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EXPL0RATI0S3 AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 WAR DEPARTMENT. 
 
 REPORT 
 
 0» 
 
 LIEUT. HENRY L. ABBOT, 
 
 0ORP8 OP TOPOGRAPIIICAr. KNOINCT.ns 
 
 EXPLORATIONS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE, 
 
 THE SACRAMENTO VALLEY TO THE COLUMRIA RIVER, 
 
 LIEUT. R. S. VVILLI.VMSON, 
 
 roRps np TOPoniiAPliifAl, K\oi\i:rRs. 
 
 AWIMTEn IIT 
 
 LIEUT. HENRY L. ABBOT, 
 
 CORPS OF TOPOOBAniirAt. KN'OINEERi". 
 
 1 X 
 
 1 8 .5 .5 . 
 
LETTEll TO THE ('IKCRETAllY OF VVAll. 
 
 Wasiiinoton, 1). C, .!/((//('), 18,")7. 
 
 Sill : In obetlioiicu to instructions from the War Deinirtnient, I litivu tlio honor to mibiiiit llio 
 acconipiiiiyint? report of the exploration and survey in California ami Oruj^oii, cotidiicicil ii^ 
 Lieutenant K. S. Williamson, United States Topographical Engineers, in \H'>o. The |M«iMri 
 tion of the report has devolved upon mo, in consequence of the severe and protracted illness i,\ 
 Lieutenant Williamson ; and it is due to myself to state that 1 have performed the duty with 
 extreme reluctance, partly because it was not originally designed for me hy the Department, 
 and partly because it properly belongs to the officer by whose forethought and professional 
 ability the expedition has been brought to a successful termination. 
 
 Wishing to convey Lieutenant Williamson's ideas, as far as they are known to me, 1 have 
 been guided b^ his recorded field notes, and by his opinions expressed to me in conversation, in 
 preparing the portion of the report which relates to regions traversed by him. During a jiart 
 of tlie field work I was entrusted with a separate party, with instructions to prepare a written 
 report of the results of my examinations. For any opinion given in this portion of the report 
 he, of course, is not responsible. 
 
 Atthecompletionof the survey for a railroad route from the Sacramento valley to the Culnnihi.i 
 river, the season was so far advanced and the animals were in so jaded condition, that Lieutetmnl 
 Williamson considered it impracticable to make any examination of the Sierra Nevada until tlie 
 ensuing spring. Betbre that time, orders were received from the War Department, directing 
 him to return at once to Washington to i)repare the maps, profiles, and reports of the explora- 
 tion already made. The second survey contemplated in his original instructions was conseijuuMit ly 
 omitted. 
 
 At Lieutenant Williamson's re<juest, I have prepared a full statement of the method used in 
 deducing altitudes from the barometric observations. For unjniblisheil and very vahnible inUn in- 
 ation on this subject, I am indebted to Cai)tain A. W. Whipple, United States Toiiographicii! 
 Engineers. 
 
 I should do injustice to Lieutenant Williamson, if I did not express his high appreciation of 
 the energy and ability with which the oflicers of the escort, and the civiliar assistants, labored 
 to advance the objects of the exploration. 
 
 Of those whoaccomjianiedme when detached from the main command, I feel at liberty to speak 
 in less general terms. Lieutenant Crook, who was tlie only ofiicer with me, oflicially and 
 personally contributed, in a high degree, to the success and to the harmony of the expedition. 
 Mr. Fillebrown and Mr, Young, although suffering from severe attacks of intermittent fever, and 
 deprived of the services of a physician, willingly continued with the party, and discliarged their 
 accustomed duties with energy and accuracy. Tiie masterly sketches of views upon the route, and 
 the characteristic style of the topography uijon the accompanying maps, testify to the proressimial 
 skill of Mr. Young. Mr. Anderson, who was my only scientific assistant in some of tlie most 
 difficult and perplexing portions of the survey, aided me in every way in his power. To Jiini, 
 and to Mr. Fillebrown, the government is chiefly indebted for the numerous barometric observa- 
 
LETTER TO THK SKCRETAUY OF WAU. 
 
 tioiiH taken upon the rontes explored. Dr. Newberry was only attached to my command for n 
 tew days, as he proceeded by water from Fort DallcH to San Francisco, where he remained until 
 the conn)letion of the tield work. While waiting in that city he zealously occupied himself in 
 niakinj; a large and valuable zoological collection. His reports speak for themselves. The great 
 energy which Mr. Coleman displayed in discharging the laborious duties of chief of train, is worthy 
 of the highest i)rai8e. Had it not been for his continued and untiring exertions, many of our 
 animals must have been lost in crossing the Cascade mountains. To the men of the topographical 
 party generally, much commendation is due. Although deprived of the protection of an escort, 
 and of the services of a physician, to both of which they were entitled by the terms of their agree- 
 ment, they, with hardly an exception, faithfully performed their duties until the end of the survey. 
 
 I urn, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 • HENRY L. ABBOT, 
 
 2d Lieut. U. S. Topographical Engineers. 
 
 Hon. John B. Floyd, 
 
 Secretary if War. 
 
GEiNERAL TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 -I 
 
 ■i 
 
 M 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 INSrrnUCTIONS FHOM the WAII DKrAIiTMENT. 
 SyHte.n iidopluil in preimri.iK ll.f U,|,„rt. Notes on maps accompanying the Report. Notes ou proliles arconiiNwying tl.c 
 
 Itcport. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 GENERAL REPORT. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 OEOLOCilCAL REI'ORT: 
 No. 1.— Report upon the Geology of the Route, liy J. S. NiwiiKHnY, M.D. 
 No. 2.— Description of tlie Tertiary Fossils collected on tliu survey. l!y T. A. Coxbad. 
 No. 3.-ltcport upon an Analytical E.xaniination of waters anil minerals fronj tlie hot sprin^-s in Des chutes vaMey. 
 
 Conducted under tlie direction of I'rof. E. N. HonsroiiD. 
 No. 4. — Catalogue of the Minerals and Fossils collected on the survey. 
 
 PART III. 
 
 BOTANICAL REPORT : 
 No. 1.— Report upon the Botany of the Route. By Jon.v S. Newbebby, M.D. 
 No, 2.— General Catalogue of tho Plants collected on the Expedition. 
 
 PART IV. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL REPORT : 
 No. 1.— Itcport uiwn Fishes collected on the Survey. By Dr. C. Oibabd. 
 No. 2.— Report upon tho Zoology of the Route. By J. S. Newdehry, M.D. * 
 
 APPENDICES. 
 
 '■«"«< 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 ASTRONO.VIICAL OBSERVATIONS WITH SE.XTANT. 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 COMPARISON OP CHRONOMETERS. 
 
 APPENDIX C. 
 
 LIST OF CAMPS, WITH DISTANCES, ALTITUDES, LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES WHExN ASTRONOMl- 
 
 CALLY DETERMINED, ETC. 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 BAROMETRICAL AND THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS, WITH DATA FOR CONSTRUCT! VG PRO 
 
 PILES OF THE TRAVELLED ROUTES. 
 
 APPENDIX E. 
 OBSERVATIONS FOR DETERMINING THE HORARY OSCILLATION OF THE BAROMETRIC COLUMN. 
 
 APPENDIX F. 
 DATA FOR CONSTRUCTING PROFILES OP THE ROUTES PROPOSED FOR A RAILROAD. 
 
^r 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 
 
f 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FROM Tlli: WAIl DKI'AIITMKNT. 
 
 Wau l)i;i'AitTMi:\T, WnsliiiKilon, Mmj \,W,\Tt. 
 Sin: Tlio fdllowiii^j tliiticH um' iiNHif^ncd tnyoii, imkIim' tlic ii|>|iri>iiiiiitii>iiN (iiromtimiini; i'Xi>li>- 
 riitioiiH and HurvcyH to iiHrertiiin the most |prii('tii;iil)U' and I'l'onoiniciil ronto for ii niilroml I'rom 
 the MiHsiHNipiii river I., tlio I'licific ocean, and lor military aud f^uojjraiihieal Hiirveys we«t oCtho 
 MiHHiNNippi. 
 
 1. To make hiuiIi cxidoratioiiH and HiirvoyH as will dr' r' jiiio the practicability, or othcrwino, 
 of conuectiiit? the Sacramento valley, in (Jalilornia, with t'lv Colnmhia river, Oregon Territory, 
 by a railroad, either by the Wilhunetto valley, or (if this route Hhould prove to bo impracti- 
 cable) by the valley of Uch ChuteH river, near the fo' < slopes of the Cas'-iule chain. Alon ' Den 
 CliuteH river the character of the country Ih such a. t,» render it improbable that a practicable 
 route can bo found. 
 
 2. lo make the uecessary examinations and HurveyH to determine if a route i)racticablo for a 
 railroad cxiHts croHNing tlie Sierra Nevada, at or near iIk' Hource of Carnon river. This may 
 furnish the most direct railroad route from San FranciHco to the (Jreat Salt Lake. The duty 
 firHt assigned you having been completed, you will ascertain from tho commamling ofllcer, 
 Lieut. Col. Steptoe, and others of the troops that may have crossed the Great Basin from 
 Great Salt Lake and the Sierra Nevada, by the route near the sources of Carson river, all the 
 details necessary to a knowledge of the character '/f the route traversed by them ; and should 
 the intbrmation which you may have gathered lead to the opinion that the route is practicable 
 for a railroad, or that such route may be found in that region, you will ])roceed to make the 
 examinations and surveys necessary to ascertain if such he the case. It will not, probably, bo 
 necessary to extend this examination beyond tiie eastern foot of the Sierra Nevada, 
 
 If you should not rcqune the services of all your l>arty, for this latter duty, you will direct 
 Buch of your assistants as will not be wanted for the field, to proceed to Washington, with Lieut. 
 Abbot, and under his direction jirepare the maps and reports ; or you nuiy direct Lieut. Abbot, 
 aided by the geologist an<l civil engineer, or such assistants as may be necessary, to make tiic 
 examination, proceeding yourself to Washington with the other assistants. 
 
 The geological information is considered especially valuable in determining the character of 
 the country, the nature of the difliculties to bo encountered, and the quality and extent of the 
 building materials to bo found. 
 
 Your attention will be directed to the botany and natural history of the country, and to such 
 other objects as tend to illustrate its present and future conditions. 
 
 To execute these orders, you are authorized to emj)loy the following assistants, viz : a geolo- 
 gist, a civil engineer, a computer, a draughtsman, and a physician, who will, at the same time, 
 perform the duties of naturalist or geologist, if an assistant surgeon cannot be assigned to duty 
 with the escort, at rates not exceeding those proposed by you in your estimate. 
 
 They will receive, besides their stipulated compensation, the actual cost of transportation to 
 and from the field, if the journeys or voyages have been actually performed, and they will have 
 the privilege, while in the field, of purchasing from the subsistence department such provisions 
 as may bo necessary for their subsistence. 
 
 ax 
 
--S«»'--='-^'-±=L=i3??5??'B!5 
 
 E^ 
 
 10 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE v'AK DEPARTMENT. 
 
 You are also authorized to employ such Imnds, packers, &c., as may be necessary ; to purcliaso 
 such of tlic instruments, named in your estimate, as cannot he obtained from the Topographical 
 Bureau, and such smaller instruments, maps, hooks, camp and garrison equipage, animals, 
 quartermaster's stores, provisions, &c., as may be necessary to the successful accomplishment 
 of the objects of the expedition. 
 
 The commanding officer of the Pacific Department will be directed to furnish you with an 
 escort of (100) one Inmdred men, with not less than three regimental ofiicers and an assistant 
 surgeon, if one can be spared from other duty, one of the former to act as commissary and 
 quartermaster to the party ; and to Instruct the commanding officer of the escort to afford you 
 such aid and assistance as will most tend to facilitate your operations. A large escort will be 
 required to protect the exploring party in Oregon, but in the subsequent part of your surveys 
 it may bo diminished. 
 
 Lieutenant Henry L. Abbot, Topographical Engineers, will be ordered to report to you for 
 duty. 
 
 The colonel of the Corps of Topographical Engineers will direct that such of the instruments 
 named in your requisition, as are in depot at the Topographical Bureau, or at Bcnicia, Cali- 
 fornia, and not required for other service, be supplied to you. 
 
 The quartermaster's department will furnish you with horses, mules, equipments, and such 
 other public property as may be needed for the use of the expedition, if they can be spared ; 
 which will be returned to that department upon the completion of the field duties, payment 
 being made for such animals as may have been lost, or as may be found unfit for use, and other 
 public property lost or seriously damaged. 
 
 The commissary department will furnish you with such provisions and stores, if they can be 
 spared, as you may need for the use of the expedition, to be paid for out of the appropriations 
 for the survey, at cost prices at the place of delivery. 
 
 The ordnance department will furnish arms, accoutrements, and a mountain artillery forge, 
 payment to be made for such arms, <S;c., as are lost or seriously injured. 
 
 You are authorized to purchase, for the purpose of trafficking with the Indians and compen- 
 sating them for services, such articles of Indian goods as are most desirable for such purposes, 
 provided the expenditures for these articles do not exceed ($300) three hundred dollars. 
 
 The sum of (§-12,000) forty-two thousand dollars is set apart from the appropriations for the 
 expenses of the survey entrusted to you. 
 
 With your assistants you will proceed without unnecessary delay to San Francisco, and there 
 organize your party, unless upon your arrival you should ascertain that it would be preferable 
 to organize it n Oregon ; in which case you will proceed to Vancouver, and organize your 
 party at the most suitable point to commence the survey from the Willamette valley. 
 
 The duties assigned to you being completed, you will discharge your party, dispose of your 
 outfit to tho best advantage, and proceed with your principal assistants to this place, and make 
 out your report. 
 
 Should the views of the department bo modified, you will receive further instructions. 
 
 You will make tho usual monthly reports of the work done ; and, besides, advise the depart- 
 ment from time to time of the progress made in, and the results of the explorations. 
 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 JEFFERSON DAVIS. 
 
 Secretary of War. 
 Lieut. R. S. Williamson, Corpx Topographical Engineers, WasJnngton. 
 
INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE WAR DEPARTMENT. 
 
 11 
 
 Office Pacific Railroad SrRVEYS, 
 
 Watihinrjlon, May 1, 1855. 
 Sir : By direction of t^ie Secretary of War, you will report to Lieut. II. S. Williamson, Topo- 
 graphical Engineers, for duty on the explorations and surveys in California and Oregon, with 
 which he is charged. 
 
 It is understood that you are second in rank of the party, and that, if sickness or any acci- 
 dent should disable Lieut. Williamson, so as to oblige him to relinquish the command, you 
 will succeed to the charge and command of the party. 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 A. A. HUMPHREYS, 
 Captain Corps Top. Engineers, 
 
 In charge of office for Pacific llailroad Surveys. 
 Lieut. Henry L. Abbot, 
 
 Corps Topographical Engineers. 
 
 SYSTEM ADOPTED IN PREPARING THE REPORT. 
 
 In preparing the report of the explorations and surveys, made in accordance with the above 
 orders, I have adopted the following system : Part i contains the general report, divided into 
 seven chapters ; of which the first contains a general description of the different regions traversed 
 during the survey. This synopsis has been prepared partly to enable those wishing merely to 
 obtain a general idea of the country, to dispense with reading a mass of details, and partly to 
 render the railroad report more intelligible. The second chapter is devoted entirely to a 
 discussion of the facilities offered for the construction of a railroad near the lines of survey. 
 The third, fourth, and fifth chapters contain a narrative ana itinerary of the expedition. An 
 attempt has been made to give, in this portion of the report, a detailed description of the nature 
 of the country examined ; of the supply of wood, water, and grass near the trails ; of the character 
 of the Indian tribes ; and of various other matters, interesting '■^ Miose who wish to thoroughly 
 understand the character of the flegions explored. The sixth cuapter contains a statement of 
 the method used in computing altitudes fiom observations taken with the barometer. The 
 seventh chapter contains an account of a former exploration of Lieut. Williamson, near a portion 
 of our line of survey. 
 
 Parts II, III, and IV, contain geological, botanical, and zoological reports upon the regions 
 explored. 
 
 The various appendices exhibit, in a tabular form, tlie astronomical and barometric observa- 
 tions, with the results deduced from them by computation. 
 
 MAPS ACCOMPANYING THE RKPOUT. 
 
 Two maps, constructed upon the polyconic projection, have been made to accompany this 
 report. Tiiv, first illustrates that portion of the survey which lay in California, and the second 
 that in Oregon. The scale of each is one inch to twelve miles, or 1:760320. 
 
 The data, upon which these maps have been constructed, will be briefly stated. The distances 
 
■^ 
 
 12 
 
 MAPS ACCOMPANYING THE EEPOKT. 
 
 travelled were measured by an odometer, until the wheels were necessarily abandoned among 
 the Cascade mountains ; and tlien carefully estimated from the time and supposed rate of travel. 
 The courses were determined by prismatic compasses. The latitudes of a large majority of the 
 camps were fixed with considerable accuracy by astronomical observations. Several camps 
 before camp 17 were connected wilh San Francisco by chronometric differences, and the longi- 
 tude thus approximately determined. An unfortunate accident, in Canoe Creek valley, however, 
 rendered the chronometers worthless for this purpose during the remainder of the survey, and 
 compelled us to depend upon our courses and distances, checked by the latitudes of the camps, 
 and by a system of triangulation among the prominent mountain peaks near the trail. The 
 assumed longitudes of a few important points upon the route seem to require particular ex- 
 planation. 
 
 As Fort Reading was the point from which we started to leave the settlements, great care 
 has been taken to determine its longitude as correctly as possible. Col. J. C. Fremont, on his 
 map of California and Oregon, jilaces the point of Cow Creek, upon which the fort is now 
 situated, in Long. 122° fi' 50" west from Greenwich. On the Land Office map of 1855, it is 
 placed in Long. 122° 11' 9". On the map of Lieut. E. G. Beckwith, 3d artillery, illustrating 
 his exploration for a Pacific railroad route near the 4l8t parallel of north latitude, it is placed 
 in Long. 122° 5' 8". The four chronometers used on our survey apparently preserved their 
 rates unchanged during our march up the Sacramento valley, as they all agreed very well with 
 each other. The longitude of the fort, determined by their mean corrected difl'erence from local 
 time, was 122° 10' 50". As this differs only three-tenths of a mile from that given by the Laud 
 Office map, it has been adopted as correct. It places the fort 3.5 miles west of Col. Fremont's 
 location, and 5 miles west of that of Lieut. Beckwith. 
 
 The following method has been adopted to fix the longitude near the northern terminus of the . 
 survey. The longitude of Salem has been determined with considerable care, under the direc- 
 tion of the surveyor general of the Territory, both by astronomical observations and by 
 measuring a line to the coast, and thus comparing the result with the work of the United States 
 Coast Survey. It is 122° 53' 43" west from Greenwich, as I was informed, when at Salem, by 
 Mr. Hervey Gordon, deputy surveyor. He also told me that Mount Hood and Mount Jefferson 
 bad been carefully located by bearings taken from well determined points with the solar compass. 
 I therefore made a preliminary plot of the northern portion of our survey, based upon the Land 
 Office positions of these peaks as fi.xed points. As over fifty bearings had been taken to each 
 mountain, many of which were from points where the latitude was astronomically determined, 
 1 was enabled to slightly correct the relative position of the two peaks. The map was next 
 replotted with respect to these new positions. The result was highly satisfactory, as the compass 
 work fitted admirably, and the longitudes of two points in Des Chutes valley, determined by 
 Col. Fremont in 1843, by observing theoccultatiousof Jupiter's satellites, were almost precisely 
 the same as those of the corresponding points on the plot. It is thought that this coincidence 
 renders it very improbable that any im])ortant error in longitude has been made. 
 
 The latitude of Fort Dalles was astronomically determined, and numerous bearings upon 
 Mount Hood and the neighboring peaks enabled me to fix its longitude very closely. It was 120° 
 58' 30". This location is about t'nree miles west of that found by Col. Fremont, by observing 
 au jmersior of Jupiter's second satellite, on November 5, 1843. He afterwards observed the 
 emersion of Jupiter's third satellite, on November 20, 1843, at the same spot, and publislied 
 the data obtained, without, however, giving the deduced longitude. I find, by computation, 
 

 MAPS ACCOMPANYINQ THE KEPORT. 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 that this is about 121° 22' 19", which differs more than twenty miles from that deduced from 
 the first observation. I have, therefore, adhered to the longitude given by my field work, 
 which is intermediate between the two, but much nearer that to which Col. Fremont has given 
 the preference. 
 
 The longitude of Fort Vancouver has been laid down as given on the latest Land Office map of 
 Oregon Territory, because detailed surveys have been made between the fort and Salem the 
 position of which, as already explained, has been determined with approximate accuracy. This 
 location of Fort Vancouver is about seven miles east of that of Capt. Wilkes, whose longitude 
 has been adopted by Col. Fremont on his map of Oregon and California, and by Captain 
 McClellan. 
 
 Considerable difficulty has been found in locating the Cascades of the Columbia with respect 
 to longitude. Gov. Stevens adopted the position given by Capt. Wilkes, which is 21 miles 
 further towards the west than that of Col. Fremont, who observed an occultation of Jupiter's 
 first satellite, on November 11, 1843, at a point estimated at 15 miles below the Cascades. 
 There is now a line of steamboats plying from Vancouver to the Cascades, and thence to Fort 
 Dalles. Capt. W. B. Wells, the, chief proprietor of the line, and all other persons whom I 
 questioned about the matter, declared that the Cascades were about equally distant from Van- 
 couver and the Dalles, by the course of the river. Col. Frenont has so indicated it upon h'.s 
 map ; but Capt. Wilkes makes the distance from the Cascades to the Dalles nearly double tl at 
 from the Cascades to Vancouver. Considering the great discrepancies between these two 
 authorities, and believing that the many hundred trips of the steamboats must have enabled 
 the owner to estimate the comparative distances with tolerable accuracy, I have placed, on the 
 accompanying map, the Cascades midway between VancL-uver and Fort Dalles by the course of 
 the river. This location is 10 miles west of that of Col. Fremont and 11 miles east of that 
 of Capt. Wilkes. 
 
 I have indicated on the map, positions for Mount Adams and Mount St. Helen's — the former 
 given by eight and the latter by six good bearings from well determined points in the Des 
 Chutes and Willanette valleys, and among the Cascade mountains. Each of these positions 
 differs about 12 miles from that given by Gov. Stevens. 
 
 It lias been considered desirablo to make the maps as complete as possible, by indicating the 
 topography of the country remote from our trail, whenever reliable information as to its char- 
 acter could be obtained. The Pacific coast has, therefore, been laid down as given on the latest 
 United States Coast Survey maps. The most recent Land Office maps of Oregon and California 
 have been adopted as authority for the settled portion of the country, except in the vicinity of 
 our trails, where the topography is, of course, given from our own field notes, checked by 
 astronomical observations. 
 
 The map of Lieut. E. G. Beckwith, 3d artillery, illustrating his explorations for a railroad 
 route near the 41st parallel of north latitude, has been followed for the region bordering Pit 
 river, below the mouth of Canoe creek. 
 
 The topography south of Suisun Bay has been taken from the map of a survey in California, 
 made, in connection with examinations for railroad routes to the Pacific ocean, by Lieut. It. S. 
 Williamson, Topographical Engineers, in 1853. 
 
 Summer lake, the northern and western shores of Upper Klamath lake, the cliicf tributary 
 of Klamath marsh, and the Columbia river, east of the Dalles, have been laid down as given 
 by Colonel J. C. Frdmont on his map of Oregon and Upper California. 
 

 14 
 
 MAPS ACCOMPANYING THE REPORT. 
 
 I 
 
 From Myrtle creek, in Umpqua valley, to Jacksonville, in Rogue River valley, our field 
 work has been checked by a sketch of the military road, located in 1853 by Brevet Major B. 
 Alvord, 4th infantry. This sketch, which I think was never published, was kindly furnished 
 by Major Alvord. 
 
 The trail of Brevet Major H. W. Wessels, 2d infantry, on his expedition of 1852, from 
 Sonoma to Humboldt Bay, and thence up Klamath river to the head of Scott's river, has been 
 laid down from a rough copy of a sketch by George Gibbs, Esq., who accompanied the command 
 as topographer. 
 
 The topography near Rogue river, for about twenty-five miles above the mouth, has been 
 take . from a sketch made by Lieut. J. G. Cliandler, 3d artillery, to show the routes followed 
 by the command of Brevet Lieut. Col. R. C. Buchanan, 4th infantry, during his campaign 
 against the Indians in 1856. I am indebted to Colonel Buchanan for this sketch, which is now 
 published for the first time. 
 
 Lieut. Williamson formerly spent several years in California, attached to the staff of the 
 commanding general. During this time he made many reconnaissances, the results of which 
 were never published. Several of the trails have been laid down on our map from his original 
 field notes. The latitudes of many points were fixed by astronomical observations, and the 
 accuracy of the topography may be relied upon. They form a valuable addition to the map. 
 His route from Yreka to Lower Klamath lake was surveyed in 1852, and that from Yreka, 
 east of Shasta Butte, to ihe Sacramento valley, in 1851. The trail from Port Orford to Coquille 
 and Rogue rivers, oiid thence to the settled portion of Rogue River valley, was examined in 
 1851 and 1852. A small portion of this trail was explored by Lieut. George Stoneman, 1st 
 dragoons In 1849, Lieut. Williamson accompanied Captain W. H. Warner, Topographical 
 Engineers, on the disastrous expedition on which he was killed by the Indians, near Goose 
 lake. Lieut. Williamson prepared a map of the regions traversed, and the upper portion of Pit 
 river, with the vicinity, has been reduced from the original sketch upon our map. 
 
 PBOFILES ACCOMPANYING THE REPORT. 
 
 Two sheets of profiles have been constructed to illustrate this report. They contain profiles of 
 tlie most important portions of the routes travelled over by the surveying parties, and also of 
 the most favorable railroad lines found in the vicinity of the trails. The horizontal scale of 
 cr.ch profile is the same as that of the maps, being twelve miles to the inch, or 1:700320 ; the 
 vertical scale is 1:15206.4. They are, therefore, distorted fifty times. 
 
 The altitudes of the different stations were all determined by barometric observations. The 
 method by which they have been computed is fully explained in the sixth chapter of this 
 report, and the original data are given in Appendix D. 
 
 It only remains to notice discrepancies between the results of this survey and those of former 
 surveys with which it connects. Gov. Stevens gives 57.6 feet for the altitude of Columbia 
 barracks above the level of the sea. That the fort should not be liigher than this above the 
 Columbia appeared incredible to mo when there ; and as it is situated nearly 100 miles above 
 the mouth of the river, there can be, I think, no doubt that this altitude is too low. The 
 height of Lieut. Williamson's camp, situated upon the river bluff opposite the barracks, 
 and sixty feet above the water surface, was shown, by numerous observations, to be 105 feet. 
 I have been unable to find, in any part of Gov. Stevens' report, the height of Fort Dalles. 
 The altitude of 350 feet, however, is given in the Army Meteorological Register as that 
 
PROFILES ACCOMPANYING THE REPORT. 
 
 16 
 
 determined upon his Burvey. The altitude of the fort, resulting from onr ohservations, is 47G 
 feet. No correction for ahnormal error appears to have been applied to Gov. Stevens' ohserva- 
 tions ; and this omission would very naturally explain larger discrepancies. 
 
 Our altitude of Fort Beading diifers 157 feet from that of Lieut. Beckwith ; and as he had 
 only six observations there, while we had a very large number, I think there can be no doubt 
 that ours is the more reliable result. There are a few other discrepancies in altitudes deduced 
 from his observations and ours, but none that might not be easily occasioned by abnormal 
 oscillation, for which he was unable to obtain any correction in this vicinity. Tho general 
 agreement between tho results of the two surveys, is highly satisfactory. 
 
rw 
 
^ 
 
w^. 
 
 ^^ 
 
 !i» 
 
EX.>I,0IIAT10NS ANI. SUKVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE PROM THE MISSISSIIMT RIVEU TO THE l- 
 
 WAR DEPARTMENT. 
 
 ACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 ItOUTES IN t^AU«>HNIA AND OUEOON KXI'LOKEl) 1!Y UKUT. R. S. WILLIAMSON, COUPS OK TOPOCilUPHICAL 
 ENGINEKIIS. AND LIEUT. II. L. AI.BOT, COUPS OK TOPOGUAPHICAL EM.INEEUS, IN islf 
 
 GENEKAL KEPORT. 
 
 
 WASHINGTON, I), c. 
 1857. 
 
,.*'■ 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 (ieneral descrij^tion of the regions examined, 
 
 Ocncnil Topoumpliy. — Sacrnmcnto Viilli'y. — I'it Ulvor nml lt« tribiitnrii'n. — I'liitomi lictwc-on Til lliver ami Uie IV>« ('hulcs 
 Viilli'y.— Dc'S ChuUn ViiUcy. -('iificaik' Uanii;i' in l)ri'M;c)ii Tciiitorj'. — Willaiiiftlo V'alU'y.- C'nla|Kii>yii MoniitaiiiN. — 
 UmiH|t(a Valli'y.— Uinpiliia Moiiiitaiim. — llo^io ItiviT Valley.— Siskiymi HouiitaJiiH.- -Klamath liivor uud Us trilm- 
 tarics.— Shasta lititto ami llw; Mouiitjun Cliahis of Nortlu^rn California. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Railroad Report . 
 
 Ounural Siimnmry.— Proposed llnilroad IVmtofrom Ik'tiirla to Fort lU-'ndiii);.— rropo«iil llallroad Itoulofrom Kort Uoailiiii,' ti> 
 Vancouvur, cast of tliu (lascade IlanKU. — Koute fiom Camp 3fi, near tlii! hiMid of the Dim Clmtes Vallt^y, to Kort Dalles. - - 
 Route from the Des Chutes to the Wlllametto Valley liy the New Pass near Mount lloud.— Proposed Railroad Route 
 from Vancouver to Fort Readinjr, west of the Cascade Ran^e. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Narrative and Itinerary. — Route of the main command. 
 
 Preparations. — Organization and Outfit of Party.— Suisun Valley. — I'utos Creek. — Cache Creek. —Sacramento River. — 
 Feather River. — .Marysville. — Mirage. — Digger Indians. —Their lluts. — Their mode of tiamhling . — Orinxly Hears. --Two 
 Routes examined from Antelope Creek to Fort Heading.— Fort Reading. — Officers there. — llie Escort. — Uaroineter left 
 with Dr. H.imniond. — (juidc employed. — Start. — DLsagreeahle Oimp.- MeCumlx;r'8 Flat. — Noble's l'a»i. — View from 
 tSummit. — Lost Crock. — Cold. — Indian signs. — Canoe Creek.- -I'uniiec-stonc. — I'oilregal of Trap ll<«'k. — Aicident t.) 
 Chronometers. — Ditlicult travelling. — Precipice. — Prairie with springs. — Pit River Indians. — Their liahits. — Their liows 
 and arrows. — Indian Trail. — Large river gushing from the rooks, — Ejsploratiou liy Lieut, Williamsfm.— Pit River. — Lit^ut. 
 Sheridan. — Kxploration of Lower Caflon of I'it Uiver. — Lieut. Hood's return. — .Stoneman's Ridge. — Route between the 
 Caflons. — Fire in Camp. — Upper Cafion of Pit River. — Cart broken. —Indians. — Their mode of kindling a lire. — Their 
 love of tobacco. — Their Ornaments. — lieut. Williamson's notes ou the Canon. — Grass Valley. — Pits dug by Indians. — 
 K.xplnration in advance l)y Lieut. Williamson. — Spring Branch — l!ake<l Antelope's Uetul. — .Sage Plain. — Wright Ijikc— 
 Uhett I^ike. — Emigrant Road. — Lost River. — No Fuel.— Party from Yreka. — Division of the party. — Natural l!ri<Ige.. — 
 Rattlesnake under a blanket. — Upper Klamatli Lake. — Indian signs. -Snakca. — Fire in Gump. — Arrival of Ijeutcnant 
 Williamson. — Rout« near eastern sliore of lake. — Bald Eagles. — Accident. — Klamath River. — Cafiou. — Fog. — Klamath 
 Marsh. — Indians.— Their Rancherias. — Their Canoes. — Their Uravcs. — Grave of a Chief. — Piles of stones.— Intercourse 
 witli the Indians. — Their Horses —Partial Vocabulary of their Ijiinguage.— Crossing of Klamatli River. — Divide between 
 Klamath Marsh uud Des Chutes River. — Water holes.— Pu nice — Des Chutes River.. — Two trails. — Trout. — Old wagon 
 trail. — DiHiculty in taking lustronomical observations. — Sickness. — Division of Party. — Ice inCanip. — Ingenious metlioil 
 of repairing Chroiionieter. — tiold seekers from Unipnua Valley. -Orders from Lieut. Williamson.- Hianch of Des Cliutes 
 River. — Rafting of stream. — Eiitiance of tiicat Cailon.- -Rapid. — Junction with Lieut. William.son's party. - lUin. — Snow 
 peaks in siglit. — Wliy-chus Creek. — Camp near " Forks of the Indian Trail." — Berries.— Division of Hie party.— Sketch 
 of subsccjueut uperalions. 
 
19 ' CONTKXTf. 
 
 C:iIAl'TKU IV. 
 
 Narrative and lilnerary aintinucd. — lloutea of ddachid parlicn in cfiarfje of Lieut, W'dliaumni. 
 
 i:ijjiiriili4iii utiir hiirfr Klmmth hike I'liity— Wliltc Stone. - Lowir Kluiiiiitli Ijikc. Kliiinatli llivor. — LcttcM.— Ciltlon. — 
 I'lUiHiiu'iMil' llivir lliroiiuli IjiUi'. II|)|mt Kliitimtli Luke. — llilt -.Imn (Inn witli iiiiilti \r,ix\y . - Itnl l-'rjilnrntiim (immii llie 
 Cuiuatle Miiiiiildina. — Wxtly. Klni" iiii'iwlow.— Snow pnikK. — liiikcH. — View from iiiouiitiiiii. -Inilliin trail. ('iikcikIo.—- 
 Extinct cmtiT. Snniiult of dlvldo — 'Ilircc iiuii Hcnt Uvk. — IniliaiiK. -Korks of trail. — \Vliy-iliii« Crook. — .lunctUm 
 wltli iimin \ii\rty. —Seeonil I'jiiUinilum iimoiii; the Curoidr iii<imil<iiii!>. -Vnrty. — KxtciiiUMl vl(^w. — Snow. — Ijikox. --'rrall dlHnp- 
 pcam. Canon. — Conipolliil to turn liaik. Depot Camp aKain. - Seeonil «tiirl — Dlllieiill route. — Kxtenileil vluw. Trail 
 (llmp|«'arH. lloiite ImpiifHnble. CoMipelled to tnrn liaek.— Itain -IndlatiK Ilaroineter liroken. — Keturn to llepot 
 Camp. — New route.- lllk killed. — A»troMoinleal olwenatlonn. - //mite from Oiiiiji S., uii W'hii-chm Crrrk, to Vimcoiiirr. — 
 Fh-Kt division of party. —Start. — Waijon roiul, — Main divide. ^Ijike».- Middle I'ork of Wllliimettu liiver.— lloute In 
 ravine.— I'MrstKottlement. — Sporo'B I'Vrry. — liroken down liorse.s left lieldiiil. — KenivH. Soulli I'ork of Santlam liiver. — 
 North I'ork. — Oregon City. — Fort Vanoonver. — Subsequent inovctnentR of Lioiit. WllllaniHon. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Narrative and Itinerary continued — Routes of detached parties in charge rf Lieut. Ahhot. 
 
 First H/jiliinitidn in lies Chutes VaUnj. — Party.— Accident. — Que-y-ce llrook. — Dry Cailon.— Wild vlow.-Ciinon of Mpto-lyiiH 
 llivor. — Livte arrival in camp. — Strango character of the Cafion.— Indian firavn. — Aneunt of Caflon side. — runeHco-iiue 
 Crook and Cailon. — Chit-tiko Creek and Cailon. — Wam-chuck Caflon. — Gold liunfern. — IndlanH. — A H\irprlse. — Hot 
 uprlngs. — Wild lateral hi'IBc'. — Caves. — lianin - -Mountain.— Noc-nee KprinRS. — Mutton Monntains. — Tyseh I'rairlo. — 
 Tysch Creek and Cailon. — First settlement.— Evelyn's rancho. — Potatoes. — Indians. — Dead body. — Ureiul of kous root.— 
 Wagon road. — Tisch Mountains. — Fifteen-mile Crook. — Eight-mile Creek. — Five-mile Creek.— Fort Dalles. — Offlcors 
 there. — Chinook William and Col. Frt'niont's supposed trail. — Dalles of Colundiia. — Salmon. — Trip to Caseailes of 
 Columbia. — Captain Wells. — Mr. Cou. — Indian burial place. — Wind Mountain. --Submerged forest. — Cascades. —Uaro. 
 metrlcobservatlons to determine descent of river. — Burial place. — IVtrll'actions — Salmon (ishing. — Wild evening walk. — 
 JIeas\nement of width of Cplumbla at Caseadeu. — Keturn to Fort Di.lles. — Start to return to Depot Camp. — DllVorent 
 
 route. — Uain at night. — Rumor of good pass to Willamette. — Larger hot spring near Wam-chuck Uivcr Indians and 
 
 salmon in Mpto-ly-as Caflon. — Paper on tree. — Junction with main party. — Lunar rainbow and halo. — Seeonil Eijtlora' 
 lion in JJea Chutes VnHeij, and erossfiiy qf (he Casemle Mountaim. — Plan.- -Parly. —Preparations. — DiviHlon of party. — Start. — 
 Trail disappears. — DillieuUics. — Lovely view. — Water by digging. — Bright moonlight. — Uain. — Surprise. Imnienso 
 Canon. — View. — Diflicult descent. — Podregal. — Travelling on foot.^Crater. — Pioturn to river. — K.\annuation of second 
 Canon. — Old Indian trail — I'reclpieo. — Castlo Kock. — Barometer broken. — Travelling down a Canon.— De« Cliutcs 
 Cafion. — Plateau.— Strange hill. Canon gate. — Trap columns. — Mouth of Chit-tike Creek. — Indians. — lle-exanuiuition 
 of Wam-chuck River Cafion. — Junction with Mr. Colemim's party. — liiirometor repaired. — Dr. Newberry sick. — Tvscli 
 Creek again. — Indian war. — Disngrceable predicament — Kok-kop. — Iieports a .out pass. — Ilainy night. — Indian ctmn- 
 cil.^New guide. — lleturn to Nee-nee springs. -Start for Willamette Valley. — Wil-la-wit springs. — Indian signs. — Wan- 
 nas-seo Creek. — Fallen timber. — Yaugh-pas-scs Meadow. — "Kill the cart." — Great dilliculty from fallen timlwr. — 
 New order of march. — Branch of Tysch Creek. — Wat-tum-pa Lake. — Oo-lal-le berries. — Delay. — Lu-ah-hum-lu-ah-lium 
 prairie.— Ty-ty -pa lake.— Game.- -Mount Hood.— Rain. — Triangulation. — Horse abandimed. — ^Trail disappears. — Indian 
 blazing. — Precipice. — High mountain. — Extended view.— Magnetic variation. — Very bad trail. — View of the Willamette 
 Valley. — Cailon. — Disappointment. — Spring of water discovered. — Steep descent into another Canon. — Lake and 
 Indian "Stone House." — DilTicult ascent. — Unpleasant information. — Water and grass reached. — Ilain. — Anxiety.— 
 Karly start. — Execrable trail. — View of the Willamette Valley. — Pedrognl.— ' "lien timber. — Camp wlthoiit water or 
 grass. — Mule lost.— Settlement. — News about Indian war. — Mr. Currin. — Mule recovered by Sam. — Oregon City. — 
 Lieut. Williamson's jiarty. — News. — Loss of the escort ; with correspondence upon the subject. — Extract from Oregon 
 Statesman. — Governor Curry. — lioiile from Viinciiurrr to Furl h'cailiiig, leest of the Gisemle Moimtainn. — Start. — Salem. — Mr. 
 Gordon. — Corvallis. — Eugene City. — Pass through Calapooya Mountains. — Wincliester. — Indian war and volunteers. — 
 Major Martin. -Cafionville. — Despatch from battle tield.-Umpiiua Cafion. — Traces of Indian devastation. — Retreat. — 
 Escort from Captain Sndtli. — IniliaL devastations. — Heroism of a woman. — Fort \m\k. — Table Rock. — Valley of 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
CONTRNTH. 
 
 28 
 
 Ht..wmf. Cr.Tk. - Hot -prl.itf -SUklyou Moimt,,l.i«._KI,uimHi lUv.T.-Virkii. - l,ltil„ S,„lt\, ,\|nui,l,.ln« |.-.,rt 
 
 JoiU'H.- Ui'ut. Crodk .li:laliK..l. Kkippolntinciit. - Snow. H.'.,tl« V,ill..y. -S.„ttH H iituhiK Tilnity V,.ll..y._. 
 
 Trinity Moiii.t..lnK.-i;lmr (Vnk. I'lrml. (ii.l,!,. Slmnla. Kort „lln« „,',.ln, an.l l.rmumtl..,. .,f fi..|.l w..rk."- 
 
 l.i.Mit.Miuit Wllll;iin«n„. OiilriH liiiiM Wiir l)c|Mii(rii(ut.— Siil.Hr,|n.iil MiMV.iurnt-, &c. 
 
 ciiAiTKii vr. 
 
 Compntaliim of AltUudenJroni liavomdriml Ohnervalionii. 
 
 IVIImhwy lU.nm>k„ lnHtnnmu,tH,-ln*trnu..ntal KrrorH.-Int,r|,„lali.ma„.h,|,|.n,xir„ut.. Lnt of,„,.,na.v I,. ..l.Horv.rH _ 
 Corr.>di„„« |,r,.,.,ir,it.,ry to «m,|mtutlon : 1, for t,.n.|...r,Unr,. of lmtcmv ; 2, for InKtrun...,!.,! ,.rror- ; 'l. for l.orury 
 
 cclllallon; 1, for uLnornml oKclllatlon. M-tho,! of .on.puhu will, r..M,.,vk« : I, on tl.r r.a,li„Kof tl.o l«rom,.U.'r 
 
 an.l th,.rm<mu.k-r nt thu lower «t.itlon ; 2, on (h. r..a,lln„ of tl... tlarn.oinct.T at tlu> npp,r .tatlon.-K.x.unplc.,-r..Ht 
 "f tl,o <.on.paratlvo aoonracy of tho ,llir,.r,„t uuUhmIk of ■■ompiKalion, will, tal.l,.. .l,owi„« th„ rosulU ol,taln«,l._ 
 Height of Kort ItrMicllnK ; fxplanatlon of tal.icH of l,ai-on,t(ri.- olwcrviitlons in Appendix D, &c. 
 
 CJIAPTEK VII. 
 
 Bouiefrom Shasta VaUcu, East cf Shmla ISutte, to Fort Jimdbuj ; Explored h,j Lieut. II. S. 
 
 WilUatitfion, U. S. Top, L'ikj., in IH")!. 
 
 Kxpluna.ion.-P,„.,y._v,,u,v, In ISSl.-Starl.-Vi.w of two p,,.s..H. W,i,l,t l.,ko.-W«t..r l.ole-l'o>c>plno klll...l _ 
 ■lurue,l l..uk.-rasH.-Kxl,mlr,l view.-l'nn.i.x.-Kton.. -Dim.ul. travellinK.-No water or KrasH.-Natnral In-Mffe - 
 lV.l,vgal.--Wat..r In flK«nro._lln.ncl, of Kali Itlver.-Kall Uiver.-Kor.I.- -Iu,lia„H.-l>it Ulver.-Tule ruft.- 
 Expedient. -I'lUis tl,runKh western el.ain of Siorra Nevida.-lUttlo (.'reek.-Cow (.'reek.-:-SoUlement». 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 <»» 
 
 MAI'S. 
 
 1. From Siin I'rancisro Buy to t^R' Nortli^ rii lioimilnry of Californiii. 
 
 2. From the NortluTii Doundiiry of Ciiliforiiia to the Cohimbia lUvcr. 
 
 rilOFILKS. 
 
 SiiEKT 1. noutc from Rciikia to Fort Reading. — Proposed Railroad Route from Fort Readiiif? to Vancouver, Kimt of the 
 I'asiadc Jiountaina. — Travelled Ro\itc from Fort Readinj^ to Vamouver, Fjist of the Caneado llnimtains. 
 2. Proposed Railroad Route from Vancouver to Fort Itcailing, West of the Caseade Muimtains.— Travelliil 
 Route from A'aiieouver to Fort Reading, West of the Cascade Mountains.— Route from the l[ea;l of tlio 
 Des Chutes Valley to Vancouver, by the New I'asa near Mount Hood. 
 
 LITHOCiRArnS.o 
 
 I'nge. 
 Plate I. Lnspcns Rutte, from the vicinity of Camp 18 (il 
 
 II Mouth of FaR River, near Camp 20 fia 
 
 in. Upper Klamath Lake, from Camp 2S (!7 
 
 IV. Mount Pitt, Klamath River, and Upper Klamath Ijike ; from Camp 30 ,. fiS 
 
 V. Caseiiile Range, with Mount .Itirer.soii, Moimt Hood, and Mount Adams; from Pass West of Camp -10 7S) 
 
 VI. Three Sisters, and Ciuion of MeKenzic's Fork of ■Willamette River; from Camp I' 80 
 
 VII. IMamond Peak, and Ravine of Middle Fork of Willamette River; from Camp 48, W 82 
 
 VIII. Canon of Psuc-see-quo Creek, near Camp 41, A 85 
 
 IX. Mount Hood, from Tysch Prairie 8G 
 
 X. Mount JelTersou and Black liutto, from Camp K 90 
 
 XI. Castle Rock, in Cafion of Mpto-ly-as River, near Camp 63, A 93 
 
 XII. Shasta r.utte and Shasta Valley, from a Point near Camp 79, A 110 
 
 XIII. Curves illustraiing the tables of horary oscillation deduced from observations taken (m the survey ll.J 
 
 WOOD CUTS.o 
 
 FifiiRB 1. Rummer and AVinter huts of Klamath Indians 69 
 
 FiniBK 2. Council House and Graves of Klamath Iu<lians 70 
 
 " Frimi nrif;in<il i^ki'li-ln'.-* nimli' hy Mr. J<ilin Vuiiiif:, iirliKl of llit- Kxpcilitinu. 
 
 / 
 
 # 
 
CHAPTEK I. 
 
 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE REGIONS EXAMINED. 
 
 I 
 GkMERAL TOPOfiBAPHY. — SACRAMENTO VALLEY. — PiT RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. — PLATEAU BETWEEN PIT RIVER AND THE DES CIIUTEB 
 VALLEY. — De» CIIUTK3 VALLEY. — CaSCAUE BANCR )N ORECON TERRITORY. —WILLAMETTE VALLEY. — CaLAI'OOYA MOUNTAINS. — 
 L'MI'QUA valley. — L'MItJUA M0U.NTAIN8. — RoGUE RIVER VALLEY. — SiSKIYOU MOLNTAI.V.S.— KlAM,VTH BIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. — 
 
 Shasta iilttk, and tug mountain chains of northern California. 
 
 r>3 
 fi7 
 (!8 
 79 
 80 
 82 
 85 
 86 
 !)0 
 9."{ 
 110 
 ll.> 
 
 5$ 
 
 GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY. 
 
 There is a great similarity ia the general topographical features of the whole Pacific slope. 
 The Sierra Nevada in California, and the Cascade Range in Oregon and Washington Terri- 
 tories, form a continuous wall of mountains nearly parallel to the coast, and from one to two 
 hundred miles distant from it. Where examined by our party, the main crest of this range is 
 rarely elevated less than fi,000 feet above the level of the sea ; and many of its peaks tower into 
 the region of eternal snow, the .lower limit of which is about 8,000 feet above the same level. 
 This long chain of mountains forms a great natural boundary. To the eastward lies a plateau 
 of which the average altitude is about 4,500 feet above the sea. The winds from the ocean 
 deposit most of their moisture upon the western slope of the mountains, and reach the plateau 
 dry. This, together with the volcanic character of the country, renders nearly the whole region 
 an arid waste, unfit to support a civilized population. 
 
 West of the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Ranges, the character of th j country is widely different. 
 The Coast Range, another and parallel chain of mountains, but of a lesser altitude and of a 
 more broken nature, bordeis the soa-shore. Between the two He several large fertile valleys, 
 elevated but slightly above the sea, and containing nearly all the arable land of the far west ; 
 of these valleys, the San Joat]uin au.i Tulare, the Sacramento, the Willamette, the Umpqua, 
 the Rogue river, aiid the Cow'itz are the chief; but the Gulf of California itself may be con- 
 sidered one of the great series, probably produced by a common cause, and differing from the 
 rest only in being submerged. 
 
 In northern California and southern Oregon, the two great parallel chains of mountains 
 approach each other ; and several ranges, the chief of "which are called the Siskiyou, the Ump- 
 qua, and the Calapooya mountains, connect them, thus scjjarating the Sacramento and Willa- 
 mette valleys by a line of transverse ridges. These ridges present the only serious obstacle to 
 the construction of a railroad from the Sacramento valley to the Columbia river. Two routes 
 between these termini were examined by our party. The first crossed the western chain of the 
 Sierra Nevada at the head of the Sacramento valley, and, after passing over the comparatively 
 level plateau of the interior until the transverse ridges had been turned, re-crossed the moun- 
 tains near the source of the Willamette river, and followed the valley of that stream to the 
 Columbia. The second lay over the transverse ridges. ^ general description of the region 
 traversed by each of the routes will occupy the remainder of the chapter. 
 4X 
 
^w^ 
 
 26 
 
 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE REGIONS EXAMINED. 
 
 SACRAMENTO VALLEY. 
 
 No complete description of this valley will lie attempted, as its general character is well 
 known, and as Lieutenant Williamson, in his Railroad lleport, has i'uUy discussed its topo- 
 graphical features. A few remarks, however, relating to its climate and productions, may not 
 he out of place. 
 
 Slieltered liy the Coast Range of mountains from the moist and cool sea hreezes, which render 
 the summer climate of the sea-shore of northern California so delightful, much of the Sacra- 
 mento valley is parched with excessive heat in the dry season. From the Army Meteorological 
 Register, it appears that, at Benicia, where the influence of the sea hreeze is felt, the mean 
 summer temperature, for the years 1852, '53, '54, was 66°. 3 Fah., while at Fort Reading, 
 which is about two degrees of latitude further north, it was 79°. 6 Fah., for the same years. 
 Even at San Diego, situated seven degrees of latitude south of Fort Reading, the mean summer 
 temperature was only V0°.9 Fah., for the above mentioned years. 
 
 The eifect of this excessively high summer temperature is greatly increased by the want of 
 rain. Very little falls during the months of June, July, August, September, and October. 
 The mean fall, during these five months, for the years 1852, '53, '54, was 1.1 inches at Benicia, 
 and 1.4 inches at Fort Reading. This tends to show that less than three-tenths of an inch of 
 rain per month, for the five consecutive hottest months of the year, is to be expected in this 
 valley. The result can be easily anticipated. Vegetation, except on the banks of the streams, 
 is in a great measure destroyed, and the foliage of the trees furnishes almost the only green 
 upon which the eye of the traveller can rest, when wearied with the glare of the sun, reflected 
 back from the whitened plains. 
 
 During the rainy months, which are December, Januarj', February, March, and April, the 
 average fall is between 3 and 4 inches per month. The whole region is then clothed with 
 luxuriant vegetation ; b;it the excess of rain often causes the streams to overflow their banks, 
 and spread far and wide over the low lands. Much of this water remains stagnant, until 
 evaporated by the heat of the sun, which is undoubtedly one of the causes that render inter- 
 mittent fever so great a scourge of the valley. 
 
 Notwithstanding this unfavorable climate, the richness and fertility of the soil well repay 
 the farmer for his labor ; and fine crops of barley, wheat, oats, potatoes, onicns, »S;c., can be 
 easily raised. A luxuriant growth of wild oats covers a large portion of the valley, and gives 
 it an aj)pearance of high cultivation. Grapes, which are a natural product, arc also one of 
 the very important staples of the region. The forest trees, which, in the valley, are confined 
 to tlie banks of the streams, are chiefly oaks, sycamores, and cotton-woods. The foot hills 
 of the Sierra Nevada are densely timbered with various species of oaks, pines, and firs. 
 
 •i 
 
 
 1 
 
 .'A 
 
 PIT RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 
 
 In 1849, Lieutenant Williamson accompanied Captain ^V. H. Warner, United States Topo- 
 graphical Engineers, on his ill-fated expedition to the sources of Pit river. As this was the 
 only survey of this region which has ever been made, and as its results were never fully 
 published, Lieutenant W^illiamson proposed to give a synopsis of them in this report. I have, 
 therefore, compiled from his original field notes the following very brief description of the 
 upper portion of Pit river. i^i 
 
 A short distance above camp 23, where, in 1855, the party left Pit river, the stream passes 
 
 I 
 
GENERAL DESCRIPTION Or THE REGIONS EXAMINED. 
 
 27 
 
 'i 
 
 ■1 
 
 I 
 •'■-I 
 
 -1 
 
 through a broad cnnon. The trail, which is a little rocky, follows its course, crossing it about 
 a dozen times. In about 20 miles, the cafion widens out into a valley, varying from 3 to 12 
 miles in width, which extends to the vicinity of Goose lake. In some places, travelling is 
 rendered laborious by cracks in the soil, which is very light and dusty, but the road is generally 
 good. Tlie region is not fertile, and grass is mostly confined to tlie banks of the river. 
 
 The party discovered a boiling spring about C miles above the upper end of the wide canon, 
 and at some little distance from the river, on its western bank. Tiie basin was about twelve feet 
 wide, and in the middle a jet three feet in diameter boiled up six inches above the general level. 
 No gas escaped, but a slight smell of sulphur was perceptible. A column of vapor, thirty feet in 
 height, ascended from the spring. Its waters were impregnated with salts, but no de2)0sit was 
 obsorved. 
 
 Near Goose lake. Pit river rises from springs in the hills, and docs not issue from the lake, 
 as has sometimes been supposed. Much obsidian is found near its sources. 
 
 While exploring the mountains in this vicinity. Captain Warner and others of the party 
 were massacred by the Indians, and the survey terminated abruptly in consequence. 
 
 The portion of Pit river lying between Camp 23 and the mouth of Canoe creek, was examined 
 on tlie recent survey. The whole region is volcanic in its character, and descends by successive 
 plateaus towards the western chain of the Sierra Nevada. Each of the two great canons is 
 situated near the edge of one of these plateaus, and the descent of the stream is, consequently, 
 very much greater in them than elsewhere in its course. From the summit of Stoneman's ridge, 
 this peculiar terraced formation of the country can be very distinctly perceived. The descent 
 of the tributaries, both from the north and the south, is very rapid. 
 
 Much of the region south of Pit river, lying at the eastern base of the western chain of tlio 
 Sierra Nevada, consists of a rocky pedregal of scoriaceous trap, and Lieut. Williamson, wlio, 
 in 1851, explored tlie country immediately south-east of Shasta Butte, found the same formation 
 there. It is no uncommon thing in this region, for large streams to sink among fissures in the 
 rocks, and for others to burst from the faces of precipitous ledges. Infusorial marls are com- 
 mon near Pit river. 
 
 Although there are a few fertile spots near the banks of the streams, the valley is generally 
 barren, parched with drought during the summer, and unfit to support a civilized population. 
 
