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32X

Mr. S. JAMESON.

• > !

i. ^' ^

r '» I

M .\

i m

. li I .:j

!()\

i:r ■ W

THE STORY OF

[THE REAR COLUMN

OK TIIK

EM IN PASHA
RELIEF EXPEDITION

v.-a

r.v TiiK i.ATi;

JAMES S. JAMESON

NATURAI.rsT TO IIIK EXPEIKTION'

EniTF.n i;v
Mrs. JAMES S. JAMKSOV

II.7.nsTRATi:rv KV <•. WHYMPKR FROVl TMK AUTHor's <.Rir.rNAI.

SKETCm-.S

WITH NKW MAP AM. I AC SIMILE LKTTI-R KKOM TU'I'IJ TIB

NATURAI, HISTORY APPKMUX

BIRDS, BV R. R. BOWDLER SHARPE, K. Z. S.

COLEOPTERA, by h. w. bates, k. r. s.

LEPIDOPTERA, RHOPALOCERA and HETEROCFRA

BY OSBERT SALVIN, F. R. S., F. DU cane GonSf AN, F. R. S.,
H. DRUCE, F. I.. 3.

f^uthori^ed Edition

TORONTO .
ROSE P U B E I S MI N G CO M V A N V (Ltd.^

Entered aciording to Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year one thousand
eight hundred and ninety-one, by The National Publishing Company, at tht
Department of Agriculture.

TRODUCTIO]

riniog Stan
Tippu-T
.Stories i
Stanley i
big rifle.

I -I

|>ma. — Ango-
Congo da ]
slave-drivi
doing real
chief. — I
settling a
meut of
Bteamers.-

CONTENTS.

VASX
lilBT 0? IlXTTSTRATION" , . ix

Bditob'8 Notb xiii

PRKFACE XV

IvrKooccxion xxvii

year ons thousand
ng Company, at iht

CHAPTER I.
EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS.

Bining btanley una Othcers of the Expedition. — Z-inzibar.—
Tippu-Tib. — War between Soudanese utid Zan^ibaris. —
Stories about Tippu-Tib. — Cape Town. — Buying dogs. —
Stanley refuses carrier for Jameson's collecting-things and
big rifle. — Banana Point

CHAPTER II.

DIARY.— JOURNEY UP THE CONGO.

1887.— March 19th to April '30th.

la. — Ango-Ango. — Mpalaballa Mission Station. — March to
Congo da Lemba. — Banza Manteka. — Day's march resembling
slave-driving. — Kuilu River. — March to Vombo. — Stanley
doing rear-guard. — Bartlelot sent on with Soudanese. — Sick
chief. — Lutete. — Kindness of the missionaries. — Stanley
settling a row. — Inkissi River. — Thief. — Stanley's punish-
ment of chiefs. — Off to shoot hippo. — Difficulty about
steamers. — Kinshassa. — Ward joins the Expedition . .

COA'THNTS.

I I

CHAPTER III.

THE rPPEll CONGO.

May ]i<t to June 7th.

Start up th« Uppor Congo. — -SoiTicry on tho Pool. — Spiders' webs.
— Mswata. — liula Matadi. — Man proposes, and Ood disposon.
— liolobo. — Buffalo hunt. — Jameson is informed that ho is
to be loft at Yambuya. — Looting?. —Lukulela. — Scenes with
Stanley.— Equator Station. — Dine with Mr. (ilave. — Uranga.
— Ban{»ala. — lloussas oaten by natives. — Eover. — Upoto. —
Stanley's distrust of his officers .. ..

CHAFrER IV.

OCCUPATION OF YAMBUYA.

June S(h to July 31«<.

Letter to Mrs. Jameson. — Pass burning villages. — Arrival at Aru-
wimi River. — Conical-shaped huts. — Occupation of Yambuya.
— Arrival of the Henry Z^etjc/.— Stanley's letter of instruc-
tions. — lie-packing bales for Erain. — Barttelot made " blood-
brother" with native chief. — llations for .six months. —
" Beggars must not be choosers." — Stanley's departure. —
Building boraa. — Extraordinary flight of butterflies. — Palaver
with natives. — "Collecting" captives. — Natives capture Oman.
— Woman escapes. — Uselessncss of chiefs. — Oum-copal

CHAPTER V.

YAMBUYA CAMP.

July 21 ih to December ,'31»<.

Letter to Mrs. Jameson. — No news of Tippu-Tib. — Promise to
protect natives. — lleported arrival of Ti])pu's men. — Return
of deserter from Stanley's party. — His statement. — Arrival

of the

— Eina

Arabs

village.

and Wi

them p

by Tip,

wrcstliri

-Retin

Selim li

uiipoiiiti

p'turn.-

sessed b

—The J

coming

.\rabs ti

med stei

Tliree di

Day.-P

hv Year's Da

and Jume

oracles au

deserters.

Venusea.-

river. — \V

entire fore

Mahommc

death anc

among th

Anniversa

natives. —

tared Aral

COyTKSTS.

rk«

lidors' webs.
0(1 disposes.
, that he is
Sccnca witl>
0.— Urtinga.
. — Upoto. —

• • • •

of the StanUiff. — Haid on the natives by Tippii- Tib's pooplo.

l-'inal dt'purturo of'thc Stanley. — Kirst visit of Tippu-Tib'K

Arabs to Yiinibuya Camp. — iJoiiny orosscs rivrr to native

yilla„e_ .\.b(hjlliih punished for stoalin^r an axr. -Jameson

and Ward start for Stanley Falls. — Natives «ttfir to mak»>
tliem princes. — Yalisula. — Arrival at the Falls. — Uecoived
bv Tippu-Tib. — He explains non-arrival of men. — Native
wrcstlin^-raatfh. — Jameson makes 'I'ippii present of bi<; ritle.
-Return to Yauibuya. — Sotidune.s© punished for theft. —
Selim bin Mahomnied. — Arabs shoot down natives. -Dis-
aiii)ointin},' news from Tippu-Tib. -Riitnonrs of Stanley's
return. Barttelot and Troup start for Falls. — A man pos-
sessed by a devil. — Deserter's story. — iJonny's surgical skill,

Tho Major returns. — Omalia. -Report of a white matt

eoming down river. — Fresh disappointment. — Jinindiee. —
Arabs try to prevent trade M'ith natives. — Huifjari Maluim-
med steals moat from Ward's house. — Liviiifj: skeletons. —
Tliree dreams. — Ungungu esiptured by Arabs. — Christmas
Pay.— Fresh trouble between Arabs and uatives .. ..

MASK

•rival at Aru-
ofYarabuya.
jr of instruc-
mado " blood-
X months. —
departure. —
ies. — Palaver
laptureOmari.
,m-copal

. — Promise to

len. — Return

lent.— Arrival

CHAPTER VI.

TAMBUYA CAMP.
\9>%9).—Jaiiuanj Ist to Ftbrnari/ ISth.

\\v Year's Day. — Natives return with captured Arab. — Barttelot
and Jameson have palaver with natives. — Natives consult the
oracles and inspect whito men. — More reports from Stanley's
deserters. — Assad Farran sees a whale. — Visit from Arab
Venuses. — Sohurus Po</ifei beetle. — Dead bodies floating down
river. — Wretched state of Zanzibaris in camp. — One fifth of
entire force lost. — Goliath beetle. — Conversation with Selim
Mahommed. — Probable dangers to Mr. Stanley's force from
death and desertion. — Arabs attack natives. — Arabs fight
among themselves. — Natives steal canoes from Arabs. —
Anniversary of Jameson's wedding. — More raids on the
natives. — Rurgari Mahommed at large. — Natives eat cap-
tured Arabs. — Rurgari captured, and shot 177

cum'/:m's.

CHAPTKH VII.

KASSONOO.

Fehniarif \Ath /<» A/>rll '2nth,

Rinrt. with the Major f«»r Stanley KalLs. — Meet a mimhrr of men
from Kassoiim). — Siugatini. — Interview with X/i^'c. — No
newH of Stanley. — Hunting' for jranio in the jnnjil.'. — rotter
from Ynmhuya Cam|). — Shook of earth(|iiake. - AnxiouA
waiting.- Skotehinf? regarded as sorcery by ^lahoininedans.
— Fever. — Letter from Tronp. — Bnrttelot nrran-rt-s to send
JameHon to Kassongo. — Letter to Mrn. JanieHon. Start for
KasNongo. — YanKewe, — Wild-looking nativcH.- Waniaiigii
Rapids. — Meet men from Knssongo. — Kiboiige, — Jameson
writes to Stanley. — Kaprula. — Assad I'arran huntH for
onions. — Kasuku. Kindness of Arab chief. — Poisoned
arrows. — Uiba-Hiba. — Shooting hippos. — Three great ehiefa.
Tippu-Tib's names. — Dangerons natives. — Head men tear u
night attack. — Quango. — Nyangwe. — Kindness of Arabs. —
Anival at KasRongo. — Tipjiu-Tib. — Fertile country. — Salem
Masudi. — Tippu agrees to i>rovide men. — Sketching. —
Jamcpon writes to Mr. Mackinnon. — Letter to Mrs. Jameson.
— Arab custoniH. — Conversation with Tippu-Tib. — Muni
Katomba

Mil

CHAPTKIJ VTII.

EETUllX TO YAMHUYA.

A/>ril 27 til (0 June \Oth.

Start back for Yambuya. — Delay at starting-point on the river.—
Thirty-four of Tippu's men run away. — Tippu and Cameron.
— Chiefs arrive to bid farewell to Tippu-Tib. — Miresa. —
Tippu's conversation in Swahili. — Two canoes sunk. — A
narrow escape. — Assad Farrau's uselcssness. — Riba-Riba. —
Wacusu dance. — Cannibals. — Conversation with Tippu. —

inl start fi
Abdulla
• Fourteei
search o
recover
Muni S(
Theft of
of disastc
Jameson
Jameson
— Muni
gandy. —
ceed to I
— Bonny
Jameson
death
Manyema
Jameson
camped i
warns Jai
him. — An
Muni Son
Andrew Ji
to accom
c£*20,000.-
to go to B
Mr. Stanle

co.\T/:yTS.

VI I

I'AOK

Muni Sonmi. — Kibotij^o.— Chiinpuii/.toH. — Tippu's account of
a journey with StnnU-y. — StunU-y Falls. — liurttiilofa inter-
view with Tippu-Tib. — Start for Yumbuya. — Troup sends in
application to be sont home. — Hard at work roducmg loada.
— Cu|)H turu uut to b« bad. — Letter to Mrs. Jameiion . . . . 277

iihrr of men

N/i>,'<*.— No
^\,.. — Letter
e.- Anxious
ilioniinedans.
lijrcH to send
II. Start for
- Watnaiigti
50. — Janu'son
1 liuntH for
; — I'oiHonod
) great chiefs.
I men I'oar a
I of Arabis. —
ntry.— Sult-m

Skctcliin}?.—

Irs. JaracHon.

i-Tib.— Muni
2^

In the river. —
land Cameron.
-Miresa. —
les sunk. — A
[lliba-Tliba. —
lith Tippu.—

CHAFrKR IX.

THK LAST MARCH.

June \lth to Auijust Sth.

fbnl start from Yambuya Camp. — Manyemas loot the Camp. —
Abdullah's village. — Muni Somai has trouble with Many«'niaa.
.' Fourteen men desert. — Jameson returns to Yambuya in
search of missing loads. — Selim Mahommed guarantees to
recover loads and rifles. — ^[oro desertions. — Small-pox. —
Muni Somai goes in search of deserters, and is fired at. —
Theft of beads. — Trouble with the Muniaparas. — A long day
of disaster. — Major Barttelot returns to Stanley Falls, leaving
Jameson in command. — Fresh trouble with Manyi'mas. —
Jameson arrives at Ujele. — Takes over command from Bonny.
— Muni Somai utterly useless as a commander. — Mquan-
gandy. — Letters from Barttelot ordering whole force to pro-
ceed to Unaria. — War amongst head men. — A night fusillade.
— Bonny loses his way. — Muni Hamela hands over to
■{ Jameson 40,(»00 Enfield caps. — News of Major Barttelot's
i, death. — Arrival at Unaria. — Interview with three head
I Manyemas. — Jameson offers reward for Sanga's arrest. —
5 Jameson proceeds to Stanley Falls. — Finds the Manyemas
I camped in forest. — Meets Muni Somui. — Nasoro Masudi
warns Jameson that Manyemas have threatened to shoot
him. — Arrival at Stanley Falls. — Interview with Tippu. —
Muni Somai tried and convicted of desertion. — Letter to
Andrew Jameson. — Letter to Mrs. Jameson. — Uachid declines
to accompany Jameson. — Tippu volunteers to do so for
iJ20,000. — Trial and death of Sanga. — Jameson determines
to go to Bangala in order to obtain reply from Committee. —
Mr. Stanley's letter to Jameson 308

It..:

VIU

CONTENTS.

! il

CHAPTER X.

LAST SCENES. ^^

August 9th to Auijiigt \Sth.
I-ast Journey. — Mr. Ward's diary. — Death 361

— • Portrait of i

Wl^te or S(
Slate Girl

Appendices I.-XI 377-391 Peer's Feti.^

Facsimile of Agreement written by Mr. Jameson forms Bo|ia

Appendix IX. A^o-Ango

Facsimile of Tippu-Tib's letter faces translation on page 391. ^^^*^" ^^"*

Nipive Justi
Natueal-Histort Appendix . . 392-45:i^ive Meth

I^v War I

Explanation ov Map ok Upper Congo 453-4r);_#* .. ,

lra|gram ot >.

Map o*" RiVBU Congo, from Stanley Folia to Kassongo (end of voZwWf^jHftd of Nat

Ki|amouth
Fiiherman's
Tattooing
Slields
l^|tive of Vi
Nitive ViUaj
^tive Chief
Sifears and S
ttooing
trenched (
lids, from

i(i

Sitor Pot, 1
|tivc Jar
^aku Box
Imhuya, —
iu of Entr
kl and Mm
Itajabu

llltive Drinl
lef's (jirav(

Stlnlev Falls

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PASI

• • • • a • Ob|

PAOB

Portrait of the late James S. Jameson Frontispia-e

Wl||tc or S(juare-mouthed Rhinoceros (Rhinoceros simus) . . xii

Slave Girl {)

.. .. 377-391 P«#r's Fetish 10

lesou forms ^^^'^ ^ ^

Awo-Ango 12

'D page 391. Milsioii Koad near Alpalaballa, 14

Nliive Justice 22

. . o92-45lK||ive Method of Bird-catching 23

AiiQ -i.-lwv ^^'ar Horn 34

giam oi Spiders Webs . . . . 36

JO (end of vo/M»ir)Hipid of Native of Mswata 37

Kiramouth . . . 40

Jigherman's Hut , . 40

Tattooing 58

Shields 5S

Jfttive of Upoto , 59

Native Village GO

Native Chief in top hat (52

S^ars and Shield (Jt>

Tiftooing GO

Entrenched Camp, Main Street G9

Bipids, from the Camp 80

l4l 84

TH^titer Pot, Yambuya 85

Nitive Jar 92

"Wataku Box 9G

Yinibuya. — View looking down river from Entrenched Camp 98

Pl|ii of Entrenched Camp, Yambuya 101

Bell and Musical Instrument lOG

Matajabu m

Native Drinkiug-bowls 112

Cmef 8 (jrave, Yaweeko 117

S^nley Falls 121

.;l

X UST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

A Champion I'Dliimmer

Singatiiii V2: i^ba-La

Elephant's Head II]; "jjLpu.Tib

Yambau V.l. yf^nmn

Selim bin ^[ahommcd 13t «, ijotbing

A Native of the Upper Congo 14^ jfgtive Wr

Sucking-Fish ^-^ Ofle of Ti

Yambiiya Palisade 15: Longa-I.011

J'attern on inside of Dish I'l ]|uni Somj

Native Stool, lambuya H ^ggjnjoiic

starving Zanzibari 16' gnuch of

"War-Knife, Upoto 1^' A If e\v W

Native Method of Bird-catching 17' ly^er Seen

Mr. Jameson, drawn by H. Ward 17; Ji|jor Bart

My Home 17f ^gram of

Tattooing 18t ^^^ of I

€owrie Head-dress 19' j^.,noe Jo

War-Knife from Lumami River 2(ii tmL House

Wataku Pottery 2<i: rgL Last J(

Tattooing 20> Motograph

A Glimpse across Aruwimi Iliver 20i I^tive Vase

Small War-Knife -1 T|ttooing

Slave Girl '2\: Tj|ir-Xmte

:My Friend " Masiidi " 21; '

"Mashukulu" 2)1

*' Curry-Eyes " '22'

A Savage taking his ease 2'1

My Bow Paddle 22>

Wamanga Kapids 2(^1

Kibonge 28:

Native of Wamanga . . . 23'

*' A long shove, and a strong shove, and iip she goes '' . . . . 23*

" And dotvii she comes wifh a run " 23^

Knife from Kassongo 24)'

*'Lukutula" 24:'

Wagania Village, near Kassongo 24^

Landing-place, Kassongo 2o(

Double Drum, and Striker 25:

Copper Money 25:

Kassongo 25.-

Road to Ujiji 26<

Native of Unvanembi 2()!

LIST OF rLLUSTliATIONS.

PAr,i

• • •

immer and Dancer of Quemba

Lamba-Lamba

'^l T^pu-Tib

^•' Wagania Huts

•• Nothin{» like Independence "

13'

Native Woman in Market . .
One of Tippu-Tib's Gun-bearera
■^ Longa-].()nj!:a

' Muni Sitmai

AaBiniciu'

^^ Bunch of Plantains . . . .
" A Kew Way of Catching Chickens

^'' Rl^er Scene " ' ' ' "

|jor Barttelot seated on the old Drum

^gram of line of March

bive of Ui)j>cr Congo

^anoe Journey

House in which Mr. Jameson died at Bangala

fe Last Journey

jotograph of Grave

Itivo Vase

.- S'T!-;

-^ viar-Kniie

21; I

211
22'
2t
22>
231
28;
23:

23>

23^

24:

24:'

24?.

2o( ,

2o:

'Kv

2(i:

PA(JK

270

271

274

27G

277

279

281

283

295

297

299

304

308

309

322

354

367

370

372

374

37H

452

455

■M

|i ':

WhITK or SQUARE-MOliHED lilllNOCl'.KOS.

[Thf above was mounted, together with the larger portiou of the late
Mr. J. S. Jauiesuu's Collection, bv Air. Kowlaiid Ward, FZ.S.]

^HEsr Ic
j^ation ;
interest I
fecentlv
^irable
tiheir orig

yy fature rc(

In the
idvantage
brothcr-ir

•i

I I have
frho sealc(
papers wh
iBveral in
lolume.
jnder so
liosc last

I wish I
[usband's
ly pre pari
Lppeiidict

To Mr.
jr a sket
lis verv >

EDITOR'S NOTE.

/■•

^8.

^iou of the late
ird, FZ.S,i

ESE letters and diaries were not originally intended for pub-
lication ; but it has been thought that they may be read with
interest by many, and that, having regard to the aecusations
lecentlv made against the leaders of the Rear Colunm, it is
cfesirable that they should be published in what is practically
their original form, with only such alterations as their private
nature required.

/ In the preparation of this work, I have throughout had the
Idvantage of the constant advice and sympathetic help of ray
Irother-in-law, Mr. Andrew Jamkson.
•■?

I have received much kindness from Mr. Herbkrt Ward,
|rho sealed and sent home those of Mr. Jameson's diaries and

Sapers which he brought with him to the coast, and gave me
jveral interesting sketches of his own for insertion in this
tolumc. A still deeper debt of gratitude is due to him for the
jnder solicitude with Avhich he nursed rav husband duriuir
hose last hours at Bangala.

I wish further to express my hearty thanks to several of my
husband's friends who have rendered me valuable assistance
ly preparing the scientific parts of this book, contained in the
ippendiccs.

To Mr. R. BowDLER Sharpe, P.Z.wS., T am indebted both
Jbr a sketch of Mr. Jameson's career as a naturalist, and for
|is very valuable paper on the birds of the Aruwinii ; and

I J

XIV

EDirOli\S yOTB.

to Messrs. H. W. Bates, F.R.S., Osbert Salvin, F.R.S
F. DuCane Godman, F.K.S., aiul Hekhekt Druce, P'.Z.S., n,
thanks are most deservedly due for the care they have bestowr
upon tlie Entomological portion of the Appendices. It
a matter of deep regret that only a remnant of the collti
tions made by Mr. Jameson on the Aruwimi ever reached rt
hands.

The Rev. J. M. Rouwell has kindly rendered the translatio
of the Arabic letter from Tippu-Tib, and the Rev. Canon J. ,;
Carmichael, LL.D., has merited my warmest thanks for li;
valuable help.

Finally, I would acknowledge the artistic skill with whic
Mr. Charles Whymper has reproduced the spirit of m
hushand's sketches, and the attention and courtesy shown a
throughout by Mr. R. H. Porter in the publication of thi
book.

ETHEL JAMESON.

Dereoiber i2th, 18801

"Goo
Ifltt
Wh(
'Twf
But
Robi
And

N|ver was
tli^n in the
ettly life w{

h|^e striven

asion off

lost his

family j

e scope

work wi

y with

rwhelmi

ch he 1

ought t

gment £

etfulnei
rder are

, by a 1

Salvin, F.R?
>RucE, F.Z.S., n,
ley have bestowf
)pendices. It
lit of the collei
ever reached m

?d the translatio
Rev. Canon J. ,;
it thanks for li

skill with whif
le spirit of m f
(urtesy shown a |
iblication of thi

JAMESON.

PREFACE.

"Let therk br licjht."
(Mr. Stanley's motto for 'In Darkest Africa!)

" Good name, in man and woman, dear my lord,
Ifl the immediate jewel of their souls :
Who steals my purse, steals trash : 'tis something, nothing ;
'Twas mine, 'tis his, and has been slave to thousands ;
But lie, that filches from me my good name,
Robs me of that which not enriches him,
And makes me poor indeed."

NivER was the truth of these lines more vividly illustrated
thin in the case of the writer of this Diary. The dream of his
early life was to add his name to the long roll of those who
have striven for some good and useful object. At length tlie
occasion offered itself, as he believed, in the Expedition in which
he lost his life ; to join it he sacrificed his wealth, his home,
bi| family joys and comfort, to live " laborious days,'^ and find
sd|ae scope for the pent-up energies within him. He went to
hii work with a strong zeal and lofty sense of right, did his
dpy with unselfish heroism in the face of treacheries and
oHlprwhelming difficulties, and died a martyr to the cause for
wlich he had so nobly laboured. What is his reward ? He
i||sought to be made the scapegoat of his Commander's ill-
JMgment and neglect ! Charges of disobedience, disloyalty,
fol^etfulness of promises, desertion, cruelty, cowardice, and
milrder are brought against him, on the authority of discredited
lilSTs, by a man who is driven to his wits* end to sustain his

phi: FACE.

i! I

reputation against serious imperative aeeusations. The cliar •?■
are hrouglit against Jameson wlien he is in his grave, when "®^^ "
common usage of humanity suggests silence, and when a n •xainiiin
of a noble and lionourablo east of nature would altogct^*;^"'"!'
prefer to lie under an unjust suspicion rather than asperse ; **py _
defame the voiceless dead. This, however, is not the course wli**^*'^ '"
Mr. Stanley has followed. Lest any tinge of discredit sli()**'''^F^^^
rest on his ow n fame, he has striven to destroy that of otiiers «**"** \ycvo. i
are powerless to reply. Upon his remarkable Expedition i flt'**('>'ve(
Central Africa there rests one dark blot — the disastrous fati I
his Rear-Guard, and Mr. Stanley is not a man to admit that 'f '^' -^
can make mistakes : no blame of any sort can be allowed to s . ^^ *^ ' '
his record; if the Rear-Guard was wrecked, it was, of eou'*^'^^'*'' ''.'
because his skilful plans and careful orders were neglected l^Jb^ ' '
disobeyed; no statement, however desperate and imaginary, v^^
be kept back if only it serve to sustain his egotistical denia'
upon the credulous admiration of his readers ; and so, apparer
unconscious of the possibility of contradiction, and fully c
scions of the fact that the men whom he defames are dead,'
casts the whole weight of blame upon their helpless heads. "^^
first answer to Mr. Stanley's charges comes from Captain \V,..
Barttclot ; and it is a crushing one. His reply to this :
Hood of malevolent gossip as wicked as it is unprovcn, in \vl
good care is taken to make the least serious charges aga
the living, the gravest and most defamatory against the dca
The amount of reliance that can be placed upon Mr. Stanl.
accuracy is an easy question to determine. He suffers c,
abnormally from that shortness of memory which is, accord;
to a well-known proverb, said to be characteristic of a ccxii
class of people. Thus, on November 8th, 1890, he dc|
the truth of statements respecting the Rear-Guard made)
himself in a book published in the month of June of
self-same year. In Volume I. of 'In Darkest Africa,' |
478, after giving a history of all the information he ct^
got from Mr. Bonny, he says, " I have never obtained {m^
light from Mr. Bonny, though at every leisure hour it
a constant theme " (and indeed, from all accounts, it
pears that Stanley spared no pains to get from him alL

c heard
ninety n

y ncv{'»'

ioual or

z has n

niljcr st(

tanlev lu

•

iiig all m

sertcd t

the state

Id him

s, then

t, jmblis

;s not th

nt of till

[•s, given i:

On the

pablv fixc(

hs that h

mdav, 0(

, in Aug!

Mr. Sti

Mideninat

Ired bv liii

PliKFACR.

XVll

on«. The cliar v , . . • p ir i i t c i i. »•

nn^^ Tn the hrffinniiif; of Vol. II. wc find an nrcount ot

is grave, wncn"""''" ,. .^ c t *i • i.

1 .u , he fxaniinatioii ot witnesses trom amongst the snrvivors ol

' ^" H lt\!.^»« Camp at Yamhnya, and the eonelnsions arrived at are
wou { a "b^", /^ stated— the deaths at Yanil)\iya were due to th«»

.laniicr in which tlie men cooked their food, among th(
ot the course w 1*^7* , ■ ■ 1 xi 11

P ^^ vx 1 lembers of the garrison there were many thieves, and punish-
of discredit slio"^^" , , • <i- * 1 i. ^^i

1. .1 lenti were numerous, hut were never mfiicted except on those
'thatoiotliersv ^ , , iii.i- • ti i.i u r

■ho deserved them. All this appears in the month of June

le hxpedition 1 ^j,^^^^^ Cai)tain Walter IJarttelot's hooic is puhlished, and

e disastrous ja''j^j,^,j,^^ jn„st needs mend ^is hand, and so on the 8th of
in to admit *''"'f^X,|,^.,. 'iHOO, he comes forth with fresh allegations against
be allowed to s . &L^^^^^ ,^,^(1 t^is a tale quite different from that which he had

, it was, of eon

vere neglected
and imaginary,
sgotistical denia ■
and so, apparei
:ion, and fully c
sfames are dead'
elpless heads "^^

y puhlished in * In Darkest Africa.* His first statement

the November story easts the gravest doubt upon it, for he

c heard it all at Yambuva in August 1S88 (Banalva. a

ninety miles from Yambuya, must be what is meant, as Mr.

jcv never returned to Yambuya, but the mistake, whether

ional or not, is very convenient for him, and, curious to

2 has not yet corrected it). A considerable part of the

. -„ oiS}n»')cr story comes from the lips of Mr. Bonny, but if

om Captam \\,..^J^_^^^j^^. j^^^^.^ j^ ^j, -^j ^^ugust 1888, how could he, although

reply to this „Mi„g jifj mention of it in ' In Darkest Africa/ write that he

unproven, in ^vl^^^^.^^^^ ^ji^^^j^^ ^^H 1,^. j,,^^! 1^^^^,.,! f^.^^ ^jj, 13^,,^^^ ^ ^^.^^^

•US charges "ga-i^l,^. statement published November 8th, 1890, that whicli
against the dca^,^^ j^.^^ ^^ j^^^^^^^ j,^ August 1888, or wa • not? If
upon Mr. Stank M^ ^j^^^^ ^^^ ^,^^^,^ statement by Mr. Stc. .ey 011 the
He suffers e^^^ published in ' In Darkest Africa,' was not true ; if
Is not the storv told him in 1888, then Mr. Stanley's
;nt of the real reasons which led him to condemn liis
s, given in the most public and final manner, is absolutely
On the second horn of this dilemma Mr. Stanley is
ibly fixed, for Mr. Bonny, in his statement to the ' Times,'
es that he told these things to Stanley for the first time
nday, October 26th, 1890, and not at Banalya, on the
, in August 1888. That is to say, the only justification
Mr. Stanley, when ]mt on his defence, produces for
ndemnation of his officers in 1888, is hearsay evidence
edbv him in 1890.

which is, accorii;

eristic of a ccri
1890, he dci

ir-Guard. madci

h of June of :

kest Africa,' p

jrmation he c(

r obtained luni,

;isure hour it
1

accounts, it ^
from him ali,

:i1

i.M

xvm

PR i: FACE.

It is wortli wliilc to expatiate a little upon tliis bold atteni],- t^L- „- „

^fr. Stanley's to mislead ])eoplc into believing that the evi(l( J| . i

upon which he grounded his charge was obtain(ul ti'()iir^.i /• ,

ireneral inciuirv into the matter made bv him upon the Cdi «

^ 1 , .1 In resp(

in 1888, and not upon the particular evidence of three wituc x^ , x

obtained in 1M)(). For instance, he talks on this wise when u - • lu

Doyn III In
troducing to public notice his charg(»s of November 8th, 18!)() . . .

"^ ' m Ins owi

"The sentence ot my report with which Mr. Uarttelot ti xvj- j, *

lault, and in which 1 censure the eommander of the li i 1 i ,• i

n© pnoiisl

Column, was written in August 1888, two days after I had ri^ r

Mr. Bonny and the emaciated remnant of the Rear Colli:

On learning then the details of M'hat had transpired duriii},'

absence, I wrote that the irresolution of tlie otKcers, the iici;

of their jjromises, and their indift'erence to tin; written ortlc

gave them, had caused this Moful collaiist;. You ask iiu

justify that censure. It will i)robably bo the best way, in o:

to satisfy any legitimate interest in this question, to tell

story as I heard it at YambHi/a, because in that way the pu

will better understand the shocking ctfect it had on me r

hasteniny to their relief, I was met by the follawiny

lations'^. And here comes the point. You will find in tin

of my book * In Darkest Africa,' even in its abridged foriu,

the men of the Hear Column came forward to present \^

complaints; and much of the following informatiim I obta

from Mr. lioiiny, the Zanzibaris, the Arabs, and the .M

yeraa." Then follow the statements which Stanley says v

at that time made to him, the very first of them beiiijiLJ

j)oisoning siory, with which Mr. Bonny's most exciting st

ment has since made us familiar. But alas 1 for the ii|

racy of Mr. Stanley, Bonny informs us that he told Sta

that tale on Sunday, October 26th, 1890, two years and

months after the date which Mr. Stanley fixes for its k

recital. The fact is that Stanley deliberately endeavour

lead the public to believe that the evidence upon whuij.

bases his foulest charges against the oHicers of the Rear-(iji

was obtained by him in August 1888, when, beyond yea or^^

* The italics are luy own.— A. J.

jar that c

ini at Y^ai

Stanley*

not St

I, and Be

e mouth

is absol

He ^

|dy ex pre
n tacts, 1
es of hii

that he
vsses amc
s, Zanzib

ll < ,\:

PliHI'Wr'E.

XIX

his bold ftttonip- jjjjg^p^ ^,^,^ it ^\\\ Ortobcr 1S{)(), so far as Honiiy is ronrernod,

; that tluM'vidi n„j ^\ssa(l Farraii oulv made his statement to him in Cairo in
obtained fVo, j|^^.,, ^,j. j,,^ ^j^,„^. ,.,;,,,

J upon the (.01 |^ respect oi" the eaniiibal story, a reader of Mr. Stanley's
of three witnc gtujcment of Noveml)er Hth, IH'JO, wonhl conchide that at Vain-
tins wise wlieii j^^y^^ j^^ ISHH, an eye-witness of the seene drew np a statement
mber Mth, 18J)(i .^ his own handwriting in the presenee of \vitnesses; that
Ay. liartteh)t ti ^y^ statement was shown to Mr. StanU;y tlicre, and is the one
iider ot the •' j,^ p„|)ijsl,os ; that the evidence taken on the snhjcuit by the
lys after I had q^^^ ].',.(,(, gtatc authorities was also shown to him tliere,
^''^\'^*''^'' ^"'"an^ that these facts were the principid reasons for the letter
lispired durin- ^y^j^ j^^. ^^.^^^.^ j,p ^^.,.„tc to Jameson, l)nt whieli lias never
ofhccrs, the lU'L,' ^.jj^ been seen, or even heard ol, until now mentioned by
he written ord. j^ ^^^,,1,.^. i,in,sdf. On the lOth N.)vcnd)er, 1890, however, !ic
Yon ask ""puJlislies another statement, in whieli he tells uh that Bonny
best way, m 'i toll him the story, that a Zanzibari who had been at Stanley
uestion, to tell j,^^ corroborated it, and that lie was told the Con<?() Fre-
hat way the piig^p authorities mtcnded arrestinj;- Jameson. Where lias the
t had on me " gj^^vitness «?one to, and the evidence taken by the authorities
he followhuj t^^^y^ j,^. ,.^.]ij^^ji „,j before? The eye-witness in this second
will find in tlugj^.,,n.jjt j^ revealed in Assad Farran, and the evidence taken
lb

ridged ioriii, |j^j,^. ^jj^ authorities dwindles to the story tc^ld him about

to present u
mation I obta
3s, and the .M

r intentions. But how do the two statements look when
together? Was not the first a plain attempt to make it
ar that evidence obtained at a subsequent date was tendered
lini at Yambuya, and does the second statement not show
Stanley's real " witnesses " were Bonny and Assad Farran ?
not Stanley publish the story Assad Farran tells him in
I, and Bonny vouch for the truth of it, only placing it all
e mouth of Jameson himself?

is absolutely necessary to nail Mr. Stanley to names and

He wants the public now to believe, contra his own

dy expressed statement, contra the inexorable lo"ic (jf

n tacts, that he was acquainted in August 1888 with all the

es of his outrageous indictment of November 8th, 1890,

)eyondyeaor^^|P]j^t he then obtained the proofs of them from various

vi^sscs among the survivors of the Uear-Guard, from Bonny,

^rw)s, Zanzibaris, and Manyemaj and that, on the iufoniiation

Stanley says Vl
)f them beiii!i;i
ost exciting st
as ! for the iiii|
t he told Sta:^
wo years and

fixes for its
ely endeavour

e upon whiLi
3f the Rear-(i

I Jill

rUHFACE.

obtained in tliosr twodayNof in(|iiirv, lir uioto liis condcnmati
(if his otticorM.

" I liad II frrandiiintlicr, hIic hud n (loiiKt-y,

And wln'ii that doiikfy litnlinl Hit in tin' fnrn,
His I'aco was hikI, mul you ari« nail, my public."

In the ontlmsiasm of an cvancHccnt horo-worshij) the \h\\
pnhhc sinks occasionally for a time below th(! level ol
nvenifie sa<;acity It pazes with a sweet confiding aU'ecti
ii|)on the mascniinc idol of its temporary adoration ; but w
to hitn who would presume upon the constancy of that loi
it is too fickle and fastidious to have time or temper
lovers' quarrels and their proverbial results. By an inevita
reaction, it is certain soon to become as suspicious and exact;
as it was once full of loud aiul intolerant confidence; the m
so, if it comes to think that there is any attempt to trifii; w
its amiable credulity. This is what Mr. Stanley will si
bcfiin to feci. The idea is already abroad that he is scekiii;:
delude the jmblic judgment, es})ecially in the way of insinuMi
that he is embarrassed by the number of his witjiesses, win
in ])oint of fact, he lias produced ])ut three — IJonny, A»
Farraii, and Saleh ben Osman, his own Zanzibar! scrva
That it is perfectly possible for Mr. Stanley to produce ni;;
more witnesses of the type of Suleh ben Osman no one i
doubt who is acquainted with the real nature of native evidii
of this description ; and if the Congo Free State authorities I
any Avish to adopt his peculiar line of conduct, it is equi |
certain the application of the "questioning" system would
attended with satisfactory results.

But in what a light does all this place the author of '
Darkest Africa'! Is it the pure lij^ht which shines rouii!
man striving to make the truth known ? or is it the baiu
gleam of those darksome shades in which Mr. Stanley tellj
a vast crop of lying is germinated ?

He deals Avith his evidence like the Irish planners of au ;il
He changes the date to suit the necessities of his case ; witli
astounding unfairness, he condemns his officers first, and ;
them afterwards. Having failed in his elforts at the time
on the spot to obtain from Bonny and the coloured witiii

fUPfieient
detteifid 1
by straini
twisting I
Janiesiiii,
moutliN, t

open the i
Never,
rions as
Ill0r(> wor

man, witi
UK of sn
Alsad I'ai
tions, is (1
ir^re only
eXJEiiniiiers
8«c'ii'tary
Deriiiott, •
ho iidmitte
n.nht M
II, that
Iceliug
om he 1
estionin^
y wantci
IThis is tl
e of th
Congo
nzibari s
credited
« not pn
.Mr. Gla
own rel
/(//<'' of
inzibaris,
raation d
e, what (1
zibari s(
s?

y;,

PJifCFACR.

XXI

lis condcninutii

fnco,

blic."

jrHliip tlio nrit
tho lovt'l ot
nnliding atVrcti
loration ; but w
ticy of tluit 1()\
ic or temper ;
Bv ail inovita
:ious Hiul cxacti
fidoucc ; the in
'iiipt to tritio u
jitaulcy will m
It lie is scckin;:
wav of insiniuiti
IS witnesses, win
IC — Jionny, A»
Zanzibar! serva
o produce ni;
man no one i
of native evidi
c autboriiies 1
uct, it is cqu.
system won 111

the author of '
shines rouiii
is it the baiu
•. Stanley tell?

aiincrs of au al
his case; witli

LTs first, and !
at tbe time
oloured witiii-

Mit pon(Vmimff)ry pvi(h'm'C njjninst tboso whom In- bad
i'rt(d and lui-^le*!, b" strove to work up a ease ii^jaiust tliem
Htrainin;.'' tbe obvious sense; and purport of bis onlers ; by
,vlntiii"' and niisrepreseutin;; tbe writin<;s of lbirtt(dot and
Jitneson, so as to eoiidemn tbem, if possible, out of tbeir own
mouths, then sileiurd for ever : and even by darinj? to break
oprn the seals upon Jameson's private diary and papers.

Never, in the history of slander, were charges so inju.
s as those levelled against the ollieers dependent upon
ire worthless testimony. It is ineomprchensible how any
ji, with the barest respect for his reputation, could make
of such instrumentH as two of Mr. Stanle\'s Avitnesscs.
nd I'arran, the prime coiu^oeter of these shameless inven-
is, is a man who (as be himself puts it) would, if bo
only (luestioned enough, "giv(! all the information bis
miners wimted ; " a man who, when be was asked by the
n-etarv of the Emin Pasha Relief (Jommittee, Mr. Mae-
rmott, why he bad told stories about the officers whi(!b
admitted were exaggerated and iiu;orreet, replied " that be
ught Major Harttelot and Mr. Janu'son had not treated hitu
11, that lie had been sent away witlamt clothes or food, and
lecliug was bad : '' and then lie added, " that when those to
oni he made bis statement on the Congo kept (juestioning,
estioning, and would not let him alone, be bad to say all
y wanted him to say.*'

This is tbe man who, in ^lareh \H\)\), first told Mr. Stanley

e of the stories which that gentleman stated he heard on

Congo in 1HS8. Nor is Saleb ben Osman, ^[r. Stanley's

nzibari servant, a more reliable witness than the pitifully

credited Assad Farran. The statement of this worthy, who

IS not pretend to be an eye-witness of anything, is translated

^fr. Glave, and is a most extraordiiuiry document, bearing

own refutation on its face. At the best it is a mere re-

yffe of what be bad beard concerning these events from

;nzibaiis, Arabs, Manyemas, and Soudanese, and if the in-

raation derived at first hand IVoui such witnesses is unreli-

e, what docs it become when filtered tii rough tbe bend of a

zibari servant two years after he had heard the tales he

Is?

\X11

piii-:FAt'i':.

\ II II

No one l;?i()ws bettor tlmii Mr. Stanley the utter uiitrib The terril
wortliiness oJ:' tlie!?c Ziinzil).'iris, and the ease with wliich they mflelilli Mah(
be made to pay anything by " questioning, questioning/' i"v;al|» care ol'
his own character is not safe in their liaiids, lor he is accii so him ])lot^
by on(^ of the tribe of ordering a live baby to be drowiicd ast even bi
the Congo {vide page 111 in Diary), and tlie Zanzibari w^'roni the Jv
made this statement had no api)arcnt motive for telling a 1 No condi
uhieh ean hardly be asserted about Mr. Stanley's most usdjrdinary hn
witness. and if reliar

Mr. Sta] ley is certainly unfortunate in being placed iiican only be
jjosition where he must stake his credit on the veracity of siihypnotic in
men as these. He lias only produced three witnesses at ; With all t
best : two of them have been j)rovcd unworthy of the sliglithas given to
belief, and the third, \\h piecr de resistance, Mr. Bonny, is ito produce a
from being as satisfactory as the cause of justice would reqiiiichai^'e that

Bonny is nn ex-sergeant of the Army Hospital Corps, aitb^.;fieglcct ^
was a paid servant of !Mr. Stanley's, who styles himself iof |pic office
employer. Our trust in his accuracy of recollectiou and il^^encd in
telligent appreciation of facts is somewhat enfeebled, when vhe||iniself a
remember that Mr. Stanley informs us how Honny told li;
that Barttelot, in view of his possii)le dtath, had left to In f^ne turn:
(Bonny) the successio in eommand over Jameson, an absuofiself-seeki
misapprehension, to say the least of it, complicated moreover a wO^^'^ *"^
a most unpleasant controversy respecting the genuineness piwudiccd i
certain orders produced by Bonny, and the alleged suppressi(ii<wressed b
of those he was bound to obey. There seems to be a ceitagwple, lovii
amount of inaccuracy about Mr. Bonny. He is unable to adluowsrvation,
to one story, even in the case of such an important ineidt^nthuliour and
that of jMajor Barttelot's murder, and varies his deseription tifli. His
it, and the cireumstances attending it, some three or four tiniiCfflfcinually i
in most vital pariieulars. But all the same, we are request* t^pimself,
to believe that Mr. Bonny is a rare being, gifted with a mrsIK*^^^^^^ ^^
pathetic attractiveness that draws towards him the innii a« the life
confidences of all those with whom he comes in contiu ^w^^ keync
According to Mr. Stanley's account, he must have been " fatlu I -Pi^^'^j" ^'
confessor" tu all in the Camp, for to him, without any «/^/'/// d^h, " wlu
confessionis, men ap})ear to have confided the darkest recoii 8hli|flld ever
and intentions of their lives. aUlthat I fe

PRE FACE.

xxni

tlic nttor uiitiib Tlic torriljlc Barttclot reveals to him his intention to poison
itli whicli they iii«!elini ^Mahomnied ; tells hira that he is getting his brother so to
estioiiing." I!v:a^e care of Tronp that he will tell no t^'^s at home; imparts
5, for he is accuso him plots to start expeditions independent of Stanley, and at
to be drowiud agt even begs of him a medical ccrtifieate and leave to retire
he Zanzibari wlra^ the J"]xpcdition !

; for telling a 1 No conditions of existence snch as those which apply to
mley's most usetjrdiaary human beings seem able to make such things credible ;
and if reliance is to be placed on this part of Stanley's case, it
being placed iiican pnly be justified by a belief in some intense magnetic or
le veracity of MihyMotic influence exercised by Bonny on those around him.
• witnesses at; ^ith all the elaboration, care, and piiblicity which Mr. Stanley
ly of the slijilithas^iven to the evidence of these three witnesses, he has failed
Mr. Bonny, is itottioduce a statement from their mouths which justifies his
ice would re(]ui:chill^e that " the Rear Column was wrecked by the irresolution,
ispital Corps, aitbiffieglcct of promises, and the indifference to written orders
styles himself iof ;^e officers he left in command of it," and he has not
collection and ilig^ened in the slightest degree the load of blame under which
feebled, M-hcn vhei|miself at present lies.
"f Bonny told li; ^:

1, had left to in (pne turns, as in search of a great relief, from this story
neson, an absu of 'ijBelf -seeking, unfairness, and deception, to the record of
ated moreover a lioble and unselfish life. It must indeed be a strongly
genuineness preudiccd mind that can read this Diary without being
Icged suppressiiBpilressed by the sense of the immediate presence of a
to be a ccitiigejftle, loving, and sympathetic nature, keen and true of
5 unable to adiu obl^rvation, quick-willed and suggestive, with a pleasant
)rtant incident huilttour and a gallant heart. A man's diary is a self-revela-
his description tioB. His true personality is as certain to present itself
ree or four tiiiiCO#inually as the refrain in a theme of music. No man lies
\\e are reciucst tov|biraself, when night after night, as his work is done, he
ted with a svi sill down to write out the story of his life from day to day;
him the inni anil the life which Jameson reveals to us in his Diary is one
•mes in coiit;ii ^^se keynote is duty, kindliness, and hard work. *' Little did
ve been '' fatlii I fhink," he writes to Mrs. Jameson a fortnight before his
lout any siyii'h d«|th, " when I spoke to you of my feelings of duty, that I
darkest recu: shflMld ever be placed in such a position as I now am, in which
all that I feel for you and for our little ones cries out against

w..

■•-■a

ii:

XXIV

PBEFACE.

1 1]

I'll

what 1 must do as an officer of tins Expedition. Witlif
word or even a sliow of weakness on my part, I could stop :
whole Expedition, which seems fated to n< jt with nothing:
reverses, and return to you. But God knows such a thou;
never entered mv heart, althoufjh I could easily defend s,
an action on my part. The first thing that flashed across •
hrain on findini; myself so placed was your father's favoiii
text, ' Know, O man, that to know and love justice and do:
thing that is right, that shall bring a man peace at the las
and you Mill see what a help every word in that verse has b(
to me now."

On the same day he writes to his brother, " Whuti
happens to me, old man, I tried to do my duty to this l)]('s
Expedition ; and many a time, when I have thought of Va.
and liome, 1 would have liked to chuck the whole thinjj
when there were pkmty of officers to take my place." A br:
resolve to go through with Mhat he had undertaken sustai:
him to the last in the face ol dreadful odds. The neglect ■,
unfairness of the Commander of the Expedition — who, us
says, 'Mt is evident takes the word of the Zanzibaris ])et
that of the white men," — the cruelty, dishonesty, treachery,;
falsehood of the Arabs with whom he had to deal, the miseia
conditions of existence growing worse from day to day,
liope deferred, the bitter consciousness that the slanderer
at work to defame his honour, — however these irons cut into
soul, they dimmed not that gallant sense of duty, which iii
touchingly displayed itself as a ruling passion, strong in dc;
when, as he breathed his last, M'ith husky voice he answered
the faintlv-heard roll of the drums, " Tliev are cominy,- ; t;
are coming. Let us stand together."

Numerous aiul suggestive also are the indications of
kindliness of heart in his anxieties about the sick people in
Camp — African and English, and the ^rief he so evidently li
at being utterly unable to give them the help they so sur
need. His pity for the natives, too, and the efPorts that l
he and Barttelot made to save them from the Arabs;
regret he expresses at the inevitable jjunishmcnts and floggii.
all indicate a kind, hel])fu1, and unselfish nature. "P

old Dcrri
cook for
has been
slowly dy
for them
preters, (
a sad, sa(
be able t
fight we
force, an(
never lea
Kiss the
safe keep

As to
their ])ost
this cont
again — "
m floggii

The Di
and unfli
working \
in his pol
obtained
Katomba
before th
louring e:
forest to
in the fa
ajiother .'
t!D pledg(
i|nfl[inchii
^d orde
when he
that he n
rose to tl
csompeten
had been
has most

PREFACE.

XXV

)edition. With r

u't, I could stop:

it with nothing 1

ws such a thoiif

easily defend si

flashed across \

ir father's favoui

s justice and do:

peace at the lay

that verse has bt

rother, " Whati
luty to this l)]o$>
; thought of tt
he whole thiii"
y place/' A hn
idcrtaken sustai;
'. The neglect i
edition — who, jb
: Zanzibaris but
csty, treachery,;;
deal, the misen
n day to day,

the slanderer
e irons cut into
t' duty, which iii
>n, strong in dct
ice he answered

are coming ; ti

indications of
3 sick people in
e so evident Iv ft
elp they so sur
efforts that Ij
11 the Arabs;
cuts and flo""!!.,
I nature. "F

old Dcrrier Moussa, a Somali,"' he writes, " who has been our
cook for the greater part of our journey, died to-day. He
has been ill for a long time. It is horril)le to watch these men
slowly dying before your face, and not be able to do anything
for them." " Poor Alf>\andcr, one of the Soudanese inter-
preters, (lied to-day ; he has been ill for a long time." " It is
a sad, sad sight to see men dying round you every day, and not
be able to put out a hand to save them. Without a single
fight we havf! lost close upon seventy men out of our small
force, and there arc many more who, I am sorry to say, will
never leave that Camp. And now good night and good-bye.
Kiss the little ones for me, and may God have you all in his
safe keeping.''

As to the Hogging, he writes — "Two sentries, who deserted
tifeir post last night, were flogged this morning. It is sickening,
|s continual flogging, but there is no help for it ; " and
lin — " Went the rounds last night. No sentries asleep, so
I flogging this morning, thank goodness."
|The Diary abounds with indications of a vigorous, capable,
0^Ci unflineliing personality. His determination and skill in
lurking with and managing the Arabs, particularly displayed
ill his politic negotiations with Tippu-Tib, by which at last ho
ojbtained the carriers he required — his interview with Muni
S^atomba at Kassongo — his ungrudging labours at Yambuya
l^fore the last start from that home of misery — his unmur-
muring endurance of toil and hunger in the march through the
srest to lianalya — his fearless return march to Stanley Falls
the Face of great dangers — his untiring eflbrts to secure
lother Arab commaiuler to come with him — his splendid offer
pledge his fortune for the sake of the Expedition — his
l^iflinching refusal to depart from the route which Stanley
id ordered him to follow — his declaration that Barttclot,
i^hen he was murdered, was carrying out Stanley's orders, and
iat he meant to do the same — all of which acts show how he
)se to the occasion of a great crisis : these are the doings of a
iS)mpetent and sagacious man, worthy of the part to which he
^d been apjjointed and of the praise of which his Connnander
IS most selfishly and ungenerously sought to rob him.

XXVl

PliKFACE.

Amidst all the toils and changes of camp-life Jameson foun
time to gratify his love of natural history and to employ li;
valuahle iH)wcrs of observation. Unhappily, a large part i
his valuable collection was lost when the camp he had jih
marched from was looted by the Arabs, in whose charge it wa
left.

There is no doubt tl»at, if he had been possessed of mm
opportunity and had his life been spared, he Avould have con
tributed largely to the scientific results of the Expedition.

All noble lives are instinct with a purpose. They read tli
secret of their destiny, and find no rest until they work it ou!
wherever it may lead, llesults they fear not, although it li
their fate, as that of many gone before, to " perish in tL
Mildcrncss."

ANDREW JAMESON.

D iblin, December iOtb, 1890.

1 1 i|

1!|

JasIes SliJ
at the Wa
Andrew J a
held agenc
great culti
and scicnti
Cochrane, '
birth of the

At a ver}
wliich were
those for tr
quite a sma
mother one
over a ma^:
She asked
hours past
wmit to lea
be a big tra

in 1807
ne*r Edinl
he always s
^)rcghori
by woods.
then iield n
developed
for all an
formed sue
Manv arc

te Jjimeson fotm
ul to employ li>
, a large part (
imp he had ju.
ose charge it Ma

ossessed of nioi
would have con
Expedition.
. They read tli
they work it on:
t, although it li
"perish in tli

INTRODUCTION.

r JAMESON.

JajIes Slioo Jameson was born on the 17tli of August, 1856,
at #c Walk House, Alloa, Clackmannanshire. His father,
Art^rcw Jameson, was a son of John Jameson, of Dublin. He
held agencies for some estates in Scotland, and was a man of
great cultivation and refinement, possessed of both literary
and scientific tastes. His wife, Margaret, daughter of James
Cochrane, of Cllen Lodge, Sligo, died a few days after the
birih of their third son, James.

At a very early age tlie tastes of the child foretokened those
trllich Avere to form the ruling interest of his after-life, viz.
those for travel and natural history in all its branches. When
q^jlte a small boy, between four and five years old, his grand-
mother once found him, at a late hour of the night, poring
over a map, which, strangely enough, was the map of Africa.
She asked him why he had not gone to bed, as it was some
hours past his usual time. " Oh, grandmamma ! " he said, " I
wjqit to learn all about these strange countries, for 1 mean to
be a big traveller some day."

in 1807 Jameson was sent to Dreghorn, a boarding-school
weir Edinburgh, under Mr. Dalgleish, of which, in after-life,
healways spoke as " an ideal school for boys.''

Prcghorn lies at the foot of the Pentland hills, surrounded
by^A\'oods. Through the beautiful ])ark flows a stream which
then held many a trout ; and here it was that Jameson first
developed those instinctive tastes for natural history, love
for all animals, and keen interest in their habits, which
formed such a marked tiait in his character, even in childhood.
Many arc the treasures which even in those early days were

"1(1

Nxvm

rxTitoDucrrox.

: :i

. v!

iipcumulatcd, and which formed the nucleus of his later valiia' At the
collection. Afn^'"- ""■

Speaking of his childhood, his aunt, Mrs. Burd, writes;. Altera
" He knew every bird and live thin*;!; in the neighbourhood ;, Desert, wlj
their habits ; and his joy and pride when he found a Rose; to the chKl
Tern is a thing not to be forgotten. I do not think he kiu meuee prej
what the word fear nieant.^' District.

He had long been anxious to [)rocure some young Choii:; cxoitenicnt
which had built their nest high up on tlu; cliffs at the bacjk Boers, whj
(rien Lodge. At last he devised a plan by laying three laddi blocking
togetlicr, and, at the risk of liis neck, succeeded in reaciii: Their latel
the nest and bringing down four little ones. He took t special de^
greatest tronble in preparing their food, making it as like wli. th6li <1'^^'"
he thought their mother would give them as possible, and evi hl^tri^'r ''
feeding them with a match which he shaped like her bill. II ^h a si'('(
kept them in his own room, so that he might hear them ti t»t mght
moment they cried for food, which was usually about five in ti ^ff^'^^ ^
morning, and he refused to go on a shooting expedition to whit jBcucoum
he had long looked forward, until one of his cousins promise *W^^ ■ ^^^
faithfully to take charge of and feed them at the same early lioi; Jimeson rl
He kept them for about three weeks, putting them, in the da *^ reaclied
time, in a pheasant-box on the lawn. But, alas ! on the va uwrnet \\ <
night of his return from his shooting, a Bedlington naiiu Havrng
" Pcachem " got at the box ar.d killed them all ! The boy v.; leaving Ze
dreadfully grieved, and retired to his own room for some tin; wfi*t^ "^' ^'
When asked by his uncle whether he had " given Pcacheiii calc^^''^'^^'^
good licking," he rejdied, "No; why should I hurt the pu
brute and make him miserable as well as myself? It's on
his nature, and he knew no better.''

Small traits of this kind were an early indication of the kii
and gentle nature which, in later life, so fascinated all \\[
knew him.

Upon quitting Drcghorn, he went to the Internation.
College at Isleworth, until, in 187.'5, he began reading for tl
irmy. This, however, he abandcnicd in 1877, when he staiu
an the first of his travels to Ceylon, Calcutta, Singnpore, :iii
Borneo. From Borneo he returned with a fine collcctioa i
birds, butterflies, and beetles.

nui, wli
e !Matal
anting
endly
bsequei
Mr. St

!i''

■•W-r--

INTIiOIH^CTIOy.

XXIX

i his later valiin'

*. liurd, writes;,
eighbourliood ;,
found a Rose:;
lot think ho Icik

(! young Choii;;
i's at the hack
f\n\r three laddt
3eded in reaciii;
?s. He took t
ng it as like wIk
jossible, and evi
like her bill. Ij
it hear them tl
' about five in ti
ipeditionto wlii^
cousins promise
B same early lion
them, in the dai
as ! on the va
'dlington naim
The boy v,;
for some tin:
iven Peachciu
I hurt the po
^self? It's on:

ition of the kii.
iciiiated all wl,

le Internatioii.

reading for tl
when he staiti

Singiipore, an
ue collect ioii ^.

-tliis time to South

Jt the close of 187.S he went out agaui,-
i.j,,_i„ search ol" big game.
After a few Mceks' hunting on the ])orders of the Kalahari
D0irrt, wlicrc he obtained excellent sport in the vehlt belonging
to^ie chief Montsioa, he returned to Potehefstroom, to eom-
nw|cc preparations for a more extensive trip into the Zand)esi
Diiirict. The town was at this time in a general state of
eX<^tcnicnt, owing to the presence of sonu' 700 disaffected
Bc^rs, who, fully armed, were camped just outside the town,
blS^l^i'"}-' ^^'^' ^'"^'^ ^" Pretoria, and stopi)ing all the mails.
T&r latest act of audacity had been to seize and detain a
sttfcial despatch sent by Colonel Tucrker, of the HOih Regt.,
(luaitercd in the town, to Sir (xarnct AVolseley. Upon
Hf of this, Jameson at once offered to ride to Pretoria
h a second despatch. His offer was accepted, and he started
It ni'dit bearing the important document, with power to shoot
rone who might attempt to detain him. The next morning
[encountered a party of about sixty Boers, who stopped and
iselv (juestioned him. Havijig allayed their suspicions,
lesou nxle on, making no })ause and taking no rest until
reached J^retoria, and safely delivered the despatch to Sir
irnet "Wolselcy.

f Having completed his outfit, he now started for the interior,
iving Zcerust as the last civilized town on his route. From
\rc he trekked along the (rreat Marico River, \> here he had
Iccllent fishing, up to the Crocodile or Limpoj)o River,
jeting with large game in great abundance. At Shoshong
was joined by Mr. H. Collison, who had been hunting in
frica for four years ; and at this place he also heard from
[r. F. C. Selous, the well-known African hunter, who pro-
bed to join the party at (iubuluwayo. Pushing on, therefore,
I'ough the " (Jreat Thirst-Land," Jameson arrived at Um-
\m\\, where he made aequaintanee with Lo Bengula, King of
Me ^Matabelcs, who received the travellers with great cordiality,
fanting them willing permission to hunt in his country. His
lendly bL-haviour towards Jameson was on this, as on all
^bsequent occasions, unvarying.
^^Mr. Selous having joined them, they now took lea\e of the

' 1,

XXX

L\T/iOlJUCTION.

Kiiiji;, wlu) sent witli tlicni an iiuhuia to guard their waggons
and property ; and the party proceeded into Mashona Land,
wlicre they obtained splendid shooting.

In July, Selous and Jameson started for six weeks' hunting
in the Fly Country, and were able to demonstrate the junction
of the two rivers, the Uuivuli and the Umnyati *.

In ecmnexiou with this shooting-expedition oF 1870, the
following letter from J. M. Sadleir, Esq., will not be without
interest to the reader : —

Eftstoii Nt'ston, Tow'cester,
November 1'9, ]S!)0.
My dear Jamkson,

.... I nnist say I can never forget your brother's
kindness to me in Africa. I send you the particulars.

In the month ol' April, 1879, I was travelling from Durban,
Natal, up country. I was taken ill with dysentery at Colenzn.
AVhen I had been bad for a fortnight, and was lying in a shed
attached to the hotel, your brother, who was trekking to the
Zambesi, found me. He at once went back to his camp and
broiiglit Dr. Sk(.'t('hly, one of his party, who attended to me
for some days, till I could be moved. Jameson then had a
hammock slung for me in one of his waggons, and took me up
country with him, till I was strong enough to go back to
Durban. To his treatment and oarc alone I believe 1 owe my
life.

Very sincerely yours,

J. M. Sadleir.
Andrew Jameson, Esq.

In the spring of 1881, Jameson returned to England,
bringing with him a fine collection of large heads, as well as
birds, butterflies, beetles, flowei's, and grasses.

In the following year he went out to the Rocky Mountains
with his brother, Mr. John A. Jameson. In the Crazy
Mountains, and near the upper waters of the Musselshell in
Eastern Montana, they shot several bear, wapiti, buffalo, deer,
and antelope.

*• See ' I'rocuediugs of tlu; lioyal Geographical Society,' Juiie 1881
F. C. Selous.

' >"•'?" "-..■V'wt.^

J NT no DUCT I ON.

xxxl

In 1883 they wont tliroujjfh the Crow llosorvation, Afoiitana
Territory, on to tlio North Fork of tlio Stinkinjr \Vat(;r, in
search of sheep, of which they obtained thirty-six, besides
several ])uflalo, bears, wapiti, &c.

In 1881. Jameson travelled throuj^h Spain and Algeria; and
upon his return in 1885 he married Kthel, daughter of the late
^lajor-General Sir Henry Marion Durand, ll.E., K. C.S.I, , C.U.

Two years later, in January 1887, the attention and sym-
pathy of all England were attracted to the Expedition for tlio
relief of Emin Pasha — Gordon's worthy lieutenant and friend —
wliieh was on the eve of departure for Africa, under the com-
mand of Mr. H. M. Stanley. The scheme was one which
could not fail to appeal most strongly to Jameson's chivalrous
nature; moreover, it promised almost boundless scope for the
exercise of his special talent for natural history research. He
at once volunteered his services to Mr. Stanley, who readily
accepted them.

The following words are taken from a letter written on
January 22, 1887, by him to Lady Durand : —

" . . . . Whv all the ambitions of mv lifetime should have
been concentrated at this time, with a seemingly prosperous
issue, I know not ; but I assure you that I did not accept
the position without weighuig well all there was for and
against it. Ever since my childhood I have dre:imt of doing
some good in this world, and making a name which Avas more
than an idle one. My life has been a more or less selfish
one, and now springs up the opportunity of wiping off a little
of the long score standing against me. Do not blame me too
much. ... I must thank you for your generous kind-hearted
wishes. . . ."

A sadder tale than that contained in these diaries has seldom
been told; for, strive as he would to lighten its hopeless
misery, even Jameson's bright and dauntless spirit was weighed
down by the wretchedness of the position in which he was
placed; and, had it not been for the sincere friendship which
arose between Edmund !Musgrave Barttelot and himself, the
talc would have been sadder still.

if.

■!'■
; t ,■

• !i

XXXll

LsriinDurrioN.

The letters aiirl (liiiiios ^rapliienllv (Icscribe liia share in tho
Kxpcdition, spcjikinj;' more poucrl'ully than any paneffyric eonid
(h) for tlie sinj^Uvliearted, loyal, and eouraj^eoiiH spirit in which
lie met all (lilUculties and hoic every hardship and hitter dis-
appointment, as he saw his dcan'st ho))cs, one after the other,
shattered hy the exi<;eneies of a jjosition in whieh the revolting;
duties of a slave-driver were forced upon him ; whilst every
opportunity for scientific; work was i-tithlessly withdrawn.

■X-

^ ^ V:

-X- -X-

* -X-

* ¥r ¥r ¥r Vr *

■\Ve only add a few words, written hy one who knew and
appreciated him : —

" His character Avas one whieh it was inii)ossil)le to know
■without loving— unselfish atul gcnenms, |)ure-hcarte(l and
brave ; a rare eomhination of manly sticngth and courage with
tlic most tender sweetness and gentleness of spirit. Seldom, if
ever, has sueh an instance been known to me of utter forget-
fulness of self and thoughtfulness for others, at all times and
under all eiieumstaiiccs»"

loinftiar Stanley anr
War bi'tweon J
l'ii]ic Town. —
c'ollecting-thiiig:

Fntil the star
famesoii kept i
lie taken from

,S'.*S'. PeshatVi

Fehruanj 18{
[lack troops, j
let come throii
Aden, where
[nc of the staff
le Expedition
|nd behaved sj

S.8. Orientm

Fehniary 10
Ike him very r
if the black ti

las seen a g

CITAPTETl I.

EXTRACTS FllOM LKTTKRS.

u' i

> 1]

'- IB ■■

■ i

t I^B'

} 1

j n

n t,

IB'

U H

■Hj 1

fiHil

•!! B

foiiiinir Stanloy and Ollici'iN of the Expedition. — Zanzibar. — Tippu-Tib.-^
I War between Sondane.se and Ziin/.ibaiis, -Stories about Tipnii-Tib.—

t'anf Town. — Huyinjr do<rs.— Stiiidey I'efii.se.-* carrier for Janie:ioa's

{•(illeeting-things and big rille. — Manana Point.

fxTiL the start up the Congo, on March 19th, 1887,
jainoson kept no rejijular diary. The following extracts
Ire taken from letters to his wife : —

S.S. Pcshmvur. Red Sea.

Fehrmnj 1887.—. . . I met Stanley at Suez, with the ^1887.^
[lack troops, awaiting the Novarino, which had not 2Tq^'
[et come through the Canal. He advised me to go on
Aden, where I should meet Major Barttelot, wlio is
Inc of the staff. We have got Dr. Parke as doctor to

le Expedition, who went through the Soudanese War
|nd behaved splendidly. ...

S.S. Oriental. Aden.

Fehruary 10th. — . . . I have met Barttelot, and
Hi liim very much indeed. He is to have command
|f the black troops, as he speaks their language and
las seen a good deal of them in Egypt. AVe are
roing to have a charming night of it. Another l^ritish-
[ndia boat has just arrived, and they will be all night
raushipping their cargo on to our steamer. Tc -morrow

1 .

ii '

1 :i

S STORY OF Tllh: RIUll COLUMN.

v^\) ^^'^* ^** '"^" ^''*' outer liarhoiir to await tlir arrivnlj
Aden "^ ^''** -'V^"'^''''W^>. ... I liavc just tiird to sjxsir nD(
enonnous cockroach with my pen, l)ut he escaped me!

FthriKi)'}! \^th. — Tlio Xavai'inn has turned u|) at hist.l
and wc start some time to-day. Stanh'y and the wliolej
party are lierc.

Fchruarji Mth. — Jephson is in my rahin ; ho is J
vohinteer, havin«i; Joined the Expedition on the sanifj
terms as myself. Stairs has heon teachin«j; us mappinj;]
and we all i^ct on, so far, capitally tojijetlief. tind I tliinlj
we are likely to ^o on well, as i-ach man will have hiJ
own ])articular duties to attend to. . . . The trying parti
of this Kx})editi(/n will he the want of news from hompf
However, I am sure to get letters from you on oiii|
arrival at the Congo.

'II

S.S. Madttm. Zanzibar.

Fchrunrji 23r^. — ... At last we are on board tb
steamer which is to take us to the Congo. At Lamiil
landed with Dr. Parke at daybreak, and we spent a lev
hours in quest of game, succeeding, after long walkiii^^
under a hot sun, in shooting three birds — a species 4
partridge. We saw a good many gazelle, but did m\
get any 1 made a sketch of ti-i. village. Next day w[
stopped at Mombasa, but I had no time to go on shore!
Yesterday we anived here; and I must say I wal
agreeably surprised with the whole place — town, har|
bour, and people. The streets are only about five fcef
^vide ; but the ^vindows and doors are all carved in dil|
ferent designs, and the effect of the black carved wooci
against the pure white building is very picturesque,
wish I had time to etch some of them, or even
make rough sketches. This morning we got up
6 A.M. and went on shore to the powder-magazinej
where we remained at work until 6.30 p.m. I don-
think I ever put in a harder twelve hours' work ; but i
does one good. We packed 4,500 lbs. of powder i]

hWT/HiJ'S rua.M LKI'TKllS. 3

Ispcciai casos which ciinio out from liomo, licsidiN a

lot of work with caps. 'I'o-inonow cv(Mnn«i; >vo arc
ill (lining at the Hritish ConsiMatc, and nc\t morning'

[(lliaiik «;oo(hu'ss!) wi> sail for tiic Coii^o. WC liavu
»i\ty-oiu' (loiik(\vs on l)oar(l, and tlic hrayin*,' tliat they
keep up at ni<;ht is (h(>adful. Ono starts it, and tlie
)th(Ms |»rolon«; tiic choius in difFcicnt keys ad injinifuni.

fl'o-morrow niornin*^ 0(10 /an/iharis arc coiniufj; on l)oard ;
tlicn wo ^ct at least ()()() more at the ('()n«j;(), uliicli,
,'ith the Soudanc-sc tro()|)s, will make a ^ood lot of men.
^ioodness knows how we are going to feed them all,
for they seem a hungry set! . . .

luhriiary 2^)fh. — I am not going to keep a diary
nitil I start u]) the Congo, that all the time that I
yan give to writing may he given to yon. So I shall
jkvrite every day, and send it all from the Cape when
,'c call there. ... At T.amn, of which I spoke in my
last letter, there are the remains of a great hattle, the
diole shore being covered with bones and skulls.
Some of our party gathered very good specimens. I
)clieve the fight was one between the Arabs and the
latives. Mombasa — a quaint old town, full of old
Portuguese ruins — possesses a pretty and almost land-
locked harbour. Off the Island of Pemba we fished
nth land-lines over the stern of the steamer, and
iaught a number of fish, small, but of the most beau-
liful colours — some bright red, others barred with blue,
jilver, and brown — a kind of bream or sea-perch, I

link. . . . The Sultan's Palace at Zanzibar is a won-
derful structure, quite square, w^ith an enormous cor-

igated iron roof, about four stories high — quite the
Igliest building I have ever seen, looking very like
|n immense doll's house. Imagine my surprise when
hoard that the famous Tippu-Tib was coming
nth us round to the Congo and on to Emin Bey.
|ix hundred of his fighting men are to meet us at
[tanley Falls. After dinner, at the Consulate, we

^ere all introduced to Tippu-Tib, who is a fine old

rab, very lively, and a thorough old gentleman.

1887.
Ki'l). 2.3.

Ziiiizibar.

M!^l^il

.tit

^i'iiii lit

■It

■ t

8T0EY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
Feb. 25.

Zanzibar.

We started to-day at daybreak. Tippu-Tib has about :;|
20 wives on board, and, including wives, 90 followers
altogether. They have all been more or less sea-sick,!
with the exception of his interpreter. It was mostf
amusing to see old Tippu led off by the interpreter!
and taken below, trying to walk straight, and makei
jokes — his man in rits of laughter. War broke outl
this morning between the Soudanese and the Zaii-I
zibaris. It was not until some damage had been do
to both sides that order was restored. I was standiii;'!
by the main hatch with ]Mr. Stanley, when his servaiii|
ran up to him, and said the niggers in the f()ic[
hold were killing one another. Mr. Stanley, NelsoiiJ
Je])hson and I ran forward, and the sijdit that mei
our eyes was exactly like an " Inferno " by Gustavo Dorcj
They all had great clubs, and were fighting lik(|
demons. AVe went down and drove the Zanzibaiil
into one place and the Soudanese into another; bii;;|
it took some time to disarm them and get them t(|
cool down. I took an iron bar from a man who hac|
broken one man's arm, and the finger of another'
These, and a large number of broken heads, coii^
stituted the results of the tight. All has been quit;
since.

February 2Ctth. — Busy all day, making vocabular
of Swahili language, which the Zanzibaris and Somaliii
all speak. The Somalis arc twelve picked men, pril
cured at Aden; they are to be armed with Winchestel
rifles, for Stanley's special guard — splendid fellows, aiil
they all speak English. In the afternoon I had to fiiil
out, and Avrite down, the names of the 117 men wh|
have been placed under my charge. I have oii(|
splendid boy amongst them, who is my interpreter!
and Avhom I am going to teach to skin birds ; he is on
of tlie most intelligent little chaps I have ever scei:
To-day some of those troublesome Soudanese soldier
attempted to take liberties with some of Tippu-Tib J
wives; in conseciueuce tliere has been a row, and ^
special sentry placed over their ap-.irtiiients.

extract:^ from l/jtters.

After dinner Mr. Stanley told us a few stories about

ij)pu-Tib. It seems that at one time he borrowed
jihout £4,000 from the Rothschild of Zanzibar, and
Itartcd into the interior with a p;ood many followers
lo trade for ivory. After some time he came to a very
(ar<''e native town, enclosed within double palisades,
the town was so large that, if a gun was fired off' at
mv point in the outer circle, it could not be heard at
lin o])posite point in the same circle. The king kept
iill his ivory and wives within the inner palisade, and
(here were 10,000 warriors guarding him in the outer
krcle. After keeping Tippu for a long time in his
[own, the king gave an order that, should any oH his

len catch Tippu alone outside, they should kill him.

)ne day he left the town by himself, and on his way
)acii he met two of the king's men, who began to shoot
jit him with bows and arrows. He ran for the gate of
[he town, but just as he reached it an arrow struck him
the leg and brought him down; he got up again
jind running towards his own camp, he shouted out to
lis people to bring him his gun. He was again struck
jind knocked down, but his wife managed to give him
lis gun, with which he shot both of the king's men.

^he shots roused the king's warriors, and brought all

?ippu's men running into his camp. They first shot
lown a number of the natives, and when about one
mndred of them had mustered, Tippu ordered them to

ush for the gate of the big town, and to fire all
jogetlier as the warriors carae on. This they did, and
Vnncd the houses nearest to them. The fight lasted
[hree days, by which time they had burned all the
J>uter circle of the town. They then proceeded to fire
Ihrough the inner palisade, until they had decimated
Ihe people gathered inside ; then they made a rush,
leized and beheaded the king, and captured all the

^oiy and women. Tippu next went to ail the smaller
josvns in the kingdom and collected enormous qiian-
hties of ivory, which he afterw^ards sold at the coast
[or £40,000. He became king of a whole country,
mtively through his own cunning. He once came to

1887.
Feb. 20.

At sea.

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
Feb. 20.

At sea.

iil

( - If

a strange country, where he was told that the king liad
been taken away years before, with his little son, and
that the natives had long expected his return. Having;
asked numerous questions of every native he mot.
without saying who he was, Tippu-Tib at length said td
one man, " Had your king not such and such coloured
eyes ? " The man said, " Yes." Tippu then exactly
described the king, until the native said, "Why, tliat
is the very man ! " — when Tippu told him he was the
son who had gone away with the old king, and that he
was to go and tell all the people. This he at once did,
when they came to him with presents of all kinds : and
to make a long story short, he is king of that country at
the present time. The following is a specimen of liic
cruelty : — He was once attacked by a tribe, of whom lie
succeeded in making some prisoners. He knew he
would be attacked by them again, so he killed all the
captives, and having cut them up small, he put them in
large pots to boil, mixing up bananas and all sorts ol
things, until a rich savoury aroma arose from the pots,
AVhen he was attacked by the natives, he pretended to
retreat, and watched his enemies — who had found the
pots on the fire — set to and ravenously eat up theit
own people.

March 2nd. — . . . This morning Mr. Stanley read toll
me Tennyson's * Ulysses.' . . . All the spare time I hadfl
to-day I was reading the * Light of Asia.' . . . Sianleyp
says he has got a copy -with him, too. He gave us all'
the most lovely little medicine-chests to-day.

March 3rrf. — Out of the tropics at last, and the|
weather is decidedly cooler. . . . Not an item of interest,!
again ! The oaly things which seem to change at all!
on board are the horrible smelb from the crowd ofp
natives ; and they only change in so far that they are ati
times much worse than at others. . . .

March 7th. — . . . I have heard the real story finnip
Stanley as to how he got Tippu-Tib to come with iisj
Before leaving England, he lieard that Tippu was inj

March Sth.-

EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS. 7

iZfinzibar. He at once tole<j:raphed that he partic\ilarly
hvislied to see him, and to keep him at any price until
Ihis arrival. When Stanley saw him at Zanzibar, Tippu
[first said lie would Ftop our going in at all ; so Stanley
[assured him that we were quite willing and prepared to
[fi«r])t him, but that he had better take care what he was
|ai)()ut. He then gave him the choice of fighting us
land taking the consequences, or of helping us and
[being made Governor of Stanley Falls, under the King
[of the Belgians. Next day Tippu-Tib said he would
[accept the latter ; and vStanley telegraphed the same to
[Belgium, and received a reply confirming the appoint-
[ment. The night we dined at the British Consulate,
ITippu-Tib signed an agreement to help us in every
[way, and was made Governor. He is not going with
[us further than Stanley Falls himself, but is sending his
[head men mth us, and 600 fighting-men. We expect to
[reach Emin Bey in July; so that, if we come back
[down the Congo, we ought to be home in no time. A
[more definite time than this I cannot give you : I wish.
[to God I could ! . . .

March Sth. — Arrived in Simon's Bay. . . ,

March Wi. — Lady Hunt-Grubbe and her daughters
jcame with the Governor and inspected the ship, and
[showed great interest in Tippu-Tib and especially in
[his Avives. Reached Cape Tow^n about 7 o'clock.

March lOrA. — ^Went on shore with Jephson and
Telson to buy a lot of things and to get dogs. . . .
[Had a delicious breakfast on shore, ... and searched
jail the morning for dogs. We collected ?. very curious
[lot, consisting of bull-dogs, bull-terriers, fox-terriers, a
[Bcdlington, and several unknown species. Mr. Stanley
[bouglit the two fox-terriers — one for himself, and one
[as a present for Tippu-Tib. Jophson and I secured the
[two large bull-terriers, and tosbod up for them. The
[large brindled one fell to me, and a horribly low white
[one to Jephson. They are about the two most ruffianly-
llooking (logs I have ever seen.

1887 •
Mar. 7

At sea.

;

! «'

'('

t:.l :

\ sc

i ;i

STORY OF THE UK Alt COLUMN.

1887.
Mnr. 11.

Capn
Town.

March Wth. — . . . Tlic deck is quite lively with all
the dogs ; hut the increase of insects of the carnivorous
species is much to be deplored. . . .

March IWi. — A donkey died : the first death on
board, with the exception of a few goats. . . .

Mirch Wth — A Zanzibari died to-day, and was con-
signed to the deep. It is horrible the way the natives
neglect their sick, or any one of them who is hurt.
Busy most of the day in packing musket-caps into new
boxes for Emin Pasha. . . .

March \^fh. — Jephson, disgusted with the low habits
and appearance of his dog, flung him overboard in the
dead of the night, with a furnace-bar attached to him.
Alas ! poor lUll, his life on board was a short and any-
thing but a merry one.

March IfiM. — Another Zanzibari died to-day, of in-
flammation of the lungs.

March 11th. — You cannot tell what real joy your
letter and telegram brought me at the Cape. I could
hardly believe my eyes when they brought them to me!
. . . One thing that makes one sad is knowing that,
after a time, it will be hard to send you any letters
or i.ews. ... To add to my cheerfulness, Mr. Stanley
informed me yesterday that he would not give me a
man either to carry my collecting-things, or my bi<;
rifle and its ammunition. This is a bright look-out
for me, who came to collect, and shoot meat for tlie
Expedition. Mr. Stanley was present when I was
speaking to l)e Winton ribout my big rifle, and advised
me to take sliells for it. I have, however, reduced my
wearing-ap])arel and my bedding tO so little that I can
take most of my collecting-things ; and some of the other
fellows liave been good enough to offer to carry some
of them for me. I liave reduced myself to one spare
coat besides the one on my back, one pair of boots on
and one pair packed, one blanket; and all the rest on
the same scale. Thus, at the expense of all my own

EXTRACTS FROM LKTTKBS.

personal comfort, I Ccan take my coUectin^-thinjjjs — or
at least some of them. x\ll this certainly takes a
irnod deal of the gilt off the trip to me ; but tliough I
must say I was rather mad at first, I am now making
the best of a bad business. I have had to give or
tlirow away every ounce of my tobacco ; but the empty
tins will come in beautifully for " bugs " and small bird-
skins. ... I shall take the big rifle on shore, and hire
men myself to carry it, whenever we have to go overland,
until we reach Stanley Falls, where I hope to get a couple
of men from Tippu-Tib to carry it on to Wadelai. . . .

March ISth [Banana Point]. — . . . We start up the
river to-morrow ; and as we begin to put everything on
board at daybreak, I shall have no time to wTite to you
in the morning, and must make up my mind to say
" Good-bye ; " for this is at last the great start of the
Expedition : God knows, I can hardly pluck up courage
to say it !

1887.
Mar. 17

Cape
Town.

\.-V

, !-

W*^-*'

Slavi; Girl.

( 10 )

wVP^.

■ %. ■ ■ ■"

Pkteh's Fetish,

1887.
Mar. 19.

Congo.

CHAPTER II.

DIAllY.

March IOth to April .^Oth.

Boma. — Ango-Ango. — Mpalaballa Mission Station. — March to Congo da
Lemba. — IJanza Maateka. —Day's march resembling slave-driving. —
Kiiilii River. — March to Vombo.— Stanley doing rear-guard. — Barttelot
sent on witli Soudanese. — Sick chief. — Lut^t6. — Kindness of the mis-
sionaries. — Stanley settling a row. — Inkissi River. — Thief. — Stanley's
punishment of chiefs.— Off to shoot hippo. — Difficulty about steamers.
— Kinshassa. — AVard joins the Expedition.

March IWi, 1887. — Started up the Congo at last in the
13iitcli Co.'s steamer Nieman, Nelson, myself, and 232
men. We were the first to start. Next came the
British Congo Co.'s steamer Alhuqiierqne with cargo,
and ]Jr. Parke and his company. Mr. Stanley follows
in the Portuguese steamer Serpa Pinto^ with about oOO
men and the donkeys, and Major Barttelot and Jephsoii
bring up tlie rear in another steamer with the remainder
of the men. Tlie view as far as Kishanga is very
limited, as the banks are covered with dense tropical

liver runs

DTAIir.

vof?otation, and the hv^h land at the back is only now
and aj]jain visible. After Kishan^a the river opens out,
with beautiful undulating country on either side, and
])ass numerous lar*i:e jjrass-covered islands. The

English Mission Station appears on the sky-line of the
u])lands on the right, immediately after entering the
river. A good fresh breeze blowing from the sea all
day prevented one feeling the heat. At Mataba, the
river opens out grandly. Here the banks are low,
discovering beautiful undulating grassy country at the
back. Anchored at Alligator River at one o'clock.
From the top deck of the steamer we could see nearly
twenty miles of country on every side. We lay opposite
Peter's Fetish, a beautiful rock, partially covered with
trees.

1887.
Miir. 19.

Congo.

'.|

.li

ill

BOMA.

March 20th. — Passed Boma, the principal town (?)
of the Congo Free vState. It consists of a few factories
or trading-houses, Dutch, French, Belgian, and Por-
tuguese, also a French and English Mission. It is very
])rettily situated, and in a more flourishing condition of
things may, I suppose, become a big place. There is
a large, beautiful pool above Boma, after which the
ri\er runs between high baiTen hills on both sides,
for although they appear brilliantly verdant, the hard

, I

! ',' m

1 '

P *

;i
1

STOliV OF Till': Rh:AR COLUMN.

1887.
Mar. I'O.

Ango-
Angu.

10(1 rock betrays itself on every square yard. Arrived
at Ango-vVngo at 2.40. Mr. Stanley passed at 5 o'clock
in the Serpa Pinto for Matadi, and shouted out a
messafi^e ■which ] could not understand. Sent a mes-
sen<?er overland t > liim. The answer arrived at 10 r.M.
to have everythiupf ready to ship on board the Serpa
Finto at 7 o'clock next morning, and Parke and Nelson
to walk with tlieir men overland.

March 21sf. — Stayed at the Dutch House with Mr.
Cramer, who gave Nelson and myself beds, and the best
of everything. Parke and Nelson started for Matadi.
The Serpa Finto steamed past about 10 o'clock without
stopping, leaving Mr. AValker and myself with the cargo
on shore looking after her ! A little later the Por-
tuguese gunboat came up with Barttelot on board, and
took off most of the cargo. Then Jephson came down
from Matadi in the Heron, and took off the remainder
with my men. Arrived at Matadi about 5 o'clock,
having had nothing to eat all day, and then had to tow

Augo-Ango.

up the cargo in a lighter to Stanley, who was at the
Portuguese Factory. I tramped back in the dark,
thoroughly disgusted with everyone and everything, to
get my first square meal that day. Visions of sketching
&c. are rapidly fading.

March 22
crises iuid nii
House. Tlu
lis light royt

March 2:),
and make u]
distributed
Avon't slioot
lire c'()in])ariii
witliout liea(

March 24;
over to tlie C
but after tbi
imictice witli
^^v\\. Uy.W
l)()at, ill ordc

March 2-"):
of the worst
of ciiider-lik
tlireo times,
ride liim ;
Found the 1
it in the r
backwards
little river is-

March 20,
"Went ahea
liuhtful wal
and the co
finch, black
head of the
greatest hos

3Iarch 27
for men wi
who is one
England, cc
loads up coi

DiAitr.

March 22)i(I. — TIard at work all day brrakin«jj open
cases and makiiijj: u]) loads. Slept in the P()rtti«;uese
1 louse. They are very kind to us, and feed and " (hink "
us ri^dit royally.

March 2oyv/. — The crj' is still we break open rases
and make up loads. Had a j»Tand ])arade of men and
distributed liemin«»t()n rifles, witli v/liich I liope tliey
won't slioot ns, and sj)ears, Avhicli from their rottenness
are c()m))anitively harmless, half of them l)e''i«»- already
witliout heads.

March 24:th. — Marched about three quarters of a mile
over to tlu' Conj^o State Station. They ijjave us lueakfast,
but after that left us entirely to ourselves. Had some
jmictice with the INlaximgun, which worked wonch'rfully
well. Mr. Walker left for the Mposo lliver, Avith the iron
boat, in order to put it toi»ethcr.

March 2^)th. — Marched to the Mposo River, over one
of the worst roads I have ever seen, up and down massifs
of cinder-like rock and broken (puirtz : my donkey fell
three times, and it was lucky I did not attempt to
ride liim ; I very nearly shot him in sim])l(^ disgust.
Found the boat not put tof>-ether, and when we did get
it in tlie river, it took us hours to cross, ])ulling it
backwards and forwards on a ro])e. This miserable
little river is scarcely more than thirty yards wide.

March 2C)th. — Marched to Mpalaballa ^lission Station.
Went ahead of most of my men, and had a de-
liii'htful walk. The road much better than yesterdav,
and the country ver} pretty indeed. Shot a Wliydah
finch, black, with yellow shoulders, ISlr. Clarke, the
head of the Mission, and the ladies treated us witli the
greatest hospitality.

March 21th. — Remained all day at ]\r]nilaballa, waiting
for men with loads from JNIatadi. ^let Mr. Ingham,
who is one of our staff, and came out here straight from
England, coming down with native carrieis to carry our
loads up country, Avhicli are far in excess of the number

Mar. '-'2
Muttuli.

1-'

1 1

(

m:.

.-'.M

STORY OF rill' It FAR ('OfMMy.

Mar. 27.

Mpaln-
bullu.

III!

of tlir /nnzihaiis. Kc ^iivc us ii very had iiccoimt of
the condition of tlic stcaincrs on the rj)|)(M' Con^fD,
'I'lic country round here is very Ix-autiful, hut witiioiit
any «jjani{', altliou^di bird and insect Mt'v, seem to hv on
the increase. 1 was very l)usy all day sortinj^ loads, and
parading men.

March 2^fJi. — >rarc]ied to Massam Mankonin.

patli seems to be made to cut the soles off one's boots,
and the donkeys do nothing but tuml)l(^ up the hills, or
tumble down them. The order was <j;iv(»n this morning
that we were to march in tlie rear of the men, and assist
them with their loads, so good-bye to all chances of
collecting.

March 2dfh. — Marched to the deserted native villaiijo
of (/ongo da Lcmba, which, until burnt by the Congo
Free State, was a flourishing native town. The Congo
Free State people have burnt the huts and driven away
the natives from nearly every village on the road,
consequently there is not a scrap of food to be obtained
for love or money. They say that the natives inter-
fered with their earners on the road. The work we
are doing is not fit for any white man, but ought to be
given to slave-drivers. It is all very nice for Mr. Stanley,
who rides ahead straight on to the next camp, where
we arrive hours afterwards, having done nothing all day
but kick lazy carriers, and put the loads on to the heads
of those who choose to fling them down. On arriving
in camp one has to go over all the loads to see that
they are correct, then stack them and interview the men
about the loads that have gone \vrong; so that it is
dark before one has even time to wash. I have given
up all hopes of collecting, although I have seen many
birds, and especially butterflies, that I should dearly
like to have obtained.

Bembezi If

March SOth. — Rained nearly all morning, so did not
start until late for the Lufu River. The
River was in flood, and having got all the men and
loads over, we found Mr. Stanley had gone on miles

I) I Ally.

iilicftd. Wu tncMittially pulled \\p \n thn dnrk, in the
middle of a trnjjiciil forest, tlu» men throwing down
tlu'ir loads, and ^'oin^ to s\vv\) in ovcry diicction.
Dr. Parke was in the fiont of the coluiiin, Stairs and
mvself in the centre, next came .leplison and Harttidot,
Nelson hrin^nnp? nj) the rear-<;iiar(l. The column heinjj;
over a mile lon^, when it hecann* dark sonu« of the
most advanced had reached camp. Stairs and Parko
soon ^ave it np as hoi)eless, and holted tor camp. I,
tiudinfj; myself deserted, lit my lantern and only piece
of candle, and struck out for camp also, leavinjj; the
men hopelessly lost in the bush to make the best of
the ni<j;ht. Shortly after arriving in camj) (where
Mr. Stanley repealed us with rice, biscuit, tea and
brandy, and the latter was very acceptable, as 1 had
waded the river and been soaking; wet for hours),
liarttelot and .]e])bson turned up, but Nelson slept in
the wood, in the camp beloiu^in^ to a man who was
l)rin<,nnsj; up thin<i:s for the Sanford Ex])edition. In
consequence of this nijijht, some of the loads were lost,
and several of the men bolted. I slept on the ground
in Mr. Stanley's tent, on my waterproof — about as liard
a bed as I ever had. From this you will observe what
a sjdendid expedition it is for a naturalist. It is some-
times very hard to think of all the glory of relieving
Emin liey.

March Slst. — Having got the men and the loads
out of the wood, we started amidst much grumbling
from the men, who had had nothing to eat, and marched
to the Lufu River. Here there is a ford, and also a
curious old swinging bridge of native construction,
with large gaps in it every few yards, and a deep drop
into the river if one fell. A couple of miles further on
we camped.

Mr. Stanley here behaved to me in a way which was
utterly undeserved, and which I did not expect from
him. On passing the Lufu River he was attacked with
acute dysentery, and although he was apparently all
right again in the evening, he was weak, and had to bo

1HHT.

Lufu
Rirer.

3it

STORY OF Till': li/JAU COLUMN.

1&87.

Mar. ;;i.

Lufu R.

.'■!•■'

carried from tlie river to the camp. When there I went
to him to report that one of my men liad deserted with
his gun on the marcli, and at the same time said I wa.s
very sorry to hear that he liad heen so ill. He turned
round very sharply and said, " ]No wonder. I have only
you to thank for it. I have liad notliing hut tea for
two days, whilst you liave had meat for your hreakfast
yesterday, and I consider you are eniirely to blame for
my illness." I may here state that I had volunteered to
take over the cooking and ration arrangements for a
week, as no one else seemed inclined to look after them,
and before we really could often get nothing to eat.
The facts about his having had no meat for two days
are the following : — The evening before leaving Congo
da Lcmba T sent a messenger to ask him if I should kill
a goat or the four fowls which were in camp, as there
was no meat. The message sent back by his own
servant, William, was, " Save the goat and kill the fjur
fowls, if they will be ei.ough for to-night." I killed the
fowls, and they were quite enough, for some of the
other officers had some in the morning. Jephson, Stairs,
and I breakfasted next morning in my tent on a tin of
sardines, the last but one that I had, so that Mi. Stan-
ley's taunt that I had meat wiien he had none falls to the
ground. That morning it rained for hours, and he would
not say whether we were to march or remain, so that it
was utterly impossible to kill any meat. He then ar-
ranged his march, so that in the middle of the night the
goats were left in the wood, and lie marched again next
morning before they were out of it. He then turns
round and says that it is entirely my fault that he is ill.
Altogether I think the whole business is a very thank-
less job, and the moment this week is over the cooking
arrangements may go to the devil for all I care.

April 1st. — Marched to the American Mission
Station, Banza Manteka, a beautifully situated spot,
standing high and surrounded by wooded valleys,
brilliant with troi)ical verdure. The water here is
worse than any I have seen, too dirty to wash in.

I J.

with IJarttelot

I'!'

DIABY.

ksion

leys,

is
iu.

1 obtained a number of good butterflies out of the
Mission garden. ' After dinner a fearful thunderstorm
I came on, and blew in the end of the officers' tent.
From the door of mine, which was snug and dry, I had
a beautiful view of all the fun, in the middle of which
a whole pile of ammunition-boxes fell down, to add to
[the confusion.

A]>ril '2>}fd. — In the morning we had a general parade
of all the men, and Mr. Stanley addressed each com-
pany in turn, and I noticed that all the lazy blackguards,
who had given us the most trouble, were foremost in
shouting out all sorts of fine things about going on to
the end of the world with him ! After this came a
drenching storm of rain, and then we marched six or
seven miles across the valley and camped.

April ord. — Had an awful day's work. Had to go
with Barttelot as rear-guard. Started at 6 A.M., and
did not get into camp near the Kuilu River until
nearly 6 p.m. I had nothing to eat the whole day but
the fifth part of a tin of sardines, and did not sit down
for more than a quarter of an hour. The work was truly
sickening, as every twenty yards one had to stop to put
a load cu a man's head who had flung it down, and
very likely give him a good dose of stick before he
would go on. There was no rest upon getting into
camp either, for I had to go over all my loads, stack
them, and send out men to find those who had not
come in. The work must greatly resemble slave-
driving. I succeeded in shooting a swallow, which is the
same as the small South- African one, and a bee-eater
which is new to me. Both were skinned by the light
f u small piece of candle, and the skins are worthless,
s two days elapsed before I had a chance of drying
them.

ylpril Ath. — Marched on to the Kuilu River, a muddy
apid stream, which we had to cross, ten men at a time,

1887.
April 1.

Banzit

Mantektt.

' ("The

town of

mud.")

pn an old dug-out canoe

'ongo Free State!

Such is the great road of the

This morning, in trying for the

STOin' OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
April 4.

Kuilii
River.

first time to ride iny donkey across a muddy mr.rsh, hej
fell and was nearly drowned, precipitatiiii^ me into thej
mud (tlie l)lackest I ever have seen), which filled m-,
saddle-l)afjfs containin<r my collectinjjj-thing's ! Early ij
the marcli we crossed a l()\ely clear trout-suggestivel
stream, running over and between ridges of pure linuJ
stone, which, says Mr. Stanley, is about the only liint.j
stone we shall see in the whole country.

April oth. — Still at the Kuilu Kiver — from 6 a.m. tJ
early in the afterno(>ii still getting men, loads, aiij
donkeys across.

Jpril C)fh. — Marched to Mwembi. On reaching tlifj
top of a hill, I found all the baggage and tents lyinj
on the side of the road, the men being about a quarteif
of a mile off iu a native garden, pulling up manioc, and
seizing whatever tiiey could. No shouts on my parto:i
from the chiefs could bring them back, so, talving up i\
good stick, I ran down the hill towards them, ancj
having waded through a swamp for about 150 yards,!!
met the first man trying to sn( dv back, I applied nitf
stick, and he made such a row that all the othcnl
decamped, and when I regained the top of the hill,
found all the tents and baggage gone on. On arrival
at Mwembi. the news was brought to us that one ij
our chiefs had been shot dead, and one of Tippu-TibJ
men shot in the hand by some of the natives of si
village which they had been looting. Went to bei!|
dead beat.

April 7th. — Marched to Vombo, quite the quickesil
march we have done, owing to a good level road, audi
Mr. Stanley doing rear-guard with some of his Soinali«l
himself How he did lay his stick about the lazy oiieJ
and the Somalis whacked away too. It was a sight fo:|
sore eyes to see the lanu^, the sick, the halt, and tli(|
blind running with their loads, as if they were featlier<
and I was delighted to see some of my men catch
hot, after I had been told bv Mr. Stanley himself iioi
to strike them. The marcli was otherwise iiiiintere.stiiij

DIAHY.

)vcr a high plateau, covered with lonf? rank grass,
/hich cut oft' any view of the land. Camped in an old
lativo village amongst palms, and collected a small
unnbcr of butterflies.

April Sfh. — Marched from Vombo to Lukungu Station.
lie road lay v^through beautiful country, affording
dimpscs on both sides of valleys filled with tropical
'euctation. Shortly after leaving camp a severe
ihuiiderstorm came on. liarttelot and I were doing
rear-/«'aard, with Stanley a little ahead of us. We both
law one of tlie lightning flashes strike the side of a hill,
Ibout 150 yards off", and a small cloud of dust and
imoke immediately floated away from the spot. It was a
ievere march, as some of the hills were bad, and the wet

lade them worse. Stairs had to shoot his donkey, as his
)ov led it badly down a steep place, and it broke its leg.

was getting intensely annoyed with the carriers, who,
lince Mr. Stanley went ahead, had done nothing but sit
lown, and was generally down on my luck towards the
tnd of the march, when I saw Parke seated under a

ree. He gave me a drink of my own whisJvey, thirteen
[ears old, and then everything changed to a brighter
lue ; but it also lent strength to m.y arm, w^hen, w'ithin

mile from camp, I found all the men had flung down

icir loads, and gone off looting in the native gardens.

seized a large stick and vent for them. It was more

lan I could bear to be stopped within sight of camp,
It the end of a long march. I laid about me, and soon
^ad them all in camp.

April 9M. — Barttelot was sent on in the afternoon
ith the Soudanese, and all the worst men in camp, all
[y liimself, to be always one day ahead on the road to
le Pool. It looks strange on Mr. Stanley's part to
3iid him by himself with the very worst and most
jbellious lot in camp, Avho will not move a yard so
)iig as they know that all tlie food is behind them.
iarttelot hns done a lot of work which he need not
(ave d(me, as it was beyond his actual duties, and it
Jems a poor return for it all.

1887.
April 7.

Vombo.

1 I ;

■ i

:!!' : 'I

-(I

SrOlir OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
April 10

ITiinbam-
wunga.

i:-^

, i . *'

i.'

■1 !

April lOM. — After sending Jephson's men to MmivJ
an«];a to meet hink and bring the boat on to Lntete, wo
marched to Kimbamwanga, where our advanced guard
ran into 15artteh)t's rear-guard, already proving that it
was wrong to send him ahead. This morning Mr. Staulev
placed me in a very false position with my men. Just
as we were starting, I told him that one of my chiefs
was very ill indeed, and that I did not think he could [
go on. lie told me not to bring him any reports ofj
the kind, that he would not listen to them, and that hisj
orders were for all the sick to go on, and that I was toj
see that they did so. I only said, " Very well, sir." I
beliaved very cruelly in making the man get up, amidstj
the murmurs of all the chiefs, and then driving him oiif
In a few yards he fell down, and could not get up, I
Mr. Stanley, on passing, recognized him, and went up tof
see how he was. He called to Ur. Parke to come to)
him, and told him that, as he was a good man, we mm\l
not lose him ; gave him medicine then, and left moiej
with him, at the same time telling one of the officers otj
the State to look after him, get him into a hut, and doj
everything he could for him. Of course all the meii|
now look upon me as a brute, and Mr. Stanley as a son!
of guardian-angel, although I was only carrying out hisj
own orders. My dog Bull ran away back to the Statioul
at Lukungu, and, poor beast, I am not sorry, for there!
he will be well looked after, and in camp 1 could no;l
get him enough to oat.

April 11th. — Marched to the Mpwka Eiver; a slionj
march, brought to a close by the river itself being infuUj
flood, with only an old rickety wicker-bridge, a few fee:j
wide, over which to cross. We felled two trees ; but
course they both fell in the wrong direction, as eveiTJ
thing does in this beastly country ! By the time tlifl
donkeys were swum over it was nearly dark. The woccj
was too thick to put up the big tent, which is the woki
and most useless of its kind I have ever seen in my Iife|
Stairs and Nelson slept in part of it which they put iipj
As it promised to be a fine night, Parke and I sle])t is

DIARY,

ur Ashantce hammocks. Before retiring, we killed a

iiirnificciit specimen of a centipede in Stairs' tent. I

iis sleeping soundly when, towards morning, down

ame a fearful thunder-plump, and befoio 1 could get

> waterproof sheet over me it wetted all my bedding

lid invself ; tlie rest of the night was not pleasant. Saw

wo splendid kingfishers, and many beautiful butterflies

n the river ; but it made me quite sick not to have a

oment to collect anything. Got a beautiful shell-

ackcnl spider with horns on the back, the same that I

ave seen in Borneo ; but I lost it in the confusion of

he next camp.

Ajiril 12f/i. — Did a good long march over beautiful
ountry to Lutete, where we found Jephson, who had
ot in before us from Manyanga. lie gave me the most
lowing account of the birds and insects on the river,
liicli made my mouth water. Barttelot stayed with
s, as half his men had gone on to Lutete, and the
ilier half were so far behind ihat th(»y were too late to
on. The whole idea of his going ahead with these
en is a perfect farce. The march lay over beautifid
ountry gradually rising all the way, the highest hill we
limbed being 500 feet, measured by Stairs from the
reek at its foot. From this point there was a lovely
lew down to the Congo on one side, to Lutete on
iiotlier, and behind us to the ISIpwka River. One of the
oinalis died this morning, and several others are very
ad indeed.

April VdfJi. — Had a very easy day. Marched to
jutctc, the English Baptist Mission Station, beautifully
situated, standing very high, and I slioidd say quite
icalthy. The missionaries received us with kindness,
)ut did not ask us to feast with them ; I suppose we
rere rather a rough-looking lot. Personally, I must
say I am not so " genteel " looking as when I left town,
)eing of a kind of brick-colour, with an untrimmed
)Ciud of no great length, of a colour to match. One of
the men was to-day placed in chains for stealing pota-
toes. Poor Barttelot has a terribly rough time of it

1887.
April 11.

Mpwka
River.

\ i

STORY OF Tilt: RICAR COLUMN.

1887.
April 13.

witli tlie Soudanoso, as ho cannot jjjet thorn ahmjjf at anv
prico. It is a spkMidid siijlit to soo Mr. Stanloy sottle
a row. To-day somo of the Soiidanose and Zanzibiirisj
began fighting about a c()oking-})ot, and awoke Mr,
Stanloy, who was ask^op. lie seized a stick, ran in I
and whacked away riglit and k^ft, giving one feUow a
regular facer with his fist, and, in less time than itj
takes to write this, there was perfect quiet !

April \ifh. — Had a long march ; but the men did I
it splendidly. Made an early start, and camped at
Nzungi. IJonny lost two of the pack-donkeys at
Lutete, but turned up about 5 o'clock in the evening
with them, Mr. Stanley's orders to him being that
he need not turn up at all unless he found them I
Bonny suspects the missionaries of having hidden
them ; for, when he was left behind, they asked him to
breakfast, and inquired how long he would wait for the]

donkeys. He replied, probably three or four days.i
that all his boys would be with him, and that the

State. The

:ir "\

DIARY.

missionaries would have to find them in everything, as
Mr. Stanley had left tliem nothinjjj. Two of the mis-
sionaries then went out, and returned in about an hour
j;vith the two donkeys, saying that as they were taking
a stroll they heard one of them bray in response to one
belonging to the station. Bonny, however, thinks that
the prospect of keeping him and his boys for three or
four days produced the donkeys.

April \^fh. — Marched to the Inkissi River. It is
now quite a pleasure to see the men walk along cheerily
with their loads. Our road lay for a long distance close
to the banks of the Congo. Some of the glimpses of
the river were very beautiful. I would give anything
to have time to make a sketch, no matter how rough,
of some of them. The foliage is gorgeous in colouring.
Some of the palms bear a bright scarlet flower, growing
in great clusters down the centre of each branch.
About half-an-hour from here we passed a dead native
tied upright to a pole, by the side of the path. Mr.
Stanley says it is the body of a thief, put up thus as a
warning to others, and that he was executed by the
natives themselves. The body was there when Mr.
Stanley camped in the same place three or four years
ago, and is mentioned in his book on the Congo Free

",'*{•

State. The natives here have

catching

birds by

hanging

long

curious method of
ropes, formed of

1887.
April 14.

Nsungi.

(

liiiiill

'{■■

I <

STOlir OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
April 15.

Inkissi
River.

creepers, from the trees on the edge of the forest to
polos stuck up in the ground about 15 or 20 yards ofi.
Hanging from these ropes are numbers of snares, made H
from finer creepers, in which the biids are caught as
they fly past.

April IC^th. — All day long crossing the Inkissi Rivor
I luckily got across early with all my men, and had ;;
glorious time amongst the butterflies, getting souk
magnificent ones, though I daresay the more insii^.
nificant, which I did not fail to catch also, will tuiiij
out to be the rr.rest, as is usually the case. Last
night was a horrible one. We slept in a deserted}
native but which looked waterproof, and retired withj
fond liopes of a good night; but about four hours |
before daylight it began to pour, and poured on until I
7 o'clock. The water came in through the roof just!
above my head and shoulders in torrents; and althoiiglij
I had an umbrella up, and two coats over me, I was "
drenched and all my bedding, which, by the bye, con-
sists of Olio blanket and a waterproof sheet with some
grass under it.

■R

April 17th. — Had a long march. I had to do rear-
guard, but now tliat the Zanzibaris go so well, it is not
nearly so tedious or heart-breaking a business as it
used to be. The birds all seem to be in bad plumage I
for skinning, as most of the feathers are still in the
quill, and they make the most horribly bare-lo(jking I
skins.

=;il

•fe

April 18th. — Marched to Nkalama. There is a most
beautiful waterfall just below camp, where the IMpwka
falls into the Congo. The Congo itself is remarkable
for the masses of bare, black, horribly forbidding rocks
which abound on either shore, and crop up here and
there in reefs all over the river. Shot a warblei-, the
skin of which I saved, T found out that one of the
ammunition-boxes carried by my company had been

DIARY.

lost to-dJiy, so I roportod the matter to ISFr. Stanley after
seudinj? back two chiefs all aloii^ the road to look for
it. Mr. Stanley ordered the whole company to fall in,
arid then made each man take a load from the heap of
loads bronji^ht in. He asked the chief Avho had received
the loads in camp to recopjnize those of the men who
had l)r()nf2;ht in theirs, lie did not remember seeing
one unfortunate man, so Mr. Stanley fixed npcm him as
the man who had lost the box, althongh he is really
one of my best carriers, and swore he brought in his
box, and showed Mr. Stanley the tree he cut down to
keep tlie boxes off the ground. Mr. Stanley then called
the Somalis, and gave all my chiefs, with the ex-
ception of the one who had received the loads in camp,
"Hftv cuts each with a stick, whilst they were held down
on the ground. He then gave to the man, whom he
accused of having lost the box, a hundred lashes, asking
him several times during the beating where the box was,
— the man each time still s^vearing that hh box was in
cam]). lie then chained and padlocked the chiefs all
together, and accused me of losing three boxes of ammu-
nition (which I flatly denied), and told me that in 77 it
would have been death*, and if it happened again we
must part. If this sort of thing is to go on, and he
speaks to me again as he did to-day before the men, I
sliould not be sorry if w'e did part, for I certainly will not
keep my temper again. Afterwards I went to his tent,
and asked him to explain his statement that I had lost
three boxes of ammunition ; and this he utterly failed
to do. He said, " You have three times reported to me
]){)xes lost." I then told him that the last time was
onlv two days ago, when Dr. Parke and I had explained
tlie matter to him, and Parke had handed over to me
tlie box missing from my loads ; and the only other
time I had reported a load lost, I had also reported to
him its recovery. If he goes on much more like this, I
shall get sick of the whole thing. He has failed to

* 1877 was the date of Mr. Stanley's return journey 'Through the
Diirk Coutinent.' — Ed.

1887.
April 18.

Congo
River.

:-' '.

|ii

vm.

c ^

■\ l!

\ '.

; \

^ i

STORY OF TlIK It i: A It COLUMN.

1887.
April 18.

Congo
Ri ver.

find out tho man who lost tho box, and has dcf^radod
three of my cliiefs, who were simply tlie best men I hiivc
ever seen. They are to carry loads to-morrow, and I
dtm't know how to fill tlieir ]daces. 1 heard fVoin
Stairs to-day that at present the IStanley is the onh
steamer ready to take? ns up tho Con^o from the
Pool. The Kn<jflish Missicm has refused the use of its
steamer, and the American Mission is awaiting in-
structions. This is the ma«.niificent fleet of steamers
placed at Mr. Stanley's disposal for ninety days by the
King of the Belgians ! I

April l^fh. — This morning Mr. Stanley succeeded in
breaking up my company, 1 think for good. lie made
my chiefs, all chained together as they were, carry loads
of ammunition, and made new chiefs, picking out two
of the worst men amongst them. We marched on tn
the Luila llivcr, and having crossed it, camped just
above it.

April 20th. — Marched to Makoko's village. Here,
thank Heaven, Ti})])u-Tib interceded on behalf of mv
chiefs with Mr. Stanley, and he ordered them to be
unchained. I at once gave them back their rifles, and
made cliiefs of them again. Old Makoko, the chief
here, is an extraordinary-looking object, possessing what
the Americans call a chin-whisker, which he has divided
into two, making each division into a ringlet. His old
visage is wrinkled and of a perfect chocolate hue,
Parke is very seedy with dysentery.

yipril 21st. — Arrived at Leopoldville, which is a
pretty spot, looking right up the Pool, the views of|
wliich are rather too peaceful from this end to please
me, and not what I had expected.

April 22nd. — Very busy until midday making out
returns of men, rifles, boos, axes, spades, billhooks,
loads, &c. for Mr. Stanley. Then Major Barttelot
came and told me I could start off at once and try and
kill some hippos, for there w^ere no more rations in

DIAUr.

ramp f<»i" tlu> men. I }j;()t my t]nii«^s tofjotlior ns quickly
us nossihlo, and of course, in my excitement and ea«»er-
iicss, foij^ot the two most im|)ortant thin<j;s — food and a
mosquito curtain ! Sucli small details as these were
(luite secondary as comi)ared to hijqiopotami. I trusted
to ««'ettin<i: some biscuits and tinned stuff at the Dutch
tradini^-house, higher up the Pool, where I had to call
for my bi^ rifle; but, on amving there, found neither
ritie nor edibles, but a most acceptable drink of very
cxtellent cognac. I was in a fine bi<if canoe with ten
15anjj;alas to paddle me, and camped some distance
above Kiushassa on the river-bank. Never did 1 spend
a more miserable night. My boy had forgotten my
water])roof ; the rain came down in torrents ; and I was
wet through before retiring to bed in my tent, and
passed the wliole night in this soaking condition.
Sleep I could not, for the mosquitoes were in thousands;
and next morning I was a perfect wreck.

