%, s^ ■->. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 5* // 1.0 I.I 11.25 Mi.K^ WIS ui UK ML 12.0 lU 1.4 II 1.6 nt ine pelure, aqon dt 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 I "^ ■■ ^ "^ \apa iORE AVA f, >. • 'V, »v\' /.-'// '/'-/^ / W E ST WA \\ ^M TO THE FAR EAST / / y Iapan, iOREA, • J ;hina, Siam AVA. Burma. AND India. Scidmore T WESTWARD TO I THB FAR BAST A GUIDE TO THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF CHINA AND JAPAN WITH A NOTE ON KOREA HY ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE. KIGIITH KDITION. ISSt'BO IIV TiiK Canadian Pacific Uah.uav Comi'anv, 1900, Ik •- • V ^^ r~i X v. i'» r, lilJI r. I ^ f ..- r i*j*ai.^*wiurA ■o--w-i-iiiii-1s^:;Xi'^fe?^;fe"^i' -aiU.Iu^i.i^c'n r^*i •''T?>r'''"ii'i'4tvi-ite>iMii CANADIAN PAOIFIC RA AND ITS OONNeCTION "'mm^mm — // ' T I ' ; ; VI [ '~^ — _— i^ f" !6 "yJ >T'" A-f^ ^^^ Kruvotsrvk E S> R I T.kooUkiJ^'TV ■■ P 1 K E ^r* / Uorocco Tripoli ^^^ . IMIoo y? /Japan g,'v #♦ tr M r I u E > \i cj^i»* U'Lm<. 8MAN0MAI l|;""'ff*o«*^' •' I /St.Uait I Kl^S A H A R A c.-iHtk- \>-wL^ / ' *OH«|»A FACIEI OCEAN ^X ARABIA 5 B.„bV>«::f /^^Ni"* TT^/^NQ K0H3 )~oood.r '---']) -r***'-»irhE^»""_\vV ^V ''•■^A.'"' IMfM W tMCU HONOLULU^ OCE A K ^^ O. a/ Uwid Uiyt' G E CANADIAN PACIFIC ROUTES AROUND THE WORLD «p Leii(lta«* ap Cut Jtaa ip QrwBwtch 110 160 IM toBg ltudt ' 1 -^ 1-.,*. '•- A . If' ii i '< k: The TaLiPMOHa No. "thecan, ARCHER European Tra a7 * ••, KiMa w AND so, Oo< THAFALa. Partie return it wi Name of SU fU Class of Act -.".'■] * Value of Pi >'J''T For Throug) i Name and A NAMI •NoTB.— No ohn a Saloon Berth, which can be n ticket, lugfiraffo Balance of Far paid at onco in Second C Lines receive Fj N.I.— Allan; Amw •v. ■' I " JST» I '/'..I >D A. las. B.T.M. The Canadian Pacific Railway Company. TiLirHONi No. 1301 (ointiial). T«i.aaii**Hio Aoomaai "thECAN, LIVERPOOL." ARCHER BAKER, EuiioPKAN Trafpio Manaobh, a7 * es, Kina WiLLUH St. , ■•O., AND ao, OooKapua St., Ta*rALa«a aquAna, a.W. LONDON. \ aua-AaiNoiaai LIVIRPOOLi a, jAMaa aTRKiT. OLAaOOWi a7. 8t. ViNoaNT BTniBT. OOTKBORQ, awaoaN i PoaraATAK No SS ANTWanPi H. OaaaNHAM, at QuAi TAvaRNiaaa. FORM OF • APPLICATION FOR PASSAGE TICKETS. Parties requiring Passage Tickets should fill up this form and return it with Post Office Order or Cheque for amount of passage to J. J. GILBERTSON, Agent, Canadian Pacific Railway Co., 9, James Street, LIVERPOOL. Name of Steamer. Sailing Date Class of Accommodation Steamer r. Rail (write Saloon, Intermediate or Stucrago), (write First Class or Colonist Class.) *Value of Post Office Order or Cheque enclosed^ £ For Through Tickets from to Name and Address in full to which Tickets are to be sent. NAMES IN FLLL. Ak«s lost biithday If under 12 jwirs. REMARKS. - •NoTB.— No charge beyond ordinary faros for iHsninsr tiokots. Deposit of fiT) will secnro a Saloon Berth, and fil a Second ('abin or Htcerayo Uertb. Upon receipt of dopos t, which can be readily sent through the Post by nioanH of i'ost OlHce Order (crossedj, ticket, lugsratre labelH, embarkation notice, and everything necessary will Ije forwarded. Balance of Faro payable two days at least befopo steamer loaves, or total faro may bo paid at onco in full. , . „ , tt, . . Second Cabin (or Intermediate) and Steerage Passengers by Allan and Dominion LinoR rocoivo Froo Tickets London to Liverpool. N.B.— Allan t Amarloan; Anchor; Ounard; Dominion) Norddautsoher Lloyd; and White Star Affonoy. M i CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY & OCEAN SERVICES. Ths only actual Trans-Continental Railway on the American Continent. The ionseet Line under one Manag^ement in the Worid. Its Trains and Steamers extend in a direct line from Atlantic tide-water to Hongr Kong'— 9,180 miles. SUMMER TOURS -__- ♦ * ExpreHK Triiin Service to Kisliinjf and ShoolitiK (Jroiuids tluoiiyh tlic I'iiicsL Wccuory in the World— an onchanting pa.iioruma of L!<.kos, Prairien, Mountains, and Riverfl. Hotels in the Rockies ; Mighty Glaciers and SWISS GUIDES. The Dining Cars aie the crowning point in the luxury of travel. R OUND T HE WO RLD Via Vancouver.— Ohoap tripn by many routes, but all including nmrvcllous Canadian Paciflc Scenery. See free Avound-Uic- World Folder Mnp.-A CURIOSITY. JAPAN AND CHINA- " EmprcHB of India," " Kmi)roHK of Japan," "Kniprcss o( China," 0,000 tons gross, 10,000 H.l'., Laf^Mt, Fastest and Finest Steamers on the Paoifio Ooeail, leave Vancouver every throe weeks. AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEAL AND N<'W Steamships, of Canadian-Australian Line, Largest, Factsst, and Finest running from Amerloan Continent to Australasia, leave Vancouver monthly, calling Houol\ilu, Hrisbano and Sydney. Electric light, good cuisine, exceptionally large cabins. «■«££ FARMS - - - - To Settlers in the Canadian North-V/cst. « « RCELS « « Can bo sent to all ))oints in CANADA A UNITID STATU at Low llates. EXPRESS MONEY IHI Cheapest and Host Method of sending Money. ORDE RS ISSUED - I'liyablc every whore. Everyone who readfl thl« .thould apply persunaUy or by letter for gratultouA and puAt^frec accurate mops and liandflomely-lllu«trated guide book*. There U n «peciul set of pamphlets for each of the Company's Services described hereon. State which Is required. ^pefaee. "Westward to the Far East" is intended to sui)ply general informa- tion in a concise form to those who may be desirous of visiting Japan and China, as well as to serve as a guide to those visiting those portions of the Orient by the Canadian Pacific Route. It is not an elaborately descriptive work, nor is it a mere bald statement of times, distances and measurements. It indicates the chief points of beauty and interest along the route and in Japan and China, dealing at sufficient length with each subject to satisfy the casual observer, and referring those who desire more detailed information to the several sources from which it may be obtained. It is intended to tell the possible traveler what there is to be seen and the actual traveler how to see it. h should be, if its author's good intention is fulfilled, iiiteresting to the one and useful to the other. It is the result of personal observation and enquiry prompted by the desire to accjuire the knowledge most useful to a tour- ist, and while being a trustworthy guide to those traveling in the coun- tries referred to, will teach others a great deal about China and Japan which they cannot fail to be interested in knowing. Those who have made up tiieir minds to take this enjoyable trip will, of course, require information — which being subject to change is not found in the guide-book — concerning sailings of steamships, bag- gage allowances, tickets, connections, etc., for which a|)plication should be made to one or other of the Canadian Pacific Railway Com|)any'o agents. And such intentling travelers will probably like to have the com[)anion, " The New Highway to the Orient," a haiulsomely illus- trated pamphlet, which tells of the journey across the continent, and which the ngents of the company will furnish with, pleasure to anyone desirous of reading it. 1). McNICOLL, I'aHHtiDger Traffic Manager, C. I'. K. ^« "'""^I/ -f^.. ^1 d_- ^ O O < K [•■-■ *># y W Indie Polo and ^ with a goo ^•iV I When rolunihiis sailed westward to find a slinrtcr rontc Indies, !i(> was thinking as well oi' tiie iahk-d /ipangu of which 1\)1() hud iieard at the court of Kiinhlai Khan. I-eaving San S; and sighting Cuba, the great admiral was sure that Zipangu's with its roof, floors and windows "of gold, in plates like slal)S of a gootl two lingers thick." was near at hand. to the Marco ilvador palace, stone, Fortunately for us, Japan was held in reserve for this century and this generation, and this exquisite country — different in itself from the rest of the world and all this side of the planet, as quaint and unique, as beautiful and finely finished as one of its own netsukes or minute works of art — delights the most jaded traveler and charms every one who visits it. Columbus failed to find this Zipangu, or Jeh Pun, the Land of the Rising Sun; but Pinto did in 1542, and made possible the work of St. Francis Xavier and the early Jesuit fathers, but for whose interference with political affairs the country would not have been closed to all for- eign intercourse until Commodore Perry's visit in 1853. The sperm whale was the innocent factor in this great result, and after quoting Michelet's praise of the whale's service to civilization, Nitobe* says, " that the narrow cleft in the sealed door of Japan, into which Perry drove his wedge of diplomacy, was the rescue of American whalers." From providing a grudging refuge for shipwrecked and castaway mari- ners, Japan now welcomes visitors from all the world and bids them enjoy an Arcadia where many things are so strange and new that one might as well have journeyed to another planet. Within a few years, pleasure travelers around the world have more than quadrupled in numbers, and a girdling of the earth is now the p-and tour, which a little round of continental Europe used to be. The trip to Japan for Japan's sake alone is altogether an affair of these later days. " More travelers, better ships ; better ships, more travelers," is an old maxim in shipping circles, and there is proof in the increasing number of trans- Pacific passengers and the presence of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company's fleet of Empress steamships which carry them across the greater ocean. With their close connection with the company's transcontinental railway a new era of travel began. There is every inducement and temptation to make the circuit of the globe, and Japan fairly beckons one across and along this highway to the Orient. With but two changes, one may go from Hong Kong to Liverpool, more than half way around the globe ; and from Hong Kong to the Atlantic steamer a uniform decimal system of coinage solaces a tourist's existence- . Time and distance have been almost annihilated by modern machin- ery, and the trip from New York to Yokohama takes no longer now than did the trip from New York to Liverpool but a few years ago. Ten days after leaving Yokohama the Empress of Japan hail arriveil at Vancouver, ami in less than fifteen days from leaving Japanese shores its passengers were in New York and Boston. Inside of sixty days one may leave New York, cross the continent and the Pacific, spend four weeks in the cities and famous places of Japan, and return again to New York ; where, if he commit himself to Atlantic ships and waves, he will remember and more keenly appreciate the delights of the Pacific voyage. Each year is Europeanizing and changing Japan, and the sooner the tourist goes the more Japanese will he find those enchanting islands. ♦ " Intetcourse Hciwecu llie Uiiitcil Stiites und Japan," by Ina/o (Ota) Niltibe. John Hupkiiiii, I'ren,, i8gi, Ualtimore. Every season is a good season to visit Japan, and in every month of the year he will find something peculiar to that season in addition to the usual features. The time of the cherry blossoms and the season of the chrysanthemums are the gala weeks of the year, and during those April and October fetes the climate leaves little to be desired. The somewhat rainy seasons of June and September render those months the least desirable, and the heat of midsummer is a little trying to some ; yet from the first poetic days of springtime to the end of the long drawn autumn the out-door life gives an interest and color which the winter months lack. The autumn usually merges into an Indian summer which may last until January, and the frost summons a carnival of color at which the Canadian and the American, used to their own brilliant autumnal foliage, may marvel. In midwinter, Tokio is crowded, parlia- ment is in session, the court is in full social activity, pageants and holi- days are many, and even at its worst the weather is a gentle contrast to that of the continent across the Pacific. " The Japanese," says Percival Lowell,* " makes love to Nature, and it almost seems as if Nature heard his silent prayer and smiled upon him in acceptance ; as if the love-light lent her face the added beauty that it lends the maid's. For nowhere in this world, probably, is she lovelier than in Japan; a climate of long, happy means and short extremes, months of spring and months of autumn, with but a few weeks of winter in between ; a land of flowers, where the lotus and the cherry, the plum and wistaria, grow wantonly side by side ; a land where the bamboo embosoms the maple ; where the pine at last has found its palm-tree, and the tropic and the temperate zones forget their separating identity in one long, self-obliterating kiss." 11. A daylight trip up the Hudson and past Lake Champlain, or a night in a sleeping car, puts the trans-Atlantic or the New York traveler at the beginning of his journey. From Montreal to Vancouver, the broad highway of the Canadian Pacific Railway bands ^co^^ th e the continent and joins the two ocean tides, as if only a broad c^uay separated them. In luxurious cars, where he dines and sleeps, bathes, smokes and reads as in a hotel, he beholds the panorama of the continent. There is revealed to him every physical feature of the new worhl, the great lakes, the great rivers, the plains and prairies, for- ests and swamps, and finally the greatest mountain ranges of the continent succeed one another in the rapidly moving pictures. The engine darts through, climbs over, flanks, encircles and concjuers those barriers until, racing down the long caiion with the mad current of the Fra/er, it runs out from the level woodland of Burrard Inlet, and, panting, slows up siile by side with the great white steamship that is to convey the traveler across the ocean, to that older world where the human race began. With his annotated time table — the most excellent and usefiil piece of lailway literature ever devised — the tourist has a key and bird's-eye I ■ " I'lii! Soul of llii; Kiir Kiist," by Percival l.owcll, Doituii and New York: Houghton, Miflliii & Co., 1888. ^..f**^-; The iced LAKE SUPERIOR. view of the continent beside him, and with his own penciHngs by the way on its blank leaves, it becomes the complete journal and record of his days on the overland train. There is a new object lesson in geology and botany to be studied through car windows each day, and much of ethnology as well. For the first tlay the train races through a half- covered glacier garden, and the marks of the great ice sheet that ground down the Laurentian slopes are so plain that one expects some next turn to show a rumpled ice stream pouring through a ravine, rather than another lake encircled by the forest. On the second day, the glacier garden continues on a larger scale, and on the left the view ranges out over : I I THE PRAIRIES. THE ROCKIES. The grassy plains, where the buffalo roamed by millions, are now mosa- iced with wheat fields, checkered with these squares of intensest green oi gulden yellow grain, or the black of plowed loam, and tall elevators stand by the tracks like lighthouses on the level sea. The only reminders of the herds that used to blacken the prairies are in the long lines of deeply indented trails and wallows, and the few melancholy piles of bleached bones beside the track, the last of the immense "crop" one plentifully gathered all over the buffalo country and sold at two dollars a cord to be