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Les diagrammes suivants iiiustrent ia mAthode. i errata id to fit ie pelure, 9on A n 1' f .■ 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 32X "\. ♦ % i J- » ♦ 1^ ♦o 1 m '•r TRAVELS THROUGH THE « UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, IN THE YEARS 1806 % 1807, and 1809, 1810, ^ 1811 ; INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF PASSAGES BETH'IXT AMERICA f BRITAIN, AND TEATEL8 THROUQH TAIIIOOS rARTS Or Brttatn, f relantr, anti Canatia. WITH CORRECTIONS AND IMPR0VEM8«(TS TILL 1815. ILLUSTRATED BY COLOURED MAPS AND PLANS. BY JOHN MELISH. WITH AN APPENDIX, CONTAINING A LETTER FROM CLEMENTS Bl rv...?IGH, ESQ. TO IRISH KMIORANTS REMOVING TO AMXRICA, AND HINTS, BY THE SHAMROC SOCIETY, NEW-YORK, TO IHIOaAMTS FROM RVROPI. P?iiladelphia ; printed for the Author. EonDon : REPRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REBS, ORMB, & BROWKT ; AND JOHN CUMING, DUBLIN. Jf0^ 1,1618. PRErAC'K. TiTE journjil of a traveller, when jiKlicioiisly comniktl, prcveiU-. a livhfr pictwe (»f the stale of the coimtry throutrh which he pas- ses; while the interest that is exeited by the narrative frrjitincs th* lUncy, and combines to rentier this at onee an entertainin>r jmi instructive species of reailin<; I lenco we find that books of ira- vels have of late multiplied to a jjfreat extent, and are always in demand with the public. 'J'he field is inexhaustible, and mu^t continue so while society is in a progressive slate. No c«)untry presents a more ample field for inquiry than the United States of America ; tind it is e<|ual]y inip rtant, whether we view it in regard to the inhabitants of America or of liii- tain. The former fiml themselves in possessitm of uu innuendo territory, n great part of which is still unoccupied, or viry thin- ly inhabited, t»o that there is room for the indn^iry of thousands tu" generations yet unborn ; nnti jis if by the sjjecial order of IVovi- (lencc, mankind are invited into the most distant re^iions of the countrvj by the advantages of soil and climate, no where ex'eed- cd in the world. Sprung fnun the oidy country which, at the pe- riod of the setthMuent of America, possesscil any thing like ration- al freedom, the piinciples of the popular braneh of ihe Brilinh con- t])lo spruu"- mostly from the same ancestors with themselves ; they >j)eak tin- same language,, they have the same niainiei^ and hahils, auvl the\r are in a considerable degree governcil by liie same laws. Tlu.V surplus commodities, and their demand lor liriiiish manufacture, have for a long peri oil induced an exchange highly favourable to Britain. From these circumstances, a native of ihilain finds hiin- self at home in America; and thou^;andsofii;duNlriou.«s liuuilies, who « ll VI PREFACE. li have mot with nn hoHpitabie recrptinn oiu) n happy asyhim in the hind, can haav nnipic tOHtiinony to the vnluc of it. The two na- tions are indeed formed to be mutually bcnoficinl to each otiier ; nnd though IVovideneo, for wise reasons, no doubt, has allowed the con- nection to be cut ofl'for the present, yet it is to be hoped it will be nguin revived to mutual advantage; for there is one link in the rlmin — the identity of language, which never can be dissolved. To the inhabitants of otlier countries America is also important, as it holds out the right hand of fellowship to all nations, unincum- bered by entangling alliances with any ; and though many who vi- sit the country for commerce or permanent settlement will necessn- rily for a time labour under some disadvantages, arising from a dif- ferent langutige and other local circumstances, yet they will find an liospitable reception, and an enjoyment of perfect freedom and security. ^Vll< n, jji consequence of having formed a commercial connection in the United Stales, in the year 1800, it became necessary for mo to visit that country, I had no intention of publishing my travels, nor did I think that my observations would hare been sufficiently extensive or interesting to be laid before the public. But many circumslnnces have concurretl to render them more important than I had originally imagined ; and a second journey to the country led to nn investigation, the result of which I now consider worthy of publication. The following brief review will illustrate my motives and doMgn ; and it is with much deference submitted to a candid public. In the year 1708 I made a voyage to the West Indies, during \\l(irh I laitl the h)undation of a series of studies on geography, nstroiiouiy, natural philosophy, and chemistry, connected with na- ligation, and the theory of winds, tides, and currents, in the At- l.ititic Ocean. My voyage to America afTorded an ample opportu- nity for resuming these studies, which 1 did not fail to take advantage of, and I accordingly kept a journal. After landing in America I continued my journal; and circumatanccs having occurred which rendered it necessary to make a more extended tour, and to reside longer in the country than I originally intended, I used every dili- ticncc in my power in making observations, and committing them to writing. ^ly tour was rapid ; but my mode of procuring infor- mation was such as I trust will render even that part of my journal rK>t uninteresting, particularly to those engaged in commerce. Previous to leaving Britain I had [)erused all the "Travels in A- merica" to which I had access; but the plan of none of them pleas- ed me, and I found many of them to contain such cfftisions of igno- rance and spleen, that 1 came to the resolution to discard the whole, and to take for the basis of my information the best map and ga- zetteer of the United States 1 could procure, and these were my constant companions in my travels through the country. When l / I isyliim in le two na- tllicr; niut (1 ihecoii- I it will be ink in the lived, niportnnf, uninciini- ly who vi- II nccossn- lom u dit- ill find nri cduin and onncction iry for me ly travels, ufficioiitly 3ut many rtaut than ountry led worthy of ly motives ) a candid s, during I rnFFACR. V arrival in a new state, I examined it in the map and gazetteer ; and the information derived from these I eonfirmed or corn ited by personal obseivntit)n, ond information iVom tliose to whdiii I Icid aecesh. I observed the like course with re;^nrd to every tlistritt, town, vilhiji;e, lake, or river which I passed or saw; and haviimeon,- mitted the result to ]>aper,^in the shortest manner ptissible, 1 com- pdcd my journal from these notes at my leisure. In this manner I travellcil through part of (Jeor^'ia, South Cnroiinr, New York, Ulinde Is-land, Massaehusetts, (oimectirut, New .Jersey, Pennsyl- vania, Delaware, Maryland, District of Columbia, V ir<^ini;», and North Carolina ; so that I had oceiiRion to see and make ol)Nerva- tioiis on all the Atlantic states, ineliuiing the ))rincipal cities, rivers, bays, 8cc. on the eastern eoost. Next year I returned to Britain, wliere I followed up my plan of making memorandums, principally by noticinii^ the nature of the American trade, and the munutuetures in Hritain calculated iur America. The commerciid pursuits in which I had been enfroped h.ivinp; beeti interrupted, 1 returned to America in the year 1S(){>, in or- der to re-organize the business, or to wind it up; and, liaviiible subscribers, and those gentlemen who favoured me with information, I beg leave to re- turn my most sincere thanks for their encouragement and assistance ; and my thanks are due to the American public generally, for the kind attention with which I have been treated during ray exten- sive travels through the country. On the other hand, 1 trust this work will be found not altoge- ther unworthy of public attention. Independent of the casual in- formation collected while I was engaged in other pursuits, it has been the result of incessant labour, of both body and mind, for near- y two years, in which I have had every aid that books, maps, charts. Hi M FRBTACB. "Vll rork might riiis is the :orporate a ivels, and I it might be Lind territo- f the narra- ippropiiate. s given by when 1 tra- nsiis of the of the po- led notes at d an alpha- place of a render the [' making it ce of local lot calculat- his country The late id has not moral prin- I The con- ^ own pro- my narra- te done so ny of my to such I on lightly, sen drawn lerica. I I am con- for truth le : I am 1 give me md those ive to rc- Issistance ; for the ny extcn- )t altoge- :asual in- 3, it has Ifor near> is, charts. and verbal information could give me. If it is found ilefcctive, I have no plea but want of capacity ; I have done my best. As the facts have been collected with great tare, so they have been com- municated with a strict adherence to truth, and with a view of f)romoting the best interests of mankind, by a sincere friend, who las no motive for deceiving them. With these observations I con- sign the work to the tribunal of the pubhc, and 1 shall bow with submission to their decree. JOHN MELISIL Philadelphia^ October 12, 1812. POSTSCRIPT. The distinguished approbation which this work has received,* and the probability that there will be an increased demand for it in ctmsequence oi the peace which has happily been established between Britain and America, has induced the author carefully to revise it, to correct inaccuracies. Philadelphia y Marchy 1815. * Etlract <^ a Letter from Mr. Jefferson. I have read your Travels with cxireme siitisfactton and infumiation. As tti the w«s- trrn states, particularly, it has greatly edified me ; for of the actual condition of tliat interesting portion of the country I had not an adequate idea. I feel myself now as fuiiiiliar with it, us with the condition of the maritime states. llie candour with which you have viewed the manners and condition of our citizens, is so unlike the narrow prejudices of the French and llnglisli travellers preceding yuu« who, considering each the manners and habits of their own people as tlie only ortho- dux, have viewed every thing difl'cring from that text as boorish and barbarous ; that your work will be read here extensively, and operate great good Extract Jrom the Port Folio. Jlere is a kind of plienomennn. Two whole volumes of Travels in America without any material errors ; with no palpable falsehoods ; no malignant abuse of individuals ; no paltry calumnies on the institutions of the United States. — The author is a plain practical man, whose obser\-ations are chiefly valuable on account of the stamp of trutli and simplicity which they l)ear, and who has examined the United Sutes as many others are interested in regarding it, as a safe asylum for those who are al>out to form cither commercial or agricultural establislur.eiits. He is obviously a shrewd and scnsi- hlo obser\er, and there is a clearness in his perceptions, and an accuracy in his details, which is very satisfactory, lliisi work contains a number of highly intcitsting anil .iiriouk statikticul paper*, which add much to iis value. < i f INTRODUCTION I SHALL commence my introductory remarks by a short de- scription of the City of Glas^^ow. Glasgow is situated on the north side of the river Clyde, at the head of the tide water. It is 400 miles from Louden, 42 from Edinburgh, and 22 from Greenock, which may be considered as its port It is the second city in Scotland, and contained, by the enumeration of 1801, 77,'i85 inhabitants. The city is regularly built, and the houses, being all of free-stone, have a very ele- gant appearance. The public buildings are numerous, and many of them splendid ; among which may be reckoned the cathedral, the Infirmary, and the College buildings; which last, though uKi and antiquated, are spacious, and the institution is esteemed one of the finest seminaries of education in Britain. The manufac- tures of Glasgow have arisen to great extent and perfection, par- ticularly those of cotton. The principal articles of manufacture calculated for the United States are, fancy musHns (a sort of sta- ple commodity,) printed calicoes, ginghams, shirtings, hosiery, threads, tapes, earthen and glass ware, iron ware, &C. Glasgow is also a market for disposing of the manufactures of the otlier parts of Scotland, particularly of Dundee, Perth, and Fifeshire, such as sail-cloth, cotton ba^^gin^, osnaburgs, cotton and linen checksj and ticks — of Duniermhne, table cloths, sheetings and tovvelings— of Stirling and Kilmarnock, carpeting, gloves, &c. The returns from America consist principally of cotton, of which Glasgow manufactures above 10,000 bales annually. Having served an ample apprenticeship to business in one of the principal manufacturing houses in Glasgow, I resolved, in the beginning of the year 1806, to commence business on my own account. I had long studied the trade to the United States of America, and was well aware of its importance to both countries; but the constant jealousies which had existed between them, dur- ing Mr. Pitt's administration, induced me to decline embarking in it. Towards the close of the year 1805, a change of counsels took place in Britain, and at the head of the new ministry was that great and enlightened statesman, Charles James Fox. From the known sentiments of Mr. Fox, for justice and moderation, I calculated that every thing would be amicably arranged between the two governments, for I never had any doubt as to the just and pacific policy of the United States. I trusted in a lasting friendship between the two countries, and in a great and increas- ing commerce; and I accordingly embarked in it with all the ardour of commercial enterprize; selecting for my branch th'' INTRODUCTION. [1 I i;? trade to Savamiab, in Georgia, in which it appeared there was a good opi'iiinp, and I was particularly well acquainted with the Loiinuodity to be returncil, cotton. llavinj; completed my purchases, and established my connec- tions, I resolved to go to America in person, to establisli the business there, and made preparations for the voyage accordingly; and the following remarks, grounded upon an essay of the late ielebi'aled Dr. I''ranklin, and the result of a good deal of experi- ence, may be useful to otliers. I have summed them up under tiie title of Advice to those about to undertake a Sea Voyage. ' \y\\ox\ you intend to take a long voyage, endeavour to have your whole business transacted, so as you may have a few days to spend with your friends, and to attend to the little necessaries that may be recpiisitc on the voyage, previous to your departure. It IS not always in a person's power to choose a captain, al- though a good deal of the comfort of the passage depends upon this choice. The chief requisites are, that he be a good seaman ; jittcntive, careful, and active in the management of his vessel : and of these circumstances, and indeed all others relative to the pas- sage, you must satisfy yourself before setting out, for tliere is no use in* making complaints at -sea. It is still more difficult to iiuike choice of sociable tellow-passengcnj. A ship is like a stage- coach, it must accommodate all comers ; and one surly fellow may jiiolest a whole ship's company. But a person, by having resour- tes of hi«j own, may make himself, in a great measure, indepen- dent of other people, and it will be well, before going on board, to take measures to accomplish that desirable object. For this pur- j.ose, a small library of books will be found very entertaining, ;,nd if you have any turn for the study of mathematics and draw- ing, you will have a good opportunity to practise on board; and II case of mathematical instruments, and a box of paints, will be iiocesstuy. The gjeatcr part of the cnrrying trade between Riitain and America is perlormed in American vessels, and a cabin passage ill one of these vessels is generally very agreeable. The expeiue, iucludlng every thing, is from 30 to 40 guineas. There are vari- ous modes of laying in provisions. One is fiir the captain to pro- vide every thing; another is to provide every thing, except li- quors ; and a third is for the passengers to lurnish every thing, at their joint ex pence. If the cu}>tain be a judicious man, there: will generally be a good supply, in either case. But it may noi bj iuniss, tor thobC who can alford it, to have a private assojt- iiienL of good tea and cordials; s>iu)uld they not have occassion to use li.em themselves, they may have an i {^.01 lunity (J' serving some poor steerage passenger. here was a :d witli the 1^' conneo- tablisl) the ccordingly; 3t' the late of ex peri - up under ur to have a few days necessaries eparture. captain, al- ends upon od seaman ; i^esscl: and to the pas- lu?re is no difficult to ike a stage- fellow maj ing resour- S indepen- board, to this pur- tertaining, and draw- oard; and ts, will be itain and m passage expontc, are vari- m to pio- except li- vy ihii!(^. lan, there t tnay noi te assMii- lassion t<» i scrvin;i INTRODUCTION. XI •f I There Is generally a metlicine chest on board, but it iu pome- limes not in very good order; and It will be advisable to have a few simple medicines of your own, such as rhubarb, cream of tar- tar, and Peruvian bark ; and a few dozens of soda water will be found a very agreeable beverage. When a family undertake a sea voyage, ihcv have gcnorally their own servant ; and if they arc numerous, they will find it most comfortable and most economical to enpige a state-room, and lay in their own stores. For the information of such, I shall Jiere subjoin a list of the most essential articles. They are entitled to the ship's j^rovisions: biscuit, salt beef, pork, pease, &c. — In addition, they will require meal, barley, flc^ur, po- tatoes, |>igs, ducks, fowls, porter, wine, and spirits. Beef, unit- ton, and loaf bread will keep fre!?h eight or ten days at sea, and it should be always laid in, as it proves not only a considerable •saving to the fresh stock, but is gelicrally more grateful to tho -stomach at that period than any other food. The expence of a steerage pnssage is about twelve guineas, and the passengers are entitled to the whole ship's provisions bei'ore enumerateti; but to make themselves comfortable, it will be pro- per to add a little stock of tea, sugar, liquors, barley, and oat meal. It is generally necessary, both in the cabin and steerage, for the passengers to furnish their own bedding. I may take oc- casion here to remark, that this practice is an improper one. A^essels which are calculated to carry passengers, should be pro- vided with bedding, particularly in the cabin births. They are furnished at no great expence, and one set would serve many passages, so that the expence, during one passage, would be trifling: whereas, by the present practice, each passenger is sub- jected to a considerable expence, besides the trouble of purchas- ing his bedding, and of selling it again at the close of the passage. A few general remarks, to be attended to while at sea, shall conclude this article. A short time after setting sail, the passenger*; generally get sea sick. This complaint, though lightly esteemed, Siecause not dan- gerous, is often very severe while it lasts, and, if treated impro- perly, it may cause a relaxation of the stomach, that will be very troublesome. While the sickness continues, people have an aversion of all kinds of food and drink. Many abstain from both, three or four days. This is a bad plan. I'he stomach should never be allowed to get entirely empty. A little chicken broth or water gruel should be freely used ; and people should go upon deck as ^pon as possible. Breathing the foul air of the cabin or steerage promotes the disease ; whereas exercise and free air on deck relieve it. A little soda water will at this time be very ex- hilarating; and as soon as the stomach is so far cleansed as to kee* free from retching, a little Peruvian bark will be very bencf5 as a restorative. Care should be taken to guard against c aess, a very troublesoaie complaint at sea. -V.t,tontion to '' / / V ,^ XII INTRODUCTION, ii exercise will often prevent it ; but where that fails, a little laxn- live medicine, such ns rhubarb, cream of tartar, or castor oil, should be resorted to. When the weather is good, people should rise early* The air of the cabin is not only nifccted by the respiration ol the passen- gers, but it is often cuntaminated bv the bilge water ; while the sea air on deck is always pure and healthy. The breakfast hour at sea is 8 o'clock, dinner, I, and supper 6 or 7. It is a general rule amongst the passengers, to have themselves washed and dress- ed before sitting down to breakfast. Betwixt breakfast and dinner, the time may be profitably employed in walking, reading, draw- ing, &c. ; and (-uch as have a taste for navigation will have a good opportunity for practical improvement, as tliey can have access to the log-book; and the captain and mates are generally very oblig- ing, in loading their navigation books and instrument^ to those who wish them. Temperance at table is necessary ever}^ where, and especially at .»?ca, where the exercise is necessarily limited. "Where wine is nsed, three or four glasses will generally be found more beneficial than a larger quantity ; and people ought, on no account, to in- dulge themselves at the table a whole afternoon, though it is fre- quently done. It ii much better to take exercise in the open air on deck. In the evening, the company frequently amuse themselves at cards, baokgammoa, &c. ; these, v.hen resorted to for amusement only, are rational and innocent encugh; but when the play is for money, they ought to be avoided. I may add, that, generally speaking, people's happiness is very much in their own power. A suavity of manners, and an obliginc- ly civil deportment, is calculated to secure the esteem of mankind ; and when things are not exactly as we would wish them to be, it ;viU add to our own comfort to take them as we find them. >.! i 4l» ]\ '1 . little laxn- castor oil, y. The air the passen- ; while the [ikfast hour s a general 1 and dress- tnd dinner, ling, draw- liavc a good ve access to very oblig- itsi to those specially at ere wine is I beneficial mt, to in- ;h it is fre- pen air on tnselves at miisement play is for ;ss is very obliging* mankind; to be, i% n. TABLE OF CONTENTS, JPrEFACE. ImporUncc of hooks of travels ; Importance of the United Suiev ; Motives and design of publication ; Voyage to the West Indies, and studios connected with it; Continued in a voyage to America ; Mode of procuring infomnation; Change of circumstances; Tour to tlic western country; Explanation of the plan; General remarks. INTRODUCTION, page 9. Description of Glasgow; Change of councils in T^ritain ; Probaliility of a lasting peace with America ; Prepare to embark for that country; Advice to those about to undertake a sea voyage ; Cabin passage; Single jMssengers, families ; Steerage passage ; General remarks to be attended to at sea. CHAPTER I. p. 25. Depart from Glasgow; Paisley: Extensive view ; TXivcr Clyde ; Greenock ; Configuration of tlie country ; Frequent rains on the west coast ; Anecdote; Passengers; Sail from Greenock; Firth of Clyde; Arran ; Ailsa Craig; Mull of CantjTc; Atlantic ocean ; A fair wind; A gale; Headwinds; Bermudas; Gulf stream ; American coast; Savannah river. CHAPTER II. p. 51. General remarks ; Occupations at sea ; ^Vinds in the At- lantic; Trade winds; Variable winds; Gulf stream; Banks of Newfoundland; Is- lands of ice ; Courses across the Atlantic at diflerent seasons. CHAPTER III. p. 35. Reflections in Savannah ; Description of the city; Trade, Country in its vicinity ; Articles of commerce ; Exports and imports ; Savannah river. CHAPTER IV. p. 38. Journey up the country; Roads; Creeks; An inn; Re- mains of a burnt negro ; Sultry weather ; Taverns ; Domestic manufactures ; Pin^ barrens ; Remarks on health ; Construction of cities ; Draining ; EflTects of oxygen , A mctliodist church; Reflections on cnmp meetings; Baptists; Wayncsborou. fi~. Journey to the New England stattr ; East river; HeU* gntc ; I.oiip Islaivl sound, Elegant views; A eourtsliip ; Rnco ; Narrap;an'iOt buy ; Newport ; Fine views ; Beautiful female ; Another courtship ; Providence ; Gcitgra- jibiiMl arrangeint'Tit. CHAPTER X. p. B9. Ilhode Island ; Situation: Extent; Area; Face of the countrj- ; Minerals ; Soil ; Climate ; Settlement and progress ; Cinl divisions and po- pulation ; Improvements ; T'owns ; Roads ; Bridges ; Agriculture and produce ; Manufactures ; Commerce ; State of society ; Government rilAl'TER XI. p. 71. A disappointment; EtTects of it ; Rct.iliation ; Leave IVovidence; Rule i'or swc.irin;; ; Patuckct river; Cotton manufactures: Reflcctinns find calculations on the cotton trade; Maosachussets ; Dc«Uiam; bcaatiful prospects; Boston neck ; Boston- CHAPTER XIJ. p. 77. De-criptinn of Boston ; Public buildings; Markets; Commerce ; Manuf.iclures ; Bunks ; Societies ; Character of the itdiabitants ; State- liousc ; Fine view ; Bridges ; .l.uint to Salom ; Clnrlcstoii ; Bunker's Hill ; Mystie tiver ; Swamp and floating bridge ; Lynn ; Expensive turnpike ; Salem j \VTiarve8 and diipping ; Reflections ; Return to Boston. CHAPTER XIIL p. 82. New Hampshire; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of the countrj' ; Mountains ; Lakes; Rivers; Minerals; Soil; Climate; Settlement and progress ; civil divisions and poptdation ; Improvements ; Towns ; Roads ; Bridges ; Agriculture and produce ; Manufactures ; Commerce ; State of society ; Government. CHAPTER XIV. p. 85. Vermont; Sitnation ; Extent; Area; Face of the coun« try; Mountaitis; Rivers; Minerals; Soil; Climate; Settlement and progress ; Civil divisions and population ; Improvements ; Towns ; Agriculture and produce ; IManu- factures; Commerce; State of society ; Government. CHAPTER XV. p. 57. Leave Boston; Mail stage; Company; Cambridge; General remarks ; Weston ; Beautiful country girl ; Worcester ; Brookfield ; West- ern ; A contrast ; Cheerful company ; Handsome girls ; Jealousy ; Springfield ; Con- necticut river ; Sufiield. CHAPTER XVL p. 92. MassachusscU ; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of the country ; Wattrs ; Minerals ; Soil and agriculture : Climate : Settlement and progress ; Civil divisions and population : Improvements: Towns: Roads: Bridges: Manufac- tures: Commerce: Stntc of society : Religion: Literature: Education: Government: District of Maine : Settlement : Population : Improvements : Towns : Soil : Com- mcrce : State of tociety : Climate. CHAPTER XVII. p. 9f5. Windsor: Hartford: Additional company: Odd no- tions: Handsome girls : Fruit: Wallingford : Church built by the produce of onions : Blooming girls : Elegant country : Fine views ; New Haven : Millford : Housato- nic river : Stamford. CHAPTER XVIIL p. 98. Connecticut : Situation: Extent: Area: Face of the country: Hills: Rivers: Minerals: Soil- Climate: Settlement and progress: Civil divisions and population : Improvements: Towns: Roads: Agriculture and produce: Manufactures : Commerce : State of society : Education : Government. CHAPTER XIX. p. 102. Yankee dialect : Horseneck : Anecdote: Rye: York Island : New York : Thomas Paine : An essay. CHAPTER XX. p, 104, New York: Sitiwtion : Extent: Area: Face of the 111 III tJ: ar Oil ufl CONTEN'l'S* W; Markets; iVIlow fever ; t river; HclN ■rrtj;an«.pt bay ; ice ; Gfogra- Face of the ition* and po- nd produce ; ation ; Leava : Roflccii.(ns ul prospcrts ; fs; Market*: itants; State- Hill; Mystie ^Vhar\'es and Tea ; Face of 3ttlement and Is ; Bridges ; Government, of the coun- igrcss ; Civil uce; Manu- I Cambridge; ield ; West- ;ficld; Con- Face of the lid progress ; Manufac- lovemmeBt : >il : Coni> Oddno- |of onions : Housato- ceof the ss : Civil produce: [re: York le of tlie Si»l: C'liinato: Settle- *)untr) : JHounUins : Lakes : llivers : Minerals : Springs : uient and progress; Civil divi:siun« and [wpulation : Iini)rovenjfiits : ('itits, towr.s a«id villages: Roads: Bridges: Canals: Agriculture and pro'.d : Coffee-house: Library: Sl)ii)-yards : Agreeable company t Description uf Baltimore : Public buildings : Ma- nufactures : Cunimurce : Education : Banks : Police. CHAPTEU XXX. p. 140. Maryland: Situation: Extent: Area: Face of the liouutry : Mountains : Ches:ipeak bay t Rivers : Minerals : Soil t Climate : Settlement uud progress : Civil divisions and population: Improvements; Cities and towns: A- griculturc and produce : Manufactures: Commerce: Education: GovernmenL CHAPTER XXXI. p. 143. Leave Baltimore: Patapsco creek} Bladensburg; ■\Vasliiiigton ; Capitol; Capitol hill; Superb view. I HAPTKU XXXn. p. 145» Wasltingtoa ; TrcBsury; Post-office; Capitol; Uurracks; Rtmaiks on the army; Navy-yard j Georgetown; Potomac river; Road I'aid out by congress. CHAPTER XXXIII. p. 148. Wait on Mr. Jefferson ; ConverviUon ; NoUce of American cgnr.merci'l cities; Climate and Se*ion ; Epidemic >icktuss;- Yeili.wxivtr ; k \-i n \¥ t xti CONTENTS. r«iii«s*t csuf ; Roods ; Internal improvvmenu ; Manuraoturci ; S«ntiinciiu r«;)Btivf> to Mr. Fox. CIIArTEU XXXIV. p. 152. l)i*itrtct of Columbia ; Extent; SituaUon; Face of llie country ; Soil; Climate; Divisionft; Improvementit ; Description of Witshing- lon city : I'luii ; Uiiiliiinfni ; Public buildingH ; Markets; .'Manufactures; State of t>(>- viety ; Police ; General rcniarks on British and Froneh influence ; Probability of uii uiiiicnhlo .idjdstmint of the difTorenccs with Ilritain; Alexandria. CII.M'TEU XX\V. p. 1,". Leave Alexandria; ()ccti«pilian creek; Agreeable company; Art public; Sonj^s and stories; Dumfries; Prcderickhburg ; llap|)ahan> nock river; Mottiipoiiy river ; Painunky rirer; York river; York; Hanover court- bouse; llicliinond ; JiiiiK's river; Navigation; Canal; .'\])painatto;t river) Petersburg; A;<."ei'"ib!e cirnpany ; Noltawjy river; Mehurrin river. CIIAPTKl'. XXXVl. |. J'M. Virginia; JefFersoH's N.itcs; Boundaries; Extent; Area; Face of the co. miry ; Mountains; Rivers; Passage of the Potomac through the Jlounlains ; Cirxades; ; Ciive^ ; Blowing cave; Natural bridge; Alinerals ; Soil; Climate; Settlement and progress; (!ivil divisions and popuLuion; Towns; Roads; Navigation; Architecture; Ai;riculture and produce; Mauafactures ; (commerce; State of society ; Colleges ; Education ; Religion ; Government ; Extracts from Mr Jt'lferson's Notes; On governmcut ; 0« the importation of foreigners; On nianufac tures agriculture, and connnerce. CHAPTER XXXVII. p. 183. Roanoke river; Warrcnton; Tar river ; Nusc river ; R.ileigh ; Dismal country ; Black river ; Cape Fear ; Fayetteville ; I.umber- ton ; An accident } Sm im the horses and stage. CHAPTER XXXVIII. p. 1^7. Noith Carolina; Situation; Extent; Area; I'ace of the country ; Mo'citains; Rivers; Minerals; Soil; Climate; Settlement and progress; Civil divisions and populations; Improvements; Towns; Roads; Agricul- ture and produce : Manufactures and commerce; State of society ; Government. CHAPTER XXXIX. p. 190. Flat country; Bad roads; Methodist church; Swimming creek; Little Pedee river; Altercation with the driver; Re«d]r creek; Slaple swamp ; Great I'edee river ; A breakfast ; Lynche's creek ; Blackmingo creek ^ AVilton; An agreeable Irishman ; Fever and ague ; A dinner; Black river; An old ft lend; Georgetown; Culture of rice ; A causeway; Santcc river; View rf the At- lantic ocean ; Arrive at Charleston. CHAPTER XL. p. 1%'. A iMditician; A fever; Sudden change of weather; "Description of (Charleston. CHAPTER XLI. p. 199. South Carolina; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of tiie country; Iliils; Rivers; Minerals; Soil; Climate; .Settlement and progress; Civil divisions and population ; Improvements ; Towns ; Agriculture and produce ; Manufactures ; Commerce ; State of society ; Education ; Government. CHAPTER XLII. p. 204. Passage to Savannah by sea; I'ybee light-hOuse ; fiavannah; Death and character of a friend; Hard labour; Flattering pros]5ects; A new connection; Prepare to embark for Europe. CHAPTER XLIILp. 206. Georgia; Situation; Extent; Ares; Face of the country; Mountains; Rivers; Soil and Climate; Settlement and progress; Civil divisions and population ; Towns ; Agriculture and produce ; Education ; Reflections un that subject ; Religion; GovernmcnC ^ CHAPTER XLI V p. 210. Embark for Europe; Fellow passengers ; Detained in the river ; A fine breeze ; Fast sailing ; A sloop of war ; A frigate ; Sea diversions ; Cape Clear ; An Irish pilot boat ; Cove of Cork ; Tuscar ; Skerrics-light ; Ltrerpo9$ CONTENTS. XVll timctiu rchitivf* 1 Situation; Face on of Washing' es; State oTiio- Probobility ot cek; Agreeabltt 9 '8 i lUpiiahan- fl Hanover court- i'r> Petersburg; laritis; Extent; )tomac through Minerals; Soil; rowas ; Roads ; s ; Commerce j racts from Mr ; On nianufac ar river ; Nuse fille ; Lumber- Eitent; Area; Settlement and oads; Agricul- 1 kcrnment. '^ liodist church; Ke«djr creek ; cmingo creek ; river; An old iewrftheAt- ! of weatlier; "^ Lrea ; Face of % md progress; I ind produce; 1 light-hfluse ; 1 prosjiects; A 1 Face of the 1 ogress; Civil 1 ; Reflections m s; Detained "^ a dirersions ; M i Liverpo** S pilot boat; Haadwinda; A gal*} Uojlt Uk*; A cftvalMd*; An ignorant guide j Arrive in L/verpool. CHAPTER XLV. p. S14. Change of rouncib in Britain ; Probable eObct on the American relations ; New political doctrines ; Conuaercial arrangement ; Information as to the late election ; Political discussions ; Chairing the members ; Political motivei; An intelligent Liverpool freeman. CHAPTER XLVI. p. 917. Set out for Glasgow ; Ormskirk ; Preston ; Lancas- tor; Conversation witli a London mtrchant; Kemlal; Shap fells; Geese grazing; Fenrith; Thriving farms; Carlisle; Manufactures; Longton ; Scotland; Extensive view ; Gretna green ; Laws of marriage in Scotland ; Rough road ; Lockcrby ; Motr«l ; Cold weather ; Sources of the Clyde ; Scottish dialect ; Hamilton ; Glasgow. CHAPTER XLVIL p. Sai. Journey to England; Preston; Manchester; Li- verpool ; Warrington ; Prescott ; Gilead hall ; Commercial arrangemenu ; Manclius- ter ; Antiquity ; Extent ; Manufactures ; Improved steam engine ; Cotton mills ; Ma- nufactures for America; Buy; Rochdale; Halifax; Leeds; Northallerton; Durhun : River Wear ; Extensive views ; Reflections ; Newcastle coal tradv ; ^f or- peth; Alnwick; Magnificent Castle ; German ocean; Berwick; Dunbar; Klegimi view; Edinburgh; Singular situation ; Arthur's seat ; Salisbury Craigs ; Castle ;Cm1« ton bill; Lofty houses $ New town; Elegant buildings ; Bridges; Leith ; Adjacent country ; Courts of Law ; Nobility and gentry of Scotland ; Education ; State of -M' ciety ; Rapid travelling ; Arrive at Glasgow. CHAPTER XLVIILp. 226. Plans of the new ministry; Expedition to Den- mark ; Orders in council ; Consequences ; Journey to the east country ; Cumbernauld ; ' Forth and Clyde canal ; Stirling ; Dumblane ; River Ern ; CrielT; Methven Parish ;' Face of the country ; River Almond ; Soil ; Heritors ; Population ; Occupations ; Farms; Miniiter; Scceders; Schoolmaster; System of ed ucation ; Church; Baptism ^ Seceder church ; Calvinism ; Promiscuous dancing ; Scottish Music and dancing ^ Perth ; Manufactures ; Fisheries ; Education ; Return to Glasgow. CHAPTER XLIX. p. 231. Another journey to the east country ; Edinburgh ; Firth of Forth ; Kingliorn ; Kirkaldy ; Cupar ; A garrulous plasterer ; Fine vie>« ; F'irth of Tay ; Dundee ; Aughtermoucbty ; Falkland Palace : Lomond hills : Mine- rals : Edinburgh : Glasgow. CHAPTER L. p. 236. Effects of the orders m council: Jaunt to Edinburgh-. Celebration of Mr. Fox's birth-day : Toasts : Lord Melville : Death of Sir John Moore . Cold weather : Return to Glasgow. CHAPTER LI. p. 238. Ji.urney to Ireland . Kilmarnock ; Ayr : Dismal night . Cirvan: Lodi Ryan : Port Patrick : Violent weather : Head winds: A gale: Re- turn to port: A fair wind: Ireland: Iih family : Whist parties ; Anecdotes : Irish linen trade : Brazil trade : ' Fritiid«. iVoni Belfast : Ballynahinch : Medicinal springs : Hospitality of an old Jri'»hw«nian : Counsellor Trotter, late Mr. Fox's private secretary. CHAPTER LI I. p. 248. Prepare to leave Ireland : Dow npalrick : Strangford : Amazing rapid tide : Portafcrry : Donaghadee : Reflections on leaving Ireland : Port Patrick : Very distant view : Weat coast of Scotland : Burns' birth-place : Ayr ; Glasgow. ' , CHAPTER LIII. p. 2J0. Orders in council withdrawn : Conduct of the ship- ping ioterwt ; Paper blockade ; Views in political economy: Piepare to esnbark fc? Li!! H XVill CONTENTS. Amvi'irit: r.ilinhiirgh . Dundep: Carliale: Mam-hestttr : I.ccdii: ShaOiald : Ntitttnf liAii) . I.undoii : Naiixlinll gnrtlen^ t Sin)(iil;ir iM'curr«ncr>. t II An KH M V. |>. ; '• I. I.i'ftvu Lniuinn : Oxfontt Dirmitif^liani > Mincrnliifcy i Alirt^vHlMirv I v'h> .K-ri I.iveqNmlt Iti-HociitinN nn tlitiiitiialion of Knglami mid America, niAl' IK II 1,\'. |>. 'J.'rt. KnK''C'' • P'^^'l?^' Tor Amorita liy the Pnoific : fH^Mit- tft'THt A ililcniiniii Irish litMttim'ii : Piuifit- sails t (ape Clean 1 lt>ad windn : Sliip runa mil iif llic liiiv/i' ; llaiik> of Ni-wCoiiiuilaiul > Oulf Hireani : Lunar tibM-rvatioiiN : Sandf IIiKik ; |i)riiini.iii'ilot i (liinrantiiip gruiiiut: Ariivo in Nr«f Y«rk. ( IIM'IKH I. VI. )'. U60. Jimrnry tu Tliilaik-lphia i ('(immcrrial iliiicuaaiunK i Ni-[;i>ti.ilion witli Hrituin hruke olFi ranMigu tu Suvannah : i'.irccts of tliv »tu|ipagc of the foii'i);ii iiHilf. C.IIAl'lKIt I, \ II. p. '.'♦>'?. Jmirnry up the rminlry; LnitisvilkM Upper rouniryt Opri'cl.i liver : .Spuria j Doiiu-Jttio maniifactiirw t Grt-ensbury i Oconee river : Appit> lii"h> nver; N»vv piirt-hasf; Mount Vernon; Mactiwn; GnenKtmrg; An alarm; lii- ip it) uhellitr the Minks r.in organise a plot to dentroy the while people in the aouthern MuU".; WaOiiiigton ; Itnys nii'ls ; A m.inufvMtory ; folunihia C'ourl-liou»e ; Au^^ustB ; An "ill fi lend ; UiehmoiiH Nprinfts; ^VayneAl)orollgh ; Great revoluiiun in cominercc ; Cotldii muiniCiiioric- ; l'rul>ahle conwquences of the ctimmercial rivoltitien. illAl'TKK I.VHI. p. 'Jiifl. TaMUige to Charleston ; Afirver: Sullivan't T jwtrty ; A bloody nose; Ancccen- irii pronihir; A shtping lit; Loss of two liaf , Keturn by tbc steam-lxiat ; Staleii Island; (^urariiine ground ; Agreeal)le parties ; Importanceof temperance in religious Hnd politii-al discussions, and of avoiding piirsoiiul abuse. I.I1> r TEU LI X. p. 272. Residence in New York ; Ncgociations ; Political views ; Triigrtss of .\iiic'rican manufactures; All hope of a beneficial trade with Britain at an end. en .\PTI2K LX. p. 270. Reflection* on agriculture ; Plan of publishing travels ; Projected tour to llw; western country: Set out for Iliiladelphin : General infonnation . Gic.il iiHrmsc i.f the city : So'it ty of artibts-. Institution for engraving bank-notes ; .Set «)ul foi Wiishiii^ton; 1 )eluware river : Ncwcasile: Fteiichtown : Ualtimore: Washington. CIIAl''rr.U lAI. p. 'J8f;. interview with the secretary of the treasury : Prelinii- iiury iu(|uiries li.fore silting out on ri lour to the wcstwrn country : Wait on Mr. Madi- son • Coinoi-sntion on vuiioiis- topic: Washington city : r>altun<>i-e : Havre-dc-Grace SusqiielKinnah river : Philadelphia: New York. ( JI AP J Kll L\ 1 1, p. '2i)l. Long Isliiud ; Route of TrnvclH r Inquires to be made during llii journey: Leave New York: Steam-boat; Fortitiotioiis : Staten Island Kills : Newail; bay : Elizahctlilown point : Amhoy • Fisheries • Uuiiton river • lVun>- wick : Princeton : Truiton ; Oveilurn of the stage : Bordent«iwn ; Fine view : Dt»l- aware rivei ; Uristol : Hurlinnton : I'(>int-no-puiut : I'hiL'idelphia. CHAPTER LXIII. p. L'!>J. Pitfsburg sta-re: Fine horses : Buck tavern : Riifi valley: Downiiigstown ; Gap hill : Brandywine creek : Rich country: Lancaster; tliMbetlitowH : Conewago hills : Middleton ; Banks of the Susquebaanoh : llarri'- Uurgli : ^ ross tlie Susquebannah : Carlisle : View of tltc mountains : Shippensburg ; I'hambursburg. CHAPTER LSI V. p. 299. General iidbrmation : Chambersburg ; Limestone valley : Fellow travellers : Extensive view : Curious petrifaction : Conecochcague truck : Atcend tha Nnittt mountatus : Mod'i of passing waggons: Aa old hag: A I 'I ill l>< (\ *'1 i'1 COKTK.NTS. six n«Ul: N.Xtlnjf I! MinomlitKy t ttdand America, Vide: Th^mii- 'Indn: SliipruiiR rvdtiiiiiN: Sandy f«» Vwk. iiil (liiicuwonK i ihv ttuiipitgc of Upper rounfry j 'I- river: Appit. An alann ; in. in tlic iiouthem lune; Augusta; 1 in comiDvrcc ; tion. Ilivan't Tslaiid ; ia \cw York ; i Unc viewi M«; Anrcren- n-boat; Suien nee in religious 'oliticnl views ; with Britain at ishing travels ; 1 infunnation ; ink -notes; Set Washington. ry : I'relinii. on Mr. Miuii- re-dc-Graco >^s to l»c nmde 'fntvH IslaiiJ ivcr • IVun,- \io\v: Det- tavern : Ri< h Lancaster ; lah : Harri«- lippenstiurg : Limestone •neccflicagui- old liag : A i Oeinun f itnily J ElfUMfl) variegatetl vivw : MConncNtown ; TTiinling ; Scruli liill ; Sidling hill; Sublime vi«'w ; Jiyiction iT nmilo ; lUjf** hill ; Juniata livrr ; roinuntic )i«tik<; riiain liridgv ; Singular iur*»*ity; Dl KNiy run; Hot waivr wjr ; i'.e'ldjnl ; Ucdfurd npring^ CIIAl'TtU LXV, p. "JO*. A PfHoburg company; Valiial.li* mills; Allfgany inminlAinii ; Tavern on iii> top; SuUliU'f >iiws ; lU-tiiitions ; l\m|ii'riiti iliiiuU} Soincni-I ; Itt-piiKtve landloni , Oliliging postiiia<)(t-* j Ociunil int'orinatiiMi ^ Auei- ilote* i Laurel hill ; Chesiniit ridge. CII.AI'TKK L\ VI. p, .109. Weiti-rn country ; 8;ilt spring ; Coitl miiu- ; Cireon*- burg; 'i'lirtlf rrevk ; A vvundcri'ul tree; llriulilork's dofrat ; A iifautit'u! foin.ili' ; rtom-ral rcuiarks on the muunUius ; Ui-ptik'Sj liicreu>v d ^lietpuiui wool; Ou iIim u«c of spirituous litjuors; i'rejuJice ; Eipiure of truveltiiig ; Iwportance of a turn* pikv roaiL CnAriKU LXVII. p. 314. riiuliiirg ; Buildin;^'*; Popiiluti.m ; Tublii buiUU ing<; ManufacturiXt; I'rofessions ; I'rici' of Inliour ; \'iiliu> ot' uianuruclurt'K ; V.\. ports; .Maniir.ictures tliat might bo establi'tlieil; Kx|ieMi'e of living, i oinpan-d ^^itU llie price of lalxinr ; S'ato of wxivty ; IViiiuli* educitioii ; ISfi)iioiig.)lu>U and Atli';;;ii)y rivers: Industry of the inlialiitant'^ ; Grant's hill . (iiiiss-woikv ; l'utti>rii.'s ; Stiuiii ljo.it . An ccllcsii«^ticaI trial ; IleflM'tiuni on ri-ligious froedoin, CIIAl'TEIl LXVIII. p. T-'O. Journey to Hnrni(my ; Cros* ilic AUegfiny rivor ; Hough rood ; Plains; Remarks on tl;e toiintry ; llunnony; Origin and progrt-.s of the society; Innkeeper; Doctor; ^^r. llapp ; Sliee[) ami slu'pliurds ; i\Iaiiiir:ic!iiri'-i ; Tradesmen; Dog lilowing the bellows; ' Cianarieii; Oitlmnl j Drew house ; Slore- bouiies ; Loliyrinth ; Hotaiiic garden ; Div no service ; Hand of music ; Watchmen : %ineyards; Mills and machinery ; Fertile valley; A vill.igc ; llrick-works ; IJurlil ground; Anecdote; Uce-hives ; Diiinesiii: economy; Udiffion ; Kducaiioii ; Mori- lity; Stock and future prospects of the society j Farewell address; Ztlioiiople ; He- turn to Pittslnirg ; General remarks. CHArTini LXIX. p. So'l. Prepare to de:icen. I the Ohio; DidVrcnt craft np,.ii it! An original genius; .V skill' an I pro\ isions ; Ohio river; 'I'liitk fog; A ripple; Loss of a ham; Eflccts of u flood; A company of Indians; Denver; An Indian boatman; Love of wliiskcy ; Georgetown; A dinner; Sleuheiiville ; Stttlbenville district. CH APfEIl LXX. p. 339. Handsome plunUtion and peach orchard; General in- formation; Charleston; A spiritual exphrnation ; Wheeling; Uetlection:i on slavery • Tarrying slaves to market ; A drunken Indian; General information ; Long reach; J'inc views ; A peach orchard ; A wonderful fall discovered by Mr. Ashe ; Marietta. CHAPTER LXXI. p. 3'14. Marietta; Commerce; Steam-mill building ; Pio- bable inortnsc of iiiauufactures ; Fine views; Indian mounds; Nu\i'fation of the Ohio and Muskingum ; Ohio company's purchase j Marietta district. CHAPTER LXXil. p. 340. Keel boats ; Rough company; lll.tninrha'iseti'-. i«tand ; Burr's conspii-acy ; Reflections thereon ; Bellepre ; A contrast ; Efllcts i,/ industry; A huraoursome character; A floatir»g-niill ; Irish emigrants; An anecdote; A musician ; Lctart's falls ; Head winds; Kanhaway river; Point pleasant; Gal- Jiopolis, CHAPTER LXX III. p. 3oG. Whimsical account of the country; Leave Gal- liopolis; Cotton manufactures; Account of the early settler-.; A mnuerous family ; A politician; Big Sandy creek ; Hospitable new married couple; A thriving fiiuilv French grant J tkioto river; rortsmuuth ; Alexandria; 'iti.^i of exiiaerdiuary uliv f^ XX CONTENTS. and beauty; Manchester; Limeitoae; Augusta; General information; A hotplta* ble Scotsman ; Athol brosc ; Shantrews ; Poetry ; Music ; Cincinnati. CHAPTER LXXIV. p. 361. Cincinnati; Manufactures and mechanics; Ph>- visions ; Manners and momls ; 1. Times' purchase; Cincinnati district; Newport; Elegant farm and vineyard ; Captain Baen ; General information. CHAPTER LXXV. p. 165. Take capUin Baen passenger; Descend th« river; Wretched tavern ; Captain Brown; A mammoth bone; Extraordinary orchard; Great Miamj; Big-bone-lick creek ; Accountof the mammoth; Wander in the woods; Captain Hawes* ; A dilemma ; Unwelcome great-conts ; Swiss vineyards ; Kentucky river ; Madison ; Bethlehem ; Louisville ; General remarks. CHAPTER LXXVI. 377. Louisville; Jeffersonville ; Falls of the Ohio; Re- marks on the utility of a canal ; Commerce on the Ohio ; Country round the falls. CHAPTER LXXVII. p. 381. Indiana territory; Illinois territory; North-west territory ; Louisiana territory ; Orleans territory (now the state of Louisiana) ; New Orleans ; Mississippi territory ; Mississippi river ; Genaral remarics. CHAPTER LXXyilL p. 3D6. Account of the Indian war; Leave Louisville; Bear-grass creek ; Middleton ; Shelby ville ; Clear creek ; Beautiful country ; Benson creek; Romantic valley; Frankfort; State-house; Penitentiary; Hemp manufac- tures; Kentucky river; State of Society; Country round Frankfort; Versailles: Leautiful country : Lexington. CHAPTER LXXIX. p. 401. Lexington: Market: Rope-walks; Cotton bag- ging factory : Theatre : Original settlement : Population : Public buildings : Semi- nary : Library : Steam-mill t Manufactures : Prices : State of society : Police : Country round : Remarks on the climate. CHAPTER LXXX. p. 405. Tennessee: Situation: Extent: Area: Face of the country : Rivers : Mountains : Minerals : Soil : Climate : Settlement and pro- gress ; Civil divisions and population : Towns : Agriculture : Manufactures : Ccm- inerce : State of society : Government. CHAPTER LXXXL p. 408. Leave Lexington : Paris: Country round: Mil- Icrsburg : Blue Lick: Remarks on Mr. Ashe ; iVashingtOH ; Limestone. CHAPTER LXXXIL p. 411. Kentucky: Situation: Extent: Area: Face of the couutry : Rivers : Minerals : Soil r Climate : Settlement and progress : Civil n; A hoapltfl. lechanics; Fro« ictj Newport; Descend tha xlinary orchard; r in the woods; rds; Kentucky the Ohio ; Re- id the falls. 7; North-west luisiana); New ive Louisville; intry ; Benson emp manufac- i i Versailles : ; Cotton hag- [dings : Semi- iety : Police : Area : Face of ent and pro- ctures : CmH" round : Mil- e. rea: Face of ogress: Civil luuent: Stat* An t'cono- Vcst Union : Geueral in- anufactures nek creek • Country [uskingum ; Zanesvilla ; i^oinuierce : iver : Tim- Situation m CHAPTER LXXXVIT. p. 446. Leave Zanesville : Wakatomika creek: Sheep farming -. A methodist preacher : Fertile bottoms : Coshocton : A breakfast ; Now- Comer's town : Yankee town : Gnadenhutten : Schocnbrun : New Philadelphia : Travelling companions : Beautiful country : Dutch tavern : Sandy creek : Nim- shillen creek : Canton. CHAPTER LXXXVIIL p. 445. Canton; Canton district; Remarks on the weather : A squall : A German family : Squatters : Reflections : Cross the Tusca- rawa : Connecticut reserve : Dividing ridge between the northern and southern wa- ters- A Connecticut family : Cayahoga ri^er : Account of Hudson: Portage-path: Mud creek : Bad road : Travelling family : A salt hauler : Tinker's creek : Wretch- ed accsmmodatioas : Dull scenery : Lake Erie : Sublime view. CHAPTER LXXXIX. p. 453. General reflections ; Travelling in quest of new lands : Outlet of Cayahoga river : Sickness : A cure suggested ; Projected eanal : Descriptioi. of Cleveland: Lake shore: Bocky river t A gale: A storm. CHAPTER XC. p. 457. Connecticut reservation : Claim of Connecticut : Man- ners of the inhabitants : Their aversion to law : Warren : Lake Erie : Navigation of ♦he lakes : Principal ports : Number of vessels on both sides ; British armed vessels : Extent of inland navigation : General information ; Black river ; Vermilion river -. Huron river: Sandusky river and bay : Miami ef the lakes : Road to Detroit. CHAPTER XCL p. 462. Michigan territory: Bounderies ; Extent: Aren : Face of the country : Soil : Climate : Settlement and progress : Population : Go • vernment. CHAPTER XCIL p. 463. Leave Cleveland: Chagrin river: A good notion: An intended town : A Scottish store-keeper : Gmnd river : Lake shore : Beautiful prospect : Asbtabula river : A New- Connecticut justice court : Eloquent pleadings : A convivial party : Son^s and storief. : Merit of Scottish music : An old song : Fishes blown on b.iore ■. Rehc-tior;; on speculation ; Conneought river. CHAPTER XCIIL p. 470. State of Ohio: Boundaries: Extent: Area: Face of the country : Rivers : Soil : Climate : Minerals : Settlement and progress : Sta- tistical table: Reflections on population; Improvements: Towns: Roads^: State of society : constitution * jurisprudence : Military : Salutary laws : Shakers. CHAPTER X CIV. p. 480. Banks of Lake Erie: Elk creek: Walnut crock; Erie ; Remaiks on canal navigation. CHAPTER XCV. p. 482. Leave Eric; Effects of a tornado ; New settlers ; Travellers; Canadaway; Cataragus; Cataragus creek; Indian reserve; Travelhng family ; Rocks and precipices 5 Remarkable stratum ; Quicksands ; Dangerous pas- sage; Masses of limestone; Buffalo; Buffalo creek; Indian settlements; Indian speeches. CHAPTER XCVI. p. 489. Black rock; Upper Canada; British soldiers; Rich settlements ; Grand island ; Chippaway ; Chippaway creek ; Rapids ; Falls of Nia- gara ; Sublime view ; Particular examination of the Falls ; Table Rock ; Awful ca- vity under it ; Wonderful scenery ; A brilliant rainbow. CHAPTER XCVII. p. 493. Independence of the Americans ; Anecdotes; Bri- tish officers ; A dutch settler ; A Yankee ; Haughtiness and pride of the soldiery ; Queenstown ; Lewistown ; A back-woods-man ; Niagara river ; Lake Ontario ; 0«t. let of Niagara river ; Discharge of water ; General reflections. CHAPTER XCVIII. p. 498. British possessions in North America; New- foundland; Cape Breton; Nova Scotia; New Brunswick; Lower Canada; Quebec; XXll CONTENTS. I I i::; i Montreal ; Upper Canada ; York ; Newark ; Queenstown j Kiog»ton ; Afalden ; Sanks of the lakes ; Agriculture ; State of society j Prospect of war with the United States ; Sumraar}' view of population, trade, &c. CHAPTER XCIX. p. 503. Description of Lewistown ; Ascent of Table Land ; Falls once here ; Description of the river; Volney's remarks; Observations thereon, and on Mr. Sehultz's reviewers ; Elegant view ; Devil's-holc ; Whirlpool ; Grand Niagara ; View of tlic Falls ; Description of the river at the Falls ; Prol>able descent tict»cen the lakes ; Strata under the Falb ; Mills and madiinery ; Probability of a large settlement ; Account of a boat and canue being carried over the Falls; Fort Schlosscr ; Rcmurks on canal navigation ; Projected canal round the Falls. CHAPTER C. p. .TOO. Leave Fort Schlosscr ; Views on the river; Tonewanta creek ; New road ; Great western turnpike ; EUicott's creek ; Price of lauds ; Moving families ; General information ; A missionary preacher ; Tonewanta creek ; Batavia ; II«lland purchase ; Exten* ; Face ©f the country ; Soil ; I'lan of settling ; Sute of society; Roads; Taverns; Opinions on the grand canal; Price of lands ; Descrip- tion of Batavia ; People best adapted to the country ; General reflections. CHAPTER. CL \\ 515. Lt^ve Batavia; Rc9ections; Le Roy Account of a Scottish settlement at Calcflonia ; Gcncssee river; Falls; Avon; Ontario county; Fine views; Honcoye lake; Bloomfield ; Pretty villages; Canandaigua ; Betiutiful scenery ; Description of the village ; General remarks ; A new and beautiful edition of Yankee ladies ; Education ; View round Canandaigua ; F'uture destinies of the back woods ; Description of Ontario county. CHAPTER CILp.521. Leave Canandaigua ; A smoking scene ; Reflections on the use of tobacco ; Geneva; An agreeable friend ; A pleasant party ; General infor- mation ; Description of Geneva ; Seneca lake ; Soil ; Increase of sheep and woollen manufactures ; Register of the weather, and remarks. CHAPTER CIIL p. 527. Leave Geneva; Cross Seneca river ; Cayuga lake and village ; Descripti(^n cf Seneca river ; Moving families ; Aubura ; Skeneatelcss ; Onondago court-house anc hollow ; Description of the salt-works ; Manlius Square ; Canaserago hollow ; View of Oneida lake ; A false sign-post ; Hartford ; Patent bellows ; Flourishing country ; Utica. CHAPTER CIV. p. 532. Remarks on tlie grand canal; and on foreign com- merce ; Rapid progress of manufactures ; Glass ; Cotton j Woollen ; Iron, &c. Raw materials ; Description of Utica. CHAPTER CV. p. 537. General remarks; History of the settlement of Sac- ket's Harbour and countrj' round it ; Description of Sacket's Harbour ; trade ; Adja- cent country ; State of society ; Anecdote of a farmer and a bear ; Reflections ; Re- marks on inland navigation ; Projected canal ; Importance of canal navigation, CHAPTER C VI. p. 544. Leave Utica; Cross the Mohawk river; Herkimer; Little falls; An inventory; Riinaikable passage; Charming views; East Canada creek ; Nose ; General information. CHAPTER CVIL p. 549. Scenery on the ^lohawk; Extensive views ; Johns- town; Very extensive views; Bruadalbin; Histoi7 of tlie settlement; Progress; Primitive manners ; Milton; A large woollen factory ; Ballston springs; Analysis of the waters. CHAPTER CVIIL p. 554. Leave Ballston ; Waterford; Cohoes falls ; Sce- nery on the Hudson river ; Arrive at Albany ;• Description of the city; Markets ; Manufactures; Coauaerco; State of society ; and of the weather. m laJ yI Gj inlj pel Nj CONTENTS. xxnv on ; Maiden ; th the United f Table Land ; ations theresn, rJpool ; Grand ohable descent obobility of a tie Falls ; Fort lis. • J Tonewanta auds; Moving euk ; Batavia ; ■-: lin^ ; Sute of /' nds; Descrip- ' :* s. 4 Account of a tario county ; ua; Beautiful ':, luliful edition I stinies of the Reflections on '■} jeneral infor- p and woollen Cayuga lake Skcneatelcss ; 'V. ilius Square; ■■' ford ; Talent breign com- 1 J Iron, &c. " 1 lent of Sac- 1 rade; Adja- 1 :clions ; He- i nation. '. Herkimer ; 1 East Canada 1 vrs ; Johns- "1 Progress ; ■i i ; Analysis ■: falls ; Sce- ] Markets ; M CHAPTER CIX. p. 557. Passage by steam-boat; Hudson ; Ncwburg ; High- lands; Stony Point; Handsome seats ; Craggy precip r; '."ttiements on the river; York islan m vn '-i' . .^a:■ k'. TRAVELS !i„>. ''■/y' IN THE UNITED STATES, &c. .■■I '■ '>i>V< >t; >c .i/,0,. ■;/v:; ■AiU.'i >i' ■• . ^ ^ '^^ CHAPTER I. ' ; , GlasgaWi — Greenock, — Savannah, > Having shipped my goods on board the Warrington, cap- tain Hinkley, bound from Greenock to Savannah, I set out from Glasgow for Greenock by the stage coach, on Saturday, the 8th of March, 1806. There are two roads from Glasgow to Greenock, the one direct, by Renfrew, the other by Paisley. The stage took the latter route, which lies through a level, well- cultivated country, and pretty fertile, to Paisley. Paisley is 7 miles distant from Glasgow, and is an irregularly built town, the streets mostly narrow, and not very clean. It contains upwards of 30,000 inhabitants ; and the principal ma- nufactures are fanw, on thh side, is Goiu'Ock, which- ore celebrated watering-places, and nuich frequented by tine citizens of Glasgow in the summer season; and an the west is situated ^oGeneath, a seat of the duke of Argyle. It was lately burnt Ucv/n, but it is- now rebuilt in an elegant style, and eommands a fine view o§ the Firth and its shaping. The whole country round rise» into high lands, and the view is terminated to the north and west by lofty mountains. i'rom Uiis configuration of the country, connected with the SCOTLAND. S7 ry upon iC iver is the nd roman- )ne of the minated tv I which artf s seen, the the river, jiasgow, a >nded to be e shipping b possesses is is Gree- Id not sail out 18,000 lerce of the ile capitaL ^rge share, est In^s^ nearly the B three or harleston Norfolk, ssels; and e country pearance. es below, ts to the urg, and elcbrated Glasgow {eneath, a but it is- view of nd rise» lorth and rith the winds which blow across the Atlantic Ocean, we may account for the frequent rains with which this place, and indeed the greater part of the west coast of Scotland, is inundated. The wind blows from the south-west for eight or nine months in the year, and is particularly prevalent in the winter season. In its course from the warm latitudes, over the vast expanse of water in the Atlan- tic Ocean, it is highly impregnated with vapour; and, arriving on jthe high lands on the west of Scotland, it is suddenly con- densed, and falls down in torrents of rain. From these circum- stances, the winters are mild and rainy. There is comparatively little snow, and it never lies long; but i,t has been frequently observed to rain for forty-two days successively. I cannot better illustrate this, th^^ by relating an anecdote of an English travel- ler, and a waiter at one of the public inns. The traveller had Arrived there for the first time. Qfi the morrow, he intended to transact his business, but was prevented by the rain ; and so suc- cessively, for four or five days. At last, accosting the waiter, ." What, my lad," says he, does it always rain here ?" ** Q na," ^s the waiter, it sometimes snawa." No material occurr^ce happened during py stay in Greenock, and I went on board the Warrington, on Wednesday, the 12th of March. A Mr. Ballard, of Boston, was my fellow-passenger in the cabin; and ja Mr. Miller and a Mr. M*Kenzie were pas- sengers in the steerage* We set sail at ? p'clock in the afternopji, accompanied by the Factor, Caldwell, 28 TRAVELS ON miles, to the Cumbraes, ivhere she hove to, to dischurgc th« pilot, and we passed her; and she again passed us, while we were discharging ours. Five miles below Greenock is the Clough light-house, where the river contracts, and makes the sudden bend to the soutli be* fore noticed ; a little beyond which it spreads out into a spacious firth, and embosoms i^everal islands, the chief of which arc Arran, Bute, and the Cumbraes. It is bounded with high lands on both sides, and the islands are generally rugged and lofty. Arran, in particular, rise^ into very high mountains. The channel is very safe, and is navigable, at all seasons, for vessels of any burden. It was dark when we discharged the pilot, and I retired to rest. When I rose in the morning, I found we had passed the island of Arran, and were abreast of that singularly insulated rock, in the middle of the channel, celebrated in song by the favourite Scottish bard. Burns— r •* Meg was deaf as AUsa Craig" Here we had a veiy extensive view of the Scottish and Irish coasts. The Factor was a few miles ahead. The wind continued light and variable, so that we did not get out of the channel until the afternoon, when we passed the Mull of Cantyre, soon after which we passed Rathlin Island; and on the morning of the 14th, rre found ourselves in the At- lantic Ocean, and had a most extensive view of the north-west coast of Ireland, and the Western Islands of Scotland. In the afternoon, we were abreast of Tory Island, from whence we took our departure, and, bestowing my benediction on the British islands, I committed myself to the waters of the Atlantic, hoping for a speedy and plea$ant passage, and a safe arrival on Columbia's shore. The wind continued very variable, accompanied with cold, stormy weather, with rain, hail, and snow, occasionally, until the 16th, when it got more settled. During all this time, we had kept sight of the Factor, but she was generally ahead. We now took a fair, strong breeze from the eastward,- at the com- mencement of which the Factor was ahead fully twelve miles, and the ships had now a good opportunity for trying their full speed. We soon found that we gained upon the Factor very fast, and finally passed her on the morning of the 17th, to the great inortificatipn of her. captain, who tried her on all tacks, but with THV ATLANTIC OCEAN. 29 ischurgc th« lile we were ousc, where lie souUi be- a spacious li are Arran, ids on both Arran, in inol is very my burden. [ retired to [ passed the ly insulated ong by the and Irish ^e did not passed the in Island; in tlie At- north-west L In the whence we he British Atlantic, arrival on .11 ' rith cold, ally, until time, we jad. We the com- ve miles, their full Tery fest, the great but with out success; and he finally shaped his course more to the north* ward, and we lost sigiit of the vessel during the day. This breeze continued, wafting us along at the rate of nine or ten miles an hour, until the afternoon of the 20th, when we were to the westward of the Western Islands, and congratulating ourselves on the prospect of a speedy passage. — But, lo ! a sudden reverse took place. The wind, which was blowing from the south-east, increased into a furious gale, and the ship was brought from top- gallant and studding sails, to foresail and close-reefed main top-sail. The gale increased, the ship laboured \\ati\i and ship.^ pcd a great many heavy seas ; but at 1 o'clock, on the morning of the 2 1 St, it lulled into a perfect calm. It was now that wc felt the most disagreeeble effects of the gale; for the sea had risen mountains high, and the ship, having no sail to steady her, partook of the motion of every wave, and rolled so sharp, that she threatened to toss her masts overboard. This state of things was, however, of short duration. At 2 o'clock, the wind shifted to the north-west, blowing most furiously, till about sunrise, when it became a little more moderate, and we made sail ; al« though the cross tumbling sea, occasioned by the contrary gales, made our sailing intolerably uneasy. We had now a series of head winds, and disagreeable weather^ which will be best described by giving an extract from my sea journal. March 22. First part, strong gales and clear weather, Middle and latter part, strong gales, with rain and hail, a very heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. 23. Strong gales and thick weather all these twenty-four hours, a very heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. At 9 o'clock in the evening, the ship was struck with a very heavy sea, which carried away the bulwarks, and split the starboard plank sheer nearly the whole length of the main deck, washed the cambouse-house out of its place, and nearly carried the cabin-boy overboard. At 12 o'clock at night, shipped another very heavy sea. 24. Commences with strong gales ^nd a heavy sea. Middle part more moderate, but a heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. Latter part moderate, and all hands, employed in rcpair<^ ing the damages of the gale. 25. Fu'st part, fresh breezes and clear. Middle, tremendous squalls. Xntterpart, light airs, inclining to acakn. •> '^ ' *; n so TRAVELS ON • 26. First part, light winds. Middle aud latter part, freftk breezes and cloudy. . ,^ ^, 27. First part, fresh breezes, and thick hazy weather. Middle part, the breeze increased tP a most tremendous gale, and at 1 1 q'cIocIc at night, the ship wa» struck with such a sea, as made her quiver to her centre. My fellow-passenger was thrown out of his birth with the violence of the sliock, and the cabin was nearly filled with water. There was no making sail in thic ircatlier, and the ship was hove to. Latter part, very strong gales, with furious squalls, a very heavy sea, running, and tj^e •hip leaking much in her upper works» ^. i,,.., This, and those of the 2I$t and 23d, were the only severe galav we encountered, but we had a series of head winds, gales, and squalls with occasional showers of rain, hail, and snow, till the 22d of April, when I find the following remarks in my Journal t f* Being now out forty-one d^ys, and little more tUaa twp-thirds of the passage, the wind right against us, and no appearance df »hifting, we apprehend a long passage, and the ship's pompany are put on short allowance of water. I am much afraid pur good§ ^ill be too late for the Savanna)i market." The head winds continued, but we had more moderate weather^ ^ough occasional gales, till the 26th, vfKyni we spoke a sjoop out two days f^m B^muda, Being now near the^e little islands, I may step out of my course to describe them, though I did not see They are four in nuiober, and were discovered by John B^rBnur fiaeSf a Spaniard, in 1527; but the I^Muiiards neglecting them, ^ey were agun di^overed by Sir George Sopamers, who wa^ fhipwrreckcd on tK^m in 1609. Of these islands, the chief is St. ijeorge, having a capital of the same n/»me, eonsistifig of abou^ ^0 houses, built of ^pft freenstpne. St. Geprge contains about ^^000 inhabitants, and the whole isbnds periiaps about 9000, of irhom nearly, two-thirds ar« slaves. The people are chiefly occur pied in building small craft, with which they trade to Canada and ^he West Indies ; and tjsey are said tq be very (st^pe^t at the busi? |iess of privateering. The civil govon^ncait is vested in a goveiv fior, oDuncil, aqd general assembly* The rehg^n is Uiat pf the ichurch of England, and a native pf Felth^ i^ Sp(^andt is noinistef. 4 . The bead wind» etill cwniioned* bnt tjhe wefithfr wa# moderate ; ffpd after crossing the gulf sttemr we mt4p ^ JM P& th^ 7tb «^ I Till ATLANTKi OCEAN. St part, fresk icr. Middle Icf and at 2a, as made thrown out cabin was ul in thif! verystron/j tg, and tlie levere galei galea, and 3w, till the \y Journal t twp-thirds ^earance oS 's pompany 1 pur good^ te wcatheri I sloop ou| ) islands, I did not see May, supposed to be cnpe Look-out, on the coast of North Caro- lina. But the head winds still continued, and we were (to use a sea phrase) jammed in betwixt the gulf stream and the coast, so that we could make no progress whatcrcr till the 10th, when, to our great joy, we got a fair wind, which wafted us briskly along, and we nmdc Tybec Light-house early on the morning of the 12tli of May, after a turbulent, disagreeable passage of 61 da}'8« The breeze continuing favt)urablc, we soon approached the bar, where, having got a pilot, we Waited half an hour for the tide, and then made sail up Savannah river ; which I found a perfect contrast to the Clyde, the banks being low and muddy, and the country round a perfect level. In ow passage up we saw a good many fishes and alligators ; which last arc fri^tful-Iodcing animals, but they are by no means so dangerous as generally represented. At 2 o'clock we passed a bend in the river called Four Mile Point, and at 3 came to anchor at Five Fathom Hole; w'hcre having dined on board, for the last time, we set out in the small boat for Savannah, which, we reached at 5 o'clock. '-^ ■;v i *^ -i CHAPTER n. General Remarks, a "1 r X HE roost material circumstances which happened on boan!, are recorded in the foregoing chapter ; but the passage may admit of the following general remarks. The Warrington was a good stout vessel, of S18 tons burden, remarkably handsome and well found, and a very fast sailer : but her cargo was light, and all at the bottom, so that she Was not well trimmed for sea ; and her motion was sharp, and intolerably uneasy. Captain Hinkley, the commander, was bred a sailor on board of this same vessel, and raised himself t^ his own merit to the rank he now holds. His scientific knowledge did not seem to be great, but he was an excellent seaman, and very careful in the raanagem^t of the vessel. He was provided with an excellent mate, in Mr. Arnold ; who to a thorough knowledge as a seaman, joined a correct knowledge of the theory and practice of navigation,- and sciences connected 1 ,1- TRAVILS OH J, , with it : he was moreover a very agreeable, intelligent man, an^ I received much information from his remarks. , jjj^t Mr. Ballard, my fellow passenger, was an intelligent, good- natured young man* With the steerage passengers I had of course less connection, but they were agreeable } and the sailors behaved themselves with propriety during the passage^ The motion of the vessel was too great to (lermit us to amuse ourselves at any gtfme ; and I devoted my time pretty closely to the study of navigation, geography, astronomy, and chart draw- ing ; in which I flattered myself that I made tolerable proficiency. The study of chemistry took up part of my time, and so also did general literature and music. To the principles of merchandize in general, and the trade between Glasgow and Savannah in par- ticular, I paid much attention, and drew up on essay on the ship* ping trade between the two places, and the best method of prose- cuting it ; but circumstances have since occurred which render it of little importance to the general reader, and I omit it, and sub- stitute in its place the following reflections on the prevailing winds and currents, with other phenomena, in the Atlantic ; and an in- quiry as to tlie best courses across that ocean at different seasons of the year. , .. I. OF THE WINDS OF THE ATLANTIC. The trade wind prevails between the tropics, that is, from 2S J« S. to SSt** N. latitude being 47 degrees in breadth; and is a constant motion of the air from east to west, having a little variation near the extremes, that is, towards the southern tropic it inclines to the south-east, and towards the northern tropic it inclines to the north- east. The cause of this current of air is supposed to be the action of the sun, which is always vertical at one point or another between the tropics ; combined with the diurnal motion of the earth, which has a greater velocity here than at any other point. The action of a vertical sun rarefies and expands the air, in consequence of which it rises ; and the motion of the eaith sweeping from under it at the rate of more than 1000 miles an hour to the eastward, causes a constant current of air to the- westward. The velocity of this current is various ; but when I sailed in it, in my voyage to the West Indies, it was very strong, and regular, canying a heavy sailing vessel at the rate of 8 miles an hour, and it never shifted a point from due east. man) and I ;ent, good- id of course trs behaved U8 to amuse ' closely to :hart dravr- proficicncy. 1 so also did nerchandize mall in par- on the ship* xi of prose- ch render it it, and sub- liling winds and an in- rent seasons from 2«IJ« is a constant iation near llines to the the north* le action of ler between •th, which iThe action luence of under it eastward, le velocity I my voyage ;arrying a id it never TUB ATLAMTIC OCRAK.' 9S A little attention to the nature of this wind may be useful, at it illustratr^ the theory of the variable winds, and bears with considerable force ujKm the theory of the climate of the United States. From thp tropic of Cancer, in 23 A", to about 28* north lati- tude, the -vind generally blows from the north-east, and is a branch of the trade wind, partaking of its nature. Between the latitudes of 28** and 32o north, the winds are very irregular; and that being the region between the trade and variable winds, it is subject to frequent calms. Between the latitudes of 23*> and 50** north, westerly winds are by far the most prevalent, particularly in the winter and spring, during which thoy frequently rise to furi- ous gales and squalls. Beyond 50° north, I had not occasion to remark, but I believe they are most prevalent from the north-west. II. OF THE GULF STREAM. ■■;< f 'J This stream is a consequence arising from the trade winds. By an inspection of the chart of the Atlantic Ocean, it will be seen, that the vast quantity of water of which that ocean is made up, must be affected by a constant current of air sweeping along it in one direction. This must necessarily give a small degree of motion to the water, which being slanted off by the direction of the coast of South America, has, towards the southern extremity^ a north-west motion, and proceeding through the West India islands, raises the waters in the gulf of Mexico beyond the level of the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans. The current being stopt by tlic isthmus of Darien, winds along the northern coast of the gulf of Mexico, in search of a level, and finds an outlet tlirough the gulf of Florida, between the island of Cuba and the south jioint of East Florida. From thence it proceeds in a north-east direc- tion, sweeping the American coast, at the distance of 60 or 70 . miles from the land, until it reaches cape Hatteras, where it ap- proaches within 20 or 30 miles of the coast ; here it tends more to the eastward, until it reaches the coast of Nova Scotia, when it takes a course nearly due east. It continues this course until it reaches the Great Bank of Newfoundland^ where it seems to be materially affected, and diverging to a greater breadth, is finally lost towards the Azores and Madeira islands. x,...] The breadth of this stream, in the gulf of Florida, i^ about 6 It >t f 9^ TRAVELS IH 89 Off 40 ndles. It csicrcuset m it proceeds to the iiMfth-eilst : opposite cape Hatteras it is about 150 miles; off the coast of Nova $coUait is about 4 degrees ; and at the Bank of Newfoundlmid it is about 5 degrees ; from thence diverging to 6 or 7. . Thef velocity of the ourrent is, in the gulf of Florida, about fijve or six miles an hour, but it decreases as it proceeds to the nortb-east. Opposite cape Hatteras it is about two miles ; off the coast of .Nova Scotia it is about one and a half; and at the banks of Newfoundland it is about one mile. The probability is, that its course is directed to the eastward by the iniluence of the rivers- issuing from the coast of America, particularly the great rivci* SL Lawrence, opposite to which it seems to make the greatest bend; and it is also probable that the confluence ot these waters and another stream proceeding from Davis* Straits, has contributed to raise the Banks of Newfound- land. ' • .kav-Ji^ ;:.*■; .:iir '^j .11: The temperature of this stream is different from that of the surrounding ocean, and partakes of that of the waters in the gulf <^ Mexico, being generally 10 or IS^ degrees warmer than the other parts of the oceait. Hence it affect8> the temperature of the air above it, which is frequently subject, particrularly in the spring, to calms, fogs, whirlwinds, water spouts, and storms of diunder and lightning. The heavy fbgs which hover over the Banks of Newfeufldfand, seem to arise from this warm fluid, mixing with the cold atmosphere generated by the stream firom Davis' Straits. The next phenomenon which I shall notice, as bearing on this subject, is, that islands of ice^ sometimes numerous and of great extent, arc carried by the stream from Davis' Straits, in the spring season ; and before they are dissolved" by tlie warmth of the Atlantic, they sometimes extend as far south as the latitude of 45^ or 40O, and as far east as the longitude of i^° or 50°. Vessels sailing to and from America have been frequently entangled amongst thcm^ and some^hare been tn. ally lost. A correct knowledge of these circumstances is of considerable iinp6lM;{mce to our inquiry, and the following practical deductions iftay be of service to those interested in the result. ■ ^' •'^^- • ^ 1st. Ships bound fVom Britain to the West Indies should shape their cotn'se from the channel to St. Mary's, one of the Azores; from thence, to where the longitude of 40" intersects the latitude- of 23 1** ; and fhun tlience run down the trades for the intended €i • V '• CBORCIA^ S5 le iKH'th-eflst: coast of Nova Newfoundlmid )r 7. Florida, about oceeds to the wo milea ; off f ; and at the the eastward t of America, i to which it probable that )ceeding from )f Newfound- II that of the !rs in the gulf ^er than the erature of the in the spring, s of thunder le Banks of mixing with 'is* Straits. Aring on this md of great raits^ m the warmth of le latitude of . Vessels entangled considerable deductions lould shape he Azores; :he latitude* e intended porf. Ships bound from Europe to the gulf of Mexico, should keep the same course. The return from the West Indies and Mexico to Europe is different according to situation^ as a few dt* grees of longitude make an important variation. Generally speak- ing, it is best for vessels to bear to the northward until tliey get in* to the variable winds, and then keep ak)ng with them in tlie fteor^ est way to their intended port. 2d. Vessels bound to the southward of the arse, at this scoseo, they will avbid several difficulties, 1st. The tlanger of falling in ^th islands of ice. 2dly. Tlie necessity x>f passing the gulf stream if^her^itis ibirr tn* five degrees broad, and at that season subject to much bad weather And 9dly. Thb chance of meeting with a series of head winds. In the autumn there is no ice to be dreaded, the weather is more mikl, and the westeriy winds less prevalent, while the latitudes between 26* and 32** are much subjected to calms, «o that it is best, upon the whole, to run for the intended port. v^ .. 3d. Ships bound to the northward of the capet of Virginia should shape their course direct for the intended port, llwy have no occasion to cross the gulf stream, and, {is to the ice, it may be prudent to keep a little to the southward, as they approach the Banks of Newfoundland. 4th. Vessels bound to Europe from any port of America, can> not do better than run direct for the intended port. &' r" tull-frog, and the shrill treble pipe of the musquetoe. Neverthe- less, I soon got familii(pzed to the place, and even fpnd of it. My business, which was well organized, was succeeding to my wish, and the inhabitants, lyhom I found yery obliging, became every 4ay more amiable in my cyeSf Savannah is situated in 32? 3' north latitude, on a high sandy l)^nk, or bluif on the south side of the Savannah river, n miles from the sea. The city is l^d out on an elegant plan, and is about a mile in length from cast to west, and about a quarter of a mile in breadth. It consists of 30 streets, 16 squares, and 6 lanes, con- taining about lopo houses, and 5500 inhabitants; of whom about 2500 are slaves. The public buildings are a CQurt:-houi^, jail, aca- demy, bank-office, and five places for public worship. There has lately been built a very handsome exchange, with a spire and ob- •ervatory, from whence vessels may be seen put at sea 10 or 12 xniles. The situation of Savannah is favourable both for health and cp^nmerce. The bluff on which |t is built is from 5p to 70 feet high, so that there is a fine descent to the river. This bluff is a bed of very fine sand ; and by digging wells abou^ gO or 70 feet ^eep, a supply of excellent water is procured, probably a filtration from the river. The streets are broad and airy, and the city, being only 17 miles from the sea, frequently enjoys a sea breeze, which is cool and refreshing in the summer season. The trade of the city is considerable, and employs 1 3 regular ships to Britain ; 15 packet brigs and schooners to New York ; two or three to Phikdelphiai Baltimore and Boston; two or three opinion was the habit o^ as afterwards re would be )uld be, upon correct, for t seldom rose slon upon me Y other I had lal object to ith, east, and ind the music paking of the (. Neyerthe- n fpnd of it. ig to my wish, lecame every a high sandy er, n miles and is about er of a mile 6 lanes, con- whom about 11^, jail, aca- There has •ire and ob- |sea 10 or 12 for health m 5p to 70 'his bluff is (0 or 70 feet a filtration city, being [eeze, which 13 regular I York ; two or three GEORGIA. ^7 sloojH to Charleston ; and four or five vessels to the West Indies. Besides these, there arc a number of vessels that come from the northward, annually, to take freight for Britain, and the continent of Europe. : ' ' ' '^ The country in the vicinity contributes but little to the supply of the city. To the south it is sandy and barren for a considerable distance ; to the north, east, and west, considerable crops of rice are raised ; but it is thought that the rice fields contribute to makei. the city unhealthy. Cotton and rice are the staple commodities of the state ; and Savannah bfeing the only shipping port in it, is, of course, the general mart for the disposal of these articles. The sea- island cotton of this state is reckoned superior to any in America. Tlie principal islands where it is raised are JSt. Symons and Cum- berland ; but it is planted and comes to maturi^ in all the other islands along the coast from Charleston southward, as well as on other places of the seaboard, and is thence called seaboard cotton^ or, as some of my Scots friends would have it, ** seabu/rd •woo.** The exports from the state amount to above two millions of dollars annually ; besides what is carried coastwise, which is not entered at the custom-house, and which may probably amount to as much more. The great value is in cotton, and the whole centres in Sa* vannah. The imports are from Europe, the West Indies^ and the northern states, and consist of dry goods, hardware, groceries, flour, &c. ; and it is presumed they are nearly ecjual in value to the ex- portst Supposing the aggregate to be 8,000,000 dollars, and allow 7 per cent, commission to the Savannah merchants, the result will be 560,000 dollars, as the annual income of Savannah, which may perhaps be pretty near the trvith. Savannah river is one of the most important in America. Its head waters consist of two small rivers which rise near the moun* tains, and form a junction about220 miles from the sea ; from thence it runs a south-east course, and falls into the ocean 17 miles belo# Savannah. It receives several small streams in its progress, and is the boundary line between Georgia and South Carolina, during its whole course. It is navigable for ships of any burden to within three miles of Savannah ; for ships of 250 tons to Savannah j and for boats of 100 feet keel to Augusta. Above Augusta are tlie Ra- pids, and, after passing them, the river can be navi^ted 80 miles higher, in small boats, to the junction of the head waters. It may be f'emarked that through the medium of (his river a cooiideraUe Iff II 1; 'I, I ! ii ■WTAVELS IN put of Hbe produce of SonCh Carolina is carried to the Siivsnnali TheTKer bbomad^ vrith fish, aod the water is soft and good ; but the country on its banks is by no means healthy, especially in the UwerpMTt of tile Btftte. XH , i : h lOii Ji 'U * CHAPTER JV. Savannahi'-^fVai/Ttesborottghf-—Louisvillef • r*. •> : JHLAVING arranged jny afl^sin Savannah, and confided tlie iQAii^gement of the business to a trusty assistant, I resolved, in ^urauABce of zsy' original plan, to make a tour to the upper coun«- iiy, for ^ purpose of acquiring information, and forming con- pexione. The season was far advanced for travelling, in that coun- «try« but J trusted to a good constitution und temperate habits; .And finding * gentleman about to go to Augusta, I resolved to i;^y^..mpelf ;Qf his company. I accordingly pi|rchased a horse, 4bc which I pai4. lliS dollars, saddle and bridle included, and, bwijig^yery thing, prepared,, we set out at mid-day on Friday, ji^ne 2.7th. We took the Augusta road, and at two miles from £lav»noah, we passed the branch which leads to Louisville. A little beyond this there is a fine spfing of pure water, much fre- ,jgilfDled-.by the inhabitants of Savannah in the summer season. J^en miles from Savannah we met two travellers, who informed ,1^ that the creeks* were all swelled to a great height, and the bridges broken down, so that we coi^ not ppssibly get along. -JeYip road was, indeed, far from inviting. There had been a long lories of rainy weather, and the ^ternoon was very sultry ; but ,)re resolved to go through, if possible, and accordingly kept on ./Mir Qowcse. Two miies from w;here we met the travellers, we lyyarhed the firat obstacle, caHed Pipemaker's Creek. The bridge frag nearl^r j;one,' but we adjnsted the rafters a Uttle^ and witii j0O}edi£^ulty led .^ur. horses over. After travelling three miles ^ff^vcf we reachf^ A^s|lin'6 Creek* and hercs the bridge being .fBtirely gone^ we awam ijur. horses ao-oss. A mile further on o]|r« reMbed Bifuilf Crqek, 4he largest §nd most dangerous of tlie ^^jfoo^ It hod .svell^ to a great extent ; in the middle the current ^-t tlftrteftft fc, In this rhftcJT States, sj^lied to stmma or rifulet* C( a i« : ' I' the Siivannali nd good ; but lecifllly in the , ■ 1 confided tlie resolved, in upner coun«> forming con- in that coun- erate habits; ' resolved to ased a horse, icluded, and, y on Friday, miles from ouisville. A much fre- imer season. lo inf<»med It, and the get along. been a long sultry; but fly kept on 'aveUers, we The bridge and with three miles idge. being further on Tous of the the corrent '\ was rapid, and the bridge was in a very shattered coaditicxu Wq had to wade with oin- hors^is nearly belly deep^ above 200 yavd^ befoie we came to the bridge, and here aligjUting, I walked a- long, up to the knees in water, adjusting the rafters m i)f|H afl J^ could, and then with considerable difficulty led my hone oiver :> a cqnntryman, whom we came i^ with at the bridge^ attempted) to follow my example, but his horse fell through^ and was near being lost. I pitied the poor man, who- was in gveat '(^ietioa for his crature^ a» he called the hone ; but we assist^ l^iip^, apdt with considerable difficulty got the cvature relieved* M^ feUow- travdUcr declined fpllowisg our example, and,, ^tripping hitthori^ he swam him though the cre^k^ himself walking fJoBg the k»^ mains of the sliattered bridge. After passing the bridge^ we had» i^in to wade about 200 yarda b^ore we readied dry Imi } aad^ a litde beyond the credc, we arrived at Hd/s Ian, where we^ stopt for dinner. Here we found the Augusta stage and passengfrs*! They had set out two houi^ before us, and, having the sam^ okv<* stacles to encounter as ourselves, had been detained tiius Ion|^ Our dinner consisted e£ fowls, baeouy eggs, butter, wheat breadn Indian corn bread, rice, and homony. The last ia(«tio|ie^. du^ I had not seen before, and it is not generally known. , It k- madct of Lidiaa com cleared of the husk, and broken by beatin|^ but not very small; it is then boiled in water to the consistence o£ pudding, and served up for use. "Wl»eil well prepared, it is very; patalable, and is wholesome nutritive food. A little ciierry In'anr dy vfaf, the only liquor we could get. The charge for n»aa andi horse was 75 cents. Leaving Hely's, we travelled two miles, when my fell&wtravel* ler stopped to point out the spot where twt> negroes were execiiteds for killing an overseer. The one was banged, and the other was burnt to death. I was informed that this mode of punishment is sometimes inftietcd on negroes, when the crime is vecy ^9gpant»> to deprive them of the mental consolation arising frota ai'llope* that they will after death return to their own country. Tbisliifiy b* good policy as respects the blacks; but, in mercy to thi^ whiter l)cople, I wish it could be avoided. When I looked a| ti»» torched tree where the mim had been tied, and obsenrad t]»d fragments of his bones at the foot of it, I was horror-striicli ; and I never yet can think of the scene witfaofut a pang. Whikt iBeloigK muH have been excited in those who saw the executiodil. Thir^ 40 trAVils lit < Lv m '^ teen miles beyond this we reached Berry's taveiu^ 26 miles from Savannah, and here we stopt for the night. The afternoon was sultry, and, in consequence of the heavy rauu, tlia road was very bad. The first 13 miles we were quite enveloped in thick pine woods, with very little brush-wood. The •oil is pdor and sandy, so that there are few settlements. The last 15 miles were rather more pleasant, and there are more set« tlements; but the country is level, abounding with marshes, mus- quetoea, and bull-frogs ; and the soil continues poor and sandy. Saturday, l!8th June, we rose at S o'clock and settled cor bill, which amounted to one dollar and thirty-one cents each; and travelled through a barren, swampy, tinpleasant tract, 10 miles, when we stopped to breakfast at the house of a Major Ki»g. We were detained a lohg time here : but we were well compensated by getting an excellent breakfast, and the vie^v of the place was far superior to any thing we had seen since we left Savannah. It is situated on an eminence, the ground cleared for a cuses should : impure air, the lungs as iod is well nd it parts with it, an e^eficial to )articularly GBOBGIA. 43 those having an acid smell. I was once recovered from fainting by the application of southernwood. I had been oiTectcd by breathing air deprived of its oxygen in a crowded church. Th« oxygen of the plant supplied the defect, and relieved me. i^>iu- a. Having breakfasted, we pursued our journey 1 1 miles through a country nearly similar to that already described, but rather in an improving state, to where the road forks; the right branch leading to Augusta, the left to Waynesborough. We took that towards Waynesborough, on which the country improves rapidly. In place of pine barrens, swamps, and muddy creeks, we had now an elevated dry road, agreeably yneyen, and adorned oh each side with natural woods, consisting of pine, oak, hickory, and blaek-jadc. The underwood was pretty thick and busliy ; in- dicating a considerable degree of fertility. Seven miles from where we left the Augusta road we reached widow I^aseter's, where wc stopped to dinner, and were hospitably entertained. The heal- tliiness of the place was visible in the countenances of the family, among whom were two pretty little giiis. A little before we reached this place we passed a church, which we were inform«d belongs to the methodists. This sect lias been long established in Georgia, and the zeal with which they have propagated their opinions, and enforced the principles of morality amongst their votaries, does them credit. They have been of con- siderable use in society, and I wish them success in every good work. But I cannot see the propriety of some of their proceed- ^ ings. Their camp meetings may be very well meant, and may be calculated tq do some good ; but they are ^ species of f f holy fair^' at which "grace*' is not the only commodity to be purchased; and, from the mode in !|irhich they are frequented by the profane and the prpfiigatc, it is questionable whether the evil attending them does not overbalance the good. And I can see as little sensa in the practice they often have of thumping and making a qoife i« the time of divine service, thereby copvecting the temple of tho Lord into a scene of confusion and discord, exciting the laughter ' of the pro&ae, and distracting the serious. W6 were informed ' that a little before we reached this place, a poor girl was' so afford - ed, that she fell down in a fit ; and that a black female preacher, of the name of Dorothy Ripley, frequently attended,^ and hti/d thf ait of playing upon the passions so effectually, that she would iometimes trip half a dozen of her hearers, ^ Let all tlyiigs be 4. ■^^ ,^ 44 THAVKLS IK done decently and in orderj" says the apostle. Let the mcthodists go and do likewise, n^ I i '.i^/.'i^^-tA.i ».•.«* -.v. ft^, ..^ n, \ <••. % While we were speaking, we saw a crowd of men, women, and children, who had been at 4 baptist camp meeting. The bfiptists are said to b<; one of the most numerous and influential religious societies in the state. They are also zealous in propagating their opinions, and ar^ pretty austere in their manners; but I did not hear of any excesses in their camp meetings or churches. Leaving M^rs. Lasetef's, we travelled four miles to Waynes- borough, and Ipdgied at the l^ouse of Mr. Wynne; who to the business of tavern-keeper joins that of post mastcr« , WAYNES&onpuGH is built principally on one street, and consists of about 40 dwelling houses, church, jail, academy, and court- rooms. It contains 220 inhabitants, of whom above one half are slaves. The land in its vicinity is prptty good ; is cultivated a considerable way round ; and there are in its neighbourhood some very wealthy planters. It is^distant from Savannah river 12 miles, and has a considerable trade in dry goods and groceries. Having spent a day in this place, an4 parted with my fellow- traveller, who took the road to Augusta, I ^et oqt for Louisville on Tuesday the 1st of Jqly, at five o'clock in the morning. Five tniles from Waynesborough I came to a fine spring, and descended a considerable way by a stony path to a rivulet, on which I heard the soi^icl of several mills. The sound of machinery is always grateful to my ear, and the view of the stones excited no small de« grce of interest ; being the first that I had seen in the United Suites. After travelling nine miles, further, through a barren country, I pan^e to a deserted church, where the road forks. I took the wrong toad, which led me out of my po^rse among a number of plantations. I found the inhabitants were princip^ly Irish people, by one of whom I was informed of my mistake, and got dieections as to the best method of rectifying it. The family were at breakfest, consisting of pork, potatoes, and pofiee; and I was ho^itably invited to partake, but I declined it; and, pursmng the directions received, I soon reached the wa^<^ road from $l^« vanntth, and arrived at Louisville at 10 o'clo<:k. » Id' GBOMIA. le mcthodistii womeiii and The baptists itial religious agating their fut I did not IjM, to Waynes- ; who to the and consists , and court' one half are cultivated a urhood some ver 12 miles, es. :h m^ follow* or Louisville iming. Five id descended Ihich I heard ry is always no small de> the United ;h a barren iad forks. I se among a principally [stake, and The family »fiee ; and I pursuing id from $^* r»l t ;;! '.•i ■i.,i CHAPTER V. Lmdsoillc* _____ ■ * • _ ■' " ^ ■ liOUISVILLE is the present capital of the state of Georgia, and is situated on the north-east bank of the Ogcchce river, 70 miles from its outlet, and 100 miles west from Savannah. It con- sists of about a hundred dwelling houses, and contains about 550 inhabitants, of whom nearly one half are slaves. It is built on an elevated situation, and there is a pretty extensive view to the west- ward ; but considerable marsh effluvia is generated on the banks of the river, which renders the place rather unhealthy. The country in tlie neighbourhood is well cultivated ; and Louisville contains a civil, well-bred society. There are ten dry-goods and grocery stores in the place, and they have a considerable inland trade. Lou- isville is at present the seat of government, but it is about to be rc- fnoved to Milledgeville, a new settlement* about 50 miles distant. It was my intention to go further up tht»^ country, and I had e- very thing prepared for that purpose ; but in the evening I was sud- denly seized with a fever, which defeated my object, and at one time threatened very serious consequences. The day had been un- comnionly hot and sultry ; the thermometer stood as high as 93^' in the shade. In the evening there was a cool thunder gust, and the night got very close and sultry. I went to bed early ; but I had scarcely lain down when I found the fever come on with ex- treme violence. I was in danger of suffocation, and .ran to the window to get fresh air; but all was sti|l — there was not a breath of air stirring* I observed three beds in the room, empty, and thought I would try an experiment : I v'i'apped myself up in a blanket, and taking all the clothes of the three beds, I threw them, over me. I had a small bottle of Madeira wine prepared for the journey, of which I took a little, and laid it at my head. My puis0 rose to 130, and I suffered the most excruciating pain for about half an hour, when a profuse perspiration broke out and relievedt me. I partook freely of the wine, and kept up the perspiration until morning, when the fever was quite gone ; but I was debilitated to such a degree that I could hardly stand. On getting up, I judged, it e3^«di'ent to take medial advio^ and applied to a Dr. PowcU, who prescribed ^ome m(idiiciae^ and ^ 46 TX4VELS IN !^M 'Ni advised me to decline going further up tlie country at present, the season being quite too far advanced for travelling. He recom- mended to stop two or three days in Louisville, and then to cross over to Augusta by the way of Richmond Springs, where I could stop a £qw days, and in case I found I could not travel from Au- gusta on horseback, I could take the stage. This advice I resolved to follow, and made my arrangementu accordingly. Having, in consequence of this determinalion, a little time to spare, I wished tp apply it to the best advantage, and I was kindly assisted by my friend Dr. Powell. He invited me to his house, and introduced me to Mrs. Powell, a very sensible judicious lady, by whom I was treated with marked attention. The doctor and his lady gave me every information that could be desired, and I was finally invited to take a bed at their house, by which means I was relieved from tlie bustle of a public tavern, and the still more disagreeable sting of the musquctoes with whicl^ the bedrooms in it were infested. On Friday, the 4th of July, I |iad quite recovered from my fn- dispositioD, and walked out in the morning to see the statC'-house. It is a good building of brick, about 50 feet square, and consists of two stories, having three apartments each, and a large lobby. The l^ouse of representatives meet in an apartment on the lower floor, f nd the other two are occupied as the secretary's office, and the land office. Tbfe upper story consists of the senate chamber, the executive office, and the treai$ury. The offices were all shut ex- cept the land office ; I wept into it, and saw a map of the newly acquired territory, or purchase^ as it is called ; concerning whicli t^e le^lature had rjecently pi^ssed fin act th^t was the subject of •onsideral^le aniipadversion in the state. This territory is .situated between the Oakmulgee and Oco- nee rivers ; and was lately acquired in exchange with one of the Indian tribes. The land is said to be rich and valuable; and it is Tery extensive, consisting of about 100 tracts, of ^2 miles by 8. It is to be disposed of by tottery, in which everv citizpn of the United States who' has resided three years in Georgia, is entitled to a draw for 200 acres ; and those who'j^et the prizes have tp pay 12 dollars, being the expence of surveying only. This I regard ns a very improper way of disposing of public pfo- porty^ and it is peculiarly baneful to practise it under the reprer sentatiTf system. ' Property, when public^ belongs to every member be at present, tlie . He recom- I then to cross where I could ravel from Au- Ivice I resolved i little time to d I was kindly his house, and ;ious lady, by ion that could t their house, public tavern, es with whlcl^ i from my \n- le state-house* md consists of lobby. The e lower floor, ffice, and the chamber, the all shut ex- of the newly eming whicli be subject of and Ocor one of the e ; and it is es by 8. It the United xl to a draw 12 dollars, public pfo- the reprer »ry member GIOBGIA. 4T of the community, and no alienation ought to takt place without securing alike the righu of all ; but this can never be done by a lot- tery, which is a game of chance,—* and all cannot be gainers. To the gainer it is more than well— ho geU an advantage over his neigh- bour, and is satisfied; but who indemnifies the loser? In this case would it not have been bf^tter hr the state to hav# retained it, and sold it out at the market price? Hie funds arising from it might have been usefully applied in making roads and bridges, in improving the navigation of rivers, draining marshes, &c. Legislators have a most important trust reposed in them, and should never sacrifice great national objects to obtain tempo- rary popularity. This beiNg the anniversary of American independence, the day was ushered in by the firing of great guns ; and military companies had collected in Louisville, from the whole country round. On my return to the tavern, I found a considerable number of th« military assembled there. I was waited on by a committee of the artillery company, and received a very polite invitation to dine with them, which I accepted with pleasure, being anxious to ob» serve the mode of celebrating this- day, so important in the annaltf of America. About 3 o'clock we sat down to dinaer. The captain took hi» place at the head of the table, the oldest lieutenant at the loot ; the committee gave the different orders, and all were on an equal footing. Several of the state ofiicers dined with them. After dinner they drank Madeira wine to a series of toasts, one for each state, which had been previously prepared. Among the number were " The day we celebrate;" " The land we live in;" ** the president of the United States;" ** Memory of general Washington." ** Memory of Benjamin Franklin." Memory of John Pierce," &c. Each toast was followed by a discharge of artillery, and the music played an appropriate air. A numoer of excellent songs wei'e sung, and the afternoon was spent with grea^ conviviality and good humour. Having several calls to make in the town, I left the table early, but returned again in the evening, when I found that the cordU^ drop had added greatly to the elevation of the animal ^irits of the company. They had also received an addition to their awni* ber, by several military officers high in command, among whom wa^ major-general Jackson, Having occasion to |pYe n tomist, I tii,. IH iJI THAVILS IV availed myself of that opportunity, to impress them with favour- able sentiments towards my native country. America had been long regarded with a jealous eye by the councils of Britain, and im-almost total alienation of affection was the consequence. I knew that Mr. Fox*8 administration was favourably disposed to- wards America, and I was inclined as far as I had opportunity, to impress the Americans with that belief. Accordingly, after thanking the company for the honour they had conferred upon ihe, atid assuring them of my own friendly regard for the country, I propbsed as a toast, " Mr. Fox, and the independent whigs of Britain. May their joint endeavours with the government of the United States be the means of reconciling the difibrences between the two countries; and to the latest posterity may Americans and Britons hail one another as brothers and as friends." This was bordially received, and drank accordingly; and immediately after 1 was introduced to and politely received by the visiting officers. The whole of my observations in this place tended to convince me, that the American character was very indiflbrently under- stood in Britain; and, indeed, very much misrepresented. I ina satisfied from every thing I saw and heard, that there was no animosity against the British people whatever; and that the animosity against the British government was the consequence of what they conceive to be a series of injuries long persevered in, and some of them even justified on the score of privilege. Great mistakes may be coihmitted, by judging of the American character from what is to be seen in the seaports. Nothing can be more erroneous than a judgment so formed. The commercial cities of America are like those of other countries, and principle is oflen sacrificed at the shrine of commerce ; while a considerable part of the commerce of the United States is carried on by fo- reigners, each so anxious to extend the trade with his native "Country, in which he is most interested, that the tone of national Sentiment is often lost, or but indistinctly seen, in the conflicting opinions which are every day promulgated. To view the American character fairly, we must go into the interior of the country, and there the first remark will probably be, that the inhabitants have a spirit of independence, and wT. brodk no superiority^ Every man is conscious of his own political importance, and will suffer none to treat him with disrespect. Kor is this disposition confined to one rank; it pervades the whole m lUl piJ Tc GBOXt!IA«tt 49 I with favour' Mica had been f Britain, and onsequence. I ly disposed to- \d opportunity, sor^ingly, after :onferred upon or the country, tident whigs of ernmcnt of the (rences between Americans and Is.'* This vras imediately after [siting officers, ed to convince Ibrently under- represented. I that there was and that the e consequence lersevered in, ivilege. the American Nothing can le commercial and principle considerable ied on by fo- ith his native nc of national he conflicting go into the I will probably pnce, and w';'. own political th disrespect Ides the whole a ^iind is probably the best guarantee for the contmuanoe of the Jlibcrty and independence of the country. I It has been remarked, that this disposition may encourage ^rudeness ; but I have not yet seen it. As the people will bend to no superiority, they really affect none ; and I am impressed with the belief, that it is a stranger's own fault, if he does not feel very liappy among them. c, Saturday, July 5th. I left Louisville at 5 o'clock in the mom-* Ing, and travelled through a barren, sandy country, twenty mllea to breakfast. From thence, 1 travelled eight miles more, through pine woods, to Richmond Springs, which I reached to dinner. Towards the springs, the country gets elevated, and agreeably uneven ; but the soil is miserably poor. The springs have no other medicinal quality than what is conferred by limestone, of which there is here a considerable bed ; and there is a fine rivu- let, wliich Mr. Posner, the proprietor, has very judiciously di- verted iuto a bathing-house ; and, at a great cxpence, has conver- ted the whole into bathing quarters, with ample accommodations. I staid two days at this place, and found my situation very com- fortable. I had an opportunity of bathing in the pure spring water once or twice arday» and had limestone water, pure from the rock, to drink. Our victuals were good, and the cookery ex- cellent. My health I found re-established, and my spirits recruit- ed ; so that every thing concurred to render the place agreeable. And yet this place, which might be so beneficial to Georgia is neglected. Mrs. Posner is a woman of colour, and is disliked by the Georgian ladies, who will not go to her house. Where the ladies will ot go, the gentlemen will not go, and so poor Mr. Posner does not get a proper reward for his exertions, and the Georgians lose the benefit of one of the sweetest summer re- treats in all the country. I was really sorry to learn this tale, for I was exceedingly well pleased with madam Posner's attention. Tlie old man is a sort i of poet too, and, though his riiymes are not to be compared with I those of Pope or Milton, yet they are humourously recited, and 1 in a dialect that never fails to excite risibility. He favoured me -r widi a copy of verses, which he addressed to a little swindling I Jew of my acquaintance in Savannah, who, he said, had cheated him ; and of which the concluding stanza will be sufficient to sati»- . i'y the reader oi his poetical powers. 7 4 50 TltAVfLS IN V B«t it wrely wa» a grc»t «n, • " ' ' r >' To send me coininon whisky ia place of Holland* gin* . . t. . . The worst remains behind,— To send me common Malaga, in place of good Maderia wine. Monday, July 7th. Set out for Augusta, at 4 o'clock in the momii^g. The road, which is pretty good, runs through a hilly, uncultivated tract of country, on which there are some settle- mcntSj with several creeks, and saw and grist mills. I reached Augusta, w^ck is sixteen miles from the springs, at 9 o'clock. '^U»'-'-'f':?i.l>iirv' >^r««?Sv" CHAPTER VI,, •;-;? .l-vr,-. " ' ^"~ ' ' AugustU, — South Carolinaf^— Savannah* A.UGUSTA is situated on a handsome plain, on the south sidb of Savannah River, 127 miles from Savannah, and contains about 2iO0 inhabitants, of whom above one-half are slaves. The public buildings are, two churches, an academy, a court-house, jail, a market->house, and several public warehouses. The town is at the head of large boat navigation, and carries on a very extensive and profitable trade, both with Savannah and the back country. Many of the merchants are wealthy, and import their goods; and the greater part of the others purchase in New York. The towif was orignally settled by emigrants from Scotland : but the i^ociety is now very mixed, and probably those of Irish extraction are the most numerous. The inhabitants are in general well- infocmed, and have a considerable taste for literature. They are affable in their deportment, and polite and hospitable to strangers. The country round Augusta is agreeably diversified, and well cultiMated. . The whole plun, on which Augusta stands, is re- markably fertile; and towards the south-west, the country rises into considerable hills, interspersed with fertile plains, remarka- bly favourable for the culture of cotton ; and the cotton planta- tions are ill a, very thriving state. This iS' reckoned the boundary between the high and low country. The falls in the river are thre;^ miles above Augusta, and immediately on leavmg the town for the westward, the great contrast between this and the low country is seen : in place of swamps, marshes, and sandy deserts, the senses are gratified by high rising grounds, rich verdure in the woods, and clear strean^i^ of water. .. . , o'clock in the rough a hilly, e some settle- Is. I reached t 9 o'clock. the south side contains about }. The public t-honse, jail, a ; town is at the Y extensive and back country; ( their goods; w York. The and: but the ish extraction general well- re. They are le to strangers, fied, and well stands, i» re> country rises ns, remarka- otton planta- the boundary the river are ving the town and the low sandy deserts, |ch verdure in SOtJTH CAKOLIKA. I remained in Augusta, from the 7th to the 14 of July, during [which period, I made several little excurtions to the country, to ieee the cotton plantations, the greater part of which were in a thriving state. The river is here 500 yards broad, and very deep; and I found the trade upon it to exceed my expectation. The weather was hot and sultry, the thermometer varying irom ^8" to Q***, though one day it fell as low as 72®. I was well ^pleased with the civilities of the inhabitants, and I left Augusta with sentiments of friendly regard towards them. '^ A Mr. Scarborough, of North Carolina, gave me a very warm J invitation to visit him when I was in the upper country, and I resolved to cross the Savannah River, and return by his place. 1 accordingly left Augusta on the 14th of Jaly, at 11 o'clock, and, travelling about three miles through the level plain on whiclr the city stands, I crossed the river by a flat boat. Vhis road risev on the Carolina side, to a considerable eminence, but the soil is poor and sandy. At five miles from the river, I called at a very li< '^lome plantation, belonging to a Mr. Taylor, by whom I ^or, ij^ \taUy detained to dinner. A planter from the nei^- bo.v' r J was there, and, as his plantation lay on my route, I availed myself ^of his company, and had a very agreeable ride, pf twelve miles, to the saw-mill and store of a Scot^ gentleman, where I stopped for the night. > *- - ■ On the 15th, at day-break, I procieedetf on my journey, through a low, swampy, barren country, where the road forked so often, that I travelled with difficulty; but, after missing my way several times, I reached Mr. Scarborough's |it 11 o'clock, where I found a niost hospitable welcome. On my way I passed many creeks and saw-mills, ahd I learned that a considerable trade, in this part of the country, consists in sowing timber into boards and planks, called /««*^, and floating them down the river to a market. ' "^ ' , ;''" '. : ' Mr, Scarborough has a very comfortable estabHshment, con* sisting of a good farm, a store, and saw-mill; and, being much respected, hsis the best trade in this part of the country. Oa going into the store, I was surprised to observe the vast variety of articles it contained ; consisting of dry goods, groceries, hard- ware, earthenware, medicines, &c. I was informed, that the mode of doing hn'sinefls was to give a credit to the planters till (he'cropwafli ready^ fo^ market^ and then to take thdr surplus Wi'l' fiS .aThavbls on '. produce* consUting principally of cotton, in payment. The busi- ness was conducted by a discreet Englishman, and they had an ex- cellent run ; but I learned that country stores had multiplied to tuch an extent, that the business was overdone generally, and people would need to bo very captious in dealing with country merchants. Having been mqst hospitably entertained by this &mily for two days, I took my departure for Savannah, on Thursday, ITtli July, and rode 28 miles through a very barren country, contain- ing few settlements, to the honse of a Mr^ Pum], where I stop* ped for the night* . ..^u «.■«, • rui niniiiii Friday, 18th, Set out at daylight, and travelled through a more dismal country than any that I had yet seen. From Mrs* Punn's ^ Sisters's ferry, on the Savannah river, 14> miles distant, there is hardly a single se^tlem^n^, The country is perfectly level, ^xcept towards the river, where there ar^ a few sand-hills ; tho Fpods are mostly pine, and I foi^nd spmq settlements had been attempted, and abandoned by the settlers. At one of these I xnet with a considerable disappointment; I came to a fork of the road, and, see^g a plantation at a distance, I rode to it, to inquire the riight way; but^ lo ! qn my arrival there, 1 found it iuhabit- ^ by goats only. .« ,«w»**, aio. Jri.ifc^i *j ' . I arrived at the river about nine o'clock, and crossed the ferry in a flat boat, '^e river is here about 250 yards broad, aiid flows with a majestic sweap. I travelled, nearly f^ mile through a muddy ^wamp, in which the horse was frequently up to the knees, and J w^s much annoyed by musquetoes. f vom this swamp, the ground rises abruptly, to a considerable elevation, and bears evident marks of having been at one time the bank of the river. From hence I travelled about a mile, ^hen I came into the Savannah road, not far from King's tavern, mentioned iix the fourth chap- ter. I found the Savannah road now dry and gopd, and I tra- velled on with great expedition to Berry's, where the da^ being very hot and s^ultry, I proposed to remain for the night. Towards two o'clock,, the weather became cool, with |in east wind, and I set out for Savannah; but I had not travelled £ur, when I saw all the signs of an approaching storm. To the east, the atmosphere was black and dismal; the wind was irregular, and sometimes whistled violently; I could see the Ughtning flahh in the qlouds, and heard the Uiuuder roar at a distance; but \ I ..Mi ws ■§ TUB ATLANTIC dCIAN. 53 nt. The busi- tbey had an ex- i multiplied to generally, and g with country I family for two 'hursday, 17tli untry, contain- , where I stop* led through a . From Mrs: i miles distant, perfectly level, sand-hills; the ents had been me of these I > a fork of the to it, to inquire und it inhabit-: OBsed the ferry road, and flows Qugh a muddy he knees, and np, the ground bear? evident river. From he Savannah fourth chap- pd, and I tra- the d^ being Jght. with »n east travelled fari To the easti was irregular, igbtning flaiih stance; but \ ^as twnpted by the coolness of the air to proceed, and observing |that the settlements were pretty thick by the way skle, I resolved fcot to take shelter until there was absolute necessity. While I wai ^ineditating thus, I was suddenly and dreadfully alarmed. A stream ^f electric fluid, apparently as thick as a man's wrist, darted sud- denly from a black cloud, almost right over my head, and divid- ing in the middle of the road, a few yards before me, struck the l^es on each side, with a shock which made the whole woods j-ing. This was instantaneously followed by such a peal of thun- ider, as made my horse spring two or three feet high. I rode i,with increased speed, resolved to take shelter in the first house* but seeing no immediate appearance of rain I kept on my course to Dasher's, 20 miles from Savannah. Having stopped her* some little time, I observed the storm to spend its force in the eastward, and, being satisfied it was over, set out for Savannah; and, after an agreeable ride, reached the city at seven o'clock ii| the evening. I travelled, this day, 52 miles; and my whole jour-. Iiey was about SQO^ I remained in Savannah until the 27th of July. The weather was very hot and sultry, but the city continued pretty healthy. I was surprised to observe the vast emigration to the northward at this time, every vessel tor New York, Philadelphia, Boston or Bal- timore, being quite crowded with passengers. I had once an inten- tion of spending a few months on the sea islands with a friend, from whom I had a very warm invitation; but, in consequence of letter* from New York, I was induced to alter my determination, and go to that city* :-^^^' hu o.J: CHAPTER VII. ■ rf T: I- 4 him^ tv-^m^-- Passage to New York. Having arranged my business, and fixed upon a plan of cor- respondence with my friend in Savannah, I engaged a passage on board the brig Sally, captain A.nsdell ; passage money 20 dollaric and stores about 28. My fellow-passengers were a Mr. M*G^ and Mr. Enoe, of Savannah; Mr. Sayre, of New York; and a ^r. Scott, from the West Indies. W^ went on boards on Sunday morning, Uie 87th July, at liz 'if n r:'; uw. lt'\ ' mni-^ i^ .> ,ji TBAVBLS ON o*clocky and at half past six let tail. The breeze was light, but lair; aD<^ the tide being in our farour, we glided down the river ,%mj pleasantly } passed the lighthouse at 1 1 o'clock, and at 12 crossed the bar, and discharged the pilot. New York is distant from heace, by calculation, 615 geographical miles, in a direct Jine { b\it the projection of the coast at cape Hatteras obliges ves« sek to steer considerably to the eastward, so that they have to sail jpearly 800 miles* They generally make sail for the gulf streaiq in going north, that they may have the benefit of the current. We -were fkvonrefl with a southerly wind, and kept a course a little to the north oi east, till we reached the longitude of 78*^, when we steered a course nearly parallel to the coast, about north- east^ Here we were in the middle of the gulf stream, which by calculation^ carried our vessel • 37 miles \n 24 hours, which wo^d be a current of little more than a mile and a half an hour ; but it ift generally, supposed that the currept, at this place, is up< wfurds of two miles^ . We continued to have a favourable breeze, and made a good sudf without meeting with any circumstance worthy of remark, %ntil Saturday, the 2d Aiigust, when we experienced a very se- vere galef which almost upset tl^e vessel. The wind, which had been hitherto from the south md west, shifted to the south-east, amd was accompanied by thick foggy weather. We were within 80 or 4)0 utiles^ of Saady Hook, apd the wind was fair; but the pJe Increased, and the weather was too thick to see a pilot boat ; fo that the captain judged it expedient to stand out to sea. A gnn^ boat was a little astern, and followed our example. The gale in« creased almost to a hurricane, accompanied by thick rainy weather; the captain was carrying as much sail as possible, so a^ to weather Long Island, which, by calculation, was now but 20 miles to lee- ward. Being a good deal accustomed to rough weather, I wa^ lolhng in an after-birth, looking out at the cabin window, apd ber holding the effect of the gale on the ocean : vifhen, all of a suddent, I ibund t)ie vessel heel to leeward, and heard a great noise on deck^ r started tilr with an intention of going upon dedt^ but thefirei^l wattpthfron'her beam ends, and I had to swmg my6^ albiij^hy die-cabin births ; and on reaching the gangway, I found the" pas^ aengersJE^ crowded tntoit^ and in tears. I reached it just in tifna to hear the captain cry " cut the haUiardi^'* aiid immediately the wtf shivered to > ^keti^ and t^e vessi^ ri^hted^ Bat' our (,'1^' was light, but down the river ick, and at 12 [orli. is distant 18, in a direct as obliges ves* ey have to sail lie gulfstrean) e current. Lept a course a igitude of 78*?, :, about north-' stream, which hours, which . half an hour ; is place, isup^ THE ATLANTIC OCEAW. 55 danger was by no means over ; the vessel had not now Ae ikecea- Jiary sail to carry her out to sea ; and, the captain teid, if tfte ^ale continued, we must inevitably be driven ashore on Long Is- land. He was much affected, and in tears. He was a pleasant little man, and I really felt for him. I had heard somewhere that iouth-east gales on the coast of America, seldom lasted above IG 0r 12 hours J and, as this one had now continued upwards of nine fcours, I endeavoured to console him with the idea, that the chance was greatly in our favour. He aflmitted it was so, but could not Jhelp being affected while there as any chance against us, and the Ivessel in her present state. While we were speakings I chanced to look to the south-west, and observed a small speck of blue sky through the turbulent atmosphere. I pointed it out to the captain, and 1 never saw a roan so sensibly affected with sudden joy. He af- firmed the ^le was over, and in a few minutes all was still and calm. The wind shifted to the north-west blowing a delightful cool breeze, and shortly after there was not a cloud to be seen in the horizon. We put about the vessel, and stood in for the land ; but the wind was now right against us, and we made little progress. However we had time to patch up our sails, and made the best of our way towards our destined port. The weather continued favourable, and on the 3d of August, at daylight, we saw the high lands of Never Sink ; at 10 o'clock, we saw the light-house, distant 10 or 12 miles; soon af> ter which we had a fine view of Long Island, Staten Iiiland, the bay, and numerous vessels inward bound. The breeze continued light, so that it was 4 o'clock before we received a pilot ; after whi^h we came to anchor five or six miles south-east of the Hght- house. This pilot gave us information regarding the death of John Peirce, the seaman who was killed by a shot from the Lean- der } and told us that he had beep on bo|ird several coasting vessels himself ^ :h had been fired at by the Cambrian and Leander, on the conduct ot whose officers he reflected in very bitter terms. On the morning of the 4th we set sail, but the breeze died aw«y in a short time, and we again came to anchor within ha]f a mile of the beach, a little to the south of the light-house. At 11 a sniali breeze sprung up from the south, and we again weighed anchor. At half past 12 w^ passed the light-house, and, the breeze increaf- ing, we continued our course at a good rate, much gratified wit^ the prospect round us. Staten Island, rising to a considerable ele- vation, and clothed with verdure, was right ahead. Long Island I \\ I f--i m 1 : ■ M i ;. 'ji^i t < c TRAVELS In was on our right, with ft pretty view of the Narrows between them ; the high knds of Never Sink, astern, and the high lands of the Jerseys, to the westward ; with the great confluence of waters, and crowded shipping formed altogether a most beautiful picture : and it probably made a greater impression upon me than it would had I arrived direct from Europe,— the dull scenery of Georgia and South Carolina acting as a foih At half past two we passed the Narrows, the channel between Long Island uid Staten Island, about three quarters of a mile broad ; and immediately after New York, distant about 10 miles, vnth the bay and shipping, opened to our view ; which had a very fine effect. At half past 3 we arrived at the quarantine ground, which is beautifully situated on a small bay on the east side of Sat- ten Island, and having got a pass from the healtli ofiicer, we set sail for New York. I was very much gratified with the view, in our passage upwards There are several islands in the bay, and the scenery on each side is really beautif**' ; the city too is adorned with a number of spires, which have a \e effect, and in approach- ing it we passed a pretty point, plantei vith trees, ealled the Bat- tery. But we could not land at the city. By the health laws, ail cotton, after a certain season, must be landed at Brooklyn, on Long Island ; at which we arrived at 6 o'clock in the evening. From thence I passed over to the city ; and immediately waited on Mr< Stewart, a native of Perth, in Scotland, and an old acquaintance ; from whom, and his amiable wife, I received a most friendly wel- come, and a kind invitation to spend the summer with them^ whiob was cordiidly accepted* ^ ,„, ,. , . ....,; >. •■'•. V. CHAPTER VIIL New York* ( •'■>!..■. r tf J.' ,*.-:. iJi^'Vl'-v ]NeW YORK is situated on the soutli-west point of York island^ at the confluence of Hudson Imd East rivers^ in north latitude 40" 40'. The length of the city on East river is nearly two miles; and it attends along the nortli river nearly as much^ Its average breadth is about one mile, and its circumference ux. It consists of about 15,000 houses, including public buildings and ware-houses; •nd the inhabitants are estimated at about 80,000. By the census »r a. ] i :i NEW YOIIK. 67 between them ; gh lands of the ! of waters, and il picture : and in it would had »f Georgia and bannel between ters of a mile about 10 miles, ich had a very antine ground, tast side of Sat- icer, we set sail i view, in our lie bay, and the ' too is adorned nd in approach* (ialled the Bat- health laws, all oklyn, on Long vening. From waited on Mr< acquaintance ; St friendly wel- th them^ whiob if York island^ h latitude 40° wo miles ; and Its average It consists of ware-houses; By the census >f 1800, they amounted to 60,489, but the increase has bccrt very rreat since.* The houses are generally built of brick, with slated »r shingled roofs; and many of them arc handsome. The plan of the city Is not uniform. In the old part of the town ^mc of the streets are crooked, and many of them are too narrow ; Jl^ut all the modern part is built on a good plan ; and some of the Mew streets are uncommonly elegant. Broadway is the finest street lb the city, and from its importance and great beauty it merits a particular description. It commences at the Battery, on the south., west point of the city, and runs in a north-east direction about two miles and a half, where it forms a junction with the Bowery road. The breadth of this street, including the side pavements^ is about 80 feet, and it is regular, during its whole length. It is ornament- ed with rows of poplar trees on eftch side, and a number of public buildings arc situated on it, particularly the Custom-house, Trinity Lchurch, St. Paul's church, the city public buildings, the Mechanics' I Hall, and the Hospital. The street rises by a gradual ascent from the Battery, about half a mile, and is, at its greatest elevation, opposite I the city buildings. Its course is through the highest part of the island. Greenwich-street is next in importance : it rises also at the Battery, and, running nearly due north upwards of two milcsj connects the city with the village of Greenwich. — Pearl-street is bne of the most important in the city, in point of trade; it rises also near the Bat- tery, and runs nearly parallel with the East river to Cherry-street » from thence it runs to the northward, and falls into Chatham-street f Cherry-street is a continuation of Pearl-street, and runs along the East river till it is terminated by a bend of the river. — Bowery- lane is upwards of 100 feet wide, rises at Chatham-street, and, con- nected with the Boston road, formK a junction with Broadway, as before mentioned. The other most important streets are Wall- street, where the most of the banks and public offices are situated, Chatham-street, where the theatre is situated, Front-street, Water- street, and Broad-street. That part of the city which has been recently laid out on East ri- ver is constructed on a handsome plan, the utreets crossing one ano- ther at right angles ; and there are several public squares. Of these there are by far too few in the city, a^nd they hardly merit notice. The Battery, before mentioned, is a pretty piece of ground, and * By the census of 1810, the whole inhabitants on the island amounted to 96,375. f Since IfiQG, Pe^rl- Street has been extended beyond Chatham-street, to Broadway. S ' . ■ ■ 'ill" n^:: 58 TRAVELS IN commands an elegant view of the bay, islands, narrows, and shipping; but it is quite small, consisting of a few acres only. There is a small triangular piece of ground, called the Park, in front of the public buildings, which is very ornamental ; and these are all the public walks of which New York can boast Would it not be well, in laying out cities, to nf ake a large reserve of public property, while land is cheap ? Hyde Park at London, the Green of Glasgow, and the Inches of Perth, are instances of its utility. The public buildings are numerous. The first in importance is the City Hall, fronting the Park ; it is now erecting, of white mar- ble, and will, when finished, be the most elegant building in Ame- rica, and few in Europe will surpass it. The others are Federal Hall, Cuslom-House, College, CofTee-House, Mechanics' Hall, Theatre, Hospital, Prison, Bridewell. There are seven episcopal churches, five presbyterian, two Dutch, three methodist, two baptist, two quaker meeting-houses, one German, one Lutheran, and one French Calvinistic church, one seceder, one Scots reformed church, one church each for universalists, congr^ationalists, Moravians, and Africans, and one Jewish synagogue. There are five public markets in the city, of which the principal is the Fly-market; and these are well supplied with wholesome pro* visions, vegetables, firuit and fish ; and the prices are generally rea- sonable. A few of them may be quoted. Bee^ mutton, and veal, 9 to 12 cents* per pound; a turkey 75; a goose 62; ducks and fowls about 25 each ; eggs 14 per dozen ; butter 22 per lb. ; tea — souchong 75, hyson 125; coffee 20 per lb. ; sugar 12, refined 20- Bread is regulated by Hour, which is at present 8 dollars per bar- rel. Fish and fruit plenty and cheap. Madeira wine 2J dollars per gallon; claret 3 dollars per dozen ; brandy, rum, and gin, U dollars per gallon. There are a number of schools in the city, and the college, in which two of the professors are Scotsmen, is reckoned a very excel- lent seminary of education. To the north of the city, near Green- wich, stands the state-prison, modelled upon the plan of that of Philadelphia; and it is said to be one of the most benevolent insti- tutions ever established in any country. The city is well situated for trade. Having a spacious harbour, and easy access to the ocean at all seasons of the year, and being in a central situation in the. United States, it must necessarily al- * A dollar exchanges at 4s. 6d. sterling ; and ai^ cent is a fraction more than a halfpenny. hi 111 'ii ..: ■: ■■ . -1 JLl wh ac< the Gl bw for ^ thi m bu ^m we 't^^H th< NEW YOnx. 59 fSi and shipping; There is a small )nt of the public ! all the public not be well, in property, while of Glasgow, and n importance is ^, of white mar- uilding in Ame- rs are Federal echanics* Hall, seven episcopal list, two baptist, heran, and one formed church, }ts, Moravians, h the principal t^holesome pro* generally rea* ttbn, and veal, ducks and per lb. ; ten — 2, refined 2a. allars per bar- ine 2^ dollars and gin, 1| le college, in a very excel- near Green- )lan of that of levolent insti- lous harbour, ir, and being lecessarily al- iinn a halfpenny. .Ways command a large share of the foreign trade of the country ; ^land, having the command of Hudson's River, navigable with its f iiranches upwards of 200 miles, and the East River, with Long Is^ land Sound, it has a great share of the internal trade of Jersey, of ^Vermont, of Connecticut, of Rhode Island, and of MassachusetU * besides the whole of the fertile interior country, which, on the other iiand, furnishes every kind of produce and provisions by an eai^ iJ*»rater carriage, and at a reasonable rate. I The exports frofti New York amounted, in 1805, to 23,582,252 ■dollars, of which 15,484,883 dollars was foreign produce. The imports probably amount to upwards of 25,000,000 ; but it is to be observed that New York exports and imports a great portion of the commodities of other states. The situation of New York I should reckon very healthy ; yet it is sometimes dreadfully afflicted with sickness ; which circumstanco, 1 am rather inclined to think, arises from a defect in the police, which does not seem to be conducted in a manner becoming the wealth and splendour of this fine city. The buildings are, in many places, too crowded : many of the wharves are ill constructed, and some of the docks project into the city, especially from the £^st ri* ver, to the great annoyance of the inhabitants. The common sew- ers are incomplete, and there is no supply of ire^ water to sweeten and purify the streets ; but, beyond all, they have adopted the sys- tem of sinking nectissaries, which accumulates such a Collection of latent filth, that the steams of it are sometimes perceptible at two miles distance. I soon got well acquainted with New York, and was much pleas- ed with the affability and polite deportment of the inhabitants. The gentlemen whom I had occasion to see were mostly merchants, who are distinguished as men of business ; and generally so well acquainted with the nature of their OMni trade^ that they can tell the value pf a piece of goods almost as correctly as a Manchester or Glasgow manu&cturer. The feipale society are poliiShed and well bred ; they have not, generally speaking, that florid glow of health for which the Scottish ladies a^e distinguished ; but they are, I think, fully as handsome in their persons and featui'ed. I heiird but little politics among those with whom I Ossocittted ; but I observed a good deal in the newspapers, and tW6 of them were very coatfle and scurrilous. They were on dif&i^irit side* of the political queKion, of course, and lubltitutsd abtnite language 60 TRAVELS IN ll'iJ Y ;■ ft' and personal declamation fur reasoning. When a person looks in- to n newspaper, it is to sec the news ut* the day, of which there is gc> ncrally a suinniury in the leading paragraph ; but| contrary to every thing I had ever men before, one of these papers beg.\n by abusing n cotemporary, and the other returned the compliment, with inte- rest. I notice this circumstance because it made a forcible imprcs- «ion upon me, and because similar circumstances are often resorted to in Britain, to represent the free press in America as in the last stage of depravity. A free press is a great national blessing ; but, like the best medicines, it becomes a most deadly poison by abusing it An editor of a public paper assumes a most important station in society ; his seiitiments spreod fur, and have a great influence up. on the public mind; he is responsible for every word he publishes; and it is not enough that he adhere to truth himself; he is bound to take care that none other publish falsehood through the medium of his paper : a regard to the public good also requires that truth should be promulgated in decent language ; and nothing should be introduced into a public paper, with which the public have nothing to do. Whenever the personal feelings of the editor have a tendency to violate this rule, they should be immolated on the altar of public decorum. Party politics is here as well as in Britain, a noisy subject ; and the question between the parties not being well defined, it is diiRcult to understand it. From the best account of it which I could pro- cure, the schism seems to have taken place about the time of the a- doption of the federal constitution, which gave rise to very animat- ed discussions, in ^hich those who were in favour of it were styled federalists, apd those opposed to it anttjederalists. It now receives the approbation of the whole community ; but the distinction of parties continues, und^r the names o^ federalists and democrats. They equally lay claim to the title oi republicans, and are often styled^t^- deral republicans and democratic republicans. It was in vain that I looked for s^ satisfactory account of the matter in the New York pa* pers which I had ap opportunity of seeing : but I observed in pne of them that the federalists were styled the disciples of Washington, l^nd the democrats the supporters of Jefferson. I thought I would discover the difference in the declared opinions of these two emi- nent charagters. I accordingly turned to general Washington's Fare>vel Address, and Mr. Jefferson's Inaugural Speech ; but the sentiments inculcated in these two papers appeared to me to be pre- '> cl 1 *l t' "i ^;w^' --.A^ i ■| )cr8on lookfi in* liich there is gc- )ntrary to every l.\n hy nbusing lent, with inte- Ibrciblo imprcs- c often resorted ns in the last blessing ; but, Ison by abusing portant station at influence up. 'd he publishes ; If; he is bound gh the nicUium requires that i ; and nothing ich the public r» of the editor i imuiolated on y subject ; and d, it is difRcult :h I could pro- time of the a- very animat- it were styled |t now receives distinction of wcrais. They >ften styled^- in vain that I lew York pa- ervedin pn^ Washington, |ught I would esc two emi- ashingtQn's ;h; but the le to be pre- ■ri. .1 NEW YORK. W dsely the same. The one recognizes popular government, and re- commends union, obedience to the laws, religion and morality, and to keep party spirit within bounds; the other declares that the will of the majority, legally expressed, is the law of the land; and re^ commends harmony and affection, with the free exercise of reason, of religion and of the press. Professing to act under these senti- ments, it is somewhat singular that there should be a difference at all ; but, to use the words of one of the characters above alluded to, ♦' every difference of opinion is not a difference of princiryle," and the political question may be considered as essentieJiy diffe.v^nt fiv-'m what it is in Britain. In Britain the questicn bttweeu 'chtg . nd toty is whether the controuling power shall b< jMkii w. th* p,,ople or in the crtmn. In America it is whether it shall lic vt^it ed in tliis or that set of men. Having merely glanced at this subject, I shu'I dism'-.s \i w>h a fervent wish for the total extinction of all p«'it spir'l, thu more to be desired in the United States,, as party diiilinctior.-. urc' apt to divert the public attention from objcc'^s cf iv„>l *)rav;U« i«l utility, while the difference in principle among gooci way is i«o small, that they should be f* all republicans, uli feder:li?to,'* On the 20th of August, I was introduced to vha( ..dcbra'.ed character, Tliomas Paine. He was confined iu New Yark hy t; hurt in his leg, and lived in the house of a Mva, Palinci, widow of the late deistical minister in that city, llie it^^:ntl«nrian vbf* introduced me was well acquainted with Mr. Paine, and J! ^at prlitely received as his friend. Paine was sitting in a sir.ail ar partment, with a number of newspapers before Lim ; &)i'l he gave one of them to my friend to read some paragraphs relat'v e to the negociations for peace between Britain and Frunce. In x]\e liiean time, I cast my eyes across the table, aui^y from some MSS. which lay on it, judged he was writing oa tho siibject of religion. The title of one of the pieces was tingula:-, namely, " It is I, Thomas Paine, that speaketl." I could only see a word here and there of what followed ; but, by the scope of it, I presumed that it was som< sort of religious creed. I was afterwards informed that it really was so, and Aat he intended it should be published after his death. When my friend bad finished reading the news- papers, thqr entered into conversation, in which Paine declared decidedly, that there would be no peace. ** The war," he ob- served, « must inevitiibly go on till the govenunent of England 6S TRAVELS IM %<■:■). fiell ; for it was radically and systematically wrong, and altogether jncompatible with the present state of society." I reminded him, that there was now a whig administration in Britain, who would institute a reform of abuses, cause the constitution to be acted on in its purity, and probably repair all the mischief that had been done by the tory administrations. He shook his head, and said that he knew the English government well, and was convinced that no man, or set of men, would ever be able to reform it ; the system was wrong, and it never wou}d be set right without a revolv'ition, which was us certain as fate, and at no great distance in time. Finding we differed on this point, I changed the subject, and took notice of a little essay which he had written on the yellow fever, which had been published in the newspapers, and attracted 4»nsiderable attention in the southern states. He seemed to be Incased with this, and, in the course of conversation on the sub- ject, discovered a good deal of that literary vanity of which he has been accused; but it must be acknowledged, that this little piece contains much valuable information. The arguments are ingeniou6~-to me, indeed, quite convincing ; and I have conversed with some of Mr. Paine's most strenuous political opponents, whp have viewed them in the sani^ light. Paine is a slender man, rather tall, and has an uncommonly penetrat^g eye. His face is subject to a scorbutic eruption, which circumstance has probably contributed to prc^agate the report, that he is habitually intemperate ; but I was informed by those who knew him well, that it is not correct. When he meets with a person of his own way of thinking, he will frequent- ly indulge himself to a late hour over a gla«s of toddy ; but sel- 4om carries it to excess. His income is but smal^ ; but he is in Independent circamsttiinces, having a tract of land, for which he could obtain ten thousand dollars. He is pleasant in conversa- tion, and speaks very much in th« style he writes, quite clear pud perspicuous. The following table will afford an idea of the sommer wea-. iher at New York, August 4. Clear, temperate. Aug. 8. Cltbr, do. 5. Rain, do. 9. Do. temperate, 6. Clear, watin* ' :' lo. Cloudy, do. '--'-- 7. Do* do. .^ ^^^ ^'r- U, CkMv .-- dir'^ M MEW YORK. m and altogether reminded him, in, who would ) be acted on that had been lead, and said was convinced to reform it; ight without a great distance le subject, and on the yellow , and attracted seemed to be on on the sub- y of which he that this little arguments are have conversed pponents, whp 1 uncommonly utic eruption, rc^agate the informed by When he will frequents dy; but sel< but he is in for which he \n cmiversa- quite clear iBomtner wea- do. |tetti))erat«t do. do. ^ I Jiug. 12. Cloudy, do. Aug. 2a Cleans plMMmt 13. Do. do. 14. Do. do. "x^i- 15. Showers, do. 16. Rain, sultry*. 17. Cloudy, do. 18. Clear, pleasant, 19. Do. do» .'*.'' f j' r J)«'l t. «i-k»* 21. Do. wann. : 22. Clott(fy> snkry* 2S. Rain, thunder^ warm* 24* Rain^ stonay, cold* 25. Clear, wann, 26. Do. do.. CHAPTER IX. Long Island Sound, — Newport, — Prooidtnet. AVING judged it expedient to take a journey into the Ncvr England states, I engaged a passage on board a Providence packet, and we set sail, at four o'clock, on the afternoon of the 26th of August. Our company consisted of a gentleman and three ladies from New York, two ladies and two children from Newport, a baptist preacher, a printer, and a major. I soon found out that the mt^or would be an excellent travelling companion, and resolved to humour him accordingly. He was very frank and familiar, and we soon became acquainted ; and on exchang- ing civilities, we found we would have occasion to be together for some time, which we resolved to improve to the best advantage; and we extracted not a little amusement from our. adventures, as will be seen anon. We proceeded up East River with a fine easy breeze, and had a delightful view of the banks on each side^ which are well .wooded, and adorned with many elegant villas, belonging chiefly to the merchants of New York. Six miles above New York, -ve sed Hell Gate, a very singular passage, about 300 or 400 yardsi in breadth, having a ledge of sunken rocks across it in an angu- ar direction, which occasions many whirlpools and cross currents n the water. These, at certain periods of the tide, make a dread- I noise, and render a passage impracticable; but at other times e water is smooth, and a passage easy. Soon after passing Hell Gate, we entered Long Island sound, iid had a fine view. Our company seemed social, and disposed *" It WRR only a pun of thocc dajit ninrkod snlUy, that I felt cUtMgrocMbly wann. .(•Mt 64 TRAVELS IN to be happy. The weather was agreeably warm, And we enjoyed ourselves on deck, where we had a number of fine songs, in which a Newport young lady excelled. Towards evening the breeze died away, when we were about 30 miles from New York, August 27« Early this morning we took a fair wind, whiqh carried us along at the rate of nine or ten miles an hour. ' The sound widens gradually to the middle, where it is about 25 miles broad; but the day being clear, we had a fine view on both sides of it. On the Connecticut side, the coast is lined with ele- gant towns, adorned with spires, and the view is very pleasing. Our ladies continued to charm us with their songs, and the major and I were much diverted by a singular courtship, in which the chief agent was a book. We observed, that our printer paid a good deal of attention to the Newport young lady, the sweet singer. Taking advantage of her taste for poetry and music, he produced his book, and read a sentimental effusion to the lady ; and while she was expressing her approbation, he let his hand touch hers, as if by accident. They turned over to another piece, and tne lady read on, till she came to a passage with which she seemed to be quite delighted. " Is'nt that beautiful ?" said the gentleman, laying his hand gentfy upon hers. " Beautiful, indeed," exclaimed the lady. •* I'll show you something,*' said he, "still more forcible upon the :>ame subject: I beg you'll be seated, ma'am." The lady was seated. He deliver* ed the book with one hand, and, laying hold of hers with the other, sat down beside her. — She read on. «* This is really beau- tiful," said she. ** Most beautiful, indeed," said he, and seized this opportunity to put one hand gently round her waist, while he helped her to hold the book with the other. Thus they went on from piece to piece, and from sentiment to sentiment, to the great vex» ation of the major, who was quite chagrined that the printer should engross the lady wholly to himself, and deprive the com- ' pany of her agreeable songs and conversation. About four o'clock in the afternoon, we approached the head of the sound ; where, being near the Connecticut side, we had a fine view of New London, appropriately situated on a river called the Thames. Nearly opposite to New London, we passed between two very small islands, within a few yards of each other, and entered a curious passage, called the Race, being the outlet of the sound. There is a chain of islands, which runs across this outlet in an an* nd we enjoyed ongs, in which ng the breeze V York. ir windy which an hour. - The about 25 miles view on both lined with ele- very pleasing. and the major I) in which the of attention to \g advantage of x>k, and read a I expressing her ccident. They I, till she came ghted. « Is'nt nd gently upon I'll show you >ame subject: id. He deliver- hers with the s really beau- he, and seized mst, while he r went on from the great vex- at the printer mve the corn- ed the head of we had a fine iver called the !d between two ', and entered of the sound, utlet in an an- *< LON(S ISLAND SOUND. 65 ulnr direction, and they consequently confine the water into narrow channels, so that the tide, at ebbing and flowing, runs with great violence. We passed it with a light breeze, and the current ft against us, and consequently we made but little progress ; but we %ot out of it, and all danger, before cifirk, and proceeded with a ■light breeze towards Newport, now about 30 miles distant. On i)ur arrival at the entrance of Narraganset bay, I observed a great * -^nantity of shipping, principally small craft, and was anxious to sec ithis inlet, being esteemed one of the best in America ; but it was '■'■: now 1 1 o'clock, and too dark to make observations, so I retired to ' bed ; and in the morning, found the vessel at the wharf in Newport. Newport is situated on the south-west point of Rhode Island, i in latitude 41® 29'. It extends about a mile from north to south, ^ along Narraganset bay, and is about one third of a mile in breadth, rising, as it proceeds f'-om the water, by a considerable • ascent. The streets cross one another at right angles, and are alt well paved. The number of inhabitants, by the census of 1800, was 6739, and the number of houses is about 1100, chiefly built " of wood, and painted white. The public buildings are a State- House, Academy,, Public Library, lour baptist churches, two for congrcgationalists, and one each for episcopalians, qnakers, Mo- ravians, and Jews. The situation of this city is beautiful, and the salubrity of the climate is proverbial, in consequence of which it becomes a great resort for strangers, particularly from thesouthein states, during the summer season. It is also noted for the excellent supply of provisions in its market, particularly of fish, of which there is said to be SO or 60 different kinds. The packets which ply be- tween this place and New York, and Providence, are of great service to the city, and to the public. They are generally under excellent regulations, and afford better accommodations and travel- ling at a cheaper rate than is to be found in most places of the world. The distance from hence to New York is about 200 miles, which we sailed in little more than 30 hours ; and the fare, in- cluding bed and provisions, was only nine dollars. From hence to Providence, 80 miles, it is one dollar. Neport is a favourable situation for commerce, and has one of the most safe and commodious harbours in the world. On the op- posite side of the harbour is Goat Island, on which there is a fort and military station. The trade of Newport is principally in ship- I 1 to " '■'■ I 66 TIAVELS IN ping ; and there is a manufactory of cotton, and one of duck« both of which are said to be in a thriving state. I took a walk round the town with the major, who was well ac- quainted with it ; and from the heights above it we had some fine yicwB. After breakfast, we went on board the packet for Provi- dence. At half past 9 o'clock we got under weigh, but the wind being right ahead, we made little progress. The day however was fine, and the company agreeable ; and, being in no particular hurry, we enjoyed ourselves \evy much, sailing up this delightful bay. "We had all our former company, except one of the ladies of New- port and her children. T!:.