■h^ m\ "^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /!/ L<*' M/i 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■ 5fi illM IIIIIU 1.4 112.5 2.0 1.8 1.6 ^ V \ \ ^\^ L n ^ f ntepcolonia Outing I aLoNg tHe shores OF THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE AND THROUGH THE PROVINCES BY THE SEA. MONTREAL: Sabiston'Litho. & Pub. Co. p 11: C3I) DEPSlRTMEISiT ♦ OF * !^?1ILVV?1Y5, * (^nHUt)^, COLLINGWOOD SCHREIBER, C. E., Chief Engineer and General Manager Canadian Gen ernment Railways, Ottaxva. INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY OF CANADA. D. POTTINGER, Chief Superintendent, 1 - - - - Moncton, N. B. P. S. ARCHIBALD, Chief Engineer, GEO. TAYLOR, General -Freight Agent, A. BUSBY, General Passenger Agent, ----- " «' H. A. WHITNEY, Mechanical Superintendent, . . - " " THOS. WILLIAMS, Treasurer and Chief Accountant, T. V. COOKE, General Storekeeper, . . - . - The Intercolonial Railway is the DIRECT ROUTE to the famous seaside and fishing resorts of the Lower St. Lo.wrence and Bale des Chaleurs, and of New Brunswicic , Nov a Scotia, - Prince Edward Island , Cape Breton and the Magdalen Islands. NEW and ELEGANT BUFFET PARLOR and SLEEPING CARS are run on Through Express Trains. 4> The Intercolonial is unequalled for comfort and safety in its passenger train equipment. Through Express Trains are brilliantly lighted by electricity and heated by steam 3^«l from the locomotive. The Westinghouse Automatic Air Brake is on all passenger train cars and engines. ri ROUND TRIP TOURISTS' TICKETS, SUMMER EXCURSION AND SEA BATHING TICKETS Good for passage betM'een first of June and last of October, Are for sale at all Principal Railway and Steamboat Agencies in Canada and the United States. ^0190 y' n K a: o « > tr- >< e « n ictfflff'Wri'^'JSfc'iTv; THIS IS A PREFACE. HAVE been told that there are well authenticated instances of people who read all that was worth reading in the first edition of this book, because they liked the preface. While this is less remarkable than if they had read the preface because they liked the book, it is pleasing to any getter up of guides to know that anybody but himself and the proof reader will peruse his work, just as if it were a Book of Jokes, or one of Zola's realistic narratives of life among the lowly. In the consciousness of this, he can rise superior to the author of the biggest dictionary on earth. With this intent there is a preface to this edition, though there is nothing to be explained, and no earthly need of an introduction of any kind. I have no idea how many editions of the Intercolonial Guide have been sent out, but the rapidity with which they have been exhausted, proves that a book, well printed and nicely illustrated, will not fail to have a large circula- tion, if it is distributed free of charge, and the distributor is as active as he ought to be. A knowledge of this should bring much comfort to young and struggling authors. This is the second revision of the original story. It was all true enough in the first instance, but this is a great and growing country, and every year brings changes. Even if this were not so, it would be impolitic tc tell so much that nothing could be added. Men who write guide books must live with an eye to the future. While the present edition contains much that was in the others, either word for word, or disguised with more or less ingenuity, a large amount of really fresh matter has been scattered through the pages in such a way that, to be sure of finding it all, the whole book must be read. It may also interest the compilers of certain other guides to know that some typographical errors, which they have been copying without credit, have been corrected so as to make the matter more worthy of appropriation than in the paste Apart from any fresh errors that may occur this time, the following pages do not tell half the truth. That is because there is not room for it. No book can say, in reasonably brief compass, all that ought to be said of ik1 PREFACE. this country and its attractions. If it successfully hints at what may be enjoyed, the traveller can have plenty of fun in finding out the rest for himself. As far as space would allow, I have tried to be truthf il, and have, ia some instances, put the figures in fish stories considerably below those fur- nished by the men who said they weighed and counted the fiih. While their statements wire probably true, a stranger might be disposed to doubt them^ and so have a distrust in regard to other allegations which it is important he- should believe, whether they are true or not. A few dozen, or even a few hundred fish, should not be allowed to interfere with the more important interests of a great national highway. ' V If there is anything else about whicii the reader is in doubt, further explanations may be had by addressing f f W. KILBY REYNOLDS. St. John, N.B., May, 1891. il <) %■ V '^ ■I' . ;^y«ia>^i;^]JH|i^^»^iii _ |_ i,»«~._»— f— . . .p -, | ..|. Jr. Plle8> .^. IPenibroke Ooulonge Renfrew *^^•^;^'^. i5^ PikCinc ^Arnprloi'w^^ St. Qa"brlel THREE PIVEF .V' ^oucets ^Nicdlet J^ AfQyi JoHotte( St. Lin ^ r^ Ste. Therfiaft>%^ f3^''T!./" r ''t-i Jm li:k^:^oviP. '"'^^abaska St. Jerome, ^e-vv^ fSDTTA ^^A cas;^ st.ljiim'bi-i't )^^^ St. Giiilllauine ^ l. s r ^ 1 yMansfleld PITTSBURGH \ G/oeuvlUe -ii 2,480 MltES _^ (anada and \\s ConnecHons. m. 1 1, . ■ li*- ^•ut S3 > > OPPaWil$>»> ff^ Wpl. ]r| WIII ■WWwiwawWBW* A RAMBLE AND A REST. 1 ESS than a generation ago the Maritime Provinces of Canada were as far ^ removed from the ordinary course of tourist travel as is the Island of Newfoundland to-day. Within a score of years, even, their beauties were unknown save to those who were willing to sacrifice their comfort, journey without the aid of railways and rough it for hundreds of miles in what was then, as much of it is now, a land of the forest and stream. The railway era had begun, but there was little more than a beginning. Here and there was a piece of road connecting two points, which were then, and seemed destined to be, unimportant and slow of growth. Wide gaps separated the principal ■cities, and a wider gap separated the provinces by the sea •from the rest of the great Dominion. The most convenient way of reaching this part of the world from Quebec, or any point west of it, was by a round-about railway journey through the United States, and thence by a sea voyage to St. John or Halifax. The tourist who wrote a book came occasionally and found much to interest him. Then he went home and told the world what a quaint and •curious country he had found by the shores Down East. Under the most favorable circumstances he had seen very little of it, but he knew more about it than most of his readers knew, and his slory, a burlesque though it might be, was an authority with the rest of the world. Since then the times have ■changed. In the meantime, busy hands were at work in the Provinces. The gaps were closing. The construction of the Intercolonial Bailway had been one of the terms of Confederation, and year by year the work was pushed forward until there appeared one of the most substantially constructed and best ■equipped lines in the world. To-day there are about 1,200 miles of Govern- ment Railway connecting the city of Quebec with the Maritime Provinces, while the numerous connections, under the control of private companies, aid in giving access to some of the most attractive places for summer travel to be found on the continent of Americ In former years, before the American tourist had been awakened to the possibilities of this country, the usual goal of summer journeyings was the city oi' Quebec. Reaching that place the steps were retraced, and with good reason, for beyond it, to the south and east, the map showed nothing to tempt the pleasure seeker further. On the map of to-day may be traced a line which stretches along the Lower St. Lawrence, through the fanied Metapedia Valley, skirting the equally famous Baie des Chaleurs, and on through New Brunswick and Nova Scotia to the city of Halifax. Arms reach out here and there, reaching to St. John on the west, and Sydney, Cape Breton, on the east, while still another branch traverses the Garden of the Gulf, known as Prince Edward Island. This is the Intercolonial Railway. Built from a commercial point of view, the wonderful opportunities for the health and pleasure seeker were never dreamed of in the early days. Now it has become the great avenue of travel for those who seek rest and recreation in a glorious summer land. Not that there is ever a crowd and a crush, such as the true pleasure seeker aims to avoid. In the area of territory reached by this railway there are so many places which attract that the lover of the quiet in nature can always find hisjpeaceful haven. It is a country of refreshment and rest for those who desire such, as well as a paradise for the fisherman and sportsman. One can] enjoy the solitude of nature, free from the intrusion of the crowd, and yet enjoy the j)rivileges of the daily mails and the telegraph. And withal it is a part of the earth in which one may enjoy a maximum amount of pleasure with a minimum of outlay. To the world-weary tourist, who has been used to the confusion of the conventional summer resort, there may come a vision of this country, — a country which lies by the sea aud is fanned by cooling breezes from the ocean. In this land are green hills, shady groves and fertile valleys. From the distant mountains the crystal brooks come leaping with the music of gladness, and join with noble rivers in whose clear waters dwell lordly salmon and scarce less lordly trout. Near at hand are forests, as yet so little disturbed that the moose, caribou and bear, now and again visit the farm- yards of the adjacent settlements, and gaze in bewildered surprise at the man whose hand is raised to slay them. Along the shore, for hundreds of miles, lie land-locked harbors, where even the frail bark canoe may float in safety, yet upon the waters of the ocean, and upon the smooth sand beaches of which a child may venture into the buoyant salt water and fear not. In this country is scenery at times of sweet pastoral simplicity ; at times of sublime grandeur. It is a land wherejcivilization has made its way, and yet not marred the beauty of Nature. It is a country where the traveller will find much that is novel, much that^will