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JAMESON. I • > ! i. ^' ^ r '» I M .\ i m . li I .:j !()\ i:r ■ W t THE STORY OF / [THE REAR COLUMN OK TIIK EM IN PASHA RELIEF EXPEDITION v.-a r.v TiiK i.ATi; JAMES S. JAMESON NATURAI.rsT TO IIIK EXPEIKTION' EniTF.n i;v Mrs. JAMES S. JAMKSOV II.7.nsTRATi:rv KV <•. WHYMPKR FROVl TMK AUTHor's <.Rir.rNAI. SKETCm-.S WITH NKW MAP AM. I AC SIMILE LKTTI-R KKOM TU'I'IJ TIB NATURAI, HISTORY APPKMUX BIRDS, BV R. R. BOWDLER SHARPE, K. Z. S. COLEOPTERA, by h. w. bates, k. r. s. LEPIDOPTERA, RHOPALOCERA and HETEROCFRA BY OSBERT SALVIN, F. R. S., F. DU cane GonSf AN, F. R. S., H. DRUCE, F. I.. 3. f^uthori^ed Edition TORONTO . ROSE P U B E I S MI N G CO M V A N V (Ltd.^ if Entered aciording to Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year one thousand eight hundred and ninety-one, by The National Publishing Company, at tht Department of Agriculture. TRODUCTIO] riniog Stan Tippu-T .Stories i Stanley i big rifle. I -I |>ma. — Ango- Congo da ] slave-drivi doing real chief. — I settling a meut of Bteamers.- CONTENTS. VASX lilBT 0? IlXTTSTRATION" , . ix Bditob'8 Notb xiii PRKFACE XV IvrKooccxion xxvii year ons thousand ng Company, at iht CHAPTER I. EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS. Bining btanley una Othcers of the Expedition. — Z-inzibar.— Tippu-Tib. — War between Soudanese utid Zan^ibaris. — Stories about Tippu-Tib. — Cape Town. — Buying dogs. — Stanley refuses carrier for Jameson's collecting-things and big rifle. — Banana Point CHAPTER II. DIARY.— JOURNEY UP THE CONGO. 1887.— March 19th to April '30th. la. — Ango-Ango. — Mpalaballa Mission Station. — March to Congo da Lemba. — Banza Manteka. — Day's march resembling slave-driving. — Kuilu River. — March to Vombo. — Stanley doing rear-guard. — Bartlelot sent on with Soudanese. — Sick chief. — Lutete. — Kindness of the missionaries. — Stanley settling a row. — Inkissi River. — Thief. — Stanley's punish- ment of chiefs. — Off to shoot hippo. — Difficulty about steamers. — Kinshassa. — Ward joins the Expedition . . 10 if IT COA'THNTS. I I CHAPTER III. THE rPPEll CONGO. May ]i 0.— Urtinga. . — Upoto. — • • • • of the StanUiff. — Haid on the natives by Tippii- Tib's pooplo. l-'inal dt'purturo of'thc Stanley. — Kirst visit of Tippu-Tib'K Arabs to Yiinibuya Camp. — iJoiiny orosscs rivrr to native yilla„e_ .\.b(hjlliih punished for stoalin^r an axr. -Jameson and Ward start for Stanley Falls. — Natives «ttfir to mak»> tliem princes. — Yalisula. — Arrival at the Falls. — Uecoived bv Tippu-Tib. — He explains non-arrival of men. — Native wrcstlin^-raatfh. — Jameson makes 'I'ippii present of bi<; ritle. -Return to Yauibuya. — Sotidune.s© punished for theft. — Selim bin Mahomnied. — Arabs shoot down natives. -Dis- aiii)ointin},' news from Tippu-Tib. -Riitnonrs of Stanley's return. Barttelot and Troup start for Falls. — A man pos- sessed by a devil. — Deserter's story. — iJonny's surgical skill, Tho Major returns. — Omalia. -Report of a white matt eoming down river. — Fresh disappointment. — Jinindiee. — Arabs try to prevent trade M'ith natives. — Huifjari Maluim- med steals moat from Ward's house. — Liviiifj: skeletons. — Tliree dreams. — Ungungu esiptured by Arabs. — Christmas Pay.— Fresh trouble between Arabs and uatives .. .. MASK 99 •rival at Aru- ofYarabuya. jr of instruc- mado " blood- X months. — departure. — ies. — Palaver laptureOmari. ,m-copal . — Promise to len. — Return lent.— Arrival CHAPTER VI. TAMBUYA CAMP. \9>%9).—Jaiiuanj Ist to Ftbrnari/ ISth. \\v Year's Day. — Natives return with captured Arab. — Barttelot and Jameson have palaver with natives. — Natives consult the oracles and inspect whito men. — More reports from Stanley's deserters. — Assad Farran sees a whale. — Visit from Arab Venuses. — Sohurus Porll '2nth, Rinrt. with the Major f«»r Stanley KalLs. — Meet a mimhrr of men from Kassoiim). — Siugatini. — Interview with X/i^'c. — No newH of Stanley. — Hunting' for jranio in the jnnjil.'. — rotter from Ynmhuya Cam|). — Shook of earth(|iiake. - AnxiouA waiting.- Skotehinf? regarded as sorcery by ^lahoininedans. — Fever. — Letter from Tronp. — Bnrttelot nrran-rt-s to send JameHon to Kassongo. — Letter to Mrn. JanieHon. Start for KasNongo. — YanKewe, — Wild-looking nativcH.- Waniaiigii Rapids. — Meet men from Knssongo. — Kiboiige, — Jameson writes to Stanley. — Kaprula. — Assad I'arran huntH for onions. — Kasuku. Kindness of Arab chief. — Poisoned arrows. — Uiba-Hiba. — Shooting hippos. — Three great ehiefa. Tippu-Tib's names. — Dangerons natives. — Head men tear u night attack. — Quango. — Nyangwe. — Kindness of Arabs. — Anival at KasRongo. — Tipjiu-Tib. — Fertile country. — Salem Masudi. — Tippu agrees to i>rovide men. — Sketching. — Jamcpon writes to Mr. Mackinnon. — Letter to Mrs. Jameson. — Arab custoniH. — Conversation with Tippu-Tib. — Muni Katomba Mil CHAPTKIJ VTII. EETUllX TO YAMHUYA. A/>ril 27 til (0 June \Oth. Start back for Yambuya. — Delay at starting-point on the river.— Thirty-four of Tippu's men run away. — Tippu and Cameron. — Chiefs arrive to bid farewell to Tippu-Tib. — Miresa. — Tippu's conversation in Swahili. — Two canoes sunk. — A narrow escape. — Assad Farrau's uselcssness. — Riba-Riba. — Wacusu dance. — Cannibals. — Conversation with Tippu. — inl start fi Abdulla • Fourteei search o recover Muni S( Theft of of disastc Jameson Jameson — Muni gandy. — ceed to I — Bonny Jameson death Manyema Jameson camped i warns Jai him. — An Muni Son Andrew Ji to accom c£*20,000.- to go to B Mr. Stanle J co.\T/:yTS. VI I I'AOK Muni Sonmi. — Kibotij^o.— Chiinpuii/.toH. — Tippu's account of a journey with StnnU-y. — StunU-y Falls. — liurttiilofa inter- view with Tippu-Tib. — Start for Yumbuya. — Troup sends in application to be sont home. — Hard at work roducmg loada. — Cu|)H turu uut to b« bad. — Letter to Mrs. Jameiion . . . . 277 iihrr of men N/i>,'<*.— No ^\,.. — Letter e.- Anxious ilioniinedans. lijrcH to send II. Start for - Watnaiigti 50. — Janu'son 1 liuntH for ; — I'oiHonod ) great chiefs. I men I'oar a I of Arabis. — ntry.— Sult-m Skctcliin}?.— Irs. JaracHon. i-Tib.— Muni 2^ In the river. — land Cameron. -Miresa. — les sunk. — A [lliba-Tliba. — lith Tippu.— CHAFrKR IX. THK LAST MARCH. June \lth to Auijust Sth. fbnl start from Yambuya Camp. — Manyemas loot the Camp. — Abdullah's village. — Muni Somai has trouble with Many«'niaa. .' Fourteen men desert. — Jameson returns to Yambuya in search of missing loads. — Selim Mahommed guarantees to recover loads and rifles. — ^[oro desertions. — Small-pox. — Muni Somai goes in search of deserters, and is fired at. — Theft of beads. — Trouble with the Muniaparas. — A long day of disaster. — Major Barttelot returns to Stanley Falls, leaving Jameson in command. — Fresh trouble with Manyi'mas. — Jameson arrives at Ujele. — Takes over command from Bonny. — Muni Somai utterly useless as a commander. — Mquan- gandy. — Letters from Barttelot ordering whole force to pro- ceed to Unaria. — War amongst head men. — A night fusillade. — Bonny loses his way. — Muni Hamela hands over to ■{ Jameson 40,(»00 Enfield caps. — News of Major Barttelot's i, death. — Arrival at Unaria. — Interview with three head I Manyemas. — Jameson offers reward for Sanga's arrest. — 5 Jameson proceeds to Stanley Falls. — Finds the Manyemas I camped in forest. — Meets Muni Somui. — Nasoro Masudi warns Jameson that Manyemas have threatened to shoot him. — Arrival at Stanley Falls. — Interview with Tippu. — Muni Somai tried and convicted of desertion. — Letter to Andrew Jameson. — Letter to Mrs. Jameson. — Uachid declines to accompany Jameson. — Tippu volunteers to do so for iJ20,000. — Trial and death of Sanga. — Jameson determines to go to Bangala in order to obtain reply from Committee. — Mr. Stanley's letter to Jameson 308 It..: VIU CONTENTS. ! il CHAPTER X. LAST SCENES. ^^ August 9th to Auijiigt \Sth. I-ast Journey. — Mr. Ward's diary. — Death 361 — • Portrait of i Wl^te or S( Slate Girl Appendices I.-XI 377-391 Peer's Feti.^ Facsimile of Agreement written by Mr. Jameson forms Bo|ia Appendix IX. A^o-Ango Facsimile of Tippu-Tib's letter faces translation on page 391. ^^^*^" ^^"* Nipive Justi Natueal-Histort Appendix . . 392-45:i^ive Meth I^v War I Explanation ov Map ok Upper Congo 453-4r);_#* .. , lra|gram ot >. Map o*" RiVBU Congo, from Stanley Folia to Kassongo (end of voZwWf^jHftd of Nat Ki|amouth Fiiherman's Tattooing Slields l^|tive of Vi Nitive ViUaj ^tive Chief Sifears and S ttooing trenched ( lids, from i(i Sitor Pot, 1 |tivc Jar ^aku Box Imhuya, — iu of Entr kl and Mm Itajabu llltive Drinl lef's (jirav( Stlnlev Falls LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PASI • • • • a • Ob| PAOB Portrait of the late James S. Jameson Frontispia-e Wl||tc or S(juare-mouthed Rhinoceros (Rhinoceros simus) . . xii Slave Girl {) .. .. 377-391 P«#r's Fetish 10 lesou forms ^^^'^ ^ ^ Awo-Ango 12 'D page 391. Milsioii Koad near Alpalaballa, 14 Nliive Justice 22 . . o92-45lK||ive Method of Bird-catching 23 AiiQ -i.-lwv ^^'ar Horn 34 giam oi Spiders Webs . . . . 36 JO (end of vo/M»ir)Hipid of Native of Mswata 37 Kiramouth . . . 40 Jigherman's Hut , . 40 Tattooing 58 Shields 5S Jfttive of Upoto , 59 Native Village GO Native Chief in top hat (52 S^ars and Shield (Jt> Tiftooing GO Entrenched Camp, Main Street G9 Bipids, from the Camp 80 l4l 84 TH^titer Pot, Yambuya 85 Nitive Jar 92 "Wataku Box 9G Yinibuya. — View looking down river from Entrenched Camp 98 Pl|ii of Entrenched Camp, Yambuya 101 Bell and Musical Instrument lOG Matajabu m Native Drinkiug-bowls 112 Cmef 8 (jrave, Yaweeko 117 S^nley Falls 121 i .;l Ml It I X UST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. A Champion I'Dliimmer Singatiiii V2: i^ba-La Elephant's Head II]; "jjLpu.Tib Yambau V.l. yf^nmn Selim bin ^[ahommcd 13t «, ijotbing A Native of the Upper Congo 14^ jfgtive Wr Sucking-Fish ^-^ Ofle of Ti Yambiiya Palisade 15: Longa-I.011 J'attern on inside of Dish I'l ]|uni Somj Native Stool, lambuya H ^ggjnjoiic starving Zanzibari 16' gnuch of "War-Knife, Upoto 1^' A If e\v W Native Method of Bird-catching 17' ly^er Seen Mr. Jameson, drawn by H. Ward 17; Ji|jor Bart My Home 17f ^gram of Tattooing 18t ^^^ of I €owrie Head-dress 19' j^.,noe Jo War-Knife from Lumami River 2(ii tmL House Wataku Pottery 2 Motograph A Glimpse across Aruwimi Iliver 20i I^tive Vase Small War-Knife -1 T|ttooing Slave Girl '2\: Tj|ir-Xmte :My Friend " Masiidi " 21; ' "Mashukulu" 2)1 *' Curry-Eyes " '22' A Savage taking his ease 2'1 My Bow Paddle 22> Wamanga Kapids 2(^1 Kibonge 28: Native of Wamanga . . . 23' *' A long shove, and a strong shove, and iip she goes '' . . . . 23* " And dotvii she comes wifh a run " 23^ Knife from Kassongo 24)' *'Lukutula" 24:' Wagania Village, near Kassongo 24^ Landing-place, Kassongo 2o( Double Drum, and Striker 25: Copper Money 25: Kassongo 25.- Road to Ujiji 26< Native of Unvanembi 2()! s. LIST OF rLLUSTliATIONS. PAr,i • • • immer and Dancer of Quemba Lamba-Lamba '^l T^pu-Tib ^•' Wagania Huts •• Nothin{» like Independence " 13' Native Woman in Market . . One of Tippu-Tib's Gun-bearera ■^ Longa-].()nj!:a ' Muni Sitmai AaBiniciu' ^^ Bunch of Plantains . . . . " A Kew Way of Catching Chickens ^'' Rl^er Scene " ' ' ' " |jor Barttelot seated on the old Drum ^gram of line of March bive of Ui)j>cr Congo ^anoe Journey House in which Mr. Jameson died at Bangala fe Last Journey jotograph of Grave Itivo Vase .- S'T!-; -^ viar-Kniie 21; I 211 22' 2t 22> 231 28; 23: 23> 23^ 24: 24:' 24?. 2o( , 2o: % 'Kv m 2(i: XI PA(JK 270 271 274 27G 277 279 281 283 295 297 299 304 308 309 322 354 367 370 372 374 37H 452 455 'M ■M ft |i ': WhITK or SQUARE-MOliHED lilllNOCl'.KOS. [Thf above was mounted, together with the larger portiou of the late Mr. J. S. Jauiesuu's Collection, bv Air. Kowlaiid Ward, FZ.S.] ^HEsr Ic j^ation ; interest I fecentlv ^irable tiheir orig yy fature rc( In the idvantage brothcr-ir •i I I have frho sealc( papers wh iBveral in lolume. jnder so liosc last I wish I [usband's ly pre pari Lppeiidict To Mr. jr a sket lis verv > EDITOR'S NOTE. /■• ^8. ^iou of the late ird, FZ.S,i ESE letters and diaries were not originally intended for pub- lication ; but it has been thought that they may be read with interest by many, and that, having regard to the aecusations lecentlv made against the leaders of the Rear Colunm, it is cfesirable that they should be published in what is practically their original form, with only such alterations as their private nature required. / In the preparation of this work, I have throughout had the Idvantage of the constant advice and sympathetic help of ray Irother-in-law, Mr. Andrew Jamkson. •■? I have received much kindness from Mr. Herbkrt Ward, |rho sealed and sent home those of Mr. Jameson's diaries and Sapers which he brought with him to the coast, and gave me jveral interesting sketches of his own for insertion in this tolumc. A still deeper debt of gratitude is due to him for the jnder solicitude with Avhich he nursed rav husband duriuir hose last hours at Bangala. I wish further to express my hearty thanks to several of my husband's friends who have rendered me valuable assistance ly preparing the scientific parts of this book, contained in the ippendiccs. To Mr. R. BowDLER Sharpe, P.Z.wS., T am indebted both Jbr a sketch of Mr. Jameson's career as a naturalist, and for |is very valuable paper on the birds of the Aruwinii ; and I J I i XIV EDirOli\S yOTB. to Messrs. H. W. Bates, F.R.S., Osbert Salvin, F.R.S F. DuCane Godman, F.K.S., aiul Hekhekt Druce, P'.Z.S., n, thanks are most deservedly due for the care they have bestowr upon tlie Entomological portion of the Appendices. It a matter of deep regret that only a remnant of the collti tions made by Mr. Jameson on the Aruwimi ever reached rt hands. The Rev. J. M. Rouwell has kindly rendered the translatio of the Arabic letter from Tippu-Tib, and the Rev. Canon J. ,; Carmichael, LL.D., has merited my warmest thanks for li; valuable help. Finally, I would acknowledge the artistic skill with whic Mr. Charles Whymper has reproduced the spirit of m hushand's sketches, and the attention and courtesy shown a throughout by Mr. R. H. Porter in the publication of thi book. m ETHEL JAMESON. Dereoiber i2th, 18801 "Goo Ifltt Wh( 'Twf But Robi And N|ver was tli^n in the ettly life w{ h|^e striven asion off lost his family j e scope work wi y with rwhelmi ch he 1 ought t gment £ etfulnei rder are , by a 1 J Salvin, F.R? >RucE, F.Z.S., n, ley have bestowf )pendices. It lit of the collei ever reached m ?d the translatio Rev. Canon J. ,; it thanks for li skill with whif le spirit of m f (urtesy shown a | iblication of thi JAMESON. PREFACE. "Let therk br licjht." (Mr. Stanley's motto for 'In Darkest Africa!) " Good name, in man and woman, dear my lord, Ifl the immediate jewel of their souls : Who steals my purse, steals trash : 'tis something, nothing ; 'Twas mine, 'tis his, and has been slave to thousands ; But lie, that filches from me my good name, Robs me of that which not enriches him, And makes me poor indeed." NivER was the truth of these lines more vividly illustrated thin in the case of the writer of this Diary. The dream of his early life was to add his name to the long roll of those who have striven for some good and useful object. At length tlie occasion offered itself, as he believed, in the Expedition in which he lost his life ; to join it he sacrificed his wealth, his home, bi| family joys and comfort, to live " laborious days,'^ and find sd|ae scope for the pent-up energies within him. He went to hii work with a strong zeal and lofty sense of right, did his dpy with unselfish heroism in the face of treacheries and oHlprwhelming difficulties, and died a martyr to the cause for wlich he had so nobly laboured. What is his reward ? He i||sought to be made the scapegoat of his Commander's ill- JMgment and neglect ! Charges of disobedience, disloyalty, fol^etfulness of promises, desertion, cruelty, cowardice, and milrder are brought against him, on the authority of discredited lilSTs, by a man who is driven to his wits* end to sustain his n % xn phi: FACE. i! I ^r reputation against serious imperative aeeusations. The cliar •?