April 2o>y/. — I started at daybreak ; and although I
sliot tAvo hipjios, I only succeeded in getting one of
them, as the Bangala, whom I left to watch the first one
rise, went sound asleep, and let it float down the Congo.
1 returned in triumph, however, with the meat to
camp. The Bangalas are the greatest savages I ever
came across, and about the most difficult to manage.
They simply do nothing exce])t when it suits their
fancy, although they are splendid men when they do
work. On returning to Leopoldville, I heard of great
rows going on about the steamers. It appears that,
after all, the missionaries had refused to lend the Henry
Heed, as one of them (the engineer) was going down
to the coast to be married. (This steamer, with the
Peace and the Stanh'y^ are the only three available to
rake us up the river.) They had taken away some
parts of the machinery to render her useless, so
Mr. Stanley sent down a guard of Soudanese under
Major Barttelot to the Mission House, with orders that
if the pieces were not given up, the house was to be
searched, and a second guard under Jephson to take

April 23.

Leo 1)0 Id-
Til

)l)0l(

ille.

;

STour OF riiK reau column.

1«87.
April 'jn.

Htunlnj
Tyol.

I' i

cliar^o of tlio stoatiuM'. TIkmi tlio rliiof of tlio station,
Mr. Liebrichts, said that Mr. Stanley was wronj^ in
actin|j; as ho had, hut that ho couhl make it all rijjjlit,
as the State has the power of takiiif^ the Mission
steamers whenever they are rocpiired ; so he removed
the Soudanese, rei)la('in}j^ them hy his own }j;uards. 'I'lic
missionary who was ^oin<»; to be married, said he iiud
considered the whole matter over with (iod, as Mr.
Stanley .says, "even to the third watch," and that liu
could not lend her.

April 2Uh. — This morninjj; I liear the matter about
the steanuT is satisfactorily Mrriini;"ed ; and Mr. AN'alkui
goes as en<iineer, the steamer l)einf;' lent under protest,
althou<i;h very W(>11 ])aid for. Meat is so badly wanted
that 1 am otl' a,i;'ain uj) the Pool to shoot more hippos.
This time, however, I am not going' without food or a
moscpiito (jurtain. Mr. Liebrichts is sending one of tlie
otHcers of the State also, as he wants meat for the men
of the station. Mr. Stanley has the mails intercepted
before reaching Leopold ville, so that the missiouiuies
cannot receive unfavourable advice about lending their
steamers.

April 2^}fh. — Tlic Free State officer started this
morning in the large canoe, leaving me the small one,
out of which it was simply impossil)le to shoot. His ])ro-
position was that, when wa saw hippos, one of us should
go to the other side of them, that they might be driven
li'om one canoe to the other. I did not quite see this,
as the river is narrow between the islands, and I
thought of the bullets that would be flying about when
one rose between us ; so shortly after starting I took a
line of my own, and soon shot one, more by good luck
than good guidance, as the moment I raised the rifle to
Are, over went the canoe on one side. I unfortunately
lost this hippo, as I shot it in a rapid current between
two islands, and it was carried down before rising. I
had a tiresome wait on a sandbank in a scorching sun
for four hours ; but no hippo came u]3. I shot another
Inter, and it did not rise before dark; so we lost it also.

DIARY.

Jnril 2C)f/i. — Got up with a (listiiict toiicli of fever,
niul vcrv shaky ; hut as I saw soin(» hippos uot far off,
and su('(;(hmUm1 in iuakiu«^ some nativ(»s h'n<l me a hi»^
ciuioe for the promise of meat, I st.nted off after theui,
and with tlio very first sliot kilh^l a huvir cow stone
^\^^.^(\ — she just opened lu»r jaws nnd s;udv. I tlien
struck aiiotlior, wliieh eaine up, hut I had sliot it too
fur forward, and so it couhl not keep under water.
This one ^ave me a lot of trouhle, eharjj^inu; tlu» canoe
over and over a«j:ain ; and althou<j;h F stepped it each
time witli a huHet in tlie liead, it was not until th(> fifth
tliue that I killed it. The way that tlie nani^ahri
sliouted, and darted round and round him in the canoe,
was <jfreat fun. Went on shore to wait for the ]ii])pos
to rise ; and while tlic natives were cutting' them up I
bc;j:an a letter home.

Extract from a letter to Mrs. Jameson, dated April
20///: — " On a sandbank in the middle of i'Stanlei/ Pool,

cuftinf/ up a hippopotamus just killed This is

the first chance of writinji; to you I have had since
Iciiving Hanana. It is a cloudy day and cool, so I am
writing whilst waiting for a canoe frora Leopoldville to
take away the meat. I had rather a sharp touch of
fcner this morning at dayhreak, the first 1 have had,
altliough everyone else has been ill. Stanley has had a
bad attack of dysentery, Parke is very ill with it, and
Jephson, Stairs, and Nelson have all had fever, while
Barttelot has had nothing but bad headaches, and ycnir
husband has been in splendid health ! There was little
or no food for our 700 or 800 men at Leopoldville, so
they have sent me to kill meat for them. I have shot
a lot of hippos, and would have shot a number more if
I liad had my big rifle. I got it forwarded from Ango-
Aiigo by the Dutch House, as Stanley would not give
me carriers for it. I am shooting with an express
of liarttelot's, which, although a good gun, is no
weapon for hippopotami. The march from Matadi was
one of the most disgusting pieces of work I have ever
had to do, until the latter part, when the men marched

April -Jrt.

Sfiiiilpy
Tool.

(■

1 1

i-h-l

STORY OF THE HEAR COLUMN.

1887.
April 20.

Stanley
Pool.

I', ■ 'i

bettor. A lot of slave-drivers of the old days wonid
have done it mucli better, for that — slave-diiving — \{\
wliat it often resolved itself into. (There is a bi<ij hippo
in the middle of tlie river lookin<^ at me, but I Avill iiotj
try to shoot him as I liave not canoes enough to cam
the meat.) I have no letters from you later than tlie i
one dated Februarv 3rd ; the Portuffuese mail haviiii;
broken down, we are witliout any news, and it is
awfully disheartening. The sport and natural-historv
part of this Ex])edition is a regular farce, and I can
see very little hope of its being any better later on,
This is very tiring work to be at so long, sleeping in a
swamp at night, and, after shooting a hippo, remaining; I
for three or four hours on a sandbank in a blazing sun.
until he rises to the surface, and two hours more, wliile
the superbly lazy, tliough savage, natives cut it up. I
have never been in a country ^v here I believe there is
more to be collected. The birds and insects are lovely,
but with the work one has to do it is impossible to <iet
anything. All my lovely dreams have been very rouglily
knocked on the liead. I will give you a specimen of a
day's work on the march, liarttelot and I started one
day as rear-guard a little after 6 a.m., and did not reach
camp until after 6 p.m., with not a quarter of an hour's
rest all day. Notliing but beating niggers with a stick.
and lifting their loads on to their heads, and day after
day the same disgusting work. Jt must take a great
deal of glory to make ud for it all. I am keeping a
diary for you

" Wednesday., 21 th. — Still on this sandbank; the canoes
have not arrived. When I finished writing yesterday. I
went and lay for over an hour in the sun to try and get
that big hippo that I told you was looking at me. At
last he got up on a bank, and I shot him through the
heart, althougli it was a very long shot. It brought ou
tlie fever twice as bad, and I had a very bad time of it
all vesterdav and last night. ... It seems years since
I left home, and the want of all news from you makes
it seem much longer. I am very shaky this morning,
3o I will lie down for a little. . . .

mM —

EXTRACT FROM LETTER.

reach
loiir's
stick,
after
<>-reat
)ing a

canoes

'day. I

Lcl get

the

lit on

of it

since

nakes

iiing,

" 8 P.M. The ('amp, Leopoldvillc. — I arrived liere

safelv a few lioiirs ago ; the canoes turned up at noon.

The fever has quite left me. ... A moment ago a

perfect tornado of ihunder, lightning, rain, and wind

came on, and I had to jump up and make the tent

riu'ht. Thank ]Ieaven, I am not on that sandbank!

'i'lu' natives here seem very much like those of the

^Mashona country. They have the same kind of

* pianos ' *, and there is a great similarity of language,

jhut thev are not nearly so far advanced in agriculture.

The Uangalas who were with me in the canoe came

froni liigher up the river, and are the people whom

Stanlev fought. They have never forgiven him for

killing the brother of their chief. TJiey are cannibals,

and file all their teeth into points. They told me that

one of their chiefs, who was very rich, is nov/ quite

poor from buying nice, fat, young women to eat ; this I

know to be a fact. The price of one is from three to

fonr hundred kantakas (short brass rods, which are the

money of the country). They eat all those whom they

kill in battle. They remove the inside, stuff them with

bananas, and roast them whole over a big fire. I can

believe anything of them from the little I have had to

do with them. The Pool is full of lovely birds, many

of which 1 know to be very rare. A^'e have all had one

or two rather disagreeable moments wdtli Mr. Stanley,

bnt I think they are over for the present. I cannot

help admiring him immensely for his great strength of

will and power of overcoming difficulties ; but there are

some points in his character which I cannot admire.

I will give you an instance. One day, whilst talking to

Dr. Parke, he told him that he hacl heard that two of

the boxes of provisions had been opened by the white

men — meaning the officers. Dr. Parke asked him who

told him. He replied, some of his Zanzibaris. Parke

then told him that the only two cases opened were

o])ened to get out arrowroot and milk for himself

(Stanley), when he had dysentery, and that he could not

understand his listening to tales about the officers from

* See sketch on page lOG. — Ed.

18S7.
April 27.

Leopold*
ville.

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
4.pril 27.

I^eopold-
ville.

the nifi^Ejcrs. He had a row with Stairs in exactly tlio
same way. Stairs' donkey broke its leg *, and he liad
to shoot it. I saw the broken leg myself. When he
reported the matter, Mr. Stanley informed him that ho
had been told that the leg was not broken, ar.'l that he
shot it in a rage ; and when asked who had told hiin.
said, " Some of Tippn-Tib's people." Stairs then gave
him a real good piece of his mind on the subject. It
is impossible for any one calling himself a gentleman,
and an officer, to stand this sort of thing. The fact is.
this is the first time Stanley has ever had gentlemen to
deal with on an expedition of this sort."

■:i:!l

Sii

DIAET (continued).

April 27th. — Ai'rived at camp about 5 o'clock. The
meat had nearly all gone bad, and the voyage down the
Pool, in a hot sun, with the stinking meat, was anything
but pleasant in the condition I was in. I was greatk
amused wdth the Bangalas' method of buying fish from
the natives. I landed one day on a sandbank to wait
for a hippo to rise, and I noticed all the Bangalas
going oi^" to the shore, where there were three native
canoes full of fish. I asked my boy where they were
going. He replied, "To buy fish." The Bangalas
suddenly made a rush at the canoes, upset the natives
from out of them, beat them with their paddles, and
returned loaded with cooking-pots, young crocodile
ready cut up, fish, native bread, and water-bottles made
of gourds. I saw some very fine darters, larger thau
any I saw in South Africa. Shot a spur-winged plover.
with beautiful bright orange wattles and pale lemon-
green coloured legs.

April 2StJi. — Murched to Kinshassa. Dined with
Mr. Greshoff, who gave us the best of everything.

Ajm'l 2^fli. — I saw the natives bringing in a num-
ber of fish exactly like our barbel — scales, beard.

* See Diary, April &th.

tate service.

DlAUr,

lonlli, tail, and evorythin<i^. After dinner Mr. Gres-

^ott" sliow(^d us a beautiful chart of the Kwan«^a River,

Hiich led to Mr. Stanley producinpj Dr. Junker's map

lis ori'^nal one), which he has kindly lent him, also a

[oletou map of the country between Stanley Falls and

V'adelai, ready to fill in all the unknown country. We

lad a lonf); conversation about natives, geography, &c.,

id I spent quite one of the pleasantest evenings since

started. Mr. Stanley, when he throws off" his reserve,

one of the most ag) eeable of men and full of infor-

lation.

April ?>Oth. — Two hundred men went off" under Nelson
id Stairs to try and get the Florida into the water, as
le slips, on which she was, had broken down when
ley tried to launch her. Mr. Greshoft' very kindly
led my large silver flask with spirits of wine for
jetlcs*. This vrill be invaluable to me for collecting

the march. In about three hours' time the men
kurned, having successfully launched the Florida.
[bout 3 o'clock the Stmihy and Henry Reed came
Und from Kinshassa, followed by the Feace from
[eopoldville, and by our iron boat, which has been
iristened the Advance. Before dark we had them all
Jaded, and ready for the men and donkeys to be put

board in the morning. Just as we were ffnishing,
''ard and Troup turned up in a canoe from Leopold-
le. Mr. Stanley has decided to take Ward with
; he was originally in the employ of the State,
Iter on in the Sanford Expedition, and has now joined
[r. Stanley. Mr. Troup was formerly in the Free
late service.

I* This flask (containing beetles), with the bulk of Jameson's colleo-
[)n, never reached England. — Ed.

1887.
April '1%

Kinahtissa

■- ■

'. \ i

\ ■> '

1
1

:i;

'.■yMi^'^'''^-

STOliY OF THE Itr.Ali COLUMA\

found large c

'Hi

vjir

II, Jl

1887.
May 1.

Upper
Congo.

CHAPTER III.

May 1st to June 7th.

Start up the Upper Conpo. — Scen'ryon the Pool. — Spiders' webs. — ^fswatil
— IJula Matadi. — Man proposes, and God disposes. — Bolobo. — Biitlii; |
hunt. — Jameson is informed that he is to be left at Yambuya. — Lootir:
— Lulvulela. — Scenes with Stanley. — Equator Station. — 1 >iue witli Jl:
Cilave. — Uranga. — Bangala. — Tloussas eaten by natives. — Fever,-
Upoto. — Stanley's distrust of his officers.

Sunday, May 1st. — At last we have made our fiiiall
start up the Upper Congo, and on a lucky day. Tlif[
Henry Reed Avent first with Tippu-Tib, all his people, aucl
Bonny and Walker on board, towing two whale-boatil
full of men. We came next in the Stanley, towing tlitj
Florida. Towing is not the right word, as both tlitl
Henry Eeed and the Stanley are stern paddle-^vheell
steamers ; they have to make both boats fast alongside]
Stairs, Nelson, Jephson and myself, the Captain, eiigij
neer, and 1G8 men, with three donkeys, made up
number. Next came the Peace with Mr. Stanley,
servant William, and Ward on board. We steamed oil
to Kimpoko, where the American Mission is (Bislioi
Taylor's). We landed all the men to cut Avood fortkp

jmoriiing sun n
iDover, and are

^he Mosanibicu
elephant-tracks
behnv the Bla(
farge and smal
sure they would
jbr a sportsman
ffit ought to at
3ut a few old el

DfAltV.

steamer, and finislicd by moonli<ij]it. My head has been
v(MV bad ever since that dose of fever, and, althon«»;h
desperately hun<2^ry, I cannot enjoy food. I saw two
l)(';iutiful hiriije black-backed terns on the Pool, the only
()iu>s I have ever seen ; but 1 did not get a sliot at
tliem. The scenery on the Pool is coinjdetely spoilt by
the numbers of low sandy islands, covered with l()n<»:
rank i^rass, upon which tlie hippos feast, and where I
fomid large colonies of pigeons and numbers of small
herons,

il/r/y Ind. — Mr. Walker and Bonny turned up while
VsQ were at dinner, and complained bitterly of the man-
Incrs and customs of Tippu-Tib and his people on the
\]lenry Heed, their v;ays not being European ways.

The upper end of the Pool is much finer than the
I lower; tlie hills are higher, and the vegetation more
luxuriant. Perhaps for the first time you realize what
a s])lendid river the Congo is, as you see it in one grand
juulnoken stream, not inclosed by rocks as below, but
[flowing between beautifully wooded hills, their sides
[covered with tropical forests right down to the water's
ledge, and their tops with bright green grass, and small
Icluinps of trees dotted here and there. At the end of
[the Pool are some sandstone? cliffs, which, wnth the
Imorning sun upon them, Iook: exactly like the cliffs of
jDover, and are named after them.

May drd. — Passed a very large crocodile, numbers

f large geese, and several white eagles with brow^n

ings and tail. Saw a nightjar, apparently larger than

he Mosambicus, but same colouring, and plenty of

lephant-tracks for the first time. We stayed just

We could see

feel

me tliey would take the fly. It is very disappointing

br a sportsman to pass through a country that looks as

f it ought to abound with game, and then see aothing

lit a few old elephant-tracks and crocodiles.

Mat/ ith. — At some places to-dav I should sav the

1887.
May 1.

Stanley
Pool.

)el()w the Black River for the night

larsje and small fish rising at insects all dav ; I

'*!■

I r

i r.

1 1

■■rii

,•.'!

1887.
May 4.

Congo
River.

STORY OF TIIK HEAR COLUMN.

river was quite a mile and a half wide. The hills are
much lower, and on the riglit-liand bank the foicst
grows only along the water's edge. The landscape is
altogether much tamer. Saw a beautiful pure white
heron (about the size of our common English one),
many spur-winged plover, hornbills, and geese. There

Diagram of Spiders' Webs.

■h\

,M'

is almost a total absence of swifts and swallows, which
is curious, as the Lower Congo abounded with different
kinds. Saw a few guinea-fowl, of the common specie?, [
and not the crested variety I expected to see. Ele-
phant-tracks again abounded in the forest, which is I
full of giant creepers. . In it I noticed a curious colony |
of spiders. There were four trees at equal distances
forming a square, and near to the top of each a spideil
had attached one corner of his web, so that it huni:
from the four corners just like a blanket. About a fooi
below this one was another exactly similar, and agaii
a third below it, and so on to within a few feet of tlie

«i

DIARY.

(Trniind. There were at least six or eip:ht webs. Each
si)i(ler took up liis station at the centre ])oint of his
web, wliich was a tliicker part tlian tlie rest, and cnp-
slKii>e(l. Between these suspen(UMl webs were others
ui)iimht, connectini? them, so as to catcli anytliin«2: tiyin<>
l)et\vcen. Enormous quantities of ants, of every size
and description, swarmed in tlie forest, and made it
anytliinu: but a pk\asurc to walk therein. In the nijjjht
the men started off to some manioc plantations a long
way from the steamer, and returned loaded with roots ;
and tlie noise with which t^^e others in camp greeted
them was enouoh to waken the dead. For nearly the
whole of the night they did nothing but shout, cook,
and eat.

MdjI ^)tli. — Reached ^VFswata at 9.30 a.m., where we
found Barttelot and I*arke flourishing. Their tent was
pitched right in the centre of the main street of the
town, if it may so be called, and amidst ({uantities of
bananas. The old chief was most friendly and anxious
to see " Bula Matadi," as all the natives call Mr.
Stanlev. The meaning" of the name is "• Stone-breaker,"
and it was given him whilst at Vivi. One of the
Zanzibaris was trying to lireak a large rock, and striking
it in the wrong direction. Stanley noticed the lay of
the cleavage and took the hammer, sending the stone
flying in pieces with one blow. This so astonished the

natives that they at once called him Bula Matadi,
and he is universally known all over the country by
this name and no other. Mswata in Stanley's time was
one of the Congo State stations, but, like many others,
has been abandoned. The chief has the same mark of

1887.
May 4.

Congo
River.

.'«l'1f

'i:U

' ■ ■; H

STORY OF THE It 11 Alt COLUMN.

I i:

l?'^'b '^istinctioTi as old Makoko, uamoly a cliin-whiskoi,
Mswuta 'lividcd into two curls, 'i'lioy divido tlioir liair into t^v
ioii^' tails, Olio on oac-li side of tlio forolirad, bcndin^
outwards, exactly in tlio slia])o of buffalo horns, hik!
sornotimes liavo one in tlie middle also. 'Die nunilxi
of these liorns is evidently a sij^n of the decree of raiil\
of the wearer, tlie greatest swells having tlie lartros:
number. I wei>t for a stroll tlu'ough a lovely f( rosi.
full of mall '^ii'efms, at the bank of the town, and oo;
a '''orl' i;! 1..! oi u 3W butteiHies. This is the first i)lii((
where 1 i;:* ^■■.' ; iliced a decided change in the buttcrflicv
from thoor of ih^ Lower Congo, some of them bein^
very beautiful, lia/ttelot and Parke are to march t
Kwamouth. They dined with us, and we spent a von
pleasant evening. Mr. Stanley sent for Stairs after
dinner, and told him we were to go on straight t
Bolobo with as little delay as possible, and there to ask
the chief's leave to land our men for a few days, as tl:i
last time Stanley was there he was fired upon, and
they had to burn down tlie town. Wliilst it was a Free
State station and Mr. Liebrichts vras in command, tliev
had no jialavers, and burnt the town both times ; so ivi
wonder the natives don't like the white man. Mr. Stanley
says, if they refuse to let us land, we must occupy one
of the inlands o])])()site to the town, and await his
ariival. He thinks it is about even chances that ^ve

hav

e a row.

May Cith. — Kever came a saying more true than did
the old one to-day, "Man proposes, and God disposes."
We were hours ahead of botli the otlier steamers,
boasting by how far we should beat the Peace u]) to tlie
Falls, if we were allowed to go ahead, all sitting in
the top deck-house with the Captain, when tliere came
a violent bump, then another, and another, and w
were stuck fast on the toj) of a lock, with the water
pouring into three compartments, through about five
holes in our bottom, and we three or four hundred
yards well out in the river! Luckily the Zanzibaris
behaved splendidly, sitting perfectly still and doing as

Ithcy W(':-<^ tol(

jk<'<'|> the wal

All. V])on

, a large fl.

■ ^\. tei on any

';, .teiied aloiii
.^y .(Is aii.l don
^,iid not touch.
Itlio f()r\»ard c(
water-tight co
Avatcr from ga
were safe. ^^
stern, and dro
jstonn came up
round, and w(
!with one moi
I deep water, br
I with a lump o:
speed ahead
buckets, as oui
boats on to a s
i above the seen
I came in time, f
Florida would
1 most of the am
and stuff to 1
Sfanlei/. I th
times, that we
view passing
which is reall
(which runs i:
Cougo, being r

Mai/ 1t]L—\
llenvij Reed ap

|8.o0 A.M., so W(

them about the

it. Much late]

to the opposit

[Beed whistled,

■liiskcr,
ito tWi)
cndiiiir
us, iiiifl
innihcr
:)f' rank

UlALtr,

All

II-; a:^

licv \V(*:o told. With tlio aid of buckets wo could just
tlio water from <^aiuiii<j;, hut could not ijjet it
U])oii soinuhnii-, w(^ found ourselves on the top
( a larti^e ti.it rock, with not more than three feet of
,v KM on any pari of it. liuckily ♦^he Florida^ which was
a teiied aloiiii^side with 108 m.cii on hoard, numerous
] .(Is nu.l donkeys, was drnwin«j; so little water that she
(lid not touch. The holes were all in the afterpart of
tlio f()r\»ar(l compartments; and, as she is built in nine
wntor-tiij;ht compartments, as long as we could keep the
water from gaining and tlie steamer from bumping, we
were safe. We shifted the whole of the cargo into the
stern, and drop])ed two anchors. Just then a thunde^
storm came up, with a strong breeze ; she at once swnn^'
round, and we started the engine full speed aster ; ;
with one more bump wc swung clear right into he
deep water, breaking one anchor, and leaving the othv r
witli a lump of chain on the rock. Then w^e wen' full
Sliced ahead up-stream, and baled away with fi e
buckets, as our lives depended upon it. We ran both
boats on to a sandy beach on the mainland, half a mile
above the scene of jur disaster. That puff of wind just
came in time, and saved us. Had we sunk, probably the
Florida would have been wrecked too. In any case
most of the ammunition, and all the European provisions
and stuff to buy food, would have been lost in the
Stanley. I thanked God, not once but a good many
times, tliat we got out of it as well as we did. The
view passing Kwamouth is very pretty. The Kwa,
whicli is really only the mouth of the Kassai Uiver
(which runs into it), is the largest tributiuy of the
Congo, being navigable for over 400 miles,

l\Iaii 7th. — Up at daylight, but very sleepy. The
Ileiiri/ Reed appeared in the mirage, down river, about
S.oO A.M., so we sent our pilot off in a canoe, to warn
tlioin about the rock, as tliey were steering straight for
ir. Mucli later we saw the Peace going along close in
to the opposite shore ; we signalled, and the Henry
liLcd whistled, and they came acr')ss to us. Mr. Stanley,

ISS7.
May ('.,

Ci ^n^^^^
River.

III

. (

■i''

.'.-v'Si*

STORY OF THE UK All COLUMN.

1887.
May 7.

Congo
River.

of course, Mas mthor annoyed at our disaster, and told
tlie Captain lie liad no business to come over to this side
of tlie river, hut he replied that this side was the course
marked on his chart, and explained to him by C'a])t!iiii
Anderson, the hite conimander of the Stanle;/, and tliiit
the missionaries also used the same course. IVIr. Staulcv
then took in hand the directions for patchin«jj up (In
steamer, and the ('a|)tain and the three enpncers carried
them out. We tirst of all removed all the car<j;(), and
swunpj her round side on to the beach, then du<2j a trench
"with hoesrifi^ht under her to the lari^est of the holes. \
})late was pass(;d throu«i;h the water on to the outside niid
screwed on by bolts. Little hopes of startin<]j to-monow,
!Mr. Stanley said to-day that every day of delay cost
the Ex})editiou £25 in wages to the men alone.

' . -1* .■ ■
•:.•■■■■ ^'f*'-.

JiA

.slit '-v

.t.'A/^.x'

'fTn';^' .

riTii ■far I—— v^- 1"'

V s^* ^4 ^ ***** iHlfciil^

KWAMOUTIT.

Ma}j Sfh. — INlr. Stanley, the Captain, and engines
worked away until about 8 o'clock at the leaks witli ;i
good deal of success.

J/r/// 9M. — I.oading up the Stanley ready for a stiirt
in the morning, JNlr. Stanley and the engineers finislitd

j)iilliiig the
I'xilobo at 12

Mail 10///.
lifiil. ' Tlic 1
(lotted all ov
toliiigc. At
the still wat(
>(cii moving
above the w
o'cese were
aiid white ea
and again g
out of the 1
tnmhling ovc
colours glitt(
dart (Hit, hov
|iarendy dive
pensively ga/
cranes stood
c()nt(Mn])lati()i
TluMi a heavy
of wliich the
with a backg
and one longi
people at hor
\illages of br
of th(> ])lanti
them, the ca
tishing-nets 1
with s])ear in
snhjeets for t

Maji nth.
sitnated, looL
river. Foum
first tii7ic sa"s\
to meet. Th
Traordinary fi
tlie forehead
I lie eves. O

,:- -^i^

DIARY.

jrCCSC

puttiiiu: tlir ])liit('s on l)y 11 ()'(;l()ck ; the former left for

|{,,I„i)() at I2.:;(i.

Mdij \i)fh. — To-day tine scoiicry bccaiiH^ very boan-
tii'iil. I 111' river widened to jil)out four miles, and was
(l()tt(«(l all over with small islands eover(»(l with tropical
tnliiiU'e. At th(» l)a('k of every sandbank or island, in
the still water, tlie heads of the hi|)|)o])otami conld l)t3
seen iiiovini; up and down, or their Ion*;* backs jnst
above tlie water restini;' on the banks. ^lUnilxMs of
were W5idin<if on the shores, while lar«^e black
and white ea<;les soared from island to island, and (>\('r
and aii'uin ^or«;-eous bee-eaters and kin<i;tishers darted
out of the forest, the bee-eaters hawkin<»; away, then
nnnhlinii; over and tloatin<^ iiwjiy to anotluu* tr(>e, their
(olours <^litterin<;' in the sun. The kin«i:tishers would
(lavt out, hover for a moment over the water, then a])-
parcntly dive into it, to return to their p(Tch, and sit
pensively i;a/in<»; down at the river below them. I^artijc
(laiios stood solemnly on the banks, absorbiMl in the
(•()ntein])l}ition of some deep and monuMitous subject.
Then a heavy thunderstorm passed over us, in the midst
(if which the far shore stood out in bri<>ht sunlii>ht,
with a backjjjround of ex(piisite nnnintains and valleys,
and one lon<>'ed for the skill of an artist to i^'ive to the
jK^ople at home an idea of this mai^'nificent river. The
villiif^es of brown huts, embedded in the i^'or^-eous i>'reen
of the ])lantains, with «»-iant trees towering- all around
tlicin, the canoes lyin«>' on the sandy beach, with the
tishin,i>-nets hnni»; out to dry, here and ther(^ a native
with s])ear in hand — all these scenes furnished splendid

subjects for the artist — who is not with us
J\r(ni Wfh. — Arrived at Bololx), Avliich

>ttily
)f the

situated, lookin<»' over one of the broadest ])arts o
ii\er. Found fresh buffalo-tracks to-day, and for the
first time saw the crested guinea-fowl which I expected
to meet. The natives here })aint tluMnselves in an ex-
traordinary fashion, some havini;- a black band across
the forehead with white lines drawn over and under
the eyes. Others have long white lines running- down

1KS7.

Mii^ 9.

ivcr.

• It

^lil

STDliV OF Till-: ]ii:Alt COLUMN.

Miiy II.
Uulobo.

, 1

tlic sliouldcrs and iiniis, luid tlic snnic down tlic foicliciul
and n()s(». Soino of tlic lines nrc blue and yellow tor ;i
variety. The knives and ax(^s are v(My tine, hnt tlicy
will not part with them. Their s))(Mirs n'senihle the
Mashona s])ears. 'I'lieir <jjnns are old tlint-iniiskets.

Mf(t/ Vlth. — The Ilrnry Reed arrived with th(» Pence
in tow. Mr. StanU^y eame to the otli('(«rs' tent in tlic
afternoon, and had a lon«jj chat with ns. lie is «i;oin^
to reort^anize all the e()ni|)anies, and only take on the
best men, leavin<^ the had ones here with Major
Barttelot to come on wlien tlie Stanlef/ retnrns down
the river. Had to go otf very early to cut wood for the
tStunlcy.

j\f(if/ VMh. — "Wc arc arc all going to be put on short
rations now; -jounce of tea a day for each man, and
everything else in ]n*()])ortion. IVlajor IJarttelot is to
come on to the entrenched camp after all, and AN'ai'd is
to be left here. I feel very sorry for him, as up to tlic
very last moment he thought he was going on. Mr.
Bonnv is also beiny; left here, (iood news ! Mr. Stanley
has given mc leave to start at daybreak to-morrow for a
butfalo hunt, and get meat for the men.

Majj 14^/i. — After about three and a half hours' walk-
ing, 1 came upon one of the most lovely valleys for game
I think 1 have ever seen or dreamt of, and in any othor
country but this it would sim])l) swarm. A few chnnps
of trees grew here and then^ close to some ])o()ls of
water, the rest of the valley being covered with luxuriant
grass, amongst which shone out patches of tender gnu'ii,
where it had once been burnt. After walking about a
mile up along the ])o()ls, I came across the tracks of a
bull buffalo, two cows and a calf, wliich had evidently
passed just before I arri\ed on the scene. I tracked
them until after 1 o'clock into the middle of a dense
forest, so thick that I had to leave mv helmet and uo
down on my lumds and knees, and crawl nearly every
yard of the road. I heard tliem break once quite close
to me, but could not see them. Finally I gave it up,

niAUY,

and trirfl tlio rest of tlio valley witlioiif fin(lin«? a sin«,^l('
jVcsli triirk. J l)r()k(^ one* of my Iti-^^-toc nails, li^Mit
;i(i(tss tJM' vtMy fciitrc, a<^ainst a stimij) in the beastly
uood, iiiid had to walk tlie six or seven miles hacdv to
{iiin|) in anything bnt a nic(» frame of mind, I was
niviitlv sin|»rised to find tli(» Sfnvhii had jnst arrived
with l>:iittelot and Parke, for we did not e\|)(»rt theni
until to-iiiorrow. Mr. Stanley has rearranged all tho
(((ni|';inies, and min(? is entirely broken n|) ; he has
tiiken a lot of the l)est men from n(»arly every company
to niiike n|) his own to its full stren<j;th. Mine was
used to till np the others, so at present I am without
one. ^^"e all start to-morrow.

M((}l \^)th. — Alas for all my bri<;ht dreams about the
muicli from the Falls to Wadelai. To-day Mr. Stanley
infoniied me that I was to be left with Major Barttelot
in command of the entrenched camj) on tlie Aruwimi.
Of course he tried to soften {\\v matter as much as he
|i()ssil)ly could, by tellinj;' me that as most of the ammu-
litiou and stores were beinp^ left here, he recpiired two
of tlie best men to remain and guard them, for if any-
thiiiL? ha])pened to them the whole K\i)edition "would be
lit ail end. He also told me that the men who went on
iiuist not think that they would havc^ the lari>er share
of honour; but whatever he may say about it, it makes
me mad to think of it. When he told me, I merely
replied "Very well. Sir," as I knew that somebody must
1)0 left. I am quite sure that Major IJarttelot had
already asked him to leave me with him as his lieu-
tdiaiit, his chief reason bein<>- that he was afraid he
would not pull s well with some of the other officers.
It is fri<.i:litfully hai d luck on me. Mr. Stanley told me
to get a canoe, and find out as much as I ]>ossibly could
about the river. The natives are a bad lot, and I
behove we will have to fi<i-ht for food for tlie men by
lootiuix villai2;es. The bri<>-ht side of the whole thin<i; is
the splendid opportunity it i^ives me of collectiiij;' in a
couutiy never collected in before, and altoi^ether, as fr.r
as I can make out, we shall have rather an excitinij^ time
of it.

M,iy 14
li'.lobo.

'.' ^'1! ;(

\ i

i'!;i

I I

STORY OF THE BEAR COLUMN.

1887.
May 15.

Bolobo.

! I,

[j'Mmet from letter to his luife, Jn.w Sth, 1887:--
" llo (Stanlov) also told mo tliat those, who wont on first
"to the Albert Nyanza Lako, mnst not tliink that ^]m-
"had ono atom movo hononr attached to wliat they did,
" as he himself wonld he the only one to meet Eiiiin
" I'asha in his steamers on the Lake ; the others would
" be left in a camp (m its shores."]

The Peace started first this morninc^, then the Tlenrii
l^eed, and lastly onrselves in the Stanley. "SNe madt
fast to the shore at a villaj^e abont twelve miles ah(ne
Bolobo, and when Stairs and Nelson landed with tlu
axe-men, it seems the natives did not want to let tlieiii
<^i, tliron<j;li the village. Some of the men ran l)U(k
yellin<j; ont that the natives were coming, and to biiiii;
all the guns, liarttelot thought tliey were being at-
tacked, so he landed all the Soudanese and a box of
ammunition, but on getting up into the village not a
native was to ))e seen ; tliey had all run aAvay. When
the Soudanese returned to the shore, tliey made a riisii
across a small stream to the village on the opposite
side, followed by the Zanzibaris, when an awful scene
of loot commenced. They seized goats, fowls, bananas,
manioc, spears, and everytliing that they could lay
their hands on. I saw one man with an enormous
wooden stool which he could not possibly have taken
witli him on the stc^amer, and I caught a Somali iimI-
liauded with an immense bundle of manioc and a s[)cai :
I smote him rather hai'd and he dropped the lot. Tlie
s]iear I attaclied to my ]>erson. The river to-day
widened out very much, l)eing dotted ovci' with small
and large islands. I am trying hard to look at the
bright side of my being left at the entrenched camp—
the collecting, sketching and figliting — but 1 cannot L>et
over a thorough feeling of disa})pointinent.

3Iaii iCitli. — Jvst as we were leaving the natives l)euaii
to return, and were in a fearful rat'e when tliev missed
their tilings, though some of them were willing to trade.
and we got a ihw fish and bananas from them.

^'■^

fid

} u

) •!

' r

■I

'*J»>^^

FisiiEKMAN's Hut. [Page 47,]

Maf/ 17 fh
over liiilf an
tlic wood-cai
the coiisequc

Jf(f//lSth.
wv made fasi
wliicli liad a
and tlic rivci
tree ^v]lic•h s

stcauiiiii^'foi"
within l-")0
Staii's and B;
tlic noise in
([nick mareli
of both elej)h
SidiiU'ii start
liead well n]>
or three time
into the bus
The Doctor ci
goodness, I a

May 20th
that tlie mos
hai)j)ened bet
It a|)|)ears tin
and chiefs Ave
officers Inid if
Stanley sent i
the food from
looted (for dc
of that day, "
assuiin<i; him
tlienuand seni
It is still (jiiit(
the Zanzibarij'
men, and win
^■rong- end of

DIARY.

3ff(>/ llth. — Very soody. Last m<?lit I liad to staiul
over lialf an hour in water above my ankl(^s waiting' for
tilt' Avood-carriers, who could not find iis in tlu^ dark,
the consequence of which is a bad internal chill.

Jfd/jlSth. — Too seedy to do anything. This cnening
\\c made fast to the shore at a little fisherman's hut,
which had a re<»'ular ])alisade and ti;ateway betw(HUi it
1111(1 the river. Our only hope of wood was a l<ir<;'e dead
tree Avhich stood inside the palisade.

J/c/y l{)fh. — Still seedy. Reached T^ukuh^la, after
stcainiui;' for twelve hours. We saw two small elepliants
within !•")() yards of the steamer in the loni;- i»Tass.
Stairs and liarttelot landed and tried to <j;et a shot, but
the noise from the steamer had sent them away at a
(|iiick march. Tliey saw any (piantity of fresli tracks
of both elepliant and buffalo. It is <>Teat fun to see tlie
Sf/ni I ('// iit'dvt in the mornin*^; ; before they can i>et her
head well u])-stream, slie waltzes round and round two
or three times, sticking her stern and bows alternately
into the bushes, exactly like a toy boat in a stream.
The Doctor came on board to-night and saw me. Thauk
•roodness, I am much better.

Mni/ 2{)th. — This morning, I am sorry to say
that tlie most disgraceful row I luive ever heard of
happened between Mr. Stanley and Jephson and Stairs.
It a})pears that early this morning a number of the men
and chiefs Avent to Mr. Stanley, and complained tluit the
officers had ilung away their rations for one day. Mr.
Stanlev sent for Stairs. The men swore they had bought
the food from the natives last Sunday at the village tliey
looted (for description of how they hoiUfJit it, se(! diary
of that day. May loth). Stairs told Mr. Stanley tliis,
assui'ing him that only stolen stuff was taken away from
tlicm, and sent for J{»plison, who gave tlie same testimony.
It is still (pdte evident tliat Mr. Stanley takes tlie word of
the Zaiizil)aris (m every occasion before tliat of tlie wliite
men, and wlien lie saw that he had hold of rather the
^Tong end of this stick, lie attacked them aboul (heir

1887.
May 17.

Congo
River.

STOliY OF Till': HEAR COLUMN.

1887.
May 2().

Lukulela.

tyrniiny to tlio men. TFo attacked them in a frantic
stat(% stamping; \\\) and down tho dock of the Peace.
lie called ,Ie])lis()n all sorts of names, a " G — d d — n son

" of a sea-cook," " Yon d d ass, yon're tired of mc, ot

" the Expedition, and of my men. Go into the bnsh, <>(.t^
"I've done with yon. And yon too, Lientenant Stairs,
" yon and 1 will part to-day ; yon're tired of me. Sir, I can
"see. Get: away into the bnsh." Then he tnrned round
to the men (about 100) sittinfjj down, and spoke Swaliili
to the effect that the men were to obey us no more, and
that if Lieutenant Stairs or Jephson issued any orders to
them, or dared to lift a hand, they were to tie them n])
to trees. He had already told Stairs that he had only
to lift his hand for the men to throw him into the sea.
He lastly offered to fi^'ht Jephson, " If yon want to fi<i;lit.
" G — d d — n yon, I'll give yon a bellyful. If I wcic
" only where you are, I'd go for yon. It's lucky for you
" I'm v.here I am." Mr. Stanley was on the deck of tlio
Peace., Jephson on shore. All this was said before the
missionaries, Tippu-Tib, and every one. As for Stairs
or Jephson being tired of the Expedition, no men could
work harder or have their hearts more in it. I should
think a repetition of this kind of thing would make them
both pretty sick of Mr. Stanley and the Expedition. He
also called Jephson, " G — d d — d impudent puppy. "
Barttelot next interviewed him, and he told him that lie
W'as very sorry for Stairs, but had made up his mind
they should stay w^here they were — that there w-as evi-
dently a compact among us against him. Barttelot
assured him that there was nothing of the kind. Stairs
next went to him, and after a long interview it ended
in Mr. Stanley taking him back, and telling him that he
had given oi'ders to the chiefs to obey him as before.
Imagine this being necessary, simply from what he had
himself said to them! Jephson went last, and the
interview ended by Mr. Stanley apologizing for tlu'
laiignage he had used, and taking him back also. I liad
no Idea until to-day what an extremely dangerous man
S(rinL\v was. C Duld there be anything more incitin«i
to mutiny than what he had told the Zanzibaris ? He for-

rr(>ts one thiu!
to one of us t
which would
furiiHis fact,
men who com!
orders, issued]
severely fiogg(
l)(>l>'iuning to f1
Mr. Stanley, .1
quite the bigj
mutilated. (-
civsted lory;
carrv it becau
liornbill. The
timber, and th
ao-aiust the d
beautiful pictu

Mail list.—
the Peace and
tlie wood was
Mr. Stanley's o
I keep within si|
n-oing wrong,
t'orencxm ; a lit
which came or
run short. Th
l/i it is 4 P.M., an
1 1 between us. 1
ferent routes,
This is keepii
vengeance !

May 22nd.
were passing
scenery. Om*
tliat seemed to
the forest, the
now and again
river covered v
now, and even

K.S?

.■?■
1 :4.

^'h ^.„

lie
iiid
'vi-
>l{)t
lirs

DIARY

ail

11 ii

or-

-I

rrcts one thine:, liowovor, that if thoy flmod to lift a hand
t'o Olio of ns thoiv wonhl bo a tcMrihlo h)t of them shot,
which wonhl rathor weaken his I'Apedition. It is a
curious fact, when one tliinks over it, that tlio very
nicii wlio coin])lained to Mr. Stanley oui;ht, by his own
orders, issued when wc left the Pool, to have been
s(>v(M'clv tioi^ijed. Sneli is life! Thank «>-()odness, I am
l)('<;iiiiiini;' to feel myself a«>-ain. On his way back from
Mr. Stanlev, Jephson broni;ht mc an enonnons spider,
quite the biijjgest I have even- seen, although rather
mutilated. One of the men bvou<>lit me a sidendid
crested lory ; I skinned it, bnt am ])uzzled how to
caiTV it because of its size, which is about that of a
lionibill. The villai^-e here stands amidst beautiful
timber, and the huts shine out like gold in the sunset
au'ainst the dark shadows of the forest, making a
beautiful ]:>icture.

Maij "list. — We did not start for a good hour after
the Fence and llcnvj/ Kcrd^ the engineer said because
tlie wood was too wet, and they could not get iq) steain.
Mr. Stanley's orders were that all the steamers were to
keep within sight of each other in case of anything
i;oiug wrong. We came in sight of them early in tlie
tbiciUKm; a little later they stopped because of a storm
whicli came on, and we stop])ed to cut wood, ha\ ing
run short. They have now^ both gone on out of siglr ;
it is 4 P.M., and I sliould think there must be mil >
h(>tween us. The Henry Beed and the Peace took ( -
t'crent routes, and we are staying here for the nii;iiC.
'lliis is keeping within sight of one another wit' a
vengeance !

May 22nd. — Until about 12 o'clock to-d; we
were passing through the most lovely tropical forest
scenery. Our ]:)assage lay through long lanes of water,
that seemed to be cut like canals through the centra' of
the forest, the right bank being the mainland. K\ ery
now and again we could catch a glimpse oi the gn^at
river covered with islands. The rainy season has sc'* m
nu^v, and every afternoon, as regulaily as chx'kwork, at

1S87.
M:xy 'JO.

Congo
River.

i . s I

itH

;, r

r •,

!i 1

STORY OF TllK RKAR COLUMS.

1387.
May 132.

Congo
River.

three or four o'clock, up comes a storm which Lists
until niglitfall.

May 2o?v/.— Started at S.oO well ahead of the Ilmn
Reed and Peace^ wliicli we liad cauglit up yestenJay
evening, ])ut ours was a short-lixed glory, for we very
soon ran short of wood, and at 11 o'clock had to stop
and cut some. Started again at 2 o'clock, and steamed

until i) o'clock. More woodcutting, dinner, and
bed. It is beginning to be decidedly monotonous.

Mai/ 2'ifh. — We all reached Equator Station shortly
after 5 o'clock. This is one of the nicest looking stations
we liave yet seen. We have been passing numerous
native villages very prettily situated on the edge of the
f(n'est, and of which the huts are now changing in sliape
altogether, and a good many of them are stockaded.
Some are very long, with angular-shaped roofs, and
many doors to them. Tlie spears, too, have changed in
shape ; they are very light in shaft and blade, being
used for throwing only, Avliereas those lower down the
river are heavy-bladed and are used for stabbing. The
palm-trees here are curiously ragged in appearance,
owing to the attacks of the weaver-birds, who haye
stripped them of almost all their leaves, with which
they build their nests on other trees. The natives are
a finer-looking people, resembling the Bangalas I saw
at the Pool. I was delighted to hear that the Peacf
had to stop and cut wood as well as ourselves, for Mr,
Stanley had been blaming us for loitering on the road.

2fai/ 2bth. — Went on shore early with the axemen to
cut wood. In the afternoon, Mr. Glave, who now
belongs to the Sanford Expedition*, came on board, and
asked us all to dine. He was formerly in the service
of the Free State, but has left it like many more, as rats
leave a sinking ship. I notice that one of the chief occu-
pations of the Belgian officers at the different stations is
to civilize the country by adding to the population

* The Sanford Expedition was an Ivory Trading? Company, called the
Sanford Kxidoring Company ; vide ' Darkest xiliica,' vol. i. p. !K}.— Ed,

DiAitr.

s])('(imcns of half-broods, as tlioy aro all moro or loss
inairiod to iiativo womoii. This mode of civili/ation
scHMiis to be adoptod by all tho whito mon horo, whothor
otticcrs of tho State or not. I saw some beautiful porch,
almost exactly like our own. ^V^e dinod with Mr.
(ilavc, and during dinner Captain Van (iolo related a
story about some wonderful river, a tributary of the
Coii'^o, which he had been ex])l()rini»;, and from which
ho had brought some ivory mallets, used for crushing
corn or manioc. He ])roduced them, and was greatly
annoyed when both Dr. Parke and I declared them to
bo honc^ and not ivory at all ! This, I am sorry to say,
(lamped the conversation. The ivory here is very large
indood. Amongst a lot bought by Glave for the San-
ford Expedition were tusks of 118, 111, 97, 95, and
90 lbs. Much of it is greatly discoloured through
having been buried. He only paid "Is. 2d. a lb. for the
118 lb. tusk, which is a fairly white one.

Ma)/ 26M. — Steamed all day through the u,,n .1 num-
ber of wooded islands. Close to where we made fast
for the night was a small bare sandbank, inhabited by
a small colony of the most beautiful terns I have ever
seen. The top of the head, neck, and back are all
black ; throat, breast, and belly are pure white ; bill and
legs red. They are, I think, similar to two which I
observed at Stanley Pool. As I had no small boat, I
could not get a shot. AVe had the usual woodcutting
business in the jungle, became covered as usual with
the ants, and later on up came the usual thunderstorm.
Mr. Stanley's orders are that we are not to go ahead of
the Peace, and the Henry Reed has to obey the same
orders. Mr. Stanley has ordered Parke to come on with
us in the Stanley, and Jephson to take his place in the
Henrji Heed, because he says there are so many sick on
the Stanley and Florida. However that may be, it
seems a mistake putting Jephson on the same steamer
with Tippu-Tib and his men, as he i.as already had one
rather nasty row with Salem, Tippu's brother-in-law.

May 27th. — After a verv short piece of steaming and

E 2

1887.
May •-'.-).

Kqiuitor
Stution.

,1'

STORY OF THE REAR COrj'MN

1887.
May 27.

Uriinga.

<jj()in<j; fii_i>;htfnlly slowly to keep bcliind the Peace, no
roached Umiifjjii at lO.:)!) a.m. Mr. Stanley is a " blood,
brother " of the chief of this ])lace. I try every coiicciv.
able ])laii to protect my speciineris from the ants, l)ut
tliou^h I may succeed for a short time \\\v\ arc sure to
defeat me at last, I noticed many of the spears here ic.
seml)le the Mashona ones, having' a lon<ij ])iece of iron
between the blade and the ordinary Avooden shaft, wliich
hitter is bound round by rinj^'s of iron ; they also haveihc
leaf-shaped blade. I unintentionally swindledan old chief
out of a jjfoat, Ijut it sei'ved hiui ri;;ht, as he swindled iiio
al)out a sj)ear wliich I l)()Ui;ht IVom him with cloth.
knowing' that I was i^iviuij: too much ; but as I wanted it
badly I did not wrangle over the price. He then said lie
Would make mea])resent ofa ijjoat, which in this couiitiy
means that I had to ^ive him a ])resent in return. I told
him I did not want it ; but when I cauie back, late in the
eveniuii^, it had l)een sent on board. After dinner lie
came and made a jjjieat fuss, saying he must have the
goat or a present. Nelson, Avho was on deck, turned
him off. We started just after daybreak, and he tried
to board us with his canoe, instead of cominiu; for his
present before we got under way. "NVe left him in the
niddle of the river, evidently using anything but nice
ii r,guage. He will be rather chary of giving presents
agttin, and we will eat the goat, which seems fat.

May 2Sth. — A most monotonous day's steaming. I
am sorry to say I have read nearly all our small store
of books.

Mm/ 20th. — Islands, river, scenery, natives, canoes,
&c., just the same as yesterday. The only excitement
was caused by a troop of large brown monkeys who
appeared on some trees on the banks, and who seemed
not to be the least bit frightened at the steamer, but
went on scratching and hunting as though nothing out
of the common was near them. Stopped for the night
on an island op})osite Bolombo.

Mat/ oOth. — Numbers of natives in canoes came rcmud
the steamers, trying to persuade us to stop at Colombo

DIAHV.

jiiiu trade for food ; but ns Ihoko, or naii<.^al;i, was oidy a
ivw lioiirs alu'Jid i\\vYv was not inucli cliaiice of that.
J)()l()iul)o is oil the south hunk, and Ihoko on tlie north
hank of the rivcM*. Wo arrived at the hitter j)hiee at
12. o<). Mr. Stanley was saluted from the Station hy
shots from one of tlio Krup]) ii;uus, of wliieh they have
two. 'llie lloussas and /anzil)aris wen^ drawn up in a
line, and the excitement on shore was intense^ to know
what on earth so many steamers and people had come
for. They thou<xht it was an K\j)edition to retake the
Falls, as they had not heard any news for four months.
The Station, which is the hist, and one of the lar^'ost on
the C"on,i4"o, consists of three white buildinjijs, constructed
of mud, ])laster, and stick walls, with a thatched roof,
heiieath which is built, I believe, a solid ceiliui^ of
mud to prevent it fallin<^-in in case of tiro. A French-
mini here, by trade a brickmakor, has utilized all the
different kinds of clay to bo found on the shore, with
which he has constructed re<jjular brick sheds, yjirds, and
kilus ; when I saw tliem there were BOO, 000 bricks,
principally on the floors, but one very lar<^e kiln was
already made and burnin*:;. The women liere dress in
quite a difl'erent way to any I have yet seen, their cos-
tume being comjiosed of a light band of palm-fibres,
made from the bark, and dyed — some orange, some
leuKHi and orange, others black or deep lake-rod ; they
I()(;k for all the world like a ballet-dancer's skirts. Both
men and women are a very flne-looking race. The new
Station is defended by three palisades and a ditch ; at
the corners are raised platforms for the Kru])p guns.
There is the making of a good garden, which is the
result of Mr. Bailey's teaching, who seems to have
tanyht them more; than half of what thev know on the
Con^'o, especialh' in matters connected with sport,
ii'ardening, and jilanting. Mons. Baert give us dinner
ill the evening, after which Mr. Stanley rose, and in a
speech proposed the health of the King of the IhOgians.
He began by telling us of the state liangala and the
otlier places on the river were in when he passed down
ton years ago, and had the great fight with the natives
liere. He continued: — ''Now here I fiiifl an hotel

1SH7.
May .'50,

Jillllgillu.

'i\

V ii

(

I Ii

! 1-

STORY OF TIIH UKAR COLUMX.

1887.
Mu.v .'«).

liivngulii.

11!

(doubtful compliiTKMit to the Bclifiaus, who call it a Fici
State station !), wlicro one ran liavo a jjjood bod, fjood
diuntM', and evcrytliinj^ tluit ono wants." J Ic then traced
how this was all owin^- to th(> Kin«j^of the Bolivians, aiul
went on to say that we were here at the very last point
of civilization between us and Zanzibar. The s])e(>(li
ended by his ])ro])osin^ the healtli of the King of the
Belgians, which was duly drunk.

Major Harttelot, with forty of the best of the Souda-
nese, goes on to Stanley Falls in the Ilenrj/ lieedy wluMe
he leaves 'ri])])u-Tib, and comes u]) the Aruwimi to
where we are to make the entrenched camp, about I2li
miles up the river. The reason that Stanley is sendiii<r
the Soudanese instead of the /anzibaris, is tliat he fcius
that if they saw Tippu's ])lace and })e()ple, the discon-
tented ones would come back to the camp, and persuadu
the others to desert us ; as, should they once get to
Tip])u-Tib's camp, it would be a simple matter for them
to ^vt out to Zanzibar with one of his caravans, oi
find em])loyment in some of his towns. The tribes on
the Aruwimi are very fierce and warlike, and are real
cannibals, so they will be rather interesting to study,
Mr. Stanley is the only white man who has been any
distance up the river, and I believe he has not been so
far as where we intend to make our cam]).

Captain Hansen, in the Free State service, left thrro
of his Houssas at one of the towns near the mouth of
the Aruwimi, and the natives tied them to trees, and
crammed them with food until they considered them
sufficiently fat, when they ate two of them, but the
third, being a thin old fellow, was reserved. J low-
ever, he escaped, and was caught and tied up again;
this ha]i]iened twice, but the third time he got away to
the river, and was ])icked up by one of the steaniei^.
The same curious appearance is given to the palm-trees
here as at Equator Station, by the weaver-birds stri[)piii;i'
off all the leaves for their nests, which they have built
on a large tree wdthout any leaves in the centre of the
Station. The hi])po})otami are becoming very scarce ; a\c
have hardly seen one since leaving Equator Station.

^i*Xwi iwl—jiH

a Fifv

traced
lis, ami
t point

S]J(Ht1i
of till.

Soiida-

iini to
lit 1-ili

L'll(lill(r

e fcais
liscoii.
rsuadu
^■('t to
f thorn

LllS, 01

)es on
e real
study,
m any
jeii s(i

thlTO

ith of
, and
them
t the
\ low-

g-ani;

DIARY.

1H«7.
May ;U.

^rnii ?>\sf.—'V\\v Ucnn/ licfd loft for the Falls, witli
\|;ijor liarttclot and Tij)!)!!-'!'!!), at a.m. .Mr. Stanley ^■„„|^„
Ict'r ill the Pcaif at noon. Our www strolled on hoard Hiver.
(Videiitly jnst as they ])loase(l, and we did not ^et
iiwav for a jjfood hour and a half after him. Since
that speech of liis to them at Lukulela they hav{3 lost
what little sense* of disci|)line they ever had. We all
lunched with iMons. Jiaert, and a capitul lunch he

o;iV(' US.

Major Barttclot left nineteen of the Soudanese and
Alexander (one of the interpreters) in my cliari;c until
he arrives at the Aruwimi camp. Alexander and four
others are in a very had state, and one of the men espe-
( ially I do not expect to live; more than a few days.
They are the most helpless and di^sponding lot of men
when they are at all sick that I ever came across. I
riied to huy a very curious knife from one of the Han-
i^idas this mornini^, hut he asked such an absurd ])rice
fur it that I told him he ought to keep it at home for
tear of losing it. The Captain tcld us to-day that
at Manyanga, on the lower Congo, a hip])o that was on
sliore was fired at, and, charging through the village,
ran dean through the middle of the walls of a house on
to the roof of which a lot of people had retreated.

Jme 1st. — Kept steaming away all day behind the
Peace until nearly sunset. Went to bed with a distinct
touch of fever.

June 2nd. — Had to lie up all day.

June ord. — Bad night ; had to lie up again all day,
liiit got better towards evening, thanks to old Parke,
who has given me the right medicine to begin with,
and t()p})ed it up with arrowroot, milk, and brandy.
Tliere are enormous quantities of orchilla-weed all
along the south bank, and for the last three days we
have passed through one continuous stream of the
common white butterfly of the Congo, all migrating
from the south bank to the north. A day or t\\'o before
1 saw them crossing the river I noticed them tiying

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Sciences

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. US80

(716) 873-4903

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HTOny OF THE HEAR COLUMN.

1887.
June 3.

Congo
River.

thi()u<^h the trees on the south bank

in enormoni?

nunil)eis, and all jj;oin«^ eastward in tlie same directinii
as ourselves ; then suddenly tliey Ix'Li^an to cross in
thousands, and have been crossin*^ ever since.

a<j;nin,

June Ath. — Thank fjoodness, feel myself
Steamed away all day throu<2:h the same monotonous
scenery, althousjjh I must say some of the i2jor<:;o()iis
C()l()urin<]j can never seem anytliiniij l)ut fresh and ])l('iis.
ini; to the eye. A few mcndveys looked at us, and
hel|)ed to relieve the monotony of tlie scene. We
never mana«»;ed to catch u]) the Peace. The first hi])|)()s
we liave seen for ;i lonj:; time came u]i close to the
steamer after we had made fast for the ni^lit, and Parke
had a shot at one of them, but put the bullet just ovcm-
his liead. After he fired I noticed a very larjije fiii»;ht of
birds, all flyings due south, and from their form and
fiiijht, seen in the dusky lifjjht, they a])])eared to be
medium-sized owls. Tlie fli<>ht continued for quite
twenty minutes. One of the Somalis died to-day ; he
had only been ill about twenty-four hours.

Sunday^ June hth. — Started very early — almost in tlie
dark — in hopes of catchiiifj; up the Peace ; this >ve failed
to do. One of the Soudanese died to-day, the sec(Mul
death amon^i^st them since leavinj^ Baiifj^ala. When they
once ^et sick they neither eat, drink, nor move ; in fact,
like the Somalis, they simply make up their minds to
die. I saw many very fine orchids in the junf>le to-day,
but none of them in flower, and one beautiful fern
growin<^ high \\\^ in the palm-trees. The leaves of it
grow outwards for only a few inches, and then han^'
straight down in perfect masses round the trunk of
the ])alm. This would be a most effective plant iu a
European hothouse.

June C^tli. — Quite an exciting day. ISfade an early
start, and after going through the most difficult ])assaucs
between islands and sandbanks, we at last (;ame within
siglit of U]K)t(), which stands at the foot of the first hiiili
ground we have seen for some time. No signs of either

DIARY.

the Prace or tlio Jleun/ Beedl There were three s(»])a-
rato villages some distance ajiart, so we steamed ii)) to
tlir one hii^hest np river, to see if tlie steamers could be
there, ^»ot lindin<i; them, we made for tlie middle
villai^e, and n])(m our apjn'oach to land, all the natives
rushed down to the shore with their sjx'ars, sliields, and
uuns, yelling and shouting at us to keep back. Tliey
(•eitainly meant an attack, so we started for the lowest
village, tlie natives following us and running along the
shore, wliere they were joined by all the men of the
third village. As wood was very short, and we nuist
iret food for the men, we ran the steamer straiglit for
shore, and they all stood about forty yards off, making
a terrific noise. Tliey at length listened to our s])okes-
mau, and agreed to allow us to land if one of the wliite
men would come on shore and be made blood-brother
to their cliief. Stairs and the Captain of the steamer
landed, and the ceremony was performed with much
pom]). Stairs' arm was slightly cut until blood came,
and the chief's also, then the bleeding ])arts were rubbed
together, each man swearing to be a "" true brother " to
the other. All this time a wild song was kept up by
the natives, beer was drunk, and the chief sent us a
present of a goat. The fierce natives of half an hour
ago were in one moment transformed into the shar))est
and most eager traders, ready to sell everything they
])ossessed. What little modesty one has left, after see-
ing daily so many naked forms, here received rather a
shock, for the women are as Eve was before she went
to Madame Figuier for her costumes. There were a few
exceptions among the elder women, but their attem])ts
at dress are so much of a failure that they had far better
remain as their sisters. The people here are the genuine
savage, without a vestige of civilization. I bought throe
very curious knives, two handsome s])ears, ai.d a shield,
Mhicli, if they ever reach home, will be great curiosities.
In the afternoon up steamed the I'eace. Mr. Stanley
was in a fearful rage. It appears that after missing us
vesterdav he steamed back down river to look for us,
therebv losini): a whole dav. He told us that had he

ls«7.

Jimi' t>.
Upoto.

Hi-

^ It,

\i^l

STOJiV OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
June n.

Upoto.

not found the steamer here, he would luivc treated us
all as deserters. Now this is hardly fair, as from what
the Captain and Enjijineer of the Peace both say it is
evident that he missed us owin^ to a fault of his own.
He mistook a channel of the main river for a small river
which he thought ran into the Congo at this place. He
therefore steamed away outside an island when we wcMit
up the passage along the mainland. He used some ven

hard words whilst talking to us, and it seems as if he
did not trust us when one yard away from him. As for
myself, I know I have done nothing, but then I have
been so seedy until yesterday; but the other officers

have worked away as hard as any white man can, stand-
ing for hours in the most horrible swamps till long after
dark to get enough wood. What sickens one of tlie
whole thing is the utter distrust which Mr. Stanley
plainly tells us he has of us all ; and how long this state
of things is going to last I cannot tell, but it is frightfully

DiAitr.

dislioartening. The necklaces in fashion here are
mostly of human or crocodile teeth, whicli are bored
mid liung in larsje numbers on a piece of string ; the
earriiif^s worn by men, instead of the women, are of
cowrie-shells. They had a lot of ivory to sell at absurdly
low prices, but all very small and discoloured. Their
huts, which are miserable, are built in small streets at
ri«rlit angles to the river-bank. Had an interesting chat
witli Mr. Charters of the Peace^ who confirmed in every
i)[U'ticular the story of the Houssas being eaten at
Basoko.

June 1th. — The war-like natives of yesterday are
Dcaceful traders now, coming up with a shield and ^ear
jn one hand, and two eggs or a fowl in the other, and
|)c«r(ring one to buy. Mr. Stanley told them that had
thev attacked us yesterday, there would not have been
a vestige of their village left this morning. We started
iit 12 o'clock, and steamed away into the usual maze of
islands, quickly losing sight of the high mainland,
which had been so refreshing to our eyes. We started
this time with every intention of its not being our fault
if we lose the Peace again. Both steamers stopped at
;") o'clock, and the usual cutting of wood in swamps was
gone tl 'ough. This time I was fit and went out too.

Native of Upoto.

1S87.
June 6.

Upoto.

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Native Village.

CHAPTER IV.

June 8th to July 31st.

Letter to Mrs. Jameson. — Pass burning villages. — Arrival at Aruwimi River.
— Conical-fehaped huts. — Occupation of Yambuya. — Arrival of Henrif
Meed. — Stanley's letter of instructions. — Re-packin'' bales for Emin.
— Barttelot made " blood-brother " with native chief. — Rations for six
months. — " Beggars must not be choosers." — Stanley's departure. —
Building boma. — Extraordinary flight of butterflies. — Palaver with
natives. — "Collecting" captives.— Natives capture Omari. — Woman
escapes. — Uselessnesa of chiefs. — Gum-copal.

FROM A LETTER TO MRS. JAMESON.

1887. June Sth. — I will now give you a general idea of the
Juno 8. pjj^jj q£ campaign, xit present we have left behind us

EXTRACT FROM LhTTER.

a fovce of 124 men at Uolobo iiiidor Ward and Bonny,
At Ti(M)])oldville is an enormous quantity of stores and
amiiniuition which we couhl not hrini?. "NVlien tlie
strainers leave us at the entrenched camp, they return
down the Con<;o, and tlie Sfrtiilr// will hrin«j; up all the
stores and ammunition with the 1*24 men from Holoix).
In the meanwhile Stanley will have ji:one on witli o-")0
men (leavinj^ 100 men with us in cam])), carryin*:; li}j:ht
loads, to make a forced march throuu:h the unknown
country to liake Albert Nyanza, where lie expects Kmin
Bey to come down from AVadelai to meet him. On the
return of the StnnJcy to the Aruwimi camp with the
stores and the 124 men, our force will consist of a
httle over 200 men. Tip])u-Til) will then send us about
400 men from Stanley Falls. AMien they arrive we shall
take all the stores and ammunition and march aft(T
Stanley; he will have marked the trees on his route.
And now I think I have told you as much as any of us,
except Stanley, know about our plans for the future.

June l^th. — I must give you the menu of our mid-
day meal, which we have just finished : —

Soup.
Wt'cvil-eaten beans, tlavourod with yoat.

Entree.
Stowed goat and rice.

Roast.
Roast leg of goat and rico.

Ve(jetahle.
Rice and fried manioc-flour.

Sweet.
Fried bananas.

So yon see we are not so badly off! We have no spirits
of any kind, but drink boiled Congo water.

I enclose a little sketch I made of a native chief who
came to make a present of a goat to Mr. Stanley at a

1887.

Jiint> 8.

River.

STORY Oh Tin: REAR COLUMy.

JuiSI'o. P^^^'f' called Nzungi, on the march from Matadi to
Congo Stanley Pool.

River.

I have never been on any trip where there is so little
enjoyment of any kind ; it is all so serious, and a sort of
gloom hangs over it all. If one does say anything which
raises a laugh, it is the most ghastly imitation of one,
and dies a sudden death, not to be raised again, per-
haps, that day.

DIARY (continued).

June Sth. — Just after starting this morning we dis-
turbed an old hippo at his breakfast in the long grass,
and he walked quietly into the water, giving us a splen-
did view of his person. In the afternoon we passed one
very large native village, which is the first I have seen
really constructed on a definite plan. It was all built
in small squares, the river forming the fourth side, with
a regular landing-place for canoes to each little square,
and roughly-made ladders up the bank. The people
were very eager to trade, and followed us a long way in
their canoes. The women, with few exceptions, still

DIMiY.

continno to wear notliinij; wbatovor. I must say that at
oiu' villajjjo, li<)wcv(M', most of tlio women had tied round
tlicir waists lar^o ^rocn l)anana-leaves, cut into fine lonj.
slireds, and just pulled oft" the trees, as if they knew wc
were cominjif. 'I he brif^iit fj^reen a«;ainst their dusky
skins was very effective. I noticed one very large Idack
nn»i»key to-day, with an immensely long tail.

.June ^th. — Cup-day at Ascot. What crowds of
recollections suddenly spring up when one thinks of
tjiis, and how I wonder if, amongst the number of one's
friends there, any of them will give a thought to
those who are absent like myself. We passed great
numbers of native villages, the inhabitants of whicli are
a really savage-looking people, of whom it is very easy
to believe all the stories of cannibalism ; they all, how-
ever, wanted us to land and trade, holding up goats
and fowls, and following us for long distances in
tlicir canoes. The whole of the deck-cabin nearly came
down to-day, owing to the great pressure of the top
deck, which is crowded with men. We had to move
half the men off it on to the lower one, where they
are now packed like sardines. If the top deck comes
down, it will burst all the steam-pipes, scald a lot of us,
and throw most of the men into the river.

June \^th. — Some of the villages we passed on the
banks of the mainland are very large. The natives
were collected in groups at every landing place opposite
to the huts, some of them with their bodies entirely
covered with bright red clay, and their black faces yet
more blackened and shining, presented a ver)- curious
appearance. It is very funny to see them in some
places, peering out of holes in the dense undergrowth
of the forest, just like frightened animals. At one
village their principal occupation seemed to be in
making canoes ; they use a tool very like our adze. I
noticed a great number of elephant tracks all through
the forest. It was my turn to sit up and see the wood
split for the steamer. Did not get to bed until 2.30 p.m.

1SS7.
Juno S.

Congo
River.

( J ■:.*■.

lit

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■ i

sronr or T//h' it/: ah columx

lh87.

<I'IIK> I I.
RiM.T.

June \}f/i. — Passed somo very lar«^(» villajjjcs, one ol
them oxt('ii(liii}jj over two miles; tliev seem to be verj'
thickly ])o|>nlate(l. 'I'iiey are all built on the same ])lii!i
as that one described ai)()ve rj)oto, in small squares,
the river-bank f()rmin<; the fourth side of the sciuiiic,
with a bare courtyard in the centre, where they make
their pottery, &C. The native shields are nearly all
made of hide of some kind, 1 think fifoat, but I saw ono
which looked very like bush buckskin ; thev have u
raised basin-shaped dome in the centre in some cases,
made of metal. lietween the small sfpiares of tlip
villa«j;es are either patches of plantains and bananas or
juuf^le, whih; at the rear there is i»enerally a strip of
Indian corn or manioc, and then comes the forest. Tiieie
are evidently ^reat manufactures of pottery, for I saw
threat heai)s of pottery in all staijjes. In all the scpiarcs
is a f^reat drum formed of a hollow l()<jj, covered at the
end witli skin. Many of the natives dye their bodies
brif^ht red with cam-wood, others are blackened all
over with the forehead ])ainted pure white, and a sniiiU
patch under each eye. This <i;ives them the most
i^hastly a])])earance. ( )ne of the larjjjest villages, Mbuiiaii,
had just been burned the ni«;lit before we passed, and
some of the huts were still burning. A few of the m-
habitants were wandering about in their war-]mint, and
looking at the ruins, but they all fled at our approach.
They are anything but friendly, as at nearly every village
they yelled and shouted at us, shaking their spears and
shields, and making signs of cutting our throats, heai)ini,'
all sorts of insults upon us. It is a bad look-out for
our chances of trading for food at the entrenched camp.

June 12fh. — Arrived at the Aruwimi at last. Did
not pass as many villages as yesterday. One large one
on the north bank is called Yalumbo. The natives
seem to be of a much lighter colour than those we have
seen on the south bank ; they are shorter and better
built. Their paddles are very long in the blade, and
beautifully shaped. We came in sight of the mouth of
the Aruwimi about 4 r.M., and entered by the channel

DiAitr.

on Tho north bank ; tho otlior chnnnol is hidden by a
lull?*' i^^liiiid wliicli stands in the ccntro of tho month of
the liver. Ml*. Staidey steamed across to Hnsoivo, a
liiiire town on tlie o|)])ositc bank, and tohl tlie ])eo|)h»
lj(Mvished them to lirinjj: "s food, lie then retnrned to
;iii old eam|)inj2;-|daee of his, and wc put in n litth^
lower down. At our a])])roaeh innnensc numbers of
ciiiioes left tho town for the op|)osit(^ banks and islands,
riic view at the mouth of the river is very ])retty, as
there is a grand stretch of tho C()nij;o >vithout islands,
and the forest is very fine, liaruti, Stanley's native
servant, orijjjinally came from liasoko, and I believe
there was a most interestinfjf scene when the Vence
went over there, between him and his relations. Much
w('e|iini; and kissin<]j ! Basoko stands in hit. Y 15" and
loni;. 24° 12". The river here is just 900 yards wide.
'I'jie natives all have their oars stretched in several
jiliices by pieces of stick placed in the holes.

hme \Wi. — Orders came from the Pence that we
were not to start until 12 o'clock, in the hope that the
people would bring us food, but no canoes came near
us. i'he Stanle;/ was the steamer which carricnl the
men belonging to the Free State, who burnt the town
about fourteen months ago, and they are still afraid to
come near her. Not five minutes after we had started,
a number of natives who must have been hidden quite
close to us in the bush, ran down to our landing-place.
We all went into fits of laiLghter at a few men on the
bank (finther up) who gave us a regular war dance, the
jjiincipal features of which were insulting gestures.
The banks of the river are far more thickly populated
than the Congo. If they chose to attack us when
we are scattered in small parties through tho dense
forest, woodcutting, w'here one could not use a rifle
until they were close to one, they could easily finish us
all. I was to-night in the dark, on one of the native
paths, without a light of any kind for over an hour, not
a dozen men with me, and I have not the least doubt
that the natives wore close to us in tho bush. I

18S7.
Juno 12.

Aniwiiiii
River.

I .tj.;

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STnitr OF THE RKMi roLUMif,

, ^^^I*« R0(» thnt tho curious fii)nrnraiu'o of thoir oars is duo tn

•Tuni» I.". ,. .. 1 1 1 I 1 /• . 1 ■ ,

Aruwimi ^"^^^ *'^ "**>' f"'"**'!'"*''' grasses, l)uiu'li('s ot teeth, and ;ill

Hivw, suits of things stuck into thu Uulus bored uU uluu''

their edges. I saw one man to-day, with a lone: piece
of stick, put right through both nostrils at right angles

to his nose. They have small oval shields, sharp-pointed
at both ends, with a raised dome in the centre, different
from any others down river.

DIARY,

June \Mh. — .TuRt boforo wc stfirtod some of Mr.
StanU^y's company set firo to tho liuts, a most uncallcd-
Inr pioce of dovilmciit, and a tiling to he rc^ri'tted, as
it is more likrly to sot tlio natives aij;ainst us than
iinvtliiu}?. Saw the first of the conieal-shaped lints
mentioned in Stanley's hook ; they are made of the
leaves of palms cut off near the trunk, and overlappiufj;
one anotlier layer U])on layer, like a shin<j:le roof The
door is small and low, the huts l)ein«j: <j;enerally very
\\\\l\\. Some of tho natives came across and wished to
trade. Most of their paddles have a knob of ivory
on tlie end, and are of the most graceful shaj)es.

June \hfh. — Tiast night ten rounds of ammunition
jter man wore served out, and now we go about in fear
(if our lives that they will be trying the cartridges in
their rifles, and letting them off by accident. The river
is now very much naiTower, not over ')()() yards wide,
1111(1 the north bank is much higher tlian the south. A
little after 5 o'clock wc came within sight of the ra})ids,
and tlie town of Yambuya, where the entrenched camp
is to be, and which is to be our home for so long. I
was greatly disappointed with the rapids, which are
nothing in appearance but a few lines of broken water,
altliough a great volume of water must pass over them.
Wc made fast to tiie bank opposite the town, and
Stairs went over to see Mr. Stanley, and returned with
tho f()llo\\ ing orders. We were to have steam up at
G A.M. The Peace was to start first, go over to the
village, and if possible have a palaver with the natives.
^^'e were to steam out into the middle of the river, and
just kee]) headway against the stream. No whistle
would be blown except by the Peace^ and that would be
a signal that negotiations had failed. We were then to
cross over to her, when Jephson would land his company,
Stanley having already landed his ; they were to ascend
the hank, and s])read in skirmishing order through the
village. AMiilst the others were landing. Stairs, if
necessary, was to work the Maxim gun from the top
deck of the Stanley. As I had no comj^any, I was

I8fl7.
Juno 14.

Aniwimi
Riror.

I'.i . ■>■

HToliV OF Till-: RlwUi COLUMS.

.U\w\') P''''P^^'^'^ ^** ^^^ ^"y S<''if'>"'^l fii^-litiiij^-. \() sliots wore to
Vambuya ^^^ tiled, aii(l IK) (laina^(» (lone to the village unless the
natives showed active resistance.

Jioie \C)th. — At A.M. tlie Peace steamed over to the
villa<]je, and ?>Ir. Stanley had a very Ion**' ])ahiver with
the natives, wiio would not hear of our landinj;- tliciv,
So the whistle was at last hlown, and we at once cast
off and joined the Peacey whicli had dropped down
below the landing-place. The orders were carried out
exactly, and it was a ludicrous sight to see Jeplison's
chief going u]) tlie ])ank first, which was fearfully stirp,
and about 40 ft. higli, holding his riffe as far out in
front of him as ])ossible, and peering on every side for
a lurking foe. Not a native was to be seen when they
did get up, and the whole village was occupied in
perfect peace. We put up our tents, and destroyed the
huts which were not required for our men. After
dinner Mr. Stanley called us all to his tent, and liad a
long talk with us. lie explained the })lan of the fort.
which Avas to be a triangle, with its base the river-haiik,
stockaded, and with an outside ditcii of G ft. wide and
4 ft. deep, 10 ft. from the boma (stockade). He told us
that Tii)pu-Tib was coming with as many men as he
could get together, seven days after our landing, and
going on with him to the Lake. He would also send
enough men to enable us to follow after him witli all
the stores left here, and those brought u]) by the !Sfanlrij
on her return journey. He also said that where there
was enough food for so many natives, there must be far
more than enough for us. He dwelt a long time on the
great importance of Barttelot's and my position, bciui:
left in charge of the fort to guard all the stores, as. if
anything should hap])en to them, the Expedition would
be at an end. Mr. Stanley said he w-ould finish the
stockade, and as much of the defences as possible, and
that he would not in any case leave us until we w(>re in
what he considered a ])osition of })erfect safety. He also
told us of his intention of returning from Lake Albert
Nyauza ou the route which he will take from hert>. ii'

rajx^^KSl

, f;

'.1 1

fPrI

, !

li h.

case Ave hd
aininunitioi]
the road,
food. In
between wJ
collection (I
implementsi

June llu
the Stanle}j\
ammunitioi
and his coi
river throui
<rivo Mr. hti
journey. A
the clearint
Jcphson an
Parke explo
natives cam
further up
stony and re
News gi'adn
Stanley's na
run away, 1
cartridges, r
Ionising to '^
Buila, boys
and one of
how the sa^

train him.

formed a la

In a letti
writes : —

" I canm
being left
all the othe
have to do
and Bonny
country as

DIARY,

case Ave had not enough men to come on with the
am munition and stores ; in any case we would meet on
tlie road. The natives have removed every vestige of
food. In the centre of this village are three poles
between which are built up the most extraordinary
collection of native skulls, baskets, and all sorts of
implements.

June 11th. — My orders for the day were to unload
the Stanley and Florida, and stack all the stores and
ammunition. This took the w^hole day to finish. Nelson
and his company were all day making a road up the
river through the villages in that direction, so as to
jrivo Mr. Stanley and his party a fair start on their long
journey. All the villages were deserted. Stairs finished
the clearing round the camp, and began the stockade,
Jcphson and his men cut wood for the steamers, and
Parke explored in search of manioc plantations. A few
natives came in and told Mr. Stanley that the country
further up the river becomes very hilly, the travelling
stony and rough, but that there are plenty of villages.
News gradually spread through camp that Baruti, Mr.
Stanley's native boy, whom he has had for years, had
run away, taking with him Mr. Stanley's belt with
cartridges, revolver, and compass, and also a rifle be-
longing to William Hoffman, his servant. Feruzi and
Bulla, boys belonging to the Captain of the Stanley,
and one of the Engineers had bolted too. This proves
how the savage in a man will out, no matter how you
train him. The natives have crossed the river, and
formed a large camp on the opposite shore.

In a letter to his wife, dated the lUh June, Jameson
writes : —

" I cannot get over the feeling of disappointment at
being left alone here with only Major Barttelot, when
all the others are marching on to the Lakes. We shall
have to do afterwards by ourselves, with Troup, Ward,
and Bonny, the same march through the same unknown
country as the others are doing with Stanley as their

1887.
June 16.

Yambuya.

r, 5' h >}.-•■ li,';,-

STORY OF THE HEAR COLUMN.

1«87.
June 18.

Yambuya.

leader, and all the picked Zanzibaris in the Expedition,
I suppose we shall be here about two months before the
steamer returns up river, and we can start. I am a
giant of health just now, and once we are settled in
the camp I shall have time to draw, paint, and Aviito all
sorts of things for you. I like to linger over my letters
to you for hours, for then the Expedition and all its
surroundings seem to fade far away, but I am rudely
awakened, as usual, to the dry hard facts of our progress
up this river . . . ."

And later on, from Yambuya, he says : — (June 18th)
" This is an unfortunate place for me to be confined
to, as there is not a single track of game of any kind . ,
June 19th. . . To-morrow morning we shall eat our last
piece of the old milk-goat, and I expect it will bo a
good two months before Barttelot and I get any mure,
for the natives have brought in nothing. Stanley and
his party, however, should get plenty, as they will come
upon villages before the people have time to carry away
anything . . . ."

DIARY (continued).

June \^th. — Nelson, Parke, and Jephson were all
out cutting wood. Stairs was finishing poles for
stockade, whilst I w^as collecting wood, and seeing it
stacked. No natives came in; not a bit of meat in
Camp.

June 19M. — Nothing of interest.

Jtiue 20fh. — Every one out woodcutting. I again
superintended splitting and stacking. The Stanley left
at last for Leopoldville, carrying all our mails. There
were many happy hearts when she started, we had had
to cut ten days' wood for her, which was an enormous
pile. The Peace is to remain and go back with the
Henry Reed. The iStanley is to make all haste en route,
and return as soon as possible with all the stores and

DIAliY.

ammunition from Leopoldville, and the men from j[,^".i(j
]^ol()bo. Mr. Stanley has promised the Captain and Yambuya.
Kn'nneer £50 each, if tliey return in An<j:nst, or at the
latest in September, and handed to me the orders on
the bank to give them if they do so.

June list. — Have been very seedy for the last week,
and felt worse to-day. Inspecting stacking and splitting
wood again. Mr. Stanley began to build the store,
which is also to be my house, and blamed me for not
havinii; done so before, although he must have known
that for the last three days I could not have got a man
or an axe to help me, and he himself told me to look
after the splitting and stacking of wood. The Henry
Heed, with Barttelot, never turned up, although over-
due. Some natives came into camp to have a palaver
with INIr. Stanley ; they proposed that we should send
five /anzibaris over with them to the other side of the
river to show confidence, and make palaver. Stanley
said no, but that they must send tw^o goats and ten
fowls to us, and then palaver. Still no meat in camp.
Living on rice, manioc cakes, and beans with biscuit ;
no sugar or salt — a fact ! The natives get manioc by
crossing the river below camp at night, and going up
into the plantations.

June 22nd. — Mr. Stanley was getting very anxious
to-day about the Henri/ Heed, and ordered the Peace to
start down the river wdth Stairs and 30 men on board
to-morrow, and proceed to the Falls. He thought
that perhaps Tippu-Tib might have seized the steamer
— rather a curious fact, since he stated to us that he
considered Tippu's word as good as any white man's.
However, when we had given up all hope, late in the
evening she appeared round the bend of the river, and
Karttelot brought two magnificent, big, fat goats and
some bananas and plantains. There Avas also a splendid
fat COW' on board, a jiresent from Tip})u-Tib to the
native chief at Leo])oldville, which I wish Mr. Stanley
would have allowed us to seize, as I do not see a chance

',1

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN,

1887.
June 22.
Yambuya.

of our getting any meat after he is gone. The larue
town we saw burning on the Congo was burnt by tiie
people on the Henry Reed after all, as Tippu-Tihs
people had been looting and were attacked, and some
of tliem were badly wounded, after which they biinn
the whole place. Tippu-Tib is not coming after all,
but is going to send a chief and some men instead
It appears that in Mr. Stanley's contract with him, Mr,
Stanley promised to supply all his men with ammuiii.
tion ; Tippu-Tib found out that he could not do this,
as all the powder and caps are still at Leopoldvillo, so
he is very much annoyed, and at first was not goinjij to
send anyone ; but Major Barttelot persuaded him,
telling him that all the ammunition would be here on
the return of the Stanley. Mr. Charters, the missionan
engineer of the Peace, made me exceedingly anxious
this morning by informing me that there is a great
chance that my letters sent by the Stanley Avill never
reach home, as they would almost certainly be opened,
read, and destroyed at Boma ; he told me that letters
are constantly stopped there*. This is a most dis-
graceful thing, for if there is one thing ever respected
in any country by the governing body, it is the
mails.

June 23;'<Z. — All day stacking stores and ammunition.
In the afternoon four or five Soudanese came in,
carrying one of their party, who had been speared by a
native; they had been looting a village, when the
natives attacked them. Two Zanzibaris, who were with
them, fired and killed a native, when the others all ran
away. Dr. Parke says it is a dangerous wound (in the
groin), although he ought to live. There was great
beating of drums after this, but no further attack. Poor
Alexander, one of the Soudanese interpreters, died
to-day. He has been ill for a long time, and ought
never to have been taken on the Expedition.

* In justice to the Congo authorities on this occasion, it must be
stated that all the letters sent by Jameson arrived safe and unopened.
—Ed.

I 1

DIARY.

!887.

June 24:th. — The Henry Beed and Peace left early this j^^^o^
morning- All men out cutting poles for palisade, which yambuya.
was partly finished by evening.

Juue 2oth. — Jephson and I had to \mte a report
upon the state of the bales of clothes &c. for Emin.
Ill consequenc of the way in which they were packed,
nearly the whole of them were rotten ; bui there were
a crood many which, with patching, might still be made
wearable, so we decided to repack these, and use the
rest for medical bandages. Stairs is really veiy bad
witli fever ; in fact, so bad that Mr. Stanley warned me
to 1)0 ready to go instead of him at a moment's notice.
To-day Mr. Stanley gave Major Barttelot a long letter
of instructions and advice, of which I had to make two
copies *. I was very glad indeed to get the letter, as it
cleared up many things, of which I had only a very
hazv idea. It is clear upon every point, but as regards
our relations with Tippu-Tib's people, I think more
miii;ht have been told us on this subject.

!■

H '

t. I

June 2Qfh. — Engaged all morning in re-packing the
bales for Emin Pasha, which are now reduced from five
to three. I had to use the cover of my tent to pack a
good many of the things in, which is a great loss to
me, but it is in a good cause. The chief of the natives
cpme over to-day, with whom Major Barttelot was made
'•blood-brother," in order to increase our friendly rela-
tions with them after Mr. Stanley's departure. A
chicken (needless to say supplied by the natives) had
its head cut off, the blood being scattered over the
lookers on, then a cut was made both on the Major's
arm and that of the chief; the bleeding parts were
rubbed together, and then rubbed on the back of each
other's necks. They then kissed one another, and are
now supposed to be fast friends. Let us hope that it
will induce them to bring us something to eat. The
European provisions were opened to-day, and Nelson

• See Appendix II.

JiMK

t:;-

1 •:

1 1 %

; .
t ■,

I I

sro/iv OF Tiii<: unau coimmn.

J'^^.in ^vas l)nsv nil dnv in sortinj' tlicin out in rations for ciifh
Vftmbuya. ^"'^" '"'' ^'^ rnoiitlis. Eacli niiin s ullowance is the
followini': —

Coffee 2.1 lbs.

Tea 1 ], 11).

3 tins of jam.

\\ tin sardinns.

^ tin rod licrrinj^s.

A tin tai)io(*a.

1 small tin of salt.

3 small tins of butter.

\ tin chocolate.

\\ tin saiisaf^es.

1 tin flour.
\ tin saj(o.

4 tins condensed milk
\ lb. su^ar.
\l tin cocoa.

2 tins biscuit.
2 pots Liebig.

AVlien r)ne reflects tliat the above have to be eked out
ov(?r 180 days, on(! would really rather be without a
great many of tlu^m than only liav(; (enough to niiikc
one wish for more ! The tins are th(^ ordinary siriall
on(^s in general use in very small households. Ilcic
are Major Harttelot and myself h^ft absolutely without
one atom of meat, tinned or fresh, for s(;veral months.
and no vinihle means of obtaining any, for the natives
have brought in nothing, and have removed everythiiii:
from all the villages within reach of this camp, 'riicic
is not a pound of game-meat, either bird or animal, in
the whole country round. Had Mr, Stanl(>y cmly iiscfi
three of his many men to carry tinned meat, th(! Miijur
and I might have had h lb. a day each of gf)od meat to:
the whole six months, far more than we should ever h;iv(
used. When complaining of food some one might siiy.
"Oh, you had such luxuries as chocolate, sausages, rcii
herrings, and sardines ! What have you got to mm-
plain of?" One could oidy answer that ^ a small tin
of chocolate, 1 h ditto of sausages, ^ ditto red heninirs.
and 1 h ditto of sardinc^s was not tasting mucli liixuiy
for 180 days. This evening Mr. Stanley sent round, {''■
all the oflicers he is taking with him, his orders for the
conduct of the march. vVlways flrst will be a company,
commanded by him in ])erson, of fifty men, who will
clear the road ; then the main bodv, consisting of all

DfAitr.

(niTi<'rs and sii|)ornuin(Miiri('s fr) jiclj) flip fin-d or sick ;
listly tlic n'iii-;4;ujii(l, of lliirty jiriricd iricn, with no
1 );i(ls, }iiid others to help tiiosc who fall out froin the
iiiiiiii hody. Then? were iniincroiis other diicctioiis
about (;oinirnini(;!itioiis hctwccii ))}irts of the; coliunn,
\c. Lastly Ik; stated his intentions of fonriin;^ a eainp
nil the S.\V. eorner of Lake Alhert Nyaii/a. From there

he will cross in the hoat to in I'nyoro, where he

will meet Si«j^nor , from whom lie will find out the

wlicicahonts of I'iinin Pasha. If in he nei<^lil)oiirliood
nl'ilic i^ake, h(! will m(M!t him, and, after discovering' his
intentions, will start hack for this ("amp to hrini;; on the
rest of the stores and ammunition, should w(; not he
already on tlu; road to the Lak(!. If not, he would
rcacli here; some time in Novcnnber most probably.
The ahov(; is all in Mr. Stanley's letter of instructions
to Mftjor liarttelot.

Jiina 'lltli. — All mfW'ninf^ and forenoon were taken np
ill arniiif^injL^ tlu; men who an; ^oinj^ on, into com|)anies,
and sorting out those who are to be left behind.
Seventy-six of the very worst were left, and oidy one
chief called Munichandi, a man who is utterly worth-
less, as the men do not care one rush for what Ik; says.
Had Mr. Staidey tried, ho could not have left a worse
man as chief over the class of men left behind. It "•''s
the f^reatest mistake not to leave us at least on(; j.\ .1
man whom the men wcmld respect and obey, but I
su|)])()se be^^ars must not bo choosers. T£o has taken
ten of the best of the Soudanese, and the bu<;l(;r who
would have been a i^eat help in camp. 'i'o-day the
Major and I made our last good srjuare meal of moat,
I ('.\))ect, for a long time. Stairs is still very ill, but is
<,'()in<^ to bo carried.

June 2Hth. — At 10 minutes past 8 a.m. Mr. Stanley
staited, after bidding us a very kind good-bye>, with an
exchange of wishes for the best of luck on both sides.
A t,'ood-by(; and God-s])Ood was exchanged witli all the
other officers. Nelson being the last to leave, as he had
charge of the rear-guard. Then Major l>artt(;lot and

1S77.
Jiiiii- 'JK.

Vaiiibuya.

I V*-

rill

i:i:M

!^,l. 1

•n

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

' .:il

Jun"*w ^ bcjijan the real work of the camp, oolloctod all tlo
Yaiubuya ^^ ^"'^ from tlic (losortod huts, and clrnnod up tlio whdlo
camp. I j^ot ton men tojjfothcr and anjin^cMl the tliiiiirs
left Lohind. Harttolot went out to cut poles for the
boma. Having finished the work in tlie store, I brouirlit
up my things from my tent, bed and all, and made the
place habitable. It is frightfully damp, and Mr. Stanhn
co\il(l ntjt have chosen a worse place for it. lictoil'
dinner we set the following sentries : — 2 Zanzibaiis ;ir
bastion behind the store, 2 Zanzibaris at covered \\\\\ to
the water, 2 Soudanese on platform, 1 Soudanese at
west end of boma, 2 Zanzibaris between western limit
and path to landing-place, 1 Soudanese on patli to
landing-place, 4 Zanzibaris on open space of unfinished
boma, 1 Soudanese at the main gate east. 1 went
round of sentries at 8.30, 10, and 4 o'clock.

.Time 2{)fh. — Off at o'clock with 20 men to cur
poles to finish boma. We have only been left five nxcs
which can by any possibility be used, and of these oiilv
two can be called fairly good. We cut ninety i)()l{'s,
and returned to camp at 11.80. The cliiefs are worse
than useless, and the Major and I have to inspect every
little thing that is done. There were one or two wyx
small scraps of meat left last night in the stew, th(» last
we arc likely to see for a long time, so we ordered tliem
to be kept for our mid-day meal to-day, although we
should have turned up our noses at them a few days
ago. When the pot arrived. Major Barttelot plun<j;o(l
his fork into it, and drew forth — not meat — but a filthy
piece of old rag ! Heavens ! were'nt we in a rage ! — our
last piece of meat, and we could not eat it ! Went out
and cut more poles. Dined off three pigeons, which I
shot, manioc and bananas. The manioc nearly finished
me. Went round of sentries 7.30, 11, and 2.30 a.xM.

June ^Oth. — At 6.30 a.m. I started off to cut poles for
boma. When the natives on the opposite side of the
river saw us, they evidently thought that the camp was
deserted, and at least fifty canoes crossed over between
us and camp. I at once ordered the men to turn, as I

DTARY.

thonijht wo mi^ht bo cut off. Upon sooinp: us return
to tlio camp, tho natives all boltod and ro-crosscd tlio
river, so we (luietly proceeded to cut [)oles. Seedy all
(liiv and nij^lit. Pounded boiled rice, fried in cakes,
quite a success.

Jiijif l.vf. — A.M., off apfain cutting: poles for tliat
infenial l)onia, but, thank heavens, finished it at last.
1 sliall hate tho si^ht of ciny kind of wooden ])alinf5
after this. Tho Major bofi;an tho bi^ ditch round the
hoiTia to-day, 10 feet from boma, fec^t wide, and 4 J
feet deep. He shot a ]>i«i;eon, and as there wer(» three
vcrv, very small chickens which I was tryinj; to rear,
aiui as " two are c()m])any and three are none," I killed
()ii(> of them, and wo had a stow for dinner, which was a
(rn>at success. Major Barttelot took ni^ht of sentries,
as 1 am still seedy. We have be«2;uu from to-day to
take niglit about in going the rounds.

Jnh) 2nfl. — Throe sentries wore caught asleep last
night. There is no excuse for them, as they have boon
warned two or throe times they will bo flogged if found
asleep, and they go on duty two together, so that one
may sleep while the other watches. They got 25 strokes
rach. My boy Matajabu succeeded in buying one small
pot of honey and three ripe plaintains from some natives
to-day. I would knight him, had I the power ! Went
round sentries ; caught two asleep.

JuJ)/ 3;y7, Sunday. — Began by flogging the sentries
caught asleep. This sort of thing must be stopped, as
wo arc a very small force, liable to be attacked at any
moment. Nearly all hands at ditch again. Gave the
men a half-holiday. Served out one mataka and six
cowries to each man as their weekly allowance ; they
at first refused to take the cowries, saying the natives
would not take them, but I told them those were
Mr. Stanley's orders. The rain came through my roof
in streams, and wet my bed and everything.

July ith. — No sentries asleep last night. Nearly

Juno 30.
Yaiubtiya.

!^':«i

1^^

.i I

tlh

'' •!

sToiiv or Till-: itKAii cnrj-.Ms.

I«S7.

July 4.
Yiiml)iivii.

Jill liiiiids (lii,';;in^' difcli !i<;!iin. AruiiicliiiiKli very iimri.
HUMS, hilt aftcruanls rcix'iitiint. l-'iiiislicd idanniin,
J)iiin('r sim|»lcr tliiiii ever. Went round sciitrii's.

Jidf/ ')th. — Kaliiiiii \\'iidi Scnini, a Zaii/i))ari, dicl
last ui«j:lir; lie had hccn ill for a loiiLC time. \ll
in()niin«,' at ditch. An cxtraordinarv \\\\i}\i of hiiftcitlic,
])ass(«d over the canip all the at'tcinoon, the saiiic coimnnu
white ones that \ noticed in lai«i:e Hi«;hts on the Coiiu,,
'I'his lot Hew fi(nn north to south as straight as the
compass couhl point. The dump in my house is vdv

.>-u..u..

tr'-
. i ■ «

,^-

. ••■ «-*^ „(t'' ■ ,,-1'?*' ^ •<>. V.

'^■/■■'■. 3^' ••*"'

....-^-

Rapids, fkom the Camp.

bad, and I fear some of the things will come to grief,
althon«j;h I have done all I could tliink of to remedy it.
How I will bless the day when I get a little time fur
collecting and drawing ! But it seems far off still.

Juhj C)fli. — Two sentries w^ho deserted their post last
niglit werc^ flogged this morning. It is sickening, tliis
continual flogging, but tliere is no help for it. Nearly all

having been ]

DIARY.

hniuls at (Htch a<jjiiin. It' tli(» men would only show a
littU' more spirit, and uork loss roluctanfly, it would
make it intu'h easier for iJarttelot and myself. The same
tuiious tii^ht of wliit(> hutterfiies is still j^oin^ on. Had
a new cook-houso built this afternoon ; of course there
is iiothiufj; to cook in it. I sueeeeded in huyi!iij;a small
tisli cut in half from one of the boys to-('ay for two
inatiikas, and j^ave him one for himself. Famine prices.
It turned out to be the same fish exactly as those we
used to catch in the rivers rnnninj; into the Zambesi,
with teeth outside the jaws, of which I have one stuffed
at home I heard Matajabu hol(lin<i; an animated con-
vi'isation with some of the men to-day, and asked him
what it was about. He told me that the men said they
knew why the place was bein<j; made so stron«; : Mr.
Stanley was goin^ to sell it to the Belgians for two or
three hundred pounds, for a new station, as it could not
be for us only, for our guns were quite enough without
the boma and trench to keep off the natives. It gave
me a real good laugh, the first I have had for some
time.

July 1th. — Went the rounds last night. No sentries
asleep, so no flogging this morning, thank goodness.
At the trench all morning. I succeeded in shooting a
pigeon, whicb was unlucky enough to come near where
we were digging, and JMatajabu bought three small
fish, so we had quite a day of it in the eating-line — fish
for lunch, pigeon for dii.ner — though of course that ass
of a cook kept the best fish for dinner, and it smelt so,
having been left all day in ihe sun, that we nearly left
the house when it came in. Edi, one of the little
donkey-boys, died this afternoon ; he had been ill for
some time, and I had given him medicine, but he had
been on parade every morning. We let the men off
work an hour earlier than usual to go and get manioc.
No signs yet of Tippu-Tib's people. No chance of
collecting yet, for one cannot leave the men for a
moment; the chiefs are perfectly useless.

July Sth. — Another morning without any flogging,

1887.
Jul J (V

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STORY OF THE HEAR COLUMN.

1«87.
July 8.

Yambuya.

and another day at the ditch ! A native came who told
us that they wanted to buy the canoes which we had
seized when occupying the village, and that they were
ready to pay for them in chickens, goats, and plantains.
We told him we would let them have one, but tlmt
they must first produce the payment. This he said he
was willing to do. He then told us he had a lot of
plantains with him in his canoe, and if Matajabu would
go with him, he might bring them back to camp. But
unfortunately a number of Zanzibaris ran out with
matakas, and, although Matajabu told them that the
plantains were for us, they made the natives sell them
to them. I was very angiy at this, and when the men
paraded at l.]f5 I told them that when my boy was
sent by the Major and myself to buy — especially in a
case like this, when ^he natives had already promised
the plantains to us — he should have the first chance of
buying, and if prevented, I would shut the gates in
future whenever a canoe came, and not let a man out
until we had got what we wanted. Great beating of
drums to-night in all the villages round. Ten canoes
passed up the other side to-day, to i,ae natives camped
there.

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■I'll

Juh/ dth. — The sentries, I am glad to say, are now
keeping awake. Finished the ditch to-day. Major
Barttelot still seedy. No sign of the native who was to
buy the canoe with goats and chickens ; but in the
morning a native — evidently a man of position — came
into camp, and had a palaver with Barttelot and myself.
He wished to know whether he could take any quantity
of manioc, and re-occupy the village next this one.
He said that, if allowed, he would bring us plenty of
chickens, the price of each being five matakas. This is
the price they ask for a chicken hardly fledged. After
a lot of palaver, we told him that our terms were these —
that he should bring us two goats, and we would give
him a present, that he could then take the manioc in
peace, and we would talk about the occupation of the
village, and further that we should certainly not give

DIARY.

five matakas for any fowl. If he did not do this, we
told him we should take steps to stop their getting any
manioc at all. As things are now, they come across to
the villages above us at all times in the day, and carry
away enormous quantities to the other side. He finally
said he would return in the evening with the two goats.
He has, however, not turned up, so I am going to show
them that we are in earnest to-moiTow morning, by taking
twenty-five of the Soudanese with me, and stopping all
the river-paths to the manioc fields. I will try and capture
a woman, and then they will come to terms I think.
For the last two or three days there have been a number
of large canoes coming up river to join them, and I
think it looks like mischief, but we are now prepared
for them. The wind was from the north again to-day,
and the flight of those white butterflies in the afternoon
was so dense as to resemble drifting snow.

Juli/ 10th. — I had a most delightful day, for instead
of digging the ditch I was out all day. I had deter-
mined to begin collecting to-day in the natural-history
line, and succeeded in a much larger way than I
intended, by collecting two native women, one baby,
and a boy. After an inspection of rifles at 6 a.m., I
started off with twenty-three Soudanese to stop the
natives taking manioc, and to try and catch women.
However no natives ventured near, so we returned to
Cfimp. After lunch the Soudanese reported that two
canoes were made fast to the bank at some distance
above camp, and that the natives had gone for manioc.
Major Barttelot asked me to take ten of his men, and
to go and try to catch them. I went off, but found
only one canoe. I went up about ten yards from it to
place my men in the paths leading to the fields, when a
woman and two men jumped out of the grass where we
had been standing a moment before, and, bolting down
the bank into the canoe, they got clean off. We must
have been standing almost on the top of them ! We
looked dreadfully foolish, for we had been thoroughly
sold, and I was disgusted at the idea of going back to

1887.
July 9.

Yambuys.

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STOltr OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
July 10.

Yambuya.

camp and tell'ing this to Barttclot. Meanwhile I had
noticed a great number of very large canoes crossing: to
our side, far up the river, just beneath the upper rapids,
Knowing there must be a large gathering of natives
there, and having so few men with me, I at first hesi-
tated about going up ; but remembering what a sudden
dash might do, when not expected, I started u]) the
path. We pretty soon came to large manioc planta-
tions, and the noise of the rapids told us Ave were close
to them. The path took a sudden turn down to the
water's edge, and there lay a very large canoe with only

ill ^

one man in it ; he tried to push oft, but we made a
dash at it, seized the end, and he jumped overboard.
He made a great noise, and I hid my men on the path
close to the canoe. Presently down came a woman
with a load of manioc, looking about her on every side.
as she had evidently heard the noise. AVe let her come
quite close, then made a dash, and caught her. We
tied her up and waited, when along came another
woman with a baby. We caught her too, but she

DIARY.

screamed fearfully, and I thought she would bring a
perfect hornets' nest about us; but the noise of the
rapids drowned her voice. In the meantime there were
now five men and two boys standing up to their necks
in the water, as we had got between them and the
canoe. The Soudanese officer advanced to the edge of
the water, and, pointing his gun at one of the boys,
he swore he would shoot him if he did not come out.
He came out, and we promptly collared him, tied the
two women together, and went oflf at the double for

.• 1887.
July 10.

Yambuya.

camp. We passed a great number of canoes full of
natives, close to the bank, who, when they saw our
prisoners, started ofi" at once for their villages across
river. Major Barttelot was delighted when I returned
with the captives. He sent the boy away to his village
to tell the chief that he would only give up the women
for goats and fowls, and that he must come and have a
palaver himself, as his people had not fulfilled their
promises to us, for which reason we had taken the
women. We gave the little chap four matakas for
himself. He had hardly gone, w^hen we observed a
canoe coming down river straight for camp, and the
enraged husband of the woman with the picaninny
arrived. Luckily he turned out to be the same man who
was here yesterday, and who had broken his promise of
bringing us fowls and goats. He now assured us he
would bring us five goats and ten fowls for his wife and
baby, if he might take them away. We told him that

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STORY OF THE BEAR COLUMN.

j^\q had he kept his former promises the women would not
rambuva have been taken, that the moment ten goats, twenty
chickens, and some honey for the baby were brought
over, the two women and the child would be given back
at once. He promised to come to-morrow morning
without fail, and left camp quite gaily, shaking hands
with everyone all round. This will bring things to a
definite issue, either peace and trade, or war. The
two surviving cheeping chickens were slaughtered for
our Sunday dinner, and an excellent little stew they
made — the first bit of meat we have had for a good
many days, and oh such a small bit !

Juli/ 11th. — After breakfast the native arrived to
palaver about his wife. He brought one fowl and some
fish to show that he was in earnest. We allowed him
to see the women and the baby. He said the chief
was up the river somewhere. I then went off to look
after the men cutting poles, taking my small gun and
butterfly-net with me ; so the collecting has begun at
last ! The butterflies are rather disappointing, as there
are not many diflerent from those on the Congo, nor as
large a variety. Returned at 11.45, and found Barttelot
had been palavering nearly all morning with the native
about his wife, and was very sick of it. He anived
again after lunch, but refused to come into camp. I
went out with the men again, and heard tremendous
shouting amongst them ; and found that the natives
had seized Omari, one of the donkey-boys, and taken
him across the river. He had strict orders not to go
out of sight of the camp ; but he left the donkeys, and
went to the next village w^here the natives sell fish,
and there they seized him ; so he has only himself to
blame for it. If the gentleman comes about his wife
to-morrow, he will find himself tied up, and told he
will be shot if Omari is not given up. I am sure they
had not meant to capture any of our men, as they had
a dozen fowls and a goat in the canoe, which they were
bringing as part ransom for the woman. On seeing
Omari, the sudden idea must have entered their heads

: 1^ > L<iih.^a»

DIARY.

to take him prisoner. IJarttolot is sufFering from a
kind of low fever. At present our situation with the
natives is this : — we have two fowls and some fish, two
women and a baby ; the natives have got Omari. I hope
thinijs v.ill be straightened out a little to-morrow.
Visitod sentries last night as usual.

July 12th. — Gave orders this morning that no man
is to leave camp without an order from Barttelot or
myself, nor without a rifle. One of the Somalis died
to-day ; he has been ill for a long time, and had almost
entirely lost the use of his legs. Barttelot still seedy ;
he eats simply nothing. Certainly plain boiled rice
and musty beans do not encourage a weak appetite.

Juhj 13f/i. — After parade sent the men to continue
clearing the river-bank, and to deepen the ditch at both
ends where it joins the boma. At the end next the
spring the bottom of the ditch is stone, and the men
have regularly to quarry it. They have built a wall
across the end, which would be quite a respectable one,
even in Ireland. The natives have made no signs of
coming to terms. I shot a small bird, black, with white
spots on the wings, which is quite new to me. After
lunch had a tremendous time amongst my collections,
drying them in the sun. Killed one of the chickens,
and ate it stewed in rice for dinner. A little bit of
meat like this is a great godsend, but I man?ge to
thrive wonderfully on rice and beans. I proposed
to-day that one of us ought to take Matajabu and some
of the Soudanese to-morrow to the place where the
natives land for manioc, and, hiding the men, see if
Matajabu cannot get them to have a palaver.

July \^th. — Had to begin the day by flogging a
sentry, whom I caught so sound asleep that I had to
strike him three times with a stick before he awoke.
To this class of men we have to trust ourselves at
night ! Major Barttelot took Matajabu and some of the
Soudanese to palaver with the natives. They proposed
to give back Omari and six fowls for the women ; but

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1887.
July 11.

laiubuya.

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STOltr OF THE UK Alt COLUMN.

1887.
July 14.

Tambuya.

liarttelot told them if they did not bring Omari, five
goats, and twenty fowls, the women would cease to
exist. They came in the afternoon, and asked to see
the women, thinking we had already killed them. ^Ve
allowed the women to go just outside the gate. The
husband stood about 150 yards off; and the conversation
was kept up by screaming and shouting, the women
telling the men they were fools, and calling them bad
names for not bringing the fowls and goats, and freeinc;
them. The husband then brought six fowls and a kid
as an instalment of the ransom. Omari, who was in
the canoe, says the kid is the only one in the village;
he tells us they treat him very well.

July Ihth. — Began to-day to cut vv^ood for the
Stanley. We have only five axes, three of which are
almost useless ; so it promises to be a long business, for
we have to cut wood for ten days. The natives came
again with a few more fowls, and a promise to get five
goats from a village lower down the river. They asked
first for the baby, then for the mother ; but were told
that when they brought the ransom they would get them.
Just before returning to camp this afternoon I heard the
natives making a fearful noise, and then two shots were
fired. I was certain it must be Tippu-Tib's people
arriving ; but on getting into camp I found a very dif-
ferent state of affairs. It appears that the two Sou-
danese guarding the women had taken them down to
the river to wash. When their backs were turned, the
women jumped into the river. The one without the
baby was caught, and Omaha, one of the Soudanese
officers, and another man jumped in and swam after the
other ; they caught her, but were surrounded by canoes
with armed natives in them, and were obliged to let her
go. A number of the Soudanese had run down the
bank after them, and fired two shots at the canoes, but
without any effect. All our chances of goats and fowls
are gone, I fear, as the natives do not seem to care a
bit about the other woman, — and they have got Omari.
The position now is : — we have got eight fowls, a kid,

l> ^ , 1 1 i*Wi»*

DIAliY.

some fish, and one woman ; tlie natives have got back a
woman and the baby, and still have Omari : so I should
say the balance is in their favour. Major Barttelot is a
little better to-day, as I have persuaded him to take
some Liebig and sago, for he cannot eat the rice and
beans.

Julti 16^/i. — AVhilst out with the men this morning I
shot a woodpecker and a very pretty bird, which I
believe to be a redstart or some species of warbler.
Matajabu has succeeded in making a very good skin
of it. On return to camp, I found Omari had effected
his escape from the natives, and reached camp. It
appears that last night they forgot to tie him up as
usual, and he got into a canoe and came down river.
He was followed, and did not reach this side until far
below the camp at the big native village. His pursuers
shouted out to the men on shore to catch him;
but he got into the water amongst the bushes at the
side of the river, and managed to elude them, getting
back to camp all safe. It was a very plucky thing for
a small boy like himself to do. He says the natives
treated him well, and that when the woman and the
child got back, the chief told his men to seize any of
our men they could. The husband of the woman
whom we still have came to-day, and offered to ransom
her. He says that they wish to re-occupy the villages
up river. Major Barttelot says he will certainly
not allow them to do so, as they are much safer
on ihe other side. He believes the man who came
over to-day had leprosy, and he got rid of him as
quickly as possible. The position is now altered with
regard to ourselves and the natives. They have got one
woman and the baby back. We have got Omari back,
still have one woman, one kid, eight or nine fowls, and
some fish ; so I think the balance is now in our favour.
A tremendous thunderstorm came on to-night, and my
house is flooded and my bed wet. I had no time
to-day to put the tarpaulin on the roof. The smell
from the wet rotten grass on it is frightful, and I
should say anything but healthy.

