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Les diagramrM««s suivants lllustrent la mAthode. t errata d to It le pelure, pon A n 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 f HI m nw g)i flB TOEOISTTO- STRICTLY FIRST-CLASS IN ALL ITS APPOINTMENTS. Celebrated for its home comforts, perfect quiet, excellent attendance, and the gjculiar excellence of its cuisine ; it has been patronized by their Royal Highnesses rince Leopold and the Princess Louise, the Marquis of Lome, Lord and Lady Dufferin, the Marquis and Marchioness of Lansdowne, and the best families. Is most delightfully situated near the Bay, on Front Street, and is one of the largest and most comfortable hotels in the Dominion of Canada. McGAW & WINNETT, Proprietors. n^^ii^s ^@gal tt@t#l. NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE, ONT. This Hotel and Summer Resort is located in a beautiful grove opposite Fort Niagara, at the head of Lake Ontario and the mouth of the Niagara River. It is capable of accommodating three hundred and fifty guests. All modern improvements. The drives along the banks of the Lake and River are beautiful and refreshing. Application for rooms may be made to the proprietors of the Queen's Hotel, Toronto, up to June ist, after that date to the " Queen's Royal," Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont. McGAW?&^WINNEn, Proprietors, _.;a*^"'"-J^^-=xi=^r TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANADA. w'V.X'V.'K.-X.X'VVX'VV.VX'V.'VVWX'VV'^'W'Wit This favourite and commodious HOTEL is conveniently Situated to the principal Railway Stations, Steamboat Landings, and the Parliament Buildings. It has ONE HUNDRED and TWENTY-FiVE WELL- VENTILATED BED-ROOMS besides spacious Public and Private Dining and Drawing Rooms. The house is heated throughout by steam, giving a comfortable temperature during the coldest weather ; and its fine site, overlooking Toronto Bay on Lake Ontario, renders it a very desir- able Summer resort. T£RIi([S :— $2.00 and $2.50 per day which includes room and attendance, with Full Board (Table d'Hote) from a Bill of Fare, compris- ing the best that the market affords. The Transfer Hotel Omnibus and Luggage Waggon, and the " Walker House" Porter, attend to the arrivals of alt Passenger Trains aad Steamboats. m % HEAVY, SHELF GEHERAL HARDWARE. RICE LEWIS & SOM, IRON, STEEL. WIRE. MANILLA ROPE. HARDWARE -AND- TORONTO. Mechanics and Carpenters' Tools, Builders', Foundry and Boat Supplies, Table and Pocket Cutlery, Plated Forks and Spoons, ■1* PATENT THREE ROLLER MANGLES, A FULL and WELL ASSORTED STOCK OF HARDWARE. W. A. MMAMBMAW. 9 %Z East Market Square, Toronto, GROCER AND SHIP CHANDLER, \NCHORS, CHAINS, ROPE, BLOCKS, OAKUM, PAINTS and OILS. Camping Parties^ Outfits. SOLICITED ORDERS PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. vt JOHN MALLON & CO.. Nos. 12 to 16 ST. LAWRENCE MARKET, TORONTO. FAMILY BUTCHERS J HAVE ALWAYS ON HAND MESS BEEF-CHOICEST BRANDS, IN CAB LOTS OE SMALLEB aUANTITIES. ESTABLISHED 1865. HEAD OFFICE & STABLES,— 11, 13, 16, 17 & 19 Mercer St. Telephone No., 979. BRANCH,— 11 & 13 Queen St. East. Telephone No., 933. Visitors and Tourists will study their own interest by send- infiT all orders to us, and insure good turnouts at Tariff Bates. EzcurUonists can order cabs by telephone from the "Chicora" Office. Highest Reference. Offices Never Closed. GEO. VERRAL, Proprietor. f iH ■m •v^ ID. IP I ICE, MAMUFACTUBHR OF TENTS, AWNINGS, FLAGS, Horse and Waggon Oovera, Life Preservers, Waterproof Bags, Lawn and Canvas Hammocks. TEliTTS TO le^EIsTT, AND DIFFERENT GRADES OF CANVAS ALWAYS ON HAND. Special attention given to the requirements of Hunting and Fishing Cainpindf Parties. Tents for Sportsmen, or Compartment Tents fcr^ Families. ndence by mail promptly an^were Lists forwarded on application. All correspondence by mail promptly answered and Price -• - Bd ■ ■ Dm PIKE^ 157 King St. East, Toronto, Ont. MILLMAN & CO., (Late NOTMAN & FRASEB.) 41 KING STREET EAST, TORONTO. Messrs. Millman & Co., have refitted the Studio through- out, and adopted all the newest improvements, mal ing it the finest Photographic establishment in Canada, and although doing a superior class of work, their prices are low. All the negatives of the late firm have been preserved. Fine Oi] Just reciivixl a oc I .2 •d o 5 o to a pq bo CAMPB TORO] « ( Gra Leave hy by boat. Toronto good three ret\irn by t Steamv'?! o'clock a, ij G. T. R. WM. ED ▼1 J:=i^>L IMl'O'.^TER or- Fine G11118, FIsliinK Ta/t^kle, Camping InoodH, Ai\ Just reoiived a splpndkl oHsortmenl o{ IN.In and Tattklc; al^o a complete lint of Dahc Ball BupiilicH. (luiis mill teritf'riiited. Price list free. W. McDOWALL, 67 KiNO St. East, Toront o. BlIBilNGTONi EEilCH, ONTABIO. ■S 1^ •d a bfi d ■M 03 O pq bo a a6 O :i OQ O o 12; bo 9 n O P 09 o p ct- CD ^ 5 c o B OQ W o d CAMPBELL &. HILL, • ... . . . Proprietors. TORONTO, HAMILTON akd OAKVILLE. STEA.MER " SOUTHERN BELLE," -AND- Grand Trunk Railway. Leave by boat and return by any train, or leave by train and return h^ boat. Toronto to Hamilton and return, or we verm, good one day, $1.25; good three days, $1.£0; Saturday excursion good by boat Saturday to return by train on Monday a.m., $1.00 ; single faro by steamer, 75c. Steainer will leave Mowat's Wharf daily (weather permitting) at 11 o'clock a.m., and 5.30 p.m. For departure and arrival of traius seo G. T. R. time-table. Season trip tickets and bi-weekly excursions. WM. EDGAR, G.T.Ii. A. & €r. KEITH, Str. ''Smiihern Belle.'\ ,:, ■W.A.TOI3:m3B- ,kn • 'X3I^3\j:03SriDB. Ill n ■ JAMBS B. ELLIS & CO.,, BY APPOINl^KNt ^ * Official, Government, Railway and Citg Timekeepers, "^ \ IMPORTKRS AND MANUFAi TUREttS OF FINE GOLD WATCHES, JEVELLEUT, Sterling Silver and Plated Ware, Diamonds, French Olooka and Bronzes, Split Seconds and Kepeating Watches. LARGEST STOCK IN THE PROVINCE. LOWEST PRICES ALL GOODS GUARANTEED. Ko. 1 KIIVCi; STREET EAST, TOR Sail It Sta'"'' / 'iiJt,'. Marie "'. Matthews. Northrup A Co., Art-Printiny Works,Bujfah,N.Y »*■ L.fftpigon Jtnk rith ( < . / .Chnplvao fT^ — - — 4, Pi «'OtlWl ^>-. C>.i:;i> Maria ''.V .'■,M«rio ''•;*, rvrt'"'* ^' )CMS M./^ * \ Pf%rr^ So Pai C.Hurd r — ^ — » ^\ ^°° \ s Matthews, Northrup & Co., Att-Prinifng Worki,Bufato,N.Y r-i— ^^"^ -^j. c ct for ^icAHOiisr*. T8Mt»* »" London ■^•""O ^ •"-If! 111 I Vjn^JI'^ I ^ " mil V'l'll-'^" in**'*~ - ~--'J- J /O^"""'"'"'"'^ ^ I St.Thonnas ->?m.HamHton^.vt» : */ -^^^^^S— yv>L.-wistoTr^-^ROCHESTE^ V if u X-i^r f When handing in his adv^i^tising copy this week Plarry Linney i?^j miiided ns that it is thirty- oiie^ years ago next month sinc^ he eM tered ithe Herald oflice to learn tm^ noble and learned art of prii^^p Although in the insura;\^^^bii|H= ness for twenty years, Mr. liinney i has always retained his connection with newspaper life, and his news- paper piiblioity of the Muskoka Lakes is a most valuable asset to this district. For fifteen years he li&s reported the social and per- TJ spnal life of the lakes to daily papers at Buffalo, Pittsburg, Cleveland, Detroit and Toronto, which during the summer months has kept Muskoka before the vis- iting public, besides contributing , to the local papers his weekly bud- get of lake news. In this con- nection it might be stated that Mr. , Linney has for some years been preparing material for a History ; ai Muskoka and expects some day I to have such work published. He '[ ]>rossesse the natural ability as a ' writer and in his insurance work has every opportunity to gather the necessary information, no eit- SE izen of Muskoka having a wider acquaintance with all the town- ships and the early settlers. ^ laH^S d.iN »-;<- X AND COUCHICHING, ITOULIN CHANNEL, LAKE SUPERIOR. 'Sr- HOTELS— CAMPING S"G -DISTANCES EL. \ND ILLUSTRATIONS. Nirf t,^ I V f «■•' %. • I Km AND, TORONTO. 5!;otattta: HITNTER. ROSE tS^^ CO., PRINTERS. /$^(> ' L i^i! f bo' THE orl^prp iSfe OF 1^31^65 -NiCSaKcadi®. THE NIAGARA RIVER AND TORONTO, LAKES SIMCOE AND COUCHICHING, ^hc Jakts of ^uskoka, THE GEORGIAN BAY, GREAT MANITOULIN CHANNEL, MACKINAC, SAULT STE. MARIE, LAKE SUPERIOR. A GUIDE TO THE BEST SrOTS FOR WATERSIDE RESORTS-HOTELS-CAMPING OUTFIT, FISHING AND SHOOTING -DISTANCl^S AND COST OF TRAVEL. WITH SECTIONAL MAPS OF THE LAKES AND ILLUSTRATIONS. EDITED BY BARLOW CUMBERLAND. TORONTO. 3r0tottto : HUNTER, ROSE iV CO., PRINTERS. /'S9(> ' r^ ^■ -<^*.. TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 13 The little map which here appears, gives a list of all the places which should be visited, and aided by it, the visitor can easily find his way about. Passengers via Niagara take the Michigan Central R.R. (late C.S.R.) The depot is near the Clifton House, on the Canadian side. Passengers via Leivistofiy on the American side, take New York Central R.R. The depot is marked " 8 " on the plan. POINTS OP INTEREST AT THE PALLS. The expense of visiting Niagara Falls, other than the amount paid for travelling, depends entirely upon the habits or fancy of the visitor. The cost of seeing the place is now nothing, A tariff has been arranged for cabs, and good bargains can often be made by those who wish to drive. There are numerous restaurants where good meals can be obtained at reasonable rates, and hotels exist of every variety, from $i to $4 per day. No doubt the old pastime of staying at the Falls, instead of hurrying away from them, will once more return, now that the expenses of seeing the place can be applied to paying the hotel bill, or, perhaps, in purchasing some memento of the visit. In this latter respect, don't fail to see " Libbie and Katie." 14 '^! f' THE NORTffEBN LAKES OF CANADA. ON THE CANADIAN SIDE. On the Canadian side, upon the edge of the new park and on the verge of the cliff with its spacious verandahs facing the American Falls, stands the Clifton House. The pillars of the verandahs may be noted as being UUiM^ ' -JfSBHHHnBBHI formed each from the single trunk ot so many giant pines. In earlier davs whole part of these magni- ficent trees covered the adjacent shores and on not a few of the porticos of thf^ more important resi- dences will similar use be seen to have been made of their convenient form. THE CLIFTON HOUSE. PRINCIPAL HOTELS AT NIAGARA FALLS. i!- Cataract House American side Capacity International Hotel... i( (( Spencer House Niagara House Pacific Hotel Goat Island Hotel . . . Hotel Kaltenbach Rapids House Temperance House.. Clifton House Canadian side Prospect House " Brunswick House. ... " Hobinson House .... <( (( (( (( (( (( i( 750 626 176 100 80 60 60 40 40 250 100 100 40 ^THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 16 The Niagara River. Between the Falls and Lake Ontario. There are two routes by which the visitor can travel between Buffalo, Niagara Falls and Toronto. The one on the American side of the River, by the New York Central R, R,^ to Lewiston, the other on the Canadian side, (see page 27), by the Michigan Central R. R., to Niagara-on-the-Lake. ALONG THE AMERICAN SIDE. The New York Ce!-- tral skirts the shores of the River on the Ameri- can side, and just after passing the Suspension Bridge Station curves sharply round and leav- ing the level open land dips into and runs along a shelf or ledge which has been boldly cut out from the face of the mighty cleft through which the River runs downwards to the lake. On the one side the cars hug close to the towering clifif, on the other, far down below, over the debris and the blocks of tossed and shattered rocks the waters are seen swirling along in the tumultuous foamings of the Whirl^^ool Rapids. The train is in the very gorge itself; a glimpse is caught of the sullen solemn whirlpool where the mighty flood arrested for a time in its downward rush slowly circles around, chafing and grinding against the confining barriers ; suddenly it reaches the long sought for outlet and springing anew into re-invig' MAP NIAGARA EIVEB. ■:| I 1 ,1.1 16 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, I oured life, dashes the beads of foam from its exultant waves high into the air, and gleefully resumes its onward rapid course. Now slipping through tunnels under the projecting cliffs, now sweeping in curves around the jutting headlands nnd givincr distant vistas up and down the stream and of the glorious v'ew over the border- land towards the lake, the train gradually ap- proaches the wa- ters' surface ; the broken remains of the Queenstown Suspension Bridge come into view, and high above, the monument to BrocL Lewiston, the head of naviga- tion, is seven miles from the Falls, and the visitor walks from the railway to the deck of the Ni- agara Company's steamer waiting for him at the dock. Great care is always taken along this portion of the railway,and, never has any accident occurred. The steamer turns in the eddy of fiC.V.'l'.'.'- ■ THE NEW YORK CENTRAL IN THE GORGE. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 17 he rapids which close just a little above the dock. On the opposite shore is Queenston and the scene of the battle of Queenston Heights. The first point below the town is Vrooman's Point, and now for another seven miles the river winds in many curves between high and wooded banks, along the edge of which are seen comfort- able mansions set in the midst of the peach orchards, which have made the district a very fruit garden ; three miles from the mouth is Three mile run where the Canadians crossed to attack Fort Niagara, and at the mouth itself are the American village of Youngstown, and on the opposite shore Niagara-on-the Lake. Beyond them are seen the blue waters of Lake Ontario. The "Gorge" of Niagara. By the Duke of Argyll. " A very curious question, and one of great scientific interest arises out of the great difference between the course of the Niagara River above and below the Falls. It has in my opinion, been much too readily assumed by geologists that rivers have excavated the valleys in which they run. The cutting power of water is very great, but it varies in proportion to the liability of floods, and the wearing power of stones that may be carried along : much also depends on the posi- tion of the rocks over which a river runs. If the stratification pre- sent edges which are easily attacked or undermined, even a gentle stream may cut rapidly for itself a deeper bed. On the other hand when the rocks do not expose any surfaces which are easily assail- able a very large body of water may run over them for ages without being able to scoop out more than a few feet or even a few inches. Accordingly such is actually the case with the Niagara River in the upper part of its course from Lake Erie to the Falls. In all the ages during which it has run in that course for fifteen miles it has not been able to remove more than a few feet of soil or rock. The country is level, and the banks are very low, so low that in looking :" I n 18 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. h up the bed of the stream the more distant trees on either bank seem to rise out of the water. I I THE PRECIPICE AT THE HORSE-SHOE FALLS. But suddenly in the middle of the comparatively level country the river encounters a precipice, and thence forward for seven miles runs through a profound cleft or ravine the bottom of which is not less than 300 feet below the general level of the country. How came that precipice to be there ? This would be no puzzle at all if the precipice were joined with a sudden change in the gen- eral level of the country on either side of the river — and there is THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 19 such a change — but it is not at t' ^ Falls. It is seven miles further on. At the Falls there is no depression in the general level of the banks. Indeed, on the Canadian shore, the land rises very considerably just above the Falls. On the American shore it continues at the same elevation. The whole country here, however, is a table-land, and that table-land has a termination — an edge — over which the river must fall before it can reach Lake Ontario. But that edge does not run across the country at Niagara Falls, but along a line much nearer to Lake Ontario, where it is a conspicu- ous feature in the landscape, and is called Queenston Heights. The natural place, therefore, so to speak, for the Falls would have been where the river came to that edge, and from that point the river has all the appearance of having cut its way backward in the course- of time. Sir Charles Lyell, the eminent geologist, came to the conclusion, from comparison of the rate at which the cutting back had been ob- servable within the memory of man, that this cutting back is about one foot in each year. At this rate the river would have taken 35,- 000 years to effect its retreat from Queenston to the present position of the Falls. This is but a very short fathom-line to throw out into the abysmal depths of geological time, and making every allowance for the pos- sibility of any differences in rate, according to variations of tempera- ture or configuration, the principle of the calculation seems to be a sound one. The strata or layers of rock which compose the geological forma- tion can readily be seen in the gorge of the river, and the process by which the cataract has eaten its way back from Queenston can be readily perceived. At the level of the brink of the Falls, where the waters make their final plunge, are thick, regular and flat layers of limestone rock. Above and below these is soft soluble shale. The running water wearing away the upper deposits makes the inequalities which cause the rapids above the Falls, and the reverberation and splash of the torrent as it falls, have disintegrated and washed out the t ! 11! ■: ' ! I ! r r m h,;! I ■l! 1 1'. I' 20 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, THK *' liEDOB " PROM THE AMERICAN SIDE. to the which a the the si — mains ■^r Niaga THE NORTHERN LAKES OF OANAD L 21 soft red shale below, so that the limestone ledge is left in over, hanging masses until they break off with their own weight, and piece after piece dropping into the depths beneath, the Falls continue their ceaseless march commenced so many centuries ago. This deep groove does seem to be a clear case of a ravine produc- ed by a known cause which can be seen now in actual operation. As far as I could see, there is nothing to indicate that the ravine is due to a " fault " or a crack arising from subterranean disturbance, but the work has been done by the process which has been described, and 35,000 years is, after all, but an insignificant fraction of what has been occupied in the operations of geological dme." Queenston Heights— where the Falls once were. If the Cataract of Niagara had continued to be where it once was, it would have given additional splendour to one of the most beautiful landscapes of the world. Instead of falling, as it now does, into a narrow chasm, where it cannot be seen a few yards from either bank, it would have poured its magnificent torrent over a higher range of cliflf, and would have shone for hundreds of miles over land and sea. The steep line of heights above Queenston form the termination or escarpement of the comparatively high table-land of the upper Lakes. On the summit of the ridge has been erected Brock's Monument. This magnificent structure was erected by his grateful countrymen, to the memory of the brave General, who gallantly fell in the action which took place here on the 13 th of October, 181 2. The spot near a thorn bush, where he received his death wound, is further down the side of the hill, and marked by a monumental stone. The re- mains of the General, which had been interred in Fort George, at Niagara, together with those of his faithful aide camp^ Lt-Col. John f i! '■ Ml It THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. McDonell, were in 1824 removed and placed beneath the first monu- ment at that time erected. This having in 1840 been seriously damaged with explosives by a vandal named Lett, public sentiment was aroused and by a spontaneous movement, the necessary sum was immediately raised for the present unique structure. The previous monument was erected by a grant from the Parlia- ment of the Province, this one, from the voluntary contributions of the Militia and Indian warriors of the country. On the 13th of October, 1853, the remains of the revered dead were again removed, to be placed where they now lie in massive stone sarcophogi beneath the column. To gather some idea of the fervour which has raised so distin- guished a memorial, we may quote from the speeches made on the spotj where twenty-eight years after his death it was determined that this second memorial should be raised. Speaking to the assembly some 8,000 in number, which had come enthusiastically from all parts of the province, Mr. Justice Macaulay^ who had served under Brock, said, " Looking at the animated mass covering these sacred heights in 1840, to do honour for a war in 1812, now old in history, one is prompted to ask, * How comes it that the gallant General has left so lasting an impression in the hearts of his countrymen, how comes it that the fame of Brock thus floats down the stream of time, broad, deep and fresh as the waters of the famed river with whose waves it might be almost said his life's blood mingled ? In reply, we might dwell on his civil and military virtues, his patriotic se!f-devotion, his chivalrous gallantry and his triumphant achievements. Still, there was more that gave him talismanic influence and ascen- dancy over his fellow men, and which he wielded for his country's good. His was the mind instinctively to conceive and promptly to dare — incredible things to feeble hearts. With skill and bearing he infused his chivalrous and enterprising spirit into all his followers and impelled them to realize whatever he Doldly led the way to accom- plish." Sir John Beverley Robinson^ then the venerable Chief Justice, but whO; as a young man had fought with distinction alongside the de- 2BE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. ceased General, on the fatal, yet, glorious day, so long before, gave his testimony. " It has been sometimes objected, that General Brock's cour- age was greater than his prudence, that his attack on Detroit, though it succeeded, was most likely to have failed, and that a similar rashness was displayed in the manner of his death. Those who lived here while these events were passing, can form a truer judgment ; they know that what to some may seem rashness, was, in fact prudence, unless, indeed the defence of Canada was to be abandoned in the almost desperate circumstances in which. General Brock was placed. He had with him but a handful of men who had never been used to military discipline, few indeed who had seen ac- tual service, and he knew it must be some time before any reinforce- ment could be sent him. He felt, therefore, his cause was hopeless, unless he could impress this truth upon the enemy, that whenever a General with but a few gallant soldiers, and the brave defenders of the soil could be assembled against them, they must retire from the land which they had invaded. If he had begun to compare numbers and had reserved his small force, in order to make a safer effort on a future day, then would thousands of the people from the neighbour- ing States have been found pouring into this Province. True, he fell in discharging a duty which might have been committed to a subor- dinate hand. True, he might have reserved himself for a more de- liberate and stronger effort ; but he felt that hesitation might be ruin, that all depended upon his dauntless courage and self-devotion. It is true his gallant course was arrested by a fatal wound, such is the fortune of war, but the people of Canada did not feel that his pre- cious life was therefore thrown away, deeply as ihey deplored his fall. His was an inflexible integrity, an honesty of character, uncommon energy and decision, and above all, an entire devotion to his country. In short, I believe I shall best convey an impression of him, when I say that it would have required more courage to refuse to follow General Brock, than to go with him wherever he would lead." From these we can learn the estimate in which he was held. Long may this memorial remain to record the gallant deeds, and re- !!" ' !T 24 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. ■I';, !, I ii It ^1!. mind the youth of Canada ever to be ready to emulate his and their Fathers* valour in gallant defence of their happy native land. The Monument is of massive stone, in the base, entered by an oaken door, are two gal- leries on the north and south sides of which are the tombs of the illustrious dead. From the ground to the gallery at the top is a cir- cular staircase of cut stone with 235 steps, and the magnificent view of the surrounding country is obtained through the circular wreathed openings. From the exterior the column is of the Roman composite order, with a sculptured capital contaming figures of victory holding military shields. On the summit is a collossal statue of the Hero in military uniform, the left hand resting on the sword, the right hand extended with baton. The height from the ground is 190 feet, exceeding that of any other monumental column, either ancient or modern, with the single excep- tion of that of the Great Fire of London, which exceeds it by only twelve feet. On the exterior of the base are lions rampant, and on the side facing Queenston, the battle scene, in alto relievo. The grounds are well laid out, and on the gates are the arms of the Brock family. The caretaker's lodge is close by, and a small fee is charg' d for admission. Comparative heights of some principal monuments of the same kind, ancient and modern. FT. Trajans pillar, Rome 1150 Antonine column, Rome 123. Duke of York's column, London 137. Monument of Great Fire, London 202. Napoleon column. Paris 132. Vendome column, Paris 156. Alexander column, St. Petersburgh 176.6 Nelson's column, Trafalgar Square, London 171. II 1 1 ,1 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. The View from the Summit. Having clambered to the summit of the heights, and ascended to the top of the monument, a scene is met with, than which, few others le same in America leave such an impression on the mind. It is altogether 26 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Ml" I, '.I, V I lil iHil! ! ';■■• peculiar, unlike anything in the Old World, and such as few spots can command in the New. One great glory of the American continent is its Lakes and rivers. But they are generally too large to make much impression on the eye. The rivers are often so broad as to look like lakes without their picturesqueness, and the lakes are so large as to look like the Sea, but without so great grandeur. Another great glory of America, is its vast breadths of habitable surface. But these again, are also so vast that there are few spots indeed, whence they can be seen and estimated. But from the heights of Queenston, both these great features are spread out before the eye after a manner in which they can be taken in. The steep bank below is covered with i/iaja occi- dentalis commonly called the cedar. Looking to the north-east, the horizon is occupied by the blue waters of Lake Ontario, which form the sky-line. But on either hand, the shores can be seen bending rour '" the Lake to an illimitable distance, and losing themselves in fadirjfj tints of blue. To the left, turning towards the north-west, the fair i rovince of Ontario stretches in immense plains and escarpe- ments of the same tableland. The whole of this immense extent of country has the aspect of a land comfortably settled, widely cultivated and beautifully clothed with trees. Towns and villages are indicated by little spots of gleam- ing white, by smoke, and a few church spires. On the Canadian shore, and forty miles away over the deep Lake, the City of Toronto is sometimes distinctly visible, when the atmo- sphere is clear, the elevation of the height overcoming the inter- vening dij> ance. At our feet the magnificent river of the Niagara emerges from its ravine, into the open sunlight of the plains, and winds slowly in long reaches of lonely green, and round a succession of low-wooded capes into the vast waters of Ontario. The contrast is very striking between the perfect restfulness of the current here, and the tormented violence of its course at the Falls, and the Rapids. The vide landscape seen from Brock's monument along the shores of Lake Ontario, on both sides of the liver as far as the eye can reach, exhibits throughout the same characteristic features. r r I : few spots and rivers, on on the ;s without >k like the f America, ire also so i seen and lese great ^hich they //laja occi- least, the hich form n bending nselves in -west, the escarpe- >ect of a ' clothed 3f gleam- ep Lake, he atmo- le inter- Niagara ins, and ccession contrast nt here, Rapids. J shores ;ye can 'JL' jEaL JtLi R ANADIAN P ACIFIC I I I I I S THE TRUE TranscontinentalR^ S THE TRUE Sportsman's Route, S THE TRUE TourisfsRoute, S THE TRUE [nvali£s^oute. S THE TRUE • Scenic Route. t^^end for a Guide of this truly wonderful line, W. R. CALLAWAY, Dlst. Pass. Agt, 110 King St. West, TORONTO, ONT. W. C VAN HORME, GEO. OLDS, D. McNIGOLL, Vice-President. OenU Traffic Manager. GeaH Pasi. Agent. MONTREAL. \finw I ir ' iji M w i; !!l'' 11^ y THE ONLY STEAMERS ON INSIDE ROUTE TO :BJ^TiTVir SOTJIsTlD PARRY SOUKD NAVIGATION CO. STEAMERS "MAXWELL" AND "CHICOUTIMI," Connecting with Northern and North- Western Raih-oad. Leave Midland and Penetang on arrival of inornfn(ir tndns from Toronto. Returning, Leave Parry Sound 6 a.ni. daily, eccepi Sunday. THROUGH ALL THE ISLANDS BY DAYLIGHT. For Bates and Tickets apply to adl Agents N. & N.-W. R. R., and Barlow Cumberland, John Pearse, 85 Tonge Street, Toronto. Mam^er, Parry Harbor. PBllVBTANOriSHfiNf:, Thia New Hotel favourably situated, facing the waters of the Bay, is cool, airy and well proportioned. A PLEASANT SUMMER RESIDENCE. Tebhs :— $1.00 to $1.50 per day, according to location. Special Bates for Summer Kesidents. q(. cow AM, - - - Proprietor. NOETE AlCEBICAir BOTSL, BRAOBBRIDGB, MUSKOKA. J. AVERir, - Proprietor. Every attention to Tourists and Pleasure Seekers Superior Accommodation to the General Public I r < • I 'M\, »rry Harbor. I^UNTBI^, FJOSB § (§0. 7 P>K/IlsrTEK.S, BLANK BOOK M;OtNUF;OtCTURERS. ELEOTEOTTPEES AND STEEEOTYPEES, 25 Wellington Street West, TORONTO. NIAGARA FALfiS, NIAGAEA FALLS, iTB"V7- "sroaa^ 33T.e-W TTOSaiK. CATARACT HOUSE. INTEfiNATIONAL BOTEL, ADJOINING THE NATIONAL Spacious Parlours oyerlooMog PARK. the Rapids. Broad Piazzas and Fine CURRENT BATHS. Shade Trees. THE LEADING HOTEL. ALL MODERN EQlTIPMENTS. WHITNEY & JERRAULD, GLUCK, WARE * DELANO, PROPRIETOF?S. PROPRIETORS. s 1'' H < h •' ill ' ■Hi ; 1 '11 .. ■ji: li ;i : Ml;!-, ; ;;/! I < ( I 1 I \ INDIA RUBBER GOODS OF EVEEY DESOEIPnON. ■:o:- The Largest and Only Complete £tock in tlie Dominion, COMPRISING THE FOLLOWING: Rubber Sportsman's Boots. Knee Boots. Fishing Stockings. Wading Pants and Boots combined. Gun Covers. Air Pillows and Air Beds Life Preservers (the latest invention). Water Bottles. Gas Bags. Nursery Sheeting. Clothing (of all kinds.) Horse Covers and Waggon Aprons. Gloves (the greatest in- vention of the age, price only $1.50 per pair. «t t< Rubber Mats. ** Syringes. Bands and Rings. Hat and Caps. Leggings. Ladies' Gossamer Circulars and Cloaks, from the very cheapest to the very besi;. Rtibber Ice Bags. Cotton and Linen Hose. Packing (all kiuds). Lawn Hose (over 75,000 feet io stock). Car and WagKon Springs Gaskets and Rings, Valves. Buckets and Pails. Wringer Rolls. RUBBER BELTING, PACKING AND HOSE. RUBBER, COTTON AND LINEN HOSE. Ck> to the grea Rubber Warehouse for genuine goods such as are sold by an exclusive Rubber Store. THE TORONTO RUBBER COMPANY, AGENTS FOR HE €UnA PERCHA AND RUBBER MFC. COY. WAREHOUSE : {MANHING ARCADE) - KING STREET WEST, Ton ONTO. They wildnes! wealth. Peac( Th The] Rock c « Falls station, and the Suspens and the alongsid under ai Far belc of fruit District out agai level th groves s Alonj Compai the seat first Pai a place breezes kept in Torontc for eno THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 27 They are features eminently picturesque, combining the aspects of wildness with the impression of exuberant fertility, and of boundless wealth. Peaceful may they ever both remain. The Niagara River, aiong tlie Canadian Side. The Michigan Central R. R., after crossing the river near Black Rock on the International Bridge, skirts the bank, and passing ** Falls View" as previously described, reaches the Niagara Falls station, within a stone's throw of the Clifton House, Wesley Park and the river banks. Two miles nearer Lake Ontario is Clifton or Suspension Bridge, where are the suspension and cantilever bridges and the junction with the Erie R. R. Soon the track, after running alongside the Grand Trunk R. R. for a few miles, dips suddenly under and, emerging, begins to wind slowly down the mountain side. Far below lie, laid out before the eye, the fertile and well tilled farms of fruit and grain, orchards and sheep-dotted pastuies of the "Garden District of Canada ;" above, upon the summit ridge, boldly stands out against the sky Brock's Monument. Having reached the lower level the train runs through a succession of vineyards and peach groves and gains the river at NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE. Alongside the dock are the steamers of the Niagara Navigation Company. This old town, in early days called Newark^ was once the seat of Government and the Capital of Upper Canada whose first Parliament used to here hold its sittings. Now it is principally a place of summer resort. Upon the bluff headland facing the fresh breezes of the Lake is the " Queen's Royal Hotel," a first-class h ' ase kept in first-class style, by the proprietors of the " Queen's Hotel," Toronto. A capital beach for bathing, unlimited fishing — celebrated for enormous " bass," — good boating, excellent roads and pleasant Yi '• wmmmmmsfi*' fj! ' m 28 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. THB queen's royal HOTEL. drives in a surrounding d.'strict of romantic and historic interest make a stay at " Niagara-on-the-Lake" most enjoyable. The Satur- day evening " Hops" at the hotel are largely patronized by the resi- dent American and Canadian Garrisons and the squadrons of the TEJS NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 29 w' " Royal Canadian" and " Toronto" Yacht Clubs are constant visitors. Many visitors from the Southern States spend their summer here and the Canadian Chatauqua holds its meetings in a large pavilion not far from the hotel There are many pleasant private residences in the town, and the steamers of the Navigation Company keeping up a swift and constant service the " Society" of Toronto moves oul en masse during the sum- mer, so that Niagara- on-the- Lake has become almost a suburb of that city. On the opposite bank of the river is Yotmgsfown, with pleasant groves for picnicers and the headquarters and rifle ranges of the American forces of the Bufialo District, whose barracks are in the white- walled Fori Niagara. The Battle ol '' Queenston Heights.'' The surroundings of Niagara teem with historic reminiscences. Here sat the first Parliament of Canada, meeting in primitive sim- plicity beneath the shade of a spreading oak. Here were the headquarters of the garrison, and gallant soldier courted pretty maid in the festive days of the Capital of Upper Canada. But there were more stirring scenes than these, and deeds of valour took the place of sports of love. Among the renowned of the many strifes along the River was the battle of Queenston Heights — fought on the 13th of October, 1812. The two countries had drifted into war ; and on the morning of the nth the Americans assembled a strong force at Lewiston, under General Rensselaer, with a view of malJng an attack upon Queen- ston. In addition to 800 men in garrison at Fort Niagara, there were 5,300 men under his command along the banks of the river. The Canadian force on the Western bank consisted of 1500 men, includ- ing Indians. Early on the morning of Tuesday, the 13th, their troops put off in thirteen boats and boldly crossed the rapid river, covered by a battery of two 18, two 6 -pounders, and two field pieces, which they had placed on the high bank to the left of where the hotel now I' 30 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 111 Stands completely commanding every part of the opposite shore from which a landing could be effectually opposed. The Canadian bat- teries were one i8-pounder, high up on the Queenston Heights, and another 24-pound carronade, placed a little below the village, at Vroo- man's Point. Three of the boats put back, while the remaining ten struck the shore a little above the village, and then returned for more troops. The Canadian force in Queenston consisted of two compan- ies of the 49th Regiment and the "York Volunteer Militia" — altogether about 300 men. These, under Captain Dennis, advanced with a 3pounder against the first division of the enemy under Colonel Van Rensselaer, who had formed his men near the river and was awaiting the arrival of the next boats. The Americans were driven with some loss behind a steep bank close to the water's edge, where they were reinforced with a fresh supply of troops, and returned the fire of the Canadians, who, stationed on the brow of the hill, fired down upon them. A turn now took place in the course of the battle, for a strong detachment of the Americans, under Cap- tain Wool, passing unper- ceived around a point of the river, ascended the rocks by a path which had been considered impass- able, and gaining the crest of the Heights thus took the 18-pounder battery in rear. Captain Dennis was now compelled, with con. siderable loss, to ret re to the village. Meantime Sir Isaac Brock, in Niagara, hear- ing the cannonade, and WHERE WOOL LANDED, THE NORTHERN LAKES^OF CANADA. 