■ are hrouglit against Jameson wlien he is in his grave, when "®^^ " common usage of humanity suggests silence, and when a n •xainiiin of a noble and lionourablo east of nature would altogct^*;^"'"!' prefer to lie under an unjust suspicion rather than asperse ; **py _ defame the voiceless dead. This, however, is not the course wli**^*'^ '" Mr. Stanley has followed. Lest any tinge of discredit sli()**'''^F^^^ rest on his ow n fame, he has striven to destroy that of otiiers «**"** \ycvo. i are powerless to reply. Upon his remarkable Expedition i flt'**('>'ve( Central Africa there rests one dark blot — the disastrous fati I his Rear-Guard, and Mr. Stanley is not a man to admit that 'f '^' -^ can make mistakes : no blame of any sort can be allowed to s . ^^ *^ ' ' his record; if the Rear-Guard was wrecked, it was, of eou'*^'^^'*'' ''.' because his skilful plans and careful orders were neglected l^Jb^ ' ' disobeyed; no statement, however desperate and imaginary, v^^ be kept back if only it serve to sustain his egotistical denia' upon the credulous admiration of his readers ; and so, apparer unconscious of the possibility of contradiction, and fully c scions of the fact that the men whom he defames are dead,' casts the whole weight of blame upon their helpless heads. "^^ first answer to Mr. Stanley's charges comes from Captain \V,.. Barttclot ; and it is a crushing one. His reply to this : Hood of malevolent gossip as wicked as it is unprovcn, in \vl good care is taken to make the least serious charges aga the living, the gravest and most defamatory against the dca The amount of reliance that can be placed upon Mr. Stanl. accuracy is an easy question to determine. He suffers c, abnormally from that shortness of memory which is, accord; to a well-known proverb, said to be characteristic of a ccxii class of people. Thus, on November 8th, 1890, he dc| the truth of statements respecting the Rear-Guard made) himself in a book published in the month of June of self-same year. In Volume I. of 'In Darkest Africa,' | 478, after giving a history of all the information he ct^ got from Mr. Bonny, he says, " I have never obtained {m^ light from Mr. Bonny, though at every leisure hour it a constant theme " (and indeed, from all accounts, it pears that Stanley spared no pains to get from him alL c heard ninety n y ncv{'»' ioual or z has n niljcr st( tanlev lu • iiig all m sertcd t the state Id him s, then t, jmblis ;s not th nt of till [•s, given i: On the pablv fixc( hs that h mdav, 0( , in Aug! Mr. Sti Mideninat Ired bv liii PliKFACR. XVll on«. The cliar v , . . • p ir i i t c i i. »• nn^^ Tn the hrffinniiif; of Vol. II. wc find an nrcount ot is grave, wncn"""''" ,. .^ c t *i • i. 1 .u , he fxaniinatioii ot witnesses trom amongst the snrvivors ol ' ^" H lt\!.^»« Camp at Yamhnya, and the eonelnsions arrived at are wou { a "b^", /^ stated— the deaths at Yanil)\iya were due to th«» .laniicr in which tlie men cooked their food, among th( ot the course w 1*^7* , ■ ■ 1 xi 11 P ^^ vx 1 lembers of the garrison there were many thieves, and punish- of discredit slio"^^" , , • wor man, witi UK of sn Alsad I'ai tions, is (1 ir^re only eXJEiiniiiers 8«c'ii'tary Deriiiott, • ho iidmitte n.nht M II, that Iceliug om he 1 estionin^ y wantci IThis is tl e of th Congo nzibari s credited « not pn .Mr. Gla own rel /(//<'' of inzibaris, raation d e, what (1 zibari s( s? y;, PJifCFACR. XXI lis condcninutii fnco, blic." jrHliip tlio nrit tho lovt'l ot nnliding atVrcti loration ; but w ticy of tluit 1()\ ic or temper ; Bv ail inovita :ious Hiul cxacti fidoucc ; the in 'iiipt to tritio u jitaulcy will m It lie is scckin;: wav of insiniuiti IS witnesses, win IC — Jionny, A» Zanzibar! serva o produce ni; man no one i of native evidi c autboriiies 1 uct, it is cqu. system won 111 the author of ' shines rouiii is it the baiu •. Stanley tell? aiincrs of au al his case; witli LTs first, and ! at tbe time oloured witiii- Mit pon(Vmimff)ry pvi(h'm'C njjninst tboso whom In- bad i'rt(d and lui-^le*!, b" strove to work up a ease ii^jaiust tliem Htrainin;.'' tbe obvious sense; and purport of bis onlers ; by ,vlntiii"' and niisrepreseutin;; tbe writin<;s of lbirtt(dot and Jitneson, so as to eoiidemn tbem, if possible, out of tbeir own mouths, then sileiurd for ever : and even by darinj? to break oprn the seals upon Jameson's private diary and papers. Never, in the history of slander, were charges so inju. s as those levelled against the ollieers dependent upon ire worthless testimony. It is ineomprchensible how any ji, with the barest respect for his reputation, could make of such instrumentH as two of Mr. Stanle\'s Avitnesscs. nd I'arran, the prime coiu^oeter of these shameless inven- is, is a man who (as be himself puts it) would, if bo only (luestioned enough, "giv(! all the information bis miners wimted ; " a man who, when be was asked by the n-etarv of the Emin Pasha Relief (Jommittee, Mr. Mae- rmott, why he bad told stories about the officers whi(!b admitted were exaggerated and iiu;orreet, replied " that be ught Major Harttelot and Mr. Janu'son had not treated hitu 11, that lie had been sent away witlamt clothes or food, and lecliug was bad : '' and then lie added, " that when those to oni he made bis statement on the Congo kept (juestioning, estioning, and would not let him alone, be bad to say all y wanted him to say.*' This is tbe man who, in ^lareh \H\)\), first told Mr. Stanley e of the stories which that gentleman stated he heard on Congo in 1HS8. Nor is Saleb ben Osman, ^[r. Stanley's nzibari servant, a more reliable witness than the pitifully credited Assad Farran. The statement of this worthy, who IS not pretend to be an eye-witness of anything, is translated ^fr. Glave, and is a most extraordiiuiry document, bearing own refutation on its face. At the best it is a mere re- yffe of what be bad beard concerning these events from ;nzibaiis, Arabs, Manyemas, and Soudanese, and if the in- raation derived at first hand IVoui such witnesses is unreli- e, what docs it become when filtered tii rough tbe bend of a zibari servant two years after he had heard the tales he Is? f u. \X11 piii-:FAt'i':. \ II II No one l;?i()ws bettor tlmii Mr. Stanley the utter uiitrib The terril wortliiness oJ:' tlie!?c Ziinzil).'iris, and the ease with wliich they mflelilli Mah( be made to pay anything by " questioning, questioning/' i"v;al|» care ol' his own character is not safe in their liaiids, lor he is accii so him ])lot^ by on(^ of the tribe of ordering a live baby to be drowiicd ast even bi the Congo {vide page 111 in Diary), and tlie Zanzibari w^'roni the Jv made this statement had no api)arcnt motive for telling a 1 No condi uhieh ean hardly be asserted about Mr. Stanley's most usdjrdinary hn witness. and if reliar Mr. Sta] ley is certainly unfortunate in being placed iiican only be jjosition where he must stake his credit on the veracity of siihypnotic in men as these. He lias only produced three witnesses at ; With all t best : two of them have been j)rovcd unworthy of the sliglithas given to belief, and the third, \\h piecr de resistance, Mr. Bonny, is ito produce a from being as satisfactory as the cause of justice would reqiiiichai^'e that Bonny is nn ex-sergeant of the Army Hospital Corps, aitb^.;fieglcct ^ was a paid servant of !Mr. Stanley's, who styles himself iof |pic office employer. Our trust in his accuracy of recollectiou and il^^encd in telligent appreciation of facts is somewhat enfeebled, when vhe||iniself a remember that Mr. Stanley informs us how Honny told li; that Barttelot, in view of his possii)le dtath, had left to In f^ne turn: (Bonny) the successio in eommand over Jameson, an absuofiself-seeki misapprehension, to say the least of it, complicated moreover a wO^^'^ *"^ a most unpleasant controversy respecting the genuineness piwudiccd i certain orders produced by Bonny, and the alleged suppressi(ii ; thought of tt he whole thiii" y place/' A hn idcrtaken sustai; '. The neglect i edition — who, jb : Zanzibaris but csty, treachery,;; deal, the misen n day to day, the slanderer e irons cut into t' duty, which iii >n, strong in dct ice he answered are coming ; ti indications of 3 sick people in e so evident Iv ft elp they so sur efforts that Ij 11 the Arabs; cuts and flo""!!., I nature. "F old Dcrrier Moussa, a Somali,"' he writes, " who has been our cook for the greater part of our journey, died to-day. He has been ill for a long time. It is horril)le to watch these men slowly dying before your face, and not be able to do anything for them." " Poor Alf>\andcr, one of the Soudanese inter- preters, (lied to-day ; he has been ill for a long time." " It is a sad, sad sight to see men dying round you every day, and not be able to put out a hand to save them. Without a single fight we havf! lost close upon seventy men out of our small force, and there arc many more who, I am sorry to say, will never leave that Camp. And now good night and good-bye. Kiss the little ones for me, and may God have you all in his safe keeping.'' As to the Hogging, he writes — "Two sentries, who deserted tifeir post last night, were flogged this morning. It is sickening, |s continual flogging, but there is no help for it ; " and lin — " Went the rounds last night. No sentries asleep, so I flogging this morning, thank goodness." |The Diary abounds with indications of a vigorous, capable, 0^Ci unflineliing personality. His determination and skill in lurking with and managing the Arabs, particularly displayed ill his politic negotiations with Tippu-Tib, by which at last ho ojbtained the carriers he required — his interview with Muni S^atomba at Kassongo — his ungrudging labours at Yambuya l^fore the last start from that home of misery — his unmur- muring endurance of toil and hunger in the march through the srest to lianalya — his fearless return march to Stanley Falls the Face of great dangers — his untiring eflbrts to secure lother Arab commaiuler to come with him — his splendid offer pledge his fortune for the sake of the Expedition — his l^iflinching refusal to depart from the route which Stanley id ordered him to follow — his declaration that Barttclot, i^hen he was murdered, was carrying out Stanley's orders, and iat he meant to do the same — all of which acts show how he )se to the occasion of a great crisis : these are the doings of a iS)mpetent and sagacious man, worthy of the part to which he ^d been apjjointed and of the praise of which his Connnander IS most selfishly and ungenerously sought to rob him. XXVl PliKFACE. Amidst all the toils and changes of camp-life Jameson foun time to gratify his love of natural history and to employ li; valuahle iH)wcrs of observation. Unhappily, a large part i his valuable collection was lost when the camp he had jih marched from was looted by the Arabs, in whose charge it wa left. There is no doubt tl»at, if he had been possessed of mm opportunity and had his life been spared, he Avould have con tributed largely to the scientific results of the Expedition. All noble lives are instinct with a purpose. They read tli secret of their destiny, and find no rest until they work it ou! wherever it may lead, llesults they fear not, although it li their fate, as that of many gone before, to " perish in tL Mildcrncss." ANDREW JAMESON. D iblin, December iOtb, 1890. 1 1 i| 1!| JasIes SliJ at the Wa Andrew J a held agenc great culti and scicnti Cochrane, ' birth of the At a ver} wliich were those for tr quite a sma mother one over a ma^: She asked hours past wmit to lea be a big tra in 1807 ne*r Edinl he always s ^)rcghori by woods. then iield n developed for all an formed sue Manv arc te Jjimeson fotm ul to employ li> , a large part ( imp he had ju. ose charge it Ma ossessed of nioi would have con Expedition. . They read tli they work it on: t, although it li "perish in tli INTRODUCTION. r JAMESON. JajIes Slioo Jameson was born on the 17tli of August, 1856, at #c Walk House, Alloa, Clackmannanshire. His father, Art^rcw Jameson, was a son of John Jameson, of Dublin. He held agencies for some estates in Scotland, and was a man of great cultivation and refinement, possessed of both literary and scientific tastes. His wife, Margaret, daughter of James Cochrane, of Cllen Lodge, Sligo, died a few days after the birih of their third son, James. At a very early age tlie tastes of the child foretokened those trllich Avere to form the ruling interest of his after-life, viz. those for travel and natural history in all its branches. When q^jlte a small boy, between four and five years old, his grand- mother once found him, at a late hour of the night, poring over a map, which, strangely enough, was the map of Africa. She asked him why he had not gone to bed, as it was some hours past his usual time. " Oh, grandmamma ! " he said, " I wjqit to learn all about these strange countries, for 1 mean to be a big traveller some day." in 1807 Jameson was sent to Dreghorn, a boarding-school weir Edinburgh, under Mr. Dalgleish, of which, in after-life, healways spoke as " an ideal school for boys.'' Prcghorn lies at the foot of the Pentland hills, surrounded by^A\'oods. Through the beautiful ])ark flows a stream which then held many a trout ; and here it was that Jameson first developed those instinctive tastes for natural history, love for all animals, and keen interest in their habits, which formed such a marked tiait in his character, even in childhood. Many arc the treasures which even in those early days were m m m tl "1(1 Nxvm rxTitoDucrrox. : :i . v! iipcumulatcd, and which formed the nucleus of his later valiia' At the collection. Afn^'"- ""■ Speaking of his childhood, his aunt, Mrs. Burd, writes;. Altera " He knew every bird and live thin*;!; in the neighbourhood ;, Desert, wlj their habits ; and his joy and pride when he found a Rose; to the chKl Tern is a thing not to be forgotten. I do not think he kiu meuee prej what the word fear nieant.