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D This Hmk is filmsd at ths raduction ratio chselcsd bslow / Cs doeumsnt sst Iilm4 au taux „n,iciit «d shall be «tend«d to New ZeaUnd and to the Doraiaion of Canada." THE Kixas SPEECH. op,-m„g of I\,tli..n,c>.t. Feb. 14. 19,11. WITH A PHOTOGRAVURE FRONTISPIECE, AND OVER ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS Toronto : WILLIAM BRIGGS ^ ^ j» .902 DA "74 fU Mi M* PREFACE THESE pages re-tell, with greater amplitude of detail and incident, the story which I was privileged to chronicle from day to day by cable for many millions of readers. It is the narrative of an Imperial progress, the like of which was never made before by any prince or monarch in the history ot the world, and the mere contemplation of which must cause every loyal subject of His Majesty at home and in "All the Britains beyond the Seas" to tingle with patriotic pride. In the course of the tour, which lasted seven and a half months, the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York, now Prince and Princess of Wales, travelled by land and sea little short of fifty thousand miles. In all that marvellous journey they never once set foot on soil which was not painted red upon the map, or over which the Union Jack did not fly, unless Egypt, which after all is a British protectorate, be excepted. The tour enabled millions to see and acclaim, for the first and only time, their future King and Queen. Their Royal VI preface Highnesses, on the other hand, were brought face to face and exchanged a hearty hand-grip with tens of thousands of the King's subjects of every class and degree ; and they had invaluable opportunities, of which they took full advantage, to study the social, educational, economic, and political condition of each State, Colony, or Dependency. The Prince's speeches, all the salient passages of which I reproduce textually, constitute a series of historic pronouncements of incal- culable political significance and the highest educational value. My warmest thanks are due to their Royal High- nesses for much personal kindness, and for the facilities I enjoyed in the fulfilment of a difficult task. I also desire to thank the Governors, Premiers, and admini- strative departments of the States and Colonies visited, as well as the First Lord of the Admiralty and the officers of the Ophir, St. George, Diadem, and Gibraltar, the ships in which I voyaged, for the courtesy and hospitality they extended to me. To Baron 'le Reuter I am indebted for the use I have been p' litted to make of the telegraphic material which, a .lis repre- sentatives, I and those appointed to collaborate with me collected and transmitted at enormous cost. The bulk of my illustrations were secured by myself with the aid of a small hand camera which I had never manipulated before the tour began. For the remainder, including some of the most important, I tender my preface vii cordial acknowledgments to the photographers and others with whose permission they are reproduced — Messrs. West & Son, Southsea, the official photo- graphers ; Messrs. Notman & Son, Montreal ; Messrs. York & Son, London — from originals by Messrs. Roland Bishop & Co., Melbourne; Mr. A. W. Andree, Colombo; The Apothecaries' Co., Colombo; Mr. H. J. Brereton, Durban ; Mr. Alfred Pearse, special artist of the Sphere; Mr. C. W. Jefferys; and Dr. Manby. J. W. !! CONTENTS CHAPTER I Outward Bound i CHAPTER II Aden, Ceylon, and Singapore 31 CHAPTER III Melbourne • • 95 CHAPTER IV Queensland and New South Wales . . . 180 CHAPTER V New Zealand and Tasmania aa6 CHAPTER VI South Africa 306 CHAPTER VII Canada and Newfoundland . . . , . 338 CHAPTER VIII • Home Again . 414 I LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS T.K.H. TiiK DuKB AND DuciKiHn or Cornwall and York Thi; "Ofhir" on i ck Imi'oial Miixion The "Ophir" I'i.ninc. Saloooi . The "Oi'iiiK' MHAwt. '«KA f,f)KCrt:" PmINC ■■ ur W«LBl'!i ( MK^m . Aden. 1 n Parsei 1>i«»ttation The AntN Casket Aden Viulaoi ^- k ><» »« t«k Tank.. Ades \ Street . .i i Adex Vi*vv »-4i h ifMi Famo- , Tanks . CoLoii*>. TKft ; ^e* ^ koVAL 1'k M7 Milioviinb. The Grbat Rbvibw on Plbminoton Racb-Covrh 131 Mblbovbnb. Thb Tradbi' Procbruon. •■ Thb Ship or Statr " 133 Ballarat. Dvkb laving Poonoatiun Stonb or Soldibmr' Mbmorial . . . i6j Brirbanb. TaiDMrHAL Arch 187 Brisbanb. Thb Ddkb laving thb Povnoation Stonb or tub Nbw CaTHBDRAL IQj Bbmbanb. Loo-CHorriNo Compbtition at thb Aoricdltdral Show in Eihibition Grodndb 193 Brirbanb. Thb Dcrb convbriino with Mr. F. A. Nocb, a rbtibbd volcntbbr .... .... 197 Qvbbnblano. Thb Roval Train 199 QOBBNRLAND. BvBH PiCNIC— RoUNOING up CaTTIB ... 201 Qubrnkland. Bdhh Picnic— Billv Tba and Oampbr . 20J SvDNBv. The "Ophir" enterino the Harbour with the Duke AND DvcHBia OF York 303 SvDNBv. The Court or Empire— Exterior 309 SvDNBV. The Court op Empire— Interior jn Sydney. The Review by the Duke or York ^13 SvoNEV. Diitribvtion or War Medalr 223 Auckland. The Government Casket 229 Auckland. Dr. Campbell about to lead the Ducherr through THB Art Gallery 231 KiRi Matou, Chiee Poi Dancbb, rAHlLiARLV known as "Thb DCCHBSS" ,^i The Arawa Powhiri at Ohinemotu 243 RoTORi-A. The Powhiri at the Queen's Bust ... 247 RoTORUA. KiRi Matou Dancing 249 RoTORUA. A Leader of the Poi Dancing Girls Smoking her P'" 331 RoTORUA. The Haka— Major Fox and the Tribes -253 Rotorua Chiefs with their Standards 233 The Haka— Awaiting the Challenge 237 XIV Xtot of 5Hu8trations ii ; I I. ! 4 i RoTORUA. The Challenger awaiting the Signal 259 RoTORUA. The Great Maori Haka aOi KoTOKUA. The Presentation Canoe 263 •• Have you a Light ? " Maori Women pay Tribute to my Lady Nicotine. Bluejackets in background simultaneously lighting up 263 Christchurch. The Duke and Duchess at Service in the Cathedral 271 HoBART. The Apple Arch 281 HoBART. Loo-chopping Competition 283 HoBART. The Children's Welcome 387 HoBART. The Review agg Adelaide. I'rocession passing the Town Hall .... 293 At Sea. A Stroll on the Quarter-deck of H.M.S. "St. George" (Dr. Cropley, P.M.O., and the Author) . 300 H.M.S. " St. George." Revolver Drill 301 The "Ophir" at Mauritius 303 Durban. The Landing Stage 307 Durban. Russell Street, on the way to Albert Park, where the Addresses were Presented .... 309 Durban. Royal Arch, West Street 310 Durban. Lower West Street 311 Maritzburg. Arrival at the Town Hall 313 Maritzburg. The Duke Opening the New Town Hall . . 315 Maritzburg. Inspection of the V.C.'s and D.S.O.'s . -317 Maritzburg. Inspection of the V.C.'s and D.S.O.'s by the Duke and Lord Kitchener jjg Maritzburg. Lord Kitchener's Bodyguard of Cameron Highlanders ,,„ Maritzburg. His Royal Highness pinning the V.C. on the breast of a " Tommy " ^jj Maritzburg. The Duke shaking hands with an Officer after PINNING the V.C. on his BREAST 323 Maritzburg. The Zulu Chiefs and their following . 324 Maritzburg, The Zulu Demonstration 325 Cape Town. The Mayor presenting the City's Address . 327 Cape Town. Th« Royal Procession 329 _i^ Xfst of illustrations XV I'AOE Lerothodi, paramount Chief of the Uasutos .... 330 Cape Town. Native Chiefs with Gifts of Skin Mats . 331 Cape Town. Her Royal Highness inspecting the Chiefs' Gifts iii yuEiiEC. The "Ophir " in Harbour flving Stars and Stripes half-mast 339 The Royal Train 343 The Royal Train. Dining Car 347 Montreal. The Reception 349 Ottawa. H.R.H. unveiling the Queen's Statue . 359 Ottawa. Going Down the Rapids 361 The Rapids. Photographed from the front of the foremost "Crib" 3.' ;• colonial welcome ; and, except for the visit of the Duke of Edinburgh in 1868, no other opportunity had bi en afforded the Australians to show their attachment to the Reigning I'amily. When, therefore, it was announced that, in accordance with Her Majesty's desiie, the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York would make a tour of the Colonies and open the new Federal Parliament, the projec'. was everywnere hailed with delight and loyal enthusiasm. The ofiicia! intimation was explicit. The visit was to he not only a gracious compliment to the new Common- ,. , wealth, but was also intended to signify Its Announce „ xf • . . .. r , , . , ment. "'^'^ Majesty s "sense of the loyalty and devotion which have prompted the spon- taneous aid so liberally offered by the Colonies in the South African war, and of the splendid gallantry of her colonial troops." So acceptable was the proposal that other Colonies put in a claim for similar recogni- tion, and in the end the tour was extended to Natal, the Cape, and Canada. A programme was drawn up which involved the absence of the Duke and Duchess of Cornvvall from England for a period of nearl\- eight months. Between the announcement of the tour in the month of September, 1900, and " the spring of next year," _ .. - ^. the season tentatively fix^-d for the voyaire, Death 01 the it-- , ' - n > Queen. the Empire was plunged into mourning by the death of Queen Victoria. For a time it was generally assumed that the contemplated journey must necessarily be abandoned. The Duke of Cornwall, now Heir Apparent, contracted an illness which rendered it impossible for him to attend the Oueen's funeral, and this indisposition — an attack of German measles — together with the onerous duties of his new position in relation to the Throne, seemed to militate against so prolonged an absence from the United Kingdom as the tour entailed. All doubt on the subject ®tttvoar^ 3Soun^ »4 The Preparation!. was, however, set at rest by Kinfj Edward himself, who, notwithstandinj,' his natural reluctance to part with his only son at such a time, cabled on February lo to Lord Hopetoun, Governor- General of Australia, that, fully sharing as he did the wishes of her late Majesty, he had decided that the visit should proceed as arranged. Preparations for the eventful voyage were hurried forward. At the same time, Australia made ready to give the Royal pair a reception worthy of so memorable an occasion. The Federal Government appropriated no less a sum than £100,000, £'10,000 to be set apart for a permanent memorial of the visit, the remainder to be expended on militar\' demonstrations, the entertainmu. ■ of ten thou- sand guests of the State during Inauguration Week, and the decoration and illumination of the city of Melbourne. The City Corporation and many private individuals supplemented the efforts of the Government financially and otherwise. Since the tour comprised sea voyages of, in the aggregate, some 35,000 miles, considerable thought was bestowed upon the selection of the vessel which should convey the Heir Apparent and his Consort practically round the world. The choice fell upon the Orient Line twin-screw steamship Opiiir, which was reputed to be one of the safest and, at the same time, one of the most comfort- able ships afloat. With a system of water tight bulk- heads which would enable her to float though any two compartments were thrown open to the sea, and with two independent triple expansion engines capable of driving her at a speed of seventeen knots, the Ophir certainly fulfilled all the nautical conditions. Decorators and upholsterers were set to work to transform her into a luxurious Royal yacht, and this was accomplished with the utmost skill and good taste. The dining, drawing, and smoking rooms were refurnished, and a A 2 "■ H.M.8. Ophir." 4 Ube (Queen's Miab suite of apartments on the upper deck was reserved for the private use of the Duke and Duchess. The various rooms, corridors, and the grand staircase were adorned with numerous engravings of historic Royal functions, groups, and portraits, while in the private apartments were many reminders of home. Over the Duke's swing cot, for instance, was a photograph of Queen Alexandra and little Prince Edward of York, with the inscription " Grannie and Haby," and in his sitting-room a familiar I I >V((>/i» taiyii by thi Author in iriid-iHfan.\ The "Ophir" on her Imperial Miction portrait of the late Queen, signed " Victoria, R.I., June 22, 1897 ■■ (Jubilee Day). Portraits of the King, and, indeed, of all the members of the Royal Pupiily, were also disposed so as to meet the e\e at every turn. In the middle of each ceiling v.as a bue's-wing electric fan, destined to pnive a real Ixkjii in hot weather. In short, nothing that could conduce to Palace. comfort was omitted, and the elegance of all the fittings and upholstery lias pro- bably never been surpassed in any floating palace. Nor Outward Sound f I 6 TTbe atneen's tmtob was the external appearance of the ship neglected. Her hull was painted white, with a single mourning band of deep blue running round her sides. When ready for sea H.M.S. Ophir, as she had now become, since she had been placed in commi-v^ion for the tour, was as smart and dainty a craft as ever put out from port. It was generally expected that before sailing the Duke would receive the title Prince of Wales. But The "OpMr." Drawing Room the King decided otherwise. His Majesty had been so long and so universally known as " the Prince," that it was almost impossible for the public at once to think and speak of him as " the King," and it was obvious Mot M Prince *^** ^^^ *^^ ^^^^ ^^ Cornwall been im. of Walu. mediately created Prince of Wales, con- siderable confusion might have resulted. It was therefore deemed advisable to postpone the change 9tttwar& SBounb 7 of title till the return of His Royal HiRhness from Australia. Thus it was as Duke and Duchess of Corn- wall and York, and not as Prince and Princess of Wales, that the King's son and his Consort made their grand tour of Greater Britain beyond the Seas. In the Household and Staff appointed to accompany them, their Royal Highnesses had advisers Thtlaito. ^f j.jpg experience, high social (pialities, and consummate tact. They were — Captain his Serene Highness Prince Alexander of Teck, 7th Hussars, K.C.V.O. Ladies in Waiting :— Lady Mary Lygon, Lady Kathe- rine Coke, the Hon. Mrs. Derek Keppel. The Right Hon. Lord Wenlock, G.C.S.L, G.C.LE., Lord-in-Waiting and Head of the Household. Lieutenant-Colonel Sir Arthur Bigge, R.A..G.C.V.O., K.C.B., C.M.G., Private Secretary. Commander Sir Charles Cust, Bart., R.N., N.V.O., Eqiierry. The Honourable Derek Keppel, M.V.O., Equerry. The Rev. Canon Dalton, C.M.G., Domestic Chaplain. Sir John Anderson, K.C.M.G., representing the Colonial Office. Sir Donald Wallace, K.C.LE., Assistant Private Secretary. Commander B. Godfrey Faussett, R.N., A.D.C. Major J. H. Bor, Royal Marine Artillery. C.M.G., A.D.C. Ciptain Viscount Crichton, Royal Horse Guards, M.D.O., A.D.C. Lieutenant his Grace the Duke of Roxburghe, Royal Horse Guards, M.V.O., A.D.C. Lieutenant-Colonel Byron, Australian Artillery, extra A.D.C. Chevalier E. de Martino, M.V.O., Marme Artist. Dr. A. Manby. Mr. Sydney Hall, Artist. 8 tbe Quecn'0 mttj TIh' itirurary of the tour, which with one or two triflinK exceptions was strictly adhered to, may be con- veniently Riven here in tabular form — (fibraltar Malta Fort Said Suez . Aden . Colombo Singapore Melbourne Brisbane Sydney Auckland Wellington i8th St. John's 2oth March. 30th „ 1st April. 5th , I2th „ 21st „ 6th May. 20th „ 27th „ nth June. Lyttelton . 22nd June. Dunedin . 24th „ Hobart . ist July. Adelaide . 9th ,, Fremantic . igth ,. Mauritius . 4th Aupust. Durban . 12th „ Simonstown i6th „ Ascension . 28th „ St. Vincent. 4th September. Halifax . 14th ,. Quebec .19th „ .21st October. Brisbane. Fremantle, and Ascension were the ports omitted from this itinerary for reasons to be explained later, but in the cases of Brisbane and Fremantle the omission on the part of the Ophir to call there in no way interfered with the Royal programme, the necessary journeys being made by rail. A right hearty British send-off awaited the bearers of the late Queen's message of love and gratitude to her people beyond the seas. The whole nation fervently wished them God-speed. This sentiment was so manifest in many ways as to cause the keenest gratification to their Royal Highnesses. Replying to a letter from the Lord Leaving ^^ayor of London conveying the good Undon. wishes of the City, the Duke said the knowledge that he took with him the sympathy and affectionate regard of his fellow-citizens was a source of great satisfaction and comfort to them both. The King and Queen themselves travelled down to Portsmouth to say farewell. Saturday, March 16, was the (late ap|x)intf}mfa»\.\ Tha Duchcis'i Private SIttlnit Room on the "Ophlr" on the platform was nearly every member of the Royal Tamily and many distinguished public) men, including the Duke of Connaught. tiie Duchess of Fife, the Duke and Duchess of Argyll, Prince Louis of Buttenberg, the Duke and Duchess of Teck, Princ " ancis of Teck, Prince Alexander of Teck, Prince Chnstian, the Grand] Duchess of Mecklenburg-Stre]it2, the ! of Clarendon, the Earl of Pembroke, the Earl of Coventry, the Earl of Kintore, lO Vbc ^neen't VQlfb 11 the Earl .if Mount- EdKCumlw, Lord and Lndv /.mlicrut of Hackney and the Hon. MarKaret Amherst. Um\ VVil- ham Cecil, the Home Secretary, Udv Milner, and Sir Spencer Ponnonby Fane. Leavc-takinjfs were cut short by the arrival of King Edward and ^iiecn Alexandra, and the Royal train TlMlM4*t. ''^•■*^^' punctually at a (|Uiirtor-pa.<;t three. Accom|)anyin>r the Duke and Duchew in the Royal saloon, "besides their Majesties, were the Duke of ConnauKht. Princess Victoria, Prince and Princess Charles of Denmark, Prince Francis of Tcck, Prince Alexander of Teck, and Prince Louis of BattenberR— a strictly family group, representing undoubtedly the do- mestic far more than the Imjierial aspect of the parting, for the members of King Edward's family are devotedly attached to each other; and his Majesty used no conven- tional language when he told the Lords and Commons, in his speech from the Throne, of the pain so long a separ- ation from his only son would cause him. On reaching Portsmouth, after formal receptions by the Mayor and Corporation and by a distinguished gathering of naval and At Pwtomoith. '"'''*»'■>' officers, the King and Queen and other members of the party prcKeeded on board the Royal yacht Victoria and Albert, where they passed the night, while the Duke and Duchess of Corn- wall took possession of the apartments in the Ophir which were i.ow to be their floating home. There were still various ceremonies and conflicting emotions in store for the Royal circle before the Ophir disappeared over the blue waters upon her Imperial mission. The morning was devoted to presentation by the King of Victorian Orders and war medals to officers and men of different arms ; amonj,' those who received the latter being the Duke of Cornwairs aide-de-camps, \ iscount Crichton and the Duke of Roxburghe. The King and Queen afterwards went over the Ophir, and ex- pressed themselves thoroughly satisfied with the arrange- ^twar5 Boon& It V^^^^^^^W' 1 Tlw "OpMr." TiM IMm-« B^. MMN •''I. fort of the Duke PolltlMl ud Demettle. tlitical and the h'iman, in the the luncheon ments w hich had been made for and Duchess. There was a curious inin^lii. . ii: domestic, of the Imperial and Uu .• » scenes which follow, ' Riven by the King on board the Royal yacht. Prominent among tlie guests were Mr. Joseph Chamberlain, Secretary of State f the Colonies, and the Duke and Duchess of Fife, v\.. . iiad travelled down from town in the course of the morning, l^esides the other members of the Royal Family already mentioned, there were also present Lord Selburne, l'"irst Lord of the Admiralty, three ex-First Lords— the Earl of Northbrook, Earl Spencer, and Viscount Goschen : the First Sea Lord, Lord Walter Kerr, as well as Admiral Sir Michael Culme-Seymour, Admiral Sir C. F. Hotham, Lieut. -General Sir Baker Russell, Admiral- Superintendent 13 TTbe Queen's Wieb Pelham Aldrich. Rear-Admira! Fawkes, and Lord Colville of Culross, while the Orient Company was represented by the Chairman, Mr. Green, Mr. Kenneth Anderson, and Captain Tuke, the Marine Superintendent. The King proposed the toast of the day. His Majesty, who was deeply moved, asked the company to drink Th Ki r success to the trip which his son and Toart. daughter-in-law were about to make at the express wish of his late mother the Queen. In a few simple but eloquent words, he reminded them that the voyage was undertaken in honour of the federa- tion of the Australian Colonies, and in recognition of the share which all the self-governing Colonies had taken in the war. The Duke, in his reply, thanked his father for entrusting him with so important a mission. Both the Duke and Duchess, while these few heartfelt words were being spoken, were quite overcome with emotion. In this they were not alone. A few more farewells were said. The painfulness of the parting, though it took place in private, could not be concealed. Every member of the Royal Family circle betra}ed some trace of it. But steam was up, and all was in readiness for casting off. Shortly after four o'clock the signal was given, and the Ophir glided away from the jetty. The Duke and Duchess were on the fore bridge. Military and naval bands played " Rule Britannia." A round of cheers was raised by the officers and crew of the Victoria and Albert, and anon great gusts of cheering went up from dense crowds on either shore at the mouth of the harbour. The Royal yacht was under way. The King and Queen, with their daughters and other members of the Royal group, had meanwhile gone on board the yacht Alberta, the tiny vessel which a few weeks previously bore the remains of Queen Victoria across the Solent from the Isle of Wight to the mainland in one of the most solemn and impressive funeral pageants Good-bye. 9tttwar^ Soun^ «3 the world has ever seen. In this they followed a little way, sharing thus the first few miles of the voyage. Standing in a cluster on the bridge — a mere toy of a bridge compared with the Ophir's — they waved a final good-bye. The guns of Nelson's old flag- ay. gi^jp Victory and those of modern ironclads together thundered forth a Royal salute. Hands played " God Save the King." The shore was black with people both on the Gosport and on the Portsmouth side. For miles along the sea front on to Portsea and Southsea were more crowds of eagerly interested spectators. Behind were the escorting cruisers and two black lines of destroyers. One more cheer from the Ophir to the Alberta, and one more from the Alberta to the Ophir. Then, as the Alberta turned to go back, the King made the signal, " God Speed," to which the Duke replied from the Uphir " Many Thanks ; Good-bye." Such was England's send-off to the Imperial mission. The Ophir was escorted from Portsmouth to Gibraltar by two first-class cruisers detached for this duty from the Channel Squadron — the \iobe (Captain John Denison) and the Diadem (Captain Henry Leah). She proceeded down Channel in clear weather and a smooth sea. k\\ on board the Royal yacht settled down at once to the routine of a man-of-war -slightly relaxed in a good many par- ticulars — which was to be their mode of life while at sea during the next seven and a half months. The ship was officered and manned by a personnel selected from the Royal Navy, except for the engineers and the purser and his staff, who were engaged from the Orient Company. Commodore A. L. W'insloe commanded, and his officers were: — Commander Rosslyn Wemyss, Navigat- ing Commander P. Nelson-Ward ; Lieutenants W. Ruck Keene, C. M. Crichton-Maitland, R. A. Norton, the The Run down Channel. TIbe dlueen's Wiisb Hon. H. Meade, the Hon. S. M. A, J. Hay ; Sub-Lieu- tenants G. A. Wells, J. H. Bainbridge, G. Saurin, and J. B. Waterlow ; Major C. Clarke, K.M.L.I., Lieutenant G. L. Raikes, R.M.A., and Lieutenant H. H. F. Stockley, K.M.L.L ; Staff- Paymaster E. D. Hadley, Secretary W. Gask, Assistant- Paymaster G. A. Miller, Staff-Sur- geon H. S. Macnamara, Surgeon R. Hill, Engineer S. M. G. Brj'er ; Chaplain, the Rev. H. S. Wood; Band- master Wright : Purser, Mr. J. G. Gibbons. The ship's company included 125 bluejackets, 100 marines, 37 bandsmen, 20 boys, seven engineer officers, with an engine-room complement of 88, 50 stewards, nine cooks and assistant cooks, three bakers, two butchers, one laundryman and his wife, one printer, and two barbers. The band engaged for the trip was that of the Royal Chatham Marines. The first day at sea was Sunday, and so, in accord- ance with the good old custom of the Navy, the Royal party and ship's company assembled for at 8mu " Church," the service being conducted by the Chaplain, Mr. Wood, assisted by Canon Dalton. The dreaded, but, as sailors say, much maligned Bay of Biscay was in a not unamiable mood. There was a slight swell, but little wind. On the follow- ing day, Monday, however, the swell increased, and a little sea water found its way mto the dining saloon. This was a foretaste of a tolerably good "dusting" that was to be experienced a few hours later. The Burlings were > n ^> . ^L passed at midnight, and Lisbon about A Dusting In the f, t j ■ a u Bay. three on I uesday mornmg. A heavy sea was then running, and till about mid-day, when she passed Cape St. Vincent and got under the lee of the land, the Ophir rolled and pitched her way through the roughest bit of sea she was to encounter on the whole outward voyage. Gibraltar was reached early on he morning of V'ednesday the 20th. The weather tliere for five days ®utwar^ Bound J5 The "Rock" In Sight previously had been atrocious. It had rained and blown hard continuously, and a P. and O. steamer had been unable to lan'l her passen{,'t rs. It was therefore fully ex- pected that the Opiiir would be delayed by the gale, and it was a pleasant surprise when she not on'-- arrived ahead of Iil appointed time, but broufjht a spell — only a fleetinj; one, as it happened — of fine weather. The f(ale had subsided and the sun was shining pleasantly when she steamed into the harbour and anchored ii cable's len,rth from the shore, amid the booming of guns from a whole fleet of warships assem- bled thus to greet her. These included the Miijcstic, Magnificent, Jupiter, Mars, Repulse, Prince George, Resolu- tion, Hannibal, Pactolus, Andromeda, Devastation, Diana, and Hornet. Their Royal Highnesses landed at noon, leing rowed ashore in the Admiralty boat, manned by sixteen picked seamen. The Royal barge, specially built for this duty, was on board the cruiser 5^ Ceorf^e, which, with the June, had been sent on ahead to await the Ophir at Aden, and there take up the rule of escort. Sir George White, the Governor, with Lady White and a distinguished gathering of naval, military, and official personages, were waiting on the New Mole to tender an official welcome. "Oib.' 1.6 Zbc (S^ueen'd Wieb The Governor's little daughter handed the Duches". a bouquet, and after the usual presentations had been made their Royal Highnesses and their suite entered the carriages which were in attendance and drove through the streets. In the first were the Governor and Lady White, Welcome at ^" ^' ^^' J''^'^-^"''' a"^^ -'" aide-de-camp; "The Rock." '" ^^^ second the Duke and Duchess; in the third and fourth, members of the suite; and in.ti.e filth Vice-Admiral Sir Harry Kawson, with The Fleet at Qlbralur his staff. The Governor's staff furnished the escort, and the Duke's aides, Lord Crichton and the Duke of Rox- burghe, in their Guardsmen's uniforms, rode by the Royal carriage. His Royal Highness wore his admiral's uniform. The Duchess was in deep mourning. Gibraltar consists of one long straggling street, wind- ing its way under the shadow of the famous Rock. The thoroughfares are narrow and irregular. The residents, apart from the British military and official class, are mostly Spaniards, Moors, an' Vrabs. It was the purely British section of the population, naturally enough, that ©utwar& JSounO ,7 had taken the lead in decorating the town. Great-coated soldiers had Deen working for days in the rain, erecting arches, arranging trophies of flags, and hanging festoons and lamps across the route. The regiments in garrison were the Royal Berkshires, the Royal Fusiliers, th" Cameron Highlanders, and detachments of the Rovl Engmeers and Royal Artillery. Each of these had con- nbuted an arch. That of the Camerons bore the inscrip- tion Welcome to the Earl of Inverness "-the Duke's Scottish title. The Artillery arch was surmounted by cannon Al were different, and each was in some way distmctive of the regiment by which it was built When the cortege, which was heartily cheered all The Tint ^^°"^ ^^"^ ''""te, reached the Commercial Address. Exchange, it was met by the Reception . vf xr 1 ^T'"!!!.'^''- '^^^ Koyal party rJighted, and Mr. Mosley, the Chairman, on behalf of the inhabi tants, presented the following address of welcome •— "May it please your Royal Highness, we are deputed b3- the people of Gibraltar to offer you and her Royal Highness the Duchess of Cornwall and York a hearty ■velcome on the occasion of your visit to the historic City f Gibraltar. Wa have been honoured several times by the presence of His Majesty the King, by your Royal Highness during your service in the Royal' Navy and by other members of the Royal Family, and your illustrious ancestor, the Duke of Kent, held for a long term of years the important position of Governor of this City and its garrison. " It is, therefore, especially gratifying to us that we should be privileged to be the Hrst of His Majesty's Colonial subjects to welcome your Royal Highness at the outset of a voyage destined to cement that bond of union between the Mother Country and her Colonies, which is the glorious outcome of the reverence and affec- tion of her people for our late lamented and beloved Sovereign, gueen Victoria. In assuring vour Royal D i / I (/ i i8 TTbe Queen'0 MiBb The DukA'i Reply. Highness of the devoted loyahy of the people of Gib- raltar to the Crown, we respectfully beg on their behalf to wish your Royal Highness a safe and happy voyage, and to express the hope that your visit to Gibraltar on this occasion may find a place amongst the pleasant recollections of your journey." The Address was signed by Sir H. M. Jackson, the Colonial Secretary, and the principal residents of Gib- raltar, including Mr. Mosley. The Duke replied as follows : — *' Gentlemen, — On behalf of the Duchess and also for myself I desire to express the feelings of deep gratitude with which we have listened to the words of kindly welcome from the people of this ancient and Royal City. It gives me great pleasure to revisit Gibraltar, where I first landed twenty-two years ago, and of which place I have so many happy reminiscences ; nor do I forget that on several occasions the City has afforded an enthusiastic welcome to my dear father, and that the memory of my illustrious ancestor, the Duke of Kent, is especially associated with its history. We regard this hearty greeting at our first place of landing as of happy augury for that great Mission with which I have been entrusted by my father, the King, in fulfilment of the wishes of our late beloved Sovereign, whose loss the whole world mourns. It will afford me much satisfaction to inform His Majesty the King of the cordial manner in which you have received us and of the assurances of loyalty and attachment to his Throne and person which are to-day renewed by his ever-faithful subjects at Gibraltar." His Royal Highness conferred upon Mr. Mosley the Companionship of the Order of St. Michael and St. George. From the Chamber of Commerce the Duke and Duchess drove to the mess of the Royal Fusiliers, and lunched with the officers. After luncheon they returned ®utwar& 3Boun^ »9 to the Ophir. In the afternoon they af^ain landed, and, after visiting the docks and several other points of intt rest, proceeded to the new detached Mole, where they jointly laid one of the last of the great concrete block*. After the ceremony their Royal Highne.^ses again returned to the ophir. The Duke and I>uchess were entertained in the evening at a banquet given at Cioverninent House. A reception followed, after which the Duchess was pre- sented by four ladies of the town with a beautiful Spanish muntilla, the gift of the inhabitants. At a quarter-past eleven their Royal Highnesses left Government House and drove through the town to view the illuminations, returning to the Opiiir about iriidnight. On the second day of the visit to Gibraltar, a review of the Garrison troops was to have been held, but this had to be countermanded on account of a renewal of the gale, accompanied by a heavy downpour of rain. Their Royal Highnesses remained on board the Op/iir all the morning, but at one o'clock they honoured Admiral Sir Harry Rawson with their company at lunch on boird the Majestic. Sir George and Lady White, Sir Arti.ur and Lady Nicolson, Sir Henry and Lady Jackson, General and Mrs. Slade, Rear-Admiral Jennings, Lord Wenlock, Lunch with the ^""^ ^''''' '^'■'•'"'" ^^'^'^'^' '■''^'^ ^'^^ present! Admiral. Lunch was served on the port battery of the upper deck, where nine t.tbles were laid. Four quick-firing twelve-pounders were a promi- nent feature in the furniture of this improvised saloon. Their Royal Highnesses inspected the monster battleship, remaining on board till four o'clock, persistent bad weather having rendered projected visits to the famous Galleries, the Upper Rock, and Europa Point out of the question. In the evening the Governor and Lady White, and the principal naval, military, and civil authorities dined on board the Ophir, and the Royal party afterwards viewed from the deck of the Royal yacht the illumination of the fleet, combined with fireworks ashore and a huge so Ube aitteen'0 TPOtab bonfire at the Si^^nal Station. A torchlight procession and a parade of illuminated boats, which were to have formed features of the display, had been aband jned. The evening fortunately was fine, and the spectacle from the Ophir was much enjoyed by their Royal Highnesses and their guests. The ophir sailed from Gibraltar for Malta on the morning of Friday, March 22. Before leaving, the Duke sent a message to Sir George White conveying his sincere thanks for the perfect military arrangements made for his visit, and expressing regret that, owing to the inclemency of the weather, it had not been possible to see the troops on parade. Admiral Rawson received a similar compli- mentarj' letter in regard to the naval arrangements, and it was read on the quarterdeck of each ship under his com- mand. " Your splendid fleet," said the message, " was both by day, and when brilliantly illuminated at night, the object of pride and admiration to His Royal Highness." Down the Mediterranean the Ophir was escorted by H.M. first-class cruiser Andromeda (Captain F. J. Foley), and H.M. second-class cruiser Diana (Captain A. M. Far- quhar). The former was sent on ahead early in the day to endeavour to pet into touch with Malta by wireless telegraphy. The weather was fine, and as the vessels steamed along the southern Spanish coast, admirable views were ob- tained of the snow-crowned peaks and ridges of the Sierra Nevada, which showed up brightly in the sunshine. The land was lost towards evening. Algiers was passed, quite close, at eleven on the following morning, and in the afternoon the Marconi system duly delivered on board a message from Malta. The mountainous scenery of the Algerian coast was now in view. An excellent run having been made, speed was reduced to fourteen knots, to avoid arriving at Malta before programme time. Service was held as usual in the saloon on Sunday forenoon. By one o'clock on the 24th, the Ophir had passed Bizerta. She In the Medlter- ruiMui. ik^ 9tttwar& Bonn^ ai Malta. was nuw in smooth water, and the conditions of the voyage were hourly becoming; more at^reeablo. Further wireless messages were received, including the latest war news. The arrival at Malta on the morning of the 25th was th? occasion of a fresh naval demonstration. In the harbour lay the majestic Mediterranean squadron as- sembled in honour of the Heir Apparent's visit. At eight o'clock the destroyer flotilla came oat to meet the Ophir. It was in two divisions, the first consisting of the Cygnet, Foam, Griffin, Earnest, and Orwell ; the second of the Coquette, Hardy, Box.r, Bruiser, and Ardent. Steaming twenty knots, they met the Royal yacht at twenty minutes to nine, and fired a salute, which could be hjard from the shore, where great crowds of spectators had gathered. Escorted by her sprightly little satellites, the Ophir made an imposing entrance. The swift-moving destroyers performed a series of extremely pretty evolutions, circling inward and outward and darting hither and thither with audacious rapidity. Tiien the whole flotilla, ranged on either side of the Ophir, accom- panieJ h^r into the harbour. Signals of welcome had meanwhile been made by Admiral Sir John Fisher, Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean squadron, who, accompanied by Lady and the Misses Fisher, viewed the arrival from the signalling tower. To these the Duke replied by signalling, " Thanks for signals of welcome. Glad to find myself with you again." Ships and forts boomed forth a Royal salute, while the bands of all the battleships and cruisers played the National Anthem, the crews manning ship and cheer- ing lustily. As soon as the Ophir had anchored, the Governor-General, Sir Francis Grenfell, went on board, with the Chief Secretary, the Admirals and other officers, to greet their Royal Highnesses. At a quarter to twelve the Duke and Duchess landed. Her Royal Highness was presented with a beautiful 32 Tlbe 9iicen'« mub bouquet by the little dauRhtcr of Sir Gerald Strickland, the Chief Secretary, and the Royal party, having taken A MMrty W«l- ^^^'" **^^' '" '^*'""a>f«» which were waitinR, MB*. drove to the Governor's Palace. The streets were lined by troops, marines, and bluejackets, four thousand of the latter, with a score of field guns, having been landed from the fleet for this duty. A mounted force, comp led of detachments of the local police, formed the escort. The popular vielcome was hearty and spontaneous. Cheers rolled in one continuous roar all along the route. The chief event in the day's programme was a review on the Palace Square of all the forces, naval and military. Headed by the Naval Brigade, under Lord Charies Beresford, they marched past the Duke and Duchess, who, surrounded by a brilliant suite of officers, witnessed the spectacle from a gaily furnished balcony in front of the Palace. To their right and left, in the permanent balconies, were liritish residents and members of the Maltese nobility. Koofs, balconies, and windows on each side of the Square were packed with spectators. Adjoin- ing the Square stands the statue of Queen Victoria. As Boldlen and ^^^^ marched past it the troops wheeled Ballon. and. repeating the manteuvre, left the Squart. The guns were smartly run out of the Square by the bluejackets, and the colours of the Infantry were saluted. The bands played regimental marches, and the whole scene was most inspiriting. The Duke and Duchess, by the gracious manner in which they constantly acknowledged the acclamations of the people, charmed all observers. The school children, who, dressed in white, sang the National Anthem as their future King and Queen drove past, were particularly gratified by the kindly flotice bestowed on them. After luncheon, their Koyal Highnesses received in the Hall of St. Michael and St. George a number of depu- tations, who presented loyal addresses. These represented ^tttwarO Boun^ *i Loyftl A4d m i M . the Council of Government, the Maltese Bar, the Chamber of Commerce, the Meciical Profession, the University, the Chapter of Clergy, and the Maltese nobility. To each the Duke replied separately. Addressing the Council of Government, His Royal Highness said: — " It affords me sincere gratification tu receive this kind Address from the elected members of the Council of Government. In the name of the Duchess, as well as for myself, I thank you sincerely for your loyal and cordial welcome. I am very glad to visit this Island, in which I have spent many and happy days, and to have the opport.:nity of doing so with my wife, who keenly looks forward to becoming acquainted with its many historical interests. I am greatly touched by the allusions to .ny dear father, the King, and his visit to the Island. I shall not fail to communicate to Hit Majesty your sentiments of loyalty and goodwill." For each of the othjr public bodies the Duke had a pleasant and appropriate word. He congratulated the Bar upon the high reputation it enjoyed, and expressed his appreciation of the assurance that its members were second to none in their attachment to the Throne and the fl.ig of England. To the Clergy he said he was glad to think that ever since Malta became part of the Empire, they had both by precept and example inspired the popu- lation with fidelity and attachment to the Throne. The University he congratulated upcm the progress it had made since his last visit to the Island ; and the Nobility he thanked for their sentiments of loyalty and devotion. His Royal Highness concluded the proceedings by creating two Maltese gentlemen Companions of the Order _ „ of St. Michael and St. Geoi^e. Sir Gerald O.II.O.'i. Strickland read Letters Patent from the King empowering H.R.H. to confer the Orders. These were brought in on a cushion, and the Duke affixed them to the breasts of Mr. Lorenzo Gatt, A IN^r'a Ught- Superintendent of Public Work«, and Mr. Hugo Testa- ferrata, Barun of Gomerino, President of the Committee of Privileges of the Maltese Nobility. Later in the after- noon, their Royal Highnesses inspected the tapestry in the Legislative Chamber and other apartments in the Palace, and witnessed a polo match at Marsa between the ist Lancashire Fusiliers and the 5th Northumberland Fusiliers. Tuesday, the 26th, the second day of the stay at Malta, was mainly given up to sight-seeing. The sun was shining gloriously, and the harbour was a scene of great gaiety and animation when the Duke and Duchess landed shortly after eleven o'clock. Flags were flutteimg from every ship, as well as from the forts and public buildings, and crowds thronged the narrow streets and open spaces. Amid continuous rounds of cheering, their Royal Highnesses drove to the Governor's Palace. Thence they proceeded by a private way to the Public Library and the Cathedral of San Giovanni, in both of which tliey ^pent a considerable time, examining the literary treasures of the former and the artistic adornments of the latter. In tiie Cathedral they were received by Mgr. Pace, Archbishop of Malta, and the Canons, who did the honours. They then crossed over to the Arts and Crafts Exhibition, immediately opposite, which the Duke had consented to open. The Duchess accepted a bouquet from Miss Lawson, grand- daughter of Count Sant Fournier, President of the Agri- cultural Society, who read an address in which reference was made to previous Royal visits. The Duke, in reply, expressed the pleasure it afforded himself and the Duchess to inspect some of the industrial products of Malta and G020, and added — " The manufacture of Gozo lace is ot special interest to my wife. We are gratified to hear that the demand for Malta and Gozo lace has recently increased, and trust that the efforts of your Society towards the introduction L ^gggggggmm 9tttwar& Xonit^ *5 I uf ' lie iiidustrics evcr\ sudcsit. 1 : t!ie E.\hil>itiun e to watch the uther exhibits, as a gift frum lajor- General . published in of new manufactures and the dcvtiopnif of these islands will be crowned witl have great pleasure in now declari' open." Their Koyal Highnesses tarried t lare-makers at work, and ins()ected, i . -.^ - . a silver G020 boat ■ a A Sift H Lam. ., \ c \i the people of Mucii Haden Powell, and an interesting oK v. commemoration of the visit paid by Uiv. iJukc of York to the Island in 1815. Before they left, the Countesii Sant Fournier, in the name of the Ladies' Committee, asked the Duchess to accept a Maltese flounce of Ualla lac, enclosed in a white plush box bearing on a silver plate the words, " A Souvenir of Malta." The aftcmoon was devoted to visiting the Auberge de Castile and the Citta Vecchia, the ancient capital. The Malta festivities concluded on Wednesday, the 27th, with a series of interesting torpedo experiments and ^^ a great water carnival, the latter on a scale p,2uo«. which only the " handy man " could have attempted. In the morning the Duke and Duchess were pulled across the great harbour to Bighi, and proceedcu thence to Corradino Hill, where an exhi- bition of physical and field-gun drill was given by the Marine Artillery and Infantry. The experiments with the Hrennan torpedo which followed took place at the mouth of the harbour. A toriHjdo which the Duchess herself directed was watched with especial interest, and there was a hearty round of applause wlien it was seen to hit the mark, which was a long way off outside the harbour. Their Royal Highnesses were entertained at lunch on board the Ramillies by Rear-Admiral Lord Charles Beres- ford. The Duchess and members of the suite afterwards visited the St. Elmo Chapel, where the Knights of St. John, foreseeing death while defending the fort against 36 Vbe Queen's Tmteb the Turks in the great siege, took the last sacrament ; and the adjoining Chapel of Bones, so called because the walls are decorated with the dismembered skeletons of those who fell in the siege— collected here when the old ceme- tery was closed, and arranged in all sorts of fantastic floral and other designs. Her Royal Highness also paid a visit to the Hospital of the Knights of St. John, and was shown over the wards by Surgeon-Genera! O'Farrell. The Royal party then drove to the Governor's residence at San Antonio, and took tea there. To commemorate the cxrca- sion the Duchess planted a tree in the garden. The water carnival was a very brilliant and novel spectacle. It represented a vast amount of ingenious A Water ^^^our on the part of the bluejackets, car- CwniTal. penters, torpedo lieutenants, and other officers and men of the squadron. The idea, which was most successfulfy carried out, was to set afloat in the harbour illuminated models of various beasts, birds, and reptiles. Creditably faithful representations of these were constructed upon rafts. They were of gigantic proportions, and were illuminated by electricity from within, the canvas with which the framework was covered lending itself readily to this scheme. The Canopus con- tributed a huge elephant, with " practicable " trunk and tail, the Ccesar a kangaroo, the Empress a crocodile, the Gladiator a dragon, the Royal Oak a camel, the Victorious a dodo, while the Illustrious furnished a Noak's Ark. The illuminations, eff'ectivcly diversified by the ungainly gam- bols of these floating monsters, were much enjoyed by the Royal party from the quarterdeck of the flagship Renown, in which Vice-Admiral Fisher gave a farewell dinner! When the Duke and Duchess returned to the Ophir, 500 rockets were sent up from Corrudino Heights, and till a late hour the harbour was ablate with the myriads of lights outlining the various ships, the searchlif,'hts of the torpedo destroyers, the fireworks ashore, and other illuminations. The Ophir resumed her voyage at midnight. When (Ptttwarb Sonn^ a? Maito to Port Said. she slipped her cable a final salvo of a thousand rockets was fired, the crews of all the men-o'-war manned and cheered ship, bands played the National Anthem, the guns thundered a parting salute, while troops lining the ramparts cheered and cheered again. That their Royal _ , Highnesses were highly gratified by the Tbulu. cordiality of their reception in Malta was evident from a letter which the Governor, Sir Francis Grenfell, received from Sir Arthur Bigge on the last day of the visit, conveying the sincere thanks of the Duke and Duchess for the demonstrations of loyalty and enthusiasm with which they had been welcomed in the historic island and its beautiful capital. Little in the way of incident occurred during the run from Malta to Port Said. The weather was rather dull and muggy, with occasional intervals of sunshine. The sea, on the whole, was smooth. By means of the Marconi sys- tem of wireless telegraphy, frequent communication was established with the shore. The cruiser Andromeda, sent ahead for the purpose, was the transmitting medium, pass- ing on and receiving from the Vindictive and Theseus the various messages. In this way the Duke was enabled to send a greeting to his cousin Prince George of Greece, High Commissioner in Crete, while the Ophir was passing that island at a distance of one hundred miles. His Royal Highness expressed regret that time did not admit of his paying Prince George a visit. In the middle of the night the following reply was Bashed across the waste of waters — " George of Greece wishes a pleasant and successful voyage to the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall." On the Saturday evening — which Jack afloat always devotes to music and dancing — the sailors on board the Opiiir gave a very successful concert, which their Royal Highnesses and all the members of the suite attended. Port Said was reached at four o'clock on the after- noon of Saturday, March jo. Official visits were paid 38 TCbe O^ueen's mtsb on board by Lord Cromer, the British Diplomatic Agent ; OnBfyptlu ^^"^""^^ Talbot, commanding the British BolL troops in Egypt; General Lane, com- manding the British garrison at Alexan- dria ; and Mr. Cameron, the British Consul. A little later Prince Mohamed Ali proceeded on board and welcomed the Royal visitors to Egypt in the name of his bro- ther the Khedive. The Duke subsequently went ashore and returned the Prince's call. He was received on the landing-stage by an Egyptian guard of honour. While His Royal Highness was paying this visit the Duchess took tea at the residence of the Director-General of the Suez Canal. On the return of the Duke their Royal Highnesses together visited the British Hospital founded by Lady Strangford. In the evening Prince Mohamed Ah, Lord Cromer, Mr. Cameron, Captain Grenfell, Admiral Blomfield, and Mr. Austin Lee had the honour of dining as the guests of their Royal Highnesses on board the 0V«>. The weather was dull and rainy all day. Having coaled over night, the Ophir left Port Said and began her passage through the Suez Canal on 4 In tlw Snei Canal. Children of t: e Desert 9utwar^ Soun^ 29 Sunday, March 31. She was accompanied by the , .. _ Titan, the Canal Company's most powerful Casal. *"P' '" ^^^^ •'* accidents. Unexpected delay was encountered, two obstructions ahead being reported. The Britannic, which was bring- ing home the contingent of troops sent to Australia for the Federation festivities, had gone aground in Lake Timsah, and at a point between the Bitter Lakes and Suez a big dredger had dropped her -uckets into the waterway. Several members of the suite went out in a launch anu boarded the Britannic, which, though aground, did not block the channel. The Opitir was, therefore, able to glide slowly past. As she did so she was heartily cheered by all the crew and passengers of the stranded liner. Sir Donald Wallace and other members of the suite who had been chatting with the returning soldiers brought back to the Duke and Duchess an excellent account of the welcome which had been extended to the visiting troops everywhere in Australasia. " They did us awfully well " was the universal verdict. " A littie too well sometimes," an officer significantly added. This account of Australian and New Zealand hospitality, I may here interpolate, was fully verified in the subse- quent experience of all who took part in the Imperial tour. To give the di%ers time to fish up the dredger's lost buckets, the Ophir anchored for the night in the Bitter Lakes. But for this little contretemps, the R ~iyal yacht would have made a record passage through the Canal. Some consolation vvasj derived from the assurance that such accidents are not likely to recur in the future, since the Company had decided to adopt a newly- invented dredger of a more efficient kind, a suction pump being emplojed instead of buckets to raise the silt. Before leaving Lake Timsah, tlje Royal party saw the results of the *irst experiment with this machine, in the shape of a smaJ island which it had thrown up in 30 tCbe Queen's MiBb 150 houra. Early the following morning it was reported that the obstruction had been removed, and the Ophir proceeded on her way. She was taken in tow by the tug Titan, and arrived at uez shortly after ten, only stopping there for an hou' however, to unship a tem- porary rudder which h^d been rigged as an extra precaution. While lying off Suez the Ophir exchanged greetings with the homeward-bound P. and O. steamer India, which had Lady Curzon, wife of the Viceroy of India, on board. The voyage down the Gulf of Suez was extremely agreeable. The heat was tempered by a pleasant breeze. Hot Weather. ^°"^'d^''*b'e amusement was derived from a discussion as to whether a mountain which could just be descried in the far distance was or was not Mount Sinai. As a matter of fact, it was not ; but the exercise in Bible geography to which the con- troversy gave rise was none the less edifying and profit- able. In the evening there was a slight swell from the northward, and scuttles had to be closed. At midnight the island of Shadwan was passed, and the night being delightfully warm, some were still on deck to watch its red and white revolving light. Tuesday was distinctly hot. There was no land in sight, and passing ships were few and far between. Next day, Wednesday, the 3rd, the temperature began to " stoke up," as the sailors say, in earnest. That, of course, was to be expected at this season of the year in the Red Sea. Just before lunch the little Cockatrice (gunboat), which had been sent out from Suakin with despatches, came alongside and signalled, among other items of news, that a British force had occupied Vryheid and captured three guns. Land was sighted about sundown. The night was calm and clear, with moonlight. On the Thursday morning the ophir passed Jebel Teir, and at dawn on the 5th, Good Friday, she was within sight of Aden. CHAPTER II ADEN, CEYLON, AND SINGAPORE FLYING, as usual when entering port, the Royal Standard, the White Ensign, the Union Jack, and the flag of the Master of the Trinity House, the Royal yacht sieamed into Aden harbour at half-past seven Ad«ii. ''*'"■ *^'^" '^'""'^'^'■s J""" (Captain Routh) and St. Gcorj^e (Captain Bush), which had arrived here somi days previously to take up the duty of H.M.5. "Jjno" In a head-sea escorting the Ophir to the C(;ionies, fired a sdute of thirty- one guns— the customary Royal s.ilute in Indian^waters. Passing to starboard of the cruisers, which were lying about a mile and a half out. the Ophir anchored close inshore, a few cable-lengths from the old lightship which, as a British frigate, took part in the capture of Aden in iSjg, if 3* XTbe Queen's MlBb The cruisers were dressed, as were also the guardship Racoon, the P. and O. liner Egypt, homeward bound, and «ie Eastern Telegraph Companys steamship EUctra. The Ophtr's anchor was no sooner down than swarms of pamters were over her sides removing from her white enamelled hull all traces of the voyage, an operation H.M.5. "St. Qeorge which was with equal promptitude repeated at each ensuing port of call. Good Friday was not forgotten on board the Royal yacht. There were hot cross buns for breakfast, and service was conducted in the morning by the chaplain, assisted by Canon Dalton. In the course of the fore- noon the Duke received the Sultan Abdali Lahedj and the Sheikh Fadi, each accompanied by his son. They brought gifts of native work for their Royal Highnesses. a^en 33 In return they received the portraits of the Duke and Duchess framed in silver. Prior to the official landing, a most interesting little ceremony took place in the drawing-room of the Ophir. This was the presentation of South African war medals to three midshipmen and seventeen men of the Jtim and St. George who had seen service with the forces in the field. The midshipmen were Messrs. Chichester, Terry, and Walker. Mr. Chichester, who is the eldest son of Sir Edward Chichester, had been through the siege of Ladysmith as a member of the naval contingent sent up • by H.M.S. Powerful. Aden was certainly the most unattractive spot in the Royal itinerary. Nothing could be more desolate or Th« Bimbakad ""'"V'*'"K than this sun-baked peninsula Penlunla. °' barren volcanic rocks. Still, all that loyalty and public spirit could achieve had been done to render the visit agreeable. The Prince of Wales's Bunder, so-called because it was here that the King landed when on his way to India, had been con- verted by means of palms, sheaves of millet, and flags into a picturesque reception pavilion, enclosed by a decorative hedge of palm leaves and corn. All this foliage had been brought from a place in the interior twenty miles away, and, though already fading and drooping in the scorching sun, afforded a welcome relief to the eye against the background of burning sand and jagged rocks, destitute of verdure, and dry as a cinder. The adjoining Jopp Promenade had been similarly adorned with temporary shrubs and plants, but these, too, were fast withering in the torrid heat. From masts which lined the route multicoloured strips of bunting were suspended, while the houses of the Resident, General Molyneux, and the Assistant Resident, Major Abud, the offices of the Eastern Teh -t^iaph and Peninsular and Oriental Companies, and other prominent buildings, were decked with flags, in- scriptions of welcome, and lamps ready for illumination. c 34 TTbe 4ttteen'0 WHtb At the entrance to Prince of Wales's Clrescent, where the hotels and principal shops are situated, was a handsome triumphal arch, covered with palms and corn, and sur- mounted by the words "Aden Welcomes the Royal Visitors." Among other noteworthy mottoes were " God Bless our Future Sovereigns," "God Speed You," and " Cead Mille Failthe." Drawn up in the roadway facing the pavilion was a guard of honour of the West Kent m rl ■ m ^^'f^- wLw^fll f f « ' '-'J ^ mm 1 ^^s Aden. Arch, Prince of Walea's CrMcent Regiment, in white uniforms and helmets, while beyond, on the rocks rising sheer from the road, was clustered a motley crowd of half-naked Arabs, Somali, Turks, Afghans, and Jews, some crouching in holes and crevices, others clinging to the face of the rock, exposed to the roasting sun. In striking contrast to these, standing on the summit of the rock, was a row of British soldiers in khaki. a^en 33 The Duke and Duchess landed amid the boom- and the strains of the National Anthem played by the band. Passing down a crimson gangway, they took up a posi- tion in the centre of the pavilion. On one side was a brilliant gathering of naval and military officers, with the Resident, Assis- tant Resident, and other British officials ; on the other were grouped all the promi- nent British and Parsee inhabitants, with their wives and daughters. The Sultan Abdali Lahedj and the Sheikh Fadi were also present, wearing gorgeous cos tumes. When the cheering ceased, Mr. Hormusjee Cowasjee D=nshaw, head of the leading firm of Parsee merchants, stepped forward and read an address of welcome, which he afterwards presented to the Duke in a massive silver casket. There was racial and personal as well as political significance in the presentation of this address at the " Gibraltar of India " by the son of the Parsee gentleman who tendered a similar loyal greeting to the King on the occasion of His Majesty s visit as Prince of Wales in 1875, for it was Mr. Dinshaw's father who performed that pleasing duty. Thus son now welcomed son a quarter of a century later. In the address, the inhabitants hailed with joy the arrival of the Heir Apparent and his c 2 A*Mi. TiM Pmrtm Dapatattoa (Mr. DiMkaw m tiM aatrMM richt) 'Jl M |-. s S6 Vbe 4lneen'0 WiiBb Consort at this, the nearest port in the Indian Empire, and the first acquired in the reign of the late Queen- Empress. They congratul^iced " His Majesty the King- Emperor of India " on his accession to the throne of " the mightiest Empire of the world," and they assured the Duke that should he find a similar opportunity to visit India he would receive a heartfelt welcome from its teeming millions. Tk* Mun CwkM The Duke, who wore a white naval uniform, with the Star of India, replying to the Address, said — " I desire to thank you for the expression of wel- come and good wishes contained in the address which you have presented on behalf of the community of Aden. I assure you of my gratitude for your s\ mpa- thetic allusion to the loss of our late beloved Sovereign and your declaration of loyalty to my dear father, the King-Emperor, and your kindly greeting to the Duchess, who I am glad to think is with me on this occasion. I heartily share your hope that our % isit to Australia and the Colonies may strengthen the bonds which link to- gether the Mother Country and His Majesty's Dominions beyond the seas. I regret that the time does not admit Vbtn 37 Aden. Vitiate Scene near the Tanks of our now visiting India, but we stiall always look for- ward to the possibility of carrying out that project in the future." These words were greeted with ringing cheers. Mrs. Molyneux, wife of the Resident, then presented 58 tCbc Queen's xnisb r' the Duchess with a white ostrich-feather boa, subscribed am tmm Ik* ^*^' ^^ '^^ ladies of Aden, asking her gra- l^,lm ciously to receive it as a memento of the visit. Her Kuyal Highness, who wore an ivory-white dress, accepted the gift, expressing her ad- miration and smilingly remarking : " It's too hot to wear it to-day." A little boy. the son of Captain Pilleau, in a sailor suit, handed the Duchess a basket of flowers. An inspection of the guard of honour occupied the next few moments. Then their Royal Highnesses entered a carriage which had been brought .xpressly from Bom- bay by Mr. Dmshaw, at his own expense, for their use on this occasion, and followed by all the official per- sonages in other vehicles, drove to the famoo^^ Tanks, which lie .ibout five milis inland from the port. The route was lined with troops, consisting of three batteries of Royal (iarri- son Artillery, the Royal West Kent 1 egi- ment, the I'ifth Bombay Liirht Infantry, i company of •>;ippers and miners, and the Viien troop of Cavalry, with a f,'iin. At the Tanks was a gnanl of hon- our t)f native infantry. Thro ugh- out tlie drive, which was full Aden. A 5trMt Wrantic »f iuereSt, affording as it did many curious Rlimpses of nativ • hk- MvatollM ^""^ primitive duellinKs, tlieir Kcyal Mij,'h iTMkt. "C"**' were heartily ^''t't'ted by all seciion of the population. They passed many . aul-carts conveying water— not drtwn from the Tanks, but supplied by an elaliorate and exjiensive system o( dis- Adtn. Viaw from the Famaas Taaka tillatioii— and Somali shtpherds with flf^ks of sheep and goats. The Duke and Duchess spent some time examin- ing the Tanks, which are of unfathomable antiquity, and, till modern science provided a surer alternative, were thf .