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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film* A partir de I'angle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 1.0 I.I 1.25 m 2.8 146 36 40 m u 1.4 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.6 MICROCOPY RESOLUTION TEST CHART NATIONAL BUREAU OF STANDARDS STANDARD REFERENCE MATERIAL 1010a (ANSI and ISO TEST CHART No. 2) [il[^[!30[2][3[3Eii[i]g] BY H. BEDFORD- JONES * .. <11m Man { «k \^ THE STORY OF P ISIOK AN FtlUAhJ IJQlAFISTRANO B Y H. BEDFORD-JONES Santa Barbara 'TKirti^ copies Kand-printed lt>j> tne Auft\or & distributed privatel^^ A man x}*t fanwui according a> ha kad liftad up axat upon iha ihick treM . But noV riter Kas endeavored herein to ex- press more than bare fact* •. to expresf something of the inner Vision of this place -• something of the spirituality yet lingering upon the rain-streaked walls and the crumbling arches. ^This 'Jolume is but ore man's -Viewpoint . Its on\^ ambition is an ir*erpretation of the strange inJividualit^ ich clings to these ruins toda]? . n\\e "Man" of tl-o book has no know- ledge of ''i: writin, , nor would he per- haps appro .'rf the introduction of personal elements -- but what matter? His labor has put beauty' and utili^? in the stead of ruin and neglect; the world owes him a meed of appreciation . He desires it not , yet it will come to him as inevitably? as will a Higher appreciation . To him I owe thinks for assistance and information , nor could I find fitter dedi- cation than to ascribe and inscribe this Volume to St . John O'Sullivan Genio Loci I: Q O N T E N T S I THE ADOBE II THE K STOWE III THE HIGH BELLS IV THE COYOTE V THE MAN ©IhE [glDOBE 8 I' From the ear La- suen buried tKe two mission bells and fied. II 12 In the following year came Padre Serra the Fundator in person, and re- estaWisKed tKe work. He chose a ne^J and better site, between the Trabuco and San Juan creeks, within sight of the sea ; and consecrated this founda- tion November i , 1776 . 'Then he departed and the work was taken up b^ his helpers — Padres Mugartegui am d A murno . * HO monaster)) was this place, no secludt^ spot for meditation and repose; but a school of industrial and manual training where the Indians were taught to knov? God, and to serve Him in love. Here was preached the mysterp of service -- to borrow honest Will Comfort's phrase; the mysten? of creative labor, of honest? in one's han- diwork. TKe first result of this was the adobe . Adobe bricks are excellent things in themselves, but the^) must be pro- tected from the rains. In a countr? where ever? scrap of material must be formed from the ra^ ear^h-givings , such protection means labor. The padres IS labored; tlieir mission was built from adobe and tiles, to>MKide and mortar, reeds and boulders . In tKe Canada del Omo , "little canon of tke oven," just nor4i of the mission ruins, tKe remains of the kilns maj) still be seen. Here were made tiles of man>> sKapes, but all of the same tender red , Some were square , and these were used to floor the corridors; some were oblong , and these went to build the columns and arches , and to roof them ; some were regular roofing tiles , curved and fitted to run water. All ma;p be seen in service to this dap . E F O R E the actual building , all things had to be shown to the builders . ^These neophytes , as the In- dian converts were termed , learned to use carts and oxen . to make tiles , to transform into cement and mortar the limestone, so laboriously) fetched twelve miles over the hills . Meantime , food had to be won from the carfh and the necessities of ^ifc provided . Open ditches and tiled ! 