1887.
July 16.

YambuyA,

I !

STOHr OF THE REAR COLUMN.

V ' ii

1887.
July 17.

Tambuya.

July \lthy Sunda//. — Awoke at 5 o'clock, to find it
raining away steadily. It cleared up, however, before
7, and we sent tlie men off to clear the rest of tho
village. Shortly after 10 o'clock down came the rain
again ; and we knocked the men off work for the dav,
as it was pay-day, and a half-holiday in any case. Just
as we were finishing our usual repast of rice and boans
at mid-day, the leprous native arrived with two others.
and brought a fair-sized goat, which we took, givini;
him back the woman. Great rejoicings took place
amongst the natives ; and I do hope they will come and
trade after this. Spent most of my day in etching, and
writing out a new store-book, lists of men, rations
issued, &c. Our position with the natives now is:~
we have got two goats, nine fowls, and some fish, with
a promise that they will trade ; and they have got back
both their women and the baby.

July 18th. — Had to flog a sentry this morning,
Caught him sound asleep at 4 a.m. Major Barttclut
and I still take turns in going the rounds. My hours
for going the rounds are — a little after 8 p.m. widi
Barttelot, then alone at 11, 2, and 4. It is wonderful
how one wakes every night within a quarter of an liour
of the hours without being called. The big drum is
sounded at 5 o'clock, the men fall in at 5.30, and are
all started off to work before 6 o'clock. Went off
woodcutting again, also cutting poles for Barttelot's
new house. The dews are so heavy here at night that
in going through the bush and manioc plantations one
gets soaked, and has to dry gradually as the sun gets
up. Shot a black and white finch, and a very handsome
pair of birds, with beaks like barbets. I also got a
lovely warbler that I have never seen before, olive-
green in colour, with grey breast and yellow spots on
the wings, and a yellow line over the eyes. I took out
my birds' skins to give them a drying in the sun, when,
to my horror, I found a number of small black-beetles
(grey underneath), hard at work eating them. How
they got into my tin box is a mystery to me. They

^'lll.lllWllH*!

DIART.

liavc d imaged several skins, " bad luck to them," and
are the same kind that used to cat our antelope skins
in South Africa. I shall now only use the arsenical

soap

I bouj'ht at Zanzibar.

One soldier managed to

buy a little fish to-day.

/«/// l^fli. — It is hopeless to send the men out with
auv oi' the muniaparas (chiefs), as they sit down and
let tlic men do just as they like; the consequence is
[hat hom 6 a.m. until after 11 in the forenoon, and
tiom l.oO until after 5 p.m., I have to do nothing but
staiul over them and make them work. It is a wretched
wav to spend one's time. It is only by sitting up at
niijlit, and on the Sunday half-holiday, that I get any
time to do anything. I have now 25 birds' skins, and
this morning added some lovely specimens to my
buttcrtiy collection. Spread two tarpaulins over tlie
roof of my house, hoping to prevent tlie rain from
tiooding it as the last did. The Majors house is now
in an advanced state, as nearly all the framework is up.
Fared sumptuously to-day, lunching off a stewed pigeon
and dining off a stewed chicken. There has been no
trading with the natives. The rats are getting very
numerous in my house, and I must begin to shoot
them, or, if I get the time, make a trap. They fight
and scamper about across the floor and over the boxes
without taking the slightest notice of anyone.

Juhj 2^th. — Spent the whole day with the men
cutting and carrying wood. I took my painting
things out with me in the hopes that I might be able
to get a few sketches of some of the principal trees ;
but what with looking after the men, and my drawing
being visited (whilst wet) by every known species of
insect, I found it a veiy hopeless task. The moment
that you move a few yards from the men they stop
cutting, and when you shout at them to show that you
are quite close, they cut a few strokes, stop, and wait
until you shout again ; then at last you fling down
everything in a rage, rush at them, sweav, threaten and
"cuss" the chief as well as the men, then go back to find

1887.
July 18.

Yambuya.

STORY OF THE ItEAll COLUMN.

i H

July 30. ^^^ y<^"^ thinpfs one mass of ants, and that the monha,,
Yambuja. Stopped cutting again, when you give it up, and «r() (i,i,i
sit down on a log beside them. Of course, if oir. „„iy
li.-id a decent chief, things would be very different. Jnst
after lunch I heard two sliots fired, and found tknt twi,
of the Soudanese stated that tliey had been surrounded
by the natives, and had fired. I wish they would shoot
some one when they do fire, as ever since that woman
escaped and the Soudanese fired two shots and hit
nothing — not even a canoe — the natives now swear
tliat the guns are harmless. One miserable caiioo.
with some stale fish for sale, was the only sign of trade
to-day.

July 2\st. — The chief of my men being ill, I could
not leave them for five minutes all day, so I had a
really nice time of it. The weather has been lovely

ever since Mr. Stanley left, broken only by a few
thunderstorms. The prevailing winds are from the
westward. We finished our last plantain to-day, and
have only two more fowls left, a kid and a goat ; I see
no chance of getting any more, for the natives do not
trade, or offer to, in the least. As a last resource we
must catch some more of their women.

July 22nd. — Woodcutting without a chief over the
men is pretty bad when you are well, but when you

,1 h

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LIAHY.

have a rackiii}^ licudiicho, and arc full of rheumatism, it
is sini[)ly — dotestal)le. So 1 found it to-day. Major
Hiirttc'lot is himself a^ain, I am happy to say. Trade
still stagnant.

Juljl 2orrZ. — Some men, I lielieve they were Zanzi-
baris, tried to steal our two p;oats last ni<;ht, but were
surprised, and did not succeed, althou*;]! they mana<^ed
to <j;et away witho\it bcnn^ identified. Tlic men, ])oth
Soudanese and Zanzibaris, arc in a very discontented,
mutinous state, and I shall be very ^lad when either
Xippu-Tib's people or the steamer arnve.

Juhj 2itK Sunday. — Bepjan the day by flopririnir one
nf the sentries, whom I caui^hlf sound asleep last ni<j;ht,
as early as 8 o'clock. So fast asleep was ho that I took
away his gun from him without awakening him. Ilalf-
lioliday to-day, so the men only worked till 11.30.
Tlie Major went down river on an exploring trip.
He brought back some delicious ripe bananas. We
killed the small goat this morning, and the consequence
is, we have simply feasted like kings. In a conver-
sation after dinner, Bantelot and I came to the con-
clusion that, in all the countries we have been to, we
have never seen any place so utterly devoid of all sport
as this. There is not a game-bird of any kind, and I
have only once seen the tracks of a wild pig. He came
back to-day quite delighted because he had found a lot
of salt for his men in the village they visited; but
when one of the men — having, I suppose, tried it —
broiig'it some of it up to my house, I told the Major
what it really was — gum-copal.

Ju/y 25M. — Barttelot caught one of my men asleep
last night, and took his rifle away, without awakening
him, to his tent. This morning I asked him where his
rifle was, when Barttelot was standing beside me on
parade. The man coolly said some Zanzibar! had stolen
it, and described his dress, and was greatly astonished
when the Major told him it was in his tent. As the
man was only a poor half-demented sort of creature,

July '2-2.
Yutubuya

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STony OF Tiih: rear column.

1887.
July 2A.

Yambuja.

vvljo, ns I told my chief, <)iijj:ht novcr to liavc hovw %
f^Uiird, I only ^avo him six li^ht strokes with a raiip fur
form's sake. I tliiiik tlio Zanzil)aris aro quite th(! most
barefaced liars I ever met in my life. One ni^ht I took
a rifle from one of the sentries wlio was asleej), mni
brouj^ht it to my house, leavin*; it a«?ainst a palm at the
door. I went hack and woke up the; sentry, askinirhii,,
where his ijun was. lie at once took liold of the; other
man's j^un, and said that was liis. I told him to come
with me, and that I would sliow him wliere it was,
which I did, and he then calmly told me, oh yes, he
had left it there, and makin*^ a sign witli liis finircr
across his throat, said I might cut it if he liad bcHMi
asleep. lie found out, however, who had taken it whin
he got his 2o strokes iii the morning. It is n^ully a
great shame the state our biscuits are in ; we opened a
fresli box to-day, one of the tiu-lined ones, and the
water had got in so that the tiscuits were a mass of
blue mould, weevils, and small maggots. The onlv
way we can eat them is by roasting them in tlie
hot embers or in the frying-pan, which kills the " bastes."
I have no doubt that they are more nourishing with the
quantity of animal matter in them, but we prefer them
without.

\y'<

July 2(V/i. — Shot a sandpiper with ruffs on the neck.
The country was frightfully wet, so \iajor Barttelot did
not go on his usual exploring expedition. After lunch,
I made a sketch of him seated on the old drum opposite
my door, with all its surroundings. I cannot belif3ve
this to be so large a river as is supposed, for last night's
rain, though apparently local, was sufficient to raise the
river at the very least two feet, and from the highest
rapids down as far as we could see was a smootli un-
broken sheet of water. Yesterday there were three
distinct bars of broken water across the river, in some
of which the rocks were showing. This rapid rise takes
place whenever we have any heavy rain, and the river
falls with equal rapidity. A terrible calamity happened
to-day. The uncooked piece of the goat which was

•.".I illM»^lii«

1)1 A nv.

huui; op ^^^^ Tii^'^it* l)oin«j affortod by tlio tluindcTstKrm,
[ siipixisc, took it into its l;;»a(l to |^o hiul, luul so >vc
liiivc only "iir small scnq) left for to-morrow, and moat
is very, vrry pr(M:ious.

Juhj 'llth. — Shot one pif^con, two woodpockcMs, and
a swallow. The mon wrro ^roatly astonished at my
shootiiifj; tho swallow. Ho was fiyinjj; vory hifjjli and
fast, iiiid cominfjf straifijht at me ; ho foil yards behind
niv l)ack, amidst all sorts of exclamations! Wo are
down a«j;ain on rice and beans, very wholesome, but
not appetizing !

Juhj 2Sth. — The men still splitting]; wood, and I make
them work in relays, so that none of them are idle all
(lav. One of the Zanzibaris died to-day, a poor miser-
able little man, whom I always thon«j;ht half-witted.
We bought some honey to-day, and opened a tin of
butter, half a teaspoonful of which, added to the rice
aud beans, makes them slip down in a way they never
did before. Did a little etching, wrote a lot of pages
for home consumption, and had out all the birds. I
have a busy time of it, but life is very much pleasanter
than it was.

Juli/ 2dth. — Poor old Derrier Moussa, a Somali, who
has been our cook for the greater part of our journey,
died to-day. He has been ill for a long time. It is
horrible to watch these men slowly dying before your
iiice, and not be able to do anything for them. The
moment a man falls really ill with dysentery, or any
other affection of the stomach, he slowly wastes away,
becoming a living skeleton, sometimes lingering for
weeks before he finally goes out. Shot a woodpecker
and a weaver-bird ; the latter of the bright rich golden
kind, with black neck and throat.

July 30th. — Had a bad night to go round the sentries,
for shortly after 11 p.m. it commenced to thunder, blow,
and rain in torrents, continuing until 5 a.m. Barttelot
started with 20 Soudanese for a big village down river,
but he found the natives had bolted, taking everything

July '>{).
YatnbuyAi

'(
^

' I

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
July 30.

Yambuya.

with them, so our visions of goats and fowls are dis.
pelled. I shot a swift with a curious spined tail, each
feather of which ends in a short bare point like a needle.
I also got a large, handsome, black-and-orange weaver-
bird, and the hen of the spur-winged plover.

July 31s#, Sunday. — Shot a nightjar, with which I
was quite elated, as it is the first I have seen here, and
was a very difficult snap-shot, flying very fast through a
lot of high manioc.

ill

lilL

JJ^.

jOWt WLWLII II ,.,1111 1 nil

t"_ ; ■ ,,

ii t

i,>

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am^

Letter to Mrs. Jan:
— Reported a
party. — His s
Tippu-Tib's p(
Tit) s Arabs tc
Abdullah pur
Stanley Falls,
at the 'Falls.-
— Native wrei
— Return to
Mahommed.-
Tippu-Tib.— 1
for l'alb.-A
surgical skill.-
coming down
prevent trade
Ward's house
by Arabs. — C

EXTllACI

July 21th, 18
Stanley left
anived, and \
should they n
Mr. Stanley c
goodness knc
November. T
do not like to
I must make
August 1st
tollecting, et(
not I don't
Now that th(

•:^Vm

MMn

( 99 )

I: !i

i m

CHAPTER V.

July 27th to Dkcembkr Slsr.

Letter to Mrs. Jameson. — No news of Tippu-Tib. — Promise to protect nativea.
—Reported arrival of Tippu's men. — Keturn of deserter from Stanley's
paviy. — His statement. — Arrival of the Stanley. — Raid on the natives by
Tippu-Tib's peopl e. — Final departure of the Statihy. — First visitof Tippu-
Tib s Arabs to Yambuya Camp. — Hoimy crosses river to native village. —
Abdullah punished for stealing an axe. — Jameson and Ward start for
Stanley Falls. — Natives offer to make them princes, — Yalisula. — Arrival
at the Falls. — Received by Tippu-Tib. — He explains non-arrival of men.
—Native wrestling-match. — Jameson makes Tippu present of big rifle,
— Return to Yambuya. — Soudanese punished for theft. — Sehm bin
Mahommed. — Arabs shoot down natives. — Disappointing news from
Tippu-Tib. — Rumours of Stanley's return. — Barttelot and Troup start
for Falls. — A man possessed by a devil. — Deserter's story. — lionny's
surgical skill. — The Major returns. — Omaha. — Report of a white man
coming down river. — Fresh disappointment. — Jaundice. — Arabs try to
prevent trade with natives. — Burgari Mahommed steals meat from
Ward's house. — Living skeletons. — Three dreams. — Ungungu captured
by Arabs. — Christmas Day. — Fresh trouble between Arabs and natives.

EXTRACTS FROM A LETTER TO MRS. JAMESON.

July 271^/^,1887. — ... It is just a month since Mr.
Stanley left us here. Tippu-Tib's men have not yet
anived, and we are both very anxious about them, for
should they noi turn up we shall have to wait here until
Mr. Stanley comes back from Lake Albert Nyanza, and
goodness knows when that may be, perhaps not until
November. The men are mutinous enough already, and I
do not like to think of what they will be like before then.
I must make a lit<-l.e sketch-map of the Camp for you.

August 1st. — I am so thankful that I have a taste for
collecting, etching, and things of that kind, for had I
not I don't know how I could possibly exist here.
Now that the i^hole of the fortifications are finished,

II 2

1R87.
July T.

Yambuya

I ■ ■ )i

i !

1 1'

1^ h

■ ';

' 1' ' ■

^^M|i|

100

STORY OF CUE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
August I.

Yauibuya.

ii; -I

sii

there is nothing to be done but cut wood for the
steamer. I manage to enliven that work by takinji; mv
collecting-gun and butterfiy-net with me, and genoiallv
manage to pick up something. All my spare timo in
camp is taken up with skinning, attending to colk'c^
tions, drawing and writing, so that it is very seldom I
have a single idle moment. Barttelot does none of
these things, so I am afraid he often finds me a poor
companion, and the time falls rather heavily on his
hands, although he is a most active man, and ahvays
wants to be busy at something. I don't think Stanley
could have left a better man here in command. The
natives have deserted all the villages for miles round,
and gone over to the other side of the river, unfortu-
nately taking all their goats and chickens with them.
So there is no loot of any kind, although we continually
make long excursions, seeking what we may devour.
AVe sometimes come suddenly upon a large village and
find not a living thing in it, although the fires are still
smoking, and it has evidently been full of life only a
few minutes before. How they know we are coming
often puzzles me. I have got about half a dozen nice
spears, two fine shields, and four very fine battle-knives,
which will make a nice addition to our collection.

August ^rcl. — I will now tell you something about
our entrenched camp and its .irroundings. As you
will see in the plan, it is shaped in a sort of triano-le,
the river forming one side, a natural ravine and part of
a ditch another, and the rest of the ditch the third.
Our chief defence is a strong palisade surrounding the
whole camp, composed of strong poles placed jlose
together, about 3 feet deep in the ground, and 10 feet
high, with long horizontal bars fastened along it.
There are only two gates. The main gate, D, looks up
the river over a large fiat clearing where the rest of the
village originally stood. The other gate, E, is at the top
of the steep path down to the river, the bank of which
can only be ascended at this one point ; there is another
opening in the palisade down to the spring C. The
ditch is 10 feet from the palisade, 7 feet wade, and
4 J deep ; so that the place is pretty strongly fortified

'1. .'.iJuMMnni

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S- - r ?

— 3n

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li_= ?^ C

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{ifrainst ufiti
nuu-kcd "'^
^vluc•h we
anyone attaj
{our raised
commands
the ditch at
over 50 yarJ
to 200 yard!
yards wide.]
drawn on
roundings ;
it is lilie.
vou see m?
to the othe]
village, wh
upper rapic
and the oi
native path
and leadin*:
August <
to-night tal
cheer us b
and I pnll
would be
should do
cially to le
terribly dii
to think o
useful as
not care ii
as every s
wonderful
country.

August
cognized
with the
amongst
etch one

I, j:

l\'- ■!. iLiini III"*" *""

DIARY.

103

flf^ainst natives ^without guns. The places y
niiuked " Clearing " were all originally dense

ou see

1887.
, , August 3.

mse bush, Y^^j,^^,
which we cut down and carried away, so as to see
anyone attacking from that side. Inside the camp are
four raised platforms, to hold six men, each of which
commands a long range on every side, and can sweep
the ditch and ravine up and down. The camp is not
over 50 yards wide at its broadest part, and about 150
to 200 yards long. The river here is from 600 to 700
vards wide. In my plan you will see that the camp is
drawn on a much larger scale than any of its sur-
roundings ; this I did to give you a better idea of what
it is like. All the natives who inhabited the places
you see marked " Old village cleared " have gone over
to the other side of the river, and formed one immense
village, where you will see it marked just under the
upper rapids. The road Stanley has taken to the Lake,
and the one we hope soon to be travelling, is an old
native path going from village to village up the river,
and leading nearly due east.

August t>tli. — Barttelot and I sat on after dinner
to-night talking of home and old times. These chats
cheer us both up immensely. I am so glad that he
and I pull so well together, for if we did not, life here
would be unbearable. I wonder how he guessed we
should do so well together ; for he asked Stanley espe-
cially to leave me with him. I cannot help still feeling
terribly disappointed at not having gone on ; but I try
to think of it as little as possible, and make myself as
useful as I can here. After leaving for the Lake, I do
not care if I never have time to collect a single thing,
as every step will be one nearer home. ... It will be
wonderfully interesting marching through that new
country.

DIARY (continued),

August 1st. — Bank holiday in England, but not r'»-
cognized on the Aruwimi river. Barttelot went out
with the men woodcutting, so that I had a great time
amongst my birds and butterflies, and also found time to
etch one of the giants of the forest here. The natives

f.i.'"

104

STOliir OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
August It

Jfambuya.

■I

I I'

have heard that Tippu-Tib's people are on their wav
here, which is joyful news for us, but as these natives
are the same as those who killed a lot of his people sonio
time afj;o, they believe that the men are not comin;^^ to
us, but to revenge lliemselves upon them, so they sav
that they will remain on the other side of the river, and
bring us no more fish or honey. If this news be true,
it is a splendid thing for us, as we shall be able to start
for the Lake almost immediately after the arrival of tlie
Stanley. We are beginning to have a little too much
of rice and bean^, and each time we pass the goat, still
in camp, our glances have a terrible look of liunger in
tliem, and I don't think he will survive another dav or
two.

August 2nd. — No more news of Tippu-Tib, but the
natives will not trade. A lot of black weaver-birds
have made a colony in the palms over my house, and
have stripped all the other palms, far and near, of their
leaves, for the nests. It is very interesting to watch
them building their nests. They tear a long thin slij)
off a palm leaf, hold it tight to the side of the nest with
one foot, take hold of the loose end in the beak, push
it through a small hole in the side, pull it out throii»>h
another, and make it fast, using the unemployed foot
as Avell as the beak the whole time, regularly weaving
the strip of leaf in and out in a wonderful manner.

August ^rd. — Last night I caught two of the men
asleep on sentry duty. This morning, on parade, I told
one of them that, as I had never caught him before and
he had had a hard day's woodcutting, I would let him
off with a caution; but he at once proceeded to say
that he had not been asleep at all, and had been
sitting up awake. When I caught him, he was lying
on the ground at full length, and I gave him two
kicks before he even stiiTed. However, he persisted
in the lie, and I ordered him twenty-five, at the
same time explaining it was for the lie he was
flogged. Taking thirty men with me I went to the big
village down river, where Barttelot had been abou<
a week ago, and on our way we passed a strongly

All (/lid Mil.-
with Barttelot
be here in tv
They have be!
and arc evidei
to have great ^

'I>i

DIARY.

105

ttorkadod village, the gate of which liad hoen newly
|)l()('k(Ml np. AN c had to climb over and cut it away from
inside. Some of the huts here were most beautiful, quite
works of art. I have not seen any like them ; they are
veiy low, their walls about 4 ft. hi<j:h, perfectly circular,
(luiing in a dome-shaped roof. I am going back to
nmkc sKctches of them. The large village we found to
be deserted. The natives here place a number of small
sharp si)ikes of very hard wood round their huls, and
ill tlic paths ; the points stick up, and are calculated to
;rive very nasty wounds to bare feet. We found that
all the people Avere encamped on the opposite side of
the river, and when they saw us they set up the most
hideous noise, yelling, beating drums, and blowing large
horns. As they did not attempt to attack us, we ])ro-
(ceded to gather quantities of corn, bananas, plantains,
find tobacco, all the men returning to camp well
loiided. On my arrival in camp, in the absence of Major
Ikirtt'dot, I intemewed a native, who informed me lliat
a uuinber of Zarizibaris were coming down the river in
canoes, and hcid fought the natives, and burnt the village
al)()vc the rapids, where their chief was, in spite of
their having told them that they were " blood-brothers "
nf Bula Matadi ; and he asked if he might move all
the people across to the deserted village above camp,
that we might protect them. I told him I would allow
him to occupy the deserted village below camp, and
that tlien we should be between them and their enemies.
lie fairly shouted with joy. I gave him a small piece
of cloth, and sent him off to tell his people that we
would not hurt them, and would try and keep others
from doing so. I cannot understand Tippu-Tib's people
foming (loimi the river, unless they struck it far above
us. They ought to be here to-morrow.

/bujust ith. — The natives came and had a palaver
with liarttelot, telling him that Tippu-Tib's people will
be here in two days, and again asking for protection.
They have begun to occupy the villages on this side,
and are evidently in an awful fright, though they seem
to have OTeat confidence in us.

1R«7.
Aiitiimt 3.

Yumbujii.

.. 'Ill

, ^^ !.;!^

lUO

STOIty OF TJiK UEAli COLUMN,

?a\

yv-

:ii:i

1887.
Aufrust 5.

Yainbuya.

:!: I. i

'"^^^^^^^^f^.

August hth, — We at last summoned up sufficient
courage to kill the goat, in spite of the great uncer-
tainty as to when we shall get another, but one really
cannot live altogether on rice and beans, and see a live
goat walking about, and eating the grass in camp,
As tliere was too much meat to use whilst fresh, I cut
off all from the hind legs into strips, salted it, and hung
it in the sun to dry. No more news of Tippu-Tib's
people. One of the Soudanese officers told me that
there were four Zanzibaris about a mile from camp,
right at the end of the furthest village, buying stuff
from the natives. I put on my hat and started oft" to
catch them, and found them at the very spot where the
officer said they were. They were awfully astonished
when I came upon them ; they had broken every one of
our rules, they were far from camp without rifles, had

DiAitr,

lu,

not askod leave to ^o, and liad doliboratoly loft thoir
work. The officer told me the same four were there
everv day ; each man had five or six matakas with liim,
ami this made me nearly certain the chiefs liad sent
them, althongh of conrse they denied it. Some one
must have ^iven them matakas to pjo with, for they only
(ret one each a week, I was ^ow^ to have them fiogj^ed
as an example, but Major Barttelot advised me to fine
them each the amount of matakas they had. Tliis will
punish whoever <?ave them the matakas, so I told them
that I would let them off the flofijf^ing, and for the next
five or six weeks would pay them out of their own
matakas.

Aiif/nst Gth. — The Major went out in the morning
with the Avoodcutters, whilst I looked after camp,
and the men were employed stacking wood. I dried
and packed ready for home all my Aruwimi collec-
tion of buttei'fiies, consisting of just 100 specimens,
(lid a little etching, dried the beltong, and went through
my birds before packing. I have had the old flag
of my company tied to tlie highest post in the boma,
til at Tippu-Tib's people can make no mistake and
pass us*.

August 7th. — After breakfast Barttelot went off with
some Zanzibaris and Soudanese to a village some dis-
tance away from the river, and returned with a splendid
lot of plantains. The natives are evidently still in a great
fright, as they send all their women every night down
to the village below camp, and the nien themselves
sleep on this side of the river, above it. No news of
Tippu's people ! Hoisted another flag at the river-gate,
so that no one can very well miss us passing down

* From letter to Mrs. Jameson, Aurfust dth. — "I do hope Tippu-Tib's
people will come soon, and then we shall be able to start for the Lakes
at once, and save some months. Had the wonderful tieet of steamers
of the King of the Bcl,u;ians, which Stanley s[)uke about before leaving
Kni,'iiiiid, really existed, we could all have gone on to the Lake at ouo
time, and saved six weary months, which have been added on to this
trip."

18S7.
Yuiubujra.

.J)

I r

lOS

UTORV OF THK It EAR COLVMX.

1887.
/Lu«ii!<t 7.

Yuuiluya.

tlio riviM*. Still feasting: away like kini^'s on tlic oM
l^oat. We'll miss him wIumi lie's i^ioiic!

AiKjnst Sth. — Started the men at l)uil(lin«jf a liospitnl,

A(ti/iist \)tli. — Major Harltelot and I are both decidcdh
seedy. \'ery biid news to-day, aec'ordin»j: to \\lii(ii
the supposed 'J'i]>|)u's men up-river are a body of wan-
dering Arabs, who are lootiiiij; and destroying: evon
villaLje they come across. 'J'his is a dreadful dam|)(M' tii
us, as we were sure they wore Tipj)U-'i'il)'s nuMi, althoii^^rli
from the bejj^inninij: 1 was ])uzzled to understand wliv
they were eomin<j: down the river in eanoes. The native
who came over and told us this returned this afternoon
with a small ])ot of palm-oil. He seems to betir us nn
ill-will for haN in«]: taken his wife and child, but was as
merry as possible.

Auffihst l{)f/i. — Heard heavy firin^ij uj) the river in
the direction of the Arab camp. One of the nion
lost one of the axes to-day. lie was ^'oin<jj out witli
the rest of the men woodcuttin«j;, and stop])ed just
outside the boma to sharpen the axe on a lar<ie fiat
stone, after which he left it on the side of the road, and
ran back into camp for a moment to get somethiny.
On retuinins'- he found the axe u:one. He savs that
Munic handi and Sonu:()ro were close behind him when
he left it, but they both deny havin^^ seen it. I hav(>
told him that unless it is found he will be fined 2-')
dollars. Some of our own men, either Zanzibaris or
Soudanese, must have stolen it to sell to the natives,
as they have asked for one several times, and no one
else but our own men could have stolen it. The Major
says the best plan Avill be to stop all the men's matnkas
until it is produced. Saw a couple of rollers hawking
away from the top of the highest tree near camp. I
shot them both, and they are different from any I have
shot in S. Africa.

August 11th. — Told the men this morning on parade
that not a single mataka would be issued until the axe
Avas found and the man who stole it. If this does not
get it back, nothing will, but there were no signs of it

this evening.
(,|,riU«"s, one I
j^ v,.ry curioul
lonir'l'i'obnscl
'["ippu-Tib's i|

Auqnd VI
t.wlav. liiiv
\v(' siiw a A
Iraiiing (m '<^
„n(. of StanU
liouse, and i
ajjpears he h
i„(r for a mo
iiiuij; into th
'lliis they ha
another, beii
Mv. Stanley
but to go S(
until they w(
them, but th
iVi<ilitf»dly d(
^vere all "svell
men had son
>ver(^ so wea
used to caiT;
one day the^
men, a goat
first of all si
away, and
drowned in
days from tl
time. The
They passe
manioc wai
eat the grei
captured in
his rifle, ai
are going 1
morrow, w
this news <

viAur.

100

fills (voninj;. Shot four hcantiful l)(>o-onl(M"s \\\u\ two
slirilvcs. one Mnck, tlic otlicr hliick and white, l-'omid
n vdv (Miiions small rat or mouse in the ditch with a
l,in<; ))r()l)os('is lik(> an elej)hant's trunk. No si^n uf
'linpii-'rib's men or the stciuncr.

A>fi/>ff<t Vlfh. — News of Stanley arrived unexpeetedly
to-day. Harttelot and T werestandinu: at the pite, when
we saw a /anzihari coniiufj; alon^ the ui)-river road,
IcaniufX "i> '^ stick, very hune. We re('o«^!iized in him
one ot" Stanley's ])arty. Harttelot and 1 took him to my
house, and interviewed him. From wliat he says it
aupcars he left Mr. Stanley after they had been mareli-
iiii!: for a month, when they reached a lar<j:e river run-
iiiiiu: into the Aruwimi, on this hank, from the south.
This tliey had to cross in the boat; and this man and
another, bein<i: too done u]) to j^o on, were left behind,
Mr. Stanley advising; tliem not to remain in the caniji,
Itiit to ^o some distance into i\\v l)ush and wait there
until they were stronjjjer. Th(> natives s])eare(l one of
tliem, but this man made his escape, and got back iiero
fn<i;htfully done up and with very sore feet. 'I'he officers
were all well, but there was great scarcity of food. The
men had sometimes been four days without food, and
were so w^cak that as many as twenty had often to be
used to cany one section of the boat. It a])])ears that
one day they succeeded in ca])turing a large canoe, four
men, a goat, and some women with babies. They had
first of all shot one man in the canoe. The wonuui ran
away, and left the babies in the camp, so they were
drowned in the river. Stairs had to be carrii^l twelve
days from this camp, so he must have been ill for some
time. The road is level and all through dense bush.
They passed many villages, but the majority of the
manioc was very small, with no roots, so they had to
eat the green tops. Mr. Stanley put tlie four natives
captured in chains, also one of the Soudanese who lost
his rifle, after giving him 170 strokes with a rod. A\'e
are going to have a regular examination of the man to-
morrow, writing down the questions and answers, a?
this news of Stanley is important.

1SS7.
Aiiu'ii^t 11.

^ iiiiihiiyn.

110

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN,

1887.
August 13.

Yambuya.

Augiist Vdth. — Yestordny bciiii2j the first day of |Tjron>o.
shooting, Barttclot and I liad serious thoughts of takinir
a whole holiday, but, as the steamer is due, we tliou^lu
it better not to do so. Our friend tlie native came
over and offered to take me to where tliere are buffalo.
not a day from here. He is very anxious we sliould
lend him ten men with rifie« to go and take a villairo
lower down, where there are goats and chiclvens, and
the men of wliich captured two of his wives some time
ago. The result of our cross-questioning of the man from
Stanley's party is this : — It took Mr. Stanley eiglitoen
days to reach tlie river, which they had to cross in a
boat. The road lies close to tlie river for two davs
after leaving this camp. All bomas were still staiidin<r
on the road when the man returned. Mr. Stanley made
a zariba in each village he camped in. Eight nion
were left sick on the road ; one Avas killed, six were left
in the bush, the last returned here. No men died on
the road. Only one skirmish with natives the day tliov
left here, at tlie village where they slept. One man
was wounded in the forehead with an arrow. In the
night four natives threw spears behind Mr. Stanley's
tent. There are six villages in the first two davs'
march ; none between that and the river they had to
cross. They walked for five days, Avhen the road l^^ft
the river through a swamp. This river was smaller than
the Aruwimi. Great want of food after the first two
days. After crossing, Mr. Stanley still appeared to con-
tinue along the main river. Mr. Stanley still had two
bags of rice, the other officers none ; but they still had
biscuit. They only got one goat, and no chickens, on
the march. They saw no game but elephants, and never
used the Maxim gur . The men were veiy weak. They
started each day at daybreak, marched till noon, cooked
and ate food, then marched until 5 o'clojk. The man
who returned, belonged to Nelson's company, and was
named ^Nloussa bin i Jhama. When they reached the river
runninc: into this one thev saw a canoe with eight men
in it, and a woman and baby, also a goat. I supi)ose
they would not stop, but in any case they were tired

m mtut

!SViasi ^Lrsvuf,t^K.tivKn rm m rti

DIARY.

Ill

iinbuja.

Upon, and three of the Q\\i\\i men shot. ISIr. Stanley ^^/,^J',3

then took the canoe, men, woman, goat, and some pots ym

of ]iahn-oil wliicli were in it. The men were taken

awav by INIr. Stanley as guides, and the voman escaped

in the night, leaving the baby in the cam]). The man

savs that Mr. Stanley ordered it to be thrown in tlie water

next morning*. x\.bo\it two days up the river, whilst he

vi.s Iving down, two elephants passed close to him.

Xliis is the man's account, translated by my boy Mata-

jabu.

\/'i-"*^^^A.

Mavajauu.

August 14#/i. — The Stanley arrived to-day. About
11.30 she was sighted coming round the bend, and 1
don't think anything ever gave me sucli a tluill of
pleasure as tliis news did, for I have looked forward
most anxiously for her arrival, as she brouglit us tlie
last letters we shall get until we reach Zanzibar. It
appears that a second time the Expedition was nearly
wrecked. My letters frc^m home revived all my fading
spirits, and I went to bed happier than I have been

* Mr. Stanley published in 'The Times' of Nov, 17th, 1890, the
stat'^ment of Saleh ben Osnum, another Zanzibari follower, as reliable
evidence of atrocities committed by Jameson and Barttelot. — Ed.

■ w

i'' -:

mi I

f..,

' i »'

< a
■J >)

i ■»

III Jl
• ^l', If ■ill

^>t

t ■ •:'!

i'h'i

112

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

i .1

' I

*8«7. for a long time, after sitting up till three in the morninfr

August 14. /• • 1 • "' t . , 1 ^

Yambuya. ^nishing my letter home.

August loth. — After lunch the natives '^nthe opposite
shore made a fearful noise, and began going down
stream as fast as they could. Then we heard shots, and
on running out with my glasses I saw the smoke still
hanging in the bushes behind the village, and a number
of natives swimming in the water. Presently our native
friend, with a few more, turned up, and said they had
been atti:cked by Tippu-Tib's people, and some of their
women taken. They begged for a white man to be sent
out to ask the Arabs not to fight them. Lots bcinc
drawn as to who should go, it fell to Bonny and Ward;
and they went over, but could see nothing of the Arabs,
who had decamped. Tiiey 1. ad killed two men and taken
some women.

August IGth. — Hard at work all day packing curios.
The Captain and Mr. Walker gave us a little help
towards our stores in cue way of some p( pper and a few

^HH5?

Native Drinking-bowls.

matches, of whicli we were sadly in want. Ward had
very bad news to-day, as he saw in one of the papers
that the steamer in which he had sent liome a large
collection of curios, and all his notes for the last two or
thi'ee years, had been run into and sunk in the jVIersey,

Angnst 17/
Started men 1
European pro
rations to Tro
three Zanziba
out who the^
the world. ^
Tib's men, an
employ our ti
6 A.M. for Lee

August 18/
the Arabs, w]
chief and tw(
and had a loi
It appears th
Tib to collec
ceedings, it
ivory. The
Sheik Rachi
a camp on T
mark, they 1
had gone o
on some riv (
name is A
send a lett*
us to the F;

!:i-l

DIARY.

113

with all her cargo. It was awfully cold, and rained
nearly all day.

The Stanley starts at 6 o'clock to-morrow morning.
She only brought us one goat and some plantains.
Hard lines, as the Major and I had been dreaming of
her decks crowded with goats and chickens ! I am
sending my boy Matajabu back to Leopoldville, as he
would only die on the road, not being strong enough to
keep up witli us, and then the natives would get him.
He is a great loss to me, as not only was he a capital
servant, but he could speak the language of the natives,
and was our interpreter with them and the Zanzibaris,
and he did all my bird-skinning.

AvfJ^fst 17 fh. — Settled down to our old work again.
Started men to cut poles for a mess-house. Opened
European provisions in order to give out three months*
rations to Troup, Ward, and Bonny. Barttelot has sent
three Zanzibaris in a canoe up to the Arab camp to find
out who they are. We are now fairly cut off from
the world. We have almost given up hope of Tippu-
Tib's men, and are already talking about how vre shall
employ our time until November. The Stanley left at
6 A.M. for Leopoldville.

August l^th. — The Zanzibaris returned with ten of
the Arabs, who really are Tippu-Tib's men. Their head
chief and two others came into the house, shook hands,
and had a long palaver with Major Barttelot and myself.
It appears that they were sent from the Falls by Tippu-
Tib to collect men, but, as far as we know of their pro-
ceedings, it looks far more like collecting slaves and
ivory. They said that 700 men had started under
vSlicik Rachid to come to us, but that upon arriving at
a camp on Mr. Stanley's road, where he had left some
mark, they had concluded that the whole Expedition
had gone on, and had returned, now being encamped
on some river between this and the Falls. This Sheik's
name is Abdullah Coroni. pnd he offered either to
send a letter to Tippu-Tib for us, or to escort one of
us to the Falls, four days from here. After thinking it

August 16.
Yainbuya.

i:!V|

II! /■

?Si'Jr:ll!ft|

' 1 \u ■■!

0§

.:f'.

■i

114

SrORY OF ThE BEAR COLUMN.

1887.
August 18.

Yambuya.

1,1 i

well over, and speaking to all of us about it, Major
Barttelot has decided to send two of us, and ^oi iln.
Sheik's promise to return in two days with twenty men to
escort us. This, of course, will be our only chance of
getting the men now, for, if we did not go for the men.
the chances are that they would be scattered all over
the country, and we should never see them. I am more
than glad that Barttelot has decided upon sending me,
and Ward to accompany me as a witness of the inter-
view with Tippu-Tib. The tram]i will be througli n
piece of unknown country, and full of interest.

While the Arabs were talking witli us, I could not
make out where I had seen one of them before, as I
seemed to know his face, when it suddenly dawned
upon me that he bore a wonderful resemblance to
Florence St. John, the actress. I never saw a more
remarkable likeness, and Ward, to whom I mentioned
it, saw it at once.

Before leaving, Slieik Abdullah promised not to
molest any of the natives near us.

August IWi. — The men worked at the mess-honse,
and brought in fire-wood, and cleaned up the camp, a
daily duty which we look upon as the most important
one of all. In the afternoon Bonny went over, with the
chief, to the village on the other side. He says tliat on
his aiTival the people wero tremendously excited and
pleased at a white man coming over. The men in his
canoe made a circle with the poles they use for poUni;
up che rapids, to keep the crowd back, for the natives
were even up in all the trees. They made such a noise
that he could not hear the chiefs speak, but when he rose
and put up his hand, they were all silent at once. He
then waved his hand, and they all sat down. He first
asked them if they were not glad that the white men
had prevented their being killed by the Arabs, to wliieli
they all sliouted an assent. They then brought a lot
of leaves from the roof of one of the huts, closely rolled
together, and made Bonny hold one end, while an old
chief held the other ; they next gave him a knife and

■i--. ','li ifMIni

DlAliV.

115

told him to cut the leaves in two, after which the chief
cut them, when they were dipped in water, vith which
the bystanders were sprinkled. All the pe()])le then

are at peace

1S87.
Aupiist 19.

Yanibuya.

1: y

shouted, " We are at peace ! We
Bonny told them that we wanted ^oats and fowls,
not as presents, but tliat we would pay for them.
They said that Tippu-Tib's people had taken all their
sjoats, but that they had a village inland where they
kept all their fowls, and they would briufj; them. The
natives made him a present of six fowls, one man
actually bringing a little chicken with no feathers on,
saying it was all he had. Bonny gave the chief a piece
of handkerchief.

I received my letter of instructions from Major
Barttelot, and to-morrow I hope to start for the Falls.

August 20th. — The Arabs never turned up all day,
much to our disgust. Just as I came out of my bath
to-night, a large centipede nearly walked right over my
foot ; this is only one of the many insects of every
abominable species that infest my house.

August 21st. — My birthday *, which reminds me that
I have spent two others in South Africa, and two in
America, all under canvas, for although this is a ^^■ooden
luit with a grass roof, a tarpaulin covers the whole.
Some of the Arabs have arrived, the rest come to-
moiTow, under the chief Abdullah, and on the following
(lay we begin our march, thank goodness ! They say it
will take at least six days, and at an ordinary pace
nine. They brought with them two little dots of
children, the eldest, I should say, not more than five
years old, and a small dog, all proceeds, I suppose, of
their late raid on the natives.

On the strength of its being my birthday, we ojiened
a tin of sardines, and feasted off them with some rice.

There was great grumbling among the men because
their matakas are still stopped, as they have not given

* This is a mistake ; his birthday was on the 17th August. \\w very
date upon which he died at Bangala, in the I'ullowirig year, 1888. — Ed.

I 2

ti it ^!'

!•]

l£

|i0fe

\\\'^:

116

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
August 21

Yambuya.

up the man who stole the axe. Deputations hoth from
the Soudanese and Zanzibaris waited on us, and at last
the Major told them that as they could not find out the
man who stole it, and as Abdullah was really the cause
of its beinf]f stolen, if by to-morrow morning they had
all come to the conclusion that he oupjht to be punished,
we would give him fifty lashes, and give them their
matakas.

August 22nd. — It was decided by all the men that
Abdullah should be flogged, and so he was. From the
quiet way in which he received it, I begin to think that
he stole the axe himself, or lost it. After lunch, .Sheik
Abdullah arrived with the rest of the Arabs, about thirty
men in all, including those in camp, and a number of
native slaves (armed with splendid spears), who are their
carriers. Sheik Abdullah brought his wife with him,
and a very fine fowl, which he gave to Major Barttelot.
They say there is not the least doubt that we shall cjet
the men from Tippu-Tib. The natives with them are
the most horrible-looking lot I have ever seen, beauti-
fully tattooed with cuts from a knife, and with their
upper and lower lips cut into fringes, and their teeth
filed into points.

August 23rrf. — Started for the Falls at 7 o'clock.
For the first two hours our road lay parallel to the
river, then struck off through the forest. The general
direction was S.S.W., sometimes due S. A stru<?gle
took place on the way between some of Tippu-Tib's men
and the natives from near Yalisula, which was rather
exciting while it lasted. At one time we heard a
tremendous noise ahead, and found all hands hunting
like hounds in a swamp, and they at length returned
with an old man, a woman, and a child, whom they
made captives, but Sheik Abdullah made them release
them. Had we not been there, little chance would they
have had of escape, as the Arabs would have kept the
woman and child until they were ransomed with ivory
by the husband. It was pitiable to see the old man
following his wife and child, although the Arabs did

liiiJAi-.-'iniii^H'i

DIARY.

not want him. It is wonderful what they will pay to
get back their women. Tippu-Tib's men's faces of
disgust showed plainly that this was not their ordinary
treatment. The natives buy ivory with large pieces of
iron shaped like a spear-head, and about six feet long,
of which ten will buy a good tusk, and should they
liavo no ivory they pay the Arabs for their women in
these iron pieces. For the first part of our road we had
to walk like tight-rope dancers along immense fallen
trees, wade numerous swamps and small rivers, after
which the path lay through splendid open forest, w4th
very fine timber in it.

August 2ith. — Started at 6 o'clock. The road was
hilly, and led through the same forest. At one vil-
lage the natives said we were the first white men they

1P87.
AiiKust 23.

March to
Stnnley
FaUs.

li:

iMm^

CL.U,Au,^

c^.

Y^ujf?k

had ever seen, and that they must make us princes, but
they did not do more than produce a pot of malafu.

I-

if!!-'

il|iii

J,.' I : ,]

118

STOHr OF THE liKAli COLUMN.

1887.
August 24.

March to

Stanley

Falls.

\ I'. ,
i.iiili

1 i;

The ceremony is thoroforo much simpler than in oar
country. Fancy tlio h\\r potentates at home sitting'
down round a pot of beer to make two new princes I
Eight or nine Arabs then arrived, some of them jj^roat
men, in the most spotless turbans, of whom Bartho-
lomew told us that they had hidden all their slavos
in the bush, being afraid we would come to their
village, wliich I quite believe, for when I asked tlieni
where it was they said " Very far, too far to go to," yet
they had just left it!

Aitf/ust 25f/'. — The guides turned up about 6 a.m..
and we liegrn one of the worst marches I have had for
a long time. At first the road lay through groves of
plantain? and small villages, until about one o'clock.
when we entered a large cane-brake intermixed with
prickly palms and creepers, and of all the roads I ever
travelled this was the worst. At one moment you ^vcre
caught by the threat and your helmet knocked off ; (hen,
having struggled o'lt of that fix, you were next tripped
up by a creeper, and fell on your nose. We met s()ni(>
of Tippu-Tib's people coming from Singatini, who told
us that Tippu-Tib was going off to see Sheik Rachid at
the Lumami River in two or three days, so we pushed on.
doing, I should think, very little short of twenty miles.
The natives of the last village we passed said that as
we were the first white men they had ever seen they
must make us a present, and they started off to get us a
small dog to eat, which they consider a great delicacy,
but we had not time to wait for it. About a hundred
yards from our camping-ground we had to wade waist
deep through a river, and as the man with my bag did
not turn up until long after dark, I had rather a bad
time of it. Our road lay S.E. nearly all day. We had
nothinor to eat since morning but some mouldv biscuits.
and dir ed off the remnant;i of the cold rice and fowl of
yesterday.

Auf/ud 26th. — Started at 6 a.m., and cur road lay for
some hours through a beautiful open forest, then down
a steep hill, and along the bed of a river for nearly a

',jU'.,^4«««ffl'«'*'*«"

e»-»fa . i I I a i jwiiuxjrf 1 1.11ft T- m

DIARY.

119

iTiilo. As our caravan slowly wound its way up the
silvery bed of the stream, f^leams of lipjht fell here and
there, piercing the shadows of the tropical forest.

At last, after many steep hills, and havinji; crossed
one very broad river in a canoe, wc suddenly came upon
ii full view of the Congo, and descended into a large
village called Yalisula, where wc changed our wet
clothes, got into canoes, and went on to Yawami, a
village higher up the river on the left bank. Here we
slept in a whitewashed mud house belonging to the Arabs.
At both villages we were objects of the greatest
curiosity, especially while changing our things, when
there was perfect quiet amongst the two or three
hundred onlookers. The Arabs treated us very kindly,
making us presents of rice and fish. We marched
fifteen miles, and came about two miles in the canoes,
our road again lying S.E.

" l^'HuHflllWll

iSfiT.
Aufjiist 2fl.

Congo
River.

Augvst 27th. — Started at 6 o'clock in canoes, and
after two hours reached Yadzembi, where we changed
ranoes ; in each village the Arabs sent us on with their
own natives to the next. Those who accompanied us
from this place were great swells, wearing brass and
iron wire right up to their elbows ; and their hair was
dyed bright red with cam-wood. At two o'clock we
reached a large village on the right-hand bank named
latuka, at which there was a market going on. Sheik
Abdullah's village is about an hour from here, up a
small river, and he very much wished us to stay at
Yatuka for the night, but I insisted on going on at
once. Opposite this place lies Yarracombi, another of
Tippu-Tib's villages. After we had started, a terrific
thunderstorm came on, half filling the canoe with water.
We went on after dark for a couple of hours, finally
reachiiig Tatiacusu, where we stayed for the night.
The Arabs gave us a fowl, two eggs, and a lot of rice.
Unfortunately I had had nothing to eat all day but some
raw chiquanga, with a drink of malafu, and I was so sick
that I could eat nothing when we did get food. I
must here say a word for our wate^ proof bags. Mine had

".ii^

120

STORY OF Till': REAR COLUMN.

^^^7. boon lyiiip; all the evcninj^ in a ^ood half-foot of water

Tutiii- ^vith nic sitting on tht; top oi it, and yet not a tliiiiir

ouHu. inside it was wet. Ward's things, which were all in a

waterproof sheet, were soaked tlirongh. AN'e slept in

the verandah of tlie Arabs' house, snrronnded by the

usual crowd of inquisitive natives.

Aiujiist 2Sth. — Left Tatiaeusu at 5.."0, and, nftci
about three hours in tlic canoes, reached Atiacusu, wlicic
we saw no Arabs, but an immense number of natives.
Here we had to change canoes. Tliere was rather a row
about poles and men for our canoe, which at one tiiiio
threatened to be serious, but it ended in a sloggimr
matcli with sticks and logs of wood. I was gr(>atlv
amused with Abdullah, who rushed back to our caiioo,
and seized my big revolver, and was going to shoot a
native with it, with the leather cover on.

About two hours before coming to the Falls, wo
passed the mouth of the river AVamanga, and further
on that of the Cho))o lliver, both on the left bank.
We arrived at the Falls about 5 o'clock. Tippu-Tih
himself came down to meet us, and conducted us to
his reception house, where his brother and all his
officers were assembled. He gave us some delicious
fried plantains, tea, and coffee, and made Sheik Abd-
ullah tell him all about our journey, camp, &c. I tlieii
told him I had a letter for him from Major Barttelot,
which I would present after we had changed our wet
clothes. AVe went to the house he had placed at our
disposal, where a man presently brought us some
excellently cooked fowl and rice. AVe then went down,
with Bartholomew as intei'iireter, to present the letter,
and I told Tippu-Tib that anything in it that he could
not understand I would explain, as I held a translation
in English. I used BartholomeAv as interpreter, but
Tippu replied to me each time through Salem, nuikiiii,'
him ask me any questions he had to put. I tlien gave
him the revolver from Barttelot, and a knife from
myself. He thanked me for them, and explaiued
the reason for the men promised to us not haviuij

!,jii II HI 1*1 #1

';'

tiiiic

I i'.

,.p.i(.h(.(l our (

ri|)i»u-'rii) ii

uitli the iiK
were fifty),
^vlli(•ll "»»»«t
sent os'OY so
tho (>)»|»'>sito
all rail awiiy
tiikcii fowls a

(iUKU'S, thiiii

hush, nisho(
tlirin u}) and
attacked the
morniii}:;.

Hy this ti
oithor sick w
had to rvtwn
canip woidd
up the Annv
find the cam
could not fi
Ahdnllah, w
found it, or I
who brought
iihout our ca
then promise
as many mer
now being tl
them for oui
rest, lie as
with the me
white office
arrived. I i
should do,
start at all v
would be,
promised tc
sure if he si
now scattei
conference.

■tdiikL

DiAiir,

123

iparlicfl our (tainp. Tliry startocl from tlio Tails with
ri|)|»ii-ril) himself, 500 men for Mr. Stanley, and
with the men paddlinj^; the canoes (of whicii there
were fifty), 1,500 in all. Arrivinjj; at a small villaije,
whicli must he within half a day of our cam)), tliey
sent over some men to a lar«j:e villaj^e which lay on
rho opposite hank of the river, to ^et food. The natives
;ill ran away at their approach ; hut they had no sooner
taken fowls and plantains, and werc^ returning; to their
canoes, than the natives, who had heen hidden in the
l)iisli, rushed down and killed four of them, cuttini^
them up and dividinjj; the meat on the spot. 'ri])])u-'rih
attacked the village that evenin<j:, and hurned it next
moruiufj;.

By this time all the paddlers in the canoes were
oitlicr sick with fever, or their hands were sore, so they
had to return. He says Mr. Stanley had told him the
camp would he at Hasoko, or near it, at least not so far
up the Aruwimi. He then sent 200 men to try and
find the camp overland, hut they returned, sayinjjj they
(oiild not find it. He afi;ain sent 200 men under
Abdullah, with orders not to return until they had
found it, or Mr. Stanley's road. This is the Abdullah
who bronp;ht us to the Falls, but he must have known
about our camp long before we sent up to him. Tippu
then promised to send out to-morrow morning to collect
as many men as he could, and that after three days, it
now being their Christmas, he would start himself with
them for our camp, leaving his brother to send on the
rest. He asked me if we should start after Mr. Stanley
with the men he brought with him, leaving some of the
white officers to bring on *he remainder when they
arrived. I told him I had no authority to say what we
should do, but that I thought the Major would not
start at all until he knew definitely how many men tluro
would be, or until they were all there. He again
promised to start in three days, but said he was not
sure if he should be able to give 100 men, as they were
now scattered all over the country. This ended the
ronfercnce.

iftflT.

Aii^tiit 28.

Htnulfjr
Falli.

r 1

1 .1

1 1

1887.
August 29.

Stanley
FaUs.

F' !

124

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

Avgiist 29#/i. — Was awakened by a boy biiiiginor ij^ ^
most delicious breakfast of vermicelli and plantain^;
fried in jj;hee, followed by a chicken and rice. Aftoi
breakfast Tippu-Tib sent to say he would like to sliou
his brother my Winchester and revolver, so I took tliein
down to the reception house. After everyone had
examined them, I told Tippu-Tib that, u])on reHectiijn,
I thought it might be better for him to stay here a tnv
days longer than the three days he proposed, in order
that he might collect more men, and gain a definite
idea of how many men he would be able to give us,
He seemed rather annoyed at this, and explained that
his reason for wishing to start in three days is that the
majority of the men are in villages below the Tails,
and that by thus going down himself he ^^ill have far
less difficulty in collecting them. This sounded reascjii-
able, so I let well alone, and said nothing more. I
shall now start with him, and when we leave the canoos
shall send Wartl ahead as fast as possible witli a
letter to the Major. After this there was a regular
reception of about twenty Arab Sheiks, who had coino
to breakfast, and then Tippu asked us if we would
like to go round the station. W"e all crossed the river
to the old Free State Station below the Falls, and
examined the Krupp guns, and found they still have
the breech blocks, which were not destroyed as stated
by Mr. ]Jeane. Then large canoes were summoned
to take us to the island above the Falls. Here we
witnessed a great Avrestling match between t^^•o pieked
men, one from the village we had left, the otlier
from ihe island village, which was a very grand affair.
In the centre of the main street a space had been
cleared, and at one end were all the chiefs, athl(>tes,
and girls of one village, with their chainpioji, and
opposite them stood the rival party. The two cluun-
pions were splendid-looking men, covered over with
different coloured clays, these being their distinguisliin<f
colours. The girls all wore a small piece of cloth in
front, and a long tail of black palm-fibre, which waved
about as they danced. Those belonging to the one

DIARF.

125

villafije bocfan the ceremony by dancing, clapping their ^^"^-^
haiuis, and singing a wild chant, taunting the o])posite g^',^[" *
party with being afraid of their champion, upon which the Fails.

others went through the same performance. Finally the
champions came forward, and after many attempts at
•rotting fair grips they closed, and after a short wrestle,
ill which neither got a fall, they parted amidst tremendous
uproar. All the girls of both parties then danced up and
down the centre. Before the men began to wrestle, old
women came and spat on them and jeered at them, evi-
dently for the purpose of arousing their courage. There
was also great running up and doAvn of magnificently
attired chiefs, with small brooms in their hands, to clear
the arena. The wrestlers came out again, but this time
there were so many disputes about the grips that finally
the party from the mainland led off their man altogether.
These disputes often end in blows, and sometimes in
bloodshed. We then rejoined Tippu-Tib, and crossed
to the other island above the Falls, to see a tree which
was considered a great marvel. It had lain on the
ii;iound for a long time, and quantities of fire-wood had
been chopped off it, notwithstanding which it iiad
suddenly sprung upright again. Tliis was easily ex-
})lained, for the roots had never been cut, and after
some of the stem and many of the branches had been

-n.m .:

IrH-

liiiiil'-i-

„<■

126

ISTOnr OF THE lilCAR COLUMN,

1887
August

Stanley
Falls.

29.

removed, they were sufficiently strong to raise it up
again. The vi«\v of the Falls is greatly spoilt by
the enormous poles which are placed across them
holding large baskets Siwinging in the water to
catch fish. The Arabs are wonderful civilizcrs ; thev
grow quantities of rice, sweet potatoes, onions, giuiva
trees, mangoes, paw-paws, and pomegranates. A black-
smith's shop is one of the sights here. One very j^oorl
law made by them to encourage trade is, tliat no nativi's
living near the water are allowed to cut fire-wood, and
no natives from inland are allowed to catch fisli, thus
the dwellers by the river buy their fire- wood with fish.
Two of the big chiefs here speak Swahili.

^11

i;!

August o^th. — After breakfast wo took our sketchiim-
things and went down to see Tippu-Tib. He gave us
a boy and Salem to take us all about the place. We
crossed to the old Station below the Falls, where we
were met by Sheik Selim Mahoinmed, Tippu-Tib's
nepliew, one of the nicest of all the Arabs, a gentleman
every inch, down to the soles of his feet. We went on
to lunch with old Sheik Nasoro, a very courtly ohl
gentleman. From his house we could see the natives
coming down to the edge of the Falls, some holding on
to the poles, whilst others mounted them, and dragged
up the large baskets offish. After saying good evening;
to Tippu-Tib, we sat on the rocks by the river, and,
smoking our pipes, watched the setting sun. I can
easily understand anyone getting quite fond of tliis
place. There is a mixture of wildness and quiet
about it which is really charming. Whilst resting at
Sheik Mahommed bin Said's house, an Arab brouglit
in seven or eiijht small tirs of Crosse and Blackwell's

^iebig, a large tin of lard, and a ripe paw-paw,
excellent fruit, which I had not eaten before. He
asked what was in tlie tins, and, to our great amusement,
told us they had been in the habit of using it for sores on
the legs. He gave us all the Liebig, but took away the
lard in disgust upon liearing it was hogs' fiit. Histow

does not relate from whom he had

got

all this, and

jMMMHMtlM

niAur.

127

the small packet of lettuce seed which he also showed
us ; I feel sure they were stores taken when the old
Station was captured from Deane. I am trying to get
one man to buy all the fowls we want, and settle with
him.

August 3l5i^. — The laziest day I have spent since
joining the Expedition ! It was the Mahommedan
Christmas, and we did nothing but eat all day. All
the Arabs were in Sunday best, and looked very hand-
some in tlieir long black embroidered cloaks over
snowy white linen. One Sheik had on a buff-coloured
robe, embroidered with gold and silver. Tip^xi-Tib's
iiepliew, a handsome little Arab, paid me a visit, and
he was delighted by my giving him my Egyptian
tobacco-box. His fatlier is Tippu's philanthropist
brother, a tall, light-coloured Arab with a long beard,
the most benevolent and pious-looking old gentleman.
AVe were informed that he is very religious, and miglit
be rich, but that he gives aAvay nearly all his ivory to

1887.
August 30l

Stanley
FallB.

^^^HKi 1

^^^nn'j

iH^^^^^^^^H

^Ht

^Ht;^:

■1 . ' f

.1 -

W^' '

'f %

(

1 !

^^B !!iWr

(1:

t ■ ',
i 1

1
j i

X).:.;U„ :.

»<iiJ.;

Jii;

128

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
August 31.

Stanley
Falls.

!:i

V.\\

very poor Arabs. Thi,? is very difFercnt from the opinion
I first had of him ! Late in the evening Tippu-Tlh
sent word that he coukl not start until the day after
to-morrow, as the natives have refused to lend their
canoes, or to paddle others, saying they believed wt
were going up the Aruwimi again. This makes me
believe the story of their refusing to go higher up with
Tippu-Tib before. We were honoured by a visit from
four or five of Tippu-Tib's Lights of the Harem, wlio
are not his real wives, as those are never seen by any
one. The Arabs and natives here appear to live in the
most perfect harmony. You will meet an x'Vrab s"'«;iin(T
along hand in hand Avith one of the native chiefs, and
if a canoe is wanted, it is ready in a moment, the chiefs
themselves paddling it. All day long we were visited
by people who either wanted presents, as it was Christ-
mas, or had something to sell, until it got so bad that
we had to close our doors. With the exception of a
few guns being fired off, and a great quantity of food
being eaten, there did not appear to be much rejoicing,
and they all wished they were at Zanzibar, Avliere
Christmas could be kept in a proper fashion.

September 1st. — Had a most enjoyable day, and, I am
sorry to say, the last here. After breakfast Salem came
to say that the natives of the island village were going
to have another day's wrestling, so we started at once, and
whilst waiting for a canoe at Sheik Nasoro's house, saw
the old gentleman cupped on the legs for rheumatism.
The Arabs put up an awning for us to see the sports ;
the wrestling was much better than the last, and I saw
one really good fall. Both Ward and I got some
sketches. Salem informed me that it is almost im-
possible to get any fowls, as the people will not sell
them on trust. I am going to try to make them bring
some anyhow, We had enough matakas to buy a
dozen, but they were all stolen. This morning I
wanted one or two to make a present to a girl who
brought back one of my tortoises which had strayed.
Upon asking Bartholomew for them, he at first prc-

J««MMMtlMMipiw

DIARY,

129

tondod not to iinderstaiid, and then conld not answer
^[ all. He confessed to havin^i; received seventy, and
upon adding np all that had heen s])ent, I fonnd tliat
it was only thirteen, so that he ninst liave stolen fifty-
sovcn. Wlien I accnsed liim, lie did not even deny it.
This is one of those beautiful boys brought up at
a Mission, and I must say tliat I have always found
them beat any savage at lying and tliieving ! This

Msa for

man had been most energetic in
stealing Munichandi's knife and Koran.

reviling

September 2nd. — Went down before lunr^h to thank
Tippu-Tib for his kindness to us. I told him I was
<(()iiig to make him a present of my big riHe, which
pleased him greatly. lie gave us two sheep, three
fouls, two large baskets of sweet potatoes, and a bag of
rice. He also wrote a letter which he gave me, telling
everyone that I had been his guest, and tliat they were
to look after me. He intends to start to-morrow, and
if the canoes arrive from Kassongo, he will bring goats
and rice. He gave us some of the most delicious coffee
I have ever tasted, which grows wild at Kassongo.
After lunch we started, Tip])u-Tib and all his followers
coming to see us oft'. Five cargoes in all. Selim
Mahommed and Salem went with us. "We found upon
examination that a piece of cloth had been stolen, so I
asked Tippu-Tib to put Bartholomew and Msa in
chains, as I felt sure they would attempt to escape.
They had, I afterwards discovered, told Tippu-Tib they
meant to run awav, but he declined to connive at
their escape, so the two gentlemen are now in irons.
Salem told us that Taboro, the chief of the Manyema,
had refused to allow his men to carry Tippu-Tib's goods,
either to the Falls or to Zanzibar, so that he now has to
send his own men all the way, which makes it doubly
difficult for him to give us men. Salem also told us
that he now owns thirty men with guns, but lie means
soon to have 150. We asked hiin if he had the money
to pay for them, upon which he said, " Oh ! that is
simple enough. I have a razor and some white cloth.
I go down to either Kassongo or jNlanyema, take hold

1887.
Sept. 1.

Staiilpj
FiUhi.

■jpP

130

STORY OF THE BEAR COLUM^Y.

1887.
Sept. 2.

Stanley
Falls.

■i;!-i^'!•

of a man and shave his head, put a gun into liis Imnds,
and give him enough clotli to make hi*m decent, and hp
becomes my follower." lie says they never start on
any journey without consulting the Koran to see if the
day and hour are lucky. If they did not do this, ho
says, they Avould certainly all go to Jehannum Ac.
cording to him, no one owns anything but Ti])pu-Tih,
and they all covet whatever he has. 'i'hey all wanted tlie
knife I gave him, and would steal it if tliey dared. Tippu.
Tib's brother will succeed him as chief, and afterwards
Sefo, his son. We suggested that his brother was too
peaceful a man to be chief of the Arabs, but he rojdicd,
*' Oh ! Sefo and Rachid will do quite enough figlitiii^,'
He also told us that Tippu-Tib had made an agrcomoiit
to settle up the whole country as ftxr as Bangala, and to
establish stations ; this means that he will fight every
tribe in succession, and then put his Arabs in.

September 3r<?. — Left Tatiacusu at six, and only
went as far as Yatuka. Here we stopped all day to buy
food for the men, and pick up Abdullah and his men.
I to-day saw the most horrible sight, a woman was nursin<j;
a child not bigger than a three or four-year old boy, but
whose head might have belonged to a grown-up person,
while its body was an absolute skeleton, every bone (even
the very smallest) being visible,and covered only by loose
skin. Tippu-Tib show^s what a gentleman he really is.
in his thoughtfulness for others. He noticed that Ward
had no umbrella, and at once insisted on giving him
one of his own ; and, as our two men were in chains,
he sent his wife's boy, Farani, who speaks a Httle
English, to look after us on the road.

September 4:th. — Bartholomew and Msa broke their
irons and escaped during the night. Selim bin Mahom-
med assured me that they would be caught, and that
we had better go on, as they would have to come into
the villages for food, and would not do so until vc
were gone. I found out, on arriving at the next camp,
that Bartholomew had stolen altogether 57 matakas,
one piece of cloth, one axe, one knife, one plate, a pair

DIARY.

131

of scissors, and a table-napkin. Solim and Farani
informed mc that they knew him well. He had been
^(-naiit to a (ierman on the coast near Zanzibar;
he tliere stole two bales of cloth, a lot of clothes, and
whatever he could lay hands on, and then set fire to
the place. He enlisted with Mr. Stanley because he
\vas running away from the people who were after
him at Zanzibar. The German had offered Selim and
Tippu-Tib £3 for his recovery. Reached Yalisuli
at midday, frightfully hungry, as we had no time for
hicakfiist before starting, and no amount of " cussing "
would make the Arabs paddle a bit quicker ; they
simply floated with the current, or we should have
arrived a good three hours sooner. I was so hungry
that on arrival I devoured mouldy, weevily, maggoty
biscuits, rancid butter, and Liebig, with avidity. It
was one of the most curious luncheons I have ever
eaten. I made arrangements with Selim Mahommed
for Ward to start back to camp to-morrow, and deter-
mined to wait here myself another day to see if the two
culprits would turn up. I had some difficulty in getting
men for Ward, as, although we had hired Abdullah's
men at our camp to go to the Falls and back for a
certain price, Selim said they were not Abdullah's men,
but Tippu-Tib's, and Tippu-Tib had given orders that
we were to be sent back to our camp without any
expense. I at last succeeded in making Selim under-
stand that we had entered into a contract wdth the men,
and that, according to our views, payment was due to
them.

September 6th. — The market in the evening was
mteresting. About 4 o'clock a drum is beaten to
collect the natives from the villages near, when each
party of villagers takes up a separate position on the
ground, bringing with them all they have to sell.
Those from inland supply plantains and manioc, both
roots and tops, the green leaves of which are tied up in
plantain leaves as neatly as though they were to go to
Covent Garden market. The salt which they sell they

18S7.
Sept. 4.

Yatuka

ui"'

te:

M<l; i

k i,

' ■ '.1 •?

i 1

i I

IliMl
pi-'

1887.
Sept. n.

Yalisula.

132

STOliY OP THE liEAU COLUMN.

obtain by buinirijjj grass and plantain hnsks and stoms-
they also bring firr-wood and tishing-ncts. The ii!Ui\(s
from the shores bring iish and pottery. Once all jn,,
assembled at the sound of the drum, a tn^meiuloiis
trade begins, accompanied by an uproar very mucli akin
to that proceeding from the betting-ring at the Doiln
No form of money is u >ed ; the articles are exchiiriirf'l
for one anr'ner. * nought two ivory pestles for
p(jundl''t; maiU!-:. Neither of our escaped thiovcs
lias turned rn i v ' (., so we are obliged to stay aiiothci
day, although tin;-, is .* horrible spot; I can only (ret
rice and plantains to eat. but endeavour to discover a
new flavour in eacl' at evory meal.

September i)th. — No signs of Bartholomew, so we start
for camp to-morrow. At the Falls, and Avherever the
Arabs trade on the river, the only form of money used.
except the large pieces of iron for buying ivory, is siimll
iron axe-heads. Kassongo must be a wonderfully rich
place, for according to the Arabs everything, iron,
copper, rice, goats, salt, coffee, chickens, &c., comes
from tnere.

Scpfemher Ifh. — Started at 8 a.m., and marched
steadily, with one small break, until 5 r.M. I find that
Selim Mahommed's band accompanies him on laud as
well as water. It consists of three Kassongo drums,
played by men, and three hand-rattles, played l)v
women; and they all sing, or rather wail and «i;ruiit.
We took a different road to the Falls from that which we
had followed before. I told the Arabs it was far too
much to the east, but they maintained that it was
shorter. It lay nearly due north of Yalisula. The
small rivers were so high that we had to wade tliem
up to our arm-pits, w^liich made the walking very
unpleasant.

September St/i. — Grot under way at 6 o'cloclv, and
reached a very large village held by Tippu-Tib's people,
called Sugurru, at about 4 p.m. This village was abor.t
twenty miles out of our course. I told the Arabs that

DIARY.

the road was all wronpf, jis I could soo by my comjjass,
l)iit llu'v itorsistcd in Ix^lioviiit; tlio nativc^s. ^^'(' wcro
;it one ric (;()ni])lotoly lost, but luckily (•}iu<^lit two
\v()HH"i, \ in) brou«^lit ns to Suj^nirni. Phks(mI an innnonso
luiinbcr >f nu)nk('\s, and 1 sbot on': for tlie natives,
who 11 V tbe skin for helmets, and consider the
ri(:!i ^^ ij;i'oat delicacy There were numerous fresh
elephant-tracks ; ihe whole bush was in some places
trodden down by them. It was positively dangerous
work walking fast in the forest, for the natives have

1H«7.
Sept. A.

Siigurriu

'( 1

large poisoned spears tied to immense logs of timber,
suspended between trees over the elephant-path, and
across which tliey place a light rope attaclu d to a
trigger, so that the moment the rope is touched by an
elephant, down comes the spear into his back. Two or
three times I very nearly walked under one. We
escaped this danger to run into a worse, for the Arabs
at the next village all but fired at ns, thinking we were
enemies. Crossed a great nnmber of rivers and
swainps. ^^'as w^et throngli all day.

September dth. — One of the most disagreeable days I

IM,!,u;'f."'V

1887.
Sept. U.

Siigupni

ti>
Ynnibaii.

1?,4

srnnr of the heati coLrMy.

liiivo over spcMit. Started at (5 A..Nr., and could nrof nn
natives to carry the sliee|). Our road lay throu^ii the
most horril)le country, for more than an hour down tlic
bed of a small river, which was dammed uj) in j)lii((.s.
and throui^h them one liad to flounder u]) to one's
waist and sometimes hi<»;lier. 'I'hen foUowed anothci
river, cane-])rake, and swamp. I walked aliead with
the natives, and we went for a <ijood ten hours with oiiK
one short break. We pulled up at 4.o(), a lon«jj way fiom
Yambau (which should have been our camp), in a villaiic
where not a drop of water was to be had for love or
money. I had nothin<ij to eat all day but a few ])laiitaiiis
before startin<?, and a little cold rice cooked yc^sterduv,
before I turned in for the nijrht; so that, after ten
hours' hard work, I went to bed more hungry and tliiistv
than I think I ever have been before. Had Sclim
Mahommed not been so iar ))eliind, I should have
walked on, as I am sure we should have reached
Yambau, or at least water, before dark ; but as it was
the Arabs were evidently annoyed with me for havin<i;
come so far.

i'!i;i

I \ I
;!'i!

Sejjtemher 10th. — Owing to heavy rain we did not
start till G.oO. Went nearly due north until we struck
our old road to the Falls, which I recognized at oiico.
The native guides were so troublesome, st()])])ing fre-
quently, that at last I went ahead with my boy. and
soon struck the village, where Ward and I had slept
before, and there I got an Arab to take us into \'ainhau.
One of the Arabs brought me a magnificent ivory horn,
which, when standing on the ground, came up to my
chin ; but he would take nothing but a revolver for it.
so I could not buy it. I wronged the Arabs wlicn I
was last near here, by saying that I thought tliey lio(l
when they declared their town to be a long way from
where AVard and I 8le})t. The road is a bad one, with
two nastv rivers to wade, and it takes about an hour.
I succeeded in getting a very small fowl here, which I
deTOured (body and bones), for I had nothing for break-
fast but a cup of malafu and a few plantains.

(if

■ 1 :,
: ■ . r 1 ■;

Nvriit steadily
liM-r. on the
,l,.j)t oiir first
who fsciiped
l),.,.ii rccinvcM
„„ist 1)0 caro
„ut alter ther

Sepfnnher
About three 1
luul huflalo-tr
others all ii
march a<i;aiii.

Siptemhcr
have been \iS
so the Major
He caiijjfht ei
lansonied ioi
and a lot ol
camp on the

It is a vc
some crime i
some row ain
stolen axe c
stealin<i; and
(lauese inipli
had made im
for a theft w

Scpfeniher
had a secon
(laiiese wlio
always been
wished ther
tliieves. 'V\
side the bon
Tlie pris(niei
tlie axe rect
connived at

DfAIi}'.

lo5

Srfttnuhc}' Wfh. — riot auiiy bofnro o'clock, iind J''^^;,
\v('iit steadily on until 1 o'clock, wlicn we re ichcd the Va',„j,„„
liscr, on the further side of which NNard and I had ic
,I,>|)t our first ni<,dit out. News came tliat the two men ^""'^"J"
who escaped had not heen caj)tuie(l, hut a letter had
been received from 'ri])i)U-'l'ii) tellini^ the Aral)s they
must l)e careful, and ii numlier of men had heen sent
(,iit after them.

Septcmher \1fh. — "Reached Yamhnya at 12 o'clock.
Al)()ut three hours from cam]) came across fresh ele]>hant
and haffalo-tracks. Found poor AN'ard v(>ry seedy, 'i'he
otlievs all in good health, and eager to get on tlio
niiirch again.

Septcmher lo///. — Dunng my ahsencc tlie natives
have heen giving trouhle, and l)ronght nothing to sell,
so tlic ^laior sent Bonnv to catch some of their women.
]\v caught eight women and a hahy. Two have heeu
iinisomed for a gun which they had stolen, lo fowls,
;ui(l a lot of fish. Selim Mahonmied has fon\ied a
camp on the rising ground hehind our camp.

It is a verv true saving that ^^hen thieves fall out
some crime is sure to come to light. To-day, through
some row amtmg the Soudanese, the whole story of the
stolen axe came out. It a])])ears that, between the
stealing and selling of it, there were five of the Sou-
danese implicated in it ! They were the very men who
had made most fuss about their matakas being stopped
for a theft which they said they had not committed.

Scjifeniher lith. — "his morning, after breakfast, we
Iiad a second parade for the punishment of the Sou-
(huiese who stole the axe. 'i'he Zanzibaris having
always been blamed for the theft. Major Harttelot
wished them to witness the punishment of the real
thie\es. The two com])anies of /an/ibaris fell in out-
side the boma, and the Soudanese fell in between them.
The prisoners were then led out, and the two who stole
the axe received 100 lashes each, and those who had
connived at the theft received 75 each. The men

: I

Ill

136

^TOliY OF THE HEAR COLUMN.

l)eiii<r so lev

S;;m:m iun Maiium.mi;!).

1«87.

Sept. 14.
Yanibuya.

were then warned tliiit any one of tliem losing an nxo
or a gun would receive i\w, same punisliinent. ^\ ind
still very seedy, but decidedly iiii])roviiig, 1 think. The
natives brouglit us a sj)len(lid fish to-day, exactly like an
English chub, and weighing about 12 ll)s. ; tin; brst
fish I liave tastcul on the Congo. Our evenings are very
jdeasant ; we all dine together and yarn about old times
and future pros])ects.

Scpteinhcr l^)f/i. — Our men ]uit uj) a railing round the
graveyard, in which tliere are now tiftc^en graves, and I
fear, if v/e aie mucli longer here, tlu're will be a good
many more, liatlier an unj)leasant business with tlic
Arabs to-day. One of our men brouglit a huge ti>ii
into camp, when Salem came down and claimed it,

DIARY.

137

sanii^ ho had ^ivon MunichaiuU two axr-hoads and
^oiiie iiiiiiakas to buy it with. Tlie Major was iiaturallv
niiicl) annoyed abont tliis, and \m tohl Salcin tliat lie
(lid not wish tlicm to liavo anytliin<jf to do with our
iiit'ii, l)ut to kcop to tlicir own camp; if tlu^y wanted
lisli tliey couhl ])crfoctly well Iniy it for thi'insclvcs.
J)i)\vn came Selim Maliomm(>d with Sah'm, very mnch
uiiiioyed at tlie order to keej) liis m(>n to their cam]),
wishing to know if it was only on account of the fuss
about the tisli. l>artteh)t exphiined that it was not only
because of that, but because we arc very crowded, and
tliat if they used our cam]), on 'ri])})u's arrival his uhmi
would think they could do the same, and as a <^ood
iniuiv of our men wished to run awav, thev couul tlien
[)lot with his ])eople how to do so. Selim Maliommed
th(Mi f^ave back the revolver Major liarttelot had sent to
'rii»i)u-'rib, and said he had sent it back owin<>^ to there
bciiiji: so few cartrid<j^es for it, and his inability to <^et
anymore; it would therefore be quite useless to him,
but at the same time he thanked the Major for it very
much. A second interview with Selim Mahomnuul in
the afternoon ended in a perfect understanding and
a<:reement.

The natives on the o])positc side of the river were
afram attacked to-day by some Arabs, who must be
Abdullah's men. This is very unfair, as he ])romis(Hl
us to leave them in peace. The natives were filed ujjon
several times, and the whole village cleared oi't. AN'ard
still very seedy.

>Scptcmher \C)th. — One of my men died ro-day, and
two died during my absence, making eight deaths in my
(•oni])any. In the evening the Major, Tiouj), Bonny,
uid I had a game of bowls, th(^ bowls being a large
kind of fiMiit we found Ivinu: on the ground. Made
some sketches in mv diary. 1 hud 1 never iiave an idle
quarter of an hour from one week's end to anothei". iS'o
sign of 'fi])|)u-'i"ib yet. The natives are coming back to
their village.

Scpfcnnhcr HUl — Just before luncli to-diy v.e heard

1PR7.

Sf].!. 1.5.
Yainbuya

1887.
Sept. 17.

138

UTOEY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

a succession of shots across the river, mid, runniiiir out
with my glasses, I saw a most pitiable sight, A number
of natives were swimming in the water, others in
canoes trying to pick them up, wliilst the Arabs, who
had surprised them in the village, were firing into tliein
from the bank. A good many who had not tiiiio to
escape in the canoes had jumped into the water, and
hidden under the overhanging scrub. I saw the Arabs
peering down into it, and noticed one man fire, upon
which a poor native could be seen splashing about, l)nt
a second shot finished him and he sank. Three w(>ro
deliberately shot in this manner. The Arabs weic
xlbdullah's men, and he had given his word not to
molest these natives, and this is the third time he lia'<
attacked them. The Major went to Selim Mahommcd
and told him of this, and Selim promised to stop it, and
sent a canoe over to the other side, but all the Arabs
had gone. Ungungu came into camp afterwards, and
told us that nine of them had been killed ; this destroys
all our chances of getting food and trading with them
for anything. \\q told Ungungu that he could sleep
in our camp to-night, and advised him to come over to
this side close to our camp, and bring his people with
him.
the other side again

I had some sticks cut to-day, and Troup and I had a
great game of " Aunt Sally " in the evening.

Septemhcr ISfh. — Selim Mahommed sent men to
Abdullah's camp u])-river, and they returned with a
letter from him to the TSIajor apologizing for having
attacked the natives. They were^ he said, retaliating
upon thein for having killed one of his men, and
wounded another who is dving.

He said that nothing would make him stay on

September 19M. — Tlie only thing that cheers us up now
is tlie hope that Tij)pu-'J'ib may bring enough men to
ena))le us to start after Stanley. This weary waiting,
month after month, is ])erfectly sickening, and tak(>s all
the spirit and interest in the J'iXpedition clean out of it.

'. I!

DiAitr,

139

i,i? out
mber

|>'^ in
wlio

tliein
U' to
niid
Vrahs
upon
, but
Were
weiv
ot to

Scptemher 20fjL — When on my way to Barttclot's tent
this morning, Chama, the cook, informed me that tlie
two tortoises which I had brought from the Falls had
been stolen during the night. l>oth the cords which
Ihstoned them to the cook-house were cut. We at once
suspected the Soudanese soldiers, as tlie Zanzibaris will
not touch them. Barttelot sent for tlieir chief, Omra,
aud the interpreter, .Vssad Farran, and said I would
oive a reward for them, dead or alive. They presently
returned "svith the charred remains, and said that the
same men who had stolen the axe were concernc^d
iu this robbery also. It appears they have regular
messes of three or four who sliare everything in the
way of food. T^ast night Turgamus Mahommed woke
up and found Murjad Iled^van eating something by
huiisclf, and asked him, in a rage, what it was. lie
replied, " A rat," which it was. Turgamus said he
must also eat something, and thought of the tortoises,
and he woke up a third man to take them, and a fourth
to share them ! Tlie whole lot will be flogged if they
do not confess who actually stole them. The tortoises
luid very handsome shells ; and I was going to take tliem
home, after removing tiie bodies — one to be made into
a box for my wife's dressing-table (as all her brushes
kc. are of tortoiseshell), the other to be made into
a cigar-case on rollers, to pass round tlie table after
dinner : so it is a great disappointment to me. A\'ard
uiendins:, but very slowly. The sunsets are verv beau-
tiful now, when looking straight up the centre of
the river. I am beginning to long for an active life
again. I would rather a thousand times go through all
sorts of hardships than lead tiiis miserable existence —
doing nothing and living upon what we can get in
ransom for the few native women we can catch !

Septcinber 21sf. — 'I'urgamus Mahommed, who stole
iny tortoises, was flogged this morning before all the men.
No s'gn of Tii)])u-Tib or of his men. Another of
ilie cuptive women was ransomed to-day for eight fowls
and a lot of fish.

1887.
Sept. 20.

Yiimb'jya

■ ft

■ h\

14U

STOUr OF THE It EAR COLUMN.

1887.
Sept. 'J.-1.
i'ambiiya.

A Xativ;: of TriK ri-PKR C'oNdo.

September 2'2h(L — Selim Malioinmed, wlio lins re-
turned from a visit to AbduUairs camp, says tliat iiom
r(>j)()rts brought by natives here, the country about
tifteen days from here chan<j;es fi'om forest to grass,
wliere there are cattle and slieep. They say that Mr.
Stanlev liad one fiii^ht with some natives wlio arc
governed by a queen, or female cliief. One of my nioii
died to-day. This makes seventeen graves, and the
ninth deatli ia my company.

September 23>y/. — Finished all the sketches I made
during our trip to Stanley Falls, and to-morrow I mean
to begin collecting again. I spoke to Selim about the
informntion he gave Troup yesterday. lie told me that
Mr. v'-ftanii y liad a figlit with the natives six days from
here only three natives were killed, the chief's l)rother
hwd tvi) women. T<" ;nust liave been a white man wlio
.vm)I Ilim, foi lie was described as a man with a large
hni (Ml iiisj head. 1' ifteen days from here, he says, you
come uAl' a lively grass country full of shee}), l)ut no

DFAIU.

141

cattle. This information was obtainod from Manycina
natives, who ran away when Mr. Stanley entered the
count! y.

Sept ember 2ith. — I feel more and more every day
v.liat a waste of life it is bein<2j left for months in this
miserable camp. If jNIr. Stanley has all the confidence
in 'fippn-Tib which lie says he has, he coidd easily
have left all his stores at the Falls, and taken ns o£i
witli him.

Sepiemher 2ofh. — Bartholomew and "NFsa were bron^j^ht
in chains by Tippn-Tib's men to-day. Altlioni>h very fat,
they were evidently very mnch down on their Inck at
beini^ caught and brought back to camp. IJarttelot
had them removed in chains to the guard-house. It is
a capital thing, their being caught and brought back,
as it shows the other men the uselessness of running
away. One of the men from Bolobo died to-day,
making the eighteenth death in camp. Heard that
Ti})pu-Tib is at the Lumami River.

September 2C)th. — All our hopes of being able to go
on after Stanley have been destroyed to-day. Selim
Mahommed came down and had an interview with us.
lie informed us that news had arrived from Tii^pu-Tib
to the effect that he would have come himself, but Avas
ashamed to do so, as he was not able to bring the promised
men with him. His men had heard from those who came
up with us from Matadi of the weight and size of man
of our loads, and this seems to be one of the chief causes
of their not coming, also the failure of their first attem t.
They are all scattered over the country, fighting nnti\os
and following their own vocations. Tippu-Tib >('nt
forty men, whom he gave us to use as carriers, wit li out
any pay, in case we should think fit to send them with
a number of our own after Stanley (with some of the
loads), under white officers. He has written to his son
Sefo, at Kassongo, to send him the necessary number of
men for us, but it takes tliirtv davs to get there f>- )m
the Falls and fourteen to return, so that Mr. Stanley

18S7.
Sept. ja

Yumbuyn

1 i

142

STOliY OF THE lib: All COLUMN.

1887.
Sept. 20.

Sfambuya.

will, accordiiij^ to his calculations, have rcturncfl hero
before tliey arrive. We sliall simply have to sit down
for another two or three montlis, and exist. Barttclot
has determined to go to the Falls and sec Tippii-Tih
I have very grave doubts as to whether we shall ever see
Lake Albert Nyanza, and it is a pretty ending to our
share in the relief of Emin Pasha.

September 21 fh. — This morning justice was nioted
out to Bartholomew and Msa, the deserters and thieves.
They were flogged in front of all the men, Bartlioloniew
receiving 150 lashes and Msa 100. Tlie former kept
calling out " I die to-day, I die to-day," in a sort of
prolonged howl. Omaha, the Soudanese officer, an-
nounced that the native chief Ungungu had heard from
nati^'es up river that Mr. Stanley was returning with a
large force. He had had a big fight, in which the
natives had used bows and arrows ; twenty of the
Zanzibaris were killed, and one donkey. Mr. Stanley
then defeated the natives. This happened twenty davs'
journey from here. In consequence of this rumour
Major Barttelot has postponed his departure for the
Falls until he can find out what truth there is in it.
Troup and I went up the river after lunch to see
Ungungu, but he did not turn up, and so we returned to
the camp. How are the mighty fallen ! It is really sad
to see the shelter, for it cannot be called a hut, that this
chief now lives in, or rather sleeps in, since the Arabs
attacked his village and killed a lot of his men. It is
built just below the rapids, in the forest at the edge of
the water, and consists of a few leaves placed across a
couple of horizontal poles. He lives all the daytime in
his canoe, the few wives left to him accompanying him.
"Ward is mending, but still frightfully weak, and Bonny
has had a bad bilious attack, with severe rheumatic
pains. The men are all busy getting grass and poles
for the new houses we are having built for them, in tlie
fort.

September 2Sth. — For some reason or other Selim
Mahommed is very anxious to find out why Major

DIARY.

143

r)nrttolot is proinjij to tlio Falls, aiul ho ovidontly (loos
not l)oliovo what tlio Major has told him, that it is priii-
(.ipally to buy food and ibr a change.

Spj)feinher 2^fh. — I havo found out a capital plan to
make the men work ; any of them I catch idle 1 l)iini»;
into camp, and make them carry a case of ammunition
u|) and down inside the fort : they prefer to cut grass
and i)oles after this.

IS**?.

Sept. 28.

Yauibiija

September ?>()th. — Troup and I went up and
Tngungu, the native chief lie told us that
Stanley was within four days' march of the camp.

saw
Mr.

•

We bought from him a fine fish and a small sucking-fish,
of which I have made a sketch. Major Barttelot
has postponed his departure for the Falls for five
days, in case there is any truth in the rumour of
Mi. Stanley's approach.

October 1st. — Usual monotonous day, uninterrupted
by one single incidert worth mentioning.

October 2nd. — A number of natives passing in canoes
shouted out that Mr. Stanley was only two days' journey
off. Later on Ungungu came to the fort, and said that
twenty Zanzibaris of Mr. Stanleys force were coming
down in canoes, and would reach us to-morrow or the
day after. Stanley and the rest of the force were at Upi,
seven days from here, where he was having very heavy
fighting, the natives using bows and arrows. Ungungu
showed us a knife which the Zanzibaris had given him
for fish, as a joroof that he was speaking the truth.

14'

I ' I

tiTonr OF the rear column.

1887.
Oct. li.

ymubuja.

Tliaiik II(>;iv(Mi! WO shall know somotliiiij^ for cortaiii at
last. Scliin MalioiniiuHl s(Mit tlio Major and niysrlfii vciv
lino jjjoat as a prcsont, and tlio slicop I had to leave at
Su<i;urru arrived to-day, so tluit it nover rains Ijut ir
l)ours. AN'c have boon savin<i^ tho roniaind(>r of the
fowls for ^^'ard, and havo had nothini^ hut rice mid
beans for the last two oi- tliree days. Seliin Malioiniiied's
. nd canio into the fort, and i»-avo us a jj^roat s(>renii(l(.
(' ing dinner. Made a sketch of niy lionso, in wliich
1 have passed the dullest fourniontlis 1 have overspent
anywhere.

October oyv/. — Anxiously awaitinp^ tho arrival of tlio
men from .Mr. Stanley. Tlio Major and 1 an^ ^'oin^ an
to-niu'lit, with twenty Soudanese, to Abdullah's camp, to
set tlio mntter at rest, once for all. AN'ard ])ickinii' uj)
rapidly ; he went over to Troup's house, and sat tliero
several hours.

Odoher ith. — Tlio ^Major and I started at 2.."0 a.m.
for Abdullah's camp, witli a guard of twenty Soudanese
soldiers. The path is bad, and the jungle so thick that,
althouir'? tho moon was a good one, wo did not reach
the firs,: village from here, where Mr. Stanley cam])ed,
until 0.40, and Abdullah's cam]) at a quarter to 9, A^'e
could iind no traces nor obtain any news about the
twenty men supposed to be on tlioir way to us from
Stanley. The Arabs are making a regular station of
this village, and have burnt and razed to the grouiul
all the other villages passed on the road. They told
us that the natives are constantly coming to them from
below river, saying that Tip})u-Tib is coming, and only
about a day or two off; and with us they say the same
about Stanley coming clown from tlio opposite direction.
I am sure thoy think they will get a little ]ieace and
quiet as long as either is expected to make his a])pear"
ance. There are a good many rapids and islands on
the higher stretch of tho river, and these and the large
pitches of tall ruslios scattered along the banks make
a far prettier scene than tlio monotonous tameness
of tho views lower dc^vvu. A\'e saw tracks of a good

DIARY

145

iiiiiuN hippos, l)uf iill rouiii! 'jiibly small. Ti|)pii-'l'il)
lias ii very hard jol) hct'orc him, if iir nu'aiis to put a
std]) to slav(>ry in iiis territories. Ivory is really tlie
wealth of the eountry, and ('a))tured native \neii. and
especially w(jm(Mi, mean ivory, those of them not ran-
vMined hy their fiiends remaininLj: slaves. In AlHlullali's
villau'e we saw one ^anii" of uomeii working" with lopc's
round tlieir necks, and all fastened toi>-efl»er, wiio hore
1)11 tlieir bodies the nnmistakahle marks of |)n'ttv scn'ere
ilf)mi'inii,"s. As the Arabs do not slioot ele|)hants tliein-
>('|\t's, and hunt nothing' bnt men and women, it is
rhi'ii' only means of becominj^' rich and obtaininii; ivory.
()ii((> put a sto]) to this trade, and their only reason for
rciiiJiinin*'' in the country ceases. I cannot beliexc that
aiiv effectual chan^-e Avill take jdace for a very loni^
time, no matter how much Ti[)pu-'rib himself may
desire it.

October ^th. — The INIajor and Trouji leave to-morrow
lor the Falls, aad expect to be back about the 1st of
Xovember. I fear the s])rinij: under my house has not
ceased to flow, for it is as damj) as ever, and the lovely
fresh <ijreen of the ])alms surrounding- it shows that their
roots a''e well watered. All tlie men are now employed
iu building the new houses inside the fort.

1887.
Oct, 4.

'S'iniil)iiyn

Ocfoher (jfh. — Barttelot and Troup left at o'clock.
Shoik Bill Nasoro passed tliroufrli to-day, with a large
retinue, on his way up river. The Arabs secun to be
making stations right ahuig tlie route Mr. Stanley went
to the Lake ; they will soon have a very large foi'ce up
tliere, It looks as if Tippu-Tib were laigcdy increasing
his teri'itorv, so that, in case of any disai»'ivem(Uit with
the Congo Free State, he will be more powerful than
ever. Selim swears that he has entered into an airange-
meiit Avitli the Free State to settle the Congo right
down to Bangala. making stations at all the ])iinci])al
native towns. If lie once does this, the State will find
iiini a very nasty cust(nner to dislod<''e, sjionld they ever
wisli to do so. This morning onc^ of tli(> men out

140

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
Oct. i\.

V'uiiibuyd.

cuttiiifj: «!;riiss rotnrnod to crtii]) with his arm ;ind
sloiTiiich slashed n;j;lit across with a kiiifr — a (luaitcr of
an iiioh (h'cjxM' woiihl liavc liiiislicd him. I sent out ur
on('(^ for tlio mail wlio iiad stahhcd liim, wlio coolly
iiit'oniu'd mc that tlicv had had soino disj)ut(' aliout
manioc, and tliat tlio dovil had (Mit(M'od into hiiri. and
ma(h^ liim do it. \\v was ovi(kMilly tlic aj^j^rcssor a]]
tlirou<^ii ; so I tohl liim I should take measures to (l!i\(.
the devil out of him, and had him ])laced in chains ju
the <;iiard-room. I mean to have him flo<i;<red lu't'd^.
a full parade to-morrow. It is evident that Tij)))!!.
'V\h can find jdenty of men able and willing to ifo slave
and ivory hunting, alth()ut>h he cannot find inen for us.

Oc^ohcr Itli. — Justice was administered ujion the man
who stahlxMi the other, this moi-ning before a full
parade. He will think twice before he lets the devil
master h^M a se(n)nd time. A donkey-boy brought iiu'
in a small rail this evening which is (piite new to iiic;
although I have seen some like it in South Africa, vet
I know none where the colouring of the neck and
breast so abruptly terminates, differing entirely from
that of the rest of the body. Ward is now (piite well,
though weak, but Honny is seedy to-night with a
severe dose of fevei', leaving me the only tit white iiiiin
in camp.

Oifoher Sfh. — Bonny still very seedy. No more fever,
but constant sickness and pains in the head. M'ard
had a bad night, and is not so well as yesterday.
Painted and skinned the small rail, as well as a youii<f
one, brought me by the same boy. The Arabs have
spoilt our fish-market by trading with the natives in
axes and cloth ; they will sell nothing bnt the smallest
fish for matakas now, and we have to go a long way
from camp to get even those.

Ocfoher O^A. — Mahommed Dowd, one of the Sou-
danese officers, died to-day. This makes our tw'enty-
first death since we have been here — a large number
out of so small a force.

Blil:^^^i

DiAiir.

147

Orfohcr ]Ofh. — A f(Niif'iil storm of thiindor and rain
last ni«;lit, duriiifj; wliicli the four nativo wonicn prisoiicis
inadr tlicir («s('a|)(> tluoufjjli a holo in tlio boma. 1
cannot lu'lj) thinkini; the Soudanos(» lijid a hand in it,
for tlu'V c-oiild not liavo passed tlio sentries without
bt'iiiii: st'f'ii, and they were certainly all awaive each
tiiiu' I Avent my rounds.

Diioher Will. — llained nearly all day; the camp is
now in a horrible state. 'I'lie enormous (piantities of
fresh jjjrass put (m tlie roofs of the houses are now
rotten from the continuous wet, and at nii;'iit tlien^ is
a most unpleasant smell from them. Last nii^ht I
wont to sit for a bit with AN'ard, who was in bed ; our
conversation was disturbed by a noise from un(h>r the
head of the bed, and a rat ran out into the middle of tlie
rtoor. NN'ard said he thou<>'ht there was a snake after
it. and sat up; he had hai'dly done so, when a larne
snake ^'lided u]) beside his ))illow. lie s])ran<ij oiit of
bed, and j.>;ot on to the top of a box in the middle of the
room, whilst 1 ])rocured a sticdv. 'Ihe snake fell on to
the ground before I could hit it, and came out from
under the bed strai^-ht at my le<>-s. A Avell-directed
blow bioke its head, however, just as it raised it to
strike. It proved to be a long black snake about fi\ e
tl'ct in leni»"th, and a really ])()is()n()us one, very much
r('semblin<>- the common black cobra. Its belly was
pale yellow, with beautiful tints of o])al on it. Imme-
diately afterwards I killed a lar<>e bat with immense
ears, which came in to see what was going on.

Odoher Vlth. — Heavy rain again last night. Caught
six rats last night in my house ; but it does not seem
to have diminished the stock to any degree. Painted
vome lieads of natives from pencil sketches of AN'ard's.
NO one, wdio has not been situated as I am, can tell how
thankful one is for even small resources to occupy
one's time. AVere it not for the occujiation w^hich
drawing and collecting give me, I feel sure I could not
have ke])t free from illness during the four months I
have spent in this cam]). Thank goodness, Bonny is

■P^

1887.
Oct. 10.

\ iimbuya

lili

ifi

•!?:

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

li^lM |2.5
•^ 1^ 12.2

1.25 1.4 !.6

Photographic

Sdences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO

(716) 873-4S03

,<if

y:<^

,^-

148

SrOHY OF THE REAR COLUMX.

I I ''

1887.
Oct. 12,

?miibnyH.

well oiK)iiu:li to (jilu> ii turn round tlio sontrics at ni<rht
six niii:lits' riiniiinii' of it is ratlicr wearing!

Orf(ther \'^fli. — Tliis aftornoon Sdim Maliomincd
brou^lit mo a letter from the Major, wliicli contMiiicd
sei'ions news. Ilelind reached \ aiisuln on tlie Sth. and
'ri|)])u-'nh liad come to the same place next dav, and
told the .Major that t(Mi /anziharis had deserted Staiilcv
and come to him, l)rin<^in^' ivory, and claiming his y\u.
te(;ti(ni. He is going to send them here, Ahihilluli
did capture them, and llngungu's story was true, fur
some of them were in the camj) when the Major and I
went over there. The letter went on to tell me to put
the deserters under a guard of Soudanese on their
arrival here, to allow them to hold no communication
with any one, and to disarm all the /an/iharis in camp
exce))t the Munia])aras, stacking their rifles in onr
houses. 'J'his I shall do to-morrow. AMkmi I had
finished reading the letter, Selim Mahommed told nic
that he iiad received a letter from Tipi)u-'rih, telling him
that there w^ere still several deserters at Abdullah's camp.
and that he was to ask me to send a few men with some
of his, with a letter, ordering Abdullah to hand them
over, with their rifles and any ivory or loads tliey mi<:lit
have with themj, I at first thought of going myself.
but decided not to do so, as the Major left me here, in
sole charge of the camp, and should there be any row
here about disarming the Zanzibaris, Ward bein<i: ill
Bonny would be the only white man left ; so to-monow
morning I shall send five Soudanese, under Omalia as
their cliief officer, with Selim's men. The deserters
told Tip])U-Tib's people that they left Mr. Stanley
because nearlv everv day they were fighting nativ(>s who
used ])()isoned arrows, and there was some kind of Hy
Avhere they were, whose bites nearly killed them.
When they deserted, Mr. Stanley was still forcinu: his
way on to the Lake. I cannot think, however, that tlic
country can l)e such a very dangcu'ous one to ijo
through, or these ten men could nev(>r have got back
here. The Major left Yalisula for the Falls on tlis

DIARY

11th. Tt Wris a ])orf('(fly loverly day, so T ^vas ablo to
take out all Nelson's and Stairs' tliintrs and «j;ivo them
a •'•ood airing. The deserters liave not yet arrived.

(Ufoher 14///. — 'I'lie rainy season really seems to have
set in, for not a sin»j:le ni<i:ht passes without a severe
tliuiulerstorm. Sent ort"()inaiu\ and five ot'tiie Sondaiu'se,
with three of 'I'ippu-'iib's })eopIe, to hrin<j; in the
prisoners from Abdullah's camp. They did not start
until after breakfast, as Si'lim Mahommed was busy
s(Mi(ling off his men, with Inj^^uni^u as guide, to attack
a liULie native village some distance down the river.
After lunch, we made the men fall in with tlieir rifles
and stack them outside our houses, inside which they
were placed after being well oiled.

0(1 (hrr \-)fli. — The Sondanc^se returned with only
one ])risoner, six rifles, (17 cartridges, one belt, and a
])inulle of clothes d(me u]) in a blanket. The jnisoner's
storv is as follows : — After bein«>- with Stanlev for a
long time (he could not say how long, but it might
have been 100 days), his foot got very bad, and he
asked Mr. Stanley to aUow him to go in the boat with
tlie sick, which ^Ir. Stanley refused, but took his load
t'loui him. lie went on for three days, when he again
itMpiested to go in the boat, but was not allowed, lie
could go no further, and so was left. The natives
tried to take away his gun from him, but he frightened
tlicni. They then offered to show him the road, but
left him on an island alone, where he remained for
three days. On the fourth day he noticed a canoe
coining down river with eight men in it. He shouted
to them, and they took him on with them. They had
deserted from Stanley, taking a (pumtity of clothes and
ivorv with them. The ivory liad been taken in a villa";e
which Stanley had sent his men to capture. On their
way down river, whilst sleeping in a village from which
they had frightened the natives by firing oft their guns,
one of them was stablied through the leg by a native
who had stolen in amongst them. On icaching Al)d-
iilluh's camp, six of them went off to Ti})pu-Tib at

Oi!t. i;{.

Yiiiiibiiyii

lii'

)•■ I <

18«7.
Oct. 15.

Yaiubuya

l!i

■I f

ii I

* 1

150

snuiv OF Till': in: ah column.

Singatini. This man and tlio one who had h(>on
stabbed remained at Abfhdlah's cam]), while tlie nintli
man went with Abdulhih to show him a ])lace wlicic
he couhl find any amount of ivory. Of tlie front
column, no men had been kilhul in lighting, but two
had been killed when gathering manioc, and a good
many had died on the road. Nelson had been wounded
in the side by an arrow, and had gone one day in tlie
boat, but was marching again the next. AN'heu be
was left, Stanley was still keeping along the river
Aruwimi, using liis boat for the sick and some loads.
They had stolen a quantity of cloth and clothes from
Stanley, but had sold most of it to the Arabs. The
prisoner said he had really told me the truth, for he
was afraid of being punished severely if he told aiiv
lies. The bundle that reached me contained 1 blanket.
5 fezes, 2 black cloaks, 2 red cloaks (one gold eiii-
broidered), 3 i)airs of red pants, 1 striped tablecloth.
1 short white shirt, 1 long ditto, 2 waistcoats, 1 loiiir
coarse white shirt, 2 checked sashes, 1 piece of coloured
handkerchief, 1 piece of blue cloth, 1 bundle of ties.
Selim Mahommed informed me tluit the other six
prisoners are at Yalisula. There he has 28 women
captives in his camp, who will all have to be ransomed
with ivory or remain slaves. After the reports about
the hardships of the road spread by the deserters
amongst Tippu-Tib 's men, I fear there is but little
chance of our ever being able to get any men as cairiers
from him.

Octohcr lOM. — Nothing occurred to break tlie deadly
monotonv of our existence. I am glad to see a nuieh
brighter tone amongst the men. They have made
a couple of drums, and had a regular dance this after-
noon, and a free fight with sticks, in which one man
received a crack on the eye, which completely closed
it up.

October 17th. — Had a long conversation with Solim
Mahommed to-day, in which he gave me a good deal
of interesting information about the people in these

rLiil'liti i^iim ■•

7)1 Mty.

lol

p;.rts. l'|)()ii my iiupiirv as to wliy tlio natives Ikmv
(li;l not ('X(]ian;;(» tlicir ivory for <;uns, lie told mv tliat
tliiMc is no tiado whatever between tliese natives and
tliDse lower down at the month of the river. If they
attempt to \i,n down river, they are caiifj^ht and cniten,
uliich fate e(jually awaits those who come nj) from
liclow. I'jxin certain days markets are held, similar to
t!u> one descrilu'd by me at "Nalisula, bnt to these no
amis of any kind are allowed to be bron<;ht. The same
]i(o]>le who sell and l)ny from one another to-day will
cat one another to-morrow. All the natives from
IJanii'ala nj) to the Falls, both on the ('on«(o and on all
its tril)ntaries, are cannibals. Tliey certainly are snch
at tlie Falls, and fnrther n]) the Conjijo to within a few
(lavs of Nvanu'we. Cnrions to sav, a river marks the
hoiiudaries of cannibalism in that direction, as o\\ this
side of the river they are cannibals and on the o])|)osite
side ther(> are none. I asked him if they preferred
Ijlack or white ])eo))le to eat. 1 fe at (mce said, " AVhite.**
riiey say that onr wliite colonr arises from onr beinj^
all fat," and have asked Salem what we eat to make
us so " fat." He asked me whether, at Sn<rnrrn, I had
observed how tlie natives had stared at me, addini>' that
he had heard them remark, as I strolled am(ni<j^st them,
lint " Here is a wliite man," bnt " 'Hiis is fnt" They
{,, -not l)elii've that onr colour is natnral. lie assnres
me that even the bravest of the Arabs, he hims(>lf
(ini()u«^st the nnmber, arc bad Inmters, as they are all
iifiaid of bi«»- <>ame. One day he was ont after elephants
with a Swedish officer from the Falls, and when they
caine across one the white man fired and struck it in
the head, u})()n which it shook it violently, and Sc^lim
rail away ! "NMien he returned he found the ele])hant
dead. Tippu-Tib, he tells me, is on the Lumami River
with llacliid. He also says the Arabs have taken
nearly all the villa«j»es on the lower Aruwimi, and that
most of the native chiefs have gone to the Lumami to
make peace with Tipi)u-Tib.

Oct. 17.

October 18#/i. — Our camp was visited to-day by a

' m

102

STOltV or Till-: Ji'h'AJt COLUMN.

18^7.
Oct. Irt.

Vambiiya.

, t

nmnhcr of nntivo cliicl's and tlicir followers, who had
come uj) from villji<4:('s lower down tlio riv(M'. to make
])eace with Selini Msdioninied. They have ])roinis('(l tn
trade with lis. Shot a small dotterel, or ringed jdovci.
and sketched it : it appears lo he exactly th(» same as tin-
Kn<,disli one. The otluM-, which I sliot and sent lionif
in August, was sli^i^htly different in jdnmai^e, and with.
ont the wljite rin<if ronnd the neck. Anotiier /an/.iliaii
died yesterday, makin*; the 2)Jrd death.

Ocfolur WHii. — Selim Maliommed told me to-day tliat
one of tlie chiefs who yisited him yesterday, who ((iiiicn
from Ahdnllah's cam]), says it is ])erfi'ctly true tliat
einht men esca])ed from Stanley and came down river
in canoes, ])ickin<i; up the ninth man on an island, lie
says they were witli Stanley for two months, or moons.
l)efor<' they deserted, and that they wen* fifteen days in
the canoes, ))ad(llini; all day. If they only ])addle(l ten
houis a-day, or rather floated at the rate of two niiUs
an hour, thev must have come three hundred miles
downriver! Salem tells me that they arrived at Ahd-
nllah's camp with an enormous number of spears and
knives, which they had taken from the natives. Ipdu
ap])r()achini>: a villajj^e they fired a feAv shots into it.
Avlien all tlie natives ran awav ; they then entered, and
took all they could find. This afternoon Msa, Hartlio-
lomew, and another thief, who went out in chains uiuler
the guard of one sergeant and a private, to gather tire-
vyood, all escaped. I sent off all the available men after
them, as did Salem Mahommed, and went ont iiiyselt
and scoured the bush in every available direction, but
to no purpose.

Octohcr 'li)th. — Torrents of rain all night and no moon,
so the escaped prisoners had no chance of getting far
away. After breakfast Selim Mahommed sent down their
chains, which had been found in the water between liis
two camps. They have evidently smashed o])en the
rings with a stone. At four o'clock one of the sick
men repented having seen all three men in tlie manioc-
fields, a few moments before. I then sent off Omaha

II M

DIARY

ir,:^

and six <»f \\w Soudniioso soldiers in tlio o])])()sit(' direc-
tion, to |)revent any of the /i»ii/il)nris in canii) from
(rivini; warning to the tliieves, witli or(U>rs to tnrn hack
from the manioc-fiehls and retnrn to cainp. I ran np and
told Selim Mahoninied where the jnisoners were, and
he iit once sent oft" men for them. 'I'hey were heanti-
fully can«j:ht, for they fonnd my Sondanese men outside
them, and Selim's men cominLT s>f them from the camp.
The little old man and IJartiioloinew were cajJturtMl,
and men are now after Msa. I have ])lace(l the serii;eant,
Avlio allowed the prisoners to esca])e, under arrest until
the Major's return. Sketched a tortoise Omahu l)rou«j;ht
me.

Orfoher 21. v^.— Sent off a letter to l^arttelot, tellin<?
liim that Msa is still at larti;e. 'Die /an/ihaiis are the
laziest and most heartless lot of men 1 have ever come
across. I found them to-dav takiny; the wooden head-
stones out of the <j;raveyard for fire- wood, rather than <ijo
a few yards further on to wIkmc there Avas i)lentv.
Selim tells me that 'ri])pu-'ril)'s men have taken Hasoko,
getting a good deal of ivory and some guns.

October 22n(1. — Sent out the Soudanese after ^fsa
ai;ain to-day, but they returned without having seen
him.

Sioiflay^ Oct. 2?>rd. — Shot a beautiful specimen of the
chanting falcon this morning, and made a sketch of it.
Selim Mahommed has a most excellent plan of trading
\vith the natives. lie first of all ca])tures a number of
men, and then every day thev are sent out to gather
two loads of manioc, the one for food, the other to buy
fish from the natives. Of course all the manioc really
belongs to the natives, but he does not let them take
it, so they have to buy it from liim with fish, or what-
ever else they have that he requires. It really amounts
to the same as going into a man's shoj), turning him
out into the street, and then selling him his own
goods. Assad Farran tells me that Scdim Mahonniied
has sold to one of the Soudanese seigeants a young slave-

Oi't. 'JSI

Vanbiiyi

\ 1

154

spiuy or Till-: uhau colums.

1887
Oct. 23.

i^ii'l for a clot!) ovcrcoiit. I niii i;<>iii,ii: to tire \\v\- out n{
yamhuya. t''^' oairi)), Mild tillow tllciii tlicii to settle tlie iii'.ittc;

I 'I I

leiiiselves

The men liad tlieir iisiuil liiilf-liolidiP

Ocfohcr 'l\tli. — All the men iit work re|»;iiriii:; tin

main hoiiia, and n'cttinii; <^riiNS for houses.

Ochthct' 'l')th. — 'rii(> ('am|) is now almost coniiilrtclv
finished, iind there is little or nothiiii; for the iiirii te
do. One of the Soudanese soldiers died yesterdiiy.

