s.% & % % <^Jd>k^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 IIM 12.5 iU IIIII2.2 I.I IIM I! 4 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 16 6" ► "/} ^ /a 'e. e- ^^ ■' % V"' y 7 %^^^ Photographic Sciences Corporation ,\ 4^ ^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent §tre film6s d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 A partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nicessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 c AVi/t7i MA P •f th« ©ITYoFtUEBEe F^tUet-ed ace to act cf IhNUtnient in the yeuv One thotiaanii eight hundred £ eighty eight by C.&\Jfoiiivell,4^uebe^,in the offUe oftheMt tffe tc,in the of/ica oftheMinistet'ofAgriciiltixi'cfittama.. l*w— I .# I r HOLIWELL'S NEW GUIDE TO THE CITY OF QUEBEC AND ENVIRONS WITH MAP OF THE CITY By Thos. J. Oliver — 6th EDITION — PUBLISHED BY C. E. HOLIWELL, Army Stationer. Opposite Post Office, Quebec. 1888 | -^^i i iii ii ini i » iiii iir i II niiiwi i i ii iiiiif i n i j |i| H a w i w"'ffrii»i'iin>fiii . % .1,1... mvw rngf-mmmtmrnmrnim s Cc St Tr Me St Mc Li L'] W( Th Ch , Th Th ■ St Ch Yo Sel Ch Le Th Th Sk De Th La i INDEX ^ History The Terrace Castle of St Louis The EnKlish Cathedral The Woll'e and Montcalm monuments Place d'Armes Union Building La Maison du Chien d'Or The Market Square The Basilica *. The Seminary end Chapel Laval University The Battery St John Gate The Esplanade The Garrison Club Richard Montgomery Thb Citadel St. Louis Street The Ursuline Convent , The Hotel Dieu Congregational Church St Patrick's Church Trinity Chapel Methodist Church St Andrew's Church Morrin College , Literary & Historical Society L'InstitutCanadien Women's Christian Association , The High School , Chalmer's Church The Baptist Church.. The French Protestant Church St Matthew's Chapel(Episcopal) Church and Convent of Grey Sisters Young Men's Christian Association Seffrejr Hale Hospital Christian Brother's School Le Bon Pasteur and other religious establishments. The Marine Hospital The General Hospital Skating Rink Departmental Buildings The Drill Shed Lacrosse Grounds, The Page 1 8 10 11 12 13 13 • 14 16 17 10 19 21 22 23 24 24 25 27 29 32 33 33 33 34 34 34 34 35 35 35 35 36 3.> 36 37 37 37 38 38 39 39 40 40 41 41 ■hh ii Page The Observatory 41 Quebec Goal 42 The Harbor 42 TheCustom House 42 Graud Trunk and other Railway Stations 42 The Gates 43 The Environs 44 Beauport Asylum 44 The Falls of Montmorency 46 The Natural Steps 47 L'Ange Gardien 48 Chateau Richer 4H $hrine and Falls of St. Anne 49 Island of Orleans 51 Charlesbourg 61 Chateau Bigot 52 Lake Beauport 66 Lorette 56 Lake St. Charles 68 Lake Calvaire 58 The Grande A116e and St. Foy Roads and Plains of Abraham 59 Spencer Wood 60 Woodfield Cemetery 60 Mount Hermon Cemetery 60 Point Levis / 63 The Chaudi^reFfills 84 Les Eboulements 65 The River Jacques-Carlier 65 The Shawenegan Falls 65 Lake St. John Railway 67 St. Leon Springs 67 Quebec Cemtrai Railway .'.... 67 Metapedia Valley 67 Tadousac , 68 River Saguenay 68 Murray Bay 69 Riviere Quelle 69 Kamouraska 70 Riviere du Loup 70 Cacouna 70 Trois Pistoles 71 Rimouski 71 Metis 71 Fishing 72 Government Departments 73 Banks 74 The Courts 76 Consulates 76 Table of Distances, from Quebec 76 Tariffor Carters 77 Winter Scenes , 80 HISTORY In 1634, Canada was discovered by Jacques Cartier, of Saint-Malo, in France. The name iti derived from " kanata," an Indian word signi- fying "a collection of huts." In 1536, Jacques Cartier made a second voyage an:: becam3 friendly with Donnacona, the chief of Stadacona, where Quebec now stands. Stadp ma is A];^on- quin, alid Tiontirili is Huron, both meaning " the narrowing of the river." The Sajrt- Lawrence is 1> bs than a mile wide opposite the city. Jacques Cartier wintered on the river Saint-Char] ps, called by him Sainte-Croix. His head-quarters were at the mouth of the little stream " Lairet, " near the present residence of Mr. Parke, Eing- field, running into the Saint-Charles, near which, even at this day, can be seen the remains of the fortifications then erected by him. In 1541, Jacques Cartier made a third voyage, and built a fort at Cap-Eouge, the remains of which may yet be seen, and also visited Hochelaga, now Montreal. In 1608, Champlain arrived at Stada- cona, and, landing his followers, founded the city of Quebec. No satisfactory explanation can be given of the meaning of the word. The city has been besieged five different times. In 1629, Champlain was obliged to deliver up the , I — 2 — city, himself and followers to Sir David Kirke ; but, by the treaty of Saint-Germain en Laye, Canada was restored to France, and Champlain returned as the governor of the colony. In October, 1690, Sir "William Phipps appeared before the city and demanded its surrender, which the proud Count de Front enac haughtily refused. After a harmless bombardment the English fleet retired. In 1*711, another English fleet, under Sir Hoveden "Walker sailed for Que- bec, but was almost wholly destroyed by a storm in the gulf of Saint-Lawrence. For the last two deliverances the little church in the Lower Town was named Notre-Dame des Victoires. On the 2Cth June, 1769, Admiral Saunders anchored his fleet and transports, with Greneral "Wolfe and the English army on board,' off the Island of Orleans, then called Isle de Bacchus. The troops landed on the Island on the following day, near the church of Saint-Laurent and mar- ched up to the west end, from which they had a view of Quebec, while the French army^ under the Marquis de Montcalm, consisting of about 13,000 men, was encamped on the oppo- site shore of Beauport. G-eneral Monckton with four battalions, occupied the heights of Levis, from which place he bombarded the city and laid it in ruins. General "Wolfe then crossed to the mainland to the east of the Eiver Montmorency, and on 31st July attacked the French, and was defeated with the loss of 182 killed, 650 wounded and 16 missing. After some delay, caused by the illness of General Wolfe, the English fleet sailed up past the city, and, on the morning of the 13th September, 3 — Lvid Kirke ; L en Laye, Champlain colony. In I appeared surrender, haughtily dment the ler English led for Que- oyed by a For the last . the Lower ctoires. i Saunders th General ird,' off the [e Bacchus, e following it and mar- 3h they had inch army» nsisting of I the oppo- ckton with 5 of Levis, e city and ten crossed the Eiver tacked the be loss of 3sing. After of &eneral st the city, September, "Wolfe landed his troops at a place below Sillery, now called "Wolfe's Cove, and scaled the heights dislodging a French guard at the top of the hill, and forming line of battle on the Plains of Abraham, opposite the city, much to the aston- ishment of Montcalm, who had been encamped at Beauport since the defeat of the British on, the 31st July, daily expecting another attack. He hastened from there with his army by the bridge of boats across the mouth of the Kiver St. Charles, and at ten o'clock both armies were engaged in conflict, which, in a short, time ended in the defeat of Montcalm, who was wounded and carried into the citv. "Wolfe died on the field victorious, and the spot is now marked by a monument erected to his memory. Montcalm, it is supposed, died and was buried in the Ursu- line Convent. The French army retreated towards Beauport and afterwards to Cap-Eouge, and on the 18th September, the city of Quebec was surrendered to the English, and G-eneral Murray remained as governor, with a garrison force of 6,000 men. The fleet, with "Wolfe's body on board, sailed for England in October. On thb 28th April, in the following year, the French army of about ten thousand men, under De Levis, appeared on the Plains of Abraham and was met by the English, under General Murray, whose force consisted of about three thousand" men ; sickness and death having thus greatly reduced their numbers. The English were obliged to retire behind the fortifications of the city, but, on the 15th May, an English fleet, under Commodore Saunders, arrived with men and reinforcements, when the French Army ■Ml — 4 retreated and Canada became an English colony. In 1*7*75, Quebec was again threatened. Grene- ral Arnold, with a small army of Americans, arrived on the heights of Levis by the Chaudiere valley, and, on the 14th November, landed his - forces at Wolfe's Cove, from which they occu- pied Saint e-Foy and Saint-Eoch. Greneral Montgo- mery arrived on the 1st December and took command. The garrison of Quebec, under Col« Maclean, consisted of about eighteen hundred men. The governor, G-uy Carleton, under the guidance of Mr. Bouchette, the father of the late Joseph Bouchette, in his lifetime Deputy Sur- veyor-Greneral of the Province of Quebec, hastened down from Montreal to do his utmost to place the city in safety. Arnold occupied a house on the south side of the St-Charles river, to the east of Scott's bridge, while Montgomery established himself in Holland House, on the St- Foy road. The American troops were quartered in the suburbs of the city and even in the Intendant's Palace, at the foot of Palace Hill, which was soon reduced to ruins by the fire from the city. On the 31st December, Montgomery advanced, with seven hundred men, along Champlain street, and came upon a barrier at which was a guard. At the approach of the Americans a cannon was 'fired with deadly effect, killing Montgomery, his i\^o aides and others, causing the immediate dis- persion of the enemy. Arnold, at the same time, advanced from St Roch, along St. Charles street, expecting to meet Montgomery at the foot of Mountain Hill, and make a combined assault. Arnold occupied the houses on Sault-au-Matelot — 5 ish colony, ned. Grene- Americans, Chaudiere landed his they occu- •al Montgo- and took under Col« 1 hundred under the of the late eputy Sur- F Quebec, his utmost occupied a laries river, 'ontgomery , on the St- e quartered ^en in the *alace Hill, )y the fire ' advanced, plain street, as a guard. ;annon was jomery, his aediate dis- same time, arles street, ;he foot of ed assault. -au-Matelot street, but was ejected from there by a volunteer oflBicer Mons. Dambourges. Arnold was wounded and taken to the G-eneral Hospital. The American loss in killed and wounded was about a hundred ; four hundred and twenty-six rank and file sur- rendered, and were placed under guard in the Seminary. The remainder continued to occupy St. Eoch till the 6th May, when reinforcements arrived from England and the siege was raised. Montgomery's body was taken to a house on St. Louis street, now an Indian curiosity shop (having an inscription painted thereon, comme- morating the incident), and afterwards buried at the foot of the Citadel Hill, from which it was subsequently taken and buried in New York. In 1837, Quebec was in a state of excitement, caused by the rebellion of that year. The militia were called out and the city placed under milit- ary rule, but nothing of consequence occurred. One night, however, was heard a loud ringing of bells, and it was said that the rebels had risen and would sack the place. The cause of all this alarm was, nevertheless, very simple, — the singe- ing of a pig in the Hotel Dieu Nunnery yard. In the following year, Messrs. Teller and Dodge, two American rebel sympathizers, who were im- prisoned with three others in the Citadel, very cleverly effected their escape. Four of them let themselves down from the fiaestaff bastion, and Teller and l)odge siicceedeed in passing througii the city gat^s and afterv/ards reached the United lii i!832*ar.d ""SS^, Quetec was visited by tifiit dreadful scourge, Asiatic cholera. In the ialter ^yfet^r, the Castle St. Louis was destyoyfed by fire. — « — Ir Oa the 28th of May, 1845, the whole of St. Eoch was also burnt down, and on the 28th June, in the same year, nearly the greater part of the St. John and St. Louis suburbs suffered a similar fate. By these two fires over $2,000,000 worth of property was destroyed, towards covering which. $400,000 were subscribed, in Canada, England jiad the United States, and $500,000 were received from insurance. St Eoch, St. Sauveur and Cham- plain wards have, at several times, been almost wholly swept by conflagrations. In 1881, the greater part of Montcalm and St. John's wards was destroyed by fire, including St. John's church and presbytery. In 1846, in the month of June, the theatre, for- merly the Eiding School attached to the Castle of St. Louis, and what is now called the Durham Terrace, was destroyed by fire during a perfor- mance, when the building was crowded, and forty- five persons lost their lives. Quebec has often been the prey ot extensive conflagrations. In 1853, the Parliament Houses were burnt down, when a large library and mu- seum were lost. The sittings of the House were then transferred to the church of the G-rey Nuns near G-allows' Hill, which had not then been consecrated. It, however, also fell a prey to the devouring element, and the sittings were after- wards held in the Music Hall in St. Louis street. The Parliament House was afterwards rebuilt in rather a fllimsy manner, but was again destroyed by fire in 1882, and the sittings are now held in the magnificent new structure, on the G-rande All6e. Since the year 186*7, the date of Confederation, — T — . Roch ine, in the St. imilar rth of vhich. igland ceived Oham- Eilmost 1, the wards Tohn's Quebec has been the seat of government of the province of Quebec and the residence of the lien- tenant-governor, whose beautiful place, Spencer Wood, on the St. Louis road, is well worth a vi- sit from the stranger. e, for- Castle [irham perfor- 1, and ensive louses d mu- 3 were Nuns been to the after- street, uilt in fcroyed leld in i-rande ration, THE CITY ' The Terrace. Standing on tho Terrace, the eastern part of which is called the Durham and the western the Dnfferin Terrace, the beholder is presented with a view which surpasses any in any other part of the world. The promenade is about a quarter of a mile in length and gives to the lover of exercise unrivalled opportunities of indulging therein. At the north end of the Terrace is an elevator, connecting it with the Lower Town. Thither flock :a the eve- ning the beauty and fashion of the old capital