shipped to sugar refineries. The noble Blackfeetand Cress crouch on the station platforms at Qi'Appelle, Moose Jaw, Swift Current and Medicine Hat selling polished buffalo horns, or polished ox horns, which do as well for the tourist trade, and hiding their heads from amateur photographers until paid to pose. Near the latter town the Crow's Nest Pass Railway branches off to tlie left through the great cattle country of Southern Alberta, and forms a short route from tlie East to the gold fields of the Kootenay. The Northwest Mounted Police, alert for smugglers and disturbers of the Indian peace, show their gay uniforms at all these prairie stations, antl are as favorite subjects for touch-the-button photographers as the retired red warriors, bucks and braves temporarily out of the scalping business. At daylight, a high blue wall bars the west, resolves itself into spurs, peaks and long, overlapping ranges, and shows a more impenetrable front as the train races toward it and ploughs into a cleft at its base. One enters the mountains and leaves the plains behind as abruptly as if he had passed through a door in an artificial wall. The whole world changes. Mountains tower about one, each one rising alone and distinct from the nairow level of the valleys ; each mountain as sharp, free cut and isolated as a pyramid built by human hands. Geology and world-building are written as plainly as printed text, and the processes by which these masses were uplifted are so apparent that one can fancy the strata still in motion, groaning and creaking as they are forced up and bent almost at a right angle with their old horizontal levels. Even the most hurried tourist should save three days of grace for his overland tour, and spend one of them at Banff, just within the mountain wall. The Canadian Government has reserved a Na- tional Park twenty-six miles long and ten miles wide, BANFF. and in its midst, surrounded by the finest peaks, sec- tions of strangely and magnificently tilted strata, the Canadian Pacific Company has provided a perfect hotel. The building is perchetl on a knoll above the blue Bow River, and commands such views toward every point of the compass that only a revolving room on the roof could give the guest the outlook he most desires. He may rejuvenate himself in the magic hot sulphur waters in a hotel tub, or he may plunge into a natural swimming pool of w irm water in a domed cave ; and by horse, foot, wheel and boat he may explore the surrounding Rocky Mountain Park for weeks without exhausting its wonders. From Banff to Laggan the scenery is most magnificent and the Rockies equal all of one's expectations. Gigantic jjcaks and battle- mented walls enclose the narrow vnllcy, and glaciers and snow fields clothe the upper reaches, beyond and among which lie the so-called Lakes of the Clouds, bits of water framed in mountain walls that rival the best of Swiss and Norwegian scenery. A three-mile wagon road THE LAKES IN THE CLOUDS. has been cleared through the pine woods from Laggan to Lake Louise, the beginning of cloudland. The railway company has built a chalet near the lake shore, where the tourist may enjoy all creature comforts if he wishes to prolong his stay and dwell awhile in the wilderness. Lake Louise, with its tremendous peaks and precipices, its glaciers and snow fields, its stretch of mirror waters that nearer show a depth of color unapproached by the other lakes, has drawn forth all the adjectives its visitors could command. Yet its loveliness can only be suggested to those who have not climbed among the slender tapering spruces and literally waded among the wild ilowers on the high mountain meadows. Mirror Lake, still fur- ther up among the clouds, is a pool of different hue, more closely hemmed by mountain walls striped, oversjjread and finely fretted with snow banks ; and every detail shows double, the clearest and shurpes*. reflections covering the whole unrufHed surface of the lake. There are magnificent views down to the Bow Val' ey and across to further ranges as one follows these upper trails, picking his way in and out of forests, and across acres of heathery pink and white brianthus and pale green Cassiopeia, and beds of blue bells, gentians, cyclamens, anemones, dai- sies, buttercups, and Indian pinks. The edelweiss is found in the highest flower beds, and footprints of mountain goat and mountain sheep tell what other visitors these flower-gemmed meadows attract. Lake Agnes is third and last in the trio of lakelets, and in the high, thin air every detail of its further shores are as clearly seen as if near at hand. Waterfalls dropping in slender filaments from the higher snow banks, fill the air witl a distant, constant undertone, and the fleecy clouds sail over a second sky lying in the lake, and play hide and seek with the doubled j^eaks. The wonders of the Rockies are not nearly exhausted when one takes train again at Laggan. Soon Mt. Stephen looms, first ahead and then directly overhead, as one is tobogganed down the cafion at its base. It takes more than two looks to reach to the top, precipitously as it fronts one, and the mountain plays fontastic tricks with the eye as the train moves away from it — the domed mass suddenly bounding from behind a ridge, rising, swelling and seeming to advance toward one as the engine shrieks and madly races away from it. Another great mountain range bars the way and the train creeps along shelves and ledges of the caiion of canons leading to the summit of the Selkirk range. The views backwards, below, across and overhead are more and more magnificent as one catches glimi)ses between the tunnels. After gaining the ridge, the train races from Rogers' Pass down to (Uacier station, where another of die company's hotels invites the tourist to spend his third day of grace, and as many more hours as he can command. The hotel is 4300 feet above either ocean, and the broad stream of the Selkirk (lUuier is seen curling over and pouring down the slope at THE GREAT the end of the great horseshoe valley. Advancing only SELKIRK one foot a day, the sun matches its might against the GLACIER. ice and keeps the forefoot of the glacier almost sta- tionary at the head of the ravine. One may see the glacier very satis- factorily from the car window and note the pale greens and blues of the crevasses breaking the glimmering surface ; but he who stops may walk 10 T m > X r > > o r\ r. < 2 3 f a mile and a half through the woods and, mounting the grimy ice cliffs, wander as far as he will over the crackling surface. Asulkan, " the home of the mountain goat," rises behind the hotel, but that nervous beast, as well as his colleague, the big horn sheep, have taken to further pastures since the iron horse invaded their realms and began its inc*"- saat shrieking and tooting on the grades of the Illecillewaet Caiioi It is a magnificent crescent, by loops and curves and amazing turns, past shelves where one looks straight down two hundred feet to the Illecille- waet in i^3 narrow flume. Then there opens the broad REVELSTOKE. valley between the two mountain ranges where the young Columbia pours its current southward. The town of Revelstoke is an alternative point of departure for " The West Kootenay country," and the company has erected another of its model hotels on a terrace beside the railway station. There is a fine view from its piazzas down the great valley, and the shimmering heights converging in far dis- tance easily suggest what the scenery of the lakes must be. A branch line of railway leads to Arrowhead, where swift and comfortable steamers convey the tourist and his camera, the miner and his pack, through the lakes and along the chain of waterways reaching the International Boundary Line and beyond. In a score or more of mining camps and infant towns, he sees much of wild western mining life and backwoods picturesqueness. The Kootenay trip is so much the regular thing with tho;»e who wish to see the heart of the mountain wilderness, and the noblest lake scenery, that every arrangement has been made for the tourist's comfort and quick connections, and none should omit the steamer trip from Revelstoke. Crossing the youthful Columbia again, the train climbs a third moun- tain range and by the Eagle pass of the Gold Range reaches the shore of the great Shuswap Lake. The tourist, who has made the journey without stc p, has then enjoyed some sixteen hours of the finest moun- tain scenery on the continent ; is grimed with his day in the observation car, and deafened with the echo of caiions ; and as the Shuswap moun- tains shade to purple in the late summer sunset, he is too exhausted to agree or disagree with those less weary ones who pronounce the evening hours along the lake the crowning glory of the whole day's ride. As if this were not enough for a transcontinental trip, there follow the sunrise lights on the painted cliffs, the rose and orange, vermilion and umber walls of the steep caiion of the Thompson River. Last comes the splendid race with the Fraser to the sea, and a final speeding through the Cascade forests, where trees of gigantic size, a tangle of ferns and densest undergrowth tell of a new climate and conditions, the other shore, the Cordilleran slopes of the continent. At Vancouver a still larger and better hotel has been provided by the same far-seeing company, and although i' the heart of the town, its site affords it a fine mountain outlook. Southward vancouvslR. shines Mount Baker, a radiant pyramid of eternal snow, whose fascination grows upon one, and which Vancou- ver folk are bv.'ginning to look u])on with an affection and reverence that shadow the feeling of the Japanese for their sacred Fujiyama. A moun- tain wall rises straight across the harbor, and behind it is the lake from which the city receives it:, water supply, the pipes being laid in the bed of the inlet, whoi;e waters, too, are so clear that one hardly believes 12 them salt. In them float such large and richly- colored jelly-fish and medusae as one only expects to find in tropic waters, and at low tide, the piles of the older wharves offer such an aquarium and museum of marine life as would be worth an ad- mission fee on the Atlantic coast. Vancouver can pleasantly entertain a waiting voy- ager for a few days. Its streets combine frontier and sea- faring, mining and backwoods, European, A mer- ican and Oriental conditions and people. One curio shop sells basket work, silver and slate carvings brought in canoes by the coast Indians, and at the next door all the Orient is set before one by Chinese and Japanese traders who add to their stock by each arriving steamer. A mountain of tea chests is unloaded from each Empress, and a mountain of sacked flour and cotton in bales takes their place. In one shop delicate jeweller's scales weigh the miner's gold dust poured from buckskin bag or tin box ; in another shop lean, yellow Chinese fingers manipulate the silk-strung scales with which the smoker's opium is measured out. A street of trim villas, with beautifully-kept lawns and gar- dens, becomes a roadway through the forest primeval, and the nine miles of carriage road through Stanley Park show one a forest as dense as a tropical jungle. Where the sombre Douglas spruce grows thickest, there is only a dim, green twilight under their branches at noonday, and the road is a mere tunnel through the original forest. Bushes, vines, ferns and mosses riot there, cedars of California proportions amaze one, and the voyager should even rise before the lark, rather than leave without seeing what a north- west coast forest is like. Nothing that could be devised in those Lancashire yards was omitted to make the three Empresses triumphs of such arts. Strength and speed were first considerations, and with their steel hulls, double bottoms, watertight compartments, twin screws, triple expansion engines and straight record of over nineteen knots an hour, the conditions were more than fulfilled. First, for the comfort of the passengers the ships were painted white, making a difference of many degrees temperature between decks in southern waters, and giving them a spick and span look. Four hun- dred and eighty-five feet in length and fifty-one feet beam, with hurri- cane deck, cabins and staterooms amidships, there is space, air and steadiness to be enjoyed by the one hundred and fifty cabin passengers which each ship can carry. All staterooms have electric lights, and while electric fans and wind-sails give air in tropic regions, steam heat cheers and comforts on the northern parallels. Electric l'?.is above the tables replace the flapping flounce of the eastern punkah, and the creaking bar, and the sleepy punkah boy with his string, are no longer known. Chinese servants in caps and rustling blue blouses minister silently with velvet tread, automatic in their perfection, and the steward's crew are drilled to the wants of the clubmen and gourmets of the Far East, where dinner is a far more important and serious affair than in England itself. The traveler soon atlopts " boy " as the appellation of every kind of servant, his luncheon becomes " tiffin," he claps his hands (|uite as much as he rings the bell or presses the button, and the yellow servitors appear ^s quickly and silently as Ram Lai, with his key- THE STEAMSHIPS. '3 THE OCEAN START. hole entrances and cloud exits ; and the ease, the luxury, and all the creature comforts of the Far East begin to work their spell before many Pacific meridians are left behind. III. While a China steamer lies at Vancouver wharf, the whole town is conscious of the fact. When the " blue peter " flies at the mast head Vancouver keeps an eye on the inlet, and when the ship sails all Vancouver goes down to the wharf and speeds the Empress on her way. The ship often waits as late as fifteen o'clock in the after- noon, by the Canadian Pacific's twenty-four hour time system, in order to get the last passengers and the European mails from the overland train ; in the short v winter days it usually waits till the following morning. Then the lines are cast loose and the ship floats out into the stream. Vancouver cheers and bids the Empress adieu ; and gathering speed, the ship threads the Narrows, sends a great ripple across the Beaver's green bones, gives one a glimpse into tha* magnifi- cent fiord, Howe Sound, and then courses through the sea of islands, the long, island-studded stretch of the Ciulf of Georgia. For four hours the ship winds its way through land-locked waters before it reaches the open ocean and begins the voyage to the Or.jnt, away from the New World to the Old World, out of the West into the East. A smoke cloud on the Vancouver Island shore tells of Nanaimo's coal mines, where the ship's bunkers were filled, and always in the east shines Mount Baker, its white cone showing as long as land is in sight. Strange markings on the water tell where the fresh water of the Frazer River, with its different density and temperature, floats above, or cuts through the salt water in a body, showing everywhere a sharply defined line of separation. As silently as if sailing, not a beat of its great engines felt, the ship goes swiftly over almost glassy waters, among numerous islands, until passing between San Juan and Vancouver Islands it sights Beacon Hill, with its many suburban villas, and slows for a few mini'ios off the outside wharves of Victoria. The