>nly resource of the people in this waterless land. The\ have a capacity of many millions of gallons, but were now kOMI 40 TTbe aitteen'0 Mtob 1 quite empty, there having been no rain to speak of in Aden for seven years. Upon returning to the landing- stage to re-embark, the Duke and Duchess were pre- sented by Mrs. Dinshaw with two bouquets procured from Bombay at a cost of loo rupees apiece. After sun- set, the town and all the ships in the harbour were illu- minated. A state dinner was given in the Ophir. Among those who had the honour of dining on board were the Resident and Mrs. Molyneux, the Assistant Resident and Mrs. Abud, Colonels Nicholetts, Wilkins, Firth, Monk, and Brownlow; Majors Price and Allen, Mr. Maxwell, the local superintendent of the Eastern Telegraph Company, the captains of the warships, Captain O'Dowda, of the West Kent Regiment, and Mr. Baglehok agent of tiie Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Company. A recep- tion which followed was attended by all the officers of the escorting cruisers, who were presented by their respec- tive captains. We sailed again at midnight. A week was occupied by the voyage from Aden to Colombo, a run of 2,130 miles, which was made in per- The Yoyatfe to ^^^^ weather. At six o'clock on the morn- Ceylon. '"& of Friday, April 12th, the Ophir reached Ceylon, " the Paradise of Palms, Pearls, and Perfumes." The six days at sea had been uneventful. The ocean nearly all the time was as smooth as glass. The temperature ranged from 80 to 86 degrees, and the heat would have been oppressive but for an occasional breeze and the grateful shade of awnings. We were all in whites, moreover, and most of those who could slept on deck. The Ophir steamed at fourteen and a half knots, the St. George following six cables behind on the starboard quarter, and the Juno at a similar distance on the p">rt quarter. The ships thus formed an equilateral triangle, the ophir being at the apex. Several homeward-bound steamers were passed, including the Orient liner Orient. All dipped their flags, while some dressed ship and ex- changed signals The conversation with the Orient may Colombo 4» be taken as an example of the communications held with the other vessels : — Ophir : " Report me all well." Orient: " Wish you pleasant voyage." Ophir: "Thanks." One steamer which passed in the middle of the night was brilliantly illuminated with blue lights in honour of the occasion. But no ships we passed or saw in all our journeyings were ever so magnificently illuminated as the Ophir herself. Always after dark she was a blaxe of light from stem to stern, and her dazzling progress through the black-blue expanse must have been a source of wonder- ment to many a sleepy mariner in the middle watch. Easter Sunday was duly observed in all three ships. The following day, Monday the 8th, was the birthday of King Christian, and at dinner the Duke of Cornwall and York proposed His Majesty's health, calling upon the company assembled in the Royal saloon to drink the toast of " My dear grandfather the King of Denmark." On the Wed- nesday evening a musical entertainment was given by officers and men. Day was breaking on the morning of the 1 2th, when the Ophir and her attendant cruisers steamed into Colombo Harbour. A royal salute was fired by H.M.S. Highflyer and by the forts. At ten o'clock, the Governor, Sir Joseph West Kidgeway, went on board the Ophir to welcome the Royal visitors. Colombo is at all times a delightful port of call, espe- cially for the outward-bound — after Aden. She had, of Colombo en fSte ^°^^^^' P"^ °" ^^^ «''^'^ ^^''''^ ^^^ the Duke ■ and Duchess. A higlily decorative Recep- tion Pavilion had been erected on the jetty. Workmen were employed in completing its adornment all through the night preceding our arrival. Tons of fern, stag moss palm leaves, and other greenery, in combination with a great profusion of gaudy bunting, were used to produce some really charming effects. The Pandal, or pavilion, was upholstered with red-and-white striped rloth, the roof 43 Zbe (Slnecn'B Mjsb being covered in with ferns and supported by green trellis- work laden with trophies of trooical fruits and flowers From the Pandal to the Fort Railway Station the route had been decorated by the Headmen of the Western Pro- vince. It was spanned by three triumphal arches, and Uned with Venetian masts, from which festoons of palm leaves were suspended. The native traders had iimilarly decorated Main Street. Cocoanut palm leaves and bam- Coloffibo. The Pandal boo everywhere entered largelj- into the scheme. It was at the Railway Station, however, that the most character- istically Oriental ornamentations were to be found. Two immense elephants' tusks flanked the entrance, which was adorned with frescoes portraying scenes from Buddhist mythology and with native masks. "God Bless our future King and Queen " was the greeting. The streets presented an aspect of extraordinary animation and brilliance-the natives, in resplendent cos- Colombo 43 The Recaption. tumes, many with flashing jewels and shining ornaments, forming, with the lavish decorations, a blaze of colour in the garish sunlight. The {jtat was scorching, and many of the Sin J':se, as well as Europeans, carried umbteiia>>. Conspicu.;'s among the former were numbers of Buddhist priest, rued with shield-shaped sunshades of dried palm le^\es. By noon every approach to the Pandal was paciud Mth dense masses of people, kept in line by poller, a •(' military, while the balconies of the hotels and the m.^ds erected for the occasion were filled with spectators. Through the throng a constant stream of privile^.d ticket-holders made their way ... carriages and rickshas, and some time before the hour fixed for the landing of llie Royal partj , the Reception Pavilion was well filled with leading repre- sentatives of the British and native comiuunity, including the heads of *he Government departments, some in frock coats, some .n evening dress, and v.irious prominent Sinhalese Members of the Legislative Council, the Chamber of Commerce, and other public bodies. The ladies, for the most part, were dressed either in white or in black and white. To the right of the entrance was posted a contingent of Lascoreens, armed with spears, as a bodyguard, their bright red and yellow tunics and po ted red hats with white cockades forming a glaring splash of colour. Guards of honour were furnished by the 9th Madras Infantry, the Ceylon Planters* Rifle Corps, and the Ceylon Volunteers. The bodjguard consisted of a detachment of the D.C.L.I. The troops lining the streets and the Volunteers were in khaki, and the body- guard and band in white uniforms. At twenty minutes to one the Governor, who had returned fro..i th<: Royal yacht, drove up, accompanied by Thepictur- ''"^ suite, in a fuur-horse carriage with esqce Orient. I "dian outriders. Shortly afterwards came the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Co- lombo, with his coadjutor, both conspicuous in their 44 TCbe Queen's Mi0b «■ Colombo 43 crimson robes. Hut all eyes remained fixed on the covered passage connectinj,' the pavilion with the jctt\, where the Duke and Duchess were to land. Soon after one the booming of men-o'-war's guns announced that the Royal party had left the Opitir and that the Royal barge was proceeding down the harbour, gay with flag-dressed warships and merchant vessels. The excitement among the crowds of natives found vent loud and incessant chattering. .\ few^ minutes later the band of the Glouces- tershire Regiment heralded the approach of their Royal Highnesses, who, on entering the pavilion, were at once escorted to the dais, on which two crimson chairs of state had been placed. Behind these were native boys waving palm-leaf fans, while overhead swung crimson punkahs. On either side were pillars built of pine-apples, cocoa nuts, palmyra nuts, and other tropical fruits. The Duke wore a white naval uniform with the Star of India on his breast, and a crape band on his left arm ; while the Duchess was attired in a pearl-grey dress and carried a bouquet. The Governor, who w.- . in morning dress, stood between iheir Royal Highnesses, having the Duke on his left and the Duchess on his right, with his suite behind. The mise-en-sccm being now complete, the presentation of addresses, three in number, began. The Hrst, from the Legislative Council, which spoke as representing the people of every race within the Island, and was read by Major-General F. T. Hobson, commanding the I-orces, referred to the previous visit of the Duke in 1882, and to that of the King in 1875, expressing the earnest hope that in view of the increased facilities for travel with which the twentieth century promised to annihilate the obstacles of time and space, the inhabitants might soon again enjoy an opportunity to welcome His Majesty, accompanied by Queen Alexandra, " whose name is enshrined in the heart of every British subject." The Duke in reply said: "I sincerely thank you, the members of the Legislative Council and representatives of I, < , I i\ 46 Ube aineen'9 Misb the people of Ceylon, for having renewed to-day that loyal and hearty welcome accorded to me nineteen years IddvMM *^*^' ^"*^ ^""^ extending your generous ud IpcaebM. greeting to the Duchess. We rejoice with you that during our voyage to Australia it is possible to visit your beautiful island. We look forward with pleasure to some personal acquaintance with its people— varied in race but united in loyalty— to the charm of its lovely scenery, and to the interest of its relics of ancient days. I thank you for the assurances of your sympathy in the joys and sorrows experienced by my family in the past. I know how our late beloved Sovereign deeply appreciated your expressions and outward proofs of such sentiments, and in more recent times Her Majesty realised with admiration and gratitude that spirit of patriotism and self-sacrifice which gave the flower of your manhood to defend the Empire's cause in South Africa. It is this sympathy, this readiness to share in the common burden, which forges the links in the chain which it is hoped may ever unite the countries of His Majesty's Dominions. It will be a pleasure to me to communicate to the King and Queen the loving and respectful homage of His loyal subjects in Ceylon so feelingly expressed in the words of your Address." Next came the address of the Municipal Council, in re- plying to which His Royal Highness referred to the rapid expansion of the city, and said the fact that h^ father during his visit to Ceylon in 1875 laid the foundation of the great breakwater, which had so largely contributed to the growth and prosperity of Colombo, gave him a special interest in its welfare. The Chamber of Commerce, who presented the third address, the Duke congratulated on the general com- mercial prosperity of the Island, adding : — " I'avoured in its climate and fertility of soil, happy in the enterprise and industry of its Plantiers, the producing powers of Ceylon have steadily increased, until to-day I OOBUIMPM ABi CorapttltiOB. Colomi>o 47 her trade and shipping re more than double what they were at the time of my last visit here in 1882. Mean- while the Harbour Works, inaugurated by my father in 1875, have been vigorously pushed forward, and railway and other land communications extended. Yet, eminently satisfac- tory as is such a condition of affairs, never, perhaps, was there greater scope for the work o*" those highly-responsible bodies to which you belong. We live in an age of com- petition. The struggle between nations is one, not of arms, but of trade, and it is to the Chambers of Commerce — the eyes and ears of our national commercial system — that we turn for help and guidance. They it is who can collect and promptly distribute information, stimulate the home manufacturer towards meeting the wants of the consumer, watch over and protect their local interests, and bring to the solution of the vast and complex problems of international trade their knowledge, experience, and counsel. I am confident that, realising your great powers, you will ever exert them to further the well-being, not only of the community you represent, but of the Empire at large." The Governor introduced Dr. Melizan, the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Colombo, and the Right Rev. Dr. Courdert, Coadjutor Bishop. All the Consuls of Foreign Powers were br ught up in turn by Mr. Ponsonby, the Governor's Private Secretary— Mr. E. Labussiere (France), Mr. W^ N. de Schneider (Russia), Mr. W. Frciulenberg (Germany), Mr. E. Enchelmeyer (Italy), Mr. H. A. Wen- nink (Netherlands), Mr. V. von Ro'ttauscher (Austria- Hungary), Mr. A. J. Sawer (Denmark), Mr. C. E. H. Symons (Japan), Mr. S. D. Young (Spain), Mr. Stanley Bois (Sweden and Norway), Mr. A. Forsvth (Spain and Portugal), Mr. H. L. M. Abdul Madjid Effendi (Turkey), and Mr. M. I. Mohamed Alic (Persia)— and presented in due form. America was not represented. These proceedings did not last more than half-an-hour. is 48 Zbc Queen'0 mteb They had no sooner conrinHo^ *u the station, where the Roy-f ^^^^^^^ " ''"*•""" ""'^^ fo' the party to Kandy. m d 'nn ''"'''"^ ''^ ^""^"^V pageant was fleetine bnl it ''f ''^' '''"''t and the and dashin, cav'Jc'ade ^i;:^ ""'•''"^'>; P-^»-n„e ffa^e of the swarthy crowds T K 1 f^'""'^' ^•''P^-ctant patiently, as Orientals S for k" "^ ^^"" ^*''^"^'"R "o In the first carriage werehcCov^r' '"n'?'^ '"■"'''"« ^""• of Teck. the ^faha ^fudali\nr rr^ ; ^i:'"'^^' '^''^-^'^^der next contained their RoalH^h '^''^"'" ^^'>«'^- The Lord Wenlock. Then c^me fhe T"' "'^'^ "'^"'" ^"^^ suite. The cheering "s the nr "" '''"''''''' ''^'^ the ''earty and continuous ^"''^''''"" "^^^P* ^'^ng. was -u?i..-;;,thet.E.,-T:t^^ES Colombo. The Andent KInw •"<• Queen* of Kandy 9 Colombo 49 swarms upon swarms of black, brown, yellow, and chocolate-coloured subjects of His Majesty in thuir sparse but gaudy and infinitely varied costumes. Drawn up on the station platform, which was carjH.'ted with Indian rugs and overhuug with native open-work ban- nerets, were two of the most remarkable groups their Koyal Highnesses had ever set eyes on, or were destined to see in all their travels round the globe. These repre- sented respectively the Ancient Kings and Queens of Kandy and the Devil Dancers. Hoth would have created a sensation in the wildest masquerade anywhere outside their own particular milieu, where, of course, their weird manifestations are more or less familiar. The first were dressed in parti-coloured silver-embroidered garments their faces being painted and powdered in the most hideous manner. Judging from their mimic representa- tives on this occasion, the ancient kings and queens of Kandy were a fearsomely grotesque and by no means amiable-looking hierarchy. The Devil Dancers, whose special mission in life is to perform uncannv rites and awful incantations over the sick and dying 'when sum- moned for the purpose by the superstitious natives, were if possibks uglier still. Their faces, and, indeed, their entire heads were hidden by huge and lugubriously ex- pressionless masks which might have been borrowed from the Demon's Cavern of a Drury Lane pantomime, both of these groups were inspected by the Duke and Duchess before they entered the train, and their Ruval Highnesses were evidently vastly amused by this novel and outlandish form of greeting. As the illustrious visitors walked up the platform, two girls. Miss lidith Attaputta, the Stationmaster's daughter, and Miss Ella Gunawardane his sister-in-law, sprinkled before them petals of roses and burnt paddy, the poetic significance of the former beinj,' obvious, while to tread upon the latter is supposed to be of good augury. Miss Pearce, sister of the General Manager at the same time presented the Duchess with a bouquet. I m "— M f trbe aiiieen'0 VBtfb J > t ! CalowtQ. TiM D««H Pmh iw Shrill shouts hailed the Royal train as it steamed out of the station, and followed it for more than a mile, the railway being lined on either side by a OfftoKaady. iong.(jrawn-out crowd of dusky half-naked humanity. Detonators had been placed on the rails, and as these exploded oi;e by one, the high-pitched screams of de- light redoubled. 1 he train was under the personal charge of Mr. VV. T. Pearce, the General Manager, and Mr. A. G. Perman, Traffic Superintendent, while the engine, which had been christened " Duke of Cornwall," was under the control of Mr. Fellowes Lukis, Acting Locomotive En- gineer, who, having just come off parade as a volunteer, mounted the engine in khaki uniform, and there was no prouder or busier man that day than Guard MacMath, a burly Scot from Kirkcudbright. The saloon in which their Royal Highnesses travelled was the same that the King had used a generation earlier, now enlarged and mm luindV 51 sumptuously redecorated. It was coolly upholstered in pale blue; an electric fan and open windows secured grateful ventilation. After a long spell of monotonous blue sea mirroring a merciless melting sun, this short inland journey was pecu- A IMIAttel ''"'^ pleasant and full of new interest. We iwnauf, plunged at once into a region marvellously rich in palms, mangoes, bamboos, tree-ferns, and every variety of tropical verdure. Recc m heavy rains had freshened all the foliage, and the eye was regaled at every turn by a delightful landscape. Speeding swiftly up country, we saw abundant evidence of the Colony's agri- cultural prosperity, to which the Duke had referred at Colombo, in the extensive, well-irrigated, and flourishing tea plantations which form the great staple industry. At successive railway stations through which the train passed without stopping, and at numerous points along the line, were clusters of native spectators, many of whom, men, women, and children alike, in their eagerness to catch a glimpse of the Royal travellers, were precariously perched in the branches of the mango trees. Lunch was served in the train soon after we started. Their Royal Highnesses were waited upon by the Gover- nor's personal attendants in their quaint liveries of blue, white, crimson, and gold, with tortoise-shell combs stuck in their sleek, black, elaborately-dressed hair, the whole uniform being a survival of the former Dutch regime. While still at table, the Duke and Duchess, from the comfortable shelter of their saloon, witnessed a tropical downpour, which, though of short duration, served to render the air somewhat less sultry. Polgahawela, nearly mid-way to Kandy, was reached at half-past three. Here was another great native gather- As Uon '"^' '" *^^ centre of which, on the platform, Oaakct. appeared a deputation of Kandyan Chiefs from the North -West Province, waiting to present a loyal address, accompanied by a richly carved D 2 5* tCbc Olneen'f mw> ivor>- casket studded with jewelis. The programme ad- mitted of a stuppuge of only live minutes. The ceremony, therefore, was necessarily brief, but it was none the less interesting. The Duke and Duchess, with the members uf their suite, alighted and took their places upon a pretty t«inix>rary dais, whereupon the Hon. Mr. Hulugalu stepped lurward and read the address, which was a mrxiel of brevity, and entirely to the point. In two sentences it conveyed on )>ehalf of the Chiefs, Presidents, and Head- men of the North -Western Province a most loyal and hearty welcome, and renewed the assurance, made to the King six-and-twenty years ago, of continued loyalty to tlia Throne and devotion tu the Koyal Family. The Duke, in reply, said : " I am glad to have this opportunity of meeting the Kandyan Chiefs of the North- western Province of Ceylon, and desire, on behalf of the Duchess an'l myself, to thank you sincerely for the hearty v\elconi« winch you offer us. The ability and public spirit witli which you exercise the influence attaching to your hereditary position, and discharge the important duties and responsiI>ilitie« devolving upon you, are well known, and I am conAdent that in the future, as in the past. His Majesty may rely on you loyally to assist and co-operate with his Government in Ceylon .>i furthering every mea- sure calculated to promote the well-being of the inhabit- ants of the Province. I shall h.; ruich pleasure in conveying to His Majesty the -mj!.,.:>< ji of your con- tinued loyalty and devotii' l. K'' ; ^.|' ne and person. I regret to think that v r- ^ :»'. i, joy has been overcast by a dark cloud of sc . .v. through the death of Mr. Fisher, one of the ablest ■ iiceis of His Majesty's service in this island. I hearlilv share your grief, and join in the sympathy which I am sure jou will tender to his widow and family." The concluding paragraph alluded to the tragic death a few days previously of Mr. F. C. Fisher, Government Agent for the North -West Province. The Duke, when he s|X)ki' >,, fet-lmgiy of this saeJ event, no «lc»nl»t hu.l in mind the fart th4t th« late Mr. I'isher was one .)f thcwe who accoiii[ nivtf the King on an Li'*'ph«nt sfK>otinK txjK dition, which was a notal>le ftatiin- »f th- Koyal vi«tit in 1875, for h was a skilful and intn )>id " shikari." There was vociferous cheering ..:. the train restjmmf its journey. Another sh rt run hrought us to Rambtikkana, where an extra enKine was tt.ched, f >r there were st. .p j,'iadieht» ThmMh '**"'^**- ' '•"■« ''«'*'" »» was 1 inirig bard, vet Hmuula "" *:'''^*-*'' '''''*' ^•»>' 1 ««i^ '>< ^varthv f.ict-s •MMry. ix-ering out fronj l.rMe.-ith dripping urn brcllas. Two elephants n the -^dfje of the ick were niailo to sdaaui. and wen rewarded with a liinty meal of dinner roil .. bananas, rank's, and other irmt, thrown to then, from th«e koval train, in the next dozen miles, ascend, ,^r the Kadujjannawa incline, the railway rises ,4(>o iit, and rounds a series of sharp carves, each bend ..jHininK up a fresh panorama of maffnificent mountain scenery, the ccH.oa nut -clad hills bemg topped by Heecy clouds, while in the v.illevs below lay the terraced paddy Helds. Toiling- upwards at a s|XH.-d of otdy i2i miles f.ast Sensation Kock, we had a striking picture in the towering mountain on the left, and a precipice 1,000 feet deep on the riKht. E.pially romantic was the passage along the Meangalla Gallerv. cut in the tace of the precipitous cliff. We arrived at Kandj' punctuallv at half-past five. The weather had meantime cleared, and a huge crowd had as- j^^^ sembled to welcome the King's son and his Consort. The station was decorated with exquisite taste. Creeping fringes of split bamboo formed a fairj-hke arcade, electric lights twinkling among the grace- ful festoons. " Welcome. Thrice Welcome ' sv us the motto. On the platform soft Indian carpets were spread. In a siding was a train of bedecked open trucks crammed with spectators, against a superb background of palm and mango trees. At the end of the platform was a spacious /:; 54 tCbe (ftneen'0 Mi0b y i ^l 1'. dais, near which, a stately and brilliantly picturesque group, stood the Chiefs of the Central Province in their full Kandyan costume. The Ratemahatmeyas were in front, and the minor headmen, carrying spears and fans, were ranged immediately behind them. To the right of the dais were seated the notabilities of the European official world, including the Chief Justice, Sir Winfield Bonser, and Lady Bonser, Bishop Copleston, Bishop Pagnani, and Mr. H. Wace, the Government Agent, while behind was a fashionable muster of prominent citizens. When the Duke had inspected the contingent of Ninth Madras Infantry who formed the guard of honour, their Royal Highnesses mounted the dais and received the Municipal Address — the fifth to-day. First, however, a pretty little girl, Miss Phyllis de Saram, handed the Duchess a magnificent bouquet. Then the address was read by Mr. Wace. It referred to the visits of the King, the late Duke of Coburg, and the lamented Duke of Clarence ; enlarged eloquently upon the advantages of British rule, which had been enjoyed throughout the Kandyan Provinces since their cession in 1815, and the extent to which, under it, the resources of the country had been developed ; and concluded with a prayer that the Divine blessing might rest on their Royal Highnesses, their children, and all the other members of the Royal Family. The document, richly illuminated, was enclosed in a silver casket. The Duke, replying, said, " I sincerely thank you, the Municipal Council, as representing the inhabitants of Kandy, for your hearty \\-^l-ome and PrMMrity. K<^ wishes, for your declaration of de- votion and attachment to the Throne, and for your affectionate tribute to the memory of our ever-beloved Queen-Empress. It is a great pleasure to me to revisit this capital of the ancient Kandyan King- dom, and to be accompanied by the Duchess, who antici- pates with interest all those natural beauties and memorials of antiquity which give your city its special renown. I rejoice to find in your address so ample a testimony to the happmess, contentment, and prosperity which those different races forming the population of the Kandyan provinces enjoy under British rule. All the advantages to which you refer with gratitude could not have achieved their full results had they not been seconded by that un- swerving loyalty and by that industry and perseverance which characterise His Majesty's subjects in this is- land." Amid salvoes of artillery and incessant cheering of the most shrill and ear-piercing character, the Roval party drove to the King's (formerly the Queen's) PaVilion, as Government House is called, the carriage containing the Governor and Lady Ridgeway heading the procession. The route was lavishly decorated with greenery and bunt- ing, and lined by troops. The day had l>een a busy and eventful one, crowded with novel and agreeable sensations. But there were still two important items on the programme, the first cere- monial, the second spectacular. A state banquet was given by the Governor, and it was an exceptionally brilliant function. The Duchess sat on His Excellency's right, while the Duke took in Lady Ridgeway. The in- vited guests, apart from the Royal suite, who were all present, included Sir J. Winfield lionser and Ladv Bonser Mr. and Mrs.Wace, Mr. E. Noel, Admiral Bosanquct and Mrs. Bosanquet, Bishop Copleston, the Maha Mudaliyar, Mr. W. T. Taylor, and Col. Egerton. After dinner came the second item, which proved a unique and splendid, if barbaric, spectacle. It was a The Perahera. ^'t-'rahera, or procession of elephants, such as the Sinhalese frequently hold as part of their religious festivals, but upon an unprecedented scale of grandeur. Never before had so large an assemblage ot elephants been seen in the island, so far, at all events as human recollection carried. Over fifty of them had l^^ i\ I? 7- I 56 Ube Queen's TISIfsb been collected from far and near, the majority being the property of wealthy chiefs. The fermt;nt of excitement into which the Pcrahera threw the entire population ot Kandy was almost incredible. The streets throughout the evening were impassable, and from every possible {Kjint of view one saw a squash of closely-huddled, frantically -eajrer, garishly -attired Buddhist, Hindoo, Pagan, or Chiistian holiday-makers. Startinj,' from the Temple at half-past nine o'clock, the procession which caused all this commotion pursued . «_i ^ • 'ts slow lumberinjj way to the grounds of An OrlenUl ^, ... . ,, .7: •' , , ,, , Batuniklia. *"^ Kmg s ravilion, where the Koyal visitors were to witness it from a spacious balcony over the main portico. Headinj,' it was a " pro|)erty " elephant, rudely fashioned, covered with white cloth, and mounted on a car drawn by a cow. This artificial element had no doubt been introduced because no live white elephant was available, the so- called white specimens, which are really of a rather dirtyfjrey colour, being objects of veneration, since faithful followers of Huddha believe them to be incar- nations of the great founder of their cult. The array of superb tuskers and elephants cf all sizes — some being quite dimmutive — in which this absurd stuffed figure was assigned the place of honour, was about half a mile in length. Seated upon, leading, dancing around — some- times luuUr — and following or preceding the gorgeouslv- bedi/ened beasts was a mad heterogeneous throng of revellers numbering in all fully two thousand. First of all there walked at intervals in the procession fifty chiefs, resplendent in brocade and cloth of gold costumes, yet every one of them, in accordance with their religion, barefooted. There were three hundred torch-bearers and as many dancers. The elephants came along two or three, sometimes four abreast. On the neck of each were several mahouts. One huge fellow had gold-encased tusks, l^ristling spears, waving banners, dusky skins, ^u ftandi? 57 58 XTbe Queen'0 Wiieb flaring torches, KiitteriiiK robes, and towering elephants, as the procession formed up in a semi-circle under the shadow of the great trees on the lawn facing the pavilion, from the balcony of which the Duke and Duchess, sur- rounded by the Governor's guests, were looking on, constituted a picture of barbaric splendour seldom ecjualled in modern times, while the incessant beating of tom-toms and the shrill discordant notes of reed pipes, mingleil with the shouts of the wildly-gesticulating dancers, was pandemoniimi worse confounded. Mounted on one cK-phant was a intmber of a British South African contingent, in khaki. Another apparent incongruity in such a scene was a man in the uniform of the Salvation Army. The torches and the braziers — which filled tin- air with an acrid odour of burnt cocoanut oi! — illu- minated the grounds like day. When the Koyal party had watched this Oriental saturnalia for some time, the Duke signified his desire The Duke and tha Chiefs. to see the chiefs. The Maligawa ele- phants had meanwhile taken up their position in the centre of the semi-circle, the Dewella elephants were ranged on either side, and the chiefs were congregated in knots at each extremity. Ratemahatmcya Dimuwille at their head, they were brought for\vard to the portico, whither His Koyal Highness, accompanied by the Governor and Mr. Wace, had descended. The Duke shook hands with Mr. Dunuwille, and then the Dewa Nilame and Yatawara, the senior Ratemahatmcya of Lower Hewaheta, were in turn presented. His Royal Highness said a few words to the chiefs, assuring them that both himself and the Duchess had greatly enjoyed the Perahera, and thanking them most cordially for the spectacle. Mr. Dunuwille, who is a representative of one of the most ancient Kandyan families, and had taken a leading part in organising the Perahera, made a suitable reply. The procession tluii rcformttl and left the grounds. As it 1lan^!? 59 wended its way back to the Temple, it was af,'ain hailed with boundless delight by the multitude. There was no diminution next day in the scenes of bustling interest and whole-hearted rejoicing which had marked the first hours of the Royal visit to Kandy. From dawn the roadways teemed with natives of every caste and from all parts of the island, in the gaudiest attire, presenting ever-varying combinations of colour so /■*,.A. *i ftrmUiim f/Du .l/vHurarit^r Company. CrUialu.} Kudy. The Sinhalese Arch 6o XTbe Queen's TIBItsb I l/J -M ^^^^^^^^^F< ^^' iu 1 ^M 1 » ■ •1 • "i: -•l>^lK«i Kaady. Triaaipiial Arck dazzling that they would have wearied the eye had it not been for the delicious backf^rouiids of fresh and luxurious foliafje. The general effect, which was most pleasing, was heighten-jd by the beautiful street decora- tions, including several extremely graceful arches. All ilay long the roadsides were dotted with charmingly picturesque groups of men, girls, mothers, and babes squatting in the shade, eating their scanty meals, and waiting with a patience that seemed to have no limits for the passmg of the Royal cavalcade. In the morning the Duke received a singuhirlv mteresting g.ft m the form of a cluster of King cocoa- UalqMOIfto. ""*^ ^"*^^^ J'*'*' a «reen melon-shaped ... . „ ''■"'^' ^t" Srown on trees planted by the King .n 1875 at the old fort of Hongwella, some hundred milcs from Randy It was at the same time reported to His Royal Highness that the trees which he himself had planted nineteen years ago, though not yet fruit- bearing, were in a flourishing condition. Part of the forenoon was devoted by their Royal Highnesses to inspecting the stocks of several C<.lomb<. jewellers, who had been summoned for the puri^se, and from whom a number of purchases were made. At noon a deputation representing the Cevlon Planters- Association was received in the large cool hall of the Ih« PiMtaff*. ^"^'<=''"o'"'s residence and delivered an ad- » ♦», •. , r' ^^'^'c""""K their Kojal Highnesses to the capital of the planting districts. It was enclosed inasuperbly-carved ivory casket which had been shown at the late Paris Exhibition as a chef d\vuv,e in this particular branch of Oriental art. This was on. <,! the most costly and beautiful gifts their Roval Highnesses received in the course of their tour. The casket was mlaid with gold and studded with tvventv-four tiifferent kinds of precious stones, including whole pearls a-id a wonderful star ruby. The planters, who claimed that there was no more loyal body of men than themselves, remarked in the course of their address, which was read by the Chairman, Mr. Edward Kosling. that had time permitted a visit to Xuwara Eliva and the higher i.lur.t- ing districts, the Duke would have been intcrtsted in the evidence ol the great extent of the industr\ thev repre- sented. " - *^ The Duke replied :-'• One of ihe most pleasant 6a XTbe dlneen'f Misb memories of my visit to Ceylon nineteen years ago in company with my dear brother is the loyal and enthu- siastic reception accorded to us by the planters of Ceylon. The same kindly spirit has been displayed towards the Duchess and me on this occasion, and we sincerely thank you for your hearty welcome and for the loyal sentiments expressed in your address. In 1882 the great tea cultivation was yet in its infancy, and the Ceylon planters were still engaged with the one hand in com- bating the disease which threatened their staple — coffee — and with the other in seeking for new products to replace or to supplement it. To add to these difficulties came a serious financial crisis, but the combination of misfortunes was faced with intelligent and skilful resource, with that pluck, patience, and determination which have ever characterised the planters of Ceylon. It is owing to these qualities that your products have won the high position in the markets of the world which they now enjoy. I feel sure you are fully alive to the necessity, in these days of keen competition, of maintaining the same high standard of skill and energy in order to keep and to extend the position you have secured. I much regret that at the present time your pros- pects are not so bright as usual. I earnestly trust that this depression is but temporary, and I shall watch with hopeful interest for the early revival of the pros- perity you so well deserve. I thank you for the language in which you refer to the important mission which has been entrusted to me by my dear father, and for the wishes that it may serve to knit even closer the ties of affection which bind together the Empire over which His Majesty rules. I shall not fail to convey to him the expressions of your loyalty and attachment to his Throne and person, and of your revcr>^nce for the memory of our late beloved and universally mourned Sovereign." An investiture was held immediately afterwards, 1uln^v 63 Cylon. The l>l«iit«r«- AdJreM ti Zbc Qnecttf Mtf b I (. i when the Duke conferred the order of St. Michael and St. George upon the Hon. F. A. Cooper, Director of Public Works; Mr. Ellis, Government A^cnt for the Western Province ; and Mr. John Henricus de Saram, District Judge of Kandy. An extremely pretty and interesting ceremony took place in the afternoon within the grounds of the King's Pavilion. This was the presentation by ^'flwwmr*^ the Duke of a new colour to the Ceylon Mounted Infant>y. The regiment was drawn up on the beautifully wooded and shady lawn where the Perahera had mustered before the Kojal party the previous evening. Companies of the Duke of Cornwall's Light Infantry and of the Planters' Rifle Corps were also paraded as guards of honour. The attendance of the public was a large and fashionable one, nearly all official personages and the ilUe of Kandyan society being present. His Royal Highness wore the white uniform of a rear-admiral, and was accompanied by the Duchess, who was dressed in white, with some black trinuning in her hat. The impressive ceremonial of trooping the old colour having been performed, the troops formed three sides of a s«|uare, and the Duke, addressing them, said—" A very pleasant duty has been deputetl to me by the King. It is to present His Majt-sty's colour to the Ceylon Mounted Infantry, and to confer the African War medals on those who have taken part in the campaign. I confide to your keeping this colour, not only as a record of past services, but as an emblem of patriotism, loyalty, and brotherhood, around which you may rally whenever occasion shall arise for you again to give your services for the defence of the interests of the Empire. I regret that, as hostilities still continue, many of your comrades cannot be present to-daw There are some, alas, who can only be here in memory. We sympathise heartily with all who mourn dear ones, such as Lieutenant Thomas, one of three brothers belont;ing MKXOCOPV nSOlUTION TBT CHART (ANSI and ISO TEST CHART No. 2) APPLIED IM^GE Inc 1653 East Main Street Rochester. New York 14609 USA (716) 4«2-03OO- Phone (716) 2M-5989-FO. f- 66 tTbc (Slucen Misb to an old and respected planter family, and others who have laid down their lives or sacrificed their health, following the call of duty. I take this opportunity of acknowledging the valuable services rendered by the planters. They not only sent a large number of Volun- teers to the front, but they formed among themselves a rifle club, which I am glad to see represented here to-day, for the protection of your own shores against a possible foe," , The colour was solemnly consecrated by the Bishop i-4l* riwio fj A. II'. Kandy. Presentation of Medals of Colombo, and was handed by His Royal Highness to Major Gordon Reeves, who received it on bended knee. War medals were then presented by the Duke to twenty officers and men who had served in South Africa, the first to receive one being Lieutenant Clementi Smith, son of the late Colonial Secretary. Later in the after- noon their Royal Highnesses went for a drive round the lake, an extensive body of water artificially created by the last king of Kandy in 1806. Great crowds had been anxiously awaiting their appearance all day, and they were everywhere enthusiastically greeted. *an&S 67 of all the funcfons held in Ceylon had been resSved The DoriMir. "^"f ^'""e'"' *« ^vhich many leading offi- invitp- their "n 1 ^"^ "^^^' '''"^ "^'•^t^^'-y officers were invitp their xvoyal Highnesses attended a durbar in the Audience Hall This furnished forth a scene of gl t "r ^„ Oriental magnihcence. The chiefs, in full state re^S a carne early with their semi-barbarous retinues, and, ringed in double line down the middle of the 1 ir-e nblonri roofed chambei. stood there in sollmn^; uesn^'r'eno:; awaiting the arrival of the King's son and da'ghtcT-i. mos't d . . T'' °f """^ ""^ '^^"^^"'^' '" -hich al t,^ mos de icate hues of the rainbow were blended scint ated with jewels, gold embroidery, and medals Rom d a^dsTfine 'iiir ^""h'^ ^°"^'^^'"« "^ ^^v do" n }ards of fine silk wound length upon length till the accumulated folds lent to their bodies a fictitio s Z ruly grandiose en.bonpoint. Upon their heads he wore the traditional four-cornered, cushion-like hats of he r exalted order, sparkling with diamonds, pearls rubts an o her precious stones. Their shapeh' small 'b^^:;' as usual, were bare. Behind the chiefs were the nin!; headmen, naked to the waist. One veneral^e ch e Z stood near me showed with pride a huge gold me d which his grandfather had earned bv distinguished so t m the Kandyan Rebellion of z8,8. " CuriouT no," '^ c^ose juxtaposition to this spokesman of a line oMov" Oriental chieftains, stood the notorious Arabi > sh-7 eader of the Egyptian military insurrection of 88 "ho was exiled to Ceylon the following year It was twenty minutes past ten when the Duke and Duchess, escorteJ by a contingent of Mounted Infantrv hT^R 1 !^.\^"^-"- Hall from the Kin^; it , ?„' nis ordLrs. The Duchess was attired in a black eveninrr gown ornamented with jet She unr. .. ,. ''''^'^ *';''"'"R and n-khr. a,. " \ i , '^'^'^^ "^ d'anv^id tiara n..klaca. Attended by the members of the suite 68 TCbe (Slueen's Mtob f their Royal H iRhnesses walked up the middle of the room, bowing right and left to the glittering double row of chiefs, and as- cended the dais, which was lav- ishly upholstered and flanked with great ivory tusks. The chiefs, who were presented in the order of their d-stricts, advanced in groups and sa- laamed, the Duke shaking hands with a few of the most d i s t i n- guished. An in- teresting i n n o- vation was the presentation to the Duchess, at he- express desire, of two Kantlyan ladies who had made a point of attending, though Sinhalese women of rank invariably hold aloof from public appearances of every description. Immediatelv after the durbar, the Royal party pro- ceeded on foot CO the Temple of the Sacred In the Temple jooth^ ^vhich was hard by, and on entering 8acred*Tooth. were escorted along labyrinthian passages lined on either side by rows of Buddhist priests with shaven heads, holding flaming torches to light rh^.lo tty permission of tht Coivmho Jfothfiarits' t\"'i/a>n.\ J Kandyan Chief In fuK & lU Costume I I 1 1 1{an^)? 69 riiala ty /ttrmisiicH n/ Mr. A. If. .Indyft, Coli;Hio.\ in the Temple, Kandy. The Sacred Tooth i\ ! w i 1' 70 xTbe Queeit'0 Mtob the way, and wearing yellow robes which only partially covered their gleaming bodies. On reaching the Dalada Moligama, or Shrine of the Sacred Tooth of Gautama, their Royal Highnesses spent some time examining that and the other relics, many of which were richly bejewelled. The so-called sacred tooth, by the way, is not a human molar at all, but a piece of discoloured bone or ivory the size of a child's little finger, and is not even the original relic, which was destroyed by the Portuguese. Still, it is aM object of great veneration, and is seldom exhibited, except to pious pilgrims. The Duke and Duchess sub- sequently climbed to the summit of the octagonal tower which surmounts the temple to view the illuminations, for the popular fete, which coincided with the Buddhist New Year, was in full swing, and was being thoroughly enjoyed by many thousands of happy and docile natives, who were enthusiastic in their demonstrations of loyalty. The fireworks included excellent portraits of their Royal Highnesses, and representations of the Royal Arms. There was also the illuminated model of a warship on the lake. The party finished a most interesting and romantic evening by driving round the town, which was still lighted up a giotno. Their Royal Highnesses were everywhere loudly acclaimed. It was long past midnight when they returned to the Pavilion. On Sunday, the Duke and Duchess enjoyed a com- plete rest. In the forenoon they attended service in the English Church, when the Bishop of Colombo preached to a crowded congregation, among whom were several chiefs in their national cos- tumes. A delightful excursion to the famous Botanical Gardens, which are considered the finest in the world, occupied the afternoon. The four- mile drive to this sylvan resort was along a route de- corated on both sides with a graceful hed^_ formed of small continuous arches of split bamboo and cocoanut. We passed on the way many picturesque groups of Drive to the Qardens. 'ftan^l? 7t Kandy. Crowd outside the Botanical QardciM expectant natives and swarms of children, while nntside the garden gates an immense crowd awaited the Royal visitors, who, on arriving at five o'clock,^accompanied by the Governor, the Chief Justice, the Government Age'nt, and the suite, were frantically cheered. One interesting little ceremony, which did not involve any speeches, was performed. A tree had been planted by the King on the occasion of his visit. Within a couple of hundred yards 1* Hbe aineen'0 TlOlisb Ttm PlMtlag. of the King's tree and in full view of it, the Duke now planted another, using for the purpose a mamotty, or hoc, with silver blade and ebony handle. When the tiny sapling, which belonged to the cannon-ball species, had been well and firmly planted, the Duchess refreshed it with a liberal sprinkling from a small watering-pot. Another short drive through the umbrageous grounds brought the party to a rustic kiosk, where tea had been Kandy. Tin Dak* and DwIwm ar* Coariog . iA. While it was being served, loud trumpetings heard in the near distance, and presently a herd of thirteen fine elephants, the majority of them Elephantsf huge tuskers, emerged through the trees. Advancing at a rapid trot down a grassy declivity, the bells attached to their harness jangling noisily, they halted in front of the kiosk, and in obedience to the word of command from their several mahouts, knelt before the Royal guests. The animals then went through one or two other of their favourite performances. First, • they enjoyetl a long bath in the swollen rust-red river — wading, sitting, lying, and wallowing in the swiftly-flow- ing stream, and affording their mahouts ample opportunity t o display the extra- ordinary agility with which they can retain their seats on an ele- phant's neck while it is em- ployed in such antics. The Duke and Duchess looked on from a sum- """ f*"*^ *> »•* •""« •■ ""ra mer-house on the face of a steep bank, while the equally, high bank on the other side, lined as it was by thou- sands of natives in costumes of which red and white were the dominating colours, offered a charming picture against the vivid green back-groi; d of palms and other lofty trees. The elephants afte lards butted down a couple of trees, not without consiucrable effort, the vigorous roots holding tenaciously for some time! though the doomed trunks swayed to and fro like reeds in a gale under the sheer and applied strength of the tremendous beasts, which trumpeted and screamed with baffled rage. When at length the first great tree came to earth with a mighty crash, its red roots upturned in air, its demolishers were rewarded by a - lund of applause 74 tbc dtneen'0 WiBb i h': from the Royal party, who had meanwhile returned to the kiosk. Darkness fcll .is we left the gardens amid the cheers and eajjer hand-dapping of the waitinf; crowds. We bade farewell to sunny Kandy on the morning of Monday, April 15th. The send-off was as gracious as the r»rtw«ll !• K''®?*'"fi- ^^^ ^"♦•'■® British official and KMiy. native population took part in it. From dawn th load between the King's Pavilion and the station was thronged by the same patient ever- picturesque crowds, thou- sands of whom, I learned, had during the past few days slept by the wayside, on the stone flags of the market- place, or anywhere they could in the open air. The early morning was misty, but later the sun, as before throughout the visit, was broiling. Escorted by a de- tachment of the Ceylon Mounted Infantry, and ac- companied by the Gover- nor and Lady Ridgeway, the Royal party drove to the station along the gaily- bedecked route, passing, as on their arrival, under a dozen arches of delicately- woven and gaudily tricked- out greenery. The scene of the reception was re- peated, and punctually at noon the train steamed off on the return journey to SapllBg plaatad by tlw Duke ^ , . t^ .. j i in 1901 Colombo. It stopped only 1uln^v 7J twice for a few moments—at Rambukkana and \eyangoda. Their Royal HiKhnesiic's lunched in their »aloon. a^ain attended by the Governor's retainers in their old-world Dutch liveries. The hour of the departure had not been announced, so there were no formal demonstrations. Nevertheless, many stations en route were thronged with respectfully salutinj,' inhabitants. Colombo was reached at j.30. and there once more the pent-up enthusiasm found vent. Kandy had carried off the lion's share of the honours, but Colomlxj was deter- mined to have her slice of loyal exuberance, as op- OelMBks lUa- ?"'"*""'*>' served, .'he Lascorcci gua'^, ■Iwktod. another survival of Dutch domination, was inspected, and their Royal Highnesses then drove round the town, receiving everywhere gratifying testimony of the happiness their sojourn in the island afforded. Two native police cyclists and r-ix mounted mfantrymen preceded the carriage in which the Governor and Lady Ridgeway were seated. The next landau bore the Duke and Duchess, the former in white naval uniform and the latter in a dress of black and white foulard, with a hat of white and silver lace and black flowers. The Royal carriage was followed by the Go- verr Vs Indian orderlies with lances flying pennants. The rest of the party were accommodated in four other car- riages, and the rear of the procession was brought up by six of the mounted infantry. There were postillions for the first two cnrriages. thoiie attached to the Royal landau being Euro , ans. The driv s were all Indians, in brilliant scar' t uniforms. 1 ' veatli r was beautifully fine. The route extend^ over a distance of eight miles, including the Eun an business and residential quarters. Shops, oftices, and b ,|r)ws w. ro ui lavishly decorated. Special rare was 'ak . *!„. Ko>al party should have ample opportunity o i he Pettah and Slave Island districts, chiefiy inh^ by natives, also by Tamil , Afghans, and Malays, v.. were a source of great interest CI ■/ I 76 TTbe aiitccn'« vsmto to their Koyal HiKlinfKM*«. In retiirniiiK tlif party passiil alntiK Point (li! (iailt! I*aci>. a splfntlid marine drive over a mile in IcnKth, where the cool sea hrri ch wen* most welcome. Thirty arches npanned the ro.it*-, which was decorated in Oriental style with palm leaves and tropical plants, as well as hnntinf;;. Nothing coiiltl exiced the enthusiasm and deli);ht of the crowds, to whom the Duke and Duchess continuously lM>wed in acknowledt;- met)t of the ovation. The Koyal party returned to Oiieen's House at 6.50 p.ni. A brilliant reception was hehl after dinner at the Queen's Hous«;. Those present included the ofticers of the s(piadron, military ofticers, foreign Consuls in imiform, and several hi^h-caste Sinhalese ladies in native costume. Music wa« provided by the band of the Opiiir, The facade of the Queen's House, t e (iovernment buildings, the Post Office, and the C!u8tom House were outlined by thousands of f,'as jets, and there were numerous devices and mottoes. The stn^ets were thron>,'o(l with en hu- siastic crowds. The Duke ;iiul Duchess watched the illuminations first from the ball ony of the Queen's House, in front of which a military tattoo took place, and after- wards from the roof of St. Peter's Church, frontinf; the harbour. The s and Duch«;s ••e- embarked in their floatinf? palace. They were esci I down to the (juay by the Cnni-rnor . .1 "Ophlr." ^liss Kidfjeway, Lady Kid},'j\va\ hi mg too much fatif^ued by her arduous ;.iui anxious duties as hostess to accompany t • 1 ■. Thi; .r akwater was still abla/e with a lonfj line o. . 'rches. and massed bands playe- -^ the uniformf u " ^'^>'^'»^'-d' ^he latter in flaming re.l unifo ms. It was they who presently had the honour o escortrng the.r Royal Hi.^hnesses throuj^h the cTf o Government House. - The populace who cheered the Royal cor- tc{^e, apart from the British, who to a lar«,'e extent monopolised the I'ost places in stands, windows, and balconies, comprised Chinese in fjreat numbers, Malays, Goanese, Klinf,'s, Af- ghans, and all the non- descript flotsam and jet- sam of the East. It is difficult to say whether the decorations of Singapore were more beautiful when illumi- nated by the da^^linfj sunlif,'ht durin;,' the day or by artificial means after nightfall. Under . __. both aspects they were *'"«■!»••«• Roy«l Bar^e approaching the ■' Laadlnr Stage if ■ • I J 84 Ube ^necn'e Mtdb i/'iC'if i f enchanting, reminding one, as they did continually, of scenes from the Arabian Nights. The Chinese, who are here a wealthy and influential coinmunitv, A ChiBAM Phui- tMnuLtfortaT ^'"^ ^J' ^^'^^^ united efforts produced a per- fect phantasmagoria of decorative and illu- minative effects. Miles of street were tnckid out with every imaginable sort of weird and extravagant device. They were overhung with grotescjue fishes, birds, dragons, and other known or fabulous creatures of fragile framework and gossamer paper, so that they floated lazily hither and thither in the garish light, though there was hardly a zephyr to stir them. In the evening the harbour, filled with merchant shipping, with the illuminated squadron beyond, gleamed with myriads of lanterns and trans- parencies. But it was Chinatown, transformed into fairy- like arcades of multi-coloured radiance, which was the real centre of attraction for the holiday-making crowds of all castes and creeds. Hither, too, came the Duke and Duchess after dinner to view those marvels of Celestial ingenuity and polychromatic embellishment. Their Royal Highnesses, in a carriage escorted by Mounted Police in khaki, drove at a walking pace all round to^nby^MUht. Chinatown, the members of the suite, in specially appointed " royal " rickshas, fol- lowing in a long straggling procession. The vivid im- pressions of that evening will long live in the memory. On either side, massed in front of their elaborately ornate, toy-like dwellings, theatres, restaurants, and joss-houses, was a vista of intent yellow faces, with sleek pigtails attached, in a setting of silk and gold-embroidered cos- tumes, and illumined by the soft glow of innumerable paper lanterns of every hue, which turned night into effulgent day. On every veranda and at every \\ide- open window was a family group of these fascinatingly picturesque Oriental people, the interiors in the back- ground hung with rich stuffs and crammed with bric-a-brac. At various points we passed under charming arches of Singapore 83 characteristic desifjn, !)earinf,', somctiitics in Kiifjlish, some- times in Chinese, a greetinj,' or a prayer for the health, happiness, and long life of the Royal pair. Except at corners and crossings where British residents or scpiads of bluejackets had mustered, there was not much actual cheering, but, with all their native stolidity, the Chinese plainly showed that they were keenly interested and deeply gratified by this friendly and informal appearance Singapore. The Landlnc Stmge of Britain's future King and Queen in their midst. The drive terminated soon after eleven. HoreAddruMi Monday forenoon was (jccupied by the and CHketi. presentation of no fewer than twelve ad- dresses, each enclosed in a costly casket. The ceremony took place in the Town Hall, which was crowded by the various deputations and the leaders of Singa- pore society. Ladies were in the majority. The heat ^ 86 TTbe Queen'0 Mtob was stitlinp, though doors and windows were flunj,' wide open and a lar^e punkah swung continuously o\er the Royal dais. When their Royal Highnesses entered, a choir in the gallery sang " God Save the King." The iJuke wore his wihite naval uniform, with the ribbon of St. Michael and St. George and numerous other decora- tions, while the Duchess wore a cool ivory-white dress and a white hat trimmed with black. The first address was from the liritish subjects in the Colony. It was read by Mr. Jhomas Scott. One 8o».InUF..M«|J*="'^«*-' '" •* ''P»'> «'""'""1 «'P the pre- PolnU. vaihng sentiment of all the rest— that in which the residents spoke of "steady progress in civilisation, industry, wealth, and comfort, freely and impartially shared by every race and creed who find protection under the Hritish flag." The remain- ing addresses, from the Singapore and other munici- palities, the Chamber of Commerce, the Community of Penang, the Community of Malacca, the Malays, Chinese, Arabs, Hindoos, the Moslem Association, the Nattucottai Chitty Community, and the Tamils, expressed more or less diffusely the same idea, so they were taken as read, and it was understood that the Dn'ke's reply to the first was to be regarded as applicable to all. An interesting point was made by the Arabs, who recalled the fact that the Settlement of Singapore was founded in 1819, 'I the happy year in which our late most gracious Sovereign Lady gueen Victoria was born," and that in the course of that or the following year the first Arabs came to the place, voyaging in their own ships and trading. The "loving and loyal" Hindoos, as they described themselves, wished their Royal Highnesses I'all blessings, with long life, health, peace, joy, and immortal fame." It was curious to note that the address of the Municipal Commissioners, which spoke of the Colony as "manifestly destined in the near future to attain to the highest position among the Crown Slnoaporc 87 Stotaper*. On tb* Quay Colonies of this Rreat Empire," and invoked every bless- mg upon King Edward, "supreme Lord in and over these Settlements," was signed by three gentlemen, not one of whom bore an English name— J. O. Antlionis-?, F. E. Jago, and Choa Giang Thye. Longest of all was the address of the Moslem Association, which was signed by M. S, Baker (President), Syed Ali bin Sahil (Vice- President), and Syed Mahmoud (Secretary). Referring to the death of the late yueen, it mentioned with grati- tude the fostering care Her Majesty had alwavs displayed for the welfare of her Moslem subjects, and "added that they would ever cherish and revere Victoria's name as that of the greatest ruler who had ever guided the Moilem Homage. ^""^^'"'^ ^^ imfums. "It is a fact," the address went on to say, " too well known to be disputed, that no ruler enjoys the homage, loyalty, and love of more Moslem subjects than does the King of England. We Moslems have every cause to rejoice 88 Ube Qttecn'0 Witb n that \vc have In-en |H)rn on Iritisli tioil, that wo live btiicath that tmbltm of jiistin; the MaK of ICriKland. and that we breathe the pure and untainted air of Hritish freeiloin." This eltM|iicnt adtlress, whit h ron- chided with fervent wishes that Hea\en nii(,'ht shower on ill the members of the Royal I'amilx its ( hoicest blessings, terminatetl with the words. "Amen. Amen. Amen." Th»! Duke's reply was ld. The frame was ebony, and l^^ Sinonporc «<» was surmountwl by tlyiiiK tlr;ij,"'ns in p.l.l striv ,' ft>r a |Karl. this \. tain!;- formed an imposinjj as well as ,^»% tribute. Immediately after the presentations. His K*>\ »t Hfjfh- ness held an investiture, conferring u\Hm tlu ultan of Perak the order and insi{,'nia of (i.C.M.