and few are the cities which can vie with Quebec in the beauty of their women. Erected on it are five kiosks, named respectively Plessis, Fronte- nac, Lome and Louise, Dufferin, and Victoria and also one for the use of bands of music in the sum- mer afternoons and evenings. Being at an eleva- iion of over two hundred feet, a magnificent pa- norama stretches beneath one, which at the first coup (Tceil is almost bewildering. The Eiver St. Lawrence, bearing on its bosom hundreds of ves- sels of every description, from the tiny canoe, which, from such a height, appears but a speck, to the terraced palace river boat and the hug ocean steamship, flows majestically downward to the sea. Opposite, in the distance, is the town of 9-^ part of ;ern the 1 with a part of mile in rivalled le north jcting it the eve- L capital L Quebec >n it are Fronte- ;oria and the sum- in eleva- Lcent pa- the first ^iver St. s of ves- y canoe, speck, to g ocean 1 to the town of Levis, crowning cliffs higher even than those of Quebec, and where may be seen the three immense forts erected by the English government at a cost of $2,900,000,which render an attack from the south an impracticable if not an impossible attempt. Amid the groups of houses are distinguishable churches, convents and schools, while downwards is seen the spire of the church of St. Joseph, clus- tered round by a number of villas and cottages, and jutting out into the river, the promontory called Indian Point, once dotted by the wigwams of the Mic-Macs, but now inhabited by French Canadians. Towards the east is the Island of Or- leans, once called the Isle de Bacchus, from the quantity of wild grapes then so luxurious of growth but now no more, and again I'lsle des Sorcieres, on account of the bad repute it had gained in re- ference to evil spirits and ghosts, which it, is said, infested the island in times past. On either side the St. Lawrence passes onward under the name of the North and the South Channels. On the north shore, forty miles in the distance, frowns Cap Touri^ent; while, as the eye follows upwards, along the shore are the village of St. Anne, La bonne Ste. Anne, as lovingly called by the villa- gers, Chateau Richer, L'Ange Grardien and Beau- port. Nearly opposite the end of the Island is the indentation, where rush for ever the Falls of Montmorency over the precipice, and from which rises a pillar of fleecy mist. In the rear of all these tower, range after raijge, the Lauren tian Mountains, till their blue summits are lost in the azure of the sky. Beneath lies the Lower "llown, with its linsy crowds. At the mouth ,of th^ St. Charles is the Ciustom House, and immediately r" "'■'^-"' "^ ''^■^- :-i I"* ■' below the Terrace is the Champlain Market Hall. Close by it is the church of Notre-Dame des Yictoires, built in 1616 by Champlain, called first Notre-Dame de la Yictoire to record the defeat of Admiral William Phipps in that year ; its present name commemorates also the loss of the English feet under Sir Hoveden Walker in 1711. At the foot of the cliff runs Champlain street, through which, on the 31st December, l*7t5, Ri- chard Montgomery endeavored to lead an attack on the city, but met his death at a place close by, now marfeed by a wooden sign with the inscrip- tion: 'Here Montgomery fell, 3 1st December,l(r76." Beneath the steps leading from Champlain street to Mountain Hill, called Break-neck Stairs, was discovered, some years ago, the tomb of Cham- plain. His house wasin the vicinity of the church of Notre-Dame des Victoires. Prescott Gate, called after General Prescott, and demolished in 18tl, stood at the spot where the city walls are divided, close to the foot of the steps. Opposite one stood the Bishop's Palace, and where the first cemetery was established, from which in late years have been taken bones and articles of Indian work- manship. Two years ago the Parliament Build- ings were burnt, and with them a large collec- tion of valuable works. Caitle of St. liOuli. Turning our eyes citywards, we find a large building heretofore forming the outhouses of the Chateau St. Louis, which was erected by Cham- — 11—, plain in 1620, where the Terrace now is, on the edge of the cliff. It was intended to build a large hotel on this site, but the prospect of carrying out such a scheme is far off*. Here the French and Eng- lish governors resided under their respective do- minations, until its destruction by fire in 1884, at that time occupied by the governor, Lord Aylmer. On the 31st Dec, 17^5, on the occasion of the night attack by Montgomery and Arnold, the go- vernor. Sir Guy Carleton, was giving a ball in the Castle, and the officers had to rush to the walls in their ball costume. The garden attached to the Castle, called the Castle Garden, commonly known as the Lower Governor's Garden, is now open to the public and forms part of the Duff*erin Terrace ; in it is a masked battery of four guns and two carronades on the Crescent Battery be- neath the Terrace. On the slope towards the Place d'Armes, once stood the Eiding School, in connection with the Castle, and afterwards con- verted into a theatre, and destroyed by fire in June, 1846, during a performance', when forty five persons were .burnt to death. Tbe Eng^llfh Cathedral. To the west of the Place d'Armesisthe English Cathedral, built on the ground where once stood the ancient church of the Recollets and their con- vent, which were destroyed by fire in 1*796. The present building was consecrated in 1804 ; it is built in the Roman style of architecture, and its mural monuments are very fine. In the north- iUi^ , —12--. east corner of the Cathedral close once stood the venerable elm tree, under which Jacques Oartier first assembled his followers on their arrival in the colony, and there are now some magnificent linden trees ornamenting the enclosure. The elm was blown doWn on the 6th September, 1845. • The "Wolfe and IVlontcalm Monnment. In the Upper G-overnor's G-arden is the monu- ment erected to Wolfe and Montcalm, the foun- dation stone of which was laid by the Earl of Dalhousie, the governor-in-chief, on the 15th May, 182Y. It was taken down and rebuilt in 18*71 at the expense of a few citizens. The fol- lowing are the inscriptions : Mortem, virtus communem, Famam Historia, Monumentutn Posteritas Dedit. Hujusce Monumenti in memoriam virorum illustrium, Wolfe et Montcalm Fondamentum P. 0. Georgius, Come de Dalhousie : In septentrionalis Americae partibus Summam rerum administrans ; Opus per multos annos praeter missum Quid duci egregio conveniefitius? Autp^itate pr omoyens, exemplo stimulans ' " ' i , Munificentia fbveris, , ' • . Die JJ'bvembrie xv, A. Dv MDCCCXXVII. Qeotge ly, Britahiarum Rege. \ •< ^- ■ A'.' ■'■ In i^ssing the gate of ithe building he'ret^feirfe decupled ks the Nbrmal School, the strftngei? iiiAy ood the Oartier rival in nificent The elm L846. nt. monn- 16 foun- Earl of he 15th built iu The fol- ''■',('..?! 5' ■' ' ■';?:■, "r.v , t ' ii B^etofdri — 1« — notice a stone which has been incorporated into the wall, bearing the date 1647, and having a Maltese cross cut upon it. It was the foundation stone of the ancient castle of St. Louis and laid by the governor, M. de Montmagny, a Knight of Malta. The Place d'Arinci. The ring, or Place d'Armef , where the Hurons, who had been driven from Lake Simcoe, encam- ped in 1650, constituted in the time of the French the Grande Place, where military parades were held and public meetings called, and was the fashionable promenade of the day. The Union Building^. To the north of the Place d'Armes is the Union Building, where, in the year 1808, and for some time afterwards, the famous Club of Barons, com- prising the principal men of the province and ci- ty were wont to hold their annual dinners. It was subsequently used as an hotel, afterwards as a printing office. To the south of the Cathedral are the Eectory and the Chapel of All Saints, in rear of which once stood the old Court House, destroyed by fire in 18*73, and with it the records and law procee- dings of over two centuries. It has been rebuilt on a more extensive scale. — 14 — h . La IVfalion du Clilen d'Or. Passing to the north by Fort street, we come to a handsome building, the Post Office, erected in 1873, on the site of an old building, which has a world of history connected with it. The famous Grolden Dog, a puzzle to so many, occu- pies its old position above the door on Buade street, just opposite the Ohien d'Or restaurant, as much resorted to in these days as was the site of the Post Office, when Admiral Nelson and Montgomery frequented it. Underneath the G-ol- den doff are the lines : Je suis un chien qui ronge I'og, * ^ En le rongeant je prends mon repoa, Un temps viendra qui n'est pas venu, Que je mordray qui ra'aura raordu. In demolishing the ancient structure, a corner- stone was found, on which was cut a Saint- Andrew's cross between the letters P. H., under the date 1*735. On this was found a piece of lead bearing the following inscription ; Nicolas Jacques, ditPhiliber m'a pose le 26 AoAt, 1834. The story in connection therewith is told as follows : — In this buildiog lived a wealthy merchant of the name of Philibert, who had many causes of complaint against the Intendant, whose high position could not easily be assailed by the simple merchant without suffering severe retaliation ; he therefore satisfied his revenge by — 15 — placing the Golden Dog, with the accompanying linep, aboYe his door. Among other things the Intendant had organized a vast trade monopoly, which received the name of La Friponne, whose transactions and dealings were most oppressive to the people, and in this he was resisted and sometimes circumvented by Mr. Philibert. It is also said that to annoy Mr. Philibert, the Inten- dant, the infamous Bigot, quartered troops upon the Chien d'Or. Be this as it may, a quarrel ensued between Mr. Philibert and Mous. de la Repentigny, boon companion of Bigot, in which the former was fatally wounded and tho latter fled to Nova Scotia, then Acadia, till he received his freedom from the king of France, Louis XIV ; whereoL. it returned to Quebec. After the siege of IVSO, he went to Pondicherry, where, meeting the son of his victim, he was killed by him in a duel. There are several versions of this tradition, but the above seems to be the most correct. A less tragic occurence took place a few years later in the Chien d'Or building. Miles Prentice, who had come out as a sergeant in the *78th Eegiment, under Wolfe, opened an inn in the building, then known as the Masonic Hall, to which inn resorted all the fashionables of the day, among whom was, in 1^82, Captain, afterwards Admiral Nelson, then commanding H. M. S. " Albemarle, " of 26 guns. Miles Prentice had a niece, Miss Simpson, daughter of Sandy Simpson, whose charms so captivated the embryo Admiral, that, when his vessel had sailed from port, he clandestinely returned for the purpose of wed- ding ** The maid of the inn, " which purpose was defeated by Mr. Alexander Davidson, then a mm i i — 16 — Quebec merchant, who, with the assistance of the boat's crew, forcibly carried the amorous captain on board his vessel. This timely inter- ference gained for England many a glorious naval victory, and lost for Lady Hamilton her good name. It was Mrs. Prentice who recognized the body of Eichard Montgomery after the inef- fectual attempt of December 1st, ltt5. A horrible suicide is another of the incidents of the Chien d'Or. Passing along Buade street, we come to the building now occupied, as a printing office, by the Messrs. Brousseau, the scene of the thrilling events of 1690, recorded in the historical romance of Frangois de Bienville^ by Mr. Marmette. The Market Square. In the centre of the square once stood the Mar- ket Hall, a very old-world looking structure of many corners and angles. Across to the west, is a vacant space, the site of '"/^Jesuit Barracks, for- merly the College of Jesuits, the foundations of which were laid in 1635. The building was des- troyed by fire in 1340, and again rebuilt. It occu- pied the four sides of a square, and revelled in iinmense corridors and gloomy passages, while impregnable vaults and cells abounded in the ground basement. They were taken possession of by the English as barracks, and continued to be used as such till the withdrawal of the Impe- rial troops ; a short time after which they were razed to the ground by order of the Dominion Grovernment. This is the end of one of the most noted of Quebec's ancient structures. fv/«-« ' Uv 1 "tt »• », Vr' ice of Lorous inter- onous n her rnized inef- )rribl.e Chien to the ce, by rilling mance e Mar- ;ure of i/'est, is ks, for- Lons of ras des- i occu- lled ill while in the session ued to ! Impe- j were minion e most ■#■ ^ fi ;'iiii i in\'t,W'.\t'ii|ii",Mii"i'„ i v H H ill i lf I OMmON Jktit^ 3ll^9^p^ prio^ '■-I "•Z^'. ' /--T^ \r. S •-."!,•¥ I '^ *<4S % T,? v> < %f 4? .,o.. 