pilot clambers down to a waiting boat, carrying last letters and messages ashore and the last passengers are embarked. The city of Victoria is all but hidden far within its rock-rimmed and intricate harbor, and the naval station of Esquimault only declares itself by the mast heads showing beyond the tree-tops. No one should sail away thinking he has seen all, when he has not visited the one city of Victoria on the Western continent. Other cities named from Her Majesty have each their distinctive charm, but the Victoria of Vancouver is not surpassed. The real harbor upon which the city fronts is a broad basin reached by such a narrow passage between tree-covered points that larger steamers do not attempt to enter it, stopping instead at the outside wharf at the extreme eastern end of the city. So intricate is VICTORIA, B. C. H I I this inside harbor, with its many smaller bays and arms, that no tide table has ever been made out for it, and that mystery of the moon and the sea remains a riddle to scientist and mariner. On one arm of the harbor stands the old Hudson's Bay Company's storehouses, reminders of that day when those earliest pioneers erected their block-houses and traded with the Indians for pelts. Slowly the town grew, Fraser River, Cariboo and Cassiar mining booms bringing prospectors, pioneers and settlers to know the place and slowly add to its importance in that long ago before the railway. While British Columbia was an independent col- ony and Sir James Douglas and the other governors reigned undisturbed on this remote coast, Victorians had an even greater pride in their city. Those were the good old days of which it is most interesting to hear, but since the province joined with Canada its fortunes have grown apace, and the sentiment of the older residents has given way to great satisfac- tion with its wonderful later development and prosperity to which the Klondike boom has been the latest chapter. Summer excursion travel to Alaska has been succeeded by a1l-the-yeai round travel, to the Yukon Gold Fields, large ocean steamers leaving Vancouver and Victoria regu- larly for Skaguay antl Dyea, from which Dawson and Atlin Lake are now reached in comfort by railway, pack train and steamboat in a few days. A railway connects the city with the coal mines and Nanaimo ; a railway bridge spans a narrow arm of the harbor ; electric cars whizz up and down the streets, across James Bay to the outside wharf; its hotels have multiplied and grown ; its streets and shops make brave, gay show- ing, its Chinatown beguiles the tourist of many hours and dollars, and the passing traveler leaves with regret, hoping always to return. Victoria has the perfect climate according to the Princess Louise, who seeing it smothered in the billows of bloom of its early summer could not say enough in its praise. Southern California hardly shows more of beauty in city door-yards than one sees in Vancouver and Vic- toria, where the rose, the honeysuckle, and the fuchsia in particular, astonish one by their wild luxuriance. A century ago the natural clear- ings matted with wild roses amazed Marchand, the old French voya^eur, who compared Vancouver shores to the rose-covered slopes of Bulgaria. Ferns measuring eight and twelve feet in length, from root to tip of a single frond, entangle themselves by the roadside as foreground to the original forest setting, and every drive shows more of wild beauty and wonder. The sportsman and the angler find as much of delight in the surrounding country as the botanist, and every brave Briton feels pride in the splendid ships at Esquimault, the naval station just west of the city. There a dry-dock, ship-yard, foundries and workshops, store- houses and magazine supply the fleet that, cruising from the Dominion ^* to Chili, looks after British interests on this side of the Pacific. Up the Arm all young Victoria rows and sings on summer nights when sunset lingers so late ; and to pull up this long, narrow, winding arm of the sea, through its gorge where the waters swirl and boil, and return with the tide bearing one swiftly back again, is an excursion that delights the Victorian heart. Life goes easily and delightfully in this city by the western sea. Its citizens are sociable and hospitable. There is much tea and ^'^ IS h' ■^ \ tennis, boating and picnicking, dining and dancing, and military and naval uniforms brighten such scenes and maintain the official flavor of society at this old provincial capital. Leaving Victoria, the shore scenery grows finer as the ship, heading almost due westward through the Straits of Fuca, the mythical Straits of Anian, follows the sinking sun. The Olympic range stands as a giant sea-wall along the Washington shore, the Angel's Gate, a gap in the range just over the town of Port Angeles, showing a splendid snow peak in far perspective. Vancouver's shores siope from park-like and culti- vated tracts by the water to leagues of unbroken wilderness that clothe the mountain slopes to their very summits. Groups of black canoes drawn uj) on shote, columns of smoke before bark huts, can be seen with the glasses, and all the water's edges are picturesque. Race Rock Light, a mere candlestick standing on the water, signals the steamer adieu with the Union Jack by day and flashes its white light by night. Far across. Cape Flattery's light-keeper hails with the stars and stripes, and then, as she follows the dying day, there lies before the Empress the limitless western ocean, where the sun sets, the sun rises, and time begins. This ocean voyage of 4300 miles begins at the 49th parallel of north latitude, and Yokohama lies at 35 degrees 20 minutes north. By going further north, where the degrees of longitude converge, THE VOYAGE, the distance across is lessened. With the superior speed of the Empresses, the ocean passage is materially shortened, and the voyage usually occupies from a week to ten days less time than is required by other routes. On the westward course, the Empress'' curving route runs near enough to the Aleutian chain for one to see the shores of Atka Island, if the day be clear, or discern the glow of a volcano reflectetl in the sky at night. The "wolf's long howl " is not heard by the mariner on liis midnight watch, as despite the poet, the animal does not inhabit Unalaska nor any of the islanil chain. Instead, blue .bxes are raised for tiieir j)elts, and Atka in especial is all one blue ioyi ranch or peltry preserve. There are no settlements on these islands and but scant supplies of food and fuel for the wretched Aleutians living in half underground habitations. When the passes between th(;se islands are surveyed and charted the course to Japan can be shortened by curv- ing through them and along tlie higher parallels in Hehring Sea ; and the future trans- Pacific cable will have a land station on one of the Aleutians, and following their line, cross to the Kuriles or the Kanischatkan penin- sula and join the Siberian telegrapii lints. Crossing the line is the great incident of a Pacific voyage, and the 180th meridian that marks the division between the Fastern and the Western heiiiispheres, and is the exact antipotle of A DAY LOST. Greenwich, is almost midway in the course. In going out to Japan a day is dropped from the calendar, and in going eastward the day is doubled. One goes to bed on Monday night and wakens on Wednesday morning, or, on tlie return trip, he arises to live over again and repeat the incidents of the day before. On account of ship's (liscii)line, certain privileges and roiuine duties of the crew l)elonging to Sunday, that day is seldom dropi)i'd or doubled, and if tl\e meriilian is passed on Sunday notice is rarely paiil it. Convivial 16 passengers celebrate the crossing of the line, and the exact moment of transit is always known. The imaginative are bidden to feel the grating of the ship's keel over the meridian, and to see the line itself through a marine glass that has a cobweb thread across one lens. The up-hill of the voyage is over, and the descent down hill from the great meridian, out of the West and into the Kast, is begun. When the ship gets as far west as i6o degrees east from Green- wich the warmer and moister air of the Jai)an Stream is felt, and if it be in the summer montiis, the traveler will be glad to have some lighter clothing at han(i. Otherwise, he needs the same warm and serviceable clothing in he North Pacific as in the North Atlantic. Life on one of the Canadian Pacific steamships presents many attractions that tlo not appear on the Atlantic liner. The passenger need not live below the water line, nor at either end of a see-saw to begin with, and sea-sickness is not the con- life AT SEA. dition of so large a proportion of his fellows. Either the tourist is a better sailor by the time he reaches Halboa's presumably placid ocean, or else he gels his sea legs sooner on its longer swells. The best part of the deck space is not taken up with rows of mummies, laid out in steamer chairs, and the fetching and carrying of broths and doses are not the usual and nauseous incidents of deck life. So many nationalities are represented, such cosmopolitans and veteran travelers are gathered together on one of these Pacific steamers, tiiat the com])Iacent young tourist, whose town and family viewed him as a Columbus or a Stanley, when he started to circle the globe, slirinks into nothingness beside the tea, silk or opium merchant at his elbow, who is making his twentieth or thirtieth round. A Manilla or Java planter, a teakwood or pearl merchant from Siam, the liverless Anglo-Indian, the serious liriton in Chinese service, and the commercial traveler, who firmly believes that " Asia's niv spot," whether it be Col. Sellers' eye-water or a newer commodity he aims to introduce to those millions of customers — all these and many mission- aries, as well, meet on board, and constitute the inhabitants of the ship's small world. Veteran travelers, " the oldsters " of the Ivast, have their regular whist sit, long-running tourneys enliven the smoking rooms, games on the broad decks divert the company, and everything is done for the entertaimnent of the travelers. If a ball is wanted, the prome- nade ileck is enck)sed with flags, a few more electric lights are connected, a piano is l)ro\ight up, and lo ! a ball room worthy of Pacific dancers. No sail is sighted between the two shores ; no icebergs ever float in the North Pacific ; and a whale, a seal, a school of flying fish or I'ortu- guese men-of-war, or a night of jjhosphorescent waters are the memora- ble incidents, (ireal as the wave scenery m.iy sometimes be up by 50 and 51 degrees, the Pacific is a much more reliable and steady-going ocean tiian "the mournfiil and misty Atlantic," and the typlioon is its only dreaded storm, (lenerated in the (Miina Sea. the tai fu>t (great wind) often circles out into the greater ocean before it ex|)ends itself. 'I'he barometer always gives long warning, and many people are so sen- sitive to its atmospheric conditions that their nerves foretell a typhoon almost before the glass begins to fall. '•« 17 The typhoon is now so well understood that experienced navigators can tell its direction, when the ship is on its outer circles, at the centre or beyond its limits, and with a staunch ship in the open ocean there is nothing to dread but the shaking up and the somewhat closer air below. By a riiyming verse the typhoon's seasons are kept in mind : June, too soon. July, stand hy. August, you must. September, rememljer. October, all over. The Chinese passengers are sometimes interesting. After filling the air with paper joss money to projjitiate the evil spirits of the ocean they seldom come to the top again during the voyage, living sociably together in the Chinese steerage, where fan tan, opium smoking and chatter goes on. The bones of those who have died in America are often ])art of the west-bound cargo, and it is contracted that if one of them dies on ship- board he shall not be buried at sea, but embalmed and carrried on to China. In the leisure days on board, the traveler may devote himself to the literature of Japan, which is extensive. He must reail "■ The Mikado's Eiii/^irt','' * which the Japanese themselves acknowledge as the best and most reliable work upon their traditions, history, manners and cus- toms,! until he knows the outlines of the empire's history. He must know of the Siui Cioddess, who peopled the islands ; and of Jingo Kogo, the first empress. He must follow the decay of the emperor's power and the ursurpation of his functions by the Shogun, until that military vassal became the actual ruler and remained so tmtil tiie restoration of the emperor to actual power in iiS6asil Hall Chamberlain, and Prof. W . G. Mason. Prof. Chamberlain's "'Hiings Japanese " is a book of general reference, arranged as an encyclo- paedia, and is as much a necessity for those who would know what they are seeing as the " Murray." Of travels and impressions there are the re(~ords of Sir Kdward Reed, Miss iiird. Black, Dixon, Lowell and others; and Sir I'ldwin Arnold, Pierre Loti and Miss Alice l>acon have drawn Ja|)anese women from as many [)oinls of view. Everywhere lie finds testimony that there are no other people so refined, so courteous, gentle, amiable, inter- esting and innately ;usthetic as these Latins of the Orient. IV. Often the Empress sights land at noon and until (lark runs along close to the green Japanese sliores. They often approacli near enough to Kinkwa/an, the sacred island in the liay of Sendai, for one to see the temples among the trees and the llag Hying from the little lighthouse at the island's edge. 'I'his Bay of Sendai with Kinkwa/an (golden llower mountain) and the thousand pine-clad islands of Malsushima constitute one of the Sixn- Ki'if the three most beautifiil scenes in Japan. Tame deer roam among the temple gro\es and, in good old Biuldhist (la\s, no woman could look u|)on, much less set her defiling foot upon, the fishermen Kiukw,i/.an, and at the liny shrme at the sununil implore the God of the Sea, who colors the wavi's to a wondrously pure ]iale green, to ultramarine, purple and such irides- sacred isle. Sailors and pray at the shrines of * I'm full Ullcs i( bonks i)i reference, see list. f ,i y\jmi^. cent hues as one sees nowhere else, save off the golden isle. This liay of Sendai is rather off the tourist's usual land oute, and of the other two most famous scenic resorts in Japan, Ama-no-hashidate is still further off the route on the west coast, and Miyajima, the sacred isle of the Inland Sea, is not seen from the mail steamer's route. Letting Kinkwazan fade away in the twilight, the Empress sights Fuji yama at daybreak, and as the sun springs from its ocean nest and gilds the seaward slopes, the ship rounds Cape King, passes FUJIYAMA, Sagami and Kanons: ki lighthouses on the left, and the bugle call announcing the arrival in port often disturbs the breakfast table. In her " Flying Trip Around the World " Miss Bisland says : *' A delicate gray cloud grows up along the edge of the water, and slowly a vast conelike cumulus, a lofty, rosy cloud takes shape and form, gathers clearness of outline, deepens its hue of pink and pearl, melts softly into the gray beneath, soars sharply into the blue above, and reveals Fujiyama, the divine moimtain i * * * A moun- tain of i)ink pearl rose out of the sea ; and when the gray clouds about its base resolved themselves into land we found that they were the green hills of fairyland. * * * We rose up and perceived that we had come to Fan Land — to the Islands of Porcelain — to Shikishima, the country A.MONli THE TIIOrSANl) riNKCI.Al) ISLANDS, MATSfSlIlM A. of chrysanthemums. The place across whose sky the storks always fly by day, and the ravens l)y night — where cherry blossoms, pink and white, grow out of nothing at all to (.lecorate the k)reground, and where ladies wear their eyes looped up in the corners, and gowns in which it is so impossible that any two-legged fem;iU' should walk, that they pass tiieir lives siniHng and motionless on scri'ens and jars. \Viien l'"ujiyama's pearly cone has grown from a pin point's size to a majestic peak, and the steamer coursing uj) the picturesipie \'eddo Bay has made fast at the company's buoy in Yokohama harbor, Japan to I t-r.