^' District. He had long been anxious to [)rocure some young Choii:; cxoitenicnt which had built their nest high up on tlu; cliffs at the bacjk Boers, whj (rien Lodge. At last he devised a plan by laying three laddi blocking togetlicr, and, at the risk of liis neck, succeeded in reaciii: Their latel the nest and bringing down four little ones. He took t special de^ greatest tronble in preparing their food, making it as like wli. th6li <1'^^'" he thought their mother would give them as possible, and evi hl^tri^'r '' feeding them with a match which he shaped like her bill. II ^h a si'('( kept them in his own room, so that he might hear them ti t»t mght moment they cried for food, which was usually about five in ti ^ff^'^^ ^ morning, and he refused to go on a shooting expedition to whit jBcucoum he had long looked forward, until one of his cousins promise *W^^ ■ ^^^ faithfully to take charge of and feed them at the same early lioi; Jimeson rl He kept them for about three weeks, putting them, in the da *^ reaclied time, in a pheasant-box on the lawn. But, alas ! on the va uwrnet \\ < night of his return from his shooting, a Bedlington naiiu Havrng " Pcachem " got at the box ar.d killed them all ! The boy v.; leaving Ze dreadfully grieved, and retired to his own room for some tin; wfi*t^ "^' ^' When asked by his uncle whether he had " given Pcacheiii calc^^''^'^^'^ good licking," he rejdied, "No; why should I hurt the pu brute and make him miserable as well as myself? It's on his nature, and he knew no better.'' Small traits of this kind were an early indication of the kii and gentle nature which, in later life, so fascinated all \\[ knew him. Upon quitting Drcghorn, he went to the Internation. College at Isleworth, until, in 187.'5, he began reading for tl irmy. This, however, he abandcnicd in 1877, when he staiu an the first of his travels to Ceylon, Calcutta, Singnpore, :iii Borneo. From Borneo he returned with a fine collcctioa i birds, butterflies, and beetles. nui, wli e !Matal anting endly bsequei Mr. St !i'' ■•W-r-- INTIiOIH^CTIOy. XXIX i his later valiin' *. liurd, writes;, eighbourliood ;, found a Rose:; lot think ho Icik (! young Choii;; i's at the hack f\n\r three laddt 3eded in reaciii; ?s. He took t ng it as like wIk jossible, and evi like her bill. Ij it hear them tl ' about five in ti ipeditionto wlii^ cousins promise B same early lion them, in the dai as ! on the va 'dlington naim The boy v,; for some tin: iven Peachciu I hurt the po ^self? It's on: ition of the kii. iciiiated all wl, le Internatioii. reading for tl when he staiti Singiipore, an ue collect ioii ^. -tliis time to South Jt the close of 187.S he went out agaui,- i.j,,_i„ search ol" big game. After a few Mceks' hunting on the ])orders of the Kalahari D0irrt, wlicrc he obtained excellent sport in the vehlt belonging to^ie chief Montsioa, he returned to Potehefstroom, to eom- nw|cc preparations for a more extensive trip into the Zand)esi Diiirict. The town was at this time in a general state of eX<^tcnicnt, owing to the presence of sonu' 700 disaffected Bc^rs, who, fully armed, were camped just outside the town, blS^l^i'"}-' ^^'^' ^'"^'^ ^" Pretoria, and stopi)ing all the mails. T&r latest act of audacity had been to seize and detain a sttfcial despatch sent by Colonel Tucrker, of the HOih Regt., (luaitercd in the town, to Sir (xarnct AVolseley. Upon Hf of this, Jameson at once offered to ride to Pretoria h a second despatch. His offer was accepted, and he started It ni'dit bearing the important document, with power to shoot rone who might attempt to detain him. The next morning [encountered a party of about sixty Boers, who stopped and iselv (juestioned him. Havijig allayed their suspicions, lesou nxle on, making no })ause and taking no rest until reached J^retoria, and safely delivered the despatch to Sir irnet "Wolselcy. f Having completed his outfit, he now started for the interior, iving Zcerust as the last civilized town on his route. From \rc he trekked along the (rreat Marico River, \> here he had Iccllent fishing, up to the Crocodile or Limpoj)o River, jeting with large game in great abundance. At Shoshong was joined by Mr. H. Collison, who had been hunting in frica for four years ; and at this place he also heard from [r. F. C. Selous, the well-known African hunter, who pro- bed to join the party at (iubuluwayo. Pushing on, therefore, I'ough the " (Jreat Thirst-Land," Jameson arrived at Um- \m\\, where he made aequaintanee with Lo Bengula, King of Me ^Matabelcs, who received the travellers with great cordiality, fanting them willing permission to hunt in his country. His lendly bL-haviour towards Jameson was on this, as on all ^bsequent occasions, unvarying. ^^Mr. Selous having joined them, they now took lea\e of the i 'I ' 1, u XXX L\T/iOlJUCTION. Kiiiji;, wlu) sent witli tlicni an iiuhuia to guard their waggons and property ; and the party proceeded into Mashona Land, wlicre they obtained splendid shooting. In July, Selous and Jameson started for six weeks' hunting in the Fly Country, and were able to demonstrate the junction of the two rivers, the Uuivuli and the Umnyati *. In ecmnexiou with this shooting-expedition oF 1870, the following letter from J. M. Sadleir, Esq., will not be without interest to the reader : — Eftstoii Nt'ston, Tow'cester, November 1'9, ]S!)0. My dear Jamkson, .... I nnist say I can never forget your brother's kindness to me in Africa. I send you the particulars. In the month ol' April, 1879, I was travelling from Durban, Natal, up country. I was taken ill with dysentery at Colenzn. AVhen I had been bad for a fortnight, and was lying in a shed attached to the hotel, your brother, who was trekking to the Zambesi, found me. He at once went back to his camp and broiiglit Dr. Sk(.'t('hly, one of his party, who attended to me for some days, till I could be moved. Jameson then had a hammock slung for me in one of his waggons, and took me up country with him, till I was strong enough to go back to Durban. To his treatment and oarc alone I believe 1 owe my life. Very sincerely yours, J. M. Sadleir. Andrew Jameson, Esq. In the spring of 1881, Jameson returned to England, bringing with him a fine collection of large heads, as well as birds, butterflies, beetles, flowei's, and grasses. In the following year he went out to the Rocky Mountains with his brother, Mr. John A. Jameson. In the Crazy Mountains, and near the upper waters of the Musselshell in Eastern Montana, they shot several bear, wapiti, buffalo, deer, and antelope. *• See ' I'rocuediugs of tlu; lioyal Geographical Society,' Juiie 1881 F. C. Selous. ' >"•'?" "-..■V'wt.^ J NT no DUCT I ON. xxxl In 1883 they wont tliroujjfh the Crow llosorvation, Afoiitana Territory, on to tlio North Fork of tlio Stinkinjr \Vat(;r, in search of sheep, of which they obtained thirty-six, besides several ])uflalo, bears, wapiti, &c. In 1881. Jameson travelled throuj^h Spain and Algeria; and upon his return in 1885 he married Kthel, daughter of the late ^lajor-General Sir Henry Marion Durand, ll.E., K. C.S.I, , C.U. Two years later, in January 1887, the attention and sym- pathy of all England were attracted to the Expedition for tlio relief of Emin Pasha — Gordon's worthy lieutenant and friend — wliieh was on the eve of departure for Africa, under the com- mand of Mr. H. M. Stanley. The scheme was one which could not fail to appeal most strongly to Jameson's chivalrous nature; moreover, it promised almost boundless scope for the exercise of his special talent for natural history research. He at once volunteered his services to Mr. Stanley, who readily accepted them. The following words are taken from a letter written on January 22, 1887, by him to Lady Durand : — " . . . . Whv all the ambitions of mv lifetime should have been concentrated at this time, with a seemingly prosperous issue, I know not ; but I assure you that I did not accept the position without weighuig well all there was for and against it. Ever since my childhood I have dre:imt of doing some good in this world, and making a name which Avas more than an idle one. My life has been a more or less selfish one, and now springs up the opportunity of wiping off a little of the long score standing against me. Do not blame me too much. ... I must thank you for your generous kind-hearted wishes. . . ." A sadder tale than that contained in these diaries has seldom been told; for, strive as he would to lighten its hopeless misery, even Jameson's bright and dauntless spirit was weighed down by the wretchedness of the position in which he was placed; and, had it not been for the sincere friendship which arose between Edmund !Musgrave Barttelot and himself, the talc would have been sadder still. if. ■!'■ ; t ,■ I • !i XXXll LsriinDurrioN. The letters aiirl (liiiiios ^rapliienllv (Icscribe liia share in tho Kxpcdition, spcjikinj;' more poucrl'ully than any paneffyric eonid (h) for tlie sinj^Uvliearted, loyal, and eouraj^eoiiH spirit in which lie met all (lilUculties and hoic every hardship and hitter dis- appointment, as he saw his dcan'st ho))cs, one after the other, shattered hy the exi<;eneies of a jjosition in whieh the revolting; duties of a slave-driver were forced upon him ; whilst every opportunity for scientific; work was i-tithlessly withdrawn. ■X- ^ ^ V: -X- -X- * -X- * ¥r ¥r ¥r Vr * ■\Ve only add a few words, written hy one who knew and appreciated him : — " His character Avas one whieh it was inii)ossil)le to know ■without loving— unselfish atul gcnenms, |)ure-hcarte(l and brave ; a rare eomhination of manly sticngth and courage with tlic most tender sweetness and gentleness of spirit. Seldom, if ever, has sueh an instance been known to me of utter forget- fulness of self and thoughtfulness for others, at all times and under all eiieumstaiiccs»" loinftiar Stanley anr War bi'tweon J l'ii]ic Town. — c'ollecting-thiiig: Fntil the star famesoii kept i lie taken from ,S'.*S'. PeshatVi Fehruanj 18{ [lack troops, j let come throii Aden, where [nc of the staff le Expedition |nd behaved sj S.8. Orientm Fehniary 10 Ike him very r if the black ti las seen a g CITAPTETl I. EXTRACTS FllOM LKTTKRS. \ 1 1 u' i > 1] '- IB ■■ ■ i t I^B' *\ } 1 1 K] j n H' n t, IB' 1 IB' U H ■Hj 1 Pi fiHil •!! B .' foiiiinir Stanloy and Ollici'iN of the Expedition. — Zanzibar. — Tippu-Tib.-^ I War between Sondane.se and Ziin/.ibaiis, -Stories about Tipnii-Tib.— t'anf Town. — Huyinjr do. ... I liavc just tiird to sjxsir nD( enonnous cockroach with my pen, l)ut he escaped me! FthriKi)'}! \^th. — Tlio Xavai'inn has turned u|) at hist.l and wc start some time to-day. Stanh'y and the wliolej party are lierc. Fchruarji Mth. — Jephson is in my rahin ; ho is J vohinteer, havin«i; Joined the Expedition on the sanifj terms as myself. Stairs has heon teachin«j; us mappinj;] and we all i^ct on, so far, capitally tojijetlief. tind I tliinlj we are likely to ^o on well, as i-ach man will have hiJ own ])articular duties to attend to. . . . The trying parti of this Kx})editi(/n will he the want of news from hompf However, I am sure to get letters from you on oiii| arrival at the Congo. 'II S.S. Madttm. Zanzibar. Fchrunrji 23r^. — ... At last we are on board tb steamer which is to take us to the Congo. At Lamiil landed with Dr. Parke at daybreak, and we spent a lev hours in quest of game, succeeding, after long walkiii^^ under a hot sun, in shooting three birds — a species 4 partridge. We saw a good many gazelle, but did m\ get any 1 made a sketch of ti-i. village. Next day w[ stopped at Mombasa, but I had no time to go on shore! Yesterday we anived here; and I must say I wal agreeably surprised with the whole place — town, har| bour, and people. The streets are only about five fcef ^vide ; but the ^vindows and doors are all carved in dil| ferent designs, and the effect of the black carved wooci against the pure white building is very picturesque, wish I had time to etch some of them, or even make rough sketches. This morning we got up 6 A.M. and went on shore to the powder-magazinej where we remained at work until 6.30 p.m. I don- think I ever put in a harder twelve hours' work ; but i does one good. We packed 4,500 lbs. of powder i] hWT/HiJ'S rua.M LKI'TKllS. 3 Ispcciai casos which ciinio out from liomo, licsidiN a lot of work with caps. 'I'o-inonow cv(Mnn«i; >vo arc ill (lining at the Hritish ConsiMatc, and nc\t morning' [(lliaiik «;oo(hu'ss!) wi> sail for tiic Coii^o. WC liavu »i\ty-oiu' (loiik(\vs on l)oar(l, and tlic hrayin*,' tliat they keep up at ni<;ht is (h(>adful. Ono starts it, and tlie )th(Ms |»rolon«; tiic choius in difFcicnt keys ad injinifuni. fl'o-morrow niornin*^ 0(10 /an/iharis arc coiniufj; on l)oard ; tlicn wo ^ct at least ()()() more at the ('()n«j;(), uliicli, ,'ith the Soudanc-sc tro()|)s, will make a ^ood lot of men. ^ioodness knows how we are going to feed them all, for they seem a hungry set! . . . luhriiary 2^)fh. — I am not going to keep a diary nitil I start u]) the Congo, that all the time that I yan give to writing may he given to yon. So I shall jkvrite every day, and send it all from the Cape when ,'c call there. ... At T.amn, of which I spoke in my last letter, there are the remains of a great hattle, the diole shore being covered with bones and skulls. Some of our party gathered very good specimens. I )clieve the fight was one between the Arabs and the latives. Mombasa — a quaint old town, full of old Portuguese ruins — possesses a pretty and almost land- locked harbour. Off the Island of Pemba we fished nth land-lines over the stern of the steamer, and iaught a number of fish, small, but of the most beau- liful colours — some bright red, others barred with blue, jilver, and brown — a kind of bream or sea-perch, I link. . . . The Sultan's Palace at Zanzibar is a won- derful structure, quite square, w^ith an enormous cor- igated iron roof, about four stories high — quite the Igliest building I have ever seen, looking very like |n immense doll's house. Imagine my surprise when hoard that the famous Tippu-Tib was coming nth us round to the Congo and on to Emin Bey. |ix hundred of his fighting men are to meet us at [tanley Falls. After dinner, at the Consulate, we ^ere all introduced to Tippu-Tib, who is a fine old rab, very lively, and a thorough old gentleman. b2 1887. Ki'l). 