'V- I:'' ■i' J; ENiUilgB, o: t*^' ptwMc% esftblei me to ^6 tiitear and teqttireDsi^^ of t2 c] — lY — To the south of the Square is the restaurant of Mr. G-rondin, which was the first in Quebec, kept in 1648 by one Jacques Boisdon, then having the sign "Au Baril d'Or." with the added words, " J'en bois done." Jacques Boisdon had the right by deed, signed by M. d'Ailieboust, Pere Lale- ment, and the Sieurs Ohavigny, Grodfroi and Gif- fard, to serve his guests, provided it was not du- ring mass, the sermon, catechism, or vespers. To the north of the Square are the stores of Messrs. Fisher & Blouin, saddlers, where, in 1810, resided G^eneral Brock, the hero of Queenstown Heights. The Ba§ilica. The French Cathedral raised to the rank of Basilica Minor in 18*74, was consecrated in 1666, by Monseigneur de Laval, who arrived from France in 1659, on the 6th June, under the title of Bishop of Petrea. He was the first Bishop of the colony, but, on account of failing health, was obliged to retire from his arduous labors, and was succeeded by Monseigneur de St. Valier. The construction of the church in rear of the al- tar rails is a copy of St. Peter's at Eome. In the church are several valuable paintings. The Conception, after Lebrun by an unknown artist. St. Paul, by Carlo Marati. Christ, attended by Angels, by Ristout. The flight of Mary and Joseph, by T. Hamel. Christ Dy Van Dyck. Nativity of Christ, Copy of Guido. Christ Submitting to tne Soldier, by Fleuret — 18 — Pentecost, by Mignon. The Holy Family, by Jacques Blanchard. The Annunciation, by Jean Ristout. St. Ann and the Tomb of the Saviour, by Plamondon. Birth of Christ, by Annibal Carrache. Altar, Miracle of St. Ann, by A. Plamondon. The sacred vestments may be seen on applica- tion to the verger. They are the finest in Ame- rica. The building was greatly injured by the siege of 1^59, and some paintings utterly des- troyed. The Seminary and Cliapel. To the north stood the Seminary Chapel, in which were several productions of the most celeb- rated masters but destroyed by fire, on the 1st January, 1888. Jesus and the Woman of Samaria... Lagrenc6. ^he Virgin Attended by Angels De Dfeu. The Crucifixion Moint. The Desert of Thebais Guillot. Terror of St. Jerome Copy by A. Plamondon. The Ascension Ph. Champagne. The Sepulchre H^rtin. The Flight into Egypt Vauclos. Two -Angels Ch. Lebrun. Ecstasy of St. Antoine de Padou Jos. Baoul d' Avignon. Pentecost Ph. Champagne. St. Peter delivered from Prison Ch. de la Fosse. Baptism of the Saviour Claude Guy Hall6. St. Jerome Writing J.B.Champagne. Adoration of the Magi, (Signed) Bossieu. Si. Charles Borromm6e. St. John the Baptiste. Passing through the gate, the visitor finds himself en the Seminary Square, on three sides of which is the Seminary, which was founded in .'JBM ttM BU MUIW — 19 — oa. applica- in Ame- by the jrly des- lapel, in )st celeb- the 1st ndon. aon. 1663 by Monseigneur de Laval. The building was destroyed by fire on the 15th November, 1701, and was rebuilt and again destroyed on the 1st October, 1*705, when it was again rebuilt but al- most entirely demolished during the siege of 1*769. The College is divided into the Grand Se- minaire, a school of divinity, having seven pro- fessors and about thirty-four students, and the Petit Seminaire, for general education, having about six hundred pupils, instructed by over forty professors. Passing through the intermina- ble corridors, the lower one of which is partly under ground and lighted by barred windows, one becomes bewildered and might lose him&elf in the endless turnings and descents. One may easily imagine himself in the dim periods of the Middle Ages, and illusion rendered more vivid by the sombre figures of robed priests pacing up and down the vast galleries. Within the last three years or so a very large addition has been made to the buildings, which was very much needed to accommodate the great number of pupils attending the Seminary. They, with those of the Laval University, occupy a large extent of ground in one of the finest portions of the city. ;or finds ree sides anded in Tlie liaval lJiiiTer§it]r may be reached by a passage from the Seminary, or by the front entrance. The boarding-house is separated from the principal building, as is also the School of Medicine. The structure was erec- — 20 — ''/f-r^^^^ ted in 185t, first founded by Monseignenr de La- val There are four chairs : — Theology, Law, Medicine and Art, there being thirty four profes- sors and nearly three hundred students. Seven colleges and seminaries are affiliated with the University. There are several large halls, contain- ingthe Museums of G-eology, Natural History, Arts and Sciences. The Picture G-allery is yearly re- ceiving large additions, while the library is the largest in Canada and is rich in valuable MSS, relating to the early history of the country. From the promenade on the roof a magnificent view of the valley of the St. Charles and down the St. Lawrence can be had. This University is every day becoming more popular, not only with the French Canadians, but throughout the Dominion and the United States. The remains of Monseigneur de Laval, which had been interred after his death, 6th May, 1*708, in the Basilica, and afterwards exhumed and reinterred in the same place by Mgr. Pontbriand, were discovered during some excavations in the Bpsilica in 187^, and were reinterred with great ceremony and pomp on the 23rd May 18'78, a pro- cession bearing the remains and visiting^ the four churches, which it is said were called at by the first funeral cortege ; the Seminary Chapel, the Ursuline Chapel the Congregational Chapel, and St. Patrick's Church in lieu of the Recollet Church, no longer in existence. On this occasion, 100 guns were fired, at intervals of one minute and a half, from the Jesuit Barrack' s yard, by the Volunteer Field Battery. 21 r de La- r, Law, r profes- . Seven ith the contain- ►ry, Arts arly re- y is the le MSS, 3ountry. nificent 1 down ersity is ot only Lout the , which y, 1*708, Led and tbriand, s in the th great 8, a pro- the four by the pel, the pel, and Recollet ccasion, minute , by the The Battery. Leaving the University by the eastern entrance the visitor finds himself on the Battery. The fol- lowing are the names of the dififerent batteries, e:S tending from the site of the Parliament Build- ings to Palace gate ; The Assembly Battery, 9 guns ; the Grrand Battery, It guns ; the St-Charles Battery, 2 guns and 3 bombs ; Half Moon Bat- tery, 1 gun ; Hope Gate Battery, 4 guns ; Mont- calm Battery, 4 guns ; Nunnery Battery, No. 2, 4 guns and 2 howitzers ! Nunnery Battery, No. 1. 2 guns and 2 howitzers. In addition to these there are, in the Lower Governor's Garden and beneath the Dulferin Terrace, Wolfe's Battery of 4 guns and 1 Palisser cannon, and two minor batteries with 4 guns. Hope Gate, like the others, has been demolished and a promenade occupies the site of the former block house. At a short distance to the west of this promenade is the former residence of Mont- calm, now converted into ordinary dwelling- houses. Proceeding along by the Battery road, the view of St. Charles valley and the Laurentides is en- chanting, and the suburbs of St. Roch stretch by the banks of the meandering St. Charles till they merge into green fields and happy-looking farms. The next gate is Palace Gate, demolished beyond recognition. Its guard house is now no more, and the barracks, which once stood on the oppo- site side of the street, were, one Christmas night, destroyed by fire, the result of the freedom allowed to the men by the colonel. The consumption of — 22 — liquors generated carelessness, which ended in a mass of ruins on the following morning. Outside the gate, at the foot of the hill, in rear of Bos well's Brewery, is all that remains of the Intendant's Palace, once the abode of luxury, the scene of revelry and debauchery, a building which outshone in splendor and magnificence the Cas- tle of St. Louis, and whose lords considered them- selves the equals, if not the superiors, of the go- vernors. Here the infamous Bigot concocted the ne- farious plottings of the Friponne ; here he squan- dered the thousands which he robbed from the Public Treasury, and pilfered from the downtrod* den inhabitants of New France. His princely mansion now serves but as vaults for casks and puncheons of ale and porter. In close proximity to the Artillery Barracks are what were once the oflBicers' quarters, delightfully situated in a shaded park, rejoicing in a snrubbe- ry, wild and Juxurioas, forming the heau ideal of cool retreats, amidst piles of brick and mortar. It is now occupied as a military laboratory for the manufacture of ammunition for the Canadian Go- vernment. St. John Gate. This is but a modern structure, which might as well have been left unbuilt. The old gate was found to be such an obstruction to general traffic and travel that it had to be demolished^ there being through it, but one passage, which was so narrow that only a single vehicle at a time could — 28 — ed ia a « in rear of the ary, the which he Cag- d them- the go- l the ne- 5 squan- om the wntrod- princely sks and acks are jhtfuUy hrubbe- ideal of mortar. Y for the [ian Go- might tte was 1 traffic \\ there was so .e could pass, and foot passengers could get through with difficulty. The present gate had to be built, for the English Government insisted upon the ol4 one being replaced in case of war. Opposite the gate, within, is one of the old buildings, but it has outlived its story, and research has not unravelled it. It is occupied by Mr. Johnston, a ba- ker. Two other old buildings arc still to be seen in St. John street, one occupied by Post Master Tourangeau and the other by Mr. Alford. Tbe Esplanade. On D'Auteuil Hill, where a street has been cut through the city walls, is Kent Gate, the foundation stone of which was laid by H. R. H. the Princess Louise in June 18*79. It is a very handsome erection, built in the Norman style with a turret, from which can be had a magnifi- cent view of the valley of the St. Charles and ri- ver St. Lawrence. Near by is the church of the Congregation. In this church were committed a daring robbery and sacrilege ; the altar ornaments being stolen by a man named Chambers and his gang, who, at the time, over forty years ago, inau- gurated a reign of terror by their astounding and many robberies. Of the last crime, however, he and his gang w ere found guilty and were trans- ported. Opposite is the Esplanade, which runs as far as St. Louis street,and is bounded to the west by the city walls. From their summit one can trace the old French fortifications, which defen- ded the city in its early history ; but these are — 24 — iiftst disappearing ; road makers and house-buil- ders are using up the material and there is no one to say nay to the Vandals. Before the with- drawal of the Imperial troops, the Esplanade was strictly guarded ; sentinels patrolled the ram- parts, and no thoroughfare was allowed after gun fire. But it is now the resort of the athletic clubs in the city ; lacrosse, football, h::seball, cricket and other games are played there continually du- ring the Summer, and snowshoeing and tobogga- ning are the amusements of Winter. The Band of A Battery, at times delighted the promenaders with their evening concerts till they were trans- ferred to the Terrace and here also the military of the Citadel and the voluntaers perform their evolutions. There are still some remnants of past glory. A few dismounted cannon may be found on the ramparts, while a dozen more lie side by side on the ground beneath these, and the senti- nel poplars still keep their watch as of yore. The Garrison €lnb. The building next the foot of Citadel Hill, of one story, was formerly occupied by the Royal Engineers, and is now used by the Quebec G-ar- Tison Club, composed of officers of A Battery and citizens. Richard Montgromery. Close at hand^ on the Grande AUee, is where — 25 — once stood Saint-Louis Gate, now replaced by Dufferin G-ate, in honor of the popular governor- general of Canada of that name It is, like the Kent Gate, built in the old Norman style, with a tower and turret. Near the foot of the Citadel Hill, which winds up on the south side, is where Eichard Montgomery was buried, after the attempt at invasion on 31st Dec. 1^75, from which place, on 16th June, 1818, his body was taken to New- York, and interred in Saint-Paul's Church Cemetery. Tbe Citadel. At the top of the Hill is the Chain Gate, by which access to the trenches is gained ; and to the Citadel the visitor passes through Dalhousie Gate, so called after Lord Dalhousie, once a governor of the colony. At this gate a guard is stationed, and visitors are furnished with a guide to show them over the fortress. Behind the walls are casemated barracks for the troops, and these are loopholed for musketry, so as to command the trenches ; while on the summits are cannon, commanding all approaches to the city landward ; and, on the opposite side, are batteries commanding the harbor. Two Arms- trong guns are here mounted, as also a huge Palliser. Across the Citadel Square are the officers' quarters ; stores for ammunition, stables and other buildings occupy the western portion of the Square. To the South, directly overlooking the river, is the Flagstaff Bastion, on which is — 26 — mounted an Armbtrong gun. This battery is over three hundred and fifty feet above low water and the view from it is the grandest in the world, commanding the river up and down for many miles. To the West are the Plains of Abraham, where was fought the decisive battle of 13th September, 1759. Three Martello Towers, built in 1812, are to be seen, constructed weak towards the city, so as easily to be destroyed in the event of capture, and strong on the outer sides, having cannon mounted. Immense mili- tary stores are constantly kept ready for use in the Citadel, and arms for twenty thousand men are ready at a moment's notice. In the event of the capture of the city, it could easily be destroyed from the Citadel. The B Battery, consisting of about two hundred rank and file, is now quar- tered there, and seems but a handful in the immense fortress. It is impossible to say what the building of the Citadel cost, but the sums expended on the fortifications of Quebec were so extravagant that Louis XIV expressed himself that they must havo been built of gold. Among the improvements proposed by the Earl of Dufferin was the construction of a new Castle of St. Louis in the Citadel, in the Norman style of architecture, to be the residence set apart for the Governor G-enerai of Canada, but that scheme is not likely to be carried out. The Citadel suffered serious loss by fire on the 6th July 188Y, when the Cavalry stables, built on the ramparts facing the city, were entirely destroyed by fire, occasioning the loss of the whole of the horses therein contained belonging -27 — attery is ove low st in the down for 'lains of ve battle ) Towers, ted weak troyed in the outer jnse mili- ar use in mnd men mt of the iestroyed dsting of ow quar- il in the what the :he sums 5 were so L himself y the Earl w Castle lan style apart for at scheme re on the Les, built 9 entirely is of the belonging to the Eoyal School of Cavalry. An immense quantity of scores was also consumed. The Koyal School of Cavalry now occupies quarters at the old armoury, D'Auteuil street ; and the old Provincial G-overnment House, on St. Louis Street, has been transformed into quarters for the officers of the same. St. IjOuU