-v '4 encircles one. Steam launches bear down upon the arriving ship and carry passengers and mails ashore. Sampans crowd about the steerage gangway, and the native boatmen and their queer, clean craft are seen in all their pictures(iueness. " It is YOKOHAMA. like the picture books," wrote John La Farge in his " Artist Letters."* " The sea was smooth like the brilliant blank paper of the prints ; a vast surface of water reflecting the light of the sky as if it were thicker air. Far off streaks of blue light, like finest washes of the brush, determined distances. Beyond, in a white haze, the s(iuare, white sails spotted the white horizon and floated above it. * * * Hills of foggy green marked the near land; nearer us, junks of the shapes you know, in violet transparency of shadow, and five or six war- ships and steamers, red and black or white, looking barbarous and out of place, but still as if they were part of us ; and spread all around us a fleet of small boats, manned by rowers standing in robes flapping about them, or tucked in above their waists. There were so many that the crowd looked blue and white — the color of their dresses repeat- ing the sky in prose. Still, , the larger part were mostly naked, and their legs and arms and backs made a great novelty to our eyes, accustomed to nothing but our ship and the enormous space, empty of life, which had surrounded us for days. The muscles of the boatmen stood out sharply on their small frames. They had almost all — at least those who were young — fine wrists and delicate hands, and a handsome setting of the neck. The foot looked broad, with toes very scpiare. I'hey were excitedly waiting to hel|) in the coaling and unloading, and soon we saw them begin to work, carry- ing great loads with much gootl-humored chattering. Around us played the small- est boats, with rowers stand- ing uj) and sculling. Tiien the market boat came rush- ing to us, its standing rowers bending and rising, their thighs nxMuling ;ni(l insteps sharpening, what small gar- ♦ Century Magazine, i8yo. i ^■ '**■:■?! ..-( , Of that beloved naJonal llower I'ercival Lowell ^""X®j?ni"^" MUM SHOW says : "The symmetry of its shape well fits it to symboli/e the complete- ness of perfection winch the Mikado, the Son of Heaven, numdanely represents. It typifies, too, tlie fullness of the year. It may i)e of almost any hue, and within the general limits of a circle of any form. Now it is a chariot wheel with pi-tals for spokes ; now a ball of fire with lambent tongues of llame ; while another kind seems llie l)Utton of some natural legion of honor, and still aiu)ther a pin-whccl in Nature's own day '"'reworks." 37 Besides the curio shops on the Nakadori and the Nishi Nakadori there are many similar shops scattered throughout the city. A guide will ciuickly arrange for a dinner in Japanese style at some tea-house, and engage jugglers, or maiko and geisha (professional dancers and singers), to entertain the company between the courses. In Tokio and in Yokohama are agencies for the sale of the creamy- toned mulberry writing paper manufactured by the government Insatsu- Kioku Paper Mills at Oji. The heavy wall paper, imitating the richest stamped leather, is manufactured at the Insatsu-Kioku works adjoining the Ministry of Finance, but none of it is sold in Japan, all going to agents in foreign countries. There is no accepted drive or promenade where the great world of Tokio gathers for its afternoon airing, no Rotten Row nor particular boulevard. Any day the Emperor and his suite may pass by, but each spring and autumn the sovereign and the court lend splendor to the review of troops held at the Aoyama or Hibiya parade ground. At the Kudan and Uyeno race tracks high life and sporting circles meet in spring and autumn. v..^.J I VIII. Nikko, the site of the most splendid temples in Japan, and a moun- tain refuge of great popularity in midsummer, is reached by railway in five hours from Tokio. On the return one may take jinrikisha to Utsonomiya and ride for twenty-three miles down an avenue lined with ancient cryptomeria trees. Suzuki's hotel, in the village, the new Nikko Hotel across the river adjoining the temi)le grounds, Aral's and Kanaya's NIKKO, hotels in the upper village, will lodge the traveler. In ^■TEMPLES^ ^''^^ '''^^' '^^' '"'^^' ^'^'"^ '''^^' ^^^^ g^^'>ii temples and the tombs of the Shoguns. [yeyasu and lyeniitsu ; take the woodland walk around the sacred hill ; cross the river by the upper bridge and see the ancient images lining the bank ; see the sacred Red Bridge and choose souvenirs in the pretty village shops. A small admission tee is charge(l at each temple. A score of writers 38 J * $ i beside Dr. Dresser have found words inadequate to describe these "shrines as glorious in color as the Alhambra in the days of its splendor, and yet with a thousand times the interest of that beautiful building." To quote again that poetic word-painter, Percival Lowell : " At the farther end rises a building, the like of which for richness of effect you have probably never beheld nor even imagined. In front of you a flight of white stone steps leads up to a terrace whose parai)et, also of stone, is diapered for half its height and open lattice work the rest. This i)iazza gives entrance to a building or set of buildings whose every detail challenges the eye. Twelve j^illars of snow-white wood sheathed in part with bronze, arranged in four rows, make, as it were. INNEK (lATE OF IVKMITSll TlCMl'IK, NIKkU. 39 the bones of the structure. The space between the centre columns Hes open. 'J'he other triplets are webbed in the middle, and connected on the sides and front by grilles of wood and bronze, forming on the outside a couple of embrasures on either hand the entrance, in which stand the guardian Nio, two colossal demons, (log and Magog. Instead of capi- tals a frieze bristling with Chinese lions protects the top of the pillars. Above this in place of entablature rise tier upon tier of decoration, each tier projecting beyond the one beneath, and the topmost of all terminat- ing in a balcony which encircles the whole second story. The parapet of this balcony is one mass of ornament, and its cornice another row of lions, brown instead of white. The second story is no less crowded with carving. Twelve pillars make its ribs, the spaces between being filled with elaborate woodwork, while on top rest more friezes, more cornices, clustered with excrescences of all colors and kinds, and guarded by lions innumerable. To begin to tell the details of so multi-faceted a gem were artistically impossible. It is a jewel of a thousand rays, yet whose beauties blentl into one, as the prismatic tints combine to white. And then, after the first dazzle of admiration, when the si)irit of curiosity urges you to penetrate the centre aisle, lo and behold, it is but a gate ! The dupe of unexpected splendor, you have been paying court to the means of approach. It is only a portal after all. For as you pass through you catch a glimpse of a building beyond more gorgeous still. Like in general to the first, unlike it in detail, resembling it only as the mistress may the maid. But who shall convince of charm by enumerat- ing the features of a face ! From the tiles of its terrace to the encrusted gables that drape it as with some rich bejeweled mantle, falling about it in the most graceful of folds, it is the very Eastern Princess of a build- ing, standing in the majesty of her court to give you audience. "A pebbly i)ath, a low flight of stone steps, a pause to leave your shoes without the sill, and you tread in the twilight of reverence upon the moss-like mats within. The richness of its outer ornament, so im- pressive at first, is, you discover, but prelude to the lavish luxury of its interior. Laccjuer, bronze, pigments, deck its ceiling and its sides in such profusion that it seems to you as if art had exjianded in the con- genial atmosphere into a tropical luxuiiance of decoration, and grew here as naturally on temples as in the jungle creepers do on trees." And finally, says Dr. Dresser : " I am getting weary of l)eauty. * * * I am also weary of writing of the beautiful, for I feel that any words that I can use must fail to convey any adequate idea of the conscien- tiousness of the work, the loveliness of the compositions, the harmoni- ousness of the colors, and the beauty of the surroundings here before me ; and yet the adjectives which I have tried to heap one upon another, in the hope of conveying to the reader what I — an architect and orna- mentist — feel when contemplating these matchless shrines, must appear, I am afraid, altogether unreasonable." Thousands of pilgrims visit the region each summer, and the annual matsuri occurs in September, L/^i^E It is a pleasant excursion up higher in the mountains CHIUZENJI to Lake Chiuzenji, the eight miles being made on foot, AND YUMOTO. in saddle ox ku rum a. Crossing the lake by boat an(l following the road for six miles, Yumoto, a favorite watering i)lace, is 40 i \ I ■ V THE WALLS OF THE IVEYASU TEMPLE, NIKKO. reached. There one may spend the night anil return to Nikko the fol- lowing day in time for a second visit to the temi)les, which is much more satisfactory than the first bewiklering ghmpses. Returning from Nikko by train the tourist interested in silk culture may change at Oyama, take train for xMaebashi and the'ice by jinrikisha seven miles, reach Ikao, the centre of the Joshu silk dis.rict. 'rhere are excellent hotels in foreign style and hot mineral baths which attract many of the better class of Japanese who, to cure their ills, spend whole days in the pools with floating tables before them on which they write, play games and eat. The village street is lineil with charming little wooden-ware shops ; Ikao's confections are renowned ; there are mag- nificent views from every part of the village, and the neighborhood offers 41 many excursions. A good walker, indifferent to a little hardship, may get quite off the beaten track by crossing the mountains to Nikko by the Ashiwokaido, a distance of sixty-eight miles. No one should attempt it without a guide, and ladies not at all. Rice cultivation is everywhere to be seen in city suburbs, beside rail- roads and highways, and one soon grows familiar with the flooded fields, the level patches of intensely green spears, or the stacks and festooned fringes of ripened grain. Tea plantations are seen all along the line of the Tokaido Railway, and in the great tea districts south of Kioto. The firing and packing for export may be witnessed at any of the many tea-firing go-downs in Yokohama or Kobe.* Taking train to Awomori at the extreme north end of the island, the tourist may cross to Hokodate and in short excursions reach Aino vil- lages where remnants of the conquered aborigine people of Japan are fast dying out. ,' IX. In traveling by railway between Tokio and Kioto, the traveler may make the journey between early morning and midnight of the same day, or break the long ride by stopping over night at Shid- SHIDZUOKA. zuoka or Nagoya and seeing these provincial capitals. There are no sleeping cars, and in the tourist's favorite seasons, the passenger is not always sure of a whole sofa to himself for the night. At Shidzuoka, the hotel, in foreign style, is directly facing the station. There is an interesting old temple and the remains of the castle walls and moat to interest those who stop longer than twelve houis, and the vendors of the airy, bird-cage-like baskets, peculiar to Shid- zuoka, have learned to seek out and tempt the tou'-ist the instant he arrives. There is a twenty minutes' ride in jinrikisha from the station at Nagoya to the foreign hotel in the heart of the city. NAGOYA. The great earth'iuake of October, 1891, so twisted and wrenched the great beams of the castle keep that visitors were for the time debarred from ascending its stairways to look * See " Jinrikisli.T Days in Japan," pages 350-58. lie out upon the Owari plain and the bay of Owari. The Buddhist temple and the cloisonnee factories are the chief points for sightseers, and the streets and shops show much of Japanese life unaffected by foreign fash- ions. He who has a real interest in the land and its people will leave the beaten track at Nagoya, and crossing the bay at Yokkaichi, make a pilgrimage to the sacred shrines at Yamada in Ise, the cradle and treas- ure houses of the Shinto cult. All summer devout pilgrims tramp with jingling staffs through the sacred groves of Ise, and much of old Japan lingers in that province. X. The Canadian Pacific steamers' regular ports of call are Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki, Shanghai and Hong Kong. The tourist may proceed by fre(}uent local steamer to Kobe at KOBE. and through the Inland Sea to Nagasaki. Within twenty-four hours after leaving Yokohama such steamers enter the Inland Sea and anchor off Kobe, the foreign settlement adjoining the ancient town of Hiogo. The tourist may also reach Kobe by the CASTI.E AT NAGOVA. 43 Tokaido Railway in less time, or he may stop off at Nagoya, cross Lake JJiwa, visit Kioto, Nara and Osaka before taking ship again. Kobe-Hiogo, the second export city of the empire, with a popula- tion now exceeding 90,000, has a most pictures(]ue setting, and at night the harbor and hillsides look as if pur|)osely illuminated. 'I'he Hiogo Hotel on the Bund, the Oriental, the Hotel des Colonies and the (Ger- man (Jlub Hotel are excellently kept in foreign style. The Consulates, banks and shi|)i)ing agencies are all in the Concession, between the Hatoba and the railway. The Kobe Club is on the Recreation Oround, or foreign park, just in the rear of the Custom House. The Uoat Club further east, and fronting on the IUmcIi, has bathing barge, dressing rooms and boat-houses. The sights of the town are the Nanko Temple, the Nofukuji Temple with its colossal bronze P)uddha, and the Shinkoji Temple in Hiogo; the Ikuta Tem])le, the Nunobiki waterfalls, and the raised river bed, the Minatogawa, which is park and pleasur-.' ground for the Japanese community. The Motomachi, or main street, is a lane of delight in the way of attractive shops. Arima is a mountain village sixteen miles inland, where nearly all the bamboo baskets for the foreign trade are manufactured. Arima has also medicinal springs and is a fashionable place of resort for the rheumatic and ailing, Hideyoshi having given it \()gue centuries ago. its |)iclures(iue streets and surroundings, its shops anil workrooms easily entertain one fora day. Returning to Kobe, the traveler may take Xvcvv, or walk, to the top of Rokusan, and there enjoy a malchless viv.u of mountain, sea and plain, descend the steep road to Sumiyosl;- station and take train five miles to Kobe. Osaka is distant twenty miles f'-om Kobe by rail. 