2.3. Ziiiizibar. M!^l^il h .tit ^i'iiii lit I ■It ■ t m 4 8T0EY OF THE REAR COLUMN. 1887. Feb. 25. Zanzibar. We started to-day at daybreak. Tippu-Tib has about :;| 20 wives on board, and, including wives, 90 followers altogether. They have all been more or less sea-sick,! with the exception of his interpreter. It was mostf amusing to see old Tippu led off by the interpreter! and taken below, trying to walk straight, and makei jokes — his man in rits of laughter. War broke outl this morning between the Soudanese and the Zaii-I zibaris. It was not until some damage had been do to both sides that order was restored. I was standiii;'! by the main hatch with ]Mr. Stanley, when his servaiii| ran up to him, and said the niggers in the f()ic[ hold were killing one another. Mr. Stanley, NelsoiiJ Je])hson and I ran forward, and the sijdit that mei our eyes was exactly like an " Inferno " by Gustavo Dorcj They all had great clubs, and were fighting lik(| demons. AVe went down and drove the Zanzibaiil into one place and the Soudanese into another; bii;;| it took some time to disarm them and get them t(| cool down. I took an iron bar from a man who hac| broken one man's arm, and the finger of another' These, and a large number of broken heads, coii^ stituted the results of the tight. All has been quit; since. February 2Ctth. — Busy all day, making vocabular of Swahili language, which the Zanzibaris and Somaliii all speak. The Somalis arc twelve picked men, pril cured at Aden; they are to be armed with Winchestel rifles, for Stanley's special guard — splendid fellows, aiil they all speak English. In the afternoon I had to fiiil out, and Avrite down, the names of the 117 men wh| have been placed under my charge. I have oii(| splendid boy amongst them, who is my interpreter! and Avhom I am going to teach to skin birds ; he is on of tlie most intelligent little chaps I have ever scei: To-day some of those troublesome Soudanese soldier attempted to take liberties with some of Tippu-Tib J wives; in conseciueuce tliere has been a row, and ^ special sentry placed over their ap-.irtiiients. extract:^ from l/jtters. After dinner Mr. Stanley told us a few stories about ij)pu-Tib. It seems that at one time he borrowed jihout £4,000 from the Rothschild of Zanzibar, and Itartcd into the interior with a p;ood many followers lo trade for ivory. After some time he came to a very (ar<''e native town, enclosed within double palisades, the town was so large that, if a gun was fired off' at mv point in the outer circle, it could not be heard at lin o])posite point in the same circle. The king kept iill his ivory and wives within the inner palisade, and (here were 10,000 warriors guarding him in the outer krcle. After keeping Tippu for a long time in his [own, the king gave an order that, should any oH his len catch Tippu alone outside, they should kill him. )ne day he left the town by himself, and on his way )acii he met two of the king's men, who began to shoot jit him with bows and arrows. He ran for the gate of [he town, but just as he reached it an arrow struck him the leg and brought him down; he got up again jind running towards his own camp, he shouted out to lis people to bring him his gun. He was again struck jind knocked down, but his wife managed to give him lis gun, with which he shot both of the king's men. ^he shots roused the king's warriors, and brought all ?ippu's men running into his camp. They first shot lown a number of the natives, and when about one mndred of them had mustered, Tippu ordered them to ush for the gate of the big town, and to fire all jogetlier as the warriors carae on. This they did, and Vnncd the houses nearest to them. The fight lasted [hree days, by which time they had burned all the J>uter circle of the town. They then proceeded to fire Ihrough the inner palisade, until they had decimated Ihe people gathered inside ; then they made a rush, leized and beheaded the king, and captured all the ^oiy and women. Tippu next went to ail the smaller josvns in the kingdom and collected enormous qiian- hties of ivory, which he afterw^ards sold at the coast [or £40,000. He became king of a whole country, mtively through his own cunning. He once came to 1887. Feb. 20. At sea. ir It STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN. 1887. Feb. 20. At sea. iil ( - If a strange country, where he was told that the king liad been taken away years before, with his little son, and that the natives had long expected his return. Having; asked numerous questions of every native he mot. without saying who he was, Tippu-Tib at length said td one man, " Had your king not such and such coloured eyes ? " The man said, " Yes." Tippu then exactly described the king, until the native said, "Why, tliat is the very man ! " — when Tippu told him he was the son who had gone away with the old king, and that he was to go and tell all the people. This he at once did, when they came to him with presents of all kinds : and to make a long story short, he is king of that country at the present time. The following is a specimen of liic cruelty : — He was once attacked by a tribe, of whom lie succeeded in making some prisoners. He knew he would be attacked by them again, so he killed all the captives, and having cut them up small, he put them in large pots to boil, mixing up bananas and all sorts ol things, until a rich savoury aroma arose from the pots, AVhen he was attacked by the natives, he pretended to retreat, and watched his enemies — who had found the pots on the fire — set to and ravenously eat up theit own people. March 2nd. — . . . This morning Mr. Stanley read toll me Tennyson's * Ulysses.' . . . All the spare time I hadfl to-day I was reading the * Light of Asia.' . . . Sianleyp says he has got a copy -with him, too. He gave us all' the most lovely little medicine-chests to-day. March 3rrf. — Out of the tropics at last, and the| weather is decidedly cooler. . . . Not an item of interest,! again ! The oaly things which seem to change at all! on board are the horrible smelb from the crowd ofp natives ; and they only change in so far that they are ati times much worse than at others. . . . March 7th. — . . . I have heard the real story finnip Stanley as to how he got Tippu-Tib to come with iisj Before leaving England, he lieard that Tippu was inj March Sth.- EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS. 7 iZfinzibar. He at once tole liim. The answer arrived at 10 r.M. to have everythiupf ready to ship on board the Serpa Finto at 7 o'clock next morning, and Parke and Nelson to walk with tlieir men overland. March 21sf. — Stayed at the Dutch House with Mr. Cramer, who gave Nelson and myself beds, and the best of everything. Parke and Nelson started for Matadi. The Serpa Finto steamed past about 10 o'clock without stopping, leaving Mr. AValker and myself with the cargo on shore looking after her ! A little later the Por- tuguese gunboat came up with Barttelot on board, and took off most of the cargo. Then Jephson came down from Matadi in the Heron, and took off the remainder with my men. Arrived at Matadi about 5 o'clock, having had nothing to eat all day, and then had to tow i Augo-Ango. up the cargo in a lighter to Stanley, who was at the Portuguese Factory. I tramped back in the dark, thoroughly disgusted with everyone and everything, to get my first square meal that day. Visions of sketching &c. are rapidly fading. V i March 22 crises iuid nii House. Tlu lis light royt March 2:), and make u] distributed Avon't slioot lire c'()in])ariii witliout liea( March 24; over to tlie C but after tbi imictice witli ^^v\\. Uy.W l)()at, ill ordc March 2-"): of the worst of ciiider-lik tlireo times, ride liim ; Found the 1 it in the r backwards little river is- March 20, "Went ahea liuhtful wal and the co finch, black head of the greatest hos 3Iarch 27 for men wi who is one England, cc loads up coi DiAitr. 18 March 22)i(I. — TIard at work all day brrakin«jj open cases and makiiijj: u]) loads. Slept in the P()rtti«;uese 1 louse. They are very kind to us, and feed and " (hink " us ri^dit royally. March 2oyv/. — The crj' is still we break open rases and make up loads. Had a j»Tand ])arade of men and distributed liemin«»t()n rifles, witli v/liich I liope tliey won't slioot ns, and sj)ears, Avhicli from their rottenness are c()m))anitively harmless, half of them l)e''i«»- already witliout heads. March 24:th. — Marched about three quarters of a mile over to tlu' Conj^o State Station. They ijjave us lueakfast, but after that left us entirely to ourselves. Had some jmictice with the INlaximgun, which worked wonch'rfully well. Mr. Walker left for the Mposo lliver, Avith the iron boat, in order to put it toi»ethcr. March 2^)th. — Marched to the Mposo River, over one of the worst roads I have ever seen, up and down massifs of cinder-like rock and broken (puirtz : my donkey fell three times, and it was lucky I did not attempt to ride liim ; I very nearly shot him in sim])l(^ disgust. Found the boat not put tof>-ether, and when we did get it in tlie river, it took us hours to cross, ])ulling it backwards and forwards on a ro])e. This miserable little river is scarcely more than thirty yards wide. March 2C)th. — Marched to Mpalaballa ^lission Station. Went ahead of most of my men, and had a de- liii'htful walk. The road much better than yesterdav, and the country ver} pretty indeed. Shot a Wliydah finch, black, with yellow shoulders, ISlr. Clarke, the head of the Mission, and the ladies treated us witli the greatest hospitality. March 21th. — Remained all day at ]\r]nilaballa, waiting for men with loads from JNIatadi. ^let Mr. Ingham, who is one of our staff, and came out here straight from England, coming down with native carrieis to carry our loads up country, Avhicli are far in excess of the number Mar. '-'2 Muttuli. I I I 1-' \ 1 1 ( m:. 1 .-'.M 14 STORY OF rill' It FAR ('OfMMy. Mar. 27. Mpaln- bullu. III! of tlir /nnzihaiis. Kc ^iivc us ii very had iiccoimt of the condition of tlic stcaincrs on the rj)|)(M' Con^fD, 'I'lic country round here is very Ix-autiful, hut witiioiit any «jjani{', altliou^di bird and insect Mt'v, seem to hv on the increase. 1 was very l)usy all day sortinj^ loads, and parading men. March 2^fJi. — >rarc]ied to Massam Mankonin. T\ IC patli seems to be made to cut the soles off one's boots, and the donkeys do nothing but tuml)l(^ up the hills, or tumble down them. The order was ril '2>}fd. — In the morning we had a general parade of all the men, and Mr. Stanley addressed each com- pany in turn, and I noticed that all the lazy blackguards, who had given us the most trouble, were foremost in shouting out all sorts of fine things about going on to the end of the world with him ! After this came a drenching storm of rain, and then we marched six or seven miles across the valley and camped. April ord. — Had an awful day's work. Had to go with Barttelot as rear-guard. Started at 6 A.M., and did not get into camp near the Kuilu River until nearly 6 p.m. I had nothing to eat the whole day but the fifth part of a tin of sardines, and did not sit down for more than a quarter of an hour. The work was truly sickening, as every twenty yards one had to stop to put a load cu a man's head who had flung it down, and very likely give him a good dose of stick before he would go on. There was no rest upon getting into camp either, for I had to go over all my loads, stack them, and send out men to find those who had not come in. The work must greatly resemble slave- driving. I succeeded in shooting a swallow, which is the same as the small South- African one, and a bee-eater which is new to me. Both were skinned by the light f u small piece of candle, and the skins are worthless, s two days elapsed before I had a chance of drying them. ylpril Ath. — Marched on to the Kuilu River, a muddy apid stream, which we had to cross, ten men at a time, 1887. April 1. Banzit Mantektt. ' ("The town of mud.") pn an old dug-out canoe 'ongo Free State! Such is the great road of the This morning, in trying for the c STOin' OF THE REAR COLUMN. 1887. April 4. Kuilii River. first time to ride iny donkey across a muddy mr.rsh, hej fell and was nearly drowned, precipitatiiii^ me into thej mud (tlie l)lackest I ever have seen), which filled m-, saddle-l)afjfs containinii still getting men, loads, aiij donkeys across. Jpril C)fh. — Marched to Mwembi. On reaching tlifj top of a hill, I found all the baggage and tents lyinj on the side of the road, the men being about a quarteif of a mile off iu a native garden, pulling up manioc, and seizing whatever tiiey could. No shouts on my parto:i from the chiefs could bring them back, so, talving up i\ good stick, I ran down the hill towards them, ancj having waded through a swamp for about 150 yards,!! met the first man trying to sn( dv back, I applied nitf stick, and he made such a row that all the othcnl decamped, and when I regained the top of the hill, found all the tents and baggage gone on. On arrival at Mwembi. the news was brought to us that one ij our chiefs had been shot dead, and one of Tippu-TibJ men shot in the hand by some of the natives of si village which they had been looting. Went to bei!| dead beat. April 7th. — Marched to Vombo, quite the quickesil march we have done, owing to a good level road, audi Mr. Stanley doing rear-guard with some of his Soinali«l himself How he did lay his stick about the lazy oiieJ and the Somalis whacked away too. It was a sight fo:| sore eyes to see the lanu^, the sick, the halt, and tli(| blind running with their loads, as if they were featlier< and I was delighted to see some of my men catch hot, after I had been told bv Mr. Stanley himself iioi to strike them. The marcli was otherwise iiiiintere.stiiij DIAHY. 