14 conduits were run from the streams, forming an extensive irrigation system. Gardens, orcKards, and vineyards were laid out and the neopKytes were sKown hovJ to care for tKem. EacK da:? the advantages of tKis site cKosen h^ ^r«9 Serra became more evident. Gradually! tKe adobe walls went up; and, rising, tKej? enclosed work- sKops. NeopKyte carpenters Kewed out ceiling-rafte.. of sycamore beams , brought from tKe Kills twen^? miles awa^ , and carved tKe quaintlj^ mortised door and windoBJ frames, ^e smitK^^ produced nails, locks, Kinges and tools. Less skilled workers brougKt tules , reeds from tKe creek-beds, and cut up rawKide. Tules were laid upon tKe rafters, bound down and made fast wi{K rawKide, and plastered over. In tKis fasKion were made ceilings. Da3> bj) da9 tKe dried adobes took KigKer form, frmer sKape; tKe walls were from two to seven feet tKick . TKe arcKes rose around a patio of an acre in area, eacK side b-ing about two Kundred feet in leng4i, but no two sides being exactly' parallel. Separated from tKe arcKes Irp a »5 roofc the store- houses , school, and at the end , tho quarters and arched bell of the laz^ garrison . Vmj>- - o«_ irds and gardens flourished ' 1^ • ^Thousands of cattle roamed th'. ills, and the San Juan horses were famcu? in the land .' HThe mission had outlying rancherias , settle- ments of San Ju.inefios who sa^g? to the crops and cattle •- and who doubled the talents in their keeping . No more cla>> Lricks \aS baking in the sun . ||r\| U R I N G those twentp years of BSm service and grow^ , a -Oision nan been in the forming . AH that could be done wifli adcbe, had been done. Massive wells, archef. all manner of structures — these were finished . But already the padres had begun to look ahead . Not theirs was the abili^ to rest content wi{h having ■ Appendix A »7 clone enough . Men never do enough for God . Tweii^ miles awajl in the moun- tains were sycamores . Near the Mision Vieja, Fra]? Lasuen's old foundation sjx mil?8 up »he canon , was a fne store of sandstone. Twelve miles distant was limestone. At the ocean shore were boulders and sand . Wi4\ the close of the year 1796, the padres sn^v? their vision clearly) . ^Thej' began to make diamond shaped tiles , and sent for a stone-mason . * ii Out of fixe quarr^ cut and laid , Brovln Kands brought me , unafraid ; Carved me 'vJiiK sj^mboU that Had no name , Set me to Hold a KigK arcK-frame . Vanished are 4ie^ x^iAi all their race Yet here d'Well I in m;p given place ; Washed of Aie rain, burnt of the sun, Waiting vJith God till the years be done . ;^^ THE KEYSTONE * fol ! O D has given us weal^i • and workmen and eager Hearts. Ncb? let us put our talents to account in His service ! " In this spirit the two mission fa- thers obtained their stone-mason and set to work on a nine-years* contract wi4i God . On Februarj? 2 , 1797 , the task was begun. Hlxis was the Vision a great church all of stone, the grand- est house of worship in the Califomias . Some of the Baja California churches were marvelous things, carven and dighted wi4\ precious gifts; but thej? were small. OThis was to be large, beautiful, splendid in its solemnity and 91 22 grandeur . ^Thep laid it out in tKe form of a Latin cross, 175 hS 80 feet, ^e walls v?ere to be tv?o yards thick, all of stone and cement; tKe roof was to be formed hS se-Oen bo-Oedas, or domes; the entire building was to be one solid mass of pure masonr? . So the work began. E E K after week , mon^i after monfli , 0) gad year after :?ear , the purpled hills looked down upon moving fles of men, women and children . Carretas , or ox-carts of two wheels , formed a constant line between the nei)? mission and the Mision Vieja , where \aS the sandstone quarries; but not carretas alone. Hhe San Juanenos carried stones on their heads; e^en the children came bearing stones — twelve miles back and for^ , daj^ after dap and year after year . Although the neophytes were numbered b>> the hundreds , the walls were six feet thick . In the workshops was redoubled toil and labor. TKe weavers, oil and wine makers , cordwainers , clothiers and candle- 23 fashioners must continue work as usual . All regular business must go on, for the mission was self-supporting. Out in the sun stood the stone-mason wi4i Kis neophyte pupils, teaching these apprentices the myster? of the keystone, and the carding thereof. Hl^e keystones of the tiled arches had been tiles. No^ this arch-ke3? took on ner" meaning and importance . From the kilns came the tiies , dia- mond shaped , for the flooring of the ne^ church alone. Mon4» h-p