charm, and much that will ever remain to him as a sweet remembrance of a pleasant clfme. It is wholly a matter of choice as to what point is chosen by the traveller for his entrance into this region which has so much in store for him. All roads lead to it ; but, if coming ♦ om the west, after having seen the great cities, and the vast resources of th,^ Upper Provinces, he will begin at the beginning and start at mrnmrn" 4 THE CITY OF QUEBEC. It is a restful place, and a fitting point from which to enter upon a land which offers rest. It is unique among the cities of the continent. Could one forget his paat and live only in the thought of his surroundings, he might imagine himself dropped down in some corner of Europe. To him who has come from the busy cities to the south and west, everything is strange and new. Other places anticipate the future ; Quebec clings fondly to the paat. It is well that it should be so, for, in this practical and prosaic age, but few cities retain the halo of romance that surrounded them in their early years. New York may afford to grow wealthy and forget New Amsterdam, but the Quebec of to-day is much the Quebec of the centuries that are dead and gone. The man who has read the story of Quebec, and is prone to attach a sentiment to the ancient and historic city, should have his first view from the water or the opposite shore. There he will see the stronghold as it has been pictured to him and as he has dreamed of it. The cliffs, the citadel, the spires, the tin roofs glistening in the sunlight,— all seem very real to him, and he longs to enter the city so rich in the legends of the past. If he wanders through the lower town, it may be that the first thing to attract his eye will be a church, bearing on its front the date of 1688. It was begun in that year, and when, two years later, the people ascribed to Heaven the scattering of England's fleet, under Sir William Phipps, they instituted the fete of Notre Dame des Victoires, which title, upon the occasion of a later victory, was bestowed upon the church. It is one of the monu- ments of the city, but by no means the oldest, nor is it the less interesting from the fact that it was reduced nigh to ruin in the fierce cannonading that preceded the planting of the flag of England on the citadel. Then, having seen this, let the visitoj glance at the thrifty French farmers and their house- hc'ds, as they present a bright and animated picture of the present, in the open square near at hand. There is more to be seen in the lower town, but let us hasten up that curious passage known as Breakneck Stairs, take a turn to the left, and we are on what is, historically, holy ground. There is so much to be seen that only the local guides can point it out, and even they are often sadly lacking. Everywhere are monuments of a strange and eventful history. Yonder is the Basilica, or French cathedral, begun in 1647, when gay Louis XIV was king, and the star of France shed a bright light over the eastern and western worlds. The edifice was conse- crated in 1666, and, with the exception of the church at St. Augustine, Florida, is the oldest on the continent. There are treasures within its walls, apart from the golden vestments and rich ornaments, some of which have been the gifts of kings. There are here rare paintings, some of them dating back to the time when French art received a new impetus under the protec- tion of Henry IV ; and there, too, is Our Saviour on the Cross, by VanDyck. In the troublous times of France, when neither art nor religion were held sacred, faithful hands guarded these pictures and placed them beyond the reach of the vandal mob. I^ter, they were brought to the new world and placed within the old cathedral, and there it is fitting they should ever remain. Let us emerge tVom the venerable pile into the busy street, where the bustle of the nineteenth century jars upon the ear. Just across the way is the site of the Jesuit college, founded in 1635, whence came forth the discoverer of the Mississippi River, and others whose names can never be forgotten. Among them were those brave, unselfish men, the Jesuit missionaries M'ho bore the cross into the trackless forest, to die amid torture, praying Heaven for its forgiveness of their savage foes. Of a truth we tread historic ground. We are within the walls of one of the most notable cities of America — one of the most famous places in the world. There are cities which are more fair to look upon ; there are some which the mere pleasure seeker esteems more highly; and there are many which have distanced it in the march of progress. There is but one Quebec, —old, quaint and romantic, — the theatre which has witnessed some of the grandest scenes in the dramas played by nations. The story of Quebec is recorded in history, but no historian can do justice to the theme. From the day when the fleet of the intrepid Cartier cast anchor on these shores down to the hour when the last gun was fired in anger from yon batteries, the story is a romance which fiction cannot surpass. What scenes of hope and fear, of deep patience, undaunted courage, and unflagging zeal, have these old rocks witnessed. What dreams of ambition, what bold projects for the glory of God and the honor of France, have here been cherished. Hither, from across the sea, came heroes. Some sought fame, and found nameless graves ; some g sped for wealth, and miserably perished ; while some, animated solely by a zeal for the cross, won martyrs' crowns in the distant wilderness. For a century and a half the banner of France waved on this rocky height. Priest, soldier and citizen had followed the " star of empire " to the western world and found themselves in another France, of which Quebec was to be the Paris, and within the vast territories of which should arise a mighty nation. Here was the seat of the power of France in America ; within these walls were held the Councils of State ; and from these rocks went forth the edicts for the temporal and spiritual guidance of the people. For nearly a century and a quarter the English flag has floated over the citadel, but the language, customs and religion of France remain. The Van- dalism of modern improvement has not spoiled the features of Quebec. Some of the old historic buildings are gone, but many remain. We may still view the solid masonry of two centuries ago. We may stand where the people of the Ancient Capital stood to praise God for deliverance from the invaders ; we may linger amid the shadows of the old cathedral, among rare old paint- ings by master hands, and think of the days when these walls echoed the Te Deums for the victories of France. We may roam through queer, crooked .,^-i»i i ^mmmm^immmmmmw-^ 4 ■ ■ > streets, and enter quaint old houses, in the dark corners of which we almost look for ghosts to come to us from the by-gone centuries. Of all the French settlements 'n Canada, Quebec best retain<5 its ancient form. The hand of time has swe Jt away the ruins of 'Port Royal, and the grass grows over what was once the well nigh impregnable L(iuiabourg ; but Quebec remains, and will reman, the Niobe of the r-Jas of France in the western world. Here lives Europe in America ; here the past and the present meet together ; here the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries jostle each other in the narrow streets. Everyone visits the citadel, and is impressed with the wonderful natural advantages of the position. Had Montcalm remained within these walls, the courage of Wolfe would have been displayed in vain. As it was. fifteen min- utes changed the destiny of New France, and made two names inseparable and immortal. Ascend a bastion and the panorama of the St. Lawrence and its shores is simply superb. Here one could sit for hours " And come and come again, That he might call it up wh»n far away." To see the places usually visited outside of Quebec, one may employ a carter to advantage. There are plenty of them, and some of the local guide books give them a high character for honesty, but the safe course is to make an agreement as to price before starting, which agreement is aTivcd at by a species of Dutch auction, commencing at the figures named by the carter and bidding down until a fair price is reached. The more carters there are present the more interest is attached to the proceedings, and the better chance there is of a good bargain. The men, as a rule, are cheerful and obliging, so mueh so, that when you trust to them as guides, they will tell you more than the historian and geographer ever dreamed of in their philosophy. A book written by a foreigner on the basis of a carter's narrations would be a very readable volume. Outside of the city you will drive to the Plains of Abraham, and picture out the scene of that eventful morning in September, a century and a quarter ago. The inscription on one side of Wolfe's monument is as graphic and expr.'^'ssive as any sentence in the English language : " Here died Wolfe victorious ! " It speaks volumes in the compass of a breath ; it is sublime in its brevity, Let those who love a scene of tranquil beauty go at the close of a day in summer to the Dufferin Terrace and linger during the long twilight of the evening. The heat and glare have passed away, and a gentle breeze comes from the river. The last rays of the setting sun are gilding the hill on the shores beyond, while the line of the distant mountains is blending with the sky. For miles and miles the eye follows the rivet as it flows in silent grandeur to the sea. Distant sails seem like the white wingi> ot sea birds, while " day in melting purple dying," lulls the mind into a dreamy calmness. 