19 )vcr a high plateau, covered with lonf? rank grass, /hich cut oft' any view of the land. Camped in an old lativo village amongst palms, and collected a small unnbcr of butterflies. April Sfh. — Marched from Vombo to Lukungu Station. lie road lay v^through beautiful country, affording dimpscs on both sides of valleys filled with tropical 'euctation. Shortly after leaving camp a severe ihuiiderstorm came on. liarttelot and I were doing rear-/«'aard, with Stanley a little ahead of us. We both law one of tlie lightning flashes strike the side of a hill, Ibout 150 yards off", and a small cloud of dust and imoke immediately floated away from the spot. It was a ievere march, as some of the hills were bad, and the wet lade them worse. Stairs had to shoot his donkey, as his )ov led it badly down a steep place, and it broke its leg. was getting intensely annoyed with the carriers, who, lince Mr. Stanley went ahead, had done nothing but sit lown, and was generally down on my luck towards the tnd of the march, when I saw Parke seated under a ree. He gave me a drink of my own whisJvey, thirteen [ears old, and then everything changed to a brighter lue ; but it also lent strength to m.y arm, w^hen, w'ithin mile from camp, I found all the men had flung down icir loads, and gone off looting in the native gardens. seized a large stick and vent for them. It was more lan I could bear to be stopped within sight of camp, It the end of a long march. I laid about me, and soon ^ad them all in camp. April 9M. — Barttelot was sent on in the afternoon ith the Soudanese, and all the worst men in camp, all [y liimself, to be always one day ahead on the road to le Pool. It looks strange on Mr. Stanley's part to 3iid him by himself with the very worst and most jbellious lot in camp, Avho will not move a yard so )iig as they know that all tlie food is behind them. iarttelot hns done a lot of work which he need not (ave d(me, as it was beyond his actual duties, and it Jems a poor return for it all. c2 1887. April 7. Vombo. n 1 I ; ■ i :!!' : 'I -(I 20 SrOlir OF THE REAR COLUMN. 1887. April 10 ITiinbam- wunga. i:-^ , i . *' i.' \l ■1 ! April lOM. — After sending Jephson's men to MmivJ an«];a to meet hink and bring the boat on to Lntete, wo marched to Kimbamwanga, where our advanced guard ran into 15artteh)t's rear-guard, already proving that it was wrong to send him ahead. This morning Mr. Staulev placed me in a very false position with my men. Just as we were starting, I told him that one of my chiefs was very ill indeed, and that I did not think he could [ go on. lie told me not to bring him any reports ofj the kind, that he would not listen to them, and that hisj orders were for all the sick to go on, and that I was toj see that they did so. I only said, " Very well, sir." I beliaved very cruelly in making the man get up, amidstj the murmurs of all the chiefs, and then driving him oiif In a few yards he fell down, and could not get up, I Mr. Stanley, on passing, recognized him, and went up tof see how he was. He called to Ur. Parke to come to) him, and told him that, as he was a good man, we mm\l not lose him ; gave him medicine then, and left moiej with him, at the same time telling one of the officers otj the State to look after him, get him into a hut, and doj everything he could for him. Of course all the meii| now look upon me as a brute, and Mr. Stanley as a son! of guardian-angel, although I was only carrying out hisj own orders. My dog Bull ran away back to the Statioul at Lukungu, and, poor beast, I am not sorry, for there! he will be well looked after, and in camp 1 could no;l get him enough to oat. April 11th. — Marched to the Mpwka Eiver; a slionj march, brought to a close by the river itself being infuUj flood, with only an old rickety wicker-bridge, a few fee:j wide, over which to cross. We felled two trees ; but course they both fell in the wrong direction, as eveiTJ thing does in this beastly country ! By the time tlifl donkeys were swum over it was nearly dark. The woccj was too thick to put up the big tent, which is the woki and most useless of its kind I have ever seen in my Iife| Stairs and Nelson slept in part of it which they put iipj As it promised to be a fine night, Parke and I sle])t is DIARY, 21 ur Ashantce hammocks. Before retiring, we killed a iiirnificciit specimen of a centipede in Stairs' tent. I iis sleeping soundly when, towards morning, down ame a fearful thunder-plump, and befoio 1 could get > waterproof sheet over me it wetted all my bedding lid invself ; tlie rest of the night was not pleasant. Saw wo splendid kingfishers, and many beautiful butterflies n the river ; but it made me quite sick not to have a oment to collect anything. Got a beautiful shell- ackcnl spider with horns on the back, the same that I ave seen in Borneo ; but I lost it in the confusion of he next camp. Ajiril 12f/i. — Did a good long march over beautiful ountry to Lutete, where we found Jephson, who had ot in before us from Manyanga. lie gave me the most lowing account of the birds and insects on the river, liicli made my mouth water. Barttelot stayed with s, as half his men had gone on to Lutete, and the ilier half were so far behind ihat th(»y were too late to on. The whole idea of his going ahead with these en is a perfect farce. The march lay over beautifid ountry gradually rising all the way, the highest hill we limbed being 500 feet, measured by Stairs from the reek at its foot. From this point there was a lovely lew down to the Congo on one side, to Lutete on iiotlier, and behind us to the ISIpwka River. One of the oinalis died this morning, and several others are very ad indeed. April VdfJi. — Had a very easy day. Marched to jutctc, the English Baptist Mission Station, beautifully situated, standing very high, and I slioidd say quite icalthy. The missionaries received us with kindness, )ut did not ask us to feast with them ; I suppose we rere rather a rough-looking lot. Personally, I must say I am not so " genteel " looking as when I left town, )eing of a kind of brick-colour, with an untrimmed )Ciud of no great length, of a colour to match. One of the men was to-day placed in chains for stealing pota- toes. Poor Barttelot has a terribly rough time of it 1887. April 11. Mpwka River. ' If \ f \ i i Hi 22 STORY OF Tilt: RICAR COLUMN. 1887. April 13. witli tlie Soudanoso, as ho cannot jjjet thorn ahmjjf at anv prico. It is a spkMidid siijlit to soo Mr. Stanloy sottle a row. To-day somo of the Soiidanose and Zanzibiirisj began fighting about a c()oking-})ot, and awoke Mr, Stanloy, who was ask^op. lie seized a stick, ran in I and whacked away riglit and k^ft, giving one feUow a regular facer with his fist, and, in less time than itj takes to write this, there was perfect quiet ! April \ifh. — Had a long march ; but the men did I it splendidly. Made an early start, and camped at Nzungi. IJonny lost two of the pack-donkeys at Lutete, but turned up about 5 o'clock in the evening with them, Mr. Stanley's orders to him being that he need not turn up at all unless he found them I Bonny suspects the missionaries of having hidden them ; for, when he was left behind, they asked him to breakfast, and inquired how long he would wait for the] donkeys. He replied, probably three or four days.i that all his boys would be with him, and that the State. The :ir "\ DIARY. 23 missionaries would have to find them in everything, as Mr. Stanley had left tliem nothinjjj. Two of the mis- sionaries then went out, and returned in about an hour j;vith the two donkeys, saying that as they were taking a stroll they heard one of them bray in response to one belonging to the station. Bonny, however, thinks that the prospect of keeping him and his boys for three or four days produced the donkeys. April \^fh. — Marched to the Inkissi River. It is now quite a pleasure to see the men walk along cheerily with their loads. Our road lay for a long distance close to the banks of the Congo. Some of the glimpses of the river were very beautiful. I would give anything to have time to make a sketch, no matter how rough, of some of them. The foliage is gorgeous in colouring. Some of the palms bear a bright scarlet flower, growing in great clusters down the centre of each branch. About half-an-hour from here we passed a dead native tied upright to a pole, by the side of the path. Mr. Stanley says it is the body of a thief, put up thus as a warning to others, and that he was executed by the natives themselves. The body was there when Mr. Stanley camped in the same place three or four years ago, and is mentioned in his book on the Congo Free ",'*{• State. The natives here have catching birds by hanging long curious method of ropes, formed of 1887. April 14. Nsungi. ( liiiiill '{■■ < 'i I < 11 24 STOlir OF THE REAR COLUMN. 1887. April 15. Inkissi River. creepers, from the trees on the edge of the forest to polos stuck up in the ground about 15 or 20 yards ofi. Hanging from these ropes are numbers of snares, made H from finer creepers, in which the biids are caught as they fly past. April IC^th. — All day long crossing the Inkissi Rivor I luckily got across early with all my men, and had ;; glorious time amongst the butterflies, getting souk magnificent ones, though I daresay the more insii^. nificant, which I did not fail to catch also, will tuiiij out to be the rr.rest, as is usually the case. Last night was a horrible one. We slept in a deserted} native but which looked waterproof, and retired withj fond liopes of a good night; but about four hours | before daylight it began to pour, and poured on until I 7 o'clock. The water came in through the roof just! above my head and shoulders in torrents; and althoiiglij I had an umbrella up, and two coats over me, I was " drenched and all my bedding, which, by the bye, con- sists of Olio blanket and a waterproof sheet with some grass under it. ■R April 17th. — Had a long march. I had to do rear- guard, but now tliat the Zanzibaris go so well, it is not nearly so tedious or heart-breaking a business as it used to be. The birds all seem to be in bad plumage I for skinning, as most of the feathers are still in the quill, and they make the most horribly bare-lo(jking I skins. =;il •fe April 18th. — Marched to Nkalama. There is a most beautiful waterfall just below camp, where the IMpwka falls into the Congo. The Congo itself is remarkable for the masses of bare, black, horribly forbidding rocks which abound on either shore, and crop up here and there in reefs all over the river. Shot a warblei-, the skin of which I saved, T found out that one of the ammunition-boxes carried by my company had been I DIARY. 26 lost to-dJiy, so I roportod the matter to ISFr. Stanley after seudinj? back two chiefs all aloii^ the road to look for it. Mr. Stanley ordered the whole company to fall in, arid then made each man take a load from the heap of loads bronji^ht in. He asked the chief Avho had received the loads in camp to recopjnize those of the men who had l)r()nf2;ht in theirs, lie did not remember seeing one unfortunate man, so Mr. Stanley fixed npcm him as the man who had lost the box, althongh he is really one of my best carriers, and swore he brought in his box, and showed Mr. Stanley the tree he cut down to keep tlie boxes off the ground. Mr. Stanley then called the Somalis, and gave all my chiefs, with the ex- ception of the one who had received the loads in camp, "Hftv cuts each with a stick, whilst they were held down on the ground. He then gave to the man, whom he accused of having lost the box, a hundred lashes, asking him several times during the beating where the box was, — the man each time still s^vearing that hh box was in cam]). lie then chained and padlocked the chiefs all together, and accused me of losing three boxes of ammu- nition (which I flatly denied), and told me that in 77 it would have been death*, and if it happened again we must part. If this sort of thing is to go on, and he speaks to me again as he did to-day before the men, I sliould not be sorry if w'e did part, for I certainly will not keep my temper again. Afterwards I went to his tent, and asked him to explain his statement that I had lost three boxes of ammunition ; and this he utterly failed to do. He said, " You have three times reported to me ]){)xes lost." I then told him that the last time was onlv two days ago, when Dr. Parke and I had explained tlie matter to him, and Parke had handed over to me tlie box missing from my loads ; and the only other time I had reported a load lost, I had also reported to him its recovery. If he goes on much more like this, I shall get sick of the whole thing. He has failed to * 1877 was the date of Mr. Stanley's return journey 'Through the Diirk Coutinent.' — Ed. 1887. April 18. Congo River. :-' '. |ii i^ vm. i\ c ^ m ■\ l! \ '. 9: ; \ n ^ i ! 26 STORY OF TlIK It i: A It COLUMN. 1887. April 18. Congo Ri ver. find out tho man who lost tho box, and has dcf^radod three of my cliiefs, who were simply tlie best men I hiivc ever seen. They are to carry loads to-morrow, and I dtm't know how to fill tlieir ]daces. 1 heard fVoin Stairs to-day that at present the IStanley is the onh steamer ready to take? ns up tho Con^o from the Pool. The Kn men. I }j;()t my t]nii«^s tofjotlior ns quickly us nossihlo, and of course, in my excitement and ea«»er- iicss, foij^ot the two most im|)ortant thiny/. — I started at daybreak ; and although I sliot tAvo hipjios, I only succeeded in getting one of them, as the Bangala, whom I left to watch the first one rise, went sound asleep, and let it float down the Congo. 1 returned in triumph, however, with the meat to camp. The Bangalas are the greatest savages I ever came across, and about the most difficult to manage. They simply do nothing exce])t when it suits their fancy, although they are splendid men when they do work. On returning to Leopoldville, I heard of great rows going on about the steamers. It appears that, after all, the missionaries had refused to lend the Henry Heed, as one of them (the engineer) was going down to the coast to be married. (This steamer, with the Peace and the Stanh'y^ are the only three available to rake us up the river.) They had taken away some parts of the machinery to render her useless, so Mr. Stanley sent down a guard of Soudanese under Major Barttelot to the Mission House, with orders that if the pieces were not given up, the house was to be searched, and a second guard under Jephson to take April 23. Leo 1)0 Id- Til )l)0l( ille. ^ ; ' II r' 88 STour OF riiK reau column. 1«87. April 'jn. Htunlnj Tyol. I' i cliar^o of tlio stoatiuM'. TIkmi tlio rliiof of tlio station, Mr. Liebrichts, said that Mr. Stanley was wronj^ in actin|j; as ho had, hut that ho couhl make it all rijjjlit, as the State has the power of takiiif^ the Mission steamers whenever they are rocpiired ; so he removed the Soudanese, rei)la('in}j^ them hy his own }j;uards. 