Street. Descending the Citadel Hill, we return to St. Louis street. At a short distance on the left hand side is the City Hall,built on the site of the house once occupied by the chemist, M. Arnous,to which, as stated by some, Montcalm was carried from the Plains of Abraham after being wounded. The third house from the next corner on the same side, is where General Montgomery's body was taken on that fatal 31st Dec, 1775 It was then occupied [by a cooper named Graubert, and from it was taken and buried, as above mentioned, at the foot of Ci- tadel Hill. It is now an emporium for the sale of [Indian work and other curiosities. Further down the street, on the right hand side, lis a large building, now occupied by Col. Forest, j which Intendant Bigot, with his wonted liberality with things not belonging to him, presented to [his mistress, the beautiful Angelique de Meloises, I the wife of De Paen, Bigot's chief assistant in all his nefarious transactions. After Bigot had return^ ed to France, stripped of his honors and of his illgotten wealth, and branded with the name of [thief, Madame De Paen was not forgetful of hor ■H — 28 \lM I'M quondam lover, but, out of the spoils she had ma- naged to keep safe, allowed him a moderate com- petency. Mr. Kirby, in his historical romance, " The Golden Dog," has woven an exceedingly in- tricate and exciting plot out of the loves ol these two personages. The residence of the fair and proud Angelique became, under i nglish rule, quarters for officers not residing in the Citadel, and the buildings in rear were used as the Mili- tary Hospital. These buildings from an hospital became Her Majesty's Courts of Law in this district, but have lately been vacated as such, as a splendid new Court House has been erected. In rear of the old Courts of Law is a hill called Mount Carmel : on which, in the time of the French domination, stood a windmill, turn- ed into a tower of defence by a heavy cannon mounted thereon for the protection of the colony, against the inroads of the warlike Iroquois. The windmill has disappeared, but in the spring- time the lilac trees on its summit present a most delightful sight, while the delicious odor from them is some compensation to those who have to practise law in the buildings beneath. Further down St. Louis street, on the same side, are two small houses irregularly located, which cannot fail of attracting notice by their ancient style of architecture ; the immense thickness of their walls, their small doors and windov^s, the lowness of their basement storys, in fact their only story, their huge chimneys and their peaked roofs mark them as of the old time. But, like the houses on St. John street, they have outlived their history ; their position must have had a romantic side to it, so near to the — 29 — naughty De Pean, so close to the Ursuline Con- vent, and Mad. de la Peltrie's habitation, and ly- ing secure beneath the protecting tower on Mount Carmel, beside the stream which history tells us flowed down from the Cape to the River St. Charles. The lJr§uline Convent. Passing down the street opposite these old fashioned structures, we come to the Ursuline Convent and Chapel, in which lie the remains of the brave Montcalm. Madame De la Peltrie, a pious French lady, founded the Convent in 1641, and, as is usual with all buildings of that time, it was destroyed by fire, in 1650. Being re- i built, it was again destroyed on 21st Oct., 1686. ! On both these occasions, the Ursuline nuns were I received by the Hospitalieres Nuns of the Hotel Dieu. It was again rebuilt, the whole colony as- sisting in its construction ; so loved and esteemed [were Madame De la Peltrie and the Ursulines. [The Convent has been greatly enlarged during the last few years. A garden is in the rear, in which about twenty five years ago was a monarch I ash tree. The Chapel of St. Ursula is alongside the Con- vent and possesses many valuable paintings as [follows : jjesas sitting down at meat ia Simoa'g house... Ph. de Ohampagne. iDeath of St-Jerome [Bishop St-NoQus admitting to penance St- Pelagia J. rxudhoiQme, 1737 — 30 — The wise and foolish virgins From Florence. The miraculous draught of fishes ¥, t 'g: ■' ISUXiEU OHB DIS0IH6UI8HBD M0II^KA6& OP H. P^. H. Pr^INGESS LOUISE POI^ LADIES JAGI^BHtS ill ,iS!^ i;i ! i'J •_j;j:;_r;j.Lr_»_j^-rz. ,OTgan PLAGE D'ARMES Opposite Dulferin Terrace Q^BBBe ■y, jr 7 1, FIRST BLOOD 47 " Na," the little man replied, sucking his twig. " Hoo did ye coom by him then ? " "Found him in ma stockin' en ma birthday. A present from ma leetle Davie for his auld dad, I doot." " Liar agin ! " came a shrill voice from up the sldpe. M* Adam rose to his feet and looked about ; but no one could be seen. " Thank ye, dear lad, thank ye ! " he called kindly. " I'll no' forget ye, niver fear. . . . Ah, James Moore" — turning to the Master — " I'll leave ma mark on ma son if ever dad did." But James Moore was now far away up the slope, speeding to his subaltern's assistance; for the flock above was in sudden^ com motion. The sheep clustered in very act to break, in fearful head-proud disorder ; while all amongst them scoured a small insidious figure, red-rocket-wise, snapping, snatching, snarling. But for the authority of their grey leader, his quick prescience, his commanding presence, panic must have seized the pack. " M'Adam ! " the Master tossed across his shoulder, ^" your dog's amang t' sheep." "Niver fash," the little man replied, sucking his eternal twig, " he'll tak' no hurt." At the moment, a tup broke away down the hill. Hard behind, the tailless puppy scurried in red wrack. An instant's interval ; the Master's voice in sharp command ; and a grey figure foamed against the green. In a flash this third of the three had caught the pursuer, shot past him, and was already on the heels of the pursued as he rattled over the plank. Another moment and he had rounded off the fugitive and herded him back to the bridge. But there now a wee red warrior was awaiting, resolute to hold passage against all comers. 34 — The Methodist Charch. At the top of the same hill is the Methodist Church, erected in 1860, in flamboyant style of architecture. It seats about 1,600. St-Andrew's Church. Close at hand is Saint- Andrew's Church, built in 1810 and enlarged in 1821. It accommodates 1,600 persons. A manse and schoolhouse are attached. Morrin College. In a building, which was formerly the district gaol, erected in 1814, at a cost of $60,000, is the Morrin College, which was founded by the magnificent endowment of the late Dr. Morrin of Quebec, in 1860, incorporated by Provincial Act of Parliament, in 1861, and opened in November, 1862. It is affiliated with McG-ill University of Montreal. Its faculty of Divinity is in connection with the Church of Scotland. The late Mr. Justice Aylwin presented it with his vuluabie Law Library. The IJterary and Hlftorlcal flocfetjr. This Society, which was founded by Lord Methodist at style of irch, built >mmodates house are the district ,000, is the ed by the Morrin of incial Act November, liversity of connection 3 late Mr. is Yi|luable — 36 — Dalhousie in 1824, has its rooms in Morrin College. It has a large library and an extensive museum, and is in a flourishing condition. Instttut Canadion. This Society is in a building on Fabrique street>nd has a large roll of members. Tlie 'Women'§ Christian Association Is situate on St-Anne street, nearly opposite Morrin College court. The High School. The Quebec High School is a handsome build^ ing, situate in St-Denis street, at the foot of the Q-lacis, stretching downwards from the Citadel. It was established in 1845, and many of the leading men of the city have received their education within its walls. »ciety. I by Lord Ohalmers' Church In St-Ursule street, built after the Gothic style was erected in 1852. It seats about 900 persons. This church was the scene of the Gavazzi riot, — 86 — /' which took place in 1869, and was the cai^se of much embitterment between the Roman Oatho- lics and Protestants of the city : happily long since subsided. The Baptist Clhurcli Is a small building in McMahon street, opposite th(» entrance to the Artillery Park, and was erected in 1854. The Frenck Protestant Charch Is a pretty little church situated in St-John street, without, and was erected 18^6. St-matthenr's Chapel (Episcopal) Is also situate in St-John street, erected in the English burial ground, which has long since been closed. St-Matthews' is built after the Gothic style, and is tastefully ornamented in its interior. During the past few years it has been considerably emarged and a steeple added there- to. There is another Episcopal chapel, St-Peter*s, in St-Valier street, St- Eoch, and the Mariners' Chapel on Ghamplain street, as also a Scandi- navian Ghapel. — St — Church and Convent of the Grey Sisters. This church is situate in St-Oliver street, but it is so hemmed in by the other buildings of the sisterhood that it is hardly discernible. On the occasion of the burning of the Parliament Buil- dings, several years ago, the sittings of the Chambers were held in this church, or were about to be held, when it, too, fell a prey to the flames, and Parliament was removed to the Music Hall. G-rave suspicions were enter- tained at the time as to the causes of these two conflagrations. Young men's Christian Association. Immediately outside St- John's G-ate is the Young I Men's Christian Association building; the lower part of which is let as shops. In it are a library, reading room and lecture hall. The building is open to the public. JeflVey Hale Hospital. lis situated opposite the Convent of ihe G-rey [Sisters, and was founded by the late Jeffrey Lale, Esq., who passed his life in doing good, lit is under the direction of a Board of Gjv r- Lors. " — 88 — The CJhrlstlan Brothers' School. is situate on Gallows' Hill, and has a very large attendance, at a nominal rate of charges. Le Bon Pasteur and other Religious Establishments. The Church and Hospital of Le Bon Pasteur is situate on Lachevrotiere street. It is a refuge for lost women and a school of reform. St John's Church in the ward of that name has been rebuilt on the old foundationsjit having been destroyed by fire. Its interior is not yet complete. In St Roch there are two Catholic churches, the Parish Church and the Church of the Con- gregation, under the ministration of the Je^ ts, both situate in St Joseph street, in whic^ jo are several schools for the instruction of girls. In St Sauveur there are the Parish Church, and the Church of Our Lady of Lourde and large schools. The Hospital of the Sacred Heart of Jesus is situate near the River St. Charles, in St. Sauveur. The Bellevue Convent is situate at St-Foy, and the Convent of Jesus Marie at Sillery. The Finlay Asylum, of G-othic architecture, is situate on St-Foy road, just outside the tollgate, and is a home for aged and infirm Protestants. On the Grande Allee, near the toll-gate, are three benevolent institutions—the Ladies' Pro- testant Home of the Church of England, the — 89-- I. ery large ). Female Orphan Asylum, and St-Bridget's Asy- lum, near which last is St-Patrick's Cemetery, now closed to interments. Another Eoman Catholic Church, Notre-Dame de la Grdce is at Cap Blanc. gious 3n Pasteur ; a refuge that name 3,it having is not yet churches, f the Con- lie Je^ 'ts, whic^ JO Df girls, h Church, 3 and large of Jesus is t. Sauveur. at St-Foy, ery. fchitecture, ho tollgate, testants. 11-gate, are adies' Pro- gland, the The marine Hoipltal. This magnificent building is situate on the banks of the St-Charles, in the northern part of St-Roch suburbs. It is built after the Ionic style of architecture, and is said to be in imitation of the temple of the Muses on the Eiver Illissus, near Athens. Its site is on the place called la Vacherie, on the opposite side of the river to which Jacques Cartier met Donnacona in 1535. The foundation stone was laid in 1832 by Lord Aylmer, then G-overnor of Lower Canada and the building was completed in 1834, at a cost of nearly $100,000. It has accommodation for over six hundred patients. It is solely for the uso of mariners and immigrants. Tlic Oeneral Hospital. The G-eneral Hospital is one of the finest insti- tutions of the kind in Canada, or the States. It is situate on the South bank of the St-Charles, not far from the Marine Hospital. The buildings are extensive, and, with the gardens, cover a large area. It was founded by Monseigneur de St- — 40 — Valier, second Bishop of Quebec, as an asylum for incurable diseases. In 1692, it was placed under the charge of the Hospitalieres Nuns, who, in 1761, constituted a separate body from their sisters of the Hotel-Dieu. Near the G-eneral Hospital is a windmill of a most old fashioned order. It was a protection as a fort to the Consent. On the opposite sido of the river are immense vaults, used at the time of the French for storing provisions. Th Skating^ Rink. Just outside the city walls, on the G-rand Allee is the Quebec Skating Rink, supposed to be the finest on the Continent. It was finished in 1877, and opened in the Winter of that year by the Lieutenant-Grovernor, Letellier de St- Just, on the occasion of a grand fancy dress ball, several of which are given during the season. The Departmental Building§. The Departmental Buildings are on the north side of the G-rand Allee, and form a magnificent pile. They are constructed in the modern style of architecture, are four stories in height with a mansard roof and "^owers at each corner. They are used as Parlj iient House for the Province of Quebec, and all offices of the government connec- ted with the province. They rank amongst the — 41 — 1 asylum s placed ns, who, om their aill of a ccioii as e sido of the time Grrand )osed to finished lat year St-Just, ss ball, season. e north nificent n style with a . They ince of connec- gst the finest buildings on the continent.The ven- tilation and drainage are good, being much superior in those respects to the buildings at Ottawa. Being erected on almost the highest part of the city, the view from the main lower, and upper stories is unrivalled. The Drill Shed This is a magnificent building erected on the south side of the Grrand Allee, not far from