Ocfvher 'l^\Ui. — 'ri|)j)u-'ril), jircordin^ to Seliin Ma-
honimed, has heeii hack at the Falls some time. Whole
armies of ants attacked some of the houses of the
/an/iharis to-day, renderini^ them (jiiite uninhMl)it;rhlc,
but they left them aLiaiii this eveiiin<;-.

(h'toher 'Hill. — \N'e had just tinished lunch when a
Zanzihari, wiiom I did not reco,i>'ni/e, came into the
cam]), wnlkinjj; frightfully lame, and dra^|L!;inii: himself
by the aid of a ])ole : he sat down outside my hoiisc.
It turned out he was tln^ wounded d(»serter from Mi
Stanley. He has b(HMi badly stabbed throu^'h both Iclis
I have made two exnininations of liim. \\v says thc\
were two months and a hnlf with Stanley before* tin y
deserted, and twenty days in the canoe coming" down
river. Only sev(>n desert(Ml acc()](lin<»; to him, and ])i(k('<l
up the eiL!:hth man on the islnnd. 'I'hey escai)e(l by iioiii.;;
ahead of the column when on the march, and, |)ur[)()scly
takin<j: the wron*? road, lay down in the <»rass to
bide. They had seven rifles with them, but lost oih\
They also Inouj^ht an enormous number of s])ears :iiul
knives, which they took from the native villii^(>s. At
one villa«»e which Mr. Stanley entered, the natives ran
away when the ii;uns were fired, but returned ajjjain and
attacked them. Nelson shot two, but was hit by an
arrow' in the chest, and was ill for some time, haviuij; ^o
go in the boat, but all were well when they deserted.
A long distance from here this river turns to the south-
east, where another river, e([ually large, runs into it
from due east. Mr. Stanley lu^'l <>n o'.ie occasion told
them that it did not matter if they all ran J) way, he

11 '-^

'11 ';j4*iMdlM<Ba

J (

' . ' ' ' .■

; I f

,l(«si'ilrr in
whicli |»<)ii
tlic twi) (1«
scliiii Mall
nicn liixl

(•11111]), !»ll(l

t'lV tlu'iu.
,l(»\vu with

liis knife,
tlic other
hiin, l)iit
1)11(1. li<'i»
jst!il)l)0(l in
the cntrail
a shadow
badly cut
reeded in
wound,
breast,
who assau
so easily c

Ocfohn

in the stoi

yellow wa:

i have bi

really spo

One "of tl

is a nasty

very wide

wound, ci

rod. AV(

swollen,!

and left

could se(

thing elsi

red one ;

a half a

'ii'^'U ii«—

1)1 Mil.

|.')7

S(
UK

WMiiM rciicli the linkr. I lie natives hndiijlit this
(locrtcr ill ii cnnoc as far as tlic rapids vcstcKlaN. iVom
wliicli point lie (liai;L!;<'<l liiinsclt' licrc. 'I'lic names ul"
flic two deserters now lieic are Dalumia and Miil'la.
■liiii Malioinmed came down to tell me that t\>(» of his
n had heen l)adly stal)hed hy iiatiNcs not fir ti«»m
(•;ini|). and lie wished to know if we conhl d<» an\thiny^
t'lr iheia. 'I'hev nu't two nativ(»s, (me of wliom sat
ilown witii tliein in (piite a friendly mann(>r, hni after
nilkiiiii' for u hit he suddenly jum|)(>d up, |)iille(l out
his knife, and stahhed the two Aralis, one in the chest,
the other in the stomach. They say that they killed
hiiM, hut I do not helieve it, for their wounds are too

Oil -'7.
^'llnlllllV'k•

Mn.

'I'

le man

1)11(1. Bonny and I went ii]) to see tin
stal)hed in the stomach was very had, a hir«ie ])ortion of
tiie entrails protrudinjjj from the wound, and h(^ has not
a shadow of chance, for the entrails themselves are
hadlv cut; however, after much difficultv, Honnv sue-
reeded in pushinii: them back a<2:ain, and ; cwed up the
)und. The other man had a larjje wound in the left

\V(

breast.

Verc other natives as ])hickv

le man

who assaulted these two Arabs, the slaves would not be
so easily captured!

Ociohcr 2Sfh. — Stranf^je to say, the man who was stabbed
in the stomach was much better this m()rnin«>\ I shot a
yellow wa<»tail and two spine-tailed swifts. The wa«>tail
I have been after for some time, and the swifts were
really sporting shots. Hying very fast at a great height,
(hie of the Soudanese was bitten by a snake ; the bite
is a nasty one on the ankle, with the marks of the fangs
very wide apart. We i)ut a tourni(piet on above the
wound, cut it open, and burned it with a red-hot ram-
rod. AVe had no ammonia. The leg was very little
swollen, but the man complained oi' pains in the stomach
and left side, especially over the hearc. As far as I
could see, he was suffering more from fright than any-
tliing else. The snake was described as a small, thin,
red one; the marks of the fangs were about an inch and
a half a])art. I have never in my life spent such aa

I'kS

SToity OF riiH uh'AJi coLUMy,

1P«7.

Oct 'JH.
Vaiiibuj'ii.

i.'l'/

utterly uscloss four moiitlis, and I liojn' I iiiay never
liiive to do so a^nin.

Orfoh('r"l\^th. — 'riuMnan wliowas stablM'd in tli('st.mi;i(}i
is to-day walUiiii^ al)out, f'ctcliiiii^ wood and watci, I
liavo iicard of niiraclcs bcf'oro, hut never seen one until
now! I found my l)oy Mufta, wlioin I was kmIK
l)e«jjinnin«^ to trust, had heen stealing' my salt, so I lisiil
to recur to the only method to make si ni«;j;-er honest.
and <^avo him fifty well-applied strokes. It is onlv
through fear that one can make them sj)eak the truth.

October 'M)fh. — AnotluM* axe is missin<jf to-day, imd a
spade, so 1 stopjx'd all the men's paynuMit until they
are ijroduecd. At o.SO this afternoon l$arttelot cnnie
into (tamj), all hy himself, havin<; come ahead of his
men. Troup he had left at \'alisula, with Salem
Masudi the inteipi(«ter, to conu^ on with the «i:oats ;iii(|
fowls. They had 10 mnxX'A and 02 fowls wiien the
Major left. Then" is no hope of ^ettin«^ men from
Kassonf^o, as Sefo has some war ^oinjj; on tluMe. The
Major says Ti|>i)u-Tih was p-eatly pleased with the ritle
I ^ave him, and had sent me a ])resent of two ^oats.
They seem to have had a very pleasant time* at the
Falls, and enjoyed tiieir tiip very much. The five de-
serters from Stanley are comini; on here with Troup.
They tfive the most contiadictory reports about Stank y,
and about the amount of food they found on the roach
Tippu-Tib does not seem to be playing a straij^ht i^atne,
and the Major thinks that he is probably hano;inj;' hack
on the (thance of Stanley having eventually to place the
whole thing in his hands for so mnch powder and a
lump sum.

Ocfdhcr Z\sf. — Four of our men went up to the vilkifre
where Selim Mahommed's Arabs had been stabbed in
search of plantains, when the natives seized one of
them, and were going to kill and eat him, as they
thought he behmged to the Arabs. They have been
driven out of their village on the mainland and are now
living on an island. As soon as our man succeeded in

ii^

liiikii

I)/ Alii'.

159

tniilviiiij; tlu'iii iiiKlcrstaiid tliat li(» \vas one of Mr. StaiilcN s
nirii,aii(l not 'rij>|)U-'ril)'s, tlicy let him ^o. It is a 'fioin]
nitiiit ill favour of the natives, lliat tliry will not uillinj^'ly
molest any of our men. 'Ihe Major to-(la> released the
two deserters from Stanley, and the thief, hut liartho-
li)tiiew is still in chains. One «)f the Soudanese was
i(>j»orted dead, and a hnryinf^ party was told "off, when
he Niiddenly came to life aijain, and is still idi\('. Selim
Maliommed sent to the natives on the island, who
stiihlx'd his two men, to tell them that he will sj)aro
thcin if they will send him two huyv tusks of ivory,
hut if not he will annihilate th(>m.

Kitiwmber \st. — Un<j:unij:u, the native eliief, paid Selim
Maliommed in ivory to-day for some of his captured

' Jr^S^ Disk

IS87.

OH. ;n.

Yaniliuya

women. Wlien S(>lim Maliommed first cnmo hero, he
talked a ^reat deal a])()ut making our camp into a
jK'rmanent station after we leave it, as they wished to
settle all the natives and live amon«jjst them. However^
the other day he showed his true colours, when, in n^ply
to some remarks of the Major's about what a <^()od camp
it would be for them, and a sudden inquiry as to whether
lie really was ^oiu<j: to occuj)y it, he exclaimed, " Oh, no !
there is very little ivory about here !" Directly they find
ivory scarce amongst the natives, and that they cannot
ransom their captured women, the Arabs at once move
on to pastures new\

November Iml. — This morning Major B. had a long in-
terview wdth the deserter who is stabbed through the
legs. He told us that a very long way from here they had

I ! i i

i'l'Mi'f

H i^

100

SJ'Ojn' OF TIIK REAli COLUMN.

ri:i

nI.^'iL coino to a iiativo villai»o in wliicli some of Ti|ipu-Til)'s
Y^n.buya. Aiiibs aro liviiiii^. Tlicy made friends all round, imd
Stanley bouLflit fowls and jjjoats. Next mornin*;, \\\\v\\
they started, h(^ found tliat fifty men had deserted, and
not a trace of the Arabs was to be found. Ilcalvi
said that a great many men had died on tlie road, and
a great many loads had been lost tln-ough the upsettiii"

\y l<::r'^

^^i^j,.i^::

01 tne boat in the rapids, which tiaa occurred several
times. All the donkeys were dead except two. Mr.
Stanley would not allow the men to loot the native
gardens and villages, and therefore they were very short
of food. Salem, the interpreter, arrived shortly after
lunch, and Major 13. 's luggage some time afterwaids ;
the men carrying it said that Troup was some distance
behind, but would be in to-day. However, he did not
make his appearance by daylight. AVe had just finisliod
our pipes after dinner, when we heard five shots tired in
rapid succession, either from a revolver or a Winchester,
not far from camp. Then came several dropping shots,
which we answered. I started off with Omaha, tliink-
ing that Troup was eitlier in trouble with the natives
or lost in tlie bush, and found him about half an hour
from camp, stuck in a cane-swamp (having lost liis way),
with fifteen goats and about forty fowls in bnsk(>ts.
'\\\e air was blue all about the swamp with the bad
languaije that had been used in many touij^ues. (iieat

Fj HmWti

■M

DIARY,

1<U

were the curses hurled aij^ainst Salem, the iuterpreter,
for l(Mving them without a ])r()])er iijuide ; however, we
(fot tliem all into the path, and safe iuto camp.

yovcmher ord. — IJarttelot told iSelim Mahommed to-
day tliat it would be much better if Salem, the interpreter,
(lid not come inside our cam]) at all, in C(msequence of
the many un])leasantnesses that have occurred since
leavin*; here for the Falls. Selim Mahommed told us
that Tippu-Tib had written to him, telling him tliat as
soon as Sheik Mahommed Ali arrived here, he was to
leave for the Falls, in order to go up to Kassongo, and
bving down the six hundred carriers Tippu-Tib is trying
to get from there. He afterwards bronglit down tlie
boy Farani, whom Tippu has sent me as a present to
keep as long as I like, either to take to England or to
send to Zanzibar, Avhichever I chose. It appears tliat
the Major and Troup have been fearfully taken in about
the payment for the goats. They paid three pieces of
handkerchief for each, quite double their value, all
being small, and a number of them kids.

Xovemher 4M. — Msa turned up in the charge of some of
Ti})pu-Tib's Arabs. A.li Mahommed, Tippu-Tib's chief
sheik at the Falls, arrived, also the chief of Yambau.
Selim Mahommed is going away the day after to-mon'ow,
and all his men cross to the other side of the river, so
we shall be left alone again, Ali Mahommed brought
the Major a young antelope, which I think must be a
bush buck. It is alive, but too young to live without

milk, so I am going to kill it and preserve the skin.
Sidem Masudi, the interpreter, left for the Falls to-day,
evidently in high dudgeon. Both the Major and
Troup had to use very plain language to him on their
nip to the Falls. He is one of those men who, sooner
than remain silent, lie, simply to make conversation.
Captured a lovely goliath beetle this morning, the first
I have seen here, and another rare beetle figured in
Herr Pogge's work.

November hth. — The Major left it to Troup, Bonny,

1887.
Nov. 2.

Yainbuja.

"' f '^l^j

l^'i!

n I
I ft

1887.
Nov. f).

Tambuya.

162

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

AVard, and myself to try, and pass sentence on, Msa anrl
Bartholomew. I proposed working them hard every
day in chains, as I am sick of flogging, but the other
three proposed 150 lashes each, and as they are in the
majority, that sentence will be administered to-morrow
morning. Selim Mahommed leaves to-morrow for the
Falls, and is to start immediately from thence to Kas-
songo to collect earners for us. We had sat down to
dinner, when Bonny noticed a light in the other store,
and upon going over, discovered his boy and Troup's
filling a large basket with manioc flour out of one of
our bags. They were placed in the guard-room for the
night, and there will be more flogging to-morrow.

November Qth. — Major Barttelot postponed the pri-
soners' punishment till to-morrow morning, but the two
boys received thirty lashes each,

November 7th. — Msa took his 150 lashes, Bartho-
lomew only 75, as he is still tender from his last
flogging. Shot a beautiful paradise flycatcher, and a
small barbet with lovely turquoise wattles round its eyes.
Troup and the Major very seedy.

November Sth. — ^There is the beginning of what might
be a very serious disagreement between the Arabs and
ourselves. They are beginning to prevent the natives
trading Avith us. Both yesterday and to-day, when
Omaha was sent to buy honey and fish, the Arabs
interfered and prevented the natives selling him any-
thing. The Major spoke to the Arab left in charge
of Selim Mahommed's men, and told him that if it
occurred again he shoidd send at once to Tippu-Tib,
and make a formal complaint.

November 9th. — Omaha crossed to the native village,
accompanied by the Arab left in charge by Selim
Mahommed, but returned with only a small pot of
palm-oil. It now appears that a few days ago he had
some dispute with the natives in a canoe, and threw
stones at them, and now they will sell him no tiling.
The native, say if we send another man, not Omaha,

DTARY.

163

they will sell to him. This, it seems, ^s the real reason
whv he got nothing yesterday.

Glorious news, if it only turns out to be true ! A
white man (or men) is coming down the river with a
larii;e })arty, some in canoes, some on land, and they will
be hero in three days' time. This must be Stanley or
messengers from him. Thank God, there are now
liopes of doing something at last. The day I hear we
hiive to go up to the Lake, I shall certainly do a dance
round my old helmet and jump upon it ! The Major
has a bad touch of fever.

yoremhcr l^th. — Natives still tell the same tale about
tlie white man and many followers coming dow^n the
river. We are all in great spirits at the prospect of
making a move at last ! Had the fence round our
graveyard repaired to-day, and new^ headstones, or rather
sticks, placed to all the graves, which now number
twenty-five.

Xovenib")' 11th. — To-day all our hopes w'ere scattered
to the winds. The chief Arab informed us that the
news of Stanley's approach is false. A large party of
Arabs, the chief of whom is almost white, passed through
here some time ago, and went up the river on an ivory
and slave-hunting expedition, and it is their return to
which the natives refer. Sketched a couple of barbets.
The Major is better. A Zanzibari died to-day, making
the 2Gth mound in our graveyard.

yovemher 12th. — Shot a small squirrel, of w^hich I
made a sketch life-size. Began building a large new
liouse to-day, half of it for a mess-room, the other half
as the Major's dwelling-house.

November loth. — Had to lie up all day. Full of

rheumatism.

November 14f/i"j

to > Laid up with jaundice,

November 'dOth. )

ii2

1887.
Nov. 9.

Yambuya.

1887.
Dec. 1.

Sfanibuja.

if!;-

i I

1G4

STOUr OF THE lil'LUi COLUMN.

December \sf. — Ycstenlay for the first timo I ^vas
able to take a short Avalk up and down tlic roiid, and
join the others at meals. The Arabs left beliind by Sclim
Mahommed have been p^ivin^j^ a pjreat deal of trouble lor
some time, by preventing tlie natives from sclbn;,' ns
food. They tried to make us buy thin<]js throuiili tlioni-
selves, of course at treble value. At last Major IJait-
tclot determined to send a letter to Tippu-Tib, aiul ask
him to set matters straight. Ward accordingly started
on the 19th November, and got back here yesterday
evening. Tippu-Tib had started for Kassongo fivo davs
before his arrival at tlie Falls. The Arabs assnrod
Ward he had gone to collect men for Mr. Stanley.
Selim Mahommed said lie would return here himself in
a few days. After all AWard need never have left, as a
few days after his departure for the Falls all tlie Arabs
went down river to " make war," as thev call it, \yith
some village near Basoko. Troup has been very ill;
at one time it was quite serious, but yesterday, thank
goodness, he began to mend. Ward brought about
forty eggs with him from the Falls, so he ought to pull
himself together with them. Last night the men killed
a poisonous snake, which I have made sketches of. It
measured 5 ft. 9 in. Whilst v>'riting this I heard a
great uproar, and on going out found they had killed
another snake, similar to the one I killed in Ward's
house. There is one in mv house, and I hear him
chasing the rats all round the place at night, but have
not yet seen him. No news of Mr. Stanley.

December 2nd. — A whole half and a separate leg of a
goat were stolen from AVard's house last night. Some
of the picked bones were discovered in the camp close
to the Soudanese quarters. This is the most dariiio;
robbery they have yet attempted.

December Zrd. — The greater part of the meat was dis-
covered in the thatch of the hut of Burgari Mahommed,
the suspected Soudanese sentry. He was at once put
under arrest, when he accused Muledi, the Major's
boy, of having actually stolen it, a most improbable

DIARY.

165

talc. L<ist night the snakes made a regular attack
on tlie camp, and I heard this morning of five having
been killed. The natives on the other side of the river
had quite a gala afternoon, canoe-racing, manocuvering,
(lancing, singing, and tomtoming to any extent. One
of mv men died to-day. Several of the men in camp
are oiily walking skeletons, and the marvel is how they

exist or move at all. One man, who walks with rather
an active upright motion, is a horrible sight, liaving
notliing but loose folds of skin over his bones.

I)ecember ^th. — Burgari Mahommed was flogged to-
day, before all the men. The Soudanese are wonder-
fully plucky in bearing pain, for although he received
150 strokes, which cut him up very much, he never
uttered a sound. One of the Zanzibaris from Bolobo
died, making thirty deaths. Had my first good night's
sleep for a long time, and woke up quite a new man.

Lecemher t>fJi. — I was perfectly right in thinking that
Barttelot's boy, Muledi, had not stolen the meat, for
to-day Burgari Mahommed confessed that he had lied,
and that the boy had not taken it.

1887.
Dec. 3.

Yambuja

lit

166

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
Deo.

Vambuja.

December dth. — Every day that passes without news
of Stanley makes me think that he has persuaded Kmiu
Bey to come out with him by this route, and then
across to Zanzibar by Tippu-Tib's route. It is perfecth-
sickening to think of it all. Here am I within nine
days of having been six months in this camp ! TLid I
ever dreamt of such a thing, I would certainly never liave
joined the Expedition. There is not a new variety of
bird, beast, fish, or insect to give a moment's excitement
to the naturalist's side of my nature ; and tlie deadh-
monotonv of an existence, for it cannot be called livinir,
may be imagined, in which the only incident to be
noted is the occasional flogging of a man.

December 1th. — A Soudanese soldier died to-day, the
31st death in this camp. AVhen one of them pjets
really sick here, his comrades will not do one sini,de
thing to help him, unless positively ordered to do so ;
and yet these are the very men who, on the marcli,
from Matadi to the Pool, swore that they would rather
remain behind than desert a sick comrade, and if a
man fell out, two or three more fell out with him at
once, according to their oath, making Major Barttelot
mad with the constant delavs. Dinner to-ni"ht qow-
sisted of \)\(m\ boiled rice and fried plantains, ditto for
breakfast.

December Sth. — Heavy rain. Spent great part of the
day in drawing Christmas cards to give to the other

officers on Christmas Day. To-night, thanks to "Ward
w^ho is mess-president, we had the best dinner I have
eaten since we left the coast. Since he has taken over

I. ,',iiii<—iii I

DTARY.

167

the mess, there is great improvement in the cooking in
every way.

December Wi. — Two more deaths. Shot two very
liaiulsome plovers, chocolate-coloured breasts, and bright
kMiion-coloured wattles over the eyes. The Major told
mc tliat he had heard to-day tliat Tippu-Tib sent mes-
sengers after Stanley, who had f(jllowed his route nearly
to tlie Lake, as far as he could gather, but that they
could hear nothing of him. lie seems to think this
bad ncAvs, but I consider it good, for it proves tliat
Stanley must have got on at a good pace ; had he been
stopped anywhere, they would have heard of it.

December l^th. — Another Zanzibari from Bolobo
died. Ward has been sketching some of our living
skeletons. A great many of them have a most horrible
disease. They break out all over in pimples, which
gradually grow together and form great sores. Others
have their legs covered with large ulcers, and out of all
the men in camp there are not more than loO who
could caiTV loads.

December 11th. — Some of Selim Mahommed's men
have arrived, with orders to build him a house, so he
really is coming. It is a gi'eat nuisance, as we get on
so much better without him and his men. The first
birth we have had in camp took place to-day. One of
the goats had a kid, and both mother and child are
doing well.

December 12th. — Another of the Zanzibaris from
Bolobo died to-day. In the morning Bonny had told
one of his men to cook some food for the sick in his
company, and also told him to bring the food, so that
he might see it given to the sick. When the man
brought it, he went up to the huts where the sick are,
and, after seeing some of them, he turned to one of the
huts and said, " W^ho is in here ? ", at the same time
pushing the door open, and was astonished to find a
man inside dead and quite cold. When asked, they
said it was not long since they had attended to him ;

1887.
Dec. 8.

Yambuyai

;|i-

•'.■M3l

M-

; I ■•

108

STOJty OF THE REAR COLUMN.

1887.
Dec. 12.

I (I

IMI

but I expect tlic truth is thry had not soon him slurp
Yambuya y^'stcrday. Unless made to do it, they wouhl not move
a hand to help a sick man, ))ut just leave him to dif,
even if he were their own brotlier.

December 13/A. — As Troup was ill on his birtliday,
we had the great dinner to-day whicli we intended to
have liad on that festival, as liarttelot said the lilth of
this month is a great day witli him. Dined off soujt,
roast shoulder of goat, and a rolly-poly pudding. Troiii)
supplied a pot of jam, and the Major and 1 gave tlu>
flour, which constituted the whole of one of our tins,
or one man's allowance for six months. No news what-
ever of Stanley. If he is bringing out Emin Hey and liis
ivory, that would certainly delay him a good deal.

December lith. — Spent part of the day in making a
sketch from one of Ward's drawings of a Soudanese
soldier. Both in the morning and evening I took a
stroll with my gun, but did not get a shot or see a bird
to shoot at, tliat I have not already got. Not a sini;lo
thing of interest to make a note of. The monotony of
this camp life, without one atom of sport or excitement
of any kind to relieve it, is becoming perfectly sickening.

December \^)fh. — I find the average temperature here
to be from 72° to 85'' in the shade, up to 110° in tlie
sun ; very seldom lower than 72° or higher than 8;")° in
the shade. Lowest temperature at night 09°. Bart-
telot brought me a lovely beetle to-day, a longicorn.
It is quite new to me, and I believe I put the female
into spirits this morning without taking much note of
it. This day six months ago we arrived at Yambuya !

December '\(Sfh. — The natives across the river killed
an elephant yesterday ; they have done nothing but
feast ever since. Killed a tortoise to-day ; it 1ms a
beautiful shell, which I shall take home. INIade a
sketch of his head, which looks like that of some
antediluvian monster.

DfAllY.

1G9

lU'cemhcr \lth. — Troup, tlio >raj<)r, and 1 all rlreamt
of Stiiulcy's return tlio ni<^lit l)of()ro last. Trou]) dreamt
that he came back by himself, without any of tlu* otlier
white officers, and when asked where tliey were lie
([iiite calmly remarked that he did not know, and evi-
dently did not care, merely sayin<? that tliey had each
chosen their own road, and he knew notliinjj: about
them. The Major dreamt that he anived at camp
looking jolly and well; that William, his servant, came
inside our boma, when the Major at once ordered him
(Hit, and proceeded himsel to Mr. Stanley's tent, and
found him with a lawyer, upon wliich lie at once re-
marked, " Oh, you arc for the Crown, I won't say any-
thinjj^ ;" and the dream ended. I dreamt that we saw a
nninl)cr of canoes coming down the river in a long line,
and in one of them a large white umbrella, and I at
once saw that it was Mr. Stanley, at which moment I
awoke.

JJecemher ISfli. — Shot the handsomest sunbirds 1

have yet seen, much resembling some I

got

in the

Maslioiia country.

December Idfh. — Two deaths in camp to-day. Cut
open the throat of a goat which was dying. It ap-
peared healthy, with the exception of the lungs, where
there was a black spot, which when opened proved to
be a regular cell ; inside this again was agg-shaped
semi-transparent body, with a white worn, inside, and
two black marks on it, caused by some body of that
colour, inside, near the outer shell. There were no
si<j;us of inflammation about the black spots on the
lungs, and the cells were completely buried in the
lung itself. The two sunbirds I shot yesterday were
evidently breeding, for the hen had fully developed
eggs inside her, and yet the cock Aas quite a young
bird in immature plumage, which makes me think
that they must rear more than one brood in the
year. I notice the x;hanting falcon is still going about
single, and has not paired again since I shot its mate
about two months ago. I tried to kill a splendid

1S87.
Dec. 17.

Ymubuya.

\tm

\.H:^

1 ' f

170

sTour OF Tilt: it i: Ait column.

Dec. 11).
Yaiubuya,

i.M

emorald-groon siiako to-day, but it escaped tlirou^fli the
boma on to tlie river-l)auk. Tfio men coiniTUMiccd \\\\<
afternoon to ])iit up tbe frames of tlie house for Stanlcv j^
men when tliey come back.

Decemher 2()th. — Succeeded in getting; throe beetles
to-day, quite new to nie, one of them a very l)eantii'iillv
marked longicorn. Our days are divi(kMl l)y l)re;ik.
fast, luncli, and dinner, whicli, in tlieir turn, are remi-
lated by the sun, as tliere is only one watch tliat "iues
— Troup's — and tliat only goes by fits and starts. It is
very like life at sea, the same deadly monotony, onU
broken by intervals of eating.

Decemher 2\st. — Shot a beautiful golden cuekon.
larger than any I have seen before, a large blue and
white kinghunter, and found two longicorns quite new
to me. The men are cutting poles for the new liousos.
and the beetles are all to be found on the piles of freslilv
cut poles. According to Selim Mahommed's ordeis,
the Arabs this morning captured Ungungu, the niitive
chief, and put him in chains as hostage, until his people
begin to build tlieir village on this side, and cominenee
a regular market, which they promised to do long aj^o.
The natives, to retaliate, seized one of our men, who
was gathering manioc, thinking he was an Arab.
Uaodi, hearing him scream, ran to his assistance ; bnt
the natives seized him then, letting the first man go, as
they recognized him to be one of ours ; but ]Jaodi they
said was an Arab, and took htm across to the other side
of the river. We at once sent for the chief of the
Arabs, and told him to take Ungungu down to the side
of the river, and make him shout across to his pe(^ple
to let Daodi go. This tliey did, and he was at once
6i ought back across the river and released. The natives
will not willingly interfere with any of our men ; but
they distinguish them with difficulty from the Arabs,
whom they hate, and justly.

Decemher 22nd. — Shot a pair of swallows I have been
after a long, long time. I have never seen more than

DIARY.

171

the pair horo, nnd tlioy nrrivod about a montli nftor wo pj^^'giz.
came; tlicy aro a much hiij^liter blue tluiu any swallows y,,„b„ya^
I iiave ever soon l)(»foro.

JJcceiiihrr 2o;v/. — ()n(» of my men brou^'ht me a very
curious mol(\ Its fur is a beautiful li,u;bt ^roy, which,
ill the sun, has many opal tints. 'I'ho hair is stifi', and
shines exactly like nnplucked otter or beaver. We
are makin<jj jn'oparations for our Christmas dinner,
baittelot and 1 aro contril)utin«j; a tin of flour (our last)
and a tin of jam ; Ward <;ivos a tin of flour, ami Troup
a ham, a bottle of inninos, a tin of marmalade, a bottle
of pickles, and some Kn^j^lish mustard, a thing I have
not tasted since we left the steamer.

Vecemhcr 2Wl — Our Christmas <i;oat was killed at
(layineak, and he is the largest and finest I have
ever seen, and just as good to eat as he looks. AN'ard
and I both made sketches of his Itead. We gave t!ie
men a half-holiday, and shall give them a whole one
to-morrow.

JJccemher 2^)fh. — Christmas Day has come and gone,
and I must say it was a much pleasanter one than I
ever anticipated. Great were our efforts in the cooking
line, and singing after dinner, and I noticed that songs
of a more sober nature than usual, and those which
reminded one of home, were by far the most pojjular.
Troup gave us a beautiful ham, which, with cold mutton
in the morning, made a capital breakfast. For lunch
wo had a meat pudding, consisting of five eggs, parrots
(species unknown, but good), two small doves, and a
chicken (same size), ham finely chopped up, suet and
mutton (Christmas name for goat), onions, pickles, and
a little ^^ orcester sauce ; the whole enveloped in a
blanket of dough and boiled. This pudding was cer-
tainly one of the best I have ever eaten anywhere. We
all took violent walkiim- exercise when the sun sank
low enough to admit of it. Our dinner consisted of
soup, mutton steaks done on the gridiron, a roast log of
mutton which no one tried to eat. reserving themselves

^'fi

f . *

■ >

■f

' 1

■

■, ■ '■ (IB'

■ 1

^ i

1
i

1S«7.
Uao. ar).

Yaiiibii}*.

172

sTonr OF THE ui:ar column.

for tlio puddin*^, whirh wnr, a superb rolly-poly iiukIp
witli raspberry J!un. 'I'lio wliole dinner was an imincusc
suceess, and we jjfave a hearty vote of thanks to W ;ir(I,
who superinten(U'd cverythin*;, and nia(U» l)oth pnddim^s
liiniself 'I'liere were still ai)out two ^hisses of hniudy
left in the two bottles Mr. Stanley left the Major imd
me when he went away, so there was just enou;j;h to
give eaeh of uu a taste after dinner, and I don't tliink a
(hink was ever more appreciatiul. We tried to imikc
tlie day a happy one for the men too, fj;iviu;jj thciii ii
whole holiday and a present of two matakas and twelve
cowries to eaeh man, and three matakas and eii^litcni
cowries to all the muniai)aras; to Assad Faniin we
gave a lot of meat and a cu[)ful of salt, and 1 j^nivo
him and each of the Soudanese officers a jnecc of
tobacco. Mv Christinas cards to the other officers were
u great success, and Ward gave me a bar of soap, which
is simply invaluable. My only pipe was just l)uriit
through, and w liat was my delight when Troup niado
me a ))resent of a new one! We all regretted Mr.
Stanley's party not being with us, and many were our
S]>eculations as to how and where they were spending
their Christmas.

Decfmher 2i\th. — Feasting again to-day, but after that
we shall have to go down to our old rations of rice and
plantains, with an occasional bit of fish, '['here arc
only four boxes of biscuits left to do until we get .to
Zauziliar, so we have determined not to touch thorn
until Mr. Stanley's return. Those four boxes rej)r('sciit
the whole of our bread-stuff for the rest of the Kxpc-
dition, and yet there were over twenty boxes left lying
at Leopoldvillc. (xave the men another holiday to-day.
The chief of Sclim Mahommcd's men here informed nic
that the natives had refused to come over and build a
village, or start a nuirket. I wish they would lea\ e the
natives alone, as we get on perfectly well without any
Arab interference.

December 21th. — Shot a beautiful sparrow or fincli
which I have never seen anywhere except here. Head,

V •*!*■' I

DfAiir.

173

iiijidc

IIK

'iiNC

;inl,

[l(l

lli;s

)i;iii{|v

:iii(|

1-1

liii

k ;i

III

akc

li.'

11 ;i

t\\(

•lv(.

.-III

ceil

;iM

ivo

!'(•('

>^'

iicck, breast, and somo way down tlic hack and sides ar(»
1)1 ii^lit, dark, crimson; all tlic rest of the hird is a hcau-
titiil vclvcty-l)lack. I have seen several of tlieni here,
and shot two, hnt lost theni in tlie lonj^ <j;rass. It has
suddenly dawned upon nn« since that it is ii cardinal
.rnisheak, oidy ii youn«,' hird. Hard at work all day
uritiii;^ ont my hird-notes.

Ihrnnhrr 2^f/i. — 'I'his morninfjj, aliont two or three
o'clock, 1 was wakened ont of a sonnd sleej) hy a fj;reat
vclliii;^ amongst tho Arahs outside the camp. On J^oin;^
(lilt 1 heard h)ud sin«<in<; ]>roceedin}jj from a lar<^e canoe
wliicli was jjfoinfij down the river, on the opposite side,
and it was at this canoe that the yells of the Arahs were
evidently directed. After a time a <j;nn was tired helow
our camp, and then all was still. This morning we
hciud the followinjj; story : — Yesterday the Arahs cap-
tured a lar<^e canoe from a villa|^e down river, and took
it u]) to a small camp they have formed just ahove us.
Tliis mornin<? at ahout three o'clock, when the mo<m
was shining hri«j;htly, some natives came up from the
village in a canoe and surprised the Arahs who were
asleep in the captured canoe, and who were supposed
to he guarding it. According to one version of the tale,
there were five men in the canoe, of whom three
escaped without wounds, one escaped badly stabbed,
and the fifth was killed or taken captive by the natives.
The other account said there were three men in the
canoe, of whom one was taken prisoner, the second
stabbed, and the third killed. Both stories agree on
one point, that the natives captured four guns. The
Arab chief came and asked if we could do anything for
the wounded man, so Bonny went up after breakfast,
and found him lying with a very severe cut in the
stomach, through which about four yards of the intes-
tines were ])rotruding. He had received two other bad
stabs on the left side. Bonny succeeded in sewing
up the cuts, but as the man was bleeding internally I
don't think there is a chance of his living. How he
ever succeeded in escaping by swimming after receiving

n.o. '.7.

Vuiiibuyik,

> >

I i»i-

1887.
Dec. 28.

Yambuya.

174

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

I i'

such wounds, and still to bo alive, is a perfect marvel
to me, but I can believe anything respecting tlie ro-
covery of these men, after seeing the recovery of the
last man that Bonny sewed up. Khamis, Jephson's
boy, who was left behind sick, when Stanley went a^\ av,
died to-day. He has been nothing but a living skeleton
for the last four months, and it is a wonder that lie has
lived so long. This makes the thirty-ninth deatli in
camp.

Decemher 2^fh. — Another of the little boys, Aljadi,
died to-day. He and Khamis lived in a house mo
had built specially for them, and they have both been
ill ever since last June. Curiously enough, I said to
the Major last night, " You will see that Ahadi will die
almost immediately, for I have always noticed that
wliere there aro two people togetlier, who have both
been ill for a long time, when one dies the other is
almost sure to follow." I hear that the natives from
down river have captured four more Arabs, and tlie
chief came to-day to know if we would help them to
attack the natives, but if thev choose to slave-hunt,
I do not see that we have uusthing to do with it.
The man that Bonny sewed up yesterday died to-day ;
the marvel is that he lived so Ions In the eveninir
I took a walk through the manioc plantations, and suc-
ceeded in obtaining one of the large swifts which I may
say I have been after for months. I have fired at tliem
several times, but they fly at such a height that I have
to use very large sliot, and this, combined with tlicir
very swift flight, makes it difficult to shoot them.

Decemher '6{)fh. — This morning we heard three shots
fired in (piick succession, just above the camp, and
saw a canoe rapidly paddling across to the other side
witli a few. natives in it. When half-way across a
number of canoes came to meet them from the opposite
bank, and we saw^ a man lifted out of the first canoe
and placed in one of the others, when they all returned
to the village. Presently some of the Arabs from up
river arrived and told us what had happened. It seems

that the

l<no^v aiy

replied, i

them," ii]

canoe, kd

Aral)s th

Major sta

to see w

befove

prisoner.

sorted, b
Ungungi
had gout
and Nvou
that if t
and get
not aire J-
covered
was that
AhduUa
stick am

Vecen
we are
have be
spent ai
end. li
the sec<
has reti
has got
let us
"Major
camp,
go on
so thai
chance
it not
which
siiouh
summ

DIARY.

175

; I

that the Arabs asked some natives in a canoe if they
knew anything abont the fonr missin*]: men. They
R'jiHed, in a jeering tone, " Oh, we have made sonp of
tlu'in," upon which tlie Arabs at once fired into tlie
caii'ie, killing one mari and wounding another. The
Arabs then all went to the village down river. The
Major started off' after lunch with two of the Soudanese
to see what had happened, but he had not gone far
before he met the Arabs returning with one native
prisoner. They said they had found the village de-
serted, but had captured this man, who told them that
Un^ungu (after having been released by the Arabs)
had gone down there and captured three of their men,
and wounded the fourth. The INIajor told the Arabs
that if they would leave Ungungu alone, he would try
and get him over here, and recover the men, if they were
not already eaten. This morning a dead body was dis-
covered in the river close in to the bank of our camp ; it
was that of one of Tippu-Tib's men who was with Sheik
Al)dullah a long way up this river. He was tied to a
stick and was horribly wounded.

December ?jlst. — 1887 passes away to-night, and here
we are still in Yambuya Camp. The last six months
have been the most miserable and useless I have ever
spent anpvhere, and goodness knows when it is going to
end. liarttelot means to go to Stanley Falls at the end of
the second week in January (if ho hears that Tippu-Tib
has returned from Kassongo), and ask him finally if he
has got all the men for us, and if not, how many he can
let us have. If he can give us a hundred men, the
Major will then start with them and the fittest men in
camp, leaving two white officers in charge here, and
go on Stanley's route to find out what he is doing;
so that, whether ]Mr. Stanley returns or not, there is a
chance of our making some kind of move at last. Had
it not been for odd little bits of collecting and drawing,
which filled up a lot of my time, I think I certainly
should have become an idiot here. None of us can
summon up interest enough to sit up and see the old

1887.
Dec. 30.

Yambuya,

VNMKl''

! I

) .>,

']\\

176

STORY OF TUK REAR COLUMN,

ji^'kx y^^^ "^^^' ^^^^ ^^^^ ^'^^^ y^^^^ "^' ^"^^ ^ mnst say tlipre

Y»mbuya ^^ ^'^'O' li^tlo illdlicomcilt tO (lo SO. Wc lliul a <rr(.;it

number of ripe ])lantains, so we cletermined lo make
some ])laiitain beer or malafii. The only vessel l;(i<r(>
enon<j^li for tlio purpose was my bath, which is a Iar<re
zinc-liued ])isouit-b()x, so we made it in that, ])ut no
one lias liad tlie eoura^ije to drink it yet. This finishes
this book, and my diary for the old year, 1887.

•H i

.^.ys

New Year
.lanit's
i lisped
Farrar
— Dea
camp,
with i^
death
.selves
weddi
Nativ

Jannan
Year wi
We mti
every r
dinner,
one of
rolly-pc

( 177 )

Mr. Jameson, duawn by II. Waed,

MUj

I' ^ I

CHAPTER VI.

1888. — Januatiy 1st to Fkhruahy ISttt.

New Ypat's Day. — Natives roturn witli captured Arab. — Barttelot and
JaniLMiin liavo palaver with natives. — Natives consult the oracles and
inspect white men. — More njports from Stiinley's deserters. — Assad
Farran sees a whale. — Visit from Arab Venuses. — ISoharus Pcf/t/d beetle.
— Dead bodies iloatin;^ down river. — Wretched Btate of Zanzibaris in
camp. — One iit'th of entire force lost. — Goliath beetle. — Conversation
Avith Selim Mahomnied. — I'robablti dangers to Mr. Stanley's force froin
deatli and desertion. — Arabs attack natives. — Arabs fight amor)g them-
selves.— Natives steal canoes from Arabs. — Anniversary of .Jameson's
wedding. — More raids on the natives. — -Hurgari Mahommed at large. — ■
Natives eat captured Arabs. — Burgari captured, and shot.

January \st^ 1888, Sunday. — AVe have begun the New issB.
Year with one of the finest day.s I think I have ever seen. '^"•"- 1-
Wo made a mihl attempt at feastin«i;, having meat at Yambuya.
overy meal, prunes at hmcheon, and a rolly-poly at
dinner. Trou]) presented the mess with a tin of flour,
one of jam, and one of prunes. I am sorry to say the
rolly-poly was not quite such a success as tlie last^ for

1 ■
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ft-

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178

STORY OF 77//; REAR COLUMN.

lH8ft.
Jan. I.

Yambuya.

the fiour was a trifle musty, but I noticod that wo ate
quite as mucli of it, noue tlie less. I liad just sat down
to skiu some birds tliis moruiug, when the natives
arrived opposite to tlie camp in a canoe, with one of
Tippu-Tib's captured peoi)lc in it. They said that if
one of us white men would come over to their villa«fo.
and hold a palaver witli them, tliey would hand over
the three men and the *;uns to us. Major Barttclot
then sent for the Arab head-man and told him that.
if he would allow the natives to fish in j>eace, and
promise not to molest them in any way, he would
get the men back. He afrrced to this. The natives then
asked for a white man to go to a landing-place liii^hor
up tlie river, without any of the Arabs, as they wanted
to speak to us. Major Barttelot and I went up the
river, and after waiting some time, a canoe arrived with
some natives in it, and one of the captives with his
arms bound. At first they were in a great fright about
coming near the shore, but eventually did so, and told
us that all their chiefs were up the river, but that if we
■would come to the same place to-morrow mornino:
early, they would bring a large canoe to take us over to
the other side, as the chiefs would then have arrived,
We told them we would be there, and left, after buy-
ing some fish from them. I am sure that althou<,di
we may obtain for the natives a short time of peace, the
Arabs will have a terrible day of reckoning with them
when we leave.

Janucmj 2nd. — Spent a most interesting forenoon.
The ^lajor and I started after breakfast up the river
to wait for the canoe to take us across to the native
village for the big palaver about their Arab prisoners.
After waiting quite half-an-hour, two natives came
across in an old canoe with one end broken, and in a
shocking condition, so we told them they must get
another. This one arrived in an equally broken-down
state; the nose being smashed off, the smallest Avavescame
in, and a hole was in the side, over which one native had
to hold his hand in order to prevent the canoe from

I a

• .1-.:

(t;

»•

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il '

|;'i

I f

if .1

m\H

luund a sn

(U'iUi, Jiiid

a irv(>at c

The men :

spears. I

of voices,

the two ]v

hern eate

Avirli a loi;

or " Tukii

tion of till

When he

Major 15a

remaiiiiiifj

(juarantec

remaiiied

there was

consult tl:

authority,

exactly li

the other

havin<>; oi

ground, ;

nati\e, oi

craft in h

of my bo]

him as ai

short thi(

to his fac

friendshi

upon it,

up the st

the dried

whilst h(

time, re]

sliort 3ti(

mouth, 1

the " car

back. I

DIARY,

181

filliiii,'. Into tliis one wc fjjot, and crossed over. We
tuuiul a small piece of ground, under some tn^es, swe})t
cli'iui, and they l)ron«i^]it us stools to sit on. Presently
a tireat crowd collected, men, women, and children.
The men nearly all had their knives, and a «^ood many,
spears. After waitin«i; some time amidst a perfect habel
of voices, a chief arrived with his face all blackened ;
the two prisoners (one of the three havinjj; escaped, or
hcen eaten) beinj;- also present. lie opened the ball
Avirh a l()n<^ speecli about friendliness to the white men,
or " Tuku-Tukus " as tliey call us. This name is an imita-
tion of the puffin«jj of the steamer in which we arrived.
AVhon he had finished, and silence was again restored,
Major Barttelot told them that, if they gave up the two
remaining prisoners and the three guns to us, he woidd
<riiarantee tliat they would be left in peace as long as he
remained here. Tliis having been translated to them,
there was more noise, and the chief finally retired to
consult the oracles. After some time a man, evidently of
authority, arrived with two sticks, one with what looked
exactly like a bunch of small carrots tied on to the end,
the other a short thick (me tied up in dried palm leaves,
having one end bare. These he solemnly placed on the
ground, and informed us that any man, white, black,
nati\ e, or Arab, who looked upon them, and had witch-
craft in him, would die. They did not like the presence
of my boy Farani, whom Tippu-Tib gave me, recognizing
liim as an Arab at once, so they gave him first of all the
short thick stick, which he had to hold in his hand close
to his face, and look at the bare end, whilst he swore
friendship towards them, and finally he had to blow
upon it, which was the great test. Next he had to take
up the stick with the " carrots " (which I noticed were
the dried seed-pods of some plant like a pop]iy), and
whilst he chip])ed it with his knife, looking at it all the
time, repeat the same oath. The chief then took the
sliort stick, and holding it in turn to his eyes, ears, and
mouth, blew across it on to him ; then, taking one of
the " carrots," passed it in a circle round his chest and
back. As Farani did not die during the process, they

1HS«.
Jan. 2.

Vulubuyu

i-^i*

I, '
111,

♦ t

iM^^H-r

:i I'i

^..i

■

i
\

Jan. 2.

Tanibuya.

Jl:

I: !i I

182

STOnr OF THE RKAK COLL'MN.

considered it all rijifht. The chief then informed us that
the guns were jnvay at another place up the river, tlmt
to-day they woidd hand over to us one of the ])ris()iu'rs.
and to-morrow the otluM- man and three guns. \\(>
said we would agree to this, and the palaver ended,
the chief walking off solemnly with his mecHciiie
sticks. We liad to undergo a general inspection hctoic
getting into the canoes, and two natives, much li<i:liter
coloured than the rest, and who, as they infornied us,
came from a country far away to the north, wIkmc all
th(! people were being killed, and who had never sct'ii
wliite men before, had a very close inspection of us.
They wanted tlie Major to open his collar, and let tlu'in
see if he was the same as other people inside it. Duriu;;
the long pause, whilst they were c(msulting the onulo,
they asked Farani what was inside my tobacco-box, and
when told, expressed a wish to see me smoke, so to
oblige them I filled my pipe, and lit it with a flint aud
steel. There was breathless silence during the per-
formance, but when I lit my fuse with the flint and
steel, they could contain themselves no longer, and hurst
out into loud expressions of astonishment. My umbrella
and its uses were next explained to them, and im-
mensely admired. My rings were also a source of
interest, but I am sorry to say were considered to be
brass, like their own bracelets. One native noticed the
point of Farani's revolver sticking out from under his
coat, and remonstrated with him on the subject. Taking
Farani's hand in his, he closed it, then opening it, he
swept his hand across the open palm, saying, " AMiy do
you come with your hands closed — not open as they
ought to be X " meaning why had he concealed weapons
about him. I too had a very good revolver with mo,
but as it was inside the large breast-pocket of my coat.
thev did not see it. We finally got back to cami), with
the released prisoner, after 12 o'clock, quite tired out
by the noise, smell, and heat, for these natives are any-
thing but savoury. A heavy thunderstorm came on
after lunch, and it rained nearly all the afternoon, so I
made a sketch of a goat's head, which died this morning,

DlAUr.

183

and we distributed the meat amonjj:st the mnniaparas J^^^.\^
and tlic Soudanese officers, tlie cook and our hoys also Yainbuya
ijcttin*^ a hit. This is tlie first real rain we have had
tor over a month, and the river has never been so low
since we have been here. I am afraid, with the retmn
of tlie wet and cold, some more of the men will die.

Jainiarf/ o;v/. — Went for a stroll with Ward this
moniin*; up the river, he doin«jf a little sketchiufjj, and
1 a little collecting. I shot a hornbill, which turned
out to be too young to be of any use, and amongst
otlicr birds a very handsome one, of which 1 do not
know the name, and which I have often tried to shoot
hciore, but they have always been too high. I also got
the most peculiar caterpillar I have ever seen. I made
a couple of drawings of it, which fail to do it justice,
and then deposited it, with all the other curious
beetles, spiders, bees, bugs, ike, in my silver flask full of
si)irits of wine. The natives did not fulfil their promise
to-day of bringing over the other prisoner and the three
iruns, so Major Barttelot told the Arab head-man that
he ought to send them a message to-morrow, and, if
they did not give them up, he was to take his own way of
getting them.

Not a word of news of any kind about Mr. Stanley.
If we do not hear of him soon now, it will look serious.

Jannar/j 4:f;h. — The three men who were sent up to
A.bdullah's camp to try and buy fowls returned with
four. Some of the reports we receive about Mr. Stanley
are certainly very curious. These men say that, wlien
they reached Abdullah's camp, some natives had just
arrived there, who said that they had seen Mr. Stanley
four davs' march from there, still on his wav to the
iiake. Bonny has been cross-examining some of the
deserters from Stanley with the following result : — They
were two months and a half with him before they
deserted. They do not know of any otlier deserters
besides themselves, e.\ce]}t Msa and three others who
left "yvith them, but wlio have never been heard of since.
The loason they gave for leaving was that they were

wiliiii.

'WW

I'l

184

STORY OF Tllh: UK A It COLUMN.

.Tun. 4,
Yambuyii.

■111

biully troatcd silxjiit food. Altlioufjjh tl»cr(» was ])1(mUv
of iiiiiiiioc (iiiul plantiiins) on tlic road, Mr. Stanley would
not allow thrin to take it, and in f ict often took niaiiiof
from them. The conntry hecanu' very hilly, witli
([uantities of water. 'I'he boat was always k(»])t upon
tiie main river, the ])arty ^oin^ hy land; when tlicv
came to an nnfordabh* stream thev hiid frefinentlv to m)
a lonjif distance np it before they reached a village where
they (tonld ])rocnre canoes to cross in. At one of tliese
villa«i^es they were fiefhtin<ij for three days. Tliis is
where Nelson was wounded, and two men kilhnl, besides
some wounded. Just before loavin*]; Stanley, tlu^y luul
passed through a place where there were fifty of 'rippii.
Tib's people. 'J'he natives used bows and arrows witli
iron heads. There Avas ])lcnty of food all alon^ tlie
road, but the natives, on their a])proac]i, removed nil
their fowls and goats into the bush. They were li")
days coming down the river from where they left
Mr. Stanley, to Abdullah's cam}). — AVent for a stroll
downi the river with AVard tliis morning, but shot
notliing. "We both got a sketch of the ra])ids, and a
reneral view of the river, looking up it. Took out my
gun in the evening, but unfortunately lost two very good
birds in the thick bush, after shooting them. Painted
some birds in the afternoon.

January hth. — Yesterday the natives sent over the
remaining prisoner, but no guns were given up. The
men who came ])ack from Al)dullah's camp said that
Ungungu, tlie native cliief, had passed up the riv(M'
vitli several canoes, and seven guns 'vvhicli he liad
taken from the Arabs. They were looking for a ninv
place in which to make a village. The Arabs were
going to let them settle, tlien surround them, and take
Ungungu, and as many of them as tliey could. It is
now evident tlmt it was Ungungu who stabbed the Arabs
in the canoe, and took tlieir guns, and not the native,*
from down river. The Major had just dictated a letter v>
Assad Farran, to be put into Arabic, and sent to Selim
Mahomined, asking him to get us goats and fowls, and

Janiiai

loturned

Abdullah

Avomen v

captured.

arcompai

It was vc

day hea\

ending i

been vei

had to li

cleaning

seenery,

tlie cam

and are

iisli sup]

afraid t<

returnee

JdiiiK
of Van;
tricts, 5
nearly i
two go
told us

DrAIlT.

185

to let US know tlio oxart dato of Tippn-Til/s return
tKHii KassoMf^o, \\\\v\\ two of liis iruMi arrived, and told
us tlii.t he was on his way to onr cani]), and wonld he
jitMC in three days, l)rin;j^in<^ with liiin fowls, floats,
|)()tatnes, and rice. They hron<jjht ns six heantiftd pine-
jipjilcs, and two fowls. 'i'h(^ i)ine-a])i)les were simply
(Idicions. I spent most of the day in makinij: a sketcli
in Itlack and white of the view I took of the river
v('st( rday. liast ni^ht I was wakened ont of my sleep
i)V a irun bein<jf fired off in the Arab camp, and then 1
lu'iird them all \i\\g chase to something:. Their cries
iind shonts to one another were exactly like a pack of
hounds fjfivin^ ton«j;ne. I ])elieve one of their native
prisoners escai)ed, althongh of course they denied it
this niorninj^.

Jaminry Ctth. — Just after lunch to-day, the Arabs
returned from a slave-raidin«j^ expedition })eyond
Abdullah's camp, up river, brinij^infj: with them three
women with babies and two children, whom they iiad
raptured. We had one of the first rain-st(n'ms nn-
arcompanied by thunder that I have seen in this country.
It was very cold and cloudy all forerioon, and after mid-
day heavy clouds drifted up with a westerly bree/e,
('ii(lin<ij in a storm of wind and rain, liarttelot has
l)oon very seedy for the last three or four days, and
liad to lie in bed most of to-day. I had a ijjreat day,
clcaiiinfi: up all my wea])ons, and finishinuj sketches of
sfTuery, birds, beetles, »Scc. Saw four lar<;-e ducks ])ass
the camp to-day; they looked to me like wild muscovy,
and are the first 1 have seen on this river. I fear our
iisli supply is over for the present, for tlie natives are
afraid to come over to this side, as thev have not vot
returned the guns to the Arabs.

January 1th. — This morning Nasibu, the Arab chief
of Vambau, Yalisula, and all the surrounding dis-
tricts, arrived, bringing us a present of a goat, and
nearly a sackful of beautiful fresli rice. We bought
two goats from the Arabs who came with him. Mg
told us that news of jMr. Stanley had been brought by

Jan. f).
Vinubuju.

„^

I ,

■

1
1

■

)

[

, . r
^ ■ 1 •

i;,

180

KTonv f)F Tiih: jU':ah column.

Yninbuyu

il,l

I ill

i««H. natives to Ahdiilbili's cfimp up th(» river, jiccoKiiii^f to
■''"'■ ^" wliicii Aixlulliili had fjjoiu^ witli his iiien after Staiilcv,
and liad eau^lit liim up, assistinj^ him in his fi<^hts wiili
tlu^ natives. Al)(lnllali had remained at l'|)i to t'oriu u
lar^(! camp and rnid for ivory. 'I'liis ))hi(:e is only
si\te(Mi (hiys' march from Stanley Falls, so that Stanley

list have l)een travellinj^' v(M ..lowly. Nasil)n is i^

MHU

Tip to Ah(hilhih's camp to-morrow, when hv. says lie will
be able t()«^ive us more definite information. ri])pu-'I'il)
is still at Kass()n«>;o, but will return next month. 'I'licy
say \n' is brin^in*'' a «;T(>at many peojde for us, and is

ranfjjin<^ for canoes in which to conv(;y them. Scl

Mahommed is at Yamban, onc^ day's march from licic.
I had a very busy day, be^inninjjj by shootini^ a small
finch wlii(di I wished to draw, but on my way i)!i(k to
camp with it I ])asse(l a tree covered witli lovely
blossoms whicli I had often longed to })aint, but was
afraid to try, ns I am no i^ood at flower-i)aintini>'; in

'J'

fact, I never tried it before 1 came here, llowexci', 1
got some cut down, and set to work, and 1 think tlie
result is a success. I was just finisliing the leaves when

i '

DlAliY.

187

Hoiiiiy broil*,'])! nir in w hr'aiitifiil lizard, \vliifli I at,

niicc paiiitrd, as I atn certain its coiniirs will fade unless

|,iit into spirits. Assad l*'arran came t«> ?ne this inoriiinij;,

and told nn- that a curious heast, which ln' was sure was

ii ir/i((/(\ habitually caine out of the water near our

two canoes, and fed on the j^rass on the hank, i)iit dis-

;i|i|({ared hack into the water on the aj)j>roach ot' any

(.lie. Me said the sentry over the (;anoes constantly

sjiu it, and on my iii(|iiirin«;; if he was certain that it

was a whale, said, "Oh yes! it is somethiui; like tin;

sliape ot" a cro{;odile ; 1 am sure it is a whale." [

itiia;,Miie the animal to he an i«^uana ; however, ho is to

let me know the next time it is visible, for me to shoot

it. .Inst after Nasibii arrived, tlie Aral)s who are at this

(ainj) fired on a canoe full of natives, ami killed several

of them, so there is little hope of our «^ettin<^ any more

fish.

.lull. 7.
Viinibiija,

' ffn

JdnKfO'i/ 9>fJt^ SidhJcu/. — Nasibn came down to-day,
but could <j;ive us no more infoimation than yesterday.
He s|)ok(? of a curious tribe of natives who live near
I 'pi, the women of which, instead of wearin*^ the
usual small aj)ron of a few s(piare inches, and a dress-

Hiiprover not much lar<i;er, wear two ])an's ot livni

f li

f'oW

s, one ])air as an apron, ttie otlier as tlio dress-

)th

iiri|)rover. AV'hen the fowls die, they are thrown away,
iiiul fresh ones substituted; they are only used for this
j)ur|)ose, and not for food. He told us that som(? of the
!.i<,dits of his Ilarem had never seen white men, and
had expressed tin* wish to corner down and visit us,
especially a woman who came from Upi. \\v told him
we were ([uite willin*i; to be inspected, and shortly after
his departure a man came down in char«>j(? of four black
Veiiuses, evidentlv in their Sundav best. Two of their
names were translated as " Su«^ar-stick " and " Finish
Kvervthin":." "When asked to be seated, thev all sat
down in a body on my ])0()r camp-bed ; but luckily, just

IS It was ij^omj.^ smasli, they ^ot up and (hsperset

1 (li

lady from Upi was c(>rfainly the best-lookin<^ of the lot,
but the gilt of civilization sat very li<ihtly upon her.

188

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN,

A r

Jan. 8.
i'ambuya.

i ' I

1 ,

.;:|

1 ;'

i >

We presented each with a few matakas, and they wont
away evidently much pk\ased with tlieir visit. Nnsihu
says that tlie natives liere liave no religion of any son,
and consequently no worship, even of fetishes, but tlicv
have a firm belief that, when tliey die, they will come to
life again. They affirm, however, that we must come
from heaven, for all people are white there. Anotlicr
"of the men who came up from Bolobo died to-day,
making forty-one deaths in camp since we arrived, and
I hear another of the Soudanese is dying.

January Qfh. — Selim Mahommed arrived to-day, and
brought no end of presents with him, giving mo
a very good ivory-handled knife, manufactured at tho
Falls ; to the Major and myself jointly a small bag of
candied sugar, which is a great luxury, as I have not
tasted sugar now for over seven months, a box of v(Mmi-
celli, and a small sack of coffee-beans ; and a fowl to
Ward. He brought me, as a present from Tip})u-'rib,
a splendid big goat. My boy Farani also gave me a \cvy
good spear, so the day seemed like a birthday. Selim
told us that they had not heard from Tippu-Tib since
he went to Kassongo, but that he was expected back at
the Falls by the 12th February. He said that the men
coming from Kassongo could only arrive slowly in
small detachments, as the Congo is now very low, and
they have to travel in very small canoes. He lias had
no news of Stanley later than that brought by tho
deserters, and he does not believe in the statement tlnit
Abdullah had caught liim up, and fought the natives
■with him. Selim's intention is to make treaties of
peace, and trade with all the natives round here, and not
punish Ungungu, as it was wrong in tlie first place for
his head-man to have tied him up. One of the lioiul
Arabs at Stanley Falls, called Nasoro, fired off the big
rifle I gave to Tip])u-Tib, but came to grief in doing so.
He knelt down, imagining it to be tlie safest plan, but
it kicked liim liglit over on to his back. Tippu told
Selim iVfahommed, wlien lie left for Kassongo, to tin>
the rifle, but he said that, after hearing of Nasoro's

Jan

to me
when,
my he
in the
hiid h
which

If:,

DIARY. ISO

misliap, he thoiif^fht it wiser to leave it alone ! Tliis
afternoon I took a \o\\\* walk, and shot a beantiful
warl)k'i', that I have never seen before, and one of the
hliick shrikes, which, althougli only abont the size of
blackbirds, look as big as crows, owinu; to the effect of
the masses of black, Unffy feathers with which they are
covered. I stood and listened to the warbler singing
for a long time before I noticed that lie was a new one
to me, and then, alas ! he also had to die !

January 10^//. — Major Barttelot sent for Selim
Maliommed this morning, and asked him to tell the
plain truth as to whether we were l^k<'ly to receive
the men promised by Tippu-Tib or not. Selim answei'ed
that he could not read Tippu's heart, but he believed
we should get the men, and that Tippu himself would
return to Stanley Falls on the fifteenth of next month,
when he expected to have 200 men there from Kassongo.
It was very difficult, he added, to get the men to carry
loads, so they were told that they were reqidred here to
fight the natives. The Major asked him why, in the first
place, we did not get the men who were on the Lumami
River. He said (as Farran translated it) there were
murmurs amongst them, which I suppose sim])ly meant
that they flatly refused to carry loads. The Major then
asked if there was any personal feeling of dislike to
himself in the matter, and Selim said there was none.
I am afraid that if we do get the men from Tippu-Tib,
once they discover that they have been taken in, we
shall be unable to do anything with them. Selim told
the Major that there were two more deserters from
Mr. Stanley at Abdullah's camp, besides the man who
led him to the place where the ivory was.

January Wth. — A most unpleasant accident happened
to me last night. I was in the midst of pleasant dreams,
when, with a crash, my bed broke down, and I fell with
my head and shoulders on to the ground, and my feet
in the air. I put my hands out to see what on earth
had happened, when they met with the mosquito curtain,
which I found all round me, and at once commenced to

1888.
Jan. &.

Yambuja.

i , Ik

1SS8.
Jan. 11.

Xambuja.

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190

SrORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

striip^gle witli. Luckily I realized what had hapj^onod
before I liad torn the curtain too badly, and 1 fixed
the whole thin<ij up somehow, but for the rest of the
nijjjht had to sleep with my heels in the air, and inv
head almost on the ground. It is a curious thin<r v,],jj'(
an amount of thou<jjht goes through one's brain in a
second of time wlien one is asleep. I remember per-
fectly well that my last dreaming thoughts were of b(>iii(r
in a chair which kept tilting over backwards, and vet,
from the manner in which the bed was broken, it must
have happened instantaneously. One thing is certain,
however : the next time we receive the Lights of any
one's Harem, they will not sit on my bed ! Spent most
of the day in skinning birds and painting. A boy camp
in the evening from Nasibu's camp, which is about an
hour from here, and told me that Nasibu had a full-
grown antelope, with horns, for me, and wanted two
men sent out to bring it in. When it anived we untied
its legs, and put it in my house on some grass ; it then
appeared to be all right, but on coming out from dinner
we found it dead, vrhich is a great pity, as I wished to
sketch it before killing it. Unfortunately it has only
one horn, having evidently lost the other in the wars.
Just as I was going for a stroll with my gun, I met one
of my sick men, who presented me with a Boo-lJoo^ as
they call every species of fly, beetle, bug, or any other
insect. This one was wrapped up in a leaf, and turned
out to be a beautiful longicorn beetle, which figures in
Herr Pogge's book, and I have only seen one other
specimen of it here. This was Ward's birthday, so we
had quite a feast at dinner, soup and grilled meat, topped
up with the best rolly-poly we have had yet, made
wdth some flour Ave had over from Christmas Day, and
a pot of gooseberry jam.. Unfortunately Bonny was
feeling very seedy, and had to go to bed before dinner.

January 12th. — It was so hot that I had to skin
the antelope, fearing the meat would go, and I liiul
not time to get much of a sketch, even of the head.
Nasibu told me he thought this one was about eight or

DIARY.

191

nino months old, that a full-pjrown ono was not mucli
larger, and liad straiglit horns about ei<i;ht or nine inches
l()iii>'. lie has promised to ^et me a full-^'own one, as
I have never seen any like it. It is certainly different
from any of the Sontli-African antelones that I knoAv of.
\\q cut up and iijrillcd one of the liind legs, and made
soup of some of the meat f(3r dinner, and it "was excel-
lent. To-day was one of the hottest days we have liad
vet. Tlie thermometer went up to 130° in the sun, and
then I took it in, as it only measures 145°, and I feared
it would burst. It stood at 89° in the shade. All the
(lopvcs of heat in the shade are taken in my house,
which is the coolest spot in camp, as it is open
at both ends, so that every breeze blows riglit
through it. An Arab who came in on his way to
Stanley Falls says that Abdullah has gone back to his
camp beyond Upi, and that the two last deserters from
Stanley are there, sick, eight men having deserted at tlie
same time, when six died, or were killed. I am thankful
to say that I have not had a single day in this camp
with nothing to do, except when I have been ill.

January IWi. — Stretched the antelope skin this
morning, and finished the drawing of its head. In
the afternoon made a sketch of the Sohariis Pofifiei
beetle, which I find is far from correctly drawn in the
plates in his book. Another of the men who came up
from Bolobo died to-day, making the 42nd death in camp.
Some of the Soudanese are in a wretched condition, a nd
will, I fear, die very soon. Nasibu paid us anotlier visit
to-day. He is certainly one of the nicest of all tlie
Arabs, and quite the most straightforward. As a rule,
when they have not much to say their conversation is a
tissue of lies, made up of information which they think
will please you. Salem Masudi was one of these men,
who, rather than say rothing, told a lie.

January \ith. — Spent most of the day in making
coloured drawings of some of the native pottery.
The designs are occasionally very beautiful, and would
be still better, if they were left without the small cross

1R88.
Jan. 12.

Yiimbuya

■'ll

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I,;
1

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1
1

192

STORY OF THE HEAR COLUMN.

188«.
Jan. 14.

Vanibuyo.

I ii

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W^^

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tin

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III

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strokes with which they arc covered. The pots are jet-
black wlieii new, and the designs are coloured by rubl)iii(r
cam-wood into all the sunken lines. The forms of some
of their vase-shaped pottery, used for carrying water
or palm-oil, arc very fine. Dead bodies of natives and
Manyema men are constantly cauglit by the trees which
have fallen into the river from the bank below our
cam}). Yesterday there was one, and again to-dav. a
most loathsome object to be seen — a woman witli her
throat cut in such a way that the head was almost
severed from the body. A rope was tied round her
wrist, and the sight was rendered more horrible from
portions of the skin having come off the face, breasts.
and other ])arts of the body in large patches. I beli(>ve
the Arabs living at Abdullah's old camp up the river
had a fight to-day with the natives on some islands
above the rapids, killing eight or nine of them, and
capturing over twenty women. When AVard was at
Stanley Falls the last time, llachid, the Arab chief on
the Lumami River, promised to send him some knives
and spears from there, and to-day they arrived. Tliev
are quite the finest I have ever seen. He was kind
enough to make me a present of one of the spears and
a knife, which were very acceptable, as I have uotliing
whatever to buy anything with.

January l^th, Sunday . — Dhuma Bisalum, one of my
men, died to-day, making the 43rd death in camp. He
has been in a sort of decline ever since arriving here,
and for the last two or three months has been merely an
animated skeleton. In the morning I shot a couple of
swifts, and a very beautiful swallow. Made a sketch of
the large native knife sent by Rachid to Ward, A
hippo passed down the river to-day in front of the camp.
It was the first I had seen, although there are a good
many tracks of them between this and Abdullah's camp.
Gave the men a whole holiday.

January 16^//. — We had a hot sun, and I got all my
skins dried. Took a long walk in the evening with my
gun, but only succeeded in shooting one big pigeon.

'^1

DiAJtr.

193

JaniKirji \lth. — TTad a groat sliro of luck in tlio
^viiv ot c()lkH;tiii<j; to-day. Attor lircakfast, ^^'al^l and
I stinted on a b()tani/in«i^ oxpodition, and I took my
<nni. Jnst opposite the jjjraveyard, 1 noticed a small
bird dart into a tree. 1 said to ^^'ard, " J must «i;et a
shot at that bird ; it's a new one." ^^'e lost si^ht ol' it
for some time, hut luckily I stood still, and ])resently I
siiw it throu<>h the branches and fired, when to my
surprise I saw two birds fall, and found 1 had shot a
pair, both cock and hen. They tiu'ned out to be the
most l)eautiful sunbirds I have ever seen, and ([uite
(liffVnMit from any I know of. There is a liummin<jj-
l)ir(l in Gould's collection, as far as I remember, exactly
like them. We got a number of botanical s])e('imens,
but unfortunately did not press them sufficiently, and
had to throw the whole lot away.

Jdnnary ISfh. — Saw the natives catch two very large
fisli to-day, in nets just below the camp ; one of
thorn must have weighed from 40 to oO lbs. Jnst
as I got into my bath this afternoon, I saw a snake
climbing u\> the end of the house, and ])resently he pio-
cocded to come inside through the sticks. I jum])ed
out, seized Barttelot's stick, and gave him what I
tliought was a nasty jar, but he wriggled over the toji of
tho boxes, and disappeared. I had just got into my
tub again, when I saw him going along where the ro )f
joins the wall. Went at him and gave him a knock,
upon Avhich he fell at the back of the boxes, and I saw
him no more, although I hunted everywhere for him.
This lif is becoming tedious and monot )nous beyond
measure, and God knows when and how it will end !

January Idfh. — Made a sketch of five spears used
by the natives on this river. Some of them are very
handsome, the blades ornamented by cam-wood being
rubbed into the deep lines graved on them. One of
them, belonging to Bonny, has a blade 28^ inches long,
and is quite the finest I have seen anywhere. One of
my men brought me a most extraordinary caterpillar.
It has two long horns of lovely silky hair, black and

1S88.
Jan. 17.

Yauibuya

iii

f 1

jj Iflli'

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194

STOUY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

•I ■;

1S88.
Jan. 10.

Yumbuyii.

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white, and a tail of ]>uro white spun silk. Its hnclv is
a \'\v\\ velvety dark olive-hrown, barred with yellowish-
creamy white, like satin, and the sides are pure
snowy white, shininij^ like tlie richest silk. 'J'lie head
is ochre and peifectly bare like a skull, with jet-Mack
eves. Another man broufi^ht me a very fine specimon
of tlie leaf-insect. One of the Soudanese is dead. 1I(>
has l()n<if been ill Avith dysenter\, and was re])()rted dinid
a fortni<;lit ai>(). This is the 44th deatli in camp.

Jdiiudvt/ 2()tii. — Anotlierof theZanzil)a;ris from liolubi)
died to-day. A cold wet day or niglit is almost siuo
to be followed by the death of one or more of tlioso
wretched men, who are sim])ly livini*- skeletons. 'Hiov
are nearly all witliout blaidvets or clotliini;' of any kind
whatever cxce])t a ra«>-*»-ed piece of cotton, or native
cloth, round the loins, and having no flesh on their
bones, the cold kills tliem at once. We have now lost
a fifth of the entire force in camp. I find it ahnost
impos.sible to })aint the leaf-insect, on account of the
marbled veining and the thousand shades of c()h)iir
which render it so beautiful. This evening I sliot
anotlier new sunbird, if possible more brilliauth-
coloured than the last. Throat rich grey, fading into
brii»-ht metallic meen on the breast, succeeded bv a bar
of orange, merging into grey on the belly, wdiich in its
turn changes into lemon-yellow on the vent. It has
a tuft of bright lemon-yellow feathers on each side of
the breast, which project over the shoulder of the wings.
The head and back are a metallic green, and the wings
ar<^ a beautiful mixture of dark olive and lighter greens.
It is a remarkably small sunbird, and the first that I
have seen of the kind. Unfortunately the hen flew away
when I shot this one, and although I waited a long
time did not return.

Janiicm/ 2\st. — A splendid addition to my collection
arrived to-day ! One of the Zanzibaris brought me a
magnificent Goliath beetle, the largest I have ever
seen, but not so brightly coloured as those I got in tlie
Transvaal and Mashona country. I saw one some time

• i

DIARY.

195

iir

,1^

r iiTceiis.

ew awav

laige

COWRIF, HkaD-DRKSS.

aijo, flying very high, and conkl not get a sliot at it ; and
to-night, just before dinner, I had sent my gun in "svith
one of the men, when one flew right over my head, but
did not settle anywhere within sight. 'I'hese are the
only three I have seen during this trip. 'Hiere seem
to be very few beetles here, but the few there are, I think
arc most of them rare specimens. Saw a very
hil)po going down the river to-day.

January 22n(l, Siuulay. — Took a walk witli Ward up
rlie river. It is now evidently the flowering season
for almost every tree and shrub ; and some of them are
v(>iy beautiful. I did ncjt slioot anything tlien ; but in
the evening I had a grand time with my gun and the
birds, getting three wliich are new to me. I flrst saw
a sunbird dart over the path and fly into a tree some
distance in the jungle. As far as I could see in the
moment's time, it was a cock bird, with a bright red
breast, belly, and vent, and the rest of it dark blue or
green. It flew aAvay before I could get a sliot, when
the hen made her appearance, and was shot instead.

1888.
Jan. 21.

Yiunbuyo,

'> s

190

tiTOliV OF THE HEAR L'Ul.VMS.

188«.
Jun. '22.

Yiuiibiiya.

f 1 1

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lA^h

Slioitly aftorwards T fj^ot a voiy liMiidsonio biid. of
wliiit sj)(>ci('s I do not know. It is ii little l;u<i('r tlmn
a thrush, ;Mid has a powerful and crow-shajjcd hciik.
Tho hicas' is vciy flat, and the colourin*:; rcsciiihlo
that of the harhcts. It has lar^c l)ri<;ht oran<»;(» \\iittl(>
and hrak ; head, nock, and throat hcinii: <>f very (Icch
claret. The feathers are flossy and hard like shurt
hackles ; the breast and belly are bri«^'lit lenion-ycllow.
s|)()tte(l here and there with black; vent l)lii(k;
shoulders white ; win<»s, back, and tail black ; eves
very dark red. I also «i;ot a beautiful l\uadis(> fiv
catcher; and on the road home a lar<;e black shiikc.
which Bonny wanted. Tlavinjij left the birds in mv
house, I Avent out aujain, and shot a very handsome
warbler, abnost as lar«>;(> as a thrush, which I have
never seen before, so that to-moirow I shall hav(> a
really busy day. It was great luck getting the Imue
bird and the warbler, as I should never ha\e seen
them had I not gone into the thickest part of the
jungle in search of birds I tliought I had wounded.

January 23rc?. — Got a few good new beetles, A lu^ivy
thunderstorm came on about an hour ago, after dinner.
and has wetted nearly everything in my house, as the
wind drove the rain clean through the sides, so I exjxMt
to ])ass a pretty damp night ! I am afraid the long spell
of fine weather we have had is drawing to a close.

January 2it/i. — Selim ^Fahommed came down to
my house thir. morning, and we had a long talk with
him. It appears that he has with him a man who
left Emin Bey's territory some time after Dr. Junker,
and came down through Uganda and on to Kassongo.
reaching Stanley Falls a few days before Ward's last
visit there. Emin Bey has been known to the Arabs
for a long time, but always as Abdul Emin ; and
they heard him named Emin Bey for the first time
by Dr. Junker. He states that, when he left, Emin
Bey was at his station, which, from his description,
appears to be at the northern end of Lake Albert Nyanza,
on an island, with the river on one side and the lake
on the other, close to a very large mountain. The

DIAItV

197

ppoiilo of wliom lio staiuls in (liiii<i:('r nro tlic kiiii;s of 1^*9'^^-
the rliveo suiToundini; native kiny-donis, all tlircc \v\\ '"'," '

/.111 11- I • * ininbuyii.

nowcrtul. rroni svhat this man says no is not on
t'licndly terms with any one of them, and appears to be
mere or less hemmed in on this island, lie has tno
steamers in whi(th he <j;oes backwards and forwards
between his stations. Seliin Mahommed says that lie
h(>ai(l of Kinin Wvy i^'oini;- down to l'<i:anda a lon<^ time
aL'o to try and make terms with the kinj' about y-ettiny:
out that way; but he has not heard of his beiii<i: there
a second time. The Arabs know all his movements,
the Sultan of /an/ibar liavinL»- sent orders to all the
Arab stations to the efiect that, should Kmin Hey come
to any of them and be in need of anything:, they were
to supply it, the Sultan himself repaying them for it.
This man says that when Dr. Junker left he took with
him a lot of Kmin Bey's ivory to Uyoro (U^-o<^o ?), where
li!(> bought cloth and other necessaries with it, and sent
thc'.i back to Einin ; also that Emin has a quantity of
isory, but that it is scattered amon<>' his different
stations. He says the natives at this end of Lake Alb(M't
Nyanza are a very sava<»e and warlike pe()])le. They
have no j>uns or s])ears, but fight with a lar<i;e knife
and shield. They are not like the natives here, who
aic afraid of guns, and run away when a few of them
are shot, but they come right on in great numbers.
Thus the great danger to which it appears Mr. Stanley
is open is being attacked on the march w hen his men
are tired and straggling, and the ^Maxim gun can only
be used at one point. Another danger is the ^-,•eakness
of his force, owing to the great number of desertions
ami deaths ; for although we only know definitely of
2o or 24 desertions, these men and the Arabs all say
tliat many others have left him, princi])ally owing to his
treatment of thein on the road. We have not seen or
heard of those other deserters, because they have gone
down by another route, — probably via Kibonge to
Kassongo ; but very likely Tip])u-Tib on his return will
hine heard soinetliing of them. For these reasons
Selim Mahommed inclines to the belief tlmt Stanley
is in some way liam])ered, and unable to get ou or

1.'

108

SToiiv or THE hear column .

1888.
Jan. 24.

Yambuya.

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send inon bark ; he tljinks that only his ohlost luid
most faithful foHowors have stuck to liim. Wo Imvc
talked the matter over am(m«j:st ourselves, and can
only await Tii)pu-'rib's return fn)m Kasson^o, and soo
how many men he will ^ive us. If we only \tv\ two
or three hundred, we shall start with them and tlic
pick of the men here, with lif^ht h)ads (princii)iillv
ammunition), and force our way throu«j;h to se(> wluit
has become of Stanley, leaving? two white officers Iumv,
with the rest of the men and loads. I told Seliin, in
chaff, that if I remained out here much lon<;(n' tlioy
would think at home that I was dead, and that I sliould
find, on mv return, my wife had married some one else
He laughed very much, and told me about one of the
Arabs at the Falls called Nasoro Masudi. Some time
a<^o there were two men of this name, one at Maiiy-
angwe and this one at the Falls. The man at Many-
angwe was killed in a fight ; and when the lunvs
reached Zanzibar, the relations of Nasoro Masudi (of
Stanley Falls) thought it was he. llis wife, motluT,
and some relatives then divided his property amongst
themselves, and his wife married anotlier man; but
before long she received a letter from her husband at
the Falls, saying he had made some money and was
returning to Zanzibar. This rather took them aback ;
but the men relatives bolted with their share of the
property, and poor Nasoro returned to this ])ainful
state of affairs, Selim Mahommed told me that justice
does not exist at Zanzibar ; everything is done by bribery,
and the case is always gained by tlie richest man. If
a rich man beats or ill-treats a poor one, and he com-
plains, he is at once accused of having cursed the rich
man, or some other crime of that description, and is
put into prison, the rich man having bribed the judge.

January 2oth. — One of my Zanzibaris died yesterday,
and one of the men from Bolobo to-day. This makes
47 deaths in camp. My man has been ill ever since
August, when he was so bad that I took his rifle from
him, as he could scarcely carry it. The man who died
to-day was well except for a sore leg. He was found

DIARV.

100

(lead tiiis inoruinji:, with a (iiiantity <>f blood wliicli had
ri()\\»'(l from tlu» \v\i, v'\\*\\\ outside the Imt. The sore
had evidently oaten into a vein, which hud hurst in his
slccj), and lie luid hied to death, lie was one of our
(Hin|) polictMiien, and (juite one of tlie l)est men we had.
Scliin Maliommed spoke very (dieerfully al)out tlie eer-
taiiity of tlie men arrivin*; from 'rii)|)u-')'il), sayiiifj; that
he liiinself much wished to see the country that we should
•TO throui^h, and that we could ^o hy u much strai^hter
road than Stanley's, for where he had made a detour
from the river and returned to it a<i;ain, we could «>;o
strai<;ht on. Had a <;reat day paintinji; beetles and
(Iryiiii^ specimens. In the evenin«^ 1 shot a sparrow
almost identical with our Knglish one.

January 'l()th. — The forenoon was so dark that I
could hardlv s€»e to do anvtliinu:. It was iust like a
(lav at home — cold and cloudy. No news of any kind,
either from the Falls or of Stanley. It is now a very
serious question as to what has befallen him, and
AvliJit we are to do shonld Tippu-'rib not bring enou<i;h
men with him from Kassongo. Make a move of some
kind we must ; but it is useless to do so unless we are
ill a position to be of real help to Stanley.

.Tanuanj 21th. — Had a most successful day's collecting.
Ill the morning I shot tw^o cock sunbirds, quite new
to me, one of them the most beautiful 1 think 1
have ever seen. The throat and upper half of breast
are bright metallic golden green, and below this.
on the breast, is a line of prussian blue, edged with
carmine. The lower part of the bi'east, belly, and vent
are a rich, dark velvety brown. There is a small i)atcli
on the crown of dark green and purple, and on the
cheeks a line of dark green. The rest of the bird is a
rich golden oli\'e-brown in dark and light shades.
The other is much smaller, and not nearly so beautiful.
Painted and skinned them. In the evening I shot a
very handsome pair of weaver-birds. Selim Ma-
lioirimed's men attacked Ungungu's brother's village
this morning. It lies lower down the river, t)n the
opposite bank. We heard the firing quite distinctly.

IRflS.
Jan. •-V).

Yum buy a.

iiiil'!^

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apJiiy Of THE hi: Mi colcmn

J..I1. 127.
Vuiiil uyo,.

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Tlu'V killed the cliict', Jind hroiiy^iit hiicU liis \\<^\\\. Imnd
\\\{\\ tiicm. 'Ihcy ciiiJtmcd tuciity-scvcn women imd
cliildreii, and Ivillcd tour men besides flie cliiet'. In.
^unj^n will he a ^reiit fool if lie does not \£^\\v np tlic
t^iins now, as tliis will certaiidy lia|»|»en to liim also.
Selim Maliomined's hand iVoin Kasson<^o came down
aud played and san«^- to us whilst we were at dinner.

Jftiruf/r// '2^f/t. — Ahmed .\hdullali, a Soudanese
soldier, died to-day. Spent most of the day in paintin;,'
birds and flowers. In the eveninj^; I took a stidil
throufi^h the manioc plantations and shot a h(>autitiil
})ara(lise flycatclu^r, the cock hird of the hen whicli I
got a few days a<^o. It apjteai's tiiat the naii\e
chief whom Selim Mahommed's nuMi killed was under
the protection of an Arab, called Ali Mahonniied.
aud so trouble has arisen amongst themselves, and 1
heard that Selim Mahommed had sent off a lot of liis
men to fifJ^ht the others. It nuist be rather a curious
and pleasing sight for the poor luitivcs to yee tlu'in
fighting among themselves.

January 'l^Hh^ Sumlaii. — This was (me of the hottest
days wo have had. The thermonu'ter stood at cSS^
nearly all day in my house, and lo()° in the sun.
Skinned some birds, dried specimens, and finished
painting some flowers. In the evening shot a small
"warbler, which is new to me. The natives of the village
on the other side evidently had a fright to-day. I hciinl
a great row, and on going out with the glasses, saw
them all tumbling into their canoes as fast as they
could, and ])ushiug out into the stream. Some of those
who were left behind were jumping into the water and
swimming. It was (uily a scare, for they all soon
returned. Theirs must be a miserable existence, liable
to be attacked at any moment by the Arabs, tlieir
women and children taken, and the men shot ; yet they
always ap[)ear light-hearted and jolly in spite of all.
The chief who was killed the other day is the head
chief of the whole district.

DiAliW

liia

J(iiiiii(r>i ^)Of/i. — Hou^Mit a vrry nin'ons niifivc smw- ^^^^
]<iiitc f(i-(liiy. Tlic iiiiiii wiiiitcd clotli for if. Imt iis I ''"' ''"
had iioiiL', 1 oficiL'd liiiii j^miiMjsvdi'r, uliicli lie dccliiicd. """"'*•

A'/ ■

i»%j

TN'au-Kxiki: n«)M T.imami TIivkr,

'■^Mfi'i

The ^^^j<)^ then triod to buy it for me witli tlio rnnvas
oft' his old bed, but lie ould not liave that either, when
I rei!ienil)ered that J had an old Pifjjou and \\'ilka
powder-flask painted blaek, with a brij^ht yellow paper-
lal)el on it. I showed him this, and extolled its vabu? ;
lie juiMj)(>d at it and asked for some powder in it, so I
put a little in and obtained the knife. The eurious
shape of the top of the blade is evidently taken from
the l)ill of a hornbill.

Jdiinnry o\8f. — This morninf^ I shot a ])air of finches,
of wliich I have only seen one specimen l)efore, and
that was one 1 shot on our arrival here, the skin of
wliicli was destroved bv beetles. This eveninji: I shot a
beautiful snuill warbler. I find that every minute
of tlu' dav 1 have sometbin<r to do. First tiling in
the morning ])arade men and tell them off to their
work, then breakfast, followed bv a stroll witli the
mui as lon<ij as it is cool. Most likely a new bird is
shot, when he has to be drawn, painted, and skinned ;
then perhaps a boy will come in with a new beetle or a
C!uri(ms insect, which is sui)ject to the same fate ; then,
before the sun goes down, another ramble with the gun.
Through it all, one cannot helj) feeling how utterly one

r .

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''II'" 'I'

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tii

1888.
Jan. .31.

Tambuya.

2U2

HTUlty OF T///'J RKAR COLUMN.

is left out of all the roal work we ramo to do, and tlie
sense of keen disapixnntment crops up at all times.

Fehrifcu'ii \-^f. — The men came back from Yalisula to-
day, with ])alm-oil and fowls, and a present of a j^oat from
Saidi Cliongo * to the Major. They had been lost in tlic
forest for tlirec dayS; havin<i: mistaken a large elepliaiit-
track for the right road. They brought a great inanv
rej)orts, but no definite news. Tip])u-'ril), they suv.
will soon be back from Kassongo. Ah'eady nine oi- ten
canoes have arrived from there with men, but they h.nc
been sent off to a river called the Lumami (not tlic one
we know of), to settle some dispute, after whicli tlicv
will come hcic. Another report says that the wlii.t(>
men (Stanley and his l^arty) are (m an island figlitiiii:
an angry king. Selim .\rahommed places no faith in
this rumour. He is expecting a letter from 'rippu-
Tib. Had a good evening's shooting, viz. one Vknrlilcr.
a siinbiid, and a finch. A curious thing ha])pene(l on
my way back. I had shot a sunbird close to wIkmo I
shot the warbler last night, and pointing out vhe sht t-
holes through the top of the small bush v/here lie had
been, I said to Barttelot, " I wonder if there are any
feathers from the tail of that bird. I looked yesterday
but could find none." On stoo))ing dowm, what was my
surprise to find a dead bird exactly resembling that which
I shot yesterday, lying in tlie same spot, but in this ono
the tail was perfect. 1 must have shot both birds, hut
I certainly only saw^ the one when I fired, and I fail to
understand how I missed seeing this one.

Fehmarf) 2nd. — Last night the natives stole two
large canoes belonging to Selim Mahornmed, whicli he
had placed below- our camp for safety. A man must
have sw'um down and cut them loose w^ith a knife, for
the sentry says that although he heard a slight noise.
he could see no one to fire at, and immediately after-
wards he saw the canoes floating away dow^n the stream.
The natives, however, were only taking what belonged

* Chief of Yalisula.— Ed.

1)1 A HY.

203

to tfH'TTi, for tlio fanocs liad Ihvmi takoii from tliom ahout
a week a<;o. Made a skotcli of a v"ry liandsonie Goliath
beetle wliicli Bonny got to-day.

FcliiHfU'jj hrd. — One of my men died to-day who has
ban ili for tlic last two montlis. lie seemed to be
o-etriii.i^ better, but the last two or tliree nii>]its have
been \erv cold, and have evidently finished him. Siiot
three finches, a snnbird, and a warbler. I have only
one specimen of the sunbiid and warbler. Selim
Mahommed has sent over twenty-ei<)[ht men to the otlier
side of the river, there to lie in wait dnrinc^ tlie iiii^lit,
and attack and burn Ungungu's village at daybicak
to-morrow. Tie has not given up the guns, and has
broken faith in every way with Scdim Malio)nm(Ml. A
brother of tlie chief whom the Arahs killed the otlier
day I'nid us a visit to-day, and was shown round
the camp. The Major and I have talked mattc^rs
over together, and have decided, in case we hear of
Mr. S):auley having either met with disaster or being
heiiuned in, that we will personally sign a guarantee
for t*-'),()00, which we will give to Tippu-Tib u])on his
signing an agreement to give us sufficient men to go
\n) to the l.ake, and see what has really happened;
that is, if he will not do it for h^ss, or if he will not give
us en(mgh mon to move the loads now. If we have to
do this, we shall only take food and ammunition, and go
simply to fight our way through if necessary. The
man who died to-day makes the 49th death in camp.

Fehntary 4t/i. — To-day was the third anniversary of
my wedding, so we killed the big goat, Tippu-'l'ib's
])resent to me, and feasted. Bonny contributed a tin of
Hour, and the Major a tin of jam, and the result
was a splendid culinary surprise to me, for they had
])ur])osely not told me about it. We had, unfortu-
nately, nothing stronger than tea to drink my wife's
health in. This morning, shortly after daybreak, I
was awakened by the guns of the Arabs who were
at';u'king I'ngungu's village, almost opposite our c-nnp.
1 lan out with the glasses, but there was a thi('k mist,

IS8{J.
Feb. 2.

Yambuya

wwm

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■n|

-1 ';,;

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■

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Lii

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204

ISTOliV OF Till'] HI': Alt COLUMN.

* ji

jl |.r|'

I'i

I "

isss.

Fob. 4.
i'atubuyd.

and nothiiii^ to bo s(H>n l)ut tlio flaslios of tlio j^uns as
they sliot tlio imfortniuiro natives swimminfr in (|,^.
water, and tiw slindowy forms of tlic canoes g'>iii<r up
stream. Nearly all the eaiio(>s i.iade for tlie ruslies in
the centre of tlic rapids, wliere they Imd built a l')t of
huts, but they were soon dri\en out of tliat refuoc, nnd
w(>nt in a body away up the river. Seliin Maliomincd
himself, witli some men, was stationed on tliis side to
guard against tlieir landing. I saw two poor fellows, in
a canoe wliicli came I'atlier close in, lia\e a \ery iijiriow
escape, as Selim began sliooting at them with liis
Martini, but tliey ju5ni)ed out and ])ut tlie cniioo
between tliem and tlie shrn-e. A uumb(T of nati\('s
M-ere shot, but I cannot t(dl how many, as most of tlicm
sank in the Wi.ter; ]iow(>ver, they captured one man,
and brouglit back one liead with them, wliicli A\ nrd
and I sketched. Aft(M-wai-ds I skinned and preserved
it, and shall try to get it liome with me *. The Arabs
captured five canoes, some very fine ones, and 1 fear
the natives have little cliancc of escape, as Abdullah's
people hold tlie islands up river, and have canoes.
The Arai)s had burnt tlie whole of tlie village, wliich
now made a beautiful picture, with the sinoke and
Hames rising up from under the dark foliage of the
forest, and reflected as in a mirror across the suiiHt
waters, while higher up the river the canoes Avere
disappearing into the mist which still hung over the
rapids. When one thinks that Selim Mahommed is
one of Tippu-Tib's head men, Tippu now being an officer
of the Congo Free State, whose charter binds him to
put down all forms of slavery, and that these head men
of his send out parties in all directions to hunt ivorv
and slaves every day, it sec^ins a curious medlev.
To-night Burgari Mahommed, the man who stole the
meat out of \\'ard's house (and who has been in chains
ever since, doing walking-punishment every dav),
escaped from the guard-house, taking with him the ser-
geant's rifle and twelve cartridges.

* This head reached home safely, and was the one which gave rise
to the atrocious attacks in the Press on the late Mr. Jameson. Ed

DIARY,

205

' ■ A-

::h. I

Waxaku Pottery.

Fehruarjj bth, Sunday. — Another of the Soudanese
soldiers died to-day. The Arabs, who tried to intercept
the natives going up river yesterday, met witli decided
reverses. Ten of them, in a canoe whicli stuck on a
rock, were killed by tlie natives, who took all their guns.
Last night all the nati\es passed the camj) and went away
down the river ; tlius of course Selim Mahommed, who
went up river to-day to Inint for them, did not succeed
in his quest. Selim, however, shot two unfortunates,
who were fools enough to show themseh es. It is not

Fob. .').
Yaiubuya.

1 ■ r

206

STORY OF THE HEAR COLUMN.

1888.
Feb. 5.

Tambuya.

1 1

lilf.

"'"'■"'-•Mi^Jl^ I

pleasant to rofirct that Hurgari Maliommod is still loose
round about the cramp ^vith a riflo and 12 cartridges !

Fehruary i^tli. — I painted a lovely snake wliich u mim
brou«i^ht in, and a fish, which I had in a large earthenware
jar. Selim Mahommed says that when they reaclicd
the place, yesterday, where the ten Arabs bad been killed
by the natives, they found the native fires still burninjr,
and a lot of the dead men's flesh left in the pots.
The natives had eaten nearly all the bodies, nnd had
nailed their fingers to the surrounding trees. 1 believe
it is quite a common practice amongst tlie Arabs, wlien
they have made friendly terms witli one village, to
capture the natives of another place, men or boys, and u\\q
them over to be eaten, as a present, to the natives of
the friendly village. When the Arabs brought back the
hand of the chief whom they killed the other day, some
natives, who were in his camp, said to Selim jMahomined,
*' Vou say you are a friend to us, and yet you give us no
one to eat ! Give us the hand ! " This is the hottest day
we liave had, 90° in the shade, 137° in the sun.

Fehruary Ifh. — Thunderstorm and torrents of rain all
forenoon. AVrote up my bird notes. Some Arabs
arrived from the Lumami liiver, and we succeeded in biiv-
ing seven goats and some fowls from them. Not a word
of news of any kind al)out Stanley ! The Major and 1
start on Saturday hx Staidey Falls to meet Tippu-Tib,
and force him, if possible, to show his hand to us. If he
will only give us a few men, we will go up and see wliat
has happened. This waiting here in utter darkness is
sickening, and the men are dying off like rotten sheep.

Fehruary Sf/i. — Another man from Bolobo died to-
day (51 deaths). It is almost certain that a death
will be reported after any of the cold storms which visit
us. Did a little painting to-day, but it was so cold and
dark inside my house that I did not feel much inclined
to do anything. AMien it is fearfully hot we all pray
for cold weather, and when it comes it upsets our livers,
and then we pray for the heat again. This is the worst

DIARY.

207

nliuT I lia\ c ever collected in ; it is almost iin[)o!Jsible to .l,^-
jret aiiythiiif^ 1 do not already possess, and yet I have y^mbuya
only a few specimens.

Frhruan/ ^dt/i. — Hurgari Mahommcd was capturcul and
bioui^ht into camp this morning. One of my men
n ho was out a long way from camp yesterday, getting
manioc, saw him sitting down, and told the Arabs in a
villaii'c close by. 'I'liey went out this morning, and
l)uruari iired at one of the natives ; but when the Arai)s
came up, and said " Do not fire at us, we are friends,
come into our village," he did so, and was then sur-
prised, disarmed, tied up and brought into camp. He
is to be shot to-morrow morning. 'I'roup and I were
the (mly ones who thonght the extreme penalty might
be mitigated. No one can deny that, according to
military law on active service, he ought to be shot,
and tlu're is no doubt that it ought to ha^•e a very good
ett'ect upon the others ; but wli?u one thinks what a
miserable poor wretch he is, and from what a miserable
existence he tried to escape, one cannot help pitying
him. It is a long time now since he stole the meat out
of Ward's house, which was the offence for which he
was punished origiiudly. I tliink. all things taken
into consideration, a litllt leniency to such a poor
wretch would not be flung away. We have arranged
t!) start for the Falls on Sundav, and the idea of the
change from this horrible existence is delicious.

February 10th. — Took everything out of the store and
Efave it all a sunning. After lunch had all mv birds'
skins out in the sun, and got them thoroughly dried.
They are all in capital condition, and no sign of beetle
amongst them. Burgari was shot this morning, and all
the men in camp were paraded to witness it. lie was
tied up to the flogging post on the road outside the
camp, and eight Soudanese formed the firing party.
Death was instantaneous, one bullet going right through
the backbone, and another through the heart. He
took the whole thing quite coolly, without the sign of
a tremble, or an utterance of any kind, and waited

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208

STORY OF THE REAR COLTMX.

1888.
Feb. 10.

Yambuya

I..

qnirtly witli his lioad sH<>,litly bout for tlio sio;iijil to fin.,
'I'lio ISIajoi lins cU^ridod to start for tlio Falls on Simdjiv.
Sclim Mahoinmcd says 'I'i])])u-'I'il) is not tlioro, and lie
does not know when ho will rotnrn. A\'o may liiivc to
wait thoro a month or moro hoforc^ ho arrives, knowin^r
all tho time that wo aro unwoloomo gnosts, (uuh\.
noss knows I shall ho <ilad of tho (■han<»;o, bnt 1 dont
think it a t^ood move until wo hoar of 'Jippn-Til) liavi]i(r
left Kassongo.

Fchnfan/ I'it/i. — Another Boloho man dead (.');;
deatlis). Our do])arturo is put off to Tuesday.

Ff'hruary V2th, Suvla}/. — The men had a whole
holiday, as usual on Sunday. Bonny bought a very
good specimen of the white-nosed monkey yest(>rdav.
The river is so low now that in some places I think one
could wade across.

Fehruary loth. — Busy all day arranging my store and
packing.

Taituoinu.

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( 209 )

'<i

A Glimpse across Ardwimi Hiver.

CHAPTER Vll.

FF.imi'AUY 14th to April :20Tir.

Start with the Major for Stanley Falls. — Meet a number of men from
Kassougo. — Singatini. — Interview with Xziij;e. — No news u( Stanley. —
Hunting for game in the jungle. -Letter from Yambuya Camp. -Shock
of earthquake. — Anxious waiting. — Sketciiing regarded as sorcm-y by
Mahommedans.^Fever. — Letter from Troup.— Harttclot ananjri's to
send Jameson to Kassongo. — I^etter to Mrs. Jameson. — Stp.rt for Ka.s-
songo. — Tankeewee. — Wild-looking natives. — Wamanga Rapids. -
Meet men from Kassongo. - Kibonge. — Jameson writes to Stanley. — ■
Kapruta. — Ass id Farran hunts forduions. — Kosuku. — Kindni'ss of Arab
chief. — Poisoned arrows. — liiba-liiba. — Shooting iiippos. — Throe great

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210

UTOIiV OF Till': Rl'Ult COLL MX.

' i

Feb. 14.
Yiiweeko.

'■'11

'' !

chiefs. — Tippu-Tib's nmiics. — Diui^jfprons iintives.— Tleml men fcnr a
niglit attack.— Qiimifra. — Nvaiijrwi;.— Kindiioss of Amhs. — .Vnivul nt
Kussongo. — Tippii-'i'ib. — ^Ivrtihi muntrv. — ■ Salciii .M i.siuli. — Tiiiim
agrees to provide men. — Slietcliing. -.laiiu'son writes to Mr. Mackin.
noil.— Letter to Mrs. Jaiuesoii. — Arab customs.— Conver,'<utii)a with
Tippu-Tib. — Muni Katomba.

February lith. — Left Yambuya Camp for Sinojitini.
Did a loii^ march to Yawcoko. Crossed niiu'tccii
streams. Found a very beautiful small Avhite tree-fio^
in the forest. Belly briji;ht lemou-orauge. Toes dark
orange. Ilest of body pure milky wliite. Eyes, black
centre, surrounded by ring of bright gold, rest of eve
reddish g'>ld. Same size as smdU green tree-frog com-
monly sold at home. AVhen put into a box, it faded
into pale reddish white. It was found close to shrubs,
some with pure white leaves, and otliers with light red
leaves. Assad Farrau was behind, took the wrong path,
and did not get into camp until next morning.

Feli'uary Ihth. — Passed a very bad night. My
clothe!, were wet, and as my bag did not arrive until
this morning, I had to sleep in my shirt and water})r()(jf.
Mosquitoes and a host of detestable insects fed on my
legs all night. Started late, and marched througli the
cane-brake beyond Yarina, when we missed our road
and camped for the night. Assad Farran was again
lost ; he declared in the morning that whilst going up
the bed of the stream yesterday he heard a fearful noise
above the bank, and thinking it was some very lar<i;e
beast trying to climb a tree, he hurried on. In the village
of "^ Jirina there was a small patch of millet groNxing.
When Assad Farran heard us discuss what sort of coi n
it was, he remarked that he thought it must h e mocaroni.
The cane-brake was so trodden down by elephants that
it was almost impossible to follow the track.

February \Qtli. — Some of the men went out at day-
break to look for Assad Farran, and Selim Mahomincd
went to find the right road. The men returned witliout
Assad, so the Major and I started off to look for liim.
After going some diitance, we heard shots in camp,
and found that he had returned. Selim soon came in,

DIARY.

211

18«R

aiul wc made a start about midday, camping near the ji.^,,^ j^j^
1()1i<j: water just as it got dark. Assad was again left Yulmula.
behind, and men had to be sent out for bim.

Fch'uaryllth. — Marched into Yalisuhi about 3 o'clock,
just in time to miss a lieavy thunderstorm. One scene
oil the march formed a very beautiful picture. As
the carriers wound tlieir way in a long line over the
white sand, now thickly strewn with brown dead leaves.

Small War-knifb.

and up the high wooded banks, gleams of sunshine
fell upon them through the dark tropical foliage. In
the foreground lay an old log across the stream, over
which had crept mosses and large ferns, and far away
through the depths of the forest, every now and again
gleamed patches of sunlight on w^ater and figures, while
from bough to bough, hanging in graceful festoons, clung
giant creepers. Saidi Chongo, the Arab in charge of
Yalisula, made us a present of a splendid fish, carp-
shaped, weighing close on 20 lbs., and a goat, so we
were in clover. Spent most of the evening in endea-
vouring to avoid the streams of water which came
throui^rh the roof of our house.

February 18th. — After paying carriers, &c., we got
into canoes, and started up river about midday, and
reached Yatuka, where Ave stopped for the night, at
9 P.M. Shortly after leaving Yalisula, we passed a
number of canoes, filled Avitli men from Kassongo, who
we found were on tlieu' way to Selim Mahommcd, at

il - j4 ■ I

iii

'M2

iSTonr or tiih hhau coiamx.

K.b. IS.
Yutuka.

our cam]). lie toM tlic Aral) in (•liar^(» of tlinn to
Avait wv'iW ^ alisula a few (lil^s, imtil liis rcMiini. \\ ,.
left "N'alisula in j^rcat style, with cliicf's ])a(l(lliiin; ,|^
and a l)an(l ot'drnnis in cacli canoe. TIk* i;i"ouj) ot' iikh
p uldlini;-, and nnisicians in (lie slcin, made a fine iiictinc,
t'nll of life and action, and tlu» sin^inuj and dniiniiiinn
added to the nildncNS of tli(» scene. Tlie Miijdr, in
the forej^ronnd, lyinjj: on a ))ale of cloth, snrronndcd hv
p;nns, l)ii<.;s, and cookin<^-|)()ts ; two i)()ys seated hcliind
liim, one a little in front of the other; then tno hkh
])a(ldlinijj, standing- on the bottom of the canoe, hetwciMi
whom stood a man sini^in^s his rii^ht hand riiis(>(l,
nsini^ a switch as a huton ; beside him, seatcMl on \\\v
edtije of the canoe, a boy, beatin<i; a drnm between liis
knees. lUdiind these ai>'ain stood two men on the lii^h
end of the canoe, ])ad(llinij^, and then another scented,
beatint!: a (b'nm. The red dye of the cam-wood, wliich
adorned their hair and clothes alike, the monkey skins
and feather hats, the knives hani>in,<i; from the band
over the shouhlers, the brass and co])j)er bracelets and
anklets, all added to the brii^ht and ])ictnres(ine efirct
of the scene, to which one element lent a strcnijij clia-
racteristic, viz. the tattooing (m all the fipjnres. 1 sliot
a verv fine black monkev, with remarkably lony; liair.
It is jet-black all over with the excei)ti()n of a tuft of
long white hair on each shonlder, and the lower lialf
of the tail, Avliich is white. It measures five f(H>t
two inches, from nose to tip of tail, the tail being verv
long. Skinned him in the canoe, by the light of a
small palm-oil lamp, giving the meat to the natives,
who sang with delight.

Fehniary lOM, Sunday. — Left Yatuka early and
reached upper Tatiacusu about 5 VM. Shot two large
white-nosed monkeys for the natives. Found black and
large orange weaver-birds breeding on the same tree.
Slept in a native hut. The natives kept up singing and
dancing nearly all night. We thought it was in hononr
of us, but discovered it was in that of a small boy who
had been circumcised.

iv~

DlAltV.

2ia

Frhmrmj 2O1'//.— Loft Tatiacusii, 8 a.m., and ivacliod
SiHiratiiii at 8 P.M. On our arrival wo had an intorviow
witii Nzi^'o, Tippu's brotlior, who tohl us that tho l-jl
mon we had passod in tho canoos near ^ alisuhi liad
(oine from Kassongo, bosidos ")0 moro, who wore sonio-
whoro olso. Tipp\i-l'ib wouhl not bo back until noxt
month. No nows wliatover of Stanloy. 'n])pu-'rib
would bring mon^ ni(-n with liini, but how nuuiy he
could not say. Altogothc'r tho interview was most un-
satisfactory. ' lie gave us the same liouse that Ward

1888.
I.\b. 20.

Singatiiii.

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214

sTour OF run ueau Cftfjw/x,

t I'!

p!b^»o '^'^'^ ^ ^"^'^ l)oforo. lIcNivy thundcrstorin and rain iionrlv

Fcftntftn/ 21. v^ — TIad an interview witli Nzijrc, wji,.,,
Harttelot pres('nte(l liiin witli a very liandsonie kiiit'c
Ho aj^ain told us that two hundivd men had come uitli
orders to wait under Selini Mahommed at our ciiinii
until 'ripjui-Tib's arrival. The canoes liave <jjone \y,u\
to lvass()n<j;o to hrin«^ more* men with 'ri|>|)U next inonth
He was as anxious as we were ahout \Ir. Stanh'v, and
was very ,u:lad to see us here. Selim Maliommed came
up to our liouse afterwards and «jjave us the same news,
and 1h' said tliat the peojile most likely to stop Stiinlcv
were tliose of tlie country at the soutliern end of Lake
AU)ert Nyan/a, wlio had been feared l)y Dr. Lenz, and

wlio w(M'e ij^ov(Mne(i oy a very ])owei

1 1)

•ful k

luir.

e said

he sliould like to <j^o witli ns liimself. Arranged to <;(i
after chimi)auzees and l)uffalo to-morrow. The river is
very full, and it is a fine si<4ht to watch tlie natives
liftin<»' tlie fish baskets under the falls. Called on (,]d
Nasoro Masudi, who told ns that Mahommed bin Said
had ii^oiie to Kassono-o, where he had married the <j;irl
intended for his i^randson.

FcbrKan/ 22nd. — Selim's men never came, so I sent
down to is'zifi^e for some, and as so(m as they turiHMl
up, went for a hmg round throu<ijh the forest, at the
back of Sinjratini. Saw no fresh track of eh^phaiit
or buffalo, but a n^ood many fresh (mes of antelope,
although I did not ijjet a shot. The Major had a
bad bilious headache, so he did not come out. \n
news of any kind. The natives cannot imderstiuid
where Ti]i]iu-Tib comes from ; they declare his motluM'
is either here or at Kassongo, and they are puzzled
about his having come up the Congo v»itli Stanley.

Fchruary 23n/. — Had a long day in the j\i»gle f)ii
the other side of the river, looking for chimpanzees.
Lately 1 have heard nothing but tales of the wondiMfiil
numb(U's of elephants, buffaloes, and chimpanzees whicii

DIAltV.

216

111

■:l

My Friend " Masudi,'' onk of tqk Tajiua-Tambas.

Imunt this neighbourhood, but to-day I did uot soo a
fivsli track of One of them! A heavy thunderstorm
came on ajt 2 ()'ck)ck, with torrents of rain and a gale
of wind. Altogether I had a bad time of it. It is
yreat fun crossing the river now, as it is in full flood,

1888.
Feb. 23.

Sinjiatini.

21G

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

Feb. 23.
Bingatini.

, ! : il

( I

and the lanoes get twisted and turned about in tlie
most extraordinary way.

Fehruary 2Wi. — Another long day in the junglo on
the other side of the river. Not a sign of any gamo ;
shot three small monkeys to pay the natives. Sjjcnt
the whole day, with my chin nearly between my knees,
going through cane-brakes, swamps, and thick jungle;
luckily there was no rain. Selim Mahommed left lor
Yambuya. The white-nosed monkey (not the lesser)
seems to be the commonest here. Saw the natives
get a splendid fish out of one of the baskets to-dav,
which must have weighed at least 60 or 70 lbs. It wa>^
a large carp-like fish, and two men were canying it.

February 2^)th. — A lazy day, Nzige and a number
of Arabs paid us a visit and had a great inspection of
our guns, and Nzige said he would give us a canoe and
men to go up the Chopo River for two or three days'
shooting. Some men arrived from Kassongo or Nyangw(''
this morning, but they were all for Sheik Habib on the
Lumami lliver. The only news they brought was that

Tippu

was

still

collecting

men at Kassongo. The

Major and I took a long walk through the forest, and I
shot a very fine nightjar and a large squirrel.

February 2Qfh, Sunday. — Very dull day. Skinned
the niglitjar and the squirrel, and found inside the
former a fully developed egg, pure white, and as larj^-e
as a ])igeon's. Bought some fowls and onions to take
with us to-morrow. As Nzige's men did not turn up,
he is sending us to a village of his, about three hours'
walk on the other side of the river. Put a new sight
into the Major's Winchester. Had a very vivid dream
last niorht of Mr. Stanlcv's return.

February 27th. — Nzige asked us to start to-morrow,
so we put off going till then. He has written to Tippu-
Tib, telling him that we are both here anxiously await-
ing his arrival. From all accounts there seems to he
plenty of game where we are going, and poor old Nzige
seems quite i)leased at the cluince of our shooting him

^ ■ '.f'*«l

DIARY.

217

;o-m()rr()\v,

somo ivory. Was rather seedy, so simply did nothing

all day.