 Below the mouth of Canoe creek. Pit river forces its way through the western chain of the 
 Sierra Nevada. Lieut. E. G. Beckwith, 3d artillery, surveyed this portion of its course in 
 18,)4, and he reports that the stream flows with a winding course among heavily timbered 
 mountains, which rise abruptly to heights varying from 1,500 to 2,000 feet above the water 
 surface. 
 
 PLATEAU HETWEEN PIT UIVER AND THE DICS CHUTES VALLEY. 
 
 After leaving Pit river and before reaching the Des Chutes valley, our course lay over a 
 plateau bordering the eastern base of the Cascade Range. There are occasional low mountain- 
 ous ridges upon it, but the general surface, for about 150 miles, rr dins an elevation abo^'o the 
 sea varying but little from 4,500 feet. 
 
 Most of the region is sterile, although occasional fertile spots are found. Pumice-stone, trap 
 rock, and other volcanic products, strew the ground ; and pine forests or sage plains cover the 
 whole face of the country. The banks of the streams, however, are generally bordered with 
 grass of good quality, and we experienced no difiiculty in obtaining a suflicieat supply for our 
 large train of animals. 
 
 k» ff '- 
 

 28 
 
 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE REGIONS EXAMINED. 
 
 The system of drainago on this plateau is peculiar. Tliere are numerous lakes, some of 
 which have no known outlets, although they receive affluents. Wright and Rhett lakes wcro 
 visited hy our party. The former is surrounded by low hills, and, as far as our observation 
 went, receives no tributary, although its waters are fresh. There may be, and doubtless are, 
 springs among the hillsj from which it draws its supply. In the rainy season it discharges its 
 surplus waters by Lost river into Rhett lake, which has no known outlet. The level of this 
 lake is 470 feet below that of Wright lake, although the distance between them, in a right lino, 
 is only about 6.5 miles. 
 
 The chain of Klamath waters is an interesting feature of this region. The highest point 
 upon it visited by our party was near the northern end of Klamath marsh, but Colonel Fremont, 
 in his e.xpedition of 1843-'44, crossed the principal tributary of this marsh. He describes it as 
 a stream thirty feet wide, and from two to four feet deep. It undoubtedly rises, as indicated 
 upon his map, among the moimtains east of Upper Klamath lake, and after flowing towards 
 the north for a considerable distance, bends towards the south, and spreads out into Klamath 
 marsh. When it emerges again, it is a large, deep stream, with a sluggish current. After 
 passing through a cafion, four miles in length, the highest points of the sides of which are 
 about 1,000 feet above the water surface, it again spreads out into a fine sheet of water, called 
 Upper Klamath lake. This lake receives several smaller tributaries. The river leaves it near 
 its southern point, and soon winds through a marsh, which forms the northern portion of 
 Lower Klamath lake. Lieut. Williamson, with a detached party, examined this portion of its 
 course, and his opinion was, that in seasons of high water the marsh is overflowed and the 
 river can properly be said to flow through the lake. In the summer, however^ its bed is very 
 distinct, and it does not join the sheet of water forming the lake. After crossing the marsh it 
 soon enters the cafion, by which it traverses the Cascade Range. Its subsequent course will be 
 described, in the latter part of this chapter, under the head of "Klamath river and its tribu- 
 taries." The portion of the plateau through which this chain of waters extends, is occasionally 
 fertile and valuable for agricultural purposes, but most of it is utterly worthless. 
 
 m 
 ■1 
 
 '■■0 
 
 ^1 
 
 DES CHUTES VALLEY. 
 
 East of Diamond Peak, the general altitude of the great plateau bordering the Cascade Range 
 begins to diminish. There are many isolated hills and low ridges upon it, but in its general 
 character it now becomes an inclined jdain, sloping towards the Columbia river. It is drained 
 by the Des Chutes river, which, flowing in a northerly direction near the foot hills, and receiving 
 many tributaries from the moimtains, at length discharges itself into the Columbia. 
 
 The Des Chutes river, near its source, flows througli a narrow prairie, bordered by a forest of 
 pine, fir and cedar, which occasionally closes in upon its banks. The soil is of a light pumice- 
 stone character. This formation is changed to basalt in about latitude 44°. North of this point, 
 as far as its course is known, the river flows through a deep canon, broken by numerous rapids 
 which have given it the name of Des Chutes. Its average descent in this cafion is about twenty- 
 five feet per mile. Wo did not find its tributaries sunk in caiions until we reached about 
 latitude 44° 35', where we emerged from the foot-hills, and came upon the great basaltic 
 plain, through which the river had been flowing for many miles. Thir plain is formed by suc- 
 cessive layers of trap, of which I once counted as many as seven, interstratified with tufas and 
 conglomerates. Although this stone is exceedingly hard under the hammer, it disintegrates 
 rapidly when exposed to the weather. Not only have all the streams flowing through the plain 
 
GENERAL DESCIIIPTION OF THE REGIONS EXAMINED. 
 
 29 
 
 worn down their beds to deptlis varying from five hundred to a thousand feet, but even the 
 torrents of the rainy season have deeply furrowed its surface, and almost destroyed all traces of 
 a level character in that portion lying between tlie mountains and the river. The plain is 
 thinly dotted with clumps of bunch grass, sage bushes, and a very few stunted pines and 
 cedars, but *hey are all more abundantly found in the caiions of the creeks. 
 
 This steppe is bounded on the north by a spur from the Cascade Range, called, by the white 
 trappers, the Mutton mountains. After crossing the valley, in about latitude 46°, the ridge 
 soon bends towards the south, and gradually disappears. It is in some places thickly wooded 
 with pines and firs, and in others destitute of trees. The prevailing rock is a hard compact 
 slate. North of this spur the sage bushes disappear, and a few post oaks begin to be seen. 
 
 At the northern base of the Mutton mountains there is a smaller plain, called Tysch prairie, 
 elevated about 2,200 feet above the sea, and resembling the other in all important character- 
 istics, except that it is much less furrowed by dry ravines. This prairie is bounded on the north 
 by a low range of trap mountains, entirely bare of trees, and separated from it by Tysch creek, a 
 fine little stream sunk in a deep cailon. In this part of Des Chutes valley there are many 
 curious round mounds, from twenty to forty feet in diameter, and from two to six feet in height. 
 They are still more numerous in the vicinity of Fort Dalles, and there has been much specula- 
 tion concerning their origin. Some persons 8Ui)po8e that they were formed by colonies of 
 ground squirrels in excavating their, subterranean dwellings. If so, the race is now extinct, 
 and it is difficult to conceive how the immense number necessary to make these mounds, 
 could have found subsistence in so barren a region. An officer at Fort Dalles had one of the 
 mounds excavated, but he found no trace of a burrow, nor anything else which could throw 
 light upon its origin. They occur in vast numbers, upon the sides of steep hills as well as on 
 plains, and the effect which they produce upon the landscape is not unlike that of the spots 
 upon the skin of a deer. 
 
 Between Tysch creek and Fort Dalles, the character of the country undergoes a great change. 
 Trap rock mostly gives place to marls. The road continually winds up and down steep, rolling 
 hills, that are generally covered with fine buncli grass and destitute of trees. The valleys of 
 the streams are all more or less settled, and they appear to be fertile and tolerably well supplied 
 with timber, which is mostly oak. This section of the valley seems to be well suited to a 
 pastoral population, but it can never compare, in fertility and importance, with that west of 
 the Cascade Range. There are now two ferries across the Des Chutes river, one at its mouth 
 and tho other near Tysch creek. 
 
 Fort Dalles, the principal settlement in Oregon Territory east of the Cascade Range, is a 
 military post and small frontier town on the southern bank of the Columbia, near the head of 
 navigation. It is connected by a line of steamboats with Vancouver and the Willamette valley. 
 It contains a few houses and stores, and will doubtless rapidly increase in size and importance, 
 should the newly-discovered gold mines in Washington Territory prove profitable. A descrip- 
 tion of the Dalles of the Columbia will be found in Chapter V, under the date of September 10. 
 
 It will be seen that the Des Chutes valley is mostly a barren region, furrowed by immense 
 caiions, and offering very few inducements to settlers. Its few fertile spots, excepting those in 
 the immediate vicinity of Fort Dalles, are separated from the rest of tho world by almost 
 impassable barriers, and Nature seems to have guaranteed it forever to the wandering savage 
 and the lonely seeker after wild and sublime natural scenery. 
 
w 
 
 30 
 
 GENERAX. DESCKIPTION OF THE KEGIONS EXAJIINED. 
 
 J.'''*' 
 
 t.'K 
 
 CASCADE MOUNTAINS, IN OREGON TEKRITOUY. 
 
 The Cascade Range, in Oregon, consists of a belt, from thirty to ninety miles in width, of 
 pine and fir covered ridges, separated from each other by a network of precipitous ravines. A 
 line of isolated volcanic peaks, extending in a direction nearly north and south through the 
 Territory, rises from this labyrinth, and marks the extreme western border of the elevated 
 plateau already described. The chief summits are Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Mount Pitt, 
 and Diamond Teak ; which, with the four buttes composing the group called the Three Sisters, 
 tower high above the rest into the region of eternal snow, the lower limit of wliich is here 
 about 8,000 feet above the sea. The other peaks, although quite prominent when seen from 
 the plateau, are hidden by intervening ridges from the Willamette valley. 
 
 Westward from this line of volcanic peaks, an abrupt slope, mostly composed of ridges of very 
 compact slate, separated by immense caiions, descends to fertile valleys, elevated but slighlly 
 above the sea level, and extending to the foot hills of the Coast Kangc. 
 
 Near the water-shed are numerous lakes, some of which discharge their waters towards the 
 east, and others towards the west, by canons so enormous that words fail to convey an adequate 
 idea of their size. One, the side of which was so precipitous that we could only make the 
 descent with the greatest difficulty, was found by actual measurement to be 1,945 feet deep. 
 
 A few small prairies covered with excellent bunch grass, lie hidden among the moimtains. 
 They are often surrounded by bushes bearing a kind of whortleberry, called "Oo-lal-le" by the 
 Indians, who come in large parties in August and September to gather and dry them for winter 
 use. Hence, it frequently happens that the explorer, while following a large trail which he 
 hopes may lead across the mountains, suddenly finds it terminate in a whortleberry patch. 
 
 An examination of these mountains is very difficult. The ravines, filled with thick under- 
 brush interlaced with fallen timber, are, many of them, utterly impassable; the ridges are very 
 precipitous and rocky ; generally the thick forest of pine, fir, spruce, and yew, quite conceals 
 the surrounding country ; and the great scarcity of grass for the animals is a source of constant 
 anxiety. According to tlie best information which I could gather from Indians and settlers, the 
 whole range is covered with snow during the winter. 
 
 There are six known passes through the Cascade Range, in Oregon Territory. It must be 
 borne in mind that they are not simple gateways, but long winding courses through a labyrinth 
 of ridges and ravines. Tiiey will be described in their order of succession, beginning at the 
 most southern. 
 
 1. Pass south of Mount Pitt. — This pass, through which an emigrant wagon road has already 
 been constructed, was not examined by our party. Lieutenant Williamson followed the road 
 to the point where it enters the mountains, near Camp B, on Klamath river. It strikes Stewart 
 crct'^, in Rogue River valley, not far from Camp 78 A. The air-line distance between these 
 C(i. )s is only 32 miles, and the road is said to be very good, for a mountain route. 
 
 1 Pass south of Diamond Peak. — A wagon road has been constructed through this pass, 
 alsti, 'y which Lieutenant Williamson crossed the range. The approach from the eastward is by 
 a branch of Des Chutes river, that rises near the foot of the main ridge. About 20 miles after 
 leaving this stream, the road strikes the middle fork of the Willamette river, the course of 
 which it follows to the settlements. Where it passes over the main ridge, the road is very 
 mountainous in its character, and in the ravine of the middle fork, it crosses the stream many 
 times at deep and rocky fords. There is a scarcity of grass upon the route. 
 
OENKRAL DESCnil'TION 01'' THE JREQIONS EXAMINED. 
 
 81 
 
 ^idth, of 
 ines. A 
 ough tho 
 elevated 
 unt Pitt, 
 e Sisters, 
 jh is here 
 seen from 
 
 es of very 
 t sligiiL'v 
 
 wards the 
 
 adequate 
 make the 
 
 deep, 
 lountains. 
 le" by tho 
 for winter 
 
 which he 
 mtch. 
 ick uader- 
 es are very 
 te conceals 
 if constant 
 
 ittlers, the 
 
 t must bo 
 
 labyrinth 
 
 ling at the 
 
 las already 
 id the road 
 es Stewart 
 ween these 
 
 this pass, 
 tward is by 
 miles after 
 course of 
 jad is very 
 ream many 
 
 3. New pass south of ]\ fount Hood. — This pass was discovered by the detached party in my 
 charge. As I believe it to be more favorable for a wagon roiid than any of those previously 
 known, I shall describe with considerable minuteness, both the jiass proper, through the main 
 ridge, and the approaches to it from tho east and the west. Tliis division is adopted simply for 
 ease of description. By far the greatest difficulty in the passage of the range was encountered 
 in the western approach to the pass. 
 
 About 20 miles south of Mount Hood there are two prominent peaks, called Nu-ah-hmu by tho 
 Indians. At their northern base a remarkable depression is found in the main ridge. Near 
 the western part of it there are two small lakes called Ty-ty-pa and Wat-tuni-'pa. The latter 
 is the source of a branch of Tysch creek, which flows towards the east through tlie depression. 
 From the point where we first struck this stream, to the lake, tlie hills slope gradually towards 
 its bed, and there is no obstacle to the construction of an excellent wagon road, except the fallen 
 timber. Between the two lakes there was a low hill, which could probably be avoided by 
 following the course of a little tributary of Wat-tum-pa. West of Ty-ty-pa there was a steep 
 rise of about 400 feet, conducting to the summit of the main ridge. I think this could be turned 
 by keeping more to the north, but, at any rate, the ascent might be made very gradual by side 
 locati(>n. The desci'nt, of about 200 feet, into a great ravine, which borders the main ridge on 
 the west, might be made without much difficulty. Through thi.s entire pass, a distance of about 
 13 miles, a good road, almost free from hills, might be constructed by a little side cutting and 
 the removal of a large quantity of i'allen timber. 
 
 The eastern approach to this depression by my trail is excellent, and would require no labor 
 of any kind, except a little side cutting and removal of logs in a place about 3 miles in length, 
 between Wan-nas-see creek and Camp 58 A. There is not a single bad hill betweeti Nee-nee 
 springs and the entrance to the pass, a distance of about 24 miles. The distance from Nee-neo 
 springs to Evelyn's rancho, on Tysch creek, whicii is the most southern settlement in Des Chutes 
 valley, is about 19 miles ; and a good road between them might be made with very little labor. 
 It would cross the Mutton mountains by an open ravine, which one fork of the Indian trail now 
 follows. This route, however, from the eastern entrance of the pass to the settlements, is very 
 circuitous, and it is probable that a much shorter one might bo found, either by following the 
 branch of Tysch creek, flowing from Wat-tum-pa lake, or by taking an Indian trail which 
 joined ours on Wan-nas-see creek, and which our guide sait,' was very good. A similar descrip- 
 tion of it was also given to me by a half-breed, and its position, as indicated by him, is shown 
 on the accompanying map. Tlie almost inexhaustible supply of bunch grass near Nee-nee 
 springs may, however, render the more circuitous route preferable. 
 
 The western approach to this pass is far less favorable than the eastern. An abrupt slope, 
 furrowed by numerous canons utterly impassable on account of fallen timber, conducts to tlie 
 Willamette valley. To avoid the logs, we found it necessary to follow the dividing ridge 
 between Clackamas and Sandy rivers, a route which is hardly practicable even for a pack train. 
 From the source of Clackamas river, however, I could look down its ravine for more than 20 
 miles, and see the hills of the Willamette valley in the distance. The ravine appeared to be 
 wide, straight, and free from lateral spurs ; and I believe that a good road could be made in it 
 by cutting through the logs. Near its head, it is connected with tlie great ravine bordering the 
 main ridge, by a lateral canon, into which we descended, and by which it is thought the road 
 might reach the main ridge, in about 35 miles from Clackamas prairie, without encountering 
 
up 
 
 32 
 
 GENEKAL DESCRIPTION 01' TUE KEGIONS EXAMINED. 
 
 any Liul liill. The total diHtance from Clackamas prairie to Evelyn's rancho, by way of Nee-nee 
 springs, is about 90 miles. 
 
 It is probable that a route might be discovered from my jjass through the main ridge, to the 
 present wagon road down Sandy river. If so, the great labor and expense of cutting through 
 the logs in Clackamas ravine would be avoided. 
 
 A more minute description of the trail of my party across the mountains will be found in 
 Chapter V, from October 5 to October 14, inclusive ; but it must be remembered that fallen 
 timber compelled me, during the latter part of the way, to follow a course very different from 
 that proposed for the wagon road. 
 
 4. Foster' 8 Pass, south of Mount Hood. — This pass, by which an emigrant wagon road now 
 crosses the range, is named from the settler whose house stands nearest to it in the Willamette 
 valley. The following information concerning it has been derived from reliable sources. Start- 
 ing from the Willamette valley, a short distance north of Camp G4 A, the road follows up the 
 ravine of Sandy river nearly to the main ridge. After leaving the stream it crosses the Range, 
 between my new pass and Moimt Hood, by a route so mountainous that heavily loaded wagons 
 can travel only in one direction. It strikes Tysch creek, in Des Chutes valley, near Evelyn's 
 rancho. For about 70 miles there is no grass near the road. 
 
 5. Pass near northern base of Mount Hood. — This pass is rarely used by any but Indians. I 
 am told that it is very mountainous in its character, and that there is a great scarcity of grass 
 near the trail. It is considered hardly practicable, even for pack animals. 
 
 6. Columbia liiver Pass. — I travelled down the Columbia, from Fort Dalles to the Cascades, 
 in a small steamboat, and made a reconnaissance of the river between these points. The fol- 
 lowing brief description of this portion of the pass has been prepared from information thus 
 obtained. 
 
 The Columbia river forces its way through the Cascade Range by a pass, which, for wild and 
 sublime natural scenery, equals the celebrated passage of the Hudson through the Highlands. 
 For a distance of about fifty miles, mountains, covered with clinging spruces, firs, and pines, 
 when not too precipitous to afford even these a foothold, rise abruptly from the water's edge to 
 heightd varying from one to three thousand feet. Some of the ridges are apparently composed 
 of compact basaltic conglomerate ; others are enormous piles of small rocks, vast quantities of 
 which have been known to slide into the river, overwhelming everything in their course. 
 Vertical precipices of columnar basalt are occasionally seen rising from fifty to one hundred feet 
 above the water's edge. In other places, the long mountain walls of the river are divided by 
 lateral cafions, containing small tributaries and occasionally little open spots of good land 
 liable to be overflowed at high water. It is difficult to conceive how the river could ever have 
 forced its way through such a labyrinth of mountains. 
 
 About 40 miles below the Dalles, all navigation is interrupted by a series of rapids, called the 
 Cascades. Precipitous mountains, from two to four thousand feet in height, close in upon the 
 stream at this spot, leaving a narrow channel through whicli the water rushes with great 
 violence. During high water, the river bed is only about 900 feet wide at the narrowest place. 
 The descent at the principal rapid was shown by my barometric observations to be 34 feet, and 
 the total fall at the Cascades to be Gl feet. These quantities, however, vary with the different 
 stages of the water, as, when it is high, the obstructions in the channel act like a dam, and 
 greatly increase the depth above. 
 
 An attempt formerly made to build a road round these rapids on the southern bank, entirely 
 
GENKRAL DESCRIPTION OF THE REGIONS EXAMINED. 
 
 33 
 
 i 
 
 failed, on account of the immense expense hi the undertaking. The northern bank is favorable, 
 and a portage, four and a half miles in length, has been constructed by the company owning 
 the line of steamboats plying between the Dalles and Portland. Since'my visit, this has been 
 greatly improved by Lieut. G. II. Derby, Unitetl States Topographical Engineers, who has had 
 charge of the construction of a military road from Vancouver to Fort Dalles. 
 
 Want of time compelled mo to return to the Dalles without examining the river below the 
 Cascades. 
 
 The following information'relating to the navigation of the Columbia, I received from Captain 
 W. B. Wells, the chief proprietor of the line of steamboats plying upon the river ; a gentleman 
 whose business has afforded him nmple opportunity for observation. The river is at its lowest 
 stage about tlie first of April, when it has a depth of between 9 and 10 feet up to tho Cascades, 
 and 9 feet thence to tho Dalles. Above that point it is so much interrupted by rapids as 
 to be unnavigable. It i.s highest about the first of July, when it has a depth of about 18 feet 
 up +9 the Cascades, and of iJ'J feet thence to the Dalles. Tho disproportionate rise in the latter 
 section is due to the stoppage of the water at the Cascades. There are no troublesome snags or 
 floating timber at any time in tho river, but often the shifting sand occasions trouble. The river 
 very rarely I'reezes, and never for more than a day or two at a time. 
 
 As tho Columbia lias succeeded in forcing its way througli the Cascade Range by this pass, it 
 has naturally been supposed that a wagon road or a railroad could bo constructed, at a muderato 
 expense, upon its banks, and an appropriation of §25,000 was mado for the former purpose by 
 Congress. Tho oflicer in charge of the work, Lieut. G. II. Derby, United States Topographical 
 Engineers, mado a careful examination of the route, subsequent to my reconnaissance, and he 
 has reported the road impracticable, without enormous expense. I think that a careful survey 
 would show the same to bo true with reference to a railroad. At present, tho only land com- 
 munication down tho river is by two pack trails, which leave the Dalles on the southern bank. 
 Both are generally well supplied witli grass. I was informed that one, which can only be used 
 when the river is low, is tolerably good ; but that the other continually crosses rough spurs, and 
 winds along tho face of precipices, by paths so narrow, that even mules sometimes lose their 
 foothold. By both trails it is necessary to cross to tlie northern bank of the river, above the 
 Cascades, where the current is strong and the river wide. 
 
 WILLAMKITE VALLEV. 
 
 This valley, which forms the richest and most populous portion of Oregon, lies between the 
 Cascade mountains and the Coast Range. It is about one hundred and fifty miles in length, and 
 fifty in breadtli. Its general elevation above the sea level is from two to eight hundred feet. 
 Some parts of it are well timbered with oak, maple, cedar, fir, spruce, arbor vitae, and other valu- 
 able kinds of trees ; other portions are open and fertile prairies. The soil is generally very rich, 
 and produces in abundance wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and other products of the eastern States. 
 Indian corn, however, cannot be cultivated to advantage. The Willamette river, flowing 
 through the valley, receives many tributaries from the east and west, which furnish an abundant 
 supply of water. The navigation of this river is interrupted by rapids, near Oregon city, about 
 twenty-five miles from its mouth. At the season of high water, however, it is navigable for small 
 steamboats, from the upper end of these rapids to Corvallis, a distance of about one hundred miles 
 by the course of the river. Numerous flourishing towns, and a few cities, are located upon its 
 6X 
 
■17^ 
 
 84 
 
 (il-.NKKAI- DKSCIJirTION OF TlIK HKCilONS KXAMINKD. 
 
 banku, and settlers' lioiiscs are now to lie seen throughout nearly the wliole of this beautiful 
 valley, wliich lias lieen ajiprojiriately called the Garden of Oregon. 
 
 Communication with tlio region east of the Cascade Kange is principally carried on l>y small 
 Hteaniboats upon the Columbia river; but the ])ack trails upon the banks of this stream, and 
 the wagon roails crossing the mountains near Jlount Hood and Diamond Peak, are also nsed 
 for this ]iurpose. The land route to Calil'ornia is very mountainous, but a line of steamers con- 
 nects Portland and tSan Francisco. 
 
 The climate of the valley is mild and salubrious. The following facts relating to this sub- 
 ject arc taken from the Army Meteorological Register, published in 1855. The mean annual 
 temperature is about 52'^. 5 Fah.; that for the summer being about 05° Fah,, and for the winter, 
 40" Fah. The mean fall of rain is, in the spring, 10 inches ; in the summer, from 2 to C, 
 inches ; in the autumn, lU inches ; and in the winter, 20 inches. The mean annual fall varies 
 from 40 to 50 inches. 
 
 CALArOOYA SIOl'NTAINS. 
 
 This name is given to a chain extending from the Cascade to the Coast Range, and separa- 
 ting the Willamette and Umpqua valleys. It is composed of low ridges, most of which are 
 heavily timbere(. with spruce, pine, fir, and oak. A kind of hard sandstone is the prevailing 
 rock. 
 
 There are three wagon roads across these mountains. Two of these, the Applegate and 
 Scott roads, pass over high and steep hills. The third, which is located between them, and 
 which was not fully completed when my party passed over it, follows Pass Creek through the 
 mountains without encountering a single hill. 
 
 UMPQUA VALLEY. 
 
 The principal branch of the Umpqua river, called the South Umpqua, rises in the Cascade 
 mountains near Diamond Peak. At first its course is westerly. In longitude about 123" 15', 
 it bends abruptly towards the north, and after llowiug about 75 miles in this direction, and 
 receiving the waters of the North Umpqua river and Elk creek, it again turns towards the west, 
 and discharges itself into the Pacific. The most valuable and populous portion of the valley 
 lies near the river where its course is northerly. This region consists partly of small open prai- 
 ries, and partly of rolling hills sparsely covered with oak, fir, and other kinds of trees. Much 
 of the land is exceedingly productive. The valley, at present, contains many scattered houses, 
 but very few towns. 
 
 T'SIPQUA MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Little is known of this chain of mountains, except that it extends westward from the 
 Cascade Range nearly to the ocean. It consists of ridges, from 2,000 to 3,000 feet in height, 
 covered with thick forests and underbrush. The rocks are mostly talcose in character. The 
 only road through the chain follows the Umpqua cafion, which is fully described in Chapter 
 V, under the date November 1. Cow creek rises south of the mountains, and flows through 
 them to the South Umpqua, but its canon, although followed by a pack trail, is reported to 
 be too narrow and precipitous for a wagon road. The chain has been crossed at other places 
 by parties with animals, and it is not improbable that a good pass might be discovered by a 
 thorough exploration. 
 
GENKUAL DKSCIUITION OK TIIK HKCIIONM EXAMINKD. 
 
 35 
 
 the 
 ight, 
 
 RocniR niVEn vam-ey. 
 
 Rogue river rises in the Cascailo Ilange, near Jloiint Titt, and flows westward to the Pacific 
 ocean, receiving on the way nnmerous small tributaries from tlio Umpiiua and Siskiyou 
 mountains. Some of tlieso streams flow through fertile valleys, separated from each other hy 
 high and forest-clad hills. Others, especially those near the coast, are sunk in immense 
 cafions. Most of tiie rich land lies near the California and Oregon trail. Gold digging is 
 profitable in many places. Hornblende and granitic rocks predominate, hut Table Rock, and 
 other hills in the vicinity, are basaltic. Jacksonville is at present the only town in the valley, 
 although there are many scattered dwellings. 
 
 SISKIYOU MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Very little is accurately known about this chain, although it has been much explored by 
 g(dd seekers. It is a high and heavily timbered dividing ridge between the waters of Rogue 
 and Klamath rivers, and its general direction is east and west. The prevailing rock is a hard 
 kind of conglomerate sandstone. Near the summit, elevated about 2,400 feet above the base, 
 we found the soil to he an adhesive clay, which, when wet, renders travelling very laborious. 
 Tliere are several pack trails across the chain, but no reliable information concerning them 
 could be obtained. 
 
 KLAMATH RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 
 
 Klamath river, as already stated, rises in the great plateau east of the Cascade Range. 
 After flowing through Klamath marsh, and upper and lower Klamath lakes, it breaks througli 
 the mountains, near Shasta Butte, and following the southern base of the Siskiyou chain, dis- 
 charges itself into the Pacific. Through the greater part of its course, it flows either through 
 sterile table lands, or immense cafions. Gold is found in many places upon its banks. My 
 party, while returning to Fort Reading, passed through the valleys of Shasta, Scott's and 
 Trinity rivers, three of its most important tributaries. These will be described in the order in 
 which they were examined. 
 
 Shasta valley is an undulating region, about 25 miles in length and 15 in breadth, which 
 extends from the base of Shasta Butte, in a northwesterly direction, to Klamath river. A 
 small stream, named from the Butte, traverses it. This valley is sterile, compared with most 
 of those already described, but the thick growth of bunch grass renders it a fine grazing 
 country. It is for its gold, however, that it is chiefly valuable. This metal is found in large 
 quantities ; but mining is difficult on account of the scanty supply of water. To remedy this 
 deficiency, the miners are now digging a ditch from a point near the source of Shasta river, 
 along the base of the hills which bound the valley on the southwest, to the river again near 
 where it discharges itself into the Klamath. This ditch, which is called the Yreka canal, will 
 be, when completed, between 30 and 40 miles in length. It derives its name from the great 
 depot of the northern mines, which is situated in so rich a portion of the valley that gold is 
 dug in the very streets of the city. 
 
 Scott's river flows nearly parallel to Shasta river, being only about 18 miles further to the west. 
 The character of its valley, however, is widely different. Gold digging is not generally profitable 
 in it, although some rich mining claims have been discovered ; especially at Scott's Bar near the 
 mouth of the stream. Most of the land is very productive, and a large portion of the valley is 
 
y^ 
 
 3G 
 
 oicNKUAL nicscnnnioN or tiir nKnioNH kxaminkd. 
 
 now divided into fiirnis, tlio produco of whidi finds t\ ready iniirkot iit Yreka (ind tlio mines. 
 Tlio greater elevation al)ove the Hea renderH tlio elimate nmeh colder than tliat of tlio vuileyB 
 further nortli. Frost has U'cn known to occur hero in every month of the year. 
 
 Trinity river rises near Mount Slmsta, nnd, after iiiiikin"; a great hend to the south, discharges 
 itscdf into the Kluinath river, of whieli it is the largest trihutnry. My party, starting from its 
 head waters, followed down the Htrcain for about one (juarter of its length. It flowed througli 
 a deep ravine, hounded by high and timbered ridges. Tlio bottom was so narrow that there 
 wns very little arable land. A short distance below the point where wo left the river, it enters 
 an immense cafion, which extends without much interruption to its moutli. 
 
 SHASTA MVm: AND TIIR MOUNTAIN CHAINS OF NOUTlIEnN CALII'OIINIA. 
 
 Sliasta IJutte, by far the most striking topographical feature of northern California, rises 
 abruptly to a height generally estimated at 18,000 feet above the sea. The peak is double, and 
 both summits are rounded, massive, and loaded witli eternal snow. Its white cloud-like form is 
 distinctly visible from points in the iSacramento valley, more tiiaii one hundred miles distant. 
 
 This Butte is not only the largest and grandest peak of tiie long range which divides the 
 sterile interior of the country from the fertile valleys of the Tacific Slope, but it is also a great 
 centre, from which diverge the numerous chains that render nortliern California one mass of 
 mountains. In ajjproacliing it by the Oregon trail, both from the north and the south, there 
 is, independent of the high ridges, a gradual increase in the elevation of the country, for abont 
 50 miles. The region near the base itself thus attains an altitude of about 4,000 feet above the 
 sea; and it is an interesting fact, that most of tho northern mines are found upon this vast 
 pedestal of the giant Butte. 
 
 Great confusion exists in the nomenclature of the mountain ranges in the vicinity. The name, 
 Cascade mountains, ceases at Klamath river, but the range in reality divides. One branch, 
 called the Siskiyou mountains, bends westward nearly to tho coast ; the other, under the namo 
 of the Western Chain of tho Sierra Nevada, winds to the southeast, and unites with the main 
 ,"^,3rra Nevada, From the Butte, three steep and thickly wooded ridges called Little Scott's 
 moimtains, Scott's mountains, and Trinity mountains, extend to the westward. The two latter 
 are branches of the Coast Range of California. Shasta l-aitte, although generally considered a 
 peak of the Western Chain of the Sierra Nevada, is, in truth, the great centre from which 
 radiate, besides several smaller ridges, the Cascade Rari;jo, the Coast Eange, and the Western 
 Chain of the Sierra Nevada. 
 
 ;M 
 

 CHAPTER J I. 
 
 RAHROAD UEPOIIT. 
 
 OiNEBAL SlIMMAnV. — PnoPnSJD nAIt.ROAD ROl'TB FROM IlKKICIA TO VdllT RKAniNll.— I'llol'OHKH RAILROAD ROUTK KIIOM FOIIT IlKAIUNO 
 TO VANCOrVKR, KAST OK TIIK CASCAliK HAN(iK. — IloUTK KIKIM lAMl- ill), NKAII Tll« lIKAll (IK lilH CIIITKS VAI.I.KY, TO KOU T 
 I>AM.KH. — RoCTK. KROM Till; DEM CIIUTKJ Tn TIIK WIM.A MKTTK VAM.KV, IIY TIIK NKW PAfH MliAH MULNT HOOD. — 1'roi>08BD 
 RAILROAD ROLTI! KIIOM VANUOLVER TO FOIIT I ► MlIMl, WK8T OF TIIK CASCADK UANUK. 
 
 GENERAL SUMMARY. 
 
 Tun detailed descriptions of tho routes examined lor a railroad will bo iirel'aced by a lew 
 remarks upon tho relation of the different lines to each other, and upon their general character. 
 
 Tho survey began at Denicia. Fr' m that place to Fort Reading, a distance of about 2(»0 
 miles, but one route was examined. It lay through the fertile and settled valley of the Sacra- 
 mento river, where bridges would form the only expensive item in tho construction of a railroad. 
 Tho supply of water and building material would bo ample, and tho average grade would not 
 exceed 5 feet per mile. 
 
 Two routes, well supplied with water and building material, were examined, from Fort 
 Reading to tho Columbia river — one east and the other west of the Cascade Range. A brief 
 description of each will be given. 
 
 1. Itoule east of the Cascade Range. — No insuperable obstacles were encountered on this route 
 until tho head of the Ues Chutes valley was reached ; but beyond that point it was utterly 
 impracticable. A pass was examined, however, through the Cascade Range, near Diamond 
 Peak, by which this valley could be avoided, and the Willamette river reached. The valley of 
 this stream afforded a route to tho Columbia river, very favorable to the construction of a railroad. 
 This route from Fort Reading to the Columbia may be considered iieasiblo. Its length is about 
 000 miles, of wiiich 150 miles lie in a fertile and settled country, where the construction would 
 be easy. The rest of the line traverses a wilderness, generally barren, and, for the most part, 
 elevated from 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the sea. For about 200 miles of the latter section no very 
 heavy work would bo required, but for the remaining 250 miles the expense of construction would 
 be very great, Tho chief obstacles would be encountered in crossing the western chain of the 
 Sierra Nevada ; in passing the two caiions of Pit river ; in constructing tho road along tho 
 shore of Upper Klamath lake ; in following the caiion of Klamath river, between Upper and 
 Lower Klamath lakes ; and in crossing the Cascade Range to the Willamette valley. 
 
 It is thought that there would bo danger of occasional obstruction from snow -Viving a few 
 months in tho year, upon the portion of this route east of the mountains. 
 
 2. Rcmte west of the Cascade Range. — The loss of the escort rendered it impossible to make 
 any side examinations upon this lino. Although the travelled route proved much better than 
 had been anticipated, some portions of it were impracticable for a railroad. There are, however, 
 good reasons for believing that by further examination these places could be avoided. 
 
Ifr^ 
 
 88 
 
 1JAII.U0AU REPOKT — UOrTE FROM BKNICIA TO lORT HEADING. 
 
 Tlie lengtli of the siaveyed line was 470 miles. About .300 miles of it would be easy of 
 construction, about 100 very costly and diflicult, and about 80 impracticable at any reasonable 
 expense. The routes by which the impracticable portions of the line could probably be 
 avoided, will be fully explained in the detailed report. Tlie chief obstacles would be encoun- 
 tered in passing from the Sacramento valley to Shasta valley, and in crossing the Sishiyou 
 mountains, tiie Umpqua mountains, the Grave Creek Hills in Eogue liiver valley, and Long's 
 Hills in Umpqua valley. 
 
 Should further examination show this route to be feasible, it would, for many reasons, be 
 greatly preferable to that surveyed east of the Cascade Range. It traverscfi a region generally 
 but little elevated above the sea, where the danger of obstruction from snow would be very much 
 less than upon the high plateau east of the range. It passes through the richest and most 
 populous portion of Oregon, while a large part of the other traverses a sterile, uninhabited 
 waste. Besides the great amount of way travel always created by a railroad in a settled country, 
 much freight would probably i)ass over this line, which would not be transported over the otlicr. 
 This is evident from the following considerations. There are in the Willamette, Umpqua, and 
 Rogue River valleys areas of very productive land, which is uncultivated only because there is 
 no market for the produce. No large rivers afford watpr communication with the ocean, and the 
 mountains, which cover northern California, almost catirely prevent the transportation of supplies, 
 by had, to that State. Oregon is, therefore, to a great extent, isolated, and dependent upon 
 itself for a market. The construction of a railroad to the Sacramento valley, by this route west 
 of the mountains, would en*'blc the farmers in all these fertile valleys to send their produce to 
 the mining regions of northern California and southern Oregon, where most of the country is 
 unfitted for agricultural purposes, and where the price of provisions is now most exorbitant. 
 The route east of the Cascade Rannje, on the contrary, would neither be accessible to freight 
 from southern Oregon, nor traverse the mining region, where the most profitable market for the 
 produce of the Willamette valley would be found. 
 
 The remainder of this chapter contains detailed descriptions of the different routes explored. 
 
 PROPOSED RAILROAD ROUTE FROM BENICIA TO FORT READING, SURVEVED BY LIEUT. WILLIAMSON. 
 
 Before Lieutenant Williamson's sickness, he had prepared the following report upon the 
 route up the Sacramento valley. As he never revised it, I have made a few necessary verbal 
 corrections, but have not, in the slightest degree, changed its import. It is to be considered 
 entirely his report. 
 
 "The Sacamento valley is a vast plain, about two hundred miles long, and averaging fifty miles 
 in breadth. Through the middle of it flows the Sacramento river, receiving numerous tributaries 
 from the Sierra Nevada, but very few from the Coast Range. The valley is destitute of trees, 
 except upon the river banks, and is covered with a luxuriant growth of wild oats. The soil, 
 during the summer, is very dry, but in winter is so moist as to render travelling very difficult. 
 There is not the slightest topographical obstruction to the construction of any kind of a road, 
 in any part of the valley. 
 
 "In the examination of the valley, therefore, with reference to the construction of a rpllroad, 
 the most important question seems to be the relative advantages presented by the easi and west 
 sides of the valley. I had previously been up and down the valley, on each side, and was well 
 acquainted with its character. 
 
 "Only a very small quantity of water is drained from the eastern slope of the Coast Range ; 
 and most of that is absorbed by the soil at its base. Hence (-iio almost total absence of tribu- 
 
RAILROAD HKrORT — ROUTE FROM BENICIA TO FORT REAPirG. 
 
 39 
 
 taries, received by the river from the west, until we arrive near the liead of the 'alley. The 
 banks of the river, on that side, are generally bluff and unbroken ; the east side, on the contrary, 
 is intersected by numerous streams, coming from the Sierra Nevada ; some, large enough to bo 
 entitled to the name of rivers ; others, so inconsiderable as to be passed unnoticed by the 
 traveller, in summer. These, however, are torrents in winter, and form an important item for 
 consideration, in making a road. 
 
 ' ' The distance from i3enicia to 1 ort Eeading, by the western side of the valley, by the ordinary 
 road, which is very direct, is ITS miles ; while by the eastern side, it is 200 miles. The ^ormer 
 portion, however, is only inhabited along the banks of the river, whereas the tributaries from 
 the Sierra Nevada, intersecting the latter portion, afford plenty of water, and numerous desirable 
 locations for farms. The mining portion of the population is all on this side, and branch roads 
 into the mines would be required. In order, therefore, to afford the means of discussing under- 
 standingly the relative advantages of these two portions, I determined to proceed to Fort 
 Beading by the eastern side of the valley, and note particularly, the size and character of the 
 beds of the water-courses that intersect it, that the extra expense of construction due to bridging, 
 might be estimated. 
 
 " We left our camp near Benicia, on the 10th of July, and travelled thirteen miles, camping 
 on a small stream known as Suisun creek, which is about thirty feet wide. This is the first place 
 where a bridge would be required. From hero we travelled on through the Suisun valley, by a 
 road nearly level, but occasionally passing through low, rolling hills, until, thirty-two miles from 
 Benicia, we came to Putos creek, which is a stream sixty or seventy fe<>t wide. When we crossed 
 it, the w.^toi in the creek was thirty feet below the top of the banks ; but in winter it sometimes 
 overflows them. This stream, at the most ftivorable point, would require a bridge 130 feet long. 
 
 " The only other stream, before reachiag the Sacramento river, is Cache creek, which diifers 
 from Putos creek in occupying a broad bed with low banks. At the narrowest plane I saw, the 
 bed was 100 yards wide, with banks thirty feet high, and I am told that in time of freshet these 
 are overflowed. Thus, but three bridges would be required between Benicia and the Sacramento 
 river, and, if the road followed up the west bank, none other would be required for sixty miles. 
 Above that, the river receives a tributary every fifteen or twenty miles. 
 
 " We crossed the Sacramento river at Fremont, a town of half u dozen houses, opposite the 
 mouth of Feather river. The Sacramento was low, and 260 yards wide. In time of high water 
 wlien the banks are not overflowed, it is 300 yards wide, but in time of freshet the eoiuitry is 
 overflowed for miles. I came down the river in December, 1S52, when the sheet of water cover- 
 ing the country was fifty miles broad. Vast quantities of stock were destroyed. Sacramento city 
 waf overflowed, and much damage done to property there. 
 
 " From the crossing of the Sacramento, we travelled up the eastern side of the valley, all the 
 ^'a,y to Fort Pleading, following Feather river for nearly fifty miles. The country was a level 
 plain until within forty milea of the fort, wheu it assum;'d an undulatory character, but presented 
 no serious obstacle to the construction of a railroad. The average grade from Benicia to the 
 fort, is 2.6 feet per mile. » 
 
 "In order to show the amount of bridging required for a road going up on the eastern side of 
 the valley, I have constructed the following table, which gives a concise description of every 
 stream crossed. This table includes all those which are dry in summer, but which must be 
 bridged to allow a free passage for the water in winter. The height of the banks is given for 
 1 w water." 
 
m^ 
 
 40 
 
 EAILKOAD KKPOET — ROUTE FKOM BENICIA "-O FOIJT BEADING. 
 
 Water-courses north of Fremont, on the route curvei/ed up ihe Sacramento valley. 
 
 Nftiu^ of 8trciim. 
 
 Siicmmento. 
 
 Coon creek 
 
 Hear rrook 
 
 Yiilia liver 
 
 Fei-.tlier liver 
 
 Dryitiilly 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 DiyRully 
 
 DryKully 
 
 Dry giiUy 
 
 DryK'illy 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 lint'.o creek 
 
 i.ittle I'utte creek. 
 
 DrypuUy 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Chico cr 'c 
 
 D'y gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Diygully. 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 D.-yK<>lly 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Deer creek 
 
 Dry creek . 
 
 Dry creek 
 
 Dry creek 
 
 Mill creek.. 
 
 Mill creek slough. 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry bed 
 
 Dry lie.I 
 
 Dry bed 
 
 Antelope creek. .. 
 Gully with water. 
 Oully witli water. 
 
 Dist. from 
 Krcuiont, 
 
 Miles. 
 
 fj 
 
 13.8 
 
 17.9 
 
 29.4 
 
 30.1 
 
 CC. 
 
 68.0 
 
 59.7 
 
 61.7 
 
 U3. 
 
 G4. 4 
 
 G4. 6 
 
 68.1 
 
 68. 8 
 
 70.3 
 
 70.8 
 
 73.7 
 
 74.1 
 
 75.5 
 
 75.9 
 
 7.S.5 
 
 80 5 
 
 81.2 
 
 85.9 
 
 88.4 
 
 87.1 
 
 88.2 
 
 90.0 
 
 01.3 
 
 92.1 
 
 92.9 
 
 93.4 
 
 83.6 
 
 96.4 
 
 97.1 
 
 101.1 
 
 102.1 
 
 102.2 
 
 104.1 
 
 104.9 
 
 106.2 
 
 107.4 
 
 1.07. 7 
 
 108.1 
 
 110.4 
 
 Ltingth of 
 bridge. 
 
 /;■<•/. 
 
 ^1 
 
 Kemarks. 
 
 300 
 33 
 30 
 200 
 250 
 75 
 25 
 12 
 12 
 10 
 10 
 15 
 15 
 50 
 20 
 30 
 10 
 30 
 20 
 10 
 12 
 18 
 40 
 10 
 12 
 50 
 40 
 20 
 12 
 in 
 30 
 60 
 15 
 80 
 20 
 60 
 40 
 40 
 10 
 30 
 i) 
 15 
 45 
 30 
 36 
 
 Banks 30 feet high 
 
 Itanks 10 or 12 feet above water. 
 I3auk8 low 
 
 Banks 30 feci high. BlHlfs 
 
 Well built wooden bridge 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks 25 feet above water. 
 
 Blinks low 
 
 Banks low 
 
 Banks low 
 
 Banks low 
 
 Banks low 
 
 Banks low 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low 
 
 Blinks low 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low 
 
 lianka low 
 
 Banks low 
 
 Banks low 
 
 Banks low 
 
 iSanks low 
 
 Iliinks low 
 
 Banks low 
 
 Biinks low.. 
 
 :^ 
 
 ■X 
 
RAILROAD REPORT — ROUTK EAST OF CASCADE RANGE. 
 Water-courses — Continued, 
 
 41 
 
 Slough 
 
 Slough 
 
 Slough 
 
 Creek with water. 
 
 DryBiilly 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Seven Mile creek . 
 
 Beaver creek 
 
 ijver creek 
 
 liattlc trcek 
 
 Bear creek 
 
 Cow creek 
 
 PROPOSED RAILROAD ROUTE FROM FORT READING TO VANCOUVER, EAST OF THE CASCADE RANGE 
 
 SURVEYED BY LIEUTENANT WILLIAMSON. 
 
 In preparing the following description of this route, I have heencarefu^- to express Lieuteuant 
 Williamson's ideas, as far as they are known to me. As, however, he seldom referred directly 
 to the railroad, in his journal, I have sometimes heen unable to ascertain definitely what his 
 opinion was. In such cases, I have given my own. 
 
 With the exception of the Willamette valley and a small portion of the Sacramento valley, 
 the regions traversed by this route are unsettled, and, as a general thing, barren in their character. 
 Ther-,r':s are chiefly of volcanic origin. The few fertile spots are usually difhcult of acces:, 
 an*' ',\c "virciy is unfitted to support, a civilized population. 
 
 O'l'io /j'iu-i^te of the region east of the Cascade Range, traversed by tliis route, we have no 
 detini;.! ':aii'.i:3,lge, founded upon long continued observations ; but it is well known tliat little 
 or no rain ■•)1' during several months of the year, and that the whole region is often covered 
 with snow in the winter. Colonel J. C. Fremont, in traversing it during the winter of 1843-44, 
 found the snow occasionally three feet in depth, and the climate severe. In the latter part of 
 August, water fro/, il night in our camps near the head of Dcs Chutes valley, at an elevation 
 of only about 4,200 feet above the sea. In ray (pinion, there would be danger of occasional 
 obstruction from snow, during a few months 'ii the year, should a railroad ever be constructed 
 on this plateau. 
 
 '.'^he supply of water, fuel, and building materials is almost unlimited, upon the whole route. 
 Tht only place where there is any deficiency of timber in the immediate vicinity of the trail, is 
 D?A, Lost rivtr and Rhett lake, and tliere it can be easily obtained from the neighboring hills. 
 There is no lack of water, or good building stone, at any point upon the line. It only remains 
 to describe the difficulties of actual construction. The grades will not, as a general thing, be 
 mentioned in this report, as those upon the travelled route are given on profile No. 1, sheet No. 
 ], and those upon the proposed railroad line, on profile No. 2, of the same sheet, aud also in 
 6X 
 
42 
 
 lUlLKOAl) KEPORT — KOITE KAST dl' CASfAlti; KANGE. 
 
 Appendix F. In constructing the latter profile, I have generally included the windings of the 
 trail in the estimate of distances between stations. Tliis has been done, partly because it would 
 be impossible, in much of tlie region traversed, to speak with certainty of any of the country 
 not actually passed over ; and partly, because the winding necessary to obtain uniformly easy 
 grades, would generally render it impossible to materially diminish the travelled distances, 
 although the general direction of the line might be more direct. 
 
 The first obstacle encountered after leaving Fort Reading, was the western chain of the Sierra 
 Nevada. As Lieutenant E. G. Beckwith, 3d artillery, had surveyed in 18o4, and reported 
 favorably upon the Pit river pass, or, as he terms it, the Upper Sacramento river pass, through 
 this chain. Lieutenant Williamson deemed it unnecessary to make any re-examination of it. He, 
 therefore, took the more direct route by Noble '« Pass to the plateau east of the mountains. Our 
 profile of this pass does not differ very matei. i' '•• '\ that of Lieutenant Beckwith, who also 
 examined the route ; but our barometric observai, low the altitude of the summit to be 18G 
 
 feet greater, and tlie altitude of Fort Reading to be .^7 feet less, than was stated in his report. 
 These discrepancies may be easily ex{)laine(l, au Licutenaut Beckwith was unable to obtain any 
 correction for the abnormal oscillation of the barometric column, a correction which sometimes 
 exceeds these differences in amount. Noble's Pass is certainly very unfavorable for a railroad, 
 and I think that Lieutenant Williamson considered it impracticable, without a tunnel. The line 
 down Canoe creek valley to Pit river, would also involve some very expensive work and heavy 
 grades ; as will be seen by reference to the profile of our travelled route. In constructing the 
 profile of the proposed railroad line, I have, therefore, adopted the route surveyed by Lieutenant 
 Beckwith, from Fort Reading through the Pit river pass to the mouth of Canoe creek. Lieu- 
 tenant Beckwith considers this route practicable, although it involves some very heavy work. 
 A detailed description of it will be found in his report, which is contained in Vol. 2 of this series. 
 
 A short distance above the moutli of Canoe creek, the river passes through a canon, 4.5 miles 
 in length. The sides are so steep and so near the water, that Lieutenant Williamson was unable 
 to enter on foot, at its mouth. His description of it will be found in Chapter III, under the 
 date August 5. He considered it impracticable to construct a railroad through it, <it any reason- 
 able expense, on account of the vast amount of rock cutting and tunneling, which would be 
 required. The distance between Camps 19 and 20, which were situated near the water level at 
 the lower and upper ends of this canon, was, by the course of the stream, 7.5 miles. Tiio dif- 
 ference in their elevation was 520 feet. Hence the descent of the stream, and consequently the 
 grade in the canon, must be at least 09 feet per mile. 
 
 Although the ])ass which I examined through kStoneman's ridge, was unfavorable for a 
 railroad, it is considered preferable to the cafion. By side location, the road could pass from 
 Camp 19 to the foot of the main ridge, a distance of i}.5 miles, with an a.scending grade of 168 
 feet per mile. It would then follow up the ravine for 2.3 miles, with a grade of about 200 feet 
 per mile. A tunnel, half a mile in length, tlirough trap rock would then be advisable; 
 althougli, by very heavy grades, and winding to increase distance, it might probably be avoided. 
 A descent of 89 feet would be required in the tunnel, which would pass 303 feet below the 
 summit of the ridge. From the eastern entrance, the road, by side location, could reach Camp 
 20, with descending grades of 200 feet per mile for 0.8 of a mile, and 63 feet per mile for 4.4 
 miles. 
 
 The route examined between the two caiiona, traversed a slightly undulating plain, and no 
 
 I 
 
 
RAILROAD REPORT — ROUTE EAST OF CASCADE RANGE. 
 
 43 
 
 lieavy grades or ex|iensive work would be required. In the last few miles, however, consider- 
 able cutting; tlirough trap rock might be necessary. 
 
 Lieutenant Williamson's notes on the upper canon of Pit river, will be found in Chapter III, 
 under the date August 7. He considered it practicable to construct a railroad in this canon, at 
 a reasonable expense ; although much heavy rock cutting and numerous short curves would be 
 required. The ascending grade would be 7C feet per mile, for the whole distance of 9.9 miles ; 
 and it is probable that numerous bridges would be necessary. It is my opinion, that a better 
 location would be found, by further examination, upon the northern bank of the river. The 
 trail, although very rocky in places, is generally good, and the hills are low. Although the 
 river descends about 750 feet, from a higher to a lower terrace, in this caiion, I think that by 
 proper side location, the necessary ascent might be made, and a line conducted round the caiion 
 on this bank, with grades never exceeding 200 feet per mile. The expense of construction 
 would probably bo very much less than by the caiion route. 
 
 The road would next cross Round Valley to Camp 23. No difficulty of any kind would be 
 encountered in this section. 
 
 Between Camps 23 and 24 the country was hilly, and considerable heavy cutting through 
 cellular trap would be necessary. It is highly probable that the spring branch upon which 
 Camp 24 was situated, discharges into Pit river. If so, the railroad should follow up its course. 
 
 Between Camps 24 and 25, the only serious obstacle would be the low ridge which borders 
 Wright lake. It is very probable that these hills could be turned by passing to the west of 
 Wright lake, and striking Ehett lake at once ; but as this line was not examined, I have 
 represented on the railroad profile the route by Wright lake, with the grades which could be 
 readily obtained by side location, and an increase of distance of 2.5 miles. The railroad would 
 gain the summit, with an ascending grade of 150 feet per mile for 3.5 miles, by winding to- 
 wards the east, at the foot of the ridge. It would then descend to Camp 25, with a grade of 
 150 feet per mile, for 3.5 miles. 
 
 The first ridge crossed after leaving Camp 25, could be turned, with an increase of distance of 
 about one mile, by locating the road further tnwards the noith. 
 
 The next obstacle of importance, was the steep descent to the shore of Rhett lake. This 
 could be overcome by winding towards the south, with a grade of 200 feet per mile, for one 
 mile. 
 
 Tlie road would then traverse a flat plain, to the Natural Bridge of Lost river. The stream, 
 which is here deep and sluggish, is about 80 feet in width, witli banks but little elevated above 
 the water surface. A description of the Natural Bridge will be found in Chapter III, under tiie 
 date August 13. Whether the stone arches are sufficiently strong to support a railroad, can 
 only be ascertained by careful examination and measurement. Loaded wagons now cross, with- 
 out danger. Trap rock and pine timber, for construction, could be readily obtained from the 
 neighboring hills. 
 
 From the Natural Bridge to Upper Klamath lake, the only expensive work would be encoun- 
 tered in passing the low ridge which borders the lake on the south. A short cut of 23 feet, 
 through trap rock, would be required. It is probable, that a portion of the upper part of Lost 
 river valley, is occasionally submerged, in the rainy season, by water from the lake; but 1 think, 
 that a location could be easily found, which would avoid this danger. 
 
 The railroad would next follow the lake shore to the point where our trail left it. Consider- 
 
w 
 
 rmm 
 
 44 
 
 KAILKOAU HErOUT — UOUTK KAST OF CASCADK BANGE. 
 
 able heavy cutting througli trap mck, and a fow Hliort bridges over springs and small arms of 
 the hike, would undoubtedly be necessary. 
 
 The valley of Xhiniath river could be loUowed without exj)en8ivi, work, to the entrance of tlie 
 canon. T'lis canon, which is four miles in length, is a formidable obstacle, and would re<iuire an 
 amount of cutting through trap and pumice-stone, which can only be estimated by a detailed 
 examination. Lieut. Williamson expressed to me his opinion, that the route was practicable, 
 but very expensive. A description of this canon will be found in Chapter III, under the date 
 August 'JO. 
 