'I'lic missionary who was ^oin<»; to be married, said he iiud considered the whole matter over with (iod, as Mr. Stanley .says, "even to the third watch," and that liu could not lend her. April 2Uh. — This morninjj; I liear the matter about the steanuT is satisfactorily Mrriini;"ed ; and Mr. AN'alkui goes as en11 ])aid for. Meat is so badly wanted that 1 am otl' a,i;'ain uj) the Pool to shoot more hippos. This time, however, I am not going' without food or a moscpiito (jurtain. Mr. Liebrichts is sending one of tlie otHcers of the State also, as he wants meat for the men of the station. Mr. Stanley has the mails intercepted before reaching Leopold ville, so that the missiouiuies cannot receive unfavourable advice about lending their steamers. April 2^}fh. — Tlic Free State officer started this morning in the large canoe, leaving me the small one, out of which it was simply impossil)le to shoot. His ])ro- position was that, when wa saw hippos, one of us should go to the other side of them, that they might be driven li'om one canoe to the other. I did not quite see this, as the river is narrow between the islands, and I thought of the bullets that would be flying about when one rose between us ; so shortly after starting I took a line of my own, and soon shot one, more by good luck than good guidance, as the moment I raised the rifle to Are, over went the canoe on one side. I unfortunately lost this hippo, as I shot it in a rapid current between two islands, and it was carried down before rising. I had a tiresome wait on a sandbank in a scorching sun for four hours ; but no hippo came u]3. I shot another Inter, and it did not rise before dark; so we lost it also. DIARY. 29 Jnril 2C)f/i. — Got up with a (listiiict toiicli of fever, niul vcrv shaky ; hut as I saw soin(» hippos uot far off, and su('(;(hmUm1 in iuakiu«^ some nativ(»s h'n fifth tliue that I killed it. The way that tlie nani^ahri sliouted, and darted round and round him in the canoe, was -reat )ing a canoes 'day. I Lcl get At the lit on of it since nakes iiing, " 8 P.M. The ('amp, Leopoldvillc. — I arrived liere safelv a few lioiirs ago ; the canoes turned up at noon. The fever has quite left me. ... A moment ago a perfect tornado of ihunder, lightning, rain, and wind came on, and I had to jump up and make the tent riu'ht. Thank ]Ieaven, I am not on that sandbank! 'i'lu' natives here seem very much like those of the ^Mashona country. They have the same kind of * pianos ' *, and there is a great similarity of language, jhut thev are not nearly so far advanced in agriculture. The Uangalas who were with me in the canoe came froni liigher up the river, and are the people whom Stanlev fought. They have never forgiven him for killing the brother of their chief. TJiey are cannibals, and file all their teeth into points. They told me that one of their chiefs, who was very rich, is nov/ quite poor from buying nice, fat, young women to eat ; this I know to be a fact. The price of one is from three to fonr hundred kantakas (short brass rods, which are the money of the country). They eat all those whom they kill in battle. They remove the inside, stuff them with bananas, and roast them whole over a big fire. I can believe anything of them from the little I have had to do with them. The Pool is full of lovely birds, many of which 1 know to be very rare. A^'e have all had one or two rather disagreeable moments wdtli Mr. Stanley, bnt I think they are over for the present. I cannot help admiring him immensely for his great strength of will and power of overcoming difficulties ; but there are some points in his character which I cannot admire. I will give you an instance. One day, whilst talking to Dr. Parke, he told him that he hacl heard that two of the boxes of provisions had been opened by the white men — meaning the officers. Dr. Parke asked him who told him. He replied, some of his Zanzibaris. Parke then told him that the only two cases opened were o])ened to get out arrowroot and milk for himself (Stanley), when he had dysentery, and that he could not understand his listening to tales about the officers from * See sketch on page lOG. — Ed. 18S7. April 27. Leopold* ville. 32 STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN. 1887. 4.pril 27. I^eopold- ville. the nifi^Ejcrs. He had a row with Stairs in exactly tlio same way. Stairs' donkey broke its leg *, and he liad to shoot it. I saw the broken leg myself. When he reported the matter, Mr. Stanley informed him that ho had been told that the leg was not broken, ar.'l that he shot it in a rage ; and when asked who had told hiin. said, " Some of Tippn-Tib's people." Stairs then gave him a real good piece of his mind on the subject. It is impossible for any one calling himself a gentleman, and an officer, to stand this sort of thing. The fact is. this is the first time Stanley has ever had gentlemen to deal with on an expedition of this sort." ■:i:!l Sii DIAET (continued). April 27th. — Ai'rived at camp about 5 o'clock. The meat had nearly all gone bad, and the voyage down the Pool, in a hot sun, with the stinking meat, was anything but pleasant in the condition I was in. I was greatk amused wdth the Bangalas' method of buying fish from the natives. I landed one day on a sandbank to wait for a hippo to rise, and I noticed all the Bangalas going oi^" to the shore, where there were three native canoes full of fish. I asked my boy where they were going. He replied, "To buy fish." The Bangalas suddenly made a rush at the canoes, upset the natives from out of them, beat them with their paddles, and returned loaded with cooking-pots, young crocodile ready cut up, fish, native bread, and water-bottles made of gourds. I saw some very fine darters, larger thau any I saw in South Africa. Shot a spur-winged plover. with beautiful bright orange wattles and pale lemon- green coloured legs. April 2StJi. — Murched to Kinshassa. Dined with Mr. Greshoff, who gave us the best of everything. Ajm'l 2^fli. — I saw the natives bringing in a num- ber of fish exactly like our barbel — scales, beard. * See Diary, April &th. tate service. DlAUr, 33 lonlli, tail, and evorythinOth. — Two hundred men went off" under Nelson id Stairs to try and get the Florida into the water, as le slips, on which she was, had broken down when ley tried to launch her. Mr. Greshoft' very kindly led my large silver flask with spirits of wine for jetlcs*. This vrill be invaluable to me for collecting the march. In about three hours' time the men kurned, having successfully launched the Florida. [bout 3 o'clock the Stmihy and Henry Reed came Und from Kinshassa, followed by the Feace from [eopoldville, and by our iron boat, which has been iristened the Advance. Before dark we had them all Jaded, and ready for the men and donkeys to be put board in the morning. Just as we were ffnishing, ''ard and Troup turned up in a canoe from Leopold- le. Mr. Stanley has decided to take Ward with ; he was originally in the employ of the State, Iter on in the Sanford Expedition, and has now joined [r. Stanley. Mr. Troup was formerly in the Free late service. I* This flask (containing beetles), with the bulk of Jameson's colleo- [)n, never reached England. — Ed. 1887. April '1% Kinahtissa i ■- ■ '. \ i v 1 \ ■> ' 1 1 1 :i; '{ '.■yMi^'^'''^- u STOliY OF THE Itr.Ali COLUMA\ found large c 'Hi vjir II, Jl 1887. May 1. Upper Congo. CHAPTER III. May 1st to June 7th. Start up the Upper Conpo. — Scen'ryon the Pool. — Spiders' webs. — ^fswatil — IJula Matadi. — Man proposes, and God disposes. — Bolobo. — Biitlii; | hunt. — Jameson is informed that he is to be left at Yambuya. — Lootir: — Lulvulela. — Scenes with Stanley. — Equator Station. — 1 >iue witli Jl: Cilave. — Uranga. — Bangala. — Tloussas eaten by natives. — Fever,- Upoto. — Stanley's distrust of his officers. Sunday, May 1st. — At last we have made our fiiiall start up the Upper Congo, and on a lucky day. Tlif[ Henry Reed Avent first with Tippu-Tib, all his people, aucl Bonny and Walker on board, towing two whale-boatil full of men. We came next in the Stanley, towing tlitj Florida. Towing is not the right word, as both tlitl Henry Eeed and the Stanley are stern paddle-^vheell steamers ; they have to make both boats fast alongside] Stairs, Nelson, Jephson and myself, the Captain, eiigij neer, and 1G8 men, with three donkeys, made up number. Next came the Peace with Mr. Stanley, servant William, and Ward on board. We steamed oil to Kimpoko, where the American Mission is (Bislioi Taylor's). We landed all the men to cut Avood fortkp jmoriiing sun n iDover, and are ^he Mosanibicu elephant-tracks behnv the Bla( farge and smal sure they would jbr a sportsman ffit ought to at 3ut a few old el DfAltV. 36 steamer, and finislicd by moonlis I have ever seen ; but 1 did not get a sliot at tliem. The scenery on the Pool is coinjdetely spoilt by the numbers of low sandy islands, covered with l()n<»: rank i^rass, upon which tlie hippos feast, and where I fomid large colonies of pigeons and numbers of small herons, il/r/y Ind. — Mr. Walker and Bonny turned up while VsQ were at dinner, and complained bitterly of the man- Incrs and customs of Tippu-Tib and his people on the \]lenry Heed, their v;ays not being European ways. The upper end of the Pool is much finer than the I lower; tlie hills are higher, and the vegetation more luxuriant. Perhaps for the first time you realize what a s])lendid river the Congo is, as you see it in one grand juulnoken stream, not inclosed by rocks as below, but [flowing between beautifully wooded hills, their sides [covered with tropical forests right down to the water's ledge, and their tops with bright green grass, and small Icluinps of trees dotted here and there. At the end of [the Pool are some sandstone? cliffs, which, wnth the Imorning sun upon them, Iook: exactly like the cliffs of jDover, and are named after them. May drd. — Passed a very large crocodile, numbers f large geese, and several white eagles with brow^n ings and tail. Saw a nightjar, apparently larger than he Mosambicus, but same colouring, and plenty of lephant-tracks for the first time. We stayed just We could see feel me tliey would take the fly. It is very disappointing br a sportsman to pass through a country that looks as f it ought to abound with game, and then see aothing lit a few old elephant-tracks and crocodiles. Mat/ ith. — At some places to-dav I should sav the d2 1887. May 1. Stanley Pool. )el()w the Black River for the night larsje and small fish rising at insects all dav ; I '*!■ I r i r. 1 1 ■■rii ,•.'! 1887. May 4. Congo River. 36 STORY OF TIIK HEAR COLUMN. river was quite a mile and a half wide. The hills are much lower, and on the riglit-liand bank the foicst grows only along the water's edge. The landscape is altogether much tamer. Saw a beautiful pure white heron (about the size of our common English one), many spur-winged plover, hornbills, and geese. There a i Diagram of Spiders' Webs. ■h\ ,M' is almost a total absence of swifts and swallows, which is curious, as the Lower Congo abounded with different kinds. Saw a few guinea-fowl, of the common specie?, [ and not the crested variety I expected to see. Ele- phant-tracks again abounded in the forest, which is I full of giant creepers. . In it I noticed a curious colony | of spiders. There were four trees at equal distances forming a square, and near to the top of each a spideil had attached one corner of his web, so that it huni: from the four corners just like a blanket. About a fooi below this one was another exactly similar, and agaii a third below it, and so on to within a few feet of tlie «i DIARY. 37 (Trniind. There were at least six or eip:ht webs. Each si)i(ler took up liis station at the centre ])oint of his web, wliich was a tliicker part tlian tlie rest, and cnp- slKii>e(l. Between these suspen(UMl webs were others ui)iimht, connectini? them, so as to catcli anytliin«2: tiyin<> l)et\vcen. Enormous quantities of ants, of every size and description, swarmed in tlie forest, and made it anytliinu: but a pk\asurc to walk therein. In the nijjjht the men started off to some manioc plantations a long way from the steamer, and returned loaded with roots ; and tlie noise with which t^^e others in camp greeted them was enouoh to waken the dead. For nearly the whole of the night they did nothing but shout, cook, and eat. MdjI ^)tli. — Reached ^VFswata at 9.30 a.m., where we found Barttelot and I*arke flourishing. Their tent was pitched right in the centre of the main street of the town, if it may so be called, and amidst ({uantities of bananas. The old chief was most friendly and anxious to see " Bula Matadi," as all the natives call Mr. Stanlev. The meaning" of the name is "• Stone-breaker," and it was given him whilst at Vivi. One of the Zanzibaris was trying to lireak a large rock, and striking it in the wrong direction. Stanley noticed the lay of the cleavage and took the hammer, sending the stone flying in pieces with one blow. This so astonished the natives that they at once called him Bula Matadi, and he is universally known all over the country by this name and no other. Mswata in Stanley's time was one of the Congo State stations, but, like many others, has been abandoned. The chief has the same mark of 1887. May 4. Congo River. .'«l'1f i i i\ 't 'i:U ' ■ ■; H "i f! 38 STORY OF THE It 11 Alt COLUMN. I i: l?'^'b '^istinctioTi as old Makoko, uamoly a cliin-whiskoi, Mswuta 'lividcd into two curls, 'i'lioy divido tlioir liair into t^v ioii^' tails, Olio on oac-li side of tlio forolirad, bcndin^ outwards, exactly in tlio slia])o of buffalo horns, hik! sornotimes liavo one in tlie middle also. 'Die nunilxi of these liorns is evidently a sij^n of the decree of raiil\ of the wearer, tlie greatest swells having tlie lartros: number. I wei>t for a stroll tlu'ough a lovely f( rosi. full of mall '^ii'efms, at the bank of the town, and oo; a '''orl' i;! 