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T t( T P o fi G b tl si o fl si o T si T N di 61 bi ti r« ir This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est fiimi au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X y 12X 16X aox 24X 28X 32X Tha copy filmsd her« ha* baan raproducad thanks to tha ganarotity of: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia L'axamplaira film* fut raproduit grAca A la gAnArositA da: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia Tha imagas appaaring hara ara tha bast quality possibia considaring tha condiUon and lagibility of tha original copy and in kaaping with tha filming contract spacifications. Original copias in printad papar covars are filmad baginning with tha front covar and anding on tha last paga with a printad or illustratad impras- sion, or tha back covar whan appropriata. All othar original copias ara filmad baginning on tha first paga with a prii^ Head Lake Linderraan to foot 6 River or Portage to head of Lake Bennett . i Head of Lake Bennett to foot 24 Through Cariboo Crossing to head of Tagish Lake 2 Head of Tagish Lake to foot 19 Through River to head of Lake Marsh 6 Head of Lake Marsh to foot . 19 Foot of Lake Marsh to Canyon -. 25 Through Canyon }( F.oot of Canyon to White Horse Rapids :.— . 2 Through White Horfee Rapids — ..^ ^.—J >^ Fpot of, Whiteiiorse Rapids to Talikeena.. River - 16 Tahkeena River to head of Lake Le Barge 14 Head of Lake Le Barge to foot 31 Foot of Lake Le Barge to Hootalinqua River 30 Hootalinqua River to Big Salmon River 34 Big Salmon River to Little Salmon River 37 Little Salmon River to Five Fingers 62 Five Fingers to Rink Rapids 6)4 Rink Rapids to Pelly River 55 Pelly River to White River 97 White River to Stewart River 9 Stewart River to Sixty Mile River 21 Sixty Mile River to Fort Reliance 53 Fort Reliance to Forty Mile 48 Forty Mile to Ft. Cudahy ^ Ty-a to Ft Cudahy ^ . 643 9^ p . ^^ vJC . diU-C^ . ->- ' ered on the Yukon. — Three Divisions of the Intfiiur. — Recent Discoveries. — Forty Mile Creek.- - Birch Creek. — Climate of the ni'erior. — L,onj.; Winter Vigil. — Larj^e.st Nu).;tret Kver Found in Alaska. — Placer Mininjf in Winter.— Oold (quartz. Deposits,- Vici.ssitudc's of the Miners' Life. CHAPTER VIII. LAND .\Nn .SK.\ AN I. MA US. Fur Seal Industry. — Seal Rookery. — Hunting the Sea Otter. — Hrown .".nd Black Rear. — A Thlinkit Legend. — Home of the Beaver. — The Black, Red, White and Blue Foxes. — The Polar Bear. — Deer, Moose and Other Animals. Eagles and Hununing Birds. — The I'eathery Tribe— Vast Resources of Alaska. CHAPTER IX. THK TOURI.ST ROl'TK. From Seattle to Sitka. — The Season for Tourists. — Seattle. — Tacoma, — Port Townsend. — Victoria — Nanaimo. — Seymour Narrow.s — Chatham Sound. — Fir.st Glimpse of Alaska. — New Metlakahtla. — Fort Wrangel. — Wrangel Narrows. — Taku Inlet. — Juneau — Treadwell Mine. — Lynn Canal. — Glacier Bay. — The Silent City. — (irandeur of Fairwe.'itlier Range. — Peril Strait. — Sitka. — Mt. Edgecombe. — The Far Beyond. CHAPTER X. AI.A.SKA INDIAN.S. Their Origin. — Quass. — The Totem Pole and It.- Significance. — Witchcraft, — Exorcising Evil Spirits. — Cremation Stili Practiced. — Shamans or Doctors. — Expert in Carving and Engraving. — The Chilkat Blanket. — Atoning for Murder. — Blackening Faces. — Houses of Natives. CHAPTER XI. ESKIMO HAIUT.S AND CUSTOM.S. An Eskimo Dwelling — An Industrious and Patient People. — Primitive Manner of ]',Iaking Fire. —Slaves to Tobacco. — The Oomiak and Kyak, — Eskimo Rain-Coat. — Tattooing by Women. — Wearing Labrets by ^ CONTENTS. Men. — Polygatiij-. — Athletic Sport?.— Dancing Principal Amusement. — Zaksriner, the Contortionist. — The Eskimo Dog. CHAPTER XII. ^ RKINDKKR. Importation of Reindeer. — Starving E.skimos and Cause for Same. — Dr. Sheldon Jackson Interests Government. — Arctic Alaska a Natural Feeding (Ground for Reindeer. — A Boon to the Eskimo. — Habits and Characteristics of the Reindeer. — Manner of Driving. — Reindeer Sledge and Harness. — Reindeer Good Travelers. CHAPTER XIII. ailS.SIONS .\M) SCHOOLS. Hussian Missionaries Sent to Alaska in 1793. — A Strange .\dmixture. — Lit- tle Progress Made. — Indian Attendance at School Not P^ncouraged. — Long Neglect of Congress to Provide Civil Government. — Dr. Sheldon Jackson in Charge of Educational Affairs. — Public School System Established. — Indian Industrial Training Schools. — Devotion of Mis- sionaries and Teachers. CHAPTER XIV. THK BOUNDARY DISI'fTIC. Claim Made by the British Government. — The Treaty Between Russia and England. — Line of Demarkation Clearly Established. — Absurdity of the British Claim. — The Ten Marine League Limit. — Portland Canal as the Eastern Limit.— Language of the Treaty. — Why Great Britain Wants this Strip of Territory. — An Outlet to the Great Interior. — Con- gress Cannot Afford to Stultify Itself. ERRATA. Page 17, third line — Convention should read committee. Page 18, tenth line — 1891-92 should read 1889-90. Page 18, sixteenth lii'C-- 1S91 should read 1890. Page 35, seventeenth line — Kakutat should read Vakutat. Page 115 — Dr. Sheldon Jackson first went to Alaska in 1877. \museraent. Saint'.— Dr. 1 a Natural - Habits and lul^er Sledge ixture. — Lit- ncouraged. — -Dr. Sheldon hool System Dtion of Mis- n Russia and Absurdity of land Canal as 5reat Britain iterior. — Con- tat. 1877- LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. An Alaska Indiax Girl, Frontispiece. OPPOSITE PACE. Karli-k vSand Spit and "River of Life " Yukon Miners at Sheep Camp, _ _ - - Yukon Miners Sledding Over Route, - - - Yukon Miners Packing Over Route, - - - Yukon Miners and Natives Packing Over Route, - Yukon Miners at Stone Hou.se, _ - - - Yukon Miners and Natives at Summit op Chilkoot PA.SS, - - - - -- The Canyon, Yukon River, - - - - Fur Seal Rookery, St. Paul Island, Killing Fur Seal, St. Paul Island, Juneau, - - _-- Grenville Channel on Tourist Route, The Great Treadwell Mill, - - - - - The Treadwell Ledge, _ - _ - - Sitka, AT [0:30 p. M., - - _ _ - Front OF MuiR Glacier, - - Crevasse on Top ok Muir Glacier, - - The Silent CiTv, _ - - - - Sitka Harbor, ----- - - - Greek Church at Sitka, Exterior View, Greek Church at Sitka, Interior View, Southeastern Alaska Indians and C.\noes, 40 44 48 50 52 54 56 60 64 66 72 76 78 80 83 84 86 88 92 94 98 100 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - ContinuBD. OPPOSITE PAGE. Hon. Warren Truitt, _ _ _ _ _ _ 102 ZaKSRINER, _------- 103 Eskimo Boy, Eskimo Hut, Eskimo Girls, Eskimo Family, Eskimo Spearing Walrus, - - - 104 Herd of Reindeer Lying Down, _ - - - 108 King's Island, North Bering Sea, _ _ _ _ 112 Dr. Sheldon Jackson, - _ - _ - _ 115 Harrison R, Thornton, - - _ - - _ 118 Hon. Charles D. Rogers, - - - - - 121 New Metlakahtla, _ _ _ _ _ __i28 LIST OF PEN SKETCHES. Totem Pole, . _ _ . _ _ _ _ 9 Russian Block Hoitse at Sitka, _ _ _ _ 11 Indian Canoes, ________ 39 Eskimo Canoe, _______ 44 Miners Hauling Sleds, ______ 53 A Yukon Nugget, _______ 60 Eskimo with Dogs, ______ 62 Seal, ________ ^ 63 Seal in Water, _ _ _ _ _ _ __66 Baranoff Castle, --_____ 93 Indian Woman, - _ » _ _ _ _ - 95 Indian Doctor, _ - _ _ . _ „ 99 Reindeer Team, _______ 113 Map of Alaska, Showing Routes, Disputed Boundary. i\ \. OPPOSITE PAGE. I02 O 108 112 115 - 118 121 - 128 9 II - 39 44 - 53 - 60 62 63 66 93 - 95 99 "3 /\I/\SKA. A' CHAPTER I. HISTORY. LASKA is the name of all that portion of the northwest extremity of this continent, which, until 1867, was known as Russian America It is only a matter of conjecture how long this region would have remained a terra incognita had not the Imperial government at St. Petersburg sent Vitus Bering, a Dane by birth, on a voyage of discovery. The year 1728 saw him in command of an expe- dition whose object was to find, if possible, new lands, and whose course led through the waters east of Siberia until he arrived in the great closed sea that now bears his name. The object of this expedition does not ap- pear in any degree to have been a desire to contribute to the cause of science; but the prime motives were aggrandizement and to extend the limits of trade. During this voyage Bering discovered that the two continents were separated by only a narrow stretch of water at the point now known as Bering strait, and that the coast of the one was plainly visible from the shores of the other. The year following, this intrepid navigator endeavored to find a coast Hue across the waters to the eastward, but failed in hi.-- attempt. Immediately following this cruise, and for many years after, there were rife rumors, which seemed to gather impetus with each recurring year, aided, doubtless, by Bering's own record of his voyages, that a rich country lay in the "Far Beyond," and so the Russian government was stimulated to persist in its efforts ToTKM rorst Alaska rt of civil 3f 1881, a ;lection of ing winter ind asked f Alaska, ion of its 1 affairs, Mr. Ball's visit to Washington was of no great value, for he was not permitted to take his seat. Still the wedge had been applied to the encasement of the difficulties that encompassed Alaska, and the light of intelligent investigation was dawning on her horizon. During the next ses.sion of Congress, various bills were introduced looking to the passage of laws that would give to Alaska some semblance of a civil government. In 1883, Senator Benjamin Harrison introduced a bill, which became a law in the following summer. It is called ' ' The Organic Act of Ala.ska," and provides for the appointment of a governor, district judge, clerk of the court, marshal, collector, and four United States commissioners, one of whom is to reside in each of the principal towns of the territory, the other officers to reside at Sitka, which, by this act, was made the temporary capital ; and all these officers were to be appointed by the President. This act, though very defective, when viewed by the light of the past ten years, was still a step in the direction of a civil govern- ment. Ala.ska is es.sentially a prohibition country. It prohibits the cutting of timber, and the exporting of the same out of the ter- ritory' ; it prohibits the killing of fur seal, except under certain restrictions, which give to a company the e.cclusive control of the same ; it prohibits the importation, sale, cr manufacture of whisky in the territory, though it can be had in almo.st any vil- lage or hamlet within its borders ; and notwithstanding this absolute prohibition, the government has seen fit to collect an internal revenue tax from all persons having it for sale. The Governor is permitted to use his discretion as to whom he will grant a license ; it must, however, be to a druggist who will sell the same purely for medical, mechanical and scientific pur- poses. The attempt on the part of the government to restrain this traffic in Alaska has proven a farce, because of the wholly inade- quate means at the disposal of the officers, whose duty it is to execute the laws. From the earliest settlement of Russian America down through the years since the purchase by the United States, the liquor question has overshadowed every other, and the sturdy miners and those following other pursuits, and especially the missionary people have been in constant anxiety as to the effect unexecuted liquor laws would have upon the native population. While they i6 ALASKA. are practically a dead letter, yet there has been gi.ater security felt since the appointment of the present incumbent as district judge, who seems to be able to grapple with the evil, and confine it within the least possible unwholesome limits. The visit to Alaska of Assistant Secretary of the Treasury Hamlin, last year, was followed this spring by the appearance in the waters of Southeast Alaska of an additional revenue cutter for the pnrnose of suppressing the smuggling of whisky from British Columbia, and although she patroled the waters diligently for sev- eral weeks, ahd sent officers ashore for the purpose of intercepting cargoes of liquor known to have been shipped into the territory by small sloops, the vigilance of the search was rewarded by the cap- ture of but a few hundred gallons, and the cutter finally aban- doned the effort and returned to Puget Sound. The nature of the country is such that its many intricate and winding channels afford most favorable opportunities for the smuggling of liquors into the territory, and it is doubtful if any rules could be adopted, even to the regular patroling of its waters by government vessels that would prevent the traffic. An idea of the extent to which this business is carried on may be gleaned from the fact that in the little town of Juneau, whose population does not exceed two thousand souls, there are twenty saloons in actual operation. The impos.sibility of suppressing this traffic has become so apparent that the best and most respected citizens of the territory unite in the opinion that the only way to regulate the trade is to have a license law. If such v/ere the case the men who pay a license for the privilege of carrying on the business would see that only those who are legally authorized are permitted to engage in the traffic. This would suppress the dangerous ele- ment known as "boot-leg" venders, who sell whisky by the pint or quart to the Indians. Many evils which now exist would by this means be effectually remedied, and the government would still retain a source of revenue. In 1888 the Democrats of Alaska formed a party organization and sent two delegates to the Democratic National Convention. These delegates were permitted to take their seats, and this was the first representation of the territory by her citizens. In the fall of 1889 the Republicans organized and held a con- vention at Juneau, and adopted a memorial to be presented to members of Congre.ss. The author of this book who drafted the HISTORY. 17 memorial was delegated to proceed to Washington and present it to both houses of Congress. He was also chosen a member of the National Republican Convention from Alaska. The memorial referred to represents clearly the condition of affairs in the territory and is here given in full, as follows: TO THE REPUHUCAN MEMBERS OF THE UNITED STATES SENATE AND HOUSE OF RKPRESENTATIVKS. We, the Republicans of Alaska in convention assembled, respectfully represent to your honorable body, that on this the fifth day of November, 1889, a day when the Republicans in the various States and Territories of the Union are ' jntesting for the principles of our great party, we are denied that sacred privilege. Among the great territories of the west we alone stand a monument representing coiiplete and utter isolation and non representation. With an area sufficient tc; form a dozen States, with resources unnumbered and un- limited, with no manner of expressing our just needs or to demand our just rights, with a population of upwards of ten thousand whites and fifty thou- sand natives, among whom are many intelligent and industrious, we come to you for relief. With no means of acquiring title to property in which our capital is invested and our labor is expended, we ask the passage of such laws as will afford us relief in this direction. With many of our people desirous of securing land upon which they can engage in farming, stock-raising, dairying and ether pursuits of husbandry, we ask that the homestead laws be extended in such manner as will open up this domain for that class of our citizens. With hundreds of thousands of dollars invested in the fish industry we ask the passage of such laws as will secure titles to their property, and en- courage the development of one of our greatest resources, and one which is fast becoming valuable to the nation at large. With vast forests extending throughout the territory we ask that the present laws relative to the cutting of timber be .so modified as to allow it to be used for domestic purposes by the canneries in the packing and exporta tion of their fish, and by parties actually engaged in manufacturing enter- prises within the territory, and the exportation of furniture and other wooden-wares, etc., etc., and manufactured from our native timber. The judiciary of Alaska is anomalous, lying between and dependent upon the general laws of the United States and the general laws of the State of Oregon, and having no true basis from which it can be interpreted. Therefore we ask that a code of laws be enacted for the District of Alaska, suitable to our wants and circumstances and made applicable to our growing industries and connnunities To day Alaska stands alone among the great territories of the west with- out a representative upon the floor of Congress, and we deem it unjust that 2 ■ ' ' l8 ALASKA. a longer denial of the rights accorded other portions of our country should be imposed upon us. In presenting this memorial to your honorable body we humbly ask your unanimous aid in our behalf, and we will ever pray, etc. C. F. DEPUR, Chairman. C. S. ULACKETT, Secretary. The next Republican National Committee allowed Alaska the same representation as other territories, and the Democratic National Convention followed with a like action. During the winter of 1891-2, General George W. Garside and Miner W. Bruce labored with both houses of Congress to secure the pa.ssage of such laws as were demanded by the memorial ; their efforts were so far successful, that the house comni'^ no one to whom she has a .ight to appeal for aid. The members of Congress from other States and Territories have their own constituencies to look after; and the demands upon their time by legitimate claimants are so many and so great that they can hardly be expected to labor for the interests of a country so remote and of which they know so little. The next few years must bring about great changes in the governmental affairs of Alaska. In all probability the great sec- tion known as Southeast Alaska will become a Territory as soon as there shall be a sufficient numbei of people within its limits to bring about such result. At present there is a widespread feeling among the residents opposed to territorial organization, on account of a dread of taxes, and the expenses attendant upon the maintaining a form of government. But these objections will melt away with the onward rush of civilization. CHAPTER II. TOPOGRAPHY, i T^HE elements of grandeur, weirdness, solemnity and vastness enter, in a large degree, into a topographical description of Alaska. Its many interest- ing features hold the mind spellbound with awe, in their presence, and fill the memory with undying wonder. The labyrinth of verdant islands that diver- sifies the coast line; the swelling plains of the interior; gigantic mountain peaks, snow-covered and hoary with ^ age; the mighty glaciers — vast rivers of ice'which for centuries have slowly to the abyss of the ocean, and which, centuries will have entirely disappeared, so that future ages will know them only by the records of their awful sublimity; the active volcanoes rearing their smoking, often fiery, crests among the mountain peaks; and the valleys, great and .small, rich in natural resources of many kinds, which inter- sect the interior country in all directions. Alaska is naturally divided into tw^o great divisions — South- east and Western Alaska. Mt. St. Elias marks the dividing line between Western Alaska and Southeast Alaska, at 141 degrees west longitude, running north'from this point to the Arctic ocean. For a number of years it was supposed that Mt. St. Elias was within American territory, but late surveys show most of its base to be just over the line in the Canadian Dominion. Many of the islands in the inland, or tourist route, have the appearance of half-submerged mountains, .n ad water two hundred forged their way before many more 23 ALASKA. fathoms deep is often found, where the breadth of the channel can be almost spanned, by the length of the ship. Fiords are numerous, some of them winding in serpentine fashion a distance of twenty or more miles, into the islands or mainland. The great rivers of the interior drain immense valleys, with mountain ranges everywhere visible. L,akes are abundant, often surrounded bj- tundra or swamps, very frequently impene- trable, covered with brush, rank grasses, and other vegetation. After the interior is reached — and bj' this is meant after the coast mountains are crossed, in manj' places, only twenty or thirty miles from the coast — the soft earth and luxuriant vegetation of the coast country give place to frozen ground, and lichens and mosses on the mountain sides and in the valleys. But though the vast plains of the interior are completely within the grasp of the ice king, for eight months of the 3"ear, with the advent of the long days of summer water runs, flowers bloom, and grasses spring into life as if by magic, and their growth is at once lux- itriant and rapid, even though in many places the soil is never thawed beyond a few inches below the surface. In the far north at St. IVIichaels, and at Point Barrow, wells have been dug through sixty feet of solid ice, and the same con- dition has been noted on the Yukon, at Forty Mile. The Aleutian islands, stretching far out into the North Pacific, surrounded bj' rocks scarred and battered for ages, by the boister- ous waves, are without trees, but they are thickly covered with a low growth of luxuriant vegetation. Between the mountains and the sea are small plateaus or prairies, with soil enriched by vegetable mould, and suitable for domestic gardening. Grass grows abundantly here, sometimes to a height of six feet. It is cured by the natives, to feed a few small Siberian cattle, and they also braid it into useful and often ornamental articles, such as baskets, hats and mats. The growth of this grass is so abundant and prolific that investigators have predicted that this Aleutian country will yet furnish the Pacific coast with its best butter and cheese; while botanists agree that the southern coast country of Alaska abounds in grasses, and has a climate, perhaps, as well adapted for haying as the coast of Oregon. The Russians esteem Cook inlet, which lies to the north of Kadiak, to be the pleasantest portion of Alaska in the summer season. Its skies are nearly always bright, as stretching far in- I I TOPOGRAPHY, 23 ! i land in a northeasterly direction it is out of the region of fogs, which so frequently prevail on the coast. Its shores are pleasant, being well wooded and watered. Gold has been found in large quantities, and recent reports tell of still richer placer deposits having been discovered on the inlet itself and on the Kaknu river, which debouches into Cook inlet. The guiding landmarks of Alaska may be said to be its grand mountains, volcanic peaks and mammoth glaciers. Mt. St. Elias lifts its ermine top over 18,000 feet above the level of the sea. In the distance it seems to have its base on the very shore of the ocean, although in reality sixty miles distant. From the south side of Mt. St. Elias eleven glaciers slowly make their way ocean- ward, one of them, named Agassiz glacier, being estimated to be twenty miles in width and fifty in length, covering an area of one thousand square miles. Mt. Fairweather, one hundred and fifty miles south of Mt. St. Elias, is about 15,500 feet high ; Mt. Crillon, 15,000 ; Mt. Perouse, 14,300; and Mt. Wrangell is over 19,000. There are thirty or more volcanoes in Alaska, six or eight of which are in an active state of eruption. Shishaldin, which is 9,000 feet high, is certainly burning, and its smoke maj- always be seen in clear weather. It is situated on Unimak island near the pass of the same name, usuallj' followed by vessels in enter- ing Bering sea. Pavlof, about one hundred miles to the east- ward, is another smoking mountain ; the glow from its crater may be seen reflected against the heavens. Mt. Makushin, at the eastern extremety of Unalaska island, is about 5,500 feet in height, and gives evidence of being more or less active ; while the tops of Pogrumnoi and Shishaldin, on Unimak island, serve as beacons at night or in foggy weather for vessels on their way into Bering sea, as they can be seen distinctly, towering above the dense atmosphere. Akutan island has a smoking volcano, 4,000 feet high; and on Atka island there are several volcanoes, from 3,000 to 4,000 feet in height, which occasionally emit smoke. Mt. Logan, the highest known mountain in North America, unless it may be Mt. Wrangell, has an elevation of 19,000 feet. Some surveyors claim that Wrangell is a loftier peak than Logan, but its exact height is unknown. Wrangell is clearly within Alaska, but Logan is a few miles ea.st of the line, in Canadian territory. T a* ALASKA. Hot mineral springs abound all over.-the various island groups of Alaska, especially those stretching from the Alaskan penin- sula westward towards Asia. About fifteen miles south of Sitka, hot springs are also found, which possess great curative prop- erties. Consumption, scrofula, syphilitic diseases and rheu- matism are common among the aborigines, consumption being the most fatal ; while scrofula prevails to a great extent, aggra- vated, it is believed, by an almost exclusive fish diet and by rank uncleanliness. Syphilitic diseases, the terrible heritage left these natives, as the result of contact with sailors in the early days, anr" augmented by uncleanly habits, are likewise common. These diseases are said to yield readily to the treatment afforded by these natural health restorers, the hot springs, and it is claimed they can, to all appearances, be entirely eradicated from the system after a few weeks bathing and drinking the waters of these springs. They all possess similar properties, being strongly impregnated with iron, sulphur, and magnesia. During the Russian occupancy, bath houses were built at Sitka springs, and bathing tanks constructed, and natives and whites from this portion of the territory frequently visited them. Hot springs are also found near L,oring, and others at Hoonah, these being more patronized, because they are nearer the settled portion of the country. The aspect of the country about Bering strait is mountainous, but not extremely precipitous. From Cape Prince of Wales, another continent, Asia, may be seen, for the Siberian coast is plainly visible. Citizens of the United States, and the subjects of the Czar of all the Russias, metaphorically speaking, might stand on their respective shores, and clasp hands across the nar- row channel called Bering strait, which connects the waters of the Arctic ocean with Bering sea. This strait is but forty-eight miles wide, and the narrow pass- age is partially filled by I,ittle and Big Diomede islands near the middle of the strait. The islands are only two miles apart, and the line of demarcation between Alaska and Siberia runs midway between them. The shallow water of Bering strait, averaging only about twenty-seven fathoms in depth, and the .short distance between the two continents, give rise to interesting speculation concerning the connecting of the eastern and western hemispheres by a railroad which would, literally, girdle the world. Fancy i ■ I I TOPOGRAPHY. 35 leaving New York by special limited train, traversing the North American continent longitudinally to the great Yukon valley, then westward to Bering strait, crossing it with the trans- Siberian railway as a connection, and speeding on to St. Peters- burg, Paris, L,ondon, etc., and this is within the realm of possibility. Engineering skill has made rapid progress within a decade, and who shall say what the genius of man aided by wonderful inventions and electricity will accomplish! It will be a physical impossibility to span Bering strait with a bridge, owing to the swift current and the vast quantities of ice which, in winter, are continually flowing through, and which would speedily demolish such a structure. It may be possible, however, that the strait could be tunneled, but it is here sug- gested — as more practicable — that it could be filled in with rock, allowing suiHcient openings for the vraters to flow through, and for vessels to pass, thus forming an adamantine roadway between the extreme west and east, as represented by the United States and Siberia. The mountains that mark the westernmost point of the conti- nent at Cape Prince of Wales are rocky and barren, the ledges standing upon high pillars, with shattered sides, and uneven sur- faces. Towards the base, facing Bering strait, the slope is gradual, extending into a low sandy beach reaching out into the strait a mile or more and then bearing to the north. Endless quantities of rock could be taken from these mountains of solid stone and dumped into the strait, until a roadway, similar to the great wall of China, but deeper, and broader, and stronger, would rise from the bottom of the shallow waters. The expense, it is true, would be enormous — and no attempt is here made to discuss scientific difficulties in the way — but let it be remem- bered that all great engineer ing projects have been first ridiculed and denounced as chimerical, as, v/itness — the Suez canal, Nica- ragua canal, the Panama canal, and other great triumphs of engi- neering skill. The practicability of the Panama canal, in which the French people invested tens of millions of dollars, though yet uncompleted, has been fully demonstrated. To carry so gigantic an enterprise to a successful completion unlimited capi- tal and labor would be required. In the matter of labor, if white men could not be found, twenty-five thousand Eskimos, who are indefatigable workers, could be utilized. And should the enter- pp 36 ALASKA. prise be undertaken jointly, by the governments of the United States and Russia, the latter would, no doubt, make use of her convicts, as she is now doing in the construction of the trans- Siberian railroad. Alaska offers many inducements for railroad building. The physical contour of the country, especially in the interior, pre- sents few obstacles, and the numerous valleys afford natural ave- nues for the construction of the.se great highways. The rich gold fields, the mighty plains of the Yukon and its many tribu- taries, will yet hear the snorting of the iron horse, and the vast coal and gold fields, mountains of silver and iron ore, as well as many other natural resources of this country, will be opened up by the enterprise of the twentieth century. The idomitable energy and power of man will yet lay this vast country under tribute and cause it to yield a golden harvest. An all rail route from the new world to the old, across Bering strait, would be the connecting link to weld the nations together, in the development of commerce and of the untold riches of little known portions of the two vast continents. That this would be a mammoth luidertaking, is not denied, but it* possibilitj^ cannot be questioned. It is not all fanciful — "the unsubstantial pageant of a dream" — but is rather the living, actual reality, that before another quarter of a centurj' has rolled away a great international highway will be opened up and the nations of the world will become its patrons. CHAPTER III. I CLIMATE AND AGRICULTURE. T^HE beneficent Japan current influences the whole country, even as far north as the Kuskoqum river, and has the effect of soothing the climate of the north Bering sea coast. Precipitation is very great in the southern coast country. The air is cool during the pleasantest time of the year, in the long summer daj'S when the sun shines most. As a rule, it is clear but few days in the year ; usually, however, in June and July, the sun pierces the deep and heavy clouds that settle over the mountains, and brightens up the landscape. When the sun is obscured, it is liable to rain for days, and sometimes for two or three weeks at a time. But rains here are not so cold and chilly, as iti most countries, where cloudy or rainy weather pre- vails for long periods, and, as a rule, are warm and soft. The average rainfall along the coast is not far short of one hundred inches a year, and at Unalaska, in 1884, one hundred and fifty-five inches was recorded. The fall of snow in the coast country is also considerable. At times it covers the earth to a depth of three feet on a level, but is usually damp, and a snow storm is apt to turn into rain in a few hours, causing the huge bank and drifts to disappear. The mercury rarely falls to zero in any part of the southern coast country, it is more likely to register above freezing point than below during the greater part of the winter. The climate is much dryer in the interior, rain occurring as a rule, only in the spring and summer. In severe showers it is sometimes accompanied by fierce thunder and lightning, which rarely is known on the coast. Probably no other section of this continent presents such a diversity of climate as Alaska. The heai of the summer in the interior is sometimes intense, often registering over one hundred degrees in the shade, and it has been known to burst a spirit thermometer after graduating up to one hundred and twenty. 