 From till' northern end of the canon to Camp 34, the country is nearly level ; and the only 
 difficulty would be to guard against an overflow of tlie waters of Klamath marsh, in the rainy 
 season. A bridge, about 150 feet in length, would be necessary to cross Klamath river, for 
 which an abundance of pine timber could be easily obtained. 
 
 From Camp M to Camp 35, the route was very favorable for the construction of a railroad. 
 Thence to Camj) 30, on Des Chutes river, no very expensive work would be necessary. The 
 ^ountry, however, is undulating, and a large amount of cutting and filling through pumice-stone, 
 and occasionally through trap rock, would be required. Of this portion of the route, Lieut. 
 Williamson writes in his journal: " There is a dividing range not of mountains, but of hills, 
 between Klamath marsh and the Des Chutes river. There are, apparently, several low places 
 to cross it, through one of which the trail runs. Tiiere appears to be no topographical obstacle 
 to the location of a railroad. The main difficulty would be the extreme lightness of the soil." 
 
 I crossed the Cascade liange by a different pass from Lieut. Williamson, and did not, there- 
 fore, traverse tlie remaining portion of this proposed railroad line, myself. I have, however, 
 often conversed with Lieut. Williamson about it, and the following description is based entirely 
 upon information thus obtained, and upon his recorded field notes. 
 
 From Camp 30, the railroad would follow up the brancii of Des Chutes river, to Camp 44 W. 
 The valley is open, and tlie construction would be easy for the whole distance. 
 
 'Uhe grades upon the route followed by Lieut. Williamson, from Camp 44 W. to Camp 45 W., 
 were impracticable for a railroad, as will be seen by referring to profile No. 1, sheet No. 1. 
 From the highest point of the pass, however, he could overlook the country towards the south, 
 and see a route which he considered perfectly feasible. The dense forest^ rising from a tangled 
 mass of underbrush and fallen timber, rendered it impossible for him to actually traverse this 
 route ; but he was fully satisfied that practicable grades could be obtained without tunneling. 
 He often expressed to me his ojiinion, that the immense amount of fallen timber would be 
 the greatest obstacle encountered in constructing a railroad through the pass. He indicated 
 the following course for the proposed railroad line. It would follow up the branch of Des 
 Chutes river, and gain the summit of the main ridge, between two prominent peaks east of 
 the lake which forms the source of the Middle Fork of the Willamette. The altitude of the 
 summit appeared to be considerably less than it was where be crossed the ridge, but, as he had 
 no means of estimating the difference with accuracy, he thought it best to assume, on the profile, 
 the same altitude. The grades in reality, therefore, are rather more favorable than represented 
 on profile No. 2, sheet No. 1. From the summit, the line would descend by side location to the 
 lake, and then follow down the Middle Fork to the vicinity of Camp 4.'i W. Both the eastern 
 and western sides of the ridge appeared to be free from small ravines, so that a side location 
 could be made without great expense in cutting and filling ; but Lieut. Williamson appre- 
 
i'4. 
 % 
 
 •I 
 
 J 
 
 RAILHOAl) KKPOUT KOlTi; I'UOM CAMl' :tO TO KOUT DALT.KS. 
 
 45 
 
 liended \!:,vcni diflicnlty in fnllowiii}? the Middlo Fork from tlie lake to where his trail struck it. 
 His notes upon the ptish ivill be fouml in Chapter IV, under the date September 29. 
 
 From Camp 45 W to the Willamette valley, the i.Tilroad would follow the course of the 
 Middle Fork. Occasional heavy cutting through lateral hj urs would be required, but no very 
 costly work. 
 
 A discussion of the facilities offered for the construction of a railroad in the Willamette 
 valley, will be given in connectiop with my return route from Vancouver to Fort Reading. ^ 
 
 ■I 
 
 ItOlITI'; FUOM CAMP .'!(•>, NlIAIl TIIK IIKAO OK 'I'll!-; DICS (JHUTEH VALLICY, TO KOUT DALLKS. 
 
 BY I.IKUT. AUHOT. 
 
 sunvuvKi) 
 
 As the route down the Des Chutes valley to the Columbia river is considered utterly imprac- 
 ticable for a railroad, it is deemed only necessary to state the grounds upon which tliis opinion 
 is based. The whole difficulty consists in obtaining suitable gradients. The supply of water 
 is abundant, and good timber for ties and fuel can always be obtained, at a slight cost, from the 
 neighboring mountains, when it is not found near the trail. 
 
 The road could be built at a moderate expense, with a descending grade of 13 feet per mile, 
 from the place where we first reached the Des Chutes river, to the point where my party rafted 
 it, a distance of about 2'J miles. Tiie stream was here about 150 feet wide, and flowed with a 
 rapid current over a rocky bed. It could have been forded, but not witliout wetting tlie jiacks. 
 The nature of the banks would render it necessary that a bridge 8ho>ild be at least 200 feet in 
 length. A short distance below this point, the river enters the great caiion. It is not considered 
 practicable, without enormous expense, to construct a railroad from this place to the Dalles, 
 either in this caiion, or upon the eastern or western side of the valley. The obstacles to be 
 encountered ou each of these three routes will be briefly stated. 
 
 The caiion, which in many places is more than 1,000 feet in depth, extends, without doubt, 
 to the mouth of the river ; a distance of about 140 miles. It abounds in rapids and short bends, 
 which would render numerous tunnels and deep cuts through a kind of basaltic rock of exceeding 
 hardness, indispensable. There would also beconstant danger of avalanches of earth and stone, 
 from the precipitous sides. The average descent of the river in the canon, is about 25 feet per mile. 
 
 Of the eastern side of the valley below the rafting place, comparatively little is accurately 
 known. Much of it appears, when seen from a distance, to be a bare, sterile plateau, some 
 portions of which are level, and others broken by rolling hills. As the river undoubtedly 
 receives most of its tributaries from the Cascade Range, it is possible that the numerous lateral 
 cailons, which furrow the western bank and render it impracticable for a railroad, might not be 
 encountered on the eastern. But, even if this should prove to be the case, in order to reach the 
 navigable portion of the Columbia river, it would be necessary to cross the Des Chutes canon by 
 an embankment or bridge, nearly a mile in length and from 500 to 1,000 feet in height, and 
 then, before reaching the Dalles, to overcome other obstacles involving equal expense. 
 
 The western side of the valley was thoroughly explored by my party. As insurmountable 
 difficulties were subsequently encountered, it is sufficient to state of the section extending from 
 the rafting place to Camp S on Why-chus creek, a distance of about 34.4 miles, that the con- 
 struction of a railroad through it would be rendered very expensive, by the necpssity of crossing 
 numerous ravines from 100 to 200 feet deep, and of cutting through several high, rocky spurs. 
 An average descending grade of 20 feet per mile, would be required. The country north of Why- 
 chus creek was very carefully examined, both near the river and near the mountains. The best 
 
46 
 
 HAILKOAD Rin'OKT— KOUTK I'ROM DES CHUTES TO WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 
 
 route which couUl bo Ibund for a railroad, lay through a level irairio around the western base of 
 a prominent conical butte, to the canon of Mpto-ly-as river; which could be entered by a wide, 
 open ravine. This stream, the caiion of which is the first impassable obstacle to the road, rises 
 among the peaks south of Mount Jefferson. After flowing towards the north for a few miles, it 
 takes an easterly course, and discharges itself into the Des Cliutes. The depth of its canon 
 varies from 800 to 2,000 feet, and the width at the top, from two miles to half a mile. There is 
 no pass between it and Mount Jefferson. It would be necessary, after entering the caiion from 
 the south, to keep up the grade by locating the railroad high upon the eastern side, although 
 there would be many small lateral ravines to bridge. After about 18 miles of this diflScult and 
 very costly construction, it would be necessary to cross the river, near its most northern point, 
 by an embankment about a mile long, and 1,200 feet high ; and thus reach the top of the great 
 basaltic plateau. A line from thesnov/y summit of Mount Jefferson, eastward to the Des Chutes 
 river, was carefully exnmined ; and this is the best route to this plateau which could be found. 
 It is thought, that the impracticability of the road is made sufficiently manifest, by stating 
 without further detail, that by the most favorable location from this point to the Dalles, a 
 distance of about 75 miles, there would be, be.side smaller obstacles, seven canons to cross, similar 
 to that of the Mpto-ly-as river although not quite so deep^ and a difficult spur from the (Cascade 
 Range, called the Glutton mountains. 
 
 By this description it will be seen, that, at the head of the Des Chutes river, the railroad 
 coming from the south, should either cross the Cascade llange to the Willamette valley, or bend 
 towards the east, and, avoiding entirely the Dos Cliutes valley, reach the Columbia, above the 
 head of navigation, by some as yet unexplored route. 
 
 KOUTE FUOM THE DES CHUTES TO THE WHXAMETTE VALLEV, 1!Y THE NEW PASS NEAU MOUNT HOOD. 
 
 SURVEYED BY LIEUTENANT ABBOT. 
 
 The most unfavorable feature of this route for a railroad, is tlie difficulty of access to the new 
 pass. To reach it on the western side of the Des Chutes valley, either from the north, or the 
 south, is utterly impracticable. As, however, it appears to be a better railroad pass through 
 the Cascade Range, than any surveyed further south ; and, as there is a bare possibility that it 
 may be reached from the eastern side of the valley, it is deemed advisable to describe it with 
 considerable minuteness. 
 
 The crossing of the Des Chutes cauon would bo a most difficult and costly undertaking ; but, 
 if it could be accomplished near the Mutton mountains, I think Nee-nee springs might be easily 
 reached. Between that point and the pass, a distance of 24.3 miles, no great obstacle would 
 be encountered. The grade is less than 100 feet per mile, except at three places, where it is for 
 half a mile 206 feet, for two miles 141 feet, and for one mile 125 feet, per mile. At these 
 points it could be easily reduced, by side location, to 100 feet per mile. 
 
 From the entrance of the pass, the line would follow the course of a branch of Tysch creek to 
 Wat-tum-pa lake, a distance of 0.2 miles, with an ascending grade of eighty-five feet per mile. 
 A little side cutting, and the removal of a great number of logs, would be requisite in this section. 
 West of the lake the trail passed over a steep hill, which could be avoided by following the 
 course of a small tributary. Ty-ty-pa lake could thus be reached with an ascending grade 
 of 109 feet per mile, for 3.8 miles. The trail next passed over a steep ridge which formed the 
 true summit of the pass. Its altitude above the sea level, was 4433 feet. The ascent from 
 Ty-ty-pa lake to the summit, by the trail, ..as 416 feet ; and the descent to a great ravine, about 
 200 feet. It is thought that this ridge might be crossed at a much lower point, a little further 
 
HAILROAD RKPORT — ROl 'TK WKST OF CASCADK RANGE. 
 
 47 
 
 to the north, hut, even if this should not prove to be ho, hoth the ascending and descending grades 
 could be reduced, by side location and an increase of distance, to less than 200 feet per niilo. 
 This could be easily done, as the ridge is not furrowed by many ravines. The removal of a largo 
 quantity of timber would be the principal difficulty. 
 
 From the summit of the pass to the Willamette valley, the railroad would follow a route which 
 we could not travel over, on account of an immense number of logs that completely blocked up 
 the wa3'. We passed along ridges, however, from which we could overlook it, and see that the 
 fallen timber was probably the only serious obstacle. The great ravine extending north and 
 south could be crossed, and Clackamas ravine entered by a lateral canon and ftdlowed, apparently 
 without any obstruction from bends or side spurs, to the valley. The approximate distance 
 would bo thirty-eight miles, and the approximate grade, for most of the way, 125 feet per mile. 
 It would he less than this, near the summit. 
 
 Tiiroughout the whole distance, the supply of timber, water and stone is abundant. Occa- 
 sionally a little heavy rock and earth cutting would be required, but the chief difficulty, in 
 preparing tiie road bed, would be to clear away the mass of timber, logs, and underbrush, which 
 now renders portions of the route utterly impassable. During the winter, it is probable that the 
 pass is blocked up with snow, to a depth of 20 or 25 feet, but concerning this, nothing is known 
 with certainty. 
 
 it 
 ith 
 
 PROPOSED RAILROAD ROUTE FROM VANCOUVER TO FORT READING, WEST OF THE CASCADE 
 
 RANGE. SURVEYED BV LIEUT. ABBOT. 
 
 The party which examined this route, was deprived of its escort, by the officer commanding 
 the Columbia River and Puget Sound District. As this loss caused the survey to be made under 
 great disadvantages, and prevented certain important side explorations, it has been deemed 
 proper to state, in full, the circumstances of the case, and to give a detailed account of the Indian 
 disturbances, which greatly embarrassed the party in the performance of the duties assigned to 
 it by the War Department. This has been done in Chapter V, under the date October 19, and 
 between the dates October 30 and November 5, inclusive. 
 
 The result of the survey showed the route to be much more favorable to the construction of 
 a railroad, than had been anticipated, and, although certain portions of the lino actually exam- 
 ined were found to be very unfavorable, it is thought that a way to avoid these places would 
 have been discovered by further exploration, had not this been prevented by the loss of the 
 escort. 
 
 The climate of the regions through which this route passes, is mild. The mean winter 
 temperature, for the two years 1853 and 1854, was 33°. 78 Fah., at Fort Jones, which is situated 
 upon the coldest portion of the line. At Fort Reading, for the same years, it was 46°. 12 Fah., 
 and at Fort Vancouver, for the four years, 1850, '51, '52, '53, it wao 39°. 54 Fah. This informa- 
 tion is derived from the Army Meteorological Register, published in 1855. Unpublished records 
 of the medical department show that the mean temperature at Fort Lane, for the winter of 1856, 
 was 38°. 89 Fah. It appears from these data, that, should a railroad be constructed upon this 
 route, there will be little danger of serious obstruction from snow. 
 
 An unlimited supply of wood, water and stone, for railroad purposes, is found in the 
 immediate vicinity of this line, throughout its whole extent. It only remains, therefore, to 
 consider the route with reference to the actual difficulties of construction. 
 
 It may be well to state, that, as the grades upon the route travelled are given on profile No. 1, 
 
49 
 
 RAILROAD REPOirr — ROUTE AVEST OF CASCADE RANGE. 
 
 !' '■! 
 
 sheet No. 2, and those upon the proposed railroad lino, on profile No. 2, sheet No. 2, and in 
 Ajipendix F, they will not, as a general tiling, he repeated in this report. 
 
 For ahout ir)0 miles alter leaving the Columhia river, the route lies in the Willamette valley. 
 This region is admirahly adajjted to the construction of a railroad. The surface is level, or 
 gently undulating, the streams, although numerous, are small, and the settled character of the 
 country would render it easy to obtain supplies of every kind for the working parties. An 
 average grade of ahout ten feet per mile would be required, and it is thought that the maximum 
 grade would not exceed fifty feet per mile. Two routes from Oregon City to Eugene City were 
 examined: Lieut. Williamson followed the hill road, upon the eastern side of the valley ; I took 
 the most direct road from Oregon City to Salem, and after crossing the Willamette at that 
 point, passed up its western side. Although it would be perfectly practicable to construct a 
 railroad in the immediate vicinity of either of these routes, a better location could, without 
 doubt, be found between them on the eastern bank of the river. 
 
 The following tables give an approximate idea of the amount of bridging necessary upon each 
 of the surveyed lines. 
 
 Table of ivater-coursea in the Willamette Valley, upon Lieutenant AbboV s route. 
 
 Name of stream. 
 
 Slough .. 
 
 Creek 
 
 Smnll creek...... 
 
 Clackamas river . . 
 
 Sm:ill creek 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Mollalle river 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Pudding river 
 
 Slough 
 
 Marsh 
 
 Small creek 
 
 ■Willamette river , 
 La Creole river... 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Lackimute river • 
 
 Slough .. 
 
 Mary's river 
 
 Long Tom creek. 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Distance from Length of 
 camp near bridge. 
 Vancouver. 
 
 VUa. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 1 
 
 30 
 
 12 
 
 30 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 130 
 
 25.5 
 
 10 
 
 25.6 
 
 10 
 
 30 
 
 80 
 
 34.3 
 
 10 
 
 36 5 
 
 70 
 
 49.6 
 
 40 
 
 62.7 
 
 600 
 
 60 
 
 40 
 
 60.7 
 
 300 
 
 66..S 
 
 20 
 
 71 
 
 10 
 
 77 
 
 40 
 
 82 
 
 10 
 
 94 
 
 60 
 
 108.5 
 
 50 
 
 154, 6 
 
 10 
 
 155.3 
 
 10 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Banks l.'> foot high. 
 
 Banks 20 feet high. 
 
 Bimks low. 
 
 Banks 30 feet high. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks .<!0 feet high. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Bunks 20 to 30 feet high. Bridge. 
 
 Banks 20 feet high, with gradual lilope. 
 
 Banks miry. 
 
 Banks 20 fee high. 
 
 Banks 40 feet high, wi'n gradual slope. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Bimks low. Bridge. 
 
 Banks 40 feet high. Steep. 
 
 Bivnks low. 
 
 Banks 20 feet higli, with gradual slope. 
 
 Banks 30 feet high. Bridge. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. ' 
 
RAILROAD REPORT — ROUTK WKST OF CASCADE RANGE. 
 Table of ivater-coursea in the Willamette Valley, upon Lieutenant Williamson's route. 
 
 4» 
 
 Name of atrcani. 
 
 Slough , 
 
 Creek 
 
 Crock , 
 
 Clackauias river 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Small creek... 
 
 Mill creek 
 
 Mollalle river 
 
 Main Rock creek 
 
 liranch of llock creek 
 
 Ilutto creek 
 
 Albennia creek 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Silver creek 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Slouch 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Small creek 
 
 North fork of Santiam river. 
 
 Thomas Fork..... .. 
 
 Crabtree creek 
 
 South Beaver creek 
 
 Sou Q '>rk of Santiam river. 
 Slou'i 1 
 
 Small creek 
 
 Calapooya creek 
 
 Dry gully 
 
 Mud creek. . 
 
 McKenzie's Fork . 
 
 Slough 
 
 Middle Fork at Eugene City 
 
 I Difltanco from 
 i camp near 
 ! Vancouver. 
 
 Ijcngth of 
 bridge. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 It 
 
 18 
 
 23.2 
 25.3 
 28. (! 
 31.0 
 37. t 
 30. 5 
 41.8 
 41. 4 
 45.6 
 4G. 6 
 50 
 50.8 
 52. 1 
 54.3 
 58.2 
 C4.3 
 64. C 
 04.7 
 64.8 
 69.4 
 72.4 
 73.5 
 75.3 
 81.6 
 89.9 
 91.8 
 98.7 
 103.0 
 112.3 
 112.4 
 117.8 
 
 feet. 
 ,M0 
 30 
 10 
 
 130 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 20 
 
 60 
 
 10 
 10 
 40 
 15 
 
 100 
 10 
 20 
 10 
 10 
 5 
 25 
 15 
 10 
 
 130 
 GO 
 50 
 10 
 
 100 
 
 20 
 15 
 10 
 20 
 120 
 25 
 about 100 
 
 Banks 15 feet bigli. 
 
 Banks 20 feet high. Bridee. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks 30 feet high. • 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks 10 feet high. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks 8 feet high. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks 20 feet high. 
 
 Biinks low. 
 
 Blinks 15 to 20 feet high. Bridge. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks 10 feet high. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks 15 feet high. Bluffs. 
 
 Banks 20 to 30 feet high. Bridge. 
 
 Banks 20 to 30 feet high. Bridge. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks 10 feet high. Bridge. 
 
 Bivnks 15 to 20 feet high. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. 
 
 Banks low. Spore's Ferry. 
 
 Banks low. Bridge. 
 
 The distance from the camp opposite Vancouver, to Camp 71 A. near the head of 
 the Coast Fork of the Willamette, is, by my route, 157.5 miles, and by that of Lieut. William- 
 son, which joins mine at Eugene City, 142.8 miles. There are a few low hills upon each of these 
 lines, but, as a railroad could be located between them over an almost level plain, a more 
 detailed description is not considered necessary. 
 
 The Willamette and Umpqua valleys are separated by the Calapooya mountains. An excellent 
 pass was found through this range. From Camp 71 A. the line would follow up a small 
 
w 
 
 ^ 
 
 /)0 
 
 HAILROAl) KKl'ORT — IJOUTE WEST 01' CAHCAUK HANQE. 
 
 branch of the CoaHt Fork of tho Willanictto to a little mcailow, oluvated 8C3 feet altovc the flea. 
 TliiN nimdow iH also tlio Hource of a Hinall tributary of tho Unipiiua river, called PaNS creek. 
 The railroad would follow the course of this Htream thmuKh tlie ("alaimoya mountains. Several 
 short bridt,'eH would bo required, with a little cutting through cavtli, and, for a few feet, through 
 a hard kind of sandstone. No sharp curves would bo necessary. Tho maximum grade would 
 be sixty-seven feet per mile, for 4.1) miles. 
 
 To cross the divide between Pass and Elk creeks, an earth cut of forty feet at the summit, 
 with an ascending grade rendered by side location eiglity-soven feet per milo for '.\.H miles, 
 and a descending grade of 211 feet per milo for O.'J of a milo, would bo requisite. IJy winding, 
 the last grade would bo reduced to 173 feet per mile, for 1.1 miles. 
 
 Klk creek would bo crossed by a bridge about ibrty feet in length. Tiio lino would then 
 follow the eastern bank of a small tributary for .I.T miles. From this point an ascending grade, 
 rendered, by location upon the eastern side of the valley, about 180 feet per mile tor four miles, 
 would conduct to thesummit of Long's bills, where an earth cutof forty feet would be advisable. 
 The descent might be made by winding towards the east for about three miles, with a grade of 
 about 214 feet per mile, but I have no doubt that a little examination would show a much 
 better pass through this lino of hills. Having reached tho valley at tho southern base of tlio 
 ridge, tho railroad would turn towards the west, and after striking the trail of my party, would 
 follow it to the North Umpqua river near Winchester. A bridge about twenty feet in length 
 over a small creek would be necessary on the way. Tiie total increase of distance over that of 
 the travelled road, produced by the above location, would be about 3.3 miles. 
 
 Tho North Ump(iua river is about eighty foot in width, and a bridge at least one hundred 
 feet in length would be required. Tho current is rapid, and tho bottom rocky. Tho stream 
 is untbrdable and bordered by low bluffs. 
 
 From Winchester the railroad could be located upon the surveyed route to Caiionville, except 
 that it would avoid the high ridge near Roseburg, by following the South Umpqua river. I wa.s 
 informed that this could be done without difficulty, with an increase of distance of about nine 
 miles. 
 
 Although no very serious obstacle exists on this route through the Umpqua valley, still some 
 expensive work and heavy grades would bo required ; and, beibro a railroad should bo actually 
 located, the route by Pass crock to Elk creek, and down that to Umpqua river, and then up tho 
 river to the vicinity of Canonville, should bo examined. It is i)robable that very easy grades 
 might be thus obtained, although tho distance would be increased, approximately, forty miles. 
 Canonville is situated at tho northern base of tho Umpqua mountains. This range is a 
 formidable obstacle to the road. The route surveyed through it follows the Umpqua canon. 
 Near the summit of the divide, elevated 1,9G3 feet above the sea level, two streams head, one of 
 which flows into Cow creek, and the other into the South Umpqua. The canon is very narrow, 
 its sides are precipitous and from one to two thousand feet in height, and heavy cutting, or 
 short tunneling, through earth and talcose slate, would be required to obtain practicable curves. 
 In ascending, the grade would be 207 feet per mile for seven miles, and in descending 192 feet 
 jier mile for two miles. The latter, however, could be considerably reduced by side location. 
 Numerous short bridges across the stream would be necessary in reaching the summit from the 
 north. 
 
 It is probable that a better railroad route through these mountains would be found by fol- 
 lowing Cow creek caiion. This stream rises south of th« range, and, after making a great 
 
nAILROAD REPOKT — HOl'TE WKST OK CASCAUK RANCiK. 
 
 f)l 
 
 benil to tho wont, flowH tliroush it to the South UmiMiuu. Tho iippioxinmti Icngtli of tlio 
 Htrcniii from its mouth to tho point where wo crooHod it, in lloj,'uo Uivor viilk-y, Ih thirty live 
 niih'H. Tho dillorcnco of eloviition betwoun tlieso jioints in ivbout 8H7 fout. Tiio iivorii;,'o 
 ascendinR grudo wouhl, therefore, bo only about twenty-flvo feet per mile. Tho incretwe <.f 
 dintance by this route over that by tho Urapiiua cnnon, would be about seventeen mili's. 
 According to tho best information which I could obtain, Cow creek cailon would require no 
 sharper curves than the Umpqua canon, and it is a cause of regret, that the want of a proper 
 CHCort rendered its examination by my party impossible. 
 
 Having reached the southern base of the mountains, by the Unipqua cailon road, tho divide 
 between Cow and Wolf creeks could be passsed, by crossing (Jow creek with a bridge about 
 thirty feet in length, two miles before reaching tho usual ford, and then gaining tho summit 
 by side location, with an ascending grade of about 143 feet per mile, for three miles. Tlio 
 descending grade to Wolf creek could be reduced, by side location, to 187 feet per mile for four 
 miles. 1 have no doubt that a lower point could be found in this divide a short distance 
 i'urther to the north, and the above grades thus be reduced. 
 
 The route examined from Wolf creek to llogue river was found to bo very unfavorable for the 
 construction of a railroad, on account of the (irave Creek hills. These hills separate Grave 
 creek from Wolf creek on the north , and from Jn up off Joe creek on the south. They are densely 
 timbered, and, ibr reasons fidly stated in tho Itinerary, they could not be thoroughly examined 
 by the party imder my command. The hills north of the creek were between 500 and 000 feet 
 in height, and those south between 800 and 'JOO feet in height, where we crossed them. I 
 bcliovo that a practicable railroad route through both ridges could bo found by a little exi)lora- 
 tion ; but, if this should not prove to be the case, the line could follow Wolf creek to Grave 
 creek, and that to Rogue river, and then turn up the latter. Very easy grades tould thus 
 be obtained t.> Evans' ferry, where wo crossed tho river, with an approximate increase of dis- 
 tance of about thirty miles. According to the best information which could be obtained, no 
 Insuperable obstacles would be encountered on the way.* 
 
 Should favorable passes through the Grave creek hills be discovercci by future examination, a 
 bridge about twenty feet long wo'dd be required at Grave creek, and another of about the same 
 length at Jump off Joe creek. From tho latter bridge, the line could either follow the trail of 
 my party to the next creek, with tho grades indicated upon profile No. 2, sheet No. 2, or, by 
 an increase of distance of about four miles, follow down Jump off Joe creek to the mouth of 
 this tributary, and then take a nearly straight course to Evans' ferry. The grades would be 
 comparatively easy, and tho work light, upon the latter route. The little tributary, where wo 
 crossed it, was about ten feet in width. 
 
 ° This ia tho route Indicated on profile No. 2, Bhcet No. 2, lor the proposed railroad lino. The nppro.\imato altitude of 
 tho mouth of Wolf crock, and of tlie [Hjint of striliiiiK it, were dcteriiuncd ill tlie followiiif; maniur. Tlie distance from 
 EvauB' ferry to the mouth of Uouue river U about ninety miles by the couriie of the stream. The altitude at Evan.s' ferry 
 is 913 feet. Hence, the average descent of the river is al)out ten feet per mde. This result is confirmed by my observa- 
 tions at Fort Lane. My camp there was about 150 feet above the river, and 1,202 feet above the level of the sea. The 
 water surface near it was, therefore, about 1,052 feet above the sea. lieing fourteen miles al«)ve Evans' ferry, it should be 
 1,057 feet, were the estimated descent of ten feet per mile correct. The slight diffcrouce of five feet between the observed 
 and computed heights, shows that this estimated descent may bo assumed for this river without luatcriul error. The mouth of 
 Wolf creek is, appro.\imately, thirty miles below Evans' ferry, and its altitude is, therefore, about C13 feet above the sea. 
 Its distance from Camp 75 A, which is elevated 1,151 feet above the sea, is about twenty-live miles. Hence, tlie descent 
 of Wolf creek is about twenty-one feet per mile. As the railroad would not come down to the level of the water, before 
 reaching a point about two miles below Cump 75 A, tho altitude of this point would bo, at tho above rate of descent, 
 about 1,100 feet. 
 
62 
 
 '^AILROAD REPORT — ROUTE WERT OF CASCADE RANGE. 
 
 At Rogue river, near Evan's ferry, abridge about 120 lectin length would be necessary. 
 The water flowed wiili a rapid current over a rocky bed. It was not generally more than three 
 feet in depth near the ferry, but deep holes rendered it dangerous to attempt to ford the stream. 
 The banks were bordered by bluffs from five to fifteen feet in height, and wood and stone for the 
 construction of a bridgo were at hand. 
 
 From this point a railroad could follow the line of survey to Fort Line, and thence up the 
 valley of Stewart creek to Camp 78 A, r ear tiie foot of the Siskiyou iaountains. An average 
 ascending grade of thirty-eight feet per mile, would be requiied. The labor of construction 
 would be light. 
 
 It is considered that a railroad from Vancouver to Camp 78 A, is practicable in the immediate 
 vicinity of the route examined by my party. The construction, for a portion of the line, 
 would be very costly, but the expense would doubthss be greatly reduced by further examinatic i. 
 From Camp 78 A to Fort Reading, hcvever, the obstacles encountered were very great, and 
 although it is highly probable that a practicable line, which can even be approximately locatpil, 
 exists, still no such route was actually surveyed. If, however, a connection could be made between 
 this camp and the route surveyed east of the Cascade Range, some of the most difficult and 
 expensive work upon that line would be avoided, and the settlements in southern Oregon be 
 benefited by the road. The lateness of the season, and the loss of the escort, rendered any 
 survey of the Cascade Range, near the head of Stewart creek, impossible; but there are very 
 good reasons for believing this conn.jction to be eminently practicable. There is a low pass 
 between Mount Pitt and Klamath ranon, by which a good emigrant road now cro/ises (he range 
 and strikes Stewart creek near Camp 78 A. Several persons well acquainted with itii character 
 informed me that, according to their judgment, the pass was very favorable for a railroad. 
 Lieutenant Crook, the quartermaster of our expedition, had travelled through it; and his opinion 
 was, that it presented -^o greater obstacles to the construction of a railroad than many other 
 portions of the route, wnich actual survey demonstrated to be practicable. This wagon road 
 crosses Lost river at the Natiiral Bridge, and the connection with the route east of the mountains 
 woul'1 be made by the railroad near this place. The approximate distance from Camp 78 A, to 
 the I^latural Bridge, is seventy miles. Of this distance about thirty-eight miles were examined 
 and found tc be practicable for a railroad, by ... ..tenant Williamson, while passing witli a 
 detached party round Lower Klamath lake. The altitude of his camp B, near the entrance of 
 the p;iS8, was 3,733 leet. That of Camp 78 A, w<ts 2,195 feet. The distance between these 
 camps is about thirty-two miies, in a direct line; but the windings of the road would probably 
 increase the travelled distance to about forty miles. Hence an approximate average rise of 
 about thirty-eight feet per mile would be necessary, without taking into account that required 
 to pass the dividiiig ridge. 
 
 The first obstacle en'-juntered on my route from Camp 78 A to Fort Reading, was the Siskiyou 
 mountains. The pass surveyed through this chain was very unfavorable for a railroad. From 
 the camp the line would follow a branch of Stewart creek for 3.7 miles, with an ascending 
 grade of 120 feet per mile. A tunnel, about six miles in length, would then be necessary. 
 The surface rock is a conglomerate sandstone. An ascending grade of about 137 feet per mile 
 would be required in the tunnel, which would pass 1,401 feet below the summit of the mountain. 
 A modification of this grade, so as to form a summit near the middle of the tunnel, might bo 
 advisable, in order to insure drainage during the excavation. For 1.1 miles from the northern, 
 and for 1.3 miles '.on the southern entrance, shafts of less than fiOO feet in depth could be sunk. 
 
RAILROAD REPORT ROnTE \VE!?T OF CASCADE RANGE. 
 
 53 
 
 For 3.6 miles between these points, every shaft woiikl necessarily he deeper than this. From 
 the southern entrance there would he a descent of 1,268 feet to Klamath river. By the route 
 travelled two small ridges were crossed in the descent. The grades given on profile No. 2, 
 sheet No. 2, cnnld he ohtained by side location near the line of survey; but it is probable that 
 the small creek which was struck soon after leaving the summit, might be followed to Cotton- 
 wood creek, and that to Klamath river. The heavy grades would be thus avoided, and the 
 approximate descending grade, from the southern entrance of the tunnel to the river, reduced 
 to about eighty ieet per mile, for about sixteen miles. 
 
 There is every probability that by further examination a pass much better than this miglit 
 he discovered through the range. In fact, I was informed that one was already known, further 
 toward the east, which was much more favorable for a railroad. The loss of the escort rendered 
 its examination impossible. 
 
 At Klamath river a bridge about 150 feet in length would be requisite. The hanks were 
 from ten to twenty feet in height. The current flowed very rapidly, over large rocks. The 
 stream was not geneiul^y more than two or three feet in depth, but there seemed to be many 
 deep holes. 
 
 From Dewitt's ferry over i'lamath river to Yreka, a distance of 17.5 miles, a railroad could 
 be located with an average asc <nding grade of tv^enty-two feet per mile. Part of the route 
 passes over a slightly undulating cunntry, but neither heavy grades, nor deep cutting, would 
 be required. 
 
 At Yreka t' e proposed railroad line diverges from my travelled route. The loss of the escort, 
 and of the quartermaster and commissary of the expedition, who was detained at Fort Jones by 
 the commanding officer of that jiost, rendered it necessary to abandon the idea of surveying the 
 Sacramento river route to Fort Reading, which promised to be favorable for the construction of 
 a railroad, and compelled me to pass over the Trinity trail, which proved, as had been antici- 
 pated, utterly impracticable for this purpose. 
 
 Before considering the proposed railroad line, the obstacles upon the Trinity trail will be 
 hriei'.y described. By reference to profile No. 1, sheet No. 2, it will be seen that three promi- 
 nent ridges were crossed upon the route, besides some hills near Shasta. The first. Little 
 Scott's mountains, can probably be turned by following down Klamath river to the mouth of 
 Scott's river, and then passing up the valley of that stream. The approximate increase of dis- 
 tance from Dewitt's ferry to Fort Jones,, over that of the travelled road, would be twenty 
 miles Heavy rock cutting through lateral spurs would undo ' tedly be necessary in many 
 places, but the construction in Scott's valley would be easy. Tl.e second ridge, Scott's moun- 
 tains, could only be passed by a tunnel, about ten miles long, jxcavated through granitic rock. 
 The tunnel would pass about 2,000 feet below the summit. In Trinity valley much heavy 
 stone cutting and numerous bridges would render the construction very expensive. The third 
 ridge, Trinity mountains, would require a tunnel through granitic rock about four miles in 
 length, passing 2,000 feet below the summit. The hills near Shasta could probably be turned 
 by following Clear creek to the Sacramento river ; but the cost of the two tunnels in the mining 
 region, where the price of labor is very high, would he too enormous to estimate. 
 
 Another route from Yreka to Fort Reading, which is unquestionably practicable for a rail- 
 road, is to follow an easterly course until a junction is eF'-jted with our line of survey east of 
 the Cascade Range, and then to follow that route to the Fort. In 1852, Lieutenant Williamson 
 explored the country which the line of connection would traverse, and found it a nearly level 
 
riff 
 
 FTfP 
 
 64 
 
 RAILROAD REPORT — ROUTE WEST OF CASCADE RANGE. 
 
 plateau, wliich would present no serious obstacle to the construction of the road. This route 
 would be very circuitous^ however, making the distance from Yreka to the Fort between 250 and 
 300 miles, while, in a right line, it is only about 90 miles. 
 
 It is believed that this detour could be avoided by striking the head-waters of the Sacramento 
 river west of Shasta Butte, and then following the course of the stream to Fort Reading. I was 
 prevented, for the reasons above stated, from surveying this line ; but a party of gentlemen 
 from Shasta recently examined it with reference to the constriiction of a wagon road, and made 
 a favorable report,* estimating the expense at $50,000. I had a personal interview with one 
 of these gentlemen. He stated, that, although some sharp curves and deep cuts would be 
 necessary, he had no doubt that a railroad could be constructed upon the route at a reasonable 
 expense. 
 
 * It haa been deemed advisable to sr.'iijoia tbU report in full as it appeared in the Vreka Union of Noveinber 3, 1855. 
 
 lyagon road from Yreka to S^utsta. 
 
 Yreka, October 20, 1855. 
 
 We, the undersigned, who left Sliasta on the 25th instant for the purpose of examining the route for a wagon road to Yreka, 
 via the Sacramento riror, arrived at this place on Sunday morning last. 
 
 T!ie entire length of the road will probauly reach one hundred and ten miles. The general course is directly north, and no 
 deflections from a straight line occur, except in those places where the short bends of the river nmst be followed. All the 
 difliculiics to be overcome, and work necessary to render the entire I'outo practicable for heavily loaded wagons, lies between 
 Spring creek and the Soda spring, a distance of about sixty-nine miles. More or less grading, bridging, etc., will be necessary 
 upon about fifty miles of this distance. The renmining fourteen is taken up by level plateaus from a half to live miles in length, 
 many of them being tine arable land, with a deep, rich soil. 
 
 The most important obstacles to be overcome are two long ascents. The first is encountered immediately after crossing 
 Sugar Loaf creek, twenty-five miles from Shasta, and the other at Potato hill, nine miles further on. Both these can be passed 
 without much diflicully by taking a circuitous course around the bill, and attaining the summit by a succession of easy gra- 
 dients, alternating with occasional short benches, made level to relievo the ascent. With the exception r i" these two hills, and 
 three or four minor ones, the whole road can be made comparatively level. 
 
 It is our opinion that about thirty miles will require heavy excavation. "^ .w oceurs at various points dong the entire distance 
 from Spring creek to the Soda spring. The points we have referred iv are where the road is throvn upon those portions of 
 the river bank which are steep. Those places are generally from half a mile to a mile in length, and between them we have 
 level flats or slightly undulating ridges, where but little work would be necessary, except to bridge the creeks which are gen- 
 erally met with at tliofie points. 
 
 Fine timber grows near at ht !id for all the wood work which will be needed, and two saw mills are already constructed, the 
 one at Spring creek, and the other at Squaw creek. Between Pistol and Sugar Loaf creeks more or less blasting will bo 
 rcipiired upon two miles of the route, none of which, however, is of a serious character. 
 
 Beyond the Soda springs all obstacles vanish. All that will be required is tu clear the way through a level, timbered country 
 as far as the huckleberry patch at the head of Shasta valley; from thence into Yreka an excellep^ wneon road already exists. 
 More work will be necessary to construct a wngon road by this route than wos at first anticipated by us; but on the other hand 
 we are satisfied that it is the most direct course, and that when the road is once built, it will be tho easiest and most substantial 
 mountain route in California. Following, as it does, the courEo of a river until it arrives at its source, it then enters a level 
 plain, and no dividing ridges are to be crossed separating stream from stream, us is the case with nearly all the wagon roads 
 wliich have been constructed in like cases. 
 
 It will probably be expected that wo should make some rough estimate of the cost of this route. It is with extreme reluc- 
 tance that we enter upim any such calculation, as we are aware, that in making our estimate of the distance, we are liable, in 
 man; instances, to be grossly deceived ; for in many places where tho trail wo were travelling upou passes over the hills, the 
 road would continue level aloug the bank of the river. 
 
 We are of opinion, however, that our errors in this respect arc on the right side, and that the route of the road will prove 
 when marked out and measured, to be considerably shorter than tho distances given by us. We believe that the sum of fifty 
 thousand dollars, or near that amount, will bo reouired to perform the grading and erect the numerous bridges necessary to 
 construct a good, easily travelled, and substantial wagon road, up tho i^aoramento river, from Shasta to Yreka. A recapitulation 
 of the numerous creeks, the diM'erent points to bo encountered, and the various distances, we consider unnecessary to be here 
 stated, as those items would reuder our report too lengthy, and, from our limited means of observation, would not possess a 
 Buflicient degree of exactness 
 
 It is our c.tijdid opinion that this undertaking cannot bu at once accomplished by private contributions. An attempt to 
 do HI would, wo Tear, result in disappointment, and perhaps a failure of (he uhole enterprizo. We would, therefore, suggest 
 
 I 
 
HAILEOAD REPORT — ROUTE WEST OF CASCADE RANGE. 
 
 55 
 
 It is proper to state why the altitude of the divide Letween Sacramento and Shasta rivers has 
 been assumed at 3,500 feet, on profile No. 2, sheet No. 2, upon which the Sacramento river 
 route is indicated for the proposed railroad line. This is only an approximation to the trutli ; 
 but I believe it worthy of some reliance for the following reasons. It will be noticed in the 
 report upon the wagon road from Yreka to Shasta, contained in the last note, that this passage 
 occurs: " Following, as it (the pro osed wagon road) does, the course of a river (the Sacra- 
 mento) until it arrives at its source, it then enters a level plain, and no dividing ridges are to 
 be crossed separating stream from stream, as is the case with nearly all the wagon roads which 
 have been constructed in like cases." On profile No. 1, sheet No. 2, representing the surveyed 
 line, it will be seen that Shasta Butte rises from a natural eminence, ^\ hich extends many miles 
 both north and south of the mountain. The greatest altitude upon this pedestal of the Butte, 
 where we crossed it, is, without taking into account isolated ridges, 3,457 feet. These L.vo 
 facts have led me to assume an altitude of 3,500 feet for the divide. This altitude gives an 
 average descent of more than forty feet per mile to Shasta river, and to the Sacramento river 
 above Johnson's ferry ; descents, which, in my opinion, are very much greater than the 
 appearances of the streams justify. Any less altitude would, of course, render the route more 
 favorable to the construction of a railroad. 
 
 As soon as the open portion of the Sacramento valley should be gained, there would be no 
 furtlier difficulty in reaching Fort Reading with easy grades. The total distance from Yreka 
 to the Fort, by this route, is 120 miles. 
 
 tbat a stock company be formed, and a charter applied for at the next eesaion of the legislature. This plan will iDsure the 
 early completion of an enterprize which will ^pen an exhaustless mining region, now nearly untouched, an^ plaoo the town of 
 Yreka, and the whole northern portion of the State, now bo didicult of access even by pack tiuius, within five or six days' travel, 
 by loadud wagons, of the different depots in Sacramento valley. 
 
 E. C. GILLETTE. 
 A. SKILLMAN. 
 W. W. TKACY. 
 JOHN J. TOMLINHON. 
 ^VM. A. MIX. 
 ; . R. A. Mcf'ABE. 
 
 • * _■ M. MIICIIELL. 
 
 . •" J. TYSON. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 NARKATffE AND ITINERARY-ROUTE OF THE MAIN COMMAND. 
 
 PhBP.VIIATJONS. — OROAXIZATION and outfit Of PARTY. — SlISL'N VALLEV— PlTOS CHEKK. — CACHE CREEK. — .SaCKAMENTO RIVER. — 
 
 Feather river. —.Maiivsviu.e.—.Mirace. — I)ic(;e[i i.vdians. — Their hits — Their moue of oamiili.vo.— Grizzly dears — Two 
 
 ROUTES examined FROM A.NTEl.OI'E CREEK TO FORT READING. — FoRT READINCi. — OFFICERS THERE — ThE ESCORT — BAROMETER LEFT 
 WITH PR. HAMMOND. — GulDE EMPLOYED.— START.— l)lSA(iRKEABI.E CAMP. — McCuMIIER'S FL.\T. — NoP'.r.'S PASS.— ViEW FROM SUMMIT. — 
 
 Lost creek. — Cold. — Indian bihns. — Canoe creek — Pumice-stone. — Pedleiial of trap bojk. — Accident to chronometers. — 
 Difficult travellino. — Precipice. — Prairie with springs. — Pit river Indians. — Their habits — Their nowa and arrows. — 
 Indian trail. — Larc.e river oushinci fro.m the rocks — E.\ploration by lieut. Williamson. — Pit river. — Likdt. Sheridan. — 
 E.xplohation of lower caSon of pit river. — Lieut, hood's return. — Stoneman's ridok. — Route between the oaSons. — Fire in 
 CAMP. — Upper canon of pit river. — Cart broken. — Indians. — Their mode of kindling a fire. — Their love of tobacco. — Their 
 ornaments. — Lieut. Williamson's notes on the caSon. — Grass valley. — Pits dug by Indians. — E.\ploration in advance by 
 
 LiP.BT. WILLIAMSON. — SPRINO BRANCH. — HaKEI) ANTELOPe's HEAD. — SaC.E PLAIN. — WrIGHT LAKE.^— RhETT LAKE. — EMIGRANT ROAD. — 
 
 Lost river. — Xo fuel. — Party from vreka. — Division of the party. — Natural bridge. — Rattlesnake under a blanket. — 
 
 TpPER KLAMATH LAKE — INDIAN SIGNS — SNAKKS — FiRE IN CAMP. — ARRIVAL OF LIEUT. WILLIAMSON. — RoUTK NEAR EASTERN SHORE 
 OF LAKE. — 15, LD EAGLE3. — ACCIDENT. — KlAMATH UIVER. — CaSoN. — FuG. — KlAMATH « .> ilSII. — INDIANS. — ThEIR RANCIIERIA9. — 
 
 Their canoes. — Their guaves, — Grave of a chief — Piles or btones. — lNTEm;iUR.iK with the Indians. — Their horses. — 
 Partial vocabulary of their language. — Crossing of klamath river — I.)iviue between klamath marsh and des chutes 
 river. — Water holes. — Pumice. — Des chutej river. — Two tra '.s. — Trout — Old wagon trail. — Difficulty in taking 
 astronomical observations. — Sickness — Division op party. — Ice in camp. — Ingenious method of repairing chronometer. — 
 Gold skekeis prom cmpqua valley. — Orders from lieut. Williamson. — Branch of pes chutes river. — Rafting of stream. — 
 Entrance Oi great caSon. — Rapid. — Junction with lieut. williamsoi's party. — Rain. — Snow peaks is sight. — Wuy-CHua 
 CREEK. — Camp near "forks of the Indian trail." — Berries. — Division of Tur, i arty. — Sketch op sunsEQUENx opkbatioks. 
 
 On May 5th, .^855, Lieut. Williamson, •with the civilian assistants and myself, sailed from 
 New York, and on May 30 arrived at San Francisco. Here he organized the surveying party. 
 On July 9, 1855, the command •was in depot camp, near Benicia, and ready to commence field 
 ■work on the following day. 
 
 The party consisted of Lieut. R. S. Williamson, Topographical Engineers, in charge of the 
 expedition, with myself for his principal assistant ; Dr. J. S. Newherry, geologist and botanist, 
 Mr. H. C. Fillebrown, assistant engineer; Dr. E. Sterling, pliysicia;, and naturalist; Mr. 
 C. D. Anderson, computer; and Mr. John Young, draughtsman. There ^^ lio also eighteen men, 
 under the immediate supervision of Mr. Charles Coleman, the pack master. 
 
 As much of the survey was tobe made in a mountainous, unexplored region, Lieut. Williara- 
 Bon decided to transport all the supplies by a pack train. The only vehicle was a light 
 two-wheeled cart, designed solely to carry the instruments. These consisted of two Gambey 
 sextants, two artificial horizons, four box chronometers, three prismatic compasses, one sur- 
 veyor's chain and pins, one odometer, four Green's cistern barometers, with a case of extra 
 unfilled tubes, four thermometers, two reconnoitring glasses, one aneroid barometer, and 
 several smaller instruments. 
 
 July 10. — We left camp about noon. The road, at first, led over low rolling hills to tho 
 marshy edge of Suisun bay. After following this for a short distance, it passed over a nearly 
 level country, to a small creek with slightly brackish water. It then crossed n level plain, 
 bordered by low hills and dotted with a few oaks, to Suisun creek, where we encamped. 
 Much of the soil near the road to-day was rich and under cultivation. 
 
 
 -^ 
 
NAUKATIVK AND ITINKRAKY — SACRAMENTO VALLEY. 
 
 57 
 
 July 11. — The road was at first slightly hilly, and bordered by a few scattered oaks. It theu 
 crossed a level jdain, bare of trees, where the heat was very oppressive. We found a little 
 lake on this plain, and the dry beds of two small streams, whicli were evidently tributaries in 
 the rainy season. Towards the end of t'.e day's march, the country again became undulating. 
 We encamped on a small creek, near a collection of two or three houses called Vacaville. 
 
 Juli/ 12. — To-day, we travelled among the low foot hills of the Coast Range to Putos creek, 
 where there wert several fine oak, peach, and fig trees, and a vineyard. The hills could be 
 avoided by keeping further towards the east. Lieut. Williamson made the following note 
 upon Putos creek, in his joiirnal : " Putos creek, at the most favorable point, requires a bridge 
 130 feet in length. The bed of the stream is now 20 feet below the banks, and the water 
 less than a foot deep. In the winter and spring, the banks are nearly reached by the water. 
 The stream, I am informed, was named after a tribe of Indians whicli lived upon its banks, and 
 which were known to the Spaniards as the Putos Indians ; the word ' putos', being masculine, 
 means a lazy, worthless vagabond. Hence the creek was called Rio de los Putos. It is, how- 
 ever, generally called Puta creek, and sometimes Pewter creek." 
 
 The road next crossed a dry, dusty plain, several miles in width, where every breath of air 
 felt like the blast of a furnace, so intense was the heat. We then entered a fine oak forest, 
 whicli skirted the banks of Cache creek. We encamped at the lower ford of this creek, 
 after having crossed at the upper. The following extract is from Lieut. Williamson's journal. 
 
 " This stream has, in many places, a bottom as much as a half mile wide. The width of 
 the stream itself, at the narrowest part I saw near the upper crossing, was, I should think, 
 about 300 yards. At the lower crossing, it was much narrower, being only about 100 yards 
 wide, with banks 30 feet high. I am told that in times of freshet it rises so much as to over- 
 flow these banks." 
 
 July 13. — Early this morning, we reached the Sacramento river at Knight's rancho, and, 
 finding that the most direct road to Marysville was impassable on account of mire, followed 
 down the river to Fremont. Here we crossed by a ferry. Tlie water was low, the river being 
 only about 250 yards in width. At season of high water it is at least 100 yards wider, and 
 during freshets it sometimes overflows its banks for miles. It is bordered by a dense growth 
 of willows, sycamores and oaks. We followed up Feather river for about 8.5 miles, and 
 encamped near Nicholas. The road to-day was level, and often led through noble forests of 
 oak. There was little or uo underbrush, and the country resembled a grand old park»in 
 appearance. Many large squirrels were seen among the trees. 
 
 July 14. — For a few miles this morning, the road continued to be bordered by the noble oak 
 forest. The extreme shortness of their trunks gave the trees the strange appearance of having 
 been pressed down into the ground. On leaving the forest, we travelled over a dry, dusty 
 plain, which continued to Marysville, a fine little city, containing several brick stores 
 and houses, and presenting a very thriving appearance. It is situated rear the junction 
 of the Yuba and Feather rivers. We encamped opposite it, on the former stream, which 
 was turbid from the gold washing carried on near its sources. The sediment deposited by 
 it is having a marked effect upon the navigation of Feather river. 
 
 July 15. — To-day we forded the Yuba river, and after passing through Marysville crossed 
 Feather river by a good wooden bridge. The first stream was about 200, and the second 250 
 feet in width, and both were bordered by low bluffs. Lieutenant Williamson decided to make a 
 8X 
 
w 
 
 08 
 
 NAIJR.VI'TVE ANn ITINKRAHY — SACRAMKNTO VALLEY. 
 
 short march to-tlay, aa it was necessary to repair the pack saddles. Wo accordingly travelled 
 only 5.8 miles, throuj:;!! a level, dusty country, and encamped on Feather river. 
 
 JuJij 10. — After travellin;; over a very dusty, level road bordered hy scattered oaks, we 
 encamped at Hamilton. The heat was very oppressive during the day. 
 
 July 17. — The road to-day left Feather river, and struck across a dry, dusty plain, to Niel's 
 rancho, on liiitte creek. The phenomenon of mirage was very distinctly seen during tlie 
 early part of the march. We crossed Butte creek and Little Butte creek, about three miles Iwyond 
 it, and encamped on Chico creek. The country was flat and uninteresting. Near camp was 
 a rancheria of Digger Indians. Their huts were partly excavated in the ground, and roofed 
 over with sticks plastered with mud. When we visited them, at about sunset, the women were 
 sitting on top of their houses, engaged in shelling out grain which they had gleaned from the 
 neighboring fields. The men, nearly naked, were congregated in a large hut, gambling. A few 
 burning sticks in the centre of the group threw a flickering light over the scene. The game was 
 played by four men, who were seated in pairs, on opposite sides of the fire, while the background 
 was filled up with eager spectators. Before each party was a pile of straw. One couple continually 
 twisted up, and threw into the air, wisps of this straw, managing at the same time to conceal 
 in it two pieces of white wood or bone. The other couple anxiously watched their movements, 
 keeping up a monotonous, guttural cry. Whenever they thought they had detected the locality 
 of the sticks, they clapped their hands violently, and their rivals immediately shook open the 
 suspected wisp. If the sticks were there, the successful guessers received them, and began in 
 their turn to throw them up ; if not, the first couple continued. The excitement occasioned 
 by this simple game was intense. The perspiration poured in streams down the naked bodies 
 of the players, and their eyes glared in the dim fire-light like those of demons. Their voices 
 were so hoarse as to be hardly articulate, and yet they kept on, without a moment's cessation. 
 They might well be excited, for, as I was informed, they stake everything, even their women 
 and children, on the result of the game. 
 
 July 18. — To-day the road lay mostly over dusty plains, destitute of timl)er. Dry gullies, 
 which in the rainy season are undoubtedly the beds of streams of considerable size, were 
 numerous. We encamped on Deer creek. During the evening quite an excitement was 
 created by the report that a grizzly bear was in the bushes near us ; but the monster proved to 
 be only a burnt log. Grizzly bears are sometimes found in this part of the valley. 
 
 ^uly 19. — We travelled over a slightly undulating country to Antelope creek, where we 
 encamped. The road crossed several places where there were sudden descents, of about twenty 
 feet, from a plateau to a lower level; and, in distances varying from a few yards to half a 
 mile, corresponding ascents again. These places did not resemble the beds of creeks. There 
 was but little timber near the road during most of the day's march. 
 
 July 20. — This morning Lieut. Williamson gave me instructions to cross the Sacramento 
 river, at Red Blutis, with the instrument cart, and follow the ordinary route to Fort Reading; 
 while he proceeded with the main party to examine the eastern bank. This I did, without any 
 incident worthy of note. The country, which was slightly undulating, and occasionally timbered, 
 differed in no important particulars from the portion of the valley traversed during the last few 
 days by the main party. The following description of Lieut. Williamson's route to the Fort 
 is compiled from his note book. 
 
 *' Aiter ibUowing a road over the hills, for about ten miles, this morning, we discovered that 
 it led to a pinery among the mountains. We, therefore, turned nearly at right angles to our 
 
NAUKATIVE AND ITIN'KUAUY — FORT UKADINO. 
 
 59 
 
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 Here 
 
 any 
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 tew 
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 that 
 our 
 
 former course, and struck across tlie liills to Beaver creek, which we i'ound flowinj;; in a small 
 cailon. We then crossed a rocky plain to Liver creek, where wo encamped. The hills may he 
 avoided hy keeping nearer the hank of the Sacramento. 
 
 "July 21. — As far as Battle creek we found the road jjretty rou<:;h . At first it crossed a ridj^c, ' 
 which might he avoided, with some rock cutting, hy passing around the hluff. The rest of the 
 road to the Fort was good, a few short, steep slopes excepted." 
 