the Departmental buildings. During the Provincial Exhibition of ISBT, it was used for the reception of scientific models and paintings and the spacious grounds sur- rounding it were covered by exhibits of ma- chinerv etc. Lacrosse Grounds. To the right of the Grrand Allee is a large enclosure appropriated by the lovers of lacrosse ; several clubs devoted to this game are in the city. The Observatory At a short distance further out, on the Plains of Abraham, is the Quebec Observatoiy. PI ini '^n jl'iil ;t! m If-' — 42 — ^aebec Goal. On the Plains of Abraham is a massive build- ing, the Quebec G-aol. The Harbor. The Harbor Improvements are at the mouth of the St Charles river and are well worth a visit. They are being constructed a+ +he expense of the Dominion government and oraprise an immense wharf running from the Gas Wharf into the St Lawrence, where another wharf connects it with the old Commissioners' Wharf, thus enclosing large docks for shipping. The Custom IIoii§e. Near the Commissioners' Wharf is the Custom House, a fine building of Doric architecture, built of cut stone, the portico of which fronts the St. Lawrence, with steps leading down to the water's edge. It was built in 1854, consumed by fire in 1864, and shortly afterwards rebuilt. Orand Trunk and other Railway Stations. In the vicinity is the GTrand Trunk Eailway Station whence the Ferry Steamer leaves for — 43 — the station on the Levis side of the river. The same ferry conveys passengers to the Intercolo- [nial station at Levis. Passengers by the Quebec Central railway ; cross the river by the Quebec and Levis ferry boats. The Canadian Pacific and theLake St. John Eailway stations are situate in St Paul Street, near the foot of Palace hill at the Palais harbor. It is intended to have a station of the Canadian Pacific Eailway built on the Commissioners* Wharf at deep water. TheOates. Much that is interesting and ancient in Quebec has in the las I few years disappeared. The old gates, which excited the wonder and curiosity of the traveller, have been levelled, and the fortifications and walls of the city, which then bristled with cannon and were patrolled night and day by vigilant sentinels, have changed their warlike appearance to peaceful promenades. St. Louis and St. John's gate were the most ancient, having been erected in 1694 and re))uilt in 1791. The former has given place in our days to the Dufferin gate and its former zigzag approaches straightened to a broad thoroughfare. St John's gate, which had form- erly but one narrow archway, was also demol- lished and rebuilt in 1865. Kent Grate was built to ornament a new thoroughfare through the city walls. Palace gate was also erected under the French domination, and was razed in 1791 by — 44 — the English and replaced in 1831 by a handsome gate with three arches, which has now also dis- appeared. Hope gate was built in 1*786 by Col. Hope, then commandant of the forces and admin- istrator. It was also demolished in 18*74. Prescott gate was erected in 1*78^ and has followed the fate of the others. In 182*7, under the administration of the Earl of Dalhousie, were erected on the citadel the Dal- housie and the Chain Grates. THE ENVIRONS. It can be said of Quebec that the environs are npt surpassed, or even equalled ia romantic beauty, or picturesque wildness. One may take any standpoint in the city, and before him is a glorious panorama ; and at the end of nearly, every street one may see a delightful vista. ii> BEAUFORT ASYLUM. Leaving the city and crossing the river St Charles by Dorchester Bridge the visitor will drive along the Beauport road and within two miles reach the Beauport Asylum, founded in 1856 by Drs. Morrin, Douglas and Fremont, with the promise of the support of Lord Metcalfe and his government. Since that time, the if ■■. ■ft ■'-. .. j — 45 — .udsome Iso dis- by Col. i admin- Prescott wed, the ;lie Earl the Dal- Tons are romantic lay take tiim is a [>f nearly, ta. river St itor will thin two founded Fremont, Metcalfe Ime, the establishment has been vastly increased and improved ; there being the principal building, having two wings, another building separate from the main,, and a sort of villa structure for convalescent patients. There are now over 900 inmates within its walls. After passing the asylum, the village of Beauport may be said to commence, and its houses and cottages line the road for five miles, ending only at the river Montmorency. On the site of the village, or rather between it and the beach, was fought the battle of the 31st July 1^59, betw«ien the English and French, in which the latter were victorious and the former lost 182 killed and 665 wounded and missing. The headquarters of Montcalm were to the right after passing over the stream, but the Manor House, in which they were established, was burnt a short time ago. After the taking of Quebec, the English avenged themselves by sacking and firing, not only the village of Beauport, but also the villages of L'Ange Gardien, Chateau Richer, St- Ann and Baie St-Paul and destroying all the crops in the [country round. After its destruction a plate was found on the jorner stone with the following inscription in ^oman capitals : " L'an 1634, le 29 juillet, je 6te >lant premiere, P. C GriFORT, seigneur de ce 1. " Above it were the letters I. H. S. and also [. J. A., representing the names Mary, Joseph md Anne. Beneath it was a heart with three itars and a smaller heart reversed. This plate is [n the possession of Mr. Herman Ryland who Las built a residence on the site of the old [anor House. m — 46 — III THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCY. The falls of Montmorency may be seen either from above or below. To view them from below, the visitor must descend what is called the Zig- zag Hill, which passes through Mr. Hall's pro- perty, and in doing so the visitor is reminded that the residence thereon was once occupied by the Duke of Kent, the father of Hor Majesty Queen Victoria. On reaching the foot of the hill we can pass along the beach, till we arrive, as it weri', almost underneath the avalanche of waters, while the spray therefrom descends in a sort of drizzling shower, and through which, if the sun be shining, the brightly hued rain- bow can be seen bathing its colors in the frenzied cataract. The body of water which, from the height of 250 feet leaps its precipice, passes, it is said, through a subterranean passage, and rises in a tumultuous manner near the end of the Island of Orleans, gaining the name of Le Taureau ; by boatmen considered a dangerous spot. The view above the Falls is taken from the opposite side, the visitor passing over the Montmorency Bridge, then through a field oppo- site the Hotel, and for which a charge is made, and down a stairway to a platform, which directly overlooks the Falls. .The mad turbulence of the water and the deafening roar, which ever seems to increase, is almost bewildering, and the dizzy height at which one is placed causes a certain amount of uneasiness and sense of danger. There is wildness all round, the high clittis with over- hanging trees and bushes and the violence of the rapids rivet the imagination with resistless — 4^- fasciuation. On both sides of the river are the remnants of two towers, between which was suspended a bridge, which fell nearly forty years ago, carrying with it an unfortunate countryman, his wife, child, horse and vehicle, whose remains were never afterwards discovered. THE NATURAL STEPS. A by-way road through the fields leads the visitor to the Natural Steps, which, by some, are considered the grandest feature of the scene. Nothing more wild and wierd can bo imagined than this mad river with its perpendicular preci- pices on each side, clothed with tufts of shrub- bery, and whose summits are fringed with over- hanging pines, which watch, as it were, on the threatening waters, now leaping over huge rocks and forming furious cascades, anon seeth- ing, moody, silent pools, whose blachness makes night look pale. Here the waters eddy round in. ever-quickening circles, raising in their wrath bubbles and froth to the surface, and sudden- ly leaping onwards beneath the overhanging cliffs. Where the visitor stands, shady nooks, hidden in ferns and wild plants, invite to rest, .while the peculiar formation of the rocks serves as tables for pic-nic collations. In the Summer, these Natural Steps are the resort of pleasure parties, and the followers of Izaak Walton can tempt from the angry torrent the most delicious speckled t out. Near by is the Fairy River, which myste- — 48 — riously disappears beneath the earth and asain as mysteriously re-appears. It is also called rSau Tenue. A ^■i L'AN^aE aAEDlEN. The village of TAnge G-ardien is about four miles boyond Montmorency and, as above stated, was destroyed by "Wolfe's soldiery, after the battle of Beauport in 1*769. There are some good trout fishing streams at a short distance ; and, in the autumn snipe and partridge shooting. CHATEAU RICHEE. This village is about five miles further down. In the fruit season the orchards of FAn^je G-ardien are so laden that along the road the green color of the trees is hidden by the purple of the plum and the roseate hue of the apple. At about' four miles distance to the South of Chateau Kicher, are the beautiful Falls called Sault k la Puce, which are not only enchanting in their scenery, but abound in trout. The Cha- teau Eicher beach is famous as a snipe ground, and in September and October numberless sportsmen make good bags. ■I'-iLi r '^1 ?LaRQCHE&M -«^ OPPOSI^PB P0S1U-0PPI6B tf-^ IMPOBTERS & DEALERS IN ../ ' ti^ruas vj^emicais, I atent i rteaecines I I erfumery, fyc, fyc. rrescrlptlons and Family l^eceipts eAREPULUY DISPENSED PROPRIETORS OP ihamberlain'si •isfii r ^ii I Jill .'.il i '■«M>aM« mtm »!»•*•*«■•«•*■■••*■*" NIWNMMmi rt . '■'(.4 ■"■■■ , ■' WiTOHBS flNBJBi FANS ■' OPERA aLASSBS . ^ 85 TetMUNitaUii&iimKti*^ ftiitiatee of otu >'^^ fe^>^ ;^>iii ■.-O^tS.i — 49 — THE SHRINE AND FALLS OF ST. ANNE. At the distance of about twenty miles below Quebec is the village of St Anne de Beaupre, sometime called St. Anne du Nord, and always La bonne Ste Anne^ to whom is consecrated the parish church, erected, about sixteen years^ago by the Pope, into a shrine of the first order. There is a fine painting by the famous artist LeBrun, " Ste. Anne and the Virgin, " presented by M. de Tracy, viceroy of New France, in 1666, to the church, for benefits received. The festival day of this saint is the 26th of July, at which time thousands of pilgrims proceed not only by steamer and carriage, but on foot, to this holy shrine ; many walking the whole distance from Quebec as a penance, or in performance of vows. The church is a new building, the old one having been found too small for the accommo- dation of the crowds of pilgrims who resort thither. In it are placed thousands of crutches left by those who departed after being cured of lameness and other maladies by the Bonne Ste. Anne, whose praises are worldwide ; for here congregate thousands of pilgrims from all parts of the continent to be cured of their infirmities. Deposited in the sanctuary is a holy relic, a finger bone of the saint herself, on kissing which the devotee is immediately relievedof all worldly ills and misfortunes. Wonder begins and mis- belief vanishes on gazing at the piles of crut- ches ; there one beholds unmistakable evidence of the unlimited medicinal powers of the mother of the Virgin. Daily are the proofs of this power manifested ; the visitor can see with his own 4 — 60 — eyes the decrepit, the halt, the sore, the lame, the wounded carried into the sanctuary and depart therefrom, after kissing the holy lelic, cured and whole. Many are the scenes here witnessed of the despairing filled with renewed hope and the feeble and faint glad again with strength and health. Countless are the anecdotes of the hopelessly blind and lame returning to their friends with sight and firm limbs, leaving behind them their bandages and crutches. Incre- dulity vanishes before such evidence, and the sceptic leaves the shrine of Ste. Anne with conviction deeply settled in his soul. "Within the last two or three years pilgrim par- ties have been made up in diff*erent parts of the province, and arrive in Quebec, either by train or steamboat, and then proceed by the regular boats to Ste- Anne, where they pass* the day and return in the evening. Some of these pilgrims prefer the road, and either hire vehicles or, drive down in the omnibuses, of which there are two, or three, competing lines. Within three miles of the village are the Falls of Ste-Anne, which consist of seven cascades, the waters of one pass through a chasm which can be leaped by those of strong nerves and sinews, but powerful as Ste- Anno is, and devoted as she is to miracles, it is doubtfal whether even she could save the unfortunate who should miss his leap and be plunged into this chasm. The fishing above and below the Falls is verv good for salmon and trout, and the scenery of that wild description generally character! o of the Laurentian Bange. — 61 — ISLAND OF ORLEANS. The Island of Orleans, or the Isle de Bacchus, as it was at first called, or Minego by fhe Indians, or Isle des Sorcieres by the credulous, is reached by ferry from Quebec, as soon as navi- gation opens, and is a favorite Summer retreat of Quebecers. Its history is replete with stirring events. Wolfe took possession of it in 1^69, and his troops ransacked it from end to end. The villages of St-Pierte, Ste- Famille, 8t-Jean, St- Laurent, St. Franfois and St. Fereol are all flour- ishing, and their churches date from the • old times, or have been replaced by modern edifices. A steamer called the " Orleans *' runs daily between Quebec and the Island for the conve- nience of strangers. The views of Quebec and the Falls, in fact of all the surroundings, are very fine, while the delightful walks and drives through the woods and along the beach are a constant source of pleasure. 