38 ALASKA. Summer heat, however, is quickly followed by winter cold, and the mercury will fall to fifty or sixty degrees below zero. On one occassion, at Fort Yukon, it was known to have reached seventy degrees below zero. The winter begins about the fir..t of October and lasts until the first of June. The mean temper- ature during the months of December, January, and February, is about twenty-four degrees below zero. This cold weather and long period of winter is felt to within a very few miles of the coast, or from the point where the mountains are crossed. Nothwithstanding the marked variations in the climate, Alaska is essentially a healthy country. The only prevailing diseases are those of a bronchial nature, and in most cases these troubles can be directly traced to imprudent exposure. The snow of the interior partakes much of the character of frost, sifting slowly down in intensely cold weather until it lies several inches deep, light and fluffy; but at times, in warm weather, it thaws and settles into a hard crust, affording excellent surface for sledding. The great precipitation and humii" y of the atmosphere in Southern Alaska cause the entire coast region to be clothed in a mantle of perennial green. Vegetation is dense, and the forests magnificent, The soil is rich, though in the heavily timbered section, it is shallow ; and from the most eastern point of the territory to Kadiak, root crops are easily grown. Radishes, let- tuce, carrots, onions, cauliflower, peas, turnips, cabbage, beets, celery and potatoes, yield prolificly. On one-sixth of an acre at Sitka, eighty bushels of potatoes have been raised. It was, however, a plot of ground that had been formerly used by the Russians as a garden and was carefully prepared. Strawberries grow with the greatest spontaneity, and have a flavor equal to those of southern latitudes. Some extensive fields of straw- berries are found under the very shadow of the glaciers, both at Glacier bay and at Yakutat. Potatoes are grown in most of the native villages along the coast country. No system of planting is followed, the rule being simply to bury a whole potato in the ground and when the vines appear above the surface thin out if necessary ; dirt is then heaped in a soft hill with but little of the care given this crop by practical farmers. The potatoes g^own here have an excellent flavor, but are inclined to be watery. The cultivation of the soil by the natives is of the most primi- tive character, and that by the whites is carelessly done. CLIMATE AND AGRICULTURE. »9 Oats, barley, and wheat have been grown on the Stikeen river, where the climate is colder and dryer. The precipitation on the coast is .so great that it is doubtful if cereals could mature, except in a dry season. They grow very rapidly, but run largely to stock, and before they can mature, are cut down by frosts or mould through dampness. Silos and ensilage would undoubt- edly be a success here. Cattle prefer the hay of the country to that imported, and if the two are fed to them mixed, they will separate the native hay and eat it first. As soon as the snow has disappeared in the spring, masses of herbage spring into life and quickly blossom. Fruits rapidly mature and harvest closelj- follows seed time. It is a surprising fact that not only on the coast, but also in the interior, small fruits, especially raspberries, blueberries, cranberries and red currants everywhere abound. When the sun shines continually for twenty-four hours vegetable life is extremely rapid, notwith- standing the .shortness of the season. The capability of the soil of Alaska under a proper system of cultivation, both on the coast and in the interior, remains yet to be demonstrated. It is hoped that agricultural experimental stations will be established by the government, in the different parts of the territory, say — one at Chilkat, one at Kadiak, and one in the interior. If this is done intelligent and practical experi- ments with the various grains, roots, and grasses suitable to these latitudes can be made. In the .spring of 1894, the author had the honor of appearing before the house committee on agriculture in support of establishing stations as above; and a bill appropriating fifteen thou.sand dollars for the purpo.se was unanimously re- ported, but it met with the usual fate of Ala.skan measure.s — was never reached on the calendar. From the climatic influences known to exist, and the good results achieved by the crude, tentative experiments already made, one can fairly infer that the conditions are favorable for certain kinds of crops which only intelligent experimenting will determine. Stock raising in Alaska, also, must first be investigated. Along the coast the chilly air of fall and winter is very trying, and cold rains, snow, .sleet and severe winds are all encountered. F^xperimcnts, heretofore made, have not proved entirely satisfac- tory. Foot rot in sheep has interfered with this industry, to some extent, but experienced stockmen, familiar with the interior of 30 ALASKA. the territory, are confident that it presents excellent opportunities for the successful raising of cattle; and believe it is possible that the great interior may, within a very few years, become a feed- ing ground for tens of thousands of sheep and cattle. The tundra moss-covered regions, suitable for reindeer grazing, prevail throughout the whole western coast country, and, in the interior, for many miles nutritious grass and moss are everywhere found in abundance. CHAPTER IV. MINERAL AND TIMBER. T^HE first discovery of gold in Southeast Alaska was near Sitka, in the year 1873. It excited much interest in the small settlements throughout the southeastern coast, and pros- pecting soon commenced in earnest. Miners from the old Cassiar region in British Columbia, and the northwest territory, began to push forward into Alaska, and, in the summer of 1880, gold was discovered in the vicinity of Juneau. From this date may be reckoned the developments that have reached such large pro- portions and drawn the attention of the whole mining interests in America to our Alaska possessions. The little Indian settlement at the head of Gastineau channel, which had rarely seen a white man, was soon enlivened by the tents and rude huts of the miners, which were scattered along the coast for many miles; and back into the interior went prospectors, singly, and in parties of three or more, in search of gold, as very strong indications led them to believe, it lay somewhere in this vicinity. Joseph Juneau was the first man to demonstrate the existence of gold in this district in any considerable quantities. During the early days of the settlement there seemed a disposition to bestow honor upon one Richard Harris, a partner of Juneau, by naming the first mining town after him. So the town was first called Harrisburg, subsequently named Pockwell, in honor of one of the officers of the United States steamer Jamestown, then located at Sitka; but the inhabitants finally determined to give it the name Juneau, which it now bears. Gold creek pours its waters down through the deep ravines and gorges that extend back from Juneau for four or five miles. It is impossible to estimate the yield of gold, but it is safe to say that it reached many thousands of dollars. While it was not claimed that any great amount was taken out by one individual, it is a fact that many men found diggings which paid them hand- ,r~ ■ 32 ALASKA. somely, and effectually demonstrated that they were in the heart of a rich gold region. About the time of the first gold excitement at Junedu, the re- port was circulated that gold had been found on the top of a mountain about two miles across the bay, and it was learned that a miner, known in camp by the name of "French Pete," had staked off a claim. Mr. John Treadwell was at this time pros- pecting in the region, and investigated this location; being con- vinced that it would prove good property, he purchased it for the sum of $400. By initiring energy, and persistent efforts, he de- veloped the property, forging his way almost inch by inch. He erected first a five stamp mill. The result was so promising that he found little trouble in organizing a company with capital suf- ficient to erect a one hundred and twenty .stamp mill, which, seven years after the first discovery, was enlarged to two hundred and forty stamps, and the largest mill in the world was soon pounding out gold. For the past seven years there has hardly been a break in the rattle of the machinery or the booming of the heavy charges of dynamite, as they are echoed and re-echoed over the channel to the town of Juneau. Day and night during this whole period, with the exception of the Fourth of July and Christmas, and, perhaps, one or two other days in the year, it has never been known to stop. In calling this the greatest mill in the world, we mean that it is fully equipped in every department pertaining to a well regulate 1 and efficient working property; and although the ore is knov.ii ,is very low grade, estimated by some as yielding only $1.85 i'« bullion to the ton of ore, the gold output from this mine since llic jull two hundred and forty stamps have been in operation has reached the sum of $70, 000 or $80,000 per month. While the di.scovery of this rich ledge awakened a widespread interest in Alaska, it was also the means of effecting the organ- ization of a company which perpetrated a swindle aggregating several hundred thousand dollars. A claim adjoining the great Treadwell nine, and represented to be fully as promising, was located, after i supposed thorough and careful system of pros- pecting. Gen lan and English capitalists were induced to take hold of it; tunnels were run, machinery erected, and everything made ready to Uart the operation of a huge plant, when it was discovered thaL the claim had been "salted." Work stopped at MINKRAI. AND TIMHICR. 33 once, and Mie mining world was startled by the atuiouncemciit that the Bear's Nest mine in Alaska was a gigantic swindle. This threw cold water upon the mining development of Alaska for a period of three or lour years, and no matter how promising a claim it could not be negotiated at any ])rice. Capitalists look- ing for investments were afraid to venture into Alaska. The rumor, too, became current that the Treadwell mine was a mere "blowout" or pocket, where, by a singular freak of nature, a lot of gold had been dumped in one huge pile, and that it would never be found in paying quantities anywhere else in the country, During this time, however, a number of men who had followed mining camps from tli*' oarliest days of California up thrf)Ugh Oregon, into the Cariboo and Cassiar regions of British Columbia, finally drifted into Alaska, and l)elieved they were yet within the mineral belt. Their entire energy and every dollar they could command were expended in the development of mining claims that were staked out in many places along the coast of South- eastern Alaska, and the result of their work has shown that t'leir confidence was not misplaced. Without entering into a detailed or tedious enumeration of the different cami)s or claims which have been prospected successfully, it is sufficient to say that all through the Southeastern Alaska coast to the end of the inland channel or tourist route, at the very gates of the Pacific ocean, wherein lies America's \'enice, gold and rich deposits of silver and galena ore are found. To the energy and steadfast belief of a few of the old .settlers in Sitka is due in no small degree the credit of establishing the fact that the gold belt of California and the Western Territories was not riven asunder when it reached the coa.st range; and when the mountains that tower behind the capital at Sitka are made to yield up the ore that livs buried in their innermost recesses, we believe it will prove to be as rich as any jet discovered in this country. In several places on Prince of Wales island, and north on Annette i.sland, a number of excellent locations have been found where free gold is scattered among the rocks. Within the past few months prospectors have located claims, the assays of which indicate large and rich deposits ot gold. The prospectors for silver, four or five years ago, met with good success, but on account of the depreciation in value of this metal the .search for it has been almost entirelj- abandoned. m" 34 ALASKA. ! Passing north towards Juneau, at Sum Duni, is located the Bald Eagle mining claim, which after being thoroughly pros- pected was sold a lew months ago for many thousands of dollars. The present season is seeing the erection of a ten -stamp mill at this place; the owners feel fully justified in the expenditure because the ore shipments from this mine to the Puget Sound smelting works promise rich results. The ore is valued at up- wards of one hundred dollars per ton. Northward, within four miles of Juneau, at Sheep creek, the Silver Queen mine is located and a ten-stamp mill in operation. Adjoining, claims have, during the past four years, been jirospected, until the probabilities are that this will be the seat of active and extended operations the coming year. Within a radius of four miles of Juneau, besides the great Treadwell mine, there are eight mills in operation and the output is such as to encourage the com- panies in extended and most active prosecution in the work of development. Gold creek, which comes down through the mountains north of Juneau, and flows into the bay in a rushing torrent of water, drains about four miles of country, and upon both sides the rugged mountains .sf.ems to be interwoven by rich ledges of gold quartz. Six stamp mills are constantly at work eight months of the year, and the coming season will .seethe beginning of develop- ment by the erection of mills on several other claims. A num- ber of placer claims have been successfully operated there for a number of years, and at what is known as the " basin " many thousands of dollars have been spent in getting ready to operate by hydraulic machinery' what promises to be valuable property, Acro.ss the bay adjoining the great Treadwell mine, at what is known as the Mexico mine, a sixty-.stamp mill is in operation which will be enlarged by an addition of sixt}' more this coming .sea.son. To the east of that is the Ready Bullion, and a two hundred-stamp mill will be operated the coming year; tliese two claims are >wned or controlled by the company that owns the great Trradwell mine. Towards Lynn canal, sixty miles from Juneau, the Berner's Bay mining property shows indications that the richness and quantity of this ore will prove as great as any yet found. On Admiralty i.sland, at Kunta bay, al.so, is a group of what will probably prove one of the richest mining camps in the whole of Southeast Ala.ska. A number of ledges are found that contain MINERAL AND TIMBKR. 35 cated the hlj- pros- )f dollars. ip mill at penditure et Sound ed at np- ithin four mine is g, claims until the extended r miles of light mills the com- le work of lins north of water, sides the es of gold months of 3f develop- A num- [ there for i'm " many to operate '. property. e, at what 1 operation his coming and a two these two , owns the e Werner's :hness and bund. On what will le whole of lat contain rich ore and rock, which, when pounded out from any of the.se ledges, yield in every instance exceptionally rich deposits of gold in the bottom of the pan. At Glacier bay there are many strong indications of silver, the veins being easil}' traced along the sides of the mountains, which are entirely nude of vegetation. On Willoughby island, in par- ticular, there are rich galena deposits, and up to the time of the depreciation of silver extensive preparations were made to de- velop several of these properties. At the extreme end of Glacier bay are very rich deposits, in which native silver has been found among galena. The owners are carefully doing their assessment work each year and waiting for silver to appreciate so as to re- sume operations. Pa.ssing outside of the waters of the inland canal into the North Pacific, rich mineral indications are foimd along the coast at Lituya bay. Rich deposits of ruby and black sand stretch along the coast for many miles towards Kakutat. The quality of the gold found in this region is fine, but amalgamates readily, and is easily saved by careful sluicing. Although there has been considerable work in this region at placer mining during the past four or five years, there seems to be quite an extensive range of country yet unworked, or, for that matter, unprospected. Prac- tical miners who have investigated this portion of the coast believe that a rich and extensive mining section will here be opened up. There is no doubt that gold exi.sts in Cook inlet, but to what extent remain.-, to be determined. The early Russian .settlers are known to have worked at placer mining at Cook inkt, but ''s yet prospecting to any great extent has not been done in this region. For the past four or five years prospecting has been carried on at Unga, on the island of that name, and the work has been tlh . igh and exten.sive. A ten stamp mill was first erected, and last year the capacity increa.sed to forty stamps, and the Alaska Commercial Company, who own the property, feel satisfied that they have a mine which it will take many years to exhaust, and that will prove a paying investment. This section of Alaska has every indication of rich mineral deposits, but when it is con- sidered that the white settlements are very scarce, the means of communication with the outside world very uncertain, and the cost of p -ovisions and supplies very expensive, it is not to be 36 ALAvSKA. wondered that so little has been done and so little known of the resources of this vast country . At Golofnin bay, Norton sound, some ten years ago, indica- tions of rich galena deposits were found. The discoverer returned to San Francisco with a few samples of the ore, the assay of which proved to be very rich. A schooner was fitted out and sent there the following season, and in due time was loaded down with the ore; but soon after leavmg the bay a severe storm was encountered, and when last seen by the natives on shore she w ;s laboring in a heavy sea, and nothing more was ever heard ot Iif- Subsequently another vessel was fitted out and considerable o.'. was taken to San Francisco, which proved so rich that a com- pany was organized ano in 1 891-2 $60,000 was expended on the mine. Another large quantity of ore was shipped to San Fran- cisco, which proved to be as rich as any heretofore taken from this mine, but on account of difficulty among the members of the company work on the property was abandoned. It is understood, however, that the quality and quantity of ore found here are sufficient to pay a handsome profit for its shipment to San Fran- cisco, even at the present price of this metal. It is expected the company will resume operations on an extensive scale this coming .season. The only indications of mineral to any extent north of this point are those reported by Lieutenant Stoney, who .spent two or three years in the region of Kotzebue sound some years ago; he having found gold along the Selawik and Buckland rivers. Last summer the author saw an Eskimo near Fort Mor- ton who had in his possession fully an ounce of course gold, tied up in .seal skin, which he had found on the Kowak river. Southeastern Alaska is well timbered, the prevailing varieties being spruce and hemlock, red and yellow cedar. The spruce and hemlock found here are usually of large size, often a hun- dred feet high and six and iight feet in diameter. The yellow cedar is a beautiful wood, admitting high polish, and is especially adapted for manufacture of furniture. It may easily take the place of mahogany and other tropical and .sub-tropical woods. The yellow cedar grows many feet in height traighf nnd clear, without any d.fect whatsoever. The wood, wlieu polisiied, pre- sents a beautiful yellowish hue and is hard and oonif), i though easily worked. Little is known of the e 'tent ot the yellow cedar, but no doubt explorations will discover considerable areas L--?.. MINERAL AND TIMBER. 37 vn of the I, indica- returned assay of out and ded down torm was e she was rd ol i;t"- rable o<<. at a coin- led on the San Fran- iken from )ers of the iderstood, here are San Fran- pected the liis coming rtli of this v'ho spent ome years Buckland Fort Mor- gold, tied er. g varieties 'he spruce ten a hun- Mie yellow j especially y take the cal woods, and clear, •sued, pre- ■:t though :he yellow rable areas of this valuable wood. From Sitka westward, the forests become scrubby and the timber small in size, but alder and willow are found in many places. The timber line extends to a height of about fifteen hundred feet. The timber along the lower portion of the Yukon is composed prnicipally of willow, alder and cotton- wood. Towards Norton .sound, it grows to a fair size. Spruce is also found, as a rule, on most streams emptying into the Yukon river and Bering's sea. The rivers entering the Arctic as far north as latitude sixty-.seven degrees are more or less timbered ivith the same variety. Along Wood river there are some fine groves of large spruce timber, and back in the interior, and along the banks of the rivers and on level stretches of country, fir tim- ber is also found to considerable extent. Dwarf-spruce, cotton- wood, alder and willow, are also found in the Nushagak and Kuskoqum regions. The willow usually found along the coast west of Mt. St. Elias is .scrubby, but in the moraines of that mountain and along the delta of the Copper river it grows to a height of fifteen or twenty feet. In the vicinity of the Noatuk river, in latitude sixty-seven degrees north, spruce, birch and Cottonwood are found of a stunted growth, fit only for fire wood and the construction of log houses. Tn the Yukon country, from Five Fingers all the way to Koserefski mission, on the Yukon, the timber growing along the barks i.- principally willow, alder and spruce, the latter being the \ir.v; ili'.g variety. It is generally scrubby but many good sized i.-et.. J f found. The islaiios in the river from Five Fingers to the m 'Tth r.^' the Yukon are generally well timbered, the larger islaiivl- .-^.ug better wooded than the main land. The coal resources of Alaska are lying dormant because the time does not seem to have arrived for the necessity of the opening up of the mines. A number of small veins or .seams have been found on several of the islands in the Southeastern Ala.skati country. Those which, perhaps .so far have attracted the most itteudon, are on Chicagofif island near Killisnoo, where every .).;'Jiciii.ion promises an extensive deposit. All thecoalTound in .\ ia;ka is bituminous, and of a very good quality. Deposits have fKon found on the headwaters of the Chilkat river, Lituya bay. Cook inlet, Unga island and Port MoHar. The most extensive coal fields or deposits are in the Cook inlet country, ^cropping out on the beaches, and along many of the streams. Unga i.sland has throe distinct veins of coal extending a distance of two miles 38 ALASKA. upon the sides of the mounlains, each of them being several feet thick. Some work has been done here within the last few years and government vessels have experimented with the coal, but find it Contains a considerable amount of ashes and clinker. Doubtless when a greater depth is reached it will improve in quality North of Unga i.sland, about ten miles inland from Stepovak ^ny. is a trail or portage about ten miles long leading to Herendei i at Port Mollar, on the Bering sea side. An excellent quail '' coal is found here in large (juantities. The Alaska Commercial Company, the principal owners of the mine, have shipped considerable coal to their station at Unalaska ; and its quality, both for steaming and house purpo.ses, is found to be superior to that found at Uiiga. Extensive coal fields exist at Cape Lisburne, on the Arctic side, extending for thirty or forty miles parallel with the coast and for a number of miles back into the interior. It is of a lignite character, and the government vessels Corv.'in and Thetis have taken coal for steaming purposes from here, and have found an excess of ash and clinker, which .seems to be the general fault with all coal thus far discovered in Alaska. Strong indications of petroleum are found back from the coast a few miles, in this cold Arctic region, and also between Icy bay and Cape Yaktaga. On the North Pacific coast, west of Yakutat bay, there are ex- tensive deposits or indications of petroleum. Practically all the coal u.sed by ves.sels navigating the Alaskan waters and in the mills and towns of Alaska is brought from the Puget Sound country and British Columbia. It is bought at the mines for about three dollars per ton, and the expense of shipping to the Southern Alaska ports is five or six dollars per ton. The expen.se of opening up a coal mine is .so great that until there is a large demand in Alaska, it is doubtful if any of the mines will be worked. ...^: east thos( twel ing a fe mile cauj at opei beir and to 11 salr too cloh eral feet w j'cars oal, but clinker. )rove in nd from leading dc. An s. The le mine, ca ; and lul to be e Arctic he coast a lignite ;ti.s have found an jral fault dications in this Vaktaga, i are ex- lyall the id in the 2t Sound nines for ng to the ; expense s a large 3 will be CHAPTER V. r IS I IK R IKS. "^^HE fish industry of Alaska is destined to assume immense proportions. Upon the authority of Professor Bean, of the United States Fish Commission, more than one hundred va- rieties of fish are found in the Alaskan waters. vSal- mon, ranking first in im- portance, is found in great numbers in the streams from the lowerextremity of South- east Alaska to the Arctic ocean. The most favored varieties are tho.se known as the red or silver salmon, weighing from eight to twelve or fifteen pounds each, and the king salmon often weigh- ing as high as fifty pounds. The latter variety is found only in a few localities in Southeast Alaska and in the Yukon, many miles above its mouth. It is said that specimens have been caught weighing over one hundred and twenty pounds. The first salmon cannery in Alaska was erected in 1878, and at the present time there are thirty-six, most of them are in operation each .season. The growth of this industry was extremely rapid, canneries being constructed at a cost of from fiftj- thousand to one hundred and twenty thousand dollars each. Enormous profits gave rise to much speculation, but it was found that the supply of canned salmon when the canneries were run at their fullest capacity was too great for the demand. In 1892, a combination or trust was formed, which resulted in closing down several canneries, but the owners came into a gen- !■ 4o ALASKA, eral pool and received a pro rata interest in the proceeds arising from the packs of the canneries in operation. Some of these can- neries have a capacity of from fortj- thousand to sixty thousand cases each year, and when it is understood that a single case contains four dozen one pound cans, and that in the year 1SS9 the combined pack of all the canneries was nearly seven hundred thousand cases, an idea can be formed of the vast number of salmon caught. It is unusual for more than one establishment to be found on any salmon stream, but at Karluk, on the northwest side of Kadiak island, a small stream not exceeding sixty feet wide at its mouth, there are five canneries, and the salmon seem ine^ haustible. The river at its mouth, and for a long distance out into the salt water, during the spawning season, when the salmon are on their way to the lakes above for the purpose of depositing their eggs, seems to be fairly swarming with these fish. They fill the water to such extent as to almost dam it up, and those below, in their eagerness to ascend the river, crowd those on top so that their fins and part of their body are exposed to view. The first season I behf^ld the sight I thought an appropriate name would be the " River of Life." While it will not be fair to charge these canning companies with being directly antagonistic to the settlement and develop- ment of Alaska, it is true that their influence has always been exerted in that direction. It has been the practice of these cor- porations to bring all their help from outside the territory. Not only are their fishermen brought from the Pacific coast States, but the entire canning force — and each establishmentemploys from forty to seventy-five men — are Chinamen. There are two exceptions, however, where the natives do most of the work of canning salmon, namely, at Klawak and New McUakahtla. It requires no special skill to catch salmon, yet it has been the custom of these canneries to bring white men into the country in the spring, for the purpose, and take them back to their home when the fishing season ended. It has been also the practice to pay the men for their season's work after they have reached their homes, thus, not only taking the product of the streams awaj' without paying a dollar for it, but depriving the territory of the benefit resulting from the labor therein, which would con- tribute in no small way to the sapport and upbuilding of the country. If these industries would employ white men altogether arising ;se can- oiisand le case r 1SS9 undred liber of I it woi selves idle. the cc each ■ each In are u Fort they try o nishe Sc heml mean donr notd T stric impc as tc peric impc ueri( and to u stru to p 1 tion the was 1 nea: cha in a ern sou isla In FISHKRIRS. 