^ other had also intended to stop at Newport ; but our printer had exerted his eloquence so effectually as to induce her to go to Providence, to see a friend, with whom she was to live during commencement. Having heard this term fre- quently made use of, I inquired into the meaning of it ; and was informed that it is a public day, held at college, previous to the vacation, on which the students deliver their orations and receive their degrees ; and it concludes with a ball, to which all the young ladies, for many miles round, are invited. Atter proceeding a few miles, I found we had a state-room full of ladies, in addition to our former company. One of them came out to take the air. She was a tall elegant ghrl, about ] 6 years of age, with a complexion and features uncommonly beautiful. The ma- jor and I guessed that she would immediately attract our printer'» notice. We guessed right, for while we were yet speaking, we saw him pull out his book, and make up to her. She was standing beside the object of his first regard, whom he now turned bis back upon ; and, under pretence of showing the fine sentimental pieces in the book, went through the whole ceremony of touching hands, and so forth. Our major was astonished, and wondered what could be about '.he man that he charmed the ladies so ; for he was by no means handsome. One of our company remarked that there was an herb in nature, called valerian, which had the re- markable quality of charming the feline tribe ; and perhaps there night be some herb which produced a similar effect upon young ivomcn, and that tlie printer must be in possession of it ; for he could account for his remarkable success in no other way. The major sWore (he was a sad swearer) that this must be the true so- lution, and wondered if any such herbs were to be found in Geor- one of ducki tio was well ac- hat! some fine ;ket for Provi- the wind being ivever was fine, rticular hurry, ghtful bay. We ladies of New- led to stop at e so effectually id, with whom d this term fre- of it ; and was previous to the )ns and receive h all the young RHODE ISLAND. ^ gia, as he would purchase them at any expense. But it appeared ithat this theory codld not be altogether correct, for a small quan- tity of valerian will charm as many cats as a room will hold, where- as it appeared the printer could only charm one young lady at a ^ time. The Newport lady, perceiving his attention to the stranger, I withdrew from him, and we enjoyed part of her agreeable conver- f iation, during the remainder of tlie passage. He was but short- -sighted in the exchange; for this lady, though not so beautiful as I the other, had a great deal more animation, which rendered her more interesting; and she was possessed of a great deal of good ■i. sense. We hud a number of fine songs and stories, and the day passed away most agreeably. Narraganset bay, up which we sailed, is 33 miles in length, from south to north, and, towards Newport, about 12 miles in breadth, including tiie islands which it embosoms, of which the principal are, Rhode Island, Canonicut, Prudence, Patience, Hope, Dyer's, and Hog Island, It receives the waters of Pro- vidence, Taunton, and Patuxet rivers ; and contains five harbours, besides those of Newport and Providence. Its banks are clad with settlements, and there are a number of pretty little towns, the view of which, from the water, has a fine effect. At 6 o'clock we reached Providence, where we saw a good deal of shipping, and I was surprised to find a vessel there of upwards of 900 tons burden. I was informed that she was in the East India trade, of which there is a considel'able share at this port, and that there would be a sale of India goods next day. , " The major, who had often travelled this way, conducted me to a boarding-house, where having engaged lodgings, we went out to take a view of the town, with which he was well acquainted. The ground rises to a considerable elevation above the town, from whence we had a fine view ; a.. J we returned to our lodgings high- ly pleased with the excursions of this day. Providence is beautifully situated on the head of Narraganset bay, and is divided into two parts by the Providence river, over which there is a good bridge, with a draw in it, to allow vessels to pass. The west side of the town is low, but the east side rises, by a rapid ascent, to a considerable elevation. The number of in- habitants, in 1800, was 7614, and they arc rapidly increasing.* The public buildings are, a court-house, market-house, a public * By the cenaus of }810, the; Are 10,071. 68 TRAVELS IN MiiiliJ ;J< , ' school-bouse, a baptist meeting-house, a quuker meeting-house, and three congregational churches. There is an extensive college situateil on the hill, and commanding a fine view of the town, bay, shipping and country for many miles round. The building is of brick, with a slated roof, 150 feet long, 46 wide, and four stories high; and contains lodgings for upwards of 100 students. It has a valuable philosophical apparatus, and a library containing upwards of 3000 volumes. : i ■. , Providence has a pretty extensive shipping trade, and several manufactories are c&tablised in the town and neighbourhood, which are said to be in a thriving state. Being now about to leave this little interesting state, I shall de- vote a chapter exclusively to a geographical description of it, which plan I intend to follow in the course of my travels. For the necessary information on this branch, as well as the description of cities, towns, and rivers, I must be indebted, in a great measure, to the researches of those who have gone before mo ; but I shall arrange the subject on a new plan, which may admit of considerable variety, and have the beneficial effect of maturing pay own judg- ment on American geography. To American manners and education I shall pay a little extra attention, because I begin to find that I have been labouring under considerable prejudices concerning them. It is very com- mon for the natives of Britain to set up their own country as the model of all perfection, and to doubt the existence of equal ad- vantages any where else ; and to no country has that doubt been more extended than to the Unitetl States of America. It is real- ly surprising to see, that notwithstanding the great intercourse between the two countries, there should be so much ignorance, or rather misinformation, in Britain, regarding America ; and it is to this circumstance that I attribute my own prejudices; for as to what are called natural prejudices, I disclaim them. I have no wish to see things otherwise than as they are; and I am very glad to observe that this people have a polish of manners, and speak a style of language, which must be the result of education, at least equal to what exists in Britain. And this does not appear to be confined to the sea-port towns : the country, in this quarter, is thickly settled with a civilized, industrious people. •r. ■ ;!ii 69 necting-house, tensive collcfie "he town, bay, building is of ind tour stories lents. It has a ining upwards ', and several eiglibourhood, ite, I shall de- cription of it, travels. For the description great measure, ; but I shall of considerable ^ly own judg- ■•',r^.-'-'T "^-'-I''. %»•• IS very com- :ountry as the of equal ad- it doubt been ;a. It is real- it intercourse IIQODB ISLAND. CHAPTER X. Rhode Island. HODE ISLAND is situated between 41'' 22' and 42'* north Uitude, and S** and 5° 50' east longitude*, being 45 miles in ^ngth, and 43 in breadth, and contains 1548 square miles, or f 90, 720 acres. The face of the country is agreeably uneven, some places be- ig hilly, but not mountainous. Narraganset, already mentioned, is the principal bay. The rivers all flow into this bay, and have jeen already noticed. Iron ore is found in great plenty, and the state abounds with limestone and marble. Some copper ore and load-stone have al- so been found ; and there are several mineral springs, but of no great importance. • The soil is various, and a great part of it good, though better adapted for grazing than for grain. ITie climate is salubrious and healthy ; but the winters are |£ometimes long and severe, commencing in November, and ending March or April. There is a very short spring, but the sum- ner and autumn are delightful. Volney remarks on this subject, I** Were I obliged to select the most favourable spot in America fas the place of my abode, my choice would fall upon the southern [point of Rhode Island." The first settlement was commenced in the year 1636, by Roger [Williams, a banished clergyman from Massacbussets ; and the i state was chiefly peopled by emigrants from that country. In 1663, [a charter was obtained from Charles II, which is the basis of [die present constitution. The country suffered greatly during the [revolutionary war ; but it is now in a thriving state, increasing tin population and wealth. It sends two senators and two repre- sentatives to congressf. The state is divided into five counties and thirty townships, and * I have adopted the American mode of making Washington the first meridian. : It accords best with the map, and is calculated to give a better idea of the relative si* [tuation of the different places in the country than the meridian of London. f Representatives are sent to congress according to the population, one for every ' 35,000, Each state sends two senators. '?'i,,;? -^fi ;-:i- 'tX' TRAVELS IN the inhabitants amount to 69,122% including S80 slaves; being about 45 to the sijuare mile. The country is well improved, abounding with towns, villages, and farm-houses. The chief towns are Providence and Newport, already mentioned. The others are. South Kingston^ situated on the west side of Narraganset Bay, nearly opposite Newport, and contains 3000 inhabitants. Bristol is pleasantly situated on the bay, about half way between Providence and Newport, and con- tains 1678 inhabitants. It has a little shipping trade. Warren is a flourishing little town, containing about 1600 inhabitants. It is on the west side of the bay, on the Warren River, and car- ries on a brisk coasting and foreign trade. Little Compton, East Greenwich, and Compton, are also growing towns. The state is supplied with good roads and bridges, some of which have been constructed on an ingenious plan, and at great expense. No canals have yet been made, but several are projected. The farms are generally well cultivated, and produce Indian corn, rye, barley, oats, wheat, (though not enough for home consump- tion,) fruits in great abundance, and culinary vegetables. Butter, cheese, and cyder, are made in great quantities, and of a sHperior quality. * The manufactures are cotton and linen goods, bar and sheet iron, steel, nails, anchors and other iron work for shipping, saiU doth, paper, rum, &c. The cotton manufacture is extending, and I was informed that some of those engaged in it were doing well ; but it is yet in its infancy, and, being subject to a compe- tition with the organized manufactures of Britain, it must be at- tended with a considerable degree of inconvenience, and perhaps some risk. ~ This state is very favourably situated for commerce, of which it has a large share. The exports are grain, flaxseed, lumber, horses, cattle, beef, pork, fish, poultry, onions, butter, cheesei spirits, and cotton and linen goods. The value of exports is a- bout 1,000,000 dollars annually. The imports are European and India manufactures, West India produce, and logwood. "Pis inhabitanu of the country are generally prc^rietors of * the farms they cultivate, and, having no landlord to make their boo to, nprrentto pay, they must be independent, The inhabi- * The nuBober of inhabitanu is by the census of I SOD, unless where otherwise Mpregsed. MASSACHUSETTS. 71 tants of the towns are merchants, manufacturers, mechanics, sea- men, and fishermen. The lands are not entailed, and hence there is no aristocracy ; but independence is easily attained by labour. There is no distinction made on account of religious opinions ; but every man worships God in any way his conscience dictates, without interfering with his civil rights. There are seve- ral benevolent and useful societies in the state, among which may be noticed one " for the abolition of the slave-trade, and for the improvement of the African race." The state of education is said to b« considerably behind that of the other New England states but is improving. The chief seminary is the college at Provi- dence, already mentioned ; and there is an academy at Newport, under good regulations, besides various seminaries throughout the state. , , . , The state legislature consists of a governor, deputy governor, ten senators, and a representative from each township. Thej are chosen by the pepole twice every year, and they bold two sessions annually. where otherwise CHAPTER XI. T .- Providence^ — Dedhatn, — Boston. ; , . ■..■., J/ HERE is a rule in travelling this road, that if, on the arrival of the packet, there are three passengers going on to Boston, the stage is bound to go with them at any hour. There were four of us who agreed to go at 5 o'clock in the morning, and we constituted the major master of the ceremonies, to make the necessary arrange- ment with the landlord. We accordingly rose very early to take our places ; but, lo ! after waiting a full half hour, there was no stage to be seen, and the major began to suspect the landlord of insince* rity. By*and-by he lost all patience, and began to swear most bit- terly ; he went in search of the landlord, but there was no landlord to be seen ; nor, mdeed, any of the domestics. However, it was impossible that they could be lon^ proof against the effect of the major's lungs, for he bellowed forth the most dreadful oaths and imprecations that I ever heard, and soon alan&ed the servants; but they could not satisfy the major, who " Roar'd a horrid murder sbouV In dreadfu' dcepenitioii" 'iri'a ' 'l!'. i%.| V W^ 72 tRAVKLS lH for the landlord, who at last made his appearance ; and the majoi', with a thundering menace, demanded where the stage was. He rubbed his eyes, and was going to make a reply, but he had not time ; for the major held forth fully half on hour in a strain of elo- quence peculir to gentlemen of the sea or the sword, and which could hardly find a parallel in the curses wherewithal Dr. Slop cursed Obadiah, on the day in which he tied the knots on his instro- ment-bag. At last the storm abated a little, and the landlord got leave to speak ; but he only made matters worse, for he blundered out that the stage would not go before eight o'clock. The land* lord had, in truth, attempted to jockey us. An additional compa- ny was to go at eight o'clock ; and he and the stage owner, between whom there was a collusion, thought that, notwithstanding the a- greement with us, the stage could easily accommodate both ; and a few hours, in point of time, was immaterial. But, oh I for the pencil of a Hogarth, to dlelineate the features of the major when this fact came out. Mercy on us ! how he did fume and rage, and stamp and curse ! At last he made a spring toward the landlord, and, shaking his cane over his head, swore if he did not bring the stage immediately, he would have satisfaction out of his bones. The landlord get alarmed, and ran as if the devil had been in pursuit of him, and the major, having spent his rage, stood mute. The land- lord had not been long gone before a gentleman came up to the house and asked if we were going to Boston, and, on being answer- ed in the affirmative, he told us that he had a new stage, which Iio would start instantly, provided there were three passengers. This was most delightful news for the major, who told him we would go, pro- vided the stage was brought in ten minutes, so as to disappoint the landlord. An elegant new stage, with good horses, drew up before the door in a few minutes, and, having paid a very moderate bill to the landlady, who, the major observed, was the better man of the twOf we got into tlie carriage. While we were seating ourselves, up came the landlord with the other stage, and the major detained us a few minutes to get a parting word with him. " Now, you ras- cal," says he, " you thought to play a Yankee trick upon me ; but this is diamond cut diamond for you 1" The landlord began to enter a complaint against us for leaving the stage ; but he was stop- ped short by the major, who exclaimed, " Oh ! you rascal, I de- light in disappointing yon : I would not for a thousand— ^ay, not for ten thousand dollars have wanted this satisfaction. I know money m ; and ttie raajof, stage was. He but he had not 1 a strain of elo- rord, and which withal Dr. Slop dts on his instrn* he landlord got }r he blundered k. The land- ditional compa- owner, between [Standing the a- >date both ; and ut, oh ! for the major when this rage, and stamp ) landlord, and, bring the stage lis bones. The (en in pursuit ot Jte. The land- ime up to the 1 beinjj answer- stage, which he ngers. This was would go, pro- disappoint the drew up before y moderate bill ?tter man qftk iting ourselves, major detained Now, you ras- upon me ; but |^ lord began to t; it he was stop- u rascal, I de- isand— ^ay, not I know monev MASSACHUSETTS. 73 will procure any thing ; and I have got more than ever you saw, you vagabond." So saying, he ordered the driver to proceed. We travelled but slowly, owing to the road being very bad. We learned that the people of Maasnchusettii had ofl'ered to extend the turnpike to Providence, but the peopleof this state would not agree to it ; and thus the road reiuainetl almost impasioiblc. The niorn- \v\n was hazy, so that we could see but little of the country ; but it api)e<'irt'd to be indifferently cultivated. We saw great quantities of fruit by the way side; and several waggons, loaded with apples, were on their way to Providence. The salutation which the major gave the landlord occasioned a gootl deal of merriment ; and one of our company observed that he could put him upon a plan of swearing by rule, by which means he could save him a great deal of trouble, and wear and tear of con- science, in coining oaths. He accordingly produced the anathema of Ernulphus, recorded i\\ the Life and Opinions of Tristram Shan- dy, which he read aloud, to the great astonishment of the major, and diversion of the company. , About four miles from Providence, we passed Patucket river, and entered into the state of Massachusetts. Here there are very handsome falls, and a little town called Patucket, in which there is a thriving manufactory of cotton yarn and goods. The spin- ning works are said to be on the most approved principle, and there are several looms going by machinery. We were informed that the cotton trade had been introduced here by a gentleman from England, a pupil of Arkwright, who had been very successful; that other people were following his example, and that this branch was likely to increase to a great extent in this district. I doubted the power of the people here to become competitors with the manufacturers of England ; but I learned that they confine themselves pretty much to coarse goods, and articles of the first necessity ; and on turning the whole information, relative to tlie subject, in my mind, I found that they had such a number of circumstances in their favour, as were sufficient to balance, if not to overcome, the disadvantages, , The principal disadvantage is the high wages which must be paid to the workmen ; and it is supposed that tlie people have a pre-/^ deliction for agriculture, which has a tendency to prevent them from settling at sedentary employments. This lasf circumstance • k the popular opinion in Britain, and I was impressed with its 10 74 TIAVBUI IN lirf:|. ,.['*' reality myself; but after hiking round me in thu country, I ra- ther think that it is more tpccious than solid ; for I find there is no want of masons carpenters, smiths, tanners, shoemakers, hat- ters, taylors, and other mechanics, none of which arc agricultural employments. All these and other branches are organized and practised with persevering industry, because the profits resulting from them are equal to those resulting from agriculture; and ether branches will be subject to the same rule. In every com- munity there are a great number of the members who are better adapted for labour in the house than in the field ; and the force of this remark is peculiarly applicable to the cotton trade, in which a large portion of the labour is performed by machinery, and the remainder principally by women and children. But all Ubonr is better paid for in America than in Britain. The pro- portion is probably two to one; and if the cotton trade will afford this advance to the labourers, it will bear a competition with similar manufacturers of Britain, and prosp«* — not else. The most striking circumstance in favour of the cotton manu- factures is the cheapness of the raw material, which is the pro- duce of the United States. They manufacture here principally upland cotton, and the price, including carriage to this place, is abont 20 cents per pound*; being about 12 cents lower than tliey can possibly have it in Britain. The next circumstance is the heavy charges to which British manufactured goods are subject before they come into the American market. These may be reckoned at least equal to 45 per cent. : namely, carrioge, in- surance, and shipping charges, 5 per cent; American duties, 16^ per cent.; importer's profit, 10 per cent$ American merdumt's profit and contingencies, 14| per cent. ^«ow, suppose lOOlbs of cotton to be mann&cturod into cloth, of a fabric that will sell at about one shilling sterling in Britain, the number of yards will be about 300 ; and by producing this m the American marked subject to these different charges, it will afford a data whereby we may calculate the price that can be af- forded to the manufacturer in America ; and from thence we may determine the probable increase of the cotton manufiicture. It is to be observed that the demand for cotton goods in America is immense, and there is no material competition, txcej^t with Brit- ish manu&cturers. * It is now (1812) only 13 or }3 cents. MASSACiirtim. W lOOlbt of eotUm purchaied in the southern states of America, at 18 cts. is in sterling 4 4 10 Shipping charges, freight, and merchant's profit^ 3(L per pound 15 British duty . • .' 10 8 Nearly 16d. per pound SOO yards of cloth at Is« per yard, is Leaving for the various branches of manufacture This cloth sent to America, costs in Britain Cluurgcs before enumerated, 45 per cent. CM ',^"lt £ 6 12 8 £\$ £ 8 7 i £\S £ 6 15 £2\ 15 Suppose the same fabric manufactured in America. The cotton cobts, in the southern states, at 18 cents per pound Carriage and charges, at 2 cents per pound dol. 18 Price of raw material dol. 20 Value of umilar cloth imported from Britain £21 15, is ' ; 96 57 Leaving for the varioifs branches of manu&ctnre dolf 76 57 Or sterling j£ 16 4 7 Being nearly double the price paid to the British manufacturer. It will be observed too, by this calculation, that the cotton ia taken at its extreme height, and for every cent that it falls, tho proportional advantage to the American manufacturer is increat* ed; because a great part of the difference consists in duties and charges, which are not materially affected by the fidl. It is my (pinion, upon the whol^ that the cotton manufacture will increase in America ; and that it holds out a very good in- ducement for men of ci^ital to embark in it. We were now in the state of Massachusetts and had an ex* <»Uent turnpike road, but being recently cut through a new coun- tiy, we had no great variety of scenery. The face of the country was agreeably uneven, but the land rather poor and stony. b m -i-i f}] r > tv\\ -M 76 TR VELS Ui Twelve miles from Providence we stopped at the house of a colonel Hutch, the proprietor of the Ktnge, who was along witli us. The house is new and commodious, and we got an excellent breakfast, charge 50 cents. From thence we travelled 22 miles to Dedham. The country, r.om the reason already stated, is but thinly settled by the road- side. . The face of the country is agreeably uneven, and we had many hne distant views. The road-side abounds with fruit, of which the traveller may gather as much as he pleases. Towards Dedham the country improves, and the inhabitants appeared healthy, and in comfortable circumstances. Dedham is a handsome little village, eleven miles from Boston, consisting of between 3 and 400 houses, and containing about 1500 inhabitants. The houses are mostly built of wood, and painted white. The public buildings are a court-house, three congregational churches, and an episcopal church. There arc several grist and saw-jnills in the neighbourhood ; and the inhabi- tants carry on a considerable manufacture of shoes and wire-work. . From thence to Boston, the road goes through a beautiful country, abounding with villas and well -cultivated farms, and at a distance to the eastward are high lands approaching nearly to mountains. AVhcrever I turned my eyes, I was delighted with the view ; and being, like the vicar of Wakefield, " an admirer of happy faces," I was amply gratified by the appearance of the inhabitants, who were cleanly, industrious, and contented. The female part of the community, in particular, appeared to great advantage, having a glow of health, an air of theerfulness, and a cleanliness of aspect, that I have not seen surpassed. . > ;' ^^, The country continued to improve as we proceeded towards Boston, in the immeiUate neighbourhood of which the buildings and pleasure-grounds are uncommonly elegant. We entered the town by tlie curious passage called the Neck, and drove up to the house of a Mr. Ch^pi)otin, in Summer-street, which we reached just in time for dinner. Qn entering the public room, I found about twenty gentlemen at the dinner-table, and I seated myself beside an elderly gentleman, in 9. strange dress, with a long beard, who I after- wards learned was the Tunisian ambassador. After dinner, I took a walk round the towr* with the major, vho was well acquainted with it ; called upon my fellow-passenger in the W^arrington, Mr. Ballard, who was glad to see me ; and spent the evening at the boarding-house, much pleased with the excursions of the day. w thi iid MASSACHUSETTS. 77 i /Wft/'tU^ ^■■' ,:■ i.'( ;l ..1 ■nV-lii'/.; .'i^/^l .i{ll.'i'>, ; <'.^.>< • r.:.^] OSTON is built on a peninsula, at the head of Massachusetts in north latitude 42° 23'. It is at one place two miles long, ut the broadest part is not quite half a mile. A great part of he town lies low along the bay ; but the ground rises to a coii- idcrable elevation in the middle, where the State- House is built, hich •'ivcs it a very handsome appearance at a distance. The own partakes of the nature of the old towns in England, and is rreffulurly built, many of the streets being crooked and narrow ; ut the more modern part is regular, and the streets broad and ell paved. The streets, lanes, and alleys amount to above 150; nd there are five public squares ; but none of them are of great Extent, except the Mall, which is a very elegant piece of public ground in front of the State-House. The number of dwelling-houses is above 3500, and, by the census of 1500, the inhabitants were 2'1<,937; from the increase that has since taken place, it is presumed that the number is now upwards of 30,000.* The greater part of the houses are built of brick, and many of them are spacious and elegant. The public buildings are the State-House, Court-House, Jail, Concert-Hall, Faneuil-Hall, Alms- House, Work- House, and Bridewell ; the Museum, Library, Theatre, and nine congregae tional, three episcopal, and two baptist churches, with one each for Roman catholics, inethodistSj and universalists. The public buildings are in general very handsome, and the greater part of the churches are ornamented with spires. _ ., , ,.^1 The markets of Boston are well supplied with every kind of country provisions, fruit, and fish. The prices are not materially different from those of New York. Flour is generally a little high- er ; but cod-fish, which is the universal Saturday dinner, is lower. Boston is well siii'ated for foreign commerce, of which it has a very large share. The harbour is spacious, and is capable of con- taining 500 sail of vesels. There are many wharfs constructed, of which the most remarkable is I^ig Wharfs extending into the bay upwards of 1700 feet* The number of vessels thfii enter aad cloor • By tke census of J 810, they were SJr.ZSO. I) i I" if :'!•' : ,J' 78 TRAVILS IN out annually w immense, carrying on a trade to Europe, the East and West Indies, and China, besides a very extensive coasting trade. The exports annually from this port probably amount to upwards of 8,000,000 dollars. The principal manufactures are of iron, leather, paper and glass, which are brought to great maturity, in all the various branches ; besides which, they have thriying ma< nufactories of hats, sail-cloth, cards, soap and candles, refined su> gar, spermaceti, ashes, &c. There are ten distilleries, two brew- eries, eight sugar-houses, and several rope-walks in and about the town ; but one of the most important branches is ship-building, and the Bostonians seem generally more attached to the shipping trade than any other branch. There are in Boston three incorpo- rated banks, besides a branch of the United States' Bank, whose joint capitals amount to upwards of 3,000,000 dollars, and there are three or four insurance-offices, with capitals of 3 or 400}000 dollars each^ There are a number of public societies in Boston, among which may be mentioned the American Academy of Arts and Sciences* Massachusetts Historical Society, Boston Library Society,* Agri- cultural Society, Mechanic Society, Marine Society, Charitable Fire Society, Humane Society, Medical Society, Dispensary, and the Female Asylum. Public education is on an excellent footing; there are eight or nine public schools, supported at the expense ol the town, which are accessible to all the members of the commu- nity, free of expense: they are managed by a committee of twen- ty-one gentlemen, chosen annually, and are under good regula- tions. Besides these, there a number of private seminaries, at which all the various branches of education are taught; and upon the whole, I believe Boston may challenge a competition on this branch with any city in Europe, Edinburgh, in Scotland, perhaps, excepted. The fruits of this attention to the improvement of the mind, and the cultivation of the benevolent affections, are very apparent in the deportment of the citizens of Boston, who are intelligent, sober, and industrious ; and, though much attached to the subject of re* ligion, they are more liberal, generally speaking, than any people I have yet been amongst. The ladies of Boston are generally hand? ,F"i * Ay^ Aihenasum has since been established, and in probably the niMt ckgant liurarf Institution in America. urope, the East lensive coasting ably amount to lufactures are of great maturity, ve thriving ma- les, refined su> ries, two brew- n and about the s ship-building, to the shipping I three incorpo- ?s' Bank) whose lars, and there r 3 or 400,000 I, among which i and Sciences^ Society,* Agri- iety, Charitable Dispensary, and Lcellent footing; the expense ol of the commu- imittee of twen- good regula» seminaries, at ht; and upon petition on this and) perhaps, the mind, an4 apparent in the illigent, sobef} subject of re» lan any people enerally hand? lOSt elegant literary MASSACHUSETTS. 79 line, with fine complexions ; and, judging from the sample which saw, they have a richness of intellect, and a cheerfulness of de« ortment, that makes them truly interesting. Altogether, Boston is really a fine place. It was here that the rerolution originated hvhich terminated in the independence of America: and the town is justly celebrated as being the birth-place of that great luminary m iterature and science. Dr. Franklin. During my stay in Bo«f^)n, which was only a few days, I went to a number of the public places ; among others the State-House, from whence there is a most elegant view of the town, bay, ship- pin"-, neck, bridges, and the whole country round, to the distance of from twelve to fifteen miles in each direction, presenting most picturesque scenery, including a number of elegant villages. In one ■ direction you can see twenty miles out at sea, and in another a I mountain, said to be distant sixty miles. '4 The bridges of Boston merit particular attention, being works of great extent and utility, and constructed at a vast expense ; a proof , of the sagacity and persevering industry of this people. West Bos- M ton bridge is upwards of 3000 feet long, and a causeway is connected with it 3000 more, connecting Boston with Cambridge. Charles River Bridge is 1500 feet long, and Maiden bridge is upwards of 2400 feet long : they are all built of wood, and have draws in the middle : the toll is reasonable. LongWharf has a^r«..dy been noticed. The Muse- um contains a very good collection of natural and artificial curiosities. Tuesday, September 2d, at 8 o'clock in the morning, I set out by the stage for Salem, distant about seventeen miles. After (grossing by Charles River Bridge, already noticed, we passed through Chariest own, a handsome town, which is only separated from Bos- ton by Charles River. It contains about 3000 inhabitants, and has two jlact's of public worship. The United States have a navy-yard and i.narine hospital here, and towards the west end of the town, close by the river side, is the State- Prison, on the same principle as as those at Philadelphia and New York, and said to be under ex- cellent management. At the north side of the town is BunkerN Hill, celebrated in the history of the American revolution. Leaving Charlestown, and travelling little more than a mile by the sea coast, we arrived at Mystic River, which we passed by a bridge 2424 feet long, and constructed upon the same principle n» those already mentioned. About four miles from thence we passed an extensive swamp, where we were assailed by musquetoes of a ve- 80 TRAVELS IN I II ! :! l! : i iiiiiii ry large size. At the farther end of the swamp we passed a floating bridge, and a little after, ascending the bank, we arrived at Lynn, where we stopped to change horses at a very elegant tavern. Lynn is a pretty little town, remarkable for its extensive manufacture of shoes. From thence we travelled to Salem, about seven miles, through a very rugged stony country, but by an excellent turnpike road, made, I was informed, mostly by Irishmen. I may here take occasion to remark that the Irish emigrants are exceedingly useful in this country, and a great portion of the most rugged labour in it is performed by them. The lower orders of the Irish are generally strong, robust men, without money, and with a very sloader educa- tion : hence, they are generally unfit for any kind of mercantile em- ployment ; and those who have not learned some mechanical pro- fession get employment in various branches of labour, for which they are well adapted ; and, getting good wages, they soon become independent and happy. Hence, the Irish are remarkable for their attachment to the American goverimient, while many other foreign- ers, particulaily those engaged m commerce, are discontented aua fretful. J, The moi'ning was damp and hazy; so that the view of the coun- try was not very agreeable ; and it was with regret that I observed it began to rain just as I entered my place of destination. Salem is, next to Boston, the lagest town in Massachusetts, and one of the earliest settled in the state. It is situated on a pen- insula formed by two branches of the sea, called North and South Rivet's, and consists of about 1 500 houses, and contained, in 1800, 9547 inhabitants. The houses are built partly of wood, and part- ly of brick ; and many ot them are uncommonly elegant. The principal public buildings are a court-house, five congregational churches, and one each for quakers and episcopalians. Salem car- ries on a very extensive shipping trade, more business being done here in that line than in any town in the New England states, Bos- ton excepted. There is a ship-yard in Salem, and u consider- able manufactory of sail-cloth. A bank has been long established. The inhabitants are said to be industrious and frugal, and the ap- pearance of the town indicates a considerable accumulation of wealth, i On my arrival, 1 went to see the wharves t^d shipping, which are very extensive. Salem is remarkable as being the residence of Mr. Gray, reputed the greatest ship -owner in America, having n vast number of square-i igged vessels, mai:y of which are in the saecl a floating ^ ved at Lynn, avern. Lynn Qanufacturc of It seven miles, jUent turnpike may here take ledingly useful ed labour in it I are generally sloader educa- mcrcantile em- echanical pro- our, for which y soon become rkable for their ' othe" foreign- scontented aua iv of the coiin- lat I observed ition. '' • Massachusctlsi, ated on a pen- rth and South incd, in 1800, )0(1, and part- Ejlegant. The longregational , Salem car- ss being done d states, Bos- d a consider- i£ established. , and the ap- ion of wealth. Ipping, which Ithe residence [erica, having Icli are in the MA&SACIIUSETIS. 81 India trade. One of these vessels was coming into port while I stood on the wharf, and it appeared it would be with considerable I difficulty she could get Into the harbour, the entrance being very shallow; and I was informed, that in consequence of this circum- stance Mr. Gray was about to remove to Boston. On my return to the Coffee- House, I found the following senti- jnient in one of the Salem newspapers : " There is reason to fear \ t],at a peace will at length be concluded betwen France and Britain ; [and if that unfoHunatehj be the case, the independence of the i latter is gone for ever, and we may soon look for an attack upon \ the liberties of America." In the course of my travels through the United States, I have frequently heard similar sentiments, principally from those professing the greatest regard for Britain ; but I must say, that they appear to me to be very incorrect. I grant it is better for Britain, or any other nation, to continue in a state of war, than to make a dishonourable peace, or to sub- mit to have their rights infringed by their neighbours ; but the sentiment in question, unqualified as it is, seems to breat^ie a wish for eternal war. It expresses a dread of Britain making pe^oe at all, and considers war and independence so intimately allied, that the one cannot be given up without the other. But, in my opinion, the greatest curse that ever befel Britain is the present war — one of the greatest blessings to that country would be an honourable and lasting peace. As to the supposed attack upon the libcities of America, I think it proceeds upon a very incorrect view of the subject, and iraplies an iden highly derogatory to the American character. It is perfectly obvious to me, fi m what I have seen in this country, that the Americans could maintain their liberties against the whole world combined, and no single nation, however powerful, would be mar^ °nougti to make an attack, which would infallibly end in disaster and disgrace. America contains upwards of six millions oifree people, and, if invaded, could at a short notice turn out a million of fighting men. This fact is well known in Europe, and would, of course, enter into the calcu- lation of any general who would plan an attack upon the country. He could not hope for success without at least an equal number ; and we may safely presume, that an army will never be sent three thousand miles, on an expedition which, though successful, would not pay one thousandth part of the expense. The afternoon continued wet, and rather cold. I returned to Dobtcui in the Cv-oning by the stiige. 11 I It S; If, f , ^ 82 TKAVELS IN •...|^ 1. ■■' »: ,f. - ( "liii. 'x* !. '■•;'* f •*.* rt t^. ' '^ CHAPTER xin. " ; ' ''^^ ; : ' , '.\. r New Hmnpshirem *r •^'*t ! '-(Us r • - IpEING at the extremity of my journey to the north-eastward, nnd in the mctropoh's of the New England states, I shall, before leaving it, take a view of the states of New Hampshire and Ver- mont. , . ., , ..,!•;- NEW HAMPSHIRE Is situated between 42° 42' and 4S® 13' north latitude, and*" 23' and 6° 10' east longitude. Its greatest length is 182, audits greatest breadth 92 miles. Its area is 9491 square miles, contain- ing 6,074,240 acres. The state has about 1 5 miles of sea-coast, from whence it ex- tends in breadth, and is generally level towards the sea, rising gradually from 20 to 30 miles, when the mountains commence, and these are more lofty than in any other part of the United States; the White Mountains being visible 30 miles out at sen, and computed by Dr. Belknap at 10,000 feet, by Mr. Williams at 7800. There are large and rich valleys among the mountains, and a number of level plains along Connecticut river. There are several lakes in the state, but none of any great importance, except Winnipiseogee, near the centre, 24 miles long, and of unequal breadth, from 3 to 1 2 miles. It is full of islands, and, being navigable in summer, and frozen over in winter, it proves a considerable convenience to that part of the country. The principal river is Connecticut, which is the boundary line between this state and Vermont. The Piscataqua is the boundaiy line, for a little way, between this state and the district of Maine; and forms the harbour for the only shipping port in New Hamp- shire. There is a singular curiosity in the state called the Notch, which is a pass througli the mountains, at one place only 22 feet wide, and, being bounded by rocks almost perpendicular, atid of great height, presents a sceoe strikingly picturesque. The minerals quoted are ochres, isinglass, chrystals, sulphur, free-stone, lead, black lead, and copper ; but the most valua- ble i» iron, which is found in many places, and is wrought in considerable quantities. 'Hie soil, near the sea -coast, is in some places sandy, but near 11 j'i^ri I NEW HAMPSHIKE. 83 north-eastward, I shall, before ashirc and Vcr- latitude, and*" is 182, audits miles, contain- I whence it ex- the sea, rising lins commence, of the United iles out at sea, Mr. Williams the mountains, river. There at importance, long, and ol )f islands, and, ntcr, it proves country. The ry line between bonndai-y line, of Maine; and New Hamjv lled the Notch, place only 22 perpendicular, uresque. stals, sulphur, most valua- is wrought in ndy, but near the banks of rivers generally good, as is likewise the case in the alleys among the mountains. The mountain;! are, many of tlicnj, rocky and barren, but others are fertile on the brows, and nearly all are covered with timber. ww^-rf. ,-. ;. The climate is healthy, but the winters arc long and severe, ,nd there are great extremes of heat and cold. Mr. Belknap has observed the thermometer at 18° below 0°, and in summer it has risen to nearly 100" ; the average is about 48° or 50°. Snow lies on the ground from three to four months, and the use of sleijjhs, during that period, is general. The spring is rapid ; and the summer and tall are generally pleasant. Tlie country was first discovered in 1614. ^flie first settlement was made in 1623. The inhabitants took an active part in the revolutionary war, and sent two delegates to congress in 1774; in 1788 they adopted the federal constitution; and the state con* stitution, as it now stands, was ratified in 1792. The state sends two senators and five representatives to congress. The state is divided into six counties, and 219 townships, of six miles square each. Its population in 1800 was 183,850, being nearly 20 to the square mile. Although this appears but a thin population, yet it is to be ob- served,*that a great part of the state is covered by mountains, which are incapable of cultivation. The sea -coast, valleys, and fertile spots, are said to be thickly settled, and these places have kept pace in improvements with the other New England states. Ports- mciith, on the Piscataqua river, two miles from the sea, is the j)rincipal town, and being the only seaport, it has a pretty good trade; it contains 5,500 inhabitants. Concord is the seat of government, and contains 2050. Dover contains 2062; Amherst, 2150: Hanover, 1920; Exeter, 1730: Keene, 1645; Charleston, 1634; Durham, 1128; there aru 3 others, containing from 500 to 1000. Small villages and farm-houses are numerous, and the country is pretty well supplied with good roads, and some elegant bridges, of which the chief is across the Piscataqua, seven miles above Portsmouth. It is 2600 feet long, and cost 68,000 dollars. ' Agricultare is the chief business of the state, and is well con- ducted. The principal products are beeii pork, mutton, poultry, wheat, corn, and other grain; butter, cheese, flax> hemp, hops, vegetables, apples, pears, &c. .... . \m 84 TRAVELS IN The country people generally mauufacturo their own clothing, and make considerable quantities uf tow cloth for exportation* The other manufactures are aslies, maple-sugar, bricks, pottery, and iron ware. A great part of the surplus produce of this state is carried to Boston, which prevents it from making a great figure in the scale of exports; the amount in 1805, was 608,408 dollars, but it seldom exceeds half a million. All the ex)K>rt trade centres at Portsmouth. The inhabitants are represented as hardy, robust, and active. Education has been very veil attended to. There is a college at Dartmouth, supported by a grant of 80,000 acres of land, and there are a number of academies, schools, and public libraries. The government is founded upon a bill of rights, declaring that all men are born equally free and independent ; and that all government originates from the people : that every man has a right to worship God according to the dictates of his conscience; that all elections ought to be free, and that every inhabitant ot' the state, having the proper qualificatipns, has an equal right to elect, and be elected, into office : that tliere $hall be no hereditary rights, and that the press shall be free, .-, ,. The exercise of the government is vested in a legislature, con- sisting of a senate and house of representatives ; a governor and council to execute the laws; and a judiciary to promote justice between man and man. The senate consists of 13 members, chosen annually by the people ; each member must be pos- sessed of a freehold estate of £. 200. The representatives are apportioned according to the population, every town which has 150 rateable polls being entitled to one representative; having 450, they are entitled to two. They are alsQ elected annually, and must be possessed of a freehold of j£. 100. The governor is, in like manner, elected annually, and must be possessed of a freehold of jf , 500. There are five counsellors, who are chosen annually, who must be possessed of freeholds of ^- 3Q0. The following extract from the constitution ought to be gene- rally known. " Knowledge and learning, generally diffused through a con> munily, being essential to the preservation of a free government, and spreading the opportunities and advantages of education through the various parts of the country, being highly conducive to promote this end ; it shall be the duty of the legislfttors and ' 1^ 'I. ! I VERMONT. 85 magistrates, in all future periods of this government, to cherish the interest of literature and the sciences, and all seminaries and pub- lic schools, to encourage private and public institutions, rewards and immunities ibr the promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences, com- merce, trade, ninnufactures, and natural historj of the country ; to countenance and inculcate the principles of humanity and general benevolence, public and private charity, industry and economy, honesty and punctuality, sincerity, sobriety, and all social affec- tions and generous sentiments, among the people." U' gislaturc, con- CH\PTER XIV. Is situated between 42° 42' and 45° north latitude, and 3<» 38^ and 5° 27' east longitude. It is 166 miles long, and its greatest breadth is 93 miles. Its area is about 10,237 square miles, or 6,551,680 acres. , . This state is mostly hilly, but not rocky, and towards Canada it is level. An extensive chain of high mountains runs through the middle, nearly south and north, which abounds with elegant scenery. Among these there are beautiful and fertile valleys; and the whole is finely watered with springs. Lake Champlain and its waters divides the state from New York on the west ; and the Connecticut riyer from New Hampshire on the east. There are several rivers ^wards Canada. No part of the state is on the seaboard. Iron is found in abundance throughout the state. Lead, cop- peras, flint, and vitriol have been found, and the west side of the state abounds with marble. • This state, notwithstanding its mountains, contains a great deal of excellent soil. The climate is similar to New Hampshire. The territory composing Vermont, was long claimed by the tidjoining states of New Hampshire and New York ; but the in- nabitants wished it to become an independent state in 1777, and the green mountttt* bot/Si as they were called, took a very active part in the war of the revolution ; but they did not succeed in eiitablighing their claim of independence till 1791} when they "«"' •i'.uni, ' ; I'i^i); VEIIMONT. nA admUted, a 14th state, into the union. The constitution wn adopted in 1793, and Vermont now sends two senntora nod four reprcicntatives to congress. The state is divided into 12 counties, and 245 townships of six miles sqfrare. The popuhition, by the census of 1800, wai 154)465, being upwards of 15 to the square mile. ■= Vermont being off the sea-coast, or, as it is sometimes termed, far from a market, there are no large commercial cities ; but there are a number of Uttle towns, few of which have more than two thousand inhabitants. . .t^^ '.f i MoNTPELLiER is thc seat of government, and contains 1500; Bennington 2250, Windsor 2200, Rutland 2130, Newbury 2OO0, Manchester 2000, Newfane J 700, St. Alban's 1400, Middlebury 1260, Burlington 1100, St. Hero 1000, Craftsbury 1000, Bruns- wick 1000. The great business of thc state is agriculture, in which the inha- bitants arc said to have made cpnsiderable progress. The soil is generally more productive than that of New Hampshire ; the pro- duce is nearly thc same. The brows of the mountains answer well for grazing : they raise great stores pf beef and pork, with ex- cellent butter and cheese for market ; and of late they have made great progress in raising sheep and wool, > The principal manufactures are of the domestic kind, consisting of wool and flax, for family use, Iron is manufactured ; and a con- siderable quantity of pot and pearl ashes. The only external trade of Vermont is with Canada, and the ex- ports, in 1805, amounted to 169,402 dollars,* but the state h(^ a (Considerable commerce, through the medium of its rivers, with New York, Hartford and Boston. The inhabitants are represented, by travellers whom I have conver. ftcdwitb, as beinghardy, robust, full-featured> and florid in their com- plexions : as they are mostly all agriculturalists or mechanics, they are independent in their sentiments, and their wants being mostly ^supplied among themselves, they are not subject to great vicissi- tudes of fortune, and are generally wealthy in proportion as they are industrious. The system of education partakes of this.equality : they have two seminaries for the higher branches of education ; but thft qhief object of the legislature h.'is been to provide for the gene- ral difiufion of knowledge, by having common schools in every to^vn- ship: apSan highly praiseworthy, and which every community ought to imitate. MASSACiiusrrTS. 87 The declaration of rights i» nearly the 8ame m that of New lampshire; but they have aii article declaring that no male bom hi the country, or brought over sea, cigi be held in b«ndage after II, and no female after 18 years of age. TIio plan of government is legislative, executive and judiciary. ic legishuive poM'cr is vested in representatives, chosen annually* svcrv free mnleof21 years and upwards, who pays taxes, having < a ►ote. The executive is vested in a governor, lieutcnant-^gorenlor, ind council of 12, chosen annually, in like manner: and in order ^' that the freedom of the commonwealth may be kept inviolate for »ver," a council of censors is chosen once in seven years, whose duly |t is to SCO that the constitution has been preserved inviolate ; whe- ther the tuxes have been paid, and the public monies properly dis- posed of; whether the public servants have done thoir duty, and the laws been duly executed : and they are empowered, if they ludge it necessary, to call a convention, to meet two years after \heh' sitting, to revibC and amend the constitution. ( . CHArXEIl XV. • ^ I* Cambridge^ — Worcester ^ — Spring field ^ — Sttffield. \ - ixIaVING taken my leave of a number of kind friends, with whom ll had associated during my stay in Boston, I engaged a passage by [the mail stage for New York, and was called to take my place on [the ^tli of September, at 2 o'clock in the morning. It is the prac- tice here for the driver to call on the passengers, before setting out, ind it is .ittended with a considerable degree of convenience to them, Particularly when they set out early in the morning. The mail stages here are altogether dilTerent in construction from the m^il [;oachcs in Britain ; they are long machines, hung upon leather bra- [ces, with three- seats across, of a sufficient length to accommodate [three persons each, who ail sit with their faces towards ^he horses : [the driver sits under cover, without any division between him and [the passengers, and there is room for r person to sit on each side [of him. The driver, by the post-office regulations, must be, a white jmaii, and he has the charge of the mail, which is placed in a box b^« [low his seat: there is no guard. The passengers' lugg^ige is {hit [below the seats, or tied on behind the stage; they put, liothLpg on ^ vr ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^\^. ■^i 1.0 I.I l^l^jS ■2.5 itt 1^ [2.2 S 144 "" 2.0 HiotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) S72-4S03 '4^ M ■! \V'U 88 TRAWLS IN the top) And they take no outside passengers. The stages are sh'giii- ly built, and the roof supported on pillars ; with a curtain, to be let down or folded up, at pleasure. The conveyance is easy, and in summer very agreeable ; but it must be excessively cold in winter. There was an Englisman, a facetious, merry fellow, who lodg- ed at Chappotin's, and took his passage along with me. On tak- ing our places, we found a lady passenger already in the stage, and our company was afterwards augmented by three more, nume- ly, a gentleman Irom the West Indies, one from Hudson, ajid u young lady. By the time we got all the passengers and the mail on boards it was 3 o'clock, at which hour we set out from Boston by West Boston bridge ; and three miles beyond it we passed through Cambridge, which, at that early hour, I could not sec, but 1 learned that the situation is handsome, and that it contains a university, which is reputed the best literary institution in the United States. It was established in 1638, and has now four large buildings, with accommodations sufficient to contain up- wards of 200 students, who attend it annually, and are instructed |n all the various branches of human knowledge. Attached to the institution are a philosophical apparatus, a small museum, and a very extensive library. The village of Cambridge contains about 1000 inhabitants. The houses are mostly Iniilt of wood. Tiic public buildings arc, besides the university, a court-house, an c- piscopal, and a congregational church. We travelled 13 miles before we had fuir day-light, during which, we passed through Watertown and Waltham, to Weston. It is to be observed, that towns, in the New England states, do not always imply a collection of houses in one place, sufficient to form a village. The whole country is divided into districts, of about six miles square each, and these are called towns, whether they be thickly settled or not. The arrangement of these towns is somewhat assimilated to the parishes in Scotland, having each a separate jurisdiction within itself, which regulates the affiiirs of re- ligion and of education, and makes provision for the poor. They are also of great importance in the elections, which are conducted throughout the whole state in one day, the people voting in their respective towns, which has a tendency to prevent all bustle and confusion. In traveUing through the country, you go from one town to another, and are never out of one ; it is therefore, only where the towns contain \'llagcs, that I mean to notice them, and. se, an e- MASSACHUSETTS. in giving the population, it is to be observed, that it includes the whole of the township, that being the mode in which the census is taken. Westov, which I last noticed, contains about I'iOO in- habitants. The country is said to be well cultivated and thickly settled, all the way from Boston. We could now see one another's faces, and the morning being clear and healthy, we were in high spirits, and disposed lor en* joymcnt. One of our lady passengers was a beautilul country girl, but we learned that she wos to travel with us only 28 miles ; and our facetious Englishman seemed disposoil to improve the time by orations in favour of lier eyes, or beautiful twinklas as he called them. They certainly were very pretty, and she had a blooming look, the indication of a blythe hearty according to the Scots proverb. The other lady, we learned, was travelling to Springfield, 80 miles; but she was quite eclipsed by her fair companion, and came in for no share of the Englishman's com- pliments, while the other remained with uSi From Weston, we passed through a thickly settled and well cultivated country, by Sudbury, Marlborough, and W^estborough; and, 45 miles from Boston, we arrived at Worcester, This is a pretty place, and said to be one of the largest inland towns in the state. It is the capital of a county to which it gives the name, and is situated in a pleasant valley, mostly on one street, which is broad and handsome. The houses are generally of wood, painted white; and are in number about 400. The inhabitants amount to about 2500. The public buildings are a cotirt-house, jail, and 2 congregational churches. They have a pretty extensive inland trade at this place, and the printing busi- ness has been long established here by a Mr. Thomas, who is reputed to be the oldest printer in America. It is proposed to open an inland navigation between this place and Providence, distant about 40 miles, and if it should take place, it is sup- posed that it will be attended with great advantage. From thence we passed through Leicester and Spencer, and, getting into a hilly country, we continued our course to Brook- field, about 21 miles from Worcester. This is a handsome post-tow^n, situated on Quebang river, 20 miles above its junc- tion with Connecticut river, and in a rich, fertile country, abounding in grain, grass, fruits, and vegetables: it contains nearly 3000 inhabitants, and has four places for public worship. 12 'm 11 90 TRAVELS IN L i'm i •,; :,i,!* n> The river abounds with ii&h, unci the country round containi great quantities of iron ore. Seven miles from hence we reached Western, 73 miles from Uoston ; and here day-light having failed us, my observations on the scenery of the country were terminated for the day. This was the first inland journey I had made in the northern states, and 1 was highly delighted with every thing I saw, which f«)rmcd a perfect contrast to Georgia ; and the villages, the fields, the farm-houses, the gardens, and the orchards, far surpassed what is to be generally seen, even in " Scotia, my dear, my na- tive soil." The inhabitants every where appeared to be industri- ous, contented, and happy; and I found them always civil and well-bred, and ready to give me every inibrmation. Oiu* company were lively and cheerful. Our facetious English* man was quite in high s|)irits ; and jocularly threatened to have me denounced as a spy. I retaliated by threatening to have him denounced as a flatterer of the fair sex, of whom he seemed df« terniincd to spare neither age, features, nor complexion ; for the beauti^ having left us, and ceasing to allure him by her " witch- ing smile," the other lady, whom I did not think handsome, came in for an extravagant share of compliment. " The night tlrave on wi' sangs an' clatter." Our West Indian, who was a Yankee by birth, entertained us with a history o^ bundlittg ; and we had a vast variety of songs, among which was " Yankee Doodle.'^ In prosecuting our journey to Springfiekl, we stopped at a siiiall tavera to change horses, and in the mean time went into the house to warm ourselves, for the evening had become cold. In passing through the parlour we saw a tall, elegant girl, t» whom our gentlemen began immediately to make love ; but I pro* secuted my way to the kitchen fire, where there sat onotbev young girl, and she was beautiful. She was dressed in substantial home- spun, but very clean, and was knitting a stocking. Hev ajit might be about 16, and her name was Lucretia. I entered into conversation with her, and her voice was as sweet as her counte- nance. I was delighted with her appearance. At length in came the other passengers, loith a bang ; and our facetious friend, who seemed to have reserved the very quintessence of his talent for compliment for the occasion, began an oration about fine arched eye-brows, aquiline noses, and beautiful twinklers, which proba* bly would have lasted half an hour, had wc not been called awajr MASSAGHUSFTTS. w nd contain! ?i'vations OQ ol>sfrvcHl lliat all the Yankee hidx to take our scats in the slope. We soon parties were not pleasetl, lor wo heart! grumbling as we passed them ; niul the Yankee lady passenger observed, with a toss of her head, that she could nut see what we all had to make such a fuss about. At 10 o'clock we reached Spiungfield, said to be a handsome and thriving town, situated on the east side of the Connecticut river, 97 miles from Boston. It contains about 1500 inhabitants, who carry on a considerable inland trade ; and have cstabliiihed a respectable manufactory of fire-arms. The public buildings arc a court-house and a congregational church. The Connecticut River, on which Springfield is situated, is one of the most considerable and important in the United Stati>s. It rises on the high lands which separate the states of Vermont and New Hampshire from Upper Canada; and pursuintr a course a little to the west of south, falls into I^ng Inland Sound ; its length, including its windings, being about 300 miles. It forn)s the boundary line between Vermont and New Hampshire, and passes through the interior of Massachusetts and Connecticut. Its banks are highly cultivated and thickly settled, through its whole course. There is a bar at its outlet, on which there is only 10 feet water, and interiorly it is much obstructetl by falls ; but it b navigable foi sea vessels to Hartford ; and there is a great trade on the river above that place ; ))articularly downwards, in flat-bottomed boats. The river abounds with salnuui, and other fish. It is in contemplation to improve the navigation by locks at several places, and to connect it with Mcrrintac river, distant 50 miles, by a canal. Having crossed this river, the road runs nearly along its west bank, 10 miles, to Suffield, in Connecticut, where we stopped for the night. Here I suspend my account of the journey, to take a short review of the interesting state of Massachusetts. n MAssAciiusrrrs. nn-^ liS i h ■■ i'N !>■ :"'U CHAPTER XVI. Massachussets Is situated between 41® 13' and ^2° 52' north latitude, and 3» 28' and 7** east longitude. Its extreme length is l&O miles, and its greatest breadth 100. Its squaie contents is 87G5 miles, being about 5,609,600 acres. The face of the country is strikingly diversified. The Coast on the east side, is indented with bays, and studded with islands, which aiibrd ample harbours for shipping, and support a hardy race of sailors and fishermen. Toward the middle the surface is agreeably uneven, and the west swells out into mountains, some of which are of very considerable height. The state is well water- ed, abounding in rivers and small lakes. The principal rivers are Connecticut and Merrimac, already noticed. The principal mineral is iron, of which the state produces a great quantity. A copper mine has been discovered; and there are considerable quantities of clays and ochres, and slate, marble, and limestone. The soil is various. Toward the sea-coast it is sandy and barren ; in the interior it improves ; and toward the western parts, where the country is hilly, it is best adapted for grazing. Wheat crops arc not abundant, but it produces Indian corn, rye, barley, and oats. Vegetables and fruit come to great per- fection, and are of much value in the state. Flax and some hemp are cultivated; and hops grow luxuriantly. The climate is very much assimilated to that of Rhode Island. Toward the west, the winters are more cold and severe than on the coast, but the weather is more steady, and the whole is healthy. Massachusetts was first settled in 1620, by a colony of puritans from Holland, who had been driven there from England, 20 years before. These arrived and settled at Plymouth ; and eight years thereafter, another colony arrived from England, and settled at 8aleni. These colonies soon encreased, and laid the foundation for a powerful state, now one of the first in the union. The revolution originated in Massachusetts, which bore an active share throughout the war. It now sends 1 7 representatives and two }>enutors to the congress of the United Sates. MASSACHUSETTS. 93 Massachusetu proper, is divided into 12 counties and 279 townships. The inhabitants, by last census, amounted to 422,845, being about 48 to the square mile. . . This state is well cultivated, and abounds with wealth. Boston is the capital, and tlie next town in importance is Salem. These, ami several others, have been noticed. Of the remainder, the most important is Marbleheadj a sea-port, containing upwards of 5000 inhabitants. Newbun/port is a handsome sea-jwrt, con- taining nearly 6000 inhabitants, and has several manufactories, and a large shipping trade. Ipswich contains 3000 inhabitants; and Concord^ a flourishing town on Concord river, is remarka- ble as being the place where the provincial congress held their de- liberations during the war. Taunton, Northampton, Stockbridge, Pittsfkld, and Barnstaple, are all towns of considerable note. The state is intersected in every direction with good roads, and the bridges are numerous and very important. The greater part of the manufactures have already been enume- rated in the account of Boston ; but it may be noticed, that, in the interior, there is a vast variety of domestic manufactures ; and several others upon a larger hcale, particularly of woollen and cotton. The exports of the state are provisions, timber, ashes, flax-seed, bees-wax, fish, oil, saddlery, cabinet-work, boots and shoes, nails, tow-cloth, iron utensils, glass, spirits, &c. The imports are British manufactures, tea, wine, silks, spirits, coffee, cotton, &c. Com- merce is pursued with an ardent spirit in the state ; and it is said that Massachusetts owns more sliipping than any other state in the union. The exports, in 1805, amounted to 19,435,657 dollars; but 14,738,606 dollars consisted of foreign produce, and, of the re- mainder, a considerable portion was that of other states. The state has very extensive fisheries, the product of which is annually of great value. The state of society is a good deal assimilated to that of Rhode Island, described in the tenth chapter, with this essential difference, that slavery is totally abolished in all its branches. The air is, like- that of Britain, " too pure for a slave to live in ;" and, with regard to the white people, I think it is << more pure," for here they are all on an equal footing, having neither nobles, nor. priests, nor rent% nortythes. The religious matters, like the state of Rhode Island, and, indeed, all the other states, are managed by cack religious sect ia it^ own way, who are not suffered to interfere with the civil !! ,1 r ••' I I) ' I n- ' i 1, ■ I t ( ; . 'it.' ■ Urn: 94 TBAVBLS IN rights of theit neighbours, so that the sting is drawn out of tlie tail of the scorpion of religious discord. No sect is elevated above ano- ther ; and all have reason to be thankful for the blessings they en- joy, in the protection of equal laws. The literary, humane, and other institutions, are numerous, and exhibit a fair trait in the cha- racter of the inhabitants. On the subject of literature, the constitution declares that " wis- dom and knowledge, as well as virtue, diffused generally among the body of the people, being necessary £br the preservation of their rights and liberties ; and as these depend on spreading the oppor- tunities and advantages of education in the various parts of the country, and among the different orders of the people, it shall be the duty of the legislatures and magistrates, in all future periods of the commonwealth, to cherish the interests of literature and the sci- ences, and all seminaries of them ; especially the university at Cam- bridge, public schools, and grammar-schools in the towns ; to en- couri^e private societies and public institutions, by rewards and immunities for the promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences, com- merce, trades, manufactures, and natural history of the country ; to countenance and inculcate the principles of humanity and gene- ral benevolence, public and private charity, industry and frugality, honesty and punctuality in their dealings ; sincerity, good-humour, and aU social affections and generous sentiments among the people." Dr. More says, ^ According to the laws of this copimQn>vealth, every town having 50 householders or upwards, is to be provided with one or more schoolmasters, to teach children and youth to read and write, and instruct them in the English language, arith- roedc, orthogri^hy, and decent behaviour ; and where any town has '200 families, there is also to be a grammar-school set up there- in, and some discreet person, well instructed in the Latin, Greek, and English languages, procured to keep the same, and be suitably paid by the inhabitants. The penalty for neglect of schools, in towns of 50 fiunilies, is j610. ; those of 100 families, j£20. ; and of 1«0, jffSO. The state government is vested in a senate and house of represent^ adveci) styled the General Court ; a gov^nor^ lieutenant-governor, and council. The senators are 40 in number, and are elected an- finally in districts ; and the voters must be possessed of a freehold cstatA of iCd. or any estate (^ the value <^iC60. The representatives are elected annually, in townships : every corporate town contain- 4 MASSACHUtnrS. 95 out of tlie tail :ed above ano. sings they en> humane, ond ait in the cha- •68 that " wis- illy among the ation of their ng the oppor- parts of the le, it shall be ure periods of re and the sci* ersity at Cam* towns ; to en- y rewards and icienccs, com- r the country ; lity and gene* land frugality, good-humour, ig the people." 3pimQn>vealth, o be provided and youth to guage, arith- ere any town set up there- tin, Greek, d be suitably f schools, in '20.; and of ! of represent'" it-govemor, Ire elected an- k a freehold >reBentative$ Vwa contain- ing 150 rateable polls elect I, those containing S75 elect 2, those containing €00 elect S, and so on, making, 225 the number for e- ver}' additional representative. The electors must be possessed of the tame property as for senators. The governor is styled his excellency^ and must be possessed of a freehold of 4^1000. He is elected annu- ally by those qualified to vote for senators and representatives. The lieutenant-governor is styled his honour^ and must have the same qualifications, and be elected in the same manner as the go- vernor. The coiuicil consists of nine persons, chosen from the se^ nators by joint ballot of the senators and representatives. The District of Maine is politically connected with Massa- chusetts, and is of great extent, being about 250 miles long by 192 broad, and contains an area of 34,000 square miles, or 21,760,000 acres. The first settlement took place about the year 1630; and the in- habitants, who have been greatly augmented by emigration from tlte adjoining states, amounted, by the last census, to 151,719, being less than 4 to the square mile ; but they are rapidly increasing. There are a number of considerable towns on the coast, of which the chief is Portland, which contains nearly 4000 inhabitants, and hasa great and increasing ti'ade. York is the second in importance, and is a place of considerable business. Hallffooell, Wiscasset^ and Machias are considerable places, to say nothing of Passamaquoddyt a sort of Land!s End in Comvoally or Johnny Groat's House, at the very extre- mity of the Union, and which sends out a considerable number of small vessels. The land on the sea-coast is stony and barren ; h'^t there tcrt tracts of good land in the interior of the country, which produce grain and fruits, and the country is remarkably well calculated for grazing. The principal trade consists in lumber and fish, of which the in- habitants carry great quantities to the sea-ports of America, and to the West Indies. The manufactures are principally of the domes- tic kind. The state of society is nearly the same as in Massachusetts. The face of the country is hilly, but not mountainous ; and the coast is completely indented with bays and rivers. The winters ore long and severe, with clear settled weather : the summers are short, but very agreeable : of spring there is hardly any ; btit the autumns are ^'enerally clear and hfalthy. i .1 : Lia; mm tRAVBL« IN CHAPTER XVII. Hartfordy — Newhavni, — Stamford. September 5. We resumed our journey tliis morninj,' ai 8 o'clock, und travelled towards Hortibrd, kecpiug near tin- banks of the river. The morning was serene and clear, but a little cold. We could see nothing of the country at that early hour ; but we were informed that it was handsome, and well im- proved. The road is level and good. Ten miles from Suffieid, we passed through WindsoVi a pleasant town, situated on Windsor Ferry River, which we passed by a wooden bridge. We now had day-light, and an agreeable journey for six miles further, to Murt- ford, which we reached at 7 o'clock, to breakfast. Hartford is a handsome city, the capital of Connecticut, and is, alternately with Ncwhaven, the seat of legislation for the state. It is situated on Connecticut River, at the head of sloop naviga- tion, 50 miles above Lung Island Sound. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one another at right angles ; but they are not paved, and, when I saw them, they were very muddy. The city consists of about 400 houses, and contains between 3 and 4000 inhabitants.* The public buildings are the State-House, an cli>- gant edifice, two congregational churches, and one episcopal church. The citizens carry on an active commerce, in all tin; products of the state, to the southern states and the West Indies; and they have a large share of countiy trade. Considerable ma- nufactures are carried on with spirit, ond are increasing. The mar- kets are well supplied with wholesome provisions, which are sold at reasonable rates. On leaving the city, we got an addition to our company, ofsonio students going to Newhavcn, and some young ladies j and we had a great deal of entertainment from the remarks of our facetious Englishman, who began by questioning the students, why the citizens of Hartford had not paved the streets ? They gave sonic account of it, which I do not recollect ; but it was not satisfactory ; and one of our company attempted to solve the difficulty, by al- leging that it was probably with a view of encouraging the • By tlie census of 1810 they were T>,^J55. Ah] CONNRCTin.'T. yf ffiowtli of the young women. 1 le hail rom:irkt(l, that the young Indies of I Urtfonl were unconinionly tall ; and a« sap and soil were viTV necessary to the growth of vegetable substances, and the citi- zens of Hartford were a philosophicid people, and " full of no- tioiiN," it was likely they had tried the experiment with the oni- nml creation, and had succeeded. The students were highly di- verted, and laughed heartily at what they called his odd " notion.'* The ladies in the stage were too i/onrtg to attract the attention of our friend ; but many a remark did he m; Ice on thouc we passed, who, " to conceal nothing," as Goldsmith says, " were certainly very handsome." The weather was delightful, and the view of the country was highly gratifying. The fields were well cultivatetl, al>oun(ling with fruits of all sorts; and we purchased from a coun* tryniaii, enpassanty a whole basket full of peaches tor a mere trifl«, which kept us well supplied in fruit the whole way to Newhaven. We took, as we were informed, a new road ; and passing se- veral villages of infeiior note, we reached Wallingford, 26 milcf from Hartford, about 12 o'clock. Here we had a delightful view, and were informed that this district was celebrated for raising onions, and that a company of young girls had cultivated that root so successfully, in a neighbouring town, that they had built a church with the proceeds. This account of the industry of the young women was highly gratifying, and we were really delighted with their blooming countenances, and the cleanly, substantial dress which they wore. It was plain and simple, but so much the better ; For lovdinoss Ncedit not tlie foreign aid of ornament, But is, when unadom'd, adom'd the most In our way towards Newhaven, we passed through a very elegant country, where we had a number of fine views ; and we reached the great, enlightened city of Newhaven, at 2 o'clock. Her* we stopped for dinner, and we had some little time to take a view of the town. Newhaven is a handsome city. The surrounding scenery is very fine, and the situation pleasant, and favourable for commerce. It is built on a considerable bay, on Long Island Sound, and covers part of a pretty extensive plain, having a river on each side of it. The streets cross one another at right angles, and there is a kfjNarc in the middle, round which are the public buildings, which 13 ■ o I ; r fB coNNRcrictir. Iiiivc it vci V linnilM)nio Mppeorance. Tiiey arc the college)!, State* Iluiise, tlircc cuiigregatioiml, ami one episcopal church. I rcgrct- totl tliut my time did not permit me to see the College, which in esteemed ono of the best seminarieA in the Unitetl i^tntet, atid, liy the citizens of Ncwhaven, is considered the very best. The city contuins nearly GOOO inhabitants, who carry on a very active trade with New York and the West Indies; and they have established considerable manufactures, which are said to be in a thriving Htatc. We took our departure from Newhaven aliout 4 o'clock, and travelling tliirteen miles through a pretty good tract of country, along the Sound, we reached Mit/ordf a considerable town, hav- ing boverul churches and from thence, through a country nearly biniihir, a few miles, we passed the H(msatonic Iliver, by a ferry. This river rises about the border:; of Massachusetts, and running a south-east course, the whole breadth of the state of Connecticut, falls into tlie Sound a little below where we crost^ed it. It is navi- gable to Derby, twelve miles up, and above that is very important for mills and machinery ; the country on its banks is said to be very romantic Four miles from this river we passed Stratford^ a pleasant town, and of considerable extent; and now day-light failed us, and terminated my observations. We continued our course through Fairfield and Norvoalk, said to be considerable and pleasant towns ; and at 12 o'clock reached Siamjurd, 44 miles from Newhaven, where we stopped for the night. In our way, we passed a number of rivers oi inferior note, and part of the country ap|)eared to be rough, and the road very bad ; but we were intbrmed that a new line of turnpike road wtis in for- wardness, and would soon be finished. CHAPTER XVni. , Conncctieut, Is situated between ^1° and42» north latitude, and 3° 20' and 5^ cast longitude. Its greatest length is 83 miles, and its greatest breadth 72. Its area is 4400 square miles, or 2,816,000 acres. The face of the country is agreeobly uneven. To the south th« coast extends along the Sound the whole length of the state, and has many fine inlets, which are highly advantageous to commerce. * COHNECTICUT. 99 Towards the north-west the country •welU out into hi^h, l)roki'ii, hilly lands, but there arc no niountuiiik. Thin hilly country itt said to he very romantic. The state is rcnmrknhly well watori'd, abounding in HinaU streams. The principal rivers are Cunnecticut and Housatonic, already mentioned, and the Thames. Thiit Inst river is formed at Norwich of two branches, called Shetucket and Little rivers; and thence runs u due south course, H niilen, to the sound. It liaN a fine harbour at New I^ndon, and is navigablo for small TesscUto Norwich. Iron ore is found in the state in great abundance, and lead^ copper, and zinc have also been discovered, though in no great (|uantilies. Pit-coal has been found, but, I believe, not in suiH- cient quantity to induce the inhabitants to dig for it. There are a number of mineral springs in the state; the most important is in Lichfield county, which is highly impregnated with carbonic acid gas, and sulphurated hydrogen gas; and is said to be very UHefui in curing various diseases, particularly dyspepsia, rheuniatism, and those of the cutaneous kind. The soil is various, some parts being poor and sandy, and some very fertile; generally speaking, there is a great deal of good land, and the state is remarkably well calculated for grazing. The climate is subject to great and sudden changes, passing to the extremes of heat and cold ; but it is very healthy, and thu rtate abounds with remarkable instances of longevityt The first settlement was made in the year 1633, by some Dutch and English traders with the Indians, In 1G62, a charter was granted by (Jharles II. which still serves as the basis of thu state government; and which, from the ignorance of the British government, at that time, of the geography of the country, has involved some singular disputes about land titlc>s. Connecticut bore an active share in the war for independence ; and now forms a very important state in the union, sending two senators and seven representatives to congress. The state is divided into eight counties and 107 townships. The population, in 1800, was 251,002, including 951 slaves, be- ing about 57 to a square mile. The country is highly improved, and abounds with handsome towns, villages, ai^d ^arm-houses, There are five incorporated cities, viz, Hartford, Jfexiohavettf New London, Not-wich and Mid- (lletamn. The two first have been noticed. New London in band" i 100 CONNECTICUT. 'UV A^-'i-- sonicly situated on tlic Tliunics, and has on excellent harbour, and extensive trade. It contains upwards of 3000 inhabitants, and liat a bank, and three houses for public worship. Norwich is on the same river, at the head of navigation, and has numerous nia- nutitctures and an extensive trade. It contains nearly 3000 in- habitants, and has a court-house, a bank, an insurance company, an academy, and three places for public worshi}). Middletovcn^ situated on Coiniecticut river, 15 miles below Hartford, contains about 2000 inhabitants, and carries on a considerable trade. There is a bank , an insurance company, a court-house and two places for public worship in the city. Licfifieldi'i a fine town, containing up- wards of 4000 people. It is beautifully situated in an elevated part of the state, and has a court-house, meeting-house, and aca- demy. IVethersfield is the oldest town in the state, and is remark- able tor the culture of onions. 1"he other villages are numerous, the whole state being studded with them, containing from 500 to 1500 or 2000 inhabitants; among others may be mentioned Dan- hurij, Windham^ Haddam^ and Tolland. The houses are generally built of wood, on a handsome phqit and are painted white ; which gives the country an air of great cleanliness and neatness. This enterprising little state first set the example of making turnpike roads in New England^ and these and other good roads are so abundant, that travelling is facilitated in all directions. There are a number of bridges in the state, some of them constructed at great cxpence, which are of great utility. The agriculture of the state is in a condition which speaks vo- lumes in praise of equal laws. There is no feudal system, and no law of primogeniture; hence there are no overgrown estates on the one hand, and few of those employed in agriculture are de- pressed by poverty on the other. The farms are generally from no to 5000 acres, cultivated by a hardy industrious race, whose labour is rewarded by the blessings of heaven in " peace, and health, and sweet content." But it L said, that all the sons of Connecticut are not thus wise. There is a superabundance of the learned professions, particulai'ly in the law department, who keep the state embroiled in litigation. " God made man upright, but they have sought out many inventions." — The produce of the state is wheat, rye, Indian corn, oat«, barley, buck-wheat, flax, a large quantity, and some hemp, with a great variety of vegetables, and i'l uit. The soil is well adapted to grazing, and vast quantities of CONNECTICUT. 101 cheese and butter are made : much pork is cured: cyder is al- Iso made in great plenty and perfection. The farmers of Connecticut, and their families, arc gienerally dressed in cloth of their own manufacture, which is substantial and good ; and there are considerable and very important manu- factures, on a larger bcale, throughout the state, viz. woollens» linens, cottons, leather of every description, hats, stockings, pa- per, wire, bells, soap, candles, oil, clocks and watches, earthen and stone ware, chaises, harness, &c, The state has a very considerable coasting and foreign trade. The exports, in 1805, amounted to 1, 443,729 dollars. They are principally to the West India islands, consisting of live stock, timber, grain, fruit, fish, and provisions. The imports consist of manufactured piece goods of the finer kinds, wines, and groceries. The population of Connecticut consists of farmers, mechanics, manufacturers, ministers of religion, instructors of youth, doctors of medicine, and lawyers. There are no idle people to be seen, although it is said that too many are engaged in the learned pro- fessions ; and Connecticut sends out a full proportion of luminar- ies annually, to enlighten other states. Education is upon an ex- cellent footing, and the school fund is more ample than that of any other state. The college at Newhaven, which is named Yale College, has been already noticed, and academies have been esta- blished at Greenfield, Plainfield, Canterbury, Norwich, Wind- ham, and Pomfrct. The law directS that a grammar school shall be kept in every county town throughout the state ; but the great, popular, and permanent advantage on this branch, arises from the establishment of shools in every township, being an arrangement similar to the parish schools of Scotland, and which produced similar effects — a general diffusion of knowledge, " steady habits," and sobriety of manners. In religion, the form of church go- vernment is generally congregationi^l or presbyterian, but everjr other form may be freely exercised. The form of government ia derived from the ancient charter ; by which the legislative authorl*' ty is vested in a governor, deputy governor, twelve assistants or counsellors, and the repre8entativ«8 of the people, styled the General Assembly. They are divided into two branches, of which the governor, deputy governor, ai^4 assistants form one^ and the representatives the other : and no \a,;^, can pass without the concurrence of both. The governor an4 assistants are chosen an- 109 tRAVELS IN nually) and the representatives, who must not exceed two for each town, are cho»en twice each year. The sufTrage is universal, every freeman who is of age having a vote, without regard to property. I f s s ■'iir CHAPTER XIX. Horseneck, — Harlem, — New York. SEPTEMBER 6. This morning, at 3 o'clock,we took cur seats in the stage. I was diverted by a dialogue between the two drivers, in which the word guess oceurcd so frequently, that I could hardly hear any thing else. "Ig«^5s this string's not long enough." "Oycn,lgum it is." " C) yes, Iguess I'll make it do." " There, — Iguess you've fix- ed it." " Yes, I guess j/ou guess right." Leaving Stanford we passed ceveral creeks. The morning was raw and foggy. At the dawn of day we reached a considerable rising ground, called Horsc7ied, and we alighted, and walked up the hill, by a winding road. Hen we were told a singular anecdote of Major Putnam. A part of the British army were encamped not far from this hill, and the major went to the top of it, in a fog, to reconnoitre ; just as he reached th; top, the fog cleared away, and he found himself close by a coqis of British cavalry, who immediately pursued him. He clapped spun to his horse, and ; not having time to keep the road, galloped right down the hill, and, fitrange to tell ! reached the plain unhurt ; and thus eluded his pursuers. A few miles from thence, we passed Bj- ram river, and entered the state of New York. The first township we came to in this state was Rye, containing about 1000 inhabitants. The soil appeared pretty good, but the face of the country is rough and stony. We continued our course through East and West Chester, both considerable townships ; near the last is a manufacture of earthenware, said to be in a thriving state. The soil in this district seems to be poor and sandy ; but we were informed it was well calculated for sheep and cattle, the flocks of which were encreasing. Nine miles from New York, we passed into York Island, by a wooden bridge, at Harlem ; and, continuing our course through the middle of the island, which abounds with numerous villas and pleasure-grounds, generally the property of the merchants of New York, we reached the city at ten o'clock. I was highly gratified \>y my tour to the New England states. NEW YORK, 103 I continued in New York, transacting various mercantile busi- iness, until the 25th ot September; during which lime I again called on Thomas Paine, in company with his friend, formerly mentioned. Paine was still at the house of Mrs. Palmer, but his leg had got luiich better, and he was in good spirits. News had arrived that inorning that a peace had been concluded between France and Eng- land ; but Paine said he did not believe it, and again affirmed, that . while the present form of government lasted in England, there would be no peace: the government was committed in a war sy»- tein, and would prosecute it as long as they could command the means, tie then turned up a newspaper, which had recently been established at New York, and, after reading several paragraphs, he observed that he could not understand what the editor was driv- ing at. He pretended to be a great friend of Britain, and yet he was constantly writing against peace, and the best interests of the I country ; and in place of being guided by the plain dictates of com- mon sense, he aimed at flowery embellished language, and glided away into the airy regions of speculative nonsense, more like a madman than the editor of a newspaper. After a good deal of ge- I neral conversation, we took our leave. A lew days after, his friend handed me a piece in MS., intended for the newspapers, and requested me to copy it, and keep the ori- I ginal ; and as Paine has made a great noise in the world, I shall I here insert it) as a relic of an extraordinary political character, and I as a very good specimen of the acuteness of his mind, and his turn for wit, at the advanced age of 70. « For tJte Citizen, " It must be an inconsolable affliction to poor Mr. 's friendt;, I if he has any, to hear that his insanity increases beyond all hopes I of recovery. His case is truly pitiable : he works hard at the trade j of mischief-making ; but he is not a good hand at it, for the case is that the more he labours the more he is laughed at, and his malady increases with every laugh. ,,j " In his paper of Thursday, September 18th, the spirit of pro- j phecy seizes him, and he leaps from the earth, gets astride of ft I cloud, and predicts universal darkness to the inhabitants of thift lower world. " Speaking of the rumours of peace between France and Eng- land, he says, * we will not believe it till we see it gazetted (meaning I m ■ f.f »■ 104 : NEW YORK. in the London Gazette,) and then,* says he, * we will aver that the sun which dawns upon that event will be the darkest that ever rose since the transgression of our first parents brought sin into the world.' This is the first time we ever heard of the sun shining darkness. But darkness or light, sense or nonsense, sunshine or moonshine, are all alike to a lunatic. — He then goes on. * In a continuance,' says he, * of war only, can Britain look for salvation. That star once extinguished, all will be darkness and eternal night over the face of ihe creation.' — The devil it will I And pray Mr. , will the mden shine darkness too? and will all the stars twinkle darkness? If that should be the case, you had better sell your press, and set vap tallow-chandler : there will be more demand for candles than for newspapers when those dark days come. ** But, as you are a man that writes fur a livelih(K)d, and I sup. pose you find it hard work to rub on, I would advise you, as a friend, not to lay out all your cash upon candle-making ; for my opinion is, that whether England make peace or not, or whether she is conquered or not conquered, the sun will rise as glorious and shine as bright on that day as if no such trifling things had happened." •'* i r "wl ..^ ^r , t -sr It appeared in the sequel that Paine was correct in his opinion, and the editor was gratified in his wish — there was no peace. I'4 » .KJllJl CHAPTER XX. . Nam York, ' L HIS interestmg state is situated between 40* 33' and 45* north la^ude^ and 3° 43' east, and 2°43' west longitude; its extreme length, firom east to west, being 340, and extreme breadth, from north to south, 817 miles; but it is very irregular. The square contents amount to about 52,125 square miles, or 33,360,000 acres; being 18,000 square miles larger than Scotland. ' There is a vast variety in the face of the country. Long Island and Staten Island are situated at its southern extremity, and are in- teresting. The state is bounded by Connecticut on the east, New Jersey on the west, extending in breadth to the highlands, witli an agreeably uneven surface. From the highlands, about 50 miles a- bove New York, the state is hilly, in many places mountainous ; and ver that the tat ever rose o the world.' fg darkncsii. moonshine, ontinuance,' hat star once ;r the face of — f will the ^darkness? ress, and let candles than and Isup< ise you, as a ing ; for my or whether as glorious r things had his opinion, peace. d 45' north its extreme eadth, from The square ),000 acres; ^ong Island and are in- east, New kds, witli an 150 miles a- linous ; and •r'^-, iH k 'M .»;;(■ ^« :."fl 14- til W! ':!'! ■■■•«* '« » *•< m ■r .» ! V, Titil WKI W*I/ «^ltW*ri, iiftvj ^ ... |M r*«,'*K' <»jw» •<«♦'•■• -♦?»■! on Uu* <«t« hut J*. • ' " <• , ii.ii ijjf luliitio in t5>w)|p •• > • ^"'^c/rr >•>/«•' 'u />?>r' '"rrJ.j**, ♦iJ*^■ri'l, • . ' > wtr 'hf irWv.i;, 'lit Ji ' , % . 'H»r!'«»t>.^hc.tn)•iu•^. •iff H)r*M.'f ViMi^J* i.ji,mr , '?Vf.* (twj>niirti .. . u J)mi»>;ijj( L »oii|t;is -♦•«-♦'{ vt»~».. ^H«#Ai.- ijjf?* S'niilos lib • S"i xi^y ; 0j| t * it tti n!ii igablc hj' b'- of iof>«'i.'iii tM^^i-^iV.. "^ ~'>. bfrt tyutafj Hiub^it^^ mti ^m hikv . * S^' •SfWfe. UivfT, it iiJiy, in }ni.vitt« c4 ;^- .-. ■i«iilcatii»« ».Kln-^««».v Lake I '> ■rM* »'i' * vvifl'. inill-^x^t' i, i>n«l h**' nwji iViiifti /. '♦• tJic >*t.>i is the i^i/>t^- . < ,»;>«' ij>»>«it art i,' , ' m i ■is*' u « *# I I 1 ^ML H » • r I** ¥. # V*,; *: • ^^W^ t ^ '» !li ♦■**! ^TT «ni.,»>l^ - ,■ ■ ■ • ■ . t '1 M )?lj Nii ^ttt: ;a>' ff:i| .«-« i.il I %fj Hi m -.«f- .,.. >T «iA ;i:.J> ,*' ■ \1 iV A«. .. H i'' **.: .^- m^^^ ^4' k:r,; I? ^M>, <-l«i iftJ'M l''*?^ #. Vf^-^^'v ( Uru •r>H u';; KIW JXRtBT. 109 ^-•^1 • CHAinEH XXI. Jt-rseyy — BrunsvcuJc, — Prmcftfywn^ — Trenton, ^VkDNESDAY, Scpteinlxr 34. ilnving finished my busincM in New York, 1 took leave o( iny fricndis imd crosted Hudson> rivcr» at b u'clock in i\\^ nioroing. 'Wa d«iy was dull and cloudy, en tlut 1 could sec but little; but being quite ia the humour for innkiii); inquiries regarding this extensive country, I took my place on tlie lore-scat beside the driver. It surprised nie to ob- Merve lu'W well iutbrmed this class of people arc in America. In uiy journey through the New England states, I was highly gratified by the prompt and accurate answers which they made ta luy questions; and I resolved to follow the same plan of obtaininj^ iiii'orniation throughout my tour. We took our departure at 9 o'clock, from a little town called Jersey, which is the landing-place from New York, and travel- led a few miles through a country rather stony and sandy, to Bergen^ a small village, having a church, and said to be inhabited mostly by Dutch |)cople. A little further on, wc reached Hack- cnsack river, which we passed by a toll-bridge, and immediately entered into n very extensive swamp, through which the road is cut at a considerable expcnce. lliis swamp is said to be 50 milef long, and about ibur broad, and abounds with grass of a very strong kind, but it must l>e difficult to gather it. We saw, how- ever, that it had been all cut during the summer. We were much molested with m^squetoe^ of a very large size, during our pas- sage through it ; soon after which we passed the Passaic rivers snd arrived at Newark, nine miles frqm New York. Hackensack river rises in New York state, and running a south* east course, falls into Rework bay, a little below where ^e proised it. It is navigable 15 miles up tl^e country, ^(i^aic river riict in the interior of the country, and ruon jng upwards of 50 mil«^ by a very winding course, tails iqto Newark bay. It is navig»> blc about 10 miles ; and, albout 14> mile» froin its outlet, there lire ihlls on it of 70 feet perpendicular, which form one of the greatest curiosities in the state, and constitute a fine situation for mill-seats, at which a cotton nianufaurtory has been recently es^ tablished* -. . t »• ■h' i . — _>-- jU i 110 TRAVELS IN [f^i Newark is a beautiful Tillage, regularly laid out in broad street?, on a fine plain, and contains nearly 2000 inhabitants. The pub- lie buildings are two ]>laros for public worship, a court-house, and academy. Considerable inanufacturcn arc carried on here, par- ticularly of leather. The inhabitants have likewise a pretty exten- sive inland trade ; and have a bank to facilitate their commer- cial operations. The country is well cultivated in the neighbour- hood, and Newark is remarkable for the goodness of its cyder, of which a large quantity is made annually. Six miles beyond Newark is lElizabethtown, containing two churches and an academy. It is a pretty little place, and the land in its neighbourhood is fertile, and well cultivated. Ten miles from thence, tli rough a pretty fertile country, we reached Woodbridge, a small village, where we stopped for dinner, at I o'clock. The day was rainy and disagreeable, so that there was no great pleasure in viewing the country ; and as to amuse- ment in tlie stage, 1 could get none, for there was a surly-lookiiig man from Charleston, who engrossed all the conversation, and his whole talk was about cotton, and he spoke as if nobody knew any thing of the matter but himself. /t half-past three o'clock, we reached Brunswick, 36 miles from New York, where we crossed the Kariton River, by a wood- en bridge. This is one of the most considerable rivers in New Jersey. It lises about SO miles above this, and, running a south- east course, falls into Rariton Bay at Amboy. It is navigable to this place, by which means a great trade is carried on with New York. Brunswick is an incorporated city, containing about 3000 in- habitants. The greater part of it is low, and it is not very hand- some, but seems to be improving. It was originally settled most- ly by Dutch people, and there are three Dutch churches. The other public buildings, worthy of notice, are the Court- House and Academy ; which last is said to be a very thriving seminary. The lands in the neighbourhood appear rough and rocky ; but we verc informed that they raised pretty good crops, particularly of grass, which had, throughout the whole of this district, flourished very much of late, in consequence of the application of plaster of Paris The afternoon continued wet, and the road was very bad, through a level country, about 14 miles, when we passed a small place called Kingston ; from whence the road is much improved, iuid proceeds through a fine country, and by an easy ascent, about NEW JERSIY. in three miles to Princeton, which we reached a little after dark. We should have stopped here for the night ; but there was a Commence^ mciU ball at the stage-house, and we were informed that we must move on to Trenton, albeit the night was wet and dark, and we were sufficiently tired. I was mortified at this decision, for T wish- ed very much to see the ball. i. v : ; During the short time we stopped, I went into the ball-room, where the dance was going on, and almost the first object that salute u •?. * Of the town of Princeton I could, of course, see nothing at that late hour, but I learned that it is handsomely situated on elevated ground, from whence there is a very fine view, through a well cul- tivated adjoining country. The number of dwelling-houses is a- bout 100, and the college is reputed one of the best seminaries in the United States. Having got a number of the students as passengers, the stage was crowded ; and, on our way to Trenton, it broke down by one of the ! braces giving way. It is customary in Britain to provide against an accident of this kind, by having an iron chain to supply the place { of the brace; and the contrivance being a very simple one, I thought it would have been adopted here ; but to my surprise there j was no chain, and the defect was supplied by breaking down an ho- nest man's fence, and thrusting a rail under the carriage, while the passengers stood almost up to the ancles in the mud, holding it up. Being fixed in this way, we jolted on to Trenton, which we reached near 12 o'clock at night. \m :'>f iU^^.;l i i::u Hilt* ti.ii; ■ lif; ' 112 NEW JERSEY. i Trenton fs the capital of New Jersey, and is situated on the Del- aware river, 30 miles from Philadelphia, and 66 from New York. It is a handsome little town, containing about 200 houses. The publiic buildii^ are the state-house, a court-hou^e, an episcopal church, a presbyterian church, a quaker meeting-house, and me- thodist meeting*hou8e. CHAPTER XXU. ■*'■ '' ' ^Kew Jersey Is situated between 39" and 41" 20' north latitude, and 1* 3(r and 3** 6' east longitude. Its length is 145 miles, and \Xs breadth 60. It contains 7920 square miles, being^ 5,068,800 acres. The state extends along the sea-coast upwards of 100 miles, which, with the exception of the highlands of Never Sink, is low and sandy ; but it is more elevated and more diversified towards the interior. The northern part swells out into high lands, and, to* wards the extremity of the state, there are considerable mountains. The principal rivers have been already noticed, and there are no o- Aer of any note, though small streams are numerous, and supply the state abundantly with mill-seats. The state abounds with minerals ; producing iron, lead, copper, gypsum, coal, and slate ; and there are several useful clays and ochres; About one-fourth part of the state is sandy nnd barren ; there are in the southern parts extensive pine barrens, and cedar swamps. Large tracts of salt meadow run along Delaware bay, and the rivers which fidl into the Atlantic. Along the rivers and small streams in the interior of the state there is much good land ; and the hilly district abounds with fertile valleys. ;r-',fH\=' r?, ; ^ nfj^jftrff. j; i^.^^ ^ ''The climate is strikingly different in the different sections of the state. In the northern part there is clear settled weather, and the winters are excessively cold, but the whole is very healthy : in the southern part, particularly towards the extremity, the climate ap* proaches to that of tlie southern states, and is subject to very sud* den changes. New Jersey was first settled by the Dutch, in 1618 ; but falling into the hands of the English, it was granted, along with New York, by Charles 11.^ to his brother, the Duke of York. It wus a* yEW J«SEY. U3 e, and !•» 3(r nd its breadth moQg the ^M «Utes tbfit ^i:G«d!td to tiiie W«on, M»d *^nt fixe ^iJele- gate» to coi^gress, ia 177*. Jt bore « yery f^^ve part jn the «w- te*t for indq)€H»d©nce, nod was ioi^ 4h* iluiHU:? iQf .wgr, in ivhi<^» jt ftuff«;red gr«Rt losses w4 privations. ;It Maw sun^ ^Vtq $Q»ator« m\d •ix iseproientatives to the congress of the Usitiid .Stittes. The state is 4ivyid«d into ^3 counties and IQO towpship^ and contains 211,149 inhabitants, including 12)422 slaves; bei|>g ^P* wards of 26 persons to the square mile. The principal towns have betti akeady mentioned, besides which diere are Burlington and Bordeyifosfin, two considerable places on the Delaware, and Salem and Patterson, in the interior ; which lust is a manufacturing town, 4t t;he lall?^/ P.»3saic, Mc«ady noticed, and is rising fast into importance. The country is pretty well improved by thriving fnrms, and the roads and bridges are numerous. I did not hear of any canals, but I learned t^ere was one projected across the country from Brunswick to Trenton, which, if carried into ef- fect, will certainly be a great improvement, as it will complete the inland navigation between New York and Philadelphia. New Jersey is settled with frugal industrious farmers. The pro- duce of the state is wheat, rye, barley, oats, Indian e . - , The general dissemination of knowledge througfi the state has not been attended to according to its importance. There are nu" merous seminaries for the higher branches of literature; but the . state seems defective in common schools, I keep the pM'ish schools in Scotland constantly in my mind, and I regret when the system for the instructiun of the mass of the people does not come up to tiiat standard. • 114 TRAVELS IN The government of this state is vested in ft governor, legislative council, and general assembly. The council consists of on« member, and the asseinbly of three members, from each countv, chosen annually by the^eople. The governor is chosen annually by the council and assembly. The qualification for a voter is £, 50. The state is prospering, and increasing in population and wealth. '! \, v.i. l^H^^ CHAPTER XXIII. Trenton hidgef^-Bristoli— Philadelphia, Thursday, September 2Sth, we set out from Trenton, at 6 o'clock in the morning, and crossed the river Delaware by Tren- ton bridge. Tliis bridge was finished in February last, and b^ ing one of the most elegant in the United States, and different io construction from any I have seen before, it merits a particular description. It consists of five arches of 194 feet span each, built of white pine, and supported on stroi^ stone piers; the wholt length is 9.70 feet ; the breadth 36. The arches are elevated over liead by substantial rafters, and the platform, or carriage-way, is suspended by these arches, and forms a plane the whole length of tlie bridge. Above the top of the arches the roof is covered in, so as to secure the whole from the weather ; and the carriage-way is divided into two sections, each of which is apropriated to tra- vellers in one direction. At the entrance, passengers are directed to take the road on the right hand. Upon tlie whole, this is a very elegant piece of architecture. It was commenced in 1801, and is the plan of a mechanic of the name of Burr. The Delaware is a noble river. Its head waters are in New York state, from whence it pursues a south-cast course, forming the boundary between that state and Pennsylvania, about 60 miles, and thence forms the boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey, upwards of 100 more to this place, where there are falls, but of no great height. From hence it increases in breadtb, dunng a course of 36 miles, to Philadelphia, where it is a mile | broad. As it proceeds downwards it gradually increases, and, 40 miles below ^Philadelphia, at Newcastle, it is two miles broad, thence it spreads out into a spacious bay, and fidls into the At* j PlNKSYLVAmA. 115 >r, legislative nsists of on« each county, »sen annually or a voter is opulation and n Trenton, at ware by Tren- last, and b^ id different in I s a particular lan each) built ;rs ; the whole e elevated over irriage-way, is vhole length of is covered in, e carriage-waj riated to tra- s are directed |hole, this is » iCed ill 1804, are in New aurse, forming^ lia, about 60 ; isylvania andl irhere there are ] es in breadth, Ire it is a mile [ ises, and, 40 miles broad,] into the At* lantic ocean 70 miles below Newcastle, its outlet behig 25 miles wide. It is navigable for vessels of any burden to Philadelphia ; for sloops and other small craft to Trenton, where it is obstruct- ftl by the falls; but above thera it is navigable for boaU upwards of lOOmiles. ^ ? » , ... .• v - - -^ i •• n^ Immediately after passing this river we were in the state of Pennsylvania ; and among the ftrst houses tliat attracted my no- tice was Morrisville, the seat of general Morcau. It is a fina house, with elegant grounds about it; and I have no doubt but the general finds it a happy retreat from the turbulent scenes of Europe. I could not pass this place without a great variety of reflections. General ^foreaii bore an active part in the French revolution, and supported a character in arms, rivalled only by that of Bonaparte himself. He fought for republican principles, and br^vpd every danger to establish them in his native land. His reputation rose with his extraordinary merit, and he was la the full tide of popularity in the republic, which he had served to establish, when, by a sud(]en transitioii of foirtune, that republic vanished from the earth : his great rival in anps was elevated to a throne ; and he was exiled to the banks of the Pelaware. But happy, in my mind, is he who is thus exiled. A republican iinda here a republic, an4 the only republic on the &ce of tlie earth that ever deserved the name ; where all are under the protection of equal laws ; of laws made by themselves : where every man " sits under his viiie, and uiider his fig-tree, ant) none to make him afraid ;" and where, far removed from the turbulence and din of maddened Europe, he can enjo^ << health, and peace, and sweet content," From Trenton bridge we travelled 10 miles, to Bristol. The road was good, and passes partly by the river side, through a level country, but the soil is rather sandy. The banks of the river &re very beautiful, and adorned with many elegant villas. Bristol is a handsome village, oil tlie banks of the river, and contains probably 100 houses, many of them elegaiit. A few miles beyond Bristol we passed a considerable qreek, and continuing our course near the river side, through a v^ry fine country, repassed through Frankfordf five miles from Philadelphia. This is an elegant vil- lage, containiiig i^bout IQO houses, and is a place of considerable resort for the inhabitants of Philadelphia in the summer seasoii, A little beyond this we passed a rising ground, called Prospect . 116 TKAVBIS Ilf HiU^ Where ^ hilA'tke fiiM view of Philadelphia. Tho rond Wtfitbroad^ and wdU ittetsUed with brokeh stones, which reiv ifentrmeMing prtttj roa^^ but ii ivgood uponf the whoie. Tiif •oanftry it no(# rith and leTel,^ abounding inr gflirden»a(nd orchards; and exhibits every appearance of the approach to a great city. On emeriAg the cky, 1 was qvitc delighted with the regularity of the stretilis and bemrty oS th« bvildioigs. The stage drove nearly ' » libile through the chy, and I took up nvy residence 9t the Man* •M^-H'..- ■ 1?;'"/' ':'.; .' CHAFTER XXIV, ' V\; * ' • ; ,* ' > Phil»deljfMa, Tftll? city is situated between the Delaware and Schuylkill xivers, about four miles above their junction. It is laid out on ,4 on elegant plan, with streets crossing one another at right angles, '% and extends between the two rivers, being upwards of two miles .in length, frofn edst to west, and a little moi^ than one mile ia breadth. There are large suburbs to the north and south, on the Delaware river, called the Northern Liberties, Kensington, and Southwark ; and these extend upwards of a mile to the north, and half a mile south of the city, making the extreme lengthen the Delaware river nearly three miles. But the city is cjosely built to the westward only about a mile ; the buildings on the Remaining part, towards the Schuylkill, being very thinly scatter- * ed. It is however rapidly filling up in that direction. High or Market-street is about 100 feet broad, alad running the whole length of the city, is terminated by the Schuylkill bridge to tlic tfrest, A street of equal breadth, called Broad-street, crosses it in the middle, where there is a large area, called Centre-Square, on which the water- works are built. The streets running pa- ratlel to High-street are named after various trees' said to have been found on the ground on which they are laid out. T^ tlw , north, are Mulberry, Sassafrast and Vine; tc fUe south> Ckesnut^ ^ ff^inuif Locust, Spruce^ Pine, &tid Cedat. Tlie cross Greets are ntunbttred according to situation from the rivers, thus, Front, iSi^oond, Third, and so on, to Thirteenth, on the Delaware side; and irom Front to Eighth, wa the Schuylkill side. Mulbeny PBKNSYLVANli. 117 Dtreet is 60 feet wide, and all the other stf^s are 50. It wm the intention of th« benevolent projector of tlMf citfy that Front- street, on the Delaware^ ahould have been the eastern l>oundary, gnd that the space between that and the river should have been (inverted into public ground, useful and ornameiHal to the city ; but tin's eleganf plan has given way to the avidity foi^ conimev- pial gainy and thia spot is now thickly built tip with wharvei^ ^archouseM, and dwelling-houses ; which form a street oo the k)tf ground along the margin of the river, called Water-^roet. In the original plan tltere were a great number of public s<|u«fe84 but several of ihem have also been infringed upon^ though there are still many left, which are very ornamental to the city. This city contained, by the census of 1800, 81,000 inhabitiints, and, as there has been a great increase since, they are now es- timated at upwards of 90,000 ;*' and the buildings at upwards of J4,000. The city is composed almost wholly of bri Carpenter's H^H) College,. Acadenriyv Library* two theattes^ four, banks^ five quajcer meeting-houses, six preoby* terian churches, three episcopal chnrehesy four Ronunt catholic l^liurches, three methodist churches^ ra»d one eacb Ibr German Calvinists, Qerman irutherians, Swedish Lulherasis, MoTiwiansi baptists, Jews, and universalists.f :i; vi^;- The State-House is rem^kakle aai being the phue from vAldti^e Ithe independence of the United States was first proclaimed ; and the legislatUYe qf the United. State* held their meelingt it tlM idjtiniiig^ buUdingS) while Philadelpliia was the seatef t)i»gMitf* ! * py thb e«ntu* of 1810, the city «nd coMntry contain 1 1 1,210. t Auri1lwMifcAt)Mhisrttf#(lSl^'6utfdtn^; 118 TRAVBLS IN ral government. When the legislature of Pennsylvania continu- ed at Philadelphia, they held their meetings in the iSiate- House; but the seat of government has been removed to Lancaster, and that building now contains Pealc's Museum. There are three market-houses in the city, the principal of which is in High-street. It is a very handsome building, about a quarter of a mile in length, and is well suplied with provisions. The price of provisions is somewhat cheaper than in New York. Beef, mutton, and veal may be quoted at from 6 to 8 cents per pound, and, generally speaking, all other articles of domestic production may be quoted as one-fifth cheaper than in the latter city. The manufactures of this city are rising into great importance. The principal are leather of every description, a great variety of wood and iron work, ships, ropes, fermented and distilled liquors, earthenware, tin plate, hats, stockings, and a ,vast variety of cloths of various descriptions. The printing business is better establish- ed here than in any other place on the continent, and gives em* ployment to a great number of paper-mills, and all classes con* nected with the book-trade : printers, type-founders, engravers, bookbinders, and booksellers and stationers. The whole export trade of the state is carried on through this city. The exports are grain, flour, and provisions, flaxseed, timber, various iron utensils, cord not conduct their business in the sax^ei trashing style which is dope by some coipmerci^l cities; but C9nfine themselves within PENNSYLVANIA. 1 19 bounds, and secure what they gain. Education is on an excellent footing : besides the larger seminaries already noticed, there ar« numerous academies and schools throughout the city. The arts and sciences have been long cultivated. A Philosophical Society was established in the year 1 769, and they have published several volumes of their transactions. The Library Company was esta- blished as early as the year 1731. — The other societies of greatest importance are the College of Physicians, instituted for the purpose of promoting medical, anatomical, and chemical knowledge; the Pennsylvanian 'Society for promoting the Abolition of Slavery, and the relief of free Negroes unlawfully held in bondage ; the Pennsyl- vania Academy of Fine Arts ; the Agricultural Society ; Premium Society ; a Society for alleviating the Miseries of Public Prisons ; Humane Society ; Marine Benevolent Society ; St. Andrew's So- ciety ; Scota Thistle Society ; St. Potrick's Society ; Hibernian So- ciety ; St. George's Society ; Welsh Society ; French Benevolent Society ; German Society. The Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania ia established here, and tltere are 15 or 16 lodges of free-masons. The police of the city is said to be better regulated than that of any other on the continent. It appears to be much better than New York. There are public scavengers, who clean the streets at stated times, and the side pavements are generally washed every morning. These are broad, and generally well paved with brick, and, the streets being lined with rows of treees, a walk through the city in a summer morning is delightful. The city is elevated 50 or 60 feet above the river, in consequence of which there is an ample descent for the water; and the streets are well supplied with common sewers, which serve to carry off all the filth ; and they are kept sweet by the supply of fresh water from the water- works, which is constantly pouring into them from every part of the city. This supply of water also keeps the streets pure by running along the gutters, so that almost every street has a little stream on each side of it; and this circumstance, though ap- parently trivial, is probably of more importance than is generally imagined. •"' ' They have helre, as well as in New York, adopted the plan of unking necessaries ; but I was informed that those in Philadelphia must be regularly cleaned, and I did not observe the smell to be near so otfensive m at New York : both citie8» however, in n^ J90 TKAVBLS in opinicxi) wroukl odoiit of great improvaoent in tliis Afoppitaiit lMran«h of police.* The inhabitants geiaerally bayd firoth OQrQpi^xJkMp, the iuji- cutlon of leoiperancv and healths Their dreM ami waniiers af# {jfAlty mucJi assunilated to .those of New Yprk, ,although thetie if a considerable sprinkliAg of tbeqttaker habiits difiuHiod tbrougii (lie c^tyi which may at first view, to a stranger, appear more foT" inid^pig and a^atctrc i bdit, on the othw iiand« the attem,iQn the/ fio P»yi being ^he /^uJit of conwderatipn^ may |>robably be nions MQcere, aiKi ti^^ir j^ifxidsmp of a kind i;hat wiU wqar .w«|L CHAPTER XXV. „ ..,-_- --mU qf ^ehuylkilU \ HE two first days of my stay in Philadelfjhia were wet and stormy, so that I could see but little. I took a ride, in company with a friend, to t^e floating bridge on the Schuylkill river, nenr its junction with the Delaware. The river is here about SOO yards broad, and the country between it and Philadelphia is level, rich, and well cultivated. -^ '' On the 27th, I went to see the vvatcr-Wofks. The building whidi contains the reservoir is in the Centre-Square, being the most elevated ground in the city. It occupies a square of 60 feet; from the middle there is a circular tower, 4^ feet in diameter, and 60 feet high, which contains the reservoir; and -this tower is terminated by a dome, which gives it a very handsome appearance. The water is conveyed to this building from the Schuylkill, a dis- tance of neariy a mile, through a circular brick tunnel, of «jx «* ^nk tn^^fiWNfriw .iM^ \ ,bclic.M*> .(;o(iunqn thrp.ii^out the United States, and ^ve, at fiDUt.view, the appear.ince uf .coittributing to clean^ness, as ttiey are cle]>osi- l9rie« nuder ground for every kind wf tilth. But it is to be observetl, that the iiltii collected in them is constantly generating a most oflTeniiive ,and pifsmidoui* gs«, which mingles with the atmosphere, is breathed every day by the inhabitants of JUrge ^-'iM^, #tnd 4ui|8t .cQntKiMM^ K> #epder .thera uphealtliy. Would it nojt he wise to /prevent .th!e clcan^ once « w cck or oflcncr, and have this and all othvr lil^ deposited in dung-hills in the country, from whence it may be taken to toanurc tli« liround. )n some cities that have come uhd^ my obsetvation, the ftridp ob^ocd h^ ti»e nriauturc, is BMrc than equal to the expence af keeping them clean. PENNSYLVANIA. K foci diameter, linving a full of six inches toward the Scliuylkill. 'I'lie water is received from the ISchuylkill into n substantial basin and canal, and from thence is raised by a steam-engine to the level of the aqueduct, which conveys it to the Centre-Square. It is there received into another basin, and thence, by another steam- t'Hifinc, is elevated to the circular tower, from whence it issues through wooden pipes, in all directions, to supply the city. Tlie whole expence of the works was about 150,000 dollars {£.33,150 sterling.) The work was undertaken by the corporation, who raised the funds partly by a tax, and partly by loan, allow- ing the subscribers to the loan six per cent, interest for their money, and the use of the water free for three years, for every lOO dollars subscribed. - . Tiic city is supplied with water by contract, and the contrac- tor is obliged to supply three millions of gallons per day if requir- ed. The annual expense is six thousand dollars for one million of gallons per day, and for any additional quantity, up to two millions, the expense is at the rate of half that sum. The engine is 40 horse power, and can raise, if necessary, four millions and a half of gallons per day ; so that the supply must be abundant for every purpose. Th;; water is soft and good ; but it is not filtered, and is, of course, sometimes muddy, though never so much so as to render it unfit for use ; and it is always wholesome. It is of great importance to these works that they are the property of the public, and not sub- ject to individual speculation, in consequence of which the supply is liberal, and there are fountains in every street, to which the whole public have access. The water can be used for watering the streets, or extinguishing fires, as otten as may be necessary ; while every householder, by paying a reasonable compensation, can have a hy- drant in any pai't of his premises that he pleases, even to the attic !itory. In short, this water is a great luxury, and is, in my opinion, ot incalculable advantage to the health, as it certainly is to the con- venience and comfort of the community. . * ' ... ' , The supply of cities with water is a subject of great unportance ; and it is to be hoped that the inhabitants of other places in the United vStatcs will profit by the laudable example set them by the citizens of Philadelphia, and the happy effects which have resulted from it. Tlic power of the steam-engine, properly applied, can send water to any city, anil cities are generally sufficiently opulent to bear the i'xpense. All that is wanting is a proper plan, put in motion by Id J^ TltAVFIJ IM «•'(■ 1 1 ■tit. tome of the leading men. On thin branch I hare to notice that a great suving can be made from the ap|)licution of the forcing pump, by which means the water cun be conveyed to any reasonable height and distnnce, by one engine. The conductor mast, in that case, be constructed of metallic tubes, which can be made of any diame- ter, according to the supply of water wanted ; and they muitt be funiiiihcd with valves, to prevent the reaction of the water. I shall also notice in this place that filtration of the water is a great improvement, and it can be easily done, to any extent what- ever, by the application of a plan, the invention of a very ingeniutu mechanic in Scotland, which I shall here communicate. I shall tlescribe it from the model which I saw ; the application to any scale is easy. The model consisted of a cask, in which ua» inserted a false bottom, about three inches above the real bottom i the fulsc bottom was perforated with small holes, and in the middle was a tube, elevated a little above the top of the cask, and which formed a communication through the false bottom to the spoce be- low : the cask was filled with gravel of a proper kind for filtration. The water was conveyed through the tube into the space between the two bottoms, where it deposited the greater part of its sediment, and rising upwards through the gravel, on the principle of a spring, ran over the top of the cask, pure and transparent. The effect was as complete as could be imagined. The water that he used was very muddy, and was, by this simple contrivance, rendered perfect* ly pure; the contrast being so great, that when it was exhibited in the different states in clear wine-glasses, the one, to use the invent- or's expression, was like punch, the other like pure spirits. He informed me that the gravel answered better at the time I viewed it than it did at first, probably in consequence of the mud already deposited attracting that in the water. He had not used it long enough to ascertain the period at which it would get too much choakcd up by the mud ; but he had a contrivance to obviate the effect of it, equally simple and efficacious with all the rest. It con- sisted in opening a sto^vcock below, and letting the water filter downwards, by which means it would wash all the sediment along with it. I have seen different filters, some of them upwards, some down- wards, and some lateral ; but I never saw any so simple and so complete as this. .' /*t ^.^ „ ./ ^.^ v... ,._ ■ The best mode of applying the plan upon a large scale would, I PENNSYLVANIA. 135 ry ingeniotu think, be this: to have a reservoir of t'rom 10 to '20 feet deep, uiui of any dimcoHions that niigiit be waiitetl for the purpose intended ; have it lined and bedded with hewn stone, and divided into three apartments; let one of these receive the water, where it will deposite ttssedimffit; from thence let it run into the second, containing the filter; and fvom thence be conveyed into the third, clear for use. It is to in observed that the first of these i^iurtuients must be e- levHted a little .ibove the second, and the second above the third ; and the elevation may be great or small, according to the rate at which the water is retjuired to circulate from the one to the other. From the Water-works I went, accompanied by a friend, to see the State Prison. I was introduced to one of the inspectors, who was al»to oi>e ol' the founders of the institution. He accompanied us, and explained the whole system very umch to my satisfaction. This benevolent institution owes its origin to the enlightened ci- tizens of Philadelphia. Its object is to receive the vicious, and, if possible, to reclaim them to virtue ; and is an admirable constrast to the sanguinary punishments of old governments, who, for even pecuniary offences, send them off to the other world to be reclaim- ed there. This institution does not admit offenders till after con- viction, when they are received from the different parts of the state. It is hence called the State-Prison. When a criminal is received, his name is put upon record, or, to use a commercial idea, he be- comes a partner in the concern, and an account is accordingly rais- ed for him in the books. Inquiry is then made what he can do; if he can work at any trade, he is taken to the apartment where that branch is carried on, and has his task assigned him. If he can work at no trade he is sent to saw marble. As a stimulus to industry, the convicts get credit in the books for the proceeds of their labour, and are debited with the expense of their board and clothing, which however is not very c^^pensive, as every thing is conducted upon an economical plan, and when tliey are released, should their earn- ings be more thai) tl^e es^pence of maintenance, the balance is paid to them, ' ' Almost every trade is carried on in the prison ; and the institu- tion is so organized that every necessary of life is attended to by the convictn themselves ; baking, cooking, scrubbing the rooms, and so on ; and every thing is kept remarkably clean. The food i^ wl^oleiioi^e and nutritive, consisting of Indian meal, bread, and meat^ The drinji: is molasses and water ; and no spirituous liquors are admitted within the walls of the prison. 124 TnAVELS IN i Tliere is a separate apartment tor the reception of female con- victs, wliere the various parts of female labour are carried on, and it is otherwise under the same system of management as that tbi the males. I visite? * The whole institution is under the direction of competent man- agers; and, to insure proper discipline, there is a gradation of punishments within the prison, consisting chiefly of solitary con- finement in cells. I notice this subject particularly, because it is, so far as I know, of pure American origin, and is happily adapted to the genius ut the government of the country, mild, just, and merciful. Some of the other states already noticed, have imitated the example of Penn- sylvania ; and I was informed that the plan was likely to begone, rally adopted thrc it the Union. * We next visited t.ie Library, the account of which I shall trans- cribe from the Continuation of the Life of Dr. Franklin. - " The promotion of literature had been little attended to in Penn- sylvania. Most of the inhabitants wev( too much immersed in bu- siness to think of scientific pursuits ; and those few whose inclina- tions led them to study, found it difficult to gratify them, from the want of sufficiently large libraries. In such circumstances the estab- lishiiient of a public library was an important event. This was first set on foot by Franklin, about the year 1731. Fifty persons sub- seribeil forty shillings each, and agreed to pay ten shillings annu* ally. Tlic number increased, and, in 1742, the company was PENNSYLVANIA. 125 incoriwrntetl by the name of * The Library Company of Phila- delphia.' Several other companies were formed in this city, in imitation of it; and these were all, at length, united with the Library Company of Philadelphia, which thus received a con- siderable accession of books and property. It now contains about 8000 volumes on all subjects, a philosophical apparatus, and a irood beginning towards a collection of natural and artificial cu- riosities, besides landed property of considerable value. The com- pany bave lately built an elegant house in Fifth-street, in the front of which will be a marble statue of their founder, Benja- min Franklin. " This institution was greatly encouraged by the friends of literature in America and in Great Britain. The Penn family distinguished themselves by their donations. — Among the earliest friends of this institution must be mentioned the late Peter Col- linson, the friend and correspondent of Dr. Franklin. He not only made considerable presents himself, and obtained many others from his friends, but voluntarily undertook to manage the business of the company in London, recommending books, pur- chasing and shipping them. His extensive knowledge, and zeal for the promotion of science, enabled him to execute this impor- tant trust with the greatest advantage ; and he continued to per- form these services for more than 30 years, and uniformly refused to accept of any compensation. During this time, he communi- cated to the directors every information relative to improvements and discoveries in art J, agriculture, and philosophy. •-,1 " The beneficial influence of this institution was soon evident The cheapness of the terms rendered it accessible to every one. Its advantages were not confined to the opulent. The citizens in the middle and lower walks of life were equally partakers of them. Hence a degree of information was extended among all classes of the people, which is very unusual in other places. The example was soon followed. Libraries were established in various places, and they are now become very numerous in the United States, particularly in Pennsylvania. It is to be hoped that they will be still more widely extended, and that information will be every where increased. This will be the best security for maintaining our liberties. A nation of well-informed men, who have been taught to know and prize the rights which God has given them, c.tunot be enslaved. It is in the regions of ignorance that tyranny IS6 TRAVELC IN reigns. It flies before the light of science. Let the citizens of America^ then, encourage institutions calculated to diffuse know. ledge amongst the people ; and among these, public libraries are not the least important." The library has been since removed to the building alluded to in the above extract It is elegant and commodious, and has a statue of Franklin in firont, the donation of the late Mr. Bing* bam. The libraiy now consists of more than 14,000 volumes, in all the various departments of literature. It is divided into shares of 40 dollars each; but the number is unlimited. The subscriber} are at present upwards of 500. Besides the purchase of the share, each subscriber pays two dollars annually, to the support of the institution. The library is open every day, except Sunday, from 2 o clock to sunset, and the subscribers may either read in the library, or be accommodated with books to read in their houses. The rule relative to strangers and non-subscribers is very liberal. They may have the use of the books in the library, while it is open, free of expense, or, on depositing the value, may borrow books and peruse them at home, on paying a small sum for the use of them. r.-.ii. :;■*'.,..'•- ;cf , t - : - ■ I may take occasion to remark here that I consider 40 dollars pf entry tp a library too high, and two dollars of annual subscrip. tion too low. The great object of a library is to disseminate knowledge. To secure that object, the library should be within the reach of every member of the community. But every one (iannot afford to give 40 dollars at once, while the greater part of those who wish to read can afford more than two dollars a year. The class of people to whom an institution of this kind is the most valuable is young men entering into the world, many of whora could not, or would pot willingly, advance 40 dollars, but who would cheerfully give four or five dollars a year. Would it not be a wise regulation to accommodate such ? V The most floarishing library, in point of funds, that I have heard of, is one in London, where the entry is one guinea, and the annual subscription is the same. It is entirely public, unclog- ged with any idea of tt^V* or shares. The subscribers are above 1000, and the income ia, of course, ^bove 1000 guineas a year. The Oku^ow public librfiry is on s simUw plan, but with more FBMNSYLVANIA. 187 limited ^ands, and is the most thriving institution of the kind I (hgt has ever come under my observation.* From the library we passed to Peale's Museum, which is a very I excellent collection, principally of subjects in natural history, and does honour to the ingenuity and taste of the proprietor. Among other curiosities it contains an entire skeleton of the mammoth, well worth the attention of the naturalist. c: I took a walk to the Schuylkill bridge, which is an el^ant latructure, consisting of three arches, built of wood, supported by strong stone piers, and covered in on the top. The length of the bridge is 550 feet, besides the abutments and wing walls, which are 750 more. The span of the middle arch is 198 feet, that of (he other two 150 each. It is 42 feet wide. The footways on each side occupy five feet each, and the carriage-way, which is di« ivided into two parts, S2. The bridge, which was six years in build- I ing, was finished last year, and the expence was 235,000 dollars. September 28. Having visited every thing I wished to aee [in the city, I was invited by a party of friends to take a jaunt in the country. We crossed Schuylkill by the foresaid bridge, and travelled four or five miles, to see a fiax spinning-mill, belonging to a gentleman from Dundee. The mill was not at work, but we were informed that the business was doing very well ; the pro- duce was mostly twine. Being joined by the Dundee manufac- turer, we passed on to the Falls of Schuylkill, where, at a very pleasant situation on its banks, we stopped for dinner. The Schuylkill river rises in the mountains, about 120 miles I north-west of Philadelphia, and is navigable from Reading down- I wards to the upper falls, three miles above where we stopped. The tide rises to the lower falls, where the river is about 150 yards broad. The falls are much broken by huge masses of I stone, with which the bed and banks of the river abound. The I banks are highly romantic, and are ornamented with many ele- gant country seats. While dinner was preparing we had a dish of politics, in which I frequent appeals were made to me ; but I declined taking any { share in the argument, for I did not fiiUy agree with either I party. Indeed I saw pretty plainly that self-intere^ was at the bottom of it, and that the party names they assumed were merely . * Sm App«odUx, No. V. 128 TRAVELS IN Other terms for importeis and maniifacturers, who conceiving that their interests were opposed to each other, blamed the government of the United States — ^the one party for doing too much in sup- port of domestic manufactures, and the other for doing too little. But all was discussed in good humour. '"^ • ^ ;.♦,.. i After dinner we returned, through a pleasant, well-cultivatetl country, by an excellent turnpike road, and in our way stopped at Harrowgate, where there is a medicinal spring, which is a good deal frequented in the summer season. We returned to the city in tlie evening. The day was clear and pleasant, and the air cool and healthy. ..... . I'r* '-fVK V :■- H; to J/ f! ' CHAPTER XXVI. V?': .«?»'V Pentisi/lvania. This fine state is situated between 39° 43' and 42° north la- titude, and S" 20' east, and 3° 30' west longitude. It is 320 miles long, from east to west, and i 62 miles broad ; and contains 49,390 square miles, being 31,609,G00 acres. The face of the country is remarkably diversified. The south- east part, to the distance of about 60 or 70 miles from Philadel- phia, is an undulating country, swelling in some places into con- siderable hills ; but it is not mountainous. The mountainous re- gion then commences, and extends across the country about 120 miles. The mountains are generally in long chains, running north-east and south-west. Between the chains, the country 'u rough and hilly, but there are many fine valleys, and the whole abounds with picturesque scenery. To the north and west of tlie mountains, the country is elevated, abounding with hills, vallcvs and rich scenery; which continue about 120 miles, to the ex- tremity of the state. The country is remarkably well watered. Lake Erie is situated on the north-west, and the Delaware bay on the south-east, bv both of which there arc fine outlets, the one affording direct and speedy communication with the Atlantic Ocean, the other com- municating with it by the more circuitous course of the river ISt. Lawrence; while it is a link in the chain ofaninliind navigation. extending through the lakes upwards* of a thousand miles. To i»ENNSYLVANIA. 129 the soiith-wesl, the state communicates with the Ohio, having an outlet through the Mississippi, to the Gulf of Mexico; and from the middle there is an outlet through the Susquehannah to the Chesapeak bay. The rivers Delaware and Schuylkill have been already men- tioned. The most important of the others I shall notice in theix order from east to west. The Lehigh rises among the mountains, between the Delaware and Susquehannah, and running a very crooked passage, emer- ges from the mountains abont 50 miles from its source, and from thence runs through a fine country SO miles, during which it is navigable, to Easton, where it falls into the Delaware. The Susquehannah is a noble river, and appears on the map like a large crooked tree, with numerous branches. The head waters of the eastern branch are numerous, and rise in the state of New York, not far from the waters of the Mohawk river. Passing in- to the state of Pennsylvania, it makes a remarkable bend, called appropriately the Big Bend ; from thence it makes a stretch into New York, and passing to the westward, about 40 miles, turns again to the southward, and passes into the state of Pennsylvania, where it forms a junction with the Tioga river at Tioga point. It then runs a south-east course, about 70 miles ; when making a sudden bend, at a right angle, it runs a south-west course, about 80 miles, and unites with the western branch, at Northumber- land. The river is now nearly half a mile broad, and flows through the mountains, nearly a south course of 40 milws, to where it receives the Junita river. From thence it makes a con- siderable bend to the eastward, and running about 10 miles, it emerges from the mounta,ins, above Harrisbarg; and keeps a iK)utk-east course about 80 miles, when it falls into the Chesa- peak bay. The Tioga river has its head waters pairtly in Pennsylvania, and partly in New York, where some of the streams a{^roach within a few miles of the waters of the St. Lawrence. These all unit« in New York state, towards the Painted Post, and run a south- east coarse of nearly 40 miles, to the junction with the Susqus* hannah. The western branch of the Susquehannah is formed by many •treams, beyond the Allegany mountains, bome of them approaching within a few miles of the waters, of the St Lawrcncy^ «nd othm 17 130 TENNSYLVANIA. ■ 4- within a few miles of the waters of the Ohio and Mississippi, and runs a very circuitous course, upwards of 200 miles* principally among the mountains, to its junction with the east branch. The Junita river rises on the Allegany mountains, near tlie head waters of the Conemaugh, a branch of the Ohio, and pass- ing through the mountains to the eastward, by a very serpentiDe course, it falls into the Susquchannah as aforesaid, its length be- ing nearly 200 miles. The length of the Susquehannah, from the Chesapeak bay to the head of the eastern branch, is upwards of 450 miles ; and the whole river, including its branches, waters a country nearly 200 miles square. It is navigable for large vessels only a few miles, iVnd there are many islands, rocks, and falls, which obstruct th« navigation for boats ; but it is presumed that these can be remov- ed, and that, by the aid of some locks and canals, it can be rm. dered navigable, almost to the source of the eastern branch. The western branch is navigable, for boats, nearly 150 miles, and the Junita river nearly 120. From this short account, the impor- tance of improving the navigation of this fine river will be readily inferred. The Allegany River rises on the highest land in the state, to the westward of the mountains, within a tew miles of the head waters of the Genesee River, and the western branch of the Sus- quehannah. It is here called Oswaya Creek, and runs a north- west course into the state of New York, and, passing again into the state of Pennsylvannia, it receives the waters of Conewongo Creek and Chataughque Lake. From thence it runs a winding course, but generally south-west, to Franklin, where it receives the waters of French Creek. From thence it runs a circuitous course about 100 miles, receiving in its progress many tributary streams, particularly Toby's Creek and Kishkemanetas River, and at Pittsburg forms a junction with the Monongahela, which together constitute the Ohio. ; ^,., , ^.. ,.;,* .i^ . ..; -. The Allegany is a navigable river, and the navigation is con- tinued through French Creek to Waterford, from when ce there is a portage of only 14- miles to Lake Firie. The navigation is extended into the country 20 or 25 miles, by the Kishkemanetas River. The Monongahela rises in Virginia, n ear the Laurel mountainSj «rfd| runaiDg by a meandering course about 70 miles, passes into « tv« ll PENNSVLVANI4. 131 this state; soon after which it receives the waters of Cheat River. From thence it continues, by a serpentine course, but nearly in a northern direction, about 60 miles, where it forms a junction with Yoxhiogeni, and thence runs north-west about 14 miles to Pitts- burg. It is navigable in large boats to Brownsville and Mor- gantown, 100 miles from its mouth; and from thence by snjall boats 40 miles farther. The western branch is also navigable hi hiirh water. The Yoxhiogeni rises in Maryland, and runs a course east of north, about 40 miles, before it passes into this state. From thence it runs a north-west course, and, passing the Laurel Hill and Chesnut Ridge, forms the junction with the Monongahela above mentioned ; its whole length being about 100 miles. This state is well supplied with iron ore, and coal abounds in many places, particularly in the western country. Slate is found in several places ; and marble and freestone, of an excellent quali- ty, are found in great abundance. Limestone is also in great plenty, and some copper and lead have been found, but not in sufficient quantity to be wrought. There are many mineral springs in the state. '' ' • . The soil to the east of the mountains is generally good, and a considerable part of it is bedded on limestone. Among the mountains, the land is rough, and much of it poor ; but there are a great many rich and fertile valleys. To the west of the moun- tains, the soil is generally excellent. The climate is very various. On the east side of the Allegany mountains it is pretty similar to Jersey, already described. It is, in common with the other countries east of the mountains, sub- ject to great and sudden changes ; but it is considered more set- tled than immediately on the sea^board, and is perfectly healthy. The winter commences about the 20th of December, and the spring sets in about two weeks, earlier than at New York. A- mong the mountains there is a sharp atmo!»phere, with a clear^ settled sky. There is frost almost every month in the year in some places ; and the extremes of heat and cold arc considerable. The winters may be reckoned a month longer than to the east- ward. The whole region is very healthy. — The country beyond the mountains has a temperate climate, with a considerable por- tion of cloudy weather; and the winters art more humid and mild than on the Atlantic. " '.' «^5 :j'ii Jp- 'H r-i \3t PENNSYLVANIA. The state 'vna first settled by the Swedes and Finlandcrn in 1627} and aftervards by the illustrious Willian Penn, in 1681 ; and from the liberal principles which he adopted, and the en< couragement held out to settlers of all denominations, the country experienced a rapid progress. The state took an active part in the revolutionary war, during great part of which Philadelphia was the seat of congress. A state constitution was framed at an early period of the war ; but a new one was adopted in 1 790. The state now sends two senators and eighteen representatives to congress. Pennsylvania is divided into 37 counties, and upwards of 500 townships. The population, in 1800, was 602,365, including ] 150 slaves, being about 12 persons to the square mile. The state has made rapid progress in national improvements, and abounds in all the conveniences, and many of the luxuries of life. The accumulation of property since the close of the war is Tery great; and, exclusive of Philadelphia, the state contains 12 I towns, in which there are from 1 000 to 4500 inhabitants, amopg which Lancaster, York, Reading, Carlisle, and Pittsburg are the most conspicuQus. Besides these, there are upwards of 90 villages, each containing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants, and the greater part, if not the whole of those towns and villages are increasing in wealth and population. The farm houses are most-^ )y comfortable, many of them elegant, and there are fine barns and other buildings. The state is weU improved by turnpike roads and bridges ; and lately a great degree of attention has been paid to canals. Many turnpike and canal companies have been formed. The agriculture of the state has progressed rapidly, and, is in an advanced state. The staple article is wheat, of which the quanti* ty manufactured into flour annually is immense. It is reckoned the best in the United States, and surpassed by none in the world. The mountainous district is pretty much applied to raising stock. The breed of horses is reckoned the best in the United States. Sheep have of late greatly increased, and thrive remarkably well. All the grains, grasses, and roots common to the other states thrive here. The stock of fruit, particularly peaches, is excellent; and some progress has of late been made in tlie cultivation of the vine. Pennsylvania is said to be one of the greatest manufacturing states in the Union. Domestic manufactures are general throughout VJEW of the roVXTMr round PITTSBUH6 »> \ It '.; Hi^ ■y I ■'*..«■ -;**■ ^'Ji' I ■: r^lB* ■.^^ ?=■»«'?' -v»»' the State; of which nacca, Ih Of wood or leiith n variety other nrf sugar, n The e: flaxseed, of export dollars w to Britain states. 1 goods; w factures fi and 18 yes dollars an whence W( the impor The sti ceding re of ease an ous. The yet seen a to Europe The ciy senate and four years, executive the people declares, * that idl po tural and i tates of th( pelled to I maintain ai ty can, in i of coDsciei to any rel^ FBNIVSTLVANIA. 133 the state; but there are many manufacturers on a large scale, some of which may be enumerated. Of iron there are above thirty fur- naces, besides numerous forges, slitting ohUh, and trip hammerH. Of wood, all sorts of furniture, and implements of husbandry. Of leather, boots, shoes, saddles, bridles, harness, &c. Of wool, A variety of cloths, stockings, and hats. Together with a variety of other articles, such as molt liquors, spirits, glass, ashes, maple- sugar, musquets, powder, shot, balls, cannon, bells, &c. &c. The exports consist principally of grain, flour, iron utensils, flaxseed, soap and candles, lumber, becij pork, &c. The amount of exports, in 1805, was 13,762,252 dollars, of which 4,365,240 dollars was domestic produce. The principal articles of export to Britain are grain and flour, and some cotton from the southern states. The imports consist of East and West India and China goods ; wine, gin, &c. from the continent of Europe ; aytl manu- factures from Britain ; of which the quantity imported is immense, and is yearly increasing. The value of imports is about 12,000,000 dollars annually, of which those from Britain are a full half; from whence we may infer the utility of the trade to both countries, and the importance of a good understanding between them. The state of society may be pretty much inferred from the pre- ceding remarks. The inhabitants have every external appearance of ease and affluence, and they are remarkably civil and industri- ous. There are no beggars to be seen here. Indeed, I have not ^ct seen any in the United States, which is a remarkable contrast to Europe, and bears testimony to the prosperity of the country., The civil government is vested in a legislature, consisting of a senate and house of representatives. The senators are chos'^n for four years, and the representatives annually, by the people. The executive authority is vested in a governor, who is also elected by the people, and holds his office for three years. The constitution declares, " That all men are born equally free and independent ; — that all power is inherent in the people ;-«-that all men have a na- tural and indefeasible right to worship God according to the dic- tates of their own consciences, and no man can of right be com- pelled to attend, erect, or support any place of worship, or to maintain any ministry against his consent ; — that no human authori- ty can, in any case >irhatever, controul or interfere with the rights of conscience, and that no preference shall ever be given, by law, to any religious establishmeiit, or modes of worship ; — ^that el«q^ *i 134 TRAVELS IN ' tioni shall be free and equnl ; — that trial by jury shall be inviolate ;— that no law shall ever be made to restrain the liberty of the press; — that the people shall be secure against all unwarrantable scurc-hcii, and excessive bail shall not be required ; — that the lej^islaturc shnll provide by law for the establishment of schools throughout the state, in such a manner as the poor may be taught gratis ; — the arts and sciences shall be promoted." -<> •» ^^ •» »^ . . , 'iJv( (It >1 I , '< • . :'^;' CHAPTER XXVII. • ' • Delaxmre riveVf — Newcastle. ' ^^ ... >,■' Tuesday, September 30. Having engagetl a passage on board a packet-boat bound to Newcastle, 40 miles below this citj, I went on board this morning at 7 o'clock. The packet was called the Hope, and was one of a line of boats that run between Philadelphia and Newcastle ; from thence there is a communication by stages across the state of Delaware to the Chesapeuk bay, where another line of boats, connected with this, proceeds to Baltimore : the whole called, appropriately. Land and Water Stages. The distance by this route is about 120 miles, and the fare, including bpard, is about three dollars. We set sail with a light wind, and almost right against us ; but the tide was in our favour, and we made tolerable progress till we reached six miles below Philadelphia, where we got aground on a place called the Horse-Shoes where we lay nearly two hours. After getting off, we sailed about four miles, when we were obliged to come to anchor, the wind and tide being both against us. Hav- ing stopped here till three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed an- chor, and sailed eight or ten npiilos ; but the wind was rigj^t ahead, and had increased too much to beat down, so we were obliged again to come to anchor. We once more set sail at 1 1 o'clock at night, and next morning at 5 o'clock, we reached Newcastle. The river at Philadelphia is about a mile broad, and it widens as you proceed downwards. At I^ewcastle it is two miles broad; from thence it spreads oyt into the Delaware baj. The banks of the river are level, and covered witl^ wood ; and the lands rise to a considerable height at a distance, affording in some places pretty good views. The only rivers of note that join th^ Delaware be* DSLAWAni. 