1..! oi u 3W butteiHies. This is the first i)lii(( where 1 i;:* ^■■.' ; iliced a decided change in the buttcrflicv from thoor of ih^ Lower Congo, some of them bein^ very beautiful, lia/ttelot and Parke are to march t Kwamouth. They dined with us, and we spent a von pleasant evening. Mr. Stanley sent for Stairs after dinner, and told him we were to go on straight t Bolobo with as little delay as possible, and there to ask the chief's leave to land our men for a few days, as tl:i last time Stanley was there he was fired upon, and they had to burn down tlie town. Wliilst it was a Free State station and Mr. Liebrichts vras in command, tliev had no jialavers, and burnt the town both times ; so ivi wonder the natives don't like the white man. Mr. Stanley says, if they refuse to let us land, we must occupy one of the inlands o])])()site to the town, and await his ariival. He thinks it is about even chances that ^ve hav e a row. May Cith. — Kever came a saying more true than did the old one to-day, "Man proposes, and God disposes." We were hours ahead of botli the otlier steamers, boasting by how far we should beat the Peace u]) to tlie Falls, if we were allowed to go ahead, all sitting in the top deck-house with the Captain, when tliere came a violent bump, then another, and another, and w were stuck fast on the toj) of a lock, with the water pouring into three compartments, through about five holes in our bottom, and we three or four hundred yards well out in the river! Luckily the Zanzibaris behaved splendidly, sitting perfectly still and doing as Ithcy W(':-<^ tol( jk<'<'|> the wal All. V])on , a large fl. ■ ^\. tei on any ';, .teiied aloiii .^y .(Is aii.l don ^,iid not touch. Itlio f()r\»ard c( water-tight co Avatcr from ga were safe. ^^ stern, and dro jstonn came up round, and w( !with one moi I deep water, br I with a lump o: speed ahead buckets, as oui boats on to a s i above the seen I came in time, f Florida would 1 most of the am and stuff to 1 Sfanlei/. I th times, that we view passing which is reall (which runs i: Cougo, being r Mai/ 1t]L—\ llenvij Reed ap |8.o0 A.M., so W( them about the it. Much late] to the opposit [Beed whistled, ■liiskcr, ito tWi) cndiiiir us, iiiifl innihcr :)f' rank UlALtr, 39 All II-; a:^ licv \V(*:o told. With tlio aid of buckets wo could just tlio water from <^aiuiii(cii moving above the w o'cese were aiid white ea and again g out of the 1 tnmhling ovc colours glitt( dart (Hit, hov |iarendy dive pensively ga/ cranes stood c()nt(Mn])lati()i TluMi a heavy of wliich the with a backg and one longi people at hor \illages of br of th(> ])lanti them, the ca tishing-nets 1 with s])ear in snhjeets for t Maji nth. sitnated, looL river. Foum first tii7ic sa"s\ to meet. Th Traordinary fi tlie forehead I lie eves. O ,:- -^i^ DIARY. 41 jrCCSC puttiiiu: tlir ])liit('s on l)y 11 ()'(;l()ck ; the former left for |{,,I„i)() at I2.:;(i. Mdij \i)fh. — To-day tine scoiicry bccaiiH^ very boan- tii'iil. I 111' river widened to jil)out four miles, and was (l()tt(«(l all over with small islands eover(»(l with tropical tnliiiU'e. At th(» l)a('k of every sandbank or island, in the still water, tlie heads of the hi|)|)o])otami conld l)t3 seen iiiovini; up and down, or their Ion*;* backs jnst above tlie water restini;' on the banks. ^lUnilxMs of were W5idin\('r and aii'uin ^or«;-eous bee-eaters and kine, their (olours <^litterin<;' in the sun. The kin«i:tishers would (lavt out, hover for a moment over the water, then a])- parcntly dive into it, to return to their p(Tch, and sit pensively i;a/in<»; down at the river below them. I^artijc (laiios stood solemnly on the banks, absorbiMl in the (•()ntein])l}ition of some deep and monuMitous subject. Then a heavy thunderstorm passed over us, in the midst (if which the far shore stood out in bri<>ht sunlii>ht, with a backjjjround of ex(piisite nnnintains and valleys, and one lon<>'ed for the skill of an artist to i^'ive to the jK^ople at home an idea of this mai^'nificent river. The villiif^es of brown huts, embedded in the i^'or^-eous i>'reen of the ])lantains, with «»-iant trees towering- all around tlicin, the canoes lyin«>' on the sandy beach, with the tishin,i>-nets hnni»; out to dry, here and ther(^ a native with s])ear in hand — all these scenes furnished splendid subjects for the artist — who is not with us J\r(ni Wfh. — Arrived at Bololx), Avliich IS pr >ttily )f the situated, lookin<»' over one of the broadest ])arts o ii\er. Found fresh buffalo-tracks to-day, and for the first time saw the crested guinea-fowl which I expected to meet. The natives here })aint tluMnselves in an ex- traordinary fashion, some havini;- a black band across the forehead with white lines drawn over and under the eyes. Others have long white lines running- down 1KS7. Mii^ 9. U ivcr. 1 • It I. ^lil J m w. 42 STDliV OF Till-: ]ii:Alt COLUMN. Miiy II. Uulobo. , 1 tlic sliouldcrs and iiniis, luid tlic snnic down tlic foicliciul and n()s(». Soino of tlic lines nrc blue and yellow tor ;i variety. The knives and ax(^s are v(My tine, hnt tlicy will not part with them. Their s))(Mirs n'senihle the Mashona s])ears. 'I'lieir :iittelot and Parke, for we did not e\|)(»rt theni until to-iiiorrow. Mr. Stanley has rearranged all tho (((ni|';inies, and min(? is entirely broken n|) ; he has tiiken a lot of the l)est men from n(»arly every company to niiike n|) his own to its full strener share of honour; but whatever he may say about it, it makes me mad to think of it. When he told me, I merely replied "Very well. Sir," as I knew that somebody must 1)0 left. I am quite sure that Major IJarttelot had already asked him to leave me with him as his lieu- tdiaiit, his chief reason bein<>- that he was afraid he would not pull s well with some of the other officers. It is fri<.i:litfully hai d luck on me. Mr. Stanley told me to get a canoe, and find out as much as I ]>ossibly could about the river. The natives are a bad lot, and I behove we will have to fi-ht side of the whole thinerson. The river to-day widened out very much, l)eing dotted ovci' with small and large islands. I am trying hard to look at the bright side of my being left at the entrenched camp— the collecting, sketching and figliting — but 1 cannot L>et over a thorough feeling of disa})pointinent. 3Iaii iCitli. — Jvst as we were leaving the natives l)euaii to return, and were in a fearful rat'e when tliev missed their tilings, though some of them were willing to trade. and we got a ihw fish and bananas from them. if ^'■^ P' fid } u M' ) •! ' r ■I '*J»>^^ FisiiEKMAN's Hut. [Page 47,] Maf/ 17 fh over liiilf an tlic wood-cai the coiisequc Jf(f//lSth. wv made fasi wliicli liad a and tlic rivci tree ^v]lic•h s stcauiiiii^'foi" within l-")0 Staii's and B; tlic noise in ([nick mareli of both elej)h SidiiU'ii start liead well n]> or three time into the bus The Doctor ci goodness, I a May 20th that tlie mos hai)j)ened bet It a|)|)ears tin and chiefs Ave officers Inid if Stanley sent i the food from looted (for dc of that day, " assuiin/ llth. — Very soody. Last mTeat fun to see tlie Sf/ni I ('// iit'dvt in the mornin*^; ; before they can i>et her head well u])-stream, slie waltzes round and round two or three times, sticking her stern and bows alternately into the bushes, exactly like a toy boat in a stream. The Doctor came on board to-night and saw me. Thauk •roodness, I am much better. Mni/ 2{)th. — This morning, I am sorry to say that tlie most disgraceful row I luive ever heard of happened between Mr. Stanley and Jephson and Stairs. It a})pears that early this morning a number of the men and chiefs Avent to Mr. Stanley, and complained tluit the officers had ilung away their rations for one day. Mr. Stanlev sent for Stairs. The men swore they had bought the food from the natives last Sunday at the village tliey looted (for description of how they hoiUfJit it, se(! diary of that day. May loth). Stairs told Mr. Stanley tliis, assui'ing him that only stolen stuff was taken away from tlicm, and sent for J{»plison, who gave tlie same testimony. It is still (pdte evident tliat Mr. Stanley takes tlie word of the Zaiizil)aris (m every occasion before tliat of tlie wliite men, and wlien lie saw that he had hold of rather the ^Tong end of this stick, lie attacked them aboul (heir 1887. May 17. Congo River. 4S STOliY OF Till': HEAR COLUMN. 1887. May 2(). Lukulela. tyrniiny to tlio men. TFo attacked them in a frantic stat(% stamping; \\\) and down tho dock of the Peace. lie called ,Ie])lis()n all sorts of names, a " G — d d — n son " of a sea-cook," " Yon d d ass, yon're tired of mc, ot " the Expedition, and of my men. Go into the bnsh, <>(.t^ "I've done with yon. And yon too, Lientenant Stairs, " yon and 1 will part to-day ; yon're tired of me. Sir, I can "see. Get: away into the bnsh." Then he tnrned round to the men (about 100) sittinfjj down, and spoke Swaliili to the effect that the men were to obey us no more, and that if Lieutenant Stairs or Jephson issued any orders to them, or dared to lift a hand, they were to tie them n]) to trees. He had already told Stairs that he had only to lift his hand for the men to throw him into the sea. He lastly offered to fi^'ht Jephson, " If yon want to fits one thiu! to one of us t which would furiiHis fact, men who com! orders, issued] severely fiogg( l)(>l>'iuning to f1 Mr. Stanley, .1 quite the bigj mutilated. (- civsted lory; carrv it becau liornbill. The timber, and th ao-aiust the d beautiful pictu Mail list.— the Peace and tlie wood was Mr. Stanley's o I keep within si| n-oing wrong, t'orencxm ; a lit which came or run short. Th l/i it is 4 P.M., an 1 1 between us. 1 ferent routes, This is keepii vengeance ! May 22nd. were passing scenery. Om* tliat seemed to the forest, the now and again river covered v now, and even K.S? .■?■ 1 :4. ^'h ^.„ lie iiid 'vi- >l{)t lirs DIARY 49 ad ail 11 ii or- i -I ^j rrcts one thine:, liowovor, that if thoy flmod to lift a hand t'o Olio of ns thoiv wonhl bo a tcMrihlo h)t of them shot, which wonhl rathor weaken his I'Apedition. It is a curious fact, when one tliinks over it, that tlio very nicii wlio coin])lained to Mr. Stanley oui;ht, by his own orders, issued when wc left the Pool, to have been s(>v(M'clv tioi^ijed. Sneli is life! Thank «>-()odness, I am l)('<;iiiiiini;' to feel myself a«>-ain. On his way back from Mr. Stanlev, Jephson broni;ht mc an enonnons spider, quite the biijjgest I have even- seen, although rather mutilated. One of the men bvou<>lit me a sidendid crested lory ; I skinned it, bnt am ])uzzled how to caiTV it because of its size, which is about that of a lionibill. The villai^-e here stands amidst beautiful timber, and the huts shine out like gold in the sunset au'ainst the dark shadows of the forest, making a beautiful ]:>icture. Maij "list. — We did not start for a good hour after the Fence and llcnvj/ Kcrd^ the engineer said because tlie wood was too wet, and they could not get iq) steain. Mr. Stanley's orders were that all the steamers were to keep within sight of each other in case of anything i;oiug wrong. We came in sight of them early in tlie tbiciUKm; a little later they stopped because of a storm whicli came on, and we stop])ed to cut wood, ha\ ing run short. They have now^ both gone on out of siglr ; it is 4 P.M., and I sliould think there must be mil > h(>tween us. The Henry Beed and the Peace took ( - t'crent routes, and we are staying here for the nii;iiC. 'lliis is keeping within sight of one another wit' a vengeance ! May 22nd. — Until about 12 o'clock to-d; we were passing through the most lovely tropical forest scenery. Our ]:)assage lay through long lanes of water, that seemed to be cut like canals through the centra' of the forest, the right bank being the mainland. K\ ery now and again we could catch a glimpse oi the gn^at river covered with islands. The rainy season has sc'* m nu^v, and every afternoon, as regulaily as chx'kwork, at 1S87. M:xy 'JO. Congo River. i . s I ! I ! itH m ;, r r •, !i 1 50 STORY OF TllK RKAR COLUMS. 1387. May 132. Congo River. three or four o'clock, up comes a storm which Lists until niglitfall. May 2o?v/.— Started at S.oO well ahead of the Ilmn Reed and Peace^ wliicli we liad cauglit up yestenJay evening, ])ut ours was a short-lixed glory, for we very soon ran short of wood, and at 11 o'clock had to stop and cut some. Started again at 2 o'clock, and steamed until i) o'clock. More woodcutting, dinner, and bed. It is beginning to be decidedly monotonous. to Mai/ 2'ifh. — We all reached Equator Station shortly after 5 o'clock. This is one of the nicest looking stations we liave yet seen. We have been passing numerous native villages very prettily situated on the edge of the f(n'est, and of which the huts are now changing in sliape altogether, and a good many of them are stockaded. Some are very long, with angular-shaped roofs, and many doors to them. Tlie spears, too, have changed in shape ; they are very light in shaft and blade, being used for throwing only, Avliereas those lower down the river are heavy-bladed and are used for stabbing. The palm-trees here are curiously ragged in appearance, owing to the attacks of the weaver-birds, who haye stripped them of almost all their leaves, with which they build their nests on other trees. The natives are a finer-looking people, resembling the Bangalas I saw at the Pool. I was delighted to hear that the Peacf had to stop and cut wood as well as ourselves, for Mr, Stanley had been blaming us for loitering on the road. 2fai/ 2bth. — Went on shore early with the axemen to cut wood. In the afternoon, Mr. Glave, who now belongs to the Sanford Expedition*, came on board, and asked us all to dine. He was formerly in the service of the Free State, but has left it like many more, as rats leave a sinking ship. I notice that one of the chief occu- pations of the Belgian officers at the different stations is to civilize the country by adding to the population * The Sanford Expedition was an Ivory Trading? Company, called the Sanford Kxidoring Company ; vide ' Darkest xiliica,' vol. i. p. !K}.— Ed, DiAitr. 51 s])('(imcns of half-broods, as tlioy aro all moro or loss inairiod to iiativo womoii. This mode of civili/ation scHMiis to be adoptod by all tho whito mon horo, whothor otticcrs of tho State or not. I saw some beautiful porch, almost exactly like our own. ^V^e dinod with Mr. (ilavc, and during dinner Captain Van (iolo related a story about some wonderful river, a tributary of the Coii'^o, which he had been ex])l()rini»;, and from which ho had brought some ivory mallets, used for crushing corn or manioc. He ])roduced them, and was greatly annoyed when both Dr. Parke and I declared them to bo honc^ and not ivory at all ! This, I am sorry to say, (lamped the conversation. The ivory here is very large indood. Amongst a lot bought by Glave for the San- ford Expedition were tusks of 118, 111, 97, 95, and 90 lbs. Much of it is greatly discoloured through having been buried. He only paid "Is. 2d. a lb. for the 118 lb. tusk, which is a fairly white one. Ma)/ 26M. — Steamed all day through the u,,n .1 num- ber of wooded islands. Close to where we made fast for the night was a small bare sandbank, inhabited by a small colony of the most beautiful terns I have ever seen. The top of the head, neck, and back are all black ; throat, breast, and belly are pure white ; bill and legs red. They are, I think, similar to two which I observed at Stanley Pool. As I had no small boat, I could not get a shot. AVe had the usual woodcutting business in the jungle, became covered as usual with the ants, and later on up came the usual thunderstorm. Mr. Stanley's orders are that we are not to go ahead of the Peace, and the Henry Reed has to obey the same orders. Mr. Stanley has ordered Parke to come on with us in the Stanley, and Jephson to take his place in the Henrji Heed, because he says there are so many sick on the Stanley and Florida. However that may be, it seems a mistake putting Jephson on the same steamer with Tippu-Tib and his men, as he i.as already had one rather nasty row with Salem, Tippu's brother-in-law. May 27th. — After a verv short piece of steaming and E 2 1887. May •-'.