41 it would bring into the country many who might identify them- selves with it in some way, during the months the canneries are idle. Again, in the packing of salted salmon, the interests of the country are not considered. Fully seven thousand barrels, each weighing two hundred pounds, are prepared for the market each year. In the preparation of salmon an enormous quantity of boxes are used, but the sawmills of the territory arc not patronized. For the material is imported and the boxes are put together as they are needed, though they might be manufactured in the coiui- try of as good quality of timber, at less cost, than they are fur- nished under the present system. Southeast Alaska is covered with a dense growth of spruce, hemlock and cedar, which should be a source of income and a means of employment for a large number of men, but it is lying dormant because one of the great industries of the territory does not deem it proper to encourage manufactures within its borders. The liberty these canneries take in catching fish without re- striction is a feature of tli's subject which is liable to be of great importance to the people who will in time inhabit Alaska, as well as to the many thou.sands of natives, who have, from the earliest periods, subsisted upon fish food. Restriction should have been imposed upou them a number of years ago. Some of the can- neries have erected traps at the mouths of the different streams, and few salmon are permitted to escape It will not be difficult to understand, therefore, that in a few years streams thus ob- vStructed must become exhausted, unless some means are adopted to prevent this wholesale destruction. Two years ago Congress passed a bill forbidding the construc- tion of traps, and sending oihcers into the territory to execute the law, but failing to make an appropriation, of course the law was inoperative. Alaskan codfi.sh industry promises to become extensive in the near future. Cod are found in large quantities along the Aleutian chain of islands, as far west as the Alexandria archipelago, and in a general way they may be said to exist along the whole south- ern coast of Alaska. In the vicinity of the Kadiak group of islands, and still further .south to the Simeonoff, and at the Sliumagin group, about the islands of Magipopf and Unga, cod are found in great abundance. In Bering sea, towards the lower Siberian shore, they are also m MW I 42 ALASKA. found in large ([iiantities. Two San Francisco firms are the only parties engaged in the catching and shipment of cod at the pres- ent time, but they seem to have developed the business sufficiently to meet the demand, for they have a number of vessels each season employed in the traffic. The manner of fishing is usually from dories. The fishermen are paid at the rate of $25 for every thousand fish caught, and they are to measure at least twenty- six inches in length. If smaller fish are accei)ted, say measuring from twenty-four to twenty-six. two fish are counted as one. So it will be seen, that these fish are caught with considerable ease and in great quantities, in order to pay the fishermen $50 per month, the amount they expect to make from the cruise. Next in importance to the cod ranks tlie halibut, which is found in vast c|uantities in the waters of the inland canal, among the more shallow waters of the North Pacific, and in some por- tions of Bering sea. They often weigh two hundred or more pounds, and one of the pleasures of tourists is catching the.se fish from the deck of the steamer while lying at some .station. The halibut is a .staple article of diet, both fresh and dried, with the natives, and it is said that the Alaskan halibut will compare favorably, if thej' do not excel, those caught on the Atlantic coast. A fishing concern in Sitka has recently put up a limited amount of smoked halibut, and it has proven a most delicious article of food. Very little effort has yet been made to force the sale, but the curing of halibut in this way may ultimately prove one of the leading industries of this country. There are immense schools of herring in most of the inland waters or estuaries of Alaska, and they too form an important element of the food supply of the natives. The greatest supply is found at Killi.snoo, on the we.st side of Admiralty i.sland, where, some twelve years ago, the large.st fish oil plant in the world was erected. Herring are caught by means of seins, and a single haul of twenty-five hundred barrels has been taken. After the oil is pressed from the fish, the refuse is put up as a fertilizer and shipped, principally to the Sandwich islands. The oolikon or candle fish are also found in the inland chan- nels, and in some localities of the North Pacific coast They are a species of smelt, and are about eight inches long and almost round. They are .so oily, that after being dried, they can be lighted and will burn completely up, throwing a glare like a I'ISHHRIIvS. 43 candle, as their name implies. The natives use these fish in greater numbers perhaps than any other variety. When boiled, they have a delicious flavor and are tender and delightfully sweet. The oil is considered a rare delicacy by the natives, and quite an industry is carried on among those living in localities far remote from this fish supply. Most of the varieties of fish found on the Pacific coast, together with clams, mussels, and crabs, are found in great abundance in all the waters of Alaska, but oysters do not exist, probably on account of the low temperature of the water. The species of whale known as the beluga or white grampus is native in the deep waters and has been known to ascend some of the larger rivers. The skin of this mammal is employed by the natives in the manufacture of rope, straps and soles of boots. The hair seal are found in great numbers in the waters throughout the whole territory, and, as is well known, constitute the principal food supply of the natives, and especially is this true in the northern waters. They delight to frequent the waters of Glacier bay, and the natives hunt them much easier among the bergs of ice than in the waters of the ocean. A white cloth is spread over the bow of the canoe, giving it the appearance of a piece of ice, and the natives dressed in jacket and hat of the same material, paddling among the ice, thus they are often enabled to get within arms length of their prey before it detects the deception. The walrus, a native of Bering sea and the Arctic, travels in herds, and in the long days of si mmer may be seen in large numbers lying lazily on the ice. The skin of this animal is used by the natives as covering for their boats, and the tusks are worked up into implements of the chase and hunt, but it is fast disappearing before civilization. Whale are found in all the deep waters, and even in the inland passages they may be seen sporting. It is not uncommon for schools of the black whale to be seen from the decks of the tour- ist steamers. While they cannot be properly considered as one of the resources of Alaska, still in the northern or Arctic region, they have formed one of the most important food supplies of the natives, but they are now becoming scarce. As on account of the high price of bone, whale hunting with steam vessels has been prosecuted with vigor, and in a few years they are destined to become extinct. ^ .v . w 44 ALASKA. Upwards of seventy-five vessels are now eii);aj;ecl in the whaling hnsiness, and they nnist penetrate several miles above Bering strait before they encounter any of them. The busines.s is hazardous and great risks must be run. In the summer of 1877 nearly fifty vessels were lost, and a number of crews perished, preferring to remain on the vessels rather than risk making their way across the sea to land. This catastrophe led the government to establish a rescue station at Point Barrow, the most northern point of Alaska, which is provisioned with sup- plies sufficietit to last one hundred men a year. It is in charge of a government official whose duty it is to render aid and succor to shipwrecked sailors. { c r. o ■/. the ihove ;ine.s.s ler of Tews risk led ■, the sup- larffc uccor c o ^ h ,1 lit 1 Urn I ■ l |^..JVV-'--x, turn k.A ■1 — m ,:,.>:. 1 oiy ■y^i ^ ■ 1 t 1 1 m I i n, . '•^ ^ T'', ^/^ 7 of he ra' tei Yi or w: lo bi SI ta ri g fc tl j< s a 1! I S c CHAPTER VI. ROUTE TO THE Yl'KON RIVER. T^HE head of steamboat navigation is at Ty-a, at the extreme northern point of what i.s known as the Chilkoot inlet branch of Lynn canal. The distance from salt water to the lakes or headwaters of the Yukon river, on the other side of the movnitain range, is about twenty -seven miles. The usual place for laying in supplies for a trip into the in- terior is at Juneau, where the route to the gold fields of the Yukon maj' be .said to commence. The quantity of supplies must be determined by the size of one's purse, but in no ca.se .should the journey be attempted without a supply sufficient to last at least two months. The fol- lowing list is about the a.s.sortment one needs: Flour, bacon, baking powder, beans, dried fruit, desiccated vegetables, butter, sugar, condensed milk, tea, coffee, salt, pepper, matches, mus- tard, cooking utensils, dishes, sheet-iron stove, woolen blankets, rubber blankets, oilskin bags, tools for boat building, such as jack-plane, whipsaw, draw-knife, axe, hatchet, pocket rule, uail.s, oakum, pitch, rope, mosquito netting, rubbc^- boots, snow glas.ses, and medicines. Ty-a affords the last opportunity for purrliasing supplies for several hundred miles. This point may be reached either on the mail .steamer to Chilkat, and thence by .small boat to T^'-a, a journey of about twenty-five miles; or direct from Juneau by small sailing craft or steamers that make trips as often as there are pas.sengers to carry. Miners generally employ natives to pack supplies across the mountain, the usual charge for this work being from $12.00 to $14,00 per one hundred pounds, and the distance is about twenty- seven miles. This great expense renders it advisable to carry only such supplies as will last during the trip. For many years the Alaska Commercial Company have had 46 ALASKA. trading posts at Forty Mile and other points, but the emigration has been so great within the past three years that a new company known as the North American '^rading and Transportation Com- pany, established quarters a half mile north of Forty Mile called Fort Cudahy, and the competition between the two companies has very much reduced the expense of living in the interior. The most favorable time for going into the interior is before the snow melts from the mountains, which does not occur until about the middle of April. The abrupt passages and what is known as the Summit, are better accomplished by hauling sup- plies on .sleds. After the summit is passed, if the journey is con- tinued before the ice breaks up, it often happens that long distances may be made by m?ans of sails raised on improvised masts on the sled. The .sledge should be about seven feet four inches long, seven inches high and sixteen inches wide, of strong but light timber, and the runners shod with either brass or steel, the former being preferable, because the sled will glide over the snow more smoothly in intensely cold weather, while steel is inclined to grind and lug very much as if it were being hauled over sand. When the weather is cold, if water is taken into the mouth and held a moment, then blown over the runner, a coating will immediately form, and if this process is repeated when it becomes a little worn off, one will be surprised to find how much smoother and easier the sled will draw. It is preferable to u.se the Eskimo mode of making sledges for Yukon traveling. They use no nails or bolts, binding the joints together with strong cords. There is much less danger in breaking, if made in this way, should the sled be overturned, as the joints will yield when thus tied together. After the ice has disappeared canoLs are used for the first six miles after leaving Ty-a. From this point the route lies through what is known as the canyon, t^uite a steep ascent is made until Sheep Camp is reached. Here a rest is taken to await favorable weather before attempting a passage over the .summit, about eight miles further up the rugged .sides of the mountain, and the mo.st difficult and tedious part of the journey. From the summit to the head of Lake L,inderman, nine miles must be traveled. It is down grade, and practically easy to accomplish with snow on the ground, but when bare it is quite difficult on account of rocks and bouldei.s. This portion of the route is easily accomplished by following the canyon. L,ake Linderman, the first water reached after passing over ROUTE TO THE YUKON RIVER. 47 I -■:. the suminit, is one of a chain of lakes and streams called by the miners the "headwaters of the Yukon," though British authori- ties describe them as the headwaters of Lewis river. The timber in this locality is sparse, of a poor (luality, and suitable only for rafts. A raft should be constructed in a manner that will afford protection from water a foot or more above the sides, otherwise the supplies are liable to be damaged, and they should be carefully enclosed in oilskin sacks at the outset of the journey. From the head of Lake Linderman, on both sides to Lake Bennett, the general character of the countrj- is mountainous, with narrow benches skirting the shore. The distance across Lake Linderman is nearly five miles, and from the foot of this lake about fifty yards of a portage is made of the one mile river to Lake Bennett, because this stream is very crooked and full of rocks, making boat pa.ssage difficult and dangerous, At the head of Lake Bennett, there are high mountains on both sides, but they begin to flatten out toward the foot of the lake. This journey, a distance of twenty-four miles, may be continued by a raft or by ascending a river, small in size, • iiich enters the lake from the west. Here timber suitable for boat building is to be found. The right- hand side of Lake Bennett should be fol- lowed until Cariboo crossing is reached. At this crossing, which is really the connecting water between Lake Bennett and Lake Tagish, for a distance of two miles a trail used by bands of cariboo can be traced along the foothills, hence the name. From Cariboo crossing past the main channel to head of Tagish lake keep left- hand shore to foot, a distance of nineteen miles. Lake Mansh, or Mud lake, is connected with Tagish lake by a wide river with a slow current, whose banks are bordered with low-lying slopes, timbered by cottonwood and white spruce. The distance is six miles, and in some places the water is very shallow. The trav- eler should follow the left bank of Lake Marsh into the river connecting this with Lake Le Barge, keeping on the right-hand side, to the head of the canyon twenty five miles below. If a man is a skillful navigator he can run his boat through the can- yon a distance of three-fourths of a mile and land on the right- hand side. If not, he had better make a portage. From this point he .should follow the left-hand side two miles to the head of White Horse rapids, and land on the left-hand side. Great caution .should be exercised in reaching the point where the land- T 48 ALASKA. U \< ill ii : iii ing is made this side of the White Horse. Through the White Hor.se one-half mile, in a low stage of water, the boat can be dropped with a line, but if the water is high, a portage of about one hundred yards must be made, and on the last pitch of the canyon another short portage of about one hundred feet will be necessary. From this point there is an open river to Lake L,e Barge. From the head to the foot of Lake Le Barge is a distance of about thirty-one miles and it averages five miles wide. The boat should be headed right straight for an island near the center of the lake and, if the weather is favorable, cross from island to right- hand side of lake. From the i.sland, the traveler should cross to the left-hand side of the lake if windy, and it is better to follow close to the shore. From the foot of Lake Le Barge to the mouth of the Hootalinqua river, about thirty miles, the water is very swift with many rocks, and extreme caution should be observed in navigating this portion of Thirty Mile river. From this point it is clear sailing for one hundred and thirty-three miles to Five Fingers, .so-called because of five columns of rock which partly obstruct the river, and whose outline resemble the fingers of the human hand. Five or six miles before reaching Five Fingers, the current becomes much swifter, and high hills hug the shore. The right-hand bank should be followed closely ; otherwise, the bend curves so .sharply that Five Fingers would be reached and a landiug could not be effected. This landing should be made twenty yards above Five Fingers in an eddy, and if the boat is heavily loaded it should be lightened before attempting to pa.ss. The run should then be made, landing on the right-hand side. Following the right hand shore all the way for about five miles. Rink rapids, one and a half miles in length (caused by a chain of rocks reaching nearly across the river), are reached. The right hand side or east .shore must be followed closely all the way. From this point the river is easy to navigate to its mouth. About fifty-five miles Iielow the foot of Rink rapids, old Fort Selkirk is reached. It is situated near the confluence of Pelly and Lewis rivers. Here a trading post is run by an old- timer named Harper, and this is al.so a winter port for steam- boats plying on the Yukon and its trilmtaries. The fort was pillaged and burned by coast Indians in 1853, and ruins of what once were chimneys only being .seen. From old Fort Selkirk the river has a uniform width, contains \ e White can be of about :li of the :t will be L,ake L,e stance of The boat center of to right- cross to to follow |he tnouth r is very observed rom this miles to ck which e fingers ling Five hills hug :1 closely ; ers would s landing . an eddy, led before Hiding on 11 the way in length river), are i followed navigate nk rapids, ifluence of by an old- "or steani- : fort was IS of wbat I, contains Vi'KON Miners Si.eddin(! Over Rovte. Winttr It Pond, Photo, Juniau, Alaikt, ROUTE TO THE YUKON RIVER. 49 many islands, and the country through which it runs is well tim- bered for some distance. The White river, a large stream hav- ing a ten or twelve mile current, comes roaring down from the west ninety-five miles from Selkirk. This river gets it name from the appearance of its waters which are of a muddy white hue. It is supposed to have its source in a number of high mountains and lakes to the west. Near its source, the Indians say, there is an active volcano which they call Smoky Mountain. The Yukon rapidly widens after being joined by the White river, and becomes a mile wide, i.slands dot its surface at frequent intervals, and the valley, too, becomes broader as if in sympathy with the river. Ten miles below the White, the Stewart river enters from the east. Its waters dark and deep are bordered by rugged hills which here and there assume the proportion of mountains. Miners are found on many parts of this river and its hundreds of miles of tributaries and gulches, many of which are unprospected It is probably four hundred miles in length. About seventy miles below the mouth of Stewart river, Sixty Mile creek, the next place of note, comes in from the west. It has a trading post and a sawmill, and is the headquarters of .some five score miners who generally spend the winter months there. It has a swift current, and is filled with rapids, and is therefore not easy of ascent. Below Sixty Mile creek the Yukon becomes placid and the number of islands increase. The valley narrows, and the hills become more abrupt, while on every hand abundant evidence of quartz croppings can be obtained. The next stream of note is the Forty Mile creek which flows into the Yukon a few miles west of the boundary line. At the J!' ction of Forty Mile creek with the Yukon, is located almo.s-t wii .n the shadow of the Arctic Circle, the Alaska Com- mercial Company's station, Forty Mile. It has been for a num- ber of years under the control of a man known by every person who has passed through the valley of the Yukon as "Jack" McQuestion. Of marked ability, and a man of the world, he has been the mainstay, the guide, the philosopher and friend of the miners, and is held by them in high esteem. Many an unfortu- nate prospector is aided by him, and seldom does he refuse an appeal for credit. A genial, friendly dispo.sition, with a heart "as big as an ox," he is ever ready to extend a helping hand, 4 50 ALASKA. »■ lll^ and all that is necessary to get a supply of food is to show a disposition to work. The town has a population of five or six hundred, and besides the Alaska Commercial Company's store, which, at the opening of the season carries a stock of goods valued at $125,000, there are restaurants, billiard halls, several saloons, an opera house, barber shops, and the town boasts of the finest residence in a region embracing three hundred thousand square miles of territory. It is a two-story building owned by Joseph Cooper, an old Colorado miner, and cost $3,000. The price of restaurant board is $12 per week, and whisky costs $9 a gallon, or fifty cents per glass over the bar. "This town on the Yukon," says a recent writer, " is an ideal '49 min- ing camp ; its saloons, gambling houses, concert halls, etc., give it an air of bustling activity, from which, however, the element of outlawry is almost entirely eliminated. Miners' law prevails, and justice is fairly and impartially administered. The entire Yukon valley bears an ei; viable reputation for peace and mor- ality. Simple, but eflfective self-adopted rules of goverment are found amply sufficient to insure order, and they are universally respected." About three-fourths of a mile below Forty Mile post, is a new and enterprising town named after Cudahy, so well known through- out the country as the packer of meats, and who is a member of the North American Transportation and Trading Company, bet- ter known in the Yukon valley as " Captain Healy's Company." This post was established in the summer of 1892. In size, population, and general business activity, and in the volume of business done, it is a duplicate of its neighbor. Captain Healy has established a number of posts on the river not heretofore covered by the Alaska Commercial Company. It is safe to say that these two concerns will control, for a long time, the major portion of the traffic of this country. Captain Healy is one of the best known pioneers of Alaska, having established and done a large business for a number of years, principally with the natives at the head of the Chilkoot arm of Lynn canal, where he established the trading post known as Ty-a. The able assistant in the management of Fort Cudahy, Mr. Charles Hamilton, went into this far off coun- try fre.sh from one of the government departments at Washington. In the fall of 1892, the company's river boat was detained by ice at Nulato, a short distance above the mouth of the Yukon. It became necessary to communicate with the head office at Chicago, I show a i or six s store, >f goods several ts of the housatid wiied by whisky "This 49 niin- :tc., sive element prevails, le entire md nior- 3vernient liversally is a new through- lember of any, bet- inpany." In size, •olunie of lealy has J covered hat these on of the >t known business e head of e trading ement of off coun- ihington. ed by ice kon. It Chicago, Yukon Minkks I'acki.m; Over Kovtk. Winter St Pond, Photo, Juneau, A'aika. and ^ of thi reachi remar credit the cc land t foUov with Al west, locate in th regio two 1 platt( locat( of si hund T fortl callei are s thet T the' havi into of til This of it ever mad wit! trad I wati Bel( thai ROUTE TO THK YUKON RIVKR. 51 and Mr. Hamilton undertook to make the trip the whole length of this river with dogs ; in about four months he succeeded in reaching the coast at the head of Lynn canal. It was a most remarkable trip ; and he is the only man who is entitled to the credit of having, — as a newspaper saw fit to express it, — "split the continent squarely in two." The next spring he went over- land to Forty Mile, where he met the boat on its up trip, and the following winter, he again made the trip to the coast, traveling with a dog sledge all the way. About one hundred and seventy miles from Forty Mile, to the west, the Yukon flats are encountered, and just within them is located a new mining camp called Circle City, which was founded in the fall of 1894. It is the distributing point for the vast regions .surrounding Birch creek, which flows into the Yukon two hundred and twenty-five miles below. Circle City has been platted into streets, and a recording office for this mining district is located here. Six miles westward from Circle City a portage of six miles carries the traveler to Birch creek, nearly two hundred miles above its mouth. The territory drained by the Yukon river in every direction, for three or four hundred miles in this region, is low country, called the Yukon flats. These flats, whose extent is not known, are supposed b}' miners and others to have at one time formed the bed of a vast lake. The principal tributary of the Yukon, below Birch creek, is the Tanana river, probably eight hundred miles in length, and having a number of other streams of considerable size flowing into it. The Tatiana drains the country stretching from the head of the river and the Yukon, to the White river on the south. This river has been very .slightly explored, and little is known of it, or of the natives who inhabit its banks. They are, how- ever, reported !)y the few venturesome jirospectors who have made their way wAo this section to be rather ill-disposed. Nuklukyeto is located at the junction of the Tozikakat river with the Yukon, vvhcrt the Alaska Commercial Company have a trading post ^vhich was established a number of years ago. About five hund'ed and fifty miles below the Tanana the waters of the Koyukuk river joins the Yukon from the north. Below the Koyukuk river, the only streams of any importance that empty into the Yukon are the Inuoko, coming in from the Sa ALASKA. south, and the Anvik, about thirty miles further down, which enters from the north. The only station at which the ocean steamers land having freight or passengers for the upper Yukon, is St. Michael's. This has been the principal trading post of the Alaska Commer- cial Company, and the outfitting post for their stations on the river, for the past twenty years. It is located about sixty miles to the north of the usual entrance to the Yukon, on what is known as St. Michael's island. The question is often asked why a location for a town Ins not been made nearer the mouth of the river, and thus obviating the necessity of the river boats steaming out into the open waters of Bering sea to take on their freight. So far as is known, there is not a suitable location where the high water, on the breaking up of the ice in the river, does not overflow. The Yukon is very shallow at its mouths, eight feet being the greatest depth found. The ice passes out of the Yukon, and leaves it free for naviga- tion, about the middle of June, but it is not clear for an approach to St. Michael's until several days later. If a station could be located within easier access to the river, it would afford an opportunity to get to the headwaters earlier. St. Michael's is, strictly speaking, a native town. Aside from the buildings and store of the Alaska Commercial Company and the residences of its employes, a church building and the residence of its pas- tor, the houses and residences are those of the natives. Enor- mous supplies of goods are shipped here every year for the trading posts and missions on the river, and during the two months at the opening and closing of the season, it pre- sents an air of bustle and business activity rarely found at any of the frontier Alaska towns. The new company, known as the North American Transportation and Trading Company, are making arrangements to build warehouses and a trading post about a half mile south of the old town. The Yukon river and its many tributaries, a number of which can be navigated by light draft steamers for several hundred miles, traverse an empire. The Yukon is navigable by four hundred-ton stern-wheel boats, drawing four feet of water, for a distance of eighteen hundred and fifty miles from its mouth, or to the mouth of Pelly river. It flows into Bering .sea through several different mouths, that farthest north being nearly one hundred miles distant from its most southern artery. Its course .oiiiiner- YUKON MlNICKS AND NaTIVKS I'ACKINC. Ovi:R RorTi;. Winter St Pond, Photo, Juneau, Alaska. ROUTE TO THK YUKON RIVER. 53 is westerly, but bends north to the Arctic circle when about mid- way across the territory. At the junction of the Felly and Lewis rivers it has an average width of perhaps three-quarters of a mile until it reaches Fort Yukon, where it is about eight miles wide, and again narrows to from two to three miles at the mouth of the Koyukuk river, and maintains this width to Koserefski, from which point it again widens to eight or ten miles, and car- ries this width towards its mouth, then flows into Bering sea through a number of different channels. The navigable tributaries of the Yukon for small, light-draft boats, may be grouped as follows : The Andreafski for fifty miles, Sbagluk slough fifty miles, Innoko fifty miles, Tanana three hundred miles, Klanarchargut twenty-five miles, Beaver creek one hundred miles, Birch creek one hundred and fifty miles, Koyukuk river three hundred miles. Porcupine one hundred miles, Stewart five hundred miles, Pelly fifty miles, and the McMillan two hundred miles. While the Yukon is navigable for a distance of one thousand eight hundr^i and fifty miles with a four hundred ton vessel, a one hundred and fifty ton steamer with powerful machinery would be enabled to pass through Five Fitigers and three hun- dred miles further through Hootalincjua river to the head of Tes- lin lake. CHAPTER VII. THE vrKON (lOLD KIKLDS. m mm. (^OLD was first discovered iti paying quantities in the Yukon basin in iSSi. In that year a party of four miners crossed the range and descended the Lewis river as far as the Big Salmon river, which they ascended for a distance of two hundred miles. Gold was found on all of its bars, many of which paid well. In the next three or four years some mining was done on the Pelly and Hootalinqua rivers, and, in 1886, gold in considerable quan- tities was found at Cassiar bar on the Stewart river. The richest, by the way, so far located in the Yukon country, yielded as high as one hundred dollars per day to each man. As early as i860 men in the employ of the Hudson's Bay Company are reported to have found gold in the Yukon basin. Professor Davidson credits George Holt as being the first white man to cross the coast range. A confusion exists as to the time of Holt's journey, the dates being variously given as 1872, 1874 and 187S. Holt went down the chain of lakes to Lake Marsh or Mud lake, as it is sometimes called, and then followed an Indian trail to the Hootalinqua river, where, he reported upon his return, he had found coar.sc gold. No coarse gold, however, has since been found on that river, but the liars yield large (juantities of flour gold. In 1880 Kdward Bean led a party of twenty-five men from Sitka to the Hootalintjua river, but met with indifferent success. Other parties also cros.sed the pass during the same year. The Yukon section may be divided into three divisions, namely, the upper lying entirely within Briti-sh territory, and embracing the White, vStewart, Pelly, Lewis and Hootalinqua rivers, which together form the headwaters of the main Yukon; the middle division includes Fort Reliance and the country down to the mouth of the Tauana river; the lower division stretches from the mouth of the Tauana to Norton Sound and Bering sea. «< r, O a K 71 ifi > tn H O a o o iSilll m m ?i II THE Yl'KON GOLD I'lELDS. 