(i., .-id upon Mr. Vermont, a member of the Lr^'islative Council, those of C..M.G. tit- le 9° TCbe Oluccn's mub The Sultan . |»crak, who wan thus highly himourcd — und the diHtii .tion was enurmuusiy apprcciutcil by the IftUv* whole natire community— was unfciKnciily tvlMUtM. - ' -^?-i- - '(,' i Slnsapore. The Water FSte. Singapore, a stoker on boarH the Opitir died of peritonitis — the result of injudicious indulgence in tropical fruit — A Funeral ^"'^ ^^ '^^ ordered a sailor's burial. I may here ftt Sea. mention, as a matter of sincere congratula- tion, that this was the only death in the squadron throughout the tour, though it lasted seven and a half months, and the total personnel was never less than fifteen hundred, while on the homeward voyage, when larger cruisers formed the escort, it was nearer two thou- sand. The unfortunate man who suc^ umbed was George Booth, a native of Aberdeen. The thunders of the artillery and the ciieers from the foreign and British warships at Singapore had hardly died away when a signal was made by the Opfiir notifying the squadron to prepare for the funeral service at sundown. At six o'clock the ships, still in sight of land, stopped their engines, and the deceased stoker was buried with full naval honours. The impressive t 1 1 flDcIbournc ,,7 service was witnessed by the Duke and Dn.hess, the suite and the whol.. ship's cmpanv , the crews of the Jtifw and St. George, which were drifting a few cables' len-ths awav on the port and starboard quarters, standing bv in solemn any six of the dead man's messmates. In front walked the band playing Chopin's Funeral March A wreath was placed upon the remains by Commander Wemyss, Chaplain Wood said the last pravers, three volleys we.e fired by a party of Marines, and the buglers sounded "The Last Post." Darkness brooded over the face of the waters when the body was committed to the deep. The service conclude.! with the singiu" of the hymn, "A few more Years shall Roll," Lady Marv Lygon. who always discharged this dutv at " Church '' playing the accompaniment upon the harmonium The Duchess and many others who took part in the sad cere- mony were affected to tears. Nothing could have been more grandly impressive than the obsequies of this hum- ble member of the Royal ship's companv. The service lasted fully half an hour. As soon as it' terminated the three vessels, which had meanwhile drifted wide apart resumed their course in the warm, still night, every' heart oppressed by the painful dutv which had just been carried out. " j ^ . In the Navy, as in the world at large, one quickly turns from grave to gay. Two days later we were "crossing the GroBsln« the V"*^' " ^^^ holding high festival, with all Line. the traditional observances proper to the occasion, in a manner of which many officers and men who had been twenty years or more in the Service had had no experience. It was by the ex- press wish of the Duke that court was thus paid io Father Neptune. Due notice had been given to the G 98 TCbe (iltteen'0 mtsb squadron, for the day ve left Colombo the following signal was made : — " His Royal Highness received a telegram whilst at Colombo from Mr. and Mrs. Neptune expressing the in- tention of visiting the ships of the squadron on April 25. His Royal Highness hopes you will permit this visit, and as there must be many young men on board your ships who have not yet had the honour of a personal intro- duction to this old sea-dog, he trusts you will allow the ancient custom of the Service to be carried out for the entertainment and amusement of the ship's company." Captain Bush, of the 5/. George, immediately signalled back the reply — " Please inform His Royal Highness that I have ordered the hawse-plug to be kept open on the 25th inst. for King Neptune and his wife and daughters, and I shall have the honour of presenting my debutants to them." Captain Routh sent a somewhat similar reply from the Juno. Between this intimation of the Royal wish and the eventful day great preparations for Father Neptune's festival were in progress in all three ships, but they were veiled in profoundest mystery. On the evening of the 24th, Neptune, with his wife Amphitrite, his daughters, doctor, clerk, bears, policemen, „ . _ and other satellites — or, rather, three sepa- Naptune Comes ^ ,.. r ..<■-•. . on Bomrd. ''^^^ Kmgs of the Sea, with three separate retinues — boarded the vessels of the squad- ron. Swarming on to the forecastle, and even in one instance startling the officer of the watch by climbing over the canvas- covered sides of the forebridge, they hailed the ship and demanded the name of her commander. " H.M.S. Ophir, Rear- Admiral His Royal Highness the Duke of Corn- wall and York," was the answer on bcjard the Royal yacht. The mysterious visitants from the vasty deep, whose tawny locks of tow were tangled with seaweed, and whose " rig " was otherwise in strict accord with time-honoured custom, were in each case received with the utmost for- mality and respect, the Duke himself in the Opliir and the /Melbourne 99 /•*»/. /ty/rrmiiHtn ,.r .l/«jrr. lit,/ ai„t Sen. Sci,th,ra \ CrouiiiK the Line. Hie. Royal Hlghncee belnc Ducked captains of the cruisers doing the honours with excellently simulated mock humility. Libations of firewater were offered, and accepted with much show of reluctance, and Neptune and his train retired to complete their prelimin- aries for the revels of the morrow. The Line had actually been crossed on the Tuesday night, but it had been found more convenient to hold the The Duke ^^^tival on the Thursday. By breakfast- Ducked. t'lTiP all was in readiness, and the cere- monies began simultaneously in each ship at 9.30. Great canvas tanks, with a platform, had been rigged up on deck overnight, and filled with water to a depth of about five feet, hose pipes providing a continuous fresh supply from the sea. On the platform was the G 2 lOO TTbe Queen'0 Wii»b ducking chair or stool with a revolving seat, from which the victims were to be precipitated backwards into the first tank. It was in high processional state, with chariots, dolphins, and all the paraphernalia of his mystic ritual, that Neptune approached and constituted his Court. The Duke shook hands with him, while Mrs. Neptune cere- moniously presented to the Duchess a basket of coral. Though the Duke had crossed the Equator before, His Royal Highness entered thoroughly into the spirit of the frolic, and in the most sportsmanlike manner offered him- self as the first subject. He was placed in the barber's chair, lathered with a huge shaving-brush— the lather being a generously frothy compound of soap, whiting, and oatmeal. The next process was shaving with a scrap of old hoop-iron. While this was being done His Royal Highness was plied with all sorts of questions, to none of which did he vouchsafe any reply. There was wisdom in thus mai .aining silence, for those who acquiesced in politely-tendered suggestions of refreshment were forced to swallow a most nauseous potion of vinegar and water, while the unwary victim who accepted the proffered smell- ing-salts had his nose incontinently pricked by a needle concealed in the cork. There were other equally uncomfortable snares for the too-confiding novitiate. Those who resigned themselves most completely into the hands of their tormentors came off best. The least show of resistance was visited with aggravated penalties of one kind or another. The final stage of the ordeal was to be shot backwards, head foremost, from the ducking-stool into the tank, where eight stalwart bears were waiting to perform their share of the ceremony, which was to thoroughly duck and souse the novice, passing him on from hand to hand till he emerged at the end of the third The Suite *^"'* '" ^ perfectly breathless and half- follow Suit, choked condition. After the Duke, Com- modore Winsloe, Lord Wenlock, Sir Charles Cust, Viscount Crichton, and indeed all the members of /BeII)onrne tot .e loa TCbe Qnecn's TOteb the suite, with one exception— even Sir Arthur Lawiey, the new Governor of West Australia— were lathered, shaved, interrogated, ducked, and thus made freemen of the sea. The absentee was the Chevalier Martino, who had a sufficient excuse. When his name was called the Duke answered " Sick ** on his behalf, and the apology passed muster. The officers and the rest of the ship's company followed. All were lathered, catechised, ducked, an! admitted to the freedom of the sea. No attempt at recalcitrancy succeeded. Defaulters without adequate reason were speedily discovered by Neptune's vigilant police, and their last state was worse than their first. For the Duchess and the other ladies of the party a less trying ordeal had been ordained. They were chris- ten., d by I'ather Neptune with water from a' silver bowl, which had been thoughtfully provided for this contingency. Having in courtly phrase expressed the pleasure it afforded him to renew his acquaintance with His Royal Highness, Neptune turned to the Duchess and said : ''I am also very pleased to make your acquaintance. Will you allow yourself to be christened ? " Her Chriitrat ^°y** Highness replied in the affirmative, thsDnohan. whereupon the old sea-dog, waxing timid for probably the first time in his roistering history, proffered the baptismal bowl to the Duke, who, however, only answered, "Oh, do it yourself!" The Sea-King sufficiently overcame his nervousness to dip his fingers in the bowl and, with great circumspection, just touch the forehead of his future Queen, thus christening her*' a woman of the sea." Her Royal Highness was therefore now not only the first British princess to cross the Equator, but the first also to receive the freedom of Neptune's kingdom. " Make and mend clothes," was the signal made to the squadron as soon as these most interesting ceremonies were at an end, an order which to the landsman may appear by no means appropriate, but which to the sailor ■ :■ I 3. K 3t 0) j^Mi iU^qt*4. jtJL^ 9CUA\JC ytcfi^ ' . . ' ^*^i3r'**^i*^«^-*' -^n*^ ■ JtoMe# o^ cjhmm-mJ ^kJl,L. U^^MttU ^cU/fiu^^uu a^CU to *v /^rmisstim of Vr. Alfred Pmrte.\ Melbourne. St. Kllda Pier might have been expected, land in the Royal barge carried by the Si. George for the purpose, and the midshipman who would have had charge of the smart blue and silver launch was thus robbed of the honour of disembark- ing the Royal visitors on Commonwealth territory. This much coveted distinction was instead enjojed by Commander Richardson, of the \'ictorian Navy, trans- fe-red for the nonce to the bridge of the Hygeia.A grace- ful white-painted paddle - steamer usually employed on excursion traffic. The intention, no doulit, was to save io8 4 TTbe d^ueen's misb time and inconvenience by landing the entire party simul- taneously, since the barge desij^ned for the personal use of the Duke and Duchess could not have carried the suite. As M)on as the Hygeia left the Ophir's sides, the thun- ders of a Royal salute, fired by a round dozen of warships, rolled across the bay, each vessel belching out flame and smoke till they themselves, as well as the Ophir and Hygeta, were lost to view in a blue-grey fog of burnt powder. At the same moment there broke all along the shore from ten thousand throats the pent-up cheers of the people massed on the roadways, on stands, balconies, and roofs. The Hygeia emerged again into the brilliant sunshine, and in a couple of minutes she was alongside the pier- head. A gaily decked gangway was run out, and the Duke and Duchess, followed by their suite, stepped ashore. His Royal Highness, sun-tanned and sailor-like wore his rear-admiral's uniform. The Duchess was dressed in black, relieved only by a small button-hole of violets, and carried a bouquet of orchids and violets. Waiting on the pier to bid them welcome was what may be described as a complete representation of the Oreetln^i and Commonwealth— Governors, Premiers, Mi- PresenUtioai. msters, the Presidents of the Legislative 'todies, the heads of the Army and the Navy The Gove. leral. Lord Hopetoun, was there to do the honour. Excellency wore his new Lieutenant- Governor s uniform, with the ribbon of the Order of St. Michael and St. George and the medal of the Royal Victorian Order. With him the Duke and Duchess cordially shook hands. The Lieutenant-Governor, Sir John Madden, the Governor of Queensland, Lord Lam- ington, and the Administrator of Tasmania, Sir John Dodds, were similarly greeted. Then the Governor- General pre- '.d Mr. Barton, Premier of the Common- wealth, and n:s colleagues of the Federal Ministry, and the Lieutenai ^-Governor presented Mr. Peacock, Premier Melbourne 109 of Victoria, and the State Ministers, with ill of whom their Royal Highnesses also shook hands and exchanged a few pleasant words. The guard of honour drawn up on the jetty consisted of 150 men of the Victorian Regiment of the Royal Aus- tralian Artillery, a force whose proud boast it is that man for man it cannot be matched in the Hritish Empire. The average height of the force is 5 ft. 11 in., and as they presented arms to the Duke they certainly cut a < -4l rJtofii f>y firmissioH tif Vr. Atfrrd Prar^e, | Melbourne. Lord Hopetoun ard Mr. Barton walking down at. Kilda Pier to meet their Royal HlgrhnesEcs fine figure in their smart dark blue uniforms and wiiite helmets— the latter forming a line as stniight as if it had been drawn wi'h a rule. Their splendid physiqi e and soldierly bearing caught the Duke's eye in a moment, and after his Royal Highness had inspected the guard, he warmly complimented Lieutenant-Colonel Stanley, iheir commanding officer, upon their appearance. During the few minutes spent on the St. Kilda pier- head, their Royal Highnesses had a foretaste of what no tCbe Queen'0 miBb they subsequently came to regard as one of the most 0«mep» riendi. ^musmg experiences of the tour. Here, as at every other ceremony, every haltine ctfr;n:r^ public appearance, they fo'und themselre! confronted by a small army of feverishly eager and active photographers armed with cameras of eve^- description iXd'"? 'r"* r^PP'"^ ^'^''- ^^-y movement' and attitude for dear l.fe. To this infliction they in time became so accustomed that on more than one occasion they in the most amiable manner vbluntarilv posed for the ubiquitous camera fiend. ' The formal presentations and official welcome were soon over. The great popular ovation in which the heaJ! letL^" ^n r^'" '^''^' ''' J°>-"' =^"d affectionate greeting was still to come. Walking along »he crimson cari^ted jetty, their Royal Highnesses werVmet 2^; by the Mayor and Councillors of St. Kilda, and the Mayor, having said his word of welcome, handed the Duchess a bouquet. sent out by the King for the use of the Imperial Envoys The Popular ""'.^^ '" waiting. Amid the wildlv-enthu- Oratlon. siastic cheers of a huge crowd, the'ir Royal ^r.. «• H'Rhnesses entered it and imn.ediatelv drove off on their triumphal progress through the mag- cfpita" 'Arr'l'' '^T^'^'^.^hronged streets'of VictoT^s cap tal. As the Royal equipage, with its four beautiful horses and its scarlet-coated outriders, dashed away the military escort of khaki-clad Colonials falling into ^kce in front and behind, it became the strikingly gay and gallant centrepiece of the pageant, the gleaming cuirasses and helmets of the aides-de-camp and the nodding whte plumes of other members of the military suite lending^st the touch of brilliance that was needed Seated in the state landau with the Duke and Duches. was Lord Wenlock, as Lord-in-Waiting and Head of the Household. Three other carriages followed. In the first Melbourne MI of these were Lady Mary Lygon, the Hon. Mrs. Derek Keppel, Sir John Anderson, and Sir Donald Wallace ; in the second, Prince Alexander of Teck, Lady Katherine Coke, Major Bor, and Sir Charles Cust ; in the third, Sir Arthur Bigge, the Hon. Derek Keppel, Commander Faussett, and Lieutenant-Colonel Byron. Nothing could have been happier or more appropriate than the composition of the military escort, which con- Unique Bieort. ^'^*^^ °^ ^^^ officers and men representing ' every State in the Commonwealth, and New Zealand as well. It was under the command of Major McLeish, of the Victorian Mounted Rifles, the second in command being Captain Markweh, of New South Wales. The route followed was by the St. Kilda Road to Swanston Street, then by Collins Street to Spring Street, The Drive to ^^^.^^^ "o^th to Bourke Street, west to Melbourne. William Street, south to Collins Street, back to Swanston Street, and so to Go- vernment House, re-crossing Prince's Bridge. The streets were lined by foot soldiers, among whom were represen- tatives of all the States of the Commonwealth. At in- tervals military bands were s: tioned. They played the National Anthem whenever the procession came in sight. Thus " God Save the King " was carried along from point to point, and was the signal for the cheers that the people —so enthralled were they in the spectacle— might almost have forgotten to raise had they not been reminded by the familiar strains. From a military standpoint the procession was at once splendid and unique. It had been rather a grievance with the Australians that the Imperial troops sent out frcm home to take part in the Commonwealth celebra- tions in January had not been allowed to remain for the Duke's visit. But all trace of this disappointment must have vanished from people's minds as the pageant of the state entry swept along, and they watched with pride 113 Vbe Queen*0 misb and gratification the display made by the Australasian troops which formed exclusively the military portion of it As was fittm;,'. all were mounted. Each representative detachment consisted of twenty men with one lieutenant MillUry Pa- ""'' ""'^ non-commissioneH officer. And a geut. gallant show they made. The Victorian Mounted Rifles were in the van, and after them came in order due the New South Wales Mounted Rifles, with red aiglettes and cock-tail feathers, the yueensland Mounted Infantry, hats adorned with prey emu feathers, the South Australian Mounted Rifles, the West Australian Mounted Infantrv, the Tasmanian Mounted Infantry, and the New Zealand Mounted In- fantry, both the last-mentioned with black cock-tail feathers jauntily waving in their hats. After the Royal cortcfre came the naval and military Commandants, the Headquarter Staff Officers, twenty in number, then the New South Wales Field Artillery, with four guns, the Victorian Field Artillery, xvith six guns, the New South Wales Lancers, with pennons fluttering, the Australian Horse, m myrtle green, with the glossiest of black plumes, then more troops from Queensland, South and West Aus- tralia, Tasmania, and New Zealand, belonging to the corps already specified, 700 men of the Victorian Mounted Rifles bringing up the rear. There were in all some 1,400 mounted troops in the procession, while 11,000 infantry were employed in lining the route, including cadets. The spectators in the streets and elsewhere were esti- mated at half a million. For days people had been H»i; « Hiiiion P°"""f^ '"to Melbourne from all parts of Speotaton. the State, and from the most distant quarters of Australasia. They thronged the pavements, they filled capacious stands, they crowded windows, balconies, and roofs, and the earnest enthusiasm manifested everywhere was remarkable. The decorations, public and private, were upon the most lavish scale. Noble arches spanned the leading thoroughfares; flags, streame.s /Melbourne 113 and festoons fluttered from every building ; ingenuity was exhausted in designs and inscriptions of welcome. At the Domain, a charming surprise- for the Duke and Duchess had been prepared by Young AustraUa. On the Youag Autra- ^'°.P^^ °^ *^^ grounds, under the verdant lia'i Waleom*. fohage of the trees, were massed j5,ooo children, who sang the Nati(inal Anthem and an ode of welcome set to the tune of " God liless the Prince of Wales," and brimming over with loyal and patriotic sentiment. Here is one of the verses :— " One joyous song of welcome Resounds from zone to zone, To Great Victoria's Grandson, The Heir to Britain's Throne ! One land, one loyal people, Own Royal Edward's sway. But he approves our crowning Australia's (^ueen of May ! And ever, through our welcome, The echoes stveetly ring : God bless Queen Alexandra : God save our noble King I " At its conclusion the lusty youngsters gave three hurrahs that fairly rent the air, each child waving frantically aloft a tiny Union Jack. Evidently intensely gratitied, the Duke and Duchess repeatedly bowed their acknowledgments. Opposite the gates of Government House, in a special pavilion, were Lady Hopetoun, Lady Lamirigton, Lady Dodds, and Lady Madden. Here, too, the procession was viewed by Sir John Dodds, Rear Admiral Kirchoft", of the German cruiser //rt«srt; Captain Jessen, of the Gromovoi; and Captain Van den Bosch, of the Soord lirabant. On reaching Prince's Bridge, their Royal Highnesses found themselves at the portals oi the city, and here the At the City ^^^y"""' Aldermen, and Councillors were Oate. waiting to welcome them. The brief cere- mony took place under the shadow of a magnificent triumphal arch, erected at a cost of £"3,500. H 114 TCbe Queen's Mtob ii It was in the Roman-Doric style, and its design was symbolical of the Commonwealth. The keystone of the central arch was an acrostolium, or galley prow, repre- senting Australia. On the projecting oars were the names of the six confederated States, and on the prow a lion's head, emblem of Imperialism. On the south side the arch was approached by an arcaded belvedere, while beyond, on either side of the route leading to the city, were coupled columns, ten in number, and of the same proportion? as those forming part of the arch, each bearing a golden tripod and brazier. On six of the columns were inscribed the names of the States of the Commonwealth. The remaining four, as a sort of delicate hint, were dedicated to the Colonies which had not yet joined the movement ; indeed, two of them were in a remote degree potential. The four were New- Zealand, New Hebrides, Central Australia, and a possible second Queensland. On the entablature of the arch on one side was the city's motto, " Vires Acquirit Eundo." Tablets over the side arches bore the legends, " The City Hails Her Monarch's Son " and " The Wattle Gri-ets the Rose of York." On the north side were the mottoes, " Dieti et and Tennyson's Imperial aspiration, " One Life, One Flag, One Fleet, One Throne." Beneath this arch the Royal carriage halted, and the Mayor, stepping forward, offered to their Royal High- nesses, in the name of the city, a hearty and loyal welcome. The Duke's reply was his first public utter- ance on landing ■ Australia. There was to be abundant opportunity for oratory later, so His Royal Highness simply said—" Thank you, Mr. Mayor and the citizens of Melbourne, for the very kind welcome that you offer to the Duchess and myself. I only wish to say how delighted I am to find myself again in your beautiful city, of which I have such very pleasant recollections when I visited it twenty years ago." Tha Wattle Oreeti tha Rota. Mon Droit iDelbourne ,,3 Passi,,^^ on amid renewed outbnrsts of cheerinL^ the pr -cession swept up Swanston Street and under the l«B««fth« '^'"S^ ^f^^< a graceful structure richly Ar«hM. upholstered in cardinal vdvct. relieved , '^°^''^' •-''■'"'ne. The two central piers the cor°""'1 '^ '""'^"■'^ «°'^ "«^-' -'« ^"PPorred the collar, pendant, and star of the King's four grelt Melbourne. The King'* Arch national orders, the Garter, Thistle, Bath, and St. Patrick Under the Royal Arms in the central spandrel was the mscnpfon "Edward VII.," and in gold'shrines on he piers were l.fe-s.ze portraits of the King and Queen Over the side arches were written. '< God Save the King" and "Long May He keign." The next a ch under wh.ch the procession pass'ed was the gUn Arch, _m Colhns Street. Its design was in fanciful H 2 ii6 tlbe Qtteen'0 TOtob semblance of a Rreat Imperial crown. On the summit, under a golden canopy supporting the Imfterial diadem, was a Kilt statue of Queen Victoria wreathed with white immortelles. The mottoes on the spandrels were— " N'ictoria, Queen and Empress," " He loveil by all Nations," "Her Court was Pure, Her Life Serene," "God Gave Her Peace, Her Land Reposed," " She Wrought Her People Lasting Good." The cost of this arch was £1,^00. In Bourke Street was the Citizens' Arch, a single circular span flanked by square towers which terminated in bronze cupolas at a height of sixty feet. The inscrip- tion here was, "Citizens Welcome the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York." On the towers were portraits of the King, Queen, Duke, and Duchess, and the arms of the Federated States. As the procession recrossed Swanston Street the Royal visitors caught a glimpse of the Chinese Arch, which was not on the route, but under which their Royal Highnesses were to pass a few days later on their way to the review. It was in the familiar style of the old willow-pattern plate, with up- curved red-tiled roofs above an open-air pagoda, where, amid costly decorations of Chinese silk, Celestial musicians were stationed. Next came the Duke's Arch, just before the Post Office was reached, in Bourke Street. The scheme of TheDuke'i ^^'^ ^^^^' ^PP'"' l^'^'tt^ly. ^^^s nautical. Arch. The single span, flanked by two massive towers, was richly dt-corated with peacock blue, indigo, verditer, and deep emerald velvet, relieved by orange lining and illuminated by gold tracery. The spandrel was surmounted by a model of a warship, arranged on "theatrical "water, so that an adjustment of pendulums gave motion to the waves and a rolling and pitching action to the ship. This was no doubt kindly meant, but the rolling and pitching action is one which the most seasoned sailors gladly dispense with. V Aclbourne "7 NVptiino had Iwen most in.lul>;i'nt to thf Royal traveller!i on the outward voyafie, but thire wa« plenty of rolling and pitching to comt- Iwfore the white cliffs of Old England were seen af,'ain, so the " practicable " man-of- war was prophetic after all. The Itfjen.! on the arch was " Long Life to the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York." The procession re-entered Collins Street by passing imder the Hutter Arch, composed of some riiiiro ty frrmiul,,,, „f SUurs. K»r* »nrf \o„. I„,i/.ii.] Melbourne. The Quccii'i Arch eight thousand biittt-r boxes, representing the daily output of the dairy industry in Victoria. The design was that of an old Norman gateway, flanked by square embattled towers and overhung by a covered' bridge, decorated with the shields of the six confederated States surrounding the Royal Arms. At the Town Hall the crush of people in the street was greatest. No such crowds had ever been seen in Melbourne before. But there wac- no pushing or Its tTbe a^neen'f mub horiwplay. The order ever> where was mo.t noteworthy. OaPwIteMit " *** °" Parliament H.-use step*, how- iMNMcpt. ^vt'; that the most representative and .k . ^ fashionable crowd was collected. Two housand Government guests assembled there had. since the landmg been joined by the Ministers who Uxyk part •n the reception at St. Kilda. and had arrived by a short cut Practically all the members of the Federal and Victorian Parliaments were there, as were also the judRes of the various States and the men of light and leading •n every profession. The Duke and Duchess bowed repeatedly m respr.nse to the cheering from this dis- nnguished u„d important gathering, and must have been gratified by its hearty sincerity. Not the least grateful greeting was that of the German citi/ens, who had erected a beautiful arch in Collins AO«rf«u ''i*'*'^"'- 't f«'''"fd a triple carriage-way, OrMUal. "»e central one being flanked bv two loftv Corinthian columnscrownedhv the German Imperml eagle and tricolour. The frieze connecting hem bore on one side the legend "Peace and G,Kxhvi!l to Lnited Australia,' and on the other the singularlv appropr...te line from Schiller- IlVr wolU,, sein J, ctnztg \olk von Bruedcrn-" \\'e wish to be a single nation of brethren." Giving further expression to the same fraternal sentiment was the following inscription over the side arches. <• The German Citizens Hail the Commonwealth." Suspended from the frieze of the central arch was an allegorical- painting by Herr Peter Hansen, of the Royal Academy. Munich, depicting Germany, as a messenger of peace, crowning the six federated sisters with olive wreaths. On the rever e was the German Imperial flag, with its motto, Goit mit urn, and the date of German foderation-1870. At the base of the columns were busts of the Emperor and f::r.r\ '"'■"^"""^^^ ^y trophies of the Union Jack and the Australian ensign. There were also Danish and Aelboume 119 NorweRinn saliitations on a smaller srnlc. Indeed, there was only one notable abstensinn amoriK these fraternal expressions of goodwill. The I'rench have lar^e shipping and mercantile interests in Australia, but they held aloof both officially and privately. There was no I'rench war- ship among those of friimdly nations in the harbour, nor was any word of welcome visible in the French tongue. Of the efforts of priv-ite citizens and the decorative /•*»* ty ffr ^frttrr. Verk alti Situ, /.flnJoH.} MalbovriM. Th« ChlncM Arch results I must content myself with saying that they were lavish and in excellent taste. The handsome fa9ades of the newspaper offices, the banks, the insurance and steamship companies, the hotels, the Stock Exchange, and the premises of .ill the leading firms were gay with bunting and patriotic mottoes, and the humblest citizen had hang out his flag or bit of bunting to show his loyalty. A Royal salute was fired as the Royal visitors entered I20 XCbe Queen's TiQifsb ' Government House. They had made a truly Imperial ATrnlyRoy»l P'""^'"®^^ through the broad, imposing PMgreu. streets of a great, a beautiful, a prosperous a"d a munificent citv which, as an admir- able writer in the "Argus" pointed out next day, was threescore and ten years ago, the allotted span of man's hfe, "the huntmg ground of the savage, the home of the wombat and the dingo." With regard to the crowds, as I have said, nothing like them had ever been seen in /•*../,. ;i.v A" ''^^^^!«Tf^!?^^!!^!!^!!l^!S^ Melbourne. The Qerman Arch Australia before. The railways in the course of the das- brought into the city and conveved home again 3/5.OO0 passengers. The notice, "Keep to the Rijrht " posted at every street corner, was generally observed, bc.tl, .„ the dayfme and by the crowds viewing the iUu- muiations at night, an.l the result was an orderliness and decorum wh.ch could not have been surpassed in London or any other European capital. A state dinner was given at Government House, when /Melbourne 121 4 the principal guests were Admiral Beaumont, Sir John \f adden, Lieutenant-Governor of \'ictoria ; Stote Banqnet Lord Lamington, Governor of yueens- iand ; Sir John Dodds, Administrator of the Government of Tasmania; Mr. Barton, Prime Minister of Australia, and Mrs. Barton ; Mr. Peacock, Premier of \'ictoria, and Mrs. Peacock; Lady Madden, Lady Lamington, Lady Dodds, Rear-Admiral Remy, of the United States cruiser Brooklyn ; Rear-Admiral Kirchoff, of the German cruiser Hansa; Captain Jessen, of the Russian cruiser Gromovoi, and Madame Jessen; Captain van den Bosch, of the Dutch cruiser Noord Brabant; Mr. W. M'Culloch, Minister of Public Works and Chairman of the Celebrations Com- mittee; and Miss Madden. In the evening the city was splendidly illuminated. A radiant welcome beamed from domes, arches, towers, and facades, and innumerable iridescent mottoes flashed out kindly greeting. Traffic was suspended, and till far on in the night the streets were thronged with eager and happy sightsi-ers. The chief event of the second day in Melbourne was a levee at Government House. Like all the succeeding The Levee. ^""^^'°"s in Australasia, it was thoroughly democratic in character, being open to any citizen who chose to present himself in a clean shirt and decent evening dress suit. Close upon four thousand gentlemen attended, and with every one the Duke shook hands. The levee was held in the Ballroom— redecorated for the occasion— the same hall concerning which, twenty years before. Prince George remarked in his diary that it was i8 feet longer than the Ballroom at Buckingham Palace. The Duke, in admiral's uniform, stood on a dais, his suite extended on either side in a semicircle, and the Governor and Lieutenant-Governor standing near. The Duchess and the Countess of Hopetoun, though of course not official!)- present, had a peep at the ceremony from a balcony. i ,jA 133 ^e Qtteen'0 mm To shake hands with four thousand lusty and cordially friendly visitors in one morning was no light task, and ^jg^ twice the Duke was fain to pause for a Hud-lbckai. moment to stretch and chafe his half- ♦i. * (. u ,. ""'"''^^ fingers. It was suggested to him that he should take an interval of rest, but he laughingly replied that he would " see it through." and he did. Next day he was asked by a member of the suite whether his arm did not ache, and the question elicited the curious confession that while the left arm was stiff and rather sore the right bore no trace at all of the unusual strain. The levee lasted two hours. The Ministers, Judges, Senators, Members of the House of Representatives. Members of the Legislative Council, Members of the Legislative As- sembly, the Bishops and representatives of the various ecclesiastical bodies, the Naval and Military officers, the l-oreign Consuls, took precedence, gaining admission by a private entree, and the general public following. Prior to the levee, the members of t' i Municipal Association of Victoria assembled in Fountain Court, transformed into a decorated temporary annexe, and pre- sented the Duke with a joint address of welcome sub- scribed by 205 local governing bodies. The address itself, which was signed by every Couiicillor in Victoria, formed tne hrst page of a handsome volume filled with views of local scenes. Immediately after the levee His Royal Highness received in the Ballroom forty- seven more addresses from public bodies, the representative character of which may be gathered from a glance at the following list :-The Mayor and Corporation of the City of Melbourne; the Mayor and Aldermen of Geelong ; the bishops, clergy, and laity of the Diocese of Melbourne and Ballara?^ the Catholic Hierarchy of the Diocese of Victoria ; The Pres- byterian Church of Victoria; The Baptist Union of Victoria; the Congregational Churches of Victoria; the Methodist Churches of Victoria ; the Jewish Community AddNuea. Aelbourn "3 of Victoria; the Corporation and Citizens of the City of Ballarat ; the Mayor and Councillors of the City of Fitz- roy ; the Melbourne Harbour Trust; The Melbourne and Metropolitan Board of Works; the Royal Humane So- ciety; Victorian Institute of Architects; Royal Yacht Club of Victoria; Melbourne Chamber of Commerce; Melbourne Chamber of Manufactures ; Chamber of Mines of Victoria; Geological Society of Victoria; Public Li- brary, Museum, and National Gallery of Victoria; British xMedical Association (Victorian Branch) ; Medical Society of Victoria; Free and Accepted Masons of Victoria- Manchester Unity I.O. Oddfellows ; United Ancient Order ot Druids; Australian Natives' Association ; United Com- mercial Travellers' Association; Friendly Societies of Victoria; Old Colonists' Association of Victoria; Water- works and Irrigation Association; Imperial Federation League of Victoria; Cambrian Society of Victoria- Li- censed Victuallers' Association of Australia; Temperance Organisations of the Commonwealth; Salvation Army in Australasia; Loyal Orange Institution of Australia ; Amal- gamated Miners' Association of Victoria; Society of Accountants and Auditors (Victorian division) ; Victorian Cornish Association; Cornishmen of Ballarat district; Mining Board of Ballarat district ; Australasian Y.M.C.A. Council; Pioneers and Old Residents Association of Castlemaine; the Indian Community of the State of Victoria. These addresses were taken as read, and the Duke made his reply to them collectively. Speaking ■-> clear resonant tones. His Royal Highness said :— " Gentleman,— It is with the utmost pleasure that I have received your loyal and dutiful addresses, and I accept with smcere satisfaction the assurances which they con- ^in of your unswerving devotion and attachment to the Throne and person of His Majesty the King, mv dear father, to whom I shall make known without del'a 'he sentiments to which you have given expression. I am 124 tCbe aineen'0 MfBb J deeply touched by your references to the mournful event which has so recently plunged the whole Empire into grief and mourning, the death of my beloved and revered grandmother the Queen. Her Majesty's great qualities and wise rule have proved an inestimable blessing to the people over whom she reigned for over half a century, and have left a noble example to her successors for all time I thank you for the good wishes for the health and happi-' ness of the Duchess of Cornwall and York and myself which your addresses contain. I regret that the short space of time at our disposal will prevent us from becom- ing as well acquainted as we should wish with the interior districts of this favoured land. I join with you in the hope that the journey which we have undertaken may not only be fraught with much pleasure and interest to our- selves, but may also have the effect of promoting in no small degree the unity and solidarity of the King's dominions, .he happiness which I enjoyed during my former visit to Australia in company with my dear brother is ever fresh m my memory. I rejoice to find myself amongst you again, and that on this occasion the Duchess accompanies me. I wish to take this opportunity of assuring you how truly our hearts have been moved by the splendid and enthusiastic reception accorded to us on our entry yester- day into this city— an outward testimony, indeed, of that loyalty and devotion to the Throne to which your addresses have given such unfailing expression. It is my earnest prayer that Divine Providence may be with the people of Australia in all their undertakings." In the afternoon the Duchess witnessed in Govern- ment House grounds a most interesting display, typical of Stoekmen's ^"stralian bush lire. Two hundred stock- Ditplay. men, organised for the occasion by Mr. James Kirk Jennings, a well known stock and station agent, and brought from all parts of the State gave an exhibition of rough riding and stock-whip crack- mg. The men, who had previously marched in procession Aelbonrne "5 Pkot9 by permission e*^ Mnsrs. York auti Son, J.oH(icn,\ Melbourne. The Chlncee ProceMlon In Collln« 5Ucet 1' ia6 Vbe atueen'0 Tnii0b f / woTe^RohR <=ity. cracking their whips and "cooeeing" wore Ro|, Roy tartan suirts. white moleskin trouseTSk wie.der^1theiLr,d/^L"r^^ utTTB 'T^''' two of the principal Wormitd't^ nderf S rr^lT^"^ '' *»»« skill with'^hicMht Th!n i ^^'^ buck-jumpers selected for the show The Duchess was subsequently presented with a sto^k whTn Her R?? » °1*'^ °^^^^'°"' '" -mplian e wi h a^ii ^ Her Royal Highness had herself expressed Thf n b rhSl V ''V. accompanied by Sir Arthur BiL s^r Hrjj^r^p=fj7-:t.it^£5 bv a Chfr'"'''"' °^*''" ^^"^ ^^y ^^'^ also diversified but ifwat /n'.n ""^^'«.*° witness this demonstration at sL^po^r'ATt^*^^^^^^ *° *'^ ^"« ^h'^^ h^d seen chief guests were th J r "f ' '" '^" ^^^"'"g. the LaminS Te r ^°'"''"°'-,'>f Queensland and Lady Lady Tennyson th^r"""" °^^°"*'^ ^"^^^^''^ ^nd Lady Lawlev Si rf """"/ '^'''''" ^"^^^^lia and Mrs. Alfr^DeS ; U i'^.f"^ ^"^^^ ^>'«h. Mr/ and Lyne.Senlr and Srs D^^^^^^ Sen' t'''"'^.;' "'^ '''•"'^"' and Janet Lady Clarke ^^^^torand Mrs. O'Connor. CovllerLre-nSaiS'ltltr ^"^^^^^^ ''^ Exhibition Buildings thr ^^^ conversazione in cwa„.„rs:et„"s,--s;ri: Aelbourne 137 I // 138 Vbe attteett'0 mtBh t flMnn was also a procession of Fire Brigades, in which 1,664 members of these splendid organisations, carrying torches, took part, with fifteen bands and eight engines. After marching through the streets, they paraded in front of Government House, and their display was witnessed for a few minutes by the Duke and Duchess from the portico. The firemen sang " God save the King." and cheered themselves hoarse m honour of the Royal visitors. Wednesday, May 8. the third day of the Royal visit was less crowded with, engagements of an exacting char- acter than the first two, and the Duke and Duchess were enabled to enjoy a little comparative repose before the great ceremony which claimed them on the following mormng. Three functions, however, each with a verv special interest of its own, figured in the day's programme. At noon the Duke presented war medals to over five hundred returned troopers. The occasion was all the BMkfre.tk. ""ofe noteworthy that these were the first War-800 '"~*" ever received by Victorians for Mcdftli. active service, while this was also the first ff i«ir • °PP°'^""'*>' H's Royal Highness had here ot tulfiUmg in by no means the least important particular, the Queens wish. The ceremony took place in the grounds of Government House. The soldiers were pa- raded under command of Colonel Tom Price, of the Vic- torian Mounted Rifles, and marched to Government House headed by the band of the Royal Australian Artil- d'«' ^ TI!.? *^^ regimental tune of the Victorian Mounted Rifles- The Old Brown Pants." There was a guard of honour furnished by Tasmanian troops, and among those present, m addition to the suite and other members of the Royal party, were Sir John Forrest. Minister of Defence for the Commonwealth, and Mr. M'CuUoch, late Minister ot Defence for Victoria. A table covered with the Union Jack was placed on the broad gravel carriage-drive in front of the portico. Aelbonrne 139 and to this the Duke, wearing the uniform of a colonel of the Royal Fusiliers, advanced, attended by the military members of his suite. The returned troopers presented a somewhat motley appearance, as they were in the uniforms of their respective regiments. Every corps in the State of Victoria was represented. The khaki uniforms which the majority wore were interspersed with the blue and white of the Artillery, the red tunic of the Engineers, and the distinctive facings or headgear of the various con- tingents. There was a Highlarder in kilts, a " gentleman in blue " in his policeman's uniform, and, most curious of all, perhaps— if anything of the sort could ever be con- sidered curious in this land of loyal fighting men— one of the servants of Government House, who had fought with the Imperial Yeomanry, and who stepped up to receive his medal in the long scarlet coat and top hat of an outrider to the Royal carriage. The first name called was that of Commander W J Colquhoun, D.S.O., of the Commonwealth Navy. After him came Colonel Hoad, C.M.G., A.A.G., representing the Headquarter Staff, and Colonel Price, C.B., of the Victorian Mounted Rifles, he being the first of the regi- mental officers to receive his decoration. Among the officers who followed were several who had earned the D.S.O., and a conspicuous figure, in his clerical garb, was that of Chaplain M'Bain. When all who advanced to the table, one or two still limping from wounds, had received their medals, there Weoaded ^^®'"® '^^* ^^^*^^ °" ^^^"^ ^t the edge of Heroci. the lawn three crippled men, one minus a leg, who had remained to the last. These were Troopers Frank Bird, G. W. Wilkins, and H. Bush. The first-mentioned, who was one of the Imperial Bush- men, lost his leg in the defence of Eland's River, the shell which wounded him killing a comrade ; the second, Wilkins, had his horse shot under him and sustained severe internal injuries at Vent River; and the third, I 130 Qbe aiitecn'0 mtab Bush, was shot through the knee at Pink HiU. This gallant trio, though last, were by no means least in the attention they received. The Duke and Duchess con- versed for several minutes with each of them, making all sorts of sympathetic enquiries as to their wounds and future prospects, and cordially shaking hands with them. The second function was a State reception at Parlia- ment House— and I ought to explain here that the word •riUiulltato "^^^*^" **'<* ""* '"ip'y any Court cere- ■•MftlM. "lonial. but simply that the entertainment was given by the State of Victoria. There were 2,500 guests, including all the leading men in Fe- deral and State politics, the State Governors, the naval and military officers, and the sommites of the social, pro- fessional, and official world. Assembled on the broad steps of Parliament House, they awaited the arrival of the Royal visitors, who drove up at three o'clock with their dashing Colonial escort. The welcome accorded theni was spontaneous and enthusiastic. Lord and Lady Hopetoun, who accompanied them, were also received with marked cordiality ; indeed, it was easy to see at all their public appearances that they are tremendously popular in Victoria. At the foot of the steps their Royal High- nesses were met by Sir John and Lady Madden, who pre- sented Mrs. Peacock, wife of the Premier, Mrs. Mason, wife of the Speaker of the Legislative Assembly, Mrs. Gil- lott, wife of the Mayor, Lady Wrixon, and Miss M'Cul- loch, who were acting as a Ladies' Reception Committee. Mounting the steps, their Royal Highnesses entered the Parliament Buildings, passing through the Queen's Hall, in the middle of which is a marble statue of Queen Vic- toria, while the walls are adorned with life-size portraits of the late Queen and Prince Albert, and thence into the HI to i U< Library. Here Mr. Mason, Speaker of the tupe«. Legislative Assembly, produced a visitors' book signed by all the members of the Federation Convention. To this historic collection of Aelbonme »3i signatures the Duke and Duchess added their names, his Royal Highness signing "George," and the Duchess " Victoria Mary." Mr. Mason then presented his ill as- trious guests with the pens they had used, together with a paper knife. These were made of fiddleback blackwood, from Gippsland, mounted in gold, and bore the name of each recipient. Followed by the entire company, their Royal High- nesses passed out on to the lawn, where the entertain- ment took the form of a garden party. The band of the Pkf tji/frmtu/tH tfHlnm. Vrk miul *.«. l.,»Am.\ MalkoanM. CHy Arch Hlaalaatcd Ophir played a selection of music, and refreshments were served in marquees. The proceedings were quite informal, and several ladies and gentlemen, as opportunity offered, were presented. One member of the Queensland Parlia- ment introduced himself and his family. In the course of the afternoon the Duke congratulated the Federal Premier, Mr. liarton, upon the brilliant success which had so far attended the festivities. Their Royal High- nesses were shown the new mace that was to be the emblem of the Speaker's authority in the Federal I 2 tja Vbe Qttcen'f VDM) ? Parliament. It was an exact replica of the mace which adorni the table of the British House of Commons. The Duke examined it with great interest, and lifted it to feel its weight. The ball-room of Government House has been the scene of many brilliant and successful gatherings, but A OMftt K never had it contained so interesting or so lagateeveni- deeply-interested an assembly as that by ■MtlMss. which it was thronged at the evening recpption on May 8. The occasion was rightly regarded as historic, and thiMigh the Court was in mourning, the aspect was far less sombre than might have been expected, for the black and white dresses of the ladies were relieved by the glirtering uniforms of the various Governors, of the Royal suite, the British and foreign milit;*ry and naval officers, the Consuls, and even of the Premiers and Ministers, wh-i had so far overcome the democratic prejudices which are mort or less inherent in all the Colonii -; as to appear in the garb of old-world cuurti. rs. Mr. Barton, the Federal Premier, Sir John Forrest. Sir George Turner, and several others had clothed their portly figures in coats covered with gold lace, the continuations being white silk knee breeches and white silk stockings; and in this magnificent raiment they throughout the evening received the admiring con- gratulations of their friends, which, sooth to say, were not altogether free from a certain tinge of quizzical criticism. Among the ladies, again, "what to wear" in the presence of Royalty had naturally enough been a burning- topir «f discussion, and it was thought the problem I ad b' i» solved by a fiat from official quarters to the effect that the correct attire on this occasion woiild be h./i mouriing, save in the case of " very young girls," who were per- mitted to wear white. With that licence in regard to all question of the flight of years whicli is ■- le peculiar pre- rogative of Eve'< daughters, this ii 'in- ition had been interpreted in no niggardly spirit and tin re; were certainly iBclbourne •33 a Rood many very pretty white frocks and gowns at Co- vernnient House that evening. Whether all the fascinating weareri rejoiced in the qualification imposed by the ofltcial mentor, 'twere perhaps ungallan itd unmannerly to en- quire. The result, at any rate, .vas to lighten appre- ciably the dominant note of black, und all were happy. The guests, numbering 2,500, hailed rr;ed few. So circums< . ibed, it would have lost much of its meaning. Those who planned it did so upon a scale un- exampled in Parliamentary annals. The people at lar^je in their thousands were enabled to participate not merely n a passing street pageant, as would probably have been the case in the old world, but in the ;;reat solemnity itself, 134 Vbe (llueen'0 Mfab :■ f the inauguration of the duly constituted Legislative As- sembly of a newly consolidated nation. From this point of view, the mise-en-scene was superb. No more suitable auditorium for such an epoch-making Inpwb **^*® ceremony could well have been found MiM-ca-leia*. **ia" the vast cruciform building erected more than twenty years ago for Australia's hrst great mternational exhibition, and subsequently en- larged for the Centenary Celebrations of 1888. It was in this very building that Prince George had been welcomed as a " middy " a couple of decades before. But neither it nor any other single edifice in Australia had ever held such an assemblage as flocked hither to-day. The immense hall began to fill as soon as the doors were opened at nine clock, and crowds of people continued to pour through the various portals in a ceaseless stream until, long before eleven, every seat, except a few reserved for the principal actors in the momentous scene of the day, was occupied. 1 have seen many great and august assemblies, but never any that impressed the imagination more than this. It was impossible not to feel that one was here face to face In An|ut y'*^ ^ p^ ople who knew themselves to be Ancmbly. indeed and in truth a new nation, virile, confident, strong in the pride of race, preg- nant with lofty aspirations, and endowed with resources and potentialities which the future historian alone could attempt to estimate. In spirit and demeanour it was more like a vast congregation than a political gathering. In the mam body there was nothing to denote municipal, administrative, social, academic, or professional rank. \Vith few exceptions, everyone was in morning dress. This was in accordance with the desire of those in high places who were responsible for the ordering of such mat- ters. Mayors, town clerks, and others possessing robes of office had wondered whether they ought not to wear them on this occasion of the highest state, but they had been requested to follow the example which would /Delbourne »35 be set by the members of the Commonwealth Parliament themselves by appearing without exception in simple morning attire. Yet one knew that these thousands of quiet, undemonstrative citizens, who were ■MTtftUTeu^M. passing as sedately to their places in that huge auditorium as they might do at Divine service on a Sunday morning, were in the highest degree representative of the free political institutions of which the Commonwealth Parliament about to be inaugurated was the most exalted expression. I have said that in the t'ha'tt ty ftrtmrsicH a/ Mtisrt. H'rst aitti SaH, in«/Ai*ii.| Melbourne. ExhlMtton Buildlnt. In which the Federal Parlhinent was opened matter of official robes there were some exceptions. The Speakers wore full-bottomed wigs and silk gowns, the exact c<-untcrpart of those which symbolise the dignity of the Chair in the British House of Commons. Several Judges were conspicuous in the nd robes and horse-hair wigs of the Judicial Bench, one or two Bishops appeared in their episcopal vestments, and here and there a splash of rich colour, red, blue, and gold, was furnished by a group of naval and military officers. There were staff officers in .( 1 .1 136 TTbe Queen's Misb I i khaki, ami bustlinfr officials hurried to and fro in court dress or other uniforms. The ladies, who seemed to form the majority of the audience, were nearly all in half mournmfr, and, though many were dressed entirely in black, some scores of mauve hats or bodices and numerous white OS rich-feather boas redeemed the general effect from wull uniformity. On the south side was the Royal dais. Range,! across It was a row of chairs of state, graduated in size, the largest 5he Royal Oai'.. """' '^''"*''''»' ""^" ^''-■'"f? » high-backed / relatives of the Commonwealth Ministers and members of the Commonwealth Parliament, and a grand orchestra • while the rest of the enormous area, the galleries, and the organ loft were packed in every corner with a well dressed earnest and expectant public. Overhead and in front of the galleries were flags, trophies, and festoons, and from each corner of the spacious dome wr.ved the Royal Stan- dard. \\ hat impressed one most of -11, houever, in the interval of waiting, was the great silent sea of absorbed and Aelbonrne 137 ;< 4 138 Ube aiueen'0 Misb attentive faces, young and old, bent in tense anticipation upon the still vacant dais. At eleven o'clock ImpnwlTtMH. ^^® massed orchestras began a programme of operatic selections to while away the time. Soon afterwards, members of the suite not taking part in the procession and officers of the Vice-regal Household commenced to arrive, taking their places on the platform behind the chairs of state. At 11.54 * preliminary formality was gone through. The Clerk of Parliaments, Mr. E. G. Blackmore, read to the Senate the Royal Proclamation convoking the Federal Assembly. A similar duty was meanwhile being performed in "another place" by the Clerk of the House of Representatives, which had met in the western annexe of the building, and was there awaiting the Royal summons. Noon had just struck, when military bands outside playing the National Anthem, and a fanfare of trumpets at the main entrance, announced the arrival of the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall — already heralded by the booming of artillery and the sound of distant cheering. Their Royal Highnesses entered a few moments later from behind the dais, to which they were conducted amid the rousing strains of ''God Save the King," sung by the entire congregation, led by the orchestra and a choir of professional artists. The Duke wore his rear-admiral's uniform, the ribbon of the Garter, and Orders, while the Duchess was in black, with a black sequin toque, and the white ribbon of the Royal Victorian Order, worn sash-wise. His Royal Highness took his stand well forward upon the dais, having the Countess of Hopetoun on his right hand. The Duchess stood in line, slightly apart, with the Governor-General on her left. The Duke, mid breathless silence, through the Clerk of Parliaments, directed the Usher of the Black Rod to acquaint the House of Repre- sentatives that His Royal Highness, autho- rised by virtue of His Majesty's Commission, in the phrase BnmmoM to "Th« HouM." /l)elbournc »39 ^^^^^^^^n£^--" m ■ 1 ' i^ ■ *•__ **^.* — i -4- ■4 ■^- ' l^-/l^'/ ^, ^' . .: El b~_^ 1 > /' I :• . .■*-^*^ i\' y n '/^4 J V .,.,■-«'• • -•■;»■ \ K X ■1 ?\ / J, ri , / \ ' > ^' .{-' : ^ 1 7 '/ ^•* ■« ■ ■ V , ( 4 ' \ ■ ^'i\ f ■i ;• ^x^- . V % . . ^^l./ 'v N •■ ' . ■ \* -:'r ' . \ -,;\' i:^^^^ 1 i^ '"' ^ '^— -'-'^ V:;^ L^ ^ , \ UB^ ■4 1 .^^^^^"^"^ ; ^^ ^ 1 *.-.•!♦ iV^ Malbonrnc. Opcnlar of the Federal Parliament. The ProceMion In Bourke Street I40 tCbe Clueen'0 mtdb /, ! iJ t It ? of traditional Parliamentary usage, " desired " the imme- diate attendance of that honourable House to hear His Majesty's Commission read. The annexe was some dis- tance off, and a minute or two elapsed before the members of the Lower House, with the Premier, Mr. Barton, at their head, filed into their places, the Duke and Duchess, to- gether with the entire audience, meanwhile remaining upstanding. The grand familiar " Old Hundredth " was then sung. How its rich melody rang through that crowded amphitheatre ! And how solemn was the hush that fell upon the assembly as its stirring cadences died away ! All were still under the spell of that matchless invocation when the voice of the Governor-General was heard uplifted in prayer. Australia has no State Church, so At the Thnmc ^'^^'^ Hopetoun had himself undertaken the of OnMc ^"*y °f reading the appointed devotions. No one could hav^ read them more im- pressively. The Divine blessing was invoked upon King Edward, Queen Alexandra, the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York, and all the other members of the Royal Family, upon " the people of this land, now united in one Commonwealth," together with the Governor- General, the Governors of the States, "and all who are or who shall be associated with them in the administration of their several offices," and, finally, a special blessing was besought " upon the Federal Parliament now assembling for their first session." Then followed the l,ord's Prayer and the Benediction. The Royal Letters Patent em- powering the Duke in His Majesty's name "to do or cause to be done all things necessary to the holding of this Parliament " having been read by the Clerk, the Duke de- livered the King's Message. His Royal Highness said :-- "Gentlemen of the Senate, and "Gentlemen of the House of Representatives,— " My beloved and deeply-lamented grandmother, Queen Victoria, had desired to mark the importance of the /l>eU>ottrne 141 " I H I Iipi m,; LH ^n^ail 143 Vbe dtttcen's mitb h YhmWlmt% opening of this the first Parliament of the Commonwealth of Australia, and to manifest her special interest in all that concerns the welfare of her loyal subjects in Australia, by granting to nie a special Commission to open the first session. " That Commission had been duly signed before the sad event which has plunged the whole Empire into mourning, and the King, my dear father, fully sharing Her late Majesty's wishes, decided to give effect to them, although His Majesty stated on the occasion of his open- ing his first Parliament that a separation from his son at such a time could not be otherwise than deeply painful to him. " His Majesty has been pleased to consent to this sepa- ration, moved by his sense of the loyalty and devotion which prompted the generous aid afforded by alJ the Colonies in the South African war, both in its earlier and mere recent stages, and of the splendid bravery of the Colonial troops. It is also His Majesty's wish to acknow- ledge the readiness with which ,the ships of the special Australasian Squadron were placed at his disposal for service in China, and the valuable assistance rendered there by the naval contingents of the several colonies. " His Majesty further desired in this way to testify to his heartfelt gratitude for the warm sympathy extended by every part of his dominions to himself and his family in the irreparable loss they have sustained by the death of his beloved mother. " His Majesty has watched with the deepest interest the social and material progress made by his people in Australia, and has seen with thankfulness and heartfelt satisfaction the completion of that political union of which this Parliament is the embodiment. " The King is satisfied that the wisdom and patriotism which have characterised the exercise of the wide powers of self-government hitherto enjoyed by the Colonies will continue to be displayed in the exercise of the still wider mum iBelDonrnc Hi powers with which the united Commonwealth has been endowed. His Majesty feels assured that the enjoy- ment of these powers will, if possible, enhance that loyalty and devotion to his Throne and Empire of which the people of Australia have already given such signal proofs. " It is His Majesty's earnest prayer that this union so happily achieved may, under God's blessing, prove an instrument for still further promoting the welfare and advancement of his subjects in Australia, and for the strengthening and consolidation of his Empire. "Gentlemen of The Senate, and "Gentlemen of the House of Representatives,— " It affords me much pleasure to convey to you this Message from His Majesty. I now, in his name, and on his behalf, declare this Parliament open." As His Royal Highness pronounced the words, "declare this Parliament open," the Duchess touched WlaOdat Um ^^^ golden button on the table before her ■w^Imh, with a key of the same precious metal, and the news was thereby automatically flashed round the globe. Cheers rang loud and long from twelve thousand loyal throats, trumpets blared, and above all this mighty din, the thunder of cannon could be heard proclaiming to the city and the suburbs beyond that the great ceremony — the culmination of so much thought and laborious striving, the realisation of the dreams of more than half a century — was at last a fait accompli. When the outburst had somewhat subsided, the Duke stepped forward again, and there was instant silence. T«I««nuB from ^** Royal Highness had another message the Kia<. to deliver. He intimated that he had just received a telegram from his father, and, raising his voice so that as many thousands as possible ^1^ «44 Zbe dlneen'f mitb i I, i i might hear, h 'ead the King- Emperor's greeting, which was in the fuii.e«rt. ^^'"'sters in the Exhibition Building. The ^ .