Fchniary 2Sfh. — I^eft soon after breakfast, and havin*.'
crossed the river and marched for tlu'ee liours in a N.K.
(liivc'tion, readied tliis viUaii^e, called Hatinmbele. U'he
head Arab, called Nunikatoto, had prepared a liouse for
us, the only drawback to which was that tlie mnd-walls
were still dri])pinij^ wet, it beini? only just finished.
Arranged with Mabruki, a native chief of the nearest
village, to start at daybreak to hunt for ele])hants.

February 2^th. — ]\Iabrnki did not arrive till late.
Saw fresh elepliant-tracks, and liavin^ followed them
some distance found anotlier native was after them a
long way ahead, so gave it up. Looked about through
jungle all day, but did no good.

March Isf. — Natives never came until 10 o'clock, and
the consequence was tliat altliough we found fresh
elej)hant-tracks and followed them until evening, we
never caught them up. (iot a shot at a chimpanzee,
but the cane-brake was too thick, so 1 did not get liim.
The natives swear they will come to-morrow morning
at daybreak.

March 2nd. — Natives did not turn up until late, so
we ])acked up and returned to Singatini. The Major
told Nzige that lie wished to see liiin privately on
business, so he came ahme to our house. Barttelot
then informed him that in consequence of receiving no
news of Stanley, or from 'rippu-Tib, and having im-
portant proposals to make to the latter, lie meant to
;send me to Kasscmgo, to meet 'ri])pii there, on his
way to Singatini. The Major ex])ljvined to liim that
the case was very urgent, and that he was going to
coiiverL our loads into half loads, as he knew that their
weight was one of the reasons why we could not obtain
carriers. lie wished 'l"ip])u to su])])ly liim with 4(l0
fighting men, as well as the (U)0 carriers. Therefore" it
was necessary to jdace before Tippu his pro])osal.'. for
men and their payment as soon as possible. Nzige

1S88.
Feb. '27.

Singatini.

I'l

i' '

218

STORY OF THE UK AH COLUMN.

1888.
March 2.

Singatini.

'1*1

I 1

M !'!

ii. Ill

replied that the natives here refuse to go up river, ilifit
his mtu were not able to paddle, but if 1 would wait
ten or twelve days he expected canoes with lottos
and men (from Tippu), with whom I coukl riiurii. Jlo
promised to send me by the first canoe that came, which
possibly might be in '^ few days' time. He was most
courteous, and assured us he would do all in his powor
to help us. Two of the cocks at the back of the house
began to fight, a scene which a})])eared to be fraught with
interest to this philanthropically-minded old gentleman!

March ord. — The Major presented Nzigc with a box
of matakas. He seems greatly annoyed at our gcttinfr
no elephants. Late last night, as we Avere going to
bed, two Zanzibaris from the camp arrived with a note
from Troup to the Major. A\^e both thought that it
would either announce news from Stanley or a mutiny
in the camp, but it contained no news beyond the general
condition of the camp, and the fiict that fifty men from
Kassongo had arrived for us.

March 4th, Sunday. — Another lazy day. The Majf)i'
and I meant to take a k)ng round through the jungle, but
it rained steadily most of the day. Nzige sent for us in the
afternoon to see some canoe races, which were a failure.
There were two canoes, one containing about fifty or
sixty men, the other about half that number, and all
they did was to paddle across to the other side ! After
this we had a long talk with Nzige, and told him a lot
about England, and he expressed a wish to accompany
us thither on our return, but inquired anxiously if lie
would receive many presents there, as, if he returned
here witliout any, Tippu would request to know why he
ever went !

March ofh. — We sent back Troup's messengers and
one of our own men to the camp to-day. Sketclied
some of the pe()])le here. About 10 o'clock this morn-
ing we felt a distinct shock of earthquake. There was
a iiollow rumbling sound like distant thunder, and tlio
whole earth trembled, giving our house and everything

DiAitr

219

«!

C?bij

in it a decided sliake. Barttelot and I took a loiif^j
mml)le tlirougli tlie forest, where I sliot a very hand-
some weaver-bird, a parrot, and a squirrel.

March Gfh. — Anotlier lazy day. Sketched a small
(Iniimner-bov from Kassoni>(). Tlie Major made two
trips into the juni;-le, whilst I was sk(>t(nnii<^-, in s(>arch
of birds wounded yesterdjiy. Tlie first time he returned
witli a ])arrot, and the next witli a lar^-e crested lory.
I skinned the weaver-bird and took plumes from both
the parrots. In the evening I made a great stew of

lf?SS
Maruli 5.

Siiigatini.

i , a
1

I'-
ll

220

STORY OF THE HEAR COLUMN.

18H8.
Miircli (5.

Siiigatini.

!§i:J ■ 1

IB'-i :|

-il Ji' H

I ■

I- ''

parrots, lory, &o., wliicli \viis voted a decided suorpss.
The monotony of this existence is awful, and the harder
to bear with tlie consciousness that the fate of Mv
Stanley and his party may hang upon our course of
action ; and yet here we are, unable to move hand or
foot, and prayin*!^ daily for a canoe from Kassongo, that
I, at least, may be able to get hold of Tip])u-Tib. Al)()ut
one third of our force at Yambuya have died, and I fear
many more will die before we leave it.

March 1th. — Sketched one of the chief Arabs liore,
and two women of his harem. No news. A man died
here yesterday, and a good many are sl-.k. It hjt^ks to
me like small-pox.

March Sth. — Finished the sketch of Yahid bin Ilaniis.
Never has life seemed so weary and utterly useless, and
yet one can do nothing to alter it.

March 9th. — I find that most of the unenliglitened
ISlahommedans look upon picture-drawing as a s])ecies
of sorcery, and will not allow me to sketch them at
any price. They say, if you wish to kill the person
you have drawn, vou have only to tear off the head
in the picture, when the subject of the sketch will
certainly lose his or her head. Even the more en-
lightened look askance at it. AVhen I asked Nziue
to let me make a sketch of him, he replied that he
had not quite made up his mind, but would let me
know when he did!

March M)th.^
March llth. > Fever.
March 12th. J

March loth. — Up all day, but still seedy. Have lost
a stone in weight. 1 was to start to-morrow in a canoe,
but in a letter received by old Nasoro it is stated tliat
canoes and letters from 'i'i])])u-'i'ib will be here to-
morrow, so I shall most likelv get awav the dav after.
Nzige urges that it is better for me to go in one of
Tii)pu-Tib's canoes, as the men in the others do nut
belong to him.

DIARY.

221

52^

"Curkt-Etes," the T-tght op the Harem op Yahid bin Hamis,

March 14^A.— Men arrived from Kassonf^o at last. Mafcf'u
Sixty were sent for us, but only fifty-tvro arrived, ei^dit 'singatini*
having died on the road, of small-pox. Tippu-Tib will
uot leave Kassongo until after the return of these canoes,
so I start with them on Sunday. It takes thirty days

*J22

aroiiv Oh' Tin: iu'Iah column.

\ \

^*ii.ii

Mardfi4. *" S«t tlioro, Avc.iry work wlien one is not fit. Tlie
singatini. Mojor is goinj^ back to Yambuya, and will makt.
arrangements to send a white officer down the Conir,,
in a canoe to despatch a telegram and letters to tho
Committee, stating our present situation, and asklii"-
their advice. ^

March \Wi. — Took a stroll for the first time (lurin<r
the last six days. The Major is arranging with ^zi<;(>
about a canoe. One of the head Arabs who live licrt',
Nasoro bin Saef, arrived to-day, returning from a bi;;-
slave and ivory hunt. There was the usual amount of
sliouting and shooting. It almost always rains liere now
at daybreak or in the evening.

March IQtth. — Nasoro bin Saef brought letters to the
Major from Troup. All is right at Yambuya, exce])t
that three of the men from Kassongo have got small-
pox. Nasoro bin Saef had seen two deserters from
Stanley's force, who are now at Abdullah Karono-o's
camp at Unaria. They had been there over two montlis,
and asserted that Stanley had taken five months to reach
the point at Avhich they deserted. Seven of them loft
together, and it took them a month in a canoe, coniiiiii-
down stream, to reach Abdullah's camp. The canoe
had been upset, and five of them were drowned or eaten
by the cannibals. The native villages they had come
to before they deserted were very large, but on tlie
approach of the force the natives crossed to the other
side of the river, so there was little fighting. All the
« white men were well. Stanley had been wounded near

the ankle by an arrow, but was all right again. At a
village above Unaria, Abdullah found a rifle and })ieccs
of cloth.

March 11th. — Spent most of the day looking at
canoes, as the Major wants to buy two for Ward to

go down river in.

weary hunt among rotten ones.

He succeeded in getting one after a

. .: J.

1 |«f N

1 jj

JHiJi ' «g

B';a

1 ■ ■

alas

A ISavage taking his base. — Stanley Taees.

EXTJIACJ: ntUM LluTTER.

*223

1 1

FROM A LETTER TO MRS. JAMESON.

Stanley Falls,

Upper ('onjjro,
March 17th, 1888.

... At last, after all these long weary months, I think i««8.
there is a chance of a letter reaching you. Not one ^g'°'^j^^*
word have I licard from you since that letter written ^ScS
from Italy, dated April 28th, 1887, now all but a year
a<jo, and you can imagine liow anxious I often feel.
In iny last letter to you in August, I told you that by
some bad luck we might be left in the cam]) at Yam-
bin a until Mr. Stanley's return in No\ember. But,
aias! lie has never come back, and we are there still.
1 only left it the other day, with Barttelot, to come here

224

STORY' OF TUF. HE All C'iLUMN.

fji

March 17.

Stanloy
Fulk

Mini

nil

f I

ill'Ui

and soc 'rippu-Tib, but be is at Kassonj^o, aboiif ?,no
miles from bere, lii<j;ber uj) tbe C()n<j;(), and not far from
Lake 'I an<;anyika, and I liave to start off in a ciiiioc
to-morrow, and do tliirty weary days' journey to sec the
great Tippu-Tib, and force liin^ to come to deHnitc
terms once and for all, Tbe Mnjor «>^oes back to \\\w\.
buya, and will send two canoes down tlic Congo with
letters and n wliite officer to send a telepram tM the
CcMimitt'^r in London, telling tlu m of tbe serious situa-
tion, nnd a king tJieir advice. Tbe last report of
Stan]( \'s (.'uvty ibat is at all autbentic was l)r()nf|jht
here } >terc-:" by an Arab wbo bas been at an Arab
camp a long \\:y bigbcr up tbe Aruwimi Iliver tlian

Yambuyf According to bim, it must liavc tak(>n

Stanley tbe wbole time, in wbicb he meant to go to the
Lake and return to our camp, to get to tbe ])oint on
the Aruwimi River at wbicb the deserters left liim!
We have not heard a single word of really authentic
information about him, and not one atom of news seiiu
personally by him, so we take it for granted that he is
in a very bad scrape of some sort, and evidently in such
a position that he is unable to get any news out to us.
I will now tell you our part of the history. On August
2ord, the men from Ti]>pu-Tib never having anived,
Barttelot sent me oft to Stanley Falls to interview Tippu-
Tib personally on the subject, and I did not return until
September 12th. My interviev/ with him was mi-st
satisfactory ; he made the most plausible excuses for the
non-arrival of his men, and gave the most gushing pro-
mises of instant aid. The result of all these promises
was that after many weeks sixty-four men arrived, which
small number was of not the slightest use to us. Bart-
telot then went in October to Stanley Falls, and tliere
saw Tippu-Tib, who informed him that he could not
get the men there, and must go to Kassongo to o1)taiii
them. He left for that purpose early in November, but
up to the present date he has only sent us two hundred
men altogether. You can imagine how utterly helpless
we are, and how utterly dependent upon Tippu-Tib,
when I tell you that we have already lost fully one

V-„

EXT Jl ACT FROM LETTER.

225

third of our eiitii'(^ forrc ;it ^'ainbuya Camp from sick-
iK'NS, and that I do not l)C'licvo wo could ])r()du(!(^ t'ifJjhty
icailv sound ciirricrs to-moiTow, and yet we have hotv.con
si\ and son on liundrod loads tlioro. 'I'liis liopo do-
tbiTod, and woary wairiii ';, niontli aftor month, witli no
bn<;litor outh)ok, is horrihlo work, far, far worso than
any amount of ha.'dslii)) and ti<;litin<i;. ^;o stoanuM- has
biTi! up 'ho Con^o sinco tiio ono tliat cam(; to us in
Aufi'tist, so that wo are (;om[)l(»toly sliut oft" from all fho
world. . . . When 1 look ahoad and soo nothing- hut
darkness, and no signs of its hrijj^liteninjj^, it drives mo
nearly mad at times, if my interview witli 'i'ij ,Mi-'rih is
s(itisfa(;tory, 1 may oxpoc't to Ijo hack at ^'amhr; t .^ tho
end of tlio second or third week in May, and Hicw we
luive tho wliolo ()()() carriers and 400 tin'liti'-is mk :i we
want from 'l'i[)pu-'ril), or as many under tin;; iiii\' ber as
lie can ujive us, wo shall start at once up the i.ako to
relievo Stanley, or at least find out what I"- li"p])ened
to him, and see if Eniin Pasha is still there. If wo do
not meet Stanley bef(jro wo get to tho Lake, and are
detained there for some time, I do not see that wo can
get home much before tho Now Year ; but, on the
other hand, Stanley may turn up any day, in which
case we could be home as soon as the end of
September, or beginning of October. If Stanley is
really in a bad fix, and we succeed in relieving him, I
am afrai 1 that by that time there will bo little hope (^f
our being able to relieve Emin Pasha ; but still we

shall have done all that lies in our power My

pleasures in this existence (I cannot call it anything
else) are few, but the most enjoyable of them was on
the anniversary of our wedding-da^, when we had quite
a feast in camp. We killed an enormous goat which
Tippu-Tib had sent me as a present, and feasted right
royally in your honour. We ate to your long life and
happiness, for we had nothing to drink it in. I have
done a great deal of drawing and painting in my diary,
and am looking longingly forward to the day when you
and I shall go through it all. Ever since ^Ir. Stanley's
non-arrival in November there has been a sort of gloom

1«S8.
Aliirch 17.

Stimley
Fulls.

.. <'

^^::^^^^

! I '! 7 1i I

22G

STour or 77//; itrAU column.

1R88.

March 17.

Stiinloy
FalU.

ovrr iill of IIS in "^'ainl)!!)?! Camp, Rf)moti]nos bri«;]it(>n(d
u)) hy tlio HOWS of }i|)|>roiuliiii<jf liclp from 'I'ippu-Tii,^
only to 1)0 mwiXv (linker by the liclj) l)('in«^ pnt off tnr
in(l(!finito months. It is a ssul, sad si«jjlit, to sec hkih
(lyin^ round you every day and not to be able to puf
out a band to save them, ^^'itll()ut a sinji^le fiojit ^y,,
have lost close ujxm seventy men out of our small
force, and there are many more who, T am sorry to sav.
will uever leave that cam)), or, if we leave it, must ho
left there to die. I have had my turn of health and
sickness, but I must thank God that I have been in
better health than almost any other officer. . . . 1 have
learned nearly the whole of the ' Lifi^ht of Asiii ' hv
heart, and there is somethiufjf of real comfort in tlii'
many beautiful truths contained in it. I am scndinir
you a small tele<>ram, just to tell you I am well, as 1
know you will value one small one from me more rhan
the long one that goes to the Committee! 1 am afiaid
I shall arrive at Zanzibar with literally nothing but a
few rags upon my back. As Stanley would not givo
me another carrier, I had to send a lot of really necessary
clothing, &c., to England, in order to be abl{» to cany
my ammunition and collecting-things. I will write yon
another long letter from Kassongo which I will send to
Zanzibar. I am going alone, Avith only an inter] )rot('r
and two boys. It seems so sad to have to go all tlu^
way to Kassongo (so far on my way to Zanzibar), and to
have to turn back again. And now good night and
good-bye ; kiss the little ones for me, and may God
keep you all in His safe keeping. . . .

DIARY {continued).

March ISih, Sunday. — Started for Kassongo at last.
I am sorry to say I left the Major very seedy indeed.
and I attribute both our illnesses principally to the
want of proper food. We have had nothing to eat bnt
fish, seldom fresh, boiled to rags in a little water,
plantains and sweet potatoes soaked in palm-oil of the
coarsest description, and scarcely cooked. I had to

i'..i.

> t

il>l>u-'ril).
It oil' tur

iv to |)Ut
' fili'llt U(>

)nr small
TV to S!iy.
, TTiust bo
ciiltli and

O 1)('(M1 ill

, . 1 Imvo
Asia' by

)rt in the

tn s('ii(liii<r
woll, lis I

move than
am afraid

liiii^" but a

j. not ^ivo
necessary
\ to carry
^vvito you
11 send to

intov])Vot('r
«j() all tlio

lar), and to
niii'ht and
may God

p;o at last.

ly indeed.

lly to tlic

to eat but
tie ^vater,
-oil of the

I tiad to

DIAHV.

227

wait two hours wliilo Nzi^c tinislied his letters, and to
uliih' away \\\v. time Nasoro fj^ave m(» al)out tlie hest
curried fowl 1 \m\v ever eaten, and 1 did not waste
citlioi my time or the fowl ! We ^ot away at 2 o'(dock
and camixMl at a village called Atkalela* at dark. I
slept in the canoe, as there were only uhout four square
vanls of o])en jjjround, uj)on which all tin* natives lay
iiiound the fires. 'I'he smoke was so (lens(> that the
in()s(iuitoes had no chance of living, and human heinj^s
l)Ut a i)oor one.

1888,
Miircli 18.

Alkalulu.

m t

< ,i

March V.Hh. — Started at daybreak and kept steadily
on all day until '5 o'clock. The banks c()ntinue the
same as lower down, thickly covered w ith dense tropical

vi-iictaticm.

2f'(rch 20///. — We sent the canoes up over the ra])ids
omptv. and carried all the ivory and loads round by land.
The path was a <^ood one, and we did it in little over
an hour, aft(>r which we journeyed on in the canoes till
sunset. I a«j:ain slept in the canoe. Had a bad niij^ht;
there was a lot of water in tlie canoe, and the Kassonji^o
natives are perfect devils at ar<jjuin<j^ all ni^^ht at the toj)
of their voices. You sto]) them, but in about ten
minutes, just as you are droppin<r off to sice]), you will
JK'ar a whis])er, which soon swells into a louder dis])ute
than ever. The village we stopped at, in common with
the whole group on this bank, is called Yankewe. I
tind all the villages are built in groups, each group
hearing a separate name. From the ra])ids (wli(>rc
we had to portage) to Yankewe it is navigable for a
steamer, biit the numerous rocks make it very dangerous.
( ne very bad passage cannot be avoided. When we
camped, the natives came down in great numbers. They
are a very wild-looking set of fellows, many having guns.
Their spears are quite different from those used below
Stanley Falls and on the Aruwimi River, being very
lon<>; in the shaft, and having a short broad blade, some-
times not longer than three inches. They brought a

* See Map.

ill '

' m

22b

i^Tour or Tilt: ulau column.

ill

-1i

^ H

' L i-j^^

I ., . ■'

Mr Bow Paddle.

1888. small chimpanzee to sell, but wanted a gun for it, so I
March 20. (j^^^^^j ^^^ \)•^^y j^ j^ ^yc^g ^ comical beast, and tlie very

" '^^''" image of the one at the Zoo, though not so large. I
saw the first limestone to-day since passing a small
river near 15anza Manteka, below Stanley Pool. Tlie
banks of the river opposite Yankewe are limestone,
with some very pretty caves in them.

DfAJiV.

220

^Jarrh 1\st. — '!ViTil>Iy slow dny's work, only ^'i>i!i^
for some time at the into ot' one niilc an lioiir. We,
stiiifol Ix'torc (layl)r('ak, and soon passed ten canoes CmU
dt' iiKMi iVotn Kjissoijf^o, in cliarj^e ot" an Aral), liaeliid
hen Serur. lie stopped and came into onr canoe, and
told me lie did not know it' any of the men in tliem
were for ns, hut that five ot" the canoos were for X/i}j;o.
He (lid not know the nund)er of men, and I conld not
count them, as they were all mixed uj) with l)oys and
women. He said that Tippn had sent an Aral) to
Ijiji for men, and that h(» thouf^ht 'l'i))pii-'ril) would not
IciiNc Kasson<ijo until after Uamadan, which is in May.
The hank on our left is com])osed of sandstone rock,
and very stee]). ^^'e ))assed numerous villajj^es, the
natives of which wanted to exchan<ije canoes for fj;uns,
tli(> price of a canoe hein*;- one fjjnn. »Sonie of the
ciiiioe landin<j[-pla(!es would make i)retty sketch(>s. They
arc clefts in the sandstone rock, with ste|)s worn or cut
in them, risin<i: from a small open s|)ace at the water's
cd^e, from which sj)rin^ «^iant-stemmed trees, with
festoons of enormous creepers han};in<^ from them. The
whole ])icture should lie in deej) shadow, with a streak
of l)ri<j:ht sunlight falling through the trees, from high
u|) in the cleft, on the dark forms of the natives as they
sit or stand round the bases of the giant stems. We
("iinp(>d at AVonyakimhi, a village in charge of some of
Tippu's Arabs, where I secured a hut, and passed a
much better night than the last, although the mos-
(juitoes were bad. ()p])()site the village lies a low, long,
^nass-covered island, with a number of hippopotami
on it.

March. ^'Ind. — Started at daybreak and reached A\'a-
manga Ka))i(ls about VI o'clock. Here we ])assed three
canoes full ol men from Kassongo, belonging to Tip})U-
Til), but I. don't thiidv they were for us, as they w re
most of them the white-shirted Tamba-'land)as. Pitrlied
my tent and made a sketch of the ra})ids. The natives
luTc w(>ar large ear-rings of semicii'cular teeth.

Mardi 2or(/. — It was almost a quarter (jf a mile to

ISHS.

Wnliva-

kiinbi.

! I

2"0

ISTORr OF Till': LiEAli iJOLUM}!,

1888.
March 23.

Wamanga.

l-'i

I , ! I

where the rccal ra])i(ls beyau. Here tlie wliolo river
rushes tlirougli a pas8a<^e not more tlian one luiidrctl
yards wide, and at very low water not more than sixty.
Everytliing was taken out of the canoes and carried un
to the head of tlie rapids by tlie Kassongo natives, or
Wagania, as tliey arc caHed. to a distance of about two
miles. The natives of Wamanga hauled tlie canoes up
the rapids, and in many places over tlie bare locks.
I'hey are paid at the rate of an axe for every canoe.
The canoes and all the loads reached tlie head of tlie
rajuds at mid-day, hut not a foot further than this ])()iiit
would the men go, although I used strong languiiiic
and swore that Ti])])u-Tib would have vengeaiicc* on
them. Eventually 1 had nothing to do but to ])it(]i iiiv
tent and make the best of it. (lOt another sketch of
the ra})ids. The view is not at all unlike ^lillais's land-
scape " The sound of many waters," strange as it iiiav
seem.

March 2ith. — Started at daybreak. After somt
hours came to rapids, and ])assed the month of the
Waimdwy Kiver, which looks ab(mt the size of tlie
Cliopo and Wainanga I'ivers, but from the little cunoiit
in it I should not think it is large. The colour of the
water is rich dark brown, cpiite different from the muddy
waters ')f the Congo, ^^'e stopped for the night at
Bangingele, which is under Tippu-Tib's Arabs. I slept
in the canoe, as we were to make an eaiiv start. At tli(>
rapids we met two canoes full of men from Kibouiie.
They told me there was a man named Mirabu at
Kibonge, who had seen Mr. Stanley a long time auo,
far u]) country, still on his road to the Take: there
Stanley had given him two guns, and had s])ok(Mi of
boxes which he wished to get to our camp. This was
all I could elicit from Faiani, whose Eimiisli is vcrv
im])erfect.

Ifffrrh 2^) lit, SuiirJaf/. — Started before daybreak and
reached Kibonge, about o.oO p.m. It is a large phuo.
more than twice the size of Singatini. Then^ nvo a
great number of Arabs, evid(uitly fnun all parts, here,

'^1 ll' "

1 '

DIARY.

283

iM rl: •

t\ :

*u-'-- ■

1^7

^\\'i

ElBONQ^.

Tliey gave me my choice of two houses, telling me to
ask for wliatever I needed, and brought me one bowl of
the most delicious tliick milk and anotlier of fresli milk.
I am in luck, as I have every symptom of a dose of
dvsentery, and tlie milk is the very tiling I wanted.
They have four cows here ; there were six, l3ut two died
from the fly and eating bad grass. They also gave me
lovely ripe bananas and guavas, but, alas ! I could not
eat them, 'i'he chief Arab, Kibonge, is away, but his
representative, Sala bin Ali, did all he could for me ;
lie assured me that men from this place had met
Stanley very far up the Aruwimi River, wlien he had
left forty sic^k men with tliem, and given their guns
into the Arabs' charge. Tliere is one Arab here from
Madagascar wlio speaks a little French, but it is very
difficult to understand tlie little lie does speak. The
whole ])lace is under the chieftainship of Kibonge, an
Arab wlio came from Madagascar, and who has given
his name to tlie town. II(^ is himself subservient to
Said bin Abede, whose hetidcjiiarters are at Nyangwe.
His people hunt for ivory and shnc^s. ])riiicipiilly to the
N. East; in this way they avoid interfering with the

284

i^TORY OF TUK REAR COLUMN.

1888.
Marcli if).

Kibuuge.

\\:

followers of other Anihs. Althon<jjh I Avas ii;iveii u
lioiise, I could ill no way call it my own. Every Arab
here appeared to have sent his women to see me, and
they Avere re<ifularly ushered in, ahout ten at a tiitu".
Every Arab who knew any language but his own at-
XMnpted to interview me in it ; I was tried in English.
Fiencli, and Hindustani. Added to this my host starU'd
a band of drums and women singing, so altogether I
had rather a bad time of it.

March 2()th. — Ali bin Hanis savs there are no dc-
serters from Stanley's force here. The report arose
f'l'um the fact of the forty sick men having been left with
the Arabs, to wliom also Stanley gave their guns, ^ith
orders to keep them until his return along that road.
Spent most of the day and half the night in writiii^i;
letters to Mr. Stanley and the Major ; the one * to
the former I am sending to l^ituri, the place where tlio
Kibfmge men met him, as it may find him on his
return, or before we meet. I find that Kibtmge is an
independent chief, only slightly subservient to Said
bin Abede. Kib(mge, Said bin Abede, Said bin I labib.
Muni Mahara, and Ilamcd bin Ilamis, chief of l(il)a-
liiba, are among the important Aral) chiefs, who owe,
no allegiance to Tijipu-Tib, and only act with him in
any commcm cause, each owning a separate district for
slave and ivorv huntinu:. In a very few years, ^ should
say, these Arabs will liave overrun the whole of Central
Africa. There is no road between this and Stanley
Falls. The general opinion here is that Stanley has
met with no mishap. I was badgered the whole day
by interviews with all the Arabs, and finally refused to
see or to be seen by any one Avho was not of gicat
importance, the female element being entirely kept out.
The Kibonge ])e()ple ])resented me with a large sack of
rice and a sheep. My host, whilst striving to i npress
upon me the im])ortance of such a present, told me he
was one of the chief men at Kibonge, and had given me
his h'nise. .iiid suggested that I should therefore give

* See 'life of Edinund Mus^rave Harttelot,' Appendix III.

DIARY.

235

Native of Wa manga.

him a whole piece of handkerchief, and ten matakas for
each of his women, of whom he has fifty ! '^Cibonge's
representative, Sala bin Ali, also presented ae with a
sack of rice and a quantity of delicious limes ad guavas.
My liost, I am sorry to say, has been more or le3S intoxi-
cated with palm-wine during the whole jf my stay
here.

1888.
IMaroii 2().

Kibonge.

March. '11 th. — My host, one Kapruta by name, told
iTK^ a loug story last night of how he had met Stanley
on his road across Africa at Nyangwe. I started from
here with a fat-tailed sheep (only so in name!), two
sacks of rice, a lot of guavas and limes, and a lai'ge
hniuUe of sugar-cane — all presents from ;he Kibonge
folk. They have a donkey here as well as the cows.

1888.
Marcli -27

Kibongu.

■I'M
: I

23b

STORY OF TJIH It /'J A It COLUMN.

The town is liir<jjcr than I at first supposed, qiiit(> four
times as big as Siiigatini, and tlie gardens extend to a
great distance. 'I'hey say it is very unliealtliy, fever
being })revalent, owing to tlie cold and damp. It seems
to be a great centre for ivory trading, which is of
course accom])anied by slave-dealing. AVe did not
get away until 11 o'clock, ]n'incipally owing to Assad
Farran, who was loafing al^out on his own account,
hunting for onions, and I had men out searcliing for
him for over an hour. The liead AraV)s a|)})ear to
lead a very idle life, leaving all the slave and ivory
hunting to their followers. My host, a decidedly low-
caste Arab (if one at all), spent his evenings in the
midst of his fifty women, with a band of Kass()]in;o
drums and rattles playing incessantly, wliilst tlie women
grunted and squeaked a most unmelodious cliant.
Tliis was generally kept up till midnight, thougli I
think the time of duration greatly depended u])()n the
amount of palm- wine he had drunk. We did a good
day's work, cam])ing about 5.30 amidst splendid timber
on the river-bank. I had to kill the sheep, whicli,
having been tied to the bottom of the canoe, was neaily
dead from the heat of the sun. I find that a |)resent
of a few matakas to the men in the canoe has a won-
derful effect; they worked splendidly, to-day. Five
canoes have joined us from Kibonge, so onr fleet
consists of seventeen canoes, and a pretty picture they
make, winding up the river with their white awnings
and red and white flags, beneath the shadows of the
tall dark forest trees.

March 28^/i. — So far the birds and butterflies are
the same as on the Aruwimi River. Last night the
mosquitoes were terrible ; they simply dragged the
handkerchief off my face ! ! Some of our camping
places are the most swampy, feverish spots I have ever
seen, notably the one we camped in this evening. As
caravan after caravan camp in the same place, without
paying any attention to cleanliness, the condition of
these resting-places can be better imagined tlian de-

DIARY.

237

scribed. Assad Farrnn s;iys lin lias liad a bad f(»v(>r, ./^''*,^-.,
but I think lu^ lias ovoiviitcii liinis(>lf on onions, 'ilic ",.., ".'

river-banks here are low, but

line.

the timber is very to k

ISl

ikii.

March 2^fh. — Did tlu^ bi>st day's work since we
started. We kept in close to the bank on our ri^lit,
nnd althonij;h there were many villau;i;s on the other
side, we did not i^'o near them. The men say that tlu^
natives livin<^ between our hist resting'-] )lace and the
mouth of the Uoba Kiver are a very bad lot. Hie
Arabs can do little or nothinLij with tlitun. Almost all
the villages have asked at ditlerent times to have a man
from the Arabs stationed -with them, bnt as it always
ended in their beinfi; eaten, they have j;iv(Mi np sending
them. These villai>es and the Roba River beloni;' to
the Kibonpje hnntin£i;-<ijronnds. The Roba River Hows
due East, but, as far as one can see up it, comes from
the N.E., and is very densely pop'ita'.'^d ; the natives
are said to be very dancjerons. INea'ly all the villai»es
here have a number of ii^uns, thns beinijf on a more
o([ual fo()tinf>- with the Arab settlements. We had
some s])lendid canoe racing in the evening. I shall thank
Heaven when this monotonous journey is over. 'J'he
scenery never varies : nothing to be seen bnt timber,
water, and low islands, and one's only ])ossible attitude?
is sitting cramped up like a trussed fowl the whole
time.

March 30M. — Reached Kasuku, an Arab village at
the mouth of the river of that name. During the last
two or three days I have noticed a great increase in the
number of palm-trees, which makes the vegetation look
more tropical. At mid-day we passed the month of
the Linde, a large river flowing into the Congo on the
left-hand bank, from the East. The Kasuku is not
more than twenty yards wide at its mouth, although
the Arabs tell me that it ccmes from a great distance.
The town is built on both sides of it. On my arrival I
was taken to a small reception shed, and inspected by

il':

2:j6

STORY OF THE HEAR COLUMN,

■?l ,*" h

fi|

]. , J,fVi.i; 4-hi,

" A T ONG SHOVE, AND A STRONG SirOVK. AND Vp SHE GOES ! '*

all the inliabitants, both Arab and native. Presently
March 30. thcy brmght me two enormous baskets of rice, AvJiich
Kasuku. tilled three sacks, four fowls, and thirteen fresh egus,
all of which I was told were presents from the chief
Arab, who was sick and could not see me. I ask(>(l
one of the head Arabs whether the nativ(>s used spears
or bows and arrows, and he replied the latter. He

DlAliV.

239

1 ^

" And down sui; comes with a run."

ordered one of the iifitives to briim- some. The arrows ^i^"^"^-

'^ Mure I i .'JO

are long thin slips of hard wood, not much thicker tlian
a match. Some of them are poisoned and Aory deadly.
On inquiring of the natives wliat the ])oison was and
Avhere they got it from, thc^y re]ilied tliat they obtained
part of it from a tr(>e. and mixed it witli suake poison,
at) well as with portions of the body of a tliild wliicli

Ivaauki

2-40

sroiiv OF Till': rear column.

1888.
Mari'li ;i(>.

Kiisuku.

■Ill'

liiid boon (1(M(1 ji Ion*.' tiino, lioafinu: it all up tofr,.ti|,,,.
in a pot, thus coniposin^* a vtMMtiihlc lioll-hrotli ! I wns
givon a honso to sloop in. 'I'lio woinon's (jicss Iki,.
consists of a tiiin striui;' round tho waist, witli a v(i\
small pioo(^ of olotii liani;in«i; down i)oliind, and a \( t
suiallor sti'i]) of ])lantain loaf iiauninu; in front, wliicli |
think was only put on for the occasion. The iiicii, 1
am ha]ipy to say, arc moro do(;ont, which sooms to lie
tho ("ISO with all tho natives of tho U])por Con^^o. The
lii|)|)os are distinctly on tho incroaso. I would niuch
profor to sloop in my tout, hut ono cannot woll refuse
the chiefs' hosj)itality, when tlu^y turn out tluMnschcs,
ba<>' and ha,i>'i^a,ye, loaviufi' hohiud them, unfortuuatch-,
Icj^ions of smaller inhabitants who are not so easiiv
evicted. I roi^rot to say that the canoe is densely
iidial)itod by more than one species.

March "rtXst. — We started at 9 o'clock, and did not stop
until y P.M. Just before dark, the natives ran the
canoe under a tree, and all but upset us. An Aiiib
ran forward, and administered to one of them a lickiiiii-
with a stick; the other at once jumped overl)();ii(l.
When he ij;()t in, the belaboured man jumped over, hut
after a <?reat deal of talk and many threats we made a
fresh start. Finally, long after dark, we stopped at a
place where I was informed there was no fire-wood, and
therefore I could have no food, and the men refused to
go on. I sent for the head man and told him in veiv
forcible language that iire-wood must be produced, or I
would go on. The fire-wood was produced. It is no
use being complaisant to these head men ; the only plan
is to let them know what you want, and that 5 on mean
to be obeyed. The banks, and in some parts tho
country inland, are now frequently covered witli lon<];
grass, and palm trees instead of forest, and I noticed
numerous buffalo-tracks in these places. My host of
last night evidently distrusted the white man. There
were two hens sitting on eggs in the room I olept in,
and this morning, before we left, he asked leave to come

--^4,i_..

DlAliV.

*J41

in anfl SCO if tlioy woroall tlioro. Althou«;li I took none ''"^.

of the hens' ofjfp^s, I am afraid I took with mo a luimhcr ' "^ '

of the inliabitants of the small species mentioned itivcr.

above.

April Ast^ Siindai/. — Started at the first streak of
liu'lit, and went on until o o'(;lock, when we readied
our (•ani))ing-|)lace. I had pitched my tent and made
rverytliinfif ready for the nijjjht, when tliey informed
inr that they ^^•o^d(l start a<j;ain as soon as the moon
^vas u[), so 1 took down the tent, and slept in the
canoe.

April 2n(L — We started directly the moon was np,
but after a couple of hours had to ]>ut in for shelter to
escape a heavy thunderstorm. A\'hen it cleared a little
wc made a fresh start, but before reaching Riba-lliba
the rain came down in torrents again and lasted until
1(1 o'clock. We have to sleep here to-night. The
diief, Mahommed bin Hamis, is a little old Arab with
very Jewish features, except about the lips, which are
very thin. He placed a house at my disposal, and sent
me an excellent breakfast of curried mutton cutlets and
coffee. After breakfast I got some of the Kassongo
natives and a canoe, and went off to shoot a hippo for
the men. Just opposite the town and at the back of an
island there were two, one of which I shot, and left a
man watching for it to rise. I then went after an old
bull, and fired four shots at him, missing him every
time. He was very mad, snorting and rearing his head
and neck clean out of the water. I was still more
mad ! The rifle was a Remington, with, I should say, a
40-lb. pull, and each time I had to pull so hard it
threw the muzzle up. The men in tlie canoe were
fearfully disgusted ; so was I, so much so that I went
straight back to the town, where I found that the man
whom I had left watching the hippo had been taken away
by the natives, so we never got one after all. I took a
fairly good sketch of the chief. It is a curious ftict
that the Arabs, and I may say all the natives, hold a

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

1.1

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12.2

2.0

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. M580

(716) 873-4S03

U.A

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24-2

f^TOMV OF TIJh: ItEAR COLUMN.

1888.
April 2.

Riba-Biba.

!l i

I i I

■ '

1
i

>^i

<u._.

1
I

picture sideways when they look at it, even after thev
understand it. Landscape is (piite heyond them ; witji
any amount of explanation they do not understand a
picture as a whole, althouj;h they will recognize trees
or figures in it.

Mahommed bin Hamis is an independent chief. TIk.
three great chiefs of this cfumtry are Tippu-Tib, Said
bin Abede, and Said bin Ilabib. Then come smli
otliers as Kibonge, Mahommed bin Ilamis, and Mimj
Mahara Tipi)u-'rib's two chief towns are Kasson^n
and Singatini, at Stanley Falls. Said bin Abode's lu>a(l.
quarters are at Nyangwe, as are also Said bin Ilahib's
and Muni Mahara's. Tippu-Tib owns the Avliole of
Manyema. At first there was much quarrelling and
figliting amongst them, but now they are settled, and each
chief owns large districts, in which they hunt for ivory and
slaves. " llamed bin Mahommed bin Dhuma," bette r
known as Tippu-Tib, possesses three names — Tippu-Til)
or Tippu-Tippu, a name given to him from the sound
of his guns, wlien he first fought the natives ; Mkangwa
Iszala, " afraid of hunger," in reference to an old sayinij
of his that he does not mind a road where there is plenty
of fighting, for there there is food, l)ut a road witliout
figliting means hunger ; and lastly, Mti])oora, '' foot-
ste])s" or "foot-marks." ^^'hen natives come to a villa<i:o
which he has attacked, they look at the foot-marks, and
say, " Tip])u-Tib has been here, it is a bad place, wv
will leave it ! " This latter name, Mtijuwra, is tlie one
by which he is generally spoken of all over the country.
The ])eople of Manyema are cannibals, and the nati^es
between this and Nyangwe are a dangerous lot, and
possess many guns. They have lately looted two canoes
of ivory, taking twenty tusks at a time, and in one
village they received sixty guns in exchange for ivory.
There is not much regular slave-dealing in this country ;
the Arab practice is to capture the native women,
keeping them until they are ransomed with ivory. Tlie
real slaves of the country are the Manyema and Wacusu,
the natives, or AVashenzies as they are called, being con-
sidered too much disfigured by tattooing, slit ears and

niAiiY

243

lips, &c., to possess much value. Tlio Manyt'ma and 1^*88.^
\\'acusu are bou{i;lit and sold as slaves for household J^"^!.
work, agricultural purposes, and for fighting men

,1'

;,i'^

it ears iiiul

April ord. — I tried to get a sketch of some of the
natives in the market, but they would not hear of it, all
ck'claring they would die if I were to draw tliem. Fowls.
fish, plantains, manioc, palm-nuts, ground-nuts, and
Indian corn appeared to be the principal articles for
sale. The chief sent me a breakfast of curried fish and
coffee, and, before I started, two fat Muscovy ducks, and
asked me to wait until the arrival of a goat ordered by
him for me, but I represented to him that I was very
anxious to advance, and could not delay. He was so
kind and civil, without asking for a single tiling
in return, that he quite won my heart. lie tried to
discover, through Assad Farran, what I stood in need
of, and w^hat I should like to have. I gave him my
large pocket-knife, which has been my companion for
years, and is the only one I had, for I had nothing else
of my own, and I did not care about giving Expedition
cloth when I could avoid doing so. He was greatly
pleased. We passed a number of canoes bound for
Kibonge, and with them were two belonging to Tippu-

I '

m ■

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;•;!■■

< ■' ' '

1888.
April 3.

Congo
River.

I i

244

STOnr OF TUB UK Alt CO/MM Jf.

Tib, on tlieir way to Singatini, to one of which I entrusted
my letter to the Major. The head man informed me
that ten men had ah*eady run away, the usual occurriMice
on these occasions. We camped at sunset, when I
roasted one of the ducks with some onions, and feasted
like a king. Scarcely got a wink of sleep ; the rats were
in swarms, and ran all over one — every species of
vermin was largely represented. The house was far
filthier than any Irish mud-cabin that I have ever seen.

April 4:th. — Started at daybreak, and camped at sun-
set. Did not sleep any better again last night, owinj;
to the mosquitoes. The natives we passed seem a
wild set ; nearly all speak Swahili, and some wear white
cloth garments, like the Tamba-Tambas. Their hair is
dressed in a knot at the top of the head, from which
a long fringe hangs down behind. The Arabs appear
to be very much afraid of them, which seems a curious
reversion of their relations, compared with the state of
affairs on the Aruwimi, where the natives only ask to
be let alone. One would certainly have thought that
men like Tippu-Tib and Said bin Abode would have
given them such a lesson that they would not so soon
have recovered it.

April 6th. — I said last night that it was a curious
thing to meet dangerous natives so near Nyangwe and
Kassongo, but they are having their lesson now. At
2 o'clock we passed one of the largest and worst of
all the villages, called Numbi, situated on an island,
close to the eastern bank. When we came within sight
of it, we noticed smoke rising in every direction, and
over forty Arab canoes lining the bank, the owners of
which were camped in the lowest village. It appears
that until a short time ago all the villages near here
were peaceful ; but they lately took to looting canoes,
killing and eating the Arabs in charge of them, and
taking the ivory. These villages are in Said bin Abcdc's
district, and most of the canoes looted were not his, so
complaints were carried to him, and he was told that if
he did not punish the natives other men would, and so

•li^.

DIARY

245

!;ifi;^' ■

Kibonge, his head chief, undertook to do so. It a])])ears
that the rebel viUages,the natives of which the Arabs liave
never been able to tame, commence about a day above
this, and he came down from Nyangwe, destroying tliem
all as far as Numbi, wliicli he attacked this morning.
He is going to wait here for two weeks, tlien go up to
Kibonge for more men, and return to settle them once
for all. lie warned us that we should iind the natives
ill a very dangerous mood, as ])y tliis time tliey will
have returned to their villages, and be ready to take
any op])ortunity of revenge. We found his men
stationed at different points for some distance up the
river, and we camped just before sunset opposite a deep
head in the river, surrounded by native villages. The
(hums began to sound in every direction, and their
(auoes came up very close, evidently not a bit afraid.
The men could not go to attack them, as they ^re not
allowed to leave the ivory in the canoes. The head
men told me that they very much feared a night attack,
and that we must keej) on the alert all night, I then
asked a head Arab from Kibonge, and Nzige's head
men, if 1 should fire a shot at them with my Kemington,
to show them that they were not safe, although out of
reach of the Arab guns. They at once asked me to do
), as it would frighten them off, and very likely prevent
them from coming at night. I got the rifle and sat
down. I fired several shots at the most conspicuous
eanoe, some three or four hundred yards a>\ay, and so
far as I could see hit two or three of the men in it.
Tliere was a tremendous getting away in every direction,
and after putting some bullets right beside two or three
more, there was not a man to be seen. I think it gave
tiiem a lesson, which will be useful to us to-morrow, for
we have to go up the rapids right through tlie middle
of them. After my shots a number of Kibongc's men
came up with their guns and flags ready for a tiglit, and
they were quite disappointed. Helow us, on the oppo-
site bank, are two higli wooded hills, the siglit of which
(lid one's eyes good, for I have seen none since leaving
tlie Lower Congo. The only sleep I get now is in the

1888.
April f).

Numbi.

ikvf

ill

iipril r»,

Congo
Rirer.

II '

■ 1 1

240

STO/n' O/'' 77/ A' Jth'AIt COUIMN.

early inoniiiifjj in tlio ('suhk', as it is im|)ossil)l(' to slcci)
at ni^lit on account of the inosfjuitocs. We passed
some Vi'ry Ijcautiful lii«;li cliff's to-day, of a sort of lime-
stone shale, thickly wooded on their summits.

April Cifh. — I*assed up the rapids and throu^di iIk-
enemy without any mishap. All we saw of them was ,111
occasionjil canoe scurryin*^ across the river in the dis-
tanc(r. There was no venturiiif^ near us to-day, nor
heating of drums in canoes ^oin«^ uj) and down Ix lore
us, like yesterday. The whole character of the livcr
has chaiif^ed ; it is now studded with lon<^ low islands,
destitute! of any trees, save an occasional palm, and the
banks are covered, in some places for a lonj^ way inland,
with hifj;h jjjrass.

April nil. — .\fter a heavy day's work reached Quan<,';i.
a lari((! nativ(! villa«^e under Said hin .Vhcde. The clijct
niad(! a capital subject for a sk(»tch, and althoui:;li ilic
old gentleman was very drunk with ])alm-wine, and

would not sit stil

'•ot

faiil

V J^OOf

1 lil

keness.

II.

had \\w usual hand of drums with him, and every now
ami then would ^et up and dance, j<oin«^ throu<;li tlic
most extraordinary contortions with his body. These
natives aic the \\'a«!:ania, and inhabit \\w. banks between

MS an(

I Ki

issonj'o ; they are not such a savay;(

■loo]

\\\\]i

lot of men as those lowei down the river, and trade only
for white cloth and blue beads, declininj^ matakas.

April Hf/i^ Snnddf/. — Fieft at 8 o'clock, reachinn' the
Ciulunf^uinweze ra|)i(ls at 1 I o'clock, at the foot of wliieli
we left the canoes and walked overland to the top, the
loads Ji^oinii; in the canoes. It took us about an houiaiid
a half to reach the head of the ra|)ids. I lere we stopped
for two or three hours, whilst all hands cooked food, us
we are ^oin<j; on all nii^ht, in order to reach N'yani^we
early to-monow.

It is a very remarkable thin<i;, the sudden chaii^n'
above the ra))ids, in the wlioh; a])pearance of l)oth flie
country and th(» river. Tlu* banks an^ hi^h and finely
timbered, but beyond them the country opens out into

iijJL:.

of l)()tli the
;li and tiiicl}
KMis out into

IHAlil'.

247

a «;i(*a1 i()lliii<< ^n-ass-rovoHMl prairie, willi littlo ])at(li('s ^^^^^-^

of hiisli lien; suid tlioiv, and a few palni-lrocs, uliilc ^.^^j^^^^

tlicrc is scarcely an island to bo so(mi. AVhon J went fr.nnw./o

to sloo)) we woro still steadily jjaddlini;- alicsid. 1 noticed '^"i""'*
no reniarkahle clian<»;e, dnri.n;^r our walk, in either tlie
l)irds or huttertlies, from those of the Aruwinu River.

.//>W/ \)f]i. — The men had a short r(«st of two hours
in iIk^ ni^ht. Af er sunrise we j)asse(l the mouth of
the l^efubu River, flowing' in from the West ; reached
^^!ln^^we between tl and 10 o'clock, and I was (aken
1() the house of a (;hief, Muni Mahara hy name, with
wliom 'I'ippu-Til) always stays. I le is the repres(uitativ(^

^[ '1

-laW!

t^ \

.ij

1 i! ' '

HI''

;

248

STORY OF THE UEAH COLUMN.

% .

,.;■•

• '.

' M

■','■•

m .

. ■,

■' ' ■;*■

•-

\^jm^Lgi

u^&

'Smk

iii^. ■

Wagania Village, near Kassongo.

1888.
April 0.

Nyaiigwe.

li-

I ri

of Mahara, a big chief in Bagamoya. Nyangwc; is com-
posed of three villages, the one on the north b(>iiin-
subject to Muni Mahara, and peopled chiefly by settlers
from Bagamoya ; the central village is owned by Said l)in
Abode, and })rincipally inhabited by Arabs of Zaii/il)ar,
as is also the one on the south, belonging to Said bin
Habib. Muni Mahara's house forms one side of tlie
large square in which the market is held. On my
arrival the natives picked up all the articles they luul
for sale, and tied in the wildest disorder, shouting uiid
yelling at the pitch of their voices. I v/as shown into
the large reception-room, where a great number of Arabs
soon arrived, amongst them an old silvery-haired Aral),
almost blind. The chief asked me if I would stay until
the following day. I sent for Nzige's head man, mIio
promised to try and get the natives to push on about
sunset. I was then conducted to a house, and a man
soon arrived with a large pot full of fresh milk, ripe
pineapples and bananas, a goat, a large basket of rice,
about fifty fresh limes, and some fire-wood — all presents
from Muni Mahara. While I was waiting for my food,
I was inspected by all the inhabitants of the town.
After dinner, the canoes being ready, I went and said
good-bye to the chief, and thanked him for his kindness.

itiiiLkJi

DIAliV.

249

At the landinji^-placo I met tlio brotlior of the cliief
of Riba-Uiba, who was ji^oatly astonished at my speedy
departure, and wlio told me he had sent a man
a wliole day's journey to a \ ina<»;e to hrinjjj me a pi^.
lie is the very imaji^e of liis Inother, and seems just as
nice. We went on until 11 p.m., when we lost our
wav, and finally camped in the middle of an immense*
swamp. The smell of the water and mud was awful,
and tlie mosquitoes were in thousands ; but we killed tin*
•roat, and 1 gave all the men a h\\i feed, dinin«i: myself
off fried liver and kidneys, followed l)y thick milk and
vice, then a pijie — and I slept like a top !

April liHh. — Started before dayliijjht, and reached the
|)oint of debarkation for Kassongo lon<^ after dark. The
river is very picturesque during the last foin* hours, the
l)anks being hilly and wooded, resembling many })arts
of England. I heard (m arrival that 'ri])])u-Tib had
been ill, but was all right again. It would be fatal to
our hopes were he to become seriously ill now.
Curiously enough, with one or two exceptions, we
have escaped 'all storms during our twenty-four days'
journey in the canoe; and though they have passed
on every side of us, we have had but little rain.
Tlic Arabs on the road have made me presents of five
sacks of rice, one sheep, one goat, four fowls, two ducks
and thirteen eggs, besides a quantity of limes, guavas,
l)ananas, ])apaw, and pineapples. We passed Kabanga,
a large native village, between 9 and 10 a.m. This
\illage marks the boundary of Tippu-Tib's territory on
the river, all above it being his.

April lit If. — After a good sharp walk of two hours
we arrived at Kassongo. I went straight to Ti])pu-Tib's
liouse, foUowed by an immense crowd, and after a little
while he came in and greeted me. I had no one to
interpret, as Assad Farran did not arrive for over two
hours. However, Salem Masudi soon came in, and I
told Tippu-Tib I was sorry to hear he liad been ill, but
glad to see him all right again, and that I liad been
sent here by Major Barttelot to speak with him about

isfls.

April 8.

N.VHIlgW*,

1,
. it

■» :

' 'A

' '

llii

III

1 i'Tifl

2h{)

sTonv OF Till': niiMi coufMS.

i t

I .

I 1

1RS8.
April II.

liANiHNci-r'r.At i;, Kash(»n(<(».

certain innttcrs, and that as soon as Assad I'^arraii ;ir-
rivcd, and I liad cliaiifj^cd my wet clothes, I shonhl hkc
to sec him al)out them. II(^ said that a lionse uiis
bein^ prepared for me, and that he woidd come there
to talk with me. I!(^ had not then read his l(»tters from
TS/iij;c, 1 told him of tlu^ kind treatment I had received
from (!very ont^ on the road, and, after partakinii; of cotfee
and ])inea])ple, I was (conducted to my hons(», Salem
Masndi came nj) to see me aft{*r Assad Farran had
arrived, and I tohl him, in Assad's ])resence, that I was
(piite ready to see 'rip|>u-'I'il) at any time, that I should
nse Assad as inter))reter, accor(lin«jj to my definite orders,
and asked him to tell 'I'ippn-Tih, so that he mi^ht hrin^
with him a man who spoke? Arabic;. I waited in all the
afternoon, but he did not come; ho is going to see me
to-morrow.

There is no Kuro))oan news, cxce])t tliat there is no
groat war. At TS^yassa the English and the Arabs have
had a fight, in Avhich the Arabs have been driven out.
They have come to Tij)])u-'rib to ask for men and
powder, which he refused them, telling tlicm that he

Mi'

■'I'

^'^.

j*:.:JE

arrnn ;ir-

1)1 All)'

201

iiiul ill

wnntorl nil Imh powilrr iiiid men in rjisc of liavin^ to
ti<'lit Said hill yXIx'-dc, wliosc fatlirr liad some <lis|iiitr
wifli Tipim-'l il) al)oiit sonio villa^rs wliicli tliry liofli
cliiimcd. Tin' iiialNT was srttlcd hy llic Sultan in
/aM/.il>ar, l)iit on 'I ippii-Tihs arrival licrr Said bin
Mx'dc came and stax'd for two or tlirf'c (lays, and
lit oii((* r(M)p(>n(*d the (piarrcl (liis father had died on
liis way to Miiseat); hut 'lippn-'fih told him that it
heen settled in /an/ihar, and that he would
not talk to him on the suhjeet, as he was only a hoy,
but that his son Sefo, who was youii<,', mi^dit do so.
Said hill AlM'de then said " he had strength <'nou<^li now
t(i settle the matter." 'ri|»pn-'l"ih told him to use it, hut
warned him that if there was a row he would not leave
liiiii a station, and would drive him clean out of the
(oiiiitiy. 'lippn-'lih then went and hiiined the three
villai^'cs in disjuite, and took from them a nuniher of
iiicii, one hundred of" whom he sent to us, and these
were the canoes full of men I met near Itiha-Kiha.
lie has sent away 70(1 men in all ; a iiumher of them
iiiii awav on tln' road, hut a f4;reat many have heen
recaptured, and fifty of them are here now in chains;
.\ssad I'arran saw them as he came in. Tippu-'lih, it
apiiears, has (collected men hy ^'oin^ round personally,
and asking' the different native chiefs for them. On
liis return from this trij), he ^ot a very had attack of
fever, and for two days was not expected to live.

Sah'in Masudi let out one tliin«( which rather corro-
borated the fact of 'ri)))ui-'ri])'s having started in .Juno
for our camp. J asked him if Sefo was married ; he
re|)lied, " ^'es, to liachid's sister." I mentioned that I
liiid never seen Itachid. Salem said, "AN'ell, he uas

<()!nin}i to I'amhnya when we went iij) the yXruwimi,
l)iit 'ri))pn-'rih told him to wait until his retiiiii."

'ri|)j>u-'i'ih, I believe, is ready to start for Sini,nitini on
tlie lOtli day of next moon, which will he April 'l'\\\\.
Sefo, his son, is here. The onlv other news is that the

(iermans liave hired two ])orts from the Sultan of /a
zil)nr for thc^ export of ^um-coi)al, and are not likely to

April II.
KMX'<>iri|{(».

y;ive them uj) aii;ain.

In tl

le eveniiii'

received visits

2^)2

SroitV OF T///-: HKAU (VLU.)fy.

April II
KaHHong

I).

t t

from S(»f'(), Ali l)in Miihoinmcd, and otlicr Arabs, 'llw^
arc evidently very nmcli ])u/zlod at the non-arrival of
any stcain(M- at Stanley Falls np to the time I Kf't, and
I do not wonder at it.

The conntry between the landinj^-])lac'e and this is
fine, open, and hilly, covered witli very lon^ i;ras^.
(Quantities of metammeh, Indian corn, manioc, i^round-
nnts, and sweet ))()tatoes are «>;r<)wn. The j^ardens of
the town extend for a «i;reat distance all ronnd it. 'rii(>
town is biiilt on both sides of the valley, and is v( rv
larjxe. My house is nice and clean, the best Arai)

I :

I 1 1

IMlJ

1 ;i!

Douur.K DuuM, and Sthiker. Copper Mone^ .

honse I have yet been in. The money chiefly used
here is ribas, small pieces of native giass-cloth. Fifty
of these native cloths can be bou<j;ht for six liandkei-
(diiefs ; for one cloth you may buy twenty-five pieces of
dried manioc, or fourteen plantains ; for twelve pieces,
one fowl ; for one hundred, a goat. A man can live
here for two days on one " cloth," or less than half a
mataka. With one cloth he buys twenty-five pieces of
manioc ; with two of these he purchases the gvvcn
leaves ; with three, salt ; with one, oil ; and with anotlier
fire-wood, so that he still has eighteen ])ieces left for
other food. An eshoka, or trade iron axe, can be bought

-•ij^.

DfAitr.

for fivo cloths, or loss than two nintakns. One chjth
will procuro a meusurc of rice just midcr 2 ll)s.

April I2fh. — Ti|)pu was ])usy wiititii; letters when I
went clown to him tliis niornin*^, hut lie ^ave nie a jj^uidc
to show me the town. It is really a very lar<;e ])lacc;
WQ walked for ahout an hour and a half through acres
of rice, Indian corn, metammeh, «S:c., and did not ^o
round a quarter of it. .Iud}j;ini; from the crops, the soil
must he splendid. Ueturned for hreakfast, after which
Salem Masudi came in, and ^ave me the details of the
Nyassa row, in which he declares the Arahs were en-
tirely to blame, so much so that 'i'ippu-'l'ib thouj^ht of
seiulin^ men to take them as pris(jners to Zanzibar.
It !ip|)pears that the Arabs borrowed some money from
a merchant there, and promised to ])ay it back in six
months, in ivory. 'Hiey never ])aid it, and he sent a
clerk to them, whom they insulted and abused. This
liapjjened several times, and at last the merchant went
to the British Consul, Mr. Goodrich (?), who sent for
the Arabs to come in, but they refused to do so. He
sent three times altogether, and the last messenger they
killed, so he went out with his men, and there was a
lijjht. in which the Arabs were driven out.

I asked Salem if he had any idea of how many people
there are here ; he told me no one had. He said it was
impossible to know, for they had no system like ours,
which I explained to him. Supposing one man, he
said, bought twenty slaves of the first class, these in a
short time would each have slaves of their own, and
those others — ad infinitum. No one took any note of
the death of a slave ; when one died they generally
waited till nightfall, and then dragged him along the
ground and threw him into the river, or left him oppo-
site some one else's house. For one load of cloth you
could buy at least twenty slaves. He presently said,
" There is no one here now — it will be a good time for
Tippu-Tib to come," and went out, but soon returned,
saying thit Tippu-Tib had sent him to tell me that, from
Nzigc's letters from Stanley Falls, he knew all that I

lass.

April II.
KaM4iiigo,

, ii

A:iL

1888.
April 12.

KasrioiiffO.

■n .

liHi '

;J!'^

;'?:■

./;;:

254

67'07er OF Till': rear column.

had come for, and he would give us all the men we
wanted, and be ready to start on the 10th of next moon
by which date his brother will have arrived from rjiji.
I told Salem that Nzige did not know all I had to sin-
to Tippu-Tib, and that I must see liim, so I went straii^ht
to him, taking Assad Farran, and told him tluit inv
principal reason for coming was to get him to (Mitor
into a contract for tlie supply of men (especially four
hundred extra fighting men), and to settle about ])!iv.
ment for them. He told me that he would undoubtediv
give us the men, if not 400, then 300 ; that as regarded
the payment of the 600, he would see Mr. Stanley, and
settle it with him, and arrange with us for the 400
extra men, upon our return. I told him tliat, as the
men had been so long coming, Mr. Stanley miglit refuse
to ])ay the money, and that a contract with Major Bart-
telot was really a safeguard for himself, Barttoiot and I
guaranteeing him the money. He then said he would
settle everything with Stanley, and would evidcMitly
have nothing to do with the contract Avith Major Bart-
telot. He assured me three or four times that I need
not be anxious, and promised to leave here on the lOth
of next moon, if I would wait quietly here and go with
him. He stated that he had received letters from Zan-
zibar, where it was reported that Mr. Stanley was dead,
asking him why there was no news of Mr. Stanley, and
what he (Tippu-Tib) was doing, to which he had re-
plied that Mr. Stanley was not dead, and that, Inshallali,
he would get news of him. I strove to impress on liim
the necessity of speed and the value of a contract to
himself, when he reiterated what he had said, and
seemed annoyed at my pressing the point. Two or
three times he tried to speak to me through Farani and
Aramense, but I told him that they did not understand
me, nor I them, so he had to use Assad Farran as in-
terpreter ; he understood nearly every word that Assad
said, without the help of the third man, although lie
used him in answering, as he evidently understands
more than he speaks of Arabic. I decided to accept
his promise and leave him alone for the day, dcferrinj^

le men we
next moon,
from rjiji.
had to say
cut straii^lit
m that my
m to (Mitor
ecially four
about ])in-
ndoubtediy
as regarded
Itanley, and
)r the 4(H)
that, as tlie
licjht refuse
Major Bart-
tteiot and I
d he would
I evidently
Major l)art-
that I need
pn the 10th
,nd go with
from Zan-
Y was dead,
tanley, and
he had re-
, Inshallah,
ess on him
contract to
said, and
t. Two or
Farani and
understand
irran as in-
that Assad
lougli he
nderstands
to accept
, defer riu;];

1 ,!l!

' \;:

•ifliiJl

111 fj . ' ■ i .f i'

i j 1 ; t :

■'i '''■'■ H

! 1 li :

J !

if '^ ? ' ' !
i I ' 1 ■

f .

f*"'

DIARY.

257

mv other questions till to-morrow, as he was evidently
n()t in good humour, and I can see that lie is now as
anxious to see us start as we are to ijfo ; I tliink he has
been hurried up from /an/il)ar. IJe says lie has re-
ceived news, although lie cannot vouch for its truth,
that the king of Unyoro had heen collecting men to
carry out Kmin Pasha's ivory, and escort liim to tlie
coast. He thinks, if this news is true, tliat Mr. Stanley
has gone down the otlier road hy Unyoro and Uganda,
eitlier with Emin Pasha or beliind liim. 1 told him
that had Mr. Stanley done so he would undoubtedly
have sent messengers back to us ; it was tlie want of
news that made us so anxious.

Several of the Arabs called upon me in the afternoon.
Tippu-Tib supplies me with the best of food, and is
('oinir to send me a bowl of milk everv morning.

April Vdth. — Again interviewed Tippu-Tib. I took
down my sketch-book with me, and 1 am glad I did so,
for I got him into a splendid humour. The sketch of
Yahid made him roar with laughter, but when he came
to that of the chief of Riba-Iliba he snatched it up,
and went off with it to Sefo, Ali Mahommed, and some
other Arabs, when I heard them all laughing, lie
came back presently in an excellent humour, and gave
me a good deal of news, lie told me that all the Indian
merchants in Zanzibar, and all English subjects, had
celebrated the Queen's Jubilee for three days, scattering
presents broadcast to everyone. The Germans have
},'ot Dar el Salem, and several other ports. Tippu-Tib
says there are a great many discontented peo[)le in
Zanzibar, who are only waiting for an opportunity to
ask Germany to annex it, and pension the Sultan, and he
asked me what England would do. I told him that if
they took it against the Sultan's wish he could appeal
to the Powers of Europe ; that they would call a congress
and settle the matter ; and I added that I thought two
strong voices against its being taken by Germany would
be those of England and France. It would be a death-
blow to Tippu-Tib's aspirations were Germany to take

1888.
April 12

Kusaongo.

I in

. )

/I :

r \

! 1

1 1

isas

April 15.
KaMMJiigo.

258

switr OF Tin: UNA II volumn.

'/an/ibiir, niid I find liis Hspinitions arc cnormoMs. f;ir
«j;r('iit(M' tlum most people; tliiiik. An Anil) arrived Ik i,.
to-day from /an/ihar, and I hear tiiat, n|)on liis relum
from Stanley I'alls, Tippu-'rii) is ^oin<; to «>;ive liim
1, ()()() men, with ^uns ; his destination is ji ^oldcomitiv
south of Laivi; ltan<z;iiela., :is far as I can make (in.
'J'ipj)U-'l'ih constantly cpicstions mv very closely iihont
uU tin; parts of Afiica where «i;oId is found. I winiicd
liiiri that if lu; (crossed the; /andx'si Ik; woidd have to
fi^ht cither tin; Matahcle or Khania, (Mther of \\]\< m
would l)(; far too stronfjf for any tliousand men of his.
1 told him that north of tlu; /aird)csi 1 thou«>iit iIk.
liarut/i were; tlu; stron<>;cst. II(; (widently means to
liave th(! whole country np to l.akc; Albert Nyan/;i, ;iii(l
(jiod knows how much of the (.onj^o. His sf)n Sj'l'o is
not fJJoin<j; to he chief, and the fjjreat fi«4;htin<.i; uiiin I
thouf^ht he was, for \w is ^oin«^ to !VI(H;ca, which pro-
hihits him ever afterwards from doin«j; anythiiiu- Imt
])rayin^. (J have since heard that Ik; has «riven up tins
idea.) He has two other sons, ho\V{;ver, and Uachid,
h'zii^c's son, will, I l)(di(;ve, be a very ^reat man.

J ask(!d Ti|)pu-Til) who would command tlu; Trieii lin
S(Mit with us, and he told uw. \w, was j^oinjj; to ask Sciiin
Mahommed. I told him he was the very man Major
]iarttelot wanted ; that of course, as ho would coirnnjiiid,
and «^iveall onUus with re«ijard to marchin^jjand fif.;htiii<,',
it would be a splendid thin«j; to have a man whoir) we
all knew and liked. lie; said that if Selim would not
go, \u) would ^ive us the very best man he could. I
next asked him for a definite date, at which all the men
would be delivered, and we could leave Yambuya Cainj).
He said h(; th()U«j;bt the 1st of June would be tlie very
latest, and he (certainly thouj^ht it would be before tlicii,
for he would only wait one; day at Sinjijatini, and come
on straif^ht to the cam)) himself, lie is evidently now
in a d(!Sperate huiry to ^(;t »is off. There an; two
causes for this, — 1st, lu; has bec^n humed u]) from Zan-
zibar ; 2ndly, he has other big games on hand, which lu;
cannot attend to until we go. I cau see ])erfectly that
he leaves very little for others to do. 1 asked him when

DlAliY.

259

n'lnoMs. f;ir
nivcd licK!
Ins return
^ivc liiiii
old cowiiUy
make ( lit.
)sely iil)out
1 wiinicd
uld liiive to
T of ^vll' iM
men ol" liis.
lion^lit 'lie
V nutans ti)
Syim/:i, iind
, son Seiu is
itin^' niiin I
, wlncli pro-
iiytliinji; Imt
riven iij) this
and Uiicliid,
man.

th(^ men lio
to ask Selim
man Major
(1 coniMiand,
md lij^ldin^,
n whom we
In wonld not
le eonl<l. 1
li all the ineii
bnyaCani]).
bo tlie very
before then,
li, and come
idently now
»rc ar(! two
p from /an-
d, which lie
erfectly that
3(1 hini when

I rould send a letter to Major IJarttelot, and he said
there wer(^ men jtist start inij;, and that if I wrote it

1RR8.
April \X

niK

kly it

eon

^'"

to-di

So 1 went straiir

ht I

iom(>

UH.SOII

go-

wrot(! my letter nnd sent it off; then went ont and
iTiadc^ a sk(!t(di of tin; town from th(^ eastern sicU; of the

valley.

I heard an exsimplo to-day of how 'lippu-'l'ib <j;ives
slaves to poor Arabs. When h<^ left his plaee to collect
iTien for ns, two Arid>s went with him to Nyan^we, and
in each villaj^e they stop|)ed at Tippu-Tib (tailed ont a
lot of th(? jx'ople, women and (-hildren, and ask(?d
i\\v. Arabs to tak(? their pick. NVhen they reached
Nyan}i;w('*, one man had lift(;en slaves, the other over
twenty.

AjU'il 1.4///. — There are three classes of people in
this conntry — Arab jijentleinen, shives, and nativ(^s or
^^'ashen/ies. An Arab f^jentleman in this land may
])av(^ heen of a very inferior class in his own. One of
theses }j;(mtlem(^n, — a ^n^at swell w ith lots of ivory and
slaves, — on his road to /an/ibar, cann' h(*r(; with ns
from Kib()n}j;(% and told Assad Farran that he had hrft
TeluMan when a (thild, and had been a servant to some
Knropeans in Mns(tat, from whi(;h |)lac(^ Ik^ Inid ccmo
to Zanzibar, and is now (^uite a great man in his way.

Ajuil \r>fh,, Snnda?/. — S])ent the whole foreiuxm in
writin<^ to Mr. Ma(tkinn()n ; 'rij)j)n-'rib will send my
letters liy sp(!cial mess(M>«^ers to-morrow morninji;. Heforo
dinner J went for a walk round th(' town, and tin; more
I se(! of it i\u) mow. I p(U('.eive what a (piantity of wealth
there is in the soil. Aftc^r dinner I walk(;d nj) ov(t
th(! hills to th(^ south, and <jfot a beautiful vi(!W across
th(^ valley to the hills on the road to Ujiji (eastward).
I met two nativ(;s of Unyanembi, wild-looking
devils, with great featluir hats, and bells on tlnnr legs,
under the kn(»e. I'hey j)romis(!d to c()m(; and be
sketched to-morrow. The great success of the day,
liowev(!r, is a |)roinise from Tipj)U-Til) to let nu' make a
sketch of him. How 1 wish 1 could do him justice!

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1888.
April If).

KuHBongo.

STfJltV OF Till-: ItEAli COLUMN.

LETTKK TO MRS. JAMKSON.

KasHonpo,
April I oil,, l,sS8.

From the dopartnro of Mr. Stanley in .Iinu;, uiitil
the arrivHl of i\\v. S.S. Stanleu in Aujjjust, \v(! Imd
heard uothinj^ what(;ver of the promised men fiom
Tipi)U-Tib, without whom we could make no move
after Stanley. On his dej)arture in June, he had told us
that, should we not be abh; to eomci after liim, he would
b(i back at the camp in Novemluu' ; but XovcMiihcr,
I)(;cember, January, and February (tame, and still W)
news from Mr. Stanh^y, and no men from 'J'ij))m-Til).
.... I left Stanl(?y Falls on March 18th, and readied
Kassongo on April 11th, havin<j^ been twenty-four davs
in the canoe. It generally takes thirty days, but twice
we ])ushed on all night as well as day. Wliat a wcaiy
journey that was, sitting all day in the canoe, douhlcd
up like a trussed fowl, and at night oft(m slee])ing there
too, devoured by mosquitoes, or, if on land, lying in
the middle of a swamp, and how terribly hot it was!
I had little or no medicine with me, and scarcely any
clothes, as when I left Yambuya I had not the remotest
idea that I should have to go upon this journey. How-
ever, the Arabs were very kind to me all along the
river, and made me presents of all sorts of food, so that
I arrived here quite fit, in spite of having been veiT
seedy for the first week, from a bad touch of fever at
the Falls. Tij)pu-'rib has given me his word that he
will give us all the men we want ? he will leave this on
the 24th inst. for Stanley Falls, and has asked me to
go with him, lie will make no agreement about the
money or anything except with Mr. Stanley, but that
does not matter to us provided he gives us all the men
we want. Tippu told me that he had received letters
from Zanzibar, where it was reported that Stanley was
dead, asking him why there was no news of him, and
what he, Tippu-Tib, was doing. He had replied that
Stanley was not dead, and that he would get news of

him I was up nearly all last night writing to

Mr. Mackinnon. . . .

im'TEii.

201

April 16//i. — Ni«;ht aj^ain, luid time to writr to you.
Vou have no idea what a lot of sketching I have done.
My diary at Yaird)iiya ( ainp is very nearly on(3 l)a^(' of
writing and th(;n one of (hawin«^ all throuj^li. I used
}it first to copy fi«^uros, and faces (hawn l)y Ward, but
wlien I left for Stanley Falls this last tiiruj I took to
(hii\vin<^ human fij^ures, witli and witliout clotijes, my-
self. 1 am awfully anxious to make a sketch of 'ri|)|)u-
Tih, hut my h(;art fails me every tinu; 1 think of it, for
he is a difficult suhject, and I um anythiufjj else you may
lik(? to call me hut a portrait ])ainter. 1 sent home a
lot of drawinf^-])a|)(!r which I could not carry, and now

I would willin<i;ly give a guinea a sheet for it

'X\\i\ Major and 1 have been thrown more tog(;ther than
any of tlic others, having been l(;ft alone at the camp
for a long time, and we have k(^j)t up the same sort of
intimacy ever since the others arrived. Me is a real
honest gentl(;man, and I cannot say more. We both
come to one another for advice at any moment, and he
has been placed in a hard and difficult position with
Mr. Stanley, who, no matter what you do, is sure to say
it is wrong. We shall both be blamed, I know, for the
long delay in Yambuya (.'am[), but (iod knows we have
(lone everything in our power to prevent it. Out of the
whole force in our camp, we could only muster eighty
sound m(!n, and of what use would it be to go after
Mr. Stanley with this force, when Ik?, with 400 men,
sixty of whom (besides officers) \\v\\\ armed with A\Mn-
chester rifles, a Maxim gun, and all the rest armed
with Remingtons, has evidently met with opposition
which prevents him from either returning to us, or from
sending us any message ? Twice liarttelot aiul I have
been going to start with the fi;w men we could scrape
together, and go after him, but wis(;r counscd^ have pre-
vailed, and we at last decided not to go until we had a
force sufficient to be of real aid to him. I cannot be-
lieve that Mr. Stanley would have gone out by any
oth(!r route, either with or without Kmin I'asha. aiul
not have ensured a message getting back to us. If he
has done such a thing, he will be wasting a large sum

1H8H.
April 1«J.

KuHSOllgO.

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AprU 16.

Kaiwongo.

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STORY OF THE RKAli COLUMN,

of money, and risking tho lives of all tlic men, for no
earthly purpose. . . . And now my little palm-oil lainp
is almost at its flicker, so I must bid you ^ood-ni«r|,t
How I wish that 1 ccmld kiss little (iladys, and the
small baby that I have never seen I I pray for you uU
so earnestly every night.

April nth. — Some canoes returned to-day from Staidoy
Falls, but there is no news of Mr. Stanley. It is
horrible to sit still here, and know that he may want
help, and be unable to stir hand or foot to lielp him.
We are entirely in the liands of 'rip])u-'rib, and dare not
have a row with him. Since I came here I have twico
succeeded in getting him into anything but a nice
temper, and lie showed it, but I smootlied him down
again, lie is now just as anxious as we are to got
us started, the letters from Zanzibar having evidently
hurried him up tremendously, and should we \m\v a
row with him now, lie would send up his men after
Stanley, and leave us in Yambuya Camp. He treats
me in the most princely manner. He sent for my boy
Farani this evening, and told him to tell me I was to
buy nothing at all, that I was his guest, and tliat lio
would give me everything I wanted. Farani belongs
to me now entirely. He originally belonged to Tip])n-
Tib, and when I went to Stanley Falls the first time
with Ward, he used to bring us our food. He speaks
a very little English, and I took a great fancy to him.
When the Major went to the Falls, I sent a message
to Tippu-Tib, asking him to lend me the boy for tlie
tri]). He sent him to me, with tlie reply that he was
min(% and tliat I could do what I liked with him. lie
is simply invaluable — cooks, pitches the tent, mends
my clothes, roasts tlie coffee, &c., and carries my gun.
He is a wild sort of savage, but honest and plucky.
My interpreter, wliom I brought with me, Assad Farran
by name, ic a Syrian from Jerusalem, and about as
good-for-nothing a specimen of a Jerusalemite as I ever
saw. He has succeeded in making himself projxniy

LETTER,

203

ill licro, tlinrnpfh (/vcr-oatiiif?, and takiiif; no rxrrciso.
lie would como to me at least four times a day, and
siiy he was fifoin^ (mt to " try his chance," which is
ii <j:reat expression of his. He would then j;o to the
Ariil)s and eat with them, and return very much swollen
out, and tell me of all the thin<^s he had eaten. It has,
however, done for him, as 1 warned him, and to-day he
lias done nothinjij but lie on his back and groan hor-
rihly. I had no medicine for him, havini^ scarcely an
atom for myself, but I ])ror led a large half breakfast-
cii]) of native castor-oil from an Aral) ; it is fearfully
strong, and I made him swallow the whole. It has
done him a world of good, and I tell liim he will be a
now man to-morrow. This is certainly the cheajx'st
place I have ever been in. You can buy any quantity
of sliives here — good ones — f()rc£l per head. I bought
over ',10 lbs. of rice to-day for less than half-a-crown. A
tine large goat costs 2.v. Orf., and a great big fowl lOrf.
A ccMumon man can live here on less than (me farthing
a day. The money used is small ])ieces of grass-cloth,
ivortli less than one half-])enny each. A large market
goes on here for tiirec? or four hours every day. When
tlic metammeh harvest (a sort of corn) comes on, things
are clieaper still, so no wonder that a man can keep a
number of slaves, for these very slaves make the grass-
cloths which buy their food, and all he In. o provide
is tlie grass of which they are made, which grows at
some distance from here. AN'hen we are both quite
" l)r()ken," this will be the place to come to, but I
tliiuk that I liave seen enough, and more than enough,
of this country, to last me a lifetime. . . . One day, as
I ])assed tlirough a native village from which the people
had just run away, I picked u]) a thigh-bone freshly
cooked and picked. The natives who live inland cnit
any of the natives from the river wdiom they can catch,
and vice versa. . . .

A])nl \%th. — ... I took a long walk this morning
along the road to Ujiji, which is the road to Zanzibar.

April 17.
Kiiaiuingo,

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STour OF Tilt: ricar coLUAiy.

. II u

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1888.
April 18.

Ka88()U";o.

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liOAD TO UjIJI.

Before turning back I took a long lingering look in
that direction, and my thoughts wandered over tliat
road homewards. . . . Another Arab came to me to-
day to have his portrait painted, but 1 have no pupcr

to spare, and prefer to sketch the natives

The only book I have witli me is the ' Light of Asia.'
I have read it so often

April 19th. — Tippu-Tib came up to my house after
breakfast to let me take a sketch of him. About a
dozen of the head Arabs came witli him and pressed
round me, making remarks all the time, wliicli so
annoyed me tliat I could not make a really good pic-
ture; it is like him, everyone says, and he has promised
to come again for me to alter the face a little. . . .
Curious how one's fate turns upon a hair sometimes!

Had 1 not gone to 's rooms that Sunday morninii,

and read that paper whilst he was dressing, I sliould
probably never have been here now, for most likely I
should not have heard of the Expedition until it was
just starting. It does seem as if one were guided by

LiyiTER.

205

nn iiTisoon bniul or power, of wliicli Edwin Arnold
writes : —

" A power divine wliich moves to good,

Only its Iiiwh ciidiirt'. . . .

Tliis is ita work iipDii tho thinpa yo see,
Th(! uiiHOcn thiiips an* more ; men's hoarls and minds,
Tlie thoughts of ])ooplps, and th''ir ways and wills,

Those, too, the great law binds. . , ,"

I shall surely have wrought out my iiiissiou in tho
way of travel after this lon<;- journey is over. My
ninhition to do somethinfj; good in this world heforo
I died was right, but there were a thoiisand otiier
tilings which 1 might have done which would never
liiive called me awav so far. . . .

April 20M. — Tip]iu-Tih has had some letters from
rjiji to-day, but 1 cannot get any news out of him.
... I went for a long walk this morning ; it is
delightful to be able to see far over the (M)untry again,
after being shut up in that camp for months. . . .
Almost all the Arabs' slaves come from this country,
Manyema, where they are veiy cluvnp. (They do not
take many slaves from tlie natives of the Aruwimi,
as they are of little value, being so disfigured by
tattooing, and having their ears and lips full of slits
and holes.) My boy Farani has two slaves of his own.
I saw one offered to him this morning for three pieces
of cotton cloth, worth Is. 0«i., but he said it was too
dear. Notwithstanding the slavery, I don't think I
liave ever seen a country where there is so much
general happiness, and so little misery ; one sees far
more of the latter at home. There is no starvation
here, and no one Avithout work. When they do wrong,
instead of being imprisoned or dismissed, they get a
good sound beating with a stick, and I am not sure
that it is not the best plan. The long grass-cloths
that are worn here are really very beautiful, and I am
going to try and buy one to-morrow for you. The
head chief of all the Wagania (the tribe living round
Kassongo) came to be sketched this morning ; to show

ISSS.
April 10.

KlUI8(lll((0>

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i>"yY>/^i' OF Till-: ItKAH COLUMS.

^^^\.. ^** ^i*'^^' in'icli mrntci' it cliicf lie coiisidrnMl iiir tl

April *i()
KMsong)

lan

liiinscir, lie |M(kc(I ii|> dust off' tlic ffoor as lie w
^oiiiu: invay and tlircw it on to liis shoulder. . .
Major IJarttcloi litis told inc that whrii wo stint f
tlic Lake I a)ii U) ^o on in front, and j^ivc all direc-
tions about the roud, as we shall have to steer I

lis

fir

compass, having no instruments with us. It will hi'
much pleasanter work than tlie slave-drivinji; I had to
do hetween .Matadi and Stanley Pool, Troup is ti»
bo left l)ehin<l at Stanley Kails, in charge of all the
loads we leave there, as the men are only to carrN
half loads in order to a(t(!elerate our movements. .
I am nearly in ra^s now, and am jjositively ashamed
to ^'o about amonn;st these beautifully dressed, cleiin
Arabs with my elbows stiekinj^ out, and holes in tlic
knees of my trousers. hut 'rippu-Tib sjiys that on
some of his tiips he has ha.d nothing to wear but a
piece of native ^rass-eloth ! . . .

April 'list. — 'i'he time has come when I must say
pjood-bye. In two days' time I shall be returniuii; to
that abominable eamp . . . but it is jdeasant to think
that the oidy news you will hear of me after this will

be of my retiirn journey

I cannot ])()ssibly think

why Stanley has never been able to send us any newi
unless he is in a very bad fix indeed. If he is and
we relieve him, of courst; it will be somethini;' done,
but what a fiasco after all we were going to do !

DIARY (coittuineil).

April \V)fh. — T got a sphmdid sketch of a native
of Unyanembi, and of 'ri|)])U-'rib's two gun-bearers.
A great raid was made u))on my (doth to-da}. 1
bought 100 native cloths from an Arab for one piece
of handkerchiefs, and 'l'ipi)u-Tib ha])pen(Ml to see the
piece, which had a good (leal of Avhitc about it. He
sent to ask me if I had any more of the same, as he
would like to have some. I had none exactly the samc^
but a few double pieces very like it, so I sent thein
down to him. He wanted more, and said he wonid
give me other cloth for all of them, but 1 told him they

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uldcr. . .
ic stint lur
r nil (liicc.
;<) steer hv

It will !)'(.
1^ I liad to
r«)U|) is to

of all tlic
ily to ciniA
'emeiits. . .
'ly asliiuiied
'ssed, eleaii
iol(«s ill the
ys that on
wear but ii

I must Siiy
etuniiui!; to
lit to think
ter this will
ssibly think
anv news,
he is and
liiii"' (lone,
lo!

a native
jun-bearers.
to-day. 1
OIK! ])ie(;e
to see tlie
lit it. lie
ame, as he
y the same,
sent them
he would
d him they

Native of Unyanembi. [Page 266.]

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DIAlil'.

20»

were a prosont, and tlmt I was glad to find I liad some-
tliinij; to give him that he wanted. I had also to
give Sefo, his son, a double piece. All the other
Arabs then Ijegged me to sell cloth to tliem, but I
put my foot down, and refused to part with another
handkerchief. Tliey were exactly like vultures round
a dead hody. Fifty more men, for us, came in to-day.
Ti[)pu-Tib sent me up some colfee-beans and sugar.

April 11 fh. — 1 bought three sacks full of rice, in
all I should think over 90 lbs., for 42 native cloths,
or ribas, or about ten matakas, or 2*'. \d. An Arab
sent up two large baskets of rice, for wliicli he
wanted cloth in exchange, and I was just asking
how much they wanted for it, wlien Tippu-Tib s(Mit
up one of my boys to tell me not to buy it, or any
more rice at all, as he would give me all I recpiired.
The Arab was annoyed, to say the very least of it.
Tippu-Tib then sent Salem Masudi u]) with the same
message and another lot of coffee-beans.

Apiil ISth. — This morning I took a long walk
along the road to Ujiji ; I passed through nothing
but gardens for about an hour and a half, and
they extend on all sides of the town. After
breakfast Farani brought me a splendid specimen of
a savage to sketch. He belongs to some tribe far
away to the south, and has come, I believe, from
Quemba; he is a drummer and dancer. After I had
sketched him he treated me to a dance, whicli is
exactly like the Highland fling. It is a curious thing
that some of the steps were the very same. This
sketch is the best I have attempted, both as a like-
ness and a drawing. It has just struck me as ])os-
sible that Mr. Stanley may be in Uganda, and have
told the king that we are coming on with plenty of
stuff to pay him with, and lie may be ke])t there
waiting for us. Last night I was awakened by tlie
most dreadful noise, all the ])eople in the town
seemed to be yelling ; this morning it was still going
on, and I found out that an Arab woman had died,
and nearly everyone in the town was at the house,

18SS.
April 1(5.

Kussuiigo.

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STOJty OF Tilt: liKAli COLUMX

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DurMMEK \xi> Danckk ok Qukmha.

1888. 'ri|)pu-'ril) iimoni^st thv vest, ^\'li('n, as in this case,
A].ril is. [I i^ .^ ^v()l^all who is (k'ud, tlio iricii all sit ill^i(le
Kassongo. ^j^^^, houso aii(l ill tlio I'oad, while the women assemble
in the small (mclosure at the back of the house wlicrc
they bury the body. The moment she is i)uiie(l, the
men sj^o home, and the women <4"o and wash tiieiii-
selves in the river. In the ease of a man's death.
the men all stay in the house for three davs, at the
end of which time there is an enormous quantity of
rice cooked, and all coiners have a i^reat feed.

April \\)th. — In the aft(>rnooii 1 iijot a jjjood sketch
of Lamba Lamba, one of the native chiefs of this place.
Salem Masudi let out to-day that Tippu-'rib had received
the news about the kin<.>- of Unyoro collectinji; men for
Kmin Pasha, in ;i letter, I asked 'ri])})u-'rib if T
could send a letter to Major liarttelot, but he told mc
that no one would go to Stanley Fnlls before \\v did.

LAMliA-LAMltA, A VVaoAUIA CiIIKK. [P.'lfje 270.1

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DIARV.

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April 20ffi. — Skotfhocl Mwana Ilalnmba, tlio lioad
riativo chief of Ivassoiijjfo, then took a jjortrait of an
Aral) fjontlomHii of tliis ])la(;o at his roquost, and pro-
sciitod liim witli it. 'ri])pn rrcoivod k'ttors from Vjiji.

ylpril 2]st. — 1 bolicno Tippn-'rib will really start
on tlio 24th, as all his thinji^s go down to the canoes
to-morrow. I made a drawing of a curions native stool
from Walua, shaped like an idol. Another Arab
bothered me to take his portrait. 'J'ippu-Tib gave me
six sacks of rice. Had a row with Assad about not
Avashing himself, lie confessed to not having washed
since we have been here.

April 22/?r/, Sunday. — Tippii-Tib informed me this
morning that the canoes had not yet returned from
Kibonge, but were expected here either to-day or to-
morrow, and that he would start without fail in four days'
time for the river, sleep there that night, and go on next
morning. When coming here on the river, ] was told that
lie could not start until these canoes returned. Had to
do another portrait of an Arab, and then^ are many more
applicants, but I have shut up shop. Went for a long
walk in the evening, to get some axes made for the camp.

April 2'6rfL — Tippu-l'ib is really going ; he is paying
the paddlers. Finished letters home.

April 24fh. — Had a long talk to-day with Tippu-Tib,
whom I found in a particularly good humour. I took
down mv letters, and asked him to send tliem for me.
lie said they would not take long on the road ; he is
sending some himself, and they go witli tlie regular
monthly Mission post. He told me that he could give us
any number of canoes, carriers, &c., in the event of our
return by this route. I asked liim, in case of our return
by Uganda, what we shoidd do witli his men, and lie
told me that he would j^ive all necessarv orders to Sclim
Maliommed, or whoever went in command of them. I
then asked him what were the best trading tilings to take.
He said that beads, cowries, and brass wire would do as
fiir as Uganda and Unyoro, and tliat the ))articular kind
of beads did not signify, as no one liad been up the road

'111
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April "JO.
Kiiflsonga

111

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274

STOliY OF THE UK Alt COLUMN.

TiPPU-TiB.

1888. before to spoil the market. He then brought me some
April 24. cloth which is good in Uganda and Unyoro, much smaller
Kassongo. ^^^ thinner than ours, and said, " Where this is good,
how much more valuable must yours be." I had a
long talk ^vith him on various subjects, Germany and
France, Germany and Zanzibar, gold, silver, and
diamond countries, «S:c. He showed me some copper
money, and said that, when he first came to this country,
for one or two pieces of copper money, worth about
\s. 3(^. each, you could buy five 60- or 70-lb. tusks of
ivory, but that day is all over. There are two places
from which the copper comes; one south, the other
north of Kassongo. He seemed anxious that France

niABY.

275

should go to war with Germany, evidently thinking tliat
it would clieck the progress of the (iermans in this
country for a little. He also asked me a great deal
about the Congo Free State. He sent me up word later
in tlie day that lie would start in three days. Tippu does
not allow the natives here to be ill-treated by his own
men. An Arab was flogged by his command to-day for
having unjustly struck a native. There was a regular
sale of slaves to-day, about fifteen being sold by auction,
of whom Tippu bought eight.

April 2bth. — I generally take a walk every evening
up the hill, at tlie top of which lives a rich Arab, called
^luni Katomba, from Bagamoya. Two evenings ago,
ou my way home, he came out and said to me, " You
pass my house every day ; why do you not come in and
see me V I promised to do so the next time I passed,
and called on him this evening. He was deliglited to
see me, and we had a long talk. These Arabs cannot
believe that there are many j900r white men (I opened
liis eyes on that subject), nor can they understand that
there are people in England richer than the Queen and
the Prince of Wales. He asked me why I had bought
the native axes, and when I told him, he brought me
out four large native knives, and asked me if they
would be of any use, and I gladly accepted them. He
took me into his house, and into the large courtyard at
the back, in which he showed me all his women slaves,
of Avhom there must have been two hundred of all
manner of tribes. The women brought me a mat to sit
on, and they crowded round to see me, most of them
never having seen a white man before. On my de-
parture he presented me with a goat, a quantity of
fruit, and a beautiful Zanzibar mat, and then wallved
lialf-w^ay down the hill to bid me good-bye. How
different his treatment of me from that of the Arabs who
live near Tippu-Tib's house, whose only object is to try
and get everything they can out of one ! He is a perfect
gentleman in maimer, and he is the only Arab who has
taken me inside his house and shown me his women.
The scene inside the courtyard would have made a

IF!

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1888.
April 2-1.

^'i

fnH8(ing(A

•

Si-

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April '2'y.
Knssongo.

270

STOJtr or TiiK jii:Ait column.

splendid ]>ic'ture. Women of all tribes, in every sort of
dress (and many uitli seareely any), stood in fjjroii|)s nH
round tlie enclosure, engaged in different kinds of work.
My interview with Muni Katomba certainly did uhk h
to raise my opinion of tbe Arabs, not by bis ])res(MUs,
but by his manner of giving them, and his whol(» ticat-
ment of me. I believe he is very lich, and owns niiuiy
villages and slaves. He cannot at all understand why
white men, with jilenty of money, should leave tlieir owii
country (and risk their lives) to see others. I bade liini
farewell in true Oriental fashion, placing my hand upon
my heart, telling him that his kindness to me, a straii<r(>r
and a passer-by, had made a murk upon it, which would
never be obliterated.

April 2()fh. — Gave a copy of my sketch of the (•lii(>f
of Riba-lliba to him, according to my promise. Tippn-
Tib really means starting to-morrow. Thank God ! tlicrc
is a chfince of our making a start in the right direction at
last. Tippu-Tib gave me a piece of the copper money.

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Wagania Huts.

( i^77 )

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" NoTuiNa LiKK Indkpkndencb."

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CHAPTER VIII.

Aphii, 27tii to Ji'm-; 10th.

Stiirt b.ick for Ynmbiiyiv. — Dfliiy nt !-taitin;r-pi int on the rivor. — Thirty-four
of Tipim's men run nway. — Tipjm and Cameron. — Chiels arrive to bid
t'arewpll to Tippu-Tib.— Miresa. — Tippu's cunversation in Swaliili.—
Two canoes sunk.— A narrow escape. — .\ssad Karran'a u.selc8sne8s. —
Riba-Kiba. — Wacusu dance.— Cannibal.''.— Conversation witii Tippu. —
Muni Soimii. — Kibonpo. — Chimpanzees.— Tippu'.s account of a journey
with Stanley. — Stanley Falls. — Bartti'lot's interview with Tippu-Tib.—
Start for Vanjbuya. — Troup sends in application to be sent home. -
Hard at work reduciuj.'' loads. — Caps turn out to be bad. Letter to
Mi-H. Jame.son.

April Tith. — Off at last, thank Heaven ! On iny way
down to the river, T st()i)i)ed to ask my friend Muni
Katomba for his ]m)])er name, as I want to send liim
something from Enghinu. I now understand wliy his
lioart went out to me, for lie must be a Scotchman, or
iit least of Scottish descent, his name being Abede bin
Miickya, or Abede the son of Macky. It is cinious
that ho was the only Arab who was generous to me
besides Tippu-Tib. The walk to the starting-place on
the river took about two hours' good going. It was a

lovely day, with a fresh breeze

blowing.

Strings of

1888.
April 27.

Return
Jijuriiey.

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278

STOJir OF Till': Ji/JAli COLUMy.

isfla

April 27.

Ret

urn

slaves, cliaiiuMl toi^cllicr, cnnicd rmr loads. Most of
tluMu cainr from Malrla and tlic otlicr sido of tlic
Journey. Congo, a great many from the liead of \\\v Luinaini
liiv(»r. They, in most cases, carried their spears, hows,
and arrows, just as tliey had left their villages. 'I'liey jin>
all for us, 1 h(»lieve. Al>out a quarter of a mih' hctorc
reaching the landing-])lace, I had to wade a river u]» to my
waist. I tliouglit it would he all right, knowing tlnit
my clotlies had left hours hefore I did, hut out of nil
the loads they were the only ones that did not arriv(». i
am now sitting, long after dark, cold and nearly naked,
as there is scarcelv anv fire-wood here. On i)iissiii<r
Tipi)n's house, ahout half a mile from here (the landing-
place for Kassongo), 1 met Said hin Ilahih, a venerable
■vvhite-hearded old Aral), with whom Tippu-Til) was
having a conference, lie was on his way t(^ /an/ihai ;
he is very rich, and is one of the Aral)s who questioned
Tij)pu-'ril)'s authority as an officer of the Free State, as
he had no visible signs of authority. Assad Farran did
not arrive until long after dark, having started at least
two liours before we did. No signs of clothes to-night.

A)niJ 2Sth. — I am afraid there is little chance of oui
getting away from Yaml)uva by the 24th Ma\ . rheic
is another delay here which 1 had not bargained for,
and a serious one ; there are not nearly suff'c'ent canoes
to take lis all at one time. This morning, when I went
to see Tippu-Tib, he made me a present of a very
handsome leopard skin n])on whicli he was seated, and
I went down with him to the canoes, as he was sendiiiu:
away about one hnndred of the men to an island o])posite
Ts yangwe, w here they could not rnn away. Unless Tij)j)n-
Tib has more canoes further down river, tliis delay will
occur again and again. The place has been really
lively all day long, men arriving with drums beatiiiLj
and flags flying. They are always saying that all the
canoes on tlie river belong to Tip[)u-Tib, but this is
merely an empty boast. 1 was told the other day that
he owned one hundred canoes and meant to buy more.
but it looks to me as if he only owned about twcnity '

ics to-iii<^-lit,

1)1 AH v.

27 'J

Itivcr.

Native Womax in Mauki.t.

Passed a slcojiless ni^lit from tlic cold and mosquitoes, ^l^'j'^'.^
iov my clothes never cjinie till this mornin<>f. They cmit;".
Avere curried l)y the men of one of Tip[)u's inuniaparas,
who is himself bringinjj; a lot of men for iis, iind, I
believe, is going with us from Yambuya. Thirty-four of
liis men ran away yesterday, hence the delay. Patience
is a virtue you need to accjuire in tliis country, if you
liavc it not. Ti])pu-Tib gave Assad l^arran a small l)oy
t(Mlay, belonging to the tribe Hanga-15anga. The boy
can speak no language but his own, and Assad is afraid

' ill,

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April '2S.

280

sronr of the hi: mi co/mmx.

iH!<a. f,, s(Mul liiiii oil iiiiv t'lraiul, lest ho slioiild nm uwav

A dirtier, more liclplcss and »is('l(»ss sjx'cinii'ii tli;iii

Kiv«T. Assad lanau I have never met in my lite.

April 'l\)th^ Siivdai/. — \Vas a\vakene(l hy tlie (limns
of tVesli anivals. 'rippu-'ril) jxMsonally sujx'iintciKJs
tlio shipping of all llie men, whom he sends off tw
Nyan}j;\ve as fast as they aiiive, for he is afraid of tiicir
desertin«i; us heie,

Miresa, tlu^ Aral) ehief of Ujiji and Tant^anyika, Wiis
to arrive at KHsson«j5o to-day, and comes here to-monow.
'ril)pu-'ril) told me this morninf; that the road from
Kibonjjjo is the one we onjjjht to have }jjone by, as it
is II much shorter and better one than Stanley's loiid.
Jle says that nu)st likely there will not l)(^ much water
on our road, as after lianuilan, which is next inontli,
there is less rain. lie 'old me how he had met
Cameron. He was at that tune south of tln) Conj^o, in
a large tract of country he liad crnKpiered below Mal'hi.
Tippu did not then know that there were any Arabs at
Kassongo and Nyangwe, nor did they know he was
there. At the same time that he was fighting tlie
natives to the north of iiim, the Arabs from Nyangwe
crossed the Congo and went south, and as the natives
about there had no guns, the Xyangwe people were
astonished to hear shots tired near them, and they found
Tippu-Tib's men lighting the natives. Ti])pu then
came to Nyangwe, where he found Cameron, who wished
to go on down the Congo, but the Arabs of IS'yaniiwe
refused to help him in any way ; so he asked Tippu-Til)
to take him back to his country south of the Coni^^o,
but Ti})pu-Tib told him he wished to go to Kasson^o,
to his brother Nzige. Cameron, however, asked
him so often that at hist he took him back to his
country, where they met some Portuguese, with whom
Cameron eventually travelled towards Loanda. TiiJpu-
Tib told me that Stanley had tried to strike across
country to the north of this phice, but found the bush
so thick and the road so bad that he turned back, and
begged Tip])u-'rib to assist him to go down the Coni^nj.

life.

I run awiiy.
'(•iiiK'ii tliaii

281

Onk ok Til i'u-Tiit"s (Jln-iii:u!i;us.

1888.

I'licy struck the river at the ra])i(ls a day below Nyangwc', .^p^j, 2*9.
and there fought tlie natives, (•a])turin«»: canoes from con^o
them, in which Mr. Stanley descended the river. ^"e*"-

I was rather amused to-day, wlien the canoes were
starting, to see a lot of women crowding into one,
leaving a number of men on tlu^ l)ank. 'li])])u-'rib
handed all the women out, and put the men in, turning
round to me and saying, " 1 don't want to see women
going; I want to see men." The Manyema men will

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1888.
April :2!».

( 'nr\<X' I
Kiver.

282

STOlty OF riJE REAR COLUMN.

not go witliout some of their women, and, as far as I
can see, there are nearly as many women as men.

On the way to the river from Kasscmgoa man tried to
run away, but he was caught by Sefo and made to carry
a load for me. On our arrival here, Farani handed him
over to Tippu, who put him in chains with a lot of
others, and sent him off to ^.'yangwe next morning. To-
day his owner caught us up here, and asked Farani for
liim, vSefo having told him that the man was with me.
Farani refeiTed him to Tippu-Tib, to whom he then
went, and who said to him, " Oh, yes, he was brought
here, but he must have run away in the night, as I
have not seen him since." This is the \v?y in whicli
one of our men was obtained ! They have only a littl(>
over three months' rainfall here and the rest of the year
is dry, so the river gets terribly low.

April o{)th. — Tip])u-Tib told me yesterday that lie
had received a letter from Selim Mahommed, wlio said
that the men he liad sent across the Aruwimi River to
tlie north of our camp had crossed four rivers, and
reached an open country with high grass, where tlic
natives grew metammeh and Indian corn, not manioc.
Here tlioy liad met a number of natives who had run
away from some big cliief to tlie nortli, who was figlitin<>-,
and had been beaten by, some white men. Tippu-Tib
asked me if I knew who the Avhite men could be, but
I told him I did not know of any one travelling in that
direction. (Found out afterwards that this was M. Van
(tele, of the Free State, on the Mobangwe or Welle.)
Only one canoe has arrived so far from Nyangwe.
jNIore men were sent a^vay, but none arrived ; there are
many men liere still in chains. God knows how lon^j:
the delay here is going to be. AVhen I speak to Ti])i)u-
Tib about it, he only loses liis temper. One of his gun-
carriers was drowned to-day whilst bathing ; he got into
the current, wliich looks quite slow, but an eddy seemed
simply to suck him down, althougli he was a good
swimmer. Assad gets dirtier and more lazy than ever.

^fa}/ l.st. — Tliere is a hope of our getting off the day

DIARY.

2S5I

■J'

.■•»-■; * 4ihi #v ■■-■

' Mi

- /*vlkM

L0NGA-L0XG\, ClItKK OF XlIK McULU.Sl. — UutA-UlH.V.

tA\cv to-iiioiTow. All the grandees of tlie place arrive m-s,^

t-i-niorrow, to bid farewell to Tip])ii-Til). S])eiit most of ^'"X '•

tile day with Tii)])u-'rib, sendiuij: ott" the loads in tlie i''^"-'^
c:.noes.

Mat/ 2n(L — My heart is ligliter to-niglit tliaii it lias

IKSS.
May 2.

Congo
River,

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284

STOnr OF THE lilwili COLUMN.

been for a l(>nj< time. Mahoinmcd bin AlfUii, hcttir
known as Miresji, arrived to-day, and I believe we sliall
really start tlie day after to-morrow. He is h very li^ln-
coloured Arab, almost as fair as a white man, and, wcn^
it not for the scars of small-pox, would l)e a ^ood-look-
ing fellow; his manners aie those of an Knj^lish ^cntlci-
man. His head-quarters are close to tlie missioiiiirv,
Mr. Iloare, at Tanganyika. I am beginninii: to under-
stand a good deal of Swahili now, especially if the
person gesticulates and acts. Whilst I was sitting witli
Tippu-Tib and Mir^sa to-day, Tippii«Tib told him nil
ab(>ut Stanley and the Expedition. From what 1 undci'-
stood, Tippu-Tib knows nothing of Mr. Stanley's wluic-
abouts, and he went on to tell Miresa that Mr. Ilolin-
wood had been making a row about the men ; he also
made the old excuses about the powder not having come
up w itli us at first, and the vSoudanese not being allowed
to fire when his men were wounded, and finally said that
Mr. Stanley had gone off with a lift of his helmet, and
nothing more was known of him. Tippu-Tib does not
think that I understMid a word of Swahili. Mir(\sa is
a (piiet-looking man, but from all I hear is a vcrv
devil at fighting the natives, and feared accordingly.
Muni Katomba, my friend of Scottish descent, came to
say good-bye.

Mai/ 8?v/. — Sefo and All Mahommed came to bid ns
farewell. The former has a splendid band. Two girls
go in front, singing and keeping time with bead rattles.
Then come three men with side drums played by tlie
hand, and last of all one man with a large drum, or
chondo as it is called, slung before him, and played witli
drum-sticks. All the drums are slung on broad bands
of leopard skin over the shoulders, ind on the big diiiiii
are snudl bells, which tinkle when it is struck. The
men sing as well as the wcmien. Early in the afternoon
a terrible storm came on, and, in spite of eery effort,
two canoes sank, and throe others were only just saved.
This was the result of loading the canoes several days
before the start. When 1 was sitting with Ti))pu-Tib in

DIARV.

28.'

tlio evening, about ton moro men univod from Mulola.
Tlicrc is no canoci for them. He remarked, "Tlie more
tlio better," a?id I ajijree witli him. Tiiey will go over-
land to Nyang\v6. Tii)pu gave me the choice of one of
four enormous goats to-day. I cliose a beauty, the first
lonijr-haired one I have seen in this country, and it is as
fat as butter ; he gave me a very large one the otluT day,
and this evening sent mc two tins of sugar, and some
Arab biscuits. I really do think that he is anxious to
«i;ivc us all the men, and to see us start. He will have
to wait till midday to-morrow to dry his l)ales, whit^h
were nearly drowned to-dav.

Mail Uh. — Tippu-Tib's things certainly did want dry-
ing; his cloth was all wet, and most of the gunpowder.
The river-bank looked exactly like a bleaching-green,with
the long strips of white cloth spread all over the grass.
Soto asked me to take a sketch of him, Avhicli 1 was
only too happy to do, and Mahommed bin Kassim ex-
pressed the ho])e that " (iod would take me safely to
my home, where 1 should find all well." Surely nothing
will occur to delay us now ; but tlie old song of " AVhat
will to-morrow bring 1 AMio can tell ? " is most applicable
to this country and these people.

May hth. — Off at last, thank 1 leaven ! but — we had
not gone far when we wove nearly stopped for good and
all. I have thought several times that the canoe was
too small, and when everything was in it to-day it
nearly sank. Everyone declared it was all right, but I
put my foot down when Farani's women arrived, and
insisted on their going in an(jthev canoe. Had I not
done so, this diary would never have been written to-
night. In the canoe were nine fnen, tv/o boys, three
goats (two very large), ten fowls, fourteen sacks of rice,
one sack of peanuts, one large heavy tin box, two wooden
boxes, three enormous loads of manioc, one tent, one
lot of bedding, one bed, bags, baskets, plantains, cook-
ing-pots, guns, mats, &c. &c. If a goat or a num
moved one inch, in came the water ! We went on,
liowe\er, like a water-logged ship, until after midday,

May 3.

Coup)

River.

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May .").

NVapmiia
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280

STOliY OF THK RKAli VOLUMN.

when a sudden heavy thunderstorm came up behind us.
The men lost all control over the canoe, and she turned
sideways to the squall ; as it caught the large awnin*)-,
there was no way of letting it go. I flung myself
on to the board of the awning outside the canoe,
and made my boy Farani do so too. For about a
minute we were rushing through the water on our
side, out into t'he middle of the river, luckily at such a
pace that although the water was three or four inches
over the side of the canoe, not very much came in.
At last the men got her before the wind, Avhen in
came the waves, and we reached a bed of rushes near
the bank only just in time. I have not had such a
squeak for many a day, and I thanked God when it was
well over. Had Farani and I not flung ourselves as far
out of the canoe as possible, she certainly must have gone
over. The two women of his, whom we did not take,
would have done it, and the awning would have drowned
us like rats in a hole. We camped at sunset in a small
Wagania village in a swamp. Tippu-Tib's canoe came
past some time afterwards, but 1 was not going on in
the dark, when a single knock against a stump would
have sent us to the bottom !

May Qtliy Sunday. — Passed a tenible night between
the mosquitoes and feeling very seedy. Hired a canoe
from the Waganias, and put into it the three goats,
six sacks of rice, and two boys. Reached Nyangwe
early. Told Tippu that if I did not get another canoe
I should have to leave the goats and rice behind.
After some trouble, he promised I should have another
canoe in the morning. Had to lie down all day, but
luckily got some fresh milk ; ^ lolent sickness all day.
Said bin Abede came in to see Tippu-Tib. He is nine-
teen, but looks younger. Had a great show of guns
with him — silver-plated Winchesters, &c. Miresa had
a Colt's repeating-rifle, about the same as a Winchester.
Tippu-Tib is certainly w^onderfully kind to me ; he sent
all sorts of food to try and make me eat, and after dark
came up himself to the house, and brought me a large

DIAliV.

287

bowl of milk with his own hands, asking me if I was
all right for the night.

May 7th. — Did not get away till about 1 o'clock.
Passed a very bad night and morning. Brandy-ard-
milk is the only thing I can take. Seedy as I was, I
had to stand out in the sun by the canoes, and super-
intend everything myself. I often wish Assad could
be removed to another sphere of labour, as he is worse
than useless in this one, only taking up the place of a
better man. As I went down to the canoes for the last
time, Mahommed bin Alfan and Salem Masudi ran after
me, to bid me a last good-bye and a safe journey and
return to England, and to ask if I had any messages to
send to Ujiji. I begged them tell Mr. Hoare that all
the officers were well, and that we were just about to
start after Mr. Stanley. Tippu-Tib presented me with
a puppy, bred in this country from English parents,
one of which belonged to Mr. Deane at Stanley Falls.
Assad is even more useless than I thought he was.
Reached the rapids after dark.

May Sth. — Passed another very bad night. My boys
let the canoe go over to the island, from whence it did
not return until morning, with my coffee, milk, fruit,
salt, and everything I required, in it. Assad sat on the
bank and looked on. Consequently I had only some
rice to eat and water to drink. The mosquitoes were
frighiful. Made an early start, and walked to the foot
of the rapids, the canoes taking the loads. To mend
matters, Assad, although he knew that to lighten the
canoes everyone, even the men in chains, had to come
out of them, walked quietly down to one of them, got
into it, and went off. When I asked for him, he had
gone. Last night he ate the rice which I was keeping
tor my breakfast this morning, so I started on nothing.
I told him, when we met, that had anything happened
to the loads in the canoe in which he went, I would
have shot him, and so I should, for he is a positive
danger to any boat. It took a good sharp hour and
a half s walk to get to the foot of the rapids. The

1888.
May C.

Wagania
^ illage.

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1888.
May 8.

Rapide.

288

STOltr OF 77/ A' K/'JAll COLUMN.

picture wasabrijijlit one alon^j^tlio road to tho foot of the
rapids, with tlio strin<ifs of Arab womon in gay-ooloured
dresses, interspersed amonj; the lines of chained men
and here and there the Arab chiefs in tlicir robes of
spotless white. Tippn met me at thv' foot of the rapids,
and sent me a breakfast of ])ineap])le, cakes, and tliick
milk. lie considers yesterday a capital day's work.
We camped at 4 o'clock, sending all our men on to
an island. I am going to follow Ti})pu-Tib's example
and sleep in the canoe. My little dog follows me about
everywhere, as though he knew his parents were Eng-
lish, and recognizes me as his lawful master.