55 It is in the middle division that the recent discoveries have been made; on Forty Mile, Sixty Mile, Miller, Glacier and Birch creek, and Koynkuk river. Forty Mile and Sixty Mile creeks flow into the Ynkon from the west, having their source in the Ratzel mountains, a low, intermediate range running nearly parallel to the Yukon, and forming the divide between the Yukon and Tanana rivers. The streams putting into the Tanana on the west side of this range have not yet been explored; but lower down, along the banks of the Tanana, gold in paying quantities has been found, and a few of the bars worked. Recent estimates of the gold output from the middle division alone, for the past year, are placed at $200,000; while from $25,000 to $50,000 has been mined in the upper and lower divisions. Miller creek, one of the richest so far discovered in the inte- rior, is a tributary of Sixty Mile creek, entering it about seventy miles from its mouth. It is about seven miles long, and upwards of fifty mining claims have been located there, but few of them have, as jet, been developed to any considerable extent. Miners prospected this creek at various times for several years, each time abandoning it because the vast accumulations of drift found everywhere made it unprofitable to work. But, in 1892, pros- pecting again began, and many rich strikes were made. One claim alone yielding $37,000 of the yellow metal, and one clean- up of about eleven hundred ounces was reported. One hundred and twenty-five miners have located on this creek, many of whom own their own claims. The rate of wages here established is ten dollars per day, which is the usual price paid in all the camps. Glacier creek is another branch of Sixty Mile creek being .separated from Miller creek about three miles, and runs nearly parallel with it. Claims located on this creek and prospected last season, promi.se to equal in richness those of Miller creek, and rich finds have been reported here on claims abandoned by prospectors some time b ?fore. The whole creek has been located, The first claims were located the middle of last summer. The gulch is nine miles in length, and \aries in width from a mile and one-half at its mouth to sixty feet at the head. The prospects on Glacier creek are even better than those on Miller creek, the dirt yielding from a few cents to four dollars to the pan. Mining Recorder Paddock, of Glacier creek, speaks as 56 ALASKA. i follows of a trip made in the dead of winter from Fortj- Mile post: "I started on January the third from Forty Mile for Miller creek, distant about sixty-five miles, and arrived February 27th. The cold was severe, the thermometer ranging from forty- two degrees to seventy-seven degrees below zero, compelling me to lie in camp for ten days. I drew a sled which carried my small outfit, and meeting many steep and difficult places on the route, across gulches and over ridges, I was compelled on several occasions to divide my load and take it in sections." Another creek, distant about three miles from Miller creek, is named Bed Rock, but as yet has not proved very promising as a mining location. Indian creek flows into the Yukon about thirty miles below Sixty Mile creek. Plere rich gold discoveries were reported last year. The stream is rapid, but shallow, but prospectors have a.scended it a distance of over one hundred miles. Forty Mile creek is more familiarly known to the miners of Alaska, and perhaps to the people at large, than any other min- ing locality in the territory. Its bars have yielded large returns, but these diggings are practically abandoned for the gulches and ravines that furnish coarser gold. It is about two hundred miles long, and its tributaries are numerous. Entering the Yukon from the west, it drains the countrj' lying between the Yukon and Tanana rivers. It was not discovered until 1887, and was the scene of the first real excitement in the valley of the Yukon. This stream enters that river from the wast in about sixty-four de- grees north latitude and about one hundred and forty-one degrees west longitude. Its mouth is in Canadian territory. The first news of gold being found here was brought to the coast by a man named Tom Williams, who was the bearer of letters to "Jack " McQuestion, of the Alaska Commercial Company's trading post at the junction of Forty Mile creek with the Yukon, who was then in San Francisco, advising him of the discovery, and instructing him to ship in a larger supply of provisions in antici- pation of a rush to the new Eldorado the following .spring. Wil- liams was accompanied by an Indian boy with a dog team and sled. They had an extremely rough trip up the river. It was in the dead of winter and the cold was inten.se. Before reaching Lake Bennett the dogs all died from cold and exhaustion. At the summit of Chilkoot pass a fearful storm arose, and the strug- gling travelers were compelled to hastily build a snow hut in ty Mile *Iile for ebruary n forty- ing me 'iecl my s on the several ;r creek, ■oniising ;s below rted last )rs have niners of her mill- returns, ches and red miles e Yukon e Yukon and was 2 Yukon, -four de- e degrees Brst news 3y a man "Jack" ih\g post who was ery, and In antici- ig. Wil- team and It was reaching ion. At he strug- w hut in whic only badb was the 3 thro sixtt unti: his 1 hitt I it is lars sma ava hig' yet thr< the for ren aiK str otl: Yu Cil mi int Cl£ dl! dc pi fr« "1 ui fo ai S( tl THE YUKON GOLD FIELDS. 57 which they remained ten days, living on a little dry flour, the only thing left them in the way of provisions. Both men were badly frost-bitten, and upon attempting to resume the journey it was found that Williams was unable to travel. Nothing daunted, the young Indian took his companion on his back and, struggling through drifts and blinding snow, succeeded in reaching Ty-a, sixteen miles distant. A few days later Williams died, but not until he told Captain Heal}' of the strike at Forty Mile, and of his mail pouch containing his letters which was left at the snow hut at the summit, where it was afterward recovered. In the following spring active mining operations began, and, it is estimated, that since that time upwards of half a million dol- lars in gold have been taken out of Forty Mile creek, and the small feeders running into it. On Forty Mile nearly all the available rich ground has been worked out, but there are many high bars along the stream known to be rich, which have not as yet been touched, because of the difficulty of getting water through them, and the frozen condition of the ground. Birch creek, the .scene of the latest strikes and excitement in the Yukon country, runs parallel with the Yukon on the west, for over three hundred miles, and as elsewhere related, has a remarkable feature of a portage only six miles across between this and the Yukon, two hundred miles above its confluence with that stream, so a trip by water by one terminal of the portage to the other involves a journey of four hundred miles. Here on the Yukon side of the gateway to the Birch creek mines, is Circle City, and at the clo.se of the .season last fall, fully three hundred miners were to be found in the different gulches, many of whom intended to .spend the w-inter drifting, and opening up their claims. Ned Ayleward, a Birch creek miner, in describing the gold discoveries there, says : "'In coarse gold I got as high as .thirteen dollars to the pan. The gold is like pumpkin .seeds, but some pieces weigh from three to ten dollars, and I think I will make from forty to fifty dollars per day, when I have my claim opened up. In prospecting, I would get from fifteen to twenty dollars, under a little stone on bed rock. I did not leave Juneau broke, for in that ca.se I would have had to rustle for a "grub stake," and in all probability would not have made this strike. I have seen no quartz claims here that amount to anything, but am on the look out for them," 5« ALASKA. i Here arc* extensive auriferous deposits, and the creeks and bars adjacent to Birch creek have been more or less thoroughly prospected, with the result that this section bids fair to become a vigorous gold-producing rival of the famed Forty Mile district. One of the principal tributaries to Birch creek is Crooked creek, and from Circle City a trail leads over the hills to the mines on Independence and Mastodon creeks. On Molymute, a branch of Birch creek, gold was first dis- covered in 1S93, and since that time it has been found on tribu- tary streams. Birch creek has been explored for upwards of three hundred and fifty miles, and the entire distance is filled with rapids and canyons. The vSouth Fork drains the country lying at the head of Seventy Mile creek. Many claims were staked off last year at Mastodon, Independence, and other streams flowing into Birch creek. These claims are more easily worked than elsewhere on the Yukon and tributaries, from the fact that bedrock appears much nearer the surface, and water is more easily obtained. Some sixty miles below Birch creek portage Preacher creek joins the main stream. This creek is about one hundred and twenty miles long. It has been prospected but little, and not much is known of it, except that as everywhere else in the Yukon basin, gold is found. The headwaters of this creek penetrate a country whose geological formation is very peculiar, showing drift and disturbances which might have been caused by the receding of waters ages ago. Three years ago some rich gold discoveries were made on the Koyukuk river which were prospected vigorously the following year with good results. A number of creeks, namely. North Fork, Wild creek, vSouth Fork, and Fish creek, have also been pros- pected with fairly good success, but no extensive deposits have yet been found. Gold placer mining may be said to end here, as from this point to the mouth of the Yukon, little prospecting has been done. Below the Koyukuk river the only streams of any importance that empty into the Yukon, are the Innoko coming in from the south, and the Anvik from the north, about thirty miles further down. Numerous creeks have been prospected and successfully worked along the branches of the Yukon and other rivers, some of them proving very rich ; and during the past two years richer and more extensive deposits of gold have been found in this country, until to-day, the interior of Alaska is believed by many 1 THK Yl'KON r.oi.l) I'Ii;i,I).S. 19 to be the largest placer i. lining district on this continent. V^ari- ous estimates have been made of the amount of gold taken out in the past two years, some of them reaching as high as one mil- lion dollars, but it is doubtful if more than half that amount has been found. A number of miners have taken out as high as $12,000 or $15,000, but, with few exceptions, the.se amounts were not wa.shed out by individual miners, but by the combined work of .several men. In another chapter reference is made to the climatic conditions exi.sting in Alaska. The dilTerencc in climate between the coast country and that of the interior is very marked. .Ml along the Kusko{|uim river, during the summer months, there is an ex- cessive fall of rain, while in tht- interior it is very dry. Refer- ence has also been made to the condition of the ground in the interior, and it is from the fact that the frozen earth extends to a depth of many feet below the surface, that placer mining in the interior is very difficult. The surface of the ground is covered with moss often to the depth of eighteen inches, and the hot rays of the sun during the long days of summer are not able to penetrate sufficiently to thaw the ground underneath. It is only where the moss is stripped, and the bare surface is reached by the sun's rays, that it thaws to any extent. This method is often resorted to by the miners, in order to get the ground in readiness for their sluicing work. The ice does not usually pass out of the Yukon until the first or middle of June, but when it starts, it goes quickly, and miners are soon hard at work, digging into the bars and working their sluices. As early as the middle of September the sun becomes so low that the air is chilly, and in a few days ice forms, so that further working of the ground must be abandoned until the following year. It must be remembered, however, that although one cannot depend upon much more than two months in which to work the ground, yet, from about the middle of June until the first of August, it is daylight, and the sun shines almost continually. Thus, what is lost in the length of the season is, in a measure, made up in the length of the day; and, if a man can stand the severe physical strain he must undergo, he can put many more hours in here than in placer mining camps in other parts of the country; and if his claim proves sufficiently rich to enable him I ' ; ) h V to ALASKA. to pay for hired help, darkness never interferes with work, for by running two or three shifts each day, he can work his mine, and have daylight to do it in, nearly the entire season. The complaint has always been made by miners, in the Yukon, and by those who know of the difficulties that beset prospectors in that country, that several months in the year are lost, and when the season closes nothing can be done but while away the time in visiting neighbors, making trips to the native settle- ments, or in hunting. But the happy thought came to some one to .spend some of the time in summer prospecting and finding favorable locations; and in the winter to mak" fires upon the surface, thus thawing the ground until bedrock was reached, then to drift and tunnel, lifting the dirt to the .surface, and piling it up so that when spring came, and water was to be had, he could wash his dirt and make it profitable. The last .season closed with a determination on the part of many to carry out this method; a new impetus was given because .several miners who had tried the plan the year previous found that the work thus done in the winter was not a useless expenditure of time and labor. The largest nugget ever found on the Yukon was taken out by one Conrad Dahl, and was found iti Franklyn gulch on March Inch Tiiick iV; iNciiKs Thick. !-iI/.K AND SHAl'K. 26, 1894. It weighed exactly thirty ounces l)efore, and twenty- nine and forty-five one hundredth ounces after being melted at im.' TlllC CA.NVON, YlKON KlVKK. THE YUKON GOLD FII-LDS. 6i the mint in San Francisco. Dahl had prospected in the vicinity the snmmer before, and in the winter thawed the sro"'"! hy burning wood on top, and continued this process until he reached bedrock, hauled the dirt out, and washed it afterwards. The nugget brought four hundred and ninety-one dollars and forty- ti /e cents. The next few years will probably determine whether there are any extensive deposits of gold quartz in the interior of Alaska. Most of the men who have gone into the interior have been men of very limited means, and the expense of carrying supplies in from the coast has been so great that their means was taxed to the utmo : to land at the scene of their labors with food sufficient to last them a single season. It is thus seen that unless a " grub stake," at least, is made before winter sets in, they must go hungry or return to civilization. On this account they have not spent much time looking for cjuartz. Within the past year companies have been formed and an effort made to test the quaitz-bearing capacity of this country, with a very reasonable prospect that rich and valuable ledges will be found. It is fair to suppose when upon nearly every stream and creek gold is found in greater or less quantities, that somewhere in the mountains, whatever may be the climatic or other conditions that dips, 've the ledges and turn the gold loose upon the broad level of the low lands, there must be rich gold quartz. There a\' instances, and not a few, where men in pros- pecting or working placer mines, have come across boulders or rocks containing gold, but, for the reasons stated above, they were not able to expend the labor necessary to follow up the "float." If the indications of the placer fields mean anything, they suggest that the interior of Alaska is, in a very few years, des- tined to become a great center of quartz mining. Those who have not had personal experience in placer mining cannot realize the fascination which is always with one engaged in this occupation. It is a healthful, hopeful, rugged and inde- pendent life. The placer miner goes alone into the mountain fastnesses with pick, t-hovel and pan, far away from every scene of civilization. He feels a pride in picking out the yellow frag- ments, which he has separated from the dirt by dextrous dipping, gradually letting the gravel run out with the water, while the yellow deposits settles around the edge and gravitates to the 63 ALASKA. lir bottom of the pan. Hefore vent'iring upon the life, he is naturally overcome with dread of .'Reparation from home and friend.s. He realizes that he is to he deprived of the pleasures of society; per- haps he is leavinjf a loving wife and children behind, but when once in the field these recollections crowd him on to new life and spur him to renewed efTorts. And when, perhaps, he has secured his treasure and returns to find that he has not been forgotten, life seems to open uj) through a vista of years a new and happy existence. In no place on eartli can you find .such loyalty to friends, such honor among men, as in the camp of the miner. They are the architects of their own laws, and executioners as well. Their lives develop all the characteristics that go to make up a strong nature, and the dangers with which they come in contact, .school them to bear their burdens calmly and to meet peril, or death if need be, with fortitude. m 1 u rally . He ; per- t when fe and ecu red gotten, happy CHAPTER VIII. LAND ANJ) SKA ANIMALS. ..is'.'y' ^''^'^^^ /\LASKA, in a peculiar sense, is the home of fur-bearing animals. It abounds in " fi.sh, flesh and fowl." The bays and inlets teem with a(|uatic birds and animals, and the land is the home of the bear, wolf deer, cariboo, moose, fox, wolverine and nianj' others widely distri- l)uted. Earlj- in the history of the •;';''[') Russian occupancy of Alaska, the .sea otter .skin trafiic, which for a long time had no competitor, l)egan to find a rival of mag- nitude in the fur seal trade. In 1786, the year succeeding the discovery of the Pribilof group of i.slands, over five hundred thou.sand fur seals were killed by Russian hunters, and the figures have even been placed as high as two millions. Whether the latter figures are exagger- ated or not, it is true, that twenty years from that time, the fur seal had almost entirely disappeared from these islands. More than half of the skins taken on the Pribilof i.slands were thrown into the .sea in an advanced stage of decomposition, because of careless curing, and the waters were so poi.soned as to drive away the seals for several successive seasons. Chine.se merchants trading on the vSiberian frontier, placed a high value upon these skins, and frequently refused to exchange teas with the Ru.ssian traders for any other commodity. When the Russian-American company obtained exclusive control of the Russian possessions in America, the fur .seals were so nearly destroyed that, for a time, the new company's traffic was quite li! i 64 ALASKA. insignificant. Prompt and efficient remedy was at once applied, by prohibiting the killing of .seals for five j'ears, from 1807 to 1S12. At the expiration of that time the .shy animals had returned, sufficiently recuperated to afford a continuous and reliable source of revenue. The art of plucking and dying seal skins was invented by the Chinese. The exact date when this process was adopted by the English is unknown, but it occurred some time during the first half of the nineteenth century, as a regular demand for seal skins can be traced from that time. Shipments, directly to New York and London, were inaugurated about 1850, and these shipments continued at the rate of from twenty thou.sand to sixty thousand skins per annum, until the transfer of the Russian possessions to the United States. When the question of acquiring Russian America was dis- cussed in Congress, no particular stress was laid upon the pros- pective value of the fur seal industry, though it was known to be one of the principal sources of revenue to the Russian-Ameri- can company. During the last decade of Ru.ssian ownership the agents in charge of the Pribilof islands reported each year that the fur seals were increasing in such numbers that the rookeries were crowded beyond their capacity. Each report was accom- panied by urgent requests to be permitted to kill more seals, to make room for the increasing millions. The fact that it was pos- sible to continue the .slaughter, at the rate of one hundred thousand per annum, for twenty years after our purchase, seems to prove that when the United States acquired these valuable islands, the industry was in as prosperous condition as when dis- covered by Pribilof in 1786. The radical restrictions of late years limiting the number of seals to be killed annually to one hundred thousand, were based upon careful observations and estimates; but the indiscriminate slaughter inaugurated within the past few years, by sealing ves- .sels from British Columbia, which encounter the migrating ani- mals on their way to the breeding grounds, and kil'. males and females alike, has fully justified the still more radical restrictions since made. The only hauling or breeding grounds of the fur sea! known in Ala.ska are upon the Islands of St. Paul and St. George. On the Otter i.slands, these animals occasionally haul up, but do not breed. The Pacific and Antarctic oceans liave been fij.. pplied, [807 to Is had IS and Ui scou supF day fined tions then then 1 beet Unci less indi hun fron rec€ exp botl Th« the: mtc tail kill ami clo seg s^rc nal Th dri vei ([U; tw SUi an qn ag Re sh LAND AND SKA ANIMALS. 65 scoured by sealers and emissaries of trading firms, in search of supposed "winter homes" of the fur seal; but at the present day the fact seems to be established, that after leaving their con- fined breeditig places, they scatter over the broad Pacific to loca- tions where extensive elevations of the bottom of the sea enable them to subsist upon fish until the instinct of reproduction calls them again, from all directions, to their connnon rendezvous. The killing of fur seals is done altogether on land, and has been reduced, through long obse' vation and practice, to a science. Under the present lease the company has been restricted to kill less than seven thousand five hundred each year; and the only individuals permitted to do the work are the able-bodied Aleutian hunters, now living on the islands, whose ancestors were brought from the Aleutian islands by the Russian government. They receive forty cents per seal. Life-long practice has made them expert in using their huge clubs and sharp skinning knives, both instruments being manufactured expressly for this purpose. The.se men are proud of their skill as sealers, and will not demean themselves by doing any other kind of work. The labor connected with the killing of seals may be divided into two distinct jirocesses; the .separation of the seals of a cer- tain age and size from the main body and their removal to the killing ground; and the final process, of making another .sorting among the select, and killing and skinning them. A damp, cloudy day is especially desirable for both driving and killing. The young male seals, to the age of four years, invariablj' segregate themselves, in the rear of the so-called rookeries — or groups of families — that line the sea shore; and the experienced native crawls in between the families and tlie.se "bachelors." This is accomplished without difficulty, and the animals are driven inland, in droves of from one to three thousand each, very .slowly, lest the animals become overheated and injure the ({ualit^' of their skins. When the .slaughter ground is reached, twenty or thirty .seals are .separated from their fellows, in quick succession, surrounded by their executioners armed with clubs, and the killing begins. The experienced eye of the Aleut ((uickly discovers if the seal is either under or above the specified age or .size, and if such a one be found, he is dismissed, with a gentle tap on the nose, and allowed to make his way to the shore and escape. 5 66 ALASKA, The men with clubs proceed from one group to another, striking the seals violently on the nose to stun them. Others immediately follow with long, sharp knives, and stab each stunned seal to the heart, to insure immediate death. Then the skinners come and, with astonishing rapidity, divest the carcasses of their rich and valuable covering, leaving, however, the head and flippers intact. Carts, drawn by mules, follow the skinners, and into these the pelts are thrown to be carried away to the salt houses, and salted down for the time being, like fish in barrels. Later, after pressure is applied, they are rolled in bundles of two each, with the fur inside, securely strapped, and are theti ready for shipment. The wives and daughters of the sealers linger "" :i^fsE;; around the bloody field and reap a rich harvest of luscious blub- ber, carrying it away on their heads and shoulders, the oil drip- ping down over their faces and garments. The sea otter seems to exist chiefly on a line parallel with the Japanese current, from the coast of Japan along the Kurile islands to the coast of Kamchatka, and thence westward along the Aleutian chain, the southward .'.ide of the Alaska peninsula, the estuaries of Cook inlet and Prince William sound, thence eastward ai:d southward along the Alaska coast, the Alexander archipelago, British Columbia, Washington and Oregon. But it is becoming scarcer each year, owing to the recklessness with which it has been hunted and killed. Three distinct times, dur- ing the existence of the Russian-American company, their agents otlier, )thers unned inners f their (I and s, and le salt )arrel.s. of two ready linger LAND ANM) SIvA ANIMALS «; ill the Kurilc islands liave reported tlie sea otter extinct, l)iit each time it has appeared aj^ain, after a few years respite from hnntinJ,^ They change from one feedinj; ground to anotlier. At the present date, about the Kurile islands and Kamchatka, few are killed ajnnially, and Attn island and several smaller islands, which formerly furnished many hundred sea otter skins every year, now produce less than a dozen skins in the same time. The outlying reefs of Atka, also, once furnished an abun- dant supply of these skins, hut are now entirely deserted. From the Island of Unimak eastward, however, sea otter has become more plentiful, and within a radius of fifty miles of the island, about one thousand are taken annually. Hut the hunting is carried on recklessly by whites and natives alike, with firearms, in direct violation of the law. They are still found in the waters of the Kadiak archipelago, as well as in the southern portion of Cook inlet. The land otter is one of the mo.st widely distril)Uted fur-bearing animals in Alaska, unless we except the fox. Its skin is highly valued, and is now utilized in the manufacture of an imitation seal skin. The land otter is found on the whole coast of Alaska, from the southern boundary to Norton sound. Within the Arctic circle it is confined to the upper portions of the rivers emptying into Kotzebue sound and the Arctic ocean; and it is also found along the whole course of the Yukon, and, as far as known, in nearly all parts of the AIa.ska per.insula, the Kadiak archipelago, and the coast from Mt. vSt. Klias to the southern boundary. There has been a great decline, both in the supply and demand for beaver, during the last fifty years. Once it was the most important among the fur-bearing animals of continental Alaska. This animal has frequently suffered from the excessive and pro- longed cold of the Arctic winter, in the interior country north of Cook inlet and the Yukon. The ice in the river and lakes has formed so rapidly, and to such a thickness at tim':'s, that the animals found it impossible to keep open the approaches to their dwellings under water, and died of starvation before spring. Hundreds of putrifying carcasses have been found by natives in the beaver lodges. Old beaver dams scattered over the conti- nental portion of AIa.ska testify to the former abundance of the animal. Though now huridreds are taken where formerly thou- sands were captured, and notwith.standing the demand has les- sened, the supply has not increased. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) L<>/ A f/j 1.0 I.I 1.25 112.8 1132 M M 1= U nil 1.6 145 1^ 1^ V] V] 7: >^ / 6^ hi 68 At ASKA. ;■ 'f When the Hudson's Bay Company were lords of the entire Northwest American continent, the skins of these animals repre- .sented the value of an English shilling, and were used and accepted as common currency. The present price of a bea\er skin of average size, in Alaska, is from six to twelve dollars. The Indians of the interior and a few of the Eskimo tribes look upon the flesh of the beaver as a great delicacy. It is a dish which they always set before honored guests, and is also much used in festivities. The long incisors of the beaver are made into chi.sels, small adzes and other tools, for the working of wood and bone. The brown bear, a huge, shaggy animal, is found in nearly every section of the territory. The northern limit of its habitat is about sixty-.seven degrees north latitude. It prefers an open, swampy country to the timber. The brown bear is an expert fisher, and during the salmon season it frequents all the rivers, and their tributaries, emptying into Bering sea and the North Pacific. At the end of the annual salmon run, it retreats to the tundra, where berries and small game are plentiful This ani- mal has been called the road-maker of Alaska, for not only are swampy plains, leading to the easiest fording places of streams and rivers, intersected by his paths, but the hills and ridges of mountains are also marked by his footsteps. The largest speci- mens are found at Cook inlet. On its west side they can be seen in herds of twenty five or thirty. From the fact that their skins are not very valuable, and also that they are of a fierce disposi- tion, they are little hunted. Before attempting to kill one the native hunter invariably addresses a few complimcntarj' remarks .to his intended victim. The Thlinkits have a tradition, told them by the .shamans, that the brown bear is a man who has assumed the shape of an animal. The tradition relates that this .secret of nature first became known through the daughter of a chief. The girl went into the woods to gather berries, and incautiously spoke in terms of ridicule of a bear, whose traces she observed in her path. In punishment for her levity, she was decoyed into the bear's lair and there compelled to marry him and assume the form of a bear herself. After her husband and her ursine child had been killed by her Thlinkit brethren, .she returned to her home in her former shape and related her adventures. In deference to this generally received superstition, when the natives nni rcross bear tracks in LAND AND SEA ANIMALS. 