„ ^^"« o' the morning was practically re- constituted, illumined, however, by a bla^e of electricity instead of fitful gleams of sunshine, while the audience of course, was in evening instead of morning dress. The Royal party arrived at a quarter-past nine, missing the first portion of the programme, which was orch^tral. but in time for the vocal numbers, to which they lis- tened with interest and evident pleasure, frequently im 146 Zbe ^Mcn'9 must) I n leading the apptauftc. render«jd — The following proRramme was 8 p.m. I. OVKRTl'RK Kntm'actk* SaLBCTKIN . 8*LTAI(t(.LO MlNUKT HALLkT MVN March 9.13 p m. • Merry Wive* of Windtor ' KuMmuBile " "MiliAdo" ■Sylvia -. -I^ I'rophiit*' ••Co»l Save the King" StNGERS ANI' OKCHESTPA. I. OvBKTrmt " Ri';iiii " . • • ORCHl STRA. a. HvMN " Ausir.ilia" . Madame NKI.Lil- STEWART 3. yt'AKTBTTE " I'n di St l;e« " ( ' KigolettO •) Madame SL \l'(Jl FSK!, Madame JANSON Signer UMUERTO SAI.VI, r,n<\ Mr. I.KMI'KIKKt 4. RtCITATir BT f " Oui |H>ur c.e Siir !u suit 1 lUni.i " I . Nkoki Stkulurt . SuUiMM Gom»d BMtktriui Dtlibti Miytthtir Ki*niHgk»m V0tdi I'R INGLE. I mbroiil Tkom»% Aia . . \ (The ••I'ul.ma ti, Jill "MiKiion' i / Mitdemoinelle A.N'TkNIA l>()I,f)RKS. 3. IntrpI/JCTIos TO 3RP Act "LolienKr'in ■ W»g»lf ORCHESTKA. 0. Song .... •■ I Fear no Fush they acquire as a matter of Objeet L«»on. course as soon as they are able to toddle. From toy rifles no bigger than them- selves, they are gradually promoted to what Kipling calls " the real thing ; " and the result of this policy, as Mr. M'Culloch, late Minister of Defence, who has had a mrge share in fostering it, said to me, will be to give Australia such a reserve of capable fighting men, old and young, that she will be not only ready to work out her own salvation in the direst emergency, but to spare many thousands of the finest troops in the world for the military requirements of the old country,, whatever the}- may be. " Tell them at home," he added — and the word " home " among Colonials always Comfort for the """''"^ ^^"^ ""^^ country-" that whenever Old Country. ^^^ *^^'' comes we can give you the flower of our youth, trained and equipped, the best military niaterial procurable, to fight Britain's battles ; and if iieed be we old fellows will shoulder our rifles and stil! know how to protect our hearths and i I ■I /l>eIbonrne »3» (- n Ml V ija TTbe Qneen'0 WHeto \L I rasRworkers, brick- layers, and brushmakers ; tailors and " tailorcpses," tanners, tinsmiths, and tobacconists ; gnxrers, hairdressers, railway men — in short, to continue the list would l)c to catalogue the arts and crafts of Melbourne. Many of the tableaux were very effective. One of the best among the friendly societies, who formed the first part of the procession, was that of the Protestant Alliance, which represented the Fhoto hy fermissian caker of the Legislative Assembly and Mrs. Mason, Mr. Lewis, Premier of Tasmania, Captain Jessen, of the Russian cruiser Gromovoi, and many other notabilities u ere also present. There was no lack of entertainment during the interval of waiting for the arrival of the Duke and Duchess. The steeply-rising galleries at the back of thi- hall were simply packed with " undergrads," and these were in their most boisterous nio(xl. They sang, they cheered, they laughed, they mimicked their professors— and some imitations of professorial mannerisms were singularly happy, jud.'fing from the merriment they pro- voked — and they loudly clamoured for speeches— which, needless to say, were not forthcoming — from premiers, professors, or any one else they recognised in the, from their point of view, far too decorous company below. The Duchess of Cornwall entered shortly before ncwn, while the Duke was robing for the ceremony, ami was escorted to a front seat in the body of the hall. Her Royal Highness was ac- companied by Lord and Lady Hopetoun, Lady Madden, Lady Wrixon, and several members of the Royal and Vice-regal suite. Miss Elsie Morriss and Miss Elsie Traill, on behalf of the Princess Ida Club, presented the Duchess with a bouquet. A brief pause ensued, anJ then the Duke, wearing a red gown and attended by an academic processi()n, walked up the middle of the hall and was conducted to a chair of state on the right of that reserved for the Chancellor, Sir John Madden. In the procession were representatives of the sister universities of rusma.iia. New Zealand, and .\delaide. When all had taken their appointed places upon the dais, the National »H«'i a Jolly 0«od Fellow." ii h •5« Ube ^ncen'B Mitb Anthtin was sung. It was Htart.d l)y an official precentor on the platform, was taken up alMMit half a Imr late in the b«xly of the hall, anil somewhere lietween the two in a different key by the galleries of iimlerKradHates. The latter carried the day, by sheer lung power, the rest of the audience ultering time and key acct.rdinjjly. From the National Anthem the undergraduates glided, as though it were the most natural and projier thing in the world, though not provided for in the official programme, into •• For He's a Jolly GootI I-ellow," which went with a swing. So far from having exhausted itself, the hurricane of hilarious banter burst out afresh. Mr. Barton's appear- ance in the robes of a Master of Arts of Sydney University was one of several stimulating causes. Demands for a speech were renewed, and to a vigorous accompaniment of stamping feet, a chorus of "Mr. Harton— sixiech ; Mr. Barton—sjK-ech," was lustily shouted for several minutes. The Victorian Premier, Mr. Peacock, was subjected to some eipially boisterous chaff, but Hnding that he was not to be drawn the undergrads transferred their attention to the Mayor, hailing him— in anticipation of an impending ceremony— with cries of " Arise. Sir Samuel (iillott." When the real business of the day Ixgan, it proceeded amid a torrent of facetious comment from the galleries, Tomato of '"f''''"'"'"'l*'d ^^'t'> what were deenud appro- '•Ch*ir." priate choruses as each batch of candidates came forward. Thus the surgical graduates were greeted with the chorus, sung to the tune of a well- known hymn, " Saw my leg off, chop," the last word being jerked out in a loud staccato shout. The Duke laughed heartily at several of these sallies. After the ordinary presentations of candidates for degrees, special presentations mi cttndan were made. First came Mr. Bar- ton, who had a great reception, then Lord Tennyson, who was welcomed with eciual enthusiasm, and after them the Right Rev. Henry Hutchinson Montgomery, Bishop of Tasmania, representing the University of Tasmania; the /Bclbonnte >59 Rev. John Chnpiiian Andrew, Vicc-Clianrellor i>f the University of New ZcalaniJ, and Sir Haniuel Way, Chan- cellor of the University of Adelaide. Tumnltuou« plaudits ranj; thrwHth the hall when the name of the next candidate ww« read out. It was that A DtfTM kr Um "'^ " *^'* Koyal Highness George Frederick iJUlrt. Ernest Albert, Duke of Cornwall and York, D.C.L., Oxon., LL.D.. Cantab." This was the event of the day for which all were impatient, and as the Duke stood up on the platform facing the Chancellor, the "jxjtent, grave, and reverend signiors," and even the ladies, were carried away by the tempestu- ous exuberance of the students. Professor Morris pre- sented His Royal Highness as a Doctor of Laws of Ox- ford and Cambridge, and therefore qualified to receive a similar honour at the hands of the University of Mel- bourne. Sir John Madden conferred the degree amid a renewed storm of cheering and the waving of hats and handkerchiefs. The whole audience again sang " For He's a Jolly Good Fellow," the Duke all the while smil- ingly bowing, nis acknowledgments. The Chancellor then read an address in Latin, expressing the loyalty and devo- tion of the University, which associated itself with the highest aspirations of the Commonwealth. In conclusion. Sir John Madden said : " It is necessary to close these proceedings uptjn the most memorable day in the experi- ence of this University. You have already shown how Providence has endcnved you with lungs and throats, but I want from you now three cheers by which you would OhMit t« b« '"'^^ *" *^^ remembered. Hip ! hip ! hurrah ! " B«iMmb«N4. '^^"-' response was given with one accord, and was still re-echoing through the hall when the Royal party took their departure, the National Anthem being sun;,' as they passed out of the building. In the aftermx, a fete for the children of [the State schools was held in the Exhil)ition grounds. Twelve thousand boys and girls from all parts of X'ictoria were 1 I > mmmmm MKHOCOPV HSOUITION TtST CHART (ANSI and ISO TEST CHART No. 2) 1.1 I^IM ■ 2J |M ■■■ ■^B Itt MSm ■ 2^ U Ih £ Lfi ■ 2.0 u IJj^HH Huii 1 11.8 d /APPLIED IM/1GE In t6S3 Cost Uajn Street Roch«ttr. New York U609 uSA (7t6) 482 - 0300 - Phone (716) 286- 5989 -Fo« i6o tcbe (llueen'0 TlQifab I present, many having travelled a distance of two hundred miles to be there, and the four thousand cadets who Ih« ChUdnn's ^**®"'^^'^ *he review took a prominent share F8te. '" ^^^ display which had been arranged. The children were marshalled in the centre of the ground, while the public, to the number of forty or fifty thousand, including the parents and relatives of the young people, thronged the surrounding slopes. The Metropolitan Junior Cadets acted as a guard of honour, and a choir of five thousand voices, from fifty-seven Metro- politan State schools, sang the National Anthem, the band of the Senior Cadets furnishing the military music. The programme was delightfully varied by all sorts of pretty devices, games, songs, dances, and exercises, and the Duke and Duchess were so much interested and enter- tained that they prolonged their stay far beyond the limit of half-an-hour, to which it had been officially restricted. There were Maypole dances, fairy dances, Highland dances, all with appropriate poses and posies, garlands and costumes, and the cadets, after drilling, marching, and exercising with cutlass and bayonet, recited, two hundred of them in unison, " The Charge of the Light Brigade." The parti-coloured caps and sashes of the girls, the fancy costumes of those who masqueraded as harlequins, shep- herdesses, or Maid Marions, with, of course, attendant Robin Hoods, the boys in sailor suits, the school banners, the flo'"^rs and the flags, were blended in constantly vary- ing combinations, and with the frequent accompaniment of joyous song, pleased the Royal spectators beyond mea- sure. The fete was favoured with beautiful weather, and nothing could have been more successful. The Duke and Duchess, before they left, were presented T.r!h.'i Olive ^y ^^^' ^^"' ^^'"'ster of Education, with Branches. ^o'^^ commemorative medals, facsimiles of those which were to be distributed among 260,000 pupils of the State schools a day or two later, for each of their Royal Highnesses' childreii. The medals i> -I i : / Melbourne i6i ** Never seen anything like It." were affixed by a red ribbon to a clasp, on which was inscribed the word " Australia " ; on the obverse were por- traits of the King and the late Queen, with the inscriptio- , "Commonwealth established sixty-third Victoria, first Edward Seventh " ; the reverse represented the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall in profile, with the legend, " To cele- brate the opening of the Federal Parliament." Two replicas of the medal were given fo. the children of the Governor-General, and one for Sir John Madden. As their Royal Highnesses took their leave, the Duchess said to Mr. Gurr, " We have never seen anything like it. Tell the chil- dren how much we have appreciated and admired it." The Duke, on his return to Government House, held an investiture in the ball-room, the first ceremony of the Honoun. '''"^ ^^^^ performuJ on Australian soil. The following is a list of the Honours con- ferred:— The Right Hon. Sir John Forrest, G.C.M.G. • Sir Wm. Macmillan, K.C.M.G.; Sir Josiah Symon, K.C.M.G. ; His Excellency Sir John Dodds, Administra- tor of Tasmania, K.C.M.G.; Mr. E. G. Blackmore, Clerk of Pederal Parhament, C.M.G. ; Mr. R. R. Garran, C.M.G. ; Mr. J. G. Davies, Mayor of Hobart, C.M.G. ; Mr. N. E. Lewis, Premier of Tasmania, C.M.G.; Mr \V Proe, Mayor of Brisbane, C.M.G. ; Mr. A. W. Ware* Mayor of Adelaide, C.M.G.; Captain Wallington, Private Secretary to His Excellency the Governor - General, C.M.G. ; Lieutenant-Colonel Byron (Q.), Extra Royal A.D.C., C.M.G. Knights Bachelors: Sir Samuel Gillott, Mayor of Melbourne ; Sir John Quick, M.H.R., LL.D. Sunday brought much-needed repose after a week of public engagements and exacting duties which probably has no parallel in the lives of any nrince or princess, past or present. Their Royal Highnesses attended Divine service in St. Paul's Cathedral in the forenoon. The Bishop of Perth, who was the preacher, made special L i6a Ube Queen's Wish reference to the occasion and significance of the Royal visit, pointing out how great a thing had been consum- mated in the union of the AustraUan States, by the free will of the people, without the spilling of blood, and with the good-will of their kith and kin in every part of the Empire. In the evening the Duke entertained at dinner on board the Ophir the visiting foreign naval officers as well as several of their Colonial and Imperial confreres. Ballarat, " the Golden City," was honoured with a flying visit on Monday, May 13. The Royal party, which TheOoldan '"'^^"'^^ ^""^ ^"^^ ^^^y Hopetoun, made jUy^ the railway journey of seventy-four miles under the most pleasant and comfortable conditions. Lunch was served en route in the Royal saloon, the table being charmingly decorated with flowers. Enor- mous crowds lined the railway at many points, and cheered enthusiastically. At Geelong, where a brief stoppage was made, there was a gathering of about 15,000. The station had been beautifully decked with palms, tree-ferns, bunt- ing, and mottoes of welcome, and two thousand children, ler" by the Orphanage band, sang the National ^»ntlie:n. The Mayor, Mr. Carr, and his municipal colleagues, were presented, the Duchess accepted a bouquet from the Mayoress, and the ten-minute halt solved, for the moment at least, the problem of the greatest happiness of the greatest number. Ballarat was reached at half-past on , and here again, of course, were more flowers, flags, bands, and bunting. The Mayor, Mr. Wykes, spoke a few words of welcome, expressing the pleasure it afforded the citizens to see His Royal Highness again after an inte-^'al of twenty years; and then .he party set out on one of those helter-skelter scampers which later became a familiar feature of the tour, when human ingenuity was exhausted to squeeze the largest possible number of ( 3, spec- tacles, and ceremonies into any and every break in the journey, however brief. The good people of Ballarat had provided the Duke and Duchess with experiences in If' ^1^ 1: Aelbonrne a^ masonry, in forestry, and in mining, in addition to which there was a christening— that of a brand new square. MkI the peahng of bells and the jubilant shouts of huge holiday crowds, their Royal Highnesses drove first to Sturt Street, where the Duke laid the foundation-stone of a monument to the men from Ballarat who had fallen in "All forth. ^^^ ^°"*^ African war. This occupied but Motherland." ^ ^^w moments. The stone was laid with a silver trowel bearing the inscription, "Our lives are all for the Motherland "; the handle was of I -^i^ 1P^ Baltarat. Duke taylns Foundation Stone of Soldiers' Memorial quartz showing gold, galena, and black jack. Another rapid drive through spacious, arch-spanned boulevards brought the cavai.ade to liallarat East, where the Mayor and Councillors weie waiting at the Town Hall to pay their respects. The Mayor suggested that their Royal Highnesses might like to see the trees which the Duke and the late Duke of Clarence planted at the entrance to the gardens in 1881. Ready assent was forthcoming, L 2 i64 tCbe Olueett's Misb I and then it was discovered that arrangements had been made f« r securing two more mementoes of a similar kind. On the south side of the gardens holes had been dug, a couple of fine young pines had been provided, and spades having been placed in the hands of the Duke and Duchess, the planting of the saplings was speedily accomplished in thoroughly workmanlike manner, Her Royal Highness being assisted by the curator, Mr. Edwards. A box con- taining specimens of the products of the mines of Baharat East was presented by Miss Iris and Miss Stella Pearce. Then back to Ballarat West went the procession of car- riages, racing against. time. A halt was called while the Duke named a charmingly laid-out open space "Alex- andra Square." In front of the City Hall there was another pause while some thousands of children sang an ode of welcome and " God Save the King." Thence a dash was mu • tb a* made for the suburb of Sebastopol, where The Mnu star .1 c ^t. c-x »«• ... MIb*. *"® South Star Mme, a visit to which was the piece de resistance of the day, is situated. Here a somewhat novel guard of honour, consisting of a hundred miners connected with the works, was drawn up. The mine was seen in full operation. Under the guidance of Mr. Wilson, the Chairman of Directors, their Royal Highnesses inspected the machinery, and fifty heads of stan-pevs were started to demonstrate the power of the battery. A silver-mounted blackwood casket, filled with specimens of auriferous quartz from the mine, offered by Mr. Wilson, was graciously accepted as a souvenir of the visit, while Mr. Emery, on behalf of the miners, presented the Duchess with a gold star-shaped brooch bearing the letter " S," the star and the letter indicating the name of the mine. With the ever-ready tact and thoughtful ap- preciativeness which in all the Colonies appealed instantly to rich and poor alike. Her Royal Highness fastened the A Val d Gift ^'^^^^^^ *° ^^^ '^■"^^^ *° w^^*" 't fo'' the rest of the day, at the same time assuring the miners that she valued the gift as highly as any she had ever Aelbonme 165 received. The Royal train left on the return journey at four o'clock, and we arrived back in Melbourne in capital time for dinner. Ballarat, however, had not nearly exhausted its loyal enthusiasm, and the festivit" ^re continued all th" evening with lavish illuminations and a great civic ban- quet, which the Premier of the Commonwealth, Mr. Barton, the Premier of Victoria, Mr. Peacock, and other ministers who had taken part in the receptions, remained to attend. The chief guests at the state dinner at Government House were representative of the other Colonies. They included Major-General Sir Edwin and Lady Collen, of Ceylon; Mr. and Mrs. Mulock, of Canada; Mr. and Mrs. John Frost, of Cape Colony ; Mr. and Mrs. T. K. Murray, of Natal ; Senator Sir William Zeal, President of the Legislative Council ; Mr. F. C. Mason, Speaker of the Legislative Assembly, and Mrs. Masoi ; Sir Rupert and Lady Clarke; Sir Hartley and Lady Williams; Major- General and Mrs. French, of Sydney ; and Mr. William Taylor, of Ceylon. The ninth day of the Royal visit to Victoria, Tuesday, May 14, was claimed uy Young Australia as represented The Boyt of the ^^ *^® ^^^^ °*^ ^^^ P"''^'^ schools, to whom Public Behooli. ^^^ Duke and Duchess had consented to distribute the prizes they had won in study and in sport. Here, surely, was an important section of His Majesty's loyal subjects which was not to be neglected or denied. The Parliament and the populace, the men of war and the learned professions, the civic and ecclesiastical dignitaries, the little children and the alumni of the Uni- versity, the toilers in towns and the dwellers in the lonely bush, fashionable society and the alien races sojourning under the Butish flag, had each and all paid their several tributes to the King's envoys. It was meet and fitting that the boys of the public schools, those admirable insti- tutions from v.hich most of Australia's men of light and leading have sprung, and in which many of her future ,6 Vbe Qneen'0 MiBb statesmen, churchmen, soldiers, judges, and physicians are now laying the foundations of their careers, should enjoy the like opportunity. I feel sure that in the whole course of his travels the Heir Apparent was never brought face to face with a more inspiring assemblage than those healthy, vigorous branches of a grand old stock, who had come together to receive at his hands the meed of their scholastic strivings. The ceremony took place in the great Hall of the Exhibition Building, where the Federal Parliament had been declared open five days previously. km lanMag ^* °" ^^^^ occasion, it was packed to its AiMmblai*. utmost capacity. The boys filled the vast organ loft; the naves and transepts were crowded with parents, grandparents, relatives, and the general public. There are six schools— four Protestant, two Roman Catholic. The Protestant establishments are the Scottish College, the Wesley College, the Church of England Grammar School, and the Melbourne Grammar School, while the two Roman Catholic schools are St. Patrick's College and Kew College. For the time being, sectarian rivalry was sunk. The heads of all the denomi- nations were present, including the Bishop of Melbourne, the Roman Catholic Archbishop, the Rev. George Tait, Moderator of the Presbyterian Assembly, and the Rev. A. R. Edgar, representing the Wesleyan Methodists. " ' ' and political importance was lent to the occasioi presence of the Lieutenant-Governor, Sir John a the Commonwealth Premier, Mr, Barton, Sir Turner, Sir Frederick Sargood, Sir John Quick, anu oiner ministers and members of both Houses of the Legislature. Dr. Morrison, the venerable Principal of the Scottish College, presided. When the Duke and Duchess ap- peared upon the dais they were received with the heartiest cheers that lusty young lungs could give, and the distri- bution of prizes was at once begun. As in the selection of the Chairman, so in the order of precedence accorded to the schools, seniority was the accepted rule. The boys /DenH>ttrne 167 of the Scottish College, which was founded in 1851, came first, St. Francis Xavier's (Kew College), founded in 1854, was next; the Church of England Grammar School, founded in 1857, was third; and after them came the Wesley College and the others. The scholastic prizes consisted for the most part of handsomely bound vol- umes, and these were one by one handed to the successful ■port silver cups, cricket sets, oars, and other appropriate trophies won in the field of sport, were presented by the Duchess, who, by the way, had previously accepted from a pupil of the Scottish Col- lege, Master Denis Herman Lawrence, a bouquet of white orchids. When the distribution had been completed, Dr. Mor- rison read an address of thanks to their Royal Highnesses. It was so instinct with patriotic sentiment that I offer no excuse for reproducing it here. " Thirty-four years ago," said Dr. Morrison, " the late lamented Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, better known to Th« Doator's "^ *.^ **'® ^"^^ °^ Edinburgh, honoured in AddrMt. * similar manner the public schools of Victoria. There are men here to-day hold- ing many of the highest positions in the State who still cherish with pride the recollection of having received on that occasion their prizes from the hands of a Prince of the Royal House. To-day we are more than doubly, honoured; we welcome a Prince of the Royal House who is also heir to the throne, and a much-loved and gracious Princess, mother of our kings to be. Every boy here will remember this day as long as he lives. We have tried, under difficulties unknown to older com- munities, to foster scholarship and a love of learning. Believing that religious teaching must always form an essential part of all true education, we have sought to realise the responsibilities laid upon us of moulding the character and thereby shaping the destinies of this new i68 TTbe aiueen'f VUsb people. We have striven to send forth from our schools good and true men, loyal and patriotic citizens, who will not only do their work well i.i every social, civil, and religious capacity, but will fight, if need be, for their King and country, as so many of our old boys recently have fought. Patriotism and loyalty are natural products of Victorian soil, and we humbly pray your Royal Highnesses to tell our King and Queen that throughout His Majesty's wide dominions there is no other «pot where the senti- ments of loyalty and devotion to their Majesties' person and government are stronger or more genuine than in this distant corner of the Empire, which is proud of bearing the ever-honoured name of Victoria." The Puke, in reply, speaking in loud, clear tones, delivered one of the most stirring and telling speeches of the hundred or more that fell from his lips in the course (^f the tour. His Royal Highness said— " I desire to express the heartfelt thanks of the Duchess and myself for the splendid reception which you have accorded us to-day. * thank you, sir. for the kindly ■tlfring IpMoh '"*""«'■ '" which you have alluded to us, for by the Dnk*. ^^^ assurances of loyalty and devotion to my dear father and mother, and for the feeling allusion to my late lamented uncle, the Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, which have fallen from your lips I heartily congratulate those tc "hom the Duchess and I have had the pleasure of prese.iting the prizes. I would also ask to be allowed to extend our congratulations to the masters and professors, under whose patient care and efficient instruction they have been led to success. My young friends, on these occasions we are, I think, sometimes apt to forget the unsuccessful. Many of those have, no doubt, been equally assiduous, thus merit- ing no less praise than their more fortunate competitors They also have my best wishes. We cannot all be winners. I would say to them, take courage, and, to all do not relax your efforts. Let both success and failure Aelbonme 169 serve as a stimulus to new endeavours, for this is an age of keen competition, intellectual and physical, and ue look to you, the rising generation, not only to hold and keep what your forefathers have beqii' nthed to you, but to push ahead, ever striving to promote what is good and what is beneficial to the cause of civilisation and moral and material progress. Public-school life develops in many ways characteristics which conduce to national greatness. From it we learn discipline, whether in the class-room or in the playing field. It generates mtinli- ness, courage — which begets truthfulness— «s^rt/ de corps, and the faculty of sticking together, the combination of which qualities, whether in men or nations, must tend towards pre-eminence. You whom I address wiil, please God, remember longest the stirring historical events of the past days, and many of you may by your lives and example influence the growth and development of the Commonwealth whose birth you have witnessed. Keep up your traditions ; think with pride of those who, educated in your schools, have become distin- guished public servants of the State, or who have fought, or are still fighting, for the Empire in Soutl Africa and China. May your lives be happy and pros- perous, but do not forget that the youngest of us have our responsibilities, which increase as time goes on. If I may offer you advice, I should say, be thorough ; do your level best in whatever work you may be called upon to perform. Remember that we nre all fellow subjects of the British Crown. Be loyal, yes, to your parents, your country, your King, and 30ur God. Again I thank you all, and I asiure you that it has been a real pleasure to both the Duchess and to myself to be present and to assist at the proceedings on this happy and memorable occasion." For several minutes after the conclusion of this ad- dress, the hall rang again and again with the cheers of the boys and their proud relatives. I7D TTbc Qncen'c miab TkttnuHlOM rtatf. At this point a great Imperlali»tic idea wat conwim- mated. At an appointed signal, t'iven by bugle-call, the DucheM touched tlse famout gold electric button, of which mention has already been made, and the immediate result was the simultaneous hoist'ng of the Union Jack over every public •chool throughout the Commonwealth. This demonstra- tion had Iwen carefully organised. " The Grand Old Flag Movement," as it was called, owed its inception to Senator Sir Frederick Sargood, and every State had seized upon it with avidi.y. Se en thousand schools, with pupils num- beting nearly three quarters of a million,* were ready to respond to the signal. When the bugle in the Exhibition Building at Melbourne rang out, up went a Union Jack which had been furled there in readiness upon a gilded mast under the great dome, and at the same instant, the telegraph lines having been cleared in order that the pre arranged signal might be simultaneously flashed from end to end of the Australian continent, to Tasmania, and to far- off Fiji as well, "the Grand Old Flag" was flung to the breeze, and the grand old national hymn, •• God Save the King," was sung with heart and voice by millions who could only participate in spirit, but none the less patrioti- cally, in these historic events. Even the pupils of the Victorian Deaf and Dumb Institution took part, and had a Maypole dance. The scene in the Exhibition building, where the note for this wonderful manifestation was being struck, was one worth remembering. The cheering must have roused echoes that had never been stirred before, and the National Anthem was sung with a fervour stimulated by the knowledge that the strains were beinfj joined in by the assembled youth of the entire Commonwealth, with their parents and elders. Feasting, holidays, and suitable en- tertainments accompanied the demonstration in all the different States. Bells were rung, salutes were fired by cadets and rifle corps, perfervid speeches were made, Ualvtiwl Ra- joloingt. /Delboumc 171 commemnr^ittion medals were divtributed, bonflres were lighted, ui.d what with picnics, Maypole dances, n.erry.Ro- rounds, confectionery, illuminations, fireworks, and Rene, ral rejoicings, there never was such a day in juvenile Australasia. To sum all up, anil to give people in the Old Country due notitication of these brave dc.ings, the follow- _ ing message was, shnce ttnante, cabled to Mr. Joseph Chamljerlain, Secretary of State for the Colonies : — "On this day, May 14, the State school children throughout the whole of Austtulia and Tp' nia, number* ing 650,000, assembled at their respective -r., ois, number- ing 7,000, and at 10 minutes to i oVIocli .1. Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Cornwall and York despatched a telegraphic message from the Exhibition Building, whereupon the Union Jack was simultaneously hoisted over every school, and the children sang ' God Save the King,' followed by 'hree cheers for the 'Grand Old Flag.* •' A well-earned holiday, which took the form of a day's shooting, was enjoyed by the Duke on Wednesdaj-, Dmli«Qe«t ^^^ ^^' ^^'* ^°^'^' Highness, who had llMotlitf. accepted the invitation of Mr. W. Pearson, member of the Legislative Council, to shoot ever lis esta' at Kilmany Park, near Sale, travelled over nigh. special train, which arrived at Sale station at four o* ck in the morning, and remained there in a sidinfj all eight, when breakfast was rerved. Mr. Pearson toen drove the Duke to Kilmany Park in a jHxies of .oi.ble dog-cart drawn by a couple of spa . .ig bays, the remainder of the party following in ' a drag and two buggies. On the way a pair of aboriginal "kings," King Billy and King Bobby, heads of the almost extinct Wurruk Wurruk tribe, who had made their way on purpose from tbe Ramahyuck Aboriginal station, were met, and were gratified by a few kindly words from His Royal Highness. They manifested their delight at the honour by throwing their boomerangs, 172 TTbe (ftueen's Misb which flew whizzing over the dog-cart and returned to their dexterous manipulators. The shooting party was one of eleven guns, comprising the Duke, Sir John Madden Prince A^xander of Teck. Lord Wenlock, the Duke of Ro:burghe. Sir Charles Cust. the Hon. Derek Keppel Commander Faussett. Major Bor, Captain Duff and Mr. Guy Madden. The weather was clear and bracing, and excellent sport was enjoyed, one hundred and twenty brace of quail being bagged before lunch time Of these, eighteen brace hfd fauL to His Koyal Highness's gun. An amusing incident occurred. One might have imagined that on this of all occasions H.R.H.wuithe camera fiend would have ceased from Camera Fiend, troubling. But his persistent activity K A u- r^T' '^^^''^- '^^^ ^""^^ had just dis- I'^K .u'l f°^h"&-P'«ce. bringing down three birds vvith both barrels, when, on turning round, he obsei-ved hat he had been taken in the act by an enterprising snap-shotter." "Do you want to photograph me ? " he smilingly inquired of the unabashed " demon " " I've just done It your Royal Highness," was the reply. The Duke laughed heartily, and remarked, " If I had a trnt'S" ^"^ r^A l'""' ^''" •'"'" photographed during Koyal Highness got fourteen and a half brace more of quail and one hare The total bag for the day was one hundred and sixty-two and a half brace. Some parrots rosellas, and other interesting specimens of native birds were afterwards shot in the grounds of Mr. Pearson s house, where the Duke, before leaving, planted a tree in commemoration of a most agreeable outing In the course of the drive back to the station, His Koyal Highness was furnished with a characteristically Austra .an escort of five small boys, the youngest not more than six, who galloped alongside the dog-cart astride smart ponies, on which they were as much at home as if they had been actually "born in the saddle " Aelbonnte »73 the leaders being Master Pearson and his cousin Master Gooch. At Warragul, where the train made a brief halt on the return journey, there was a popular demon- stration— one of many that attended the trip— and the Duke was presented by Councillor M'Niel with a gold- mounted fiddleback-wood walking stick from the Gipps- land Forest. While the shooting party was in progress, the Duchess was profiting by the lull in ceremonious festivities to DuchmWonloi.^^^ something of the most beautiful scenery in Victoria. Her Royal High- ness, attended by Lady Katherine Coke, the Hon. Mrs. Derek Keppel, Colonel Byron, Lieutenant Maitland, R.N., and Captain Corbet, went by special train to Healesville, and thence drove to Fernshaw, where they enjoyed a ramble in the woods, gathering ferns and wild flowers, admiring the sylvan glories of the place, and picnicing in the greenwood. The excursion was a semi-private one, but Her Royal Highness was every- where greeted with tributes of loyalty and affection. Children were waiting to present her with posies of chrysanthemums, heath, and woodland blossoms; and one little bare-headed girl made a delightfully original presentation by offering a bunch of violets dangling from the end of a branch so that the Duchess could just snatch them as the carriage rolled along. Another trophy which the Duchess brought back from this pleasant expedition was an Australian boomerang. Though their Royal Highnesses were thus spared a " day off," the Fathers of the city and the political Civio Banquet. ""^^ °^ ^^^^^^' "^^^^ ^" apparently un- quenchable thirst for more and more "celebration," still held high revel. A banquet was given in the Town Hall by the newly ennobled Mayor, Sir Samuel Gillot, to some five hundred leading citizens, to meet " His Majesty's Ministers of State," a phrase which still came home to the Australians with all the »74 TCbe Qneen'0 Tnifsb force of novelty. The gathering was in every sense representative and distinguished, and several admirable speeches were made. The Mayor, in proposing the health of the Duke and Duchess, expressed his delight that the promise of Queen Victoria that the first Parlia- ment of the Commonwealth should be opened by her grandson, had been fulfilled with grace and dignity and crowned by a spectacle and a demonstration the finest and most brilliant ever witnessed in Australia. Mr. Barton, responding to the toast of the Federal Ministry, also spoke eloquently on the engrossing topic of the hour. He pointed out how fully the people of Australia had reaHsed the meaning of the Royal visit, which was not intended merely as a casual compliment,' but which had been granted by a Royal Family over- whelmed in mourning, for the sole reason that there was Cemutingthe *" oPPortunity of showing that the policy Bmpln. of Great Britain, in its successive grants of self-government to its Colonies, had been justified by events, and the most recent of those events had cemented the Empire together by something much stronger than any covenant that could be effected on parchment. Feasting was not confined to the official and well-to-do classes. The poor had not been forgotten. The Govern- ment and private liberality had provided funds to regale every indigent person who could be reached with a sub- stantial dinner, not only on the great day but throughout the week. The dispensation of this bounty was entrusted to the Salvation Army, the various missions, and other philanthropic organisations. Thus even the most necessi- tous were enabled to cheer for the Royal visitors, as they did right heartily, with full stomachs and grateful hearts. On the last day of the stay in Melbourne, the Duke inaugurated the city's latest improvement— a new road along the south bank of the Yarra, with a fine broad /Delbourne »75 mall for equestrians— and conferred upon it the name "Alexandra Avenue." The Commonwealth celebrations were now at an end, and there vere congratulations on every hand for KxehMitof ^^^ admirable manner in which they had BoaTtBln. '^^^^ organised and the signal success which had attended them from first to last. Numerous gifts were exchanged as mementoes. Mr. Peacock, on behalf of the Ministry, asked the Duke to accept as a souvenir of his visit a unique casket made of Australian blackwood and nuggets, and bearing the Prince of Wales's feathers in Queensland diamonds, with the following inscription — " To His Royal Highness the Duke of Cornwall and York. Specimens of Australian Gold, Diamonds, and Blackwood, from the State Government of Vic- toria. Melbourne, May 9, 1901. In expressing his appreciation of the gift. His Royal Highness assured the Ministers that independently of it he would always retain the most pleasant recollections of the city, and could never forget the splendid reception it had accorded him. The Royal present to Mr. Barton, the Federal Premier, was a valuable gold snuff-box bearing on the lid the Royal Arms and monogram in blue enamel, the Imperial crown in rubies, the Prince of Wales's feathers in diamonds bound with an emerald clasp, six large separate brilliants completing its adorn- ment. Inside the lid was the inscription— " The Right Hon. Edmund Barton, Prime Minister of the Commonwealth of Australia, from the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York, in Remem- brance of their Visit to Australia, igoi." Other Ministers and prominent officials received sou- venirs in the form of cigarette cases, sleeve-links, and similar trinkets embellished with the Royal Arms, and 176 TCbe dlneen'0 Mfab PrMtleal lympkthy. Mr. Peacock signed photographs of the Duke and Duchess. Sir John and Lady Madden were presented with a silver salver and portraits. Nor were those with whom the Fates had dealt less kindly overlooked. Her Royal Highness sent to the Children's Hospital — which sh^ had somehow found time to visit, gladdening the little sufferers with many a kindly word and smile and a bounteous distri- bution of toys — photographs of herself and her children, and to the Women's Hospital her own portrait. The soldiers in South Africa had been remembered too, as the following telegram from Lord Kitchener, in acknowledg- ment of a contribution to the winter clothing and comforts fund, will show — " The army is »rateful. It follows the progress of your Royal Highness<2s with the greatest interest and best wishes. The Australians here are doing splendid work." Among the many minor tributes sent to Government House — poems and odes of welcome, by the way, were in great vogue — none perhaps was more quaintly novel than a case of apples, each fruit displaying upon its ruddy countenance, as thougft »♦ were the work of Nature, the Royal Arms. The grower, Mr. Evans, had in- geniously produced this device by dressing the apples on a particular tree with a transfer which, when it was removed after the fruit had ripened, left the outlines perfectly traced in vivid green on each mellow red background. I wonder whether on the eve of his departure from the Victorian capital, after all these magnificent rejoicings over the consummated Commonwealth, His iHenee!"' ^oy^^^ Highness remembered an entry he made in the joint diary kept by his brother and himself when they were leaving Melbourne after their visit as midshipmen in 1881. The young princes had evidently been much impressed by all they had heard and read in regard to the possibilities, vague enough at that Aelbourne 177 time, of federation at some future date, and this is the entry that was made in the carefully kept diary :— "July 7th.-0n board all day; in the forenoon ex- ercised at general quarters and went to school, as we .«"pposed, for the last time on board the old Bacchante. under the poop. The Argus published this morning, the last we shall be .ble to buy in Melbourne, contains the fcllowmg m one of its leading articles, which we shall carry away with us and think over. After saying mnr.y kmd thmgs of our stay here, it goes on :— " • It is probable that in the course of a few years an attempt will be made to form the various branches of the scattered but united British family into one vast confedera- tion. As colonies attain in the matter of wealth and popu- ation to the dignity and standing of nations, it is hardly hkely that they will be content with their present rela- tions to the paramount power. The time will come sooner or later when a closer union or a formal separation wUl be the only alternatives presented for the choice of states- men. The danger in that day will be that Imperial mi- nisters will falter before the difficulties of federation, and allow the colonies to go in sheer despair of grappling suc- cessfully with the problem involved in their retention. The best antidote to despair in that case would be a pro- found conviction in the minds of the governing classes of the enormous value to England of the possessions which would be surrendered, unless some common modus vivendi could be discovered. It is in spreading the knowledge at home of these two things, of the importance not only of Victoria but of all the colonies, and the affectionate loyalty which colonists feel towards the institutions of the Enipire, that the Princes, as they grow -.ip, will be able to do a great deal.' " These weighty words were well won. ^^ondering, but The Onmu the boy prince, when he wrote them down Be»UMd. in his journal and conned them over as he had promised himself to do, could never have dreamt M 178 Vbe aiueeit'8 MtBb ii that, by the inscrutable decrees of Providence, it was he himself who should one day return as Heir Apparent to crown the completed edifice then foreshadowed. Side by side with the passage which had so rivetted the attention of Prince George ..nd his brother, it will be interesting to read the opening paragraph of the leading article in which the same high-minded and far- seeing journal hailed with patriotic pride the realisation of the dream which after an interval of two decades had come true, and pointed to a great work till to be accom- plished in the consolidation of the Anglo-Saxon race. The A rgus, on the morning of the Commonwealth inau- gural ceremony, said — "The Federal Parliament of Australia will be opened to-day by the Heir to the Throne in person, and thus the vision of a united Australia becomes an accomplished fact. It is good for the world, good for the Empire, and good for ourselves that this dream has been realised. It is good for the world that a White Empire should grow up in these Southern-Asian seas, as a counter-balance to the great Asiatic empires of China and Japan, with all their mysterious possibilities. The coloured races were fast creeping down the Malayan peninsula and isles, and it is well that Australia is occupied beforehand by a united people, who will maintain for Europe its civilisation here. Our unity is good for the British Empire, for it is a long step towards that Imperial federation which will be the consolidation of the Empire's power. Some of us who take part in the rejoicings of the week may live to see the larger union accomplished, the British people possessing the one Parliament and the one Customs law, as well as the one Sovereign, the one literature, and the one flag. It may be the happy fortune of the Duke of Cornwall and York, who opens the first Parliament of Australia, to open other Parliaments in which all parts of the Empire will be directly represented. We sincerely hope that this honour will fall to His Royal Highness. No emperor Aelbonrne 179 of the old world, no Caesar, no Alexander, could even miagine so w.de a sovereign sway; no Czar, no American President can hope for a realm so wide extended as that which a federated Great Britain will fuse into a whole And the union of Australia brings Imperial federation close to the Ime of practical politics. It is the next step." Is this dream less likely to be realised than the other ? Should It, too, happily come true, it will certainly be the Win th« SMond J^stimony of all who were privileged to comeTni*? follow, stage by stage, the Imperial pro- gress which I am now endeavouring to de- scribe that the Prince to whose youthful imagination the earlier one appealed so powerfully, and the Consort who shared the honours and duties bequeathed to him by " the Queen's wish," will by the mann^-r in which they dis- charged that sacred trust have contributed in no small measure to bring about so glorious a result. CHAPTER IV f^ QUEENSLAND AND NEW SOUTH ITALES ACCORDING to the original programme, the Ophir was to have sailed for Brisbane on May i6. Almost at the last moment, this arrangement was changed. Several cases of plague had been reported from the Queensland port, which had accordingly been A Chug* of P';'^'^"'"ed " infected." The naval author- Pvegruimi*. '*'^s, naturally anxious that the success of the tour should not be in any way jeopardised, as it undoubtedly would have been, by any outHr.'k of this fell disease amcig the men of the squu l.on or of the Royal yacht itself, were disinclined to face the risk involved. It was in these circum- stances determined to make the journey to Queensland by rail instead of by sea, a decision which caused a good deal of disappointment to the people of Brisbane, who were preparing to welcome the Ophir and the warships forming the escort, but on the other h;md had compen- sating advantages, for, as Lord Hopeionn pointed out in a letter to the press, it enabled their Royal Highnesses to see something of the interior, which they could not otherwise have done. It also afforded to many thousands of country folk an eagerl\-sought opportunity to manifest their loyalty and at the same time obtain, once in their lives, a glimpse of their future rulers. Here, moreover, as elsewhere whenever a slight change of programme became necessary — and it was surprisingly seldom — every- thing possible was done to minimise the disappointment or inconvenience to which it might give rise. For ex- ample, the inhabitants of South Melbourne had looked forward to giving their Royal Highnesses a cheery send-off iSo Qneen0Ian^ i8i when they re-embarked ; so it was arranged that the tram should start, not from the more convenient Spencer Street Station, but from that of Port Melbourne. And as will presently appear, the same kindly thoupht fulness was displayed in rcpanl to the citizens of Brisbane. On the overland journey as far as the Queensland frontier, their Royal Highnesses were accompanied by Oood-bytto ^^^ Governor-General and Lady Hope- Malboani*. *"""• The drive from Government House to Port Melbourne was made the occasion of a fresh popular ovation all along the flag-bedecked route. The Mayor and Councillors of South Melbourne had prepared a reception, school children sang, the Lieu- tenant-Governor and the Federal and State Ministers, with their wives, were there to bid adieu, and on the station platform, which was adorned with shrubs and bunting, a guard' of honour from the naval contingent just returned from China was drKwn up. The leave-taking was brief. The Duke and Duchess said a few cordial words to those who had come to see them off, shook I'ands all round, and bowed their final acknowledgments from the rear platform of the train as it moved out amid ringing cheers from the crowd, led by Mr. Harton, the Duchess carrying with her a pretty farewell gift in the form of a silver-mounted bowl made from an emu's egg and filled with violets, which was handed to her by the Mayoress of Port Melbourne, Mrs. Edwardes. The journey from Melbourne to Brisbane, one of some 1,300 miles, involved a sojourn of two days 1,800 Milet by ^^^ *^° nights in railway carriages, but SaII. 't is hardly necessary to say that nothing forethought or money could do was omitted to render it comfortable and enjoyable. The train con- sisted of four state carriages, a saloon for the English special correspondents, and a couple of luggage vans. Provision had been made for enabling the party— a hun- dred all told— to lunch, dine, and breakfast during the i8a TTbe aineen's mieh run throiif^h two States and a section of a third, without leaving their saloons, as luxuriously as in the best hotel. There were necessarily three different railway systems to he passed over, and each Government Department vied with the others in making the most perfect arrangements possible. A pilot train preceded and an emergency train followed that by which the Royal party travelled, and the line was patrolled at frequent intervals, about 4,000 men being employed in this duty. The run through Victoria to the New South Wales border, a distance of 190 miles, occupied a little over five hours. There were only two stoppages, each for five minutes, at Uenalla and Wangaratta, but at all intermediate stations the train slowed down to enable the people crowding the platforms to see and cheer the Duke and Duchess. These demon- strations were so exactly alike, not only in point of en- thusiasm but in all the essential details — w.iving of flags, hats, and handkerchiefs, children singing the National Anthem, cadets saluting, and at every halting-place a bouquet for the Duchess— that to describe them indi- vidually would involve much tedious repetition. Albury, the frontier station, was reached at twenty minutes past five. Here the party left the Victoria train, Acrou N«w ^"^ *^^ Duke, having inspected the guard South W»1m. °^ honour, which included a contingent of cadets, and bowed with the Duchess to an immense crowd outside the station, took possession of the sumptuous saloons provided for the next and most im- portant stage of the journey by the Railway Administra- tion of New South Wales. The distance to be covered in traversing New South Wales from border to border was 862 miles. The train, which was under the immediate personal charge of Mr. Charles Oliver, Chief Railway Com- missioner, and Mr. J. T. Harper, Chief Traffic Manager, was composed of eight coaches, the drawing-room car in which the Duke and Duchess travelled being one that had been specially built for the Governor-General. We started 4tneen0Uinb 183 again at five minutes past six. By this time it was quite- dark, and the distraction of watching the fleeting scenery was detied us for the rest of the evening. There was com- pensation, however, in a most excellent dinner and every creature comfort that the heart of man could desire, and when we turned in for the night every passenger on board slept so soundly that nothing was known till breakfast, time of a little contretemps which was in itself of no im|H)rt- ance, but which gave the watchful officials the oppor- tunityforasmart bit of railway work well worth recording. In the middle of the night some slight delay was caused by the over-heating of one of the axles of the car, as it ■mrtlaUwaj happened, in which I and the other Work. English special correspondents were fast asleep. With so little to-do that no one was even disturbed in his slumbers, the car was slipped and left behind for three hours in a siding while the " hot box " was attended to and allowed to thoroughly cool down. Then the coach, with the still oblivious press- men, was taken on by the emergency engine at the rate of seventy miles an hour, overtaking and re-coupling with the main portion of the train in ample time for breakfast. When the Duke heard of the incident, he promptly sent a message to Mr. Oliver complimenting him upon the efficiency of the service and assuring him that in all his experience he hid never travelled in a more comfortable train. Descriptions of the Australian bush are too familiar to need any amplification here, but I may say that the =-n. pression produced upon any one who passes large tracts of it in review for the tirst time from a railway train must necessarily be somewhat triste. Its vast extent, its desola- tion, its primeval solitudes, have inevitably a depressing The Mtlaneholy '"^"^"^f "PO" t^^ose who are accustomed Baili. *° the life and stir of cities. What most of all, however, lends to the landscape this tinge of melancholy is the long, long, apparently 184 Vbe ^necn'f muto interminable proceHion of dead gum treei, which flit past the carnage window* day and night like to mtmy ghotta of murdered aentient thinsa. Thew treea are the neceasary victima of the march of civilisation. In the thick under- wood no Rrasa, or grain, or crop* can grow, and to effect a clearance these monnrcha of the foreat have to be de- atroyed. This is done by •• ring-barking " them. That is to 3ay. a ring is cut in the bark a few feet from the ground, which causes the tree to die and rot away, and so extensive clearance* are made at a cost insignificant compared with that of cuttmg down and removing the auperabundant timber. 