'i'vains leave hourly for Osaka and at longer intervals for Kioto, whicl. is twenty- seven miles beyond Osaka. The traveler may visit that second city of the empire, variously called the Veni(-e, the Cdasgow and the Chicago of Japan. Formerly ly call it was the military cajjital. iMuch of Japanese history lias been made within its castle, and even tbreign writers have made its romances known.* ♦ " I'lic l'siir|>cr, A Talc of llic SicHc i)f Osaka CasUc." !!>• Jiulith (iaiiticr, i'atis. J *"*• •»•». ir THE SIGHTS OF OSAKA. M The last acts of the Shogunate were played there, and with the sur- render of 1868 the Restoration began. Its 361,694 people, its three hundred bridges, its great temples and \vorkshoi)s and cotton mills, are all matters of boastful pride to those pros[)erous citizens. In one day, the traveler can easily see its more important sights : the Castle, the Tennoji 'i'emple and Pagoda, the Mint, Arsenal, Hong- wanji Temple, the Hakku lUitsu, or conunercial ba/aar, the theatre street, and the large curio sho|)s. The Hakku Hutsu is open at night, and conilensing all the shops and factories of the town in that one i)lace, one may review industrial Osaka by electric light. The labyrinthine bazaar is the delight of the Japanese, and they love to follcjw its tortuous mazes without ever an imi)ulse to turn back. There are small ones without number m every theatre region, and each city has a large bazaar imder goveriunent con- trol, wiiere goods marked in plain figiu'es are sold for a small c:()mniis- sion. There one may lind everything useful and useless, t'.ic necessities and the luxm-ies of life, newest inventions, anticpies, curios and nuich that one may never come across elsewhere. 'l"he great silk shops contain the richest fal)rics loom an■«''?: ' » 3«^ I. .- » ' \ ?|.j^;.-^^rf'i -•w^ <^ 1 '*'-i-» ftV^ /, of the city is also kept in foreign jtyle, l)ut Yaami's is historic >. ground — one of the institutions of Japan — and all must seek its verandas for the panorama of the city. Of the great temples, the Chion-in is a hillside neighbor of Vaami's, and its bronze bell, eighteen feet in length, shakes the whole hotel TEMPLES. when it rings. This, with the Kio- mid/u, Dai lUitsu, Sanjiusangendo and the two Hongwanjis, are the great Huddhist shrines. The Migashi Ilongwanji is the largest tem- ple in Japan, covering 52.3.S0 s(|uare feet of ground, and rising to a height of 1 26 feet. When completed, " = its interior will be the most splenditl in the empire, 'I'he (lion, the great Shintt) shrine, lies at the foot of Yaami's hill. After an entire morning of temples, an afternoon may be agreeably given to the great silk shops where English speaking clerks are always found. The Palace and the Nijo Castle, jiermits to visit which must be ob- tained through a Tokio legation, and the Kinkakuji (a small suburban palace, now a monastery), will occupy anotlier morning, and curio shops will beguile that afternoon. The Kinkakuji (the gold-covered pavilion) and the Oinkakuji (the silver-covered pa\ilion) are two model landscape «>vy« "r-»*'^'W,S-.".»«^"~Wf ^ TIIIC JINK I'lNIC •IHI'I' T Till'. KINKAKIJI, KIHTO, 40 gardens of Japan, after which classic desiL,ms lialf the miniature paradises of the land are airanged. lioth monas cries contain famous pictures and screens. The Kinkakuji has a sjjccial fame in possessing an ancient pine tree trained in the shape of a junk in one of its courts ; and the Ginkakuji holds the first and oldest ceremonial tea-house in Jajjan. livery visitor should walk the two bewitching streets of Teapot Hill : the one, a half-mile lane of china sh()])s leading to the Kiomidzu temi)le, and the other conducting to the Xishi Otani tem])le. Nor should he miss the lane leading through a bamboo grove that joins the two streets, nor yet the sho])-lined staircase that takes him to the foot of the Vasaka pagoda. A favorite excursion is to 'I'akao. on the Oigawa, where the traveler takes ilatboat and shoots the rapids of that river, and resumes jinrikisha at Arashiyama, a southwestern suburb of Kioto. If not too many, the jinrikishas may be taken in the boat or another boat hired for them. Three or four yfn are asked for each boat and the ])assage is made in less than two hours. Lmicheon may be taken from the hotel, or the rilH MAIKODdKI — I IIKKKV lil.OSSOM DANcK AT KKITO. tourist may feast at the Arashiyama tea-house. Arashiyama is the Kioto synonym for clu'iry blossoms, and all the geishas in the empire have a dance that tells of cherry blossoming by the Oigawa. In April these hillsides rival the rosy slopes of Maruyama, where that enormous old cherry tree at the foot of \'a;imi's lane has drawn worshipping crowds for three hundred years. While il blimms. a gala season reigns and the great dancing fete, the Mi.ikodori, goes on at the neighboring geisha s( hool. The visitor may now reach Nara by railway. It is but twenty-six miles, the roads are perfet-l. the ( ouiitry picluresi|ue, tin- wayside full of interest, and all the ground historic, while in the cherrv blossom and wistaria season a visit to Nara nara. should never be omitted. The road runs through till' famous Vaiuashiro lea district, and Uji, the chief town, is alsvays iVa- 47 gram with tiie loastinj,' leaf. Tlie Phconix 'I'emplc near Lji was reproduced at the C'hicaj^ci Kxposition, 1893. The Musashino tea-house on tlie liill between the two temple grounds, and the ()\a in the town, are the best tea-houses at Nara, and there is also a hotel in foreign style. The Dai liutsu Temple contains a bronze statue of lUiddha fifty- three and a half feet in height, and at tlie Kasuga Temple the young Shinto priestesses will perform the sacred dance after the visitor has made a gift of one or more yrn to the temple. 'I"he tame deer that roam these temjjle grounds, and even the village streets, will come at call iand eat from one's hand. There is a railway from Nara \.o Osaka, and re\ersing the trip, 1 j the traveler, who has a passport for Nara, may run up iVom Osaka [] in a little over an hour, give two or four liours to the tem|)le \t grounds, and if the guide has provided a titifin, picnic at one Jf:'\ of the pictures(|ue /(//<■/'()' or wayside tea-sheds among the ancient trees and lanterns. XII. Speed is not a consideration for the Noyage be- ) tween Kobe and Nag.isaki, a distance (}f ^.Sq miles. The way lies in and out among the islands of tlie In- land Sea, the most |)ictures(|iie stretch of enclosed oct'an ; an ideal, poetic region, whi're even the huge steamshi); si-ems to lloat eiK hauled, and all the sea and sky and shores are a day- dream. Silently the ship threads the narrowest of channels; s(|uare-sailed junks lloat by; .iS YA8AKA I'AllllUA. t t 5^8* towns, villages, castles, temples, forests, cultivated vales antl terraced hills, sliarply-cut i)eaks and low-running mountain chains succeed one another for a whole day. I'he railway is completed from Kobe to Hiroshima, the nuval station in the Inland Sea, and near it is the sacred island of Miyajima, 'vith its torii built far out in the water, all its shores lined with stone lanterns, and tame deer roaming among its wistaria-entangled groves as at Nara. No one iia;; been born nor lias any one died on this sacred island, and its summer matsuris are feasts of lanterns and of [)ictur- esijueness outdoing those of all other shrines. Those who would cruise in this en- """ -^ -• ■ ' -^"^ chanting sea may easily charter at Kobe small steamers, accommodating from five to ten persons, for $50 and $60 a week, the lessee providing coal and provisions. Six weeks is the usual time given to a leisurely cruise mi the Inland Sea, but in these days, tourists boast of doing it all within a fortnight. At Shimonoseki, the ship passes the last narrow gateway and goes out to the open ocean for a short stretch, after which its route is close inshore, behind a chain of islands, to NAGASAKI. Fishing boats dot the water, villages and terraced fields break the shoreline, and the .\rched Rock is always pointed out. The ship threads a narrow entrance and passes uj) the long fiord to Nagasaki, a harbor ranking with Sydney and Rio de Janeiro for pic- 'i^ 1- .*. <^ \f -J^.. \jto und, the Rellevue and Smith hotels are near the Hatoba, and the Club is on the IJund, at the foot of the hillside set apart for the foreign residents. TIIIC WATliK i;AT1C at MIVAJIMA TICMM.ES — INLAND SEA. The O'Suwa is the great tem]<.j and is surrounded by a public park. Near it is a general bazaar, a smaller edition of Osaka's great industrial aggregation, and there are many other such commercial mazes in the town. 'I'he porceliin, the Koransha, or Deshima, bazaar is housed in buildings erected by the I)ut<:h in the long ago, when they lived as jjrisoners on this walled and bridge-guarded island — all for the sake of a trade monopoly. Tiie wares made at Arita, in this same province of Hizen, are brought to Deshima by junk, and one has choice of many beautiful designs rarely met in tiie foreign market. 30 The carving and fashioning of tortoise-shell articles occupies many artisans, and one may look into many shops where the busy workers are sawing, cutting, carving and polishing the ^ shell. Much imitation shell is palmetl off upon the un- ■- initiated, but one may choose his shell and watch his , work begun, and, if he stays in port any time, follow its daily progress. *k Pierre Loti has so charmingly described many Na- gasaki scenes in " Mme. Chrysantheme," that its readers will easily identify his locale. In Nagasaki begins that pretty little romance, "The Viewing of the Cherry lilossoms." Many visitors have been tempted to linger at Nagasaki, visit the Springs a few miles inland, the (juaint villages along the deeply inde c;oast, and, by railway, see Kumamoto's nne old castle, and Kagosh capital of the province of Satsuma. j4.;tij.„^ Hot nted ima, XIII. \ ^„^ At Nagasaki, the zealous traveler, who would see North China '^* • and a little of Korea, may diverge from the route of the Canadian Pacific steamers. He may also take ship there for Vlatlivostock, the terminus of the trans-Siberian railway, should he i)refer a land route to Murope. Emliarking in a Nippon Yusen Kaislia steamer he may visit Fusan and (lensan on the east coast of Korea, and, stopping at Chemulpo, go by the new railway, twenty-six miles inland, to the c:apital, Seoul. There is a Japanese hotel in foreign style — the Dai liutsu — at Chemulpo. The proprietor will arrange for the journey and confide the tourist to the care of the Japanese tea house in Seoul. The sights of Seoul, other than its i)ictures(]ue street life, are few and far between. One looks at the eight gateways in the city wall — which are the gates and walls of Peking in miniature — at the in seoul. palace gates, the marl)le jjagoda and the bell tower in the city. \Vithout the walls there is the boulder image of l^uddha to the northwest ; the temple and tomb of (^ueen Chung at the southwest ; the temple to the Chinese Cod of War in the same suburb, and the village of Buddhist p.riests northeast of the city. Permission ir.ay sometimes be obtained from the Foreign Office to visit the abandoned palace, whose neglected buildings and pleasure grounds give an idea of the occupied palace. At rare intervals the king passes through the streets of the city, and the procession accompanying him is not like anything else to be seen in this century — a pageant unchanged in details since the middle ages. The streets are filthy, the houses mean and wretched, the people indolent, poor and unambitious ; a crushed and spiritless race, who for centuries paid tribute to China and Japan to be let alone. CHEFOO. From Chemulpo the steamers next go to Chefoo, the watering-place and summer resort for the foreign residents in China, and the chief port of the rich province of Shantung. From the Taku forts at the mouth of the Peiho River, Tien Tsin is SOI TH l.ATK AT SKOIL. distant twenty-five miles in air line, but by the tortuous course of the muddy ri\er it is sixty miles. J.anding on the north bank just within the fort, the traveler is conveyed by railway to Tien Tsin, or may pro- ceed by rail in the opposite direction to Shanhaikwan, on the coast, where theCreat Wall of China comes down to the sea. The Cdobe and tj-.e Astor hotels are on the river banks at Tien Tsin, After seeing the interesting native city, tiie walls of the viceroy's yaamen, and the few sights of Tien Tsin, the trip to Peking may be undertaken. I 53 A Chinese guide or boy can 1. engaged at eitlier hotel, and as the railway now covers the eighty miles between Tien Tsin and Peking in a iew hours his duties are less than in house-boai days, when all trav- ellers did exactly as Marco Polo did six centuries ago. The IjC'V is paid from fifty cents to one dollar (Mexican) a day, and no other charges or allowances are made, save as the regular PEKING. present at the end of his service. The railway stopS;PUt- side the city walls, and there is a three-mile ride in cart or sedan, or on donkey, to the hotel on Legation Street, crossing the Chinese City and passing through two great gateways. The railway cars are rough and bare of comforts and always crowded with Chinese passengers of every class who smoke continuously, and native management gives foreign visitors much to criticise. The springless Peking mule carts with their iron bound wheels treat the tourist to a new surprise, and traversing roads that are only ruts in soft soil or troughs of mud, according to the season, leave him well battered and bruised at the end of three miles. At Peking, there is the excellent Hotel de Peking, kept in foreign style, where every comfort is secured, and every information and assist- ance given the visitor, for the consideration of six Mexican dollars a day. The foreign legations are all near by in the one fjuarter in the Tartar City, within the second wall, and the Liu li Chang, the booksellers' street, where the silk and curio, and other shops generally attractive* to the tourists are centered, is near the gate. One may use bank-notes in Peking, and drafts are cashed at the banks, but otherwise he pays in cas/i, the round brass coins with a hole in the middle, of which from nine to twelve hundred make one Mexican dollar. Prices are also quoted to him in /uc/s and sycecs, the latter lumps of silver whose value is determined by weight at each transaction. The /ae/ averages in value at 1 1.35 Mexican. At several places in the neighborhood of the legations, one may, by giving the guards a couple of hundred tras/i, mount the wall, walk there undisturbed, and get a view of the city's diflerent quarters. Within the first or outer wall, thirty miles in circumference, is the Chinese City, within the next circle is the Tartar City, thei. the Imperial City and the Purple I-'or- bidden City, where the yellow-tiled palace roofs of the Emi)eror's habitation show above the trees of the park. In Peking streets, Chinese, Manchus, Mongols from the desert, Thibetans, Koreans and every jieople of A'^ia j(wtle together, camel trains, carts, mule litters, sedans and wheelbarrows