 Fort Reading is situated on the northern hank of Cow creek, a little stream which discharges 
 itself into the Sacramento, about a mile and a half helow the post. There are dry, elevated plains 
 northwest, and a steep hluflf conducting to a higher plateau, oast of the Fort. Tiie buildings are 
 mostly made of adobes; hut some are of wood. Tiie locality is unhealthy in the summer, ou 
 account of the prevalence of fever and ague. 
 
 We were courteously received and hospitably entertained hy ]\I(ijor F. 0. Wyse, 3d artillery, 
 and the other officers stationed at the i)ost. The escort here joined us. It consisted of Lieut. 
 IL Gr. Gibson, 3d artillery ; Lieut. George Crook, 4th infantry, commissary and quartermaster 
 of the expedition ; Lieut. J. B. Hood, 2d cavalry ; and 100 men, twenty being dragoons, and 
 the remainder artillery and infantry soldiers. Mr. J. Daniels was quartermaster's clerk, and 
 Mr. J. B. Vinton pack master of the escort. 
 
 Various causes of delay ])rcvented Lieut. Williamson from continuing the survey until the 
 twenty-eighth of July. Dr. J. F. Hammond, United States army, the surgeon of the Fort, 
 very kindly volunieered to iuive a series of barometric observations taken at the post, during 
 the continuance of the field work. Lieut. Williamson accordingly leit one of the barometers 
 in his charge. His observations proved of very great value in the subsequent computation of 
 altitudes upon the route, as is fully explained in the chapter of this report devoted to that 
 subject. 
 
 At the recommendation of Major Reading, Lieut. William.«oa employed as guide and scout 
 an old hunter, named IJartee, but usually known as "Old Red." He proved a valuable ad- 
 dition to the party. 
 
 Jidy 28. — To-day we left Fort Reading, and began our journey towards the wild region east 
 of the western chain of the Sierra Nevada. Lieut. Crook, with the foot soldiers and the escort 
 train, had left Fort Reading two days before our departure, and encamped at McCumber's 
 Flat, distant 30 miles from the post. Lieut. Williamson, being detained by necessary busineis, 
 sent forward his train this morning, and started about noon to follow it with his assistants, ac- 
 companied for a short distance by Dr. Hammond. We crossed Cow creek at a good ford, where 
 the stream was about 50 feet in width, and then abruptly ascended to a level i)lateau, elevated 
 about 200 feet above the Fort. We travelled 3.5 miles over this plain to the crossing of Bear 
 creek, a branch about 30 feet in width : and then began a gradual ascent. The road soon 
 entered a thick jiine and oak forest, varied by occasional clumps of manzanita bushes. Grizzly 
 bears are often found in this vicinity. Our train had taken a wrong road, and we were com- 
 pelled, in consequence, to encamp without blankets or cooking utensils, near the small rancho 
 of Mr. Asbury, A rather cold and uncomfortable night was spent by most of us. 
 
 Juh/2'J. — To-day w- started early, and continued our course through a thick pine and fir 
 forest, many trees of which bore long, graceful bunches of black and light colored mosses, with 
 an occasional bough of misletoe. We crossed two small streams, the first, Ash creek, about 
 ten feet, and the second, Mill creek, about twenty feet in width. The water of the latter was 
 very cold, its temperature being 47° Fahrenheit, while at of the air was 71>° Fahrenheit. 
 
fiO 
 
 NARUATIVK AND ITINERARY — NOIILK'8 PASS. 
 
 At toth creeks saw mills were in operation. The ascent to-day was much steeper than that of 
 yesterday. We reached Lieutenant Crook's camp at McCumber's Flat, on Battle creek, at about 
 1 p. m., and our niissing train arrived in the course of the afternoon. We had gained an eleva- 
 tion of about 3, GOO feet above Fort Reading, and the clear, cool air of the mountains was 
 delightful, when compared with the burning, sickly miasma which we had left behind. The 
 seeds of intermittent fever, however, implanted while passing through the Sacramento valley, 
 remained, and a large majority of the party suffered from this disease before the end of the 
 survey. 
 
 McCumber's Flat is a small opening, thickly carpeted with grass, and surrounded by a dense 
 pine and fir forest. Battle creek, after passing through it, disappears among the trees, and 
 with a sullen roar struggles furiously down its rooky bed. A more pleasant camping place 
 could hardly be desired. 
 
 July 30. — To-day, we crossed the western chain of the Sierra Nevada, by Nob'e's Pass. The 
 road, which was very steep, rocky, and bordered by pine timber, followed up a branch of Battle 
 creek. In some places it was difficult to drag even the liglit instrument cart up the precipitous 
 ridges. After leaving the creek, a very steep rise conducted to a long, gently ascending slope, 
 bare of trees, but covered with a dense growth of manzanita bushes. This slope led to the 
 divide, which was perceptible, although by no means steep. Its elevation above the sea was 
 6,260 feet. A fine view was obtained from a point near the road. Lassen's Butte with its 
 snowy crest, rose proudly above the surrounding mountains on the south. Far distant to the 
 westward was a long line of peaks, belonging t^ the Coast Range, while at our feet lay the 
 Sacramento valley. But we turned gladly from its parched plains to scan the rough country 
 towards the east, which we were next to traverse. The course of Pit river, as it came from the 
 dim distance, and wound out of sight among the mountains on the north, could be indistinctly 
 traced ; while dark timbered ridges, with occasional plains, filled up the rest of the picture. 
 
 The descent from the summit was at first gentle, but soon became precipitous. The In- 
 dians had recently set fire to the woods, and the smoke, mingling with the clouds of dust 
 raised by our animals, ^was stifling. Near the foot of the ridge, we struck a small stream about 
 fifteen feet in width, called Lost creek. After leaving the road and following down this creek 
 about half a mile, we encamped with good grass and water. The forest was more open on the 
 eastern than on the western slope of the mountains, and it was now almost entirely composed of 
 pine. A deer had been killed on the march, and we had our first venison to-night. 
 
 July 31. — This morning, at half past five o'clock, the thermometer indicated 40° Fahrenheit, 
 a great change in temperature from the Sacramento valley, where it had generally stood at 
 about 65° Fahrenheit at this hour. We retraced our steps to the emigrant road, and after bidding 
 farewell to Dr. Hammond, who returned to Fort Reading, followed it through an open and 
 nearly level valley to the next stream, which was about twenty feet in width and called Hat 
 creek. Both this and Lost creek are branches of Canoe creek. After crossing the stream, we 
 left the road, and followed down the valley, without any trail. Light smoke, rising from the 
 summits of the neighboring hills, informed us that our advance was discovered by the watchful 
 savages, although we had seen none of them as yet. The route was go^^l at first, although 
 somewhat obstructed by manzanita bushes, which delayed the little cart. As we advanced, 
 however, we had to pass several rocky ledges. The creek at length divided into two channels, 
 enclosing a small island. This we crossed, and following the western side of the stream soon 
 came to where it canoned through a ledge, nearly vertical on one side, and gently sloping on 
 
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NAKRATIVK AND ITINERAUY — r ^'Ci: CRKEK VALLEY. 
 
 tlie otlier. Crossing this with difficulty, wo again struck the stream, and re-crossed it over 
 (mother island to the eastern bank. The soil became light, like ashes, and our animals sank 
 over the fetlock at every step. The hills soon closed in upon the creek, and wo encamped with 
 good water and grass. Lieutenant Williamson sent the guide forward to examine the route 
 for a short distance in advance. On his return he reported it very rocky and destitute of grass. 
 A barometer was broken to-day by the jolting of the cart. 
 
 August 1. — This morning we entered a rocky pedregal of scoriaceous trap, which taxed our 
 patience to the utmost. It was difficult to advance wi*I. the mides, but far more so with the 
 cart. Wo were forced to make long halts before a way could be found, and then to (ilmost carry 
 the vehicle along by hand. Once it overturned, and the shock rendered the chronometers 
 useless for the determination of longitude for the rest of the survey. Instead of improving, the 
 road became worse ; and, at length, we turned towards the timbered hills which bounded it on 
 the east, and travelled among them for a short distance with more ease. Before long, however, we 
 found ourselves on the summit of a j)recipice of trap rock, at least one hundred feet in height, 
 which conducted to the lava field again. The cart was let down by hand ; and we toiled on, 
 near the ledge which continued to bound the valley, until we suddenly came to a beautiful, 
 grassy spot, intersected by numerous brooks. Here we encamped, after a most laborious 
 march, having advanced only about 4.5 miles on our journey. A branch of the stream gushed 
 from the face of the precipice near our camp, and, after falling about twenty or thirty feet 
 vertically, united with another which flowed at the base of the ledge. The following note 
 upon these springs I extract from Lieut. Williamson's journal. 
 
 " A portion of the water of the brooks gushed from a spring in the mountain side. It is 
 highly probable that the main part comes from a canon in the hills to the northeast, but of 
 this we have no positive proof. About a quarter of a mile below camp, all the streams, after 
 uniting in one, disappear entirely, ilowing into chasms in the scoriaceous trap. Whether it 
 re-appears, or not, is not known. The united stream is about twenty feet wide, and belly-deep 
 to the mules." 
 
 While examining the vicinity of camp with one of the party, I came suddenly upon an 
 Indian, evidently reconnoitring, llo was nea''ly naked, and armed with bow and arrows. 
 With considerable diffic ilty we prevailed upon him to enter camp. After throwing him into 
 paroxysms of delight by the sight of his ugly countenance in a small mirror, we sent him on 
 his way rejoicing, appareled in a white shirt, and gnawing a huge piece of salt pork. 
 
 August 2. — This morning our visitor returned with about tweaty of his nearly naked friends, all 
 of whom gave us to understand that they were enduring agonies of hunger. After giving them 
 food, we left the miserable wretches collecting tlie offal which remained near the cook's fire. 
 The Pit river Indians are very treacherous and bloody in their dispositions and disgusting in 
 their habits. They are armed with bows and arrows, which they make with great skill. The 
 bows are sticks of soft wood, about three feet in length, backed with deer sinew. The bow 
 string also is of sinew. The arrows are made in three parts. The head is generally of 
 obsidian, which abounds in portions of the valley. It is carefully shaped into the usual barbed 
 form, and lushed by deer tinew to one end of a small stick of hard wood about ten inches long. 
 The other end of the stick is inserted into the extremity of a reed and also lashed with sinew. 
 The reed is tipped with feathers, attached by the same kind of fastening. This weapon 
 inflicts a dangerous injury ; as the blood immediately softens the sinew, and, on attempting to 
 extract the arrow, the reed separates from the hard wood stick, and that from the arrow head, 
 
G2 
 
 NAUUATIVK AND ITINKUAUY — I'lT UIVKU VAM>KY, 
 
 which thus rcmainR nt the bottom of the wound. It \h said that, theso Htivages Hometitncs ixiiHon 
 their arrows by cx|i0Hing a i)ii!co of liver to tho rcpeatod bitcH of a rattloHiiivko, and, aftor bury- 
 ing it for a short timo, Hinoiuiiig tiiu point with tliu luilf decoiupoNed inass. 
 
 For about five miles to-day, the pedregal continued to bo as rough as it was yesterday, and wo 
 could advance only with great dilHculty. At length, however, we entered a pine forest, and 
 soon after struck an Indian trail, which rendered travelling very much easier. It conducted us 
 to the bauk of Canoe creek, which we I'ound Uowing through a fine, grassy meadow. Again 
 entering the forest, and continuing our course for a few miles further, we discovered a second 
 fine valley, carpeted with grass and clovor. Near the northern side of it ilowed a tributary of 
 Cftnoo creek, at least five times the size of the main stream. We encamped near the junction 
 of these creeks, with an abundant supply of wood, water, and grass. 
 
 August 3. — Some little doubt had arisen whether the largo tributary on which we wore en- 
 camped was not Pit river, and Lieut. Williamson determined to leave the main party in camp 
 to-day, and go himself, with the dragoons, to explore. Ho returned about noon, having fol- 
 lowed down Canoe creek to whore it discharged into Pit river. It flowed between precipitous 
 banks, with many ca,scadcs and rapids. At its mouth it was eighty or ninety feet in width. 
 It received no important tributary below our camp, except a branch from Lake Freaner, which 
 flowed into it over a trap dike about fifteen feet in height. 
 
 In the afternoon, Lieut. Williamson sent one of the party to follow up the largo tributary of 
 Canoe creek. On his return, the man reported tliat, about two miles above camp, the water 
 gushed furiously from some fifteen crevices in the rocks, thus forming brooks, which united and 
 formed the stream. He walked entirely round its sources, and returned dry shod on the bank 
 opposite the one on which he started. 
 
 August 4. — This uiorning the party separated. Lieut. Williamson started with the dra- 
 goons, to explore the lower canon of Pit river, giving me directions to advance, with tlie main 
 party, to a point on the river near the mouth of Canoe creek. After leaving camp, we soon 
 found ourselves among thick ])ine timber and underbrush, which greatly delayed the cart, and 
 rendered it necessary to carry most of the instruments by hand. In some places the trail fol- 
 lowed along the side of steep hills, and several men were constantly employed in preventing 
 the vehicle from overturning. At length, in attempting to run over a manzanita bush in one 
 of these places, it turned completely over ; so that the mule lay on his back, struggling violently 
 in the thick underbrush. After crossing one smaller branch, we finally succeeded in reaching 
 a fine, grassy meadow on the bank of Pit river, about two miles above the mouth of Canoe 
 creek. Here we encamped. 
 
 Lieut. P. H. Sheridan, 4th infantry, overtook the party to-day, with orders to relievo 
 Lieut. Hood, who was instructed to return to the eastern States and join his regiment without 
 delay. 
 
 The following extract from Lieut. Williamson's journal shows the result of his exploration 
 to-day. 
 
 "Wo followed nearly the same trail as yesterday for about five miles, and then took a trail 
 running east, which led to Stoneman's ridge. I went to the highest point, and obtained 
 bearings to Mount Shasta, Lassen's Butte, and other peaks. I then ordered Bartee to follow 
 the ridge towards the south until he found a low depression, and then to endeavor to find a 
 good route from it to the river near Canoe creek. This he did. I next went to the entrance of 
 the canon. We found it impossible to go through it on foot, on account of the precipitous 
 
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NARRATIVE AND ITIKERARY PIT RIVER VALLEY. 
 
 63 
 
 sidea, which came down abruptly into the water. The north side was black rock, inclined 
 about 45°. The south side was infusorial earth, inclined from the horizon 60° or more. Not 
 being able to follow the summit of the precipice, I returned down the river to camp, near the 
 mouth of Canoe freek." 
 
 August 5. — Lieut. Hood started this morning with a small escort, on his return to Fort Reading, 
 much to the regret of the whole party. Lieut. Williamson, with the dragoons, went to follow 
 the river bluff, directing me to take the train through the pass found yesterday by Rartee. 
 The trail led over several small, rocky hills, heavily timbered with pine. After passing along 
 the wef.tern foot of Stoneman's ridge for nearly tvo miles, we crossed it at a low point, and 
 followed down a gjntle slope to the river. The soil was mostly light volcanic ashes, but the 
 trail was occasionally rocky. After riding a short distance near the stream, which was deep 
 and sluggish, we passed the spot where Fall river, after breaking in cascades and. rapids over 
 a bluff about 30 feet iu height, plunges into Pit river. About half a mile further on, we found 
 Lieut. Williamson encamped near a small brook, a tributary of Pit river. Its water was much 
 colder than that of the river, which had a marshy tasle. Wood and grass abounded in the 
 vicinity. Lieut. Williamson had succeeded in following the river bluff. Where the stream 
 emerged from the mountains, and for about a mile above, iie found the banks about 150 feet in 
 height, and very precipitous. Tlie canon was so narrov/ at its mouth that lie could not enter 
 it on foot. 
 
 After reaching camp, I re-filled two barometers which liad been broken. During the night 
 a mule was stolen by the Indians. 
 
 August 6. — Tliis morning, to avoid a bend, Lieut, Williamson left the river and struck 
 across towards the upper canon. At first, the trail passed through pine timber, but it soon 
 entered a nearly level prairie, in some places rocky, and in otliers dusty. There were numerous 
 gopher holes in it, which were dug so near the surface that our animals often broke through 
 into them. After reaching the river again, the trail became quite rocky, and we were compelled 
 to cross numerous sloughs, as well as the main stream twice. At length we encamped near the 
 entrance of the upper canon. A fire soon broke out among the dry grass and bushes, which was 
 extinguished, with difficulty, by the united exertions of the whole command. Another barometer 
 was broken and re-filled to-day. At night tlie Indians stole a mule, but it was traced, Ibuud 
 tied in one of tlieir ranclierias, and recovered by our packers. 
 
 August 7. — To-day Lieut. Williamson ibllowed along the northern edge of tlie caiion^ direct- 
 ing mo to take the route among the hills with the main party. On leaving camp, we crossed 
 the river at a shallow but very rocky ford, and immediately climbed tlio river blulf, which was 
 more than 100 feet in height, and so steep that it required twenty men to pull up the instru 
 ment cart. The chief obstacle to travel to-day y^as a vast amount of trap rock, wliicli covered the 
 ground in many places. In others, the heat of the sun had baked the earth, and made it crack 
 in a manner which rendered travelling laborious. We saw but little timber on the road ; and 
 the hills were generally low, and not very steep. In passing over the rocks, one spring and 
 the axle of the cart were broken. I succeeded in transporting it to camp, but there found it to 
 be irreparably injured. The body was abandoned, but tlie axle was mended suiHciently to Iiold 
 the wheels togetlier, in order to continue the use of the odometer. 
 
 Several Indians came into camp in the afternoon, and I saw one of them kindle a fire \>y 
 rubbing two pieces of wood together. A block of cedar, about six inches square and (uiu inch 
 thick, perforated witli a small hole, formed the lower piece. One Indian held this firmly on a 
 horizontal rock, after having placed a i.'ttle tinder under the hole. A second took a round 
 
T 
 
 64 
 
 NARRATIVK ANU ITINERAUY — PIT RIVKR VALLEY. 
 
 stick, apparently of elder, about six inches long and a quarter of an inch in diameter, and, 
 inserting one end in the hole, rolled it very rapidly between the palms of his hands. In a few 
 moments sparks of fire fell down upon the tinder and ignited it. These savages have a 
 fondness for smoking tobacco, which I have never seen equalled. They inhale the smoke, and, 
 after retaining it as long as possible, force it through tlieir nostrils in an ecstasy of pleasure. 
 Tliey mark their faces with black, as a sign of mourning, and with red, for ornament; but I 
 have never seen both colors used iit once. Many of them perforate the nose, and insert a 
 straight piece of bone about an inch and a half in length. 
 
 Our camp to-night was on the river bank near the eastern entrance of the caiion, where we 
 found an abundant supply of excellent grass. I extract the following remarks upon the caiion, 
 from Lieut. Williamson's note book. 
 
 " The river itself was shallow throughout the whole caiion, and always had a space between 
 the water and bluff wide enough for a wagon road. No falls were noticed, and I saw nearly 
 the whole of the caiion. The bluffs were from 100 to tOO or 800 feet in height, and of basaltic 
 trap. The slope was generally of the debris from the rock, but often vertical columns of the 
 basalt were seen. In one place I noticed veins of a red material, the color of cinnabar." 
 
 August 8. — After fording the river, which was about forty feet in width, we continued our 
 course through a level, grassy valley, bare of trees. Several grouse, duck and curlew were shot 
 on the march. We passed many pits about six feet deep and lightly covered with twigs and 
 grass. The river derives its name from these pits, which are dug by the Indians to entrap 
 game. On this account, Lieut. Williamson always spelled the name with a single t, although 
 on most maps it is written with two. We encamped on the bank of the river, which here 
 flowed between bluffs, from twenty to thirty feet in height, bordered by bushes. Large 
 quantities of obsidian were found in the vicinity. The river was about thirty feet in width. 
 
 Lieut. Williamson made the following note on the day's march. 
 
 "To-day we had a level, good, but tedious ride. Opposite the middle of the valley, to the 
 west, is an opening in the hills of considerable breadth. This looks as if the hills south of 
 the opening were the northern slope of the range north of Fall River valley. Opposite the 
 bead of the valley the hills appear again. Near our evening camp, I went on a ridge and 
 found hills to the westward, not at all formidable in appearance, but whicli would still require 
 work to maketheiL. passable for a railroad." 
 
 August 9. — Lieut. Williamson directed me to remain in camp with the main party and 
 observe for latitude, &c., to-day, while he, with Lieut. Sheridan and the dragoons, explored 
 the road in advance. The heat was oppressive, but the bushes near the river bank afforded a 
 thick and pleasant shade. 
 
 The following extract from Lieutenant Williamson's journal shows the result of his exam- 
 ination. 
 
 " We followed the Lassen trail for 2.5 miles, to where it crossed the river at the mouth of a 
 small, dry branch. We here left the road to take the old Oregon trail, which was very dis- 
 tinct. It led north up the branch to the divide, and thence on, in the same direction, until we 
 struck a spring branch in pine timber, about seven miles from the river. I went on top of a 
 partially bald hill and liad a view of the country. The hills followed to the north, probably 
 inclining to the east. The rest of the country east of the meridian line appeared to be rolling, 
 or slightly hilly, and covered with open pine timber. I was sorry I could not ascertain if the 
 spring branch had a continuous bed to Pit river. Its course near its source was westerly ; 
 
NAURATIVE AND ITINEUAUY — WRIGHT LAKK — lUIETT LAKE. 
 
 65 
 
 but there is no reason to suppose that it did not bend toward the south, and discharge into Pit 
 river about ten miles below our camp. I feel pretty sure either that it sinks, (that is, has no 
 continuous bed,) or that it goes to Pit river. In the latter case, the railroad should follow it up. " 
 August 10. — To-day, we travelled over the route examined by Lieutenant Williamson yester- 
 day, and encamped at wliat he termed the " spring branch." It was a little creek about ten 
 feet in width, which flowed through a small opening bordered by pine timber. The stream 
 was so choked up with bushes, that, in many places, it could only be reached by cutting them 
 away. Towards the lower part of the opening, the brook spread out into a little swamp ^ 
 Frogs of a very peculiar species were found iu the creek and swamp, in great numbers. An ante- 
 lope was shot near cauip. 
 
 August 11. — The party was aroused at three o'clock this morning, by Lieutenant William- 
 son's order ; as it was '. >ry uncertain how far we might be obliged to travel before reaching 
 water. The head of the antelope killed yesterday, had been baked by allowing it to remain 
 all night buried among hot stones, and it furnished an excellent breakfast. We followed the 
 wagon road through an open pine forest for about six miles, and then, finding that it inclined 
 too much to the west, left it, and endeavored to keep, by compass, a course N. 20° ^ , . After 
 travelling several miles on nearly level ground through the forest, we emerged from it, and 
 found ourselves on a rocky plain covered with sage bushes. This we crossed in about six miles, 
 and, on reaching the summit of a line of low sandstone hills capped with trap, saw below us 
 Wright lake. It was a fine sheet of water, about eleven miles long and four miles wide, 
 bordered by tule. The banks were so miry that we were compelled to travel more than a 
 mile before reaching a place where the animals could drink. We encamped in the edge of the 
 tule, near some green willow bushes which supplied us with our only fuel, as even sage bushes 
 had disappeared after crossing the hills. 
 
 August 12. — Our course, at first, lay along the southwestern shore of the lake, where the 
 hills occasionally terminated very abruptly at the water's edge. The horn of a mountain sheep, 
 weighing several pounds, was found near the trail. After crossing the low hills which border 
 the lake, we travelled through a gently undulating region, dotted with sage bushes, for about 
 seven miles. Wo then found ourselves on the edge of an abrupt descent of 200 feet, which 
 conducted to the shores of Rhett lake. This lake was about fourteen miles long and eight 
 miles broad. It was bordered by a wide belt of tule, the home of vast numbers of water-fowl, 
 which rose in clouds at our approach. 
 
 On tlie bluif the trail joined un emigrant road, which followed down a narrow ravine to the 
 level of the lake. This ravine was once the scene of a bloody massacre. A party of In- 
 dians lay in ambush, until an emigrant train reached the middle of the descent, and then 
 attacked and killed nearly the whole party. Rhett lake is a secure retreat, where the savages 
 can escape among the tule, in their light canoes, and defy a greatly superior force. 
 
 The line of hills which borders the lake on the northeastern side, is separated from the tule 
 by a narrow strip of land, elevated but little above the water. This was covered with grass, 
 the rich green of which presented a refreshing contrast to the sickly blue of the sage ])lain 
 over which we had been travelling. The clouds of dust ceased, and wo journeyed on through 
 a much more pleasing region. After riding a few miles from the bluff, we left the road, and 
 encamped on Lost river near where it discharges itself into the lake by several mouths. It 
 was a deep, unfordable stream, flowing with a very sluggish current. The banks were abrupt 
 like the sides of a ranal. A few sage bushes and " hois des vachcs" supplied the only fuel. 
 9 X 
 
60 
 
 NARRATIVE AND ITIJ^KEIARY LOST RIVER — NATURAL BRIDGE. 
 
 We found, encamped near the stream, a party of men that had come from Yreka to meet 
 and escort an expected emigrant train. 
 
 August 13. — Lieut. Williamson determined to pass around the western side of Lower 
 Klamath lake, with Lieut. Sheridan and the dragoon detachment, to examine the route, and 
 to ascertain whether Klamath river flowed through the lake or not. He gave me instructions 
 to proceed with the main party to Upper Klamath lake, and, after selecting a good camping 
 place near its southern extremity, to await his arrival. Nine of the foot soldiers were sick, and 
 they accompanied Lieut. Williamson, to be sent, in charge of a non-commissioned officer, 
 through the pass south of Mount Pitt to Fort Lane. 
 
 My party left camp first. We followed up the eastern hank of Lost river, through a dusty 
 sage plain almost destitute of grass, to the Natural Bridge. The river was here about eighty 
 feet wide and very deep ; but it was spanned by two natural bridges of conglomerate sandstone 
 from ten to fifteen feet in width, parallel to each other, and not more than two rods apart. 
 The water flowed over both of them. The top of the most northern one inclined down stream, 
 but it was only covered to a depth varying from six inches to two feet. The other was nearly 
 horizontal, but the water, being unusually high, was too deep for fording. There are probably 
 hollows under both arches, through which the river flows. Emigrants cross here with their 
 loaded wagons. There is no ford for a considerable distance above, and none below. We 
 passed over without difficulty, and followed a well markcc^ Indian trail towards the north, 
 through a level valley dotted with sage bushes and a few clumps of bunch grass. The river, 
 which was full of short bends, was often sunk as much as thirty feet below the plain. There was 
 apparently a good ford 4.5 miles above the Natural Bridge. The valley was about three miles 
 wide, and bordered by high hills ; those on the east being well timbered with pine, and those 
 on the west nearly bare. The bunch grass became more abundant as we advanced, and the 
 sage bushes fewer in number. After travelling twelve miles from the Natural Bridge, we 
 reached a place where the river issued through a caiion from the hills to the eastward ; and, 
 although the valley continued towards the north, it was entirely destitute of water. As the 
 distance to Klamath lake was unknown, we left the trail and encamped near the mouth of the 
 canon. The general surface of the plain was here about forty feet above the water ; but it was 
 connected by a bench, about 200 yards in width, of not more than half that height. This 
 formed a good camping ground ; being covered with fine bunch grass, while bushes and small 
 trees for fuel were found in abundance near the edge of the stream. 
 
 August 14. — This morning some excitement was created in camp by the discovery of a huge 
 rattlesnake coiled up under a blanket. Tiie reptile was killed ; but, as we all slept without 
 tents on the ground, unpleasant ideas were suggested by the incident. Our course lay towards 
 the north, through a narrow valley thinly covered with sage bushes and clumps of bunch grass. 
 It was bordered by timbered hills which gradually closed in upon the trail. We crossed several 
 dry beds of streams, and also the bottom of what, in the rainy season, was undoubtedly a small 
 lake. It was now dry, and covered with a white efflorescence. After travelling 9.5 miles we 
 reached a low line of hills, which formed the northern boundary of the valley. Klamath river 
 forced its way through the ridge by a narrow caiion, and, after flowing along the western side 
 of the valley for a short distance and spreading out into a small lake, disappeared among the 
 hills towards the west. On reaching the summit of the very low divide, composed of trap rock, 
 we saw outspread before us Upper Klamath lake. It was a fine sheet of water, thirty miles 
 long and twelve miles wide, bordered by timbered ridges with an occasional narrow belt of tule. 
 Light clouds of smoke rising from signal fires upon several of the hills satisfied us that watchful 
 
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 ''v«,,ifjf,.- 
 
 
 i> 
 
 
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 -% 
 
 
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 a. 
 
 E-l 
 
 
 
 CD 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 I 
 
 a:; 
 a, 
 
NARRATIVE AND ITINERARY — UPPER KLAMATH LAKE, 
 
 67 
 
 eyes were measuring our advance. Wo had struck a small arm of the lake, from which Klamath 
 river issued. Following along the eastern side, wo crossed a grassy maadow, and encamped 
 at the extremity of a hilly promontory whicli projected into the lake. Excellent bunch grass, 
 with buslies and small trees for fuel, abounded in tlie vicinity. East of the protnontory, a wide 
 field of tule prevented approach to tlie water; but the western shore was rooky and bold. 
 Snakes of various kinds were very plentiful. Several large rattlesnakes were killed before we 
 had been in camp an hour; and I counted nearly a dozen cast off skins lying within a rod of 
 each other. Two squaws came into camp in the afternoon, with a few fish which they had 
 caught in the lake. We gave them some presents, and they paddled rapidly away in their canoe 
 to spread the news. The water taken from the lake had a dark color and a disagreeable taste, 
 occasioned apparently by decayed tule. 
 
 August 15. — We remained in camp to-day, waiting for Lieut. Williamson. Several good 
 observations were obtained for latitude and altitude. 
 
 About midnight a sudden alarm aroused camp. The cook's fire had spread, by some dead 
 roots, to the dry grass and bushes ; and a general conflagration was prevented only by the most 
 vigorous exertions. It was at first supposed that the Indians had kindled the fire, to engage 
 our attention while they stampeded the mules, and this idea did not tend to lessen the exciie- 
 ment and confusion of the scene. 
 
 August 16. — To-day was spent in taking astronomical and barometric observations, while 
 waiting ibr Lieut. Williamson. A thick haze which covered the lake, entirely concealed the 
 opposite shore. The taste of the water was so disagreeable that several vain attempts were made 
 to discover a spring in the vicinity. 
 
 August 17. — Lieut. Williamson with his escort came into camp at noon, having made a satis- 
 factory examination of Lower Klamath lake. A description of his route will be found in 
 Chapter IV. Three broken down mules of the escort train were shot to-day, and every prepara- 
 tion was made for an early start to-morrow. 
 
 August 18. — The ridges on the eastern side of the lake, which were composed of vesicular trap, 
 appeared to run parallel to each other in a northeast and southeast direction, and to termi- 
 nate abruptly at the water's edge. A well marked Indian trail followed along the shore ; but 
 members of the party who had explored it for a short distance reported it very rocky, and 
 impassable for " the little cart," as the odometer wheels still continued to be termed. Lieut. 
 Williamson had observed several Indian trails diverging to the right on his last day's march ; 
 and he therefore determined to follow a southeast course, hoping to discover some good pass 
 by which he could cross the ridges, and thus avoid the rocks and bends of the shore. After 
 travelling about three miles in this direction through a wooded country, he tliought it best to cross 
 abruptly a steep and rocky ridge to the east. We thus reached a narrow valley, lying 
 between two steep ranges of hills, and filled witli open pine timber. There was a large Indian 
 trail in it, which conducted us to the lake. A precipitous and rocky ridge rose abruptly from 
 the water, leaving barely sufficient room to pass along the bank. After travelling a short 
 distance, we reached a point where several springs gushed from the hill side, and disappeared 
 among thick bushes surrounded by luxuriant grass. The water was clear and pure, and Lieut. 
 Williamson at once encamped. Elder and service berries were found in abundance. A thick 
 haze prevented astronomical oliserviitijns, and concealed the western shore of the hike. Snakes, 
 as usual in this region, were very ninnerous, and" one of them glided suddenly among our 
 dishes, as we were sitting down on the ground to eat. 
 
68 
 
 NARRATIVE AND ITINKRARY — KLAMATH RIVER — KLAMATH MARSH. 
 
 August 19. — This morning the trail, for three or four niilcB, wound along the rocky side of the 
 ridge which bordered the lake, and was, in consequence, very rough. Hugo rocks, piled near 
 the water's edge, prevented the passage of " the little cart " by that route. The hill r ide was 
 sparsely covered with scattered pines, but near the lake shore springs were numerous, and the 
 growth of bushes was often dense. Bartee, the guide, shot three bald eagles with his rifle, as 
 we passed along the base of the crags upon which they were fearlessly resting. 
 
 In riding under the projecting limb of a tree, Mr. Daniels was knocked from his mule and 
 quite severely injured. The country had recently been burnt over, and the want of grass 
 compelled Lieut. Williamson unwillingly to continue the march. The trail soon diverged from 
 the lake shore, and after passing over a dry plain entered an open pine forest. In a short time 
 we found ourselves on the banks of Klamath river, which was flowing through a fine, grassy 
 bottom, marked by a few clumps of willow bushes. Here we encamped. The river was about 
 150 feet in width, and apparently quite deep. There was a ford, however, a short distance 
 below. Every requisite for a good camp ground was found in abundance in the vicinity. 
 August 20. — Mr. Daniels was much better this morning and able to ride his mule. 
 As had been usual of late, a dense fog obscured the view for two or three hours after starting. 
 Our course lay up the eastern side of the beautiful valley of Klamath river. The bottom was at 
 first open, covered with green grass, and bordered by low timbered hills. We passed several 
 cliifs of basaltic breccia, from twenty to fifty feet in height, and occasionally ornamented with 
 rude, Indian paintings. The current of the stream was not very rapid, and there appeared to 
 be several fords. The trail crossed one large and fine tributary which flowed swiftly over a 
 rocky bed. After travelling twelve miles from camp, we reached the mouth of a canon from which 
 the river emerged. The sides were of basaltic rock and pumice-stone, and very steep. Lieut. 
 Williamson estimated their height at 1,000 feet at the highest points. We followed the trail 
 over the ridge on the eastern side of the river, and several times looked down into the canon. 
 Its course appeared to be straight in the main, but small bends were numerous. The ridge was 
 heavily timbered with pine. The forest was on fire, and an occasional heavy crash reverberating 
 for miles, warned us to beware of falling trees. The canon was about four miles in length. A 
 short distance beyond iti northern entrance, we emerged from the forest and entered a lovely 
 meadow, covered with clover and fine green grass. The ground was miry near the river, which 
 was deep and sluggish, and we encamped at the edge of the timber. The meadow appeared to 
 be an arm of Klamath marsh, and was evidently flooded at seasons of high water. 
 
 August 21. — This morning at daybreak, the fog was so dense that we could not see fifty yards 
 in advance, but the sun soon caused it to melt away. The trail led us over a thickly timbered 
 ridge which projected into the meadow. The soil was light pumice-stone dust, and fallen trees 
 rendered travelling somewhat difficult. At the northeastern base of the ridge we reached the 
 shore of Klamath marsh. This was a strip of half submerged land, about twelve miles long and 
 seven miles broad. It was covered by clumps of tule and other aquatic plants separated by small 
 sheets of water. Thousands of ducks, plover, and other water birds, made it their home. They 
 were so tame that they would hardly fly at the report of a gun, but it was useless to shoot them, 
 as the deep mud rendered it impossible to secure them afterwards. We surprised two Indians 
 on the shore, and endeavored to make them understand that we were friendly ; but they evidently 
 distrusted our professions, and escaped as soon as possible. 
 
 Lieut. Williamson decided to follow the eastern shore of the marsh. We soon reached a 
 collection of Indian huts built near the edge of the water. Our two friends had evidently been 
 then; before us, for the rancheria had been very recently deserted. Large quantities of food, 
 
NAURATIVK AND rriNKUAUY — KLAMATH MAIiSlI — INDIANS. 
 
 60 
 
 conHisting itiosUy of seeds of water plants and dried fisli, several eanoes made of Iiollowed logs, 
 many liaskets formed of reeds curiously woven together, and divers other valuables, were scat- 
 tered around in wild lonfusion. The fires were burning in front of the lints, of which thero 
 were three distinct kinds. The sumraer lodges had vertical walla suiiporting (lat roofs. They 
 •were comiiosed of a framework of sticks, covered with a matting of woven tule. The winter lints 
 were shaped like bee-hives, and made of sticks plastered with mud. We noticed only one of tho 
 third kind, which was apparently used for a council house. A hole, about four feet deep and ten 
 feet square, had been excavated, and tho earth heaped up around tho sides. Largo sticks planted 
 in this rand wall supported a roof made of cross poles covered with earth. Tlio entrance was 
 by a flight of mud stops that conducted to tho roof, from which a rude ladder led through a 
 hole to the floor below. Each of these structures is represented in the accompanying wood cuts, 
 together with some conical graves described below. 
 
 The dusky inmates of the rancheria had betaken themselves to their canoes, and retreated 
 among the tule to what they considered a safe distance. They now stood, yelling like fiends 
 and shaking their weapons at us in impotent rage. Strict orders had been given tiuit none of 
 their property should be injured ; and we passed rapidly along the shore of the marsh, sur- 
 prising a new rancheria at almost every turn. The number of these savages is very large ; 
 and nature has given them so secure a retreat, that only a greatly superior force provided with 
 boats, could attack them to advantage. They paddled through openings among the tule, and 
 thus accompanied us, uttering hideous howls when the labor of working their passage did not 
 keep them quiet. We passed on the way one of their burial places. The bodies had been 
 doubled up, and placed in a sitting posture in holes. The earth, when rejilaced, formed conical 
 mounds over the heads. Near the otiier graves, but on a slight eminence, stood a new wall- 
 tent, such as is used in our service. It was regularly pitched and the front tied up. On look- 
 
70 
 
 NAKUATIVK AM) ITINKUAKY — KLAMATH INDIANH. 
 
 hi 
 
 ing insiclo, wo saw a larj^o mound about two foot in height, tho bivHo of which covorod tho whole 
 space enclosed by tho wiillc A new blanket wiis spreiid over tho top. Here, doiibtleHH, wiia 
 tlie grave cf souie great .iiiof; but how the savageM becanu! poHHcssed of tho tent remains 
 a mysterj. Along tlic whole eliain of Klamatii waters wo noticed, in many places, large 
 
 stones laid one upon the other, forming piles from two to six feet in height. Some of the 
 l)arty thought that these were marks to show the trail when the ground wxs covered with snow; 
 but the vast numbers of them sometimes found within a few feet of each other, and their fre- 
 quent proximity to trees which could easily have been blazed, rendered this hypothesis rather 
 improbable. 
 
 After travelling about sixteen miles from the place where we first struck the marsh, we 
 reached a part where it was not more than a mile wide. Seeing several mounted Indians 
 hastily driving a number of horses across, we attempted to follow, but found the ground too 
 miry for pack animals. As it was almost sundown, Lieut. Williamson decided to encamp near 
 some trees on the shore. The only water was that found stagnant on the surface of the marsh. 
 The grass was good, but it had been eaten quite short by the Indian horses. As we had been 
 careful to do the savages no injury, they began to doubt our hostile character, and sent in a 
 few squaws as an experiment. As they were dismissed with presents, large numbers of men 
 entered camp, and made great professions of friendship. We distrusted them, however, and 
 kept a close watch upon the animals during the night. 
 
 August 22. — This morning many Indians came into camp. They were all well dressed in 
 blankets and buckskin, and were armed with bows and arrows and a few fire-arms. Their 
 intercourse with the Oregon settlements had taught many of them to speak the Chinook, or 
 Jargon language, and one had a slight knowledge of English. They owned many horses, 
 some of which were valuable animals. No offer would tempt them to sell any of the latter, 
 although they were eager to dispose of a few miserable hacks too worthless to purchase. 
 
NAlinATIVr, AND ITINKUAUY— KI-AMATII VOCAIIULARY. 
 
 71 
 
 1/ 
 
 Till' idi'a, which prevails in Oregon, that all Indian liorHes are of an inferior Itreoil, doiihtlews 
 uriHeH from the fiiet that hiicIi only are broiij^ht to tlio HcttlementH for Hale. Near Klamath 
 nmrHh we Haw a few anitnalH of a piebald color, wlioMe graceful fortnH and clear, piercing eyes 
 showed very superior blood. It may bo that their ^'encalogy extenils back to the Ihirbary 
 stcedH introduced by the HjianiardH into Mexico, and Hupposed to be the progenitors of the 
 wild horses of the ))rairieH. 
 
 Near the spot where wo wore encamped, the marsh was not more than a mile in width ; hut it 
 extended an indefinite distance towards the cunt, and the Indians informed us that the journey 
 round it was very lonj?, and without water. They volunteered to hIiow us a natural causeway 
 to the other side ; but it proved too miry for pack mules. Our now friends all declared that 
 the best trail to the Dos Chutes valley led round the western side of the marsh ; and Lieut. 
 Williamson finally decided to turn back and try that route. We followed almost the same 
 trail as yesterday, and encamped near the southern point of the marsh. 
 
 A large number of Indians accompanied us, one of whom Lieut. Crook had formerly seen in 
 Yreka. These savages were intelligent, and in every way superior to those of Pit river. By 
 questioning them in Chinook, Lieut. Williamson, assisted by Lieut. Crook, obtained the 
 following partial vocabulary of their language. 
 
 VOCABULARY OF THE KLAMATH LANGUAGE. 
 
 KVOLIHII. 
 
 Acorn 
 
 Alive, life 
 
 Arm 
 
 Arrow 
 
 Autumn 
 
 Axe, hatchet. 
 
 Bad 
 
 Bark 
 
 Beard 
 
 Bird 
 
 Black 
 
 Blood 
 
 Blue 
 
 Bone 
 
 Bow 
 
 Boy 
 
 Bread 
 
 Canoe 
 
 Chief 
 
 Cold 
 
 Cow 
 
 Day 
 
 Dead, death.. 
 
 Deer 
 
 Ear 
 
 Earth, land .. 
 
 Evening 
 
 Eye 
 
 Father 
 
 Klasiatu. 
 
 stup-ultz 
 
 muk-lux 
 
 shish-am-e-ny 
 
 ky-ish 
 
 scholi 
 
 schlak-ote 
 
 ko-its 
 
 ntsh-atz 
 
 smokl-smankl 
 
 yoke-ul 
 
 wush-push-li 
 
 tcha-co li 
 
 ketch-ketch-o-li 
 
 ka-ko 
 
 ty-ish 
 
 kitch'-ca-ne 
 
 sap-pe-lill 
 
 wountz 
 
 lak-i 
 
 kah-ti-kah 
 
 mu8-a-rau8 
 
 uy-i-ta 
 
 klah'-ka 
 
 lil-hunx 
 
 mo-mo-watz 
 
 kshun 
 
 lit-kah 
 
 lolpe 
 
 ptic-up 
 
 EMULI8U. 
 
 Feet 
 
 Fingers. 
 
 Kl AMATII. 
 
 Fire 
 
 Fire-wood. 
 Friend . ... 
 
 Girl 
 
 Good 
 
 Grass 
 
 Great, big .... 
 
 Green 
 
 Hair 
 
 Hand 
 
 Ha'. 
 
 Head 
 
 Heart 
 
 Hill 
 
 House 
 
 Indian shoes , 
 
 Infant , 
 
 Iron 
 
 Kettle 
 
 Knife 
 
 Leaf 
 
 Leg 
 
 Lightning ..., 
 
 Man , 
 
 Money , 
 
 Moon 
 
 Morning 
 
 patz 
 
 spal-o-wlsh 
 
 lo-lux 
 
 an-co 
 
 tit- si 
 
 na-watz'-ka 
 
 titch-i 
 
 ksoon 
 
 ah-tay-ne 
 
 nia-ax 
 
 lak 
 
 nap 
 
 tsho-nash 
 
 nos 
 
 sty-mas 
 
 kin-ka-ny 
 
 lat-sus 
 
 wuk-schu 
 
 mu-kak 
 
 wah-ti-ti 
 
 po-ko 
 
 wah-ti 
 
 ta-pac 
 
 tsoak 
 
 lu-i-pols 
 
 hish-watz 
 
 dollar 
 
 sa-pas 
 
 po-sant 
 
72 
 
 XAKlJA'llVK AND ITINKRAllY DTYIDE NOUTH OF KLAMATH MAH.SH. 
 
 W 
 
 Vocabulary of the Ivlamath lanr/uaije — Continued. 
 
 Enolijii. 
 
 Kl.AMATII. 
 
 Mother 
 
 Mountain 
 
 Mouth ,. 
 
 Nails , 
 
 Neck 
 
 Night 
 
 Nose 
 
 Old man 
 
 Pi [IP, calumet. 
 
 Pistol 
 
 Ttain 
 
 x\bix 
 
 llivcr... 
 
 Saddle 
 
 Salmon, fish... 
 
 Sea 
 
 Shirt 
 
 Sky, heaven... 
 Small, little... 
 
 Snake 
 
 Snow 
 
 SpriT'g 
 
 kis-up 
 
 whal-hico 
 
 slium 
 
 .staka 
 
 ne-is 
 
 psliin 
 
 ])shish 
 
 chick- ah 
 
 pa-ux-pox 
 
 an-co 
 
 klote-sus 
 
 tak tak-o-li 
 
 ko-knh 
 
 k',k-lus 
 
 tchi-altz 
 
 an-pu-al-la 
 
 tsho-lish 
 
 pit-eye 
 
 wik-a-ne 
 
 kUii-is' 
 
 chi--i8li 
 
 ^ch(>\ 
 
 r.sc.i.isii. 
 
 Star 
 
 Stick 
 
 Stone, rock 
 
 Squirrel 
 
 Summer 
 
 Sun 
 
 Thou 
 
 Thunder 
 
 Tobacco 
 
 Toes 
 
 Tongue 
 
 Tooth 
 
 Town, village... 
 
 Tree 
 
 Warm 
 
 Water 
 
 White 
 
 Wind 
 
 Winter.... 
 
 Woman 
 
 Yelkw 
 
 Kl.AMATII. 
 
 ktsol 
 
 ko.se 
 
 kty 
 
 tsutz-tsac 
 
 pa-ta 
 
 wy-tali 
 
 naw 
 
 Ic-mai.s 
 
 kotz-kul 
 
 spal-o-wish 
 
 pa-watz 
 
 tote 
 
 to-rae lat-sus 
 
 wali-ko 
 
 walks 
 
 am-ho 
 
 pol-pol-i 
 
 scla-wa-is 
 
 lol-dum 
 
 schnah-watz 
 
 kak-kak-o-li 
 
 August, 23. — Tiiib morning we st.uted with a large retinue of savages. The trail led through 
 opeo pine timber for about a laile, ari then enteied a fine, gri..ssy meadow which extended 
 tow.i.nl.s tlifi nortli to Klamath mar":. About thre.'? miles from camp we reached Klamath 
 river, hjr j a sluggish stream divided into two branches by a narrow island. The water rose 
 to the backs of the smaller mules, and Lieut. Williamson employed the Indians \"> transport 
 the packs across in canoes. Thiti the squavs, rvho perform all the work, did by paddling 
 round the northern end of the island. After p'lyi"^ their husbands with red blankets, beads, 
 and vermilion, which they appear to highly prize, we c^nt''nucd our course through the grassy 
 meadow until we reached a clear, ice-cold stream fiu ■ iiig t'irongh open timber. Here we 
 encamped. The brook rose in springs about a mile lom wher^j we struck it, according to the 
 report of the guide, Tvho shot three antelopes neai its source in the afternoon. 
 
 Avgusi 24. — This niorning the Indians left us. We followed a large but crooked trail 
 through a thick pine forest. Fallen timber of small size, somewhat obstructed the way, but 
 th'ire were no hills. The soil was light volcanic ashes, in whitjh the animals sank nearly to the 
 knee if they left the beaten trail. The dust was stifling. About 13.5 ir.iles from camp, we 
 reached the dry bed of a stream which was fringed with willows but entirely destitute of water. 
 About five miles further on we came to a water hole, and, as it was nearly sundown, Lieut. 
 W^illiamsou decided to encamp, although there was no gra.ss. The water was good, but the 
 hole filled slowly, and the supply was scanty. Two more holes were dug a short distance 
 further up the ravine, but most oi the animals passed the night suffering from both hunger and 
 thirst. 
 
 August 25. — To-day we continued our march through a country similar, in all respects, to that 
 
 i! 
 
NAinf.vnvK AM) rrixr.nAnY — xkah iikad of dks ciirTKs vallky. 
 
 73 
 
 travcrsetl yesterday, except that it became slightly undulating. The dense clouds of dust raised 
 hy our animals from the ashy soil were -ulTocating. After riding ahnnt 18.7 miles from camp, 
 we suddenly emerged from the dense forest, and found ourselves in the l)eautiful grassy bottom 
 of tlie Des Chutes river. It was hero a fine stream about thirty feet in width, and fordable 
 altliongh the current was rapid and the bed stony. Wo immediately encamped. At the water 
 hole, this morning, two trails diverged. We followed the more easterly one ; but two of the 
 jjarty by mistake took the otlier, which was equally large. It conducted them to a point 
 fr.rther up stream and was doubtless a trail leading to the wagon road across the Cascade 
 Range, wliich Lieut. Willia'nson subsequently examuM. Tlio supply of grass to-night was 
 abundant, and of fine quality ; tlie water was cold, au.l tlu' position in every respect excellent 
 for a camp. Large numbers of delicious trout, marked with red longitudinal stripes, were 
 caught with great ease in the river. 
 
 Atiijust 2C>. — This morning; we left the bank of the stream, and followed the trail for about 
 seven miles through a p'.ne forest. It ]>asscd over several low hills, upon which the soil was 
 light and ashy. As it w <und considerably towards the east, Lieut. Williamson was afraid that 
 it might leave the river entirely^ ,ind lead to the Wallah- Wallah country. He therefore 
 abandoned it, and turned again towards the stream, wiiich was reached in about 1.5 miles. 
 We crossed it at a good ford, and, to our great surprise, came upon an old nearly effaced 
 wagon trail. This we follnwed witli diHiculty for a short distance, when it seemed to di. .ijipear 
 in a thick growth of young trees and underbrush. After struggling forward for a short dis- 
 tance, we reerossed the river and again struck the wagon trail, which must have crossed to 
 the eastern bank, near where we entered tlie bushes. We followed it down the river. The 
 soil during the whole day's march was light and ashy. The country bad been recently burned 
 over by the Indians ; and we were beginning to despair of obtaining forage for our animals, 
 when a sudden bend revealed a portion of the river bottom thickly carpeted with luxuriant 
 grass. Mere we eiuamped under a few small trees. Tlio river, which was about forty feet in 
 width, tlowed through a grassy bottom bordered by low blull's, distant about 2(i() yards liom 
 the stream. The current was rapid, and the water clear and cold. Trout were abundant and 
 easily caught. 
 
 Aagant 27. — To-ilay we remained in camp, and Lieutenant Williamson made preparalions 
 to start to-morrow with Lieutenant ISlieridan and the dragixui detaclnnent, to begin the exam- 
 ination Ibr a pass through the Cascade Range to the Willamette valley. The soil was so light 
 that I found it impossible to take astronomical observations near cam[i. The ordinary move- 
 mi.'Uts of the men and animals caused a continual si iking of the ground, \\hicli disturbed the 
 mercury of the artificial horizon, althougli surrounded by a trench nearly t'vo feet in depth. 
 It was consequent!)' necessary, for every observation at this camp, to carry the instruments about 
 an eighth of a mile to the bluil's above the river bottom. In the night. Lieutenant Williamson 
 and others of our mess were taken violently sick. It was supposed by some that we had been 
 poisoned by eating trout caught in the river ; but I tiiink Hiat the sickness was probably occa- 
 si(uifd by some carelessness of the cook, 
 
 Aiiijmt 28. — Although Lietiteuant Williamson was quite unwell this morning, ho started 
 with Ijieuteuant Sheridan and the dragoons for th"? mountains. An itinerary of bis trij) will 
 be found in Chapter IV^, 'i'he main party reuiainoil under my charge in cain[), where the cus- 
 tomary observations were taken. Many crawfish, which when cooked were scarcely inferior to 
 lobsters, were caught in the river. 
 10 X 
 
74 
 
 NAURAXni; AND ITINKKAEY — NKAR IfKAD 01 JJKS CHUTES VALLEY. 
 
 Angmt 29. — As the supply of grass 'bt-gan to fail, I moved camp about 3.3 miles down stream 
 thi.s morning, to a point where the river bottom spread out into a fine prairie, carpeted with an 
 abundance of ricli bimch grass. To reach this prairie, we passed through a nearly level country 
 covered with pine forest. We encamped near some small trees on the river bank, where we 
 found all the requisites for an excellent camping place. During the night, ice of considerable 
 thichness formed in the water vessels, and just before sunrise the thermometer stood at 15° 
 Fahrenheit. 
 
 Au'just .^O. — The day was spent in tailing observations and computing. The glass crystal of 
 one of the chronometers was unfortunately broken ; but Mr. Coleman pounded a piece of tin 
 until he gave it the requisite curvature, and thus supplied an admirable substitute. He had 
 previously repaired a watch in the same manner. 
 
 Aiujmt 31. — We remained in camp taking the usual observations. Early in the morning 
 the air was quite uncomfortably cold, and the thermometer ranged below the freezing point 
 until nearl}'^ nine o'clock. The altitude of the camp above the sea was only 4,129 feet. 
 
 Scptanber 1. — To-day we were greatly surprised by the arrival of a party of gold seekers 
 from tlie Ump(jua valley, who were journeying to the Coleville mines. Iiey liad crossed the 
 Cascade Range by the wagon road soutli of Diamond Peak, which Lieutenant Williamson 
 •subscijuently examined. After remaining a few moments with us, they continued their march. 
 In tlie afternoon a cori>oral and two men arrived, bringing me orders from Lieutenant Wil- 
 liamson to join hiui on the second tributary of the Des Chutes river below camj). 
 
 September 2. — Our course this morning lay through a fine prairie, from half a mile to two 
 miles in width, and bordered with pine timber. The river wound through the middle of the 
 open sjiace, concealed from view by a line of willows, and the trail followed its general course. 
 The soil was mostly of a pumice-stone character, but there was an abundance of fine grass. 
 After travelling 13.5 miles we found, by the greatly increased size of the stream, that it had 
 received a tributary from the mountains. As the bushes were too thick to admit of riding near 
 the water's edge, I walked back, and in about a quarter of a mile reached the junction of the two 
 brandies. The new tributary was too large to ford, and the depth and swift current of the 
 main river threatened to give us mucli trouble in crossing. Beavers were very numerous in 
 this vicinity. Continuing our march we soon reached a jilace where the trail crossed to the 
 other bank ; but tlie ford was so deep tliat the water rose to the backs of our largest mules. 
 After searching in vain for a more sliallow place, I decided to make raits, rather tlian wet the 
 packs and endanger the animals by driving them loaded into the swift current. Tlie nicu 
 worked hard, and arc sunset all our packs and instruments had been transported to the western 
 bank in sali'ty, on a raft formed by lashing dry logs together. Tlie escort were not quite so 
 suceessfnl, and mutne of their property remained on the eastern bank until morning. The 
 river wtis about 150 feet in width ; the bottom was hard and free from boulders, and the banks 
 were low and firm. The depth of the water and the switl current ul/*^/! prevented fording. 
 
 Sep(( miter 3, — In examining the vicinity of camp this morniug, I {i;und the remains of an 
 (I'd Indian raiiclieria, surruiinded liy numerous deer and elk horns. A little abo/e the crossing 
 place on the western hank, several springs gusiiud from the rocks and united to Ibrm a stream 
 nearly fifteen feet in width, which discharged its(df into the river. 
 