May 9fh. — Got away, before sunrise, and did a good
day's work, camping near Numbi, which was tlic ])laf'('
where we found the natives fighting with Kibongo.
They are all quiet now, as he gave them a tremendous
hammering, and took all their guns away. Tipjiu
offered to take me down the rapids in a long canoe,
but I told him the walk was what I wanted. Assad,
as usual, kept e>eryone waiting. The start this morn-
ing was a fine sight, — the white awnings, red flags, and
dark figures of the natives under a bright sun were
very picturesque. I counted forty-five canoes, but there
were many more which I could not see, and the men
singing, drums beating, and the shouts of the paddlcrs
made it very lively. A journey of this sort is an expe-
rience worth having, but 1 am afraid it is too late to
be of any use.

3Iai/ lOfh. — Started long before sunrise, and reached
Hiba-Riba at sunset, making a long, hot day's work.
I am so cramped up in this canoe that I am twice as
tired as I should be after a hard day's walking, and for
the same reason get no sleep at night. The chief here
came down to meet and conduct me to the same house
I occupied before. It is being re-mudded, and is more
tilthy and damp than ever, nor is there any diminution
in the number of rats. I found out my dog's ago to-
day. She is between five and six months old. I don't
think I have ever seen so young a dog with the same

AJJUL^,,^

' ll

't <i

DIARY.

280

1888.

amount of sonso. AN o have to stay liore all to-morrow ,. ,,,
to nuy loocl tor tlio men, which is a pity, as wo were Riba.Rjbo.
fretting on so well. However, it is no lifijht matter to
arrive in a place like this suddenly, and tind food for
four hundred men.

May Wfh. — Took a lonfjj walk round tlie outskirts of,
the town, and found some ])arts very ])retty, standing;
ill small clearin<;s in tlie forest on little hills, with
streams runninjjj hc^tween them. Opposite many of the
houses I noticed small huts, not over two or tliree feet
in height, made of grass mats, Avhich, I was ^^old, were
tjraves, and in one I found a circular mound with a
hole in the centre, resembling the one in the chiefs
srnive at Yaweeko. Salem told me that thev had heard
from the Falls that Major liarttclot had sent Ward
down to Banana, and that he was asking for a steamer.
As 'ri])]ni-Tib was very busy, I went over to the old
chiefs house to have a talk with him, when presently
a band, consisting of four drummers, arrived with three
pedestal-shaped side-drums, and one wedge-shaped
chondo. The ])layers, whose heads were covered with
thick wliite clay, and ornamented with a coronet of
white feathers, knelt in front of the house, one a little
in front of the others. The upper part of their bodios
was streaked with the same wliite clay, and their dress
consisted of strips of fresh palm-leaves hanging from a
«jreen branch fastened round their waists. Presently
there danced into the reception house two men and a
woman ; the first man was dressed like the drummers,
but the other man and the woman were clad in the
ordinary Tamba-Tamba cloths. The first man held a
large bunch of small branches and leaves in each hand,
which he struck together over the head of each of us,
dancing all the time, and all three singing a wild sort
of chant. The woman had a knife in one hand, and a
bunch of leaves in the other, with a cin le of saffron-
colour surrounding each eye. The other man held a
spear and a bunch of leaves. These were followed by
six men and the same number of women, with heads

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1888.
May 11.

Biba-Biba.

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STOliV OF TllK RKAR COLUMN.

wliitenod, and dressed the same as the drumriKMs.
They danced in, and, each in turn, cla])ped tlieir
branches of leaves together over our heads, and duiuod
out again. The man and woman with the s]K'ar and
knife, as well as a small boy holdiiif^ two cliickcns
with tlieir tlnoats cut, and two youths, all dressed the
same as the others, went and stood beliind tlic
drummers. The other men and women then (huiccd
forward in a line, the men first, then the women, the
drums striking up a lively measure. They now moved
round the band in a circle, their bodies bent forward
in a half-sitting posture, going through the most extra-
ordinary contortions. This was kept up for some time
by the men and women alternately, but at last tliey all
stood still in a half-circle round the band, and sauii; a
wild chant. Next came a handsome, tall young nigo-or,
in the long white Arab dress, with a head-dress of rod
parrot feathers, and a woman dressed in gaudy-colonrod
clothes, and this couple, having become the centre
figures of the group, went through a sort of benedic-
tion pantomime, raising their hands as the others all
bowed their heads. The chief then presented tliem
with a gun, and explained to me all about them. They
are slaves from the Wacusu, and a good many of them
have been dying lately, so these men and women went
away into the bush for two months, during >vhich time
they have not been seen by anyone. They only re-
turned to-day, having finished their medicine-making.
Tippu-Tib, who came in before it was over, told me
that they usually kill several people, and have a grand
feast, for the Wacusu are terrible cannibals. He then
told me, amongst other stories, that long ago, when
fighting near Malela, they killed a great many of the
enemy. The natives who were with him were cannibals,
and not a body could be found next morning. (He tells
me that two men will easily eat one man in a night.)
He sent for water in the night to wash his hands and
to drink, the water there being in a well. When it
was brought, he could not make out why it stuck to
his hands, and was so oily and bad to drink. Next

DIARY,

291

day he and several Arabs went np to see wliat was the
matter with the water, and there tliey saw a most
horrible si<?ht. The top of the water was all covered
with a thick layer of yellow fat, which was runnin*;
over the side, and he found out that his natives Inul
taken all the human meat to tlie well to wash it before
eatinj^. At the next place he camped by a stream, and
made the natives camp below him. I told liim tliat
people at liome generally believed that these were only
" travellers' tales," as they are called in our country, or,
in other words, lies. He then said something to an Arab
called Ali, seated next him, who turned round to me
and said, " Give me a bit of cloth, and see." I sent
my boy for six handkerchiefs, tlnnking it was all a joke,
and that they were not in earnest, but presently a man
appeared, leading a young girl of about ten years old
by the hand, and I then witnessed the most horiibly
sickening sight I am ever likely to see in my life, lie
plunged ci knife quickly into her breast twice, and she
fell Oil her face, turning over on her side. Three men
then ran forward, and began to cut up the body of the
girl ; finally her head was cut off, and not a particle
remained, each man taking his piece away doAvn to the
river to wash it. The most extraordinary thing was
tliat the girl never uttered a sound, nor struggled, until
she fell. Until the last moment, I could not believe
that they Avere in earnest. I have heard many stories
of this kind s.nce I have been in this country, but
never could believe them, and I never would have been
such a beast as to witness this, but I could not bring
myself to believe that it was anything save a ruse to
get money out of me, until the last moment.

The girl was a slave captured from a village close to
this town, and the cannibals were Wacusu slaves, and
natives of this place, called Mculusi. When I went
home I tried to make some small sketches of the scene
while still fresh in my memory, not that it is ever likely
to fade from it. No one here seemed to be in the least
astonished at it.

In the afternoon I had a long talk with Tippu-Tib.

1.S8S.
May 11

Ilibii-Riba.

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'"ki,!:r'*-

292

SToiir OF THE ni'iMt columx.

IHHR.
Miiy II.

Riba*Riba.

I ox])l!iiii(Ml to him that Mr. Stauloy lincl l(^ft orders to
cominunicatc with tli(» Committee \\\\v\\ |)()ssil)l(.,
and that, as no steamer had come to tlie Falls. Miijor
liaitt(*lot had ('onsid(>red it noocssary hef'ore leavinn on
sncJi Ji jonrney to tcdei.naph the facts to the Commit tee,
also to try to ohtain a steanuM' for the conv(»viui((. ,,f'
Mr.'IVonj) away from the Falls, in case of our f^oiii!^' home
by another route. I considered it n(»cessary to e\|>l!iiu
these matters to Ti])|)U-'l'il), as he setMued to think ihciv
was some other end in view, and had said last nis.',iit
that did we not send the loads, he would s(Mid the hhmi
after Mr. Stanley without them. 'I'his makes me nil
the more certain of what I have thought ever siiuo
reachiniz: lvass()nj;(), that if we had any ro>v with liiiti,
this is what he would do. He told me to-day that Unit-
telot had had a row w^ith Selim iMahommed, and that
N/iii(^ had written to Selim Mahommed, telling him on
no account to liave any row with the Major. Tippii.
Tib could not tell me what it was about. I told liiin
that he must remember that the Major was (luick-
tem])ered, and had been fearfully tried by the loni,'
delay at the cam]) ; that he must not think much about
it, as I kncAV Selim Mahommed Avas the man the Major
Avanted to *?o with us ; that be, the Major, was only
quick-temp(>red, not bad-tempered ; that we all had
had rows with one another in camp; and that we should
be sure to find it all settled when we returned. He
told me that he would wait three days at the Falls,
then start all the men overland from Yalisula for our
camp, and go himself with his chief Arabs up the Aru-
wimi in canoes. He asked me whether I would wait
at the F'alls and accomj^any the men, or go on straight to
our camp. I told him I thought it better to go straight
on to camp. I want to see Major Barttelot before he
sees Tippu-Tib.

May 12th. — Left Riba-Riba just before sunrise, and
camped on the river-bank about an hour before sunset.
Had a long conversation with Tippu-Tib this evening.
He began by asking me how we had obtained India,

1)1 A uy.

293

tho Capo, and rnosr of our Colonics. 1 told liini most
of tluMU hy roncinost, and that t\\v last of tlicin was
HurniJili, wliorc our troops wvw fi^litin^ when wv left
Kiifi:]and. lie said, " ^'ou see all this rivor from
Nvanijjwr to tho Fails, it is all (piiet now, hut when we
first came the nativos wrro very warlike, and wo had to
fi<i;ht ovory villaufo in (urn. Tho lJol«riitiis havo mado me
cliiof of Stanley T'alls Station down to Hanj^ala, and I
want to see all that part of the river like inis. Wliat I
pr()i)()se doinjj; is to fi<^lit each lot of nativos on i)otli sides
of tlic river all the way from Hasoko to Hanj^jila, and
leave men in charj^c of each large place ; h»it the Bel-
gians have never communicated with nu> since I came up
to Staidey Falls last year." I told him 1 was as much
astonished as he was that they had not donc^ so ; we had
often talked tibout it in camp, and Mr. Ward mif^ht say
something about it on his way to Hanana ; their only
excuse could bo tliat they had no steamer. lie then
said, " We were at the Falls long before the Belgians.
I liad been wandering about and fighting in C'entral
Africa for fourteen years, when I mot a Helgian officer
near Tanganyika, who asked me whether I agreed to
the Falls belonging to Belgium. 1 asked him whether
lie had consulted the Sultan of Zanzibar. He said, ' No.*
So I replied, ' Unless the Sultan gives the Falls to you,
I will not.' " Ti[)pu-Tib then saw the Sultan, who at
that time would not have given them up. lie returned
to the Falls, where Mr. l)eane then was, and settled
numerous nuitters about the Lumami lliver and other
places, and again left for Zanzibar, telling his brother
X/ige not to quarrel with Mr. L'eane, b\it that they
ought both rather to try and help one another. Just
after his arrival at Zanzibar, the news was brought to
him of the fighting at the F'alls, and he went straight
to the vSultan, but, as he expressed it, " he found his
power all gone," for the Sultan declined to have any-
thing to do with it. Tippu-Tib told him he would go
to Kngland about it, and he replied, " All right."
Tippu-Tib then went to Mr. Holm wood, who told him
tliere was no occasion to go to England, that he could

M.»y 14
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1888.
May 12.

(V)iig()
BiviT.

I I

I I ! 11

294

STOIir OF THE RE Mi COIJ'MS.

sottlp thr mattor from /im/il)ar, juul the |)n'S('nt stiitc
of affiiirs is the nvsult of that scttlcnicnt. lie said,
hiiifj;hin}if, " If I fiiicl all tho power f^one from the \\v\-
j^ians as it is from the Sultan, then I will tnke ir iill
myself." lie has written to the Kin^ of the Hel<i;iiiiis.
askinjj; him to send two offi(^ers and iil)out thirty men
to the Falls, not to assist him in any fi^ditin^, i)ut as
visihle authority on behalf of the State, durin*; his own
stay there, and in case of his absence* at any time ; hut
ever sim^e the despatch of this hotter (about a year a<,'())
not a word have they sent him to the Falls.

He told me that if no steamer arrived before wo left
Yambuya, he would y^o himself to Ban^ala and ask tni
an explanation, I told him 1 thou«i;ht he was jjerfectly
ri^ht, as they had no business to keep him in susjxmisc
all this time, and that, when Mr. Stanley left, I did not
think he ever expected they would have behaved as
tln^y had done. He said that the Germans had bct'ii
treating with him for that country, but he had told
them that as the Belgians were friends of Fhigland, and
he wished to remain friends with both, lie would settle
matters with the Belgians. I told him that if I could
help him by wilting a letter to Mr. Liebrichts, fully ex-
plaining what his views were on the matter, I would
willingly do so, and he said that if a steamer did not
come before we h^ft he would beg me to do this. He
then asked me what it cost the King of the Belgians w
year. 1 said I believed about £40,000. He asked if
he got any return for this. I said. No ; that the only
people who made any money out of the country were
the trading-houses, Dutch, English, and Portuguese.
Tippu-Tib said, " If he will only give me half of it, 1
will guarantee him a handsome return from a tax on
all i^'ory from Nyangwe to Bangala." The way tlie
Belgians have treated Tippu-Tib seems very strange. He
is extremely anxious to have a definite settlement made
about the matter, and they have kept him for a whole
year without any commimicaticm whatever. Tippu-Tib
naturally cannot understand this way of doing things,
and looks upon it as a decided slight upon himself.

iL.i

UlAUV.

295

MlTNI SoMAI.

}]aj) VMh. Snndaf/. — Stavtcd before sunrise, but did
not do a very <2;ood day's work. We camped on an islnnd
just below the entrance of the Linde River. Ti])j)u-Til)
told me last night that the second chief of Ril)a-J{iba, a
tall dark Arab called Muni Somai, was comin*^ with us,
and would command the men, whether Selim Mahommed
went or not. He seems pleasant, and 'ri])])u-'l'ib says
lie is a good man for the work. When 1 told Assad
Farran of this to-day, he quietly informed me that he
bad known it before, as the other Riba-Riba chief had
told him that Muni Somai was paying Tippu-Tib £oOO
in order to go with us ! Had I not spoken to Assad
about it, he would never have mentioned this to me,
and yet Major IJarttelot's definite orders to him Mere to
find out all he could from the Arabs that had to do
with the Expedition, and to tell it to me at once. I

1888.

M.iv i;j.

Congd
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1888.
May 13.

Congo
River.

290

STOlir OF THE EEAIi COLUMy

asked him this very morning Avlietlier he liad ham]
anything new, and he said " No." lie is the dirtiost.
laziest, and most useless specimen I have had to deal
with, and is simply an encumbrance to me instead of a
help.

May mil. — Got away again before daybreak, and
did the best day's work, "^e have yet done, cam])ing dh
the mainland about an hour before sunset. We o\\[i\\x
to reach Kibonge early to-morrow.

May 15f/i. — Started after sunrise, as it rained heavily
for about an hour. Reached Kibonge at 11 o'clock.
Three of Tippu-Tib's men took some fish from tlie
natives this morning, wh j in their turn took tlie men's
guns. I was "shown into the reception house, wlieie
Kibonge, the chief, Tippu-Tib, and all the head men
were assembled. Among them was a tall dark Arab
with a long black bea'd, exactly like one of the Indian
Sikh Cavalry, who was giving 'I'ippu-Tib all tlie infor-
mation about the men left by Stanley at Eturi, and
about the country itself riiis man is a Soudanese, ,\m\
deserted from Sir Samuel Baker in Uganda. It seems
that ho is the first man who has taught them how to
make soap in this country. On my questioning him,
Tippu-Tib declared he had received no other news of
Stanley than what I already knew. Kibonge himself
conducted me to the same house which I had before
stayed in ! This time, however, I had it to myself, as my
host Kapruta was away fighting the natives at Yan-
kewe, beyond A\'amanga Rapids. Kibonge, the chief,
is exactly like a Chinese mandarin. In the afternoon
I went to see two chimpanzees, just brought by the
natives to an Arab. They are both females, and fine
large specimens. Their owner keeps them in strong
baskets slung from the roof of the verandah, and it is
most amusing to see them rocking themselves backwards
and forwards, evidently enjoying the motion. In the
evening I made a sketch of one of Kapruta's Lights of
the Harnn, called Assimene, whom he has left behind
in charge of the house. One great drawback to art in

DIARY.

297

V ^"^^..^v^

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ASSIMENE.

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Lt Eturi, and

;in 111 strong
ah, and it is
BS backwards
ion. In tho
;a's Lii^'lits of
left beliind
ack to art in

this country is the fact that all the natives and a great
many of the Arabs believe that they will certainly die if
you make a picture of them, and so one loses many
sketched'. Another whole day will have to be spent
liere for the men to collect food, which principally con-
sists of sweet potatoes. The race of the whole fleet of
♦^anoes into Kibongc this morning was a fine sight.

May \(Sth. — Bad news to-day. Three guns were
taken from the last lot of Tippu-Tib's canoes, that went
down the river, by the same natives who took those
yesterday, so men have been sent to recover them, and
we shall have to wait here over to-morro\v. Salem
Masudi told me this morning that he had dreamed last
niglit that he wa^ with me on the march fVoni our
camp, just after we had left it, and that a messenger
arrived to say that Stairs was at Tanganyika, and that
we were to return ajid go down that way. Salem said
that his dreams always came true, and that he was
willing to bet one hundred dollars that we should never
go to the Lake, and that most likely a canoe would
come after us with the news, before we reached the
Falls. Whether this is a quiet way of breaking some
news to me, or an invention of his brain, remains to be

1888. ,
May 1.5.

Kibonifo.

1888.
May 16.

Kibongc.

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298

STORY OF Tllh: lilCAR COLUMN.

proved. I asked Tippu-Tib in Kibonge's presence this
afternoon whether any of Mr. Stanley's men liad reached
this place. He turned round and asked Kibongc, wlio
assured him that none had come here, and that all the
men that Stanley had left were still at Eturi. He adcled
they were all sick, and could not move when left.
Tippu-Tib then said to me, " If one or two men had
reached this place, I should have known it, for I am
just as anxious to sec them as you are." Took a
sketch of one of the chimpanzees to-day, but it would
not remain still for one instant.

Maji 17th. — After breakfast I went to see 'JMppu-Til),
and found with him Muni Somai, the chief from liiba-
Riba, who has a fine, good-natured, intelligent face,
and I like the little 1 Lave seen of him. I told him I
hoped we should soon Know one another, and be good
friends, as we should have to spend a iong time to-
gether. Thank goodness ! the guns have been returned,
and we shall get away to-morrow. Kibonge came to
my house and we had a long talk. He told me that ho
was here before Mr. Stanley went down the Cong(j, and
that he had sent with him men to help him ; that Staiik^y
had given him and his men nothing, and that the only
thing he got was a present of a 20 lb. keg of gun-
powder from Ngalyema, the native chief at Stanley
Pool. He said that if Mr. Stanley had behaved w-ell to
him then, he would have sent all his men after him
now. He told me that he had been with Livingstone,
■Nvith the chief Sekrutu, and the Makalolos. It took liim
five years' hard fighting to conquer the country in which
he now is. He said he would have found me in food,
and taken me through tlie Avhole of Equatorial Africa,
for the money which I paid Mr. Stanley. The camp at
Eturi, on the Aruwimi River, is only one month's journey
from the Lake. He was as much astonisiied as all the
other Arabs at my coming on this Expedition, but cam(>
to the conclusion that " white men are curious ])(M)ple."
He asked me if Stanley w^ould make me no return in the
way of money or land, and was greatly astonisiied wlien

iiiji-^.^j

I ■{>■■'

JJfAEY.

299

I tolfl liim that I slioulcl not make a farthincj out of the

whole Expedition ! There is a fence of about 10 ft. in

height all round the yard at tlie

back of the house, and I succeeded

to-day, after much persuasion, in

gettini' a Avoman, who had come

in to sell manioc, to stand for a

sketch. I had hardly begun to

draw, when she made a race at

the fence, went over it like a bird,

and alighted like a sack of coals

on the other side. I saw no more

of her. Tippu-Tib sent forme this

morning to look at a large bunch of

plantains. Two men were carrying

it, and it measured 6 ft. 9 in. in

leiigth, and had nine points of

fruit upon it.

Mai/ ISfh. — Got away early,
before the market opened, and
reached the rapids above those at
Warn cm ga. The river was so low
that everything had to be taken
out of the canoes and carried over-
land. Two of the canoes were
very nearly lost.

Bunch op PLANTAiNb.

Ma// 19///. — Tippu-Tib's canoe did not get over until
late, and Ave had to wait at the head of the Wamiinga
Rapids until he arrived. There are about forty canoc^s
belonging to Kibongc coming up the rapids, which
causes a delay. Tippu-Tib camped at the head of the
rapids, and 1 followed suit. He told us that Major
liai Itelot would meet us at the Falls ; he also told me
all about himself and Mr. Stanley, at the time when the
latter crossed Africa. Tippu-Tib was at Kassongo,
when Mr. Stanley arrived there and told him he wanted
to go up north int;> tlie Munza country, promising li'm
a lot of uKHiey if he would help him. He started with

1888.
May 17.

Kibonge

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STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

May 19.

Wamangn
Kttpids.

Stanley, taking a number of men, and they went for about
fifteen days, through thick forest, water, and irnui
Tippu-1'ib had tokl Stanley that it would take tlit'in
sixty days, but the road was so bad that Stanley asked
Tippu to take him back to the Congo that he mit>lit
go down the river. They went back accordingly, and
struck the river at the rapids, a day below Nyang\v(>.
Here they tried to obtain canoes from the natives, but
as they could not get them they put the boat together,
crossed, fought the natives, and got canoes. Stanley and
his men then proceeded down the river in the boat and
canoes, whilst Tippu-Tib went along the bank. They
journeyed on thus io Kasujku, wlien Tippu-Tib decicknl
to return. Mr. Stanley agreed to liis doing so, but when
he wished to start all liis men deserted, and said tliey
were going back with Tippu-Tib. He went to Tippu,
who promised to make it all right. Next morning, how-
ever, Stanley went again to Tippu, and told him that if
he allowed his men to desert, and go back with him, lie
would write to the Sultan of Zanzibar, and ha\'e all liis
country taken away from him. Tippu-Tib then told
Mr. Stanley's men that he would shoot any of them wlio
followed him (iippu), and at last got them into the
canoes, and saw them start. Mr. Stanley said to liiin,
" If I cannot get through, I will return, so wait here
for some time ; but if I get through, I don't know what
present will be good enough to send you, for it will make
a great name for me, aii.:l much money. I will send you
my watch, which is a very valuable one, my gun, my
tent, and anything you may fancy of mine," and then
bade him good-bye. From that day to this he never
sent him a thing, and Tippu-Tib told him so on board
the Madura. Mr. Stanley replied, " Did you not i>et
the beautiful cloth and gun I sent you '? " Tippu said,
*' No. You sent the gun, a Winchester, to the Sultan,
and the cloth to Terria 'I'opin." There was a slnnt
amusing scene, I hear, to-day, when some of the natives,
who were getting the canoes over the rapids, tried to run
away. There was a grand hunt over the rocks and
through the water.

DIARY.

301

A' M

May 20th^ Strndaf/. — Struck tnits soon after day- J^.^
broak. It is a fine sijifht to see the canoes shoot the „r ^^ " '

/•I • 1 1 • 1 1 1-11 Wanianga

Inst piece oi the rapids, whicli the;' do njijlit down the RapidB.
centre fall. Sometimes lialf of the canoe is clean out
of the water. Four were smashed and lost, ))ut no one
wa« drowned. It is a curious siglit to see one of these
oient, long canoes slioot up in the air, and i\wn come
crash down on a rock, when the longer half may he
seen standing straiglit on end, and whirling round and
round, only to disn])pear suddenly for good and all.
I got a sketch of Tippu-Tib to-day, and one of IMuni
Somai.

jif , ; il

May 21sf. — Two more canoes were smashed this
morning, but Ti})pu did not wait to buy more ; we wont
straight on till sunset, wlien we camped at Yankewe.
Tliere is not a native to be seen, and only the cliarred
ruins remain of their villages, Kibonge's men have
done their ruthless work thoroughly. The natives sent
a present of ivory to Nzige, begging him to intercede
for them, which he did.

May 22nd. — Started before sunrise and reached
Stanley Falls at sunset. Found ^fajor Bartteh)t and
Mons. Van Kerckhoven, the chief of Bangala, here, the
latter having come up in the S.S. A. I. A.., on hearing
of Tippu-Tib's annoyance at the non-arrival of any
steamer. It is a real pleasure to talk to a white man
again. It appears that Selim Mahommed has been
trying to turn the natives against us, and there has
been serious trouble between his men aud ours. At
one time, from his misbehaviour, the camp was con-
sidered to be ill danger.

May 23r<Z. — Major Barttelot had a long interview
to-day with Tippu-Tib, who said he could only give us
400 men altogether, and pretended that he did not un-
derstand at Kassongo that the 400 men asked for then
were to be extra, besides the 600 already promised ;
yet at my interview with him on April 12th, at Kas-

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1888.
May 23.

Stanley
Fall!.

302

STOltr OF THE IIKAR COLUMN.

songo, ho distinctly stated to mo tluit the payment for
the 600 men ho would settle with Stanley, and that he
would leave the payment for the 400 extra men until
our return. Every man of tlie 400 now given caine
with us from Kassongo this time, and he told me him-
self, on my arrival there, that lie had already sent away
700 men. Judging from the niimher I met coming to
the Falls on my road to Kassongo, in addition to tlio
250 already sent to the Aruwimi, he must have sent
about 700, and I have not the slightest doubt that ho
would have given them all to us, had it not been for
the arrival of Moas. Van Kerckhoven. This has caused
him to hold back the men, either for fear of trouble
with the Belgians, or in consequence of Van Kerckhoven
having informed him that he would give him a pro-
tectorate over all the iVruwimi and up to the Wolli',
or Mobange, where Selim Mahommed's people liare
already been, and advised iiim to put as many men
into that country as possible. It is a very serious blow
to us. Muni Somai agreed to come as commander of
the 400 men supplied by Tippu-Tib, on the payment
of £1,000, and a right to any ivory he might get on the
road. Tippu-Tib swore that he did not care whether
he was paid one farthing for his men. He stipulated,
however, that they were not to go into Uganda, and
were to return to his territory, either to Stanley Falls,
Kassongo, or Ujiji. Barttelot has explained to Tippu-
Tib his differences with Selim Mahommed. Tippii
himself, and several other Arabs, said he was a bad man,
and no friend to the white men. It is agreed that we
start the day after to-morrow.

Maf/ 2ifh. — Tippu-Tib came over early and settled
everything iinally with us, and then had an interview
with Van Kerckhoven. Tippu-Tib requested us not to
go until the day after to-morrow. Wrote out agree-
ments between Muni Somai and ourselves ready for
signing, and bought fowls for the road.

May 25//<. — Went over to the other side before

- '%

DIARY.

ii\JO

bioakftist, and aot the nmooinonts simuHl. Iii the „'^^v
at'tcriioon crossed attain, to say good-bye to old Nasoro g,„„|,y
Masudi. FaiisL

May 2Cith. — A terrific storm of wind and rain came
on last night, and fairly flooded me ont of my bed.
We did not get away until after luncli, having said
good-bye to Tippu-Tib, and all tlie chief Arabs. We
stopped at Tatiacusu for the night. We are eighty men
short of the 400, but Tippu-Tib says we sliall get those
at our camp. lie himself follows in three days with
Van Kerckhoven in the A. 1. A. Muni Somai follows
to-morrow. Van Kerckhoven has been mmv kind indeed
to US, giving us everything he could s])are, and doing
all he could to help us.

Mnji 21fJi, Sunda//. — Started at daylight, and reached
Yangumbi, below Yalisula, about 3 o'clock. Men met
us in canoes from every village, without our having to
land, and took us on to the next. The head munia-
para did not arrive until late, and as Muni Somai did
not turn up, we had some difficulty in arranging about
caiTiers.

May 2Sth. — Muni Somai arrived, and settled the
question of carriers by giving us forty. Did not get
away until 11.30, and camped at the third water. The
road is a very good one, so far the best I have seen in
this country.

May 2dth. — Got away at 7 o'clock, and camped at a
village called Yerina. The road was bad, owing to a
quantity of ( ane-brake.

May dOfh. — Barttelot went on ahead to the camp,
while I followed with the earners. Passed a number
of the Aruwimi natives (under two Arabs), who were
being taken from near our camp to fight some natives
on the Congo. When Abdullah Karongo guided me
to Stanley Falls the first time, he had natives with him
from close to Stanley Falls, whom he had employed to

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304

/SrOi?!' OF THE BEAR COLUMN.

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^^'^ fipjlit the Aruwimi natives. The miiniapara with our
Rfitiirn to carriers got drunk on malafu, or palm-wine, to-day, and
Yambu^a fell ofF a log into a deep spot in one of the rivers,
greatly to every one's amusement.

Ma?/ 3l5#. — Reached camp before 11 o'clock. I was
quite glad to get back to the old place again, for it lias
been a kind of home to me for a long time. Found
Troup very ill in bed, and to-day he sent in an ap])li-
cation to Major Barttelot to be sent home, whicli was
granted. Busy repacking rice all the afternoon. Selini
Mahommed came into •^-arup and gave me a most

^^S^.-"^

A New Way of Catching Chickens.

affectionate greeting. Over eighty men have died in
this camp altogether, and there are a good many little
better than dead. I can see that I have a heavy task
before me in the reduction of the loads. Barttelot has
too much writing to do to be able to help, Troup is ill
in bed, and Bonny has a very bad hand which quite
incapacitates him from doing any work whatever, so that
I must do the whole lot myself.

June 1st. — Busy reducing loads all day. Muni
Somai arrived, and said that Selim Mahommed will do
no tiling for nim. He can get no fish, and says he
came away in such a hurry th^.t he has no rice, or any-
thing to eat, and no clothes for his women I

DIARY.

305

June 2nd. — A hard day aj^ain at the stores. ,^^^,

^ '^ June 2.

June nnl, Sunday. — All day a^ain at the stores. ^•'"*'">''
Heavy rain.

June ith. — All day at the ammunition boxes. The
Sfun/etj and tlie A. I. A. arrived, hringin«j^ Ti])j)u-
Tib, Alons. Van (iule, Mons. liaert, who is to be
Tippu-Tib's secretary, and Mons. A'an Kerckhoven, and
tlie new Bel<»ian officer for Stanley Falls Station. 'Hie
Stanleij brought a great number of letters, principally
for Troup and Bonny. My share of them, alas! con-
sisted only of a receipt from llowland AV'ard for things
scut home with Mr. Walker. No news of Mr. Stanley.
^^'ard cannot possibly return before July. Thank good-
ness, Mr. Werner, the engineer of the A. I. J., has
offered his services in assisting; me with the ammu-

niticm, and
steamers.

bringing

three carpenters from the

June bth. — Busy again all day and part of the
night at the stores. Barttelot had an interview with
Tippu-Tib, and succeeded in g(;tting thirty more men.

June Qth. — Still at loads all day, and busy at night
writing out list, &c., for the Major. Mons. Van (iele
has agreed to keep the steamers here until Saturday,
we having given him six goats as food. Barttelot again
interviewed Tippu-Tib, and obtained fifteen slaves for
his 500 express rifle.

June 1th, — Busy day at the loads. Tippu-Tib and
Muni Somai signed agreements, on receiving part pay-
ipont of their money. I hear that the relations be-
tween Tippu-Tib and Van Kerckhoven are decidedly
strained at present. We discovered three parts of a
bottle of whiskey in an old box of William's, the last
remains of that which I brought from England. Needless
to remark, it was seized upon, and consumed at intervals
during the next three days. I have not had a moment
of time to pack my collection or to write home.

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1888.
June 8.

Vainbuya.

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306

STORY OF Till': RI'JAJt COLUMN.

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June Sth. — 'I'ho loads that Tippu^Tib's people arc to
carry were handed over to him to-day. A good many
of them were a pound or two over tlie exact weight,
and he refused point-blank to carry them, althou;i;h
yesterday he himself handled many of those now obje(;tc'd
to, and said they were peri'ectly right. Whilst re-
packing them, I had called Harttelot's attention to tho
fact that some of them were over weight, asking hini
if he thought it would matter, to which lie replied,
" Certainly not." We therefore cannot start to-morrow,
but must re-open a number of the cases, and reduce them,
in many cases by only two small packets of cartridges.
The chief objection raised was that the specially packed
Remington ammunition had not been reduced. Troup
was carried on board the Stanley this evening.*

June Qth. — Got all the loads finished to-day. The
Stanley and A. I. A. left for Stanley Falls.

June lOifA, Sunday. — Gave out loads, guns, &c.
Nearly all the caps turn out to be bad. When packin<if
them on board the S.S. Madura, I tried some of them,
and told Mr. Stanley that they were bad, but he would
not listen to me ; the consequence is, we have liad to
buy 40,000 from Tippu-Tib. I had just time to pack
my collections roughly, but God knows how they will all
get home ! I am sending them by Tippu-Tib to Stanley
Falls, there to await the arrival of Mr. GreshofF, whom
I have asked to forward them home. Had scarcely an
hour left to write my letter for home.

* From a letter to Mr. Andrew Jameson, dated June Sth : — " Major
Barttelot and I have had to sign our names to an agreement to pay the
man going in charge of the 400 men, of Tippu-Tib's, the sum of .£1,000
on the completion of our journey after Mr. Stanley and Emin Pasha.
AVe are almost certain the Committee will give this sum ; but, so that
there may be no mistake about it, Major Barttelot has asked his father
to place J6500 to his credit at Zanzibar, in about six months' time ; so
I want you to send me a letter of credit for that amount in about six
or seven months."

iN.

people arc to

A good many

exact weight,

hem, althou<j:h

;e now objected

Whilst ru-

ttention to the

ht, asking liiin

ch lie replied,

tart to-morrow,

id reduce them,

of cartridges.

pecially packed

luced. Troup

;ning.*

1 to-day. The

is.

[Is, guns, &c.
When packing
some of them,
but he would
J have had to
time to pack
>wthey will all
Tib to Stanley
reshofF, whom
ad scarcely an

LRTrER.

LE'ITKR TO MRS. JAMESON.

307

Yambuya Camp,
June 8th, IH88.

.... Ward is away down the Congo sending
telegrams to England. Troup has just gone off in the
Stnnley^ I fear in a dying state, leaving only liarttelot,
honny, and myself to do all the work. Honny lias a
frightfully bad hand, whicli prevents his doing anything
at all, and the Major's time is entirely taken up with
official correspondence, so I liave had a bad timi? of it.
I have had to convert nearly 500 loads of 00 l})s. each
into loads of 40 lbs. each, and write out all the lists,
&c., for the Major. We start the day after to-morrow,
and I have had not one atom of time to pack my col-
lections, and the steamers are gone. 1 don't know
what I shall do. I will try and get Tippu-Tib, who is
heie, to take them to Stanley Falls for me, where they
may catch one of the Belgian steamers. We have only
got 400 men from Tippu-Tib after all his promises to
me at Kass(mgo, so we have to leave many of our loads,
but are going to do our best to reach the liake, and
find out something about Stanley and Emin Pasha. . . .
I do hope we shall be able to get home in about nine
months from now. ... It was so sad to see the steamer
arrive the other day, and not a letter for me *. I am
to do all the advance work of the march ; Mr. Bonny

will be in the centre, and the Major in the rear

The next news you will hear from me will be a tele-
gram from Zanzibar, telling you I am just leaving for
England. Not one word of news have I had since your
letter from Italy of April, a year ago ; it is this entire
lack of news that makes it so hard to one. And now I
must bid you a long good-bye, and may God bless and
guard you and our little ones until my return. . . .

* By some inexplicable mischance, Jameson's letters were detained
at Banana, and even upon Mr. Walker's application for them, with a
written order from Jameson, they were not given up to him. — Ed.

1HH8.
•Tune 8,

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CHxVPTEK TX.

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1888.
Juno 11.

Fiual start from Yanibuya fanip. — ]Manyf'^mas loot tho camp. — Alxlnlliili's
villai^t'. — Muni Soniai has trouble with Manvtmias. — Fourtoon lucii de-
sert. — .Iiimeson returns to Yanibuya in search of missing loads. — Si liiu
Malmmined guarantees to recover loads and riiles. — Mort! desertions,—
8m;iU-pi)x. — 31uui Soniai goes in search of deserters, nnd is Ihed at.—
Thet'l of heads. — Trouble with the jNIuniaparas. — A long day of disastfr.
— Major Harttelot returns to Stanley Falls, leaving .Jameson in (niii-
mand. — Fresh trouble wiili Manyilmas. — Jameson arrives at Ujele.--
Takes over command from IJonny. -Muni Somai utterly useless us a
commander. — Mquangandy. — Letters from Barttelot ordering wliok'
force to ])roceed to Unaria. — War amongst head men.— A nv^htfii-^il/itik'.
— Bonny loses his way. — Muni llamela hands over to Jameson 40,000
Enfield caps. — News of Major liarttelot's death.— Arrival at Uiiariii.—
Interview with three head Manyemas. — Jameson offers reward for
Sanga's arrest. — Jameson proceeds to Stanley Falls. — Finds the .Mmi-
y^inas camped in forest. — Meets Muni Somai. — Nasoro Masudi wains
Jameson that Manyemas have threatened to shoot him. — Anival at
Stanley Falls. - Interview with Tippu. — Muni Soniai tried and cdu-
victed of desertion. — Letter to Andrew Jameson. ^ — Letter to Mrs. Jame-
son. — Rachid declines to accompany Jameson. — Tippu volunteers to dn
so for £'20,000. — Trial and death of Sanga. — Jameson determines to fjo
to Bangala in order to obtain reply from Committee. — 31r, Stanley ':<
letter to Jameson.

DIARY {continued).

June nth, Sitedi's Tillage. — Thank God, we have loft
Yambuya Camp at hi>st, and I hope for good. Got all the

Jll;

•nnip. — Alxliillair.^
Foiii'tcoii nirll ilc-
siiijr loads. — S.liiu
M(ir(! (li'sertioiis.—

imd is tired at.—
U'^ day (if disastrr.

laint'Hon in Cdin-
rrivt's at IJielf.—
ttevly iisclt'ss as u
it ordi'i'iriir wliolo
-A iii<>lit fii^ilhiile,
to Jami'smi 4(),00U
nival at Uiiavia.—

otlbi's reward i'fir

— Finds the Mun-
soro Masiidi warns
t him. — Anival at
mi tried and con-
!tter to Mrs. .laiiie-
)u volunteers to do
u determines to jro
tee. — Mr. Stanley's

OivJ t^lu,^ Cttwy6 ^-^ f^«v. i'^ '^"^ 'l *-• ^»r**M*

Fac-simii,k ok a Pkn-anu-Ink Sketcu nv J. S. Jameson. [Paye ;50b ]

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DIARY.

311

moil and loads started at 7.30. Before we had actually
quitted the cam]), and were standinfj^ outside, 'rip])u-Tib's
people made a rush in, and looted everythin*;; remaining
in it. I had left five cases in my house, containing all
my natural history collections and curios firmly screwed
down, and in charge of Mons. 15aert, Tippu-Tib's new
l)(>li>ian secretary, who was kind enough to say he
would look after them for me, until Mr. Greshoffs
arrival at the Falls, to which place 'J'ippu-Tib had pro-
mised to take them himseif. The following letter from
Mons. Baert, sent after me, will show w hat happened
to them : —

Dear Sir,

I have a bad news to announce you. Whilst I was
going to ask Tippu to take your loads, the Manyemas
came in the camp, and robbed all what they could.
Just in returning I saw one man with one of your
boxes, and I took it with me. But when I arrived at
your house, I find one of your boxes broken and all that
was in it stolen. I immediately made a furious talk to
Tippu, and his man slave been send over the camp.
Lucky have found of your boxes, and I will do all what
I can to have the rest, but I have not a great hope. I
am very sorry of that, but I assure you it is not my
fault. It is a good lesson for my future conduct with
tliose beggars. A last time, good chance, and my cora-
pHments to Major and Mr. Bonny.

Yours sincerely,

A. Baert.

You may imagine my feelings on receiving this note.
Our men followed the example of the Manyemas, and
before starting fired off about twenty rounds before we
could stop them. They marched well, and seemed
willing. Frightful bother with Muni Somai's loads in
cani]>. Men continually firing off guns. The road lay
for the mr)st part up the bed of streams, which made
the going bad.

1888.
June 11,

Siiedi'a
Villrtge.

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Jvne \1fh. — Reached Abdullah's village at the rapids

jiia.

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312

STOJiY OF THE HEAR COLUMN.

1888.
June 12.

Abdullah's
Village.

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about 4 o'clock. The road is the worst I have seen in
this country, lying through old plantations, overgrown
with manioc,, and full of large fallen timber, with one
bad river to cross. Muni Somai's men did not start
until after us, and only reached a village not quite iialf-
way, where they camped. Bonny's donkey could nut
get over the fallen timber, and was left on the road. A
little more than half-way here we crossed Stanley's
road, running parallel to the river about a mile above it.
Tlie riien came along very well. No loads lost. I fear
there will be trouble before long between (jur men and
the Manyemas. Our men are afraid of them, but taunt
thein for not carrying heavier loads, and for being can-
nibals, as, for a fact, the majority of them are. Canoes
pass the rapids here up the northern bank. There are
hil)pos below the rapids on the southern bank. This is
one of the advanced posts of tlie Arabs on the Arn-
wimi, and was formed by an Arab of Tippu-Tib's called
Abdullah Corona, after our arrival at Yambuya this time
last year, when it was a native village. It is now in
the charge of an Arab called Sala Sala ; it possesses
four or five laige Arab houses, and many smaller
ones, and promises to be a large post. Abdullah has
formed another camp at Unaria, about nine days from
here, higher up the river, which is Tippu-Tib's most
advanced post. The only other Arab camp is at Eturi,
said to be within a month of Take Albert Nyanza,
formed by Arabs from Kibonge on the Congo, the head
of it being Lugalowa, an Arab and a freed slave.

June V6fh. — Halted all day. Muni Somai's men
began to pass through about 11 o'clock, but he himself,
with the rear-guard, did not come in until two hours
later. Had a busy day, mending helmet, boots, revolver,
holster, &c., and making a bed. One man ran away
yesterday with two guns.

June 14th. — Started at 6.30 from Abdullah's camp,
and reached the last native village between it and one
of Nasoro bin Saef s, which is five days further on. I
arrived about 10 o'clock, the rear at 11 o'clock. Tlie

•Mk

i' |.i;

DIAliY.

313

18PS.
June 14.

Native
Village.

load lay for the first hour amon<;st low hush and
manioc plantations, then throu<jj]i a largo village into
a sAvamp, and on to anotlier long native village of
huts sliaped exactly like hee-hives (not the candle-
extinguisher type met with lower df)wn tlie river); then
]iassing very large plantations of manioc and plan-
tains, led through another village into this one. Muni
Somai says his men cannot start till the day after to-
morrow, as they have to collect four days' food. The
Major decided upon going on slowly to Nasoro hin
Saefs village to-morrow (as his men had plenty of
time to get food), and to leave me to follow with Muni
Somai and look after his loads. A few of the worst
men made a complaint about starting, but none of the
(rood ones, which makes the Major all the more anxious
to start to-mon'ow. Muni Somai seems very anxious to
(jot on well with us, and to make the whole thing a
success, but he evidently has a good deal of trouble
with the Manyemas.

Jinie Ibth. — The Major, Bonny, and myself all break-
fasted together before daylight, 'i'ents wore struck, the
mou took their loads, and all went quietly off, only my
own carriers and bags remaining with me. Just after thev O'"" ''^p
had left. Muni Somai brought me one of our rifles, and .smliiii;"" '
said that one of his men liad caught one of ours deserting '""k <me
in the night, and had tied him up, but in the morning sick
the man had gone, having left his rifle. He told me
tliat after the Major had gone, Dahomey, the head man
in charge of our goats, had passed, going back on our
old road, and when stopped had stated that the Major
liad ordered him to go after the other man to tiy and
catch him. I told Muni Somai to send men after him
at once, and started off to the far \illago next Sala Sala's
myself, offering a reward there to any man wlio would
catch him. I had just returned, Avhen the Major came
back into camp, telling me that fourteen men with their
loads and rifles had bolted between this and his camp,
about four hours from hero. Tie said thoy might have
lost their road, but he thought not, and returnod I'o his

irom
niiU!.

rm.

nil

314

STORY OF Till': REAR COLUMN.

1888.
June ir».

Sain

Salii's
Village.

camp to see. About 4 o'clock I received a note from
him, by the man Avho brou<ijht me some meat, saying
eleven loads were missing, amongst them three boxes of
provisitms, one double load of medicines, and two bales
of our most valuable cloth, as well as that for present
expenditure. He asked me to start for Sala Sala's at
once, whicli I did. The meat had gone bad, so 1 liad
nothing to eat but a little rice, and a few biscuits to
take with me. Got into Sala's village before dark. He
told me he knew nothing about the loads, but had sent
in two of our rifles (which the man Mabruki had run
away with on our second march) to Selim Mahommed,
so I determined to start for Yambuya at daybreak and
Ki^vcrillr get the rifles if I could not get the loads. About 10
by Selim o'clock P.M. Salcm scut me in a little rice, and a chicken
medtome. the size oi a sparrow.

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June IQith. — Started about an hour after daylight;
reached Yambuya before 10 o'clock, although the
swamps and paths were very bad from the rising of the
rivers. Saw Bonny's donkey quietly grazing in the
village where we slept the flrst night. Selim Mahom-
med sent out men at once to stop all the roads to the
Falls, and told me that though he meant to start for
Singatini next morning, he would wait and do all lie
could to recover the loads. He had a big chief with
him from the country due north of the Aruwimi at
Yambuya, called Golema. The country of which he
is chief is Oockwa, on the AVelle River, the people
being named Wackwa. He is a fine-looking native,
dressed like an Arab, and he wishes to see and treat
with Tippu-Tib, fearing that he means to invade liis
country; he has brought him a present of sixty-seven very
fine tusks of ivory. It was into his country that SeHm
Mahommed went north of our camp. It is a comjili-
cated business. Mons. Van Gele, in the A. I. A.^ has
been up the Mobange or Welle, and eiuleavoured to
treat with his people, and Selim Mahommed's men
attacked him from the south, overland, and he is now
going to treat with Tippu-Tib, little dreaming that

DIARY.

315

Ti})pu and ^'an Gclo are botli officers of the same Free
State. I wonder how much of the ivory the Free State
will ^et ! After a fru<i;al meal of some rice, tiavoured with
fish, 1 tramped back to Sala Sala's, ^ettin<2j in there at
5 o'clock, too late to start for our camp. Salem again
orave mo a sparrow, and havin«2^ liad no breakfast 1 went
to bed des])erately hunj.ny, but more sorry for my dog,
who had fared worse. No news of nuui or loads.

June 17th, Stnidny. — Started at daylight, and reached
Muni Somai's camp at 8 o'clock. No news of loads.
About an hour later the Major arrived, when we inter-
viewed Muni Somai. Selim Mahomrned had told me,
and had written the same to Muni Somai, that if we would
wait five or six days, he would guarantee to get us back
the loads and rifles. This decided the Major to leave
me here witli Muni Somai until FViday, as tlio loads are
about the most important we possess, nud to start himself
to-morrow morning for Nasoro bin Saefs village, five days
from here, where he will await us. He wrote all the
fiicts of the case to Tippu-Tib, and asked his aid. This
village consists of a long double row of small pent-
house-shaped liuts ; it is called Wobari, being inhabited
by the Wonga Wobari. Not two miles nearer Sala
Sala's is a big village similarly shaped, of huts like bee-
hives, and built of large dried i«^aves. This is Bungari;
the people are called Wonga 15ungari. The tribes
seem to be very much mixed. In some villages the
three distinguishing huts, viz., the candle-extinguisher
type, as at Yambuya, beehive-shaped, as at Bungari, and
pcut-house-sha])ed, as at Wobari, are all found re})re-
seuted. I have made sketches of both the latter villages,
showing the different huts. Just after our interview a
perfect torrent of rain came down, and although I had
a trench round my tent, it quickly filled with sand and
water.

June IMh. — Spent most of my day in cleaning rifles,
revolvers, ike, and in copying my diary to Kassongo and
back, in ink. I was greatly astonished, at 5 p.m., l)y the
arrival of Muni Hamcse, one of the Zanzibari munia-

1888.
•lime 16.

Siilii's

Village.

r I;

.m-y-

iiir

•I,

i j

31G

STOItr OF THE REAR COLUMN,

1888.
Juno 18.

Wobari
Village.

P"!

paras, with a note from the Major. More dosortions
have takoii place. Municliaiuli, one of the men whom
we most trusted, has bolted with his rifle, and the tlv
of the Major's tent. A man called Rasasi has jroul,
also with two rifles. Munichandi left this pla( e witli
another man late last evenin<ij, for the Major's camp. {
asked him before he started where he had been, and ho
said only to the next villai>;e. I thou«jjlit somethino; ^v;^s
wrong, so I sent a note to the Major telling him J iniii.
gined Munichandi had been either to Sala Sala's villimc
or with the deserters. It a])])ears that Nlunichandi told
him he had been to Sala Sala's village for food. I thouglit
of kecjung him here last night, but the Major Avould ]ia\ c
been short of two carriers this morning, and I felt th;it
should he suspect him, after questioning him, th(> inaii
wovdd be safer under a guard of Soudanese on the iiiaicli
than here, 'i'his man, Munichandi, came to me duriiio'
our first marcli from ^'ambuya, and begged to ha\-e his
load lightened, as he Avanted to be ahead with m{\ and
help to stack the loads and pitch the tents. I kiunv ho
was a useful man, and gave him a very light load. This
is tlie result. It is awful to think that the very moii
one trusts most, and is kindest to, may bolt at aiiv
moment, ])erha])s with all one's diaries, drawings, ikv.
I left Vambuya full of bright hopes, but I must say tliev
have received rather a damper at the start. Muni Sonuii
received a letter from SelimMahonuned to-day, saying lie
had sent natives after the /anzibaris in every direction.
and had stopi^ed the roads, and hoped to catch them in
two or three davs at most.

Twoi-ifles JuiW l^tli . — Tliis momiug Muni Somai brought a
MuiiT ^ lifle and a sack witli corn-flour in it. He says that last
Somai. night oue of the deserters, called Ilamadi bin Masuri.
had tried to })ass through the village next to Sala Sala's.
When stop])e(l, he flung down his rifle and the sa( k and
bolted, getting clean away. I think they must be mis-
taken in their man, as Hamadi was cariying a sack of
cloth, not corn. Just as I was going to have my dinner.
some of Muni Somai's men brought in a deserter with

I)/ Any.

317

his liile ; they had caniijlit him in tlic husli. lie is an
old man who was em])l()y('d as a i;'()at-(h'iMM', not bein^-
stion<^ enon^li to carry a full load. I tied him u]) witli
the three natives, under the Soudanese, and ij^ave the
man who cani>'ht him twenty matakas. Muni Somai says
lie has ordered all his men to come into this villii<j^e, hut
that they are not like /an/il)aris, who ohev at once; they
are hard people to deal with. Jle told iue he want(ul
to start the day after to-morrow, as his men were iicttini^
sick, and that he was i?oini>- to Sida Sala's villai^-e to-
morrow. I tohl him I was just as anxious to <>'et ahead
as he was, but that the recovery of our loads was most
iin])ortant to us. I was ^"oinj;- to Sala Sala's myself to
trv to shoot some bufffdoes nc^ar there, but as Muni Somai
is ii;oini»; I will remain in camj). lie is very anxious to
start, as four of his men in another village have <»-ot
small-pox ; this is evidently his reason for not getting
them together.

June 2()th. — Muni Somai left for Sala Sala's vidage
after breakfast. Sadi, one of his head men, brought me
three sacks of beads and one of cowries, which were
damaged and required sewing. I ])ointed out to him
that a (piantity of beads had been taken out of one of
the sacks, but he only said he knew nothing about it.
A heavy storm of rain, thunder, and wind came up
about 1 o'clock, and it rained steadily on until sunsc^t.
One of Muni Somai's men came in about an hoin- after
dark, to say he was not coming back to-night, but would
sl(>ep in Sala Sala's village. lie had recovered two
rifles, a box of tea, and some matakas, also a sick man,
hut no loads. It is a nuisance, his stopping away, as I
want to go there myself to-morrow, and mend any boxes
()]• sacks that were broken in the two villages where his
men are, as they evidently don't mean connng in until
we start.

Jime 21d. — Awoke with a bad cold, which I hope
will go off before we start, as on the road one is wc^t all
(lay long. Muni Somai did not arrive until aft(M* 5
o'clock, which prevented my going to thi> other villager.

ISS.'^.
Jim.' lit.

Wohiiri
N'illage.

■Ij

f- ;(

ii|T-

[fr -r

; .h \ ,

. ■

'ill ^ ' '

' ; 1

III-

■^

M \\'

!l :i

r ■ i

I r

; ill

I :|

188fi.
June 21.

Wobiiri
Tillage.

;]18

sTojtr OF 77/ a; ufaii column.

lie seemed very worried and tired. He told me that last
iii<i;lit natives liad eome in to SalaSala's villajjje, re])()rtiiiir
that some of the (U^serters were cam[)e(l in a vilhm'c
some distance from the river to the south. Muni
8omai and Sala Sahi them started for the village with
some of their men, takiii<ij the natives as u^uides. Upon
their approach one of i\w /anzibaris jumped up out of
the path and ran into the village shouting, " The white
man is coming." Mun^ Somai and liis men ran ii,.
when one of t' '^ de^' ^-cm- tired ;. shot ^t him; they all
bolted, ij^ 0ii(j \wu^'X (aiiglit or shot. They left six
rifles., a bottle of <>;!. u lot of clotli, cartridge-belts, ^c.
Altogether Muni ►Somai L. i^led over to me: 8 rifles, 10
pieces of cloth, 2 tins mihv, 1 tin cocoa (broken), 1
bottle salt, 1 lot broken candles, 1 box tea open (iiox
had been used for cooking), 86 matakas, 1 cartridufc-
pouch, 1 packet cartridges, 2 cartridge-belts, 1 bar soap.
No loads were recovered. From what we found it is
evident that they have broken open and are using tlie
provision boxes and cloth, but so far no signs of tho
medicine-chest. The natives tell Muni Somai that soitk^
of them belonging to another village have caught and
eaten three of the deserters. He promised me to uot
all his men in to-morrow, and to start on Saturday. Six
or seven of them new have the smaU-pox. I saw ono
man with it here in the camp to-day. Sala Sala told
Muni Somai that he feared Tippu-Tib too much either to
hide the men or take the loads. I wish I had another
officer with me, so that I could leave him here and go
and have a hunt for them myself, l^'rom the evidence
of a small skin pouch found in the deserters' camp, ray
men say that Mabruki, the deseicer from Stanley, was
one of them.

June '12nd. — Another capture Avas made to-day, and
by one of my ow^n men. He was out in the direction
of the Major's first camp, where, I believe, there is
plenty of manioc, and he saw a man trying to run away;
shouting out that he would fire, he went up to him and
found it was Rasasi, with two rifles. He was one of
the men who bolted the day Major Barttelot left this

id-:!!-!' ^-^^^

DMiir.

319

rnmp. I have put him in rluiins, I C()ni])lain(Hl to
Muni Sonnii to-day abont one of tlio sacks of heads boin^^
short ii' wc'i<j;ht. lie called up Sadi, the mnniapaia, and
iriiulo 'in prodnco the sac a. It was distinctly short,
but Sa.x said he did not know wIkmo th(»y conld have
been talien, nor who carried the sack. Muni Somai ))ro-
niisos aithfi^Uy to have evc^ry man and load at the
Major', first camp from here oy to-morrow. Some of
ihs men have beei fii, .ting with some of 'i'ippn's people
in another village, and one of the latter came in to-day
to complain, with a scratch upon his stomach where he
said he had been shot. No sign of loads. I lianded
over IG rifles (13 good and 3 bad) to Muni Somai to-
day, to convey as far as Nasoro bin Saef's village. He
asked me if I handed them over to him for the use of
liis men, and I said No, only to be taken to the next
village, where, I had no doubt. Major Baittelot wouh!
<i;ive them to his men as he liad promised. I also gave
him 110 matakas, the reward for each rifle recovere :
being ten matakas. (Eleven of them were taken by his
men.) I also gave Suedi, my man, twenty matakas for
the two rifles captured with Kasasi. 1). Y. and the
Manyemas, we will make a fresh start to-morrow. What
a chapter might be written on the starts and delays ever
since we have been in Yambuya Camp ! Muni Somai
told me to-day that the Manyemas were not men, but
simply " meat like beasts," for, said he, " How can they
be men and yet love to eat men as they do 1 If there
were two goats and one man offered them to choose
from for food, they would take the man ; all they think
of now is what a lot of natives they will eat further on."
He added, " The first lot of natives that they fighc, they
will eat as many as they can, and when their stomachs
are full will then catch others to carry their loads."
He told me late last night that the man he had sent
after the Major as guide bolted, leaving his load in the
Major's camp. This morning he had the man in chains.

June 23r6?. — Just as I expected, wars and rumours
of wars about the stacking of the loads. I went on
ahead on purpose to see them properly stacked, and

1888.
June '22.

Wcibari
\ illage.

I!!'

':: Wu I

'■> i
■ 1 '

!■■ ■

■ in

tiiMkI

l.s«s.

June •_';$.

Niilivo
VillaK'".

1
t

:]20

STOJn' OF Till-: /ih'AU COIAJMS.

siiccoedod in ij^c^ttiiiu; four of tlw^ munia))iiiiis to Icuvo
theirs in tlu* c.iini) and stack tliciii. S'li^oinbr's incu
quietly went on, rcfiisiuo; to stoj), aiul ramped, \ bclic-vc,
a loni>" way al lead. Muui Soinai's |)eoj)le took all liis
loads over to his t(Mit across th(^ river. It has been
simply impossible to take a correct tally of thciii.
AN'hen Muiu Soniai came up he made a i^Teat row about it,
but all to no purjiose, for al thou i^-h he promised me tlmr
the loads that had ijjoue ahead shotdd be returned, iIkv
never a])|)(NU'e(l. Tlu^ men travellcMl remarkably well;
we could very easily have gone double the distance.

Ji())(' '2if/i, Sintf/ff//. — Had ratluM- a serious row with
the uiunia])aras to-day, but one which 1 think 1i;in
cleared the atmosphere i^'enerally, more esjx'ciallv as
re<>ards the loads l)ein<if all in one j)lace at niyht. iiuin
came down heavily before daylij»ht, and we did not i^ct
away until about 7 o'clock. Muni Somai had promised
me that all the loads should be st()pj)e(l at the Majoi's
next camp, and asked me especially to be ahead to sih-
that it was all ri<;ht. I was rather astonished to find
that Ngombe's cam]) (the munia])ara who went ahead
last ni»ht) was over two miles ahead of ours, and it
took me all my time to get through his men befori^ we
reached the camp ; but I got in al)out a quarter of an
hour before them. They flatly refused to sto)), and
then there was w'ar until the arrival of Muni Somai,
more than an hour afterwards. I made Ngombe stav
there until he arrived, although his loads had gone
ahead, and I trust now there is a thorough understand-
ing between all of us. I must say for Ngombe that he
had capital shelters made for his loads last night, and
his argument is a good one, viz., that Avhilst the men
are strong, the road good, and all in the shade, with
very little food, our marches ought to be longer. Just
now the men are quite fit to do longer marches, and
none of us know how far we have to go without food,
for we have no guide. I went out to try and shoot a
monkey for my poor dog, who is starving, but could
not get one. I was greatly astonished, on going down

! I

aparas to Icavp

»M»(''I, r })(•]]■(. v(.,
>'<' fook all Ills
It lias l)('(>ii
tally of tlu-iH.
'at row about it,
"iiiiscd nic tliiu
' rcturiKMl, ilicv
inark;il)Iy W(.ll";
i'. (lisfaiicc.

'fioHs row uith
1 I think |„ts
3 cspoc.'iallv as
Lt iiii^ht. i{i,i„
^vc' (lid not yvt
i liad ))roniis((l

at tlic Majoi's
)o alicvid to s(>(>
iiishcd to fill,!
H) went ahead
)f ours, and it
moil hi^i'oro wv
quart(>r of an
_ to stop, and

Muni Somai,
( N^^onibo stny
ids had o-(,ii(.

h understand-
:ombe that he
1st nio-ht, and
lilst the mcMi
e shade, with
longer. Just
marches, and
without food,
and shoot a
^g, but could
I going down

JJlAIiV.

Z2i

thr small river at the bactk of the ramp, to come upon
another road leading to another camp due Iv of this
one, and evidently one of the Miijor's. The road was
iVcshly bla/ed, but, as far as I (;oul(l see, by only one
party. 1 then went ahead on the road we are now
taking, and found it also freshly blazed, but bla/ed by
iiiiiny people at different dates. There is a very old
blazing on it, nearly overgrown, of four reguhu* cuts,
('(|ni(listant, which 1 cannot believe to have been done
hv Arabs, but think it must be Stanley's. At present
wv are a long way to the south of our right course, and
must some day make a lot of way north, to get into it
a^aiii.

I found a very beautiful flowering tree to-dav ; the
flower J could have believed to be that of an orchid,
i)ut 1 shot down a branch and satisfied myself that it
was not ; took it into camp and drew it, I am in great
trouble about the bales of Zanzibar cloth. The matting-
on the outside is all tearing, and no sewing will hold it
tof^other. The road lies through a beautiful open
forest, with every few miles a clear stream, and very
little swamp. This is my second day on nothing but a
cup of boiled rice and roast plantains. 1 am afraid my
plantains will give out to-morrow. A row with these
Arabs is exactly like taking a pot of boiling water off
and on a fire.

Jane 2oth* — To-day is one long story f)f disaster.
AVe started off at daylight [from camp marked -l--f]
along the road well blazed, on which Ngombc had camped,
lie promised yesterday not to let his men start before I
came up, but on my arrival I found they had all gone
on at daybreak, and were well ahead, on what I at once
saw was the wrong road altogether. The road to his
camp [marked + + +] lay too much to the south, and,
beyond his camp, turned due south. I Avent on ahead
at a run, but what was my astonishment, after going
over a mile, to come upon another camp [marked

* Explanatory remarks in brackets inserted by l-lditor. — Ed.

1SH8.
June 24.

On tho
rimn-ii.

■»t- .. ii •-*

I I

11'-

llH

' '^**-. ^ *

* * Ai

* -^41.^

■•••?r.s>

••••^.<;

♦♦♦♦

■♦*♦♦#

+ Camp of Mnjor Bnrttelot to the N. of our camp of lasi uight,
+ + Our ciimp livBt night.
+ + + iVfiOinbe's do.
+ 4- + + His muniapiira'K do.
4- + 4- + + Our present eiin»p.
X J. j. i. J. X Ou\- road yesterday.

— D.K to-day.

nilllllllllllllllllll Major Barttolot's rond.

.— > > — Eoad taken by me to-day to look for right on*

00000000000000000 Road by which we finally left no man's eamp.

Distance +++ to + + -f--)-a little over a mile.

natives. The latter they tried to catch to serve as guides,
but the Tamba-Tambas interfered, and stated that tliey
were Tippu's people, and were coming from the village
where two white men and a nui^iber of Wangwaiiii
had arrived, and that, being afraid of them, they m (>ie

imp of last pight

I) /.my.

823

ictiiniiiif; to Tippii. U|)()n our men's iii(|uiry !is to which
road h'd to tlic vill<i«j;(^ they liad h'ft, they |K)iiit(Ml Inick
to that hy which tlicy liad just conic. 1 now saw tiiat
it' it turned out to bo a ^ood road, it would l)e sliorter
to take it than to ^o ull the way hack to tlie Majoi's
otiicr camp [markcvl -\-l^, which I knew to he on tlu' riijiit
roiul. I took on(> of the men wlio iiad spoken to the
Tiuiil)a- r(iml)as and w(»nt alieiid ; the road hiy X.l').,
uiiich was ri^ht, hut I presently came to n(»thin^ hut a
mere track, which it was ([uite impossilih' tor the
(iuriers to f()llf)w. I then stopped every one, and
waited until Muni Somai came uj). We (h'ci(U>d to
(amp, and h)ok out for tlu^ road. After makiu<j: ( anip
[marked 4' + + 4-4-] I settled to f;*o diu' noitii and strike
cither the Major's road or our own further hack. After
«j(iiii<; throu<;h the most awful hush for ahout an hour,
stnii<>ht as a line, without a path, 1 struck across our
own road, followed it to our cam]) [ marked -|- + ] ^>^
last ni<]fht, went to the next camj) [marked -|- J, followed
the Major's road out of it for a Ion*;' way, saw that it
was undoubtedly the ri<jfht one, and tluMi struck back
across to our own road by a ])ath tliut was blazed, and
wliich we could easily have seen had Ngombes people
not ^onc ahead yesterday.

On my return to camp I told Muni Somai what I had
(lone, and he agreed to go back and camj) on the Majors
road t()-m()rrow^ I discovered afterwards that thirty of
his men had gone out to look for the road, and they
have not yet returned. Now comes the worst ])art of the
story. As I was just starting this morning. Muni Somai
brought me one of the sacks of cloth, and showed me
that it had been opened and some taken out, though not
much. I had it carefu ly tied up, as the sewing things
were all packed away, .aid told him specially to look
after it, and give it to me at our next camp. lie could
f,nve me no explanation about it at all, but that the
cloth had been taken during the night. The Soudanese
were flatly accused of the theft by the Manvemas,
although for no reason. I did not ])retend to suspt^ct
them at all, but when wx^U started stopped them and

.Tiiin> ■_'.'».

On lliu
inuroli.

■ '^^i N

I ,

k.,

1888.
tTune 26.

On tho
march

!■ I b

I ijl

o24

STOJir OF Till-: IIKAR COLUMN.

searched all ti-cir bundles, loads, and persons, also tho
loads of the deserters and natives in their charge, \)\\\
found no trace of the cloth. Wlien Sadi brouglit inc
the sack at this camp, I saw that more had been takcMi
out of it. Upon my return to camp, a few minutes
before this, I found that not more than half of the loads
were stacked together, altliougli I had seen wood cut,
and started them at it before 1 left to hunt for the road.
I now sent for Muni St)mai and asked him why thero
were no people looking after the loads, and why tlioy
were not all there. I could get no satisfactory reply
out of him about anything, and so I told him that since
he would not get in the loads together that I might
check them, and declined to put guards over them,
maintaining, at the same time, that he was lookinsr
after them every day himself, I Avould take no further
responsibility about them until we saw Major Barttelot,
when he would have to answer for every load to him.
I also informed him that his people need no longer
accuse mine of stealing from the loads, for since I gave
Sadi the sack of cloth this morning more had l3een
stolen out of it. He then called Sadi, and tliere was
great war, but no satisfaction. I am more sick of the
whole business to-night than 1 have been since we
started.

June 2iSth. — It began to rain heavily before daylight,
and did not stop until about 11 o'clock. Muni Somai
came to me this morning, and asked me whether I liad
noticed how Sadi had come when called to speak to
him yesterday about the cloth. I told him I did not
understand the question. He said, " Did you not sec
tliat lie had a revoher in his hand and a big knife with
him I " I told him I had noticed it. " These are the
men," said lie, " that I have to deal with ; they are only
meat, like beasts, not men. There are three of us here
from Zanzibar, myself and those two men ' (here he
called up two of the other head men) ; " you must rely
on us." He added that he and these two always
camped together, and that were he to hit Sadi, or

DlAltY.

Xironib'', or anv of tlie otlicr head men, tlicre Avould
be war at once, and this lie wislied to avoid — not that
lie was afraid of th* m, for liis guns and men were
better than theirs, but what would Tippu-Tib say if a
lot of men were shot and our loads left on the road ?
He assured me that the loads were all ri^ht and 'veil
looked alter. At 2 o'clock tlie thirty men leturned,
having found the Major's road and followed it to a
deserted village. They have disco\ ered a path on \> hich
the loads can be taken, so we will go that way, as it is
[\ shorter one to return. 1 had a great day among the
clotli bales and sacks, tying and sewing with caniba as
best I could.

1S88.

Juiu' 'lit.

On the
luarch.

June '27fh. — Reached Nasoro bin Saef's village quite
unexpectedly after a long march of eight hours, cover-
ing abovit twelve miles. Plad my ad>ice been foUcwed,
and our old road been returned to, the men would have
(lone it in much less time ; but Muni Somai warned me
that there would be a mutiny if he tried to nuike the
men go back. "We struck Major Barttelot's road within
twenty yards of where 1 had marked it the day before
yesterday, and spent four hours wading through swamp
and cane-brake. They were rather astonished to find
my marks on the road ahead, as they none of them
believed I had found the right one. Two men actually
(lied to-day beside their loads. It is a nasty thing
suddenly to bump u]) against a man covered with small-
pox, as 1 did several times to-day. The men who died
had not got that disease. It is astonishing to see a nan
(•o\ered from head to foot with the sores of small-pox
carrying a load. On arrival at this village, I was sur-
prised to hear from one of the Zanzibaris, and some
Soudanese who had come over from the Major's camp
about three hours from here, that he had left for Stanley
Falls four days ago, and had missed us on the road.
Two more men and two of his boys have run awav. one
of them with his revolver. I am sorry to have missed
him on tlie road, as I don't sup])()se he can possildy get
back before another ten days at earliest. I will go over

n-:

.J.li

1 ' r "
1 i

320

STORY OF Tilt: li/'JAli COLUMN.

1888.
June L'7.

On tho
inarch.

■ i'

i I

i , 1^

,. 1 1

tf) tlio other camp to-morrow, Avhich lies E. of this, and
see IJonny, and I have advised Muni Somai to camp luro
witli his men, as I licar tlie men from the other camp
have to come here for food. 1 will remain with Muni
Somai until the Major's return, as there is always a
chance of trouble in this camp.

June 2SfJi. — Walked over to Ujele, to the Major's
cam]). Three hours' fast walkini^, distance about ten
miles. The road is on the whole good, save where it
lies through old manioc plantations. Passed two vcrv
large native villages and several smaller ones. Found
Bonny rather seedy. Barttelot left for Singatini on tho
24th inst., with 14 /anzibaris and 3 Soudanese, leaving'
Bonny in charge of camp until my arrival, when I Avas
to take command, and proceed with our wdiole force to
Abdullah Karongo's camp atUnaria*. Bonny says that
five Manyema people from the village Mampuya ciunc
in yesterday, and he succeeded in buying from th(Mii
a man as carrier and guide. This village is a day and a
half from Bonny's present camp, but the men say it can
be done in a day. There are eighteen or twenty loads
now without carriers, and all the rifles and ammunition
have been taken away from the Zanzibaris, in conso-
quence of which the Major has left orders for me to obtain
men from Muni Somai to carry these loads, and act as
escort to the Zanzibaris, their liflcs b'^ing carried as loads.
One case of small-jiox at Bonny's camp. Upon my
return to this cam]), I told Muni Somai that I wislicd
him to proceed to Bonny's cam]) to-morrow, and tliat
the Major had left me in command, with orders to
proceed to Abdullah's camj). Having called togetht>r
and consulted his head men, he told me that tliou<i;h
they were all most anxious to get on to Al)(liilhih"s
cam]), tliey l)egged to be allowed to wait one day longcM'.

* A"xon\\uir to Mr. Bonny's statement, he was loi't in command over
Jameson, under ord(Ms dated April '2'2\\d. The orders referred to liy
Jameson above arc those of June 2IJr(l (vide Loj» of tlic Rear Column.
June 24th, 18SS ; ' Darkest. Africa,' vol. i. p. nOli), eurioiisly not men-
tioned by Mr. IJonny in his ofUcial report to Mr. IStanley; vide ' Darlust
Africa,' vol. i. p. 45)1. — Ed.

I ■!.'

I t

DIARY.

'-' •') T

as so many of the men were weak, and one day's rest
arifl jjjood food would make all the difference to them,
ifliinded over to Bonny : — 2 tins milk, 1 tin cocoa
(condensed), 1 bottle salt, 2 tins tea, 1 bar soap, 1
sack 10 pieces of cloth, 9o cartridges in 2 belts. All
recovered from deserters' loads.) Knowing the weak
state of the men, as illustrated by the two who died on
the road yesterday, I granted the extra day. lie can-
not possibly give me the twenty men in order to move
r.U the loads from Benny's camp at once, so I propose to
move on all the Zanzibaris and a number of his men
always two days ahead, enough men returning each
time to carry on the extra loads. In this way an extra
chance is secured to our men of getting the pick of the
food on the road, wherever it is scarce. Abdullah's
ramp is said to be six days' march from Ujele, with
only one break of two days without food on the road.

Muni Somai reports one load of ammunition lost yester-
day. The Major has proceeded to Stanley Falls for the
purpose of obtaining more men from Tippu-Tib *, as well
as to try to recover some of the lost loads and rifles ;
he expected to be absent twenty-six days. The majority
of the huts in these villages are of the extinguisher
type, but the beehive-shape appears too, as do the pent-
house and round huts found below Yambuya. Some of
tiiem are beautifully constructed, with hard floors of
baked clay, and are kept exceptionally clean. I had a
narrow escape of being bitten by a snake to-day. I was
walking along fast, bare-legged, and I stepped right
over one which was crossing the path.

Jnne 2'jth. — Began the day by a regular inspection
of every load carried by the people supplied by Tippu-
Tib. Took tlie names of all tlie muniaparas, and made a
list of the loads carried by each. In consequence of the
discovery that of the thirteen sacks carried by tlie muni-
apara Sadi, containing beads, cowries, and rice, several
were short of weight, I handed th(>m over to Muni
Somai, taking from him in tlieir place thirteen loads

June 28.

On tho
march.

* fcjcc Apiiciulix Vlil.

' s

llli?ll '

■l

■ I:

1 1 ■

) I . I I

,1. ! .

1SR8.
June 1>0.

On the
murcli.

P.28

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

of ammnnitioii, principally Winchostor. "Wroto out a
full ro])()rt of inspection for tho ^Fajor. Completed
nia]) of' road to this villa<ije : then came tronhle. I
asked Muni Somai if he was ready to start for the other
camp to-morrow morninsif. He told me that all the
head men had been to s'^eak with him, and told him
tliat their men were still weak. I replied that at
the next camp all the weak men could have a rest.
He declared liimself and Kapranc^a ready and willinn-
to £>•(), but that the others now said they had put manioc
into the water, and wanted another day for it to soak.
I said T would take no excuse about food, as thev had
alr(>a(ly l)een luM-e two days, and were cooing to a caini*
where they would find plenty of food, and that 1 could
not leave l)onny's cam]) another day without a sufficient
armed force, as all the rifles had been taken away from
the Zanzibaris. He announced his intention of callino-
tofj^ether all his head men, after prayers, to consult witli
them. 'The result was a message to say they were still
nnwillin<^' to j^'o. I then went up to see him, and i^ave
him my ])()sitive ordcM-s that he and all his head men
should proceed to-morrow mornini»' to Bonny's cami)
with all the loads. I told him I should go, whatever
hapi^ened, and that whoever did not do so would he
positively disobeyini>' orders, and that a direct report of
the same would be made to 'i'i])])u-'rib. I believe lie
and Ka])ranga will be the only men who will obey, and
in this case I will try and i>-et a letter conveyed to the
Major. I fold Muni Somai that were I to allow them
to remain loni»'er here I should be disobeyin*;' IJartteiots
direct orders to me, and that if this sort of thini^' took
place at every pleasant village they came to, the Expe-
dition might as well be at an end. This row was bound
to take place sooner or later ; I am only sorry it has
occurred durinu- Barftelot's absence.

Ttind •JO//'. — Strucdv my tent at daylight. Muni Somai
told ni:' his head men still refuse to come on, and will
nof, siivi !7ntii the day after to-morrow, when their
main >! will i.e dried. I said my orders remained the

lAV.

DIARY.

329

M roto f„it a

no troiihJo, I
'•t for tli(> ot))(.j.
^ that all the
nnd told him
^pJio'l that at
' J lave a i(.sf.
(ly and wilhUo"
y^ put manioc
^<>i' it to soak.
<1, as th(-v had
in,i? to a rHni],
tl that I f„ul,l
^ut a siiffif;i(>,)t
von away from
tioii of (•a]hIl^■
f> c'oiisiilt with
they were still
'lini, and yavc
'lis lit'ad men
lionny's cami.
J^o, whatever
so woidd he
ii-c'ct report ni
I believe Ju.-
vill obey, and
iveyed to the
» allow them
ii(^' l>artt('lofs
)t' thinn- t(;ok
"^ the E\})e.
vv was bound
Sony it has

Muni Somai
on, and will
^vhen their
niaim>d the

same. He said he and Kapran^a would follow me.
On my arrival at U'jele, tof)k over command from Honny.
Kound evcrythiYij^ (juiet ; no more desertions. One
/anzibari had died yesterday. Muni Somai, Kapranga,
and Sadi arrived some time afterwards with their men
and loads, ab(mt loO in all. I told Muni Somai, almost
inimediately after his arrival, that Mr. Honny would
start for Mampuya to-morrow mornin<i^,leavinf; the twenty
loads, for which men would retin-n here, where 1 should
remain with him (Muni Somai), and that 1 required an
escort of his men, as I had before told him, to i;o with
IJonny to Mam]niya, and return from thence with the
men for the loads. He tlnni infonned me that eveiy
man they had brou<»ht had returned to Nasoro bin Saet's
villa<4e for food, but that he would tell me later on if
he could f>-et them. In the evenini>- he said the men
would not leturn until to-morroAV, at what time lie did
not know. I asked him when he would ever be
able to ()l)ey my orders, to wdiich he replied that the
\\ ncusu and Manyemas were very hard to deal with, and
would not leave the village until it ])leased them. I
informed him that the sooner 'ri})])u-Tib knew that his
men would not obey him the better, and that as he will
nut send the men with Bonny, I would accompany him
myself, and return with tlie men for the loads left behind,
leaving him (Muni Somai) in charge of the said loads.
J cannot myself leave for Stanley Falls, nor can I send
any of our men, but I shall trv to i>et a leiter coineved
to Barttelot from Mampuya, and in any case I will try
to get the whole force on as far as Abdullah Karongo's.
1 can now see that Muni Somai is utterly useless as a
commander, although himself willing.

July laf, Suvdajj. — Got away a[)out 7 o'clock, and
marched until 11 o'clock. Koad lay nearly due N. all
\\\v. way, and a \ery bad one, thiough old plantations
full of fallen timber. Passed over three rivers. Latter
part of road lav through a loni"' strin«>' of villages, all
lying close togethei', and due X. and S. The country
must hav(! been veiy thickly inhabited, although now

.liiin' Ml(.
Uji-le.

r i' i

i'. V

1^ p

iili ,

STORY OP THE HEAR COLUMN.

1888.
.luly 1.

On the
march.

h^ i

III'

,,l

1'.

many of the villapjos arc deserted, and in several riises
l)urnt by the Tamba-l'ambas. The majority of the Imts
are still of the extinguisher type. Men marched well
and willingly. No deserters. In the evening throo of
Harttclot's slaves escaped from the Soudanese soldiors
in charge of them. Search party sent out under Omaha
had not returned at dark.

Julii 2nd. — Started at 7 o'clock, and marched until
12 A.M., reaching a village called Mquangandy, belong-
ing to the Waburu tribe. This part of the country is
inhabited by three tribes — the Waburu, Wamanga, and
Wabunga. The road for the first mile lay tlirou<^li
six villages, which, witli the four passed yesterday,
make ten all close together, lying due N. and S. After
these the road became very bad, running through swampy
forest and old plantations. The most important of tho
villages is called Mpunga, and further on, about a mile
from this, we passed through a very pretty group of
villages called Lixari. Each village is situated on the
summit of a small hill, and consists of about six or
seven huts, all dotted about in the clearings close
together. Met Tamba-Tambas belonging to Tippu-
Tib, who say that the Aruwimi is three hours' distant
to the N.W, Unaria, Abdullah Karongo's camp, is
distant only one day's march without loads, but three
Avith them. Stanley's blazing on his road beyond
Unaria is still quite visible. They have promised to
convey a letter to Stanley Falls, the Congo being only
four days distant. They strike it at Atiacusu. The
search party failed to find the three women who escape!
yesterday. We marched a little over eight miles to-day.
I saw a conical hut, raised five feet off the ground, witli
a hulder attached to it, at Mpunga, also telegraph from
road to village to tell of any one's approach at night.

Jnlf/ ord. — Sat up last night, writing to Tir)pu-Tib and
the Major. One of Ti])pu's people has promised to call
for my letters this morning, and take them to Singatini as
quickly as possible. Started at 7a.m. for Ujcle, with seven
/anzibavis, thirteen slaves, and guard of one sergeant and

1 l.i ,1

several rase,,

•ityofthoiiuts

marched \V(.II

ening thn-o of

lanese soldiors

under Omaha

inarched until
?andy, beloni..
the country is
Wimanga, ind
^ lay tlir()uc.li
ed yesterday,
and S. After
•ough swampv
ortant of tho
about a mile

3tty nrroup of

;uated on tlio
about six or
earings close
g to Tippu-
loiirs' distant
o's camp, is
^s, but three
road beyond
promised to
) being only
acusu. Tlie
wlio escape.!
miles to-day.
^I'onnd, with
3graph from
at night.

>pu-Tib and
lised to call
Singatinias
, with seven
:rgeant and

DIARY.

five Soudanese, to bring up tlie extra loads. Tleaclicd

our first camp from Ujc'le about 10 a.m., and got in there

about 1 P.M. Muni Somai greeted me with the fact

that letters had come for liim and for myself, stating

that the ^vhole force was to return to Singatini. This

rather took my breath away, and it was with anxious

hands that I opened the two letters which .Muni llamcse

had brought to me from Major Barttelot. The first one

1 opened contained orders to proceed with the whole

force with all possible despatch to Unaria, where I>art-

telot would join us about tlie 14th of July. I hast(Mi(»d

to (ipen the other (me, but it only contained the same

orders, and upon asking Muni Somai whence he liad

received the other orders, he told me he had had a

letter from Sala Sala by the same messenger, stating

that Major Barttelot had arrived at his village, and had

written to me to say that the whole forcci was to return

to Singatini. I then told Muni Somai that the orders

remained the same, and he promised that all his men

should leave for my camp on the following day. Fe

says there are many cases of small-pox, and other sick

iiess (about sixty in all), and that seven of his men have

run away. Sala Sala told him that a large new steamer

liad arrived at Yambuya Camp after the departure of

Selim Mahommed and everyone else, and had planted

a flag there. Major Barttelot's boy Sadi, with his

revolv(^r, came to his camp at Wobari, and gave himself

up, the others having run away from him. The Major's

letters were dated June 25th.

Jnhj 4:fh. — ^Told Muni Somai that my last orders to
him were to get the whole force together, and push on
to my camp with all possible despatch. It began to
rain before leaving, and came down in torrents when
we had gone a short distance. I pushed on, however,
and we reached M])unga at 12 a.m., when it cleared up.
The natives carried the double loads remarkably well.

J'uh/ ot/i. — Paid for my wetting yesterday with a
fearful dosc^ of rheurnatism in my back ; had not a Avink
of sleep, but starred and walktnl ic oft". Reached

1888.

July 3.

Ujilo.

':*

'.> >.> o

STORY OF TIIE RKAR COLUMN.

18S8.

July r«,

Mijnaii-
guiidy.

Mcinano'iindy about 12 A.M. ; the swain])s arc in a fcirt'ul
state aftor the rain. lioiiny reports all ([uiet duriu^' mv
absonco. Another /aiizibari dead. Uoiiny liad not
been able to buy any (tarriers, as they only brou;^dit in
two small boys, tbi- whom they wanted a gun, and two
girls, for a gun eaeh.

Jul II i\fh. — Started Bonny off to the next viljairc,
with all the loads li(> eould possibly carry, with orders
to send back encMigh men under Soudanese escort ti)
bi g up tin; extra loads with myself to-morrow. Xq
siu.is of Muni Somai !

JkIij 1th. — Started soon after daylight and reaclii'il
Li])ula, where IJonny is (Micam])ed, about 1 1 a.m.
Jt is not more than five miles, but the road is vcn
bad. Found one of the Zanzibaris had fallen l)(>liiu(l
yesterday, and opened our chop box, smashing it witli
a heavy stick. He was caught red-handed by Faniiji.
who was sent back for him. One tin of milk and (jir'
of corned beef wen^ missing, three other tins beiii<;
opened. AVe gave him 100 lashes and put him in
chains. Dr. I'arke's box fell yesterday, and was
smashed beyond all re])air. Made a list of the cuii-
tents, and discarded a lot of llil-borc bullets, cartrid-^c
cases, &c, as we are very short of carriers, packing'
what remained in Nels(jn's and Stairs' bags. Slioitly
after my ai'rival, I heflrd that Muni Somai had conic up
to the camp. I left this morning, so 1 sent back Muni
TIamesc and two Soudanese soldiers to tell him to come
on liei'e to-UKjrrow. Am sending on Bonny and all his
men to Unaria to-mono w, which is four easv marclies
from here, with food to be had all the way. I sluill
wait here till lu^ sends back men for the extra loads.
There is a great deal of small-pox anunigst Muni Somai's
men, and I >vish to avoid the chance of its breakinu'
out amongst oujs as fai' as possible.

Juh/ ^th, Siiiuh(i). — Ijonny left for Unaria. Muni
Somai and his men arrived about two hours later. 'I'hero

DTAUr.

.•I

was n ijjrnnd row horo sliortly nftor tlioir arrivjil. ]\Iuni
Soniai was sitting (Iriiikiiig coffer with me in i1h> shade
at tlie l)ack of my tent, and scneral of tlie head men
wore standin<if ronnd. Muni Somai was tellin*; me tliat
a <T()()d many of the ]K'0|)le liad h)st tlie road to-day. and
I lukcd liim liow that was when it was so well blazed.
One of the head mcMi called Kimjinta exclaimed, '* Oh,
if people will walk with their noses on the f^round. and
not look at the trees, they must p^et lost." Ni^n)ml)e,
another head man, most of whose men were those that
wore lost, took this as a personal insult, and said some-
\\\w^ rather nasty, for Kimputa retorted, " You sit still
for months at Kassongo, eatinjj: manioc and gettin<ij
fat. whilst I am on the road ! No wonder you know
iiotliing about it!" Then words rose very hip^h. their
followers rushed up with guns, and a grand scene
oiisued. Men with guns, trying to cock them, were
rolled over by men Avithout guns, while others with logs
of wood and huge ])oles sailed in too. 'I'here were
broken heads and scars innumerable, and at one time it
looked serious, and I had thoughts of finding some-
thing myself, not a stick ; but 1 sat still, and it gradu-
ally developed into a strife of words, and more allies
interfered to separate the aggrieved parties. Muni
Somai reports a good many deaths from small-pox.

J((hj [)fh. — A day. of disaster. Last night, just as I
had turned in, nearly every man in camp began to fire
off his gun, as if at a given signal. Several of the shots
wore fired at the very side of my tent. I jumped out
of bed, got my Winchester, sent for Muni Somai, and
told him, before all the men, that I would shoot the
very first man who fired another shot near my tent,
lie said, *■' Beat them with a stick ; " but I said, " No,
you can do that. I will shoot. Let a man fiie, and
you will see." There was perfect ])(>ace for the rest of
the night. I told Muni Somai that, had T men enough
to carry them, I would take all the rifles, and that I
should strongly advise the Major to take them from his

.Tilly H.
Lipiilii,

.srouy OF Till': uijau column.

I|i

! i

i'^

18^8.
l.ijjiila.

•jli fi

1 :m 1

men, imd i^ivc tlicin to (lie uhmi lio f»;<)t fi-om 'rippi,.

'lib. Not }i sliot liiis bcoii lirod in tliis ciinij) l(i-iii.r|,f

About 12. '■')() A.M. sonic of IJonny's men cunie into ciuwu

lo ^-ot plantains, and told nu; that he had lost the ihkuI

and was (;ainj)od not far from hero. I waited miti!

3 o'clock, but «>()t no messaLfe or note from liiui, so |

sent a man v.ith a lettei' tellin<;- him to remain where he

was until he h(>ard a*»'ain from me, and in the meantiiiic

I would try to procure a ^iiide. I started off aiul

walked to Mamj^uya, but found that all the natives and

'ril)pu-'rib's ))eople had run away, and I don't wondfu-

at it, after the fusillade of last ni<^ht. Ueturiied \,>

cam]), and as there was still no note from lionnv, I

started off to his (;am]). Ilalf-wjiy there, met my

ni(>ssenger returning with a note from him. A\Vnt on

to him. He says that yesterday the guides, two of

Tippu-Tib's people, took him all wrong, and then

ran away. He then went too much to tluMiorth, and

sighted the Aruwimi. Went out with him along the

road h(^ lia'^ blazed this morning, and found a path

which li(^ had missed, going to the eastward and well

l)lazed. Returned to his camp, had a cup of tea, and

told him not to start until I arrived in the m()ruiii<>.

Came back here, and got in at dark, thoroughly beat.

Told Muni Somai that I would go with Bonny in the

morning, taking only one carrier with me, and l(>avinn'

my boys, two Zanzibaris, and two Soudanese here, and

that he must remain until my return. All loads loir

behind will be placed in his tent. Bonny reports one

of the goats lost, which is very serious, for we cannot

get meat of any kind.

Muni Somai told me to-night that he owns a village
north of Riba-lliba, on the other side of the Congt).
It takes two months, going north, to get to it. The
country is open, as at Kassongo, but there are large
mountains there. Tour rivers, he says, arise from one
of tliem : two called Ijinde, one fjela, and I could not
catch the name of the fourth. He says no white man
has been in that country.

DTAIiV.

9 '.' ".
.J.J -J

owns a villiiiio

Jnhf 10///. — .Joined i'onny. W(Mit on a road wliicli
1 iilUMwards found to \)v tlio one ho liad followed tiic
(liiv botore. General direction S.K. Mnni llamehiand
;i lot of men turned up from Unaria. He told nie he
|i;i(l brouf^ht th(» caps from 'rij)pu-'I'ib to Unaria, and
lis \v(! were so lon<r in arrivini^ lu^ had come to meet us.
lie handed over to me the three deserters from Mr.
Stanley, who have been so Vn\\r at Unaria, and they all
swciir tliat they did not desert, but were left sick on the
load, and that Mr. Stanley's books will show this to be
the case. I made them "jjuide us on to the ri<;ht road.
Tliev took us straii'-ht alonji: the road IJonny had taken
the day befoi'e yesterday, and he camped to-day in the
v(>ry villau^e, close to the Aruwimi, where he cam])ed
the dav before yesterday, and from which point he had
turned straight back. I placed the three men be-
joii^nng to Stanley in the char^'c of the Soudanese, and
k'ft Abdullali Karonpfo's brother-in-law with Bonny, so
he has enough guides now. lie told me of a much
sliorter way back to camp which he liad blazed, and
sent Faragi to show it to me. It turned out to be
twice as lony; as the wav we had come.

\\'hen I returned here, Muni Ilamcla (who I find is
really the head man at Unaria, and not Abdullah
Kaiongo) handed over to me 40,000 Enfield caps, from
Tipiju-Tib, for which Ave owe him £48. I gave him a
receipt for the caps, and another for the three men.
Although I told Muni Somai that there could now be
no difhculty about the road, and that he must therefore
send on all his pecjple to Unaria, he now tells me
that he cannot tell till to-morrow when he will be able
to start them. He is simply utterly useless. Muni
Ihunela ga\e me a letter from Mr. Greshoff, of the
Dutch house, who had arrived at Singatini, saying he
luid not received the boxes I had sent him.

ifisa

July n>

On I lie
iniri'li.

July Wth. — It rained heavily, a miserable day.
Muni Somai busy writing to Tippu-Tib. I warned
him, upon his stating that his men could not start

iiakilil iikiit») - )l

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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1.0

I.I

|5o ^^™ MI^H

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i

^ tSS, 12.0

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^ J> '>

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WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

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ill'?

1 1 1 ^ ,

ill;

11'
'I'

! ,;

. I

Ji ii

I !

1888.
July 11.

On the
march.

*.' *-» (\

UTORV OF Till': RKAli COLUMN.

until the clay after to-morrow, that ho must not think
he would have to wait lon<); at Unaria, for he had
wasted all the time on the road, and Major Harttelot
would certainly expect us to be ready to start when he
arrived.

Juhf Vlfh. — Told Muni Somai he must be ready to
start for Unaria to-morrow. lie made another excuse,
saying they did not like to leave the wliite man behind.
I said that was mv business, not his. He asked me to
\f\\v out some caps to the men, as they wished to catch
natives at Unaria. I told him I could not possibly do
so unless the Major ordered it.

Juljl loth. — Muni Somai, with all his people and
loads, started for Ihiaria. Tie has left a jifood many
sick, who are going on slowly. Some in this villa<>;e
wlio have small-pox will, I am afraid, die, they are sucli
bad cases. I am in hopes that Barttelot will turn up
with enough men to carry the extra loads, before the
return of the men from Unaria. The stench round this
camp is something frightful, and I have not enough
men to remove the loads to another village.

July lifh. — Sent two men to Mampuya to bring
in Tippu-Tib's people. They arrived in about an
hour and a half. They have heard nothing of Major
15arttelot. Rained heavily.

Juli/ Ibth, Sunday. — Another wretched day of waiting
at this camp. No signs of either Barttelot or the men
from Unaria. The smell after the rain, with a hot sun.
is something horrible.

July \Qtth. — Tippu-Tib's men from Mampuya came
into camp to-day, bringing with them a quantity of
plantains, a pleasant addition to plain boiled rice and
mouldy biscuit. They had with them some natives
of the Babura tribe, one of whom I sketched. Ilis face
is very typical of the natives in these parts. I gave a

hlAliV.

H H "•

00/

lot of plantains to the sick. 'V\\g natives are qnite
friendly to the wliite man, but had any of Muni
Soiiuii's peo])le been here tliey would not have come
near the camj). The huts of the 15al}ura tiil)e are
cvlinder-sliaped, with a domed roof; this villa<^e con-
sists entirely of their huts.

JiiJtj llf/f. — One of the messengers wlio took my
letter to Tippu-Tib came here, and told me that 'ri|)pu-
Tib liad given Major liarttelot four chains to put on
any of the head men wlio i-efused to obey him. Pie says
the Major luis gone by a short route to Unaria and
oiiiiht to be tliere bv to-dav, that he had no fresh num
with him, but liad recovered several deserters. The
men from Unaria luive not yet arrived, and are now two
diiys overdue.

JkJ>/ 18M. — Tliank God, the men arrived this after-
noon. Told them to get as much food as tliey could.
Keceived a letter from IJonnv. He states that he
arrived at Unaria on the 15th, liaving taken five days
fiom his camp on. the river (beyond tins) t(/ get tliere.
Ho says that there are three days without food in the
forest, and reports two desertions.

Jiili/ VMh. — Started at 7 o'clock, and marched to
Ronny's first camp, near the banks of the Aruwinii
River, where I stopped to let the men gather manioc.
One of my men brought in two beautiful longicorn
beetles, which I drew and coloured. Muni Somai's
men have burnt nearly every village, which is a great
shame, as the natives kave done nothing to them.

1888.
July 10.

On the
luarcli.

■*?;■

t ■'

i ^'k

!■ -I,

Ju/f/ 20th. — Our road lay right along the bank beside
the river, and through a long line of deserted villages,
all burnt a long time ago. The natives have all crossed
to the other side of the river and built there. ()])p()site
the camp is a long series of rapids. Our road now is
the one taken by Mr. Stanley a year ago, and the
blazing on the trees is still quite distinct.

ikiui* MUf-f

'Jl';

: ,1 ■ ■ ■ -I

iJilM

ifji

t
I

i I

t!|

III!

1^1

IRSft.
July '21.

Oil tlie
umrc'h.

338

.S7'07fr OF T/f/'J UKAR COLi'MN.

Jidfi 'l\sf. — Poor Major IJarrtclot was sliot (It^id l)\ I
one of tho Maiiycmas early on the inoriiinj:^ of tlic I'.itji
instant. Sucli is tlio news 1 liavo nM'civcd from lioimv
to-day. It was a caso of dolilxMato mnrdrr, as far as I
can jnd<j^o from tlio scant knowlrdfi^e his mcsscniicrs
have of any details. Honny's note is shorter than a
tclefjjram on<^ht to have heen, merely stating the fact tluit
he was shot, and that all the Manyemas, Mnni Soniai, and
Abdullah Kar(ni«ijo have left, also that he has written to
Ti|)])n-Tih. As far as I (tan learn from the messen<j:(>r,
eaily on the mornin«j; of the 10th, before daylight, some
of the jNlanyemas were makinuj a ujreat noise, beatin*;- on
their drums. Major Harttelot sent his boy Sudi to tell
them to be quiet, as he could not sleep. They still
kept cm beatin«2; the drums, and fired a couple of shots.
lie then Avent down to stop this himself, and all that the
men know is that he was shot stone dead, through the
breast, the bullet ])assing out and grazing another man's
face. It is a fearfully sad piece of news to me, for ever
since we were M't alone together at Yambuya Cani]i,
more than a year ago, there has heen the closest friend-
ship between us, never so much as a single cpiarrcd.
In all difficulties we went to one another for advice,
and many a hapjn' jncture did we draw of times at
home together after all this unlucky Expedition was
over. He was a straightforward, honest English
gentleman ; his only fault, being a little too quick-
tempered. He loved ]ilain, straightforward dealing fin-
too much ever to get on well with the Arabs. He
hated their crafty, roundabout way of doing everything,
and showed it to them, and, of course, was disliked in
turn. He was far too good a man to lose his life in a
miserable way like this, and God knows what I shall
do without him.

I am going right through to TTnaria to-morrow, leaving
the loads to come on in charge of Muni Hamese (?).
our head muniapara, and Sergeant Paquit, with eight of
the Soudanese. Our whole march to-day was done in
pouring rain, and it is raining still, 8 p.m.

i i

I)/ A in'.

339

Jul// 22nd, Stiniluj/. — ( iot away an lioiir aftcM* daybroak,
and ivaclunl Unaria an liour lu'l'oic siins(«t, ovor twenty
miles of tlie very worst road I have ever seen in any
country. Fonr of tlie natives ran away dnrin*; a heavy
storm last ni^lit. On n»y arrival I fonnd all qniet, only
Honny and tlie /anzil)aris with tin* Sojidanese ocenpying
the villa<;e, and two or three of the head muniaparas
of the Manyenias, with their men, camped ontside tlie
vill:ijj;o. Bonny had done* all that a man eould do nnder
very trying circnmstanees. 1 le had nu-overed ahont three
hundred of the loads carried by the Manyemas, and had
succeeded in (iiiieting those of them who remained. It
apiH^nrs that just at daybreak, on tlu^ morning of the 1 Uth,
one of thff Manyemas camped in the village close to this
house began to beat his drum and sing, which is their
constant practice, although an unpleasant one. Harttelot
had l)eeii annoyed by the same noise early in the night,
hctween 9 and 10 o'clock, and had sent his boy Sudi to
them, when they liad ceased. lie sent his boy again
in the morning, when loud murmurs were heard,
and two guns w ere fired off in the air. I le then jumped
out of bed, taking his revolver, and went out of the
house, although Bonny tried to persuade him not to do
so. Immediately afterwards a shot was fired, and shouts
were heard that the Major was killed. A fearful scene
t' panic then followed. Bonny went out and could
not find a Zanzibar! ; called for Muni Somai, who did
not appear ; ordered the Soudanese to follow him, but
tliev stood to arms, and refused to follow. Then
bonny went towards the spot where the shot had been
fired, Ghana, the Somali, and Omaha, the Soudanese
officer, following him. He proceeded until he came to
the body of Major Barttelot, which was lying face
upwards, Avith one hand under the body holding his
revolver, which had not been discharged. He must
liave been shot dead on the spot, the bullet passing in
under the centre of the breast-bone, and out through
his back behind the heart, having travelled slightly
upwards ; not a muscle of the face had moved. Bonny
thinks that he was shot from a narrow passage between

1888.
July 22.

Unaria.

■HI

1 1'

1888.
July 22.

Unariu.

1 i^

540

STOJn' OF TJ//-: JUJAJi COLUMN-

two houses, but all tlio men report that ho wns shot
from a cl(H)r, and went a f(»w stops before* fallill^^ Tho
body was then conveyed back to the house. Thesliouts
and cries through the villap^e were fri«i;htfid, so nnuli so
that Uonny thought a general massncre was tiikincr
place, but it was really a stain])ede. He did all he
could to (juiet them, but they all left the village. 'Jhe
Major was buried in a quiet spot in the forest, close to
the village, the same day, and Bonny spent the rest of
it in recovering loads.

Julj^ 'I'^rih — Made an inventor)' of all the efFer ts of
poor ^lajor Harttelot, and packed all those things we
considered necessary to send home, a full account of
the disposal of everything being sent to Sir AViilf(>r
Barttelot. JIad an interview with three of the licnd
Manycmas who came into camp, and impressed upon
them the necessitv for iny seeiny; them all before leaviii<r
for Stanley Falls to see 'rii)])u-'rib. 'i'liey said tli(>
others were afraid to come in. I then offered to go out
alone, without arms, and meet them anywhere tliov
chose to name. Finally Sadi, one of the head iiuMi,
said he would go out and see them and bring nie their
answer, and in case they would not see me, would briiiij;
information respecting loads and number of men. I
then offered a reward for the arrest of Sanga, the man
who shot Major Harttelot. Any steps taken by us
against them now towards the finding of this iimii
would end in the loss of all the louls, and a general
massacre of us all, for were the Zanzibaris given their
guns, they would either desert with them, or have them
taken by the Manyemas, and we have only a mere
handful of Soudanese to do guard, and upon whom we
can depend to use tlieir guns in case of a fight. All
loads and men whom I left arrived all right.

July 2ith. — A very busy day. Began by examining
and making a list of all the loads recovered from the
Manyemas. After this, we instituted a search amongst
the Soudanese, in consecpience of one of the bales of
cloth in their charge having been tampered with, and

i 'h

DIAIiV.

341

and a <»oiU'ral
iris <rivoii tlunr
1, or liave tlicm

found a quantity of clotli, although none of it was taken
from tlicsc bales. Had just completed this, wlien Sadi
arrived with a number of the liead Manyemas. I told
them that I was going to Stanley Falls to see Tii)pu-
Tib, and try to come to some arrangement witli him, so
that all matters miglit be settled and tlie Expedition
proceed. I tlien got a list from each man, concerning
tlio loads ho had returned, how many were lost, ike.
They told me that Muni Somai, six head men, and Sanga,
the nuin who sliot Barttelot, were all at Stanley Falls.
I find there are 1U3 Manyoma earners still camped in
tlie vicinity. We have recovered 298i loads, and 47^
arc missing. I then arranged all the papers connected
with the Expedition found amongst the Major's effects.
Tliere are missing a packet of letters to the officers who
went witli Mr. Stanley, and a large sealed letter for
Mr. Stanley, wliicli I handed to liarttelot at Yambuya
Cainp, and for wliich I have a receipt. These are
believed to have been lost in a bag of his which one of
his men ran away with, on his return here from Stanley
Falls. Had all the defects in the sacking of the loads
repaired. There is a sadness hanging over everything,
wliich no amount of work will shake off.

Ju!u "Ikitli. — Did not get away until o'clock, but
marched until 5 o'clock, when we camped in the forest.
Tlie men had to stop for lialf an hour to collect manioc,
as we shall have two davs in the forest without food.
The road is a very bad one. Had to wade six streams
in the first hour, most of them up to my arm-pits. One
box and my rifle and cartridges were dropped in one of
the streams, so we made a bad start. I found Ngombe
and nearly all the head Minyemas camped in the forest,
about two hours from Unaria, close to the edge of the
manioc plantations. I stopped and si)oke to them,
es[)ecially to those who did not come in yesterday. I
can now only find 188 men camped near Unaria. The
camp had a strong zariba round it, with places cut in it
for the use of guns. The men were very civil, giving
me all the information they could ; they all say that

1888.
July 2-1.

Unaria.

!■ '

I ■ I

■fi

If .

.1-

Wjl.

M! i

342

sToitr or THh: UKMt column.

/T'sf. ^'*"ff'' ^^ ^^ Stanley Falls. They told mo tlioy would

Oii^tii. * *^'* whatever I asked tliem to. I am j>;lad to ^et on tin-

nmrHi (o mavcli ajjjain, for one has not so nineh time to think. I

^Fuit 1''^^'^' '>'>^ sle))t more than six hours altogether in the

last three nights.

JitJi/ 20///.— Started at 0.80 a.m., camped at 4.:)() i>.m.
The road lay through forest and swam]», with caiu'-
brakes and (;re(»])ers in ahundauce, of the very worst
des('ri|)ti(m. Jt appears that a day l)ey(Uid this, on tlu;
road to Stanley Falls, Muni Somai nu^t Masoro Miisudi
and Ali i)in Saidi, on their way to Unaria with 200 i,miiis,
to shoot natives, as they ex|)ress it. Nasoro Masiidi
asked him what husiness he had there, when he knew
his place was at Unaria, and told him to return at once.
I found him camped at this place with Kapranga. on
his way back to Unaria. He began a long ex])lan;ition
to me of his reasons for going back to Stanley halls,
saying that the morning the Major was shot the
Manyemas wanted to shoot him. I told him that ho and
Ka])ranga had deliberately run away ; that had he gone
straight to Air. IJonny he would have been perfectly sate;
and that there were forty-seven loads lost, for which he
would have to answer to 'rip[)U-'rib. He told me that
he had twice sent out men to shoot Sanga, but that he
had g(me to Tippu-Tib at Singatini. I told him to send
all his men with Kapranga to Unaria, to camp near Mr.
Bonny (but not into the village), and to come himself
straight to 'i'i])pu-Tib with me. He gave me two letters
addressed to Major Harttelot, one from Tippu-Tib, tlie
other from Mons. Hacrt. Tippu-Tib's letter was to advise
him to be Aery careful with the Manyemas, as some of
them had died on tlie road; and always to stop some time
where there Avas food, as there were many places on the
road with no food to be got for three or four days.
Mons. Baert's letter was merely sending his compliments
to all of us, and telling us that Tippu-Tib assured liiin
evervthinj? w^ould be all right. These letters were brouulit
to Nasoro Masudi only a day beyond this, and it a])])eais
Mr. Bonny's letter was taken on by the same messenger

MN,

1)1 Ml y

34a

no tlipy w„„l,i
<1 to P't oil th,.
Tie to think. I
•>?,'etlicr in the

(^'1 ju 4.:;i) |..m.
»»!», with caiK'.
he V(>rv ^\()l•st
I'l tliis, on th,.
Niisoro Miisiidi
with 200 i^r,,,,^^
S'usoro Masiidi
Nvhon li{« kii(.\v
ivtiirn at once.
Kai)riin<rii. on
Hf.!: (*xj)lanjiti()n
Stanley Falls,
was shot file
im that he and
It liad ho irone
porf'octly .saf(>;
", tor whicli he
' told uio that
n, l)ut tliat lio
Id him to send
;ainp iioar Mr.
come liiniscif
mo two h-rtcrs
'ippu-Tib, tlio
' was to advise
IS, as some of
top some time
places on the
or four (hiys.
compliments
assured him
were bronnht
nd it a])p('ars
10 messenyer

tlieiv was lUMthei

aiK

1 I

was iroiiiuj wliere there was

lilcnty. His cookiii^j^ is just as «jjood in the l»iisli as at
Stanh'y Falls. He wrote a letter for me to Tippu-
Til), telling liini 1 am cominii* to Stanley Falls as fast as
|M)ssil)le, where all my business can be better settled
than if he w(M<' to nuH't me on the road. This letter
ojoes by sjK'cial messeiiijer, and ()Ui>ht to ii^ach Sini^atini
at least a whole day Ix'fore me, Nasoro Masudi and
Co. are i;<)ini»; on beyond rnaria on Mr. Stanley's road,
for nine or ten days, when thev intend to make a stronjj:
homa, and H<jiht tho natives there, settliiii*; up th<» vil-
laiii's as they have done here, and leaving a few men in
each. 'rii(> natives periodically rise and oat tlies(^ men,
hnl fresh ones take their i)lace. Their force here is a
verv stronji" one of 200 i>uns ; thev loft Stanlev Flails on
this bi<>; slave and ivory hunt, after tho liel<Tjians had
taken up their residence there. Nasoro Masudi tell'?
me that Tip])u-Tib's })eople at Mampnya had told him
that many of the ^ranydmas said they would shoot me,
hnt they did not expect me to got into Umiriaas quickly

1 did.

Julfl 2Sth. — Started at O.oO, and camped in tho forest
at o.oO, having done a good twenty miles on the road.
Nasoro Masudi and Ali bin Saidi came to me this
morning before starting, and told mo to be very careful
on the road, and sent nine men with guns, and a head
man with orders to keep close to me the whole time.

July •-'<».
On tlin

tSlaiilr

v.'stcrday, so that it is only two days ahead of me.
Sasuro Alasudi and Co. evidently meant to follow up
oil our road bevoiid I'naria, just as .Vbdullah l\.aron}j:o mmvii to
followed Mr. Stanley.

.In/// 21f/t. — Started at o'clock and camjied at a
laruc villa<>'e (called llnvov, tribe liabnra, at o'clock,
doini^' a good ten hours' march. 'I'he road was one mass
of creepers, cane-brake, and swamj). Here I found
Nasoro Masudi and .\li bin Saidi. The former, with his
usual hospitality, sent me a delicious cnrried fowl, and
ottcit'd me rice for the load, and chick(Mis ; but I declined
tlicin with thanks, telling him that he was going wh(«ro

I 'i

lilili'

I 1

I'l

Julv --'8.

On I lie

inarcli to

StaiiUn'

FulU!

! (•■

3'^

sr(/iiy OF rill': hi: a a column.

They say tluir iimny of X\\v men who tried to hnli to
StJinh'V Tails are on the road, and Imve no jj;ood intcii.
tions towards me. The worst of these hrntes is tlial tlicy
will not fight openly, but will shake hands with you ono
moment and shoot you the next.

Juhf 2M, Siindn}/. — ( lot away shortly after fi a.m., and
reaelu'd Tanjika, trihe NN'amanga, at o o'clock. 'I'iie load
good, and the men went very fast, doing in one <layt\V(,
marches of Major Hartteh)t's, distanceahout twenty miles.
On the road we met two of Muni Maharas head men
from Nyangwe, with about 200 guns, to whom Tiii|))i-
Tib has «riven leave to hunt for ivory uj) the Aruwiini,
This means that they will fight the natives, settle a lot of
villages, and then he will claim them, 'i'he huts here arc
long, low sheds, quite different from any on the Aruwiini.