10 The shadows deepen. The lights of Levis begin to cluster ; the houses in the Lower Town are becoming more ghostly in the gathering darkness ; a. sound of soft music comes from au open casement. We are amid scenes, fraught with strange memories. Here stood the stately Castle of St. Louis,, where, for two hundred years, the Frinch and English rulers held their court. Its glory departed amid a whirlwind of fire. Far below we can trace the out- line of a street. It is Champlain Street. How black it looks ; it reminds us of the darkness of that winter morning, long ago, v.'hen Richard Montgomery and his men rushed through it to tli^ir death. Everywhere around us havt the horrors of the war been felt ; and to-night all is so peaceful that the thought of war seems out of harmony with the scene. The bells from the shipping in the harbor sound musically through the quiei air ; the plaintive notes of the bugle are borne to us from the citadel ; and the flash and roar of the evening gun tells of night fallen upon the Ancient Capital. Poets have sung of Quebec, but it is a poem of itself which no language can express ; its memories linger in the mind like the sweet remembrance of harmonious music heard in the years long passed away. THe LoWefj ST. LaWreNce. It has cost the British Government millions of dollars to cons truct the system of fortifications that crown the heights of Levis, on the opposite side of the river from Quebec. The chatices are that the guns will never be fired in angor, and that ocean steamers, rather than cannon, will continue to yield the smoke which casts the shadows on the broad and beautiful St. Lawrence The journey over the Intercolonial Railway begins at Levis, and for the next two hundred miles or so the traveller passes through a purely French- Canadian country. One after another the typical villages come in view, with their low-lying building: and quaint cottages, built to withstand the keenest cold of winter. In the midst of these looms up the ch urch, usually a sub- stantial edifice of stone, while here and there a large wayside cross, on some distant hill, stands out in bold relief against the sky. A quiet people are these habitants of the Lower St. Lawrence, simple in their tastes, primitive in their ways and having an abiding devotion to their mother tongue and mother church. The opening up of the country has changed them a little, in the larger villager, but as a whole they are much as they have been for the last two hundred years. Their ways are nearly us the ways of their fathers. The railway and telegraph of the nineteenth century run through a country in which hundreds of people ure to all intents and purposes in the seventeenth century. Not to their disrespect be this said, but as showing the tenacity with which their adhere to their language, manners and customs. They are as conservative a-< any people on earth. Where innovations are thrust upon them by the march of progress they adapt themselves to the changes ; but where they are left to themselves they are happy in the enjoyment of the life their fathers led, and are vexed by no restless ambition to be other than they r I * } II '- have been. Their wants are few and easily supplied ; they live peaceful and moral lives ; and they are filled with an abiding love for their language and a profound veneration for their religion. By nature light-hearted and vivacious, they are optimists without knowing it. Inured to the climate, they find en- joyment in its most rigorous seasons. French in all their thoughts, words and deeds, they are yet loyal to the British crown and contented under British rule. The ancient laws are secured to them by solemn compact ; and their language and religion are land.narks which will never be moved. In places where the English have established themselves, some of the habitants understand the language of the intruders, but none of them adopt it as their own. The mingling of races has a contrary effect, and the English tongue must yield to the French. There are many Englishmen in this country whose children do not understand a word of their father's native tongue ; but there are no Frenchmen whose children are ignorant of the language of France. Where the advent of the tourist has not robbed the native of his simplicity of character, he is likely to make a favorable impression on the stranger. He is the type of a peculiar people, many of whom are in very humble circum- stances. Among the elders books are often sealed mysteries ; it is enough for them to know what their church teaches, and for them to obey it. Their condition of life is not such as conduces to refinement, but they have much of that true politeness which is dictated by sincerity, and they seek to fulfil the stranger's wishes as a matter of plain duty. ' One of the most familiar sights, on the train, at the stations or trudging along the highway, is the sombre-garbed French priest. The village cure i& a man whom it is a pleasure to meet. VVell informed, affib'.e, and a lover of the land in which he lives, there is nothing of the ascetic in his nature. His lot may not be cast amid the surroundings of which he once dreamed, but wherever he may be his life is one of devotion to the cause of his faith. He is of necessity a guide and counsellor in mxny things apart from his priestly functions, and his people are ever ready to heed him. He is a pastor whose life is devoted to his flock. Passing a number of picturesque villages, the first summer resort of any note is Kamouraska, reached from St. Paschal station, which is 89 miles from Levis. Before reaching the latter point, one may stop at Ste. Anne, where there is a college, accommodating about 300 students, and where there is a convent of the Grey Nuns. If he is interested in local traditions, and has read Abbe Casgrain's story of La /ongieuse, he may visit Riviere Quelle, which takes its name from the tragedy of which Madame Houel was the heroine, in the days when the Iroquois roamed these shores. There he may see the rocks on which, it is said, the tracks of snowshoes and the imprints of human hands and feet were visible in former years. A drive of five miles from St. Paschal brings one to Kamouraska, a village beautifully situated on the shore of the St. Lawrer.ce. It is located on a 12 poiat which reaches seaward, and has a fine, well sheltered sand beach about half a mile in length. The visitors here are largely those who own or hire cottages by the season, and who seek for more quiet and rest than can be found at the larger watering places. Of recent years nidiiy strangers have found out the beauties of the place, and it is becoming more popular v'^very season. It has great natural advantages, and the bathing is especially good. A number of picturesque islands in the vicinity afford additional pleasures to boating parties. Kamouraska has much to commend it to the tourist. At many places along this shore, only a narrow strip of land separates the 45t. Lawrence from the head waters of the river St. John and its tributaries, in New Brunswick. These places, affording as they do ready means of com- munication, are called portages. Twenty miles below St. Paschal this dis- tance between the v.aters is 26 miles, and hence the name of the village of Notre Dame du Portage. It is a quiet, retired spot, but its fine beach and «xcellent facilities for bathing make it a very enjoyable resort for the families who spend their summers there. RiVlERE DU Loup. Nobody ever stopped at Rivii^re du Loup because the first impression of the village, as seen from the railway station, gave the idea of a popular sum- mer resort. There is a railway look about the place, and with good reason, for it is an important point on the Intercolonial, and before that road was built it was the eastern terminus of the Grand Trunk line. Here also are the general oflfices of th*^ Temiscouata Railway, which runs into New Brunswick and connects with the systems that open up the western part of that province. Yet Riviere du Loup is a summer resort as well, and one of long established reputation. A long and somewhat hilly road leads from the station to what, though apparently a part of the village, is known as Fraserville, in honor of the family of Fraser, in whom the seigneurial rights have long been vested. Beyond this again is the St. Lawrence, with all its splendid privileges of bath- ing, boating, shooting, and fishing, in the proper seasons. Most of the deal- ing men of Canada, including its governors-general, have spent portions of their summers here, and they have all been pleased with the place. Apart from its own attractions, it is a very convenient centre from which one may go to various points, either by the water or back into the woods where fish and game abound, making this the headquarters for the deposit of luggage and the receipt of mail matter. While he remains here, however, there is much to attract him. The views are charming, the walks and drives varied and beautiful, the bathing facilities excellent, while the shooting and fishing in the immediate vicinity afford ample recreation. Fine views may be had from many points. Situated near the confluence of the Riviere du Loup and the St. Lawrence, and being on the shore of the latter, the place abounds in picturesque scenery of all kinds. Near the railway, the smaller river has a descent of ?nore than 200 feet, by a succession of falls which make their way 1 . 1 . t I »3 through a gorge over which high and precipitous rocks stand sentinel. In the vicinity, " hil's peep o'er hills," clothed in all the varying hues of green, while toward the St. Lawrence the open country, sprinkled with well finished houses, makes a pleasing contrast to the rugged aspect of the land which lies in the rear. Upon the shore a glorious prospect is open to the view. Here the estuai^ .. .uens in its journey to the sea, and the mountains on the northern shore, a score of miles distant, stand out in bold relief against the clear blue sky. Upon the waters just far enough away to " lend enchantment to the view," are the white-winged argosies of commerce, bearing the flags of every maritime nation. At times a long, low shape on the waves and a dark, slender cloud floating lazily away mark the path of the ocean steamship. Nearer the shore are smaller craft of all sizes and shapes— manned by fishers, traders, and seekers after plea- sure. If one longs to join them, a boat is at hand and soon is dancing on the gentle billows, while the sea birds skim the waters in their circling- ' flights, and the solemn-eyed loupmarin rises near at hand, van- ishes and rises again, as if sent by Neptune to demand the stranger's errand. It was from these creatures, say some, that the river derived its name, rather than from the ill-visaged wolf of the waters'abound[in'all kind of crea- tures, great and small. The chief of these is the white whale, the Beluga Borealisy which is usually, but erroneously, termed the white porpoise. Its length is from four*^een to twenty-two feet. RIVIERE DU LOUP. and each carcass yields something over a hundred gallons