 We started at about eight o'clock. The trail led near the river bank, through a pmiTfeo- 
 stone region covered with pine timber. Tliere were a few hills, and they graduaily incr«»«ed 
 in height and steepness as we advanced. The river abounded in short bends. About five 
 miles from camp, trap rock suddenly took the place of pumice-stone, and the stream entered 
 
NATIRATIVE AND ITIXERARV — DIVISION OF PARTY. 
 
 75 
 
 the great caiion, wliicli undoubtedly continues, without much interruption, to its moutli. Tlie 
 descent of the river in this caiion is shown by our barometric observations to average about 
 twenty-five foot to tlie mile. A bend in the trail soon brought us to the summit of a cliff 
 above tlie water, and revealed a scene ■wild and beautiful in the extreme. Tlie oppo.site bank 
 was composed of huge masses of trap rock, piled one upon the other in wild confusion. Almut 
 fifty feet below us, the river was leaping, with a low murmuring sound, from crag to crag and 
 apparently descending one hundred and fifty feet in less than three hundred yards. Tbo dark 
 pines around us, and tlie remains of a deserted Indian rancheria, harmonized well witli tlie scene. 
 
 After crossing several steep ridges, separated by small ravines, the trail left the river and 
 passed over an elevated plain densely timbered with pine. A few miles further on, we 
 descended abruptly into a narrow gorge, which conducted us to a small tributary. Here we 
 found Lieut. Williamson in camp, and an abundant supply of good grass and water. The 
 bottom was bordered by blufi's, about one hundred feet high, which approached each other and 
 increased in height, both above and below camp. Immediately after our arrival it began to 
 rain, for tlie first time on the survey. Some of tlie party, who had followed down the river 
 beyond the point where I left it, arrived thoroughly wet, a short time before sunset. They 
 reported their route execrable. 
 
 &p*emher 4. — This morning, after riding a few miles, we emerged from the forest, and traversed 
 £.ii ' v^ated plateau, dotted witli cedars and sage bushes, and marked by a few low ridges and 
 ravines extending in a northeast and southwest directi(m. None of tliese ridges were over liOO 
 feet in height. The air was uncommonly clear and pure. The white sumni'ts of several snowy 
 peaks began to apjiear in the distance, and we pressed rapidly forward. After travelling 17. 'i 
 miles from camp, we reached Why-chus creek, near the place where Lieut. Williamson lind en- 
 camped on September 1st. Itwas a fine stream, about 150 feet in width, flowing rai)iilly over rounded 
 rocks. Its waters were slightly turbid. There was an inexhaustible sujiply of fine grass in the 
 vicinity, but Lieut, Williamson decided to travel on, and encamp near the "forks of tlie Indian 
 trail." We passed through an open forest for the whole ilistanci and encamped on a little linndi 
 which, a few miles below us, sank among the rocks. Frrm a slight cininence ,d)0ve camp, tiie 
 snowy peaks of the Three Sisters appeared quite near. A largo meadow, which Lieut. VVilliain.son 
 had previously seen, and ujion which hedepeiided for grass, proved to be a cranberry swamp aiitl 
 utterly impassable. A suflieiency of cxcelliMit bunch grass, however, was found among the trees. 
 Wliortleberries, elder berries and service berries abnnnded in the vicinity. 
 
 September 6. — To-day we remained in camp, and I repaired tlie barometer whioli iiad boon 
 broken on the recent trip among the raour'.tains. 
 
 Lieut. Williamson instructed me to proceed to Fort Dalles to obtain provisions, and to examine 
 the Des Chutes valley, while he continued the exploration of the mountains in tiie vicinity. As 
 I had charge of a detached party during the remainder of tlie survey, it may be well to give a 
 brief synopsis of the movements of each division of the command, in order to render the subse- 
 quent part of the report more intelli;rible. Lieut. Williamson continued his explorations among 
 the mountains while I went to Fort Dalles. 1 rejoined him at Camp !S, near Why-ciius creek, 
 and we again separated. Ho returned to the head of the Des Chutes valley ; examined the jiass 
 south of Diamond Peak ; pioceeded to Vancouver, and thence by water to San Francisco. I 
 explored tlie vicinity of Mount Jeflerson ; .eturned nearly to the Dalles ; and then, crossing the 
 Cascade mountains by a new pass south of Mount Hood, went to Vancouver. From that ]iost 
 I proceeded, by way of Fort Lane and Fort Jones, to Fort Reading, where tiie field work ceased. 
 The next chapter contains itineraries of the routes followed by Lieut. Williamson. 
 
 hi 
 1' 
 
CHAPTEll IV. 
 
 NARRATIVE AND ITINERAIIY CONTINUED-ROUTES OF DETACHED 
 PARTIES IN CIIAltGE OF LIEUT. ^VFLIiAMSON. 
 
 EXPI.OIIATIOX XEAH LOWEU KI,AMATII lake. — I'aI'.TY. — WllITK STONE. — LoWEIl Kt.AMATll LAKE. — Kl.ASIATU HH Ell. — I.ini EKS. — ('A^()^•. — 
 I'Af.SAIIK OF RlVKIl TIlROCOll LAKH. — Tl TEll KLAMATH LAKE. — RAn.— .Il'.SCTION Willi MAIN I'AIITY. — FlllST EXi'LOIiATlOX AMONCi 
 THE CASCADE WOl'.NTA I.SS. — I'aHTY. — FlXK MEAUOW. — i^.MiW TEAK.^.— I.AKES. — \ iV.Vl FROM MOUNTAIN. — ISDIAN TRAIL. — ("Ai-'CADE. — 
 KXTINCT CRATER. — SlMMlT OF IIIVIIIE.— TllREK MEN SE.NT RACK.— INDIANS. — I'oRKS OF TRAIL. — WllY-Clll'S CREEK. — JCNCTION \V1TII 
 MAIN I'AIIIY. — PecONO KXI'LORATION AMONIi THE CASCADE WOCNTAIN.S. — PaHTY. — K.NTENDED YIE\V. — SnoW.— LaKES. — TrAIL DI?AI'- 
 
 ITAI1.S. — Ca.non. — Compelled to tirn rack. — Depot camp again.— Second start. — Difvicclt rolte. — K.xtended YlE^v. — Trail 
 
 DISAPPEARS. — riOCTK IMPASSAIILE. — COMPELLED TO I'CRN RACK. — ilAIN. — FKUIANS. — UaROMETER HROKEN. — Ur.TCKN TO DEPOT CAMP. — 
 
 Xe\y kocte. — IOlk killed. — Astronomical oiiseryations. — Route from camp "^ on why curs creek to yancocver. — Kinal 
 
 I1IY13I0N OF PARTY. — StART. — WaiiOX ROAD.— .MaIN IllYlIIE.— I.AKES. — -MlDDI.K FOBK OF WILLAMETTE HIYER. — Uol'TE IN KAYINE — 
 
 First settlement. — Spore's ferry. — -Urokkn down houses left reiiind. — Fences. — Socth fork of santiam iiiveu. — NUrth 
 
 KOBK. — <lREGON city. — FoRT VaNCOCYER. — SUHSEIJL'KNT MOYEMENTS OF IilKCT. WILLIAMSON. 
 
 TnE.si: itineraries have Wen comjiili d entirely tiom Lieut. Williamson's field notes^ a.s I did 
 not accompany liim on the expeditions. As his journal was written hastily and without any 
 view to i)ublication, considerable revision has been necessary — so much, indeed, as to preclude 
 the use of quotaticm marks. I have, however, been carel'ul to adhere to his own words as far 
 as pussiblc. 
 
 K.KlM.dK.VriOX Xi;.\l; I.OWKll KI,\M.\ril l..\KK. 
 
 Aiujust II). — T started this n)oruing ,. iui Lieut. JSlievidau and the dragoons to i'oilow round 
 the western side of Lower Khunath lake, having directed Lieut. Abbot to pass with the main 
 jiarty up the eastern side, and rejoin me near Upper Klamath lake. I crossed Lost river at tlio 
 Natural r>ridgc, and then proceeded on the Yreka trail to where the Oregon trail diverged from 
 it. We travelled to-day about twenty miles and encamped on a stream, ten i'eet wide, wliicli 
 flowed from springs at the foot of a neighboring hill. 
 
 August 14. — About a mile from camp I saw a white spot on the road, and found that the 
 ground became wliitc lu, I ajijiroached it. On tlie spot itself were fragments of a white, soft 
 stone, apparently clay. A piece was preserved for examination. About four miles i'rom cami) 
 we crossed a fine spring branch, rising at the foot of hills within one hundred yards of the trail, 
 and apparently joining the one on which we liad encamped, near Lower Klamath lake. Three 
 miles i'urther on we crossed another spring branch emptying into the hike. About two or tlirco 
 miles further on we skirted the western side of the hike. The body of water was small, but a 
 large marsh extended for about ten miles towards the north. We soon entered pine timber, and 
 after crossing a pretty higli divide reached Klamath river, a short distance from tiie lake. The 
 sick men were better. I prepared letters for tlie War Department, to send by them to Fort 
 Lane, 
 
 August 15.— Within half a mile of camp, the river came through hills forming a cafion. We 
 were obliged to ascend the ridge, and follow it for about six miles. We then descended, forded 
 the river, atid soon reached the edge of the marsh. Our course thus far lo-day had been nearly 
 parallel to that of yesterday. After taking several compass bearings, we followed a northerly 
 
.lOUUNAL OF LT. WIIJ.IASISON'S .SIDE EXPLORATIONS, COMPILED FUOM HIS NOTES. 77 
 
 course tn a sjji-ing on tlio edge of tlie marsii, where we encamped. The river cornea int. tlio 
 inarsh, curves througli it, and passes oft' to the canon, without any visible connection with tlio 
 main body of water in the lake, wliicli lies furtlier to the southward. Doubtless, in the rainy 
 season, tlie water covers the wliole marsh, and then the river literally passes tlirougli the lake. 
 Several deer were killed to-day; one of which, a very fat buck, was supposed to weigh over two 
 hundred pounds. The sick men were sent this morning, through the pass south of Mount Pitt, 
 to Fort Lane. 
 
 AuijuHt IG. — We started this morning to follow up the Klamatli river. ]\Iucli to our surprise, 
 we came at n' ou to an arm of a large lake from which tlie river flowed. This proved to 
 he UpperKlamath lake. It was tlifficult to say where the connecting river ended and the lower 
 lake began. Where tlie tule ceased, tlie river ran rai)idly between low hills backed by higher 
 ridges and was full of rapids. In one place there were falls from iive to ten feet higli. We 
 found the river everywliere too deep to ford. At the rapids, where many rocks ro.«e above tiio 
 water, there were numerous deep holes; and nc.ir where it emergeil from tlie lake it was twenty 
 feet deep. We fortunately found two old cnnoes, and lashing them together, formed a raft 
 upon which we carried our baggage across. Tlie animals swam over without accident. Wo 
 encamped near the spot. 
 
 Avgunt 17. — Tliis morning the sentinel did not arouse camji at the time ordered, and it was 
 about eight o'clock before we were ready to start. Wc soon reached tlie main party, which we 
 found in camp on the lake shore. They had been waiting for us two days. 
 
 FIRST EXPLOIIATION AMONG THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 
 Auaud 28. — I left Camp 37 this morning, accompanied by Lieuteuant Sheridan and the 
 dragoons, to explore the Cascade mountains near the head of the Des Ciiutes valley, leaving 
 the main party in Depot camp. We carried provisions for seven days. We were compelled to 
 descend the river about a mile before we could find a ford. Having crossed, we fook a cmirse a 
 little north of west, and in five miles struck the main river, which was sometimes one Iiundred 
 yards wide, and not iordable. LSefore reaching it, the trail gradually ascended, and tlien 
 abruptly descended to the water's edge. After following the river for a short distance, we 
 made an early camp, as I felt quite sick. 
 
 Au'just 29. — Bartee, the guide, had followed up the creek yesterday, and found that, by going 
 lowards the base of a mountain southwest of us, we could shorten the distance. We therefore 
 struck through the timber, and came to the river again in about five miles. Tiie stream had 
 diminisi ^d so much in size that we inferred it had forked. In following it down to ascertain 
 tlic liu^t, llartce killed a deer. I made a sliort halt, and sent a small party aliead to look Uv 
 the brancli. They ibund it, and rejiorted it larger tiian the one upon wliich we were. Wt- 
 therefore struck across, and reached it at a point about a mile above the junction. It was not 
 always iordable, but we soon succeeded in crossing. A few miles from the junction w> came to 
 a ineailuw, five or six miles in diameter, in which the stream again forked, botli branches being 
 too deep to for<l. We t'oUowed iqi the uorth brancli to the timber, and encamped. It was too 
 cloudy to take astronomical observations to-nigiit. 
 
 August 30, — We tried to cress the branch tiiis morning at various places, hut did not suc- 
 ceed until we liad travelled l.o miles, i^efbre crossing w(! came in sight of s'jveral s.. v peaks ; 
 and (lie stream was so large, and the view towards the peaks presented a prospect so iavorable 
 lor a good pass, that we determined to follow the north brancli, leaving the other, altiiough 
 it was the larger of tiie two. Our course lay sometimes through open meadows, and sometimes 
 
78 JOURNAL OF LT. WILLIAMSON'S SIDE EXPLORATIONS, COMriLED FROM HIS NOTES. 
 
 among a dense mass of young trees and fallen timber, until wo reached a lake a mile in 
 diameter, which received no tributary and was evidently the source of tlie stream. A 
 short distance beyond was another and larger lake with no outlet. \Vc encamped on the small 
 lake, and Lieutenant Sheridan and myself ascended a bald hill, about three miles distant, the 
 summit of whicli was '.learly two thousand eet above camj). We had an extensive view. To 
 the westward was a low ridge connecting with the snow mountains. This ridge may be the 
 crest of the Cascade mountains, but there '..'ere successive ranges beyond it, some of whieli ap- 
 peared to be very high, and thirty miles off. There was no snow on them. Between two 
 overlapping ridges we saw a faint line of mountains, indefinitely distant and scarcely visible. 
 To the northward were the snow peaks, which we afterwarda found to be the Three Sisters. 
 Two only were distinctly visible, but peaks of others were seen behind them, apparently sepa- 
 rated by low depressions. Between us and the nearest ridge were several lakes, nearly a dozen 
 in all. It afterwards proved that others were hidden from our view. To the southward we 
 saw a large lake at the base of a saddle peak. It was six miles or more in diameter, and was 
 evidently the source of the otlier fork of the stream which we had l)een following. To go to the 
 westward among the mass of mountains, I saw would require more time than I could spare, and 
 I finally determined to cross the divide among the snow mountains, which might prove to be 
 the crest of the Cascade Range. We returned to camp a little after sunset. 
 
 Aufjmt 31. — Our course to the depression between the two snow peaks was nearly north. 
 The ground was covered witli volcanic rock in ridges and masses, with steep irregular ravines 
 lietween. About ten miles from camp, we reached a good sized lake at the base of the snow 
 peaks. We here struck an old Indian trail which led us to the depression. In ascending, wo 
 came to a bFait^ful little valley with a stream flowing through it towards the lake. Thisst'-eam 
 issued from Liie liills with a vertical fall of about thirty feet. We at lengtli reached the summit of 
 a ridge, wliich we supposed to be the culminating i)oint. Its height above the sea was G,303 feet. 
 We the," descended to a scries of small lakes, one or two hundred feet below the crest just jiassed, 
 and lying immediately at the base of the snow peaks. The trail again began to ascend, and, 
 at ''ongth, reached the summit of a ridge about live hundred feet higher than tlio first. On 
 look'ug back we saw plainly that we had crossed an extinct crater, whicli had thrown to the 
 southward the immense streams of lava we had passed over. Descending on the Indian trail, 
 xrc encamped on a little brook with a red eartli bottom. Its valley was small, but tliere was a 
 liWle grass. The night was cold and windy, and the sky obscured by clouds. 1 sent a corporal 
 Knd two men back with instructions to Lieutenant Abbot to move camp to the second branch 
 below . 
 
 Septemher 1. — To-day we resumed our march on the trail. We soon overtook two mounted 
 Indians, a male and a squaw. The latter disappeared as soon as possible, but the man pro- 
 ceeded with us a short distance, and then went off at a gallop to join his comrade. He spoke a 
 little Cliinook, and gave us to imderstand that the trail soon forked — one branch going to the 
 Dalles, the other to the Willamette valley. About nine miles from camp we reached the forks. 
 After riding a short distance on the northern branch, we left it to follow down a small brook 
 which we had seen near the forks. This soon became dry, but its rocky bed conducted to a 
 considerable stream, a liranch of the Dos Chutes, called by the Indians Why-chus. Here we 
 cneainped. Our barometer was unfortunately broken to-day. 
 
 Septemhcr 2. — This morning we crossed over to the next branch, where we expected to meet 
 Lieut. Abbot, but he was not there. The road was good, and practicable places could be found 
 
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JOURNAL OF LT. WILLIAMSON'S .SIDE LXPLOKATIONS, COMI'ILKIJ I'UOM HIS NOTKS. 79 
 
 for a niilrond ; but still there were low ridj^oH, with j^ullieH hetwicii tliem ninniii<; northeast, 
 wliicli woiihl hiive to be crossed. None of tlieni were more thiiu 200 or liOO feet in heiglit. 
 
 Stplcmher 'S. — To-dtiy the main party arrived, having been delayed by the necessity of raft- 
 ing the river. 
 
 SECOND EXPLORATION AMONG THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Septemhef 0. — I left Ciinip 40 to make a second exploriition among the mountains this morn- 
 ing, accompanied by Lieutenant Sheridan, ]\Iessrs. Fillelrown :ind Young, Dr. Newberry, 
 Bartee, and the dragoons. Lieutenant Abbot started witli a small party for Fort Dalles, and 
 tlie main body of the escort remained in Depot camp. 
 
 The trail i)assed to the north of the northernmost snow mountain, anil crossed the divide at 
 a point much higher than some others visible a few miles further to the north. We had a, 
 fine view of Mount Jeiferson, Mount Hood, and Mount Adams.. Southward, two of tlie four 
 snow peaks forming the Three Sisters, loomed up quite near us. Tliere was snow on the trail 
 near the divide. The ascent was steep, and impracticable for a railroad. Looking to the 
 north and east, however, the prospects were more favorable. A high, lone mountain, six or eight 
 miles north of us, interrupted the view, but it was evident that by going northwest from "Camp 
 I, " on Why-chus creek, and skirting the north' rn base of the mountain, the divide could 
 be reached at a much lower point, and the long sweep would decrease the grade. The distant 
 view we had would not leave a doubt as to the perfect practicability of this route ; but a closer 
 examination might reveal many unexpected obstacles. It, however, seemed to be the only 
 ieasible line between the Three Sisters and Mount Jefferson ; and it looked more favorable than 
 the route south of the Three Sisters. 
 
 Looking westward, we saw mountains beyond mountains, one mass without any apparent 
 regularity or design, except that we saw the ordinary illusion of a system of ranges perpendicular 
 to the line of vision. Whether we were on the main ridge of the Cascade Range, when on this 
 divide, I do not know. Four small lakes lay to the westward, between tlie ridge upon wliich wo 
 stood and another, parallel to it but much lower. There seemed to be a water-course from these 
 lakes towards the north, but it may have been an illusion. A little south of west was tlie deep 
 ravine of a stream which received a branch from Mount Jefferson and one from the south. 
 
 From the divide we descended by a gradual slope, and encamped near tlie lakes. The grass 
 was poor and scanty, and a much better cainiiing place had been passed a mile or two back. 
 
 September 1. — The trail led towards the west, this morning, over the low ridge that borders 
 the lakes. A dry water-course, which we crossed before ascending, wound towards the north, 
 and may or may not conduct to the Des Chutes. The strong probability is that it does not. On 
 the crest of the ridge I halted the command in a whortleberry patch, Avhile I went up on a 
 small eminence, IVom wliieh I could see the caiions of the rivers, apparently about five miles off. 
 The uiily grass in sight was in a meadow in the main caiion, near the junction of the two branches. 
 After advancing a short distance, tlie trail gave out where there was some grass and a^ few 
 small lakes. It seemed probable, either that the trail led to this spot merely for pasturage, or 
 that it was a branch from a main trail which we had missed near our last camp. While ad- 
 vancing towards the canon, we became entangled in fallen timber iind thick forests, and were 
 compelled to cross several steep ravines, in one of which we found water. Finally, on reaching 
 the edge of the caiion, we saw the river flowing more than 1,000 feet below us. To descend 
 the precipice proved to be impossible, although we tried at several places. Abandoning all 
 
 
80 .lorKN'Ai, oi" i.r. WILLIAMSON'S siDi; r,\i'L(ii!.\ii(iNs, coMi'iLr.n ii;nM HIS Noir.s, 
 
 I 1 
 
 lio|io of obtiiiniiif;; {^niss, we at Iciij^tli turned biielc to cmiciiiii|i in tlic niviiiu wliure \V(i liiVil seen 
 water. It wiia utter iliuk when we succeeded in reiicliinj» (Uir destination. 
 
 Sepleiuhcr S. — Ah tlio aiiinials were snlVurin;^ I'nini want of i^rass, and as it was inipo^NJlilc to 
 advance, we went back as liir as tlie whortleberry patcli and encamped (iiere. 1 took a iMl'crenI 
 route, liopinf5 to find it better, but 1 was disajipointed. 
 
 Sfj>lc)nher ',). — In order to make a tliorouj^h exaniinatiou for tlio Indian trail, if any existed, 
 I determined to remain in camp to-day while Bartec went in search of it. He returned at 
 nif^lit, and re[torted that he liad found a trail leadin;^ north from the lake ou wliicli we had 
 encamped on the evening of the tJth. He had followed it, for several miles. As tliere was no 
 other course to pursue, I determined to examine this trail to-morrow. 
 
 September 10. — We foUowod the trail which Ihirteo found yesterday. In five or six miles it 
 joined our trail from the summit of the main ridi^o to tlie lakes. We continued on and encamped 
 at Cauip 40, where we had all separated. We found that Lieut. Crook had mo^'ed the Dejiot 
 camp to Why-chus creek. 
 
 September \{. — I remained in camp to day, and sent to Lieut. Crook for more provisions. 
 My plans for the future were to follow llie trail toward the south and lake any fork leadinj^ 
 to the west, in the hope of reaching tlie Willamette valley. 
 
 September 12. — This morning 1 followed the old trail towards the south, crossed the divide 
 among the Three Sisters, and cncamiied on the mountain brook. 
 
 September 13. — Tiiis morning we fidlowed the Indian trail, with a general southwest course, 
 and crossed the divide of the Cascade Ilange. ilany ridges and ravines rendered the route 
 utterly impracticable for a railroad. In the afternoon the trail forked ; we took the right hand 
 branch, and encaiP[)ed on a little brook bordered with grass. Directly east of our camp tlie 
 summit of the muin ridge was very much lower tliau where we crossed. Tlio night was cloudy. 
 Se}>teinber 14. — This morning the trail led towards the northwest. From a hill covered with 
 whortleberry bushes we obtained a fine view, and saw that our course from the snow mountains 
 had been winding around the heads of some very deep, steep ravines. We descended from this 
 hill to a ravine, and then ascended the opposite ridge, upon which the trail seemed to partially 
 give out. We therefore descended to two little ponds in the midst of a grassy spot, and waited 
 while Bartee searched for it. As he returned unsuccessful, I cncamiied, and sent him again to 
 make a thorough examination. Upon his return, he reported that the trail entirely gave out, 
 and that the country to the west was one mass of rocks and ravines, which were apparently 
 impassable even to Indians. 
 
 September l.j. — I returned today to the forks of the trail, in order to try the other branch. 
 It rained all day, sometimes quite violently, anil we encamped near the forks. 
 September IG. — It rained furiously, and we remaiiiei' in camj). 
 
 Septciiiher 17. — It rained, and we did not leave camp. In the afternoon tliree Indians, with 
 a squaw and horses, arrived from the south. They told us that the trail we had followed, only 
 went a short distance. Beyond were precipices and fallen timber, which could not be crossed, 
 and the only route in this vicinity, to the Willamette valley, was by the wagon road .south of 
 Diamond Peak. I determined to fidlow the left branch of the trail, and try to reach the 
 wagon road. 
 
 September 18.— It was cloudy this morning, with every prospect of rain. Whil'? ivicking 
 to contiiuie our march, the barometer was found to be broken. As it w^s useless to exidore 
 
 I 
 
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 M 
 
 'i i 
 
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JOURNAL OF LT. WILLIAMSON'S SIDE EXPLORATIONS, COMPILED FROM HIS NOTES. 81 
 
 without this instrument, I determined to return to the depot camp. Wo encamped at a 
 small lake. 
 
 September 19. — We attempted this morning to shorten distance by following down Wiiy- 
 chus creek. ; istead of taking the Indian trail. The road proved to be very bad, and nearly as 
 long ae the other. There were miry places at which we had to unpack the mules, and travelling 
 was very slow and difficult. During our absence, Lieutenant Crook had killed a large elk. 
 
 We remained In camp until September 23, when the party arrived from Fort Dalles. They 
 had been delayed by the necessity of sending to Vancouver for provisions. While waiting, I 
 made many astronomical observations, for the purpose of testing the sextant. 
 
 ROUTE FROM CAMP ON WHY-CHUS CREEK, TO VANCOUVER. 
 
 September 23. — I gave Lieutenant Gibson official information that I now only required an 
 escort, composed of Lieutenant Crook, the quartermaster and commissary of the expedition, 
 and Lieutenant Sheridan with the dragoon detachment. After giving Lieutenant Abbot 
 directions to explore, if possible, a route which should cross the Cascade Range, between Mount 
 Hood and Mount Jefferson, I made every preparation for starting to-morrow myself for the 
 wagon road south of Diamond Peak. 
 
 September 24. — I started after ten o'clock this morning, with Lieutenants Crook and Sheridan, 
 Messrs. Fillebrown and Young, and the dragoons. We encamped where the trail crosses and 
 leaves Why-chus creek. 
 
 September 25. — We crossed the divide of the spur from the Three Sisters, aud then tried a 
 new route, which proved to be longer and no better than the former one. We encamped near 
 the river, just below our old Camp G. 
 
 September 26. — To-day we continued our course, and encamped near the junction of the two 
 main forks of the second branch of the Des Chutes river. 
 
 September 27. — This morning we followed down the stream to our former Camp E. We then 
 took a course a little south of east, and struck the south branch, probably about six miles above 
 Camp 37. We next followed the wagon road up the river, and encamped at the place where 
 we had crossed the first time. 
 
 September 28. — This morning we followed up the branch, which must have forked, although 
 we saw no tributary. Wo did not see Camp 36, and the road for half of the distance was on 
 the right bank. I suppose that the branch of the stream which we followed must have been a 
 north fork. We encamped at what appeared to be a general camping place, and wliich proved to 
 be the point where the road leaves the Des Chutes waters for good. A mile or two below camp, 
 the stream apparently received a tributary from the north. 
 
 September 29. — To-day we crossed the main divide. After leaving camp we ascended a colla- 
 teral ridge with a moderate slope, and followed it on an undulating trail until we ascended the 
 main ridge, which it joined just south of Diamond Peak. North of this collateral ridge, and at 
 its base, was a large lake, about ten miles long and two or threo broad. This lake must be the 
 source of the tributary which we saw a mile or two below this morning's camp. The summit is 
 attainable at a moderate grade, by winding, as the hill sides appear practicable. In descendin" 
 we saw to the south of us a large lake, five or six miles in diameter, which is the source of the 
 Middle fork of the Willamette. We descended on a ridge, in many places impracticable for a 
 railroad ; but a descent could be made to the lake, by side location and winding to gain distance. 
 Thence the route would follow down the Middle fork, possibly through a caflon, and doubtless 
 11 X 
 
K2 ,I()l KNAI. OF I/r. WILLIAMSON'.S SIDK EXPLOKATIONS, COMriLKl* I'KOM IMS NOTES. 
 
 through an imnienBcly tlinicult ravine. Grass was very scarce. Several streams coming from 
 hills north of lis were crossed by the trail. 
 
 Scjitemhcr !iO. — We continued to follow the trail, and soon came to the main stream, which 
 we crossed twelve times during the day, and half crossed twice. The road is good for a mountain 
 road, if travelling west. This afternoon the descent was more gradual ; we made a long day's 
 march in order to obtain grass. 
 
 October 1. — Wo continued on the trail, which was pretty bad. It crossed the river eight 
 times, :;hero it was belly-deep to the mules ; T noticed oak for the first time since we left Pit 
 river, excepting a few scattered trees near Klamath lake. Wo marched imtil sunset, when, at 
 last, we came to some poor grass. Bartee killed four deer on the way. 
 
 October 2. — In a little more than a mile from camp wo came to an unoccupied house ; half a 
 mile further on we reached a residence. The grass was poor, but we encamped and purchased 
 some oats. Several animals had broken down on the road. 
 
 October 3. — We remained in camp, and all the animals were recovered, except one dragoon 
 horse. 
 
 October 4. — Wo started this morning for Spore's ferry at McKenzie's fork, leaving three 
 privates and a corporal with the broken down horses, to rejoin Lieut. Gibson on his arrival. 
 We found the country generally level, with a few rolling hills. McKenzie's fork was deep 
 where we crossed, and appeared to contain much more water than the Middle fork. We 
 encamped near Spore's house, where we purchased forage, as there was no grass in the vicinity. 
 
 October 5. — The road to-day was excellent, hiU greatly interrupted by fences. 
 
 October 6. — We made a good march to-day, following along the base of the foot hills. We 
 crossed the south fork of the Santiam river, and found a beautiful valley between that and the 
 north fork, on which we encamped. 
 
 October 7. — We encamped to-night at a house between Butte and Rock creeks. The road lay 
 among the foot hills to-day, which were mostly timbered. 
 
 Lieut. Williamson's journal was not continued after this date. On the following day he 
 passed through a slightly undulating, wooded region to Oregon City, where he encamped on a 
 bluff above the town. On October 9, he proceeded to the bank of the Columbia river, through 
 a country similar ,n character, and encamped opposite Fort Vancouver, where his field-work 
 terminated. He left his party with orders to join mine on my arrival, and sailed for San Fran- 
 cisco himself, to make preparations for the second survey near the sources of Caraon river. 
 
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CHAPTER V. 
 
 NARRATIVE AND mNERARY CONTrNUED.-ROUTES OF DETACHED 
 PARTIES IN CHARGE OF LIEUT. AB«OT. 
 
 FiaST IXPLORATION IN UIH fUUTKH TALIRV.— I'AIITT.— AcCIDKNT.— CJlK-T-Klf IIHOOK.— PllT CARon.— WlLl) VIKW.— ('AfioN or MPTO-LY-AB 
 
 RivKR — Lath arrivai. is cAur-.— Stranhk ciiaractkr of tiik oaSom. — Indian oravb. — Ascbnt of caSon sidr. — I'src-Bii-yuB 
 
 CRKXK AND VaRoN. — ClriT-TlKB CRKKK AND CASoN WaM CHUCK CaSoN. — CJOLD III'NTEBS. — INDIANS. — A EIRIMIISK. — IIOT 
 
 BPKINUS. — Wir,D LATIRAI. aORfll!. — (-AVBS.— lUlIN. — Mul'NTAIN. — Nk-NM Kl'RlNIIS. — MlTTON MOI'NTAINS. — TVBCII PKAIKII. — 
 TyBCII CREKK AND CASoN. — FlRST 8KTn.IMENT. — KvULVN's RANCIIO.— PoTATOKB. — INDIANS. — DbaD RODV DrKAD OP KOCa ItOOT. — 
 
 Waoon road.— Tyscn modntains— Fifteen uii.e crbkk.— Kiiirt milk trkk Five hii.e creek.— Fort Dalleh.— Officers 
 
 TUEBE. — Chinook williau and colonel FREXONT'a buppobed traii,. — Dames of colcudia. — Salmon. — Trip to casi'auks of 
 
 COLUMBIA. — CaPTAIK WELLS. — Mr. COE. — INDIAN IIORIAL PLACE. — WiND MOUNTAINS. — SuilMEROiD FOHEBT. — CASCADES. — IIaroME- 
 TIIIC OBSERVATIONS TO DETERMINE DE3CRST OF RIVER — Ut'RIAL PLACE. — PETRIFACTIONS. — SALMON FISHING. — WiLD EVENING WALK. — 
 
 Measurement or width or Columbia at cascades. — Return to fort dalles. — Start to return to depot camp. — Different 
 ROUTE. — Rain at night. — Humor of oood pass to Willamette. — Larger hot spring near wam chuck riteii. — Indians and 
 
 SALMON IN MPTO-LV-AS CaSoN. — PaPER ON TREK — JuN(m0N WITH MAIN PARTY. — LuNAR RAINBOW AND HALO. — SECOND EXPLORATION 
 IN DE8 CHUTES VALLEY AND CROHSINO OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. — 1'LAN. — PaBTY. — PREPARATIONS. — DIVISION OF PARTY. — StaHT. — 
 
 Trail disappears. — Difficulties. — Lovely view. — Water by digging. — Bright moonlight. — Rain. — Subpbise. — Immense 
 CAfSfoN. — View. — Difficult descent. — Pkdreoal — Travelling on foot. — Crater. — Return to river. — K.xamination of second 
 caRon. — Old Indian trail. — Precipice. — Castle bock. — Uabometer broken. — Travelling down acaSon. — DescuotescaSox. — 
 I'lateau. — Stbange hill. — CaSon gate. — Trap columns. — Mouth of chit-tier creek. — Indians — Re-examination of wam 
 chuck river caSon. — Junction with mil coleman's party. — Rarometrr repaired. — Dr. newberrv sick. — Tvsch oreek 
 AGAIN. — Indian war. — Dibavreeable predicament — Kok-kop. — Reports about pass. — Rainy night. — Indian council. — New 
 guide. — Return to nee-nee springs — Start for Willamette valley. — Wil-la-wit spiungs. — Indian signs. — Wan-nas-sei 
 creek. — Fallen timber. — YAU(ia-PAS-s«.'i meadow. — "Kill the cart." — Great difficulty from fallen timber. — New order of 
 MARCH. — Branch of tybcii creek. — Wat-tim-pa lake. — Oo-lal-le herries. — Delay. — Lu-ah-uum-lu-aii-iium pbairii. — Tv-ty- 
 PA lake. — Game — Mou.nt hood. — Rain. — Triangulation. — Horse abandoned. — Trail disappeaiu). — Indian blazing. — Preci- 
 pice.— High mountain. — K.xtended view. — Magnetic variation. — Very had trail. — View or the Willamette valley. — 
 CaRon. — Disappointment. — Spring of water discovered, — Steep descent into another caSon. — Lake and Indian "stonr 
 HOUSE." — Difficult ascent. — Unpleasant information. — Water and grass reached — Rain. — Anxiety. — Early start. — 
 
 KXECRABLE TRAIL. — ViEW OF THE WILLAMETTE VALI.EY. — PeDREGAL. — FALLEN TIMDEB. — CaMP WITHOUT WATER OR GHAE9. — MlLE 
 
 LOST. — Settlement — News about Indian war — Mii. curbin. — Mule recovered by sam. — Oregon city. — Lieut. Williamson's 
 PARTY. — News. — Less of the escort, with correspondence upon the subject. — Kxtbact from Oregon statesman. — (iov. 
 ruRBY. — Route fbom Vancouver to foht heading, wist of the cascade mountains, — Start. — Salem — Mii. Gordon. — 
 CoRVALLiB. — KuGENB CITY. — Pass tiiroigii calapoova mountains. — Winchester. — Indian war and volunteeiib. — Major 
 Martin. — CaRonville. — Despatch from the battle field. — Umpijua caRox. — Traces of inui,-.n devastation. — Retreat. — 
 
 KSCORT FROM CAPTAIN SMITH — INDIAN DEVASTATIONS — HEROISM OF A WOMAN. — FoKT LANE. — TaULE ROCK. — VaLLEY OF STEH ART 
 CREEK. — IIOT SPRING. — SiBKIVOU MOUNTAINS. — KLAMATU RIVER. — VrKKA. — I.ITTLE KCOTT's MOCSTAlNS—FoHT JONES. — LlEDT. CRUOK 
 DETAINED. — DISAPPOINTMENT.— SNOW. — ScOTT'S VALLEY. — ScoTT'S MOUNTAINS. — TRINITY VALLEY. — TlllNITY MOUNTAINS. — C|,EAB 
 
 CREEK — French odlch — Shasta. — Fort reading again and termination of field work — Lieut. Williamson. — Orders from 
 
 WAB department. — SUBSEQUENT MOVEMENTS, ETC, 
 
 FIRST EXPLORATION IN DE8 CHirrEti VALLEV. 
 
 September C. — I left Camp 40 to-day, with instructions from Lieut. Williamson to proceed to Fort 
 Dalles for provisions, and to examine the Ues Chutes valley, north of the Three Sisters. My 
 party consisted of Mr. Anderson, who greatly assisted me in the astronomical and barometric 
 observations, Dr. Sterling, Mr. Coleman, and eight packers. Lieut, (fibson with Messrs. Daniel 
 and Vinton accompanied me witli a train, to procure provisions for the escort, wliich remained 
 behind in Depot camp to await our return. My instruments consisted of a Gambey sextant and 
 mercurial horizon, one of Green's cistern barometers, No. 1089, a thermometer, and a pris- 
 matic compass. 
 
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 84 
 
 NARKATIVB AND ITINERARY — MI'T0-I.Y-A8 CAlfON. 
 
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 As wc wcro about to start, a liorRo, becoming entangled in the cords of the office tent, threw 
 ft down and broke the barometer. I sent the rest of tlie i>arty forward, and Mr. Auderson and 
 Dr. Stfrling remained with me to repair it. As this detained us about two hours, we were 
 c(im|icllid to travel rapidly to overtake the train, already considerably in advance. Our course 
 lay through a thick ]iine and fir forest. The land gradually descended for about ten miles, 
 when we reoched a fine open prairie, half a mile wide, lying at the foot of the black conical 
 buttc, which Lieut. Williamson had selected as a connecting point for our surveys. A little 
 stream, called by the Indians Que-y-ee, trickled through the prairie, and then disappeared in a 
 small meadow to the eastward. Fine bunch grass was very abundant in this vicinity, and it 
 would have been an excellent camping place. After passing down the stream about a mile wo 
 left it, and, again entering the thick forest, followed for about nine miles the western base of a 
 ridge east of the black butte. It conducted us to the dry bed of a stream. We afterwards found 
 a little water, about two hundred yards below the place where the trail left this bed. About 
 three miles from this point we suddenly found ourselves upon the edge of a ravine, then dry, 
 but doubtless, in the rainy season, the bed of a mountain torrent. The banks were about 300 
 foet high and very steep. It was about two miles wide, and in places thickly timbered. We 
 crossed it, and climbing up the other side soon beheld a prospect whose wild beauty I have 
 seldom seen equalled. The sun was just setting behind the snowy peaks on our left ; before us 
 lay an immense caiion, the sides of which we^ rough with basalt, and heavily timbered with 
 pine and fir. In the dim twilight, which haa already settled in its bottom, we could occa- 
 sionally see^ between the trees, the waters of a large river, called by the Indians Mpto-ly-aa. 
 But we had no time to admire the scenery, for the train was still an unknown distance in 
 advance. We hurried our mules as mst as possible down the rocky side of the canon, which, 
 by actual measurement, was subsequently found to bo 1,200 feet deep. It soon became dark, 
 and we were beginning to anticipate the pleasures of spending the night without food or 
 blankets, when a sudden bend in the trail revealed the cheerful light of the camp fires 
 shining before us on the river bank. 
 
 September 7. — We were encamped in a narrow part of the caiion, and as its steep sides were 
 crowned by vertical walls of columnar basalt, it would have been impossible for a pock mule to 
 get out of it, in most places. There was but little grass near camp. As a plain although 
 very bad Indian trail led out of the caiion on the south side, we followed it for about three miles, 
 hoping that it might lead to a better ford ; but finding that it turned to the south, we returned 
 to our camp ; crossed the river, which is a rushing torrent that swept away and nearly drowned 
 one of the mules ; and then followed down the canon, trying to find a place where we could 
 ascend its northern side. This river cailou is very remarkable. Its sides vary from 800 to 
 2,000 iieet in height. The river has cut down its bed to this immense depth through successive 
 strata of basalt, with occasionally a deposit of infusorial marl and volcanic tufa, which has 
 sometimes hardened into a kind of conglomerate sandstone, ten or twenty feet in thickness, and 
 of a white, gray, or reddish color. Often, as the banks have gradually .eceded, a slender 
 column of this deposit, capped by a huge piece of basalt protecting it from the weather, has been 
 left projecting high above the mass of detritus around it, its sides washed smooth and oftea 
 worn into fanciful forms by the rains of ages. It required but little imagination to see, in these 
 light colored figures, giants and monsters guarding the dark, frowning sides of the caiion. The 
 entire absence of all signs of life, the dull sound of the river rushing over its rocky bed, and 
 the dark green of the stunted cedars and pines, clinging to the precipices which confined it, 
 
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 NAlMtATITR AND ITINKRAKY — PStJC-PrK-Qirr, cniT-TIKF, AND WAM (VIllirK CANONS. 85 
 
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 united with these wild unearthly flguren to gi\ea gloumj desolation to the scene, which was 
 not a little heightened liy a Hnlitary Indian grave. It wan marked by a pile of stoneH, a short 
 stick with a piece of white cloth attached to it, and the skeleton u. a horse, sliot upon the last 
 resting place of his master. 
 
 Wo followed down this cailon for about five miles, when a rocky spur cut off all further pro- 
 gross, and compelled us to attempt the ascent. This, with great difficulty, we accomplished, 
 and found ourselves on a plain, thinly dotted with sage bushes and clumps of grass. Wu 
 continued our course, and, after crossing the bed of a torrent of the rainy season, came to a very 
 small stream called Psuc-see-que by the Indians. It was sunk in a canon about 500 feet deep, 
 cut through successive strata of basalt, infusorial marl, tufas, and conglomerate sandfitone like 
 that found in the Mpto-ly-as cailon. There was a little grass in the narrow bottom and on the 
 sides, and some small cedais, willows, and bushes near the water's edge. Here wo encamped, 
 after a laborious day's marcli, which had brought us but very little nearer tlie end of our journey. 
 The view from our camp was wild and beautiful. Looking up the canon, we could see the snowy 
 summit of Mount Jefferson closing the narrow vista; while the steep banks, with their strongly 
 contrasting colors of black, white, blue, pink, and red, gradually approached each other below 
 our camp, until they formed a narrow gateway, through which we had a glimpse of a little 
 opening in the ravine beyond. 
 
 September 8. — This morning our course lay through a lateral defile, opening out of the Psuc- 
 see-que caiion by a narrow gate, about half way up its northern side. The general character of 
 tlie country was similar to that through which we passed yesterday. In about six miles we reached 
 a line stream called Chit-tike, which was sunk in an enormous canon, 'JOO feet deep, very much 
 resembling that of the Psuc-see-que, except that it had a wider bottom and more bushes on the 
 water's edge. The grass in the bottom was coarse and not very nutritious; but on tliu sides 
 there was a little excellent bunch grass, as is generally the case in these river cnuous. Wo 
 crossed it and entered a narrow gorge which led into a valley, about two miles wide, nearly 
 parallel to the cafion that we had left, and covered with scattered sage bushes and a few stunted 
 cedars. This we crossed, ascended by a steep rise into a small basin surrounded by hills and con- 
 siderably elevated above the valley, climbed another steep hill, and found ourselves on the summit 
 of the northern divide of Chit-tike creek. Before us lay a gradual descent, appearing to reach to 
 the foot of a low ridge, which, after extending in an east and west direction about ten miles, 
 abruptly terminated at each extremity. Portions of the sides of this range were of a brick red color, 
 which gave it a strange appearance at a distance. As we approached, wo found that a caiiou 
 300 feet deep, with steep sides of basaltic rock and red earth, separated us from the foot of the 
 range. It contained a stream of considerable size, called Warn Chuck. In the canon we were 
 mucli surprised to see a party of twenty or thirty white men, who were vainly searching for 
 gold. They had started to explore this barren region, in the hope of discovering new mines; 
 but, as yet, had met with no success. There were also several Indians, who crowded around 
 UB with great surprise and interest. They were delighted beyond measure at a ludicrous 
 accident which happened to one of our party ; who, being very thirsty, and seeing a beautiful, clear 
 spring bubbling from under a rock near the tniil, jumped from his mule, and lying on the ground 
 eagerly filled his mouth with the tempting liquid. He instantly ejected it, however, with looks 
 of wild astonishment, and many grimaces indicative of anything but satisfaction. It was a hot 
 spring with a temperature of 140° Fah. 
 
 Warn Chuck river flows with a rapid cw ■ :■■'■ over a bed of large rounded rocks, which render 
 
86 
 
 NARUATim AMK ITINKHAKT — NRH-NKK BI'RINOM — TYhCH rUAIKIK. 
 
 tlio ford R littlo (liOloult. Thcru are a fuv HtiiiittHl cedars in tlio cailon, but very little graHH wiurro 
 the trail croHSOH it. ItH Imiikn are oilon very precipitouH, and coiupuHed of baaaltio rock, and 
 earth uf variouH rodditth Hhadco. The water of the river in clear and culd ; and it derivcH itH 
 name, Warn Chuck or Alil-lil-Iu Chuck, signifying warm water, from several hot springs uimri 
 its banks. Home of them give off an odor of chlorine, and are partly covered with a thick green 
 scum containing soluble silica. Others seem perfectly clear and pure. The former cIuhh is 
 generally bordered by a white solid deposit from the water. Largo rocks in the vicinity are 
 sometimes incrusted with the same substance. The springs often contain cooked grasshoppers, 
 bugs, and snakes, that have unwittingly taken a warm bath. 
 
 The trail leaves the cauim by a narrow lateral gorge, with sides in many places vertical or 
 even overhanging, and from one to three hundred feet in height. There are large laverns 
 high up in these elill'M, to wliich access without ropes would be impossible. The pass is a vast, 
 narrow gateway, whoso wild beauty defies description. It preserves this character for about 
 a mile, and then suddenly expands into a littlo hatsin surrounded by low mountains, and 
 abounding in very interesting varieties of silicious rock. This basin contains good grass and 
 a spring of pure water, thus forming a better camping • ' .ce than the river canon. We 
 crossed it, and toiling up a rocky mountain, until wo gained an elevation above the basin of 
 about 1,()00 feet, wound round its eaNtern side near the edge of a deep ravine, into which, in 
 many places, a single mis-step would have ]irccipitatcd us. After gaining the northern wide, 
 we passed over low, rolling hills for about t'.vo Jniles, and then crossed the dry bed of a streani 
 in a small ravine. Passing over an elevated country for about three miles, we next came to a place 
 where there were a few small water lioles, apparently excavated by the Indians. About two 
 miles beyond was a very small stream called Nee-nee, or Willow springs. Here we en- 
 camped under a few fine trees. There was an abundance of good bunch grass, and our animals 
 fared better than they had since wo left the main party. The Indians fully appreciate tho 
 excellence of this kind of grass for tlieir horses, and Nee-neo is one of their favorite resorts. 
 We found near camp a large deposit of fine red and white sandstone, which was beautifully 
 stratified. 
 
 September 'J. — After riding this morning among low, rolling hills for about two miles, we 
 reached another moist spot called by the Indians Ily-as Nee-nee, or Great Willow spring. 
 Here the trail forks. We took the right hand branch, which led us, by an ascent of about 
 200 feet, to the northern border of the elevated spur upon which we had been travelling since 
 we left Warn Chuck cailon, and which is named, by the white traders, tho Mutton mountains. 
 About 1,1)00 feet below us lay a sterile, treeless, basaltic j)lain, elevated 2,200 feet above the 
 sea. It is called Tysch prairie. The thickly timbered foot hills of the Cascade Range marked 
 its western border. About thirteen miles north of where we stood, a smooth ridge, yellow with 
 dried grass and unmarked by a single tree, rose abruptly ; and, after extending about thirteen 
 miles in an eastern and western direction, suddenly terminated at each extremity. To tho 
 eastward, beyond the enormous cafion of the Des Chutes river, which we could distinctly trace, 
 the plain became broken by rolling hills, extending as far as the eye could reach. The descent 
 to the prairie was very steep, and we afterwards found that tho left branch of the trail at 
 Hy-as Nee-nee, was much the better of tho two; since it followed tho gradual slope of a ravine, 
 and joined the other soon after gaining tho prairie. This ravine, although entirely dry in tho 
 summer, is, in the rainy season, the bed of a torrent, whose rocky course, near the base of the 
 Mutton mountains, we found bordered by stunted oaks, the first we had seen for many miles. After 
 
 
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NAKUATIVK AND ITINEKAKY — TYSCH CREEK — FOKT DALLES. 
 
 crossing Tysch prairio we reached the edge of the deep caiion of a creek of the same name, 
 which washes the base of the spur forming its northern boundary. We crossed the stream a 
 short distance above the junction of two branches, the first of which was turbid with sand, but 
 the second clear and pure. Both fords were good. There was considerable grass on the 
 sides of this caiion, and a narrow strip of good land in the bottom, and we saw before us, with 
 a feeling of strange pleasure, a settler's log cabin and a fenced field. This rancho, together 
 with a ferry across the Des Chutes river, near the mouth of Tysch creek, belonged to Mr. 
 Evelyn, formerly of Cleveland, Ohio, who treated us with great kindness, both at this time 
 and subsequently. We encamped on the creek, and feasted sumptuously on some fine potatoes, 
 which were fully appreciated, as the want of fresh vegetables had begun to cause scurvy among 
 the party. 
 
 There was, near our camp, a large rancheria of Indians, among whom a disease resembling 
 the cholera had been raging. About thirty had recently died ; and, in accordance with tlieir 
 customs, the relations of the deceased spent their nights among the rocks of the cafion sides, 
 shrieking and howling in lamentation. These sounds, now near, and now remote, were very 
 mournful and impressive as we lay around our camp fire. We felt less sympathy for their 
 affliction, because one of our party, who had found a dead body lying in the bushes near us, 
 had been told rather disdainfully by an Indian to whom he pointed it out, that it was only a 
 prisoner, not worth burying. The ground near thu rancheria was strewed with kous, a root 
 from which they make a kind of very hard bread called "sup-pal-le." It had belonged to 
 their dead, and had, on this account, been thrown away as ill-omened. 
 
 September 10. — The trail this morninr followed up the creek a short distance, and entered a 
 wagon road leading from the Dalles to the Willamette valley. It is very mountainous, and 
 bad for wagons. We had a good specimen of its character while toiling up the range of low 
 trap mountains north of Tysch creek, where the road gained ar elevation of aljut 1,500 feet 
 above the stream, by an ascent in many places so steep, that it was difficult to conceive of 
 heavily loaded wagons passing up or down. After reaching the summit, our course lay over 
 a gently undulating country covered with bunch grass. About ten miles from camp we 
 crossed a small, dry ravine. In about seven miles more wo entered, by a lateral defile, a fine 
 open valley, containing several ranches on the banks of a small, clear stream, called Fifteen 
 Mile creek. The road now became very hilly. Between four and five miles further on, we 
 crossed another stream, called Eight Mile creeek ; ad in two miles more, another, called Five 
 Mile creek. Two miles more brought us to a beautiful valley, and on climbing the hills 
 beyond, a noble panorama burst upon our view. The grand snow peaks of Mount Adams and 
 Mount Hood, connected by dark fir-covered ridges, formed the background. In the distance, 
 the broad Columbia wound through a terraced valley, and disappeared among the mountain 
 gorges ; while in the foreground, our national flag waving over the little town of the Dalles 
 showed us that the wished for goal was won. 
 
 The fort is pleasantly situated on a small creek, about a mile south of the town, and is con- 
 siderably elevated above it. We were received with great kindness by Major Haller, Captain 
 Auger, Lieutenants Forsytho, Macfeeiy, and Dearing, of the 4th infantry, and Dr. Hammond, 
 the officero then stationed at the post. Everything which could contribute to our comfort was 
 thoughtfully supplied during our stay. I am also indebted to Major Haller for giving me much 
 valuable topographical information about the country in the vicinity of the Dalles. 
 
 While waiting for provisions from Vancouver, I had an interview wi\,h William, a Cbinook 
 
88 
 
 NARRATIVK AND ITINERARY — DALLES OV THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 W 1 
 
 Indian whom Colonel Fremont carried, in 1843, to the eastern States to be educated. I asked 
 him very particularly about a summer trail up the Des Chutes valley, which Colonel Fremont 
 was informed lay nearer the Cascade mountains than the one he followed. The Indian assured 
 me that there was no such triil, and that, "if I wanted to take my pack mules through that 
 region, I must go first with pick and shovel and make a trail, and then return for the animals." 
 Although I questioned many white men and Indians about this trail, I could never find 
 one that had even heard of it, and I am satisfied, from my own subsequent explorations, that 
 none such exists. Colonel Fremont was, undoubtedly, misled by false reports ; and the trail 
 seen by him on December 4, 1843, probably terminated, like many which disappointed us in 
 the same vicinity, in a whortleberry patch. 
 
 At the Dalles of the Columbia, situated a short distance above the town, the river rushes 
 through a chasm only about 200 feet wide, with vertical basaltic sides rising from 20 to 30 feet 
 above the water. Steep hills closely border the chasm, leaving, in some places, scarcely room 
 on the terrace to pass on horseback. The water rushes through this basaltic trough with such 
 violence, that it is always dangerous, and in some stages of the water impossible, for a boat to 
 pass down. The contraction of the river bed extends for about three miles. Near the lower end 
 of it, the channel divides into several sluices and then gradually becomes broader, until, near 
 the town where it makes a great bend to the south, it is over a quarter of a mile in width. The 
 Dalles is a favorite fishing resort for the Indians ; and we saw, on the river bank, many piles 
 of salmon which they had preserved for winter use. There are many fine specimens of columnar 
 basalt in this vicinity, and the banks rise in low basaltic terraces, which, on the northern side 
 opposite the town, .ire very rough and broken. 
 
 Our provisions arrived from Vancouver on September 16, and my men immediately began to 
 prepare them for transportation on the pack mules. 
 
 September It. — To-day I went, by steamboat, to make a rough reconnaissance of the river as 
 far down as the Cascades, and to determine its descent there, leaving orders with Mr. Coleman 
 to start for the Depot camp as soon as the provisions were ready. A small steamboat runs 
 from the Dalles to the Cascades, where there is a land portage four miles and a half in length. 
 From its lower terminus, another steamboat runs to Vancouver, and thence to Portland in the 
 Willamette valley. I feel under great obligations to Captain W. B. Wells, the chief proprietor 
 of this line of steamboats, and to Jlr. L. W. Coe, an artist by profession, but now connected 
 with the company, for their personal kindness, and for the valuable topographical information 
 which they furnished. 
 
 In passing down the Columbia from the Dalles, the natural scenery was of the most magnificent 
 description. The river soon entered a gorge of the Cascade Range, and wound through a wilder- 
 ness of mountains, whoso silent grandeur was truly impressive. In about ten miles we passed 
 the narrow entrance of the canon of Klik-a-tat river, a mountain stream flowing from the north. 
 Soon afterwards we passed the Mam-a-loos islands, the lonely resting place of a departed nation of 
 red men, whoseboneslay bleaching in the sun. The method of burial had been very simple. Four 
 stakes, interlaced with twigs and covered with brush, formed a tomb, which had been gradually 
 filled with dead bodies, and then abandoned to the wind and rain. Ten miles more brought us 
 to Dog llivcr valley, a little, jertilespot extending towards Mount Hood, and forming a pleasing 
 contrast to the savage mountains by which it was bordered. Nearly opposite was the mouth of 
 White Salmon river, which struggled through a narrow gorge opening towards Mount Adams. 
 About ten miles further on, we passed on the northern bank Wind mountain, a round isolated 
 
 wn 
 
NAKHATIVE AND ITINERARY — CASCADES OF THE COLUMBIA, 
 
 89 
 
 peak so steep that to ascend it from the river side would probably be impossible. Near its base 
 is the mouth of a small stream called Wind river, which aiJjieaK'd to be formed by the junc- 
 tion of two branches behind the mountain. On the opposite bank the ridges, rising very abruptly 
 from the river, seemed to be formed of loose stones, which would render excavation for a road 
 very difficult and dangerous. 
 