crowd the way, and the din and the picturescnieness confuse and l)ewilder one. The sights of Peking are lessening in number each year because of the authorities closing show jjlacx's to foreigners. The Sunnner Palace, without the walls, destroyed by the French in 1861, is now being rebuilt, and is closed to visitors. The Temi)le of Heaven, where the Lmperor annually worships, was biu'ned a few years since, but its ruins and the other temples within its park are interesting. The Confucian Temple, the 1 iall of Classics and the I'^amination Hall, where the students assem- ble every year to strive for rank and honors, are also to be seen. The old observatory on the walls, the Mohammedan mos(]ue, the Catholic cathedral and college, the foreign mission establishments and the 53 ON THE WALLS. STKEET IN A CIIINESR CITV. S4 Lamasery are other places to be visilcil. There are 1500 priests at the Lamasery, and one mnst not only bribe larLjely to gain admittance, but usually pay to get out. The tourist should by no chance go out alone or without his Chinese boy. it is a four days' trip to visit the Great Wall of China, returning by the way of the tombs of the Ming emperors. The trip is made on ponies, or in mule litters, the latter rented at the rate the of one and a half Mexican dollars a day. Outside great wall of Peking all payments are made in cash. At the inns Of china. only the bare room is supplied, the traveler providing his own bedding and food. The Chinese pay 150 cash for the night's lotlging. the for- eigner usually pays 500 cash, including tips. A hard and fast bar- gain must be made before entering the inn, and the landlord will relent before the obdurate traveler can go many steps away. At Nan- kov, whence a gcxjd road leads to the gateway in the Creat Wall in the Nankov Pass, and at Kalgan and Cha Tao, villages nearest to the Great Wall, are good inns. A two-mule cart for the servant and luggage is provided at the rate of two Mexican dollars for each day. The splendid tombs of the Ming emperors are visited on the return from the Great Wall, and also t'he temples among the hills where the foreign legations are housed in midsummer. The average cost of the trip from Tien Tsin to Peking and return, including the guide, carts, litters and one week's stay at the Hotel de Peking, is i)ut at one hundred Mexican dollars for each person. The trip to Peking affords more novelty, strangeness and incident iluui any other on the coast, and no one who can command the two or three weeks' time should miss taking it. May and October, the latter espe- cially, are the best months, as the summers are intensely hot and dry, the winters cold, and there is a rainy season in spring, when the streets are in their worst condition. i XIV. When the Canadian Pacific steamers have stopped at Kobe and threaded the Inland Sea, but a day intervenes from Nagasaki when across the turbid waters of the Yellow Sea there shows a low brown line, the outermost edge, the farthest rim^^*^ "'"^ CHINA of the old, mysterious continent of Asia, the real Cathay. Nearer still, trees show like a mirage on the water ; then masts of ships and trails of smoke tell of the unseen river wMniling behind those trees. Junks with laced brown sails go by, huge eyes painted at the bows, for "If no have eye, how can see go?" and dirty, fierce- visaged, pig- tailed crews peer from the litter of matting and bamboo poles. Along the banks are high-walled villages, and the smooth-skinned water buffaloes wallow in the mud below them. The fields are so dotted with round, bake-oven graves as to look like a gigantic prairie-dog town, and toilers are everywhere. The arms of the signal station at the mouth of the Yang-tse Kiang wave, and the telegraph carries the news of the shi[)'s arrival to Shang- hai, and launches start to meet it at the Woosung liar. This is the " Heavenly Barrier," which the Chinese made more effectual than '^ver, 55 during the French war of 1884, by sinking stone-loaded junks across all but one narrow, shallow channel. Twenty years ago there was a railway from Woosung thirteen miles to Slianghai, but the Chinese bought it at a great advance, tore up the rails and threw them with the locomotives into the river. Approached from the river, this largest foreign settlement of the Far East, the commercial capital of North China, presents an imposing ap- pearance. Massive six-story, stone buildings front the SHANGHAI, long Bund, and the compounds of the imposing Jap- anese and German Consulates are alignci on the Hong- kew side, the old American Settlement. Across the c^^f k bridge are the pubHc gardens, the park surrounding the British Consulate and the commercial heart of the city. Further up the water front, the (juais and rues of the French Settlement, the blue and white signs at each street corner might be corners of Paris itself. The Astor House and the Hotel des Colonies are the leading hotels. The Club is on the Bund in the English Settlement, and there is the Country Club a few miles out on the Bubbling Well Road, to which ladies be- long as well as men, where every one who is any one meets for summer tennis, the afternoon dan- ces, theatricals and balls of the winter season. The spring and autumn races of the Jockey Club attract crowds from all the outports, and much money changes hands. Shanghai social life is formal, exacting, elaborate and ex- travagant. ']"he local sights and shows are easily seen in a day. No matter how warm the former friendship may have been, or how powerful the letters of introduction, never ask a resident of a Chinese port to accompany you to a native city \ nor talk to him about the excur- sion afterwards. The resilient may tell you that he has never been in the Chinese city ; or that he went once ten or twenty years ago. His compradore or house boy will find a friend, or the ever-ready cousin, to act as guide. lOntering by the north gate, at the end of the French Settlement, the visitor may balance him- self on one of the passenger wlieelbarrows and be trundled around the walls to the west or south gate and then walk through the city to the north gate. He will see the streets of silk, fur, china and other shops, anil such swarms of people in the seven-foot wide thoroughfares and side crev- ices, as supporl the estimate of 400,000 inhabitants. He must 56 CHINESE I'ACiODA. see the Mandarins' Club, or tea garden, the jewelers' guildhall, where there is a continuous auction, and the temple in the midst of a serpentine pond approached by many crooked bridges, the veritable landscape immortalized on " willow pattern " plates. Around the pond are outdoor jugglers, fortune tellers, story tellers, menders, barbers and dentists plying their trades, and the din of voices and crowding of the people soon drive him on. In the foreign city, there are handsome shops on Honan Road and the Maloo, There is a Chinese theatre in the quarter near the city walls, and gorgeous costuming is the redeeming point in its deafening dramas. Many Chinese prefer to dwell in that corner of the foreign settlement, where they are amenable to foreign laws and a just taxation, and where offenses are tried in the Mixed Court, which is composed of a Chinese magistrate sitting with two members of the consular board. Rich Chinese come to Shanghai from all the back provinces to spend their money. The three drives of Shanghai are out the Bubbling Well Road and back, out the Sickaway Road and back, and down the river to the Point and back. Very interesting is a trip by house-boat through the network of rivers, creeks and canals that cover the country. On the boat one '•ves as luxuriously as on shore, and Shanghai is an epicure's and sybarite's abode. Notice of the departure of steam launches for Woosung are always posted at the consulates, hotels and club, and information of such de- partures may be had from the agents of the Canadian Pacific Company's agents, Messrs. Jardine, Matheson & Co. There is now a government post-otfice department in China, but each consulate has a post-office of its own in Shanghai, and sells its own postage stamps and despatches mails. From Shanghai, a most interesting trip may be made up the Yang-tse River, one of the world's greatest streams, which rises in the high plains of Thibet, known as " The Roof of the World," and flows for three thousand miles to the sea. Luxuriously appointed steamers run between Shanghai and the great tea port of Hankow, touching on the way at Chinkiang, Kiukiang and Nankin, and traversing a carefully cultivated garden all the way. Ivich town has its interesting pagodas and temples ; the river banks present an unceasing pano- rama of native life, and the water populations add to the picturesqueness and interest. Each town has its specialties in artistic products : silks, silverware, fans, porcelain and faience, and the black tea crop of the empire is raised and curetl along this river. Russian and l''.nglish buyers take neaily all of the Hankow tea and little goes to the United States or Canada, where the oolongs and greener teas of South China and of Japan are chiefly consumed. At Hankow, the traveler may take steamer for Ichang, still further up the river, from which he may easily reach the fcnous gorge of the Yang-tse and the first and second rajjids, a succes- sion of stupendous caiions through which the great stream races madly. A sportsman will find the Chinese house-boat the epitome of com- fort and luxury, and while sailing and tracking along the ujiper reaches of the river may treat himself to the finest pheasant shooting in the POSTAL AR- RANGEMENTS. TEA DISTRICTS. J> 57 world. Wild boars abound in the hills near Chinkiang and at other places, and the natives usually welcome the hunters who destroy these dej)redators of their fields and flocks. The recent anti-foreign riots are warning, liowever, that the tourist should be well-informed before leav- ing foreign settlements on any hunting trip. At Foochow, there is the Chinese arsenal and navy yard, and usually some of its European-built men-of-war are to be seen. The river life will interest the waiting voyagers, but shops antl special- FOOCHOW. ties are few. The villas of tlie foreign residents are hidden in the dense foliage of the hillside. All that hill is covered with graves, and at night, the fitful glow of the chair-bearers' lamps among the shadows is strangely weird. At Amoy, there is a picturescjue, junk-crowded harbor. In the season, loads of tea are constantly arriving from Tamsui and other ports on the hardly-explored island of Formosa, whose pirates AMOY. and savages make its name a reproach along the China coast. From orchard;; u|) the river come the choicest pumeloes, tliat most delicious of citrus fruits, which, transplanted, as the shaddock, in the western hemisphere, greatly deteriorates. Amoy pume- loes and the Amoy grass cloth are both superior specialties of the place. XV. A blue, blue sea, a barren, brown coast, mountains of burnt rock rising sheer from the ex<|uisite sapphire waters, and, MONO KONG. sli|)ping through thai veritable needle''^ eye of the Ly- moon Pass, the big, white steamer sweeps into the splentlid amphitheatre of Hong Kong harl)or, a watery arena thronged with merchantmen and men-of-war of all nations. Steam launches carry the cabin passengers ashore, and sampans swarm by hundreds, each boat manned by a shrill-voiced woman, who steers, sculls, cooks, manages her children, drives the bargains, and, with her sister boatwomen, c-hatters incessantly. Situatetl on the steep slope of a mountain. Hong Kong, as it rises from the sea, and terrace l)y terrace climbs the eighteen hundretl feet to the summit of the Pe.ik, is most imposing and beautifiil. .Again, the white houses seem to l)e slipi)ing down tiie bold hillside and spreading out at the water's edge in a frontage of more than three miles. 'I'he lines of two viaducts — the Howen and Kennedy Roads, as those high promenades are named for two favorite governors of the colony — draw wh.ie 'loronals aroimd the brow of the mountains, and terraced roads band the hillside with long white lines. All the luxuriant green of the slojjes is due to man's agency, and since the island was ceded to l''ng- land, in 1.S41. ali\)restation has been the great work ..nd a miracle wrought. A (able road connnuni(~ates with the Peak, and at night, when rhe harbor is brigiu with myriad lights and trails of phosphores- cetK e, :md the whole si >,)e glows ,\t]i\ twinkles with eU-ctricilv. gas and oil, tiie lights of the cable cars are fiery beads slipping up and down an invisible cord. 'J'he city of Victoria, on the island of Hong Kong, is a British colony 1 4 • ; ' (y . 1 all to itself, with a colonial governor and staff maintaining a small court and a high social tribunal in its midst. It is also the naval station for the Uritish Asiatic tleet, and th^ V'^"*"*^"'^ ^'"'■^• docks, arsenal and fountlries in the colony ami on the opposite Kowloon shore turnish every numition and re(|uirement for war or peace. A large garrison of troops furtiier declares Uritish might, and Hong Kong, tlie (lil)raltar of the Mast, is an impregnable fortress, and a safeguard to all Asia. The length of the island of Hong Kong is eleven miles, and its width varies from two to four miles. There are less than 10,000 lMn"opeans in the colony, but a Chinese jjopulation of 200,000 has settled around them, although really cc^nfmed to the western end of the lower le\els of the town. A jinrikisha ride down the Praya and the ()ueen's Road will con- vince one that the figures of the Chinese population are put too low, if anjthing. Over 20,000 Chinese live on the harbor-boats besides. Landing at Pedder's Wharf, the traveler is almost at his hotel door, unless he should arrive during summer, when the hotels at the Peak will be his refuge. One entrance of the Hong Kong Hotel is (jn (Jiueen's Road, and near it is the Clock Tower, from which all distances are measured. The Hong Kong Club, the Cerman Club, and the i,uisitano or Portuguese Club, the Post-Office, and the Hong Kong and Shanghai Hank are all in the iunnediate neighborhood of the Clock Tower. I''rom that ])oint v.'cstward, there is a continuous arcade of shops wherein all the arts and industries of South China are exhibited, and one may buy silks, crapes, ivory, lacquer, porcelain, carved teakwood and bamboo wares ail the way. The streets swarm with a motley crowd — Jews, Turks, Mohamme- dans, I'airopeans, Hindoos, Javanese, Japanese, Malays, Parsees, Sikhs, Cingalese, Portuguese, half-castes, and everywhere the hard-featured Chinese coolies, carrying poles, buckets, baskets and sedans, or trotting clumsily before a more clumsy jinrikisha. .\n Indian (cr*///, swathed in white, desi-ends the long stairway of a side street ; a Sikh policeman stands Siatuesijue and im|)erial at a corner; a professional mender, with owlish spectacles, sits by her baskets of rags, darning and patching; a barber drops his pole and boxes and begins to operate upon a customer ; rows of coolies sitting against some greasy wall submit their he;ids to one another's i'riendly attentions ; a grouj) of pig-tailed youngsters play a sort of shuttlecock with iheir feet ; peddlers split one's ears with tlu'ir yells ; iire-(-rackers sputter and bang tlu'ir appeals to joss ; and from the liarbor comes the boom of naval salutes for some arriving man-ot'-war, the admiral, govern^M", or a consul paying ship visits. Such, the con- staiu, bewildering panorama of (^)ueen's Road, the Praya and other thoroughfares, busiest and most cosmopolitan of highways, when' the Ivist aiid the West touch hands — .