1^! CHARLESBOUEG. Leaving Dorchester Bridge by the left, the first place of interest is Ringfield, the residence '^f Mr. Parke, not far from which Jacques Cartier wintered with his three vessels, ** La G-rande Fermine," " La Petite Hermine," and " L'^^mfi- nllon," from 16th September, 1636, until 6th May, 1636, and which place he named St Oroix, having erected in the vicinity a high cross as a . — 52 — sign of possession by the King of France, a painting of which is to be seen in the picture gallery of the Laval University. A few years ago, some remains of Jacques Cartier's vessels were found, and at the present day are easily discernible the mounds and earthworks thrown up by the little army of brave adventurers. About two miles from the Bridge is the G-ros Pin Cemetery, set apart in 184*7 for the immi- grants and others who died in the hospitals, of fever and other contagious diseases. At the distance of four miles, on the same road, is the beautiful village of Charlesbourg, in whose centre is the parish church. At the time of the siege, Charlesbourg was the refuge of the priests, ladies and non-com- batants of the city, of the Island of Orleans and the different villages of the North Shore, whose houses had been pillaged, and whose substance had been destroyed. A convent, erected by the late Mr. Muir, for- merly Clerk of the House of Assembly, is near Charlesbourg, where instruction is given to young children. CHATEAU BIGOT. To the east of Charlesbourg, at a distance of about four miles, is Chateau Bigot, or Beau- manoir, as it is sometimes called, or otherwise The Hermitage ; the romantic history of which is somewhat as follows : — At the foot of La Montague des Ormes are the — 53 ruins of Chateau Bigot, ruins whicli can now but iaintly give an idea of what the original building was, of its grandeur, of its extent, of its secret passages, or its form. Two gables and a centre wall, or rather the remnants of them, are visible, and from the fact of there being a sort of clear- ance, now partly overgrown, we may presume that there was a garden. Ensconsed in the midst of a forest on one of the slopes of the Laurentides are these relics of the past and one cannot but be impressed with deep melancholy as his eyes rest upon this deserted spot and his fancy re- peoples the shattered halls and chambers with the gildyand guilty throngs which once crowded them. History has given some few indistinct data, and imagination has done the rest for this story of the paat. The Intendant Bigot, whose profligacy and extravagance were unlimited, and whose rapa- city supplied his requirements, constructed this chateau in the wilds of the mountains, and hither, with companions as graceless as himself, he was wont to adjourn to indulge in every ex- cess of dissipation. The Intendant was a man fond of field sports, and the chateau was the head-quarters of his hunting expeditions. It is said that on one of these he lost his way, and met a young Algonquin squaw of singular beau- ty, who led him to the chateau, and being induced to enter its walls, its strong doors were closed against her egress, and she remained there a pri- soner either to love or to fate.But the Intendant was a man of mark in the colony, a man to satisfy the longings of any ambitious girl who might wish for power, and such a one there was in the city of — 64 — Quebec, who was determined to have the In- tendant as her lord, that she, as his wife, might rule in New France, and punish those who had slighted her. Such a one, it is said by Mr. Kirby, in his historical romance, " The Golden Dog", was Angelique.Des Meloises ; and she had heard of the Indian maid at Beaumanoir. Murder is a trifle to such natures as hers, wholly absorbed by ambition ; and one night a* piercing cry was heard echoing through the halls and corridors of Beau- manoir, and Caroline, the unhappy Algonquin, was found stabbed f«!hd dead. Not long since was to be seen her gravestone in a vault of Beau- manoir, with but the letter C engraved thereon. It is said that the unhappy Caroline was not of full Indian race, but that her father, by marriage, was an officer of high rank in the army of France* Such is the story, not the first nor the last, con- nected with this place, which has been replete with guilt and caused much sorrow. Mr. Amedee Papineau and Mr. Marmette, in his romance " L'Intendant Bigot," have given sketches of the tale. Ascending the hill, in rear of the ruins of the Chateau, the visitor will be recompensed by a magnificent view. To the West is the valley of the St. Charles, to the South the city of Quebec and the town of Levis and to the East the Island of Orleans, the villages of Beauport, I'Ange Grar- dien, Chateau Richer, St. Anne, and the River St. Lawrence, for the distance of nearly one hundred miles, presenting a panorama of incomparable beauty. — 55 — LAKE BEAUPOKT. Continuing along the Charlesbourg highway, after leaving the village, for about four miles, we turn into a less macadamized, but much more de- lightful, road. The sweet smell of the woods is a welcome, the song of birds hastens you on, and the wild, uncultured country charms you, till you feel in an ecstasy with the whole scene : when suddenly you arrive at an opening in the forest, and a fairy lake, surrounded by high raoun tains, appears before you, and ere your wonder has had perfect consciousness you are driven up to the Lake Beauport Hotel, a country house with a ve- randah in front, and gardens of flowers and kit- chen vegetables in rear, where fishing rods lean lazily against the gable, and baskets of speckled trout, wrapped carefully in cooling leaves, are placed in shady nooks, and trim country lasses come to relieve you of wraps and impedimenta ; and the glorious lake shines before you like a silver shield, and you imagine that fairy boats are glid- ing on its bosom : but they simply contain happy people like yourself who have come out to enjoy this sans souci in the wood, this nepenthe among the mountains, this dolcefar niente on the bosom of a lake where the flies never bite, the fish ever rise, and little black-eyed g"awi'.ws addle you around in canoes just for a song. Go out with your rod, look at the towering mountains, and the woodland nooks and shady little coves, where trout jump about like sprites, and come back with a basket, ful, and have your dinner at the cottage hotel with wild strawberries and cream ; and then re- I ss; — 66 — turn to town and say what you think of Lake Beauport. LORETTE. The Indian village of Lorette is nine miles from town, and can be reached by the Charles- bourg road, turning off to the left at the village of Charlesbourg, or by the Little Eiver road, which divides at Scott's Bridge, one branch going by the north and the other by the south side of the Eiver St. Charles, or the Cabir Coubat of the olden time, both rejoining at the distance of about three miles. On the south branch is the French Catholic Cemetery, and beyond it the St. Charles racecourse. Lorette is situated on a hill, down which rushes the Eiver St. Charles, for- ming in the centre of the village the charmingly beautiful Falls of Lorette. A walk has been made, in a highly artistic manner, through the most striking parts of the vicinity, so that all the beauties of these Falls can be admired. It has more the character of a cascade, and there are delightful pieces of scenery above and below, and the river itself is a wild torrent, from which at one time salmon were taken. In the eastern part of the village reside the remnants of the once powerful Huron tribe, now either coalesced with the French, or rapidly disappearing. A walk through this village brings the young savages out by scores, the youthful chiefs desiring to shoot for coppers and the forest maidens offering tobacco pouches, knife sheaths and all — 57- sorts of Indian work ; some of which are very beautiful, and if bargained for properly can be had at a cheap rate, for they always ask high prices, but take their real value. On a Sunday it would be difficult to tell a squaw from a French-Canadian, were it not for the dark eyes, olive complexion and straight hair. The Minnehahas of to-day love their silks and satins and last fashions as well as any demoiselle from the city. Their houses are cons- tructed in modern style and furnished neatly. To the North of the village, passing through the Indian portion, you proceed to wnat is called the Aqueduct. It is the reservoir from which the City of Quebec is supplied with water. Take a canoe and paddle up this fairy river, for it is full of lovely spots where water sprites and naiads would delight to dwell. Under arches of drooping boughs you glide, and .smothered with the delicious aroma of pine and j&r trees, your ears ringing with the songs of birds, you press ever forward to see if there is no end to the enchantment, and, if a lover of the rod, you whip up the stream and hook the golden trout from the surface. Near by is Castorville, once a dam of beavers, the seat of the Hon Mr. Panet, a veritable paradise in the primeval forest, the perfect ideal of a picnic ground, where in the heat of Summer, under the shade of giant trees, we may " recline like gods together, forgetful of mankind. " A paddle up the stream will bring you to Lake St-Charles. fe — 68— • LAKE ST-CHARLES. is another favorite resort of the citizens of Quebec, and is situated about twelve miles distant, and where there is a good hotel and boats can be had for a row on the Lake, which is about six miles long.It has not the beauty of Lake Beauport. Its shores are not so bold, but there is a quiet, pleasant feeling in paddling about Lake St-Charles. It has a more contented, more home-like look than the exciting charms of the other. LAKE CALVAIRE. 1 "» ox Lake St-Augustin, is about twelve miles from Quebec, to the north of Cap Rouge. On one side of it stretch to the water's edge cultivated fields and pastures with browsing cattle ; on the other the wild bush. The Lake is not renowned for its fishing, as no trout are to be caught in it, and it has an unenviable reputation among bathers, whom it invariably attacks with cramps. It is a very beautiful sheet of water but full of weeds. In the Fall there are snipe, woodcock and par- tridge to be bagged in the vicinity, and this is enough to atone for its other deficiencies. St. Augustin church is near by and worth a visit. — 69 — ;,THE GRANDE ALLEE AND ST. FOY ROADS AND PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. There is no more beautiful or interesting drive than that out by the G-rande Allee and in by the St Foy road. On leaving where the St Louis Grate once stood, the visitor will notice the buildings, already mentioned — the Quebec Skat- ing Rink, the Departmental Buildings, the Drill Shed, the Martello Towers, the Church of En- gland Female Orphan Asylum, Ladies' Protestant Home, Quebec Observatory and St. Bridget's Asylum, and on passing the latter place the visi- tor will be upon the ground whereon the centre of the French line of battle stood, the left wing extending towards the St. Lawrence and the right to the St. Charles valley, down to which they retreated after the defeat. After passing the Toll Gate for about a hundred yards, the visitor is upon the ground occupied by the English centre, the left wing extending toward>% the St. Charles and the right towards the St Lawrence. A monument is erected to the memory of Wolfe on the spot where he fell, a handsome pillar of granite, surmounted by a helmet and shield, and bearing the following inscription : *• This pillar was erected by the British army in Canada, A. D., 1849. His EicelltDcy Lieutenant-General Sir Benjamin d'Urbau being commander of the forces, to replace that erected by Governor- General Lord Aylmer, in 1832, which was broken and defaced and is deposited beneath. The whole is surrounded by a neat iron railing. t If.. t m — 60 — SPENCER WOOD. At the turn of the road is Spencer Wood, the residence formerly of the Grovernor-General of Canada, and now that of the Lieutenant-Grover- nor of the Province of Quebec. It is a beautiful structure, and its paintings, statuary, vineries, g^reenhouses, gardens and shaded lawns are une- qualled in the Province. The grounds are eighty acres in extent, and reach the summit of the pre- cipice overlooking "Wolfe's Cove, through which runs the little stream St. Denis, by whose ravine "Wolfe reached the heights. At different times resided here the Prince of Wales, Prince Alfred and Prince Arthur. WOODFIELD CE]!HETERY. Beyond Spencer Wood is the Irish Catholic Cemetery, lately purchased for that purpose from the Messrs. Gibb. It is a splendid property of about 80 acres, in the highest state of cultivation, and beautified by avenues, glades, and vales, shady nooks and perfumed woods, a fit home for those who take the last quiet sleep of death. Mount Hermon Cemetery. Still further on is Mount Hermon Cemetery, the Protestant burial ground. This has been es- tablished many years, and in it are very fine monuments of exquisite workmanship by Quebec artists, and some from the United States, and even England. On one spot there are the graves of over two hundred immigrants who perished serte( in rul lege] sister nualll stonel carel( whe] burni Dej churc ley si — 61 — k I e s i ic m. of n, :or es- ine bee Lnd ves tied by the burning of the steamer ** Montreal." They had but arrived from the old country, and on the threshold of the new met with the most frighful of deaths. The village opposite these cemeteries is Berger- ville. The Church of St. Columba and the Convent of Jesus Marie stand on the heights above Sil- lery, and on the beach below is erected a small chapel. Some years ago the remains of the Jesuit priest Emmanuel Masse were found in the cave beneath Sillery, and a monument to his memory was erected. It is twenty feet high, and has four marble tablets with inscriptions. On this spot Emmanuel Masse was buried in 1646, and a church was erected there by the Commander of Sillery in 1611. All along the G-rande Allee the views of the St. Lawrence, the heights of LctIs and the Lauren- tian Range, are captivating, and turns in the road exhibit most beautiful vistas. About five miles beyond Cap Eouge is the de- serted church of St. Augustin built iu 1648, now in rtiins on the beach, in reference to which is a legend that the devil, in the shape of a horse, as- sisted in the construction. This horsi^ was conti- nually kept bridled and employed