13ft twcen Philttdclphiu and Newcastle, are the Schuylkill snd Bran- (lywiiie creek. The post-road to Bultiniore runs along the western bank, and passes through Derby und Chester in Pennsylvania, and Wihniiigton in the state of Delaware; which last is a large town, and has a very pretty appearance when viewed from the river. Oil the east side, in Jersey, are Gloucester, Woodbury, and Swt'dciborough. Newcastle, where we stopped, is a small town containing about 200 houses, some of them handsome. It carries on a considerable trade, principally in wheat. , „_ > ;• ^ . , . . ,„ October 1st. Having taken an early breakfast, at a very good tavern, we set out in the stage for the head of Elk river. The road passes 13 miles through the state of Delaware, and 11 miles through Maryland ; and I found the whole distance a perfect level, . I without a single object to excite attention, or gratify the imagina- tion. The road was very bad, the lands alternately sandy and marshy ; and the people had a sallow sickly colour : the whole in- , I (jicating a country somewhat similar to the low lands of Carolina and Georgia. But I was informed that this was a sort of bye-road, which had been taken by this line of stages, and that it led through tlie very worst part of the country. , • iY^ tr-' t x-vf CHAPTER XXVI n. Delaware. 1 HE state of Delaware is situated between 38» 29' and 39o 47' north latitude, and 1° 15' and 1°56' east longitude. Its greatest llcngth is 100 miles, and greatest breadth about 37; its area being [about 2200 square miles, or about 1,408,000 acres. The face of a great part of the country is level, abounding with Iswamps and stagnant water ; but toward the northern part it is lore elevated, and near its extremity there is a considerable chain |of hiUs. There are numerous creeks in the state, but no rivers of conse^ quence. The principal one is Brandywine creek, which falls into the Delaware at Wilmington, mid on which there are numerous lills and manufactories. The state is well supplied with iron, but I did hear of any other tiineral. 5i.'ifa (la i^ I? !• .il-^'ilV/ 136 DBLAWAHE. The soil, in the soothern part, is low atid oandy, and entirely free of stones ; in the northern part, it is more diversified, and mixed with clay and loam. The climate partakes of the configuration of the country. The Wuthem part has a humid atmosphere, often foggy and unwho]e<, some ; but is mild and temj^ierate in winter. The northern part ii agreeable and healthy. The settlement of this state was coeval with that of Pennsyl. vania. It took an active part in the revolution, and sent two dele- gates to the first congress. The state constitution was adopted in 1792. It now sends two senators and one representative to congressi. Delaware is divided into three counties and 24> districts, culled hundreds. The population, in 1800, was 64,273, including 6143 slaves ; being about 29 to the square mile.. The state of Delaware is considerably improved, and, besides many towns and villages of inferior note, contains several of con- siderable size. The most important are, — Wilmington, already mentioned, a large thriving town, built on the plan of Philadel- phia, consisting of 500 houses, a court-house, jail, and four places for public worship ; it carries on a very considerable trade. AViC- castle has been noticed. Dover is the seat of government, and contains about 600 inhabitants. Lewistawn contains about 750; and Georgetaam about 200. A canal was projected across this state and part of Maryland, to form a junction between the Delaware and Chesapeak, and it is partly cut ; but the work was stopped for want of funds. It may probably be well that it is so ; for it was projected on too small a scale, and, in process of time, will probably give way to one that will admit of sloop navigation. I never observed a finer situation for a canal. Tlie distance between the Delaware and Chusupeui^ is only about 18 or 20 miles, and the county is nearly level, so that few locks will be requisite; and were a canal cut, it would forma connexion between two of the finest rivers in America, and be a link in the chain of an internal navigation of vast extent. The greater part of the inhabitants of this state are devoted to agricultural pursuits, and they have rendered it very productive. The principal produce is wheat, rye, Indian corn, barley, oats, and flax. Grasses are abundant, and thrive very luxuriantly, furiii< ing food for many caitle ; and every sort of vegetable, common to the states already described, thrive well here. The staple produce s wheat, of which a great quantity of fiour is made for e xport. marVIavo. 137 Flonr is the principal itianufacturo carried on in the stat^. The mills on Drandywine creek arc in great perfection, giving employ* meat to upwards of 600 hands ; and they manufacture upwards of half a million of bushels annually. The other articles consist prin- cipally of iron, paper, and himber. In these a very extensive trade is carried on, principally with the other states and the West Indies. The exports in 1805 amounted to 358,383 dollars, of which 280,556 was foreign produce. The principal trade with Britain is carried on through the medium of Philadelphia. A very considerable fund is appropriated by the state to the sup- port of schools, which are pretty numerous, and there are two flour- ishing academies ; one at Wilmington, and the other at Newark. The constitution guarantees equal rights to all the citizens, with* out regard to property or religious opinions. The government is vested in a governor, a senate, and house of representatives, which are elected by ballot, and " every white freeman, of the age of 21y who has resided in the state two years next before the election, shall enjoy the right of an elector. The sons of persons so qualified shall, betwixt the ages of 21 and 22, be entitled to vote, though tliey have paid no taxes." . , „,; ,,, ,. ,^, ,;.;,._. •^i'rft: 1,! !* CHAPTER XXIX. * v^^ Chesapedk bay, — Baltimore. On the Hrst of October, 1806, the day being clear and beautiful, we arrived at Elk river, a branch of Chesapealc bay, here about two miles broad. At one o'clock we stq)ped aboard the packet* and immediately set sail with a fair wind ; and enjoyed our situation very much after the dull scenery we had passed, and the disagree- able jolting in the stage. Having sailed about two miles, we passed a pretty large creek» called Bohe river, and, at half past 3 o'clock, reached the Chefia- peak bay. The view here was extensive and sublime. The bay it about six or seven miles broad, and its banks abound in rich sce- nery, while its waters were animated with a great variety of smal^ vessels. To the north-west is the entrance of the fine river Snsque- hannah, about a mile broad, and its banks swell out Into hills of considerable magnitude, which terminated our vifyr to that dire tavern, a bouse nearly or altogether as much frequented as Evans'. Accompanied by my friend, I went to see the market-house, which is handsomely fitted up, and well supplied with provisions; the prices, I was told, were reasonable, and nearly the same as at Philadelphia. From thence we went to the cotlee-house ; on our way my friend pointed out, through a window, a very handsome lady^ with her child, who he informed me were the wife and child of Jerome Bonaparte.^ The cofice-'house is small, but commodious, and is well supplied with newspapers from every part of the United States. From the coffee-house we went to the library, which con- tains a very excellent collection of books, and is under good man* ngement ; the annual subscription is four dollars. Th-s whole city tppears poor iiahyland. ;}S(9 exhibited a very haaidaome appearance, and the country ro^nd h- boundsin villas, gardens, and well cultivated fields. In the afternoon I went to view the ship-yards, and saw a three- mastetl schooner launched. I was informed that a great many of these vessels are built at Baltimore, and that they are reckoned Uje fastest sailing vessels in the United States. -» « » ^ ' tfi,,.^--.,, *>.».% I spent a very pleasant evening at Bryden-s, along with my friend* in company with the major and the Englishman. The major related a number of marvellous adventures he had met with in his journey, and concluded by informing us that he was to drive tandem all the way to Georgia, and wsw to be accompanied by an elegant lady, and her husband, whom he had engaged as a clerk. To accommodate his suite, he was io take a Jersey waggon, in which he politely oSkned me a passage; but I preferred travelling in my oim way, and de- clined it. The !^nglishman informed me that he waf> to leave Bal- timore next morning by the stage for Cumberland, and was from thence to travel through the interior of the country to New Orleans, a«"'.iling himself of land or water ccmveyance as he might find it inc ■ . ratable and expeditious. .^si. m liiK^Ti. iv-.WJW ( <-A lORE is situated on a branch of the Patapsco river,, called the tiasip, 15 miles frojtn the Chesapeak bay,, and 160 miles from the Atlantic ocean. At the commencement of the American war, it was but an inconsiderable village; but such has been the r^idity of its growth, that it is now the fourth commercial city in tjie United States : it contains upwards of 6000 dwalling-houses, and, by the census of 1800, the inhabitants ajnounted to 26,514, of whom 2843 were slaves : the houses are mostly built of brick, and many of them are elegant; the principal public buildings are 1^ places of public worship, a coi^rt^house, a jail, three market-houses, a poor-house, the exchange, theatre, observatory, assembly-rooms, and library. The monufacturesf of Baltimore are considerable, and consist chiefs ly of ships, cordage, iron utensils, paper, saddlery, boots and shoes, hats, wool and cotton cards, &c. In the adjoining country there are numerous i^ills, furnaces, and forges, which conti'ibute much to the trade of the city. The state pf Maryland, in point of foreign trj\de, ranks the fourth in the union, and as a very great portion of it centres in Baltimore, it must necessarily add greatly to its wealth and importance. A great portion of the export trade is flour, much of which is received from the state of Pennsylvania, through the medium of tha Su»« 140 MARYLAND. quehannah river; and the citizens have a brisk trade in importing and reshipping foreign articles, particularly West Indian produce-, runi) sugar, and co£fee. A great portion of the imports are manu< fiwtured goods from Britain, and, having the supply of an immense back country, i\m is an increasing trade. I learned too that many of the people in the western states give Baltimore the preferences Philadelphia; it is 50 miles nearer to Pittsburg than the latter city, ^ich has a natural tendency to secure a preference ; and the inha* bitants of Maryland, who seem to appreciate the importance of this trader have acted with a laudable zeal in making good roads. Upon the whole, I was highly pleased with the commercial importance of Baltimore, and regretted that I did not fix upon this place for my commercial establishment, in place of Savannah. The trade of Baltimore is facilitated by three banks, having all ample capitals. One is a branch of the bank of the United States. The affairs of the city are under the management of a city council, consulting of two branches, and a maypr. The police seems to be under good regulations, and the streets are kept very clean, whicii itcureft good health to the citizens. Education is pretty well attend* cdto; and the citizens are said to be hospitable and industrious: the men rank as correct men of business ; and as to the ladies, I saw but little of them, and can only say, ii^ the language of the quaker, ♦«thfylookweU/? '^ ; . , ' . jy.v. is;; CHAPTER XXX. Maryland, ' This state is sjtuated between 38" and 39" 43' north latitude^ an^ 2" east and 2" 30' west longitude. Its extreme length frooK fast to west is 212 miles, and its extreme breadth from north to south is 123 ; but it is very irregular. It is computed to contain about H,000 square miles, or 8,9(30,000 acres^ of which about one fourth is water. The face of the country is remarkably variegated. It is bound- ed on the south-west by the river Potomac to its extremity ; and the fine Chesapeak Bay, with its numerous waters, passes through the middle of it. On the east side it presents a coast of about 35 miles to the Atlantic ocean: the eastern shore is low, level and sandy. The country continues to rise by a very gentle aicent, but is geQe- MiKYLAMD. 141 rally Wei to Baltimore ; it then swells out into a Billy oounti7,'and the western part stretches across the mountains. The Chesapeak Bay has already been noticed; but it merits a more particular description, from its \aat importance to this state^ and indeed to the United States generally. This bay is formed by the outlet of the Susquehannah River, where it receives French Creek, and a number of smaller streams; it is there about 7 miles broad, and so continues to near the branch that leads up to Baltimore ; from thence it assumes various breadths, from 10 to 15 miles, dur- ing a course downwards of about 70 miles, to near the Potomac River : from thence it stretches out to 25 or 30 miles, during a pas- sage of 90 miles more, and finally passes into the Atlantic Ocean by an outlet of 2a miles broad : the whole course^ from north to south, is nearly 200 miles, and it receives in its passage the whole waters pf this state, nearly the whole of the eastern part of Virginia, a great part of those of Pennsylvania, and some of Delaware ; exhi- faitini^ upon the whole, a greater confluence of waters than is to be seen in the United States, or almost in the world. The principal rivers in Maryland that run into this bay, besides the Susquehan- nah and Potomac, are the Patapsco and Patuxent, on the west side ; and on the east side. Elk River, Sassafras, Chester, Choptank, Naa- ticoke, and Pocomoke, the last of which issues out of Cyprus Swamp. There are numerous islands in the bay, and the waters a- bound with various kinds offish : the state is generally well watered^ and abounds with mill-seats. '" Maryland is well supplied with iron ore, and $ome coal has been found ; but not in jsufficient quantity to make it an ol^ect of im? portance. ■ ■ * - The soil is very various, and a great portion of it is but poor : to- wards the eastern shore it is low and sandy, abounding with swamps in the interior there are many fertile spots ; but the greater part of the land is poor until you pass the first ridge of mountains, where there is a fertile valley of 12 or 14 miles broad: from thence the soil is pretty much assimilated to the mountainous district qf Pennsylvania. The climate is as Various as the soil : the eastern part is pretty similar to Delaware, indicated by a pale sickly colour in the inha- bitants. It improves as the land gets hilly, and among the moun- tains is delightful, the summers being cooled by fine breezes, while the wiqters are tempered by a southern latitude, which renders theiQ much more mild than to the iiorthwArd. 14!2 MARYLAND. The country was fint settled by Lord Baltimore, a Romea Catholic, who evinced the liberality of his religious principles, by providing for the free exercise of all other religious opinions in the ■colony. At the commencement of the revolutionary war, the state was declared to belong to the citizens, who delegated five of their number to the first congress. The state constitution was framed in 1776, which, with a few trifling amendments, still continues. The state now sends two senators and nine representatives to con- gress. ai-M: '-^ &l V'-iiM A- rff-r,., ; The state is divided into 19 counties, and contained, by the census of 1800, 24< 1,885 white persons, and 107,707 slaves; b^ ing, in the whole, about 25 persons to the square mile of ter- ritory ; but, when the proportion of water is subtracted, it makes the amount to each square mile nearly 35. >fational improvements have kept pace with the industry •and perseverance of the inhabitants, and the towns, cultivated farms, roads, and bridges are all so many proofs that the citizens of Maryland ore possessed, /in a high degree, (^ these qualifioh ; Of the cities, Baltimore, already described, is tl^e chief. .An- napolis is the seat of government, and is situated on the Severn River, about two qniles from its entrance into Chesapeak Bay. The houses, built of brick, are about 300 in number, and the ^ity c(mtains about 2500 inhabitants. The State-House is one of the most superb buildings in the United States. There is a college, a theatre, and two places of public worship in the city. -It has a harbour, though no great commerce; but, being a plea- sant place, it is the residence of a great many wealthy people. Fre- ^erick'tawn is a large inland town, containing a court-house, jail, academy, market-house, and seven places of public worship. The inhabitants are about 6000 ; and the iown has considerable manu- factures and ialajid trade. Hagers-town, situated beyotid. the first range of mountains, contains 2100 inhabitants. Besides these, there are a^ great number of smaller towns and villages, contain- ing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants. A great number of the farm- houses are built of wood, and they are not so substantial, nor so elegant, in general, as those in Pennsylvania. This is the first state in which there is a materiid difference of agriculture from the northern s^tes; still, however, the staple ^op is wheat ) but they ra|se a consider&ble quantity «f tobacco, •■i.t>i*7'"»<*"10!4 '•' DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 143 and some cotton, though none of the latter for exportation. All the other grains, grasses, and roots, that grow in the northern states, flourish here ; and the sweet potatoe, a root belonging to a warm climate, comes to considerable maturity. f The principal manufactures of the state have been noticed in the account of Baltimore ; and so has the foreign trade. The exports from the state, in 1805, amounted to 10,859,480 dollars, of which 7,4'50:9S7 dollars was foreign produce ; and the importa are about equal in value, of which a great part consists in dry goods from Britain. There are considerable funds appropriated to the support of I education. There are five colleges, and a number of very re^)ect- able academies in the state, and common schools in every cotinty* The civil government is vested in a governor, senate, and house of delegates, all chosen annually. The qualification to vote for delegates is a freehold of 50 acres of land, or property to the value of ^.30 currency. The principles of government ave similar to those of Pennsylvania. -- / -.v. J. I '■/<"! a CHAPTER XXXL •■^i. -k.fi}i;Uu-; ■ Patajpsco CreeJci — Washington, .. . .; ^.. . On the third of October, at eight o'clock, I set out in the mail stage for Washington. We travelled eight miles through a hilly, well-wooded, and healthy country, and arrived at Patapsco creek, 25 miles above its junction with the Chesapeak. It is navigable thus far, but the navigation is obstructed by the falls half a mile above. We travelled eight miles more through a similar country, when w'^ stopped to change horses. The land seemed but poor, and lit ndtivated ; the principal woods were oak, hickory, and pine. 'I'he air was sweet and pure, and having intelligent com- pany in the stage, the travelling was very agreeable. At 19 mile^ from Patapsco creek, we stopped again to change horses, on an elevated situation, where we had a fine view of the adjacent coun- try ; and, in one direction, not less than 20 miles distant. From thence we travelled 16 miles, through a country rough and uneven, and by a road no less so, when we came to an agrees able plain ; and two miles further we passed through a little scat- 144 TBAVELS IN THl -- tering Tillage called Dladensburg, situated on (he east branch of the Potomac ; from thence we travelled nine miles more to Wash* ington city; the whole distance being 44 miles^ The country ap- peared generally poor and sterile ; and the season had been un- commonly dry, in consequence of which all the grass and herbs were parched, and the face of nature every where exhibited s scorched-like appearance. I noticed, however^ several tliriviog fields of tobacco. Being told that we were entering Washington city, I contiau* ed looking for the houses for some little time ; but seeing none, I thought I had misunderstood the gentleman who made the remark, and turning round for an explanation, he told me, laugh- ing, that we were almost in the very middle of it, and asked if I did not see the Capitol a little before us. I did, indeed, see a stately edifice^ but no other appearance of a city. Soon after this, the stage stopped^ at Steele's hotel, nearly opposite the Capitol, where I took lodgings. On walking out to the Capitol . lill, I had a fine view of the whole scite of the city, which is \ y large, extending a mile and a half in each direction north and south of the Capitol ; to the east two miles ; and to the west nearly two miles and a half. The buildings, though numerous, being scattered over this large space, give it more the appearance of a thickly-settlod country than a city ; and, very few of them extending in the direction we came, we had travelled a good way into the city before I saw it^ The view from the Capitol is really superb. The whole coun- try round is handsomely settled, with elegant houses ; and the view is terminated to the west, south-west, and north-west, with highlands. To the south, is the river Potomac, with Alexandria pleasantly situated on its banks. The navy-yard and shipping, and the barracks, are seen to the south-east and eastward; and to the west is the president's house, a stately edifice, about a mile distant ; beyond which, handsomely situated on the brow of the hill, is Georgetown. The Pennsylvania avenne runs between the Capitol and the president's house, and being ornamented with trees and walks on each side, forms a very pleasing prospect. It is in this direction that the city is making greatest progress. The evening was clear and pleasant, and the reflection of the jetting sun added lustre to the scenery. BISTfilCT OF COLUMBIA. 143 CHAPTER XXXII. ' Washington f-Treasuryt — Capitol^ — Barracks^ — Nacn/' Yard, Georgetown, /Washington, October 4. Having been furnished with a letter ot Introduction to a gentleman in the treasury ofRce, I called this raoniing, when 1 was politely received, and got every information calculated to facilitate my inquiries. My friend car- ried me to the different departments in the ofHce, which are all spacious and commodious ; but this being a time at which there was no public business, there was little to be seen. From thence we went to the post-office, which has no great appearance exterior- ly, but it seems to be yety well arranged in the interior to answer the purpose for which it was designed. I was informed that both these departments were under excellent management I was then introduced by my friend to the gentleman who has the charge of the Capitol, and went with him to see that edifice. It is an elegant building of hewn stone, and consists of two wings and a portico in the middle. The north wing was quite complete, and the whole legislative business was transacted in it for the time. The senate-chamber occupies the ground floor, and is an elegant apartment, with handsome furniture; it is adorned with full length portraits of the late unfortunate king and queen of France. The house of representatives meet in an apartment up stairs, which, I was told, was ultimately destined for the library room. It was fitted up with commodious seats for the members, but no way or- namented. The only things in it which merited notice, were two very elegant views of the falls of Niagara. From thence we went to the south wing, where a great many workmen were em- ployed; and I was told they were making great exertions to have it finished in time for the next congress. The apartment for the house of representatives is a large oval room, occupying nearly the whole building up stairs, and will, when finished, be very superb. From the Capitol I went to see the barracks. They are large and convenient, and were garrisoned by 250 men, being a portion of the Unitied States' army. I waa informed that they were found in every thing, besides their pay of six dollars per month. Thii, iiowever, does nut bear a proportion to the wages of the other ;i W'l 146 • TAAVfiLt IN TBI 1 classes in America^ who, on nn average, may be founci in every thing, and have twelve dollars per month. The conse. f{ucncc is, that the few military that are wanted will probably not be, gcnerall}' speaking, equal in respectability to the other ci- tizens. It is probable they will be composed of indolent men, who are not willing to labour, or of vicious men, who have become ob- noxious to society. This sliould, if possible, be guarded against. No set of men should be more respectable than those to whom are committed the national defence ; and measures should be devised to place them on a footing with their brethren in regard both to in- dustry and pecuniary means. Would it not be wise in a nation to plan works of public utility, and employ a portion of the time of the military in executing them ? This would not only improve the country, but would keep the men in active employment, and afibrd them wages e(]ual to the other classes in society. From the Barracks I went to the Navy-Yard, where I saw cigiit or ten frigates, the most of them undergoing repair^ I went on board one, which^ I was informed, was the Chesapeak. She car- ries 44 guns, and appears very large for that metal. '":'• ' Having seen the most material places in Washington, I procured a hoi'se, and took a ride to Georgetown, three miles distant front the Capitol. The view is very elegant the whole way, and, in the vicinity of Georgetown, there is a ro.mantic chasm, in which there is a pretty large stream of water, called Rock Creek. Having passed this by a wooden bridge, I entered the town, which I found! regularly laid out, and compactly built. It stands on the side of a hill, having a considerable descent to the river, of which it has a fine view. It contains tibout 300 houses, and 4,500 inhabitants. Most of the houses are built of brick, and some of them are elegant. The public buildings are five places for public worship, an academy, and a bank. It is a place of considerable trade, which, in consequence of the rapid settlement of the back country, is yearly increasing. The River Potomac, which is nearly a mile broad opposite Washington, contracts here to less than a fourth of that distance; and it is proposed to build a bridge across it, which, if executed, will add much to the convenience of this part of the country. This river merits particular notice, and I cannot any where in- troduce it with more propriety than here. The Potomac rises ii'om a spring on the north-west side of tlie DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 147 it sideof tlw Allegany mountairs, and runs a north-cast courso of about 60 miles, to Cumberland, where it makes a bend, and, by a serpen- tine course, nearly south-east, runs about 18 miles, to wliere it receives tlie south-west branch. It then turns to the north-east, and runs a veiy serpentine course of about 45 miles, in wliich it receives a considerable number of tributary streams, to Hancock's Town. Here it makes another bend to the south-east, and 9 miles from thence it receiver, the waters of Licking Creek, and parses the North Mountain into a fine limestone valley, which it waters by a very winding course, and principally a south-east direction, tor about 45 miles. In this valley it receives a considerable number of small streams, particularly the Conccocheague Creek, at Williams- )X)rt in the middle of the valley ; and at tlie extremity it receives the waters of the Shenandoah from Virginia ; and, by a singularly grand passage, issues through the Blue Mountain, It thence {masses on, nearly in the same direction, about 30 miles, where, by two different falls, in the course of 8 or 10 miles, it descends above 140 feet to the level of tide- water, which it meets at Georgetown. Tlic river now increases to about a mile broad, and, passing Alexandria and Mount Vernon, it runs a course a little to the west of south, to 35 mile« below Alexandria, where it makes u great bend of nearly 15 miles to the north-east. It now gradually increases in breadth, and running 50 miles below this bend, flows into the Chesapeak Bay, by a passage about 10 miles broad. This is one of the most important of the Atlantic rivers, and, from its intersecting the country in a central situation, has excttMl great attention in the United States ; more especially sinc^ W^'ashington was fixed on as the seat of the general government. It h navigable for ships of any burden to Alexandria, a distance of about 100 miles, and about 180 from the Capes of Virginia; and from thence for vessels of considerable burden to Georgetown, at the head of tide-water. TJiere is a lock navigation, constructed at great labour and expence* round the first falls. Considerable im- provements have been made further up the river ; and it is pre- sumed, that, by following up these improvements, the river can be made fit for boat navigation to Cumberland, 180 miles above tide-water, the elevation being 700 feet above the level of the sea. Connected with this important subject, I may here notice, that a road has been laid out, by order of congress, from Cumberland, across tlie mountains, to Brownsville on the Monongali(4a, a ^^ 148 TRAVELS IN TIIK "■:i i»"i''f m ■i % %.\f tance of 72 inilei, on which the angle of ascent is no when greater than 5 degrees. From Brownsville there is an easy navi. gation to Pittbburg on the Ohio. I returned from Georgetown to dine vith my friend ; and after dinner was introduced to a number of gentlemen of Washington, who vied with one another in showing mc attention, and in giv< ing mc information. Among others, I saw Mr. Smith, t^e editor of the National In. tclligcncer, a shrewd, sensible man ; arid, having a desire to be correctly informed of the measures of the gmcrnl government du< ring my stay in America, I ordered a copy of that paper to be sent to Savannah. I had frequently seen and admired it for its liberality of sentiment, and freedom from personal abuse ; nnd, from the access whiclf the editor must necessarily have to the best sources pi information, I was satisfied that the intelligence con* tained in it might be generally relied on. In the evening I was informed by iny friends, that the presi^ dent had unexpectedly arrivecl in the city, and 1 was advised to call upon him before I left it. I wished very much to have an opportunity of seeing t)ic president-; but I was informed at New York and Philadelphia, that he would not be at Washington until late in November, in consequence of which, I was not furnish* cd with a letter of introduction* But they informed me, that it wai altogether unnecessary ; Mr. Jefferson yras a man of no ceremony, and I could introduce myself as a stranger, and would be attended to as such, and would see more of the president tlian I could in any other way. This advice I resolved to follow, and the result of it shall be communicated in the next chapter. , , - .i )■■ - ( CHAPTER XXXIII. ' - Interview with Mr. Jefferson. Washington, October S. in pursuance of the recomi mendation of my friends, I set oiit, this morning, at 8 o'clock, for the purpose of waiting on Mr. Jefferson. On my arrival at the president's house, I delivered my address to a servant, who in a few minutes returned with an answer, that Mr. Jefferson wouM be with me presently, and sliowed me into an elegant apartment. DISTKICT or COLUMBIA. 149 Mr. Jt'ffcrson noon entered by an inner door, and requesting me to be •eoted, sat down himself; and immediately, and very frank- ly, entered into conversation, by asking where I had landed, and how long I had been in the country. Having informed him, he remarked that I would probably be travelling to the nortliward ; and in^giv. JB I replied that I had been to the north, and was now travelling to iS the Kouthward. " And how do you like New York ?" " Very much," said 1 ; "it is one of the finest sea-ports I have seen, and, I presume, will always continue to be the first commercial city in the United States." He observed that he found that idea gene- rally entertained by strangers ; that Ner> York wa:\ a y try hne situation, and would unquestionably continue ';lw.''\s ht be a ffuat commercial city : but it appeared to him thcf, Nonjuil: woi.'d pro- bably, in process of time, be the greatest sen-pr rl, in the IJfiited States,' New Orleans perhaps excepted. }r\t poini'i c! out ihc. nircum - stances of the vast confluence of waters, tliat constiintcH ;he outle' of the Chcsapeak bay, on which Norfolk issitir-'ipcl, uaii cnijcd ked rhfti these rivers were as yet but partially settled ; bi*.*; tiiey w-^^'t rapi^Jly settling up, and, when the population wiis fulJ, the qu entity »t sur- plus produce would be immense, and Norfolk would pro<>ably bi^• come the greatest depot in the United States, i;:xcept New Orlcur .{. The conversation next turned upon the climate and season ; on which the president remarked, that the country hud ih'iu surnvnev been remarkably healthy ; that no case of epidimici?.; ^rckvci^;;^ had come to his Icnowledge, some few of bilious fever and fever r ud ague excepted, at the foot of the mountains on James' rivei*, raX fui from where he lived ; and which country was r:ever known to experience any cases of the kind beforp. As this appeared f^i'igu- lar, I inquired whether there was any wsy o^occountitiij for it. He replied, that the way he accounted for it war; thn ; *• In ordi- nary seasons, there is a sufficiency of wpt^r re keep the rivers in a state of circulation, and no more; b:^t rhis soH.<;on there has been a long and severe drought, which, ii. Lioiiy places, has dried them up. The water has stagnated in puols, and sends out a putrid effluvia to some distance ; which.^ beirig lighter than the atmosphere, ascends even some little way up the mountains, and reaches the abodes of those who thought themselves heretofore free from attack.'* I was struck with the force of this remark, and applied it to a cir- cumstance that had come under my observation at Washington. The Capital Hill is elevated aboye tke river upwards of 70 feet, J 50 TRAVELS IN THE Between this and die river there is a low meadow, about a mile broad, abounding with swamps and shrubbery. In the autumn these swamps send out an effluvia, which often affects the health of those who live on the hill. I noticed this circumstance, and the president remarked, that it was exactly in point. He said he had frequently observed from his windows, in the morning, the vapour to rise, and it seemed to have sufficient buoyancy to carry it to the top of the hill, and no further ; there it settled, and the inhabitants coining out of their warm |Y)om8, breathed this cold contaminated vapour, which brought on agues and other com- plaints. He said he had frequently pointed out this to the people, and urged them to drain the swamp, but it was still neglected, although they had, besides sufFeringin their health, probably expend- ed more in doctor's bills than it would have cost. " But, indeed," he continued, " mankind are exceedingly slow in adopting resolu- tions to prevent diseasei and it is very difficult co convince them where they originate; particularly when the reasoning applied is the result of philosophical deduction." . • ^ . The transition from this subject to that of the yellow fever vras natural, and I introduced it by noticing Paine's essay on the sub- ject. The president observed, that it was one of the most sensible performances on that disease, that had come under his observation. The remarks were quite philosophical, and, not being calculated to ^cite any party feeling, they might have a very useful tendency.* He then made a few remarks pn the nature of the yellow fever it8el£ He observed, that it evidently arose from breathing im- pure air, and impure air may be either generated in the country or imported. A case had come under his observation where it was iiiiported. A vessel arrived at Norfolk, and the air in her hold was so pestilential, that every pertjon who went into it was a£fected, and some of them died ; but, on the discovery being jnade, the vessel was purified, and the fever did not spread. This was a local circumstance, he observed, and there may be many Others, which are pernicious as far as they go, and care should be taken to prevent them. But a ship can never import a sufficient " I bad seen this eivay of Mr. Pttine in the newspapen, and I made msution of k in the account (^ my coaversation with him, page 63. I have since procured a copy of the essay ; and as it is the most intelligible account that I have yet seen of t • CHAPTER XXXIV. District of Columbia. 'i: i.' This district is lO mlles square, and was ceded to the United States by the states of Virginia and Maryland ; and in the year . 1800 became the seat of the general government. It is in north latitude 38° 54', and the American geographers have adopted it as the first meridian of longitude, which I have followed in m; descriptions of the states, so as the reader may know at a glance how far they are removed from the capital. The face of the coun- try around it has been noticed : the soil appears poor and sandy; the climate is the same as the middle district of Maryland, and, judging from the countenances of the people, I should infer it is not very healthy : it is high and dry ; but the whole flat country of Vir- ginia and North Carolina lies to the south of it; and, when a south wind blows, it must waft a great deal of marsh effluvia along with it* of which the people in this disti-ict will receive a full share. The district lies oq both sides of the Potomac river, and is (it- DISTRICT OP COLUMBIA. 153 vidtd into two counties, one on t%ch side. The population, when I waf therS) was supposed to be about 17,000, including those of Georgetown and Alexandria ; and it was rapidly encreasing. The general improvements in this district have been already no- ticed. Besides the settlements scatter jv^ over the district, it con- tains two principal towns, and the capital; of these, Georgetown has been already mentioned ; and as I snail have occasion to notice Alexandria in a subsequent article, it only remains here to give a general account of the federal city. WASHINGTON Is situated in the centre of the district of Columbia, and is bound- ed on the south-east by the eastern branch of the Potomac river, to the south-west by the western branch, to the north-west by Rock creek, and to the north-cast by the open country. Its extreme length from north-west to south-east is a little more than four miles and a half, and its medium breadth from north-east to south-west about two miles and a half, being nearly the dimensions of the city ^London, including Westminster and Southwark. An elegant plan of this city has been published, on which I count- ed 37 squares, 17 grand avenues, named afler the different states, and 103 streets crossing one another at right angles, and running the whole length and breadth of the city. On this plan I find the following observations : " The grand avenues, and such streets as lead immediately to public places, are from 130 to 160 feet wide, and riay be conveni- ently divided into foot-ways, walks of trees, and a carriage-way. The other streets are from 90 to 110 feet wide. " In order to execute th|s plan, Mr. Ellicott drew a true meri- dional line by celestial observation, which passes through the area intended for the capitol ; this line he crossed by another, due east and west, which passes through the same area : these lines were ac- curately measured, and made the basis on which the whole plan was executed. He ran all the lines by a transit instrument, and deter- mined the acute angles by actual measurement, and lefl nothing to the uncertainty of the compass. " The positions for the different edifices, and for the several squares or areas of didbrent shapes, as they are laid down, were first determined on the most advantageous ground, commanding the most extensive prospects, and the better susceptible of such improve- ments as either use or ornament may hcreailer call for. 20 154 TRAVULS IN THE •■I 'w " Lines or avenues of direct communication have been devised to connect the separate and most distant objects with the principal, and to preserve through the whole a reciprocity of sight at the same time. Attention has be^ paid to the passing of these leading av^ nues over the motit favourable ground for prospect and convenience- " North and south lines, intersected by others running due east and west, make the distribution of the city into streets, squares, &c.; and those lines have been so combined as to meet at certain given points with those divergent avenues, so as to form on the spaces first determined, the different squares or areas." There are three creeks delineated on the plan, above the city, on which I find the following observations : ** The perpendicular height of Tiber creek above the level of the tide in said creek, is 236 feet, 7 inches : the water of this creek may be conveyed on the high ground where the Capitol stands, and af- ter watering that part of the city, may be destined to other useful purposes. The perpendicular height of the ground where the Ca- pitol is to stand is above the tide of Tiber creek 78 feet. " The perpendicular height of the west branch above the tide ii Tiber creek, is 115 feet, 7 inches. " The water of Reedy creek, and that of the Tiber, may be con- veyed to the president's house." A most elegant plan indeed, and a very animated description. It only wants 40,000 elegant buildings, and a corresponding popu- lation, to constitute the American capital one of the handsomest ci- ties iii the world ! However, it is to be recollected that every thirg must have a beginning ; and the time was when London was not The city now probably contains about 700 houses, and 5000 in- habitants : the buildings are all of brick, three stories high, and a- greeable to a given plan ; there are many scattering huts and wood- en buildings throughout the district, but they are only temporary. The greater part of the public buildings have been already noticed: there are, besides, two or three churches, three market-houses, and a jail. The markets arc tolerably well supplied with provisions; but every article is dear; the prices may be reckoned one-lhird higher than at Philadelphia, — a circumstance that will probably o- peratc against the progress of population. The principal manufactures are those calculated for domestic con- sumption, boots, shoes, hats, &c. There is a considerable retail trade ; but very little of any other : the shipping trade is carried on at Alexaudriii, and the inland trade at Georgetown. ' 1 i i DISmiCT OF COLUMBIA. 155 The inhabitants are a collection from all quarters of the union, and there are many foreigners among them : they are reputed to be or- derly and correct in their morals, and have bent their attention very much to the subjects of education and internal improvement. ITie district of Columbia, west of the Potomac, is subject to the laws of Virginia, and easi of the river to those of Maryland ; but the whole is under the special direction of the government of the United States, and the internal police is managed by a corporation, of which the president of the United States appoints the mayor : the other members are elected by the people. There is a circuit court of the United States within the district, consisting of a chief judge and two assistants, and they hold four sessions annually. i • ,' • A few general remarks shall close this chapter, and my account of the capital of the United States. : / Having, in the course of my travels, heard a great many con- flicting opinions about British influence and French influence, and federalism and democracy, and the supposed enmity of the Ameri- can government to Britain and British trade, and of a partiality for the French and Bonaparte, I determined to take no share in the argument, but to hear all the evidence on both bides, as it came in my way, and to judge for myself. - > a , . . The result of this judgment I shall now communicate. I was ^tisfied, from all that I had seen and heard, that there is bonajde British influence in the country, of a very powerful nature, great in extent, and arising from very obvious causes : the princi- pal of these are the identity of language, the similitude of manners and habits, and the extensive commerce between the United States and Britain. To prove the influence arising from these, it is un- necessary to go beyond my own person. I landed in America a stranger : I travelled through: the country, associating every where freely with the people : I was uniformly received as a friend. I waited on the chief magistrate of America, altogether in an unpre- meditated manner : I sent up my address as *' a native of Britain :" his conduct and conversation have been faithfully recorded in the preceding chapter, and the public can judge of it. Did it look like prejudice against Britain, or British people ? — I say no. In regard to French influence, it stands upon a footing exactly the reverse: the natives of France have a diflerent language, and different manners and habits : when they urrive in this country iur. I found myself a little at a loss, as I did not wish to part with my cents, and I had nothing but Scots stories and Scots songs ; but I soon found that these were highly sa- tisfactory, and that the name of Robert Burns was as well known, and as highly esteemed in Virginia, as in Ayrshire. Our captain was both a son of Neptune and a son of Mars; and could adapt the technical language of these professions to the different movements of the stage, with remarkable facility. When the coach heeled to one side, he would call out " To the right and left, and cover your flanks — ^whiz ;" and when we passed a stream by a ford, he would sing out, " by the deep nine," ac- companied with all the attitudes of heaving the lead. The day was clear, pleasant, and healthy ; and in this strain of merriment and good humour, we prosecuted our journey much to our satis- faction. From where we breakfasted, we travelled through a hilly coun- try, and but partially cultivated, to Dumfries, a small town con- taining about 300 inhabitants, court-house, jail, &c. ; and from thence we passed on through a hilly country, but more improved, to Fredericksburg, 25 miles, where we stopped for the night. Fredericksburg is situated on the south-west side of Rappahan- noc river. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one an- other at right angles, and consists of about 300 houses, contain- ing about 1600 inhabitants. The principal public buildings are an episcopal church, an academy, courtrhouse, and jail. It carries on a considerable trade, principally in flour and tobacco. The Rappahannock river rises in the Blue Mountains, by two considerable streams, called Rapid Ann river and Hedgeman VIRGINIA. 159 river; which unite about 12 miles above this place, and, running a south-east course, falls into the Chesapeak bay about 90 miles below Fredericksburg, where it is about three miles broad. It is navigable to Fredericksburg, where it has two fathoms water.* On Tuesday, the 7th October, we started from Fredericksburg, at 1 o'clock in the morning, and travelled through an uneven country, and pretty well cultivated, to Bowling- Green, 2a miles; and a few miles further, we pass&ed Mattapony rivei*. This river rises about 20 miles above where we crossed it, and runs a south'- enst course, about 80 miles, when it joins the Pamunky river, and forms York river. It is navigable to Downer's bridge, 70 miles above its mouth.f About IB miles from this river, wc travelled through a country nearly similar to that described, but tlie soil rather sandy, to Pamunky river. This river is formed by the north and south Anna rivers, which rise in the north-west, about 50 or 60 miles distant, and form a junction about 15 miles above where we crossed. From thence it holds a south-east course, but with many windings, about 50 miles, when it forms the junction with Mattapony river aforesaid. It is navigable for boats about 40 miles above where we crossed it. York river is composed of these two rivers, and widening to a considerable extent, it passes into the Chesapeak bay, by a channel of about three miles. Y'^ork- town is situated 12 miles up this river, and is the best harbour in the state for vessels of the largest size. " The river narrows to the width of a mile at York, and is contained within very high banks, close under which vessels may ride. It holds tour fathoms water at high tide for 25 miles above York, where the river is a mile and a half wide, and the channel only 75 fathoms. At the confluence of the Pamunky and Mattapony it is reduced to three fathoms deep.":}: York is remarkable as being the place where the contest with Britain was decided by the capture of lord Cornwallis. After crossing this river we passed Hanover court-house, and the road proceeds through a country nearly similar to that already described, 24 miles, to Richmond, the capital of Virginia, which we reached to dinner. In our way we passed Falling creek, a branch of James river, after which the country improves, and is handsomely settled. The day was very clear, and we had at one place a view of the South-west mountains. • Jefferson's Note* on Virginia, f Ibid. \ Jefierwn's Notck 160 TIAVELS IN i Ha HicHMOKD is handsomely situated on James river, immediately below the falls. It is a large elegant city, consisting of more than 1000 houses, and contains about 8000 inhabitants.* The state. house stands on an eminence, and is considered the handsomest building in the state, haying spacious apartments for the mectiDg of the legislature, and commodious rooms for the transaction of the public business of the state. The other public buildings are the court-house, jail, and theatre, two places for public worship, a freemason's hall, and three tobacco warehouses. Richmond is situated in a fertile healthy country, and is well supplied with provisions ; and it is flourishing in manufactures and commerce. There is an armoury in the neighbourhood, said to be the best in the United States. The city is remarkably well situated for mill-seats ; some of the finest flour-mills in the state have lately been erected, and the quantity of flour manufactured annually is immense. There are also rolling and slitting-mills, oil-mills, and several others; and several extensive difttilleries and breweries, Richmond carries on a considerable trade, principally in to- bacco and flour, with many places of the United States, particu* larly New York, which in return supplies it with dry goods and groceries, The inhabitants hcre,like those in the sea-ports, are mostly dressed in British manufactures, and are very gay. They look remarkably well, and the ladies, of whom we only had a glance as wc passed through the city, appeared very handsome. Some nails in my portmanteau having given way, I carried it to a saddler to get it repaired ; and on my return to the tavern, I found a native of Perth, to whom I had sent a message, waiting for me ; and what with conversation about the place of our nativi- ty, the importunity of the stage-driver, and the humour of our merry captain, I was almost short shipt of a dinner. Having finished my repast as rapidly as I could, I took my place in the Ktoge, and we set out for Petersburg, Several of the passengers had left us at Richmond ; but as we took up two or three gentlemen who were returning from a horse- race, the stage w^s still full ; and we continued our regulations, which our new members assented to with great cordiality. On leaving the city, we passed James River by a long wooden bridge, at which each of the passengers had to pay toll, a circum- » By the census «f 1810^ the uiniber p 9725. VIRGINIA. 161 Stance I never saw before, it being common to lay the toll on the carriage only. The scenery at this place was very beautiful. James River is one of the most important in the state of Vir- ginia. It rises near the Allegany Mountains, nearly 200 miles west from Richmond, and pursuing a course to the eastward, runs through all the other chains, passes Richmond, and receives the wa- ters of the Appomatox about 25 miles below that city. From thence it exhibits a curious appearance, widening and contracting alernate- ly, and, by a crooked passage of about 70 miles, fulls into Chesa- peak Bay, IS miles to the westward of Cape Henry; its whole length* including its windings, being upwards of 300 miles. The principal tributary streams to this river are the Rivannah, on which is Monti- cello, the seat of president Jefferson, the Appomattox, the Chick- nhomany, the Nansemond, and the Elizabeth, on which last is Norfolk. *' Tlie whole of Elizabeth River is a harbour, and would contain upwards of 300 ships. The channel is from 150 to 200 fathom wide, and, at flood tide, affords 18 feet water to Norfolk. The Nansemond is navigable to Sleepy Hole for ves- sels of 250 tons ; to Suffolk for those of 100 tons ; and to Milncr'a for those of 25. Chickahomany has at its mouth a bar, on which is only 1 2 feet water at common flood tide. Vessels passing that, may go 8 miles up the river; those of 10 feet water may go 4 miles further ; and those of 6 tons burden 20 miles further. The Rivannah is navigable for canoes and battcaux 22 miles, to the South'wcst Mountains, and may be easily opened to navigation through these mountains to its fork above Charlottesville."* " James River itself affords harbour for vessels of any size in Hampton Road, but not in safety through the winter ; and there is navigable water for them as far as Mulberry Island. A 40 gun ship goes to Jamestown, and, lightening herself, may pass to Harrison's Bar, on which there is only 15 feet water. Vessels of250 tons may goto Warwick; those of 125 go to Rocket's, a mile below Richmond ; from thence is about 7 feet water to Riclunond; and about tl^e centre of the town, 4^ feet, where the navigation is interrupted by falls, which, in a course of 6 miles, descend about 80 feet perpendicular. Above these, it is resumed in canoes and batteaux, and is prosecuted safely to within 10 miles of the Blue Ridge; and even through the Ridge a ton • Jefferson''* Notes. 21 162 TnAVBTJ IN wciglit has been brouglit ; nnd the expencc wotiltl not be great, wrlien eompiircd with its objects, to open a tolerable navigntion up Jacicson's River nnd Carpenter's Creek, to within 25 miles of Howard's Creek of Oreenbriar, both of which have then water enough to float vessels into the Great Kanhaway. In some future state of popiihition, I think it possible that its navigation may also be made to interlock with that of the Potomac, and, through that, to conmiunicnte by a short portage with the Ohio,"* A company has been incorporated by the state for improving the navigation of this river with a capital of 140,000 dollar^ of which the state owns 50,000 ; and they are bound by the charter to re- move all obstructions, so as there may never be less than 12 inchest of water over all the shoals from the upper end of the lower falls to Pattonborough, in the middle of the mountains, and distant from Richmond upwards of 200 miles. The company have pro- secuted the busines» with a laudable zeal, and have expended up- wards of 200,000 dollars upon it. A canal is drawn from the river ut the upper end of the fulls, and proceeds 200 yards, when it i» lowered 34 feet, by 3 locks, and again enters the river. From thence the navigation is perfect for 3 miles, when another canal commences, and runs 3^ miles to a basin at Richmond, wheretlic navigation terminates. It was contemplated by the charter to continue the canal to the tide water, but the plan is for the pre- sent suspended. The basin is a mile and a halt from the port of Richmond, and is 80 feet above tide-water. From the upper end of the great falls to the basin the distance is G^ miles, and the descent 48 feet; making in all 128 feet descent in 8 miles, -' The navifjation of the river from above the falls to its extremi- ty among the mountains, is considered better than that of any of the other Atlantic rivers; and it may be observed that coal i^ found here in great abundance, a circumstance which occurs no where else in the vicinity of tide water, in the United States. From Richmond we travelled 25 miles to Petersburg, where we stopped for the night. The country I could see but partiall}') as we passed a considerable jiart of it in the dark. "We cn>s«c(l several small streams in our way, and near Petersburg the Appo- 1 mattox river before alluded to. '*^* * This river rises near the mountains, and is in length upward* * JelTerson's Notes. VIRGIN14. I^ of 100 miles to its junction with James river. " It may bo na« viiratcd as fur oh Urondwa)r':i by uny vcsvel which has c rottsetl Har- rison's bar, on James river. It keeps ei^ht or ten lec^ water a milo or two higher np to Fisher's bnr, and I'uur feet on tJiat, and ii]>- wards, where all navigation ceases."* Pkteusburu is situated on the aforesaid river, immediately be- low the falls, and is a place of considerable wealth and importance, carrying on a great trade in tobacco and flour, a considerable portion of which is with New York. The population, in 1800, was 2031 free people, and ItSl slaves, liie population is said to be composed principally of Irish people, and they are distin- guished for frank liberal manners, and high-spirited })ntrioti!>ni. The principal public buildings are, two places for public wor- ship, a court-house, jail, and freemason's hall. ^^ .; The market is well supplied with provisioni ; and there arc nu- merous mills in and about the town. It was past 1 1 o'clock at night before we arrived, and we learn- ed that the stage was to set out at one o'clock next morning. We considered it therefore entirely useless to go to bed, and the captain carried me to see some gentlemen of his acquaintance. There were six or eight of them, all agreeable young men, most of them Irish- men ; and the captain, being intimately acquainted with them, was welcomed with much afTection, and 1 was cordially taken by the hand as his friend, for whom he was pleased to express a parti- cular regard. They had a violjn in the room, which was im- mediately adjusted to the tune of the Thistle and the Shamrock f\ and we had a most harmonious concert of jigs and strathspeyst while Yankee Doodle was not forgotten. The song, the senti- ment, and the toast followed. " An age could not have made us better acquainted," and wc united in opinion, that there was no country on the face of the earth like this, where people of all nations, kindreds, tongues, and languages, could with such hap- py facility meet and harmonize in the spirit of unity, and in the bond of peace. *' But pleasures arc like poppies spread." We were in the full exercise and enjoyment of these sentiments when we were called away to take our places in the stage, and I left this little liberal circle with sentiments of fric»idly regard. October 8, at one o'clock, wo left Petersburg. At this early • Jefferson's Notes, t Tho reader will not find this air ia any of tliu inudurn EnglLh collections. hi hi* ]64 ViRQiNIAii hour we could see nothing, but we felt that the country was liilly, and the road very rough. By the time the day dawned upon us we had travelled about 20 miles, and the country appeared pret- ty fertile; we saw many flourishing fields of tobacco, but, in con- sequence of the long and severe drought, the country exhibited a parched appearance. At 33 miles from Petersburg we passed Nottaway river, by a wooden bridge. Tliis river rises about 50 miles above where we crossed it, and running & south-east course, above 100 miles, it forms a junction with the Meherrin river, in North Carolina, and, through the' medium of the Chowan river, falls into Albemarle sound. At 37 miles from the Nottaway river we crossed the Meherrin. The latter part of the distance, the country was much improved, and the road good. We now occasionally saw some crops of cotton, but the principal produce was tobacco and corn. The Meherrin river rises about 60 miles above where we crossed it, and running 60 miles more, in a south-east direction, it forms a junction with the Nottaway, before mentioned. About 12 miles beyond this last mentioned river, we passed the North Carolina line, and here I pause to take a view of the great and important state of Virginnia. ■ CHAPTER XXXVI. ^ Virginia. UEFORE I proceed to give a general account of this state, I may notice, that a most important service has been rendered to its geography, by the publication of the Notes of Mr. Jefferson ; ft work replete with valuable information, and exhibiting in every page the marks of a vigorous intellect and a philosophic mind. This work may be justly considered as the basis of the geography of the state of Virginia ; and though, from the progressive nature of the subject, it does not now contain the necessary informa- tion, on some points, yet the ttaveller in this state will find it a most valuable companion ; and by giving it a careful perusal, will be amply rewarded for his trouble. " The Notes were written in the year 1781, and somewhat VIRGINIA. 165 corrected and enlarged in 1782, in answer to queries proposed to the author, by a foreigner of distinction (M. de Marbois, secre- tary of the French legation,) then residing in America." The work is arranged on the following plan. «1 Boundaries. 13 Constitution. 2 Rivers. ' • 14< Luws. 3 Sea-ports. ' "' 15 Colleges, buildings, and roads. 4 Mountains. " 16 Proceedings as to tories. 5 Cascades. 17 Religion. 6 Productions, mineral, vegeta- 18 Manners. ble, and animal. 19 Manufactures. 7 Climate. 20 Subjects of commerce. 8 Population. 21 Weights, measures, and money. 9 Military force. 22 Public revenue. 10 Marine force. 23 Histories, memorials, and state 11 Aboiigines. ' papers." 12 Counties and towns. • . - With three numbers of an Appendix. It is from this valuable work that the facts exhibited in tho following short sketch are chiefly taken ; and wherever the brevi- ty of the subject would admit, I have given them in Mr. Jeffer- son's own elegant language, although I have adhered to my ori- ginal arrangement of the various subjects. It may be observed here, that since Mr. Jefferson's Notes were compiled, Kentucky has been formed into a separate state, which makes a material al- teration in the dimensions of the state of Virginia. . Virginia is situated between 36° 30' and 39° 43' north latitude, and 1° east, and 6° 25' west longitude. The extreme length of the state from east to west is 442 miles, and the extreme breadth from the North Carolina line to the Pennsylvania line is 235 1 but it may be observed that there is a small part of the state that stretches along the banks of the Ohio, to the west of Pennsylvania, about 60 miles long, and on an average 10 broad; and there is another small part, about 55 miles long and 12 broad, to the east of the Chesapeak. The area is computed at 70,500 square miles, being nearly as large as the whole island of Britain, com- puted at 77,24C. The number of acres in Virginia is 45,120,000. The face of the country is somewhat assiniilated to Pennsyl- vania, including Jersey, Delaware, and Maryland, The eastern part extends along the iea coast alout 115 miles, of which the outlet W 'I'KIII'i*^'^ 166 TBAVELS IN of the Chcsapeak, already noticed, occupies 20 ; and this elegiint confluence of waters, so often referred to, forms a great variety in this part of the state. From the sea coast to the head of the tidewaters, about 100 miles, the country is mostly leval, anda- bounds with swamps. From thence to the mountains it is agree- ably uneven, and affords delightful prospects. Tlie mountainous district is about 100 miles in breadth, and the ridges continue, AS in Pennsylvania, to range from north-east to south-west. Be- yond the mountains the country is much variegated — here swell. ing out into considerable hills, — there subsiding into agreeable valleys ; and so contiimes to the Ohio, about GO miles. The Al- legany chain is the ridge which divides the waters of the Atlantic from the Mississippi, and its summit is more elevated above the ocean than that of the others : but its relative lieight, compared with the base on which it stands, is not so great, because the country rises behind the successive ridges like steps of stairs. The most elevated point does not exceed 4000 feet, and few aiuouiit to more than 2500. • The whole of the Atlantic rivers have been already noticed ; the others are but few. The state is watered to the westward by the Ohio upwards of 240 miles, and the Great Sandy river forms the boundary, for upwards of 100 miles, between it and Kentuc- ky. The most important river, to the westward, is the Great Kanhaway, " a river of considerable note for the fertility of its lands, and still more, as leading towards the head waters of James river. Nevertheless, it is doubtful whether its great and numer- ous falls will admit a navigation but at an expence to which it will require ages to render its inhabitants equal. The great obstacles begin at what are called the great falls, 90 miles above its mouth, below which are only 5 or 6 rapids, and these passa- ble, with some difficulty, even at low water. From the falls to the mouth of Greenbriar is 100 miles, and thence to the lead mines 120. It is 280 yards wide at its mouth."* *'The little Kanhaway is 150 yards wide at the mouth, and is navigable lor 10 miles only."f The Shenandoah river rises in the interior of the country, and running a north-east course, of about 250 miles, through the great Limestone valley, parallel to the mountains, falls into the • Jeflcrsoh-s Notes. t Ibid. l,^ 'ii I VIRGINIA. 167 Potomac just above the Blue Ridge. The junction of the rivers, and the passage through the Blue Ridge is snid to be one of the finest scenes in nature, and is thus elegantly described by Mr. Jef- ferson. " You stand on a very high point of land. On your right comes up tlie Shenandoah, having ranged along the ^oot of the mountain an hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also. — In the moment of their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass off to the sea. " The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opi* nion that this earth has been created in time ; that the mountains were formed first ; that the rivers began to flow afterwards ; that, in this place particularly, they have been dammed up by the Blue Ridge of mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley ; that continuing to rise, they have at length broken over at this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its sum- rait to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, but particularly on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their disrupture and avul- sion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corro- borate the impression. — But the distant finishing which nature has given to the picture is of a very different character. — It is a true contrast to the foreground. — It is as placid and delightful as that is wild and tremendous. — For thj inountain being cloven asunder, fihe presents to your eye, through the cleft, a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult roaring around, to pass through the breach, and participate of the calm below. Here the eye ultimately composes itself; and that way the road happens act- ually to lead. — You cross the Potomac above the junction, pass a- long its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about 20 miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine country around it. This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic ; yet there are peo- ple who have spent their whole lives within half a dozen of miles* and have never been to survey these monuments of n war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its centre.*" ' ' ' ■ ' " The only remarkable cascade in this country is that of the fal!- Jefferson's Natas* i ii i"i 'U r. illicit J i. tii I6S VIRGINIA, ing springs in Augusta : it is a water of James river, w^ere it is called Jackson's river, rising in the warm spring, and flowing into that valley. About three quarters of a mile from its source it falls over a rock 200 feet, into the valley below. The sheet of water is broken in its breadth by the rock, in two or three peaces, but not ai all in its height. Between the sheet and the rock at the bottom you may walk across dry."* In the limestone country there are many caverns of very consi- derable extent. " The most noted is called Madison's cave, andis on the north side of the Blue Ridge, near the intersection of the Rockingham and Augusta line with the south fork of the southern river of Shenandoah. It is in a hill of about 200 feet perpendicular height, the ascent of which, on one side, is so steep that you may pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washes its base. The entrance of the cave is, in this side, about two-thirds of the way up. It extends into the earth about 300 feet, bA-anching into subordinate caverns, sometimes ascending a little, but more gene- rally descending, and at length terminates, in two different place;, at basins of water of unknown extent, and which I siiould judge to be nearly on a level with the water of the river." " The vault of this cave is of solid limestone, from 20 to 40 or 50 feet high, through which the water is continually percolating. This trickling down the sides of the cave has incrusted them over in the form of elegant drapery ; and dripping from the top of the vault, generates on that and on the base below, stalactites of a conical form, some of which have met, and formed massive columns."! Another of these caves is near the North Mountain in Frederick county. " The entrance into this is on the top of an extensive 1 idgo. You descend 30 or 40 feet, as into a well, from whence the cave then extends, nearly horizontally, 400 feet into the earth, pre- serving a breadth of from 20 to 50 feet, and height of from 5 to I'i let't. After entering this cave a few feet, the mercury, which was in the open air at 50°, rose to 57° "X " At the Panther gap, in the ridge which divides the waters of the Cow and Calf Posture, is what is called the Blowing cave. It ^ in the side of a hill, is of about. 100 feet diameter, and emits ecu- fctantly a current of air of such force as .o keep the weeds prostrate for 20 yardi before it. It is strongest in dry frosty weather, am! |; ■ ■•. ... ;!■ t ■' -S 'Ml'! rmi'iW' * Jv'fiM-Fgn'M Notes. lb. \ It). VIRGINIA. 1^9 weakest in long spells of rain."* " There is another blowing cave in the Cumberland mountain, about a mile from the Carolina line.'*f The Natural Bridge, in this state, is one of the most sublime of nature's works. " It is on the ascent of a hill, which seems to have been cloven through its length by some great convulsion. The fis- sure, just at the bridge, is, by some admeasurements, 270 feet deep, by others only 205. It is about 45 feet wide at the bottom, and 90 at the top ; this of course determines the length of the bridge, and its height from the water. Its breadth in the middle, is about 60 feet but more at the ends ; and the thickness of the mass, at the summit of the arch, about 40 feet. A part of this thickness is con- stituted by a coat of earth, which.gives growth to many large trees. The residue, with the hill on both sides, is one solid rock of lime- stone. The arch approaches the semi-elliptical form, but the larger axis of the ellipsis, which pruld be the chord of the arch, is many times longer than the transverse. Though the sides of this bridge are provided in some parts with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few men have resolution to walk to them, and look over into the a» bvss. You involuntarily fall on your hands and your feet, creep to the parapet and peep over it. Looking down from this height a- bouta minute, gave me a violent head-ach. If the view from the top be painful and intolerable, that from below is delightful in an equal extreme. It is impossible for the emotions arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond what they are here : so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so light, and springing, as it were, up to heaveh ! the rapture of the spectator is really indescribable. The fissured conti- nuing narrow, deep, and straight for a considerable distance above and below the bridge, opens a short but very pleasing view of the North Mountain on one side, and Blue Ridge on the other, at the distance each of th* m of about five miles. This bridge is in the county of Rockbridge, to which it has given name, and affords a public and very commodious passage over a valley which cannot be crossed elsewhere for a considerable distance. The stream pass- ing under it is called Cedar creek. It is a water of James* river and sufficient in the driest reasons to turn & grist-mill, though its tbuntiiin is not more than two miles above.":}: "* There are a great variety or minerals and mineral springs in the state. Iron is very plenty, and several mines of lead have been • Jeffunon's Notes. t H». t lU 22 170 TIRGINIA. I. < '::■. ki L 1>! eypcned. Some copper, black-lead, and precious stone» have been found » and in one instance gold wait discovered. Limestone is plenty, and coul is abundant at Richmond, in some places among the mountains, and in the western country. Of the mineral springs, the warm and hot springs, and the sweet spring, are the most re- markable. They are situated near the sources of James river, at the foot of the Allegany mountains, about 42 miles apart. They are now well known, and much resorted to. There are sulphur springs in several places ; and on the Kanhaway river, 67 miles from its outlet, there is a very remarkable air spring. The hole from which it issues is of the capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, and tlie currant of air so strong " as to give the sand about its orifice the motion which it has in a boiling spring. On presenting a lighted candle or torch within IS inches of the hole, it flames up in g . column of 18 inches in diameter, and 4 or 5 feet in height, 'which sometimes burns out within 20 minutes, and at other times hai been known to continue burning for three days, and to have been left in that state. The flume is unsteady, of the density of burn* ing spirits, and smells like burning pit-coal."* *' There is a simi- lar spring on Sandy river, the flame of which is a coluum about 12 inches diameter, and three feet high. *'f The soil in the low part of the state is sondy, except on tlie banks of the rivers, where it is very rich. Between the head of the tide-waters and the mountains, it exhibits a great variety, and A considerable portion is good. Among the mountains there is a great deal of poor land, but it is interspersed with rich valleys. Beyond the mountains the soil is generally rich and fertile. The climate of Virginia is very various, and is subject to great and sudden changes. In the greater part of the country below tlic head of the tide- waters, the summers are hot and sultry, and the winters mild. From thence to the foot of the mountains the air li more pure and elastic, and both summers and winters are scveial degrees of temperature below the low couiitry. Among the mountains, the summers are delirhtful, though sometimes the heat is very great. To the westward the climate is temperate, the Bumineivs being cooler and the winters warmer than on the seu coast. Except in the neighbourhood of stagnant waters, in the low couu- f/i Virginia has, upon the whole, u healthy climate. i • JclTcrRon's Notes t I»>ui. Thef in 1610. of Fowl dation f the Indi The sam where sli She diei dcscenda ed to uj seven de the war 1776, an 2 senator The stj 90 count persons, to the sqi There which ha; cumstano gable rive and they 1 Norfoll state. It tants, wh extended < merce an long peril probably and its wa of the All expressed the Chesa the interio single tow be divided upon thos( the follow] II "N^r VIRGINIA. 171 ft have been imestonc ig aces among eral springs, the most re- kes river, at 3art. They are sulphur er, 67 miles The hole 3ns, and the ,s orifice the ig a lighted nes up in a eight, 'which er times ha> to have been sity of burn- ere is asimi- lolumn about cept on tlw the head ot variety, and ns there is a rich vallcvf. rtile. ect to great ry below tlic try, and the ins the air is •s are scveval Among the mes the heat ipcrate, the .he sea const. lie low couu- I The first permanent settlement of Virginia was by the English, in 1610. In 1613, a Mr. Rolf married Pocahontas, the daughter of Powhatan, an Indian chief, and the connexion was the foun- dation for a friendly commerce between the English settlers and the Indians. In 1616 the culture of tobacco became general. The same year Mr. Rolf and his wife Pocahontas visited England, ■ where she was introduced at court, and treated with great respect. She died the year following at Gravesend, and left a son, whose descendants still survive in Virginia. In 1618 the colony amount- ed to upwards of 60,000 v>eopIc. In 1784- Virginia appointed seven delegates to the first congress, and took a decisive part in the war for independence. The state constitution was framed in 1776, and was the first in the United States. Virginia now sends 2 senators and 22 representatives to congress. The state is divided into an eastern and western district, and 90 counties. In 1800 it contained a population of 540,353 free persons, and 34'5,796 slaves, in all 886,149; being upwards of 12 to the square mile. There are no towns of any material consequence in Virginia, which has been attributed, and probably with reason, to the cir- cumstance of the state being so completely intersected with navi- gable rivers, that a market is brought almost to every man's door, and they have no inducement to establish large cities. Norfolk is the largest town, and the most commercial in the state. It contained, by the census of 1800, nearly 7000 inhabi- tants, which have since greatly encreased.* It is a place of very extended commerce, principally in flour and tobacco, and its com- merce and population will probably continue to encrease for a long period. Mr. Jefferson remarks, in his Notes, *' that it will probably be the emporium for all the trade of the Chesapcak bay and its waters, and a canal of S or 10 miles will bring to it all that of the Albemarle sound and its waters." The same sentiment was expressed in conversation with me. But it is to be observed, that the Chesa^eak bay and its waters are navigable a long way into the interior of the country, in consequence of which, probably no single town or city will be the emporium for all the trade ; it will be divided among many. We accordingly find numerous towns upon those waters,* many of which have already been noticed; and the following may be added. ij&i •JJy tlie census of ialO, tlioy iimount to 9193. )73 VIRGINIA. mm liif^li, ' i m . On Rappahaimoc, Urbanna, Port Royal, Falmouth. On Potomac and its waters, Dumfries, Colchester, Winches* ter, Staunton. . On York river and its waters, York, Newcastle, Hano^'er. On James river and its waters, Portsmouth, Hampton, Suffolk, Smithfield, Williamsburg, Manchester, Charlottesville. There is no very important town in the western part of the state. Wheell.ig, on the Ohio, will probably increase more than any other, The state has of late been considerably improved by roads, but in that branch much yet remains to be done. The canal contem- ))lated by Mr. Jefferson between the waters of the Chesapeak and Albemarle sound has been cut. It is 16 miles in length, and an- swers a most valuable purpose. Considerable improvements have been made upon the navigation of the Shenandoah river ; and there are several very important roads and canals projected. As to the buildings, Mr. Jefferson remarks, " The genius of architec- ture seems to have shed its maledictions over this land. Buildings are often erected by individuals at considerable expence. To give these symmetry and taste would not increase their cost. It would only change the arrangement of the materials, and form the com- bination of the members. This would often cost less than the burden of bai'barous ornaments with which these buildings are sometimes charged. But the first principles of the art are un- known, and there exists scarcely a model among us sufhciently chaste to give an idea of them. Architecture being one of the fine arts, and, as such, within the department of a professor of the college, according to the new arrangement, perhaps a spark may fall on some young subjects of natural taste, kindle up their genius, and produce a reformation in this elegant and useful art." Great improvements have doubtless been made since the year 1782, par* ticularly in the towns ; but in the country the houses arc mostly composed of wood, and few of them that I saw had either symme- try of design, or elegance of execution to recommend them. Upon the whole, on this branch, the Virginians seem to be far be- hind their northern neighbours, and there is still much room for the exercise of architectural genius. The great mass of the population in Virginia are farmers, or, as they are termed hci'e, ])lanters. The principal branches of agriculture for exportation, arc wheat and tobacco; and the farms produce in plenty, ludiiin corn, rye, barley, buck-wheat, &c. VIAGINIA. 173 '■•4 Hemp and flax are abundant, and considerable quantities of cotton are raised in the southern part of the state. Indigo is cultivated with success, and the silk-worm is a native of the country, though not much attended to. The fields likewise produce potatoes, both sweet and common, turnips, parsnips, carrots, pumpkins, and groundnuts; and of grasses, there are clovers, red, white, and yellow, timothy, ray, greensward, blue grass, and crab grass. The orchards abound in fruit ; apples, pears, peaches, quinces, cherries, nectarines, apricots, almonds, and plums. The domestic animals thrive well, horses, cows, sheep, hogs, poultry ; and there is a great variety of wild game. The manufactures of the state are mostly of the domestic kind. I have net heard of any established upon a large scale. Jblcnce the quantity imported annually from Britain must be immense. The principal port in the slate being Norfolk, it carries on a vigor- ous trade with Europe, in the surplus produce of the state, and imports largely of dry goods ; but a great portion of the trade of the ctate is carried on through the medium of other places, par- ticularly New York. The exports of the state, in 1805, amounted to 5,606,620 dol- lars, of which the greater part was domestic produce; but as no part of the produce sent to other states is included in the custom-house returns, I should be inclined to estimate the surplus produce at nearly double that amount, and theur imports, principally of manufactures, at nearly as much, of which probably one half is from Britain. The Notes on Virginia contain ample information on the state '. of society. Mr. Jefferson considers that it is materially afFectsd by the existence of slavery. " There must doubtless," says lie, 4 " be an unhappy influence on the manners of our people by the I existence of slavery among us. The whole commerce between master and slave is a perpetual exercise of the most boisterous passions, the most unremitting despotism on the one part, and degrading submissions on the other. Our children see this, and learn to imitate it ; for man is an imitative animal. This quality is the germ of all education in him : from his cradle to his grave, he is learning to do what he sees others do. If a parent could find no motive, either in his philanthrophy or his self-love, for restraining the intemperance of passion towards his slave, it fcnould always be a sufficient one that his child is present. But lj;eueraily it is not sullicient. The parent stormsi, the child looks 174 VIRGINIA. I h\:. It mW. U-H on, catchos the llnenttients of wrath, puts on the same nirs in t)ie circle of smaller slaves, gives a loose to the worst of passions, and thus nursed, educated, and cokcrcised in tyranny, cannot but be stamped by it with odious peculiarities. The man must be a prodigy who can retain his manners and morals undepravfd by such circumstances. And with what execration should the states- man be loudeil, who, permitting one half of the citizens thus to trample on the rights of the other, transforms those into despots, and these into enemies, destroys the morals of the one part, and the amor patruc of the other. For if a slave can have a eountrv in this world, it must be any other in preference to that in which he is born to live and labour for another; in which he must lock up the faculties of his nature, contribute as iiir as depends on his individual endeavours to the enslavement of the human race, or entail his own miserable condition cm the endless generations proceeding from him. With the morals of the people their indus- try also is destroyed. For, in a warm climate, no man will la* bour for himself who can make another labour for him. Tim is so true, that of the proprietors of slaves a very small propor- tion indeed are ever seen to labour. And can the liberties of a nation be thought secure when we have removed their only firm basis, a conviction in the minds of the people that these liberties arc the gift of God ? that they are not to be violated but with his wrath ? Indeed I tremble for my country when I reflect that God is just ; that his justice cannot sleep for ever ; that consi- dering numbers, nature, and natural means only, a revolution of the wheel of fortune, and exchange of situation, is among possi- ble events ; that it may become probable by supernatural inter' ference ! The Almighty has no attribute that can take side with us in such a contest. — But it is impossible to be temperate, and to pursue this subject through the various considerations of poli- cy, of morals, of history natural ond civil. We must be con- tented to hope they will force tlieir way into every one's mind. 1 think a change already perceptible, since the origin of the present revolution. The spirit of the master is abating; that of the slave rising from the dust, his condition inoUifying, the way, I hope, preparing, under the auspices cf Heaven, for a total emancipation; and that this is disposed, in the order of events, to be with the consent of the masters, rather than by their extiqoation." a This elegant extracti which I could not think of abridgingi VIRGINIA. 175 doe? honour to tlie head and heart of its author ; nnd it is pro- bable from the great reputation which he iiolds ajuong hi4 countrymen, that it may have produced a considerable effect in assuaging the evils of slavery. Virginia has long since prohibited the importation oi' slaves, and has by her members in congress, always supported the question for a total prohibition of that branch, the most odious feature in it. And it is but justice hero to observe, that the introtluction of slavery in this, and in the other states, was a part of the policy of the colonial SYSTE>r. Had it not unfortunately taken place before the revolution, it is probable it never would have taken place ; for almost every person, with whom 1 have conversed on the subject, have expressed their opinion, that it is not only hurtful to public morals, but contrary to every maxim of sound policy. But it exists ; it is incorporated with the whole sytem of civil society ; its influence has extended through evrry branch of domestic economy ; and to do it away must be a work of time. There are two colleges in the state ; one of them the college of William and Mary, very liberally endowed. There are several academies, and schools in each county ; and there are numerous teachers in private families, as tutors. The means, in short, for educating the wealthy are ample, and extensively applied; but the sytem seems to be defective, so far as the mass of the people are concerned, and that important branch deserves the early at- tention of an enlightened legislature. At the period of the revolution, Virginia being the first state that drew up a new constitution, it was necessarily crude and un- digested; and much of the old leaven remained. The subject of religion, in particular, was not placed on that footing of perfect freedom which is the natural heritage of man, the gift of nature's God; and the subject affords Mr. Jefferson scope for the following remarks: " By our act of assembly of 1705, c. 30, if a person, brought up iu the Christian religion, denies the being of a Cod, or the Trinity, or asserts there are more Gods than one, or de- nies the christian religion to be true, or the Scriptures to be of divine authority, he is punishable for the first offence by incapa- city to hold any office or employment, ecclesiastical, civil, or mili- tary ; on the second, by disability to sue, to take any gift or lega- cy, to be guardian^ executor, or administrator, and by three yeari imprisonment without bail. A father's right to the custody of ■ US ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. 1.0 ill 1.25 IM IM ^ 136 ■■■ 2.0 li Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 vernment has its spe- cific principles. Ours perhaps are more peculiar than those of any otll^;* in the universe. It is a composition of the freest principles of the EngUsh constitution, with others derived from natural rig^' VIRGINIA. 181 ajid natural rcasoD. 1 o these nothiii*^ can be more opposed tliaii tlie maxims of absolute monarchies. Yet from such we urc to cx- ixxt the greatest number of cmi<{rant8. They will hr'uv^ with theni the principles of the govenimcnts they leave, imbibed in their early youth ; or if able to throw tlicni offi it will be in exchange for an unbounded licentiousness, parsing, as is usual, from one extreme to another. It would be n miracle were thry to stop precisely at the iioiut of temperate liberty. These principles, with their language, they will transmit to their children. In proportion to their num- bers, they will share with us the legislation. They will infuse into it their spirii, warp and bias its direction, and render it a heteroge- neous, incoherent, distracted mass. I may appeal to experience (luring the present contest, for a verification of these conjectures." After a few other reflections, Mr. Jefferson adds — " If they come of themselves, they are entitled to all the rights of citizenship; but I doubt the expediency of inviting them by extraordinary encou- ragements. I mean not that these doubts should extend to useful artificers. The policy of that measure depends on very different considerations. Spare no expense in obtaining them. They will after a while go to the plough and the hoc ; but, in the mean time, they will teach us something we do not know. It is not so in agri- culture: the different state of that among us does not proceed from a vrant of knowledge merely ; it is from our having such quantities of land, to waste as we please. In Europe the object is to make the most of their land — labour being abundant : here, it is to make the most of our labour — land being abundant." * ,• .- , On Manufactures, Agriculture, and Commerce. > t i I' " We never had an interior trade of any importance. Our ex- terior commerce has suffered very much from the beginning of the present contest. During this time we have manufactured within our families the most necessary articles of clothing. Those c£ cotton will bear some comparison with the same kinds of manufac- ture in Europe ; but those of wool, flax, and hemp are very coarse^ unsigiitly, and unpleiusant : and such is our attachment to agricul- ture, and such our preference for foreign manufactures, that, be it wise or unwise, our people will certainly return as soon as they can, to the raising raw materials, and exchanging them for finer manufactures than they are able to execute themselves. »« • »" «•♦ " The political economists of Europe- have established it as a. hi 182 VIRGINIA. principle that every state should endeavour to manufacture fur itself; and this principle, like many others, we transfer to Amcri. ca, without calculating the diiTcrence of circumstance which should often produce a different result. In Envopc, the lands arc citlier cultivated, or locked up against the cultivator. Manufacture most therefore be resorted to of necessity, not of choice, to support the surplus of their people. But we have an immensity of land, court- ing the industry of the husbandman. Is it best then that all our citi- zens should be employed in its improvement,or that one half Hhonld be called off from that to exercise manufactures and handicraft arts for the other ? Those who labour in the earth are the CHOSEN PEOPLE OF GoD, if cvcr he had a chosen people, whose breasts he has made his peculiar deposit for substantial and genuine virtue. It is the focus in which he keeps alive that sacred fire, which otherwise might escape from the face of the earth. Corrup- tion of morals in the mass of cultivators, is a phenomenon of which no age nor nation has furnished an example. It is the mark set on those, who, not looking up to heaven, to their own soil and industry, as does the husbandman, for their subsistence, depend for it on the casualties and caprice of customers. Dependence be- gets subservience and venality, suffocates the germ of virtue, and prepares fit tools for the designs of ambition. This, the natural progress and consequence of the arts, has sometimes perhaps been retarded by accidental circumstances: but, generally speaking, the prc^ortion which the aggregate of the other classes of the citizens bears in any state to that of its husbandmen, is the pro- portion of its unsound to its healthy parts, and is a good enough barometer whereby to measure its degree of corruption. While we have land to labour, then, let us never wish to sec our citizens occupied at a work -bench, or twirling a distaff. Carpenters, masons, and smiths are wanted in husbandry ; but for the general operations of manufacture, let our work-shops remain in Europe. It is better to carry provisions and materials to workmen there^ than to bring them to the provisions and materials, and with them their manners and principles. The loss by the transportation of commodities across the Atlantic will be made up in happiness and permanence of government. The mobs of great cities add just so much to the support of pure government, as sores do to the strength of the human body. It is the manners and spirit of a people which preserve a republic in vigour. A degeneracy in these is a canker, which soon eats to the heart of its laws and constitution." KORTU CABOLIKA. tb3 CHAPTER XXXVIl. Warreiiton, — Raleig/iy — FayctteoiUe ■ I • • Two miles from where w© entered the state of North Caroh'nOf we crossed the Roanoke river by a flat* bottomed boat. The banks where we crossed were steep and well wooded ; the soil rich and fertile. The Roanoke is composed of two principal streams, the Dan and Staunton, which rise in the mountains, and unite in the state of Virginia, about 45 miles above where we crossed it. From thence it runs a pretty crooked passage, but nearly south-east, 80 miles, to where it falls into Albemarle sound, by four diflcrent channels, near the outlet of the Chowan river. It is navigable nearly SO miles for vessels of considerable size, and for boats of from 20 to 40 tons to the falls, 70 miles from its mouth, llie land is said to be very ridi on the banks of this river, and many wealthy planters live on it. * ;*':•' ••• -,^ We travelled 16 miles, partly alorg the banks of the river, to Warrenton, where we stopped for the night. The country was fer- tile ond well improved ; the weather cloudy and rather cold. Warrenton is a neat little town, containing about 300 inhabi- tants who look well, and arc said to be mostly Europeans. The town stands on a high dry situation, and is said to be healthy. There is a very respectable academy, at which t ere arc gcncrnlly 60 or 70 students. Thursday, October 9th. We left Wnrrenton at 5 o'clock in tha morning, and travelled 25 miles, through a level, sandy country, to Louisburg, an inconsiderable village on the banks of the Tar river, which we crossed at this place. * * ' " " ♦ ■f'^' Tar river is a considerable stream, rising about SO miles above where we crossed it, and, running about 150 miles in a south east direction, falls into Pamlicoe sound. It is navigable about 30 miles to Washington, and from thence for flats to Tarborough, 90 miles from its outlet. From hence we travelled 1 G miles, the country sandy, and hav- ing a barren aspect, but the road pretty good, to Nuse river, which v»e passed by a ferry. Nu»c river rises about 40 miles above where we crossed, and, •»^ -•' 1 ( . V •..iil/V 184 THAVRI.S IN ]t running n south-east course about '2'2<) niilcA, itiUs uIho into pHnili- coe sound. It is niivigable tor scu-vcssuU 12 miles above Ne\vlM>m, for fluts 50 miles further, and for small boats nearly 'JOO miles IVuni its outlet. About ci^ht miles, tlirou;;!! a country n little more fertile nnd better improved, we reacheil Ilnleigh, and here we stoppeil for the night. The princi])al produce in the country through which wc passed this day, is cotton and Indian corn. The weather ua^ cloudy, with a shower of rain. Ualeiuii, the seat of (government of North Carolina, is hitii- ntal in north latitude 35° 56', and is nearly in the centre of the state, being IGO miles from the sea-coast. The plan of the cityi> regular, the streets crossing one another at right anglc>»>, and then is a large square in the niidiUc for the public buildings. Raleigh contained, by the census of 1800, 334 free persons and 835 slaves. The state-house cost above 15,000 dollar^. Tlitri' fire no other public buildings of impottance, and the greater part of the other buildings being of wood, the place exhibits no very flattering appearance. They have u little trade in cotton und tobacco. Friday, 10th. We set out from Raleigh ot 4 o'clock in the morning. The passengers had now all dispersed in diflerent di- rections, except the captain and myself. We had the stage to our- selves, and were as merry os ever. 15»it there were few objects ex- teriorly to excite attention, or elicit remark. The country was one continued dull scene of sand and pine barrens. Now and tlieii we passed a few piles of wood, collected for the purpose of innking tar ; and the streams we cro'-sed generally looked as if they liud been at tar -making too, being nearly us black as that comnuHlityi The elements indicated a change of weather, and recollecting the highiandman's prognostication, " lo7ig fair long foul" I felt bv anticipation u dreary tail to my journey after my agreeable friend would leave me, ami we had only this day to travel in company. In this mood I travelled 25 miles to Ulack river ; and co )tiiniin;; our course through n similar coimtry, we came to a small pluce called Avereysborough, soon after which we passed Cape Fear river. Cape Fear river is the most considerable stream in North Ca- rolina. It rises about 100 miles above Fayetteville, and running a south-east direction, upwards of 200 miles, falls into the Atlan- NORTK CAROLINA. 185 l>i tic ocean, at Cape Fear, which gives it its name. It is about three miles wide at its outlet, and there is 1 8 feet on the bar nt hiffh water. It is navigable for vessels drawing 10 or II feet, to Wilmington ; by sloops 25 miles above \N'ilmington; and by boats to Fayetteville. Hoving crossetl this river, we procectled, nearly along its western bank, 35 miles to Fuycttcville, which wo reoch- ctl about 7 o'clock. Here my agreeable travelling companion, who was a very ro- •iiicctablc merchant in the place, invited me to his house, and showed me every degree of hospitality. As no passengers were going on, he urged me to spend a couple of days with him, and as an inducement, promised to introduce me to a Scots highlander, who played delightfully on the bagpipes. I was, however, urgent to be home, and resisted all entreaty. But finding that my funds would not hold out till I reachc(t Charleston, I availed myself of his friendship to get a small supply, till I could remit fr^m thence, with which having furnished me, together with letter^- of introduc- tion to some of his friends in that city, we parted with mutual good wishes. F«j/^/m//^ contains about 1800 inhabitants, is a place of con- siderable trade, and is rising in wealth and importance. The public buildings are handsome ; and there are a considerable num- ber of mills, distilleries, breweries, and tan-yards. The principal proi'uce, carried to Wilmington market, is tobacco, wheat, flour, cotton, flaxseed, and provisions. * ■? The country round Fayetteville is generally sandy, but there are rich lands on the banks of the river, and the country is esteem- ed pretty healthy. A great many emigrants from Scotland arc settled in the neighbourhood. Saturday, 11th. The stage started this morning at 5 o'clock, and I was the only passenger. The country liecamc more anil more dismal, and was very thinly inhabitetl. The day was rainy, damp, and disagreeable ; the creeks swelled beyond their natural limits, which made crossing very diflicult ; and the people looked pale and sickly. Every thing conspired to throw me into a gloomy reverie. At one creek we found the bridge so shattered, that we had to unloose the horses and drag over the stage. On reaching Lumberton, 33 miles from Fayetteville, we stopped for the night, at the house of a very intelligent and inqjn'siiive Yankee. , 2* »^ • 1S6 1HAVEL4 IN ' Luinbcrtnn, lie told nic, coiibihtetl of 33 Iiousch, and contained IGt nhite pcopli', und it blacks, lie suid the place wqh healthy; but jinlgiiig from the countenances of the inhubituntsi I would hnve thought otiierwiso. An to the food, it did not suit my palate ttt all. ll consistcnl of bacon and brown brea were more swelled, so that we prosecuted our journey with great difliculty ; and at length we met with an accident which provd fatal to one of the horses. We came to a creek, with a bridge in a very imperfect state. It was constructed of timber; three Inrge logs were stretcheil across the creek, called sleepei's, and tlivae supported a number of mis-sha|i«n pieces, culled ruders, thrown on at random, without being fixed by either nails or pins. They liad been disturbed by the freshet in the creek, and the driver alighted to adjust them. Me then drove on; but on entering the bridge, the fore-wheels gathered the rafters in a heap, which stop- ped the progress of the carriage; and this happened just as the driver was in the act of whipping up the fore-horses. They sprung forward, and, disengaging themselves with a jerk, by pulling out the staple of the main swingletree, they set oil fidl speed, the swinglctrees rattling at their heels< We alighted, took out the other two horses, and dragged the stage over ourselves ; when, putting in the horses, we moved forward, and half a mile from the creek we found one of the fore-horses lying nearly dead, at the side of h tree. It appeared that one was stronger than the other, and hud pulled him off the road into the woods, when, dashing against a tree, the poor animul hud got his death blow. I calcu* lottid that the bridge could have been put into a substantial state ibr five dollars ; and this single accident would be a loss of at least 150. . . ' V . A few miles beyond this wc reached the stace, where we dined. Cur dinner, ns at Luniberton, was black bacon ,• our drink, ties poach brandy. But our troubles were only beginning. A uiile iioni where we dined wc liud to cross Ashpole swamp, about one- NORTH CAROLINA. 187 third of a mile in breadth; ami here I met with something new. We swam across in the Htago, and it was with difficulty that I preserved the mail from n very complete soaking. When I ob- Mrvcd the forc-horses plunge, I called out to the driver whether we must swim ? " O yes," says he, " swim away through thick and thin." I retjuested that he would remove the mnil to a higher seat. He wns not for losing time. I insisted I might be allowed to remove my trunk; and this being granted, I pre%'ailed on him to assist me in moving the mail also : which having done, he dash- ed right through the creek. Soon after this we passed the boundary line of South Carolina, 20 miles from Lumbcrton, at which I gladly pause to take a gene- ral review of the litate. CHAPTER XXXVIII. North Carolina Is situated between north latitude 33° 47' and 36° 30', and l* east and 6° 45' west longitude. Its greatest length, from east to west, is 472, and its greatest breadth, from north to south, is 188 miles. It contains 50,500 square miles, or 32,320,000 acres. The face of the country is much diversified. To the east, and south-east, there is a sea-coast of nearly 300 miles, indented with a great number of bays, the principal of which are Albemarle and Pamlicoe sounds, which receive the greater part of the rivers. On the outside of these sounds are some of the most remarkable capes in America, Cape Hatteras, and Cape Look-out, t^nd to the southward is Cape Fear. The whole country below the head of tide water, about 100 miles into the interior, is low and sandy, abounding in swamps, and presents an evident appearance of having been at one period overflowed by the sea. The country from the head of the tide waters, towardsthc mountains, is agree- ably uneven, and much improved in value. Among the mountains it is exactly similar to the state of Virginia; biit being a few degrees to the south, the value of the country is improved, and the sea- suns in that district are delightful* The state is, upon the whole, well watered. The rivers fall into the Atlantic Ocean, and have been all noticed, except somo ASB NQHTII CiBOUfiUL. to tlie jouthward, which I shall have to cross in my way to Charleston. Jtis supposed that this state is well supplied in valuable iniius rah, particularly in tlie mountainous district. Iron ore is vcrjf plenty, and gold has been found in coniaderable quantities. Thcce are various mineral springs. The soil of North Carolina is very similar to that of Virj^iuia. The low part of the state, which is a considerable portion of it, is low, sandy« and barren, abounding in pine trees; and the swamps, which are very large, produce cedars and bay trees. There ore, in this distinct, good tracts of meadow land along tlie rivers, which are well cultivated, and produce abundantly. Frora the head of the tide waters to the mountains, the soil improves, and is very various. The mountainous district is very similar to that in Virginia. The climate in the low country is subject to great and sudden changes, and is often unhealthy in the fall. Generally, the win- ters are mild, but very changeable. The spring is early, but sub- ject to occasional frosts. The summers are hot and sultry, and the autumns are serene and beautiful ; but the exhalations frofn the decaying vegetable matter in the marshes and swamps are very injurious to health. In the upper country, the weather is more settled, and, being free from swamps, is healthy. Among the mountains, the climate is remarkably pleasant. The history of the first settlement of North Carolina is con- siderably lost in obfc'iurity. In 1710, it contained about 1200 fencible men, when the first permanent settlement was made, un- der the direction of the proprietors of South Carolina, in 1728, the proprietors having sold their right to the crown, it was erected into a royal government. The inhabitants took an early and de- dsive part in the war for indq^endece, and the state suffered very severely. In 1774, they appointed three delegates to the first con.'Tress, and adopted a state constitution in 1 776. It now sends two b'jnators and twelve representatives to congress. The state is divided into 8 districts and 60 counties. The population, in 1800, was 478,103, of whom 133,296 were slaves, being upwards of 10 persons to the square mile. The state has made considerable improvements in agriculture, commerce, and national wealth ; but it exhibits a barren prorpcct NOHTH CAROLINA. 189 to ihc traveller. The post road runs tlu-ough the pooi'cst part of it, and, to use the language of Mr. Jcficrsoii, " the genius of arch- itecture seems to have shed his maledictions over the land." The buildings are mostly of wood, some of thcni painted, and sorae not; and they exhibit a very unsiglitly appearance. Like Vir- ginia, there are no large towns, and there seems to be no occasion tor thum. Mankind arc probably better accommodated by a great number of small towns than by a few large cities. Nrdlace of dcj.ot for a large back country, it cai'rics on considerable trade, foreign aiul domes- tic. The town contains about 1700 inliabitants. The houses are mostly built of wood, and the town has suHored severely irofii fire at various times. Edmtonf on Albemarle Sound, is one of the oldest towns m the state, and was formerly the seat of the royal governors. It ia favourably situated for trade, but is low and unhealthy. It con- tains about 750 inhabitants. Raleigh and Fayetteville have been noticed. The others of most note are Washington^ Tarborotighy and Hillsborough, on the Tar river; Halifax, on the Roanoke; Salem, on the Yadkin; Morgantown, on the Catawba ; and Bcaiiford, near Cape Look- out. The population of these places is from about 300 to 700,; aad tlicrc are mn^iy villages ^xmtaining from 100 to 300. The roads and bridges arc yet in an imperfect state, and much remains to be done to make travellii^ comfortable. The inhabitants arc mostly farmers, and produce on their farjns every nccet^ary of life. The principal commodities for sale are tar, tur})cntine, pitch, rosin, tinibcr, bees- wax, com, cotton, and to- bacco. Almost every iamily in the country manufacture IImmt own clulliiDg, so that the Briti&h trade to this state is not great* HOT importaot. The greater part of it i& carried on throiigh th« 190 TRAVELS IN medium of Charleston, or the northern states. The direct ex- ports amounted, in 1805, to 779,903 dollars. ' The state of society is somewhat similar to Virginia. Many of the planters are wealthy, frank, and hospitable ; and considerable efforts hare been made to place education on a respectable foot- ing. A university has been founded, and endowed by the state; and there are several respectable academies. But the most im- portant branch, that which has for its object the general diffu. sion of knowledge, has been neglected until of late. In 1808, however, an act passed the legislature to establish common schools throughout the state, which, if followed up, will produce good effects. The legislative authority is vested in a senate and house of com- mons, together styled the General Assembly, and chosen annual- ly. Senators must be possessed of 300 acres of land ; represen- tatives of 100. The electors of senators must be possessed of 50 acres of land ; and of representatives a freehold in some town. The executive is vested in a governor, elected by the General Assembly, and he is not eligible to serve more than three yean in six. He is assisted by a council of state, consisting of seven persons, elected by the Assembly annually. The judiciary con- sists of a supreme court, a court of equity, and a court of admi- ralty. The judges are appointed by the Assembly. '^' ::v > 4 k -1 ~-i ,''i c^Vvt CHAPTER XXXIX. ^^ Wiltony — GeorgctowHf — Charleston. ,. |. Although we had passed into a different state, we had neither a more beautiful country, nor a better road. The one was | flat, swampy, and dismal ; the other was bad in the extreme. We passed a small plantation, a mile from the state line, after I which we had three miles of a solitary road, when we came to a methodist church, attended by a pretty decent looking congre- gation. Five miles from thence is Swimming creek ; but we d not swim here, though we had to 'wade a long way. A mile | farther we reached Little Pedee, where we left the stage, and crossed in a canoe to Ford's, where we stopped for the night SOUTH CAROLINA. 191 The ilay was moist and warm, rather sultry, but on the whole not disagreeable. The country was more imminently wretched than any I had yet seen, and excited a wonder how it was in- habited at all, when there is so much good land, and so many fine climates, in other parts of the United States. Little Pedee river rises about 80 miles above where we crossed it; it runs a south-east course about 130 miles, and falls into the Great Pedee. It is a considerable stream, and at this time was swelled by the late rains to a great extent. It is not navigable. Monday, October liJth. On getting up this morning, at daylight, I found the driver, a young lad of about 18, was not inclined to go on with the stage, and Mr. Ford, the postmaster, seemed to be very indifferent whether he went or not. The driv- er alleged that there was a bridge broken on a creek about 1 8 miles distant, which he could not possibly get across, and it was of no use to try. I asked when it would be paiisable. He replied drily, " Perhaps in a month." " And are we to wait here a month?'' "I suppose so," said he, with great sangfroid. I appealed to the postmaster, but he appeared willing to leave it to the driver's discretion. Thus situated, I resolved to take a deci- sive course, and told them, that though I wus unacquainted with the post-office regulations, yet it pppeared to me that the stage ought not to be stopped, but by an unsurmountable difficulty, and, after the answers I had received, I would require to see that difficulty before 1 was satisfied of it. If therefore the stage was detained here, I would draw up a representation of the case, and send it to the postmaster-general. The young man said that tiiere was a bye-patH through the woods, which he could take, and perhaps get over the creek, provided he liad any asbistance. Another driver was in the house, who wished to go to George- town, and having no money, he offered to give his assistance if they would give him a passage free. This the postmaster objected to. The sum was only about three dollars, and I pointed out the impropriety of detaining the stage two days for such a trifle ; but it was to no purpose ; and I was obli^ 19s thavkls in tm of a niib on each side. About n mile beyond this the driver took a pnsmge throui^h the woods, the nstiistant driver acting as a pioneer; anil after travelling in this way nearly three miles, we came to the creek, concerning which we had the altercation in the morning. It was not broad, but very deep, and choaked up with roots and brush* wood. I did not like its appearance ; but there was no alternative, we must either go through or return. Having secured the mail from the water, and taken some precautions in case of being upset, we plunged in, swam right across, reached the opposite bank in safe- tj', and travelling about a mile more through trackless woods, we regained the road, very much to my satisfaction. I bestowed much applause on the two drivers for their good conduct, and at the fim tavern we came to, treated them with a glass of grog. So our morn- ing's scolding was forgotten, and we travelled on very agreeably through this disagreeable country. \Vc were hardly ever out of swamps and creeks. Six miles from our sxs>mming creek, we reached Maple swamp ; and here the bridge was also broken, and we had to get across in a flat, which detained us a considerable time. Five miles beyond this we reached the Great Pedee river, which we crossed by a ferry. '. This is a fine flowing river ; next to the Santee, the largest in Sduth Carolina. It ri>.es in nordi Cavolina among the mountains, and has in that state the name of Yadkin river. From thence it continues a south-east course, and after being joined by large tribu- tary streams, particulaily Little Pedee, Lynch's creek, and Black river, it falls into the sea, 12 miles below Georgetown. Its whole length is upwards of 300 miles, and it water§ an extensive tract oi country. It is navigable for sea vessels to Georgetown, and for smallir vessels 100 miles higher up. It is about 400 yards broad where we crossed it, and flows with a strong current. Its banks are said to be fertile ; but in the low country are very unhealthy. We stopped here for breakfast, but the family were all sick with fever and ague, in consequence of which wc were long detained. It was, however, at last produced, and consisted of u^isightly coffW) brown bread, some bacon, and butter, which looked like " train oil thickened with salt." I had just put the cup to my lips, when 1 heard a violent retching in the adjoining room, the door of which immediately opened, and out came such a smell as filled the room with a perfume somewhat different from that of Arabia Felix. I could not bear it, and urged to be gone; but the drivers seemed to SOUTH CAnOLINA. 193 be accustomed to these sort of scenes, and ate their coarse furc with jtll the composure imaginable. We left this wretched place at half past 1 1 o'clock, and two miles distant came into the old post-road, which gave us a great degree of pleasure, as the road from Lumbeiton was all a new line, and des- perately bad. However, our tronbles were not over ; for, a few miles after entering this road, we came to Lynch's creek, and here the bridge was not only gone, but the water was spread over the face of the earth nearly three quarters of a mile in breadth : there was a house at the other side, but the view was obstructed by the woods, and we had to halloo for half an liour before we were heard. At last, to use an Irish phrase, we heard the voice of oars plashing in the water, and soon saw two black fellows paddling a huge flat, on which we were taken across. Passing over many creeks and swamps of inferior note, and there is hardly any thing else to excite attention in this country, we reach- ed Blackmingo creek, at 4> o'clock in the afternoon. This creek had swelled to a great extent, and part of the bridge was gone, so that we could not get over the stage nor horses. We got across with the mail, which we delivered at the post-office, where we were informed that the Georgetown mail had not arrived ; and so wo were set fast, at length* at a miserable little place called Willton, The whole city consisted of only about 15 or 20 houses ; as for public buildings, there were none ; but there was a tolerably good wooden building, at which I was told a Scotsman kept a dry-goods iitore. Aye ! thinks I to myself, notwithstanding the eminent wretchedness of the place, Saundeis has found out that something is to be done here. However, Paddy was not behind hand with hiiri. The greater part of the other inhabitants were Irish people. I took up my lodgings at the head inn, (there were two in t'.j city) and I found my landlord a civil obliging little Irishman. 1 told him my adventures in the stage from Lumberton, at which he laughed heartily, observing, " By J s, you must have had a tough time of it, and I'll warrant you have found the ground of your stomach : well, well, the old woman will have something ready pre- sently, and I'll see to have a little bit of beef; and though it's salt, we'll have plenty of vegetables to it, and some pratees, the seed of which I got from old Ireland ; and, in the mean time, we'll just have a little drop of something to drink peace and good neighbour- hood. Och, now, I do like to see a countryman ; and although 25 194 TRAVELS III you are not just a countryman neither, yet you are the next door neighbour to it, and that comes to the same thing." So saying, h« set off to give the necessary orders about the dinner, and soon re> turned with the bottle, attended by the doctor of the cityy whom he introduced to mcas a countryman, " and as honest a fellow as ever crossed the great sea." "While we were regaling ourselves, the doctor was seized with an ague fit. " Och, now, doctor," says the landlord, " what's that for? you should leave the like o' that to me, who am a trained hand at it; it's I'that can rap it away to some purpose when I begin." And he soon did begin to rap it away. He was seized with a violent fit. I felt for them at first ; but when I observed their wo-bcgone countenances and odd gestures, I could not help comparing them, in my imagination, to Shakspeare's admirable simile of " Patience on a monument, smiling at grief," and was obliged to burst out into a loud laugh. The landlord, forgetting his ague fit, joined mc. "B; my shoul," says he, "you're a pure one. I believe, now, if you were to be here beside mc, with that merry face of your own, you would do me more good than the doctor, with all his medicines. Doctor, why don't you shove that rascally ague about its business, and join me and the gentleman in the laugh ?" The doctor smiled, which was all the length he could go ; however, they soon got clear of their shake, and we sat down together to dinner. " Aye, this it something like civilization," says I, putting my fork into the salt beef. " Now, would you have expeeted that I could have mustered you up a little bit of stuff like that ?" said the landlord. " Now ate {iwny heartily, and make yourself at home, and here's some pratees I'or you, and some sweet pratees, and there's some beans and tur- nips ; take some o' that now, and some corn>bread, and some o' these calces that was baked for you by the old woman, and ate heartily, and make your dinner, dear, for you see we don't want good fare, thoiigu we have got into a queer out o* th' world looking place." The ofiicious kindness and good humour of this agreeable Irish- man beguiled the time, and reconciled mc to a detention of two days at this place, which would otherwise have been almost intolerable; for there was not a single external object to gratify the senses, the glorious efiulgence of a bright sun excepted. The weather was clear and beautiful. , ' Wednesday, 15th. The Georgetown stage arrived, and the o- ther mail from the northward ; so we got relieved from our confine- SOUTH CAROLIKA. 195 ment ot 5 o'clock ; and, bidding adieu to the agreeable Irishman and his family, we set out in the stage. The country continued, as before, flat and sandy, six miles, to Black river, which we passed by a wooden bridge. This bridge had been broken, which was the reason of the detention of the stage, and, though now repaired a little, it was still in a very shattered state. Black river rises near Camden, and running a south-east course, falls into the great Pedee, a little above Georgetown. The road continued pretty good, but the bridges were in very bad order, and we passed many of them ; for the country is here intersected with creeks in all directions. We reached Georgetown, 20 miles from Willton, at 8 o'clock in the evening. Here I was agreeably surprised to find a young gentleman who had been a considerable time clerk in the same house with me in Glasgow. We were mutually gratified at this meeting ; the more 60 when we learned that we should travel together to Charleston. Georgetown is situated at the confluence of Pedee and Black rivers, 12 miles from the sea, and contains about 2000 inhabitants. It is the only sea-port in South Carolina, except Charleston, and has a considerable trade, particularly in rice, of which it is said that the lands in its neighbourhood produce 30,000 tierces annually. The houses are mostly built of wood, and are but indifferent. The principal public buildings are a court-house, jail, an episcopal church, a presbyterian church, one for baptists, one for method- ists, and a flourishing academy. The situation is unhealthy in the fall,, but the winters are mild and pleasant. Thursday, 16th, we left Georgetown at 3 o'clock in the morn- ing, and travelled through a level, sandy soil, about 13 miles, when we passed the north branch of the Santee. From thence there is a very muddy swamp, through which there is a causeway. But causeways here are entirely different ft om what they are in Britain. I naturally expected to find a pavement of stones, when the term was made use of; instead of which, I found them to con- sist of pieces of wood laid across the road, with a little space be- tween them, which is filled up with earth and brush-wood ; but this soon wears away, when the road becomes exceedingly rough. Over this we had to travel, Jolt, jolt, jolt, jolt, for two miles, when we passed the south branch of the Santee, aqd had a good leyul road. 196 TRAVELS IN Santee is the largest river in South Carolina, and is formed In two very large streams, the Congeree and Wateree, in the interior of the country. Thence running upwards of 100 miles, in an east* south-east direction, it divides about 5 miles above where wc crosg> ed it, and falls into the Atlantic Ocean by two channels not far apart. The Wateree rises at the foot of the mountains in North Carolina, where it is denominated the Catawba, and, pursuing a south-east course, is joined by many tributary streams, and fornib a junction with the Congeree, upwards of 200 miles from its source. The Congeree rises also in North Carolina, within a few miles of the Catawba, and pursues a south-east course about 70 miles, when it crosses the state line, and runs due south about 50 niib; it then runs south-east about 130 miles, and forms the junction aforesaid. In its passage through South Carolina, it receives a great many tributary streams, some of which are large rivers, par. ticularly the Tyger, Enneree, and Reedy rivers. Thirty miles from Georgetown, we stopped for dinner, where we had a view of the Atlantic Ocean ; and this was several times repeated in our journey onward. There was no other variety, for the country is one continued sand flat, with drifting sand and pine trees. But the weather was delightful. We reached Cliarlestoi) at 6 o'clock in the evening. CHAPTER XL. Charleston, As it was of importance to make some arrangements at Charles- tpn, I wrote to Savannah, and in the interim had a few days to spend with my friends. On the evening of the 20th of October, I was invited by a friend to taJce a ride to the west end of the town. As we returned, a gentleman on horseback came up with us, whom my friend fa- miliarly accosted by the appellation of Doctor, and introduced me as a stranger, recently from Britain. The doctor immediately en- tered into conversation on the affairs of that country. " I'm afraid," says he, " it's all over with that empire." " How so ?" ask- ed I. " Why," says he, " it appears to me, that the present minis- try will ruin the country." ** Why, now," said I, ** it appears to SOUTH CAROLINA. 197 me, on the other hand, that they arc making cfTorts to save it ; at least, I think they have taken very important steps with that vicir, since they have been in power." He replied, very dojj;mati- cally, that I did not seem to understand it; — the men were ruining the country; he was sure of it; he saw it very clearly. He was 21 jolly, good-looking man, with a drab coat, and a white hat; nnd I supposed him to be a doctor of medicine, and an American. But I was surprised at his violence, and his animosity to the whig party ; for it was generally understood that they were much more favourably disposed towards America than their predecessors. Wiicn he had expressed his sentiments, I adverted to t7iat favour- able circumstance, and stated, that having been very lately in the country, I had paid a good deal of attention to public affairs, and was pretty well acquainted with the policy of the ministry ; so that I ought to understand the subject at least as well as those who lived 3000 miles distant ; and if he would give me leave, I would state a few particulars, which he would find to be highly in favour of the present administration. " You are entirely mistaken," said he; " people who live here can form a much better judgment on the conduct of the British government than those who are on the spot. But what d'ye propose to tell me ? can you mention a single instance in which they departed from the policy of Mr, Pitt ? Caij you mention one ? I defy you to mention one." I instanced the attempt to give peace to their country ; to restore religious freedom to the Roman catholics ; to conciliate foreign powers ; but, above all, to put an end to the traffic in human Jlesh, He passed over all these circumstances except the last, and, fixing on it, " But Mr. Pitt," says he, " advocated the abolition as well a^ Fox." " He did so," said I, " but in a very different manner, and with a very dif- ferent effect." " And I think the worse of him for so doing," said he; " there, I think, he was an enemy to his country 1" " I un- derstood," said I, «' that you approved of the measures of Mr. Pitt." " And so I did." « Well, then, in supporting the abolition, was he an enemy to his country /"" « No," said he, " I don't think so; fori believe he was not sincere." " Not sincere!" said I. " Sir, you place Mr. Pitt's memory in a very extraordinary point of view. If he was not sincere, he was a consummate hypocrite. If he was sincere, then, according to your opinion, he was an ene- my to his country." — « Ay, but there may be cases of expediency," said he. « Case* of expediency !" said I. «* Sir, truth is sipaple 198 TK4VELS IN and honourable, and requirefi no expedients. Fnlcehood is hut and detestable, and all the expedients in the world will not dii. guise it. — Besides, to apply cases of expediency to such a motnen* tous concern as the slave trade, is monstrous. — The laws of moralitv require that we should do to our neighbours as we would be done by ; humanity enforces it — Christianity" 1 was going to say en- joins it ; but our roads lay different, and we parted. " You should not have been so severe upon the doctor," observed my friend. *< who is he?" said I. — 1 was astonished, and the reader will be astonished, to learn, that this approver of expedients — this sup- porter of the measures of Mr. Pitt — this advocate of the slave trade, was a minister of the gospel of Christ I and was sent out to Charleston on the recommendation of the late Dr. Blair of Edin- burgh. I was variously employed in Charleston until the 21st, by which time I had got all my arrangements completed, when, having no letter from Savannah, I became exceedingly impatient to be gone. I accordingly took my passage by the mail stage, and, as it wai to start at three o'clock in the morning, I went to sleep in the stage-house. I was seized with a slight fever during the night, and when the departure of the stage was announced, I found it was out of my power to proceed. I got very anxious, and sent for a doctor, nrho prescribed some medicine, and I believe gave me a very ini' proper dose, to which, principally, I attribute a severe stomach complaint with which I was afterwards afflicted. In this situation I was greatly assisted by a young Irishman, who came to lodge at the same house. He examined into my ftitu* ation, told roe he had been served in the same way at New Or- leans, and prescribed some medicine to counteract the effect of the other, which was successful, and in all probability saved my life. During my confinement there was a remarkable change of wea- ther ; the thermometer fell suddenly from 75** to 48". I was told that such changes were very common there, in the spring and fall Charleston is elegantly situated on a point of land at the confluence of Cooper and Ashley rivers, which form the harbour, one of the most convenient in the United States. The ground on which the city is built is low, but it is open to the sea breeze, and is, upon the whole, one of the most eligible situations in the low country. The plan of the city is regular, the streets crossing SOUTH CAROLINA. |99 each other at right angles ; but many of them aro too narrow. The houses are partly built of brick, and partly of woocl ; and many of them arc elegant. They arc about 5000 in number, anil the city contains about 24-,000 inhabitants, of whom nearly one half arc slaves. The public buildings arc a court-house, exchange, college, armoury, three banks, 18 places of public worship, alms- bouse, orphans-house; &c. The markets arc kept in pretty good order, but provisions are dear, and are not so good as in the northern cities. There arc few manufactures at Chorleston, but there is a very active commerce, particularly in the winter sea* ton ; and vast quantities of shipping arc constantly arriving and departing, which keeps the city very lively. The principal fo- reign trade is to Europe and the West Indies ; of which Britain occupies a large share, and a considerable portion is appropriated to Glasgow. The great articles for export arc cotton and rice, particularly the former ; and the imports consist of East and West India goods, groceries, and British manufactures. Besides this, there is a very extensive trade to the northern states, in which many regular packets arc cmployeii. The citizens arc es* teemed hospitable and polite, of which I found many instances. They are mostly all dressed in British manufactures, so that the cultivation of this trade is an object of considerable importance to that country. A more than ordinary proportion of the popula- tion of Charleston is blacks, occasioned by the circumstance of its being the only port in the United States in which they can be imported; but it is supposed this branch will not long continue^ —From the light of reason, of philosophy, and of religion, that is every where shining around us, may we not hope that the time will soon arrive when man will no more deal deceitfully with his fellow, but justice, and righteousness, and mercy, will •xtend over all the earth ? ii CHAPTER XLI. 4'$ .;i . Cambahee river rises near Edgefield court-house, and running n south-cast direction, upwards of 130 miles, falls into St. Helena Sound. Coosaw river rises in Orangeburg district, and running a south-east course, through Black swamp, falls into Broad river, which last is an arm of the sea, in some places 7 or 8 miles broad, and forms, at Baufoit, one of the finest harbours in the United States. Beaufort and St. Helena Islands are formed by the con- fluence of the.«e rivers and inlets; and there is a spacious entrance by Port liepublican, formerly termed Port Royal. SOUTH CAROLINA. %0\ Tlie principal mincrftl is iron, which, indeed, is found in great plenty in all the state* ; and gold, silver, and cop|>cr ores have also been found here. Marbl« has been tound in some few places, and also black lead. Thcic ^re severnl t all built of wood, and painted grey and yellow ; and, although there are very few of them more than two stories high, they have a very respectable appearance. The inhabitants of the upper country, who do not approve of sending their provisions to Charleston, stop at Columbia, where they dispose them at several respectable shops established in the town. The above account is given by Michaux, who travelled throng!) this phice in 1803 ; and a continuation of the extract presents a picture of the country between Columbia and Charleston* SOUTH CAROLINA^ 90S << Columbia is aboul 120 miles from Charleston. For the whole of this space, particularly from Orangeburg, composed of 20 houses, the road crosses an even country, sandy and dry during the sum- mer; whilst in the autumn and winter it is so covered with water in several places, for the space of eight or ten miles, that the horses are up to their middles. Every two or three miles we met with a miserable log-house upon the road, surrounded with little fields of Indian corn, the slender stalks of which are very seldom more than five or six feet high, and which, from the second harvest, do not yield more than four or five bushels an acre. In the mean time, notwithstanding its sterility, this land is sold at the rate of two dollars per acre." Beaufort contains about 1 OOP inhabitants; and there are several smaller towns containing from 100 to 500. As there is a material difference in the soil and climate of the upper and lower country, so is there in the produce. The produce in the lower country is mostly cotton and rice, with articles neces- sary for the subsistence of the negroes, particularly Indian corn. The sea islands, and low lands along the coast, produce cotton of the long staple: in the interior it is principally of the short staple. Rice plantations are established in the great swamps, and the har- vests are abundant. Throughout the whole of this district the agri- cultural labours are performed by negro slaves. In the upper coun- try the produce is more diversified. They raise no rice ; but they produce cotton of the short staple in very considerable quantities; and, liesides Indian coin, they raise wheat, rye, oats, and barley. A great part of the agricultural labour here is performed by the white people ; and so great is the diiference, in this respect, from the low country, that we may reckon there are two white persons to one black ; whereas, in the other there are two blacks to one wliitc person. The manufactures of this state are mostly of the domestic kind, for family use, and tliis kind of industry is increasing ; but such is the quantity of produce suitable for foreign markets, that the state carries on a very active foreign commerce, of which a great propor- tion is to Britain. The articles exported are chiefly cotton, rice, and tobacco. The imports consist of British manufactures, wines, and groceries. The exports in 1 805, amounted to 9,0G0,625 dollars, of which 5,957,646 dollars was domestic produce; and probably three millions more are exported through the medium of the north- ern ports. , : ; . - . ' ... ,-> f04l TRATKLS IN The operation of slavery to so great an extent produces, of course, (he same effects here as in other places ; but the people have consi- derably improved in education and morals since the revolution. It was customary for a long period for the more wealthy planters to send their sons to Europe for education ; and even now they fre- quently send them to the northern states ; but the practice is grar dually declining, and the desire has become general to have res. pectable seminaries in the state. A college has been founded, and very respectably endowed, at Columbia ; and there are several other colleges and academies throughout the state. The towns are pret- ty well supplied with common schools ; but they are defective in the country ; and this branch of education, being the basis of the moral- ity of the state, deserves the early attention of the legislature. The civil government is, like that of the other states, legislative, executive, and judiciary. The legislative power is vested in a general assembly, consisting of a senate and house of representatives. The senators are chosen for four years, and one half vacate their seats e^ very two years ; they must be thirty-five years of age, and possessed of a freehold estate of the value of 300 pounds sterling, clear of debt ; and the electors must be possessed of fifly acres of land, or a town lot, Oi* have paid a tax of three shillings sterling. The repre< sentatives n^ust be twenty-one years of age, and be possessed of a freehold esti.te of 150 pounds, clear of debt; and the electors must have the same qualifications as for senators. The executive government is vested in a governor, chosen for two years, by the legislature ; and the qualifications to fill that office are, that he be thirty years of age, and be possessed of 1500 poonds sterling. The judges of the superior courts, commissioners of the treasury, secretary of state, and surveyor-general, are all elected by the legislature. ■ ■(■, ■ y CHAPTER XLII. Charleston, — Savannah river, — Savannah, S ATURDAY, October 25th. Having been eight days in Charles- ton, without hearing from Savannah, I got much alarmed for my friend, and resolved to depart forthwith, notwithst.tDding I was in M very poor state of health. I accordingly engaged a passage in CBOROIA. 105 the Deliglit, captain Cooper, and went on board in the afternoon. We set sail at 5 o'clock. It was a fine clear evening ; but I was gick and could not enjoy the breeze nor the scenery. The wind was favourable, and before midnight we were in sight of Tybce light- house. I went to bed, but slept little ; and when I arose in the mornin" I found we were sailing up Savannah rivea* with a fair wind, which continuetl till we reached the city. As we were drawing to- wards the wharf, a gentleman of my acquaintance passed us in a Iwat; and so great was my anxiety that I could hardly put the ge- neral question : " How are you all in Savannah ?" The answer was such as I dreaded : " Your friend is not very well." I was dreadfully agitated, and could hardly pronounce the sentence: " He's not dangerously ill, I hope." " He's pretty bad," was the reply. It went to my heart. The power of vision and of hearing forsook me; my limbs tottered under me; I lost all sense of recollection, and in this state was conveyed to the wharf; but I soon recovered from my reverie. The powers of my mind rallied their force, and the passion of grief took the place of lethargy. I was almost choak- ed with the violence of my passion, and could hardly support my- self to the top of the bluff, when I was accosted by a friend, who told me my presence was very much wanted in Savannah. This gave my mind a fresh direction. I armed myself with resolution, *' Tliat column of true majesty in man ;" and determining to brave all difficulty and all danger, I made the hest of my way to the house. 1 found my friend in the agonies of death. I spoke to him ; but he underssood me not. I looked iu his face ; but, oh, how altered ! His eyes were sunk in his head, and his colour was quite yellow. I seized his hand, and it was quite emaciated. The hand of death pressed heavy upon him, and all I could now hope for was to make myself understood in taking a sor- rowful farewell. I mentioned my name, on which he raised his eyes; he looked wistfully in my face ; he pressed my hand with fervour, saying faintly, '* Is it you ?" and fell back in his bed, and soon after expired. Thus I lost an esteemed friend, and the business lost the serviceir of a valuable young man, on whom I had placed great reliance. His conduct during the whole of our short connexion was such as to give me every satisfaction, and to secure my utmost confidence. His loss was painful, as a friend — as an assistant, irretrievable. S05 TRAVELS IN In the mean time, the whole of the business devolved upon rat and such was the mass of matter through which I had to labour, that I hardly ever enjoyed an hour of recreation or repose for the space of two months ; and my health was re-established very slowly. In other respects matters were favourable. By dint of vigoroui exertions I got the whole of my business arranged to my wish ; and my accounts from Britain, both of a public and private nature, were flittering. , ;, , .., The non-intercourse act was suspended, in consequence of which a quantity of our goods, that were seized under its operation, were given up free of expense. Mr. Fox was dead ; but his friends remained in the cabinet ; and every thing seemed to promise a continuance of a good understand- ing between the two countries, on which my whole fortune and fu- ture prospects depended. My fi^elings were highly gratified by an act of the American go vernment, abolishing for ever the slave trade ; and it appeared that a similar measure would be adopted in Britain. I found the inhabitants of Savannah hospitable and friendly ; and was much pleased with the attention of those of them with whom I had occasion to associate. Under all these circumstances, it became a question whether I would form a new connexion, to supply the place of my friend, and go on with the business, or whether I would wind it up. After much deliberation it was determined to carry it on. A new connex* ion was formed, and I prosecuted the various arrangements con* nected with it with all the vigour in my power. Having all these completed, I prepared to leave the United Stales for Europe ; but before I embark I shall take a general view of the itate of Georgia. ,, CHAPTER XLIIl. , . Georgia Is situated between north latitude 30* 30' and 35°, and west lon- gitude 3° 50' and 9" 5'. Its extreme length from north to south is 305 miles, and its extreme breadth 259. Its area is about 60,000 square miles, or 38,400,000 acres. , This state, like the Carolinas, is naturally divided into two dis- tricts, the upper and the lower ; of which the boundary is remark- GEORGIA. SOT ably well defined. Augusta is on this line, on the Savannah river, from whence it passes to the westward by Louisville, and, at the ex- tremity of the state, passes the Flint river, about the latitude of SS®. The respective portions are so much assimilated to South Cai'olina, that it is unnecessary to describe them here. Tlie state has a sea coi'st of 100 miles, which is indented with bays and inlets, and stud- ded with islands, well known by the name of Sea Islands. In the southern part there is a portion of Eokefanoke swamp, one of the most remarkable in the world. To the north -west are the Allega- ny mountains, which terminate in this state. . The state is remarkably well, supplied with rivers and small streams. The Savannah river has been already described. The Ogeeche river rises a little above Greensburgh, 200 miles from Sa- vannah, and pursuing a south east course falls into the Atlantic^ 25 miles south of Savannah. The Altamaha is composed of a number of branches, of which the largest is the Oconee. It rises near the mountains, about 300 miles from Savannah, and running a south-south -east course, is I joined by the Appalachy, and thence continues its course, augment- ed by a great number of tributary streams, till it forms a junction with the Oakmulgee, 100 miles from the ocean : from thence it runs an east-south-east couse, and falls into the Atlantic below Darien, to which it is navigable for large vessels. The Oakmulgee is a large river rising near the Appalachy, from whence, to its confluence with the Oconee, it runs upwards of 200 miles. The Little Ogeeche is a considerable river, and falls into the Altamaha, from the northward, after this junction. The Chatahouchy is a very large river, and forms the western boundary of Georgia from the Florida line, 125 miles up the coun- try. It rises at the ibot of the mountains, near the head of Savan- nah river, and runs south-westwardly, above 200 miles, to where it forms the state line. From thence it pursues a course a littli: east of south, to Florida, where it forms a junction with Flint river, and assumes the name of Apalachicola. From thence it I runs a south by east course, 80 miles, to the gull' of Mexico, which it enters by several mouths. . • Flint river is about 300 yards broad, and 12 or IS feet deep' It rises near the Oakmulgee river, and runs, with a clear gentle I current, a course to the west of south, upwards of 200 miles. St. Mary's river rises in Eokefanoke swamp, and running about 208 GEonoiA. 100 miles by a very crooked course, but cast upon the whole, forms the boundary between the United States and East Florida, during its whole passage, and falls into the sea at St. Mary's, where it forms a good harbour. The soil and climate are both assimilated to South Carolint, There is a great proportion of good land in upper Georgia, and the sea-islands are numerous and rich. — Lower Georgia, being farther to the south, is a little warmer than South Carolina. The first settlement of Georgia was made in 1 732, under the direction of a society of gentlemen, who acted as trustees; and general Oglethorpe landed at Savannah with 113 settlers. la ITS*, they were joined by 130 highlanders from Scotland, and 170 Germans. Georgia suffered severely in the struggle for inde- pendence, and was frequently the seat of war. The state consti* tution was adopted in 1 780. Georgia now sends two senators and four representatives to congress. The state is divided into 24 counties, and these compose two judiciary districts. The population, by the census of 1 800, was 102,987 free persons, and 59,697 slaves, making a total of 162,68i, I being somewhat more than 3 to the square mile. • r t ' There arc but few towns in Georgia. Savannah and Augusta have been noticed. The others are mostly situated on the waters. Besides Savannah and Augusta, there is, on the Savannah river, a little town called Petersburg ; and in the interior, between tlie Savannah and Ogeeche, is Washington, Both these are thriving places. On the great Ogeeche, there are, besides Louisville, (^ar/aand Gi'emshurg. . .' ' '. > • j On the Altamaha and its waters, Dai ien^ a new seaport, Mil- LEDGEViLLE, the new Seat of government, and Athens^, the seat of | a college. On St. Mary's river is the town of St. Mari/s, at the southern ] extremity of the state. The agriculture and produce of the st^ite are neaily similar wl those of South Carolina. A great degree of attention has been paid, in Georgia, to edu- cation ; and very considerable funds have been ai>propriated to the | support of it. The college at Athens is amply endowed, and pro vision is made for establishing and keeping up an academy in ere^ > '--, ~-i,'^\ ,::'' .':-■• yt^^^-iiitW '*'■' . -*.. -. ■'^-'' .•■•■-■ GIOBGIA. 209 coanty in the state. In the towns, there Are very good common ichools ; but the state is yet defective as to the establishment of these most useful seminaries thronghout the country. It should be mentioned, however, that in this, and all the southern states, the population is too thin to admit of the establishment of schools upon the plan of the townships of the northern states, or the parishes in Scotland. By looking at the census, it will be seen, that in this state, for example, a township of six miles square, or 36 square miles, only contains about 112 persons; from which if we deduct the proportion of black people, it leaves only 75 ; and this number would not be sufficient to support a school. On the other hand, there is much waste land, and those districts that are settled up, often contain much more than this proportion ; sometimes, indeed, a sufficient number for the purpose mentioned. "Whenever that is the case, a school should be established. Before taking leave of this subject, I may notice, that the best plan of establishing country schools, probably, is to appropriate a public fund equal to one-half of what may be considered a reason- able salary to the teacher, and let him depend on his class, for the other halK This appears to be a happy inedium between the plan of allowing the teacher to depend wholly on his class, and that of pro- viding a public fund for the whole of the salary. In the one case, the teacher is not sufficiently independent ; in the other, education, by being made too cheap, is not sufficiently prized. In the way point- ed out, the independence of the teacher is in part secured, and the dependence on a contingency for the remainder has a tendency to stimulate both teacher and pupils to exertion. In all cases, provision should be made, that the children of the poor may be taught gratis. Good education is a blessing of ines- timable value to a community, and should be within the reach of every member. The constitution declares, that " arts and sciences shall be pro- moted, in one or more seminaries of learning ; and the legislature shallgive such further donations and privileges to those already estab- lished, as may be necessary to secure the objects of their institution." On the subject of religion, it is declared, that " no person with- in the state shall, upon any pretence, be deprived of the inesti- mable privilege of worshipping God in a manner agreeable to his own conscience, nor be compelled to attend any place of worship, contrary to his own faith and judgment; nor shall he ever be 210 TRAVILS ON obliged to pay tythes, taxes, or any other ratci, for the building or repairing any place of worship, or for the maintenance of any minister or ministry, contraiy to what he believes to be right, or hath enpragcd to do. No religious society shall ever be established in this state in preference to any other : nor shall any person be denied the enjoyment of any civil right, merely on account of re- ligious principles." i ..