mon^h uprose the walls , as endless processions wended in , some from the quarries , some from the ocean , othersome from the mountains or limestone cliffs. Concrete was mixed and laid. Slowly? the massive walls drev? nearer to heaven . NID the spirit of it all la>> in the keystones and lintels, the cornices H and capitals . Wi^ time , the apprentices became master masons ; beneath their hands the rough ashlars were perfected, and in turn these perfect ashlars grevO to liOing jewels of their craft. For thej) car?ed these , not wifh em- 24 blems of the fai4\ , but \vi4i strange ^oxO- ing symbols deeply cKiseled and carefully balanced . In those symbols was something of the pagan , something which the good padres assuredly) did not inspire . Perhaps the inspiration ceme from the qui-Oering, sunlight, the rounded hills, the far blue line o he ocean , rrhe door lintels, earned in conser- "Oati-Oe cruciform designs, were strikingly) different and in their waj) no less beauti- ful. But in the keystones were sermons . aHREE years passed, and the cen- tur? ended wi4\ the work onl]? one third completed. Still the hundreds of laborers went about their tasks , while the padres planned and directed , yet without neglecting their spiritual trestle-boards . Gone was the stonemason, lea^>ing a greater genius than his own wi^ the pupils of his teaching . The bluish gre:? sandstone still came from the quarr? , the careers still wrought wi^ the slo^ patience of their race . Neither gaud>) nor baroque was their work; thej) had learned temp- erance, prudence, fortitude and justice. U 25 tK«se entering largel]^ into their lalx>r . AnotKer three years crept on. Frajl Vicente Fuster went the wa]? of all flesh and the vacancy? was filled bi? one Jose Faura . What mattered names? Qliese men lived for the salvation of souls , and to the glor? of God . Somewhere within the walls rests Brother Vicente , his grave unknown , unmarked ; yet his menorj? is more en- during then hrorze . & LOWLY the great edifice drexO upward . Olie loft? campanile began to rise — up and up , ever climbing skyward , until it could be discerned for ten miles ; the sound of its high bellf- carried even farther . Other three years passed , but nov? more swiftl]? . HT^e floor was laid , the carven doors and windows were placed , the lai.t capital and column were set in their concrete beds , the plaster was drawn over the rough walls, and the stone-chips were cleared from the patio ■ Not yet was the task completed , however. Remained some delicate gild- ing and tinting wi^ soft ochres and 36 tKe tender sKeen of copper-ground sKip's paint, ^e dull colorings blended most exquisitely; wifK the deep red of the tiles, tKe creamy) white of the plaster, until the high-towering transept and sanctuary) v^ere gorgeous in soft harmony . It was finished . aO W came a splendid and not able companj> wending unto t'.ie Mision San Juen Capistrano. Came Don Jose Juaquin de Arrell- aga, bringing his ofiicers and soldiers from all the presidios; he was gover- nor of the province and a very wordiy gentleman. Came Frny Esteoan Tapis, president of the missions. Came many brethren of the Order from their scatt- ered posts: San Gabriel Archangel, San Luis Re^ de Francia, Santa Barbara, and others. Came neophytes from the neirihbor missions, wi{h Spaniards and half breeds, in great numbers. To receive them were the builders, the San Juanenos; and Padres Faura and Santiago, whose labors had brought to completion tnis work. ^Tlius at last was the great edifice ': ! 97 consecrated; •nd, save to the Supreme Architect, tKere was no cKurcK debt. TKe date was September 7, 1806; of tKe work tke ninib year. * nanamm HE [nllGH [Q]ELLS i II . 1 ^ Unto tk« flk:; Tower w« afar , Calling on high , Calling man nigh — Nigh unto prayar . O^ar tha worn Daaart-Iand's glara, To sundrift and star Our call is upborna, "Come 3>e to prayar!" E'Oer we cr^ , NIrOer we cease , "Come 5>e to prayer, Here is God's peace!" ■.'7Erjn?'z.^asiS:mr^'- ''.?s.Tnau:.