of oil. This oil, when refined, is worth about a dollar a gallon, and as there is no scarcity of the creatures, the fishery might be made a very valuable one. The halibut and sturgeon come next in order of size, after them the salmon, and then all the small fish common to this latitude. Returning to the shore, if the day is bright and warm, the long line of smooth beach, abounding in cosy nooks and corners, invites a bath. The adjective " warm " is the correct one for this part of the continent in the summer, it being a relative term which denotes an absence of cold without an excess of heat. It is never hot here. The days when coats, collars, and cuffs become a burden and humanity wilts in the shade are unknown en ? these shores. The rays of the midsummer sun are tempered by gentle breezes, which invigorate the system, and a gambol amid the waters causes a degree of exhilaration which once enjoyed is not soon forgotten. ACROSS THE BROAD RIVER. Steamers calling at Riviere du Loup furnish opportunities for visiting the more notable watering places on the northern shore. Mention may be made of Murray Bay and Tadoussac, but by far the most wonderful sight for the tourist is the famed Saguenay River. It is one of the most remarkable of nature's works in a continent where natural wonders abound. Bayard Taylor has described it as "a natural chasm, like that of the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for sixty miles through the heart of a mountain wilder- ness." This terse description is a word photograph, but he who would grasp the details of a strange picture must see the Saguenay itself. Its waters, black and silent, have vast depths. The river is said to be deeper, by 600 feet, than the mighty St. Lawrence into which it empties. There are people of the country who believe its depths cannot be fathomed, and they tell of thousands of feet of line which have been paid out in the vain attempt to find bottom in certain places. Let one imagine such a river flowing between walls of rock, which tower in places to a height of nigh 2,000 feet, and he will realize the significance of such names as Cape Trinity, Cape Eternity and Eternity Bay. In the majesty and gloom of such surroundings, the reflective mind must ever feel the most profound reverence and awe. At the mouth of the Saguenay is Tadoussac, a wonderful old settlement, with enough eventful history of its own to supply material for a volume, were the records but available. It is undoubtedly the oldest European settlement in Canada, and perhaps in America. Before jCharaplain began to build Quebec, it existed. Nay, before Jacques Cartier left St. Malo to find out Canada, near four centuries ago, Tadoussac was the resort of the Basque fishermen, whjse fathers had resorted thither before them. One writer, W. H. H. Murray, has evolved the theory that not only were the Basques here before Columbus was born, but that their ancestors, the sea-roving Iberians, visited this harbor even before Christ was sent to man or Rome was founded. So it is with profound icverence that one looks upon this spot, which is historically older than the country of which it is a part. It was the ancient metropolis of Canada, the chief trading station before one of the cities of to- day had sprung into existence. Here was erected the first stone house, and here, too, was the first church. The present structure, a modern affair dating back scarcely 150 years, is built upon the site of the first place of worship, and it is said that the Angelus is rung out to-day with the bell by which it was sounded well nigh four hundred years ago. It is of this bell that a strange story is told — a story not made mythical by its antiquity, but coming so near our own times as to be told by those now living who heard it from those who were living then. It has appeared in 15 various forms, but so far as is known, not in such a way as to be accessible to the ordinary traveller. For this reason, and because it is worthy of preser- vation, an outline is given here. In all that pertains to the history of Canada from the advent of Cartier until the cession to England, religion is everywhere interwoven. The courage zea.\ and self devotion of the Jesuit missionaries will be remembered while the world endures. They never wearied or looked back, and long after the confis- cation of their property and the suppression of their order they continued their labors among the savages. The last of the Jesuits in Canada is believed to have been Pere Coquart, whose grave is at Chicoutimi, nearly a hundred miles up the Saguenay. With him in his labor of preaching the Gospel was Pere Jean Baptiste Labrosse, a goodly — nay, from all that is told, a saintly man, whose tomb is at Tadoussac. For nearly thirty years the gentle P^re Labrosse wrought to bring the Indians to a knowledge of the cross, and in 1782 he had reached the allotted age of three score and ten, yet, as with Moses, "his eye was not dim nor his natural force abated." On the loth of April in that year he spent the evening with his friends at Tadoussac, but at nine o'clock he arose from their midst, with a look of strange peace on his face, and bade all farewell until eternity. He would die at midnight, he said, and when his spirit left the flesh the church bell would toll to tell his people that he was gone from among them. He departed. At midnight the bell tolled, the people hastened to the church, and there before the altar, as if in a peaceful sleep, P(ire Labrosse lay dead. At the same hour that night, in every settle- ment where the departed missionary had preached, from the head waters of the Saguenay to the Baie des Chaleurs, the bells of the churches, tolled by invisible hands, bore to his cri verts the tidings of his entering into rest. When moming came a dense darkness overhung the Saguenay. On the St. Lawrence a fearful storm was ragng, and the huge masses of drifting ice threatened destruction to any craft, even within the well sheltered harbor. Yet P6r_g Labrosse had (greeted that a boat be sent to He aux Coudres, sixty miles (flstant, that Pere Compain might come to Tadoussac and inter his re- mains with the forms of the church. Four men, hrm of faith, launched a canoe, and as it advanced the ice floes parted, leaving smooth water for its passage. So it was until He aux Coudres was reached, and there, on the shore, stood Pere Compain, who told them of their errand before they could Announce it. The bell of his church had tolled at midnight, a yoice had spoken, telling of the death of P6re Labrosse md of the mission of the four men who would come to the island. Such is the story of the good Jean Baptiste Labrosse and the bell which rings to day in the little church which stands near the shore in the harbor of Tadoussac. From the Saguenay back to Riviere du Loup is a pleasant trip of a summer day. The air is so clear that the view of both shores is at all times such as to charm the eye. On the north side are the Laurentian Mountains, which reach from Labrador to the remote regions of Lake Superior, and Q u < M BC H S5 O K o en f a (x) < H M EC H S5 O O !?; a t/5 o :^ CO along these shores attain their greatest height, rising to 2,000 feet at Cape Tourmente. With certain conditions of the atmosphere, singular mirages are sometimes seen as the south shore is approached, and one in particular, among the islands of Riviere du Loup and Kamouraska, is worthy of special note. All the lower St. Lawrence is full of beauty, as well as rich in historical re- miniscences and traditions. FORESTS AND STREAMS Taking Riviere du Loup as a centre, the sportsman has a field only limited by his time and inclination to shoot and fish. Nature has been prodigal in her gifts, and though Indians and their white brothers have made sore havoc among the creatures of the woods, in the past, enough remain to employ the hunter for generations to come. In one respect, however, an unbridled license to kill in former years, has had its effect The moose, king of the North American forests, was once to be found in every part of the country. It retreated gradually before the advance of civilization, but less than a genera tion ago vast herds of these creatures were to be found in the Metapedia valley, where they were an easy prey to the pelt hunters. Pursued in season and out of season, run down by all means fair and foul, they were still abun- dant when the British troops came to Canada at the time of the " Trent affair," in the latter part of the winter of 1862. Mocassins were needed for the soldiers, and to procure them the Indiana sought the Metapedia and entered on the work of slaughter. Hundreds of the noble animals were slain, stripped of their hides and left to rot in the woods. For months afterwards the air was tainted with the odor. It is not strange that the moose forsook the valley. They are still to be found in more distant haunts, and under the game laws of recent years they can no longer be openly and needlessly slaughtered as of yore. For some years the shooting of the female moose was wholly prohibited in the Province of Quebec, and the close season now is from the first of February to the first of September. The same season applies to the hunting of deer. The caribou, game fit for any sportsman, are still to be found in large num- bers. The season for them in this province, extends from the first of Septem- ber to the first of March ; and they are to be found almost anywhere between St. Alexandre and Campbellton, within a short distance of the railway track. In some places this distance would be two, and in others ten miles. Skill, experience and good guides, are necessary to find them, but a sportsman who understands his business, and who goes to the right locality, need not be sur- prised if he bring down as many as twenty in a fortnight's hunt. To accomplish this, he must be prepared for his work and be ready to stand some fatigue. From Riviere du Loup he can set out in a variety of directions for grounds which are known to be good. One of these is in the direction of Teraiscouata Lake, 38 miles distant, and now reached either by highway or rail. Here is a sportsman's paradise, amid scenery of the most beautiful 2 i8 description, the forest abounding in game and the lakes and rivers teeming with fish. Here one may live for weeks, and never weary in his absence from the busy haunts of men. All