 It is in this vicinity that the celebrated submerged forests are mostly found. They consist of 
 numerous dead trees, stripped of their smaller branches, but still standing upright in tiie deep ^vater 
 near the river banks, and presenting every appearance of having grown there. As these trees 
 could never have grown under water, their present position has given rise to much speculation. 
 It has been suggested that they may have been transplanted from the neighboring mountains 
 by vast avalanches. It is possible that this may be true in a few places, but not in all, as they 
 are sometimes found where the position of the mountains precludes the idea. Another theory, 
 which I think much more plausible, is, that formerly a great slide occurred at ihe Cascades, 
 about fifteen miles below Wind mountain, and formed a dam; which, by raising the water above 
 it, submerged and killed the forests growing on tlie banks. The appearance of the Cascades 
 tends to confirm this idea. For four miles and a half the river rushes through a gorge, bordered 
 by high and very precipitous ridges, and only about nine hundred feet wido in the naTowcst part. 
 Above, it expands into a kind of lake, about a mile and a half in width, containing several islands. 
 
 We reached the landing above the Cascades early in the aftarnoon, and were much pleased to 
 find that it was not raining there, as it very often does in September. I took a careful reading 
 of the barometer at the water's edge near the landing, and another at the foot of the principal 
 rapid, about a quarter of a mile below; su1>sequent calculations give a difference of level of ."54 
 feet between these stations. I then walked with Captain Wells to the lower landing, about four 
 miles and a half from where we first went on shore, and took a third reading ; from which the 
 total descent in that distance was afterwards found by computation to be 61 feet. During high 
 water ihe portage is much shortened, as the boats can ascend nearly to the foot of the principal 
 rapid 
 
 Tiie wild grandeur of this place, for which Rapids would be a more appropriate name than 
 Cascades, surpasses description. The river rushes furiously over a narrow bed filled with 
 boulders and bordered by mountains, which echo back the roar of the waters. The path, winding 
 through a thick forest on the northern bank, suddenly crosses an Indian burial place, where 
 whitened bones strew the ground on every S'de, and fill one with amazement at the vast numbcrp 
 of the dead. Petrifactions are abundant ; and stumps closely resembling those of trees recently 
 cut, are often found to be solid rock, with bark and woody fibre perfectly preserved. Salmon 
 pass up the river in great numbers ; and the Cascades, at certain seasons of the year, are a 
 favorite fishing resort with the Indians, who build slight stagings over the water's edge, and 
 spear the fish, or catch them in rude dip nets, as they slowly force their way xip against tlie cur- 
 icnt. I passed through a rancheria of these savages, on my return in tlie evening from the 
 lower landing. Their hideous faces, strongly painted on the darkness behind them by the 
 flickering light of the fire around which they were crouching, and their mournful howls blended 
 with the baying of their dogs at ray intrusion, harmonized well with the ceaseless roar of the 
 river, and the gloom of the forest cemetery, among the dry bones of which I turned to fc,ropo 
 my way. 
 
 Sejttember 18. — This morning I returned by steamboat to Fort Dalles, after measurin" 
 the width of the river, by triangulation, in two places near the principal rapid. It proved to 
 12 X 
 
 i 
 
90 
 
 NARRATIVE AND ITINKRARY — RE.IOIN MAIN PARTY. 
 
 Irif 
 
 bo 907 feet in one place, and 1,811 feet in the other. As my train had already started for tho 
 depot camp, I Hettlod all ac(f)unts, and made every preparation for following it on the next 
 morning. Dr. fSterling here left the party. 
 
 September ID. — Starting alone this morning to overtake the train, I travelled over the same 
 road as in coming, as far as Fifteen Mile creek, and then followed a pack trail np a long and 
 gently sloping ravine. In about 10 mik's it conducted to the wagon road again, 3 miles from 
 Tysch mountains. By a little side cutting, a road could be made in this ravine, shorter and 
 better than the one at present used, I overtook my party at Tysch creek, and encamped there. 
 We slept, as usual, without tents, and a shower in the middle of the night gave us an unpleasant 
 surprise. It was but a poor consolation to reflect that they might now be expected at any time, 
 as the rainy season had commenced. 
 
 Sejjtcmher 20. — This morning a half-breed informed me that there was a good pass to the 
 Willamette valley, through a slight visible depression in the mountains near Mount Hood. 
 This information had an important efl'ect upon our future m»vements. To-day we continued 
 our journey back over the trail by which we had come, and encamped at Nee-nee springs. 
 
 September 21. — At Warn Chuck river I examined a warm spring larger than any I had seen 
 beibre. The great flat rock tlirough which it rose, seemed unstable, for stepping on it caused 
 the water to bubble up more freely. The spring seemed to flow from a number of small holes 
 in a place 15 or ?0 feet in diameter, and its temperature was 14o° Fahrenheit. It was on the 
 northern bank o; the river, about a quarter of a mile above the point where the trail crossed. 
 Access to it was rather difficult, on account of the narrow character of the caiion, but it well 
 repaid the trouble of a visit. We encamped on Chit-tike creek. 
 
 beptember 22. — To day we encamped, at the same ]dace as before, in the Mpto-ly-as river 
 cafion. Here we met a party of Indians, with their squaws and children, travelling north. 
 They caught several salmon in tiie river ; one of which, weighing about twenty-five pounds, 
 we bought. They spear the fish with barbed iron points, fitted loosely by sockets to the end 
 of polef about eight feet long. When the point pierces the fish, it separates from the end of 
 the pole, but remains strongly secured to it by a thong about twelve feet in length. This 
 prevents the salmon from breaking the pole in his struggles. A member of our party shot 
 witii a pistol and secured one of these fish, of which there were many in the river. Our 
 animals suflered from want of grass to-night. 
 
 September 23. — To day we followed the old trail to tho "black butte," where we found a 
 paper on one of the trees, stating that the main party was in camp on Why-chus creek, about 
 seven miles towards the south. We struck through the woods, and soon saw the white tents 
 in an open prairie covered with grass and bordtred by fine timber. Near it, tho brook 
 Que-y-ee, after spreading out into a meadow, disappeared. This little opening, amid forest-clad 
 mountains and grand snow jieaks, furnished a camping place, the wild beauty of which I have 
 seldom seen equalled. This was enhanced, in the evening, by a magnificent lunar rainbow, 
 and a beantifully tinted halo round tho moon ; both of which appeared at the same time in 
 different quarters of the heavens. It is a singular coincidence that Col. Fremont, the only 
 exphtrer who ever preceded us in this region, saw the same rare phenomenon of a lunar rain- 
 bow, witliiu about t„enty miles of this spot, in 1843. 
 
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NAHIJATIVi: AND ITINERARY — FINAL SKPARATIOX. 
 
 01 
 
 SECOND EXf'LOHATION IN UES Clin'KS VALLEY, AND CUOSSINU OT THK CASrADL MOUNTAINS, 
 
 September 24. — The party agiiiri sopariited at Cainp S on Wliy-clms creek. Limt. William- 
 son disijensed with the future Hervices of all tlio escort, except Lieut, Slieriilan, with hisdraj^oon 
 detachment of twenty-five men, and Lieut. Crook, the quartermaster and commissary of the 
 expedition. Accompanied by this small party, with Jlessrs Fillebrown, Youn<;, Burtee, and 
 three packers, he started to cross the mountain^ near Diamond Peak, and follow down the 
 Willamette valley to Vancouver. Lieut, (jibson, with the rest of the escort, started for Fort 
 Lane. Dr. Newberry, Mr. Anderson, Mr. Coleman, and fourteen packers, with all the spare 
 animals and most of the baggage, remained with me in camp. My orders were to explore the 
 mountains to the north ; cross them where I best could ; and rejoin Lieut. Williamson at Van- 
 couver. Not anticipating any Indian troubles, we considered my party sufficiently strong 
 for this purpose. The day was spent in recruiting the animals, and in repairing a broken 
 barometer. 
 
 September 25. — In the morning we travelled about eight miles towards the base of the 
 " black butte," and encamping on Que-y-ee brook, near where we had crossed it in going to 
 the Dalles, spent the rest of the day in completing our arrangements. I had already seen that 
 no railroad could be built in the valley near the Des Chutes river. It now remained to explore 
 the region near the eastern base of the foot hills. Having about eighty animals, many of 
 which were almost broken down, I decided to divide my command, and examine the unknown 
 region with a light scouting party, while Mr. Coleman, in charge of the rest of the train, 
 should return by our former trail to Nee-nee springs, and recruit tlie animals on the excellent 
 bunch grass there, until I should join him. 
 
 The brook Que-y-ee, near camp, was clear and cold, but rendered difficult of accjss by thick 
 bushes, and in some places by miry banks. There was plenty of bunch grass in the vicinity, 
 but the dense forest which surrounded us rendered the loss of animals probable. 
 
 September 26. — This morning we separated. My little party consisted of Mr. Anderson, Dr. 
 Newberry, myself and eight men. We took eleven days' provisions, and twelve pack mules 
 loaded with only seventy-five pounds each, as I anticipated many difficulties on our unknown 
 route. We followed ou. old trail to the point where it forked, about nine miles from camp, 
 hoping that the western branch might lead to the foot hills ; but it almost immediately terminated 
 in an old Indian rancheria, near which there was a little water in the bed of the creek that we 
 had found dry at the fork. Disappointed in the trail, I endeavored to take a northwest course by 
 compass. The pine forest was very thick ; the pumice-stone soil was so light that our mules 
 sank over the fetlock at every step ; and the fallen timber and thick underbrush continually 
 obstructed our way. We toiled slowly up a long, gradual ascent, now turning to the right and 
 now to the left to avoid the fallen timber, until we were forced, by some impenetrable underbrush, 
 into a slight ravine, in which were a few pools of water. Fighting our way with great difficulty 
 among the logs which filled the bottom, we climbed its northern side, and entered a small open 
 space dotted with a few clumps of grass. The men were directed to herd the jaded animals in 
 this breathing spot, while Dr. Newberry and I crawled over the dead trees into another ravine, 
 northeast of us, to search for water. Finding none, we all struggled on towards the west, fully 
 expecting, as the sun was low, to encamp in the forest without water or grass. Before halting, 
 however, we suddenly reached the summit of a slight precipice ; at our feet lay a fine little 
 prairie, about a quarter of a mile long, covered with the richest bunch grass, and bordered on 
 
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 92 
 
 NARRATIVK AM) ITINKHAIJV — ITI'ER MPTO-LY-AS CANON. 
 
 every Hide by tliick forests of piiio and fir. Beyond it, the sun, wliicli had nearly set behind 
 Mount Jeflerson, crowned hJH Huowy liend witli crimson and gohl, and threw an indescribable 
 glory over the tangled mass of mountains at his feet. We descended, and began eagerly to 
 search for water ; but found none. Still, as it was too late to go I'urther, we encamped ; and, 
 by digging a hole about three feet deep in a moist sjjot, succeeded in obtaining enough muddy 
 water for ourselves, but not for the animals. The little prairie was evidently, in the rainy 
 season, a meadow in which a tributary of Mpto-ly-as river heads. Mr. Anderson in following 
 down its bed through the forest found a little water, about a quarter of a mile from camp ; but 
 it was dark before he returned. The moon seemed very bright in the pure mountain air, and I 
 easily wrote my journal by its light. 
 
 September 27. — This morning it rained. After following a westerly course through the wet 
 bushes for about a quarter of a mile, we suddenly saw tlie light breaking through the dense 
 forest before us, and, hoping that we were approaching another prairie, pressed eagerly 
 forward. We soon stopped in blank amazement on the verge of an immense cai\on, which 
 was found by subsequent measurement to be 1,945 feet deep. Far below us we heard the roar 
 of a mountain torrent. Opposite rose, steep and black, and hitherto unseen by civilized man, 
 the naked base of Mount Jefferson, while around it clustered gloomy, fir-covered mountains, 
 whose tops were hidden in rolling masses of clouds. The canon side below us was so steep and 
 rocky that we feared the descent would be impracticable. I directed the animals to be herded, 
 and sent three men to explore it, while Dr. Newberry and I followed along the edge about 
 half a mile to a projecting clifi", from which we could obtain a better view of the country. It 
 had ceased raining, and the heavy clouds which shrouded the opposite mountains rose slowly 
 until a noble panorama lay outspread before us. The river came from the south in an enor- 
 mous canon, and, after washing the base of Mount Jefferson, disappeared in a northerly 
 direction. Into this canon two others opened in front of us, one containing a small tributary 
 from the west, the other winding out of sight towards the north, apparently in the direction which 
 we wished to explore. The bottom of the latter appeared to be free from trees, and to rise with a 
 very gentle slope. Much elated by the prospect of escaping from fallen timber, we returned to the 
 rest of the party, and began the descent to the river. Slowly and with great difficulty we 
 forced our animals, now along narrow ledges of dark gray slate, where a mis-step would have 
 precipitated them to instant destruction, now down steep slopes of loose rocks of the same 
 oharacter, masses of which, becoming dislodged, rolled down the precipice, and starting others 
 in their course filled the cailon with reverberating echoes. After winding about in this manner 
 for nearly three quarters of a mile, we at length reached the bottom in safety. It was about 
 three hundred yards wide, bordered by pines and thickly carpeted with fine bunch grass. A 
 river, which I knew must be the Mpto-ly-as, flowed through it, apparently unfordable from its 
 depth and velocity. Its banks were abrupt and lined with willows, and its bed was full of 
 boulders. After liding up the canon about a half a mile, we at length discovered a very bad 
 rocky ford, but some of the animals mired in getting out of the water. We then turned 
 towards the north, and crossing the western cailon near its mouth, found in it a small stream 
 with very miry banks, and an old Indian trail. On reaching the second lateral caiion we found, 
 to our bitter disappointment, that the absence of trees in its bottom was due to a mass of com- 
 paratively modern lava, divided in every direction by deep fissures, which rendered it totally 
 impassable to our animals, and almost so to ourselves. It had flowed from the eastern side of 
 Mount Jeflerson, and had cooled so rapidly as to leave a narrow strip of the valley, on each side, 
 
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NARRATIVK AND ITIXElUnY — MOINT .IKFFEHSON — f'ASTI.K HOCK. 
 
 93 
 
 imcovercil. Tlieso HtripH woro about tun foet lower flian the Hurliico ol' tho liivft field, and 
 denHcly filled witli firH ftiul pities. Ice-cold lirookH, from the ineltiiig hiiow on Mount Jelferson, 
 waHlied the edges of tlio pedregal, and occasionally Hjiiead into narrow Hwamps extending to 
 tlie steep sides of the canon, and completely clioked with huslicc. Hoping to ho able to force 
 our way through these obstacles, wo struggled desperately up tho aoutiiwestern edge for about 
 three miles. A projecting spur liere closed in abruptly upon tho lava, and rendered further 
 advance impossible. Leaving tlio rest of tiio party with the jaded animals, I crossed the stream 
 on a natural bridge formed of an old log, climbed up the side of the lava field, and sometimes 
 leaping over yawning fissures, sometimes winding around them, gradually advanced about a 
 quarter of a mile to what appeared to be a small crater. It was nearly circular in form, and about 
 two hundred yards in diameter, with the lower side partly broken away. A more utterly 
 desolate spot cannot be conceived. No sign of life was visible. Rough masses of dark lava lay 
 piled around like the waves of a stormy sea. Fir-clad mountains reared their inaccessible 
 summits on every side, apparently cutting oft' retreat; while Mount Jefferson, without one 
 intervening ridge, towered high above all, rugged with precipices and capped with glittering 
 snow. It was a spot where, in all probability, no human foot had ever before intruded, for 
 even the wild children of the forest abandon it to tho fiends and demons of their traditions. 
 
 A high ridge from Slount Jefferson terminated the canon, and rendered further exploration 
 unnecessary, as well as impossible. I returned to the party, ond we retraced our steps to the 
 little stream flowing from the westerly canon, and encamped there, with an abundance of fine 
 grass and ice-cold water. 
 
 September 28. — Being unwilling to leave without examination the western cafion, where we 
 had ser the Indian trail, Mr. Anderson and myself, with two men, started to explore it this 
 morning, leaving the rest of tho party in camp. We soon struck tho trail, and followed it for 
 about four miles up a little wooded gorge, which gradually turned towards the south. 
 
 Here we found that our "black butte" was in sight, and that the trail apparently led to the 
 prairies near it, through a straight and level valley. We accordingly turned back, fully satisfied 
 that the only way of advancing to the north was to travel down the Mpto-ly-as canon. On 
 breaking up camp wo followed the old trail, which took this course. It led us below the lava 
 field, across the two brooks which had flowed by its sides, and then up a long, gentle slope, 
 through an open forest of pine, larch, and fir. We were beginning to congratulate ourselves 
 on the excellence of the trail, when, about six miles from camp, we were suddenly stopped by 
 another precipice bordering the river, and more than 1,000 feet deep by measurement. From 
 the summit, I could see that the ridge, which I had already observed extending from Mount 
 Jefierson to a black peak, continued beyond it, and, without any marked depression, now formed 
 the north side of the river canon, which began to turn towards the east. With much difficulty 
 gaining the river bottom, which was here filled with a tangled mass of small trees and bushes, 
 we toiled on for about throe miles further, and then encamped iua narrowstrip of fine bunch grass. 
 Both sides of the canon were here about 1,500 feet high ; and opposite us, some 800 feet above 
 the water, was a large mass of gray conglomerate sandstone, so much resembling the ruins of 
 an old castle that we could hardly believe it the work of nature. It rose abruptly from the 
 dark foliage around it, with its battlements, turrets, and towers, bathed in the light of the 
 setting sun — a fitting home for the presiding genius of this wild torrent of the mountains. 
 
 September 29. — After travelling a few miles down the cafion to-day, the barometer began to 
 leak badly from a crack in the glass cistern. As all the materials for properly repairing it were 
 
04 
 
 NAIJHATIVK AM» ITINKRAUY — DKS Cllt TKS (ANON. 
 
 11 i 
 
 with Mr. CNili'iimn, I iU'ci(K'(l, ratlior tlinn to run the risk of ruinin;? it hy tranNportin^ it in its 
 j)r('Ni'nt conilition, to remove tlie mercury, and rephice it iifter rejo',nin<( him. 
 
 Ahdtidonin^, therefore, my intention of leiivinp the river «•. Hoon lis ixiNMiblo und furtlier 
 exjdoring for a railroad pass near tho moiintainH, which the hms of tlio barometer rendered 
 inexpeilient, I foUowed down tiie canon about eleven mile.s, to whore wo had cros.sed it in going 
 to the Dalles. The trail was rendered execral)le by numeroiis steep spurs, whieh ran out to the 
 very water's edge, and compelld us to toil up sometimes as high as r>()0 feet, and then abruptly 
 descend again. Wo began to find concretes and tufas on tiie sides of tho cafion as wo approached 
 our old camping place; but thoro was none of this formation near Mount Jefferson. At ono 
 place there were a few rudo pictures of men and animiils scratched on the rocks by some 
 wandering savage. On the march to-day we shot and secured one of the fino salmon which 
 abound in the river, and which are highly prized by the Indians for winter food. Three streams, 
 flowing in deep caHons, entered the river from the north. One of them showed, by tho milky 
 color of its water, that it came from the melting snows of Mount Jefferson, and thus i)roved that 
 tho country between us and Chit-tiko creek was furrowed by at least ono enormous ravine, which 
 could not be headed. After reaching our old trail, we followed it to Psuc-seo-quo creek, and 
 encamped there after sunset ; having travelled twenty-one miles to-day over a most difficult route. 
 
 September 30. — As it was highly desirable to determine accurately the position and character 
 of tho canon of tho Des Chutes river, I started this morning, with one man, to follow down the 
 creek to its mouth, leaving tho rest of tho party in camp. Having yesterday experienced tho 
 jileasures of travelling in the bottom of a cafion, I concluded to-day to try the northern blufT. 
 It was a dry, barren plain, gravelly and sometimes sandy, with a few bunches of grass scattered 
 here and there. Tracks of antelopes or deer were numerous. After crossing one small ravine, 
 and riding about five miles from'camp, we found ourselves on tho edge of the vast canon of the 
 river, which, far below us, was rushing through a narrow trough of basalt, slightly resembling 
 the Dalles of the Columbia. We estimated the depth of the cafion at 1,000 feet, but I think it 
 would bo found to be deej)er, if measured. On each side, tho precipices were very steep, and 
 marked, in many places, by horizontal lines of vertical basaltic columns fifty or sixty feet in 
 height. The man who was with me rolled a largo rock, shaped like a gripdstone and weighing 
 about 200 pounds, from the summit. It thundered down, foratleastaquarter of amile, now over 
 a vertical precipice, now over a steep mass of detritus, until, at length, it plunged into the river 
 with a hollow roar, which echoed and re-echoed through the gorge for miles. By ascending a 
 slight hill which rose from the plain, I obtained a fine view of the surrounding country, and 
 many valuable bearings to the mountain peaks. Tho generally level character of the great 
 basaltic table land around us was very manifest from this point, although, near the trail, it is 
 marked by a continual succession of deep ravines. Bounded on the west by the Cascade moun- 
 tains, and on tho north and east by the Mutton mountains, the plain extends far towardu the 
 south, a sterile, treeless waste. At the mouth of tho Psuc-see-que cafion there is a singular hill 
 isolated from the plain. Its top is a nearly circular floor of basalt, surrounded by vertical 
 precipices about forty or fifty feet deep, and then by a collection of detritus, sloping down at an 
 angle of about 45° to the level of the river. 
 
 In returning to the camp, we tried the canon of the creek, which we found very narrow and 
 stony, and often so obstructed by bushes as to compel us to climb along its steep sides. About 
 a mile below camp it narrowed into a wild, natural gateway, the top of which, elevated about 
 500 feet above the creek, was formed of two vertical precipices of columnar basalt, each about 
 
NAIUIATIVK AND ITINKRAHV — NKK-NI.i: Kl'KINOS AdAIN. 
 
 05 
 
 100 feet deep, and Bcpnrtited 800 fwt iVoiii tlio otiior. From thoMe procipiccH, pilcH of detritiiM 
 Hlopcd down at an angle of 45" to tlic little hIIvct thread of water wiiidinj; between tlu'in. Tliu 
 lin^^o mckH in tlio bnttotn ('(iinpi'lli'd uh to ciiinl) iihont luiU way up tlii.s Nlope to elKi't ii paNmijtc 
 The line of coliiinnH on tlio top of the mn'tlu'in nidu was Nlraiigely bent and diNtorted, uh if, 
 wliilo they were in a Heini-iluid Htute, a lingo crag had fallen anionj^ tlient ; those on the sonthern 
 bank were very Htraight and \erticul. 
 
 Wo travelled to-day to Ohit-tiko ereek, and encamped there. Dr. Newberry and I f(dlowed 
 its bed, on foot, about two and a half miles, to the Ues Chnten river. We found il ". >itep, 
 Hwift stream, 80 yards wide, and still sunk in the enormous canon, which, I have nodoult, 
 cxtendfl about 140 miles above its mouth. Tho Chittiko carton in much wider than that of 
 I'suc-Hee-iiue, and there is ft good trail leading to the river in its bottom. It was dark before 
 wo rejoined tlio party ; and the camp fires, shining among the bushes, formed a striking con- 
 trast to the gloom of tho rafion as wo approached. 
 
 Ocloher 1. — On reaching Wam-Chuck river this morning, we found a largo number of Indians 
 encamped there, who were very desiroiis to trade jiotatoes for matches and ammunition. 
 Sending tho party forward to join Mr. Coleman at Nee-nee, Dr. Newberry and I stojiped to 
 examine more fully this most interesting locality. Had wu known that these savages were on 
 the point of joining in a general war against the whites, we might have felt less curiosity. As 
 it was, we visited the warm spring, which I had seen on September 21 ; examined the lateral 
 gate cafion ; collected several interesting geological specimens ; and then climbing to the 
 summit of the motintains, round the eastern side of which the trail winds, obtained a very 
 extensive view of this strange, picturesque valley. Tho great number of compass bearings that 
 I took from this and many other commanding points, cover tho whole region with a '.et work 
 of triangles, which, I think, cannot fail to render the accompanying map of this section (luito 
 accurate. 
 
 We reached Nec-nee springs a little while before sunset, and found Mr. Coleman and his 
 party awaiting us. He had met with no difliculty, except in transporting tho battered pair of 
 wheels to which our odometer was attached, and which, out of compliment to its f,)rmor estate, 
 still retained the name of the "little cart." Much credit is certainly duo to him, con.sidering 
 the small number of his party^ for getting even this up and down some of the precipitous cafion 
 sides on the route. He reported that tho jaded animals had been greatly benefited by the lich 
 bunch grass, which abounded in this vicinity. 
 
 October 2. — To-day we remained in camp. I Kuccecded in repairing the cistern of the baro- 
 meter by covering the crack with Husband's adhesive plaster, and then applying a coat of 
 eealing wax dissolved in alcohol, to protect it fiom moisture. I re-filled tho instrument, and 
 had no further trouble with it on the survey. I also obtained good observations of the sun to- 
 day. In the afternoon Dr. Newberry, who had been suffering for some time from fever and ague, 
 was taken dangerously ill. We were all |uite anxious on his account, as a bottle of arsenic 
 had been broken in the m.dicine chest, and none of us, excepting himself, had any knowledge 
 of the healing art. 
 
 October 3. — This morning Dr. Newberry was much better, and able to ride, with two men and 
 myself, to Tysch creek. Lieutenant Williamson had authorized him to proceed to Vancouver 
 by water, to examine certain coal mines in Washington Territory. I proposed to return on the 
 following day to my party, after obtaining, if possible, a guide acquainted with the new pass 
 near Mount Hood, of which the half-breed had spoken. On reaching Mr. Evelyn's house, we 
 
!l 
 
 96 
 
 NARRATIVE AND ITINERARY — INDIAN WAR. 
 
 I 
 
 if 
 
 i 
 
 heard some astounding news. A general Indian war had broken out ; the Indian agent of 
 Washington Territory and several other whites had been murdered ; and ^Tajor Haller, with a 
 large force of United States troops, had gone to meet the hostile tribes. All the settlers south of 
 the Dalles had already fled from their ranchos, except Mr. Evelyn, and he had sunk his ferry 
 boat, and was about to tbllow them the next morning. The situation of our little half-armed 
 party, consisting of only seventeen men, now that Dr. Newberry was about to leave us, was any- 
 thing but enviable. Encumbered with a large number of jaded animals and considerable bag- 
 gage, we suddenly found ourselves anning hostile and well-armed Indians, to whom our train 
 would render us a tempting prey. A difficult and almost unknown range of mountains, now 
 liable at any time to be blocked up with snow, separated us from the Willamette valley. Each of 
 the three known passes across it seemed almost impracticable for us; thai of the Columbia river, 
 on account of the impossibility of obtaining a flat-boat to cross to the northern bank above the 
 Cascades, while the war was raging in the immediate vicinity ; and the wagon road, and the 
 pack trail north of Mount Hood, on account of the entire absence of grass, which would render 
 the loss of a largo number of our almost broken down animals inevitable. I had a long conver- 
 sation with the half-breed about the new pass. Ho said it was much more level than either of 
 the others, and was well supplied with grass, but that the trail was so slight, and had so many 
 forks leading to whortleberry patches, that a guide would be absolutely necessary. He positively 
 refused to accompany me himself, being, as he said, afraid of tlie Indians. Feeling very much 
 inclined to attempt the exploration of this pass, which, should the description prove true, would 
 be very valuable for a wagon road, if not for a railroad, I inquired of Mr. Evelyn whether 
 none of the little band of Indians, whose rancheria was near his house, could be trusted as a 
 guide. He told me that, although they had not yet joined the hostile tribes, they had stolen 
 several of his horses lately, and were growing rather insolent. Still he thought that their old 
 chief, named Kok-kop, might be trusted a little while longer. As Major Haller had mentioned 
 this Indian in high terms to me, I resolved to see him. To my surprise, he said that he knew 
 notliing of this pass, and had never heard of it. This threw discredit upon the whole story, 
 especially as half-breeds are noted for their strong imaginations. It was now evening. To 
 guard against any sudden attack, I had the animals carefully tied to a strong fence; and 
 dividing the night into three watches, took one myself and gave one to each of the men. It was 
 very dark and cloudy, with occasionally a few drops of rain, and I could not but feel that ou) 
 prospects were rather gloomy. 
 
 October 4. — This morning Kok-kop informed me that he had found a young man of his tribe 
 who had been through this pass, and who would go as guide. As our chance of getting safely 
 through the mountains with our animala, except by steamboat, which my instructions expressly 
 forbade, was nearly desperate, I decided to trust him, and gratify my desire of exploring the 
 ])ass. After the long and ceremonious council which Indians always require on great occasions, 
 I succeeded in hiring the young man, on reasonable terms ; or rather in bargaining with his 
 chief for liiiu, as he himself had no voice in the matter. Tlie interview terminated by Kok-kop 
 giving him strict orders to be obedient to me, and by my presenting Kok-kop with a red silk 
 handkerchief. 
 
 Leaving Dr. Newberry to go to the Dalles with Mr. Evelyn, we returned to the rest of the party, 
 with the new guide whose name was Sam An-ax-shat. He was about eighteen years old, and 
 a very intelligent, neat, and, as the result proved, trustworthy Indian. For natural intelligence, 
 ho would compare very favorably with moat white men. He spoke no Euj^lisb, but, fortunately. 
 
NAUUATIVK AND ITINKKAKY — CASCADK MOUNTAINS. 
 
 97 
 
 To 
 
 • I luid acquired some knowledge of the Chinook language, and we were able to converse with 
 considerable case. After reaching camp, which we found undisturbed, we made every jjrepara- 
 tion to start to-morrow for the Willamette valley. 
 
 October 5. — This morning we followed a westsrly course, near the southern slope of the 
 Mutton mountains, through a slightly undulating region, covered with bunch grass and 
 destitute of trees. After crossing a largo trail leading from Tysch creek to Warn Chuck 
 river, we pa.^sed over a slight spur from the Mutton mountains, and winding round the 
 northern base of r. prominent hill called Wah'-nit-ched, came upon a fine open prairie. Before 
 long the trail suddenly turned towards the north round a steep hill, and we entered the forest, 
 which extended almost without interruption to the Willamette valley. To-day it was open, 
 without any fallen timber or bushes, and it consisted mostly of pine and larch. After 
 travelling about twelve miles from camp, we reached, in the midst.of the forest and at a short 
 distance from the trail, a small spring called Wil-la-wit. There was good bunch grass near 
 it among the trees. The guide said that we could not reach the next stopping place before 
 dark, and, rather unwillingly, I concluded to encamp, taking every possible precaution against 
 a surprise. We had found much silica on the road during the day, and here we obtained fine 
 specimens of several varieties. 
 
 October 0. — Tiiere were indications of Indians around camp last night, and this morning, as 
 we were about starting, one of them came to us and used insolent and threatening language. 
 No attack or attempt to stampede our animals was made, however. Our course lay through a 
 nearly level country, covered by an open pine forest offering no obstacles to travel. In about 
 six miles wo came to a little tributary of Wam Chuck river, called Wan-nas-see. It flowed in 
 a small ravine, which the trail followed without obstruction for about a mile, to where a trail 
 from Tysch creek entered it by a lateral caflon. At this spot the ravine became narrower, and 
 fallen timber began to retard our progress. It grew worse as wo advanced, until it was almost 
 impo.'sible to get the "little cart" over the huge logs. We toiled on, with much labor and 
 difficulty, for about four miles further to a little open n:eadow, about a mile long and a 
 quarter of a mi^e wide. It was called Yaugh-pas-ries, the Indian name for cranberries, which 
 were plentiful in the vicinity. The Indians, when travelling from Tysch creek to their whortle- 
 berry patches near Mourt Hood, choose ti is spot for the first camping place. They come, of 
 course, by the trail whicU enters ours on Wan-nas-see creek, and which the guide said was a good 
 one. I was very desirous to go further to-day, but Sam said that the fallen timber was very bad 
 ahead, and the camping place a long distance oif. We might possibly reach it about sundown, 
 but I must certainly, as he expressed it in Chinook, "mm)t.'-uk mam'-a-loos ten'-as chili' -chik" — 
 that is, "'kill the little cart." As most of the train was still struggling among the fallen 
 timber'in the rear, I concluded to encamp, and to adopt on the morrow a new order of march, 
 better adapted to a country blocked up with logs and underbrush. I also decided, much 
 against my will, to " kill the little cart." The men took the spokes for picket pins, and in 
 this form, our old friend continued to accompany us to tlie end of the survey. We found many 
 common varieties of silex on the route from Nee-nee to this point, but none afterwards. Tho 
 grass of the meadow was coarse and not very nutritious, and water lay on the surface in many 
 places. We encamped in the driest place we could find, and took all possible precautions 
 against a night attack. 
 
 October 7. — To-day we had to struggle through a tangled forest of spruce, yew, fir, and pine, 
 with many fallen logs crossing, and sometimes even piled up on the trail. On both sides of it, 
 13 X 
 
.pr 
 
 tmmmmm 
 
 9q NAKKATIVK and itinerary — CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 they would have rc^'^^rtil an advance, without cutting a way with axes, impracticable. Driving 
 about sixty loose animals through this forest was no easy task, as wbeii the leaders were delayed 
 by the logs, those beliind would leave the trail on botli sides, and crowd into places where it 
 was impossible to advance and nearly so to retreat. Our usual order of march had been for the 
 gentlemen of the party, with a man riding tliebell horse, to form an advanced guard; while the 
 packers, in charge of Mr. Coleman, brought up the rear of tiio train. The i'allen timber now 
 compelled me to separate the men among the animals, giving a certain number in charge to 
 each man. This scattered our little party over a space of more than half a mile, and rendered 
 a successful defence against a sudden attack almost hopeless. 
 
 Yaugh-pas-ses meadow is drained by a small brook that discharges itself into a branch of 
 Tyscli creek, which we crossed a little more than a mile from camp. It was a clear rapid stream, 
 about fifteen feet wide, flowing in a small ravine near the northern base of two prominent peaks, 
 called Nu-ah-hum by the Indians. We followed along the side of this narrow valley about 
 seven miles, to the source of tlie stream. It was a mountain lake called Wat-tura-pn, which 
 was more than a mile long, boidered by a little meadow grass and surrounded with thick 
 i'orests. Its banks were so miry that our animals could with dilKculty drink. Here we were 
 compelled to encamp ; our mules had spent the day in jumping over or creeping under logs, 
 and tlie men in strugging after them and repairing broken packs. We were all fully convinced 
 that wandering amid "forests primeval" in poetry, and among the Cascade mountains, are 
 two essentially diiferent things. . 
 
 We began to find among the trees a few mountain whortleberries, called Oo-lal-le by the 
 Indians, who gatlier them in large quantities and dry them i'or winter food. There were two 
 varieties, one large and black, growing or.; buslies about six feet high, a tlie other much 
 smaller, of a blue color, and lound on bushes of about half that height. Hoth were delicious 
 when fresh. We also noticed that we had passed beyond the region of bunch grass, and that 
 its place among tiie trees was supplied by a very coarse, deep green species, whicli none of the 
 animals would taste. 
 
 October 8. — Last night a few of our animals strayed oft" into the forest, and we were delayed 
 some hours in searching for them ; by the great exertions of Mr. Coleman they were at lengtli 
 all found, and we started. Tlie trail lay on a ridge, having a ravine parallel to it on each side. 
 The fallen timber was not so troublesome as yesterday, but the forest, which was composed of 
 huge trees of yew, fir and spruce, and some pine, was very dense. In about a mile we crossed a 
 small stream with no grass near it. A mile further on we reached an open prairie, about one 
 mile long and half a mile wide, covered with a coarse kind of grass ; it was called by the Indians 
 Ln-ali'-huni-lu-ah'-hum, and ajipeared to be sometimes occuiued by the savages as a camping 
 place. Doubtless there must be v(rr,ter near it, but we found none.- There were several large 
 trails hero, but our guide, after hesitating a few moments, took a very small one leading west, 
 through a thick forest of young trees and bushes. In about two miles we came to a beautiful 
 mountain lake, called Ty-ty-pa. It had a nt;"row border of rich grass, separating it from the 
 dense forest around ; but the whole open space was only about half a mile long. This is the 
 second camping place of the Indians when travelling from Tysch creek to the Willamette by 
 this trail. It is also a favorite resort for gathering whortleberries, which we iound growing 
 in very great abundance. The ground had been dug over by bears in many places, and 
 large numbers of ducks and a few wild geese were swimming in the lake. The forest concealed 
 the surrounding country, but the Indian said that it was level for a long distance, both north 
 and south, and filled with deer. He also said that the next water was very far off, and the 
 
NARRATIVE AM) ITINERARY — CASCAPE MOT'NTAINS, 
 
 99 
 
 
 trail bad, and that we ought to encamp here. As it was now past noon, we did so. The grass 
 had been eaten quite short by the Indian horses, but it was of a nutritious quality, and tlie 
 animals fared pretty well. Mount Hood towered high above us, and his huge, snow-capped head, 
 now appearing and now disappearing among drifting massep of clouds, gave a wild grandeur to 
 the little camping place, whicli will be long remembered. 
 
 October 9. — To-day it rained furiously in the morning, and as I was very desirous to have a 
 good view of tlie surrounding mountains when I crossed the dividing ledge, and as the animals 
 greatly needed a day of rest, I decided to remain in camp. Towards evening it cleared oif, and I 
 measured by triangulation, as accurately as cimumstances allowed, the distance to the sum- 
 mit of Mount Hood, tlie bearing of which, by tiie compass, was N. 4° E. ; tlie resulting 
 distance, about 14 miles, agrees very well with tliat given by our courses checked by latitude. 
 In tlie evening, as usual, I obtained good astronomical observations. 
 
 October 10. — This morning the weather was clear. We started early, abandoning a horse 
 that could travel no further. On leaving camp we ascended a steep hill about 400 feet high, 
 and then gradually descended, for about a mile and a half, by a huccession of pitches connected 
 by narrow terraces. They conducted to a small brook, flowing north through a ravine destittito 
 of grass. Continuing a southerly course for about two miles furtlier, we found ourselves in a 
 small dry prairie, where the trail suddenly seemed to disappear. Thus i'ar to-day we had been 
 very little troubled by fallen timber. Our guide dismounted, and, directed by signs too slight 
 for our eyes, led us across the open spot to a place where the Indians had blazed the trees for a 
 few rods into the forest, but where no trail on the ground was visible. We had before occa- 
 sionally seen blazing, and sometimes twigs broken in the direction of the trail. The blazing 
 generally consisted of a simple cat, laying bare tlie wood ; but sometimes we found a rude 
 image of a man marked in the bark. This always indicated that much fallen timber was to be 
 expected. The ol)ject of the blazing, in the present instance, was simply to indicate a direction, 
 for it soon ceased, and even Sam could see no trail. By carefully preserving the course it had 
 pointed out, however, he led us about a mile \\p a gentle slope, covered with much fallen timbei-, 
 to the brink of an enormous precipice, which seemed vertical. There was a trail near the edge, 
 which conducted us up a gradual ascent to the foot of a very steep mountain, composed of basalt 
 and compact metamorphic slate, whose summit was bare of trees. After climbing it with much 
 labor, and the loss of a mule that rolled down the precipitous side, a magnificent panorama burst 
 upon our view. At au elevation of 5,000 feet above the sea, we stood upon the summit of the pass.* 
 For days we had been struggling blindly through dense forests, but now the surrounding 
 country lay spread out before us for more than a hundred miles. The five grand snow peaks, 
 Mount St. Helens, Mount Ranier, Mount Adams, Mount Hood, and Jlouat Jefferson, rose majes- 
 ticallyabove a rolling sea of dark, fir-covered ridges, some of which the approaching winter had 
 already begun to mark with white. A yawning ravine, into which we had gradually and 
 unconsciously descended this morning, came from the north, near Mount Hood, and winding 
 to the south round the mountain on which we stood w i lost in the dim distance. Another, 
 heading near us, wound out of sight towards the wesi,. On every side, as far as the eye could 
 reach, terrific convulsions of nature had recorded their fury, and not even a thread of blue 
 smoke from the camp fire of a wandering savage, disturbed the solitude of the scene. 
 
 Near this mountain we noticed an extraordinary local variation of the magnetic needle, 
 which numerous bearings to well known peaks enabled me to measure with considerable 
 Thi8 ix the summit by niy trail. It in 500 foet liiglier tliaa tliat of tlie proposed wagon road. 
 
 
100 
 
 XARKATIVE AND ITINEKARY — CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 I 
 
 i ; 
 
 I 
 
 "If 
 
 accuracy. At places about two miles from tlie mountain, both before reaching and after 
 leaving it, the variation, as usual in this region, was about 18"^ east. At the top of the great 
 precipice encoiuiteretl about a mile before reaching the mountain, it was only 11° cast, while 
 on the summit it was IC west. The neetlle was thus actually disturbed 34° by some abnormal 
 cause. It, however, settled readily. The mountain was principally composed of slate and 
 basalt, like those around it, and we could see no indication of iron or other local consc of 
 disturbance in the vicinity. 
 
 During the remainder of the day's march, the trail followed a knife-like ridge between two 
 great canons east and west of us, to avoid the fallen timber in them, and it was very mount- 
 ainous in its character. After a steep descent we toiled up another peak, two miles distant from 
 the first and very similar to it. From tbe summit we could look many miles down the 
 great westerly ravine, and distinctly see the blue hills of the Willamette valley beyond its 
 mouth. This peak was separated from tlie next one of the ridge by a canon connecting the 
 two great ravines. This we crossed with difliculty, and continued to follow the narrow ridge, 
 toiling up and down several more steep peaks rising from it, until the sun was only a few 
 minutes high. Some of our exhausted animals were far behind, and the Indian said that we 
 were still a long way from the " Stone House,"' where he had expected to encamp. He knew, 
 however, a s^>ring not far off, where we could get water, but no grass. We reached it on tho 
 steep eastern side of the ridge just as the sun set. Its bed was dry. We were all feverish 
 from fatigue and thirst, and it was a bitter disappointment ; still, to adva.ice was impossible, 
 and our animals were unpacked and tied to the trees as they gradually came in. Two had 
 broken down entirely, and been abandoned on the way. In the meantime the Indian had 
 disappeared. When he returned he quietly remarked that he had discovered water. We 
 rushed to it, and found a little spring, which flowed almost drop by drop from under a rock in 
 the thick bushes. There was enough for the men, but none for most of the suffering animals, 
 and their cries from hunger and thirst were incessant through the night. 
 
 October 11. — This morning we took a westerly course, which led us over the ridge that we 
 had been following, into a third great ravine heading near us and winding out of sight to the 
 northwest. The descent was about seven hundred feet, and very abrupt. In the ravine we 
 found a fine stream of water and a small lake, bordered by some good grass, which, however, 
 had been eaten so short by Indian horses that our animals could get none. This place Sam 
 called the " Stone House." The origin of its name I could not discover, but probably tliere is 
 a cave in the vicinity. It is a great Indian Avhortleberry camp, and we found tlie bushes still 
 loaded with berries. The lake is doubtless the source of a branch of Sandy river. Disappointed 
 in finding grass for the animals, we toiled up a steep precipice of compact slate, 1,000 feet in 
 height, to the summit of the western side of the ravine, and obtained an extended view of the 
 surrounding country. On every side nothing could be seen but fir-olad ridges and frightful 
 canons ; most of our animals were on the point of giving out from fatigue and hunger; and, 
 to crown our misfortunes, Sam quietly informed me that he had only travelled between the 
 "Stone House" and Willamette valley once, and that was when he was a child. He had a 
 vague recollection of many mountains and a great scarcity of grass on the way. Under these 
 happy auspices we pushed desperately on towards the west. After following a narrow ridge 
 thinly covered with trees, until we had travelled a little more than six miles from camp, we 
 fortunately found a small opening, in which the ground was wet from numerous springs and 
 thinly dotted with grass. We had liardly encamped, when a rain storm that had been threat- 
 
NARRATIVE AND ITINKRARY — AVILLAMKTTE VALLEY. 
 
 101 
 
 ning all the morning, suddenly burst upon us, causing great anxiety lest it should change into 
 snow. Sam and I explored the vicinity on foot, and I was fortunate enough to obtain a good 
 bearing to Mount Hood through the clouds. It was N. 40" E. We were on a narrow ridge, 
 witli au immense canon on eacli side of us, and the suii[dy of grass was very limited. The 
 rumber of whortleberries was so great that we could strip them from the bushes by handfuls. 
 
 October 12. — All last night and to-day, a cold and steady rain poured down, chilling our animals 
 and rendering tiie trail slippery and dangerous. Although I greatly feared snow, I decided 
 to remain in camp and recruit the animals, as many must have given out had we proceeded. 
 To eke out their scanty supply of grass, I issued a small quantity of hard bread, which most 
 of them ate eagerly. We collected heaps of pine knots and logs in different parts of the 
 opening, in order to pack the mules by fire-light (m the i'ollowing morning, and tlms get a 
 very early start. In tiie night it cleared off, and Mr. Anderson and I left our beds, and obtained 
 good observations ibr latitude. 
 
 October 13. — We had reveille at two o'clock this morning, and started as soon as it was light 
 enough to sue the trail. It ibllowed a continuous ridge, varied by a succession of steep peaks, 
 slippery from the rain. After slowly climbing over them for about three miles, we encountered 
 one ISO steep that the ascent seemed impossible. We, however, carefully urged the animals 
 along a narrow ledge, which wound up the face of the tremendous precipice, and at length 
 gained the summit. Tlie blue Willamette valley, marked by a line of fog rising from the river, 
 lay below us, and the word "settlements," shouted down the line, inspired every one with 
 new life. From this point we began a rapid descent to the level of the valley. At the foot 
 of the mountain there was a small grassy swamp, around which the trail wound in nearly a 
 semi-circle. Beyond it we crossed a rocky pedregal, and then followed another ridge less 
 mountainous than the former one. It gradually disappeared, and left us among thick fallen 
 timber. A very few clumps of bunch grass again began to appear among the trees, Tliis 
 trail had been used by the Indians of the Willamette valley to reach the whortleberry patches, 
 and they bad cut through many of the logs. Still vast numbers were left, and we were 
 obliged, in several places, to clear a path witii axes. We slowly worked our way on, in this 
 manner, until night overtook us, and compelled us to encamp in the dense forest without 
 either water or grass. During the night the cries of the half starved animals were very 
 distressing. We also suffered much ourselves from thirst, which a diet of musty hard bread 
 did not tend to allay. 
 
 October 14. — Yesterday, one of our best mules, with a valuable pack, was lost on the way, and I 
 sent two men back this morning to search for him. The fallen timber diminished in quantity as 
 we advanced, and the trail soon became excellent. Pressing rapidly forward we reached, 
 about five miles from camp, a little log cabin on tlie edge of the forest, and, with a feeling of 
 inexpressible satisfaction, found ourselves at last in the long wished for Willamette valley. 
 
 The owner of the cabin was in great fear and trouble. News had come by water from the 
 Dalles, that all the Indians east of the mountains had banded togetiier against the whites, and 
 tliat Major Haller had been defeated, and his party of United States troops nearly cut oft". The 
 Governor of the Territory had called for voluuteers, and great alarm was felt lest the Indians 
 should cross the mountains, and attack the frontier settlements of the Willamette valley. This 
 man was just starting to go to one of the large towns for protection. He expressed the greatest 
 astonishment at our having succeeded in crossing the mountains, which had always been eon- 
 
 
 m 
 

 [ " ■. *'iM ' ' 
 
 
 • ^ iftB 
 
 
 mi''. 
 
 
 102 
 
 narrativt: and itinkhary — loss of kscokt. 
 
 siderecl utterly impassable in tliis vicinity, lie told mc that the nearest place where I couM 
 obtain forage, was at the rancho of Mr. lliigli Ctirrin, about four miles distant. 
 
 Continuing our course through a slightly undulating, well wooded country, we soon reached 
 our destination, and encamping near a little stream by the house, succeeded in obtaining good 
 pasturage, and an abundant supply of oats. Mr. Currin, to whom we are indebted for many 
 acts of kindness, was the owner and first settler of Clackamas prairie, a fine little opening 
 situated on the eastern bank of the Clackamas river. It was tlirougli tlie cailon of this stream, 
 that we had first seen the Willamette valley. The non-appearance of the two men whom I 
 haa sent back for the mule rendered us all quite anxious to-night. 
 
 October '[o. — To-day both the men came in, after an unsuccessful search. As this was an 
 excellent place for our animals to recruit, I resolved to send Sam back for the mule, and to wait 
 three days for his return. !Many of tlie settlers were abandoning their ranches, from fear of an 
 Indian attack, and a general panic prevailed. We had the rare pleasure ot i>;;'.ding in tlic 
 newspapers an account of our own massacre in the mountains. At the expiration of the three 
 days Sam returned with the mule. He had traced it, with an Indian's instinct, to where it 
 had wandered from the trail, descended a deep ravine for water, knocked off the pack against a 
 fallen tree, and then forced its way back over the logs to our camp near the "Stone House." 
 His principal difficulty had been to replace tlie pack, but he had finally succeeded in lashing it 
 to the animal's legs, neck, and tail, in such a manner that it was hard to conceive how the poor 
 brute could have advanced a single step. 
 
 Having heard that Lieutenant Williamson's party was at Oregon City, we immediately 
 prepared to rejoin it. I gave Sam his pay, with a few presents, and a supply of provisions for 
 his journey back to his tribe. As he was very mnch afraid of some of the white settlers who had 
 threatened to kill him, he started in the night. I have little doubt that we all owe our lives to 
 the fidelity of this Indian. 
 
 October 19. — Tiiis morning we rode in a drenching rain to Oregon City, a distance of about 
 sixteen miles. The country near the road was gently undulating in its character, and much of 
 it heavily timbered. We saw on the way several good dwelling houses, cultivated fields, and 
 other indications of civilization and prosperity. Oregon City is a thriving town on the eastern 
 bank of the Willamette, built on a narrow jilateau between tlie high river bluff and the water. 
 We found Lieut. Williamson's party encamped near it, in charge of Lieut. Crook ; and soon 
 learned that our difficulties were not yet over. Lieut. Williamson had been compelled, by tlio 
 lateness of the season, to return by water to San Francisco, in order to prepare for our contem- 
 plated exploration in the Sierra Nevada. He had left orders for me to take command of the 
 party and make an examination and survey of the route to Fort Reading, by way of Fort Lane 
 and Fort Jones. Major Gr. J. Rains, 4th infantry, notwithstanding the urgent remonstrance 
 of Lieut. Williamson, had decided to detain our escort, now consisting of only eighteen 
 dragoons, commanded by Lieut. Siieridan. Since Lieut. Williamson's departure, an Indian 
 war had broken out in Rogue River valley, through which our route lay, and all com- 
 munication between Fort Lane and the Umpqua valley was now cut oft", except for strong and 
 well armed parties. Ours consisted of Lieut. Crook and myself, Messrs. Fillebrown, Ander- 
 son, Young, Bartee, Coleman, and Vinton, with twenty packers, ten of whom were Mexicans. 
 Several of our number were entirely unarmed, and others had only pistols. There were, I 
 think, but five rifles in the whole command. 
 
 Two days were spent in making preparations for our survey. Finding myself thus unex- 
 
NAUUATIVE AND ITINKKARY — LOSS Ol' KSCOKT. 
 
 103 
 
 pectedly deprived, at a time when its services were greatly needed, of an escort ordered by tlie 
 War Department and detailed by General Wool, I first proceeded to Fort Vancouver, a distance 
 of about nineteen miles, and addressed a written remonstrance to Major Rains, who was then 
 at or near Fort Dalles. No reply, either to this or to that made by Lieutenant Williamson, 
 was ever received. I have considered it incumbent upon me to communicate the whole corres- 
 pondence ; as the loss of the escort, besides occasioning great trouble, prevented some examina- 
 tions very important to the determination of the practicability of the route for a railroad, and 
 thus defeated, in part, the object for which a large appropriation of Congress had been set apart 
 by the War Department. Before any of our escort left Vancouver, and before Major Rains' 
 final orders in the case were issued, intelligence was received of the safe arrival of Major 
 Hiillor's party at Fort Dalles. 
 
 J.iitcr of Major G. J. Baiiis, Fourth Infantry, to Lieutenant R. 8. Williamson, United States 
 
 Topo(jraphical Emjinecm. 
 
 Headquakteus, Columbia River and Puget Souxd Distuict, 
 
 Fort Vancouver, W. T., October 10, 1855. 
 
 ISiu: From current rumors and the opinion of the Superintendent of Indian Affairs in Oregon, 
 and from the report of Brevet Major Haller, in the field, with more than 100 men checked and 
 surrounded by Indians, the lives of our citizens and even the safety of the military being in 
 (i[uustioii, the services of every available man are recjuired for the emergency. Tlie body of 
 nineteen dragoons, brought as your escort to this post, we are, therefore, obliged to detain IvT 
 the time being — a kind of force most required. 
 
 I regret being tlius compelled to break in upon any of your arrangements, and may be enabled, 
 
 perhaps, in a few days to dispense with their services. 
 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 G. J. RAINS, 
 
 Major, Fourth Infantry, Commandiiuj District. 
 Second Lieutenant R. S. Wiluamsox, 
 
 Topographical Emjiuccrs. 
 
 Letter of Lieut, It. S. Williamson, United States Topographical Engineers, to Major G. J. liains, 
 
 Fourth Infantry. 
 
 Fort Vancouver, W. T., October 10, 1855. 
 
 Sir: I have received your letter informing me of your intention "to detain for the time 
 being" the body of eighteen dragoons which form the escort to my party. I conceive it my 
 duty to lay before you the circumstances of the case, thinking that your instructions may be 
 modified when the embarrassed position in which I shall be placed, without an escort, is made 
 fully apparent. 
 
 The Secretary of War, in my instructions, says tliat the commanding officer of the department 
 of the Pacific will detail 100 men, with not less than three commissioned officers, one of the 
 latter to act as commissary and ciuartermaster to the expedition, to form the escort of the party; 
 and, in obedience to these instructions, General Wool made the detail accordingly. Upon 
 leaving the valley of the Des Chutes, I informed Lieutenant Gibson, commanding the escort, 
 that I should have 'no further need of the services of his command, excepting Lieutenant 
 
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 104 
 
 NAKUATIVi; AM) ITlNKHAIiY — LOSS (U' KSt'OKT. 
 
 Slieridan and the dragoon detachment, thus reserving only such portion as I deeniod indis- 
 pensable. Lieutenant Crook would still be required as commissary and quartermaster. Accord- 
 ingly, Lieutenant Gibson, with the remainder of the men, proceeded to Fort Jones and Fort 
 Heading, from which places they were drawn. It now becomes necessary, in the prosecution of 
 the duties assigned to me, to proceed to California, where I am instructed to make further 
 surveys. The road leads through the Umpqua, Kogue river, and Siskiyou mountains, which 
 are filled with hostile Lidians. But three days ago I received intelligence of five men being 
 murdered on the main road in the last mentioned mountains, and the newspapers for the last two 
 months have been filled with accounts of Indian depredations in that vicinity. AVithout an 
 escort, I shall incur the risk of losing my animals, and perhaps placing my men in a critical 
 jjosition. 
 