-). Kqiuitor Stution. ,1' 52 STORY OF THE REAR COrj'MN 1887. May 27. Uriinga. I' ;htfnlly slowly to keep bcliind the Peace, no roached Umiifjjii at lO.:)!) a.m. Mr. Stanley is a " blood, brother " of the chief of this ])lace. I try every coiicciv. able ])laii to protect my speciineris from the ants, l)ut tliou^h I may succeed for a short time \\\v\ arc sure to defeat me at last, I noticed many of the spears here ic. seml)le the Mashona ones, having' a lon Kin«j^of the Bolivians, aiul went on to say that we were here at the very last point of civilization between us and Zanzibar. The s])e(>(li ended by his ])ro])osin^ the healtli of the King of the Belgians, which was duly drunk. Major Harttelot, with forty of the best of the Souda- nese, goes on to Stanley Falls in the Ilenrj/ lieedy wluMe he leaves 'ri])])u-Tib, and comes u]) the Aruwimi to where we are to make the entrenched camp, about I2li miles up the river. The reason that Stanley is sendiii\sf.—'V\\v Ucnn/ licfd loft for the Falls, witli \|;ijor liarttclot and Tij)!)!!-'!'!!), at a.m. .Mr. Stanley ^■„„|^„ Ict'r ill the Pcaif at noon. Our www strolled on hoard Hiver. (Videiitly jnst as they ])loase(l, and we did not ^et iiwav for a jjfood hour and a half after him. Since that speech of liis to them at Lukulela they hav{3 lost what little sense* of disci|)line they ever had. We all lunched with iMons. Jiaert, and a capitul lunch he o;iV(' US. Major Barttclot left nineteen of the Soudanese and Alexander (one of the interpreters) in my cliari;c until he arrives at the Aruwimi camp. Alexander and four others are in a very had state, and one of the men espe- ( ially I do not expect to live; more than a few days. They are the most helpless and di^sponding lot of men when they are at all sick that I ever came across. I riied to huy a very curious knife from one of the Han- i^idas this mornini^, hut he asked such an absurd ])rice fur it that I told him he ought to keep it at home for tear of losing it. The Captain tcld us to-day that at Manyanga, on the lower Congo, a hip])o that was on sliore was fired at, and, charging through the village, ran dean through the middle of the walls of a house on to the roof of which a lot of people had retreated. Jme 1st. — Kept steaming away all day behind the Peace until nearly sunset. Went to bed with a distinct touch of fever. June 2nd. — Had to lie up all day. June ord. — Bad night ; had to lie up again all day, liiit got better towards evening, thanks to old Parke, who has given me the right medicine to begin with, and t()p})ed it up with arrowroot, milk, and brandy. Tliere are enormous quantities of orchilla-weed all along the south bank, and for the last three days we have passed through one continuous stream of the common white butterfly of the Congo, all migrating from the south bank to the north. A day or t\\'o before 1 saw them crossing the river I noticed them tiying il '\ m ki i ■ ■ ! I f ' ' I 1 I 1 1 ■i;, :!.; ^■k.^'T^X, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ .^\ 1.0 1.1 12.8 m m ■ 2.2 HN I 2.0 IJil 1 1-25 11.4 1.6 « 6" ► '/ ^ '■!> ■) Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. US80 (716) 873-4903 ^vV >^^<^ ^V^ 1 * V <\ 56 HTOny OF THE HEAR COLUMN. 1887. June 3. Congo River. thi()u<^h the trees on the south bank in enormoni? nunil)eis, and all jj;oin«^ eastward in tlie same directinii as ourselves ; then suddenly tliey Ix'Li^an to cross in thousands, and have been crossin*^ ever since. aht continued for quite twenty minutes. One of the Somalis died to-day ; he had only been ill about twenty-four hours. Sunday^ June hth. — Started very early — almost in tlie dark — in hopes of catchiiifj; up the Peace ; this >ve failed to do. One of the Soudanese died to-day, the sec(Mul death amon^i^st them since leavinj^ Baiifj^ala. When they once ^et sick they neither eat, drink, nor move ; in fact, like the Somalis, they simply make up their minds to die. I saw many very fine orchids in the junf>le to-day, but none of them in flower, and one beautiful fern growin<^ high \\\^ in the palm-trees. The leaves of it grow outwards for only a few inches, and then han^' straight down in perfect masses round the trunk of the ])alm. This would be a most effective plant iu a European hothouse. June C^tli. — Quite an exciting day. ISfade an early start, and after going through the most difficult ])assaucs between islands and sandbanks, we at last (;ame within siglit of U]K)t(), which stands at the foot of the first hiiili ground we have seen for some time. No signs of either DIARY. 57 the Prace or tlio Jleun/ Beedl There were three s(»])a- rato villages some distance ajiart, so we steamed ii)) to tlir one hii^hest np river, to see if tlie steamers could be there, ^»ot lindin. Upoto. Hi- ^ It, it % \i^l 58 STOJiV OF THE REAR COLUMN. 1887. June n. Upoto. i: not found the steamer here, he would luivc treated us all as deserters. Now this is hardly fair, as from what the Captain and Enjijineer of the Peace both say it is evident that he missed us owin^ to a fault of his own. He mistook a channel of the main river for a small river which he thought ran into the Congo at this place. He therefore steamed away outside an island when we wcMit up the passage along the mainland. He used some ven hard words whilst talking to us, and it seems as if he did not trust us when one yard away from him. As for myself, I know I have done nothing, but then I have been so seedy until yesterday; but the other officers have worked away as hard as any white man can, stand- ing for hours in the most horrible swamps till long after dark to get enough wood. What sickens one of tlie whole thing is the utter distrust which Mr. Stanley plainly tells us he has of us all ; and how long this state of things is going to last I cannot tell, but it is frightfully DiAitr. 59 dislioartening. The necklaces in fashion here are mostly of human or crocodile teeth, whicli are bored mid liung in larsje numbers on a piece of string ; the earriiif^s worn by men, instead of the women, are of cowrie-shells. They had a lot of ivory to sell at absurdly low prices, but all very small and discoloured. Their huts, which are miserable, are built in small streets at ri«rlit angles to the river-bank. Had an interesting chat witli Mr. Charters of the Peace^ who confirmed in every i)[U'ticular the story of the Houssas being eaten at Basoko. June 1th. — The war-like natives of yesterday are Dcaceful traders now, coming up with a shield and ^ear jn one hand, and two eggs or a fowl in the other, and |)c«r(ring one to buy. Mr. Stanley told them that had thev attacked us yesterday, there would not have been a vestige of their village left this morning. We started iit 12 o'clock, and steamed away into the usual maze of islands, quickly losing sight of the high mainland, which had been so refreshing to our eyes. We started this time with every intention of its not being our fault if we lose the Peace again. Both steamers stopped at ;") o'clock, and the usual cutting of wood in swamps was gone tl 'ough. This time I was fit and went out too. Native of Upoto. 1S87. June 6. Upoto. i I '■ I, ( I i til I: il ' '<: ( CO ) v,%. , ■■■' ■■'^^^■^■^ ■W' \^.f^r^*^. Native Village. 'n CHAPTER IV. June 8th to July 31st. Letter to Mrs. Jameson. — Pass burning villages. — Arrival at Aruwimi River. — Conical-fehaped huts. — Occupation of Yambuya. — Arrival of Henrif Meed. — Stanley's letter of instructions. — Re-packin'' bales for Emin. — Barttelot made " blood-brother " with native chief. — Rations for six months. — " Beggars must not be choosers." — Stanley's departure. — Building boma. — Extraordinary flight of butterflies. — Palaver with natives. — "Collecting" captives.— Natives capture Omari. — Woman escapes. — Uselessnesa of chiefs. — Gum-copal. FROM A LETTER TO MRS. JAMESON. 1887. June Sth. — I will now give you a general idea of the Juno 8. pjj^jj q£ campaign, xit present we have left behind us EXTRACT FROM LhTTER. 61 a fovce of 124 men at Uolobo iiiidor Ward and Bonny, At Ti(M)])oldville is an enormous quantity of stores and amiiniuition which we couhl not hrini?. "NVlien tlie strainers leave us at the entrenched camp, they return down the Con<;o, and tlie Sfrtiilr// will hrin«j; up all the stores and ammunition with the 1*24 men from Holoix). In the meanwhile Stanley will have ji:one on witli o-")0 men (leavinj^ 100 men with us in cam])), carryin*:; li}j:ht loads, to make a forced march throuu:h the unknown country to liake Albert Nyanza, where lie expects Kmin Bey to come down from AVadelai to meet him. On the return of the StnnJcy to the Aruwimi camp with the stores and the 124 men, our force will consist of a httle over 200 men. Tip])u-Til) will then send us about 400 men from Stanley Falls. AMien they arrive we shall take all the stores and ammunition and march aft(T Stanley; he will have marked the trees on his route. And now I think I have told you as much as any of us, except Stanley, know about our plans for the future. June l^th. — I must give you the menu of our mid- day meal, which we have just finished : — Soup. Wt'cvil-eaten beans, tlavourod with yoat. Entree. Stowed goat and rice. Roast. Roast leg of goat and rico. Ve(jetahle. Rice and fried manioc-flour. Sweet. Fried bananas. So yon see we are not so badly off! We have no spirits of any kind, but drink boiled Congo water. I enclose a little sketch I made of a native chief who came to make a present of a goat to Mr. Stanley at a 1887. Jiint> 8. River. 62 STORY Oh Tin: REAR COLUMy. JuiSI'o. P^^^'f' called Nzungi, on the march from Matadi to Congo Stanley Pool. River. I have never been on any trip where there is so little enjoyment of any kind ; it is all so serious, and a sort of gloom hangs over it all. If one does say anything which raises a laugh, it is the most ghastly imitation of one, and dies a sudden death, not to be raised again, per- haps, that day. DIARY (continued). June Sth. — Just after starting this morning we dis- turbed an old hippo at his breakfast in the long grass, and he walked quietly into the water, giving us a splen- did view of his person. In the afternoon we passed one very large native village, which is the first I have seen really constructed on a definite plan. It was all built in small squares, the river forming the fourth side, with a regular landing-place for canoes to each little square, and roughly-made ladders up the bank. The people were very eager to trade, and followed us a long way in their canoes. The women, with few exceptions, still DIMiY. 63 continno to wear notliinij; wbatovor. I must say that at oiu' villajjjo, li<)wcv(M', most of tlio women had tied round tlicir waists lar^o ^rocn l)anana-leaves, cut into fine lonj. slireds, and just pulled oft" the trees, as if they knew wc were cominjif. 'I he brif^iit fj^reen a«;ainst their dusky skins was very effective. I noticed one very large Idack nn»i»key to-day, with an immensely long tail. .June ^th. — Cup-day at Ascot. What crowds of recollections suddenly spring up when one thinks of tjiis, and how I wonder if, amongst the number of one's friends there, any of them will give a thought to those who are absent like myself. We passed great numbers of native villages, the inhabitants of whicli are a really savage-looking people, of whom it is very easy to believe all the stories of cannibalism ; they all, how- ever, wanted us to land and trade, holding up goats and fowls, and following us for long distances in tlicir canoes. The whole of the deck-cabin nearly came down to-day, owing to the great pressure of the top deck, which is crowded with men. We had to move half the men off it on to the lower one, where they are now packed like sardines. If the top deck comes down, it will burst all the steam-pipes, scald a lot of us, and throw most of the men into the river. June \^th. — Some of the villages we passed on the banks of the mainland are very large. The natives were collected in groups at every landing place opposite to the huts, some of them with their bodies entirely covered with bright red clay, and their black faces yet more blackened and shining, presented a ver)- curious appearance. It is very funny to see them in some places, peering out of holes in the dense undergrowth of the forest, just like frightened animals. At one village their principal occupation seemed to be in making canoes ; they use a tool very like our adze. I noticed a great number of elephant tracks all through the forest. It was my turn to sit up and see the wood split for the steamer. Did not get to bed until 2.30 p.m. 1SS7. Juno S. Congo River. ;i i| m ( J ■:.*■. lit i ! f % II V. ■ i 64 sronr or T//h' it/: ah columx lh87. I I. RiM.T. li June \}f/i. — Passed somo very lar«^(» villajjjcs, one ol them oxt('ii(liii}jj over two miles; tliev seem to be verj' thickly ])o|>nlate(l. 'I'iiey are all built on the same ])lii!i as that one described ai)()ve rj)oto, in small squares, the river-bank f()rmin<; the fourth side of the sciuiiic, with a bare courtyard in the centre, where they make their pottery, &C. The native shields are nearly all made of hide of some kind, 1 think fifoat, but I saw ono which looked very like bush buckskin ; thev have u raised basin-shaped dome in the centre in some cases, made of metal. lietween the small sfpiares of tlip villa«j;es are either patches of plantains and bananas or juuf^le, whih; at the rear there is i»enerally a strip of Indian corn or manioc, and then comes the forest. Tiieie are evidently ^reat manufactures of pottery, for I saw threat heai)s of pottery in all staijjes. In all the scpiarcs is a f^reat drum formed of a hollow l()