Juhj 80^//. — Started at a.m., and marched to a
village called Yaruloa, where we stopped for three hours
to let the men buy and cook food. This is a lars^c
village, with many Arabs in it. The head man Marijaiia
sent me lunch, and whilst waiting for the men 1 \\vm\v
a sketch of the native chief Tina-Tina, tribe Waman<i;ii.
Started again at 12 o'clock and marched until after o I'.M ,
and having done a good sixteen miles, cam])ed in tlu*
forest. Tlie Arabs hate the way that the natives show
their liking for a white man, and try and prevent one's
paying them for anything or giving them a present.

July 31*f . — Started before 6 a.m., and reached the
first village at 12 o'clock, where I found Salem Masudi.
with a letter from Tippu-Tib, asking me to leavt all
loads at Unaria, and to come to Stanley Falls as soon
as possible. Salem Masudi's orders were to catoli
Sanga, the man who shot Harttelot, and then to fi)ul
me. He has found and sent Sanga to Stanley Falls.
Marched to this village, Yatatuka, about four hours
further. Salem had orders to open the bundles ot
e^'ery man he met on the road, and we found cloth and
beads on one of my men, who was with me, and not in
Unaria, w'hen the things were stolen. He confessed
that Faragi, the head muuiapara of our Zanzibaris, luid

1)1 Aur.

lUo

SiaiiU'v
l<'uU»*.

('ivfii tlicni to liiiii to Imv rice at tlic l*'alls. Whom is .'f*^?,,

Ill 'i>' 'I'M • • •! 1 ''"'y •"•

niic to trust { 1 hear li|t|Mi-iil) is iii a tcnihlc stale o,, ,|,„

;il)()iit tlic whole matter, and Nhini Somai received such man-ii to

;i letter from him that it inade him (juite sick, and he

;i>ki'd my leave to «j:o ahead, as he felt had! Salem

foimd some stolen cloth also on Alxlullah Karon«^()'s men.

Aiif/K.sf ifif. — Started hefore (i A.M. and reached ^'arra-
(()inl)i, on th(^ (.'on<i;o, opposite to Vatuka, at a little
litter 11 A.M. 1 allowed the men t«) l)uy food, and ijjet
;i\vay in canoes as fast as possil)le. Could obtain no
iKWs of Ileri, or Daodi, the men who ran away from
the Major. Reached l'])per Atia(Misu at dark, where
the natives refused to ^o in canoes in the niti^ht,
but Salem Masudi threatened to l)urn their villa«j;e, as
Tippu-Tib had sent for me, so we got away at last and
s|K'iit a most miserable night amongst the rocks, getting
ill liere (Stanley Falls) shortly after daybreak.

Jiif/Hsf 2n(J. — Found that the new Belgian ])addlo-
stcainer E/t Avcmt arrived here yesterday, with the new
(hicf of this Stati(m. AVent straight to Ti})|)u-Til) on
airi\al, and told him I wished to have a house on this
side close to him, as I had much business to do with him
and not much time to do it in. He gave me the house of
Niisoro bin Saef, who is not here. Wrote a note over to
Mous. liaert, as I heard AVard was at Hangala, asking him
if lie had sent up mv; letters or telegrams, at the same
time thanking him (liaert) and his brother officers for
their kind invitation to go and stay with him on the
(itlier side. Keceivcd a re])ly from Haert, saying Ward
was not very pleased with his position, i)ut telling
me nothing about telegrams or letters, adding that he
would come over and see me in a few hours.

Later. — Mons. Haert arrived in about an hour. Me
tells me that Ward had come up in the IJn /Ivant to
Uangala, having seen A an Kerckhoven on the road,
riiere he received his orders to remain in charge of the
loads, and it seems that he reserved the letters and the
re])ly to the telegram also on shore ! The ca])tain of the
steamer says there were boxes for me from England,
with 15 letters, and letters for the other officers, a reply

![■

lit

Mil*-

»i

i:;:':

!!:•

(|!iH

! I

! il

\iiguiit J.
Stimh'v

:j4(i

sT'nn- OF Tin: iii:\h' corrMy,

to tclcLfrjmi, t'mm tlic ( '(mmiillct*, «S:c. tSrc. Xow T nm
Ictf licic ill a must scridiis |>(isitio!i, not kiioui-pr
uliiit i('|»ly (he ( 'oiniiiitlcr have sent, and I can onU
Jiiflu'c lliat it is not a recall iVom tlic fact tliat Wind
(lid not send it on, and that. acc(»i<liii«j; to tlic last
news tVoin I'luropc, notliiii;^: is known of Mi*. Staiilc\
'1 i|)|)U-'i'ii) sent inc a capital hrcakfasl. and after Hacit s
departure (;aine over to liaxc a ])iivate interview ujtli
nie. I told liiin all tliat I liad (hnie nt Tnaria, and tlinr
I had come to him to help me to make such aiiaiiLTc.
ments as would |)ermit of the Expedition jiroceedinn as
soon as possihle. and to demand justice on the niiirdcrci
of Major liarttelot. lie said, " 1 am almost afiaid tn
send yon with tlu'se men; I think Major IJarttcJots
murder must have heen a tiling* thonij^ht of hy iiiaiiv."
1 told him there mi<iht have heen a had feelinj;' annjnst
the Major, and there mi<;ht he against nH», hut it uiis
evidently not a prenu'ditated act, and that his munlcr
and the loss of so many loads were due nndonhtedly tc
the utter inea])acity of Muni Somai to command the incii ;
that if he could L^ive me a man who was a sufHcient repic-
sentative of his ])ower, to command them, that 1 iniiilit
feel some safety ioi' the loads, and some hope of succi'sn
in tlic nndertakinLr. it was my duty, in the ahscncc of
all news in Kui'o|)e from Mr. Stanley, ami with no news
from tlic (Committee, to proceed at once. As re<^'anl<'(l
my own life. I said that he could not be held answcrahlf
for its safety, for there wimc a hundnMl ways in which I
mi:,dit die on sucji an Kxpi^dition, and that if I nndertook
it with my eyes open, J alone was answerable for anything,'
that mii»:ht hap))en to ine, ortothe loads, and for tlie loss
of Mr. Bonny 's life, slionld such a thinj^ij occnr. I told
him that Muni Soniai's contract with me was utterly
broken, and asked him if he could send llachid, N/.ii;c's
son, with me. Tie made an excnse abont his not beiiiij;
able to march well, which I knew to be untrue, and
fonnd ont that the real reason was that >«ziji:e does not
wish him to go. I told 'J'ippn-'i'ib that if ho sent
TIachid with me I would give him the same amoinit
tliat Mnni Somai was to have received, and further,

I<1'

hlAliV.

o<i<

that if ill' sliuk to IMP y'\\i]\\ tlirniiy:Ii I ^\^lll(l ;,ni;ii;iiit<'<'
him L*"»'l() ln'sidcs out ot my nun pocket. He iiskrd
nic tor time until to-nionow to tliink it all over, and
iii(|iiir('(l wlictlicr Ik* nonld he licld answcnililc tor tin*
liis> of till* loads and Major narttclot's death. I told
hiiii llic truth, that aceordiuLr to his contract he wa.s
lint, hut thai .Muni Soniai \vas, accordinj^ to liis con-
tnict, certaiidy auswerahlc for all ; that this was my
(i|iiiiion, hut that th*? real ])(M)|)le to ju(l«;e the matter
wdiild Ik' the Committee, wIkmi they knew all the facts
of the case. I then asked him for justice on Saii^a,
the iiiJUi ^vho shot Major IJarttelot. Me rejtlied, •• [
iiavc him here in j)ris()n : it is your case; I will deliver
liiiii over to you. " I told him that as the now lielnian
tliicf of the Station had arrived, and the act had l)een
(oiiiinitted in their territory, I should communicate
the facts U) him without delay, and that although I
could, after what he iiad said, tak*' Sanj^a o»it and have
him shot, many voices would be raised a<i;ainst such a
proceeding. lie said, " Von are ri^ht." Finally he
said he would think over everything and see me ai>ain
to-morrow morninj^. 1 then <jjot a canoe and crossed
over to the Hel<;iau Station, was introduced to Mons,
llaneuse, the new Resident, and told him about the
case of the man Sani:;a, and that he admitted his <^;iilt.
He said, "There is only one thinjjj to be done. 'ri|)j>u-
Til), Mons. lia(>rt, and I will hold a council of war, call
out a file of men, and have him shot." It is mv duty
to answer the call of justice, and to see this man shot
before I leave. Yet, aijain, it maij turn out aiiainst the
interests of the Kxpedition to have him executed until
after my de])arture, in that it may cause a doul)ly bad
feelin<4' amongst the Manyemas ai^ainst the white men.
It is, however, only just that he should be shot l)i'fore
tlu re is any ])ossibility of his escape, and there is a chance
of its liavin^" a i>;()od effect on the Manyemas instead of
a bad one. Mons. llaneuse offered to send tlie steamer
l)a(k at once for the loads and letters, if I would write
to \\'ard telliuf;- him to deliver them all up, and niukc
anannfMuents with Tippu-Tib that he might receive them.

AiiKiKt 'J

SI an Icy

KiIIm.

liiliff^^lBTFn

M , ■ ' "F"! *

p.' ^

1' : V-

'ii

lit

i'M

ill''

IRHfl.
/LiigUHl 2.

Falls.

"v>:;

348

aroity OF Till': rear ('(jlumn.

On my return to tins side I nj^uin saw Tippu-'l'il), \v||f)
jippojirs to he v(My anxious about the news of tlir
Sultan of /an/.ihar's doatb, and wanted to know if tlic
news had <i;on(! to Kuro|)e hy telegram or h'ttcM'. Told
him it wouhl he prohahly hy tele«;ram, hut tliat I would
find out. He said, " 1 have heen exp(»etin<!; canoes from
Kasson<.;o sin(;e the mi(hik' of tlie montli ; tliey will hp
here in the next two <hiys ; if tliere is any news IVoin
Ui^anda or Unyoro T will know it" ((toneernini^Stinilcv).
lie was dee|)ly interested in the news that (icnciiil
lioulan^cr was likely to become head of the Frciicli
Government, as he ho|)ed it mi<j;ht lead to a war with
Germany. I can only hope that he will send Racliid
with me, for he has more personal authority ov(>r the
Manyemas than any one except himself

August ^rd. — 'I'i])pu-Tib crossed over to the l>(>l<rini,
Station this morninj.^, and told them that there are only
three men in the country who could now fj^o in coniiniuid
of the ManvfMnas : Sefo, his son, Rachid, Nzii»;e's son.
and himself. lie said that he himself could <i;o in
two days' time, if it was necessary (this he told me yeslcr-
day). They told him they could not consent to his
goiuiij, as all his duties lay here as chief of the Station.
but that he ou<j;iit to use all his influence with liachid
to make him go, Sefo is chief at Kassonjjjo, and it
would take him too long to get here. Tippu-Tib says
he has sent for liachid to the Lumami Kiver to-day, and
that he will be here in two or three days' time; that he
is a perfectly free agent, having his own money and
men, and that I should have to treat with hini per-
sonally. After breakfast I told 'ri})pu-Tib that 1 wished
to have Muni Somai's case tried before liim and all tlic
other Arabs, so that no one could say 1 had torn ii]) lii>
contract unfairly. TIut all accordingly assembled, and
he was sent for. I read out to them the whole of th
contract, and stated that at Nasoro bin Saef's village Ik
had c(mfessed to me that he could not make the Man-
yemas obey him, and that he had refusiMl to seiul ii
guard of his men with Mr. iionny to I'naria. 1 tiien

li >.\u,

Liymnt.

s-ia

st;it("l all the facts conrrrninpj Major T^arttclot's dcNitli,

when Muni Soinai lind openly doscrtod, and 1 tnrnod sunipy

roi

those statements, il

nid and asked liini if lie had anythin«j; to say a<j;ainst ^'"•••*

e l)ei>an to mutter somethin<c, \v

hen

Tippu-Tih said, '' Stop, you hav(! not aie word to say
(h'fenc'e; J know all this to !)(• tru(\" lie then asked

111

inc what I wished to do. I answered that, in the first
nhice, I should d(»stroy all the contracts, and then make
liiiii deliver up all aunnunition, ritles, tent, revolver, 6cc.
which lie had received from us, and trv to recover from

liiiii tin; sums ot money advanced in ))art ])aym(*nt to
liiiiiself and his men. 'l'i|)])u-'rih then asked me to

stiite the sums, and wrote them flown on j)a])er, sayin«j^,
"1 will s(»ttle all tliis matter for you." I mentioiu^l iho
fad to .Mons. Wwvxi to-day that Tijipu-'rib was ratlier
jiiiz/led at tiie arriv.d of a Belgian ciiief of tlu* Station,
when he had liimself been a|)|)ointed cliic^f. IJaert ex-
|)hiined that Mons. Ilaneuse was not to be chief here,
l)ut only liesident, and promis(ul to ("xplain the ])ositi(m
to 'ri];])U-'ril). 1 see from Barttelot's instructions to
Ward, which T read to-day for the first time, that he is
not wr()n<j; in tiie matter of keeping thin<^s at IJan^ala,
for his instructions wen^ that if on arrival tliere ho
hi'iud that we had left "N'ambuya, he was to keep all
stores brou<»ht n]) by him there, and only fonvard the
reply of the Committee in casi^ of its b(>ing a recall.

LETTER TO ANDllKW JAMESON, Esq.

Stanley Falls,

Auf,MiHt 3r(l, 1F88.

My dear Andy,

... A few days after our departure from Yambuya
( ainp, the desertions of the /anzibaris with their loads
and rifles be<2;an, and at last they became so bad, fourteen
h!ivin<ij bolted in one lot, that, on Jinn^ 24th, Major
Barttelot left for Stanley Falls, leavin*^ me in command,
to sec what Tippn-Tib could do towards the recovery of
men and loads. My personal duties then lay almost

t' . i.

I i

nil; I I'!

800

«y'oyn' o/<' 77/ A' yi/vv/ii column.

IfiPH.
Fall8.

(Mitiroly wifli tlir Mjiiiyoinus (400) supplied hy 'lippn.
Til), r lijul serious tr<)ul)le with tliern on inuiiv (((ji-
sious. When witliin four or five days of lJna)ia,;i !)i|.r
way u[) the Aruwiini River, I sent on Mr. Ilonnv with
the Soudanese and /anzii)aris to tliat place. At iliis
tiin(^ we had a iniinher of h)ads, and no men to currv
tluun, for we liad had to take all th(^ rifles and ainiiiiiui.
tion from tlie /anzibaris, and (;arry thein as loads, under
an escort, to ])r(^V(mt thcur (h'S(M'tin<^. I had thcrct'orn
to n^main where 1 was, with those loads, until tin
return of men from Unaria to carry them. At this
time the Manyemas were with me, and I had serious
troubk; in f^c^ttinfj; them tf) start for Unaria, and a picttv
narrow sfjueak for niy life, when I thiidv of [Xjor Mnjor
l>arttelot's death afterwards. One ni^ht, after Mr. iioiuiv
left, I had ^one to b(>d, and ont of pure d(!vilment fhcv
tired off abont 100 <ijnns in a minute round my tcMit. 1
suppose to frii^hten me. Some of the <j^uns were tiicil
off ri<.,dit beside the tent, li^htinij; it uj) with the Hush.
I jum])ed out of bcul, and ran out, calc liin«ij one niiui in
tiui act of firinjjj off his <^un at the back of tin; tent. 1
ran at him, when he flunjjj his gun to another nuui, iuid
I cau<j^ht him by the arm, and shouted out to tin; licad
Arab in char<r(? (Muni Somai) to come to me. lie had
run into his tent in a funk. The man was a bi<jj fellow,
and it was all I could do to hold him. 1 sent a Sou-
danese for Muni Somai, wluMi another Manyema ciunc
u]), and put his fjjun on full cock ri<^ht up close to my
breast, wlien Muni Somai arrived, and then then^ was
a d(;vil of a row. I told them all that I would slioot
the very next man that fired off his gun besides my tent,
and not anotlun* gun was fired whilst they remained in
that camp. 1 did not think much of it at the time, hut
since then I have. I got the Manyemas at last to go on
to Unaria, and a few days jifterwards the men returned
for the loads, and I started. On the 21st July at mid-
day, when nearing our camping-place, I met two mes-
sengers from Bonny, with a note simply stating the fact
that poor Major Barttelot had been shot dead by one
of the Manyemas, early on the morning of the 10th,

UMN.

M'Ii<''l hy Ti,,,,„.
n ()n iriuiiy iHr;\,.
'>^" nn;iri;i,;i Imh-t

Mr. IJonijy w
Pl'i<:<'- At inis
no moM to ciinv
rtes and HinMniin'.
n fis lojids, iiiidcr

J liiid flicivtoif.
loads, until the

Hicin. At this
f» 1 fiad serious
na, and a |)i(>tiv
Iv of poor .M;ij,,r

after Mr. lioiiny
I dcvilrnont thcv
ouiid my tf>iif. f
,i,nins wcro tiicl
) with tho tiash.
iinf( Olio iTiiiii ill

of \\m t(>iit. [
lothor man, and
out to \\w. head
o mo. IIo had
'as a h\<r f(.ll„\v,
1 sent a Sou-
Manyema rairic
n\) doso to my
then tJioro was

I would slioot
bosido my tent,
oy romainod in
Lt tho timo, hilt
■it last to <r() on
? mon rotnrnod
it July at mid-

met two incs-
itatinjr tho fiict
t doad by one
; of tho 10th,

L/rrr/jR.

OOl

and that tlio head man and ali of tliom hnd bolted.

I'liore liad boon a ])orf<H;t do\vn|»our ofriiin idl mornin<;-,

so 1 ("im|)(*d, as t.lio men wore too tired to <j^o on, and

1 I iiiv stiirtin*^ for Unaria that ovonin*; wjis useless. Next

iiioniin*^ at daybronk I started with tlirer mon, leaving

tli(! loads to couw. on after mo in (•liar«:;o of a Soudanese

escort, and reaohod llnaria at sunset, havin<jr done tliree

iiiiiichcs in ono day. Ilon^ I found all (|uiet, nnd .Mr.

Honiiy told mv. the followin*^ story: — .Major lijirttelot

iinived at Mnaria on tho ('venin^ of the* 17th. On tlio

18fh h(? «.^;ivo ono of the Manyomns (the men su|)|)li(!d

bv Ti))|)u-'i'ib) a thrasliini; for tiiin<^ oif his ^un in the

villa^'e. On t\\v. u\<i;ht of the ISth some of them were

hciitin.'.^ tluMi' drums, and sin<rin^, wlu*u tho .Major

Milt his boy to thom, and tin; noiso (teased. About 4

o'clock next morniuf^, just l)efor(^ daybrenk, th(>y be<^an

af,'aiii (it is thoir constant practioo ovcMy morninj^; at

this liour). lie a^ain sent liis boy to them, wh(m loud

imirrnnrs won^ hoard, and two shots won^ fired off in

the air. Tlu' Mtijor then jum))od out of bed, ])ut liis

flothes on, and his revolver in his pocket, and loft the

house, alth()U<ifh Bonny tried to jxnsuade him not to do

so. Immediately afterwards a siiot was fir(;d, and loud

shouts were lu^ard of, "The .Major is killed." A fearful

jKinic then took jdace, tht; Manyemas boltinii; in ov(^ry

direction. Bonny went out, but could not find a /an-

zihari ; called for .Muni Somai, but lie did not (;omo ;

fold the Soudanese to follow him ; tluiy stood to arms,

hut would not follow. Tie then went towards wlun'o the

shot was fired, followcul by (y'hana, a Somali, and Omaha,

a Soudanese officer, until ho camo to tho Major's body,

whicli was lyin}^ outside a house, quite close by. He

had heen shot stone dead on tlu; spot, for not a muscle

of his face had moved. Jle was lying on his back, with

one hand under him, holding his revolv(;r, which had

not been discharged. From what I have heard since,

it appears ho went to this bouse, where a woman was

beating a drum, and singing, and said, " Who is that

making this noiso ? Stop it ! " The man inside, on

seeing who it was, turned round to a boy of his, and

.\ugust 3.

Stanley

I w

]■■

i>'\l

]

;

1 i

■ I

i }

1«88.

.Stanley
FuIIh.

n52

STOIty OF TIIK HEAR dOLUMS.

sfiid, " Oil ! licrc is tlio white rriuii nomo to 1)('iit mv
wife; slioot liini " — iijion wiiicli tlic hoy |>iok('(l uji ,'i
j^uii, and shot him stone dcfid through tlu^ clicst. Ilu
vviis huiicd that afternoon in a (juict spot iti the fojcst
and IJonny spent the rest of the day in i(H-overing lomls.
Muni Soniai liad holted in his shiit, lejivin*^ his prmin^
things on tlu^ ground, nnd was not seen iigiiin. I ic
niaiiied two (hiys in Unaria, arranging everytliiiig inid
interviewing the head Mjinyeinas, whoiri 1 succeeded in
getting to come in iind see me. Any a(;t of rej)risal on
Mr. lionny's ))iirt at tiie time, or on my jKirt jifter niv
arrival, woidd hiiv(^ heen fatal to tin; wlioh; I'lxjX'ditiofi^
for hiid we given i\\v /an/ihaiis their guns, they would
only li!iv(» run away with them, and that would liavc^ left iis
with less thiin twenty Soudanese; to fight 40(1 .Maiivt'inas.
I told all the head men that I was going striiiglit to
'ri|>pu'ril) to liv and arrange for a fresh start, iiiid tliat
1 wanted them to canij) in the victinity, where there was
plenty of food ; on no account to come into the vilhiLio.
for that migiit only lead to fresh troul)le, hut to wait
quietly until I rettuned from Tip))U-'rih, whi(;h I would
do as (piickly as possihle. 'I'lu^y all agreed to this, and
told rn(; that Sanga, tin? man who had cnused .Major IJart-
telot to he shot, hiid gone; to StanU^y Falls. I started
on the 2oth, and reached ^ arracorrd)i, on tin; ('oiigo, on
Aug. 1st, having takcni seven days and two hours to do
loO iniles with loads. Our road liiy through swanip
and (tane-hrake for the most i)art, and was in a fiigiitfnl
state after the late lieavy rains. (iot a canoe, and
reached Stanh'y I'alls morning at dayl)reak, liavin;,'
s])ent all night dodging amongst the rocks in the river.
Oh \\\\ road I mc^t .Muni Somai returning to Unaria, he
having heen turned hack hy one of 'ri})pu-'ril)'s head
Arahs. J told him to send all his men back, hut to
comc! himself with mo to 'i'i])pu-'rih. I also met Nasoro
Masudi and Ali bin Saidi, two big Arabs, who were
very kind to me, and insisted on giving me a guard of
nine men, and a head man to stick to me day and nij^lit,
for they said that there were a good many of the men
on the road who liad tried to bolt to Stanley I'Vlls, and

LETT Ell.

553

that flioy liaM no f^ruxl intentions towjinls mo

also told m(» that soino of tliom rnoant to have a sliot at

HIP l)oforc I p;<)t into Unaria, but tlioy never thoufjjlit I

(ould ^et tliore so quickly. Ciod bless tli(;m ! Went

strai^lit to 'rif)[)U-'rib on my arrival here, and had a

prrfectly f)rivate interview with him. Told him that I

jiafl rome to seek his aid, in order to proceed at once, and

t(» (leiriand justice on San«^a. lie told me that h(^ was

iitr,ii<l to let the Kxpedition proce(»d — my life had been

threatened, Major Harttelot had been shot, and the

Miinyemas wen? even worse than he thou<^ht. I told

him that, as rej^arded my own life, there were a hundred

ways on siudi an exj)editi(m in which I might lose it ;

my duty was to go on at all hazards, and if he could

Ijet m(? a big Arab, sufficiently representative of his

imtliority to insure to some extent the safety of the

h)Hfls, and tlie ultimate success of the Expedition, I

would go on at once. I then told him I wanted Ilachid,

his brother iS'/igc's son. Iff; asked mc to give him until

the next day to think it all over, and said that he had

Saiiga here in chains, and would deliver him over to mc

for justice, as it was my case. I told liim that as the deed

was done in what the IJelgians call their territory, and

tho new Resident had airivcid here the day befor(\ I

should see him about it. It ay)p(?ars that Ward, who

was sent down the (.'ongo with telegrams in .March,

returned on board tlie steamer that brouglit the Belgian

Hosident here, but his orders were only to send on the

answer from the (Committee if it was a recall, and if he

hcaid tliat we had left Yambuya (/'amp, he was to keep

all the stores, &c., whicli he had brought up, at Bangala.

This is an awful blow to me, as the; captain of the steamer

told ine he had about fift(;en letters for me, also cases

froiii I'iUgland, as well as letters for all the other offic(!rs.

Poor Major Haittelot little thought

what was going to happen when he sent those orders
to ^Var(l ; we ex])ectcd by this time to be far on our

way to Albert Nyanza Ti|)pu-'ril) told me that

he had sent to the Lumami Kiver for Hachid.

•J A

Sliiiilfty
Fullt).

I '.

■A

i !«:!

t :

m r

\'< '1 i

IM!

1888.
AuguHt 5.

Stanlpv
Fulls."

354

STOm' OF TJIh: Jih'AJt COLUMN,

'U/j>^«r G^(}»

[Aug. t>th.) Sefo has the command at Kassongo. and
it would take him too long to get here. You see 1 did
not make a bad choice in my man, and he (Rachid) is the
man that I always tried to get the poor Major to ask fur,
but he had taken some dislike to him^and would not do so.
I know he dislikes Europeans, but he is a young mau—
ambitious, and fond of money, and I think I can touch
him on all those points, lie is feared like the very
devil by all the Manycmas, and will be about the biggest
man in the whole of this country. He is a perfectly
free agent, having his own money and men, and I shall
have to deal with him personally. Sanga, the man who
shot the Major, is to be tried to-morrow morning Mt the
Belgian Station, before the Resident and Tippu-Tib, and
will be shot afterwards. As this will happen before 1
leave for Unaria, they will hear of it there when I arrive,
and I suppose it will make a few more ambitious to have
a pot at me, but it is my pure bounden duty to see this

man shot before I leave, so I can't help that

It is a long, long road that has no turnino
and I hope to God ours will take a turn in the right

Lh:m:RS,

35.5

iliroctioii before \ow^. The onlr ^ame to play with tlie

Arabs is a perfectly open one, keepinjjj your own liands
(lean, and watching like the very devil to see what
( aids they have up tlieir sleeves. Whatever happens to
me, old man, I've tried to do my duty in this blessed Expe-
dition, and many a time, when I have thought of Etliol
iind home, I would have liked to chuck the whole
thing up, when there were plenty of officers to take my
place. ...

LETTER TO MRS. JAMESOX.

StanU'v Falls,

August 3rd, 1S88.

.... Little did I think, when I spoke to you of my
foelings of duty, that I should ever be placed in such a
position as I now am, in which all that 1 feel for you
iind our little ones cries out against what I must do as
ail officer of this Expedition, AMtli one word, or even
a show of "vcakness on my part, I could stop the whole
Kxpeditiou, which seems fated to meet with nothing
l)ut reverses, and return to you, but God knows such a
thought never entered my heart, although I could easily
defend such an action on my part. The first thing that
flashed across my brain on finding myself so placed was
your father s favourite text, "Know, O man, that to know
and love justice, and to do the thing that is riglit, that
shall bring a man peace at the last," and you will see what
a lielp every word in that verse has been to me now. Poor
Major Barttelot was shot dead by one of the Manyemas

early on the morning of the 19th July I

am writing this in the early morning before my inter-
view with Tippu-Tib, as I have to seize every moment I
(an, for I have much to write to the Committee. Poor
Barttelot was one of the closest friends I ever had, and
the absence of all news from vou makes me, as v<)u
tan imagine, rather low, to say the least of it. 'J'ip])u-
Tib is almost afraid to send on the Expedition for fear
of what would be said of him, should anything happen

to it, and I have to appear ])efore him as full of life and

0.0

1888.
August 6.

StjinleT
Pallf.

\i: 1^ tL.iJM'^f.

Miy

356

M: .::•

I' : I :

STORY OF TJIh' RKAIi CU/MMS.

IfiSH.

August a,

Stniilpy
Fulla.

t )

hope as T possibly can to keep liim up to the mark.
Behind my hack there are tlie most foul reports hcini;
spread by Assad Farran, the dismissed Soudanese intci-
])reter, but, thank God, I can clear my character from
them. I will fully explain all this afterwards.

{August f)th, Sunday). ... I will try my utmost t<.
induce Rachid to go with us. . . . The reports that
Assad Farran, the dismissed interpreter, wrote down on
paper for some of the lielgian officers are one tissue of
falselioods. They are about my shooting]; natives on tli(>
way to Kassongo, and buying a girl to be eaten l)y ciu).
nibals at liiba-Riba on my way back. I am almost smc
that in my letter to you from Kassongo I mentioned
the fact of having shot at some natives for the protection
of the caravan of canoes I was going with. I liave sonr
a true account of both affairs to Mr. Mackinnon, and I
am liaving the necessary witnesses examined here l)efoio
one of the Belgian officers, and papers signed to send
home. It is a blessing tliat I am enabled to do so. It is
an awful thing to think that a low scoundrel like Assad
Farran should be allowed to traduce one behind one's
back, when one has not a cliance of defending oneself!
I am so anxious about everything that I lie awake for
hours at night thinking, but when once on the march
again, all tliat will pass. I only do pray that I may <];ct
the Expedition started again, but tlie Arabs are ven
hard customers to deal with. Whatever happens, you,
at any rate, will know that I have done my best.

DIAKY {continued).

Aiif/usf \th. — Copying letters all day. Tippu-Tib is
sending men at once to a number of villages to try and
recover loads and deserters. He seems much more
hopeful to-day. '^^'rote to Mr. Mackinnon explainini;
Assad Farran's statements about me. Took over all
letters and poor Barttelot's things to the Belgian Station
in the evening. "Wrote to A^'ard at Bangala, telling liim
to hand over all letters for us to the captain of the first
steamer that ])assed up to the Falls, and on no accouut

to the mark. .
>ul reports hcinu
Soiuhuioso iutci-
f character from
rwards.

;ry my utmost {<,
lie reports tliar
% wrote down on
are one tissue of
i^ natives on tli(^
be eaten by can-
I am almost smc
fro I mentioned
for the protection
tb. I liave sonr
ackinnon, and 1
lined here l)efoio

signed to send
d to do so. It is
ndrel like Assad
)ne behind one's
fending oneself!
I lie awake foi'
! on the march
y that I may <^q\

Arabs are vcn
er happens, you,

my best.

Tippu-Tib is
llages to try and
ms much raoiv
anon explainini:
Took over all
Belgian Station
gala, telling liim
ptain of the first
d on no account

DIARY.

i>57

lft8fl.
Aiif^iHt 4.

.Stanlt'v
Falls;

Hiiiulod
over bv
>fiini Sd-
niiii sovcn

to leave Bangala until liearing from tlie Committee, as
I iniglit wisli to employ him at any moment either with
[lie loads or telegrams.

Attf/usf ^)fJi, Sundftfj. — Mons. Haneuse, Botscm, and
r»aert came over to see 'J'i})pu-'rib and sent for me,
when it was agreed that li])])u- lib should cross to the 1.17 iouiuIh
Belgian Station to-morrow morning, bringing with him ''"• ""i"^"';
Sanga, the man wlio sliot liartttdot, when lie will be voUfr, '
tried and ex(u;uted. I know tliat his beinu; sliot l)ef()re '"^ loimtU
1 leave will create many enemies tor me among the (,m,- side uf
Manyemas in our camp, as they will then liear of it, ^'"'*'
but it is mv dutv to see it done myself. ^Vrote my
private letters. Muni Somai came to see me, and in
the most abject manner begged to be allowed to keep
the tent and revolver, or buy tliem. I told him they
were Mr. Stanley's, and 1 could not think of such a
thing. He then insisted on ])resenting me with two
slaves of his who are at Unaria — a man to carry a load,
ami a woman to cook and keep things tidy. I told
I'iin I did not Avant either, and that they wouhl be
iiiucli more useful to him. lie said he might never see
ine again, and that he would liand them over to Mr.
iJoiiny at Unaria. I believe he would tell the man to
shoot mc if he got the chance, and the woman to
poison me, for when he came in here, the c'^idng after
iiis trial, wliile sliaking hands with me befv leaving,
he simply clenched his teeth and shivered from head to
foot, and I could sec it was all he could do to contain
himself. He went to Tippu-Tib this morning, and
asked him who was going to pay him the money for his
men and himself, for the time they had been with us.
Tippu-Tib merely said, " You had better go and ask
Mr. Jameson that." He is going to join one of the
ivory-hunting parties from Unaria to-morrow, I believe
Xasoro IMasudi's. I wish them joy of him.

Auf/usf C)fh. — llachid arrived from the Ijumami River
this morning. After breakfast he came and had an
interview. I told him he was tlu' man I wanted to

1.1

^ij i

jijf.i: liii Jjli^i

Ill

I 1

lft8«.
Aug'iat (i.

Stanley
FttlU.

f II

358

STORY OF THE Hi: Alt COLUMN.

liclp mo, and that if lio camo now, aftor all that Imd
taken |)laro, and jjjot ns through cither to Stanloy or
Kinin l*asha, he wonld he makiiiuf a very <^re}it name tor
himself; few men have ever had tlio same chance. j|i<
ur«j;ed that he had a conntry of his own, many pcHopl,.,
and a re«i;ular (jnantity of ivory cominj; in every iiiontli,
and that there was no one left to look after his Imsinoss,
I told him that I knew well tliat he was a very hi«^ man,
but that he would win a greater name than any one in
this country, should he be the means of our jjettin"
throuf^li to Kmin Pasha. I offered him £1,()()() (the suinc
as to Aluni Somai), and a further sum of £500, as well as
hiring 100 of his men, not to carry loads, but as a fi<i;htiny;
force. He asked for a short time to think it over, aiul
returned in an hour to say that he was sorry that
he could not come this time. Next month he expected
to receive 500 tusks of ivory, his father was ^^u\\v^
to Zanzibar, there was no one to look after his ali'airs,
the road was a long one, Mr. Stanley had gone away for
only some months, and had now been away for more
than a year, and no one knew any tiling of him. 1
explained to him that Stanley's men did not understand
fighting natives as well as the Manyemas did ; that many
men had run awny on the road, and many had (hcd ;
that from Eturi, where he was last heard of, to the Lak(>
was only a montli's journey ; that nothing having been
heard of him beyond the Lake, it would appear that lie
was somewhere on that montli's journey, most probahiv
in a strong camp, expecting us every day. lie still
maintained that he could not come, and went away. 1
sent for i'ip])u-Tib, and gave him the reasons Rachid
had given me, and asked him whether he thought that
I might yet induce him to go by guaranteeing him any
sum in case of any loss he might incur in ivory. Ho
told me No, that the real reason of his refusal was that
he was afraid to come, for he feared death. He said
he had now sent for Selim Mahommed, thinking he
might come, as he is a man who is anxious to make
money. I reminded him that Selim Mahommed
had had very serious trouble at Yambuya with M<ij( ;

f I

^tj

UIAUV.

nnrtfclotand Mr. n(iiiny»f^ii(l tliat should nnytliinpfwronj?

.((•iir on tlio nmd, tlio Committoo would justly l)latno

1110 tor havin«j; taken him, knowinjjj what I (lid ; l)ut that

it he, 'lipjiii-'rih, would send him, not as a fioo aj^cnt,

liiit as a ixusonal n^prosontativo of his own, carryin^i; out

his ('i'ippu-Tih's) orders, I mi«;ht consider tlie matter.

I told Tippu that I must go on in any case, whatever

liappened ; that I had come to him for his aid an<l

advice ; and that if he liad given me all he could of hoth,

1 must try and think of a means of going on still, lie

jiiin))ed up out of his chair and said, "(iive me t*2(),()()0

and I and my people will go with you, find Mr. Stanley,

and relieve Emin Hey," and went out of the house.

This, to say the least of it, put me into a rather trying

position. Selim Mahommed is, I know, afraid to go,

and after what took place at Yambuya, I could not take

him even were he willing to do so. There is not another

man in the whole country able to go, Sefo having gone to

Zanzibar. As a matter of fact the whole Kxpedition at

the ])resent moment has broken down, and yet there

are all the loads and everything a long way on our

road, ready at Unaria. Tippu-Tib will do it for no less,

for 1 afterwards tried to get him to agree to so much a

montii, in case it took us only a very short time, when

£20,(100 would be too large a sum to pay anyone. I

also tried to make it conditional on success, but he said

those were his terms. The Belgians have refused to

idlow him to go ; they say his duties lie here, yet they

will let him go to Kassongo for ten months or a year

without a murmur. Tippu-Tib's proposition came from

liimself, for after what he and the Belgians told me the

other day, I never thought of asking him. If I sign

for this £20,000, surely the Committee and the country

would not see me ruined by making me pay it all, and

icfuse to acknowledge the contract. I will write to my

brothers at home, and tell them to see the Committee

on the subject, and if they will not ])ay more than part

of it, try to raise a subscription for the rest. Tippu-

Tib sent to me several times to know what my intentions

were, and at last 1 sent back to say that I would agree

Sfnnlcy
Fallt.

!,1

[.r

ii- 1

1:1 •!

■

fmi'^m

t , .

'ir ' ■

(

1 ' :rt

'•'

I, I

if:

( ' ■

w.,

Stuill<7

KhIU.

iJGO

SntHy ttF T/IK lilwtli COLtMX.

to Ills terms, hciiiji; driven to <l(»s|)('ration iind liiuin;;
thou«j;lit of even otiier wny out of it with a liopv' in jf
of our {i^oiiii:: on. It must not l)e for«;otten tliat siiKc
my arrival here the Mauyemas in our ramp luiv(» opciilv
avowed their intention (if 1 went on with them iiiNsclt)
of fjjoinj*; on witli tlie h)ads until they couhl tal\e a ^ikmI
viHa<j;e witli u homa, where they woidd Hin<j: tliciii
down, and ^o off ivory-luintini;, h'aviu"; Mr. Hdunv
and myself to do what we eouid. Tijjpu-'i'il) sent in
the afternoon to hv*j^ me to cross to the other side
with him, and settle the (piestion al)out his fiioiui^;, with
the Hel«>;ians. Wv crossed, jnid 'l'ii)]>u-'ril) o))(Mied his
case hy tellin<i: them he had tried to ^et Rachid to yo
with me, hut that he could not do so, and that there wns
no one else in the country to jijo l)ut himself. I had told
him that I would jjo on myself with his p(M)ple, '' i)ut."
said he, "■ if thev have already acted as thev have in mv
territorv, what would they do further onV lie now
wished to know if Mons. Ilaneuse thou<»ht he was
ri«>;ht or wron<i[ in iifoin*^. Ilaneuse told him that
if he w'as ^oini»; he had no pcnver to sto]) hini;
that 'rip])u-'I'ih himself knew what his contract with
the Kinf^ of the IJelufians \vas ; thpt he (Mons. Ilaneuso)
th()U<j;ht he oui>ht not to *;o, hut that he had no jjowerto
sto]) him. 'ri])pu-'rih then said : — " \t Zan/ihar I sii^iied
a contract with Mr. Stanley for the supply of OOO nicii:
and Mr. Ilolmwood said, ' If you cannot i»'et (»()0. \iv\
as many as you can.' I asked Mr. Stanley if he wanted
me to jj^o, but Mr. Stanley said No. When I «»<)t to
Stanley Falls, I could not *i;vt men, so I went to Kas-
son<j^o for them, where Mr. Jameson folloAvcd me ; the
result of this was that Ave ^ot 4(M) men. Whilst at
Kassonjjfo I heard from Assad Farran that Major liart-
telot Ayanted Selim Mahommed to ^o in command of
my men, but on askiniij Major l^arttelot at Stanley Falls
if he wanted him, he said, ' No, I do not even want
him near me.' I then introduced him to Muni Somai.
with the result that AFuni Somai signed an agreement
to belong to Major liarttelot and Mr. Jameson, and to
command my men. I then handed my men oyer to

D/.iny.

3C1

told liim that

to StOj) lliiu;

s coiitract with
Mons. IlaiuMisc)
had IK) ))()W('rt()
aiizihar I signed
►ly of 000 iiuMi:

Ot J»:0t (iOO. ;r,.f

oy if lie wanted
iVlion I oot to
[ wont to Kas-
lowed me: the
en. Whilst at
liat Major Dait-
n command of
^t Stanley Falls
not even want
'o Mnni Soinai.
d an a<?reeniont
imeson, and to
V men over to

Mimi Soniai, ^ivini; In'm full powers over them, to cut vug'^.M d
otf their handK or do nnythin«j: to tliein if necessary, hut siiuii.j
he could not eomnumd tluMU. Major Harttelot lias heen ''"'*^'*
killed. Mr. Jameson then came to me. I l)rou«;lit iiim
llacliid. Kacliid would not ^o. Mr. Jameson said, ' I
will ^o myself, for I must ^'o on.' I then told Mr.
■lanieson that I would «jo myself ^'ou and I, Mons.
I!aneus(», are hoth officers of the State ; will vou tell me

if 1 am ri<i;iit in ii;oinu: ?

ons.

Ill

inense

told

liim

could not say he was riujlit in j^oinu:, h'lt that if he was
licnt on tjointr, he could not sto]) him. It was then
agreed to settle the nuitter to-morrow mornin«j:, and
Sauza's trial also. After 'l'ii)|)U-'ril) had ji:one, I said to
Mons. llaneus(» and the other Heljjjian officers jucsent,
that 1 was sure the Kiusj; of the Hel,u;ians would not
blame 'i'i|)))U-'ril) for what he was j;oin«j; to do, hut
rather commend him. They all agreed to this. I told
them that althouj^h it was ii private FiX|)editi()n, hoth
the Kn^lish jx'ople and the l*'iU«i:lish (loveinment had ii
irreat interest in it, and that the Kin«jj of the iJel^ians
would never hlame 'l'i))pu-'ril) for hel])inj»; ns as he was
^ioinj^ to do. To this they also a,i>;reed. I said the
same to Tip[)n-Tih afterwards, and it greatly re-assured
him. Mons. Ilaneuse, in actinu; as he did, was only
doing his duty towards the State, for 'i'ii)])u-Tib knows
|»(>rfe(;tly well that his contract with the State forbids
liis leavinji; their territory, lie assured me that person-
ally he was ]ne])ared to do all he could to help the
Kx])editi()n, and I must say that he and all the other
oflicers have done so ahead v.

Av(/i(sf 7th. — Crossed to the other side cifter break-
fast, and Sani»a was tried before Mons. Ilaneuse, three
other lielgian officers, and Ti])pu-Tib. San<i^a was first
asked what he had to say. He told a rambling story
about Major Barttelot coming to his house where his
women were drumming and singing, and that Kapranga
came too ; that Major liarttelot kicked him ; and that
when Kapranga, the Major, and he were outside, some
(me fired a shot from beliind him, and shot the Major

;« *

'i^

nA'

^MM. lilit-

I i

18«8.
Aiii^iii^t, 7.

;(i2

srouy 01'' riih: />•/•:. u: column.

(Icjid, tlic hull f^oiiif^ ill ill liis I);i(k, hut that hv hfid not
(lone it. Here 'ri|»|)ii-'l'il) strit.cd that Saiij^H had told liim,
FttllH." on arrival here, that, lu; was in hcd at the time tlu; Major
was shot. Mods, flanciisc ask<'d him what iriad(! iiiiii
run away and conn; here. lie said that niany p('o|)l(! had

accused iiini o

1 h

d" h

iviiiir doiK! it, aiK

I so 1

ic ran away

then inad(.' the statement which Mr. iionny ha<I ^iven iric
on my arrival at I'naria, and further stated that all the
mMnia))aras of" the Manyr-ma, had assiiicd nie that Saii;,f;i
liad shot Major Hart clot. San^a was asked iflie had aii\-
tiiiu^ further to say. lie repeated that h(; had not done
it, and had run awjiy hecaiise p(!ople said he had, and th;il
on the road to V'arracoini)i ho had nn^t .Muni Somai, who,
when he saw him, ran away as fast as In; could. \'r)tiii<,'
pa|)ers were tiieii i^iveii to 'i'ippu-'rih, .Mons. Ilaneusc,
and the three other liel^iaii ofhc(Ms, to mark with ii
cross, if they v-onsidered him <^uilty, ;ind tf) le;ive hhuik
if innocent. All five papers were found crossed, so
Mons. Haneusf; told SanirJi that he had \)('X)]i foinid

<<uilty and would he; shot. il(' lau<^hin^ly n^plied
*' Well, do it quick." He was chained to a lar^c; loi^',
and when carried outside; said a^^ain with a lau^li, " It,
is all ii<^lit ; the white man l.^ dead, I am f^oiiii^ to die
too." lie was carried down to the rocks on tin; slioiv,
where a tirini;-party of six Iloiissas, at six paries, fired !it
him, and did not kill him ; fired a second tinu; and did iioi
kill him; then one of tin; helf^ian officers ran u|) witli a
revolver, and fired two shots into his head. Only four
hullets had hit him, two in the ri«^lit hrc^ast, oik; in tiu;
knee, and one in the throat, hesides the two from tlic
rcvoKcr. Aftei' the first dis(diar<.^e, wIk;]! he was hit l)\
some of the hullets, the look he ^a\e us was the most
hoirihle I think I ever saw on a man's face.

We then had lunch, and afterwards tried to arrange a
<;ontiact with 'ri|)|)ii-'ril>. I le hei(an hy a lon<^ statement,
saying that he would a(;ce|)t no less sum than t*2(),f)0(),
id that he would n'>t a<rreeto that sum heiiiir lessened.

<'ven were W(; to accomplish ev<'rytliiii«^ in three month^
or less; that if Ix^yond I'lturi he met a man with ;i
stronger force, and was attacked hy him, if Ik; saw that,

1)1 Mi Y.

•>i)-)

If'

tli;it lio hud not
;u 1i;h1 told liitu,

time \\\v. Major
what much; liim
lany [X'opic had
ic run awji} . I
y liad ^i\('ii inc
od that all the

rri(> that Saii;,'a
'd if he harl aiiv-
V had not done
i(! had, and f jiat
ini Sorriai, who,
could. X'otiiiir
oils, ffanciisc,
> rnjirk with a

to leave hhink
tid crossed, so
id heeii fouiid
liinf^dy replied
to a lar^e lf)<;^
I !i laii^h, " It
n Kf)in^ tf) die
; on th(! shoiv,

})aees, fired at
in(!and did noi

ran up with a
id. Only four
ist, oiu! in th(!

two from the

he was hit h\

was the mosi
:e.

'd to arraii^( a
)n^' statement,
than l*2(),0()(i.
ein«^ lessened.
I thi'ee month^
uian with a
if h(! saw that,

!if' would lose many men he should return, but would still . ^^^
•Xpert the £20,000; in fact, the only a«^reement lu;

would si^n would he to ^o in eommand t)f his own men
tor the sum of £20,000. lie then said to me, " It is to
I'livoio yon want to <^et the loads. I will take you
ther(! for .i*20,000 ; 1st, fjjuaranteeini^ to reach thenMii
six months from date of startin*^ : 2nd, ^uaranteein*^
[(Mvment of any loss of loads ; ord, ^uaranleein*^, after
delivery of loads at Kihero, to assist in ^ndinj^ Sfaidey.
Hoad hy Kassoni^o, 'ran«^anyika, and Fnyoro. Jn ease of
tiiidin*^ the kin«^s of I'nyoro and I'^^anda at war with
Diie another, I (cannot f^uarantee reaching Kihero." 1
ked him to think over evervthin<'. After dark Ik;

cairie to mv house

aiui we

had

•rferith

)nvate

interview. I told him that Mr. St.aidey's very last
orders on leavinj^ \'aml)uya wen; to follow on his load.
Major liarttelot had wiitlen to Mr. Markinnon to say
uc had «i;oiie on that road, and his intention hefore ho
was killed had been to continue on that road. The
icpU to oui' ttde^i'am could not ha\(? heen to j^o hy
;iii\ other route, or we shf)uld have; r(!ceived it. Mmin
Pasha's last statcmient was to llu- effect that, wcic Ik;
not so(ui iclieved, he would put himself at the head of
his men ami try aiKl ^et out to the Conj^o. I''inally, I
said that in the face of all this I could not adopt a m w
ite unless ordered to do so from home. 'lippu-Tih
said. "You ar(! ri<j;ht." I i\\v\\ said to him, "You cannot
'ict me a, head man to |)Ut over the Manyemas ; you

roi

\ouiseli sav vou will turn oar-k (should you ^o with iik'),
if aiiv serious loss is threateiK-d to your men ; the only
thin^ left for me to do now is to <^et a caiKx; at onc(3
and ^'o to liaii^^ala. If \ find tlK; reply fi'om the Com-
inittee to be ' t^o on at all ha/aifls,' I will return at oiku;
and start with vour iik'H myself If I find that it does
not tell me to <.^o on at all hazartls, I will serul Mr. W'arfl
with a telegram to liauaiia statinjj; my present position,

\oui' proposals, and askiu"^

for

orders.

In tl

lis f;ase

I told him, I should return with the steamer, whifdi
')ii;rlit to arrive in about a fort iii'^ht. 'rippu-Tib then
ii^nced to make his men at I'liaria carry all their loads to

Slnnlpy
FaiU.

1 "i

I ■'{

'! I

i^'

i.J l\

,1.1

lftft8.
AuL'iist 7.

Stanley
FuHh.

:]04

STOnV OF THE ItKAli COLUMN,

YaiTiif;ornl)i witli Mr. Hoiiny, and there to dismiss \\\> incn
to business close! hy, tliey Ix'iiiii; paid only for carrvipn to
Unaiia, and fVou) (Jnaria to \ anacoinhi, so t- tt in ( use
tliey w(!re recjuired aji^ain they eonld he cnlled to^r(.il,,.p
in two days' time. \U) also \\\r\'vv(\ to iind me ciuiocs
and m(Mi to <^o to Han^ala. One of my men told me
that it took Mr. W'aid n.\ diiNs and six nii^hts to reach
lianj^ala from Yalisula, and tliataftei' passin*^ the iinMitli
of the Aruuimi wo eoidd buy food at all villages.

yhff/H.sf 8/A. — 'ri|)pn-'rib the fii'st thin<^ this inorniiiir
told me he did not thiid\ he would havc^ the canoes
ready till to-morrow, so I told him if he did not it was
no us(! my f^oin*:;. II(; <^av(; m(> his word they would
b(! i(!ady. Reminded him about four times in the (la\.
(Ji()ss(;d over to the l>el;.'ian Station i)efoi'e l)real\liist to
ask Mons. JIaneuse to «^ive uw a letter to the captain
of the Sf((7il('ii, autliorisin*^ him, if I nH»t the steamer
within one day (;f l>an_L!;!da, to return (here with me,
and brini;' me up ajj^ain. IJaert told me that, aecfjidiiiii'
to the Stat(! laws, no /an/ibaris could hv. taken to
IJan^sda, for fear of their telling' the. Arabs the road. As
if this woidd affect them in the least should the Ara!)s
wish to <^o there! Mons. Ilaneuse was not in, so !
returned and \\i()te two iormal letters of a|)j)licatioii,
askinj:; him to let the /an/ibaris <2;o, and to write to the
captain of the Sfaulo/ foi- uu^ ; tof)k these ovei', and
Mons. Ilaneuse said lu^ wotdd i^ive me both tin; lettcis
I recpiiicd. Tippu-'ril) keej)s ;4;ettint>; in piec<!s of
l''iX|)(M!ition cloth from all over tlu^ country, 1I(! has at
last discovered the i('fuii;e of the runaway /an/ibaris,
vi/. Said bin ilabib's \illai!,(' behind ^atuka. ile lias
s(!nt men down there with the promise that tlu^y shall
recover a number before I leturii.

\Vi<lf Mr. Stanley's chai'^e of desertion ai^'aiiisf
Jam(>son, in ' Darkest Africa,' vol. ii. pa«i;(5 15 : — " Mi.
Jameson's hotter from Staidev Falls arrived. Thoivih

STAALh'y.S LhTTh'/i.

i'iOo

11^' this irioriiiiiir
i;iv(» tli(. caii.,,.^
<' Hid not ii u;iv
(m\ ihvy u,,i,|,|
UK'S i)i the (lii\.
\'o]v. hrcMklhst tO
■ to the (;;ij)r;iiii
'X't flic sUMincr
'Ik'I-c uirl) inc,

tllUt, iW,V.<)l(\\]\n-

tbo lottor st.'itcd ho juirposcrl to dcsr-cnfl to nan*;iila,
the messenger rcportc^d that lie was lik(;ly to procccMl
to liaiiaiia Point, but \vh(dli('r Haiiaiiu Point or IJan-
^rjila inattcrcMl \v.yy little. When he dcscciulcd frf)in
Stanley Falls, \w delibeiately sevenul himself from tho
Kxpedition, find no indueem(!nt woidd tempt mo to
remain in the neighbourhood of liaiialya ... I wrot(; a
letter, howevf^r, to Mr. Jameson, whenun I su^<^ested
that if he coidd mustei sixty men, and immediately
follow our bla/ed path, whicli was too broad To be mis-
taken, he ini«;ht easily overtake our lai<:;(^ column,
inarc'l in<^ in sinj^le tile thiou^h the; forest, alon<i; a road,
hristlinuf with obstacle; , of sloui^lis, marshes, creeks,
aiirl rivers . . . ."
Tlic letter itself is as follows : —

7.\) .]. S. Ja.mi:s(>.\.

Onf! MjiicIi ;i}iovc T)!iii!ilya.
' Au-ust, ;')0|,li, lH,sH. '

l)i:.\R Sir,

I know that Bonny lias written to you about mv
anival. so I inay be brief. Ariivin^ij at Hanalya ITlh
iiist. ! have becm l)usy ever sinc(^ reor^^anisin^]; the
I'Apedition, wliich I found to \h) in a terribh; stale.
To-day the second march from Hanalya has Ix^^im, and
we shall continue on. lionny showed me your letter of
the 12tli inst., wherein you statc^d it to be your purpose

to LfO

to I

iantraia

I cannot make out \\]\\ the Major, you, Troup, and
"Ward liavo been so (Icnicntcd — demented is th(^ word.
^{)\\ understand I'in*>;lish ; an Kn^lish letter of instruc-
tions was f^iven you. You said it was intelli<^nble — y(«t
foi some reason or another you have not followed one
paia^naph. You paid £1,000 to \f() on this Expedition ;
von hav(! voluntarily thrown \ our money a way by leavinij:
the I'iXpedition. W'ai'd is not a. wliit bett(M-; he lias
acted all throun-h, as \ hear, more like an idiot than a

sane
-lotl

^'ou have left me iiak(>d. I have

les, no rnediciiK

ill say nothing; of my soap

is:

^,„Jii,Lj|

!
1 .

t
1

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(

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SCO

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

and candles, photograph apparatus and chemicals, two
silver watches, a cap, and a score of otlier trifies, Vou
believed 1 was dead, yet you brought along my boots,
and two hats, and a flannel jacket. You believed the
Expedition had gone to Ujiji, yet you took Stairs' and
tlu; other officers' goods along. Is not this nitlier
inconsistent X

I shall proceed along the 8. bank of tlie river for
nearly two months, and then cross the river to the N,
bank, thence straight to the Nyanza. If you can briiif.
my kit with you, you are welcome to go on witl us ii
you can catch us up. Forty guns will take you aloiijr
safely to the point when we cross the river. Einiu
Tasha is quite well. All our officers Kfe well. Wo
have lost none. We have lost 50 per cent, of men. I
came from the Nyanza in eighty-t^^■o days, and imm
our fort in sixty-one days.

Our track will be quite clear, as a highway, two
marches from IJanalya, or, as you call it, I'naria, it will
be white all the way to the crossing. If you can rind
where we landed on the N. bank, — it will be one march
above Nepoko confluence with the Aruwimi, — you will
be able to follow us with 40 guns. Vs\i\\ less it would
be dangerous.

The plains are 25 marches from the crossing place.
Splendid game country, game of all kinds. I have left
all the officers at Fort Bodo, except Jephson, who is
with Emin Pasha.

Though, — as reported to me, — you and all of you seem
to have acted like madmen, — your version may modify
my opinion. Therefore I write this brief note to you in
the midst of bustle and hurry.

Yours truly,

(Signed) Henry M. Stanley.

Jameson never received this letter; it arrived after
his death and was sent home. Comment upon Mr.
Stanley's charge against Jameson, his description of
his own letter, and the letter itself, would be super-
fluous. — Ed.]

( -'^'T )

, liigliway, two
, Uiiaria, it will
If you can rind
1 be one inarch
nmi, — von will
li less it would

crossing place.

all of you seem
m may moditV
note to you in

M. Stanlky.

t arrived after
nit upon Mr.
description of
uld be super-

.^w* ,-"4 »

A Canoe Jouuney.

C^HAPTEll X.

AuGi'ST 9th to August 18th,
Last Jouriiev. — Mr. Ward's diary.— Death.

August ^th. — Left Stanley Falls for Bangala. Did not 1888.
get away until nearly mid-day, one canoe not arriving "^"^^ '
until very late. Started with six Zanzibaris, two boys,

! I \

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i ^

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■

k f) *

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tMili't'-l

infflf!

^TiTW

1 ^l'

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August 9.

Last
Journey.

! ; :

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SG8

ISTUlil' OF Till': liKAR COLUMN.

Faraiii, fouitcHMi Wiigaiiias, and two of Tippu's mon in
char^o. 'rii)i)u-Tih i)romiso(l ma that everytliinjjr would
be rifjjlit at llnaria. Muni Hamcla and Salem Musiuli
IcNivo for tlioro to-morrow, T am sending; Honny two
sacks of rice and twenty fowls. I liad to write letfcis
from Tippu-Tib to Mr. (Treshoff, iirginfj; liim to (;ome up
without delay, as there was a great quantity of ivorv.

Ai(f/Ksf \y)fh, Fi'fihff/. — Reached the Tjumami Rivor
at daybreak. I was fri«^htfully seedy, having cau^lit
cold inside after a big dose of medicine. Anotlior
delay here. One of the canoes I bought from Tippu
leaked so much that 1 had to exchange it foi- one from
Racliid. A great quantity of ivory arrived for liim, and
he could attend to nothing. Had the two canoes laslicd
together at last and four days' food on board, and started
early in the afternoon.

fl'

I: ,■
I'

i !

Au(/usf 11^//, Satmulaj/. — After a long night's Avork
found ourselves ])ast the Annvimi in the mornini;'.
The natives told us to-day, a long way below the mouth
of the Aruwimi, that the Tamba-Tambas had killed a
tremendous number of them on the soutli bank. This
is where Rachid's enormous lot of ivory came from tliat
I saw arrive yesterday. 1 had the greatest difficulty
all day in quieting the natives, who thought we w(mo
more Tamba-Tambas, and had to sit in the sun all dav
to let them see me, and speak with them. They aro
perfectly mad.

Au(/ttst 12th, Snnda?/. — Got through the worst of tlio
natives durinj? the niciht. One verv curious scen(\
Shot out of an open reach — fine clear night — into a
dark narrow channel, not more than forty yards wide.
All at once it became lit up with dozens of fires on
both sides, throAving a bright light back into the forest
and across the water. We glided on Avithout a sound
from lis but the zip-zip of the paddles, drums beatin<i.
horns blowing, shouts and cries on every side, the
white loin-cloths of our men show^ing plainly who

DIARY.

369

10 worst of tlio
curious scene.

they wore. Down tliis lano of tiros v;nd noiso wo wont if'RR.

for noarly Haifa niilo, \\\\v\\ suddenly it o])onod out into ^"^"*^ ^^

a ^^land open roacli of tlio rivor on our ri^ht, \\\v fin^s, journey.

drums, (Jcc, ^oin«jf on for more than a niilo away down on

our loft. I don't think 1 oxer lu^ard such a noiso l)oforo.

Wo shot out away to our ri«>:lit, and soon loft all the

tumult hohind. What they thouf^ht of us I should like

to know. Tliis inornin<if wo passed a village, which one

of my men tolls mo it took thorn throe days to reach

from Ban^ala in the steamer A. I. A. II(m-o the natives

came out in crowds, without spears or anythin<jf, and wore

wisliin<2^ to sell us everythin<if they had. Passed throe

lar<io villa<i;os before sunset, but there was a strong

li{>ad wind the whole day, which knocked us back

frightfully.

This vivid sketch of the weird nifjfht scene on the river
was the last pencilled entiy over made in his diary by
Jamos(m. The chill which ho had contracted on the 10th
August rapidly developed into hiematuric fever, and,
altliough he made no complaint and wrote bravely as
ever, he was then fightin<i; his last battle with death.
Unable to take nourishment of tlio coarse description
which his Zanzibaris could oft'er him, he touched
nothing for all the days of the weary voyage, save one
or two bananas and a cup of soup made from goat's
flesh. During the 11th and 12th, though able to write
short pencil notes in his pocket-book, ho was gradually
sinking. For the next throe days he lay dying in the
(anoo, with not a soul to help him, and could only
murmur, "• Quick ! paddle quick," to his men, who
night and day paddled on down the mighty rivor,
striving to reach Hangala in time to save their master's
life. They reached it on the 16th, and Mr. Ward, who
the day before had received the sad news of Major
Barttelot's murder, was summoned hurriedly to the
canoes, and lifted out the aljjiost lifeless body of his

dying comrade.

H>'

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frif

870

nTuin' OF Till-: hi: Mi column.

TuE House in which Mk. Jameson died at TIvnoala.

ill
u

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18SR.
August lt'»

liangala.

\-^'r

Tho followin*;' notos of tlic }w\t two days arc tiikcn,
by kind ])orniission, from Mr. NN'ard's diary: —

Au(p(st MSth. — Wo carviod him up into Van KcMck-
hoven's room ; ho did not roc'o«j;nizo me. I took his
hand, his eyes were lialf (dosed, and his skin a '•linstly
yeUow coh)ur. . . . Wlien laid on the bed, he re^ainod
consciousness, and said, "Oil, Ward, is that you ?" and
asijain became insensible. With the aid of my /anzi-
bari servant Msa, I bathed him carefully in warm wator
. . . after which he brightened u]), and took some
Madeira and chicken sou]). Tie said that he had had
an awful jounu y down from Stanley Falls, exposed to
tornadoes of wind and rain, lying helpless in the caiioo.
Being too feeble to converse, he only made occasional
remarks about his illness. He once said, " You know.
A^^ard, if I could only get a square show at this sick-
ness, I should be all right." He slept fairly well during
the night, but had several attacks of spasms. I
remained beside him all night.

! *

UMI^.

AT n.VNOALA.

1) (lays aro tiikc^n,
liary : —

into Van Kcrrk-
me. I took liis
lis skin a i;ii;istly
bed, he V{>i>aiiu>(l
< tliat you I " and
lid of my Zanzi-
y in warm watof

and took sonic
hat lie had had
''alls, ex]iosed to
ess in the canoo.
made occasional
lid, " You know,
low at this sick-
airly well during

of spasms. I

^,i.,-ijBiUi

:V'^.

iViX

.K%

^1
of

1)1 AUV.

373

Aiffpixf \lfh. — His j)iilsc was t'cchlr, and he could

not rctniii Ins senses

tor

more tliaii a minute or t\\o.

and eonld oidy lake a spoonfid of soup at lon«j; intervals.
Kveiy (|Uiiit(M' of an hour or so, lie came to, and, with
.. taint smile of recognition, stretclu'd out his hand and
(•]iis|»(mI mine, as if hy so doinjj; he steadied his n(»rves,
and lookinj;" at me oncse, he said, '" N'on re so well and
clciiu-lookinjj: that it does me <j^oo(l to look at you."
His reply to almost every (piestion was a feehle "S|)lcn-
,l| did!" and to incpiiries ai)out liis condition, "Oh!
in-ti-nitidy better," hut so feeble, and sucli an effort to
utter it, that he relapsed after eveiy answer into un-
consciousness.

1 I'.M. I asked biiti just now if lie was
'• No, old chap, no |>ain, oidy tired — Oh! so tired. I
think it's time to turn in ; it's so daik — so tired," and
a<iain l)ecanie unconscious. — M i'..\i. I have «^iven iiim
nourishment u])on every occtasion, but he does not rally,
and only t»ets feebler. — (i r..M. Daruru and 1 put hot

m any pain

brick

)1(1.

ks round him, as his extremities have <^rown co
lie i>Tows w(;aker and weak(M\ The drums just now
sounded to knock off work in the Station, he opened
his eyes and stared at me, clutchin<i; my hands, and
said, with a husky voice, " AN^ird ! Ward! they're
cominj;- ; listen ! " (and as the drums rumbled in the
distance), '"Yes! they're coming- — now let's stand to-
gether." He was tliinkini>- of the drums calling the
savaji'es to fii>ht him, uhile he drifted down the river

j)as

t th

le villages.

7.20. His pulse <;t()Ws weaker and weaker, — 7. .50. As
1 sup})orted him to administer brandy, he drew a long
breath, and his pulse stopj)ed.

AiK/Kst ISf/i. — I walked about until daylight cpiite
beside myself witli sadness, , , , My "Union Jack"
covered the coflin, which was borne to the canoe by
four lloussa soldiers, and we all proceeded across the
river in the early morning, without a sound but the
vsplashing of the paddles. Upon arriving at the opposite

IHHS.
Aiiu'iiHt 17.

Ituii)jiila,

1 i

III f!' -.i^l

IhE

-ftl

874

s'rony or the uhau ('<hmm\.

IHHM slioro, we l)()r(» the coffin to the «;ravc, aiul I n-iiil .,
iiuii iiiu '■'•"P*'''' '•'""' •'"' ''i'*!*'- Ills rcstiiiij-plucc IS ill ill,.
foot of a ^iaiit cotton tree, on tlic island i)p[)()sit(»
lian«^ala, one tliousand miles from the seu.

PHOIoaKAPH OF GRAVa

1 1 '

' i

"MY J USTlFf CATION;"*

THE LIGHT OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA."

Hi.iiiiiii.v vi,ri:uKii I'KoM

"TIIK I.KJIIT OP AHFA."

(Witli ApolonicM to Sir I'lnwtN AuNdi.D.)

Utitn thil
Cnmo r, nnd unto tliiH ull iiifilils tind (l;iy«
Have led iiK- ; for I ciiiiiiot l<>tul that lit'o
Wliioli limy be inifK^— ii lifo of fiiipiy pleasure
"NVIiich elofjs tlici littlo wpirit still within mi).
My (lavH uliall not roll on with rvcn wheels
From month to mojith, and year U> yi'iir, till death
Ends the whole record of my name : 1 cIiooko
Another life, to which that spirit leadH me,
Mnkiii<i;the dust my l)e(l, the loneliest, wastes
^ly dwellinj;, and the meanest men my males ;
(/'hid in no woven j^urhs that mashers wear,
Fed witli no savoury meats from cooks of France,
Mazed with no wino, sheltered hy no moro pomp
Than the thin canvas or the jiin};le bush.
]Iow hath it steaded men to live and think
Ot'dininj!;, drinkinji;, sport, and lovely women,
To dross themselves for empty show, to rear
The Htately house, to feed their so-called fiiends
And list to empty words of flattery
Ascendin}? day by day like wasted smoke?
Hath any of my town friends 'scapjjd thereby
The slow dull sinkinj; into withered age? —
Lifi;hted by no lirij^dit thoufjjhts of times }j;one by,
Jkit sick to deutli of every iWm<!; they see,
Filled with cravings for some pleasures now
Which have their end in the old mockeries !

* Written by Jmiiesou in a letter diitccl Yiiinbuya Cuiiip, June 8th. IRP*' — Ed.

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376 STOltr OF THE It EAR COLUMN,

Truly, it may be some of thorn are good—

And evil some, but all in action weak :

Both pitiful and pitiless, and all

Without a past to dwell upon when tlwy

Can no more lead that life which ia their being.

Man is not put upon this earth to live,

And spend, what others toil to nuike, on pleasures :

There must be work, there must be work for all.

What good gift have my broHiers, but it came

From search and strife, and loving sacrifice ?

If one, then, being rich and fortunate,

Young, dowered with health and ease, trom birth designed

To live, if he would live, just as he chose —

If one not tired with life's long day, but glad

I' the fresliness Gi its morning, one not cloyed

With love's deliciotis feasts, but hungry still —

If one not worn and wrinkled, sadly sage,

But joyous in the glory and the grace

Of livin*? here below, with loving wife,

A little child, and many many friends —

If such a one, having so much to leave,

Left all, going forth to do some work

He felt was noble, and he fitted for,

Surely, at last, far off, sometime, somewhere.

His recompense would come, and he would meet

His death with no regrets for deeds not done !

( •i1> )

* ' ■

1 1

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1 ■?'■

APPENDIX I.

i: It-

Cnnfrarf between

I, Jamks S. Jameson, asroo to accompany the Emin PHvUia
Relict" Expedition, and place myself under the command of
Mr. H. M. Stanley, tlie leader of the Expeditioii, and to
accept any post or position in that Expedition ivhich he may
assign to me.

I further a<j,re(; to serve him loyally and devotedly, to ohey
all his orders, airJ to use my utmost endeavours to bring the
Expedition to a ^uccessful issue.

1 also agree to pay the sum of One Thousand Pounds to the
crcilit of the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition at Messrs. Ransomc,
Bouvcric, and Sims, No. 1 Pall Mall, and to pay expenses of
my passage from and to England, and to forfeit the above
mentioned sum of .CI, 000 if I leave the Expedition through
sickness or mv own free will.

For the above I am to receive a due share of the Etiropcau
provisions provided for the Expedition, and also a share of
native provisions purchased in the country ; also 1 Winchester
Ritie and 1 Revolver, with ammunition for the same.

1 also undertake not to publish unytliirg connected with the
Expedition, or to send any account to the newspapers, for six
months after the issue of the official publication of the Expe-
dition by the leader or his rei)resentative.

{Sii/ned) JAMES S. JAMESON.

Approved,
HENRY M. STANLEY,

Jau. 20th, 1887.

,r , fV. UE WlNTON, Col.

LV>ILLIAM bloi'FMANN,

i Ir Pi

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if'

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1 MM.L.A

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HTUltr OF THE HE AH COLUMN.

APPKNDIX II.

• ) 'I

• l

r,ll^i I

Copy of Letter of fnstrt/c/ions from Mr. Stanley, ComiiKindhyn
Expedition, to Major Harttklot.

Major iJaittclot's Appointnu^nt as Coniinander of Stockaded
Camp at Yambuya Village, Aruwiini Rapids.

June •J4tli, J887.
To Major Bartfelot, S^c. 6;c. ^c.

SiK,

As tho scmior of those officers accompanying mo on tlio
I'^min Paslia lielief Expedition, the ('ommaiid of this iiiiportant
l*ost naturally devolves upon you. It is also for the interest
of this l']x|)edition tliat you accept this (.'onunand, from the
fact that your Soudaiuisc (company being only soldiers, and
more eapa})le of garrison duty than the Zanzibaris, will be
l)etter utilized liere than on the road.

The steamer Stanley left Yaml)uya v)n the 22nd of this
month for Stanley Pool. If slic meets vvitli no mischance, sjie
ouglit to b(! at Lt'opoldville on the 2nd July. In two davs
more she will be loaded with about 500 loads of our goods
Avliieh were left in charge of Mr. .1. \l. Troup. This gentleman
will embark, and on the lib July I assume that the Stau/ci/
will conimcnce the; ascent of tlie river and arrive at liolobo oti
the Uth July. Fuel being ready, tlu; 12o men in charge of
]Vr(;ssrs. AVai'd and IJonny, now at Holobo, will embark, and the
steamer will continue lii'r journey. She will be at liangala on
the lyth July, and arrive on the .'Jlst July. Of course the
lowness of the river in that month may delay her a few dnys,
but having great confidence in her Captain, you may certainly
expect her before the 10th August.

It IS the non-arrival of these goods which comjjcls me to
ap|)oint you as (yonnnandant of this Post. Hut as J shall
shortly expect the arrival of a strong re-inforeemcnt of men,
gicatly exceeding the Advance Force, which must at all hazards
push on to the rescue of En)in Pasha, I hope you will not he
detained longer than a few days after the departure of the
Stanley on her final return to Stanley Pool in August.

Meantime, pending the arrival of our men and goods, it

UMN.

,NLEY, Cnmmanffinq

LOT.

ndcr of Stockaded
ipids.

June 24tli, J887.

)anying mc on the
d of this important
io for the interest
onirnaiid, from the
only .sol(li(!rs, and
Zanzilmris, will be

the 22nd of this

: no misehanci', siic

uly. In two days

loads of our j^'oods

». This f,'ontl(Miiaii

e that the Stau/cy

rrive at liohjho on

ni{;n in charge of

II em hark, and the

l)(! at JJangala on

•. Of eonrs(! the

ly lier a few duys,

you may certainly

eh compels me to
Hut as J shall
forcemcnt of men,
nust at all hazards
-e you will not he
de])arturc of the
n August,
leu and goods, it

AP/'/:.\D/.\ If.

87'J

nclioves yon to bo very alert and wary in the Command of this

Stockaded Camp. Though the Camp is favourably situated and

naturally strong, a brave enemy would find it no difficnilt task

to capture if the Commandant is lax in discipline, vigour, and

riiergy. Therefore I feel sure that I have mad(; a wise choice

in scl('(;ting y(m to guard our interests hen* during our absence.

The interests now entrusted to you are of vital im[)ortanee to

this Exf)edition. The men you will eventually have under you

consist of more than an entire .3rd of the Flxpedition. The

croods that will be brought up are the; currency niHuhid for

transit through the regions beyond the Lak(;s; there will be a

vast store of ammunition and provisions, which an; of ecjual

imiiortanee to us. The loss then of these; men and goods

would be certain ruin to us, and the Adva^jce Force would need

to solicit relief in its turn. Therefore, wtigh.ng this matter

well, I hope you will spare no pains to maintain order ami

discipline in your (^amp and make your defences complete, and

keep them in such a condition that however brave an eiumiy

may be lie can make no impression on them. For this latter

purpose I would recommend you to make a ditch of ft. wide

'5 ft. deep, leading from the mitural ditch where the spring is

roimd the Stockade;. A platform like that on the Southern

side of the Camp, constructed near the Eastern as well as the

Western (Jatc, would be of advantage to the strength of the

(.'amj). For remember it is not the nativ(;s alone who may

wish to assail you, but the Arabs and their followers may

through SOUK! cause or other (juarrel with you and assail your

(.'amp. Our course from here will be true East or by Magnetic

Compass East by S. as near as possible. Certain marches

that we may take may not (ixactly lead in the direction aimed

at, nevertheless it is the South-west corner of Lake Albert,

near or at Kavalli, that is oui destination. When we arrive

there we will form a strong (Jamp in tluj neiglil)ourhood, laurudi

oui' boat and steer for Kibero, in Unyoro, to hear Irom Signor

('asati, if there, of the coiuli»,'on of lunin Pasha. If the latter

is alive and in the neighbourluiod of the Lake;, we shall eom-

iininicate with him, and our alter conduct must be guided by

what wc! 1( arn of the intentions of Emin Pasha. We may

') (' 9

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syony of r/n.' hI'Iah coij mn.

sisMiino tli:it \\v shall not he loiiji'cr than ii rortnijiht with lij,^
Im^Ioi-c (Iccidiii^ on onr n'tiirn towards this Camp alon-r tlic
satnc ront(! travcrscMl In ns when goiii}^ {"last.

We will cndcavonr, by hla/iii^ trees and <'nttiii<r sapiin-rv,
ahmjr f)iir road, to leave suilicient traces of the route taken hv
US. \V( sliall always take by prererenoe tracks leadinji^ cast-
wards. At alt erossways, where paths int<'rseet, we shall hoc
uf) and ni.ike a hole a lew inches deep across all paths not used
by MS, b(!sides blaziii}; tr(;es when possible.

It may happen, shonld Tippn-Tib have sent the I'idl ninnlicr
ol" adidts |iromiM'd by him to me, viz., (JOO men (able to carrv
loads), and Ihe Sltmlvy has arrived safely witli the I J.'") hkh
Jeft by me at Holobo, that yon will feci yourscll' snirieiciitiv
competent to nninjh the; colnmn, with all tin; p;(.o(ls bron^iit hv
tiu; H'Idiilnj and tliose lel't by u\v. at Vambnya, alonjf the roail
jmrsniMl l)y me. In that e\ent, which would be very desirahic,
you will follow closely our route, and Ixif'on; many days we
should most jissnrcdly mccst. No <loid)t you will find our
bonias intact and standiu};;, and you should endeavour to niaki
vour marches so that vou could utilize; thes(; as vou njarclicd
iJctter j;iii(les than these ])omas of our route (rould not he
made. 11 vou do not mc(!t them in the course of two (lavs'
ma)(;h, yon may I'cst assured that you are not on our route.

It may hap|)en, also, that although 'i''ppu-Tib has scjit some
men, he has not s( nt eiiouf^h men to carry the goods with yoiii
own force. In that case, of course you will use; your disenition
as to what goods you can dispense with to (UiabU; you to mareli.
Vor this purj)ose yon should stiuly your list atteutivcily.

1st. yVmmuuition esp(uially fixed is most important.

2nd. Beads, brass wire, and cowries rank next.

8rd. Private; iMggage;.

4th. Powder and ca|)s.

nth. I'luropean provisions.

Gth. lirass rods as used on the Congo.

7th. Provisions (rice, beans, peas, nu;ttammeh,l)iscuits).

Therefort! yon luust consider after those, sacking, tools,

such as shovels (never discard an axe or a bill-hook), how

many sacks of provisions you can distribute among your men

I |.i

IMN.

roi'tninlit witi, ]|j,„

S C!iril|) Illoil^r tl|(.

(1 CUttillf,' S;i|)|i,|^rv

llic route taken l)v
racks lea(liii<r (.;,st.
(M-MU't, we shall ||,„.
s all patlis not used

lit the full iiiimhcr
men (ahle to earrv
witli the llir, uicii
•ourseir sudieicutlv
e floods brought hy
i}'a, aloiifr the roiuj
1 Ik; very desirahlc,
[>r(! maiiv days we
you will find our
endeavour to uiak(
e as you niarclicd.
)utc could not be
)urse ol" two days'
t on our route.
rib has sent some
le goods with your
ISC y()urdiser(;tioii
il)lc you to niareli.
ittciitiv(!ly.
lost important,
uik next.

am moll, biscuits).
., sacfkinj;, tools,
bill-hook), how
iniong your hkmi

AI't'l'LSDlX 11.

;]8]

toonal)le yon to march, — whotber half of tbo brass rods in your
1h)X('s could not go also, and tliei'c stop. If you still (jannot
iiiiireh, then it would be Ixittcr to make mantlies of (J miles
t\vic(! over, if you prefcM* marching to staying for our arrival,
tjiaii throw too many things away.

With tbo Stniili'i/s final departure! from Yambuya, you
>|i()ul(l not fail to s(;nd a re|)()rt to .Nfr. William Mackinnon, of
limy, Dawes, and ('o., I. '5 Austin i'^riars, London, of what has
jiappencid at your Oamp in my abscjnec;, of wIkmi 1 started away
I'lastward ; wbctluir you have; beard of or from me at all ; when
vou do exp(!ct to bear, and what you |)ropos(; doing. You should
also send bim a true copy of tbis ord(!r, that tin; Relicsf Com-
mittee may jndgc! for themselves whether you have acted or
purpose to act judiciously.

Your present garrison shall (;onsist of eighty rifles, and from
forty to fifty supciiiumcraries. The Stnnictj is to bring you,
within a few w(!eks, fifty more rifl(!s and sev(Mity-five super-
numeraries under Miissrs. Troup, Ward, and IJonny.

I associate Mr. J. S. Jameson with you at jircscnit. .M(!ssrs.
Trouj), Ward, and iJonny will submit to your authority. In
the ordinary duti(;.s of tbe defence and conduct of the ('amp or
of the march, tber(! is only one cbi(!f — which is yourself; but
should any vital st(!|) be proposed to be taken, I beg you will
take the voice of M r. Jameson also ; and wb(!n Messrs. Troup
and Ward are lujre pray admit tinun to your confidence and l(!t
thorn speak freely their opinions.

1 think 1 have written very clearly upon vsverytbing that
strikes me as n(u;essary. Your trciatment of the nativ(\s, I
suf^gest, should dep(!iul entirely upon tluMr (;oiulu<!t to you. If
they do not tuolest you, suller them to return to the neigh-
bouring villages in peace ; and if you can in any manner, by
moderation, small gifts o(!easionally of brass rods, &c., hasten
an amicable intercourse, 1 should recommend your doing so.
Lose no opportunity of gaining all kinds of information
rosi)ecting the natives, the position of the various villages in
your neighbourhood, &e., &c.

1 have the botjour to be.

Your obedient servant,
{Si(/m'd) IIENUY M. STANLEY,
Comnir. Expedition.

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382

STOIil' OF THE REAR COLUMN,

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APPENDIX III.

Extract from a Letter to Andrew Jameson-, Esq.

Entrenr'u'd fanip,

Yaiubuya, Aruwimi Kapids,

Aug. 7tl,, i,<87^

Having quoted Mr. Stanley's letter of instructions to .Major
Barttclot, Jameson goes on to say : —

" Well, suppose the Stanley arrived here on the lOtli ot
August, and Ti|)pu-Til)'s nrju were liere (which they are not
yet), and we started, say on the 17th, and did ten miles a duv
(Mr. Stanley only proposed doing twelve on his forced march
when he left us). We have, rouglily speaking, 400 miles to
do, and it would take us forty days, or until the 1st OctoluM-,
giving us four days for delays. Say we started for Zanzibar
in a fortnight, or the 14th October, and it takes us six momlis
to reach Zanzibar, that would be the 14th April ; tlnn
supposing all these things hapjicned quite smoothly, 1 should
get home by June in next year, or, "if we missed the mail at
Zanzibar, July. Again, if Tippu-Tib's people do not turn up
(which I shall knoAV before this letter leaves, as if they do nut
come before then, there is little chance of tlieir coming at all),
— in that case we should have to wait here until late in
November or the beginning of December, when Mr. Stanley
would return with his men from Lake Albert to help us carryall
the goods up there. (He will start to return here in any case,
as he cannot know whether Tippu's people have come or not ;
if they have, we sludl meet him on the road, and he will turn,
and we will all go on together.) Say we could leave here by the
middle of December, and reach the Lake in the first week of
February, leaving the Lake finally in the third, week of that
month, we should reach Zanzibar in the third week of August,
and get home in October. In neither of those cases, with oi
without Tippu-TiVs men, have I allowed any tinve for his
exploration of Lake Muta Nzige. He himself, I believe, thinks
we may be home any time between June and September next
year. However, there is one thing certain, that I cannot he

that I cannot he

APPENDIX III.

383

home before June in next year in any case. As rcffanls
iiiysolf, the whole trip has been a vast sell. I have not had a
uinfflc chance the whok' time of collecting, drawing, or doing
anything but the duties ol" a slave-driver. I have never been
on any trij) which was so much like a funeral : no fun, all damp-
ness, and this is greatly owing to Stanley himself, for no matter
how hard you work, or how well you do a thing, you get no
thanks, no encouragement, no cheery words, nothing but blame
and hard words, from him. I know, to give the devil his due,
that his anxiety and worry of mind, besides the immense
amount of things he has to think about, are immense, but he
oufi'lit not to be so single-minded and visit it upon us poor
devils. One cannot help admiring the man for his tremendous
strength of will, and power of overcoming all difficulties, also
for his great pluck, but he is a man one could never make a
friend of. My time here has been the happiest I have had
«ince leaving Banana, for the Major and I pull well together,
and I am gradually getting over the feeling I had of bitter
disappointment at being left here. The natives have only
killed one man (one of the Soudanese), whom they stabbed
with a spear in the stomach. We have had eight deaths from
sickness, however, and a good many more are little better than
dead. It is not easy, with not a single thing to cheer one, to
pick up when you are low, after a dose of fever, but, thank
Heaven, I do not have one often. I had one bad dose whilst
shooting hippos, for I had to spend the whole day in a broiling
suu, partly on the water and partly on sand-banks, all the
time without a bit of shade, and sleep in a swamp at night.
This fever kept coming back to me for some time, but at
present I am in splendid health, and when marching I am
always well. I think Barttelot and I were the only two who
were not sick for a single day on the whole march from
Matadi to Stanley Pool. There is a comic side to everything
however, and I have often laughed heartily since at what
annoyed me most at the time. . . .'

}

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STOIW OF THE ItKyiR COLUMN.

APPENDIX IV

Entrenched Camp,

Yanibiiya, Ariiwimi I^iror,
\w\t. loth, l^.-.;.
Dear Mr. T?ates,

1 am sorry to tell you tliat all my dreams of col.
lecting have proved only dreams .after all, for my duties
liave been such that they entirely stopped all my rhanccs of
collectinij. I have, however, picked up a few butterflios*^
which 1 hope will interest Lepidopterists, and which I will ask
you to be kind enougli to keep for me until my return, win n
we will have a long chat about them, and when I will ])riii;r
you the notes in my Diary about them. Please be careful to
keep the numbers aud letters on each paper attached to the
butterflies, as they correspoiul to the numbers in my Diary.
L. C. stands for Lower Congo, U. C. for Upper Congo, and A.
for Aruwimi II. In my Diary of course I have the localities
much more clearly specified. I am awfully disappointed with
the beetles, having heard so much about the wonderful quantity
and quality in the regions of the Congo. I unfortunately
found on putting spirits into the zinc bottles which I boujiht
in London that they leaked and were of no use. Luckily 1
had a large silver flask with me which holds a quart ; this I
filled with spirits which a Dutch gt.ntleman at Kinshassa was
kind enough to give me, and have been popping a beetle into
it every now and again ever since. When I get home, I will
hand over to you all its treasures. I have really had no
chance whatever of collecting, as I will show you by my Diaiy
when I get back. I certainly did expect a little sport, but
that also has proved a myth. Mr. Stanley would not allow
me a single extra carrier to take my collecting things, aud tlit;
consequence was I had to give away all my pipes, tobacco, and
lots of clothes, and take the smallest possible quantity of any-
thing in order to carry the few things I did. It was rather
hard lines on me, as the other officers of course had to carry
nothing of the kind. Some of the butterflies are very beau-
tiful, but I was rather disappointed with the scarcity of new

* This collection was entrusted to Messrs. F. D. Godmon aud O. Salvin
for deterniiuation.

AITKSDIX r.

880

jpecios here differing from those on tlic Congo. You must
tell me a lot about both the beetles and butterflies when we
meet, which will certainly not be before June or July at the
fHrliest. The few specimens of birds I got, I have sent to
Mr. Bowdler Siiarpe, of the Natural History Museum, South
Kensington. You may imagine that if it was difficult to
folloct butterflies and beetles, how much more so it was to
(ollcct birds. How often, when toiling along and driving the
Zanzibaris with their loads, like slaves, I have seen gorgeous
si|)ccimens of all sorts of insect and bird life, .and not been
able to stir one foot out of the way to gather them. Please
tell Mr. Sclater when you see him that I have not seen a single
antelope of any kind, and no game except hippopotami. As
far as I can sec, there will be no better chance between this
and Zanzibar. It will be one long time of driving niggers
and their loads, and the only thing one does collect at that
game is a bad temper. By the time you get this I suppose
you will have seen all Mr. Stanley's report of our progress so
far, but I hope to have many pleasant talks with you about it
all. T am sending the butterflies home with Mr. Walker, the
engineer of the Expedition, who is going straight home, as,
thank goodness, we have now done with the steamers. I must
now say good-bye, as the steamer leaves to-morrow, and I have
a large number of letters still unwritten. Trusting to find you
none the worse for the liorrible winter I hear you have had,

I remain, sincerely yours,

{Sipied) JAMES S. JAMESON.

APPENDIX V.

Letter of Instructions from Major Barttelot.

Cauip, Yambuya Village,

To Mr. Jameson,

Aruwimi Falls,
Aug. 19th, 1887.

Sir,

I' '•

I i.

Owing to information received, I have determined to

jii,^]

Imm

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i'!i

380

STOnr OF 77/ A' JtKAH CO/MMX.

hcnd you with a party of these Arabs of Tippu-Tib's, wh,,
have tlieir camp above us, to the Stanley Falls, Congo, wlu'ic
Tippu-Tib iu)\v is.

'Hie object for which I am sending you is this : tliut
having ascertained that through an error the men did not
eomc here, you will inform Tippu-Tib that we arc still licre
and that if Tippu-Tib is still willing, and will allow the men
to come without delay, the agreement of Zanzibar will still
hold good.

Vou, and you alone, will hold speech with Tippu-Tib-
Mr. Ward, who accompanies you, being solely as a witness.

Vou will take Bartholomew as an interpreter, and will use
him and no otlier, more especially Salem. Should Tippu-Tib
allow the men to go, you and Mr. Ward will wait at the
Falls till such time as the men start, when you will start with
them. After one day's march out, you will send Mr. Ward on
ahead with orders to proceed to this Camp with all dispatch •
you yourself accompanying tlie men to this Camp.

By Mr. Ward you will send me a letter of what you have
done.

It may be that you come across the Arabs intended for us
on, your way to the Falls, in which event you will ask them
whether they are willing to come back at once, but do not try
to coerce them. Should they be willing to come back at once,
there will be no necessity for your going to the Falls ; aud
you and Mr. Ward will accompany them back, and, as iu
the former case, after one day's march, you will send
Mr. Ward on, with all dispatch, with a letter. Should they
not be willing to come, or say they will come shortly, you will
go on to the Falls aud acquaint Tippu-Tib of their whereabouts,
as it may aid him to collect them. Remember 600 men, able
to carry loads, is the number. In either the former or the
second case, you will inform Tippu-Tib, or the men, that the
powder and the caps are here ; the Arabs who are with you
having had ocular demonstration of it.

Should your mission be unsuccessful, you will, after resting'
yourselves and Arabs, come back here without delay.

Hemember that expedition is all to us, and use all your

j)^;)-;

AHl'h'MJJX VI.

38:

fndciivours, sliould you obtain the men, to proceed with all
jpt'ud to this (/Uiup. Do not force thcrn, but persuiuh;.
I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient servant,

EDMUND M. BARTPKLOT, Major,
Commanding Camp, Yambuya Village, Aruwimi FalU.

APPENDIX VI.

Camp, Yaiiibuva Village,

Aruwimi Falls,

Aug. MHIi, 1887.

To SuEiK Hamed bin Mahommed, my Friend,

I, Major Barttelot, sending greeting, knowing that you
are willing to aid Mr. Stanley in his expedition, and that it
was through error that the 600 men you liad already sent
did not come here to me, but turned back, thinking we had
gone away, I venture to solicit your aid by asking you to send
me the 600 men back again.

The powder and caps are liere, and we are all ready to-
start.

I have sent Mr. Jameson in my place, as I could not come
myself; indeed, I am far from well, Iiaving had but little to
eat, and suffering from fever.

It was through your Arabs that we heard of the mistake,
and it is they who have undertaken to escort Mr. Jameson and
Mr. Ward to you, for wl ich they shall be amply repaid.

Trusting you are in good health, also S leik Selim Mahommed,
to whom I send greeting, and that you will do me the honour
to accept the small present I am sending you by Mr. Jameson,

I am your faithful friend,
{Siyiied) EDMUND M. BARTTELOT, Major.

1' .1;

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388

M ■

STOHV Of'' THK UK Alt COLUMS,

AIM'KNDIX VII.

Agri-eifH'Htu between Muni Somai and
Majoii Harttklot,

{

Mk. Jamksom.
I.

Stanlpy Fnlls

May -Mill, 1,^.
I, tlic undcrsignod, Mmii Somai, lioreby agree for the? sum of
£1,000 (one thousand pounds sterling), (KK) dollars or £120
(one Imndrcd and twenty pounds sterling) to be ])aid to m,-
iu goods of that value before our departure from V'anihtiva
Camp, to faithfully serve Major Barttelot in my eapacity of t\w
commander of the 4(X) men supplied to the Emin Pasha Udicf
Expedition by Sheik Ilaraed bin Mahommed, and to accom-
pany liim with these men as far as Wadelai, or whatever placo
short of that it may be necessary for Major Barttelot to go to in
his quest of Emin Pasha and Mr. Stanley, and to return from
thence with the aforesaid men with him (Major Barttelot), or
whatever white officer he may appoint, by the nearest route
to the territory of Sheik Ilamed bin Mahommed after ho,
Major Barttelot, considers his relief of Emin Pasha oi
Mr. Stanley, or both, to have been accomplished ; and I also
agree, in ease of Major Barttelot being rendered incapable of
continuing his command, to fulfil all the above condition?,
under whatever white officer he. Major Barttelot, may appoint.

«. . /HAMED BIN MAHOMMED.
^^^"^nMUNI SOMAI.
Witnessed,

("Edmund Barttelot.
CJames S. Jameson.

II.

Stanley Falls.

May 24lh, 1888.
We, the undersigned, Major Barttelot, Commander llcar-guard
of the Emin Pasha Relief E.vpedition, and Mr. James S.
Jameson, officer of the same, hereby agree to pay to Muni
Somai the sum of £1,000 (600 dollars of which sum to be paid

.Ml

ArrtisDix vm.

889

;i)liinj in ^onds of that value Ix'foro our (lopftrturc from Yam-

iiyu ('ain|)) under the following conditions : —

That he, Muni Somai, faithfully nerves and o^eys Major
lllarltelot, in Ids (Muni Somai's) capacity of leader of the 400
,11(11 supplied by Sheik Ilanied bin Mahoninied to the Kmiu
Piisha Helief Expedition, and to acconipany him with these men
lioWadclai, or whatever place short of that he. Major Barttelot,
may have to j^o to in his (juest of Emin Pasha or Mr. Stanley,
iiiid that he. Muni Somai, returns with these nu-n under
^(ajor Barttelot, or whatever white officer he may appoint,
1)V the shortest route to the Territory of Sheik Hamed bin
\Ialiommed, at whatever time he, Major Barttelot, may con-
sider his relief of Emin Pasha or Mr. Stanley, or of both,
to have been accomplished, aiul that be. Muni Somai, also
agrees, in case of Major Barttelot being rendered incapable
iif continuing his Command, to fulfil all the al)()ve conditions,
iiiuler whatever white officer he, Major Barttelot, may appoint.

The said Muni Somai ha^ ing fulfilled all the above con-
ilitions, we, the undersigned, Major Barttelot and Mr. J. S.
Jameson, agree to pay him the remaining sum, .£1880, as soon
;is possible after our return to Zanzibar or Bamma Point.

.,. ./EDMUND M. HAKTTELOT.
^'^"^nj. S. JAMESON.

Jl'ifnc/iifea :
fTirPL-TiB.
liMuNi Somai.

APPENDIX Vlll.

June 25, 1>^88,
Villago Wobari.
Dkar Jameson,

Yovi will not be surprised to hear I am ott' to
Tippu-Tib. Four more men, three loads and rifles, and my boy
Sadi with mv revolver and knife, have deserted. The latter I
caught here ; he says lie was with the others, but they ran
away from him. One of them is that man Jalu, who was with
Miniicliandi. We cannot go on losing rifles like this ; we shall
soon be destitute. The loads that went last w ere a box of pro-
visions (not ours), the last of the assorted cloth, and the pot of

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■',90

STORY OF TIN': IIKAR COLUMN.

j;oc(?). That moro men intend to desert I know, so Iliavo!
deprived them of their rifles. I want you to f^nt Muni Somai
to let you have ^ixty men, good men, to go baek with you to
where IJonny is, which cannot be far from Nasoro bin Saofs,
to help bring up tlie loads and rifles and to act as guards to the
Zanzibaris, thini go on together to Abdulla's and wait nic. I
am going to tlie Falls to ask Tippu either for sixty Manvemas
or for slaves ; if the former I will arm them with the Zanzi-
baris' rifles, so please make Muni Somai understand that lie is
not to keep the rifles you get from Bonny. You had bettor get
a guide to go with you to take you from where Bonny is ^n
Nasoro^s. I am sending Muni llamesi to show you B.'s oain|).
I passed two of your (;arnps to-day, leaving Bonny yesterday.
In the first the fires were alight. You ai)near to have gone tho
same road I Jiu ; if so, it ends in a bloek, where yon will
find one of our camps. By going iip that stream to the N.W.
1 hit olT a road crossing it to the N.E., and that is the road I
liave pursued. There are many villages, plenty of food, aiul
good road to the N. and N.E., and well blazed. I am sure it
is the right one.

Sala, so everyone says, knows where our men are, I have
sent a Soudanese on to search his village to-night. Make it
clear to Muni Somai the sixty nu;n he sends will have to iu Ip
carry loads, as wc shall at least be ten nu;n short, if not more.
Do not give more than two rounds apiece to the men who get
the rifles. Make the remainder up into loads, — 100 rounds =
1 load, — and give it to Zanzibaris and put them under Soudanese^
escort. If you had been with us, I should have sent you, l)ut
it is imperative some one should go, and JJonny, owing to his
slowness &e., is not available. It is useless for me to tell you
about speed, for you always do your utmost, but we must have
men to help carry the h)ads. In case you should have gone on
to AbduUa's, 1 am leaving another letter ibr you at Nasoro's,
Hoping you are well.

Yours very sincerely,

EDMUND M. BARTTELOT.

Impress on Muni Somai the necessity of his aid. I {;(>
straight to Abdulla's from the Falls, and shall be there about
Julv llth.

UMN.

I know, so T liavo
to irp.t Muni Somai

back with you to

Nasoro bin Saofs,
ct as f^nards to tlio
's and wait nic. I
jr sixty Manyemas
itn with the Zanzi.
derstand that lie is
You had better jret
ivlicre Bonny is ^o
ow you B.'s camp.
^ Bonny yesterday.
r to have gone tho
Ic, Avhcre you will
ream to the X.AV.

tliat is the road I
3nty of food, and
zed. I am sure it

men are, I have

■nifjfht. Make it

will have to help

lort, if iu)t more.

the men who gi't

1, — too rounds =

under Soudanese

ave sent you, hut

ny, owinf( to his

f)r me to tell you

mt we must havo

iild have j,'one on

3U at Nasoro's,

JARTTELOT.

his aid. I no
II be there about

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III

i'i,

APPfCXn/X XT.

30 1

APPENDIX X.

Final Agreement drafted hi/ Mr. .T. S. .Tamkson.

I, the undersigned Sheik Hamed bin Maiiommkd bin Dhuma,
agree, for the sum of ij20,()00 (twenty thousand pounds ster-
ling) to faithfully serve and obey Mr. James S. Jameson in my
rapacity of Commander of the four hundred men supplied by
mc to the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition, and to accompany
liim with those men as far as Wadelai or to whatever place
short of that it may be nccesssiry for Mr. James S. Jameson to
go to in his quest of Emin Pasha and Mr. Stanley, and until
such time as he, Mr. James S. Jameson considers his relief of
Kmin Pasha or Mr. Stanley, or both, to have been accomplished.
And I also agree, in case of Mr. James S. Jameson being
rendered incapable of continuing his command, to fulfil all the
above conditions under whatever white officer he, Mr. James S.
Jameson, may appoint.

[Higned)

APPENDIX XI.

Tippu-Tib's Letter.

Tn the excellent, beloved, honoured Friend the
Englishman, AyvRFAV Jameso\,

He who loves you in all that is beneficial for man
is, as I trust you also are, in the favour of (lod. May the
same be with thee, through the goodness of the Lord, the
Liberal, the Master of all things, the Merciful We have
heard of the sad decease of thy brother, our friend Jameson, in
the environs of liangala. I, the survivor of his so recent death,
oould scarcely refrain from tears of weakness, for he was my
pompanion and lo\'ing friend, pure, courteous, wise, and sat
with me and gave me rest in difficulties ; and I wish that his
place with me in friendship, and love and tender affection could
be filled by you, Jameson, however, has not perished so long
\s you remain in life.

Do not, therefore, deprive him who loves you of the news of
your honourable state, of every want of yours, of any service or
order ; only let me know, and it shall be executed with obedience
and good will. TIPPU-TIB.

r. of K.-djeb, 1888.

»nJ. \\

''i

rfj

NATURAL-HISTORY APPENDIX.

THE OKNITIIOLOGIC AL AVOHK

J. S. JAMESON.

BY
R. BOWDLER SHAllPE, F.L.S. etc.,

SOoLOGICAIj UKI'AKTMKNT, iiiutisii muskuu.

It must have been in the year 1877 that I first made the
acquaintance of njy friend the late J. S. Jameson. I reineraber
his coming in to my room at tlie Britisli Museum and intro-
ducing himself to me ; and a bright, good-looking young fellow
he was. The conversation that ensued was somewhat as follows,
as far as I can recollect : —

" I am going to India, to travel and collect specimens of
Natural History, and I Avant to know something about the
birds, and if I can do anything for you.''

" What part of India are you going to ? "

" Well, I thought of going to Kashmir, where there is some
big game in the shape of Deer and wild Sheep to be got, 1
fancy."

" That seems a useless sort of thing to do. Why, having the
time and the means, do you not go somewhere Avhere you could
make some really useful discoveries for science ? Kashmir is
well known, comparatively speaking.

))

OUMTHOLOnr.

898

'■I

. II'

"That is what I should like to do, hut 1 don't know how to
sit about it.''

*• Will you take my advico?*'

" Yes.''

" Whorciibouts in India are von hoinul for?"

" (^ulcutta."

" (lood ! Now when you get to Calcutta, instead of turning
north, go south to Singapore, get across to Labnan, where my
friend IJssher is (iovernor You will find native hunters who
will skin your i)ird8 for you, and he will tell you how to get up
the Lawas River or explore Kma Balu*, both eoniparatively
unknown loealities."

1 gave Jameson a letter of introduction to (iovernor Ussher,
and, with many j'xpressions of thanks, he departed.

1 heard occasionally about him in Born(;o, but in the corre-
spondence with my friend Ussher, which I have preserved, I do
not now find any mention of Jameson, and I rather fancy that
the Governor was away from Labuan when he arrived there,
iind tliat he was the guest of Mr. Treacher, Anyhow, thanks
to the hospitality of one of these gentlemen, Jameson was able to
ascend the Lawas River in North-western Borneo, and he made
a large collection of birds, which have been mounted for him
by Mr. Rowland Ward.

Jt is a great pity that no record of this collection was ever
published, for Jameson met with some interesting species,
and he was the first to discover the Black Pern, a kind of
lioney-Buzzard, in JJorneo, a fact of singular importance at
the time. The genus MachtBr humph us contains two species
of Black Pern — one Oriental [M. alcinus) and one African
[M. anderssoni). The latter was discovered by the late Mr.
(.'. J. Anderssou in Damara-Land, and was named in liis
honour bv Mr. J. H. Gurnev. It has since been found in
Somali-Land and in Madagascar. Previously to Mr. Andersson's
discovery, the genus Machierhuinphus was known only from the

* Within the hvst few years another youn<r tVieml of mine, Mr. Juhn
Whitehead, acting under my advice, ascendt'd Kiiiii Hiilii after great dilK-
CMillies, and obtained about fifty new species of birds, some of them of the
most beautifid plumage and form.

2 D

85)4

SToiir OF Tiih: n /:.'!{ column.

' i

1 1 1

,1 : ! 1

Malnyjin Peninsula, tliou^li it lins since been fcnuul in Tcnam.
^orim and in Now Oiiinoa ! Within the lant few Vfara it
has been met with in several parts of Borneo, hut tlu; first
discoverer of the species in that iHland was Jameson.

The expedition to Mashona^Land, which was his next ex-
ploit, was a very important one, and added a f^reat deal to our
knowledge of the birds of South-eastern Africa. On this oeea-
hion .Famcson took with him Mr. Tliomas Ayrcs, of Potchef-
.strooni, one of the best ficld-natuialists of the day, and the
<ollcetion was described by Captain Shelley in the ' Ibis' for
1882. During this expedition 219 species of binls were
<il)served, and the notes on habits written by Mr. Ayres were of
the higliest interest.

Several species of birds were found for the first time in South
Africa, and our knowledge of the geographical distril)ution of
many forms was much extended. For instance, Salvadori's
Creeper [Hylypsornis ftalvftdf/rii) was discovered on theGangani
Hiver; it was previously only known from Benguela. Sir John
Kirk's Sun-bird (Citnn/ris kirki) was found on the Umvuli River,
never having been known from the south of the Zambesi .jefore.
Andersson's Penduline Tit {Anthoscopus caroli), supposed to be
peculiar to Ovampo-Land, was met with on the Gangani River.
Jameson's Flycatcher [Hyliota australifi) was a new species dis-
covered on the Umvuli River; and on the 23rd of October they
found our Common Martin [Chelidon urbica) on the Quac-Qiiiio
River; its occurrence in winter so far south was previously
unsuspected.

Jardine's Cuckoo-Shrike {Graucalus pecioralis), hitherto be-
lieved to be peculiar to West Africa, was found on the Umvuli ;
and the scries of Weaver-birds (Ploceidts) was most important,
two being new to science — Ayres's Weaver {Slinrpia ay rest,
Shelley) and Jameson's Weaver [Hyphantornis Jamesmi,
Sharpe) .

Mr. Ayres gives the following account of the finding of the
first of these species : —

" This is by no means a common bird. We found it breed-
ing at the Tatin. It makes a rough retort- shaped nest, which
it hangs, mouth downwards, from the outer twigs of rather tall

OllNirHOLOGY,

;u:>

trwHs. S()ni(>tiinos a imjw neat is hung on the tube of the Uwt
yrar's structnn*.

" Mr. Jameson found a nest to the north of tho Hmvuli in
October, with two bhu; e^rfjs in it ; and at th(^ Tatin wo |)Mllr<l
down one of the <h)ublc nests, and Mr. Jameson, on trying; to
put liis hand up the tube, very nearly got bitten by a sn.iko
wliich was lying in the nest, and bad swallowed the old liird as
well as her blue eggs. It is evident, therefore, that nests of
this shape do not always keep out snakes."

A new Weaver- Finch, nanuMl l)y Captain Shelley Lawjuo-
stirtn jamemni, was discovered on the Univuli, and again seen on
the Tatin River. It has been figured by mc in the ' Ca ilogue
of Birds ' (vol. xiii. pi. xi. fig. 1).

It only remains to add that Jameson's Mashona collection
(which contained also a large series of Butterflies and Beetles,
some of which have been named after him) resulted in a very
marked improvem^ \t in our knowledge of South-African
birds; and as, with his usual liberality, he presented the most
interesting of his specimens to Captain Shelley, they will pass,
with the rest of the Shellcv Collection, to the British Museum
and become national property.

It pleases me greatly to know that in his country's Museum
will thus be found the evidences of Jameson's zeal for Science,
while his memory will be treasured by the writer and other
students of African Zoology, who are able to appreciate the
good work he did on his Mashona Kxpeditiou.

NOTES ON THE BIRDS OF THE CONGO REGION.

So at last came the time of the Staidey Expedition, and
Jameson came to me and told me he was intending to join it.
He was full of delight at the prospect, especially at the thought of
meeting Emin Pasha, while I was equally pleased to think of the
gam to Science which would result from the work of these two
naturalists, if they could study together in E(|uatorial Africa.

2 d2

: I •

')iii,i^/J|

390

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

I'll I

!r!!'

•iMli

I gave him a letter for Erain Pasha*, and he promised to come
and 8ee me again before he sailed, though he was nuturallv
much occupied with his preparations for departure. This was
unfortunately my last interview with Jameson. The next dav
he sent me his photograph, as I had begged him to do and
shortly after 1 got a letter from him.

« S.S. ' Assam/ Rrindi.^!,
Monday.
" My dear Sharpe,

" I was very sorry not to have time to call upon you a"aiu
before leaving. I found out, however, almost at the last
moment, that there was no possibility of my going tlirouu-h
with the mails on Friday evening, as they had been full up for
some time before, and they would not give me a seat or any-
thing. Thanks so much for your kind letter bidding me good-
bye and for the letters of introduction also, and I hope to have
many a long chat with you about our trip on our return, and
will attend to your instructions.

" Yours sincerelv,

"James S. James(»n."

I only heard from my poor friend once more. In a letter
from Yambuya (which at the moment of writing I cannot find,
to my great regret) he announced the despatch of a collection
of birds, and expressmg his disappointment at the locality as a
ctfllecting-ground, and his regret that he had not got more
specimens together. The collection, however, though small,
])roved of considerable value j and it was described by Captain
Shelley, to whom I handed it over, as he had already worked
out the results of the Mashona collection. I cannot do better
than quote from Captain Shelley^s preface to show that, singii-
larly poor as Mr. Stanley\s Expedition has been in scitMititic
results, the efforts of Jameson and some of the officers of the
Hoiir Guard were not altogether unproductive. The coll'^';tious
Oi Buttertiies made by Mr. Bonny at Banalya and by Mr.
Herbert Ward at Bangala have been described by Mr. H.

* Wliat became of this letter I do not know. Einin apparently never u'oi
it ; at least he does not mention it in his recent letters to nie.

ti,

OliXITHOLOGT,

397

scd to come
's naturally
Til is was
»e next day
to do, and

»,' Briiulisii,
duv.

» you again
It the last
ig through
*"ull up for
-at or any.
g me good-
ape to have
•eturu, and

lmkson.

In a letter
annot find,

collection
>cality as a

got more
igh small,
)y Captain
dy worked
: do better
lat, singu.

scientific
ers of the
'olln-tious
1 by Mr.
' Mr. H.

}' never ijot

Grose-Smith and by my daughter, Miss Emily Mary Sharpe,
and both were found to contain several novelties.

Captain Shelley, who also knew Jameson well, thus writes
concerning his Yanobuya collection in the 'Ibis' for 1890,
p. 156*:—

" In 1882 I had the pleasure of describing Mr. Jameson's
ornithological collections from Matabele-Land. It is with the
greatest regret that I now have to give a final list of the birds
obtained by this ardent young naturalist during his residence
at Yambuya, on the Upper Congo, where he was stationed with
the rear guard of the Stanley Expedition for the relief of Emin
Pasha. His untimely death has been a loss to science, which
naturalists will regret equally with the loss of those scientific
pioneers of ornithology in Eastern Africa, Drs. G. A. Fischer
and R. Bohm, both cut oft' in their prime, when there was
every reason to expect that their work had only just commenced.
Mr. Stanley is more celebrated as an explorer than as a natu-
ralist, and the unfortunate death of ^Mr. Jameson, who would
have contributed much to the scientific interest of the expe-
dition, is therefore the more to be deplored.

" Small though the present collection be, it will be found to
be of great interest to students of Ethiopian ornithology, and
it is in some resjiects extremely important as regards the
geographical distribution of species, as it serves to show how
small is our knowledge of the range of African Inrds, and how
little we are acquainted with the physical configuration of the
interior of Africa, which might give us some explanation of the
distribution of species. The majority of the birds collected on
the Aruwhirai arc identical with species from the Lower Congo,
and as these arc mostly the same as the forms of Gaboon, the
affinities of the avifauna of these two districts receive ample
confirmation. Thus, when a species inhabiting the Gold Coast
or the Niger Region is represented by an allied species in
Gaboon or in the Congo district, the Aruwhimi bird will be
found to belong to the Congo species and not to that of the
'lold Coast. Hut this is not invariably so ; for the Pholidornis

* " On a ("oUection of liirds made by the lati' Mr. .1. S. Jameson on ths
Aru-wliiiiil Kiver, T/pper (.'ongo." By C'apt. (t, \i. Shelley, F.Z.S.