31 thinking that the attack at Queenston was only a feint to draw the garrison out of Fort George which was then to be attacked by the main body of the Americans, whom, he understood, were con- cealed in boats around the point on which Fort Niagara stands, determined to ride out himself and see how matters were before moving any of his troops. Arriving with his two aides-de-camp at Queenston, he found the Americans — who had in the interval been strongly reinforced, and were about i,ooo in number— in possession of the Heights. Orderr> were despatched to General Sheaflfe to bring up reinforcements from Fort George and to bombard Fort Niagara, which latter was done with such effect that its fire was silenced, and it was abandoned by its garrison. Although his available force numbered but 300, General Brock determined to retake the Heights, and, dismounting, charged at the head of his men. With impetuous rush, and despite the superior numbers, the hill was being carried I But now the gallant Brock, struck by a bullet in the breast, fell near a thorn-bush, which marks the spot, and giving his last order, " Push on the York Volunteers 1" lived only long enough to express the wish that his fall might not be made known to his men. Gal- lantly breasting the Height, his aide-de-camp, Lieutenant-Colonel Macdonell, the Attorney- General of the Province, next was mortally wounded when charging on up the hill and leading the York Volun- teers. The battery was retaken, the i8-pounder spiked, and the Americans driven back to the edge of the cliff. Here some of their officers, hoisting a handkerchief upon a bayonet, were about to sur- render, when Captain Wool valiantly tore it off, and, re-animating his men, opened a heavy fire. Inferior in numbers, their leaders fallen, and one-third of their men killed or wounded, the Canadians were now again compelled to retire, taking with them the body of the General, to the village of Queenston, there to await the expected assistance. The Americans remained in quiet possession of the Heights for some hours, during which they did not receive many reinforcements, the events of the morning which had gone on in full view before their 32 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. il'Ui: niiii' eyes, and the return to their side of many of the wounded causing, on the part of those who were left behind, a general disinclination to come across to the support of their comrades. General Sheaffe now arrived from Fort George with nearly 400 of the 41st Regiment, 300 Mililia, and 250 Indians, and leaving two field pieces in front of Queenston for its protection, marched off to the right by a circuitous route, and thus getting to the crest of the heights on which the Americans were posted, took them in flank. In numbers the two sides were about equal, and the courage of both un- questioned. The onset again commenced. The Indians, being more active in ascending the hill and passing through the woods, came first into contact, and, being repulsed, fell back on the main body, when the whole, advancing at the charge with a cheer, the Americans, after a short resistance, gave way and fled down the hill towards the landing place. Some who attempted to escape into the woods were driven back by the Indians, and many, cut off in their retreat, clinging to the bushes, went down the cliffs ; some, losing their hold, were dashed upon the rocks beneath; and many oihers, reaching the river, perished in their attempt to swim across. The boats had been dispersed, the boatmen, panic stricken, having disappeared so that all retreat was cut off. A flag of truce was now sent, and Brigadier Wadsworth and 950 men, surrendering unconditionally, were made prisoners. All this proved the good results of General Brock's impetuous dash, for had the Americans not been attacked as they were, their reinforcements would have poured across the river and from their far superior numbers would have been able to over run the frontier. The victory had been dearly gained by the loss of the General ; and a three days' armistice to bury their dead being asked by the Americans, it was agreed to. On the 15th General Brock was buried in one of the bastions of Fort George, with all military honours, and, v/ith much generosity, minute guns, from the American Fort Niagara which had been re- occupied by its garrison, were fired during his funeral •* as a mark of respect due to a brave enemy." I C-yX THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 33 Such was the befitting close of the action so gallantly fought on both sides, and on condition of the Americans destroying their boats, which they at once did, the armistice was indefinitely prolonged. The Niagara was freed from the invader's presence and Brock rests in memory "The Saviour of his Country." LrNES ON THE DEATH OF BROCK. As Fame alighted on the mountain's crest, She loudly blew her trumpet's blast ; Ere she repeated Victory's notes she cast A look around, and stopped : Of power bereft, Her boaom heaved, her breath she drew with pain — Her favourite Brock lay slaughtered on the plain ! Glory threw on his grave a laurel wreath, And Fame proclaims, " A Hero sleeps beneath." — Bruyeres. The Forts of Niagara. The Forts, as now existing, are: On the American side, I'ori Niagara, whose white walls tower over the meeting of the river and the lake ; on the Canadian side, Fori Missasaga^ whose decaying central tower peeps above the banks near the entrance of the river, and Fort George, whose bastions are barely recognizable in the grass- grown mounds into which their earthen walls have decayed, and crown the hill-tops just behind the steamboat landing. If for no other purpose, it would at least have been due to their historic past that these old monuments of gallant deeds should have been better cared for. It will be interesting to note how often the sites of these forti- fications have changed hands with the varying results of war. THE EARLY STRUGGLES. Happily these are times of peace ; and the shores of this historic river are now given over to pleasure-seekers and the placid tillers of . irt . ?u t/ » i>rfj|» ;- j. ft >a 1^ H TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. the soil. But in earlier days it was far different, and the mouth of the river, as commanding the best practicable route of transport between the East and West, was the scene of many a conflict. The Indians — Senecas, Onondagas, Iroquois, and Missasagas— fought with one another for its possession, and against them all came the invading whites. As mourned Tecumseh, — "The Great Spint gave The red men this wide continent as theirs, And in the East another to the white ; But, not content at home, these crossed the sea, And drove our fathers from their ancient seats. Their sons in turn are driven to the lakes, And cannot further go unless they drown." — Mair, THE FRENCH OCCUPATION. The French, having entered the St. Lawrence in 1534, had, by means of the connecting waters of the Ottawa, extended their alli- ances with the natives in the region of the upper waters of Lakes Huron and Superior. For many years this was their sole route to the North-west, and it was not until 1669 that the southern route by the Niagara River and Lake Erie was discovered ; and even then, as the shores were occupied by hostile tribes, they could not avail themselves of it. In 1684, the Northern tribes sent 500 of their warriors to the mouth of the Niagara River, there to meet the French forces, who, under Chevalier de la Barre, were to join them in occupying this, the central, point of their proposed new line of communication ; but being intercepted on their way at Frontenac (now Kingston), by the Senecas and Iroquois — who occu- pied the southern shores of Lake Ontario — the French were beaten and retired again to Montreal, and their northern allies were then forced to return unsuccessful to their own countries. In 1687 the French again advanced, and, having defeated the Senecas in a series of pitched battles — in which they were aided by the northern Indians from Mackinac — succeeded in erecting a wooden fort on the spot now occupied by the American Fort i THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 36 Niagara. Scarcely had the main army retired than the garrison, under de la Troye, were hemmed in by the Senecas ; and once more it passed into the hands of the Indians, but ten survivors of the whites escaping to tell the talc. It was again reoccurjed, and, from a small log blockhouse seen during his travels in 1721 by Pbre Charlevoix, the French, under Joncaire, were, in 1726, permitted by treaty with the Senecas to enlarge the fort by adding four bastions, and to erect a storehouse. Meantime, the British colonies had established themselves at Oswego ; and, the war between the British and French for the possession of the continent being in progress, Brigadier Prideaux was, in 1759, despatched with 2,500 men and 900 Indians, under Sir William Johnson, to capture Niagara. The account of the struggle is largely abridged from the excellent descrip- tion given by Parkman in " Wolfe and Montcalm." The fort had been strongly rebuilt in regular form by Captain Pouchot, of the battalion of Beam, and, being well supplied with munitions of war, was held by a garrison of 600, and assistance was expected from Detroit and the western French posts, under Aubrey. On the 7th July the fort was invested from the land, and the lake was patrolled by numerous armed boats. The siege was begun in regular form, and by the i3lh the British parallels had opened fire. The besieged contested every foot of the way, but their constant sallies were as constantly repulsed. On the 19th, the French schooner Iroquois attempted their relief, but was driven off by the British batteries, and the same night Prideaux was killed in the trenches while superintending the attack. The command devolved on Sir William Johnson, and in two or three weeks the fort was in extremity — the ramparts were breached, and many of the garrison slain. Pouchot watched anxiously for the promised succour ; and on the morning of the 24th a distant firing told him they were at hand. Aubrey and Ligneris had advanced to the rescue with 1,100 French and 1,200 Indians. To meet them, Johnson had been com- pelled to divide his forces into three separate bodies — one to guard the boats, one to guard the trenches, and one to fight Aubrey and s« THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. i'l. his band. This last body placed themselves in ambush, and awaited the onset. When Pouchot heard the firing, he went, with a wounded artillery officer, to the bastion next the river, and from here, by glimpses among trees and bushes, they desc.ied bodies of men now advancing and now retreating — Indians in rapid movement, and the smoke of guns, the sound of which reached their ears in heavy volleys, or a sharp, angry rattle. Meanwhile the British cannon had ceased their fire, and the silent trenches seemed deserted, as if their occupants were gone to meet the advancing foe. There was a call in the fort for volunteers to sally and destroy the works ; but no sooner did they show themselves along the covered way than the seemingly abandoned trenches were thronged w'th men and bayonets, and the attempt was given up. The distant firing ceased, and Pouchot re- mained in suspense. An Indian who had renv^trated the lines told him that his friends had been defeated ; but Pouchot would not believe him. In the afternoon, after a furious cannonade on both sides, a trum- pet sounded from the trenches, and an officer approached the fort, announcing the defeat, and with a summons to surrender. Still Pouchot would not believe, but, sending an officer of his own to the British camp, unanswierable proof was obtained ; for there sat Ligneris, severely wounded, together with Aubrey and many others— nearly all the French officers, in their desperate efforts to retrieve the day, having been either killed or captured. An honourable capitu- lation was granted ; and, in acknowledgment of their gallant defence, the garrison were allowed to march out with ail the honours of war, and then lay down their arms upon the shores of the lake. THE BRITISH OCCUPATION. So passed away the power of the French in this district, for so great were the results of this victory that all their western posts, as far as Erie, surrendered v/ithout a struggle; and in 1763, by the Treaty of Paris, the whole of Canada and all the French possessions east of the Mississippi were ceded to the British crown. TEM NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 37 For a long time the whole of the surrounding country was occu- pied solely by Indian tribes, so that during the war of 1776, although a small military post was maintained at Niagara by the British, no strife disturbed its quietude. By the treaty of peace of 1783, the east bank of the river was transferred to the United States, but Fort Niagara still continued to be held by a strong British garrison. A settlement of U. E. Loyalists was now begun, and Paul Camp- bell, writing in 1791 of his visit there, says: " Opposite the fort of Niagara, on a large flat point on the Canadian side of the river, is a town lined out, and lots given gratis to such as will undertake to build on it agreeably to a plan laid down by Government, which, to me, seems to be a good one ; half an acre is allotted for the stance of each house and garden, and eight acres at a distance for enclosures, besides a large commonty reserved for the use of the town. Several pec- le have taken lots here already, and no doubt, as the country advances in population so will the town in building. In the event of the fort on the opposite (American) side u jmg given up, it is said there is one to be erected on this side, and the ground is already marked out for this purpose." This town was Newark^ afterwards changed to its present name of Niagara, and the fort was Fori George^ which was constructed in 1792 — the following year — in such position that it should command Fort Niagara, the an- chorage for shipping along the banks of the river, and the harbour within its mouth. Fort Missasaga was subse- quently constructed to THE REMAINS OF FORT GEORGE. command the Cana- dian side of the mouth of the river, and any attacks which might be made from that quarter. '' 38 THE NOBTEEBN LAKES OF CANADA. it I: li Disturbances were threatening among the Indians of the west, and a council was called at Fort Niagara between their chiefs and representatives of the United States and Canadian Governments. Accordingly, in May, 1793, there arriv:-d Benjamin Lincoln, Henry Randolph, and Timothy Pickering, the United States Commissioners. They were cordially received, and lodged in the fort. While await- ing the arrival of the delegates from the distant Indian tribes, it happened that, on the 24th of June, the birthday of King George of England was celebrated. Governor Simcoe gave an entertainment, ending with a ball in the evening. Thus it came about that the Commissioners, somewhat amusedly, found themselves guests cele- brating a Royal gala day, with a Royal salute fired by a British gar- rison from a fortress on United States soil. It is further said, that the meetings of the first Parliament of the Province of Upper Canada, which was summoned here in 1792. were held within the precincts of Fort Niagara. Governor Simcoe, when, in that year, he first came to Canada supposed that the Government would still retain the possession of the fort, but he had his misgivings ; and beginning to cast his eye about for another capital, which would not be " under the guns of an enemy's fort," selected the harbour on the north shore, then called Toronto, and occupied only by two families of Missasaga Indians — the French settlement at Fort Rouille having been abandoned by the French one hundred and fifty years before. In 1795 ^^^ Duke de Liancourt visited Newark, and, telling of his stay at the humble wooden residence of Governor Simcoe, to which the sentries came daily from the fort across the river, says : "With very obliging politeness the Governor conducted me over the fort, which he is very loth to visit as he is sure he will be obliged to deliver it up to the Americans." Thirty artillerymen and eight companies of the Fifth Regiment then formed the g—rison. The seat of Government had, in 1793, been removed to Toronto, its name being changed to York ; and, under Jay's treaty, in 1794, the foft, together with those at Oswego, Detroit, Miami, and Michili- mackinac, were to be given up. At length, no less than twenty TEE NORTEEBN LAKES OF CANADA. 39 years after the Revolution, on the nth July, 1796, the last salute was fired to the red-cross flag as it was slow'y lowered from the flagstaff, and, the garrison and the guns being removed across the river to Fort George, Fort Niagara was finally handed over, and the stars and stripes floated peacefully above it until the war of 1812. THE AMERICANS TAKE FORT 'jEORGE. As previously mentioned, at the battle at Queenston Heights, in October, 181 2, Fort Niagara was so vigorously assailed by Fort George that its garrison had to evacuate and retire from it. Posses- sion was retaken upon the armistice, and again, in November, the two forts had an artillery duel which resulted in nothing but their mutual damage, without superior advantage to either. Matters re- mained quiet during the winter, but in the spring the Americans — collecting together a large number of ships and boats, and a force of soldiers and seamen — embarked in the early morning of the 27th May, 1 81 3, and, under cover of a fog, crept down the Canadian shore. The battery, which occupied the site of the present Fort Missasaga,and near the lighthouse, which was then on the point, was first attacked, and was silenced by the weight of superior artillery ; and after a gallant struggle the forlorn hope of I500 men forced a landing at a creek {about a mile to the west. The Canadians, on the level plain, were shot down by the fire from the ships, while the landing parties — being protected by the high, overhanging banks — effected their landing on the beach. Reinforced from the fleet, they advanced — 4,000 in number — upon Fort George, which General Vincent, be- ing satisfied that ihe victory of the Americans was complete, eva- cuated, having spiked the guns and blown up all of the magazines, and retired with the remnants of his force to St. David. The Americans remained in possession of Fort Geovge all through the summer, during which a series of engagements took place with the result that they were hemmed in on all sides, and their supplies cut off. At length, on r-^th December, 18 13, upon the advance of the Canadian forces, unoer Colonel Murray, they evacuated Fort George, having first set fire to all the houses in Newark, rendering »i iW!wm ' > " M iiLy " i ii {: U: 40 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. all the inhabitants — including the women and children — homeless and houseless in mid-winter. Murray's advance was so swift that the retreat was precipitate, so m-ich so that tents for 1,500 of the American garrison were left stand- ing, and the fort itself undamaged. 00 T-l > p— I THE CANADIANS RE-TAKE FORT NIAGARA. Aroused to avenge the burning of the town, Murray, under the com- mand of General Riall, on the night of the 1 8th December crossed the river, about three miles up, with 550 men, advancing stealthily at dawn, with bayonets fixed, and not a musket loaded lest by any chance an alarm might be given. The out- lying picquets were surprised, and bayoneted lO a man. Eushing Lc- ward, the walls were scaled with scaling-ladders, the interior gained, the main gate carried ; and after a gallant resistance by the garrison, of whom 65 were killed and 12 wounded, at 5.30 in the morning Fort Niagara was once more in British possession. The Ameri- can flag was sent as a trophy to the Governor-General at Montreal, and the Red-Cross floated again on both sides of the mouth of the river. Matters so continued until peace was declared, in February, 181 5, when once more Fort Niagara was gracefully given up ; and again, and in peace, the stars and stripes took the place of the red- cross Jack. w n H g O a o H O F- « O c ). '..IV.' '•tf'- ing the less and >o swift tate, so 3 of the "t stand- laged. FORT burning he com- he night ;sed the ip, with thily at and not r chance rhe out- led, and hing Li- ed with gained, i after a garrison, and 12 morning nore in Ameri- [ontreal, 1 of the ebruary, ip ; and the red- 42 TBE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, Thus had three nationalities — the French, the British, a.id the United States — been in successive possession of the fortifications that crowned this ancient point of land. Twice had British valour stormed the ramparts, and from each of the others had it in turn wrested their possession at the bayonet's point — each time again retiring in honour to cede them as an evi- dence of national good-will. The dismantled forts on the Canadian side, and the reverberating " sun -set gun " from the American fort, mark the continuance oi the era of better days, wherein all strife upon these so oft-disturbed and still so halK,wed shores has found an end ; and their guardians now are rivals only in the arts of peace. Lake Ontario. This lake, the last of the series before the St. Lawrence proper is reached, is i8o miles long, and 234 feet above the sea. At this point the breadth between Niagara and Toronto is 35 miles, and is crossed in about two hours. The passage across the lake, in the middle portion of which the steamer is for a short time out of sight of land, gives full advantage of the pure cool winds which in summer fan its surface, and make the crip over and back one of the most attractive routes for those going from the districts south or west of Buffalo, to or from Toronto, and a great resort for the citizens of the city itself. The palace steamer Chicora, of the Niagara Navigation Company, is the largest steamer on the lake, is built of iron and steel, and is of the strongest and most substantial character. Of regular ocean- going style — having been built on the Clyde, and crossed the Atlan- tic — she maintains exact regularity of service in all weathers ; and as old Boreas sometimes wakes up and develops a " snorter," it is well, therefore, to have a good bridge to carry one across. But these dis- plays are only fitful in their occurrence, calm weather being the average from June to September. In olden days the crossing used TEEINORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 43 to be made in from four to six hours, and communication — before the days of railways — was kept up the year round, the passengers being landed on the ice which fringed the shores. On the doors of the warehouses at Niagara are still to be seen the names of some of the old time vessels that occupied the route. The Chicora is 230 feet long, with two raking funnels, and a generally " rakish " appearance. The Entrance Saloon is laid with maple and walnut ; and a handsome circular staircase, with richly twisted railings, leads to the Deck Saloon, This unique apartment occupies the centre of the promenade deck, and is surrounded by windows giving a complete view and complete protection in rainy STEAMER CHICORA. weather. The Pro7nenade Deck extends the full length of the steamer, so that a walk of a mile is obtained without much difficulty. Seats and comfortable arm chairs are provided in abundance, so that every opportunity is afforded for making a pleasant trip. The Bar is sup- plied by the Company with the choicest brands, and in the Restaurant meals are supplied while crossing the lake. The Marine Double Oscillating Engines, built by the celebrated marine engineers, Messrs. Fawcett, Preston & Co., and the like of which are not in any other steamer on fresh water, are objects of much interest and admiration to visitors. 44 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. This steamer, leaving Toronto each week-day at 7 a.m. and 2 p.m., and Lewiston at 11 a.m. and 4.30 p.m., makes two trips each day, calling both ways at Niagara-on-the-Lake, and giving a pleasant outing on the open water of Lake Ontario, with the run of fourteen miles up and down the charming Niagara River. Direct connections are made, and through tickets issued in connection with all the Trunk Line Railways of the United States and Canada, and with the Royal Mail Line for the Thousand Islands and the Rapids of the St. Law- rence. Baggage requiring to pass Customs is examined by Customs officers on board the steamer while crossing the lake. (S^e Advt), THE IFLAND — TORONTO. When approaching To jnto from the southern shore, the light- bouse, on C'Waltar jFotnt — the extreme west point of the island which forms and protects Toronto harbour — will be the first object to come in view. The island has been formed by the sands washing from the lofty^Scarboro' Heights, which will be seen far away to the east. At one time it was possible to drive from the mainland along the Island, but ten years ago a breach was made at Ashbridge's Bay, which has. since enlarged, and a permanent opening has from that time existed. The form of the island is being constantly changed. The lighthouse, when first erected, was within a few feet of the water; now it is a considerable distance inland, the sand having been con- stantly deposited here and on the long spits forming the west side of the protection of the harbour. A large and increasing population of summer visitors from the city is in occupation of the many slight but pretty houses erected all along the shores. A plank walk follows the beach the whole circuit of the island, and a steam tramway will soon be in operation. Hanlan, the champion oarsman of the world, was born on this island, and the prominent building with high gables is his hotel, where can be seen the trophies of his prowess which he has won in all quarters of the globe. Bands play every evening in the summer in front of the hotel ; and roller-coasters and merry-go-rounds make this the Coney Island of Torontonians. Ferries run to all parts of the island every few minutes. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 46 The Exhibition Buildings attract the eye to the west, on the main- land, the white buildings in front of them, and close to the shore, are the barracks of the Neiu Fort. Near here the American forces landed in 1813, and, after meeting with considerable resistance, they stormed the Old Forty which may be noticed on the shore close to the entrance of the harbour. The Canadian garrison, being inferior in numbers, and unable to withstand the attack, retreated, and, in doing so, blew up their magazine, by which the American commander. General Pike, and 200 of his men were killed, and many wounded. The spot where this occurred is just a little to the west of the pre- sent parapet. Toronto slopes very gently upwards from the water's edge, so gently as to present an almost level apppearance. The sky lin':' is broken by the spires and towers of the churches and other buildings, and a fringe of green from the trees surmounting the Davenport Bills, which are the north limit of the city, forms a setting to the whole. Baggage is claimed on board, and transferred by the Toronto Transfer Company to the several hotels or railway stations. The Royal Mail Line Steamers, for the Rapids of the St. Law- rence and Montreal, leave from the same dock. Toronto as a Summer Itesort. This city has gradually become the acknowledged centre for the Province of Ontario, of intellectual study, political opinion, legal re- search and monied influence — all potent motives to attract residents to settle within its borders. But beyond and in addition to these are the lighter and more enjoyable attractions of amusement and relaxa- tion that serve to lighten the labour of anxious business, and while away the hours for persons of leisure. Theatres, concert halls, parks, and (if they may be enumerated in the class of mental relaxations) sensational preachers of much power, are adjuncts that may be added to any city, wherever its location. ?*f»; 46 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Iii these respects Toronto is amply endowed. She has, however, a natural endowment in her geographical and physical position and of which she is now only beginning to avail herself ; these advantages have contributed not a little to her past improvement, and bid fair to aid her happily in her advance towards metropolitan greatness. This city is pre-eminently a lakeside resort. In the past the streets have, and unless the city fathei.-; should with infinite blindness to her own good, and with poor faithlessness in their future expansion, adopt an opposite policy, will for all time give open and unrestricted aceess to the waters of the harbour. No resident of, or visitor to, Toronto but can — either by street-car or a short walk — get down to the water side, and enjoy a balmy evening's row upor the sheltered waters of the bay, reaching home again at an early hour, and retire to rest invigorated by manly exercise and health- giving air. In the evenings the waters of the harbour are tairly alive with boats. Take any ciij- of similar size, and beyond all doubt there are more pleasure boats to the aggregate number of families in Toronto than anywhere else or the globe. Jt is said there are cities in Chi.ia where a large number of people live in houses floating on the water ; but any one who saw the welcome given to Edward Hanlan — the Patron vSaint of Toronto Bay — when he came home crowned with the laurels of vic- tory, and all the water was covered with multitudinous craft of every size and shape, from the stately Chicora to the veriest *' dug-out," would have said, " Here is a whole city all afloat." And so it is ; the people of Toronto are the most persistent water lovers — for corro' borative evidence see the puffing ferries carrying their teeming loads of laughing children and anxious mothers to the sandy beaches of the island ; see the evening moonlight excursions, when, to the light of the moon and the strains of merry music, the maidens and their swains dance the soft summer hours away \ see the Saturday after- noon excursions, wh'^n steamer after steamer leaves the docks for neighbouring lakeside parks, for "luscious" Oakville, "ambitious" Hamilton, or " historic," delightful Niagara. By common consent the Canadian business world has agreed that ^'All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy," and while our THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 47 neighbours in the States may dig and delve, may sweat and strain in the ceaseless struggle for dollars and gain, we in Canada will pause awhile in the quick pur<;uit, and cultivating that more intelligent view of the work of man, let our youth sally forth to open air, fresh fields, athletic sports and vigorous play, setting their systems all aglow with vigorous health, and mind and brain re-invigorated and better fitted for week day work again. It is this opportunity of enjoyment, and this spirit of taking advantage of the opportunity, that has attracted to Toronto many people from other parts of Canada, and in fact from the world at large to become permanent residents. Cool lakeside breezes in summer and temperate moderation of cold in winter, make Toronto a very pleasant place in which to live, and the progress of the past proves it also to be a very good place in which to thrive. The City of Toronto. NAME AND EARLY HISTORY. The Capital of Ontario is perhaps the most progressive and pro- mising City in Canada. Even now it may be considered to be only in its youth, as there are still living within its borders inhabitants who can remember when there were but two or three brick houses, and they, and the few shanties which comprised the village, were hemmed together in a small clearing cut from the surrounding forest. The earliest mention of the name is found among some French memoirs in 1686, in connection with the " Portage of Toronto'' The country in the neighbourhood of what is now called Lake Simcoe, appeavs then to have been known as the " Toronto region," a region " well peopled," and a great " place of meeting," which is the most probable signification of the word. The portage to this place of meeting began at the protected harbour on the shores of the lake, thence by the Humber river, then called the Toronto 48 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. river, and then by a trail to the interior. In course of time a fort was erected by the French, at the Lake Ontario end of the trail, the remains of which are to be seen in the grounds of the Exhibition JBuildings. This at first, called Fort Rouill Front, Yonge to North Toronto, ' Toronto. Church. Blue. (( Front, Church to Bloor. Sherbourne. Red. (( York, King, Sherbourne to Bloor Sherbourne. Red. t« Front, Church, Queen, Sher- bourne tc Bloor, Winchester. Green. (( Front, Chu'-ch, King, Sher- borne, Carlion, Parliament, Winchester. j Parliament. White. f i Front, Church. King, Sher- i borne. Queen, Parliament and Gerrard St. east. College Ave. and White. Across town. College St., College Ave., Carl- Carlton St. ton, Parliament. ; TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 65 The usual rate is $i per hour, within the city limits, for one to four persons. The drivers and vehicles are all licensed under police supervision, and incivility or overcharges are very seldom met with. In taking a drive around the city or its environs, the pleasantest way for driver and for passenger is to come to an understanding about the rate be/ore starting. DRIVES. In ddition to the usual drives through the main streets to visit the several public buildings, the following drives may be mentioned as giving good examples of the pretty country surrounding the city. Distances out and back from Cofner of King and Yonge streets. East — The Lake Shore Road, Woodbine, Ben Lamond, Don and Danforth Road, and the Necropolis — 8J miles. North-East — Necropolis, Todmorden, Don Valley, Eglinton, Mount Pleasant — 6Jmiles. North — Queen's Park, Deer Park, Ridge Road, St. Albans street, St. George street — 6 miles. North-West — College street, Bloor street, Slattery's, High Park, Queen street, and Subway — 8J miles. West — King street, Lake Shore Road, Humber Bay and back — 9 miles. the public buildings. The public buildings of Toronto are of singular excellence, and are leally well worth visiting both for their architectural value and the instructive and interesting character of their contents. The more important are here mentioned, somewhat in the order in which they may be visited during a drive through the city. Front street, running parallel with the harbour, is lined with hana- some wholesale warehouses. 