1 he result is an innumerable array of gaunt spectral trunks and branches, bleaching in the sun and rotting in the rain, and appealing to high Heaven, as it were, in their moribund misery. Having inflicted this perhaps rather lugubrious im- pression upon my readers. I will make amends by recount- A BMk Tan. '"f * '^^P'^"' '"^'^ of bush life, which was told in the train, and which dwellers in towns will find distinctly humorous, in these trackless wildernesses, men who when camping out in twos or threes are throwr ^tirely upon their own resources, and meet no other living soul for weeks together, develop a taciturnity almost wholly incompatible with conversation. Two men, so the story goes, had been camping out together for some weeks, and had reached this stage of moroseness. Possibly they were engaged in ring-barking trees. Any- how, they had laboured, and eaten, and camped together for days without exchanging a single word. At length the silence was broken by one of them, who rem.irko'l : " Say, Bill, there's a bull bellowing down in the valley." No reply was vouchsafed at the moment, but about the same hour on the following afternoon. Bill solemnly en- quired : " Say, Tom, how d'ye know it wasn't a cow ? " Again no rejoinder was forthcoming, but when Bill awoke next morning, he found Tom packing his "swag" and obviously preparing to depart. "What?" he asked, 4liiceii«UiiiD •85 " leaving ? " " Ym," T«»in answered, " tcxj much aripnient in this 'ere camp." And he left. The train, which, by the way, was the heaviest ever carried over the route, made excellent running, and in the course of the day the Royal visitors found much to interest and deliffht them in the wonderful resources of the country, where these, in wide expanses, are Injinj,' Kr;iaMrB. "'" '"^° gardens and fertile plains. The scenery changed considerably as we pro- ceeded northward, for the line steadily rose, winding up many steep gradients till, at Ben Lomond, it reached an altitude of 4,473 feet above the sea level. Many charming bits of landscape unfolded themselves in the Hawkcshury River Valley and Hunter County. The last six hours of the journey to the Queensland border was made in dark- ness, but at interva'd shrill outbursts of cheering indicateil to the occcipants of 'he train that they were speeding through a station w ^re crowds had long lieen waiting just to seii the Imperial car flash by, and greet it as it passed. Jennin,t'=, the northern terminus of the New South Wales Railway, was reached, ahead of scheduled time, at II p.m. Here Lord Hopetoun took leave of t!ic ir Royal Highnesses, to return by special train to Sydney. Three quarters of an hour was spent in turn- ing over to the Queensland train bag and baggage, and we were en route for Brisbane by a quarter to twelve. There ve arrived on the morning of Monday, May 20. In order to mitigate the natural disappointment which had been caused by the change of programme, it was I I! !l M '» 1] I! 1 86 Ube (Queen's mtab arranged that the Royal party should land exactly as they Britbuie. would have done from the Ophir had the passage from Melbourne been made by sea. This was easily managed by stopping the train at Milton, where there is a private platform for Government House, when it arrived there at nine o'clock in the morning, and making no public appearance till the afternoon, the ap- pointed time for the official entry. The Duke and Duchess, having enjoyed a welcome breathing space, left the Domain by the waterside landing-stage and, embarking upon the Government yacht Lucinda, proceeded in her some distance down the river. Returning, they stepped ashore, as origin- ally intended, at Kennedy Wharf. Here the acting Premier, Mr. Rutledge, and the other Ministers, with the Federal Postmaster-General, Mr. Drake, Sir Philip Fysh, the Mayor in his robes of office, and many other leading public men, were waiting to receive them, while facing the wharf was a grand stand filled with a choir of a thousand children ready to sing their welcome as scon as the official one had been spoken. The Lucinda, dressed with flags and flying the Royal Standard, came alongside at half-past two with the usual accompaniment of guns and military music. Mrs. Proe, the Mayoress, having offered the Duchess a bouquet, the Mayor formally presented an address in the name of the Municipality. It was enclosed in a large casket made of Queensland woods. Both the address and the reply were taken as read, to save time and enable the brilliant cortege, for which the entire population of Brisbane, augmented by many thousands of visitors from the most distant corners of the Colony, was eagerly waiting to begin its triumphal progress. But the address, of which the Duke, in accordance with the in- variable practice throughout the tour, had received a copy in advance, contained a passage with which His Royal Highness had not been slow to express his sym- pathy in the written reply, signed by himself, which he handed to the Mayor. It ran as follows :— " In the diueensland 187 Federation of States, to open whose Parliament your Royal Highness has crossed the seas, we see a great future gaeentland'i ^°'^ ^^^^ Austral lands, and it is to us a Hopes. matter of especial pride that the name of your Royal Highness is indissolubly linked with this epoch in our history ; and we supplicate Almighty Britbane. Triumphal Arch God that the era so auspiciously inaugurated may be a period of unexampled prosperity in every State of the Commonwealth," The Duke, in the course of his response, after thanking the Mayor for the " touching allusion " made to his former visit, said: "It is gratifying to me to observe the pro- gress which Queensland has made since those days— a progress which has enhanced rather than diminished that f i f: • I 1 88 Ube aiueen'0 miBb /, characteristic loyalty of its people to the Throne and Em- pire to which the gallantry of her sons has of late rendered such inestimable service. I fully share your confidence in the great future in store for the Commonwealth, and it has been a great pleasure to me to be entrusted with the mission which has so prominently associated me, as the representative of His Majesty the King, with the in- auguration of the Federal Legislature." In the drive through the charmingly decorated streets which followed, their Royal Highnesses were escorted by a detachment of the Queensland Mounted Infantry, the Colony's corps d'elite, many members of which had served and distinguished themselves in the war. It was under the command of Major Spencer Browne, C.B. T , the adornment of the streets, houses, and public buildings, palms and other tropical plants played a prominent part, and there were a couple of highly effective arches, the more important being that which spanned the junction of Queen Street and George Street. It was surmounted by a huge crown— during the visit the most conspicuous feature in all Brisbane, and when illuminated at night by electricity a real thing of beauty. For the rest, the arch was largely illustrative of Queensland products— corn tobacco, sugar, wool, pearl shells, and tropical fruits! Two of the inscriptions upon it were " May Welcome Smile on Both," and " Made glorious by this Sun of York." The other arch, which greatly interested and amused their Royal Highnesses, was one upon which was posed a group of aboriginals, whose statuesque stillness misled most members of the party, till quite near, into supposing that they were mere dummies. In South Brisbane a halt was called while the Mayor, Mr. Stephens, presented an address, in replying to which the Duke re- The Oaidintf "^^^^' ^^^* whatever sacrifices the Duchess Prineiple. f "d himself had had to make in undertak- ing this visit, were fully compensated by the heartiness and cordiality of the receptions they had CHueensIand 189 everywhere met with, and by the clear manifestations of the resolution of the people of Australia to adhere to the great principle which the Mayor had quoted in the address—" One life, one flag, one fleet, one Throne." At Government House no fewer than twenty-two depu- tations attended to present addresses. These were headed Twaaty-two ^^ ^^^. ^^^^^P °^ Brisbane and the repre- Addrenu. sentatives of the various dioceses. After them came the Chamber of Commerce, the Municipal Councils of Toowoomba and Bundaberg, the Medical Association, the Prr{ even more directly to the popular mind, was the other act of ready sympathy which was exhibited by Ixith Duke and Duchess simul- taneously a little later. In the hiKh-jumping trials, one of the most skilful com|)etitors was a small black boy mounted on a bifi horse that was holdiPK his own with the best and looked like winninR a place. Both boy and horse, I was told, belonged to a circus. The bar had been raised and raised till only one or two were in the runninR, and the boy's performances were being watched with breathless interest, when the horse's hoof struck the bar, causing him to fall and roll over upon his rider. The little fellow struggled to his feet, but as quickly collapsed, writhing upon the ground ir. great pain. There was plenty of willing aid at hand, but, in an instant, from separate; directions, two messengers were seen hurrjing across the field. One was the Duke's own medical attendant, Dr. Manby, who had been sent post haste to ascertain the nature of the Negro lad's injuries, the other, also a member of the suite, had been dispatched upon a similar errand from the pavilion where the Duchess was seated. Or. Manby came back in a few minutes and reported that no bones were broken. But you may be sure the quick solicitude of the Royal visitors for the little black circus-rider was not lost upon the thousands who witnessed it, but was told and dis- cussed in many a yueensland home-circle that evening. A levee, an afternoon reception, and a concert pro- vided a fairly exacting programme for the last day of the visit to Brisbane. The levee was held ''plrt'°"d"' •" ^^^ Legislative Chamber of the Parlia- Concert. ment House, and was attended by a large number of representative citizens, with all of whom the Duke shook hands. It lasted less than half an hour. The reception in the afternoon took the form Queen»liin5 «97 BiKlMiM. Th« Duke convaralng with Mr. F. A. Nock, a ratlrtd VoluntMr of a parden party. There were a thousand guests, and music and refreshments were liberally dispensed, hut the success of the gathering was somewhat marrcil by showers. The concert, which was held in the evening in the Exhibition Concert Hall, was under the dirwtion of Mr. George Sampson, conductor of the Brisbane Musi- cal Union and the Liedertafel. An excellent programme 198 tube aitieen'0 mitb of orchestral and choral music was rendered in prcHence of a (listinKnisihed audience, and the Duke, before leaving, compli> mented Mr. Sampson upon the high musical attainments of the Queens- landers, of whom both orchestra and choir were exclusively composed. Mrs. Gilbert Wilson was the vocalist. On their return to Government House, their Royal Highnesses were , - serenaded by a man glee sing- ers calletl the Schubert Hund. The seretiaders were sixteen in number. The Duke and Duchess listened to their perform- ance from the balcony, and Her Royal Highness after- wards accepted a bouquet of orchids and other choice blooms which they offered. The singers were especiall}' delighted when the Duchess praised their efforts, speaking in their own language, and the air resounded with enthu- siastic " Hochs ! " when they took their departure. It was on the last day of the stay in Brisbane that news was received by cable of the narrow escape of the King when the steel mast of Sir Thomas Lipton's yacht Shamrock II. was carried away by a squall in the Solent CoMoounl Priataai*. Ci#B» PknMBtur. thnm d* MwImu MOtn d'HMel. FikU (U PwdnMK M Bdb Vne. ToiumdM I I'lUUtuw. Poolats d« Oniiu m Cnmtm. idaBomif OhiUimL Gaaudi SurafM BotU. OtUt ta Manuqoia. B«Turoiw8 au FnuMi. Hottm k riToin. Mcnalef DIniMr In Royal Train between Brisbane and Sydney. aln(ell•Ulll^ 109 An may J>e imagined, the telegrnm caniied a profound iwn- Ration, and on all »ide« one heard expnssions of ilevoiit thankfulness that no harm had Iwfallt-n His Majesty. A state banquet wai jjiven each evening at (iovcrn- ment House, and amonf; those who had the honour to QwMulaad. Th* Royal Train be invited were the Mayor of Brisbane and Mrs. Proe, and the Mayor of South Brisbane and Mrs. Stephens. Friday, the 24th of May, was spent in travelling. • iK—i * The Royal train left Brisbane at eleven By Tnun to .,,•', , , , », ,, , lydney. ° clock, and the run down to the New South Wales border was most enjo\able, the wea- ther being fine and not too hot. Their Royal Highnesses SCO TTbe Olueen's Miab now saw large tracts of country, including the famous Darling Downs, through which they had passed in the night on entering " the Queenly Colony." Farther on, the winding line ascends 3,000 feet above the sea, amid lovely vistas of tree-clad heights. All the stations we passed were decorated and thronged with people cheering and singing the National Anthem. At Ipswich, a party of aboriginals started an impromptu corrobboree, but the entertainment was cut short by the departure of the train. A very pleasant break in the journey took place at four o'clock in the afternoon not far from Cambooya. Pienio in the '**^^''" Koyal Highnesses had accepted an Bnih. invitation to picnic in the bush and experi- ence the novelty of a "billy tea," with real bush-made "damper." The spot selected was a paddock on the Harrow station of the Ramsay estate. When the train halted, the whole party jumped on the track, and, scrambling down the embankment through long rank grass, entered the paddock by an opening which had been cut in the barbed-wire fence. A few hundred yards away a great herd of fine cattle, three hundred in number, had been rounded up in order that the stockmen might give an exhibition of " cutting out," that is, riding through and through the closely packed herd and cutting out or separating from the main body any particular animals that might be designated. This operation was at once begun. It was astonishing to see how fast these bush-bred bullocks could travel. The horses were fleet and skilled at the gan-.e, entering into it with all the zest of a polo pony, bot they needed alertness and dexterity, for the cattle, with lumbering, ungainly strides, covered the ground at a tremendous pace, and were long-winded as well. The Duke was asked to say which coloi.i he wished to see sorted out, and he chose black. In a very few minutes a dozen or more big black beeves had been cut out. The sport seemed so fascinating that Viscount Crichton expressed Queen0lan& 20 1 a desire to try his hand at ii. He was forthwith pro- vided with a mount, and Lord Lamingtoii too joining in, both were soon in the thick of the herd. It was hot work, for the cattle conrsed all over the paddock, and some which broke right away afforded a splendid ch'ie. Lord Crichton was soon glad to discard his o at, and the party laughed heartily as they watched t'.e tall Guardsman in his shirt-sleeves galloping in ^.nd out among the now fairly excited cattle, brandishing his stockman's whip as to the manner born. The fun Quecncland. Bnih PIcnlc-RouRdliiK up Cattto was infectious, and a minute or two later Sir Arthur Bigge was in the saddle also with his coat off and as Amateur ^"^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^' "ow many more Stockmen amateur stockmen would have been forth- coming it is impossible to say, for the train arrangements allowed a halt of only an hour or so, and the engine was snorting impatiently on the track! The " billy tea," moreover, claimed its share of aiten- tion, and was not to be despised after these strenuous exertions. So the cattle were left to their own rumina- tions upon the utility of such untimely incursions, while I ' WJ 202 Vbe d^ueen's Misb the reassembled guests picniced under the spreading branches of a tall tree. The tea and damper were most acceptable. The water had been boiled in a kerosene tin, but the ordinary bushman's tin " billy " was super- " Billy Tea" ^^^^'^ ^^^ ^^^ moment by a silver teapot. and Damper, ^^e Royal servants found their occupa- tion temporarily gone. Having nothing better to do, they felled a couple of trees. The station hands had taken their places, and for once in their lives had the honour of helping Royalty to their own daily simple fare. Truth to tell, it was pronounced by all delicious, even to palates jaded with luxuries, and the general verdict was that life in the bush had its attrac- tions from an epicurean as well as a sporting standpoint. By this time it was almost dark, and the snapshot of the scene which I secured is certainly not a good photo- graph. But I reproduce it because I am under the im- pression that it was the only one taken. It shows the Duchess seated on a kerosene tin covered with a rug, and a station hand in the act of offering her a piece of damper. The Duke sat upon a log. Mr. Frank Ramsay played the part of host. Thoroughly delighted with these unconventional entertainments, the Royal party returned to the train at a quarter-past five, and the southward journey was resumed. At Wallangarra, the border station, where we ar- rived at half-past ten, the complement changed over again to the New South Wales train, Lord Lamington and Mr. Rutledge, who had convoyed their Royal Highnesses thus far, taking their leave and returning to the Queensland capital. Mr. Rutledge, in bidding adieu, asked the Duke to accept three sapphires, speci- mens of Queensland gems, mounted in gold scarfpins. His Royal Highness, in return, presented the acting Premier with portraits of himself and the Duchess, assurmg him that they had both greatly enjoyed their sojourn in beautiful Queensland. view Soutb males ao3 It was noon on Saturday when the train reached Newcastle. At the station, to welcome them on their MeweutI*. ^"^^^^ officially in New South Wales, were the Governor General, Lord Hopetoun, the Lieutenant-Governor, Sir Frederick Darley, the Premier, Mr. See, and the Mayor of Newcastle. The weather was Queensland. A Bush PIcnic-Bllly Tea and Damper radiant and warm, like a day in an English August. Of course a drive round the town formed part of the pro- gramme. And a right cordial welcome Newcastle had prepared. The streets, windows, balconies, ? i roofs were swarming with jubilantly loyal spectatois. Con- spicuous among the mottoes was " Many Happy Returns of the Day," a happy reminder of the fact that Sunday 204 TCbe aitteen'9 XSlidb was the birthday of Her Royal Highness. Another, equally hearty, ran " We trust You will have a Good Time in sunny New South Wales." The cheerin{^ was continu- ous and enthusiastic, and the passage of the Royal caval- cade through the thriving seaport afforded unalloyed satisfaction to many thousands who might never other- wise have set eyes on the King's heir. Another short railway run brought the Royal party to Hawkesbury at three o'clock. Hither the Ophir had come to meet their Royal Highnesses and convey them round to Sydney. But, since they were not due in the capital till Monday, the opportunity was embraced to spend a quiet Sunday amid the lovely scenery of the Hawkes- bury River. On leaving the train, therefore, the Duke and Duchess proceeded at once on board the stern-wheel steamer General Gordon, which carried them to the Ophir. The Duchess on Sunday was the recipient of many congratulatory telegrams from all quarters on the occasion of her birthday. That there were affec- tionate messages from home goes without saying. From Melbourne came a telegram of respectful good wishes, sent by Mr. Barton, in the name of the Commonwealth Government. To this Her Royal Highness replied, " I deeply appreciate the kind congratulations from yourself and Federal Ministry." Both in the Op'iir and the British cruisers the event was duly celebrated, and the foreign warships in Sydney Harbour — the Russian Gromovoi and the German Moeve — fired salutes. The triumphal entry into Sydney took place on Mon- day, May 27. The Ophir weighed anchor at half-past eight o'clock, and, escorted by the Juno, Harbour. headed for Port Jackson. She was joined outside by the St. George and the vessels of the Australian Squadron — the Royal Arthur, Wallaroo, -nd Ringarooma — which had steamed out from Sydney to meet her. The Government yacht Victoria, with the Kaay Happy Betum. flew Sotttb Males ao5 Premiers, Ministers, and members of the State and Fed- eral Parliaments on board, had also come out. It was, therefore, with an imposing escort that the Royal yacht made her appearance in the finest ha: hour in the world. The squadron, which arrived at eleven o'clock, was in the formation of single line ahead. As it passed in Athol Bight the Russian warship Gromovoi — which had been sent expressly by the Tsar to welcome her, as she had already done at Melbourne — the big cruiser belched forth flame and smoke in a Royal salute that completely enve- 1 1 Wk A ^p ^P ^^ i^^l. .!■■ ^^ ^4 1 m 5ydney. The "Ophir' cnterlnx the Harbour with the Ouke and Duchei* of York loped her in clouds of murky grey. The Ophir and the British cruisers responded by hoisting the Russian flag at the main. Traffic in the harbour had been suspended an hour before the squadron's arrival, but there were many excursion steamers crowded with sightseers in the various bights. At Bradley's Head the boys of the training- ship Sabroan manned the rocks and cheere ; vociferously. When the inner harbour was reached, the welcome was taken up by great crowds lining the foreshore and massed upon the promontory known as Mrs. Macquarie's Chair. • 11 ao6 TCbe aiueen'0 mtsb / I l! All the ships in the port were dressed. As soon as the Ophir's anchor went down, the Earl of Hopetoun, Sir Frederick Darley, and the Captain of the Gromovoi, boarded her and were received by the Duke, Mr. Barton and Mr. See following a little later. Sydney on this occasion was very much in the posi- tion of a person who keeps a birthday twice within six Tht itmuuj '"°"*hs. She had already in the beginning Fitas. of the year rejoiced exceedingly and held high festival over the birth of the Com- monwealth. The Inaugural Celebrations, which began in the New South Wales capital on New Year's Day, and in which representatives of all the other States participated, were a nine-days' wonder. There were processions^ banquets, decorations, illuminations, a review, sports, concerts, excursions, and junketings of every description, the like of which had never been seen before in Australia! And here was an equally notable occasion for festivity come round in less than half a year, with Melbourne's magnificent demonstrations and munificent hospitality to be lived up to. Right well did the city acquit heiself. The adornments in which she was arrayed may have been less lavish than those of January, but they were beautiful and imposing. From the far more important standpoint of loyalty and hearty goodwill, the citizens soon showed how well they could hold their own. The landing at two o'clock was a fine spectacle. The barge which conveyed their Royal Highnesses ashore passed through a double line of ships' boats, manned by blue-jackets, who saluted by raising their oars aloft. The heights and charming grounds overlooking Farm Cove were black with people. The guns of all the ships gave tongue, announcing to the city and far beyond that the bearers of the Queen's message were coming. Bells were pealing joyously, and the cheering from the sailors, from the occu- pants of shoals of small boats, and from the immense Sydney's Wel- come. Itew Sotitb malee aoj concourse ashore, was incessant. On the landing-stage were the Governor-General, the Federal and State Pre- miers, the L:cutenant-Governor, the Ministers, the Speaker of the Assembly, Mr. W. M'Court, the Mayor, Dr. James Graham, and numerous other public officials. The Pre- sident of the Ugislative Coun-il, Sir John Lackey, who had been invalided, was also present, though he was obliged to remain in his carriage at the top of the steps. On the landing-stage was a graceful canopied pavilion, or rather portal, decked with flowers, ferns, and other foliage, surmounted by a crown, and flanked by white columns. Here the customary presentations took place, the Governor-General doing the honours. When the artillery guard of honour had been inspected, their Royal Highnesses ascended a steep flight of crimson-carpeted stairs and entered a state carriage drawn by four horses, with outriders, and the members of the suite having taken their places in three staff carriages, the progress through The Proeeuion. ^^^ ^^'"^^^ ^^^ begun. The Duke wore his ' rear-admiral's uniform, with the ribbon of the Garter ; the Duchess, as usual, was in black, with a black ostrich-feather boa. The procession was headed by Mounted Police, followed by two squadrons of Mounted Rifles. Ne:.t came the carriages containing the suite. The state landau in which the Imperial envoys rode formed the centre of the pagent. It was escorted by a dashing contingent of New South Wales Lancers. The Headquarter Staff" rode next, then the balance of the Mounted Rifles, a squadron of the First Australian Horse, with the band of the regiment, the balance of the New South Wales Lancers, with their band, the guard of honour of R.A. Artillery, who were also accompanied by their band, bringing up the rear. The route, which was three miles long, intersected and compassed the entire city. At intervals bandc were stationed, all playing, as the cortege swept along, the same old national hymn. I wonder how many thousands of times it was played and 3o8 XTbc (aueen'0 MUb sung in the course uf the tour ! Owing to the great length of the itinerar)-, the crowds were comfortably dis- tributed, yet in the heart of the city there were many dense throngs, and the perspective of tei ;e eager faces at wide-open windows, on sidewalks, on balconies, and on roofs, which greeted the eyes of the Duke and Duchess at every turn, a perspective animated all the while by the A a t Ov ^^'"^'"K of hats, handkerchiefs, and flags, to tioa. the accompaniment of resounding huirahs and the strains of " God Save the King," constituted a tribute of loyalty and affection which the Heir Apparent never wearied in gratefully acknowledging. The most notable feature of the decorations was the "Court of Empire" which had been set up in Martin _.._,- Place. It was composed of twenty-four white Empire. columns, each represei tmg a British de- pendency, and at either end the Court was closed in by a handsome arch, one bearing in letters of gold the superscription, " Greetings from a United People to their Royal Highnesses," and the other, which was dedicated to the Commonwealth, the words, " Long Life and Happiness to Lord and Lady Hopetoun." Hridge Street had been converted into an "Avenue of Nations" by means of masts bearing the arms and flags of all the countries of the world, each topped by a gilded dove carrying an olive branch, l-'estoons and garlands were everywhere. In Bligh Street was an arch in honour of the K'ng, surmounted by the Royal Arms and Standard, and bearing the motto " Vivat Rex," and at the junction of Pitt and Hunter Streets were a couple of imposing obelisks, with a banner suspended between them, on which was inscribed the greeting, " God Bless the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York." In yueen's Square, affixed to the statue of her late Majesty, was a great wreath of white and purple flowers. Macquarie Street terminated in an arch covered with greenery at Govern- ment House gates, with the word " Welcome." «ew Soutb THDatea ,0^ Though the weather was overcast and threatening^, th. h» ^ ^^ procession was not marred by the heavy downpour which came a few hours later and Sydney. The Court of Empire spoiled the evening for many thousands of holidav- makers mtent upon seeing the illuminations, which were really exceptionally fine. The Lands Offic; tower wa he can ral feature, but the Town Hail, the Post Office the Custom House, the Railway Station, and the Harbou; O aio Vbe aitieen'8 TOtob Trust Offices, not to mention hundredn of private houses and business premises, were illuminated in such a way as to form a constellation of surpassing brilliance. There were other opportunities, however, of which the public fully availed themselves, to view the city in all its efTul- gence during these memorable evenings. There was a dinner party at Government House, to which the Lieutenant-Governor, Miss Darley and Captain Darley, .Admiral and Mrs. Beaumont, the Earl of Kan- furly, Governor of New Zealand, the Archbishop of Sydney and Miss Snowdon Smith, the Premier and Mrs. See, the Attorney-General and Mrs. Wise, and the Mayor and Mayoress were invited. The political significance of these popular manifesta- tions was summed up next day by the Sydney Morning Herald in the following passage which I and ft Mmm<«. *l"ote from its leading article, and which may he taken as an authoritative interpreta- tion of the lesson and the message which the vox populi intended to proclaim. " Since the Duke and Duchess left English shores they have touched at several widely divergent possessions of the Empire. The far-reaching power of the British rule has unfolded itself before them as in some impressive panorama in which the Medievalism of Malta and the Orientalism of Colombo or Singapore have given way to the new world of modern ideas and progress which the race has transplanted into this hemisphere. Later on, as the Royal tour progresses, other developments of interest will have place in their proper order. But the dramatic feature of this revelation, if we may so call it, is the con- trast between the Asiatic life of the possessions from which their Royal Highnesses have just come and the British atmosphere and institutions regnant in the States com- prised in that portion of the Royal tour which our dis- tinguished guests are now making. The acquisition of territory is a triumph of national achievement ; but it is Hew Sotttb TPnale^ an a small thinR bc-side this rccrc-aticn of a new Britain in another hemisphere. The demonstration in Sydney ye er day e„brmed a row of neat little squares in the distance against a background of low sandy hills, with the blue waters of ;iie lagoons beyond. The Duchess, accompanied by the Countess of Ho|H;toun, drove on to the ground with an escort of Lancers punctually at noon, and the Duke, with Lord HojH-toun and the staff, rode past a few minutes later. Hoth their Royal Highnesses had an enthusiastic reception. The review was preceded by an interesting ceremony. His Royal Highness l>est<>wed Tha Oa ' "P"" Lieutenant Dufrayer the " Queen's l«arf. scarf," in khaki colour, for distinguished service in South Africa. The scarf was one of four knitted by the late Queetj for presentation to men who should be chosen from the English, Scottish, Irish, and Colonial troops. It was ornamented with the Royal monogram in embroidery. Lieutenant Dufrayer, who had gone to the war as a simple troo|x:r and earned his commission, had been L-lecteci by his corps as the re- cipient of this signal distinction. The Duke, who was mounted, handed him the scarf amid tremendous cheer- ing, and when the Governor-General jumped off his charger and adjusted tho>n. °! ^\ Michael and St. George, and upon IT • u. « . , ^^y^*"' ^^' Graham, the rank of a Knight Bachelor. In the afternoon, the Duke inspected the Royal Naval House, a club for thei men of the Aus- tralian and visiting squadrons. He examined all the appomtments and arrangements with keen professional mterest, and expressed his pleasure and satisfaction that such excellent accommodation should have been provided for the humbler members of the service with which he has from his boyhood been identified. The Duke and Duchess honoured the Lieutenant-Governor with their company at a dinner party given in Parliament House. Thursday. May 30, was devoted to an inspection of the Naval Depdt on Garden Island, in the forenoon-when the A HaTsl ^"'^^ planted a fig tree as a souvenir of his BpeetMle. visit— and a naval review and mimic battle * .u u- i-",*'^^ afternoon. The boats belonging to the ships of the Australian Squadron, some forty in number, manoeuvred and made an attack on their own vessels. As they approached, the ships opened fire to repel the assault. Some of the boats, which were armed with small quick-firing guns, replied, while others, under cover of a rifle fire, made a dash and attempted to board the warships. The operation was, of course, impossible in modern warfare, but the spectacle in the bright sunshine ma^e a fine show for the thousands who watched it from the shore. There was a second reception at Government House in the evening. Next day there were two important ceremonies, one following immediately upon the other. In the forenoon the Duke and Duchess, accompanied by the Countess of Hopetoun and the suite, drove to the Prince Alfred Hos- pital, and His Royal Highness laid the commemorative stone of the Queen Victoria Memorial Pavilions. Pro- fessor Anderson Stuart read an address, reminding the Dew Soutb Males 317 Duke that the Hospital was founded in 1873, and that Memorial to '" *®^^' ^'*''® '* ^^* ^^''^ >" course of Qntu YIetorla. construction, His Royal Highness was the first to sign the register. Since that time the Hospital had alleviated ' an immense amount of dis- tress, steadily growing in usefulness, and the new wing which it had been found necessary to build was dedicated to the name of Victoria the Good. The Duke, having laid the stone, using a presentation trowel of gold with a myallwood handle, said— " It is with deep satisfaction that the Duchess and I have taken part in this interesting ceremony; for, in the Family luoei- '''"**. P'**^®' ^ ^''°"^** ^^^^ ^o hope that atioBk possibly our presence here to-day may conduce, even though in the smallest de- gree, to the advancement of the splendid work which has already beer accomplished by the Prince Alfred Hos- pital. Then I am proud to think that whether I turn to the past history of the hospital or try to look into its future, I find a close association with it and my family. His Majesty the King is its patron. It found its birth in the loyal outburst of thankfulness on the part of the people of New South Wales for the recovery of my dear uncle, the Duke of Edinburgh, from the result of a dangerous attack upon his life. In the title, 'Queen Victoria Memorial Pavilions,' which you have chosen for the new buildings, the foundation-stone of which I have had the honour of laying to-day, you identify them for ever with the imperishable memory of our late dearly beloved Sovereign. I doubt whether under the circum- stances any more fitting memorial to that great life could have been chosen, for sympathy with the suffering was an all-pervading element in the noble and beautiful character of her who was your first patron, and with whose name the hospital will now be associated for all time. Another personal connection exists in the fact that twenty years ago my dear brother and I visited the hospital, then unopened. V 31 2l8 Jibe Queen Misb /, and that to-day I have been allowed to inaugurate what will be the completion of the originally conceived scheme. Since that time the hospital, thanks to excellent administration, combined with a zealous and able staff, has achieved results which have earned commendation from a competent hospital authority, who spoke of it as one of the best managed institutions in the world. As an example, I merely mention that since it was opened in 1883, some 188,000 people have received medical treat- ment from it either as in-door or out -door patients. The rapidly growing population of your city brings an ever daily increasing demand to such an establishment, and it is hoped that these new additions will meet the further present requirements for greater accommodation. I am glad to learn that, thanks to the generosity of the public , the necessary funds are now almost guaranteed. I feel confident that you will gladly join with me in offering hearty congratulations to Professor Anderson Stuart and his brother directors, for such liberal support may be taken as a proof of recognition by the Government and the community at large of the inestimable benefits which have been conferred on your suffering fellow-creatures by the institution whose direction was fortunately left in their hands." (Cheers.) A hearty round of cheers was given for the Duke and Duchess as they drove away after the ceremony. From the Hospital the party drove to the Univer- sity, where His Royal Highness was to receive the Another Oegr...*l^«'^°^ h-^'^- ^^^"^ ^^^^ ^"'^^^ there they found the great hall crowded with an audience which was impatiently awaiting their appearance. Melbourne had given the Duke, as a candi- date for academic honours, a boisterous reception, and Sydney was determined to go one better. On the plat- form was the Archbishop of Sydney, the Speaker of the Legislative Assembly, the Premier, Mr. See, the Federal Premier, Mr. Barton, Sir W. Lyne, Mr. Perry, Mr. Wise, HKew Sotttb Males ai9 j^ and other Ministers. But the presence of these exalted personages, or of the Heir Apparent himself, in no way restrained the exuberance of the undergraduates, who were bent upon giving the Duke a traditional students' wel- come. There were, to begin with, the usual topical songs, choruses, mock sermons, and burlesques of state and academic ceremonies, and the noise drowned the loudest tones of the organ. A temporary break in these quizzical proceedings was caused by the entrance of the Duchess, accompanied by the Countess of Hopetoun and Lady Mary Lygon. Her Royal Highness was escorted to a front seat in the body of the hall, and presented with a bouquet by two girl graduates, while the National Anthem was sung and unlimited cheering indulged in. The musical honours were then resumed. Meanwhile the Duke was inspecting the guard of honour furnished by the University Volunteer Rifle Corps. This done, he was received by the Chan- cellor and Professors. Having assumed the red academic robes. His Royal Highness passed down the middle of the hall and ascended the platform, taking his seat on the Chancellor's right. A verse of the National Anthem was AcMlemio Ex- *""^' *"'^ *'^^" *^® " Gaudeamus Igitur." ubenmoe. ^^^ necessary formalities prior to the pre- sentation of degrees were rendered in- audible by the singing of " John Brown's Body " and other choruses. The chief musical number, however, was one specially composed for the occasion and entitled "The Coming of the Duke." It was sung to the tune of " A Life on the Ocean Wave." The concluding stanza ran : — llut when he at length appears, The welkin we ahall arouse, By giving the Jook three cheers, And three for his charming spouse. And every Undergrad, With a throat to call his own, Will not overlook the Dad, Who is minding the kids at home. ■Ik 330 TTbe ((ueen'd Wiisb Chorus. — Let every man with a voice, His power of lung display, Yell loudly and rejoice, For the Jook is coming to^ay ; The Jook — the Jook — the Jook is coming to-day. The Jook— the Jook — the Jook is coining to-day. The poetry was certainly very bad, but the sentiment was unexceptionable, and the effusion greatly amused their Royal Highnesses, while the cheers which it invoked were stentorian. The degree was conferred upon the Duke to the accompaniment of " For He's a Jolly Good Fellow." The unruly chaff and the din of voices eclipsed the corresponding ebullition in Melbourne, but there was no mistaking the heartiness of the cheery students' intentions. In the evening their Royal Highnesses attended a Citizens' State Concert in the Town Hall, which was Cltl 'Cob rt. '^'"°^^®^ ^'^^ the most distinguished and representative audience it had ever held. The three leading musical societies of the city co- operated in making the concert an artistic as well as a social success. These were the Amateur Orchestral Society, conducted by Mr. Sydney Moss ; the Liedertafel, under Mr. Alfred Hill; and the Philharmonic Society, of which Mr. J. A. Delaney was conductor. The first mentioned gave the overture from Tannhauser, the second a couple of part songs, and the Philharmonic Society Handel's " Hallelujah Chorus." Mr. Joseph Massey was the organist, and the vocalists were Madam Belle Cole, Mdlle. Antonia (Trebelli) Dolores, and Mr. Phillip Newbury. Madam Helle Cole sang "Creation's Hymn " (Beethoven) with orchestral accompaniment, Mdlle. Dolores " Let Me Wander not Unseen " (Handel), and Mr. Newbury "The Message" (Blumenthal). The general arrangements were under the direction of Mr. Gerard Coventry, of Her Majesty's Theatre. At the close of the musical programme, to which their Royal Dew Sotttb Mates 331 ^ k 1,100 Wu Madali. picturesque, whom were HiRhnesses listened with evident pleasure and interest, frequently leading the applause, the Mayor, Sir James Graham, presented the Duke with the Citizens' souvenir, which took the form of a beautifully bound volume of views. Before the Royal party withdrew, the artists, musical societies, organ, and audience, combined in rendering the National Anthem with an effect that was at once impressive and magnificent. Saturday morning was occupied by the distribution ■ of some 1,400 war medals to volunteers who had returned from South Africa. The cere- mony took place in Govern nt House grounds, and was both interesting and It lasted about an hour. The men, among several still limping from wounds, were a splendid body, the fine fleur of the best fighting material in the Empire, representative in every way of the Colonial forces which had earned from Lord Roberts the encomium "Soldiers, and gentlemen everywhere." With two of the officers the Duke paused to chat. One was Captain Watson, who was the first man to enter Pretoria when the Transvaal capital surrendered. The other was Captain Robertson, who wore a medal with several clasps, a badge of gallant service of which on all such occasions His Royal Highness punctiliously took notice. Nurses Martin and Woodward also received medals. In the case of men who had died, the medals were sent to their next-of-kin. The Duke was after- wards shown the sword of honour which had been sub- scribed for by the people of Australia for presentation to General Baden Powell in commemoration of his famous defence of Mafeking. The weapran, which was richly chased, cost ;f400. There was a garden party at Govern- ment House in the afternoon, which was attended by th ; members of both Houses of the State Legislature. On Trinity Sunday, their Royal Highnesses attended morning service at St. Andrew's Cathedral. The Arch- i 222 tbe omecn'B Miab / b- hop of Sydney, Dr. Saumare/ Smith, preached from the text " Have faith in God." Mondiiy. the 3rd of June, was the Duke's thirty- sixth birthday, and was observed as a public holiday. Th« Dnka'i ^^*^ *^'P* '" *^^ harbour were dressed. Birthday. »"'-go-round, there were aeriel flights from the after-bridge to the upper deck, lucky tubs, one with coins in water charged with electricity, while the band supplied music for dancing, and tea was served on a long row of tables under awnings. The party, which was favoured with beautiful weather, was a huge treat for the youngsters. r CHAPTER V SKW ZEALAND AND TASMANIA T^XACTLY a month had been spent in Australia, f \ and when the hour of departure came there were universal congratulations upon the triumphant ji.wcss which had attended the visit. The next stage 'vas New Zealand, and a four days' voyage afforded a wel- .-^ come respite from an exacting round of *lMlMid. public ceremonies. The Ophir, in which their Royal Highnesses re-embarked in the forenoon, sailed for Auckland on Thursday, June 6. She was convoyed outside the Heads by the Government yacht Victoria, with the Ministers and Members of Parliament on board. The Juno and St. George formed the escort. Rather dirty weather was experienced at first, but F-'riday and Saturday were magnificently fine. Fog was encoun- tered on Saturday night, and the squadron slowed down to ten knots; but this did not prevent its arrival at Auck- land, ahead of time, on the morning of the tenth.* i he "Naples of the South," unfortunately, was not wreathed in the sunny smiles in virtue of which she holds the title. The thick mists which obscured the coast were reminis- cent rather of " Caledonia stern and wild." Off the North Head the Ophir was met by the six ships of the Australian Squadron. The local steam and sailing fleet, filled with excursionists, also came out to welcome her. Their Royal Highnesses remained on board, as the official landing and reception were not till the following day. At ten o'clock on Tuesday, June ii, the Ophir and her escort slipped their moorings off the North Head and steamed into the inner harbour. There had meanwhile n6 Mew Scalatid M7 been a complete traniformation in the weather, which *itf1 ai ^"' * ''"®^ interval was brilliant, and the scene in the Waitemata, alive with gaily- decorated craft, was extremely pretty. New Zealand's first welcome to the Heir Apparent and his Consort lacked nrthing of the fervour that was "DatlMklatf *° ^ expected of so staunchly loyal and Ufijttf.- vigorous a race. Auckland was en/ttt and thronged with visitors, who had been flock- ing into the city by rail and steamer from all quarters for days past. The outburst of enthusiasm when their Royal Highnesses landed in the afternoon rivalled the demon- strations of Melbourne and Sydnev. Prior to the landing an address of welcome was presented by the Premier, Mr. Seddon, in the drawing-room of the Opkir, the Go- ven- r, Lord kanfurly, and mt-mbers of the Ministry being present. It t. »ntained assurances of " the continual attach- ment and devotion of the people of the land of the moa and pounamu ' to the King, and " their unflinching loyalty to the Throne and Constitution," addinp ; " We beg with pleasure to inform your Royal Highness.^ that the people of both races are living in amity together, and that the noble Maori race now realise present coi .litions and en- vironments, and are taking part in self-gov. rnment. They are loyal, happy, contented, and increasing u numbers." The address was accompanied by a superb casket in the form of a Maori war canoe manned by seven boatmen AHMriTroBhy. *^^'''">'''^ ^'^^^ P»Ues at the salute. The * base was ( )mpc of various New Zealand woods, flanked by greenj,tone piilars, each of the latter surmounted by a ki i, New Zeal .nd's wingless bird, in oxidised silver, while the Ro\ al Arm- on one side and those of the State (.n th'? other were enwilazoned in gold and enamel. Thi hij-.ily artistic production was the work of Mr. Frank H\ im , of London and Dunedin. The Duke in .cknowledgment said : " Mr. Seddon and gentlemeii, —On ichaif of the Duchess and myself I thank aa8 Vbe Qtteen'9 TlOlfsb you and the people of New Zealand most sincerely for the hearty welcome you offer us, and for your sympathetic reference to the loss we have sustained through the death of our beloved and ever-lamented Queen — a loss which we share with the whole Empire. On behalf of the King, my dear father, I desire also to thank you for the assur- ances of the continued attachment and devotion of the people of New Zealand to his Throne and person, and of their unflinching loyalty. Of that loyalty they have already given most signal proofs. The readiness and promptitude with which the Government and people of New Zealand sprang to the assistance of the Mother Country in the struggle — still unhappily proceeding — in South Africa will ever be remembered with gratitude by His Majesty and the people of the United King- dom. Your action in that matter has proved to the world that your appreciation of the benefits you enjoy as citizens of the British Empire, will, whenever the occasion arises, be shown by deeds, not words, and that you are prepared to share in the responsibility of maintaining the glorious traditions and heritage which are your birthright as much as that of the people of the Motherland. I am glad to learn that the inhabitants of New Zealand are prosperous and happy, and that the Maoris, whose num- bers are now increasing, are living in complete amity with their fellow subjects, and are co-operating with them in the work of self-government. The inclusion in this Colony of the Co'/k and other islands — a step which, I under- stand, has the full concurrence of their inhabitants — will, with the same wise and sympathetic system of govern- ment which has secured the contentment and happiness of the Maoris, I have no doubt, be of lasting advantage to the people of those islands. I regret that the brief period of our stay will prevent us from seeing as much as we could wish of the many beauties and natural phe- nomena of your islands, but we shal- surely > with us the most pleasant and lasting recollections . . warmth new Zealand sag and cordiality of our reception, and of your kindness and good wishes on our behalf." The Duchess graciously accepted from Miss Ruby Seddon, daughter of the Premier, a shower bouquet of An Hiitorio ^^'*^ ^°^^ ^"^ violets. Her Royal High- 81^. "ess on stepping ashore touched the key of a telegraph instrument and so transmitted to the farthest parts of the Colony the news that the Imperial envoys had set foot in New Zealand. This was PhMfhy ftrmUtim cf Mtftrs. Wtsl and Snt. .V<.i.M«« ) Anckland. Tha a«vernment Casket the pre-arranged signal for the hoisting of flags and the firing of salutes everywhere in honour of the event. Another bouquet was presented by Miss Kidd, daughter of the Chairman of the Harbour Board. The city's formal welcome took place at the end of the The CIty't Wei- ^^^^'"^^ ^^^^""^ stands had been erected and eoma. ^ S""^^* concourse had assembled. The promise of better weather was not ful- filled, for rain had begun to fall. Their Royal Highnesses ^1 230 TCbe dtueen's Mfsb appeared upon the dais enveloped in waterproofs. The Governor introduced the venerable Mayor, Dr. john Logan Campbell, who presented the civic address. This meeting was a very notable one. It carried behol Jers, and His Royal Highness too, back to the earliest begin- nings of the Colony. For Dr. Campbell was not on'y the Father of the city, whose Mayor he had been fifty years before, but a pioneer who had settled in the land when it was in the undisputed possession of the warlike Maoris, and built with his own hands the cabin which for years was his home. It was the unanimous wish of his fellow citizens that Dr. Campbell, who was in his eighty-third year, should emerge from his well-earned retirement and resume office for the express purpose of greeting tiie King's son on the occasion of his historic visit to — as he himself expressed it when reinvested with the Mayoral chain, after an interval of half a century — " the fair city which I have lived to see grow from a few tents and breakwind huts on the fern-clad shores of Waitemata to the stately city of to-day— the future Queen and Capital of all the federated isles of Oceana." The Duke, in his reply, had the grateful task of announcing an extension of the colonial territory b^ the AnBiUMlonof '"^°'^P*^'^^^'°" °^ ^^^ ^°°^ Islands with Territory. ^^^^' ■Zealand, which was about to be pro- claimed formally by the Governor. His Royal Highness, speaking in a loud, clear voice which could be heard by thousands, said : " It is with a feeling of intense satisfaction that, after our long journey, we have at last set foot in your country, which we both have always been so anxious to visit. It is especially interesting to me that the first ceremony in which I take part should be to hear His Excellency the Governor read, by the King's command, the proclamation anno-mcing the incorporation of the Cook Islands with New Zealand." The cheers which greeted those words were loud and prolonged. Lord Ranfurly read the proclamation amid Dew Zcalan^ 331 renewed and continued plaudits. His Excellency then called for cheers for the King, and Mr. Seddon led off rounds for the Queen and the Duke and Duchess. KtfrihiiHtd hy ^t mtsUym from ,1 />fi»t»x tday not only you fine old soldiers, who, after serving your Queen in various campaigns, chose your homes in New Zealand, but also your sons, who, inherit- ing the gallant spirit of their fathers and keen to emulate their deeds, have, when their turn came, cheerfully given their services in defence of the old flag. (Loud cheers.) Yes, I say I am proud to be addressing two generations of soldiers. I like what my friend Mr. Seddon would call your 'continuity of policy.' (Laughter and cheers.) There is nothing like a chip of the old block — (a voice : ' You're one yourself ! ' laughter and great cheering) — when one knows that the old block was hard, of good grain, and sound to the core — (cheers) — and if in the future, whenever and wher- ever the mother hand is stretched across the sea it can reckon on a grasp such as New Zealand has given in the present — well, I think you will all agree with me that the dear Old Country can look ahead with con- fidence. (Loud cheers.) It was a most pleasant duty to me to present, on behalf of the King, the South African medals to those I see at the other end of the hall to-day. (Cheers.) May you live to wear the decora- tions as long as, I am glad to see, your seniors here present have worn theirs. (Cheers.) May every blessing be given to you all — soldiers old and young. (Cheers.) I will now ask you to drink the toast of the veterans, and also those troopers who have returned from South Africa." (Loud and prolonged cheers.) Lord Ranfurly, replying to the toast of his health, proposed by Mr. Seddon, said the visit of the Duke and Duchess was far shorter than the heart of the people desired, and he felt sure they would all say the same thing if their Royal Highnesses stayed for a year. Ten veterans were presented to the Duke, several of them, in their eagerness to share so distinguished an honour, jumping over the table or crawling under it on •Jl Vbe ^neen'f mwb handf and knees. The fint man. Rowley HiU. who had ■erved with Garibaldi, took part in the relief of Luck- A Trtiaien "°*'' *** ^°"' "'^e naval and military •f m. medali. Though lixty-ieven years of age, he had twice volunteered for South Africa, and m the course of the luncheon he extracted from Mr. Seddon a pledge that if an eighth contingent were formed he should be sent with it. " Your hand upon It. sir," he exclaimed, springing to his feet and reachmg across the table. The grasp demanded to seal the baigam was exchanged. The second veteran pre- sented was Captain Daveney. who. as an Inniskilling Dragoon, was in the charge of the Heavy Brigade at Balaclava. The remaining eight formed part of the guard of honour at Osborne on the occasion of Kinr Edward's wedding. At half-past three their Royal Highnesses drove to Parnell, a picturesque suburb on a high point overiooking the harbour, to lay the foundation-stone of the Queen Victoria School for Maori Giris, where primary and secondary education and training in domestic work, cookery, and nursing will be provided. A guard of honour of the Public School Cadets was present. At the entrance to the ground was a raised platform thronged with Maoris, the front ranks consisting of chiefs who have been educated at St. Stephen's School here. Many of these bore the title of " Rev.," having been ordained in the ministry by the Anglican, Wesleyan, or other churches. A large gathering had assembled to witness the ceremony, among those present being the Premier and other Ministers. The National Anthem was sung by a choir of Maori boys in the native tongue. Translations of several well- known English hymns were also rendered, and as their Royal Highnesses drove away after the ceremony, the Maori cry of welcome, now becoming daily familiar, was given. flew tttUmlb •99 The evening wu signalited by a dinner at Government HouM and a reception given by the Mayor in the Muni- cipal Buildings, which their Royal Highnesses attended. The city was superbly illuminated. In the next few days there was reserved for the Royal party a unique experience. They were to be spent among - the war-like, chivalrous, and romantic ll|!|^,^^ Maoris, who were preparing for them the most extraordinary demoMtration and the most marvellous spectacle of the tour. The rendezvous was Rotorua, and the journey thither by rail — a distance of i86 miles — afforded another of those pleasant inter- ludes which from time to time broke the monotony of the long sea voyages. Though the weather was overcast and showery, their Royal Highnesses enjoyed a view of some characteristic New Zealand scenery in its autumnal aspects, the train ascending through ridges of bush- wrapped mountains, to a point nearly 1,900 feet above the sea, and then re-descending to the region where the earth's crust is thinnest — the region of spouting geysers and boiling springs, over which sulphur-laden mists per- petually hover. There was a short stoppage at Mercer, where a crowd of Maoris, the majority women — for the men were at Rotorua, rei^earsing their "haka" — waved green twigs in token of Icyal respect, and cheered as lustily as bluejackets might have done. During a second halt, at Frankton, luncheon was served to the Duke and Duchess in the Royal saloon-car, and to the suite and guests, among whom were many naval officers from the squadron, in a wooden pavilion. A hundred children, in a grand stand, sang the National Anthem and " Sons of the Sea." The last part of the run was through thick bush and a wilderness of timber, interspersed with a wonderful wealth of beautiful tree-ferns. We passed the scenes of several bloody conflicts in the Maori war and great tracts desolated by forest fires, then suddenly emerged on a long stretch of gullies and ridges covered with bracken, seen .L •40 Vbe 4liieen'0 TPBUfb at a dUadvantage through heavy mitt and rain, as were hkew.«. the reaches of the picturesque Waikato river Rain was stiU falhnR fast when the train drew ud at Rotorua. but nothing so trivial as a drenching couM TiMllawlWel. .'^P *,*'«, ^f^^ouf of the martial Mauri, Mm». "tripped though he was in order to array himaelf in little more than his primitive war.,».nt for this great occasion. The ever- frieLdly and loyal Arawa tnbe had assembled in its might to greet tie good Queen's grandson, and its warriors and its women sang their song of welcome, their "powhiri." th^ men rhythnucally branHishing their wooden battle-axswrie the women waved green twigs. And this is what they sang, or rather ejaculated in stentorian shouts wi h a wTaLr """^^ ^"l ."' P^^^''^*^ f-'" infancy/and with all the conviction of immemorial tradition- for was .t not thus that they had been accustomed to geett^Tr most valiant and most victorious chiefs '- ** Haeremai, haeremai, haeremai ! Welcome, welcome, welcome ! Oh, welcome, ye itrangen from beyond the iky Welcome. Come to the Araw.i. Come to our canoe. Naumai, naumai, come hither to ui. Draw to the shore the Duke. Bring him hither to our canoe, To our waka, the Arawa, To our ihores, to our sky. A ha, ha I So that we may be uplifted ; That this canoe may have high honour Approach ye ; draw near us. Ob, welcome, welcome! Aue, au ! Au eha ! " The "A ha, ha" and "Au eha" were long-drawn Shfus eH V'^'^r^'l' '^^""^ *° ^"^^^^^ *hat nature haS exhausted herself in the expression of her fidelity. The song was accompanied by much stan.ping of feet and other gesticulations. ^ ^^ Hew Scauind 341 On the platform tlMsir Royal Hi|;hnesses were met by Majf»r Mair, wlio had led the friendly Maurics in battk- and was now in charf^e of their encampment. an«! by Captain Turner, Chftirnmn of the RotoruaTown Council, with whom were several of the leading chiefs. Miss Dorothv Turner KM Mate*. ChM P»l Draccr, liMlllariy kMwa •■ presented the Duchess with a bouquet 'TiM DuckaM' a bouquet. Outside the station was a guard of honour of the Wairarapa Mounted Rifles, the only native volunteer corps in the Colony, and other Maori contingents, with their bands. The songs of welcome continued while the Royal party entered the Q m^k 242 TCbe (fttteen'0 Wish Blblieal alo- qnenee. carriages in waiting and drove to the Grand Hotel, which had been set apart for their accommodation. They passed as they left the station an arch bearing the salutation " Kia ora tonu Korua " — " Long Life to you Two." Dark- ness had fallen, and the rain still descended in a steady drizzle. The route was a sea of mud. At the entrance to the hotel their Royal Highnesses were received by Mr. Carroll, the Native Minister, and after another song and dance of welcome from the excited natives, who had followed up the carriages and were now massed in the roadway, the Maori address, subscribed by all the tribes, was presented in the veranda. It was read by Mr. Car- roll, and was couched in a language almost Biblical in its figurative eloquence. I quote it textually : — " Welcome, welcome, welcome, O Son — Welcome to these islands, Aotearoa and Te Waipounamu, and wel- come to Maoriland. Welcome, thou who art of blood the emblem of the mana and the majesty of the Empire under whose benign rule we are proud to abide. O Royal daughter of princes, joined to him who is son of our Lord the King, we likewise greet you. We heard with our ears, and hoped that we might see. Now we see with our eyes, and rejoice that this thing has come to pass in our day and generation. This is a great day — a day that will live in the memory of our race while God gives them exist- ence. Yet it is a day of mourning. We mourn the great yueen to whom our fathers ceded by treaty the sove- reipfnty over these islands, who was the guardian of our rights and liberties from that time until she slept with her fathers. We, the humblest of her children, alien in blood, yet kin by law and allegiance, mourn the loss of a mother who studied the good of high and low alike, who loved peace, that by peace among her peoples they might rise yet higher in greatness. She was all that our fathers knew in their day. Pass, O mother, to rest with the mighty dead. Welcome, welcome, welcome — In the name flew Zealand 243 of the King, your father, we hail the new King in your person. He has succeeded to the throne of his mother to be our chief, our Lord and Sovereign. Here, in the presence of your Royal Highness, we renew our vow of allegiance; we confirn: the act of our fathers, and give all to Queen Victoria and her successors. Hear, O ye peoples ! To-day we make a new treaty— new, and yet old, masmuch as we confirm the loyalty of our generation and pray that our Sovereign and white brethren may give u^ their strength to live, strive with them, and join them Hear, O Prince ! From the far ends of the earth, from remote Hawaiki, across the great seas of Kira, you have come to see these lands and peoples. It is well, for by so domgyou have drawn closer the bonds of love which do knit us together. Welcome and farewell! Farewell, since you must pass on. We wish you a safe return to our King and his Queen, from whose presence you have come to gladden our eyes in this the most distant part of the Empire." The Duke, responding in language carefully adapted for translation in the same symbolical vein, spoke as Dnte'sSpMeh Allows:— "To the Chiefs and Tribes of tothcllMrii. *"e Isles Aotearoa and Waipounamu : Greeting. The warm words of welcome whicn you have spoken to the Princess and myself have gladdened our hearts. From the far ends of the earth, over the wide seas, we have been sent by the great King' my father, to hear and behold in their own beautiful land his children, the Maoris. The great Queen, whom yo,.r fathers knew and loved, and for whom you mourn with us and with all the nations and races under the mana and majesty of the Empire, had, before she passed to her rest decreed us to visit her peoples beyond the seas to tell of her gratitude for the aid of their brave young men in the cruel war unto which she, who ever loved and worked for peace, had been driven. Proud and glad was the great Queen that the sons of her Maori children, eager with e 2 244 Ubc dltteen's Mfsb love and loyalty, longed to stand side by side with their brethren in the field of battle. The King, my father, though his cup was full of sorrow, and the parting with us, his children, was added to its bitterness, would net endure that her wish should pass unfulfilled, and I come in her name and on her behalf to declare to you the deep thankfulness of his heart for your loving sympathy in his loss and for the noble and tender words in which you speak your reverence and love for her memory. The words of the Maoris are true words — the words of a gen- erous and chivalrous people, who are ready to make good with the hand the promise of the lips. To receive your pledges of loyalty, and to learn, through me, that you have here renewed your oath of allegiance and confirmed the act of your fathers, who gave all to Queen Victoria and her successors, will give joy to my father's heart, and will fill him with strength and courage for the great work that lies before him. The heart of the King is warm to his peoples in New Zealand. He rejoices to see them dwell together in peace and friendship, and prays that they may continue to be united and to strengthen each other in the works of peace, in striving for the common good, and in aiding him to keep one and united the man^- people under his sway. If our visit helps to that end we shall be glad, and count as nought the sacrifices we have made in order to see your chiefs and you face to face in your beautiful country. Of our brief visit to Maoriland we shall carry with us lasting memories of the loyalty and love and the generous kindness of the Maori people. May peace, prosperity, and every blessing abide with you and yours for ever." Mr. Carroll translated His Royal Highness's speech sentence by sentence as it was pronounced, and each The " Ntferi " P''''^^'-" ^^'^^ hailed with shouts of approval in the native tongue. At its conclusion, the "Ngeri," the great Maori war-song, was chanted, Mr. Carroll leading the hoarse cries as they rose and fell Hew Zealand 845 ^ a46 Vbe Qtieen'0 Wisb in their wild yet measured cadences. I have already once or twice referred to this old-time greeting, which kept recurring all through New Zealand as a sort of leit motif, but this seems the most appropriate point at which to quote and interpret it. " Ka mate, ka mate, Ka ora, Ka ora ! Tenei te tangata puhuruhuru, Mana Koe i tiki mai Whaka wbiti te ra ! Hupane, Kaupane ! Whiti te ra ! " A free and comprehensive translation would read — " It is death, it is death ; It is life, it is life ! All hail to the man whose followers are more numerous than the hairs upon his body, and who causes the sun to shine forth, shedding happiness and prosperity upon his people. The sun shines forth." By a remarkable coincidence, the joy-dispensing at- tributes ascribed to the King's son were apparently veri- "The 8aa ^!