-n»cT j>ir'-w*; ir-"i-'i>* -p^nsrr THE HIGH BELLS * HI TALLY important to the work of the mission , and symbolic to In- dian Hearts of all for which the mission stood, were its bells. n\\e dail;? regime , in fact the entire mission life, was under the regulation of the bells . Meals , worship , laboi — for each occupation of brethren and neophy- tes the bells were struck . Was ru>t each act a service of God ? Todaj> , those bells , four in number , hang in a lovt ^all; the largest is dated 1796 , and its inscription is in honor of Padres Fuster and Santiago. Next in size is that holding a bold proclamation: " Ruelas made me , and m:i^ name is San Juan , 1796 ." 51 ;il V H WKo was this Ruelas? Wc do not kno^ . ^Tne one man wKo left His name graven upon this structure, He alone Has been totall>l forgotten. niwse two bells ma^^ Kave been re- cast from those buried in 1775 \r^ Padre Lasuen; but accordirtg to local traditions the buried bells were never found. Dated "San Antonio, 1804" and "San Rafael , 1804" , the two smaller bells tKat bang Here were evidently' sent from other missions to enrich the campanile of the great net? church. SA R S H and strident , the bells rang afar, clanging bir^ and marriage, sorro'v? and toil , worship and dea4i . So high stood the campanile that it could be seen from Los Alisos , ten miles distant . And for six years the high bells swung there, until the Master's hand touched upon them . The builders of the church depart- ed, and in their places walked Padres Francisco Sufier and Josef Barona — men sent hither to meet heart-rending ferial days , and one of them destined to suffer at the hands of evil men . li> ! • 1 S9 December 8, i8ia, came and w«nt again . For ut wKo look back upon a vanitkcd era , it is • da]^ of questioning. It was the feast of the Immaculate Conception . SH E first mass was for a^ cKance? TKe service began. TKe tongues of tKe bells were replaced b^) chanting; the Indian flutists , drummers and vio- linists lifted the voices into resounding cadences ; Vancouver's barrel-organ piped throatil>l .' Candles blazed ; at the altar was the padre, wearing the white-and-gold chasuble which had come from Mexico Cit? . ^ rought bjJ pious hands , sent to some older mission , it had been outworn and replaced and sent on , at last reaching San Juan , still stiff and gorgeous . And it is there no^ . ni\e offertor^ was finished . In the campanile two boys were ringing the bells for second mass. Hl^e bronze tongues wens clanging, clanging -•- why > Appendix B ill 111 34 should it have befallen at that instant? For of a sudden the vaulted domes were rent asunder . ^ I T H the wave-kke motion of the Sfia "w^alls , the doors jammed ; above , the roof cracked open to the blue sk^. Although the celebrant motioned the people toward the sacris^ door, not all could obe>> . From above came a rush of rubble as the walls were ripped asunder and the domes fell. Dust-darkness, shrieks .... chaos . And then one tremendous crash that drowned all else ; the proud campanile had fallen ! Instead of burying all beneafh its ruins , it fell awa;? from the church , out into the plaza . Wh>> ? Ql F T E R two days of searching and 99 labor , fort)? bodies were recovered; others were not recovered . Hlie padres buried the dead , whose names maj> to this da3> be read in the records. Nine years in building, the church PI 3S haa served God six yeatrs when it was shattered . ^^e senotuarj^ and transept •lone were unruiried , un termed , left intact . Wk]? ? OtKer structures suffered little; the padres took up the dail]^ round ane\9 , not trying to rebuild. In after times such efforts were made, but came to naught. Again the mission prospered, dealt largely in hides and grain and cattle ; per!