56 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. IC: 't Union Station. — Upon the Esplanade which skirts the water's edge, all the railways enter the city, and focus their radiations in this station. In 1 85 1 the first sod of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railway (the first railv/ay in Ontario) was turned at a spot on the water's bank, not far from here. The ceremony was performed by the Count- ess of Elgin, in the presence of well nigh the whole town. H Lord Elgin facetiously said ^ "it may seem a singular ap- plication of the principle of division of labour, that the UNION STATION. lady should dig and the gen- tleman speak. But this is an age of progress in which we must be prepared for much that is strange." He then adverted to the great advantages which would accrue from the construction of railways — predictions which have been fully verified. It seems almost impossible to believe that so short a time ago this city was in the winter locked in from all communication except by sleigh, and that in the summer the only connection witii the outer world was by water. Yet it was so, and some of the older boys can still remember the wonderment with which the first locomotives were viewed when they emerged from Jemmy Good's workshops, on Richmond street, and made their slow progress on temporary wooden tracks through the streets, down Yonge street to the Esplanade. As contrast to this primitiveness there are now 77 trains, bearing #& THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 57 Fpon the irts the railways cus their ion. In of the Huron ilv/ay in it a spot not far iremony \ Count- )resence le town, sly said jular ap- ciple of hat the the gen- must be he great Iways — ago this cept by 'itii the ler boys motives ops, on wooden le. bearing rrj>. and delivering passengers to all parts of the continent, daily entering the Union Station. The visitor arriving by water will notice at the foot of Yonge street the Custom House, of highly decorated Italian architecture. On the exterior are elaborate carvings of fruits and flowers, a well executed bust of the Queen, and alto- relievos of the most cele- brated English navigators and seamen — Drake, Nel- son, Jacques Cartier, Cook, and others. " The Long Room," where the public business is transacted, is most handsomely fitted and decorated. On the opposite corner is the new and handsome Batik of Montreal, a good instance of the care of a thoughtful architect to preserve the unpurchase- the custom house. able advantage of trees and foliage as an adornment to the structure itself. The octagonal counting-room within is admirably decorated with rare marbles and stained glass. The other Banks are mainly situated on Weilinglon street — the Standard^ Ontario, and Batik of Toronto being well housed. Torontonians are proverbial as a church-going people, there being no less than 120 churches and chapels in the city, or almost one for every 1,000 inhabitants. Sunday in Toronto is really a day of rest. All saloons close at 7 on Saturday evening, and do not open again until Monday morning — a law which is strictly observed. No street cars are run and scarcely a wheel of any kind turns. No business 68 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. of any description is conducted and no shops are open. Yet the streets are full of people either going to and from church or visiting their friends. Thus Monday morning finds everyone reinvigorated and ready for their work. On the corner of Church and King street, the most important street of this city, is St. James' Cathedral, the Seat of the Anglican Bishop of Toronto, a fine example of per- pendicular Gothic architecture, The spire, rising to the height .1316 feetjis gracefully proper- t; i^ed, and the most lofty on the V 'Uinent — exceeding that of Trinity Church, New York, by 21 feet. The tower con- tains a chime of bells and the celebrated clock manufactured by Benson, of London, which obtained the highest prize at the Vienna Exhibition. In the interior, the apse, surrounded by fine traceried windows, is finely decorated in carved oak, and contains monuments to Bishop Strachan, the first Anglican Bishop in Canada, aiid Dean Grasett— ST. JAMES' CATHEDRAL. both of whom, as also the wife of the Dean, are interred in the chancel— Chief-Justice Draper and others. The stained glass chancel windows— illustrating in the upper sections " The Ascension," and below, "The Last Supper," after Leonardo da Vinci ; also in the east window *' The Christian Virtues "—are fine examples of the best art work of Munich. The tower and spire can be ascended ] and in addition to seeing THE NORTHERN LAKEt' OF CANADA 69 I. Yet the i or visiting ^invigorated and King 'athedral, iple of per- rchitecture, ' the height ully proper- ist lofty on ceding that New York, tower con- ills and the inufactured don, which :st prize at ion. the apse, 2 traceried decorated d contains pStrachan, Bishop in Grasett— 5 also the ice Draper .ting in the t Supper," : Christian ich. I to seeing the works of the clock, a wide range of view can be had of the city, the harbour and surrounding country. The present church is the fourth which has occupied the present site, its predecessors having been destroyed by fire. The acoustic properties are peculiarly good, most probably due to the apsidal form of the chancel, so that the lowest tones are carried to the farthest extremity. Entrance is by the north-west door between lo A.M. and 3 P.M. A fee of ten cents for ascending the tower is collected towards the cost of maintaining the clock and chimes. A little further east on King street is the 5/. Lawrence Hall^ with cupola and clocks, containing the principal markets and some muni- cipal offices. 1 lie present home of the city officials is in the old D*;, Hall, a little to the south; but a site has been purchased, and n. ^^ city buildings and Court-House, to cost $500,000, are projected. Church street used to be the extreme west end of the town ana was so called from the first church, which occupied the corner . it and King, and was then entirely surrounded by the forest trees. The Public Library^ on the corner of Adelaide street^ is the success- ful growth of but a few years. The number of books on its shelves in 1885 was 41,286 ; and as it is already attracting generous dona- tions from private libraries, as being the fit receptacle for the custody and preservation of books valuable either for their rarity or their character, and where the benefit of their ownership may be shared with other less fortunate but yet congenial minds, its size will soon attain considerable proportions. A sum of about $4,000 per annum is expended on new purchases, and the Library has already an estab- lished reputation for its collection of books and documents bearing on early Canadian history. The number of books taken out by readers in 1885 was 277,931 — a goodly proportion to the population of the city. A well conducted Free Reading Room, stccKed with the best periodicals and newspapers, is a favourite resort, and well attended. 90 THE NORTBERN LAKES OF CANADA. I : ,11 I 1- Passing up Church street^ next is seen the Metropolitan Church, the headquarters of the Methodists of Canada. It is magnificently situated in the centre of an open square. The tur- reted tower and many pin- nacles distinguish it from the other churches of the city. The organ is the largest in Canada, contain- ing 3»3i5 pipes, and com- ^- pares favourably with many noted organs in Europe- Metropolitan Church Organ, Toronto . . 53 Stops. Strasbourg Cathedral 46 " Temple Church, Lon- don, England ... 47 " Westminster Abbey . 32 " Exeter Hall 42 " The voicing and tone of the organ are of rare excel- lence ; thus much attention is devoted to musical excel- lency and the choir of the church is of a high standard. Next is the Roman Catholic St. MichacVs Cathedral^ the interior highly frescoed, and containing a very handsome east window in stained glass, representing " The Crucifixion." The Archbishop has here his official throne. The Nofmal School is the centre of the Public School System of the Province. In it are the offices of the Minister of Education, and the Depository of books, &c., for distribution to the schools; and adjoining it are the Model Schools for boys and girls, in which the student teachers can see the school system in actual operation. METROPOLITAN CHURCH. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 61 NORMAL SCHOOL. The gardens are kept in fine order, each plant there being Libeled with its proper bota- nical name. In the interior is a really fine collection of paintings, comprising selec-^ tions of originals and copies ^ illustrating the great schools of art, copies of the most celebrated statues, and casts exhibiting the characteristic styles and ornaments of'i Gothic and Modern archi- tecture. In the Gratid Cen-- tral Hall and around the Tlieatrc are placed busts of the philosophers, orators and historic men of Roman and Grecian eras, the monarchs of England and eminent statesmen, authors, poets and celebrities of each reign. In the Gallery of the Statues are many examples of modern and ancient sculpture, among them Venus de Medicis, Urania, Cicero, Canova's Hebe, Powers' Greek Slave, Gibson's Homeless Wanderer, and Psyche borne by the Zephyrs, Thorwaldsen's Guardian Angel, &c. In the same room is a full series of impressions in wax from the seals of the Sovereigns of Eng- land, from the time of Edward the Confessor. A number of fine copies of portrait medallions and antique gems most interesting to those interested in gem cutting. In the next Gallery are examples of great educational value of the best varieties of maps, models for object lessons, philosophical apparatus, and generally of school equip- ment from which many useful ideas can be gleaned. The Picture Galleries occupy the whole front of the buildings and on their spacious walls the Paintings are splendidly displayed. The » ,'jjniiw. iin wi»n»wm i !JfA ' ^* ' '■■ UM 'i J ii.'J'.L' ■■■ '?: ■''-.gBjC^gtfrtS^?; 62 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, Italian, Flemish, Dutch, German, French and Spanish Schools of Art are all represented. The pictures are all numbered and the fol- lowing may be particularly mentioned : 13, "Peter's Denial of Christ," Gherardo. 35, " The Mother of Sorrows," Sassoferato, a painter celebrated for the beautiful shades of blue which usually appear in his portraits of the Virgin and of female saints. 15, "The Remorse of Peter," Carlo Dolci. 40, *' Head of St. John presented to Herodias," Luini. 51, " The (Irand Canal, Venice," Canaletti. Among some good examples of Guido Reni, whose grace and harmony of colouring are rarely excelled, are, 61, " Lucretia," a lady of ancient Rome distinguished for her beauty and virtue, who, resenting the outrage offered to her by Sextus Tarquin (B.C. 507), took own life. 63, "The Massacre of the Innocents." 62, " Beatrice Cenci." 60, " The Archangel Michael.'' 64, " Aurora," Goddess of the Morning (this last one is on the west stairway). 68, *' The Last Communion of St. Jerome," Domeni- chino. 73, " The Conspiracy of Cataline," Salvator Rosa. 82, " Beatrice Cenci the Night Before Her Execution," A. Ratti {Sec also No. 62). The poet Shelley has dramatized, in his poem "The Cencis," the story of the wrongs of her who was "Cutoflf From light and life and love in youth's sweet prime.'' 23, " Madonna della Sedia," the only Madonna painted by Raphael who has not her eyes cast down. The original was painted upon the head of a cask. 32, "The Transfiguration," Raphael — by common consent his master-piece — which was placed over his head when he lay in state at his funeral obsequies. 30, " La Fornarina," portrait of the Roman maiden with whom Raphael fell in love. 2, "The Head of the Medusa," Leonardo da Vinci. HOW PERSEUS BROUGHT BACK THE GORGON's HEAD. In the old Greek myth of Perseus and how he slew the Gorgon, to those who read beneath, there lies a deeper meaning than appears THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. C3 upon the surface. The goddess Athen6 inspires Perseus, a noble Greek youth, to brave deeds, leading him to feel it were " Better to die in the flower of youth, on the chance of winning a noble name, than to live at ease and die unloved and unrenowned." Having come to manhood's age she tests him to go forth and slay Medusa, the Gor- gon, and bring back to her, as trophy, the foul one's head The Medusa had once been a maiden beautiful as morn, till in her pride she sinned a sin at which the sun hid his face ; and from that day her hair was turned to vipers and her hands to eagle's claws ; and her heart was filled with shame and rage, and her lips with bitter venom ; and her eyes became so terrible that whosoever looked upon them was turned to stone. Her children were the winged horse and the Giant of the golden sword, and her grandchildren Echidna, the witch-adden and Geryon, who fed his herds beside the herds of hell. So she be" came the sister of the Gorgons, Stheino and Euryte the abhorred. Then Athen^ gave to Perseus her polished shield, in the reflected brass of which he was to look so that he might strike safely and not be turned to stone, and Hermes gave his sandals, on which quivered living wings, so that they might carry him unwearied safe over land and sea, and his sword of diamond of one clear precious stone, Herp6, the Argus-slayer. So Perseus sailed high over the mountain tops and skimmed over the billows like a sea-gull and his feet were never wetted, far away into the heart of the Unshapen Land, beyond the streams of Ocean, where there is neither night nor day, until he heard the rustle of the Gorgons' wings and saw the glitter of their brazen talonG, and as he looked in the mirror of his shield he saw the three lying below him in iheir sleep with mighty wings outspread. And the Medusa tossed to and fro re^ lessly, and as she tossed Perseus pitied her. In her face still stayed the form of beauty, but her cheeks were pale as death and her brows were knit with everlasting pain, and her lips were thin and bitter like a snake's ; and around her temples the horrid vipers wreathed and, moving constantly, shot out their fiery tongues. But as he looked, Perseus saw, that for aU her beauty the Medusa was as foul and venomous as those with whom u t ¥ I Si ( if If i 64 THU NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. she lay. With one stroke from Herp6 the head was severed, and her wings and talons rattled as Medusa sank dead upon the rocks. And so, wrapped in a goatskin, Perseus bore back to Pallas Athene the Gorgon's head. In Room No. 6, in the rotary stands, is a collection of over 600 photographs of National Historical Portraits, being taken from paintings of eminent persons from the time of the Plantagenets to the end of James II (1152 to 1688). The originals were exhibited at the first special exhibition of national portraits, at South Kensington Museum. They are classified and chronologically arranged and the names of the painters given when known. Other stands contain photographs of paintings in the National Gallery, England. The Italian and Flemish schools are the best represented, and in the corridors are many excellent small examples of the Dutch school In cases in the centres of the rooms are photographs of the Kings and Queens of England and of well-known men of Britain and Canada. In the ^^ Nineveh Gallery,'' are copies from the great Layard collection of the British Museum. There are many electrotypes of art treasures in the London South Kensington Museum — casts of ge.x , medals, coins, etc. ; and alto- gether an Art collection of singular excellence. Here school-boys and scholars will find materialized — either in picture or in sculpture — many of the personages or events with which they meet in their reading ; and if this collection were intelligently used and referred to, it would be found that much additional interest and zest would be given thereby to reading and to study. There is a good catalogue for sale at the office — price 25 cents. Entrance is free throughout the year from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on week-days, except on Christmas and New Year's days. The private residences of Toronto present a genuine air of quiet and comfort, and in this district a very fair exc^mple may be seen of their character. On Jarvis street is the Baptist Church — one of the most picturesque in the city; the interior is of amphitheatrical form, thus giving great play of outline to the exterior, to which the Queeuston brown stone, New Brunswick red granite, and ornamental THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 65 d, and her :ks. And thenc the over 600 ken from lets to the hibited at ensington d and the s contain and in the hool. In SCings and 1 Canada, collection Ion South and alto- -either in vith which itelligently al interest There is ntrance is ys, except mM^ slates, add great colour and effect. The organ is remark- able for the beauty of its tone. The Horticultural Gar- dens occupy a square of ten acres. During the summer a beautiful display of flowers is kept up; which is well worth visiting — particularly the Rosa- riu/ft, for its great variety of roses. The grounds are the property of the city, and en- trance is free from 6 a.m. to 8 P.M. Band concerts and exhibitions of fire-works are given at frec^uent intervals in the evenings, from the pro- ceeds of which, together with a grant from the city, the gar- dens are maintained. The land was a liberal gift to his native city by the Hon. Geo. ''^^""^ '^""''''"• VV. Allan, The gardens were opened by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales in i860 ; and a tree then planted by him now exhibits considerable growth. T/ig Pavilion Aliisic Hall occupies the west side of the gardens. Attached to it are the conservatories, in which an excellent " winter garden " is maintained. Having a seating accommodation for 3,ooo, and excellent acoustic properties, it has been of great advantage to the music-loving people of the city as an educator, and has given opportunities for attracting the best exponents of the continent. The Monday Popular Concerts, given here every fortnight throughout the winter, and the annual festivals of the Philharmonic and Choral Societies, are good evidences that a very high class of music culture E >-.l».-..^T-;-J,,J^-,U >- t \ 66 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. • ' 1'* flourishes among the citizens. The best public balls are given in this Pavilion, for which it has unexampled facilities. The Boys' Home and the Gir/s' Home, two excellent chanties for the retreat and care of destitute children not convicted of crime, are in the vicinity, and invite visitors to view their work. The tall towers of The General Hospital are seen still further to the east. This establishment is in every way a model, with its subdivisions for cure of the various classes of disease, eye and ear infirmary, lying-in hospital, etc., -Jid separate convalescent and recreation wings. Near by are its attendant schools of medicine. Trinity Scnoot taking its degrees from Trinity College and Toronto School from University College. The reputation of these schools is very high and their degrees greatly esteemed throughout the Continent, so that a college population of between 400 and 500 are in attendance at their lectures. Not far from King Street, and at the head of York Street, standing in ornamen- tal grounds is Osgoode Hall, named after the first Chief Justice of Canada, and the seat of the Highest Law Courts of the Province, The interior surpasses that of any other Courts of Law, and is of rare beauty. The Central Court, of two OSGOODE HALL. storics in the Italian style, ven in this hanties for ' crime, are The tall e east, ubdivisions : infirmary, recreation mity Smoi School from s very high "ees greatly ughout the lat a college )etween 400 | attendance THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 67 i King Street, ad of York in ornamen- , I ')sgoode Hall, e first Chief ada, and the li^hest Law e Province, urpasses that Courts of rare beauty. :ourt, of two Italian style, is adorned with double rows of Doric columns in cream coloured stone from Caen, in Normandy. The best view on the entrance floor is obtained from the extreme north-west corner, from where the several rows of columns can be brought into perspective. On the walls are portraits of the Chief-Justices and Chancellors ; from the upper colonnade the Law Courts are entered — in each, above the seats of the Judges, a bas-relief of " Impartial Justice." The Library is a magnificent chamber, with lofty domed ceiling, and many-nooked bookshelves for the 30,000 volumes which it contains. A fire-place of fine design and proportions occupies the west end ; over it the portrait of Chief-Justice Sir John Beverley Robinson, who, when a young man, served under General Brock, at the battle of Queenston Heights, in 182 1. In the adjoining wings are the offices of the various Courts. The grounds are well kept. The judges in Canada are not elected, but are appointed by the General Government, during " good behaviour," or practically for life ; and as they are always selected from the first ranks of the pro- fession, the Canadian Judiciary bears high record for talent and un- impeachable integrity. Should any of the Courts be in session the visitor will be struck with the dignity and decorum with which the Law is administered. Separated from politics, with income assured and absolutely unas- sailable, and in a social position of rank by all classes respectfully recognized, a seat on the " Bench " is considered one of the highest honours obtainable in the Dominion. The Parks of Toronto have so far not had much done to beautify or embellish their natural advantages. The Riverside Park is situate upon the banks of the Don at the eastern limits of the City. Upon the shores of the Humber Bay, at the west end, and adjoining the windings of the Humber River, is " The High Park.'' Extending over an area of four hundred acres it comprises within its boundaries great possibilities for landscape gardening. Roads have been i>!t! 68 TEE NOETHEEN LAKES OF CANADA. opened through its winding dells and rolling hills, skirting the minia- ture lakes, and opening vistas of distant views, making a drive through its woodland glades a pleasurable outing. Pic nickers revel in its groves, and sieainboats and railway trains give hourly access. 77/^ Queen's Fork of about fifty acres in extent, is situated in the heart of the Ciiy, and is approached through The College Avenue, 1 20 feet wide and a mile in length, bordered on either side by horse chestnuts and elms. On gaining the Park the road passes the Russian guns captured by the British troops at Sebastopol, and presented by the British Govern- ment to the city. The bands of the volunteer regiments play here on Saturday evenings during the summer fro.n the band stand under the trees. The drive then sweeps aior., the edg": o^ a ravine to the Volunteers Monununt^ erected in memory of Can^dii^ns who fell THE COLLEGE AVENUE. ^uiiug thc Fcniau raid, in t866, On the summit— Britannia. Below— Two Infantry Volunteers, and emblematical figures of Hope and Grief. An effective railing of crossed rifles surmounts the base. Opposite to this is the bronze statue of the Hon. George Brou^n, one or the for^^mosr Canadian politicians of his day, and the founder of the Globe ne.vsp-};,n\ The figure, which is of heroic size, repre- sents the orator in he act of speaking, and is a very effective worlc of art. Thr sculpinr v.rs C. B. Burcb, A.R.A., London, Eng. The Park is well Wv;Oi.icl vith old forest trees, principally oaks, and has I much n I The roa( comes ir The I \ building I — wheth j^ carvings I The p I the cent: I windows '% ard a ci I % *»>* '*r«. ^/r^Mr r^0 The quadran east wii the mos m On tl I columns THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 69 tie minia- a drive iers revel access. :ed in the Avenue, in length, : by horse •n gaining asses the i by the ;opol, and h Govern- much natural beauty. Surrounding it are many villa residences. The road winds down a hill and passing a small sheet of water next comes in view upon the opposite slope. The University of Toronto. — This noble Norman Gothic group of buildings is the finest example of its style of architecture in America — whether in its massive proportions or in the mediaeval detail of the carvings in stone, no two of which are the same. The principal front is of great grandeur, a massive tower rises in the centre flanked by wings on either side with long ranges of varied windows ; to the left a picturesque minaret with shady cloister below, ard a cu-cular building containing the Laboratory. volunteer I Saturday nmer froai he trees. | :eps aiov:., le to the I erected in ; who fell i, in 1866. Volunteers, e railing of 'ge Bro'd'iU the founder size, repre- ;ctive work Eng. The ;s, and has \. Wt-J*--"— "■' UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO. The whole group forms three sides of a square, with an int nal quadrangle ; the west wing contains the students' quarters, and the east wing with the Octagon Tower and Convocation Hall is one of the most excellent portions of the design. On the E?itrance Doonvay are the Arms of the College, and columns of richly carved stone. The entrance hall and long corridors ! 3'. I:' -^i J 70 THE NORTHER}^ LAKES OF CANADA. \i If I: "f, {fl '■ UMV fi;:' If' j:| i j( ir ead to 7//^ Convocation Hali, with high gabled oak roof, carved in grotesque forms. The stained glass triple window is in memory of the Students who fell defending the frontier in i866. On the Sefiatt Stairway are some marvellous carvings in white Caen stone of Cana- dian birds. These, as works of the highest merit, should not be missed. The Library, a. splendid chamber, with inviting quiet re- cesses, contains 40,000 volumes, also a statue of William of Wyke- ham. The Museum contains a collection of birds, beasts and curiosi- ties, well worthy of a visit. A winding stair, of 160 steps from this level, leads to the top of the Toicer, from whence a fine view of Toronto and its environs is obtainable, and on clear days, of the cloud of spray hovering over the Niagara Falls. The keys must be ob- tained from the curator. The details of the designs and of the carv- ings in stone of this building are worthy of close study, as having been framed on the b^st examples of European architecture. It will be noticed that there is no repetition. Every column and capital is a separate study, and each errirhment a new design. This is applic- able to the exterior as well as the interior, and some fantastic Gothic carvings are to be seen about the west cloister and around the eave of the laboratory. Entrance fret, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Big Tom, whose solemn tones are to be heard from the tower at 9 o'clock every evening, when the otudents are in residence, weighs On the opposite side of the lawn is the Tower and Dome of the Observatory, now the home of the Meteorological Department for the Dominion, or what is more popularly known as, " Old Probabili- ties." From here the daily weather forecasts are telegraphed to all parts of the Dominion. Every mail train starting in the morning, in all parts of Canada, carries on its mail car a large signal which can be seen as it passes along, and indicates the weather for the day. Thus the country as well as the town's people get the advantage of the forecasts. This establishment was originally initiated by the Brit- in5T3 TH^ NOkt^EttN LAkES OF CAlTAi)A. 71 ;arved in lemory of he Setiatt ; of Cana- d not be quiet re- of Wyke- d curiosi- from this e view of ^s, of tlie lust be ob- f the carv- iving been It will be apital is a s is applic- Stic Gothic id the eave tower at 9 weighs 3me of the .rtment for [ Probabiii- phed to all norning, in which can 3r the day. ivantage of by the Brit- w ish Govetnment some thirty years ago, and during that time and now meteorological observations are made and recorded by skilled ob- servers, every minute without intermission 1 a quiet, unostentatious pursuit of scientific knowledge, which few are aware goes on in their midst. The monstrosity in red brick alongside, is the School of Technology. McMaster College, the training college for the Baptist clergy, is at the head of the Queen's Park. This was founded and endowed by the Hon. Wm. McMaster, a wealthy resident of Toronto, and its handsome Credit Valley stone facade forms a very effective grouping in the midst of ihe surrounding trees. KNOX OOLLEaB— TORONTO. Further to the West of the Park is Knox College, well situated at the head of Spadina Avenue. This is the headquarters of the educational work of the Presbyterian Church of Canada. The Col- lege was formed in 1844, and is well endowed. The present build- ings were erected in 1875, ^"^^ ^"^^ occupied by six professors and about one hundred students. 72 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, ! i On the east side of the Queen's Park is St. Michael's College, oc- cupying an excellent position on the crown of Clover Hill. Here is carried on the higher education of the Roman Catholic body of the Province of Ontario. Close by it is the excellent young ladies' school, kept in St. Mary's Convent by the nuns of the order. TRINITY COLLEGE. In the west end of the city, and standing in its own grounds, Trinity College, built ir the early English style, has a quaint scholastic air. The facade is pleasantly diversified with cut stone dressings and projecting bay windows, while the bell turrets above (yclept by the students " pepper pots ") add much to the appearance* The newly added Chapel, whose plain exterior rather mars the continuity of the facade, is admirably finished and arranged in its interior, and is worthy of inspection. The Convocatmi Hall has a handsome oak roof highly carved, and portraits of founders and chancellors of the University. The students' quarters are in the wings. The College is the seat of the Anglican or Episcopal Church in Canada under a Royal charter, and was erected by the exertions of Bishop Strachan in 1851. It has an outlying branch in " Trinity School," at Port Hope, a boys' ,' ,* i THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 73 ^iege, oc- Here is of the ladies' <;-r^S grounds, a quaint :ut stone !ts above pearancc mars the ed in its rved, and ; the seat a Royal \ in 1851. e, a boys' school of rare excellence, and founded and conducted on the lines of the great English public schools. The University of Trinity College and the University of Toronto are the only corporations having power to confer degrees, the other colleges being colleges of instruction "in affiliation." It will be readily seen that Toronto is thus quite a " University City," and when during the winter the Colleges are in session there are fully 1,500 students in residence. In addition to these, the Toronto Veterinary College, numbering on an average 300 students, has a Continental reputation, and some first- class Business Colleges are also in operation. On the western limits of the city, upon the shores of the beautiful curve of the Humber Bay, is the High Park, comprising 400 acres of hill and dale of varied wood-land scenery. The Humber River affords pleasant boating jaunts, and the views over the lake, from the high lands in the rear, are well worth the drive. In Parkdale will be found The Home for Incurables, one of the most perfectly conducted charities of the city. Visitors are cordially welcomed. The view from the top of the central tower gives a better idea of the geographical location of the city than is obtainable from any other place, and is worth seeing. The Exhibition Buildings, most prominently set on the Lake shore, are complete in every respect, and at the time of the Fall Fairs in September are thronged with visitors from all parts. The grounds are open and maintained by the city as a park, with flower gardens in the summei, making a pleasant and cool drive. The Central Prison for men, and the Mercer Reformatory or Prison for women, are open to visitors upon orders from the Government Inspector of Prisons. In the Provincial Lunatic Asylum, with large central dome and wide extending wings, are collected the insane from all parts of Ontario. At the intersection of King and Simcoe streets are Upper Canada College, the oldest boys' school in the Province, and St. Afidrew's 74 THE NORTHERl^ LAKES OF CANADA. Church, a splendid edifice in the old Scotch baronial style, of massive stone-work and arched windows, the abode of the *' Old Kirk/ Government House, the palatial residence of the Lieutenant- l.: 2 S < g o »i o 03 O M ?!; tf ^ O o n K ■ ^ H ■al ^ M H Nrl P <5 M ;z; a c< H w » > H o b o U H U 'A M O H H 03 Q 00 G a ( :-i. Governor of Ontario, is on the opposite corner. The valley which winds through the gardens is the last reminiscence of " Russell's Creek," up which Governor Simcoe used to row from the Bay when THE NOMTHEEM LAKES OF CANADA, 75 massive 1 Kirk/ nitenant- Q < cfl G PJ O S lley which ' Russell's Bay when he first cliose Toronto to be his capital. The gardens are weU kept, and the conservatories well stocked. In the interior is a very hand- some main entrance hall, with grand staircase; to the left is the suite of Presence Chambers, in which the receptions and levees are held. Beyond these are the conservatories and ball-room. In the dining- room is a fine collection of life-size portraits of the Governors of Upper Canada from its cession to the British Crown. Permission to view the interior must be obtained by letter from the A.D.C. in wailing. There are many other fine buildings ; among them The Post-Office, and the many surrounding Financial Insti- tutions upon Toronto street, which is fast becoming the Lombard or Wall street of Toronto. Upon King street will have been noticed a fine building bearing the title, ** Manning's Arcade ; " passing through the archway in its centre, access is gained to The Grand Opera House. The interior is of good form, and has a seating capacity of 2,300, with a large and spacious stage adapted to the production of the most exacting plays. The traditions of the house include reminis- cences of the best modern actors — Fechter, Irving, Booth, Boucicault, Neilson, Bernhardt, and others. Toronto audiences are proverbially of high requirements and acute taste — no doubt in great degree from the large and educated student population, whose approval and POST-OFFICE. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 ■tt 14:0 12.0 L25 IH 1.4 1.6 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 (716) S72-4S03 > 76 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. disapproval of the plays sub- mitted to its criticism is frequently expressed in un- mistakeable terms. This healthy expression of mer- curial temperament — pulsa- Mng with the progress of the action on the stage — is of like character with that found at the theatres in Dublin ; and thus it is that not a few companies — the fascinatinS Adelaide Neilson's among them — have preferred to submit new plays to the audiences at " the Grand " before bringing them to the less exactingandmore coldly undemonstrative audiences of the United States. In the outskirts of the city are many pleasant drives : T^e Valiey of the Don, Todmorden, Norway, Davenport, etc., while the Summer afternoon water excursions by steamers to Niagara, Victoria Park, Scarbord Heights, Number Bay, Mitnico, Oakville, Hamilton, etc., at fares from 25 cents to $1.00, serve to diversify the visitor's stay. Situated as Toronto is, upon the shores of L?ke Ontario, the summer heats are tempered by the presence of the broad expanse of water and attendant breezes : whatever may have been the heat of the day, it rarely ever extends into the night, so after sundown the cool air and sof" summer evenings make the city — what it really is — a pleasant lake-side resort. GRAND OPERA HOUSE. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 77 Off for a Real Good Fish. Gentleman (to grocer) — " Two gallons Santa Cruz, one gallon Old Tom, Iwo gallons Maryland Club, four dozen Pommery Sec, four- dozen Milwaukee and six boxes of Reina Vies." Grocer — "Yes, sir. That all, sir?" Gentleman — " Er — Do you keep fishing tackle ?" Grocer — "Yes, sir, full line, sir." Gentleman — " Ah — Put in a couple of fish hooks." The Northern Lakes. Our tourists will now direct their attention to the trip to the " Inter- ior," and the country stretching 200 miles northward of Toronto, to- wards the Georgian Bay and the Inland Lakes. Until recently it was a wilderness, but within twenty years or so numerous towns and hamlets have sprung up ; many summer hotels have been opened at attractive points, and settlers have poured in with a rapidity equal to the sottle- ment of many parts of the Western States. Railroads have pene- trated into its heart. Steamboats ply upon its larger lakes, and some excellent highways traverse its length and breadth. It is emphati- cally a country of forests, lakes, and rivers. The lakes vary greatly in size, the larger ones thirty and forty miles in length, and the smaller ones mere ponds, but clear and deep, and all abounding in salmop-trout, perch, blgck-bass and speckled trout. the northern and north-western railway Is one of the connecting links between the frontier and the interior. Leaving Toronto by one of the express trains furnished with fine parlour cars, the passengers will pass through a populous and rich country, with substantial farm houses and extensive saw-mills at in- tervals, along the whole line. The appointments of the railway are 78 THE NORTHERh^LAKES OF CANADA. first-class, and the station houses, models of neatness and beauty, have tasteful flower gardens and lawns attached, with jets of water spurting from fountains that cool and refresh the plants. At Parkdale will be noticed the Subway^ by which Queen street, the great east and west artery of the city, passes under the converging railways. At this point the Canadian Pacific, Grand Trunk and Northern Railways all enter the city. The growth of the suburbs shows itself along the next couple of miles, where the houses are gradually creeping farther and farther into the country and streets of buildings occupy the receding farms. At four miles is Davenport^ a hill side locality fast filling with sub- urban residences, having a pretty station, with flower-garden and high- gabled roof. On the left between this station and Weston, is seen the Valley of the Humber River and the heights of the Caledon Hills which close the distant view to the west. Toward the south will be seen the blue outline of the lake with the wooded points about Mimico jutting out into its waters. The height of land between Lakes Ontario and Huron, which is reached at twenty-six miles from Toronto, is 755 feet above the level of Lake Ontario, and 415 feet above that of Lake Huron. A few miles beyond King the line passes by not a few curves through " The Ridges." Here, within the confines of, a single farm, the waters diverge on either side the summit of the water-shed. One streamlet running south forms the tiny headwaters of the infant Humber^ whose mouth debouches into Lake Ontario at Toronto, the other winds its way northward to the Holland River on its way to the Georgian Bay, and thence returns by Lake Erie and over the Niagara Falls to reunite their waters in Lake Ontario, after a circuit of over 800 miles. The train emerges from the turnings among the hills and on the left Is caught a pleasant view over the finely nurtured farms of the " Vale of Auroral The hill-sides dotted with comfortable farm steadings, the rounded copses of hardwood trees and the spires of pom for t^ squai dowr on 1( Fran Nort God( THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 79 the little village churches give a picture which might be taken out of fair England itself. "6^/rt-Botii**llirt,TorQntt It au w; la a! L o k a I d a ft 8 b e n e c h b n li BooKs "^ OT) o pi5l7i9(J. K YACHTS CANOES CAMPING. o e » /''itt/tlnff irlfh I/to Flff. By C. V. Orvitt. Colrr ;«i plaius i)t 141V si.iiulard S(ilmi)ii, Bass and Trout l'"li«!8. with tiamcH. f?2.75. • Itook o/' thf Ithirk IShmh. Its 8cit;ntihc and lit*; history, with a ticiatise on Aii«linn by I>r. Hciishall. I'liUy ilhis- tratfd, !S3.25. SujH'rlor I'^iMlihiff. Stiiinul Bass, Trout, vie., ot North America. By K. V. Kosscvclt. Illiistrattid. 82.25. The (iamr Fish «/' Northrrtt f'nitfti Hti$tvM ittttt (Utiuula. By R. B. Kossevrlt. Illustrated. ^t.2f,. Fllf Itotln amt Fli/ Tarhh: Su^nestions as to th«: uiaiiutactun and ust;. By H. I^. Willis. lUustrattid. ^3.(h). '/'/*<' .Hotlmt t'rartiiutf Auyh'r. A complete >(uidc to Fly Fisliing, Bottom Fisliin>4 and Trolling. By H. I'ru- iiell. niu.->trated. !?i.2':. T/if Hook of tin- I'Ikc. iiy H. Pnmell. Illustrated. :lHi.25.' ?'/j^5.3o. Amftriraii SportMuian. Containing hints to sportsmen, notes on shooting, etc. By R. J. Lewis, M.D. s^S-Oo. Williamson & Co , Tin Vttrltl SilHur \ Iit;iti.i ■III i'l.nlii.il N," '>lslliail' ^tii|). Ciiiisiii^^ uiil KariiiK, Uy V;iii(lii. I'ritrHral ttoat Ittiihlhtff llliisiiatfd. Hy Ktiiip. sBi.in. I'rarlirtil Hoat Haillnf/ My Davis, sja.or) 1'ttnof anil Hoat Ituihliitg A coiiiploti' inatnial for am iKiiis. (oiitaiiiinn jilaii^ aiui coinprtlu'iisivc dircc tioiis for tlu; constnictioii ot raiiors, lowiiin and sailinu boats, and hunting cratt. With immnrous illvistiations and J4 plates of working drawings, hy VV. V. Stcph«Mis !?I.hS- Vattov UaHtllluff. The Canoe— its history, uses, limita- tions and varieties, practical niananfinciit and (arc 11 instrated by C. Howyer Vanx. .•Ji.2,'5- Uauneiug in Kanuvkia : 01, Hap^ and Mishaps Afloat and Ashore. Hy Norton and Hahluirton. i^\.7S- The Hoh Hoff on thf Haltlr. Mvjohn MacRrcKor. sfii.is, .1 Thouaand Miles in the Roh Ron danoe, Hy John Mac;;re»{or. sl^i.as. t'offaffe Alone in the yawl ' Koh Uoy." My John Mac- Kregor. #i.so. The (Janoe Aurora. A crtiiHC from tlu- .\diroiidacks to the Gulf. With maps ot the loutc-. My Dr. Charles A Ncide. ri'i'-i^. Hathlle and Portage. .•Si.sc (Jampinu and UruiHing lu Florida My Dr Hen shall. Illustrated. i5i.75 How to lamp Oat. Hy John M.Gould, .iid.ixj. Fraetieal Hintn on Cunvpinif. Hy H Hei>tl«ison .■?i.5o. n'oodrraf't. My Nesamuk. .-Ji.z.s. Canoe and fUiinp Cook'rn. A iiractital book toi canoe- ists and others. Hy Seneca >"M.2S. (lamp FAfe and the Tricks of Trappinjj. Hy W. H.Gibson Illustrated, .-^i.as. Booksellers, Toronto. '^iLmm* 08 It au w a I k a c I c a f s t c r € c i I r £ .MAPS ■& GUIDE BOOKS -TO — Famous Fishing Districts A NEW, MAP of Huskoka Lakes, Parry Sound, and Nipissing Districts. Showing Canoe Routes mentioned in Barlow Cumberland's New Guide to the Northern Lak^s. It also shows Railways, Government Roads, Free Grant Lands, and Lumber Limits. In cloth case, convenient for the pocket. 7Se. MAP AND GUIDE BOOK to Ihe Mnskoka Lakes. Showing all the Islands. 'By Capt. Rogers,, of the Steam Yacht " Sunbeam." Canoeists and Campers will find this an invaluable pocket companion. HOc. MUSKOKA, the Picturesque Playground of Canada. * . ,> •», A portfolio of 12 lithographic views (ii x 15) of well-lyiown and picturesque scenes. By Edward Roper. $1.IjO. A Large Supply of Light Litemtttre for Stimnter ■' reading altonyn in Htoek. WILLIAMSON & CO. BooisrsELXjEies, No. 5 King Street West, ■ V- - Toronto. A>fe., J* Ro ute M ap LAKE JOSEPH TO MOON RIVER ./ /{itrffr-J. f :k ^ KPi'- 4-' _ 0C( the six ho ; . i"f ■■■-./ ko Pr 'i . .f ■- .^ ^ S. ,.-i--:^. I ' . k ..#" .yi^.-'. ^-- .-.-v-V; «..■„»,. 1 .> i ' / . ' tui in i pe tai "-., "^ ■■ ■'"' V ■ ' nij 4-nt TUB NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 99 , Rocks abound throughout ; indeed four-tenths of the country is occupied by rocks and lakes ; but both in the water and on the land the rocks jut directly up, so that alongside the base is immediately a good depth of water or of soil. Thus the whole of the remaining sixty per cent, is available for use, and having these adjacent store- houses of moisture or of heat, its powers are largely improved. Graz- ing is peculiarly successful, and in this branch lies the future o*" Mus- koka. It will become the dairy and the sheep grazing district of the Province, for the rocks of Muskoka seem to have the faculty of nur- LAKE MUHKOKA. turing trees, shrubs, and verdure which cling to and cover their sides in a most incomprehensible manner. The fiora'of the district is, as might be expected from its situation, peculiar to itself, and walks through the woods will bring to the un- taught eye many unaccustomed varieties and to the educated bota- nist, a rare storehouse of pleasure. One of them says : " The vege- tation is almost tropical in its undisturbed luxuriance. The beautiful white fringed Orchis — the loveliest of all the Habenarias— and the 100 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. splendid Cinnamon and Royal Osmund ferns grow to perfection in low and moist situations, while the Polypody and the Shield-fern flourish in the higher grounds. In the district are also found, in exceptional abundance, Club mosses of various species, and the curious Pitcher plant nestles in its moss setting along the margins of the sequestered pools." The district was long occupied by the various sub-tribes of the Hurons, as being a safe asylum from the fury of the warring nations who occupied the shores of Lake Ontario, while its woods and waters afforded them ample sustenance of fish and game. The tract is shown upon the Carfe de la Nouvdle France (Map of New France), published by the early voyage urs and Jesuit Fathers, as lying between the country of the " Ancien Pays des Hurons'^ (Ancient Land of the Hurons) who were destroyed and scattered hy the Iroquois in i64g), and the country of the ^^Pays Otitaouais " (Ottawa tribes). Lake Muskoka was then called by the French '^Pdit Lac des Hu- rons" and Lake Simcoe ^^Lac Torofito" The origin of the name is, as is the case with all names originating from Indian sources, couched in mystery and subject of different opinions. Some assert it is derived from the Indian word " Mus- quo-tah," signifying " red ground," probably owing to its rusty iron and ochre-coloured sediments which may be seen in the soils of many of the fields, and around the banks of some of the streamlets. Others that its meaning is that of the " Clear-sky-land," a signifi- cation which would appear to have some reasonable accuracy, but whatever its meaning may be, we may fairly accept the earliest testi- timony, and join with Mr. Alex. Sheriff, who in his topographical notices, published by the Quebec Historical Society, in 1831, says: " This river is called the Muskoka, after the Missasaga chief, who used to hunt in some part of its neighbourhood." This chief's name is elsewhere spelt " Mesqua-Okee." All Indian names have some attendant meaning ; be this whatever it may, it was borne by a gallant warrior and a bold hunter, whose renown spread through the surrounding country. The home of his tribe was hard by the shores of Lake Ontario, and little was it supposed, when he THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 101 sought sport and recreation in this inland paradise of game, that he was leading the way for so many others to follow exactly in his foot- steps, in our later and modern days. Thus we connect the present beautiful and improving district with the romantic and receding past. Perhaps some of the writers, to whom Canada is now giving birth, will do for this territory what Fenimore Cooper did for those farther south, or Bulwer Lytton has done for Pompeii, and will re-people these ancient homes with the romance and story of their earlier In- dian and French occupation. Once more then shall the birch bark canoe, with its dusky occupants, steal through the waters between the silent islands, either in peaceful summer -bright journey, or on expedi- tion of deadly internecine hate. Gravenhurst. This town, now grown to considerable estate, has been always the Gateway to the Muskoka district. Here used to arrive the wearied stages after their fourteen miles jolting over the rocks and through the gullies which line the whole way over the portage from WashagOy where the last transfer was made from the steamers. How many a heart has sank in despair as the forbidding rocks seemed almost to crowd out the soil. Nothing but the firm determination to win "independence" has spurred the wayfarer to press still further into " the bush," instead of retiring precipitately after this first acquaintance, whose fallacy is soon shown once the rocky barrier has been surmounted. Next, in 1879, came the extension of the railway to this point, and from Gravenhurst the busy lumberman or the busier tourist took steamer to gain the northern parts of the country, and then in i886 comes the crowning advance of all, the opening of the Pacific Junction Branch right through the heart of the district to the great Lake Nip- pissing, to Callander, and the connection with the Canadian Pacific. Later on we will trace the steps of the traveller along this line of railway, but still taking Gravenhurst as the *' Gateway City," we will follow first along the water route. The town occupies a most eligible site, crowning elevated but not too hilly ground, and encircling deep bays with shores sloping down to the water's edge. On the eastern side of the town is Gull Lake^ ■} I :i;li ; 102 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. a charming little sheet which discharges its waters through the Jlock Rock trout stream. The place has considerable trade in the manu- facture and shipment of lumber and timber. There are three churches ; the stores, hotels and other establishments are creditable in appearance, and supplies of all kinds can be had at extremely moderate prices. The hotels are commodious, well kept and inex- pensive. The town is in thriving condition, making fine progress and extending rapidly. The immediate neighbourhood affords con- siderable attraction to the tourist and sportsman. Brook trout (in limited quantities), salmon trout, bass and pickerel in abundance ; deer, partridge, hare and a limited amount of duck shooting — all cnn be conveniently reached from Gravenhurst as a centre. Pigeon Lake, Deer Lake, and Pine Lake are reached by the Muskoka road to the north-west. Loon Lake, Leg Lake, and Rice Lake are nearer, and more to the west of the town. Doe Lake is about two miles to the east. The railway station for the town and where the junction for the Callender extension is made, is on the upper level. The lake station, called Muskoka Wharf, where connection is n.ade with the Mus- koka Navigation Coy's steamers, is reached by a very sleep grade winding down a natural gully to the water side. The details of the routes of the steamers is given elsewhere, to which reference should be made. The Muskosli River Chain. LAKE MUSKOKA. This is one of the largest of the lakes comprised under the generic term of "The Lakes of Muskoka," being 22 miles long and 9 miles wide in its extremest points. It is the peculiarity of these lakes that they are so studded with islands that wide open reaches of rough water are scarcely to be met with. This appears to be less the case with Lake Muskoka than with any others ; but its greater size is the TSE NORTHERN LAKES Ojj CANADA. lOd only reason, for it teems with islets (as do all its companion lakes), having, in round figures, an island for every day in the year. Its beauties, in detail, are equal to any other lake, but its larger expanse, and the fact that many of its islands are of large size, and have been allowed, in earlier times, to be burned over, take from its pictur- esqueness. Yet the inhabitants of its islands and shores are enthusi- astic in its praises, and vaunt its features as being above all the others. In common with all the lakes of the district, it affords most splendid fishing. The shores are fringed with islands, and salmon- trout are successfully caught by trolling between them ; black bass and pickerel abound. One certain advantage it has in accessibility, being the most southerly of all the lakes, so that the visitor coming north arrives earlier and going south leaves later than from any other. But visitors to the Lakes of Muskoka must see, not one, but a/l the lakes ; and so we will start from the dock. To the left is the new village of IVesf Gra7>en/iursf, with busy sawmills, and all around the high bluff, granite rocks dipping steeply into the water, so that ample depth exists right alongside their face. Winding between Percy, Henry ^ Mary, and Daisy Islands , we enter another pool, and, after a little, slip through The Narrows, where there is bare room for the steamer to pass between the rocks, we enter the broadest part of the lake. On the west point is the light- house. Passing up the centre of the lake, on the east, are Kata^o, Ault- bowrie, and Whiti Islands ; while far off to the west are the island settlements of the Denison, Patton, and Moberly families. The largest island is Brownings Island, Next, Eilian-Gowan, the sum" mer house of Mr. Justice Gowan, comes in view, where art and love of landscape have been called in to assist the abstractiveness of Nature, and walks and drives, glades and grottoes, have been formed to make pleasant this holiday country home. Just opposite this, and winding through the reedy banks which line the shores and forming a sort of delta, are the two mouths of ]04 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. > a H O TBJS NOHTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 106 THE MUSKOKA RIVER. OS > a H o Entering by an abrupt turn the steamer winds its way up the tortuous channel. Unlike the bi.nks of all other rivers in Muskoka and all other parts, even of itself, the banks of the Muskoka River, between the entrance to the lake and Bracebridge, are soft alluvial deposits of much richness and great depth. The shores are lined to the water's edge with a profusion of rank vegetation and tangled roots of trees or toppled trunks, whose downward branches sweep the surface of the stream. The water is of a dark brown hue and, completely sheltered from the wind, its surface has an oily glassiness, wherein is clearly reflected every bough and li'.tle twig, or the white masses of summer clouds that float across the sky above. The river is full of sudden turns ; at times the prow appears to be headed direct for the opposing land, when with a sudden sweep the boat is turned al- most at right angles, and new vistas with their promontories bathed in sunlight and their cool recesses sunk deep into deeper shadow, come into view. For six miles turn succeeds to turn ; so narrow is the river that we see the surge from the steamer's wheels lay bare the shore, and boats must either be securely fastened to their stakes or else their anxious owners hurry down to keep them from being swept away by the re- current flood. At Alport, hard by the celebrated **Muniz Farm** where is the prize-taking herd of Muskoka cattle, we may deliver Her Majesty's mail, and by-and-bye the hills, which we have seen peeping through the vacancies in the forest that fringes the banks, close in, and at the very foot of the " North Falls " is the dock which forms the head of steamboat navigation. Bracebridge — The chief town of the Muskoka District, and, if not its geographical, yet most certainly its business and county centre. Starting in 1861 with two log huts and their attendant potato patches, and only a fallen pine tree for a bridge over the River, it advanced in 1866 to the proud pre-eminence of three bush stores and a tavern, 1' i 106 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. and now may be congratulated upon being a thriving town, with a stirring and fast increasing population, and possessing accommoda- tion for tourists and travellers' which retain it in its position of being the best starting point from which to explore the river district and to Mi wtieji fiCNOtu HIGH FALLS. obtain supplies necessary for the trip. It is true the railway now passes through Bracebridge and runs direct to points beyond, but nevertheless the town has obtained such a lead in its hotel and busi- ness advantages, that it will be advisable to continue to avail of them. with a imoda- f being and to TBE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. m ay now nd, but id busi- er them. There are five excellent hotels (see advt.), Anglican, Methodist, Presbyterian, and Roman Catholic churches. A Mechanics* Insti- tute and Library, and Masonic, and Oddfellows Lodges. The town is agreeably situ- ated on the cliffs surrounding the river, and the neighbour- hood merits some sojourn from the tourist to visit its interest- ing surroundings. At a distance of four miles, either by road or along the bank of the Muskoka river, are the High Falls. In the summer this group of three falls, which are divided from each other by two islands, are best approached from the right bank. Very little rock is to be seen in the advance to the river, but when it is reach- ed, the visitor, standing on a parapet one hundred feet above the basin, sees on the one side the rushing fall, and then in front from where the curving basin joins again the river bank, stretches out a long straight canal cut by nature's sou 1 11 I'ALLS-MUSKOKA RlViJ: ^ork with Steep walls of deep- est foliage hemming in its sides. But the chief attraction are the GREAT SOUTH FALLS. Above Bracebridge the river is divided into two great branches, each draining a large area of the country. These two unite in the 108 THE NORTBERN LAKES OF CANADA. neighbourhood of the town. The Falls of the North Branch are those which are seen from the steamboat landing, but their natural beauty has been sadly interfered with by the necessity of man for bread wherewith to feed, and home wherein to shelter himself and household ; thus grist and sawmills abstract the water, and lay bare part of the bed of the stream. THE UPPER LEAP— SOUTH FALLS. Having crossed through the town above the North Falls, a walk of about three miles brings one suddenly to the bridge which spans the upper ** chute" of the Great SouthFalls. In the level r^ THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 109 country, when nearing the river, there is nothing to give evidence of the approaching gorge ; and from the bridge, as from a perch high up above, we look downward over the mass of tossing, seething foam. It will be noticed that the river, in its descent of a hundred and thirty feet, makes two perpendicular leaps, joined together by upper and by lower pools, in which the waters boil and swirl between their successive rapid descents. To see the Falls to better effect it is well to clamber down over the rough and slippery crags to the foot of the torrent, about i,ooo feet down from the bridge. The best way, however, to approach this — the most commanding natural feature of Muskoka, and which if it existed in some Euro- pean country would be considered worth a pilgrimage to visit — is to take canoe down the river from Bracebridge. Shortly after passing Beardmore's Tanneries, the South Branch of the river is entered at a point where a small bridge crosses the entrance. It is a nice row or paddle of three miles to the foot of the Falls. There is one short reach of rapid water, which can be either poled up, or one hundred yards portage made. The flecks of foam floating by on the surface of the stream tell of the approaching change of level ; soon the voice of the mighty waters itself is heard ; and in a little while the whole cataract comes full into view. Then, passing through the circling white bells of the eddy foot, we step on shore. Looking up along the tumultuous snowing mass, the belts of spray at each successive fall hang over the several steps, and sometimes little rainbows enhance the scene. The water is torn into a whitened foam, here and there marked by deep brown streaks where, in deeper spots, it sweeps over some smoother stone. On either side rise the walls of spray-damped solid rock, fringed with young maples and feathered birch, while high above the dark green pines and age- browned bridge stand clear-cut out against the sky. To facilitate the bringing of the sawlogs down the stream, and prevent their being damaged as they used to be when making the passage of the Falls, the Government has constructed on one bank a 110 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. I! ** timber-slide," and down this the logs may be seen to run, and tumbling in quick succession, like so many porpoises, into the still wattrs of the river reach below. As to the geological action which has formed this cleft, it must, most probably, be classed with those caused by a " fault" or " fissure." '5^:iapi>7:^jV ' - -j-^ — '^ THE GREAT SOUTH FALLS. The abrading action of either frost or water has been very slight, there being nothing here as in the Gorge of Niagara, capable of be- ing loosened or undermined and the adamantine rocks on either hand repel any great abrasion. THS NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Ill un, and the still it must, fissure." The chasm is like a cleft, wide at the top and contracting towards th*^ water's edge, at one place to about fifteen feet. On the right bank (the left hand side looking up) a vast, almost perpendicular smooth dark, iron-coloured rock is intersected by lighfjr coloured seams, apparently mixtures of quartz and rosy feldspathic crystals. The other bank is different, for here crags of what resembles grey sandstone appear in company with others, dazzling the eye by their micaceous glitter. At the foot of the fall may be noted the bank of pebbles consist- ing of water worn stones, from the size of an egg to that of a man's head, of varied colours and all worn smoth — some being actually polished. Some very remarkable round pockets or cups may also be noticed in the rochs caused by the perpetual rubbing of the imprisoned stones. The basins of the torrent show plain signs of the laborious friction of the water and the attendant drift, but beyond these and the little bowls before noticed, the centuries have left but little mark upon the barriers of the falls. From Bracebridge expeditions may be made with facility to Bays- ville and the Lake of Bays, returning by canoe down the south branch of the Muskoka River, or to the pretty chain of Lakes Vernon, Fairy, and Mary returning from Port Sydney down the North branch, but these will be dealt with further on. LAKE MUSKOKA AGAIN. m ery slight, ble of be- on either From the mouth of the river, still keeping northward up the lake we pass close to the Birch and Wilson Islands. Along the high bluff banks may be seen the large encampments of summer visitors, some from other parts of Canada, over which will fly the deep red Union Jack, and others from our neighbours of the United States spreading to the air the more variegated Stars and Stripes. 112 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Some of these will have groups of eight and ten large tents and reverberating reports from guns will salute the steamer as it passes by 1-4 C3 O n "W O cs BEAUMARIS. This, the southermost of the summer resorts of Muskoka, is situ- ated oi> Tondern Jsland^ which, like its progenitor, Anglesea, is TH£! NORTBEBN LAKES OP CANADA, 113 separated from the mainland by a narrow channel, the Menai strait. The high square tower of the hotel forms an imposing landmark from all sides. Elevated well above the lake, and with broad continuous verandahs, the hotel is one of the most modern in this district. From the steamer it cannot be seen that in front of the west side is a well cared for tennis ground, or that the very freedom from surrounding obstruction affords unexampled island views extending all over the lake and giving a pleasant outlook from every window, while the shady verandah and free access of the breeze give the coolness so much sought for. The fishing in the neighbourhood is remarkable, and many long strings of bass grace the hotel kitchen. Tondern Island has many pretty nooks and bays. The bathing houses are on a nice sand beach near the hotel, and aff"ording per- fectly safe bathing for ladies and children. The circuit of the island can be made in a pleasant row of about three miles, passing through the Menai SUaits and around home again. Home, Fairhoim, and The Brothers Islands are close at hand For rainy days, and these will sometimes come even in Muskoka, the bowling alleys and bil- liard rooms in a separate house, close by the hotel, will aff"ord plea- sant recreation. Like all other Muskoka resorts, fresh air, fine fishing, bathing and boating, are the staple ingredients of the summer holi- day, and in opportunity for all these Beaumaris fully abounds. Mr. Prowse. the proprietor of the hotel, has a very large stock of excel- lent boats both for rowing and sailing {see advt) Point Kaye is the last point on the east shore of Lake Muskoka before entering the Indian River^ which forms the connection with Lake Kosseau. The village consists of only a few houses and a post- office. Immediately opposite Beaumaris, in sight from the hotel, and on the route which the steamer takes when crossing to the western side 1L4 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. of the lake, is a cluster of islands known as T/te KeUles^ with some- what of a maze or lab- yrinth in their many interweaving channels. Among these islands is found the very best bass fi 2 Falls the river widens again, forming powerful eddies, particularly at high water. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 117 )U, as I V morn- :er since ood and ik of it ; )le, who nywhere as I am oy your- islands, vtry ex- pened a better ds have ;es qave ,se, this e direct ny little , Black which, of the control bout 40 ng, as it cy ledge Tails the at high Strangers require to exercise extra precaution in the management of their boats or canoes below the portage until the disturbed waters are safely passed, which is only the work of a few minutes. Descending the river, amid beautiful scenery, are fine bass and pickerel fishing for a distance of about four miles. The channel here divides itself into two streams, the one called the Muskosh^ the other the Moon River^ and both discharging their waters into the Georgian Bay through mouths many miles distant from each otlier. Numerous falls and rapids interrupt navigation on both streams and no strangers should venture without experienced guides. At the above mentioned dividing point there is really splendid maskinonge fishing ; the fish are large and of the finest quality. Canoes can be taken down the Moon River to Georgian Bay and return made from there by the Crane and Blackstone Lake chains to Lake Joseph or Port Cockburn. (Jiee the route map.) Walker^ s Point and Tof ranee are hamlets and post offices on the west shore of Lake Muskoka, and in the neighbourhood of the Mus- kosh River. THE INDIAN RIVER. Having sailed up Lake Muskoka, we approach the Northern and upper end of the lake, and, threading our way through the Seven Sisters Islands — a cluster not far from Beaumaris — we then pass Jdlewildy One Trecy and Horseshoe Islands. On the right hand is seen Fairmount. Fairmount is situated one and a quarter miles from Point Kaye. on a pretty bay with a southern aspect, just at the entry of the Indian River. A few families can be accommodated by Mr. Butter, and three cottages can be rented furnished. The little Angli can Church of the Holy Cross nestles against the woods in the east corner of the bay ; service every Sunday. A sandy beach, sloping gradually down, furnishes periectly safe bathing for children. We now enter the converging channel of the Indian River. The banks rise high on either side, and the thickly wooded slopes throw 118 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. dark shadows at the rapid turns, widening out almost into a little lake — some good farms are to be seen upon the shore — and then narrowing up again after a sudden turn, we pass through a channel marked out with fir trees for buoys, and reach the prettiest part of the river. At four miles from Lake Muskoka is i -i ! I t I i •' PORT CARLING. This, of all the villages on the lakes, is the most important — being the most central. Being the converging point for all the steamers running to and fro on the three lakes, access to all parts can most conveniently be obtained from this centre, and frequent communi- cations be kept up with all. The Stratton House^ most excellently kept by Mr. John Fraser, is very commodious, and has an established reputation. Mr. Vanderbergh's comfortable hostelrie is favourably situated on the garden bank, and has a dock all to itself — {see adver- tisement). Boats and guides to all the fishing and sporting points obtained. There are also very good supply stores, kept by Mr. Wallls and Mr. Hanna — {see advertisement) — and three churches. On Sundays, row-boats will be noticed coming from all points, bear- ing the congregations to divine service Steam launches for visiting the lakes can be hired from Mr. Vanderbergh. At Port Carling the steamers pass through the locks which connect Lake Muskoka and Lake Rosseau, the latter being four feet the higher level. Transfer is made at the locks from the Lake Muskoka steamer to the side-service steamers running up the different lakes ; and tourists are recommended to look closely after their baggage themselves, for, however good any system of checking may be, errors will sometimes occur ; and it is little satisfaction either to see your trunk going away on the deck of another steamer, or yourself arriving at your destination to find that your baggage and all your comforts have been left behind. At this transfer point, therefore, have an eye to your baggage yourself. •■■"(■ '.