69 the woods, they immediately say the most charming and compli- mentary things of bears in general, and their visitor in particidar. The black bear generally confines himself to timber and moun- tain regions. It exists on a few islands in Prince William sound, and on Kadiak island, and is found on rivers emptying into the Arctic, and is plentiful southward to the valley of the Yukon. The skins command high prices, and are increasing in value yearly. The animals are shy, and great skill and patience are required to hunt them. Like the brown bear, they are expert fishers, wading into the streams and, as a salmon comes along, they strike with dextrous paw and land their fish on the bank, where it furnishes a toothsome feast. Unlike the brown bear, however, the ul ives do not fear them in the lea.st. The glossiest and largest of black bear skins come from the St. EHas Alpine range and Prince William .sound, but the black bear never attains the size of his brown relative. The red fox is found in every section of Alaska. In fact, this animal seems omnipresent. It varies in size and in the (juality of its fur from a .specimen as large as the high-priced Siberian fire fox, to the small, yellow-tinged creature that rambles fur- tively over the rocky islands of the Aleutian chain. Like a poor relation, he mingles persistently with his aristocratic cousins, the black and silver foxes, always managing, in cour.se of time, to deteriorate the blood and tarnish the coat of his richer rela- tive. His diet is heterogenous, fish, flesh and fowl being equally .sati.sfactory to his taste ; nor does he disdain shellfish, mus.sels, or the eggs of aquatic birds. He is rarely hunted or trapped by the natives, from the fact that his fur is cheap, and they never eat his flesh, except when driven to it from famine. The king of the vulpine family is the black or silver fox. In the mountain fastnesses of the interior, and on the headwaters of the large rivers, he is found in his prime. He is of large size, with long, .soft, silky fur, varying in color from the silver tint to the deep jet black, the latter being the most rare and highly prized. They are found along the boundaries between Alaska and British Columbia, in the country of the Chilkats, the Takus, the upper Copper river, upper Yukon, Tanana and Kuskoqnim rivers. In the last named regions, skins may be bought from ten to fifteen dollars each, but in Southeast Alaska, where com petition is strong, forty and fifty dollars each is frequently paid for them. Black foxes, of an inferior quality, are found on the 70 ALASKA. sea coast, en the shores of Norton souna, ii the interior of Kotzebue sound, along the Yukon, and on the Colville river. They are quite plentiful on Kadiak island and most of the Aleu- tian islands ; but they have been transported by man's agency to many of these points. Along the southwestern coast there are many islands, removed from the shore a few miles, uninhabited and never visited by natives. In a number of instances white men have gathered a few pairs of blue, black and silver foxes, when young, from the natives, and taken them to the.se islands and turned them adrift. They arrange with the natives to carry food to them at stated periods, and they become, in a measure, tame. They increa.se very rapidly, and in three or four years become a source of profit- able industry for the projectors of the enterprise. On the seal islands the propagation of the blue fox has been carried on for some years, only a certain number being killed each year. The blue fox was first discovered on the Aleutian islands in 1741. It has been protected against intermixture with other and inferior foxes, aiid the .skins are of the finest quality and command a high price in the market. The cross fox partakes of the distingui.'^hing qualities of both the red and black, and is evidently the result of unrestricted intermixture, the connecting link between the plebian and the patrician. The skin of the cross fox is valued but little more than the red, from two to three dollars being paid for the best. Almost the only high-priced fur found in the Yukon basin is the silver fox, and it forms a most important element in the trade of that region. The white fox is found along the continental coast of Alaska, from the mouth of the Kuskoquim river northward to Point Bar- row. Its fur is snowy white, soft and long, but is not durable ; hence it does not command a high price in the market. The white fox is fearless, and will enter villages and dwellings in search of food, or out of mere curiosity. It will eat anything to satisfy hunger, and in the depth of winter the natives find it un- safe to leave any article of clothing, dog harness or boat material where the.se thieving little animals can find them. Mink are plentiful on the coast, but not on the islands, except- ing those of Prince William sound. They are also abundant on the Yukon and many other rivers. The spell of fashion has LAND AND vSEA ANIMALS. 71 made this skin of but little value. But within the past two j-ears it has become more popular, and in a few years it may be as fashionable as when, a score or more years ago, it was the pride of every woman to possess a cape made from the fur of these pretty animals. The polar bear is found only on the Arctic coast where there are large bodies of ice. With the moving ice fields, he enters, and leaves the waters of Bering sea. From fifty to one hundred of these animals are killed yearly, principally by the natives. It sometimes happens, when a whale that has been struck by a har- poon and not killed, in time dies and is washed ashore, the polar bears will come from all directions, drawn by the scent of the carcass, and feed on the blubber. Natives then come upon them with their crude weapons and slay them in large numbers. The lynx is found in the wooded mountains, and wolves, both grey and white, are plentiful, but rarely killed. Muskrats abound all over Alaska, and rabbits and marmots are killed for their fie.sh ; the natives use the skins of the former for clothing. Especially is this true in the Arctic region, as the reindeer, the animal that formerly supplied them with skins for clothing, are fast disappearing. Wolverines are plentiful on the upper Yukon and the lake sections. The skins are rarely exported, as a ready market is found among the inhabitants of the coast region of the Yukon and Ku.skoquim, who prefer this shaggy, piebald fur to any other trimming for their wearing apparel. This skin is very highly prized among the Eskimo, as it serves as an excellent protection for their faces against the severe blasts, when sewed around their hoods. Deer are very abundant, especially in Southeast Alaska, where, in winter, they are recklessly slaughtered for their hides, when driven to the coast by long contiiuied snow. So reckless has this slaughter become that there is great danger of their being exterminated, unless Congress passes a law prohibiting the exportation of deer hides from the territory for a number of years. Deer form a large supply of food for the natives of Southeast Alaska; and the wanton manner in which they are killed bids fair to eliminate a food product of vast importance. They are hunted, in the rutting season, by a call made from a blade of grass placed between two strips of wood, which produces a very 72 ALASKA. I clever imitation of the cry of the deer. This call leads them to the ambushed hunter; and so deceptive is it that it is not unusual to get a second shot should the first fail. The wolves play great havoc with the deer; and it is remarkable that they exist in such numbers among so many ruthless enemies. Moose, cariboo and deer are found in the upper Yukon coun- try, and especially on the White river moose are reported by the natives to be plentiful, and of large size. The deer of the Arctic and sub- Arctic regions have been con- founded with the reindeer of other localities. While they cer- tainly belong to the same family they are what is called the barren ground cariboo, which differs from the upland cariboo and domesticated reindeer in being smaller in body and horns. The mountain sheep and goat are found along the highest mountains of the coast and in the interior, in droves of twenty or more. They seem to prefer the highest altitudes and most precipitous steeps. Their wool is long and fine, and when nicely cleansed and tanned makes beautiful rugs. The horns of the sheep are made into bowls and ladles by the natives; and many rare and beautiful pieces worked up in this way find ready pur- chasers in tourists. Bald and gray eagles are numerous throughout Southeast Alaska, and are also found, to some extent, in the interior wher- ever there is large timber. The natives kill them in large num- bers and pluck the feathers, leaving nothing but the down. When cleansed the .skins are sewn together, about thirty of them being required to make a robe, which is, at once, rich and beau- tiful. Humming birds, in large numbers, having the delicate plum- age of those found in warmer climates, flit from bush to bush in Southeast Alaska. Native boys tie small pieces of red flannel on a limb, and cover them thinkly with pitch. The bright color attracts the tiny birds, who alight on the flannel. Their little feet adhere so tenaciously to the pitch that they cannot extricate themselves, so they become an easy prey to the youngsters who trap them, only to worry them to death with savage cruelty. In all the waters of Alaska, whether in the southeastern coun- try, the nterior, or Arctic regions, ducks and geese in every variety are found in vast numbers Alaska appears to be especi- ally adapted as a natural breeding ground, The smaller varieties the the imi lar vai Be fle( sta th( rej Al aci an en ex se: ba m< hi th in se or iz di of in tl: n( \v LAND AND SKA ANIMAI.S. 73 of land and timber birds are as numerous as the water fowl, and the graceful swan are found in large numbers in many parts of the territory. In Arctic Alaska the disappearance of the snow and ice is immediately followed by the arrival of ])irds from the south in large numbers, and, in a few weeks, the Eskimo revel in the variety and number of eggs found among the grass and tundra. Besides the wholesale robbing of nests for eggs the young fledglings are eaten by the Eskimos with a keen relish. Their stay is brief, however, for none, save the most hardly of the Arctic birds, remain to pass the long months of winter in this region. It may be interesting, while noting some of the resources of Alaska, to mention some of its exports since the United States acquired possession; to demonstrate the wisdom of the purchase and show that the vast and varied resources of our great north- ern possession are worthy of more than a passing word. In t' is connection, also, it may be interesting to refer to executive document number thirty-six, of the House of Repre- sentatives, .second .session. Forty-first Congress, 1869, which is based upon the report of a special agent of the Treasury Depart- ment. It says, that at six per cent, interest on the .seven million two hundred thousand dollars paid for the territory, together with the expense of maintaining the government there, would amount in twenty- five years to the .sum of fortj'-four million dollars. And that, with the most liberal estimate of income from the fur seal islands, and from customs duties, an amount not to ej.ceed one hundred and ten thousand dollars per annum conld be real- ized. And from no other source but a most extraordinary con- dition of circumstances, such as the discovery of large deposits of mineral, could any material increa.se in revenue be looked for. The agent's estimate of the revenue was as erroneous in the matter of the fur seal islands as in other directions. For from this source alone there has been paid into the national treasury nearly nine million dollars. The following table, carefully compiled from official records, will show how far the ' ' extraordinary circumstances ' ' have con- spired to make the purchase of Alaska not only a shrewd piece 74 ALASKA. of diplomatic sagacity, but that vSeward's "ice box" has proven a most profita])le in\estment: I.'urK - - #5.^,000.00000 Canned salmon -- io.ooo.cxx) 0(3 Whalebone io.ooo.ckx. 00 Gold and silver 6,coo,ooo 00 Whale oil 3.000,(00 00 Codfish — - — - 1.600,000 00 Saltedsalmon 800,000 (w Ivory '^•°^.°° Total - - - -fS4,56o,ooo 00 CHAPTKR IX. TIIK TOURIST KorTK. 'pHE tourist route to Alaska extends from Seattle to Sitka, atid lies over a course which, for nearly twelve hundred miles, is almost entirely through narrow channels bordered by high mountains that completely jjrcvent the sea from becoming rough. If an occasional glimpse of the waters of the North Pacific ocean were not obtained, when passing from the shelter of one island behind the precipitous shores of another, one would never realize that he was enjoying all the pleasures of a sea voyage, with but few of the discomforts. The Pacific Coa.st Steamship Company of San Francisco, ex- tended its route northward to this country some ten years ago. And upwards of five thousand tourists, each year since, have seen an endless panorama of scenery unfolded to their view throughout the entire distance. The vessels are large, comfortable and convenient, and the appointments throughout, are especiall)' adapted for the sort of trip made ; and every facility is afforded for complete enjoy- ment, and every opportunity given to see and learn all there is to discover, on this greatest of tourists' routes A semi-nionthlj' mail is carried by the Pacific Coast Steam- ship Company to the different points on this route, and besides the steamers thus employed, the palatial steamer "Queen," three thousand tons burden, having accommodations for two hundred and fifty first-class passengers, makes semi-monthly trips during June, July and August. There is no time in the year, however, when communication to all points on this route is not made regularly twice each month, but during December, January and February a single steamer only is necessary to take care of the traffic. While the universal verdict of those who are so fortunate as to be able to take a trip to Alaska is that it is one round of charm- I I . ''If i 1 1 n 7« ALASKA. ing surprises, and the scenery su;.erior to that found in an\' otlicr part of the civilized world, the great secret of the popularity of the Alaskan trip is the courteous and attentive treatment received frojn the employes. The masters have all been on this route for many years, and they never forget, for an instant, to afford the passengers e\ery opportunity to see and enjoy to the fullest extent all sights and pleasures possible. The most favorable time for making the trip is from the first of June until the last of August ; yet a month earlier or later presents many opportunities for enjoyment. The long periods of twilight which prevail in this latitude, in the spring and fall months, strikes one as strange, and a better view is often afforded in the subdued light of " early morn and dewy eve." The dry subject of enumeration of the articles needed on this trip may be abbreviated by the simple suggestion that one should carry such articles as are usually needed on a journey of two or three weeks, being careful to have clothing that is warm and suitable for an unusu 'ly rainy country. Seattle, which bears the illustrious title of the (Jueen City of the Northwest, is situated upon an indentation of Puget sound, forming a perfect harbor, almost circular in shape, and named Elliott bay. It is a substantial, well-built city, having a population of more than sixty thousand, and it presents in every way, the air and activity of a live, bustling and enterprising city. Although founded 'way back in the fifties, the real growth of Seattle dates from 1889, when the entire business portion of the city was laid in ashes, and almost every vestige of the early uncouth, ill-built town was swept away. The wooden buildings and shacks that lined the biisiness streets have been replaced by modern brick and stone blocks, elegant in construction and imposing in appearance. The city is modern in every respect. It has a magnificent system of water works and sewers, is well lighted and has good streets, over which there is a complete network of street railways reaching to the different suburban towns, and to the many beautiful parks and lakeside resorts, for which the city is justlj^ noted and which are the admiration of the tourist. Lake Washington, the pride and delight of Seattleites, is a beautiful sheet of water, lying east of the city, about twenty-five miles long, and averaging three in width. Its shores are dotted r r n n B > a THE TOURIST ROUTE. 77 with summer residences, and its bosom bears numberless pleas- ure craft of varied form and design, while many steamers ply the lake for commercial purposes. The lake is reached by four I'ties of street railways, two cable and two electric. Adjoining Lake Washington, and but a short distance north, is Lake Union, a smaller but fine lake, surrounded by pleasant homes ; and still another beautiful sheet of water is Green lake, northeast of the city. All of these lakes contain abundance of trout and other fish. Sixty miles away, to the .south, snow-covered Mt. Rainier raises its lofty head, standing hoary and magnificent, it over- looks the great inland sea called Puget Sound, and the many cities and villages that thrive upon its shores. Among the numerous parks within easj' distance of Seattle are Ravenna, Woodland, Madrona, Leschi, Madison Street and Kinnear, beautiful natural parks to which art has leant com- pkting touches. The city has excellent schools, and the differ- ent religious denominations a.e well represented, there being fifty-six places of worship in the city. There are also two opera houses; the Seattle Theatre is one of the finest on the Pacific coast. The city is undoubtedly the commercial metropolis of the northwest. It is the entrepot for an immense .stretch of country rich in lumber, coal and other natural resources; the wonderful shipment of lumber being the most important industr3\ although the coal business is large and steadilj' growing. Its citizens are enterprising, and the unanimity with which all labor for the common advancement of the city's interest has often been com- mented upon with praise. Tacoma, called by its citizens the "City of Destiny," is situ- ated on Commencement Bay thirty miles south of Seattle, and is a point often vii^ited by tourists en route to Ala.ska. Tacoma is an enteri'rising city of some forty-five thousand people, and has had a phenomenal growth. It is the second city in .size and importance in the State and is modern in all respects, having many busines'^ enterpises, manufactures, electric and cable rail- ways, schools, churches, etc. South of the city about thirty miles distant, ri.se^i Mt. Rainier, but in Tacoma the name " Rainier " is never heard, except from a stranger or perhaps a Seattle man. Here it is lovingly referred to as " Mt. Tacoma," and the mountain with the dual name has been for years the .source of much good natured badinage between the two rival cities of Puget Sound, as well as a source of amusement and 78 ALASKA. sometimes of perplexity to those not acquainted with the con- tention over the name of the grand old sentinel which overlooks the great inland sea. A journey of forty miles on the waters of Puget Sound brings the vessel to its first stop on the route — at Port Townsend — having a population of thirty-five hundred peojile. It is most picturesquely located, having a beautiful harbor with water of sufficient width and depth to permit the largest ocean vessels to sail up to its wharves. The business portion of the town lies principally along the water front and the residences occupying a level plateau fifty feet or so above, affording a charming view of the Sound for many miles. On a commanding spot is a beautiful stone customs building just completed by the government at a cost of two hundred thousand dollars, and a half mile further to the west stands a strikingly handsome court house. This is the last port of entry in United States territory until Alaska is reached, and all vessels clear here before starting on their long voyage to the north. At present the only communication with the Puget Sound cities is by several lines of steamers each day, but there is good prospect of the railroad now running but a score or so miles to the south being extended so as to afford direct railroad communication with Olympia and the east. The Alaska boat usually takes on passengers in greater or less numbers at this port, discharging also freight and passen- gers for San Francisco, on its return voyage. A delightful ride of three hours across the Strait of Juan de Fuca, where sometimes a little motion of the vessel is felt should wind blow from the ocean, seventy-five miles to the west, brings us to Victoria, where a wait of an hour or so affords opportunity for those who are desirous of doing so, to step on English soil and admire the handsome buildings, neat gardens and grass plats, and observe the manners of acomnninity whose every appearance stamps them as wholly and es.sentially linglish. Just across the little strip of water, to the north, the staff bearing aloft the British flag can be seen, and under its shadow small squads of marines are distinguished going through a brief guard maneuvre, while an occasional blast from a bugle echoes a call across the water from the English naval station of the north Pacific at Ivs H > ti( tv A N til of A cc N A 111 is tl tc w b( V r( fl u ti w iji S T ti w b ii t< S tl c SI y a. THE TOURIST ROUTE. 79 tion of the ship are felt for three clays, while the six huudred and twenty-five miles before reaching the first i^topping place in Alaska, twenty miles across the boundary, are traveled. It is not unusual, however, for the steamer to put in at Nanairao, a town about sixty-five miles north of Victoria, on the east side of Vancouver island, for coal. Extensive deposits of a superior qualitj- of bituminous coal are here located, large quantities of which are shipped to vSan Francisco and Alaska. About two thousand men are employed in these mines, and the coal is sold at three dollars per ton. Three miles north of Nanaimo, Departure Bay is also frequently visited for coal by Alaskan steamers. Vancouver island is about three hundred miles long by about fifty wide, and is the largest of the many islands on the coast of the North Pacific. It is densely wooded throughout, and its sides in many places are high and precipi- tous. The dense growth of timber and underbrush is inter- spersed with many little streams of water which, flowing down- ward, together with the deep indentations extending inland, lend beauty and variety to the scene. One hundred miles through the Gulf of Georgia, between Vancouver and Valdez islands, the narrow pa.ss — Seymour Nar- rows — is reached. It has a tremendous current, and at ebb and flood tide is a veritable maelstrom, with whose swift flowing waters the most powerful nmchinery is unable to cope. At low tide, a shattered series of rocky ledges are seen, with torrents of water rushing between and over them, and the whirling cauldron is enough to strike terror to the heart of the most daring navi- gator. The passage is always made when the tide is nearly full. The captain of an Alaskan steamer, on one occasion, lost con- trol of his vessel here. It reeled and staggered as the mad waters lashed against its sides, and sought to drag it into the boiling sea. It swept around in the torrent, but finally drifted into less turbulent waters and passed through without encoun- tering any damage. The United States steamer Saranac was wrecked here in 1S75. She was caught in the rush of waters, but succeeded in reaching the shore of Vancouver island, although after her oiTicers and crew had safely landed, she was drawn into the whirlpool and sank out of sight. The United States steamer Wachuset, seven years later, had an exciting experience in these waters, but fin- ally stemmed the current and passed out, after having a portion 1 1; Ho ALASKA. of her keel swept off by the fierce current. Matij- smaller vessels were partially or wholly wrecked before the dangers of these narrows became known. Johnstone strait for fifty-five miles, and Broughton strait for fifteen miles — immediately to the north — both pass between land more or less abrupt, and the picturesque scenery encoun- tered before Seymour Narrows is reached, is again presented. Johnstone strait opens into Queen Charlotte Sound, which for fifty miles presents an expanse of water fifteen miles or so acro.ss, until it in turn meets the waters of Hecate strait. The broad expanse of the ocean is seen only while the ship is speeding over the thirty-five miles intervening, before she enters the land- locked shores of Fitz-Hugh Sound. From here to the end of the inland channel at Sitka, with the exception of fifteen miles at Milbank Sound, where in a south wind, and again at Dixon En- traiice, the water may become rough for an hour or so, to add, as it were, a little spice to the smooth sailing which might other- wise become monotonous. Beginning here, the route is one continuous chain of labyrin- thian passages, winding hither and thither through narrow de- files, with mountains rising manj' hundred feet on both sides, covered from base to peak with a den.se coat of fir, whose outline is mirrored in the water below. "The Mystic Maze" would be an appropriate name to apply to this enchanted route. Oftimes the prow of the ship is headed for what appears to be a moun- tainous barricade, but a sudden turn reveals a continuation of the pathway, and an outlet to endless charming nooks and glassy waters. The first glimpse of Ala.ska after emerging from Grenville channel, into the waters of Chatham sound which separates British, from American territory, is Tongas i.sland, the home of a tribe of natives scarcely numbering three score, the remnant of a once numerous tribe. They occupy the site of old Fort Ton- gas which, during the first eight years after the acquisition, was the headquarters of a company of United States troops. No opportunity is afforded to examine the country in this vicinity save from the deck of the vessel. Thirty -five miles farther on Mary Island is sighted. The steamer blows a .shrill whistle, the speed of the engine is slackened, and immediately, the stars and stripes are hoisted upon the staff of the Custom House. As soon as the anchor is lowered, the captain goes ashore to execute ' The Tukadwell I;arrisonecl by two companies of I'liitcd vStatcs troops. The arranj^^einent of the plat, with l)arracks and officers' (|uar- ters standing on either side of the square, gives evidence to-day of the time it was occupied by these representatives of the Amer- ican army. Troops were withdrawn in 1.S70, but the garrison was again occupied by sokliers from 1875 to 1877, when all the troops were permanently withdrawn from Alaska. It is usual for steamers going north to remain at Wrangel long enough to reach the entrance to Wrangel Narrows, twenty-five miles north at high tide. This is, indeed, one of the most inter- esting portions of the whole trip. The passage through the Narrows co' ers a distance of twenty-five miles. At half tide, a hundred ton vessel drawing six feet of water could not make the passage on account of ledges of rocks and boulders stretclied across the whole passage. liard-a-port! Starboard! Steady! are constantly heard from the captain as the ocean steamer is turned close around the buoys, that locate the shallow water and hidden reefs. While danger need not be apprehended in case of accident in this passage, for the waters do not surge through with the force that causes Seymour Narrows to be dreaded, yet the alertness of the ofhcers, and the caution exercised in piloting the steamer, arrest the attention of the passengers, and give rise to expressions of admiration for the skill of the mariners, who have charge of the craft. Upon emerging from the Narrows a glimpse of the first glacier of any note is had. It bears the name of Patterson, and looms six thousand feet upward, while its ser- pentine form is seen winding over the mountain, and is finally eclipsed by the towering magnificence of the Devil's Thumb, pointing h^'avenward at an altitude of nine thousand feet. This, too, is lost to view, as the vessel bears westward to Cape Fanshaw, where the course is straight away for the metropolis of Alaska, seventy miles distant at the head of Gastineau channel. On the right, twelve miles before reaching Juneau, Taku inlet opens into the channel. It is one of the favorite points of inter- est for tourists, and the glaciers winding down through the mountains, are visible for a long distance and pour into the inlet with a front of a mile or more. The Taku river leading into the interior, is the stream Schwatka ascended on his last trip into Alaska, in the spring of 1891, and it is from the head of canoe navigation on this river that a party of British surveyors made explorations during the past winter 84 ALASKA. for the purpose of ascertaining the practicability of constructing a trail into the interior. There is a natural route from this river to the Yukon of but ninety miles to water communication on the inside, but about thirty miles of that distance lies through a low, swampy country, that before it could be used, as a route, would have to be cordu- royed. The town of Juneau is locp.ted at the base of a mountain that rises almost perpendicularly for nearly three thousand feet, form- ing a most picturesque background to this little city. Juneau is an ideal mining camp. Every building in the town, and every inhabitant, bears the aspect of activity and prosperity peculiar to live mining camps. It has but few streets, and they are crooked and narrow. With but few exceptions, the inhabitants have not found time to clear their lots of the stumps or gnarled roots that litter, as well as make a rustic ornament for every door yard. But there are a number of handsome residences and neat business houses; and a system of water works that draws its su])ply from the purest of mountain streams, and an electric light plant which for four months of the year, gives way to the brilliant light of heaven's sun, taking its turn again for four months in the winter, except- ing only a few hours at mid-day. All roads lead to Rome, it is said, and all routes in Alaska lead to Juneau. The Yukon miner comes here to outfit for his long and hazardous trip into the interior; all travelers who come to Alaska, whether for business or pleasure, and even the United States Court, if in session at Sitka, the capital, comes here for nineteen-twentieths of its jurors, without whom it could not transact bu.':iness. Juneau is rightly called the metropolis. Whether she will retain this prestige remains to be .seen. If .so, one of two things must occur. vShe must plane down the sides of her mountains or erect sky-scraping buildings with elevators to accommodate her populace, for nearly every foot of available ground is already occupied. The population of Juneau numbers about two thousand souls; and the enterprise of the people, and volume of business, are shown by the support given to the three newspapers here published. The Mining- Record, the oldest paper published here, is devoted especially to the mining interests of the country. The Searchlight, a metropolitan-appearing journal, in general o » ..J *■■«■ pr loi w] ti{ th tvi gi fr( th th cr in b£ m w C m ol t\ ri g' is tl \\ tl a; fc g e; a e C e h P THE TOURIST ROUTE. ss make-up and contents, is a credit to the city and its enterprising proprietor. The Nczcs, also an excellent publication, is more local in its character, and helps to make a trio of weekly papers which vie with each other in the publication of reliable informa- tion concerning this great territory. As the steamer turns in its course from the metropolis towards the capital, it retraces its way for twelve miles, and on the right, two miles from Juneau, passes the works which constitute the great Treadwell mine. Dense columns of smoke are seen issuing from the chlorination works which are here burning that part of the ore which the batteries have not b<=>en able to separate from the gold. Its poisonous vapors that the humid atmosphere has crowded down the mountain sides have bleached the timber gi'ow- ing there almost as white as the ragged and jagged ledges laid bare by the incessant explosions of dynamite that occur in this mine day and night from one year's end to another. At the end of Douglas island the ship's prow is turned north- ward towards Lynn canal; but which arm it ascends, whether Chilkoot or Chilkat inlet, depends upon the nature of the busi- ness calling the vessel thither. If to Chilkoot, a view is aiforded of the country through which the miner starts with his pack over the portage of twenty-eight miles to the headwaters of that great river, the Yukon, and also, upon the left-hand side, the neat and attractive buildings of the Presbyterian mission at Haines. If the steamer has taken the Chilkat inlet, at the head of navi- gation, to the right-hand is the town of Chilkat, who.se location is marked by a cannery, store and a few other buildings. Fur- ther to the left is the route recently located by Mr. Jack Dalton, who has discovered a way into the interior of Alaska, whence the Yukon river may be reached over a country having a gradual ascent and de.scent, with no high mountains to interfere, thus forming a natural route for the construction of a railroad into the great interior. Everybody but the projector and his native employes remains yet in blissful ignorance of the nature of the country passed over. But it is certain that a native in Dalton's employ traveled on foot all the way from the Yukon river to Chilkat, last fall, in fourteen days. This spring Mr. Dalton established a pack tiain over this route, and upwards of twenty horses are now engaged in transporting supplies for^his trading posts in the interior. 