the forest to the south of this part of the railway affords good shooting. The sportsman can take his choice of going a long or short distance. The back country of Maine can be easily readied from St. Alexandre, or one may go twenty miles from Riviere du Loup and find the St. Francis River, and follow it to the St. John. From Elgin Road, or L'islet, the head waters of the Rcstigouche and Miramichi may be reached. All these are in the midst of happy hunting grounds. Some of the best caribou hunting is to be had a- - the Shickshocks Mountains, in Gaspe. This is the land of the cariboL a the depths of the wilderness, amid mountains nearly 4,000 feet high, and surrounded by scenery of the most wild and rugged character, is an abundance of rare sport. This has been one of the resorts of Lord Dunraven, who has, indeed, hunted in all parts of the country, meeting with excellent success. On one expedition he started as many as forty-one caribou in three days. Of these he and his party killed fifteen. H. R. H. Prince Arthur, during his visit, in 1869, engaged in a successful hunting expedition in these forests. They have also been visited by Count Turenne and other well known sportsman. Other game may be had for the seeking. Bears sometimes make their appearance when least looked for and often create lively episodes in the sports- man's journey. They can be found almost anywhere outside of the settle- ments, and when blueberries are in season every big^ ren has a bear for a visitor. Partridges nre very numerous. When a weak or lazy man goes after them he has to take some one with him to carry the load home. So plentiful are they near Riviere du Loup, that Wm. Fraser, Esq., the present Seigneur, shot as many as fifty-four in one day, killing fourteen ot them without moving out of his tracks. To him who has carried a gun mile after mile for a whole day and been proud to exhibit one unfortunate bird as his trophy, this may appear like a tough story. Nevertheless it is true. The man who goes after par- tridges in this vicinity does not have to sneak home by a back road to avoid the chaff of his neighbors for his bad luck. He stalks along with pride in his face and a load on his back, and is only vexed that the spectacle is too com- mon to excite wonder. Around the shores, geese, brant and ducks of all kinds are found in immense tlocks, the soft fresh water grass, so abundant along the rivers, furnishing an abundance of the food in which they delight. The black and grey duck, the curlew, the golden plover, and the English snipe, are v-ry abundant during the months of September and October. Isle Verte and Kamouraska are favorite resorts for these birds, but there are many other places along these shores where hundreds may be shot with ease. Much that has been said in regard to the hunting in this vicinity will apply «9 „ IS n le g re 56 to the country along the next two or three hundred miles, or until long after the boundary of New Brunswick has been passed. Rivit^re du Loup has been singled out as a sample of what very many places arc like as regards their surroundings, and to avoid a reiteration of facts in connection with other points. So it is in regard to the fishing, which is of more immediate interest to the summer tourist. The enthusiastic hunter regards not the weather, and is willing to endure the cold and wet in his queai for game, but fish are to be had when nature is at her loveliest in this glorious summer laud. This is a country offish, and such fish I One who is not a fisherman may eat ihem at every meal on his journey. He may have halibut, salmon, herring, and smelt, from the St, Lawrence, and salmon, tuladi, sea, brook and lake trout from the waters that are tributary to it. Salmon are found in nearly all the rivers, and the majority of the streams are leased by the Government to individuals. It is not difficult, however, for a stranger to obtain permission to fish. Trout are found in all the rivers and lakes and are free to all comers. The usual size of those in the lakes is from five to six pounds ; in the rivers they run from three to four pounds. All the trout of this region are very "gamey," and afford abundant sport. In the lakes is also found the tuladi, which seems identical with the togue of Northern Maine and New Brunswick. Speci- mens have been caught weighing as much as forty pounds each, or as largo as a good sized salmon. The average weight of them in Temiscouata Lake is 27 pounds. The tuladi has been confounded with th€ lake salmon of Switzer- land, and with others of the salmon family of Europe, but it does not appear to be identical with any of them. It is usually very fat, and very reserved — ot to say lazy. It lurks and lies in the deep waters of the large lakes, as if g. »n to coi 'emplation rather than the gratification of appetite. For all that, it 1., i voracious creature and has a sly way of approaching the surface in the cool hours of the morning and evening. It does not rise to the fly, as a rule, but may be taken by trolling. It is good eating, though less delicate than either the trout or the salmon. Nearly all the lakes are free to fishers, for all kinds of fish. CANOE AND PADDLE. The Intercolonial has one feature which few, if any, railways possess to the same extent. For a distance of several hundred miles it is intersected by rivers easily navigable for small boats or canoes. By these natural highways one may pursue his journey far into the interior, make a short portage from the head- waters of one to those of another and descend the latter to the lines of railway in New Brunswick. A glance at the map will show what ample opportunities there are for this kind of recreation. Leaving the railway and ascending one river, coming down another and up another, spending days among the lakes, fishing, shooting, enjoying life to the utmost, one is as much in the wilderness as if thousands of miles away. Yet all this time he 20 knows that, if necessary, a few hours will bring him to the railway, the mail and the telegraph — to communication with the busy world. He may leave the railway on the shores of the St. Lawrence and make z canoe voyage to the Baie des Chaleurs or the Bay of Fundy. When he arrives at his destin- ation he will find his luggage and his letters awaiting him. The route may be varied and the voyage prolonged as may suit the voyageur's taste. Notably good fishing may be had at Lakes St, Francis and Temiscouata and on the Toledi S.iver ; but on such a trip one can fish and hunt everywhere as he goes. In the Temiscouata region alone one may make a canoe voyage for at least eighty miles, and if he chooses can, by portaging, descend the great Miramichi to the ocean. Portages can be made so as to reach any of the three great rivers of New Brunswick, the Miramichi, Restigoucbe, or St. John. The whole country is open to any man who can sit in a canoe and ply a paddle. CACOUNA. Six miles below Riviere du Loup is Cacouna station. The name has a musical sound, but as seen from the cars there is little to attract the eye. The Ccouna of which the pleasure seeker is in search is three miles distant, and is reached by an easy drive over the smooth highway that descends to the shore. Then the great watering place of the Lower St. Lawrence invites the stranger to tarry and take his rest. " Shall I not take mine ease in mine inn ? " he asks, and truly he may, for here is an hotel conducted by men who have made a study of the tourist's wants, and who are prepared to supply not only the comforts, but the luxuries of modern life. It is the St. Lawrence Hall, with am.ple accommodation for 400 people and a capacity for half as many more should occasion ru ^uire. It is the resort of the best classes of visitors, and its increasing popularity may be inferred from the fact that the business of last season was the largest done for years. This is not a puff ; it is the truwh. The inspiration of those who have termed Cacouna ** the Saratoga ot Canada " is not a happy one. Saratoga has no salt water, no panorama like that of the Lower St. Lawrence; no fishing, shooting and bathing, and no cool and invigorating breezes such as prevail here in the hot days of summer. Cacouna, on Ihe other hand, has no mixed mob of people whose chief passport to recognition is the J>ecunia vulgaris of commerce, no sharpers who live by fleecing their fellows, no exorbitant charges and no army of tip- seeking menials who look upon the traveller as their prey. Thus it will be seen that all comparison between the two places fails. Cacouna has an in- dividuality, and can stand on its own merits. These are not a few. While the pioneer of the watering places on this shore, it was for a long time the resort of only a favorite few who knew of its beauties. Years ago, before the railway v»as built, they came by steamer from Quebec and other cities, were taken ashore by carts through the shallow water and had to put •aMHUMnodi-'-- ' 6 21 up with such accommodation as they could get. The first hotel, a one storey building of the old time style, is still to be seen. There were, however, some who had their summer cottages, 2nd one of these was Mr. Haley, of Mont- real, who continues to come each season to the house he occupied forty-five years ago. Of late years wealthy Canadians have expended large sums in the erection of cottages and the beautifying of grounds. Some of these, such as that of Hon. John Ross, of Quebec, represent expenditures of from $25,000 to $30,000, while a number of others cost $i 0,000 and upwards. People like the place because it is as healthy as it is attractive. The natural drainage is perfect, and an abundance of living springs supply pure water. Some years ago, Drs. Campbell and Howard, of Montreal, sought for a watering place which they could recommend to their patients, and having analyzed the water, gave Cacouna a trial. The effect was so marked that the doctors lost no time in taking their own prescription, and numbering themselves among the dwellers on the shore. With the mountains on one side and an arm of the sea on the other the air is very pure. It is so clear that one can scarcely believe the opposite shore is twenty-one miles away, but it is fully that in a straight line to the mouth of the Saguenay. So near do the distant hills seem that one might feel tempted to start for them with nothing more than a boat and pair of