\sia, Australia, ( )ceanica, I'luiope and America meet and mingle tinconcernedly. 'I'he traveler should see the City I hill and its museum, and take a jinrikisha ride past the barracks to the Race Course in Happy N'alley, and visit the Jewish, Parsee. Mohammedan, .\nglican and Catholic cemeteries which surround the great oval pleasaunce. Race week is in February, and is the gala time of the Hong Kong year. 59 The grounds about Government House and the Botanical Gardens are the pride of the colony, and l)anyan-shaded roads, clumps of palms, blooming mimosas, and the wealth of strange, luxurious growths, give the tropical setting to every scene. There is a handsome cathedral below Government House. To ascend to the higher roads, one is carried up those stone, or cement staircases of side streets in sedan, or hill chairs. There is a regular tariff of fares, but there is always a discussion at settlement. No one should attempt to underpay a coolie. To pay the exact fore generally rouses i)rotest, and to untlerpay them brings bedlam about one's ears. Jinrikishas are supposed to be fifteen cents an hour, or fifty cents a day. Ciiairs cost ten cents an hour for each bearer, or twenty cents an hour altogether. The completion of the cable road to the peak has fortunately done away with much of the chair-riding. The universal pigeon-Knglish is understood, but a small vocabulary of Chinese words suffices for sedan conversation, as lie (piick, hurry up. ]5e careful, look out. Come here. Don't do that. Stop. Wait a little. That will do. Fie tee. See sum. lAee >ie shu. Af-Iio fso. Afiiii-maii. Toni:;/te yut sum. Tos tuck /ok. More often the bearers rap the ])oles for one to sit still and keep the balance evenly, or to sit more towards one side or the other. Tiie j)assenger raps the i)oles n-hen he wishes to stop, and raps the right or the left pole as he may wish to be set down at one or the other side of the street. One (piickly ])icks up a few words of pigeon-English, and finds tnaskee for all right, go ahead, agreed, never mind, etc., a most useful word. T(>/^ si(fe for up-stairs ; /^/,/i^/n for business, affairs, conc-erns ; e/i<>/> e/io/> for right away, 7i>, tor tood ; pieeee Un- thing or 'article; sit/e for i)lace, region, home, country, etc. ; ea/i/i for fetch, carry, get, bring and buy, are the most commonly used in one's hearing, and are so (|ui('kly adopted in speech tliat ;it fu'st one cannot utter a lorrect Mnghsli phrase, owing to the C(M'rupting spell of pidgm. XVI, In two liours one may go from Hong Kong to Macao, a three- cenlurv-old Tortuguese town on die niainhmd, sec its ancient forts, tht gardi'us and grotto where Camoens wrote his poems; WAYS OF \vat(h the white and Chinese gamblers in this Monte LOCOMOTION. (,^i.,^^ of the Kar I'.ast ; view the loading .)f opiinn cargoes ; rest at an i-xcellent hotel, and enjoy the sea baths. One dav is (juite enough for the ordinary traveler to give to Canton sights and sounds. The night boat from I long Kong will ( arry him tin- tu'nely miles up tlu' \\'\\\\ \{\\vx to that city ol tliii'i" MACAO. million inhabitants, and by daylight the din ol" diat man\' voices will rea)■ the long, thin tail curled like a grape tendril, to be the rat. The rat is in the market ever\ where, alive in cages, fresh or dried on meat-shop counters, and dried ones are often bought as souvenirs of a day in Canton and proof of the often denied rat story. 'I'healres are many ; shops of theatrical wardrobes are endless in one ([uarter ; deaU'rs in old costumes abound, and there are pawn shops and curio shops without end. The law allows no street to be less than seven feet in width, and some do not exceed it. Down these narrow lanes, with malted awnings overhead, between swinging black, gold and vermilion signboards, the people swarm. Two chairs can barely pass. 'I'o turn some sharj) ( orners tile ])oIes are run far into thi' shops, and when a mandarin's c hair or mounted escort appears, one is hustled into an open shop t'ront, and is not safe then from the bumping and brushing of the train. It is a most bewildering, da/ing, fatiguing day. While the boat slips down the river, past the French cathedral and the bu, y W'hampoa aiuhorage, out be- fii J SAMPAN AND I'lOWirN lUlAT, CANTON. tween quiet and level fields, one can hardly remember all the sights. But he dreams of this city of Oriental riches and barbaric s[)lendor, the city of the greatest wealth and the direst poverty, and he sees again the narrow, seething thoroughfares, the bla/e of gold and vermilion, the glitter anil glow of showy interiors, where if the Queen of Sheba did not live, she certainly went a-shopping. From Hong Kong the sea ways diverge like the spokes of a wheel to all the ends of the earth, and the traveler may take ship to any country of the globe. Australia and New Zealand are on one great route of travel, and wintering there, the tourist may, at llie close of the hurricane season — February and March — make a loop through that la/y, lovely, tropical realm, the South Sea, visit Samoa, 'laiiiti and J''iji, and from Levuka take sliip back to llong Kong. Small steamers run daily to Manila, in the American East Indies, in sixty hours, and two lines of large Australian mail steamers touch regu- larly at Manila in going and coming. Much of inter- MANILA. est remains in the old Spanish walled town, and recent historv has made the environs historic. 'J"he railwav to T^agupan makes a glimpse of the provinces possible, and a boat trip up the ri\er and arouml the Laguna del IJaia will show much of real Mlipino life and i'hilippine scenery. From November to March the weather is dry and agreeably hot. l''rom Mart h to Xo\ember the great heal, the rains, the possible typhoons and always rough harbor offer few inducements to pleasure travelers. 'i'he grand route, however, is on to India, and the steamers give rest for a day at Singapore, that eipiatorial centre of the Fastern univers«., where all the wa\s of connnerce ( ross, ,ind people of all nations, bound for all the remote corners oi' tlu- globe, meet at the one famous hotel for their curries and cooling drinks. From this water crossroads he may take tht" hide tliii, ,-.i\-hour run a( ross the F<|uator to Hata\ia by almost daily steamers. Ja\'a.*\\ith its wonders of nature, the ruins of the greatest temples in the world, the monuments and relics of a past ci\ili/a- jAVA. tion, alt. acts more travelers, arclueologists anil botanists each winter, and the completion of a railway system . ♦ Sue " Jliva, 'I'llc t liililcli iif till' I'',;i>l. ( ciitmy Co.. 1S.17. 6.: :-.^'.- -.^St "is « ■ makes it possible to travel (juickly and with some comfort through its steaming forests and scorching ])lains. He may then go in the regular order to Ceylon, or, diverging, visit Rangoon on the way to Calcutta ; and in even a day in port see much of Burmese life and the living liuddhist religion of Fartlier India. At Colombo, the tourist rests again for a day and tranships, or takirg train for Kandy, climbs U) the heights, sees Adam's I'eak, liuddha's tooth, tea plantations, cinchona groves and coffee estates, and every- where may buy the delusive sapphire and cats's-eye, manufactured jjer- haps at Birriiingham for the globe-trotter trade. From Ceylon, the thon^igh-going tourist will go to '4'uticorin and Madras, and thence to Calcutta. December, January and February are the months for Indian travel. In the winter season, unfortunately, the hill stations are all but deserted, and little (jf Ruilyard Kipling's Simla can be found in that ])lace of l)arred and boarded houses ; but the Hima- layas show all their glory from the region "bout Darjheeling. As the Viceroy leaves Calcutta for Simla about March and stays tliere during the hot months, returning to Calcutta as soon as the cold season approaches, the visitor who would see all the pageantry and splendor he has imagined for the Fast, should so time his movements. From Bombay, a shi}) conveys him further on the round, and once past the Red Sea, the real Ivist is left — for Suez and the Levant are almost Furope to dwellers in Cathay — and then the Far Ivist seems indeed a (h^eam. t ^'.3 JAPANESE WORDS AND PHRASES. A few words and useful phrases in common Japanese speech may be easily learned, and will assist the tourist in tiealing with the few shop- keepers, servants and coolies who do not understand a little iMiglish. A full command of Jai)anese, with a fluency in. the polite forms of the courl language, re([uires many years to ac(iuire ; but with even a limited vocabulary the stranger has a greater range and independence. All vowels have the continental sounds. A is pronounced like a in fother. F. is pronounced like e in prey or a in fote. J is pronounced like / in machine or the English e. O is pronounced like o in no. 6'' is pronoimced like oo in moon, ^/has the sound of/ in isle. ^6'^has the sound oi 07o in how. S/I has the sound of sh in shall. y// is pronounced very nearly like he in sheaf. C/f is pronounced soft, as in chance, chicken. G has the sound of iig, as Nagasaki (Nangasaki), after a vowel, but it is hard at the beginning of a word. The consonants are pronounced as in iOnglish. Each syllal)le is evenly accented, and tlie // is sometimes elided, or almost silent, as Satsuma (Sats'ma), Dai Butsu (Dai Hoots), etc. 'I'he ft)llowing conjugations, etc., are mostly taken from the small handbook of worils and phrases hrst issued by Farsari & Co., Yoko- hama, but freely i)irated since : A short declination of the auxiliary verbs si/ru, to do, and arimasii, to be, is here gi\x'ii, as many verbs can be formec' from nouns in con- junctions with these as suffixes, and as all ^'Cihs can be declined by sufhxing one of the auxiliaries ; e. g., Fatigue, ki(tal>irii ; 1 am fatigued, kiitabiirinashtix ; kin/, to cut ; kiriiiiaslifa, ditl cut ; kirimasho, will cut. To Do — Sitni. I do, sitni. I (Hd, shta. If I do, sktairba. I will do, sinyo. I shall do, siiru (/e ant. Doing, s/ifi', I do not, s/iinni. I did not do, s/ii-iiakathl. 1 will not do, senitu. Not doing, scde; siuh. To Havk; To Bk — Arimas. I have ; 1 am, arimas. I ha\'e had ; I was, arimashta. If I have, arimasii tarelni. I will have, arimaslio. I shall iiave, ant de am. Having ; being, am. I \\.\\^:t not ; I am not, a ri ma sen. I did not have ; I have not been, arimasenanda. I will not have ; I will not be, arimasmai. Not ha\ing ; not being, naidr. Will you have? will you be? an- maska. Have you had? arimashtaka. 64 I I 5ES. -ch may be few shop- e English, rms of the II a limited r a vowel, ;s elided, etc. he small 0., Yoko- arimasu, in con- lined by fatigued, will cut. imas. ta. isen. >t been, lot be, "? ari- 'it. There are no inflections to distinguish person or number in Japanese verbs, therefore sum will stand for '' I do," as well as for "you do" or "he does." Arimasu is the compound word of ari and masii. Ari is the root of aru, to be ; and inasii is used with am as a polite suffix. The word gozarimasii so fre(iuently heard is only the more polite form of arimasu. NODNS, SENTENCES, ETC. In Japanese \ouNS there are no inflections to distinguish gender number and case, but the words otoko, o or on, male, and oiiua, mc or nu'sii, female, are used to distinguish gender; as, otoko no it ma, horse • onna no iiina, mare ; o i/shi, bull ; mf //ski, cow. ' Os/i and ?nes// are used when the noun is not mentioned, but under- stcjod. \\onls with a no following are aojkctivks, with a ni following are ADVEf^liS. The VK.Ri? comes at the end of the sentence and after the object governed by it ; as, ///// 700 (the dog) kaimaskita (I bought), I bought the dog. To 7ooskimem, shut the door. One, iihi. Two, ///. Three, san. Four, ski. Five, go. Six, roki/. Seven, skiiki. V 'ht, kacki. Nmc, kit. Ten,////. Kle\en,y»/ irki. Twelve, y/// 11 i. Thirteen,y»/ saii{Knd so on Twenty, ;// Jii/. Twenty-one, fiiji// idii. Once, iiiii do. Twice, /// 1/0. Three times, .an do. Four times, Vf' tabi. Five times, go tain. Six times, rokn tabi. January, sko gatsu. February, ni gatsu, Mai'ch, S(rn i^atsn. April, ski gatsu. May. go gatsn. June, niku gatsu. NUMHERS. Thirty, san Jin. Forty, ski Jiu (and so on to ninety). Hundred, kyaku. One hundred, ippiaku. Two hundred, ni kvakit. Thousand, sen. One thousand, issen. Two thousand, ni sen. Ten thousand, man. Hundred thousand, y»/ man. Million, kyaku man. Ten million, sen man. to nineteen.) Thirty-eight million, San-sen kap- pyaku man. Million, clio. Seven times, sliiclii tabi. Eight times, kacki tabi. Nine times, ku tabi. Ten times, yy/A/ZV. Double, bai or nibai. Triple, sam bai. MONTHS. ]\\\y,ski(ki gatsu. August, kacki gatsu, September, /•// gatsu. ( ^'■•ioWw Jiu gatsu. Ncn'eml )vy, Jiu icki gatsu. December.y/// ni gatsu. 6S DAYS OF THE MONTH. ist, tsuitachi. 2d, flit ska. 3d, III ik kit. 4th, yokka. 5th, itska. 6th, iniiika. 7th, iianoka. 8 th, yoka. 9th, kokoiwku. loth, /V;/(v?. iith,y// /V/// «/i7i/. I2th,y>// ;// ,'//V///. i3th,yy// sail nichi. lOf'iX^^jiii yokka. \>s^\}ci,jiH go nichi. i6th,y»^ roku nichi. 17 th, J iu she hi nichi. i8th,yy// hachi nichi. i9th,y/// kn nichi. 20th, hatska. 2 1 St, ni jiii ichi nichi. 2 2d, ni jin ni nichi. 23d, nijiii sail nichi. 24th, nijin yokka. 25 th, ni Jilt go nichi. 26th, ///^»/ rokn nichi. 2,th, /////.'/ ^V/^/'/ nichi. '^t;-" '//y///' /^^^r/// «/V///, 9th .'ijin kit nichi. jv^tli, .V. •..'/// nichi or inisoka. 31st, sanjin ichi nichi. DAYS OF THE WEEK. Sunday, nichi yohi. Monday, gatsn or ^4,'-^/'.<'//( jj'^^/, Tuesday, ka yohi. VVednestlay, sui yohi. Thursday, inokie yohi. Fritlay, kin yohi. Saturday, do yohi ; handon. HOURS. Hours are counted l>y prefixing the Chinese numerals to the Chinese wordy/ — " time," " hour " — thus : tchi-ji, one o'clock. yo-ji Ji"-^<'^-f">', fifteen minutes past ni-ji, two o'clock. four. san-ji ji/^-pun, ten minutes past yV/z-yV //.?;/, half-past ten. ^'^''*-'*^- jiti-ni-ji Jiii-iio-fiin mac, fifteen min- utes to twelve. Spring, ham. Summer, natsti. THE SEASONS. Autumn, aki. Winter, ///iv/. DIVISIONS OF TIME. Day, hi. Morning, asa. Noon. /;///,■,• 'hogo. Evening, yi/ ; ban. Night, yorii. Midnight, iw/rc/v/. To-elay, konnichi. To -morrow, m von ich i. The day after to-morrow, asaiic myog<>nichi. Yesterday, sakiijitsii. The day before yesterday, ototoi ; issakiijitsii. An hour, ichijikan. Half an hour, hanjikan. A (juarter of an \\q\\x,Jii go fun. AW'ck, shu. Month, tsiiki. ( )ne month, hih>-/suki. 66 ^.) Heavens, ten. Sky, sora. Sun, taiyo; tento sama, hi. THE HEAVENS. Moon, tsJd. Star, IwsJii. TRAVELING. inese l)ast niin- Passi:)ort, ryoko.nenjo. Ticket, kippti. Railway Station, sutcishion. Post-ofifice, yiibinkyokii. Telegraph otilice, deiishiii kyokii. Inn, hotel, yadoya. Carriage, basha. Coachman, i^yos/ta betto. Bath,y///v-'/ 17/. Bed, ncdoko. Room, Jieya. Steamship, y. ]^rocade, !:isliiki. Gown (clothing), kimono. Coat, liaori. Sash, obi. Thick, atsiii. I'hin, Usui, Wide, Jiiroi. Narrow, scmai. Long, nui^ai. Short, mijikai. Yard (measure), shaku. (Two an(.l one-half shaku equal one English yartl.) P^xchange, To, tori kaeru. IJlack, kuroi. Blue, a 700, sora-iro. ]51ue, dark, asai:^i iro. Blue, light, /;//■;// asat^i. Cireen, aoi ; inidori. I'ink, uiouio iro. I^u-ple, uiurasaki. Red, akai. White, skiroi. Yellow, ki-iro. ''"asiiion (mode), liaxari. Dirty, kitauai. Best (No. i), ichi ban. Large, (■'/'/. Can or will do, I, lickimas. Cannot or will not do, I, dekimasen. It is impossible, dckinai. Cold, kin. Silver, gin. Paper money, satsu. Small, cliisai. Scissors, Jiasanii. Address it to, shokai io na-atc too kakinasai. I will take this also, kore i;:o niocJii- masho. Let me see something better, moto a mono wo o niisc nasai. Bring me samples of all you have, aruiiake no mono milion motte kite kudasai. I shall buy this, kore 100 kaimas. Let me know when it is ready, shtaku shtareha shirasc nasai. Please make it cheaper, motto omake nasai. I wont it of a lighter color, moto usui iro ga JiosJiii. Give me one a good deal darker, moto kroi iro kudasai. What is this made of? /wv wa nan de dekite orimas ? How many ? ikiitsu ? Have you any more? motto ant ka ? Send this package to , kono tsutsumi (name of place), c yatts okurr. I would like to see it, please, miseie okurc. Less, sukunai. The same thing, another like this, onaji koto. liad, warui. Pretty, kirei. I will come again, mata kimasu. BEVERAGES, EATA1]L1':S, irrc A])ple, ringo. Beef, iislii niku. lU't'r, biru. \l',v\\.