^l: } I THE NORTHERN LAKEb OF CANADA 110 Leaving the village, perched on its picturesque and rugged rocks chind us, we enter a beautiful wooded basin, in which there is most xcellent fishings next passing a point which has been laid out for "nteriaken Park — a splendid grove for camping and picnicking, and ne of the few cases in Muskoka of happy nomenclature. Another turn brings us to the end of the river, and the southern end of the next lake. LAKE ROSSEAU. Where the lakes are of such exceedingly irregular form as are all the Lakes of Muskoka, lengths and breadths vary greatly, according to the place from which the measurements are taken. The tourist is usually familiar with lakes which, formed in hollows and basins, have some tolerable regularity of shape ; but these Lakes of Muskoka are unlike any others, being formed, not by any regular depressions of normal strata, but being the uphsj^'al of the old Laurentian sys- tem — the oldest geological formatir^a on the continent — which here alone thrusts its head up through the super-imposed masses. Hence the general elevation of the district, and the remarkable changes of shape in the coast lines. Jutting points, deep bays, sudden elonga- tions, and sharp changes of direction, follow quick upon one another, so that the course of the steamer is undergoing constant alteration, instead of proceeding in one general direction following along a somewhat similar shore. It is this constant change which affords such pleasure to the eye on the Lakes of Muskoka ; and though the component parts of the landscape shall be of the same — water, and rock, and tree — yet the ever-changing play of light and form con- stantly opens out new combinations in colour and beauty of which the sight never wearies nor the interest grows dull. Lake Rosseau is fourteen miles long in its extremest points. For distances between the several places on this and other lakes, mea- surements can be made on the maps, which are accurately drawn to a scale of 2 W miles to the inch. After leaving the Indian River, 120 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. the steamer for Lake Joseph diverges to the left, that for Lake Eosseau to the right ; and we will first follow up the eastern shore of the lake. Arthurlie Hottse, about two miles from Port Carling, is ensconced in Arthurlie Bay, whose entrance is guarded by a group of pretty islands. There is excellent bass fishing in Silver Lake, just behind the house. A GLIMPSE ALONG THE COAST. Brackenrig P. 0. lies at the foot of a deep bay. From here a short portage, one-quarter of a mile, can be knade to Brandy Lake, and thence by canoe down Brandy River to Lake Muskoka, near Point Kaye and Beaumaris. Leavmg Baker s, Bohemia, Vacuna, and Silver Islands, and others forming the group at the south pomt of the island. On a fine bay on THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 121 ?osseau e lake. :onced pretty behind ^1 ^ here a \> Lake^ a, near others bay on the west side of the island is Cloverport — a new and attractive sum- mer house. We now coast up the east shore of Big or Tobin's Island itself, with high rocks, and, in many places, woods to the water's edge. Windermefe is pleasantly situated on a small bay, four miles from Port Carling and ten miles from Rosseau, The " Windemere House,'' kept by Mr. Thos. Aitkens, has large accommodation, and increasing business testifies the appreciation of the past endeavours of the proprietor, who, like almost all the other lake-shore hotel- keepers on the lakes, is also the post master and express agent Hotel-keepers in Muskoka are not only expected to be ** Poo-Bahs in offices, but also in information as to all kinds of bait and fish, and where and how to get them. There are plenty of boats kept by the hotel and Mr. J. R. Boyd, and a good bathing place. " The Win- dermere Mechanics' Institute " has a capital reading room, with a very fair library. A specialty of the neighbourho^yd is the " Winder- mere Club," a company which has erected a number of pleasant lake-side cottages which can be rented or purchased, as not a few have been, by families who prefer to " keep house." The resident carpenter, Mr. Clinyboyle, makes repairs and looks after the cottages during the winter months. A very good market held weekly in the summer months, by the farmers in the neighbourhood, insures a cheap and constant supply of fresh provisions. Ministers of Methodist and Presbyterian churches resides in the village. Pleasant expeditions can be made from Windemere by row boat passing Florence Island, the residence of the celebrated actor *' Billy Florence," whose Colonel Sellers has become a prover- bial type of character, thence to the head of Portage j9«j',where there is a capital sandy beach. On going northwards past Norway Island to Dee Mouth with its saw mill at the outlet of Dee River. The mouth of the river is wide and a canoe excursion can be made up it to the Three-Mile Lake, a distance of ai out two miles with three portages, each of about one hundred yards. It is a pretty woodland vvalk of two [miles to 122 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. »i n Dee Bank from where canoeists can take water on the quaint-shaped THREE-MILE-LAKE. It may be interesting to note that of the township which contains this lake there is one acre of water to every three of land. There is excellent pickerel fishing in the lake, and its herrings, to be found in shoals near the rocks and banks later on in the fall, are quite famous. »•/ H ricx.s' I Qnttov ON THE SHORES OF LAKE ROSSEAU. There is no regular hotel, but the shores are ^well settled with thrifty farmers who v/ill welcome visitors. The scenery 'is much varied and at one point there is a most remarkable echo. EUa Is- THE NORTHERN LAKE8 OF CANADA. 123 aped t tarns ere is ind in mous. d with much 7/gether out of the materials to be found on the spot j others have called in more specially instructed aid, but none are at all pretentious. Comfori rather than display, simplicity and make-the best-of it seem to be the ruling influences among the " Muskokans." They are clannish in their upholding of the special beauties of the vicinity in which they are settled, but national in united assertion that there is no place like Muskoka. Hospitable they certainly are, and to ovet flowing, for when the steamer touches at their islands, and one sees the number of people and babies that run down to the dock, and the number of heads that pop out of the windows of the house itself, one wonders where they all put up, and whether some, like the Indians, wrap themselves in blankets and sleep beneath the spreading trees. But another turn of the wheel and the white ridge of a tent or the clus- tering poles of a wigwam, tell where the boys — and what boys the Muskoka boys are — have overflowed to make room for the welcome guests. This lower part of Lake Rosseau may well be called " Veneiiay^ for a boat is as necessary to a man as a pair of legs, and not in Venice itself are boats more used or needed. Whether it be to make a call on a neighbour, to bring the bread from the baker, or fuel for the fire, or fish for the pot, a boat is always put in requisition, so that the Muskokans might almost be considered an amphibious race. They all row, from the smallest baby upwards, and La Bcilt Cana- dienne^ who in winter has been seen in picturesque toboggan suit, with bright rosed cheeks, flushed by the keen vigour of her native air, will here be met again with those same ciieeks bronzed to a ruddy brown and handling the oars of her boat with all the grace and deftness of an adept. No wonder Canada's oarsmen lead the world ! Vive la Cafiadien7ie I On the south point of Tobin's Island is the new hotel, OaklaftdSf which, being just opposite to all the many islands of Veneiia, is sure to afford a pleasurable summer outing. Ferndale is an excellent hotel, kept by Mr. Penson, and on a pretty bay, into which the steamer turns. The summer-houses on 4*iJ 130 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, ■'liiilii;' li I jMIi^II.II!'": THE NORTHERN LARES OF CANADA, 131 i 1 r.'.' I 'A V£^ the high cliffs have before them one of the most beautiful views of the lakes, and the groves of oak and maple, the virgin forest of hard- wood trees in the rear, give opportunity for pleasant walks. The steamer then threads her way through the island homes of " Venetia." To the right is St. Leonard's Isle and the " Parson's Group," where the relatives of two reverend gentlemen of Toronto have established themselves, and clerical friends are right royally welcomed. On the left are in succession ^d^/V/t, Fairvieiv^ Summer sidc.Goiildings^ then Oak and F/ora, the pretty home of Dr. Hall, one of the earliest and most enthusiastic of the Muskokans. Still farther away, on the right. Cedar Tslandy the property of Mr. C. S. Warren ; then Mazengah, the home of the I) wights and Blatchfords, and Fairylands^ the Lilly homestead. Lastly we turn sharply round Olive Island, vvhere so deep is the water and sheer the rock that the steamer runs alongside without need of any dock. Here the Baldwins early found a happy resting place, and by practice, learned how to fell trees so that they should not fall, as did an early one they cut, squash down upon their newly erected house to its complete destruction. A mute protest, perchance, from the forest king against the innovations made into his realm. Passing the lofty headland of Eagles Nest^ the lake narrows up and we are soon in view of Port Sandfield. The steamer runs to and fro, calling at the different islands and also crosses to the northerly side of the lake. At about two miles is Cleveland's ; a summer boarding house is kept here, by Mr. Minnett, with excellent accommodation. Further down the shore, to the east, M'rs. Lawson takes boarders. Mr. Wood's boarding house at Fair- Vieiv-Farm is about a mile to the west, with a nice sand beach and dock, at which the steamers land. All these localities are in the vicinity of good fishing, and being a little out of the regular route, are perhaps more quiet and retired, and favourable arrangements can be made for short visits or lengthened stay. Gregory is just at the entrance of the Joseph River, has a post- office, and some of the residents in the neighbourhood will accommo- date summer visitors. »i THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. PORT SANDFIELD. Hi ,'V it; i- I 'J. I At one time a narrow spit, or bar, of sand, here separated Lake Rosseau from Lake Joseph, but in the interests of continuous steam- boat navigation ? canal was dug through it by the Ontario Govern- ment, and the new village which sprung up was named after the eagle's nest, lake rosseau. then Premier— the Hon. Sand field Macdonald— as the point where the junction was made betwe^^n Lakes Muskoka and Rosseau had been named after the then Commissioner of Crown Lands, the Hon. John Carling. Originally Lake Joseph was i^ feet the higher, THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 138 but now both lakes are o^ the same level. A lofty bridge, spanning the canal, keeps up the communication by road with Port Carling. o w H 03 > O M a On the top, or saddle, of the promontory, and with views extend ing east and west over both the lakes, is Prospect Bouse, kept by the characteristic Enoch Cox. So great is the desire to stay at this 134 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. favoured spot that although each year its capacities have been enlarged, until now there are rooms for 120 visitors, yet the cry is "still they come." Pleasant verandahs and shady groves covering the tops of rocky points, fifty and sixty feet above the level of ihe water, form pleasant lounging places. Bathing can be enjoyed from the rocks in an adjacent bay, or from the baihing-houses, which are situated on a pleasant sandy beach. Re i^-boats can be hirei from Mr. Cox by the day or week at low ratei, and the steam yacht, built, owned, and captained by Mr. John Rogers — the " hydrographer of the lakes " — leaves the hotel every morning for the points of interest in the neigh- bourhood, which enables visitors to take delightful excursions out of the regular track of the mail steamers. Special charters can be made on very reasonable terms. The belfry of the Anglican church will be seen near the hotel ; service is held regularly every Sunday. There are several cottages, which may be rented, and summer boarding-houses, in the vicinity — among them Rockhurst^ just on the opposite side of the bay, kept by Mr. G. C. Hazelwood, well situated and supplied with boats. There is a pretty walk through the woods, 1 3^ miles, to Port Carling. LAKE JOSEPH. This, the third of the series of the Lakes of Muskoka, was for a long time a mare iiicognitum except to the venturesome spirits, who, recking not the labour, rowed themselves up its length of fourteen miles, when the steamer used to be stopped by the natural barrier at Port Sandfield. It will be noted that the waters of all the other lakes and rivers of Muskoka are, although translucent and c'ear, yet of a dark or tawny hue, while, strangeiy enough, those of Lake Joseph are a clear white. Its islands, too, rise perhaps more abruptly, and to higher elevations, and more rugged cliffs line its shores, than do those of the other lakes. Backed by these peculiarities, the inhabitants of the Canton of Lake Joseph claim for it a beauty surpassing that of all the others. This at least may be granted, that it has characteristics, §uch ^s those mentioned, unique and peculiar to itself ; but so have ' THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 135 1 enlarged, " still they he tops of irater, form le rocks in uated on a Ir. Cox by wned, and b lakes "— the neigh- ions out of n be made :hurch will day. d summer just on the ill situated the woods, , was for a Dirits, who, )f fourteen ral barrier and rivers a dark or ire a clear to higher lose of the .nts of the that of all acteristics, ut so have all the lakes, and this is one of the inexhaustible charms of the Lakes of Muskoka district Very nice jaunts, with excellent fishing, can be enjoyed from Port* Sandfield. A row up Lake Joseph of three miles to Hemlock Point* and the lines having been cast in around the group of fish-named islands off the point, or on a row down Avon and Cumberland Bays will surely be rewarded by a good catch. Bass Lake is best reached by Rogers' steam yacht to Foot's Bay, a distance of about seven miles ; from here a portage of a quarter o[ i.AKE JOSEPil. a mile brings to the lake. Mr. T. Hamill, whose house is near by, keeps boats upon the lake, and is recommended for supplying guides. The lake is carefully preserved, and well stocked with fish. A very pretty round trip can be made by towing the row-boats behind the yacht up Lake Joseph, and past Fisher.^ Foster^ and Cani^ Islands, to the upper end of the Joseph River^ near by the prettily situated CraigieLea. From here the boats can be rowed down the river through channels too narrow and shallow for even the little steamer. A beaudful succession of changes of direction and sur prises follows, for a distance of three miles, to the exit into Lake Rosseau, near Gregory s. Two miles further, and the party is home again at Prospect House. The whole distance round can be rowed 136 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. II f m jf-;' by a vigorous oarsman in about five hours, or the journey can — as is most pleasant — be broken for the night at CRAIGIE-LEA. Before the cutting of the Port Sandfield Canal, this Joseph River was the only means of water communication between the lakes, and, being very tortuous, was available only for small boats. Nestled in behind the Ponemah Group of islands, and on a pretty projecting point of land, Mr. John Walls has placed his new hotel — (see adver- iisemtJit). The situation is most unique for quiet and retirement ; the surround- ing shores are all as Nature first, in simple beauty, deco- rated them with her un- erring hand ; and sheltered passages wind between the islands in con- stantly chang- - ing forms. Just in front is the particu- larly beautiful Cliff Island. Green slopes, looking in the distance as though of softest, smoothest turf, rise from the water's edge to the rounded top, about two hundrvjd feet in AROUND CLIFF ISLAND. height. Studded at intervals over these are regularly shaped groups of evergreens — the rich-toned Norway and the dwarf Northern pine. No landscape gardener ever posed his groups with more effective result ; nor could he, w).r,b. ail THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 137 ey can- ph River tes, and, estled in rejecting w adver- irement ; lurround- lores are 5 Nature in simple y, deco- them her un- hand ; heltered ^es wind en the s in con- "f chang- rms. particu- Island. in the softest, om the rounded 1 feet in ntervals h-toned ler ever wir.h all his art, attain to such unstudied loveliness as here exists. Just to the right of the hotel is the entrance to Little Lake Joseph^ sometimes fondly termed Little Joe. No settlers have yet occupied its untrodden shores, and there is splendid fishing in its waters. At the head of the lake — seven miles from Craigie-Lea — is the landing for the haif- viv\Q portage to Morgan's Bay, and thence three miles by water to Maplehurst and Rosseau. Resuming the direct route up the centre of Lake Joseph, from Port Sandfield the steamer calls first at Redwood, the admirably situated summer home of the Ardaghs. Leaving Foot'i. Bay on the left, we thread our way through the Ponemah Group, comprising the largest islands in the lake. On the shores of " Chief Island " is the home- stead of Herbert Mason, Esq. ; and on " Governors Island," a beau- tiful little islet commanding a lovely view over the length of the open lake, is the summer residence of the Hon. John Beverley Pobinson, the Lieutenant-Governor of Ontario. The shores stretch wider apart, and then comes another series called the Yo-ho-cii-ca-ba Group. A thoroughly Indian intonation would appear to attach to this name, with its constantly repeated vowel sounds, and one wonders as to what may be its native meaning. It is a revelation to be told that it was framed from the first sylhbles of the names of the first occu- pants of the largest island. Thus : — Yo Ho Cu Ca Ba Professor Young. W. H. Rowland. Montgomery C'lriiming. Professor Campbell. James Bain. This group are as largely populated as any parts of the lakes ; and the Sunday services, held in a natural amphitheatre on " Yoho/' as the principal island is lovingly called, have acquired a provincial celebrity from the standing of the preachers who have officiated at them, under the canopy of the forest trees. Mr. McMurrich's completely-developed island, where the Marquis of Lansdowne, Governor-General of Canada, sojourned in 1885, is i ;;il:i 138 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. passed on the left ; then McLellan^s and Wahneshing^ and the lofty Equity Crest. After the beautifully-shaped Round Islandy we enter the last bay, and come into view of the end of the trip in this direc- tion. PORT COCKBURN. This is the head of navigation of Lake Joseph. Upon a high cliff, and surrounded by a beautiful grove of second growth oak and maples, so that only the gables can be seen, is the Summit House, well kept by Hamilton Fraser, now the largest house in the district. Between the trees and on the sides of the roclcs id the lofty idi we enter n this direc- h oon a high THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 130 .i^ growth oak the Summit irgest house of the rocks where convenient nooks give opportunity, are swinging hammocks and rustic seats, and from the ample height and pleasant shade, a lovely view overlooking the island-studded lake can be most full) giasped and thoroughly enjoyed. The steamer lands at the foot of the stairways leading up to the hotel. Near by is seen the Island Park^ where a grove has been set out with winding path" and a bridge built to connect the island with the main land. On the other side of the hotel is a splendid bathing house and sheer recks from which the bolder ones can spring into fifty feet of water. The ubiquitous Ditchburn Bros, here again appear with a full line of excellent row boats, from small ones for those with whom " two is company and three is none " to the large family ark wherein the good-natured Father, having stowed his substantial partner together with all their merry flock of chattering youngsters, can swelter at the unaccustomed oar in full enjoyment of his summer holiday of rest About fifteen minutes* row from the hotel are the celebrated " Echo Rocks " where in the mysterious moonlight hours weird repetitions may be evoked. *' Hark ! how the gentle echo from her cell, Talks through the cliffs and murmurmg o'er the stream Repeats the accents " we-shall-part-no-more." — Akenside. It is a pretty trip also to " Hawk's nest," and to the little bay and portage to Byers Lake. Post and telegraph offices in the hotel ai\d a large room for con- certs and dancing ensure plenty of amusement for the summer evenings. Port Cockburn is the centre of a great many fishing resorts to which access can from it most conveniently be obtained. Guides and canoes can be arranged for with Ditchburn and bait provided. Lake Joseph abounds with black bass, pickerel and large salmon trout obtained by deep trolling. Within a radius of six miles from the Summit House, there are some forty little lakes, some reached by driving and many by walks 140 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. through the " bush," and in the tributary streams brook trout are often canght weighing i}4 pounds. The Seguin River Chain begins a few miles back from here and comprises a complete chain of lakes and river to Parry Sound on the Georgian Bay. White Fish, Clear, Turtle, Star and Isabella are the principal ones, and in all black bass and trout abound. Blacksione and Crane lakes, which are five miles off (see the route map to Moon River), may best be described by taking the statement of Battelle in the Toledo " Po; " .• *' The shores of Crane and B'pci stone Lakes are capital specimens of the primitive wilderness, an(i i -i.i^ ^ay they so continue. The few who have visited their teeming wato have mostly been genuine fishermen who are happiest when far away from conventionalities and habitations. But one clearing broke the majestic sweep of the grand old forests, within the sheltered bays the loons laughed undisturbed, and the wild birds splashed in the marshy edges or upon the sandy shores with none to molest or make them afraid. " We were out for maskinonge, and took no account of either black bass or pickerel. It seems strange to talk of shaking off black bass and making disrespectful remarks about these gamy gentry when they insisted in taking the hook, but they were so plenty as to be really troublesome. "When an angler goes forth to catch the maskinonge it is necessary to be ^careful lest the maskinonge should catch him. The native method of taking the maskinonge in the primeval waters of Canada is by a small clothes line, hauled in by main strength when the fish bites, but we proposed to troll, as should an angler, with the rod. Ours were split bamboo rods 9J feet long, quadruplex reel, and braided linen line, two feet of medium sized copper wire, a No. 4 spoon with double hooks, and finally a good gaff. ** Our guide, as we started over to Crane Lake the first morning, in- dulged in sundry smiles and remarked that we should break our rods, so that, although placid in outward mien, I felt inwardly a little ner- vous, but I didn't mean to back down until compelled, i : trout are n here and und on the ella are the Blackstone te map to itement of [ specimens The few in genuine lalities and f the grand ndisturbed, 1 the sandy ither black black bass mtry when ;y as to be is necessary rhe native of Canada len the fish th the rod. I reel, and e, a No. 4 noruing, in- ik our rods, a little ner- TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 141 " Swinging around a little poiuc, with some twenty yards of line astern, before fishing a great while I felt a sudden movement at the spoon that was more like a crunch than a bite. It took only a second to give the rod a turn that fixed the hooks and another sec- ond to discover that T had hung something. Scarcely had I tighten- ed the line when the fish started. I do not know that I wanted to stop him, but I felt the Hne slip rapidly from the reel as though at- tached to a submarine torpedo. The first run was a long one, but the line was longer, and the fish stopped before the reel was bare. This was my opportunity and I had the boatman swing his craft across the course, and reeling in the slack line, I turned his head towards the deeper water. Forty-five minutes of as pretty a fight as one coi d wish to see left my new acquaintance alongside ai. 'oat, and before he recovered his surprise the gaff was in his gi ' i ai the boatman lifted him on board. " He weighed fourteen pounds on the steelyards and wa" m heaviest fish. There were other encounters of a similar .' raster, but none quite so protracted ; but I wouldn't be afraid ot the largest veteran in the lake, and all fishermen, who aim for sport, will assured- ly troll with the rod. Our time was limited, far too short, and in a word, a day and a half on Crane Lake gave us, without counting bass, ten maskinonge whose weight aggregated no pounds, (on the scales) an average weight of ii pounds per fish." THE MOON RIVER. The lower reaches of these famed waters, where they enter the Georgian Bay, can conveniently be attained by the route of these lakes as shown on the detailed map, or, having descended the river by canoe from Lake Muskoka at Bala (the easier mode), return can be made by them to Lake Joseph, at Port Cockburn. The fishing scores in the Moon River, particularly maskinonge, are of the heaviest, and some giants have been hooked. This expedition should not be attempted without good guide? and ample camping equipment and supplies. \ii 1 i 'J 142 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. .•"J 1 * I'M 1 ') . .f The New Railway. Gravenhurst to Lake Nipissiiig. Having followed the shores of the'groiip of the Big Trio and traced their waters to the outfall by the Muskosh and Moon Rivers^ we will strike further inland to the newer districts which are now opened out for convenient access by the new extension of the railway through their midst. Starting afresh from Gravenhurst (page loi), the rail- w..y strikes inland along the shores of Gtill Lake, and after crossing the south branch of the Muskoka River, reachen Brace/^ru/i^e {ioj/( miles). (The mileages here and afterwards mentioned are mileages from Gravenhurst.) Here the iron bridge spans the stream above the very midst of the Falls — a strange situation ; but the defiles through which railways in this district may be constructed are exacting, and their behests must be obeyed, however, unusual the forced selections. Still keeping in the valley alongside the river at about two miles beyond Bracebridge, a very pretty view is obtained, on the right of Elliott's Fads, Utterson (24 miles) — Connection can be made from here by good waggon road to Skeleton Lake ox else to Three Mile Lake, and by either route convenient voyage made by their waters to those of Lake Ros- seau, not far from Windermere. Two and a half miles to the east by road is Port Sydney^ at the southern end of Mary Lake, to which we 'will make a visit farther on. After a passing glimpse at Little Round Lake, the train arrives at Hjmtsville (35 miles). This is an important tourist point, as here connectioii is made with a new chain of lakes, whose waters may be followed, either west to their source, or east and south until they are drained by the Muskoka River. The village is progressing, and will, no doubt, soon have its full share of the increase business which the railway now brings to its doors. Jacob's Hotel, Gilchrist's and Birtch's Hotels, are mentioned here. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANAl>A. 143 The iHuskoka Itiver €liaiii. md traced s, we will pened out Y through I, the rail- jr crossing id ge{io% t mileages idst of the ailways in lests must ceeping in acebridge, • e by good 1 by either Lake Ros- ney^ at the farther on. arrives at It, as here rs may be :il they are J, and will, which the nd Birtch's WESTWARD TO THE HEAinVATKRa. Alongside the railway station will be found the steamboat dock, at which can be taken, for the trip up the lakes, the steamer Northern, Captain Denton. Should our voyagcurs, however, have so prepared themselves, and intend to start off on one of tiie many canoeing trips which radiate from here, their traps and camping equipment will be quickly packed away, and soon " Their bark is on the sea." After about three miles of open river navigation, Lake Vernon is entered. On the right bank will be seen where the waters of the Upper North Brancli enter the lake. Hood's Island is ])assed on the left, and, the lake widening out again, the village of Ravensdijf is called at. Here enters the stream which brings down the waters of Loon and Long Lakes. At 9 miles the lake ceases ; and wc arrive at the head of steamboat navigation in this direction. HOODSTOWN. The town is situated at the outlet of the upper waters, and a splendid water-power has been formed, which, no doubt, some day will turn some busy wheels, if its owner will only allow it to be used. There is a waterfall of about 40 feet in height over the mill-dam. The Albion Hotels kept by J. G. Henderson, and the McCallum House are spoken of as good hostelries. There are good roads in the neigh- bourhood, and a large adjacent population. Near by, and rising abruptly above the plain, is Mount Ararat. The bluff is 500 feet above the highest parts of the land ; its top is flat, and if the Ark did not stop here it may at least have touched. From the summit the wood-clad landscape may be seen, waving for miles around, in billows of massy green fading into distant blue, Ii4 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, and upon its front, set like so many precious gems, are to be counted the surfaces of fifteen little lakes, reflecting in their rippling waters the bright rays of the summer sun. Having examined the neighbourhood, the trip to the head waters of the cliain is recommenced. It is a short portage through the town from Zal:e Vernon to the foot water of JFox Lake^ so called from the shape of its shores taking a figure very much the outline of a fox. It is about three miles to the narrows, between the body and the tail. At the end of the lake the Buck River is entered. The river runs smooth and deep, between 30 and 40 feet wide. The banks are steep and high, showing signs of excellent soil, and there are many picturesque turns in the route of five miles. There is one short rapid which going up must be passed by n portage of 100 yards, but com- ing down can be run with safety. Next is entered Buck Lake^ six miles long and of narrow but varying width. On its shores is llfra- combe with saw and grist mills, and the centre of an English colony of high county standing and much cultivation. The pretty Anglican church is well maintained, and as far as can be, brings back fond memories of services in the ivy-clad fanes of the fatherland. At the head of the lake a small stream is entered, and after one mile access is made to Rowtd Lake, itself 2 ^/^ miles long. Another stream nearer the foot of Buck Lake leads by a route of about six miles, in which there is one rapid, which must be portaged both ways, to Axe Lake, itself 2^ miles long. These two lakes, Axe and Round, are the head waters in this direction of this chain of lakes. From Huntsville to here (26 miles) row boats can be used ; and there is no better or safer line of route for a pleasant camping and boating trip, combining both lake and river accessible to all. Throughout these upper waters and in the tributary streams there is excellent trout fishing. Our voyageur will either return from here, or, if his equipment permit its transport, may make a portage of three miles over the water-shed which here forms the dividing line, and embark his craft upon the waters of Doe Lake, a tributary to the be counted ; waters the lead waters ih the town ;d from the 3f a fox. It ,nd the tail. e river runs 3 banks are re are many short rapid is, but com- :k Lake J six ires is J//ra- ;lish colony IS far as can fanes of the ntered, and miles long. r a route of be portaged o lakes, Axe his chain of in be used ; ant camping e to all. treams there n from here, tage of three ng line, and utary to the THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Ilo headwaters of the Miv^aneteivan River. Proceeding down this for nine miles he will join the railway again at Katrine (55 miles). And in penetrating to the interior all this may here be found, but without the necessity of going too far away from the centres of habi- tation. (( There is a pleasure in the pathless woods, There is a rapture on the lonely shore, There is society where none intrudes." i.t V: 146 T^iJ NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, "ii : t i.\ Down Stream to Bracebridge, By the North Branch. From Himtsvihe the voyageur returning down the river to join the railway again at Bracebridge, or farther on at Gravenhurst — has two routes open to his choice the one by the Norths the other by the South branch of the Muskoka River. In taking the first, the steamer can be availed of, passing through the pretty Fairy Lake, (five miles) and then the river again is entered. For the furtherance of navigation, a lock has been constructed by the Ontario Government, near Fetterley's and by this means, after three miles more of river navigation, winding and re-winding through- out, the next lake of the chain is reached. Mary Lake is one of the gems of Muskoka ; many neat residences with clearings of some extent adorn its shores. Its surface is stud- ded with many islands, where ' ^mes of various kinds are plentiful in tVie season, and afford delightful places for pic-nics and camps. At the foot of the lake, upon a gentle elevation overlooking its length, is Port Sidney. The village contains the Sydney Hotel, where there is excellent accommodation provided by Mr. Jeff Avery. A good supply of boats is kept and pleasant trips can be made upon the ro- mantic little lakes. From Port Sidney, return to the railway can be made by two and a half miles drive to the station at Utterson. For those who do not venture on small boating or canoeing, the steamboat route between Hoodstown and Port Sydney, upon the " Little Trio," Vernon^ Fairy and Mary, will make a very pretty excursion and give additional zest to the enjoyment of the larger and more well-known lakes. Those, however, who do " canoe," can take the Muskoka River from Port Sydney, and er joy the unique sensation of "running a rapid." In the route of fifteen miles to Bracebridge, there are some o*" • ■ join the Hirst — has ; other by g through again is tructed by sans, after g through- residences ce is stud- » e plentiful camps. At its length, ^here there A good )on the ro- ^ay can be "•son. loeing, the upon the ery pretty larger and oka River running a ire some o^ r- 1 Bj Rivfv ( o t^faccbridqr LA K ES -^vi:knox faik> maky PT'MXSiLA ^^»> I.AKK ^^ BAYS DRAWN FO R The Northern LaKes of Canada" ScALt 2'i Miles = I Inch J. R otin. r'J J - k ! .! vi!;. -i THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 147 the rapids which it is not safe to run, but which must be portaged. The entrances to all are well marked so that a watchful eye will keep the canoe from danger It will be best to leave in the morning and then the run through can be made in the day By the South Branch. The other choice of route in returning from Huntsville is confined to canoeists. Passing easterly through the length of Fairy Lake, a narrow is entered, in which are two portages, each of one hundred feet length on the right or south bank, and thus access is obtained to Peninsula RUNNING A RAPID— MUSKOKA KIVF.R. Lake. On'the north shore is Grassmere post-office, and a .he south- east end (seven miles), a portage of ij miles brings ' the Lake of Bays. The convenience of a waggon will easily be r' tained from some neighbouring settler. Thence to Baysville, at t _ foot of the lake, is twelve miles, and from there, twenty-five miles by river to the south branch of the Muskoka to Bracebridge. Some jeople may prefer to go up stream, so we will start with them from Bracebridge- It may be well for the canoeist who is making his first acquaintance with these river waters, to begin by'going up stream, as i. i will thus 148 TEE NORTHER]^ LAKrJf, OF CANADA. become acquainted with the indications of rapids, and by no chance run himself into danger. The South Branch of the Muskoka is the starting point for some of the best fishing districts of Muskoka, among others are Walter^ s Creek, Holloiv Lake, Wood Lake, Sharp's Creek, — all celebrated for their brook liout. A stage runs regularly from Bracebridge to Baysvillc (i6 miles), leaving on arrival of the mail trains and arriving in the evening. Leaving Bracebridge by water, the tourist can either descend the Muskoka River by canoe to the " River Forks," thence up the South Branch to the foot of the " Great South Falls," where the first port- i '%■ i p; i y' i MAKTXO A rORTACIE— MUSKOKA RIVKR age must be made, or, bringing the canoes and camping equipment by v/aggon, can at this same point commence the ascent of the river. The stream is r; pid, and several portages must be made during the first day. At some the baggage is carried round by land and the canoes poled up the rapid ; at others, the Indians shoulder tiie canoes, thus presenting the appearance of huge snails. At ** Rocky Portage" good ground is found for the first " camp." On the second day, " Island Portage " is reached at noon, and " Gravelly Rapids " for the night. At both of these points there is good trout fishing. no chance oka is the Muskoka, kCy Sharp's (i6 miles), ming. ascend the the South : first port- i'-T"' :- '•■'■ equipment :ent of the ide during id and the oulder tlie i ** Rocky the second y Rapids " »ut fishing. TH£ NORTtiERN LAKES OF CANADA. 