oars. In all of this part of Canada, while winter comes early and lingers late, nature maintains a balance by the quickening power of the summer. Every- thing that is planted has a rapid and vigorous growth. This is noticeable at Cacouna, in instances where ornamental trees have been set out. English willows have been known to grow at the rate of two, and even three feet a year, and that iu spite of the rocks among which they were planted. Peter Donnegan is responsible for the statement that such trees, planted by him on the grounds of Mr. Robert Hamilton, of Quebec, increased in seven years from a height of eighteen inches to that of more than twenty-five feet. Peter Donnegan is an authority on all that relates to Cacouna. He has seen it grow and has helped to make it beautiful. " I put flowers in the place of thistles," is his boast, and he tells how great holes, eight feet deep and nine in diameter, were made in the rocks, that he might plant the trees which cast a gratef'rl shade to-day. When he drove the carriage of the Princess Louise from Riviere du Loup station to the wharf, she employed the time by talking with him of the trees and wild flowers, and he was at no loss for words to enlarge upon his favorite theme. The name Cacouna has a sound suggestive of the waves and the shore, but it has no such meaning. It signifies "the place where many Indians are buried." One would think that there should be a legend connected with this, but it is peculiarly aggravating to find that no one, not even the oracular Don- negan, has any idea of the origin of the name. No ancient Indian graves have ever been found here. The only place of burial which has any story 11^ 32 attached to it is on Cacouna Island, where the wild flowers grow undisturbed on the graves of fifteen shipwrecked sailors. The St. Lawrence Hall is close to the shore, and overlooks a stretch of beach a mile long, where may be enjoyed the bathing which has given the village its fame. This big caravansary is the evolution of what was originally known as Kelly's Hotel, with indifferent accommodation for about forty people. Its position is well chosen, and in the height of the season it is a busy place indeed. So is the position of the village, on the shore of a graceful bay, with a smooth beach of grey sand which stretches for a mile. All along are tasteful private residences for summer use, while numerous other houses give accom- modation to boarders. Many of the farmers own two houses, one of which J f- ST. LAWRENCE HALL, CACOUNA. they occupy, while the other is leased for the season. In this way some of them derive an income sufficient to support them in the lonely winter, when the stranger has gone, and the natives sit alongside of two-storey stoves and dream of the coming summer. Good trout fishing is found in this vicinity. Trout Brook is the nearest point, three miles distant, but still better results can be obtained by a drive to the lakes, fifteen miles away, and which are reached by a good road. The rates at St. Lawrence Hall are $2 a day and $10.50 a week and upwards. The Mansion House, another hotel, has accommodation for 150, and its rates are $1.50 a day and from $7 to $8 a week. Two miles from Cacouna is St. Arsene, the most convenient point from which to reach Lake St. Hebert, twelve miles distant. In this lake are plenty of speckled trout, with an average weight of from half a pound to one and a 't a 23 half pounds, and which have a high reputation on account of their excellent flavor. Trois Pistoles is one of the places where the through traveller refreshes himself with an appetizing meal at the railway dining room. The village is prettily situated, and there is good lake and river fishing in the vicinity. Lake St. Simon, eighteen miles from here, is a beautiful sheet of water, and merits special mention. The origin of the name of Trois Pistoles is more obscure than even that of Cacouna. It may have been derived from the circumstance that the first settler gave three pistoles for a piece of land, from somebody losing or finding that sum, or from a trade with the Indians in which that amount changed hands. The antiquarian can choose the tradition that seems most reasonable. There is no good authority for any of them. BIC ! BEAUTIFUL BIC ! A village on the low land by the shore, with mountains separating it from the country beyond, confronted the engineers when they sought to locate the line of the Intercolonial at a point fifty-five miles below P iviere du Loup. It was Bic, then as now well termed the Beautiful. To-day the railway winds around the mountain, one hundred and fifty feet above the post road, passing places where the rock was blasted to a depth of eighty feet that a bed might be made for the track. On the one side the steep declivity rises to a height of two hundred and fifty feet above the passing train ; on the other is a pan- orama of bay, river and islets, which seem as the environment of an enchanted summer land. From this height is seen the St. Lawrence, twenty-five miles from shore to shore, and rapidly widening in its journey until it merges with the world of waters. It was from these heights, on a fair day in June, long years ago, that anxious eyes watched a fleet of war-ships making its way up the St. Lawrence. Nearer it came until the watchers could discern that it carried the flag of France. There was joy in every heart. The long expected succor had arrived from beyond the ~ea, and swift messengers made ready to carry the glad tidings to Quebec. Suddenly, as they looked, the ensign of the leading ves- sel was run down and the red cross of England fluttered in the breeze. Having come thus fur, stratagem was no longer needed. That vessel was the Richmond frigate, carrying General James Wolfe, and, with him, was an army, equipped for the conquest of Canada. The fleet cast anchor within sight of Bic Island. Among the watchers on the heights, was a priest, whose nerves had been strung to the utmost tension with joy at the sight of his country's flag. When the dread truth was so suddenly revealed to him, nature could bear no more, and he fell to the earth — dead ! Bic is one of the finest natural watering places on the Lower St. Law- rence. The mountains are around it, and it nestles at their feet amid a wealth of beautiful scenery. There is more than a mere stretch of shore. There is a harbor in which an ocean steamer may ride, a haven wherein vessels may 24 hide from the wrath of the storm-king. Romantic isles He amid the waters, and crags of rugged beauty rear their heads around the bay. Pleasant beaches tempt the bather ; placid waters invite the boatman ; and beauty everywhere summons the idler from hi<; resting place to drive or ramble in its midst. The haibor is charming tojone who first beholds it and "time but the impression deeper makes." It never becomes monotonous, and each day one may find something new to admire among its inviting nooks. Had it not been for the fleet that lay at anchor beyond the island on that midsummer day in 1759, Bic might have been a fortified town and its harbor a naval station. Such was one of the projects of France, and the harbor would have been a safe and convenient rendezvous for the fleets in these waters, for Bic is accessible at seasons when the ice bars the passage to Quebec. It was here, in the bitterly cold winter weather of 1862, that Eng- land landed men and munitions of war for the defence of Canada. It does not seem, however, that Bic should have anything to do with war. Everything is suggestive of pleasure and peace. Strangers are not numerous, but lovers of beauty and seekers after rest have located summer residences in the village, and year by year enjoy the cooling breezes. Fishing is in abundance ; and if there were no fish, the streams winding their way among the hills, through all kinds of picturesque dells, would well repay full many a toilsome tramp. One of the islands near at hand is known as L'llet au Massacre, and associated with it is a tragic story of Indian war. The tale is an old one, Donnacona told it to Jacques Cartier, and it has appeared in a great variety of forms ever since. Briefly stated, the tradition is that a band of Micmacs, consisting of about two hundred men, women and children, heard of the ap- proach of a large party of hostile Iroquois, and fled for concealment to the large cave which is to be seen on this island. The Iroquois discovered the place of retreat, and finding themselves unable to dislodge their hidden foes by ordinary means, resorted to a thoroughly savage expedient. Heaping dry wood in and around the mouth of the cave, they advanced behind shields of boughs, carrying torches of bark, and ignited the pile. The Micmacs were forced to leap through the flames, and as fast as tl ey appeared were slaughtered. All who were in the cave were killed, and their bones lay bleaching on the island for many a year thereafter. They were swiftly and terribly avenged. Mr. Tache, in his Trois Ligendes de Mon Pays, says that five of the Micmacs were sent from the island at the first alarm, a part to demand assistance from the friendly Malicites at Madawaska, and the others to act as scouts. Twenty-five Malicite warriors responded to the summons, but too late to pre- vent the iiiassacre. They then, aided by their five allies, secretly followed the track of the Iroquois, and unseen themselves, dealt death among the party as it proceeded. The scouts had previously removed the canoes and provisions which the Iroquois had left in the woods, and so they marched, dying by the hand of an unseen foe and threatened with famine ere they could reach their own country. At length they reached the open woods, near Trois Pistoles ^. ' ■W \ 'il * 1 *5 River, feeble and discouraged. The band had shrunk to twenty-seven men. Finding traces of moose they began to hunt, and were led into an ambush by the foe, who bur?