\aps the brethren cherished ambitions, yet in the days of prosper- ity that followed the earthquake, the church was not rebuilt . Wh]? ? ^^ese quehcf we cannot answer. ^ iij I si- * V* s% I C3 HE go YOTE v'' Ll 111 f * It: AH the nigKt is deep and still ; Coj>ote , do -pou hear tKe fKunder grovJling ? Stars fling silver over the hill Where the gaunt grej^ beast is prcmJling, Up at the stor-jlecked night-sk>) hoWling, While men ^atch not but sleep their fill — . O^e , o^e ! When the da'Wn comes gre}? Coj^ote, do 3>ou hear the ^.under groWling? Hi 1 THE COYOTE ^ 1 F T E R tkese things fell evil days ^B upon the place , ind yet more evil men Always Had Mexico eyed greedil>l tne rich Alta California missions, post- ing soldiers at eaoK one and claiming ivil autkori^i^. H^xe cKolo soldiers did as tKe^ pleased , defymg tKc padres , and at San Juan t\\e-^ most grievousl:p maltreated Padre Barona . Also , tkese ckolos bf Kt vioes and drunkeness among tke Indians ; no good tking came out of Mexico . ^The neopkytes were tkrown into tke Hands of tke flesk and tke devil . Simple souls were tke^ . not kard x - 'ead astra^j'; tke olden days were gone, and into 39 U\ 40 tKeir world Kad come greed . J^j N 1833 the missions we*-" finally) SOB seized , and San Juan Capistrano was the first to suffer. The San Juanenos sav? the rule pass into ne\i) hands ; the]? sa'vJ the lands sold off; thej) sb'v? men casting lots for the sacred "^Jestments ; thej' s&yS the mission buildings desecrated , and themselves cast adrift . Later came smallpox and dwelt wi(h them , so that the San Juanenos per- ished as a people . No^ the coyote comes into the storp . Among the Indians was a say- ing, part of a folk-tale net yet lost: ' Oye los truenos , coyote ?" Dost hear the thunder, coyote? HTiere is pi{h in the words , After man]? years were the mifsion buildings, their contents partiall>) intact, restored to their church, thrrugh the work of Dona Ysadora Pico de Forster . It was too late to save the neophytes b it was not too late to save the buildings; however, the place was for- gotten of the world. Yet, what matter 41 whetKer the world rem«mber»? Years fled, t^pJetiJ? or more. Ser- vices were Keld occasionally' . LooUrs found the place ricK ; but tKeir hands took amazingly little . Here were statues , wrought from Spanish woods and decked wiAi gold • Silver candlesticks , torches , crosses and other objects of metal were not lack- ing. Also, rare paintings and broideries- & OMEHOW, down the years, the mission held these things un- warded , unlocked . 01\e adobe build- ings around the patio crumbled ; earm hid the tender red tiles ; men quarried materials from the ruins for their own uses . Coyotes howled in the desolate patio ; this was thp final requiem . But those remaining of the San juanenos whispered : "Oye los truenos , coyote ?" ^TKe words held significance; net often is Sunder heard hereabouts, and a 4iunderstorm is rare indeed . Per- hnps — who knows? — to the Indian mnid it ^pified the voice and action o'^ Dei^? . But the coyote , like the 42 temple loottr, was the most despicable of all things. "Dost hear the fliund- er, coyote?" The saying lingered. Within the mission were desolation and graves , ruin and sadness , neglect and emptiness . Yet , from time to time , God thundered upon the hills . God does not forget. He was raising up a man to His work . < * * [cl HE m AN f I »1 He Heard . joUmn an^em n7iin Upon the tWalloWt' Mittered criee; nh* bare bro^n hills became to him A fhimmer of tuit' symphonies ; A^«7art the ciumblini; cloister-shade An angel's Wing limned lanes of light , And from forgotten graves out-stra)>ed Lot? whisperings upon ^ night. Wiih adze and plane and rugged beam He fell to hewing out his dream. THE MAN fa MAN came to San Juan to die. Smitten b>l tK* white plague, Ke was denied all Kope. Since Ke Had but to await deaib , ^^et wisKcd to re- main in tne Divine service , Ke wac sent to tke abode of desolation . I do not tKink it cccured to the Man , or to anyone else , tKat all his life had been sKapen toward his com- ing here to die. God never makes mistakes . OThe Man, burning wifh a deep spiritualij? , came here to die. Oni]? forgotten graves awaited him ; onljl the work of the Landmarks Club had saved the mission from total destruction. Weeds gre\0 'hculctr hsgh in the 45 i i4 f ^mi 46 Kolj? places. Tourists dtfacad cver^ wall . Wi the paopla parisK. ORva Man baKalc! hare a lifa- work ; bacauia Ka Had this Vision Ka did not partsK but took up tKa task . niiroiigK wKat doubt and despair Ka struggled , none otKer can knoi9 . Often bis Vision seemed destroyed, as difficulties loomed larger. EacK forward step seemed to attain ne^ troubles. But God never makes mistakes . Wi? brick and tile. He traded nstO for old, collect- ing from tKe town and rancKes mucK tKat was ^)aluab!e in Kis •v>ision . All sucK tKings furtKered Kis labors. ^1 HENCE came tKe monej^ for !