149 On the third day " Cedar Rapids " are passed, and at the '* Upper Falls " near Baysville, the best camping ground is found. The river liere runs fast, tumbling down in rocky rapids, and the best speckled ^rout fishing afforded. Baysville, on the river and i)^ miles from the entrance to the lake, is a capital resort for the tourist and the sportsman. Those who are on the round trip will find it about a day's canoeing from the " Upper Falls," to the camping ground at the portage to Peninsula Lake ; from thence they can proceed, as previously described. There are good local supply stores in the town, and arrangements for steam- boat trips on the lakes can he made with Capt. Huckins. Jelly's Hotel ; the Norfolk House, kept by Mr. Howard, and Keeler's Hotel are mentioned liere. LAKE OF BAYS. Tiiis is the largest of the lakes which are tributary to the Muskoka River, being about 20 miles in length. In width it is eccentric and fully deserves its name. There are not manv islands in it, but it is superlative in jutting points, clad witi. ihe dark green outlines of the finest pine timber. Canoeists who are exploring its shores, had better, after taking the south east trip towards Dorset, return north by Haystack Bay, and make the short portage to North East Bay. As not having been so accessible, the shores of its deep clear waters remain more in the state of nature than any ether. Nei- ther the settler's axe nor the fires of careless camping parties have denuded the banks of their leafy coverings. CAMP ilRES. How earnestly it is to be wished, that all who light " camp-fires " would be watchful to see that all sparks are perfectly extinguished. Oftentimes it will appear to the eye that no fire remains, but under- neath, in the dry mossy ground, a "smudge" still e.Jsts to burst long after into flame, and spreading slowly through the roots and undergrowth to do infinite damage. 160 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. ; \ Never light a fire except upon bare rock or bare ground — if on the latter, remove all neighbouring moss, so that the fire cannot by any means spread. Always before leaving put the fire out, deluge the place with water and cover it with dry earth. Be careful that none of the charred and unburned sticks retain any fire. Not only for the sake of beauty do this, but also for the sake of the settlers and the lumber- men, whose "all" may be lost by your care- lessness, for sometimes a small camp-fire fanned by the winds will run for miks and destroy i\ whole forest. The streams falling in- to this lake are inter- spersed with rapids and waterfalls which form ^1^*^ home and harbour for many speckled trout. It is somewhat peculiar to note that this class of fish seems to be almost restricted in this section BRINGING HOME THE CATCH. to the ncighbourhood of this lake, and running often up to three or four pounds weight. White fish and salmon trout are found in the lake itself. Hollow, Fletcher and Hardwood Lakes are all on the eastern branch of the main lake and noted for their trout. Under the name of Trading Lake^ these waters have attained renown, and this name is still id — if on cannot by with water arred and r the sake this, but ke of the e lumber- 'all" may I'our care- sometimes fire fanned will run destroy :i s falling in- are inter- rapids and lich form arbour for d trout. It peculiar to is class of be almost his section ourhood of ds weight. Hollow^ ich of the Df Trading ne is still TBE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 151 retained at the eastern extremity. A little further to the east is a lake whose name may be managed by those who have survived the little stream north of the Severn — Lake Kahweamhetewayamo::;. Captain Huckin's steamers Dean and Excelsior, the latter a capital new one of seventy-five feet keel, keep up the communications be- tween Baysville and tlie post-offices and settlements around the lake. At North East Bay, near Dwight Post-office, the continuation of the river enters the lake. Upon its waters are strung out a long series of little lakes, all affording good sport, among them Ochtivan (or Ox Tongue), Canoe, island, Big Joe and other lakes By this chain there is a canoe route which has been already followed by several parties which, arriving at the bead waters of the Muskoka, make a short portage to the Petewaiva and Aladawaska Rivers, thence down to the 0,'fawa River, — a round trip of much attractiveness and variety. Go die's Hotel dX Dwight, will make a good headquarters — and a ready welcome be assured to all good sportsmen. The district around Lake of Bays is most highly esteemed for its deer hunting, the best of duck and partridge shooting,— indeed, whether for rod or gun the visitor is sure of ample employment. Here- abouts are to be found " The happy hunting grounds of the Dwight- Wiman Sporting Club." Their names have become localized, and here for rest and recreation, zest and fresh energy comes annually that ardent Canadian, Erastus Wiraan, whose successes in the United States seem only to intensify his affection for his native land. A good example gives he to the young Canadian. From Goldie's, a line of excellent lakes run north, all full of sport, Cooper, Devil's Angle, Long, Little Twin, Big Twin, Crotch, Poverty ^ Buck and Clear, all communicating by short portages. Good sport, canoes and guides who know where the best fishing spots are, and trained dogs accustomed to the vicinity for hunting, are all necessary. The names of the best men, well-known and reliable from having already conducted fishing and hunting parties through this district, are given in the list of guides. Mr. W. H. Brown, of Baysville, is also referred to as an obliging correspondent. 162 THE NORTHERN LAKE^ OF CANADA. 1 I ■; Tlie .Ma^uiietcwau River €liaiih Leaving Hunts ville, the railway crosses the Muskoka river near Melissa (39 miles), and then surmounts the water shed, during which several streams are followed, and the acute eye will note when those that run south are left and those that run north are met. Katrine (55 miles), Morton's Hotel. — This is the centre of a splendid U.ke country. Sand, Beaver, and Long Lakes, on tiie South Magancte'ivan River, Three Mile and Doe Lakes close by. Here, as noted previously, connection is made with the Maganetewan River, and canoes or light boats can be taken for the water trip to Hunts- ville. The railway continues following the banks for four miles, dur- ing which the river is crossed four times, the next station is Biirizs Falls (60 miles). — This station opens up another and en- tirely new region to steamboat navigation to the tourist and the tra- veller, and particularly to the sportsman, who can now get with com- paratively little trouble to a district which has hitherto been accessible only to those with ample means and time. This chain of lakes and the Maganetewan River is just equidistant between the Muskoka and Nipissing chains of waters, and drains a surface of about 4,000 square miles. Some idea may therefore be gathered of its magnitude, and of the possibilities for canoeing, opened up by the ramification of the numerous tributaries and their attendant lake enlargements. The very heart centre for sport for rod and gun, its rivers and lakes can be ascended and descended in canoes and boats amid the best of sport, while the eye is fascinated by the fresh, unsullied wildness of its forest haunts. Wild birds and deer abound. Sp.eckled trout are caught weighing 3 to 5 lbs. ; bass, 5 to 8 lbs. ; pickerel, 8 to 14 lbs. " Music," in Forest and Stream, thus speaks of the Maganetewan : " Now a word about the repon. If a man can stand out-door life, and live on venison, trout, bass, partridges, ducks, pork, tea and crackers, there is no better place to go to in America that is as ac- cessible. A man can go there in July, August, September, or Octo- be cat for at ut I se ba go pa sti river near ing whicli hen those ntre of a tlie Soutli Here, as an River, to Hunts- niles, dur- is r and en- id the tra- with corn- accessible lakes and skoka and 300 square tude, and tion of the 1 and lakes ;he best of ness of its trout are to 14 lbs. metewan : :-door life, :, tea and ,t is as ac- , or Octo- THE NORTUERN LAKESiOF CANADA. 153 ber with comfort, if he will go in the right way, and shoot deer and catch trout to his heart's content. June to August for tioiit, after that for deer. Remember the Maganetewan is as large as the Schuylkill at Philadelpiiia, or considerably wider and deeper than the Harlem ut High Bridge, and that the trout have an unlimited range, and are THE hunter's camp. seldom disturbed, so that they have a chance to grow. Deer can be bagged in great] numbers if you choose to do so ; with a couple of good hounds magnificent sport could be had in the fall. I have shot partridges with my rifle from the canoe while travelling, as they were strutting on the '^hore, and their * drumming ' was one of the plea- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I lit 140 1^ • ||||l.25 111.4 1.6 < 6" ► % ^;i ^^ f. V '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STRCET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SI0 (716) 873-4503 m i\ .^\^ o ^ ^J'^y^ '^>^ > i\ m * 154 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. santest every-day sounds. Do not try to go without some guide, /here are men who know the country, and they should be secured, for if you get in there alone, you will have little sport and much trouble. I have no possible interest in noticing this region except that I believe it to be unsurpassed in many ways." The village of Burk's Falls stands upon the banks of the main Maganetewan (" the smooth flowing water "), at the head of steam- boat navigation, and about half a mile below the forks of the river where the two great north and south branches join. The station is half a mile from the town, in which are several good stores and three l??^KS^5S LAKE AH-MIC. country hotels — D. F. Burk's, Trimmer's, and the Cataract House, by W. F. Thomson. From here can be taken daily the new combined paddle and s<;rew steamer Wenonah, of the Muskoka Navigation Company. For fifteen miles the river is followed, winding to and fro, as all Muskoka rivers seem to do. Lake Seseebe forms the next link for ten miles, at the foot of which is the thriving town oi Maganetewan. Here the Great Northern Colonization road crosses the river and a centre for the surrounding districts has been formed. There are two hotels, Maga- >ome guide, be secured, ; and much ;gion except of the main id of steam- of the river he station is es and three THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 155 t House, by w combined Navigation d fro, as all t link for ten ewan. Here 1 a centre for lotels, Maga- netewan House, by S. B. Fish ; Northern House, by Mr. Carroll. A number of stores form a particularly good headquarters during the hunting season. After passing through the locks, the steamer continues for three miles more in the river, and then enters the \o\Q\y Lake Ah-Mic. This is another of the gems of Muskoka ; most quaint in form, its arms and elongations form a very maze of interlacings, so their constant vistas of projecting heights with glimpses of distant waters and high ridges with closely-wooded forests of hard wood trees, give soft rounded out- lines to the distant scenery. In summer this combination of the rich greens of the maple, oak and birch, is most beautiful, but when in autumn the bright red tints show forth their resplendent colours, it is simply indescribable. The lake is twelve miles in length, and calling places are not yet very numerous. The Depot Farm, now called Port Anson, Thomas Baldock's Hotel, and Ah-Mic Harbour with Croswell's Hotel may be mentioned as attractive points where travellers will find very fair ac- commodation, at the end of his forty mile trip from the railway station. This is also another excellent route for boating, as there are no rapids to interfere or portages to make while a nice diversity of pad- dling or rowing in the rivers is interspersed with sailing on the lakes. The camping facilities are good, and not a few farm houses will give ready supplies and shelter. The pioneers who have penetrated to this coiintry and settled on its lake shores are all sportsmen, and boats and canoes and skilful guides, whose wood craft has been learned by long practice on their own account, can be found everywhere. From here on, the more adventurous can continue their canoe route by the Great River, twelve miles to Lake IVah-iva-kesh, and thence to Byng Inlet, about fifty-five miles away on the shores of the Georgian Bay. In this distance there are 21 portages, of varying lengths, from one of some two miles, to most of only a few yards. Their combined length is about eight miles, leaving 42 miles of good canoeing water. It is a trip not to be attempted without first-class guides. These portages made there are few difficulties to be overcome, and in good hands these form only the sources of adventure for which the trip is undertaken. 166 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. The 8e$(uiu Chain. Dunchurch, a village three and a half miles by road from Ah-Mic Lake, is on the shores of Whiie.^one Lake^ another of the celebrated centres for sport in fin and fur. The herring fishing in the narrows is most excellent, and the hunting and shooting of the best. From here return can be made in another direction by taking the colonization road, 9)^ miles, to the village oi McKellar^ which is the centre of another lake system. Here the canoe can again be put in the water and following the Seguiti River and its enlargements, Lakes Maniiowaba, Troiit^ and Mill^ can with facility arrive at Parry Sound ^ on the shores of the Georgian Bay. There are only three portages in the whole distance, one of half a mile, and two of one mile each ; there are also three very short lifts. The other following the eastern arm of Lake Matiitowaha portage 2 ^ miles to Blackwater Lake, and then canoe through the connecting Lake Isabella past the village of Edg- ington into Maple Lake and Marsh and Star Lakes, and so portage again half a mile to Turtle P. O. on Turtle Lake, close to Port Cock- burn on Lake Joseph. Neither of these routes present very great difficulties, as they are almost entirely lake work. These samples give some idea of the possibilities of navigation in the many connecting waters of the Muskoka District, and what a wealth of exercise and adventure lies before the youth of Canada. The French Kiver €hain. Sundridge (70 miles), the next point of any importance, is on the shores of Stony Lake, the summit water of the south slope of the district being 268 feet above Lake Muskoka, The lake is shallow, very regular in form, without any islands, and abounds in fish. South River (77 miles) is the first crossing of the new watershed, where the waters run north to Lake Nipissing. It is the highest irom Ah-Mic e celebrated the narrows 2St. y taking the which is the ,in be put in nents, Lakes ^arry Soutui, ; portages in ; each ; there eastern arm ike, and then lage of Edg- id so portage D Port Cock- as they are lavigation in and what a Canada. ;e, is on the slope of the is shallow, fish. watershed, the highest THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 167 point on the railway, and the dividing line between the two water- sheds, being 378 feet above Lake Muskoka, and 553 above Lake Nipissing. One must suppose that this is called the "South" River because it runs " north " on the same principle as that given by Pat concerning the different Irish jaunting cars, on one kind of which the passengers sit back to back with their feet over the wheels, and the other face to face with their feet inside the car. "Oh, I dunno at all, but I suppose they call it an outsyde kyar becase the whales is insyde, and it's an insyde kyar becase the whales is outsyde." Mr. Holditch keeps the hotel, the "Ontario Height of Land House," and intends putting up an observation platform in Moose Park, from where eight lakes can be seen in a circle of five miles. The Dunbars Falls of the river are worthy a visit, being 150 feet high. The river itself is from 150 to 200 feet in width, and a good canoeing stream. It is 24 miles paddle to Lake Nipissing, during i which some rapids, but not very fast, are passed. The speckled trout in the river are the largest and most plentiful anywhere this side of Nepigon, and in the hunting season moose aje met as well as large numbers of the red deer. It will be noticed that for some little time the appearance of the country has changed and the land im- proved. All through this latter part of the railway, immigration is beginning, and fine fertile farms with soil as good and opportunities bettvir than the frontier farms of thirty years ago, will here be carved out of the forest. A certain market to the lumberman, and now easy access to the front country will settle up the better parts of this district. Barretts (92 miles), is the centre of a large and thriving settle- ment, and another unexcelled centre for brook trout fishing and for moose and deer hunting. Commanda is fifteen miles west by road from here, or can also be most conveniently reached by the regular stages running daily from Maganetewan (see page 154). This section has been deservedly awarded the highest renown for the record of its sport. Being some- what remote, but now brought into more convenient access, the banks 168 THE NOBTEERN LAKES OF CANADA, of the streams and of the lakes are more completely in the state of nature than elsewhere, and for miles unbroken forest hems in the view. Following up the Great Nipissing Colonization road from Maganetewan, about halfway is Megafioma.—\y^Q have struck the trail]. Russell & Archer's hotel here is absolutely first-class, kept by good caterers and ardent sports- men. This is the centre for Eagle Lake^ Many Island^ Spring and Pickerel Lakes, and Distress River, — all celebrated fishing and hunting spots and comprised in what is known as the Commanda District. Rye is also a good centre. The stages stop for dinner at Wm. Park's hotel. At Commanda itself Carr's Temperance Hotel and Fitzgerald's are good stopping places. From here the Commanda River can be followed through Commanda Lake and Restoul Lake to Chaudiere Falls, near the shores of Lake Nipissing, than which no more pleasant or more sporting route exists. As all this neighbour- hood is comparatively uninhabited, it is not advisable to attempt it without guides. After Powasing (95 miles) a good spot for trout on the Jenesse Creek, we arrive at Lake Nipissing* Callender (108 miles), on South East bay, gives the first glimpse of the waters, being situated on a hill side sloping up from the bay. At present there about forty houses and three country hotels. Here the steamers touch for various parts of the lake. At the entrance to the bay is a very numerous group of islands, almost all of which have been taken up by residents of Hamilton. La Vase (112 miles from Gravenhurst and 226 from Toronto) is the connecting point with the Canadian Pacific Railway and the all- rail route to Manitoba and the North- West. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 169 the state of lems in the road from rcher's hotel dent sports- Spring and fishing and Commanda [iner at Wm. Hotel and Commanda '.oui Lake to in which no s neighbour- ) attempt it I the Jgnesse it glimpse of ;he bay. At Here the ranee to the which have Toronto) is md the all- The Earliest Route to the Xorth-West The country we have now arrived at would at first thought seem to have been newly discovered, and to be now for the first time opened to the transport of the civilized traveller. Yet long before the advancing European colonist had penetrated to the shores of the Niagara, this route, up the Ottawa valley and along the shores of Lake Nipissing — the very line of the newly constructed Canadian Pacific Railway —had been traversed by many traders and travellers, and was their highway between Montreal and the Red River Country. As we have been travelling North, crossing the various East and West routes, and seemingly passing from the older and front coun- tries to the newer and more remote districts, we have really been meeting them in the reverse order of their development. When the whites first commenced to trade with the interior of the continent by the Gulf of the St. Lawrence, the first route that was opened up by them was this by Lake Nipissing. Next came the portage by the Humber, or Toronto River, and Lake Simcoe ; and lasity^ that by the Niagara. It was not until 1669 that P^re Gallin6e, canoeing around the western shores of Lake Ontario, says : " We found a river, one-eighth of a league broad, and extremely rapid, forming the outlet of Lake Erie, and emptying into Lake Ontario. The depth of the river is at this place extraordinary, for, on sounding close by the shore, we found fifteen or sixteen fathoms of water. This outlet is forty leagues long, and has, from ten to twelve leagues above Lake Ontario, one of the finest cataracts in the world ; for all the Indians of whom I have enquired about it say that the river falls at that place from a rock higher than the tallest pines — that is, about two hundred feet.'* Then was the Niagara River first met by the whites ] and not until •■ 160 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 1678 did Father Hennepin, the first European to see those Falls, stand by the cataract of Niagara. Yet sixty- three years before this, in 16 15, before even the Pilgrim Fathers had landed on the shores of America, Champlain, the French Governor of Quebec, had advanced with a party of armed men and passed up the Ottawa to Lake Nipissing. He found the shores occupied by between 700 and 800 Indians, and after enjoying its " abundance of game," and describing its northern side as being " very pleasant, with fine meadows for the grazing of cattle, and many little streams discharging into the lake," he passed down the French River to the Lake of the Hurons. Following him came the Coureurs-des-lfois, the voyageurs and trap- pers of the Canadian "North-West" and "X. Y." fur companies, carrying over the rocky portages all the stores for themselves and the Hudson's Bay Company, at Fort William, and the packs of furs which sought this, for nearly a century the main route between the North-West and Tide- water. Early travellers have described its dan- gers and difficulties, and the many crosses erected along the route — memorials of brave men who had lost their lives in battling with the turbulent rapids of the stream, or with the many foes along its banks, of whom stories of valour, or of pathos and self-sacrifice, such as that of the gallant Cadieux, " voyageur, poSte et guerrier," float down in history : ** Seul en ces bois, que j'ai eu de soucis ! Pensant toujours k mes si chers amis, Je demandais : H^Ias ! sont-ils noyes ? Les Iroquois les auraient-ils tu^s ? — E. Gagnon, Chansons Fopulaires du Canada. Along the shores, the summer tourist can in fancy picture the pass- ing lines of heavy-laden canoes, and hear once more the gay-hearted voyageurs singing out their cheerful French chansons^ while keeping time with dripping paddle to the stirring tune. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 161 those Falls, , the Pilgrim implain, the ty of armed e found the fter enjoying ide as being ■ cattle, and d down the irs and trap- ' companies, mselves and packs of furs between the ibed its dan- the route — ing with the ig its banks, such as that float down du Canada. ire the pass- gay-hearted lile keeping A la Clairs Fontaiue. From Chansons Populaires du Canada. — Morgan, Quebec. A'adantino. ^^^^2^=^^^^^. r> N--j^ A la clai -re fon • tai • ne M'en al • lant pro- me- ner, J'ai trou-v^ I'eau si bel - le Que je me suis bai • gn^. ^^^tf^Bs:!-.^^^^ Lui ya longtemps que je t'ai- me, Ja • mais je ue t'ou • blie- rai. J'ai trouvd I'eau si belle, Que je tn'y suis baign^ ; Sous les feuilles d'un chdne Je me suis fait sdoiier. Lui ya longtemps, etc. Sous les feuilles d'un chSne Je me suis fait sdcher ; Sur la plus haute branche Le rossignol chantait. Lui ya longtemps, etc. Sur la plus baute branche Le rossignol chantait, Chante, rossignol, chante, Toi qui as le coeur gai. Lui ya longtemps, etc. Chante, rossignol, chante, Toi qui as le coeur gai, Tu as le coeur k rire, Moi je Tai-t-^-pleurer. Lui ya longtemps, etc. K Tu as le coeur k rire, Moi je Tai-t-a pleurer, J'ai perdu ma ma'^^^sse Sans I'avoir m^rite. Lui ya longtemps, etc. J'ai perdu ma maitresse Sans Tavuir mdrit^, Pour un bouquet de roses Que je lui refusai. Lui ya longtempn, etc. Pour un bouquet de rosea Que je lui refusai. Je voudrais que la rose Fdt encore au rosier, Lui ya longtemps, etc. Je vtiudrais que la rose Fdt encore au rosier, Et moi et ma maitresse Dans les mdme amities. Lui ya longtemps, etc. 102 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. The Parry Island Archipelago. The Penetanguishene branch, after leaving Allandale, follows the curve of the hills to the east of the Nottawasaga Valley. The river is filled with the accumulations of the debris of the freshets of hun- dreds of years, so that large portions of the valley are completely flooded in the early spring. Little by linle it is being reclaimed ; but vast acres of forest still occupy the bottom banks ; and to the left of the train a view is had over their waving tops, surging like a green ocean with the inequalities of the surface. Fenetiviguishene (102 miles from Toronto) is one of the historic spots ot Canada, but in the impatient haste of these modern days it has had to allow its name to be curtailed to " Penetang." The town lies at the head cf a deep inlet on the south-east shore of the Georgian Bay, which early attracted attention as a safe and commodious har- bour. The importance of the naval command of the Upper Great I,akes led the British Government, in 18 18, to fix upon a site near the mouth of the bay for the establishment of a dockyard. A war- sloop, the Midas, was here stationed for some years ; but the idea of making a naval centre was shortly after abandoned. [The position has since been occupied by a Juvenile Reformatory, maintained by the Canadian Government]. The British Government had induced a number of pensioners to occupy lands in the vicinity which formed part of the military reservation — the records of the names of many of whom are to be found in the old Military Church, and under the waters of the bay may still be seen, on calm days, the sunken hulls of the old gunboats of which they formed the crews. The town, situated 2 ^ miles from the Reformatory, developed a considerable trade in furs, large quantities of which were brought by Indians and Half-breeds from the almost unbroken forests and count- less lakes to the North-East, which aflforded an unrivalled hunting ground. ^A. THE NORTHERN LAKES OP CANADA. 163 lie, follows the ^iey. The river reshets of hun- are completely ing reclaimed ; »ks ; and to the ;, surging like a of the historic modern days it ng." The town of the Georgian Dmmodious har- le Upper Great ipon a site near cyard. A war- ; but the idea [The position maintained by nt had induced y which formed lames of many and under the sunken hulls y, developed a ^ere brought by ests and count- ivalled hunting Some families of French and English Half-breeds and of French Canadians, who, on the giving up of Drummond Island, Lake Huron, to the Americans, in 1828, retained their British allegiance, were granted lands in the vicinity. In 1841 a number of their compatriots from Lower Canada joined them, forming what is now known as the French Settlement. In 1880 the census reports the French-speaking population of the County of Simcoe as 3,669, almost all of whom live within a few miles of Penetanguishene ; and in the Roman Catholic churches the services are still rendered in the French lan- guage. Pleasant excursions can be made from here to Midland City, Mouth of the Severn, Parry Sound, etc. The Clarkson House, on a height overlookine the bay, is recommended. THE ARCHIPKLAGO. There are two lines of steamers which ply through these islands on the route to Parry Sound. The Great Northern Transit Company, from Collingwood, and the Parry Sound Company, from Penetang. Both lines of steamers pass through this maze of islands. Ten thousand have been counted about here in the nautical survey of the Georgian Bay, and the whole shore is fringed with them, of all sizes, from mere dots to hundreds of acres, with high towering clifif-like centres. Through the Inside Channel of these the steamers wind their way. One open spot only exists, Moose Point, where the lake has open sweep, but except this, all else is through channels, some so narrow as to almost touch the steamers' sides. Many of the Islands are oc- cupied with summer-houses, and there is no doubt that ere long there will be as great a population as now takes its summer outings on the inland Lakes of Muskoka. PARKY SOUND. This large and flourishing town is beautifully situated at the mouth of the Seguin River^ whose waterfalls are utilized for its gigantic sawmills, and upon a deep recessed harbour, completely sheltered from the open water. From it the summer can be spent either in ex- L64 TEE ^ORTHEliN LAKES OF CANADA ploring, by means of the several steam launches, the windings up the Archipelago, or striking inland, take tlie canoe trips up ihc interior. Good fishing abounds of the same character as iiiljiul, except that some extra-sized bass, old lake stagers, are occasionally captured. 7 At' B<'/7tWen'/Jo/r/ {$ I. ^o) \^ 0[')cned only in the sumtncr season, being specially intended for tourists. Its situation upon a higii hill- side, facing the most beautiful view, has been excellently selected. 'V\\i^ Se^^mn House, R. B. Armstrong, and Albion House, Henry Jukes THB THREE SI.STtRS. (both $i.oo;, are favourably mentioned. There are several churches, some good stores, a local weekly paper, and telegraph communica- tion. It is just twelve hours' run, half boat and half rail, between Toronto and Parry Sound. Harvie's stage line runs regularly between here and PortCockburn, Lake Joseph (24 miles). It is a good road, and passes along an almost consecutive line of pretty lakes. Round trip tickets, going one way and coming back the other, can be obtained, including both the Lakes of Muskoka and the Parry Island Archipelago. TUB NORTHERN LAKhJS OF CANADA. Km dings up the tlie interior, except thai ajjlured. imcr seasun, n a high hill- itly selected. Henry Jukes ral churches, communica- ail, between arly between a good road, :es. Round her, can be Parry Island The lliirons and Frciirli in the Karly Hays, BY Mr. Jas. Bain, Jr., Puiu.ic T.M!rarian, Toronto. The early history of the existing town of Penetanguishene only carries us back to the beginning of this century, but the sur- rounding district recalls the history of a nation whose tragic fate was the theme of innumerable pens, and which disappeared altogether from the face of the country in the middle of the seventeenth cen- tury. At a time when the infant European settlements were strug- gling for bare existence in Salem, Fort Orange, Jamestown, and St. Augustine, French priests and traders, had worked their way up the turbulent rivers and through the trackless forests to this neighbourhood, and had organized an extensive mission and buiU a fort and church, the ruins of which exist to this day. The Hurons, a branch of the great Huron-Iroquois family, had early separated themselves from their kindred, who were afterwards known as the Iroquois, or Five Nations, dwelling in what is now New York State, A bitter feud had arisen between them, and the warfare was conducted with all the cruelty and vindictiveness to be expected from the most ferocious Indians of this continent. The establishment of a fort at Quebec, in 1608, at once drew large numbers of the Hurons, to trade their furs for French goods. Their yearly v. sits attracted the attention of Champlain, the Gover- nor of the new French possessions, who, as did Cartier when he named the first village above tide-water Za Chine, still dreamt of reaching China and the golden East, and hoped to be able, with the Hurons' assistance, to gain the road to the Eastern seas. In 1615 he made his second attempt to reach their country, ascended the Ottawa River, crossing Lake Nipissing, and descending the river of that name, now called the French River, he gazed for the first time upon the great fresh-water sea of the Hurons. % 166 TEE NOBTHEBN LAKES OF CANADA. Passing, in his canoe, along the eastern side of the Georgian Bay, threading his path amid the countless islands which line its shores, he finally landed at Thunder Bay, a few miles west of Penetangui- shene. He was immediately taken to a town in the vicinity, called Carhagoulhia, where he was welcomed by Father Le Caron, who had preceded him. On the 17th ot August he reached the chief town, Cahiagu6 (near Coldwater). The unfortunate decision which now led Champlain to join the Hurons in an attack upon the Iroquois, near Onondaga, was the immediate cause of the long and bitter warfare which almost resulted in driving the French from Canada. The expedition took its way by Balsam Lake, the Trent River, and the Bay of Quints, thence across Lake Ontario. Having failed to carry the Lidian fortifications in spite of the firearms of their French allies, they retreated to their homes. Champlain returned to Quebec in the following spring, after spending the winte/ in excursions through the Huron country. The number of towns and villages, he reported, was 32, and the population about 20,000 ; but a later traveller fixed it more ac- curately at 30,000. Well may Parkman say that " here, within an area of sixty or seventy miles, was the seat of one of the most remarkable savage communities of this continent." The entire population seems to have been confined to the country lying between the Georgian Bay and Lake Simcoe, with its northern extension, Lake Couchiching. On the return of Champlain to Quebec, reinforcements were sent to the Mission; and as the arnual Relations of the Jesuit Fathers were published in Paris, detailing the strange discoveries and painful labours of those who had ventured their lives, a fervent missionary spirit arose which was profitable to the Mission both in money and men. In 1639, the Jesuits, finding it imperative to establish some fixed headquarters, chose a spot on the banks of the River Wye, near where it empties into Matchedash Bay. Here they built a iox\. and church, named it Ste. Marie, manning the one with soldiers to the number of thirty, and adorning the other with the ecclesiastical ornaments which they had succeeded in transporting over the long THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 167 rorgian Bay, xt its shores, Penetangui- :inity, called on, who had chief town, to join the ga, was the lost resulted k its way by lence across ifications in ed to their ving spring, on country. ;2, and the it more ac- , within an f the most The entire ng between extension, s were sent nit Fathers and painful missionary money and blish some ^iver Wye, built a fort soldiers to clesiastical the long reaches and weary portages of the Ottawa and Nipissing Rivers. The fort, built partly of stone, partly of wood, was enclosed within a palisaded fortification and surrounded by a nioat. Within its gates, charity and medicines were dispensed to the poor and suffering from the surrounding Indian towns, and every means were adopted to lead the savage to the service of the church. The Iroquois saw with intense hatred this settlement of white men to their north, and resolved to make a powerful effort to reduce the Hurons to subjection and to exterminate the French. A temporary peace which had been concluded between themselves and the French and their Indian allies was broken, and a series of desperate on- slaughts was made upon the French settlements along the St. Law- rence, until almost the entire population was driven into the isolated forts for protection from the human wolves. Turning their attention next to the Hurons, a numerous party crossed Lake Ontario, and ascending the Humber River to its head waters, soon reached by bush paths their frontier town, at the foot of a range of hills, about twenty miles to the south-east of Penetanguishene, known as Tean- austay^ or St. Joseph. The Hurons were caught unprepared ; in a short time the town was in ashes and the inhabitants massacred, with the exception of 700 who were carried off prisoners. Father Daniel, the priest in charge, was cut to pieces in front of his own church. After destroying in a similar manner another small town in the vicinity, the Iroquois returned home in triumph. In 1649, eight months after, a larger party, principally composed of Senecas and Mohawks, said to number about 1,000, again crossed Lake Ontario, and leisurely hunting till they drew near to the Hurons, burst upon the settlements like a whirlwind, burning the towns and destroying the inhabitants, until the cowed remnant of the Hurons, clustered round the Fort of St. Marie, resolved to fly from their own country and take refuge in some of the islands to the north. The Jesuits had no option — if their flock fled they must accompany them, and accordingly the torch was applied to the buildings, and the result of years of labour was soon a mass of broken walls and heaps of ashes. Part of the stonework was standing about six feet above the ground as late as 168 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. ! I 1870, but has since been destroyed, and the mounds and hollows are are all that left of one of the earliest buildings of this continent. A memorial church is being erected in Penetanguishene, to com- memorate the martyrdom of the priests, Breboeuf and Lallemant, who fell victims to the ferocious cruelty of the Iroquois. The first resting place of the unfortunate Hurons was the Christian Island, lying ten miles to the North West, where the Jesuits once more erected a fort, of which the walls are still standing ; but their spirit was broken, and har- rassed again by the Iroquois, they scattered over the islands still further to the north, a small remnant alone remaining with the Jesuit fathers, and finally, when the surviving French left the country, accompanied them to Lower Canada, where in the little village of Lorrette, close by Quebec, their descendants dwell to this day. The towns of the Hurons were composed of long bark-covered houses, accommo- dating numerous families, easily constructed and as easily destroyed. Nothing was permanent, and the forests speedily overran their sites. With the one exception of Ste. Marie built by the French, we are dependent on the heaps of ashes, stone implements and burnt corn turned up by the settlers, for the identification of the dwelling places of a populous nation who passed away two centuries ago, leaving the country empty and desolate for almost an hundred years. The Georgian Bay* Reverting again to Allandale (page 81), the Collingwood Branch leads north-westerly over the level known as the " Pine Plains," once covered with stately pines, but now being rapidly changed to broad acres of grain-laden fields and meadow pastures. Passing Angus and crossing the Mad and Nottawasaga Rivers^ a. reminiscence of the olden days is preserved in the name of Batieaux^ where the voyageurs used to embark their laden canoes, and then we reach the lake. Collingroood. Forty years ago the shores were lined with forest, and the Hen and Chickens harbour was but the resort of the Indians, or TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 169 I hollows are itinent. lene, to com- llemant, who e first resting nd, lying ten :ted a fort, of ken, and har- is still further esuit fathers, accompanied orrette, close towns of the J, accomnao- \y destroyed, an their sites, ench, we are d burnt corn veiling places ), leaving the s. wod Branch !