\.< X a >-c C O H < > U oa O o Li! 10\0 ■* Tj- LO fO o o o 60- Tl- CN t~. .8 O "^o U) ■3 I^ o\ — r-> i^O o ■* o C/0 "1 »- Cn -I O >0 fO CN • vO 'C/3 On ri ^^CC o CO rOON •4- i-i 4 4 10^ -t ^ •■2 n 00 C^ O On>0 CO PI \0 vO ''I CTv •" 1^ • • • CO , -1- CI "-1VD >, 'T _ rt ~ 3 0\ Cv O >> c '"-■ fO o\- '^ 6 O ft 1- M 00 r-, t fl Tt ro '- - 1-00 rOON 4 >ooco PI M PI 1^ ro CI l-> 3 V I 3 d rt 2 >|i !> a E: c OJ 01 HH E S 3 3 c F *1 c rt J.- •= — rt c dj f^ -- rt o O j3 n) '-'■g 3 S""}^ 3 3 ^ S c "o o c H ™ f^ •/) in r) 41 ii U _£ A D : S '3 S. ^ .2" o ^ Se2 >. IT " u 7! V « n — ' !" 5 n' 'C3 V. ^ o i> d u ^ S c = c G - = .^ i! i o « I = .s I J3 a a u 3 x: VI u n •* •9 a E 1/1 2 j: 3 rt iS W'jio^i — seoMC© © i» » -^ ;c .a >: r r , i* •» I 1 I BOOKS OF RHFHRENCE JAPAN AND CHINA. liy W. I', (iriltis. New Vi)rl<: Hnrpcr ^t lirotlicrs. -liv I. 1. Ufiii. N'cw V(irk: A. C Armstnmi; & Smi. " Ml'RRAv's Hano lioiiK I'ciK Tn A\ HiKKS I \ Jai'An" — -liy 1!. H. C'liamlicrUiiii and W. (^i. Mason. " I'lih; .Mikado's K.mi'iki:"/ " |-'aiK\' W'i iKl.l) " "J.M'.VN — 'I'k.w la.N .\Nii Ki':si:.\Niiii>;s " / "Tin; Inihstnial Aims m J.\r,\N" * "Jai'.\n — Irs .\k]\ .VKCiMTlci'TrKi'. .\M) .\kv M ANTi'Ai tinfcs " — by Dr. L'liiistoplicr Itressci l.iincl.iii: I ,iiiii;iiiai\s, (iicfii i<: (\i. " J.M'ANicsi-: IId.mics" — liv I'nif. 1'.. S. Mcirs(j. N'cw \'cirk: Har|ier i^ llnitlicrs "I'htdriai. .Ak'Ts (II' J ai.w " — !iy Mr. \V. .\mk-r,s(iii. I.ond.iii. " J.\i .SNivsi', .\K'r.\Nii .\i;risT-." — by M. H. Iliiisb. I.nMiloii ; l''inc Arti Sncicty. "-\k't;st.i I.\..\n" — bv S. r.iiii;. I'aris I's; I.iiikIihi: .'^ampsDii, Marstoii iSc Lowe. " .\\ .\i;risi's birrii:Rs ircim J,\i.\n" — by Joliii i,a Farge. New ^■nr^;: 'I'be Cenliiry Co, iS.jy. "J.\i.\N — lis lIisTiim, Tk'.mii THINS ASM) K lii.ii IK IN " — by Sir Kilward Kcid. I.cnuloii: JdIui .M 111 ray. " 1'niiic.\tI';n 'I'raiks in |.\r.\N" — by Miss Isalu-lla lUnb London: John Murray, " ViirNc, .Iai'AN" — l)y J. K. lHa. k. " j.M'AN — Till': l.ANi) 111- riih: \biKNiNi;" — bv W. *■. Di.voii. iMliniinri^li: J. (lamincl. " 'I'liic >riii. <>y vwK l'.\R !■, wr" . "Niirci; .\n rNi;.\Ti.iiK'i;i) ( ukni-.r <>\' Jai'.\n"! — \>y I'crcival l.owcll. lloston: Tickiior c'i Co. " ()( \ ii.T Japan" ' " ( il.lMFSlCS ()!•• UnI-AMII.IAR JaI'AN" "III I HI 11 IK 1''ARM " " KllKOKd " " ( ;i,i.\irsi.,s oi' l!ri)i)iiA I'll' I lis " N'dTMS iiN JaI'.\N " — by .\llri-d I'arsons. N'ew York: Ilarprr^i; Ibollicrs. " I'R()|U.h;.MS AND I'lll.lTliS UK TIIK l''Ak l'".AST " — by ( Ifcirne N. I 'lir/oll. London. — by Lafcadio llcani, lioston; Hdiighton, Miflbn S: Co. " S|.:,\s .\Ni) L.VNDs" / ■ bv Sir l'',iKviii .\rnolil. Ni:\v \'ork; (has. Scaibiu'r's Sons, 181 .ji. I \luNlt ,\ ' "Till': l\i-..\i, |\I',\n" — liy Henry Xorinan. N"i-\v York: Cliarlcs Scribner's Sons. "Mmu. Ciims.xN'liMsMi'-.." I'aris: lalliaann-Lcvy. i '• Jai'onaishrius d'.Vitii.mni:." I'aris: Callinann-Lcvy. /—liy I'icrrf Loii. "Jai'ANicsk WiniKN." l/dP-f'ri-'sMiigiiziiie, I'ui:. 1890. ; " j.M'.SNKsn (Lri.s .\ni) W'i i.\i ic " — by .Mii c I'laion. Iloslon: lLiiii;hloii, Millliii X: (' 891, " liNRiKisil.\ IIass in |,\I'.\n" — by KIiz:i Kiihanudi Si i'lmorc. Nuw \'ork : ll.irpcr i\: lirollicrs, 1 81; I , "TlllNdS jArANHSn" — by Lasil Mali ( 'li.iinbrl lain, iS.ji, "'I'lin l''i,i)wi''.i(s III'' j.\i'AN .\ND I'lilc .\|M' HI- I'i.hnai, ,\ nr,\N( mcm icnt " — liy Josiali Coiidcr. Yoko- hama: Kvlly i*\: Walsh, iSi|i. " Jai'ANKsk .\ri iini'.r-i'ini'; " — by Josiali CondtT and J. Mi:li. (ianlincr. " LaNDSI ATI': ( i.NUDhNIM. IN I.M'AN" — by Josiali I'lilldcr, "JaI'AN As W'i: .'s\\\ It" - by Kobrrt S. Cardiiicr. Hnsloll, 181/.!. " I Ai'.\Ni';sn I'oTTURs" — by Sir .Vnnnslns W. Iriniks. London. Sonlh Kinisiiiiilon Musciiiii ILiinl bonk, " L'.\rI' J.M'iiNAIsn " — by I, iiiis (louse. I'aris. " La Ch:R.\.Mii,ii !■; jAriiNAlsi:" -- by ( iiieda 'rokoimoionke. I'aris. "CiiRKS — 'rill''. lli'.K'Mil' Na'IIus" — bv W. I'.. (liilTis. N'cw \'ork : llarprriSt llrotlicrs. " ( 'iliisiiN — Tiih; Land m riir; Muk'Ninii ( ai \i " — by I'l'n '' il Lowell, llosloti; iloiiyluon, Milllin i^' Co. "'I'lin MiDlii.n kiNi.iiii.ii " • li\' S, W'l.Ils W'illiiiiiis, New Nork; Clinrles Srribner's Sons " Tr.wi'.i H IN NiiRiiiKKN CiiiNA "— by Ui!v. N, Williiniisoii, "CiiINK.sk ClIAItAi rUKIsl Ii s ' Kiv, A, Sinith. New S'liik; I'leiniiik!, Ki'vell iSt (.'o. "'{'ill'' Ki'M. Chin \\i,\N " — by Cliesler Ilo|i:oiiili, New York; limUl, Mead iSt Co. "I.' \K'r CiiiNnis" - bv M. I'lileoloniie, I'.iris. "La CuNAMii.iin Ciiiniiis " — by K. ( Irnndidier. I'liriH. 73 \ * •* lO.T f.'.t trom V")iWi|'h <7> <■ L-^\- "K ■^ r-1 ^ a ^ »s ec 3S y 5? S 1 O H u " c ? t i'''ii-r-:.viF H ^ m\ 1 W aur iu'lil lllil TO^ u;;. •J "■«i„ Tl| -M Utrt On..ii. £,1=1 ' 30 O -<: > r > r at ;^ CI > X ..;*^^^i^' . Xvoa i^i3?coKr>. 57"5; Vit>!ilP . Date. I.A-nrcDE. I,()N(;rriM)K "'stance Rl-N. KlCMAKKS. l-_. 76 I I I -4 XvOC^ I^^T^OOl-^ll. STEAMSHIP. Dath. Latitude. , I,oN(;rrri)K. Distance Rix. 1\i:makks. >7 FROM V'llOM SAII.1N(;S, TICKKTS AND OIIIKR I'AKTICf I.A KS MAY l!K Ol! lA I N KI). ADELAIDE , AMOY . . , AMSTERDAM ANTWERP SO, AUSTRALIA , . . . CHINA , . . HOLLAND BELGIUM Sliiycl, \o. 155. AUCKLAND . NEW ZEALAND BADEN-BADEN . GERMANY BALTIMORl MD BANGKOK SIAM BATAVIA JAVA- BERLIN .... GERMANY BOMBAY INDIA BOSTON MASS BOULOGNE-SURMER, FRANCE BRISBANE AU8 BROCKVILLE . . , . ONT BRUSSELS , . .BELGIUM BUCHAREST . , ROUMANIA BUDA-PESTH . HUNGARY BUFFALO . . , . . , N. V CAIRO , . . , . EGYPT CALCUTTA. . , . . INDIA CANTON . . . . CHINA CAPE TOWN . , SO, AFRICA L^'EFOO . , . , CHINA CHEMULPO . . , KOREA CHICAGO. . , . . ILL COLOGNE . . . GERMANY COLOMBO , , , CEYLON CONSTANTINOPLE . TURKEY COPENHAGEN . . DENMARK PELAGOA RAY . SO. AFRICA DETROIT MICH 'jlNEDIN , NE^ ZEALAND DURBAN , , . 80. AFRfA FIJI (LAVUKA 61 SUVA) . FOOCHOW . , . , CWHf\ FORMBY , . . TASMANIA FRANKFORT , . . GERMANY GLASGOW . . , SCOTLAND HALIFAX N.8 HAMBURG . . HAMILTON , . HAMILTON . HANKOW . . HAVRE I I I I HOMBURG , HONG KONG HONOLULU . GERMANY BERMiiOA ONT . .CHINA FRANCE GERMANY ' . ' . ' H. I .A. U. S.N. Cn. (Ltd.) .J;irdine. Mallieson & Co. \ I .issciniic iSc Son, - - - ' IiitciTUitiimal Sleeping L'lir Cd. / Kaydt I't Co., Ticket .Agent.';, - - - - i Kue nu Sucre. . ! Richard Herns, Ticket .\gcnt, - - 132 .\veiuie du Cciniinerce. ' H. I lel>cMlKini, Cont.iieMtal rralTic \geiit, - 15 Rue St. I'aid. .Tlios. Ciidk iSi Son, - - New Zealand Shipping Co. (I, id.) • 1''. \V. Sliiik, So|ihienslra >e 5. .C, li. ()sl)iirn, I'reight ami I'a^s'r Agent, - i2y 1'',. Halliniore St. .Windsor i^ Cn. .Marl.aiue, Watson Sc Co. . I uterualioiial Sleeping Car Co., - - - 6y Cuter den l.iudeu. \ l''.uari, l.alliam iS: (.^o. ' Thiinias Clink vt Sou, 15 Rampart Row. • il. J. Cnlvin, jlistrict I'ass'r .\geut, - - - 11^7 Wa>hiugton St. . I leruu, I'eron iV Co., Ticket .Vgents. ■ - - Siege Sncial. .riic Hricish India i^: (Jueenshunl .Agency Cn. (Ltd.). .C. !•",. Mi-Clade, Ticket .\geut,Cnr. King .^t. and Cnurl llnuse .\ve. . 1 utcru.atinnal Sleeping Car Cn., - - - I'.^-i^ Rue de ri''.iuyer. . Strada Vauiei, i. ■ Interualinna! I^leeping Car Co., j I'undalis'.ues. ' I'niversetara, Carol r. . lulcnuiti lual Slee|iiug Car ( n., - • ( Iraud lintel 1 luugaria. ..\ I. Shuhnan, City I'.iss'r and freight Agent, - .> < ; .Main St. . I nt'l Sleeping ( ar Cn., Ciirres)inndeuts, - (ihesireh l'alai:e. . Syihu y ilaywnod, I'.asteru Travelling \geut, ;m I >alhnnsie Sipiare . ] Cdlanders, .\rliuthunt S: C'n, ' r ! .ni:.s Cni.k .V Sn 1, - - . - 1 1 Old Cniirl llnu-e St. • Jarduie, Mathesou & Co. .Will. .Auderson S; I'o. . Feigus>ou i*v: Co. . I Inline, Ringer iS( t n. • j. I'raiicis ' .e, ( ieaeral Agent, I'ass'r Dept., - 2j.S S. Clark St. . lnternali("i:il Sleeping Car Cn., - . . - Central Slalinii. \ Hois Hli. tilers. " ' Thnnias Cnnk i'<: Snii l\'.. I!. Creasey). . I uteiii.aliniial Sleejiing tar Cn,, .Joacliiui I'rahl, Cirrespoudeiil. .NIvcn, Mitchell & Cotis, .A !'. l'"diiioiids, t'ily I'ass'r .Agent, .New /Zealand Shipping C'o. ■ Niveli, f.;inhell -S; C'ntts. I'. C'al.kr. . lar.liii.'; M-vl sm & Co. Vhu Kivcr llni' Tradilin Co. (1,1.1.) . Inleruii'' inal slei:ping Car i\t., .A. II iki r, I'.iirrpt.in TraHic Agent, ,J. I) Chipiuap City I'ass'r and Ticket .Agent, msi ""v m? Ilnllis Si ( VnUnM K Cornelsen, . . _ KInslerstrasse I ' liil'l '<' .ping Car Co., Ilainl'urget-llnll', Nn. nCinsse lUeiclien • jus. A. Cnayers, .\S'. J. ( iraiil, Cnr. King and Jniiiev Sts • J.udilio, Matliesriii & Co, \ llniiu, I'erou iSi I'li,, - • • - .| Place dii Cniiunerce ' R. tl.lnut 4 '*i M Kill' I'.d. lame . Intcriiiiiinual sleeping Cur Co.. K.( LniiiseiistrasHu .|l. I'',. Ilrnwn, ( leiieial Vg'""', China, Japan, etc, . riuo, II. h.uieH i. .( Icralil A. Morals, , -F. S. Morse. . \. r.aUcr, iMiropL-an TralTic .-Vuenl, - - - - 7 James -t. ^y.Sct'iS Kiii^Williaiii .'^t., I'',. ('.. anil ;.. ( 'oekspiir St., S. \V. .1'. R. I'arker, 'liiikel At;ent, . . . - 161 hunilasSl. ..•\rliulhnot & Co. . .Intenialiiinal Slei-piiii; Cat (!()., - - - 18 Calle ile AUal.i. . . Tunihilll. J r. iV >ciiiiet\ iUc, L'urresiinnilriU--. . -Srtiitli, r.ell & Co. ..Ceo. \V. I iilibaiil. General I'asseimer A^ent, h. .S. S. ,>;■ A. Ry. y Til iiiias Cook .v Son. •■ ' A. U. .S. N. Co. (Ltd.) ..W. R. Callauay, (leii'l I'ass'r Aueiit, Soo Line. . . Iiitertiational .'-^leepiM'.i ( ar Co., - - - . I lotcl lU I'.iri^. .( . I',. 1'.. Usslier, (ieiieral I'aNsetmer .\u;enl. . . Int'l Sleeniiti; ( '.-ir Co., llotilevaril Mrasiioy, Maisoii 'I' .rhi» liol'l. .Holme, Ringer it Co. . . Ititernatioiial ^leepiin; ( ar 111., ■ • :!88 Via Riviera ili Cliiaia. . . 1',. V. Skinner, Cetieral l-'.asteiii Ai^eiil, - - 55^ I'.toaduav. . . I >. Isaacs, I'rospeit House. , . Intern.iliotial >lee|iiit,n Car Co., - - - 2 .\vetiiie Masseiia. . .R. Meiiy & Co. .1. I'.. I'arker. I ity I'assenuer .\'.^ent, - - - 42 Sparks St. f International SleejiinL; Car ( o., - - ; Place ile !'< Ipeia. j I'hos. Cook iS: S .n, . - . . - 1 I'la. e de I'l Jpei.c 1 I lernii, I'eron >■<: I o., - - ■ 'j'i Rue des Marai> >t. \lailin. I " " " ... I, I r.oulevard Haiissniann. . llonslead & Co, .11. McMiirtrie, I'rt. .>v I'ass'r V^ent, Cor. Tliiril ."v Clie.-tinit S|v. . . K. W. Salsbtiry. Coin'l Aneiit, - .(oy Smilli I'liildinn. ..(I. H. Thompsoii. Ticket .\,i;t., Maine Central Rd., I'ni m Hepot. . H. IT. Aliliott, l'asseni;er .-XHent, - . . - i.p, I'hird St, . .(ieor);e l>iinc.-in, Passenger A.ueiit, - ''pl'. ''"st < )|"lice. \ ( lillaiiilers, .Arhiitlniot .<: Co. ' 'I'lioinas (.dok .t Son, Meriliant St. . . Inlernati inal Sleepiiiu Car Co., - - - u ami ;.• \'ki Condolti. . - I'i. Karlshern it Co. . . \. H. N'otnian, Asst. ( li-iieral I'assenner Acenl. .W. S. riiorn, \s>t. 1;. I'. A. Soo Cine. . Iiilernational Sleepinu Car Co., - - - / I'etile Morskaia. .\lac.\eill i^ Co. . R I,orent/en. .\I. M. Stern, Hist. T'rt. and I'ass'r .\i;enl. - Chronicle linildini;- .1'. \i. Harvey, - ... Steamsliip W'li.uf. .W. R. 'riionison, Miiln.d Cilr llnildim;, o.,,, T'irst Aveiuu-. ■ I.Miline, Malliesoii ,*t Co. llonslead i'i Co, - Kraser, I'.itoii & Co, \ linrns, I'liilp i>vc Co, (l.id.) ' 'I'll mias Cook i't Son. -I'. R. Jolmson, Kreiuhi and I'ass'r \^;ent, .(', I'.. Mcl'lierson, Ass't ( leil'l I'ass'r \iient, .1'.. J. I'oyle, Hist. I'asseii«er Auent. • Interiintional SluLMiini; Carlo., . I!. W. I Ireer, T'reiulit and I'ass'i X^inl, -SlievclleO J4 Co. • Inlernalioiial Sleeping Car Co. - • - j Ktit; KotKihllf. .\V, W, Mcrkle, City •\uem. ■ . . f,!j7 IVniisylvniia \\;. .New Zealaiiil SliippiiiK C'<). . I Mlirnati 'nal Sleeping < ar 1 o., .'( Willielmslrasse. . RoI.erl Kerr, 'Prallic Manauer, Lines West of Lake Superior. .Win. T. I'ayiit-, < iei crui Tiirtii; .\ucnl lot Jap.ni, i ( r.iniil. to;! j I'ai ilic \\i-. 1 Isiiii; St., I'.asl, 1 ^ Kai nllmn Riii^;. < io\ei nnieni St, ^H:.>^^Atr---i ^ ^^ CALENDAR .^ .$e • • • lOOO • • * JANUARY. S M r W T F s T7l 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011 1213 14151617181920 2122232425 2627 28293031 MARCH. ..1 12 3 4 5 6 7 8 910 11 121314151617 18192021222324 25 262728293031 M AY. ..i.7l~l 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011 12 13141516171819 2021222324 25 26 2728293031 .. .. JULY. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011 121314 15161718192021 22 2324 25 26 2728 293031 SEPTEMBER. V':i;.i..i..|..i.. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011 12131415 16171819202122 23 2425 26272829 30 NOVEMBER, 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910 11 121314151617 18 192021222324 25 2627282930 .. FEBRUARY. S M T 4 5 6 W T ! F ' S .12 3 7 8 910 11 121314151617 1819202122 23 24 25262728 APRIL. 12 3 4 5"F^f 8 91011 121314 15161718192021 22 23 2425 262728 29 30 .. JUNE. I 1 9 • • •• •• •• •• X ^1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1011 1213141516 171819202122 23 2425 2627 282930 AUGUST. 12 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011 12131415161718 19202122 232425 262728293031 .. OCTOBER. ..II 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011 1213 14151617181920 21222324252627 28293031 DECEMBER. I.. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011 12131415 16171819202122 23 2425 2627 2829 3031 ^.y o IVIJK/ ^» ti, NV. ^ •• TOKOHAMA A Grand Hotel. B Klppon YuBcn RalBha. C PoBt Office and Police StatlOB. D MachlGalsho. E Police Station (Municipal). F British Naval Depot. a Club Hotfa, II U.S. Hospital. I General Hospital. J N. Y. K. Coal Slieds. K Road to Race Courae. L Oriental Hotel. AI Police Station. /TciiMilc , ■ Ulufl ( ^ l'' (inrdi-n ^' J DI □[ r r\.»"* v\ ■"~t: ishi-n" , ,1 1] MOTO tin ||i.(30/-/#, ,-■• «l!^-', Vi ^ Ill'' THK Canadian Pacific Railway Co.'s STEAMSHIP ROUTE. CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN JAPAN. Cop7rightod b; BOB'T 3. OASCItTES for "Japan Ai We Caw It. Scale of English Mile* 50 ■Open Line* of Railway Lines under oonstruotion == C. P. R. Steamboat Route. 100 : Lines Surveyed r Lines Propoaed 150 ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^128 |2.5 kk y u 11:25 i 1.4 m 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ iV 4^ ■1>^ \ :\ 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WHSTIR.N.Y. MSIO (716) ■73-4503 ^. q\ 4* >.^ ^ ^^ CATFlSinAP ^ aB * 1-4 ti*^ I* i i I II iwi ^ iii'; ' ^ ii !«;. ^^^ a (j i M i w i ^ i