-. ■ . . The civil government is vested in an assembly, consisting of » senate and house of representatives, a governor, and a judiciary. The assembly are elected annually, and all free white persons, who are of age, and who have paid taxes, have a vote. The governor is appointed for two years, by the legislature. The judges are elected by the legislature for three years. ' CHAPTER XLIV. -i '* ? K Savannah f — Ships of war, — Liverpool, Sunday, 12th April, I8O7. The period for my leaving Sa- vannah being arrived, I engaged a passage by the Eliza, Captain Starks, and this morning went on board at Five Fathom Hole, at nine o'clock. The other passengers were two gentlemen, na- tives of Scotland, settled as merchants in Savannah : one gentl^ man, a native of Scotland, who had been resident in Savannah, and was proceeding to Liveipool to settle there ; an English gen- tleman, settled as a merchant in the upper country ; and a young gentleman from South Carolina, who was going over to get his education in England. Every thing being prepared, the ship weighed, and proceeded down the river with a fair but light breeze ; but on reaching Four Mile Pointy a few miles below, the wind veered about to the south- cast, and we were obliged to come to anchor, where we lay the remaining part of the day, and all the next night, tortured by musquctoes* Monday, 13tli. 'the wind having come round to the north- west, and blowing a fine breeze, we weighed anchor at 10 o'clocic, and glided down the river very swiftly. At half past eleven we were up with the light-house, and at twelve we passed the bar, and tlicharged the pilot. THE 4TLANT1C OCEAN.' 211 We had now a delightful breeze ; and the Eliza, being one of the fastest sailing ships in America, and well trimmed, darted through the water with great rapidity. And Captain Starks, the commander, did her every justice ; to use his own phrase, he did cracli on the muslin. We seldom made less than ] 50 miles a (lay, and one day we had the remarkable run of 253 miles. In ten days we were past the banks of Newfoundland, after which we had a series of north-east winds, which kept us too much to the southward, but, as the Eliza sailed remarkably well upon the wind, we still made pretty good progress. On the 27th of April, we discovered a vessel to windward bear- ing right down upon us, under French colours. On getting suf- ficiently near, she fired a gun ahead, and we hove to, not a little apprehensive of the result. On coming along side, the captain hailed us in broken English, and said lie would send a boat a- board pour chearche our papiercs. A boat was accordingly dis- patched, and the lieutenant, a young Scotsman, jumping aboard, told us that the vessel was the Rattler sloop of war, captain Augu- 2iez, and that they used the French flag and language for a decoy. We ware delighted with this account, treated the ofHcer with u glass of our best Madeira ; and he, having examined our papers and found every thing correct, told us we might make sail as soon as we observed the signal from the vessel ; so saying, he jumped into the boat. On reaching the ship, he again returned with the captain's compliments, who, having his lady and two children aboard, requested that we would sell them some sweet flour and biscuit. We immediately made up an assortment of these articles, and some others, which the captain sent with a return of his com- pliments; and receiving the signal, we made sail, and parted with mutual ^ood wishes. The northerly winds still continued, and the weather was very wet and cold ; but we made pretty good progress, and, by the 4th of May, we were within a few days* sail of Cape Clear, when we were brought to and boarded by the Dryade frigate, of 44- guns and 250 men, captain Drummond commander. The board- ing officer here was also a Scotsman, and, like the other, behaved with great politeness. He told us they had been one of the convoy to the West In- dia fleet, as far as the latitude of 30 ; that they had been out five weeks, and were to cruize between the Channel and W^estern IHAVfU eN sit InlAtids two months. He reported their longitude to be 22o ,sv by the chronometer. Having pot a quantity of letters on boani for England, he told us we might set sail as soon as they madt the signal. As we were now drawing near our native shores, and antici> pating a happy meeting "with our friends, we were all in good spirits, and hod various theatrical representations in the style of the grand sultan and his faithful slave Shacabac, which great* ly astonished and amused the ship's company. We had also a series of moral regulations, which laid a pretty severe penalty on swearing. I was appointed the executor of this branch oi* the law ; but I sometimes found a difficulty in putting it into execu- tion, particularly with our Liverpool merchant, who, when we reached the Channel, told us flatly, that, being now in the Brit- ish king's dominions, he would swear if we were all d — d on't. As the gentleman was under the influence of the crown, we were e'en obliged to submit to royal authority, and the fines were thenceforth remitted. We passed Cape Clear on the 10th, and had a fine view of tiie Irish coast, from the cape to the Old Head of Kinsale. As we glided along with a fair wind, vi little pilot boat came off from the land to meet us, and try to persuade us, no doubt, that there would be a gfeat big storm, and that we must take a pilot and run in for the coast. But the Eliza outsailed him, and he fell a little astern. He had all his canvass hoisted to the breeze, but without effect. " By J s, you sail d d sharp, captwn !" said he. " Pretty well," said the captain. " Now, if you would only back your mizen-sail a bit, I would come aboard and tell you all about the land." " Thank you, thank you," said the captaiu, *' but I happen to know something about it already." " Then you may go to the mischief with yourself," exclaimed Paddy; *< you'll be catched in a great big storm to-night, and the d— 1 make matter." So saying, he put about and stood toward the coast. On the 1 1 th we passed the Cove of Cork, which presents from sea a most picturesque view. Oh the 12th, we passed the curious insulated rock, well known to seamen by the name of Tiiscat- Kext morning we were round Skerries-light, when we were en- veloped in a fog so thick that we were obliged to lie to. Here we ouud the brig Lucy from Sayannah, in the same situation. She THE ATlANTIC OCKAN. t\$ faiul sailed fourtocn days before us, and was likely to get into port 8ome time after us. About 4 o'clock in the aflernoon, the fog cleared away, but the wind veered about, right ahead, and wc made little progreu. Next morning, howerer, we were on pilot ground, and soon dit- covered a boat, to which we made signal, which was answered bv putting one of her hands on board. Wc immediately flocked rouud the pilot to learn the news, but he could tell us nothing, except that there was a new election in Liverpool. He could assign no reason, but said it was thought Mr. Roscoe would not be member again : wc were lost in con- jecture. The head winds continued, ond we did not raoke the north-west buoy till the 14th, when we were obliged to come to anchor. During the night it blew a furious gale ; as wc were fast at an- chor, abreast of the " fast-anchored isle," we did not feel it much, but a pretty lively idea of it may be formed from the cap tola's account : he said " it was enough to blow the hair out of a fel- low's head." The gale continued all next day, and there was no possibility of getting on shore, though we were very anxious. At length, about mid-day, a pilot boat hove in sight, and we made signal for her. She came along side, and sent out her yawl, into which the passengers got with considerable difficulty, and such was the swell, that we were at one time in the most imminent dan- ger of being upset before we got on board the boat. After we did get on board, however, we were recompensed for the danger we had undergone. Wc got some fine beef and potatoes, and a file of newspapers ; and here I made the discovery that a great political change had taken place in Britain, which augured most important consequences to the world; and particularly to that portion of it we had lately left — America. At one o'clock, we landed at Hoyle-lake, where, thanking Gt>d for our safety, and kissing our parent earth, we pursued our way to a tavern in the neighbourhood. Having, at the tavern, procured saddle horses, and a guide to accompany us, we set out for Live^ol, distant about seven miles, and made a pretty respectable cavalcade. In our way we enjoy- ed the land scenery as much as the blustering weather would aU low us. When we were about half way, I rode towards t^ie guide, and asked how fiir we were from Liverpool. ** Indeed I 214 TRAVKLt IN doan't know," sAid he. " Oh," said I, " I presume you ure t stranger here as well as myself." " Anan!" said he. " Anon !" r. peuted I, with surprise, " why, I suppose j-ou have never travel. led this road before." " O yeaz, zur, an hundred tymes." "^Vhat, and don't know the distance we have yet to go !" " No 1 doan't." "Nor the distance we have come?" "No, nor that neitlier." *' Nor the wliole distance?" " Noa ; I know how to get thear, and I know how to get back agean, and that's all I know about the meater." Here is a pretty specimen of intelligence, thinks I to myself. " Only think of that, master Brook !" and contrast it with the keen inquisitive disposition and shrewd answers of a Ncw-Kng> land man. We reached the ferry about 4 o'clock, and immediately crossed over to Liverpool, where we agreed to rendezvous at the Kin^i's Arms tavern ; and constituting the Liverpool merchant our stew- ard, to bespeak a dinner, we took each our i>everal way^ as busi- ness or friendship directed. trade' new ni ing 11 II ni/ed f vour ol ntid III ^ Bonapn (]ucr all critnitia rcasuii tliougiit CHAPTER XLV. Liverpooolf — Electioriy — Chairing the members. After parting with the company, I went immediately to the cofiee-bouse, to examine into the causes of the change of councils; and to form a judgment, if possible, what effect tlie measure would have upon the American trade. I took a file of the Lon« don Courier on the one hand, and of the Morning Chronicle on the other, and traced the whole proceedings, step by step, till I came to lord Grenville's explanation in the house of lords, and that of Mr. Grey in the commons. I saw that bigotry, prejudice, illiberality, and corruption, had prevailed over virtue, patriotism, and integrity. I exclaimed, woe is my country ! and, with a hea- vy heart, went to join my companions at the dinner table. The next object of inquiry, and in which I was most deeply interested, was the probable effect that this change would have upon the American relations; and here again my anticipations were far from being favourable. I observed that one part of the play upon the passions of the English nation, and a very success- - ful one, was to hold out the idea of a " universal monopoly of ENGLAND. !ei5 trudo." 1 ''C doctrine was openly und loudly promulgated by the new miiu»try and their pnrtisans, that there was no use in hav- ing a naval force created at such an exprnec, nnleas it was 8o orga- ni/ecl and conducted a » to controul the trade ofthe world in fa- vour of Iritain. The sea ought of right to he British property, and not a vessel should sail the ocean but by Briti^th permission. Bonaparte had conquered all the land, and Britain should con- (lucr all the sea; and the late administration were charged with a criminal neglect of duly in not enforcing tliese principles. 1 saw reason to dread that they would be enforced now. I knew, or tiiou'^lit I knew, that America would not submit to them ; and hence I feared a rupture. 1 observed, however, that Mr. Erskinc was to be continued as ambassador, and, reflectmg on the nature ofthe American government, I considered that there would be no rupture on their part before they had tried ncgociation to the utmost. I therefore judged it expedient, under all circumstances, to go on with my business, and to take prompt measures to make my shipment accordingly. During the few days I stopped in Liverpool, I was ardently en« I gaged in making commercial arrangements, and had time for few remarks that would be interesting to the general reader; I shall therefore only notice two or three circumstances, calculated to show |thetemperof the times, • We were informed that tliere had been an election in Liverpool I two days before we arrived. The tory candidates were generals I Tarleton and Gascoyne ; the whig candidate, Mr. Roscoe. Tory principles were tremendously triumphant — so, much so that Mr. I Roscoe durst not even appear at the hustings ; and his friend, colo- nel Taylor, who was proceeding there in his behalf, was intercepted |by aband of armed men, and had his horse killed under him. The tavern where we lodged was mostly frequented by travellers Ion business, and the evenings were generally devoted to long and Ifcrvent discussions, sometimes animated debates. As the company jwere collected from all quarters of the island, we had a good oppor- [tuuity of learning the public sentiment in general ; and it appeared I to me to be in favour ofthe new ministry, by a vast majority of the jleading men in the country. During my ttay in Liverpool, " the chairing of the members," las it is called, took place. It was conducted in this way : Chairs, |«f elegant workmanship, were provided, richly ornamented with 216 TR&VEI^ IN I? 4 M •ilks and dr^ry, principally of the colour of the members' liren-; they had cushions for seats, and two sides supported a pavilion roof on each : they were borne on appropriate carriffgcs, hsring two poles, and the candidates were carried on them by a number of men, from the place of election through those parts of the town that fancy or vanity directed. In this procession General Tarleton took the lead. Hi» liTen was green, the other's blue. Tliey were both richly dressed in re« gimentals. They stood up uncovered in the chairs, and proceeded ftlowly along, looking and bowing in all directions to the populac% who in return waved streamers of green and blue ribbons from the windows. Round each chair were a number of persons cairj- ing poles with boards nailed to the tops of them, and labels pasted on the boards. These also deserve notice. " No popery." " Church and king." " Long live the king." " No dictating to the royjl conscience." " If I forsake my king, may God forsake me ;" and ft hundred other sayings, the presumed sentiments of the members, were thus exhibited to the multitude ; who, in return, testified their loyalty in repeated claps and huzzas, accompanied by flourishes of blue and green ribbons. Even the members of the frail sisterhood, with which the town swarms, were flourishing away in green and blue, in all directions, damning pink and Mr. Roscoe, and swear- ing to their loyalty and their devotion to the king and the two generals. In the afternoon I met with a friend in the street, and we adjourn- ed to a tavern to get some porter. Here we found a crowd of mot- ley politicians, with some of whom I entered into conversation; when I found, to my great astonishment, that the privilege of a freeman in Liverpool could only be obtained by seven years servitude to s fieeman ; and that such freemen only had a vote for members of parliament. Hence a great number of the most opulent and res- pectable merchants in this vci^ important seaport are totally exclud- ed from voting ; and the exercise of that privilege is confined to a I class of men, many of whom arc very ill calculated for exercising its important functions. Of this we had some very decisive proof be- fore I left; the house, particularly from one man, who, while heplunl- ed himself upon his right, as he termed it, and exhibited, with bo | umall exultation, his bit of green ribbon, which he called his liverr, {flowed by his conversation that right and wrong Were subjects on which he was very incompetent to form an opinion. I am nfnid that too many of the voters in Liverpool are of that description. ENGLAND. 217 The elective frauohise is a most sacred trust,and ought to be ex- ercised with great circumspection, inasmuch as it is the very safe- guard of tlie hberties of a nation. Hence, those entrusted with it khould be carefully informed of their duties as well as rights ; and hence the importance of diffusing knowledge among the mass of the people. They constitute the wealth and strength of a nation : they arc generally honest in intention ; but knowledge alone can regu- late their actions so as to produce a beneficial result in practice. Unfortunately, however, a strong prejudice eadsts among many who have received a liberal education themselves, against any plan hav- ing for its object the general diffusion of that inestimable blessing; and wc may, of course, expect that those who object to theif fellow men participating with them in knowledge^ will also object to their participating with them in power. In such a state of society, wher- ever power may partially extend to the moss of the people, as in the case before us, we may expect to see it abused. But in this enlight- ened period of the world, we may hope soon to see both knowledge and power generally diffused among mankind, and that a period of political jealousy and discord will be succeeded by a hap^y period of '< peace on earth and good will among men." i>'-r ...'!} .:i.i// CHAPTER XLVI. Liverpool, — Lancaster, — Carlisle, — Glasgow, . ' ill AY 1 9th. I set out for Glasgow, accompanied by one of our passengers, whose connexions lived in that city. The conveyance from hence to Carlisle was by what is called the heavy or long coach, and it took two days to perform the journey, 324 miles. We started at 8 or 9 o'clock in the morning, and passing through Qrmskirk and Preston, reached Lancaster, 55 miles from Liverpool, wiere we stopped for dinner. The weather was agreeable; the Qountry, in all that distance, is ^ell cultivated, exhibiting a veiy pretty appearance. Qrmskirk is a place of little consequence ; but Preston has a population of 14,000, and carries on manufactures, particularly in cotton, to a great extent. Lancaster is the county town, handsomely situated at the mouth of the river Lone, and contains about 8000 inhabitants. It has oon- N^erable commerce, but very little to America ; itt chief manu* •■' : '{* wt n 'J » *lcl TRAVELS IN facturei hcmjg sail-cloth, ftirniture, hardwaf^, Cfincllefi, &t. the duke 6f Bridgewatfer's canal runs near Larrcaster, and crosses the river by a Veiy sijacious aqueduct bridge, built of hewti stotie, whtA has a fine appearance when viewed from the road. After dinner, we continued our jonrncy 18 mile* to Kendal, vrtiere we stopped for the night. The country is pleasant all the way to Kendal ; and, mnntng through a hilly country, aifonls many iSrie views. ■ '^- - - Onfe of our passengors was a shrjitping-mctchant fhrni London, and Vie expressed his disapprobation of the Me ministry, in very severe terms, for not shutting up the carrymg trade of the Ameri- cans. My fellow-traveller and I ettdcavoured to reason with him, and to poirit "but the importance of the Amierican trade to Britain, and the injustice t^iat it would be to stop it : but this man of com- merce would listen to no reason, and would bend to no maxims of justice. " \Ve are able to carry on the whole trade of the world," said he, " and we should have it. Our ifleets are aW-powerfuI, and we should command it." He seemed to forget, that there arfe jd- ways two at a bargain-making ; and that no ndtion can carry on a foreign trade alone. ■ "' - - ;. — '•♦.i^*^ ----■• -i- Ke?idal is beautifully situated in a fine healthy country, and the women have cheeks like roses. It is a pretty large town, and has considerable manufactories of Cottoiis, 'Wobllens, stockings, hats, &c. ; some of which are calculated for the American trade. May 20th. We set o»t at 7 o'clock in the morning, and travelled through a roiigh, hilly country, called Sbap-Fells, 27 miles, to Penrith. The country is but thinly inhabited in this district, and the i nhabitants seem to be mostly employed in raisif^ sheep and geese. Penrith is a neat little place, containing about SOOO people. The cotintry to the eastward i» high and barren, but it is fertile to the vrestward, and abounds in thriA'ing farms. The eoimtry im- proves tbwnrds Carlisle, 18 mile» distant, rati nd which it is culti- vated like a garden. , .•f,.:.:ii};iij;irt, .. i.^v Having reached Carlisle ^liout 1 o'clock, wc proposed going o» to Glasgow by the London mail, expected in half an hour, and, in the mean time, we took a wtdk through the town. Carli:>le is prettily situated, and contains a population of 10,060. It is favourably situated for carrying on manufactures, which arc in an improved state, and consist of cottouHspuining and weaving; priming and dying j coarse linenscand Osnaburglis ; hats, hosiervi Icgthei'i ro^ieS) and sicveral kinds of woollens* Sioin^ of fhe i^rti^}^^ particularly printed calicoes, are in high repute. On the arrival of the mail stn^re, we found all the inside plac^ taken, and we had no alternative but to wait ano^hqr day, or take outside places. The iattcr was resolved oq ; and," having nippnted on the top, the coach drove on. We anticipated that av^ would suffer a little from the cold, albeit it was late in May» but we were sure that if all kept well, we could see our frienfis by 7 Q*clof)c in the morning. Ten miles from Carlisle, we passed through LongtO>vn, a sn^aU place on the confipQs of England ; ai^d a littl§ beyond ihi^ we crossed a little stream, and hailed '■"'■* "Old Scotia, our dear, our native soil.** ■ Here we had a very extensive view. Solviay firtl\ a very large in- let from the Irish sea, was on our right ; ainl beyond it, the Cum^ berland moiuitains, some of them of great magnitude. To the west, north-west, and north, we saw 50 or 60 miles into the in- terior of Scotland ; and a fine champaign coiuitry lay on our rear towards Carlisle. Four miles from hence is the village of Gretna Oreen, celebrat- ed for the coupling blackfunith who lives in it. Tlie laws of mar- ritiige in Scotland are very simple. If two persons agree to marry, they can carry their intention into efEfXt by declaring their union before witnesses; acd this, though contrary to the rules of tlic church, and to the general practice of the country, constitutes a legal marriage. It is ako applicable to the natives of South Britain when they come to the north ; on which account, it frequently hi^pens, that when a {^ntleman and lady in England iall ii» k)v«, and cannot live without one another, while tUey are so unlbrtunato iu not to be able obtain the consent of tlieir fri^ids, they set off an a matrimonial trip to Scotland; and this being the neai-est vil- lage, on one of the great roads, such marriages are frequently solemnized here. The person who acts as parson on the occasion, but who, in truth, is only, along with one or two more, a witness to the declaration, is called a coupling blacksmith ; and the whole cir- cumstance has given rise to a humorous farce, called Gretna Green. The road beyond this place was very rough, but it was dry. We had a find evening; but towards night it became very cold. We passed Locherby, a small place, and reached Moffat, fifty % 920 TKAVEtS IN miles from Carlisle, to supper. This is a little place among the hills, and only merits notice as the stopping-place of the stages, on the way to and from England. There are some good medicinal springs in its neighbourhood. Leaving Moffat, we had to cross a large chain of hills ; but I can give no particular account of the configuration of the country; for, though I have often passed through it, it has always been in the night. The night was now very cold ; but a gentleman left the mail at Moffat, and we engaged his seat $ so we changed guard, and took, as the sailors call it, " spell and spell about" of the inside. In this way we passed the sources of the Clyde, and the Lead hills to the right, and journeyed onward at a good pace. As I \ras taking my outside station, about day-light, I heard a dialogue be* twcen the iwo drivers in broad Scots, being the first I had heard for 14* months; and, such is the effect of habit, that, although! considered myself a sort of adept at the Scottish language, and had frequently practised it, this had a surprising effect upon my ear. It appeared more broad than any thing I had ever heard b^ fore. " A, Johnny, mill," says the one, " I canna get this thing fixt" « Can ye no ?" said the other ; " what ails't?" « Goth, I dinna ken weel ; but it winnadraw through wi* me." ** Ye'll bet- ter cut it." " Na, I'll no fash to do that yet; I'll tak my teetii tiirt." I could liOt see what they were about; but they soon got it to righti), whatever it was, and we drove on. . About sun-rise, we reached the village of Hamilton, the seat of one of the most ancient families of Scotland. It is 1 1 miles from Glasgow, on the river Clyde, in a fine fertile valley, and is noted for raising fruit. A great many muslin weavers, who work for the manufacturers of Glasgow, live at this place. Indeed, they are scattered all over the country. We passed Clyde iron-works, the second in extent in Scotland, and reached Glasgow at 7 o'clock, when I had a joyful inecting with my firiends, after an absence of nearly 15 months. , \ ,i ♦., • •-''* r; *■ ■ ■^' ISKGLANOi. 211 ,' .. ..'.. ':■.' ' ' ". ' ' "'•- I''' "' ".' L ■ CHAPTER XLVIL > .: I ■•< ■ ■ ■ . Glasgow,— ^-Manchester, — Leeds, — Edinburghm ' - I CONTINUED in Glasgow until the 19th of June, wIkb, ia prosecution of my commercial business, I set out for England. took a passage by the mail coach, and travelled through ~ and Preston, to Manchester. The country from Preston to Chester is probably among the richest in England. The fiddb are well cultivated ; the houses are so close, that it looks like « oaaati> nued village; and the quantity of machinery and bleach-fidds duA every where appears is immense. The road passes through €3iar- ley and Bolton, both manu&cturing villages ; but the whole of their trade is subservient to Manchester, which may be considep- ed as the great manufacturing capital of all England. The dis- tance from Preston to Manchester is 36 miles. From Mai.chester I found it necessary to go to Liverpool, dis- toDt 36 miles. The road passes through a rich, well-cultivKted^ level country, in which are two considerable villages, Warringtoa and Prescott. The country becomes more sterile towards LifCT" pool; but this part of it is beautified by many seats, the propertf of the Liverpool merchants. Among the number is Gilead HaO^ the seat of Dr. Solomon, of Balm of Gilead memory, one (^ the most beautiful buildings in England. . t . My commercial friend in Liverpool being a prompt man of business, I made an arrangement with him, in the course of a fear hours, to my entire satis&ction; and immediately returned ti» Manchester. From the ample assistance a£Porded me by my fnend^ I was able to expedite my business in this place with ^reat cde- rity, and I had an excellent opportunity of observing the veiy ex- tended manufactures and commerce pf this place, and thdr appli- cation to the American trade. .....;• Manchester, though it ranks only as a village^ is a pUoe of great antiquity, a town having been raised here by the Romans in the 97th year of the Christian sera, and is now, in ptnnt of population, the second town in England ; — in manufactures de- cidedly the first. The streets are about 600 m number, and some pf them spacious; but a great many are too narrow, and the town is, upon the whole, very irregular. The number of hooics is ■•ys. m. ii Wmm 1 ^r^.-ul*@alva ^.i^ ?im ^2 TRAVKLS IN computed at upwards of 12,000) and the iiihabitants amount to 84,020. Manufactures have been established at this place for upwards of 200 years, and have been continually encreasing ; but (he encrensc since the application of machinery, on an extended scale, to the cotton tradev and particularly since the introduction of Bolton ind Watt's improved st«am engine, exceeds all former exr.mplu, in any place or any country. There are a vast number of cotton nills erected in the town, and many of them employ upwards of 1000 hands. The quantity of raw material consnmed annually lu this branch, U immense, and a bare enumeration of the articles h ill nuinufaotured into, would fill a number of pages. Those nmt calculated for the American trade arc fustians, waistcoat- Ui{;s, shirtings, cambrics, dimities, painted callicoes, nankeens, j«ttns, checks, ginghams, chambrays, table napery, stockings, ^ovos, braces, b^-quiltit, &c. &c. Of other articles there are also extensive and important manufactures, such as hats, silks, t*p€S) fringes, laces, &c. ; and Manchester is a geneitil market ifnt the manufactures of the whole country, particularly every de- •cription of woollens. Fmm Manchester I travelled to Bury, nine miles, through an VICV^ but fertile and well-cultivated country. The principal SUMttfaetures here ar« woollens, particularly plains, coatings, blan- kets, iwd fknnels* ,.i\iti V .^^i -A. ^ 'ii .Ai !■ : From Bury to Rochdale is 6 miles, the country nearly the same ii* th« hst mentioned. Here are considerable manufactures, par- riealariy flannels of a very excellent quality. •-H^rom Rochdale to Halifax is 17 miles, partly through anex- tM&^ite moor; and the whole country is hilly, some of it romantic. At Halifax there are very extensive manufactures of woollens, plltticuTariy of broad and narrow cloths. Frditi Halifex to Leeds is 18 miles, through a hilly country, of which the soil improves towards the latter. L^> is beauti^Uy situated iti a very fertile country, and is Ae ^teateat town in England lor the woollen manufactures. The most iwipotlant manufectures for -America are bi'oad ami narrow dethS) fiannek, serges, cassimeres, calamancoes, durants, bom* ktteem, bemtsaeeits, biankets, 8cc. The population is upwardi its amount to From tills place I passed alwut 12 miles, through a pretty woll-sintled country, but partly moor, to the great London ron(f, wirli I view of taking my })a?8age for Glasgow by the London nrnil. When the mail came forward, it w*as full, and^I was disap- pointed ; bnt a coach passed soon after for Newcastle, and being informed t>mt the line was continued from, thence to Edinburgh, I availed myself of that conveyance. It was nbout 1 1 o'clock at night when we set out, and, travel- ling all night, we passed through Northallerton, about 30 mile* from \^ here we started, at day-light next morning. The country^ I was informed, is pretty fertile and well cultivated. From Northallerton to Durham is about 27 miles, through a pretty fertile country, arid Durham, the capital of the' county of the same name, is beautifully situated on the river Wear, sur- rounded by fertile and well cultivated fields. From Durham to Newcastle is 16 miles, partly tliroftgh fertile fields, but the soil becomes worse towards Newcastle, and in that neighbourhood the country abounds with coal mines. We had frequent and extensive view of the German Ocean by the way, and I could not help contrasting the breadth of the country, not much more than a day's journey, with the extended country which I had lately left. Ought not Britain, exclaimed I mentally, to be proud of having settled America, to conciliate the affections at her growing population, and to cultivate a good understanding ? Newcastle is situated on the river Tyne, and is large and popu- lous, but irregular, arid not very clean ; it is chiefly remarksfbld for its great coal trade, the greater part of the supply of the English metropolis beitig derived from it. Here I stopped all night, and started by the coach for Edin- burgh next morning, at 5 o'clock. At 14 mile? from Newcastle, we reached Morpeth, an inconsiderable town, and, 1 9 miles fur- ther, we reached Alnwick, the seat of the earl of Northumberland. The castle is beautifully situated on an eminence, and it is sur- rounded by a high wall at a distance, which encloses, I presume, nearly 300 acres of ground, all laid out for grazing. Thew-hole' has a most magnificent appearance. From Alnwick to Herrndk I is 27 miles. In the whole distance from Newcastle to Berwick, I the country presents a pretty uniform appearance. The soil, ex- I cept at some particular places, is rather thin. There are fii^W I lands to the west, and to the east is the German ocean, rilongf tM TKAVEtii nr the road rnns within a few miles the whole way. To- Berwick^ it is almost close along shore. Bnwkk is situated on the Tweed, near the border of Scotland, . pretty populous, but irregularly built town, and carries •n cootklerable manufactures. But it is chiefly remarkable for Acwlmon fisheries, which are very extensive, and employ a num* berofsmall vessels in the London trade, called Berwick smacks. A fern miles from Berwick, we passed the Scottish border, at a house was pointed out, where matrimonial contracts are : on the same principle as at Gretna Green. After passing this place, the road leaves the sea-coast, and crosses the country tbraagh elevated lands, but apparently pretty fertile, and under cscriknt cultivation; and this continues to Dunbar, toward vhkfa the road approaches the coast of the Firth of Forth. Dunbar is a pretty large and ancient town, finely situated on the Forth, firom whence there is an elegant view of the singular lodk called the Bass, North- Berwick Law, the coasts of the firtb, and the interior of the county of Fife. It is 11 miles from Ber- vide to Haddington, a considerable place, and 16 miles more to Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. In all this distance the ami is lacellent, aud the agriculture in the most improved state. We reached Edinburgh at 10 o'clock at night, having travelled tkn day 120 miles. Edinburgh is, without exception, the roost beautiful city that I have yet seen. Its situation is singular. To the eastward of the ci^ is a conical hill, called Arthur's Seat : its base is probably a- bout half a mile in diameter, and it; is 700 feet high. To the north* west of this is a ridge of hills called Salisbury Craigs, probably a- bout one third of a mile in length, and about 350 feet high, having a sfeq) acclivity on the west, which overhangs the eastern part of the city. Near the foot of these the city commences, and from thence the High-street runs due west about a mile, rising at an an* gle of about 10 degrees from the horizon, and at its extremity ii terminated by the Castle, on a rock, from whence there is a perpen* dicular descent of about 350 feet. This ridge is only of sufficient breadth on the top to form the street, from whence it immediately Mb by a steep descent on both sides, and nearly to a level with the ^t of the High-street. To the south, a narrow street called the Cowgate, runs in the hollow, aud, beyond it, the ground again im- mediately rises, and spreads out into an open plain, on wliicl^ standi SCOTLAND. 225 the south part of the town. The hollow to the north is called the North Loch, because it was once filled with water; but it is now drained ; and to the north of it the ground rises, and spreads out into a fine plain, on which the New Town is built. ^^'^■'^ To the east of the New I'own there is a smaller hill called Calton Hill, which is public property, and affords fine walks and most a- greeable prospects. The Old Town is remarkable for its singular configuration, and lofty houses, some of them 14^ stories high; and the New Town, whether we view it in regard to the elegance of its plan, or the regularity, symmetry, and beauty of its buildings, is beyond all comparison the most elegant city I ever saw. *.kiyEw The Old and New Towns are connected by the North Bridge, an elegant building, which crosses the North Loch ; and a fine street is continued across the High-street, and by the South Bridge cross- es the Cowgate, and connects the south part with the north part. This bridge has elegant buildings on each side, except at the mid- dle, where they are interrupted by the Cowgate; and here the view is as singular as can well be imagined : being elevated on the bridge, you see the busy inhabitants below, to the east and west, the whole length of the street Leith is considered as the port of Edinburgh, and is connected with it by a very broad avenue, nearly two miles long, called Leith Walk. The whole population of Edinburgh and Leith was, in 1801,82,560. The whole adjacent country abounds in rich scenery, and well cultivated fields and gardens ; and from its peculiar configuration, it exhibits a greater variety of fine views than any other place I have ever seen. Edinburgh is the seat of the supreme court, and the law has become a fashionable study among the nobility and gentry of Scotland ; the greater part of whom have their winter residence in the city. This circumstance not only affords a permanent fund for the support of the city, but forms an assemblage of beauty and fiishion rarely e- .?iau CHAPTER XLVIII. ' '' ,, ;^j.. Giasgffvo, — Stirling^ — Oei^, — Met/ivenj — Peith. IxAVlNG completed my shipments, I had now little else to do but wait the return, and of course could pay some attention to pub- lic matters. The plans of the new ministry soon began to develope themselves. One of the most successful engines which they had used to oust their predecessors was to charge them with want ofe- nergy ; and it became necessary for them to support their character by adopting energetic measures. Accordingly a'great big expedi- tiou was prepared, with much solemnity and parade ; and having looked about in all directions for an object to wreak the vengeance of the nation upon, they hit upon Denmark. Denmark was ancu- BCOTLANO. !lt7 tral and friendly power ; but that was of no importance, — they could there strike a blow with effect, and convince the world of the tre- mendous power of Britain, and the energy of her ministers. Thb blow was struck — and a terrible blow it waa lor Denmark j but it was more terrible still to Britain, — it laid her honour law iii the dust, and pointed her out as the enemy of the civiliaed worlds I dreaded that the next blow would be struck at America, — and 80 it was ; but in a different form : it was a blow at neutral trade. The fuinous orders in council nindc their appearance on the 1 1th of November, 1807, and at one fell swoop prostratetl the once ilour- ishin^ trade of Britain and America at the feet of Bonaparte. People of all ranks weic astonished at these proceedings of the cabinet. Ft was some time indeed before the natufo of the orders in council was understood, such was the remarkable obscurity of the language in which they were drawn : and or^s followed upon or- ders, for a month or six weeks^ to explain them ; but their effects were soon felt. To me it was evident that the American people never would submit to them ; and I thought I had good reasons for forming that opinion. I had recently returned from America — I had ardently studied the genius and power of that people— I knew that their spirit of stern independence would never submit to be dic- tated to where they should carry their own goods in their own ves- sels-'I calculated that they had power to do without British trade, if they were driven to it. I trembled for the result ; and I wept by anticipation at the ruin of a business that I had organized with such labour, and in which all my capital and all my creiUt were embarked. But, a solitary individual, what could. I do ? Those who wielded the power of the country had passed the law ; and it was the fiat of fate. There was stJll a faint glimmering of hope lefl that parliament miglit, in its wisdom, repeal the orders in council ; and judging it expedient to contribute^ my mite of knowledge to an itlu^rious and independent member of that honourable body, I wrote the letter in the Appendix, No. 2. In drawing up this letter I considered it my doty to give a short sketch of the view which ray observations led jne to take of the American character, not only as an act of gratitude for the kind hospitality of that })eo|)lc; but be- cause it was the fashion of the day, and supported by one of the roost popular of the periodical writers, to trinluce and vilify th6 country by every lying story that could be laid hold of. This letter was drawn up about tlie 20th of Jamiary, but it was 2S8 TRAVELS IN not sent off betbru the 27tli, by which time wc had the news of the iirst fruits of the orders in council — the American embargo; and this brought matters, as fur us I wus concerned, to issue, i knew from my letters that our fiinds would be blocked up in (ieor- g^a ; I could calculate u|)on no time for a return ; so I nindc the best arrangement that I could devise, under existing circumstuncc;, and resolved to wait with us much patience as I could for the result. Having completed this arrangement, I took a journey to see my relations in the easi, country. On the 12th of March, 1808, I lefl Glasgow by the stngc for StirUng, distant 27 miles. The first 13 miles is through a prcttv good country to the village of Cumbernauld, principally occupied by muslin weavers. Two miles beyond this the roud passes the Forth and Clyde canal, a work of great utility, by which there is a sloop navigation fiom one side of the island to the other. Four miles from thence there is an extensive printfield, after whidi the road passes through a dreary moor, till witliin two or three miles of Stirling, when the Carse commences, one of the most fertile •pots in Scotland. Stirling is situated on the Forth, at the head of sloop navigation, and is a place of great antiquity, having been long the residence of the Scottish kings, and is distinguished in the history of the wars with England. It is situated on a hill, somewhat like Edinburgh, terminated by a castle, from whence there is one of the most inagnificent views in Scotland. Stirling contains about 5200 people, who carry on considerable manufactures, of which carpctting is the chiefl •:(-.; ■':,.,. •^. ........ , , . .. . •, . From Stirling to Dumblane is six miles, and the road winds through a country as romantic as can well be imagined. It is the opening of the Ochill Hills, in which is the confluence of three considerable rivers, the Forth, the Teith, and the Allan. Dumblane is situated on the latter, and is a small place, abound- ing in little dirty houses, but ornamented with the remains of an old cathedral. From hence the road continues along the north side of the Sheriff Moor, well known in Scottish histoiy, 11 miles, when it winds to the northward, and proceeds through the Moor of Orchill, a very elevated country, from the summit ol which there is an extensive view, whence I could descry the seat of rny nativity, 20 miles distant. Passing Muthil, a small village, the country improves for two «COTlAND. 2^ milei to the bank« of the river Erin, which we crossed by n roo<1 stone bridge, ond thence nscended q pretty steep acclivity of }miri n mile, where, loftily situated on the brow of a hill, is the villu^c of Crieff. This is but a sninll place, but it was interesting to me as being the country of my ancestors. I spent some little time among my relations, and then set forward for Mcthven, distant 1 1 miles. The country between Crieff and Methven is tolerably g(MHl, and a turn- pike rond has lately been made, which renders travelling very plca- ^ant and expeditious. Having spent a few days at this place, 1 shall avail myself of the opportunity to introduce an account of my native parish, which will itervc to illustrate the parish establishment of Scotland gene- rally. The village of Mcthven is situated six miles to the westward of Pertii : the parish is boundetl by Fowlis on the west and north ; by Moneiily and Redgorton on the east ; and Ti)ipermoor on the south. Its extreme length is about seven miles, and breadth three* Its area is about 19 square miles, and its contents in acres 12,000. The surface is undulating, some part of it hilly, but not moun- tainous ; it is well supplied with rivulets and springs ; and the river Almond, a romantic stream, abounding in falls and mill -scats, runs along its whole northern boundary, a distance of six or seven miles. The soil is very unequal. About five square miles consist of nioor, which is unfit for cultivation, but affords turf and heath for fuel, and some little grazing. Two miles consist of moss, Which is altogether unfit for any agricultural purpose, but affords excellent fuel, called there jam/*.* Two miles are in wood, called the wood of Methven. One mile is occupied with the policies of Meth- ven castle, and about as much with those of Balgowan. Of the eight remaining miles, one third may be reckoned rather poor, but the remainder is good fertile land. Tlie whole parish is owned by two proprietors, thence called heritors. Colonel Smith, of Methvenj has the largest portion, probably not less than three fourths, and the remainder belongs to tlie celebrated general Graham, of Balgowan. There was until iiUeiy another propietor, who owned an estate called Tippermal- locli, consisting of about 700 acres of excellent land ; but not being entailed, it was sold, on bis demise, by his heirs, to Smith of Methven, for jfil 7000. . 230 TRAVELS IN The present population is 1280 maks, and 1375 females, in ail S65d, being nearly 140 to the square mile; which is a gre ^3 TRAVBLS IN •ermon, and a prayer after it. He then gave out another and, with a benediction, dismissed the congregation. If there were any children to be baptised, they were presented immediately after singing the last psalm ; and this was performed with great solemnity, in the face of the whole congregation. The parent was admonished to train up the child in the nurture and admonition of the Lord — to be exemplary in his iamily, and togm tlie child an education according to his circumstances ; which hav. ing assented to, the child was admitted a member of the church by baptism, performed by sprinkling water on the face. In sum. mer there was an interval of about an hour, when the congrega- tion again met, and the afternoon exercise was conducted in the same way, with the omission of the lecture and mid-psalm. The worship in the seceder church was performed exactly in the same way, but was longer continued ; and they had an inter- val both in summer and winter. . The religious tenets of the parish were calvinistic, in which the established church was pretty liberal ; but the seceders were very rigid and austere. No part of the discipline, however, had any tendency to clash with the established habits of the people, except that which prohibited promiscuous dancing ; that is, men and women dancing together. We had — for my mother was a seceder, and 1 was one of course — we had frequent addresses from the pul- pit on the profanity of this exercise, and the old douce elders and " unco guid" of the congregation were everlastingly admonishing the young and gay against the " awful judgment>like sin of dis- regarding the covenants, and standards of the church ;" but so tliey might. The young and the gay would hear them, and som^ I times look (/(7t/ce on the occasion too; but let a fiddle and bass strike up to the tune of '< The Highlandman kissed his niither," or the " Cameronion rant," the heart-inspiring strain would im- mediately vibrate through every avenue of the body; the young I peasants, and often the old ones, would immediately start up and [ dance ; nor would they have desisteil (I speak of my young days,* I very believe, although Mess John had been in the room, ready to deliver them over to Satan, and his sooty darkness at his elbow, ready to execute the mandate. 'i .t* .. ',. ; For my own part, I was passionately fond of Scottish music I and dancing, from the earliest period of my remembrance ; and w« had most delectable music in the parish. There was a niiii { SCOTLAND. ^S3 of the name of John Bowie, who played delightfully on the fiddle; and his brother Peter was equally celebrated on the bass. They performed at all the weddings round, and a wed- ding could not be held without music and dancing. To these it was the fashion for the young boys, for many miles round, to go; and I never failed to embrace every opportunity that pre- •ented itself. Often, on a stormy winter night, have I walked three or four miles, plashing away through " dub and mire ;*' but the moment that the sound of the fiddle reached my ears, it would set my heart a capering so, that I could • hardly withstand the temptation to dance in the open fields, a quarter of a mile distant from the scene of action. I cannot devote more room to delineate the peculiar manners of the Scottish peasants. I shall therefore only observe here, that those in our parish were, generally speaking, sober, discreet, and Tirtuous ; and referring to the Appendix, No. 3, for further par- ticulars, I shall close this article by an extract from the celebrated '..tt? sh bard, Robert Bums. O Scotia ! my dear, my native soil ! For whom my warmest wish to heaven in sent f Long may ihy hardy sons of rustic toil Be blest with health, and peace, and sweet content ! And, O ! may Heaven their simp*e lives prevent From luxury's oonta^on, weak -id vile ! That, howe'er crowns and coronets be rent ' a A virtuous populace may rise the while, --t,.. ,_ . And stand, a wall of fire, t^round their much-loved Lsle. From Methven I went to Perth, where I had served my ap- prenticeship to business, and spent a number of my early years. The country is well cultivated, and abounds with fine scenery. The eastern part of the river Almond abounds with printfields and bleachfields, and a large canal is carried from it, about three miles, to supply the town with water, on which there are very im- portant works erected. . ... < ., ttir Perth is situated on the river Tay, at the head of tide wa- ter, and is one of the handsomest towns in Scotland. The scen- ery around it is very rich, and the public prope ty, consisting of two fine fields, called the North and South Inches, are not only ornamental, but highly useful to the town ; affording fine walks, and bleaching and grazing grounds. To the east is the hill of Kin- 30 234 TRAVELS IN noul) about 800 feet high, and on the oi^osite side of the Tay, 'u the hill of Moncrieif, from whence there are some of the richest views in Scotland. There is an elegant stone bridge across the Tay at Perth, which adds much to the convenience and beauty of the town. Perth contains about 1£,000 people, who are principally em- ployed in trades and manufactures, which are carried on with great spirit ; particularly in linen and cotton. There are valuable fishings upon the Tay, which keep a number of vessels employed in the London trade ; and ship-building is carried on to a con- siderable extent. j. ,,, The system of education is upon an excellent footing, particu- larly the academy, at which is taught a college education in minia- ture ; and it has furnished more good mathematical scholars, cal- culated for tlie ordinary occupations of life, than any other semi- nary that has ever come under my observation. Having spent a few days in this place, I set out by the coach for Methven, and, bidding adieu to my relations, I continued my journey to Glasgow, Edinburgh, CHAPTER XLIX, 'Dundee, — Falkland, I MENTIONED in the last chapter, that I had made the best arrangement I could under existing circumstances; but to carry it into ftill effect, was attended with a good deal of difficulty^ and I was obliged in consequence, to take a journey to the east coun- try. I accordingly left Glasgow on the Sth of July, and travel- led by the coach to Edinburgh. Next morning, I cros.se(l the Forth at Lcith. The Forth is here seven miles broad, encreasiiig in breadth to the eastward, and contracting to the westward; ami there are several islands in it, but of no great extent. The whole presents a very i>icturesque view. The packets generally make a passage in from 10 minutes to un hour; and they are under such good regulations, and so cautiously conducted, that from time immemorial none of them have been lost. > Kinghorn, on the north side of the Forth, *i a small towu, built on high ground, sloping towards the Forth, of whidi, and re across the SCOTLAND. 235 of Edinburgh, and Leith, on the opposite side, it has a fine view. Four miles to the eastward is Kirkaldy, a long straggling town, built mostly on one street, close along the shore; and here there are considerable manufactures of hemp, flax, and cotton; par- ticularly of checks and ticks. ' i , '. . A mile beyond this, on the height, is Pathhead, where a great deal of weaving is done, principally for the Kirkaldy manufac- turers. A mile to the east is Dysart, a little town remarkable for its coal-works ; and the whole coast to the eastward is studded with towns, containing from 200 to 400 people. From Pathhead, I travelled 1 6 miles to Cupar, through a va- riegated country, abounding in hill and djde, woods and small rivulets. The soil is pretty good, and the s^'stem of agriculture is in a very advanced state. Cupar is the county town, and is a populous and thriving place, having considerable manufactures ; particularly of linen goods, such as Silesias and Osnaburgs. The country in its ncighbour- ho'xl is remarkably well cultivated, and the farmers have every appearance of wealth, and its usual concomitant — independence. From Cupar, I travelled 1 1 miles to Dundee, and, being bn horseback, I took the nearest road, which led me over a hilly track of country ; but the soil was fertile, and it was every where covered with fine fields of grain, particularly wheat. While I was enjoying this scenery, and contemplating the bounty of Providence, I was joined by a very communicative, gar- rulous friend, who told me he was a plasterer in Dundee. He began a long talk about America, part of which I knew before, and part of which was never known by mortal man. But it was all gospel in my friend's eyes. He had it from the best authority : he could not be mistaken. — Among other tales, he mentioned that a gentleman, of the name of Millar, had left a good trade in Dundee to go to America, and had settled in the back woods a- niong the savages ; and yet he had come back to try to get his wife to go out also ; alleging that it was a better country than this I " But," added he, " I'm very well pleased where I am, and in- tend to remain ^n Dundee." On drawing towards the place of destination, the road descends by a winding course of considerable extent, from whence there is a beautiful view of the Firth of Tay, which we crossed by a ferry i 936 TIAVULS IN iTofttly Uire« miles broad, and immediately entered the town of Dundee, where I stopped ibr the night. Dundee is a large town, containing upwards of 26,000 inhabi' tants, who have extensive and well-organized manufactures of hemp, flax, and cotton; particularly cotton-bagging, sail-clotli, O^naburgs, and coloured threads. It is one of the principal ship. ping ports in the east of Scotland, and carries on a considerable trade to the Baltic, from which the principal raw materials fot the manufactures are drawn. ,, ,: .:.,.. ..-^ ;.. I soon finished my business here, and returned to Cupar. From thence I travelled to Auchtermouchty, about nine miles to the westward, through a tolerably fertile country. Here also there are considerable linen manufactures. My business was soon finished at this place, and I immediately set out for Edinburgh. The only place of note that I passed was Falkland, once the residence of the kings of Scotland. The remains of the palace are still to be seen, but it is a miserable pile of building, having a room or two occupied as a carpenter's shop ; notwithstanding, it has (i hereditary keeper, with a considerable salary i One of the beautiful Lomond hills rises immediately to the south of Falkland, and reaches an elevation of about 1200 feet. Seven or eight miles to the westward is the other, and there is a continued ridge between them, which affords pasture for a great many sheep. The whole c^ tlie county of Fife abounds with coal, iron, and other minerals. I reached Edinburgh in the evening and next day returned to Glasgow. CHAPTER L. Glasgaociy-^Edinhurgh, — Mr, Fox's birth-day. JL HE orders in council still continued their baleful operation, and and I was kept in a state of inactivity most uncongenial to my es- tablished habits ; but there was no help : " the king willed it," and I was obliged to submit. Under this disagreeable feeling, I was glad to avail myself of any active and rational amusement ; and two much-valued friends, one SCOTLAND. ^7 of tbem a merchant of Liverpool, having invited mc to take a jaunt to Edinburgh, I accepted it with pleasure ; the more so as I heard that the birth-day of Mr. Fox was to be celebrated in a lew days. We left Glasgow on the 20th of January, 1809. Mr. Fox's birth- day was celebrated by the whig party in Edinburgh, on the 24tli. Being acquainted with several members of that illustrious body, I applied for tickets for my Liverpool friend and myself; and we join- ed the party accordingly. A friend, who had assisted in arranging the music, and whose plnro was to be opposite the band, that he niight give the necessary instructions, obligingly accommodated us with seats beside himself; so that we were placed in a favourable situation for observation. The company, nearly 200 in number, assembled at 6 o'clock. Mr. Maul, of Panmure, took the chair; Sir Harry MoncrieffwaS chaplain. The company generally, in point of respectability of cha- racter, liberality of sentiment, and brilliancy of intellect, ranked high among the living characters of the present day. What a bless- ing it would be for mankind, thought I, if the councils of statei could be animated by the spirit, and actuated by the conduct of such men ! But Providence has, (no doubt for wise reasons, though inscrutable to us) ordered it otherwise ; and we must submit, and hope for better days. The first toast, " The glorious and immortal memory of Charles James Fox," was drank in silence, and standing. This was follow- ed by a dirge from the band of vocal music ; after which we had the song of " Scots wha hae wi' Wallace bled," followed by the air to which Burns originally composed it, by the inimitable band of Na- thaniel Gow ; and so mournfully pathetic did they play it, that it brought a plentiful shower of tears fi-om the eyes of many of the cop^nany. cry toast was followed by music, and never did I hear tnuac more elegant or better arranged. Nathaniel Gow, a son of the ce- lebrated Niel Gow, led the band, and, to use the language of my Liverpool friend, he " handled his elbow in great style;** and was well supported by the other performers. The notice of a few of the leading sentiments, with the music that followed, will serve to illustrate the spirit of the company. Toast — The whig party of Scotland. Music — Whigs of Fife. . Toast— Whigs of Englahd. 238 TRAVELS IN ;^i*« •1.; Mitsic — O the rouit beef of Old England ! -'' * - Toast — Whigs of Ireland. Music — Erin go bragh. Toast — A speedy adjustment of our differences witli America, And justice to foreign powers. Music — Yankee Doodle. The whole conduet of the enlightened gentlemen composing this meeting showed that they were actuated by the truly enlightened prin- ciples of the revered character whose birth they met to celebrate; and the last sentiment, and music that accompanied it, is a convinc- ing proof that they entertained liberal sentiments regarding Ame- rica. Had the councils of Mr. Fox prevailed in the British cabi- net, two nations " formed to be mutually beneficial to each other," instead of being, plunged into a calamitous war, might have reaped the mutual advantages of cultivating the arts of peace ! Before leaving Edinburgh, w heard the melancholy account of the battle of Corunna, and the icrifice of one of the most gallant of Britannia's sons, Sir John Mov e. And for what? — To support the independence of %)ain and Portugal ! say the British ministry and their adherents. Of the correctness of thesentimentletposterity judge. The weather was dreadfully cold during our stay at Ediiiburgh, tlie thermometer being one day as low as 2**. On our way to Glas- gow, the snow was so deep, that during a considerable part of the journey we had six horses in the carriage. - CHAPTER LI. Journey to Ireland, — Port Patrick, — Belfast, — Dundrum Bay,— Nessorij. A PERIOD ~was at last put to my state of inactivity. On the 17th of July, as I walked along the street, the carrier put a packet oi letters into my hands, which bore the post-mark of CastlewcUan, in Ireland. On opening it, I found it contained an invoice and bill of lading of a cargo of cotton, shipped by the Lucy from Savannah; but the vessel was bound to LiverpooK and there was nothing to ex* plain why my letters should have been put ashore at Castlewel- lan. I dreaded a shipwreck, and made immediate preparations to go to Ireland. I left Glasgow by the mail stage on the 19th, and travelling SCOTLAND. S39 through a tolerably fertile country about 7 miles, passed through a chain of barren hills, of no great height, about 7 miles more. Eight miles beyond this is Kilmarnock, and towards it the couiitry is a little improved. ■ . r . i , Kilmarnock is a straggling village, but celebrated for its manu- factures of carpets, and as being the scene of several subjects in the works of the Ayrshire poet, who, in one of his poems, honours it with the following notice : Kilmarnock wabstera, fidgc an' claw, An* pour jrour creeshie nations ; An' ye wha leather rax an' draw. Of a' denominations ; Swith to the laigh kirk one an' a'. An' there tak up your stations Then aff to Bigbie's in a raw, And pour divine libations ■■,-■■ ' < . •. « For joy this day. We stopped at the said Bigbie's, and, for the humour of the thing, I called for a libation of porter; but there w^os no jlt^ in the drinking of it — it was sour, stale, and spiritless. From Kilmarnock to Ayr is 12 miles : the road is very good, but the country is poor, although it certainly bears an excellent crop of " bonny lasses :" the women of Ayrshire are beautiful. On entering the town of Ayr, every thing that I saw reminded me of my favourite bard. The " Dungeon Clock'* and " Wal- lace Tower," the " twa steeples," could ba seen at a distance, and 1 passed by the " New Brig," where a little way up the stream I saw the " Auld Brig;" and the whole scenery brought the extraor- dinary dialogue between the " Brigs of Ayr" fresh to my recollec- tion. " ' Ayr has no manufactures for America, and I had not a moment to view the town ; so, procuring a chaise, I posted all night to- wards Port Patrick. The night was dark, damp, and dismal; but I my haste would brook no delay. I hurried on : at midnight I was atGirvan, at daylight at Ballantrae, and, at 8 o'clock, I break- fasted on the east side of Loch Ryan. From thence the road passes through a poor moory country to Port Patrick, which I reached at I one o'clock. Here I was informed that the packet had not sailed for five days, such had been the violence of the weather ; and that a number of passengers were in waiting, one of them a gentleman of my ae- SIO TRAVELS IK qiuiintancc from Glasgow, bound to Ireland on an errand of tlic ffaine nature as my own. It whs Sunday, and the gentlemen were at church ; but I was told they would soon return, when they would take dinner, and the packet would sail immediately after. I was rejoiced at this intelligence, and ran up stairs to shave and clean myself; but the despatch was greater than 1 had been led to imagine, for I had only got my beard half off when I was informed that I must immediately go on board the packet, or lose my \m ■age ; I therefore buckled up my trunipety, and, in the style that the Israelite messengers were once presented to their king, hall' shaved and half not, I presented myself on board the packet>boat, and she immediately got under way. Port Patrick is one of the most singular ports I ever saw. The town consists of a few houses only, and the harbour is a small inlet among a large mass of rugged rocks. The whole coast is lof- ty, and lined with rocks ; and this harbour, small as it is, is the only place where a boat could Innd for many miles ; on which account it is one of the great thoroughtares to Ireland, where the mail pack- ets daily cros8. The mode by \%hich they warp the boats out and in, is very ingenious and singular* ■ The wind was almost right ahead, and the swell considcrftble, but we got warped out, aud put to sea. For the first few hours the weather was pretty moderate, and we got about half-way across, when the wind increased to a very severe gale, which continued all night and great part of next day. The passengers in the cabin were mostly all sick, and in all m}^ passages across the Atlantic I nevor suffered so much. But in the steerage it was more serious, The captain was obliged to shut the hatches; and the vessel being crowded with passengers, some of them were almost stifled to death. In thjs way we were beat about in the channel for 2* hours, often within u few miles of the Irish coast, though we | could not reach it ; and finally we were obliged to put back to Port Patrick. . > ' ^- :r Two days thereafter we had a fair wind, which wafted us ovw I 27 miles, in a few hours ; and we set foot on Pad(h/s dominum just as it began t<> get dark. The degree of prejudice that is artfully kept alive in Britain against Ireland, would hardly be believed by those who are not ac- 1 quainted with it ; and such was the effect it iiad produced on me, that though I did not believe ttie twentieth part of the stories that inELAND. ' 241 were told of the " wild Irish," yet, on hmding at Donaghadec, I had considerable apprehensions as to my personal safety; and nothing could have induced me to travel alone at that hour of the night in a post-chaise. I therefore availed myself of the company of my Glasgow friend, whose business was equally urgent with my own: we posted all night by Belfast and Hillsborough; and at day- light arrived at Banbridge. Here we parted, he to go to Wex- ford ; I took a post-chaise, and drove on with all the despatch that a pair of very sorry horses would carry me, to Dundrum bay. On my way thither I learned the unfortunate fate of the vessel ; and on reaching the spot, I found her lying a total vreck on the shore, and the inhabitants collected to a public sale of her ma- terials. The supercargo assured mc that all the cargo was safe: it was all landed to be sure, but on examination I found it so completely drenched with sea-water, that it was very questionable whether it would bring one-third of its value; and the expenses I found would be excessive. My first impression was, that we should sell off the whole on the spot, and the agent and I had an advertisement drawn up to that effect ; but this not meeting the approbation of ray friends in Britain, nor the owners of the other parts of the car- go, I reluctantly yielded up my opinion to theirs, and agreed to ship it to Liverpool : in consequence of this determination, I was detained eight weeks in Ireland. As our agent lived at Newry, I had frequent occasion to go there, and I found him a most hospitable nan, frank, friendly, and obliging. The morning after my arrival he carried me to the coffee-house, where tliero was an animated debate concerning a newspaper; and which subject, though apparently trifling, actu- ally involved the catholic question. One of the subscribers, a very respectable merchant in the place, was charged with a breach of the rules, by abstracting the public papers for his own private use. The charge was founded on the trivial circumstance, that the gentleman l)eing confined to his bed by indisposition, his clerk wished to communicate a piece of very interesting intelligence, and carried away, with leave of the bar -keeper, one of the papers which contained it, after the room was shut at night, which he re. turned before it was opened in the morning. A common observer would have thought that there was really no harm in this : it \Yas ,. . 31 11 TRAVELS IN S42 calculated to iujiirc nobody ; and if there was any blame at all, it rcbtcd witli the clerk, not the employer. Dut «o did not one of the sub!M;ribcrs think. He made it the ground of a nioHt serioiu charge, in which he overlooked the clerk altogether, and fixed on the cnipU>yer only. The matter wa« explained, and, as miglii have been expected, the charge was scouted by the good sense of the people. " Why was it mode?" might be asked, with sur. prise, by those who do not know the management of regular eo- vcrnnicnts. The gentleman who made it was an officer under go- vcrnment, and a hercsif hunter ; his antagonist had the audacity to be a lloman catholic. Ncwry is siluatetl on a river called Newry Water, at the head of Carlingford Bay, and enjoys a very considerable commerce, espc- cially in tlic Liverpool trade. The bay is navigable for large ves- sels to within a few miles of the town, and the navigation is thence continued for smaller vessels into the town by a canal, which ruiii to Lough Neagh. l'l»e greater part of the town is low, and not very clean ; but part of it is on high ground, on which thechurcii stands, with a low squat steeple. Tlie country round is hilly, ex- cept to the north-west, where it spreads out into fine fertile plains. The peculiar configuration of the town, and state of society in it, occasioned the following lines from the satirical pen of Dean Swift: .«,, . * . -^ , :.., jjjg,, church, low steeple^ j«*4 r Dirty streets, and proud people. >, i, — •^^. >,, Whether the people in general deserve the character, I cannot say; but those among whom I associated certainly did not. I found them frank, alTable, polite, and friendly. My business in Ireland proved much more troublesome than was originally anticipated, and I was induced to go to Belfast to make some enquiry concerning it. From Newry to Banbridge is 10 miles, through a tolerably jiood soil, improving towards the latter })lace, which is a small town, surrounded by fine bleachfields, and has a good linen market. Five miles beyond Banbridge we passed Droniore, the scat of one of the Irish bishops; and four miles from thence we reached Hillsborough, finely situated, in a ricli and flourishing country, and ccntaining about 100 houses. The church is an elegant building, with a very lofty spire; and the windows are stained, in imitation of some of the English cathe- drals. This is the scat of the Downshire family, one of the most wealthy in Ireland. •, I cannot sav; IRELAND. 2i3 'fhrcc miles beyond this id Lisbiim, a thriving little town, in which cotton nmnufuctories have bvcn established to n very conni- (lcral)lc extent ; and seven miles from thence, through a very ele- gniil country, and highly cultivated, is the town of Belfast. Ikifuct is situated at the head of Belfast Lough, and is a hand- some pincc, having extensive cotton and linen manufactories, and u very considerable shipping trade. I was detained here part of two days, and found the inhabitants very civil and obliging, 'i'hose, in particular, with whom I had business, were unconmcnlv atten- tive; and one gentleman, who was a good deal co.;';?ri;nMt with the mode of managing shipwrecks and da'.i i<^i;d ioilou, a,'i/?o'jt)er, n Iujjj or-* ous-iooking fellow, recognized me. "* Wwi r.ot you ihe t;;en(,len5n;>," said he, " that I got the chaise for the I'otJicr mor';;"»f/, and t'ldt gave me a five-penny in place of a tcn-pcT'.v.Vj t?ra(Vr„' he h.wL no more change ?" "May be«o," said 1, tokir.g my scot in die carriage. "And shall I really shut the do^r?" snys, he looking very humorously in my face. " Certainly," said 1^ preieiuun^^ i^i^ norancc of his meaning : " we can't travel with tlt(> c»irriag'j ioor open." " Well now," said he, still holding thk^ dcxv, ' aho v/cui-i liave expected it from that good, generous- looking fare ','" " 13y my skoul/* said I, Paddy, (giving him a ten-penny,) "ifyouirwit- men don't make money, it will not be for want of b.ass."" " Och / dear, sure our tongues were never mea:.it foi the pockot." rfi.id Pad- dy, shutting the door with a humorous srji'.o, a id ^ve drove rn. From Newry I returned, accompanied b) rny frio.ul, tj]Jundrum Bay, where 1 had immense trouble vlti. the cargo; but this sub- ject, though of great importance *r me. being of no consequence to the reader, I shall pass it o\er, and notice a few of those oc- currences which aiP more geacrally interesting. Dundrum Buy, where the vessel was :$trandcd, is a large bend in the Irish Sea, extending across from Annalong on the south- west to Point St. John on the south-east, about 12 miles; and it extends into the country about five miles. To the west ai:e the lofty Mourne mountains, one of them (Slieve Donard,) the highest in Ireland. To the north-east of the mountains, the country spreads out into pretty fertile fields. .. . _ , 4; * I ''m. 4- iUW jr.., .aJ!s ^^ 'i !S44 TRAVELS IN At the foot of the mountains stands Newcastle, a small villag«, and from thence eastward the sea shore is a sandy beach, two miles to Dundrum, where there is an inlet. This inlet spreads to the east and west a considerable distance ; the western part is a narrow peninsula, abounding with rabbits, and has been convert- ed into a rabbit warren. The Lucy was driven ashore on tlie eastern part of this peninsula ; and the cargo was landed on the p^-emises of the proprietors of the rabbit warren, a very respecta- ble and hospitable family, where I found the captain and super- cargo ; and with whom I also lodged during my stay there. The landlord was near 70 years of age, very stout made, re- markably humoursome, and a great lover of the game of whist The landlady was nearly as fond of whist as her husband; and when they joined their forces, they were an overmatch for almost all who ventured to play against them. They had a large family, all grown up, of whom four sods and three daughters were at home; they all played whist: they were also visited by some of the most respectable people in the neighbourhood, and often, in the evenings, they had very en- tertaining whist parties. • ' , . .'. '.. ,\ , • It was early in the morning, after one of these parties, that the Lucy met with her hard fate. She was bound to Liverpool, and, being past Skerries-light, was within a few hours* sail of pilot ground, when the gale commenced ; and, after weathering it for three days, she was at last driven ashore here. The old man, who was weather-wise, anticipated the event. He rose from the card-table, and looked out ; and, on resuming his seat, observed, " It cheats me, if there be not a rat caught in the trap before morning :" and so there was. On going to the beach in the morning, there, high and dry, the Lucy lay ; and another vessel, about a mile to the westward. The captain and supercargo, who were almost dead with fa- tigue, were taken to the house, and hospitably entertained; and measures were taken to secure the wreck. In the evening there was a whist party, and the old man, seeing the captain look very pitiful and dejected, advised him to take a hand at whist, to cheer his spirits. The captain was persuaded ; but something else than whist was uppermost in his mind» and he could hardly keep him- self awake while he played two or three games very badly. H^ relinquished the game, and went to bed, in the same room where IRELAND. 245 the landlord slept. The landlord did not go to bed for some hours after, when, awakening the captain with some difficulty, the lat- ter started up with a halloa, calling out, " What's the matter ?" « faith, the matter's not great, dear," said the landlord. " I only wanted to tell you that you're a d— -d bad hand at whist, and by J— s, you shall never be a partner of mine again, for I lost two ten-pennies by you." He was a very early riser, and generally came to my room in the morning to wake me ; when he would entertain me with a thousand witty sayings. Sometimes he would descant on the beauties of the creation, the brightness of the sun, the healthy sea-breeze, the rising plants, and the singing of the birds. At other times he would remark, that the air was " as thick as but- ter-milk," or that he could cut it with a knife ; on which occa- sions he would say, " You had better lie still, and take another sleep, dear." We were introduced to a number of the families round ; among others, to the doctor of the place, who was n man of talents, and esteemed one of the greatest wits in all the counti-y. At a visit- ing party, our supercargo and the doctor entered into a punning conversation ; but the supercargo was no match for the doctor at this kind of discourse. He had been amusing the company with a number of tales concerning the wonderful size of some of the animals in America ; amongst others the well-known story of the amazing large musquetoes that bit general Washington through the boots.* As an offset, the doctor told an equal number of tales jibout the wonderful animals in Ireland, meeting the supercargo in every point, except the musquetoes. " Well," said the super- cargo, triumphantly, " you must acknowledge that our flies arc larger than yours." " Yes, faith,'' cried the doctor, " I'll acknow- ledge it with all my heart, if you'll only take away the f from them." Several linen merchants were in the neighbourhood, who gave me a history of the linen trade of Ireland, and stated that the stoppajre of the American trade was ruining their business. One of theni had recently returned from Rio Janeiro, where he had been with a cargo of linens, to the value of nearly 60,000 sterling, tended by the flattering accounts held out by the iupporter&.of • Sjo Weld's Trarcls. '■ii i'.i c? va,w .. S46 TRAVELS IN the" ministry. He returned with a most deplorable tale. He was not able to sell above one third, at a loss of 30 per cent., and he could only get a precarious produce for return, by which he an- ticipated a loss of from iO to 20 per cent. more. The remainder of the goods he was obliged to consign into other hands, and leave the place. His loss altogether, he supposed, would be fully one half; and he said that almost every other sort of goods were sub- ject to a similar depreciation. Goods were pouring in from all quarters, — London, Liverpool, Glasgow, Manchester, Birming- ham, Sheffield, &c. ; and so badly informed were the people in some places, that many articles sent were altogether unsuitable for the market : iron grates, fenders, fire-irons, warming-pans, and skates, were exported to the Brazils. But the prince regent was our august ally, and therefore that country must be a fine market ibr all sorts of manufactures. " Only look at the map," the min- istenalists would exultingly exclaim ; " only look at the map, and see the amazing extent of the country : how rich ! how finely watered ! And then the gold mines that it abounds with ; and the noble Portuguese who inhabit it, our friends, and our beloved allies. Here's a field for our surplus manufactures to the latest posterity ; let us avail ourselves of it, and kick that blackguard Yankee trade to the devil I" " Amen," hi,ld John Bull ; and, overlooking the trifling circumstance, that it was inhabited by only half a million of people, and these the moet poor, pitiful, bigot- ted, priest-ridden devils under the sun, he did avail himself of it, and can now calculate the value of the avail ! •'• /" My friend came from Belfast, according to promise, and brought two or three cotton spinners along with him. They looked at the cotton, and, giving their best advice, invited me to convoy them as far as Bailynahinch. Here we were met by our agent from Newry, and spent a very happy evening together. I got an account of the battle of Bailynahinch, and of the present state of Ireland, and next morning set out to Dundrum, distant nine miles. ' "rl i^ There was neither horse nor chaise to be hired here ; so I wa^ obliged to walk. Learning that there were some medicinal springs by the way, I went about two miles out of the direct road to visit them. Before 1 had got that length, a very severe rain came on,aDd I was glad to take shelter in a little wretched cabin beside the springs. The old woman was kind to an excess, brought me a dram of whis- IRIIANO. 247 l^ey and regretted that the accomodation was so poor. After I had warmed and dried myself a little, , she looked out, and pro- nounced that it would rain all day. She then asked, whether I had ever heard of Mr. Fox, and, upon being answered in the af- firmative, she put a few more c,ue:;tions, to learn whether I ap- proved of Mr. Fox's sent.'nients. 1 could not divine the meaning of this, and was pondering the subject in my mind, when a young boy in livery called at the house, and told me the counsellor sent his compliments, and requested I would call npon him, as he wished to see me. I was surprised, and was going to ask the old woman who the counsellor was ; but she sealed my lips by telling me, just to step up to the counsellor's, and it would be all ex- plained to me. I obeyed, and followed the messenger. " And who is the counsellor, my young fellow ?" said I, as we walked towards the house. " He is counsellor Trotter, sir," said the boy. "What," said I, " the same that was private secretary to Mr, Fox ?" " Yes," said the boy. This accounted for the conduct of the old woman; and I shall ever remember her with gratitude, for being the means of introducing me to the bosom friend and biographer of Charles James Fox. The counsellor and I soon got intimately acquainted. I answer- ed all his questions concerning America, and he gave me a great deal of information regarding Mr. Fox's private life, including an account of his journey to France, in which Mr. Trotter accom- panied him, and of his death, at which he '.*as present I was delighted with his conversation, and the day, as if determined to prolong it, continuing very stormy, I availed myself of his hospi- table offer, and staid all night. Next morning early, I set out for Dundrum. During my stay at this place, I received letters announcing the an-ival of one my partners from Savannah, and stating that I must hold myself in readiness to return to America. I was sick of my present situation, and longed to be home; so, inviting my partner to come and take charge of the cargo, 1 continued ship- ping it to Liverpool with all possible despatch. My partner arriv- ed just as we were shipping the last of the cargo ; and I consigned the remaining business to his charge, and made the best of my *ay to Glasgow. He attended the cargo to Liverpool, where it found a market at a little more than what was sufficient to pay Hie expense". Had it arrived safe, it would have yielded a clci r m m. 1 * W- 1^1 lui ' (^ kR ijjggmM 'i «Wvr, ,' ,■■■ "^ !''!^ ;' CHAPTER LIU. ' ' GfasgcxVi — Edinburgh) — Liverpool^ — Manahester, — Leedsy — Isot- tinghaniy — London, kSOON after my return from Ireland, I was highly gratified with the account of Mr. Erskine's arrangement with the United StateSj and the removal of the non*intercourse; which was followed by a removal of the orders in council in Britain : but the hope induced by these circumstances was of short duration. Two days had not elapsed before meetings of the shipping interest were held, and the ministry were assailed with most deplorable tales concerning the loss of their trade. One set of them had the audacity, indeed, to set up tlie pica that if the Americans were allowed a free trade, ft would deprive the British shipping interest of the carrying trade to Holland. To Holland ! Yes, to Holland ! — a country with which the nation was at war ; and to trade with which was declared to be high treason by the laws of the land ! A cabinet council was held, at which it is said Mr. Canning, the secretary for foreign affairs, took a most active part, and strenuous- ly supported the principle that Mr. Erskine's arrangement should be ratified ; but a certain elevated personage took umbrage at some I expressions in the papers, and would not agree ! and the orders in council were re-enacted in a new form, called a blockade. Thus were the valuable manufactures of the country sacrificed to the whim of an individual, and the mei*cantile cupidity of a shipping interest. The public will be able to form a pretty correct judgment as t» I what degree of knowledge in political economy was possessed by the men to whom was confided the management of the afiiiirsofa great commercial nation, by adyerting to the following fuct^: It was estimated by Mr. Pitt that the profits of the *' -f nation arising from manufactures amounted to £. 14,100,(1 From the merchant shipping and small craft * . jf, 1,000,000 1 The hands employed in manufactures were esti- ;. ., mated at .«. ,,-iH- -■-,„ ,. - .\...i .','.• ... ', '• 1,680,OCO| (.'! ^.i;^ KNGLAND. 251 £. 7,000,000 ■ fi : '.r.r.'ji'l 675,000 20,000 Seamen in the merchant service at ^ ■ 155,000 The income arising from manufactures destined for the united States The bands employed in manufactures for the U- nited States , .; And 1 presume that the hands employed in th^ whole trade with the enemies of the country do uot exceed And yet a fair, honourable, and safe trade, to a great extent, with a friendly neutral, has been sacrificed to a poor, pitiful, limited, dis- honourable, and precarious commerce, subject to the regulation of the arch-enemy of the country. Could that enemy have managed the matter with more advantage to his views? I now calculated that the American trade was at an end, and im- mediately decided to set out for that country to inquire into the state ofour property there, and make the best arrangement regarding it that circumstances might point out. Before taking my passage for America, it was necessary to make a very extended tour in Bri- tain; and though it was so rapid as to be almost barren of incident or observation, yet I shall state the outlines, so as to continue the chain of connexion with the other parts of these travels. I set out from Glasgow on the 1st of August, 1809, and travelled hy the coach to Edinburgh. From thence I crossed the Forth to Kirkaldy, Cupar, and Dundee, and returned to Edinburgh. On die 6th, I left Edinburgh in the mail coach for Carlisle. We passed through Dalkeith, Selkirk and Langholm. A great part of the journey was in the night, and the weather was very rainy/ The soil appeared pretty good to Dalkeith, which is a handsome little town, nine miles from Eldinburgh, with the seat of the duke of Buccleugh in the neighbourhood. The soil continues good a considerable way beyond Dalkeith, after which the country is poor I and luliy ; but it answers well for pasture, and the people keep large flocks of sheep. I reached Carlisle at 6 o*clock, and continued my journey to Li- verpool, where I arrived at 3 o'clock next morninii. , •'st ^ In the afternoon 1 left Liverpool for Manchester, and continued I n>y journey to Halifax and Leeds, and thence through a fertile country eight miles, to Wakefield, a neat town, having extensive ' [•nannfactures of woollens, particularly stuffs. From Wakefield to Sheflield is 24 miles, through a rich, well 1 N ~M m 'inpjl^'' i^K^ ^''1^4'^^ ■ . Jf -A "JJlfi \\k3tKi^Bm QWniw&KB'Ki ■1 wm rl^l thf^ TRAV£L« IH cnHivatcd country ; and at Sheffield are the greatest manufactorici of edge-tools in England. The master 'Cutlers are here 600 in nuns ber, and the quantity and variety of work that is produced is in* mense. America is a great and important market for Sheffield goodi. On the morning of the 15lh of August, at one o'clock, I left Shef- field for Nottingham, distant 38 milcg. Of the country I could see nothing till 1 was near Nottuigham, and there it is fertile and well improved. ,, , . :.,v ,. Nottingham is situated on the steep ascent of u rock, overlook- ^iig the river Trent, and a vast range of adjoining meadows. It \i A large, populous, and pretty handsome town, having the streets well pa^ed, and a good market-place : it is a pt'incipal seat of the manu- facture of cotton and silk hosiery, and lace; and sends annually a vast quantity of goods to America. There is a castle situated on a high part of the eminence,^ which ha& a fine .effect wh^ii viewed at a distance, -r - -^" :• * *■ '--■ •• • Here I took a passage by the mail coach for London ; and setting out at nine o'clock in the morning, we passed through Norman^ Melton, Mov'bray, Oakham, Uppingham, Koekinghotn, Harbo- rough, Kettering, Wellingborough, Harold, Bedford, Shelford^ Hitchin, Hatfield, Barnet, and Highgate, And reached LondoAj distant from Nottingham 124i miles, at $ o'clock next morning. My business in London waft soon settled, and I devoted a day to sec my friends; but I was too much hurried to go to any ofth^ pablic places with which tlie city abounds, except Vauxhall Gar- dens. This place is considered a great curiosity j and in all my for* mer visits to London 1 had never Imd an oppcnrtunity of seeing it. I bad been out of town dining with a friend^ and hurried to the Lori* don eofibe^house to go to th6 gardens. Just as I arrived I found a Scotsman from Georgia At his glass of win^ : he invited me to par- tmke ofit ) but I declined it,- telling him that I was in a t^urry to goto Vauxhall; hie finished his wine, aiKl agreed to aceoinpahy me. It was the duke of York's birth-night, he told me, and there would be scmie extra amusemients. As we travelled towai^ds the gardens I perceived that my friend had taken a glass too much^ and it began t6 operate pretty vehemently to the prejudice of the English people. I did not r^pnrd this when by ourselves ; but I admonished him to be more circumspect in his cenduet and expresaicMM when we i^onid reach the garden, which he readily asis^ited to* .. ^--i; . On our arrival, 1 was delighted vtith th^e vast variety arid brilK- EKOLAVD. 25} ancy of the lamps, and the immense concourse of people. An or- chestra was in the middle* and we had some vocal and instrumental music; but as I never admired English music, I pass it over. In a short time my friend proposed at» adjoiirnntent to a tcht, where we might have something to drink : he called for a bowl of arrack nuncfa) and seeing sortie company pass, he invited two of them to take seats b^ide u«j and n shnrc of our fjtre. "While we were thui gitasted, tht fi^e-works wefe anilounced, and wishing to see the whole economy of these f^ttrdctis, 1 went to view them. They were iplendidi On my return I found my friend had got a second bowl of arrack ; aiid observing two of three men in the highliind dress, he invited them to join us, and ordered a third bowl. While wc were tihiis erigiiged, a band of music, overhead, struck up Rathe- iDurebe's Rant, and a ring being formed among' the spectators, atmmbei'of g^utlelmen aftd ladiei^ danced Scots reels. This gave hiy friend, who was a great Scotsrfian, fresh animation, and he be- gan to flourish ihr^y, arid drttw comparisons between his country- men atid the Efiglish that I did not at all like, and proposed that ww-strtet ruttn^rS, 8tc. &c. I at last succeeded in getting hiiti out of durance tile, attd we made the best of our way to the London boflee-hous^e, which we reached at 3 o'clock in the mornirtg ; and here I madfe a VOW that I would never after accom- pany a Scotsman to Vauxhall gardeili, unless I previously knew that he had so far drvEsted himself of national prejudice as to pay ah wjiiixl rtspcet to Englishmen Ski to those of his own country. itf '\.v,r , » $■ , j\ ^ J, t ^ 254 TRAVKLS IK V • CHAPTER LIV. !' I Lomlorii — Oxford^ — Birmingham^ — Shre-xshtirt/, — Liverpool. X LEFT London on the evening of the 18th of August, by the mail coach, and travelling all night, passed through Uxbridac, Stockton, and Oxford, where is the celebrated university ; but 1 could see nothing of it at the hour we passed. We continued our course through Woodstock, Shipton, and Stratford ; and at ]0 o'clock on the 1 9th we arrived at Birmingham, distant from Lon- don 116 miles. Birmingham is situated in the middle of a fertile and populous country, and is, in point of population, the fourth town in England, its inlmbitants amounting to 73,670. Part of the the town lies low, and the houses arc mean and unsightly ; but a considerable por- tion is elevated, and abounds with handsome houses. The hard- ware manufactures of Birmingham are unrivalled, and vast quanti- titles of goods of all descriptions have been made up annually for the American market. The works of Bokon and Watt arc at So* 1m>, inthis neighbourhood, and are in a state of organization pro- bably superior to any other in the world. It is calculated that since the introduction of their improved steam engine, the labour saved by it ulone, in Britain, amounts to 20 millions sterling tinnually. The trade of Birmingham is greatly facilitated by canal naviga- tion, which is here very complete ; affording a water eommuni- cation to London, Hull, Liverpool, and Brbtol, and througliout the whole interior .of the country. From Birmingham I travelled to Shrewsbury, in company with a Mr. James, a civil engineer, who resides in Warwickshire ; and as the country through which we passed abounded with mines of coal, iron, and beds of lime- stone, I derived a good deal of information from him. He stated that the yearly income arisng from the mines, in the counties of Warwick and Stafford, was incredible, and the number of hands employed in the bowels of the earth was immense. The business was remarkably well systematized) he observed, and was highly conducive to the progress of knowledge and liberality of sentiment, Even the minds of the common workmen were affected by a view of the grand operations of nature in the heart of the earth, and they had a degree of intelligence, and a spirit of independence) INCLANO. 255 I to- qtilte different from the workmen in the manufacturing towns. found this gentleman's company very agreeable, in a journey aether of 46 miles, when we arrived at Shrewsbury. Shrewsbury is situated on the river Severn, and is a place of considerable trade, but the streets are narrow, and it exhibits no very handsome appearance. Being in one of the counties adjoin- ing Wales, it is well calculated for the woollen trade, and a con- siderable portion of its manufactures arc calculated for the Ameri- can market, particularly plains and flannels. On Monday, the 21st of August, I left Shrewsbury jit five o'clock, by the stage, and passed through Ellesmcrc, and Wrex- ham, to Chester, at wliich we dineJ the vessel; for it was nearly as dark aH pitch, and we had \> go about throe miles up the river. I did not wish to tolk inurN, for fear that my .speech "would bewray me," and, as good luck would have it, 1 did not need, for the very first ship we hailed was the Pacific. I paid the Irishmen for th«ir trouble, and we went on board. As they were starting from the vessel, 1 heard one soy, " Faith, Pat, I believe he is a Scotsman after aM " " Well, well, it docs not >igiiify," says the other, " what he i» ; he has done the fair thlnff by us, any how." " Tut," said I, "arc we not all rdations?' SU'rne4 U On the morning of the 3d of September, the ship got under weigh, at 3 o'clock, and the wind being fair, we were round the rock by 5; and at 6, discharged the pilot. The breeze continu. ed from the north-east, and we had a fine run. At 7 o'clock, we were up with the point of Ayr ; at 10, at Grcot Ormshead ; at 12 we passed Skerries-light, and shaped dur course to the south-west, through St. George's channel. A vast number of ships come out of the river along with us, but we hod lost sight of them all, ex- cept the John Bull, a fine English ship ; she kept in sight of us ail the way out of the channel, although the Pacific considerably outsailed her. - '- ' ; ' ; We passed Cape Clear on the 5th, after which we had a series of west and north-west winds, till the ISth, by which time we were nearly up with the Western Islands. The wind then shifted to the south-west, and continued till the 1 9th, when it again shifted to north-west, and it continued to chop round from south-west to north-west, almost incessantly ; but as the Pacific sailed remaik- ably well by the wind, we made tolerable progress, and by the S^th, we were nearly up with the Banks of Newfoundland. Here a phenomenon happened, which 1 had never before observed at sea. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we had a fine steady breeze, to which we were carrying all sail, and the ship was running through the water at the rate of eight miles an hour ; when, all of a sudden, sho ran out of the breeze, and was becalmed in an instant. Tlie impulse Continued for some little time, and carried her through the nutt r probably about half a mile ; at which distance we could 33 .4:i?na''«i I m. 258 TRAVELS ON perceive that the breeze we had left was blowing as strong as ever. It is said that ships are sometimes situated in this way on some parts of the coast of Africa, where the calms are frequent and of long duration ; and often accompanied by tremendous storiii!> of thunder and lightning. By the 25th, we appeared to be on the Banks of Newfoundland. The weather was foggy, and the ther- mometer, which, the day before, had been at 72°, fell to 56»' We sounded, but found no bottom ; indeed we were nearly at the south point, where the water is very deep. On my former passage, I made some remarks on the formation of these banks, which my present observations tended to corroborate. I had heard a great deal of the fisheries on them; but, notwithstanding I had crossed them twice, 1 never saw any thing of the fishing vessels, nor did we take any fish. This great bank is about 330 miles in length, from south to north, and about 75 in breadth, from east to west. The depth of water on it, is from 15 to 60 fathoms. The fishery commences about the 10th of May, and continues till the end of September. The cod is cured in two ways ; one by drying them, the other by putting them up in pickle. The fisheries are computed to yield upwartis of j£.300,000 sterling, annually, for the supply of the Catholic countries alone; and such is the immense supply of fish, that, notwithstanding the annual drain, there is no sensible dim!* nution. After leaving the banks, we had a series of west and nortli-west winds, which sent us beyond the Gulf Stream, and as far to the southward as the latitude of 37° 30', where we found the weather very warm, the thermometer rising to 78° and 80°. The weather was clear and fine, and the moon being in a fa- vourable position, we had lunar observations on diflfercnt morn- ings. The result we found to be very correct ; a proof of the great importance of the application of astronomy to one of the most useful arts. The wind shifted back again to the southward, and we bore a- way to the north-west, until the Cth of October, when we tookii fair wind, which carried us to the Jersey shore on the 8tli, 40 miles south of the light-houser We had a southerly wind, and were running to the northward, and would soon have made San- dy Hook, but night came on, and we were deceived by a light, which we mistook for a light-house ; in consequence of which, we y commences THE ATLANTIC OCRAN. 259 lay to for the night. Next morning, at day-break, we set sail, and soon described'the high lands, and afterwards the light-house ; and between 2 and 3 o'clock in the afternoon we received a pilot. We flocked round the pilot to learn the news, and were inform- ed, that the non-intercourse was ugain enforced by proclamation ; and that the American government were very much dissatisfied with the British for not executing Mr. Erskine's treaty. On this subject, however, I soon found that there was a considerable dif- ference of opinion ; indeed, some of the American newspapers, which we perused, justified the British government in every step, condemning that of America and Mr. Erskine ; and one of our company, an American citizen too, openly avowed that he could have no confidence in the governnient, unless there was a king at the head of it : even Mr. Jefferson, he believed, would have acted a much better part, had he been king of America. The passengers were upon the whole agreeable, and captain Staunton was one of the most obliging shipmasters I have ever boen at sea with. He was well provided in a mate and good sailors, and every thing on board the vessel was conducted with great propriety. The cabin was remarkably well furnished, and we fared sumptuously all the way. Having crossed the bar, we proceeded up the channel with a light but fair breeze, and at 5 o'clock passed the Narrows, and stood in for the quarantine ground. Here we were visited by Lang and Turner, editors of the New York Gazette, who by thei* indefatigable attention to the shipping trade of the port of New York, have deserved well of their country, and have been amply rewarded by a very respectable patronage and support to their paper. Connected with this establishment is that of the JSIcrcantile Ad- vertiser, the editors of which pay one half of the expense of pro- curing the shipping intelligence, and, of course, receive the same information as the Gazette; and so attentive are the parties to the business, that Mr. Lang has a house at the quarantine ground, where he resides with his family during the summer, and speaks every vessc' that comes into port. By this means the shipping in- telligence in the^e two papers is early nnil authentic, and they are the most respectable mercant ile registers in New York. We were only a few minutes here when the health oHicer came on board, who, finding all well, gave us a bill of health, and we >' pM ?60 TRAVELS IN set sail up the bay, and landed at the wharf at 8 o'clock. I im, mediately waited upon my friends, Mr. and Mrs, Stewart, from whom I had, as before, a friendly welcome. , ;!!■ t CHAPTER LVI. New York, — Philadelphia, — Savannah. I CONTINUED in New York until the 11th of November, when, having some business to attend to in Philadelphia, I set out for that city in the mail stage. We left New York at 1 o'clock in the afternoon, and next morning at 5 o'clock we reach- ed Philadelphia, distant 97 miles. My business here was in friendly hands, and I got it arrancred to my satisfaction in a short time, when I had a few days to spend with my friends. At the house where I lodged, a gentleman som^ times called to spend the evenings. My friend and he were tw of the most extensive and respectable merchants in Philadelphia, and, like myself, both were concerned in the British trade. We agreed in opinion as to the utility of this trade, but we differed regarding the cause of its interruption. I attributed it to what 1 considered the true cause, which will be readily inferred from the foregoing pages ; but my friends were inclined to attribute it to the hostility of the democratic party in America to foreign com- merce. Considering this idea incorrect, I opposed it, which led to a pretty long discussion, in which I had occasion to state the view I took of foreign commerce generally, and the importance of the relations between America and Britain. My friends assented to the correctness of my opinion, but insisted that it was so oppo- site to that of the democratic party, that, were I to draw it up, and send it to a democratic newspaper, it would not be inserted, Considering this a very good plan to bring the matter to the test, I drew up an essay, which received their approbation. It was sent to the Aurora, andj two days thereafter, niude its appearance in that paper.* ■ ' ' • '-. *' ' \ " ' " While I staid at Philadelphia, the negociations with the Brit- ish minister, Mr. Jackson, were broken off, and it clearly ap- peared to me, that nothing but the ascendancy of the whig party * See Appendix, No. IV. • GEORGIA. 26 L in Britain would prevent a war ; but from the intelligence which I received from Britain, public and private, I thought it extreme- ly probable that this ascendancy would soon take place; at any rate, I considered it would inevitably follow the : ppointment of the prince of Wales as regent, and that event was dail^ expected. I was tfuided by this view in my commercial arrangements, and took iTiy measures accordingly. From Pliiladclphia I returned to New York, and from thence went bv sea to Savannah, where J arrived on the 17th of Decem- ber, without meeting any adventure worth recording. 0;i my arrival iu Savannah, I found matters in a dreadful state. Tiie stock of goods was disassorted, and would not bring half the oii'iiial value ; and the other fimds', consisting chiefly ofoutstand- i!K/ debts, ifev-Tthey would be collected at all, it could only be done at a labour, expense, and loss of time, that would probably be greater than the ultimate value of them. A great many of them were in suit, and the courts of law were buspended, so that the recovery by that process was very tedious and uncertain. Our debtors amounted to the amazing number of 185, and they were so scattered over the land, that they occupied a space of nearly 200 miles square. Some landed property belonged to the con- cern, and some negroes, (a "^p des of commodity which I never wished to deal in,) and these had fallen in value. We had also a store, 220 miles in the interior of the country; but it held out no better prospect : while our American debts were large and urgent, a great portion of them custom-house bonds. I was absolutely sickened when I locked into the books, where I had nothing to contemplate but the wrecks of a ruined estate, and the fragments of it scattered to and fro throughout the land ; so that no time could be fixed for its being eventually wound up. However, there was nothing for it but to arm myself with resolution ; and, after three mouths most ardent application, I got it reduced to some sort of order, and, liaving made a new arrangement with my partn, V to carry on a conmiission business, while the old concern was winding u}>, I set out on a collecting tour, taking in my way the store up the country. A few of the observations which I made on my journey shall be communicated in the next chapter. ■^ ^■-■bl 'mi 26% TRAVELS IN CHAPTER LVII. f -I Savannah, — Louisville, — Greensburg, — Augusta. O N the 2(1 of April I left Savannah, on horseback, at 5 o'clock in the afternoon. A young gentleman in a chair accompanied mc, and we took the road to Louisville. The weather was warm and sultry. We travelled 18 miles through a low marshy countn-, abounding in thick woods, but having 'a thin population, to Powell's, and here we stopped for the night. About 11 o'clock, there was a thunder-gust to the south-east ; the wind shifted to the north-west, and the weather became suddenly cold. April 3d, we travelled through a wretched looking country 12 miles, to breakfast; and 12 miles further to dinner, part of the way through pine barrens. The country was now a little more elevated, but the soil poor and sandy, and so continued 20 miles, to Jones', where we stopped for the night. Jones has a thriving plantation, and a fine peach orchard. April ^tlij we travelled through a country nearly similar to that we passed yesterday, 14 miles, when, entering Burke county, we met with more improv.ements, and saw many fine peach orchards, and the trees being in blossom, formed a very agreeable contrast to the barren wastes around them. At 6 o'clock in the evening, we reached Louisville, 100 miles from Savannah. I found the seat of government had been removed to Milledgeville ; but my friend Dr. Powell still remained at this place ; and I passed a very agreeable evening with his family. The doctor was not at home, and I regretted much that I had not an opportunity of thanking him foi his kindness and attention when I was here before. Aprils. At half past 8 o'clock we set out for Sparta. A mile frotn Louisville, we passed a considerable stream called Rocky Comfort, where there are a number of mills ; and this being the boundary between the high and low country, the scenery now becomes more variegated. Five miles beyond this the road forks ; we took the right-hand road, but it was the wrong one, and led us six miles out of our way, through a barren country. Th» country improves towards the Ogeeche river, which we crossed at the Shoals, and here there are several important mills. The banks ol'the river are steep and rocky, and the soil in the neigh- Ih we crosseJ GBORGIA. 363 4 Ml bourhood is pretty fertile, producing wheat, corn, &c. After crossing the river, we passed over vast masses of rock, and, travel- line H miles, we reached Sparta, towards which the soil improves, and there is a pretty fertile country round it. * • ' Sparta is a small town, but until of late it had a very flourishing commerce, and a great deal of mercantile business was transacted in it. It has now, in consequence of the stoppage of foreign com- merce, suffered most severely. Many of the merchants, and co'intry people, cannot pay their debts; and the winding up of the business, through the medium of the courts of law, has pro- duced effects distressing to contemplate. I was informed that there was now no demand for British goods at all ; and all the people were clothing themselves in homespun. At Sparta I parteu v.Uh my young friend, who returned to Sa- vannah, and I went further up the country to Greensburg. Meet- ing with a countryman who kept a tavern about half-way, I avail- ed rayself of his company, and lodged at his house during the night. My fellow-traveller, who was very communicative, told me that the country in this district was healthy, and the lands generally good. The price of land uncleared, was from two to live dollars per acre. On reaching the house, T found his family i all busily employed in manufacturing, and they showed me a num- ! ber of the articles, which were very good, some of them handsome. i They told me that, besides supplying the family, they made a considerable quantity of goods for < ale. April 7. The morning being I dutiful, I started at day-light, ! and travelled through a very pleasant country, 13 miles, to Greens- burg. The soil is good, and abounds with a species of timber, called dog- woor, which bears a white flower, and being now in jiull blossom, the woods formed a most beautiful appearance. The [noith-west wind, which commenced on the 2d, contniued until now, and the vveather was healthy and delightful. Greensburg is a handsome town, containing about 200 inhabi- [tants, and is improving ; but the mercantile business is in a very ill state. The country is handsome round it, and the situation < elevated und healthy. At 12 o'clock, noon, I set out for Mount Vcrnojiy in the new purchase, where our country store was situated 22 miles from ^reonsburs^. Eight milc:» from Greensburg, through a pretty bod, but tliinly-scttlod country, is the Oconee rivur, and ihrue '^1 si.* '\ ' f; iL li '. J 264 TRAVELS IN miles beyond this, through a country nearly similar, is the Appa- lachy. These two rivers are very fine streams, and 1 passed both by boats. From the Appalachy to Mount Vernon, I travelled 11 miles in the new purchase, and I was really surprised to obane the number of settlements that had been made in the short space of four years. The greater part of the lots were disposed oi\ and I was hardly ever out of sight of a plantation. The surface of the country is agreeably uneven, abounding in springs and smaO rivulets, and, from the appearance of the people, I have no doubt but the country is very healthy. ^rih> iu •■ i :'i:'ii.ii, . I spent several days in this place, on one of which I went to Madison, the county-town, six miles from Mount Vernon. This was laid out only a year before, yet it is now a thriving place, having p court-house, a number of dweUing-houses, three taverns, and as many stores. On the 15th of April, I left this district, on my return to Greensburg, On my arrival there, I found the inhabitants in ii state of alarm. Advice had just been received, that a letter had been found in the state of Virginia, dated from Greensburg, stating that all was ready in Georgia, and recommending prompt measures to be pursued in executing the work in Virginia. It was presumed that the work alluded to was the assassination of the white people. The alarm being 'given, it had spread through the country in all directions ; and the people had adopted mcasurej of precaution. At this place the guards paraded the streets all nijjht. On the 16th, at 12 o'clock, I left Greensburg for Augusta, ac- companied by a doctor of medicine, a very intelligent gentleman, who lived 16 miles below Greensburg. While we travelled to- gether we had a good deal of conversation regarding the present alarm in the country, concerning which we made inquiry at all the settlements we passed, and of all the people we saw. ^Ve found that some of them were a good deal alarmed ; others con- sidered that there was no danger; and some ridiculed tlio wliolc as an idle tale. But they all thought there was a propriety in taking measures of precaution. I was satisfied, upon the whole, that the alarm was greater dian the danger; and that there never can be a successful organization of the black people against the whites, upon a large scale, i» Georgia; nor indeed in any part of the United States. A short GEORGIA. 265 glance at the subject may be useful, because I found that it was generally supposed in Britain, that the southern states would be eventually destroyed in this way. By the census of 1800, I find that all the slaves north of the state of Delaware^ amount to only 135,516; being such a small proportion to the white inhabitants, that they can have no influ> ence ; and as a gradual abolition is going on, the proportion in diminishing every year. In those states where slavery exists in full force, the relative num- bers, in ] 800, stood as in the following table : Free Persoiis. Slaves. Delaware 58,130 6,143 Maryland 24.1,985 107,707 Virginia 534,396 345,796 Kentucky 180,602 40,343 N. Carolina 334,807 133,296 S. Carolina 199,34-0 146,151 Georgia 102,989 59,699 Tennessee 92,018 13,584 1,744,267 852,699 From this table it appears that the free people outnumber the slaves about two to one ; and we cannot suppose that ever the pro- portion on the side of the slaves will be greater than it is now, more especially when we consider that all importation has ceased. Hence the mere physical strength is above two to one on the side of the white people ; and those who possess any degree of intel- ligence among the negroes are fully aware of this, and must know that any attempt at insurrection would end in tticir own destruction. It is only by men of intelligence among them. Heading an insurrec- tion, that *hey could have any chance at all. Uut, in the next place, the whole artificial strength of the country is in the hands of the white people ; and when we consider that a single despot, at the head of a band ot armed men, comparatively few, can rule a whole country with a rod of iron, we can calculate wbat elTect an attempt on the part of one third of a nation in a state of slavery, without arms, without ammunition, without eJucation, or the power of holding conversation with one another by writiiifj ; 3t 5^•l^.•r < ^ea TRAVELS IN we can calculate what effect an attempt on their part would have to destroy the other two thirds, who have every advantage that tU others want. It has been supposed that the slaves could organize a plan to as. sassinate the white people, and to perform the wiiolc in one niglt. The thin^ is impossible. No plan of this kind can be organized on a large scale without detection; and the power to organize suciu plan by the slaves in these states, is so limited as hardly to merit notice. Besides all this, there is probably hardly a family in the United States where there is not one or more of the slaves attached to them from some personal consideration. The women, in parti- cular, are a great many of them employed in the capacity of domes- tic servants, and some of them are as much in the confidence of their mistresses as ladie»' maids are in England ; others have nursed the children ; and the whole have less or more associated with the white children when young. These are all so many ties of affection, which but a small majority among the negroes, I believe, would be wil- ling to break in order to organize rebellion ; and it will be perceiv- ed that a single discovery, by one slave, leads to a detection ofa whole plot. But indeed it appears to me that the blacks are in general a good- natured, well disposed, peaceable people; and nothing but ill usage, so extreme as to drive them to a state of desperation, could ever bring about any general plan for the assassination of the white people. There may be particular local circumstances of revolt ; but none 1$ ever to be apprehended of a nature sufficient to endanger the safe- ty of the southern states, or of any one individual state. Having travelled 30 miles through a pretty pleasant country, I arrived in the evening at Washington, which is a pleasant little town, containing about 100 houses ; and the fields in its neighbour- hood arc in a high state of cultivation, April 17th. 1 left Washington at day-light, and at ten reached Ray's mills, a handsome settlement on a considerable stream of wa- ter. Having some little business to transact here, I stopped all day. 'Hie people in the Ikhisc where I lodged had a very fxiciibive ma- nufactory of homespun ; and they were all substantially clad in cot- ton cloth of their own manufacture, some of it elegant. On the 18th I travelled 16 miles, through a pretty good ooiintrv, to Columbia Court- House, a small place, handsomely situated, 'i2 miles west from Augusta, GEORGIA. 267 On the I9th I travelled through a country nearly similar to that I passed through the day betbre ; towards Augusta the soil is good, and the country improves in appearance, being in a high state of cultivation. I reached Augusta at twelve o'clock, and, being a place I always admired, 1 stopped here some days. One of my first calls was on my old friend the Major, with whom I travelled from New York to Boston, four years before ; and we fcpent a few hours together, in which we recounted our adventures on Long Island sound. The gentleman with whom I lodged having a taste for natural philosophy, chemistry, and mechanics, I had al- ways a rich intellectual feast on my return to my lodgings. I left Augusta on the 26th for Richmond springs, where I saw my old friend the poet, ond his sable mistress, with whom I lodged two days, and then passed over to Waynesborough, where being hospi- tably entertained a few days by some very respectable planters in that neighbourhood, I set out for Savannah on the Sd of May, in company with two very agreeable friends, and arrived on the 5th at noon. During this journey to the upper country, I made every inquiry that I could regarding the state of its commercial concerns, and I was satisfied that it had undergone a great revolution since I was in the country before. The staple commodity of the state is cotton, and it had so fallen in value as to cut ofFupwards of one third of the income of the country. It followed that the inhabitants must cur- tail their expenditure in proportion, I accordingly found that all tlie people in the interior of the country were clothed in homespun. In almost every family a cotton manufactory was to be seen, and in some instances they had introduced spinning upon a pretty large scale, by jennies. At a parade of the militia, at Augusta, I was told that out of 500 men only two were to be found who had a single article of British manufacture about them. It had become fashion- able every where to wear homespun ; and from the very substantial stuif the people were making, amd the agreeable employment it af- forded to the young women of the country, I was convinced that this trade would encrease, probably to nearly the total exclusion of British , by way of Charleston. '<• ■■' tA': Mi ■ S"' ^' m am TRAVELS IN CHAPTER LVIIl. Charlestun, — New Yorlf — Philadelphia^ — Statcn Island. On the 9th of June I left Savannal., with my old friend, captain Cooper, in the Delight. The weather was exceedingly sultry, mid we hatl a light southerly bree/x* down the river, but we were fiivour' ed by tlu tide, and got to sea before dark, when a fine breeze sprung up, and we reached Charleston light-house by day-light. At 8 o'clock, we landed in the city. Here I was invited to lodge with a friend, which was a fortunate circumstance, for I had been but a short time in the city wlicn I was seized with a fever; but by timely attention and good nursing I got clear of it in the course of a few days. During my stay here I went to see Sullivan's Island : in our way we passed the fortifications, where considerable repairs and .tl'ira. tions had taken place; and it was presumed the harbour was now in a very respectable state of defence. Sullivan's Island is an excel- lent summer retreat, and is open on all sides to the sea brtx /o, so that it is entirely free from every vestige of marsh or putrid cflliivia, and consequently from all epidemical sickness. On Sunday, the 17th June, I went on board the Eliza, captain Leslie, for New York. This was a very handsome vessel, r»r. ark- ably well found in every respect, and she was on this occasion crowd- ed with passengers, having no less than 24". On crossing the bar we put to sea with a north-east wind, which sent us a considerable way to the south of our course; and after being beat about with head winds for several days, we took a heavy gale from the south-east, which nearly put us ashore on Cape Look-out shoals. The gale subsided, but we had still head winds until the 26th, when near Cape Hatteras, we took a fair wind, which carried us into New York on the 30th. Nothing material occurred in this city until the 4th of July, wiien tlie anniversary of independence was celebrated with great splendor, and was equally attended to by both the political parties. The fe- deral procession consisted principally of the Washington and Ha- milton Societies, in number 700 or 800 ; that of the republicans was composed of the Tammany Society, Manhattan Society, and the dif- ferent trader' societies in the eity. The processions were conduct- *NEW YORK. 269 cil respectively to difforont churches, whero, after prnycr, the ilc- clgration of indepcrnlcucc was read, and an oration tlclivercd, ac- companied with several pieces of appropriate vocal and instrunipn- tul music. ' . Au outward display of great festivity was exhibited all over the citv, by firing guns, ringing bells, with military and other proces- sions ; and the evening was spent generally in a social manner, by different societies and private circles. In every jwirty they had a re- .rular series of 17 toasts, one lor each state, and a numl)er of volun- teer toa-'ts from the company. These toasts were very sentimental, anil may be considered as a very good barometer for discovering the particular political opinions of the party. Having no particular business in the city, I went to live a few weeks on Long Island, which is a delightful summer residence. During this time I took a jaunt as far as Jamaica, a pretty little vil- lage, V2, miles to the eastward of New York, and by the finest road 1 had yet seen in America. The .settlements by the way are very handsome, and some of the buildings are elegant. A number of ve- ry respectable inhabitants, some of whom are merchants of New York, reside in Jamaica; and it has a seminary for education, es- teemed one of the best in the state. The country round is very pleasant, and to the north is a ridge of hills from whence there is a very fine view of the adjacent country, and a considerable distance out at sea. Having spent.a day at this place, I returned in the e- vening by Newtown, a pleasant little village near East river. In the whole circuit I found the sides of the road clad with fruit-trees, and the crops of fruit very abundant. About this time I fell in with a gentleman from Scotland* who was in expectation of a considerable quantity of goods in the fall, and wc agreed to transact business together during that season, with a view of a more permanent connexion, if the trade continu- ed open. Having, previous to this, determined to remain in Americir, I had written to my family, and expected them early in jthefal;; and, in order to receive them, I took lodgings atthequa^ t rantiue ground, on Staten Island ; and having stationed my son in j our new lodgings, I accompanied two of our New York friends to [Philadelphia. We travelled by the mail stage, and were determined to be. I merry. One of our members, being a limb of the law, made some h'ery auiraatcd dissertations, legal, logical, moral and critical, to I !• • ,*!• % / "^J^.. '^ ^*^v '/ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 ■tt lii 12.2 ftlUt. u& Hiotographic Sdences Corporation ^ ^ 1.25 III ,.4 ^ ^ 6" ► 23 WIST MAIN STIIET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716) 872-4503 K<^ ^ 270 TnAVKLS IN the great edification of the company. A young Englishman mam". fcsted his national feelings, by assuring us of the great demand for Ilenglish goods at ome ; and expatiated on the unimportance of the American trade ; but some of us knew better. However, he was s pleasant coiDpanion, and joined in our amusements with much satisfaction. In the course of our journey, we encountered a stage full of pcoj)lc, some of whom, Ave were informed, had been at a camp meeting; and a preacher from New York, who had some tiniel)c. fore been interdicteil by the corporation from disturbing the ])caco of that city by his eccentricities, sat ill the front of the cuniage. A good many witticisms were passed on this circinnstance, juul on the nature of camp meetings, and the facility with which certain members of the community could accommodate themselves with partners, and soforth. This occasioned a good deal of laughter in both stages ; but the zealous manf retaining all his gravity, asiiurcd us there would be no laughter in hell. It was one of those quaint remarks which excites no novel idea ; but yet it produced much merriment, a proof that there is a time for all things under the snn; and assuredly serious allusions to the place just mentioned do not suit a stage-travelling audience. I laving arrived in Philadelphia without further accident than the loss of a hat, ^ remained in that fine city some days, and returned by the steam boat line. This being the first time I travelled by the steam boat, it furnish- ed much subject for remark. The extent of the works, the mag- nitude of the waters over which we had tc travel, the scenery on the land, the order and economy on board the boats and in the over-land stages, all excited my admiration ; and this being a route very much travelled, it may be gratifying to go a little into detail, by a short sketch of the journey. We went on board the steam boat, in the Deloware river, at 7 o'clbck in the morning. The boat immediately started from the wharf, and moved majestically through the water, at the rate of 7 miles an hour. As the boat was perfectly ^asy in lirr motion, I had a good opportunity of examining her works, and of observ- ing the application of them to produce motion in the boat. The I engine was constructed on Bolton and Watt's j)lan, and the jwwer was communicated through the medium of a walking beam of a peculiar construction, adapted to the boat, and from thence to stage full of en at a camp 5mc timel)c- ng the peace the carriage. iincc, anil on vhich certain jpiselvcs with if laugliter in avity, assured f those quaint oduced much under the sun; ntioned do not PENNSYLVANIA. 2? I wheels on each side, somethhig like mill wheels, which, by a rota- tory motion through the water, impelled the boat the contrary way, producing precisely the same effect as oars. The boat was suili- ciently capacious to carry 100 passengers, and was furnished with every requisite for boarding and lodging, that could be obtained in a good tavern. By this conveyance we travelled to Bordentown, a delightful liiuation, 30 miles from Philadelphia. Here we were accommo- Jatetl with stages, which conveyed us across Jersey, 36 miles, to New Brunswick, where we stopped all night. Next morning we set out at 6 o'clock, by another steam boat, for New York. This boat was much larger than that on the Delaware, and her steam works were somewhat different in the construction, but the principle was precisely the same. We sailed along the Rariton with great majesty, and arriving at Perth Amboy, we took in some passengers, when we took n course through a narrow arm of the sea, that runs between Staten Island and the Jersey shore. Having no particular business at New York till the fall goods would arrive, I landed at Staten Island, which I found to be a most agreeable place in the summer season. The quarantine ground is handsomely situated, on the east side of the island, on a small bay, about a mile and a half above the narrows. The land here rises boldly from the shore, and is perfectly healthy. A con- siderable piece of ground is enclosed for the health offices ; and the health oiRcer, and his assistant, reside within the enclosure* Con- ti(;uous to it an officer of the the customs resides ; and in the neighbourhood area number of respectable families. Mr. Lang, for- merly mentioned, anil his family, reside here in the summer season. There was, upon the whole, a very social circle at this place, em- bellished by a number of handsome young ladies; and we had many aiireeable partici. Oin- society was often augmented by visitors liom New York, and strangers arriving at the quari^ntine ground ; [10 diat the variety of sentiment among us, religious and political, as in proportion to our numbers; biu it never interfered with our iul harmony. Religion and politics are two of the most im- rtant concerns of mankind; — the one embracing his interests low, and the other hereafter; and in proportion as people feel lively interest in both, they will become the topics of cQnversa- iion. « Out of the abundance of the heart the mouth speaketh." utthoy are subjects which admit of a great variety of sentiment^ ) 27^ TnAVELS IN and on which mankind will never think alike. Hence it is of im. portnncc that thry be discussed temperately, and with deference to the feelings of each other. One of the most important circum. stances in discussing them, is to avoid all personal abuse, more especially of public characters. In a popular government, no man can be appointetl to a public station, without having tlic voice of a majority in his favour, real or implied. To call him names, therefore, and to load him with all manner of reproaches, is jun to abuse, at second hand, those who have appointed him, of whom your political antagonist may be one. It is often so viewed, and anger and strife ensue; and thus, a discussion that, properly managed, might be conducive to promote knowletlge and informs. tion, becomes often the means of raising the whirlwind of passiou, and of destroying the peace of society. CHAPTER LIX. New Yorky — Comma- cial Viascs. Jl HE expected goods arrived early in the fall, and in greater quantity than was at first calculated on, and there was a very good fall trade, so that I was pretty busily employed in New York, till the month of November, when I was delighted by the safe arrival of my family. I was now most anxious to settle in New York, in a mercantile capacity, and there seemed to be a considerable proba- bility that 1 would be able to accomplish that object. The nego- ciations between Am«rica and Britain were continued, nnd had been so long protracted, that I was inclined to think all interrup- tions would be done away. Indeed the American government I placed her foreign relations on a footing by which the Englitli ministry could get an ascendancy over France on terms so easy. that, shaken as my confidence in them was, I could not ima|rinc but that they would embrace it. America had opened licr tradd to both belligerents, accompanied by a declaration, that on m\ one of them withdrawing their unjust edicts, so far as they inter- fered with her neutrality, she would imn>cdiately enforce the non- intercourse act against the other. Both parties had exprcsscil tiid utmost good-will towards America, and asserted that the eilictil weie only meant to annoy the trade of each other; alleging tlutl MIW YORK. 273 America could not reasonably complain that it accidctttaUif inter- fered with her trade, as she had not set up the proper resistance, it was impossible that America could set up a resititance to both, in any other way than by withdrawing from the ocean altogether, which was a resistance that might be made, and had been made for a time; but it could not be endured for ever. It was a sacrifice without an object ; she could in that case have no trade. 8hc tbercforc came to the resolution of resisting any one of them, on getting the freedom of the seas restored, as far as it had been ob- structed, by the other. How eagerly then would a wise ministry have seized this opportunity of cultivating the friendship of a great and growing nation, whose trade is of such importance to Britain ; and of putting their deadly enemy in the wrung in the face of the whole world ! But the sincerity of the British ministry was now brought to the test, and Bonaparte, as usual, triumphed over them and the nation. The French minister, Champagny, intimated to the American minister at Paris, that the decrees were withdrawn, in these terms : "The decrees of Berlin and Milan are revoked, and they will cease to be in force from the 1st of November next, it being understood that, in consequence of this declaration, the English shall, as they have declared they would, revoke their or- ders in council, and renounce the principles of blockade which they have attempted to establish, or that the United States, con- formably to the act of congress you have just communicated, shall cause their rights to be res|iected by the English." This was officially announced by the president's proclamation of the 2d of November; and, no corresponding act having taken place in England, the non-intercourse act wus put in force against that country ; and thus again were my coninierciul arrangements defeated. In the mean time I had kept up an intercourse with my partner in Savannah, and from a supposition that some business might be done between that port and New York, we tried the experiment by a small shipment from each ; but they were both unsuccessful, and I was satisfied that while the restrictions were continued, no beneficial trade could be carried on, at least by us, between these two ports. Indeed I was tired of the Savannah trade altogether, I and anxiously wished for an opportunity to get entirely clear of it. But matters did not yet appear entirely hopeless with Englond. llic president stated in his message to congress, that, " To a coni- 35 . t> '.r 274 TRAVELS IN tnuuication'from our minister at London of the revocation of the Berlin and Milan decrees, it was answered, that the British tyitm would be relincjuished as soon as the repeal of tl>e French decree should have actually taken effect, and the commerce of neutral natiotii liavc been restored to the condition in which it stood previously to the promulgation of those decrees^ This pledge, , although it does not necessarily import, does not exclude the intention ofrelin* quishing along with the orders in council, the practice of those novel blockade^;, which have a like effect of interrupting our fo- reign commerce. And this further justice to the United iStatesu the rather to be looked for, inasmuch as the blockade in question, being not more contrary to the established law of nations, than inconsistent with the rules of trade recognised by Great Britain liersclf, could have no legal basis, other than the plea of rctaliatiuu alleged as the basis of the orders in council." It was started in a subsequent part of the message, indeed, that. " On tl>e other important subjects depending between the United States and that government, no progress has been made from which an early and satisfactory result could be relied on ;" yet 1 considered there was still a ppbability of the trade being opened. 1 thought the ministry would not surely be so mad as to persevere in a system which went to preclude the valuable manufactures ot' the country from a market to the extent of ten or twelve niilloib sterling annually ; and I went on making my arrangements to act as an agent fur some British manufacturers, in which I had a pro- spect of excellent connexions. In following up my plan relative to this branch, I was naturally led to inquire into the state of the internal manufactures of the country, and I was astonished to observe the rapid progress which they had made in the course of a few years, and the groat extent to which they had risen. By the secretary of the treasury's report, which was only in part, it appeared, that " the following nuumfactures are carried on to an extent which may be considered adequate to the supply of the United States. , ■' i - v,- Wooden articles of every kind. Leather, and articles of leather. ^ , ,_ ^ Soap, and tallow candles. . , ^^ Spermaceti oil and candles* / Flaxseed oil. i .•'' ; ' KEW YORK. 275 Refined sugar. Coarse earthen ware. SnaflT, cliocolatc, hair-powder, and mustard. " TTic following branches are firmly established, supplying the .treatcr part of the consumption of the United States Iron, and articles of iron. Cotton, wool, flax, and hemp. Hats and straw bonnets. Paper, printing types, printed books, playing cards. Spirituous and malt lir|uors. Wax candles. « Progress has been made in the following branches. Paints and colours. Chemical preparations, and medicinal drugs. SalU Copper and brass. Japanned and plated ware. Queen's and other earthen ware. Glass ware, &c. &c. " Many other articles, on wiiicli no information has been re- ceived, are undoubtedly omitted." The report goes on to state the outlines of the information re- ceived on the respective branches, all of which is exceedingly im- portant ; but I shall only make a few extracts, relative to some of the most prominent article*. *• Cotton, Wooly and Flax, ^ < < ♦ cs are tar " The first cotton mill was erected in the state of Rhode I:^ hind, in the year 1791, another in the same state, in the yeajr 1795; and two more in the state of Massachussets, in the years 1803 and 1804. During the three succeeding years, ten more were erected in Rhode Island, and one in Connecticut, making idtogether 15 mills, erected before the year 1808, woi'king at that time about 8000 spindles, and producing about 300,000lbs. of yarn a-year. " Returns have been received of 87 mills, which were erected at the end of the year 1809; 62 of which (48 water and 14 horse mills) were in operation, and worked at that time 31,000 spindles. The other 25 will be all in operation in the course of this year, )^:^ * 876 TRAVELS IN and together with the former onc^t, (all of which are incrcaoin^ their machinery,) will, by tlie estimate received, work more than 80,000 spindles at the commencement of the year 181 1. " The capital required to carry on the manufacture on the bc»t terms is estimated at the rate of 100 dollars per spindle; but itii believed, that no more than at the rate of 60 dollars is gencrallv employed. Each spindle produces annually about 36 pounds uf yarn from l-iilbs. of cotton ; and the value of the yarn niuy be a- veragcd as worth 1 dollar 12^ cents per lb. Eight hundred spin- dles employ 40 persons, viz. 5 men, 35 women and children. " The increase of carding and spinning cotton by machincn, in establishments for that purpose, cxcluKively of that done in private familcs, has been fourfold during the last two years, and tenfold in three years. Thirty six of these mills, working 20,406 spindles, are situated within 30 miles of Providence. The remain* dcr are scattered all over the country. " Hosiery may be considered us almost exclusively a houselio!il manufacture. That of Germantown has declined, and it dm not appear to have been attempted on a large scale in other places. There are, however, some exceptions ; and it is stated, that the island of Martha's Vineyard exports annually 9000 pair of stock- ings. " But by flir the greater part of the goods made of cotton, flax, and wool, are manufactured in private families, mostly fur their own use, ond partly for sale. They consist principally of coarse cloth, flannel, cotton stuffs, and stripes of every description, linen, and mixtures of wool with flax and cotton. The information re- ceived from every state, and from more than 60 different places, concurs in establishing the fact of an extraordinary increase during the last two years, and in rendering it probable, that about two* thirds of the clothing, and house and table linen of the inhabi- tants of the Unital States, who do not reside in seaports, is made in this way. " In the eastern and middle states, carding machines, worked by water, are every where established, and they are rapidly ex- tending southwardly and westwardly. Jennies, other family spin- ning machines, and flying shuttles, are also introduc.xl in many places ; and as many fulling mills are erected as are required for finishing all the cloth that is woven in private families. " The value of the goods made of cotton, wool, and flax, which NRW YOnKt 277 arc annually manufactured in the United States, is calculated to (>xccched. One at Philadelphia, with a capital of 1 1 ,000 dollars, manufactures a species similar to that made ill Staffordshire, in England ; and the others in Chester coun- ty, in Pennsylvania, in New Jersey, and on the Ohio, make va- rious kinds of queen's- ware. '' Information has been obtained of 10 glass manufactories, which employ about HO glass-blowers, and make annually 27}000 l)oxe8 of window glass, containing each 100 square feet of glass. Some of these manufactories make also green bottles and other wares ; and two works, employing together 6 glass-blowers, have been lately erected at Pittsburg, and make decanters, ; Mblcra^ and every other description of flint glass of a superior quality. " It is inferred, that the annual product of the American manu- factures exceeds 120,000,000 dollars; and it is not improbable that the raw material used, and the provisions and other articles consumed by the manufacturers, creates a home market for agri- cultural products not very inferior to that which arises from foreign demand. " The most prominent of the causes which have hitherto im- peded the progress of manufactures have been the abundance of iaiul, compared with the population, the high price of labour, and the want of capital. The superior attractions of (^ricultural pur- suits, the great extension of American commerce, during the late European wars, and the continuance of habits after the causes which produced them Lave ceased to exist, may also be cniment* r i*y A. * 'I 278 TRAVt.W IN ed. Several of these obsUclcs have, however, been removed nr lessened. The ciirapness of provisions had always, to n cirtaln extent, counterbnlnnccd the liigh price of manual labour; and thii is now, in many important branches, nearly supersedcil by ihc introduction of machinery. A great American capital lias JK-cn acquired durinc^ the last twenty 3'oars; and the injurious violntum of the neutral commerce of the United States, by forciufr jiuliistry and capital into other channels, have broken inveterate habits, and given a general impulse, to which must l>e ascribed the grout cii* crease of manufactures during the two last years." It would be tedious to enumerate the twentieth part of tlio in* formation, which came under my ob«rrvation in corroborotion of this report ; I shall, therefore, only condescend upon one >imports. In the county of New York, compre- hending the whole island, there were, in 1810, only three looms; the number in the stale was 33,068 ; and the general summary of the manufactures, in the state, was as follows : Valuft 33,068 yards cloth 9,099,703 dol. 5,002,891 Looms Tan works Distilleries Breweries ■ Fulling mills Paper mills Hat factories Glass worics Powder nnlb Repe walks Sugar houses Oil mUIs Blast furnaces Air liimaces Cat-nail factories Forges *•* • Trip hammers Rolling and slit ting mills CardlDg machines 867 leather 591 spirit} 42 beer 427 enhanced value of cloth S8 paper 124 bats 6 ' glass (besides bottles) 9 powder 18 ropes 10 sugar US oil • 11 iron wares lt>" ' do. 44 nails ' ';■ 4%' iron 49 do. 1 do. 1,299,542 1,685,794 340,765 679,126 233,268 249,035 716,820 10,040 538,000 420,706 49,288 205,300 156,720 276,932 185,240 40,000 33,120 mercc wou 41S (value in cloth stated above) rcmovod nr to n cirtnin 3ur ; and tliii »c(lc(l by ilic titnl lins Ik-ch iuud violation cinp; industry ;c habits, and the great en- [irt of tlic in« •roboratioii of n one nu»\t rocrcss of p a- >wn by i.io>o ork, compre- three loomj; il summary of Value* ^ol. 5,002,891 1,299,542 1,685,794 340,765 679,126 233,268 249,035 716,820 10,040 538,000 420,706 49,28S 205,300 156,720 276,932 185,240 40,000 33,120 )ve) NSW TOKX. 279 Cotton factories 26 (value not ascertained) Wooiica factories (ditto) Salt 525,000 bukhcls 147,000 Silk ^240 skeins Artifice in Stnto Prison 60,000 Tile iiulc uiuuutuctures may be estimated above 17 millions of dollars, exclusive of tiunr, a^hes, maple sugar, cyder, &c. The aggregate uf the manufactures of Pennsylvania, I found to exceed 28 millions of dollars; and they appeared every where to be tippruucliin<; nearly to a supply of the internal doniund, while those of Rhode Island exceeded it, and aiTordcd a great surplus lor exportation. From these and several other circumstances which came under my review, I was led to believe that the trade to Britain, on which I had fixed my dependence, would be now so much curtailed, that it would be precarious: but 1 had been long in it ; my habits were formed to it ; and 1 was unwilling to relinquish it, w hilc there was a ray of hope left. At last that ray of ho{ie was dissipated. The prince of Wales was appointed regent ; but no new ministry was formed, nor any measure adopted to restore harmony between the two countries : — " I therefore calculated that internal manul'actures and com- merce would, in all probability, be substituted for foreign com- merce," and I resolved to sha])e my course acordiugly. CHAPTER LX. Kevo York, — Philadelphia^ — Baltimore^ — Washington, Having now to fix on a new line of life, it was the subject of much reflection and study to find out which would be tne beat; and tlie result was that my affections tended most towards agriculturcw 1 had been bred to this branch in my youth ; I had always admired I it; but 1 saw that in my own country I never could rise to complete I uidepcndence in it ; I could never expect to farm my own property. When therefore a chance turned up which presentied a feir prospect for success in the commercial world, I gladly embraced it ; I was I 'or a considerable while successful in it beyond my most sanguiao "pcctations ; but the times became at length so oiUra^ecMly singii- «80 TRAVBU IM lar thnt my wliole plant were di«concertod, ami I waa wofully diV nppuinted. I had been no long out ot'thc habit ol' agricultural pur. ■uit« that I foresaw a difficulty in renuming them, and tlure wtrr Rcveral diflicultie^ to encounter otherwise; but, on the otiicr liand 1 knew that I could, by my own labour alone, support my tiimilT nn five acrott of land, if neceMary ; ho that we nevor could in tlut branch be absolutely destitute : and from the ease with which Jind can be procured in thiii country, I thought I could be more iiidr I>endcndcnl in it than any other. I had travelled a ^roat detd in America, but, m my pursuits tvcn comnicreinl, my trnvcU were confined to the commercial (liitricts. In an agricultural point of view, I was led to believe, from all 1 hid heard, that the western country prenentcd the fmest field ; and at any rate it seemeil to be of consetjuence to me to examine it, unic* count of the low price of land. As 1 had always a strong desire to join objects of public iitilitv with my private purtuits; it now occurred that I might arransei plan so as to give the public correct and authentic information r^ garding a section of the country but imperfectly known, altliou:;ii of great importance ; and from a review of the information I had already collected, I thought it might be u desideratum in literature to publish my travels in the Atlantic states and Britain, at the !« induced to wiiit u few dnys for hisi ited it. 'i'he po|)ulntiun had encieasod in ten years from 81,000 to 111/210. Many ini|>ortnnt inanufuctureii htd been eHtahliiihed ; and the fine arts hiulflonriiihed in an emi- nent (iti^ree. Connected with this In^t subject, I waH happy to find that the artihts had recently formed themselves into a society, un- der the title of the Society of Artists of the Umiteu States ; and tlieir institution is formed on such principlets and is in such (v (rain of ninnai^cmentf as promises to be highly useful to the pro^resn of the arts in this country. A short account of this infant society cannut tail to be interesting. in the month of Muy« 1810, a number of artists and amntours annciated together at Philadttlphia, and announced their inten- tion of forming this institution, from a conviction that it was ro quiossible the means of acquiring a knowledge of tlic arts ; but, above all, to endeavour to remove existing prejudices, and to give a character to t!ie fine arts ill the United States. " An opinion has prevailed, and in some degree exists at pre- •«nt, that tliis country is too young to foster the arts, and that our 36 '1 ;!t .* ,4'-»J 262 TRAWLS IN Irn m form of government is not very favourable to promote them ; tlui there are not suiticient materials to enable the student to pursue Im Ktudies to advantage; and that there is neither taste to appreciate merit, nor a disposition to reward it. "These opinions have been promulgated without due examini. tion. We possess a va^t extent of territory, and variety of cli> mute ; affording not only all the comforts and convcniencies, but nearly all the luxuries of life. Chains of mountains, of amazing extent, run nearly parallel with the coast, and arc intersected at many places with magnificent rivers, forming a vast variety uf the most sublime and picturesque scenery in the 'vorld; and the«c be- ing diversified with populous cities, towns, villagcii, and elegant mansions, aflbrd an infinite source of materials for the landscape painter. " The rapid increase of population and of wealth, and the ap- plication of the latter to promote the improvement of our cities and public works, calls forth the talents of the architect, and insures a reward for his exertions. .. " To commemorate the American revolution, and to place in a conspicuous point of view those patriots and heroes, who fought and bled in their country's cause, belong equally to the pointer, the sculptor, and the engraver. ** The prosperity, and even existence of a republic, depends upon an ardent love of liberty and virtue ; and the fine arts, when properly directed, have a tendency, in a very eminent degree, to promote both. " The encouragement given to engraving within these few years, and the great improvement of that branch of the urt», is a convinc- ing proof that the American people are far from being destitute of taste Many works have lately issued from the American press, embellished with engravings equal, and some of them superior, to those of the same kind in Europe.