86 ALASKA. As the ship turns about to resume its course, Davidson glacier appears on the right. This is the first good view of a glacier yet had, and it looks as if a mighty river winding down from the mountain had suddenly congealed while pouring its torrent into the sea below. Davidson glacier has its head a few miles to the west, and is a spur of the series of glaciers that form the frigid bulwarks of ice in Glacier baj-, whose fronts rise perpendicularly from the water. The Davidson glacier, however, slopes gradu- ally down leaving a moraine covered with low willow and alder trees. A distance of sixty miles to the south is made before the ship's course is changed into Icy strait, and is now among float- ing 'ice, which may be encountered in such quantities as to impede the progress of the ship through the entrance into the bay. The prows of all the vessels are protected with heavy tim- bers, and one experiences the shock caused by the crashing of the vessel into the bergs and floating ice as it pursues its course. When within the bay it is in a sea of floating ice, dodging its way through the heavy "pack" past Willoughby island, until it comes to anchor within two miles of the front of the celebrated Muir glacier. The island just referred to is named after Professor Willoughby, one of the early pioneers of California. As a boy he was in the vanguard of the "forty-niners;" picked up nug- gets as large as walnuts at Suter's mill with Marshall; moved along into Fraser river. Cariboo and Cassiar mining camps; and was among the early placer miners in the camps of Southeast Alaska. He piloted the first vessel into Glacier bay, and was there when Professor Muir made his first investigation of the wonderful river of ice that bears his name. Profes.sor Willoughby is a typical frontiersman. He is said to have made more extensive explorations in Southeast Alaska than any other man, and to have found more good mineral deposits than he knows what to do with. His claims on Admir- alty island are among the most promising quartz locations in the territory, .ind the sale of this property will probably bring him more money than he will be able to spend. My finst visit to Alaska, in the spring of 18S9, was in the interest of newspapers. I was looking for just such a person as Professor Willoughby to furnish me information about the coun- try. His acquaintance supplied me with means for building up a series of letters upon a subject that made them the most profit- Ckkvassu on Tup oi- Mlir Glacikk. L»Roch8, Photo, S«attl«, Wmh. THE TOURIvST ROUTE. 87 able newspaper articles I ever wrote, and which appeared in many of the leading papers of the countrj-, The "Silent City " of Glacier bay helped also to make it more noted, brought thou- sands of dollars to the person who claimed to have photographed a "mirage of an unknown city," in this bay, from the sale of photographs of the same, and caused a vast amount of discussion on the subject of mirages. Many persons pronounced it a "fake," others a good joke, while some looked upon it in the light of a phenomenon that it was reasonable should occur, on account of the peculiar condition of the atmosphere that prevails in this locality. If I thought the story a monstrous and ridiculous fake, grati- tude to the man who furnished me with the sinews from which to weave the interesting tale, would prevent my denouncing it as such; and, if I knew it to be a joke, I would consider it the most interesting, as well as the least harmless, that has ever come under my observation. Two years previous to my arrival at Juneau, Professor Wil- loughby had been exhibiting a negative of a picture which he said he had succeeded in taking of a cit>- which appeared above the face of the glacier in the longest days of each year, and which was brought to his attention by the natives, who called it the silent cit}-. He procured a camera, and in three successive years made the journey in a canoe with natives, and each time was able to make an exposure, but the plate that had been exposed the third year proved upon development to be the only one that contained a picture of the city. It was a weird-looking negative and, con- templating it while the professor told the story with the utmost earnestness and sincerity, one could not but be interested and inclined to believe it to be true. He said that the city always appeared as if suspended in the air, just in front of the Fair- weather range of mountains. The atmosphere was so clear that the peaks many miles to the north were distinctly seen, and every ridge and wallow and curve of the icy crust that envel- oped them could not have been more clearly defined had they been but a stone's throw away. That while asleep in his tent one morning, a native called to him excitedly "to get up;" and upon looking to the north he saw a strange looking object hang- ing over the sides of the mountain, and following the direction of a stream. or glow of light which seemed to radiate from the range squarely down upon the glaciers at the head of the bay. 88 ALASKA. Gradually it became more distinct, and soon assumed the appear- ance of a city of immense proportions, stretching out into the distance until its furthermost limits were lost to view. The style of architecture was new to him. Buildings of massive dimensions extended in solid and unbroken blocks as far as the eye could reach. The solemn walls of cathedrals arose almost to the skies, and his imagination reveled in silvery music, chanted to a chorus of tinkling bells, that was wafted out from the frescoed aisles through the openings of gorgeously painted windows. The entire limits of the city were confined within a halo of light, dense, yet transparent, pouring its soft glow upon roof and wall and window in glorious transformation. To the right and left a range of mountains, covered with the garb of winter, formed the background. The tops of buildings, and the spires of churches, appeared to pierce its ghostly robes, yet not one breath of their chilled presence exiended within the portals of the city. Again, he seemed to hear the bells from the steeples of a hundred churches ming! .g sweet and happy melody; yet, within the whole length and breadth of this boundless city, not one soul could be seen. Not even a shadow darkened the light for an instant. All was silent as the grave, when suddenly the vision began to move away. Its glories and grandeur lured him with a fascination which he could not resist. But, as he walked forward, it seemed to recede with even pace. Gradually, though he quickened his steps to get within the silent portals before it was too late, it was wafted into space and finally lost to view. In the summer of 1889 I accompanied Professor Willoughby to Glacier bay, and spent six weeks in exploring the glaciers and surrounding country. Anxious to see the spot where he claimed to have witnessed this wonderful sight, although, I feel free to say, I did not live in very high expectations of gazing upon the silent city. One day we ascended the side of a mountain to a level space affording a glorious view of the whole bay. He took me to a pile of rocks, laid carefully one upon another, to a height of perhaps five feet. Slowly he commenced to throw off rock after rock until an opening was made in the center, and, insert- ing his arm, he drew out what appeared to be a scroll or book made from several leaves of birch bark, It was badly mildewed, and upon unrolling it a pencil fell to the ground. The half-dozen pages looked bright, however, and contained a record stating ■r'i ■ k di n tc al r< t( a: n t] g tl Si V V I ii t c t c t g g t THE TOURIST ROUTE. 89 that the object of three trips made to this locality, in as many different years, was to secure a photograph of the city. During the six weeks I .spent with Professor Willoughby, the relations between us, in camp and in our travels, were such as to encourage an exchange of confidences on many subjects, and although the subject of the silent city and mirages was often referred to, he never by word or implication gave nie any reason to think that his story was other than a true one. The city, after the lap.se of some time, was finally identified as Bristol, England. In order for it to have appeared in the manner claimed, it must have been reflected a distance of several thousand miles. Words can scarcely describe the awful grandeur of Muir glacier, whether viewed from the deck of a ship standing close to the front, which extends for two miles across and towers in scalloped and jagged .surface two hundred and fifty feet high, or while walking on its top among thousands of .seams and cre- vasses, which descend in yawning chasms to interminable depths. Is it any wonder that, when gazing at this spectacle, one is lost in awe as he sees a solid body of ice winding for many miles through mountain gorges, breaking off in irregular blocks, many of them a hundred feet square, and tumbling into the water below ? Is it any wonder that the crash and thundering echo can be heard for miles ? Is it any wonder that the bottom of this grand inland sea is a hundred fathoms or more deep, when such huge sections of ice, falling from dizzy heights, send the spray nearly to the top of the glacier as they go plowing onward towards the sea ? I have seen a single block of ice measuring at least four hun- dred feet square, with forty feet extending above the water, silently moving down the ^"y. Fresh water ice is said to float with seven-eighths below the surface, so in this instance the berg must have been three hundred and twenty feet thick. Among glaciers, nature is seen in its grandest, most awful and sullen mood. The continual caving leaves the glaciers with lacerated fronts that as.sume the shape of obelisks, pinnacles and turreted roofs of castles, set with a background of blue which, when touched with the rays of the sun, send back the hues of the topaz, diamond and sapphire in sparkling scintillations. How many years shall elapse before the last of the glaciers disappears from the bay can hardly be calculated, but they are 90 ALASKA. slowly receding and will, before many years, become a wonder of the past. There are ten other living glaciers as large as the Muir, besides a number of smaller ones in the bay, and at the extreme northern end is one nearly as large again as the Muir. On the coast two hundred and fifty miles west from Sitka, the great Malispina glacier presents a front of over twenty-five miles to the sea. A few miles further west they almost entirely disap- pear, and are only found in a few localities just back from the coast in the interior. About three o'clock on the morning of May 14th, 1889, as we were approaching Glacier bay, Captain William George, pilot of the steamer "George W. Elder," roused me from a sound .slum- ber, to come out and .see a most startling sight. I dressed hurriedly, and iti a few moments was standing on the upper deck; looking straight ahead, I could .see .snow-clad peaks tower- ing to the skies, seemingly rising from the water's edge. The .sound of six bells had just died away when the sun ro.se above the eastern hori/on, sending a shower of rays acro.ss the water and up against the sides of the Fairweather range, sixty miles away; the highest of which were Crillon 16,000 feet, Fairweather 15,000 feet, Lituya 11,000 feet, and Perouse 15,000 feet. A faint line was visible extending along the ba.se of the mountains, and as our ship was sailing at the rate of eight knots per hour, the captain told me to make the best of my opportunity, for the awe- inspiring monarchs woi;Ul ; oon disappear from view behind the mountains at their feet. Soon I began to realize that they were fast giving way to the turk line ahead which rose higher and higher until we were confronted by a range of mountains three thousand feet or more high, standing directly across our path, and nothing was left of the imposing spectacle which, but a short time before, greeted my eyes. The following lines were written at the time and dedicated to Captain George, for his kindness in aflFording me an opportunity to witness the grandest sight I ever beheld: High up from out the waters, Far-reaching to the sky, Grandly from the mainland. Right glorious greet the eye. I'our sharp-peaked snowy monarchs. Clothed full in white array, Fairweather's three companions stand, To hail the dawn of day. THE TOURIST ROUTK. 91 I-'roiii out the sullen stillness, or night's lilenk, wi/en pall, These nionaichs stand in glory, Right regal uionarfhs all. Their hoary heads uplifted. Majestic to the sky. And at their feet green mountains stand, Like ])igniies wondering nigh. Three thousand feel towards the sky. They seek to look above, Aiul clothed in furry coats of green. Are bathed in tears of love. I'Voni out Fairweather's frigid eyes, Ki.ssed by the sun's .soft rays. Love's pearly drops increasing fall, Through ilays and years, always. And high al)ove, as they look down, The.se regal forms appear To warn and say " no farther come. Vour jiathway leads not here. To waters deep, your sail turn back, Khe in our shrouils of snow, Ve.stments made ready for the .skies. We'll mourn in cloiuls of woe." On through the smooth and mirrored brine. Our ship sails swift and far. But full as swift, aye, swifter yet, Fairweather sinks his star. Behind the green hills neat and wild, These spectres disappear. Nor wait to heed a message .sent. Though words of joy and cheer. Come back, old hoary headed kings! From out the heavens on high ; Come back, and show your snow-gemmed crowns, To our enchanted eye! Why seek ye rest beyond the clouds? Why must ye hasten on ? What, gone so .soon? then fare ye well, Lituya! Perouse! Crillon! ! The day speut in Glacier bay ends only too quickly, but the ship must travel one hundred and fifty miles further before reaching the terminus of the route, at Sitka. Nearly one hun- dred miles of this course is due south, then the ship turns to feel its way for thirty miles in Peril strait. This stretch of water is, 92 ALASKA. as the name implies, a difficult and dangerous passage, and is attempted only in pleasant weather. The water surges and rushes at the rate of six or eight knots an hour, and like Seymour Narrows, is run only at high slack, or between that and high water. Its path is stiewn with rocks and reefs, and its swiftest water points are designated as Upper and Lower rapids. At least two officers of the ship are always on the bridge, for here, as everywhere throughout the long journey through the inland waters, their keen vigilance is never for a moment relaxed. Twenty miles more and the booming of the cannon from the deck of the steamer warns the passengers that another port is reached. Its sullen roar echoes among the hills and announces to the inhabitants that another ".steamer day" is at hand. Another messenger from civilization has knocked at their doors, bringing anxiously looked-for tidings from home and friends to those who, from choice or circumstance, have found an abiding place upon our most remote frontier. Sitka became the capital of Russian-America under the admin- istration of Alexander BaranofF, who served as governor of the Russian colonies from July 27th, 1791, until January nth, 1818, his predece,ssor, the first governor, having served from August 3rd, 1784, until July the 27th, 1791. The .seat of government at that time was at Kadiak, Kadiak island, five hundred miles west of Sitka. The especial point upon which the interest of the tourist cen- tered, in Sitka, was Baranoff castle, built by the governor in 1813. It was situated on the top of a hill and commanded a view of the broad expanse of the ocean and of the beautiful harbor, which was studded with many small islands covered with the freshest of evergreen trees and a profusion of the loveliest and brightest verdure. The channels between these islands admit of the passage of the largest ocean steamers, and on a sunshiny day the view is most charming. The castle, an imposing structure, built of logs of huge dimen- sions, was divided into capacious rooms. On one side was a banquet hall running the whole length of the building, and here, during the occupancy of the Russians, many wild scenes of revelry were enacted. In order to preserve this structure from decay, our government expended Si 1,000 three years ago, but just after the work was completed it took fire through .some mys- terious cause and was burned to the ground. I THE TOURIST ROUTE. 93 Many stories are told, some of them replete with wild romance and crime of early days when Russian barons and beautiful prin- cesses passed days and nights within the castle in joyous living. It is said that Olga Arbuzoff, a niece of Governor Mooraveff, committed suicide by thrusting a dagger into her heart on the fifth day of March, 1826, the very day of her marriage to Count Nicholas Vassileff. The count was old, uglj' and of coarse morals, and the lovely princess very naturally hated him. Fer uncle, however, compelled her to marry him, though she in- sisted that she would take her life if he persisted in his demands. The princess was very much in love with a young midshipman named Demetrius Davidoff, who was j-oung, handsome and an accomplished gentleman, and whom the governor, when he found they were in love with each other, sent away on a six months' It.VRAXOFI' CASri.lC. cruise. In the meantime the nuptials between the princess and the count were hurried to a consummation. The very night of the wedding the young lover returned and went iininediately to the castle. As soon as the princess saw him she uttered a cry, and rushing into his arms, snatched his dagger from its sheath and plunging it into her breast, fell to the floor dead. The horror-stricken youth immediately drove it into his own heart and fell dead by the side of his sweetheart. The following day they were both buried in the same grave. From one of the win- dows in the banquet hall their last resting place was pointed out, 94 ALASKA. marked by a simple Greek cross standing at the head of the mound. The white population of Sitka does not exceed five hundred, including the actual residents, territorial officials, and members of the naval force here stationed. The natives number about nine himdred and occupy a portion of the town known as the "rat: i '" The . I: church with its dome painted blue and chime of bells stanu. at the head of the street. It is a striking, and rather imposing structure, but its most interesting feature is found inside. The altar decorations and the doors separating the inner sanctuary from the body of the church are truly gorgeous. The painting of the Madonna and other biblical figures are superbly set in silver and gold. Manj' of the natives are members of this church, and the ceremonies are of an inter- esting and unusual character, the congregation standing and kneeling, alternately, during the service. About a half mile south the Sitka industrial school is located. It is an institution where native children are taken in youth and taught various trades. It is supported by the Presbyterian Missionary Society, the general government assisting in the expense of maintaining it. One of the most interesting places to the tourist at the Alaskan capital is the Jackson Museum, near the industrial school, con- taining one of the largest collections of Alaska curios in the United States. Many of the articles here deposited, were col- lected by Dr. Sheldon Jackson in his travels throughout the territory. ''The Alaskan " is the oldest paper in the territory, and being published at the capital is much .sought after by people abroad, who wish to keep informed in regard to the progress of the territory. Looking across the bay to the north, Mt. Edgecombe, an extinct volcano, is plainly seen with the mouth of the crater clearly defined at the summit. An excursion to the mountain and into the crater, five hundred feet deep, forms a very inter- esting trip, but can hardly be made during the one day's wait of the steumer. The ascent of Mt. Verstovoi, which form a beau- tiful background to this picturesque town, can be accomplished in two or three hours, and the view obtained from the summit well repays one for the effort. n s H > o s « THE TOURIST ROUTE. 95 From the top of Mt. Verstovoi may be seen the great unknown country stretching on and on to the westward. The tourist never visits it, but as the steamer floats out from the peaceful Sitka harbor ''homeward bound/' the "far off unknown" is seen to fade away in solemn beauty. By and by this region will be opened up to the pleasure seeker, when it will afford a fitting climax to a tour of the grandest scenic route in the world, that which threads the mystic mazes between Puget sound an 1 Sitka. In closing this chapter on the tourist route, there seems to be need of a passing reference to the great scenic route of the Northern Pacific Railroad, which, taken before proceeding to Alaska, or after the pleasures of that journey have been experi- enced, makes the round complete, and one feels that he has seen all there is of the grand, the sublime, and the beautiful in nature, in all its moods. To our mind, Yellowstone park presents the only wonders on this continent that can appropriately be coupled with those of Alaska, and the Grand canyon, the geysers and hot springs of this great government reservation, offer food for thought and enchantment for the eye that language cannot faithfully portray. The Northern Pacific Railroad Company has just issued a complete and artistic publication entitled, " Sketches of Wonderland." It is beautifully and elaborately illustrated, and replete with infor- mation concerning the scenic points of the northwest, charmingly and graphically described. This company have, with their excellent regular service, a tourists' schedule which affords an opportunity of visiting the Minnesota summer resorts, Yellowstone park and the main and branch lines of its road threading through Montana and Wash- ington, thence south through Oregon and California from Seattle, via steamer or rail. Excursion tickets from Chicago and St. Paul to Tacoma and Seattle, and return, are on sale in all railroad offices; present rates for round trip tickets, good for stop-overs at all points in either direction and limited to nine months are $i lo and $90 respectively. These tickets if desired will be made good to return via any other direct line. Alaska steamer excursion tickets are sold from Tacoma or Seattle to Sitka and return, at reduced rates, including meals and berth on the steamer. State-rooms can be secured in ad- vance by application to any railroad or steamship office. H- CHAPTER X. ALASKA INDIANS. Y;^ HENCE came the Alaska native ? Is a question that will probably never be sat- isfactorily determined, as no record or written history furnishes a clew, but the consensus of opinion seems to point to an Asiatic origin. Professor Dall in his re- port on the distribution, origin, etc., of the native races of the northwestern territory, believes the na- tives of Alaska were once inhabitants of the interior of America, and that they were forced to the west and north, by tribes of In- dians from the south. He can, in no way, connect them with the Japanese or the Chinese, either by dress, manner, or language. Mr. L. M. Turner, who spent a number of j-ears among the Aleutian islands and on the east Bering coast as far north as Norton sound, reports to the Smithsonian Institute, that the Innuits or Eskimo, without doubt, populated this country from the coast of Greenland, and that he found no trouble in tracing a relationship, and proof that the migration was from the east to the west. Professor Otis T. Mason, of the same institution, takes the posi- tion that the emigration came from Asia to this continent, and that the Alaska Innuits are, undoubtedly, of Mongolian origin. We also are constrained to take the latter view, and believe they once came across Bering strait. It is an easy matter for the most casual observer, to note the marked points of resemblance between the Japanese, and the Innuit and Indian of Alaska. The same straight, black hair, olive complexion, small stature, almond T ALASKA INDIANS. 97 shaped eye and unusually small hands and feet, are, to our mind, unmistakable evidences of kinship. They are not an inventive people, but are decidedly and emphatically imitative, a trait in the Japanese character always so conspicuous, and their genius seems best illustrated in the nicety of their carving, and their skill in weaving the most deli- cate fabrics. The aborigines of any country are quick to adopt the vices of the white man, but much slower in assuming his virtues. This is not to be wondered at, as usually the whites with whom they first come in contact are not of a class whose virtues are conspicu- ous, and the unsuspecting native has the smooth paths of vice pointed out more often than the steep and rugged road of virtue. The aborigines' love of intoxicants is great, and he will do almost anything to procure them. When the Russians first occupied the country, they taught the native to make quass, a cooling and comparatively harmless drink, concocted of rye meal mixed with water which they placed in a cask until fermented. Latterly the native learned to add sugar, flour, dried apples and a few hops, putting the whole into a cask until cleared by fermentation. A strong intoxicant is the result. Another home brewed intoxicant, called hoochinoo, is made of fermented molasses and flour, and is a vile kind of liquor. When imbibed, it fairly crazes the natives, fittin.p theui for any deeds of violence or viciousness. They are fond of Jamaica ginger, lemon extract, Florida water, cologne, or in fact, anything having fragrance or a "tang."' Totem poles are found in every village along the southeastern coast. There is some difference of opinion as to their real signifi- cance. They are intended, in part, to commemorate deeds of bravery, or some virtue, in the lives of the departed, near whose graves they are reared ; also to indicate the family arms of the persons for whom they are erected, and whose habitations they adorn. Some tribes are represented by the crow or the hawk ; others have the bear, the whale, or the beaver, asjtheir distinctive tribal emblem. These poles are elaborately carved from top to bottom, some reaching the height of fifty feet, and being three or four feet in diameter. The height signifies the importance of the individual. These people have an oral mythology of the most fabulous character, handed down from father to son. Many il 98 ALASKA. of the curious carvings on the totem poles are designed to tell, in story, some event in the history or tribe of the individual. Despite the efforts of missionaries and teachers, and the influ- ence of civilization, witchcraft is still believed in to a greater or less extent. Evil spirits still take possession of the old, the decrepid, and the deformed, sometimes of the young, and these must be exorcised ; it being considered a matter of duty to dis- possess the unfortunate of his tormentors. Death sometimes results from the tortures undergone by those "bewitched." Cremation was formerly practiced throughout the whole coast country of Alaska, but it is fast disappearing now, except where it is followed by tribes removed from missionary influences. It may be here suggested, however, that the energies expended by missionaries and teachers in eradicating this custom, time hon- ored in its antiquity, might have borue better fruits if spent in other directions. The dead are usually placed in boxes, not long enough to permit the whole body to recline at full length, so it is disjointed and placed in a sitting posture, and the box kept above ground. Sometimes the location of a grave is on a high point, where the departed spirit can look out upon his former haunts. Some of the personal effects of the deceased are often placed beside him. The shamans, or doctors are never cremated, but lie in state four days — one day in each corner of the dwelling — then the corpse is conveyed to the dead house, where it is seated in an upright position, with blankets and paraphernalia to add to its comfort in the spirit land. Among the Thlinkits, the name by which most of the natives in Southeast Alaska are known, cremation was formerly the favorite method of disposing of the dead. The bodies of "witches" and slaves were disposed of with great secrecy, but those of chiefs lay in state. The people observed certain rites, then the body was cremated, the totem pole erected to his memory, and his ashes were incased in the base. There is positive evidence that cannibalism was practiced among these people upon the death of chiefs ; the sacrifice of slaves was common, that their spirits might accompany them into the spirit land. It is highly probable that the bodies of these slaves were cooked and eaten. Medicine men have some- times been known to devour portions of corpses, believing that they would acquire con'rol of the spirit and gain influence over d de mi foi gar call Thi unc is t oft« linj T ALASKA INDIANS. 