^'^' ^"'^ t''o"Sh the arrival took place amid Shines Forth." "vers of rain, the sun next morning was shining gloriously, and there was never a cloud on the horizon till His Royal Highness's departure, when wet weather, which had been the rule, again set in. Throughout the evening, there were illuminations and more instrumental music than had ever been heard in Rotorua before, supplied by the native and visiting bands. A long excursion by road to Waiotapu, which had been planned for Friday, June 14, had to be abandoned, owing to the heavy state of the route after the recent rains. The change of pro- gram ine enabled the Royal party to visit the village of Ohinemutu, on the shore of the lake, where a powhiri was given in their honour by the Arawa tribe. The warriors, to the number of about a thousand, as- sembled in the niarae in front of their carved meetin"- An Arawa Powhiri. flew Zealand 247 house. They were all bared to the waist and armed, the men with wooden axes, the chiefs with greenstone meres — hattleaxes, shaped like the blade of an oir and used for Rotonia. The Powhirl at the Queen'* Buit splitting the skulls of their enemies, a purpose for which they seemed admirably adapted. Some carried spears, and all wore feathers in their hair. Their arms and faces were tattooed and painted. Major Mair was in command Jfa '*-•— «#»«!ffli»!!^J M TCbe Queen's mtsb of the gathering, and the chiefs were headed by the venerable Major Fox (Pokiha Taranui), who received his commission for services rendered in the war against the Hauhaus. His tattooed features were partially concealed by a long flowing white beard. Having dragged himSelf from a bed of sickness, he for the most part remained seated and closely enveloped in a large kiwi mat, but his wrmkled right hand never relaxed its grip upon the sword he received many years ago as the Queen's reward for his loyalty and valour. Facing the meeting-house, on a ThcQaMa's ^'^^^^ pedestal shaded by an orniimental Burt. canopy, was the bust of Queen Victoria presented to the Arawas in 1871 by the late Duke of Edinburgh, and treasured by them as iin object of great veneration. The impending Royal visit caused the utmost excitement among the warriors, who spent the whole morning rehearsing their powhiri. At the entrance to the village the Duke and Duchess were met by a band of Poi girls, who, singing, dancing, and waving green twigs, preceded them into the marae, or enclosure, on three sides of which the warriors were ranged in a kneeling posture. The Poi girls' song of wel- come, by poetic licence, hailed the King's son as having landed on their shores from the arawa, the traditional war canoe from which the tribe derives its name. It was led by Kiri Matou, the chief Poi dancer, more familiarly known as " the Duchess." When their Royal Highnesses, surrounded by their suite, had taken their places in front of the carved house, "HMremat! ^^'^ powhiri began. The chant was accom- Haeremai!*' P^med by vigorous outward and upward movements of the arms and swayings of the whole body, and by stamping with the feet when ail up- stood, which struck one as being a singularly fine form of l)hysical drill, lungs and muscles being simultaneously exercised in fullest measure. At intervals the performers, who numbered about three hundred, seized their wooden flew Zealand 349 KIrl Matou DaaclBK ajo Qbe ^necn'a mitob axes and flourished them aloft, and at the end of each stanza every forehead was bowed to the earth with a pro- longed sigh-like exhalation. The chant had no tune, in the ordinary acceptation of the term. It rather consisted of shouting to the utmost extent oC every man's lung power, but in perfect unison and with rhythmic cadences that were almost musical, in a fierce, uncouth, barbaric way. The substance of the song was thus interpreted by those skilled in Maori lore— "Haeremail Haerenui 1 Weteome I Wek»ine ! to the Duke, Drawn hitherwards by the Arawa From the far boundaries of the tky. Welcome I Welcome I Approach us. Come to our marae. Come hither to see your people. Oh, 'tis the Duke sUnding here on land, Come to greet the Arawa, To meet us face to face And cross the sacred threshold of Houmaiuwhiti." The concluding words alluded to the visit the Royal party was about to pay to the carved meeting-house of the tribe. Thither the Duke and Duchess were escorted by Mr. Carroll, who explained the significance of the carvings by which the Maoris in these, their only temples, record the legends, rites, and martial achievements of their race. At the base of the Queen's statue the Duke and Duchess afterwards lingered for some minutes while gifts Mawl Oifti. ^^'"'^ '"^*^® *° ^^^"^ ^y the chiefs and chief- tainesses. These included greenstone meres, one of which was a greatly- prized wedding present from a South Island tribe to the chieftainess Rongokahira, a white kiwi-feather tea cosy, a muff of brown kiwi feathers, and a number of flaxen mats, in the making of which mfinite labour had been expended. The chief Pirimi Matoihaia, in offering these gifts under the shadow of the late Queen's statue, explained that it was a Maori custom so to commemorate loved ones who had passed away, and Hew Cealiin^ «5» ;• he asked their Royal High- nesses to carry the offerings home as tokens of the love the Maoris bore to the great white Queen who was no more. The Duke and Duch- ess, before leaving, walked round the ranks, inspecting the warriors, and conversed for a few moments with Major Fox, who proudly ex- hibited his sword of honoiir and offered his own green- stone mere as a special gift. Tlie Duchess, noticing how ill and feeble he looked, asked why he had not re- mained in bed. " My love is too strong," he replied, " I could not stay away."' A pleasant hour was after- wards spent in visiting the geysers and boil- ing springs of Whakarewarewa, one of the former being stimulated to full activity by Mr. Clark, Government Inspector, throwing in a few handfuls of shredded soap. The water spouted up to a height which was variou>,ly esti- mated at from fifty to a hundred feet. Amid the showers of spray and clouds of steam which the geyser dissemi- nated, their Royal Highnesses were conducted from point to point by the guides Sophia and Maggie, walking over rocky surfaces perforated at every step by holes and cracks through which the scalding sulphurous water was Among the Qtfutn. RotorHd. A Leader of the P»l Dane- int QlrU Smoking her Pip* H» Cbe ftneen'f mttb - i TiM OrMt bubbling up. On th« bridge the party paused to watch naked children of both lexes diving for coins into the stream belc.w. a venturesome performance which on this occasion >,elded a record harvest. In the afternoon an excursion was made by steamer to Tikitere. where more geysers and hot springs were seen, and though the return by coach was a somewhat rough expcr;uice owing to the muddy state of the roads, the outing was thoroughly enjoyed. The great event of the stay in Rotorua, however, was the haka, on Saturday, June 15, in which all the visiting tribes !■ irticiputed. It was a spectacle which had never beta sern on so grand a scale, and which will probably never be witnesse.1 again. For some of the tnlies had never nitit before, except in battle, with the single object of exterminating each other; and. since the observances are a survival of a state of things which is rapidly bcu.g swept away by the spread of ed-ication and the a "Wlkltorla." '^"?ents for the passing away of " Wiki Ngatlporon .ribrdhe'E". Ta^ ST" ^ """ ■"■" " And Tommy Boer is cornered ' Ah ! your tongue loIUd out in the day of your defiance, view Zealand But now your head is forced into the mud. I strive, I strive, I contend against Kruger ; He is my karaka-berry boiled red, ready for eating, In the eighth month of the ytar ; It is closed ! au — au ! li is open ! au — au ! Let the treacherous one flee away To the farthest depths of Africa, And turn as he flies And fearfully gaze at me ! " 357 The Haka— AwaltlB( the Challmte The lolling of the tongue referred to in the second line was a fearsome feature of the war-dance, as were also MMri Chivalry, mildly-rolling eyes and grotesquely-dis- ' torted visages. Mention has been made of Maori chivalry. One form it took was to supply the enemy with food, and even, if neces.ary, with weapons. This was regarded as a perfectly natural and logical pro- ceeding, for if the other side had no food or weapons, how could they fight ? From this point of view the Maoris were somewhat at a loss to understand the action of the British in capturing Boer supplies, a measure which R «58 tlbe aitteen'0 Misb il. 1 seemed to them to mi''tate against the due prolongation of the war. Some special reference to the presence of the Duke was made by every tribe. Here is a rendering of one of th{ ie passages : — "Flashes hitherwards The star Puanga; Whakahu rushes through the sky ! The heart of the island rejoices At thy coming 1 Draw near us 1 Approach us ! Indeed 'tis the offspring Of the great Queen, Who will uphold The ' mana ' of the Maoris. Cling tightly— Aue ! Raise heavenwards your spears ! " No pen could adequately describe, nor could any pic- ture convey, the scenes and incidents of that wonderful AnAmuintf f°''®"oo"' Numerous photographers were BpeotMle. ^"^y» ^"'^ s*^*"^ of the cinematograph re- cords secured may reproduce the action and attitude of the performers in their dances. But the ear was as much astounded as the eye, and without the hoarse, voluminous intonations and inflections of those weird chants, warcri;is, and laments, which must have been audible miles away, the effect produced upon the beholders would be lost. There was wealth of colour, too, in the gleaming naked skins varying in shades of duskiness, in the banners, feathers, mats, piu-pius (kilts of parti-coloured string), and war-like adornments of the tribes. The dances of the women, though in certain re- spects as savagely uncouth as the gestures and evolutions of the men, comprised some pretty movements and com- binations. F"rom the Royal box there were frequent rounds of applause, and the memorable haka, which had been controlled and carried out under the personal super- vision of the native minister, Mr. Carroll, in a manner new f;ellUln^ 259 beyond praise, was voted by all the visitors, their Royal Highnesses included, the most amazing spectacle they had ever beheld. The closing portion of these ceremonies wr- no means the least interesting. Every tribe had brought Rotorua. The Cballencer awaltlnar the SIcnal gifts for the Duke and Duchess, and these were laid at More Offerings. ^^""^^ ^^^* ^>' ^^"^ chiefs. First of all, there was a large m.del of the canoe — the Ayawa —in which the earliest Maori navigators landed in New Zealand 500 years ago. Then came piu-pius, flaxen and kiwi mats, many of the latter priceless, greenstone and whalebone meres, taihos, charms, costumes, and tribal R 2 afo TTbe 4lueett'0 Mtsb heirlooms. The chieftainess of the Wanganuis, Victoria Kemp, daughter of the late Major Kemp, brought no fewer than thirty-five muts. These presents, as they were de- posited on the platform in front of the Duke, soon formed such a pile that attendants had to be told off to remove and take charge of them. They can never be catalogued. One gift for His Royal Highness which caused great amusement was a yellow flaxen waistcoat of native work- manship which would make the fortune of a corner-man in a Christy Minstrel troupe. There was a fresh outburst of merriment when, a few minutes later, Lord Wenlix:k, who was helping to pass up the mats and other presents with which the chiefs and chieftainesses, forming a long queue, were deluging the platform, exclaimed : " Here's another one, sir," exhibiting to His Royal Highness a second waistcoat identical with the first. A framed copy of the Maori address was carried through the ranks of the warriors, who hailed it with shouts signifying their adhe- rence to the sentiments it expressed. The Duke and Duchess then left the pavilion and passed down the lines, amid tremendous cheering. His Royal Highness pre- sented thirty-nine chiefs and the Maori Members of Par- liament present with commemorative medals. Addressing the recipients, he said he had been greatly pleased by the dances which he had come so many miles to see, and which he considered the greatest novelty of the trip, add- ing that he w-ald never forget the kindness of the Maoris, and would give the King a full account of all that he had witnessed. He hoped that God would for ever and ever protect the Maori people and vouchsafe them prosperity. While passing through the women's lines, the Duchess picked up a pretty Maori child, a little girl, took some kindly notice of her. and shook hands with her on leaving, a simple act which nevertheless afforded untold delight to the people of this sensitive and impressionable race. From the haka the Royal party dree direct to the Railway Station, and the train started at half-past twelve new Zealand a6i tot Vb€ Otueeti'f THUsb Wellington en Wfttarloo Dkjr. on the return journey to Auckland. As on the upward trip, a stoppage was made for lunch— at Arahiwi on this occasion. We reached Auckland at seven, and their Royal Highnesses proceeded on board the Ophir, which, however, did not sail till daybreak the following morning. Sunday and Mond.iy were spent at sea. An excellent passage was made, and the Ophir, as usual, got into port ahead of time. She rounded Wellington Heads shortly before six o'clock on the evening of Monday, June 17, and anchored till the following morning about a mile and a half from the shore. The news of her arrival in Port Nicholson was announced to the citizens of Wellington by the discharge of bombs and the pealing of bells. It was a happy coincidence that brought the Imperial env 's to Wellington on the anniversary of the Battle of Watt loo. Their Royal Highnesses landed at eleven o'clock amid enthusiastic demon- strations of welcone, the Ophir having meanwhile come alongside and tied up at the Queen's Wharf. They were met by Lord Ranfurly, Mr. Seddon, Mr. Ward, and the other ministers, who had come from Auckland, the Governor in his yacht and the ministers in a special steamer. The Mayor, Mr. Aitken, was there too with an address of welcome to their Royal Hirhnesses on their landing in the "Empire city of New 'ealand." The route to Government House was spanned by a dozen beautiful arches bearing greetings, conspicuous among them being one erected by the Chinese, another with the superscription, " A United and Cordial Greeting from the Foreign Consuls," and two set up by the Maoris. The more important of the last-mentioned was near the en- trance to Government House, and here the enthusiastic Maoris, a party of whom manned the arch, held a powhiri. It is needless to dwell upon the warmth of the welcome extended to the illustrious visitors by the Wellington people, who were massed on the pavements and in grand Wew SaiUin( 263 stands. I may say here, once for all, that everywhere in New Zealand the popular reception was heartiness itself. Immediately upon entering Government House the Duke held an investiture, conftrring on Lord Ranfurly the Ordir of G.C.M.G., on Mr. Ward that of K.C.M.G.. and on Colonel Gudgeon and Mr. Walker that of C.M.G. His Royal M«wZ«aM4 RotoriM. The Prracntatlon Cano* Highness afterwards received the Consular body and in- spected 200 veterans, most of whom had been fifty years in the Colony and hi.d fought in the Maori wars. The veterans were entertained at lunch by the Government. In the afternoon the Duke and Duchess viewed a pro- cession of friendly societies from Government House, and t' ^^"^^ ^^ strangers. The warmth C0I0B7. of friendliness extended to them both from the moment they set foot in the country Lad made them feel already at home among the people. His Majesty the King and the whole nation would never forget how the flower of New Zealand's man- hood, abandoning personal avocations and civilian life, promptly and with eagerness hastened to arms in support of the Motherland, and how gallantly they fought and died in the Empire's service. Referring to the death of Queen Victoria, His Royal Highness said he had been profoundly impressed by the genuine sorrow for the nation's irreparable loss pervading the many lands through which he had passed during his long voyage. The vitality and prosperity of the Colony, he added, as evinced by its new works, must be gratifying to the survivors of the first pioneers, whose address he had received with much in- terest and satisfaction. To the pluck and perscxerance ot them and their fellow-workers must be attributed to a great extent the flourishing condition of the Colony During the past week the Duchess and he had experi- enced great pleasure in becoming acquainted with the Maori people, by whom they had been received with an enthusiasm and kindness which had greatly touched them. They rejoiced to think that this splendid race was living in peace and contentment, in steadily improving con- ditions under British rule. The Duchess and he would certainly carry away delightful and lasting impressions of beautiful "Te Ink Mau" and its people. His Royal High- ness concluded with the Maori friendly greeting, " Kiaora." In the evening a State reception was held at Parlia- ment House. The Duke and Duchess were present, and the function was highly successful. An excursion into the country, which had been re- served for Thursday, had to be given up on account of Dew Zealand 367 unsettled weather. Their Royal Highnesses instead went In DMtiiitf I ^^ *'^^'" ^° Petone, and spent the forenoon dutriu. visiting the Wellington Woollen Com- pany's mills, the Gear Meat Company's works, and the Railway workshops. The Governor, Mr. Seddon, Sir Joseph Ward, and Mr. Mills, Minister of Customs, accompanied them. The Duchess was pre- sented with a woollen travelling rug manufactured in the mills, and at the meat works their Royal High- nesses not only entered the freezing chambers, but tasted a sample of the tinned meat which is familiar to home consumers. In the afternoon the Duchess drove to the Wellington Hospital, while the Duke paid a visit to the Benevolent Home. Friday was the fourth and last day of the sojourn in Wellington. At noon, in the presence of a large con- course, despite torrents of rain, the Duke laid the foun- dation-stone of new Government Railway Offices in Featherston Street, using a trowel with a golden blade and a handle of gold-mounted greenstone, which, together with a Maori carved casket, he was asked to retain. The Duchess also received a souvenir of the occasion in the form of a bouquet in a greenstone holder ornamented with pearls. Their Royal Highnesses carried away from Wellington a variety of other gifts, including several intended for the King. The Ministry gave the Duchess a fern album and the Duke an album of New Zealand views. To His Majesty their Royal High- nesses were requested to convey a large nugget from the Baton River, Nelson, and a curiously carved walking- stick. At four o'clock in the afternoon the Royal party rejoined the Ophir and sailed for Lyttelton. Though the weather was gusty and threatening when the squadron left Wellington, the wind fell later, and the Chpiitehurch. ^^'^^^ voyage was accomplished in a smooth sea. The Ophir and her attendant cruisers, the Juno and St. George, anchored off Lyttelton at dawn More Souvenin. 368 ^Tbe aineen'0 mtsb Old Att Peuioni. the following morning. They were saluted by the vessels Undt. at h! r '?"f '■°"- '^^'" ^°y"' Highnesses, on landing at half-past eleven, were received on the quay by Lord Ranfurly. Mr. Seddon. Sir Joseph Ward, and the Mayor. A special train conveyed the party to Christ- anl!7h :J'^^,^^^^ "^^^hed at noon. Joy bells were rung, and the thunders of artillery mingled with the shouts of the enthusiastic crowds which lined the route. The sun had burst through the clouds almost at the moment of landing, and the cavalcade aflforded a brilliant spectacle though an hour earlier it had seemed likely to prove a somewhat dismal one. Their Royal Highnesses drove hrst to the Provincial Council Chamber, where a couple of addresses were presented by the Orange- men and the Old Age Pensioners— the Mayor had already tendered his at the station. The Duke, replying to the three collectively, said he was specially interested in the greeting of the Old Age Pensioners. •' The working of the system which has been established in New Zealand," he remarked, " is being closely watched in the Mother Country, and I am glad to be able to gather information respecting it during our visit. It IS a great pleasure to us to come amongst you, and to see for ourselves something of the remarkable progress which has been made by this city and district since the Canterbury Pilgrims landed, some fifty years ago. Favoured though you are by a splendid climate and a rich and fertile soil, that progress speaks volumes tor the courage and perseverance of the pioneers who peacefully wrested the province from the wilderness, and also for the intelligence and resource of those who have foUov/ed them. You have here established a new Eng- land, bound to the old by a two-fold cord of love and affection, and the deeds of your sons have proved that they have nobly learned the lessons of loyalty taught them by their fathers and mothers. In the -name of the King I thank you for the renewed assurance of that Dew Zealand 369 The Qneen't Btotue. loyalty. We also thank you for your kind wishes and expressions in regard to our voyage. We shall always cherish grateful memories of the warm-hearted kindness and hearty generosity we have everywhere met with in New Zealand, and it is our earnest prayer that the pro- gress and prosperity you now enjoy may continue to grow from day to day." From the Provincial Council Chamber the drive was continued, amid incessant manifestations of loyalty, till Victoria Square was reached. Here an important ceremony was to be performed, and an immense crowd had assembled to witness it. This was the laying of tl e foundation-stone of a statue of the late Queen, which was designed to com- memorate Canterbury's Jubilee and the soldiers from the province who had fallen in the war. The Duke, having declared the stone "well and truly laid," delivered a short but extremely telling speech. " We are ver>' happy," he said, " to be here to-day, and to become associated with the tribute of affection to our late dearly beloved Queen. I should say to you : teach your children to look up to it as a memorial of her whose life was a noble example of devotion to duty, of tender sympathy, and of loving regard for the well-being of ' er people, and to us all a priceless heritage. I can assure you that both the Duchess and myself are greatly touched by the very kind and hearty welcome given to us to-day by the people of Canterbury." After watching a procession of friendly societies organ- ised for the occasion, their Royal Highnesses re-entered their carriage and drove to Te Koraha, the suburban residence of the Mayor, which Mr. Rhodes had given up for their accommodation during the visit. The house is situated in charming grinds, and these in the afternoon were the scene of an interesting wire-jumping contest arranged by the military officers for the entertainment of the Royal party. 270 TLbc Olneen's misb < The decorations of the city included a Government arch, a frozen-meat arch, an agricultural and pastoral arch, Soma Morel ^ "autical arch, and a West Coast trophy! Inhet. Let "le hasten to explain that the second was not, as might be imaginrd from its name, composed of frozen mutton, though specimens of that n.ost useful commodity were exhibited in glass chambers at the base of each tower. The structure Itself was painted white and incrusted with fragments of glass, which gave it a frosted appearance, and it bore the mscnption, highly acceptable in its originality, "Frozen our product— our welcome warm!" The agricultural and pastoral arch was an even bolder innovation in ornamental architecture, for it was composed of live stock. Stalls on the ground floor held prime fat bullocks, the first storey contained pens of sheep, and over them again were compartments filled with poultry. The design further comprised a plentiful display of all kinds of farm ^nd garden produce. Of the West Coast trophy the chief feature was a gilded obelisk representing the output of the gold mines— six million ounces, of the value of £■25,854,068. The coal and timber industries were also illustrated by samples of their products, with statistics mtimating that there were still two hundred million tons of the former on the West Coast to be exploited, and a million acres of saw-milling bush. " Welcome from the Land of the Forest and the Lake," was one of the inscriptions. On Sunday morning their Royal Highnesses attended Divine service in the Cathedral. The Bishop of Christ- •• A Sceptre of ^^urch preached from the text, " A sceptre Righteouuesi." "^ righteousness is the sceptre of Thy king- dom." Dwelling in the course of an elo- quent sermon on the fact that there was a national as well as an individual righteousness, the Bishop paid a tribute to the late Queen, whose glorious reign, he said, had been blessed above all things in this, the element of view Zealand 271 righteousness. It wa': good to know that British rule was loved, that British justice was respected, and that amongst the cruelties and miseries of war, and despite Kr/r,-/u,ee attieen'0 Mtsb days not of petty kingdoms but of mighty empires. As one people we responded to the call of the Motherland. furZl^°'' 7'^°'"fl'" ^^^^ «^«** ^^"-^^ fe't in the nlfar off? r"' '^*^' ^"'^"'' ^"^ '" ^^'^ "^^hedral. As one tn H ' ""^V^^' ^'*'' '^'''^ ^^° ^«P* ^^ ^ome. As one to-day we welcome the symbol of unity and join in the rejoicmgs of the Empire." ^ HaekrP«r!;°"'^"vf ''TP' ^"" """^'"^^^ ^y the Duke in Hagley Park on Monday, June 24. The weather was B«rt.wl«iU|- f o"ously bright and crisp after a night ol I«y Park. hard frost, and as a spectacle the march- Snn,« fi« ^*^* "^^^ ^^ P''^"y ^^ *"y we had seen, ^ome 60,000 spectators were present, and Colonel Pole- Drouth "I^ 7u- '" ^°'"'"^"d. had every reason to be corded ?h iu '"'"u^"^ °^**^^ P°P">^^ ovation ac- corded them. Three thousand cadets marched at their tuTnV^ IvfL "'"^ *^" P"""'P^' ''°"^"^« with the re- turned South African contingents and the Naval Brigade. H.S Royal Highness afterwards distributed 142 war hearty welcome being reserved for Colonel Robin, who led Maior' Cr'°" k"^'"*' ^""^T^ J^^^^^' ^^o led the third. Major Crawshaw. and other officers who had won specia d^tinction in the field. The Duke also inspected eighty veterans of the Maori wars, who were subsequent y ;Sng '' "' '' *'' Government. Mr. leddon Hi^hn J*""'' "^^^ *° *^^ '"'"*^'"y P^8^^"t their Royal Highnesses were greeted in Victoria Square by 8,000 A Fluffy Greet- ^"'^'''"en representing eighty Canterbury tag. schools, who sang the National Anthem ^PP^c .f 1, ■ . '""^"'"S^ P'""^^s °f toi grass, the white fluffy fnn^H In .''"'■' "'^""'"^^ •" th« breeze, and enve oped the Duke and Duchess in a mimic snowstorm traces of which were still conspicuous upon their clothing during the review. Four little girls, wearing red-white^ and-blue sashes, presented the Duchess with a bouquet «ew ZaiUmb ,73 on behalf of the assembled schools. To Miss Reese, who '^Th'.nl P'"^""***'"": "««• Roy^ Highness replied. Thank you. my dear." The children were aftenvards thfrlrl *'?; *:f '^-' f "d a Punch and Judy show in olrH ?K '^:."f L ^^' ^'^""'^ '°°'^«d '" t° ^« them towards the end of the entertainment. Mr. Seddon might readily have been forgiven had he overlooked this appoint- ment so interesting were the speeches, and so pe£vid the enthusiasm, at the veterans' lunch, but it was charac tenstic of his big-hearted kindliness that he should sud- denly remember it. and. exclaiming: "I must getaway to those kiddies." promptly vacate the chair and drive off post haste to join the little ones. The ladies of Christchurch brought to Te Koraha. by their representatives, Mrs. Arthur Rhodes. Mrs. George Gift for Prliioe ^^^odes. and Mrs. Wigram, a singularly- Bdward. acceptable souvenir, in the form of a birth- day gift for Prince Edward of Cornwall and York, the eldest son of their Royal Highnesses, who on the 23rd attained the age of seven. It was a letter-weight of gold and polished greenstone, the handle being a dog's head ''f'Zfr f':^^"^^""^' the neck encircled by a golden collar studded with diamonds. The Maoris of the South Island who had presented an address to "thegreat Chief George'' through the native member Mr. Tame Parata. also sent a special greeting for Prince Edward which ran : " Ehoa (tnend). Tenakoe (salutations). Many happy returns of this your natal day. May good health and happiness ever be your sun in winter and your shade in summer. Kiaora (good luck) Tenakoe. From your Tamariki (children)." From Christchurch to Dunedin was a transition from the most English to the most Caledonian of all colonial Oanedlii. *^'*'®^- ^^e journey was made by rail on Tuesday, June 25. Leaving Christchurch at ten o clock, we reached Dunedin at six in the evening A keen frosty morning was succeeded by superb sun- shine, and their Royal Highnesses obtained a delightful •» Vbc Qneen'f mub (A I, panoramic view of the Southern Alps, covered with snow ana glistening in the tun. At every stopping place the fa- miliar demonstrations were repeated. While skirting the seaboard we enjoyed many charming glimpses of the Pacific Ocean and the rugged coast line. At Shag Point, the Hon. John Mackenzie, ex-minister of Lands and Immi- gration, whose . -ifeebled health had prevented him from attending the investiture at Wellington and receiving his " K.C.M.G," met the train with his wife and daughters, and was invited to enter the Royal saloon, where the Duke conferred the Order — a unique investiture. Pic- turesque Port Chalmers, which we passed after darkness had set in, was ablaze with bonfires, fireworks, and illu- minations. These, as seen from the train, were strikingly effective. On reaching Dunedin, their Royal Highnesses, having been welcomed by the Mayor, Mr. Denniston, drove through hui ;:. ing crowds to the Fernhill Club, which had been set apart for their residence during their short stay of forty hours. It was a genuine Scottish welcome that the Duke and Duchess received next day. The street." were beautifully A BeotUih W«l- f'^^*'^"^*^ a"d spanned by handsome arches eome. bearing greetings in Gaelic, Maori, and Chinese, and quotations from Burns. From an early hour the city resounded with the skirl of the bagpipes, and the whole population was afoot. The triple ceremony of receiving addresses, presenting medals, and inspecting veterans took place at the Octagon, in the open air. There was an enormous crowd, and some thou- sands were accommodated on stands rising from the street to the base of Burns's statue, under the shadow of which the Royal pavilion had been erected. The Octagon was closed in on one side by an arch representing the gates of Balmoral Castle, on the other by a native arch manned by Maoris. The addresses presented were from the Cor- poration, the Presbyterian Church, the Roman Catholic bishop, clergy, and laity, the Corporation of Port Chalmers, new SeaUind 375 the County Councils of Otago, and the various Scottish and fnendly societies. The Dunedin Corporation address was enclosed in a large gold, silver, and bronze model of a Maori carved meeting-house. The Duke, who spoke in a loud voice, distinctly audible to thousands, after expressing thanks for the iBkwMtOhw- '°y^ sentiments conveyed and for the MtortotiM. enthusiastic welcome, said: "We have eagerly looked forward to visiting this favoured district of New Zealand, knowing that we should find here a community of pure Scottish origin, who, some half century ago, left their native shores for this distant land. True to the national -nborn capacity for colonisa- tion, they came in whole families, under the guidance of trusted leaders and of their revered ministers. They transplanted to their new home in the Southern Seas their national institutions, their characteristic zeal and readiness to make every sacrifice for education. But they did more. They infused into their new life that courage, perseverance, and tenacity of purpose which to- gether with a spiiit of enterprise, are the inherent char- acteristics of their race. What must then have been but a mere hamlet, but in which they saw with prophetic eye its present greatness, they honoured with the Celtic name of that fairest of cities, the historic capital which is the pride of all Scotsmen. Is it to be wondered that coming with such interests and traditions, they laid here the foundation of what is now one of the most progres- sive communities of this prosperous Colony ? But, thou-'h your province is the farthest distant from the centre^of the Empire, it has proved that the hearts of the people beat no less strongly for the Mother Country. The Fourth Contingent is, I find, renowned in this Colony, manned as It was by your sons, equipped and mounted by the generosity of the people of the province, while Dunedin stands unique in having sent so many of its brave self- sacrificing daughters to tend the sick and wounded in s 2 •76 Vbe Queen's VUsb South Africa. Most heartily do I reciprocate the hope expressed that our visit may enhance the spirit of good- will which should band in one great solid union of hearts the scattered portions of the Empire. We shall quit your shores with feelings of profound gratitude for the generous and unfeigned kindness which has been extended to us throughout the length and breadth of the Colony, and it is our earnest prayer that Divine Providence may continue to guide and watch over the destinies of its people." These words were greeted with tremendous cheering. His Royal Highness presented 109 war medals, including "iMdyferaa- °"* *° ^""® Ross, and inspected eighty •tlMr Oo, IMek." veterans, who, like their comrades at Auck- land and Wellington, were afterwards in- vited to a lunch by the Government. This proved to be the most wildly perfervid gathering of the three. The entire company, which included the returned South Africans, thrice in the course of the meal stood up and sang the National Anthem and " Rule, Britannia." The speeches, too, brimmed over with patriotic and martial exuberance. Mr. Seddon, who was in the chair, referred to the intense pleasure their Royal Highnesses had derived from inspect- ing and conversing with the veterans. He mentioned, as an instance of the spirit animating the latter, that one veteran eighty-two years old had said to him : " We're ready for another go, Dick ! " In proposing the health of the Duke and Duchess, Mr. Seddon said their Royal Highnesses' great desire had been to get in touch with the people, and they had succeeded beyond the wildest ilights of fancy. Their mission in fulfilment of the late Queen's wishes had been entirely successful. All were satisfied and all were delighted. He called for cheers for the Duke and Duchess, and one more for " the little ones," and there was a tumul- tuous response. Cheers were also given for Lord Kit- chener and other prominent generals at the front. In the afternoon their Royal Highnesses attended a great children's demonstration in the Caledonian Grounds, ( "' mew fealatib 377 and viiited the Pastoral and Horticaltural Shows. The A Um aai a yo"."K people sanR songs and went throuRh ngfi^, their physical drill and other exercises. On the termination of these the Duke was presented with a stone chair, ingeniously devised by Dr. Gordon Macdonald. While His Royal Highness was laughingly testing it, an old lady came up to the Duchess and kissed her hand. She went away the proud possessor of a flower from the bouquet Her Royal Highness was carrying. The Duke and Duchess in the evening at- tended a Citizens* Reception in the Agricultural Hall; there was a display of fireworks and bonfires, and military bands and pipers paraded the streets till a late hour. The return journey to Lyttelton on Thursday was preceded by the laying of the foundation-stone of a statue to Queen Victoria. The site was immediately opposite the Railway Station, and the ceremony did not occupy more than a few minutes, but it afforded the Duke an opportunity for one of those brillia' tly direct little speeches that all through the tour appealed powerfully AHebUMMl. ^° ^^°^ )^^" ^^""^ *^®"'- "May all of * us," he said, speaking of his revered grand- mother, " strive to raise up in our hearts and the hearts of the nation an ideal based upon the noble example of her life " ; and in thanking the people for the warm and friendly welcome accorded to the Duchess and himself, he assured them that they would leave the beautiful and hospitable shores of New Zealand with deep regret, but would go with the kindly cheers of its inhabitants still ringing in their ears, and bearing in their hearts grateful and unfading recollections of the happiness they had experienced at their hands. Once again His Royal Highness concluded his remarks with the genial Maori salutation, "Kiaora!" (good luck). Before leaving New Zealand, their Royal Highnesses made many presents. Mr. Seddon received a massive gold and silver inkstand, Mr. Carroll, a gold watch, •H Vb€ Qnecn'f Wltb Mr. fWmralltoHmr Hoimn and the other minitten, ci|pirette caact and aimilar souvenira. These gifts wi j in each case accompanied by the gracious thanks of the Duke and Duchess for the efforts so successfully made to render their trip an agree- able one. His KoytA Highness also sunt through Lord Ranfurly a farewell message to the people of New Zealand, saying how happy he and the Duchess had been m their beautiful land. The reviews at Auckland and Christchurch, he remarked, had enabled them to form an idea of the Colony's spendid fighting material, and had brought home to them more than ever the enormous accession to the strength of the Empire upon which they could count if need arose. He had been proud beyond measure to witness the enthusiastic i-eception everywhere accorded to the contingents which had returned from South Africa. Referring to the cadets, His Royal High- ness spoke of the movement as deserviig of every encouragement, particularly as regards the provisioi. f properly-trained instructors, since, apart from th^ physical benefits derived from it, it infuses '- the rising generation a spirit of discipline and esprit dt c*.^, and must tend to make them better citizens as well as good soldiers. He expressed his pleasure at having met the Maoris face to face, witnessed their vast and interesting gathering at Roturiia, and had personal friendly intercourse with the leading chiefs. He desired his warmest thanks to be conveyed to the Premier for his courtesy, attention, and untiring energy, which had in no small degree con- tributed towards making their stay so enjoyable, and also expressed his sincere gratitude to Lord and Lady Ranfuriy for the unceasing care, trouble, and forethought they had displayed. His Royal Highness, in conclusion, wrote: " Unfortunately our stay has been short, but I earnestly trust that the experience and knowledge of the country which we have gained, and the personal intercourse we have had with its people, may in some measure tend to tsatimiiiui 879 ■iMtain and enhance the existing feeling of sympathy and interest between the Mother Country and New Zealand, and thus draw still closer those ties of affection and brotherhood by which we are so happily united." Sailing from Lyttelton at lo p.m. on Thursday, June 27, the Ophir, after a cold and boisterous passage IBelstaffMs °' '°"'^ ^*^* '"** ^^^ nights, reached Tfymt. Hobart, the c&pital of Tasmania, early on the morning of Tuesday, July 2. Rough weather is to be expected in these waters, and the squadron had its full share of it. The ships rolled heavily and continuously in a south-easterly gale, the roughest seas we had yet experienced keeping the decks constantly awash. On Sunday the gale was at its height, and life-lines had to be rigged on deck. One or two of the Ophir'i men, while securing some gear, were washed off their feet and rather badly bruised in their fall, but escaped without serious injury. The Tasmanian coast was sighted at daybreak on Tuosday morning, and by 7.30 the squadron was in the comparatively tranquil waters of Storm Bay. By means of a Marconi apparatus, affixed to a pole 80 ft. high at One Tree Point Lighthouse, communication with the squadron was establislied when it was about three miles off. Lie'4tenant Trousdale, who had charge of the ws with great satisfaction that I have laid the first stone of a national tribute to their memory. Tasmania has indeed every reason to be proud of the services which she has rendered to the Empire • for nearly 600 officers and men have left this island for the war, and this force enjoys the honourable and unique distinction of having gained the first two Victoria Crosses bestowed upon members of the colonial corps during the campaign. But out of this splendid muster, which I have quoted, sixteen, alas! have not returned; it is to Vasmanfa 285 a66 TTbe Qneen'0 Tnuab I I II perpetuate their memory that we are here assembled, and I am sure you will join with me in offering our heartfelt sympathy to those who in them have lost their dearest and l)est. Such memorials as that which wiil rise from this spot are not only tributes to the dead-is not each one of them a testimony to that living spirit of pride of race, of pnde m a common heritage, and of a fixed resolve to join in maintaining that heritage, which senti- ment irresistible in its power, has inspired and united the peoples of this vast Empire? Is it not this sentiment which has given, yes, and will give again, your brave contingents, and has made even death easy to their gallant comrades, whose names will be engraven, not only on the monument you raise, but in the hearts of their living fellow-countrymen." A log-chopping contest in the Domain filled in the remainder of the afternoon and proved a most interesting Lof-choppia|. ^""^ exciting event. The principal com- petition was for the championship of the Commonwealth, and this, after herculean trials of strength skill, and endurance, was won by M. J. McCarthy, a iasmanian, who, in 4 minutes 22^ seconds, cut through a standing block of hard wood with a girth of 6 ft 4 in and thereby carried off a prize of ^^60 and a gold medal! I he Duke, in presenting the victor with his medal, con- gratulated him upon his hard-earned triumph, and at McCarthy's call a hearty round of cheers was given for their Royal Highnesses. From the Axemen's Association the Duchess accepted a most original bouquet composed 01 Tasmanian berries. Immediately after the log-chopping contest their Royal Highnesses took an impromptu drive to Wappmg, the meanest quarter of the city, to inspect an arch which had been erected in their honour by the poorest of the poor. The joy this wholly unexpected visit yielded to the denizens of a squalid suburb may be imagined There was a second reception after dinner at Government House, and m addition to the illuminations a naval and M TTasnuinia 287 aquatic display, with fireworks, was given in the harbour, the line of boats which participated extending nearly a mile. For the concluding day of the visit a varied and from every point of view pleasing programme had been * BBiy MoniBl. ^'■'■^"g^d- ^°»' events—a review, a chil- * dren's demonstration, the presentation of war medals, and a trades' procession— were crowded into the forenoon. Certainly the Domain, where these scenes were enacted, offered as pretty a setting as could well be found. It formed the centre of a delightful amphitheatre Itabart. The Children'* Welceme of mountain and forest, with the glittering sea and the sun-lit city in the hollow, while dominating all was Mount Wellington, crest and shoulders powdered with snow, towering majestically into the empyrean. Five thousand children in grand stands behind the Royal pavilion sang an ode of welcome, and, after the review, in which some 2,000 troops took part, gave a spirited rendering of " Three Chee;-s for the Red, White, and Blue," while the war medals were being distributed. The troops were under the command of Colonel Legge, R.A., Com- 388 Vbe atueen'0 misb i i 11 V; ./( ■Stan. In ,he afternoon His Roll Hill * "' panied by Lord „op..o„„, p;LXa"^e "oTVXst through Mr ScoH » Jf r- '?'°."« °""" S*"»' ^«^'i>-<^' ^^-5 -sic by Mr. T. JolLl^^Li^ihfcro^atst "Vf last verse thus expressed the Island's greedng:- " To^ay in her hair's dusky meshes The mite Rose of \ork with a smile Of r f^""f'u" ""'^""'^ "«= -children Of the lord of the fa. Mother-isle. God g.ve you good years, Prince and Princess t ull of peace, and may love to the enj As true as warm-hearted Tasmania's, Vour footsteps attend." p'r!::;]!™!"''"''" """ ™""' "y ' "-Wgade torchligh. ll I TTasmatita 389 J. I! *90 tCbe ^tieen'0 mitb On Saturday morning their Royal Highnesses enjoyed a drive by the Huon Road to the Hon. C. H. Grant's chAlet, and in the afternoon, before re-embarking on board theO/AiV, the Duke laid the foundation-stone of the new post-office. The Royal yacht, immediately after the embarkation, sailed for Adelaide. A pleasant and uneventful passage brought the good ship to the capital of South Australia on the evening of •Mth AuiMU*. ^°"'^ay, July 8, though she was not officially due till the following morning. Upon this short run she was escorted by the Juno alone, the 5/. George, owing to coaling exigencies, having gone on ahead to Albany. The pilot came off to meet the ophtr when she was signalled, but the cautious Com- modore preferred to steam up the river to Port Adelaide by daylight, and the ships accordingly anchored in Largo May for the night. On landing at two o'clock next day, their Royal Highnesses were received by the Governor, Lord Tennyson; the Premier, Mr. Jenkins; and the Mayor, Mr. Caire ; and left by special train at 2.30 for the city. There a right hearty welcome awaited them from crowds augmented by thousands of country and inter-state visitors. The streets were profusely and tastefully dressed, and looked their best in the bright, genial sunshine. There were only four arches, the Government having resolved to give ^2,000 to the poor, instead of spending all the money in this form of temporary embellishment. Three of the four trophies were in Rundle Street. They were composed of palm and laurel leaves, grass trees, oranges and lemons, and the mottoes they bore were "Keep Our Noble Britain Whole," "Australia, Aus- tralia, ' and " God Bless and Keep You." The fourth arch was set up by the gardeners and market salesmen. The procession halted for a moment opposite the Town Hall while the Mayor handed the Duke the city's address of welcome; 1,200 homing pigeons were liberated in Adalalda'i W«l- oome. victoria Square to carry the news of the arrival to all ^rt« of the State, and i.ioo children assembled on East Terrace sang the National Anthem. The chief guests at !nH Ta xv**"*^ at Government House were Sir Samuel and Lady Way Their Royal HiKhnesses after dinner were serenaded by the Adelaide Liedctafel While the Duke was holding a levee next morning, the Duchess visited the Adelaide and Children's Hospitals to the great delight of their inmates. His Royal Hi^'h' ness, after the levee, received a number of addresses. In replying to these, he made a feeling allusion to the kindness he and his brother experienced in South Aus- tralia twenty years ago. and expressed pride and eratifi. cation that the Duchess should Ce the fiSt pri„cess'o7 t'h Royal House to visit the great continent. He esteemed It a high privilege to be permitted to put the finishinL' m:nfofVh''i"*/r r' °' ^'^^ ^-i^the estbth. ment of the Australian Commonwealth. Referring to the Motherlands message of gratitude for the gallant self- sacnfice of those States that had hastened 'to arms n South Africa. His Royal Highness said he found from an T,!Z y '.u ^^"^ f *'^^"*y y^'''^ ^So that the South Australians then volunteered for service in the Transvaal and meant it too. but the offer was declined by the home "ALlTtai J^TT"*' The Colony, he had written PortloBofthe '" , If ^"^'■J' evidently considered itself a topto.." real living portion of the Empire, and was quite willing to share the burden of citizen ship with the Mother Country. Recent deeds. H s Roya H ghness added, had proved how true was the intfrpre tation he placed upon the offer made at that time He" noted with interest and satisfaction the presencTof thl survivors of the first settlers, and he trust d the s-era States of the Commonwealth would grow ever stronii and more united in working out the great dest ny of fhe T a 393 Zbc ^ticen'f WOtb For the remainder of the day Hit Royal HighneM, who was luffering from toothache, remained indoorn. He was afforded immediate relief by the extraction of the recalcitrant molar, which, by a curious coincidence, was one which had been stopped at Adelaide a couple of decades earlier. The temporary inconvenience, however, prevented the Duke from attending the evening reception, and the Duchess alone received the numerous and bril. liant assemblage of guests, with the assistance of Lord and Lady Tennyson. Her Royal Highness, in the after- noon, was present at a football match between the students of Prince Alfred and St. Peter's Colleges, and at its close gave each of the players a commemorative medal. There was an immense gathering of the general public, who made the appearance of the illustrious visitor in their midst the occasion of a splendid ovation. On Thursday the Duke, completely recovered, accom- panied by the Duchess, the Governor and Lady Tenny- AmUmtObI- ^"* *"** ^^^ '"'*®' ^'^^^ through the vmity Dsgn*. densely crowded streets to the Art Gallery, where His Royal Highness unveiled a bust of the late Lord Tennyson. The party afterwards in- spected the art collection, which is an admirable one. They proceeded next to the Univeisiij , which was estab- lished in 1874, and, by the aid of several munificent donations from public-spirited citizens, has rapidly ex- tended its scope and influence. It enjoys the distinction of being the first in Australia to provide for the granting of degrees to women. Some additional buildings were now being erected at a cost of ;f 12,000, to bear the name of His Royal Highness, who had consented to lay the foundation-stone. When that ceremony had been duly performed, a special Congregation was held in the Elder Hall, when an address in Latin, read by Professor Bensly, was presented, and the degree of LL.D. was conferred upon the Duke by the Chancellor, Sir S. J. Jay. A simi- lar degree was at the same time bestowed upon Sir John •otttb anftraiui 993 Madden, Lieutenant-Governor of Victoria. The Chan- cellor, in th< name of the Duchess, declared the new organ "open," and as the instrument pealed forth the strains of the National Anthem for the first time, the audience was roused to the highest pitch of enthusiasm. Of course the undergraduates had prepared a reception of "MX-Y." .^''**'^ °^" ^°' ^^^" Royal Highnesses, and it was an uproariously good-humoured one. In addition to their Doxology, they sang several topical /•*.*. »> ^rmli.wH ^ .1/.. ./J-w^ l>«,r,t. if,-^' ^-eting^mtTh eye in both tongues, and over the municipal arch in Pone Hennessy Street was the motto of the CorporaUon lar^iv"nto?h' '^i ""^'T '^""^^^ ^"^ foliage' entered largely mto the scheme of decoration, and the general effect m the dazzling sunlight was pleasing. ^ '''^ barJe tL fT' Highnesses went ashore in the Royal caTh . f '"':"^- "^^^ f°^^"°°" had been over- cast, bu , as so often happened in the course of the tour landln' T '" w I" ^" ''^ ^P'^"^°- -' ^he moment of andmg. Bengd Infantry lined the route from the wharf of RoT" TAf °"''' T*^''' " ^""d °f h°"°"^ composed UP The n ; "^ -d Royal Engineers was d'^awn 2: n K T' ^'^ "-ear-admiral's uniform, and the Duchess a steel-grey dress and hat. The Colonial Secretary, bir Graham Bower, rode in the carriage with their Royal Highnesses, the Governor and Lady B^uce AanrttfM 303 following in the next. A detachment of mounted Bengal Infantry formed the escort. Immediately upon arriving at Government House the Duke held an investiture in the Throne Room— the first ceremony of the kind ever seen in Mauritius— conferring upon Sir Charles Bruce the honour of G.C.M.G., upon Mr. L. V. Delafaye, Chief Judge of the Supreme Court, that of Knight Bachelor, and upon Dr. Edwards and Mr. de Chazal that of C.M.G. Addresses, enclosed in beau- tiful caskets, were then presented by the Council of Tba "Opklr" at MauriUiu Government, the Municipality, and other constituted bodies, and by the various Asiatic communities. The Duke, in his reply, after acknowledging the kindly expressions of welcome and the assurances of loyalty Content with ^'^''^.^ ^^^X <=o"tained, said—" I note with British Role, special satisfaction, from the addresses of those non-European communities who have made their home among you, that they are living in con- tentment under the rule of their King-Emperor in Mau- ritius. We have looked forward with keen interest to i ' i I f/l I'/ 304 VDe ^ueen'f Mtob tradUions m the history of literature and statesmansWo proud of .ts association with naval achievement^That sh^ equal glo.y on England and France. We deeply svmrT th.se with you in that combination oradSL'X' gether beyond your control, under which you ' have suffered dunng the past ten years. Meanwhile ^Ee whole coZr ^'^r''^'^ ^'^h sympathetic admiration th^ constancy and courage by which you overcame your diffi! cult.cs. and the spirit that prompted you to cCribute !k w f\ .-^ ^°"' suffering fellow-subjects in India thatYn fu'' r^ •" ^°"^^ A^"^*- I rejoice to know that a day of brighter promise has dawned upon you thaT lon^^rLti'' °^ '^' '^'^"^ continues To e^oy it long-estabhshed reputation, and that it is your earnest endeavour to keep pace with the rest of the Emplefn mamtaining its commercial and mercantile pre-eZence I fervently trust that under Divine Providence thTZpI* of Mauritius may ever remain a united, loyal, and^ro^ perous community." ^ ' P °^ out^oTh?'J^'"°"l^°°'" their Royal Highnesses passed out to the mam entrance, where, under the shade of a AP.ly|I.tP». graceful arch of greenery, the Duke laid ttmUm, the foundation-stone of a statue to Queen Victoria. The Royal party, from the^nmp spot, witnessed a procession of chiWren Zdts and Chinese, the last-mentioned parading wik the^ most delight a huge and particularly fierce-looking drago" For fully an hour both the Duke and Duchess stood in Do!n? nn'"^ T '^ Tu'^ '^' ^'^P'^^ ^^^^er than disap" point any section of the demonstrators. To a crippled workman who .ctracted her attention, the DuchelHaid a few kind y words, giving him a flower from her bouquet After a drive round the town, during which they were cheered with marked enthusiasm, their Royal Highness^ proceeded to the Reduit. the official residence ofl" Abaurftfttf 305 Charles Bruce, where they spent the next four days in strict privacy, except for a state dinner, followed by a reception, on the evening of their arrival. On the Tues- day the Duke had some deer-stalking at Plaine Kaoul, while the Duchess visited the Pamplemousses Botanical' Gardens, lunched in a kiosk, and planted a couple of Norfolk pines. His Royal Highness took part in another deer-stalking expedition next day. There were two sad events connected with the visit to Mauritius. It was here that news reached their Royal Highnesses of their bereavement by the death of the Empress Frederick ; and the day before the Ophir arrived, Sir Virgile Naz, who, for over a quarter of a century, had been a friend and confidential adviser to every successive Governor and a leader of influence in the Councils of the Colony, passed away. Almost his last words were: "Convey to the Duke my intense regret at not being privileged to live to welcome him." Sir Virgile left his valuable library to the Colony. With regard to the impression produced by the visit upon the French community, I cannot do better than A Freneh ^'^^'*'^. *.^^ following passage from Le Vrai ImpNMion. Mauricicn. After commenting upon the manner in which " cette princesse dont tout I'empire raffole deja k si just titre " had captivated all hearts by the graciousness of her smile and the extreme courtesy with which she had conversed in perfect French with all the Creoles presented to her, the writer added :— " Le miel dun sourire captive le Mauricien ; il est bien fran9ais en cela, et c'est pourquoi nous sommes certain qu'il ne viendra pas a la pensee de Leurs Altesses de nous reprocher d'etre restes fran9ais, puisque cela ne nous empeche pas d'etre loyaux, et de I'etre plus profond^ment encore, depuis qu'il a plu a notre Roi de nous jouer la malice de nous envoyer ses enfants, pour les faire cherir de nous, et se ♦"lire aimer en eux." 'J CHAPTER VI jfv 1^ SOUTH AFRICA. -^ TRIFE.RIVEN South Africa, which for...ed the Seas, O burthen of the mo«t momentous portion of the late yueen's message to All the Britains beyond the and which had been never absent from men's Tka iMt Af '"•"'^'' ** *« have seen, while that message fl„, was bemg carried round the globe and eloquently delivered, amid manifestations of patriotic fervour that quickened the pulse and stirred the imagination of the Empire, was the next destination of the Imperial envoys to whom it had been entrusted It was with mingled feelings that members of the party saw this stage of the journey draw nearer. When the tour was mapped out, and even after it began, the hope was cherished in many quarters that the Heir Apparent and his Consort might enjoy the great happiness of settinc the seal upon, and celebrating by tl.eir presence, the re-establishment of peace and concord in that distracted land. That would have been the most grateful task of all It was not to be. Of the progress of the dreary war their Koyal Highnesses had been kept fully informed by tele- graphic despatches received at every' port of call and from point to point when travelling inland, and they' were therefore familiar with the situation. Among those re- sponsible for the personal safety of their Royal Highnesses, there may have been some misgivings as to the wisdom of visiting the Colony at such a time, but this was a con- sideration to which the illustrious personages most concerned apparently never gave the slightest heed. There was no question of omitting South Africa from the 306 sotttb arrtca 307 itinerary, despite the continuation of the war. And this was well. For both in Natal and in Cape Colony a we|! expectation, and which it would have been a thousand pities to lose, a welcome which, just because of the exceptional circumstances, and the heavy weight that ha.l Durban. The Undiar sUf SO lonfj lain „p,,n the public mi„.|, was all the more glowing and electric. '"'"^^ The Ophir and her escort anchored in Durbin Harbour at seven o'clorL- nn ♦», • , *''"rnan tncn ociock on the morning of Tuesday, DHi.