^B tKis work ? From bo4a ecclesiasti- cal and private sources , let us saS . from God. No Kire could buj? sucK labor as tK» Padre gave to Kis -Oision , for Kis remuner»«ion was not of tKe earfK . Before Kim la>^ eterni^ for tKis task, and tKere was no Kaste. If Ke laid but one tile etcK daj) , and laid it well, Ke was content. It was tKis spirit wKicK made tKe old world's wonders , and makes tKe nr»7 world wonder. It is rarely found 49 in this countrS^ . Once it was Kcr* . indeed, but wi^ the dispUcemcnt of thoroughness h^ greed, as a standard of craftmanship, it -Vanished . This spirit made the rugs of Pet* sia, the Flemish buildings, the hrorze* craft of China , the illuminations whidt Irish monks taught the schoolmen of Europe. Rugs, buildings, bronzes, ill* uminations — these are made no more in the old spirit; the^^ are made but to perish, for their makers have no Vision. But at San Juan Capistrane the spirit lingers . fi O R years the mission wa# deso* lata and abandoned , ^^isionless . Its people perished and "Sandals held it at their merc;^ . Yet the spirit of the piKJres abode in the place where t\\e^ had sarvad; then came the Padre. In him the old spirit revived, and the ancient "Vision. Even? stone and cBr?- ing and orumbling fresco cried out to him; Adobe and Keystone and Bell carried to him their message. Under the spell of his "Vision, ruin and destruction evolved into beau^ and u service. Nfor did He serve the dead onl3>, for children sat at his feet and learned . His ^as the Icgacp of human fragments in the despised cholo, the halfbreed, the Mexican and Indian. Witfi sue', fragments he builded . In him the> sa^, not the alien, but the Padre whose soul housed -Oenera- tion and deep kindliness, and a vision. ^lUeS answered to the vision of their fathers . The townfolk jeered beoause he traded nexQ bricks for old. made nails in the forge, left his neW doors bare until he could get the paint used b^ the padres. As the fragments, human and divine, upgreW beneath his hand, the scofjiing ceased. BND toda>> the old place is alive. It is alive wiA its ancient beau^ , •liv* wi^ graves and ruins, alive -^^iA its rebirth. Its people are not perish- ing but are thriving. Tourist <>andals have been turned into pa}?ing guests. Never will the mission be restor- ed to its pristine grandeur; and it is better so. Mo longer are neophytes at tBM 5« Kand to work in sKop and field, no longer do its cattle roam the Kills , no longer does tKe land need it as a center of industrj^ and agriculture. ^TKe land needs it onl^p as the House of Gcd . EacK crumbled arcK, each delioate ke^j^- stone , bears a spiritual message . A N Juan does not lack relics of more materal interest --- Padre Serra's book of the dead , a letter writ b^^ Fra3^ Crespi before Ssn Diego was founded , ancient silver and t?essels and paintings . QKe Padre, too, Kas great store of tales and legends dra^n from tKe Hearts of His people; and tHese He will some da^^ , perHaps , make into a book . He will do so •-- five, ten, twen^k^ years Hence . WHj> Hurrj? ? WHo serves God , not man , finds a calm poise in life ; to eacH daj^ some task , but God sets tHe pace . PerHaps tHis , after all , is tHe greatest lesson . FINIS I jl. J J Appendix A Tradition informs us tkat among tK« ti^pts of Korses Were: sabino tortoisa-akall tordillo gnS palomino •- buff, wkitt tail ^Tka Padra Kas a mora complete list. WKelKer these ara pural^ local names , I am unable to sa3^ . r Appendix B "Vancouver gave Father Lasuen , of the San Juan Capistrano Mission, a barrel cvTtan for his church." Smythe, Hist, of San Diego, p. 84. I can find no other mention of this instrument . 4k Hcrt end* Hhm Stor^ of Mifion San Juan Capistrano printed b^ hand at the Sign of the Crossed Quills in Sta Barbara