■1 '.

■in ,
' ' i
- ■ •'. I'

i\i.. . I .

,« ■ JX

398

til.

-,i

STOHr OF THE REAR COLUMN.

discovered by Mr. Jameson is allied to the speeies of the Gold
Coast, as are also Pytelia schlegeli and Diaphorophyia blissetti*^
which ?.ce purely Guinean species. Many birds recorded by
Mr. Bowdler Sharpe as found in the Niam-Nipni country
from Mr. Bohndorft''s collection in 1884 [cf. Journ. Linn. Soe.
Zool. xvii. p. 419), are now shown to have an intermediate
habitat, and a zoological connection is thus established with
the Monbuttu country explored by Emin Pasha. Mr. Jameson's
collection, therefore, limited though it be by reason of the
distractions and responsibility of his position at Yambuva, is of
great importance for our knowledge of the geographical distri-
bution of African birds, and had he lived there is no doubt
that he would have added greatly to the renown of the Stanley
Expedition, to which he contributed a considerable sum of
money, and for which he ultimately sacrificed his life.''

The following extracts from Mr. Jameson^s diaries have been
supplied to me by Mrs. Jameson ; and as nearly all the birds
were carefully labelled by her husband, I have been able to
identify the species referred to in nearly every ease. I have
quoted Captain Shelley's paper on the Collection in the ' Ibis '
for 1890, and have made one or two additional identifications.

BIRDS COLLECTED ON LOWER CONGO, BETWEEN
MATADI AND STANLEY POOL.

\. Wydah Pinch.

Head, breast, tail, and wings black. Shoulders and back
bright yellow. Common on the whole of Lower Conge.
[Penthctriopsis macrura (Gm.); Shelley, t. c. p. 1G6.]

2. Swallow.

AVings, tail, and back blue-black. Rump reddish browu.

* I have re-ex;imined tlio Diaphorophyia, and, liaving conio to the con-
clusion that it is distinct from D, hlissctti, I have culled it D.Jamesom,—
11. B. S.

ORyiTllOLOGY.

399

Ui 1

Top ^f head ditto. Breast white, with pointed spots of bhiek.
Vent white. Common on whole of Lower Congo. [Hirundo
puella, T. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 163.]

3. Weaver-bird.

Cheeks, throat, wings, belly, and tail black. Head, neck,,
breast, and rump bright orange -scarlet. Back, shoulders, and
vent pale reddish brown. Common on Lower Congo. [Pyro-
iiielana Jlammiceps (Sw.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 106.]

4. Warbler.

Head, wings, and back dark olive-green. Throat, breast,,
belly, and vent pale olive-green. Tail light olive-brown. Com-
mon on whole of Lower Congo. [Andropadus cnrvirostria y
Cass.; Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. vi. p. Ill (1881).]

Bee-eater.

Throat, breast, and belly pale red. Vent grey. Head, back^
and wings olive-greenish grey. Tail grey with a reddish tinge.
White streak on each side of throat. Uncommon on Lowe?
Congo. [Merops malimbiirus, Shaw ; Shelley, t. c. p. 166.]

6. Small paradise-tailed Finch.

Top of head, wings, back, and tail black. Neck, throat,
breast, and vent white. Wing-coverts white, mottled with
black. Beak light red. Congo Da Lamba. Common up here,
but not observed nearer coast. [ Vidua principalis (L.); Sharpe,
Cat. B. Brit. Mus. xiii. p. 203.]

7. Coly.

Forehead black. Top of head crested and light grey. Baok
light brownish grey. Rump, tail, and upperside of wings olive-
brown. Tail very long. Throat black ; breast light brown,
barred with black. Belly and vent dirty yellow. Inside of
wings light brownish red. Feet bright red. Could not ob-
serve whether common or uncommon. [^Colius niyricoUis, V. i
Sheilcy, t. c. p. 168.]

ih'n

i ■

I 1

400

STOItr OF Till': RKAR COLUMN.

BIRDS COLLECT KD HiyrWKEN STANLEY POOL
AND AllUWlMI RIVKR.

8. SuN-niRi).

Head, tliroat, back, wing-coverts, and rnnip hriglit metallic
green; breast, belly, and vent lemon-yellow. Taii metallic
green and dark blue. Wings brown tinged with olive-green.
Bolobo ; common on Upper Congo. [Anthothreptes /lypodUus
(Jard.) ; Shelley, t. e. p. 1G2.J

9. FLYCATCH?;it.

Head, back, wings, and tail of a sepia-colour. Throat grcv.
Breast and belly greyish brown. Vent grey, with brown bars.
Scarce here .at Bolobo, but common on Aru "'"li. [Artoniyioa
fiiliginosu, Vcrr. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 158.]

10 and 11. Cock and Hen Woodpecker.

Throat barred black and white. Breast and belly olive-
greenish brown, barred with white. Vent greenish brown,
('heeks white barred with black. Back and wings olive-green.
Tail black. Inside of wings dark brown, barred with white.
Rump greenish yellow tipped with gold. Head of hen dark
brown. Bright golden crest on cock bird. [Mesopicuti wuntho-
lophus, Hargitt; Shelley, t. c. p. 168.]

BIRDS COLLECTED AT ENTRENCHED CAMP,

ARUWIMI RIVER.
July VZth.

12. KiNGHUNTER.

Throat white with tinge of grey. Breast and belly grey.
Vent white. Head and neck dark grey. Wing-coverts and tip
of wing-feathers black. Centre of wing bright blue. Rump
and tail bright blue. Back darker blue tinged with grey.
Feet black. Upper mandible of beak deep red; lower one
black. Common. Female. [Ha/cyon cyanokuca (V.) ; Shel-
ley, t. c. p. 167.]

13. Ditto.

f'l!

Jill inotallio

ORMTHOLOUr.

401

14. T^LACK Weaver-biiid.

.Tct-])luck all over. Feet ])ii}i;lit brown. Eyes brip;ht lemon ;
black pupil. Common. Cock. [Me/ftuop/en/r nif/crrimun
iV.) ; Sliarpe, t. c. p. 176. Pluceus nigerriinus, Shelley, t. c.
p. 104.]

15. Ditto.

July 18M.

1(). Shrike?

Head crested. Head, winj^s, back, neck, tbroat, and tail
black with dark {]freen lustre. Belly and vent \vhit(> ; breast
ami sides white barred with black. Underside of win<!;s black,
with broad bar of white across cent. c. Feet pale lemon. Eyes
brifjjht lemon, black pu])il. Cock. Scarce, the pair shot being
the only ones seen. \_]iius mimviis (V.) ; Shelley, t. e. p. 1.")!).]

17. Shrike? Hen bird of no. Ifi.

Toj) of head crested and dark bi-own. Checks and neck
lighter brown. Throat white. Breast, belly, and vent white,
witii a light reddish-brown tint, liack, wings, rump, and tail
bright light red-brown. Eyes bright lemon. Feet pale lemon.

18. Warbler.

Forehead, cheeks, and un})cr part of throat grey. Line of
bright ycHow over eaf^h eye. Lower part of throat, vent, and
luulerside of wings bright j'llov/. Breast and sides grey with
a green tint. Belly grey ; neck, back, and wing-coverts olive-
green. Wings brown; two short rows of feathers in wing
pointed with yellow ; three of principal feathers next body
pointed with yellow, rest of feathers in wing edged with yellow.
Tail olive-gr(>en, feathers tipped with yellow. Ji^yes sepia.
Feet lavender. Scarce. Cock. Only pair seen. [^Nicator
virt'o, Cab.; Shelley, t. c. p. IGL]

19. AVarbler.

Head dark olive-brown. Throat grey tinged with brown.
Breast and belly light olive-brown. Sides dark(;r. Vent light
brown. Neck light olive-brown. Back, wings, and tail olive-
brown. Rump reddish brown. Eyes pale sepia. Feet lavender.
[Turdinus fulvescens, Sliarpe; Shelley, t. c. p. i(U.]

'. i

i'i

1, '!'.

■-lii

k. i
i'

]iU>:^.l I

402

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN,

•j|^':l

u I

■ I

;h;i

111

IJ! I,'

JnJy \Wi.

20. Small WAimLER.

Head, back, and tail oUvc-green. Winpjs slijijlitly hviglitcr
green. Tliroat pale yellow. Breast pale olive-grccn tiitj^cd
with yellow. lielly bright pale yellow. Vent pale yellow,
Feet very light brown. Eyes dark brown. Common. Cock.
[Cainuroptera brevicauduta (Cretzschm.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. lOO.J

21. Hen bird of no. 20.

Top of head, neek, and back greenish grey. Rump, sides,
and breast grey. Belly and vent white. Wings olivc-gicon.
Tail olive-l)rown. Feathers of legs yellow. Feet very liglit
])rown. Eyes dark brown.

22. Small Warbler.

Forehead pale olive-green. Top of head bright reddish
brown. Cheeks pale olive-green. Throat bright yellow. Top
of breast black, lower part white and grey tinged with yellow ;
belly greyish white tinged with yellow. Vent yellow, IJuck
grey tinged Avith olive-green. Wings and tail olive-brown.
Feet ochre. Eyes dark grey. Scarce. Hen. lEreinomelu
badiceps (Fras.), juv. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 160.]

July 16tk.

23. Redstart?

Top of head, neck, and cheeks black. Line of white running
from beak over eye to back of neck. Throat, breast, sides, and
vent yellow-ochre. Belly white. Back very dark greyish olive.
Rump olive-brown. Shoulders sky-blue. Wings black, fea
thers edged with pale blue. Tail bright light reddish brown,
with the two central feathers black. Feet dark brown. Bves
very light brown. Hen. [Cossypha barttelotiy Shelley, t. c.
p. i59, pi. V. fig. 2.]

July \9th.

24. Small Finch.

Cheeks, throat, and breast white. Belly white tinged with
grey. Vent light grey. Sides light grey tinged with crimson-
lake. Head black. Upper part of back, neek, and wing-
coverts dark grey, closely barred with black. Lower part ol

oiiNrriioLooY.

403

right rcddisli

back and rump crimson-lake. Wings and tail black. Feet
and eyes black. Cock. Scarce. Beak crimson-lake and
black, [Estrelda nonnula, Hartl. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 165.]

Jul II Wth.

25. Sun-bird.

Head, throat, neck, upper part '^f breast, back, shoulders,
and rump bright metallic green. Lower half of breast bright
red and yellow. Belly and vent dark olive-green. Wings and
tail black. Eyes dark brown. Cock. Common. [^Cinnyris
chloropygius (Jard.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 162.]

26. Ditto.

July \?>th.

27. Small Kinohunter.

Throat white; cheeks lilac; line of very bright reddish
brown over eye. Top of head black barred with blue. Back
and wing-coverts very deep blue. Rump bright-^^* blue. Tail
black. Neck, breast, belly, vent to underside of wings bright
liglit reddish brown. Wings black, feathers edged with dark
blue. Feet and beak vermilion. Eyes brown. Common.
Cock. [Ispidina picta (Bodd.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 167.]

28. KiNGHUNTEK.

Same a-* no. 27 in description, but a hen.

29. Ditto. Hen.

July loth.

30. Small Finch.

Head, neck, breast, back, wing-coverts, and tail black.
Belly and vent white. Centre of wings, rump, and sides black,
barred with white. Tips of wings black. Feet black. Eyes
black. Common. Cock. [Spermestes poensis {Fras.) ; SheWey,
t. c. p. 166.]

31. Ditto.

July 26th.

32. Sandpiper.

Head, neck, back, wing-coverts, rump, taril, and feathers of

"'iL^:J

lii

404

STORV OF Till-: ItKAR COLUMN.

I n I

ffi
il;:

•J II

I, !■

i;l -

I'' I;

winpf next 1)o(ly a sliiny allien brown, with dark stirnk down
ceiitro. Wiiig-covcrts, feathers of wiiif^j next body, and tnil
barred with darker brown. Slionlder white, and streak of wliitc
across onter part of win*;. Throat wliite. Upjxr part (
breast gn^y, streaked with brown; rest of breast, bellv, aiK'
vent white. Lej^s pah; yellowish ^rey. Eyes very dark hrowii ;
large dark pupil. Hen ; only one seen. Distinct ruffs on eacli
side of neek. [TrhiDoides hypoh'vrus in full breed iuir- pi mnntir
ratiier wo'*? , as. if on its way south after breediuf^, (Jf. Shellev
t. t\ |i ^ /^'.j

J i,ly :-.7{h.

33. Snvallov.

Length from tip of tail to beak 8^ inelics. Head, neek
vvin.'!:s, back, and tail deep Idue-blaek. Throat, breast, luliv,
vent, and rump light reddish bufJ*. White bar across underside
of tail. Eyes very deep brown. Cock. [JJlruiido tjurdoiu,
.Tard. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 103.]

July Wlh.

31. VVkaver-iurd. ITen of no. 1 4.

Head, back, and Aving-eoverts daik olive-green, marked down
the centre with dark brown. Rump lighter olive-green. Tail
brown tinged with green. "Wings very dark brown; feathers
edged vvith ochre. Throat greenish gold, breast darker ditto.
Belly and vent bright yellow. .I\yes hazel. Feet ])ale jiinky
brown. [Melauo/jteryx nigerriiuus (Y.) ; Ploceus ii'iytri'iinus,
Shelley, t. c. p. 1(U.]

35. Weaver-bird.

Throat, line round eyes, line at back of the neck and shoulders
black. Cheeks, top of Iiead, sides of neck, and breast rich
deep gold. Belly and vent very bright yellow. Back very
dark brown. Wings, rump, and tail olive-brown. Eyes dark
brownish grey. Feet pinkish brown. Cock. [This is Mehin-
hyphantes niyricullis (V.), Sharpe, Cat. B. xiii. p. 415. IHoceus
niyricollis, Shelley, t. c. p. 165.]

36. WooriPECKER.

Top of head black, closely spotted with white. Back of
head bright red aud crested. Throat, checks, and ucck dirty

ORMTIIOLOGT.

405

1, niarkod down

wliitc, every featlier with a black spot in centre. Proast, belly,
aiid vent dirty yellowish white, closely barred m ith Ijjuck. Back,
wiiig-covcrts, shoulders, and rump dark olive-green. \Viiigs
and tail olive brorn. I'lyes dark brown. Feet greenish yellow.
Hen. [Camjmthera perinista, Ueichen. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 108.]

Jul 11 ''jiSt.

37. NifiJITJAR.

Top of bond dark reddish brown barred with black. Neck :
iippi'i" part, a bar of (!losely mottled dark brown and dirty white ;
lower part, a bar of light reddish brown barred with black.
Throat pale reddish yellow barred with black, and a bar of
white running across the centre. Upper part of breast reddish
yellow barred with black. Lower half of breast dir white
barred with black. Belly and vent dirty yellowish whi^ , c* cly
barred with black. IJack dark brown, mottled w i vt Ish
brown. Wing-coverts and shoulders dark brown, > tt; d with
lijilit reddish brown and reddish yellow. Kest of w^igs light
reddish brown, barred with black. Tail, broad 1 'rs of black
and mottled light red, black, and white. Eyes ver^ durk brown,
large black pupils. Hen. Only one seen. [Cosmetornis
re.ii/larius (Gould) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 167.]

Jvlj/ '.mh.

38. Plover.

Forehead and cheeks light reddish brown. Top and back of
head dark -ireyish brown. Throat white, going off into grey at
sides and bottom. Upper half of breast and back dark grey.
Lower lialf of breast reddish brown in centre, with grey on
each side. Belly and vent white. Underside of wings, upper
half from shoulders white, lower black. Back and wing-covcrts
olive greenish grey, tipped with bright red Wings black, with
a white bar running right across from ander shoulder to body.
Rump and upper half of tail white. Lower half of tail black.
Eyes dark sepia, very large black pupil. Hen. Believe to be
hen bird of Spur-wingcd Plover shot on Stanley Pool. [Lobi-
vunellus super ciliosiis, Beichcn.; Shelley, t. c. p. 169.]

31). LakgI': W^EAVKR-niUD.

Tup of head, cheeks throat, and a line running down into

I ■

406

STORY OF Till': lit'JAU COLUMN,

\:\

1)iTast black. Biick of head dark rcddisli brown. Neck rirh
{golden yellow. Hack between shoulders, a line of bri^rjit vcllow
bordered by a line of black on each side. Rest of back hri^Mit
yellow and black, mottled. Rump yellow. Tail olivc.jrp(.,.n
tinj?ed with yellow. VViu^'-covcrts brifj^lit yellow. A line of
black across shoulders; rest of win^s bi-own, feathers tipped
and edj^cd with yellow. Breast and belly rich dark j-ddcn
yellow. A'ent bright pale yellow. Kyes deep oniiij^cicd.
Cock. Scarce here. [Ploceus bohu(h)rjJi, RcicluMi. ; SlulU'v,
t. c. p. 164. Ilyphantornis bohndorjji, Sharpe, Cat. \\. xiii. p. I.").").
This species was not in the IJritishMuseuuj, to which it has now
been presented by Mrs. Jameson.]

40. Swii'T.

Head, hack, neck, breast, and winji^s glossy greenish black. A
small white spot immediately below beak on throat; rest oF
throat l)laek. Belly and vent white. Rump white with black
quills. Tail : upper half white with black cpiills ; lower half
glossy greenish black, with the black quills extcMiding into sharp
spikes. Eyes very dark brown. Feet grey. lieu. [Choiluru
su/jtnei, Gray ; Shelley, t. c. p. 108.]

August 2nd.

41. Woodpecker.

Top of head dark hrown, witli golden crest. Checks white,
with black bar in centre. Throat white, slightly harred with
black. Breast and belly dirty brownish green spotted with
white. Vent dark olive-green. Back of neck black ; sides of
ditto white and black. Back and wing-coverts dark olive-green.
Rump dark gold. Outer feathers of M'iug dark brown, slightly
barred with white spots ; rest of wing dark olive-green. Tail
black. Cock. Eyes dark brown. [Mesopicus xanthu/op/ins,
Hargitt; Shelley, t. c. p. 168. Captain Shelley observes: —
"This species was originally described from Gaboon, was als;)
found on the Lower Congo by Lucan and Petit, and afterwards
by BohndorfF in the Niam-Niam country. '']

Basuko.

43. AVOOUPECKER.

Hen bird of no. 41 . Description exactly the same, except waut
of crest on head, and it has two dark brown feathers in tail.

0JL\rj'/J0LO(J}'.

407

;»

43 to !."». Smalf, Fin( iiks.
Same iis no. 21 . ('ocUs.

4(). IIcii of no. 2I..

Same as no. l^l. Only dark ^rcy wlioro Ii<;1it in cock bird.
[ICs/tU'/t/a noniiiilu, Ilartl. ; Slirlley, t. c. p. 1G.;.J

17 and 18. Rom, i: us.

Ilcadj nock, liack, wing-covcrts, feathers of winfj next l)ody,
and shoulders reddish brown. Throat, breast, and belly reddish
hrown tin<4(>d with rnagcnita. Vent and nnderside of tail and
winji's pale sky-bine. Leg-covcrts slightly deeper bine. Rest
of wing very dark blue. Upperside of tail very dark brownish
jii-ey tinged with bine. Other leathers light bine tipped with
black. Heak light brown. I']yes dark brown. Both hi.-ns.
Scarce. {I'lurijsloniuti uj'er (Latli.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 107.]

A II ;i list Will.

10. Wauhlkk.

Head, throat, and cheeks glossy blnc-black. Neck, breast^
belly, and vent dark blnish grey. Back, rnnij), wing-coverts,
and feathers of wings next body bright red-brown. Onter
leathers of wing and tail very dark l)lnish grey. J']yes deep
claret. Beak, legs, feet, and rim ronnd eye lavender". Hen.
Scarce. [Ih-psip/tone cr'istata (Gm.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 1.j8.]

r)0 and 51. Bkk-kati;rs.

Head, checks, neck, and nppcr part of back black tinged with
dark green. Line over eyes and forehead bright greenish
blue. Throat bright crimson-lake. Breast black, spotted with
bright bine. Belly and vent dull Kingfisher-blue. Back and
Aving-coverts black tinged with dark green. Wings black and
light brownish red ; feathers edged with blue. Rump bright
Kingfisher-blue. Tail black tinged with dark blue. Cock
birds, and scarce. Eyes deep clarct-red. [^MelUtophuyas yularis
(Shaw) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 167.]

Sli and ").'! Bee-katkus. Hens of nos. 50 and 51.
^riiroat paler crimson. Vent and belly duller blue. No blue
line over eves and forehead. Eyes dark brown.

i!;i; •' ' '

, ^ ' '■■1

! ,

mi ,

jA\

408

HTUlty OF Tin: RIUK COLUMN,

1:1

ni. SlIUIKK.

Top (»r linid niid iirck hl.ick. Tliroat, line from hcak over
eyes, breast, Ix'lly, and voiit wliito. Hark, wiii^s, and tail very
dark {ifrcy. Hum|) vcr^ hri;;lit jficy. I'-yrs dark ^rrcy. \,v^s
and Icct dark lavnuk-r. Scarce. [P>'l/oti('(»j)u.s trico/ur, Viih. ifc
Keii'hcn.; Shelley, t. c. p. Ki'i.]

55. SiiiiiKi:.

ilet-l)laek all over. Very lon<r (InMy feathers on back and

rurnp. I'^yes dark brown. Cock. Scarce. [Drijoscopus Icuco-

rhijiichuH, Ilartl.; Shelley, t. c. p. Kil.]

50. Small KiNtniLNTKii.

Same as no. 27. [fsjndinu picta (Hodd.) ; Shelley, t. c.

p. i(;7.i

57. Small Smhikk?

Tliroat, sid(! of neek, vent, l)elly, and riinip pnre white
Breast, back, head, neek, win^s, and tail black. ICyes very
dark red, next ])npil fading into brown. Faded pnrple wattles
I'onnd eyes. Feet faded |)nr|)le. Cock. Scarce. [Pittp/ioro-
plni'id r/istanca (Fras.) ; Shelley, t. e. p. 158.]

58. Wahhlkr.

Top of head and necik brown. Throat, hrcast, belly, and vent
yellowish white. Sides f?rey. Hack, wiitgs, and tail brownish
j^rey. Lej^-eovcrts reddish yellow. Scarce. Ccjck. [Cistico/a
rtijirnjd/ta (Fras.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. KJO.]

51). WooDPKCKKii. Cock bi'd of no. 30.
Description same, only whol(! top of bead red. [Campotheru
IKTinistit, lleichen. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 108.]

November 7th.

()0.

Head, neek, and breast deep indij^o. Sides, helly, and vent
very dark ^rey. Hack and winjif-eovevts lijfht reddish brown.
Tail black, with two central feathers very long and pnre white,
about two and a half times length of tail. Feet and beak dark
lavender. Eyes dark brown. Cock, Wings black, with a bar
of white running from shoulder across centre. This bird I

ou.Mi'iioi.oay.

109

hcliovc to he the cock of no. tJ), iiln-ady ^ont lioinc, jiikI I tliink
I, I'iirjulisc Klvi'iitt'lier. ITerj/sijihunc crislalu ((iiii.) ; Sliclley,
t. ('. |i. I"»H.]

Dtci'uihcr \)th.

(11. l»i,ovi;ii.

l-'orclicad lij?lit reddish hrown. Top of head and rrost hlnck.
('h(!C'kH, neck, and h)\v('r half of throat ^n^y. Throat white.
SicU's of hrcasi and iippcr part {^rcy ; rest a rich warm l)r()wn.
Hclly, vent, nn(U!rsi(U> of tail, rump, and up[)('r half of tail-
leathers white. Kxtrcmity of tail black. Wii^-crovcMMs an
ashen green; broad white bar across centre of \\\\\\f. Outer
feathers of winjj black ; underside of winj^ white, with long
feathers black. IJaek a rich olive jfreeni^h ash. lOye a rich
ycllow-oehre, with large black pupil. Keet a pinkish shit(!-
eolour. hright lemon-coloured wattles round the ey(!s and
over forehead. Jielicve to be cock bird of no. WH. [Lofjiva-
ni'llus sujitniliusus, lleichen. ; Shelley, t. C. p. KJ'J.]

Ortohrr UHth.

(jy. S)' INK-TAILED SwiFT.

Head and checks black tinged with dark green. Throat
dirty white streaked with dark grey. Upper half of breast
^Tcy, with centre of each feather darker grey. Rest of breast,
hilly, and vent whiti;, with a black streak down centre of each
leather. Rump white, with ditto. 'I'ail black, with sharp
black spine at end of each feather. ]iaek and wings black
tmged with dark green. Eycis dark sepia. IJelieve to be lieu
(if no. 10. [Choilura cuss'mi, SScl.j Shelley, t. c. p. 1(J8.J

Odubcr 2'^rd.

(hi. ClIAUNTINO FaL(ON.

Forehead ud cheeks very pale bluish grey. Top of head,
neck, and iipprr half of breast slightly darkcT ditto. Throat
white, with strcidc of grey down centre. Lower half of breast,
belly, and leg-coverts white, closcjly barred with dark grey.
Wing-coverts and back bluish grey; rest of wing very dark
fiiey, almost black, with white tips to feathers. Kumji very
dark grey over white. Tail black, with white tip and whita

2 K

it .

/liu.J.

[■I' I

410

i|,|

STOllY OF THE 111: All COLUMN,

'-ar across, one inch from tip. IJcuk : upper half l)rijrlit rcddisl,
orange. Legs ditto. Eyes very dark brown, uitli oran'^e Hds
[Asturinu/a motioyrummica, Shelley, t. c. p. 157.]

Deceniber IGth.

(51. Lauoe Hee-eateh.

Forehead and line over eyes pale sky-blue. Top of h(>ad and
ueek bright gieen tinged with pale blue. Line of jet-hlack
rnnning i'roni b(>ak under eyes, forming broad j)atch over ear.
Under tliis line, and of same length, line of white with undei'
cdgeof sky-blue. Throat next beak light gold fading into ))at('!i(jF
])alc sienna, ])ordered on each side by light green ; rest of throat,
breast, belly, vent, back to rmnp bi'ight green tinged with skv-
blue, particularly on vent and rumi). AVing-eoverts a rich
olive-green tijiged with gold; four central feathers and outer
feathers edged with sky-blue, all feathers tipjjcd with hJac^k.
Tail bright olive-green, with two central feathers long and
])ointed. Underside of wing pale golden-brown. Eyes crinisoti-
lake. Wcnk black. Feet dark grey. Cock. [Merojjs: jjcrs'icus,
l*all. Meropff super cil'iosus, Slielley, t. e. p. 1G7 (necL.).]

(ij. Ditto, with exception of central feathers of tail not fullv
developed. Cock.

60. Hen of last bird.

T(jj. of head, neck, back, and wing-coverts faded jr-itn,
tinged with very pale blue. Upper half of throat pale gold;
cheeks and throat very })ale reddish yellow. Breast and helly
pale green, tinged with very pale blue. Rump very light
greenish blue, almost white. Inside of wings pale reddi.sh
yellow. Rump bright green, tinged with pale blue; tail pale
bluish green. Wings: upper half faded green j central feathers
faded blue, tipped with brown; outer feathers faded greeiiis.li
blue, tip[)ed with blown ; four central feathers of very daik
olive-green, tipped with black. Many feathers still in (juili.
Believed to be young bird.

December ^th.

07. Small Bk«- eater.

Forehead, line over eyes, and upper half of throat wliite;

ORMTIIOUXiY.

411

clieeks black. Top of lu'ad very dark brown ; lower half of
throat bhick, cdgccl above and beh)w witri bri};hr sky-blm;.
N'eek pale reddish yellow, ti; .-ed with ^^reeii. Hreast pale
green, tiiij^ed with very pale blue. lielly and vent white,
tinned with very pak; lij^lir blue. Rump bri^lit sky-blue. Baek
and wing-eoverts l)ri<ihr <;reeii. ^^'in<i;-feathers next body blue,
tipped with black; outer feathers bright golden green, edged
with blue. Tail bright blue, with two central fV^athers long and
pointed. Cock, Eyes crimson-lake; feet grey. [Merojjs ci/bi-
collis, v.; Shell(!y, t. e. j). K)/".]

GH. l^EK-i-ATEK. lien bird of no. Ci7.

Same deserijjtion ; but colour of feathers distinctly paler,
and without two long pointed feathers; in tail. [^Merups albi-
cnU'iSy v.; Shelley, t. e. p. 167.]

No re in be r \)th.

09. Thkush.

Top of head and neek yellowish green. Cheeks bright yellow.
Throat very light grey, lirea^l grey, with light streak down
centre. Belly white. Sides, long fluify feathers of an olive-
green, tipped with lemon. Vent and leg-coverts bright lemon-
yellow. Underside of wings bright lemon,, except outer fea-
thers, which are grey. Back and wing-coverts dark olivc-grecMi.
Rump light olive-green. Tail golden olive. On wings two
distinct liars of bright lemon spots, and two longest feathers
next body tipped with bright lemon. Rest of feathers of wing
brown, edgvd with golden olive. Eyes dai'k sepia. Heu. Eeet
grey. [Nkulur ciduris (Val.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 101.]

'■3

October 7th.

70. Rail.

Head, throat, neek, breast, and top of back bright reddish
brown. Tail dark reddish brown. Back, wing, rump, and
hellv black, covered with round white spots. Vent and leg-
eoverts olive-brown, s|)otted with black. Legs and feet dark
piidvish brown. Cock. Eyes light brown, [Corethrura
pnlrhra, J. V.. Gruv ; llartl. Orn. W,-Afr. p, 211 (1857),]

2 E 2

4... iJlLiiii ./I

412

.STOHr OF THE lii'LUt COLUMN.

'■i

Odubcr \8th.

71. Dotterel.

Forehead wliite, tinged with pale huff. Top of head dark
grey, edged M'itli creamy brown. Throat white. Ring of
white round ncek ; below this a ring of black, edged witii grcv,
and forming rntfs on side of breast. Breast, belly, vent, under-
side of tail, and wings white. Back and wing-eovcrt.s asli,
edged with creamy brown. Long feathers of wing next bodv
olive-ash. Central feathers of ditto light grey, with white
line through centre of wing. Outer feathers of wing black,
and quill of outer one of all pure white. Cock. Eyes (Uirk
brown. [^Egiu/itis minor (Meyer and Wolf) ; Shelley, t. c.
p. U)9.]

December 21 st.

72. KiNOHUNTER.

Same as no. 12. Cock. Eyes dark brown. [Halcyon cyano-
leuca (V.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 167.]

73. Golden Cuckoo.

Top of head dark purplish bronze. Neck and back bright
])urplish bronze, tinged with green. Throat, neck, and breast
pale buff, streaked with brown. Streak of white down centre
of belly and vent ; rest of belly, vent, and sides bright bronzy
green, barred with white. Wing-coverts and rump bright
bronzy green. Central feathers of wing and feathers next body
bright bronzy green ; the central fea'hei's barred with reddish
brown on outside edge. Outer feathers of wing dark bronzy
;^reen, barred on inside edge with reddish brown. Two centritl
feathers of tail dark bronzy green, edged, tipped, and burred
next body with reddish brown. Rest of tail-feathers re(hlish
brown, barred with bronzy green, and tipped with white.
Underside of wings bright bronzy green, barred with Avhite.
Underside of other feathers of wing dark grey, barred with
white and light reddish brown. Eyes hazel. Hen. [C/tryso-
coccya; kJaasi, V. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 1G8.]

December \Wi.

74. Large Sun-ijird.

Throat and upper half of breast metallic prussian-blue, with

ORMTIlOLOOr.

418

shades of purplo. Cliocks hronzy purple. Top of head hriglit
metallic, very dark j;rceii. Line from back of eyes, neck, back,
rump, and wing-covcrts bright metallic bronzy green. Wings
black, Avith a shade of very dark brown. Lower half of breast
and belly very dark crimson-claret. Vent black, with a spot of
crimron-claret on each feather, and each feather cd<^ed with
l)right metallic goidcn-grcen. Tail black. I'^yes dark sepia.
Cock. Legs and feet black. [Ciiitiyrls avperbus, V. ; Shelley,
t. c. p. 1()J2.]

75. Same as no. 7 A. Cock.

7Q. Lauoe SuN'-Biiin. Hen of nos. 74 and 75.

Throat pale lemon-yellow, slightly tinged with green. Breast
pale olive-green tinged with lemon. Helly lemon. Sides light
olive-green tinged with lemon. Vent bright reddisli orange.
A line of bright lemon over eye ; from beak to eye and over
ears a line of dark olive-green. Cheeks lemon. Top of head
(lark olive-green tinged with brown. Neck, back, and wing-
coverts green tinged with grey. Rump bright green. Tail
(lark brown, edged with olive-green. Wings dark brown, edged
with olive-green, and central feathers edged with orange. Eyes
dark brown. Legs and feet black.

December 22nd.

77 and 78. Saiall Swallows.

Upper half of throat and sides of tliroat, top of head, neck,
breast, belly, vent, back, rump, and wing-coverts bright metallic
prussian-blue. Centre of throat white; sides white. Upp(;r-
side of tail bright prussian-blue; underside black, with inside
edge of each feather nearly down to end white. Outer feathers
of wing black tinged with deep blue. Hen. Eyes very dark
sepia. Feet black. [Hlnindo niyrita, Gray; Shelley, t. c.
J). 1G3.]

79. Saxupipeh.

Sid(js of forehead, throat, lower half of breast, belly, vent,
undersides of wings, and tail and tail-coverts white. Centre of
Ibrehead, top ol head, neck, breast, and cheeks grey, will' a
streak of darker grey down centre. Back dark grey, feathers
edged with white. Rump diito. Two lines of white across

414

STOltr OF TJIE liKAU COLUMN.

\W:

•1

centre of wings. Centre of wings light ashen grey. Long
outer feathers of wing very dark grey, with white quills, 'fail
light grey, edged with white. Eyes sepia. Hen. Hcak lonf;
and slightly curved. [Trifiga nubarquuta (L.) ; Shelley, t. c
p. 170.]

80. Sun-bird. Same as no. 25. Cock. [Cinnyris cliloro-

November 9th.

81. Small Shrike?

Top of head dark bluish grey. Throat light reddish brown.
Breast, back, and wing-coverts reddish brown. licPy and
vent white. Rump and sides light grey. Tail black. Wattles
round eye rose-nuidder or faded purple. Feet and legs pinkish
grey. Eyes dark lake. Feathers of rump, vent, sides, and leg-
coverts very long and fluffy. Hen. [Diaphorophyia custaneu
(Fras.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 158.]

November 7th.

82. Small Shrike.

Head, neck, throat, upper half of breast, back, rump, tail,
wing-coverts, and wings very dark metallic green. Lower half
of breast, belly, vent, and leg-coverts white. Cheeks bright
reddish brown. Wattles round eye rose-madder. Feet and
legs pinkish grey. Eyes dark lake. Cock. [Diaphorophyia
blissetti {nee Sharpe) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 159.] This appears to
me to be a distinct species from D. blissetti. The patch of
feathers on the ear-coverts is not only nmch smaller and does
not extend to the liinder cheeks as in D. blissetti, but it is of a
different colour, being more maroon than ferruginous. Total
length 3*8 inches, wing 2*15, tail 0-85, tarsus 0'65. I therefore
propose to call the Yambuya bird Diaphorophyia Jamesoni,
sp. n.

November 9th.

83. Species unknown.

Head, neck, back, rump, and wing-coverts very dark brown,
feathers tipped with bright yellowish green. Wings and tail
dari<; browr^ idged with ditto. Throat, breast, belly, and vent

OllMTHOLOGY.

415

inyris chloro-

dirty white, fcatlicrs barred with briglit greenisli yellow and
black. Eyes pale lemon. Young bird. [Barhatula scolopacea
(T.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 169.]

October 2Hth.

84. Yellow Wagtail.

Top of head dark grey tinged with olive-green. Line of
lemon passing over eye to ear-coverts. Cheeks olive-green.
Throat bright lemon-yellow. Breast a dull yellow tinged with
o[rey. Belly and vent bright lemon-yellow. Ncek and back
grey, tinged with olive-green. Rump olive-green. Tail black,
with the two outer feathers on each side white. Wings dark
greyish brown, feathers edged with dirty wliite. Cock. [iHo-
tacilla campestris, Pall.; Shelley, t. c. p. 104.]

November 1st.

85. Flycatcher.

Top of head grey, with darker streak down centre of each
feather. Throat and breast dirty white, with grey streak down
centre of each feather. Belly and vent white. Neck, back,
and wing-coverts light brownish grey. Wings and tail greyish
brown, feathers edged with dirty white. Two central feathers
of tail short and very dark grey. Cock. [Muscicapci grisola,
L.; Shelley, t. c. p. 158.]

December 27 th.

8C. Finch.

Head, cheeks, throat, breast, sides, and rump bright imson.
Neck, back, belly, and vent black. Wings very dai brown,
almost black. Tail dark red. Beak dark prussian bme, with
shade of mother-or-pearl in upper mandible. Eyes doop claret.
Legs and feet deep yellow-ochre. Cock. [Pyren. .es cocci-
neus, Cass.; Shelley, t. c. p. 160.]

87. Golden Cuckoo.

Young bird. Eyes light grey. Eyelids green. Feet sea-
green. Cock. [Clirysococcyx smaragdinem, Sw.,juv.; Shelley,
t. c. p. 109.]

88. Wakbler. Same as no. 58. Cock.

» ( :

111

.ii;^

■ p
I

416

STORY OF TllH JiKAIt COLUMN.

89. Swift.

Total expanse of wings TO in. Lciijifth of each wing 7\ in.
Lengtli from tip of beak to tip of tail 74- in. Top of head (lui-k
brownish grey, with an olive-green tinge npon it, slightly
lighter on tlie forehead. Checks very dark brownish grey.
Throat dirty white. Breast, belly, back, rnnip, and wiuo.
coverts very dark brownish grey, with an olive-green gloss on
it. Vent a light ashen grey. Tail dark ashen grey, and very
mueli forked. Wings, the two long outer feathers I)hick ; rest
of wing a dark sepia-like grey, with a rich sheen of olive-green.
Eyes very dark brown. Legs f(«athered down to l>(>ginning of
toes. Feet grey. Cock. [Cypselus apus, L. ; iShelley, t. c.
p. 168.]

90. Small Finch ?

Forehead and half of top of head bright crimson. Ch(Tks,
tln'oat, breast, belly, and vent bright reddish brown or ruw
sienna, liack of head, neek, back, rump, and wing-eoverts dark
green, with a tinge of olive-green all over it. Tail dark grey.
Feet pinkish ochre. Wings, long feathers dark bi'own, short
ones greyish green. Eyes deep claret. Cock, [^l^holidonus
jauiesoni, Shelley, t. c, p. 163, pi. v. fig. 1. Similar to P/io/i-
doriiis rubr'ifrunsoi the Clold Coast, but distinguished by haying
the whole of the face chestnut and not spotted with ashy grey.]

91. Finch. Same as no. 86. C/Ock.

BIRDS COLLECTED AT YAMBUYA CATNIP.

92. Warbler. Ccck.

Throat white. Ijine from beak to eye and cheeks very dark
grey, almost black. Top of head very dark grey, feathers
edged with lighter grey. Neck, back, and wing-coverts Freneh-
grey. Breast and sides light French-gr(;y. Belly and ccntie
of lower half of breast m bite. Wnit dirty grevish white. Tail
light brownish grey. Wings of a uniform brownish grey.
Eyes dark brown. [Burnesia leucopoyun (Cab.) ; Shelley, t. c.
p. 160.]

OllMTIlDLOnr.

41'

•wiiisli jrrcv.

Finches. 93. Cock, 01. Ilcn.

Forehead, cheeks, throat, breast, belly, vciit, and tail black.
Top of head next forehead very light grey, almost white ; rest
dark French-grey. Neck, back, and tail-coverts dark French-
grey. Rnmp very light grey, almost white. Wii\gs black,
with white spots on shoulder, and bar of wliitc-tipped feathers
.'icross wing below shoulder, and three main feathers of wing
next body tipped with white. ' Cock. F]yes ora.igc.

Ilcn. Eyes orange. F^xactly the same as cock-bird, but
light grey, not so nearly white.

[Niffrita canicapilia, Strickl. ; Shelley, t. c. p. ICo.]

95. Small Sun-biud.

Head, cheeks, neck, back, rump, and wing-coverts metallic
bronze-green. Throat bluish grey. Lower part of throat and
upper part of breast bright metallic green, succeeded by a thin
line of orange. On each side of breast a tuft of bright lemon.
Belly and sides pale olive-green. Vent pale lemon-yellow.
Tail very dark brown, almost black, with feathers edged with
metallic bronze. Wings very dark brown; f<ati rs edged with
golden olive. Cock. Eyes pinkish red. Le^s arid feet black.
[Anthothreptes tephrokenia, Jard. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 1(53.]

96. Small Sun-bird.

Throat dirty greyish white. Breast, sides, and vent a dirty
greyish white, tinged with yellow and streaked with brown.
Centre of breast and belly same, with more yellow in it. A
line of dirty white from beak over eye. Top of head, cheeks,
neck, back, rump, and wing-coverts and tail a warm brown.
Wings same brown, edged with whiter brown. Hen. Eyes
dark sepia. Legs and feet black. \_Cininjris aiif/olcn.s'is (Ijcss,);
Shelley, t. e. p. KJ^.]

97. Wakulkii. Cock.

Top of h( ad, neck, back, rump, wing-covcrts, and tail a r»ch
(lark olive-green. A line of yellow from beak over eye. Cheeks
dark olive greenish-brown. Throat, breast, belly, and vent a
light grey tinged with green. Wings dark brown ; fcatheis
edged with olive-green. Eyes dark brown. Legs and feet pale
grey. Cock. \_Hijlia prasinu, Cix:^s. ; Sluirpe, t. c. p. L'JO.]

,ii

' ll

•118

STOIty OF THE REAR COLUMN.

J)8. Sux-niui).

Same as no. 74. Cook. Not quite mature plumage.

J)!). Wahulku. (^)('k.

Top of head, neck, back, and wing-covorts pale sepia. TJiu'
of white barred with black over eye. Throat, breast, sides,
vent, rump, and leg-eoverts white, elosely barred Mith black.
U'ings (lark brown ; feathers edged with lighter brown. W'lijt,'-
tipped feathers on slioulder, and two bars o[' wliite-tippcd
feathers across upper half of ■'it'ing. Three main feathers next
body tij)ped Avith Mhitc. Tail, upperside only showing tun
long brown feathers, tipped with white ; underside showing
five feathers on each side of tail in a straight line, one longer
than the other, tipped with Mhite. (;!ock. Eyes dark brown.
Feet dark grey. [liurucsia bairdl (Cass.); Shelley, t. c.
p. 1(50.]

!()(;. WaRHLKR.

Same as no. OS). Hen.

101. Paraoise FLVtATciiER. Cock.

Immature bird, without long white feathers of tail. Same
as no. 00.

102. Paradise Flycatcher. Hen.

Same as no. 49. [^Verpsiphone cristata, Shelley, t. c. p. 1,')H.]

103. AVeaver-bird. Cock.

Same as no. 3.5. [Me/anhyp/iantes niyricollk (V.). Ploceus
niyricoUis (V.); Shelley, t. c. p. 105.]

104. Weaver-bird. Hen.

Hen of above. Cheeks dark gold. Forehead, line over eyes,
throat, breast, belly, and vent bright lemon-yellow. Top of
head black. Neck and back dark olive-brown. Rump olive-
brown tinged with yellow. 'VoXX olive-brown. Wing-shouldii >
very dark brown, rest of wing dark brown j feathers edged witii
olive greenish-yellow, [ilf. niyricoUis, ut supru.]

105. Species unknown.

Top of head., sides of neck, and line across top of breast
rich dark clan.'t. Throat and upper half of breast elarec,
fchot with wlii'.c. Neck, back, and rump deep shiny indigo-

. -^ ^

OliSITnoLOGY.

410

'I'sidc sliowiiiir
inc, one loiiffcr

jf tail. Same

hlne. Breast and l)olly brij^lit Icinoii-ycllow, Si(lc><. ](><r-
(■(ncrts, and vent black ; feathers tipped with ji-niou. Tail
hUiek. Siioulder of uings white. Rest of \vin<^ deep bliie-
hhiekjvith i'eathers edj^ed wiih brown. IJeak and hirge wattks
I'onnd eye brij^ht fjjolden yellow, i'lyes* dark nd. Ijej^s and
I'eet dark slate. Jlen? [IVac/ii/j/huniitf piirpiirutus, Verr. ;
Shelley, t. e. p. KH).]

10(5. Lauoe Warhlkh. Hen?

Top of head and neek lij^ht greyish brown. Back and win^-
coverts lij>ht y(.'llowish brown. Rump still li};;hter yi-llowish
brown. ('heek.s |)ale oehrc. Throat white. Breast, belly, and
vent oehre, nearly bulY at the sides, and white ineentre. \N'ings
lij^ht brown, edged with yellowish brown. I'ail light brown,
[jcgs and ieet lavender. Eyes light grey. Hen ? \^Acroce-
l)liulus turdohk's (Beehst.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 159.]

107. SmtiKE.

Same as no. oo. Hen.

108. Cardinal Finch.
Same as no. 8(5. Cock.

109. Finch. Coek.

Top of head, neek, back, wings, tiiil, sides, centre of breast,
l)elly, and vent black. Throat, l)reast, and sides of lower half of
breast bright crimson. Rump dark crimson. Beak j)riissiau-
blue and red. Cheeks dark crimson. Eyes red. Cock. [_Spt.'r-
mosjAza guttata (V.); Shelley, t. e. p. 1(jC5.]

[110. Macrosphenus flavicans, Cass.; Shelley, t. e. p. IGO.
This species was not in the British Museum, and was one of the
most interesting in the Collection.]

111. Small Sun-bird. Coek.

Head, throat, neck, back, wing-coverts, and rump bright
metallic green. Line on upper part of breast below green of
bright metallic purple. Lower half of breast, sides, and vent
olive-greenish yelloAv. Centre of lower half of breast and belly
lemon. Tuft of bright lemon on each side of breast. 7\Vings
bro^^n; feathers edged with olive-green. Tail deep prussian-
blue, edged with met'dlic green. Cock, i^^yca dark brown.

420

SToiiv or THE HI': Alt columx.

W-

■\ :i

Legs and feet hhick. [Anthn/Zu'cpics InjpodUus, Jard. ; Shelley,
t. c. p. 1(52.]

112. TnKusii.

Believed to be young of no. 69.

11. '5. AVAiini.Kii,

Same as no. 58. Cock.

111. SuN-niRD. Cock.

Forehead black. Top oi" head next Forehead bright metallic
bluish green ; behind this a patch of bright nietallie piirj)l(>.
Cheeks and line over eye black. Centre of throat and np|)er
portion of breast metallic gohUin green. On each side of
throat, below cheeks, line of bluish metallic-green. (jJreen on
breast ends in a strip of prussian-blue; feathers edged with
eriniHon. Lower half of breast, belly, and vent dark sepia.
Back of head, neck, back, wing-coverts, rump, and tail durk
brown tinged with gold. Wings very dark sepia. Iijycs dark
brown. Cock. Legs and feet black. [(Jinny ris unyolensis,
Less. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 1(52.]

115 and 11 (5. Warblers.

Top of head elaret-grcy tinged with brown. Neck and
upper half of back reddish brown. Lower half of back and
rump bright reddish l)ro\vn. Line above and below eye white.
Line from beak to eye black. Cheek light reddish brown.
Line of white under checks. Throat white, with line of black
on each side. Breast white, streaked with very dark greyish
brown. Belly and vent white. Sides lighter reddish brown.
Tail, uppersidc, upper half bright reddish brown, extremity
black ; four outer feathers on each side tipped with white.
Wings very dark brown, almost black, with feathers tdged with
very light brown. Two bars of white-tipped feathers across
shoulder of wing. Hens. Eye dark brown. [Erijihropiiy'iti,
rnficuiula, Sharpe ; Shelley, t. c. p. lot).]

117. Small Finch. Cock.

Forehead, cheeks, throat, breast, belly, and vent rose-madder.
Top of head, neck, back, and wing- coverts dark olive brownish
grey. AVings very dark greyish brown. Tail black. Cock.

OJlXTTIIOLOar.

421

Kvcs (lark icddisli hrowu. [Xujrita h'lcitlor, Marti.; Slielley,
t. c. p. K).').]

118. DovK.

[CludcoiK'lia afra (L.) ; Slielley, t. e. p. 1(11).]

111). Small Finch.

Same as no. .'JO. lien. [S/j('ntiestK"s //oaisis (I'ras.).]

liJO. Sfaukow.

Hon. [Passer (iifJKsus, Smith; Shelley, t. c. p. Kit.]

121. Small Finch, lien.

Top of head, neck, back, wing-coverts, and tail dark olive-
<;reen. Unm|) li^ht olive-jijreen. Clieeks and npper part of
throat lifj:ht pinkish brown. Throat, breast, belly, and vent
lireyish olive-green. A few black feathers with white spots on
breast. ^Vings dark olive-green. lien. Eyes hazel. IJeak
crimson. [Pptefia schleifvli, Sharpe ; Shelley, t. c. p. IGo.]

122. Crow-likk liiRi). Cock.

Fyes crimson. [Onychofjnalhus huriUmhi, (Jray; Shelley,
t. c. p. 104.]

128 and 121. Sun-birds. Cocks.

Toj) of head, nj)per half of throat, and lower half of back
bright metallic bluish green. Cheeks, neck, back, and rump
metallic prussian-blue. Lower half of throat, breast, belly, and
vent dirty white. A tuft of bright crimson-orange on each
side of ))reast. Wings black ; feathers edged w ith bright
metallic green. Tail dee]) prussian-blue. Eyes very dark
brown. Legs and feet black. [^Antltotitreptcis aurantia, Vcrr. ;
Shelley, t. c. p. 10.'3.]

12o. SuN-iuKu. Hen.

Forehead pale yellowish olive-green. Top of head, neck,
back, and rump light ashen brown. Wings ashen brown ;
feathers edged with pale olive-green. Throat and upper half
of breast a dirty whitish yellow. Breast, belly, and vent a pale
olive-yellow. Tail-coverts metallic green. Tail dark blue,
edged with metallic green, F]ycs dark brown. lY'ct and legs
black. \Anthothrt'ptes aurantia, Ycrr. ; Shelley, t. c. p. 103.]

!•*■'

.1^'!

i^I:

I M'.k'^t'J

^^^.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

11.25

■ 2.2

1.4 11.6

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716)872-4503

422

STOItr OF Till-: REAR COLUMN.

120. SiT\-niRi). Hcii.

Top of" head, buck, neck, rump, and wing-covcrts very dark
olivc-grccii. Throat dirty ycllowisli wliitc. Jircast, l)cllv, and
vent pale greyish olive-green. A ttit't of bright lemon on cacli
side of breast. Wings dark greyish brown ; feathers ed"-c(l
with olivcsgreeu. Tail black ; feathers edged with olive-«'recn.
Hen. Eves dark brown. Feet and legs black. [Ciiinyr'ni
ohscurus (Jard.) ; Shelley, t. c. p. 162.]

It will be seen from the foregoing pages that Mr. Jameson
was a carefnl and obsirvant naturalist; and there is no doubt
that had his opportunities for collecting been greater, and lind
he been less overshadowed by the weight of responsibility at the
YambuyaCamp, we should have received from him a still f;reat( r
increase of our knowledge of the ornithology of the Upper Congo.
As it is, the collecti(m has added many important details to the
geographical distribution of the West-African Avifauna. Not
the least interesting of the new facts brought forward in tlii>
collection is the indication of the route followed by some of
our European species on their way to their winter home in
South Africa, such as the Common Flycatcher, the Great
Sedge-Warbler, the Curlew Sandpiper, &c.

I must not forget to add that Mrs. Jamct^on has, with the
utmost liberality, presented to the British Museum every sped-
men from her late Imsband's collection which was considered to
be of value to that Institution.

LWTOMOLOay.

42 c3

LIST OF COLKOPTERA

COLLECTED BV MR. JAMESON' ON

THE AllUWlMI.

H. W. BATKS, F.K.S., F.r.S., ,:wj.

[The CiirculinnidfC have been iiaiufd ami dt'scribod by Mr. TF. W. SiMPEON,
who has paid eapirial atlfiitiou to this family.]

Fam. CARA BID/1-:.
Tefflus Jamesoxi, Bates, n. sp.

T. Raffrayi (Chaud.) affiiiis, sod dift'crt, inter alia, corpore toto
glabro. Niger, thorace sat angusto, liexagono, supra grosse
confluenter et subrugcso punctato, latcribiis postice levitcr
sinimtis, angulis posticis obtiisis; elytris graciliter ovatis,
utrinque acute sexcostatis, costis projje apicein 2-fi et .3-5
coujuuctis, iuterstitiis multo grossius (juam in cseteris spe-
ciebus transverso-foveolatis et granulis nu'dianis inter se valde
<listantibus. Subtiis hevissimus ; tibiae anticac extusrectie;
atitennjc sicut in T. violaceo graciles ; irons inter oculos et in
sulcis longitudinalibus rngoso-punetata, medio et antice laevi,
sutura epistomali distincta.

Long. 35 millim.

This species belongs to the group defined by Kolbe as having
(besides the raised suture) only six carinae on each elytron, and
differs from the other species of the group in the absence of
pilosity and the very coarse sculpture and widely-spaced line of
granules in the interstices. The thorax is nearly as long as it
is broad, the median dilatation is strongly angular, and the
sides behind the angle obli(nu* (very slightly sinuated) to thi'
hind angles, which arc therefore obtuse as in T. Raffrnt/i, and not
rcctangidar as in T. Juvenilis, from which also the species ditfers
in the perfectly smooth cpisterua.

iL: Jliijj. I'i

424

SfTOnr OF THE ItEAli COLUMN,

MM'

^ill

Mi
Jill, I

lam. DYNASTlDifi,

ArcHON CVATAUKL'is, Fabi'.

Fam. CETONIID/E.
Smaraodesthks mutica, Harold.

Fam. EllOTYLIDiB.
LiNODESMUs cEcus, Fabr.

Fam. LAMIID.E.
Sternotomis reoalis, Fabr.

VoLUMNIA WESTERMANM, TllOmsOn.

Fam. CUKCULIONID.^.
Xexostes (Lithinid.k), nov. gen.
Rostrum longer than the head, slightly convex, very robust,
somewhat narrowed at base, and much thickened at apex;
scrobes deep, abruptly curved and confluent beneath. Antennae
rather short, very robust, pubescent ; scape a little swollen at
apex and inserted in the middle of the rostrum ; joints of
funiculus cylindrical and rather indistinctly separated, the first
two a little longer than the others; club very large, obtuse.
Eyes long and narrow. Prothorax convex, a little broader than
long, with the sides slightly produced before the middle;
straightly truncate at base. Elytra oval, convex. Legs mode-
rately long, robust; the anterior and intermediate coxae con-
tiguous; femora a little clavate; tibia obtusely ungulate at
apex. Tarsi nioderately long, spongy beneath. Abdomen elon-
gate, its second segment a little longer than the two following,
and separated from the first by a straight suture.

Xexostes Jamesoni, n. sp.

Sub-elongate, covered above with yellowish-brown and white
scales. Rostrum rugose above, with sparse ferruginous setae at
apex, and a deep lateral f uirow in front of the eyes ; separated
fron the head by a fine transverse groove. Prothorax with
small shining black tubercles and a short longitudinal ridge in
the middle ; its constricted anterior portion nearly smooth, and
defined posteriorly by a series of deep irregular transverse
irrooves. Elytra narrow at base, gradually dilated at the sides

ENTOMOLOdY.

425

to about the middle, nonvex above, nearly vertically dcolivous
at apex, irregularly covered with squamose ])rotub(M*aiiees
crowiied with small shining black tubercles (similar to those on
the prothorax), and pn^senting a large elevation on either side of
the suture at the commencement of the declivity, which is
clothed with ashy scales, and has two sutural scries of small
black shining tubercles; apex truncate. Abdomen and legs
densely clothed with fulvous scales. Long, (rostr. excl.) 18
mm., lat. 9A mm.

LlXUS COARCTATUS, Klug.

Rhvncophorus pnu-Aicis, Fabr.

OXVOPISTHEN PVOIDIALE, U. sp.

Elongate, depressed, black, shining, with a silvery spot on the
epiraera, and longitudinal bands on the sides of the mcta-
sternum, the first abdominal segment, and pygidium.

Rostrum smooth, shining, with two narrow slightly punctured
grooves above, originating just beyond the eyes, and deepening
towards the apex. Antennae shining ; scape cylindrical ; joints
of funiculus of equal length. Head very finely punctured.
Prothorax conical, much flattened above, rather dull, closely
and deeply puuctured, and with a fine longitudinal line in the
middle. Scutellum oblong-ovate. Elytra a little broader than
l)rothorax at base, slightly attenuated towards the apex, some-
what depressed, shining, and with rather coarsely puuctured
striae; interstices smooth and flattish ; the second interstice is
interrupted near the disc by two obscure depressions. Pygi-
dium conical, finely punctured, carinate, the carina somewhat
produced at apex. Underside and legs of u brilliant black;
metasternum and abdomen finely punctured; the first segment
of the abdomeu rather more coarsely so in the middle ; femora
beneath clothed with fulvous setye. Long, (rostr. excl.) I'i
mm., lat. 3^ mm.

$ . Pygidium more acutely produced at apex ; posterior tibia
toothed near the base, and somewhat longer than in the male.

This species is allied to 0. imea-albu, Thorn., but is easily
distinguished by the absence of any white markings ou the
prothorax and elytra.

2 ff

^'li 1

420

STORY Ob' TJI/'J RKAli COLUMN,

LEPIDOPTERA RlIOrALOCERA.

F. D. GODAfAN, F.R.S., and OSBERT SALVIN, T.R.S.

The collection of Butterflies made by the late Mr. James S.
Jameson during the expedition undertaken for the relief ol"
Emin Pasha has been submitted to ns by Mrs. Jameson for
determination.

The collection contains about 218 specimens belonf^inp; to
132 species. So far as wc can now determine, it Mas formed
cither in the valley oE the Lower Congo between Matadi
and Stanley Pool, or at the camp at Yambuya on the Aruwinii
river.

The very adverse conditions under which the specimens were
collected and the subsequent treatment they must have under-
gone after Mr. Jameson's death account for the smallncss oi'
the collection, as from some of the notes in the foregoing
diary it is evident that many more specimens must have bcoii
preserved than ever reached Mrs Jameson's hands.

Mr. Jameson made notes of his captures, and numbered each
specimen on the paper containing it ; but the numbers have in
many cases been lost, so that we are unable to collate the
specimens with the notes except in comparatively few instances.

The general relationship of the Butterflies of the Congo
Valley, as shown in this collection, is evidently with the Tro-
pical portion of the West Coast of Africa, many of the species
being the same as those found at Calabar, the Cameroous, and
other neighbouring places ; and some of these, such as Papilio
hesperus and P. zalmoxis, are characteristic of the region.

Further researches will, no doubt, prove this great valley
of the Congo to be one of the richest of the whole of Africa
in the variety of its natural produ(jfeions.

KNTOMOLOUr.

42;

At present the snhjeet lina been searecly touehed by tlie
cnlleetor, and it is greatly to be regretted that so anhMit a
naturalist as Mr. Jameson sliouhl have Iiad so few opportunities
for following his studies, and that so small a portion of his
collections should have reached this eountry.

RHOPALOCERA.
Fam. NYMIMIALID/E.
Snbfam. 1)anain;K.
1 Amauris vashti.
Danuis vashti, 13ntl. Cist. Ent. i, p. i.

Amauris vashti, Butl. Lep. Kx. p. 54^, t. .*21. f. 1; II. G.
Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 467.

Hab. Nkalama 11., April 18th. No. (J.'i. "Very scaree ;
deep forest on river-bank."

One specimen, agreeing with the type from Old ('alabar, and
with other examples in our collection from the Cameroon
Mountains.

2. Amauris niavius.

Papilio niavius, Linn. Mus. Ulr. p. 2.")3 ; Clerek, Icon. t. 32.
f. 2.

Hab. Yambuya Camp, Aruwimi River.

One example agreeing with others from various placres on the
West Coast.

3. Amauris £oialea.

Papilio egialea. Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 192. f. D.
Amauris egialea, H. (i. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 467.
Hab. Near Mswata. No. 22. " Kather scarce. Distributed
generally along the river."
One specimen.

4. Amauris damocles.

Papilio damocles, Pal. Beauv. Ins. Afr. et Am. p. 239, t. 6.
ff. 3, a, b.

Amauris damocles, 11. (i. Smith. P. Z. S. 1890, p. 4()7.

Hab. Inkissi R., April lOth. No. 31. " Scaree, usually met
with in deep shady foresv."

A singie speeimen, with more v bite at the ba>e of the seeon-

'.l V '1

^•■■■'

428

UTOliY OF THE liKAR COLUMN .

(luries than shown in Pulisot de Bcauvois's figure, but a'Mi'cinir
with many West-Coast specimens.

5, Danais pktiverana.

Du/iain Hnunuce, var. petiveruna, Doubl. & Hew. (Jen. Dinni.
Lep. p. IKi, t. 12. f. 1.

Tintmala petiveruna, II. (i. Smith, P. Z. S. 181)0, p. 4(ir.
Hub. Yainbuya Camp and Cungu Valley.
Two examples, without nnui])ers.

(). Danais ciirysippus.

Papilio chrysippusj Linn. Mus. Ulr. p. 2G3 ; Cram. Pap K\.
t. 118. ff. B, C.

Hab. Mpalaballa, 27th March. No. 21. "Conunon aloi^
the whole march."

A single male specimen, without a trace of white ou tlu;
secondaries.

Subfam. S a t y r i n ;«.

7. Melanitis leda.

Me/anUh leda (Linn.) ; H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 472.
Hab. Inkissi River. No. 3. " Decidedly scarce, only a few
seen in the deep shade of the forest."

8. IniOMOKPHUS NANODES.

Idiomorphus nanodes, II. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 172.

Hab. Yambnya Camp.

Also in Mr. Bonny's Collection.

9. MyCALESIS AURICRUDA.

Mycalesis auricruda, Butl. Cat. Sat. Brit. Mus. p. 131, t. 3.
f. G.

Hub. Vombo. No number.

A single specimen, agreeing with Mr. Butler's type in tin;
British Museum.

10. Mycalesis safitza.

Mycalesis safitza, Hew. Gen. Dium. Lep. p. 39 1-, t. GG. f. 3;
Ex. Butt. Myculesis, t. i. f. 4-.

Hab. Vombo, April Cth. No. 45. " Commonest of this genus
in shaded sp-.Z-s."

hWTOMdLOOr,

420

1 1. Mycalksis, s|). f

Ifnh. Kimbamwanga, 10th April. No. r>2. ''Common."

A single specimen, in very worn condition.

1^. VpTIIIMA ITONIA?

Ypthima itnnia, Ilew. Trans. Knt. Soc. ser. 2, ii.p. !2Sr, t. 18.

f. 13.

Ha/K Near Mswata. No. St. " Very srarcr in open paths."
.'\ single specimen, agreeing fairly with a Zanzibar example

M-liich we attribute to 1'. iionia, the type of which came from

the " White Nile."

13. Ypthima, sp. ?

Hab. Vombo, April 6th. No. 19. " Common.'*
A single specimen, in bad condition, agreeing with one in
our collection from the Cameroons.

Snbfam. A c r iH i n .v..

14. ACK^A VKSTALIS,

Acrofd vestuUs, Feld. Keise d. Nov. Lep. p. 309, t. U\.
ff. 8, 9.

Hab. Mwembi, 6th April. No. 13. "Common."
A single female speeimen.

15. AcRiEA PSEUDErttYTA.

Acraa pseudeuryta, Staud. in litt.

Wings dark brown, primaries crossed by a wide tawny band,
the inner edge of which pa.sscs the end of the cell to a little
beyond the middle of the inner margin and is sharply defined
and very undulating, the outer edge at first passes towards the
middle of the outer margin, and then curves round towards the
anal angle, where it is deeply dentate ; the whole of the distal
area of the secondaries is tawny, sharply defined along the
inner border, Avhich includes a row of dark spots, outwardly
the tawny colour gradually blends into the outer border, and is
clearly marked by the dark nervules and a dark line on each
interspace, that below the first submedian branch being double.
Beneath the primaries are paler than above ; the secondaries
are paler brown at the base and marked with a number of
marly round, clearly defined black spots, a light band crosses

^,.

4oU

sr(JJi'y Oh' THE lillAR COLUMN.

the win;^- beyond the fell, and, ns well as tlie (n\ter |)ortion of
the iviiig, is tlivi(U'(l by (hirk iiervuh>s and a (hirk line on each
interspace; the abdomen tawny, with dark brown transverse
marks, cspeeially towards the proximal end ; the thorax, pio-
tliorax, and head dark brown spotted xvitli white.

Uiih. Vambnya (?amp. No. TH, <y. " On river-banks."
A distinct s])ecies, allied to A. rto'i/fa (Linn.), ])ut dilleriny; in
the darker brown colour ol' the win^^s, the wider tawny l)anil
of th(! primaries, the greater extent ol' the tawny diseal ana ut
the fcccondarits, and their darker and more sharply defined
base; the outer border, especially towards the apical anjj;le, is
nuu'h darker, and the dark ncrvurcs and the intermediate lines
much more clearly defined.

Dr. Staudinger, to whom we submitted the single male speci-
men before us, rightly, we think, considers it separable from
A. t'uryta, and suggested the name we employ.

10. ACU.I'IA KLO.\(JATA.

PliiiH'inu vloiii/atUy JJutl. Cist. Ent. i. p. Jil2.

Acraa euritu, Hew. Ex. Lep. Acrwa, t. 5. ff. Ji8, 30.

Hah. Congo Valley. No number or special locality.

A female specimen, agreeing with others in our collection
from the Cameroons. The inner margin of the primaries is
dark brown and not tawny as in llewitson's figure of the female
leferrcd by Mr. Butler to this species.

17. AcRiT.A PSEUDEOINA.

Papilio eginu, Stoll, Suppl. Cram. t. 25. ff. 3, 3 c (nee Cram.).

Acrtea psei((lef/i?ia,\\cstyv . in Doubl. & Hew. Gen. Diurn. Le[).
]). 531.

Hub. Banza Alanteka, 1st April ; Kimbamwango, 10th April.
Nos. 0, 12. *' Common in great variety. Kiver-banks and all
oi)cn spaces.'*

Two females, with the subapical spot on the primaries rather
large.

18. AcKi£A KOGERSI.

Acrcba rogersi, Hew. Ent. Monthly Mag. x. p. 57.
Hub. Congo Valley.
A single small specimen.

ESTOMOLOdV.

4:;f

19. ArR.FA ()I(IN\.

Acrtea orina, I lew. Knt. Monthly Maj;. xi. p. l.^() ; Kx. Butt.
Arraa, t. 7. fl'. V.\, \H.

Huh. Conijo valU'V.

A 8iii<;lo oxaini)lo, which anjrccs with Howitson's types from
FrriiaiuU) Po.

20. AcK.ua tKlMIEU.S.

Papi/io repheiis, Linn. Mns. Ulr. p. 252 ; (Merck, Icon. t. 43.
f. 4.

Acr(pa ccphcns, II. (}. Smith, V. Z. S. IHDO, p. Kin.

//«/>». HoIoIm), Congo VaUey. No spcciiil locality, and no

nnmher.

A male and two females.

21. iVcR-l'.A DEJANA, Sp. n.

Acrau drceis, H. (i. Smitli, P. Z. S. 18!)0, p. 400 (nee
Drnry).

Allied to A. circeis of Drnry, hnt (litters in the j^freater
width of the yellow discal patch of the secrondaries, its ontcr
marj^in heing curved and subparallel to the outer margin of the
wing instead of nearly straight and transverse ; the primaries
have white scales within tlie scmihyaline subapical sj)ots, there
is also a patch of scales within the cell, and a large one between
the first and second submedian branches, but hardly any below
the first branch. A. clrceis luis only two spots on the primaries,
and tliese are yellowish ; the smaller is between the first and
second median branches, and the larger is below the first branch
near the anal angle; the insect, too, appears to be of larger
size.

Hah. Congo Valley, no special locality.

We have several specimens closely allied to that now de-
scribed, but presenting slight dittercnecs which prove to be
specific ; these, again, represent two forms, one from Angola
and one from Fernando Po. They all dift'er from the true
A. circeis in having more spots on the primaries and a larger
yellow diseal patch on the secondaries. We thus have evidence
of at least four lorms of this section of Acreea, but at present
we content ourselves with describing the one represented m
the present collection.

iiii

! ';

132

ST(JJty OF TIIK hi: Mi I 01 VMS.

'22. ArKTA i,Y< ().\.

Antra lyvoa, (Jodl. line ^^t•tIl. ix. p. 230.

Ildh, Coiijfo Vallry. No niinibrr an<l no special locnlitv. A
dnnui{;f('(l specimen, ajjieeing with others in our collection thus
named.

23. Acil.KA ( YOONIA.

Acrten cffdanin, Ward, Knt. Monthly Ma}?' ^- !'• •">9 ; H. (I.
Snnth, P. /. S. IHIM), p. \(U\.

Hah. Inkissi River, IGth April. No. 30. " (letierallv com-
mon in shady j^ladcs."

Three specimcus, agreeing; with others thus named in our
collection.

21. ACH.I'.A i; POX IN A.

Papilio eponina, Cram. Pap. Kx. t. 2()S. ff. A, B.

Avrtca epoaina, 11. (r. Smith, P. Z. S. 181)0, p. 106.

Iltih. Vomho, April Oth.

Two specimens, one agreeing closely with Cramer's figure ;
in the other the common fuscous baud is united to the costal
band of tiic primaries at its distal cud.

2r>. ACH ICA SKREXA.

Acrmi Hereiiu (Fabr.), II. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 106.
Papilio eponina, ? , Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 208. ff. C, D.
Hub. Congo Valley. No precise locality and no number.

Subfam. N y m r n a l i \ m,

26. Lachnoptkha iolk.

Papilio iole, Fabr. Sp. Ins. ii. p. 78.

Lui luioptoti iole, Doubl. & Hew. Gen. Diurn. Lep. p. 161,
t '>2 f 2

Hub. Inkissi River, April 16th.
One male specimen.

27. Atella phalantha.

PapiHo phalantlta, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. i. p. 41, t. 21. ff. 1, 2.
Atella colnmhina, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 407.
Hab. Inkissi River, April 10th.
A pair of this conimon species.

h'MOMoLoay,

4:;3

iJS. TTVPAVARTIA nEMr«.

Pajti/iu (k'/iuM, Diuiy, 111. ICx. Kiit. iii. p. 17, t. 1 I. fl. 5, 6.

Yanibuya ('uiii().

Two HpccimciiH.

'2\). Jl'NOMA WKSTKRMAWI.

Junonia wcsterinfitini, Wcstw. Knt. Mcuitlily Mug. vi. p. 278.
I/afj, Vuinhtiya Ciiini).
Two cxuraplcs.

30. Junonia clkma.

Junonia cMia (Oam.), II. Ci. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 107.
No special locality and uo uuinber.

31. PllKl Is TI.KKA.

Pnfiilio terea, Drury, III. Ex. Eiit. 11. j). 32, t. 18. ff. 3, 4.
Hub. Hauza Maiitcka, April 1st. No. 77,
Three examples.

32. PllKClS PELASOIS.

Vanessa pelusff is, (rodt. Knc. Meth. ix. Suppl. p. 820.
Precis pelas(/is, Trim. S. AlV. Butt. i. p. 230.
Hub. Inkissi River, April lOtli. No. 8.
" Scarce, in bright open glades.'

33. Pkecis SOPHIA.

PdpiUo Sophia, Fabr. Eut. Syst. iii. p. 2!8; Hon. Tns. Tnd.
t. 30. f. 3.

Hub. Congo Valley.

One example. No special locality and no number.

34. Salamis etiiyha.

Safamis ethyru, Feisih. Ann, Soc. Ent. Fr. 1850, p. 2r)0.
Hab. Inkissi River, April 10th.

35. Salamis (acta.

Salamis cacta (Fabr.^, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 407.
Hah. Aruwimi River. No. 79, a.
" Not observed on the Congo.'*

I ;

; i

U"t

484

STORY OF THE HEAR COLUMN.

36. Salamis an'acar:)!!.

Papilio anacurdii, Linn. Syst. Nat. i. p. 755.

Sala/nis naacnrdii, H. (i. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. \ffT,

Hab. Yurnbuya Camp.

37. EUBYTELA OPIIIONE.

PapHio ophioiw, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 114. ff. E, P.
Hab. Mswata, April Kith.

38. EURYTELA ETHOSEA.

Papilio cthosca, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent, iii. p. 51, t. 37. ff. 3, 4.
Hab. Cow^o Valley.

A single specimen, witli hardly any indication of the usual
discal spot on the primaries.

39. EURYTEL/ IHARBAS.

Papilio lnarba.s, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. iii. p. 17, t. 14. ff. 1, 2.
Eunjtela hiarha.^, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 473.
Hab. Congo Valley.

40. Ergolis enotrea.

Papilio enotrea, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 236. ff. A, B.
Ergolis enotria, II. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 473.
Hab. Congo Valley.

41. IIypanis ilithyia.

Papilio ilithyia, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. ii. p. 29, t. 17. ff. 1, 2.
Hypunis ilithyia, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1891), p. 473.
Hab. Nkalama River, April 18th. No. 44.
" Common on river-banks and open glades."

42. CrENIS CONCORDIA.

Hiirma Concordia^ Hopff. ]Monatsb. k. Ak. Wiss. Berl. 1855,
p. 611 ; Peters, Reise n. Mossamb. p. 391, t. 22. tf. 3, 4.
Hab. Congo Valley.
A single male specimen.

43. CrENIS PECHUELII.

Crenis peclntelii, Dewitz, Nov. Act. Ac. C. L.-C. Nat. Cur. xli.
(2) no. 2, p. 195, t. 26. f. 1.
Hab. Mswata, April 16tli. No. 26.
" Common on high open ground away from rivers."

Nat. Cur. xli.

ENTOMOWOr,

435

41. Crkn'ts vadimonis.

Crenis vadhuofiis, Druce, Ent. Monthly Mag. xiv. p. 226.
Crenis ribbei, Dewitz, Nov. Act. Ac. C L.-C. Nat. Cur. xli.
(2) no. 2, p. 190, t. 20. f. 3 (1879).
Hab. Kimbamwanga, Congo Valley.

45. Crenis amulia.

Papilio amulia, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 180. ff. C, D.
Hab. Mpwka River, April 11th. No. 73.

46. CkENIS BENOrilLiE.

Crenis benyuelee, Chapman, Ent. Monthly Mag. viii. p. 175.
Hab. Congo Valley.

47. Hypolimnas salmacis.

PapHio salmacis, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. ii. p. 14, t. 8. fF. 1, 2.
Hypolimnas salmacis, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 469.
Hab. Upper Congo, Yamhuya Cam}).

48 Hypolimnas anthedon.

Diadema anthedon, Doubl. Ann. Nat. Hist. xvi. p. 181 ;
Donbl. & Hew. Gen. Diurn. Lep. t. 37. f. 2.

Hab. Yambuya Camp.

This also varies slightly from the figure, the transverse band
of the primaries being narrower and the dark outer border of
the secondaries wider than in Hewitsou's figure.

49. Hypolimnas staxleyi.

Hypolimnas stanhyi, Ii. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 467.
Hab. Yambuya Camp.
One male specimen.

50. Hypolimnas dubius.

Papilio dubius, Pal. Beauv. Ins. Afr. et Am. p. 238, t. 6. f. 2,
a, b.

Hypolimnas dubius, IT. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 409.

Hab. Vombo, April 6th. No. 53.

A single specimen, agreeing with a dark form of this species j
common on the West Coast.

51. PsEUDACR.'EA LUCRETIA.

Papilio luci'etia, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 45. S. C, D.
Hab. Yambuya Camp.

436

STORY OF TUF REAR COLUMN,

.' 'i

52. PsEUDACIl.'KA IIOSTILIA.

Papilio hostilia, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. iii. p. 38, t. 28. fS. 5 6.
Hab. Nkalama River, April 18th.

53. PsEUDACRiTlA SEMIIIE.

Papilio semire, Cratn. Pap. Ex. t. 194. ff. B, C.
Hab. Congo Valley. No special locality.

54. Catuna critiiea.

Papilio crithea, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. ii. p. 29, t. IG. ff. 5, 6.
ItRva crithea, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 409.
Hub. Congo Valley.

55. Catuna duodecimpunctata.

la^ra duodecimpunctata, Snell. Tijdschr. Ent. xv. p. 15, t. 1.
ff. 1, 2 (1872).

Aterica cforuna, Druce, Trans. Eiit. Soc. 1871, p. 157,
Hab. Congo Valley.

56. Neptis jamesoni, sp. n.

Male. Above brownish black ; nearly the whole of the cell
(the lower and apical portions of which are bluish) , seven more
or less elongated spots beyond the cell from the costa to the
inner margin (that next the costa small and narrow, less than
half the second and thiid, the fourth very small and roundish,
the fifth oval, the sixth roundish, and the seventh next the
inner margin large and bifid), white; four submarginal lines
whitish, the innermost and that next the costa faint : secon-
daries with a wide transverse white band deeply indented on
its lower margin ; four submarginal bands, the innermost dusky,
the rest whitish, the third from the margin widest. Underside
as above but paler, and all the white marks and the submar-
ginal lines clearer; the spot over the cell of the primaries is
divided towards its distal end by two transverse black lines ; the
base of the costa of both wings and two subparallel curved
bands towards the base of the secondaries white.

Hab. Congo Valley. No special locality.

A conspicuous species, not very nearly allied to any that we
are acquainted with, but perhaps closer to N. nebroden, Hew.,
than to any other known Neptis.

ENTOMOLOGY.

437

57. Neptis nemetes.

Ncptis nemetes, I lew. Ex. Butt. Neptis, ff. ], 2; II. G. Smith,
P. Z. S. 1890, p. 467.
Hab. Congo Valley.

58. Neptis aoatiia.

Papi/io agatha. Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 327. ff. A, B.
Neptis agatha, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 4G7.
Hab. Vombo.

59. Neptis, sp.

A single -specimen, in poor condition ; allied to N. nicomedes^
Hew.

Hab. Congo Valley.

60. Euryphene mandinga.

Euryphene viandinga, Fcld. Wien. ent. Mod. iv. p. 108; H.
G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 409.

Hab. Congo Valley ; no special locality.

61. Euryphene mardania.

Papilio murdimia, Fabr. Ent. Syst. iii. p. 249.
Hab. Congo Valley.

62. Euryphene sophus.

Papilio sophus, Fabr. Ent. Syst. iii. p. 46.
Euryphene sophus, Doubl. & Hew. Gen. Diurn. Lep. t. 43.
f. 4.

Hab. Yambuya Camp, March 7th.
A single female example.

Q'^. Euryphene, sp.

Hab. Congo Valley. A male and female, without special
locality.

We have been unable to find a name for this bntterfly, which
is allied to E. doralice, Hew. We hesitate, however, to name
it, SI eing that the genus is in considerable confusion.

64. F^uryphene, sp. ?

Hab. Congo Valley. No special locality.

A female, similar to E. ararnis, Hew., but with the buff spots
of the upper suri'acc of the wings replaced by crimson; that of
the primaries extends nearer to the base of the wings.

■di

438

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN,

65. RoMAL^OSOMA MEDON ?

Papi/io ttiedon, Linn.

Hub. Congo Valley. Four males and a female.

Doubtfully referable to this species. The males difTer con-
sider.ibly from one another, two of them being of the form
described by Mr. Butler as R. viridinota.

66. Romal/j:osoma, sp. ?

Hub. Congo Valley. A male and female, without exact
locality.

Allied to R.xypete, Hew., but with the underside of the wings
much less distinctly marked.

67. Romal^osoma, sp. ?

Hab. Congo Valley. A single male specimen, without special
locality.

Dr. Staudinger, to whom we sent this specimen, considers it
to be between R. inanum, Butl., and R. rana, Stand.; but that,
without a series of specimens, it was not desirable to describe it.

68. Romal^osoma ruspina.

Romaleeosoma rvspina, Hew. Ex. Butt. Roiuataosoma, t. 2.
flf. 6, 7 ; H. G. Smith, P. Z S. 1890, p. 470.
Hab. Congo Valley. No special locality.

69. Atekica afer.

Papilio afer, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. iii. p. 49, t. 36. ff 1, 2.
Hab. Yambuya Camp.

70. Aterica cupavia.

Papilio cKpavia, Cram. Pap. Ex. 't. 193. fF. E, F.
Aterica cvpavia, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 189Q, p. 469.
Huh. Above Mswata, May 7th, and Aruwimi River.

71. Aterica, sp. ?

Hab. Nkalama River, April 18th.

A female specimen of a species allied to A. veronica.

72. Cymothoe theoeosia. *
Cy mot hoe theodosia, Stand.

Cymothce theodota, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 471.
^ . Similar to C. theodota^ but the dark outer border of both
primaries and secondaries less clearly defined, the submarginal

ENTOMOLOGY

439

Mli

lout exact

liinules Vcinpj thus more conspicuous ; the secondaries have tlie
outer bonier more sinuated. The female is very similar to that
{•ex of C. theodota, hut tlie interior of the secondaries is creamy
white, and there is no discal tawny patch.
Htib. Aruwimi River.

73. CYMOTiioi-: thkobene.

Harmii theobene, Douhl. & Hew. Gen. Diurn. Lep. t. 40. f. 3.
Cf/mofhop theobena, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 471.
Hub. Congo Valley.

74. Cymotiiop: jodutt.4.

Hannajodiittu, Westw. Gen. Diurn. Lep. p. 289.
Hub. Congo Yullcy. Three males and three females, without
special locality.

75. CvMOTnoiJ cf.Nis

Pupilio cietiis, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. ii. p. 33, t. 19. ff. 1, 2.

JLib. Vombo.

Two males and four females ; the latter all differ from one
another; one of them is very similar to the male, anotlier
resembles the insect figured by Hewitson as Hwma adelinu,
the other two are intermediate between these two extremes.
Whether all really belong to one species must remain an open
question, as the materials are not sufficient to settle the point
satisfactorilv.

76. CvMOTHoi': sangaris.

Nymphalis suiiijuris, Godt. Enc. Meth ix. p. 384 ; Lucas, Lep.
Ex. p. 129, t. GO. f. 2.

Hub. Arnwiiui River.

Three males, all with a common dark transverse band on the
under surface of the wings, a character which appears to sepa-
rate this species from the nearly allied C. roccinata.

77. CvMOTHoii HESIODUS?

Hitrma hesiodus, Hew. Ex. Butt. Hurnia, t. 4. ff. 15-18.

Hah. Aruwimi river.

A single female, either of this or a closely allied species.

78. CUAUAXES CASTOR.

Papilio castor, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 37. ff. C, D.
Churaxes castor, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 472.
Hah. Ai'^wimi River.

Hi;

•;!!!

\n I

440

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

;) !

i'l

79. ChARAXES BRUTUS.

Papilio brulus, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 2 11. ff. E, F.
C/.araxes brutus, H. (i. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 472.
Huh. Aruwimi Kivcr.

SO. ChAHAXES LUCRETIUS.

Pa/iilio lucretius, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 82. ff. E, F.
Hah. Aruwimi River. o

81. Charaxes etesipb.

Nyinphalis etesipe, Godt. Euc. Meth. ix. p. 355.
Chi. raxes etesipe, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 4>72,
Hub. Upper Congo, Aruwimi River.

82. Charaxes tiridates.

Papilio tiridates, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 101. ff. A, B.
Charaxes tiridates, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 472.
Hab. Aruwimi River.

83. Charaxes numenes.

Nymphalis numenes^ Hew. Ex. Butt., NymphuUs, t.'2. ff. 9-11-
Hab. Aruwimi River,

84. Charaxes smaragdalis.

Charaxes smaragdalis, Butl. P. Z. S. 1865, p. 630, t. 36. f. 5 j
Lep. Ex. p. 5, t. 2. f. 1.
Hub. Yambnya Camp.
Two males, agreeing with the type.

85. Charaxes fphyra.

Nt/mpha/is ephyra, Godt. Enc. Meth. ix. p. 355.
Hab. Aruwimi River.

86. Charaxes carteri.

Charaxes carteri, Butl. Ent. Monthly Mag. xviii. p. 108.
Hub. Nkalama River, April 18th.

87. Charaxes candiope.

Nyniphalis candiope, Godt. Enc. Meth. ix. p. 353.
Charaaes candiope, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 472.
Hab. Aruwimi River.

88. Charaxes eupale.

Papilio eupale, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. iii. p. 7, t. 6. f. 3.
Charaxes eupale, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 472.
Hab. Aruwimi River.

ENrojdOLoar.

441

89. Charaxks? zinoiia.

Papilio zingha, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 315. ff. B, C.
Hub. Yambuya Camp.

90. Phiujonoma vahanks.

Papilio varanes, Cram. Tap. Ex. t 100. ff. D, E.
Phihgmma varanes, II. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 472.
Hub. Congo Valley.

Fam. ERYCINID.E.

91. AbISARA HKRWIOIl.

Abisara henvigii, Dewitz, Deutsch. ent. Zeitschr. 1886,
p. 429, t. 2. ff. 1,1«, \b,\c.
Hub. Congo Valley.
A male with no special locality.

Fam. LYC/ENIDiE.

92. Lyc^.na juba.

Papilio juba, Fabr. Mant. Iu.s. p. 82.

Lampides jvba, Butl. Cat. Fabr. Lep. p. 163, t. 2. f. 9.

Hah. Congo Valley.

A male without exact locality.

93. LvCiENA ISIS.

Papilio isis, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. ii. p. 6, t. 3. fE. 4, 5.

Hub. Congo Valley.

A male without special locality.

94. Lyc;ena pulchra.

Lycoina pulcbra, Murr. Trans. Ent. Soc. 1874, p. 524, t. 10.

ff. 7, 8.

Hab. Vonibo.

A pair in poor condition.

95. Lyc^na, sp. ?

One example near L gamra of Lederer,
Hab. Inkissi River, April 16th.

96. LYCi*:NESTHES LARYDAS.

Papilio lanjdas, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 282. f. H.

Hub. Congo Valley.

A male without exact locality.

44:^

1.*

■•;Vii I

tiTOliy (tF TIIIC RKAlt COL (MX,

97. LyrV.NKsTHKS NYI.VANU^.

Papilio Hfilvanus, Driiry, III. Kx. Eut. ii. ]>. 5, t. 3. ff. 2, 3.

Hub. ('ongo Valley.

A male witliimt exact locality.

98. Ly(;/1':nesthks, sp. ?
Huh. Conj^o Val U'y.

A male sju'ciincn.

01). TOLAUS lUI.US.

Joluvs iiiluH, Hew. 111. Diurn. Lep., Snppl. p. 0, t. 4
ff. 41-43.

Hah. Congo Valley.

A damaged male, probably of tbis species, without exact
locality.

100. MvKINA NOMENIA.

Mt/rina nomenia, Hew. Trans. Ent. Soc. 1874, p. 353 ; III.
Diurn. Lep. Suppl. p. 25, t. lih. if. 105, 106.
Hah. Inkissi River, April Kith.

101. Hvroi.YC^lNA ANTIFAUNUS.

h/ans antif annus, Doubl & Mew. Gen. Diurn. Lep. t. 75. f. 1.

Hah. Congo Valley.

A single male specimen, wiiliout exact locality.

102. PlTIIKCOPS E1.0REA.

Papilio elorea, Fabr. I'nt. Syst. iii. p. 194; Don. Nat. Rep.
ii. t. 53.

Huh. Kiliamanga ? (probably Kimbamanga).

A >ingle example agreeing with Donovan's figure.

103. Pentila tachykoides.

Pentila tachyroides, Dewitz, Nov. Act. Ac. C. L.-C. G. Nat.
Cur. xli. pt. 2, no. 2, p. 201, t. 62. f. 5.
Hah. Bolobo.

104. LlPTENA ilma.

Liptena ilma. Hew. Ex. Butt., Pent. 6f Lipt. t. 2. f. 13.
Huh. Near Mswata.

-' I

i '

ENTOMOLOCY. **3

Fnni. PAPILIOMIVE.
Suht'iim. I'l E R I N -«.

lO.'). TKKrAS BUHilTTA.

Piipilio hf'if/iffn, Cnim. Pap. Kx. t. 331. ff. B, C.

/////>. Hanza Mantcka, April 1st.

One cxajnplc, pr()l)al)ly a femalr of this speciet.

1()(). Ti:ill AS SCNKOAI.KNSIS.

'IWias svucyaliaHit, Hoisd. Sp. (Ji'ii. i. p. 072.
H(ih. Con}?o Valley, MpalahalUi, and clsowliere.
Several spceimens, pr()bal)ly ( " this species.

107. PlKRJS DENTIGKUA?

IHcris dcniif/era, IJutl.
Hab. (\m^n Valley.

108. VlKKlS PHAOLA.

Pieris phaohi, Doubl. Ann. Map. Nat. Hist. xx. p. W.

Hub. VAm\to Valley.

109. BeI.KNOIS SYLVIA.

PapiUo sy/ria, Falir. Syst. Ent. p. 470,

Pelerwis 'sy/via, 11. O. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 464.

H(ih. Iiikissi Kiver, April 10th.

110. EUONIA PHARIS. ■

7»?>my/fl!/i.v, Boisd. Sp. Gen. i. p. 443.

Hah. Congo Valley.
One male example.

111. Eronia aroia.

Papilio nr(/ia, Eabr. Syst. Ent. p. 470.

Eronia aryia, 11. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1800, p. 465.

Hah. Congo Valley.

112. Pieris calypso.

PapiUo calypso, Drury, III. Ex. Ent. ii. p. 30, t. 17. flf. 3, 4.
Huh. Congo Valley.

113. Catopsilia pyrene.

Co/ias pyreuc'j Swains. Zool. III. i. t. 51.
Catopsilia pyrene, H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 465.
lab, Cong.) Valley.

^ G Z

444

uTour OF Tiih: ukau column.

Subfam. P a p i l i o n i n ,«.

114. Papimo P()LI(;enk8.
Papllw policenes, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. ',]?. ff. A, B ; II. G Smith

P. Z. S. 1H{)(), p. K)4.

//If/Z>. Inkissi River, April Kith.

115, Papimo antiieus.

Papi/io anthem, Cram. Pap. Ex. t. 234. ff. B, C; II. G. Smith,
P. Z.S. 1890, p. I()l.

Hub. Inkissi River, April KJth.

110. PaPILIO CORINNEUS.

Papilio rorinnens, Herth. Mom. Bologna, p. 9, t. 1. f. 1.
Hab. Iiikifisi River, April Kith.

117. PaI'ILIO LKONIDA8.

Papi/to leonidus, Fabr, Eut. Syst. iii. p. 35 ; H. G. Smith,
P.Z. S. 1890, p. 4()k

Hub. Conjfo Valley. No exact locality.

118. Papilio kidleyanus.

Papilio ridleyunus, White, Ann. Mag. Nat. Hist. xii. p. 262;
1) lubl. & Mew. (ien. Diurii. Lc|). t. 3. f. 3.
Hub. Inkissi River, April 10th.

119. Papilio tyndI':r.*;us.

Papilio (f/H dermis, Fabr. Ent. Syst. iii. p. 35 ; H. G. Smith
P. Z. S. 1890, p. 401..
Hab. Yam buy a Camp.

120. Papilio demoleus.

Papilio demoleus, Linn. Syst. Nat. i. p. 753 ; Cram. Pap. Ex.
t. 231. ff. A, B ; H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 404.
Hab. MpalabalUi, March 27th ; Yambuya Camp.

121. Papilio menestheus.

Papilio menestheus, Drury, 111. Ex. Ent. ii. p. 15, t. 9. ff. 1, 2 ;
H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 464.

Hab. Congo Valley. No special locality.

122. Papilio bromius.

Papilio bromius, Doxihl. Ann. Mag. Nat. Hist. xvi. p. 176;
H. G. Smith, P. Z. S. 1890, p. 464.
Hab. Inkissi River, April 16th.

EXTO.UOLOfjr.

445

123. Papilio kkinum.

Pttjfi/io eriniiHy (J ray, Cat. Lc|). Ins. Brit. Mjim. i. p. 26.

Halt. Inkissi River, April Kith.

121'. PaIMLK) UKSPKIIUS.

Papi/io /u'spn'ns, Westw. Arc. Ent. i. p. 180, t. tS.
Ha/j. C(iU{s,o Valley. No precise locality.

125. Papilio .mkkofk.

Papi/io iticropc?, Cram. Pap. Kx. t. 151. ff. A, B ; H. G.
Smith, P./. S. 1 «'.)(), p. Kil-.

Ifub. Kuilu River, April Hth.

One male specimen, af^reeiiij!; with Sierra Leone examples in
our collection.

120. Papilio zalmoms.

Papiiio za/ifioxis, Hew. Ex. Butt. Papilio^ t. 6. f. 18; H. G.
Smith, P.Z. S. 1890, p. Kll.

Hub. Congo Valley. No precise locality.

Fam. HESPtlRIDiE.

127. ISMKNK FORKSTAN.

Papilio forest an, Criim. Pap. Ex. t. 301. ff. E, F.
Hab. Banza Mantcka.

128. Taoiaoes flesus.

TayiadiH fle.sus, Eabr. Spec. Ins. ii. p. 135.

Papilio ophion, Drury, 111. Ex. iCut. iii. p. 21, t. 17. ff. 1, 2.

Hub. Congo Valley.

129. Pkoteides opiiiusa.

Hesperia ophiusu, Hew. Trans Ent. Soc. ser. 3, ii. p. 497.
Hab. Congo Valley.

130. 131, 132.

There are representatives of three other species of Hesperidae
which, in the present state of the nomenclature of the family,
we cannot determine with certainty.

P'i:

440

uTOiii' t>/' yyy/-; uhAJi column.

LE PI 1)0 PTEU A 11 E rEHOC KRA.

HEKBKUT DllUCE, F.L.8.

Fara. SPIIINOID/E.
Su))fam. M A r K o L <) 8 8 I N iB.

HioMAKis, Dalin.

Hfmaris hylas.

S/f/iifiv hylas, Liiui. Mant. i. p. 5M ).

Hcwiiris hijlns, IJutl. Trans. Zool. Soc. ix. p. 522 ; Dnice,
Moloney's Koicstiy of Western Africa, appendix v. p. lU^i.

One specinicn, captured 27th March. It is identical with
those iti my eolleetiou from the Gambia, Culubur, and
Cameroons.

Mackoolossa, Gehs.

Machoolossa tkociiii.oides.

Mucrofjlussa trocldloides, Butl. P. Z. S. 1875, p. 5 ; Trans.
Zool. Soc. ix. p. 525.

The type in the National Collection is from Sierra Leone ;
the two specimens captured in April by the late Mr. Jameson
arc slif^litly smaller than any I have seen, but they do not differ
in any other point from those 1 have from the Cameroons and
Delagoa IJay.

Subfani. ClIiEROCAMPINiE.

PniLAMPKLUs, Harris.

Philampelus mi:(J/Kka.

Sphinx meyoera, Linn. Mus. Lud. Ulr. p. 358 ; Clerck's
leones, t. 47. f. 2.

Philavipehis wie^ticra, Walk. Cat. viii. p. 179; Butl. Trans.
Zool. Soc. ix. p. 577.

One specimen, that in no way differs from those in my
collection from West Africa, Delagoa Bay, and Madagascar.

h:sr(tM(n.n<n'.

447

Tln'» Mprcics iH very wi<l«ly (li>tti'il)iit(<l in Afrifii, l)iit cxiimplcH
fiotii tlir WcNt Coii.Ht mill the one caiitiin d hy Mr .l.i meson are
larger titan tliusc I liaxc iVotii Natal anil |)(>la;;()a Hay.

Kani. ACJAUISTID.K.
Ku»<t:MiA, Dalni.

ErsKMIA PAM.inA.

Kum iiiia fKillida, Walk. Cnt. i. p. 7)2.

()n(; Hpccinicii that ililVcrs slii^litly tVotii all tliOHo in niv own
collection in having an additional spot on tlic apic.il hand of
the primaries, hnt in one or two oi' the I'enndc spccimuns from
Cape L'almuH the faintest trace of the sp:)t is shown.

Tarn. ZVd.KNlD.K.

Snht'am. T li v a k t i n k.

Sai,iu\(a, Walk.

SaMUN( A TnoUACtCA.

Tijiu/oi/rs'f thinanni. Walk. Cat. vii. p. ITviO.

Su/itinc(/ t/iovacira, Walk. Cat. xxxi. p. lOS; Bntl. .Tonm.
Linn. Soc , Zoid. xii. j) .'i5S.

One example of this heantiful little insect, inneh hrij^hter in
colonr than those from Siena Leone in the National Collection
or than any from Khdu-y in my own collection.

Subfam. K u c ii it o m i i n m.
Euciiiio.Mi.v, lliihn.

EUCIIROMIA FULVIOA.

EuchroniiaJ'ulvida, Ikitl. Trans. Knt. Soc. 18H8, p. 112, t. iv.
f. 5.

Four specimens, captured in March and April. This species
varies slightly in cclour, judging from the twenty specimens
in niv collection from various localities in West Africa.

EUCHROMIA LEOMS.

Kuchruinia honis, Hutl. Journ. Linn. Soc, Zool. xii. p. 3()3 ;
Trans. Ent. Soc. 1888, p. 113.

Two specimens, captured the 18th April, arc identical with
those from Logos, Elobcy, and the Oogowai River in my col-
lection ; they do not vary in the least

448

STORV OF THE HEAli COLUMN.

Fam. ARCTIIDyE.

Areas, Walk.
Areas lutescens.

Spilosoma lutescens, Walk. Cat. iii. p. 672.

Halesidota mundata, Walk. Cat. xxxi. p. 809.

Areafi lutescena, IJutl. Cist. Ent. ii. p. 22.

Also in the National Collection. This species is now placed

in the j^enus Phissama, Moore.

Fam. LITIIOSIID/E.

Ahgina, Tliibn.

Arc.ina cingulifera.

Deiopeia cingulifera, Walk. ("at. ii. p. 509.

Arginu cingulifera, Druoc^ Moloney's Forestry of Western
Africa, api)cn(lix v. p. 495.

One specimen, captured 12th April, in all respects identical
with those from the Gambia, Abyssinia, and Lake Nyassa in
my collection.

Fam. NYCTEMERID.E.

Alexis, Hiibn.
Aletis helcita.

Papilio helcita, Linn. Amoen. Acad. vi. p. -i05 ; Clerck, Icon.
t. 39. f. 4.

Aletis helcita, Walk. Cat. ii. p. 353.

One specimen of this common insect was captured by
Mr. Jameson ; it in no respect difPers from those before me
from the East and West Coasts of Africa.

Fam. SATURNIID^.
BuN.EA, Hiibn.

EuNiBA JAMESONI, sp. n.

Primaries olive-brown, with a hyaline spot at the end of the
cell, a brown line crossing the wing from the costal to the
inner margin near the base on the outer side of the line ; the
wing is thickly irroratcd with purplish M'hite, extending along
the costal margin as far as the cud of the cell. A narrow
purplish-white line, edged on both sides with black, crosses the

is now placed

of Western

?cts idrntical
ie Nyassa iu

Clerck, Icon.

captured by
e before me

3 end of the
tJstul to the
10 line; the
id'uig along
A narrow
, crosses the

ENTOMOLOGT.

440

winf from the apex to the nner m? r ,'in above the anal angle ;
on ^lie outer > Ido of the 1 ne is a ^ 'ide purplish-white band,
which gradually widens fi jm the a )ex to the inner margin;
the outer margin olive-b.own ; ' h ; costal margin near the
apex is irrorated with purplish- while scales. Secondaries olive-
brown, rather darker than the ]n'imarics; the costal margin
from the base to near the apex, but not quite reaching it,
broadly banded with bright rose-pink. A broad line, broadly
edjjed with purplish white, crosses the wing near the base from
the inner margin to the e(\^,e of the pink costal margin ; about
the middle of the wing is a large ocellus, with the central spot
hyaline, round which is a wide ring of bright olive-brown,
broadly bordered with black, which is again bordered with a
wide ring of j)ale dove-colour. A jjurplish-white line, edged on
the outer side with black, crosses the wing below the ocellus
irom the costal margin just above the apex to the inner margin,
considerably above the aual angle, below the line the wing is
broadly irrorated with purplish-white scales ; the underside of
both wings dark brown, thickly irrorated with purplish white
and crossed by a dark brown line ; tiie inner margin of the
primaries from the base to almost the anal angle broadly
bordered with bright rose-pink ; the head, thorax, and abdomen
olive-brown, banded with dark brown; the collar, tips of the
teguhie, and the sides and base of the abdomen pinkish white ;
the imderside of the head and the legs dark brown ; the
antenna} black. Expanse 6^ inches.

A single specimen of this fine and very distinct insect was
captured ; I have named it after its discoverer, the late
Mr. Jameson. The broad i)ink costal margin of the second-
aries at once distinguishes it from all the species known to
me.

Fam. OPHIDERIDiE.
Ophideres, Boisd.
Ophideres divitiosa.

Ophideres divitiosa, Walk. Proc. Nat. Hist. Soc. Glasgow,
i. pp. 326, 356, t. vii. f. 11 ; Druce, Moloney^s Forestry of
Western Africa, appendix v. p. 500.

One specimen, identical with those from Old Calabar and the

450

STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

Canieroons. This species varies considerably in the coli)ur of
the primaries j some of the specimens in tlie large scries Ijcfore
me have a wide green line extending from the apex f, the
inner margin. The si)ecimen captured hy the late Mr. .lamc-
son lu'is no green, which appears to be the normal form from
the Cameroons.

Fam. OMMATOniORIDiE.

Patula, Guen.

Patula walki :R1.

P(iii//a ivalkeri, Butl. Ann. & Mag. Nat, Hist. ser. 4, xvi.
)). [()() ; Druee, Moloney's Forestiy of Western Africa,
a[)pendix v. p. 500.

A specimen in fine condition of this common insect, cajjturt'd
by the late ]Mr. Jameson at the Yambuya Camp, Aruwinii
Itiver, is identical with those from all parts of Tropical Alrica
and Madagascar in niv collection.

■< ■. ;

'11^

Fam. HYPOPYllID.E.
Hypopyka, (iuen.

IlvroPVRA fVPEXSlS.

Hijl)Oj)ijra cupensiit, llerr.-Schafi'. Samml. anssereur. Schmett.
J). 79, li. 121, 1'22 ; Drnce, Moloney's Forestry of AVesteru
Africa, appendix v. ]). 501.

One example, identical with those from the (Jambia and
South Africa in mv collection.

Fam. OPHIUSIDiE.
AcHyEA, Hiibn.

Acn^EA ILLUSTRATA.

Acha'd iHvstnita, Walk. Cat. xiv. p. 1392; Druce, Moloney's
Forestry of Western Afric i, apptndix v. p. 501.

The s})(cimen ca[)turid on the 18th August diifers slightly
from those from the (iambia and Fantee iu my coll(!ctiou : it
is slightly paler in colour, and the markings on the prinnirics
are not so distinct, but I have no doubt it belongs to the same
species, as most of the AclioiOi vary considerably.

ENTOMOLOGY.

451

Fam. EUSCHEMIDiE.
PiTTHEA, AValk.

PlTTIIEA COXTINUA.

Pitt ilea cont'uma, Walk. Cat. ii. p. 103.

One specimen, that in no respect differs from examples from
Laji'os, A(l(l;ih, Cameroons, and the Congo in ray collection.
This sjjccies has a wide range in Western Africa; it has not,
so tar as I kno\v, yet been recorded from East Africa, its place
being taken on the East Coast by Pittheu trifasciuta, Dewitz,
Nova Acta Acad. Nat. Cur. xlvii. p. 82, t. iii. f. 3.

PlTTHEA AGKXORIA, Sp. H.

Piimaries and secondaries deep black, both the wings crossed
bv a semihvaline white band, that on the secondaries not
reaching the outer margin ; the underside the same as above ;
the head, antennie, thorax, abdomen, and legs deep black ; the
collar and the underside of the abdomen bright orange-red.
Expanse Ij inch.

Two specimens of this very distinct species are in the
collection : it is allied to Pitthea trifasciuta, Dewitz, from
which it is at once distinguished by the entire absence of the
apical hyaline band on the piimaries, and by the anal segmeuty
being black instead of yellow as in that species.

cction : it

Fam. SPILOMELIDiE.

Zehroma, HUbu.

Zebroma phexicealis.

Phaltena-Pyrulis Phtnice, Oram. Pap. Exot. iv. p. 185, t. 382.
f. G.

Zthroniu jwiUrulis, Hiibn. Verz. bek. Schmett. p. 361.

Sijilomelu pt cniceaiis, Guen. Sp. gen. des Lep. viii. p. 281.

Spilovtela podaliriulis, Guen. ISp. gen. des Ijep. viii. p. 281.

Zebroniu phenicealis, W^alk. Cat. xvii. p. 476; Druce,
Moloney's l'\)"estry of Western Africa, appendix v. p. 505.

One specimen, identical with those before me from the
G-APibia and the Cameroous.

452

STOUr OF THE EE^iR COLUMN,

Fam. BOTYDIDiB.
BoTYs, Latr.

BOTYS MARGINALIS.

Phalana-Geometra marginuta, Cram. Pap. Exot. iv. p. 243,
t. 400. f. I.

Botia marginata, Swains. Zool. Illustr. ii. t. 77.

Botys marginalis, Guen. Sp. gen. des Lep. vjii. p. 343 ;
Walk. Cat. xviii. p. 633 ; Druce, Moloney's Forestry of Western
Afiiea, appendix v. p. 506.

Two specimens, identical with those from the Gambia,
CameroonSj and Lake Nyassa in my collection.

' i:

Xaixouuto.

( 453 )

MAP OF UPPER CONGO

BETWEEN STANLEY FALLS AND KASSONGO.

A. AxKALftr.A. — Native village, or group of villag:.3 (all groups d

villages being called by one name). FrieiuUy natives in
Tippu-Tib's territory.

B. First RAPina above Stanley Falls. — Unless these rapids are very

bad, loads need not be removed from the caijocs, hithcrujih all
extra men are put out. Natives are always ready to piluo
the canoes over the rapids for one eshoka, or native axe, for
each canoe. The road round the rapids is only bad in heavy
rains, but it requires cleariug from heavy creepers, lload
one hour fast walking.

C. Yank^wi::. — Native group of villages in the territory of Kibouffe.

the Arab chief of the town of that name being himself suD-
scrvientto Said bin Abede, at Nyangwe. Yankewe has
just been burned by men from Kibonge, as the Arabs had
traded guns and powder to the natives, and they had begun
attacking unprotected canoes.

D. Opposite Yankewe are limestone cliffs, with caves and stalacraes

in them.

E. Wamanga Rapids. — The worst on the whole river between Stanlev

Falls and Kassongo. "When the water is low here, the Congo
rushes through a passage between the rocks, not more than
50 or 60 yards wide at the narrowest parts. All goods,
extra men, and awnings have to be removed, an(J go by
road, either when coming down or going up the rapms.
The road round is a good one. There are always pienty of
natives from the village of Wamanga at the foot of the
rapids, ready to take the canoes up or down them. In
several places the canoes have to be hauled over the bare
rocks. Fish abound here, and can be bought from the
natives. Road one hour fast walking.

F. These rapids are very bad only in low water, but all goods and

extra men ought to go by land. The road is good, and
only half an hour easy walking.

454

STORY OF THE HE All COLUMN.

: 'i

0. KiBONo^. — A large Arab town under an Arab chief called by that
name, who founded it, but who is subservient to Said bin
Abc'de, at Xyanjjwc. Here tlu>ro are Arabs from liii<r!i-
fcioyn, Zanzibar, Madagascar, Muscat, and other jdaces, nuinv
of them owing allegiance to no one, notably T.ugalowa, a
freed slave, who now has a station on the Aniwimi Itiver,
▼ithin jno month of Lake Albert Xyanza. Kibonge is
chief over all the north bank, and most of the south bank
of the river, from Yankewe to the Kasendo Ifapids, in fact
as far as Xyangwe, as he is subservient to Said bin Abode.

P and I. The lior.A and Linde rivers. — These fine large rivers are
in the territorv of Kibonge, and are said to be deisselv in-
habited by a very fierce and treacherous lot of natives, wl.om
the Arabs have never succeeded in taming. Over and over
again they have asked for Arab residents, but liave nearly
alwa;i s ended by eating them.

T, Kasckc. — An Arab village, standing on both sides of the rive- ,..
that name, inhabited by Arabs subservient t<i Kibongt'.
This is a small settlement, but I believe the Arab inHuencc
extends for a long distance up the river, which (although
very small at the mouth) they assui-c me flows from a source
far up in the interior, to the soutl -west of the Congo.

K- RiBA-RiBA. — A large Arab settlement, not so large as Kiboiige,
but an important one, belonging to an Arab chief called
" Mahommed bin Hamis," who owns a large territory here
on the western bank of the Congo, and is quite independent.
The natives in this district are the Mculusi, but most of the
slaves are Wacusu.

li. The Kasknuo IUimds. — These rapids are not bad, and unless the
canoes are very heavily laden there is no necessity to remove
either men or loads. The natives here have a very Itad
reputation for plundering canoes, but they have just received
a severe lesson from Kibonge, in whose territory they are,
and who burned all their villages and took all their guns.

M. LxJANGA. — The first Wagania village we stopped at. From here to
Kassongo the river-banks are priiicipally inhabited by this
tribe, who ae a harmless and apparently industrious race,
aud furnish paddlers for the canoes of almost all the principal
Arabs.

MAP OF rPPEli CONGO.

455

N. Thes(> niinds are bad in low water, and both loads and fxtra
pt'ople liavo to go by road, which is a good one, if cleared of
croeners.

0. NTANGwfi is a largo Arab town, really consisting of three villages
wliich are the head-centres of tliree Arab chiefs, Said bin
Alu'de, Said bin Ha bib, and ^luni Maliara, the latter being
subservient, I Ijoliovc, to Maliara of liag.imoya. Tlie other
two chiefs are both powerful and iudependjnt.

P. Kabaxoa, a large native village where there is a market, and at
which point Tipi)ii-Til)'s territory commences.

Q. The landing-place for Kassongo, which is an easy ihreo hours'
walk from here to the X.E., with a good road all the way.

B. Kassongo. — Tip])U-Tib's chief town, and the largest of all thi,- Arab
towns on the Congo. I have heard Nyaiigwe mentioned aa
being the largrst, but this is not n fact, nor can I believe; it
to 1)0 a place of so much importance, although it ia on ine
river-bank.

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