|«n. ^''f^"^t V ''"'^ ^^^ '''"d'"*? took place at "-«*, wh,ch .he Duka formerly eanmuiided as h,"t, 3o8 TTbe Queen s misb commission, and to which His Royal Highness on arriving had signalled the friendly greeting, " Am glad to see my old ship again." The Royal yacht and the warships, mcludmg the Portuguese cruiser San Raphael, flew their ensigns at half-mast for the funeral of the Empress Frederick, but the men-of-war, as well as the merchant vessels, had dressed ship. A great crowd, largely com- posed of Zulus, Kaffirs, and Indians, had assembled on the breakwater, and the natives exhibited their delight by dancing and cheering vociferously. " Welcome to Natal," in lettering upon a decorative structure on the quay, was the first inscription to meet the eyes of the visitors as the tug came alongside. At St. Paul's Wharf their Royal Highnesses were received by the Governor, Sir Henry McCalluni, and Lady McCallum ; the Premier, Sir Albert Hine, and Ministers; Sir David Hunter, Chairman of the Reception Committee ; the Mayor, Mr. Acutt, the Judges, members of Parliament, all the foreign consuls, and a brilliant gathering of naval and military officers, promi- nent amon^' whom was General Gorjas, Governor-General of Mozambique, representing the Portuguese Government. There was a guard of honour of Natal \'olunteers. Arrangements permitted but a fleeting visit to Durban, for there was an afternoon journey to the capital, Pieter- niaritzbiirg, where their Kojal Highnesses were due the same evening. The weather was showery, but though it caused flags and bunting to droop despondently, it had no such influence upon the crowds, who joyously acclaimed the King's son and his princess along the route to the Albert Park, where the addresses were presented. At certain points the spectators were cliiefly natives and coolies, at others they were exclusively European. The decorations and triumphal arches wire admirable. In West Street 11,000 cliildren from the Durban and Coast District schools sang their welcome. The Royal carriage was drawn by six grey horses, with postilions in scarlet tunics. A Fleeting Visit. Sotttb atrica 309 3IO XTbe Qneen'B mtBb In the park there were a Royal pavilion, a grand stand filled with a fashionable throng, and a guard of honour of the Durban Light Infantry. Here addresses were pre- sented by the Corporation, the Caledonian Society, the United Irish Association, the Cambrian Society, the East Anglian Society, the Jewish community, the Indian community, and other organisations. The Duke, in acknowledging these, said : " It is a great satisfaction to me to receive your assurances of /«../.. « ,■ A'-"'iMi,>iuN.l Durban. Rayal Arch, West 5trcct loyalty to the Throne and of loving devotion to the HaUI'i memory of our deeply-mourned Queen, and Patriotiun. ^ shall hasten to communicate the same to my dear father. But ample and lasting testimony to the strength of your loyalty and patriotism has been given in the noble sacrifices which you have made m the defence of His Majesty's Dominions during the lamentable struggle unhappily not yet ended. Our heartfelt sympathy is for all who mourn for dear ones who have given their lives in the cause of the Empire. It affords the Duchess and me much pleasure to visit, for the first time, your Colony, and to witness the great Soutb fifiica 311 development which has been accomplished through the enterprise and industry of its inhabitants. We earnestly trust that these efforts may be blessed with the prosperity they so justly merit, and that peace and unity may prevail throughout the land." At the call of the Mayor, three cheers were given for the Duke and Duchess. The procession then re-formed, and, headed by the Mayor and Corporation, a detach- ment of the Natal Mounted Rifles forming the escort. Pholt tji fermiiium of Mr. II. y. H-trttmi, Vurtam.] Durban. Lawar West Street returned to the Royal Hotel, where the party was enter- tained to lunch by the Mayor. The company was a brilliant and representative one. On the Mayor's right sat the Duke, the Mayoress, Prince Alexander of Teck, Lady McCallum, Rear-Admiral Moore, the Premier, Lady Robinson, the Colonial Treasurer, and the Minister of Agriculture, while on his -left were the Duchess, the Governor, the Governor-General of Mozambique, General Hildyard, the Speaker of the House of Assembly, Sir 3ia tCbe (ftueen'B WLtsb John Robinson, Lady Binns, the Attorney-General, the Secretary for Native Affairs, and Sir David Hunter. The consular body was strongly represented. Before luncheon, A Pom-pom » deputation of ladies, headed by Lady Oong. Binns, presented the Duchess with a table-gong made of three pom-pom shells niounted on a rhinoceros horn, the gift of the women of Durban. Naval contingents and the Durban Light Infantrj' formed the guard of honour. At three o'clock their Royal Highnesses drove to the station, where there was a guard of cadets, and entered the special tram which was to convey them to Pieter- mantzburg. The journey was made under the most comfortable conditions. Mounted troops patrolled the hne, and Kaffir platelayers were stationed all along it at intervals of loo yards. A heavy "Scottish mist" hid the view as the afternoon wore on, and towards evening developed into a steady drizzle, yet as the train pursued Its serpentine way over a railway whose windings have caused the soldiers to nick-name it " Oliver Twist," many interesting peeps of Kaffir kraals and other characteristic features of the veldt were obtained. It was twenty minutes to seven when we arrived at Pietermaritzburg, and their Royal Highnesses, after a brief official recep- tion, drove to Government House through the illuminated city, hailed all the way by a dense cheering populace. Pietermaritzburg had determined to make the most of Its opportunity, and it did. Wednesday, August 14, was Marltiburg-A °"^ "^ ^^^ '"ost interesting and stirringly 8tlwlii< Day. eventful days of the tour. Once more the 1 u J t^- ^""^^ veriiied the Maori hyperbole which clothed him with the power of calling forth the sun. The morning was radiant, and the arches and other decorations, despite the drenching of the previous even- ing were brave in all their finery. There was a native arch bearing the Zulu salutation, " Bayede," worked in corn-cobs ; a military arch, representing an old castellated Sontb atdca 313 keep ; a floral arch, completely covered with flowers and evergreens ; an industrial arch, illustrating the numerous products of the Colony— coal, tea, sugar, coffee, jam, tobacco, beer, mealies, fruit, and I know not how many more; and a marble arch ornamented with the Colony's "TheOoWenWeb^'^'"^ ^"'^ *^'° '^""^^ symbolical elephants. ofErapiM." Another feature of the decorations well worthy of mention was a device at the railway station, called " The Golden Web of Empire," PI1IO bji fttmiiiuH 0/ Mr. U J tirmlM. Vuriaii.) IHaritiburK. Arrival at the Tawn Hall which showed th- arms of all the British possessions, dominated by a large crown, being caught up in a single web. So there was no lack of variety in the city's gala dress, and the Royal visitors saw plenty to admire in the course of their drive, in a carriage drawn by six horses, to the new Town Hall, the inauguration of which was the first business of the day. The popular reception all along the route and at the Hall itself was perfervid. The Duke, on arriving, unlocked the door with a golden key. 11 3»4 iTbe Qneeit'0 mtgb and with the Duchess passed through the upstandinij audience with which the handsome building-the finest in the Colony-was crowded, the central passage along which they walked being lined by a guard of firemen A large choir, led by the organ, sang the National Anthem with a heartiness which could not be excelled When their Royal Highnesses had taken their places on the platform, in the midst of a distinguished and re- AMtwTown Pr^sentative gathering, the presentation of Han. addresses began. The first, that of the u M r , ^""'^'P*''ty' was read by the Mayor, Mr. Macfarlane. It recalled how the foundation-stone of the original Town Hall had been laid by the late Duke of Edinburgh, and told how the hearts of loyal Natal had been stirred by the prospect of this visit in fulfilment of the Queen s wish. The address was enclosed in a gold-mounted ivory casket, which retained the natural curve of the tusk, supported by two oxydised silver ele- phants, on a pedestal composed of polished Natal woods. On the top was the city coat-of-arms in diamonds. Mrs. Hulett, President of the Guild of Loyal Women, next presented the address of that body in a gold-mounted elephant s tusk ; and the illuminated welcomes of the Medical Council, the Presbytery, and the Town Council of Ladysmith, were also handed to His Royal Highness, special interest attaching to the last-mentioned, presented by Mr. J. Farquhar, C.M.G., who was Mayor of Lady- smith during its historic siege, and still retained that omce. ^ The Duke, in acknowledging these loyal tributes, said : Among those addresses is one which is surrounded with L«ly«nlth'i ^/P^<='^^ interest, for it speaks on behalf great ieUeT«. °' ^^e people of Ladysmith. Up to the ment. later days of 1899, the name of that little town was scarcely known outside the limits of this Colony, but from November 2 of that year it became day by day the very centre of interest and of Sontb Bfrfca 3«5 J'l 3i6 tTbe aineen'0 VBisb anxious concern ii. ,he eyes of the whole Empire. Rigor- ously .n vested during ii8 days, it heroically and with dogged resolve ' kept the flag flying,' and resisted the attacks of the enemy, of hunger and disease, while the outside world looked on with breathless suspense-at times hardly daring to hope-at the repeated gallant attempts to bring relief. It was the stubborn defence of that outwork which stayed the advance against the capital of your country, and in thanking the people of Ladysmith for their loyal address I can confidently give expression to the undying gratitude of their fellovr-subjects for the noble manner in which they shared with their brethren-in-arms the glorious defence of that ever-memorable siege. We are very glad that during our long and interesting journey It has been possible for us to visit the Colony of Natal, and here in its capital to open your new Town Hall that takes the place of the original building, the foundation- stone of which was laid by my lamented uncle, the Duke of Edinburgh. Moreover, I am proud to come amongst ^uV^V^fy^V^^^ profound feeling of admiration which thrilled the whole nation at the ready self-sacrifice with which the manhood of the Colonies rallied round the old flag in the hour of danger, and in doing this I am fulfil- ling the wish of my dear father, the King, who, keenly Sharing those national sentiments, was determined, if pos- sible, to give effect to the desire of her who from the first followed with deep sympathy, interest, and satisfaction the efforts gallantly achieved and the sufferings nobly borne by the people of Natal in defence of theEmpire In this cause you gave of your best, and here, at the heart of the Colony, the thought comes home with in- creased intensity, how few amongst those whom I am addressing have not suffered and made sacrifices on ac- count of the war. We offer our deepest sympathy to all who sent their dear ones to the front, never to return. These sacrifices have not been in vain. Never in our history did the pulse of Empire beat more in unison ; but Sotttb Hfrfea 3»7 ; I 3i8 Vbe Qneen'0 mttb the blood which has been .bed on the veldt has sealed for ever our unity, based upon a common loyalty, and a de- the common burden. It is our fervent hope that peace may soon be restored throughout the r .nent of South Africa, and that Natal may continue to .vance along her former paths of progress, happiness, anu prosperity/' An address from the Town Council of Johannesburg was presented separately, being read by the Government Addrew from Commissioner of the Rand, Major O'Meara. the Rand. "'» Rojal Highness, in the course of his th.f vn. h ""'P^'^' f'^'- "^^^ ""'^ ^'^***^^d t« think that jou have undertaken so long a journey for the pur- po..- of presenting us with this message of greeting from a . v. which is, we trust, destined to rank as one of the Sontb ntrtcM 319 chief cities of the Empire, and at one of the greatest in- dustnal centres of the world. We heartily appreciate your good wishes for our homeward voyage, and we earnestly trust that the clouds that stUi overshado-v the country will soon be dispelled, and that the spirit of brotherly feeling and sympathy may be fostered through- out the community, hastening a happy and prosperous future not only for your city but for the whole of His Majesty s dominions in South Africa." MartUburr. Lt* KltclMMr'a Bodyguard •! C.«wr«i Hi(lita. wlio had died at the front n« *k • »h' Hall their Roval S* '"" '^'*y *° '"** fr*^*" v.(.'. ^ ^^h"^^' Koya ty. surrounded bv the dieni- o.,,>'n. tane, of political and socini life, «„.,% the pjck of the British army in the fielrl rt:: itr^ '""'^'^ 'JTI' »p«-^'y fr- ^' t>; ^ r uw torn v.ro,«.,and Distinguished Service Orders n .h". s. n ; . ' "''' ''Jf*''!''^ ^*'""^' *" confronted -n .lu. sp.n , . „ue ground, with the most warlike arrav ; m. . uvages that the whole Empire could uS K Uchen«, .ho had^ie^^rHv^d IJ^J^^^h it^::d^ '>cen given out that he would not attend. This myster^ -^ncern.ng the movements of the Commander- in-ChlZf was most nepessary. for obvious reasons. On the left o the Royal pav.hon were drawn up the officers and Ln about to receive their •< V.C.'s " and " D S O •. * l riKht Lord Kitchener's bodyguard.lnsl^ifng 'o^ .^st^ ? r vTT "'«'''-^-«> •■-» the .round was k?pt by Folin TT' l'".'^'"*' ^'"='^^^' ^"d «oo Cades Form.ng the fourth side of the square, facip.^ the pa t .on, were seventy Zulu and Natalian chiefs, with Zl at nues. m all the trappings of savage warfare-ostrich f^-athers sk.ns. pamt. hide-covered shields, and splars The Duke accompanied by Lord Kitchener, nspected the d.stmgu,shed soldiers, and then presented them t th iti^srr D^'r ^'° t'^^^ ^^« victoXc^:^ r \ V I, J°/ ?; ^- ^^'"°^"' Mth Hussars; Lieut, (local Capt.) K A. Maxwell. D.S.O.. Indian Staff Com (at niched to Roberts's Horse) ; Capt. W. H. S NicTersnn Army Med.cal Corps; Sergt. Donald Farmer, ist Battalion Sotitb africii 3ai Cameron H,«hlande»; Corpl. H. J. KniRht. ist Bat- talion Liverpool Regiment: Pte. (now Corpl.) A. E. Curt,,, and Battalion East Surrey Re«irnent ; Corpl. H. "*^^' "* Battalion Derby«hire Regimmt ; Corpl. J. Shaul. MarlUlMirf. Ml. R.y.| MlghiWM plnnfa,, the V.C. «. tiM breart •I ■ "Tsaay ■• Highland Lifjht Infantry; Vt . V . Heaton, ist Huttalion Liverpr;,,! Regiment ; Pte. ' . } avenhill, 2nd Battalion Koyal Scots Fusiliers. Fort} tl.ree officers received the Then the Zuhi demonstration b» :,'an. The chiefs and X 3a3 XTbe Queen'0 misb their followers advanced with leaps and wild gesticulations, The Zulu Ohitte. blandishing their spears, shields, and clubs, till they reached a white chalk line which marked the place where they were to halt. There the horde of savage warriors was marshalled by Mr. Samuel- son, of the Native Affairs Office, who wore evening dress and white kid gloves. In the centre, with his bodyguard, was old Incwadi, the supreme chief of Natal under the Governor. Through Sir Henry McCallum, the chiefs pre- sented an address, which was translated phrase by phrase by Mr. Samuelson. It was couched in highly picturesque language, and ran as follows :— "We, the undersigned chiefs of Natal, inclusive of the Province of Zululand, in the name of our own tribes and of the whole native population of Natal, humbly beg to offer to your Royal Highnesses our most respectful and hearty welcome to this Colony. When we heard of the death of our late most Gracious Sovereign Queen Victoria, of beloved memory, it seemed as if the sun had set, and deep darkness was over our land. Great sorrow possessed our hearts, and unspeakable anxiety pervaded us with regard to our future. When we were informed of the accession of your illustrious father. His Majesty King Edward VII., son of our late Queen, hope once more slione into our darkened hearts, and gladness mingled with our tears and sorrow. The great honour bestowed upon us by your Royal Highness in graciously allowing us to have a share in to-day's welcome will ever be fresh in our minds and aff'ectionately cherished by us and all whom we have been permitted this day to represent. Our eyes now take farewell of your Royal Highnesses, but the love and loyalty of our hearts will go with >ou during the remainder of your tour back to your country and home. We ask that you will be graciously pleased to convey to our Sovereign Lord King Edward vii. the assur- ance of our humble and devoted attachment to his Roval person and Throne." Soutb Hfrtca 383 The Duke replied :-"0n behalf of the Duchess and Worthy Fms. ""^^^^ \ ^*'^"'' y^" ^'^^rtily for your warm ■ow Loyal ^^^'^^ »' welcome. We have long looked SulUoeta. forward to meeting the chiefs.of the Zulu people, and we are glad to find ourselves among you and to receive yojir declarations of loyalty M,ritib«rr Th. Duk. .hakluK h-ad. with .n Olllcer .Iter pinnlnir th. V C •n hi. bre«t. Behind HI. R,y.I HI,hneM I. L^iKtUHt^r to the Ming. It is especially gratifying to find that these are the ^vords not only of those who long dwelt under the rule of t,ie Great White Queen, but also of the chiefs and X 2 324 TCbe aitteen'0 TRIIfsb people of Zululand, whom we have found worthy foes, and who have proved tjiemselves faithful and loyal subjects. I am deeply touchy by your words of loving sorrow for the loss of your illustrious mother, the Queen, and I share in your grief, knowing as I do how warm and tender was her heart towards her native children. But do not think MariUbwt. Tkt Zulu GttttH aad tMr Mtowlac that with this great calamity the sun has set for ever It has risen again in the reign of the great King, my father who will have for you the same unceasing care, and to whom I will convey the assurances of your devoted attach- ment to his Throne and person. I am told there are many of your chiefs who are not present here to-day for the reason ihat the Government could not provide the ne- cessary accommodation. My words are for them as well as for you, and 1 will ask you to repeat carefully what I have spoken to the chiefs who are not here. We shall carry away with us to our home across the seas the memory of this meeting and the kindness you have shown us We bid you farewell, and shall ever pray to God for the wel- fare of you and your people." His Royal Highness, accompanied by the Duchess then walked round and inspected the chiefs, each of whom, together with aU his following, raised his hand and shouted "13ajete"-"Hail, chief "-in token of fealty. Soutb atrica 325 The ceremony concluded with the inspection of the Cameron Highlanders, who wore their service khaki- coloured kilts. In the evening there was a reception at Government House, the city was illuminated, and there was a display of fireworks. Among those who had the honour of dining with their Royal Highnesses in the course of the visit, were the Mayors of Pietermaritzburg and Ladysmith. ^ . oTc^A"!'^", *° ^''"°"'' ^^y ^^^ ^P^'" ^^« escorted by H.M.S.Gj6r ' ^^'i 1 ■> ,^ "'*p»*r.,,».^**-"''s***^^^^^»* J Cape T»wii. Native Chief* with Qifte ef 5l(la MaU-UrethodI ■eated in the middle behalf. We earnestly trust that God may bless, protect, and prosper the people of your tribes." The chiefs at the conclusion of His Royal Hi^hness's reply, as at the commencement of the indaba, raised their right hands, shouting " Bayeta ! '' Finally, as the Duke I! ss» TCbe Qticeii'0 TOftb 11 it and Duchess took their leave, the chiefs waved their hats and raised a highly creditable " Hurrah I " After the ceremony their Royal Highnesses drove to Grootschur, the residence of Mr. Rhodes, where they were greatly interested in the collection of wild animals which is kept there in a large enclosure. Having lunched they drove back by a different route through the gaily' decked suburbs, and were everywhere enthusiastically cheered. The heat was torrid, this being the hottest day experienced since we left Singapore. In the evening there were illuminations and fireworks on a lavish scale. On Wednesday, August 21, the Duke was installed as Chancellor of Cape Town University, and at the same OhMMlloroftks ^'""^ received the degree of LL.D. The DalTMslty. proceedings were marked by a decorum which contrasted strikingly with the up- roarious behaviour of the undergraduates in the other colonies. The Duchess, accompanied by the Governor, Sir Walter Hely-Hutchinson, and the Premier, Sir j! Gordon Sprigg, viewed the cciemony from the gallery. The congregation having sung the National Anthem, the Vice-chancellor, Dr. Muir, conferred the degree of Doctor of Laws upon the Duke amid hearty applause. His Royal Highness, wearing a cap of rich red silk and a robe em- broidered with gold, then took the chair as Chancellor, being greeted with three ringing cheers, and performed the capping ceremony. Many of the names called were Dutch. Two ladies received the degree of Bachelor of Arts. The Vice-Chancellor subsequently read a loyal address to the King, and asked the Duke to convey it to His Majesty. His Royal Highness, in reply, said that he had much pleasure in taking charge of the document, and would at once transmit it. He added that he felt most deeply the honour which the University had conferred upon him, and should ever be anxious to further its in- terests by every means in his power, especially in re- gard to the promotion of higher education. Though of Sontb arrica 333 neceH not a resident in their midst, his thoughts and good wishes would be with them in South Africa. To those upon whom it was his good fortune to confer degrees he offered sincere congratulations, and heartily hoped that every success would attend them in their several profes- sions. •' May," he added, •' each member of this our Cap* T«wa. Ti« Chlata' aifU-H«r Royal HlghaMa ln(|icctlot tbcm University be enabled as years go by to strike out for himself or follow up some path of duty or distinction not unworthy of the best traditions of our body." The pro- ceedings concluded with three cheers for the Chancellor and three more for the Duchess. Here, as in the other Colonies, the children were most m Vbe Qnecti'f WUb i ': appropriately accorded a prominent share in the festivities. 1^ 1^^ The afternoon was devoted to the little folk, glu^ 6,300 of whom, Dutch and colonial, as- sembled in the f^ardens of Government House and sang an ode of welcome. A charming feature of the gathering was the presentation of Basuto ponies purchased by subscription among the young jieoplc of the Colony for the children of their Royal Highnesses. Miss Stapleton, who made the presentation, said : " The chil- dren of the Cape Peninsula respectfully ask that your Royal Highnesses wil', on behalf of your own dear children, graciously accep i,heae Basuto ponies as the children's gift to them. ' The Duke replied : " We thank the chil- dren very much for their kind gift, which I am sure my children will deeply appreciate." Afterwards there was a procession of decorated allegorical cars illubtrative of colonial defence and industrial progress in South Africa, headed by the "long Cecil" gun made at Kimberky during the siege. In the evening there was a reception at Government House, . and the city was again illu- minated. There were only two public ceremonies on the con- cluding -iay of the visit— the laying of a foundation-stone TheOokcMd ^'^^ Nurses' Home in memory of the late thalray. Queen, and the buttress-stone of the new St. Georg. 's Cathedral, which is being erected at a cost of £15^,000. In the course of the day the Duke and Duchess enjoyed a two hours' drive round the Kloof. Lord Kitchener telegraphed expressing regret at his inability to be personally in attendance upon their Royal Highnesses throughout the visit, and in the name of the Army wishing them a pleasant voyage and all pros- perity. The Duke replied: "We sincerely thank you and all ranks of the Army for your kind message. Our stay in South Africa has been a most pleasant one, and the loyalty and goodwill displayed towards us here is most gratifying. If our visit is productive of any good Sotttb ariica 335 resuUa we shall ind«ed be thankful. It would, indeed, have been an additional pleasure to us had your presence here been posMble." His Royal Highness also wrote to Sir Walter Htiy-Hutchinson thanking the Colony for the warmth of its reception and reiterating the hope that peace would soon l>e restored. The native chiefs were delighted with their ex|x;rience8, and were particularly impressed by the fireworks. They were taken to see the docks and the Kin/auns Castle, and witnessed the Royal procession. One old chief declared that on his return he must call his people together for three days to tell them the story of hi eventful journey and his meeting with the King's son. The Duke couArreu upon Mr. Rose Innes, Attorney. General; Mr. Richard Solomon, ex-Attomey-General ; Mr. Elliott, lato C aeral Manager of Railways; and* Mr. Somerset l thusiasm with which every man, British, Kaffir, or Dutcn. doffed and waved his hat was quite remarkable. The Ro_\al carriage was again drawn through Simon's Town by blue-jackets. A significant episode of the visit to Cape Colony was the attendance at Simon's Town of a number of the best behaved Boer prisoners, who were privileged to witness the arrival of their Royal Highnesses, in charge of the camp censor and without any guard. They were pre- sent again at Admiralty House on the day of the departure. s since His Majesty, then Prince of Wales, came here in i860 to inaugurate that great public work, the Victoria Bridge, and time has but further developed the passionate loyalty which was so conspicuously evinced upon the occasion of that ever-memorable visit. Here in the com- mercial metropolis of Canada two great races mingle to form one happy, harmonious community, united in sym- pathy of purpose and common interests with Great Bri- tain, and proud of our heritage in the past of two great nations. We joyously accept the obligations imposed CiiniiDa 317 n|x>n us by our partnership in the fortunes of the Em- pire, and. us before on Canadian iKittleficlds, so lately the blood of Canadian soldiers, French-speaking and Enfflish-speaking, has been shed up«»n the thirsty veldts of South Africa." The address also contained an elo- quent tribute to the late yucen, and assured their Koyal Highnesses that nowhere in the ICmpire had Her Majesty's ekvith \tecn more deeply mourne'°ked together in an uneasy union. To-day it is the capital of a great and prosperous Dominion, stretching from the Atlantic to the Kcific of a'col^' TT ""J'^' P°''*'^^' ''f« and administration r.n .^°"*^"*f^ ^"'^ ""'t^d people. The federation of Canada stands pre-eminent among the political events of the century just closed for its fruitful and beneficent times by the union of Norman and Saxon the Fnglish nation was produced, so by the federation of Canada the ^eJTVT ^'^•''^ ^'''"' ''' P°P"'^t'°" have been welded into a harmonious people, and afforded free plav and opportunity to contribute each its best service to the public well-being Creditable as this achievement is to the practical wisdom and patriotism of the statesmen who founded the union, and who have since guided its desti ^r^'i " TlT *'f"°"'-''^ble to the people on whose sup- port they had to rely, and who have in a spirit of mutual toleration and sympathx sustained them in the great work of union. This spirit is no less necessary than it was in the past, and I am confident that the two races will con- tinue, each according to its special genius and opportunity, Z 2 iS^ Zbi Qticcn'0 TOf«b li i. j(vi to aid and co-operate in building up the great edifice of which the foundations have been so well and truly laid. Of the material progress which has 'o^en made since fede- ration was accomplished, the proofs are apparent on every side, and I rejoice to know that the unexampled prosperity of this the first year of the century has crowned the abundant years you have recently enjoyed. May we not believe that this feeling is shared by your fellow- subjects throughout the Empire, now united as it never was before, and becoming more and more conscious and appreciative of those ties of common interest and sym- pathy that bind it together ; more than ever determined to hold fast and maintain the proud privileges of British citizenship." As the Royal party entered the grounds, 5,000 chil- dren sang the National Anthem, and as they left it, " The Maple Leaf for Ever." In the afternoon their Royal Highnesses witnessed a lacrosse match for a silver challenge cup presented by the Earl of Mint J, the competing teams being the " Capitals " and the " Cornwalls." The Duke placed the ball in position, and then from the grand stand watched with the keenest interest what he had expressed a desire to see — a good, hard, and, at the same time, clean game. It resulted in the victory of the "Capitals," to whom His R'' 'al Highness pre- sented the cup, receiving as souvenii. a presentation lacrosse stick and the ball with which the game had been played. There had been a lively scrimmage for posses- sion of the latter on the termination of the match, and one of the players had carried it off as a trophy. It was a nice, clean, new ball that was handed to His Royal Highness witK the stick, but the Duke, who had seen the scrimmage and understood its object, asked, with a twinkle in his eye, for the ball that had been actually used, and it was yielded up by its captor amid consider- able merriment. ALMrofM Match. c«na^a 357 Next morning an investiture was held at the Rideau Club, when the Duke, in the King's name, conferred the r ^.p n following honours:— To be Knight Com- ■oMun. manders of the Order of St. Michael and St. George: Hon. Sir Jtf n A. Boyd, Chancellor of the High Court of Justice of Ontario ; Hon. Liuis Jette, Lieutenant-Gov.rnor of the Province of yuebec. To be Companions of the same Order: Mr. Joseph Pope, Under Secretary of State ; Dr. Peterson, Principal of McGill University of Montreal ; Very Rev. George Grant, Principal of Queen's University, Kingston ; Rev. Oliver Mathieu, Principal of Laval University, yuebec; Mr. Oliver Howland, Mayor of Toronto ; Major F. S. Maude, Coldstream Guards, Military Secretary to His Excellency the Governor-General. To be Knight Bachelor: Mr. Thomas Shaughnessy, President of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company. One of the prettiest and most imposing functions of the Royal tour was the dual ceremony, on Saturday, On Parllamut ^^P*^™'^'' "> of unveiling the statue of the HUl. *^*e yueen on Parliament Hill, by the side of the Legislative Buildings, and the pre- sentation of medals to men returned from South Africa, in the presence of the largest gathering of the public that Ottawa had ever seen. The statue, which is of heroic proportions, is the work of M. Hubert, a French Canadian residing in Paris. It was ordered by Parliament as a Jubilee monument. M. Hebert's work was selected from competitive designs submitted by British and Continental artists. The site is the most commandinj in Ottawa, and overlooks the city. The Duke and Duchess arrived at noon with their suite ana a brilliant escort. They were received by the Earl and Countess of Minto, in the presence of Sir Wilfrid and Lady Laurier, the Ministers, the Mayor, ana all the other notabilities of the Province. The sun shone brilliantly, and the scene could not have been more effective. When the great outburst of chi.ering i5» \t i TTbe Qttcen'f mub with which the Royal visitors were welcomed had Bub- •ided, the Duke pulled a cord, and revealed the itatue to the gAzc of the enthusiastic mnltitude. The signal for fresh plai ..ts was led by Sir Wilfrid Lxurier. and these were followed by the sinKing of the National Anthem. The Duke then said : " It is with ^reat pleasure that the Duchess and myself ossist at the inauguration of the national monument to our late dearly-loved Queen. May each succeeding generation look up to this beautiful statue with feelings of gratitude for all that her long and glorious reign achieved for Canada, and with loving respect and admiration for the bri.:,ht example she bequeathed to them. In that great and nobk- life she was, as has been truly said, the mother »)f her people." (Renewed and prolonged cheers.) The returned volunteers, 134 in number, then ad- vancetl to the table and received their medals. The first to present himself was Lieutenant E. Holland, wlio received the Victoria Cross fi.r conspicuous bravery at Lilhefontein, on the Koomati River, in a rearguard action. When the Canadians were hard pressed and the Boers were within fifty yards of them, he saved a machine gun, carrying off the barrel under his arm. The Duke con- gratulated him warmly on his exploit. Nurses Hurcomb, Richardson, and Forbes also received medals. Last of all to present himself was Trooper Mulloy, who had per- A " Y.O." uki ""^"^"t'y lost his sight by a wound received a BlindHero. ^^ Wetpoort. He was led up by Lieutenant Holland, the latter wearing the Victoria Cross which had just been pinned to his breast. The appearance of the blind hero before the Duke and Duchess on the little plateau in front of the Oueen's statue, where all could see the unique group in the bright sunshine, ♦^v.ked great popular emotion, and the cheers were tked by many a catch in the throat. Their Royal Highnesses both conversed with Mr. Mulloy for several minutes, asking sympatheticallv how he had been hit, and ii CAna^ll 359 wlujther his siRht was irrccovcral.lc. Thi Diirlu-ss n- murktd that s! e had heard of hhii from her sister-in-law, OtUwa. His Royal Hlshacu UnvcillnK the Queen's Statu the Duchess of Teck, who hid visit-d hini in Wynberfj Hospital, addinj,', " When I fjo home, I will tell my sister that I had the pleasure of meeting you." ^J 360 TCbe Queen's MiBb p |- It'? 11 Before these ceremonies on Parliament Hill, the Duke and Duchess, by special request of the inhabitants, drove Viait to Hull. *^'"°"&h the town of Hull, just across the river, in the Province of Quebec. The mhabitants are mainly French, and are engaged in the lumber industry. The recovery of the town from the effects of the disastrous fire which devastated it a few years ago was the subject of cordial congratulations on the part of His Royal Highness. The streets were lavishly decorated, and the heartiest possible reception was accorded to the illustrious visitors. British and French flags were fluttering side by side, and among the mottoes was one in French, saying, " Hull is Rebuilt, Thanks to your Donations." Workmen and schoolboys sang the National Anthem, and the Mayor, Mr. Falardeau, at the new Town Hall, presented an address, for which the Duke thanked him in French. A garden party, held in the beautiful grounds of Rideau Hall, was most successful. The band of the 43rd Regiment supplied the music. The Duke, escorting the Countess of Minto, and the Earl of Minto, escorting the Duchess, walked down between a double line of guests, bowing, and stopping to chat with various groups. The Duchess charmed all by her gracious amiability. It was a perfect Canadian autumn afternoon. Until a late hour the streets were filled with orderly holiday crowds viewing the illuminations. On Monday the Duke and Duchess enjoyed a day entirely free from official ceremonies, but replete with Down the Ra- '"^^""^st of a holiday kind. Their Royal pidt. Highnesses repeated the trip down the lumber slides done by the King in i860, made an excursion on the river in an Indian canoe, wit- nessed a regatta, partook of a lumberman's meal, and saw woodmen engaged in the active pursuit of their craft. The weather was bright and breezy, and the whole outing was most enjoyable. Canada 361 A start was made at eleven o'clock, when the Duke and Duchess and their suite, having reached the water- side by special electric car, embarked on one of six " cribs," log structures, of which from eighty to a hun- dred go to make what is technically known as a " raft." The first part of the trip was through the Remoux and Little Chaudifere rapids. The leading crib contained the English special correspondents and artists, the second Ottawa, OoliiB down the Rapid*. Lady MInto explains to the Ducheu. while the Lumbermen prepare to "shove-off" members of the Royal suite and the members of Lord Mmto's family, the third, flying the Royal Standard, the Duke and Duchess and Lord and Lady Minto, the fourth Sir \\ ilfrid Laurier and other members of the Royal suite, and the fifth friends of the lumbermen and local press- men. The experience of gliding down the rapids was rather exciting and distinctly novel, but there was not the slightest hitch, the lumbermen, in scarlet shirts and i 36a TCbe (Queen's misb sashes and soft felt hats, puiding the cumhrons craft round all awkward points with consummate skill. The bridges and the banks of the slides were packed with spectators, who loudly cheered the Royal party. Upon The Kaplds. Photographed from the front of the foremest "Crib emerging at the bottom of the slides their Royal High- nesses were greeted by numerous excursion steamers with car-splitting, screeching syrens. When all the " cribs " were safely through, the party entered ten canoes, manned by Indians, who like the lumbermen wore red In War Canoes. ^^^^^^> ^""^ proceeded down the river. The canoes formed a most picturesque flotilla, and the voyageurs sang Canadian boat-songs as they pad- dled. Bringing up the rear was a large following of excursion steamers, launches, canoes, and skiffs. The (^ana^a 3^'3 party was met midway by the lar^e river steamer Victoria which was crammed with cheering excursionists. The water was rather lumpy, but the two-mile trip to Rock- chffe on the bosom of the sunlit stream was accomplished without mishap of any kind. From the balcony of the Ottawa Canoe Club the Koyal party then witnessed a race in which seven canoes each manned by fifteen paddlers, took part. There was an exciting finish. An exhibition of log-rolling was also given, and caused great amusement, the performers occa- Ottaw.. The Duke and Duche,, In Canoe with Lord and Lady MInto sionally slipping off into the water. The party then re- entered the electric cars, and drove to Kockcliffe Park where, in a lumber shanty, typical of thousands through- out the Canadian woods, they tasted bacon and bean^ 364 TTbe aiueen'0 mtsb the fare upon which the lumbermen habitually live for months. They then completed their meal w^BBt ''* more luxurious fashion in a marquee. After lunch the Royal party looked on while most interesting exhibitions of tre^-felling, cutting, OtUwa. Canoes (oIiik down the River. Photo Uken by the Author from one of them drL'ssiiig, carrying-off, and other lumbering work were given. Trees two feet in diameter were sawn down in less than a minute, and the other operations were conducted with equal celerity. Their Royal Highnesses expressed themselves delighted with the day's expe- riences, and warmly thanked the millowners who had organised the programme. In the afternoon the Duchess was presented with a superb mink cape, the gift of the ladies of Ottawa. Lady Laurier made the presentation, in the absence of the Mayoress through indisposition. The festivities in the Canadian capital were brought In the Senate to a close in the evening by a brilliant re- Chamber, ception in the Senate Chamber. Tlie hall was specially illuminated for the occasion with myriads Cana&a 365 of electric lights artistically arranged. Between 800 and 900 citizens attended the reception, the Duke and Duchess shaking hands with all. The first to pass was the Anglican Archbishop of Ottawa. Then came Sir Wilfrid Laurier, the Premier, and Lady Laurier, and the oth 1- Cabinet Ministers, also accompanied by their wives, and finally the members of the Heaaquarter Staff, and the officers of the local regiments. The Roman Catholic Church was represented by the Vicar-General and Canon de Guire. During the reception, selections were played by the Guards' band in the lobby. The Sir John Anderson. C;:non Palton. Sir Wilfrid and Lady I.auri«r. Ottawa. In the Canoe* Duke wore his admiral's uniform, and the ' iichess a black dress with magnificent diamonds. Bo n their arrival and on their departure, the Royal pari> ,vere en- thusiastically cheered by great crowds which filled the brightly illuminated streets till far on in the night. i 366 Ubc Ciuccn'8 miBb III From Ottawa the Royal train proceeded in two sections. In the first were Lady Minto and the vice-repal Ottawa Yalley. ^"'^^' ^" Wilfrid Laurier, and the news- paper correspondents, the second being reserved for their Royal Highnesses and their suite. The Governor-General did not travel with the party at this stage, but rejoined it later. All the afternoon the line ran through the richly-cultivated Ottawa Valley. Short stoppages were made at Almonte, Arnprior, Renfrew, and other stations, at each of which there was a demc istration of welcome. Except for these halts, to enable the engine to take water, we journeyed continuously all night, and reached Missanabie, whither large consignments of furs are brought from the far North for shipment, before breakfast on the morning of Wednesday, September 25. The weather was cool and bright after a slight frost. By eleven we were at White River. Thence for a consider- able distance the line follows the meanderings of the stream, affording pleasing glimpses of lake, river, and woodland scenery. Dwellings now were few and far between. Here and there were picturesque groups of Indians around their log cabins, or paddling their canoes on the lakes. At one o'clock the first view was obtained Lake Superior. "^ ^^^^ Superior, which was seen in con- stantly-changing aspects, the railway wind- ing along a narrow ladge at the base of beetling crags, and frequently crossing trestle bridges, the water below stretching away to the horizon, while numberless pine- edged ba\s dotted with islets recalled Loch Lomond and Loch Katrine. The Duke and Duchess keenly enjoyed this romantic landscape, though for a time the sky clouded over and some rain fell. The first 1,000 milesof the overland journey, reckoning from Quebec, were completed shortly before three o'clock and an hour later Schreiber was reached. Here the Duke and Duchess were enthusiastically greeted by a large crowd, including a great number of children, who sang Canada 3^57 The Maple Leaf for E-^r" an.1 the National Anthem, while Miss Kathleen Walker, a daintilv-dresscd maiden of SIX entered the Royal saloon and presented a bouquet. At Fort Wilhnrn, where we arrived after dinner, at twenty o clock, accord, II- to the system of denoting time in this part of the world, a similar demonstration took place Miss Ldith Sellers hrinded a bouquet to the Duchess, and Lieutenant-Colonel Ray presented the Duke with a Winnipeg. An Archlcgmpoaed ol Orain leathern case containing specimens of the mineral products of the country. The night passed most comfortai.lv though many interesting points of wild and broken sctnerv were necessarily missed. At Rennie, at eight o'clock next morning, a stoppage of an hour was made for dres^in- and many of the members of the Ro\al partv alighted for a short stroll. It was a glorious morning, and all were in the best of health and spirits. 368 zbc Qtteen'0 tdtab The train steamed into Winnipeg Station punctually at WIuIdM ^''^'f-P^st eleven. Their Royal Highnesses were received by the Lieutenant-Governor of Manitoba, Mr. M'Millan, and the memlwrs of the Winnipeg. Presentation of the Addres* In front of the Portrait of the Kins Ministry. They then drove through the crowded streets to the Town Hall, escorted by the Canadian Mounted Rifles, the Royal suite riding in carriages decorated with flags. The streets were not lined by military, but by members of Scottish and other national societies. The Scotsmen were in great force, there being over i,ooo, with a band of kilted pipers. The streets were decked. Cana^a 369 and several triumphal arches had been erected, including two composed of wheat sheaves, illustrating the grain production of the province. Before the Town Hall a dais was erected, on which the Duke and Duchess took their places, in front of a portrait of the King. The Mayor, Mr. Arbuthnot, pre- sented an address on behalf of the city. Addresses w-ere also received from the dioceses of Rupert's Land and St. Boniface. The city's welcome was enclosed in a ^'""' ah«i*.lij''l.il' T*'"' '""•"• •' <'"'" P'»<""rt'»'' 'n «lt«cn year,. sum on left Tower repreMnts 1886, Sheaf on richt, 1901 beautiful silver casket, mounted on a base of oak wood taken from the historic gateway of Fort Garry. That of the Roman Catholics of the ecclesiastical province of St. Boniface said they were proud to proclaim that A A * 1 i 370 Vbe d^neen'f WHib they had ever faithfully defended Great Britain's noble standard, even at the cost of blood. They thanked God for the religious liberty enjoyed under the Hritish flag. They had a saying among them, " Heureuse comme une Reine," and they expressed the heartfelt desire that th« Duchess might experience the truth of this old sayinf' even before the most illustrious diadem of the world adorned her Royal brow. They implored every blessing of Heaven on each member of the Royal Family. The Duke, in his reply, said : " Your kind and touch- ing reference to the Duchess is specially gratifying, and Ih« Ovuary of '" ^^^ name, and on my own behalf, I wish the KmpiN. *° acknowledge most sincerely the hearty greeting and affectionate prayers which are expressed in your addresses. The pleasant associations which you hope we shall derive from our visit will be emphasised by the interesting experience of our first acquaintance with the Canadian West, and by the memory of to-day's welcome to its chief city. During our long and memorable journey to the extreme eastern, and thence to the far western limit of our vast Empire, we have seen everywhere many and varied proofs of its steady and certain progress, both material and political ; but I doubt whether in the whole course of that experience a more striking example is to be found than in the compari- son of the Fort Garry of our childhood with the Winnipeg of to-day, then, as you say, ' a village hamlet in a solitude, broken only by the presence of the passing hunter and fur trader ' ; to-day the busy centre of what has become the great granary of the Empire and the political centre of an active and enterprising population in full enjoyment of the privileges and institutions of British citizenship. I rejoice that we have come among you at a time when we can join in the congratulations of your fellow-subjects on the year of unprecedented prosperity which you are enjoying, and we pray that the years to come may show no diminution of that prosperity, or of that energy and determination s^a y-r-:L--.>.a provinc'LT '*'""'^''"''«^' '^' P'°"««" »"d settlers In thi. The Duke, who wore his admiral's undress uniform presentee! war medals to ,04 men who had returned from Wlanlpag. Tb« Dak* dtatribotlnK War Madal* South Africa. Their Royal Highnesses afterwards drove to Government House for luncheon, and the visit, to the del.ght of the people, who were in a ferment of patriotic excitement, was prolonged for several hours, the train A A 2 S7« tCbe ^neen'f Vlttb Itaving at ten o'clock initead of half-past Ave, to enabl* their Royal Highneiiet to witneu a great torchlight proceuion. In the afternoon the Duke opened the new univer- ■ity, and in doing to heartily congratulated the people of the province upon the earnest zeal they displayed on behalf of higher education. Three thousand children from the public schools, in a stand facing the building, sang a Dominion hymn, the words of which were written by the Duke of Argyll. The boys of the Indian Industrial School, mostly Ojibways, gave an exhibition of fancy marching, nnd sang " Rule, Britannia," while eleven companies of cadets went through battalion drill. There was a complete change of scene when, on the morning of Friday, September 27, the occupants of the _^ train looked out of window. They found the ols4 PmM*. l^nciscape covered with a thick mantle of snow, the result of a f^ii! of eighteen inches three day& previously. This snov/i'all entailed severe loss on the farmers, as a large proportion uf the «vheat crops was still standing in the fields, '/'nere was the usual stoppage of an hour fr Iressing at Sintaluta, whither a small crowd of farmers, with their wives and children, had come in from the surrounding country in sledges and buggies, many of them wearing furs, to greet the Royal visitors. Regina, the capital of the North-West Territories, was reached at noon. Their Royal Highnesses were received at the railway station by Mr. Amed6e For- get, the Lieutenant-Governor, and Mrs. Forget, Mr. Haultain, the Premier, the Ministers, and a guard of honour of the North-West Mounted Police in red tunics and white helmets. The bugler sounded a royal salute, and the party, escorted by the police, drove to Government House. The road lay across the level snow-clad prairie, and was a sea of mud, the horses at many points literally wading knee-deep through the m melted snow. NevertheleM. the jolting ride of two miles m carls known as "democrats," and driven by red- coated policemen, was a novel and enjoyable experience, the air being crisp and keen. The Duchess wore the fur cape presented to her by the city of Ottawa. Amonjj the escort was Sergeant Richardson, wearing the Victoria Cross he received from the King in passing through London on his return from the front. The Duke singled him out and spoke to him. His Koyal Highness, replying to a numlier of addresses, «aid : " I am especially gratified at the unfaltering note Royal Trala la tb* 5aow of love and attachment fo the Mother Country which AHlBtferlml- f'"^^ *^''°' ^°"^ *^<^^ messages of greet- • graata. ""»?• ^^e are touched to think that the welcome is extended to us from some of the remotest parts of this vast territorj-, and we cordially reciprocate their expression of regret that time does not admi* ^f our pei sonally visiting those districts. We are glad to find ourselves here in a town whose name will be for ever linked with the memory of our beloved and deeply- mourned Queen. We have been greatly interested in our journey through this boundless land, rich and fertile in its soil, great in its possibilities of development, and we look 374 TTbe Queen'0 Mtob forward to the time when it may be the home of a great prosperous, and loyal people. Contrasting the free, healthy, and useful life which is enjoyed in this country with the narrow and, alas, too often unwholesome exis- tence of the thousands in our great cities at home, one cannot help wishing that the prospects here offered were more widely known and more freely taken advantage of." Twenty-five war medals were presented to men returned from South Africa, among whom were three of Strath- cona's Scouts. The Duke and Duchess took luncheon at Government House. At a quarter-past three the train resumed its westward progress across the trackless prairie extending to the horizon, and strangely resembling the sea. Towards sun- set wider expanses of green appeared, but even these were still flecked with large patches of snow. At Moose Jaw— an abridgment of the native name, which means " The- creek -where - the-white - man - mended - the - cart - with - a- moose-jaw-bone "—there was a huge crowd, including many Indians of the Great Cree Nation. By twenty o'clock (8 p.m.) we had more than completed the second thousand miles of the trans-continental journey, and arrived at Swift Current, an important sheep-farming centre, with an altitude of 2,400 feet. We passed Glei- chen, where, in daylight, we should have obtained our first view of the Rocky Mountains, in the middle of the night. The white peaks were in full sight when we awoke. Calgary, the chief town of the Alberta Territory, where the train drew up shortly after ten o'clock on the morning (Mtuy. °l Saturday, September 28, was the scene of a great Indian " pow-wow," which, if less imposing than the Maori and Zulu demonstrations, was nevertheless one of the most picturesque and interesting features of the tour, carrying us all back, as it did by its vivid actuality, to the tales of the " noble Redskin " which we so eagerly devoured in our youth. Over two thousand Canada 375 Indians had assembled from all parts of this extensive district, and were encamped at Shaganatti point, an un- dulating expanse of prairie a couple of miles from Calgary, with their squaws, papooses, horses, and the swarms of dogs, without which no cluster of wigwams would be complete. Nearly all the braves were in full war-paint. Before proceeding to the pow-wow their Royal Highnesses inspected the North-West Mounted Police, and the Duke, besides distributing 107 war medals to members of the force, made Inspector Belcher a C.M.G. The Qreat Pow-wow. Qroop of Indians His Royal Highness, in his Fusilier uniform, rode out to the encampment, the Duchess and part of the suite Oreat Indian '^"^''"S '" " democrat " carts. They took "Pow-wow." their places upon a dais, surmounted by the word "Welcome," in the Indian tongue. Squatting in front of them on mats and blankets were the head chiefs of the Blackfeet, Blood, Peigan, Sarcee, and Stony Creek tribes, some in war-paint and feathers, others in various compromises between European clothes and 376 TTbe 4 TTbe aineen'0 mub gullies, where the rocks were coated with great icicles, and across foaming glacial torrents. At every bend of the line fresh vistas opened out to delight the eye, while the pure, cool, highly rarefied air was most exhilarating. Stephen, the highest point of the line, was reached soon after nine o'clock. An hour later, at Field, a little roadside station, the Royal train entered British Columbia. Here a graceful evergreen arch had been erected, bidding the Duke and Duchess " Welcome." The whole day was one of rare splendour, and the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York, while enjo) ing complete repose from public ceremonies, were able to spend the time in admiring the marvellous mountain scenery of the Rockies and Selkirks as it unfolded itself in ever-varying aspects of grandeur. Many magnificent glaciers were seen, while the green streaks down the sides of the Selkirks indicated the paths of countless avalanches. The line ascended a steep gradient after passing Bear Creek. On the left, i,ooo feet below, was the river, a sinuous, turbulent cataract. Deep chasms, thread-like cascades, dark belts of forest with thick undergrowth, and bright and many-tinted foliage, charmingly diversified the view, while overhead in every direction towered ice- crowned summits. When the famous 'Dop was reached, the Countess of Minto and a party of four others, warmly wrapped up, mounted the cow-catcher, and rode on it through the loop, a distance of fifteen miles, greatly enjoying the experience. During a brief stay at Revel- stoke, the gateway to the great West Kootenay mining camps, where we arrived at sundown, Lady Minto laid the foundation-stone of a new hospital. Breakfast - time, after another night's continuous travelling, found us at Ruby Creek, so named from the garnets found there. It was a lovely autumnal morning, and the sun was shining gloriously, so early risers who had anticipated the halt for dressing were enabled to enjoy a stroll to whet their appetites. Canll^a 385 VVe reached Vancouver punctually on time at a quarter to twelve. On the station platform wa» a guard of VMM.VW. ^°"°'" "f bluejackets from the ships of Kn„^ A J* "^'^ Squadron, with the ll'arspite's band. Among those who tool: part in the official recep Bickford, and Colonel and Mrs. Warren. The drive to !rin.Inh'"l "^1! '"'"' °"' '''"^' "^'^^'°"' ^"d there were nine numphal arches, two of the finest bein^^ those erected bv the North-West Mounted Police. On a dais in fron" 1 r RovalH ".'"' *''^ ''^>"^' '''- '^-'"'^v, welcomed their Royal Highnesses to the young city on <• the upmost confines of the British Empire." The Duke in hi reply congratulated the city upon the astounding progr.S^it B B 386 Zbc intent WiiBb ;«i had made in the very brief peritxl of its existence, adding : •* We feci deeply the generous spirit which has prompted you to do so much to give us a hospitable welcome, and we take it as a proof that, though you are situated on the vtrgi- of this great continent, your hearts beat as warmly ami your loyalty is as staunch and true as in any part of *--* Vancouver. The Koyal ProcMslan the Empire we have visited.'" Miss Edith Towiiley pre- sented the Duchess with a bouquet, and the ladies of the city offered Her Royal Highness an album of British Columbian views, together with an address, asking her to accept the volume as " a token of love and allegiance." The Duchess conversed most graciously with the members of the deputation, evincing an interest in the local work ill CllUlM S«7 of the National Council of Women which gratified the leaders of that movement beyond measure.' The partj • •" 1 ^ -i4a? \ - fs Vmomivw. Th. Duk. .«d Du«l„« in ,h,„ c,ri.„ then drove to the new Drill Hall, which the Duke formnllv declared open, afterwards distributing a number of Z medals, including one earned by Nurse^ffleck oTottawa' li U J 38a TTbe Queen's Misb who served under the Red Cross with the first Canadian contingent. Six hours was the limit of our stay in Vancouver, and there was not an idle moment in them. Their Royal Highnesses took luncheon privately with the Mayor, and then paid a visit to the great Hastings Timber Mill, which represents the leading industry of the province, and was seen in full operation. Thence they drove through the magnificent Stanley Park, the second largest municipal pleasaunce in the world, with its long avenues of majestic timber and its enchanting outlooks over forest, sea, and mountain. On the way a halt was made at Brockton Point, where there was a children's demonstration and a competition in drill among the cadets of the various schools for a silken banner — the Union *'c»deta.'