in carting the stones of immense size, till one day a workman carelessly took oif his bridle to give him a drink, when he immediately disappeared in a cloud of burning sulphur. Descending by the road leading to the St. Foy church the extended view of the St. Charles val- ley strikes one with delight. The visitor may ki •.J«f i t^i mmmm 62 — \n continue the drive, if he so please, to Cap Eouge and turn then into the St. Foy road. Forty miles to the East and continuing till it end at Cap Tourmeut, forty miles to the West the ranges of mountains form a magnificent background to a variegated panorama of villages, churches, farm- houses, forest, river, stream, hill and cultivated plain, which never tire the eye. The valley of the St. Charles is the richest in the province, of which the visitor may judge for himself. Towards the end of Summer, acres of yellow fields stretch before the eye, and pastures teem with cattle. The river St. Charles is seen winding its intricate course through forest and field, losing itself finally in the G-reat St. Lawrence, and towards its mourh the populous suburbs of St Eoch are alive with their industries and manufactures. To the north of St. Foy road is the Belmont Catholic Cemetery, and near by is the Belmont Inebriate Asylum, once kept by Mr. Wakeham. The building was once occujpied by G-eneral Montgomery, as was also Holland House, near the city, the property of the late Judge Okill Stuart. At about one mile distant from the city is the monument erected by the St. Jean-Baptiste Society to the brave who fell at the battle of the Plains in 1760. The monument is of iron on a stone base, and surmounted by a statue of Bellona, the gift of Prince Napoleon. Four bronze cannons are placed at each corner of the pedestal. The monument bears the following inscription Aax braves de 1760. ErigS par la Soci6t6 St. Jean-Baptiste do Quebec, 1860. — 63 — On the right side are the arms of Enffland and the name of Murray, then governor of Quebec. On the left side is the name of Levis, vv^ho com- manded the French, and the arms of old France. On the opposite side is a has relief of Dumont's Mill and the arms of Canada. This monument was inaugurated with great ceremony on the 19th of October, 1862, by Lord Monck, then Governor- General of Canada, and an eloquent discourse was given on the occasion by the Hon. P. J. 0. Chauveau. POINT LEVIS. A visit to Levis is interesting. Not long since an encampment of Indians was located at the place now called St. Joseph de Levis, and citizens and strangers were then wont to make excursions to interview these dusky roamers. In rear of the town of Levis are coustructed three Forts, for the protection landwards of the posi- tion. They are of triangular formation, their bases facing the city and consisting simply of a wall, without any defence except the ditch, leav- ing it open to be battered by the guns of the Ci- tadel in the event of occupation by an enemy. The two other sides are strongly loopholed case- ments, protected by a glacis, and having loop- holed caponnieres at the angles to sweep the ditch and which are reached by subterraneau passages. The ditches all round the forts are twenty feet deep by about forty feet in width and which are crossed at only one point byadrawbridge, which is removed at will. Each fort contains at least one large well and has acpommodation for — 64 — about four hundred men. Number one, which is situated in rear of the Grand Trunk Station, is altogether built of stone, while the exterior fac- ings of the casements of numbers 2 and 3 are of brick. The magazines are two in number and are built to contain a Itirge quantity of powder. The present armament of each fort consists of but one pivot gun, a seven inch breach-loading Arm* strong, throwing a projectile of 120 lbs., but at very short notice the three forts could be comple- tely armed from the vast stores in the Citadel. These forts cost the English G-overnment about $1,000,000. In the lower portion ofthetown is the Intercolo- nial railway station; at what is called South Quebec is the station of the Grand Trunk Eailway, near which is the Victoria Hotel. The cattle sheds are within a short distance of the railway station and are very commodious and well conducted, and are located in Fort No. 1. A large graving dock has been built at St. Joseph de Levis and is worthy a visit. THE CHAUDIERE FALLS. At a short distance from South Quebec are the Chaudiere Falls, which may be reached either by train, steamer or cab. These Falls are somewhat similar to those of Lorette, on a larger scale, the depth being about one hundred and thirty feet. The visitor may, at the same time, chance to wit- ness the venturesome experiments of raftsmen on the saw-logs, which are tumbled over the Falls, and which collect in groups above the ra- pids in a locked state ; when it is imperative on m -65' m the men to loose them from the diffi ulty. Many a mishap has occurred in these endeavors, and it is often the value of a raftsman's life to break a jam on the Chaudiere River. Down the vallev of this river swarmed the- hardy volunteers under Arnold, but many had to succumb before they arrived at the mouth of the Ohaudiere, and many more had to regret that they ventured into such an undertaking. The Church of New Liverpool is famed for its frescoes and paintings, and in the scenery of Etchemin the visitor can find much that gratifies his eye. The romance of history is hovering around the whole of this neighborhood. SUMMER RESORTS LES EBOULEMENTS. is another Summer resort,also on the North Shore, at about seventy miles below Quebec. Earth- quakes are frequently experienced here, and the country is extremely hilly. Tadousac, the Saguenay, Murray Bay and Les Eboulements are reached by steamers, which leave Quebec three or four times a week. THE RIYEE JACQUES OARTIER. Proceeding by the Canadian Pacific Railway ,the 5 ^^1( — 66 — visitor reaches the beautiful River Jacques Car- iier, so famed for its salmon fishing. The scenery of this ri rer is charming, and since the construc- tion of the railway th'*, country is being ornament- ed by fine villas. The name of the village on the river is St. Jeanne de Neuville. At about twelve miles distant is the village of St. Ray- mond, on the River St. Anne, in which are shoals of trout. This village is reached by the Lake St. John Railway, since the opening of which many improvements have been made. At a short distance from St. Raymond is Lake St. Joseph, famous for its black bass and lunge Ash- ing. There are other lakes and rivers in the neigh- borhood, where excellent fishing can be had. On the road to Three Rivers are several flourishing villages, among which may bo mentioned St. Bazile, Portneuf. Cap Sante, Doschambault, Ste. Anne de la Perade, Baiiscan and Champlain. Byth of the feplenc and ii Ai s: many i commo man w use of THE SHAWENEQAN FALLS. At about thirty miles from Three Rivers, on the St. Maurice River, are the beautiful Falls of Sha- wenegan, reached by the Piles branch of the Ca- nadian Pacific Railway, and a visit to which will amply repay the tourist. They are over one hun- dred and twenty feet in height. Alonj villagef Anselm affordin rapidly is a wel snmmei fishing. \ ■■. LAKE ST. JOHN EAILWAY. By the Lake St. John Railway, the higher waters of the Jacques Cartier Riv cr are reached, where bplendid partridge and snipe shooting can be had, and in Winter caribou and moose hunting. ST. LEON SPRINGS. A^ six miles from Louiseville station are the KSt. jueon springs, the resort during Summer, of many from all parts of Canada and the States. A commodious hotel is kept by Mr. James R. Q-il- man who provides vehicles at the station for the use of travelers. QUEBEC CENTRAL RAILWAY. Along this line of railway are many delightful villages, among which may be mentioned St. Anselme, St. Marie, St G-eorge, and St. Joseph, affording charming Summer retreats, which are rapidly being taken advantage of. THE MATAPEDIA VALLEY is a well known resort of sportsmen, who, in the summer season, go there to participate in salmon fishing. A number of New- York gentlemen ■,«H £ d \:^ I i::- I; f 68 have purchased a large tract from the former proprietor, Mr. Daniel Fraser, and pass a few weeks there during the hot weather. Mr. Fraser has, however, retained a portion of hu property, and keeps a fine hotel for the lovers of sport. There are many other very pleasant resorts on the route of the Intercolonial railway, which are yearly becoming more popular. TADOUSAC. At the mouth of the Saguenay, 130 miles from Quebec, is the village of Tadousac, a favorite summer resort, and where Lord Dufferin, late G-overnor-Greneral of Canada, passed a great part of his time. Here also is the first church built in Canada. ^ Tadousac is not only a fine watering place, but has a history of the most interesting character. It was at one time the chief trading port of the French settlements and was the first missionary residence of Father Marquette. The ruins of the first church in Canada are still pointed out to the stranger. RIYER SAGUENAY. There Is probably nothing grander than a sail up the River Saguenay. On each side are the towering and precipitous cliffs, while beneath roll the dark waters of this mysterious river, whi cha] rive seen Bam plun ranc( Cape culai Made nityi one sj Ha!( 60 mi Chico or Ma on the Murra VAigh to esci bathi] of wati distanc IS nin( is FrasI — 69 — which partakes of a gloomy and almost hideous character. One might imagine himself on the river Styx, and when now and again a i^eal is seen to appear on the surface, one reverts to Dante's Inferno, and dreams that a lost soul is plunging in the dark river. The sombre appea- rance of the river is deepened by the frowning Capes Eternity and Trinity which rise perpendi- cularly to a dizzy height. A colossal statue of the Madonna is placed on the summit of Cape Eter- nity at whose base is erected a small chapel. No one should miss a sail on this wild stream. Ha ! Ha ! or G-rand Bay is a beautiful expanse of water, 60 miles from the mouth, and ten miles south of Chicoutimi. I'. • \i^J MURRAY BAY. or Malbaie, is about ninety miles from Quebec, on the north shore. There are three localities, Murray Bay proper, Pointe au Pic and Cap a I'Aigle, all centres of attraction to those who wish to escape the heat of Summer and enjoy salt water bathing. There are, in the vicinity, several sheets of water famed for their trout, and at an easy distance. RIVIERE QUELLE is ninety-two miles from Quebec. Near the wharf is Eraser's Hotel. It is about eight miles from -WVHV BmaaBtBOBsmmmmBm — •70 — tlie Railway station and has excellent accommoda- tion. The drives in the vicinity are interesting. At a short distance is KAMOURASKA, a delightful village, having hotels and houses to be lot during the season, lo suit the visitor. Every convenience can be had in the way of bathing, and the surrounding country is charming. RIVIERE DU LOUP, or Fraserville, is close to the railway station. At one time, it was the fashionable resort of plea- sure-seekers, but other places have put it in the shade. It is however, a pleasant village, and every accommodation can be had. At the distance of about six miles is CACOUNA, the Saratoga of Canada. About twenty years ago travelers were taken from the steamer in boats, and met while in the shallow water by hay carts and other nondescript vehicles, by which they gained the shore, and had to put up with such accommodation as they could find. Now a mag- nificent hotel, with all the modern improve- ments, adorns the centre of the village, while many minor ones and boarding houses are scatter- At villa^ resort! — n— ed far and near, and beautiful villas and elegant mansions are everywhere to be seen. The Oa- couna of old has disappeared, and a brand new one has taken its place. The beach is within easy walk of the village, and the bathing is un- surpassed, the water being of a more bearable temperature than that of the North Shore, where the cold is penetrating. There are, besides, va- rious fishing grounds within a few miles, which handsomely reward the sportsman. TEOIS PISTOLES This is a delightfully situated village on the line of Railway at about 148 miles from Point Levis. The salt water bathing is fine and the surrounding country beautiful. RIMOUSKI is an incorporated town of about 1200 inhabi- tants and much resorted to as a summer retreat. It is situated about fifty-five miles below Riviere du Loup and contains many handsome buildings. METIS. At about ninety miles below Cacouna is the village of Metis, rapidly becoming a fashionable resort. .',ti I.i.'J; ..A — '72- T FISHING. . In the vicinity of Quebec are many lakes well known among the followers of Isaac Walton, where trout, pike, lunge and white fish may be caught : among which may be mentioned, lakes Berryman, Beauport, St. Charles, St. Joseph, Sept lies. Snow Lake, Jacques Cartier, St. Joachim, Fairy and Daker's Lake, all within an easy dis- tance of the city, excepting Lakes Snow and Jacques Cartier. For those fond of the gun, the beaches qf Cha- teau Eicher and St. Anne afford excellent jsport for snipe, while throughout Stoneham and Lo-" rette, and Cap Rouge, partridge, and woodcock abound. In the North are found caribou in the Winter and bears are often met with in the same localities, while lynx are frequent visitors in the neighborhood of the citv. GOVEENMENT DEPARTMENTS. Lieutenant-Governor'' s office — Departmental Bnild- . ings, South "Wing, 1st stairs. Grande AUee. Agriculture and public works — Simeon Lesage, as- sistant commissioner. 1st flat Soath Wing, 64 Grande Allee. Auditor^ S' office — Gaspard Drolet, provincial audi- tor. 1st flat North and West Wing, 141 St. Augustin and St. Julia Streets. Cadastre office — Pierre L. Morin, geometer. 3rd flat West Wing, 141 St. Augustin. Crown lands — Eugene E. Tache, assistant commis- sioner 2nd and 3rd flats West Wing, 141 St. Augustin. Executive council — Gustave Grenier, clerk, ^nd flat South Wing, 64 Grande AUee. Government Railway office — Edward Moreau, secre- tary. 1st flat West Wing, 141 St. Augustin. Government School of Navigation — William C. Sea- ton, professor. 