*lains," once ;ed to broad Angus and ence of the le voyageurs the lake, forest, and Indians, or the home of the wild fowl. Now a stirring town of 5,000 inhabitants occupies the spot. Sawmills and huge gi lin elevators meet the eye, and busy steamers connecting with all the upper lakes lie at the docks. There is good brook trout fishing in the neighbourhood, and plea- sant excursions can be made to the Caves, in whose recesses the ice of winter lingers the summer through, or to the Notiawasaga Beach^ where for miles an excellent drive can be enjoyed on the firm hard sands around the curving shore of the bay. Near the mouth of the river lies the skeleton hulk of an old British gunboat, driven hard upon the shore, and behind which, in the sand banks, have been found some of the round shot fired at it by the pursuers when it sought shelter from the foe. Collins' •' Grand Central Hotel," and Rowland's " Globe Hotel," can be recommended as excellent headquarters. {See adv.) Leaving Collingwood by the Lake Superior or the Georgian Bay Line steamers, the B/ue Mountains rise high above the town, and fringe the southern shores of the Georgian Bay. This is the s.ime elevation which, running south-easterly across the peninsula, is successively known sixty miles inland, as the Caledon Mountains, at Burlington Bay as " The Mountain " and terminates in the " Niagara Escarp- ment," on the banks of the Niagara River. The Christian Islands lie out to the right, another Notiawasaga Island^ with revolving light- house, nearer to the shore. Meaford lies at the foot of a bay under the protection of the pro- montory of Cape Rich. A rich agricultural country lies at the back, drained by the Bighead and Beaver Rivers, in whose upper reaches good sport is still to be had in speckled trout. Pretty drives up there, and the Cuckoo Vahey, and good boating and bathing on the shores of the bay make the little village a pleasant summer resort. Mrs. Paul's hotel has long been a favourite with city visitors, and Noble's hotel is also recommended. The district is celebrated for its fruit, particularly plums, which grow to a size and luxuriance not approached in any other part of Ontario. It is a strange fact, too, that under the shelter of the lofty headlands peaches and f-rapes grow freely in the open air. 170 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Owen Sounds the next calling place, is around Cape Rich, and at the head of a deeply-recessed bay. It is the terminus in this direc- tion of the Owen Sound division of the Canadian Pacific Railway which connects with Toronto, and is the starting point of their line of swift steel steamships plying between here and Port Arthur. Ingles and Engenia Falls^ and the river Sydenham, are picturesquely situated in the deep rock-bound valley. The town is fast advancing in importance, and is the centre of an improving trade. From here the steamers take the direct course up the bay. Lone/y Island marks almost half the way, and in the morning the northern shores, with the lofty granite cliflfs of the La Cloche Mountains come into view. At their foot lies the sheltered channel on which is Kil- larney, a fishing village of much fish importance, originally called, in the Indian tongue, She-ba-wa-na-ning (here is a channel). It has been modernized in name, but the beauty of its surroundings still remains the same. The Oreat North Afanitoulin Channel. From here begins the wonderously beautiful trip of the Great N.wth Channel in behind the warding shelter of the Great Manitoulin Island. The steamers of the Great Northern Transit Company are really excellent models of what excursion and safe lake-going steamers should be. Carrying Her Majesty's mails, they call from little hamlet to hamlet along the Island shores, running into out-of-the-way recesses^ and passing backwards and forwards to cross the North Channel in doing their " Local " business on a way that is entirely different to that of the direct routes of the " Through " steamers. The searchers for the novelties of this route are fast increasing in numbers, and its and the steamers' good name becoming proverbial. A correspondent in the Forest and Stream thus describes the scene : "Islands succeed islands in an unbroken continuity hour after hour as we glide on ; islands of every conceivable size and shape, more numerous than the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence many times THE NORTHERN LAKEb OF CANADA 171 lich, and at in this direc- ific Railway of their line rthur. )icturesquely ;t advancing bay. Lone/y :he northern ntains come vhich is Kil- ly called, in It has been still remains the Great *• Manitoulin "Company are ng steamers le hamlet to ay recesses^ Channel in different to e searchers >ers, and its the scene : after hour lape, more nany times multiplied ; islands barren, wooded, sandy, rocky, columnar, grace- fully rounded, precipitous and gently sloping, wind-swept and storm- polished, large, diminutive, and infinitesimal ; reefs widely spreading, and submarine monoliths whose peaks barely project above the sur- face. There is a breadth and sweep and never-ending change in the panorama which is all-absorbing to a mind intent upon the picture. For one hundred and seventy miles we steam through this island scenery ! In the calm repose of a summer's morning, when the waves are stilled and the face of the lake gleams like polished glass, the shadows fall heavily from the indented shores, and every rock and tree is sharply outlined and reproduced inverted in the mirror. Then we seem to float on airy nothing, looking upward into cloudland and down- ward into cloudland, in- to depths above and be- low that seem illimitable. There is very little animal life upon the Islands. The mainland is a con- tinuous upheaval of bare Laurentian billows of granite that once were molten. There is but a scanty growth of trees. Sweeping blasts have scathed them and frequent fires blasted out their vitality. There are very few houses and but little cultivation. Occasionally a bark canoe glides from be- hind a point, and at intervals a solitary fisherman's hut is descried. Were it not for the gaunt white gulls that hover over our wake or keep vigil on the rocks, this would be a solitude. In places the flinty strata of rocks yield a mineral wealth suffi- induce the sinking of a mining shaft, or the back country af- (( 172 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. fords a supply of furs which necessitates the establishment of a trad- ing post and depot. At these the steamboat touches, sometimes to take in wood, sometimes to land a passenger, and anon to discharge some freight." Captain Bayfield, R.N., who compiled the nautical charts of these waters, states that 27,000 islands have been counted in the combined shores of the Georgian Bay and the North Channel. After, Manitowanifig, a rising settlement on the island, where are said to be some good trout streams (Quinn's and the Commercial Hotel) ; next on the route comes Little Current, another hamlet, and here a tide sets between the islands with a four-knot current. It is said the tide is caused by the wind, that it sets in whichever direction the wind is blowing at the time. Still further on is the picturesque Hudson's Bay Company post, called La C/oche, with its sunny white buildings, red-roofed. Gore Bay, one of the most important points upon Manitoulin Island, and the principal port to the free grant lands, is next touched at. Crossing back again, Spanish River, an important lumbering centre, is met, and from here the steamer, after passing through the narrow straits of the " Devil's Gap," threads its way through the islands that fringe the Northern shore. A/goma Mills is the point where the Canadian Pacific branch, after leavi 1 the main line and skirting the north shores of Lake Nipissing first approaches the waters of Lake Huron on its way to Sault Ste. Marie. Blind River and Missasaga River empty the waters of the North water shed, and are connecting routes to the Indian reservations further inland. At Thessalon is Jackson's hotel, and boats and guides can be obtained for the upper trout streams of the Missasaga River. I. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 173 ent of a trad- sometimes to I to discharge harts of these the combined nd, where are e Commercial :r hamlet, and urrent. It is ever direction e picturesque s sunny white n Manitoulin mds, is next »et, and from traits of the lat fringe the cific branch, )res of Lake )n its way to Qf the North reservations boats and le Missasaga The Direct steamers from Collingwood coming in through the Missasaga channel now join the route of the Local steamers, and at the Bruce Mines ^ 307 miles from Collingwood, are the huge chim- ney stacks and shops and piles of copper ore, and ranges of hovels two miles long that belonged to the great company that used to delve the precious metal from the bowels of the surrounding earth. The works have cost over a quarter of a million of dollars. After a particularly beautiful part of the route, in which the steamers wind through a series of small islands and so close to the cliffs in passing through the "Wilsons Channel,'" that a biscuitcanalmost be pitched to land, Bear Lake is next passed, and after the Nebeesh Rapids we presently enter the serpentine St, Mary's Riv:r, with its Indian reservation and vil- lages upon the Cana- dian side, and an oc- casional farm on the Michigan shore. At the mouth of the Garden River are the churches of the Anglican and Roman Catholic missions to the Indians in this district. Forty miles from Bruce Mines, we reach Sauli Ste, Marie, with its foaming rapids, its great ship canal, and the rival villages that con- front each other from either shore. Here, if one elects to tarry, he will find good fishing in the rapids and smaller streams in the vicinity. There are numerous Indians on hand to lend their services and canoes, and if the sportsman will try the Garden River, on the Canada side, he can fill his creel with trout. Sixteen miles below the Sault is Hay Lake and its outlets, affording fine trouting and good duck shooting in their respective seasons. There is a very comfort- able hotel at Sault Ste. Marie, on the American side, called the 174 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, Chippewa House. In Fort Brady is a detachment of the United States regular army. The Canadian side is more picturesque, and there are some fine private residences there. Millar's and Murray's hotels are excellently kept and nicely situated on the banks of the river. The waters of Lake Superior here pour over the Sault Ste. Marie Falls. There is no one bold single fall, but a continuous rapid of about three-quarters of a mile in length, the waters rushing down with great fury, and V)reaking in huge waves over the rocks. .ssr^ M'kS<^ithi,C'> 'i'Z^^■^f^^'i'^;'^ £'^ ''^ SAULT ST. MARIE FALLS. At the Sault is the seat of the Anglican Bishop of Algoma, and the *' Shingwauk Home," a school for the education of Indian children. On the American side is the great ship canal with two sets of locks. The earliest built in 1855 are 70 feet wide and 350 feet long, and fine examples of masonry, but they have been far eclipsed by the new lock 80 feet wide and 560 feet long, which is perhaps as large as any lock in the world, and raises the vessels by one lift of 18 feet to the level of Lake Superior. Tourists can stop over and go on by the next steamers, and enjoy some fishing or " run the rapids ; ** canoes and two men can be hired A, of the United cturesque, and and Murray's banks of the uU Ste. Marie luous rapid of ing down with T^"-'-^',. ■-. - Algoma, and >n of Indian with two sets and 350 feet far eclipsed s perhaps as lone lift of 18 rs, and enjoy lean be hired THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 176 at fifty cents for each person. The white-fish of the Sault are the finest and firmest of the lakes. It is interesting to watch the Indians as, poling their canoes up the surging rapids, they peer through the clear waters to discover the fish swimming in the channels in the rocks, when suddenly dropping down with the swift current, they sweep them out with their long-handled scoop nets. Mackinac. Connection with this famed resort, where the United States Govern- ment has created the whole island a " national park," is made daily from Sault Ste. Marie by various lines of steamers. On the special " Mackinac Excursions," the Collingwood steamers turn westwards at S^. Joseph! s Island^ skirting the shores of Drum- mond Island^ from which, at the time of its cession to the United States, the patriotic British population migrated to Penetanguishene. The St. Mary's river is the highway for an immense volume of trade, and many huge steamers and tows of barges laden with grain or iron and copper ore will be met with in its channels. At Detour entry is made from it into Lake Huron, and after running westwards the heights of Mackinac Island come into view. Around this island centre many historic events. As Michilimackinac it appears in the early annals as olc of the most coveted strategic points and was in succession held by all the nationalities who in successive ages warred for the possession of the internal commu- nications of this continent. The many local guide books and the several "Histories of Mackinac" will tell the details. A fort tops the sheer precipice, at the foot of which lies a part of the town, and for picturesqueness of position can very rarely be equalled. In 1 76 1 the British had built the first old Fort Michilimackinac but in 1763 it was surprised by the Indians under the great chief, Pontiac, and the garrison almost wholly massacred. In 1764 the 176 THJH NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. present Foit Mackinac was built, and upon its being given over to the United States in 1793, at the conclusion of the revolutionary war, the British removed their headquarters to a new fort erected about 40 miles to the north on St. Joseph's Island, some remnants of which still remain. When the war of 181 2 began, Capt. Roberts, who was in command at Fort St. Joseph, under instructions received from General Brock, sallied forth, with the gallant Toussaint Pothier (afterwards member of the Upper House of Parliament, Montreal) and 455 Canadians and Indians. Having dropped down the river in boats and canoes they landed on the north side of the Island at a place now called *• English Landing," and re-took Fort Mackinac from the Americans. In I814, a force of United States troops of 1,000 men, under Col. Crogan undertook to recapture the fort but they were met at the Dousman Farm and repulsed with considerable loss. Major Holmes, the second in command, being killed, and having retired hastily to the shore they re-embarked on their vessels and sailed off the same evening. Fort St. George was erected on the highest part of the Island by the the Canadians, who held possession of the place until 1815, when the island was peaceably surrendered to the United States, and the the name of the Fort was then changed to Fort Holmesy in honor of the Major who had been killed the previous year. Visits can be made to " The Lovers' Leap, Arch Rock, the several battle fields, etc., and their legendary and historic lore sought out with pleasure. Summer hotels of the finest description, and palatial lines of steamers from Detroit and Chicago have combined to form this one of the most engaging summer resorts in the north, and from it radiate many series of connections, including this along the Great North Manitoulin Channel to Collingwood, or to the Northern Shores of the mighty Lake Superior. The round trip from Collingwood to Sault Ste. Marie and Mackinac occupies just about one week. From Mackinac or the Sault to Lake Superior about the same. w ;iven over to •evolutionary fort erected me remnants in command neral Brock, ards member anadiansand canoes they led*- English IS. , under Col. met at the jor Holmes, ;d hastily to }if the same sland by the 1815, when tes, and the n honor of Rock, the listoric lore description, licago have mer resorts is, including ingwood, or The round ic occupies ke Superior TBE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 177 The North Shore of Lake Superior. Through the Sault and into Lake Superior ! We have traversed one vast Mediterranean, and another is before us. Lake Superior is 460 miles long, 1 70 miles broad ; its depth is 800 feet, being 200 feet below the level of the Atlantic. It is only now that we begin to realize the immensity of these in- land seas. The voyage for duration is like a journey to Europe. Great ships of thousands of tons burthen, traverse its highways, and storms that are not surpassed in violence sometimes agitate its depths, but in the summer time its clear cold waters are seldom stirred ex- cept by passing thunder showers. The direct steamers, after passing up the river from Sault Ste. Marie across Waiska Bay^ now phonetically and modernly called Whiskey Bay, and by the noble headlands of Iroquois and Gros Cap^ ** the portals of Lake Superior," head directly across the lake. The coasting steamer turns northwards and proceeding one hun- dred miles, after losing sight of land, arrives at Michipicoton Island and river. Here in summer the boats tarry a few hours that excur- sionists may pick up agates along the pebbly shore or catch huge trout in the adjacent waters. Were it not that larger fish can be taken on the Nepigon, the size and quantity of these would seem amazing. Some of the agates found here are of unusual beauty and transparency. The light-house keeper, who has a sort of monopoly of the business, in that he has thoroughly raked the placers, will sell a pint of them for about a dollar. Hence to Port Arthur and Fort William, the distance is 306 miles. The cliffs around the North Shore are bluff to the water's edge. Among the Slate Islands is some very fine fishing, and large exports of salmon trout are made from here. All around this shore there are regularly established " fisheries " and the boats of the hardy fisher- men may often be met with. On the north shore of Lake Superior is the noble Nepigon Bay. Entrance is by the straits between lofty islands and cliffs 1,500 feet L 178 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANDA. from base to summit, ragged with shattered rocks or clad with verdure^ or past small islets barely holding ground for a few small trees. At the mouih of the river is the famed Red Rock, sacred to the Manitou^ and carved with hieroglyphics, the marks and relics of early Indian, visits. Of this rock, from time immemorial, has the Indian " Calumet" or pipe of peace been made, and far down upon the Mississippi, and in Mexico, in the mounds or tumuli of extinct races, are found samples of its peculiar stone. Half a mile from the mouth is the Hudson's Bay post. Around the shores of St. Ignace Island^ which divides the bay from the open lake, is magnificent lake trout fishing, (see Orvis Cheney " Fishing with the Fly ") and the sport on the river is renowned. Silver Islet lies under the shadow of Thunder Cape, and from its depths have been extracted many millions in value of silver, but now the mines, which were centred on a small rock barely above water, \ vith verdure, rees. At the le Manitou^ early Indian. Calumet" or iippi, and in d samples of the bay from )rvis Cheney lowned. ind from its ver, but now above water, THE NORTH hRN LAKES OF CANADA, 179 have becorr too difficult for profitable working, and attention ii being directed to the main-land. Thunder Bay, the great point of interest of the route is now en- tered, a grand expanse of water twenty miles in diameter, encircled by an amphitheatre of fantastic hills and guarded at its portal by Thunder Cape, a rugged headland of columnar basaltic trap of 1.350 feet high. When the steamer's whistle sounds, the reverberations THUNDER CAPE — LAKE SUPERIOR. leap and re-echo from point to point cf the entire circumference of the bay. But when the Titanic voice of the thunder-blast rolls through the broad expanse, it resounds with mighty intonations that shake the cliffs and split the air, and give to cape and bay their most appropriate name. It is the tongue of the Great Spirit, Nana-bijoo, that speaks. And the god himself lies prone upon his back, like 180 TEE IfOETHERN LAKES 01 CANADA, some ancient crusader resting from his labours. Looking from the distance his gigantic form can be seen plainly limned in the outline of the adjacent mountain ridge. It has been the custom of the ancient Indians to toss him a bit of tobacco, by way of a propitiatory offering, as they pass ! To the south-west is seen McKay's Mountain, and further to the left the peculiarly shaped Pie Island, its form resembling a gigantic pork pie. JRorf Arthur. — Here is the Lake terminus of the Canadian National Highway, the Canadian Pacific Railway, which from here spans the Continent over forest, plain, and mountain range, to the temperate climate of British Columbia and the shores of the Pacific. Here too toward the east joins the just finished portion of the railway which, skirting the north shore of Lake Superior, running fpr miles around the bays and headlands in sight of the mighty waters, leaves them in the neighbourhood of Jackfish Bay, and cuts across the inland coun- try to the shores of Lake Nipissing. One cannot help comparing \}cit first route of communication, when in canoes forced slowly and with difficulty up the rapids, or pain- fully carried over rugged portages from Montreal, up the Ottawa, over Lake Nipissing, and down the French River to the Lake Huron ; then coasting with carefulness the long weary miles of rock-bound shore past the Sault the voyageur arrived at Thunder Bay, with this, the newest connection, its palace cars and express trains sweeping on swift wheels over the same route, often within sight of the same spots, beside the same rapids of the rivers and along the same shores of the lakes ! Where can a greater contrast be found between the Past and the Present, or where a more vivid example of the overcoming of the obstacles of nature by the genius and energy of man ! Port Arthur is growing fast. Into the lap of this bay is being poured the business of half a continent, and with it must come the welfare of the neighbourhood. The Northern Hotel, kept by F. S. Wiley, faces the full view of the Bay, and will be a pleasant place where meetings for the summer holidays can be arranged between families from the North- West and their members which may have remained behind in Eastern Canada. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 181 ig from the the outline torn of the propitiatory 's Mountain, id, its form lian National re spans the le temperate :. Here too .ilway which, miles around aves them in inland coun- ication, when ids, or pain- Ottawa, over ^ake Huron ; rock-bound ly, with this, sweeping on of the same same shores Past ditid the Dming of the bay is being lUst come the I full view of r the summer )rth-West and tern Canada. A most pleasant excursion can be made by small tug up the Kami- nistiquia river to Fointe d Muron, a distance of 12 miles, to the head of navigation, from where a magnificent view of Thunder Bay and the mighty ranges which encircle it like an amphitheatre can be ob- tained. Pigeon River, the boundary between the United States and Canada, and having fine Falls ; Curre?it River, with rushing rapids and silver mines ; Atnet/iysf Bay, where the beautiful amethyst veins are found in abundance ; Silver Harbour, the silver mines, and the numerous trout streams, will all give plenty to do and to amuse during the stay. '-* ~'.~-S^J'i^l^C'.'*^Z^./^'*^'.i-'i'- .-S-. r»C— .' . m'kay's mountain. Fort William is reached either by road or by boat, a pull of about two miles, or by the Canada Pacific R. R.. It is about the oldest Hudson's Bay post on Lake Superior, on the banks of the Kaministi- quia River, a sluggish stream, winding with many a turn at the foot of McKay's Mou?ifain, named after one of the early residents at tihe Hudson's Bay post. The ascent, although somewhat difficult, is well worth making. Following an Indian trail for about four miles, the precipitous sides of the mountain are ascended and the summit reached, about 1,200 feet above the level of the lake. Directly be- neath winds like a silver thread the Kaministiauia River, dividing 182 THE NORTHERN LAKBti OF CANADA. where it flows into Thunder Bay, into many channels, justifying its name, which means in the original " many-mouthed stream." Eastward across the bay, at the distance of 25 miles, rises the lofty wall of Thunder Cape and attendant ranges. Then Pie Islands, the Welcome Islands, and far beyond them out in the broad water is the /s/e Royale^ a portion of the United States, to the left the Pointe a Muron range, with the river winding through them and the course of the Canada Pacific Railway, stretching far away through miles of ^orest. Around the river mouth cluster the giant elevators and the black masses of coal heaped up on the docks for transport inland, and through the web-Hke interweaving of the tracks puff the yard-engines of the railway sorting out the products of the Great North- West. The front of the mountain is a sheer cliff of 300 feet high to the first ledge, and from its giddy height an unbroken view of all the country round for 50 miles delights the eye. There are some good hotels in the town. The Kakabekah Falls, another of the great natural features, are now, that the railway is constructed, quite easy of access. Canoes and In- dians are taken out by train to a point about six miles above the Falls. The river is then followed to within a short distance above the cataract when a portage is made around the Falls which exceed in THE KAKABEKAH FALLS. istifying its m. les the lofty Islands, the 'ater is the le Pointe a le course of ;h miles of )rs and the inland, and ard- engines ■West. The to the first :he country )d hotels in Kakabekah another of eat natural s, are now, e railway is icted, quite of access. 5 and In- are taken ' train to a about six above the The river n followed hin a short :e above the ;t when a ; is made [ the Falls exceed in TRE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 183 height and present a striking general resemblance to those at Niagara. Rejoining the canoes, a run down the rapids brings the party to the mouth of the river in from three to four hours. From Port Arthur connection is made by steamer to Du/uthy " The Zenith City of the unsalted seas," of all places the most written of and talked of in the United States. It is advan- tageously situated at the extreme head of Lake Suoerior, and by rail- way connection with the interior, will, without doubt, some day justi- tify the glorious prophecies which heralded its birth, Here the steamers commence the return trip, having been joined by tourists from Chicago, St. Paul, Manitoba, &c., and picking up any who have ** stopped off" at Thunder Bay, return by the same route, as pre- viously described. Whether it be for the return trip from either Toronto, Port Arthur, or Duluth, or for the single trip in one direction, opportunity is given for what is, beyond all question, the Cheapest, Most Invigorating and Grandest Trip on the continent. Here then we will cease, having conducted our tourist from the shores of the Niagara over all the intervening waters and to the many pleasant summer resorts on The Northern Lakes of Canada. ERRATA. Page 38, line 24, for "one hundred and fifty " read " fifty." Page 81, line 20, for " Hiron" read " Ojibbeway." Page 113, line 16, for "miles " read ** hours." 184 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Our Country. Our Country ! 'Tis a glorious land I With broad arms stretched from shore to shore The proud Pacific chafes her strand, She hears the dark Atlantic roar ; And, nurtured on her ample breast, How many a goodly prospect lies In Nature's wildest grandeur drest, Enamel'd with her loveliest dyes. Rich prairies decked with flowers of gold, Like sunlit oceans roll afar ; Broad lakes her azure heavens behold, Reflecting clear each trembling star ; And mighty river?, mountain-born. Go sweeping onward dark and deep Through forests where the bounding fawn Beneath their sheltering branches leap. Still may her flowers untrampled spring ; Her harvests wave, her cities rise ; Aiid e er, till Time shall fold his wings Remain Earth's loveliest paradise ! f'l THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA 186 Hints as to Routes. jjarAU information and tickets for these Northern Lakes Routes can be obtained from Barlow Cumberland, General Ticket Agent, 35 Yonge Street (Ameri- can Hotel Block), Toronto. Toronto is the starting point for all point , of interest in the " Northern Lakes of Canada." Tourists from the Eastward, Boston, New York, can come by the connecting lines to Buffalo or Suspension Bridge, and then to Lewiston and Niagara to To- ronto, or by Grand Trunk R. R. from Montreal. From Niagara Falls and Buffalo, New York Central and Michigan Central Railroads connect at Lewiston and Niagara • ith palace steamer •' Chicora " daily to Toronto, or the Grand Trunk Railway can be taken round the head of Lake Ontario. Passengers from Toronto can have five hours at the Falls and \<-: 'urn to Toronto same evening. Tourists going down the St. Lawrence should not fail to stop at least one day in Toronto. The Lakes of Muskoka are within a few hours of Toronto by the Northern Railway. Excursion tickets, good for the season, are issued to Bracebridge, Rosseau, Joseph and Parry Sound, and are available to stop at Barrie or Orillia by making known to the conductor the intention to do so. Round trip tickets to Parry Sound can be obtained to go via Muskoka Lakes and return by Georgian Bay. For a grand all-round summer tour, this route is unsurpassed. Buffalo, Nia- gara Falls, Toronto, Couchiching, Lakes of Muskoka, Collingvvood ; thence Col- lingwood Line Steamers via Georgian Bay, Gt. Northern Manitoulin Channel, Sault Ste. Marie, North Shore of Lake Superior, Thunder Bay, Duluth, thence by rail to St. Paul and Chicago, or by Lake Superior Transit Co. via South Shore of Lake Superior to Detroit and Buffalo, or return by Collingvvood Line and Northern Railway to Toronto. The whole round trip to Lake Superior re- turning to Toronto occupies ten days. The most beautiful and economical trip on the Northern LaVes is to Sault Ste. Marie and return by the Great Northern Transit Company's steamer, calling at all the inland ports and in midsummer running specially to "Picturesque Mac- kinac." The round trip occupies six days. These are the only lines passing through the inside picturesque route of the Georgian Bay and North Manitoulin Channel, avoiding the open waters of Lake Huron, and passing in daylight the La Cloche Mountains, and through Island Scenery unsurpassed by the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence, 186 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. N ORTHERH L AKES LINES BARLOW CUMBERLAND, Passenger Agency, Toronto. Northern and North-Western Railway. The Ontario all-Rail connection to the North-West and to all the Sporting Districts of the North. Collingwood Lake Superior Line. Great North Channel, Sault Ste. Marie, Lake Superior, Thunder Bay, Nepigon, Duluth, Manitoba, Dakota. Georgian Bay Line. Great Northern Transit Co,, Georgian Bay, Manitoulin Island, Sault Ste. Marie, French River, Mackinac, Parry Sound. Northern Navigation €ompy. Lake Simcoe, Barrie, Orillia, Lake Couchiching. Musiiolca Navigation Compy. Lakes Muskoka, Rosseau and Joseph, the Maganetewan River, Lake Nipissing. Niagara Navigation Compy. Toronto, Niagara, Lewiston, Buffalo, Niagara Falls, New York, Boston, Phila- delphia, and all points East or South. Royal Hail Line. Lake Ontario, The Thousand Islands, White Mountains, Montreal, Quebec, Saguenay, Gulf of St. Lawrence. OCB].A.ISr HiIZsTES. INMAN Line— Queenstown, Liverpool. GuioN Line— Qiieenstown, Liverpool. North German Lloyd— London, Cherbourg. Bremen. State Line — Belfast, Glasgow. Red Star Line— Antwerp. The Continent. flSr Tioket and Passenger arrangements made. Berths secured, for all the above Linea. BARLOW CUMBERLAND, General Ticket Agent. INES ND, ay. I the Sporting Bay, Nepigon, lult Ste. Marie, -,ake Nipissing. Boston, Phih* itreal, Quebec, Dwn, Liverpool. Line — Belfast, lent. )r all the above Ticket Agent. TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 187 GUIDES. It is often true economy to engage the services of those whoso local knowledge will most quickly bring the newcomer to the best places for engag- ing in the sport for which he seeks, and at all events they will lighten his labours and certainly add to his pleasures. In canoeing, dangers may often be avoided. In deer hunting there is absolute necessity, and at all times, in an unknown country, it is well to have with one a Guide who knows the bush As the seaman knows the sea. Men and boys to row may be engaged from $1.00 to $1.50 per day. Experienced fishermen and huntsmen, including canoes, $2.00 per day ; Hounds, 50c. per day. The various Hotel-keepers may be consulted. The following men have been locally recommended : Lakes Rosseau and Joseph and Moon River Districts. Thos. Webster, John Peters, Abraham Asa Rosseau P. O. R. Holton Ashdown Jas. Davis, Frank Wing Trout Lake J. Jennings, H. Vankoughnet Folding Wm. Brady, John Richards . . Port Cockburn Ed. Yellowhead, Joe Ingersoll, Sampson Ingersoll, John Bigwin. . .Bala Lake of Bays and South Branch, Muskoka River District. Dorset P. O. Allan Phillips, Alvin Phillips, Henry Sawyer, Chris. Sawyer, Matthew McCaw, Tom Keown. Dwight P. O. Thos. E. Salmon, Archie Goldie, Edward Goldie, William Black well, Frank Blackwell, Arthur Osborne, Tom Salmon, George Robson, Grieves Robson, James Trueman, William Trueman. Baysville P. O. Daniel VanclifF, Henry Vancliff, Samuel Vancliff. Menominee P. O. Jeff. Avery, and his Sons. 188 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Commanda District. Nipissing District. (< Boolah Creek Nicholas Wessels Fred. Killey Sam. Lett " Jas. Sheppard La Vase Rich. Jessup " Thomas Grawbarger. . . Restoul P.'O. Thomas Smith " Thomas Armstrong.. . .Nipissing R. Manering Rye Wm. Porter Restoul John Suttiffe . Ardagh Maganetewan District. George Ross Spence J. McMillan Maganetewan Wm. Harris ** Jos. Jenkins ** John Wilkins Dunchurch John Labrash Maple Island H. Armstrong McKellar S. G. Ritter " P.O. ii P. 0. Uiiils as to Camping Outfit. The equipment carried by " Campers " varies according to their fancy. The following are the most necessary requirements : Equipment. — Ridge Tent, No. 3. The pole can be carried from place to place, and pins and uprights cut on landing. For a largerparty a smaller tent to shelter the " cook" and the provisions is desirable. Axe, hatchet, deep pot or bake kettle, sauce pan, frying pan, gridiron, kettle, tea-pot, long iron spoon, long iron fork, butcher knife, knives, forks, and spoons, tin wash dish, round tin dish pans, tin cups, tin, or thick earthenware plates, water pail, sugar, salt, pepper, and tea cans, two hand lanterns for candles. Provisions. — Biscuits, flour, bread, sides clear bacon sewn in canvas, tea, sugar, salt, pepper, soap in bars, condensed milk, raisins, beans, dried apples, rice, matches, sperm candles. Clothing — One change of underclothing, fiannel shirt, and woollen trousers ; three or four pairs of wool socks, overcoat, or mackintosh. THE NORTBERN LAKES OF CANADA. 