°' Jack— which was presented by the Duke to the successful corp^.., Among the cadets were many of foreign nationalities, fofc Vancouver is the most cosmopolitan city in Canada. On returning to the town at dusk their Royal Highnesses received addresses from the Indian " converts," Methodist and Roman Catholic. The party subsequently embarked on the Canadian- Pacific mail steamer £:»n/)rMS of India and passed the night on board, sailing at dawn the following morning for Victoria. After dinner their Royal Highnesses viewed from the deck of the ship the illuminations ashore and afloat, the fishing fleet and a large number of canoes forming a fiery procession round the harbour. On Tuesday, October i, the Imperial envoys reached the limit of their western progress. From Vancouver to Victoria the Empress of India was escorted across the Gulf of Georgia by H.M.S. Warspite, Phaeton, Victoria, B.C. ^„^p|^io„^ Condor, Sparrowhawk, and Virago, and a torpedo boat. The juadron arrived at the capital of British Columbia after a pleasant passage, in a per- fectly smooth sea, shortly before ii o'clock. Its arrival in the placid sunlit harbour made a beautiful picture. Cana^a 389 On the landing-stage their Royal Highnesses were received by the Lieutenant-Governor, Sir Henri Joly de Lotbiniire, Admiral Bickford, Commander-in-Chief of the Pacific Squadron, and a distinguished company. The Premier, - f r Dunsmuir, was not present, owing to a calamitous exp.of .en which had occurred in the Wellington Extension Mine, ji which he is the principal owner, and which called for hi presence among the sufferers. The addresses of ^•-- come were presented on the steps of the splendid new Parliament buildings, which were thronged with leading citizens, a great orderly crowd in front looking on. Mr. Hayward, the Mayor, read the municipal address, and there were others from the Presbyterian Church and from AmerlcM-Britiih *^® American-British League of Seattle Leatfue. ^nd other parts of the State of Washington, formed for the purpose of promoting good- will between the people of the United States and Great Britain. The Duke expressed his satisfaction to note the strong declarations of loyalty to the Constitution and pride in the heritage of British citizenship to which these addresses testified. Three little girls, selected by vote to represent the principal schools, handed the Duchess a bouquet, while 3,000 children, on the lawn in front of the building, sang "The Maple Leaf for Ever " and the National Anthem*! The Duke afterwards presented twenty war medals. These proceedings over, their Royal Highnesses drove through the leading streets to the naval station of Esquimault, a distance of three miles, everywhere receiving the acclama- tions of the people. Subsequently they took luncheon on board H.M.S. Warspite with Admiral Bickford. In the afternoon the Royal visitors opened the Agri- cultural Exhibition. The Duke received a gold medal commemorative of the occasion, and accepted a carved stone "doctor" or "medicine man" from the Chief Robinson. To the Duchess were presented three poems and a musical composition, all by pupils of St. Ann's 39° Ube (llueen'0 xniisb Academy, A reception was held in the evening, when their Royal Highnesses shook hands with 500 guests. A visit to the Jubilee Hospital, which the Duke of Con- naught opened some years ago, and an excursion, up the Arm in the Admiral's launch next day brought to a close the brief but highly enjoyable stay in Victoria. A notable feature of the festivities was the participation of large numbers of American excursionists from the State of Washington, whose mountainous coast-line is clearly visible from the city. The return trip of the Empress of India to Vancouver was favoured by the continuance of perfect weather. _ . ^^ There was just sufficient delay for the Back aorou the . , /• , 1 , , . "Rockiei." transference of the baggage back to the train, and then we were off again across the Selkirks and the Rockies, eastward bound. The C.P.R. time-table had been so arranged as to enable the party to onjoy stretches of matchless scenery which had been missed in the night on the westward journey. For the twelve-mile run up Fraser Cafion and through Hell Gate, the Duke and Duchess, with Prince Alexander of Teck, Lord Wenlock, and the Hon. Derek Keppel, rode on the cow-catcher, to which chairs and improvised seats had been attached. There was no snow here, but the panorama of pine-wrapped mountains, precipitous crags, huge topping boulders, and foaming cascades, all fringed in the near distance and now and then concealed by a gorgeously variegated foliage — young maple perfectly crimson, birch and poplar yellow as broom, pine and fir deep olive- green — was a continual delight. The attractions of the cow-catcher were seductive, and most members of the party had a spin. Of the ride which their Royal Highnesses took a cinematograph record was secured by Mr. MacGregor, the official photographer. The experience is one of thrilling interest, and also of slight personal discomfort, owing to the heat of the boiler On the Cow- catcher. Canaba 391 at one's back. The snorting of the engine, the hissing of the escaping steam, and the clanging of the great bell, Mr. W. Manwell {Standard) Mr. J. E. Viiic.-.u (Times) t.Ui'l/li/lj; i vbl) The EuKlish Correipondent* on the Cow Catcher which here takes the place of the whistle, are for„ .ttcn in the whirl of exciting sensations. These I shared with three English colleagues on the cow-catcher of the 392 TTbe atueen'0 Mfsb foremost engine between Field and Laggan, a distance of sixteen miles, passing the Great Divide. The first portion of the train, drawn by four powerful locomotives, toiled slowly up the steep gradient, the line running along a narrow ledge — on the left, deep precipices and wooded gullies ; on the right, the crag-crowned slopes of Mount Stephen, strewn with gigantic boulders and dead timber, swept down by irresistible avalanches. Crawling upward, the train passed under short tunnels hewn through pro- jecting rocks, over several wooden bridges from which glimpses were obtained through dark green pines of foaming torrents far below. Eighty distinct glaciers are Pbato Uken from the Cow Catcher, while running at express speed here visible. Two especially fine ones under Cathedral Peak immediately overhang the line, feeding the turbulent Kicking Horse by numerous cascades. At each bridge or shar,, curve men were stationed with red flags. At one Canada 393 point a Rang of Indians were busy shovelling over the edge of a declivity masses of earth which had recently fallen down an avalanche slide. A huge sign indicated the Great Divide. Thence we descended to Laggan at Banff Hotel, where the Duchess resided express speed, sleepers and gleaming rails flashing under us, and the keen mountain air as we rushed through it rendering greatcoats and rugs not unwelcome. Banff, where we arrived at three o'clock in the after- noon, is an ideal resort for those in need of rest or in quest of health. It had been arranged that the Duchess should spend a couple of days here while the Duke went duck shooting on Lake Manitoba, \i the guest of Senator Kirchhoffer. His Royal Highness did not leave for Poplar Point, however, till lo p.m., and so was Banff— A De- lightful Health ti... Besopt. 394 TTbe Qtteen'0 TRAfab able to accompany the Duchess upon the first of many delightful excursions through some of the most imposing scenery in the world. This was a drive to a large corral, where a herd of buffalo, the last surviving specimens of these monarchs of the plain, and some elk, are preserved in the comparative captivity of a 500-acre run. On the return journey the party visited the waterfalls. From the Canadian- Pacific Railway Hotel, situated in the heart of the most romantic surroundings, the Duchess, Lady Minto, Lady Mary Lygon, and those of the suite who had not joined the shooting expedition, rambled in all directions during the next two days, on foot, riding or driving, and deriving much benefit from the pure, invigo- rating air, the joyous sunshine, and the perfect immunity from cares of state. The train resumed its journey at ten p.m. on Sunday, October 6, and was rejoined by the Duke at Poplar Point on Tuesday. His Royal Highness had found good sport. From a canoe handled by John Atkinson, a veteran guide and trapper, he had brought down fifty-two birds. Some interesting threshing opera- tions were witnessed by the party in a field opposite the station. These were still proceeding, when the familiar cry of the conductors, " All Ab-o-o-o-ord," warned the occupants of the first section of the train that it was time to be off again. North Bay, where we passed from the Canadian- Pacific system to that of the Grand Trunk Railway without InOnUpio. ^"^ change of rolling-stock, was reached at dawn on Thursday, the loth. The morning was dull, and the Ontario Highlands, in their autumn garb of brown, crimson, and yellow, were not seen in a favourable light. We steamed into Toronto at two o'clock. Rain had begun to fall in a steady downpour some time before, and continued all day, which was a pity, since the " Queen City " had prepared a splendid welcome. There were arches and decorations in profusion, a par- ticularly fine trophy having been erected by the Manu- Cana^a 395 facturers* Association, and another, surmounted by an enormous crown and manned by members of the Society, by the Foresters. The military note here was more pro- nounced than at other points of the journey through Canada, ii,ooo troops having been mobilised for the greatest review ever held in the Dominion. Their Royal Highnesses were welcomed at the station by the Governor- V %1 #■■ -Jk*:M fSr^ i^r-y /■" Banff, view from the Hotel areunda General, and 6,000 children sang the National Anthem, accompanied by the bands of the cadets and of the 48th Highlanders. Outside the City Hall nnmerous addresses were pre- sented, that of the municipality being read by the Mayor, Mr. Howland. One of the most notable was that of ! 1 ^ BBS 396 tTbe Olueen'f Mieb the German residents, who declared that they were TwMito'i "«*f^y al' naturalised British subjects, and W«l«om«. were true to their adopted country and " its glorious flag, the recognised symbol of civil and religious liHerty," while still culti ating their own language and passing it on to their children. The Duke, acknowledging the reception accorded to himself and the Duchess in "the historic capital of Upper Canada," said : " Passing through your brilliantly deco- rated streets and witnessing your splendid public works, we are reminded of the value of that extended municipal government in the establishment of which this province How OBtwio ^^^ **** ^*y' ^"^ which it has so thoroughly •'Ledth«W»y."'^^v^loped. I rejoice to think of the prosperity, the material progress and in- tellectual advancement which characterise the general condition of Ontario at the opening of a century, and that side by side with this progress is a spirit of deep content- ment and unswerving loyalty. The free and liberal insti- tutions secured to the people of the Dominion have relieved them from the struggle for the right to manage and control their local affairs. As they have grown in power and influence, their aspirations have been lifted to a higher plane. Their patriotism has broadened and intensified. They have realised how closely they are concerned in the general welfare of the Empire. In no uncertain manner they have shown their readiness to share in the task of defending its int" rests and maintaining its honour and integrity. The deeds of your fellow-countrymen during the war in South Africa have indeed testified not only to the strength of your loyalty, but to the strong military instinct and capacity inherent in the sons of the Dominion. They have fully maintained the noble traditions of your forefathers who fought for hearth and home under the leadership of the heroic Brock. I am glad that during our stay I shall have an opportunity of taking part in a review, and thereby adding to the experience I have Cllna^a 397 already acquired of His Majesty's splendid forces in this portion of the Empire. I have received with pleasure the address from the German residents of tiMOanuu. Toronto, in which they testify to their appreciation of the advantages of British citizenship. Throughout our long journey I have been Pails near Banff Hgtcl interested to find in what high regard German emigrants are held as useful and industrious members of the com- munity in the country of their adoption. We have been looking forward with keen pleasure to our visit to your city. Perhaps I may be allowed to claim some special association with it in the fact that the name which it bore for forty years was identical with the first title con- ferred upon me by my dear grandmother. The enthusiasm OH 398 TTbe aiiieen'0 TRBtob •Yith which we have been received makes us certain that our expectations will be fully realised." During these proceedings the rain never left off. The Duchess stood under a dripping umbrella, held by a member of the suite. An adult choir of a,ooo voices sang Pnnce of England, Hail " and " The Maple Leaf." The drive through the city lasted an hour, the cavalcade pro- ceeding at a walking pace. The populaf welcome was in keeping with the heartiest of the tour. In the evening there was a state concert in the Massey Hall, when Madame Calvi was the principal vocalist. The great review took place next day in the Exhibition grounds overlooking Lake Ontario. It was a brilliant 1 eN»t ■•vtow. *"** imposing military demonstration. The f u- L. '"o'""'"g was dull and grey, but a large and fashionable gathering filled the grand stands, and great crowds lined the enclosures. The troops. ii,ooo strong, drawn up m brigades, formed squares of red and blue topped with white helmets. Before the Duke and Duchess arrived, mists crept up from the lake and enveloped the forces, rendering them hardly visible through the grey veil. The Eari and Countess of Minto were with the Duchess in the pavilion. General O'Grady Haly commanded. After the inspection the Duke, who rode a white charger, dismounted, and presented new colours to the Royal Canadian Dragoons and Royal Canadian Infantry. His Royal Highness then decorated Major Cockburn with the Victoria Cross for his share in the rescue of the guns at Koomati Poort, in connection with which Colonel Turner at Quebec and Lieutenant Holland at Ottawa had already received the coveted dis- tinction. His Royal Highness also distributed 200 war medals. These ceremonies called forth great enthusiasm among the troops and the public, who cheered lustily. The march-past began at a quarter to one, the Gover- nor s Bodyguard leading. The cavalry were particulariy fine, comprising the Royal Canadian Dragoons, ist H ussars. CanaMi 399 and Dragoons, and the Princess Louise Dragoon Guards, Wflfili *'*'' **'*''^ flashing silver helmets. The HsNkla|. Toronto Mounted Rifles, a newly-formed corps, in khaki, came last, and were warmly cheered on their first public appearance. The thtee brigades of Horse Artilltry, including the First, which rendered signal service in South Africa, were loudly applauded. Then followed a superb muster of infantry, comprising the Foot Guards, Fusiliers, Grenadiers, High- landers, Queen's Own Rifles, who are considered the finest ,!fftv^fi|.a: •il^a^t^r-w^fr/!^^ Toroato. CUMr«a*« Wtlcen* regiment in Canada, York Rangers, and Haldimand Rifles, composed of Indians in dark green uniforms. The second infantry division included the Argyll Light Infantry, of which the Duke of Argyll is Honorary Colonel, the Prin- cess of Wales's Own Rifles, and many other fine corps. When it is remembered that all these regiments consist of volunteers receiving only twelve days' training yearly, their soldierlike bearing and steady marching are surpris- ing. They would do no discredit to the finest troops in the wc id. 400 trbe Qnccn'f VUtb i* \ \ In the afternoon the Duke received the honorary degree of Doctor of Lawi at the University. The girl graduates were in great force, lining the stairs and corridors and tilling the front row of the gallery, where the male under- graduates formed a stentorian chorus. Outside in the grounds an enormous crowd awaited the arrival of the Duke and Duchess. Sir Wilfrid Laurier, on entering, was greeted with choruses of " For He> a Jolly Good Fellow," and "See Him Smiling," Canada's most convivial and most embarrassing form of welcome, in- variably sung when one rises to respond to the toast of his health : — " See him UHiling, tec him imiling. See him smiling, just now ; Just now, sec him smiling. See him smiling, just now ! He's a daisy, he's a daisy, He's a daisy, just now ; Just now, he's a daisy. He's a daisy, just now ! " The Royal party arrived at half-past four. The Duke and Duchess sat on the right of the Chancellor, Sir William Meredith, and the Earl and Countess of Minto on his left. They were received with the singing of the National Anthem, and " Thrw Cheers tor the Red, White, and Blue." The Duke, in expressing his thanks for the kind welcome to the province offered to him in the name of OBtwIo'iBdn- *^^ University, said that he would have oatiowU Byittm. "luch pleasure in conveying the renewal of its allegiance to the King. His Royal Highness proceeded : " Looking at this handsome pile of buildings and its ample equipment, we feel that you and the Government of the province are to be congratulated on the courage and energy with which you have faced the task of re-rreating your University after the disastrous fire to which you refer, and on the success which has crowned 11} C.„.d«n. for the .tMdy .dv.„„. „f „„„ , 'tT wi^h ,h. r.-'.rzi- root;: ■ Xilr^':!\"r"^ '•" umver«it> which you have just conferred on me. At the TbIrX'" ^"'"^ 'T'"'^"' '"«^hattheunderBrad«ltes- Sk » ".*""' °^ '">''*«' father-(cheers)-a„ri furthe notice that he has remained in that^s tion o more than forty years. (Laughter and che^s The U^&oT S„V" -»'""'^ *»'^t as the yeaSonTh of inH rK';"'"'"u* "°"^^ ^^^ characterised by scenes of mdescribable enthus asm. In the Pv^ni„„ «.!■ . ^'^ . '^°""'>' °" "■» <«'=»sion of Presided M Kmley's trapc death. The searchlights, whicrwere mounted on the tower of the City Hall, fignjled tl.rorh sentiments. The mhabitants of Toronto were intensely c c m • 40a Ube Queen's Mtsb gratified at the success of the celebrations, which they justly regarded as a fitting climax to the Royal tour in Canada. Starting at nine o'clock on the morning of the 12th the Royal train, after passing through Berlin, St. Petersburg, and Hamburg, reached London at a quarter A Hew London. ^^^^ ^^^ j^^^ jg ^ thriving, well-laid-out city with 60,000 inhabitants, remarkable for the faithful- ness with which it has followed the nomenclature of the English metropolis. It is situated on the River Thames, in the County of Middlesex, and has its St. Paul's Cathedral, its Westminster and Blackfriars Bridges, its Covent Garden, and its Victoria Park. In the last- mentioned pleasaunce a picturesque and interesting cere- mony had been arranged. Th ; Duke and Duchess drove through the leading streets to the centre of the park, where, on a dais decorated in red, white, and blue, the Duke received at the hands of the Mayor an address from the municipality. Immediately afterwards His Royal Highness presented colours to the 7th Fusiliers, one of the foot regiments which took part in the review at Toronto, the colours being the gift of the ladies of London. Indians, members of whose community have been incorporated as the 26th Middlesex Battalion, furnished a guard of honour at the station and also pre- sented an address. The Duke, in reply to the two addresses, expressed regret that it was impossible for him- ,elf and the Duchess to become personally acquainted with the agricultural and other associated industries for which the district is so well known, adding, " We have, however, seen enough to carry away with BuiUWe Imml- ^^ lasting impressions of the vast resources grants Wanted. " .'^. . .,, . . of the Duininmn, which are still awaiting development, which can only be attained by the enterprise and perseverance of its inhabitants, and which will ever call for the steady reinforcement of suitable immigrants from the Motherland." I Cana^a 403 1 he subsequent run through the district, one of the richest agriculturally in the world, afforded ample illus- tration of the point made by His Royal Highness as to the scope m these fertile lands for settlers of the right sort. This, all agree, is the great desideratum. The after- noon was showery, yet everywhere the loyal demonstra- tions continued, people lining the embankments and '^=*(|ff !|ffi ;; fee" i Fnm a inwing ty Mr. C. If. yrjfrrys.] A Canadian SaluUtlon clustering on roofs, at windows, and on the tops of railway carriages and trucks. The Royal train arrived in the evening at Niagara on the Lake. Here their Royal Highnesses spent a quiet week end, staying at the hotel and paying a strictly private visit to the Falls on Sunday afternoon. They did not cross to the American side. Continuing their journey on Monday, October 14. the c c 2 404 tCbe (Queen's Mtob Duke and Duchess reached Hamilton, the " Birmingham of Canada," at noon, drove round the town, HurittM, j^„j received an address from the Mayor, *^Sll" ^^- Hendrie, with whom they took luncheon. His Royal Highness before leaving presented the 13th Regiment with new colours, subscribed by the Daughters of the Empire League. A halt was also made at Brantford, where the Duke ac- cepted a silver casket containing the original long-distance telephone offered by Professor Melville Bell, father of the inventor, who is a native of Brantford, called, for this reason, " the telephone city." At eleven o'clock next day we arrived at Kingston, where there was another demon- stration. In the course of a three hours' halt the Duke received a civic address at the Town Hall, laid the founda- tion-stone of a new Arts Building at Queen's College, which conferred upon him the degree of LL.D., and inspected the Royal Military College, an admirable institution, sixty-five ex-cadets of which have served in South Africa. On their way to Queen's College their Royal Highnesses called at the Hospital and visited Principal Grant, who was a patient there ; and in his reply to the address of the University Senate the Duke made a sympathetic allusion to the Principal's illness. He also paid a high tribute to the Dominion's liberal and comprehensive system of education. The chairs upon which the Duke and Duchess sat at the civic reception were specially made for the King's visit forty years ago, but through some hitch had never been used till the present occasion. The afternoon was devoted to a most enjoyable excursion. At two o'clock the Royal party embarked on the steamer Kingston and sailed through the Thousand Islands, re- landing in the evening at Brockville, where the Canadian Narrows were illuminated in their honour. Having slept on board the train at Cardinal, their Royal Highnesses resumed their journey after breakfast, travelling all day. During a brief stoppage at Cornwall Cana^a 405 St. John, Mew BniBswtok. the citizens gave the Duke and Duchess a complete set of lacrosse sticks for their children. At half-past twelve a short halt was made in the middle of the Victoria Jubilee Bridge, at the spot where King Edward placed a gold rivet on the occasion of the inauguration of the old Victoria tubular bridge in i860. At Sherbrooke, which was reached at four in the afternoon, a civic address was presented to the Duke and a bearskin rug to the Duchess, the latter a gift from the ladies of the town. Another night in the train and continuous travelling brought the party to St. John, New Brunswick. Here the festivities, though crowded into a single afternoon and evening, were none the less hearty and successful. There was the usual crop of addresses, the Duke handed a colour to a deputation of the British Army and Navy Veteran's Association of Massachusetts, a member of which, Mr. Lumb, was born on ..le same day and at the same hour as Queen Victoria; and on the Barrack Square His Royal Highness presented new colours to the 62nd Regi- ment, at the same time distributing over 100 war medals, and conferring upon Captain Jones a sword of honour for good service at Paardeberg. In his reply to the addresses the Duke made special reference to the heavy privations and hardships patiently and heroically borne, by which the founders of the city had proved their loyalty to the King and Constitution. The ladies gave the Duchess a muff and boa of New Brunswick mink and ermine, and at an evening reception in Exhibition Buildings their Royal Highnesses shook hands with 800 guests. In the morn- ing, though the weather was cold and cheeriess, the Duke and Duchess drove to the rapids and the famous reversing fall, Her Royal Highness wearing the furs which the ladies of St. John had presented. Halifax was the last stage of the tour in Canada. We arrived there at ten o'clock on the morning of Saturdaj-, October 19. On a platform in front of the station the Duke 4o6 TCbe Qtteen'0 TRSifeb Oood-bye to received addresses from the city, from the Dalhousie Uni- versity, the Highland Society, and Prince *** Edward Island. His reply was a farewell to the Dominion. "Our pleasure in coming amongst you," he said, " is tinged with the regrev that we are on the eve of departure from the great country where, during the five weeks of our stay, we have received so hearty and gener- ous a hospitality, and have found so many kind friends. It is, perhaps, fitting that we should take leave of Canada in the province that was the first over which the British flag waved — a province so full of moving chequered historical memories — and that embarking from your captal, which stands unrivalled among the naval ports of the world, we should pass through waters that are celebrated in the annals of our glorious Navy. I am glad to gather from the address of the University of Dalhousie that in the midst of the material prosperity which you happily enjoy, you have not neglected the interests of higher education. You recognise that nothing is so essential to the advancement of a people as adequate provision for a training which will keep the coming generation abreast of the march of intellectual progress and scientific know- ledge. We share in your regrets as to the shortness of our stay, which will prevent us from judging for ourselves of the great mineral wealth and other resources for which your province is famed. We trust that the development of these resources already attained is but an earnest of a still greater future. In bidding you farewell we wish to make known how greatly we have been impressed by the affectionate sympathy with which we have been received by the people of the Dominion, and we pray that the Divine blessing may rest upon them and theirs, and upon those in whose hands is placed the guidance of its destinies." In laying at Province Building the corner-stone of a memorial to the soldiers who had fallen in the war. His Canada 407 Photo by fertnustoft 0/ Dr. Manby,\ Halifax. Their Royal HlghncaM and Prince Alexander of Tcck 4o8 TTbe aitteen'0 mteb Royal Highness paid eloquent tribute to both the dead and the living, who had proved themselves to be of the same trusty stock as those who in days gone by had fought for King and country. A review, at which 8,000 troops paraded, was held on the common in the afternoon, and the Duke presented new colours, subscribed for by the ladies of Halifax, to the 66th (Princess Louise) Fusiliers, addressing whom he said: "Your regiment bears the name of my dear aunt, who, I assure you, still cherishes the happiest recollections of the years she spent in Canada. There is also additional interest in the fact that the first colours which your regiment carried, and which are to-day replaced by these new ones, were pre- sented to it by my great grandfather, the Duke of Kent, more than 100 years ago. The old colours have never been unfurled in the face of an enemy, nor is it likely that any colours will again be taken into action ; but I feel sure that the sentiment which surrounds them is a most precious element in that esprit de corps, to maintain which is the pride of every regiment. Viewed in this light, I look upon this trust as no less sacred to-day than it was in the days of old, and I am sure that it will be ever safe in your keeping." His Royal Highness also presented a sword of honour to Major Stairs for distinguished services at Paardeberg. In the evening there was a state dinner at Government House, followed by a reception. The city and the warships in the harbour were illuminated. Two most gratifying discoveries were made by the citizens of the Dominion during the sojourn of their Royal The k Hi.,'hnesses in their midst. They realised, •'BpeakiCMa- *" ''*® ^''^^ P'^^^^' 'hat Royalty, after all, dlan." was human, that it could unbend to a degree which conciliated the most demo- cratic prejudices, and that in solicitude for the common- weal and for the happiness of the most humble and insignificant, it could be as sympathetic and kind as the most thoughtfully benevolent among themselves. There 'A newfontiMan^ 4«9 was, I found, a very general anticipation of frigid cere- moniousness and inaccessibility on the part of the Duke and Duchess which was agreeably disappointed in actual experience, as I hope I have made manifest in the course of this narrative. The second discovery was that the Duke " speaks Canadian." This was a matter of daily comment, and even of sundry leading articles in the newspapers. It was not intended to suggest that His Royal Highness had any particular twang or accent, but the Canadians were intensely pleased to find that he spoke a plain, straightforward English, free from any kind of drawl or affectation, and which they could all perfectly understand. One writer enlarged most eloquently upon the folly of the Canadians in sending their children for a year or so to London, or importing at great expense English tutors and governesses to teach them "the English accent," since the Heir-Apparent himself had none of the mincing mannerisms which had been errone- ously regarded by many as indispensable to polite con- versation. On Monday morning we sailed for Newfoundland. Fine snow was falling as we glided swiftly out of Halifax HewfoniidUnd. "^'^*^"'* ^"^'^"^ ^^e thunder of guns and fireworks from the shore, the latter dimly perceptible as pale yellow streaks and flashes. The escort consisted of the cruisers Diadem, Niobe, Crescent, and Proserpine, but it was augmented for the first ten miles out by the Psyche, Tribune, and Pallas, and the destroyer Quail. When these vessels returned, their crews manned ship and gave ringing cheers. The squadron reached St. John's in the grey dawn of Wednesday, October 23, after a cold and bleak but perfectly smooth two days' run, enlivened by a few welcome glimpses of the sun on Tuesday. The landing did not take place till the follow- ing day, which was fortunate, since the weather was deplorable. There was a heavy and persistent downpour of rain all day, and a high wind threatened to blow the 4IO tCbe dlneen'9 Tiatab flags and hunting to shreds. A stat' dinner was given on board the Ophir. Among the guests were Sir C. Boyle, Governor of Newfoundland ; Mr. Bond, the Premier ; Vice- Admiral Sir Frederick Bedford ; Chief Justice Little ; the Right Rev. Dr. Jones, Anglican Bishop of Newfound- land ; and Monsignor Howley, the Roman Catholic Bishop. The sky meanwhile had cleared, and the Royal party were able to view from the deck some highly successful illuminations, 500 vessels displaying lanterns and other lights, while the warships were electrically lighted up from stem to stern, and the heights were blazing with bonfires. Their Royal Highnesses, on going ashore next day, were received by the Governor, accompanied by the Premier, the Ministers, and Vice-Admiral Bedford. The Duke presented medals to a sergeant and a private who had served with the Canadians in the war. The Royal party then drove to Government House, where Sir William Whiteway read, with great impressiveness, an eloquent address of welcome, which expressed a sense of the high honour done to the oldest colony, in that to it was reserved the consummation of the Imperial progress. The Duke in reply said : " It is a great pleasure to me to find myself among you again after a lapse of eighteen years, a pleasure which is shared by the Duchess, who has looked forward with interest to her first visit to a Colony whose history extends so far back, and occupies so prominent a position in the annals of the Empire. As you are aware, your Colony was the first part of his dominions visited by my dear father, the King, during his tour forty-one years ago. It was his especial wish that, prolonged as our absence from home has been, we should not omit a visit to your shores, where he was certain we should receive a loyal and cordial welcome. The warmth and kindness of your greeting have more than justified our expectations, and we thank you most sincerely for the Dnke's Addnit to the Oldest Colony. HewfotiiiMaiid 411 reception which you have given us. It is specially gratifying that this address should be presented by one who, as a member of the guard of honour, took part in the reception of my father many years ago, and who since that time has borne so large a part in the government of this colony. We cannot but feel that much of the generous enthusiasm with which we have been received everywhere throughout His Majesty's dominions is due to the deeply-seated love and reverence for the memory of our late beloved Queen, whose name will live for ever enshrined in the hearts of the people, to whose welfare her whole life was devoted. I thank you for your strong assurances of loyalty and devotion to the Throne and person of His Majc to whom I shall have much pleasure in conveying the n. Situated as you are without any provision for local defence, you were unable to give the public and significant proof of your loyalty which was furnished by other parts of the Empire in sending contingents of troops to fight side by side with the regular forces and win laurels on the battlefields of South Africa ; but you have shown in other ways no less helpful that the feeling which animated them also animates you, and that so far as your ability and opportunity extend you are ready and willing to accept the responsibilities attaching to you as members of the Empire to which you are proud to belong. Having so nearly arrived at the close of the long journey which will form one of the most memorable and interesting chapters in our lives, we join in your expression of gratitude for the Divine protection which has guarded us throughout. Our hearts are full of thank- fulness for the abundant personal kindness and affection which have been shown to us, and for the display of that strong feeling of pride in our institutions and our Empire which the tour has afforded us. If further proof were needed of the strength and enduring nature of that feel- ing, it is furnished by our reception here to-day by a people whose history for more than 300 years is one of > i i I )! 4«« lEbc ^nceti'f TOM> t continuous unbroken attachment, through many trials and difficulties, to the nation from which they sprang, and whose loyaltv is still as staunch and their devotion as true as it was in the days when their forefathers fought the great Armada in the reign of Queen Eliiabeth. That every success may attend you, that happiness may remain in your midst, and that prosperity may rest on your land, is my earnest desire and heartfelt prayer." The Governor then presented the Duke with two fine heads of caribou, splendidly mounted. A carriage rug was offered to the Duchess on behalf of the ladies. Replying subsequently to an address read by the Bishop in the name of the Diocesan Synod of the Church of England, the Duke said : " Though the oldest of all His Majesty's dominions over sea, your island shows no lack of vigour or sturdy progress, and the figures you have quoted amply prove that the Church of England here advances with the passage of years. I shall gladly bring to the notice of my father your reference to the visit of His Majesty to your shores, and the overflowing cordiality of the welcome which has been extended to us on this occasion." Before luncheon the Duke laid a granite stone on the site of the new Law Courts to commemorate the visit, using a trowel with an ivory handle, carved with emblems of the sealing and fishing in ' istries. In the afternoon their Royal Highnesses att. ad a gathering of 4,000 children at the skating rin s, vhere there was a scene of intense enthusiasm. The c ildren sang with great lusti- ness an ode of welcome specially composed for the occa- sion. A go-cart for Prince Edward was presented on behalf of the young people. To it was attached a New- foundland dog named "Bouncer," in a splendid set of harness. The children of the colony subscribed a cent apiece to purchase this gift. The Duke, addressing them, said : " We are deeply touched by the kind thought of those who have presented this Newfoundland dog and cart 1lcwfotttlMan^ 413 for our children. I accept the gift on their behalf with much pleasure, and I know that cur children will be very much touched and will deeply appreciate your present." A largely-attended reception was held in the afternoon at Government House. SUvwAMal KMMtad to tk* BaglMi C i m>n «« Mt « ky HI* Rmll HtekMM oa tha tcnataMtlM of tk* Tmt 1 CHAPTER VIII 16 1 h' inrard HOMB AGAIN ' pHE Ophir left St. John's, Newfoundland, for the 2_ liomeward run across fho Atlantic- in the grey, b! .ak riawn of Friday, October 25. Sea and sky M^ iuil (-'.ate colour, and there was everj* prospect n{ ;l I iiaiacteristic October fog off the hanks. For two days previously the weather had been boisterously squally, but the wind had gone down over-night and the sea was fairly smooth. The escort consisted of the first-class cruisers Diadem and Niobe, which had relieved the Juno and St. George at St. Vincent. These fine ships, of 11,000 tons displacement, fitted with the much-discussed Belleville boilers, had done admirable work on the long voyage from St, Vincent to Quebec and the shorter run from Halifax to St. John's, and both the C'ana- dians and the Newfoundlanders had been greatly im- pressed by their stately appearance, dwarfing as they did the smaller cruisers usually seen in North American waters. The squadron thus constituted was convoyed for the first five-and-twenty miles of the voyage by H.M.S. Crescent, Admiral Bedford's flagship, which turned back after we had breakfasted. When she took her leave the crews of all four ships exchanged hearty cheers. These were rendered none the less lusty by an extremely gratify- ing "memo" which had just been circulated by the Admiral, and publicly read on each ship, conveying the Royal command to thank the officers and men belonging to the squadron for all that they had done in connection 4'4 I^omc BflalR 4»5 4i6 Vbe (ftneen's TKlieb with their Royal Highnesses' visit to Canada. Referring specially to the review at Halifax, the "memo" said: " His Royal Highness is proud to have seen such a splendid brigade as that which paraded at the review at Halifax. Their appearance and the manner in which they marched past were a credit to all concerned." The sky was still a leaden grey, and heavy banks of mist obscured the land. To guard against fog and ice- bergs — in the case of the latter, as it iMbargUiMd. ^^^^^^ ^^j^ ^ highly necessary precaution —the formation was altered, the Diadem going on about a mile ahead, and keeping a specially sharp lookout, while the Niobe retained her station on the port quarter. All day long the rain descended in torrents. There was no respite ; not a glimmer of sunshine broke the dreary monotony of wet decks and a mist-enshrouded horizon. There had been much airy, and more or less sceptical, talk of meeting icebergs, but as we had steamed sixteen knots for a considerable part of the day, and had thus covered nearly 200 miles before those not on duty turned in for the night, the prevailing impression was that we had passed out of the zone in which they were likely to be encountered. This, like many other hasty conclusions where the elements are concerned, was falsified in the result. The first half hour of the middle watch had not gone by before an iceberg was actually observed, right in the course of the squadron, not two miles away. The signal " Iceberg ahead" was instantly transmitted by the Diadem to the Ophir and Niobe, and in a few seconds the leading cruiser had turned her searchlight on the drifting mass, which was seen to be about 100 feet in breadth, while its depth, since quite 40 feet was showing above water, was probably not less than 400 feet. The night was perfectly dark, and though at first the outlines of the iceberg were nebulous and vague, in the rays of the powerful searchlight, the pale-green, white-frosted, double- humped mass stood clearly out against the foam-cff ^ ' reduced to ten knots. Uv 12,^ th7 n^^ u . 'P^*^*' passed the dangerous obstructLn at ^tZ'^rf'' cables Jeavins it to starboard. These'rch Sr . "' increasing to thern.rCJ:?';Le'r"i„ ^r'^"-.^'^ had been "Sittend d'"V '""^ '"''^"^' ^^"''^^•'' Oale m tfa« ""* """^ o" Saturday it soon became evi.lent Atlantic. that we were in for a rough passage. The .u , morning was thick and snualJv mH tU t the 1 : recorded " sea moderito " fh, ,7"^">-.''"^ though noon shipped a " gre. n sea '^nt it '" '" '^' '''^''''^ flooded theward-rl. and the aprj^rcT'^^'^'V^''''^'' brought a few hours of cheer^ XtZ, t^-^ ,^^Z hard from the north-msf ah *i, 1 • "'^^^ On Monday werd'altile more Tu^: .'i;: 'f 'T''' ment of the rude north-east wind, which shHekd^^hT the nggingand howled round the .'eat fu t ah"" westerly sea keeping the decks contTnuou^ a:^;h ""'^ Dtadem recorded a maximum roll of twenty d ' ees t the a ternoon we passed, far away to starboard aWhie Star Imer threshing westward. Tuesday was brLht nn 1 bracmg, but the sea still ran high and in th.l ■ "^ as heavy and boisterous as ever At noo.? ^h'" n^ T' parted company with the oZ\nd aZI ^""^"" fifteen knots, Ihi.e the othtr e^^eVd t fo tSirTeen^ Th. semor cru.ser was sent ahead to pick up the c;:anrei D D 4i8 tibc Queen's XSlisb Squadron at the rendezvous, forty miles south of the Fastnet Lighthouse, and signal by the M?a7o1?e^'^g. Marconi system the message for the King, ' " All well." Communication by wireless telegraph was established at 4.15 a.m. on Wednesday, and the message duly sent, the Furious being the first ship to take it in. According to the programme, we were to meet the Channel Squadron at nine o'clock, but, as usual, we were ahead of time. The Diadem, having discharged her pleasant duty, slowed down to enable the Ophir and Niobe to come up with her under easy steam, and when they joined at daybreak the "Channel" was seen bearing down upon them from the east. At first the warships were only little smoky dots on the murky horizon, but as they emerged from the morning mists, six superb battle- ships and four cruisers could be distinguished. In the opposite direction, far astern of us, the Furious, having passed on the message to the King, was hurrying up to rejoin the squadron. Eight bells had just sounded, when a puff of smoke from the Majestic, followed a few seconds later by a dull thud, opened a Royal salute of twenty-one guns along the line. The Ophir, under full steam, was now rapidly ap- proaching, and without slackening speed she passed right through the line of battleships and Channel Bqaa- cruisers, followed closely by the Diadem *"";*,"""• and Niobe, the Channel ships all the while belching forth flame and smoke. It was a noble and inspiriting spectacle, a fitting welcome home to the sailor Prince and his gracious Consort. The Channel Squadron then wheeled about, and the ships proceeded in three columns, line ahead, the Ophir leading the middle column, which was otherwise composed of the Diadem, Niobe, Juno, and St. George. The four cruisers which had so well escorted the Royal yacht at different stages of her memorable voyage round the world were Dome aoain 419 thus assigned an hon- ourable place, as was fitting, in the historic homecoming pageant, and the honour was jealously appreciated by every officer and man in these ships. Two hours later the Diadem was once more told off to the post of danger, go- ing ahead, and leading the fleet about eight cables in front of the Ophir. All Wednesday after- noon the fleet steamed, under lowering skies, across a steadily-rising sea, and by night-fall we were once more in the teeth of the gale. It blew hard all night. The Lizard was sighted at 12.52 a.m. on Thurs- day, and the Eddystone Lighthouse was passed at a distance of nine miles at 4.50. An hour later a fishing smack was sighted ahead showing lights. The Diadem turned her star- board searchlight on her, at the same time calling the attention of the Ophir to the small craft's dangerous posmon. In the early morning the third-class cruTse Pactolus joined the fleet, and took her station o„ D 2 P/iM fj, ^tr mission o/ an affic,r.\ Her Rsyal HIchncM 430 Zbc ^ViCcn'B Misb If the port-beam of the Vice-Admiral's ship. H.M.S. Camperdiwn was sighted at 7.50. Viewed from the quarter- deck of the Diadem, the Opiiir and her escort presented a splendid spectacle. The great battleships heading the Stormy Rnn up Channel. columns were dipping their noses deep into the trough of the sea, scattering high volumes of foam on either side, and as they raised them aloft again miniature Niagaras poured over their bows, while the smaller cruisers behind were pitch- ing to such an extent that they were sometimes almost lost to view amid the breaking seas which swept over their forecastles. The force of the gale may be inferred from the fact that the tvvo-inch-thick stanchions of the rail of the Diadem's forebridge, from the sheer weight of the wind-pressure upon the canvas by which it is surrounded, were bent six or eight inches out of the per;'-.ndicular. The sea in the Channel was the whitest we had seen in the whole course of the tour. Between the white horses which topped the billows, every foot of water was streaked with foam. So long a spell of dirty weather we had not encoimtered before, and only twice had we seen a sea as rough as the Atlantic— when crossing the great Bight of Australia, and between Adelaide and Fremantle, when the Ophir was compelled to put back into Albany. The Royal yacht behaved well throughout the storm. For the most part she rolled less than any of the cruisers. As a rule she pitched more than she rolled, and coming up Channel she certainly was pretty lively in this respect. By eleven o'clock we were off Portland Bill. It was expected that the Ophir would anchor in Portland Harbour for the night, but it was still blowing great guns, and the Koyal yacht was shipping heavy seas over her bows. She accordingly held on her course, and anchored for the night in the Yarmourh Roads. The King and Queen came out next day in the new- Royal yacht Victoria and Albert, and met the squadron. So high a sea was still running, that it was impossible to i. tbome again 421 -, 432 Zbc aiucen'0 Mteb At OnUdhall. board the Ophir, but greetings were exchanged from a steam barge that conveyed their Majesties IfaitfMultaMB. alongside. The landing at Portsmouth took place at four o'clock in the afternoon, when there was a joyous family reunion on board the Victoria and Albert. As was to be expected, the home- coming was the occasion of national rejoicing. London's official welcome to their Royal Highnesses, upon whom the titles of Prince and Princess of Wales had meanwhile been conferred by the King, took the form of a banquet at the Guildhall, one of the most brilliant and memorable ever held within those historic walls. The City's address, after referring to the happy anticipations and good wishes of the people with which the Prince and Princess had started upon their mission, said : " The hopes and anticipations thus confidently formed have been more than fully realised, and the dignity, courtesy, and never-failing tact of your Royal Highness and of your gracious Consort, the Princess of Wales, have confirmed and accentuated among our brothers and sisters in the many and far-off colonies and dependencies of the British Crown that loyal love and attachment to the Old Country and its beloved Sovereign that has ever been their distinguishing characteristic." The Lord Mayor, Sir Joseph Dimsdale, in proposing the toast of the day, the health of the Prince and Princess, spoke of the tour so happily accomplished ^^'utaiSkT ^^ "* journey unequalled in fable," and Fable. remarked that their Royal Highnesses needed no assurance from him that the delight of the City of London and of the whole Kingdom in welcoming them back equalled in loyalty, fervency, and affection any with which they had been acclaimed by their fellow-subjects in any quarter of the globe. This record would not be complete without the Prince's reply, to which statesmen of both parties, the fathers of the City, and the men of light and leading in every profession. Dome aoafn 433 listened with rapt attention and wondering delight, for it came to them as a revelation both in oratory and in statesmanship. The Prince of Wales, who was received with prolonged cheering, said : " My Lord Mayor, my Lords, Ladies, and rintSpMehu ^^"^•^'"en,— In the name of the Queen PrlBo* of Wain. ^"<^ *he other members of my family, and on behalf of the Princess and of myself, I thank you most sincerely for your enthusiastic reception of this toast, proposed by you, my Lord Mayor, in such kind and generous terms. Your feeling allusion to our recent long absence from our happy family circle gives expression to that sympathy which has been so universally extended to my dear parents, whether in times of joy or sorrow, by the people of this country, and on which my dear mother felt she could reckon from the first days of her life am^ng us. (Cheers.) As to ourselves, we are deeply sensible of the great honour done us on this occa- sion, and our hearts are moved by the splendid reception which to-day has been accorded to us by the authorities and inhabitants of the City of London ; and I desire to take this opportunity of expressing our deepest gratitude for the sympathetic interest with which our journey was followed by our fellow-countrymen at home, and for the warm welcome with which we were greeted on our return. You, my Lord Mayor, were good enough to refer to His Majesty having marked our home-coming by creating me Prince of Wales. (Cheers.) I only hope that I may be worthy to hold that ancient and historic title, which was borne by my dear father for upwards of fifty-nine years. (Cheers.) My Lord Mayor, you have attributed to us more credit than I think we deserve — (cries of ' No ') for I feel that the debt of gratitude is not the nation's to us, but ours to the King and the Government for having made it possible for us to carry out, with every considera- tion for our comfort and convenience, our voyage, unique in its character, rich in the experience gained, and in the 4^4 Vbe atneen'8 mtab memories of warm and affectionate greeting from 'the many races of His Majesty's subjects in his great Domi- nions beyond the seas. (Cheers.) And here, in the capital of our great Empire, I would repeat how pro- foundly touched and gratified both the Princess and I have been by the loyal affection and enthusiasm which invariably characterised the welcome extended to us throughout our long and memorable tour. It may inte- rest you to know that we travelled over 45,000 miles, 3j,ooo of which were by sea, and I think it is a matter on which all may feel proud that, with the exception of Port Said, we never set foot on any land where the Union Jack did not fly. (Prolonged cheers.) Leaving England in the middle of March, wc first touched at Gibraltar and Malta, where, as a sailor, I was proud to meet our two great Fleets— the Channel and the Mediterranean. Passing through the Suez Canal— that monument of the genius and courage of a gifted son of the great friendly nation across the Channel — (cheers) — we entered at Aden the gateway of the East, and we stayed for a short time to enjoy the unrivalled scenery of Ceylon and that of the Malayan Peninsula, and the gorgeous displays of their native races, and to see in what happy contentment these various peoples live and prosper under British rule. Perhaps there was something still more striking in the fact that the government, and commerce, and every form of enterprise in these countries are under the leadership and direction of but a handful of our countrymen, and we were able to realise the high qualities of the men who have won and who have kept for us that splendid position. (Cheers.) Australia saw the consummation of the great mission, which was the most immediate object of our journey, and you can imagine the feelings Mil Royal Highneu'i Impreulom. of pride with which I presided over the inauguration of the first representative Assembly of the new-bo monwealth, in whose hands are plact Australian Coni- he destinies of f\ t>ome B0aln 495 that great island-continent. (Cheers.) During the happy stay of many weeks in the different States, we were able to gain an insight into the working of the commercial, social, and political institutions of which they justly boast, and to see something of the great progress which the country has already made and of its capabilities, while at the same time making the acquain- tance of many of the warm-hearted and larRe-minded men to whose personality and energj- so much of that progress is due. New Zealand afforded us a striking example of a vigorous, intelligent, and prosperous people, living in the full enjoyment of free and liberal institutions, and where many interesting social experiments are being put to the test of experience. Here we also had the satisfaction of meetmg large gatherings of the Maori people, once a brave and resolute foe, now peaceful and devoted subjects of the King. (Cheers.) Tasmania, which in natural characteristics and climate reminded us of the Old Country, was visited when our faces were at length turned homeward. Mauritius, with its beautiful tropical scenery, its classical, literary, and historical associations, and its population gifted with all the charming characteristics of Old France, was our first halting-place on our way to receive in Natal and Cape Colony a welcome remarkable in its warmth and enthusiasm, which appeared to be accentuated by the heavy trial of a long and grievous war under which they have suffered. To Canada was borne the message, already conveyed to Australia and New Zealand, of the Motherland's loving appreciation of the services rendered by her gallant sons. In a journey from ocean to ocean, marvellous in its comfort and organisa- tion, we were enabled to see something of Canada's matchless scenery, the richness of its soil, the boundless possibilities of that vast and partly-explored territory. We =asv% too, the success which has crowned the efforts to weld into one community the peoples of those two great races. Our final haJting-place was, by the express desire k\ 4a6 Vbt ^MCWt Miab of the King, Newfoundland, the oldest of our Colonies, and the first visited by His Majesty in i860. The hardy seafaring population of this island gave us a reception the cordiality of which is still fresh in our memories. Now, if I was asked to specify any particular impression derived from our journey I should unhesitatingly place before all others that of loyalty to the Crown and of attachment to the Old Coun- try. (Cheers.) It was, indeed, touching to hear the invariable references to " home," even from the lips of those who never had been or were ever likely to be in these islands. And with this loyalty were unmistakable evidences of a consciousness of strength, a consciousness of a true and living membership in the Empire, and a consciousness of power and readiness to share the burdens and responsibilities of that member- ship. (Cheers.) And were I to seek for the causes which have created and fostered this spirit, I should venture to attribute them in a very large degiee to the life and example of our late beloved Sovereign. (Cheers.) It would be difficult to exaggerate the signs of genuine sorrow for her loss and of love for her memory which we found among all races in the most remote dis- tricts which we visited. Besides this, may we not find another cause — the wise and just policy which in the last half century has been continuously maintained towards our Colonies? As a result of the happy relations thus created between the Mother Country and her Colonies, we have seen their spontaneous rally round the old flag in defence of the nation's honour in South Africa. (Cheers.) I had ample opportunities to form some esti- mate of the military strength of Australia,- New Zealand, and Canada, having had the privilege of reviewing upwards of 60,000 troops. Abundant and excellent material is available, requiring only that moulding into shape which can be readily effected by the hands of capable and experienced officers. I am anxious to refer to an admirable movement which has taken strong root in both Australia and New Zealand, and that is the Cadet Corps. On several occasions I had the gratifica- tion of seeing march past several thousand cadets, armed and equipped, who, at the expense of their respective Governments, are able to go through a military course, and in some cases with an annual grant of practice ammunition. I will not presume, in these days of Army reform, to do more than call the attention of my friend the Secretary of State for War to this interesting fact. To the distinguished representatives of the commercial interests of the Empire whom I have the pleasure of meeting here to-day I venture to allude to the impression which seemed generally to prevail among their brethren TiMOIdOoaatry **^''°*' ^^^ ^^^s, that the Old Country must nut Wskc ip. ^^^e up if she intends to maintain her old position of pre-eminence in her colonial trade against foreign competitors. (Cheers.) No one who had the privilege of enjoying the experiences which we had during our tour could fail to be struck with one all-prevailing and pressing demand— the want of popula- tion. Even in the oldest of our colonies there were abundant signs of that need, boundless tracts of country yet unexplored, hidden mineral wealth calling for develop- ment, vast expanses of virgin soil ready to yield profitable crops to the settlers. And all this can be enjoyed under conditions of healthy living, liberal lavs, and free institu- tions, in exchange for the overcrowded cities and the almost hopeless struggle for existence which, alas, too often is the lot of many in the Old Country. But one condition, and one only, is made by our colonial brethren, and that is, ' Send us suitable emigrants.' I would go further, and appeal to my fellow-countrymen at home to prove the strength of the attachment of the Motherland to her children by sending to them only of her best. (Cheers.) By this means we may still further strengthen, or at all events pass on unimpaired, that pride of race 1 4li Vbe Queen's mub that unity of sentiment and purpose, that feeling of common loyalty and obligation, which knit together and alone can mamtain the inttgrity of our Empire." (Loud and prolongeil cheers.) The Earl of Ro8eb«!r> , in proposing " The Colonies " or as he preferred to call them, " The Hritains beyond the Ur* RoMbwy'i ^•''"''" d^^scribed the Imperial tour as " the ■•tmvMt "^"St illuBtri«His that has ever lH.en chro. nicled in hustory." In a most interesting retros|)ect he pointed out that in the old days our mun- archs had neither the means nor the wish to travel. In the very old days they had not an Empire to travel in. Queen Elizal>eth, whose progresses arc famous, confined them to her own Kii-gdom. James i. crossed and re- crossed the border. Ceorge i. and George ii. visited Hanover, as the merchant of the City of London visits his villa m the neighbourhood of his place of business, (.eorge in. never left England. George iv. visited the capital of his United Kingdom and of Hanover; but William IV. never left England during his reign. The late lamented gueen travelled, though not so much as she would have wished, for, no doubt, one of the aspira- tions of her life was to person.dlv visit the outlying pi^rtions of her Emjiire. I-:dwar(l vii. has visited Canada and India, and he has travelled all through the United Kingdom, .ut"it was left to the Duke of Cornwall to make the entire circuit of the Empire, and to come back and meet with his reward from his Sovereign— the title of Prince of Wales— in recognition of his splendid work." His lordship confidently predicted the final federation of the whole Empire. Mr. Chamberlain, the Colonial Secretary, in respond- ing to the toast, spoke of the ^rrowth of those sister The most "^itions and dependencies which we are Striking Featurct. prund to reckon among the possessions of the iJiitish Crown, in little more than a generation, and their growing sympathy with ourselves, as th« most striking features of our common history. In that period, he pointed cut, the white {wpiilation of our Colonifs has more than doubled, the revenues of the Colonics have Ixcome more than fourfold, and thi- trade of the Colonies with the Mother Country has increased two and a half times. This marvellous progress, this growth in all that gf>es to makt> great nations, happily for us and for them, has been accompanied by a still more eager claim on the part of the Colonies to lie considered as joint heirs nith us and as partners in the glories and traditions of the Hritish Empire. The Prinu Minister, the Marquis of Salisbury, in pro- posing the health of the Lonl Mayor, said : "It is no doubt true that just at this mfunent we have ■attcrlaa "''iny enemies, who an- not very reticent Ratihell "" the expression of their opinion, but, «m tlie oUioi Iriiul, this occasion, largely due to the action :iii ,, ,,•!• own kin who lielong to our own Empire. V received from all portions of that Empire a ■'. .] that we have lost nothing in the opinion which rlu either of our tenacity or the justice of our cl.iitn- owe largely to their Royal Highnesses the suu..-iv>ning forth of that expression of opinion at a critical time, and you, my Lord Mayor, and the Corporation of London, have rendered no light service in bringing that strong opinion before the world." .♦- lOMDON fRINTED BY BVIIE AMD Sl>OTTtlWOODK Hit MAJESTY'S PRINTERS DOWNS PARK ROAD, R.E. E AND DUCHESS OF COKNWALL AND VORK. A ROUTE. in HOIITH. THE IMPERIAL TOUK OF T.K.FI. THE DUKE AI r^ ' ^^ )fiAf B^^Bi CAMIOA^ % in aO*> mC^ ^ EUROPE ^ t/M/reo C2* fS^H^ 0^ STATeS BH ^L ^lflO>^t^ B "^^T^^^m V^OJsnc^ fe ^ ^ St> \.3fviitct,yr ArP/CA 7 ^"^ V \ /^ SOUTH f \ C ^^AMfR/CA Y ii THK SEA ROl C >!» /V >* Z3 A Bff/r/SH COLUMB/A *^% *> HIT* HIN-^oN *M' THH I.ANl) RO KK AND DUCHESS OF CORNWALL AND YORK. SEA ROUTE. .AMI) UOIITH.