*^ upon them and killed all but six. These were made prisoners ; one was tortured by the allies in the presence of the other five. The latter were then divided, and tht; Malicites carried their three to Mada- waska. The Micmacs returned to Bic with their two, and tying them with their faces to the island, put them to death with their most ingenious torments. They then quitted Bic forever. Tradition has peopled the neighborhood with the ghosts of the slaughtered Micmacs, now dancing on the waters, now moaning among the crevices of the rocks, shrieking at times as with the agony of souls in pain. Hattee Bay is another delightful spot, not far from Bic. The scenery, though not so impressive as that of the latter place, is very attractive. One of the features is a natural terrace, and the facilities for all kinds of exercise and recreation are abundant. A number of English families reside at this place, and it has many admiring visitors during the summer season. RiMousKi AND THE Hermit. Many people know only of Rimouski as a place where the ocean steamers receive and land mails and passengers on the voyage to and from England. Anxious to depart or get home, they see little of the place beyond noting that it is a thriving town, and that the pier running out to deep water is of a most surprising length. It extends for nearly a mile, and is a most agreeable promenade in summer days, when a constant cool breeze is borne over the water. The village of St Germain de Rimouski, which is its full title, is a place where the law and Gospel flourish, because it is the shiretown of the county and the seat of the bishop of the diocese. The cathedral, bishop's palace, seminary, convents and other buildings devoted to religious uses, are imposing structures of stone, erected at a large cost. The clergy are seen at every turn, and the French language is heard in every house. Save at the hotels and some public offices, the thousands of English who have passed through Rimouski have done very little to leave the sound of their tongue or the impress of their journey. The Rimouski River is the first important salmon rivier below Quebec, and it is under lease. Strangers who are sportsman and genticinen, have, however, often been permitted to fish in its waters, which extend to a lake close to the boundary of New Baunswick, and from which only a short portage is necessary to reach the rivers Quatawamkedgwick (commonly known as the Tomkedgwick) and the Restigouche, by means of which a canoe can reach the Baie des Chaleurs. The salmon of the Rimouski are not of the largest size, averaging less than twenty pounds, but there are plenty of them, as well ^s an abundance of trout. The latter fish are easily to be had by those who go after them, for there are about fifty lakes, large and small, 26 within the county. At Seven Lakes, 25 miles from the village, three men have caught forty dozen trout in three days. As for shooting, the woods are ful' of all kinds of game, from the caribou to the partridge. The village offers many attractions to families who seek a quiet summer with all the enjoyments of the sea side. There are excellent facilities for salt- water fishing, boating and bathing, the shore being protected from roughness of water by the island of St, Barnabi, which lies a short distance off. This island, which has borne its name since early in the seventeenth century, is about two miles long, contains a small lake, is well wooded and is a favoiite lesoii /or picnics. It has its story, and a very touching one. There are several versions of it, but that given by Monseigneur Guay, in his Chronique de Himouski, is probably the most authentic. So far as can be gleaned from all sources, this is the story of the hermit : The fair land of Old France held no hearts more in unison than were those ofToussaint Cartier and his betrothed Louise when the new year of 1723 dawned. Just turned of manhood, handsome in person, versed in ki^owledge of books and agreeable in manners, he was the envy of the lads of his native village. He had long known the beautiful Louise, and they had learned to love each other with a love surpassing the power of words to tell. She was the daughter of a rich man of high degree, who had pledged her at an early age to the profligate son of his wealthy neighbor. Toussaint was poor, and his poverty became a crime in the sight of the lucre-loving father, but, as is ever the case, opposition served only to cement the stronger the affections of the devoted pair. They were secretly married and embarked for Quebec, to seek a home in the land of which so much had been told. The voyage was a prosperous one. The ship reached the St. Lawrence and lay becalmed off Rimouski. The day was fine and young Cartier took a boat to visit He St. Barnabe. While he was ashore a fearful tempest arose, and the vessel and all on board were engulfed before his eyes. The body of Louise was soon after washed ashore on the island, where Toussaint buried il and made a solemn vow to dwell there in solituae for the remainder of his days. This vow he faithfully observed, living a life of deep religious devotion, year after year, until his locks were silvered with age. All who knew him revered him, even the birds loved him and came to feed out of his hand ; but his heart was broken, and he watched year by year pass by, counting each as a step nearer to his reunion with the one of whose smile through life he had been so sadly deprived. Forty odd seasons passed, and at length one January morning he was found lying dead on the floor of his humble abode. The lovers were united at last. His remains were buried within the old church of Rimouski, and to this day his name is honored as that of an holy man. Six miles below Rimouski is Father Point, so well-known as a telegraph and signal station in connection with ocean steamers, and to it there is a charming drive along the shore. Four miles above the town is village of I ' li'— rnnKBt. k r I 23 Sacre Coeur, where there is a beautiful and well sheltered beach and admir- able opportunities for boating and sea bathing. Soon after leaving Rimouski the St. Lawrence is lost sight of, and the road makes its way toward the Metapedia Valley. Ste. Flavie, eighteen miles from Rimouski, is a place of some importance, and is the terminus of the well-known highway, the Kempt Road, built at a heavy expense and sj long used for a mail route between the upper and lower provinces. Here wa begin to take leave of the French pure and simple, and enter a countn where English is spoken to a greater extent. In the midst of the woods s Little Metis Station, not a place over which one could grow enthusiastic, but never- theless leading by a road of about six miles to the beautiful watering place of .4' Little metis. Three score and ten years ago the Seigneur of Metis was a Mr. McNider, whose name has such a genuine Caledonian ring that no one will imagine that he was a Frenchman. Warmly attached to the place, and fully impressed with its beauties, there was yet one defect which grieved his heart. Nature had neither located Metis in Scotland nor sent the ScQtch to Metis. This want he detennined to supply, and the result was the arrival of several hun- dred men, women, and children, from Old Scotia. These were located in several parts of the Seigneury, and aided by Mr. McNider until their farms became adequate to supply their wants. Since then they have prospered, and Metis is a flourishing fanning district. What is more to the purpc se of the tourist, it is one of the most pleasant places on the shore for those who are seeking to enjoy the summer months. Numbers have already found out its beauties, but there is room for many more. It is at Metis that Lord Mount Stephen, has his famous fishing lodge, the finest in Canada, at which the Duke and Duchess of Connaught were guests during their visit in 1890. The building is designed with every regard to comfort and a striking feature of its interior is the finish of polished woods brought from' the other extreme of the Dominion on the Pacific coast. Little Metis is situated on the shore of the St. Lawrence, at a point where the estuary l>egin8 to widen out so that the opposite shore is a faint line in the distance and much of the horizon is as level as upon the ocean. This gives the 'ace more of the air of a sea-side resort than many less favored watering places, and the salt waves rolling in upon the sandy beach confirm the impression. The beach is about four miles long, hard, smooth, and safe for bathers. On some parts of it the surf beats with a sullen roar ; yet num- erous covea, sheltered from the swell, afford every security, as well as absolute privacy, to the bather. Boats, of all sizes, from a skiff to a schooner, are available to the visitor, and if one desires to run across to the other shore he will find safe and swift vessels crossing every day. If a party desire to have a good time and feel free and independent, they can charter a small schooner for about $3 a day, secure a good sailing master, lay in a supply of pro- rt> •4 39 visions, and gowliere tliey please. Tlie St. I^wrence is between thirty and forty miles wide in this part, so there is plenty of room for excursionists at all times. On shore, in addition to the bathing, the attractions are abundant. First of all there are good hotels, and the visitor has his choice. Board is very reasonable, averaging about a dollar a day. If one prefer a private boarding house, he can find good accommodation for about five dollars a week. Be- sides this, nearly every farmer has a spare house which can be hired for about $60 for the season, including water and fuel. The weirs furnish a plentiful supply of fresh fish, while other provisions, including berries of all kinds and dairy products, are to be had in abundance. jr^jj^^ ^ number of re- ) sidents of Montreal and other JmS^^^^^^ i^ places have ^ villas here. FALLS OF THE GRAND AND PETIT METIS RIVERS. The Grand and Little Metis rivers are favorite haunts of the salmon, and trout are found v/herever there is a lake or brook. The best places to secure the latter fish are at Metis Lakes, the nearest of which is about three miles from the centre of the village. Further back is a chain of lakes,^all contain- ing plenty of large trout, and ail comparatively easy of access. 