189 trict. ah Creek P. O. (I t< (t (( La Vase " heavy long boots for day, pair easy old gaiter boots, or leather slippers for camp, extra cap or tuque, handy bag for small things, large dunnage bag to hold all clothing. , . Spence P. O. inetewan * ' <( (> unchurch '' ale Island " McKellar " (( «( ing to their jnts : carried from ding. For a he provisions , sauce pan, ong iron fork, ;h, round tin ;s, water pail, "or candles. on sewn in densed milk, dies. , and woollen r mackintosh, The Game Laws of Ontario, The Game Laws of Ontario are rigidly enforced, particularly in the district 0£ Muskoka, where the residents are fully alive to the fact that in the providing of good sport, both with gun and rod, lies op- portunity for large cash earnings by their community from the visitors who come among them. Game inspectors are appointed in each township, who are empow- ered to watch their neighbourhood, to inspect boxes or receptacles, and search houses, when they have reason to believe game, or skins of game, are concealed out of season, and to summon oftenders before the justices of the peace. Confiscation of the game follows conviction. SEASONS FOR SPORT. Fish and game may be taken within the following periods : fish: Salmon and lake trout ist Dec. to ist Nov. Speckled or brook trout ist May to 15th Sept. Bass 15th June to 15th May. Maskinonge and Pickerel 15th May to 15th April, GAME. Deer, elk, moose, reindeer, caribou.. 15th Oct. to 15th Dec. Woodcock 15th Aug. to ist Jany. Grouse, pheasants, prairie fowl, par- tridge ist Sept. to ist Jany. 190 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Snipe, plover ist Sept. to ist Jany. Swans or Geese ist Sept. to ist May. Duck and all other water fowl ist Sept. to ist Jany. Hares ist Sept. to 15th March. Quail may not be taken at all during 1886, 1887, "or wild turkey, during t886, 1887, or 1888, and thereafter only from isth Octo- ber to 15th December. No person may have any of above game in his possession except during the above stated peiiods, or for the purposes of being exposed for sale for fifteen days after such periods. No eggs of game birds may be taken at any time. No game may be taken by trapping, nor by use of swivel guns or sunken batteries, nor during the night from one hour after sundown to one hour before sunrise. FUR BEARING ANIMALS. No beaver, mink, rauskrat, sable, martin, otter or fisher may be hunted or taken except between ist November and ist May, and any one finding any traps set for them during any other time, may destroy the traps without incurring any liability. No muskrat houses may be broken into at any time. Where imported kind of game is preserved by any one " on their own lands," no one can hunt it without the consent of the owner of the land. No hound or dog, known to pursue deer, shall be allowed to run at large from the 15th Nov. to the following 15th Oct. No deer can be exported from Ontario. FINES. Not less Not mor« than than In case of ('eer Each offence $10 $50 In case of birds or eggs " 5 25 In case ot fur trapping " 5 25 Other breaches " 5 25 Costs are payable in addition to fines. The whole fine goes to the inspector, or to the prosecutor if not an inspector. I St J any. i8t May. ist Jany. 15th March. wild turkey, 1 15th Octo- sssion except )eing exposed wivel guns or after sundown fisher may be May, and any , may destroy houses may be one " on their the owner of llowed to run ess Not mor« than $50 ; 25 25 ine 25 goes to the THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, List of Islands and Owners. LAKE MUSKOKA. 191 Namk. Owners. Nos. I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 13 H 15 18 21 25 26 27 28 29 30 • Camp Comfort 31 E. Morris. 32 J. H. Morris. 35 Columbia Madame Janeck» 36 Murillo 37 Home H. C. Rodick. 38 Fairholm ;... W. E. Foot. 39 Duncan 40 Marion's 41 J. McNabb. 44 The Brothers R. T. Pope 45 J.H.Morris. 46 Burnt 47 Birch 48 P'rank 49 Frank 50 Eilian Gowan 52 Chief Horse Shoe Barker. One Tree Wolesley Apollo Sappho Kfcwaydin Mrs. Ross. Hillerest H iawatha PViday. Seven Si-iters Robinson Crusoe Crown Ship Gibraltar Prof. Taverner. Morris ■ Shaw Wunilah 192 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, %■ LAKE MUSKOKA-(C»«^^.) iff^^Bi i- ( 1 \ i i • 1 Nos. 54 Browning's, Name. Owners. 57 5« 59 6o 6i 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 7.? 76 79 80 83 84 92 <( < < Walker's, Delamere J. M . Delamere. S. Denison. Twin Bluffs Wm. Millar. Island V R. K. Burgess. Plumpudding Fishermana Beach Grove . . . T. E. Moberly. I leydon G. T. Denison. Crawford's Rankin Gairney Broonjleigh Whitt Ault-Dowrie Gull Katago Mary Daisy Henry Percy Nos. Name. Owners. 1 Shady J. Maclennan. 2 3 H. Kingsmill. 6 Picnic Jas. Maclennan. 7 McKeaggie J. McKeaggie. 8 9 Jaw Bone 18 R. K. Burgess. Point Idleswood Mrs. Little. 19 Rev. M. Sanson. 20 Carter E. T. Carter. 21 Yorum Mr. Murray. 22 Mazengah C. E. Blachford. 72 , H. P. Dwight. M. NERS. Delamere. nison. Millar. Kurgess. . Moberly. '. Denison. Owners. Maclennan. . Kingsmill. s. Maclennan. McKeaggie. . K. Burgess. rs. Little, ev. M. Sanson. . T. Carter. X. Murray. . E. Blachford. [. P. Dwight. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. LAKE ROSHEAU ^(Con/iHuit/). 193 No«. Name. Owners, 33 Fairy Lands G. C. Lilly. 24 Prospect 25 Olive ..".'.Robt. Baldwin. 26 Beacon Dr. Hall. 27 Cedar C. S. Warren. 28 Oak Dr. Hall. — Flora Dr. Hall. 29 Goulding G. Goulding. Point Eagle's Nest J.C.Lilly. 30 Sunny Side R. K. Burgess. Point Aurora Mr. Beddoe. 31 Fair View R. K. Burgess. 32 Edith R. L. Gunn. 33 Violet Capt. Ord. 34 Warsaw do. Arthur do 36 St. Leonard's Hon. W. Cayley. 37 Red Capt. Ord. 38 White do. 39 Blue do 40 Cassic ..., 41 H. Baker. 42 Bohemia J. S. Ploskell. 43 •••• K. Moysey. 44 Bakers A. Baker. 45 Vacuna Mr. Scadding. 46 Craster T. W. Thomas. 48 Bass J. P. Clark. 49 Caledonia P. M. Shannon. 50 Florence W. J. Florence. 51 Wellesley J. E.Smith. 52 Silver Mrs. Molesworth. 53 Norway A. F. Macdonald. LAKE JOSEPH. Nos. Name. Owners. J j Summit House H. Fraser 3 Round Jas. Maclennan 4 do Point Burgess R. K. Burgess. 5 ..Jas. Maclennan. M 194 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. LAKE JOSEPH— (C^«/m//we, A^oods. rrison. ler. Farlane. Crews. Smyth, adding, binson. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. LALE ]OS>^Vn— {Continued.) Nos. Name. Owners. 54 Perch Dr. Hodgins. 55 Grant J. Minto. 56 Bass Dr. Hodgins. 57 Pickerel do Point Redwood , Mrs. Ardagh. 58 E. Cox. 59 Stowe Dr. Stowe. Point Dr. G. Wright. THE CLIFTON HOUSE, NIAGARA FALLS, Is so situated on the bank of the river that from its windows and balconies a comprehensive view of the Great Cataract may be had. The view at night of the American Falls Illumined by the Electric Light, the varied hues of the falling waters, and the strange play of light of many colours upon the ever-rising foam, is grand beyond description. From no other first-class Hotel at Niagara can a view of the Falls and Electric Illumination be had. IT IS SEEN ONLY FROM "THE CLIFTON." The Cuisine and Service of The Clifton will be carefully maintained at the highest excellence, and no pains spared to make the stay of visitors pleasant and enjoyable. Parlours and Rooms with Baths attached may be had en suite. OMNIBUS FARE SAME AS TO AND FROM OTHER HOTELS AT NIAGARA. I Address, a. M. OOLBURN, Proprietor, NIAGARA FAI,IiS, N.Y. INDEX TO CO]!fTENTS. PAGE A Little Farther On 3 The Hudson River Route 6 The Delaware Valley Route 7 To and From the West 9 Niagara Falls I2 The Niagara River. Along the American Side IS The ' ' Gorge" of Niagara 1 7 Qnemston Heights. Where the Falls once were. . ., . . 2i Speech of Justice Macaulay 22 Speech of Sir John Robinson 23 Brock's Monument 24 The View from the Summit 25 Along the Canadian Side 27 Niagara-on-the-Lake 27 The Battle of Queenston Heights 29 The Death of Brock 3' The Forts of Niagara. The Early Struggles 33 The French Occupation 34 The British Occupation 36 The Americans take Fort George 39 The Canadians retake Ft. Ni'gara 40 Map of Niagara River 41 Lake Ontario 42 Toronto Island 44 Toronto as a Summer Resort.. . . 45 The City of Toronto. Name and Early History 47 King Street 5° Yonge Street 5^ Map of Toronto 53 Street Car Routes 54 Drives 55 The Public Buildings. The First Railway 5^ Custom House 57 PAGE Banks 57 St. James' Cathedral 58 The Public Library 59 Metropolitan Church 60 St. Michael's Cathedral 60 The Normal School 61 The Picture Galleries 61 " How Perseus brought back the Gorgon's head" 62 Baptist Church 64 Horticultural Gardens 65 Osgoode Hall 66 The Parks 68 The Universities 69 University of Toronto 69 Knox College.., 71 Trinity College 72 Government House 74 Grand Opera House 75 " Off for a real good Fish" 77 The Northern Railway. Height of Land 78 Vale of Aurora 78 Holland River 79 Bradford 80 The Severn River Chain. Lake Simcoe 81 Allandale 81 Orillia 84 Lake Couchiching 85 Sparrow Lake 88 Kasheshebogamog 88 Canoe Route to Waubaushene ... From Niagara Falls via Hamilton.. 91 Burlington Beach 93 The North Western R. R 94 " My Little Girl's first Fish " .. . . 95 The Lakes ofMuskoka.. Water and Rocks 99 INDEX TO CONTENTS. 197 S. PAGE 57 5S 59 6o ral 6o 6i ; 6i jht back the 62 64 IS 65 66 68 69 69 71 72 74 75 Fish" 77 78 78 79 80 ain. 81 81 '.' 84 85 88 ;.v;.'. 88 lubaushene ... ia Hamilton.. 9^ 93 iR.R 94 St Fish" .... 95 3 Port Rosseau 123 The Shadow River 125 Maplehurst 126 Venetia 128 Oaklands 129 Femdale 129 Clevelands 131 Gregory 131 Port Sandfield 132 Lake Joseph 134 Joseph River., 135 Craigie Lea 136 Little Lake Joe 137 Yo-ho-cu-ca-ba 137 Port Cockburn 138 Echo Rocks 139 Canoe Route to Parry Sound.. .. 140 Crane Lake 140 The Moon River 141 The New Railway. Utterson 142 Huntsville i42 The Muskoka River Chain. Canoe Route to the Headwaters. 143 Lake Vernon 143 Hoodstown 143 Fox Lake 144 Axe Lake 144 Doe Lake 145 Canoe Route hy North Branch. Fairy Lake , , , , 146 PAOE Mary Lake 146 Port Sydney 146 Canoe Route by South Branch. Peninsula Lake 147 Rocky Portage 148 Lake of Bays 149 Baysville) 149 Camp Fires .. 150 Madawaska River I51 Erastus Wiman 151 The Maganetawan River Chain. Melissa 152 Katrine 152 Burk's Falls 152 Sport 153 Lake Se-see-be 154 Lake Ah.Mic... 155 Lake Wah-wa-kesh 155 Canoe Route to Byng Inlet 155 The Seguin River Chain. Whitestone Lake 156 McKellar 156 Canoe Route to Parry Sound 156 Canoe Route to Lake Joseph.. .. 156 The French River Chain. Sundridge 156 South River 157 Canoe Route to Lake Nipissing. . 157 Commanda 1 58 Canoe Route to Restoul Lake.... 158 Megancma 158 Lake Nipissing. Callender 158 La Vase.. 158 The Earliest Ro'Ue to the North- West 159 Champlain 160 Cadieux . . 160 A la Claire Fontaine i6% The Parry Island Archipelago, Penetanguishene 162 The Archipelago 163 Parry Sound 164 The Hurons and French in the Early Days 165 The Georgian Bay, CoUingwood 168 198 INDEX TO CONTENTS. PAGE Blue Mountains 169 Meaford 169 Owen Sound 170 The Great Maniioulin Channel. She-ba-wa-naning 170 Manitowaning 1 72 Algoma Mills 172 St. Mary's River I73 Sault Ste, Marie 1 74 Mackinac. The Island 175 Military History 176 The North Shore, Lake Superior. Michipicoten Islam' 177 Slate Islan'^ 177 PARE Nepigon 178 Thunder Cape 169 Port Arthur . 180 The Past and the Present 180 Fort William 181 Kakabekah Falls 182 Duluth 183 Our Country 184 Hints as to Routes 185 ♦* •• Camping Outfit 188 Guides 188 The Game Laws 189 Names and Owners of Islands, Lake Muskoka 191 Lake Eosseau 191 Lake Joseph.... 193 INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. Transportation. Paoe. Great Northern Transit Co 205 Canada Transit Co 204 Northern and North- Western R. R 206 New York Central R. R 203 Niagara Navigation Co 202 Lehigh Valley R. R 8 Hudson River Day Line 208 People's Line 208 Muskoka Navigation Co 207 Steamer Southern Belle 7 Merchants Line 210 Sundries. Rice, Lewis & Son, hardware iv W. A. Bradshaw, grocer and ship goods, iv J. Mallon & Co. , butchers v Geo. Verrall, cabs v D. Pike, tents, etc vi D. Millman, photos vi W. McDowell, fishing tackle vii J. E. Ellis, jewellery viii Fulton, Michie & Co., camping supplies 201 P. C. Allan, camp furniture 199 Aikenhead & Crombie, hardware and fishing tackle 199 Alkock, Laipht & Co., fishing tackle . . 222 Woltz Bros,, jewellery 200 Cox & Co., brokers 200 Chi I a Hall, chiiiaware 201 W. Hanna & Co., general store 214 Jordan, general store 214 Thob. Walters, saw mill , 214 J. S. V/allis, general store 215 Faos. F. D. Stubbs, grocer 215 Sewell Bros., tourists' supplies 210 Hotels. Niagara Falls— Clifton House 198 Niagara-on-the-Lake— Queen's Royal. . . 2 Toronto— American 223 '• Queen's ii " Revere 223 " Rossin Back cover " Walker 3 Burlington Beach Hotel 7 Muskoka. Beaumaris- Prowse Hotel 218 Port Carling— Vanderburgh House 213 *• Strattoii House 213 •' Oai^land Park Hotel 215 Windermere— Aitken Hotel 219 Rosseau— Monteith House 214 Ferndale— Penson Hotel 217 Clevelands— C. J. Minett 217 Maplehurst— Brown's Hotel 210 Port Sandfif Id— Prospect House 212 Craigielea—Crai^ielea House 214 Port Cock burn— Summit House 209 Ah-Mic Harbour— Croswell Hotel 214 Huntsville— Domir.ion Hotel 217 Baysville - Forest House 219 Parry Soi'ND— Bel videre Hotel 216 CoLLiNOWOOD— Globe Hotel 220 " Central Hotel 220 Meaford— Paul's Hotel 221 Noble's Hotel 121 Port Arthur— The Northern Hotel 219 HEADQUARTERS PASE 178 169 . 180 nt 180 181 182 183 184 , 185 [itfit 188 188 189 znds. 191 191 193 Paob. 216 'lies 210 >use 198 n's Royal. . . 2 223 ii 223 .... Back cover 3 7 218 I House 213 use 213 k Hotel 216 1 219 214 217 217 1 210 ouse 212 36 214 ouse 209 Hotel 214 el 217 219 iotel". "..."...' 216 220 tel 220 221 121 >rn Hotel.... 219 — FOR— Tents, Camp-Furniture, Hammocks, &c., &;c. FOLDING CHAIRS AND STOOLS FOR STEAHB0ATIN6 IN GREAT VARIETY. Just the thing for the lawn, ve- randah or ** The coolest place in the house." Price only $2.60. The Champion Folding Camp- Cot opens and shuts like a Jack- knife, and will cary half a ton weight with per- fect safety. When not in use occupies no more space than a broom. Expressed to any addres on receipt of 32.50 or C. 0. D. Write for complete illustrated catalogue of abov goods ; also of out-door games, LAWN TEiyjyiS, BASE BALL., CRICKET, LACROSSE, &c., &c., to p. G. ALLAN'S City News and Games Depot, 36 KlINO STREET TV^EST, TORONTO, AIKENHEAD & GROMBIIS, Corner King and Youge Streets, Toronto, —IMPORTERS OF- I^odgeps' pine Pocl^ct and I'able Cutlery, GALVANIZED BOAT and CANOE FITTINQS, Cordage, Oakum, Bloeks, Fine Iron Stable Fittings and Patent Magic Feed-Box. Builders', Machinists', Carvers,' Blacksmiths' Supplies and every description of Hardware. Fishing Tackle and Dog Collars In Great Variety. 199 Establislied 1830. nil .'.'■? WOLTZ BIOS. & CO., IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN OIAIVIONDS, Fine Swiss and American Watches, Gold Chainh, Ladies Gold and Silver Jewel- lery, Gold Headed CSanes, Gold Thimbles, Sterling Silver and Eleoto- Plated Ware, etc., etc. We would call sepcial attention to our fine adjusted Swiss Watches, Minute Re- peaters, Sporting Watches, with independent split second ; also single flyback at- tr^hments, fine open face watches suitable for railroad conductors and engineers. ETerjr Watch Warranted to Give Sattsliactloii. Our $20.00 Diamond Rings, The best value in the market. Sent by mail on receipt of price. WOLTZ BEOS. & 00., 99 King Street East, Toronto, Ont. oozs: &c oo., . STOCK BROKERS, (MEMBERS TORONTO STOCK EXOHANG-E.) Have the only Independent Direct Wire giving continuous New York Stock quo- tations, and which are received Quicker Than bt Any Other Line. Buy and Sell on Commission for Cash or on Margin ALL SECURITIES DEALT IN ON THE TORONTO, MONTREAL, AND NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGES. ■'^' ALiO EXECUTE OBDEBB ON THE CHICAGO BOARD OF TRADE In G-rain and Provisions. DaUy Cable <|notatlons of Hudson's Bay and other stoeki 26 TORONTO STREET. 200 II JO., Silver Jewel< Eleoto- i, Minute Be- lie flyback at- d engineers. Ion. ngs, iceipt of price. O9 Ont. ,^i» if- RS, GE.) rk Stock quo- R Line. ONTREAL, IDE iier stock! I ^ 49 King 8t. Ea^t, Toronto. P One of Toronto's Greatest Attractions. ITS ART ROOM ALWAYS FILLED WITH ORNAMENTS OF THE LATEST DESIGNS FROM THE BEST EUROPEAN MARKETS. Dinner, Dessert, Tea and Breakfast Sets In English and French China and Stone PARIAN MARBLE, Bisque and Bronze Figures and Ornaments, ELECTRO-PLATE, LAT EST NOVELT I SS. ' ■ :, HOTEL GLASS, CHINA AND OUTLEET A SPECIALTY. GLOVER HARRISON. Proprietor FX7LT0N, MICHIE & CO., C3- K^ O C E I^/ S , WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANTS, are prepared to supply a full assortment of every requisite for CAMPING, FISHING AND SHOOTING. Soups, Heats and Tegetables, Hams and Bacon, etc., etc. ALL KINDS OF UQUOKS, TOBBAOCO AND CIGARa Goods Fa«>ked Carefully and Promptly Delivered. ,, 7 King Striscrt West^ Toronto. 20X SHORTEST ROUTE BETWEEN — AND— All Points North and East in Ontario — AND— NIAGARA FALLS. BUFFALO, NEW YORK, BOSTON, Philadelphia, Washington, Pittsburgh, Erie, 0?9veland, Cincinnati, and all Points South of the Lakes. NIAGARA NAVIGATION COMPANY lil! '^CHICORA" Leaves Yonga Street Wharf, Toronto, daily (except Sundays) at 7 a.m. and 2 p.m. for Niagara and Lewiston ; coming north, leaves Lewiston (Eastern time) 10 a.m. and 5.30 p.m. and Niagara-on-tiiS-Lake half an hour later, making close connec- tions with the New York Central and Michigan Central Railways. Through Tickets to all points East and West. For tickets and all information, apply at office on steamer or to all agents on railways connecting with Buffalo. BARLOW CUMBELANI \ Ticket Agent, 35 Tonge &; TORONTO. JOHN FOY, Manager, Toronto. When going to the Thousand Islands or St. Law- rence Rapids, or to Niagara Falls, do nr t foil to see the Historic Niagara RlTcr. 203 JTE TARIO roN, eveland, ii\.\}at IPANY Lm. and 2 p.m. a time) 10 a.m. ig close connec- lys. Through ation, apply at Buflfalo. I FOY, lager, Toronto. r St. liaw- to see the N©"^ York Central -AND— Hudson River Railroad. THE FAVOURITE ROUTE FOR TOURISTS Solid trains with luxurious Parlour and Sleeping Cars from Suspension Bridge, Niagara Falls and Buffalo to NEW YORK AND BOSTON. THE NEW YORK CENTRAL affords its patrons the best accommodation and the finest scenery on the American Continent, embracing views ,X'VX'V%% For a CHEAP TRIP and SOLID COMFORT take the Which connects at Collingwood and Penetan- guishene with Steamers for G-rand and Pic- f^iS^'^'^'^^'^' turesque Resorts of the Georgian Bay, Lakes Huron and Superior. TOURISTS' RATES.— Tourists' or Sportsmen's Tickets are good to stop over at any point north of Barrie, and return up till close of Navigation. Camp equipage, stores and dogs are carried free when accompanied by owners. Baggage checked to principal points on lakes. For Tickets, Bates, Time Tables, etc., apply to Agents at all principal Ticket Offices in Canada or XJnited States, or to SAMUEL BARKER, Gen. Manager^ Toronto. ROBERT QUINN, Chn. Paa$. Agent, Tivronto. BARLOW CUMBERLAND, Ticket Agent, 33 Yonge St., Toronto. 206 !l )rnRy ICT, f Ontario. with Steamera Lakes, mmer Rc- i¥ Rates. ind SOLID the md Penetan- •and and Pic- orgian Bay, re good to stop 'igation. Camp ^mers. )rincipal Ticket ^RKER, anager, Toronto. JINN, Agent, T\yronto. MUSKOKA k NIPISSING NAY. CO. DAILY PASSENGER STEAMERS Upon the Lakes of Muskoka, between Gravenhurst, (on the N. & N.W. Railway), Braoebridge. Beaumaris* Bala, Port Oarlinff, Windermere, Port Sandfleld, Rosseau and Port Oookbum, &o. Upon the Upper Maganetawan Waters, between Buck's Falls on the N. & P.J. Railway), Masranetewan Village, Depot Farms and Ah-Mio Harbour. Upon Lake Nipissing, between North Bay, (upon the O. P. Railway), Callander, Nipissing Village, &o. The ftiost Attractive and Popular Resorts in America. EXCURSIOX TICKETS, Good for Thirty or more days, to be had in the principal cities and towns of Canada and the United States. SPECIAL. STEAHIERS, IVICELY FITTED IJP FOR THE VSE OF PRITATE PARTIES, To be had at moderate rates. Good Hotel accommodation aboundi throngfiout the Lake Districts at moderate rates. ROBT. QUINN, Oen. Pass. Ag^ent N. ft N. W. Railwaim. A. P. COCKBURN, Oen. Manager M. ft N. Nay. Co'y. TORONTO TICKET AGENCY at B. Cumberland's, 35 Yonge St. 207 1 < II HUDSON RIVER BY DAYLIGHT —VIA THE- .' ' ^ - ~n A LIIsTE Of Palace Steamers on the Hudson River —AND THE- New Yorl[ Genliial \ pim t^ivei' \^ Leave Albany 8.30 a.m., Arrive at IVeur York 5.30 p,ni. Leaye New York (Sunday excepted), Vestry Si. Pier, 8.40 a.iii., 22nd St. Pier, N. R., 9 a.m., (making principal landings) arriving at Albany (foot Hamilton St.). 6.10 p.m. T/<)ina from utlca, Oeueva, Niagara Falls, Buffalo, Lewlston, Toronto, Cleve- land, Chicago, Alexandria Bay and the Thousand Islands, reach ALBANY in time to connect with the Morning Boat for New York, and going North Trains leave after arrival of Boat. Bertha in Sleeping Cars can be secured on the Steamer. ]G»e Sure and Secure Tickets v.j. this Route. Dining Rooms on main deck, a la carte, open from 7 a.m. Drawing Rooms for Parties. C. T. VAN SANTVOORD, ) VESTKY STREET PIEB, ( C. R. VANBENTHUYSEN Gen'l Manager. New York City. Gen'l Ticket Agent. li XEW YORK TO ALBANY, DREW, -• Oapt. S. J. Roe. | ST. JOHN, Oapt. Thos. Post* FROM PIER 41, NORTH RIVER, South Side of Canal Street, near Jersey City Ferry, Debrosses Street, AT 6.00 P.M. Connecting at AuBAVY, except Sunday, with trains of the New York Central for the West, and with trains for Saratoga and all the summer resorts of Lake George and Lake Champlain. ALBANY TO NEW YORK. ST. JOHN, Oapt. Thos. Post. | DREW, - Capt. S. J. Roe. LEAVE ALBANY AT 8.00 P.M. On arrival of trains from the NORTH and WEST, change from cars to Boat. Baggage transferred FREE between N. Y. Central R.R. and Steamers at Albany. TICKETS and STATEROOMS secured by telegraph and telephone iu Albany, at the Office, Steamboat Square, and tickets for sale at all the principal railroad ticket offices in the EAST, NORTH and SOUTH. J. H. ALLAIRE, Gen. Ticket Agent. M. B. WATERS. Qen. Pafls. Agent. E. C. SHAFFER, Agent, Albany. 208 LIGHT CsTB River >k5.30p.iii. ier, S.40 a.m., ings) arriving at n, Toronto, Cleve- ch ALBANY in time leave after arrival of Route. looms for Parties. VANBENTHUYSEN n'l Ticket Agent. )t. Thos. Post' rosses Street, tral for the West, and ike Champlain. apt. S. J. Roe. lars to Boat. tamers at Albany. Albany, at the Office, b offices in the EAST, Pass. Agent. Summit House and Island Park, Port Cockbum, Lake Joseph, llluskoka. E'OXi FAMILIES, TO URISTSan dSPORTSMEN, This favourite house has been enlarged this season, making it the largest hotel in Muskoha ; is beautifully situated at the head of Lake Joseph (the prettiest of the Muskoka Lakes); commands fine lake and forest views -, daily steamer, post and telegraph offices in house* EXCELL.ENT BLACK ABkO ROCK BASIS," PICKEREL AIVD SALHOBf TROVT FISHIIVO. HAMILTON ERASER, ProprietOi. liAKEB OF MU^ 'A( Boats, Yachts, Canoes, Tents for Hire. TOUEISTS AND OAMPINa PAETIES Supplied at Moderate Rates. Boats Forwarded to any Point Desired. A Good supply is kept by the undersigned at Port Oarlinjr and Windermere as well as Rosseau, where all applications should be sent. OABS, PABSLES AND BOWLOOES EEFT FOB SALE. HENRY DITCH BURN, Boat Builder, Rosseau 209 APIaESHURST LAKE ROSSEAU. This hotel has just been erected regardless of expense, with a view to thc> comfort of the summer tourists, and is charmincrlv situated on one of the most ro mantic spots on these waters. A first class table will be kept and every possible amusement for the guests. A daily mail will be brought to the house and constant communication kept by ferry with Bosseau, which is three-ciuarters of a mile dis- tant. The steamboat calls daily, leaving guests right at their destination. A fleet of boats will be kept at the house, which is surrounded by a charming grove of silver birch, ashen, and evergreen. PARTIES WPO DESIRE TO SPEND A PLEASANT SUMMER WITH PLENTY OF BOATING, FISHING, BATHING Etc, will find this resort one of the mos^ .omfortable and commodious on this beautiful c: ir of lakes. J. P. BROlWar, Propg. 1869- ESTABLISH iD 1869. SEWELL BROlS., Grocers and Italian Warehousemen, IMPORTERS OF Fine Wines, English and French Fancy Groceries AND DEALCR8 HT ALL KINDS OF TOURISTS' SUPPLIES, No. 32 JAMES ST., HAMILTON, CANADA. Intending Tourists and "^amping Parties to our Northern Lakes anr' other parts of West- ern Canada, durini; the coming summer will find it to their advantage to purchase their supplies from us. Send for catalogue and prices. All orders by mail will receive prompt and careful attention. Merchants Line. MONTREAL, TORONTO, CLEVELAND, CHICAGO. UPPER CABIN STEAMERS Armenia, Cuba and California. These Steamers have magnificent full length cabins, and are elegantly fitted up, and have all the comforts and conveniences of a first- class hotel. State-rooms are all furnished with woven wire mattresses, making the most luxuriously comfortable bed. They will ply regularly between MONTREAL & CHICAGO cdling at all principal way-ports, during the season of navigation, passing through the beautiful Scenery of the Thousand Islands, calling at TORONTO every THURSDAY at 10 a.m., going east, and 9.30 p.m., going west. Berths can be secured fn advance bj' applying to HAOARTY & CO., 56 King St. East, Toronto. Or to B. €U]!nBERL.A]IVD, 35 Yonge St., Toronto. 210 %t » a view to the )f the most ro every possible e and constant of a mile dis- ation. A fleet ming grove of LBNTY OF HING Ddious on this Line. )NTO, CHICAGO. SAMERS [ California. [ficent full length ed up, and have iences of a flrst- ire all furnished making the most . They will ply IL& CHICAGO )ort8, during the ing through the [lousand Islands, HURSDAY at 10 •.m., going west, ance 03' applying A CO., East, Toronto. RL.A1IVD, ; St., Toronto. THE NEW HOTEL At the Head of the Lake and near the Shadow River. < (/) O w < I H en X w < Special Kates Made for Families. Correspondence Solicited. J. P. BROWN, Proprietor. 211 MUSKOKA. IiAKES. ^xHptt ^mH FORI' g^plDFIELD, ENOCH COX, Proprietor. Terms, $1.50 Per Day. Special Terms for Families. The Hotel stands at the junction of Lakes Rossead and Joseph, commands a fine view of both lakes ; can accommodati) over one hundred guests ; roomy piazzas extend around the house. An excellent table is also set at this house and is one of its leading features, and no pains will be spared by the proprietor to make the stay of guests at Prospect House ; pleasant in every respect. Gentlemen visiting the Lakes, accompanied by their families, will find Prospect House a very desirable house to stay at. Ladies and young people can here indulge in boating without the least danger, as it is always free from rough water. A FINE SAIVDY BEACH FOB BATHIIVO. It is well noted for its The steam yacht " Sunbeam " makes daily trips from the Hotel during the en- tire season. Post-office on the premises ; daily mail. PROSPECT HOUSE, in the fall, is a favourite resort for sportsmen. Guides and hounds kept. 212 M' nUlf lilies. commands a ;8 ; roomy o set • families, use least danger, uring the en- nen. Guides f ©rt §mlM§ iiinEiii^ip m^m% CHERRY GROVE. VANDERBURGH HOUSE . Tourists will not find flies here at any season of the year, making a very deairable place in the early part of Summer for Tourists wishing to spend the most desirable part of the season in pure air. aa ,^^ THE PICTURESQUE STEAM LAUNCH We»® A great favourite with American and Canadian tourists is owned by the Proprietor of the House ; the "Kate " has beenrofitted with new engines, and is the fastest Yacht on these Lakes, and may be hired on reasonable terms to touch at all points of interest. Building Material delivered to any part of Lake by Contract. Address all communications to O. W. VANDERBURGH. STRATTON HOUSE, This Hotel is delightfully situated at the junction of Indian River and Lake Rosseau. Passengers from Toronto and Hamilton arrive here at from 4 to 5 p. m. the same day. A very convenient stopping place. Guests patronizing the house will find it as comfortable as any Hotel on the Lakes, and their wants promptly attended to. Accommodation for 50 people. The rooms are large and airy, and a liberal table is a leading feature of the House. The surrounding scenery being fine, artists will find full scope for their pencils. Sportsmen will have some of the best bass fishing to be had on these waters, as Lake Rosseau and Muskoka, as well as Silver Lake are within very easy distance of the House. A commodious enclosed Bathing House for Visitors. Lawn Tennis Ground. A superior class of Boats on hand for hire by the day or week. Terms for Board, from $1.26 per day.— Special terms by the week or month. JOHN FBASER, Proprietor. 21S ROSSEAU. Good A'^^ommodation for Touristi. nRST-CLASS TABLE, LARGE RCOMS, BATH ROOMS, &C. Billard Room and Roller Skating Rink. JOHN MONTEITH, Fropr. Craigielea House, LAKE JOS EPH. This house has been improved and refitted since last sea- son and visitors will find comfortable quarters and some of the Best Fishing in tlie District. CAMPERS, TOURISTS, SPORTSMEN Close to the entrance to Little Lake Joseph. JOHN C. WALLS, E^roprietor. PORT CARLING - FULL SUPPLY OF— Dry Goods,Boots 4 Shoes, Hardware FRESH GROCERIES AND PROVISIONS. Camping parties and tourists will find Fishing Tackle, Butter, Eggs, Fresh Bread always on hand. ?ROMFr ATTENTION OIVKN TO BUSINESS. W. HANNA & 00. —00 TO- JORDAN'S General Store^ ROSSEAU, FOR Ms% Tuckle, Tents, Coal Oil Stoves AND ALL SUPFLIES. TENTS FOR HIRE. - N E W- SAW and PLANM MILL. The undersigned has erected a new saw and planing mill near Craigielea, at the en- trance to Little Lake Joseph, where he will keep a supply of all kinds of rough and dressed LUMBER AND SHINGES. Building Contracts Taken TfSTIMATGS FURNISHED. THOMAS WATERS. Craigielea P.O., Lake Joseph. AH-MIC HARBOUR, One of the best locations for Sportsmen and tourists in Parry Sound District ; can reach it from Toronto the same day by Gravenhurst and Burk's Falls, down the Maganetewan River into Ah-Mic Lake ; good accommodation for travellers or tourists ; I'he best Hunting and Fishing in the district ; boats and livery on hand ; charges moderate ; mail three times a week ; steamboat lands at the door ; goat's milk kept for sickly children and adults, which is highly recommended. JOHN CROSWELL, Prop'r, ▲h-Mic Harbour, P.O., Muskoka. 214 ORTSNEN KlStOTM i. IRE. MILL. lew saw and at the en- , where ' all NCES. I Taken CERS. jseph. lUR, ortsmen and can reach it Graven hurst ^aganetewan jommodation !st Hunting ts and livery il three times door ; goat's adults, which Prop'r, lakoka. PORT CARLINQ. PORT OARLINQ. -GO TO- JOS. S. WALLIS' CilFEIlS iig TOMISTS' SUPPLIES. DEALER IN GOOD TRESH General Merehant GROOERTEf^ FOR Orj Boods, Mesi fiooli & Slioei, PEOVISIONS, CONFECTIONERY, HARDWARE. FISHING TACKLE. — ALSO- Lumber, Timber «nd Shingles. DRY GOODS PLANING AND MATCHING A SPECIALTY. BOOTS A SHOES. BUILDERS' SUPPLILS. Camied Ooods of Every Description. Communications by letter promptly answered. FREDERICK D. STUBBS, AKI C/l § B ex C0 Telephone Conmiunlcatlon with all parts of the town. THOMAS COLLINS, ^ - Proprietor. 220 firwood Harbour roBort to en- and Boats, all parts of PAUL'S HOTEL, MEAFORD. TERMS, $ 1.50 per day. Special Rates for Families. Pleasant Verandahs and Gardens on tlie River Bank. FREE 'BUS TO ALL TRAINS & BOATS. MBS. S. FAT7L. MBMl ^ If IIP imp MEAFORD, ONT. RATES, $1.00 per day. SPECIAIi RATES given for Famlllea by the Week. ■;o;- Boats can be hired at reasonable Bates. PLENTY OF FRESH FISH AND FRESH AIR. -:o:- JUST THE PLACE TO SPEND A QUIET HOLIDAY. JAMES NOBLE, PROPRIETOR. 221 FISHING TACKLE. Rods, Lines, Flies, Hooks, Baits, Reels, Needles and Small wares. Toronto Warehouse. ALLGOGK, LAIGHT & WESTWOOD, D>w!i:.Au3srxj:F.A.oTXJi?.EES, RBDDITCH, ENGLAND, and Wellington Street West, Toronto, Ontario. ^Oa/ cackle *^^,^0- B. WESTWOOD, Resident Partner. N. B. -Fishing Rods & Tackle made on the pre- mises. 222 ! K L E . 1 -A-3s^E:Rio.A.isr scoTsri Reels, Needles and Smallwaret>. STWOOD, a to, Ontario. N. B. -Fishing Rods «& Tackle made on the pre- mises. COR. YOIVOE and FROIVT STS., TORONTO, ONT. ED. H. ED3ALL, Manager. THOS. TAYLOR, Propr. H. G. EDSALL, Clerk. RATES, $2.00 PER DAY And graded according to rooms. Special Rates to Theatrical People and the CoMNtEKciAL Trade. This favourite old hosteller han just undergone a thorough course of renovat- ing, remodeling and refitting throughout, and now stands second to no .?2.00 per day house in the Dominion. The cuisine will be found equal to that f)f any hotel in the Queen City, and neither pains nor expense are spared in seeing that guests are jjroperly cared for. The Amauican is the only hotel in Toronto running Frei" 'Buss to and from all trains, steamboats, etc., and it is safe to say that gtiests once stoppiug there will not fail to do so again. MSYMMS MBWBM COR. KING AND YORK STREETS, r. TORONTO. Situated ill tiic l>usiiie§§ portion of tiie City. Five minutfis iralii from tlic Union Depot. Street Car§ pa8§ tlie door to all parts. I'fiE BE^l' $1.50 Per Day jiOlJ^E \f ZRi^mH. ''FECIAL ATTENTION TO TOCIllSTS. J. J. JAMESON, 223 Proprietor,