* In particular, the American * As a proof of the advanced state of this branch of the fine arts, and its appL'cation u important commercial purposes, it may not be improper to notice, that an iiistiuitionlw lately been establisiied at Philadelphia, for engraving and printing banknotes, and other important papers, with a view to render them more diflicult of imitation. This ntt- blishment consists of an association of artist*,, of the lirst talents in the various parts of ornamental and writing engraving ; and is carried on under the firm of Murray, Draper, raiiman, & Co. In the ornamental part u£ the notes, they make use of steel dies, »• cciited with great mechanical accuracy, with vcLricb an impresuon, singularly beautiful PENNiYLVAXI> 2S3 Ornithology, by Alexander Wilson, challenges a competition with any work of the kind that has ever appeared ; and has receiv- «d the stamp of approbation from the best judges in Europe. The splendid success of that work in America, speaks volumes in fa- vour of American taste. " As the United States possess a most beautiful system of equal lavs, and hold out the right hand of fellowship to all the frit nds of rational freedom, they afford a safe retreat to such os may l)c forced from their native land, by the jealousy or tyranny of old govern- ments; and that bring along with them the arts and sciences, in return for the boon of protection which they receive in this hap- py country, which may be termed the strong hold of liberty. "The Society of Artists, looking up to their fellow-citizens for countenance and support, arc determined individually, and ns a body, to use every exertion to promote the prosperity, glory, and independence of their country." A constitution was drawn up and signed by about 60 members, and the society being invited to hold their meetings in the Pennsyl- vania Academy, this was accepted, and was found to be of great utility to the infant institution. In the coui*8e of six months, the society consisted of upwards of 100 members, when it was resolved to divide the artists into two classes, denominated " Fellows of the society," and " Associate Artists ;" and the general management was vested in a president, four vice-presidents, a secretary, and treasurer, llie vice-presi- dents to be artists of the class of fellows, and to be chosen one each from the following branches of the arts : painting, sculpture, architecture, and engraving. is suraped upon the copper- plates. The notes engraved by the conipany are greatly ad- imrcdfor the beauty and elegance of Uie workmanship, and far surpass any thing I have "er seen in Europe. The institution has lieen in operation about two years, and has necuted engravings for 42 banks, none of which have been counterfeited. Indeed, it apptart to me, tliat there is no chance of any attennpt being made to counterfeit their MlM; for no attempt could be successful, unless executed by a combination of tiilent, tqual to what has been called into operation by this society ; and where that existk, He 0197 safely conclude that It will find a more honourable and a more profitable employ- iixnt in America, than coimterfeiting bank note*. Tb« company havs also devised a plan for tlie ornamental parts of ships' papers, «bidi has been submitted to tlie general government, and will probably be adopted ; in which ctK it will guard the American flag against prostitution, to the great joy, no ^""^ of the fraternity who are employed in London, Liverpool, and elsewhere, in the 'try honourable trade «f '• siinalali'i?" thipi paptrs. i vr %m 1) '■'*t.V ij 1 ■- "h 1^1 9B4t TRAVBLt IN An attempt was made to unite with the Aaademy <^ Fine Arts, so us to form but one society, but owing to some particular cIn cumsttmces it did not succeed ; and an arrangement was entered into otherwise, wliich will probably be equally beneficial in promote ing the objects of both. In January, 1811, the president of the United States was re^ quested to accept the title of patron, which he co»>plied with, highly approving of the principles of the institution, and offerisg it all the aid in his power. On the 6th of May, the fli^t annual exhibition was opened to the public, and consisted of more than 500 articles, above half of which were the ])roduction of American artists. The vast con- course of visitors, who thronged to see the exhibition, formed a striking proqf of its utility, and of the estimation in which it was held by the public. The receipts, during the six weeks tliat it was kept open, amounted to I860 dollars; and the receipts of (mother week having been appropriated to the relief of the saffer- crs by fire in Newburyport, amounted to 4' 10 dollars. When I vibited the exhibition, I was quite surprised to find th« arts in America in such a forward state. A great number of th* paintings, both portrait and landscape, were e<]ual to any thing I had ever seen in Europe; and the designs in architecture had s neatness and elegaiiccj which indicated a very correct public taste. There were a number of models of elegant workmanship; and the exhibition of prints bore ample testimony to the advanced state of engraving. Connected with this branch is that of drawinpf maps, of which an elegant" specimen was in the exhibition; and Philadelphia cm boust an artist in this line, probably inferior to none in the world. I was highly gratified to see the number and respectability of the visitors; particularly of the ladies, whose approbation aiid opplause was no small proof of the value of the institution, and must have been highly gratifying to the artists. Kvery person, who is acquainted with human nature, must be aware of the influence of intelligent women in polished society, I have never yet seen any object fail which met with tbieir ^pvoba.tioo< and support; and their approbation and support, on this o«ca«ion, was tomes convincing proof both of the utility and stability of the society. The terms of admissiua are 5 4^\\MSi of entr^, and 4> dollars ul \Kt '- 4'/ »*■ PENNSYLVANI\. JSj annual subscription, until 50 dollars be paid in all ; after whick the members are free for life. " ' ' • " If any thing is wanted to complete thia institution, I shoald think it is a library. A small additional sum from each of the mem- bfTj annually would secure that object ; and it is very probable tlwt it would meet with poblic encouragement by many donations gi'btfoks IJrom patriotic individuals, who wish well to the improve- ment of the mind among a cJtiss of people so useful in society as artists. I should imagine, too, that from the peculiar principles df the association, they would merit the notice of the legislature of a repnblican commonwealth. The society, from its nature, must be purely republican. Operative artists are nearly all on an equal foot- ing, and being, to use tlieir own expression, " the bees that make the honey," their combined power must be very considerable. Few of them, however, being rich, tiiis power must be chiefTy confined to the forwarding of the objects laid down in their inslitii- tion. These they can manage with propriety ; but to accommodate themselves widi appropriate buildings is probably beyond their power: hence, they must be in some measure dependent. A small degree of legislative aid might relieve them from this inconveni- ence, and I have no doubt that the legislature of Pennsylvania would, if properly applied to, readily afford it to a society who desorTc so well of their country. Mr. Latrobe being detained longer than was expected, I was obliged to set out for Washington alone ; but he favoured me with a letter of introduction, which answered every purpose. On the 28th of May, I took my passage on board the New- castle packet, and we set sail at 8 o'clock in the morning, with a very light wind. On getting round Gloucester Point, the breeze iacreased, but it was almost right ahead, and we had to tack trom side to side all the way down, which afforded us a fine view "ttlicbuuks of the Delaware, and, the country being in full ver- dure, they exhibited a very fine appearance. We reached Ncw- caiitle at 5 o'clock, and immediately got into a stago to cross the country. The stage took a difiiercnt road from that I had travel- led before. The country was low, but the soil was more rich and 1 better improved, In our way, we passed a good many hedges of I'iiwthorn, which were in a most luxuriant state, aiul gave the |kUs a fresh, verdant appearance. We arrived at Frenchtown ut 286 TRAVELS IN 9 o'clock) and immediately went on board the packet ; but the wind and tide were both against us, and we lay all night at tbe wharf. May 29, we had a thunder-gust during the night, and the wind shifted to the north-west, so that at 2 o'clock in the morning we set sail with a fair wind, and by the time I rose, at 6 o'clock, «e were nearly half way to Baltimore. The wind increased, and, as tlie packet sailed very fast, we reached Baltimore a little past 9 o'clock, in the morning. Baltimore had increased very much since my last visit : the in- habitants now amounted to 35,583. On the 30th, at 6 o'clock in the morning, I set out for Washing- ton by the mail stage. I observed no material difference in the country since I travelled through it before, but found that the road was much improved, and it will soon be in a very good stute. We arrived at Washington at 1 o'clock. My transactions there shall be narrated in the next chapter. t ' *■ CHAPTER LXI. IiUerview with Mr. Gallatin, — -joith the President^ — Return h , , New York. Soon after my arrival in Wasliington, I waitcti on ray fricml mentioned in my former visit. I found i>e had left the treasury department, and had become a merchant. He was equally atten- tive as before. I intimated the object of my journey, and, to facilitate it, he introduced me to a gentleman who was actjuaint- ed with the secretary of the treasury. This gentleman introduced me to Mr. Gallatin, to whom I delivered my letter of introduc- tion, and, after some general conversation, it was agreed that I should wait upon him next morning at 9 o'clock. As I knew that Mr. Gallatin was an accurate man of business I considered that it would be proper to commit the substance <" my inquiries to paper, and, on my return to my lodgings, I drew up the following queries. ° .I.IInJj i^ '/'i i-fi'^tltr,' 'J •/•'•.''.' •■*' THB DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 287 !t; but the light at the ind the wind morning we > o'clock, »e tse(U and, as i little past 9 visit : the in- for Washing- tjrence in the ound that the ry good state. sactions there ..i. !/, — Return t^ I on ray frif"^^ the treasury I equally atten- irney, and, to was acciuaint- [an introducetl :r of intrwluc- narced thatl In of business, |e substance *'f gings, 1 drc* , v..: . f /;» ' . ' ' It '. %"■■ tfi.U til' '>' P)cliininafy Inquiries hefwe netting otU on a Tour to the Western Country. 1st. What are the particular situations in the United States which combine the greatest number of advantages to new settlers ? 2d. Who hold large tracts of unsettled land, in good situations ? It is presumed the most advantageous terms can be made with sucli, l>ecause every new settler has a tendency to confer value upon the adjoining lands. 3d. VMiat is the price of land generally, cleared and uncleared ; and the clinmt-^ as to the heat of summer and cold of winter? It is to be observetl that a temperate climate is deemed the best. 4th. What are the local circumstances attending the didercnt situ- ations that may come under review ? Are they best calculated for raising stock or grain ? It i.s presumed that one favourable for both would answer best. 5th. Where do those tracts of land lie, that are composed partly of woodland, and partly of prairie? It appears that meadow lands would suit best for tillage and grazing, while wood is in- dispensably necessary for fuel, for fences, for houses, for furni- ture, and other purposes. 6th. What situations are most favourable for minerals, particular- ly coal, iron, and limestone ? - - . .« Tlh. What is the degree of facility, by water communication ; and by roads and canals, already existing or projected ? 8lh. What are the best maps, geographies, gazetteers, and books of travels in the United States? May. 31. I waited on Mr. Gallatin, at his own house, ac- cording to appointment, when he gave me ample information on the greater part of the preceding inquiries, and invited me to jmeetliiin at his office for further details regarding the United jStates' lands. On waiting on him there, he exhibited all the |6ur\eys, and on a small map of the western country, in my pos- jseNsioii, marked out the diiferent land districts belonging to the government of the United States. . 1 was highly gratified by Mr. Gallatin's attention, and much liScd by his valuable information, which was my principal guide I fixing on my route, to be afterwards noticed. In the after an ot the day I made some additional inquiries, in consequence ''i 288 TRAVELS IK of the information received from Mr. Gallatin, and aftcrwardi went to see n friend in Georgetown. June 1. Having finished my more immediate business at Wasliington, I went this day to pay my respects to the president. Wr. Mudison, like his })redecessor, required no introduction; but lie was already acquainted with me by name. He received nic very politely in a drawing-room, and we had a long conversation, principally regarding the relations between Britain and America, Mr. Madison observed, that he would have gone to the couiitrv before this time, but was waiting for Mr. Foster, now daily ex- pected ; and he sincerely hoped that on his arrival something V. ould be done to accommodate the differences between the two countries. He remarked that he was happy to observe the favour- able disposition of the prince of Wales towards neutral trade; and it was a considerable ground of hope, that he was so popular in his own country. He had done nothing as yet, but it appear- ed that he had hitherto sacrificed his own opinion to his faial re- gard for his father ; and this circumstance, though it militated a- gainst a free trade between England and America now, yet it vas in favour of the prince's personal character; and he tlioiight there could hardly be a doubt but he would change the ministry and restore a free trade, when he succeeded to full power. . On the stopping of the trade itself, he remarked that, the im* morality and injustice of the measure out of the question, it had always astonished him that the British ministry should persevere in a system so evidently impolitic, and which militated more ; gainst the interest of England than any other nation ; and it could not be frqm ignorance, for the operation and tendency of the | orders in council had been very amply exposed in England, par- ticularly in Mr. Baring's pamphlet, and Mr. Brougham's speech; I both masterly productions, and which placed the question between the two countries in as clear a point of view as words could con- vey it. He observed that the effect of the order* in council were | very injurious in this country, as they tended to distress ; ho sea* ports, and to divide the people ; and there was now no aitciii>| tive but to sacrifice the national honour, or to resist. ricsi«taM«j had been determined on by congress, and would in all prob:ibil;i}l be persevered in till justice was obtained; nor did he believe thjtj any supposed oj^sitiou in the eastern states would now bavel any effect in altering that determination, it being well knovn that| THP. DISTRlCr OF COLUMBIA. 289 mass of the people in these states were determined republicans ; and, notwithstanding the difference of opinion on connnercial sub- jects, he was well assured that in the day of trial they would stand as firmly by their own government ns any section in the union. He rcgrettetl that a number of the merchants ditl not take a more extended view of the subject, and prefer their permanent interests to a precarious and temporary interest, liable to be cut off every day. It was evident that, independent of the principle which the orders in council involed, that during their operation, the trade must necessarily be very limited, and subject to great contingencies ; and without a free trade to the continent, there could be no free trade from England ; so that, although the govern- ment were even to sacrifice the national honour, and allow the merchaiitb to regulate the commerce of the country, the trade wonld soon cease of itself. Goods could only be imported to the extent of the exports, and these being confined to Enghmd, and her dependencies and allies^ it nmst necessarily be so limited, that many of the merchants would be in a losing concern, and domes- tic manufactures would ultimately supersede foreign commerce. Oil the subject of manufactures he observed that they had pro- j^essed in a wonderful degree, and went far to supply tlie internal demand, which was one great and permanent good that had arisen out of a system fraught with many evils : and so firmly were these manufactures now rooted that they would unquestionably fiourisli and increase. On the other hand, such had been the increase of population and wealth in the United States, that there would still be a very great demand for British manufactures, were the trade o- pcned. Mr. Baring had pointed out in his pamphlet that the ex- ports from Britain to America amounted to 12,000,000 stc'rlin«»-, and he had no doubt but they would continue to be equal to that amount if the trade were free: and this consideration alone niii'lit have hiduced the British miuisty to cultivate a friendly intercourse with a nation who were disposed to be friends, in place of scekiiif a precarious commerce by means of special licenses with their e- ucmies. The conversation laste ciety has made very considerable progress within these last 10 years. The population of the district of Columbia is now as follows Washington city Georgetown Washington county, exclusive of the city and Georgetown Alexandria Alexandria county, exclusive of the town 8,208 2,315 7,22: 1,32J 24,023 Having now com})Ietcd my arrangements here to my entire satis- faction, I was anxious to lose no timein commencing on my western tour ; I accordingly set out on my return, on the 2d of June, at 8 o'clock in the morning, and arrived at Baltimore at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, where I stopped all night. On the 3d of June I set out from Baltimore by the Pilot stage, nt 3 o'clock in the morning. The country was thinly settled, and the road verj' rough all the way to Havre-de-grace, at the mouth- of tlie NEW YORK. S9I Susquehannah, where we crossed by a ferry) upwards of a mile wide. Havre-de-grace is built on a beautiful plain ; but it i$ sub- ject to fever and ague, and is not thriving. The banks of the ri- ver to the northward are romantic and beautiful. Tlic country im- proves towards Philadelphia, and the road passes through Wilming- ton, a fine thriving town, formerly noticed. We arrived in Phila- delphia at 7 o'clock, having travelled 103 miles in IG hours; which was great despatch, when we consider the nature of the road. Next (lay I set out for New York by the steam-boat, and I arrived the day following, without meeting with any material adventure. CHAPTER LXII. Xew Yorkj — Itariton river, — Delaxvare river, — Philadelphia. H.AVING a good deal of business to arrange before I could sqK out on my journey, I was detained on Long Island till the begin- ning of August, and I devoted part of my time to digest my plan of travels as follows; THE ROUTE. To Philadelphia — Cross the mountains to Pittsburg — Sail down the Ohio to the falls — Cross through Kentucky by Lexington to Limestone — Cross the Ohio, and pass through the state of Ohio, by Zanesville, to the mouth of Cayhoga river, on Lake Erie — Tra- vel along the banks of Lake Erie to its east end — Travel along the banks of the Niagara river to the falls, and thence to Lake Ontario —Travel from thence to Batavia — and return to New York in any way that circumstances may direct. In fixing upon my route, one principal object was kept in view, namely, to take the several land-offices of the United States, and that of the Holland company, in my way. INQUIRIES TO BE MADE DURING THE JOURNEY. IsL As to the aspect of the country, soil, stratum under the soil, and minerals. 2d. As to lakes, rivers, creeks, springs, mineraKsprings, and swamps. 3d. As to natural timber, vegetable substances, plants, and herbs. ith. As to climate, seasons, health, and appearance of the inhabitants. 5th. As to beasts, birds, reptiles, insects, and fishes. 'mm ;iraii! 292 TRAVELS IM 6tli. As to commonccment of settlement, inhabitants where from manners and eustoms, oecupations, religious and political opj. nions, education nnd science, civil jurisprudence. 7th. As to cities, villages, farm-houses ond style of building. 8th. As to agriculture, mechanics, manufactures, and comnicrcp. 9th. As to roads, bridges, canuls, travelling accommodatiui] anJ charges. 10th. As to value of land — of stock— of labour — of provisions— of materials for building ond manufacturing. 1 1th. As to what classes are best adapted to the country. 12th As to what manufactures can l)c establiiihed to the greatest ad- vantage. IN{^UIRI£S TO BE MADE IN TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 1st. As to the date of settlement. 2d. As to number of houses nnd inhabitants. 3d. As to size and quality of the buildings. 4th. As to public buildings. 5th. As to taverns and stores. 6th. As to size and price of lots. 7th. As to house rent, prices of fuel and provisions. 8th. As to professions exercised and manufactures established. 9th. As to whether there be an opening for any of these, or any other. Having all my arrangements completed, I set out from Loni; Island on the 6th of August, 1811, and lodged in New York all night at the house of a friend. August 7th. I took my passage by the steam-boat, and at five minutes past seven the boat started from the wharf, with upwards of 70 passengers. This is one of the most useful establishments that has ever been attempted in America, and is remarkably well calculated for the American waters, many of which are of great \m»- nitiule* The patentees deserve great cretlit for their exertions ; ihtv have spared no expense to render the works complete ; and so well are the boats managed, that a person can travel often from 100 to 200 miles in 24 hours, and have as comfortable boarding and lodg- ing all the way as ho could have in the best tavern in New York. The preference which is given to these boats above every other con- vovanco is a proof of their utility ; and the chance is that they will be(U)mc universal through the country. There are now five on tlie North river, one on the llariton, one on the Delaware, one oa Lake Champlain, and one is building at Pittsburg. )rovisioiis— of NEW JERSEY. 293 We passed the several fortification i in the harbour, vhich wen* nil in a state of great forwarclnesg. Ono of them, Castle Williams, is said to be one of the best constructeil forts in the world, anil quite impn^nable. The United Jbitatcs frigate and Argus gun-brig were Ivin^ at anchor in the bay. \t eight o'clock we reached Staten Island, and took the passage betwixt it and new Jersey, called the Kills, where the tide runs with !rri:it velocity. We passed several fishing vessels, and many small traders ; and at nine o'clock were opposite to Newark bay, where wc had a fine view up the country. To the west of this is Eli/abeth- town point, well known in the history of the American war; and here the remains of the fortifications are still to be seen. At 12 o'clock we rcachetl Aniboy. The whole length of the channel between Staten Island and New Jersey is 2+ miles, and its average breadth about 800 yards. It is navijfable for small craft only, being in some places not more than three feet deep at low water. It abounds wiih fish, and has valua- Me fisheries of shad, herrings, drum, black-fish, clams, and oysters. An boy is a small place, containing 81.5 inhabitants. It is pret- tily sit!iated, and is a place of considerable resort in the summer season, as sea-bathing quarters. An elegant hotel and boarding- house is situated on the height above the town, which must com- mand a very extensive and variegated view of the country. We now entered Rariton river, a slow muddy stream ; but con- taining a good supply of fish. There arc large salt meadows on its banks ; but the land appears poor, and the crops very scant, until within a few miles of Brunswick, where the soil improves. The ri- ver contracts here, and the banks are steep and rocky. Ikunswick is in a thriving state. Here we had to travel over land to Bordentown, 33 miles, and our conjpany being pretty numerous, we filled three public stages besides some private carriages. We travelled by the new turnpike road, which ia not much settled ; but the timber denotes good land : and such is the advantage of the public road, that it will probably he all settled up in the course of a few years. At Princeton, IG miles from Brunswick, there is an elegant view, and the country is rich and well improved, which continues to be the case 1 1 miles, to Trenton, the capital of New Jersey, con- taining 3000 inhabitants. Here we left the post road and travelled hy a very rough path to Bordentown. Day-light failed us, and -•''tiffin™. S94 TRAVRLS IN bcinp^ pretty much futiguecl, I fell asleep. I henrti n confuMti noi^o in my sleep, and, starting up, I felt a motion as i( I had bciii flyini; but 1 had not a moment to consider ^vhat it mi^lit be, — thr stui,'r fell down upon its broad-side with a crash, and I found niy>cll aid eleven more floundering like so many fishes in a net. Luckily tlitrc was nobody materially hurt. An old woman who was sitting next to mc complained of being brui.sed a little; and some of tiicgcn- tiemen had got their faces somewhat scratched. I met with nu o- ther injury than a slight sprain in my arm. This accident arose in consequence of the driver getting drunk, and in his frolic trying to pass one of the other stages ; but lir paid dearly for his folly, for two of his teeth were knocked out b) the fall : and one of the proprietors being along with us, Iieturid him ofl' on the spot, and taking the reins himself, drove us to lior- dentown, where we sto)>ped all night. Bordentown is a handsome little place, situated on a height above the Delaware, from whence there is one of the finest views I hare ever seen. Our accommodations here were very good, and ik charges reasonable.* August 8th. The steam-boat stalled at 7 o'clock, and continu- ed her course towards Philadelphia, at the rate of seven miles an hour. The river is very beautiful, and the land on each side ap- pears fertile, and is well improved. At half past eight o'clock wc reached Bristol, a thriving little town, on the north bank, for- merly noticed ; and nearly opposite, on the Jersey side, is Burling- ton, also a thriving little town. The steam -boat stops at boili places for the accommodation of passengers, but the delay is not great. From Burlington to Philadelphia is 20 miles, and the view is handsome all the way. Near Philadelphia, a friend pointed out the situation on the bank '>f the river called Point-no-pomt, alludoJ to by Thomas Paine in his answer to Mr.Burke. At half past 12 vc reached the city of Philadelphia. Our company during the pussa;;e| wef every agreeable. immediately on my arrival 1 called at the Pittsburg stage-office, and learning that the stage was to start next morning at four o'clocU I secured my seat, and spent the evening with my friends. • For a table of the expenses on this journey, and a register fif the weather, see Ap- pendix, Nos. 1 and 2. KSNSYLVANIA. «9.> CIIAPTEH LXIII. rhHad^phiOf — LancaJ ' —Tlurnfl/Urg — S/iijjpentturgt — Chamber slmrg. August 9ll». At 4 o'clock in the morning tlic atngc startcil. The morning was ibggy and cool, the thermontt'trr being ubout «i)a. The stage was u roomy vehicle, capable ut' containing 12 ixTsons, but there were only three or four passengers, Inniiiles niy- v:\i The horses were noble looking animals, the best I had yet teen in the United States; and I learned that Pennsylvania had a very fine breed, and we would have such horses uli the way to i*i;ubiirg. From Hiiladelphift to the Buck tarern, 10 miles to the westward, the country is agreeably uneven, and well wooded; nnd the soil pretty fertile. It abounds with small streams, which, I imagine, would be very favourable for the erection of manufactories. Tho natural timber is principally oak, chesnut, and hickory. It is a good country for grazing, and raises grain and vegetables in abun- dance. The lands are all taken up and improved ; the price is from To to 120 dollars per acre. We travelled 10 miles, through a country nearly similar, when the road descended, by a turning, into a very rich valley, which presents a most animated prospect. Mere we saw rich fields, sub- stantial farm-houses, fine flocks and herds, and the whole face of nature smiling around us. The view is terminated, to the north, by pretty lofty hills. The houses here arc mostly built of stone, and we were told the inhabitants were principally quakers, and of German extraction. Our road continued through this valley, 10 miles, to Downings- I town, where we crossed the east branch of the Brandy wine crei'k, here a handsome little stream, and soon after we ascended Gap ill. This is a high tract of country, the lands rather barren ; it I *as originally settled by emigrants from Ireland. The value of I land is from 25 to 40 dollars. We travelled about nine miles >ng this high land, when we descended, crossed the west brauch of the Brandywine creek, and entered a fine champaign country, l«ith a limestone bottom. lliis country is elegantly improved, and is very fertile, produq- 296 IRWELS IN n £{■ ing a great variety of grain, particularly wheat, from which flour is manufactured for sale U a great extent annually. Tim tract h very extensive, and is one of the best settled in the United States, The faruis are every where well cultivated, and the people appear- ed to be in prosperous circumstances. They arc said to be niostlv of German descent. The price of land here is from 75 to 130 dol- lars per acre, increasing as you approach Lancaster. We reached Lancaster at 5 o'clock in the evening, and only stop- ped to change horses ; so that I could see but little of the town. Indeed, my original plan was not to make any minute inquiry, un- til 1 should reach Pittsburg. Lancaster is situated in a fertile plain, 62 miles to the westward of Philadelphin. It is built on a regular plan, the streets crossing one another at right angles. The houses are mostly constructed of brick, but some few are of stone. The inhabitants amount to 5405, and are mostly of German origin. The public buildings are seven places for public worship, a court-house, jail, and market-house; and there is a poor-house, a <^ery humane institution, situated uu the Conestoga creek, a mile Irom the town. The principal manu- factures are fire-arms, particularly rifle-barrelled guns ; and there are several tan yards, distilleries, and breweries. This is, at present, the seat ol government for Pensylvaniu,but, by a late act of the legislature, it is to be removed to Harrisburg: and 39,000 dollars have been appropriated to erect public building^ there. "We left Lancaster at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, and travelled bv| a good r6ad, 18 miles, to Eiizabethtown, where we stopped all night. The soil continues good, upon a limestone bottom, all the way to this place. In our iourney we had a very fine view of tliel hi »h lands to the south-west. Eiizabethtown consists of 30 or W houses, mostly built of wood. August 10th. The stage started this morning at half past 3| o'clock, and was full of passengers. The morning was tiamp anilj foffffV. The thermometer stood at 65°. A little alter leavin( Middleton, we crossed through the Conewago hills, the soil jwonj the country rough, and the road very bad. Four miles fro Eiizabethtown, we passed Conewago creek ; and four :niles fur-| ther, we parsed the Swatawra creek, and reached Middleton ; small place, consisting of about 100 houses, mostly coustructcd i -logs. PENVSYLVANIA. 897 We were now on the banks of the noble SusquchannaK river, along which we had a very agreeable ride, by a good road, to. Harrisburg. The view is said to be beautiful, but it was obscured by the fog ; and I was sorry to find that the inhabitants had been 3 little afflicted with fever and ague. This disease is very common on the American rivers, before the country is settled and drained. On this river, it is most common on the east side ; a circumstance easily Accounted for, by reflecting that the most prevalent winds are from the south-west, which naturally blow the marsh effluvia, that collects on the margin of the river, to the eastward. This disease will be ot no long duration on the Susquehannah. The country is uneven on its surface, and has a limestone bottom ; and it is settling up very fast, so that in a short time it roust be cleared and drained, and all sickness of this kind will disappear. Harrisburo is situated on the east branch of the Susquehan- nah, 97 miles from Philadelphia. It is handsomely laid out on the plan of Philadelphia, having four streets running parallel with the river, named Front, Second, and so on ; and these are cross- ed by others at right angles, called Mulberry, Chet^nut, Market, Walnut, Locust, and Pine. The houses are mostly built of brick, and have a good appearance, and the town is rapidly encreasing, particularly since the act of legislature constituting it the seat of government for the state. The inhabitants of the township a- mount to 2287. There is an elegant court-house and stone jail built, and the public buildings for the accommodation of the state government, now erecting, will be the most elegant structures in the state. Harrisburg was laid out in 1785, and has made pro- gress ever since ; and from its commanding and central situation, it will, in all probability, become one of the largest inland towns in America. We were informed that some lots were lately sold here for 2000 dollars ; and land sells in the neighbourhood for from 80 to 100 dollars per acre. After breakfast we crossed the Susqueliannah river in a flat boat, poled by four men. The river is here nearly a mile wide, and was, when we crossed it, from three to five feet deep, with a pretty rough gravelly bottom ; the current was swift, and the water pure. I was informed that we were now between two ranges of hills, called the North and South Mountains, but the day continued so foggy that I could not perceive them. The country immediately J8 . . i, 'III -.111 u m • > f, 2f93 TRAVELS IN round us wus fertile, anci well cultivated ; and the climate was said io be quite healthy on this side of the river. We travelled 15 miles to Carlisle, in the neighbourhood of which land sells for from 70 to 120 dollars per acre, and the country is well settled and improved; a considerable part oftlic produce here is hemp. Cahusle is situated on a large plain, having somewhat the ap- pearance of Lancaster. It is regularly laid out, with streets cros- sing one another at right angles ; and contains by the last ccnsu* Qj^Ol inhabitants. The houses are partly built of brick and partly of wood, and have a very respectable appearance. The public buildings arc, a college, a court-house, jail, and five places for public wor>rhip. The college is named Dickenson, in honour of a gentleman of that name, who was it founder, and is esteemed an excellent seminary of learning. Its funds are about 10,000 dol- lars in certificates, and the state made a grant in support of it, of 1 0,000 acres of land. A philosophical apparatus, and library, consisting of nearly 3000 volumes, are attached to it. Dr. Ncsbit, u Scots gentleman of high estimation, was several years prcsi- ticnt of this college ; but he died some years ago. I learned that Mr. Thomas Cooper, the friend and correspondent of the late Dr. Priestley, was to be appointed one of the prolessors ; and from his well-known scientific abilities and industry, I have no doubt but he will be a great acquisition. There are a principal and three professors, and tlie students amount to above one hundred. After leaving Carlisle the day cleared up a little, and vre had a partial view of the mountains. The valley is about 13 or 14 miles broad, is very fertile, and abounds with beautiful views. "We passed several small streams, which I was told run into two creeks, between which we travelled, the one called Conedogwiuet, the other Yellow Breeches. The one rises in the North, the other in the South Mountains, and both run a north-east course to the Susquehannah, and are very useful, as well as ornamental, to this charming valley. Nine miles from Carlisle we stopped for dinner, near the foot of the South Mountains, of which we had a beautiful view ; and our view was equally pleasing in the interior i of the house, where were a number of fine young damsels, whoi^e rosy cheeks I considered an indication of a healthy country. From hence we travelled 10 miles to Shippensburg; the country I is nearly the same as already mentioned, but in many places ib* I imatc was said PENNSYLVANIA. 299 linic«tone jutted out of the road, nnd rendered out travelling very rou^b. Near Sliippensburg we passed some pine trees, the fiBst I had seen since I left Philadelphia, but the tract was of no great extent. In the neighbourhood of Shippensburg the land is good, and sells for about 50 dollars per acre. Wood land is considered the most valuable. Shippensburg is but a small place. The whole township, b}r last census, contained only 1159 inhabitants; but it is thriving, and they are establishing manufactories, particu]arl|r of cotton, of which the carriage is only half a cent per pound from Baltimore. There are a variety of churches, and schools are plenty; the expence of tuition is about two dollars per quarter. The limestome bottom continues, and the soil and state ofci^- tivation are nearly the same the next 1 1 miles to Chambcrsburg, where we slopped for the night. CHAPTER LXIV. Chambersburgy — M'Connelstffwn, — Bedford. I HAD travelled a good part of the way through this valley with a Mr. Lindsay, one of the proprietors of the stage, to whom I was principally indebted for my information by the way, and, as I lodged at his house, I was able to make an important addition to my stock of knowledge regarding this part of the country. Chambersburg is the capital of Franklin county, ami is situ- ated on the eastern branch of Conecocheague creek, in the middle of the valley between the North and South Mountains. It con- sists mostly of one long and pretty broad street, and contains nearly 2000 inhabitants. The buildings are partly of brick and partly of wood ; but brick buildings are now the most common, and there are some of stone. The public buildings are a court- house, jail, and three or four places for public worship. The schools are numerous, and education is from two to five dollars per quarter. There are numerous manufactories in this place nnd lis neighbourhood, particularly on Conecocheague creek, which drives two grist-mills, two paper-mills, two oil-mills, and one I'ul- ling-mill. There are several carding machines, and spinning jen- nies, and two stocking frames. The price of working a pair of stockings is about half a dollar. There are tliree weekly news- [»pers published, besides one in the German language. * ,lp, a. P^*i too TRAVBLS IN Tltif valley ii considered the moat important in America. It extends from the Hudson river south-west to Tennessee, and i« of various breadths, from 12 to 25 miles. It is all on a bed of lime- atone, and is very fertile ; the northern part raising every gort of grain, with iruits and hemp ; and towards the south, in addition to these, it raises cotton. It abounds with iron ore, and otiitr minerals, and mineral springs. It is well watered with numeroui Important rivers, and a great number of flourishing towns arc situated on it, of which the most important are, Carlisle, Sliip. pensburg, Strasburg, Chambersburg, Messersburg, and Green- castle, in Pennsylvania ; Hag;.'rstown, Williamsport, and Sliarps- burg, in Maryland ; and ^iartinsburg, Winchester, Newmarket, Staunton, Fincastle, and Austinville, in Virginia. In that part of it situated in Pennsylvania, land sells for from 20 to 100 dol- lars per acre; horses 20 to 200 dollars; cows about 20 dollars- The climate is excellent the whole length of the valley. There arc few slaves in this place ; there are only 87 in Franklin county. I now began to get acquainted with some of my fellow-travellers. Two of them were from Philadelphia, bound to Bedford springs; one from Virginia, bound for Chilicothe ; and here we picked up a sort of a Frenchman, bound ilie Lord hums whither, for it ap- peared he did not know himself. With this company the stage started from Chambersburg, on Sunday the 11th of August, at 8 o'clock in the morning. By the post-office regulations the stages are not required to travel here on Sunday, but they must carrj' the mail from Philadelphia to Pittsburg in six ordinary days ; so when the sabbath intervenes, they generally make a sliort journey to lighten those of the remaining days. We were to travel this day 22 miles to M^Connelstown. About a mile from Chambersburg we ascended a considerable hill, from whence we had a very extensive view of tlie valley and distant mountains. Nine miles from Chambersburg, near the foot of the mountains, we stopped to see a singular curiosity, which we were told was taken out of a cave in the North Moun- tain, about two miles distant It was a stone exactly in the form of a turtle, and little doubt remained on my mind but it was a petrifaction, though I had not time to make the necessary inquiries concerning it. Two miles from thence we stopped to change, horses, at the foot of the first mountain, at an elegant new brick house. The road winds round the foot of this mountain to PlNNSYLVANtA. 301 where a fine ralley opens to the northward, in which runs the the west branch of Conecocheague creek, which having crossed, wc immediately began to ascend the North Mountain ; and now wc prepared for a tough pull. For the first mile the ascent was easy^ but after this it was very steep, and the road narrow and exces- lively rough. I was puzzled to find out how carriages could pass one another by the way : but the mystery was solved as we went up the hill. Our driver kept sounding a horn, and we soon came to eight or nine waggons descending, which had all drawn aside at a place that had been made bix^ader for that purpose. The qps- tom is for those in the ascending carriage to imitate their situation by sounding a horn ; and on hearing it, those descending must wait their approach at the first place they can pass. The stage, or a single carriage, has seldom any great difficulty ;' but when tlicre are a number of waggons together, the difficulty is some- times very great About a mile from the top of the mountain we came to a miser- able log-cabin, where the driver stopped to water his horses, and we stcpt into the house to get a little spirits and water. We found it kept by an old woman, with a son and two daughters. The Htuation is so romantic and lonely that it might suit a hermit; but this appeared to be no hermitage. Having rested a little, we pursued our journey to the mountain's tx3p. On the top of the mountain there is a house kept by a re- spectable German family, and here we again stopped a short time. From hence we had a view of an amazing extent. To the easl^ ward we saw the fertile valley we had left, elegantly variegated with woods and cultivated fields, with towns and farm-houses, and roads and rivers ; and to the west we saw piles of mountains, with Kenery among them elegantly variegated, as far as the eye could reach. We bade adieu to the plains for a time, and braced up our minds as well as our bodies, in expectation of meeting with many a shake and jolt, before we got from among the mountains ; and truly we had need, for we descended by a path of two milec and a half, so steep, and so rough, that it was ofiten with difficul* t}- wc could sit in the carriage. On reaching the plain below, wb lodged at M'Connelstown, before mentioned. Our Frenchman and Virginian soon became acquainted, and, thounh it was the sabbath evening, they proposed to go a hunting 'u)!,rethcr ; but the landlords to whom thtufy had applied, put them '^ ' {' ' 302 TRAVELS IN I ■ ■ ■ ^ 'P' '\m rag ^h H 9 n H upon the wrong scent, and they returned without finding any ganjf to their lilting. M'CoNNELSTOWN coulains 80 or 90 houses, and about 500 in- habitants. The houses are built of wood, many of them of log?, but the town appears to be thriving. There are eight taverns and seven stores ; and several manufactories have been recently esta- blished, particularly a carding machine, some weaving, and hosi. cry. Flour sells for 7 dollars per barrel, beef at 4 J dollars, and other provisions in proportion. Baltimore is the nearest port, distant 100 miles. From hence to the Potomac river is about 2j miles. Monday, Augupt 12th, the stage started from M'Connelstown at half past 5 o'clock. The morning was clear, the thermometer stood at 69°. On leaving the town we ascended Scrub hill, and about a mile up we had a very extensive view of the countrj, which is rough, and thinly inhabited, but very healthy. Land sells at from from one to fifteen dollars per acre. After travelling about ten miles, we stopped to breakfast, and immediately aj- vcended Sidling hill. This chain, though not so large as the North Mountains, is yet very magnificent and lofty, and, by the road, is two miles from bottom to top. We walked a considerable way on the ascent, and, on the top, were rewarded by a most sublime view, but differing materially from that on the North mountains, We were now environed by mountains on all sides. In descend- ing this hill to the westward, we fell in with the Strasburg road, and near the same place the Baltimore road joins. This hill ii about 1800 feet high, and there are several taverns upon it. Con- nected with this is Ray's hill, on which we travelled about half a mile, when we descended by a very steep and rough road, and, passing through an uneven country three miles, we reached the Juniata river. This a large branch of the Susquehanna!), and was noticed in page 130. Here it is singularly romantic, having high, steep, and rugged banks, and it runs in a deep chasm on-* bed of free-stone, the passage being remarkably serpentine. A chain bridge was building, but, not being finished, we passed by a flat boat. The piers of the bridge were erected, and are 24 feet high ; but the Ineh were not at work, and I did not learn the dimensions of the other parts. Having crossed the Juniata, we ascended a considerable emi- nence, by a winding path, and travelled about a mile through pret- PENNSYLVANIA. ,*i03 tv well cuUivatcil fields, to where vvc siiw ii most sin<^u1ar curiosity. The river makes n bend so remarkable that wc couUl stand on a neck oflaiul and pitch a stone over the bank, on each side; while the course of the river round the bend is nearly five miles. The banks arc very lofty, and clad from top to bottom with various kinds of trees and shrubbery. \Vc travelled along tlie banks of this romantic river, almost con- itantly in sight of it, eight miles, when we passed a little village call- ed Bloody Run, in commemoration of the massacre of a body of mi- litia by the Indians, soon after Braddock's defeat. We passed a number of waggons in our progress, and sometimes with consider- able difficulty, for tlie road was often very narrow, and at one place proceeds along the banks of the river on the side of a hill by a pas- mc so terrific that I had some apprehensions for my })crsonal safe- ty. We were told, indeed, that a waggon had been here overturn- ed and destroyed, together with the driver and horses, some time before. The country becomes more and more romantic towards Bedford, six miles from which we passed betwixt the Warrior and Tussey's mountains. Here I was informed by one of the gentlemen from Philadelphia that he had been encamped near this place when the militia were called out in the time of Mr. AJams' administration, to suppress the riots in this part of the country, emphatically called " the hot water war." The road continues very rough till within a mile of Bedford, where we passed a handsome little stream called Dunning's creek, by a bridge ; after which the road improves, and there are handsomely cultivated fields all the way to the town, which we reached at 5 o'clock. As Bedford had become a notable watering-place, we hired the driver to carry us to the springs, about half a mile distant. Here we found a vast concourse of people collected f om dilFercnt places, lome of them very distant. The principal spring issues in great pro- fusion from a rock, and appears to be stronglv impregnated with magnesia, and a little sulphur ; so that it is unquestionably me- dicinal, and very good for some complaints : but from the mode in V'liich it is used, it may admit of doubt whether it does most harm oi" good. It is indiscriminately used for every complaint; and is of- [ tea drank in such profusion as must assuredly tend to disorganize I the stomach, and bring on a flatulency. I drank about a pint, I ''Iiich I found to be " quantum suff. ," but I was told, indeed I ■<, •t-m. iUi<*i^ 30^ TRAVbLS IN found it printed in a book, that from two to thirty halt>pinu wai the usual quantity, an hour before breakfast ; and some drank fifu half pints. There is a bathing-house handsomely fitted up in the immediate neighbourhood of the spring, and is supplied with water from it ; but I presume pure water would be equally efficacious for bathing. Adjoining the spring, in a hollow, is a large buildirig fit- ted up as a boarding-house, where the charge is about five or six dollars per week. The situation is, upon the whole, very romantic, and truly delightful. On my return to the town I spent a very agreeable evening with Mr. Tod, a member of the state legislature, from whom I received a great deal of local information. Bedford is the capital of Bedford county, and has a very roman- tic situation among the mountains. It is in a thriving condition, and contains 5i7 inhabitants. It was originally composed of log and frame buildings ; but these are now giving way to brick houses: so that I think Bedford is likely to become a very handsome, as it will always be a very romantic little place. The public buildings are a court-house and presbyterian meeting-house ; and there are four taverns and seven stores in the place. There are several schools; and a weekly newspa})er is printed. The people manufacture the greater part of their own clothing. The land in the neighbourhood is fertile ; but, being immediat^ ly surrounded with mountains, the quantity of arable land is small, and sells at from ten to twenty dollars per acre. We lodged at Moore's tavern, where the accommodations were very poor. I was shoved into a little dirty apartment, somewhat like a passage, the window broken to pieces, and the bed— —of it X had best say nothing. I lay down without undressing, and wii very glad when called on to take my seat in the stage at 3 o'clock in the morning. CHAPTER LXV. Somersetf — Laurel HiU, — Chesrtut Ridge. Tuesday, August ISth, on taking my place in \thc stage, I found we were to have a numerous company, principally people from Pittsburg, returning from the springs. Qne of theni) avcrjf PENNSYLVANIA. 305 stout robust looking man, with a thundering voice, was giving the necessary orders ; and I began to b« afraid that wc would have a troublesome neighbour : but I was glad to find, afterwards, that I had miscalculated, — for I found him to be one of the most civil and discreet gentlemen that I had met with in all my travels. Besides the company in the stage (and it was full,) there was a cavalcade of four or five on horseback ; and being all bound for Pittsburg, we made a i)retty respectable party. Being all fixed, (to use an American expression,) we started at half past 3 o'clock. The morning was foggy ; but it cleared up by 6 o'clock, when the thermometer stood at 50°. We twice crossetl a branch of the Juniata river, on which a number of valuable mills arc erected. Between four and five miles from Bedford, the road forks, the north branch passing in nearly a direct line to Grccns- burg. We took the south branch, which passes by Somerset. The country is rough, but tolerably well cultivated, and raises much more grain than is sufficient to supply the internal demand. The market for flour is Baltimore, and the expense of carriage thither is about one dollar and a half per barrel. We stopped for breakfast 1 4 miles from Bedford ; and here I jKrccived that they made a dificrencein the charge between lhej)as<- sengers in the stage and those on horseback : the former paying 31^ cents, the latter only 25 cents. I inquired into the reason of it, and was informed it was in consequence of being obliged to prepare victuals for a certain number of passengers by the stage, whether they ciune or not ; in consequence of which there is a considerable loss of time, and some waste of victuals ; whereas, in the other case, they know to a certainty what they have to prepare. The regulation is reasonable. — After breakfast we travelled four miles over an in- ferior chain of hills, called Dry ridge, the road rough, the soil poor, and the views numerous and extensive. At 11 o'clock we arrived at at the foot of the Allegany, the greatest of all the chains of moun- tains, and emphatically termed the back-bone of America. The ascent of this mountain was easier than I imagined it would have been, and the company being sociable and well-disposed, wcrode and walked alternately, which afforded considerable vari- ety. Near the top we stopped at an excellent stone house, kept by a Dutchman as a tavern, where we rested a considerable time, and bespeaking some refreshment, we found the provisions good, and the charge moderate. The view to the eastward is very exten- 89 '"I 306 TRAVELS IN sivc ; but, as we were not yet upon the summit, we could not tec ivcstwurd. There was a little rivulet near the house, aiul on iu banks some pretty fertile soil, wliich was with great care convcrtd into arable land ; and a garden beside the house raised a good ku|> ply of vegetables. The cows, sheep, hogs, and poultry were plen^ tifully supplied from the grass of the mountain ; but the flour and liquors had to be brought from the low country. But, in truth, it is really a comfortable residence, and I presume the honest Dutcli< man will succeed very well as a tavern-keeper at this place. On our way towards the summit we met some people who had been very su(- cessful in gathering whortle-berries, with which all the mountains f&bound ; and they made us a present of as miany as we chose to take. On reaching the summit, my senses were almost overpowered by the sublimity of Uie view, and the sensations excited by it. Tu form some idea of it, it is nccessory to bear in minJ., that the base of the second ridge is a little higher than the first, and soon to the Allegany, which is the highest of all ; and from thence the coun- try agani falls to the westward. Hence the Allegany is the divid- iuji riduje between the eastern and western waters : and a shower ol' rain falling here must be so divided, that one part of it will run into the Atlantic by the Chcsapeak bay, and the other will fall into the Gnlph of Mexico by the Mississipi, berg separated lOOO miles in a direct line. The view is most extensive, and is sublime in a high degree ; but as it is only a small part of the globe that can be sub- mitted to the sense of vision at any one time, there is a kind of regret, commingled with the other sensations, that we cannot here vievr the country from the Atlantic to the Mississippi. Imagination and a perusal of the map must in part supply the defect. But I cannot express all I feel, and must hasten from the towering eminence, to survey the country piece by piece, the only way that it can be ac- complished by mortal man. I may cry out, " O, that I had the wings of the morning, that I might fly to the uttermost ends of the earth in search of knowledge !" But sober reason steps in to check the vain illusion ; so I must e'en take her for my guide, aiid travel, not as fancy, but as reason directs. As we began to descend, I could distinctly perceive that we were now in a different climate, and was strongly impressed with thi force of Volney's remarks on the climate of the United States. The wind was blowing from the westward, and had a balmy soiV ness, which I had often observed in Europe, but seldom in thf United States ; and though it was the hottest time of the day, and PINMSYLVAMIA, 807 the hottest season of the year, we felt no inconvenience from it. On reaching the phiins below, these remarks were corroborated by observing the fields. The grass, grain, fruit, all indicated that wv were now in a tcmj)erate climate; the fields of oats were particular- ly demonstrative of it. In all my travels through the Atlantic (tatcs, cast of the mountains, I had uniformly noticed tliat oats did not corae to the same degree of maturity as in Europe, lie rea- ;on which I assigned was, that the climate is too rapid for them, and they are ripened before the ear fills. Here, however, I fuu<)d elegant fields of them, which had come to full maturity ; and I was so struck with the circumstance, that I several times got out of the stage to examine them. I always met with the same result. From the foot of the mountain, wc travelled about 14 miles, through an uneven country, to Somerset, where we stopped for the night. On our arrival at this place, I was proceeding to follow up my inquiries ; and judging that the landlord would be equally communicative and obliging with those I had before met with in the United States, I began to put some questions to him. But I soon found that I had reckoned without my host. To the first question he made a repulsive answer ; and at the second, he turned upon his heel, muttering something to himself, that I did not dis> tinctly hear. " O, ho !" thinks I to myself, " I have got into th« wrong box ;" so I very composedly shut up my papers, and step- ped over to the postmaster, at the other side of the street. 1 found him a perfect contrast to the landlord. He was not only willing to answer all my questions, but he called in the aid of several other gentlemen, and I got every information I could desire. Somerset is the capital of Somerset county, and is situated in a valley called the Glades. The town was laid out about 24 years ago, and now contains 480 inhabitants. The houses are in num- ber about 80 or 90, principally built of logs, and there are eight taverns and six stores. The public buildings are a court house and jail; and two churches arc building. The town is well supplied with provisions, which sell at moderate prices ; beef, mutton, and pork, are about four cents per pound. The manufactures are equal to the supply of the demand, except for fine goods. There ire in the town and neighbourhood several carding machines for '"ool, and one for cotton, which are doing well. Cotton is brought 1 from Baltimore at about two cents per pound ; and wool, both •ommon aad merino, is abundant in the country. The schools are ..i-^^Ji y JOS TRAVILS IN very gooil and iniproving ; and there is a newspaper socitty cstal>. lulled, which gctM nil the principal newspopers in the United States. The country in the neighbourhood id pretty fertile, and agri- culture u In an improved state. They raise oats, barley, wheat and rye; and the country answers remarkably well for j^rozing, particularly sheep. There is plenty of iron ore in the valliy, nnci three forges have been recently erected. The greater part of the surplus produce is carried to Cumberland, 3.5 miles distant; where it is taken by boats, down the Potomac, to Baltimore. Land car. ringe to Philadelphia is three dollars per cwt. The obliging poatmaster from whom I got my information, \i a native of Ireland, and has been long settled in this country. Hit name is Clark, and I sliall long keep it on the right side of the book of my remembrance. — Mr. Webster, the landlord, must take " the left hand road." On my return to the tavern, the company had all retired to bed, but I had to sit up and finish my notes. The landlord hinted that 1 had better go to bed, as the stage would start very early in the morning. I told him I must write a little before I went to bed, but would rise at any hour, provided I was calleil. He said I would be called in due time. Before I finished, it was near 12 o'clock. August 14th. At half past 2 o'clock, I heard the voice of my hindlord, calling all hands to their duty. I looked up, rubbing my eyes : — " Will the stage go soon ?" said I. " The stage will go when it's ready," said he. " And when will it be ready ?" said I. " That's nothing to you," said he : " I have called you ; that's my duty ; if you don't obey orders, and are disappointed, the blame's your own." I started up, and went down stairs. When I settled my bill, " Now Pm ready," said I. " No, you're not quite ready yet," said he, " there's some whiskey and bitters for you." I took a little of it. " Well, what's to pay for this ?" " Nothing. ' '^'he ladies appeared, and he ordered them into an adjoining room to get some cofTee; and pointed out the whiskey and bitters to the gentlemen who attended them. " I believe Fll take a cup of cof- fee with the ladies," said one of the gentlemen. " If you don't choose the bitters, you mjiy let them alone," said the landlord; *' but the coffee was provided for the ladies, and of it you don't get one drop." But his care of the ladies did not end here. The morning was cold and raw, and he .provided warm great coats for PENNSYLVANIA. 309; them all. This humane conduct goTo me a better opiniun of him, than I otherwise would have entertained; and, enquiring; intohi* I istory, 1 U'arnttI that he had been an officer in the army, (lurinjj the war, which accounted for the austerity of his behavionr^ ami tlic hauirhtine»H of his command. Six miles from Somerset, we reached Laurel II ill, of which^ as I made no particular remark, except that we had a fine view from the top, I *hall transcribe Michuux's account. " The di- rection of this ridge is parallel with those we left behind us; tha wootU which cover it, are more tufted, and the vegetation appears. more lively. The name given to this mountain, I have no doubt, proceeds from the great quantity of ca/wm latifoUa^ from 8 to 10 feet liif^h, which grows exclusively in all the vacant places, and that of the rhododendrum maximum^ which enamel the borders of the torrents; for the inhabitants call the rhododendrum laurel, as frquently as the calmia latifolia." The descent on the western udc of this ridge was very steep, and we had to walk nearly all the way down. We breakfasted at the foot of Laurel Hill, and travelled over lacountry pretty fertile, and partially improved, about eight miles tuthe foot of Chesnut Ridge,' the last and least of the mountains; over which the road passes two miles. This ridge lies parallel with all the others, and has nothing to recommend it to particular no-. ticc, except that the view being now unobstructed to the westward, the western country appears to be spread out like a plain of vast. lextent. We reached the foot of this mountain at 1 o'clock, and I shall introduce the country beyond it to the notice of the reader, . |in a new chapter. !*pjf:l I ''t CHAPTER LXVL Western Country^ — Greenshurgy — Pittsburg. 'N entering into the country to the westward of the mountains, itie whole face of nature indicated a fertile soil and healthy cli- mate. The woods consisted princijially of oak, hickory, chesnut, Muut, locust, and sugar-maple ; and the trees were generally ipeaking, larger than any timber I had ever seen before. The fields were fertile and well cultivated, and the crops of, grain and m 310 TRAVELS m grass were luxuriant. The surface of the earth is swelled out into an inQumerable number of small hills, but all fit for cultivation and the ground is abundantly watered by springs and rivulets. With these advantages, it was not to be supposed that this coun- try, so near the old settlements, would long lie waste; and we accordingly find, that the county of Westmoreland is one of the most popul'jus in the state of Pennsylvania. The farms are well improve^} and the farm-houses are, many of them, substantial, and bespeak affluence, ease, and comfort. These remarks may appear singular to such as know of no medium by which wealth can be obtained, but that of foreign commerce ; but they arc, nevertheless, correct. The people here appear to be as well lodged, as well fed, and as well clothed, as those who live in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia or New York. After passing Chesnut Ridge the road makes a considerable bend to the northward, and crosses several small creeks, branch^ of the Yoxhiogeni river ; the principal of which is Sewickly creek; and seven miles from thence we reached Greensburg, passing in our way a salt spring, and a coal mine, the first I had seen in the United States. We stopped for the night at Worbache's tavern. Greenspurg is the capital of Westmoreland county, and is situated in a healthy, fertile country. It contains by last census 680 inhabitants, and is encreasing. The houses are mostly built of wood, but some few are of brick. The public buildings are, a court-house, jail, meeting-house, and market-house. Thursday, 15th August. The stage started from Greensburg at 4 o'clock, and travelled through a fertile country ; but it was very uneven, and we were constantly either ascending or descend* ing. Six miles from Greensburg we passed a little place called Adamsburg, consisting of a few houses only ; and at six miles from thence we stopped to breakfast at *he house of a Mr. Stewart, one of the most discreet landlords 1 ever saw. Our charge here was only 25 cents. At ten miles from Stewart's we had to descend a pretty steep eminence, to cross Turtle creek, and some rain having fallen, the road was very slippery and bad. One of the Pittsburg gentlemen, and I, alighted to walk down the hill. We got a considerable way before the stage, and my fellow-traveller took me a little off the road, to see what he termed a great curi* oiity. It was indeed one of nature's wonders, the remains of a remarkably large tree. The history of it, as he stated it, was thii PENNSYLVANIA. 311 The troe was a sycamore, which species, when they grow very large, decay in the heart. This one had so decayed, and there vaia hole in one side of it. A family had come down the creek in the winter season, and got their boat stove by the ice ; when, see- ing this tree, they cleared out the rubbish from the inside, and converted it into a house, where they lived for some time, till they got their boat repaired. When they left it they set it on fire, which consumed every thing but the stump; and the remains of it now form a circle like the staves of a large vat. My friend told me he had rode into it with his horse, and turned him round in the inside, which he could do with ease. We measured it, and found it to be fully 15 feet in diameter. Having crossed the creek, and ascended the hill on the other tide, we travelled about a mile, when we came to the ground where General Braddock was defeated. Many memorials of th« battle are still to be seen ; but none so characteristic as the bones, which lay bleaching by the way side ; and of which one of our company, being an anatomist, carried one away as a curiosity. A little after passing this place, we stopped at the house of a judge Wallace ; and here we were recompensed for the disagreea- ble sensations excited by the sight of the field of battle, by the view of one of the most lovely of God's works. Miss Wallace came out to the carriage with some fruit and cyder. She was beautiful, while she appeared quite unconscious of it, being en- tirely free from affectation ; she was the picture of innocence, and iweet simplicity. On leaving the house, I was informed by the Pittsburg ladies, who were acquainted with her, that her mind was as elegant as her person, and her affections graced both — le whole forming the picture of the poet : -Innocence Looked gaily smiling on; while rosy PleMure Hid young Desire amid her flow'ry wreath, And pour'd her cup luxuriant ; mantling high. The 4>arkling heavenly vintage, love and bliss. From hence to Pittsburg is nine miles, and the country con- [ mued hilly for seven ; when we came to the banks of the Alle- gany, and proceeded along an open plain, bounded by the Alle- g«ny on the west, and by pretty high hills on the east ; and wo proceeded between these, two miles, to Pittsburg, whcre^ we arrived « two o'clock. i,i':i s4f •r » J 1 I ol'$ • TRAVELS IN I shall close this chapter with a few general remarks. The whole of the mountains, as far as I saw them, are cover- ed with wood to the very top ; and they form a very luxuriant ap. pearance, compared with the bleak mountains of Britain and Ire- land. There are a great variety of valuable plants amongst them; but, being no botanist, I shall barely transcribe a list of them, which I find scattered in different places of Michaux' tTiavek Calmia latifolia, Andromeda vaccinium^ JRhododendrum, Modo- dendrtim maximum^ Magyiolia acuminata^ Q uercus banisteri, Azalea, Michaux mentions that there are a great many rattlesnakes iji the mountainous parts of Pennsylvania, and he found a vast num- ber of them killed upon the road. We found only one, and 1 have never yet seen a live rattle-snake in America, except one ex- hibited in a box as a show. As I have the book of this respectable traveller in my band, I may notice, that the country has much changed in the course of eight years, or he must have been mistaken in some of his conclu- sions. In the 2d London edition, l)age 30, he observes : " Sheep being very scarce, the wool is very dear, and they reserve it to make stockings." In my journey through the mountains, I passed many droves of horses, cattle, hogs, and some sheep, going to the Ciistward. The mountainous district is well calculated for shecp^ and merino sheep have been introduced, and are thriving remark- ably well. Wool is plenty, and carding machines are common all over the country. In page 40, he observes: " A passion tor| spirkous liquors is one of the features that characterize the coue- try people, belonging to the interior of the United States. Tliiil passion is so strong, that they desert their homes every now aiid then, to get drunk in public houses ; in fact I do not conceit there 10 out of 100 who have resolution to desist from it a mo- ment, provided they had it by tlieni." In my journey across tlie mountains, 1 did not see a single person drunk, though no doubi there might have been many. There is unquestionably tooniuclil spirituous licjuors drank in the newly settled parts of America, bcij A .very good reason can be assigned for it. The labour otcleiirind the Ituidis rugged and severe, anil the summers heats arc sonictimis •o great that it would be dangerous to drink cold water. This is « truth, whatever philosophers may think of it. Where the coun-j 4ry is entirely new, there are no apples, and consequently no cy- der. Malt liquor v,ill not keep, spirituous liquor* are soon pre- PENNSYLVANIA. SIS pared, and are in fact the only beverage to whicli the settlers have access; and many may, in this way, acquire a hubit, whicli they will not be able afterwards to correct. By and bye, a new set of settlers comes into the country, with more temperate habits; the first class, who may with propriety be called pioneers^ sell their improvements, and move away to clear lands farther back ; the country becomes stocked with fruit for cyder, and materials for malt liquor; and the people are as temperate in their habits, and as correct in their morals, as the inhabitants of either France or England. This district of country was new when Michaux tra- velled through it, and he had seen some instances of intemperance, which no doubt would make u considerable impression on his mind ; but there is no way of accounting for the sweeping con- clusion he draws against the whole of the " country people belong- ingto the interior of the United States," namely, all the farmers, ex- cept by the presumption, that his mind must have been predisposed, in consequence of misinformation received from some prcjudiceil foreigners in the sea-ports, many of whom are ever ready to abuse and vilify the mass of the people in the United States. But we may set it down as a certain truth, that "corruption of morals in the mass of cultivators is a phenomenon of which no age or nation has furnished an example." The expense of travelling by the stage, from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, is 20 dollars, and 12J cents for every pound of luggafro beyond 14. The charges by the way are about 7 dollars. The whole distance is 297 miles, and the stage travels it in 6 davs. The expense of travelling by a waggon is 5 dollars per cwt. for both persons and property ; and the charges by the way are about 12 dollars. A waggon performs the journey in about 20 days. 1 cannot here omit to notice of what importance it would bo to have a good turnpike road across the mountains ; and I was glad to learn that it was probable one would soon be made. Com- missioners were surveying the different lines of road at tlie time repassed, and it was expected they would make their report tn the legislature at their next meeting. From the liberality which that body have lately adopted towards the public concerns of the state, and the ample funds in their hands, there seems to h2 no doubt but this important branch of political economy will receive every encouragement which it deserves ; and, when a good road is |farricd through betwixt Phuadelphia and Pittsburg, it will be at- 40 % n ''» A '4 f 1 '^ j| 314- TRAVELS IN m tended with advantages of which the most sanguine calculator could not at present tbrni an estimate. In surveying the " sublime and beautiful," in the course of this journey, 1 often thought of the Society of Artists in Philadelphia, and wished that some of their amateurs had been along with me to (leiincrtte some of the scenery to embellish this work ; but that ob- ject not being attainable, I must embellish it in the best way I cnn, by giving my readers an account of what they can eat, and what they can drink, and wherewithal they can be clothed; and of what can be done here to procure these articles, so necessary to the siip- jwrt of human life. — ■»<— PW CHAPTER LXVIL Pittsburg, AVIXG formed an acquaintance with my Pittsburg follow-tra- > tilers, whom I found to be very discreet well-informed people, 1 was enabled very soon by their assistance to make myself acquaint- ed with til is part of the country. PinsBURO is situated at the confluence of the Allegany andMo- nongabeki rivers, the junction of which forms the Ohio. It extends about three-quarters of a mile along the Allegany river, and about half a mile along the Monongahela. Tlie scite of the town is nar- row, being hemmed in by hills to the eastward, about half a mile from the Allegany river ; but there is room for it to extend along that river two miles. i The town was first laid out in 1 765 ; but was surveyed and laid out on a new plan in 1784, The plan was meant to accommodate i the town to both rivers; but it is by no means so well designed aj it might have been. I'he streets are generally too narrow, and they cross one another at acute angles, which is both hurtful to the eve J nd injurious to the buildings, llie value of the situation may be tietennined by a notice of the progress of the town. In 1800 ii contained 2iOO inhabitants; in 1807 it containetl about 500 houses; and in 1810 it contained II stone buildings, 283 of brick, and 4'3 uf frame and log : making in all 767 ; and the number of inhabitants was 4768. Pittsburg has, of course, nearly doubled its population iu lOyeart; and there Js every probability that this ratio will couii- ,iji f ■» -ituation may PENNSYLVANU. 315 iiue for a considerable time to come : so that Pittsburg will in aU probability become one of the largest towns In America. The principal public buildings are a court-house, jail, market- house, bank, academy, and 5 places of public worship. There are also several manufactories which may rank as public buildings. A steam mill, built of hewn stone, which can drive 3 pair of stones, ca- pable of grinding upwards of 500 bushels of grain in 24 hours ; 4 glass-houses; several air-funmces ; several breweries and distille- lies; two cotton manufactories, and a number of carding machiiu?*; a white lead manufactory; a wire-drawing nianutactory, wrought by a steam-engine ; an iron grinding mill, and many others. The following enumeration of the professions exercised in Pitts- burg will show the rapid progress that society has made here. Ma- sous and stone-cutters, brick-makers, carpenters, cabinet-makers, coopers, turners, ship and boat builders, machine-makers, wheel- wrights, smiths and nailors, brass founders, copper-smiths tin- smiths, silver-smiths, gun-smiths, cutlers, wire-drawers, wire-work- ers, lock-smiths, screw a.id hinge-makers, clock and watch-makers, button-makers, steam engine-builders, bottle-blowersj wlass-makei-s glass-cutters, looking-glass-makers, taimers, curriers, saddlers, boot and shoe-makers, glovers and breeches -makers, butchers, bakers brewers, distillers, cotton-spinners, weavers, dyers, stocking-makers^ tailors, printers, book -binders, marbled paper-makers, ink pow- der-makers, rope-makers, tobacconists, soap-boilers, candle-maker? brush-makers, comb-makers, potters, painters, and white lead- makers. The manufacturers in all these branches are prosperhig, ond the most of those employed at them are becoming wealthy. Labour is well paid ; a few of the prices may be quoted, Car|>eBters a dol- lar per day; cabhiet-makers are paid by the piece, and they can make above a dollar ; smiths and tanners 12 dollars per month, with iheir board; shoemakers 94? cents for making a pair of shoes, and 2 dollars 50 cents for boots ; shipwrights 1 v a considorable part of the congrcgntion. ■■.-;'1l: ' '• * 'f ! ' k Mi «^ 320 TRAVELS IN Without inquiring who was ri^ht or who was wrong in this trnnsaction, I may notice, that the circumstances connected wiili it involve :v question of the most serious importance to niaii- kintl; antl bear testimony to the value of religious freedom, a^ enjoyed in the United States. The history of all ages proves that the clergy have a strong influence over the mind of the multitude, and this is great in proportion to the ignorance of their hearers. It is dangerous, therefore, to entrust them with more temporal power than belongs to them, in society, as men. They are men of Ukc passions with others, and when those of pride, ambition, or jealousy take the lead of reason, assuredly their extraordinary powers, if they have them, will be abused. Had a similar trial taken place in Spain or Portugal, and the clerical majority been as strong as it was against Mr. Graham in Pittsburg, the victim, so far from being supported by a liberal subscription, and escorted to his lodgings by a number of respectable people, would have been excommunicated and cast out of the true church ; the devil would have been painted on his back ; he would have been led to the stake; and, in the devouring flames, would have glutted the vengeance of the priesthood, amid the unhallowed hallelujahs of their d^ luded votaries. i ' i !;■ CHAPTER LXVIII. Journey to Harmony. X SHALL nov/ introduce by name a fellow-traveller. Dr. Isaac Cleaver, of Philadelphia. This gentleman travelled in the stage with me from Bedford ; we lodged together at Pittsburg; and we now agreed to travel together to visit the Harmonist Society. ^^'ith this view, we })rocured a couple of hacks, very sorry ones, indeed, and set out from Pittsburg, on Monday, the 20th of Au- gust, at 6 o'clock in the morning. We crossed the Allegany by a boat. It is here about 400 yards broad, and the deepest part of it seven feet. The current is gentle, and the water remarkably pure. On the opposite side of the river there is a narrow bottom of very rich land, after passing which we ascended pretty steep hills, and by a rougli road reached a tavern eight miles from the river. The day was now very hot, but we PENNSYLVANIA. 321 caulJonly stop a few minutes, ami moved on six mik'S, to Dixon's tavern, where we found the landlord completely drunk. The day continuing uncommonly hot, we rested licre about half an hour, mil, after travelling about a mile, we reaciieil the plain., so called from being a sort of meadow, and destitute of trees. Mere we were entirely without shade, and the force of the sun nearly over- iwwerecl us. I never recollect to have suffered so much from the heat; and we got no relief till after travelling four miles, when we reached another Uivern at the further end of the plains, where we fouml a sober, industrious family, busily employed in domestic manufactures. The whole country, from Pittsburg to this place, is rather rough and uncultivated ; and land sells at from two to three dollars per acre. Beyond this, as we continued our journey, we found the country to improve, and approaching the precincts of the Harmo- nist Society, we passed some of their well cultivated farms. I lere the road passes over a considerable hill, and on reaching the top, we saw at a little distance the town of Harmony, elegantly situ- ated amid flourishing and well cultivated fiehls. We reached the town at 3 o'clock, and proceeded to the tavern, an excellent stone building, where we found good accommodations. Before I proceed to state our transactions at this place, I shall give an account of the rise and progress of the Harmonist Society. It is chiefly extracted from the appendix to Cumming's Western Tour, published at Pittsburg; and as we had it revised and cor- rected by Mr. Frederic Ilapp, its authenticity may be relied on. " The society had its origin in Wurtember^r, in Oermany, about the year 1785. The Lutheran religion was then predominant in the country, to which every subject was obligetl to submit. No- body durst venture to contradict the laws given by the consistory ; and no person was left free to believe any system of religion to be true, except what was promulgated by teachers appointed by that body. The fundamental principles which Luther deduced from the doctrines of Jesus Christ and his apostles, were almost wholly de- stroyed; and in place of religon being made a principle to regener- ate the mind, and regulate the life, it was converted into an engine of power, to keep the people in check to the civil government. " This decline of the church was seen and felt by George Ilapp, who found himself impelled to bear testimony to the fundamental principles of the christian religion; and he soon got a number of 41 \A'^^ 3'2*i TRA\T.r,S IN ndheronts, who formed thcniselvcs into n society. lint tlicv wcrr des|)i!>eil and persecuted by the consistoiy, who often subjected ihm to fines and imprisonment, because tliey would not go to the iMalv lished church. Hut they persevered, and the persecution they en- dured oncreaseil the members of the society. Under these cir- cumstances they jrroaned for delivcrunce, and wished for a resi- dence ill home part of the worhl, where tlicy iniglit enjoy religious toleration, and be permitted to worship Gon according to tlie dictates of their consciences, unmolested by man. Some proposals were made to allow them a piece of land in France, and at last in their own country ; but the providence of God has ruled tlie matter in another way. He discovered to the society America, as if he had said, " that is the country where you shall serve nic, and where you shall confess my name." Accordingly the society ilctermined unanimously to go to America, and Mr. Rnpp, and some others, were appointed to go before them and seek out an eligible situation in that country. " The deputies arrived in safety at Philadelj)hia in the ycir 1803, and passing into the western country, they fixed on a situ- ation, and wrote to their friends. In the year 1804', the whole society, consisting of 150 or 160 families, embarked in three ves- sels at Amsterdam. One of these arrived at Baltimore, and the other two at Philadelphia, where Mr. llapp was waiting to receive them ; and. from thence they had to take a troublesome overland journey of 320 miles. In November, 40 of these flimilies moved to the westward ; and, notwithstanding the lateness of the season, they built nine log houses, in which they resided during the win- ter. Next spring 50 more families arrived, wliich brought the society to 90 families; and in February, 1805, the society was or- ganized into one body, by a eonsitution grounded on Acts iv. 32. And the mnltilnde of them that believed weie of one heart, ami oj one soul: neither said any of them that aught of the things he ps^ sessed xvas his own, but tuey had all things common. "Thus constituted, they laid out a town, and in comnicniora- tion of their unity of sentiment, and brotherly affection, they call- ed it Harmony; and from henceforth they continued to labour in brotherly association, and in common. This year they built 46 log houses, 1 8 fjet by 24 ; a large barn ; and a grist mill, to which a race was dug of nearly three quarters of a mile in length. 150 acres of ground were cleared for f:orn, 40 for potatoes, ana 15 for meadow. PENNSYLVANIA. 32S «' In 1806 they built un inn, pnrtly of stone, 32 feet by 42, und two stories high ; a frame burn 100 feet long; un oil-mill; n blue- dver's shop ; nnil they sunk a tannery. .100 acres t)f laiiil were cleared for corn, and .W for meadow. " In ISO? they erected a brick .store-hou. •, a saw-mill, and a brew- frv. too acres of land wcTe cleared for grain and meadow, and four acres of vines were planted. 'J'his year they sohl of their produce und manufactures, 600 bushels of grain, niul 3000 gallons of whiskey. "In 1808 they built a meeting-house of brick, 70 feet by 53; a brick dwelling-house, atui some other buildings, and stables for cattle ; a frame barn, 80 fc-et long ; and a bridge 220 feet loni; over the C onaquenesing creek, A considerable (juantity of ground was cleared, and they sold 2000 bushels of grain, und numufac- turcd 1 100 into whiskey. "In 1S09 they built a fulling mill, which does a great deal of bubincss for the country; a hemp mill, an oil mill, a grist mill, a brick warehouse, 46 feet by 30, having a wine cellar, completely arciicd over; and another brick building of the same dimensions. A considerable quantity of laud was cleared. The produce of this year was, 6000 bushels of Indian corn, 4-500 bushels of wheat, 1500 bushels of rye, 5000 bushels of outs, 10,000 bushels of po- tatoes, 4000 lbs. of flax and hemp, 100 bushels of barley brewed iiilo beer, an(•- 3Q6 TRAVELS IN ^mong others, we saw 450 pieces of broad and narrow cloth, part of it of merino woo], and of as good a fabric as any that was over made in England. We were told that they could sell the best broad cloth, as fast as made, at 10 dollars per yard. From the warehouses we went to the Labyrinth, which is a most elegant flower-garden, with various hedge-rows, disposed in such a manner as to puzzle people to get into the little temple, emble- matical of Harmony, in the middle. Mr. Ilapp abruptly left us as we entered, and wc soon observed him over the hedge-rows, taking his scat before the house. I found my way with diflicultj; but the doctor, whom I left on purj.ose, could not find it, anil Mr. Ilapp had to point it out to him. The garden and tcnij/le are emblematical. The Labyrinth represents the difficulty of arriv- ing at Harmony. The temple is rough in the exterior, showinnt that, at a distance, it has no allurements ; but it is smooth and beautiful within, to show the beauty of harmony when once at- tained. From the Labyrinth we went to the Botanic garden, which is well stored with valuable plants and herbs ; and the two doctors pored over them more than an hour. We afterwards went to the doctor's house, where he showed us an elegant collection of plants, all natives of Harmony, which he had carefully arranged agreea- bly to the Linnaean system. In the evening the society assembled to divine service, and we attended, accompanied by our innkeeper, who conducted us to a seat appropriated for strangers. The church was quite full, the number of persons being not less than 500. The women sat all in one end ; the men in the other. They were singing a hymn, in which they all joined with one accord, and so simply, yet so sweetly, did they sing, that it brought to my recollection the pa.i- sage in Burns' Cotter's Satuc'day Night: Tliey chaiint their artles? notes in simple guise, lliey tune their hc&rts, by far the nublest aim. ' After singing, they all knelt down to prayer. We followed their example; and never did I pray more devoutly. I did not under- stand one word of the prayer; but I saw that this interesting so- ciety were under the influence of the spirit of God, and that ** they worshipped him with reverence, and with godly fear." Tears of joy came into my eyes as I exclaimed mcntally» ** This, indeed, is true Christianity ; — this, unlike the solcnm PENNSYLVANIA. 827 w clotli, part that wjis ever sell the best lich is a most losecl ill such mple, cmble- iruptly left us c heilgc-roNvs, ,'ith difllculty ; t find it, and sn and tcmiile iculty of arriv- erior, showing is smooth and when once at- rdcn, which is le two doctors •ds went to the iction of plants, •anged agreea- 2rvice, and we inducted us to quite full, tbe 1 women sat all Inging a hymn, simply, yet so llcction the pa»- le followed their I did not under- interesting so- bod, and that )h godly tear." [med mentally, Ike the solemn mockfiries of interested priests, who have turned religion into a trade, and the temple of the Lord into a den of thcivcs — this U worshipping God in spirit and in truth. It contributes to true felicity here, and prepares the soul for consummate bliss hereafter." After prayer, Mr. Rapp delivered a sermon witli great animation, to which all the congregation paid the most devout attention ; after which, with a short prayer and benediction, he dismissed the assembly. Our guide told us to remain a little, as they had, on our ac- count, requested the band of music. to attend. They assembled before the pulpit with their various instruments, namely, threu violins and a bass, a clarinet, a flute, and two French horns. On these they entertained us with a great viriety of airs, the most of them of the solemn kind, and some of them accompanied by vocal music. After our return to the inn, we heard tlic night-watch calling, "Again ad y i« past, and a step made nearer to our end; our time runs u ind the joys of Heaven arc our reward." Tlicy repeat the • ' sentence at 11, 12, 1, and 2 o'clock, and at 3 they call, " ^igain a night is past, and the morning is come ; our time runs away, and the joys of Heaven are our reward." The town is watched by two men, and the society take it by turns. It falls, at present, on each l^ nights in the year ; the watching of the sheep tails on each one night. August 22d. This day, accompanied by the society's doctor, we went to see the mills and machinery. In out way we passed through one of the vineyards, which is situated on the face of a steep hill, on the north side of the creek, and is converted into a number of terraces, supported by walls of stone, in the manner that they cultivate the hills in China. We ascended by a regu- lar flight of 137 steps; and from the top we had a fine view of the Iwhole settlement, and of the country round. We were told it jwas the intention of the society to build a little temple here, to be jcalled Harmony Hall, where they would occasionally practise Inuisic. From thence we went to the eastward about a mile, Itliroiigh a wood, and came to a cultivated valley, through v> liidi Iruns Little Conaquenesing creek. Here the society have built a Substantial stone house, in which are a grist-mill, a hemp-mill, an uil-mill, a fulling-mill, and a carding machine. In the oil-mill lliry crush pumpkin-seed, which yields good oil, and food for the 'km H- 32S TRAVELS IN cattle. We crossed over the valley, which ubuuiided with grain clover, and hemp, about a mile, to Large Coiiaqiienesii)g cieik where the masons and labourers were at work building a very ele- gant mill of. hewn stone, which, when finished, will be a most im- portant addition to the society's improvements. It is impossible to convey any adequate idea of the diligent industry and pcrsevcr- ance of this extraordinary people : wherever we went we found them all activity and contentment. Here, at a situation where they could not carry the clay for bedding the dam in wheel- barrows, they were carrying it iu baskets upon their backs ; but they have every in- ducement to perseverance — they are all on an equal footing — cvciy member is equally interested in the good of the society. In this neighbourhood the society have a village, where the doc- tor having to visit a patient, who was the supeiintendant, we ac- companied him. On entering the house we found the family at din- ner, and we were invited to partake of it. We did not much like the appearance of the dish, which was called noodles; but on tast- ing it we found it to be very palatable, and on it, and some eggs, with bread and milk, we made a very excellent dinner. Xoodks is made in this way : a quantity of flour is kneaded into a paste, and is cut into small slices ; these are mixed with small pieces of beef or mutton, and they are boiled together, with or without seasoning, as the taste of the cook may determine. We returned to the town, about a mile and a half distant, and in our way passed the brick-works and burial-ground ; which laft is prettily situated on a sloping ground, railed in : but no grave* stones are erected, — the plan of the society being to ornament it with flowers. In the course of our journey the doctor told us a remarkable a- necdote. One of the boys at school was observed, ©ne day, to weep, and on being asked wh.it was the matter, he said he was afraid lii' had been very wicked. A number of the others cau^'^ht the infection, and began also to cry. It ultimately pervaded the whole scliool, and nothing would satisfy the children until they called on Mr. Ilapp, the pastor, and made a confession of their transgressions. From the young, the spirit of contrition fell upon the more maturul in years, who, one by one, waited upon Mr.Kapp, to make their con- fession. Of the number was the doctor, who told us he found him- self impelled by an impulse which was irresistible to vait on Mr I Kapp also : to him he laid open his whole heart ; on which the oWj PBNNSVLVAKIA. S29 ed with grain, enesing cretk ing a very el^ be a most im- [t is impossible ^ and perscvcr- we found them lierc they could rows, they were have every in- footing — evciy ety. where the iloc- cndant, we ac* le family at din- d not much like es ; but on tast- and some eggs, nncr. Noodles jd into a paste, lall pieces of beef ithout seasoning, man pressed him to his bosom, told him that now he knew hia whole soul, and those of the other members of the society, he had perfect confidence in them, and was assured tlrat tliey would persevere in the good work they had begun, which would be a life of heavenly joy and rejoicing in this world, and it would terminate in a state of everlasting felicity in the next. Ob our return to the village we went to sec the bee-hives. They were situated in a shed, built on purpose, with a southern exposure, and a flowering shrubbery was in front of them. There were a- boot 40 hives, and they appeared all in a thriving condition, and equally industrious with their employers ; who, in retm'n, bestowed great attention upon them, and took the produce of their surplus hbour without destroying their lives. We were informed that the society got a considerable quantity of their materials for manufactures from their own produce, and from the country round. Wrought iron they ^tt from Pitts- burg, and cast iron irom Beaver. They keep an assortment of dry- goods and groceries, which they get principally from Philadelphia ; iUid,as they dispose of them at a moderate profit, they have an ex- tensive sale in the country. They dress cloth to the country people from 50 to €0 miles distant. The town of Harmony is situated on the south side of Conaque- nesing creek, and the property of the society extends round it ; to the west about half a mile; to the east two miles and a half; to the north about tiir^e miles ; and to the south three miles. They have about 9000 acres of land, of which 2500 acres are in a state of cul- tivation; and, besides the town, they have three fiimiing villages, and some farmers in detached parts of the settlement. The land is pretty fertile, producing abundantly grain, grass, fruit, vegeta- bles, hemp, and flax. The town ig regularly laid out. There is a square of 75 by 100 feet, in the middle; and three streets run cast and west, and three north and south, crossing one another at right angles. The main street is 50 feet wide, and the others S2 feet. The town is subdivid- ed into lots of a quarter of an acre each, and every family has its own house and lot, with a couple of milk cows, and as many hogs and poultry as they choose to keep. The rest of their provisions, and their clothing, is iurnisdicd by the society ; in return, their la- bour falls into tlie common stock* Hence every family is, in effect, independent within itself, as far as domestic arrangemCJits arc con- 42 '!*.. 330 TUAvELS IN ceriied ; and tiicy arc nil united, at the same time, in a body, the joint effect of whose labour is irresistible. The town at present con- iiists mostly of log-houses ; but as soon as the public buildings are finished, a brick-house is to be built for each member. The society now consists of about 800 persons ; and the operative members are nearly as follow : 100 farmers, three shepherds, lo masons, three stone-cutters, three brick-makers, 10 carpenters, two sawyers, 10 smiths, two waggon-makers, three turners, two nailors, seven coopers, three rope -makers, 10 shoemakers, two saddlers, three tanners, seven taylors, one soap-boiler, one brewer, four dis- tillers, one gardener, two grist-millers, two oil-millers, one butcher six joiners, six dyers, dressers, shearers, &c., one fuller, two hatters, two potters, two warpers, 17 weavers, two carders, eight spinners, one rover, one minister of religion, one schoolmaster, one doctor, one store-keeper with two assistants, and one tavern-keeper with one assistant. The basis of the society is religion, and all their temporal con- cerns are managed in subserviency to it. The greater part of the people were bred in the Lutheran persuasion, and their views of re- ligion are nearly in conformity to it ; but the principles which bind them together as a society may be shortly expressed : love to god- goodwill TOWARDS MEN — PURITY OF LIFE — AND A COMMUNITY OF GOODS. The pastor is considered as having the call of God ; his prayers and sermons are delivered extempore : and if he be in- disposed or absent, the society meet and confer on religious sub- jects. He is assisted in themanagementof the religious concerni by elders and deacons appointed by the society. The youth of the society are kept at school until they are 14 years old. The school huurs are in the forenoon, and the afternoon is de- voted to such labour as they can easily p'^rform, it being a branch of the economy of the society to teach the youth to labour as well as to read and write. They are taught both the German and Enghsh languages, with writing and Arithmetic, and such as may be des- tined for the study of medicine will receive a college education. At 14? the male youths make choice of a profession, and learn it where it is carried on in the society. The females, at the same age, are occupied in the usual branches of female labour. • On Sunday the society meet in their religious capacity, at 9 o'clock, in the school -room, to examine the children, who exhibit different specimens of their performances. This ends about 11. PENNSYLVANU.' S3\ They meet in the church at 12, when they go through the same ex- ercises as those before noticed, which lasts about an hour and a half. Tliey have another meeting at 6 o'clock in the evening ; and besides the meetings on Sunday, they have a sermon two nights in the week. There is no instance of the church being- neglected by those who are well and able to walk. It is their delight to attend it, and die religious and moral deportment of the whole society is highly praiseworthy. There is no vicious habit among them. There is not an instance of swearing, or lyin^^ or debauchery of any kind J and as to cheating, so commonly practised in civilized society, they have no temptation to it whatever. As individuals, they have no use for money — and they have no fear of want. The temporal concerns are conducted in a very orderly manner, having supcrintendants in each branch, who manage them under the general direction of the society. There are five master farmers, one master mason, one master shoemaker, (who cuts out all the lea- ther,) one master taylor, and so on of the other branches. Freder- ick Rapp superintends the manufacturing establishment ; and has the general direction, under the society, of all the money matters, and mercantile concerns. When the society was first established here, the whole of their property, after defraying their expences, amounted to only about 20,000 dollars, and this was soon exhausted in the payment of thelafiJ, and in supporting themselves until they could bring their industry into operation. Thus, without money, and without credit, they suffered great privations, m consequence of which a number of their members shrunk from the difficulty, and retired into the state of Ohio, to provide for themselves in a separate capacity. As they required what they had put into the common stock, the so- ciety were tli n into s6me difficulty to raise it; but they got it accomplished, uiid they have now drawn up written articles, to be signed by those who join them, calculated to prevent any inconve- nience of that kind in future. By those articles, such as may choose vo retire are entitled to demand all that they put into the concern by certain instalments, but no interest. Any person may join the society, and the mode of doing so is equally simple with all their other regulations. The candidate intimates his intention, and is received upon trial, for one month, during which he Jives at the tavern. If he is then satisfied, and chooses to conform to their principles of morality, (they have no religious test,) he is forthwith •■■■I ''!«*.«.»,- h .t ^r ,' ^i* ', ir I; CI 332 TRAVELS tM re^scivod as a member, and in entitled to all the privileges of the iq. cjety. If he is fidi, he deposites all his property in the coranion stock : if he is poor, " he has no lack ;" alt his wants are supplied out ot* that stock. The stock of the society we estimated as follows : POOO acres of laud, with improvements dot. 90,OOo Stock of provisions for one year, for 800 persons 25,00o Mills, machinery, and piiblic buildings 21,ooo Dwelling houses 18,ooo Horses, cattle, hogs, and poultry » 10,000 1000 sheep, one-third of them merinos, of which one ram cost 1000 dollars 6,000 Stock of goods, spirits, manufactures, leather, implements of husbandry, &c. &c. 50,000 dol. 220,000 It may be remarked, that the society purchased then: land for about 20,000 dollars, so that 70,000 doli, 3 of the rise is upon it; but they have cleared 2500 acres, which adds to the value of the rest, and the rise of the land in this way is always a favourable circumstance to new settlers, who, on the other hand, have many privations to undergo. It has been doubted whether the society will continue united, on which alone depends their prosperity. From the principles on which the connexion is formed, and the objects they have in view, I am of opinion they will not only continue united, but that they will, in all probability, be a model for other societies. If their union continue, their prospects arc bright indeed, both for time and eternity. Here they have the mutual aid of each other, and are free from a thousand temptations to which mankind in general are subjected. Having no fear of want, they have literally no care for the mor- rpw J they have no use for money, "the love of which is the root of all evil ;" they can attend to the worship of the great spirit with single hearts, and undivided minds, and all the duties of life are easy, because they go hand in hand with self-interest ; in health they have the fellowship of people of the like mind with themselves; in sickness they have the advice and assistance of friends, on whom they can rely with perfect confidence; of a medical man who can have no wish but to render them a service; and of a minister ol 9ENKSYLVAMA. 333 religion to pour tho balm of spiritual consolation into tlieir wound- ed spirittt, *' without money, and without price ;" at death they can rffign their of!«pring to the charge of the society, in the full con- fidence of their well-being ; which lunglc circumstuiice disarms the trt'm messenger of more than half his terrors. And the purity of their life havmg fitted them for the enjoyment of God, they can resign their spirits into the hands of the merciful Father of spirits ; aiid their bodies being consigned to the dust, among the abodes of their brethren, their graves are io many memorials of their virtues. On taking my leave, I breathed forth my best wishes for the prosperity of this interesting society, in the words of my favouvito bard- May frtedom, harmony, and lure, Unite you in the grand design, Beneath the Omniscient eye above, The glorious Architect divine ! That you may keep th' unerring linq, ': Still rising by the plummet's law, Till order bright comjtletelj shine, Shall be my prayer when far awa'. ' We rode round by ZelLonople, half a mile from Harmony, where the society first attempted to fix their town ; but some differ- ence happening between them and the proprietor of the grounds, they moved to the eastward, where they are now situated ; and Ze- lionople looks like " a deserted callage," having a few miserable wooden houses only. On our return, my travelling companion, who was remarkably agreeable, pointed out a great number of valuable plants and herbs, and gave me a little insight into the important science of botany; but I found the field t^o extensive, that I was obliged to de- cline following up the study till a mpre convenient season. I em- braced the opportunity however of remarking to my friend, that it would be an object of great scientific importance to the United States, if some fit person would make a botanicri and mineralogi- cal tour ; and I was convinced he would be very well rewarded for his trouble by the public. My friend acquiesced in my opinion, find stated that nothing would give him more pleasure than to exe- cute such a tour, of which he had some indention at a future peiiod. We reached Pittsburg at 9 o'clock at n'ght, when, delivering up our " sorry Iiacks," we pursued our way to our old lodgings. 33k TRAVELS ON CHAPTER LXIX. Ohio Itivevt — Beaver^ — Georgetcwn, — Stubenvillc. I NOW prepared to descend the Ohio. There arc various wayi of travelling on that river, and the traveller must adapt himselt to one or other of these, according to the state of the water. In spring and fall the river is high, and can be navigated with ease by any vesseL The spring freshets commence about the middle of February, at the breaking up of the ice, and continue for three, sometimes four months. Those in the fall commence in Octoler, and continue till the middle or latter end of December. But the state of the river varies according to the wetness or dryness of the seasons, and the earlincss or lateness of the setting in of the winter.* The principal vessels used for descending the Ohio, are canoes, skiffs, Kentucky and New Orleans boats, keel boats, and barges. Ships have been constructed on the Ohio, of considerable burden ; but that trade is at present nearly suspended, and the steam-boats have not yet gone into operation. Canoes are the most simple of all vessels, and consist of a log of wood shaped into a long boat, and excavated in the middle, so as to accommodate passengers and their travelling equipage. They sell for from one to three dollars. - Skiffs are well known, lliey are built of all sizes, are used with or without sails, and can be had for from 5 to SO dollars. Kentucky and New Orleans boats are flats, with sides boarded like a house, about six or seven feet high, over which there is an arched roof. They are of various sizes, but generally large enough to contain 400 barrels of flour ; and sell for from one dollar to a dollar and a half per foot in length. Keel-boats, so called from being built upon a small keel, are con- structed to draw but little water, so that they are remarkably well adapted to the navigation of these rivers, and as they are strongly manned, and ply both upward and downward, they are getting into general use, and are perhaps the best passage boats on the Ohio. The price of them is about two and a half or three dollars per foot. Barges are well known. They also sail up and down the river; • Pittsburg Navigator. '* ^t mville. re various wayi adapt himselt the water. In ated with ease t the middle of inue for three, ce in Octoler, nber. But the dryness of the Lting in of the iO) are canoes, its, and barges. erablc burden ; the steani'boats isistof a log of middle, so as uipage. They are used with ars. sides boarded 1 there is an large enough nc dollar to a keel, arecon- narkably well ?y are strongly re getting into on the Ohio. (liars per foot. )wn the river; ^fv n If |i? * '■^?fc*- VlXt 7U •J^V^ )/^»^ 'k 0^'- ■ W- ■ •t 'tV^ ■, . ^r^!- W-" L« P.- li ^.•nsMfi '* h'^ 'if. ■■•J'^v>-'i^M^' -•^'-n-- ■ S^jgJg; *hii- ■I*. '»>♦, 4 . \ fc •■ ^4rt--:i(*' 11] >» y. % *!f't ' >>■)' •A -i mr] m. rHJ ^\ aii: t^.Zivfu . FALLS of OHIO "ear, warm, and THI OHIO RIVKR. 335 lMiithiiip«cics of vessel i« principally used below Cincinnati and Tbc water was very low when I was at Pittsburg, and was still tubsidiiig; and I learned that it was with difficulty timt any vessel could descend, except a skiff. A Mr. Ward, from Massachusscts, had made the attempt in a keel-bout, but it was set fast, and he was obliged to return to Pittsburg. I found that he had made an arrangement with the Frenchman, my former fellow-traveller, to go with him in a skiff; and I made interest to be of their partv, and was admitted. The Frenchman was an original genius. He nad travelled r hzcon. I ham, two loaves of bread, and some cheese, which ^v^* piit \u a box; a quantity of crackers, some whiskey, and a sm^U cask of porter. These articles, together with our trunks, we put on board the skiff, and stepping on board ourselves, in the Moaon^vt^.-ela river, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we got under weigh. Ihrnri-^ I no wind, we had to man our oars; and, the river being low, we Ihad but little assistance from the current. The banks of the river are steep, and rise to a conpidcrtible ele« iTaiion, when there is generally a body of level ground od each side, Icalled bottoms, from whence the river hills rise t(^ ihe. i^ei {'it ol' Ifrom 200 to 500 feet. The bottoms are very various in exttri», liome of them being a mile broud, and others o li^- a few yards. a deposite of rich earth from the river, tbey are very fertile. On entering the Ohio, we had a finj. view of the two rivers of Iwhich it is composed, and of the remarkable contrast between their haters; those of the Monoii^uhela being muddy, and those of tij« lAllegany quite pure and transparent. The distinction can be ■noticed a considerable way down the Ohio. The Ohio is here about ) yards broad, and its course is north-west. The afternoon was iear, warm, anid pleasant; and we had an agreeable sail, during *liich wc passed several islands, to a small tavern on the riglit i:,'m fit! 556 TRAVELS OK " hand, 12 miles from Pittsburg, where we stopped for the niplif. The lands thus far are, to une a common expression here, all taken up, and the price is about 10 or 12 dollars per acre. The scenery is rich, and the banks of the river abound with coal and freestone. The principal timber is walnut, cherry, hickory, and sycamore. August 2*th. This morning we started at 6 o'clock. The fog was so thick on the river thnt we could hardly see 10 yards round us. Thfc thermometer stoocl at 54** in the air, and 74® in the water. We engaged a young man to take us over a bar, here called a rip- ple, a little way below, and taking the oars, he carried us alon«T verr swiftly. As our appetites iV^re a little whetted by the water air,ve looked to our provisions, and behold, bur large ham was gone! We accused the dogs ; but the young man bore testimony to their honesty, and told us it must have been stolen by the wolves. It was the wolves sure enough. We discovered the tracks of Ihei. feet upon the skiff, and some of their strong hair was found upon the box, which we thence calletl the >wolf-box ,- and bur Frenchman consoled himself for the loss of oiir ham by cursing and damning the wolves, Th6 day cleared up about 8 o'clock, when we stopped for break- fast at the plantation of a Mi*. McDonald, who told us his father was a Scotsman. I le had a good plantation, oh a fine bottom ; but it had been ktely overflowed by the rivfer, which swept away the fences, and otherwise greatly injured the property. Aftfer breakfast we were overtaken by ah Indian canoe, and we entered into conversation with the natives, who we found could talk the English language quite fluently. We learned that they were from the neighbourhood of Utica, in the state of New York, where the Indians are considerably improved in agriculture, and they were urnler the direction of a society of qirakers, on a mission to White Water river, in the Indiana territoiy, to teach that sci- ence to an Indian tribe settled there. We sailed together to Bea- ver, 30 miles below Pittsburg, wi'iere we stojiped a short time, and en/'aged one of them to pull our b in all probability, douUe its population in 10 years. :-*tij • » _ .r TRB OHIO RIVBR. M i^". r " CHAPTER LXX. Wheelings — Long Reach^ — T/IaHetta. > > ^ •' < August 26th, we left SteuljenviUe about 8 o'clock; the mora* ing was foggy ; the temperature of the atmosphere 60*. We pro* ceeded down the river three miles, when, Mr. Ward having some inquiries to make, we stopped at a very handfiome plantation, situ- ated OH the Ohio side, on an extensive bottom, which raised corn, oats, l)arley, hemp, wheat, and rye, in great abundance ; and there was a peach orchard literally loaded with fruit. " There was e- nougli, and, to spare," here, of both clingstones and Jiee-stoncs^ and having ate heartily, we took a supply in our boat. On moving off from the bank an Irishman of the name of Hanlon requested W9 would carry him about two miles, and land him on the other side of the river, which we agreed to, and he gave us a good deal of in- formation regarding that part of the country. He told us tliat he was a boat-builder, and had removed from Philadelphia to this country, where he had resided five years. He liked this country much better than Philadelphia, principally on account of its tem- perate climate, and the ease with which he could procure a liveli- hood. The summers here are much cooler, and the winters much warmer than to the eastward. He could make one dollar 50 cents per day, and the expense of boarding was only one doliar 50 cents per week. Six miles from Steubenville we passed Charleston, a neat little place, situated on the Virginia side, on a high bank. We did not land here ; but we were told it was an excellent flour market, which commodity sells at present at four dollars per barrel. We dined by the way on broiled chickens, which we purchased at Steuben- ville, for six and a quarter cents each ; and after a very agreeable ttil we reached Wheeling, 23 miles from Steubenville, at iivo o'clock in the evening. •^:..■. On landing here, we found the Indian canoe had got l>eforc us, and our rower went to join his companions. The master of the boat came and informed us, that his man was not to pull any more for us, because we had not used him well. We were surprised, and inquired what was the matter. It was simply this — we had not glveu liim vohhkey enough. We had noticed that he frequently ■A, .1 .■■■■■'{ -- <■ -< J " " 840 TKAVITLS ON stopped, and called out *' I tire, I tire," which we thought im. possible, as he was a very stout fellow, and required an e^^planation. " O, rae no tire," says he, " what you call tire ; when I say / /jVr, then that is, I want phisket/." A spiritual explanation, faith ! Vit increased his libation, but hot to an extent, it appeared, to meet his magnificent ideas, dnd his red worship was quite dissatisfied that we poured it out for him in a glass; he must have the whole tsottle, forsooth, to his head I This however we would not indulge him in. The truth is, we had laid it down as a rule to be very circumspect in giving him whiskey, and, though we liad given hini a great quantity in all, #e gave him but a moderate dose at a time, and it was always diluted with water. The Indian did not half Hke this, and made the complaint to his captain already noticed. As we found him to be useful, we were unwilling to part with him for a trifle, so, after paying his wages, we promised to give him the bottle to his head next day, every time he cried " I tire," and he agreed to continue with us. But the wages never found the way to the bottom of his Indianship's pocket; it was instantly laid out in whiskey, and in a short time he appeared 08sc8sing in its appearance. Some ponds in the neighbourhood of the town had polluted the air, and a great many of the inhabitants had been seized with a bilious fever, and fever and ague ; being the first sickness I had heard of since 1 passed the banks of the Susquehanna. n'v * '/r ; y - ^t y% rv • The improvements do not seem to keep pace on the Virginia side, with those in the state of Ohio, and it is very questionable whether this will ever be a place of much consequence, although the situation appears favourable, the great road to the western country passing through it. But the existence of slavery is a damp- CT upon the operations of the white people, " who will not work if ihcy have slaves to work for them," and, idleness being the parent of vice, society degenerates : good men seek out a situation more congenial to the practice of virtue, apd " evil men and scducew wax worse and worse." -- ..'''.•>-'/.» ).m*t hy. .^ = As we stood upon the beach at this place, a large bkiffdrcw to» TIIE OHIO SIVER. 341 wards the shores in which the proprietor had four negro childrei^ the oldest about 14| the youngest about 4 years of age. He told us that he had left his home, in Maryland, with the children, and their fiitber and mother, in order to carry them down the river, to fi market. Finding that he could dispose of the man by the way to advantage, he hod sold him. The night after, the woman (vhom he reproacheil as an unnatural wretch for leaving her chil- dren) bad ran away, and he was obliged to go on with the children without her ! The three youngest had not reflection enough to feel their loss ; they jumped out of the boat, and played about upon the sand : they were pretty children. But the eldest sat in the boat, the emblem of heart-rending grief and despair ! — I do noC know that in the whole course of my life I ever had my feelinga so severely tried. I hid my face with my hands, that those accus- tomed to such scenes might not perceive my weakness, and with a heavy heart walked towards the inn, praying that the Merciful Dis. poser of all things would, in the coarse of his providence, provide for these poor innocents, who are doomed to slavery, a more gentle master than the hard-hearted man who at present possessed an ab- iolute dominion over them.- Tuesday, the 27th of August. We started at 8 o'clock. TTie fflorniog had been foggy, but was now clear. The thermometer sk)od at 60**. The scenery on the river continues nearly the same as above ; the banks are high, with pretty large bottoms, particu* lu-lyon the Virginia side. We tried to accommodate matters with our friend the Indian, but without effect. We found he was "/^^" every quarter of an hour, and, as often as lie put the bottle to his bead, he beckoned to his companions to come along side, and the"phiskey" went round the whdegang before we could get it back again. Th^y swallowed half ^. gallon of it in the course of a few hours, which did not comport with our economical mode of travelling, at all^ at all ; and we were soon deprived of our In- dian's service too ; for he was drunk by 12 o'clock, and lay like a great lump of mortal pollution in the boat; so we were glad to I ton iiim into the Indian canoe ^ like a bag of oats ;" and, taking what the sailors call " spell aiul spell about" of the oars ourselves^ I ve moved on with considerable celerity. A little after dark, we reached Dickasson's tavern, on the Virginia side, where we stopped I all night. ^vc we wore iufurffled that th« country is but little cultivated ^ 'M 3i3 ' TRAVBt* OJI back from the river, and those who lived in it wished to be on the river side, to have the benefit of a market. Land on the river n worth from 8 to 10 dollars, pa'.tly improved; but some sells a) high as 15 or 20 dollars. Horses are worth from 20 to 70 dollars. cows from lO to H dollars. Fish are plenty in the river, but they do not catch many, having hogs and poultry in great plenty. There are no musquetocs, nor other troublesome insects, in this part of the country. There are a variety of medicinal herbs here, particularly snake-root and ginseng. The Ohio freezes here in winter; but there is very little sncw. '**^ '^i-f m^ ; *v - August 28th, at 6 o'clock, we left Mr. Dickasson's. The morn- ing was foggy ; the thermometer stood at 64". The fog soon cleared away, and wc observed that the country had now become more level, and the river was about 100 yards broader than at Pittsburg. Having arrived at Long Reach, we had a variety of cliarmin'* views, and about the middle of it we stopped to dinner, on the Virginia side, at the house of a Mr. Wells, who has a thriving plantation, and an industrious family. Every thing indicated good order in the fields, and, in the house, the women were very busj fabricating cotton cloth, with which the whole family ^werc sub> stantially clad. By a copy of the census, which hung up in the room, it appeared that there were not many slaves in that part of Virginia. The white population in the country amounted to 7711; the free blacks 52 ; slaves 422. Long Reach is 16^ miles in length. The river is nearly straight the whole of the distance, and it embodies some fine island«. No* thing can exceed the variety and beauty of the views on the river here. The water is as clear and smooth as glass, and the fields, on I each side, are richly clad with fine timber, which, at a distance, appears to overshadow tl»e river, and produces a fine effect. On I looking up or down the stream, the eye roams along the pure ex- panse of water, which appears gradually to contract in breadth, and finally to be lost in a point in the woods. As we proceeded along this delightful reach, the afternoon be- came very sultry, and, seeing a fine peach-orchard on the Ohio side, we pulled i) wards it, to get into the shade of the trees. The people Were mashing peaches, preparing to make peach-brandy, and one of them, learning that a New England man was in company, saluted us with great cordiality, and led us through the peach-or* j chard, and such an orchard I never saw before j the trees vert | tHl OHIO RIVER. 345 ich-or* vert flcQtatively groaning itnder their burden, and hundreds of busliels were lying on the ground. It was no sin to eat peaches here ; and ihev were really delicious. The proprietor told us he was from Connecticut, that he had been a considerable time settled here, and could maintain his fami- ly as well on the labour of one day in the week, as he could in Connecticut in all the six. Those who were industrious, he said* could not fail to lay up a comfortable stock for old age, and for posterity. He informed us, that for the few fir%t years the la- bour was pretty rugged and severe, as thoy had to cut down the woods, and prepare the lands, during which time they were con- tented with very indifferent lodgings ; but food being very easily procured, they always lived well. He said, when he came hero first, the country was literally a wilderness, and we now saw the progress it had made in 10 years. The first settlers were selling their improvements, and moving off; while men of capital were coining in, and making elegant improvements, and, in 10 years more, the banks of the river here would be beautiful. The Ohio side, he said, was thriving remarkably ; the Virginia side not near w well ; and he assigned the operation of slavery as the principal reoion, which I believe to be correct. He mentioned that the crop of peaches never failed on the Ohio, and the trees came to maturi- ty in three years. Fifteen bushek make 6 gallons of brandy, and they sell it at from 37i lo 50 cents per gallon* When they keep it till old, they get a little more. The country is all healthy here, and this man's family looked fully as rosy as the young folks in Con« necticut, and much more plump. We moved down the river 7 miles, and stopped all night on the Ohio side, with a new settler, from Maryland. The lodgings were indifferent ; but they were cheerfully given, and the landlord would make no charge. August 29th. We started at 6 o'clock. Tlie morning was clear. The temperature was 68°. Seven miles from where we started, we stopped at the house of a Mr. Battelles, from New England; and here we observed some as fme cheeses as I ever saw any where. They were priepared for the river market, and sell for sbout 12 to 15 cents per lb. We were now out of Long Reach, isnd drawing towards an island, called the Three Brothers, where I was preparing my mind for a wonderful scene, first noticed by M English squire of the name of Ashe, who travelled in these parts sonic five or six years ago, and met with marvellous advan> L ■■* ■•■,'■ i 344 TRAVFLi ON '^ tures. Mr. Asho thus describes a fall in the rivdr : ** I arrhy «t a chain of islands called the Brothers, ran down the right band channel, and, on reaching the foot of the last island^ pcrcciTed a fall in the river, and that the current wore through it in the form of a Z. The channel ims x^ery little broader than the boat, confined between rocks, the slightest touch would dash her to pieces. I ordered the man to keep a steady stroke, not on any account to abandon the oars, or to be alarmed at the noise of the flood. The boat instantly took the first suction of the fall, increased in velocity to a great degree, passed tiirough all the mazes of the channel, till she came to the last descent, when, tum< 1)|ing, tost, and regardless of her helm, she spun round and round, and at length shot ahead down the stream. Astonishing country I Here again the hills subsided, the face of nature smiled, the cur* rent diffused, and the river became a perfect calm. On looking back to contemplate the danger I had Just escaped, I could but faintly see the foaming surge, or hear the horrid clamour. / nem experienced a more evettt/id moment than in the passage of that FALL !** The reader, who has any faith in Mr. Ashe's testimony, will easily judge of my anxiety in approaching this /all ,- but what was my surprize, when I came to the foot of the last island, to find no Jail at all ! The river was nearly half a mile broad, without any other interruption than that mentioned in the Pitts* I burg Navigator : <* Just below the third Brother is a small wil- low island, and a sand bar ; channel near the right shore." And I yet this is magnified by Mr. Ashe into a most tremendous k to be passed only with immense difficulty and danger ! Whiit | powerful imaginations some people have ! Nine miles below this we passed the mouth of Little Muskin- gum river, and four miles further we reached Marietta^ at which I I proposed to stop some days. ■ in CHAPTER LXXl. Marietta,-^OhiQ Company s purchase, — Marietta District. .M. ARIETTA is very handsomely situated at the confluence the Muskingum and Ohio rivers, of both of which it commands tl fine view. ITiat part of the town which lies next the Ohio A THE OHIO RIVER. 345 elevated above the bed of the river 45 feet, and yet such is the rite of the water in some seasons, that it has been twice flooded ; on which account the town has lately increased most towards the north-west, on a second bank, and a considerable number of buildings have lately been erected on the opposite side of the Mus- kioguai, which is some feet higher than the lower bank on tha east side. The whole is handsomely laid out, and there is a great- er portion of public ground for walks than is to be found about most of the towns in this country. Marietta was laid out by the Ohio Company, about 21 years ago, and was intended as the metropolis of the New England western settlements. For a number of years it flourished in a very eminent degree, increasing in commerce, wealth, and splendour, and, though nearly 2000 miles from the ocean, ship-yards wore erected, and ship-building carried on with spirit. But, of late, its commerce and ship-building has ceased, and it is now a dull place, though inhabited by a gay, lively people, mostly natives of Massachussetts. Its population is 1 463. Marietta contains a number of handsome buildings on the Maus- sachusetts plan, which is elegant, light, and comfortable. The principal public building is a very handsome church. A bank was established in 1807, and a steam-mill was building when I was there, which may be the foundation for a new system of poli- cy, to be afterwards noticed, that may be highly advantageous to the town. There are several taverns and stores. * »^^ .-* From the circumstance of the town being settled by people from the commercial state of Massachusetts, the spirit of foreign com- merce seems to have long prevailed among them. They were suc- cessful in it for some time, and notwithstanding the total change of circumstances, they yet view it with a fond partiality, and have not thoroughly seen that a change of circumstances has called for a change of policy, of which no people can better avail themselves than those of Marietta. They are sober, indnstrious, intelligent, and discreet; and their country abounds with materials for manu- facturing. Sheep thrive amazingly well ; cotton they can procure from Tennessee, for 14 or 15 cents per pound. Coal, iron, and limestone, they can have in any quantity, and every other mate- I rial may be had on as good terms as at Pittsburg ; while, from the great quantities of fine land on the Muskingun, and the rapi J I •ettlements on that river, I think provisions must continue to be •♦eu 44 '■mi 34(5 THAV£LS ON lower than nt Pittbburj^. Should the people of Murietta) tllcr^ fore, commence the manufacturing system, I think it probable, that it will become ti flourishing place, os it certainly is a vcr\ l)cautiful, and n very pleasant one ; but so long as the allow ideai of a furein;n commerce, isohich is gone, to fetter their minds, it will hang like a luilLstonc round their necks, and prevent all improve- mentii. Indeed 1 think the new system is begun. I noticed tiie steam-mill ; the original design of it was to prepare flour iind Indian meal, but the proprietors propose also to introduce cotton and wool carding and spiiniing. Flour was four dollars per barrel; beef four cents per pound; and other provisions were upon an average, about 10 per cent. cheaper than at Pittsburg. The state of society is such as might be expected in a colony from Massachussets. With their morals and manners I was high* )y pleased, and their system of education, being foundeil on the same plan as that of the parent state, requires no illustration. The country round is very handsome : to the south-west there arc pretty high hills, and the country is rugged and*barreu ; there are also some hills to the north, but of no great elevation ; there is a large tract of bottom land on the banks of the river, above the town ; and there ore some very rich bottoms on the Muskingum, but they are of no great extent ; and the hills a long way up that liver are very rough, but may in process of time be converted into excellent sheep-farms. Mr. Ward, my fellow-traveller, was very attentive in showing; me the place, and in introducing me to a number of the principal inhabitants. This being the residence of the governor of the state, we waited on him : but he had not leisure at that time for much conversation. Mr. Ward afterwards informed me by letter, that he had sent me a card of invitation to spend an evening with hiii family, but I was gone before it came to hand, and I regretted that 1 lost an opportunity of receiving tlie valuable information which would have been afforded by an evening's conversation with a gentleman so intelligent and so well informed as goverDor Meigs. ♦ General Putnam is one of the earliest settlers here, and he lias several sons and relatives, well acquainted with the state ol Ohio ; from them I got a great variety of information. . We went to see the Mounds ; but whether it was that my miD townships{iicar the centre of the puixhasc, on t lockhocking river, have been reserved tor u cullcffe. On this rcitervc Athens is now built. This tract wns purchased from the United States for one dollar an acre, and the company were principally guided in their cboice of their situation, by the commercial advantages which appeared to result from havuig the command of several fine rivers, particu- larly the Ohio and Mubkuigum ; without perhaps duly reilectini', that agriculture takes the precedence of commerce. Before there can be trade there must be something to trade in. Certain it it they fixed upon one of the worst situations in the state of Ohio, and, notwithstanding the cheapness of the purchase, most of the proprietors have found it a losing concern. There are some fine bottoms on the Ohio, and on some of the other rivers, particular* ly the Uockhocking, but by far the greater part is rough and hilly ; although I think it will answer remarkably well for vbecp* grazing, to which, in process of time, it will probably be applied, The land stands rated in the state books nearly thus : of 100 parts there is one first rate ; SO second rate ; and 69 third rote land* The population is increasing, but not nearly in an equal degree to other parts of the state. The inhabitants amount at present to about 1 2,000. The climate is very agreeable, and is quite hcnllby. Xhc whole district abounds with finely varieg^ed scenery. Marietta District, of which the United States lantl-office u at Marietta, is situated between the Steubenville district and the Ohio Company's purchase. It extends into the interior of the country about 30 miles, and contains about 860 square miles. The Ohio washes it on the south-east about 60 miles. The soil here is much superior to (he Ohio Company's lands : of 100 parts, one is first rate ; 77 second rate; and 22 third rate. It is hand- somely watered, the principal river being the Little Muskiogum, and though it is only about half as large as (he company's pur- chase, it contains nearly as many inhabitants, and is more likely to increase. The price of the United States* lands is two dollars per acre. The other lands vary according to circumstances, some being as low as one dollar, and some as high as 20 dollar* per acre. The average price of middling land is about twp dollars. The Ohio Company's purchase is very various in pf ice. General- TUB OHIO BIVEH.' S%t/ \j (peaking, the individual* who bold it are wiHing to Aell at moderate prices, and very advantageous bargains may be iiHade bjr those who go there to reside. To the npn-resident fipecu.a(ort ^ b^idi out no inducement. Ut CHAPTER LXXIL BUmnerhasset*s Island^ — Kanhateai/ River. ~ Galliopoli% During our stay at Marietta, the water rose a Utile, and a number of boats canie dowrr the river. Two young gentlemen in a sklfi^ one of them a Mr. Murray, from New York, the otlier from Baltimore, arrived at the inn where we lodged ; but they only stopped a few minutes, and proceeded down the river. Five or six keel-boats, laden with goods, stopped at the wxne time, and we prepared to go along with them. I now parted with my agreed- able friend Mr. Ward, and the Frenchman and I proceeded on our journey together. A Mr. Armstrong, whom 1 became ac* quaintcd with at Pittsburg, was along with the boats, and wo found him very discreet. As we were starting from the wharf, a young man from the keel -boats told us he was disengaged, and ofo fered his services to row our skifT. We engaged him, but had only proceeded a little way, when the captain of one of the keeU boats roared out to him, with a volley of oaths and irapreciitions, to come and take care of his father. The young man asserted ha hadnotliing to dp with them, and, to prevent any mischief, I desired him to puU away to Mr. Armstong's boat, where I wuuU\ procure him protection till we got the matter inquired into. But we had not proceeded fur when the men from the boat pursued and overtook us ; seized hold of the young man, neck and heels t threw hitn into their boat, and carried him off. On reaching Mr. Armstrong, I learned that this wa9 a bad boy^ who wanted to desert his father ; and he recommended to us a young lad, named Peter, on board their boat, whom we ioupd to answer our purpose remarkably welL ,.,^ «.r.^;. At night we stopped at a tavern, six miles below Marietta, oi^ the Ohio side. This was a pretty situation, but I did not like the looks of our landlord ; and the boats' crews having stopped here^ tlicy made a terrible romptis, drinking metheglin, and swe'f>T «'• *t--i> j '.vcs " Flyped the skin o' liis checks oat owrc his chin ; Of but we were in our boat in tho river, and the Frenchman lay on his oars, and enjoyed her half-frantic gestures, while she unprofitably soont her rage among the trees. : • There appears to be certain periods when mankind take a per- verse pleasure in tormenting each other. The poor woman's pas- jions were fired at the circumstance of being called dirty ; a plain proof that it was not altogether congenial to her disposition : yet our Frenchman, so far from feeling any <:ompunction, tormented her with a string of allusions, all of which had a tendency to wind her passions to the highest pitch ; but he could do it with impunity. We were at a respectful distance, moviug slowly down the river ; there was no danger of broken bones : but the Billingsgate ccntinu. ed while we were within hearing, to the great amusement of the crews of the adjoining boats. , .<» .>. ' .; i A short while after leaving our enraged fair one, we were threaten- ed with a shower of rain, and we took slu 'ter in a .small log cabin, where the landlord told us he was a native of Ireland, and had come 1 out to fight for America during the war. He was an excellent rau- bician, and amused us with some tunes on the violin. The afte?- noon cleared up, we got under weigh, and made very good pro- gress to Letart's falls, which we passed before dark, and stopped at I a house on the right bank, immediately below them. Here I goi a great variety of intbrmation regarding this part of I tlie country. It is only about 13 years since it began to be settlcnl, and it has made rapid progress. The climate is healthy, and the winters mild. Improved land on the river sells for eight dollars, land unim}.i-ovcd for four dollars per acre. Letart's falls are only a jiftiftcu»Te?'t, which th.e keel boats ascend upwards. In the course jot the day we passed several families moving down the river to Ken- jtucky; we also passed a floating store. September 4th, we left Letart's falls at half past 6 o'clock; the Imorning was cloudy, the thermometer was 69°, in the water it was '• The wind was blowing up the river with a very strong cur- jfeatj and, being obliged to coast along the bank, we made but small 45 ii ■ *yL; '•itt^ '' s : M •IP' 1 *■': i ■ Wi:\ • • 1 f"^ .. , g" SSi TDAVKLS ON progress. We met several vessels loaded with salt, bound up tlu river, and judging from the state of the winds since we left Pith. burg, I was satisfied we could have sailed up to Pittsburg in little more than half the time we took to come down. The keel boati sail up at the rate of about 20 miles a day. The scenery continues near' ly similar to that already described, to the Great Kanhaway, which we reached at sun-set. The Kanhaway is a large river in Virginia. on which there is now a great trade in srlt. It appears at its outlet to be nearly as large as the Ohio. At this place there is a little town on the Virginia side, on a high bank, called Point Pleasant, where we left Mr. Murray and his friend, and passed on to Gallio polls ; at which town I was anxious to stop all night, to moke observations. It was dark before we arrived, so that we had some difficulty in fixing our boat, and getting properly accommodated with lode- ings ; and our Frenchman having wished to stop <.t Point Plea- sant, I was a good deal troubled with his ilUhumour. September Sth. This morning we took a walk round the town, and I was pleased to find it in a thriving state. A number of buildings had becij. lately erected, most of them of brick, and a handsome brick academy was building. A number of little ponds at the back of the tov/n were drained, and the fields around had been recently put into a state of active cultivation. The town wgi stocked with orchards, and the fruit was excellent. We were in- troduced to several of the early French settlers, who gave a differ- ent history of the place from what I had seen before in books, and the substance of tlicir information I have engrossed in the follow- ing account. Galliopolis is the capital of Gallia county, and is beautifulljf situated, on a second bank of the Ohio. It in laid out on a gooJ plan : there is a scjuare of eight acres in the centre, and the builii- ing ground is divided into squares of five acres each, by street* cl €6 feet wide, crossing each other at right angles. The building lots are 85 feet in front, by 1 70 deep, and contain one third of nn •ere. They sell, at present, for from 25 dollars to 200 doilari each. The number of houses is about 70, nnd the inhabitants 300. | The public buildings are a court-house, and the academy ; wliicli last is to contain a room for a church, one for a military acadcmj, and one for a masonic hall. Except domei^tic manuikctures, there are none in the to«i! THE OHIO RIVER. 355 though there are several in the country, and some are projected which would probably succeed very well. There are no water lulls for machinery on the Ohio, but they have coal in abundance, and steam-mills are likely to become very general. One is projected here. The different professions are, one tavern-keeper, two black- smiths, two tanners, three storekeepers, three master masons, and lix or seven carpenters. Provisions are reasonable : flour two dol- lars })€r cwt., beet three dollars, pork three dollars, corn 33 cents per bushel, butter 6^ cents per lb. eggs 6\ cents per dozen, fowls 6\ cents each. This place was originally settled by a French colony, who pur- chased the lands in France for five dollars per acre ; but soon after settling here they were unfortunately engaged in a war with the In- dians, which contributed vcr^ niuch to disturb and dispirit the colony. This, however, they would have overcome, had they got quiet possession of thcr lands afterwards ; but they were involved ill a dispute about the land titles, one of the most serious evils that can befal new settlers ; many of them bought their lands ^ ae* cond time and remained ; some went to Fr'^nch Crrant, where the United States gave them a quantity of land to indemnify them for tlieir losses, and some moved away altogct^her. These circumstan> ces were the cause of the dismemberment of the colony, in conse- quence of which they did no good here, nor any where else. Galliopolis has been reputed a sickly place, but this is a mistake ; it is quite healthy, and it is a beautiful situation. It has been also supposed that no body should go to a new ^ )untry, except they can take an ake in their hand, and cut down trees. This is also a mistake. An association of farmers, mechanics, &c., have the best chance, because their combined labours are equal to all their wants. Witness the Harmonist Society ; and I have no doubt, from what I learned regarding the French colony, that it also would have done very well, liad they not been imposed upon in (heir own country as to the land. J-^' ' i bt liie in the to»D 356 •j-'f TRAVELS ON CHAPTER LXXII. . f ■ Leave GalUopoliSi — Portsmmth^ — Limestonei^— Cincinnati. While we were making our inquiries at Galliopolis, Mr. Murray and his friend came up with us, but stopping only a few jminutcs, they passed on before we were ready; I liad a great deal of trouble to keep my fretful Frenchman in good humour. " ^Vllat you always inquire, inquire," says he, " at every body, and about every thing? don't you see there's water, and there's trees .and there's houses, and there's fields? and just say to the people:- the western country is the first in the world — tlie rivers are bcauti. ful, and the trees are magnificent, and the climate is delightful; and as to the soil, you can take a handful, and squeeze a gill of oil out of it." " lie quiet, now," says I, « and just take things easy. You Frenchmen are always for applying a magnifying glass to ob- jects, but I wish simply to state things as they are." We left Galliopolis at half-past 1 1 : the day was clear and beau- tiful ; the thermometer stood at 78". We were now favoured with a little breeze which helped us along, and having made 22 niilej, we stopped at the house of a Mr. Riggs, near the extremity of the Ohio company's purchase. We found this a very comfortable set- tlement, on a second bank of the Ohio, and Mr. Riggs had a large and industrious family. He told us that he sat down here about 12 years ago, and had not yet made a purchase of his lands, but expected to buy them soon, and would be willing to give 8 dollars an acre for them. Here we saw the women busy spinning and weaving cotton ; and were informed that they raised it on their own plantation, which is in latitude 38° 40'. They raise also sweet potatoes and ground-nuts. We were informed that the weather liad been cool and pleasant here all summer, and that they seldom experienced the extremes of heat or cold, Mr. iliggs gave us an recount of the settlement of that pert of the country. The first clcarers, ov squatters, as they are called, look out a situation where they can find it, and clear and cultivate apiece of land. A second class come after them, who have got a little money, and tiiey buy 111) the improvements of the first settlcrii, and add to then), but with- out buying the land. A third and last class generally come for per- manent settlement, and buy both land and improvements. ^MlC" THE OHIO RIVER. 357 this lost class have made a settlement, the country rapidly improve:*, and assumes the appearance of extended cultivation. It is presum- ed the whole banks of the Ohio, as far as we have travelled, will have that appearance within 10 years. ;», , ., ^ j..-^ . While we were here, a stranger arrived from Kentucky, who also got lodgings, and, when Mr. Iliggs* family were all collected, we had, if not a brilliant, at least a very numerous company. — There were seven or eight sons, and three or four dau/jhters : how they were all accommodated with beds I do not know, but we got « very good one on the lower floor, the old man and old woman be- ing upon the one hand, and two or three of the daughters on the other. The bed-clothes were made wholly of cotton, and we were very comfortable, ' * ' " ♦ ^ . ■ ,■....> : Sept. 6. — We started at 6 ; the morning was foggy, the thermo- meter 53°. Twelve miles from Mr. Riggs' we stopped at a small tavern, where we found the landlord a great politician, and very com- municative. He said he was a true democratic republican, though lie lived within half a mile of Federal creek. Below this place the country becomes level, and so continues to Sandy creek, the boundary ofthestateof Kentucky, which we reached in the afternoon, andhav- ing long desired to see that celebrated state, I immediately went on shore to shake hands with the soil. I could not, in terms of our Frenchman's notion, " squeeze a gill of oil out of it," but I found it of an excellent quality, and supplied with large timber, princi- pally beech and sugar-maple. The country beyond this assumes a hilly aspect, but the banks are remarkably fertile. We made an attempt to procure lodgings in Kentucky, but, as in Virginia, with- out effect. We found in the house where we applied nothing but filth and wretchedness, and, passing over to the Ohio side, we got most comfortabie lodgings with a siow-married couple, who had very laudably provided a bed for strangers, besides their own. lliey would take nothing for our accommodation,^ the second in- stance of the kind we had met with on the Ohio. ^' - v. ' September 7th. We started at half-past 5. The morning was foggy; the thermometer 55°. The scenery on the river was now very fine. At 9 o'clock we were up with a remai'kable rock, called Hanging rock, and we stopped at a plantation in Kentucky, on a beautiful bend of the river, where mc got some milk and but- ter from a Maryland family. They were industrious, and highly pleased with their iiew situation. The land, they informed v^ i\ 358 TRAVELS OH cost S dollars 50 cents per acre, and they could dispose of eren article of produce on the river as follows : corn 26 cents per bushel wheat 50, potatoes 40, meal 40, flour 2 dollars. One day's labour in the week was sufficient to support the family, and they did not depend on negro labour. The country below this was very vari< ous as we passed, but the soil generally good. The river was about 700 yards wide, and so transparent, that we could see the bottom distinctly at 8 feet deep, and a variety of fishes playing upon it. The river keeps generally a south-west course, till it passes the latitude of S8** 30', and at Sandy river makes a bend to the north- west. We were now sailing in that direction, and passed Little Sandy river, and French Grant ; and at Little Scioto, the river bends to the south-west, where we took a fair wind, which carried us very swiftly to the the Big Scioto, on which is Portsmouth and Alexandria. As the latter is an old settlement, we meant to have stopped at it all night ; but, on making inquiry for a tavern, we found there was none, and that the town was going to decay. It appears it is liable to be flooded, although it is on a bank 60 tee: liigh ; but Portsmouth, on the east bank of the Scioto, is not sub' ject to that inconvenience, and is progressing very fast. Being at the outlet of the Scioto, one of the finest rivers in the state of Ohio, I presume it will become a place of very considerable impor< tance. We were told that the banks of the Scioto were very rich, j though a littl^ unhealthy ; but, as the country wf(s clearing up, the sickness was diminishing every year. ' We continued our course down the river, and inquired for lodg- ings; but we c6uld not be accommodated where we first applied; and this was the first instance of the kind that had occurred in the state of Ohio : a proof of the comfortable circumstances and hos< pitality of the settlers. We applied at the next house, half a mile be- low ; and here we were accommodated, but very poorly. The fanii* ly were recently from Virginia, and they had to part with their own j bed to us. The soil is very rich here ; and we were told, that the produce of 12 acres would with ease support a numerous lamilv. Land is 5 dollars per acre, and workmen have 2 bushels of com and their maintenance, for a day's work. September 8th. We rose at half past 5. The morning wai j clear; the thermometer 60°. But before setting out, a difficultj occurred : we had nothing less than a five dollar piece, and the £fimily could not change it. I was obliged) therefore, to i^alk luil> TRB OHIO KIVBR. S59 a mile up the bankt of the river to procure it, at the house whert tic applied for lodgings last evening. The landlord was an Irish- man, and expressed great regret that he was not at home when we applied, as he would hate wished to have talked about the old country. He accommodated me with change, and expressed a (letire to detain me some little time ; but, the wind being fair, I was loth to lose a minute, and I set out for the boat with all possible dispatch. In my way, I passed through a fine bottom, itocked with trees of extraordinary size and beauty. They were mostly chcsnut, quite straight and smooth in the trunk, and several of them, which I measured, were 18 feet in circumference. On my arrival at the boat, I found the Frenchman ** gna'wing his nails" with anxiety ; but we set sail with a fair wind, and soon made up our lee-way. We again passed our friend Mr. Murray, and the wind continuing to favour us, we made rapid progress. We passed Salt-Lick creek, near which we saw a number of beautiful conical hills, and, after sailing nearly 40 miles through very va: legated scenery, we reached Manchester before dark, where we stopped all night. Manchester is a small place, con- listing of 12 or 14 houses only, and is not thriving. September 9. We set sail at 6 o'clock. The morning was fine, and, having a fair wind we had a rapid ran of 12 miles to Lime- itone, which we reached at 8 o'clock. This is one of the shipping ports of Lexington, and is quite a bustling place ; but we only stopped at it while we took breakfast, when we immediately set saii, and at 2 o'clock reached Augusta, a very handsome little town ia Kentucky, 21 miles below Limestone. It is thriving re- markably well. We left Augusta at 3 o'clock, and, 3 miles below it, parted with our boatman, and continued our course in expectation of reaching the plantation of a Mr. Kennedy, a Scotsman, to whom I had a letter of introduction ; but the wind failed us, and we were I obliged to stop 6 miles short of it, at the house of a Mr. Taylor. I was much pleased with the appearance of this part of the coun^^ [try, and Mr. Taylor being a slirewd, intelligent man, I received a hreat deal of information from him. This situation is in the Vir- jgmia military lands, and the country is very agreeable. The price jof land is generally 2 dollars per acre. The principal timber is Nlnut, blue ash, beech, and sugar-tree. Cleared lands sell from M to 10 dollars, according to the quality. Flour is 2 dollars per ■ ^;?f til %"!:•• 1'^ !