99 demon spirits. As tlie j;iant tree yields to the axe of the wood- man, so are most ofthe.se practices and customs giving way be- fore the advance of civilization. l.VniAN DOCTOR. The Alaska Indians are inveterate gamblers. The favorite game is played with a handful of small sticks of different colors, called by various names, sucli as crab, whale, duck, otter, etc. The player shuffles all the sticks together, then places them under bunches of mos-?. The object is to guess under which pile is the whale or the duck, etc. Simple as it looks, the natives often lose all their possessions at the game. This kind of gamb- ling is much the same as that called "sing-gamble" among I f lOO ALASKA. Paget Sound Indians, the latter of whom accompany the shuffling and hiding of sticks with a weird chant. Thej' are remarkably expert in carving and engraving, as the numerous totem poles, arrowheads, spearheads, and silver and copper ornaments prove. Bullets, spearheads and arrowheads, as well as ornaments of various kinds, are made by the natives of copper, found on White river in the interior country, and not on Copper river, as is generally supposed. Baskets of ingenious design and coloring are made from grasses and roots; and the celebrated Chilkat blanket is made from the wool of the moun- tain sheep. Some of these blankets are really beautiful in design and workmanship, many of them being sold for one hundred dollars. They are woven on rude hand looms, and it usuallj- takes a native woman six .nonths to complete one. The real article is, however, becoming scarce, as most of those now seen contain an admixture of the coarse yarn of commerce. Before the .strong arm of the law stepped in, an injury of one native by another could be satisfied by the payment of some article of value, usually a blanket. Even murder could be atoned for and forgiven, if a sufficient number of blankets were handed over to the murdered man's relatives. The lav>- of "An eye for an eye, and a tooth for a tooth,'" was modified by these people. An innocent person might be sacrificed, and this was considered an equivalent and taken as full sati.sfaction and the murderer was allowed to go free, The canoe of the native is to him a necessity. It is made of wood in Southea.st Ala.ska; in the far north of skins. In the southern portions the wood selected is usually the red and yellow cedar. Many of these canoes have graceful lines, elaborately carved prows and sterns, and are frequently large enough to carry forty or fifty men. Tliey are cut out of the whole tree, the magnificent yellow cedar, which frequentlj^ grows to a great height, and is from seven to ten feet in diameter, furni.shing the best. The sides are carefully modeled, worked and bent, so as to have the required graceful curve, by using hot water, and the canoe, when finished and dried, always retains the shape given to it by the builder. The Chinook jargon, a coml)ination of French and English, invented and used by the Hudson's Bay Company for use in trading with the natives of Oregon, Wa.shington, and the British American possessions, still prevails among the whites and u \\ tc m tl is re w ai tl oi \\ S( A\ tl S( tl tl T^ ALASKA INDIANS, lOI natives in the coast country, and to a limited extent in the in- terior, but it almost entirely disappears after leaving Sitka going west, where the Russian language is spoken mainly among the Aleutian islands. The paint used by the natives to decorate their canoes, totems, and faces, is of two colors only, red and black. It is made of a kind of rock found in the country, which is rubbed over the surface of a coarse stone, and as it is ground off, water or oil is mixed with it, and it makes a very excellent substitute for paint, ikushes are made of feathers, or the sinews of animals. The Eskimo of the Arctic find the same kind of stone in that region, and use it for painting or decorating their sleds. The Aleuts, especially west of Unalaska. are artistic in their work with grasses and roots, and the delicacj* with which they weave and braid them evinces wonderful skill. It is the practice of the natives of Southeast Alaska to blacken their faces in summer, by nibbing in soot mixed with seal oil. This is done to prevent the sun blistering them when traveling on the water. It also acts as a shad to their eyes, which would otherwise suffer from the glaring retiection of the sun's rays. The houses of natives in Southeast Alaska are constructed of hewn boards or planks, and in some of the larj^er villages they are built of massive logs, very similar to the log hoi'ses built Iv whites in heavily timbered countries. In the center there is a square opening, eight or ten feet across, which is neatly filled with gravel upon which the fire is built. The smoke a.sceihls to the roof through an opening made lengthwi.se, with the comb several feet long, of boards or thin slabs, that can be raised on either side so as to make a perfect draft, according to the direc- tion the wind is blowing. Around the fireplace, the floor is built a few inches high, and bunks are placed against the sides of the house in such number as the occupants require. There is rarely more than one room in the house. '■ The house of the Aleut or natives of the Aleutian archipel- ago is called a barabara, and is a sort of a sod house and dug- out combined. The entrance is usually by a dark and narrow opening, through which the natives crawl, and which leads into the main room. J02 ALASKA. HON. WARRKN TKIITT. Hon. Warren Truitt, Jud{(e of the United States District Court for Alaska, whose term of office has nearly expired, will probably enjoy the distinction of being the only Judge who held his position during the full four years for which he was appointed, his predeces.sors either resigning or were removed before the expiration of their term. He was appointed by President Harri- son, and is the only Republican officeholder in tlu- territory. As a jurist and a citizen, Judge Truitt commands the respect of the whole people, and his careful watchfulness over the rij^hts of the natives, meting out to them just deserts when offenders, and standing as their ])rotector when improperly treated, has made them his warnu'st friends. Hy his strict integ- rity, his fairmiiidedness and the impartial administration of the dutie.sof his office, he has won for himself an enviable reputation as a man of broad mind, fine judicial ability and an honorable and ujjright judge He enjoys the honor of presiding over the largest district, from a geographical stand- point in the world. CHAPTER XI. ESKIMO HABITS AM) CUSTOMS. ^1 ij^ ^HE Eskimo, or Iniiuit, as they call themselves, of Arctic Alaska, do not live, as many sup- pose, in snow houses. They live in huts built underground. Usually more than one family occupy a sin- gle hut, and often ten or fifteen per- sons live for eight months in the year in a single apartment that is barely large enough for two per- sons. Their huts are built by digging a hole in the ground about six feet deep, and logs are stood up side by side all around the hole. On the tops of these are laid logs that rest even with the top of the ground. Stringers are then laid across them and other logs are laid on these, when moss and dirt is covered over, leaving an opening about two feet square, over which is stretched a piece of walrus entrail that is so transparent that light comes through, which answers the pur- pose of a window. An entrance into the hut is made through an apartment con- structed similar to the hut, in the top of which a hole is left large enough to admit a person, and by means of a sort of stepladder he reaches the bottom. P'rom this is a passageway, usually about two feet square, through which he must crawl on his hands and knees to reach the living room of the hut, perhaps fifteen or twenty feet away. At the end of the passage leading < i ■ ZAKSRIXKK. 104 ALASKA. into the hut is a skin which is pushed aside when one enters or goes out. When this is closed over the hole, the apartment is practically airtight, and when occupied by a dozen or more persons the air soon becomes so foul that one side of the little skin window has to be pulled up to let it escape. Occasionally a hut is found where the occupants appreciate the value of fresh air and have inserted a wooden spout in the roof through which the impure air is allowed to escape. No tables or chairs are ever used by the Eskimo, and the only article found in the way of furniture is their stove, or, more properly speaking, lamp. They are all of one pattern, usually of wood, but sometimes of stone, and are shaped the same as a circular board would be if cut in halves. The center of the lamp is hollowed out to a depth of perhaps a half inch, thus leaving a ridge all around. Along the circle of this ridge is spread a sort of cotton, gathered from a wild shrub in summer. This answers for a lamp wick, and when saturated with seal oil will burn a long time before being consumed. The lamp is placed on two wooden pins driven into the logs on one side of the hut, and above the lamp is driven another wooden pin, on which is placed a piece of seal blubber, just far enough from the ilame to cause the oil to drip sufficiently to furnish fuel for the lamp. The Eskimo may be truly said to burn the midnight oil, for their lamps are never suffered to go out from the time they are lighted in the fall until they abandon their huts for the tent in summer. They are their only stove, and for heating purpose^ are excellent. The Eskimo are, as a rule, industrious. It is so)dom that a lazy person is seen among either sex. They early learn that an existence is only to be had by applying themselves to some task, and the older they grow the more they are impressed with the knowledge that they can satisfy the cravings of an emptj- stom- ach only by industrious labor. The preparation of skins requires ceaseless exertion, and when they are ready to be made up, sinew thread must be braided and twisted, which of itself is an art. This is one of the first things a young girl is taught, and while she is yet almost an infant is capable of preparing thread from deer or whale sinew with all the dexterity of a woman. Most women are ex- pert sewers, and their stitches are often as even and regular as could be made by a machine. u .1 y u lIsKiMci Il(i\, I'isKiMo Hit, Eskimo C.iki.s, IIskimd I'amii.y, KSKI.MO Sl'KARINd WALRfS. ESKIMO HABITS AND CUSTOMS. IPJ It is probably from the fact that the Eskimos are obliged to put an endless amount of labor into nearly everything they make, that is to be found the secrect of their everlasting patience. They will scrape at a skin a long time before hardly an impression is made upon it, and rub and pull at one when it is hard and stiff. Their delicately formed hands seem poorly adapted to such kind of work , but in the end the skin becomes soft and pliable. Their hands are, without exception, small and prettily shaped. Even among those women who are tall and slimly built their hands are unusually small and shapely. The same is true of their feet ; and this feature, so prominent among the female sex, is also universal among the men. The complexion of the Eskimo is also of a character that one would scarcely expect to find among people who are brought so much in contact with the e'.e- ments. Although the color of their skin borders strongly on the olive order, it seems soft and clear. In eating, the Eskimo all sit around in a circle, and the food is placed on the floor in the center of the group. No meal, whether it be of dried or frozen fish, seal or whak: meat, is ready to be eaten until a vessel containing seal oil is at band. This is placed in a position easily reached by those eatin ?, nud, before taking a bite of anything, it is first dipped into the oil, or two or three fingers are thrust into it, and then placed into the mouth and sucked. Such a thing as a spoon is rarely eiver used by them, and it is doubtful if many of them would understand its use if they had one. It is when a household of Eskimo are gathered about the floor partaking of their food that their natural disposition to mirth is given full sway, and every meal, whether in their huts or in the tent on the beach, partakes more of the nature of a family re- union than an everyday occurrence. They are naturally given to jest and laughter, and a continual hubbub reigns until the last morsel is eaten. This predisposition toward good nature is always preser.t A surly Eskimo is rarely ceen, and whether it rains or shines, or the wind blows a blizzard from the north pole, they are the same happy and apparently contented people. The Eskimo have but one standard measure, and that is the fathom. It means as much as a man can span by holding his arms out at right angles to his body, and this measures about six feet. When buying calico or drilling of the whites, or measuring J* io6 ALASKA. the dimensions of a boat or Ior, or for any other purpose, it is always so many fathoms, or "e sung nuk," as it is called by them. If a woman wants to make a present, the only thing that sug- gests itself to her, and in fact the only thing she ever gives to a lover, is a tobacco pouch, or "tee rum i ute," as it is called. These they make of reindeer or squirrel skin in various styles, and decorate them with beads or some fancy-colored fur, such as the ermine, either in its delicate yellow tinge of summer or the pure white it assumes in winter. The Eskimo still cling to the primitive manner of making fire with flint stone and their little pieces of steel, usually a piece of an old file, and flint are as much a part of one's personal belong- ings as the coat he wears upon his back. They carrj' these articles in a little bag, in the bottom of which are little wads of the same fibrous material used for wicks for their oil lamps, and which is gathered from a wild Lush in the fall of the year. In making a light, they take a small piece of this cotton, which has previously been rolled in wood ashes, and, holding it between the thumb and flint, strike the steel against the stone, and the sparks emitted ignite the cotton, which is blown into a flame. It is a crude way of getting a fire started, but is one of the most simple and interesting of their customs, for it comes from a period of time when the Eskimo hpd to depend upon their own resources for obtaining a fire, and before they knew anything about the usefulness of the match of civilization. The Eskimo are complete slaves to tobacco, and it is seldom that one is seen who does not use it in one form or another. All the men and most of the women smoke, while a child, after it reaches the age of five or six years, appears not to be a true representative of his race if he cannot smoke a pipe or chew tobacco. While nearly all the women smoke, they take to chewing more naturally, and they do it so quietly that one would not suspect it from their actions. They never spit, and only crunch it occa- sionally , preferring to suck it or allow it to lie quietly in the mouth, and, as spittle accumulates, swallow it. They can not understand why a white man spits when chewing or smoking, for they seem to find pleasure in the habit only from swallowing the juice. If a native is chewing and wants to eat he carefully ESKIMO HABITS AND CUSTOMS. 107 takes the (juid of tobacco from his mouth and puts it on top of his ear. From this place it is afterwards taken to be again put in his mouth, and this process is repeated until he has gotten all the substance he can from the tobacco. It is then carefully put away in his tobacco pouch, to eventually find its way to his pipe, and the end of that tobacco is not reached until it is wafted away in clouds of smoke. An Eskimo who is without tobacco is as wretched as a confirmed drunkard without his whisky, and he will go to as great extremes to secure it as he would to pro- cure food for him.self and family. It is the first thing he asks for when a white man approaches him, and the first article he wants to trade for when he has furs to sell. The oomiak, or skin boat, is a curiously constructed affair, and when standing on the beach looks lumbering and awkward and as if it would not carry a heavy load or ride much of a sea ; yet as many as thirty or fortj' persons often get in one, and when thus loaded it will ride in rough water with remarkable buoy- ancy. The usual size of the oomiak is about thirty-five feet long, six feet beam, about four feet Jeep in the middle, and comes almost to a point at both ends. It is built something after the shape of a dory. The frame work is made of pieces of timber, the heaviest of which is about three inches square. These are placed crosswise in the bottom of the boat, and across them are lashed small strips by means of seal thongs, each joint being made to fit closely. When the timbers are firmly lashed together, they are very- strong, and a heavy sea striking the side of the boat will not cause it to yield at a single joint. When the framework is finally ready, walrus or sealskin is stretched over it, the pieces sewed together and pulled as tightly as possible, and then lashed to the top-rail. When the skin is in place scarcely a drop of wai er can penetrate through the seams. Over the top -rail about two feet of the skin is allowed to hang loosely on the inside, the whole length of the boat, and when sailing in rough weather, slats are raised between the skin and frame, the loose skin pulled up, thir& giving about two feet more of surface above the sea, and if carefully managed, scarcely a drop of water can reach the inside in the roughest weather. The oomiak has no keel and therefore cannot beat or tack against the wind, and the only thing to do if it blovs too hard, is to seek the first landing that can be made. . . m io8 ALASKA. There is generally but one mast to the oomiak, and this stands about one-third of the length back from the bow, and when there is no wind it is taken down and laid in the boat. Sometimes, when the wind is fair, a second but smaller mast is placed aboi/t the same distance from the stern of the boat, but they are only used in the largest oomiaks. The lower end of the mast is inserted in a slot between timbers in the bottom of the boat, and guys extend from near the top to both sides and also to both bow and stem. One not used to the oomiak is in constant dread of moving about, for fear that if he should step between the framework he will make a hole in the skin, for the water is plainly seen through it. The natives pay little attention to where they step in going from one part of the boat to another, and although their feet will depress the skin two or three inches, there is no danger of its giving way, and the very spot they are standing on would doubtless hold up a ton. The kyak used by the Eskimo is similar in construction and style to the skin canoe or bidarka found among the natives along the southern coast of Alaska. It is not much used by the coast Eskimo, as they do most of their traveling by water in the oomiak, but those in the interior use them to greater extent in navigating on the rivers and lakes, they being so light that they can carry them about with very little trouble. They are gen- erally the single-hatch kyak, but occasionally one is found with two or three holes and capable of carrying as many ^.ersons. An article of clothing that is indispensable among the Eskimo is the " kar pee tuk " or rain coat. It is made from the entrails of the seal or walrus, strips about three inches wide being .sewed together and made so as to slip over the head like an artiger. It is identical in shape and made the same as the " kamalika " worn by the natives along the southern coast of the territory. If care- fully sewed it is water-tight, and will weigh but a few ounces. It is rather a neat and ta.steful looking garment when dry, and rustles like silk, but when wet has a slick or slimy appearance strongly suggestive of the part of the animal from which it is made. A mark which serves as a good means of determining the sexes is that worn by the females, which consists of three or five lines about an eighth of an inch wide on the chin, which resem- bles tattooing made with India ink. Instead of pricking it in, a X n 3 p: P 1 1 1 i P ESKIMO HABITS AND CUSTOMS. 109 sharp instrument is drawn over the skin until blood comes, and wood ashes are then rubbed in. Thi.s practice is almost universal, and is usually put on when a girl reaches about the age of eight years. Among the men the practice of wearing labrets is common, though not .so universally adopted as tattooing among the women. These labrets are worn on either side of the lower lip, an aper- ture having been punctured with some pain and much care for the purpose. The most popular style is about a half-inch in diameter, but sometimes the}- reach the enormous size of an inch. They are usually made of highly polished ivory with a colored bead in the center, and are occasionally worn on both sides of the chin. Glass stoppers are much .sought after for this purpose, but not much worn on account of being difficult to obtain. The tattooing by the women and wearing of labrets by the men ha\ e no significance other than being considered an adorn- ment for the face. Some of the women have the middle latch of the nose pierced, from which beads are suspended, but they are considered troublesome ind are being abandoned. The favorite manner of having the ears pierced by the women is just above the end, from which two or three strings of beads are suspended, passing from one ear to the other under the chin. The younger women wear beads wound around their hair, which is first braided on both sides, and occasionally bracelets and neck- laces of beads are worn. The men seldom tattoo their arms or hands, and their only peculiarity of dress is wearing the labret and .shaving the crowns of their heads. Plurality of wives is a practice that is by no means common, and when it does occur it is among men who, by virtue of their possessing more property than their neighbors, are able to sup- port more than one wife. When the custom prf^vails, there apj^ars to be no disturbing or ciuarrelsome disposition, and if there is any, the aggrieved woman bottles her wrath, doubtless from fear that she will be turned out to shift for herself, which is more to be dreaded tlian any pang of envy or jealousy she might experience. The Arctic Alaska E.skimo is, physically, a fine specimen of the human race. While as a rule they will not average over five feet six or eight inches in height, occasionally a .six-footer is fotnid, but he is a very rare exception. They are not by any m mi no ALASKA. means dwarfish in stature or slow and sluggish in their move- ments; neither are they dull and stupid intellectually. The casual observer might think them so, for they appear subdued and reserved when among the whites; but when awaj' from them and left to act freelj-, they are bright, cheerful and intelligent. A stout or corpulent Eskimo is never seen. Their whole life is one which calls into play every muscle of the body, and they are distinctly an athletic race. Not a pound of superfluous flesh is on their closely knitted frames, and, while their hands, lower limbs, and feet are very small, their chests and shoulders are grandly developed, and their arms are muscular and sinewy. They are very fond of athletic sports, and football and jump- ing are practiced by them to a considerable extent. They in- dulge in many exercises that test their strength, such as pulling each other's arms when locked together, wrestling, lifting each other or heavy weights, and many such exercises that will bring into play everj- muscle. Many of them excel in jumping and kicking, and occasionally one is found who can kick with both feet higher than his own head, a performance that few white athletes can accomplish. Little Zaksriner, whose picture ap- pears at the opening of this chapter, performs a most wonderful feat. She clasps her hands behind her back, bending forward until her head touches the floor, and straightens up without bending her knees or unclasping her hands. The principal amusement of the Kskimo, however, is dancing, and they indulge in it upon the slightest provocation. While the women take part in this pastime, it is with moderation, and as a sort of embellishment to the fatiguing and wearisome jump- ing about so cea.selessly practiced by the men. They seem to find the most enjoyment in blending their voices with tho.se of the men in song. Although they do not possess the accomplish- ment to a very great extent, nor is the number of tunes verj' large, yet there is a harmony in them all that becomes the more pleasing to the ear the oftener they are heard. When dancing, one or more of the men beat upon a drum made by stretching a piece of walrus entrail over a hoop, and this .serves as a time-marker for the participants in the dance, to which the grotesque throwing about of the arms and twisting of their bodies are made to add .1 pantomimic accompaniment. During all this time they jump and whirl about in the most vio- lent manner, and only stop from sheer exhaii«tion. CHAPTER XII. REINDIiKR. CT F'lVE years ago a United States revenue cutter, which was detailed by the government to patrol the Arctic, so as to render assistance to the whaling vessels if they should be nipped in the ice, had occasion to pass within sight of a little island in North Bering sea, and about forty miles from the coast, known as King's island. The man on the lookout at once noticed a boat put off from the island, loaded with people, and it immediately paddled toward the vessel. As soon as it came alongside the occupants made known to the captain that they were in a starv- ing condition. An officer was at once sent ashore, and he soon returned and reported that the people were so reduced for food that they had been living for some weeks on their Ivskimo dogs. There are about 300 Eskimos on this island, and they live in huts dug into the side of a mountain, gaining an entrance and passing from one to another bj' means of pole ladders strung along an abrupt portion of it, and, though difficult of access, the location of the huts affords protection from the severe winds and cold of the long winter. For eight months in the year, the ice absolutely prevents the natives from having any communication with those on shore, and they only come in contact with them when they venture acrGi:s the water in their skin boats during the brief summer. A few years ago the walrus existed in large numbers through- out all this region. The whalers on their way north have hunted them so closely that they have jiractically exterminated them. The walrus travel in herds, jmlling out on the ice, sleeping and basking in the sun, and in f'is condition become an easy prey to the white man with his breech-loading rifle. They are hunted by the whalers simply for their ivory tu.sks, a pair of them weighing from eight to twenty pounds, and having a value of only about eighty cents per pound. The ivory is used by the i '11 iia ALASKA. natives in the manufacture of manj' of their implements of the hunt and chase, their skin is used by them for tents and cover- ings for their boats pnd canoes, and the flesh and oil are consid- ered by them a delicacy. Five or six years ago it was not an uncommon thing for a party of Eskimo to put out in a skin boat, and with their crude harpoon and spears, capture a whale, but the American whalers have so closely pursued them, that now they are onlj- found a long distance north of the last settlement. During the summer of 1894, but one whale was caught by the Eskimo. A single whale will average from twelve hundred to two thousand pounds of whalebone. Its market value is from four to six dollars per pound, and it is easily seen that a whaler that captures three or four whales in a season, comes pretty near paying for his ship, outfit and the risk he runs in entering those icy fields in search of this valuable animal. Since the advent of the whalers many natives have bought muzzle-loading rifles and ammunition from them, and have hunted the wild reindeer, killing them off without regard to age or sex, until they, too, are practically exterminated. A few years ago they roamed all through Arctic Alaska in large herds, but the past year but two of them were killed by these people. Thus it will be .seen that the greed of the white man has robbed these people of two of their principal food supplies, until to-day they are left in almo.st a starving condition, being obliged to depend almost entirely upon the hair seal and small fish for their food supply. Dr. Sheldon Jackson was on board the revenue cutter when it visited King's island, and on his return to Wa.shington City, he interested the government in behalf of the starving Eskiino, and .secured an appropriation for the purpose of introducing reindeer from Siberia, where they exist in immense herds. The purpose contemplated being to establish stations in different parts of Arctic Ala.ska, instruct the Eskimo in the manner of rearing them, and when they learn to care for them, as the natives do in Siberia, di.stribute them among the natives so that in the future they will have an unfailing food and clothing supply. The author of this book was selected by the government to establish a reindeer station at Port Clarence, and in the sunnner of 1892, one hundred and seventy of these animals were brought over from the Siberian coast and the station duly organized. •iM I I: Kings Island, Nokth Ui;rin<'. Ska. The reiii are 1 Itc rein nan the com thes is f( Uni UStt sea; mos is d erl> glO! at t iss( Th( nat; seal ski] tho con bue but Till by 5**I«i' i*u.»i'«*««"ryi*/l "*w-'«i;i« ^ REINDKER. "3 The increase the first year was nearly fifty per cent, and other reindeer have been brought over each year since, so that there are now nearly seven hundred in the herd. Arctic Alaska is peculiarly adapted to the raising of reindeer. It consists of vast areas of tundra and moss which furnishes the reindeer with an article of food especially adapted for their suste- nance. There is little doubt that the reindeer industry will, in the near future, asssume considerable proportions, and private companies will embark in the business of raising this animal in these regions for commercial purposes, the same as stock-raising is followed in the grazing regions in many of the States of the Union. Its flesh is excellent and as palatable as the venison usually found in the market, and the hides, if cured in the proper season, are well adapted to many purposes of commerce. The color of the fur of the reindeer is varied. Perhaps the most common is the seal -brown, and when free from other shades is decidedly rich in appearance. The fur, for such it may prop- erly be called, after it has taken on its summer coat is .soft and glossy and about the length of that of the fur-seal. When taken at this season, if properly dres.sed, it sheds very little. The skin is soft and pliable, and but little thicker than that of the fur-seal. The reindeer skin was at one time the only one used by the natives for their clothing, tents, and everything else, but now the seal and ground squirrel skins play an important part. Reindeer skins have Ijecome a matter of luxury with the natives, and only tho.se who deny themselves other things that they need for their comfort, wear reindeer clothing. In the country about Kotze- bue Sound occasionally a skin is secured from a wild reindeer, but is so rare that it assumes somewhat the nature of a curiosity. Thus it will be seen that, practically, all the reindeer skins used by the Alaskan Ivskimo come from Siberia. CHAPTER Xlir. MISSIONARIKS AND THHIR WORK. IT was in 1793, that Catherine, Empress of Russia, sent mis- sionaries to Russian America to instruct the natives in religion, and at the same time, also sent convicts from Siberia to teach them agriculture. The result of this strange admixture was, that, in ten years, the number of natives was largely reduced, the outrages of unscrupulous men being so unspeakable. The lives of natives were valued no more than those of dogs ; and the spirit and life were nearly stamped out of such as sur\'ived. The Russian proverb — "Heaven is high and the czar dis- tant" — was followed literally, and t'^.' indignities practiced upon the unfortunate natives were without limit. A few priests of the Greek faith tried to stem the tide, but succeeded in an indifferent manner. Their missions were established at different points on the coast, and even in the interior. TI;e natives, attracted by the pomi> and ceremony of the church, were attentive listeners and ob- servers. But they understood very little, and not much informa- tion was imparted, aside from teaching the Russians and half- breed children the rites of the church. Indian attendance was not encouraged in the Russian schools. During the Russian occupancy. Fins, Swedes, and Germans were largely employed by the fur company, and a Lutheran mis- sionary was sent out to Sitka for their benefit, and a mission established in 1845. The Russian schools and churches, for the most part, were closed in 1867, when the American flag dis- placed that of Russia ; and Russians and other Europeans returned to their respective countries, leaving the people "cor- rupted and degraded by their influence. ' ' The Lutheran preacher with his flock also departed. United States soldiers were placed in frontier posts, and a new set of tradero took the jilaces of the former ones. For seventeen years Congress neglected to provide any form of civil government for her new possessions; all i)rogress was checked, and healthful development was at a discount. This MISSIONARIHS AND THEIR WORK. 115 was, no doubt, due to the bitter denunciations of the purchase of Alaska, and the ridicule heaped upon what was sneeringly referred to as ' Seward's follj." Alaska was considered by the great American piople as a whole to be an inhospitable region of perpetual snow and ice ; peopled by