 Tlie animals of the dragoons have been travelling in the field for nearly three months, sub- 
 sisting upon grass, and the ofiicer commanding the escort reports them unfit for service in any 
 expedition where they will have to make other than short marches and cannot be provided 
 with grain. Three animals have already completely given out, and had to be left at the head of 
 the Willamette valley. Tliese animals can go to Fort Lane, on a good road, where forage can 
 be obtained every day, and there 1 expected to exchange them for fresh ones, with which to 
 prosecute the other surveys ; but they are incapable of being applied to the use for which you 
 require them. The small number of men will be of great service to me, and they will not 
 materially increase your forces in the field. Should I increase my party by hiring citizens, or 
 sliould I lose my animals, in consequence of not having a proper escort, I shall incur expense 
 which will fall upon an appropriation designed for a different object, and a deficiency in the 
 amount to be devoted to the survey and office work may materially diminish the value of the 
 results of the expedition, for whicli so largo an amount has already been expended, and the 
 importance of which, as estimated by the War Dei)artment, may be judged by the large appro- 
 priation (.$42,000) and the large number of men devoted to obtaining the information desired. 
 
 I have the honor, &c., &c., 
 
 It. S. WILLIAMSON, U. S. Top. Engs. 
 
 Maj. G. J. Kaixs, -ith infantry, U. S. Army, 
 
 Commanding Columbia Jtiver and Pugel Sound district. 
 
 Letter of Lieutenant Henry L. Abbot, United States Topographical Engineers, to Major G. J. 
 
 llains, Fourth Infantry, United States army. 
 
 Vaxcouveu, Wa.siiington Tkrritory, 
 
 October 21, 1855. 
 
 Sir : I have the honor to report to you that I have arrived here with my detached surveying 
 party, and have found that Lieutenant Williamson has returned to California by steamer, and 
 left me in command of his whole party, with orders to proceed at once and survey the route 
 from Vancouver, by Forts Lane and Jones, to Fort Reading. I deem it my duty before 
 starting to explain to you the very embarrassed state in which the loss of my escort places me, 
 thinking this may induce yon to modify your previous instructions, and allow the eighteen 
 dragoons, with Lieutenant Sheridan, to rejoin me. 
 
 As Lieut. Williamson, in his letter to you of the 10th inst., has explained very fully the 
 
NAURATIVK AND ITINERARY — LOSS OP KMCOnr. 
 
 lOf) 
 
 circumstanced of the case, as far as they wero then known to him, T shall only mention the 
 additional reasonH which, at present, render an escort so necesHary. 
 
 My whole party, inchidinj; Lieutenant Crook, myself, and the scientific cori)8, consists of 28 
 men, of whicli 10 are Mexican packers, and perfectly unreliahle in case of an attack. Many of 
 the i)arty are unarmed. I think there are only five rifles in the whole command. I have 
 about 120 aninmls, to herd which would fully occujiy all the men in case of attack. I have 
 with me all the notes of the whole survey, so that, if my party wore cut oil', tlie whole 
 expedition would have boon useless. Accjording to the latest accounts, the Indians are very 
 hostile, and are in the f.eld in so large a force as to have out off all communication with Jack- 
 sonville, and to have murdered 22 families. I enclose a copy of a desputcli,* the original of 
 which is in my possession, which shows the state of affairs on the road. As wc have to make 
 a second survey in the Sierra Nevada before winter, I am forced to advance at once with my small 
 unprotected party, although it is the very general opinion that we may not reach Jacksonville 
 witiioutan escort. The time which would be required for me to sec you in person would create 
 so great a delay as to probably prevent the second survey in the Sierra Nevada, particularly 
 as my animals are in so jaded a condition that I shall necessarily move slowly. I shall, 
 therefore, start to-day for Fort Reading, and if you should decide to modify your previous 
 instructions and restore the escort, a man will be at Vancouver, ready to ride express to inform 
 me of the fact. Please direct to me at Vancouver, and the man will liring me your letter. 
 
 I am sir, very respectfully, your jbedient servant, 
 
 HENRY L. ABBOT, 
 Lieut. U. S. Topographical Engineers. 
 
 Major (Jr. J. Rains, 
 
 4//t Infantry, U. S. A, commanding Columbia river and Puget sound District. 
 
 I next went to Portland, and had an interview witli Gov. George L. Curry, of Oregon 
 Territory, to whom I feel under gref.t obligations. He i8.sued a general order, directing any 
 volunteer officer to supply me with an escort, if practicable ; and used his influence to aid me 
 in every possible way. I feel that the success of the expedition is, in a great measure, due 
 to his kind assistance. 
 
 I then returned to our camp at Oregon City, and, after discharging two men at tlieir own 
 request, completed the preparations for our return to Fort Heading. 
 
 * lktra:l from an extra of llie Orr/jim Statesman, 
 
 "CoitVAi.i.ia, Sunday, OcUjIht 14. 
 " At noon, to-day, Mr. S. B. Hadley arrived at this place, express iiieasenger, bearing a petition to Governor Curry for five 
 hundred volunteerx to repel the hostilities of the Shaata ami Rogue river Indians, who are represented to be in a state of war 
 towards the whites. The petition is signed by about 150 of the citizens of Uiupiiua valley. Among the names we recognize 
 a nuuibur of prominent settlers there. The petition represents that some titenl;/ or tliirli/ fumiliea have been miinlereil .' and 
 dwellings burned; and that an attack upon the Unipqua settlements is feared. The houses burned and families murdered, thus 
 far, were between Grave creek and Kogue river. 
 
 • •••»to«»o« 
 
 All coummnication with Jacksonville was cut ofl", and we hear nothing from the citizens there. It is conjectured, however, that 
 the town is fortified. The mail carrier was tbot at and driven back. The families between Grave creek and (ho canon have 
 been brought into UmiMiua, for safety. There is no communication beyond the canen now. 
 
 " Mr. Hadley says that Judge Ueady, who bad been holding court in Jackson county, with Mr. Drew, deputy marshal, confirm 
 the intelligence, and say that from the mouatains they could see the burning dwellings south uf thom.'' 
 14 X 
 

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 106 
 
 NARRATIVE AHD ITINERAUY — WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 
 
 ROUTE FIIOM VANCOUVER TO FORT READING, WEST OF THE CASCADK MOUNTAINS. 
 
 October 22. — To-ilay we left Oregon City, travelled about eighteen miles over an excellent 
 road, and encamped on Pudding river. The country waH level or gently undulating, and much 
 of it covered with timber. We found the ford of the Molalle river rather deep. A ferry-boat 
 is required at tluH crossing during the season of high water. Numerous houses and fine farms 
 were passed on the way ; and the land appeared fertile and valuable. 
 
 October 23. — This morning wo crossed Pudding river by a toll-bridge, and then travelled 
 about twenty-four miles to Salem. Our course lay through a level country called French Prairie, 
 the fertility and thickly settled character of which strongly contrasted with the barrenness and 
 solitude of most of the Des Chutes plateau. At Salem I saw the surveyor general of the 
 Territory, and Mr. II. Gordon, deputy surveyor. To both of these gentlemen I am indebted 
 for much valuable information and personal kindness. 
 
 October 24. — This morning it rained. We passed over the Willamette river at Rice's ferry, 
 where the stream is deep and wide and the current rapid. One of our mules was drowned in 
 attempting to swim across. We found difficulty in keeping our proper course to-day, on ac- 
 count of numerous forks in the road. Tiiere is also a very annoying custom, in this part of the 
 valley, ot enclosing by fences portions of the road, with the land on each side ; thus rendering 
 large circuits unavoidable. Soon after leaving Salem, we passed through a small collection of 
 houses named Cincinnati, and crossed a little stream called La Creole river. The country was 
 level or slightly undulating for the whole of the day's march. We encamped on Lackimnto 
 creek, having travelled about seventeen miles. 
 
 October 25. — The route to-day, which was in some places well timbered with oak, cedar, fir, 
 and spruce, lay over a narrow and nearly level plain, bordered by high hills. We passed 
 through Corvallis, a little town, consisting principally of one street lined by several stores and 
 dwelling houses. It is built on a small stream called Mary's river, which rises near a peak of 
 the Coast Range, bearing the same name, and discharges itself into the Willamette. We 
 travelled 32 miles, and encamped on Long Tom creek. 
 
 October 20. -To-day wo continued our course through the same narrow, level prairie, for 24 
 miles, to Eugene City, a small village near the junction of the Coast and Middle forks of the Wil- 
 lamette. A short distance north of the town, a line of low rolling hills, the principal peak of 
 which is called Spencer's Butte, crosses the valley, and connects the Cascade and Coast Ranges. 
 
 Octoijcr 27. — Our road to-day followed up the Coast fork of the Willamette, and we encamped 
 near its head-waters, after a day's march of about 25 miles. The valley had become narrow 
 and we occasionally crossed low hills. Tiie soil was very fertile, and much of it cultivated. 
 We experienced no little difficulty, however, in obtaining forage for our animals, as the Indian 
 war in Rogue River valley had caused it to be in great demand. 
 
 October 28. — To-day we crossed, by the Pass creek mad, the Calapooya mountains, which 
 separate the Willamette and Umpqua valleys. Pass creek rises in a little meadow, which is 
 also the source of a tributary of the Coast fork of the Willamette, and flows through the 
 Calapooya mountains to Elk creek, a branch of the Umpqua river. This pass had only been 
 known for a short time, and the wagon road was not fully completed when my party travelled 
 over the route. Nothing but a few short bridges and a little grading, however, was wanting 
 to make it a good and level road through the mountains. Having reached the Umpqua valley, 
 we crossed a small divide between Pass and Elk creeks, and travelled towards the south through 
 a narrow prairie bordered by rolling hills. The soil was fertile, and the neatly painted houses, 
 
 I i 
 
 I 
 
NAnnATIVE AND ITINERAUY I'MPQI'A VALLEY — I'MrQI'A CANON. 
 
 1U7 
 
 surrounded by cultivated land, greatly rcocinbled those of the eastern States. Wo onconipod 
 near tlie end of this prairie, after a day's march of about l!) miles. 
 
 October 2'J. — On starting tliis morning, we passed over a steep hill with a flat and nearly 
 level summit, and tiien travelled to Winchester, distant about I'J miles from camp. Our course 
 lay through an undulating and very fertile country, varied with an occasional growth of oak 
 and pine. Winchester is a little town situated on the southern bank of tiio North Umpqua river, 
 at this i)oint, a rapid stream about 80 feet in width, flowing over a very rocky bed. We crossed 
 it in a ferry-boat, and encamped in the village during a hjavy fall of rain, which continued 
 through the night. 
 
 October 30. — Wo learned, upon good authority, that the reports from Rogue river had not 
 exaggerated the Indian disturbances there. None but strong parties could pass through the 
 valley, and most of the houses north of the river were burned. A large force of regular and 
 volunteer troops was already in the field, and two additional companies were about starting to 
 reinforce them. The election of field officers was to take place immediately at Roseburg, and 
 we remained in camp to-day to await the result, before applying for an escort to Fort Lane. I 
 repaired a barometer. 
 
 October Z\, — This morning the road lay through a nearly level and very fertile valley to 
 Roseburg, where I saw Major Martin, the elected commanding officer of the volunteers. He 
 informed me that the troops were now fighting with the Indians, near the Umpqua canon ; and 
 that he intended to join them on the following morning, with two more companies at present 
 in camp at Canonville. He kindly proposed to escort my party through the cafion, and I accepted 
 his otter. 
 
 We continued our course up tho valley of the South Umpqua river, and encamped with the 
 volunteers near the northern entrance of the Umpqua cailon, at Canonville, which consists only 
 of one house and a barn. The road followed the stream for the greater part of the way, and 
 the valley, although narrow, was settled, and much of it apparently very fertile. The hills on 
 each side were lightly timbered with oak and fir. Several specimens of a hard variety of talcose 
 slate were found during the day. The distance travelled was about twenty-six miles. In the 
 evening a despatch was received from the battle field, stating that the troops were greatly in 
 want of food and powder, and urging on the reinforcements. In the night it rained. 
 
 November \. — This morning we followed tho volunteers through tho cafion, a difficult pass 
 through the Umpqua mountains. Two small creeks head near the divide, and (low, one towards 
 tho north to the south fork of the South Umpqua, and the other towards tho south to Cow 
 creek. Tlie bottom of the gorge is exceedingly narrow, and the precipitous sides, covered with 
 a thick growth of trees, rise at least 1,000 feet above tho water. We found in the caiion a 
 species of yew-tree which we did not notice elsewhere west of tho Cascade mountains. The 
 ascent from the camp to the divide was 1,450 feet, and we were compelled, after crossmg the 
 creek about thirty times, to travel part of the way in its bed. A few resolute men might hold 
 this defile against an army ; and it is wonderful that the Rogue river Indians, who are intelligent, 
 brave, and well armed with rifles, have never, in their numerous wars, seized upon it, and thus 
 prevented the approach of troops from the Umpqua valley. This pass is about eleven miles in 
 length, and communication through it is sometimes interrupted by freshets. The road over which 
 we travelled was constructed in 1853, by Brevet Major B. Alvord, United States army, and it 
 is the best route known through the Umpqua mountains. 
 
 We had hardly left the caiion when wo began to see traces of the Indian devastations. 
 
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 NAUnATIVi: AND IIINEKARV — UOQVK RIVKU VAM-KV. 
 
 Blnckcncd and Hinokin;; niins, Biirroutnled by Iho ciircftHH<'H of doniOHtic animals, marked tho 
 pluct'H wluM'c, liut II lew diiyH bt'lbro, tlie HcttlcrH Iiiid livi'd. Wu jiasHod u tciitn on tlii' roiid ; tho 
 oxen lay Mliot in the yoke, and tlio dark hlnod HtainH njion tho Hoat of tin' wu'^'on told tlio Into 
 of tlio driver. Even the MtuckM of hay antl j^ruiii in the liclds had heen luirned. After leavin;,' 
 the canon, wc followed tho narrow hnt fertile valley of C!ow creek for a few miles, and then 
 croHMing a Hteep diviile between it and Wolf ereek, encanijied on the latter Mtreain. Major Martin 
 intended to proceed, in the morning, to join in the battle which was going on among tho nioun- 
 tainw, at a distance from the road varioiinly estimated to be from five to twelve miles. As he eonld 
 not spare us an escort, we determined to press fiirward as rapidly as possible towards Fort Lane, 
 trusting that the Indians would be too busy to attack our [larty. In tho evening, however, 
 stragglers from the fight began to come in. They reported that tho provisions were entirely 
 exhausted, and tho powder nearly gone; that the Indians were numerous and very strongly 
 posted ; that several white men luul been killed and many wounded ; and that it hatl been thought 
 best to fall back, for tlie present, and wait for supplies. The regular troops were on their way to 
 Grave creek, and tho volunteers were coming to (uir camp as fast as they could transport their 
 wounded. The Indians did not fcdlow them, and they all arrived before morning. The forage 
 on the route had been burned, and our animals siiflfered much from want of food to-night. 
 
 November 2. — This morning Major Martin, escorted by a volunteer company, went to Grave 
 creek to see Captain A. J. Smith, 1st dragoons, commanding the United States troops in the 
 valley. He oilered us the benefit of his escort, and we accompanied him accordingly. This 
 gentleman, together with Captain Moslier and other vtdnnteer oflicers, assisted us in every way 
 in their power ; and without this accidental aid our party would have found it very diflicult to 
 cross the valley. 
 
 Wolf and Grave creeks are separated by high and steep hills, covered with thick timber and 
 underbrush , On reaching Wolf creek we found Captain Smith in camp, near a house surrounded 
 by a small stockaile. His supply of forage had failed, and be was forced, on this account, to 
 prepare to return to Fort Lane as soon as a few men, who bad died of their wounds, could be 
 buried. Lieut. Gibson, tbrmerly in command of the escort of our party, was among the wounded. 
 Being compelled by want of forage to press forward as fast as possible, I api)lied to Capt. Smith 
 for an escort. lie gave me one so pron)ptly that in less than fifteen minutes we were again on 
 our way. 
 
 Between (irave and Jump off Jou crcoks the road passed over a steep and heavily timbered 
 divide. Tho Indians had killed two ncn in charge of a pack train on this hill, and the half 
 burned remains of their wagon and packs wore still to be seen. Near this place INIajor Fitzgerald, 
 1st dragoons, had overtaken with a scouting party and killed several of the savages. At Jump 
 off Joe creek, a man driving swine had been murdered, and a large number of his animals lay 
 dead in the road. On leaving this creek, we passed through an undulating and fertile country, 
 sometimes open and sometimes thinly covered with a growth of oak, sugar maple, and a little 
 pine and hemlock. After travelling until nearly sun down, wc encamped at a building which 
 had been preserved from the general ruin by the heroism of a woman named Harris. After her 
 husband had been murdered and her daughter wounded, she had made a desperate and successful 
 defence by shooting at the savages from between the crevices of the log house. The traces of 
 her bullets upon the trees, which had shielded the Indians, and the marks of the tragedy within 
 the dwelling, were plainly visible. Soon after dark a small party under the command of Lieut. 
 Allston, 1st cavalry, arrived with the wounded and encamped. Captain Smith, with a few men, 
 passed us on his way to Fort Lane. The length of our day's march was about fourteen miles. 
 
NAKHATIVE AN1> tTINKIlAUY — KOHT I.ANE — SISKIYOir MOl'NTAIXf*. 
 
 109 
 
 Novemher W. — To-day wo travelled about twenty-five miles to Fort Lano, crosHinj; Uonue river 
 at Kvans' ferry. His Iiouho, and others south of the river, were now protected by a few soldicrH. 
 The diMturbanco had been condned to tlie northern side of tlie valley ; but a few murders had 
 been eommitted on the Siskiyou mountains, and the settlers were in great alarm. The roail was 
 "ently undulating until we arrived at the ferry ; but from that point it f(dlowed the level bank 
 of the rivor nearly the whole distance to Fort Lane. The land appeared to bo rich and valuable. 
 The hills were thinly covered with oak, pine, and other kinds of trees. A short time before 
 reaebin^'the fort we passed a salt spring, at which the animals drank eagerly. 
 
 Novemher 4, — To-day we remained in camp to recruit the animals, whicii had suffered very 
 much from fatigue and hunger during the last few days. Wo were treated with every possible 
 kindness and attention by the officers stationed at the post. 
 
 Fort Tiane, at present a cavalry station, is pleasantly situated on the side of a low hill, near 
 the junction of Stewart creek with Rogue river. The barracks and oflieers' ([uarters are built of 
 logs plastered with clay. Much of tho surrounding country is fertile and settled, but destruc- 
 tive Indian outbreaks are not unfrequent. On tho opposite bank of Stewart creek there are some 
 peculiar basaltic hills, with flattops and precipitous sides, somewliat resembling those of tho 
 Des Ciiutes valley. Tho principal one, wliich is about five hundred feet high, is called Table 
 Hock. Good observations were obtained at the fort, by which tho altitude above tho sea was 
 found to ho 1,202 l-et, and the latitude 42° 25' 56". 
 
 Novemher a. — This morning we continued our journey without an escort, as no Indian out- 
 rages of importance had been recently j)erpetrated on tho route. Wo found many houses 
 deserted, however, and great alarm ])revailing among the settlers. After travelling about 26 
 miles up the valley of Stewart creek, we encamped at tho house of Mr. Smith, near the foot of tho 
 Siskiyou mountains. The road was level, and the general appearance of the country was sim- 
 ilar to that near the source of the Willamette river. The rolling hills that shut in tho valley, 
 wore sometimes bare and sometimes thinly covered with trees. We passed, on the way, a hot 
 spring, the temperature of which was about 100° Fahr. A continual escape of gas through the 
 water gave it the appearance of boiling. 
 
 Novemher 6. — This morning wo crossed the Siskiyou mountains. At first the ascent was 
 gradual ; but the road soon began to wind up a steep slope, portions of which were rendered 
 very slippery by clay and rain, until, at length, the summit, elevated 2,385 feet above cami), 
 was attained. Here the mountain was densely timbered, but near the base there were com- 
 paratively fiiw trees. The descent, for a short distance, was very abrupt ; but it soon became 
 gentle, and broken by a few hills. A pile of stones by the roadside marked the boundary 
 between Oregon and California. When we passed this spot it was raining; but in tho valley 
 below, clouds of dust gave evidence of a long continued drought. Tho rainy season begins 
 earlier in Oregon than in California ; and it happened in several places that the first rain of 
 the season occurred on tho night of our arrival. Nature seems to have preceded legislation in 
 making the Siskiyou mountains a boundary ; for, after passing thorn, tho appearance of the 
 country immediately undergoes a change. Hounded and nearly bare hills, not unlike those of 
 the Sacramento valley, near Benicia, began to appear ; and a fe\" .scattered sage bushes reminded 
 us of the plateau east of the Cascade Range. Tho general altitude aboxethesea, also, had 
 increased between one aud two thousand feet since leaving Rogue river. Wo crossed Klamatii 
 river at Dewitt's ferry, and encamped on its southern bank, after a day's march of about 
 twenty-four miles. 
 
r 
 
 NARRATIVE AND ITINERARY — YUEKA — EORT JONES. 
 
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 November 7. — To-day we travelled about seventeen miles to Yreka, through a rolling prairie 
 cnnntry. Most of the hills were covered with hunch grass, and entirely devoid of trees. We 
 I)assed several houses near the roixd, and a saw mill on Shasta river, a small but deep stream 
 crossed by a bridge. Yreka is beautifully situated in a little basin surrounded by high hi i. 
 Near it, Shasta Butte, the largest and grandest peak of the Cascade Rvinge, rises abruptly from 
 the valley, and, with its double summit, towers far into the region of eternal snow. This little 
 city, which already contains several brick stores and dwelling houses, is a great depot of the 
 northern mines, and gold digging is actually carried on in its streets. It is, however, divided 
 from the settled portion of the Sacramento valley by such precipitous mountain chains that 
 all its supplies are transported by pack trains ; and until very recently a wagon road to Shasta 
 has been considered impracticable. Two routes have lately been found, however, which, it is 
 thought, will prove to be feasible. •. 
 
 November 8. — This morning we followed the course of a little tributary of Shasta river, 
 throuj^h a rather stony, gold-bearing plain, to Little Scott's mountains, the divide between 
 Shasta and Scott's valleys. The ascent and descent were very abrupt for a wagon road. After 
 crossing the ridge, we soon struck a small branch of Scott's river, and passed down its valley ; 
 which, although not more than a mile in width, has a rich and fertile soil. We encamped at 
 Fort Jones, distant about sixteen mika from Yreka. The fort is finely situated in an open 
 valley surrounded by high and wooded mountains ; the buildings are made of logs. The soil 
 abounds in si'ica, but gold has noi been discovered in the immediate vicinity in snfficioint 
 quantities to pay ^or working. The altitude of the post above the sea, determined by cari^ful 
 observations, is 2,887 feet. The latitude is 41° 35' 42".4. 
 
 November 9. — To-day we remained in camp to recruit the animals, and to transact business 
 with Lieut. Crook, the quartermaster and commissary of the expedition, who had been detached 
 by Captain 11. M. Judah, 4th infantry, commanding the post. This officer, who passed us on 
 his way to Fovt Lane, ordered Lieut. Crook to remain at Fort Jones, on accoimt of the exigen- 
 cies of the public service. I greatly regretted this order ; for it obliged me to discharge the 
 duties of quartermaster and commissary, both for my topographical party and for Lieut. Crook's 
 train, which accompanied me to Fort Reading. This circumstance prevented me from leaving 
 the command, and examining, with a detached party, the Sacramento river route ; which, it is 
 thought, might have been shown to be practicable for a railroad. The want of an escort, and 
 the great uncertainty of obtaining forage, rendered it impossible to travel over this route with 
 the whole train of nearly broken down animals ; and the design of surveying it was necessarily 
 abandoned. 
 
 November 10. — Last night it snowed. We remained in camp again to-day to finish the 
 business with Lieut. Crook. John Mellen, one of our best men, was discharged at his own 
 request. 
 
 November l\. — This morning we travelled about twenty-three miles up Scott's valley, and 
 encamped at tiie foot of the high mountain chain which separates it from Trinity val'jy. Scott's 
 valley is a very beautiful and fertile opening, lying among forest-clad ridges abo Jt two thousand 
 feet in height. It varies from one to eight or ten miles in width, and is nearly destitute of 
 timber, except on the banks of the otreani. The soil is rich, and gold is found in some localities. 
 
 rained a little in the valley, and snowed upon the mountains during the day. 
 
 November 12. — To-day Scott's mountain, the .'lighest summit upon our return foute, was 
 «!roR6ed by a i)ack trail. W» toiled up a steep and rocky ascent covered with trees, until an 
 
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NARRATIVE AND iTINERARY — TRINITY TRAIL — FORT READING. 
 
 Ill 
 
 elevation of 2,141 feet above camp was gained. The snow was about four inches deep upon the 
 top. In the winter it sometiiaes renders the trail impassable. A sudden descent conducted to 
 the head-waters of a branch of Trinity river, which flows, in a deep and narrow ravine, between 
 heavily timbered ridges. We were compelled to cross and re-cross this stream eleven times at 
 bad fords, which h"name more and more rocky as they grew deeper. At length we encamped 
 near a public house, after a hard day's march of twenty-four miles. This very bad trail, is, at 
 present, the most travelled route between Yreka and the settled part of the Sacramento valley. 
 
 November 13. — To-day wo continued our course down the narrow valley, crossing the stream 
 five times more at very rocky fords. It received several small tributaries, which increased its size to 
 nearly a hundred feet in width and about three feet in depth. The current was rapid. At tlie 
 point where the river first bends abruptly toward the west, the trail leaves it and crosses Trinity 
 mountains, the divide between it and Clear creek. A spur from the main ridge, lying between 
 two immense ravines, extends about six miles towards Trinity river. The trail winds up the 
 steep end of this spur, until an elevation of nearly 2,000 feet above the water is gained, and 
 then follows along the top to the main ridge, through a forest of pine and oak. The descent of 
 2,543 feet to Clear creek is rxcoedingly abrupt. Although much labor lias been expended upon 
 the trail, this mountain is a very great obstacle to travel. We encamped at the first h'^use we 
 reached in the valley, after a hard march of about twenty-four miles. 
 
 November 14. — This morning we folio (ved a pack trail about five miles down the narrow 
 ravine of Clear creek to a mill, which is tlie terminus of tlie wagon road froin Shasta. A few 
 miles furtlier on, we reached French gulch, a celebrated pla.e for gold washing. The valley 
 of the creek was here about a quarter of a nale in width, t,.id the water had been conducted 
 through it in every direction, by ditches. As many as a hundred men were engaged in digging 
 and washing gold when we passed, and quite a little village had sprang up near the road. I 
 was told that although the ground had been dug over several times, the amount of gold seemed 
 to be undiminished. 
 
 We continued to follo'v the narrow valley of Clear creek, occasionally crossing lew spurs from 
 the sides to avoid bends, i«ntil we reached a few houses called Whiskey town. At this place 
 i-he road left the stream, and passed through an open, rolling country to Shasta, one of the 
 ririncipal towns in northern Californa. Here we encamped, after travelling about twenty-one 
 lilies. 
 
 Xovemher 15. — To-day we arrived at Fort Reading, distant about seventeen miles from 
 Shasta, and thus completed the field work of the survey. The road between the town and the 
 Sacramento river, which we crossed ut Johnson's ferry, led through an open and undulating 
 reg'on From the ferry to the fort, it passed over a nearly level plateau, in some places 
 well wooded, and ill others entirely destitute of trees. We were received willi great kindness 
 and attention by the only officers uL the post. Major F. 0. Wyse and Lieutenant U. R. Ransom, 
 both of the 3d artillery. 
 
 Lieutenant Williamson arrived from San Francisco a few days afterwards. He considered 
 the season so far advanced as to render it inexpedient to attempt any exploration of the 
 yierra Nevada, near the sovirces of Carson river, before the ensuing spring, particularly as the 
 most important examinations contemplated had been already anticipated by the State. Orders 
 were soon received from the War Department, directing him to dispose of the outfit and return 
 at once to Washington to prepare the report, maps, profiles, &c., of the survey already com- 
 pleted. The party reached the city in liie latter part of January, 1856, and immediately 
 entered "pon office work. 
 
 II 
 
 w 
 
 I ' 
 
I 
 
 ■1 ili: 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 J!''! 
 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 COMPUTATION 0? ALTITUDES PROM BAROMETRICAL OBSERVATOKS. 
 
 PbELIMINAUV remarks — InSTBIMENTS. — IXSTRI MESTAI. KRRORS. — INTERPOLATION, AXD APPROXIMATE TEST OF ACCURACY IK ORSERVER. — 
 CoHRECTIONS PREPARATORY TO COMPUTATION "oR TEMPERATURE OF MERCURY; 2. FoR IXSTHUMENTAI, ERROBH ; ;t FoU llOHARY 
 
 OSCILLATION; 4. FoB AIINOHMAL OSCILLATION'.- t ■ COMPUTATION, WITH BBMAIIKS : 1. (,)N THE READINd OF THE IIAROMETER 
 
 AND THERMOMETER AT THE LOWER station; 2. ») riING OF THE THERMOMETER AT THE UPPER STATION. — F.XAMPLE. — TesT 
 
 OF THE COMPARATIVE ACCURACV OF THE DIFFERKN) ,^I)S OF COMPUTATION, WITH TABLE3 BIIOWINd THE RESULTS OBTAINED. — 
 
 Height of Fort Readino. — E.\planation of tables ». barometric observations in Appendix I), etc 
 
 VUELIMINARY HEMARKS. 
 
 To insure accuracy in the old method of determining altitudes hv the barometer, it is theo- 
 retically necessary that the observations at tlie ujjper and lower stations should be simultaneous. 
 In obtaining the data for constructing the extended barometric profiles of the recent Pacific 
 railroad surveys, many causes have rendered it impossible to comply, even approximately, with 
 this condition. Anew methul of computation, based upon different principles, has therefore 
 been required. Successive improvements have been introduced in computing the altitudes de- 
 termined on the different surveys, until this object has been, in part at least, attained. Altiough 
 several references to the subject have been made in the reports, the now system has never, to 
 my knowledge, been published in a form sufficiently detailed for practical use. Partly to supply 
 this deficiency, and partly to explain my reasons for believing that certain other slinht changes 
 in the old system are advisable, I have decided to describe in full the method used in reducing 
 tlio field notes of our survey. 
 
 INWTUUSIIONTS. 
 
 On starting from Benicia we had tiur cistern barometers, Nos. 1000, 10(11, 1008, and 1089, 
 mndc to order, by James Green, of New York, on the same pattern as those used by the Medic il 
 Department of the army, but with scales graduated for greater altitudes, and with verniers 
 reading to thousandths oi an inch. We ahso had an aneroid barometer, but it proved to be so 
 inferior an instrument that the few observations taken with it were rejected. We were likewise 
 ]irovided with four extra unfilled glass tubes. 
 
 The barometers proved to be admirably adapted to mountain work ; but they had three defects, 
 which gave us no little trouole. There were no portable tripods connected with them, which 
 made it very inconvenient to take observations when there were no trees near the trail. Their 
 verniers did not read higher than five hundredths of an inch, whicli rendered it necessary to 
 look at both the scale and the vernier, and often to perform additions to determine the hundredths 
 of the rtading. This is very objectionable, as it renders mistakes almost inevitable, when the 
 observations are taken during the hurry of the march. Lastly, the small pieces of wood to 
 which the ivory points and the glass tubes were attached, were a little too large, and, in two 
 cases, expanding from moisture while the glass cistern contracted from cold, actually cracked it, 
 
 ,1 
 
DETERMINATION OF ALTITUDES DY BAROMETER. 
 
 113 
 
 anel thua broke the barometer in a way very difficult to repair. It was successfully accomplished, 
 nowever. by putting a little of Husband's adhesive plaster on both sides of the crack, and 
 then covering it with sealing wax dissolved in alcohol, to protect it from the lir. 
 
 to 
 
 nd 108'J, 
 Medic il 
 verniers 
 to be so 
 likewise 
 
 e defects, 
 whicli 
 Their 
 essary to 
 ndretlths 
 when the 
 wood to 
 I, in two 
 •acked it, 
 
 INSTRUMENTAL EUR0R3. 
 
 In order to eliminate the eflfect of capillary attraction, of minute bubbles of air which cannot 
 be entirely excluded from a tube unprovided with Daniell's protective ring, and of other causes 
 of instrumental error, the scales of all the barometers were so adjusted by the maker that the 
 instruments agreed precisely with Smithsonian standard on leaving Now York. On reaching 
 Fort Reading, from a mean of over two hundred observations, taken with great care by the 
 gentlemen of the party, Nos 1060 and 1061 were found to agree exactly with each other, while 
 both Nos. 1068 and 1089 differed slightly from them. It was assumed that the two former had 
 remained unchanged ; and corrections to make each of the others agree with them were dedu 'ed 
 from the above mentioned observations, after the temperature of the mercury had been reduced 
 to 32° Fahrenheit. Subsequently, whenever a barometer was broken and re-filled, a similar 
 correction was deduced. The following table exhibits these corrections. 
 
 Barometer No. 1000. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Barometer No. 1061. 
 
 Dftto. 
 
 July 10 to August 6 
 
 Irreparably broken on August 5 . 
 
 Barometer No. 1068, 
 
 Date. 
 
 During wliolfl survey. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 July 10 to Scptcinlier 18 
 
 Scptemlwr 19 to September 2i) 
 Scpteml)er 30 to October 15.. 
 
 October 16 to October 29 
 
 Subsequent to October 29 
 
 .000 
 + .022 
 + .02>i 
 + .042 
 + .191 
 
 Inches. 
 
 .000 
 
 Inches. 
 
 .009 
 
 Barometer No. 
 
 1089. 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 July 10 to August 5 
 
 4- .015 
 + -041 
 4- .035 
 
 August 6 to September 4 . 
 
 Subsequent to September i . 
 
 
 15 X 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 ;■ if 
 
 m 
 
!li ' 
 
 DETERMINATION OF ALTIl IJDES BY BABOMETEB. 
 
 INTERPOLATION, AND APPROXIMATI-: TFiST OF ACCURACY IN THE OBSERVER. 
 
 Before proceeding to discuss the determination of altitudes, I shall explain the mechanical 
 method used in examining and studying observations taken at a fixed station. It is to repre- 
 sent them, the temperature of the mercury having been reduced to 32° Fahr., by a curve, of 
 which the abscissas denote the times of the observations, and the ordinates the corresponding 
 height of the mercurial column. By this means any great error in observation can be readily 
 detected by an abrupt change in the curve, and a very clear and comprehensive idea can be 
 obtained of the relations of the different observations to each other. This also furnishes the 
 best method of interpolating properly for intermediate readings. 
 
 CORRECTIONS PREPARATORY TO COMPUTATION. 
 
 1. For temperature of mercury. — In preparing observations for computation, the first step 
 taken was to reduce the observed readings of the barometer to what they would have been had 
 the temperature of the mercury been 32° Fahr. For this purpose the tables of Mr. A. Guyot, 
 published by the Smithsonian Institute, were used. 
 
 2. For instrumental errors. — The correction for instrumental errors was then applied, and, 
 when more than one barometer had been observed, a mean of the readings thus corrected was 
 taken, to eliminate, as far as possible, errors of observation, 
 
 3 F(yr horary oscillation. — The next step was to correct for the oscillations of the mercurial 
 column, due to the ever varying weight of the atmosphere. Of these there are two kinds, the 
 normal and abnormal. Although a monthly and a yearly normal oscillation, and also one 
 depending on the amount of moisture in the aimosphere, are supposed to exist, still, we practi- 
 cally know but one, called the horary variation . This is a kind of daily atmospheric tide, caused 
 principally by the heat of the sun, b;^i; jrreatly affected by the altitude and latitude of the place, 
 and, doubtless, by other circumstances. It is far from constant, even at the same locality, as 
 will be clearly shown by the result of our observations made at Fort Beading, in July and 
 November. 
 
 Observations for the construction of a table of horary corrections should be taken hourly 
 with very great care, and continued, if possible, for a long period of time ; but this is not 
 absolutely necessary. A good one may be constructed from observations taken even for a single 
 day, when the mean temperature does not differ much from that of the season, and when there 
 is little or no abnormal oscillation. The latter condition is generally fulfilled when the 
 reading of the barometer, with the mercury reduced to 32° Fahr., is the same, or nearly the 
 same, at the last observation, as it was at the same hour on the preceding day. Even when 
 observations are taken for several days, the latter of these conditions must not be neglected ; 
 that is, the last observation, with the temperature of the mercury reduced to 32° Fahr., should 
 always be very nearly the same as that taken at the corresponding hour immediately preceding the 
 first observation used. This is manifestly necessary, as an abnormal change affects the horary 
 curve. For instance, if the mercury should, beside the horary change, uniformly descend for 
 one entire day and ascend for the next to the same height as before, the descending portion of 
 the horary curve on the first day will be lengthened, and the ascending shortened, and vice 
 versd on the second day. In a mean curve for the two days, these errors will balance each other. 
 
 To construct a table of horary corrections, the observations, afler the temperature of the 
 mercury has been reduced to 32° Fahr. , should be represented by a curve, as already explained, 
 and examined to detect any errors of observation and to reject any portion in which the effect 
 
i! 
 
 (I UVl.S ll.l.rslKATlNC, TMK lAIU.KS (IK HOKAHY OSCI 1.1.ATII >N DKDI (I'.l) 
 FKOM olisr.HVAllONS TAKKN UN THl', SIKVKY 
 
DKTERMINATIOX OF ALTITrDES nv HAROMETEK. 
 
 115 
 
 of abnormal error is not balanced. Should one of the hourly observations bo wanting on any 
 day, a value, interpolated as correctly as possible by comparing the character of the curve 
 between the hours preceding and following it on other days, should be substituted, A moment's 
 consideration will show the necessity of this interpolation when there is any abnormal change 
 from day to day. Still the great mistake of omitting it has often been made. 
 
 The observations having been prepared as explained above, a mean of all the observations at 
 each hour is taken, and a curve plotted to represent these mean results. It should bo a smooth 
 curve, generally with two maximum and two minimum points in the twenty-four hours, the exact 
 times of which vary somewhat. Should this curve not be smooth, some error of observation or 
 calculation has been made. It now only remains to find the mean reading for this mean day, 
 and to take the difference between it and each mean hourly reading, affecting the result with 
 the positive sign when the hourly reading is the less, and with the negative when it is the 
 greater. The correction from this table, applied with its sign to an observation taken at any 
 hour, eliminates the error due to horary oscillation. 
 
 It may be well to remark, that it is a very good test of the value of a table of horary correc- 
 tions to apply it to the curve representing observations taken for a few days at a depot camp. 
 If a more sweeping line is produced, without a daily recurrence of any peculiar form, the table 
 may be considered good for observations taken in the vicinity, where the mean temperature is 
 about the same. 
 
 From the observations taken on our survey, the following tables of horary corrections were 
 deduced. They proved to bo well adapted to the peculiar characteristics of the different tracts 
 of country through which we passed. The manner in which they were computed is fully shown 
 in Appendix E. 
 
 Corrections for Horary Oscillation. 
 
 \}% 
 
 Hoim 
 
 n. m. 
 
 7 II. ni. 
 
 8 a. in. 
 
 9 a. m. 
 
 10 a. m 
 
 11 a. m 
 
 12 in... 
 
 1 p. m.. 
 
 fftl.Ie 1. 
 
 Table 2. 
 
 Table 3. 
 
 Inches, 
 
 Inches. 
 
 1 
 Inches. \ 
 
 — .069 
 
 — .040 
 
 — .042 
 
 1 
 
 — .072 
 
 — . 045 
 
 — .072 
 
 — .037 
 
 — . 049 
 
 — .060 
 
 — .028 
 
 — . 051 
 
 — .050 
 
 — .016 
 
 — . 043 
 
 — .032 
 
 — .007 
 
 — .022 
 
 — .018 
 
 4- .008 
 
 + .001 i 
 
 — .002 
 
 + .014 
 
 + .020 : 
 
 Hour. 
 
 Table 1. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 2 p. m I + .017 
 
 3 p. m j -I- .034 
 
 4 p. m. -I- .048 
 
 I 
 
 5 p. m I 4- .061 
 
 p. Ill 1 -I- .064 
 
 7 p. Ill I -)- .058 
 
 8 p. m I 4- .047 
 
 p. m -I- .027 
 
 Table 2. 
 
 Table 3. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Inches. ■ 
 
 + .028 
 
 + .033 
 
 4- .034 
 
 4- .041 
 
 4- .033 
 
 + .043 
 
 4- .029 
 
 4- .038 
 
 + .020 
 
 + .026 
 
 -)- .013 
 
 + .011 
 
 4- .001 
 
 — .003 
 
 — .004 
 
 
 Tlic curves on Plate XIII illustrate these tables. They represent the ODcillation of the barometer as twenty times greater 
 than it actually is, in order to clearly show its character. 
 
 Table No. 1 was deduced from six days' observations, taken in the latter part of July, at 
 Fort Beading, at an elevation between five and six hundred feet above the level of the sea, 
 and a mean temperature of 83° Fahr. The condition above stated was very well satisfied, and 
 the table was applied to the observations taken in the Sacramento valley, where the mean tem- 
 perature was very high. 
 
 Table No. 2 was deduced from five days' observations, taken in the latter part of August, near 
 
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 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
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 ■"t 
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 J 
 
 jilt 
 
 I 
 
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 » 
 
 
 116 
 
 DETEHMINATION OF ALTITUDES BY DAROMETER. 
 
 the hettd of Des Chutes valley, Oregon Territory, at an elevation of ab i t four thousanii feet 
 above the level of the sea, and a mean temperature of 50° Fahr. We were again fortunate in 
 having little abnormal error, and the table was admirably adapted to the observations taken on 
 the elevated plateau east of the Cascade range. 
 
 Table No. 3 was deduced from three days' observations at Fort Reading, taken about the 
 middle of November, with a mean temperature of about 50° Fahr. Here a barometric storm 
 rendered it necessary to reject four days' careful observations, to avoid the effect of abnormal 
 error. During the three days, however, there was very little atmospheric disturbance ; and the 
 table was useful for the observations taken on my route from Vancouver, where the temperature 
 was uniformly low and the elevation generally inconsiderable. 
 
 It is very interesting to compare these tables, especially the two for Fort Heading. As the 
 Des Chutes curve was obtained from observations at a place differing widely from the others in 
 altitude, mean temperature, and latitude, it is impossible to decide what part of its peculiarities 
 is due to each of these causes of variation. The Fort Reading curves, however, are deduced 
 from observations taken at the same spot, with a change of mean temperature only ; and it is 
 fair to suppose that the differences between them are due principally to this cause. These 
 differences are, that the November curve has a more rounded form and departs less from the 
 horizontal line representing the mean of the day, and that its points of maximum and minimum 
 are nearer together by about three hours. These results are precisely what we should expect, 
 from the great difference of 33° Fahr. in mean temperature, assuming the heat of the sun to be 
 the cause of the horary oscillation ; and they show conclusively that the horary variation is by 
 no means constant, even at the same locality, for all seasons of the year. For some hours, the 
 difference between the corrections in these two tables would affect the computed height of a 
 station more than forty feet. This clearly proves the great error, which has sometimes been 
 committed, of applying a table of horary corrections to observations taken at places of very 
 different mean temperatures, and far distant from the spot for which it was computed. 
 
 4. For abnormal oscillation. — The abnormal oscillations of the barometric column are princi- 
 pally caused by general movements in the atmosphere, which are shown by repeated and 
 numerous observations to extend rapidly and progressively over very large tracts of country. 
 In the first volume of the third edition of Professor J. F. Daniell's Treatise on Meteorology, 
 will be found a very interesting article upon these oscillations. It is illustrated by diagrams, 
 constructed as expljiined above, which represent numerous barouietric observations taken under 
 the direction of the Meteorological Society of the Palat'.ate. For Europe, at least, they con- 
 clusively prove this most important principle of rapid and wide extension. In the third volume 
 of this scries of reports upon Pacific Railroad Explorations, will be found diagrams, prepared 
 by Captain A. W. Whipple, United States Topographical Engineers, to represent barometric 
 observations taken at different military posts by the Medical Department of the United States 
 army. They show that the same principle is true for our western country. Slight local storms 
 do not appear to produce much effect upon the height of the barometric column. The observa- 
 tions taken on our survey agree perfectly with these well known facts. One of our barometers, 
 No. 1068, was left at Fort Reading during our field work, with Dr. J. F. Hammond, United 
 States army, who kindly volunteered to have observations taken daily every third hour, from 
 6 a, m. to 9 p. m. I obtained a corresponding set of observations taken at San Diego, distant 
 Qver six hundred miles, and one month's observations at Benieia, distant about two hundred 
 miles from Fort Reading. Both sets were taken under the direction of medical officers of the 
 
DETKBMINATION OF ALTITUDES BY BAROMETEK. 
 
 117 
 
 jnnci- 
 and 
 untry. 
 
 ogy, 
 
 rams, 
 
 under 
 con- 
 
 olume 
 mred 
 
 metric 
 
 States 
 torms 
 
 serva- 
 eters, 
 
 Jaited 
 , from 
 istant 
 ndred 
 of the 
 
 army stationed at these posts. They agreed very well in all important abnormal changes with 
 Dr. Hammond's Fort Reading observations, and with those made at permanent camps on our 
 route; the only dilTerenco being that the oscillations at San Diego wore not so great as those at 
 Fort Reading and Benicia. Hence, as we were never more than four hundred and fifty miles in 
 a direct line from Fort Reading, it is fair to suppose that the abnormal oscillation over the 
 whole region traversed during our survey, was practically the same aa ^hat measured by the 
 stationary barometer at the fort. 
 
 The method taken to form a table of corrections for abnormal oscillations was tliis : all the 
 observations taken at Fort Reading, San Diego, and Benicia, during tlio time that we were in 
 the field, were reduced to what they would have been, had the temperature of the mercury been 
 32^^ Fahr. They were then corrected for the horary variation ; those at Fort Reading by the 
 tables deduced from our own observations ; those at Benicia by one constructed by Lieutenant 
 W. P. Trowbridge, Corps of Engineers, from a set of observations taken there by the Medical 
 Department of the army; and those at San Diego by one kindly furnished me by Lieutenant J. 
 G. Parke, United States Topographical Engineers, constructed from observations taken on his 
 recent survey in that vicinity. The observations thus corrected were plotted, forming curves 
 which represented the bbnormal oscillations alone at the different places, and which, as already 
 stated, were found to exhibit a remarkable correspondence. As both San Diego and Benicia 
 were south, and the country surveyed by us north, of Fort Reading, I considered the curve 
 constructed from observations taken there preferable to a mean of the three. I, however, used 
 the other two to detect errors of observation, and sometimes, when the surveying party was at 
 a considerable distance from Fort Reading, to determine the approximate velocity of a storm. 
 Observations were taken at 6 and 9 p. ra. and 6 a. m. at our camps, and, when we remained 
 stationary, at many other hours during the day. These observations, corrected as above stated 
 also furnished an excellent check, by showing the direction of the abnormal curve where we 
 were. It was found to agree remarkably with that at the permanent stations. I then made a 
 laborious examination of the Fort Reading curve, carefully correcting it by the above mentioned 
 checks. Three times, where the observations had been interrupted for a few days, the blank 
 was filled by reference to the other curves. The resulting curve represented the abnormal 
 oscillations affecting the observations on our route, and to form a table of corrections, it only 
 remained to find its mean reading, and to take the difference between this and each of its three- 
 hourly readings, affecting the result with the positive sign when the mean was the greater, and 
 witli the negative when it was the less. The values for intermediate hours were found by 
 interpolation. Tlie correction from this table, nlied with its sign to any observation taken 
 at the corresponding day and hour on the survey, eliminated the error arising from abnormal 
 oscillation, by reducing it to the mean reading for the period for which the table was con- 
 structed. The importance of this correction may be seen from the fact that several times it 
 affected the computed height of a station between two and three hundred feet, and, as it some- 
 times increased and sometimes diminished it, relative errors, amounting to between five and 
 six hundred feet, would have resulted had it been neglected. 
 
 METHOD OF COMPUTATION. 
 
 After undergoing the four corrections above mentioned, the observations were ready for com- 
 putation. The tables of Professor Elias Loomis were used for this purpose, the calculation 
 being somewhat shortened by the method of preparing the observations. These tables are 
 
WiKUlM 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 \> 
 
 ! , ; 
 
 i '! 
 
 118 
 
 l>K'rKRMINATIO>f OF ALTITl'nEfl IIY KAHOMI'/rKR. 
 
 nxceedingly convenient, and, by not introdnoing logarithms, greatly diminiHli the liability to 
 iniHtakes. The values assumed for a fow of the quantities in the formula rc(iuire notice. 
 
 1 . Iteadhuj of haromtler and thermometer at lower station. — Tlio mean reading of the barometer 
 at tlie level of mean tide at Suisun bay, near Benicia, was uniformly assumed for tlio reading at 
 tl»e lower station. Its value was determined by computation from very numerous observations 
 taken by the Medical Department of tlio army, at the United States hospital, near the water's 
 edge. It may be well to state that the altitude of the hospital above the level of mean tide, 
 given as C4 feet in the returns sent to the Surgeon General's ofHce, is erroneous, and that the 
 more accurate altitude of 81.5 feet was found, by careful measurement in 1854 by Lieutenant 
 W. T. Welcker, Ordnance (-'orps, United States army, at the request of Lieutenant Williamson. 
 This altitude was used in computing the barometric reading at the level of mean tide from tliat 
 at the hospital. It is 30.057 inches, the temperature of the mercury being 'A2° Fahrenheit, 
 and of the air C4° Fahrenheit. It was considered better to refer all the observations to this 
 fixed base, partly because, by computing from camp to camp or station to station, all errors 
 would he propagated through the whole succeeding work, and partly because the great prin- 
 ciple of this method of computation being to reduce the observed to the mean reading, it would 
 seem better to take for the lower station a mean reading very well determined than one deduced 
 from a few observations, and depending for its accuracy upon the correctness of the horary and 
 abnormal tables. This reasoning was verified by the test of the Caiiada de h 'as observa- 
 tions, which will be fully explained in a subsequent part of this chapter. 
 
 2. Beading of thermometer at upper station, — It only remains to notice the air temperature at 
 the upper station. As our method of computation difters in tliis from that of any of the Pacific 
 railroad surveys yet published, I shall fully state the reasons which decided mo to adopt the 
 change. It had already been found that if, in this new method of computation, the ob.served 
 air temperature was used, bad results were obtained, the very high temperatures giving too 
 great altitudes, and the very low not great enough. To correct this source of error, Mr. L. 
 Blodget constructed an empirical table of corrections, by comparing the results of a spirit 
 level and a barometric survey of some passes in the Sierra Nevada, mode by Lieutenant 
 Williamson in 1853. Although the results obtained by using this table are doubtless more 
 accurate than those given by the observed air temperature without this correction, still I cannot 
 feel satisfied either with it or with the reasoning advanced to support it, based upon the 
 difference between the "surface temperature" and that of the main body of the air. I think 
 the source of the difficulty lies deeper, and that it may be anticipated from the very principle 
 upon which the new method of computation is based. To understand this fully, it is necessary 
 to refer to the formula used in computing altitudes from barometric observations, the tempera- 
 ture of the mercury at both stations being the same. It contains, beside terras depending upon 
 the geographical positions of the stations, two compound independent variables, each of which 
 consists of two mutually dependent variables. These are the height of the mercurial column 
 and the corresponding air temperature at each station ; and it must be carefully borne in mind 
 that they are not four independent variables. The theory of the old method of computation was 
 that, by taking simultaneous observations at both stations, all causes of error would affect them 
 equally, and that by substituting these observed values for the variables, the formula would 
 give a correct difference of altitude between the stations. This is slightly erroneous, for, as the 
 ratio of the barometric readings enters into the formula, any error in them, even although it 
 should affect both equally, would vitiate the result. A greater objection to the method is, that 
 
 t2 
 
nriKItMINATIoN OK ALTITIDES IIY llAROMI'/rKU. 
 
 n» 
 
 all cimses of error do not affect the observations at both Htations eiiually, particularly when 
 diHtiint from each other. This lias reiidcreJ it necessary, in jtrcptirinj; our extentlml proHles, to 
 adopt n now method I'oumk'd upon ii dilferent principle. This is, to Niihstituto for the variables 
 in tlie formula their mean values for tlie whole time occupied by tlie survey, whicli is supposed 
 to be long enough to insure great accuracy in absolute altitudes. At any rate, relative errors 
 are thus eliminated. These mean values are found for the lower station by long continued 
 observations ; for the upper station, the moan barometric reading is obtained by applying to 
 the observed reading the horary and abnormal corrections, which reduce it to the mean for the 
 desired period. The error of using with this value the observed air temperature is now 
 apparent. It is virtually making the formula indeterminate, as, if the tables are correct, we 
 shall have precisely the same values for all the other variables for every additional observation 
 taken, and perhaps a different air temperature for each of them. But this algebraic result is as 
 it sliould be, for tiio height of the mercurial column and the air temperature are, as above 
 stated, mutually dependent variables requiring corresponding values. Hence, the theory of 
 this method of computation, supposing the tables to bo correct, plainly indicates that the mean 
 air temperature for the time employed in the survey should be used in the formula. There is, 
 however, a slight error in the abnormal table which modifies this result in practice. The 
 horary table undoubtedly ( i rects the mercurial column for the effect produced by the changes 
 in the heat of the sun during the day ; but, although the abnormal curve is slightly affected by 
 the difference in mean temperature from day to day, we cannot suppose that this change, 
 depending so much upon local causes, extends uniformly over a large tract of country. Hence 
 the abnormal table does not correct for it satisfactorily. This, together with the fact that we 
 travelled over regions having widely different mean temperatures, which could not bo deter- 
 mined from our few observations, led me to use, in all cases, the mean daily air temperature. 
 It was found by taking a mean of the observations at T a. m., 12m., and 10 p. ra., or of those 
 at 7 a. m., 2 p. m., and 9 p. m.; cither method being well known to give a closely approximate 
 value. 
 
 It is inte'esting to see how Mr. Blodget's empirical table suggests the use of a mean tem- 
 perature in ibe formula, although he bases upon it a widely different theory, and one which, 
 however applicabl:> it may be in particular cases to the old method of computation, appears to 
 me to entirely fail ir showing the cause of the error resiilting from using the observed tempera- 
 ture in the new method. This table reduces the temperature, when between 35° and 60° Fahr., 
 to about 67° Fahr. ; and when between 75° and 95° Fahr., to about 77° Fahr. Thus it not only 
 approximates towards giving a mean temperature, but it even indicates a higher mean tem- 
 perature when the weather is warm than when it is cold. As this table is entirely empirical, 
 being deduced by comparing altitudes found by the barometer and the level, it is by no means 
 necessary to consider that it sustains the " surface temperature " theory. It seems to me to 
 confirm, as fully as could possibly bo expected, considering the small number of observations 
 from which it was deduced, the idea that the mean daily temperature should be used. 
 
 In computing altitudes, the practical importance of an error in the air temperature at the 
 upper station greatly depends upon its height above the lower ; an error of 1° Fahr. vitiating 
 the result about one foot for each thousand feet of this height. 
 
 1, 
 
hH 
 
 m 
 
 DETERMINATION OF ALTITUDES BY HAROMETER. 
 
 The following example is iatroduced to illustrate the method of computation ahove descrihed ; 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 Data/or determining the altitude of Camp 22, near upper end of upper canon of Pit river. 
 