3rd flat South Wiug, 64 Grande Allee. Lata officers of the croum — Joseph A. Defoy, assis- tant, 2nd flat West Wing, 141 St Augustin. Legislative Assembly. — Louis Delorme, clerk oi' the house, Parliament buildings. Legislative council. — George B. DeBourcherville, clerk, Parliament buildings. Library of Parliament. — Pamphilo LeMay, libra- rian. Parliament buildings. Provincial registrar-^. C. Langelier, deputy. 3rd flat South Wing, 64 Grande Allee. Provincial secretary. — Phillipe J. Jolicceur, assis- tant secretary. 2nd flat West Wing, 141 St. Augustin. 1 ill'! -•74- Fublic instruction — Honorable Ged6on Ouimet, superintendent. 2nd and 8rd flats, North Wing, St. Julia. Queen* s printer office. — Charles F. Langlois, Queen's printer. 3rd flat South "Wing, Grande A116e. IVeasurer — Henry T. Machin, assistant provincial treasurer, Ist flat North & "West Wings, 411 St. Augusti. . and Julia. Custom House - - - - Custom House Wharf Weights and Measures — St. Anne Street. Supervisor of Cullers' Office Sault-au-Matelot St. Quebec Exchange Arthur Street. Quebec Harbour Commissioners, 122 Dalhousie St. Government Immigration Office, Champlain St. Marine and fisheries. — ^John U. Gregory, agent. 101-103 Champlain. Oret BANKS. Bank of British North America (Branch), 124 Peter Street. Bank of Montreal (Branch), corner of Peter and Arthur Streets. Banqu ^19 '%P /MS) 6 i — •76-- TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM QUEBEC. MILES. Ancienne Lorette, from French Church 8 Plains of Abraham : IJ Spencer Wood 2J Mount Hermon Cemetery 3J Col. Eh odes' Farm 3f Cap Rouge, by St. Foy Road , 8| St. Louis 8J St Foy Church 5i Drive round by St. Louis and St. Foy Roads 161 Lake Calraire lOJ Lorette and Falls lOJ Lake St. Charles ISJ Lake Beauport 15J Chateau Bigot, or the Hermitage 8 Montmorency Falls and Natural Steps 8J— 9J L'Ange Grardien ^.... 11 Chateau Richer .V -, 16 St. Anne, by boat 20 road 25 Falls of St Aune 28 Island of Orleans 4 The Fort of Levis, No. 1, from a. T. R. Station, Levis The Fort of Levis, No. 3, from No. 1, about 2 Chaudiere Falls, by rail from G-. T. R 8 Pont Rouge, Jacques Cartier River, by rail. 26 Shawenegan Falls, Three Rivers' road ^8 Three Rivers, by boat or rail ; ^S\ St. Leon Springs 102 Montreal, by boat 169 — 11-^ Les Eboulemens ^73 Murray Bay 85 Tadousao, boat , 133 Riviere Quelle, boat *75 Kamouraska, boat 88 Riviere dii loup, boat 110 Cacouna, boat 116 Metis, boat 208 Father Point 185 a. T. R. Ferry 1 Levis Ferry , | Riviere du Loup by rail 119 TARIFF FOR CARTEK Tariff for Hackney Car'riages.—One Ho:^SE Vehicles. I GALECHE. From any place to any other place within the City limits :— 1 person, 25 cts.; 2 persons, 40 cts. If to return, add 50 per cent, to the above rates. When the drive exceeds the hour, hour rates to be charged. By the hour, for the first hour, 1 person, 50 cts.; 2 persons, 60 cts.; for each additional hour, 1 person, 40 cts., 2 persons, 50 cts. mmm ■F -•78 — WAGGON. From any place to any other plac3 within the City limits : — 1 or 2 persons, 50 cts.; 3 or 4 per- sons, t5 cts. If to return, add 50 per cent, to the above rates. When the drive exceeds the hour, hour rates to be charged. By the hour, for the first hour : — 1 or 2 persons, *75 cts.. 3 or 4 persons, $1 ; for each additional hour : 1 or 2 persons, 50 cts.; 3 or 4 persons, ^5 cts. TWO-HOESE VEHICLES. From any place to any other place within the City limits : — 1 or 2 persons, $1 ; 3 or 4 persons, $1.50. If to return, add 60 per cent, to the above rates. If the drive exceeds the hour, hour rates to be charged. By the hour, for the first hour : — 1 or 2 per- sons, $1 ; 3 or 4 persons, $1.50 ; each additional hour : 1 or 2 persons, ^75 cts ; 3 or 4 persons, $1. Provided always that the rate per day of 24 hours will not exceed $10 : $5 for caleche, $^.50 for waggon, or $10 for a two-horse vehicle. Fractions of hours to be charged at pro rata hour rates, but not less than one quarter of an hour shall be charged when the time exceeds the hour. Fifty per cent, to be added to the tariff rates from midnight to ^7 A. M. The tariff by the hour shall be applied to all drives extending beyond the City limits when the engagement is commenced and concluded "within the city. — 79- BAGGAaE. For each trunk or box carried in any vehicle. 6 cts ; but no charge shall be made for travelling bags^ or valises which passengers can carry by 80 — WINTER SCENES. AN ICE BRIDaE. It was in January, 18*77, when, with a large crowd of people, I stood upon the Durham Ter- race , of the city of Quebec, and looked down upon thii river St. Lawrence. The thermometer had that morning marked forty degrees below zero, and all around there was nothing but dazzling snow, covering city, plain, and mountain alike, while from the basin of the great river rose a mist which wholly concealed its bleak waters from view "What could induce human beings in such an extreme atmosphere to pace up and down the exposed promenade, which in Summer com- mands a view unrivalled in the whole world ? The formation of the ice-bridge was momentarily expected, the ferry steamers, whose traihc would be put a stop to by the ice-bridge, had been pre- vented from leaving their wharfs, under penalty ot heavy fines and being fired into, l'^ order of the authorities, were they io attempt .o break it. Facing the bitter cold, all looked down upon the hidden stream, vigorously they walked the snow clad terrace, when suddenly a cry was heard, " It is taken ;" instantly all rushed to the railing and anxiously peered down upon the waters; slow- ly the mist arose and in its place appeared a smooth surface of dark blue ice, extending far down the river to Indian Point and up as far as the eye could reach. Under the cloud of mist Nature had don^ the work, and in a few minutes had improvised a bridge, out of the power |>f -81 man to construct, a glorious crystal bridge, ' as wonderful as it was beautiful. The opposite shore, which, up to within a few minutes, ^ was almost unattainable, had been as it were, in a moment of time, brought into a few minutes communication. Minute by minute the bridge was strengthening, the intensity of the cold thickened the ice, and. an hour afterwards, a boy in a sleigh, drawn by a dog, ventured on its sur- face. As they progressed towards the opposite shore, a sound as of distant thunder rose from the river, for the ice was as a sounding board ; and even when the sleigh became but a speck, the rumbling sound continued, reverberating between the opposite highlands ; then followed, as it seemed to me, foolhardy skaters, who, venturing on the brittle surface sped on in s-yeeping cir- cles, hither and thither ; then hundreds followed, and then the bridge presented the view of coun- tless men luxuriating in the enjoyment of skat- ing on virgin ice. It was barely more than an inch in thickness, and it appeared mad temerity to trust such fragility, but still the crowd increas- ed and its delirium grew wilder. Every moment, I knew added to th§ general safety, but each one had to keep separate from all others, and it was noticed, that when three or four approachad the same locality, the india-rubber-like surface sank as if it were ready to engulf the reckless indivi- duals. On the wharfs and quays along the river side, were collected hundreds of on-lookers and I descended after my bird's-eye view to have a closer inspection. Over the edge of a wharf was suspended a ladder, from the foot of which were planks laid on the ice, and by them the skaters 6 ■■w I I : — 82 — gained access to the bridge ; a continuous row of people ventured down, shod with skates and were soon wheeling over the glassy surface. I watched one after another to see if there were any feeling of bravado in their actions, but there was none except the simple one of anxiety to join the river revel. Suddenly there was a tremor in the shin- ing mass, and on shore and on bridge a paralysis seemed to strike all ; the ice was moving. Ins- tantly the skaters rushed towards the shore, ra- pidly they crossed the planks and scaled the lad- ders, many were immersed in the death-cold waters, but all save one escaped a watery grave ; he was carried home to a disconsolate widow and helpless orphans. The bridge was broken up and a human being was ushered into eternity. The morning suij rose next day clear and bright and shed its rays upon a night-formed bridge as clear and smooth as anv mirror : the first had descend- ed with the falling tide but the works of Nature are rapidly carried out, and in its place another spanned the broad St. Lawrence. Even now upon its bosom the venturesome skaters, careless of yesterday's grief, rushed wildly on the sur- face, and ice-boats in scores swept across it with the rapidity of racehorses, their white sails re- flecting back the sun's rays as the wings of sea gulls. It was a gala festival and man and woman revelled in the rare enjoyment. From the city's height it was a panorama, a kaleidoscopic view of changing forms of boats, of men, of vehicles. A bond of harmony and conviviality had been made between the old city of Quebec, Foint Levis, the Island of Orleans, Beauport, and other villa- ger, ai^ representatives from each place met hi — 88 — -'s in fs, la- unison on the river plain, from which, midst the sound of ever tinkling sleigh bells, rose the strains of music and the shouts and laughter of men and women. It was a mirage, for the ice bridge was as a glass and everything on its sur- face had its reflection, and the steep cliffs of Levis threw their shadows on the ice as on a peaceful lake. " "We," that is, myself and two friends, were standing on the Durham Terrace, looking down upon this unique and exciting picture, and were carried away with enthusiasm and a desire to join the glorious carnival. Quickly we provid- ed ourselves with skates and descended to the Lower Town, and soon found ourselves upon the smooth ica. Near by was an ice boat, waiting to be chartered for a voyage to any part of the sur- rounding shores, so we closed a bargain with the master and stepped into the cozy cabin whose roof was the cloudless sky. Voluminous buffalo robes were wrapped around us and we felt as comfortable as though we sat before a parlor fire. Our faces alone could tell how cold was the wes- terly breeze, which soon carried our vessel, with the flight of a bird, over the shining surface. Meeting small boats was a flash of lightning, and skaters and horses were distanced by us in every passing moment. Rapidly we passed up the river ; on one side of us were the frowning bat- tlements and citadel of Quebec, while, on the other, were the higher heights of Levis ; anon we were beneath the plains of Abraham ; rushing past the now desolate timber coves which in Summer are crowded with vessels, and which now showed, at the foot of the cliff, the long line of th3 white-washed dwellings of the hard-work- ,..( — 84 ing lumbermen. On the one side were the chur- ches of St. Colomba de Sillery, and St. Augus- tin, and on the other of St. Nicolas, and then the Falls of the Chaudiere. "We had swept up- wards for over ten miles, when with a slight twist of the tiller, our boat wheeled round with marvellous velocity, and we were on the home stretch. Again we passed villages, churches, and coves, and now and then a winter frozen in ves- sel ; then Quebec and Levis rose above our heads, and our bow pointed to where the Montmorency Falls threw their vapory column high into the rarified atmosphere ; already the cone had begun to form and we could see dark objects as- cending and descending its slippery sides. On- ward we swept past the villages of Beauport, L' Ange G-ardien, and Chateau Eicher, when again we turned and doubling Le Bout de Lisle d'Or- leans, we stretched over towards the village of St Joseph de Levis and skirted along the south shore of the St. Lawrence, till we struck across to our starting point, after a wild ride of forty miles, accomplished with the speed of a mail train. Our limbs were a little stiff, and we put on our skates to revive the circulation of the blood. No sooner had the steel touched the clear brittle ice than we felt the freedom of a liberated eagle and we swiftly glided over the silvery surface, seem- ing hardly to touch the ice, but rather to be carri- ed through the air. Hundreds of skaters were madly rushing hither and thither, ice-boats with their white sails were sweeping upwards and downwards, and horses, as if in delirium, were galloping in every direction. I remained with wv lady friend, while her husband sped onwards ; — 86 — ir •e n d •e we followed him at a distance, for we were una- ble to keep up with his rapid movements. The bride of a few months glided joyfully by my side, and I could see her i)roudly watching the move- ments of her husband, as he skilfully gyrated and executed difficult figures on the keen ice — her loving eyes did not lose sight of him for a moment, and in human sympathy I rejoiced in her seemingly unalloyed happiness, and the glad expression in her brown eyes showed me that love and life were to her synonymous. As I watched hex I was startled by her sudden look of intense horror. I looked in the direction and saw nothing but the crowd of skaters. In a moment however, there was a rush among them to a cen- tral spot and loud cries, but my attention was taken away from them by a piercing shriek from the woman by my side. I had just time to pre- vent her from falling and was holding her in my arms when I chanced to look at the ice beneath us, and there, under its cruel surface, in the cold, cold water, swept down by the rushing tide, was the struggling form of her husband, vainly clutch- ing and grasping to break through the icy fetters. As he passed beneath us, he gave one despairing look upwards and was then swept away for ever from our sight. Fortunately his young bride had fainted and was mercifully spared that des- pairing anguished look, which shall never be forgotten by me through life's longest day. I conveyed to her home the young widow bride, who that day had been so happy, so loving, so loved, who that night lay on her couch, and for many a succeeding day and night, the helpless — w— prey of brain fever and from whieh couch she rose bereft of reason, to become the inmate of an asylum. ^ct ^ I ■ »' i'$