>^ i >j» , S60 THAVRLS ON cwt. ; wheat 50 cents per buMhcl; horses from 50 to 60 dollar.- cows 10 dollars. Mr Taylor moved from Washington counu P«nnylvania, and considerH this soil and climate as much better than that he had left. The first frost appears abont the middle of Oc- tober, but it is slight ; and winter does not set in until Clu-intmiij. They have a good deal of rain in winter, but inow docs uot lie long. - • September 10th. 1 rose very early this morning, whcH I ^aw the comet for the first time. The morning was clear, and the thermometer stood at 50°. The wind was north-east. North-easi winds seem to have the same effect here that north-west winds have on the other side of the mountains. They render the air clear, dry, and clastic. At 6 o'clock we got under weigh, and at a little past 7 reached the plantation of Mr. Kennedy, on the Kentucky side. His house was a little way back from the river, and I went up to present niv letter, when he received me with great cordiality. I told him ihe humour of my travelling companion, and he came down to the beach, to invite him to breakfast. While we were on the btacli, Mr. Murray and his companion arrived, and Mr. Kennedy gave them an invitation also ; so we moved to the house in a body. I would wrong Mr. Kennedy to say, barely, he was kind ; he w;h hospitable in the highest degree. He got an excellent brcaklii>i prepared, and, in the interim, treated us with whiskey and honey, well known in Scotland by the name of Athol-brose, in honour of which the celebrated^ Niel Gow composed an elegant strathspey, and gave it that name. - > • Before we had finished our breakfast, Mr. Kennedy drew a fid- dle from a box, and struck up the tune of Rothemurche's Rant. He played in the true Highland style, and 1 could not stop to finish my breakfast, but started up and danced Shantreacs. The old man was delighted, and favoured us with a great many Scot- tish airs. When he laid down the fiddle, I took it up, and com- nienced in my turn, playing some new strathspeys that he had not beai'd before ; but he knew the spirit of them full well, and he also i gave us Shantrews " louping near bawk height," albeit he was weE stricken in years. . i—. ,\,J.t*t„. n^w , He next played a number of airs, all Scottish, on a whistle; | and then pulled out some MS. poetry, and read several pieces, i which were highly humoious. He was particularly severe upon TH8 OHIO RIVER. 36 L the methodists, whose frantic gestures he imitated, crying out, »iiloiyi gloty" and stamping his feet, as he recited a piece of utire upon their conduct. But this wan too rich a feast to last : we were obliged to depart ; but I made a promise to pay him ano- ther visit, if I could, before I left the country. The wind was unsteady, and sometimes ahead ; but we made considerable progress. The river, and scenery on its banks, con- tinue very beautiful, and the country here is all healthy. Twenty miles below Mr. Kennedy's, we passed the little Miami river, a fine romantic stream, abounding with fulls and mill-scats, and eight miles below it we reached Cinciimati, at dark, where we found excellent accommodations at the Columbian tavern. CHAPTER LXXIV. Cincinnati^ — Symme^s purchase^ — Cincinnati district^ — Newport. Cincinnati is elegantly situated on a first and second bank on the north side of the Ohio river, along which it extends nearly half a mile, and as far back in the country. The scite of the town is elevated from 70 to 120 feet above low water mark, and is never overflowed. The land and water around it exhibit a very hand- some appearance. The Ohio is here three quarters of a mile wide ; and Licking river, a considerable stream in Kentucky, falls into it right opposite. The streets of Cincinnati are broad, crossing one another at right angles ; and the greater part of the houses being of bricl;, it has a very handsome appearance. The streets, how- ever, are not yet paved, except the side walks, on which account they are unpleasant in mflddy weather ; but that is an evil which will soon be remedied. Cincinnati was laid out about 21 years ago, since which it has made rapid progress, and now contains about 400 houses, and 2283 inhabitants. The public buildings are, a court- house, jail, bank, three market-houses, and some places for pub- lic worship, two cotton factories, and some considerable breweries and distilleries. The taverns are not numerous, but there are up- wards of 30 dry-goods stores, in which from 200,000 to 250,000 dollars worth of imported goods are disposed of annually. This is, next to Pittsburg, the greatest place for manufactures and mechanical operations on the river, and the professions exev- 46 ^, <>, .^J^ '^•V^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) & // {./ ^ .*^ ^ .< 4^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 LiM2.8 US ^ L£ 12.0 Its <^ /i <^ '/ <^ Hiotographic Sdences Coiporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 872-4S03 ,* ■«*■>* V ^ 362 TRAVELS ON ciscd arc nearly as numerous as at Pittsburg. There are inaioai and stone-cutters, brick-mnkcrs, carpenters, cabinet-innkcrs, coop. ers, turners, mnrhinc-makers, whccl-wrights, smiths and nailom coppersmiths, tin-smiths, silver-smiths, gun-smiths, clock and watch-makers, tanners, saddlers, Iwot and shoe-makers, gjovirs and breeches-makers, butchers, bakers, brewers, distillers, cotton- spinners, weavers, dyers, taylors, printers, bookbinders, ropc-makcrs, tobacconists, 8oa|)-boilers, candle-makers, comb-makers, painters, pot and pearl ash-makers . > . , * -• i. . These branches are mostly all increasing, and afford good wa- j^os to the journeymen. Carpenters and cabinet-makers have one dollar per day and their board ; masons have two dollars per 1000 for laying bricks and their board ; when they board tlicmselvcj they have about four dollars per 1000. Other classes have from one to one dollar twenty-five cents per day, according to the na- ture of the work. Wool and cotton carding and spinning can be increased to a great extent ; and a well organized manufactory of glass bottle would succeed. Porter brewing could be augmented, but it would iirst be necessary to have bottles, as the people here prefer malt liquor in the bottled state. A manufactory of wool-hats would pro- bably succeed, and that of stockings would do remarkably well, provided frame s^^h-work were established along with it — not else. As the people are becoming wealthy and polished in their maimers, probably a manufactory of piano-fortes would do upon a small scale. There are ample materials for manufactures. Cotton is brought from Cumberland river, for from two to three cents. Wool is be- coming plenty in the country, and now sells at 50 cents per pound; all the materials for glass-making arc abundant ; coal has not been found in the immedia,^ neighbourhood, but can be laid down here at a pretty reasonable rate; and it is probable the enterprising citi- zens will soon introduce the steam-engine in manufactures. Wood is brought to the town at a very low rate. There is a very consider- able trade between New Orleans and this place, and several barges were in the river wbcw we visiljcd it. One had recently sailed up- wards over the talis. The expense of living is lower than at Pittsburg. House rent for a mechanic is about CO dollars, but the most of them soon get houses of tlicir own. W^ood is 1 dollar per cord j coals 8 to 12 THE OHIO KIVBK. 369 eentt per bushel ; flour 2 dollars per cwt. ; corn-meal 33 cents per bashd ; potatoes 25 ; vegetables are very plenty and cheap ; beef, mutton, and veal 4 to 5 cents per lb, ; pork 2J ; venison 25 centg per bam; fowls, one dollar per dozen; ducks, 25 cents per pair; jwseST^ to 50; turkies the same; wild turkies 12i to 25 cents; fish very cheap; cheese 12j per lb. ; butter, 12 to 20; eggs 6 to 10 |)er dozen; beer 5 dollars per barrel; cyder 3 dollars; whiskey 37} to 40 cents per gallon ; peach brandy 50 ; salt I dollar per bosbel. This place, like Marietta, is mostly settled by New Englanders; and the state of society is very excellent. Education is well attend- ed to, and the people arc very correct in their morals. There are three newspapers printed here, and they get papers from ev«ry state in the union. ' '- '•>■■•• Symmes's purchase, on which Cincinnati is situated, is one of the most judicious that has ever been made in the state of Ohio. It lies between the two Miami rivers, about 20 miles in breadth. and extends from the Ohio into the interior of the country, about 30 miles. It contains one of the best bodies of land in the whole Me, and is now nearly settled up. Land is consequently pretty high, and may be rated at 5 dollars per acre, uncleared. In this [mrchase, like that by the Ohio company, there is a reserve for a school, and another for a church ; but I was informed, that in con- sequence of the variety of religious opinions in the district, the litter has been productive only of discord. The effect of the school section will be noticed hereafter. * ' ' The Cincinnati District is situated to the westward of Sym- mes's purchase, and the United States land-office is in Cincinnati. This district is partly in the Indiana territory, but mostly in tlio state of Ohio, and contains a body of mo^t excellent land. It is boundeil on the west by a line drawn from opposite the mouth of Kentucky river, to where the Indian north boundary line intersects the western line of the state of Ohio, and contains about 3000 square miles. These two districts constitute what is called the Miami Cmmtrtfy •hicli, in point of soil, climate, and natural advantages, is pro- bably inferior to none in the United States, and few arc ef|ual to it. The soil of this district is reckoned, upon the whole, as the best in the state of Ohio. It is rated, in the state books, in this way: in 100 parts, G are first rale, 70 second rate, and 24 third rate land. 1 If 364 TRAVELS ON The face of the country is agreeably uneven, but not mountainous: and the country has a plentiful supply of the most useful minerals, particularly iron. There are also several mineral springs. The two principal rivers are the two Miamis, but it is remarkablv well watered with small streams. The large Miami is nn elegant river, 200 yards wide at its mouth, but, 75 miles in the interior of the country, it contracts to the breadth of 30 yards. It is naviga- ble, however, for canoes, 50 miles above this, in all 125 miles.— The whole length of the rivier in a straight line is about 130 miles, but including its turnings it is nearly double that distance. Ow of its branches interlocks with the Scioto, and from another there is a portage, of only nine miles, to a branch of the Miami of the lakes. The whole of this country has been settled up in little more than 20 years, ond it will afford an idea of the value of the country to state that the inhabitants, of course mostly all emigrants, now a- mount to nearly 40,000. Hamilton county, a small district, con- sisting of little more than 300 square miles, contains upwards of 15,000, being more than 50 to the square mile. I was introduced to judge Symmes, and the different gcndemen in the land-office, to whom, and Mr. Kilgour, a Scotsman, 1 was mostly indebted for my information here. Having finished my inquiries at Cincinnati, I crossed the river to wait upon colonel Taylor, at Newport, to whom I had a letter of introduction. Newpout is a small place, and is quite eclipsed by the splendour of Cincinnati, There is. a good brick building on the banks of Licking Creek, in which is deposited a magazine of arms, ammu- nition, &c. ; so that Newport is a sort of military station, but it is rather unhealthy on the creek, and I think it would have been wisi> to have placed it on the Cincinnati side. I found colonel Taylor a very communicative, sensible man, and remarkably well acquainted in this part of the country, where he is an old settler. He has nn elegant farm, and a vineyard of grapes, the finest that I have yet seen in America. Grapes flourish luxu* riantly here, a circumstance that proves to a demonstration, that wine could be made in this part of the country. Here I was introduced to captain Baen, of colonel Boyd's regi- ment. He had just arrived from Boston, and was waiting for a passage down the river to join the army ; and I agreed to speak to iny huinoursomc French captain to take him in our boat, at which he expressed his satisfaction. ^ -^' -- ^, « . . Leave Cincinnati THE OeiO RIVIR. 365 The greater part of the iufurmation I received from Mr. Taylor, jfgarding the country, is anticipated in the preceding remarks, but there were various other topics of conversation, some of which 1 nay just glance at. On the Indian war, I was informed that the opinion was general, tiiere would be no fighting, or, if any, it would be of short duration ; and they did not apprehend the small- eit (laoger from it in this part of the country. On Burr's conspi- racy, witli which colonel Taylor seems to have been well acquaint- ed, he bore testimony to the integrity and laudable conduct of Ge- neral Wilkinson, in suppressing one of the vilest treasons that ever was exhibited in the country. ,- ) , *' CHAPTER LXXV. Leaoe Cincinnati^ — Miami river, — KenUtcky riva', — Smss settlement^ I Louisville, Our Frenchman, with a shrug of his shoulders and some little reluctance, having agreed to accommodate captain Baen, we en- gaged a man to row for us, and after laying in some provisions, part of which was a ham, /hich we stowed in the wolf-box, we started from Cincinnati on the 13th of September, at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. The wind was blowing very strong up the river, so that we made only nine miles, when we lodged at a little dirty ta- vern, having the woi'st accommodations we had yet seen in the state of Ohio. The banks of the river were well settled and cultivated to this place. September 1 4th. — Being very glad to get away from this wretch- ed tavern, we started at day-light. On examining our boat, we found our ham had been, as before, abstracted from the box ; but a wolf was not the thief this time ; it was a cote, and the name of the box was changed accordingly. At 8 o'clock we passed the Nortli Bend, a remarkable turn in the river, and immediately after, we stopped to breakfast at the house of a captun Kirtley, in Ken- tucky. I le has a pretty plantation, and we got an excellent break- fast. We were informed that captain Brown, a gentleman from New Jersey, lived half a mile below, who had a fine orchard, and as he was very sociable and attentive to strangers, it would be worth our while to call on him. The Frenchman and I started '3l» 366 TKAVELd ON in the boat, and captain Baen walked along the bank. ] laviun waited a while at Mr. Brown's, he called to us when we were op. posite the plantation ; but we had already lost a great deal of time and were inclined to gb on. But he informed us that there was a great curiosity to l)c se6n, so we jumped ashore. The curiosity wiua Mammoth's haunch bone, which had been dug up in the fields a few days before. Captain Brown had it measured and weighed. it was indeed a very wonderful bone, being three feet in diameter, and weighing 55 pounds : the socket was eight inches in diameter. What a stupendous animal it must have once formed a part of! If we were gratified by the sight of this bone, wo were still more so by the view of Mr. Brown's orchards, where we found fruit that might have been with propriety termed mammoth apples. There was a larger quantity of fine fruit here, than in any orchard I had ever seen. Many of the limbs of the trees were literally broken down with the weight, and one or two whole trees were nearly broken to pieces by it. Some of the apples measured 17i inches in circumference, and Mr. Brown boasted, I think with reason, that he could outmatch the whole United States with this fruit. It was noticed before that he is a native of Jersey, and he informed us that he bore a commission in the American war ; he had been fifteen or sixteen years settled in this country, and had only one child, a daughter, who was married to colonel Pike, the cclebra* ted traveller in Louisiana. The wind continued to blow so strong up the river, that we could not row against it, and captain Brown insisted that ve should stop to dinner, which we agreed to, and we were treated with great hospitality. In the afternoon the wind lulled a little, and wishing success to our hospitable entertainer, we took our leave. A few miles below captain Brown's we passed the mouth of the Great Miami, which has already been noticed, and which, at its tonfluence with the Ohio, has a handsome appearance. The wes< tern boundary line of the state of Ohio is projected due north from the mouth of this river, so that we were now between Ken- tucky and the Indiana territory. We reached the house of a cap- tain Talbot, where we stopped for the night. '* ' September 15. On gettin^^ up this morning we found it pretty cold — the thermometer had fallen to 46®. The stream continued beautiful, but the banks were ilow rather low, and the inhabi* TUB OHIO RIVER. Sf)7 unit appeared to be mostly all new settlers, nnd in very poor cir« circumstances. The settlements were very thin, but the land ap- mred to be good, nnd the timber very luxuriant. The whole bed of the river here is limestone. The wind continued to blow up the strenm so strong, that we could have sailed eight miles u}v ffgnis in the time we took to row one downwards. Indeed, in the middle of the day, it was so strong that we could not make head aminst it at all, and we were obliged to put ashore at Big-bonc- lidc creek. Big-bone-lick, so called from the vast numbers of large bones which have been found near it, is the property of Mr. Colqulioun, to whom I had a letter of introduction, but I learned that he was at Lexington, and it was of no consequence to go to the lick, as all the bones which had been found had been carried away. In consequence of this information, I had recourse to my travelling companion, the Pittsburg Navigator, from which I transcribe the following account ; " Animals' bones of enormous size have been found here in great numbers. Some skeletons nearly complete were not long since dug up, 1 1 feet under the surface, in a stiff blue clay. These ap- peared to be the bones of different species of animals, but all re- niarkid)ly large. Some were supposed to be those of the mammoth, others of u non-descript. Among these bones, were two horns or fenders, eooh weighing 150 pounds, 16 feet long, and 18 inches in circumference at the big end ; and grinders of the carnivorous kind, weighing from three to ten and a half pounds each ; and others of the granivorous species, equally large, but quite differ- ently shaped, being flat and ridged. Ribs, joints of the backbone, and of the foot or paw, thigh and hip bones, upper jaw bone, &c. &c were also found, amounting in the whole to about five tons I weight. "These bones were principally discovered by Dr. Goforth and I Mr. Reeder of Cincinnati, who sent them by water to Pittsburg, with ail intention to transport them to Pliiladelphia, and make sale of them to Mr. Peale, proprietor of the museum of that city. -They were, however, while in Pittsburg, discovered by an Irish gentleman, a traveller, who purchased them, reshipped them I down the Ohio, and thence to Europe. " As to the history of the mammoth, we are much in the dark. I Of animals having once existed cainrying these enormous bones, there can be no doubt. Their present existence is muck doubted; m ■r'i ^4 ■■ I ay- L -I TBAVBLS ON f 368 and the only proof we hove to the contrary, is a curious tradiiion of the Indians, handed down to lliem by their fathers, which bein? delivered by a principal chief df the Delaware tribe to the gover- nor of Virginia durinf^.^ American revolution, is recorded in the following words : — * That in ancient times a herd of these tremen. dous animals came to the Big-bon« licks and began a univerul destruction of the bear, deer, elks, bufikloes, and other animali which had been created for the use of the Indians : that the Great Man above, looking down and seeing this, was so enraged, tlut he seized his lightning, descended on the earth, and seated himself on a neighbouring moantain, on a rock, on which his sent and the print of his feet arc still to be seen, and hurled his bolts mnong them till the whole were slaughtered, except the big bull, who, presenting his forehead to the shafls, shook them off as they fell; but missing one at length, it wounded him in the side ; whereoo, springhig round, he bounded over the Ohio, over the Wabash, the Illinois, and finally over the great lakes, where he is living at this day.' — JcffersmCs Notes on Virginia, " There arc places at the Big-bone lick, where the salt water bubbles up through the earth, that are rendered a perfect qung- mire, admitting nothing heavier walking over them than geese or other light web-footed fowl. Cattle dare not venture nearer than to their edges. One of these places appears bottomless, for no soundings have ever been found : throw in a ten feet rail end-ways, audit buries itself without any other force than its own weight; another embraces near a quarter of an acre, over which groffs a very fine and short grass. May it not be reasonable to accouDt for so many of the mammoth's bones being deposited at this pkce, by presuming, that in their seeking the salt water, and venturinga little too fur, or otherwise that their own enormous weight pushing them forward too far for recovery, and sinking, thus were buried one after another to the number we now find their remains. The places where their bones are now found are tolerably hard, from filling up by the washings of the small stream which runs through them, and from having been much dug up, and the mud exposed to the sun."* river." This was * It may be noticoa hero, that an entire skclktom of this wonderful animai it to bo seen in Peale's Museum, PKiLAoiLrHiA, where I found the followin|r accouni. *' It was accidentally discovered in Ulster county, Kc^v York, on a fnmi l>elonging to i put together » skeleton of this great mon-dkscripi, perfect in every part except ! cranium." Mr. Pcsle also discovered anotlier skeleton, a few miles distant from the altova ^kich his ion, Uviobraodt TMde, carried to Europe. 47 irhm 370 TRAVEM ON foiiiul my conjecture correct ; in place of walking towards tb« river, as we Kuppuscil, wo were niurcliing niong its l)anks, ji, mj,. rcclidu the very reverse of that which led to captain IlamV; and on reaching the right roati, we found we wei»« not ninnv yardi from where we were assailed by the (h)g8. We now travelled very quicklV) hut it wos near 1 1 o'clock W. Cote we reached captain I lawes' ; and to compensate for our toil wc expecteil that our frieiidn would be there before us, uiul huve a comfortable supper prepared. But we were sadly disap|H)inte(l: they had not arrivcil, and we could perceive no trace of them on the river. Captain I lawcs' family had gone to bed, and it was with some didleully we rouscnl them, ofter which we wcnttoilie bank of the river to iiail the boat; but after bhouting till we were lioarse, we could hear no return. Wc were now in a sad dilemma, for wc supposed our friends had fallen asleep in the boat, and must have floated past the plan- tation. One of the people in Mr. I lawes' house advised us to go close to the edge of the river, and hnil, assuring us that our voire could be heard above three miles up and down the stream. We followed his advice, and shouted till we made all the wocMUring. At lost we hcord a very distant response up the river. It was our friends. We hailed several times, and had as many returns, but it was above on hour before tliey reached us. On their arrival tlicy informed us, that they had fallen asleep in the boat, and were uwoke by our first shouting, but thought they must have floated ])ast, and were pulling up the river as hard as they could, whin they heard our second call ; at which time they judged they coulj 1 not be less than three miles distant. Having secured our boat, we went together to the house, when I the captain and I found wc had got unwelcome gi'cat coats ; wc were literally covered from head to foot with a species of burr called wood-lice. When wi had finished our supper, we learned that there would be some littfe diiiiculty in procuring betis, as scverul lodgers had got before us. An Irish stranger hud got the best bed iu the house, by the fire-side, and, mistaking me for acountr}* man, he profleretl me a share of it. It was too goml an otfer to be licglected; so in imitation of my humorous landlord at M^iltoii) 1 tijkl him, " 1 was not just acountryman iieiUier, butwas thencxtdoor neighbour to it, which came to the same thing," so I would uc* ccpt of his oiler with pleasure. The two captains got stowed aw^J THE OHIO niVKR. S7 1 inanotlior npnrtmcnt, and, being prctlihposcd hy the tatiguei of the evening, wc enjoyed a very comfortable repose. ScpU'inbcr 10. We startetl at fi o'clock in tbcmornin<;: llio fcatlicr was clear and cubn ; the temiwratnre ol' tiie uir ()'J°, of ihc water 68". The river is here about 700 yards wiile, and is a boaiitil'ul stream. The country is binUleil on limestone, and ap- prs hcnltiiy, but the settlements are very thin. When we had proceeded eight miles, wc found the breeze so strong, that we were noi ub!c tu make hcod way against it, and we stopped at a planta- tion on llic Kentucky side, where wc saw a very handsome field of cotton, called here a cotton pntch. Wc were now in sight of a Snis!i Httlcment on the other side of the river, to which, on ac- ruunt of the head wind, wc moved with difficulty ; but on our ar- rival wc were very much gratified by the appearance of this thriv- int; colony. We were told that they enn<>;rated to America about 10 years ago, and first attempted the business of vine-dressing on the Kentucky river ; but not succeeiling to their wish, they maved to this place, which they iound to answer very well. Wo found the vineyards in very good order, and the grapes, whicii were at full maturity, hung in most luxuriant clusters. They were of two kinds, claret nnd Madeira, botli reputed to be of the best quality, and the sample which we tasted had an excellent flavour. The wine consisted of two kinds, of course, claret and Madeira. The claret was rich in quality, but too acid. It was, however, a very palatable and pleasant beverage when diluted with water. The Madeira wine wc found very unpalatable, but we were informed that it wanted age. The person who gave us our information said the colony consisted of about 5G persons, who were all vine-dress- ers, but they had no connection together in business. Each family was independent within itself. They have farms besides the vine- yards, and they make all their clothing, so that the produce of the nine is so much added to their stock. Lost year they sold 21^00 gallons at one dollar and a half per gallon ; this year they will sell 3000; and they are very sanguine that they will be able to bring the business to full maturity. Their markets are, Cincinna> ti, Frankfort, Lexington, and St. Louis. They represent the cli* male as healthy ; but the weather is changeable, and the heat in summer is very great, being from 24? to 26" of Reaumur*. This I summer it was at one time as high as 3H";|- but this was the t'ttbrcnheit 86" to dO\'>. t I'iilu-. 10; 372 THAVKLS ON sum< warmest siinnincr tlicy ever experienced. The north-west winds arc cold; south, south •cast« and south-west winds nre warm in mer, and mild in winter ; and they arc the most prevalent. Seven miles below this we reached Port Wiih'am, at the mouth of Kcntucity river, where we stopped for the night. Port William is a small place, consisting of about 15 families only; and bein? subject to fever and ague in the full, it is not likely to increase verv fast. We were informed here, that some of the country people still retain their vicious propensity for fighting, biting, and goug* ing, and that they had lately introduced stabbing ; a practice which had been learned at New Orleans ; but the laws being very severe ogainst these vices, the lawless were kept in check, and the state of society wos in oving. The comet this night was uncommonly vivid. The evening was very warm, the thermometer being 76'. Kentucky river is here 200 yards wide. Sep. 1 7. We set out at 5 o'clock : the morning was fog/i)' ; the temperature of the air 62°, of the water 71". Twelve miles Ix^ low Kentucky river we came to a town called Madison, recently laid out in the Indiana territory, as the capital of JefTcrson county. It is situated on a fertile bottom, and contains 12 families; 3 tavemg and 2 stores, 2 blacksmiths, 2 hatters, 1 brickmaker, ond 1 stone- mason. The back country is rich, and settling very fast The country here appears rather level, but to the southward it becomes more elevated. A short time after leaving this place, there was a great eclipse of the sun, and the water and surrounding scenery as- sumed a very dismal appearance here while it lasted. In the even- ing we reached another new town on the Indiana territory, called Bethlehem, and here we stopped all night. The inhabitants here were a collection from different quarters.— Our accommodations were very indifferent, but, to use their own phrase, they were new settlers^ and we must not expect ntceties.- Thc town is laid out on a fine rich bottom, three streets being pa- rallel to the river, and three cross at right angles. The township I extends along the river five miles, and one and a quarter into the interior of the country. The lots are half an acre each, and sell at present for 60 dollars. September 18. — We started this morning at 6 o'clock. The river is here three quarters of a mile broad, and exhibits a noble appearance. As we proceeded downward we perceived a hcnvinefisj in the atmosphere, an evident sign that the south winds waft ninrsh THE OHIO RIVBR. 373 Juvia to this place, which niny account for the fever and ague thnt lometimcs prevoils in the fall. We now observed that the people »ercp«lc in colour, and had not that rosy hue which they have above in Cincinnati ; but it is to he remarked, that they are mostly nrx settlers^ ond are very mixed. The river widened out as we pro- ceeded to the fulls, above which a good way, on the Kentucky side, there are many rich settlements. Wc heard the sound of the fulls when six miles distant, and wc came to a landing at Louisville at 1 1 o'clock at night. From the observations made on this fine river, in my progress, the reader will be able to form a pretty accurate idea of it above tlie falls. In my account of Louisville, I ^hall advert to the falls themselves, and shall close this chapter by n short account of the river below the falls, together with a few incidental remurksi on some particulars relative to the river generally. The length of the river, from the falls to the Mississippi, is, ac- cording to Mr. Ellicot, 483 miles. It is 795 miles from Pittsburg to the falls, making the whole length of the Ohio 1188 miles. — llic breadth below the fulls continues nearly the same as above them, from 000 to 700 yards, till within 100 miles of the Mississippi, when it is 1000 yards. The scenery on the river below the falls is agreeably variegated with hills and plains for about 50 miles, when the country on each side becomes quite level for 150 miles. It then swells out into hills, which continue a considerable way, and again subsides into level plains, which continue to the junction of the Ohio with the Missis- tippi. The point of land at the confluence of the rivers, which is apt to excite so much attention in the map, is subject to be inun- dated by the vast freshets in these mighty waters, and it is thence marshy and uncultivated. The banks of the river are as yet but thinly settled below the ialls, and the country is said not to be so healthy as above them ; though the soil is good, and it will all be settled up at no great dis- tance of time. The Ohio receives the waters of very considerable rivers between the fall and the Mississippi, viz. on the Kentucky aide, Salt river, navigable 50 miles ; Green river, navigable 160 miles; Cumber- land river, navigable 300 or 400 miles ; and Tennessee river, na- vigable 1200 or 1400 miles; onthclndiana side. Blue river, navi- le 40 miles ; and the AA^ibash, navigable upwards of 200 miles. ,t lie 'Ifi' I 374 TRAVELS ON The navigation is easy to the falls, and, after overcominj; ihat •ingle obstruction, thence to Cincinnati and Limestone. From Limestone to Wheeling there area number of swift currents at ilic islands ; but they present no material obstruction, except when the water is very low. From Wheeling to Pittsburg, the number of these swift currents are increased, and they are more diiBcult to pass ; but the water is very seldom in such a state as to be imnmr sable in keel-boats. In skifra it is passable at all times. The velocity of the current depends upon the quantity of water, which is exceedingly various. When I descended, it was in the lowest state ; and I did not calculate the velocity lo be more than a mile an hour, including the ripples and Letart's falls. In spring and fall, particularly in spring, it rises to the astonishing height of from 40 to 60 feet, when the velocity is augmented in proportion. The greatest velocity seems not to exceed 4 miles an hour. The prevailing winds here are from the south and south-west, and blow up the river, often exhibiting the appearance of the ti'ade*wuids of the West Indies, setting in about 8 or 9 o'clock in the morning, and dying away at 4 or 5 o'clock in the afternoon. These are of great consequence in the navigation of the river up- wards. Judging from the winds and current, when we descended, I presumed that we could have sailed from the falls to Pittsburg in little more than half the time we were in coming down. In high water, boats have passed from Pittsburg to the mouth of the Ohio in 15 days. Ten days is reckoned a quick passage to the falls. The principal articles of trade downwards are flour, iron, tin and copper-wares, cabinet-work, glass, mill-stones, grindstones, apples, cyder, porter, whiskey, and peach-brandy. Upwards, they are cotton, hemp, hemp manufactures, lead, salt, and some- times sugar and coffee from New Orlean. , The Ohio abounds with a great variety of fish, among which «re catfish, pike, percli, and sturgeon ; and on the banks are great numbers of wild turkies, geese, ducks, pheasants, partridg- es, &C. The banks of the river are generally heavily timbered. The principal kinds of timber arc oak, hickory, walnut, miilberr)-, chesnut, ash, cherry, locust, sugar-tree, &c.; and the sycamore* towering above the whole, grows here to an astonishing size. I noticed the remains of a very large sycamore tree in the neigh* TUB OHIO RIVER. 375 tx)urhood of Pittsburg, and I saw most surprl/ing specimens on the banks of this river. I did not measure any of them; but the editor of the Pittsburg Navigator, to vihosc testimony full faith may be given, mentions that he measured several from 10 to 16 feet in diameter. A gentleman from Marietta told him that he knew of one 60 feet in circumference, and that, in the hollow of another, he had turned himself round, with a pole in his hand 10 feet long. Into the hollow of another 1 3 men rode on horse- back, in June 1806, and the fourteenth was only prevented by the ikittislmess of his horse. The climate is delightful, and, except in some places in the neighbourhood of ponds, which can be easily drained, is perfect- ly healthy, particularly between Pittsburg and Cincinnati. The fogs that rise on the river are by no means uncongenial to health ; indeed, I think they arc rather the reverse; being the pure wa- ter of the Ohio in a state of vapour. Aqueous vapour contains a much larger proportion of vital air than the atmosphere ; and it is never too cold for the lungs, as it rises only in summer, when the licat of the water is greater than the atmosphere. From a number of cx^)eriments, which I made with an accurate thermometer, I found that, in the night, the temperature of the air fre- quently fell from 10 to 25 degrees below when this was the case, the vapour rose, the disproportion of temperature between the two fluids. A frequent result in the morning, at sun-rise, was, air about 60**, water about 71" of temperature. About 7 o'clock, the influence of the sun begins to be felt, and the fog to disperse; and, by the time that the air is heated to the same degree as the water, which seldom exceeds 8 or 9 o'clock, the fog wholly disappears. A never-failing result of my observations was, that, when the two fluids were near the same decree of temperature, or when the air wag warmer than the water, there was no fog. From this view of the subject it will be inferred, that the banks I are congenial to all sorts of vegetation ; and fruits flourish in an eminent degree. In these fogs, therefore, we see the bounty of I'rovidence displayed in the economy of nature. The Ohio runs in » deep bed, and forms such a drain as is calculated to deprive the adjoining banks of their moisture; but these fogs lend their kindly assistance to supply the defect, and their balmy influence U the water, and increasing with ;!> "Til 376 TRAVELS OK highly beneficial to the animal and vegetable creations, both of which flourish here in a very eminent degree. Thirty years ago, the whole country on the banks of this nvcr was almost an entire wilderness. Twenty years ago, a friend of mine descended, and could hardly get provisions by the wav. When I descended, I found its banks studded with towns and farm-houses, so close that I slept on shore every night. I have no doubt but that, in 20 years more, the change will surpass all calculation ; and, in process of time, the banks of this river ;vi!! exhibit one continued village, from Pittsburg to the falls ; the settlements being thickest, probably, between Limestone and Cin- cinnati, which situation I would at present prefer to any on the river. What a fine prospect is held out here to the human race ! and how delightful the contemplation of it to a benevolent mind ! The whole of the banks of this beautiful river are fit for cultivation. Allowing it, therefore, to be divided into farms of 160 acres each, liaving a quarter of a mile on the river, and a mile back from it, and each farm to maintain 10 persons, the district from Fitts* burg to the falls would contain upwards of 60,000 souls; and their surplus produce would support double that number of in- dustrious tradesmen and their families, in the various towns settled upon it. To continue the settlements to New Orleans, the num- ber would be nearly 300,000. And yet this is but a small portion of the western country, the rivers of which, emptying into the Mississippi alone, water more than a millicm of square miles of fertile land, capable of supporting 200 millions of Lihabitants. Here, indeed, is room enough for mankind to the thousandth and thousandeth generation ; and blessed are they who, looking up to Heavcn,vand to their own soil and industry, act in obe- dience to the command of God, " Be fruitful, and multiply, and replenish the earth." ••A V *- i i rv TUB OHIO RIVBR. CHAPTER LXXVI. 377 LouisviUei—Jeffersonville^—Clarksvillct — Falls of the Ohio. Louisville is situated opposite the fails of the Ohio, on an elevation of 70 feet above the river, and extends along it from Bear Grass creek nearly half a mile. Its breadth is about half that distance. It is regularly laid out, with streets crossing one another at right angles ; but the principal buildings are confined to one street. It consists of about 250 houses, many of them handsome brick buildings, and contains 1357 inhabitants, of whom 484 are slaves. Baing a place of great resort on the river, it has an ample number of taverns and stores. Except the manu- facture of ropes, rope-yarn, and cotton-bagging, which are car- ried on with spirit, there are no other manufactures of importance at Loaisville, and the tradesmen are such as are calculated for the country. The price of labour here is nearly the same as at Cin- cinnati. Some articles of provision are dearer, this being a more convenient port for shipping than any above it. When I was there, flour sold for 5 dollars 50 cents per barrel; meal 50 cent:! per cwt Boarding was from 1 dollar 25 cents to 2 dollars per week. Louisville, being the principal port of the westiern part of the state of Kentucky, is a market for the purchase of all kinds of produce, and the quantity that is annually shipped down the river is immense. A' few of the articles, with the prices at the time that I was there, may be noticed. Flour and meal have been quot- «d. Wheat was 62^ cents per bushel; corn 50; rye 42; oats 25; hemp 4 dollars 50 cents per cwt. ; tobacco 2 dollars. Horses 25 to 100 dollars; cows 10 to 15 dollars; sheep 1 dollar 25 cents to 5 dollars; negroes about 400 dollars; cotton bagging 31^ cents I per yard. As to the state of society I cannot say much. The place is jcomposcd of people from all quarters, who are principally engag- |el in commerce ; and a great number of the traders on the Ohio lare constantly at this place, whose example will be nothing in jiavour of the young ; and slavery is against society every where. ifhere are several schools, but none of them are under public [patronage; and education seems to be but indilFerently attended 48 TRAVELS ON 378 to. Upon the whole, I must say, that the state of public inorali admits of consirlcrable unprovcnicnt here; but indeed I law Louisville at a -^i ason when a number of the most rcspecfalle people were out of the plaec. Those with whom I had busincsi were gentlemen, and I hope there arc a sufTicieut number of them to check the progress of gaming and drinking, and to teach the young and the thoughtless, that mankind, without virtue and in- dustry, cannot be happy. JcFFERSONViLLE is situatcd on the opposite side of the river, a little above Louisville, and is the capital of Clark county, in tl)e Indiana territory. It was laid out In 1802 and now contains about 200 inhabitants, among whom are some useful mechanics. The United States have a land-office at this place, but the principal objects of my inquiry being more to the eastward, I did not visit it. There is a good landing at JelTersonville, and, as the best passage is through what is called the Indian Shute, it is pro- bnble that this place will materially interfere with the trade of Louisville, unless it be prevented by a plan to be hereafter noticed, in which case, each side will have its own share of the valuable cbark their capital in it, there is no question but the United States, and tlie individual states noticed, would fill up the subscription, were the matter judicious- ly laid before them. As to the supposition that it would hurt the trade of Louisville, if it exists, it is founded on very narrow policj-, and is just as correct an idea, as that a good turnpike road leading through a town, will hurt the trade of that town. A free com- manication through a country is favourable to every portion of that country ; and were a canal cut upon the Kentucky side here, it would not only counterbalance the benefit arising to the other side from the Indian Shuto, but would be productive of advan- tages to Louisville, that at present cannot be estimated. The mills alone that might be erecteil, and set in motion by a judicious ap- plication of the water, would be of more intrinsic value than a gold mine. The following table, exhibiting the commerce on the Ohio, is extracted from the Pittsburg Navigator, and shows the import- ance of this place, and the vast utility of a canal. Commerce of the Ohio from November 24th, 1810, to Janu- ary 24th, 1811. In these two months 197 flat-boats, and 1* keel-boats dcscend- «1 the falls of the Ohio, coi'rying Mi; ^ 111 irJ 380 TRAVELS ON THE OHIO BIVBR. ] 8^611 Us. flour 520 do. pork 2,873 do. whiskey S,759 do. apples 1,085 do. cyder 721 do. do. royal 43 do. do. witie 323 do. peach-brandy 46 do. cherry-bounce 17 do. viQ^ar 143 do. porter 62 do. beans 67 do. onions 20 do. ginseng 200 groce bottled porter 260 gallons Seneca oil 1,526 lbs. butter .♦, 180 do. tallow 64,750 do. lard 6,300 do. beef 681,900 lbs. pork in bulk 4,601) do. bacon 59 do. soap 300 do. i'entiiers 400 do. hemp 1,484 do. thread 1 54,000 do. rope-yarn 20,784 do. bale-rope 27,700 yards bagging 4,619 do. tow-cloth 479 coils tarred rope 500 bushels oats 1,700 do. corn 216 do. potatoes 817 hams venison 14,390 tame fowls 155 horses 286 slaves 18,000 feet cherry plank 279,300 do. pine do. 4,433 do. cheese Also, a large quantity of potter's ware, ironmongery, cabinet- work, shoes, boots, and saddlery ; the amount of which could not be correctly ascertained. The country round Louisville is rich, but it is not well drained nor cultivated, and is consequently subject to fever and ague in the fall. There are a great many ponds in the neighbourhood of the town ; at one of them, I observed a rope- walk erectiug, and the people were draining the pond, by sinking a deep well, and letting the water run into it, which answered the purpose remark- ably well. It would appear hence, that the water filtrates to the river below ground, and perhaps this plan might be generally a- dopted. I am persuaded that nothing but draining is wanted to render Louisville /juile healthy, a^d one ^ the jnpst agreeable situations on tlie Oliio river. •.; ^, Is situated betw west longitude 7° miles, and its brea( 21,960,000 acres. The face of the Kenery is said to be and large prairies. The principal rivt I tiful stream, 280 yai I of220 miles. It ris< Ohio and the Indiai where there is a por Miami of the lakes. lance it runs, includ: A great many tribut; White river, upward which are the largest into the Wabash ; ai I Prophet is at present The soil is said to 1 The climate is dcliji |es, chiefly confined tt The settlements con I made considerable pi lihe settlement of the i (situated between this t The greater part oi J^Vhere tliey have been mw made, it is dividi INDIANA TCRBITORY. SSi CHAPTER LXXVII. Indiana Territoty, — Illinois Taritoii/y — North-West Territory^ — Louisiana Ttrritory^ — Orleans IhrUofi/y — Mississippi Terri- tan/, Mississippi rivin-. Being now at the 7ic plus ultra of my journey to the westward, I shall here take a brief view of the weslern territories. INDIANA TERRITORY Is situated between north hititiicL' 37" 47' and 41" 50'; and west longitude 7° 40' and 10" 45'. Its greatest length is 284 miles, and its breadth 155. Its area is 39,000 square miles; or, 21,960,000 acres. The face of the country is hilly, not mountainous, and the icenery is said to be rich and variegated, abounding with plaint and large prairies. The principal river is the Wabash, which is said to be a beau* tifui stream, 280 yards broad at its outlet, and navigable upwards of220 miles. It rises near the boundary line between the state of Ohio and the Indiana Territory, about 100 miles from lake Erie, where there is a portage of only eight miles between it and the Miami of the lakes. Its course is nearly south-west, and the dis- tance it runs, including its windings, is not less than 500 miles. A great many tributary streams flow into it, the chief of which is White river, upwards of 200 miles long. Tippacanoe river, near which are the largest settlements of Indians in tlie territory, falU into the Wabash ; and it ij near the outlet of that river where the Prophet is at present collecting his forces. . llie soil is said to be generally rich and fertile. The climate is delightful, except in the neighbourhood of marsh- |c8, chiefly confined to the lower parts of the territory. The settlements commenced about 12 or 14 years ago, and havQ bade considerable progress, though they have been retarded by Ithe settlement of the fertile and beautiful state of Ohio, which ii pitiiatcd between this and the old states. The greater part of the territory is yet subject to Indian claims. jWhere they have been extinguished, and the white settlements hav« mu made, it is divided into four counties, and 22 towosbipS| tb& ^1 n^ j*;l J^l :im 382 INDIANA TKRIIITORY. greater part of which are on the Ohio : and some few on ilif Wabash and White-wctcr river. The inhabitanu uuiounted, by the census of 1800, to oG-i-i ; they now amount to 24,520, bcun an increase of 18,879 in 10 years. The principal town is Vincennes, on the Wabnsh. It is an old settlement, and the inhabitunts are mostly of* I-'rojicb exliuciioii ; they amounted, by last census, to 670. Tlic greater part of tbt others have been noticed. The agriculture of tlie territory is nearly the same as that of the state of Ohio. Evei^ kind of grain, grass, and fruit comes to maturity, and towards the southern part of it considerable cropii ot cotton are raised, though only for domestic use. As the inhabitants make nearly all their own clothing, they liave little external trade. What little they have is down the river to New Orleans. This, in common with the other territories, is under the immc* diate controul of the government of the United States. It has a certain form of government prescribed by a special ordinance of congress, by which the religious and political rights of the mem- bers of the community are guaranteed. In this ordinance it is declared, that no person demeaning himself in n peaceable and orderly manner shall ever be molested on accomit of his religion. The inhabitants shall always be entitled to the benefits of the writ of habeas corpus, and the trial by jury. All offences shall be bail- able unless they are capital. Fines shall be moderate. Religion, morality, and knowledge, being necessary to good government and the happiness of mankind, schools and the means of education shall for ever be encouraged. Good faith shall always be observed to the Indians, and their lands shall never be taken from them with- out their consent The navigable waters leading into the Missis- sippi and St. Lawrence, and tlie carrying places between the same, shall be common highways, and for ever free, as well to the inliiv- bitants of the said tci*ritorits as to the citizens of the United States, and those of any other states that may be admitted into the confederacy, without any tax, impost, or duty therefore. Whenever any of the territories shall have 60,000 free inhabitants, they shall be erected into a state, to be admitted, by its delegate-s into the congress of the United States, on an equal footing with the original states. Slavery was originally prohibited, but the law has been relaxed in favour of the new settlers who have slaveS) and tliere are now 237 slaves in this territory. ILLIKOlt TKHRITOHY. S8S ILLINOIS TERRITORY Is situated between 36o 57' and 41 » SO' north lotitude; ond 10* 15' and 14** 5' west longitude. Its greutest length is 347 miles, and iu greatest breadth 206. Its area is 52,000 squnre miles ; being 33,280,000 acres. The face of the country is very much assimilated to that of the Indiana Territory ; but towards the south the surface becomes very level, and the point of land between the Mississippi and Ohio rivers is frecjucntly overflowed. , It is washed on the westward by the noble Mississippi river, and on the south by the Ohio. In the interior arc many considerable streams, nearly all emptying into the Mississippi. Beginning at the northern extremity, the first is Stoney river, a large navigable stream upwards or '220 miles long, and having fertile banks. The '"lois is a veiy large navigable river, rising near the south ond of lal » i ' r -.->*-■•»,/- . ;l ri :4tai: LI ! 'M ••»•■.- -..I dS4 Till NORTII^WEbT TEnnirORY. THE NORTH-WEST TERRITOIIY. This large tract has no name on tlic maps, but, in conwqMencp of its position, I have given it the above designation hero It is Iwunded on the west by the Mississippi river, on tlie east by lukc Micliigan, and the straits of St. Mary, on the south by tlie two territories just noticed, and on the north by lake Superior nndth? l^ritish possessions. The territory is about 48G miles long, bv 417 brood; and contains 106,830 square miles, or 68,371,200 ficres. y}''> The iUcc of the country is pretty similar to the territories lajt noticed. It is elegantly watered, llie Mississippi washes it upon the west, lake Michigan on the east, lake Superior upon the north and it has several fine rivers in the interior. Towards the north tlicre are a number of considerable streams which fall into the Mississippi, that nearly interlock with others that fall into lake Superior. But the largest river in the territory is the Ouisconsiii, which rises within 50 miles of lake Superior, and after a course of 400 miles falls into the Mississippi, 350 miles above the Missouri, j Fox river rises in the high lands near the banks of the last mention* cd river, and runs nearly parallel to it for 50 miles, at one place approaching within 3 miles of it. From thence it pursues a north- east course, and passing through Winnebago lake, falls into! Grcenbay, a branch of lake Michigan. Both these rivers are na- 1 vigable, and in a future stage of population they will probably Ibrm an excellent communication between the lakes and the Mis- blSMp^.l. , \ ■' This territory is said to contain a great deal of good soil, par- ticularly towards the south, and will, in process of time, become I the seat of very valuable settlements. The climate is pleasant towards the south, being assimilated to I that of the western parts of New- York, but towards the north it becomes very cold; though', being within the influence of the ae- rial current of the Mississippi, it Is not so cold as the region pa- rallel to it east of the mountams. Very few settlements of white people have yet been made in this territory; and the Indian claim to the lands remain, I believe, en- tire, throughout the whole district ; so that it has not yet been form- ed into a territorial government, and the inhabitants are not inclu The face of the country is somewhat similar to those parts of I Orleans Territory and Louisiana Territory that arc opposite to it. Towards the south it is pretty level ; but it becomes more elevat- ed to the northward; and in the north-east there are some spurs of | the Allegany mountains. It is remarkably wtll watered with rivers'and small streams. The I Mississippi, including its windings, waters it on the west nearljl 600 miles, and receives several rivers, particularly the Yazoo andj Black rivers ; the former of which is rendered remarkable by the I speculation in the public lands on its banks, known by the nantel of the Yazoo speculation. The Tennessee river runs through the I northern part of tliis territory by a remarkable bend ; and at the! Muscle shoals, on that river, canals have been projected to thel Tvimbekby, a large navigable stream that flows into the Gulf oti l^eKico, througk Mobile bay. The Alabama, which is compose of several large streams rising in Georgia,, forms a junction vitl this river. The other principal streams are Pearl river, Pa goula, Coneci|h, and Chatahouchy, which last is the boundarvJ for a considerable way, between this territory and Georgia. Th greater part of these rivers are navigable, and fall into the Gu of Mexico, through Florida ; which circumstance shows of bo« much importance it is to the safety ^nd prosperity of this portioij of the United States to have possession of the Floridas. We Florida, as far as Perdido river, was ceded to the United Sti MISSISSIPPI TKltRITORY. 391 gloDg with Louisiana, and, judging from recent transactions, we may conclude that they will soon be in possession of the whole, which will be productive of a lusting benefit, both to the inhabi- tants of Florida and the United States. ' '' There is in this territory a great diversity of soil ; but it con- tains much excellent land in the lower part, principally on the wter courses. In the northern part, it extends throughout the territory. The principal timber in the lower parts is pine ; in the opper parts, oak, hickory, walnut, cherry, and poplar. The climate is represented as "highly favourable ; the winters being mild, and the summers not materially hotter than several d^cs farther to the northward. The heat is seldom oppressive *ithia doors, and the nights are said to be more comfortable than in Virginia. There is but little snow or ice ; so that the cattle I graze in the fields all winter, a circumstance highly favourable to thehusbaudman. The following extracts are from a register kept 1 near Fort Stoddart. , . Warmest. Coldest. 1807. April "fi, Ther. 52° 15, 82 710 May 2, ; 66 61 17, . 90 80 June 6, 90 1 ^'■' I 82 28, "^ ' 82 69 July 10, -" 94 78 29, ' ;: . 74 65 Mean heat in July, 86». Aug. 2, 'I'her. 88° Sept. 5, 95 80° 8» 74 Mean heat in September, 84 <> 1808. Jan. 8, Ther. 55° 9, 61 21, " 60 56* Feb. 8, . ; 56 : 43 . •. 62 , . March 21, ' 63 55 .: •; * "28, ' 86 ,- - J > = - - . ,!j ■, -1 ', '-i The days selected are the warmest and coldest in the respective nonths. ^^ S92 MISSISSIPPI TEARITOHT. April 2, Trees were in leafi • • 12, Peas in pod. May 2, Green peas at table. Strawberries ripe* 16f Mulberries ripe. June 1 9, Roasting ears (of corn) at table. . Lettuce and cabbage stand well all winter. This extensive territory was originally claimed by the state of Georgia, and. in 1795, the legislature of that state sold 22,000,000 of acres of lane! in it for 500,000 dollars ; but the act authorizing the sale was objected to by a succeeding legislature. The sale was declared null and void, and the records relative to it were pub- licly burnt. It was claimed by the United States, and, in 1800, «rected into a territory. The inhabitants have lately petitioned to be admitted into the union as a state ; but the measure has not yet been decided on by congress. The territory is at present divided into 1 1 counties and 2 town?, and contains 40,352 inhabitants, of whom 17,088 are slaves, and 240 free negroes. The Indian population is about 40,000 more; and some of the tribes, it is said, look forward to be admitted into the union as citizens of the United States. The principal settlements in this territory are along the Missis- sippi river. Natches is the capital, and contains 1511 iniiabi- tants. Adams county in this district contains 5,030 inhabitants, Wilkinson county 5,068, and Madison county 4,699 ; but the i greater part of the settlers are scattered throughout the land, and it is said that few of the plantations exhibit any thing like neatness, being even without fences to protect the crops. The principal produce is Indian corn and cotton. Some wheat, I rye, and oats are raised Rice is cultivated in the river swamps and indigo and sugar-cane are cultivated to a considerable extent. The principal manufactures are household stufS, principally of| cotton. The trade to the westward is through the medium of the Mis- sissippi. To the eastward, the surplus produce, consisting prin- cipally of corn, beef, and pork, finds a market in Mobile and! Fensacola. Vessels drawing 13 or 14 feet of water can go easier to Fort Stoddart than to New Orleans; and it is said there are no material obstructions in the Tumbekby rivei* 40 miles abovel Fort Stoddart. . MISSISSIPPI KIVER. 393 In the settlements contiguous to the Mississippi, society has le considerable progress; but, towards the Mobile, they are so scattered, that they have no fixed character. There arc no colWes, no permanent schools, no regular places of worship, no literary institutions, no towns, no good houses, and but few coiu- fortible ones. There are few mechanics, and scarcely any pro- fessional men, except lawyers.* I shall conclude this chapter with a short account of the MISSISSIPPI RIVER. This noble river, which has been emphatically termed the Nile of America, though it is in fact much larger than that river, rises in a lake, in latitude 48° 16', and being joined by a great variety of small streams, it passes the falls of St. Anthony, 29 feet in height, in latitude 45°, where it is little more than 100 yards wide. From thence it runs a course east of south, and receives one consider- able river from the west, and two from the east ; and, in latitude ♦2°, it receives t'.ie Ouisconsin, by which there is a communica- tion with lake Michigan. In latitude 39°, it receives the important Illinois river from the east, and a few miles below, the Missouri from the west, being the main branch, and by far the longest, having been navigated to the westward upwards of 3000 miles. The waters above this are clear, but the Missouri is a muddy stream, and imparts its hue to the Mississippi. In latitude 37°, it forms a junction with the Ohio, which may be called the great eastern branch, as the Missouri is the western. There is now a vast collection of waters, and it rolls along with a majestic sweep, by a serpentine course, through a very variegated country, but, upon the whole, rather level; and after receiving in its progress the Yazoo and Black river from the east, and the St. Francis, Arkansas, and Red river from the west, besides innumerable small streams, it falls into the gulf of Mexico, 118 miles below New Orleans; its whole length being upwards of 2500 milej. The breadth of the river is varioui?. At its junction with the Missouri, it is about half a mile, at the Ohio three-fourths, ut Natches one mile, at New Orleans a mile and hall^ at its outlet two miles ; but it varies considerably between these points. The quantify of water that is discharged by this mighty river is immense. From the Missouri to the Ohio, it is about IJ fcec -■ ' - - .;- ■ - , > ._ _ • Pittsburg Navigator. i ' i 50 *i k m\ **«»;; 394 MISSISSIPPI RIVER. deep; from the Ohio to New Oilcans 30 to 60; and from thence to the gulf of Mexico, 30 to 40. The current is from three and a half to four miles an hour, and when high somewhat greater. Assuming ns a data, that the current is four miles an hour at ib outlet, the breadth two miles, and the depth 40 feet, a calculation nmy be made of the water discharged. It amounts to the as- tonishing cjtiantity of 94 millions of gallons per second, or 5640 millions per minute. The banks of the river above the Ohio, are pretty similar to those of that river, lielow that, the country becomes more level and a considerable part of the way the river runs on a ridtre, ferni- cd by the eaith carried down by the annual inundation. At some places it overflows its banks, during the freshets, to the amazing extent of 50 miles, principally to the westward ; and part of thij water never returns, but goes to the ocean by other channels. From New Orleans to Natches, these overflowings are prevented by a bank colled a levee, and in all this distance the banks are well cultivated. It is probable that this system will be adopted through- out the low country, in which case the very rich country on \u banks will support a vast population, and raise an immense quan- tily of produce. The trade of this river is already very great, but it is small com> pared to what it will be. The settlement of a country so rich, and 80 well supplied with navigable rivers, under a form of government which guarantees equal rights to all, must bring forward surplus produce to a great extent ; and as it must all find an outlet by this river, it will unquestionably constitute it the greatest commercial river, and New Orleans one of the greatest depots, in the universe. This view suggests, even at this early period, of what importance it is to endeavour, by every means, to clear the river of all olistruc- tions, and to render the gi-eat city of New Orleans as healthy and as comfortable as circumstances will admit.* • Tbe obstacles to the navigation of this river are lessening every year. The item- boat, whivh 1 noticed at Pittsburg, bar. b.en iitartcd between New <"htv;- snnd Nateh«,| ond is found to ansver tlic purpose remarkably well. Little doubt remains, buttbitj tlie line of stcain-Uo;its will be established to Pittsburg, and probably another to St. Louis ; in which case llic"!e rivers will be all navigable upwards with a degree of fcdl- ity, tliat wiH ensuro a return without a tedious passage by the Atlantic ports, llic plM noticed for atipplylng New Orleans with water, will be a most important improvement to the city, and, as the country settles up, it will bp all drained, and it is to be hoped J become ^uite healthy. MISSISSIPPI RIVBR.' 395 I shall close this account of one of the noblest rivers in the world, i)y the following pertinent remarks from the Pittsburg Navigator. <' What a reverse in ihe situation of a trader, since the banks of the Mississippi have become the soil of the United States ; since the governor of a republicjm peoj)le has been happily placed in the chair of, not one, but many tyrants ; since, in tact, he traf- fics with those to whom he looks up as fricndis, instead of thosp wliose every glance was dire jealousy and suspicion — whose de- meanor, bombastic pride and ostentation — whose pursuit and plan in trade was one continued system of bribery, fraud, and chican- ery, from the first authority in the old, to the last in this their fo- reign government !* What a reverse is the situation of you, western Americans ! What a conquest gained I — A conquest e(]ual to a se- cond revolution — a vast and almost unlimited territory acquired without the loss of a drop of blood. Happy Columbians I prosperity fniiles — must smile — on all governments equally mild and just with I" vours ! * The folluwing anecdote, copied from Schultz't Travels, afibrds some idea of the I ilumeless corruption and villany of the Spanish government. 'At the lower end of the town of St Genevieve, is still to be seen the remains of a Spinish fort, which, being erected on an emineiice, orresponded with that of Kaskas* lilt by signals. I was informed of a very singular transaction relative to the building lofthisforU ' It leems, after the fort was completed, the commandant had to wait upon the I pTUtor of the province to present his charges. They were accordingly presented, ud amounted to 421 dollars. The governor, after examining the account, returned it to the commandant, informing him there was some mistake. The commandant retired I iid examined it again, but, finding it entirely correct, presented it once more. Tim l{OTenior, on looking it over, imformed hiaa it was still incorrect, -^nd advised him to I consult with some friend, as he had omitted a figure or two. The commandant then lolltd upon a friend to look over his accounts with him, who no sooner saw the amount, Itlun he burst into a loud laugh, and taking up a pen added a O to the sura already pted. The commandant presented bis accounU the third time, when his excellency Inplied it was not quite right yet. The commandant was amazed ! but what was his IwuniNliment, when he related the affair to his fncud, to see him add another to the tsum, making it 42,100 insUad of 421 ! On presenting tlie account the fourth time it *u graciously received ; and for the discharge of the whole a very small part was paid "the commandant. 396 TRAVELS IN J CHAPTER LXXVIII. Leave Lauisvilley — Middletottt — Shelbx/ville^ — FranJ^orf^-^Veisailh — Lexington, i. --^v Ou RING my stny at Louisville, the tbrentenedlndian war wai the general topic of conversation, and the inhabitants here were not so sanguine as those at Cincinnati. They thought there would certainly be fighting, though they did not apprehend there would be any serious battle ; and they had no fear whatever that any part of Kentucky would be disturbed. Captain Baen, my fellow-pas-l senf^cr, assured me, when we were on the river, that t]ierewasun- lished, and thriving, principally of hemp and wool. Cotton and wool spinning by machinery are contemplated. The people here, and from hence to Louisville, are all clothed in home-made manu> factures. Land in the neighbourhood sells for 8 dollars. September 2Sd. I fell in here with a gentleman from Georgia, and we agreed to travel together to Frankfort. We passed Clear creek at the end of the town, and took a near road through the woods, which, like the other original roads through tliis country, winds along the top of a dry ridge. The morning was fine, and our journey very pleasant ; the country rich, and many of the farms well cultivated. The foliage on the trees was beautifully tinted, and the choiristcrs of the forest delighted us with their song. We passed several creeks, mostly dried up, and reached a tavern 13 miles from Shelbyville, romantically situated at the foot of a hill, with a creek winding along right before the house. Here we stop- ped to breakfast. After breakfast we travelled about a mile to Benson creek, which runs in a very deep valley, with steep limestone banks. We de- scended into this valley, and travelled through a very romantic country, crossing the creek several times in our progress, and at 1 o'clock reached Frankfort, the capital of Kentucky, 6 miles from where we stopped to breakfast. *; -,., i' "l^ > " I immediately waited on colonel Greenup, the late goveraor, to m "I't'lr Pi.' :|' 'J 9S TRAV1L8 IN' whom I had a letter of introducton, and he very politely corrieil mc tu see every thing of consequence in the town. 'I'hc statc-iiouse is a hand:>unie cdilicu of stone, and the apartments are convenient for transacting the public business. The penitentiary is somewhat upon the plan of the state-prison of Philadelphia, and is under such excellent management that the institution supports itself by a judi> cious application of the labour of the convicts. They were at this time 3i in number. Various mechanical branches were carried on; but the convicts were mostly employed in sawing marble in the o> pen yard. Here, one worthy was pointed out to us whose offence was gouging. The law for that offence is strictly put in execution, and is imprisonment for not less than 2, and not more than 1 years, with a fine of not more than 1000 dollars, of which two- thirds goes to the sufferer. That crime, we were informed, Ls not now so com< men as formerly, as a number of the quarrelsome miscreants have adopted the practice of stabbing, before noticed. The criminal code of this state has been lately arranged on a new plan, and is now con- udered very judicious ; and this, together with the natural progress of civilization, will tend to purge the dross from Kentucky, and es- tablish her character among the other states for virtue and good morals. Criminals of all descriptions are admitted, except those convicted of murder of the first degree, vidch is punished with death. We saw some very handsome specimens of marble, from the banks of the Kentucky river. Many of the slabs were varier ^ated with the impressions of leaves of trees, and one had the ex* act resemblance of a bird on it , . v r •From the penitentiary we passed to the cotton-bagging manufac- tory, and thence to the river, where a chain bridge was building; but its progress was suspended for want of funds. The river here runs in a deep bed, with steep limestone banks, and is about 80 or 90 yards wide. It is navigable in freshets about ^00 miles ; but the navigation is much obstructed, and very uncer* tain. It has its source at the south-east corner of the state, among the mountainSt - >- . . - I spent the evening very much to my satisfaction, in company vith governor Greenup, and by his assistance compiled materials for the ibllowing short account of this place. Frankfort is situated in a small plain, with high land to the cast, a pretty high hill to the north-east, and the Kentucky river bounds it on theoier sides, ininning in the form of a half moon. It is neat* KENTUCKY. 590 ly laid out, the streets crossing one nnother at right nngleo, and thcj arc mostly all paved. It consists of about 150 houses, the most of them iiandsomcly built with brick, and contains 1099 inhabitantn. The public buildings are the state-house and penitentiary aforesaid^ and a bank. A theatre and church arc building. There is a considerable commerce in the produce of the country on the river; and, till of late, a great many English goods were sold; but in consequence of the low price of produce, the inhabitant* have been obliged to make their own clothing, and a spirit for do- mestic manufactures now prevails amongst all classes of the people. Two manufactories of cotton-bagging have been recently establish- ed, and are doing well ; and two rope-M'alks, a tobacco factory, and several carding machines, are also in operation. A number of branch- es of manufactures could be established here to advantage, the chief of which are beer and porter brewing, which must go hand in hand with a manufacture of glass bottles ; carding and spiiming of cotton, and, connected with this, wire for cards. A stocking manufactory on a small scale would succeed ; and^ere are probably some others. Mechanics can make from one to two dollars per day, and board- ing is very low. In the state of society there is considerable room for improvement. A great many of the young men are addicted to gaming, a vice that generally leads to others of a more serious nature; but indeed the waste of precious time, which Dr. Franklin very appropriately terms "the stuff that life is made of," is bad enough in itself. However, asinformation begins to be amply diffused, particularly among the fair sex, who may be termed the sweeteners of life, it i^ , be hoped the young men, and the more advanced in years too, will bend their attention to virtuous industry, which has its certain reward ; while that of gamiug is not only precarious, but whatever is gained by it is more than lost to the possessor, being far outbalanced by the evils 1 attending it. • ^ ' , With a view of correcting this vice, a number of citizens attempt- I ed to establish a public library ; but it not succeeding, they have iubicribed to build a theatre, in order to form an amusement for the ladies; presuming, I think, very correctly, that a number of the most virtuous of the gentlemen will be found in the ladies* company. A seminary has been erected for the instruction of young ladicis wid another for young men. H K WBk i ^S^BBt 1 tj^B J^^H| H 400 TKAVEI^ IM The country round Frankfort i* rough and hilly, and one can hardly visit tli« place without expressing surprise how the citizcnt made choice of it for the seat of government, when there arc go many situations, fur more eligible and more central, in the stnte. September 24. My former travelling companion, cnptuin Bull, having come forward, we travelled together to Versailles, 13 mik» from Frankfort. The country for six miles is rough and stony, but there are some small tracts of good land in it. At the end of six miles we came to a very fine spring of pure water, issuing from the limestone rock. Beyond this the soil is very fine all the way to Versailles, which is situated in the midst of a charming country. Versaillc>8 is handsomely laid out, and contains 488 inhabitants. Several brick buildings were erecting, and the town appeared to be in a thriving state. There is a pretty good court-house in the town, and Woodford academy being situated in it, affords a good opportunity for the education of youth. The lands in the neighbourhood are exceedingly beautiful, and well cultivated ; the price of land round the town is from 10 to 20 dollars per acre. I'rovisions of every kind are very chq). The country here is generally healthy, but there has been a little sickness this season, owing to the great heat, this liaving been the hottest summer lu the remembrance of the oldest inhabi- tants. I left Versailles at 2 o'clock, and had a ino.Ht agreeable ride of 13 miles to Lexington. The country was really beautiful, and tlie improvements, which have been nearly all made within 20 years, present a most pleasing picture of the progress of society. There are finely cultivated fields, rich gardens, and elegant mansions, principally of brick, all the way. Land in the natural state is easily cleared, for, notwithstanding the richness of the soil, tliej timber is mostly small and thin ; and there are few situations ioj wliich the price of wood will not pay for the clearing. 1 was pretty well prepared, by the previous information, fori the view of Lexington, but it did exceed my expectations. Tbe| scite of the town is agreeably uneven, with sufficient slopes to carrjf| off the water. The streets are wide and airy, crossing one anothfl at right angles ; and the buildings, being mostly all of brick, whole is as handsome, as far as it extends, as Philadelphia; an the country round is much handsomer than that round the latu ICtNTOCKY. 401 city. As I pasted along the streets I observed the people nil busy, having a {.'low of heiJth, and an aiiiniation in their faces, indica- tive of a healthy climate, and a plentiful country. I lodged nt Postlethwaite's tiivifn. .. » ■ CHAPTER LXXIX. Lexingtan. 1 FOUND myself at first in u singular dilemma here. I had resulved, at setting out, to pay particular attention to Lexington, tnd yet it so happened that 1 had not a letter of introduction to a penon in the place, except to one gentleman, and he was from borne. I had got very particular letters of introduction to gentle- men in Pittsburg and Louisville, who were well acquainted in Lexington; and it was expected that I could liave been furnishtd with letters from Iwth, but neither of them were at home, and I was thus disapointed. ' ' ' Luckily, however, there were a number of Georgians in the town, and I fell in with an old acquaintance from Savannah. He introduced me to Mr. Jordan, the postmaster, and to this gentle- man's kind attention I was much indebted, in every respect ; but partKularly for assisting me in procuring the information that I was more immediately in quest of. In the morning we went to the market, which was as well sup- plied with provisions as that of Philadelphia, and the prices very reasonable. A few of them may be quoted : flour 2 dollars per cwt. meal 40 cents; potatoes 25 per bushel, turnips 16, benn^ 12^ per peck, onions 6^, beef 3 per pound, mutton 83 per side, veal 1 1 dollar per side, bacon from 6 to 8 cents per pound, venison 25 per ham, fowls from 12^ to 16 per pair, ducks 25 to 33 per pair, geese S3 each, turkeys from 25 to 50, cheese 12^ per pound, but« ter 12i, eggs 6^ per dozen. From the market we went through several rope-walks, where Iwefound a number of black fellows busily employed; and from Ithence we went to see a cotton-bagging manufactory belonging to la Mr. Brand, from Dundee. Here we found a thriving establish- ment. Two men were at work dressing the hemp ; some boy:; here spinning; and a number of men and boys were busy weaving. 51 .( ■■■> mt ii'ii |:r,H 402 TRAVELS IM The number of hands was 23, all under the direction of an ovfr seer ; every thing was going on like clock-work. Mr. Brand in- formed us that they produced 120 yards of bagging per day, at 33' cents per yard, and the price of the hemp was 4 dollars per cwt. In the evening we had a party at Mr. Brand's, and 1 was very much pleased with the attention so unexpectedly shown me. We went in a body to the theatre. The performers acted very well, but there was a deficiency of actresses, and one of the men had to play a female character, which did not suit my taste at all. This company are to play here, at Frankfort, and at Louisville. Through the medium of Mr. Jordan and Mr. Brand, I was in- troduced to many others ; and soon became as familiar with Lex- ington as I was with New York ; but, as I must condense my ob- servations, thri remaining information will be found in the fol- lowing general account. I^ExiNGTON is the seat of justice of Fayette county, and is situ- ated in the heart of a most beautiful country, on a branch of Elk- horn river. It is one of the earliest settlements in the western country, and is coeval with the battle of Lexington, the news of I which having reached the early settlers, they conferred on it the present name. It has since flourished in a wonderful degree, and now contains 4327 inhabitants. By the census of 1800, it contain* ed 2400, so that it has nearly doubled its population in 10 yean; and as it is progressing in manufactures and wealth, and the ad- joining country rapidly settling up, there is every probability that it will increase in the same ratio for a considerable time to come. Lexington has a very neat court-house, market-house, jail, four churches, and a bank. There is a very excellent semi- nary of learning, under the management of special trustees, whicb I is supported by about 70,000 acres of land ; and there is a public library, a valuable establishment, with a youth's library attached to it. Three newspapers are published in the town, and papers are received by mail IVom all quarters of the union. There are| a numl)er of valuable manufactories; and a steam-mill was recent- ly J. .it io motion, which is of great advantage to the town and neighbourhood. There are four principal taverns, all under good | management, and there are about 30 retail stores, and two book- stores. .,Vv 4 ..,■ i- The principal manulhctures of Lexington are of hemp, to whidi the labour of the black people is well adapted, and of which tlie KENTUCKY. 403 country yields amazing crops, at the low price of 4 dollars per cfft.; being at the rateof jfil8 sterling per ton. There are 13 txtensire rope-walks, five bagging manufactories, and one of duck, Tlie manufactures of hemp alone are estimated at 500,000 dollars. The other principal manufactories are eight cotton factories, three ffoolicn manufactories, and an oil-cloth factory. The other pro- fessions are, masons and stone-cutters, brick-makers, carpenters, cabinet-makers, coopers, turners, machine-makers, smiths, nailers, copper and tin-smith^/, brass-founders, gim-smiths, silvcr-&miths, watch-makers, tanners, curriers, saddlers, boot and shoe-makers, butchers, bakers, brewers, distillers, stocking-makers, dyers, tavlors, tobacconists, soap-boilers, candle-makers, brush-makers, potters, painters, confectioners, glovers and breeches-makers, straw-bonnet-makers, and batters. As this place is rapidly in- creasing, manufactures are so of course ; workmen are mostly al- ways in demand, the more so as industrious journeymen very soon become masters. The following branches could be established, or increased ; frame smith-work, connected with the manufactory of stockings, upholstery, chaise and chair-making, piano-fortes. And the fol- lowing branches are susceptible of augmentation to a great extent: cotton, woollen, and hemp. The materials for these arc to be procured on the spot. Hemp has been noticed; sheep, both common and merino, thrive remarkably well ; and cotton of an ex- cellent quality is brought over land from Tennessee at 2^ to 3 cents per pound. Journeymen mechanics are scarce ; they can earn from 1 to 1 dollar 50 cents per day, and be boarded for 1 dollar 50 cents to 2 dollars per week. Lexington is a general market : the principal articles for export, and the prices when I was there, were as follows : wheat 50 cents per bushel, rye 40, oats 16, barley 30, whiskey 25 ts 33 per gal- lon, peach-brandy 33 to 40, cyder 4 dollars per barrel, beer 8 dollars, salt 1 dollar 25 cents per bushel, hemp 3 dollars 50 cents to 5 dollars per cwt., tobacco 1 dollar 50 cents to 2 dollars, good borses 50 to 100 dollars each, cows 12 to 20 dollars, sheep 1 dol- lar 50 cents, negroes (a black trade,) from 14 to 30 years of age, 350 to 400 dollars, cordage 8 to 10 cents per pound, town lots, 66 feet in front, and 219 deep, frrom 2000 to 3000 dollars, fire- wood 1 dollar per load; houses (containing four good rooms) 100 404 KENTUCKY. to 200 dollars per annum; houses for mechanics 30 to 50 dollars; but that class have mostly houses of their own. The state ol society is much improved in Lexington. Educa- tion is well attended to, and there are pretty good schools. Perhap* the church is not on a footing with the sentiments of the people, which are very liberal on the subject of religion. They are po- lite and affable in their manners, and are hospitable in a high de- gree. They are high-spirited, independent, and republican in their sentiments ; and, as might be expected from a people sprung from Virginia, they are warm admirers of Mr. Jefferson, whose inaugural speech I saw elegantly printed on white silk, and hung up in the hall of Mr. Postlethwaite's tavern. The police of the town is supported by the rent of the market and public grounds, and by a property tax of from 12 to 20 cents per 100 dollars. It is under the management of 13 trustees and a president, whose power extends one mile round the centre of the town. The streets are nearly all paved, and this important object fur the comfort of the town will soon be entirely accomplished, as two-thirds of the inhabitants can compel the remaining third to agree to it. I have already noticed that the country round Lexington is re* roarkably fertile and well cultivated. This desirable tract extends nearly 20 miles round the town, and is capable of maintaining nearly half a million of inhabitants ; so that it will probably be- come very populous. It is the most beautiful tract of land I ever saw. The prices may be quoted as follows : land in the immediate neighbourhood of Lexington 200 dollars per acre; from thence to the distance of one mile, 180 dollars; to one mile and a half, 100; to two miles, 50; to two and a half miles, 30; to three miles, 25; to four miles, 20; to eight, from 20 dollars to 12. Very little good land is now to be had under 1 2 dollars per acre. I was introduced to one of the early settlers, who told me he saw the first tree cut down here, antl has noticed the progress of the place ever since. He observed that the climate was very dif- tereot from that beyond the mountains. Heat and cold did not go to extremes, the thermometer in summer seldom being above 80°, or in winter below 25° ; for six months in the year it ranges about 56° : July and August are the warmest months. There has been more sultry days this sunimer than he has ever seen. An English gentleman, who has been settled here for some time, toW TENNESSEE. 405 me emphatically, tliat the western country had an English climate^ but being a few degrees farther to the south than England, it was upon the whole a few degrees warmer, which was ko much in fiiTour of the country. CHAPTER LXXX. Tennessee, This beli^ the southern extremity of my journey, I shall, be- tbre leaving Lexington, devote a chapter to the state of TENNESSEE. • This state is situated between 35° and 56° 30' north latitude. «nd 1° 33' and 13° 23' west longitude. It is 420 miles long and 104 broad; containing an areuof 43,200 squaremiles,or27,648,000 acres. The state of Tennessee is marked by bold features. It is washed by the Mississippi on the west, and the fine rivers Tennessee and Cumberland pass through it by very serpentine courses. The western part is mostly level , the middle, like Kentucky, hilly but not mountainous ; the eastern po^t, known by the name of East Tennessee, is wholly among the mountains. These mountains are a continuation of the ridges which pass through the northern states, and are said to be very beautiful ; the country among them forming the most delightful residence of any in the state, in con- sequence of which it is rapidly settling. Besides the principal rivers already alluded to, there are a great number of lesser rivers and small streams, but they are all tributary to the Tennessee and Cumberland, except a few of no great length that run into the Mis- sissippi. None of the waters in this state run to the eastward, but tbe bead waters of the Tennessee interlock with the rivers of Geor- pa, which determines the boundary between those states and North Carolina to be the highest land in this part of the United States. Iron ore is found in abundance in this itate, and a considerable part of the country is, like Kentucky, bedded on limestone. Cop. pcras, ulum, nitre, lead, and some silver have been found ; and pit-coal is supposed to be plenty through the state, but, owing to the quantity of wood, it is not much sought for. Salt- petre is an article of commerce, and there arc several salt-springt It!'" 4 Pirn 406 TKNNESSEF. which supply the state with that necessary article. Some other mineral springs have been discovered. The soil is diiFerent in different parts of the country. In East Tennessee the land is good along the banks of the river, and in the valleys ; the mountains are poor in soil, but th ?y afford (rood pasture for sheep and cattle. In the middle part, the soil is pretty similar to that in Kentucky, and the low lands in the western parts are composed of a rich black vegetable earth. The climate in East Tennessee, among the mountains, is de- lightful. The heats of summer are so tempered by the mountain air, that in point of climate this is among the most desirable resi- deuces in all the United States. The middle part has a climate very similar to Kentucky, but, being farther to the south, it is warmer, and more congenial to the culture of cotton, and other articles raised in the southern states. The western part being low, the air in summer is hot and moist, and the people are a good deal subject to fever and ague, and bilious fever, during the fall. Tennessee originally belonged to the state of North Carolina, and began to settle in 1 765. In 1 7K9 the territory was cedeu oy that state^to the United States ; and in 1796 itwas admitted into the union, and a state constitution was adopted. It sends two senators and three representatives to congress ; but, in consequence of the increase of population, the number of representatives will now be considerably increased. This state is divided into East and West Tennessee. East Tennes> see is only about one-fourth of the state, and is subdivided into 17 counties, containing 101,367 inhabitants, of whom 9,376 areslares. West Tennessee is subdivided into 21 counties, containing 160,360 inhabitants, of whom 35,1 59 are slaves; in all 261,727, being near- ly six to the square mile. The principal towns are K!,-oxville, in East Tennessee, and Kasliville, in West Tennesse. Knoxville is the seat of govern- ment, and contains about 1000 iuhabitants. Nashville is situated on the Cumberland river, and is a place of considerable commerce particularly in dry goods, groceries, and cotton. There are a con- siderable number of smaller towns, but they are of no great impor- tance. , . ^ , . ..J ■ - : . < .. , ■■ .,, . The great business of the state is agriculture. Cotton forms a sort of staple commodity, particularly in the western part of the state. The other products are the same as in Kentucky. TENNESSEE. 407 The whole of the people throughout the state are clothed in do- mestic manufactures, which have been encouraged by premiums from the legislature. I have not heard of any cotton manufacto- ries upon a large scale, but the subject will doubtless be attended to, as the cotton here is of a very superior quality, and being far from a market, it would be attended with great benefit to the state to fabricate it into different sorts of goods, by machinery. The principal exports in West Tennessee are by the Mississippi to New Orleans, and consist of cotton, tobacco, flour, &c From the east- ern part they carry considerable quantities of cattle to the Atlantic ports. . ■ - ■ • •-..,- ^. Tennessee being principally settled from the Carolinas, Virginia, and Georgia, with a considerable number of New Englanders and foreigners, the state of society is much diversified. They are im- proving in civilization. Education is pretty generally attended to ; and there is little doubt but this will become a very interesting state. The people of this state having the example of the confusion which took place in Kentucky, ubout land titles, , before their eyes, adopt- ed a plan to prevent all difficulties on this subject, and it has been of great advantage to the state, as it has held out an inducement to many of the emigrants to pass over Kentucky and settle in it ; but, «s the land laws in Kentucky will soon assume a secure form, this advantage will not be of long duration, and the principal increase of population hereafter is to be looked for from the Carolinas and Georgia. The genius of the people in the new states, may be gathered in part from a perusal of their state constitutions. Having nothing to dog their intellect on the subject of government, which is the most important of all earthly concerns, it may be fairly presumed that the constitution will embrace the sentiments of a considerable majority of the people. . ^ , > The constitution of this state declares, that all power is in- herent in the people — that all men have a right to worship God according to the dictates of their consciences, and that no prefer- ence shall ever be given by law to any religious establishment — that elections shall be free and equal ; — and that the trial by jury 'hall remain inviolate. The government is legislative, executive, and judicial.— The le- ure consists of representatives and senators, who are chosm years, and must be possessed of 200 acres of land in the Ifor two 5'"'f m" M 408 THAVELS IN county for which they are chosen. The governor must be possess- ed of 500 acres of land, and is also elected for two years. All free males of 21 years of age, who pay taxes, have a vote. The judj. ciftry in vested in such superior and inferior courts as the legi»lature may appoint ; the judges are appointed by the legislature, and hold their offices during good behaviour. CHAPTER LXXXI. Leave Ijcxington — Paris — Bltte Lick — Washington — Limestone. JjLAVING finished my inquiries at Lexington, I intimated to my friends that I must depart. I was urged to stay a few days longer, in order to be introduced to some of the leading men of the place; but I had a long journey to perform, the season was advancing, and every hour was precious. Finding me deaf to their hospi- table entreaties, a few of them told me they would accompany me as far as Paris, 22 miles distant. " Up higher yet, my bon- net," thinks I to myself; " this is really a contrast to the situation I was in the first evening [ reached Lexington." We got all ready, and set out on horseback, five in number, on the 29th of September, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. The weather was clear and beautiful. The thermometer stood at 58'. A fine road leads from Lexington, and the lands and houses are similar to those posite of Mr. Ashe : The state o4' Kentucky will in- crease, and rapidly improve. — We shall see ten years hence which 1 is most correct. -^ i. vt 1 r. iiiri ; ■ ,;( / ; ^ October 1 st. I could not get away from my friendly host till I past \ o'clock. The ground after leaving the salt lick is almost a perfect barren, and bare of trees : a circumstance occasioned, it is supposed, by the treading of the birflaloos going to drink the si •water. Seven miles from the spring I passed a good tavern, on* I creek, where there is a mill ; and here the land improve?, amitlie improvements increase towards Washington, where I called on Mr. John Macker, another Scotsman, and he hospitably detained me I 'all night. > Mr. Macker, being in the land business, gave me a groat deal ofl information } Ivut it is princijially anticipated by what 1 have alrea- dy stated. He was well ac(]uainted with the land laws, and gavel me a particular account of the difficulty tliat had arisen iu laiidti- KEKltJCKT. 411 lies; but ns all these arc in a fair way of being obviated, it is un- necessary to submit them here in detail. Washinrrton h the capital of Mason county, (\nd is situated 4 miles Irom the Ohio river, in a high and rich country; but so deplorably defective in water, tlmt they h«ve Hometimce to carry it on carts from the Ohio. It consists principally of one wide street, and the hous- es, which are mostly built of brick, are handsome. It contains 815 inhabitants, who are industrious and enterprising, a great propor- tion of them being employed in agricuhnre. The public buildings ure, a court-house, jail, and academy. There arc several mauu* factories of hemp. The lands round Washington are good, and well cultivated. The whole of Mason county, indeed, is good soil ; but it is more hilly than about Lexington, though the soil is qually rich and fertile. Land in the neighbourhood of the town, nnder cultivation, sells at ftom 10 to 15 dollars per acre. Through the country, uncleared lands average about 6 dollars. The town lots sell for about 100 dollars each, and the out-lots at ♦0 dollars per acre. October 2d. The morning being very pleasant, I started at 6 o'dock, and journeyed on to Limestone, 4- miles distant. The soil is very good all the way, and the country Iwing elevated, af- fords many fine views. It has been noticed, that the Ohio river runs in a deep valley. On approaching it, I had a delightful view of this beautiful stream, which I never could behold without pleasing sensations. From the brow of the hill I descended about 300 feet, when 1 reached Limestone. I stopped here some little time, during which I saw a gentleman from New York bound to New Orleans, by whom I sent a letter to my friend Mr. Kennedy; and, meeting with a countryman from Kentucky bound to Chillicothe, we agreed to travel together. But before we proceed on our joufney, I shall take a review of the large and very important state of Kentucky. ' • . ' rivi ^. i;^,-s ■I, m> ■ F ■■ ■ ^- ' ■'■■ *"? '^ y.. CHAPTER LXXXIL \^ Kentucki/. ■ ' • . ^- - Is situated between 36° 30' and 39'' north latitude, and H^ and 12" west longitude. Its greatest length is 328 miles, ^nd its 412 KINTUCKY. or greatest brendth 183. Its area is 4<0,110 square miles, 25,670,4-00 acres. The face of the country is generally uneven, some of it rough and hilly ; and towards the east there are considerable spurs of the Allegany Mountains, which divide the state from Virginia. The Ohio river washes the state to the north and north-west, 874. miles- and the Mississippi on the west 57 ; the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers pass partly through it. Big Sandy river forms the boundary line a ccmniderable way on the east ; and Licking river, Kentucky river. Hulling river, and Green river are all very considerable streams. There is a vast variety of small streams, and the state has the appearance of being well watered ; but in some places it is not. The stratum under the soil is limestone, throughout the 'whole state ; it has a great depth, and seems to be checquered with innumerable fissures, which let the water pass. On this account, there are some places where water is not to be found in summer, and the greater part of the rivers have worn down their beds from 100 to 300 feet below the surface of the earth. From the circum- stance of the rivers being so confined between high banks, they roll down their waters to a great depth in freshets ; it is no uncommon thing for the Kentucky river to rise from 4-0 to SO feet- The state is said to be rather defective in iron, the most useful of all the metals : but there are, notwithstanding, numerous iron forges. Marble is found in the state, but is not plenty : coal is found in some places ; and a few specimens of lead, copperas, and alum have been found ; limestone is a most plentiful commodity. There are various mineral springs, but the most useful are the salt springs ; though they are now of less importance, since the dis- covery of the valuable salt-springs upon the Kanhaway. The soil in this state has aH the gradations from the very best to the very worst, but there is, upon the whole, a great body of good soil in the state. That part of it about Lexington has been already noticed ; and the notice of the climate there will also con- vey an idea of it for the whole central part of the state. Towards the south and west it becomes more warm, to the north and east more cold ; the climate is, upon the whole, very agreeable. Virginia once extended to the Ohio and Mississippi, and the territory of Kentucky then formed a part of that state. It was, however, unknown until 1 754-, when it was first explored by James M*Bride. In 1769, colonel Boone made further discoveries, and KENTUCKY. 413 in 1773 the first permanent settlement was made by lilm and some others. In 1775 the Indian claim was purchased by treaty; in 1790 Kentucky was, with consent of Virginia, formed into a sepa- rate state, and adopted a state constitution, which was revised and amended in 1799. The state was admitted into the union in 1792, and sends two senators and six representatives to congress ; the Jattcr will now be nearly doubled, in consequence of the increase of population. The state is divided into 54- counties, and contains, by last census, 406,511 inhabitants, of whom 80,561 are slaves, and ni3 are free persons of colour. In 1800, the population was 220,955, of whom 40,34-3 were slaves. The inhabitants have thus nearly doubled in 10 years, and now amount to about 11 per square mile. As the emigrations are still going on, and likely to continue, particularly from the southern states, the inhabitants will yet greatly increase, though probably not so rapidly as heretofore. The insecurity of the land-titles, and the ilave-trade, are so many barriers in the way with the people from the northern states, from whence there is the greatest degree of emigration ; and there being so much fine land to the westward, a number of the poorer people will go there, where they can get land cheap. However, it is to be presumed that this latter cir- cumstance will have a tendency to improve the morals of the state, as it will purge it of many of the pioneers. The improvements in this state bear testimony to the industry of the inhabitants, and to the value of the institutions under which they thrive. Besides those towns that have been already noticed, there are seven containing 400 inhabitants and upwards; viz, Beardstown, 821 ; Winchester, 538 ; Russelville, 532 ; George- town, 529; Versailles, 488; Danville, 432; Newport, 413: there are 10 containing from 200 to 400 ; and 13 containing from 100 to 200. From a slight review of the state, I would be inclined to value the accumulated property at 150 millions of dollars, and, if that estimate be nearly correct, it shows that this people have not been idle during the last 30 years. This is exclusive of the negroes. Some calculators would value them at 25 millions, but I do Dot like to put a value on human flesh; and, indeed, it is my opinion, that society, as Teague says, " gains a loss by them,** in which case, they are of no value at all. Agriculture has made rapid progress in the state. The princi- ^'^ KKSTUCKV. pal pnxlucts hnve l)ocn noticed, so u'so have llio mnnufiuiiirf* fliK J commerce; ft now only remnins to sfatc the outlines of th* constitution, nnil to say ft lew words on the state of society. The {government consists of three parts ; legislative, executive, nnd juiliciury. The legislnture consists of a house of reprcscntii. tives, tiic members of which are chosen annually; and a seiintc, of which the membcr.H arc elected tor four years, one-fourth bciiir chosen every year. Every free male al)ovc 21 years of ago has a vote for the representatives, and also for the governor, whoise- lected for four years, and is ineligible to fill that oflico for seven years thereafter. The judiciary is vested in a supreme court, nnd such inferior courts as may be appointed by law, and the judges hold their offices during good l)ehaviour. The constitution Ac- clares, among others, the following fundamental principles; all power is inherent in the people; all men have a right to worship God acco-'Ting to the dictates of their own consciences ; all dec- ti(ms shall be free and equal ; trial by jury ihall be held sacml ; printing presses shall be free. ' ' ' * Socrcty acting under these principles must improve, but there lias been certain checks upon the civilization of Kentucky, which have no doubt retarded its progress ; and a number of the blem- ishes have been laid hold of by prejudiced foreigners, to misrepre- sent the people, forgetting that the blemishes they dwell on, are the exceptions, not the rule. I also saw some of these ex- ceptions, and I heard of many. In the tavern where we lodged at Louisville, a room was appropriated to a gaming table, which tvas kept going night and day, w ithout intermission ; and the gen- try who occupied it spoke as if they had been obliged to depose j evcsry word upon oath. 1 was induced to look into it, on the suggestion of ray travelling companion, but I could not stand the scene a minute, for it became immediately associated in my mind ■with the horrible idea I had formed of hell, when I was at school iThe oaths and imprecations of the company reminded me of the words attributed to the damned in the catechism — " they would roar, curse, and blaspheme;'* and the fumes of tobacco, withj which they were enveloped, wanted only a sprinkling of brim- stone to bear a very lively resemblance to " the smoke of their I torment ascending up for ever and ever." At Frankfort I saw a ■vagabond in the penitentiary, who had picked out his neigliboursi eyes; an^ a man who sailed down the river with us, told me he KKNlUCkY. 415 c blem- lisrcprc- ^vell on, lesc ex- lodged which the gen* depose on tk ;and the ly mind school of the would :o, wilh ,f brim- if their 11 saw a fhbour's nielie iiwa fight in which the combntanta grupplcd oiic another ^vitk ihcir U'cth : one lost n Up, and the other his nose. These nrc ill sail doings, to he sure ; but let it be remembered that they irre onliloiie every day by trnnwiclions in the cnpitui of a nation, who think themselves the moit polished on caiih, nnil some of these even supported and cnoouragcd by the " t'oriiithian cajntala of ^wlishfd society." ■ In Kentucky, and indeed in the western country gcncralK', tiicrc a vast majority of civil, discreet, well -disposed people, who will hold the lawless and disobedient in civeck, and in time cor- rect the morals of the whole. Slavery is no doubt hurtlid to so- cictV) hut it is probably more ameliorated in tiiis 8taie than in Hiiv other part of the world. Indeed ko much is this the case, that the blacks are j^enerally as well fed nntl nearly as well clothed in the white people; and it is (piestionable whether they work «> liard. A gentleman of very excellent information told nie that Jie didjwt think the produce of their labour was ecpial to their main- tenance. To mo it appeared that they were better fud, better lodged, and better clothed, than many of the peasantry in Britain. Still, however, slavery, under any amelioration, is a bitter draught, and though thousands in all ages have been made to drink of it, it is no less bitter on that account. " 'Tis thou, thrice b-.v et and gracious Liberty, whom all in public or private worship, whose taste is grateful, and ever will be so, till Nature herself •hall change — no tint of words can spot thy snowy mantle, or cho mic power turn thy sceptre into iron with thee to smile upon him as he eats his crust, the swain is happier than his monarch, from whose court thou art exiled. Gracious Heaven ! give nie but health, thou great Ikstower of it, and give me but this f;iir fioddess as my companion — and shower down thy mitres, if it seems good unto thy divine providence, upon those heads which [are aching for them." Sterne. The insecurity of land titles have also been much against tlie htiite, not only by preventing emigrants of property from going jto it, but also by encouraging litigation, a most baneful circuni- Ittance in any country ; but it is to be remarked that the legisia- jture have lately taken measures to place this business on a solid land respectable form. By a late act all claims to land are onler- jedtobe produced and put upon record in the respective eonntic?-,; had none will be admitted that are not produced within five yeara 416 TBAVELS IN after passing the act. Where it is found that there are two or more claims to the same lands, the matter will be referred to coni« misioncrs, to be appointed by the legislature. In the mean time all transfers of property are recorded in the county books, which will continue to be the case hereafter, and prevent all confusion. Being sprung from the state of Virginia, the manners of that people have given the tone to those of this state, which appears in a spirit of high independence, quick temper, and frank gene- rosity. The only serious evil that I had to complain of in my jour* ney through the country arose from the proneness of many of the natives to swearing. This vice is too common, and though 'tis true that " it will neither break a man's leg, nor pick his pocket," yet it may stun his ears most unmercifully. This was literally the case with me ; I found the country as bad, in that respect, as Ireland itselfl Indeed it appears to me that there is a considcra^ ble similitude between the Irish people and the Virginians, in j more respects than this : frank, affable, polite, and hospitable in j a high degree, they are quick in their temper, sudden in their re- sentment, and warm in all their affections. ■ ,1..! :' '*■•„ ''V'- CHAPTER LXXXIII. , Cross the Ohio, — West Union, — Bainbridge, — Chillicothe. By the time I was ready to leave Limestone, it was 12 o'clock' and it was now warm and delightful. On reaching the river side, I perceived that the water had risen about three feet since I pass-l cd this place before ; and from the motion of a skiff in the middlel of the stream, 1 judged that the current was now about two milesl an hour. We crossed by a flat. The river was beautiful, andj was enlivened by a great number of boats and skiffs. HavinT reached the Oliio side, we perceived that the state roadi rose abruptly up a steep hill, and were informed that another roadI to the left wound round the hill, through a pleasant valley. >Vc| took it. The scenery here was bold and rich, the hills on eaclil side being about 200 feet high^ covered by a rich vegetable mould and clad with a profusion of timber, consisting chiefly of oak,| walnut, chesnut, sugar maple, ciifciry, honey locust, &c. Two miles from the river we passed a countryman with a lead rimv of the VOUITTKY round the FALL.S of :XIAGARA \0 Irs*] t.> Uf^ Mm**^*^' Chipp'^^'V pOTtE /i/CJRf f>;/i /i: -i' of cyder, of whi He told lis he v country remarkal I found my tni a wallet over bis and horse; but ^Y-v ^M meet with a dist cheap rate. "We quire^ but there v however, that we our course throug £stillery, we halt the bottle from his peach brandy in was much better t a little when we p being a litt' ' ove* water, and Q- a us, her fauii , v - try remarkably wc a kvf years befor planted from the si paid the landlady i on through a fine f a beautiful stream, proposed we shouh interest in any of which I had paid tl passively agreed. ^ I gave it water at th emptied the one eu* the grass, to the h he drew forth from I cheese, and biscuit, him, and made a V( smiling around us ; heads; the pure wa h^side; and the OHIO. 417 of cyder, of which we partook, and found the quality excellent. He told lis he was from the state of New York, and liked this country remarkably well, chiefly on account of the mild winters. I found my travelling companion was an economist. He had a wallet over his saddle, in which he carried provender for man and horse; but he told me his bottle was dry, and wished to meet with a distillery, where he might get it replenished at a cheap rate. We passed a peach orchard, and he stopped to in- quire, but there was no distillery, there. The people informed us, however, that we would find one a mile further on. We pursued our course through a beautiful romantic valley, and, reaching the distillery, we halted, and went into the house. My friend drew the bottle from his wallet, and told the landlady to put a quart of peach brandy in it. While she was gone, he observed thai this was much better than to drink it in the house, as we could take a little when we pleased, and paid only half price for it There being a litt' - over ofter filling the bottle, we drank it diluted with water, and ^V a the quality excellent. The landlady informed us, her faui; / > r^e from Pennsylvania, and they liked this coun- try remarkably well. Their peach-orchard had been planted only a few years before, and was in a floqrishing state. Peach-trees planted from the stone come to maturity in three years. Having paid the landlady a quarter of a dollar for the brandy, we moved on through a fine fertile country, and, passing near Eagle creek, a beautiful stream, we came to a fine spring, where my friend proposed we should halt and take sorhe refreshment I had no interest in any of the provisions, except tiie peach-brandy, of which I had paid the half; but I was inclined to be sociable, and passively agreed. My friend alighted, stripped his horse, and gave it water at the spring. I followed his example. He then emptied the one end of the wallet of its contents, being oats, upon the grass, to the horses ; and sitting down on the grass himsclt| he drew forth from the other end a piece of bacon, some bread, cheese, and biscuit, and inviting me to partake, I sat down beside him, and made a very pleasant repast. The face of nature was smiling around us ; the lofty trees spread their branches over our heads; the pure water issued from the fountain* and gurgled b^ our side; and the feathered choristers delighted our ears with *^ if Sr--' 418 TRAVF.I.S IM their song, and our eyes with their beautiful plumage. I was charmed with this new country.* * Soon after my return to New York, I was informing a Scottish friend there ef some of my adventures in the western country. His attention was arrested hj the tyme of EaglC'Cree/c, which, he told me, was the place he intended to go on first land- ing in the country. He then put into my hands a letter from a Scotsman, settled in the western country, to a number of his countrymen, which contains so many s«nsib!t remarks, that I am tempted to insert it here, verbatim et literotim:— Lexington, November 4, 1805, Dear Friends and CouKTiivMEif, I received yours of the 6th of July ; and what follows will, I hope, be a satisfac- tory answer to all your queries. The general price of land here^ at its first settlement, 16 from two to three dollars. Land sold by congress is two dollars, to be paid in five years. The manner of clearing is to cut down all the timber below a foot thick, sod to notch the heavy timber all round : thus the growth is stopped, and the land being every year laboured, the roots gradually die, and are torn out ; so that, in a few yean, ike whole field is cleared. Unless what is used in fencing, and building, and fuel, and such purposes, all the wood is l)urnt upon the ground. In the most of places, wood is no more tlioiight of than heath and rushes are with you. Two men, who are ordi- narily expert at hewing wood, can easily, in two months, clear as much land u will produce food suflicient for the support of a family of six or eight for a whole year. It is usual for those whe bring families to settle, to rent a house and a piece of clear land for a year or so, till they have time to look about them, make a convenient purchase, and get a house of their oVvn raised, l^e first houses which are built upon a plantation are usually raised in little more than a week or two. They are, indeed, not very ele- gant, but they do very well for a year or so, till the family has time to build a better^ The people are every ^herc exceedingly kind and obliging to new comers, and rendu them all the comfort and assistance in theiiTpower ; they have all oncie known, in th«ir own case, what it is to be strangers. There are at no times any thing like a market for produce, such as that in the old country, but there is always some little market, Gometimes better, and sometimes worse. The situation of society, however, is such, that very little casli is needed. Every lamily who has the least industry may, after the second or third year, easily raise within itself almost every thing that is necessary^ Salt and Iron, and the taxes of government, which are by no means heavy, are almost the only things for which men need to give money. Men's persons and properties vt here as safe as in any part of the world ; while liberty, civil aind religious, is fully en- joyed; Liw and justice arc strictly and impartially executed. Snakes, and such like, are I here no more dangeroua than in Carnwathmuir. In all my wanderings I h"c ^"^ seen above half a dozen snakes, nor met with many more who have been bit by thenL- When any are bit by them, they have always a simple and efficacious cure at hani— Indians, where they are t«> be seen, are equally harmless. Unless it is along some of the large rivers, where the people are^ at certain seasons, liable to the fever and ague, the country is every where healthy ; the people in general live as long, and are sulqect t« as few diseases as they are in Scotland. The wcatlier, in the summer, is coP'iderabl; hotter than it is at home ; but neither I, nor my partner, have found it the least dis- j agreeable. "We have only worn our clothes a little lighter, and have kept in the house. «r the shade, a few hours while it was hottest. To be out in the evenings and mornin|s I omo. 419 Having finished our repast, we resumed our journey, and tra^ TcUed through a rich soil to West Union, 17 miles from the u most delightful. A brewer or a smith along with you will be a valuable acquisition. Eacb of these branches can be carriecT on with considerable profit I could fill sheets in prtise of the country, but there is nothing like fact. I am acquainted with hundred) wbo came here within these twenty years, with nothing more than a sound constitution, ind ui industrious disposition, who have raised large families, and are now living in eueaod affluence. I would recoipmend unto you to come and settle upon Eaulb ciiK, Adams county, State of Ohio, al>out 100 miles nearer you than Lexington. In that quarter there is plenty of good vacant land. The length of the journey there is from Philadelphia or Baltimore to Pittsburg 30U miles; then aboat as much |iy water down the river Ohio. In preparing fur such a long journey, dispose of every tliiDg you have, except your body and bed-clothes. The latter end of July, or the bfginning of August, is the best time to set sail. If the war contiiiuci, take an American bottom. It makes very little matter whether you sail for Baltimore or Phi« yelphia. If you cannot find a convenient passage for one of these, Newcastle, or Wilmington, or some other place upon the Delaware river, is the next best sliift. In packing up your clothes, it will be much to your advantage to have them put into as light trunks, or chests, as possible, and to pack them very hard. Make your agreement mth the captain, that you furnish your own provisions, water excepted ; and see that a nfficient stock of water is laid in, and that it bo put into well-seasoned vessels. When you have got about half way, it is likely that the seamen, with consent of the captain, may set apart a few hours to make themselves merry, by working some antic tricks upon you. If they take this liberty, by no means resent, — take a laugh also ; they hurt no- body. Being arrived in Philadelphia, let it be your first thing to inquire for Scots- men : from them you will receive a great deal of useful information. If you land at Bahimore, ask for the Rev. Kol)crt Aiion. Our church at Pliiladelphja is 4t present Ticant; but there is a Mr. Miller, « mason, a Scotsman, who will be exceeding hnppy to aee you. I cannot tell you where he lives, but there is not a shopkeeper but has a printed list of all the principal inhabitants, lliere are waggons continually passing from these parts to Pittsburgh ; make the bo^t bargain you can witli one or more of these waggons to carry your women and children, and the men of you may travel on foot. Set off in company with one of these carriers' waggons. You will usually tra- vel twenty miles a- day. When you pas^ market- towns, purchase a little provisions for yourselves and horses. When you have advanced about 60 or 100 miles, the road will grow rougher, which will likely render it neces.sary to purchase one or two more horses. By this time you will have fallen in with other families in the same situation with your •• wires. You will find the people every where very freely disposed to ask every thing, and tell you every thing. The sooner you get into their manner, it will be the more tdrantage to you ; but be always upon your guard against knaves. You will find a great many difl91culties and inconveniencies ; but with a good spirit, and an indulgent Heaven, every thing becomes ea^y. Your expences will depend a great deal upon lit- tle incidents, which human eye cannot foresee ; but if, after you have discharged all your accounts about Greenock, you have the one-half remaining, I think you will hava > sufficiency ; and, upon the word of an honest man, I positively give it as my opinion, •lut, though you were to lay out every farthing of your money, if it brought you in kealth to your destination, you will be considerable <;ain«rs. I don't think it will suit '■?' ■'•('■ *iii ,1 ,;,,! Hfwli; Ufl'^i, 420 TRAVELS IN Ohio river, where we stopped all night, and had excellent ac* commodations. The scite of West Union was appropriated by the legislature of the state of Ohio, for the scat of justice for Adams county, and 110 acres of ground were purchased, at 8 dollars per acre. It was divided into streets, and lots of one third of an acre, and out lots of 2 acres ; with a reserve of 4 lots for the use of the public building*, and one on a spring of fine water for an academy. The lots were resold at from 6 to 78 dollars each ; the out-lots for about 40 dollars each. The whole realized S307 dollars, which, after defraying expenses, went into the county treasury. The town was laid out in 1804, and now consists of 32 dwelling- houses, and contains 224 inhabitants. The public buildings area court-house, meeting house, jail, and school. There are 3 taverns find 3 stores. The town is principally composed of mechania and their families, who are all doing well. Land in the neighbourhood is generally good, and is well water- ed, abounding in springs. This is on the Virginia military tract, which continues all the way to Chillicothe ; and in which land, in the unimproved state, sells for about 2 dollars per acre. The country is all perfectly healthy, no instance having occur- red of bilious fever, or fever and ague. Four great state roads cen- tre at this place, which are a great accommodation to the inhabi- tants. We were informed, that 5 acres of land in the neighbour- hood produced 21 waggon loads of grain, and that provisions were plenty and reasonable ; beef, of an excellent quality, being at 2 dollars 50 cents per cwt. Boarding in taverns is ^ dollars per week. The country abounds in springs of good water, iron ore, and free-stone. Sheep have increased, and there is a good supply of | wool, of which the inhabitants make a vaiiety of domestic manu- flicturcs. They also manufacture flax and cotton. October 3d. We set out on our journey at 6 o'clock ; but, mis- men in your situation to lay out any of your money in speculation, upon trading articles; but you nuiy consult with the merchants in Greenock. You must likewise observe to hare the money you bringinto America changed into dollars or gold coin. Take care and secure your liquor well, else the sailors will use it as a commvn stock. If any of you are skilllS ip music, & fiddle, or some such instrument, to raise the spirits, will be s valuable piece of furniture. Keep as much above deck as possible. I commend you all to the care of the God of Abraham, who went out not knowing whether ; and re* Biain, dear brethren, ROBERT HAMILTON BISHOP OHIO. ' 421 taking our road, we travelled several miles out of our way, when «c were put right by a countryman, who was taking his morning walk with a rifle in his hand. We found the country very rich ; the trees principally oak, walnut, poplar, and sugar -maple. Hoving regained the proper road, which we found a very good one, we travelled through a very beautiful country, to a branch of Brush creek, where the road forks.; that to the right hand winding op a pretty steep and high hill ; we took the left, and arrived to breakfast at the house of a family of ^^ name of Allen, from Ar- magh, Ireland. From thence we travelled through a good soil, six miles, the next eight being rather light and sandy, to the Sinking springs, so called from a large spring of pure water which rises and disappears several times, and finally issues from the brow of a hill. Here Mr. Heistant, a German, owns a fine farm, atid keeps a tavern, and my fellow-traveller purchased a quantity of oats for the horses, on which, like the peach-brandy, he made a saving of 50 per cent. Two miles from Heistant's we had dinner in the same style we had yesterday. I was quite pleased with the novelty of the thuig, and my taste and that of my companion were well suited to each other. I could eat no fat pork, and he liked the fat best ; so he ate all the fat and I got all the loan ; and having drank out of the pure fountain of water, at which we halted, we resumed our jour- ney. .. .... We had not travelled far when we were joined by a new settler of the name of Smith, from Virginia, who told us he was in quest of some stray cows. He was a young man, newly married, and had purchased a farm of 100 acres, for two dollars per acre, on an unlimited credit, but he had to pay interest after the second year. Being w out capital, he hires himself out part of his time, and clears a lititv, of his own property as he can get it overtaken. In this way, I have no doubt but he will be very comfortably situ- ated on his farm of 100 acres, in the course of a few years. After parting with Mr. Smith, we passed over a pretty high hill, from whence we had a rich view of great extent, but it was chec- quered by the trees, whicii detracted from the distinctness of vision, while it exhibited a greater variety. Having descended the hill, we passed through a fertile bottom, and reached Bainbridge, 38 miles from West Union, at dark, where we stopped all night. Bainbridge is quite a new town, consisting of 12 or 1^ houtioi :| h WW 'WJ 422 THAVELS IN only. The inhabitants are mostly from Pennsylvania, Kentucky, New England, and Ireland. Bottom land round this KelU for nine doUarit per acre { the high lands are from two to four doliun, October 4th, we set out at half past five o'clock, and having travelled a mile, cam« up with a Mr. Shelby, from Pickaway Plains; and as he was travelling the same road with us, we kept company, and I availed myself of the opportunity to procure some little in- formation regarding that district. He told me there was a good road on the east side of the Scioto, through the plains to Franklinton, round which there was a fine country, settling up rapidly. The plains are large meadows, without timber, having a rich soil, and are easy of cultivation. They have had some little bilious fever and fever and ague this summer, but the country was generally healthy. A road leads from Franklinton to Newark, tlirough a level country, covered with beech wood, and is often muddy. The land is good all the way from the plains to Lake Erie, and < the banks of the lake, about Sandusky bay, is a fine fertile cou ry. We travelled through a tract of very iich bottom " land, along the banks of Paint creek, seven miles, and a mile beyond this we came to a tavern on a rising ground, where we stopped to break* fast. Lands in the neighbourhood sell at six dollars per acre, and are settling very fast ; the country, however, is a little subject to fever and ague ; but as the settlements progress, it will be drained, and become healthy. In passing along we saw some new stone buildings, and having crossed the river Paint we ascended a pretty high hill, on the summit of which is a most elegant stone building, belonging to Col. M^Arthur. Having passed this we came in view of Chil* licothe, 18 miles from Bainbridge, at which we arrived about mid- day, and I took up my lodgings at Buchanan's excellent tavern: my friend pursued his journey towards Zanesville. A ihort time after I arrived the dinner bell rang, and I re( to the dinner table, where I found 12 or 14 very respectable gen- tlemen seated, and there was a plentiful store of provisions. Afur dinner I took a walk through the, town, and ascended a hill to the west, about 300 feet high, where I had a fine view of the improve- mentis, of the river, and of the surrounding country. In the evening I made the necessary inquiries for facilitating the business «(f the ensuing day. , , _^, . ^ . OHIO, 4*^3 CHAPTER LXXXIV. Ckillicothe, — Chillicothe district^ — Virginia military lands. October 5th. I had by this time got so much into the habit of pursuing my researches, that it became a source of real enjoy- ment, and I found tlic people so civil and discreet, and so well dis- posed to give information, that I felt no difficulty in applying to them, whether I had a letter of introduction or not. I had nons to Chillicothe, and I did not feel the want of it. After an early breakfast I waited upon Mr. Spencer, at the United States land office, where I spent the greater part of the day; and to that gentleman's politeness and attention I was princi- pally indebted for the information arranged under the respective heads in this chapter. Chillicothe is situated on an extensive level plain, on the west bank of the Scioto river, which, by making a bend, bounds tha town on the north, and the out-lots on the east. It is laid out on a pretty large scale, and n great number of out-lots are attached to it. Tlie plan is regular, the streets crossing one another at right angles, and every square is divided into four parts by lanes crossing one another also at right angles, and at equal distances be- tween the streets. This must be a great advantage, as it gives the possessor of every lot a back entry. The streets are 66 feet wide, the alleys 16^; the lots contain four acres each. Chillicothe was one of the first settled towns in the state of Ohio, and was for a considerable time the seat of government; it now consists of about 250 houses, and contains 1 360 inhabitants, of whom 126 are free people of colour. The public buildings are a court-house, jail, academy, three churches, and a market-house. There are two rope walks, one cotton factory, one wool factory, one nail factory, one pottery several distilleries, and four tan yards , and these are all thriving establishments. There are good mechanics in all the other branch- es calculated for the country. There are six taverns and 19 stores; and this is a very general market for the surplus produce of the country, consisting mostly of flour, of an excdUent^quality, pork, &c. Mechanics, manufacturers, and labourers are all well paid, hav- ing from 75 cents to one dollar 50 cents r^ier day, and sQch is the I . )% 424 THAVELS IN ]ow price of provisions, that the expense of living iv little more than a third of what it is in the eastern states. A few of the prices may be mentioned ; flour 4 dollars per barrel, pork 2 dol- lars 50 cents per cwt., fowls 6^ cents each ; beef, mutton, and veal, 3 to 3i cents per lb. The principal branches of manufacture that are most susceptible of improvement are hemp, cotton, and wool ; and glass, connected with beer and porter brewing could be established to advantage. A great proportion of the inhabitants are from Virginia and Maryland, and a number from Pcnnsylvannia ; there are but few New Englanders or foreigners. They are reputed to be sober and industrious, and are generally well informed. Education is pretty well attended to, and I observed that they were by no means indifferent politicians. It was on the eve of an election ; there are three newspapers in the place, and they were all hard at work in support of their respective friends or favourites, as can* didates for the assembly. I like to see men take an active interest in the public concerns of the country. The phrase " he is a peaceable man, and never meddles with politics," is no great compliment to the inhabitant of a free country. Public aifiiirs must be managed by somebody, and to say that people are in- different as to who that may be, is, in other words, to say they liave no patriotism, nor care about the public welfare. The du- ties of an active politician and a peaceable citizen are surely com- patible. Let him support the candidate of his choice by all the activity in his power; but let this be done with integrity and with justice to his opponent ; let him adhere strictly to the truth, and j avoid calumny : and after the election, when the voice of the majority has expressed who the rulers shall be, let these have the undivided support of the community, till next election. Chillicothe District is bounded by Canton district on the north;! by Zaaesville district, and the Ohio company's purchase on the cast; by the Ohio river south; and by the Virginia miiitarjf lauds on the west ; which are divided from Chillicothe district by the Scioto river. The length from north to south is 145 miles, and the breadth from east to west 42; it contains about ^000 square miles, or about 3,200,000 acres. The northern part, be- ing nearly one-third of this district, is part of the United Statct j military lands, and is generally a good soil. Part of it is level | and marshy ; but it is free fram swamps, and, being nearly all ap- OHIO. 425 proprlatcd to agriculture, will soon be drained and healthy. It abounds witk springs of excellent water, and numerous rivulets. To the south of this runs a stripe of land about three miles broad, and 42 miles lung, which was appropriated to the relief of such at iiad to abandon their settlements in the time of the war, and take refuge in other places, and is thence called refugee land. It \i also good land, but there is a large swamp in the middle of it, between Walnut creek, a branch of the Scioto, and Licking creek, a branch of the Muskingum. From thence to Chillicothe is an undulating country, abounding in hill and dale, and so continues to the Ohio, the hills incicnsing in size as the country approaches that river. The soil is in general good throughout the whole tract, the best of it being along the Ohio and Scioto rivers, which for that reason has the greatest number of settlements ; but the whole is settling rapidly. There arc large beds of limestone and freestone in the district, and these are in- terspersed with beds of clay, which retain the water, and this cir- cumstance gives the country a preference over Kentucky. Iron ore is plenty, and it is supposed the hills abound with coal. The whole is well watered, abounding in springs and small streams, having excellent situations for mill seats ; the Ohio washes it on the south, a distance of 60 miles ; and the Scioto washes it on the west its whole length. The Scioto is a very beautiful stream. It rises about 60 miles to the north-west of this district, within a few miles of the Sandusky river, and pursuing a south-east course, passes the Indian boundary line, from whence it runs nearly a south direction, about 50 miles ; and at Fraiik- linton forms a junction with a fine stream called Whetstone river. South uf this about 10 or 12 miles it receives the waters of Big Bell)''s creek, composed of Walnut creek and Alum creek, and thence runs nearly south, receiving, in its progress from the west, Derby creek. Deer creek, and Paint creek ; from the cast. Low- er Walnut creek, Sippo creek, and Salt creek ; besides a great number of small streams ; and, thus augmented, it falls into the Ohio, 70 miles by water, and 45 by land, below Chillicothe. The river has a fine gentle current, throughout its whole course, and is navigable for keel- boats to Chillicothe, and for smaller craft nearly to its source. There are several mineral springs in the dis» Irict; the chief are a salt spring, end a sulphur spriBg, not far from Chillicothe. 54 fa 1 p m^^^ 426 TRAVELS IK This district is fiLcIy limbered ; the principal kinds arc oik hickory, nsli, sugar-maple, chesnut, honey-locust, walnut, &c. ■ and the soil is kindly to the raising of fruits, vegetables, grain, and grass. Land is very various in price, according to situation and quoli* ty. Hie United States' lands are two dollars per acre, witli four years to pay them ; or if purchased for cash, 1 dollar 64> cents. A good deal of the best of these are picked up, but many desira* l)lc tracts yet remain; and from the unquestionable security of the land-titles, they generally meet with a preference. The bot- tom lands are nearly all engrossed by individuals, and arc resold as high as they can. The average price for uncleared land, in the bottoms, is about five or six dollars per acre. Farms of land, partly improved, are constantly in the market, at from two to six dollars, according to the quality of the soil, and the value of the improvements. Horses sell for 40 to 80 dollars; cows 10 to 12 dollars; sheep 2 dollars each. This district contains part of 10 counties, and the inhabitants may be estimated at about 30,000, who have all settled here with- in 25 years ; and the population is likely to increase very fast, par- ticularly on the banks of the Scioto, where the seat of government will be ultimately fixed, the site of it being on the east side of the river, nearly opposite to Franklinton. The lands in this district are rated, in the state books, nearly as follows, whence some idea may be formed of the soil : in 100 parts, 4 are of 1st rate, 52 2d rate, and 4i4i 3d rate : but it is to be observed thai this gives only a relative idea, for a great deal of the third rate land, in the state of Ohio, would be reckoned first rate in some other places. A general remark may also be made, that the occupiers of land, particularly non-residents, holding large tracts, will, in order to save the land-tax, probably in their returns make as much of the land second and third rate, as they consistently can. First rate land pays a tax of 1 dollar 20 cents per 1 00 acres ; second rate 1 dollar ; and third rate 60 cents. Although the average price of land may be quoted at 2 dollars, and some as high as 10 or 12 dollars, yet some districts of hilly land could be purchased for hal ' a dollar an acre, and probably one ot the best businesses in all the country would be sheep-farm- inor in such districts, connected with the manufacture of woollen yarn and cloth. ' ' / Leave ChilUcotJu onio. 4S7 On the Virginia military lands my observations shall be short, because a great many of those made on the Chillicothc district ap- plies olso to tlicm, and there are certain generol remarks that will be more nppropriate in the general account of the state of Ohio. This tract Ih bounded by the Indian boundary line on the north, by the Ohio on the south, by the Cincinnati district and Symmcs's purchase on the west, and by the Chillicothe district on the cast. It ib about 120 miles long, and nearly 60 broad; and contains up- wards of 6000 square miles, or nearly 4,000,000 of acres. The face of the country, soil, and timber are very near'y ass^' railated to those in the Chillicothe district. There '.re- u ^T«iu( raricty of small streams, and desirable situations foi kMiil*s*.i(l are rapidly increasing In number, in wealth, and impruvsmonlji. '' By the state books, this district appears to be i p^^r cent lai rate, 60 per cent 2d rate, and 36 per cent 3d rat'.' Ir'.ul. The country in the immediate neighbourhood of Cliillicor? a* U, really beautiful. The plain on which it stands, consi^tinp; of a- bout 10,000 acres, is as level as a bowling-green ; and it in houn(l>» edon the west, north-west, and south-east by pretty hit^^h hills, from whence there are charming views. The Scioiu is a Ofuv stream,about 200 yards broad, with a gravelly bottom, and ahonvid'i' with fish, so that it 1$ both useful and omameutal to the town. ■■.i-'-^u. CHAPTER LXXXV. Leave Chillicothe^^-New Lancaster^ — Springfield,'- '/f-newllltK October 6th. I left ChilUcothe at 6 o*cl( ck. 1\q morning was foggy and cool. The river was low, .ind I forded it about knee deep. On reaching the north ba;fk, I passed through a fine bottom, the property of Mr. Zune, of Wheeling, to be after- I wards noticed. Here the dew was so heavy, that the lofty trees ook their pearly drops over me like a shower of rain. About [lialf a mile from the river, the country rises by a gradual ascen^ and the road continues good to Keneconek creek, a beautiful clear itream, which falls into the Scioto seven or eight miles above I Chillicothe. There are some excellent flour-mill» upon it, and i » ; which must be of great advantage to this part of the coun- tfy> Water is always to be found of a good quality, by digging 12orj4te^t, if ,:'i 430 TRAVELS IN We Stopped at a good tavern to breakfast, 12 miles from New Lancaster, where we were told that the whole of the township was good, and so much improved that the school section was leased for 56 dollars per annum. The money arising from it was divided among those who sent their children to school, in proportion to the number sent. From hence we rode about 14 miles to Jonathan creek, through a country agreeably uneven, rather hilly, indeed, having an ex- cellent soil for wheat ; the principal timber is oak, hickory, wal* nut, and chesnut. Jonathan creek, along which we travelled some way, is a beautiful little stream, with freestone banks, and a- bounding with mill-seats, coal, and iron ore ; and the whole country round was really beautiful, the view being enlivened by the radiant beams of the sun on a very fine evening. We travelled on through a rich valley, and passing through Springfield, a handsome place, mostly built on one street, we forded the Muskingum abput knee deep, the current very rapid the bottom fine gravel, and the breadth about 150 yards. We arrived at Zanesville about sun-set. ' : T tzm^s ^..ui - j^^ Zanesville — Zanesville district, -rrii iftjf firii* w» HI/' i Hit ,;['.;' l.» - /> - V Dr. STANBERY, of New York, was the first person whom I heard mention Zanesville, in the course of my inquiries in the spring of this year ; I had, however, heard a good deal of it afte^ wards, and expected to find it a pretty little place. But it cer- tainly did exceed my expectations. I found a large thriving town, with a great number of handsome brick houses, the buildings going rapidly on ; and every thing wearing a flourishing aspect. Tlie ground around it w&s well cleared, the neighbouring hills were getting into a state of cultivation, mills were erecting, and bridges, banks, and manufactures were projected. The situation too, for all these projects, appeared favourable. The Muskingum river is navigable to this place, and beyond it, to near its head, from whence there is a communication with lake Erie^ by a small portage. There are fine falls at Zanesville, and mills may be erect* •d to almost an unlimited extent. Licking creek pours its wa> " *m>?-, ts^ L'\ • TV- *-»«» ^ Y^:?' round ZA:SrESVlL.L.E >;) «•"*•;(; ti^^'l m m %:9, iM^ r \ r*'- .^ y i'tAjrm::iV.hx \j^ h •#• ■ ^.. ^, KdwMi.ivni ;■.•**: ^, /0 .AAVl'i.».V.t^ i* I •' tiVu in uJj ••»* ;^-.- \ ■«*' .■>,.,. ^^SM. r;ii"^ir»r.i« •^■V-, ,.«,^"a-"M HI/ .«^'tt»'.a«i*&«4 -^if "^m-' ■4 . tors into the Mi fords also a fine greeable prospci ^ lent soil, timber \ H state road from "Tiiis mu»t cer Such were my resolved to spen make remarks; its friendly irjhal ville, and they ir tatedmy inquiri< into this chapter. Zanesville is miles from the ( north latitude 39 The scite of the 1 sides of the river ; sid^ where the tc ing one another ai I are 132 feet deep, and sell for from ] out-lots of five acn lars an acre. The iihprovemc Five years afterwai it now contains ab< tants. The whole are built of brick, i a court-house, occi office. There is nc proposition has alsi j%um, and to est Icellent water from Ifeetdeep, but probj I'upply of spring wa Iwhich have a sufficit |«8t houses. • The legislature at the ,-^1 OHIO. 431 tcrs into the Muskingum by a cascade opposite the town, &nd af- fords also a fine situation for mill-seatS) while it forms a very a- greeable prospect. The banks of these rivers abound with excel- lent soil, timber, coal, limestone, and iron ore; and the great state road from Pittsburg to Kentucky passes through the town. " This must certainly become a fine situation for manufactures/* Such were my first impressions on viewing Zanesville, and I resolved to spend some days there, to procure information and make remarks ; in doing which I met with every assistance from its friendly inhabitants. I had letters to two gentlemen in Zanes- ville, and they introduced me to many others, who greatly facili- tated my inquiries ; I shall condense the result of my observations into this chapter. Zanesville is situated on the Muskingum river, about 64 miles from the Ohio by land, and from 70 to 80 by water ; in north latitude 39° 58', west longitude from Washington ^^ 50'. The scite of the town occupies a mile square, and extends to both sides of the river ; but all the buildings yet erected are on the east side, where the town is neatly laid out by streets and lanes, cross- ing one another at right angles like Chillicothe. The building lots are 132 feet deep, by 66 feet in front, making one-fifth of an acre and sell for from 100 to 1000 dollars. There are a number of out-lots of five acres each, and they sell for from 100 to 200 dol- lars an acre. The improvements in Zanesville commenced in the year 1804. fire years afterwards it contained 92 houses, and 600 inhabitants; I it now contains about 250 houses, and upwards of 1200 inhabi- itants. The whole township contains 2154. Many of the houses are built of brick, and a few of stone. The public buildings are, a court-house, occupied also as a state-house, a jail, and aland- office. There is no church, but one is about to be built, and a proposition has also been made to build a bridge over the Mus- Uingum, and to establish a bank.* The town is supplied by ex- jcellent water from pump-wells, which are generally about 45 Ifeet deep, but probably at no very distant period they will get a jsupply of spring water from the hills to the eastward of the town, j»hich have a sufficient elevation to send it to the tops of the high- lit houses. The legislature at the last session passed acts to build a bridge and to incorporate V btnk. Murray, Draper, Faiiman, & Co. lately finished tlie plates for the notes. ■ % i Wm. ! l.