 H 
 
 Dttto. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 No. of 
 
 Keadingof 
 
 Attached 
 
 Detached 
 
 
 
 barometer. 
 
 liarometer. 
 
 t)iermometer. 
 
 thermometer. 
 
 1865. 
 
 
 
 Inches. 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 August 7 
 
 6 p. m. 
 
 1060 
 
 25. j90 
 
 77.0 
 
 75.0 
 
 
 6 p. in. 
 
 1089 
 
 25. 957 
 
 77.0 
 
 75.0 
 
 
 9 p. m. 
 
 1060 
 
 25. 990 
 
 63.5 
 
 65.0 
 
 
 S> p. in. 
 
 1089 
 
 26. D53 
 
 63.5 
 
 65.0 
 
 Aiigust 8 
 
 6 a. m. 
 
 1060 
 
 26. 025 
 
 48.0 
 
 47.0 
 
 - 
 
 6 n. in. 
 
 1089 
 
 25. 981 
 
 47.5 
 
 47.0 
 
 Corrections applied be/ore computation. 
 
 wl 
 
 6 p. m., August 7. 
 
 Bar. 1060. Bar. 1089 
 
 Inch : 
 
 Barometric -ending 25.990 
 
 Correction t> temperature of mercury ; — .112 
 
 Correction for instrumental errors . 000 
 
 Correction for horary oscillation ' -|— 020 
 
 Correction for abnormal oscillation | -|-. 075 
 
 Corrected readings. 
 
 I 
 .1 25.973 
 
 I 
 
 India. 
 25. 957 
 — 112 
 4-. 044 
 +.020 
 +.075 
 
 25.984 
 
 9 p. m., August 7. 
 
 Bar. 1060. her. 1089 
 
 Inches. 
 25. 990 
 — . 081 
 .000 
 —.004 
 +. 375 
 
 25. 980 
 
 Inches. 
 25. 953 
 —.081 
 +. 044 
 —.004 
 +.075 
 
 25. 987 
 
 6 a. m., August 8. 
 
 Bar. ^060. Bar. 1089 
 
 Inches. 
 26. 025 
 —.045 
 .000 
 —.040 
 +.040 
 
 25. 980 
 
 Inches. 
 2? 98; 
 
 —.on 
 
 +.044 
 —.040 
 +.040 
 
 26.981 
 
 Mean of corrected readings, 25.981 inches. 
 
 Mean daily air temperature, about 67"^ Fuhrethcit. 
 
 Computation by Loomia' tables. 
 
 \l — 30. 057 
 
 H r 
 
 =:25.981 
 
 
 ( = 64° 
 
 V- 
 
 = 67° 
 
 
 „ , . , C 11 = 30.057 
 
 Part I gives for |,,_^^^„j 
 
 
 
 . 27659.2 
 .. 2385L8 
 
 Approxiiuatc altitude a. _._.,.. ...... 
 
 .. 3807.4 
 
 «(,,,, 64) -•''**"•* X 67.... 
 
 
 
 283.4 
 
 900^ ' ' 900 "^ 
 
 
 
 
 Second approximate altitude A 
 
 .. 40'/0.8 
 
 Part 111 gives for A = 4060. 8 and L = 
 
 = 410 50' .. 
 
 
 1.8 
 
 Part IV giver for A = 4090. 8 
 
 
 
 11.1 
 
 Altitude of station in feet 
 
 .. 4103.7 
 
 I 
 
 ■m 
 
DFTERMINATION OF ALTITUDKS BY BAROMETER. 
 
 URUSt 8. 
 
 Bar. 1089. 
 
 Inches. 
 2."= 981 
 
 -.on 
 ■f.oa 
 
 —.040 
 +.040 
 
 25.981 
 
 TEST OF THE COMPAIIATIVE ACCURACY OF TEIE DIFFERENT METHODS OF COMPUTATION. 
 
 On a former survey in Southern California, Lieutenant Williamson surveyed two passes, the 
 Tejon and the Canada de las Uvas, with a spirit level and a barometer, for the purpose of testing 
 the latter instrument. It was from these observations that Mr. Blodget deduced his empirical 
 ta!)le referred to above. In accordmce with Lieutenant Williamson's request, I took the original 
 notes of the Canada de las Uvas survey, which he considered rather more accurate than the 
 other, and carefully tested by them these various methods of computing altitudes from barometric 
 observations Before referring to the results obtained, a slight description of the pass will be 
 given. 
 
 The Caiiada de las Uvas is a pass from the Tulare valley, in southern California, through the 
 Sierra Nevada to the basin east of the range. A better place for experimenting with the 
 barometer could not have been found, had this been tiie sole object of the survey. The stationary 
 ba''"meter was observed in a brush hut, at a depot camp situated near the head of the wide and 
 open Tulare valley, at an elevation of 1,447 feet above the level of mean tide at Suisun bay, 
 near Benicia, dul distant 12.8 miles from the entrance of the pass. For about six miles this 
 pass is a narrow ^orge, bordered by ridges several hundred feet in height. It then becomes an 
 open valley, from hJf to three-quarttvs of a mile in width. This character is preserved nearly 
 to the first summit, a di.bince of about 5.5 miles. The road then crosses several branches of 
 the Santa Clara, a river u'scharging into the Pacific, gains the summit of a second divide, 
 and descends to the basin, which is elevated about 1,500 feet above the head of the Tulare valley. 
 From the first summit to the basin, a distance of about 12 miles, the trail is bordered by low 
 rolling hills ; but the liigh ridges of the Sici-ra Nevada intervene between it and the Tulare 
 valley. 
 
 By this description it will be seen that some of these test observations were taken in a narrow 
 gorge, others in a wide valley, and others in an open undulating country, separated by a high 
 range of mountains from the stationary barometi'r. The altitudes <tf tlie stations varied from 
 l'J2 feet to 2,809 feet above Depot camp ; and their distances, from 12.8 miles to ;)r).4 miles from 
 the same place. A greater diversity in their positions could not have been desired. 
 
 The observations in the pass were taken with one of (rreen's cistern barometers, similar to 
 those used on our survey. At the do^iot camp, another barometer of the same kind was used, 
 together with two syphon barometers, which, althougli greatly inferior instruments, furnished 
 a useful check upon errors of observation. 
 
 In making the test computations, I prepared i 'lo table of abnorm il corrections from the 
 observations at the depot camp. Tlie table of liorary corrections used was the one already 
 mentioned, deduced from Lieutenant Parke's observations on his recent survey in the vicinity. 
 The altitudes were first computed by the old method, with Lee's tables, using the carefully 
 interpolated simultaneous readings at the depot camp for the barometric and therniometric read- 
 ings at the lower station. To prevent the slight error arising from taking the ratio between 
 two equally erroneous barometric readings, the corrections for horary and abnormal error were 
 applied to the observations at both stations. The altitudes were then computed by the new 
 method, first using the observed, and then the mean daily air temperatures. As the results 
 were tlie heights of the stations above mean ude at Suisun bay, near Benicia, the altitude of the 
 depot camp above that level was stibtracted from each in order to institute a comparison between 
 them and those determined by the spirit level and by the old method of computation ; both of 
 
 ir. X 
 
^h 
 
 if! J 
 
 i 
 
 1^ ;* 
 
 
 122 
 
 DETKRMINATION OF ALTITUDES BY BAROMETER. 
 
 which were referred to the level of the camp itself. The following tahles exhihit the original 
 (lata end the results deduced by each of the three different methods of computation. It will 
 be seen that the altitudes of forty-eight stations were determined, the highest of which was 
 2,809.5 feet above, and the most distant 36.4 miles from, the depot camp. Assuming the altitudes 
 found by the level to be correct, a little calculation will show that the old method, the new 
 method with observed air temperature, and the new method with mean daily air temperature, 
 give mean errors of 29.3, 28.9, and 9.2 feet ; maximum errors of 142, 119.1, and 31.9 feet ; 
 and minimum errors of 1.8, 1.5, and 0.8 feet, respectively ; and also, that about two-thirds of the 
 altitudes determined by the last named method differ from the true heights less than nine feet. 
 
 COMl'.VRIKON OF TOE DIFFERENT METHODS OF COMPUTING ALTITUDES FROM BAROM ETRIC OBSERVATIONS, 
 BASED UPON DATA OBTAINED IN THE SURVEY OF CANADA DE LAS UVAS, BY LIEUTENANT R. S. WIL- 
 LIAMSON, UNITED STATES 'lYIPOOKAPUICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1853. 
 
 Dahi. — Observatio7is in Depot camp during survey of Canada de las Uvas, 
 
 Date. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 Reading of 
 
 Att. 
 
 Dot. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 Reading of 
 
 Att. 
 
 Det. 
 
 
 
 liaroiiii'tcr. 
 
 tlierm. 
 
 therm. 
 
 1 
 
 
 barometer. 
 
 tlierni. 
 
 therm. 
 
 1853. 
 
 h. m. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 i 1853. 
 
 h. m. 
 
 Jnchea. 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 Sept. 28 
 
 6. 00 (V. m. 
 
 28. 600 
 
 58.5 
 
 59.0 
 
 Oct. 2 
 
 5. 30 p. m. 
 
 28.730 
 
 76.0 
 
 76.5 
 
 
 9.00 a. III. 
 
 28. 690 
 
 71.5 
 
 71.0 
 
 
 8.40 p.m. 
 
 28. 752 
 
 77.0 
 
 77.0 
 
 
 12.110 111. 
 
 28. 606 
 
 79.0 
 
 79.6 
 
 Oct. 3 
 
 V. 00 a. m. 
 
 28. 755 
 
 62.6 
 
 63.0 
 
 
 3.(10 p.m. 
 
 28. 823 
 
 84.0 
 
 83.0 
 
 
 9.00 a.m. 
 
 28.813 
 
 85.0 
 
 84.0 
 
 
 5. 35 p. m. 
 
 28. 595 
 
 72.0 
 
 72.0 
 
 1 
 
 12. 00 m. 
 
 28.782 
 
 95.0 
 
 96.6 
 
 
 8. 05 p. 1)1. 
 
 28.010 
 
 66.0 
 
 68.0 
 
 
 3.30 p.n. 
 
 28. 732 
 
 36.0 
 
 95.5 
 
 Sept. 30 
 
 6. 00 a. m. 
 
 28. 609 
 
 59.5 
 
 60.0 
 
 
 5. 30 p. m. 
 
 28.710 
 
 86.0 
 
 85.0 
 
 
 1). 00 a. m. 
 
 28. 080 
 
 80.5 
 
 80 J 
 
 
 7.30 •.. m. 
 
 28.720 
 
 75.0 
 
 74.5 
 
 
 12.00 111 
 
 28. 674 
 
 95.0 
 
 :.o 
 
 Sept. 29... 
 
 5.30 p.m. 
 
 28.600 
 
 77.5 
 
 77.0 
 
 
 3.00 p. 111. 
 
 28. 650 
 
 94.0 
 
 94.0 
 
 ' Sept. 30... 
 
 6. 00 a. 111. 
 
 28. 609 
 
 69.6 
 
 60.0 
 
 
 5.30 p. III. 
 
 28.615 
 
 83.0 
 
 82.5 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 6. 00 a. m. 
 
 28. 688 
 
 65.0 
 
 66.0 
 
 
 S. 10 p. m. 
 
 28. 656 
 
 80.0 
 
 HO. 
 
 Oct. 4 
 
 5. 30 p. m. 
 
 28. 680 
 
 80.0 
 
 80.6 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 (i. 00 11. m. 
 
 28. 688 
 
 65.0 
 
 66.0 
 
 , Oct. 5 
 
 6.00 a.m. 
 
 28.724 
 
 73.0 
 
 72.5 
 
 
 9. 00 a. m. 
 
 28. 759 
 
 85.0 
 
 84.0 
 
 Oct. 2 
 
 6.00 a.m. 
 
 28. 728 
 
 63.0 
 
 65.0 
 
 
 12. 00 in. 
 
 28. 758 
 
 94.5 
 
 93.5 
 
 
 5. 30 p. m. 
 
 28.730 
 
 74.0 
 
 76.5 
 
 
 3.00 p. 111. 
 
 28.715 
 
 96.0 
 
 95.0 
 
 , Oct. 3 
 
 c. .:? - m. 
 
 28.755 
 
 62.6 
 
 63.0 
 
 
 5. 30 p. 111. 
 
 28. 690 
 
 83.0 
 
 83.0 
 
 
 9. 00 a. m. 
 
 28.813 
 
 85.0 
 
 84.6 
 
 
 8. 00 p. m. 
 
 28.710 
 
 80.0 
 
 80.0 
 
 
 12.00 m. 
 
 28. 782 
 
 95.5 
 
 95.0 
 
 Oct. 3 
 
 G. 00 11. m. 
 
 28. 728 
 
 65.0 
 
 «3.0 
 
 
 3.30 p.m. 
 
 28.732 
 
 96.0 
 
 95.5 
 
 
 3.00 a.m. 
 
 28. 792 
 
 81.5 
 
 81.0 
 
 
 6.30 p.m. 
 
 28.710 
 
 86.0 
 
 85.0 
 
 
 12. 00 111. 
 
 28.758 
 
 93.0 
 
 92.0 
 
 Oct. 4 
 
 6.00 a.m. 
 
 28.751 
 
 73.0 
 
 73.0 
 
 
 3.00 p. 111. 
 
 28.7o0 
 
 94.0 
 
 93,5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
DETERMINATION OF ALTITUDES BY BAEOMETER. 
 
 123 
 
 Data. — Observations in Canada de las Uvas. 
 
 Oiite. 
 
 Station. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 Roailing 
 
 Attacbed 
 
 Detacbeii 
 
 Altitmlu by spi- 
 
 Diiitaiici' fi'om 
 
 
 
 
 of barometer. 
 
 tliermometcr 
 
 tbcrmoraeter. 
 
 rit level above 
 depot camp. 
 
 di'pot camp. 
 
 1853. 
 
 
 A. m. 
 
 Inches, 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 Fed. 
 
 Feel. 
 
 September 28 
 
 37 .t S8 
 
 5. 00 p. m. 
 
 28,425 
 
 86.0 
 
 85.0 
 
 193. 4 
 
 67,740 
 
 
 66 
 
 4. 15 p. m. 
 
 28,240 
 
 87.0 
 
 84.0 
 
 384.3 
 
 70,879 
 
 
 49 
 
 3. 15 p. ra. 
 
 27.900 
 
 79.0 
 
 79.0 
 
 720.4 
 
 75,971 
 
 
 40 
 
 2. 15 p. m. 
 
 27,718 
 
 77.5 
 
 77.0 
 
 917.4 
 
 79,237 
 
 
 34 
 
 1. 20 p. m. 
 
 27,600 
 
 81.5 
 
 81.0 
 
 1,C5£.8 
 
 81,474 
 
 
 27 
 
 0. 30 p. m. 
 
 27,520 
 
 85.0 
 
 81.0 
 
 1,158.6 
 
 83,561 
 
 
 22 
 
 12.00 m. 
 
 27,420 
 
 75.5 
 
 75.5 
 
 1,260.8 
 
 85,312 
 
 
 18 
 
 11.00 a. m. 
 
 27,305 
 
 78.0 
 
 77.5 
 
 1,387.0 
 
 87,719 
 
 
 14 
 
 10.00 a. m. 
 
 27,240 
 
 71.5 
 
 71.5 
 
 1,466.6 
 
 89,394 
 
 
 7 
 
 9.00 a. m. 
 
 27,080 
 
 66.0 
 
 65.5 
 
 1,628.0 
 
 91,996 
 
 September 30 
 
 1 
 
 7. 40 a. m. 
 
 26,922 
 
 72.0 
 
 70.0 
 
 1,774.4 
 
 95,369 
 
 
 3 
 
 8.00 a. m. 
 
 26,808 
 
 74.0 
 
 70.0 
 
 1,809.7 
 
 97,732 
 
 
 6 
 
 8. 20 a. m. 
 
 20,801 
 
 75.0 
 
 7.'5.0 
 
 1,874.0 
 
 99,873 
 
 
 9 
 
 8. 45 a. m. 
 
 26,810 
 
 77.0 
 
 74.0 
 
 1,931.1 
 
 102,424 
 
 
 10 
 
 9.00 a. m. 
 
 26,790 
 
 81.0 
 
 75.0 
 
 1,907.7 
 
 104,574 
 
 
 12 
 
 10. 00 a. m. 
 
 26, 744 
 
 83.0 
 
 79.0 
 
 2,045.0 
 
 108,557 
 
 
 15 
 
 n.05 a. m. 
 
 26,640 
 
 82.0 
 
 81.0 
 
 2,160.0 
 
 112,167 
 
 
 18 
 
 1. 25 p. m. 
 
 26,364 
 
 85. () 
 
 83.0 
 
 2,372.5 
 
 121,382 
 
 
 22 
 
 2. 30 p. m. 
 
 20,152 
 
 hS. 
 
 84.0 
 
 2,618.6 
 
 125,860 
 
 
 27 
 
 3. 15 p. m. 
 
 25,960 
 
 '.0 
 
 82.0 
 
 2,809.5 
 
 128,834 
 
 October 1 
 
 31 
 
 10. 30 a. m. 
 
 26, 137 
 
 l.n 
 
 84.1) 
 
 2,7.58.0 
 
 1.12,021 
 
 
 33 
 
 11.40 a. m. 
 
 26, 428 
 
 83.0 
 
 -<2.0 
 
 2, 435. 2 
 
 l;i5,885 
 
 
 38 
 
 1. 10 p. m. 
 
 26,557 
 
 84.0 
 
 84.0 
 
 t, 280. 2 
 
 140, 390 
 
 
 40 
 
 3. 00 p. m. 
 
 26, 684 
 
 86.0 
 
 86. i) 
 
 2,131. 1 
 
 146,095 
 
 
 45 
 
 4. 30 p. m. 
 
 20,726 
 
 86.0 
 
 78.0 
 
 2,068.4 
 
 1,53, .300 
 
 October 2 
 
 47 
 
 10. 15 a. 111. 
 
 26,710 
 
 86.5 
 
 84.0 
 
 2,172.0 
 
 156, 200 
 
 
 51 
 
 11.00 a. m. 
 
 20,838 
 
 86.0 
 
 85.0 
 
 2.002.7 
 
 158,704 
 
 
 53 
 
 12. 00 m. 
 
 26,930 
 
 90.0 
 
 89.0 
 
 I 909. 7 
 
 161,179 
 
 
 55 
 
 0. 30 p. ra. 
 
 26,910 
 
 93.0 
 
 90.0 
 
 1,914.4 
 
 163,885 
 
 
 58 
 
 1. 30 p. in. 
 
 26,950 
 
 90.0 
 
 90.0 
 
 1,874.7 
 
 167,988 
 
 
 61 
 
 2. 30 p. m. 
 
 26, 882 
 
 91.0 
 
 89.0 
 
 1,922.3 
 
 176,360 
 
 
 64 
 
 4. 00 p. m. 
 
 26,930 
 
 91.5 
 
 87.0 
 
 l.v:: 
 
 179,932 
 
 October 3 
 
 66 
 
 8. 30 a. in. 
 
 27, 070 
 
 88.0 
 
 80.0 
 
 1, -...7 
 
 182,706 
 
 
 68 
 
 9. 00 a. m. 
 
 27,128 
 
 86.5 
 
 86.5 
 
 1,750.4 
 
 186,053 
 
 
 74 
 
 n. 45 a. m. 
 
 27,196 
 
 90.0 
 
 89.0 
 
 1,678.5 
 
 192,315 
 
 September 29 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6. 00 p. m. 
 
 26,835 
 
 67.0 
 
 67.0 
 
 1,704.0 
 
 95,369 
 
 30.... 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6.00 a. m. 
 
 26,800 
 
 56.0 
 
 58.0 
 
 1,764.0 
 
 95,369 
 
 October 1 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6. 00 a. m. 
 
 27,000 
 
 67.0 
 
 65. 5 
 
 1,764.0 
 
 95,369 
 
 October 4 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6.00 p. m. 
 
 26,987 
 
 70.0 
 
 70.0 
 
 1,764.0 
 
 95,369 
 
 October 5 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6. 00 a. m. 
 
 26,973 
 
 49.0 
 
 51.0 
 
 1,764.0 
 
 95,369 
 
 October 2 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6. 00 a. m. 
 
 20,965 
 
 44.0 
 
 45.0 
 
 1,772.4 
 
 192,315 
 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6.00 p. ra. 
 
 27,018 
 
 75.0 
 
 76.0 
 
 1,772.4 
 
 192,315 
 
 October 3 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6. 00 a. ra. 
 
 26,990 
 
 47.5 
 
 48.0 
 
 1,772.4 
 
 192,315 
 
 
 Camp. 
 
 11.30 a. m. 
 
 27, 090 
 
 88.0 
 
 87.5 
 
 1,772.4 
 
 192,313 
 
 }'H 
 
 .» ?f! 
 
 r, i m 
 
\<i 
 
 124 
 
 li 
 
 h t 
 
 lii 
 
 DETKRMINATION OF ALTITl'IlE.^ HY llAROMETER. 
 Data. — Observations in Canada tie las Uvas — Continued. 
 
 Uat.' 
 
 Stiitiuii. 
 
 ][o\ir. 
 
 Heading 
 
 Attiubed 
 
 Detached 
 
 Altitude by spi- 
 
 Distance from 
 
 
 
 
 of barometer. 
 
 thermouu'ter. 
 
 thermometer. 
 
 rit level above 
 depot camp. 
 
 depot ciiinp. 
 
 i8r>;i. 
 
 
 h. m. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 Fed. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 October 3 
 
 Camp. 
 
 12.00 m. 
 
 27,087 
 
 88. 
 
 88.0 
 
 1,772.4 
 
 l!)2,.'i!5 
 
 
 Camp. 
 
 3. 00 p. m. 
 
 27,025 
 
 8(1.0 
 
 87.0 
 
 1,772.4 
 
 192,315 
 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6. 20 p. m. 
 
 26,9C5 
 
 fi2.0 
 
 62.0 
 
 1,772.4 
 
 192,315 
 
 October 4 
 
 Camp. 
 
 COO a. m. 
 
 2(1,975 
 
 48. 5 
 
 50.0 
 
 1,772.4 
 
 192,315 
 
 Results obtained by compi.tation. 
 
 
 
 
 Altitude by b. 
 
 irometer abovi 
 
 depot camp. 
 
 Differences between altitudes determined 
 
 
 Station. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 computed by — 
 
 
 by barometer and spir 
 
 t level. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Old method, using 
 Lee's tables. 
 
 New method, using 
 ohserved air tem- 
 peratures. 
 
 New mi.*hod, using 
 mean daily air 
 temperatures. 
 
 to 
 
 c 
 " . 
 
 11 
 
 o 
 
 New method, using 
 observed air tem- 
 peratures. 
 
 New method, using 
 mean daily air 
 temperatures. 
 
 1853. 
 
 
 /i. m. 
 
 Fret. 
 
 Feel. 
 
 Feel. 
 
 Feel. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Feel. 
 
 Sept. 28 
 
 37 & 58 
 
 5. 00 p. m. 
 
 219.9 
 
 21.i. 7 
 
 195.2 
 
 — 26.5 
 
 — 20.3 
 
 — 1.8 
 
 
 5(1 
 
 4. 15 p. m. 
 
 403.2 
 
 401.8 
 
 383. 1 
 
 — 18.9 
 
 — 17.6 
 
 + 1.2 
 
 
 49 
 
 3. 15 p. m. 
 
 724.7 
 
 718.9 
 
 707.9 
 
 — 4.3 
 
 + 1.5 
 
 +12.5 
 
 
 40 
 
 2.15 p.m. 
 
 928.3 
 
 906.3 
 
 899. 1 
 
 — 10.9 
 
 + 11.4 
 
 +18.0 
 
 
 34 
 
 1.20 p.m. 
 
 1078.6 
 
 1061.7 
 
 1046.8 
 
 — 22. 8 
 
 — 8.9 
 
 + 9.0 
 
 
 27 
 
 0. 30 p. m. 
 
 1189.0 
 
 1175.7 
 
 1157. 2 
 
 — 30.4 
 
 — 17.1 
 
 + 1.4 
 
 
 22 
 
 12.00 m. 
 
 K71.0 
 
 1251.1 
 
 1248.4 
 
 — 10.2 
 
 + 9.7 
 
 +12.4 
 
 
 18 
 
 11.00 a.m. 
 
 1420.0 
 
 1407.8 
 
 1396.9 
 
 — 43.0 
 
 — 20.8 
 
 — 9.9 
 
 
 14 
 
 10. 00 a. m. 
 
 1473. 
 
 1455.9 
 
 1463. 3 
 
 — 0.4 
 
 -f 10.7 
 
 + 3.3 
 
 
 7 
 
 9. 00 a. m. 
 
 1621.3 
 
 1596. 7 
 
 1623. :i 
 
 + 6.7 
 
 + 31.3 
 
 + 4.7 
 
 Sept. 30 
 
 1 
 
 7. 40 a. m. 
 
 1783. « 
 
 1755.5 
 
 1781.6 
 
 — 9.2 
 
 - 11.1 
 
 — 6.7 
 
 
 3 
 
 8. 00 a. m. 
 
 1818.0 
 
 1788.5 
 
 1815. 1 
 
 — 8.3 
 
 + 21.2 
 
 — 5.4 
 
 
 6 
 
 8. 20 a. m. 
 
 1867.8 
 
 1844. 9 
 
 1861.8 
 
 -f 6.2 
 
 -f 29.1 
 
 + 12.2 
 
 
 9 
 
 8. 45 a. m. 
 
 1935.4 
 
 1914.3 
 
 1928. 1 
 
 — 4.3 
 
 + 16.8 
 
 + 3.0 
 
 
 10 
 
 9. 00 a. m. 
 
 1070.6 
 
 1946. 7 
 
 1964. 5 
 
 — 2.9 
 
 + 21.0 
 
 + 3.2 
 
 
 12 
 
 10. 00 a m. 
 
 2032.9 
 
 2054. 3 
 
 2049. 5 
 
 + 12.1 
 
 — 9.3 
 
 — 4.9 
 
 
 15 
 
 11.05 a.m. 
 
 2138. 3 
 
 2168.3 
 
 2157.4 
 
 + 21.7 
 
 — 8.3 
 
 + 2.6 
 
 
 18 
 
 1.25 p.m. 
 
 2440. 
 
 2389.7 
 
 2370. 3 
 
 — 68.1 
 
 — 17.2 
 
 + 2.2 
 
 
 22 
 
 2. 30 p.m. 
 
 2673.8 
 
 2541.4 
 
 2601.2 
 
 — 55.2 
 
 -f- 77.8 
 
 + 17.4 
 
 
 27 
 
 3. 15 p. m. 
 
 2870. 1 
 
 2828.0 
 
 2810.6 
 
 — 60.0 
 
 — in. 5 
 
 — 1.1 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 31 
 
 10.30 a.m. 
 
 2798. 1 
 
 2767.1 
 
 2762.9 
 
 — 40.1 
 
 - 9.1 
 
 — 4.9 
 
 
 33 
 
 11 40 a m. 
 
 2463. 4 
 
 2399. 5 
 
 2403. 3 
 
 — 28.2 
 
 -f 35.7 
 
 +31.9 
 
 
 38 
 
 1. 10 a.m. 
 
 2308. 8 
 
 2277.0 
 
 2273. 2 
 
 — 28.6 
 
 + ,3.2 
 
 + 7.0 
 
 
 40 
 
 3. 00 p. in. 
 
 2144.5 
 
 2013. 1 
 
 2102.5 
 
 — 13. 1 
 
 + 18.3 
 
 +28.9 
 
 
 45 
 
 4. 30 p. m. 
 
 2066. 6 
 
 2049. 8 
 
 2067. 6 
 
 + I''' 
 
 -f 18.6 
 
 + 0.8 
 
 Ocl. 2 
 
 47 
 
 10.15 a.m. 
 
 2165.5 
 
 2187.0 
 
 2175.9 
 
 4- 0.5 
 
 — 15.0 
 
 - 3.9 
 
 
 61 
 
 11.00 a.m. 
 
 2024. 7 
 
 2012.4 
 
 1998.4 
 
 — 22.0 
 
 — 9.7 
 
 + 4.3 
 
 
DKTERMINATIOX OF ALTITUDES nY HAIJOSIETER 
 Besults obtained by computation — Continued. 
 
 126 
 
 
 
 
 
 Altitude liy barometer aliov 
 
 \ depot camp, 
 
 Ditfurenccs between altitudes determined 
 
 
 
 Station. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 computoil by- 
 
 ll Hi 
 
 -a u o o. 
 O 55 
 
 New method, using 
 mean dally air 
 temperatures. , 
 
 1 
 
 by barometer and spiv 
 
 t level. 
 
 Date 
 
 Old metlu'd, usinj; 
 Lee's tables. 
 
 New metliod, ti.sing 
 observed air tem- 
 peratures. 
 
 New method, using 
 mean daily air 
 temperatures. 
 
 1853 
 
 
 
 Ii. III. 
 
 Fed. 
 
 Fed. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Feel. 
 
 Fed. 
 
 Feel. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 2 
 
 63 
 
 12. 00 ra. 
 
 1937.9 
 
 1911.7 
 
 1884.7 
 
 — 28.2 
 
 — 2.0 
 
 -f25.0 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 0. 30 p. m. 
 
 1971.1 
 
 1934. 
 
 1903.8 
 
 — 56.7 
 
 — 20.2 
 
 + 10. G 
 
 
 
 58 
 
 1. 30 p. m. 
 
 1917.7 
 
 lyOG. 5 
 
 1876. 1 
 
 — 43.0 
 
 — 31.8 
 
 — 1.4 
 
 
 
 CI 
 
 2. 30 p. m. 
 
 198G. 2 
 
 1943. 3 
 
 191G.0 
 
 — 63. 9 
 
 — 21.0 
 
 + G. 3 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 4. 00 p. m. 
 
 1921.5 
 
 1895. 1 
 
 1874.8 
 
 — 51.9 
 
 — 2-,. 5 
 
 — 5.2 
 
 Oct. 
 
 3 
 
 G6 
 
 8. 30 a. m. 
 
 1809.8 
 
 1811.8 
 
 1811.8 
 
 + 7.9 
 
 -1-5.9 
 
 + 5.9 
 
 
 
 (18 
 
 9. 00 a m. 
 
 1772.7 
 
 1765.2 
 
 1744. 2 
 
 — 22.3 
 
 — 14.8 
 
 + G.O 
 
 
 
 74 
 
 10. 45 a. m. 
 
 ig;)2. 1 
 
 1703. 9 
 
 167,5. 3 
 
 + 1.3. G 
 
 — 25. 4 
 
 + .3.2 
 
 Sept 
 
 29 
 
 Camp. 
 
 fi. 00 p. m. 
 
 17.'>2. 1 
 
 171G.4 
 
 1752.3 
 
 + 11.9 
 
 -1- 47.6 
 
 + 11.4 
 
 Sept. 
 
 30 
 
 Camp. 
 
 e. 00 a. m. 
 
 174fi. C 
 
 1727.7 
 
 1793. 7 
 
 + 17.4 
 
 + 36.3 
 
 —29.7 
 
 Oct. 
 
 1 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6. 00 a. m. 
 
 171C. 1 
 
 1G90. 1 
 
 1757.1 
 
 -f 47.9 
 
 -f- 7.3.9 
 
 + 6.9 
 
 Oct. 
 
 4 
 
 Cam]). 
 
 0. 00 p. m. 
 
 1719.3 
 
 1700. 
 
 1738. 8 
 
 + 44.7 
 
 + G4.0 
 
 +25.2 
 
 Oct. 
 
 5 
 
 Camp. 
 
 0. 00 n. m. 
 
 1G91.7 
 
 1G49. 1 
 
 1749.7 
 
 + 72.3 
 
 -f-114.9 
 
 + 14.3 
 
 Oct. 
 
 2 
 
 Camp. 
 
 G. 00 a. m. 
 
 1G.30. 4 
 
 1G53. 3 
 
 1771.0 
 
 +142.0 
 
 -1-119.1 
 
 + 1.4 
 
 
 
 Camp. 
 
 (). 00 p. m. 
 
 17G8. 1 
 
 1755. 7 
 
 1768.8 
 
 + 4.3 
 
 -1- 16.7 
 
 ■ ;- 3.0 
 
 Oct. 
 
 3 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6. 00 a. ra. 
 
 1707. 7 
 
 1679. 4 
 
 1784. 5 
 
 + 64.7 
 
 + 93. 
 
 —12.1 
 
 
 
 Camp. 
 
 IL 30 a.m. 
 
 1794. 
 
 1784.7 
 
 1760.2 
 
 — 21.3 
 
 — 12.3 
 
 + 12.2 
 
 
 
 Camp. 
 
 12. 00 m. 
 
 1780.2 
 
 1778.2 
 
 1752.4 
 
 — 7.8 
 
 — 5.8 
 
 +20.2 
 
 
 
 Camp. 
 
 3. 00 p. m. 
 
 1797.0 
 
 177C. 2 
 
 1754.4 
 
 ■ - 24. G 
 
 — 3.8 
 
 + 18.0 
 
 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6.20 p.m. 
 
 1740.2 
 
 1707.8 
 
 17C6. 
 
 + 32.2 
 
 -f G4. G 
 
 + 5. 8 
 
 Oct. 
 
 4 
 
 Camp. 
 
 6. 00 a. ra. 
 
 1714. G 
 
 1G70. 7 
 
 1775.3 
 
 + 57.8 
 
 -flOl.7 
 
 — 2.9 
 
 No trial was made of Mr. Blodget's empirical table, for, as it was deduced from these very 
 observations, they would not give a fair idea of its value. As has been already mentioned, the 
 method was tested of using successively each place of observation for thi lower station, with 
 the next above it for the corresponding upper ; but, as might be expected, err-n's v.cre found to 
 be propagated, and to bo very considerably greater than when the sea level was constantly used 
 for the lower station. 
 
 The result of this investigation, confirming so fully the accuracy of the new method of com- 
 putation, cannot but be satisfactory. When it is remembered that two nice adjustments are 
 required in reading the barometer, it must be considered that a mean error of 9 feet, amounting 
 to only about nine thousandths of an inch of the mercurial column, is a wonderfully close 
 approximation, when the difference of the altitudes computed amounts to nearly 3,000 feet. That 
 this method has slight causes of inaccuracy, even in theory, is not denied ; but tliis result tends 
 strongly to show that practically their effect is unimportant.. It is not supposed that the mean 
 error in the altitudes on our survey is so small as 9 feet ; but that the profile is sufficiently 
 correct for all the purposes of a preliminary reconnaissance, I have not the slightest doubt. 
 
 \ In 
 
 ( I 
 
f^^^^ 
 
 126 
 
 DETKRMIXATION OK ALTITIIDKS ItY llAUOMKTEK. 
 
 :iij i: 
 
 III! 
 
 i^M! 
 
 Wlienever water-courses gave prnctical checks upon the relative altitudes of different stations, 
 as was often the ease, the profile hore tlie most careful study in a perfectly satisfactory manner, 
 and confirmed, without exception, the use of the mean daily air temperature, instead of the 
 observed, in the computation. 
 
 HEIGHT OK KORT KEADING; EXPLANATION OK TABLES OF BAROMETRIC OBSERVATIONS, ETC., IN 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 
 The great numher of observations taken at Fort Reading has enabled me to compute its alti- 
 tude in two different ways ; one of which is independent of the tables of horary and abnormal 
 correction. We had very careful hourly observations taken from July 22 to July 2G, and from 
 November 17 to November 22, inclusive. It is well known that a mean of the observations at 
 7 a. m., 2 p. m., and 9 p. m., differs very little from the mean barometric reading for the 
 whole twenty-four hours ; and, as five of the days on which the above mentioned observations 
 were taken were in the dry, and six in the rainy season, it is probable that a mean of their 
 mean readings thus found may. approximate to that of the year. It is 2'J.500 inches. The 
 corresponding mean air temperature, found by taking a mean of the observations at 7 a. m., 
 12 m., and 10 p. m., for ihe eleven days, is G2°.3 Fah. The altitude given by these data is 
 518 feet. 
 
 By the second method, I applied the tables as in other cases, and found the corrected mean of 
 all our observations at the fort, which were about GOO in number, and, with the corresponding 
 mean air temperature, computed the altitude. It is 544 feet, differing only 2C feet from the 
 other. I have adopted the first result on the profiles, as it is obtained from observations taken 
 with very great care, while many of the others are less reliable. 
 
 The tables in Appendix D exhibit the original data for the construction of lur profiles, 
 and the altitudes deduced from the observations. It must be remembered that all the altitudes 
 are referred to the level of mean tide at Benicia, as the barometric reading at the sea level 
 north of that place is not known. The column headed "corrected barometric reading" gives 
 the heiclitof the mercurial column, after the corrections for reduction to 32° Fahr., for instru- 
 mental error, and for horary and abnormal oscillation, have been applied. The very slight 
 difference between these corrected readings, when there are several taken at the same camp, 
 confirms the accuracy of the horary and abnormal tables. 
 
m 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ROUTE FROM SHASTA VALLEY, EAST OF SHASTA J5UTTE, TO FORT 
 reading; explored by LIEUT. R. S. WILLLVMSON, UNITED STATES 
 TOrOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1851. 
 
 Explanation. — rAiixY.— Ybkka in 1851.— Staut. — View y two I'As.se».— Wuioiit lakk. — W ateii hole. — PoiiruPiNE killed. — 
 
 TlHXKI) hack. — l'A»». — KXTEXDBU VIEW. — I'L'MICE-.STONE. DlFFICll.T TIIAVELLIXO. — No HATEIt Oil OIlAWt. — NaTI'UAL IIIUDOE. — 
 
 PEDUlaJAL — WaTEH in HS.S1 he. — liltAXCIl OF FALL IllVEll. — FaLL RIVER. — KoRD. — I.NDIAX.S. — PiT HIVER. — TuLE IIAFT. — 
 K.XPED1ENT. — PaS-S TlIKOldll WRSTEIIN CHAIN OF SIEIUIA NEVADA. — BATTLE CREEK. — CuW CREEK. — SETTLEMENTS. 
 
 As Lieut. Williamson proposed to add a short description of this expedition to his report, I 
 have compiled the following sketch from his field notes. 
 
 The exploration was made in accordance with instructions from Major P. Kearney^ 1st 
 dragoons. Lieut. Williamson's party consisted of twenty civilians, one of whom was Mr. 
 Freaner, subsequently killed by the Pit river Indians near the lake that now bears his name. 
 The expedition started from Yreka, then a little town called Shasta Butte city, and composed of 
 about forty houses made of canvas and wood. The population may be estimated from the fact 
 that five hundred and ninety-nine votes were polled for alcalde when Lieut. Williamson was 
 there. On July 3, a depot camp was made on Willow creek, about sixteen miles from the 
 town, and the preparations for the exploration commenced. A prismatic compass, with a sextant 
 and artificial horizon, were the only available instruments. 
 
 July 8. — To-day we started, and, after travelling about fifteen miles over a good route, 
 encamped near Sheep Rock. 
 
 July 9. — After passing over a gentle divide northeast of Sheep Rock, the road skirted a plain 
 evidently covered with water in the rainy season. We travelled about nine miles in a northeast 
 direction, and then turned southward, over low hills. In about ten miles we struck a fine little 
 stream in a prairie, and encamped. The grass was excellent ; and wild onions were abundant 
 in the vicinity. 
 
 July 10. — Ice, half an inch thick, formed last night. After travelling towards the east for 
 about five miles, we came to a shelf of black rock, fifty feet high, from which we had a fine view. 
 There seemed to be two breaks in the hills ; one towards the southeast, near a prominent conical 
 butte, and the other and lower one towards the northeast. Thinking our course to be interme- 
 diate between the two, I selected the latter. We soon reached a second shelf, higher than the 
 other ; and a short distance beyond crossed a small creek flowing through a prairie. Here we 
 struck a trail, which we followed up a mountain southwest of the pass, until it disappeared. 
 We continued our course to the summit. A large sheet of water, supposed to be Rhett lake, 
 lay abo..t twenty miles distant, in a northeast direction. A level, timbered valley, bordered 
 by hills, extended to the shore. We continued our course, and in about seven miles encamped 
 near a water hole. We killed a bear and porcupine on the route, and had already deer, ante- 
 lopes, and mountain sheep in camp. 
 
 i I 
 
 1 
 
I i 
 
 128 
 
 .lOL'KNAL Ol' A FOUMEK KXPLORAI'ION ItY MKl T. WILLIAMSON. 
 
 ss 
 
 I 
 
 k: 
 
 i 
 
 I'll' 
 
 t 
 
 It:: 
 
 July 11. — Thinking that we were gaining too much distnnco towards the east, I turned back, 
 and struck for the pass near the conical butte. After winding about in a dense mass of bushes 
 and small trees, and gradually ascending a long slope, we found ourselves within about half a 
 mile of the base of the peak. Turning tnwards tlie south we soon reached the summit of the 
 pass. The conical butte rose on our left, and a liigher rotmd hill on our right. Leaving the 
 train, Mr. Freaner and myself went to the top of the latter, and obtained an extended view in 
 every direction, except the northeast. We saw Mount Pitt, Klamath lake, and Shasta valley ; 
 but Rliett lake was hidden by the pine trees on the conical butte. Southward, as far as the 
 eye could reach, the country was densely timbered, and apparently tolerably level, but broken 
 by occasional low ridges. Lassen's butte was distinctly visible. Toward the southeast we saw a 
 strip of yellow, which appeared like a prairie with two or three small lakes in it. This was 
 supposed to be Fall River valley, distant about forty miles. While waiting for us, the men 
 found a little snow on the conical butte. We started to proceed in the direction of Fall River 
 valley, but it was impossible to keep a straight course, on account of the many obstacles 
 encountered. The country was covered with pumice-stone, and n few bare hills were merely 
 heaps of this substance. During the afternoon wo searched for water constantly, but in vain. 
 We encamped after sunset, witliout either water or grass, liaving travelled about twelve miles 
 from the pass. 
 
 July 12. — We started before sunrise, and followed a very winding course, on account of rocks 
 and manzanita bushes. At one place we came to a fissure 40 feet in width and still more in 
 depth, which it was necessary to cross. Fortunately we discovered a natural bridge, supported 
 by a very perfect arch, which afforded us a safe passage. Wliile struggling forward, one of the 
 men in tlie rear of the train discovered water in a deep hole, and we at once encamped. 
 Having watered the animals and prepared breakfast for ourselves, we again started, and forced 
 our way, with great difficulty, over a rocky pedrogal to the foot of a hill, where we found a 
 better road. I went witli Mr. Freaner to tlie summit, and saw the valley ten or twelve miles 
 distant, and separated from us by a densely timbered region, broken by low ridges. Wo con- 
 tinued our course, and soon reached a little prairie covered with flowers and grass, where we 
 encamped, and obtained water by digging. 
 
 July 13. — We started early this morning, and followed a winding course to avoid, and yet to 
 keep near, the rocky pedregal on our left. In about six miles we struck a small branch of Fall 
 river, flowing west of south. Crossing it, we soon found an Indian trail near its bank. In 
 about tliree miles the stream made a bend towards the east. We followed it, and in about 8.5 
 miles reached Fall river, flowing southeast. After passing down its bank for about four miles, 
 we encamped. The valley was open and covered with grass below camp, but above, timber 
 concealed the view. 
 
 July 14. — This morning we followed down the river to its mouth, a distance of seven miles. 
 About two miles below camp it was one hundred yards wide. We crossed it above the rapids, 
 near its mouth, at what would have been a good ford had the banks been cut down a little. 
 There was a large Indian rancheria near, and wo were joined by several of its inmates, who 
 professed themselves friendly. After giving them a few presents, we descended a steep bluff to 
 Pit river, and passing over it on a tule raft encamped on the stathern bank. My mercury had 
 been lost in crossing the pedregal, but I obtained a good observation of the sun for latitude by 
 using water instead. 
 
JOURNAL or A roUMKU KXI'LOrUTIOX IIV LIEUT. WILLIAMSON. 
 
 129 
 
 This (5pn:p of Lieutenant Williamson was in nearly the same spot as our Camp 20. On July 
 15, he followed almost the same trail that we subsequently did, througii Stoncman's ridge, and 
 encamped on Canoe creek, between our Camps 18 and 19. The following e.vtracts from iiis 
 journal describe his route from this camp. 
 
 July If). — We started early, and followed a westerly course. The road was good, although 
 occasionally rocky. After travelling about ten miles, and ascending two high ledges, we found 
 ourselves in a little prairie, in which there were two Indian rancherias. A .small creek, rising 
 among the hills, flowed through the prairie, and after spreading out into several branches 
 probably sank. Turning our course towards the south, we travelled about five miles to the 
 foot of a steep ascent. We gained the summit 'in about three hours, and encamped near the 
 sources of Battle creek, with an abundant supply of excellent grass and water. Lassen's Butte 
 was in plain sight towards the southeast. 
 
 July 17. — We started early this morning to follow a westerly course, and for several hours 
 were winding about among hills, rocks, and thick bushes. The road, however, was occasionally 
 good. At the expiration of this time we had reached the foot hills, which extend for a con- 
 siderable distance into the Sacramento valley. Soon afterwards wo struck the miiln branch of 
 Cow creek, which we crossed without difficulty. We encamped upon its banks, about a mile 
 from the crossing, after a hard day's march. The grass was excellent in the vicinity. Wo 
 felt very sensibly a great change in temperature, due to the difference in elevation between the 
 morning and evening camps. 
 
 July 18. — We travelled about sixteen miles down the creek to its junction with another 
 branch, and then turned towards the south. In a short distance we struck Lyon's trail, which 
 we followed to the Sacramento river. We crossed the stream, and encamped on Cotton-wood 
 creek, about two miles from Major Beading's house. 
 
 17 X 
 
 
 i 
 
 ■ la 
 
 a 
 
 II 
 
 "t! ' 
 
 i 
 
il 
 
•■■'ff 
 
 INDEX TO GENERAL llErORT. 
 
 Fmo. 
 
 AltltmU'R, .letorinhmtlon of 112-120 
 
 lliiroimlurs, ikfccts of 112 
 
 tiililu of corructlons for 113, 116 
 
 Borometrlc tiibloH in Appendix 1), iloBcription of 126 
 
 Cache creek ........ 67 
 
 Culupooya mountiiiiis, description of...... 34 
 
 railrou<I pass tliroiip;li 49-50 
 
 Camp S, on Why-cluis creek, liescription of 90 
 
 Canoo creek, valley of 60 C2 
 
 Cailon, Klamath river, description of (iS 
 
 Klamath river, railrr)ad character of 44 
 
 lower, of Pit river, railroad character of 42 
 
 Des Chutes river, description of . 45, 94,95 
 
 upper, of I'it river, railroad character of 4S 
 
 Cascade mountains, in Oregon Territory, description of 30-33 
 
 itinerary of first exploration among 77-79 
 
 itinerary of second exploration among 79-81 
 
 route of Lieutenant Abhot through 97-101 
 
 Cascades of Columhia, description of 32, 89 
 
 longitude of 13 
 
 Chit-tike ereeli, cafion of 85 
 
 Columbia river, in) practicability of constructing wagon road near 33 
 
 navigation of 33 
 
 reconnaissance u( - 88- 90 
 
 width of at Cascades 89 90 
 
 Dalles of C olunibia river, description of 88 
 
 Des Chutes river, callou of 45,94,95 
 
 country near head of 73-74 
 
 description of 28 
 
 entrance of canon 74-75 
 
 Des Chutes valley, general description of 28-29 
 
 Itinerary of first exploration in 83-90 
 
 itinerary of second exploration in 91-97 
 
 Divide between ICIamath marsh and Dos Chutes river 72 73 
 
 Escort, division of 81 
 
 loss of 102-105 
 
 loss of quartermaster and commissary- - 110 
 
 oflicers of 59,02 
 
 Tali river, mouth of G'i 
 
 valley of 128 
 
 Fort Dalles, altitude of 14 
 
 1 
 
 ■ ; 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 W 
 
i4!i 
 
 W\ 
 
 ' f 
 
 f 
 
 ;:t 
 
 I 
 
 132 INDEX. 
 
 iMirt MiiDcrt, dcHirlptlim of 'i'i 
 
 l.>n|.'itii(lo of l!* 
 
 * Full .lillll'X, Kitlllltillll of Ill) 
 
 Kort I.uii«i, vMully of lO'J 
 
 Kort ItcatlliiK, allitiidrof 1ft, 12(! 
 
 Idd.lityof 69 
 
 loMK'ltuilc' of U 
 
 ' I'oit Viiiuoiivur, iiltitmlu of. H 
 
 loii^'ltililu of 13 
 
 l''i'(!iiioiit'H Huppo.S('cl Hiiiniiiir trail ' RH 
 
 Krcmli K"l' I'l ili'nt'ilption of Ill 
 
 Oi'tnTiil topography, reinarkH on 29 
 
 (ioviriior I'liriy, intfrviuw wltli. ... 105 
 
 llidiiiM (liHliirlMiiiius.. lOV 1 J!) 
 
 gnlilo »ti-l()2 
 
 Kli;4;iiity 102 
 
 ImllntiH, I'i^'Ki'i'. tlnlr iniiili' of niii'ililiiiK' ''•'' 
 
 hontlllty of !)(i,107 109 
 
 Kliiniiitli, tliiir liiirial plai in, tlieir hulH, tlielr liorHon 09,70,71 
 
 K lama til, voralmlary of tlicir JaiifjiiaKt'.. 71 Tf 
 
 CoIiiniMa river, tlirir nioilii of liurlal K8 
 
 Pit river, liowH and arrowH of....... 61 
 
 Tit river, haliits of 03 "4 
 
 tlieir lament for the dead 87 
 
 llieir modes of eatehini; «ilnion 8'J,'J0 
 
 InstructioMM from the War Department to IJeuteiiant Ahliot - 11 
 
 frimi the War Department to Lieutenant Williamson 9-10 
 
 TnHtruments of detailied party of I,ienteniint Abliot t^.'i 
 
 of main party - .' 50 
 
 Klamatli marsh, ileseriptiim of 08-71 
 
 Klamath river and iln tributaries, denciiption of. 35 
 
 valley of (i«,72 
 
 Kliimuth waters, eliain of 28 
 
 Letter of Lieutenant Ahliot to Major liains lO-t-inS 
 
 of Lieutenant Williamson to Major Uains lU,'i-10t 
 
 of Mujor Kains to Lieutenant Williamson 103 
 
 to Si 1 relary of War, transmitting report 3-4 
 
 Lieutenant Hood ordered to return to eastern States 62 
 
 Lieutenant Sli«ridan ,arrivaliif 02 
 
 Lower Klamath laUe, exploration near 70-77 
 
 Maps, notes on - 11-14 
 
 Marysville, diseription of 57 
 
 McCumher's Klat, note on GO 
 
 Momitain eliains of northern California 36 
 
 Mpto-ly-ns river, euilon of 84,92-94 
 
 Natural hrldtje over liOSt river, deseription of 06 
 
 Nee-neo sprinRS 86 
 
 Oregon City, location of 102 
 
 Party, members of 56 
 
 skiteh of latter movements of 75 
 
 I'ass, Columbia river, deseription of 32-33 
 
INDEX. 
 
 188 
 
 I'linx, l'(i«t<r'H, wmtli of Mount II.id.I, di'Mirliitinn nf ''I^ 
 
 I'liHs rii'iii 111 lliiTii liiiHo (if Mciiiiil lliHiil, ilr«rii|itliin of •'^ 
 
 ranK, new, wmtli uf Mount lloml, iliKirlptinu of - •'" 
 
 Itlnumry of routu tliroiiKli "' '"' 
 
 ruilroiid cliuriictiT of "' 
 
 I'llMK, Nolllo'n, ill vnilitliill of till 
 
 nillroiiil ilmiiiitLi' of — 42 
 
 PiinH Houlli of Diiiiiinnil I'ciik, ilr»irl|illon of..... •I" 
 
 mil 1 1 mil I'liiirai'tir of '14 
 
 runs iintli of Mount I'itt, ilc«('ri|illon of 3I> 
 
 proliiiliUi nillioiiil uluiriictiT of -I'i 
 
 rit river, lorrnt orllioxriipliy of •i4 
 
 viil liy of 'i'> 
 
 I'luti'iiu liftweuii I'lt river nnd tho Den Oliiitcn viiUey 27 
 
 rrolili'H, notes on - 14 1' 
 
 I'lineKci' i|Ue ereeli, rafion of -- C'),!!! '.•■"> 
 
 I'u toK ereek 67 
 
 Hepoit, plan of 11 
 
 UliLtt lake 28, (i5 
 
 Itonuu Ilivei- valley, tlesi ription of .'!.') 
 
 Ituuto from Uoiiiclu to I'ort UcailinK, Keneral remark» upon '17 
 
 Itinerary of SO-.')'.) 
 
 railroad eharacter of 38 41 
 
 liouti! frinu Fort Reading to Vancouver, east of ( 'ancade moimtainn, penernl remarks upon .'!7 
 
 itlneraryof 59-75,8182 
 
 railroad eliaraetur of 41-45 
 
 Itoute from liciid of Pes CliuteK valley to I'ort DiUlca, Itinerary of 8.1 -Ul> 
 
 railroad cliaraeter of If) 40 
 
 Hiintc from Vancouver to I'ort lleadhi)?, west of Cascade Itange, general remarks upon 37 .'iS 
 
 itinerary of lOO-lll 
 
 rnilroad eharacter of. 47-55 
 
 lioute from Vroka to I'ort Ueuilin:;, former exploration of .... 127-129 
 
 Itoutcfl from Vreka to Fort Ucaiiinn, railroad cliaraeter of 53 55 
 
 Sacramento river at Kniglit's ranclio 57 
 
 Sacramento valley, cilumto of 20 
 
 deBcription of 2G,38 
 
 itinerary of route tlirouKli 66-59 
 
 products of 2(i 
 
 table of water-courses in 40-41 
 
 Salem, longitude of 12 
 
 Scott's valley, description of 35 
 
 route through Ho 
 
 Shasta buttc 30,110 
 
 Shasta valley, description of 35 
 
 Siskiyou mountains, description of 35 
 
 pass through 52-53 
 
 route over ion 
 
 Submerged forests, description of (ji) 
 
 Trinity river, description of !j(; 
 
 Trinity trail, description of. UO-llI 
 
 railroad character of j3 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 ^il 
 
301 
 
 fit 
 
 
 Hi 
 
 134 INDEX. 
 
 IVigii. 
 
 Tysch prairie, descriptidii of 86 
 
 Umpqim cation, description of 107 
 
 Umpqua mountninR, descriptiunof 34 
 
 passes tlirougli 50 
 
 Umpfpia valley, description of 31 
 
 railroad character of , 50 
 
 Upper Klamath lake, description of GG-G7 
 
 route near . G7 08 
 
 Variation of the needle, abnormal disturbance of 09-100 
 
 Warn Chuck canon, warm springs in 85 86, 90 
 
 Warn Chuck river, cafion of 85-8fi 
 
 Washington, return of the paiLy to 111 
 
 Why-chus creek. . 75 
 
 Willamette valley, climate of , 31 
 
 railroad character of - 48 
 
 routes through 82, 102, lOG 
 
 tables of water-courses jn 48-49 
 
 Wright lake 28, C5 
 
 Yrcka, description of 110 
 
 in 1851 127 
 
 : ' 1 
 
 i 
 
 :ff 
 
 i ■ 
 
 « 
 
 ilf! ^ 
 

 1 
 
 
 'H 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 m 
 
 iS 
 '7 
 
 m 
 
 U 
 )0 
 
 
 it 
 
 
 )0 
 
 
 57 
 
 1^^ . , 
 
 i8 
 
 H