ignorant, fierce and degraded savages — notwithstanding the statement which has been so often quoted from Mr. Seward's speech on Alaska: "That it must be a fastidious person who complains of a climate in which, while the eagle delights to soar, the humming bird does not disdain to flutter. ' ' Finally, the tales of gold discovery, coupled with the work of American and other missionaries, stimulattd our government into attempting an assumption of its duty. It is an undoubted fact, that the present geographical knowledge of this vast coun- try has been largely gained through devoted missionaries, and it is also due to this class of persons that the natives have learned "that the white men are not all bad," abelief strongly implanted in their minds from their intercourse with viscious traders, and imscrupulous persons. To Dr. Sheldon Jack- son, who first visited .Alaska in 1884, is due, in a large measure, the present excellent condi- tion of the Alaska .school system. He saw for him- self the degradation and ignorance which prevailed among the natives, and the virgin field offered for educational and other work. Through his efforts, Mrs. A. R. McFarland, an intrepid woman, took up the work at Fort Wrangel, where a native teacher named Philips had, un- aided, sought to elevate i)K siiKi.DoN J ACKso- the moral status of his people, and instruct them in civil methods. Mrs. McFarland became nurse, doctor, undertaker, preacher and teacher. No marriage ceremony then existed among the natives, and poly- Ii6 ALASKA. gamy, slavery and devil dances were common. Her untiring efforts did much to eradicate these evils, and further substantial progress. She left Fort Wrangel a few years later, and is now engaged in the same work at the lower portion of Prince of Wales Island, where she is loved and respected by the natives. In 1885, Congress made an appropriation for the Alaska pub- lic school system, and Dr. Jackson was appointed General Agent of Education for the territory. In this capacity he has estab- lished schools in the most advantageous points throughout the whole territory, and the apportionment of the public moneys, among the already established church denominations, has made the missionary work of Alaska a mighty bulwark of religious strength for the welfare of the natives. Dr. Jackson is truly a pioneer christian worker. After many years of arduous duty in a number of the western territories, he sought a new field in the great Ala.skan territory. He was confronted by the totally un- organized state of the country, devoid of laws or government, but his indomitable spirit was not held down by difficulties — he gained the ear of the powers at Washington --and his earnest, fervent faith is daily proved by his works. To Dr. Jackson also belongs the credit of importing reindeer from Siberia to Arctic Alaska. While in .search of new fields for missionary and school work, he discovered that the Eskimos were starving. He at once interested government in the cause, and to-day the industry of domesticating reindeer in that .section is an assured fact. In this connection it is proper to add that this humane propo- sition was at first met with severe criticism and opposition on the grounds that it was impracticable and a useless expenditure of public money. And were it not that Mr. Harris, I'nited States Commissioner of Education, gave it his hearty support and encouragement, the most beneficent act ever extended to a worthy and starving people, would not have become as it has, an assured success. And to this broad-minded and worthy official who has stood faithfully by the cau.se of education in Alaska, is also largely due the credit of its advancement in this far off" territory. The first school in Alaska was organized at Kadiak by Gregory Shelikoff", in 1 784. And the first church building was also there erected; it still exists, but the school has been extinct for a quar- ter of a century. The Indian industrial training schools have proved excellent institutions. Among these three deserve especial mention. P h MISS.ONARIKS AND THKIK WORK. ttf They are located at Sitka, Koserefski on the Yukon, and at New Metlakahtla. The founder and director of the latter is Mr, William Duncan, to whose work reference is made elsewhere in this volume. The school at Sitka is partially aided ly this gov- ernment and is under the management of the Presl)\ terian Board of Home Missions, and that of Koserefski is under Roman Cath- olic supervision. In these schools the boys are taught painting, carpentry, shoemaking and other trades. The girls are instructed in cook- ing, baking, .sewing and all branches of i)lain housekeeping, the purpose in .short of these schools being to civili/e and chris- tianize the native children. The number of i>rivate schools sujiported by various religious denominations, is nineteen, while the number sui)ported by the government is sixteen. The Russian church, establi.shed .so long ago, has many communicants, but many of tlieni retain their belief in witchcraft, jjolygamy and kindred barbarous prac- tices. The indefatigable efforts of teachers and missionaries, their absolute devotion to the work of civilization and christianizing the natives of Alaska, has been of incalculable benefit to this hitherto neglected people. There has been mental, moral and physical growth, whose influence is far-reaching, and which .should command the hearty sympathy and support of all humani- tarians, irrespective of class or creed. The Creek church, .so early in the field, had a few — a very few — noble exceptions among their priests who did good work for the natives. Father Tosi, of the Roman Catholic faith, has labored long years with devotion on the Yukon. Father Altlioff after .sixteen years of Ala.skan labor has been appointed to work in Yancouver, Hrltish Columbia. He opened the mission work in Juneau, founded there the school and hospital of .St. Anns and the Roman Catholic church. Through many discouragements and uncer- tainties. Father AlthofF and the good sisters labored at Juneau, receiving nothing for their .services save their frugal board and modest apparel. ITpon his departure to his new field, the Scanhliii/it, of Juneau, on February 25th, i8y5, gave a most fitting tribute to his services, which con«luded thus: "As a priest, the prayers of his people will go with him, as a citizen he will l)e greatly mis.sed; as one of the worthy pioneers of the ■'i Ii8 ALASKA territory he will ever he hekl iti j^rateful reinetnhrance by all who feel an interest in the welfare of Alaska." Rev. Hall Vounj? ard wife, formerly at Fort Wranjjel. Pro- fessor and Mrs. John A. Tuck, of the Methodist Episcopal church, stationed at Unalaska, Mr. and Mrs. W. T. Lopp, Con- gregational, at Cape Ptiiice of Walts, Mr. and Mrs. I. Looniis Gould, Presbyterian, at Jackson, Rev. and Mrs. I'.. A. Austin, Presbyterian, at vSitka, have all worked for a number of years with a devotion rarely equalled. HAKHISON U 'nUiKNTDN The noble family of martyrs have also been recruited within Alaskan borders. Father Juvenal, a Rus.-ian priest, was killed at Cook inlet for his interference with polygamy. Archl)ishop Seghers, of the Roman Catholic church, was murdered on the Yukon by a traveling companion. A teacher named F!dwards was killed at Kake village in i S()i, while attempting to enforce the law in regard to the landing of whisky, and in the summer of 1S93, Harrison R. Thornton, a young missionary and teacher who, with his wife, was stationed at Cape Prince of Wales, was cruelly murdered by Fl.skimos, for which act there was no cause and which could have been prevented. CHAPTr-R xrv TIIK linlNIiAKV DISITTi;. 'T'HI'' carl J- founders of the American nation, who sought an asylum in New Ivngland, free from the religions intolerance and oi)])rcssion of the mother country, declared that they ofTered a shelter to ihe " oj)presscd of every nation." The invitation thus extended by the early pioneers was generous, and how it has been taken advantage of is evidenced to- day by the fact that the I'nited States has a cosmopolitan pojiulation. Tiiose who sought these shores to make homes and become good citizens have been welcomed. They have had the protec- tion of govertiment and have become factors in the upbuilding of the republic. And the open arms and generous freedom which the I'nited vStates has ever extended to kinsmen over the water are traits that but typify our national characteristics. Xo sentries have been stationed on crag or promontory lo warn off intruders ; no large standing army has been maintained in order that the people might exercise all their rights of citizenship. Differences with other nations which have arisen from time to time have been, for the most part, settled by arbitration. Some- times we have had our rights acknowledged, and at others we have acquiesced in unfavorable decisions, that the credit and honor of the nation might be maintained and that peaceful relations might be sustained. No spirit of national aggrandize- ment has Ijcen manifest in the history of the United States. The notable wars of this nation have been waged in the name of life and liberty, and for the united country. International complications have not been unknown, it is true, but it is submitted that this country has been fair, reasonable and placable, always, in dealing with questions of comity, com- merce or privileges with other nations. In the matter of the fur seal dispute with England, the defeat suffered by our govern- ment, is yet fresh in the minds of all our citizens. The award !| lao ALASKA, made by the Paris tribunal seems to us to be most unjust, and yet, as an advanced civilized nation, our honor would be impugned were it noi strictly adhered to. No nation worthy of the name can afford to besmirch its reputation by any attempt to repudiate a solemn compact. Hardly had the decision of the Paris tribu- nal been handed down, before the attention of the country was called to a matter in which England again became the aggressor, and that too, in connection with the territory of Alaska. This is the so-called boundary dispute between Canada and the United States, embracing a portion of Southeastern Ala ska. While the British and Canadian authorities have been active, our government and people have shown an apathetic spirit in deal- ing with the question; but it is now noted that attention is being directed to it, largely through the instrumentality of citizens of Alaska and the State of Washington who are conversant with the question, and of the importance of this strip of territory, from commercial and geographical aspects, being retained to the northern territory and to the United States. We believe ihat it is time for a re-enunciation of the patriotic principle contained in the Monroe doctrine, if our self respect as a nation cannot be otherwise maintained — " that the United States will not permit European interference or European control in America, north or south." In view of the importance of this question to the United States, and especially to Alaska, it is in order here to consider the subject in its various details. The claim made by the British government, acting at the instance of Canada, embraces a valu- able strip of land, a portion of which is the key to a vast extent of the interior of Alaska, rich in mineral and other resources. Though tne immense valuv^ of this land cannot be accurately determined, a knowledge of its geographical position on the coast, shows that great commercial advantages will accrue from its possession, and that the United States cannot afford to be otherwise than firm and aggressive, in asserting and maintainng our rights to ownership of this strip. By the organic act of Alaska, in the absence of the governor, the clerk of the court shall act in that capacity. Upon the assembling of Congress last December, the governor was called to Washington, and soon after he left Sitka, the disputed bound- ary question was given new impetus, by the appearance of a party of Canadian surveyors at Juneau, wiiom '.i was reported THE BOUNDARY DISPUTE. 131 HON. CHAKI.IIS I). K()('.i;rS. were to iinniediately commence a survej' into the interior via the Taku river, and that this action was to be followed by the estab- lishment of a British garrison in Alaskan territory. Acting Governor Rogers said he would call out the militia and swear into service the whole native population of Alaska, if any at- tempt was made to occupy any portion of our territory, or inter- fere in any way with the rights of American citizens. This burst of patriotism on the part of the young oflicial earned for him the title of war governor of Alaska, and had there been any cause for such action, the sturdy miners and settlers throughout the territory, to a man, would ha\e rallied to his support. An interpretation of the treaty, concluded lietwecn Russia and England in 1S25, clearly establishes the line of demarkation between what is now Ala.ska, and what constitutes a portion of Canada. This treaty was brought about, primarily, l)y a ukase of the 132 ALAvSKA. Russian C/.ar, issued in 1.S21, to the effect, that foreign vessels would not be allowed to approach within one hundred miles of Russian America. Negotiations followed this ukase, resulting in the treaty between Russia and England in 1825, wherein Russia accepted 54 degrees and 40 minutes north latitude as the south- ern limit of her possessions. The treaty was couched in the following language: "Sec. 3. The line of demarkation between the possessions of the high contracting parties upon the coast of the continent and the islands of America tu the northwest, shall be drawn in the following manner: Commencing from the southernmost point of the island called Prince of W'^les Island, which point lies in the parallel of 54 degrees 40 minutes north latitude, and between the 131 and 133 degrees of west longitude: the .^anie line shall a.scend to the north along the channel called Portland channel as far as the point of the continent where it strikes the 56th degree of north latitude: from this last mentioned point the line of demarkation shall follow tlie summit of the mountains situated parallel to the coast, as far as the point of intersection of the 141 degree of west longitude (of the same meridian), and finally, from the said point of intersection of the 141 degree, in its prolongation as far as the frozen ocean, shall form the limit be- tween the Russian and British po>'^essions on the continent of America to the northwest. " Sec. 4. That wherever the summit of the mountains* which extend in a direction parallel to the coast, from the 56 degree of north latitude to the point of intersection of the 141 degree of west longitude, shall jirove to be at the distance of more than ten marine leagues from the ocean, the limit between the Briti.sh po.s.se.ssions and the line of coast which is to belong to Russia as above mentioned, shall be formed by a line parallel to the wind- ings of the coast, and which shall never exceed the di.stance of ten marine leagues therefrom,'' It will be noted that at the time of the purchase of Russian America by the United States, in 1867, the limits of the territory were described in the articles of cession by Russia, in the exact language which apjiears in this treat} above referred to. It will also be observed that the name Portland canal is mentioned as the eastern boundary as far north as the fifty-si .\th degree north latitude. - At the time of the treaty between Russia and Kngland little ten clai Ru Icai or MMBMMMIHMMMlMk. THE BOUNDARY DISPUTK. '23 was known of this region, save througli the explorations of Captain George Vancouver. In his narrative published towards the close of the last century, he speaks of Portland carpi, and also located a certain rock in Behni canal, and named it " New Eddystone Rock," after the rock near the south coast of England upon which stands the famous Eddystone light-house known to mariners the world over. The Alaska rock, " New Eddystone," is two hundred and fifty feet high and about sixty feet in width at its base. When the treaty of 1825 was made, England recognized the claim of Russia to the territory as far east as Portland canal, and continued this recognition until the purchase was made by the United States in 1S67. For more than twenty years preceding the treaty the Hudson Hay Company paid Russia an annual rental for the privilege of trading in the inland waters to the northwest of Portland canal, and our government maintained a garrison at Fort Tongas at the mouth of this canal until 1S70 and a custom house until i.ScSg. The maps ij^sued by the United States since the Alaska pur- cha.se and tho.se published by the British authorities, followed generally the .same line of demarkation. until the year 1S87. At that time a change was noticed in the British maps, for their line was then made to extend within the limits defined by the maps of our government. Hence, it is only fair to infer, that when this strip of land became better known to England, and its value more or le.ss accurately determined, a first attempt was made to set up a claim to the territory, through the medium of maps published by the British government. And the claim once set up, it may be further inferred that in any negotiations which should follow, England would rely upon the power of British craft and diplomacy to win both the point and the territory. The policy pursued by the English govern- ment in this matter, is entirely in keeping with the method of aggrandizement that has been followed for hundreds of years by Great Britain. The line of demarkation followed by the United States ex- tended ten marine leagues back from salt water into the interior, claiming a strict interpretation of the articles of cession from Russia, who.se language was construed to mean ten marine leagues or thirty-four miles inland from every point, -cheUier b^y or iuirt, where salt water washed the shores of the mainland, 184 ALASKA. unless a defined range of mountains intervened running parallel with the coast, in which case, the summit of such range became the limit. The British claim, that where the summit of the mountains are not within the ten marine league limit, the boundary shall be that distance from the main channels of water. They also claim that the eastern boundary shall run due north from the southern- most point of Prince of Wales Island, until it intersects Behm canal; thence following this channel north as far as the fifty- sixth degree of north latitude: thence following the line of the coast to the intersection of the 141 degree of west longitude. Nowhere along the coast between Portland canal and Mt. St. Elias does there appear to be a defined range of mountains, but rather a confused jumble, having no regularity of course or bear- ing any relation to each other, and the noble peak, Mt. St. Elias, that defines the boundary between the British possessions and our territory at the 141 degree of west longitude, stands solitary and alone in its awe inspiring magnificence. By reference to the map, it will be observed that in taking Portland canal as the eastern limit, an castwxrd course must be followed from the southernmost point of Prince of Wales Island, in order to reach said canal. It will also be noted, that from the extreme northern limit of Portland canal, to the nearest salt water — that of Walker cove, an arm of Behm canal — it is about thirty-four miles. It is therefore fair to presume that in taking the canal for a boundary, it was with a view of measuring from the inland waters, and not the main channels. It is also worthy of note, that, if it was not intended to take this canal for the eastern boundary, it would not have been necessary to have mentioned it in the treaty, and the simple reference, due north, would have been all that was necessary to convey the intent It is also claimed by the British, that this canal could not have been intended, because it does not extend to the 56 dogree. It is true that it does not reach that point by abcut one mile, but if it were five or even ten miles shorter, it would lot be any stronger argument for the other side, for, in the langu.age of the treaty, " the same line shall ascend to the north along the chan- nel called Portland channel as far as the point of the continent where // strikes the 56 degree,' the line is what is intended should strike the 56 degree, and not the channel. Should, then, the claim of Great Britain be finally allowed, she will acquire a THE BOUNDARY DISI'UTE. "S strip of country seventy-five by one hundred miles in extent be- tween Portland and Behm canals, which rightfully belongs to the United States. While stress is laid upon the encroachments that this bound- ary line of the British would make upon our eastern coast, it cannot be too clearly demonstrated, that where their boundary line deflects westward at about 58 degrees, forty minutes north, and thence follows to the 136 degree of west longitude, and there takes a southwesterly course to Mt. St. Elias, is to be found a strip of coast territory upon which the natural greed of England has particularly set its eye. This coast land furnishes the outlet to the great interior of Alaska, and it is the only available entrance to its immense gold fields. Ever since the interior country has presented a field for the gold prospector, miners have gone over the mountains from the head of Lynn canal, and when the time comes, as it surely will, within the next few jears, to construct a railroad into the valley of the Yukon, and on to Bering sea; our go\ i i nment must not lose sight of the fact that the contour of the country will cause it to start from the head of Lynn canal, in an overland route, where no abrupt mountains obstruct the way. The British claim to this one hundred s«,|uare miles of terri- tory would also include Glacier Hay, the most wonderful body cf water in the worid. It is about twenty miles wide by forty long. Ten other glaciers beside the celebrated Muir glacier pour their huge bodies into this magnificent bay, and then move on through channels many fathoms deep out into the sea. Snow-clad moun- tains with their deep ravines, moraines and mountainous gorges fringe the bay on all sides, and help to form one of the most enchanting and delightful spots that the imagination can conceive. It is well known that a foreign ship cannot land passengers on American soil without conforming to certain laws, and as 'ong as Glacier Bay is in United States territory, British ships can- not transport tourists trax^eling over Canadian roads and land them in this bay. Neitiber can for^g^ ships discharge foreign goods in American territory without observin^^ ct-rtain customs regulations. But il the Engiisfa sbnuld accinire territory inside any of the inland waters of Lynn canal, or Taku inlet twelve miles south of Juneau, they could establish stations, cciistruct trails or wagon route^ into the interior, and it is safe to say WBOaid control the trade of that region. 136 ALASKA. Thus it is clearly apparent that many reasons which do not appear on the surface, besides the mere desire to acquire a strip of land, cause England to push her claim to a settlement of the boundary question in her favor. Should the gold fields of the interior develop to the extent anticipated, a large emigration is sure to come hither, and in its wake will follow the growth of mining and other resources, and commerce will reach vast proportions. The point sought to have been reached during our controversy with England over the northern boundary of the then territory of Oregon, which gave rise to the cry " fifty-four forty or fight," is the point where our Alaskan possessions begin, and had Alaska, at that time been ours, we might not have weakly receded from our position, and the stretch of country which to-day lies between the State of Washington and Alaska, might furnish the missing link in the continuous chain of our coast line from Lower Cali- fornia to the frozen ocean. Petty and unworthy of the grandeur of a nation upon whose empire the sun never sets, may seem the narrative which we now desire to present, as another of the many reasons why England is seeking to make good her claim to this territory. Little things have ere this made the great covetous. Some thirty-eight years ago, a young Englishman named William Duncan landed at Fort Simpson, about seven miles south of the Alaskan l)oundary. He came altne, knowing nothing of the people among whom he was about to cast his lot, but at the early age of twenty-one, solemnly dedicated his life to the cause of raising from barbarism a race, whose fre(|uent acts of cannibal- ism stamped them as among the most savage people on the face of the earth. Fort Simpson was, for many years, one of the most important trading posts of the Hudson's Bay Company. It is truly said that the number of bear .skins necessary for a native to purchase a muzzle-loading rifle depended upon the luunber, piled one upon another, that it took to reach the muzzle of the gun, when the butt end rested on the ground. The agents of this company were safely quartered behind stockades, within which enclosure only n certain number of natives were ever admitted at one time. Yet this darntless youth, filled with the spirit of the Master, and full of confidence in an over-ruling Providence, dwelt in a cabin, through the sides of which there were no port-holes, and within 2 a K r I! i t c r i s 1 r r t C 11 o P ti t; b s a f( ii a u fl fi 53C»M THE KOUNDARY DISl'UTE. 127 whose walls no rifle was at hand in case of an attack from outside. Metlakahtla was the village that Mr. Duncan established more than a third of a century ago. There eight hundred natives lived and prospered. Taught by their devoted friend, they sawed logs, built houses, canned salmon, and engaged in nearly every branch of business that would utilize the products of the coun- try. A church edifice, that would do credit to many a larger white settlement, reared its spire heavenward, and every man, woman and child in the settlement regularly sought religious consolation there. But a representative of the Church of England appeared among them, and insisted that that portion of the sacrament, wherein wine is administered, and which Mr. Duncan had ignored, should be observed. His reason for not carrying out this important tenet of the church, was that he had found his greatest trouble in teaching the natives to avoid intoxicating drinks ; and he reasoned, that if he permitted wine at the sacra- ment, his people would not understand why they should not indulge in liquor, at other times. Mr. Duncan's prejudice in this matter was so strong that he said if his course were not permitted, he would take his people, like the pilgrims of old, to some place where they could exercise religious liberty, untrammeled by church dogmas. The church ruling was insi.stant, and Mr. Duncan, ecjually determined, went to Washington, sought Mr. Cleveland and explained how the Church of England had attempted to supplant him with another minister among the people to whom he had devoted his life. He was assured by the President that this government would offer an asylum where they could enjoy religious freedom ; and promised that Congress would take action, looking to their pro- tection. Accordingly, on March 3, 1891, a bill was passed, set- ting aside Annette island for the use and benefit of these natives, but immediately following his visit to Washington, and upon the strength of the promise that his people would be protected, they abandoned their improvements, and property, gave up their com- fortable homes, and with only a few household goods, went out into the wilderness. On the seventh day of August, 18.S7, they arrived at their present home, naming it New Metlakahtla, and under the graceful folds of the .stars and stripes, which they had flung to the breeze, they solennily transferred their allegiance from Canada to the United States. I 138 ALASKA. In the past seven years a settlement has been built up that bears witness of wonderful progress in civilization by these peo- ple. They live in comfortable houses, many of them handsome and homelike. Every branch of business is represented as in their old home, only in a more advanced scale, and the people are self-sustaining, industrious and happy. And age reminds Mr. Duncan that his task is nearly finished. The thirty-eight years he has spent among these natives finds them enjoying all the benefits of civilization, and in quiet possession of homes earned by honest toil. But is it any wonder that he looks into the future with sad misgivings, and in fear that the hand of his old enemy, now stretched across the boundary, and taking his settlement within British lines, will yet draw his people in its avaricious grasp ? We do not believe the American Congress can afford to stultify itself bj' yielding one jot from the position it has taken in this matter to Mr. Duncan, and to which it solemnly stands com- mitted. That it is clearly the intention of the Canadian govern- ment backed by Eu gland to secure this strip of territory, is unmistakable. For the past two years the labors of the Canadian boundary commission have been marked by a determination to obtain all possible information concerning the disputed territory. Government engineers and surveyors have been indefatigable in their explorations to secure in detail thorough and exhaustive knowledge, which will be placed before the joint commission when the boundary question comes up for adjudication next November. There is no doubt that the Canadian government will make out the strongest possible case, and in this it will be aided by the intimate knowledge of the country gained by the actual investigation of their engineers. But it seems to us that a correct interpretation of the treaty of 1825, coupled with a firm presentation of our case, should leave the British claim without any support whatever, and with such vigorous assertion of our rights, Alaska will not be despoiled of a valuable portion of her heritage. IS THE BEST LINE FOR ALASKA P^' PACIFIC COAST POINTS AND THE ONLY J|^£ YELLOWSTONE LINE TO NATIONAL PARK AA THROUGH TICKETS FROM CHICAGO WASHINGTON PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK BOSTON AND ALL POINTS EAST AND SOUTH FOR FULL INFORMATION CALL ON OR WRITE B. N. Austin, Assistant Oeneral Passenger Agent, St. Paul, Minn. A. I,. Crnig, Assistant (ieneral Ticket Agent, St. Paul, Minn. Cleo. R. Hitch, General Eastern Agent, iig Broadway, New York. F. H. Hogarty, General Agent, 210 South Clark St. Chicago, 111. T. K. Stateler, Gen. Agt. Pass Dept. 638 Market St., San Francisco, Cal. Chas K. Johnson, 817 Carnegie Building, Pittsburg, Pa. Frank A. Gross, 15 State St., Boston, Mass. J. H. Rogers, Jr., 47 South Third St., Philadelphia. I,. I.. Billingslea, 47 South Third St., Philadelphia. 1 Wm. G. Ma.son, 44 Hxchange St., Buffalo, N. V. W. K. Mershon, 319 Broadway, New York City. A. U. Edgar, Helena, Montana. Wm. Tuohy, Butte, Montana. Geo. D. Rogers St. Paul, Minnesota. Thomas Henry, 128 St. James St , -Montreal, Quebec. W. H. Whitaker, 153 Jefferson Avenue, Detroit, Michigan. ■ J. E. Turner, 42 Jackson Place, Indianapolis, Indiana. C. G. Lemmon, 210 South Clark St.. Chicairo. 111. H. Swintord, Winnipeg, Manitoba. R. A. Eva, Duluth, Minn. J. N. Robinson, 99 Wisconsin St., Milwaukee, Wisconsin. P 11. Noel, 103 North Broadway, St. I.ouis, Mo. J. J. Kerry, Room 32 Carew Bldg., Cincinnati, Ohio, c. Vanderbilt, 503 West Locust St., Des Moines, Iowa. E. L. Rayburn, 255 Morrison, Cor. Third, Portland Oregon F. O'Neill, -i55 Morrison, Cor. Third, Portland, Oregon. I. A. Nadeau, General Agent, Seattle, Washington. A. Tinling, General Agent, Taconia, Washington. F. D. Gibbs, General Agent, Spokane, Washington CHAS S. FEE. Genl. Pa.ss. and Ticket Agt., St. Paul, Minn A. I). CHARLTON, Asst. Genl. Pass. Agt., Portland, Ore.