> f si it 8ff m iinP' fl! rm 43a TRAVELS IN ZanesviUe is a place of considerable trade ; it has 1 1 taverns and 1 1 stores ; and the following professions are exercised : masons and stone-cutters, brick •makers, carpenters, cabinet-makers, smiths, clock and watch-makers, tanners, curriers, saddlers, boot andj shoe-makers, butchers, bakers, hatters, taylors, printers, rope- makers, potters, and painters. The price of labour is nearly the same all over the western country : a common labourer has 75 cents per day, brick -makers have 5 dollars per 1000 for bricks, and 2 dollars 50 cents for laying. Stone-citters and carpenters work at the Philadelphia prices. Other trades have about one dollar per day. The markets are favourable to tradesmen and labourers. House- rent may be quoted at 36 to 50 dollars per annum ; coals 5^ cents per bushel, delivered ; wood 1 dollar per cord, delivered ; flour 4 dollars per barrel ; meal 33 cents per cwt. ; potatoes 25 cents per bushel; turnips 12^: other vegetables plenty and cheap. Beef, mutton, and veal 3 to 4< cents per lb. ; pork 2 dollars 50 cents per cwt : bacon 10 cents per lb. ; venison 25 per ham ; fowls 6^ each; ducks 12^; geese 37?; wild turkies 25; hog's lard 3 per lb.; cheese and butter 12^ ; whiskey and peach-brandy 40 per gallon; cyder 5 dollars per barrel ; salt 1 dollar 50 cents per bushel ; fish very plenty and cheap. Boarding from 1 dollar 75 cents to 2 dol- lars 50 cents per week. Various branches of manufactures miirht be established here to I great advantage, of which may be enumerated, cotton-spinning and weaving, wool-spinning and weaving, ropes, spun-yarn, and cotton bagging; frame smith-work and hosiery; glass and glasj bottles ; beer and porter. The materials for all these are abun- dant, or can be easily procured. Cotton is brought from Tennes-j see at from four to five cents per lb. Sheep, both of the commoDJ tmd Merino breed, thrive remaikably well, and are getting very plenty. Hemp grows luxuriantly on the river bottoms; ironisi plenty every where through the country ; every material for mi ing glass is on the spot. Grain is very cheap ; and hops grow J spontaneously. There is a spirit to encourage domestic manufactures among tliel inhabitants, and any manufacture that is calculated for the place,j and well conducted, is certain to succeed. ,,:^ In point of commerce, ZanesviUe is likely to become a consider-l able place. The banks of the Muskingum and its waters upward! are settling rapidly ; and the quantity of produce that Avill coniej down the river will encrease every year. At present almost the only article of surplus produce is flour, of which the price has beeo quoted. Other articles are raised in abundance, but the great influx of emigrants consumes nearly the whole. The inhabitants of Zanesville are very mixed. About half are probably from Pennsylvania, and the remainder are principally from the New England states and Virginia. There are few fo- reigners. They are quiet and moral in their deportment, and are pretty well informed. There is no public seminary of education established as yet, but it is presumed an academy will soon be built ; and there is a good opening for a scientific teacher. The educa- tion of young ladies has not been neglected ; a female seminary was about to be established by two ladies from Baltimore. There are several common schools, and the fund for the support of this important branch of education is very ample ; but as it applies to the whole state, it will be noticed hereafter. The police of the town is at present on the same footing as the other townships, under the management of trustees ; but it was in- tended to apply for a charter of incorporation, and, if it is incor- porated, it will, of course, be under the direction of mayor, alder- men, &c. Zanesville district is bounded north by Canton district, south by the Ohio company's purchase, east by Steubenville and Mari- etta districts, and west by Chillicothe district. Its length, from south to north, is about 72 miles; its breadth is about 50 miles ; and its area about 3,600 square miles, or 2,304>,000 acres. Upwards of two-thirds of this district is occupied by the army lands, and a small portion is refugee lands. The face of the coun- try is beautifully diversified. To the south, along the Muskingum, the hills are pretty high and rough ; to the north the surface is agreeably uneven, with some pretty high hills : to the north-west it is more level. The soil is various, but a great portion of it is od ; the bottoms on the rivers are very rich, and the hills are generally covered with a strong mould, which answers well for i wheat. The district stands, in the state books, about 4 per cent. I of first rate ; 40 per cent, of second rate ; and 56 ptr cent, of third rate land. The whole is abundantly supplied with freestone, I limestone, iron ore, and inexhaustible beds of coal. The district is remarkably well watered. The Muskingum runs I through it from one extremity to the other. This beautiful river S5 vl ' s»" Mfii 431 TRAVELS IS merits particular notice. Il rises in a small lake on the boandary line of the Connecticut reserve, and passing into that district, it rung MTCst about 14 miles ; and from thence to the Cayahogan river, which falls into lake Erie, there is a portage of only seven or eight miles. From thence it bends to the south, and, running nearly a south vn to each other, the whole is conducted without tumult or noise, or any of those disgraceful scenes which often attend elections on a large scale. Agriculture is, of course, the great business of a new country ; so that farmers, and such mechanics as contribute to the support of that important branch, are the best adapted to the country ; but I have no doubt that manufactures will flourish, although I think it may be prudent for such manufacturers only to go there as have capitals to carry on the business, and such workmen as are specially written for. The disposition to encourage manu- factures is sufliciently obvious, and there are some of the inhabi- tants who would even support a useful undertaking by pecuniary aid ; but the greater part of the capital in this country is ves- ted in new lands as fast as it is accunmlated ; and there being a constant drain upon the specie capital, by payments to the U- nited States government, there is very little capital to spare for other objects. •', Very considerable progress has been made in constructing roads, and in other internal improvements. The price of land is various, according to bituation and qua- lity. The United States lands here are the same as in other districts, 2 dollars per acre, on a credit, or 1 dollar 64 cents, cash ; but purchases can often be made of individuals on better terms, particularly from those who hold very large tracts. The land tax on a large tract is heavy, and after paying it a few years, without getting any return, the holders, particularly non-residents, are glad to sell out at any price. This circumstance, connected witb that of the United States holding such large tracts of land at a low price, will always operate against land speculations on a large scale* The only mode in which a land trade can be profitable is to pur- chase a tract for cash, subdivide it into farms of different sizes to ac- commodate different settlers, and dispose of them at fair prices as soon as possible. In this way the land trade is fair and honoura- ble, being exactly similar to that of buying any other commodity by wholesale, and selling it by retail ; the public are accommodated, and the land-dealer has his certain rewai'd. In any other way spe* OHIO. 437 culations in land are hazardous. Good lands rise in value, certain- Iv; but such as speculate in them on a large scale, with a view of making money, will in all probability be disappointed ; for the accu- mulation of interest, and the operation of the land -tax, .will be found, generally, to amount to more than the rise on the lands. From the facility with which live stock may be reared, the price of them is reasonable. Horses sell from 25 to 75 dollars, cows 15 to 20 dollars, sheep 2 to 2 dollars 50 cents. The scite of Zanesville, together with that of New Lancaster, and a tract of land at Chillicothe, each a mile square, were granted by the United States government to Mr. Zane, of Wheeling, as a com- pensation for his services in laying out the state road from Wheel- ing to Limestone. Two others were associated with Mr. Znne, and they divided the property. Mr. Zane's share is that beautiful tract of bottom land opposite to Chillicothe, which is rapidly improving in value; so also is thesciteof New Lancaster; but that of Zanes- Tille exceeds them both : and if its progress is not checked by the proprietor setting too great a value upon the remaining lots, of which I think there is some little danger, it is likely to become a very fine place indeed. As a situation for manufactures it has almost every advantage; there is a sufficiency of water to drive 50 mills ; coal is on a hill in sight of the centre of the town ; and there are iron works within three or four miles of it; sheep are thriving in a wonderful manner ; the river navigation is complete ; and the roads are im- proving every year. In short, I never saw a place that appeared to be better adapted for the establishment of almost every branch of manufactures ; and before leaving it, I shall say a few words on that subject generally. " Is it best that all our citizens should be employed in the im- provement of the land, or that one-half should be called off from that to exercise manufactures and handicraft arts for the other?" This question was proposed by a celebrated public character in the United States, in the year 1781 (seepage 181,) and the an- swer to it (page 182) suggests an important reflection. It shows that the policy of the leading men in the United States, was fa- vourable to the system of foreign commerce, and opposed to the establishment of internal manufactures; and the great change which has since taken place, must be predicated upoi _ very great change of circumstances. We accordingly ifind it stated in the last official report upon the subject (see page 278,) that " several 4S8 TRAVELS IN of the obstacles which impetled the progrcsM of manufucturch hare been removed or lessened. The chcapncsit of provisionti liad [\\. wuyts to u certain extent, counterbalanced the high price of manual labour ; and thiu i» now, in many important branches, nearly superseded by the introtluction of machinery. A great A> mcrican capital has been acquired during the lust 20 years; ami the injurious violation of the neutral commerce of the United States, by forcing industry and capital into other channels, have broken inveterate habits, and given a general impulse, to which mu8t be ascribed the great increase of manufactures during the last two years." The first remark that presents itself is, that, in our reasonings upon this subject, we are extremely apt to ussuciate with it the idea of the miseries to be fuund in tiie workshops of Europe. But I think the association is incorrect. In Europe, particularly in those quarters of it under the operation of the feudal system, ** manufactures are resorted to, of necessity, to support the sur- ))lus of their people." For the sale of the commodities manu* factured they are dependent on foreign markets. The work> hig people can seldom acquire any capital, they are obliged to ply from morning till night for a bare existence, and are subject to all the contingencies of a foreign export trade. Hence they are seldom even in comfortable circumstances ; when the foreign trade fails, their misery is oilcn extreme. But the case is entirely different in the United States. Here every class is on an equal footing, and every branch of internal industry will naturally find Us level. Manufactures will only flourish so far as they are on a level with other branches, and the workmen employed in them must be as well paid, as those em* ployed in agriculture ; in consequence of which we may fairly pre- sume, thatthey will be equally virtuous, iutclligent, and indepen- dent with the other members of the community. In a country where the government is exercised by the people, it is to be presumed that the state of society which is most conducive to internal independence is the best. A popular government can re- gulate the internal concerns of the country in a manner the best calculated to promote the public good: but they have no controul over foreign nations, and, so far as they are linked to them by trade, foreign nations may controul them. I should think, therefore, that the state of society which is the most independent is that OHIO. 439 which can supply tlic greatest number of its wuiits at home. ("Iiat the munuiucturcs of Antcricu will increase until they be cv alto a lupply of the demand at home, I have no doubt, and to in it ex- tent they woultl be perfectly congenial with the j)riicticc of virtue, it is only when the produce is so great that they depend upon a foreijjn market for a vent of the surplus, that they become perni- cious. Thnt monufactures and the mechanical arts are n >t in theitisclvcct hurtful to tt community, is obvious from mp' . considerations. Among others", a very bright example may be referred to in the Harmonist Society. They not only supply all their wants within themselves, but they sell annually a large portion of their manu- fiictures to their neighbours ; yet we find that neither the orga- nization of manufactures, nor the exercise of tiie mechanical arts have at all tended to hurt their morals, or to interfere with their prosperity. On the contrary, they are probably the most vii tu- oiis society on the face of the earth, and they are flourishing be- yond all example. The plain reason is, that they arc all on nn equal footing at home, and are not dependent on any person a- broad. ITiey can regulate their own affairs in their own way. And it does not follow that in the prosecution of manufactures and the mechanical arts, if confined to a supply of the internal con- sumption of the country, ** one-half of the people are taken away from agriculture" I have not the means of calculating the pro- portion that will be necessary, but I observe that even > in Britain, where they are so completely dependent upon foreign markets, it is nearly as one and seven-tenths to two : the agriculturists being estimated at 2,000,000, and the mechanics ami manufacturers at 1,730,000. In the Hormonist Society, the agriculturists are 103, mechanics 66, manufacturers 63 ; but the society have adopted the principle to raise no grain for sale, and to vest the whole of their surplus labour in manufactured articles for the country. By the report before alluded to (see page 277,) it appears that the A- Imcricun manufactures exceed 120,000,000 dollars, and the imports amount to obout 30,000,000 dollars ; so that the addition ofonc- lourth to the manufacturing class would perfect the system; but huch is the proportion of labour that can be saved by nmchinery» that it is presumed, if it were fairly applied, the additional hands wanted would be much less than one-fourth, and not at all so many as would make a sensible diminution in the ranks of llio 440 TRAVELS IK agriculturists. I have else where remarked, << that in every connk >unity there are a great number of the members who are bet- ter calculated for labour in the house than in the field." I may add here, that in proportion to the increase of manufactures in the country, will the farmer have a demand for his surplus pro< duce at home, and be less dependent on a foreign market ; aiid it appears that he can be better accommodated, generally, with home-made articles, as they are more substantial in the fabric, and can be adapted with greater facility to the taste of the wearer, than foreign manufactures. These remarks apply with peculiar force to the western couutrj-, where the produce is far from a market, and where materials for manufactures arc so abundant. CHAPTER LXXXVII. Leave Zanesville, — Coshocton, — New Philadelj^hia, — Canton. October ISth. I set out from ZanesvIUe at 8 o'clock in the morning. I crossed the Muskingum by a boat, and travelled near the west bank, through a good tract of land, but little culti- vated. At 10, I passed over a pretty high hill, where I had a fine view, and, through a country agreeably diversified. I reach- ed Wakatomika creek, 15 miles from Zanesville. The land along \ the Muskingum would make very desirable farms, if cut into sec- tions, having a quarter of a mile along the river, and one miie j back. At Wakatomika I saw a large flock of sheep, with some inerinoes among them, and was informed they belonged to a Mr. Adams, who had been very successful in sheep-farming. Thej river banks are here fertile and beautiful; and, on the west bank,| there are large and fertile bottoms. I travelled along these, close by the river, about 2 miles, when I passed a methodist meeting-house. The hearers amounted to about 30 or 40 only; but the preacher I was holding forth as if he had been addressing as many thousands. He was literally roaring. A little beyond this, I stopped at a tavern to feed my horse, and was told the family was from Vir-j ginia, and liked this place remarkably well. The bottoms continue 6 or 7 miles along the river, and are in- terspersed with several little openings, the work, no doubt, of I OHIO. 4U the Indian tribes, now no more in this place. About 6 miles from the tavern, I passed over some of the river-hills, rough, steep, and stony ; and thence descended into a rich bottom. Here I met a family in a waggon, travelling to New Lancuster, and they very civiliv gave me information as to the best place of crossing the river. I obeyed their directions, and crossed over where they had done with their waggon. The river was here u beautiful jtream, about 180 yards wide, above knee-deep, with a fine san- dy bottom. Along the cast bank there is a beautiful plain of very rich land, 4 or 5 miles to Coshocton, at the confluence of White Woman's creek and Tuscarawa river, and, having reached it, I stopped all night. ' '' ' ,...-,. v., , » , : Coshocton is the seat of justice of Coshocton county, and is quite anew place, containing about 140 inhabitants, h is a little ^iub- ject to fever and ague ; but the unheulthiness will be but tempo- rary. This situation is beautiful, and the country round it is rich, abounding in coal, limestone and freestone. The timber is oak, chesnut, walnut, &c. ; and the woods abound with sassafras. A great deal of stock is raised here for the eastern market. The country is so favourable, that cattle, to the value of 2100 dollars, has been raided, and sold off 90 acres of land ; and 4500 bushels of corn have been raised on 80 acres in one year. - i* ' - ^ ^ October 14th. As I was preparing for my joumey, I fell in with a Scotsman from Edinburgh, and we had a little conversation about AM Reekie. The morning was damp and foggy. I rode about a mile through the bottom, and could trace the cause of the fever eiiil ague, in a number of Uttle ponds which stand undrained in j the meadow. The road passes over pretty high hills, about 5 I miles, and then descends into a rich plain, in which, however, there are but few settlements, and the people look sickly. At 10 miles from Coshocton, I came to a small tavern, where 1 stopped I to breakfast. ^ t&^i-w..i . ..-^ .: - r- As I proposed to ride to New Philadelphia, 36 miles fi om Co- shocton, and the road was altogether new to me, and often cross- ed the river, I was anxious to be gone as soon as possible, and I urged the landlady to make all the haste she could. She said she would have the breakfast ready in a minute; but the first indica- Itioii I saw of despatch was a preparation to twist the necks ol two Ichickens. 1 told her to stop, and she gave me a look of astonish- jiDent. " Have you any eggs ?" said I. " Yes, plenty," replied 56 ■ ,>f w p M,' .1^ !■ '^;i', it. !ii 44 TRAVBLS IN she, still keeping in a stooping posture, with the chicken in her hand. " Well," said I, "just boil an egg, and let me hate it with a little bread and tea, and that will save you and I a great deal of trouble." She seemed quite embarrassed, and said she . never could set down a breakfast to me like that. I assured her I would take nothing else. " Sliall I fry some ham for you alone irith the eggs ?" said slie. " No," said I, " not a bit." « Well, .will you take a little stewed poik ?" "No," said 1. "Shall I make some fritters for you ?" " No." " Preserve me, what will you take, then ?" " A little bread, and tea, and an egg." " Well, you're the most extraordinary man that I ever saw ; but I can't set down a table that way." I saw that I was only to lose time by contesting^ the matter farther; so I allowed her to follow her own plan as io the cooking, assuring her that I would take mine as to eating. She detained me about half an hour, and at last placed upon the table a profusion of ham, eggs, fritters, bread, butter, and some excellent tea. All the time I was at breakfast, she kept pressing me to eat; buft I kept my ownj Counsel, and touched none of the dishes, except the bread, tea, and an egg. She aflectetl great surprize, ami when I paid her the | ordinary fave, a quarter of a dollar, she said it was hardly worth j any thing. I mention this circumstance to show the kind ho$- 1 pitality of the landlady, and the. good living enjoyed by the back- woods people. About a mile from the tavern, I passed a school, and thence | through fertile bottoms, bounded by pretty high hills well calcula- ted for stieep grazing. At half past 111 crossed the river, whicli was above knee deep, ami about 80 yards wide, with a finegri-l velly bottmn. At 12 o'clock 1 passed through New Comer'sl town, and travelled about half an hour through jMVtty extensivel plains. I then ascemled a little hill, with a spring by the side oil the way, which had a very bad smell ; and I observed in them bourhood a great deal of wood in a decaying state, and a vast| quantity of leaves alniost in a ste of putridity. The land is lui- commonly rich ; but there are few settlements. From hence u| about 4 miles, through a pretty muddy road, to Yankee-towu,! whk J there are a number of thriving setlleraents; but, ovviiigtol its being an luditm rc.serviiti<.>ft, Uk; settlers cannot become posscssfdj of the land, and tliey move off as soon as they get land of ihein own; so that the place will prolxibly not socm beof mue very poor. This is also an Indian reservation. Two miles and a half fi'om Gnadenhntten I again crossed the river, above knee deep, the bottom fine sand, and tho water pure. The road, for a mile beyond the river, is very bad, through a rich bottom, after which it improves, and passes through a very beautiful country to Shocnbrun, an Indian town, consisting of a few houses oidy. The Indians look wretchedly poor. Haifa mile beyond this I aspin crossed the river, knee deep, and t'lcncc passed on through a fine level plain, a few miles, to New Philadelphia, where I i- ped all night. New Philadelphia is situated on a beautiful plain of SOOO acres, in a large bend oftlieTuscarawa river. It was laid outin ISO*, and is now the seat of justice of Tuacarawa cwmty, and consists of about 22 dwelling-houses, containing 180 inhabitants. It is di- vided into lots 88 feet square, which sell at from 20 to 200 dollars. The settlers are mostly Gei-mans from Pennsylvania. The pro- duce of the country is not more than s'.!i 'cient for the settlement, except stock, which they drive to the eastward : the cattle to Philsiilelphia, and the hogs to Baltimore. The land is gooil in the rieighbourhood, and sells for about 4- dollars per acre. The tim- ber is oak, hickory, walnut, sugar-maple, and elm ; and great quantities of Columbia root grows in the woods, of which 500 pounds might, in some places, be gathered in a day. Coal, lime- stone, iron ore, and freestone abound in the neighbourhood. October 15th. This morning I fell in with an honest Dutch farmer, and a young man from ClevelaiKl ; and, as they were go- ing the same road, I availed myself of their company. We tra- vrfletl through the plain about 2 miles, and I obsei-ved that the soil was very sandy, and a great under growth of oak had sprung up in the coun^e of a few years, a proof that these open prairies must have been kept clear of wood by the atuiual fires of the In- dians. Some of the adjoining hills were cultivated, and bore ex- cellent crops t>f wheat. To the north there is an opening, and 2n extensive prospect. Two miles from the town we forded the river, about 80 yards 'ide, and about knee deep, the bottom gravel, and the banks fcr- 44i TRAVELS IN tile,' but uncultivated. The lands on the north side of the river rise very beautifully, by a gradual ascent, and are of an excelleut quality. I was told that a considerable quantity was here for sale. 1 found our traveller from Lake Erie very communicative, and he gave me a great deal ot information about the banks of the lake. The German told me he was settled, very much to his satisfaction, not far from where I breakfasted yesterday morning. He said the fever and ague will be very temporary, as the river is pure water, and the lands can be all drained. The river makes a considerable bend to the eastward, to where it receives the waters of Gutgat- sink creek, and the road runs right along its banks, where the whole country is really beautiful ; but as we proc>?eded in our course the bottom on which we travelled became narrow and stony. We passed the river by a fine ford, about 60 yards wide, as usual about knee deep, and a gravelly bottom. This is ths seveiMh time that I forded this river since I left Zanesville, and I always found nearly the same result — clear water, knee deep, and gravelly bot- tom ; and 1 have no hesitation in pronouncing it the most beautiful river I ever saw, except the Ohio ; and the scenery on its banks is even more beautiful than on the Ohio. This is a very fine coun- try, and will, in my opinion, become the seat of most extensive and thriving settlements. After crossing the river we called at the house of a Dutch farmer, who told us he had settled here 10 years ago, at which time there was no house between him and Gnadenhutten, and there are now numerous settlements ; a proof of the rapidity with which this country^ is settling up. We travelled along a fertile plain on the river's bank, bounded with pretty high land on our right, for four miles, and stopped at a Dutch tavern to breakfast. The Dutch people make excellent settlers in a new country. they are a pit)Uding, slow, sure-footed, sober race ; and have an excellent knack at finding out the rich places. The only loe they have to encounter is the ague; but they seem tj be used toi it, as the fisherwoman's eels .^ere to skinning. They don't mind a shake. Ont of the women here, a gre^t long, lank, leathern- necke . Ccniton, — Canton district, — Connecticut resetue, — Cleveland, Canton is the seat of jus^^ice for Stark county, and is situated in latitude 4fO° 48', about 100 miles from Pittsb rg, and nearly 400 from Philadelphia. It is regularly laid out in streets and lots» The streets are from 80 to 100 feet wide, crossing ore another at right angles, and there if a square in the centre. The lets are about 250 in number and 66 feet in front by 198 deep, being near one-third of an acre, and they sell for from 50 to 300 dollars. Canton was laid out about five years ago, and now consists of 80 dwelling-houses, four taverns, and nine stores. The number of inhabitants is about 250. There are no public buildings. The inhabitants are composed of farmers and mechanics, and are mostly from Pennsylvania. No manufactures have yet been established except in families, but these are general; and there are a number of mills in the ncighbourhoad, and several wool carding machines. Shccj) thrive remarkably well in the neighbourhood, •ind it is presumed a manufacture of coarse woollens would succeed. V; i:: lip '■' U 446 TRAVELS IK The price of labour is nearly the same as at EanesviHe , common Ittbtnircrs have 50 cents pet day and found, masons, carpenters &c., one dollar per day. The great influx of new settlers consume all the surplus provisions, except stock ; wlilch is sent to a market at Philadelphia and Baltimore. Flour sells at five dollars per bar. rel, beef at 3 dollars 50 cents per cwt. The cliniate is pretty healthy. Some few cases of fever and ague occur, but they are not very common. ' ' « Canton Dismrcr was lately purchased from the Indians, and extends from the Tuscarawa river about €8 miles to the westward? ami from the Connecticut reservation to the north boundary of Zanesville and Chillicothe districts, its average breadth being 2S miles. Its area is about 1800 square miles, or 1,152,000 acres. The district is early all level, and fit for cultivation, but it is in many parts very miwldy, a circumstance common in the districts situated on the head waters of the rivers in this state. On this ac- count it is difficult to make good roads, and it requires a pretty thick population to drain the country, and make it agreeable; but there is a sufficient descent for carrying off the water, and this will be a very desirable country sofhe time hence. It is abundantly supplied with springs and streams of pure water. There is a great deal of prairie or meadow land interspersed through it. The principal timber is walnut, poplar, ash, elm, oak, sugar maple, and hickory. The soil is well adapted to the culture of grain, grass, tobacco, hemp, &c. This district is settling up mostly by people from Pennsylvania. It i« divided into two counties ; but the population is yet v^ry thiD, and is principally confined to tlie banks of the rivers. Very fa< vour^ble purchases could at present be made in tlie district. The greater part of the laud is, of course, in the hands of the United Stfvtes government. The i^ice has been noticed beiiue- The land- o£&ce is at Canton. October 16th, Last evening the weather was very warm, with a south wind, and thicl: dense clouds. Towards nine o'clock it cleared up, but the sky was heavy, and indicated nun. The comd wai to be seen witii an uncommonly long tail. In the morning it became suildenly cool, und it rained violently till about 1 1 o'clock. I Wjis anxious to noove on ; but I could not complain, for this was the only detention I met witli from the weather, except half an Iwur on the Ohio, in a journey of 1500 miles. At 12 o'clock it cleared OHIO. 447 up, and having met with a travelling companion going to Spnng- ficld) iu the Connecticut reservation, we set out together. We travelled about a mile through the open plain, when wc en- tered the woods, but the trees were uot thick. Six miles from Canton we passed a branch of Nunishilen creeks where a saw->miU is erected, the proj)eity of a Mr. Everhort ; and about a mik fur- ther we came to a very muddy road, through a thick wood, where we met with a sudden alarm. In the course of our journey the weather had assumed a settled aspect, and the son occasionally peeped through the clouds ; but now the sky was suddenly overcast, tod it began to rain. We took shelter below a large tree. In a few mkiutes we heard a noise like distant thunder, and it continued to ^preach us. It was the efibct of tlie wind on the woods, wlucli reacKiiig us brought duwn a limb £rom a tree in our neigbbourhoml with a crash. We Letl our position, and moved onwxird as last as a road, which nearly took our horses to the knees, would allow u«. The storm increased — tlic wind raged — limbs cracked, and the leaves of ti*ees flew about in all directions, darkening tlie aii' in their flight : the woods rung with the falling oi' trees ; and, to com- plete the alarm, a whole tree was blown down with dreodfiil vio- ieoce clo«e by us. We were for a few moments rivcttcd to the spot; bat our alarm soon subsided — it was now a dead calm — all was as sileot as the grave, and nothing of the squall remained but its e:!(- traordiuary effects on the woods. We moved on, and came to a little dealing, and a small cabin, where we proposed taking shelter ; but the pjeople giving it as Uieir opinion that the storm was over, we went on to a tavern 1 miles from Canton. The family informed us that they had moved from Maryland, and were of German origin ; they could still speak German, although their grandfather h&d left his native i^ountry 60 or 70 yeai's ago. " ' After leaving the tavern about a mUe, we saw a test pitclied in the woods a little off the ro:id, and turned aside to make inquiries. This was an euiigi ant taraily, consisting of a man, his wife, arttl two children. They had travelled far in quest of a settlcoieut, and their means being exhausted, they were obliged to stop sliort at tliifi place, wlieve they naeant to sit down and clear and cultivate a piece of Lind. In the language of the country, they were sqwUtets. The only visible substance they had, was a tent, a waggon, a horse, a cow. Olid tome bedding. The tent and bedding had been drme frame houses; but I was informed the foad was so bad that I could not get along, and was advised to go [by the portage path. In pursuance of this advice, I took a road leading to the west- |»wd, by the banks of the river, on which there were sonic settle- 57 '(\^^ 450 TRAVELS IN ments, and I passed a beautiful little lake of pure water. About 3 miles from the tavern I came into the portage road, and turning to the northward about half a mile, I came to a pretty little settle- ment on the banks of a stream called Mud creek, where there u. a fine fall of water and a saw-mill. The people here look healthy, and on asking one of them how he liked the country, he answered, "mighty well." . I passed the creek by a wooden bridge, from whence the road as. cends a pretty steep bank, from which I anticipated a good rond ; but was sadly disappointed. It passed through a series of mud swamps, in some of which my horse sunk to the knees. Gettimr through these, I reached a dry elevated rising ground, where I saw two deer bound across before me, and several very large black tur- kies took flight from the tops of the trees. Six miles from the creek I passed a farm-house, where I was told that the Cayahoga river was 2 miles to the westward, and that I was now in the lowiiship of Boston. From thence I passed through the worst road I had yet seen in America, 8 miles, and reached a small settlement at the junction of the Hudson road with the portage road ; here I stop- ped to feed my hors<^ after the fatiguing journey it had encounter- ed. 1 thought I must surely have been mishiformed as to the road by Hudson i it could not be so bad as that I had pa^jsed. I men- tioned this to the landlord ; but he assured me that my informa- tion was quite correct. The Hudson road was 10 degrees worse than the other. While I stopped here, a family came in widi a waggon, who informed me they were from Champlain, out 5 weeks, and were bound for the Miami country. From Cham- plain to the Miami country is not less than 800 miles, — a long and fatiguing journey for a family ; but they will have a beau- tiful and fertile country when they arrive at their place of des- tination. Soon after leaving this place 1 came up with a waggoner, who informed me his business was to haul salt, &c. from Cleveland, on the lake, to the portage on the Tuscarawa, and that the dis- tance was about 42 miles. He had been out in the rain all yesterday, and was out in the frost all night without afire, or the means of making one. A few miles from where we met we reached a settlement on Tinker's creek, where we stopped all night. , . Tinker's creek has its rise beyond the town of Hudson, anJ Islander, who lo OHIO. 451 is here a considerable stream, running in a deep valley, where it drives several mills. It falls into the Cayahoga river, a little be- low where we stopped. The landlord was from home, and the family were ill provided. They had no bread, nor wherewithal to make it ; they had no beef, and no sugnr ; but they had some bad tea, bad potatoes, and pork such ns I have seen in North Carolina. They made a sort of non-descript dish, by stewing a few slices of potatoes with the pork, and served it up, swimming in butter. It put me in mind of Burns' • . / I . , - Olio that would staw a sow." However, my fellow-traveller, the salt-hauler, made a very hear- ty menl ; and I took a liitle, and but a little of it, albeit I had got no dinner, and had n pretty good appetite. Some milk came in from the cows, of which I partook freely, and an obliging Rhode LIunder, who lodged at the house, favoured me with a little vfhiskey and water, which I found a real cordial. The night was very cold, and the kitchen, which contained the only fire in the house, being ill secured against it, I retired to bed in an adjoining room. As I dreaded the effects of the cold, I threw my own clothes over the bed>clothes, and, noticing a pane out of one of the windows, I shoved an empty bag into it, and retired to rest. October 18th. I awoke early this morning, shivering with cold, and wished it might soon be day-light, that I might depart from thi i uncomfortable place. At last day dawned, and I was not long in perceiving the light, for it poured in upon me in all directions, perpendicularly, diagonally, and laterally. The house was literally like a riddle, and there was an opening almost close by my bed-side, that would have let in a horse. When I looked round, and perceived so many openings, 1 could not but laugh I at my precaution of last night, in stopping up the broken window ; where, however, I allowed the bag to remain, as an admonition to the people to repair the house before winter, . ' At half past 6 I set out towards Cleveland, now 1 2 miles dis- I tiint. I ascended from the creek by a pretty steep path, from I whence I travelled a few miles to another creek, having a fall of UboutSO feet, and handsome free-stone banks. I saw some mills. I 'M I s», c?%. <% *^ ^>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.25 1^128 12.5 US ^^ m^M ■u li^ |22 In |U 11.6 I Photographic Sciences Corporation // P .^ .!^4 d V -^^ <^ <»\ '^rvV 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MStO (716) S72-4503 %^^^-v ^ I 452 TRAVKLS IN but they were idle, and appeared to be going to decay. The country appeared poor, and the people sickly. From Canton to this place, the travelling had been far from agreeable ; the roads were muddy, and often deep ; and the coun- try was DUO dull plain, withont a single object to exhilarate the imagination, or cheer the spirits ; and latterly the people looked pale and sickly. But I was buoyed up with the anticipation of the beauties of Lake Erie, to which I posted with all the alacrity of impatience. I notice^!, as I went alon^^, that the country on the banks of the Cayahoga river were improved; the road led by a high bank, from whence there was a fine view to the westward ; the bottoms on the river were extensive and fertile ; though I ob- served the seeds of disease in its slow, sluggish, winding course, choked up with a vast quantity of vegetable matter undergoing de- composition ; and at every settlement I passed, the pale, sickly visages of the inhabitants confirmed the remark. At last, Lake Erie appeared, with a beautiful, blue, placid surface, checkering through the trees. I reached Cleveland; but, without stopping to examine the city, I rode on to the bank, where, from an emi- nence about 70 feet high, 1 beheld the lake in all its glory. To the northward, no land was to be seen ; and to the east and west, the banks were high, and the scenery very picturesque; the view was really sublime. I was delighted with it ; and, full of the pleasing sensations which such a view was calculated to excite, I pursued my way to the tavern. But, O I what a contrast was there ! the people looked pale, sickly, and dejected. I learned that they had been afflicted with a very severe sickness this sea- son. It was periodical, they said: and generally fever and ague; but this season it had been worse than usual, and accompanied with some very severe cases of bilious fever. I found that this had proved a complete check upon the improvement of Cleveland, which, though dignified with the name of a cityi remained a pal- try village, containing a few houses only. OHIO. 45S CHAPTER LXXXIX. Ckvelandy — Banh of Lake Eric. There are certain striking circumstances which have a ten- dency to make a forcible and durable impression upon the mind; and it is the object of reason to correct them, and render them consistent with truth. From Vohiey's View of the Climate of the United States, I was led to believe that the banks of Lake Erie were unhealthy.* The first point I landed at was "infested with fevers," and I naturally concluded, that the account which repre- sents these to be general on its margin was correct. I met with a Mr. Strong at Cleveland, who was recently from Onondago, in the state of New York, and had travelled along the banks of the lake to the eastward. I communicated my impressions to him, when he assured me they were incorrect, for he had not met with any sickness on the lake before he reached this place. He in- formed nic that his object was to make a survey of part of the i^teof Ohio, with a view of finding a township of good land, in an agreeable situation, that he and some of his neighbours might retire to. On this account, he had paid particular attention to the banks of the lake, and found no sickness whatever ; but the land he considered as not the best, and resolved to extend his tour. He was waiting for a travelling companion, who was coming by water from Buffalo. Mr. Strong and I having the same object in view, thai of procuring authentic information, cemented a temporary friend- ship. I found him an intelligent, well-informed man, and got a good deal of local information from him. We took a walk to the lake shore, and went along to the outlet of the river. The river winds through rich bottoms by a very sluggish stream, and when within 40 or 50 yards of the lake, holds a west course of about 30O yards, and is divided all the way from the Take by a narrow sand-bank. The mouth of the river is cboaked up by a sund-bar, which dams up the water, and prevents it from having a fres passage. It stands in a deep pool, two or three miles long ; and * " In the western country, I should prefer to live, 100 yetrs hence, on the mar- iia of Lake £rie^ for than It will not, as n«w, be infitted with feTen."«*yolBe7% Vi«w. ' '. )'• •■■ .Hill*'! '* ■ If tf H'i' '1-4 I'll 45+ TnAVELS IS the wntcr bein^ stagnant, and contaminated liy dccnying vegeta- bles, afflicts the inhabitants on its margin with fever and ague. If putrid animal substances be added, they will be afliictcd with bilious fever. I am of opinion, that it must becontnininalcd with putrid animal substances when we visited it, lor the smell was almost insufferable ; and I can account for it no way so well, ns by supposing that the contaminated water had killed the fishc*. I have frequently observed water impregnated with decayed vege- table substances to have this effect, and it appeared to nic, that the water was sufficiently impregnatetl to have it here. Should this be the true solution, a radical cure may be su^>;gestfd. and it is intimately connected with another important siibieci that of making a good harbour at this place, and of complcli: ^ {lie communication by water between lake Eric and the Ohi(> livcr, by a canal. It is found that the Cavahojra river can be rendered uavl-'a- ble about 50 miles, to where there is a portage of between, oven and eight miles to the Tuscarawa river; and the state of Ohio, aware of the importance of this navigation, passed an act to pro- vide for its improvement by a lottery ; but a suflicicnt number of the tickets have not been sold ; the lottery is undrawn ; and con- sequently nothing has been done. Two of the most discouraging circumstances are the want of a harbour, and the sickness at the mouth of the river preventing a respectable settlement at Cleve- land. The inconvenience arising from the want of a harbour, will be sufficiently obvious by stating, that a brig which had been built in the river lay in it while I was there, and could not be got into the lake by reason of the sand-bar. The sickness I have noticed. The difficulty might, in my opinion, he obviated by cutting a channel for the river, directly through the sand-bar before no- ticed, at the foot of the high bank on which Cleveland stands, and then running a pier, forming the segment of a circle, along the west side of the new cut, so as to shield the river from the north-west winds, and prevent it from being choakcd up with sand. This would secure a free outlet to the river ; and the busi- ness could be completed by clearing out the brush and rubbish to the head of the navigation. Should these circumstances be attended to and succeed, the result would make Cleveland a very healthy, as it certainly is a very beautiful place, and confer a lasting advantage on OHIO. 455 tlic ioven ittinga re no- stands, along )m the with fc busi* Ibisli to Inilcdto r> »*'^ the state of Ohio. Tlic subject deserves legislative attention, and nieiita the particular notice of those gentlemen who are resi- dents, or proprietors of the lands, in the Connecticut reservation. The founders of Cleveland have, no doubt, been impressed with the belief that it would be u place of great importance, and it has been noticed that it is dignified with the title of a city, althouirh it contains only 16 dwelling-houses, '2 taverns, 2 stores, antl 1 kIiuuI. There is a little trade in salt, and sometimes a little in flour, pork, and whiskey ; but the whole is trifling, and will con- tinue so, until a harbour be formed. Should that be done, it may in time conmiand a pretty extensive trade. The country at present has no flour nor provisions to spare : they are all taken up by the emigrants who yearly pour into it. Wheat was 1 dollar per bushel, r^'e 75 cents, oats ^7^, potatatoes 50, flour 7 dollars per barrel, beef 3 dollars 50 cents per cwt., mutton and veal 5 to 6 cents per lb., pork 5 dollars per cwt., cheese (good Hudson) 10 cents per lb., butter 12 J, whiskey, 50 cents per gallon, cyder 7 dollars per barrel, salt I dollar '20 cents per cwt. Fish are very plenty in the lake, and white fish are put in barrels nt 10 dollars per barrel ; horses sell from 50 to 100 dollars, cows 20 to 25 dollars, sheep 2 dollars 50 cents. Boarding at a tavern is 3 dol- lars per week. October 1 9th. This morning I set out, accompanied by Mr. Strong, to visit Rocky river, distant about seven miles to the westward. We crossed the Cayahoga river by a flat. The land to the westward was level, and the road muddy, but the soil is pretty good, and is capable of being drained; having a gentle slope to the lake. The woods are mostly white oak, chesnut, and beech. About three miles from Cleveland, we passed a road which led to Columbia, from whence we saw some travellers, and they informed us that it had been very sickly this season. We saw no settlements all the way to Rocky river, but there is one at its outlet, on a high bank, the settlers on which were sickly. We found a general idea prevailing here, that the whole coun- try was sickly between these two rivers. Rocky river, like Cayahoga river, has high banks, and its mouth is shut up by the north-west winds on the lake, which cause the water to btagnate, and, until means be devised to obviate this inconvenience, the country, at its outlet, must be unheallhy. There were no settlements along its banks upwards, frout which vve M, I'' :,.4 456 TRAVELS IN coukl draw n conclusion ; but I should iniagime, from its appear- unco, that it would be more healthy than Cuyahoga river. A small vc'sel had put in hero, with a family, bound upward to Sandusky bay, to wait a fair wind; and one of the children was taken sick last night, but had got n little better tliis morning. On our return, we met two men on horseback, who told us they were scttleil five miles to the westward of Rocky river, and the coutJtry there was quite healthy and well settled. One of them was from Masuachusetts, and said he liked this country much better than his native Ktute, chiefly on account of the mild winters. The morning had been warm, rather sultry, indeed, with a south wind. On our return to Cleveland, I perceived all the signs of an approaching storm. About 3 o'clock, the wind shifted to the north-west, and a violent gale commenced, acconipanied with rain, thunder, and liglitning. The weather became very cohl fw about half an hour : but the storm spent its force ; the wind regain- ed its old position ; and the temperature of the air was restored to near its former state. It rained very heavily all the aftornooon and evening. October 20th.' On getting up this morning, I found the weather very cold. The wind was blowing a gale from the north-west, accompanied by rain, and occasionally sleet and snow. The lake exhibited all the appearances of the ocean in a storm, and the river was so dammal up, that it overflowed its banks. We were inform- ed that some of the trailers on the lake wouhl be in great jeopardy, particularly two vessels tbat were boimd for the port of Cleveland, and had been several times in the ofling, without being able to make a landing. It was supposed they would be driven back to BuiFulo, 200 miles distant, at the east end of the lake. A number of mechanics tailed at the tavern, on their way to Sandusiky bay, t'> which there hail been a great emigration the two last seasons. The iletention at Cleveland afforded me an opportunity of con- versing with a number of people well acquainted with the Conncc. ticut reservation, the lake, the banks of the lake to the westward, and Michigan territory. Before I resume tlie narrative of the journey, therefore, I shall devote a couple of chapters to these subjects. OHIO. 45t , '^' 'J ' CHAPTER XC ' ' - Connecticut Reserve, — Lake Erie, — General Information, .\ , The Connecticut Western Reservation is bounded by Lake Erie on the north ; by Stcubenviile and Canton Districts on the south : by Pennsylvania on the east ; and by a line drawn through the middle of Sandusky bay on the west. It is in length about 122 miles, Its^average breadth about 45 ; and its area is about 5349 square miles, or 3,423,360 acres. The face of the country is generally level, in some places nearly flat, and in others swelling out into gentle hills, of which the great- nt is the ridj^e that divides the waters of the lakes from those of the Mississippi. To the south of these is a gentle descent towards the Ohio, and in the tract to the north, which is by far the great- est, there is a similar descent towards Lake Erie. The soil is generally loam intermixed with clay, and sometimes with gravel. Very little of it can be called the best, but it is nearly all fit for cultivation, and it answers well for grazing ; it also raises grain, rotables, and fruit, in abundance. In the state books it stands, six per cent second rate, and 94 per cent, third rate land. There are considerable bed^ of freestone throughout the district, and coal and iron are also found, 'but in no great abundance; though several nron-works are in operation, and it is presumed that a plen- I tiiiil supply of both could be found if properly sought for. It is most beautifully watered on the north by the lake, and I there are a number of very useful rivers, of which those that emp- ty into tlie lake will be noticed hereafler. The principal stream that runs to the south is Beaver creek, a very important one, which drives a great quantity of machinery. The whole district I is well supplied with springs of good water, and there are several I springs, sulphur springs, and one of a bituminous substance, I that burns like oil. The principal timber is oak, chesnut, beech, maple, walnut, I hickory, sycamore, and in some places pine; but the last is not common here, and is hardly to be found any where else in the itate. The climate is temperate, and the seasons are nearly assimi- lated to others already noticed in the state ; but there is a circura- I stance which appears to me to render the country here not so heal- 58 ^ '^ '"'■ - :'r Lrj 458 THAVELS IN tliy ns tliat t'atiiicr 60utli. The prevailing winds are from the south pnrlicularly in sununer and fail, and tlicso, an tliey bluw over thr liigh lands of Tennessee, Kentucky, and Virginia, ore clear and clastic in all the southern part of the state, which iv hilly and utulu- lqtin, OHIO. 459 menced a short time after, ami have been going on pretty rapidly iincc the year 1799, by emigration from the New England states, principally from the state of Connecticut. 'Hie district is now divid- ed into six counties, and contains lG,0+2 inhabitants. The pwiplc have generally the frugal, imlustrious habits of the New Kngland ttates, and are civil in their manners, and moral in their diport- mcnt. Education is generally attended to, and they seem also to b« religious, although the thin state of ; ocioty does not admit of many diurches or clergy. As to civil jiu'isprudenee, the state ol Connec- ticut scctns to have given a tone to it in this district, which hti!) probably had considerable influence throughout the state, 'llic people of Connecticut have been accused of encouraging a litigious (lis|K) dusky river and the Great Miami ; and from Presciue Isle to Frciich creek, a brunch of tlie Allegany. The navigation downward is by the following stages : tu Grand river SO miles ; thcncu to Prcs(]uc Itle70; to Buffalo 1 00 ; to Fort Schlosscr '20 ; from tlicncc the land portage round the fulls of Niagara is 10 miles to Lewistown: then the navigation is continued to Lake Ontario 7 miles; through that lake to Kingston 1 70 ; to Montreal 1 70 ; to Quebec 1 70 ; and thence to the Gulf of St. Lawrence 320 miles; in all lOHH miles, in. which there is no interruption of any consequence, except the falls of Niagara; and it is impossible to view the subject from hence without a regret that thib is not removed by such a canal as would admit of sloop navigation. From the waters to the eastward there are also several portages ; particularly from Lake Ontario to the Hudson, through the medium of the Oneida lake. Wood creek, and the Mohawk river ; and from the St. Lawrence river to the Hudson, through the medium of Lake Chumplain. The following information regarding the banks of the lakes and rivers to the westward I collected chiefly at this place. Rocky river is navigable about 25 miles, and is one of the prettiest streams that falls into Lake Erie. The banks arc pretty fertile and healthy. From thence to Black river is 18 miles, and the land on the lake shore is pretty good ; but the road is muddy part of the way. Black river is navigable a little way, and its banks are pretty lertile, but unhealthy. Thence to Vermilion river the road is good, and this river is navigable; but its banks are unhealthy. At Vermilion ri- ver the road leaves the lake shore, and crosses Huron river, distant 13 miles, 3 miles from its outlet. Huron river is navigable a little vay; its banks are fertile, and are settling up; but the country is very unhealthy. From Huron river to Sandusky river, about 25 miles, the road is low and muddy in many places ; but the soil is good, and there are many fine meadows or prairies. Sandusky bay is the best harbour on the lake ; but the entrance is difficult. San- dusky river is navigable, and both its banks and those of the bay are settling up very fast ; but the country is unhealthy. From San- dusky river to Miami river is about 30 miles, and the road swampy nearly two-thirds of the way. On the Miami river there are fine prairies, with very high grass, extending a mile on each side. The country is uncommonly fertile, and the water is pure ond beautiful ; but the situation is rather unhealthy. It is, however, settling up 'i f 462 TRAVELS IX very fast with squatters. The Iiidiun cUim is not yet cxtiiif;uislir,820 square miles, or 22,284,000 acres. In the centre of this territory there is a high table land, from whence there is a descent in all directions. The soil is pretty fer- tile throughout the territory ; but it is only cultivated in the neigh- bourhood of the lakes and rivers. There aic no rivers of great im- portance in the territory. Grand river is the largest, and extends from Lake Michigan, nearly across the territory to lukc Eric. There arc numerous small streams. The country is said to Ix; heal- thy, and the climate more mild than its northern situation would seem to indicate. The winters are warmer at Detroit than at Philadelphia. This district appears to have been first settled by the French from Canada, and the bulk of the inhabitants are of French extrac- tion. Detroit is the principal town, and is a large thriving settle- ment, consisting of from 300 to 400 houses. There are also hand- some settlements of French people along the west end of lake Erie, particularly on Raisin river; but the territory is not increasing in population very fast. By the census of 1800, it contained 3206 in- habitants ; by last census, 4762. . ,; ., ^.^^ .^ , A considerable purchase of land has lately been made from the Indians, and four millions of acres in this district ore at tlie dispo- sal of the goverment of the United States. Leave Cleveland OHIO. 463 Tlio Kettlcmeiit of this territory will not, of course, advance rn- pdlvtil' tliosf nt'nr the ohi stiitCH be filled up; hut such ure its iiu- lunil lulvMitageH ft>* de, nnil the sahibrity of its climate, that it inuitii'iruct notice, um! idtimntely hnvenstution ufcunsidcrublu im- port iiicc in the u..i' Thin district, in • ummoii with the other ten itoricH, is under the ([Mxrial controul ofcon'rreM, who /runrnntee to the inhtibitants a re- publican form offfiv- rii.nt lit; the snfcty of their })crsonii and pro- |ierty; the free exercise of religion; the trial by iurj-; the liberty nfjpwch and of the press and the support of education. Slavery ii prohibited, and good faith is enjoined with the Indian tribes. Congress appoint a governor, a secretory, and three judges for the innnngenient of the public affiiirs, until the free mule inhabitants of full age amount to 5000, when they will be governed by a coun- cil of their own choice; and when the inhabitants amount to 60,000 they will be udniilted into the union as a state. i , J 1. r . • CHAPTEll XCII. Leave Cleveland^ — Grand river^ — Ashtabida river^ — Conneought river. A Mr. Bond, from Massachusetts, whom I met with at Cleve- land, agreed to be my travelling companion to Grand river. He hod to ride a little way off the road, but proposed to join me seven miles to the eastward at breakfast. I set out ut seven o'clock on the morning of the 21st of October, and travelled to the east- ward within a few miles of the lake. I stopped to breakfast at the house of a judge Don, seven miles from Cleveland. The road was pretty good all the way, and passed many creeks by bridges, some of them in a very shattered state. The soil was dry and rather sandy, but some of it appeared pretty good, though all third rate. I saw a settler by the way, who told me he was from Connecticut, that he had bought 1000 acres of land here, at two dollars per acre, which he meant to give to his sons and to go himself 14 miles below the falls of Ohio, where he owns 500 acres of land, which he bought at three dollars per acre. I le likes this country very well, and finds it healthy. Judge Don's if I ) , ■§ J". r 464 TRAVELS IH family were busy manufacturing homejipun, and isppeared to be quite healthy. My travelling companion did not come forward, and I jogged on alone. I travelled about seven miles through a pretty good soil and well watered, but the road deplorably bad, and I wag labouring through the mud, my horse almost up to the knees, when I was joined by Mr. Bond ; soon after which the road im- proved a little, and so continued for six miles to Chagrin river, where we btopped to feed our horses. Here we found a fine farm, and an orchard well stocked with fruit-trees. In the house the females were busy carding and spinning wool. The Yankees are said to be " full of notions," some of them good, some, perhaps, other- wise ; here they had a device for accelerating the motion of the spindle, which I found a very good notion, as it saved the young female who was spinning about 50 per cent, of the labour of the right hand. Chagrin river rises about 30 miles south from the lake, and is a rapid stream, abounding in mill seats, which are well improved by the erection of a great number of mills. It is sometimes very large. In a late flood it had carried away the bridge, and we had to cross it by a canoe, our horses swimming after us. From here to Grand river is 10 miles, and the road keeps with- in two or three miles of the lake, all the way. The soil is about the best of third rate, and the country pretty thickly settled. To- wards the river we travelled through a sandy plain, which the proprietors intended for a town or city ; but Nature said " no," and all the settlements are confined to the banks of the river, where there is a tavern, a store, an excellent saw and grist mill, a fulling mill, and a wool-carding machine. As we stopped here all night, I wnt into the store to make !«ome inquiries, and found the merchant a young Scotsman, late- ly from Utica. He !iad a pretty full store of goods, but he told me, except a few pounds of tea and sugar, he could sell very lit- tle, as the people made nearly all their own clothing. Grand river is a fine bold stream which rises in the interior of the district, not far from Warren, and runs by a circuitous rapid course to the lake. It drives a great deal of machinery, and has a sort of harbour at its outlet, but is not navigable. Its banks are healthy, and in some places fertile. I met here with a Mr, Baird, who was travelling to Buffalo Olio. 465 IS with- about . To- ,ch the "no," river, it mill, make 1, late- le told tcry lit* ^nor of IS rapid indhas Inks are Buffalo ^th A drove of caUl^* Some of them had strayed, and he came back in quest of them, leaving the drove to go on with his neighbour. I availed myself of his company with pleasure, particularly as he told me he would travel along the lake shore, which I had riot leen since I left Cleveland. October 26. The morning was clear and cold, with a pretty hard frost. We set out at 8 o'clock, and travelled along the west side of Grand river to tha lake shore, where we crossed by a good vooden bridge. On reaching the sands we had an elegant view of the banks of the lake, as far as the eye could reach. They are generally steep, in some places rocky, and rise from 30 to 70 feet above the water. The sand is firm and smooth, and constitutea a fine road, when passable; but when a northerly wind blows strong, the surf runs often to the very foot of the high banks. This day the water was smooth, and the weather clear and beautiful, which rendered our ride truly delightful. A little beyond Grand river we came to a clearing, and look- ing intc it, saw a handsome house about 500 yards distant, which my fellow-traveller told me was the seat of governor Hunting- don. From thence we travelled 14< miles without seeing a single house, when we came to a little clearing, and at a miserable look- ing plantation we stopped to feed our horses. Here we were tokl, that during the late storm a boy had been lost in the woods. He was about 9 years of age, and had gone out to gather nuts ; and wandering a considerable way from home, he was overtaken by the storm, during which he made many ineffectual attempts to return ; when, overpowered by fatigue, and benumbed with cold, be took shelter in a hollow tree, where he was found two days after, almost starved to death, and one of his thighs most dread- fully lacerated by the quills of a porcupine. He was alive when we were there, and hopes were entertained of his recovery. We resumed our journey along the banks of this beautiful lake, and passing many small runs, we arrived, towards night, at Ash- tabula river, the mouth of which was very deep, and a stranger could not have passed it in safety ; but my fellow-traveller, being well acquainted with it, took a circuitous course by the bar, which led us 100 or 150 yards into the lake, and we got over in safety, though our horses were at one time very near swimming. Th« limber on the banks of the lake was mostly white oak rM. i 'M 'i ^ ^, ; ill 466 TRAVELS IN ' and hickory, and the price of land, which is mostly good third rate, is about 1 to 9 dollars per acre. We rode up the east bank of Ashtabula river, about a quarter of a mrle, and stopped for the night at the house of squire Leet. A township court was held at the house of the squire, at which a good many of the inhabitants were assembled, which gave us an opportunity of seeing a little of the manners of the people in New Connecticnt, and the mode of dispensing justice. A young man had been convicted of injuring his neighbour's property, and the award of the court had not yet been complied with. He wass now accused of poisoning a horse. While the ex- amination was going on, be ran off, but was overtaken and brought back. The proceedings were conducted in a very ordeily man- ner, and after the examination of the witnesses there were pretty eloquent pleadings, on the one side by a young lawyer, recentfy from Connecticut ; on the other, by a brick-maker. The court was then cleared, and the squire called in the assistance of two of his neighbours, to make up the award. It was found that the charge of poisoning the horse was not proven, but the young man was ordered to be kept in custody until the former award should be satisfied. The greater part of the people remained at the house of the justice all night, and, as several of them had their wives and daughters along with them, we had a numerous company, and spent a very convivial evening. My fellow-traveller was acquaint- ed in the family, and they were acquainted with his vocal pow- ers. He sang an excellent song, but like other good singers, he was unwilling to make a display, and it was not till after a good deal of pressing from the ladies, that he would open the concert. He soon made ample amends for the delay, however. He sung a number of elegant songs, and having elevated the spirits of the company, we had songs and stories in abundance, till a pretty late hour. I was called upon, of course ; but, as hereto- fore, I could do nothing except in Scottish songs, and I was doubtful how they would answer on the banks of lake Erie. How- ever, I soon found that this was one of the most acceptable treats I could give the company. They were, in fact, enthusiastic ad- mirers of Scotttsh music ; Burns' songs were highly relished, and OHIO. 467 •neof the company anticipated mc by singing tny favourite song ofMuirland Willie.* October 23d. On getting up this morning, we found that the prisoner had again eluded the vigilance of justice, and fled. We got a very excellent breakfast, and starting at 8 o'clock, we * The estimation in which Scottish music islield, wherever it is "known, is aconTia< (ing proof of its intrinsic merit. It is full of sensibility, and finds its way directly 10 the chords of the human heart ; and it has spread the mantle of its sharms so ef fcctually over the Scottish language, that it has extended far and wide, and is now in such a state of conversation, that it will probably endure to die remotest ages. In- dtcd, to a native of Scotland, the language and tlie music are so associated togethei:^ that they cannot be separated. Bums the prince of poets, was so sensible of thi^ that in promising his assistance to Thomson's elegant collection, he says, "apropos! it you are for English verses, there is, on my part, an end of the matter. Whether in the simplicity of the ballad, or the pathos of the song, I can only hope to pleas* myself in being allowed at least a sprinkling of our native tongue." This sprinkling yiii freely allowed : a most transcendent beam of light was shed abroad upon Scottish musir and poetry ; and we are almost lost with wonder, at contemplating the as- tonishing power, yet sweet simplicity, of this wonderful poet, displayed in all the va* rious forms of the gay, the humorous, the patriotic, and tlie pathetic. The name of Burns must endure for ever ; and along with It will be transmitted to posterity such songs as Bonny Leslie, Duncan Gray, Scots wha hae wi' Wallace bled, and High* iind Mary. Burns, indeed, was quite an enthusiast on the subject of songs, in "which he could rtam in a flowery field, and one quite suited to his fancy ; and to this field Mr. Thom- son has done ample justice, by transplanting a number of the finest flowers into hi* work, which I consider as the flower-garden of Scottish Songs. Among others, he has adopted the very old, humorous historical song of Muirland Willie ; andthecir- funstance of meeting with it on the banks of lake Eric, was to mc so novel and un- expected, that I am induced to insert it at this place. It is one of the oldest Scot- tish songs extant, and presents a very f^ood picture of the primitive manners of th«f country. MUIRLANP WILLIE. HEARKEN, and I will tell ye how Voung muirland Willie came to woo. The' he could neither say nor do ; The truth I tell to ye. But ay he cried, Whate'er betide, Maggy I'll hae her to be my bride, ^Vith a fa] d« ral al, fal al de xal, fal al de ral al de ral i. I On his gray yad as he did ride, Wi' iirii and pistol by his side, H» pricked on wi' meikk pride, Wi' meikle mirth and glee, Out o'er yon muss out o'er yon moor, Till he came to her daddy's door. With a fal de ral, &c." " Guidraan," quo lie, " Iw yo within? I'm come ye'r dochter's love to win : I care na for makin meikle din. What answer gie ye me ?" *' Now, wooer," quo he, " wad ye liglit down, I'll gie ye my dochter's love to wiii, With a fal dt ral, &c. l\ i S" ^\ ■i ' in 468 tbaV^U in punucd our journey Along the banks of the luke ; but it was not m pleasant as yesterday. There was a considerable swelf from the north< west, and tlie noise of the waves was disagreeable, while in some places we had to ride a considerable way through the water. A num- ber of fishes had been blown ashore during the late gale, and we saw the tracks of a great number of bears, foxes, deer, and squirrels, a- long the sands. The land along the banks was nearly tne same as that we passed yesterday : but, in addition to the timber, we saw a "Now, wwier, sin* ye're lighted down, Whar d'ye win, or in what town ? I tliink ray dochter winna gloom On sic a lad as ye." The wooer lie stepped up the house, And wow bat he was wondrous crouae, With a fal de ral, &c. *' I hae three owsan in a pleugh, Twa gnde gaen yads, an' gear enough. My place they ca' it Cauld-enough, I scorn to tell a lie ; Besides I bad frae the great laird, A peat pat, and a lang kail yard. With a fal de ral, &c" The maid put on her kirtle brown. She was the brawest in a' the town, t wat on him she did na' gloom, But blinket bonnily. The lover he stepped up in haste. And grippether hard about the waist. With a fal de ral, &c. " Your docht^ wad na say me na, But to oursels she's left it a'. As we can gree between us twa: Say, wbat'U gie me wi' her ?" " Now, wooer," quo' he, " I hae namokk^ But sic's I hae ye'se get a pickle^ With a falderal,&c. " A kiln fu' o' com I'll gie to thee. Three soums o' sheep, twa gude milk k;c, Ye'se get the wedding dinner free, Troth I dow do nae mair." ** Content, quo' Willie, " a bargain be't, I'm far frae hame, raak haste, let's do't," With a falderal, &c Tlie brithal day it came to pass Wi' mony a blythesome lad and lass. But siccan a day there never was, Sic mirth was never seen. The winsome couple straked hands, Mess John tied up the marriage iMpda, With a fal de ral, &c. •• To win ye'r love, maid, I'm comt here. And ow bride's maiden? war na Cew, I'm young, and hae enough o* gear, Wi' tap-knots, lug-knots, a' in blue^ An' for mysel ye need na fear, Frae tap to tae they were bran new. Troth, try me whan ye like." And blinket bonnily. He teuk aff his bannet, and spat in iiis chow, Their toys and mutches war sae clean. And dighted his gob, and pried her mou, Tlicy glanced into our ladies cen^ With a fal de ral, &c. With a falde ral, &c. The maiden blushed, an' bing'd fu' law, She had na' will t* say him na, But to her daddy she left it a', As they twa, could agree. The lover he gae her the titlier kiss, Syne ran to her daddy, an* tald him this, With a fal de ral, &c. Sic hirdum, dlrdum, an' sic din, Wi' he o'er her and she o'er him, The minstrels they did never blin, Wi' meikle mirth and glee. An' ay they bobbit, an' aythcybcck'^ An' ay they cleek't, an* crosii't, an' 4^ With a falde ral, &c. OHIO. 469 Boocl deal of hemlock. The banks of the luke were entirely desti- tute of settlements, at which I was miich surprised ; but I learned that the proprietors had kept it up on speculation, expecting a very high price for it ofter the other parts of the country are settled. If this be the case, I fear they have miscalculated. The want of set- ttpmentx along the lake shore, which is the most promijnent part of the district, is calculated to impress settlers with an unfavourable idea of the country; and where the settlements are few, the road is bad, another disagreeable circumstance to settlers, and which has considerably retarded the settlement of the interior of the district. Indeed, I think it is a pity that the Connecticut reserve was made the subject o? i^^lividual speculation at all. The state of Connccti* cutcould have held it without embarrassment, and sold it out to set- tlers as there was a demand for it, thereby affording a superior ac- commodation to the public, and probably increasing the state funds by availing themselves of the rise that would have taken place in the course of settlement. The state, too, having much greater power than individuals, and having but one interest, could have adopted the most efficacious measures to render the country heqlthy, by improving tile outlets of rivers, draining swamps, &c. ; and they might have had the whole country, particularly the shores of the lake, in a very elegant state by this time. I cannot leave this subject without in- dulging in a speculation as to what the banks of this elegant lake might have been, and probably would have been, under judicious management. The Connecticut reserve stretches along the lake about 160 miles. It is all arable, and a good dry road could have been run along the shore the whole way. If the banks had been laid out in farms having a quarter of a mile in front, and one mile deep, they would have amounted to 600; and, allowing 10 persons to each, the lake shore alone would have contained 6000 inhabit- ants, being nearly equal to all the inhabitants in the district, with the exception of Trumbull county, no part of which is on the lake. About 15 miles from Ashtabula river, we crossed Conneogbt tU vcr, by a wooden bridge, close to the lake shore, where we observ- ed several settlements; and a mile and a half from thenjoe we en- tered into the state of P(Hinsylvania. * ' Conneoght river is a pretty little stream, rising near the head waters of French creek. It drives a number of mills, and there are wme irou-works upon it. Ashtabula river is a pretty large stream, which drives a number of mills, and has some pretty rich lands on its banks. ^ ■!.» J .1' .1 fr •« «► 470 OMO. , CHAPTER XCIII. STATE OF OHIO. M. HAVE already been so copious in my remarks on tiie respec- tive districts of this interesting state, that little now remains but to give in this chapter a general summary. It is bounded on the north by Luke Erie and Michigan territory; on the south and south-east by the Ohio river ; on the east by Penn- sylvania ; and on the west by the Indiana territory. It extends from north latitude 38° 30' to 39" 57', and from 3* 25' to 7° 37' west longitude. Its length is 228 miles, and its breadth 227 ; its square contents about 43,860 miles, or 28,070,400 acres. The face of the country has been noticed in the several districts, except to the north-west, where the Indian claim is not yet extin* guished ; and this is a large tract, occupying nearly one- fourth the whole state. Tliat part of it which borders upon the lakes ha been noticed. It appears to be generally level, or rather an undu lating country, abounding with plains, and the soil is mostly gc The Miami of the lakes runs through the northern part of it, anj appears to be a very interesting river, with rich banks. It rises i{ the Indiana territory a little beyond the state line, where there is portage of 8 miles only to the Wabash. It continues a north*ea course to Fort Defiance, where it is joined by the Au Glaise rive a considerable stream from the southward, which rises near the he of the Great Miami. From Fort Miami the river runs a nort| east course of 60 miles, when it falls into Lake Erie, through ami bay. The bay extends about 12 miles into the interior of t^ country ; is from half a mile to 3 miles wide, and deep enough vessels of 30 or 40 tons. The river is navigable for long boats xac than 100 miles. The Sandusky river and bay have been alrea noticed ; but it may be added here that the river rises in this dl trict, near the head of Whetstone river, about 60 mi'.!S from lake, and passes through a tract of excellent country, gliding w^ a rapid course over a bed of limestone so interrupted with re and ra|)ids as to render the navigation impracticable, except a ve little way from the bay. It may be said, in general, of the whole state, that it iias a good soil, a good climate, is well watered, and abound^ with excellent timber and mipcrals. 7 t-r- t • ■.V*,. = t^ ' • ImI*.^ * 1 r. liJi? n • I ..' 3^1 ^'i:; $ .I>l llllll >¥^^PBWl mS^m • ■ ■ ' \ V 1 ■d *, -'. ^ ^ ^-^.^ . ^j^?|CT r irj i jvji|^ni j fc i V _: A,i K- if-' ;! v*^* aw4 ,1 ,-^-ii'' v4 i i n* 'Hf f *•* >'t ,• A 5 J 'A .. **' .v^H*/-.* ... J- t /■ ■ ( ■ ».ii»i4 . : ?^-'.^ ■; J -^ K ; *-_ _ tir : .-__-.- ^ ^t <&': I I M y 1 5 jitiie way from tFTe "Bay. It may be said, in general, of the whole state, that it has a good soil, a good climate, is well watered, and abound^ with excellent timber and miperals. Having tlicse f. ittcntion, and be< already noticed, I it contained only ritorial furni of g( number of inhabit totlie union as a > iohabitants; and going on, that it ' and, ultimately, it habitants than anj As the settlemei economy, I shall li and counties, with on 10. 471 Having these grcBt natural advantngcv, it soon attrnctect general ittcntion, nnd be^ran tu settle under certain grants, which have been already noticed, IVom 20 to 25 years ago ; but nt the census of 1800 it contained only 'I5y365 inliabitants, and remained under the ter- ritoriiil form of government until the year 1802, when having the number of inhabit:ints re(]uired by law, 60,000, it was admitted in- to the union as a utate. It now contains, by the last census, 2.^0,760 inhabitants ; and such is the rapid steps by which the population ia going on, that it will probably contain 600,000 in 10 yeurs hence; and, ultimately, it will probably support a greater number of in- habitants than ony of the old states, New York, perhaps, excepted. As the settlement of this state is a remarkable feature in political economy, I shall here insert a statistical table of the several districtj mil counties, with the population by the last census. r H'.Lf "■ ' il 'rM\ I'O^ ; ''^^ li . (,.»'.- •ri Hi 472 omo. STATISTICAL TABLE OF THE STATE OF OHIO. »%»%»%%%«%%»»%»»»»%»«»« Those counties whore the populgtion is not Blled up, have been laid of since the censuM was taken. Those counties marked **• are principally situated in the district oppo. ■ site to them, but part is in another district. PerMnsof DiktricU. Courttiai. Maiei. FvmalM. colour not Indians. Tatal. I Connecticut IUmotts AthUbuia Geauga l.'!64 1350 3 son j . Cayalioga Huron 7t)8 64T 14 14.'!9 ' i 1 Portage 1C12 1376 7 CU95 ' Trumbull 450O 4026 S5 StiTl Canton Kichland Wayne Steub«nville Columbiana 5529 5250 99 10«7« i •Stark 1462 1265 7 'i734 . Jetrerson 8778 8358 124 . 17'260 ' Marietta * Uelraont 5721 5288. 88 11097 ; ZanviiviUo •Tuscarawa Cor.hocton 1582 1457 6 3045 •Guernsey lAlC 1428 7 3051 i Muskmgum 5305 4656 75 loov; •Washington 311 2 2831 48 5f»91 Ohio Company •Athens 1463 1324 4 2791 1 •Gallia i'175 1991 15 4181 I •Knox 1145 99Q 12 2129 ! • Delaware 1033 923 44 2000 ; •Licking 204B 1796 8 3852 ♦Franklin 1796 1647 43 3486 , Fairfield 5928 5398 3.5 11361 1 • Pickaway 3726 3329 69 7124 •KOM 7950 7194 370 15514 i •Scioto 1792 1578 29 3399 ' Virginia Military Madison 876 714 13 1603 Fayette 974 876 4 1854 • Greene 3039 2795 36 5870 , Clinton 1316 1349 9 2674 ; •Warren 5152 4684 89 9925 1 Highland 3044 2596 126 5766 , Adamn 4825 4588 21 9436 ! 1 Clermont 4981 4947 37 99C5 Sj'nmieh' Purchase •Hamilton 7886 7214 158 15258 Cincinnati •('hampaign 3302 2936 65 6305 ' Minna Clark 2047 1873 SI 3^41 , 1 >Iontgomery ^031 3637 54 7722 I'reble 1714 1565 25 3304 •Butler 5745 5326 79 11150 119R57 109204 1899 230760 Of these thort OHIO. 473 Of these there nre, Under 10 years of ngf, Of 10, nnJ uiulcr iti, Of 16, and under '26, Of 20, and under 45, Of 45, and upwnrdH, Males. Females. \(i/i2^ 44,192 \U,\li) 1^,86!) 20, 1 H9 19,990 2'-', 761 I9,4.'i6 IJjWG.'J 8,717 119,657 109,204 nno on. Bridges are numerous, but they are mostly temporary. Canals are not wanted, except at some few portages already noticed ; and they will, no doubt, be cut as soon as there is suflicient intercourse to supi^ort them. The great business of the state is agriculture, aided by such branches of mechanism as tend to support that important brunch, and such manufacturer as are calculated for the state of society ; together with teachers, doctors, and lawyers, of which the former are most wanted, and have the best chance of success. They will require, however, to be men of plain good sense, having a stock of useful information, and a happy facility for communicating it to the rising generation. Ornamental education, and especially that tinselled kind of it which may be called the ghost of orna- laent, is not wanted here, for the people are plain practical folks, iwving a turn for examination, and for looking into the inside of things; and it is only such as appear to confer some substantial ad- vantage, that they will be willing to pay for. In suppv)rt of edu- cation, there is a more ample fund provided than in any other country in the world; consisting of no loss than one-thirty-sixlh jl ■ «.!''<.• I it '. -*/.• • liii 476 OHIO. part of the whole lands in the state. These school-lands arc dif- ferently situated in different districts. In the United Slates army- lands and Connecticut reserve, the school-Jands are interspersed throughout the districts in tracts of from 4000 to 16,000 acres, so as to form one- thirty -sixth of the whole. In the Virginia military lands one-thirty-hixth part of the district is to be selected by the legislature of the state, after the Virginia land-warrants are satis- fied. In all the other districts one-thirty-sixlh part of each townslii|) is appropriated, being uniformly the sixteenth section, which lies near the centre. Of all the arrangements, I consider this the best, because it places the public property of the township under the immediate direction and management of those interested in it; so that more benefit will doubtless result from it, than any ot' the others. In process of time, the effect of these appropriations will be salutary beyond what we can at present, perhaps, form an idea of. Let this simple arrangement be contrasted with what some of the cnlighted governments of Europe have done to en- lighten the human mind, and then say whether the people are not fit to govern themselves, or whether " they are their own worst friends," when they attempt it. The whole of this territory belonged to the United States, and, during the territorial government, they made several important regulations which deserve to be noticed. First, the legislature were prohibited by the United States from interfering with the disj)osal of the soil, or any regulations that congress might find necessary to make for securing the titles to the purchasers. Se- cond, no tax could be imposed on lands, the property of the United States ; and in no case could non-resident proprietors be taxed higher than residents. Third, the navigable waters lead- ing into the Mississippi and St, Laurence, and the carrying-places between them, are to be commcn highways, and for ever free, as well to tiie inhabitants of the said territory as to the inhabitants oi the United States, and those of any other states that may be ad- mitted into tlie conl'edcracy, without any tax. These several laws were continued in Ibrcc, and at passing the act for admitting the state of Ohio into the union, it was agreed to grant to the state the section No. 16, in each township, for school-lands; the six mile s(}uare reservation, including the salt-springs on the Scioto; the salt-springs near the Muskingum, and those in the military tract, with the sections that include the same; and the aforesaid OHIO. 477 fund for making and supporting roads ; it being understood that all purchases of land from the United States, should be exempt- ed from the state tax till five years after the purchase is made. It was also enacted by congress, that there ishould neither be slavery nor involuntary servitude in the territory, and the lands being sold, and the country originally settled under that regula- tion, it is supposed by some that the state legislature could not now pass a law to admit slaves. Others think they have full power. But the discussion of this point is of no consequence, as ilavery is expressly prohibited by the state constitution ; and, were the case submitted to the people, I have no doubt but more than nine-tenths of them would be against slavery. 1 have already noticed that the genius of the people may, in part, be inferred from the state constitutions. If so, the people of this state have clear heads, and a correct view of political princi- ples. The constitution of the state of Ohio is probably the most complete state constitution in the union ; but it is to be remarked that the framers of it had the experience of 16 states before them. Like the constitutions of the most of the slates, it is founded upon jeneral principles, and declares that All men are born equally free and independent. All men have a natural right to worship God according to the dictates of their own consciences. Trial by jury shall be inviolate. Printing-presses shall be free. Unwarrantable searches shall not be permitted. Unnecessary rigor shall not be exercised. Excessive bail shall not be required in bailable offences. All penalties shall be proportioned to the nature of the offence. The liberty of the people to assemble together to consult for the public good, and to bear arms in their own defence, is guaran- teed. Hereditary emoluments, privileges, and honours, are for ever prohibited. Slavery is for ever prohibited, and it is declared that " no in- denture of any negro or mulatto hereafter made and executed out of the state, or, if made in the state, where the term of ser- vice exceals one year, shall be of the least validity, except those given ill the case of apprenticeship.'* M J ^'■IflH 478 Ohio. it Religion, morality, and knowledge, being essentially neces- sary to the good government and happiness of mankind, school* and the means of instruction shall for ever be encouraged by leiris- lative provision, not inconsistent with the rights of conscience." The government is legislative and executive, with power to provide for, and regulate the judicial and military authority. The le^^isluture consists of two branches ; a senate and house of | representatives. The representatives must not exceed 72 members and arc chosen annually by the people, in which every free white male who is a citizen of the United States, and has resided a year in the state, and paid taxes, shall have a vote. The representatives I must have the same qualifications, and be 25 years of age. The senators are chosen biennially by qualified voters for repre- sentatives, and one half vacate their seats every year. They shall never be less than one-third nor more than one-half of the repre- sentatives. They must, besides the other qualifications of the re- presentatives, have resided two years in the country, and be 30 years I of age. The governor is chosen by the electors for the members of the! general assembly for the term of two years, and is not eligible furl more than six years in eight. He must be 30 years of age, and have! been a citizen of the United States 12 years, and an inhabitant ofj the state four years. The judicial power is vested in a supreme court, in courts oti common pleas for each county, in justices of the peace, and sucho-j ther courts as the legislature may appoint. The .supreme court consists of three judges, appointed by the as-j sembly, who hold their offices for seven years. The courts of common pleas consist of a president and associate judges, chosen in like manner, and for the like term. A justice court is held in c.ich township, and the justices are e-j lected by the hihabitants of the respective towns; and continue in office three years. The powers and duties of the justices are fronJ time to time regulated and defined by law. I may notice thatthiJ last regulation is a peculiar feature in the localjurisprudenceoitliej state, and goes far to do away all petty litigation. The justices originally had cognizance of all cases where the sural did not exceed 30 dollars. By an act of the legislature their po«j ers were extended to cases not exceeding 50 dollars ; which gavj rise to a very singular transaction in the state. The judges ot m jjoreme court "ge as it may appej rnio. 479 jupreme court refused to put the Inw in execution, allcginj;; that it was contrary to the constitution of the United States. They were impeached by the house of representatives ; but it requires two- thirds of the senate to convict, and they were saved by a very nar- row majority. The legislature, to mark their disapprobation of the conduct of the judges, raised the sum from 50 to 70 dollars ; and when the seven years for which they were appointed expired, they were not re-elected. The justice courts have now cognizance of all cases where the sums do not exceed 70 dollars. hi the military department the captains and subalterns of the mi- litia are chosen by those persons in their res})ective company dis- tricts subject to military duty. Majors are elected by captains and subalterns. Colonels are elected by majors, captains and subalterns. Brigadier-generals are elected by the commissioned officers of their respective brigades. Major-generals and quarter-master generals are appointed by jomt ballot of both houses of the legislature. I^e Governor is the commander in chief, and appoints the adjutants. It is proper to remaric that the legislature of this state lias been careful to enact several laws to curb irregularities, and to enforce the practice ot virtue ; and they have had a very salutary effect. In travelling through the state I noticed the peaceable deportment of the inhabitants, and was somewhat surprised that I heard no swearing. It is prohibited by law, at the rate of a dollar for an oath ; and the law is strictly put in execution. Illegitimate commerce be- tween the sexes is also prohibited, under pretty heavy penalties ; and a law has lately been enacted to enforce the marriage covenant, iu cases where people are disposed to plead adisannullmcnt on the score of religion.* Upon the whole, the state of Ohio {-roujiscs fair to become one of the brightest in the union, in point of internal prosperity and a virtuous population, • A singular religious sect made its appearance in this country some time ago, calk-J Shakers. One of their regvlations is Uiat none of their mcuihers are to many ; and those who are married when they join them, they consider free from tlie marriage obli- g>t>on. They are reputed to be a sober industrious people, in general ; but the absurd- ity of this regulation is self-evident. Were such a practice to become general, tla- f,!obe "ttuldsoonbe depopulated. But the ties of affection between the sexes are too duply **ted in our nature by the God of Nature to be rooted out by this or any other sect, otiange as it may appear, however, a number of people have deserted their families ta '5 ■ •■; :i 480 TRAVELS IV CHAPTER XCIV. Pennsj/lvania, — Eric. The banks of tlic lake in Pennsylvania exhibited nearly the same appearance as those to the westward ; but we noticed that many settlemrnts had been made, and the country was generally more c- levated. The wintl was from the north-west, and the effect was ve- ry different from thnt of north-west winds to the east of the moun- tains. It was here cloutly and mild. We continued along the shore without any interruption, for se- ven miles, when we came to Elk creek ; and here we were obliccd to ride a considerable way through the woods to get across the creek by a bridge. In the course of our ride we saw a number of settlements that had been abandoned, and were informed that it was in consequence of a difficidty about the land-titles, which had operated very much against the settlement of this part of Pennsyl- vania. We travelled along the lake shore, eight miles, to Walnut creek, where we stopped to feed our horses at some good mills, and found the country liere healthy and agreeable. At Walnut creek we left the lake shore, and travelled through a pretty good soil, the woods very thick, and abounding with large trees of hemlock. Towards dark we reached a fine turnpike road, leading from Erie to French creek, and travelling along it two miles, we reached Erie, 11 miles from Walnut creek, at 7 o'clock. Erie is situated in latitude 42" 8', on a high bank on the south side of the lake, opposite to a small peninsula which extends a con- siderable way into the lake, and forms a natural basin for a har- bour ; but the entrance is choaked up by a sand-bar, and vessels have to lie on the outside exposed to the weather. The town is regularly laid out, in a beautiful and healthy situa- tion, but it is not increasing. It contains about 76 houses, mostly built of wood, but seven;! of them are uninhabited. Thenumvor of inhabitants is ^95. The public buildings to, u court-house, join them ; and as it was requisite to put all their money into the common stock of the society, tlieir families were left destitute, and became a burden upon the public. Tie •tate verj- judiciously enacted that when any man joins such a society, the wife shnllbe entitled to all the property ; and should that not be sufficient to maintain the family, he is bound to find security that they will be proTidedfar without becoming a burden on the state. PENNSYLVANIA. 481 jail, and school. Tiierc are three taverns, and three stores ; and a number of tradesmen are employed ; but the place appears dull. Until of late, the town was supported by the salt trade; but that has very much declined, in consequence of so much of the lowci country being now supplied from the Kanhaway works. The soil is pfetty good in the neighbourhood of the town, but the difficulty about land-titles has extended to this place, and greatly retarded the progress of settlement, and the prosperity of the country. Provisions are not so plenty nor so cheap as in some ether places of the western country ; flour is 6 dollars per barrel, beef 4 dollars 50 cents per cwt., bacon 12,1 cents per pound ; fiih are very plenty, and of an excellent quality. The seasons here are rather cold. Winter commences about the 1st of December, and continues to the 1st of April, somclinus in- tensely cold, with a continued frost for three months. The »j)ring, summer, and fall are very pleasant. Land in the neighbourhood, where the title is good, sells for from 5 to 10 dollars; labourers have 75 cents per day, carpenters 1 dollar, masons 1 dollar 50 cents. There is no opening for manu- factures except carding machines. The country is well adapted for grazing ; sheep thrive very well, and potatoes are the best I have seen in America. This place is about 100 miles from Pittsburg, and there is a wa- ter conveyance all the way except 14* miles, over which there is now an excellent turnpike road ; and it has been in contemplation to dig a canal. It is quite practicable, at least from the town of Erie to French creek; but the bank of the lake is too high and steep to allow a hope to be encouraged that the waters can be con- nected for a long time to come. It is remarked by the inhabitants here, that the lake has fallen three feet since the first settK^ment of Erie, and there is not now more than six fert water on the bar. It is presumed that 2000 dollars would make it sufficiently deep to ad- mit the traders on the lake. Mr. Baird, my agreeable travelling companion, came up with his drove of cattle here, and we parted. He told me that the peo- ple along the banks of the lake would always have a fine market tor their surplus stock to the eastward, and that there would be plenty of people always ready to buy. The price at present is 25 oollars for cattlt, measuring six feet round the belly, and 1 dollar »s added or deducted for every inch over or under that measure. f)l it,- »■■ i ■ Hi!' 'f!! ( ''i t 483 THAVELS IN CHAPTER XCV. Leave Ericj — Cataragus arekf — Biffalo. t^IIlLE I remained at Eric, a vessel came in from Buffalo, which was to sail aj^ain in a short time. I had some thoughts of taking a passage by it ; but reflecting on the uncertainty of water conveyance, I gave up the idea, and d&termined to go on lantl. 1 accordingly set out at 12 o'clock on the 25th of October, and travelled 4^ miles, when I passed a pretty clear stream running over a stratum of slate. Near this place 1 noticed the dreadful ef. fects produced by a tornado. A piece of ground about half a mile broad, and of a length that I could not perceive, had its timber, some of it very large, completely blown down, and appeared like a large avenue. I passed over a number of pretty little streams, the water generally clear, with a slate bottom, and stopped 14 miles from Erie to feed my horse. Here I met with an honest Dutch farmer, who told me he had been a soldier in the American war, and was now settled near Chataughque lake, in a fertile coun- try, and liked the place very well. We travelled on together, and four miles from the tavern, at Twenty Mile creek, which we passed after descending a very deep valley, we met seven waggons loaded with new settlers for the wes- tern country. Each waggon contained about eight or ten persons. We spoke to one of the families, who told us they were from Low- cr Canada. Ten miles beyond this we reached a Mrs. Perry's, near Chataughque creek, where we stopped all night. October 2GtlK This* morning was clear, cold, and beautiful, with a pretty hard frost. I met with two gentlemen of the name of Strong from the Connecticut Reserve, bound for Connecticut, and I availed myself of their company. There is no great variety in this district : the face of the country is nearly level ; the land generally pretty good ;. and the woods con- sist of beech, elm, walnut, chesnut, &c. interspersed with some little hemlock and pine, all the way on from Erie. We travelled 1 3 miles to breakfast, part of the way by an execrable road. Four miles from thence we passed through Canadaway, where there is a fine creek, and some good mills, and it seems a thriving set- tlement. Beyond this the road is a little mere dry, but by no means NEW YORK. 483 good, for 1 1 miles, where we passed two very romantic little streams wliith formed a junction a little below. From thence we passed a pretty hij^h ridj^e, and came to the banks of the lake, where we could sec the trees in Upper Canada : we then travelled three miles alonjj; the lake shore, when we arrived at Cataragiis, where we stopped for the night. The inhabitants in all this district arc mostly from the New England states, and are very civil and discreet. We were told by the laiuUord, that a vast number of i)coj)le travel through this place annually to the westward. The greatest number are from Connecticut, the next greatest from Massachu- sets, next from New Hampshire, and a considerable immbcr from Rhode Island, Vermont, and Lower Canada. Cataragus creek is a considerable stream, rising about /JO miles to the eastward. It has some good situations for mill-seats, and fertile banks, particularly near the lake, on which there is an In- dian reservation of about 50 s(juarc miles, containing a settlement of between 500 and GOO Indians. They are very {)eaceable and well disposed. October 27th. We started at six oclock ; the morning was dear, and rather cold. We crossed at a ferry, and travelled through a rich bottom, part of the Indian reservation, about half a mile, when we reached the lake shore. There was a considerable swell from the north-west, which occasioned a rough sMrf, and wc were soon stopped at a rocky precipice, against which the waves dashed with great violence. We clambered up the hill, and tra- velled round it through the woods by a very bad road. Here vrc met a travelling family who had been obliged to lie out all night ; I one of the children had been taken sick, and the poor mother, a very good-looking woman, appeared very dejected; but she brightened up a little when we told them they were only a little way from a tavern. We could hardly refrain IVom tears of sym- pathy, and Mr. Strong said it brought the circumstance of his own emigration fresh to his mind, during which " the old woman shed nianv a salt tear." Having wished this family a good journey, we travelled on a lit- tle way, when we came to a second set of rocks, which we also pas- sed by a very bad road through the woods, and j^assing again to the beach, we came to a third series, along the foot of which we travelled nearly three quarters of a mile. These rocks are elevated ■A i '■' 484 TRAVELS IN nbovc the luke from .'50 to GO feet, arc perpendicular, and general- ly composed of soft blue slate. When the lake is calm, or when the wind blows from the cast or south, the beach is dry at the foot, and travelling, though a little rough, is tolerably good ; but wlien the lake is roa<^h, and a wind irom the north or west, it is impos- sible sometimes to pass along the shore, and attended with daiifjer to attempt it. We were told that a waggon, in attempting to pass some time before, had been upset, and a young wonian drowned. At this place, and a considerable way along the shore, there is a singular stratum of blue slate, over which the road passes, smooth under our feet, and disposed in layers of about 2^ or 3 feet broad, that appear as regularly joined as a pavement done by art. These run out into the lake nearly at right angles with the shore, and at an angle of descent probably not exceeding one degree. They appear- ed in the water as far asl could perceive, and the v icw was really admirable. Passing these, we travelled a little way over sands, when we came to a small creek, and my companions, being afraid of quick- sands at its outlet, travelled some way round by a bridge. As I eaw nothing to fear, I kept the road by the lake shore; but I soon found myself in an unlooked-for dilemma. I came to another pre- cipice: my companions had taken the lond through the woods; the waves beat violently against the rocks ; and I stood for some time undetermined whether I should attempt to pass pr not. I went a little way into the lake, and observed that the passage was of no great breadth, and that it was occasionally nearly dry at the foot of the rocks. I was induced to venture; but I had proceeded only a little way when a rolling wave nearly dashed my horse a- gainst the rocks, and almost carried it off* its feet by its return. I was now in equal danger whether I went on or turned back. I pushed on, but the lake became more deep, and the bottom very rougli. Another wave struck my horse, and it tumbled over a stone at the same moment, and had almost foundered. However, 1 was now past the worst, and in a little got safely ronnd the rock, where my companions were anxiously waiting for me. It appears, the great danger in these passes is from the horse foundering over the stony bottom. Beyond this we travellecl over a broad sandy beach, where ve had a fiiie view of the lake; the land was flat, and the soil sandy; the principal timber being scrubby oak, hemlock, pine, &c. At some places, however, the country was more elevated, with vast KEW YORK. 485 misses of limestone, and towards noon we came to a body of good land, and stopped at a beautiful plantation on the banks of tlio lake to breakfast. I was told that tlic family were from Vermont, jind had been here five years. They had a farm of 300 ocre«, of which they had cleared 120. Here is one of the most beautiful prospects that I saw on all the lake. From hence wc travelled five miles along the beach ; the banks being high, and pretty fertile. Mere we passed u creek, in the mouth of which lay a little crazy boat, which was bound up the lake, but could not proceed, and the materials of a moving family were scattered abroad upon the beach. After passing this creek the sandy beach is broad ; the land on the shore of the hike is low, and we were told that an extensive swamp stretched a considerable way to the eastward. As we approoched the Buffalo creek, we left ike lake shore, and passed over a very fertile tract of level country. At the creek the people were building a bridge, but not being pas- wble, we crossed by a boat, and travelling along a very fertile bank, about a mile, we reached Buffalo, at five o'clock in the even- ing. Here 1 stopped, and my agreeable travelling companions continued their journey to the eastward. Buffalo is handsomely situated at the east end of lake Erie, where it commands a beautiful view of the lake, of Upper Canii- da, and fort Erie, and a great distance to the southward, which is terminated by an elevated lofty country. The scite of the town ex- tends quite to the lake shore, but it is principally built on an emi- nence of about 30 feet, a little distance ; and to the south along the creek are handsome rich bottom lots, which are at present a little marshy, but will, when drained, be most valuable appendages to this very beautiful place. Buffalo was laid out for a town about five years ago, and is re- gularly disposed in streets and lots. The lots are from 60 to 100 leet deep, and sell from 25 to 50 dollars; and there are out-lots of 5 and 10 acres, worth at present from 10 to 25 dollars per acre. The population was by last census 365, it is now computed at 500,. and is rapidly increasing. The buildings are mostly of wood, painted white, but there is a. number of good brick houses, and some few of stone. There are tour taverns, eight stores, two schools ; and a weekly newspaper has been recently established. The town is as yet too new for the introduction of any manufactures, except those of the domestic •find. The greater part of the people are farmers and mechanics. m 'J Nl M hm-''' 4SC} TRAVELS IN The settlers hero arc most from the New Englniul stntcs, but the town beinr; on the ^rcat thoroughfare to the wtslcrn coun- try, there is a general mixture. A consitleruhic trade is constantly kept up by the influx and reflux of straiij.'cr«., and such articles as are necessary for their acct)nunodution are dear. Ilonse-rent is from 2 to 'iO dollars per week ; wood is 1 iluU hir })cr cord, flour is 7 dollars per barrel, pork 6 dollars per cwt., beef i dollars, porter fi dollars per dozen. Fish are very piciitv and cheap. Boarding is about 3 dollars per week. The situation is quite healthy, and the seasons are nuicli more mild and open than might be cxpeeted in that northern latitude; the eflects of the southerly winds already noted are very aj)j)areiit I) ere. IJufTalo creek rises by three considerable branches, about 40 miles to the eastwai'd, and after watering an extensive tract of cmiii. try, they unite about six miles from the town, where there is a con- siderable Indian village, and flow into the lake by a slow ciuriiu. It is navigable about four miles, and it is proposed to run a pier iiw to the lake at its outlet, and form a harbour, which wouldbcamoit important advantage to this part of the country. U()on the whole, I think this is likely to become a great settle- ment. it already commands un inmiense navigation, and itR in- crease is guaranteed by the opening t)f loads in all directions, a great many of which must centre here. Already there is a turnpike road to New York, having tfie accommodation of u stage three times a week ; there is a good road to the falls of Niagara, and thence through a considerable part of Upper Canada ; a turnpike road is projected to Philadelphia ; and from the increase of popu- lation to the westward, a good road must soon be made to Eric, and thence in different directions through the western country. There is a considerable settlement of Indians in the neighbour- hood of this place, and Buflalo is a sort of head- quarters for trans- acting Indian business; in consequence of which frequent councils arc held here, which have produced several very brilliant specimens of Indian intellect and eloquence.* • Mr. Ward, iny fellow-traveller on the Ohio, was here in the preceding month of Mar, and attended a council, at which lie hoard two speeches delivered by one of the Indians called Red Jacket, with such animation of gesture and force of language as perfectly as- tonished him. 1 have since got a translation of these extraordinary speeches, attested by • particular friciKl, and hero present them to the public as genuine cfTusion* of natural eloquence. i I NEW YOnK. 4S7 To ctpUin thom, il ii naccsitary to sintc thni tin* Iiulians in tliisdiatrivt, \*lifn tlicy vilil thfi/l»re-wmption rifjlit, iiannly, tlio rifilit to pin- flusc from the Indiikns »» »» ito\A by the I lulluiui company to certain f-L-ntU-nicn in Now Vork, mid ihcy wnl* M IlichanJwn as nj/i'nt to i-ndinvour to in:iki' .1 l)arj^aii( witli tin' Indiant. The miniiion 1 . nocicty of \cw York appointcil a Mr. Aic \aii(ii'r on u mission to the .Scnecs Indians to endeavour to convert thorn to Clirisliniiify ; and tlii-so Imo g«-n- demon an^> stories ; l)ut to come to it in » fi'v» wards. We, therefore, shall not repeat your talk, which is frt^-h in our minds. Wi- tiwe well considered it, and the advantages and disadvantij^cs of your DU'ers. We ri-- iliicst your attention to our answer, which is not from the speaker aluno. but from all tlio sichvHiHand chiefs now around our council (Ire. " Brnthir ! We know that great men, as well as great nations, havinj^ dillVrent inte- mtii, have different minds, and do not see the same subject in the same light — but ue lope (lur answer will be agreeable to you and to your etiiployers. "Ilrothcr; Your application for the purchase of our lands, is to our minds very ex- traordinary. It has been made in a crooked manner ; you have not walked in the straight pith puinted out by the great council of your nation. Y'ou ha\e no writings from our great father the president. " Brother ; In making up otir minds, we have looked back, and remembered how tho Yorkers purchased our lands in former times. They bought them piece after piece for I little money paid to a few men in ournatien, and not to all our brethren; our plant- ing and hunting grounds have become very small, and if we sell these, we know not w here tuspreail our blankets. " Brnther ,• You tell us your employers have purchased of the council of Yorkers n right to buy our lands. We do not understand how this can be ; the lands do not beloug to the Yorkers; they are ours, and were given to us by the Great .Spirit. " Brother ; We think it strange that you should jump over the lands of otir brethren in tlie east, to come to our council fire so far off, to get our lands. When we sold our Ijndsin the east to the white people, we determined never to sell those we kejif, which are as small as we can live comfort4d)ly on. "BrothiT; Y'ou want us to travel with you, and look for other !;i'iil-;. If ve should til our lands and move off" into a distant country, towards tho seitinjj sun — we should W looked upon in the country to which we go as foreigners and strangeis, and be ilesjjiscd livlhcred as well as the white men, and we should soon be surrounded by the wliite men, who will there also kill our game, come upon our lands and try to j;jt tlicm 1 from us. '• Brnihvr : We are determined not to sell otir lands bit to continijc on tlu^m. M\« lie them ; they are fruitful, and produce us corn in abundance, for the sw^'inrt of I'-if *omen and children, and grass and herbs for our cattle. 488 TRAVKLS IN " lirollur I At llic treaties la-Id (or tlie piirclmsc of our lands, tlic wliita men, with ftwect voii'CH aiul smiling t'liccs, told us they IovlhI us, and that tlicy would not rlicat \\\ iiut that Uie king's cliildron on the other side of the lake would cheat us. When wi-iro on the other side of the lake, the king's diildren tell us your people will ihcut l^; but witliMveet voices and smiling faces assure us of their love, and that they will not diiaf lis. 'I'bese tilings puzzle our heiuls and we believe tliatthe Indians must take tare of themselves, and not trust cither in yuur people or in the king's children. " lirolhcr; At a late council we requested our agents to tell you that wc would not sell our lands, and wc think you have not spoken to our agents, or they wauld have informetl you sa, and we should nut have met you at oiir council fire at this time. "Brother; The white people buy and sell false rij^hts to our lands. Your «mploycn have, you say, paid a great price fur oieir right: they must have plenty of money, to «pend it in buying false rights to lands lielonging to Indians. The loss of it will nnt hurt tliem, but our lands arc of great value to us, and wc wish you to go back with your talk to your employers, and to tell them and the Yorkers, that tliey have no right to buy and sell false rights to our laiidv. " Urot/icr : We hope you clearly understand the words we have have spoken. Thh ?s all we have to say." lu answer to IVIr. Alexander, Red Jacket addressed himself thus : "Brother; We listened to the talk you delivered tons from the council of black •oats* in New York. Wc have fully considered your talk, and the offers you lia\e miule us ; we perfectly understand them, and we return an answer, which wc wisli you also to understand. In making up our minds we hare looked back, and remeni- bered what has been done in our days, and what our fathers have told us was dene in old times. " Brother; Great numbers of black coats have been amongst the Indians, and with tweet voices, and smiling faces, have oflered to teach them the religion of the wbitr people. Our brethren in the east listened to the black coats — turned from the religion of their fathers, and took up the religion of the white people. What good lias it I done them? Are they more happy and more friendly ono to another than we arc? No, brother, they are a divided people — wc are united ; they quarrel about religion— we live in love and friendship ; tliey drink strong water, have learned how tu cheat, and to practise all the vices of the white men, (which disgrace Indians,) without imita- ting the virtues of the white men. Brother, if you are our welUwisher, keep away, | and do not disturb us. " Brother; We do not worship the Great Spirit as the white men do, but we be- lieve that forms of worship are indiH'orent to t', ■ Great Spirit — it is the oU'ering oil « sincere heart that plciises him ; and wc worship him in this manner. According to I your religion, wcmust believe in a Fatlier and a Son, or wc will not be happy here- 1 -afW. We have always believed m a Fatlier, and we worsiiip him, as we were taught! *~. r our fatlicrs. Y'our book says the Son was sent on earth by the Father — did all tliej jieople who saw the Son believe in him ? No, they did not, and the consequences mutt I be known to you,, if you have read the book. "Brother; You wish to change our religion for yours : we \ike our religiwi, and J do not want onotlier. Our friends (pointing to Mr. Granger, ^Ir. Parrihli, and Mr! Taylor) do os great good — tliey counsel us in our troubles— and instruct us fauw w| The aipellution jiiven ta clergymen by the InJiimih UPPER CANADA. 480 Ji CHAPTER XCVI. ' fAdtk Rocky — Upper Canodciy — C/n'ppa'vaai/y — Falls of Niagara. October 28tli. The wcatUcr being dear and nqreoahlo, 1 left Buffalo at 12 o'clock, and travelled in a north west dircrtion) by a very good road, about 2 miles and a half, when I descend- ed a steep bank to l31ack Rock. There is a considerable scille- ment here along the side of the river, and umny goml stone houses have been recently built. There is a considerable settlement here along the side of the river, and many good stone houses have been recently built The river, which is about a mile broad, is- sues from the lake as clear as crystal, and runs along a hard stony bottom with a majestic current. A considerable settlement is on the British side, opposite to Black Rock; and Fort Erie is hand- somely situated about a mile above. There is a ferry at this place, and a great intercourse between the two sides of the river. From the middle of the river there is an elegant view up the lake; and, at the time I crossed, I saw several vessels at anchor, aiid one or two at a wharf a little above Black Rock, wliich is found to be rather an inconvenient station, on account of the ra- pidcurrcnt. . . vm.> ,„; ■ -.^ ...,>• On reaching the Canada shore, the first indication of being in a different dominion was the red coats of some British soldiers, who were stationed in a small house by the way side. I rode up and conversed with them. They told me they belonged to the *Ist regiment, and were stationetl at that place to keep a look ^\. ^^ after the billies " who were sometimes inclined to make a run to the American side. I thought from their language they were Scotsmen, but they told mc they were from the north of England. . ,. " . . .-.^. .. , .. The road proceeds along the bank of the river, and is elevated e the water seven or eight feet. On the British side there are rich settlements, all the way down, and I learned that the Inake ourselves comfortable. Our friends the quakcrs do more than this — they givo I B ploughs, and show us how to use them. They tell us we are accountable beings, I but do not say we must change our religion. Wc are fiatisBed with what they do. "Srother; For these reasons we cannot receive your offers — we have other things to ho> and beg you to make your mind easy, and not trouble us, lest our heads shoipt, and an imperii gone a few yards fron Iwk. Ou his return, «loue, he proceeded th I presume, "answered you know, that when me with that respect ^ ni«n again retired, am tativc of royalty, he c« <7 tpiiit before a fail' «KW tORic. 495 t descended a considerable hill, and readied Qucenstown by tnoon-light, where getting a passage across the river, I took up my lodgings for the night at Lcwistown. October 30. The morning was cloudy and warm, and I set out at 11 o'clock to see the banks of Lake Ontario. A gentleman in Lexington, Kentucky, had given me a letter of introduction to a Mr. Miller, in this neighbourhood. I made a call by the way, gnd who should I find but the very gentleman mentioned by my garrulous old friend, the Dundee plasterer, page 235. 1 found Ml'. Miller busy in the fields, and 5 sons along with him, a great portion in this country. He has a beautiful situation, on the bunks of Niagara rivCT, where he told me he had bought 1000 acres of land from the state, at about 3 dollars per acre ; and such liad been the rapid improvement of ihese back woods, that he could now sell it for 9 dollars per acre. In less than 12 years, it will probably be worth 30 dollars. Mrs. Miller and all the family had joined him in this retreat. They have every thing within them- selves to make them comfortable, and he can give each of his sons a fartn of 200 acres of as good land as any within 20 miles of the bonnet hill of Dundee. Mark that, Mr. Plaistercr I and tell me a place in the world where the like o^ that can be obtained in a few years labour — the back woods of America excepted. Mr, Miller and I agreed to meet iu the evening, and I pursued my way to Lake Ontario. The road is very good, running close by the bank of the river, and there are a number of settlements by the way. 1 learned that a reservation of a mile in breadth along the bank of the river, from Black Rock to Lake Ontario, had belonged to the state of 'iJi in. On entering the apartment, he saw a young officer sharing himself, whom accost- ing, he said, " Would you have the goodness to favour me with the change of a dollar ?** They«ung mavi surveyed him from head to foot, and tlien, with a look of iiicfTublecon' tempt, and an imperious v*ice, pronounced, '■ No." The gentleman retired, and had gone a few yards from the house, when the officer carae to the door, and called hint back. On his return, he desired him to come in, and shut the door ; which having doue, he proceeded thus: " Do you know, sir, who I am?" " An officer in the army, I presume,'* answered the odier. " Yes," added he with an oath, "and I want to let jouknow, that when you presumed I would change a dollar for you, you did not (rett me with that respect which belongs to a representative of his majesty !" The genle- man again retired, and, with sentiments of indignant contempt fur this puny repress t. utivc of royalty, he couht not help rcilcctiag on tho words of the wise man, " A baugii tj tpitit before a fatH" 'iJ. I f ■ !, '« 496 TKAVELS IN New York. They had it divided into convenient lots, nnd sold by public sale some years ago ; by which judicious plah the coun- try is settling up so rapidly, that in less than 20 years the whole cast bank of the river will probably becultivated like a garden. There was a considerable breeze from the south ; but when I came within half a mile of the shores of the lake, I found the cur- rent of air to proceed from the water, a circumstance very common on all the great lakes, and which proves that the atmosphere must be wanner on them than on the adjoining land. When I reached the lake shore, I left my horse, and descended about 20 feet to the beach ; where I tasted the water, and found it pure and good. The view east and west had nearly the same ap- pearance as on Lake Erie ; but the banks are not so lofty, and the beach, being composed of gravel and stones, is not so handsome. I rode a little way to the eastward, through level plains, skirted with oak woods, where I saw several cattle and sheep grazing ; and on my return I passed over a level plain, above half a mile broad, and quite bare of trees, to Fort Niagara, the American garrison, situated on the point of land where the river falls into the lake. This is an old French fort, with antiquated buildings, and the works were going rapidly to decay* It was then garrisoned by a company of 8 1 artillery-men; but 1 was informed that the British fort on the other side, being more elevated, had the command of it, and that therefore it must be abandoned in case of a war. The view from this place is very elegant. To the north is the lake, with York, the capital of Upper Canada, handsomely situated near the west end of it ; to the north-west is the outlet of the river, with the bar and breakers ; to the west, Newark, handsomely situated on the west side of the river, with the garrison at the upper, and the light-house at the lower end of it. The river is about half a mile broad, and the water perfectly pure. Its course is nearly north ; but it makes a small bend to the north-west immediately before it falls into the lake. It is 30 feet deep, and runs at the rate of about 3 miles an hour, from which we may calculate the discharge of water to be upwards of 128 millions of gallons per minute ; but great as tlie (juantity is, it is only about a forty-fifth part of that discharged by the Mississippi. There are two bars at the outlet. The water on the outer bar i* 24) feet deep, on the inner bar about 18. The banks are from 20 to 30 feet high, and the country on both sides perfectly level. Ta- MEW YORK. 497 wards the south the view of the river is very splcnditli and is beauti- fully terminated by the highlands about Queenstown and Lewistown. The west bank of the river has been long settled, and is studded with houses all the way between Newark and Queenstown. The east bank is yet but partially settled, but is rapidly filling up. The view to the west, on the banks of the lake, is very pleasing; the banks are pretty high, are well settled, and said to be fertile. On the east bank they are more low and ^andy, and the settlements very thin. The whole country, from the lake to the highlands above Lewis- town and Queenstown, which may, with propriety, be termed the table land of Lake Erie, is quite level, and bears evident marks of having been, at no very remote period, the bottom of Lake Ontario, which has extended a considerable way up the ridge ; and it is very evident, I think, that a great change will yet take place on these lakes. But it would lead me to too wide a field to pursue this sub- ject; I shall therefore only remark that to account for the changes which have taken place here we have no occasion to conjure up earthquakes, or volcanoes, or any other great terrific operation. The whole can be accounted for by the simple yet powerful natural causes every day in active operation. " The constant dropping of water weareth away stones ;" and the natural tendency of running waters is to wear down their beds to a level with the great reservoir, the ocean. It was my intention to have crossed over to Newark, in Upper Canada, and to have rode up the west bank of the river to Queens- town ; but the wind was blowing so strong that 1 could not cross ; to I collected what little information I could regarding it, and re- vived to return the way I came. Before leaving this place, howe- ver, I may remark that town-making is at present very fashionable in the United Suites, and this appears a beautiful scite for a town. The public ground belonging to the garrison is exactly a mile square, and is perfectly level, with an elevation of 30 feet above the river and lake, both of which abound with excellent fish; and a lit- I tie bay opposite the garrison makes a very good harbour. But it is to be observed that no town can flourish without commerce, either foreign or domestic. Foreign commerce has been overdone, and commerciaLtowns must suffer by the re-action. Tlie towns, ther^ fore, that are most likely to increase, for some, time to come, arc such as are situated in a rich country, capable of being thickly set- 63 , . ■ » 1 ' ' .'■1 1 ■ ■ , ■ 1- ■ % i! i •■';0|i^''i 498 BRITi;;n POSSESSIONS. lied, and having favourable positions for the increase of manufac. turcs. Pittsburir, Lexington, in Kentucky, and Zanesville, in 0- hio, may be cited as examples. The business of mere buying and selliiiy is in some degree precarious; because, though it may be and is often convenient to society, yet it is not absolutely necessary. It only transfers property, it adds nothing to the common stock ; but the men who raise food, and build houses; and make clothiix;, hold a most honourable station in society, because their labour is essenti- ally necessary. \Vc cannot live without it. All is the gift of iiuluhtry, whate'er . , • • , Exalts, cinbelliiilies, or sweetens lif& CHAPTER XCVIII. Brithh possrssions^ — Nrivfoundlnnd^ — Cape Breton, — Nova Scotia,— Nexv Bninswic/c, — Lower Canada, — Upper Canada. X MENTIONED in the last chapter that I procured what intelli- gence I could regarding Newark. On my return to Lewistown I procured a great deal of intelligence regarding Canada generally; and before quitting this part of the country I shall take a short review of THE BRITISH POSSESSIONS IN NORTH AMERICA, Selecting the most material facts from works of British authority. Mr. Pinkerton remarks that " those parts of North America which still belong to Britain are extensive, and of considerable im- portance, though so thinly peopled, and in such a disadvantageous climate, that they sink into insignificance when compared with the great and flourishing territories of the United States. The inhabit- ants of the states have been estimated at five millions (they are now j upwards of seven ;) while those of the British possessions scarcely excred 200,000 souls,*- and these chiefly French and natives." • The *3ritish lay claim to a vast extent of territory, comprehending I from the boundary of the United States to the north pole, and across the continent from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean ; but as there are no settlements except towards the St. Lawrence, it is imneccssary to take a view of any other than those near that river, compreheiuling * See tho table at the end (^this chapter. BRITISH POSSiniOMS. 499 Upper and Lower Cuimdn, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cupc Bre- ton, and i^'ewfuuiullnnd. The most important of these are the C and to examine the mechanism of this part of the country ; which clearly demonstrates that the falls were once here, and have, through the lapse of nges, worn a passage eight miles upwards to where they now are. They must have been successively at every point of the intermediate space. The river below this holds a placid, though pretty rapid course, to the lake, the surface being only 15 or 20 feet below the banks ; and it is from one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide ; but above this it is confined within a narrow channel, the motion is accelerated to a great velocity, and it is rough and turbulent, the probable effect of a very ragged bottom, which the fal Is would make in their ascent. The banks, nearly perpendicular, are about 300 feet high, and composed of hard limestone above, and schistus below ; and this arrangement continues all the way to the present fall. I shall here transcribe Volney*s remarks on this subject. " To those who closely examine the situation of the scene, it is plain the fall commences here, and that it has sawed through the lay- ers of the rock, and thus hollowed out its channel. The chasm has been gradually worn away, from age to age, till it reached the place where the tall now appears. This operation has continued slowly, but ince&santly. The oldest settlers in the neighbourhood recollect a period when the bank of the fall was several paces for- ward. In the winter of 1797-8, the great thaw, and consequent floods, loosened great masses, which confine 1 the course of the water,"* i aii.v*f /-uii,* m^ i -nt^rf, ^'ju* iisw ¥1 am'. * Volney exprcssses awish tli ^t the government would caase an exact account to be taken of the present state of the cataract, that, being compared with other statement} from time to time, would enable us to trace with certainty the changes that may here- after take place. This is now not so necessary ea when Volney visited these falls. The country is rapidly settling up around them, and many people visit them yearly, some of whom will occasionally publish their travels, so that all facts and circumstan- ces r^arding them will be minutely put upon record. To me it is very obvious that tbey have, to use Volney's expression, xaiued a passage through a body of very hard rock, •ight milM in length ; and it is perfectly reasonable to conclude that tiie opcrati«Hi >». j JKfKJ /rffit ,imi:ii}ntHith •ft - eminently grand as on the Canada side, where you get right in front of them, is yet very superb. lliu channel between the shore and the island is about 250 yards broad, and the descent by the rapids, previous to making the grand pitchy is about 50 feet. 1'he river is two miles and a half broad at Chijipaway creek. At the tails it 13 comructed to tliree-qiiurters of a mile. NEW YORK. 507 Below the falls it is contracted to about one-third of a mile. Feet. The descent from Chippaway creek to the head of the rapids, distant one mile, is 40. The descent in the rapids, half a mile long, is ^2 The grand pitch at the table rock, is 170 f 3 Total 262 The whole descent firom lake Erie to lake Ontario has been estii* mated at 450 feet ; and in the distance between Fort Schlosser and Devil's Hole» it has been found by actual measurement to be 373 feet. From the best information I conld procure, 1 am inclined to make the following calculation on the descent of the river between the lakes : Feet. From lake Erie to Chippaway 16 From Chippaway to the bottom of the grand pitch» as above 262 From the grand pitch to Devil's Hole 110 From Devil's Hole to Lewistown ■ BQ. From Lewistown to lake Ontario 6 ■thi: Total 450 It has been noticed that the bed of the river above the falls is composed of a stratum of very hard limestone, mixed with flint. Below this there is a stratum of very soft slate, which, when rub- bed in a wet state, assumes the appear^ince of blue clay. This, of course^ deer s much faster than the stratum above, and accounts for the lar^ javity below the falls ; and the hard rock above, ap- propriately termed the table rock, projecting over the base, renders the pitch perpendicular. In the middle of the stream, on the Canada side, the great accumulation of waters breaks down this table rock faster than it is broken at the sides, which accounts for the curve in the stream, termed, from its appearance, the horse. Iihoefall. At grand Niagara there are erected a grist-mill, a saw -mill, a fttlling-mill, a carding and roving machine; and several other 1 ajiUi are projected. The water is brought out of the river above s:" i •:. m 508 TRAVELS IN the rnpids, and n.s tlic source is incxlinustible, and the fall about 50 feet, mills and maclnncry, to a very great extent, can bo erect- here. The country round is fertile and beautiful, so that I think it probable this will become a very large settlement. It will not probably increase with the rapidity of some towns merely commer- cial ; but it will have a more steady progress, and be much less liable to re-action. There is a bar across this branch of the river, at the head of the rapids, by which the people sometimes go to the island, opposite Grand Niagara ; but it is considered rather dangerous. A boat loaded with salt and a canoe were carried over the falls not long since. The boat got adrifl about five miles above, and was carried down by the current. There were four men in it, one of whom saved himself by jumping overboard, and swimming ashore with the help of an oar. The other three kept by the boat, and were, with it, dashed to pieces among the rapids, and finally carried over the awful precipice. ? ne of the fragments of the boat and casks were found below the "alls; and one of the dead bodies was found, in a very mangled state, on lake Ontario, 11 miles from land. The canoe was carried over with two men in it, and one of the dead bodies was found below with both less off. Ducks and geese are sometimes carried over ; and though they save themselves from utter destruction by flight, they are found below so .ctunned that they cannot fly, and are caught with ease on the banks. There is a fine fishery in the water below the fails and in the rapids. Having stopped some time at Grand Niagara, we went to a ta- vern at fort Schlosser, where we passed the nights The subject of navigable canals having of late excited a great degree of attention in the United States, 1 resolved, at setting out, to pay a little attention to it, and have accordingly noticed it occasionally in the course of this work. From an early investi- gation of the subject, it appeared to me, that a canal of much im- portance could be made between this place and Lewistown, so as to continue the chain of communication from the river St. Law^ rence along the lakes. There is a natural harbour formed at fort Schlosser by an eddy in the river, and the ground is pretty level to the extremity of the land above Lewistown. An ample supply of water could be procured from the river, to make up for the waste in descending the locks ; so that it is perfectly practicable to KUW YORK. 60D make a canal. The distance is about nine miles, and the canal would require to be sufficiently large to admit of sloop navigation. But it appears, by a late survey and report of commissioners ap- pointetl by the state of New York, that the utility of such a canal may be superceded by a more profitable line to run between the Niagara river and Albany. 1 shall, therefore, here merely tran- scribe the estimate for making a canal at this place, from the secretary of the treasury's report on canals and roads, and defer a further consideration of the subject until I reach Utica or Al- . bany, when I shall have travelled over the greater part of the ground through which it is proposed the canal shall run. "The fall from lake Erie to lake Ontario has been already stated at 450 feet. A company had been incorporated by the state of New York for the purpose of openmga canal at this place, but it does not appear that any thing ever was attempted after the survey had been made. The intention seems to have been to open a canal navigation for boats only, from Fort Schlosser to Devil'b Hole. The lake itself and Giles' creek would have sup^ plied the water, and the expense was estimated at iSTtOOO dollars. " It is however, evident that the canal, in order to be as emi- nently useful as the nature of the undertaking seems to require, should be on such a scale as to admit vessels which can navigate both lakes. Considering the distance, which, in that case, must be extended to about 10 miles, and the lockage of 450 feet, it is not believed that the expence can be estimated at less than 1,000,009 dollars." CHAPTER C. Leave Fort Schlosser, — Tonewanta creek, Batavia. J^OVEMBER 1st. The morning was cool and foggy. I part- ed with my friends at nine o'clock, and set forward on my jour- ney. At a short distance from the tavern where I lodged, I pass- ed Fort .Schlosser, or rather the scite of it; for nothing how re- mains but the under part, sufficiently prominent to distinguish what was its form and dimensions. From thence to Tonewanta creek is 12 miles, and the road runs near the side of tlie river all the way. On this road there is r.l U > \M . ■ ^t'' 1 W 'IV i. "'a ' 1 .;« .li! '■^M p 11 '^ I •! .^r,M m &I0 TRAVELS IN B fine view of the river, of Grand Island, and the Canada shore. There is a small island at the mouth of the Tonewanta creek which is here joinx! by another stream called EUicott's cre«k. The river is here above half a mile wide, and the east bank ii mostly level rich land. Having crossed the creek by a wooden bridge, I left the Buffk. lo road. I perceived a new line of road, cut through the woods, leading toward Batavia, but I was informed it was impassible, and took an old path which passed a considerable way along the south bank of EUicott's creek, here a slow deep stream, with verv fertile banks. On leaving the creek I travelled through the woods, four miles, by the worst road I Iiad ever seen, before I came to any house, and I then found a few poor settlements with- in about half a mile of each other, all the way to the turn- pike, about six miles from the mouth of Tonewanta creek. The road was in some places so bad, that my horse sometimes sunk to the knees, and at one time it was with considerable dif- ficulty that I got it disengaged. The settlers whom I spoke with were nearly all sick, a natural effect in the first settlement of a low swampy country ; but the lands here are rich, and when drain- ed will form a good situation. When I reached the turnpike road, I was quite surprised to find the country so well settled. Not many years ago it was an entire wilderness ; now the houses are so thick along the road, that the traveller is never out of sight of one, and inns are to be found at the end of every two or three miles. The road runs a- long a sort of limestone ridge, and to the north the soil is com- posed of a fine black vegetable mould, which raises grain and grass in profusion. About a mile and a half from where I entered on the turnpike I crossed EUicott's creek, here a pretty, clear stream, having falls and miUs not far from the road. I was informed that the lands on the road side are laid out in lots, of half a mile in front by a inUe back, each containing 320 acres. They are all taken up, and most of them are under cultivation. The price is from 6 to 18 dollars, according to quality and degree of improvement. A great number of the settlers here are Germans, from near Lan- caster, Pennsylvania. In my progress I met several families moving to the westward, and a number of travellers, from distant places, in quest of land. MIW YORK. 511 I stopped at dark at a tavern, 19 miles from BufFulo. I was there informed that the country was mostly settled by people from Pcnn- lylvania, who were good farmers, and though they looked poor, they generally had a good deal of money. At the early part of the settlement, the country had been a good deal troubled with bears and wolves, but they had now disappeared, and sheep hud been introduced, and were thriving well. Lands arc held un- cleared at from five to seven dollars, on the roud ; a little back at three dollars. Last spring they took a sudden rise, which had checked the progress of settlement, the new settlers passing over to New ConnecticuL; and this will continue to be the case unless the price be reduced. The landlord had been on Grand Island, in the Niagara river, which he describes as a body of excellent land. November 2d. I set forward on my journey at six o'clock; the morning was cloudy, with a slight frost. I travelled six miles to breaktast, through a low muddy tract of land. Part of the road was a causeway of timber, and very rough . The tavern where I stopped was a neat clean house, and announced comfort and good cheer. On entering the breakfast room, a gentleman dressed in black sat at table, and frequently viewed me with such a gracious unile in his aspect, that it brought to my recollection the *' sweet voices anil smiling faces" mentioned by Red Jacket. At last, breaking silence, he accosted me. " Are you from New York, pray, SU' ?" Yes sir," replied I. After some common-place conversation, he observed, " New York seems to me to be highly favoured with divines."— As I object to the titles of the Almighty being applied to any set of men, I wished to waive the subject ; but he seemed determined to improve the time, and ran on with a variety of observations on the clergy of New York, and circum- stances connected with the clerical profession generally; and, rising up, he repeated with much emphasis the charge of the apostle Paul to Timothy, which having finished, he called for his horse, iiid rode off. I learned that he was a missionary preacher, and is probably the same whom lied Jacket addressed in May last. After breakfast I continued my journey, through a level coun- try, abounding with small swamps, but the soil was good; and 10 miles from the tavern reached Tonnewanta creek, which I fussed by a bridge, and travelled along its left bank four miles to Batavia, of which the elegant court-house has a beautiful appearance at a distance ' t , ;. J.,, in*. I I- i lit 512 TRAVELS IN Batnvia being the plncc for transacting the business of the IIoI- land land company, I waited on Mr. Ellicott, the agent, who favoured mc with a great variety of useful information. This district, conmionly called the Holland Purchose, extends from Lake Ontario to the Pennsylvania line on the south, and from Pennsylvania line on the west, to ihe banks of the Geiiessec on the east. Its extreme length from oast to west is about 96 mili?s, and the breadth from north to south 'u nearly as much ; but the lakes and Uj)pcr Canada cut off a hir^o portion from the square on the west side, and a considerable por- tion is cut off on the north-cast side by otiier purchases towards the Gcnessce river. The remainder amounts to about C200 square miles, or nearly 4,000,000 acres ; but froin this arc to be deducted the Indian reservations, and the New York state reser- vation, making together about 250,000 acres, leaving to this com- pany 3,750,000, being by far the largest tract of land ever held by any land company in this country. The general configuration of the country may be inferred from 1 the account of that part through which I travelled. Towards the borders of the state it is hilly ; from thence to within eight miles of | lake Ontario, it is a high plain, in most places undulating, and | agreeably uneven ; in others nearly level : to the north ot the ridge, eight miles from lake Ontario, it is almost quite level to the lake. The soil is gefierdlly fertile, the whole being nearly similar (o I that described, except in the southern district, where it is rather rough. It seems to be rather defective in minerals, but is abun- dantly supplied with springs and streams of water ; and tliere arc I several salt-springs, and some air and oil-springs. The Holland company have adopted very judicious measures! in settling up the lands, and have expended vast sums of moncyj on roads, bridges, buildings, and improvements ; but the countryj is now rapidly settling up, and the purchase is likely to turn outj a very favourable speculation. The settlers are mostly from New England, and they give thej tone to the manners and habits of the people, which are nearly as- similated to those of the New England states, though tliey are! interspersed with Germans, and with emigrants from Ireland and| Scotland. The inhabitants are mostly farmers and mechanic-: there are no manufactures on a large scale, but there are a grea'j NtW YORK. 513 number of cnrdin^ machines, niul the people mostly miikc their own clothing. There arc no roscrves for schools ; but cihicntioii is pretty well attended to by the iiihubitunts, who, whenever 10 families are settled near each other, associate and procnre a sckool-moster. The district is divided into five counties, contain- ing 23,557 inhabitants. There are no towns of any ini)K)rtancc in the district. The country houses exhibit a similar appearance to those in New Eng- land, being built of wood, and painted white. Many of the /a are beautiful, and display an elegant taste. The country is well supplied with prettv good 'oo^i^, of '.vhuii the great state road, alreudy mentioned, is the f.h cf. Tiirrc are abundance of good taverns by the way, which acconiaiiHiftic pn;- lengers on reasonable terms. The principal mavktf h; aa thj; i *ke, and it is believed by the people here that it will a!\vu}v corttiiiue to be so; they seem, so far as I have yet collected their B«:jiU!mc»ls, to consider the projected canal as of no imporluiice to th?m; an>!t tUo moft prevalent opinion, indeed, is that it is iniprac^icnblc, ,\'m). ihat the scheme will be abandoned. At present the emigrants who are pouring into the country and travelling to the we-Jtwr.rdy vuk :. uj) n great part of the surplus produce. The present price of the company's lands is S doVlais r>C cents per acre, of which 5 per cent, is payable in cash, and t'*e rcmairu'cr, being divided into 6 instalments, is payable at 3, 4, 5^ 6, 7, and 8 years, with interest for the last 6 years ; but if the purchaser neg- lects to make certain improvements the first year, he is then subject to pay interest from the date of sale. The above, however, :& only (he general retail price to settlers; there are mapv tracts v»hu;h would be sold for less : and a colony of settlers wijo cowK! pur»'ha5'e a whole township could be accommodated on, fr-vourabie terms. Twenty per cent, discount is allowed for c&<>h. Batavia consists of about 50 house;. ;. tourt-house, 4 taverns, 4- stores, and a grist milL It was lAi\ out in lots of 20 rods in fiont, by I mile deep, and sold .uiginady for 5 dollars per acre, the pur- chaser being bound to clear 5 acres in front the first year after the purchase. In consequence of the decay of so much vegetable mat- ter, it was at first unhealthy in the summer and fall ; but of late it has been healthy. This last summer, however, there were some ca- ses of typhus fever ; but not ol a very fatal tendency, and it did not spread. 65 * "\ : i i . 1 ■J , " If, 1 514 TRAVELS IS Furmors and mechanics arc best adapted to the country, and if lliey are industrious they arc sure to succeed. A farmer can get a (juartcr section of land, 160 acres, for 560 dollars, with eight years to pay it. If he is industrious, he may have the whole cleared and cultivated like a i;arden by the end of that time ; when, in conse- quence of the rise on property, by the increase of population, and the cultivation by his individual industry, his land may be worth 50 dollars per acre, or ROOD dollars; besides his stock of cattle, &c., which mny be worth half us much more. Mechanics are well paid for their labour; carpenters have 1 dollar per day and their board; if they board themselves 1 dollar 25 cents. Other trades have in proportion, and living is cheap. Flour is about 5 dollars perbjir- rd, beef 't cents per lb., fowls 12' cents each, fish arc plenty and cl»eap. A mechanic can thus earn as much in two days as will main- tain a family for a week ; and by vesting the surplus in houses and lots ill a judicious manner, he may accumulate money as fnst as the lia'mer, and both may be independent and happy. Indeed, these two classes cannot too highly prize the blessings they enjoy in this country, nor be sufilciently grateful to the almighty Disposer of all events, for casting their lot in a land where they have advantjigcs so far transcending what the same classes have in any other. I know tliere are many who hold a different opinion ; but I must take the liberty to dissent from it, and the reader who has travelled with me thus far, will allow that my opinion is not founded either on a par- tial or prejudiced view of the subject; it is deduced from plain un- varnished facts, which no reasoning can set aside, nor sophistrj' in- validate. I know that there are many wealthy and respectable farm- er!*, mechanics, and manufacturers in the old countries; but 1 speak of the mass of the people — the labourers. Wherever their situa- tion is contrasted with that of the same class here, it will be found that the contrast is greatly in favour of America. In those countries where the feudal system prevails, the lands are nearly all entailed on the great families, who, being the lords of the soil, are also Iti? lords of the laws. The farmer must pay a high rent annually for the use of his farm : he may get a lease, perhaps, for a number ot years; but he is boimd to cultivate the ground in the way prescrib- ed by the tenure of thnt lease. If he improves the farm, thein> provements are for another — not for him ; and it often happen* that at tho end of the lease, if another is willing to give oneshiliiii/l more than him, or if the proprietor has a favourite, or wishes to turn NEW YORK. 515 two or more farms into one, or has taken umbrage at his politics, or his religion, or any thing else regarding him or his family, he will not set a renewal of the lease. I have known families to have been ruined in tins way. Being turned out oi' their farm, they re- lire to a town or city, where their substance is soon spent, and they pine away in poverty and wretchedness, and at last find a happy re- lief in the cold grave I Compare this with the situation of the American farmer. He cultivates his own soil, or if he has none he can procure it in sufTi- cient quantity for 200 or 300 dollars. If he has no money, he can get credit ; and all that is necessary to redeemhis credit is to put forth his hand and be industrious. He can stand erect on the mid- dle of his farm and say : " This ground is mine : from the highest canopy of heaven down to the lowest depths, I can claim all that I can get possession of witliin these bounds — fowls of the air, fish of the sea, and all that pass through the same !" And having a full share of consequence in the political scale, his equal rights are gua- ranteed to him. None dare encroach upon him ; li j can sit under his own vine, and under his own fig-tree, and none to make him afraid. Look at the mechanic and manufacturer : In A mcrica they can cam from 6 to 9 dollars per week, and have provisions so reasonable that they can maintain themselves in ease and affluence, and accu- mulate property for old age and for their offspring ; while in some of the old countries they can only earn about as many shillings, while provisions are so dear, that it is with difliculty they can snp- port a wretched existence. Their case is wretched, indeed, under those governments, which by a refinement of cruelty have entailed this further curse upon them — that except by stealth, they cannot, they dare not leave the country. CHAPTER CI. Leave Batavia^ — Genesee river, — Canandaigim. 1 HERE is something in an extensive country that is calculated to enlarge the mind, and to steel the body against the fatigues in- cident to a long journey. I had now travelled upwarils of 2000 miles in the space of 12 weeks, during which 1 do not thuik I ww* \ ' r: III I i \M Ij i-t ^f: ■ :':■ liri'tf •i, M ■4-i t- ^ % 516 TRAVELS IN an hour idle. Both body and ntiud had been incessantly occupied, yet I fdt little fatigue; the recollection of the scenery I had passed over, the vast variety of usetui information I had collected, the per- petual succession of fresh objects, ami Llie coll.ectiveview,in my mind's eye, of such an extended country, under such a mild government, all conspired to produce sensations gratifyin^r in the highest degree ; and 1 am a convert to that part of the Bruuonian system, which attributes support to the body from salutary stimulus on the mind. It was as natural for me to rise at the dawn of day as to call for my breakfast ; if I met with company on the road, I spoke to them ; if they were going the same way, I entered into conversation, and sel- dom failed to get something worth putting on record. If I travel- led alone, I had an ample fund for meditation and reflection. When I stopped, my meals were short, and the remaining part of the in- terval of rest was employed in inquiry and recording. My even- ings, excepting the time that was necessary to see my horse taken care of, were spent in the same way-- often till 11 or 12 o'clock. It was gratifying to reflect tliat I had travelled in the United States upwards of 7000 miles, almost a stranger in the country, without any other passport than decent respect to the inhabitants, which I uniformly met with in return. And here I cannot but express my surprise at the invective and ill-natured remarks that I have seen in the writings of some travellers through this country. As to their general sweeping conclusions, we may pass them over as the mere cfflisions of ignorant spleen ; but the particular instances of rude- ness and ungracious reception they have met with, merit more at- tention : the records are so many stigmas upon their own conduct. Strangers may meet with instances of rudeness and rough treat- ment in America — plenty of them ; the American people will not tamely submit to an insult, neither collectively nor individually ; and a traveller will not find it to his comfort to proceed by cursing the waiter for doing this, and damning the hostler for not doing that, and threatening to send Boots to hell, if his leathern conveniencies are not so clear as he can see his shadow in them. Some people are accustomed to travel in that way at " ome ;" but if they should happen to set out on a tour through America in the same style, they will soon have to record the trophies of their own imprudence. There are no waiters, nor hostlers, nor Boots* here, in the same sense as in Britain ; they are all freemen, equal in the eye of the law, and in the scale of right. They know their power in the body KEW YORK. 517 politic, and will not relinquish it ; and a traveller can only expect to be comfortable by adopting a suavity of manners calculated to secure the good will of all ; or, as the apostle Paul expresses him- self, by " becoming all things to all men." In this humour I left Batavia, on the 3 J of November, after a pretty heavy fain, the day damp and chilly. I rode six miles to Black creek, on which there arc falls and good mill-seats, two miles below the road. Four miles more brought me to Le Roy, situated on Allen's creek. I was informed the place had been somewhat sickly, the more remarkable, because it is on high open land ; but I could perceive the cause in a large mill-pond, with the stumps of trees standing in it. People should, if possible, avoid makuig mill- ponds close by their dwelling houses ; or if they do, they should, in mercy to themselves, first take out all the wood, and leave nothing to rot in the water. There are 75 feet falls in this creek, two and a half miles from the road. I travelled six miles more to McDonald's tavern, and was inform- ed that there was a Scots settlement, called Caledonia, about four miles off the road. Indeed Mr. Ellicott had mentioned it to me be- fore. The settlers are much respected for their industry, sobriety, and integrity. Some of them are represented as not beiig very nice in the article of cleanliness, a circumstance, I must confess, too com- mon among the Scottish peasantry; but their solid good qualities speak volumes in their favour; and pursuing agrici.ii'ure in Ame- rica, they will, no doubt, soon correct a fault, which, though not immoral, is disagreeable. From hence to Genesee river is nine miles, part of the way through large openings, and towards the river is an Indian reservation, con- taming a great deal of excellent bottom land. The river is here a considerable stream ; but very muddy, with vast quantities of de- caying vegetable matter about its banks, which sufficiently accounts for the sickness on it ; but it has a fine descent, aiid the banks admit of being drained, so that the sickness will be only temporary ; while the fine bottoms on it will insure a large and very rich settlement. There are four large falls upon the river. Two of them, 50 miles from the lake, precipitate the water 90 and 60 — together, 150 feet ; and two more, on the continuation of the ridge from Lewistown, six wiles from the lake, throw it down 75 and 96 — together, 171, — in all 321 feet. This shows that the configuration of the country has undergone a change from the falls of Niagara. The table land seems to fall one-half, about 50 miles from Lake Ontario. ! ' w w- ! 