30 The country in the rear of Metis is a resort for herds of caribou. Geese, duck, and sea-fowl are found all along the shore, while partridge are met with in every part of the woods. The scenery is varied and attractive. One may drive for miles along the shore and enjoy the panorama and the sea breeze until weary. Inland, are beautiful vales with nooks and brooks and charming bits of landscape. All the farmers have waggons to hire, and drives may be had at a small expense. One of these is to the falls, seven miles away. Here a heavy body of water pours over the rocks with a grandeur which must be seen to be appreciated. Both Grand and Petit Metis rivers have waterfalls, situated amid most en- chanting scenes of the forest. Further along the shore is the Matane, a small river, but with an abun- dance of salmon and trout. It was by this river, so long ago as the time of Champlain, that the Indians of the Baie des Chaleurs reached the St. Law- rence, by way of the Restigouche and Metapedia rivers, making a portage from Metapedia Lake. Matane is in favor as a summer resort, and like Metis is accessible both by rail and steamer. There was fishing here before the tourist came with his rod and Hies, but it was purely commercial in its aspect. As long ago as 1688 Sieur Riverin established a fishery, and thrived until his wicked partner defrauded him. He found all the shore, for a distance of sixty miles, very abundant in codfish, while whales were common every- where from Matane to Cap de Rosiers, a distance of nearly of 250 miles. So plenty were they near Matane that at one period, for the space of three months, as many as fifty would be seen on the surface at one lime, within less than two miles from the shore. So tame were they that men could approach near enough to hit them with oars. Sieur Riverin, filled with visions of wealth, formed a company to prosecute whaling, and succeeded in getting swindled. Leaving the St. Lawrence, the course of the traveller is south to the Metapedia Valley, Passing Tartague the railway, which has kept clear of the mountain ranges by following the shore for two hundred miles, makes a bold push and crosses the hills at Malfait Lake. Here the traveller is nearly 750 feet above the sea, higher than he has been since he left Quebec, and higher than he can be on any other part of the line. Down the grade the cars go, until again on the level in the midst of a beautiful valley, where the hills rise on each side six and eight hundred teet for a distance of many miles. The French villages are no longer seen ; the French names are no longer heard. In the place of the latter come the titles bestowed by the Indians who once peopled the land. Some of these words are musical, after you get used to them. No doubt they were musical Jto Algonquin ears when uttered by Algonquin tongues ; but the true pronunciation of many of them is lostj and as the Indians had no written language Jthere is no rule as to how they should be spelled. Some of them are believed ] to have had poetical meanings, but there is a good deal more fancy than fact in many of the in; itti 3X J terpretations. It is just as well, however, to attach some poetry to them, for thus they are in harmony with the surroundings. The Metapedia really should be the poet's paradise. It is supposed to have been somewhere in this vicinity that the first and last of the Aboriginal Spring Poets ventured to warble. His effusion is believed to have consisted of a hundred and sixteen stanzas. He desired his chief's opinion as to their fitness for publication. The criticism was promptly given, for, when the poet had reached the end of the fifth stanza, he was gagged, trie/I and condemned to the stake, as a warning to spring poets for all time. I'he summary judgment had its effect on succeeding generations, and the Indian of to-day, even though warmed with Sabian wine, or North Shore gin, is rarely prone to drop nto poetry. Tradition says that the verses, as recited, were : ODE TO SPRING. Hail, Metapediac ! Upon thy shore The Souriquois may sweet seclusion seek ; Cidaraqui distracts his thoughts no more, Nor seeks he gold from Souleamuagadeek. Hail, Keshpugowitk, calm Causapscal, Tartague, Tobegote and Sayabec, Amqui Wa|,ansis, Peske-Ammik — all The scenes which Nature doth with glory deck. At Assametquaghan and at Upsalquitch The busy beaver builds his little dam ; His sisters, cousins and bis aunts grow rich At Patapediac and Obstchquasqiiam. I've wandered by the Qua-ta-wam-kedg-wick, The Madawaska and the famed Loostook, The Temiscouata, Kamouraska, Bio ; I've climbed the hill of Villidadamook. And everywhere do thoughts of spring arise, Skudakumoochwakaddy speaks to Restigouche. Hail, brother Mareschites and Abnakies ! Hail, balmy mouth of Amuss.^'ikizoos ! Gachepe, Kigicapigiok, Tracadfequash — The exultant poet had not observed the gathering cloud on the chiefs swarthy brow, and the hills echoed with his loud accentuation of the ante- penultimate. An instant later he was rudely seized, and Skudakumooch- wakaddy, the Spirit Land, received him ere the set of sun. This was the first and last appearance of the spring poet among the Red Men. 3« METAPEDIAC LAKE AND VALLEY. Beyond Sayabec lies Lake Metapediac. It is the noblest sheet of inland water seen along the route. All lakes have a beauty which appeals to the imaginative mind, but this, enshrined among the mountains, must impress the most prosaic nature. About sixteen miles in length, and stretching out in parts to the width of five miles, its ample area gives it a dignity with which to wear its beauty. Embosomed on its tranquil waters lie isles rich in verdure, among which the canoe may glide amid scenes that wake the artist's soul to ecstacy. The shores are a fitting frame to so fair a picture. Here, too, will the sportsman never ply his craft in vain. These clear waters are the home of the salmon, and kings among the fishes await the angler's pleasure. The outlet of the lake is the famed Metapediac River. It is usually spelled without the final " c," and some use an " a " instead of the first " e." It is a matter of taste, but it is highly probable no one of the three is like the true Indian word. Cascapediac, for instance, is a corruption of Kigicapigiac, and probably the original of Metapediac is something even worse. It is well not to be too particular, for this corruption of the native dialect is generally an improvement, so far as relates to the ease of pronounciation by the tongues of white men. The name is said to denote Musical Waters, and the title is well deserved. Through the green valley it winds in graceful curves, singing the music of the waters as it runs. In thirty miles of its course it has 222 rapids, great jirid small, now swift and deep, now gently rippling over beds of sihining gravel and golden sand. Here and there are the deeper pools in which lurk salmon of astounding size, for this is one of the salmon streams of which every fisherman has heard. For mile after mile the traveller watches the course of the river, so strangely pent in by the mountains on either hand, rising in every shape which mountains can assume. Some are almost perfect cones ; others rise swiftly into precipices ; and others have such gentle slopes that one feels that he would like to stroll leisurely upward to the summit, but the height, as <* r'jle, is from six hundred to eight hundred feet. In some places in the Metapediac the river, the highway, and the r. H' iy, crowd each other for a passage, so narrow is the valley. All kin'^ of foliage, and all shades of Nature's colors are upon the hillside*^ >d in the autumn, when the grand transformation of hues takes a* e. description. Grassy banks make e.i -« fish dart from the pools to seize h; the charms of retirement can be f<'H» n a i>^ ^m lives in miniature amid the mountanib .vhile F gland and Scotland are around the lakes, streams and springy heather. For year after year this glorious count v was far reu :ved fr 1 the path of travellers, save those whose necessities obliged them to ti;; ' the mili- tary road to Ste. Flavie. The building of the railway has oj a it to the ■nagnificent beyond igler, as the lordly v'erywhere ; here all aradise. Switzerland world, and thousands are now familiar with it where hundreds had heard of it in other years. It is a country which has attractions for all. Those who seek the beautiful in Nature may here find it, while those who are disciplei of Nimrod or Walton will find the days only too short, and the weeks passing away all too swiftly. GUN AND ROD IN THE METAPEDIAC. Some moose are still to be traced in the vicinity of the Metapediac valley, out if one seeks for them he will do better by penetrating the wilds of the Gdspd peninsula. Caribou, however, are still to be found in abundance in all parts of the country, and the trapper will be at no loss to find the haunts of the beaver and many other fur-bearing animals. Partridge are to be had very- wehere, close to the line of railway, and very often can be shot without leaving the track. The Metapediac owes its chief fame to the salmon fishing, which is found everywhere for at least forty miles along the course of the stream, to say nothing of the other rivers by which it is joined. One of these is the Causapscal, and some rare fishing is enjoyed at the forks, where the Princess Louise once landed a forty-pound salmon. Further up, the Causapscal is rather rough along its banks, and merits its name, which means, in the English tongue, the Rocky River. The Metapediac and its tributaries are not suffering for lack of apprecia* tion. The fishing rights are largely owned by wealthy Americans, who spend their time and money without stint in the enjoyment of thei alluring sport. The Restigouche Salmon Club, composed chiefly of promment citizens of New Vork, has a splendid club house at ^'.e junction of the Metapediac and Restigouche rivers. The best fishing in this vicinity is from the middle of June to the middle of July. Trout may be caught with ease all through the season, not only in the rivers but at such places as Amqui and Trout lakes. The Metapediac trout are as large as some fish which pass for salmon in other countries. Where forty and fifty pound salmon exists seven \iov \d trout are only in pro- portion, as they should be. At Assametquaghan (a place more beautiful than its name), at McKinnon Brook, and at Mill Stream, will be found particu- larly good fishing. A party of two men has gone out of an afternoon and remained until noon the next day, securing nearly 250 pounds of troui, each one averaging four pounds in weight, but many running as high as seven pounds. The last of the Metapediac is seen at the village which bears the name of the river, at the junction with the Restigouche. It is a place of singular beauty, and ihe eye lingers lovingly pn fi.e beautiful panorama as it passes fr'^m the view and the train rushes oiv