'it ; a .If. » H 1 i T 1 H ' ' B ! 1 1 1 • 1 i ♦ ,-i H;^ 'i \ if ' i ni' I 518 TRAVELS IN After crossing the river by a pretty good bridge, I rose b)' a fine elevated bank to a little village called Avon. I was now in Ontario I county, and was surprised at the degree of cultivation it had under- gone. Though all settled within 20 years, it looked like an old country. The houses were good, and the fields fertile. But I was, above all, delighted with the fine views which ap])earcd] every where around me. I had long travelled through low land, and the country so much covered with wood, that I had little dis- tant prospect : but here the country" swells out into large ridges, and is sufficiently clear^w^^ to see, in some places, to a great dis- tance. Night came on, and I hurried to a tavern, six miles from the river, where I stopped all night. I was informed at the tavern that there was a pretty good har- ' bour at the outlet of the Genesee river, to which there was a good road, distant about 35 miles. The price of wheat there was 75 cents ber bushel, and flour in proportion. A custom-house is si- tuated at the outlet of the river, and a vessel had lately been seized, having smuggled goods on board, to the value of 50,000 dollar?. Some improved farms on the road have lately been sold as high as 40 dollars per acre. November 4th. Clear and hard frost. — I started before sun- rise, and passed through an open country, rather hilly, but the soil all arable, five miles to Honeoye creek, a pretty little stream, which issues out of a lake of the same name a few miles to the south, where there arc three more lakes, all pretty sheets of water, which add much to the beauty of this charming country. I was i now in the township of Bloomfield, and passed a handsome little I village, with an elegant church and spire, exhibiting an appear- ance very much resembling those in New England, from whence | the greater number of the settlers here have originated. I passed on through a fine swelling, open country, with good soil, 6 miles more, to another village, and here I stopped for breakfast. This is also a very pretty village, adorned with a handsome church and spire. 1 was informed that this place began to settle about 21 years ago; the original temporary houses have nearly all given way to elegant frame and brick houses, and the whole settlement indicated wealth, and rapid improvement. Land in the neighbourhood is good, and sells by the improved farm at 30 dollars an acre. From a height above the tavern, I had a fine view, extending to the north and north-east 30 miles. vided, is about tc NEW YORK. 519 From Bloom Belli to Canundaigua, the road passes over a fine rich country, abounding in splendid views, for seven miles. On entering Canandaigua, I was really surprised at the beauty of the place, and the surrounding scenery. The lake to the south, and the scenery around it, forms one of the most beautiful landscapes to be seen any where ; and to the north, on the brow of an elevat- c(] swelling country, stands the village ; which for beauty of situa- tion, and elegance of buildings, is decidedly the handsomest vil- lage I have ever yet seen. Having a letter of introduction to Mr. Seymour of this place, a gentleman whom I became acquainted with in Scotland 14- years ggo, 1 travelled through a spacious street to his house, where I received a hospitable welcome, and remained two days. Canandaigua was laid out from 20 to 21 years ago. The main street is 130 feet wide, and extends south and north a mile and a lialf, and there is a centre square, and several cross streets ; but the principal buildings are on the main street. The village lots are 22 rods in front by 6G deep, having outlots of 30 acres an- nexed to them ; and this ground, which was bought 20 years ag<» lor from one to two dollars an acre, is now, by the improve- ments, and progress of scttlenient, worth from 500 to 1000 dollars per acre for the village lots, and from 80 to 100 for the outlots. The ground is rich, and all arable. Canandaigua consists of about 120 houses, containing about 600 inhabitants. There is a handsome brick court-house in the centre square, a jail, and, on the most elevated ground of the village, au elegant academy, exhibiting at a distance a beautiful appearance. There is no church, but an elegant one, for which funds are i)ro- vided, is about to be built. I have before noticed that the houses are handsome: they arc moslly -f wood, painted white; but a "ood many have of late been built of brick, which are best calcu- lated for this part of the country. As Canandaigua is in the centre of a remarkably well settled country, it has a very considerable retail trade, and supports six Uores, many of which do a great deal of business ; and there arc six taverns. A great deal of land business is transacted here, of which my friend Mr. Seymour has a large share. I have uniformly noticed, throughout my travels, that a settle- ment in a good soil and favourable climate never fails to succeed, whether it is near a market or not; whereas a settlement in au ■'■A.> h,. ''\ i-V ik- y 520 TRAVKLS IN unfavourable soil, or unhealthy climate, however favourable its situation tor commerce, is precarious, ami subject to great vicissi- tudes. The balance of chances is against it. Numerous instances occur in the course of this work to confirm both these positions. A very striking one c^ the former exists in this place. Canan- daigua is far from a markeb, .yet it flourishes in a very eminent degree ; the people have not foreign commerce, but, what is in- finitely more valuable, they have elogant fields, and orchards, and flocks, and herds, and pure air and fine water, and freedom from the pollution and contamination of great commercial cities. This is principally an agricultural village ; the most of the people have every thing within themselves, and provisions are very reasonable: flour five dollars per barrel ; beef, mutton, and veal three to five cents per pound, and other things in proportion. There are good mechanics in the village, in the various branches calculated for the country, and they have good wages. Two tan-yards and two distilleries arc the principal manufactories ; there is but little done in the household way in the village, but a great deal is done in the country. The inhabitants are mostly from New England, and the young ladies, with whom the village abounds, exhibit the appearance of the Yankee ladies, in a new and beautiful edition, with great im- provements. There is really fine a society at Canandaigua. Of the learned professors they have on ample supply — indeed I should be inclined to think that six doctors and six lawyers were too many; but it is to be recollected, ihixt in an agricultural village they arc not dependent on their professions alone, but can have their prin- cipal supply from their farms, and use their calling principally as a recreation. Some of the country lawyers are editors of news- papers, and write remarkably well; and as almost every district, or village, has a paper on each side of the great political question, it is in no danger of turning stale for want of stirring; there are two newspapers here, one on each side, and they battle the watch most stoullv. Though last mentioned, not last in estimation, education is well attended to, as it is every where, when the settlement consists principally of New Englanders. The academy is endowed with 5000 acres of land, and schools arc on such u footing that all have access to them. The view cf the country round Canandaigua, which may irt' NIW YORK. 121 tlced include the whole county of Ontario^ is valuable, as it throws light upon the future destinies of ihat part of America often known by name of the back ivoodSf or the wilderness. The county of Ontario is about 44> miles long, by 40 brond, and contains about 1760 square miles of territory, from which we may deduct 60 miles for water. Twenty years ago this was a wilderness ; but the wilderness has truly been made to become a fruitful field, and to blossom like the rose. It now contains 42,026 inhabitants, being nearly 25 to the square mile ; and they are rapidly increasing in numbers, in wealth, in agriculture, in manufactures, and the mechanic arts. There arc in the county 1903 looms, 37 tan-works, 76 distilleries, .20 fulling mills, and 22 carding machines, besides some glasa works and potteries ; and I learned that cotton and woollen factories were projected near Canandaigua. Land, which was bought 20 years ago at 1 dollar an acre, may now be sold in some places at 50 dollars ; the average price of land, partly cleared, ma}' be about 8 to 25 dollars, uncleared 4 to 6 dollars; but in the vicinity of villages nearly 10 dollars. Horses 40 to 75 dollars, cows 20, and sheep 2 dollars. The vast increase of wealth in this county may be inferred from this circumstance — that Canandaigua, the scite of which 20 years ago would have been reckoned dear at 2000 dollars, was estimated at the value of 212,485 dollars in 1809, and it has greatly in- creased since ; probably the property is now worth 500,000 dollars. CHAPTER CII. Leave Canandaigua ^ — A SmoJcing Scene, — Geneva. UN the afternoon of the 6th November, the weather cool and cloudy, I took leave of Mr. Seymour's agreeable family, with a view of travelling to Geneva that evening, distant 16 miles; but the road was heavy, and I was obliged to stop at a tavern, six miles short of the village. The fire was not lighted in the parlour, and 1 sat down at the fire in the bar-room, and began to write my notes. But I did not long enjoy repose in this situation ; a man came in and li<>ht- td his segar, and turning his backside to the fire, he whillkl 66 682 TIlAVl-LS IN away, at the ciul ot* every two or three puffs squirting a mouthful ol" ssilivii through the room. He was soon joined by a second and a third, when tliey made a little circle roumi the fire. They all had scgars, and I was soon enveloped in smoke, and obliired to siuit my papers. Three others came in and joined the parly. One took a large roll of tobacco out of his pocket, and taking an immense quid, he rolltd it about in his mouth, and squirted a- bout tho saliva in all directions, without paying much rcer, 01 31 52 11 10 2 1 7 9 6 NovemlKT, 59 28 •41 10 14 1' 4 3 4 7 11 2 December 42 C 30 a 9 1' 7 3(3 7 •s 1 4 lilOO. January, 'JO 6 25 11 15 4 3 3 6 10 Febriiarf, 4f) 5 2« 12 5 [10 7 1011 March, 44 18 35 010 '•^1 ^ 9 5 11 1 April, 74 39 53 9 « 6! 1 5 10 6 1 May, 75 48 61 lOl 4 3 3 fi 6 2 June, R'i 55 71 15 1 2 3 3 5 5 1 July. 92 63 82 I5I 5 1 8 2 4 G 1 12084 ^231 4128f;7|82 23| 4 ~i The month of August was not inserted in the register , but ir may be reckoned nearly the same as June, or a medium between June and July. The first snow was on the 1st of November. The coldest day was on the 10th of February, wind north» and clear. The snow was deepest on the 15th of February, being 4 feet.* It thundered on the 1 8th of March. Pigeons were seen upon the 25th of March. Grass appeared upon the 4th of April. Maple-tree leaves appeared on the 19th. The warmest day was on the 1 0th of July, wind west. The prevailing winds are south, south-west, west and north west. The north-west winds are frequently accompanied with clouds and rain, and the south and south-west winds are frequently clear and dry. The reasons are obvious : the great lakes have a tenden- cy to affect the one, while the mountains affect the other. Easterly winds are very rare. Geneva is in latitude 42** SO', being nearly parallel to Ncwburj- port in America, and Cape Finisterre, in Portugal. It is exactly in the meridian of Washington city, and a little to the eastward oi Carlisle, in Pennsylvania. Lfave Genni * It is proper to remark, that the winter of 1799 1800 was the coldest, and thesBon the deepest, that ever was known in this part of the country. NEW YORK. CHAPTER cm. m Leave Geneva, — AuhutHy — Sleneatelt'ss, Onondago^ — Mcnliir* Square, — Uiica. I PARTED with my agreeable friends at Geneva at 10 o'cloci^. Tiic morning was cool and cloudy, with a strong south wind. I paskcd along from the head of the lake by good bottom lands ; but the soil soon becomes poor and sandy; ani I travelled through some pine woods, the first I had seen siut^ 1 })Asseil the Allegany mountains. I travelled a little way along the side of Seneca river, and crossed it by a bridge at the falls, where I obtiervcd numerous mills; among others, a fulling-mill, and carding-machine. Three miles from thence I passed through pretty gixwl lanti, and thick settlements, to Cayuga lake, about a mile brond, and I crossed it by a flat boat with a sail. A bridge was erected here, but it broke down about three years ago, and the remains of it are still to be seen. I learned that another would be erected soon. The lake is shallow, ami fret»zcs in winter. Cayuga village stands in a pretty elevated situation, on the east bank of the lake, and contains 20 dwelling-houses, 2 taverns, and 2 stores. There is an inconsider- able trade upon the lake and river, in salt upwards, and flour downwards. Seneca river, after passing Into the lake at the north end, re- issues a little to the eastward, and, running a north and east course to Cross lake, it receives the waters of Canandaigua lake, Owasco lake, and Skencatelcss, besides those of smaller note. Prom Cross lake it makes a bend by the north and east, and receives the waters of Onondago lake, when it turns to the north, and forms a junc- tion with Oneida river, when the two rivers united, assuming the name of Oswego river, pursues a north-west course to Luke Onta- rio, in its progress passing over a ridge, by a fall of 10 feet per- pondicular, and from thence it has a very rapid current for 12 miles to Lake Ontario. Here I fell in with two travellers going to the eastward, with whom I kept company, and passing on 6 miles, we arrived at Au- burn, on the Owasco river, where we stopped all night. In the course ot iW day, I passed from 20 to 30 families moving to the westward. AuBURM is the seat of justice of Cayuga county. It was laid ^■- % f , I <\\ u»Hil •1 ■ M; 628 TRAVELS IK out 10 years ago, and now contains about 100 houses, and (500 in- li. hitants. The public buildings arc a court-house, jail, church, and academy, and there are 8 stores, 3 taverns, and a weekly news- j)apcr. There are small falls on the river at this place, which af- ford water for 3 grist-mills, 1 saw-mill, 1 trip-hammer, 1 oil-mill, 4 carding machines, and 3 fulling-mills ; and there are in the town 3 tanneries, 3 distilleries, 2 hat factories, and 4> smiths' forges. November 9. The morning was cloudy and agreeable. I tra" veiled to Skeneateless, 7 miles, to breakfast. The road very mud- dy ; the soil black loam and clay ; the face of the country uneven, but not hilly ; and the grounds pretty well cleared of timber, ex- cept the roots, which stood up all along the road, so many wit- nesses that this is a new country. I passed a number of waggons moving to the westward, and saw some travellers walking on foot eastward, one of whom told he was from Grand river, on Lake Eric, and was going to Connecticut, which journey, 600 miles, he expected to perform in 20 days. Skeneateless is a beautiful little place, situated at the outlet ol the lake of the same name. It was laid out about 15 vears aco, and contains about 60 houses, and 350 inhabitants. The village lots are 30 feet by 60, and are worth about 200 dollars ; and the out-lots sell for about 500 dollars an acre. There is a congregational church, with a Iiandsome spire, situated upon the top of the hill ; and there are in the village 4 stores and 2 taverns. The principal occupations are 2 carpenters, 2 masons, 2 blacksmiths, 1 watch- maker, 2 cabinet-makers, 1 taylor, 1 hatter, 1 tanner, 1 shoe- maker, 2 coopers, 1 painter, i dyer, 2 doctors, 4 lawyers, 1 cler- gyman, and 2 schoolmasters, who teach at 2 dollars per quarter. There are falls on the river, which issues from the lake, and the water turns 2 fulling-mills, a grist-mill, and a saw-mill ; and a brick- yard and 2 distilleries are in the neighbourhood. A great quantity of woollen cloth is manufactured here, and manufactories generally are increasing. The situation is healthy, and the view along the bke is beautiful. After breakfast I passed the outlet by a wooden bridge, immedi- ately below which are the mills and mill-dam. 1 observed a boy fishing, and saw several very pretty trout lying on the bridge. I in- quired how long he had been in catching theni ; he answered about live minutes. Just as ho spoke he pnlled up a large salmon-trout, and J stopped about i minutes, during ;vhich he caught three or four i I"- NEW YOHK. 529 more. It was the finest fishing I ever saw; and the trout were beautiful. From hence I passed over six miles, the soil nc!wly as before de- scribed, and the country uneven; and three miles further on I pass- ed a fine stream rumiing to the northward in a hollow, on whio)i is a handsome settlement of 30 houses, with a (^rist-mill, saw-mill, and fulling-mill. To the east of this tliere is a large clearing, and a congregational church, but it looks humble for want of a spire. The country now becomes more hilly, and alfords many fine views, the greatest extent being to the northward. The road was vejy muddy, and composed of a stilf red clay ; the soil was generally good, a black mould being above the clay ; and the timber connisl- ed of every variety ; in most places \yjvch was predominant. Eight miles brought me to Onondago court-hotsse, a small place consisting of 23 houses, 3 stores, and 2 taverns ; and a mile boyond this, in a deep valley called Onondago Hollow, stan;l.>j a very hand- some village, consisting of 10 dwelling houses, having an clogp.nt brick church, with a spire. A creek of clear water runs through the hollow to the north, and drives nnmy mills ; and in front of the road, on the brow of a hill, is a handsome state-arsenal, built of hewn stone. The view here reminded me of sortie of the scenery in the state of Ohio.* ill ^P ^1 H li 'II 1b M ^ ' iili i ; • To tlie nortli of this about five or six miles, are the colel»rateJ Oiionit'.go salt-works ; as I did not turn out of my way to view them, I shall transcribe an account of them from Schultz's Travels. " The town of Salina is situated on a bank fifty feet a'jove thu creek and marsh in front, and contains about fifty houseu, some of wliich make a rcspectalde aiipcaranco. The country iinmediately around the town appears to be a stilT bairen clay ; and wood, i'vom the vast consumption of the furnaces, has already liecoa.j scarce. Tlie wliolc ■:■ K . 3 w- 530 TRAVELS IN The road, immediately after passing this hollow, winds up the hill to a considerable height. The bottom of it is improved ; but the soil is inferior, and we saw a good deal of pine wootl. In my pro- gress I saw Onondago lake, and arriving at Manlius Square, 10 mile* irom Onondago Hollow, at dark, 1 stopped all night. Manlius S(juare has been settled about 12 years, and now con tains about 60 dwelUng houses, 3 taverns, and 6 stores, 2 grist mills, an oil-null, a fulling-mill, a carding machine, and a dye-house, 2 tan- yards, and 2 hat-factories. The lots are a quarter of an acre each, and are worth from 250 to 500 dollars ; improved land in the neighbourhood sells for from 10 to 30 dollars per acre. Manufac- lui'cs are progressing in the town and neighbourhood. Two com- panies have been formed for carrying on glass and iron works, ami a vast quantity of woollen cloth is made through the country. November 10. I found there had been a good deal of rain dur- in NBW YORK. 531 nascrago, a handsome village, consisting of about 20 frame houses, painted white. At 3 o'clock I passed Oneida creek, on which there is a considerable settlement of Indians. The land here is sandy and level, and covered with pine woods; l»iit the country round is V 'My, and the soil good. The road passes a little village called Vernon, and proceeds throu;r}i a thickly-settled country, with good landi and {)!enty of taverns by the way. Towards evening I came to u sign-post pointing to the left, on which was painted in large cha- lacters, cTt" /o Ulka 16 miles. I turned a!»ide, according to the di- /ection given ; but I soon f(iund the road near ly impassable, and turned back to nuiki' inquiry. When I regained the turnpike, a traveller came forward, and told me to keep the straight road — the sign-post was an imposition, and merited no attention. It was a decoy to induce travellers to take a very bad road that led three or four miles round, in order that some tavern-keepers might make a little money by them. *' O, money I" exclaimed I, " the love of thee is the root of all evil. In this case thou hast almost extorted the malediction recorded in the bible, * cursed is he that turneth the traveller out of his way.' " 1 kept company with this new acquaint- ance, and we travelled five miles to Laird's tavern, where we stop- ped for the night, 1 1 miles from U- xa. November 1 1 . Being anxious lo get to Utica early, I set out at dav-litrht, and the discreet traveller whom I fell in with last nijiht kept me company. We travelled through a pretty hilly country, and good hard road, with improved farms on each side, seven miki> to Hartford, situated on a little stream that i'alU into the Mohawk, and is rapidly advancing in manufactures. Some cotton-works had been recently erected. We stopped here while I got a shoe put on my horse, and I observed in the smith's forge a pair of bellows on a new construction, tor which a patent had been obtained. The prin- ciple was prcci.-ely the same as the common bellows ; but the appli- cation is an evident improvement. The air in collected in a circu- lar wooden cylinder, having moveable pistons above and below, fixed tc the cylinder with leather, so as to allow them ujotion, and at the same time keep the interior of the vessel air tight. The air has ingress below a valve, and has egress from the side of the cylin- der b) a tube leading to the forge. The advantages over the com- mon bellows are tlurability, compactness, and cheapness. The road and country continue nearly the same as already de« scribed; 4; miles, to Utica. In our nrogressj my fellow-travelbr told ('. K:; Wf- 533 TRAVELS IN mc he was settled in New Connecticut, to which he hail emigrated from Lower Caiiada, not far from the American line on New Hamp- shire. lie was highly pleased with thcchanorehc had made. His chief objection to Canada was the long severe winters, the haughti- ness of the soldiery, and the encouragement of spies and informers* by which means the best citizens were liable to become a prey to the worst, lie allirmcd that the people in that district were universally dissatisfied, and a war with the United States would be the signal for revolt, if it was seen that the United States had an army suffi- ciently powerful to support them. As we approached towards Ucica, I was quite surprised with the appearance of the country ; the houses were so thick, that it was for a considerable way like a continued village. Many of the buildings were elegant, with fine orchards attached to them, and the plots of ground adjoining were fertile and elegantly cultivated ; while the lands at a little distance formed a singular contrast. They were bare of trees to a considerable distance; but the stumps were pro- fusely scattered over the surface — a sure indication that the coun- try had not long been the habitation of man. This is, indeed, a new country; but society has made most rapid progress — the more so, of course, that it is immediately contiguous to the old ; and Uti- ca, which we reached at 9 o'clock, may be termed the key to the western country. CflAPTER CIV. Ulica, — llcDiarfcs on the Grand Canal, — Foreign and Intcriml Commerce and Manii/aetiircs. V my progress throiiah the western parts of the state of New York, the grand canal liad frecjuenlly become the topic of conver- sation; but it did not appear to have excited that interest there that might Iiavc been expected from a work of such magnitude. It ha:' l)ecn differently viewed at Utica. * Til? pjrarul canal, it was presumed, would recruit the drooping commr: ;c of the town, re-animate the spirit for building, restore con- fidence in til-' future greatness of the j)lace, and improve the price oflots. My individual opinion of the canal was by this time form- ed, and when I frankly stated it, 1 was often mortified to find that NEW YORK. 533 it was very uncongenial to the fond anticipation of iny friends. I always make it a rule, however, to be candid, and to speak what I think. I have not yet learned the hnppy facility of " booing to the great mon," and 1 am now too old to learn. A candid opinion, founded upon examination, though it should be even incorrect, is ot" more service to the cause of truth than a complaisant acquies- cence without any examination at all ; and every person who states his o}iinion candidly and discreetly, will receive the approbation of the wise and the good ; the rest are not worth caring for. My can- did opinion then was that there would probably be no grand canal, (the reasoiis I shall give hereafter;) and that the people of Utica would deceive themselves it they looked for relief to their drooping commerce from that tjuartcr. But I saw that Utica was piobably destined to be re-animated ni another way. I think it will become one of the greatest manufacturing districts in the United States; and in that view I proceed to con.-ider it. It may be proper first to glance at Utica as regards foreign com- merce. By looking at the map, it will be seen that Utica la on the Moliawk river, near the hcadof nnvigati;.n, 100 miles from Albany. The mountainous district commences hero, and continues to within 60 miles of New York, and to the nor'.h and west is a fine cham- paign country, wliich, since it began to .settle, has proceeded with a rapidity of improvement that has no parallel on earth, except in the state of Ohio. While this western country was in its infancy, the first employment of the settlers was to clear the ground, and raise a little grain and pork for sale; i id with the jirocceds provide various supplies for their families. Having no other mar- !:et, except the low country, and no resources within themselvc?, this trade centered iiVet at Albany, and was very beneficial to it. About 2'J years ago, a settlement was commenced at Utica, in which the stores were well sufiplied with dry goods and groceries, and with cash to purchase produce. It was found to be a saving to the farm- ers to trade here, in place of going to Albany, and a considerable pcrtion of the trade nccordingiy rested at Utica. The western country progressed, the trude flourished in proportion, new stores were established, the tov\n incicased, elegant houses were built, lots rose in value ; ant! the last brancii was much accelerated by the a- vidity of speculation. This state of things continued until about tlie years 1807-8, ^vlien circumstances began to change. As the people to the t 1 i- i ill 1 / 1 I I ua ^f 3 i 534 TRAVELS IN westward became numerous and wealthy, they began to establish towns in the interior, and these became so many little eniporiuins for supplying the inhabitants with necessaries and receiving their produce. In addition to this, the current of the market began to change altogether ; the lakes and the St. Lawrence were found to be a better and more convenient market for the northern and western parts of the state, than the Mohawk and Hudson ; and Montreal engrossed a large share of the commerce heretofore enjoyed by New York, Albany, and Utica. And, to crown the whole, British credit was so cheap in New York, that New York credit partook of it, and goods were brought into the market, in all directions, through the country, often on a credit of from 6 to 18 months. The business was overdone; many of the country dealers were ruined; the town-merchants lost a great deal of monej' ; and ihe whole country suffered by the re-action. The single circumstance of ^300 debtors advertising tor the benefit of the insolvent law, is a commentary upon the subject, to which I have not a word to add ; and I now proceed to enforce an opinion already promnlgated in this work. The foreign trade is gone, never to be recalled to its former state. A new era has commenced in the United States. Britain is destined to be no longer the manufacturer for America; the seeds of manufactures are sown throughout the country, never to be rooted out ; and, so far from the interior being dependent ui)on the cities as heretofore, the cities will, in all probability, become de- pendent upon it. A friend of mine, lately, in adverting to this subject, well expressed it; " the cities have had their da^^ and nawjor the country ^ 1 am of the same opinion; and though I am well aware that it is by no means gratifying to many v/ho live in the cities, yet I consider it a solemn duty to state it. Those who avail themselves of the advantages to be derived from the new order of things, will in my opinion do weli; while those who continue to hang by a precarious ibreign trade, or depend on it* reanimatioji, will, I fear, find themselves disappointed. But the citizens of Utica have already begun to avail themselves of the advantages to be derived from the new order of things ; and a good deal of the surplus capital of Albany, and New York, has also been invested in manufactures, in and about this j)lacc for which they are already getting in some cases a handsome re- turn ; perhaps not so great ais that to be soBietiincs derived from i I • NEW YORK. 533 i loitign voyage, but much more certain, and with very little risk ot losing the cupllul; while "orders in council," and " blockad- iiic iiecrecs," with other vexatious restrictions of trade on the high seas are so fur ironi being injurious, that they are absolutely ad- vantageous. Tliere are in Oneida county three glass-works in operation j one of iLrown glass, one of cylinder glass, and one for glass bottles. Four paper-mills have been recently erected within eight miles of Utica. One cotton-factory is in operation, and three or four are erecting, besides several woollen factories, ami there arc consider able bleach-fields and dye-works. Iron-works and forges are nu- merous, and there are in the county 20 tan-works, several hat- liictories, St fulling-mills, and 10 carding-miithincs. There are three branches that are likily to flourish in an emi- nent degree: glass, woollens, and cotton; and they will all be of great importance to Utica. For glass the materials are all on the ^pot. Sheep, both of the common and merino breeds, are in- creasing in all directions, and cotton can be brought from New York by a water conveyance, except a short portage of 1 5 miles Irom Albany to Skenectady. The cotton trade will, 1 think, flourish beyond every other here. It is now so simplified, and machinery is applied to it with such effect, that little labour is required ; and the labourers daily arriving from Europe, at New- York, can be transported here in a few days, at a small expence. The raw material can always be had nearly one-half lower than in Europe, and such is the cheapness of living, and so plenty the hands, that labour will not be a great deal dearer. The trade with the back country is secure to a very large extent, and provisions must be for ever cheap at Utica. Utica is the capital of Oneida county, and consists at present of about 400 houses, containing 2000 inhabitants. It began to settle about 23 years ago, as already mentioned, but it has been principally built since the year 1796, and two-thirds of it since 1800. The buildings arc mostly of wood, painted white, but a f!ood many have lately been built of brick, and some few of stono. The public buildings are four places for public worship, two of them elegant, an academy, clerk's ofllce, &c. ; and there are six taverns, 15 stores, and 2 breweries. There ure three printing -office^ ; viz. one for books, and two lor newspapers, one book- store, one bindery, two mo»oc<.i> lijanu- W ..i 536 TRAVELS IS Tactorics, and one manufactory of musical instruments ; tliree nia- sons, a number of brick-makers anil car})enter.s, four cabinet and chair-makers, two coopers, seven smiths and naiiors, two tin- smiths, ono copper-smith, four silver-smiths and watch -niiikors, three tanners and curriers, three saddlers, three shoe-makers, o\u lurrier, six butchers, two bakers, three hatters, four ta^'lors, foui painters, and four druggists. The village lots are from 50 to 60 feet front, and 100 to 130 feet deep, and sell for from 200 to 1000 dollars. 'J Ix; <»ut-lots contain 12 acres, and 5000 dollars are asked for them. House rent for mechanics is about GO to 100 dollars, wood ] dollar 25 cents per cord, flour 8 dollars per barrel, potatoes 25 cents per bushel, turnips 31 cents, cabbages 4 cents each, beans 62 cents per bushel, onions 75 cents, beef, mutton, and veal five cents j)er lb., venison 4 cents, fowls 9 cents each, ducks 25 cents. geese 50 cents, turkeys 62 cents, butter 12jj cents per lb., cheese 7 cents, hog's lard 6 cents, beer 5 dollars per barrel, whiskey 45 cents per gallon, boarding 2 dollars SO cents per week. The government of the village is vested in a board of five trus- tees, chosen annually by the inhabitants. There are five scliools, at which are taught all the various branches of education, which is pretty well attended to ; and there is a very good seminary for young ladies. The expence of tuition is about from two to four dollars per quarter. The commerce of Utica consists of dry goods, groceries, crock- cry, hardware, and cotton, im})orted ; and of grain, flour, pro- visions, ashes, &c. exported. The chief part of the comraerce is with New York, but it is said a considerable smuggling trade has of late been carried on with Canada. Wheat is 1 dollar 12 cents per bushel, corn ^^ cents, barley 75 cents, ashes nominal, cotton 21 cents, horses 50 to 100 dollars, cows 1 5 to 22 dollars, sheep 2 to 2 dollars 50 cents. Lands on the turnpike, in the neighbourhood, sell for from 50 to 100 dollars; further off 40 to 50; but the. lands in both vi!- Uge and country have greatly depreciated in the money v»lw. The view of the country round has been already noticLxi ; tbt whole is healthy, but the v inttrs are cold and severe. NEW YORKi 537 i CHAPTER CV. General remrtrhf — View of the northrrn ^;flr»/5 of New Yor/c,— SackeCs harbourj — Lake Ontaiiu, — Adjacent countty^ — Internal Navigation. 1 HE reader will perceive, that since I entered upon the western country, at the top of the Allci^nny mountains (page 306,) I have travelled over upwards of 1700 miles, making observations all the way, with every degree of njiiiuteness in my power, and I have endeavoured, as concisely as 1 could, to give a general view ol' that very important and extensive region. Besides the infor- mation which I personally procined, I have frequently availed myself of authentic information from others. Having received a communication from Mr. Sacket, of Jamaica, Long Island, re* laiive to the northern parts of this state, I shall here avail myself of the valuable information it contains, in taking a brirf view of that part of the country. In tlie year 1799 Mr. Sacket made a tour thrcugh the nor- thern parts of the state, then an entire wilderness, to the banks of Lake Ontt^rio, and next year he made a purchase of 700 acres of land on the bunks of the lake, at a publip sale in New York, for 156 dollars 25 cents. In the fall of 1800 he took a journey tu the land, in company wiih several men whom he had engaged to cut down the timber, and remained about two months without, shelter, exposed to rain, cold, and hunger. The ensuing sj>ring they went there again to burn the timber cut down the preceding fall, to plant some grain, and to erect a saw-mill. Iti that year (1801) three families went to reside on the place, and there were no other settlers in all the country, except one family 10 miles diiitant, one H miles distant, and some few farther off, at the Jistance of 40 or 50 miles. Previous to this period a great degree of prejudice existed a- gaiast the lake shore; it wasrepntetl subject to fevers, and other- wise unhealthy, and Mr. Sacket's new settlement excited a good deal of curiosity in the minds of that most enterprising people, the New Englandcrs, who were traversing the country in all di- rections in (juest of new lands. The first fall Mr. Sacket had from 10 to 30 of these people almost every night, to partake of 1 * . i' i* 538 TRAVELS IN his fare, aiul liMln^iniirs on llie ^rounil. 'flic next sprino; tlioy re- newed their visits, and (iiulin^ Mr. Suckct makinj^ siiccfssful pro- imeis with his inlinit scttkincnt, they threw asiih' their fears, ;in(l rapidly hmij^du up the surrounthn"^ coinitry, and moved on it with their laniihes. I'he ensiiin-T winter Mr. Saeket describes ns the most dreary he ever experienced ; tlie sun or compass directed their travels thn)ii'j;h the woods ; there were no roatls, no travellers, no news, and tl)ey were cur off from all conmiunication with society, except « few Indian*, whose confidence Mr. Sacket was so fortunate ns to secure, aiul they were very serviceable in brinjfini; venison, fish, wild fowl, cranberries, &c. They were an inoffensive, frioiul- ly, and obli{^in<^ people ; but they would frccpiently indulge themselves in a drunken frolic under circuuistanccs truly singular, indicative of a mixture of folly and good sense. They would dc- posite in Mr. Socket's hands all their guns, knives, tomahawks, trinkets, &c., and then the men would get into tlie hiirhest state of intoxication, and so continue for two days, while the vvonien would remain perfectly sober. As soon as they had finisheci their frolic, the ladies would set to it in their turn, and continue lor a like time in the most brutal state of intoxication, during which time the men would never taste liquor. Sometimes a party of nun or women would come alone, in which case, if they iiad a mind for a frolic, they would take it by turns, one half remaining solier while the other was drunk. Mr. Jacket completely succeeded with his settlement, and it now contains one of the handsomest villages on the lake, called Sacket's Harbour, on account of being situated on a pretty little harbour, by far the best on the lake. The village is situated at the east end of I^ake Ontario, about IG miles from the river St. Lawrence, and consists of a number of large and elegant modern-built houses and out-houses, miles, with which place there is a {rreut intercourse : and as soon as packet-boats are e>:tai)lishod on t!ie lake, this will be the best place from whence to embark to visit the falls of Niagara, distant about 200 miles. The trade at tliis place ha« been increasin'j: evi'ry year since its first settlement. There are now upwards of forty vessels on the lake, and the quantity of wheat, flour, beef, pork, ashes, and lumber that is annually exported to IMontreal would almost exceed belief. But the fair trader is very nuich tmnoyed by smuggling, which is a great and a growing evil. The great extent of custom- house districts on the line between the states and Canada, and tie want of small craft, properly manned, to asiist the officers of tl,e customs in the discharge of their duty, gives a facility to a Tiolation of the laws wiiich the officers are wholly unable to pre- vent; and the practice of smuggling is becoming so habitual, that it will probably give much trouble to the general govern- ment to prevent it, and it may in fact be prodiictive of confu- sion and bloodshed. The district of country now composing the counties of Jefferson, Lewis, and St. Lawrence, which in the yeju* J 800 was an entire wilderness, containing only a few scattering families, now contains a most repectable settlement of 29,47 1 souls, enjoying all the com- forts and convenicncies of life, having villages, court-hence of completing; it, wouUI be an exceeiling great burden u|)on the present genera- tion, and they would receive no return; forthonp;h be^un now, the man is not alive that would see it completed.* To confer a benefit on posterity is a laudable principle, but the great stimidus to iiiiinkind is present advantage; and it is to be expected that they will avail themselves, in the first instance, of natural advantages au the case, iiitcrn.il ti.ivigation will bo a subject of great importance ; but the ta'iuls of tcrnal canals ; and, in many instances, lumber, plaster of Paris, and limestone. Such considerations will probably induce the projectors of canals to look more to the internal accommodation of the country than of single ports, and in every case to avail themselves, in the first in- stance, of what nature has done, so os to lessen the labour, ond pro- duce an immediate advantaj^c. CHAPTER CVI. Leave Utica, — Herlimcr, — Little FallSy — Nose. November ISth. The day clear and pleasant. I set out at 1 o'clock, aud crossing the Mohawk river by a good wooden bridge, I travelled by a turnpike rond, five miles, to a toll-bar. The bot' toms here are fertile; but the lands at a distance appear rough, and M good many pine-trees are to be seen on the brows ofthehilU. To the next toll-bar is 1 8 miles, in which space the valley contracts, the hills become more lofiy and more liarrcu ; but the valley on the river, about a mile wide, is rich land, abounding witli handsome set- "'i' cotton and w NEW YORK. 545 ilcmnits. I observed two streams to emerge iVom the hills, and tall into the river on the opposite side. Beyond the second toll -bur the road leads over a lofty bank, near the side of the river, owr which 1 travelled a mile and a half, and then descended to the vil- lage of Herkimer, where I stopped all nif^ht. Herkimer is romantically situated in a jtretty valley, and consists of 52 houses, containin/^ about HGO inhabitants. It has a church, .i court-liousc, i taverns, and !i stores; and issues 2 weekly newspapers. FIcrkimer county is well settled. The river hills are barren ; but the interior of the country is said to be pretty fertile. Thursday, 14th. The morning was cloudy, cold, and disagreea- ble. About half a mile to the east of the village I passcil a rapid stream called West Canada creek. After crossing it the roail rises to the top of a bank elevated more than 100 feet above the river, at* lording a fine view of the country, which continues? miles to Little Falls. The valley is narrow, but well settled ; the road good, with a hard gravelly bottom, and the adjoining land«i stony ; but tlic wheat fields being green, exhibited a pleasing appearance. As r approached the falls, I observed the valley to contract till the hills appeared almost to close, and the banks were singularly rough and stony. Above the falls I crossed a canal, handsomely faced with hewn stone, and I again crossed it close by the lucks, as I entered the village, and passed on to Morgan's tavern, a hand- some freestone building. While breakfast was preparing I took a view of the village and canal ; and on my return I got the following account of the place from my discreet jandlord : The village and land adjoining belongs to a family in England, of the name of Ellis. The settlement commenced about 23 years ago. The village now consists of 50 houses, many of them built oi' stone, 6 stores^ 4 taverns, church, school-house, I flour-rniil, 1 trip- hammer, 1 fulling-mill, 1 saw-mill, and 1 cording-machine. The fall of water within three quarters of a mile is about 50 feet, and there is room and water enough for 100 mills. The village lots are 100 feet by 60, and arc let on a perpetual lease of 3 dollnrs p?r .".•;- num. The water-falls are reserved by the proprietors for mill-scats, except some that are on short lea.«e. The proprietors have also !■ or 5 farms on short lease; but the}* are of no great value. Thev olTer to sell the whole for i'JOOO dollars, which would probably be i good bargain, as this is a very favourable situation for ebtul)li>li- 'ii|i cotton and woollen inaiiufacturcs. h i. I ■> ::, \i l!^ 646 THAVILS IN Tlie cnnal wuh cut about 18 years ago. It wan originally con- Ktructcdof wood; but that falling to decay* it was rebuilt of stone 8 years ago. There arc 8 KM.'k6 at iIuk place. Tlie toll has been lessened within these few ycarkf on account of the waggons tukiii^ away the trudi* from the canal. It in at present 1 dollar 2.*; cents per ton. Went Cniiiula creek, which I crowed, rines on the ditiding ridge between the waters of the St. Lawrence and those of tlic Hudson. It pasties through very high lands and brings down great (juantitiesof ice in the spring. When brcakfabt was announced, I went into the parlour, when- a very hantlsonie young lady was seated at the breakfast-table, to pour out the tea ; and the articles In-fore her were so numerous that I could not help taking an inventory of them; the bare in< sertioii of which will show that the inhabitants ol the hack xvoodf, as they have been called, arc not (piite ho nuich in the savai^r stale as some late tourists would itavc us imagine. 1 lere we had table, table-cloth, tea-tray, tca-}x>ts, milk-pot, howl:), cups, sugar-tongs, tea-spmms, castors, plates, knives uiul forks, tea, sugiu', cream, bread, butter, steak, eggs, cheese, crackers, potatoes, bc>ets, salt, vinegar, and pepper. There's a bill of fare that might suit a prince ; and in a situation so romantic, that it would suit a hermit. It is new too, and quite in the back grouttd, being more than 200 miles from New York. While engaged at breakfast, my speculations naturaUv turned on Dr Adam Smith's chapter on the division of lab'.mr. 1 low many hands behoved to be employed before I could he sup- plietl with suck a breakfast I The view of the fair hani^^ engag- ed in pouring out the tea was no small additional reU^'n ; and the moderation of the charge surprised me — it was only 25 cents. As I passed through the village, I observed 8or,,e masons bniki- ing a stone arch, the first I have seen buildi;»;g in America. Hall' a mile below the village, the road comes close to the river side, and is carvictl over n lurge hollow a wooden bridge, from which there is a tuxe view of the lower part of the falls. Below this there arc huge nmss»;s of perpendicular rocks on each side, and the whole bears evident marks of Imving been cut througli by the river; a proof, among numberless others, of the great nn- tiquity of this continent, and tliat a vast portion of it must h.w iJ.n oriirinallv covered by water. The valley immediatel: l)etn originally NRW YORK. 547 .ibuvc tbeiie falls miut have bern originally a liike, t'rum wliicii the surplus water wouUl be precipitated over the rocki, and so (urni a large tall. The oi)eration of tlie water would of course wear ilown the roclvH, or, to use Volney'ii expression, would sa^ a passage through theni, which, in the progress of ages, hns pro> (liiced the eflect that we now see. VVitliout dipping deeply into the (icience of geology, whieh tuhnits of sueli a variety of opinion, It is sufficient, in a practical work of thik nature, to draw oceii> Moiially Homc inferences from the ap|K'arances on ttie surfucv of the globe. The inferences to Ik' drawn lw?re correspond exactly wiih tijose drawn from a view of the ert'ects produced by ihe fills of Ningara, pages 511 8c 512 of this volinne. Ik^yond the falls, the bottoms on the river spread out to the mual breadth of alMiut a mile, and arc well cultivated, 'llic river is navigaljle, and the kloping declivities of the hills present many handsome views. Beyond the fails tlie road passes through a low level tract ol land, about 7 miles, when it rises to an eminence of at least '200 feet, from whence there is a charming birtl's eye view of the va!- lies below, and of the hills, wootLs and cultivated fields at a dis- tance ; iDAt\y of which had been sown with wheat| and presented a cheering, verdant prospect. After descending from this eminen<^e, I croeieed East Canada creek, a very rapid stream, having numerous mills upon iL On the east siile of the creek, 1 per ^^ived a machine for beating clay to make bricks. Rising again i -a a high bank, I stopped at a tavern to feed my horse. Here I met the Utica stage, and saw a young gentleman, two days from New York, distant upwards of 220 miles. I was informed that this was the frontier in the lime of the American war, where it raged with great fury.. Our landlord, a German, said he carried arms during the war, and, should his adopted country's cause require it, he was ready to turn out again, though 64 years of age. Leaving the tavern, I passed a rapid stream, where I observed asaw-miU, and a hemp or fl;ix-mill, and, five miles below, I saw the Palatine bridge across the Mohawk river. The road proceeds about 4 miles through a low bottom of stiff cl.ty, and at dark f passed a curious projecting point called the Nose, two miles from which I stopjied at the house of M'Connolly, an intelligent Iri;h- Ban, from whom I received tht following information. 0\^ ■ i1 . ■;. 548 TRAVELS IN 'J'lir npprnranct? of tlic country iilong the rivrr, to the eibt- \ynn\y ih pretty iiiucli like that I pusucilovcr; but the button) lumU liitlicr improve in <|uality. To the south the htnd Ih i-levatcil ami rough, nnd to the nortii very high and rocky. The banks ol'ilie hilU are pretty much stripped of their timber. A lead-mine hii> been recently discovered on the south side of the river, near Caii- ajoharie, and it has every appearance of being productive and valuable. Tlie proprietor has sold 4 acres of ground on which it i.s situated, at 1000 dollarit per acre ; and a company is forming tu work it. Iron ore ih tbund in the hills to the north of the tuvtrii. 'I'lie timber here is generally of a small growth, ond conbi>ts of beech, licndock, and pine. The country is liealthy : but lli(> climate goes to great extremes, the summers being very hot, and the winters very coltl. The prevailing wiuils are from the wtst- iiorlh-west and nortli -north-east ; but they blow most frequently «l()wn the river.* The greater part of the storms are from the north-east. In tlic hills, about two miles distant from the tavern, there arc a great many rattle-snakes. The landlord killed 15 on one stone. They were generally about 8 or 9 inches long. A- niong the number was a female, having IG rattles; and, on dis- secting her, they found in her belly 16 eggs and a striped squirrel. M'heii killecl, she was in the act of swallowing a toad. They al- ways make a noise when a person is near, and consequently are not dangerous. In sunnncr, tliey are here a good deal troubled V, iih flies and niusquetoes. There arc a few fish in the river. The prmluee of the country is wheat, rye, corn, oats, hay, po- tatoes, some hemp, and a great deal of flax. Albany is the mar- ket, and the produce is mostly sent by waggons. Uncleared land, mar the river, sells at from 20 to 30 dollars per acre. Cultivated farms arc not for sale. Fifteen thousand dollars had been oflcrcd lor a farm of 505 acres, and refused. Labourers have from 100 (o ] 25 dollars per annum, and their board. Mechanics about 1 dollar to 1 dollar 25 cents ytcv day, and their board. Cotton and woollen manufactures are establishing in many places. A manufac- tory of cotton and linen is about to be establislied at Cauglina- waga, with a capital of 30,000 dollars, which is all subscribed, 'ihe inhabitants consist mostly of fanners and mechanics. There • 'It appi-nrs »o mc thot tlic win.ls i^hirh blow' down tlie river are a continuation of the current of air wliioh blows over the western country ; but it is now evidently aflfcct- nl liy the high lands, and puts on ihc appearance of the north-west winds to tlic e«« nt' iho mountains. NBW YORK. 540 are pretty good ecIiooU ; but education is not so much attended to as it ought to bo. There is a settlement of Scots people nt Johnstown, und another at Uroadulbin. Hiey have gooti hchools, and are esteemed very sober and industrious. On hearing the latter part of this intbrmntion, I rcsolvetl to change my route, to visit my countrymen ; and my landlord ad- vised me to call on Daniel M'lntyrc, at Hroadulbin, who was one of the iirst settlers, and would be ready to give every iufor- mntion. - f- ' CHAPTEll CVII. Johnstmcn, — Broadalbw^ — Milton^- -lialhton Sjnitigs, IN the morning, my obliging landlord gave mc directions as to the road, and I net out at sun rise, the weather being clear, with hard frost. - ' To the north of the tarern, there is a low bottom about a quarter of a mile broad, termiiutted by u steep ridge about SOO feet high, from whence water is conveyed in pipes to the house. This ridge' approaches the river as it proceeds westward, close to which it ibrms the ix>int, already mentioned, culled the Nose, from its resemblance to the nose on the human face. The road passes through low and prettj' fertile grounds, near the side of the river, about a mile, to a creek with several mills; and here, in pursuance of my landlord's advice, 1 turned towards Johnstown, distant 4 miles. The road rises by a considerable ascent. On reaching the heights, there arc many fine and cxten- iive views, the moiuitains appearing very distinctly in the bouth« west. The country is pretty well cultivated, but it is bare of limber ; what remains is mostly pine trees. I stopped at a tavern, where I found a number of men assem- bled on some public occasion ; but I could get little information here, and proceeded to the printing-office, where the editor very obligingly answered all my queries. Johnstown contains al)out 60 houses and 500 inhabitants. Itf is the seat of justice of Montgomery county, and has a court- house, jail, an episcopal and presbytorian church, an academy, and 2 printing-ofKccs. There are 9 taverns and 9 stores. Two h 1 r (1. :»■' iK Ui ;h •i'i'^^ ;'!!!;'. 550' YRAVtLS IN doctors nnd H lawyers reside in the town ; the other iiihabitani. arc fj^ncrally mechanics. Johnstown was settled about the tinif of the wnr, and tlic inhabitants are mostly of Scottish and Iri»h extraction. At 3 o'clock I set out for Droadnlbin, distant 7 or 8 mile;). The road passes over hif^h lands, the soil rather sandy. From cvury point by the way there is an extensive view o^ liij{h elevated Jamlo to the north and west, of the Catskill hills to the south ; nnd to the east the vast range of mountains in Vermont appear in lottv majesty. I reached Uroadnlbin near sun-set, and stopping to in- quire for Mr. M'Intyre, I found an old gentleman at the gate en- gaged in a contest with a cow, who seemed determined to have two pumpkins whether he would ur not. Having assisted him to drive off the intruder, 1 woa proceeding with my inquiries, when he told me that he was Daniel M'Intyre. He ordered a boy to take charge of my horse, invited me into the house, and intro- duced me to his family ; and inforipcd me that James would be home presently, when we would get uU the news. Mr. Jumcs M'Intyre soon arrived, and I spent a very pleasant evening with the family. The history of the settlement of Broad- albin was briefly this. Mr. M'Intyre arrived from Broadulbin in Scotland, in the year 1 77.5. In the month of May, the year fol- lowing, his family and five more moved to this place (there being then no settlers between it and Bollston,) when they made a purchase of 1 600 acres of land, at 1 doUnr 69 cents per acre ; and imme- diately commenced clearing and planting. They were all fanner!!, and were pretty successful, until they were involved in the troubles of the war, by the Indians being let loose upon them. But they maintained their ground until the year before the close of the war, when they were obliged to abandon the settlement, and retire to Albany, where tkey continued three years. On their return to the settlement, a few more families joined them, and they have continued to flourish ever since. The township now contains 8238 inhabitant!), of whom about one-third are Scottish; the others arc principally from New England and New Jersey. The area of the township is about 24,000 acres, all arable, except a swamp of about 2000 acres. The soil is loam mixed with sand; and, though it bears no comparison with the western country, it is pretty good for this place. The timber is beech and maple, wkk some pine, hemlock, elm, ash, and bnss>wood. The climat Woman, one c NKW YORK. 55 I II very healthy ; but the winters arc long and severe, commencing the Ut <>t December, nnd continuing till the middle of April. The inhabitantM ure kuber and industrious. They inanutacture the must of their clothing; and there are in the township u paper-mill, an oil-mill, 6 grist-mills, 3 iullingmills, and 2 cnrding-macliines. Sheep farming has been of lute a good deal attended to, and the me- rino breed has been introduced with considerable success. After supper the family assembled to prayers, and the whole m'us conducted in the primitive mode practised by the |H*asantry of iScot- Itmd, so beautifully described in Burns' Cotter's Siuurdny Ni^lit, of which I shall transcribe the last Stanza, nnd close tlie trnnsnc- lions of the day. Tltcn kneeling down to Ileavtn'* Kteraal Kiiig, 'Vht laint, the r«(licr, and the hiisliand pray* : * Hope jipririgv exulting on triumphant win^,' Tliat thuk they all shall meet in future day^ : 'riiete ever ba»k in uncreated ray*, No more to sigh cir thed tlie bitter tear, Together hymning tlieir Creator's praise, In such society yet still more dear, While circling time moves round in an eternal sphere ! November 16. The last evening was very cold, and this morn- ing there was hard frost. I prepared to take my leave of my hos- pitable entertainers ; but I could not get away till atler breakfast. The old man recommended me particularly to call upon his son, the comptroller, at Albany ; and James accompanied mc to see Mr* Proudfoot, the clergyman, of Scots descent, and married to a Scots woman, one of the " bonnie lasses" of Ayrshire. Mr. Proudfoot is agreeably settled, and to his ministerial charge joins the very laudable occupation of teaching an academy, a plan which every country gentleman should imitate. Mrs. Proudfoot told me Mr' Law, her father, with his family, were comfortably settled about six miles distant. From this place to Milton is 12 miles, the lands but indifferent ; but the views magnificent, particularly of the Vermont mountains, which can be seen at the distance of 60 or 70 miles. Milton is a small place, consisting of a few frame houses only ; but, being pain t- eil white, they look neat : and the town is adorned with a very pret • ly church and steeple. The soil is good round Milton, which accounts for the handsome appearance of the houses ; and a quakei- meeting-house denoted . * r I. « ► il Hi 552 TRAVELS IN that tlic grounil was partly occupied by some of those sagacious people. Beyoiul this the soil is very saiidy ami barren, with pine trees of a small growth ; but the people seem determined to make amends lor the sterility of the soil in another way ; for passing a creek 1 saw nn elegant new building of seven stories high, which had been re- cently erecteil for the manufacture of woollen cloth. From thencr the road winds through the woods, and the soil continues poor all the way to Ballston, which I reached in the evening. I took a view of the town as I passed through it ; and it is soon seen, as it contains 70 dwelling-houses only. It lies in a hollow, and the spring is at the lower end of it, near a small creek. Tlu houses are mostly built of wood, and some of the boarding •house- are very handsome. One is uncommonly superb, and is said to have cost upwards of bO,000 dollars. Soon after I reached the village, I went to see the spring. It is inclosed by a railing, the interior being handsomely paved with stone, and the water is secured from all filth by a metallic tube oi about 18 inches diameter, elevated a few feet above the top of the spring, which rises copiously, with a boiling motion, and the sur- plus water passes off by a horizontal pipe. 'J'he water was quite a- greeableto my taste, and produced an exhilarating effect upon the spirits. It emits a light smell, but not unpleasant, and is copiously impregnated with fixed air, or carbonic acid gas The medicinal virtues of these waters have of late attracted much attention, nnd Ballston has become a place of fashionable resort in the summer season. The general effect produced by the use of the waters is purgative, diuretic, tonic, and exhilarating. They are therefore recommended in dyspepsia in all its complicated forms, gravel, rheumatisms, diseases of the urinary system, cutaneous erup- tions, dropsy, E^rophula, worms, and some cases of fevers. They have also been extolled in consumptions ; but their power is very doubtful in that disease, to which indeed it is obvious that the only efllcacious remedy must be by breathing ; and it is t^be wislied that the faculty would turn their attention to it more in that point of view. I have heard of extraordinary cures being performed bj living among cows, and am pretty well satisfied that a specific for ulcerated lungs, when not too far gone, will be ultimately found, and successfully administered by inspiration. A highly oxidated .state of the atmosphere we know to be against the patient, and the NEW YORK. 55.1 air arising from the decomposition of bnlniy substances is in his favour. But those hints are by the by, and I return to the ana- lysis of this celebrated spring. But who shall aj^rec when doctors differ ? Some experimentalists afllrm they contain three times their bufk of fixed air, while othors say they do not contain one- third of this quantity. This difference, being more than 200 per cent. ! is much too large for me to reconcile ; so I shall content my- self with stating their probable component parts, without affixing the proportions. . j_ J S S ' S Tlic component parts of water. Oxygen gas. j Carbonic acid. Carbonate of soda. Muriate of soda. Carbonate of iron. Carbonate of lime. Carbonate of magnesia. I called on Mr« Bix>wn, editor of one of the newspapers, and he introduced iqe to a Mr. Mcintosh, from Crieff, in Scotland, who told me he was very well acquainted with my father's relations. He mentioned a fact which I knew before, that the original name was Graham, and mentioned that some of our family, of the panic of Graliam, were settled in New York. From these two gentlemen I got all needful iuformatipn, from which I shall transcribe a few ad- ditional noti^s. Ballston is situated in latitude i^S^ north, and is 28 miles from Albany. There are two roads, one by Schenectady, the other by Waterford ; and it makes a very agreeable jaunt to go the. one way and return the other. Schenectady is one of the finest inland cities ia America. On the other road is the pleasant village of Water- ford, and the Cohoes falls. The village is mostly supported by the visitors to the springs, so that, except in the summer season, it is but a dull place, Board- ing at the principal houses is 8 dollars per week ; but there are small- er hoiises having inferior accommodations, at 4- dollars. There is an academy and a library in the villiige, and besides taverns and boarding-houses, there are five dry-goods and grocery stores. There are two ptiblic papers iskqed weeKIy, of which the one circu- li^tes 700, the other 400. ' The prevailiiig winds are from the north-west, ai^d the winters are cold. Saratoga springs are seyen miles to the northwartj, and are cs- tcfmed stronger than tboie of Ballston. 70 'M; ' 11 1 IS * ( , . i k ■ I I 554 TRAVEIiS IN CHAPTER CVIII. Watafordi — Cohoes Jails, — Albanj/. November nth. There had been a great deal of rain last night and this morning; but it cleared up about 1 1 o'clock^ and I set out at 12. The land in the immediate neighbourhood was poor, and continued so durmg the first three miles of my journey. I pass- ed a methodist meeting-house, after which the land improves, ihe soil being mostly clay, and the timber partly oak and beech. The land is level, and ihe farms good ; the farm-houses bearing testi- mony to the accumulation of wealth. A mile further on the soil becomes poor, and the houses in their turn bear witness to the po- verty of the inhabitants. Two miles through these lands there is an opening, and a most extensive view to the eastward. Ten miles 'rom Ballston 1 passed a stream of water which nobody could tell me the name of: after this I passed through a farm on the side of a hill, two miles from which I came to a tavern, where I stopped to feed my horse. Leaving this, the land still continued poor and sandy, the timber mostly pine trees ; but the settlements are pretty thick for five miles, to a little village, and both soil and settlements imprdve for four miles more to Waterford, where I took up my lodgings at the Union coffee-house. Waterford was laid out about the year 1783, and is handsome- ly situated above the confluencp of the Mohawk and Hudson rivers. The streets are regular, crossing one another at right angles; and it consists of about 130 houses, containing about 1000 inhabitants. The houses are generally good, gome of them elegant ; they are part- ly frainic and partly brick, but the taste for brick predominates. The public buildings arc 2 churches and a school-house ; and there are 4" taverns, 25 stores, and 1 newspaper. The inhabitants of Wa- terford consist chiefly of mechanics and their families ; and there are two clergymen, three doctors, three schoolmasters and ten law- yers. The village lots are 65 feet in front, by 130 deep, and sell for from 100 to 2500 dollars. Boarding is 2 dollars 50 cents per week, by the year : the prices of provisions are nearly the same as at Al- bany. There are several mills on the Mohawk river below the falls, one of which is near the confluence of the Mohawk and Hudson. i :} NEW YORK." 555 A company has recently been incorporated to carry on manufac- tures at this place, and they propose to make every article for which they find a demand. The country round is handsome and very healthy, and the soil is possessed of every variety from good to bad. The price of land is from 2 dollars SO cents to 7/5 dollars per acre. Good wood land sells as high as that in the improved state. The Hudson is navigable to this place in vessels of 50 tons bur- den, and the legislature of New York have of late granted 45,000 dollars to improve the navigation between Waterford and Troy. There is a handsome bridge over the Hudson at this place. November 18th. The morning was clear, with hard frost; the wind north-west. Previous to leavinff Waterford I rode to the middle of the bridge, and had a view of the river and surrounding scenery. The bridge has six piers, and is handsomely built of wood. The river is rapid, and the junction with the Mohawk is seen a little below. There are a number of islands on the west side, and the town of Lansingburg is handsomely situated on the east side. The bottom lands are good i but the country soon swells out into high hills, of which the sides are poor, aiid covered with pine wood. As I returned, I kept along the banks of the Mohawk, where I observed the current very rapid, and the soil poor and sandy. A mile and a half from Waterford there is a bridge across the river. On approaching it the road passes through a bed of black slate, which seems to indicate a stratum of coal below. About a quarter of a mile above the bridge, the Cohoes falls appear, and, from the bridge fronting them, there is a very fine view. I stood a while to contemplate it, but my admiration was lost in the rrcoUection. of the amazing falls of Niagara. The river is here about 250 yards wide, and the falls are perjiendicular, but some parts are broken, and the rocks are to be seen through them. At the end of the bridge I paid a toll of 6^ cents ; and close by the toll-bar I perceived the nine mile stone from Albany. The road proceeds close by the river side, the hills being pret- ty lofty to the right, the soil indifferent, but the road excellent. Six miles above Albany, on the opposite side of the river, is Troy, a handsome village, mostly built with brick. Towards Al- bany I passed an elegant house, the seat of Mr. Van Rensselaer, patron of the city ; and passing through well-improved fields, I arrived at 11 o'clock, when I took up my lodgings at the coffer-: ■ liouse in State-slreet. ■ 1 ' ■,1' 1 ■Huil bbO TRAVELS IX My tour of discavay being completed, f had no very im- portant inturmation to receive at Alhutiy ; but I still continued my journal, and Mr. Fellows of Gci.ev.i having favoured me with letters of introduction to Mr. 8outiiwick and Mr. North, these two gcHtlenien fehoucd me a great deal of attention, and obligingly answered all my inquiries. In obedience to the request of my friend Mr. M'Intyre, I culled on his son, the comptroller, and he also showed me much attention. I was quite pleased with my visit. Alijany is the seat of government of the state of New York, and is situated on the west side of the Hudson river, at the head of tide water, ISO miles from the sea. It runs nearly a mile along tiic river, and about half a mile back from it. The city ii* J'-'idcd into streets, some of which are spacious, but others rather narrow jiiid irregular. They are however pretty convenient, and there is a line of excellent wharfs and warehouses. The houses amount to about 1300, and the inhabitants to nearly 10,000. The houses are mostly built of brick, and many of them are elegant. The state- house stands on an elevated situation at the head of State'Strect, and is a very handsome building, with most splendid and convenient apartments for the legislature to meet in. The old state-house ie also in State-street, and is occupied by the different public offices. The other public buildings are the arsenal, powder-house, city library, 3 banks, 10 churches, 2 market houses, 2 masonic lodges, a theatre, and Cook's reading-room, an institution probably better supplied with newspapers, and other periodical publications, than any other in the United States. The city is well supplied with water. There are two excellent springs three miles to the westward, from whence it is conveyed in pities, to every part of the city. Lots in the principal streets are as high as in New York, and the rent of houses and stores is in proportion. This being the great mart, in which the trade of an exten^ive back country centres, it is well supplied with provisions ; but the outlet to tlie great commercial city, New York, is so easy, by the tine river Hud.son, that all articles which con be easily ship- ped, arc kept prclty high. Flour is about 10 dollars per barrel ; beef 6 dollars ; pork 5 dollars per cwt. ; bacon 12 cents per lb.; fowls V2i each; gccso 25 ; turkeys 62 j cyder 1 dollar 50 cents per barrel; beer 3 to 10 dollars, according to quality; porter 7 dol- lars 25 cents. Board from 2 to 4 dollars. House-rent for me- <4ianic8 20 to GO dollars KBW YORK. 557 The principal manufactures at Albany are tliose of grain, brow- ing and distilling. There arc no manufactories of cloth in the city, but there are several in the neighbourhood, and there is u dispusi- tion in the citizens to encourage tliem, though apparently ngainst their interest, the trade of the city being almost wholly commercial. The principal trade is by the river, on which is sent down grain and provision*!, timber, malt-liquors, and spirits ; and they receive in return groceries, dry-goods, hardware, and crockery, to sup- ply a great part of the country. American manufactured gloss, however, begins to make a prominent appearance in the warehouse ; and they will, no doubt, feel the advantage of other articles of American manufacture soon. Albany, from its situation, must be always a place of extended commerce. At present it suffers by the redaction of an overstrained foreign commerce, but tliat wilt be but temporary. Internal manufactures and commerce, being once organized, will more than compensate for the loss of the other. The citizens of Albany are very mixed. The original settlement wns by the Dutch, and their descendants form a very prominent part of the society. Of Scottish settlers there are a great many, and the rest are principally New Englanders. In such an assem- blage, we may naturally look for industry and enterprise, and a general attention to education and the improvement of the mind, all of which are yery perceptible in the citizens. There are good mechanics in all the different branches ; and there are 10 clergymen, 20 doctors, and 45 lawyers. The schools are numerous ; the h- brary and reading-room have been already noticed. Two newspa- pers are published, each twice a week, which have a pretty exten- sive circulation. That the place is healthy, appears in the counte- nances of the ladies, many of whom are handsome, with beautiful florid complexions. That it is cold in winter, is indicated by the general use of stoves, the hard frost in the ground, and the appear- ance of snow ; so, for fear of being storm-staid^ 1 shall close this •hapter, and hurry off to New York. I.; CHAPTER CIX. North Bivjr Steam Boat, — Highlands, — Stony Point, — New Yorl^. November 20th. My anticipations were realized ; there was i considerable fall of sno'^ this morning. I engaged a passage for : mm\ 558 TRAVELS IN my horse by one of the packets, fare 4 dollars, exclusive of board ; and for myself by the steam-boat, fare 7 dollars, including board; and, getting on board of that elegant conveyance, we started from the wharf at 9 o'clock. The snow continued to fall, and the weather was very hazy, so that we could not enjoy the view on the river, but we had a very comfortable view in the boat. The cabin was sufficiently large to accommodate 80 or 100 people; the births were neatly mounted with drapery, and contained good clean bed- ding; there was a good stove in the room ; our company, though not numerous, were sociable and agreeable; and our captain kept a most excellent table. 1 should mention that this was the North river steam^boat, captain Roorbach, and to that gentleman's po- liteness I was indebted for a variety of information regarding this river. Four other steam-boats were upon the river, but it was sup- posed that two of them would be stopped, as they were started without the sanction of the patentees. A most superb new boat had just been started by the patentees, Livingston and Fulton, who arc entitled to great praise for their exertions in bringing into ac- tive operation an invention of such importance to the navigation of the American inland waters. The banks of the river are nearly the same as above Albany, for SO miles, to Hudson ; the soil is pretty good, and the settlements thick on both sides; The river is a noble stream, augmented, as it proceeds, by a gi'eat number of tributary streams on each side. Towards night, we were four miles below Poughkeepsie, and the captain, thniking it too dark to run on, came to anchor, and re- mained during the night. November 21st. The morning was cold and cloudy, with a north-west wind ; and a good deal of snow lay on the ground. We got under weigh at 6 o'clock. At 7 we were opposite New- burgh, a good landing on the west side, and five miles beyond this, we readied the highlands, through which we sailed 20 miles. Here the banks are steep and very romantic, in many places re- iiembling the scenery on the Ohio ; but there is a vast difference in the fertility of the soil. On the Ohio it is rich, with a most luxu- riant profusion of timber. Here it is poor, and the timber is small in proportion. Each river, however, has its peculiar beauties. We passed a number of cascades issuing from the hills. At Stony Point, the remains of an old fort arc still to be seen, in a very coni- niauding situation. Here the riyer makes a sharp turn to the east' and the place was pointed out where the Americans had a chain KEW YORK. byo across in the time of war, which we were informcil was broken by the British ships. The river appears here like a small lake, and being land*locked on all sides by lofty hills, forms a romantic and lingular view. Soon after this, we emerged from among the mountains. When we approached the low lands, we saw a number of very handsome seats. The land on the east side is low, and appears fertile. To the eastward a bay is perceived, which appears like a continuance of the river, while the real channel is apparently lost among the mountains. The west bank continues high, though cnltivated a considerable way down. At length, however, it be- comes a craggy precipice, almost perpendicular, and upwards of 500 feet high. The scenery is altogether very grand, and in sum- mer, when the fields and woods are in blossom, sailing on this river, by the steam-boat, must be delightful. There are good turnpike roads on each side of the river, and there are very thick settlements all the way between New York and Albany. The principal towns on the cast side are: Kinderhook Hudson Redhook Rhynbeck Poughkecpsie Fishkill Peekskill Inhabitants. 250 4000 500 InliabitantSb On the west side, New Baltimore Cochsakia KaUkill 2000 Kingston Newburg i We passed the Jersey line on the west sitle, and, soon after, the river which separates York Island from the main land. At five o'clock we reached New York, where I was safely landed on the wharf, after travelling nearly 2400 miles : and with gratitude to the Supreme DeincI, for conducting me through fhe journey (0 much to my satifaction, I proceeded to the house of my friend, where I was farther gratified by learning that my family and friends wCTe all well. * In my' progress through this interesting state I met with " A Brief Topc^rapbical and Statistical Manual," a woak of con- (iderablc merit, from which I have extracted the following statis- tical table and remarks. 1 » ill 1 ■ M fir '. ■M 560 TKAVtLS IN H ? p* :A D"5n S "^i '■^- Countietk ^ Popu- lation. ? ^ Yards 0^ Cloth. 6 1 Ml a. a 1 3. 3 ti • F Albany 8 34661 S 11C9 232554 Bl 4 5 10 10 8 Allegnny 5 1942 1 51 14148 2 4 Uroome 6 8130 A 409 106210 6 9 1 1 Columbia 11 32300 6 1235 616780 34 8 1 8 22 23 Clint<»n 5 8002 4 218 47863 12 1 4 4 Cayuga 10 1984.^ 10 1360 340871 19 47 11 11 Corflandt 6 8868 7 400 67226 7 4 rhciiango 14 SI 704 14 890 220849 8 25 4 13 13 Chataiighque 2 2381 3 inciu. n Genesee Cntaragus 1 4.58 ib. ib. Duchem 16 51434 14 1342 358059 80 25 a 35 25 Delaware 14 20503 11 886 202096 29 U se 13 14 EsseK 11 9477 8 272 104285 7 8 6 3 6 Franklin 4 2717 3 £3 15910 2 2 Greene 7 19536 7 ^14 50357 25 4 12 11 Crenesee 10 12588 4 600 194719 24 19 I 6 7 Herkimet 10 22046 8 1600 296535 31 14 16 14 Jefferson 12 15140 12 660 160503 16 16 2 n 8 5 King's 6 8303 1 112 40465 6 2 3 Lewis 7 6433 5 306 76500 11 7 4 4 Montgomery 15 41214 11 1288 237252 45 6 20 19 Madisoa 11 25144 9 1468 350775 31 27 2 13 13 Ncw-York 1 96973 2 3 2757 9 11 15 ieal nsearch. Dr. Meusc has followed on the sjune subject. Adoptinjj; Volncy's theory ns a basis, he has avail- ed himself of additional local information, and endeavoured to correct its errors, and supply its defects. These works contuio information on this important subject well worth the attention of the stuilent in physical science. 1 shall not, however, review tlicm in detail, but briefly state u few general conclusions result- inp; from them, taken in connection with other tiicts that have come to my knowledge during a personal investigation. The clinuitc of the United States, independent of the dKTcr- onec of temperatuire imhiced by a change of latitude, seems to In ailected by five prominent circumstances: 1st. The trade winds. 2d. The gulf streanu 3d. The fogs of Ncwibundland. 4lhr The winds from the polar regions. 5th. The Allegany mountains.* 1st. The trade whids were noticed, in chap. II. as affecting the ocean. I shall now trace them in their progress over the land. By looking at a chart of the Atlantic ocean, it will be perceived that the coast of South America has a slanting di- rection from the equator to Trinidad ; and it may be noticed that this slant is prolonged to the south-east, to cape St. Roque, in south latitude 5", west longitude 36° 2G'. The course is nearly north-west, the distance above 2000 miles, and the interior of the country is composed of very high lands, rising in many places to lofly mountains. This naturally slants off the current of uii to the northward, and by contracting its bulk increases its veloci- ty ; its motion being still further accelerated by the same means in its passage through the Caribbee Islands. In its progress through the Caribbean sea it is further contracted, and gets a * Hy ihe general tenn, Allegany muuutaiiis, is meant the whole chuin of nioun- tuins cxtcndiqg irotn the Mississippi Temtuiy to the northern extremity- of the unioQ. NKW YOllK. 363 second InipulHf to tlio northward lu-twecn tho lofty island of Ja- maica and tlic Mos/|iiito short* ; and finally passes through the narrow channel between Yucatan and the island of Cuba, from whence it issues to the northward, not unlikf the wind from a pair of bellows. It then diverges, in three ;j;rand divisions, alon^ tho North American continent. One branch tulios u north-west di- rection, and, passinj^ over New Mexico, and thence l)etween the Stony mountains and the Pacific ocean, spends its force about north latitude 52°. Another branch takes a north-east dirociion, blowing -partly over the mountains, but principally between the mountains and the Atlantic, and spends its forte about the Poto- mac or Patapsco rivers. This brunch is afll-i ted jiaitly by the mountains, and partly by the trade winds to the north of the islands. It is very unsteady, -vhich circumstance sirbjects that ch's- trict of country to rapitl thau^e^. But the most important hranch to this inquiry is that which proceeds up the valley of the Mississippi, which may bo reckoned to extend fro«i tho Allefjany mountains to the chains of mountains be3'(md the Mississippi, an immense region, known by the name of the Western Country. The operation of this current was quite visible in the coui-se of my progi'ess through that country. From the time I fvisscd the Allegany mountains until I left Pittsburg, it prevailed seven day-> out of ten. In my passage down the Ohio it prevailed fifteen out of twenty-six, and five of the others were calm. From the fall.i of the Ohio to lake Erie it prevailed twenty days out of thirty -one, and two days were calm. From Cleveland, on lake Erie, to Utica, it prevailed ten days out of twenty- three. J have elsewhere remarked, that a branch of it seems occasionallv to lilow down the Mohawk river ; and its influence is often sensiblv felt at Mon- trcal, on the St. Lawrence. It is obvioits tbat thii wind must have great influence upon the climate; it tans tlie air in summer, and renders it mild and humid in winter. 2d. 'Hie gulf stream was noticed chap. IL This current be- ing warmer than the surrounding oxrean, the atmosphere above ii is proportionably aHected, and being contiguous to the American coast, the winds blowing over it, impregnated with its wannili and nioisture, will influence the climate accordingly. Tins influ- ence is particularly felt in the southern stateu, where tlie stream is from within 30 to 60 miles of the coast. Beyond Cape Hatteras it |snot so apparent, and beyond Cape Cod it is hardly known. South \' '\ m II i :^ &CI: TRAVELS IN and 80utli-<>ast windR are those subject to be influenced by it on the American couut. 3d. The fogs of Newfoundland are of great extent, and lie in a north •oubt direction from the United Statesi. North*east wind^, therefore, will in spring, suninier, and fall, be chilly and damp, in winter they will be loaded with snt)W. The part of the United States most subject to their influence arc the New England states, with jnirt of the statcj? of New Yotk, Pcnnnylvania, and New Jer- sey. 4-th. The winds from the polar regions are well known in the United States by the name of north-westers ; and it is somewhat singular that they are much more frequent to the east than to ihu wcstof the mountains; and often exhibit a very diflcrent appcnr- iince. To the east they are cold, cool, or agreeable, according to the season and situation ; and are uniforndy pure, dry, elastic, and invigorating. To the west they assume every variety, but arc often accompanied by clouds, rain, hail, and snow ; particularly in the vicinity of the great lakes. To account for these circum- stances, it is necessary to view the Allegany mountains as connect- ed with the subject; and I cannot better elucidate it than in the words of the ingenious Volncy. " The Allegany is the shore of an airy lake, whicli, below the level of the top of this bank, is at rest, unalFceted by the movements of the stratum above it. Hence the souih-wcst wind traverses the valley of the Mississippi and Ohio, Kentucky and the contiguous countries, as Jar as the valley of tlic St. Lawrence, by which it flows off, while the north-west stream glides over it diagonally, and, overtopping the highest mountains, pours down on the maritime country, where its force is augmtiited by its own specific gravity, the slope of the earth's surface, and the vacuity above the ocean in the south -cast." The niost remarkable feature in the climate east of the moun- tains is the sudden and j^rcat changes, from heat to cold and from moist to dry. These changes are most renjarkable on the sea- board. In llic interior the climate is more settled, and amongst the mountains it is colder than to the east or west of them. In the western country the climate is more settled and more mild than to the east of the mountains, but this district is subject to a "ood deal of rain in winter. .- . > ■ Voln»;y has drawn thefollowinggencral conclusions on the subject: 1st. The climate of the maritime region is colder in winter, and NIW YORK. 565 firmer in summer, than that of the countries in Europe under the same parallels. 'idly. 'J'he daily variations are more abrupt in the maritime coun- try (liAM in Kurupc. 3d. I'hr temperature of tho valleys of the Ohio and Minsissippi is warmer, in the proportion of three de<;rees of latitude, than that of the maritime districts. The two first positions arc correct, and the lust is so also as to the general effect upon vegetables and fruits ; but to convey a cor- rect idea of the matter, it should be kept in view, that while the western country is warmer upon the whole, it is cooler in the Kum- nier season than the same parallels on the other side of the moun- tains. This, however, has its limits, for it appears that to the north of 4'4''' or 45" the eastern and western country are nearly as- similated, and to the south beyond 32° the same effect takes phicc, with this exception, that the breeze to the westward is more permn* iient and steady, wliich will probably contribute, with other fa- vourable circumstances, to render New Orleans more healthy thaa Charleston and Savannoli. The climate has been divided into four sections, the cohlost, middle, hot, and temperate ; to which I shall add a fifth, the warm, and proceed to mark the different lines of distinction. 1st. To the coldest I would assign that portion lying north east of a line drawn from the east end of lake Ontario, to the east end of Long Island sound. In this region the winters commence about the first of December, and last till the end of March; and are very severe. The heat of summer commences in June, and ends in August. Both heat and cold go to great extremes ; but the coun- try is generally healthy. : ir 2d. The middle may be included between the aforesaid line and a line drawn from the east end of Lake Erie to where the moun- tains cross the New York state line — thence along the top of the Allegany ridge to the latitude of Washington — thence due east through Washington to the Atlantic. In this region the frost is less steady, though often severe ; and the rivers are frequently ob- structed by ice. Towards the south and east, the winter weather is variable, passing frequently from cold to mild, and from snow to rain. The winters commence about the middle of December, and end in February. The heat of summer commences in May, and ends in September, i ' ' ;. i • - '•-' " I mi J^. ■* I '•H m (If- d m 666 THAVELS IN Sd. The hot climate may be defined by rnnning a line nioiig tlic ridge at the head of tide waters, from Washington through Ridi- inond in Virginia, Raleigh in North Carolina, Columbia in Somh Carolina, Milledgevillcin Georgia; and extending from thence to where the 32d degree of latitude crosses the Mississippi above Natches. In tliib region, between that line and the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico, frost and bnow are but of short duration, and to the south they ai-e seldom seen. Tli? winters are very varial)li', but generally pleasant and healthy. The summers commence in April and end in November; and the heat is often very oppressive. ith. The warm region extends from tlie last mentioned line to the foot of the mountains, and winding round their southern ex treniity in Georgia, latitude St" 30', the line may thence be pro- tracted due west to the Mississippi. In this region the weather i« more settled, and though the summers have neorly the same dura- tion as in the hot region, the heat is more moderate. 5t'.i. The temperate region includes all the space beyond thesr lines as far west as the latitude of 17", and north to lat. 43° ; be- yond which my researches did not extend. The summers com- raence in April, and end in October. The winters commence in December, and end in February. The springs and falls are de- lightful, rnd both summci-s and winters are moderate. America was first discovered by Christopher Columbus, on llio 12th of October, 1492. In 1499, an officer sailed on a voyage of discovery, accompanied by Amerigo Vespucci, a Florentine, and a man of science, who, on hi« return to Europe, published the first description of the new Mr< ''Id, in consequence of which he received an honour, eminently due to Columbus, that of affixing his name to this vast continent. The settlement of tho United States took plnce as follows ; by Lord DeJavvare by the Butch 1610 Virginia 161* J ^^^ ^°^^ "} New Jersey 5623 New Hampshire 16^7 ^S^'^^'T • ? Pennsylvania 1628 Massachusetts 1633 Maryland 1635 Connecticut 1635 Rhode Island 1699 South Carolina 1728 Nortli Carolina r It- •>. by a small English colony by the Swedes & Finlanderti by Joint Endicott & Co. by Lord Baltimore fay Mr. Fenwick ^.^ by Roger Williams ,'.\- by Governor Sayie ' ' from South Carolina on llic era { m f^fj i* •'^. r'- I:-. I ■ "" Members to . Congress. Climate. Produce. tance By By ^ ■om Census Census , . ington. 1800 1810. V .* ■ - :.52 ~ 5 6 Coldest. Grain, cattle, &c. \ >81 4 6 Do. Do. do. 1 1 •81 ;()3 }" 20 Do. Do. Do. do. Mo, do. «! 39 2 2 Do. Do. do. ..V $70 7 7 Do. Do. do. too 17 27 Do. Do. do. If 176 6 6 Middle. Do. do. . '«- U2 18 23 Do. Do. do. 14L I 2 Do. Do. do. 40 9 9 Do. Do. tobacco. -^ ■:* Do. ■ 12G 22 23 Warm. Do. do. 295 12 13 Do. Do. do. cotton. JAV 8 9 Do. Cotton, rice. 702 4 6 Do. Do. do. '■. 389 1 6 Temperate. Grain, cattle, &c. . 560 6 10 Do. Do. do. 54-7 3 6 Do. Cotton, grain, &c. .4.62 1 Hottest. Do. sugar, rice. v 247 Do. Do. rice, grain. ' J 743 Temperate. Grain, cattle, &c. f 903 Do. Do. do. * .' 818 Do. Grain, cattle. - * 975 Do. Grain, cotton, rice. 142 182 1 ^ i I i . » To jace~J*age 567- 1635 1695 Ehode rsIan(P 1699 South Carolina 1728 Nortli Carolina in ' tf — — - A. ^''••T***^^^ by Roger WiJIiains by Governor Sayle trora South Carolina I-, -fil' Vii .^■^ « A''N>^ > I- ^ J, . |i*: '' < r i' « iiSi STATISTICAL TA OF THE UNITED STATI L Extent. Ar^a. ] Populatiun. u ■J) ••Z Chief Towns. STATES. c - o.t; Greatest Length. Greatest Breadth. Miles. Acres. 1790. 1800. 1810. Inhabit! squan Acres t Inhab Name. 1 Population. New Hampshire 182 92 9491 ' 60742+0 14T&85 1838.58 214460 23 2.S Portsmouth 6934 Vermont 166 93 10237 6551680 85539 154465 217895 21 30 Springfield 2757 Massachussetts 7 District of Maine J 190 100 8765 5609600 378787 422845 472040 54 12 Boston 33250 •250 192 34000 21760000 96540 151719 228705 7 95 Portland 7169 Rhode Island 45 43 1.548 990720 6S825 69122 76931 i^n 13 Providence 10071 Connecticut 83 72 4400 2816000 237946 251002 261942 60 10 Newhaven 5772 New York 34.0 317 52125 33360000 340120 586203 959049 18 34 New York 96373 New Jersey 14.5 60 7920 5068800 184139 211149 245562 31 21 Trenton ^ 3002 ' Pennsylvania 320 162 49390 31609600 434373 602365 810091 16 39 Philadelplila 111210 Delaware 100 37 2200 1408000 59094 64273 72674 33 19 Wihningtoo 4416 Maryland 212 123 14000 8y<.'0000 319728 349692 380546 27 21 Baltimore 35583 District of Columbia 10 10 100 64000 24023 24€- Washington 8208 Virginia 442 235 70500 45120000 747610 886149 974622 14 46 C7 Richmond 9735 North Carolina 472 188 50500 32320000 393751 478103 555500 11 58|Newbern 2500 South Carolina 236 210 33880 21683200 249073 345591 415115 12 52 Charleston 24711 Georgia 30.5 259 60000 3S400000 82548 162684 252433 4 l52|Savannah .5215 Ohio 228 227 43860 28070400 ^5365 230760 5 121 Cincinnati 2540 Kentucky 328 183 40110 25670400 73677 220960 406511 10 68Lexington ^ • 1 4326 I'ennessee 420 104 43200 27648000 35691 105602 261727 6 106Knoxville 1000 |Louisiana Mississippi Territory 300 241 41000 26240000 76556 2 356 New Orleans 17242 390 278 88680 56755200 «850 40352 1406Natches 1511 'Indiana Territory 284 155 39C00 24960000 5641 24520 1019 Vincennes 670 Illinois Territory 347 206 52000 33280000 12282 2718Ka8kaskia 622 Michigan Territory 256 154 34820 22284800 3206 4762 4680 Detroit 1650 Louisiana Territory 1494 886 985250 630560000 20845 30250 St. Louis 1500 North- West Territory 486 417 1068S0 68371200 3" ' A t/\/V/ 1883806 1205635840 3929326 5308844! 7239903 ]l'J^- .«. J—- ■•.•■ ICAL TABLE / " )F THE D STATES. Chief Towns. Seats of Government. Members to Congress. Climate?. Prntliipp ! Distance By By ^./ AAlAIClvW* JL A V/IAUWV. Name. Population. Name. Latitude. Longitude. 5°21'E from Washington. Census Census 1800 1810. . • rtsmouth 6934 Concord 4S°14'N 552 5 6 Coldest. Grain, cattle, &c. ringfield 2757 MontpeJier 44 14 4 24 581 4 6 Do. Do. do. ston 33250 Boston 42 23 5 56 481 }" 20 Do. Do. do. irthind 7169 Portland 43 36 6 42 603 Do. Do. do. evidence 10071 Providence 41 52 5 27 439 2 2 Do. Do. do. ewhaven 5772 Hartford 41 45 4 11 370 7 7 Do. Do. do. Bw York 96373 Albany 42 38 3 12 400 17 ■27 Do. Do. do. •enton ' 3002 Trenton 40 14 2 17 176 6 6 Middle. Do. do. liladelplila 111210 Harrisburg 40 16 15 142 18 23 Do. Do. do. 'ihnington U16 Dover 39 8 1 33 141 1 2 Do. Do. do. jlliraore 35583 Annapolis 38 58 ti5 40 9 9 Do. Do. tobacco. ^ashingtoJl 8208 Washington 38 53 Do. ichmond 9735 Richmond 37 31 33 W 126 22 23 Warm. Do. do. ewbern 2500 Raleigh 35 52 1 39 295 12 13 Do. Do. do. cotton. harleston 24.711 Columbia 33 58 3 45 511 8 9 Do. Cotton, rice. ivannah 52\5 Milledgeville 32 58 6 13 702 4 6 Do. Do. do. incinnati 2540. Zanesville 39 57 4 49 389 1 6 Temperate Grain, cattle, &c. exingtoii 4326 Frankfort 38 13 7 38 5LiO 6 10 Do. Do. do. noxville 1000 Knoxville 35 53 6 5S 547 3 6 Do. Cotton, grain, &c. ew Orleans 17242 New Orleans 29 57 12 53 1462 1 Hottest. Do. sugar, rice. Do. rice, grain. atches 1511 Natch es 31 35 It 25 1247 ! Do. incennes 670 Vincenncs 38 51 10 18 743 Temperate. Grain, cattle, &c. askaskia 622 Kaskaskia 37 59 12 29 903 Do. ' f Do. do. etroit 1650 Detroit 42 2t 5 53 818 Do. Grain, cattle. t. Louig r ■1 ' 1500 St. Louis 38 38 12 53 975 Do. Grain, cotton, rice. 1 > ^" .„ 142 1 182 To fact Page 567- 1728 Nortii Carol una h Roger WiJIiams Jy Governor Sayle trora South Carolina r. CI ^ ■ 1732 Geo I 1764 Veri 1 1773 Ken 1 1774 Ten 1 1787 Ohi( J 1803 Loui The follow fl TREE VVII ami since the 1765 The 1773 The NAMES • CO cc 1771 The of the 177.') Batt DISTRICTS o c 1776 Decl and 0) s 1778 Arti( TERRITORIES. >> o "3 c a 1780 Surr O ' 1782 Trea B o t 1787 The D 1789 Gcoj 1797 John District of Maine 41273 18463 * Massachussetts 68930 34964 i J 801 Thoi New Hampshire 34284 17840 1809 Juni< Vermont 38082 18340 1812 Wai Rhode Island 10735 555i TTM Connecticut 37812 20498 t Lue annex New York 165033 73702 1 extent of the < New Jersey 37814 18911 The agricu lories have b< Pennsylvania Delaware 138464 0632 62606 4480 f Maryland 38613 18489 ; The progr« Virginia 97777 42919 . cularly in a r 274 ; I may 1 Ohio 46623 18119 ; Kentucky 65134 26804 1 North Carolina C8036 30321 Mitchell, of] East Tennessee 18392 7618 West Tennessee 26102 9552 Vprmnnt' South Carolina 30669 17193 the Massachu Georgia 28002 11951 ales, Connccti« Territcy of Orleans 5848 2491 3 Pennsylv Mississippi 42r 1637 Louisiana 3438 1345 Indiana 4923 1922 There appe from the sheep ar Illinois 2266 945 Michigan 80C 351 the (inc. District of Columbia 2479 1158 ies, Toe ^0 5 nm litem. I03527S 468183 ceJ' uiic i>jl VNITIO STATRS 567 1732 Georgia 1764 Vermont 1773 Kentucky 1774 Tennessee 1787 Ohio 18)3 Louisiana bv Oenera) Oglethor})e. frohi "^pw England by Dili!!**! l)Oonc Iron. Nf (ih Carolina, &e. by the V '}•' land other conipanies ceckul b) : 'ance. 1 .ales, 3 the (';r.ii ies, Tor nyj Tiie following arc some of the most remarkable events before anil since the revolution. 1 765 The stamp act passed ] 773 The tea destroyed at Boston 1774 The first congress held 177.5 Battles of Lexington and Bunker's-hill 1776 Declaration of Lidependence, July 4th 1778 Articles of confederation agreed on 1780 Surrender of Lord Comwallis, October 1 9{2i 1782 'I'reaty of peace, November 30tU 1 787 The federal constitution adopted 1789 George Washington elected presidciU 1797 John Adams elected president 1801 Thomas Jefferson elected president 1809 James Madison elected president 1812 War declared against Britain, June 18th. The annexed statistical table presents a summary view of the extent ot the country, population, chief towns, climate, produce, &c. The agriculture and produce of the several states and terri- tories have been noticed. The progress of manufactures has also been attended to, parti- cularly in a review of the secretary of the treasury's report, page '274 ; 1 may here add a brief abstract of a late compilation by Di-. Mitchell, of New York, from documents in.the treasury department. SHEEP. Vermont Massachusetts Connecticut Pennsylvania 450000 299182 400000 14CU9I3 ^ 2719100 jere appears to be no return from the other states; but sheep arc abundant m all of them. SALTPETRE. lb?. Virginia 4S175 Kentucky 303137 Massachusetts 2560O 375(512. &UGAR. lbs. Ohio 3033806 Kentucky 2471647 E. Tennessee 162240 Vermont. 1200000 686769a ■ m m ifj i' , *;* W' ce i'tiii<: 5*'7l u CENSUS OF THE FOR FREE WHITE MALES, ™1 NAMTS of the • CO « tc U «5 1- to C3 • to DISTRICTS o 0* 0) 2 0) "2 o cc and TERIUTORIES. >> O c o s -c ci 3 3 -a c n w >» O • V -a c O o O "2 t3 C District of Maine 41273 18463 20403 22079 13291 39131 1 Massachussetts 680.^0 34964 45018 45854 34976 66881 Q New Hampshire 34284 17840 18865 20551 1 4462 32313 1 Vermont 38082 18340 19678 20781 13053 36621 1 Rhode Island 10735 5554 7250 6765 5439 10555 Connecticut 37812 20498 23880 23699 2048 1 35913 1 New York 165033 73702 85779 94882 53985 ■ 157915 6 New Jersey 37814 18914 21231 21394 16004 36062 1 Pennsjplvama 138464 62606 74203 74193 52100 131769 6 Delaware 0632 4480 5150 5866 2878 9041 Maryland 38613 18439 22688 25255 15165 36137 1 Virginia 97777 42919 51473 52567 35302 90715 4 Ohio 46623 18119 20189 22761 1U65 44192 1 Kentucky 65134 26804 29772 2955S 17542 60776 1 North Carolina 68036 30321 34630 34450 21189 65421 3 East Tennessee 18392 7618 8266 7539 4998 17416 West Tennessee 26102 9552 11220 12418 5658 24394 South Carolina 3!) 609 17193 20933 20188 1 1 304 37497 1 Georgia 28002 11951 14085 14372 7433 26283 1 Territory of Orleans 5848 2491 2963 5130 2508 5384 Mississippi 4217 1637 2962 316C 1144 4015 Louisiana 3438 1343 1568 2069 967 3213 Indiana 4923 1922 '2284 •2316 1125 4555 Illinois 226t 945 1274 1339 55D 2019 Michigan District of Columbia 80C 247r 351 1158 583 1520 763 2107 340 866 640 2538 103527S 468183 547597 572347 364736 OS 1426 4^ S OF THE UNITED STATES, FOR 1810. -s, FREE WHITE FEMALES c * . § 2 1.1 • > • o ♦-» u (S V c • cn ■s (8 is s • to o e a • e a C JJ S a c m is c 3 e >* O c "3 C rs c K "2 "3 4/ O «£ CO C4 c H o S t3 O o o o < )79 13291 39131 17827 21290 21464 12515 969 22S705 ■ 700743 i54 3+976 6688 1 33191 46366 49229 39894 6737 472040 )51 1 4462 32313 17259 20792 21940 15204 970 214460 81 13053 36621 17341 20983 20792 1 1 457 750 217895 Q5 5439 10555 5389 7520 7635 6372 3609 108 76931 m 2048-1 35913 18931 24973 26293 22696 6453 310 261942 82 53985 ■ 157915 68811 85139 85805 46718 25333 15017 959049 94 10004 36062 17787 21194 21359 15109 7843 10851 245562 03 52100 131769 60943 75960 70820 45740 22492 795 810091 66 2878 9041 4370 5541 5527 2876 13136 4177 72674 55 15165 36137 17833 23875 22908 141S4 33927 11150? 380546 67 35302 90715 42207 54899 51163 32512 30570 392518 974622 61 1U65 44192 16809 19990 19436 ! 8717 1899 230760 5S 17542 60776 25743 29511 25920 13482 1713 80561 40;i51l 50 21189 65421 30053 37933 33944 ' 20427 10266 163824 555500 39 4998 17416 7216 8559 7318 ' 4129 510 9376 101307 L nfi iiot 18 5658 24394 9113 11305 10276 ' 4356 807 35159 l6Oi60'i""""' 18 1 1 304 37497 16629 20583 18974 ' 10926 4554 196365 41 ■)115| Total in liie 7'^ 7435 26283 1 1 237 13461 12350 6238 1801 105218 252433,United Stale?, 7036563 10 ^tOS 5384 4015 2558 154. J 2874 2187 3026 1753 1499 675 7585 240 •^tfifif 76556 40352 f \ t ^ \i *^ \^\^ K 1144 17088 )9 967 3213 1265 1431 1309 ' 562 G07 3011 20845 6 1125 4555 1863 2228 1880 794 393 237 2452( 59 55t^ 2019 791 1053 894 364 013 168 122a 2 (3 340 640 332 368 311 130 I2r 24 476'. ' Total in ibe •. >7 866 2538 1192 16.? 3 1734 832 1 254'J 5,-395 24023 { Ttiriloi-ies, T 203140 72 7 364736 981426 448324 56 166S 541.156 338376 1S644C i| 1191364 7230903 ' - 7'vjace yVi'c 56S UNITED STATES. COMBS. value Connecticut dol. 70000 Gun-powder mills, 207 — lb». 1450000 Furnaces, forges, &. 530 Paper-mills, 190 Cotton niilU, 1st August, 1810, 330— spindles, 100000 Cotton yarn, 500000 lbs. Looms, 330(X)0 Yards of cloth, 7500000 Fulling mills, 1630 Carding machines, 1825* 587018 The foreign commerce of the United States has suffered severe- \y by the restrictions of foreign pov/ers, and it will now be materi- ally affected, no doubt, by the present war; but such is the profu- sion of provisions and raw materials in the United States, which some of the belligerent powers cnvmot do very well without, that there must be a considerable export trade under any circumstances. In 1800 the exports amounted to dol. 70971780 In 1805 do. domestic produce 42387002 Foreign do. 53179019 Massachusetts Pennsylvania 8062 1 6310 156964 COPPERAS. West Tennessee Vermont lbs. 56000 8000 64000 STRAW BONNETS. Massachusetts 559918 - Connecticut 27100 In 1810 domestic do. 42S66675 Foreign do. 24391295 95566021 6d757970 And the following ta'i' 2 exhibits the last return at the treasury-office. UNITED STATES EXPORTS. A summary of the value of exports from each state. N. Hampshire DOMESTIC 315054 FOREIOK 53809 TOTAL 368863 Vermont 538306 32798 571104 Massachusetts 60426^5 5192820 11235465 Rhode Island 944868 626556 1571424 Connecticut 994216 38138 1032354 New York 8747700 3518515 12266215 'f^rr^ Carried over 17582789 9462636 27045425 * It will be readily perceived that this is only a partial account. It is to be regretted that a more general return is not made when the census is taken. Materials for a very valuable set of statistical tables might be collected every 10 years, along with the names of the inhabitants. Indeed it would he an easy matter to procure materials for a na- tional geography, which might be published every 10 years, under the auspices of the United States. The profits on the sale of such a work would do much more than de- fray the expense of a national geographical establishment It is also to be regretted, I think, that the returns from a number of the districts arc defective, in so far as they da not state the population in towns and cities. The inhabitants are included in the gene- ral return for the respective counties ; but were the particular enumeration in each tour. and city kept separate, it would be more satisfactory. Treasury D UNITED »T.»TFJ8. b69 Brought forward 17582789 9462636 270+ .., Now Jersey lb71 -71 Pennsylvania 5G944.47 3865670 95«> 117 Delaware 7(iM5 1I6S7 H>yj.'J2 Maryland 455:ir>82 2280405 6833987 ♦I) Columbia 20fJOJ3l 2920 20()32«I Virginia 4798612 2:^695 4822307 N. Carolina 79:'>97.> 4001 79797f> S- Carolina 4G5098t 210295 4861279 Georgia 25^722.5 1 1641 2568866 fXcr. U. S, 2323282 1 19840 2673122 Total dol. 4 j29'1.04fi 16022790 61316S33 *Genrgctov.'n 61966 1810 63776 Alexandria 1998^64 , 1110 1 99947 i Total dol . 2060530 2920 1632 20632J0 f Michigan Ter. 19997 . 21629 Mississippi do. 1441 1441 New Orleans 2501842 148208 2650050 Total dol. 2523280 149840 2673120 Tkeasury Departmeni'. Registek's OpFieE, Jan. 20, 1812. JOSEPH NOURSE, Register. By an average of 1802, 3, and 4, the imports were: from Britain and colonies dol. 35968890 Holland, France, Spain, Italy, &c, ^547 U 10 Northern powers, Prussia, Germany, &c. 7< '93330 Portugal, &c. 1106670 China, and other native powers in Asia, 486S890 All other countries^ Of these were re-exported, INIanufactured goods, ,. Coffee, Sugar. ..'•.- Other articles, i> - J .*« 835560 dol. 75334450 9778000 7533000 5777000 5355000 28444300 Leaving for the United States, dol. 46890150 Of which about 30000000 dollars may be reckoned for clothing. The imports from Britain were as above The exports to Britain were Balance in favour of Britain, The exports to other European powers were The imports from these powers were Balance against these powers, ' 25968890 23100000 dol. 12868890 45333340 33662230 dol. 11671110 ■^ ; i '. 1:1 i;' 570 UNITED ITATIii. In 180), 3 iC.4076803 18()6 I '2865/551 43607M • 1807 12097912 6531410 36409.5 86 l+SJfiSgriG Balance In favour of Britain in these three years, iff.21i40G3o. In icileral cuncncy, 952(i68()0 dollars. The follpwing extract from IJloJgct's slatisticnl table* of 1809^ shows the progress of society, and national wealth. UnitcdStates' territory 1280000000 Roadiandcanals.valuedol.l 1500000 luiprovt'd lands Dwelling houses Colleges Academics Horses Cattle 4()9.'>(XKK) Hridges do. 5000000 1375000 Shipjiing tons 1250000 25 Metallic medium dol. 20500000 74 Hanks, 92 ca{>it«l 51500000 1400000 Bunk-notes in circulation 185000(K) 3660000 Insuranco companies' capital 18600000 NATIONAL VUNDS. Lots in Washington dol. 1500000 Western public lands 250000000 Lousiana lands 400000000 National debt Sinking fund dol. 651500000 03119694 27597968 65521726 --_ doL 585978274 The land in this statement is valued ^t 1 dollar per acre. The total value of the United States Is estimated at 2510,000,000 dollars. The federal government have attended to objects of national im- provement with laudable ct^re ; numerous public works have been promoted within these lost 10 years: the arrangements made in the state of Ohio to promote education are a proof of their attention to that subject. They are precluded by the constitution from running lines of roads or canals through the union) without consent of the individual states ; but tliis important subject Uas met with due atten- tion, and an elegant plan was devised for improving the country by these means, which, but for the subsequent difficulties in the foreign relations, would probably have been by this time in practical ope- ration. As it is probable that this important subject will be resum- ed at a future ^ncriodi I shall here give an outline of the various -workscontemplated in the secretary of the treasury's luminous reporti UNITED STATES. 571 I limy first notice that the United States have already, with the absent of the statck, agreed to mnko, nt their M>ic cxpenitc, u rond from Cumberland, on the Potomac, to Brownsville, on the Moiiou- gahcia, which is the only work of the kind they huvu luidertnken. The ftfllowini^ tables will exhibit a view of the diirervnt cutuili and roads contemplated in the re|)ort. I. Line OF canals alonu the Atlantic coast. Canali. Direction. II '2(i '2S 2'2 '2'2 US Lx pence Doll>ir«. Maiaachuiieiia New Jersey Delaware and Chesapeak Chesapeak ami Albemarle WcyniuuUi to Tauniun Brunswick to Tie nioii Chriaiiana to £ik Elizabeth river to Patqaotaitk 2(i() 100 40 5VS I'2.)Oo«}() 8U0()i)0 75'K)(K) 25000(' :i050ooc) These canals are calculated for sea vessels, and, should they be completed, will perfect an internal navigation from Boston to St. Mary's, in Georgia, a distance, in a direct line, of more tliaii 1000 miles. II. iMPROVEMtlft OP INLAWD NAVIGATION. Improvement of the navigation of the Susquehannah, Potomac, James, and Santee rivers, from the tide-wa- ters to the highest practical point, to be effected princi- pally by canals round the falls, where practicable, and by locks when necessary 1,500,000 Canal at the falls of Ohio, two miles long, and from I'j to 27 feet deep, 20 feet wide in bottom, and 68 at top, and having three locks 300,000 Improvement of the navigation of the North river, and a canal from thence to lake Champlain^ the dis- tance from Waterford to Skeensborough being 50 miles 800,000 Improvement of the navigation from Albany, through the Mohawk and Oswego rivers, to lake Ontario 2,200,000 Canal for sloop navigation round the falls of Niagara 1,000,000 dot. 5,800,000 I' f 1 » ' ' 572 UNITED STATES. III. Turnpike iioads. A great road cxtcmling from Maine to Georgia, in tlie general dircctiou oi' the sea-coast and main post- load, and passing though all the principal sea-ports, in length KJOO miles, estimated at 3000 dollars per mile ijSOOjOOO Four great artificial roads from the four great western rivers, the Allegany, Monongahela, Kanhaway, anil 'lenncssce, to the nearest corresponding Atlantic ri- vers, the Susquchaimah or Juniata, the Potomac, James river, and either the Sanlee or Savannah ; to miite on each river points from which there is a navigation downward, estimated at 100 miles each, being 100 miles, at 7000 dollars per mile 2,800,000 A post-road from the Tuscarawa branch of the Mus- kingum to Detroit, distance about 200 miles; ' Another from Cincinnatti to St. Louis, by Vinccn- nes, distance SOO miles; And another from Nashville, in Tennessee, at Athens, in Georgia, to Natche.-;, distance 500 miles ; ; In all 1000 miles, at 200 dollCTs per mile 200,000 dol. 7,800,000 Jn pointing out tliese lines of. communication, the great geographical features of the country were solely altendetl to ; and, to equalize the advantages to all the states, a fund was contemplated for local improvements, amounting to 3,400,000 Which, added to the sum esthnated for general iinprovemcnls, would make an na-vrcgate o( i-)tt' 16,600,000 dol. 20,000,000 It was suggested that an annual appropriation of two millions of doUura, would accomplish all these great objects in 10 years. In estimating the resources of the nation, with a view to this appropriation, it was stated, that by the estimate of a peace ci- If Ui' ■ I ' UNITED STATES. 573 tablislimcnt, computed for the years 1809-1815, the annual reve- nue would be (hi. 14,000,000 And the expcnditnro as follows : Annual fund for the discharge of the national debt 4,600,000 Expences of government 3,500,000 Contingencies 400,000 8,500,000 '■m Leaving a surplus of dol. Sj.'JOOjOOO It was calculated that three millions applied annually, during 10 years, would arm every man in the United States; fill the pub- lic arsenals and magazines ; erect every battery atul fortification which could be manned ; and even, if thought eligible, build a navy ; leaving a surplus of 2,.';00,00() dollars per nnnunn Amongst the resources of the nation, exclusively of the land^ in Louisiana, the general government possesses 1(;0 millions of acres of land, north-west of the Ohio, and near 50 millions south of the state of Tennessee; and it was believed that it would an- swer a good p!'rpose, to apply the proceeds exclusively to promote the improvement of the country; the more, because the contem- plated two millions could only be appropriated in time of peace, whereas this could be applied permanently, until the most im- portant impi'ovemcnts were effected. It was added, " the fund creaied by these improvements would afterward become a per- petual fund for still further improvements." The report remarks, that "the general utility of artificial roads nnd canals, is at this time so universally admitted, as hardly to require any additional proofs. It is sufficiently evident, that, when- ever the annual expence of transportation on a certain route, in its natural state, exceeds the interest on the capital cmployetl in improving the communication, and the annual expence of trans- portation by the improved route, the difference is an adtlitional income to the nation. Nor does, in that case, the general result vary, although the tolls may not have been fixed at a rate suf- ficient to pay the undertakers the niterest of the capital laid out. They, indeed, when that happens, lose; but the community is benefitted by the undertaking." // JblloxvSy that all public v-vrkSf ixihich are deemed essential, and iickich yet do not hold out a jn-os^ pect of remuneration to individuals, should be executed exclusively Ini the })ublic, and for jmhlic account. ! ' fit -» .- i'.' \ ! i: ■ -il- : 1 574 UNlTttD STATES. The report states, << that the price of labour is not considered fiK a formidable obstacle, because, whatever it may be, it equally alTccts the expcncc of transportation, which is saved by the im- provement." The importance of this remark is self-evident, and it may be strengthened by the application of the national force, to promote national objects, by the employment of the army in time of peace. Every nation must have a hired army, to a cer- tain extent, and, by a judicious application of their labour, a great many national objects might be promoted ; the condition of the men might be improved by an allowance of additional pay for their labour, while the employment itself is favourable to virtu- ous habits, and is perhaps the best means of uniting the duties of the citizen with the soldier. -The federal revenue consists mostly of a tax on imports and tonnage, with the produce of the sale of the new lands. It has been already stated, that the revenue for a peace establishment, from 1809 to 1815, was calculated at dol, 14,000,000 While the expences of government, includ- ing contingencies, amounted only to 3,900,000 And the annual fund for paying off the national debt 4,600,000 8,500,000 Leaving a surplus for national improvements, of doL 5,500,000 But, in consequence of the interruption of the foreign com- merce of the United States by the belligerent powers of Europe, the revenue has been materially affected ; while preparations for u state of hostility have increased the expenditure, and exhausted the treasury ; so that all the contemplated improvements have, for the present, been laid aside ; and ho&tilies having actually taken place between the United States and Great Britain, the war will, in all probability, be productive of events that will call for an entirely new system of policy, as to the national reve- nue. In the mean time, a temporary expedient has been resorted to by raising a new loan of 1 1,000,000 dollars; and 100 per cent, has been added to the duties on tonnage and imports.*' * It Las always appeared to me, that « very simple eipedient might be resatud ib, wliich would mtet any deficiency in the aational revenue, and supersede the ne- cessity of loans and exrhe, while it would render the country^ so far as the fiaances are concerned, completely independent of foreign trade. iiiii UNITED STATFS. 675 Tlie federal currency is very simple. The dollar is established as the money unit, proceeding downwards, by the decimal ratio pf tens. First The duties on tonnage and imports should be oonlinucd ; and to give facility to the progress of the rising manufacture^ they should be lowered or raised, according to existing circumstances. I doubt the policy, however, wf ntaking them, in any case, exceed 20 per cent., as that holds out too great temptation to smugglers. These duties even in time of war, including that on salt, I would estimate at 4,000.000 dollars. Second. A national bank might be instituted oh the following principles : Isl: The capital stock of tlie bank may be fixed at 30,0(X),000 dutiars, of which thf United Sutes migat furnish 20,000,000 dollars, the basis being land, and tlie individual states the other 10,000,000 dollars. ad. The bank to be established at Washington, and the lUrcctorj and other office- bearers to be i^>p(rfnted by congress. 3d. A branch to be established in every state, with consent of the rcipcctive state le- gislatures, who may appoint one-half of the office-bearers, and the quota of the stock, for that state, to be applied exclusively to the branch estabtislied in it. 4th. To preserve a uniformity of circulating medium, the wkolts of the notes to be issued at the seat of government, and to be exchanged at all the brunches. 5th. The bank and its branches to be so . gamzcd as to facilitate a general cxchanbook of 3oO pages crown octavo, bound in vellum, and is attended by this very singular circumstance, that on the left hand page throughout the book the word Psalm is spellad it it should be ; at the head of every right hand page it is spelled " PMlme." I was shown also the first newspaper printed in America. It is entitled " The Boa- tun Newsletter, from Monday, April 17th, to Monday, April 24th, 1704, published by authority." On looking into it, the first article I snw had reference to the land of my nativity, and I made the following extract from it in " my pocket-book." " From the London Flying Post, from December 2d to 4th, 1705. " Letters from Scotland bring us tlic copy of a sheet latoly printed there, intitled, a Se#son«ble Alarm for Scotland, in a letter from a clergyman in the city to his friend in the country, concerning the present danger of the kingdom, and oF the protestant religion." The letter takes notice that papists swarm in the nation, that they traffic more avowedly than formerly, and that of late many scores of priests and Jesuits had come tliither from France, and had gone to the hif;blands, and other places in the country ; and the ministers of the north had given long lists of them to the cornmittee of the general assembly, to be laid before the privy council, &c. The state of literature in a country may be partly inferred from the quantity of pa- per manufactured. Mr. Thomas says, " from the information I have collected, it ap- pears that the mills for manufacturing paper are as follows :— New Hampshire 7 Virginia 4 Massachusetts 38 South Carolina 1 Rhode Ishmd 4 Kentucky « Connecticut 17 Tennessee 4 Vermont 9 Pennsylvania about 60 New York 12 In all the otiier stetes and Delaware 4 territories 16 Maryland 9 _- mmm. Total 185 From Dr. Mitchell's report, the numbers appeared to be 190. The paper manufactured annually at these mills is esdoated as follows: tons. For newspapers 500 For books C30 For writing 650 For wrapping 800 2580 reams. valuer 50,000 dot. 150,000 70,000 245,000 111,000 333,000 100,000 83.000 331,000 dJ. 811,000 *ni'' ' ( I! m 580 UNITED STATES. July, 1778, when " Articles of Confederation and Perpetual Union" were agreed upon by New Flampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Is- liiiul, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, Morth Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia. On the Ifit March 1781, Maryland acceded by her representatives in con- gress ; and the articles were finally ratified. These articles conti- nued t© regulate the proceedings of the general government until the year 1787, when a new constitution was adopted, of which the fol- lowing are the outlines. 1st. The legislative power is vested in a congress of the United States, consisting of a senate and house of representatives. The raemhci's of the house of representatives are chosen every second year by the people of the several states; and the electors in each state must have the qualifications requisite for the electors of the most numerous branch of the state legislature. A representa- tive must be 25 years of age, and have been 7 years a citizen of the United States ; and be an inhabitant of that state for which he shall be chosen. The representatives will hereafter be chosen in the se- veral states in the proportion of one for every 35,000, in which e- iiumevation the Indians and two-fifths of the people of colour are not included. The senate is composed of two members from each state, chosen for six years by the respective state legislatures ; and the seats of onc-tliird arc vacated every two years, A senator must be 30 years of age, and have been 9 years a citizen of the United States, and at the time of his election an inhabitant of the state for which he is ehosen. The vice-president of the United States is president of the senate ; but has no vote unless they are equally divided. Congress must assemble at least once every year. Their meet- ings shall be on the first Monday in December, unless they shall by law appoint a different day. No law can be passed without the concurrence of both houses. When that is obtained, it is presented to the president, who, if he approves, signs it ; if not, he returns it with his objections, for the re-con!jideriitioH of congress, and it cannot in that case become a law without the concurrence of two-thirds of the members. The prcoident "'lUst r iurnit within 10 days, otherwise it becomes a law without his appi ubaiion. . . 1 !io coogrct^s have power — T. To lay and collect taxes, duties, imposts, and excises, to pay UNITED STATRS. 581 the debts, and provide for the common defence and general welfare of the United States ; but all duties, imposts and excises, shall be uniform throughout the United States. II. To borrow money on the credit of the United States. ^ III. To regulate commerce with foreign nations, and among the several states, and with the Indian tribes. IV. To establish an uniform rule of naturalization, and uniform laws on the subject of bankruptcies, throughout the United States. V^. To coin money ; to regulate the value thereof, and of foreign coin ; and fix the standard of weights and measures. VI. To provide for the punishment of counterfeiting the se- curities and current coin of the United States. VII. To establish post-offices and post*roads. VIII. To promote the progress of science and useful arts, by securing for limited times, to authors and inventors, the exclu- sive right to their respective writings and discoveries, . " - IX. To constitute tribunals inferior to the supreme court. X. To define and punish piracies and felonies committed on the high seas, and offences against the law of nations. XI. To declare war ; grant letters of marque and reprisal ; and make rules concerning captures on land and water. XII. To raise and support armies. But no appropriation of money for that use shall be for a longer term than two years. XIII. To provide and maintain a navy. ■■'■'■ t.^-- i j? -^^ • ; .' XIV. To make rules for the government and regulation of the land and naval forces. ■. *-.■.. i XV. To provide for calling forth the militia to execute the laws of the union, suppress insurrections, and repel invasions. XVI. To provide for organizing, arming, and disciplining the militia, and for governing such part of them as may be employed in the service of the United States; reserving to the states re- spectively the appointment of the officers, and the authority of training the militia according to the discipline prescribed by con- (^res5. •'^'.j r\': - - ' ■ • * XVII. To exercise exclusive legislation, in all coses whatso- ever, over such district (not exceeding ten milei square) as may, by cession of particular states, and the acceptance of congress, become the seat of government of the United States ; and to ex- ercise like authority over all places purchased by the consent of the legislature of the state in which the same shall be, for the 582 UNITED STATU. erection of forts, mftgazines, arsenals, dock-yanit, ahdothernfed- ful buildings ; and XVII I. To make all laws which shall be necessary and proper for carrying into execution the foregoing powers, and all otlicr powers vested by this constitution in the government of the United •States, or any department or officer thereof. The migration or importation of such persons, as any of the states now existing shall think proper to admit, shall not be pro> hibitcd by the congress, prior to the year one thousand eight hundred and eight ; but a tax may be imposed on such imports' tion, not exceeding ten dollars for each person. Tiie privilege of the writ of habeas corpus shall not be suspend, ed unless when, iu cases of rebellion or invasion, the public safety may require it. No bill of attainder or ex post fiicto law shall be passed. No capitation or other direct tax shall be laid, unless in propor- tion to the census or enumeration herein before directed to be taken. No tax or duty sliall be laid on articles exported from any state. No preference shall lie given, by any regulation cf commerce or revenue, to the ports of one state, over those of another; nor shall vessels bound to or from one state, bo oUiged to enter, clear, or pay duties in another. No money shall be drawn from the treasury, but in consequence of appropriations made by law ; and a regular statement and ac- count of the receipts and expenditures of all public money shall be published from time to time. No title of nobility shall be granted by the United States : and no person, holding any office of profit or trust under them, shall, without the consent of congress, accept of any present, emolu- ments, office, or title, of any kind whatever, firom any king, prince^ w fiH^ign state. No stttte ^a}l enter into any treaty, alliance, or confederation ; grant letters of marque and reprisal; coin money; emit bills of credit ; make any thing but gold and silver coin a tender in pay- BMntefdebt; joiass any bill of attainder, ex post facto law, or law Impiuringthe e4>ligation of contracts, or grant any title of nobility. No state shall, without the consent of congress, lay any im* posts or duties on imports or exports, except what may be abso' lut^y necessary for executing its inspection laws ; and the net pvodttce of all duties and imposts laid by any state on imports or ck«r, UNITED STATES. 5^5 «xport§» fthall be for the use of the treasury of the United States; and all such laws shall be subject to the revision and control of congress. No state shall, without the consent of congress, lay soy d«ty on tonnage, keep troops, or ships of yrar, in time of peace, enter into any agreement or comi)act with another stat^ or with a foreign power, or engage in war, unless actually invad* ed, or in such inuniiient danger as will not admit of delay. The executive power is vested in a president, who is elected for four years, as follows : Each state appoints, in such a manner OS tile legislature may direct, a number of electors e(|ual to the whole number of senators and representatives, which that state tends to congress. But no senator or representative, or person liolding any office of trust or profit under the United States, can be an elector. The electors meet in their retpective states, and vote by ballot for president and vice president, one of whom, at least, shall not be an inhabitant of the same state with themselves. The list of the votes are sent to the seat of government, directed to the president of the senate; who, in presence of the senate and house of representatives, opens the certificates, and the votes are counted. The person having the greatest number of votes for president is declared to be elected to that ofRce, provided he have the votes of a majority of all the electors appointed. If not, then from the persons having the greatest number of votes not exceed- ing three) the house of representatives choose the president by ballot. No person except a natural-born citizen, or a citizen of the United States at the time of the adoption of this constitution, shall be eligible to the office of president ; and he must be S5 years of age, and have resided 14 years within the United Statet-. The president shall be commander in chief of the army and navy of the United States, and of the militia of the several states, when called into the actual service of the United States. He may re- quire the opinion, in writing, of the principal officers in each of tlie executive departments, upon any subject relating to the duties of their respective offices : and he shall have power to grant re- prieves and pardons, for oiFencos against the United States, ex- cept in cases of impeachment. He shall have power, by and with the advice and consent of the senate, to make treaties provided two^thirds of the senators present concur : and he sliall nominate, and, by and with the ad- vice «nd consent of the senate, shall appoint atnbaesadors, other 584 UMITBD STATES. public ministers, and consuln, judges of the supreme court, and uli other oilicers of the United States, whose appointments are not otherwise provided for, and which shall be established by law. But the congress may, by law, vest the appointment of such inferior officers as they think proper, in the president alone, in the courts of law, or in the heads of departments. ■ ''■ The president shall have power to fill up all vacancies that may Imppen during the recess of the senate, by granting commission!*, which shall expire at the end of their next session. lie shall, from time to time, give to the congress information of the i^tate of the union ; and recommend to their consideration such measures ns he shall judge necessary^ and expedient. He may, on extraordinary occai>ions, convene both houses or either of them; and, in case of disagreement between them, with respect to the time of adjournment, he may adjourn them to such time as he shall think proper. He shall receive ambassadors and other pub- lic ministers. He shtU take care that the laws be faithfully ex- ecuted ; and shall com iuision all the officers of the United States. The judicial power of the United States shall be vested in one supreme court, and in such inferior courts as the congress may from time to time ordain and establish. The judges, both of the supreme and inferior courts, shall hola their offices during good behaviour ; and shall, at stated times, receive for their ser- vices a compensation, which shall not be diminished during their continuance in office. The judicial power shall extend to all cases, in law and equity, arising under this constitution, the laws of the United States, aud treaties made, or which shall be made under their authority ; to all cases affi^cting ambassadors, other public ministers, and con- suls; to all cases of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction; to controversies to which the United States shall be a party, to con- troversies between two or more states, between a state and citizens of another state, between citizens of different states, between citi- zens of the same state claiming lands under grants of different states, and between a state, or the citizens thereof, and foreign states, citizens, or subjects. In all oases affecting ambassadors, other public ministers, and consuls, and tho«e in which a state shall be a party, the supreme court shall have original jurisdiction. In all the other cases be- ibre mentioned, the supreme court shall have appellate jurisdic- CNfTED STATES.' 585 lion, bolli ns to law aiul fact, with such cxccptioiH, uiul uiivlcr kucli rc|^uhitions, ns the cun-^rcits shall make. The trial of all crimes, except in ca';es of impeachment, shall be by jury, and such trial shall be held in the state wlure the haid crimes shall have been Ciunmitted ; but when not committed within any statr', the trial shall be at such place or places as the congress may by law have directed. Full i'aith and credit shall be given in each state to the public acts, records, and jiulicial proceedings ol" every other state. And the congress may, by penal laws, prescribe the manner in which xuch acts, records, and proceedings shall be proved, and the elicit thereof. New states may be admitted by the congress into this union : but no new state shall be formed or erected within the jurisdiction of any other state — nor any state be formed by the junction of two or more states — without the consent of the legislatures of th« stotes concerned, as well as of the congress. The congress shall have power to dispose of, and make all need- ful rules and regulations respecting the territory or other proper- ty belonging to the United States : and nothing in this constitu- tion shall be so construed, as to prejudice any claims of the United States, or of any particular state. The United States shall guarantee to every state in this union a republican foi*ni of government ; and shall protect each of them against invasion, and on application of the legislature, or of the txecutive (when the legislatiu'c cannot be convened,) against do- mestic violence. The senators and representatives before mentioned, and the members of the several state legislatures, and all executive and judicial officers, both of the United States and of the sevenil states, shall be bound by oath or affirmation to support this con- stitution; but no religious test shall ever be required as a qualifi- cation to any office or public trust under the United States. I cannot close the review of this important country*, without expressing sentiments of adoration of the Supreme IJciug, and of {gratitude for his bounty to man ; which is peculiarly visible in this country, whether we view its inhabitants in their origin, their progress, or their present state; or the coiuitry as being the asy- lum of tile human race. 71 [| I ( v n] M ; 586 UNITED STATES. In contemplating this delightful subject, the mind is naturally led back to the British islands, as that country from which the inhabitants of this have principally sprung. The island of Bri- tain, at a period when mental blackness and darkness had nearly overshadowed the whole earth, became the asylum of oppressed freedom; and though she had to struggle most violently with her ibes even there, yet truth prevailed. The art of printing was dis- covered, knowledge was promulgated ; and liberty, civil and re- ligious, was at last secured to a portion of the human race. Stilly however, the struggle was hard between the friends of freedom and their foes, till the discovery of America secured, for ever, an asylum for the oppressed, and a refuge against the oppressor. It cniphiitically said to tyranny and tyrants, " Hither you may come, but no further. Here shall your proud waves be staid." The inhabitants of the United States having the seeds of free- dom sown among thcHi, have preserved them against all attacks, external and internal ; and they may now be viewed as having taken such root in the habits and manners of the mass of the peo- ple, that they will probably endure while the world lasts. The fruits are, unrestrained freedom of the worship of the Supreme Being, of speech, and of the press; with security of enjoying the fruits of their own industry. Under a government enjoying all these blessings, society must rapidly improve in agriculture, manufactures, commerce, the arts and sciences, and in literature and knowledge. The state of agriculture appears to great advantage in the course of this work, and the subject may be summed Up by staling a fact unknown in many of the old countries. Almost every farmer is a freeholder, and the continuance of that incalculable advantage is secured by the plan adopted by the general government for the disposal of the public lands. The general government possesses in trust for the people of the United States, about 100 millions of acres of land, fit for cultivation, north of the Ohio, and 50 mil- lions south of the Tennessee. If to this be added the right ol purchasing from the Indians, the amount may be doubled; to which may be added 400 millions of acres in Louisiana, in all 700 millions of acres, worth more than 1000 milli as of dollars. These lands are sold to actual settlers, at the low price of 1 dollar 6i cents, cash, or two dollars per acre, with i years to pay it. The purchaser becomes a freeholder, and his title is iudisputabic ; UNITED STATES. 587 while by the plan nJopted tlie country is improved, and the go- vernment draws a great revenue from that source. Manufactures have increased so rapidly during the struggle for commercial rights, that they have become an object of solicitude with the govenmient ; and will unquestionably meet with every possible encouragement.'* Commerce, so necessaiy as an auxiUary to agriculture and ma- nufactures, now that peace is happily restored with Great Britain, will resume its wonted channels, and, it is ho))ed« will hereafter be uninterrupted by the unjust edicts of foreign countries; and that those who prosecute it will recieve an ample reward. The mechanic arts, while they go hand in hand with agricul- ture, manufactures, and commerce, so they partake of their for- tune. In the interior of the country they are in a most flourish- ing state. In cities they have been deprived of the aid of active commerce; but in its place they have received great support from the rapid increase of manufactures. Restored by the peace to their natural level, they will unijuestionably flourish ; while those engaged in them, under the influence of wholesome laws, enacted by legislators chosen by themselves, will be prosperous and happy. Literature and science are so essential to society, that life itself without their aid would be but a poor gift. As they have flourished amid 'the pressure of war, and din of arms, we may calculatt? that they will more eminently flourish during a peace ; and that: the United States, as they are remarkably distinguished for fer- tility and plenty, with a greater degree of freedom than ever fell * On this subject wc are naturally led to take notice of the remarkable oircumstance that at the time when it foocame necessary for America to manufacture the most ma- terial articles of clothing within herself, the merino sheep, heretofore confined t^ Spain, should have been scattered abroad through the world; and cotton hare be come so plenty as to be almost a drug in the European market ; the consequence was a profusion of cotton and wool in America, to an extent that 20 years ago would have been deemed incredible. The annual amount of the American manufactures is esti« mated at upwards of 230 millions of dollars; being upwards of sil times the amount of the greatest importation fur home consumptton. In a message of congress, Feb. 20, 1615, the president observes, *• Thetc is no subject that can enter with grealor force and merit into the deliberations of congress^ than a consideration of the means to preserve and promote Uie manufactures vhich have sprung into existence, and attained an unparalleled maturity throughout the United States, during the period of tlie Euiopcan wars. This source of iudepend> cnce and national wealth, I an^iou$ly rtctfoun^nd t9 tte prompt and constant guar* dianslu'p of congrest. a M I V' rr 588 UNITED STATES. to the lot of ta nation; so they may be distinguished for ull the blessings that knowledge, science, and an enlightened religion can bestow. The peculiar advantages of the inhabitants of this country have been elegantly described by the pen of a distinguished writer. *' Kindly separated by nature and a wide ocean from the exter- minating havoc of one quarter of the globe; too high-minded to endure the degradations of the others ; possessing a chosen coun- try, with room for their descendants, to the thousandth and thou- sandth generation — entertaining a due sense of their equal rights to the use of their own faculties — to the acquisitions of their industry — to honour and confidence from their fellow citizens, resulting not from birth but good conduct — enlightened by a benign religion, professed, indeed, and practised in various forms, yet all of them inculcating honesty, temperance, and the love of man :" the heart that feels these advantages must dilate with joy, and heave with gratitude to the supreme Giver. The vast quantity of fine lands to the west invites ano ^ronr- ages an emigration from the east, and has a tendency to j . i se two sections together by the indissoluble ties of kindred aiicotion ; the manufacturing industry of the north is aided and encouraged by the surplus raw materials and demand for manufactures in the south, and both, feeling the convenience of the exchange, are bound together by the ties of mutual interest ; the progress ol" manufactures and of commerce has a tendency to cement tlic Union every where, and the genius of Washington hovers over it, *' indi8 .'56 70 3169 41 72 22 53 4155 4160 56 o4 Do. W. Do. Atmoi* phere at Noon. Cloudy Clear Cloudy Foggy Clear Do. Do. Do. Cloudy Do. Clear Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Cloudy Clear Do. Do. Do. Do. Cloudy Shower Cloudy Do. I Clear jCloudy IDo. Do. Iciear Do. Cloudy Do. Do. Rain Cloudy Do. Eipencei. Items. D.C Fare to Pbiladel phia by stcam-boat 4 50 Board, &c. Fare to Pittsburg Luggage Board, &c. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. 243 20| ' 350 156 53 } See the 23d Horse hire Bill at Harmony Expences by way 'Bill at Pittsburg 37 157 1 Charges to riettr. Ma- 3 38S Marietta C BUI at Mari 1 J ^BiU 74 31 I Charges to Cir ^^^ r cinnati Cincinnati 250| 7.i.V.' 'i-t.. ■ TABLK OP DISTAMrBS^ SgC. Date. 1811. Sept. 14 15 16 17 16 19 ao ai 22 23 94 25 26 27 28 29 30 Oct. ] 2 3 Situation. 9 a Forward Ohio river Do. Do. West Port Ohio River Loui .le Shelbyville Frankfort Lexington Paris Blue Lick Washington West Union Bainbridge Chillicothe 7|New Lancaster Zajiesvtlle 8 9 10 11 12 13 1 4 Coshocton 15 N.Philadelphia 16 Canton TlSpringfield 8 Tinker's Creek 9 Cleveland 1 1 1 20 21 22 Grand river 33 Ashtabula river 988 9 93 32 Thermo u L3 (A 45 46 62 S0[C2 '35fi5 4268 68 CO 62 60 68 74 62 61 60 50 46 2l|44 20' 56 21^55 32 19 26 22 70 T« 81 77 77 78 72 71 7S 78 3848 19 46 34'54 53t 76 S6C4 62 63 68 67 58 3048 SC|48 24 46 18 SO 3030 12 54 36 30 30 82 30 45 1667 79 Wind at Noon. W. s. Do. Do; S. W. Calm Do. 60 N. E. E. Do. S. W 75164 N. w'. C8C3N. £. 6863S. E. 64C0J!. 58]52 6446 76 60 S 786018. «056,Do, N. W. E. 76j54Do. 54 Do. 70j52N. E. 76 58'S. 70 72 78 76 76 78 54 70 60 Do. 76 Do. 74 Do. 71 Do. 50'S.W. 68 Do. 50'N. E. 58 S. 50].1«S. W. 5834|N. W. 08O England 1130 920 Atlantic Ocean 130(X) 80 United States W^t^ iil.HlU Tlie expcnces of the journey In tlic foregouifj taljte may be arranged as follows : From New York to Pliiladel|»liia From riiiladelpliia to I'itisburgli VJKit to the i lamionixt Society I'lxpunces at Pittslnirgli From I'jtthburjjii to MiricUa At Marietta ... From M.irietta to Cincinnati At Cincinnati . . - It. C. f). C. G 9.3 At Zaneiville - - h 7J 32 75 From Zanesville to (Cleveland 5 73 h 1 2 At Cleveland • - 4 8 6 From Cleveland to the Falls of Xiag. 10 32 6 71 At the falls - - 3 'J5 3 31 From the Falls to Uokc Ontario, and « 94 back to Fort Schlosser 5 1 B 2 50 From Fort Schlosser to Utica 10 91 From Cincinnati to the falls of Ohio 6 At Ulicii 5 f air considered in its natural state, and never stationary — Thiit leads to another consideration of the case. An impure liHuvia, arising froip some cause in the ground, in ihc manner that fermenting li(|uors produce an effluvia near its surface that is fatal to life, will become mixed with the air contiguous to it, and ai fast as tluit body of air moves off, it will imj)regnate every Kucceeding body of air, however pure it may be, when it arrives at the place. 'Ihe result troni this state of the case is, that the impure air or va- pour that generates the yellow fever, issues from the earth, that is. from the new made earth, or ground, raised on the muddy and filthy bottom of the river, which impregnates every frehh body of air that comes over the place, in like manner as air becomes heated when it approaches or passes over the fire, or becomes offensive in smell wtien it approaches or passes over a body of corrupt vegetable or aniutul matter in a state of putrefaction. The muddy bottom of rivers contains great rjuantitics of impurr. and often inflammable air (carburetted hydrogen gas,) injurious to life; and which remains entangled in the mud till let loose from thence by some accident. This air is produced by the dissolution and decomposi- tion of any combustible matter falling into the water, and sinking into the mud, of which the following circumstance will serve to give some explanation. In the fall of the year that New York was evacuated (1783,) gene- ral Washington had his head (|uarters at Mrs. Berrian's, at Rocky-Hill, in Jersey, and I was there. The congress then sat at Princeton. We had several times been told, that the river or creek that runs near the bottom of Rocky-Hill, and over which there is a mill, might be set on 6re — for that was the term the country people used ; and as general Washington had a mind to try the experiment, general Lincoln, who was also there, undertook \o make preparation for it against the next evening, November 5th. This was to be done, as we were told, by disturbing the mud at the bottom of the river, and holding something in a blaze, as paper or straw, a little above the surface of the water. Colonels Humphries and Cob were at that time aid-de-camps of general Washington, and those two gentlemen and myself got into an argument respecting the cause. Their opinion was, that on disturb- ing the bottom of the river, some bituminous matter arose to the sur- face, w hich took fire when the light was put to it. I, en the contrary, supposed that a quantity of inflanunable air was let loose, which as- cended through the water, and took fire above the surface. Each party held to his own opinion, and the next evening the experiment was tu be made. A scow had been stationed in the milldam, and general Washinffton, general Lincoln^ and myself, and I believe colonel Cob (for coTobcI 11 •' [^KJ i!" '.s £98 APPUNDIX, NO. I. Humphries was sick,) nnd three or four Koldiers with poles, were nitf on board the hcow. (rcncral Watihingtun placed himself at one rnu of the Mcow, and I at the other. Each of us had a roll of cartridijc pa- per, which we lighted and held over the water, about two or tlirec inches from the surface, when the soldiers began disturbing the bottom of the river with poles. As general Washington tai at one end of the scow, and I at the other, I could see better any tiling that might happen from his light, than I could from my own, over which I was nearly |)ernendiculnr. When the mud at the bottom was disturbed by the poles, tne uir-hub- bles rose fast, and I savi the Bre take from general Washington's light, and descend from thence to the surface of the water, in a similar tuun- ner as, when a lighted candle is held so as to touch the smoke of a cnn- dlc just blown out, the smoke will take fire, and the fire will descinil and light up the candle. This was demonstrative evidence, that what was called setting the riv^r on fire, was setting the inflammable air on fire that arose out of the mud. I mentioned this experiment to Mr. Rittenhousc, of Philadelphia, the next time I went to that city ; and our opinion on the case was, that the air or vapour that issued from any combustible matter (vegetable or otherwise) that underwent a dissolution and decomposition of its parts, either by fire or water, in a confined place, so as not to blaze, would bo inflammable, and would become name whenever it came it> contact with flame. In order to determine if this was the case, wc filled up the brecclr of a gun barrel about five or six inches with saw-dust, and the upper part with dry snnd to the top, and, after spiking up the touch-hole, put the breech into a smith s furnace, and kept it red hot, so as to consume the saw-dust ; the sand, of consequence, would prevent any blaze. We appplicd a lighted candle to the mouth of the barrel ; as the first vapour that A^iw off would be humid, it extinguished the can- dle ; but, after applying the candle three or four times, the vapour that issued out began to flash. We then tied a bladder over the mouth of the barrel, which the vapour soon filled, and then, tying a string round the neck of the bladder, above the muzzle, took the bladder off. As we could not conveniently make experiments upon the vapour while it was in the bladder, the next operation was, to get it into a phial ; for ttiis purpose, we took a phial of about three or four ounces, filled it with water, put a cork slightly into it, and, introducing it into the neck of the bladder, worked the cork out, by getting hold of it through the bladder, into which the water then emptied itself, and the air in the bladder ascended into the phial ; we then put the cork into the phial, and took it from the bladder. It was now in a convenient condition for experiment. We put a lighted match into the phial, and the air or vapour in it blazed up in the manner of a chimney on fire. We extinguished it >.'ro or three times, by stopping the mouth of the phial ; and putting the lighted match to it again, it repeatedly took nre, till the vapour was spent, and the phial became filled with the atmospheric air. These two experiments — that, in which some combustible substance (branches and leaves of tre^) had been decomposed by water, fn the jnud, and this, where the decomposition had been produced by fire, without blazing, show, that a species of air injurious to life, when .filiation with BSSAY ON YELLOW FEVEn. £ apply these cases, and the rea8(»ning deduced therefrom, to account for the cause of the yellow fever.* First, The yellow fever is not n disorder produced by the climate naturally, or it would alway.s have been here in the hot months. The climate is the same now as it was fifty or a hundred years a^o. Thero was on yellow fever then ; and it is only within the last twelve years that such a disorder has been known in America. Secondly, The low grounds on the s'-oresof the rivers, at the cities, where the yellow fever is anni'i'lly ger "atHvl and continues about a months without spcniiinj?, were not fia! jev- to that disorder in their natural state, or the Indiai;- would Imve foJ's>:tf.en them; whereas, they were the parts most fre(}tit,;i ed '.»v t\o i-;diunfi in all teijsons of the year, cm account of fislniifr. Th.' reau^t from tlif" cases is, that tlio yellow fever is p-odiiccd by g .joo new nircumstan;.*' not common to the country in it; natural sti'Uf , and ii.o quesiir" jj, v!i;*t is that uiMr circumstance? It may be said that e*"-'ry thint done by iJ.e wtiit.'peopl.v tuico their settlement in thccoii;(ir_y, sue!) as ^juiKUng '.(nvnr, c'.jv'iiir.jj IiikIs level- ling hills, and filling up vdlh:ys, iso r- h- cirounscajice • bvt tlit; yr.Kow fever dots not accompany 'iny of ih:f.e now cifivini/nsutc •:- No alter- ation made on the dry land produeet> Or? yc'iow Tc .e!" : wa niu i UuTt • fore, look to some other ne-i i:ircun;,stanoes; anJ we comt run- >.u i,u)iv that have taken place between wee anti dry, bf iwcon hinl ar-d W4a<»r. The shores of the rivers at New \o!rk, nnditlsoat Fhiladtlpbiii, hive, on account of the vast increase of con 'ore8, where those alterations have taken place, that tin; yi ilow fever has been produced. The parts where little or no diUr .ti jn ^:2•^ been made, lithcr on the East or North River, and which cominue in their natural ftate, or nearly so, do not produce ihe yellow fc oi I'tie fdct, there* fore, points to the caufe. Besides several new streets gaincJ from the river by embankment, there are upwards of ei^^iUy ntw Ahurvos Jnr.de since the war, and the much greater part within thi* last ctu or twelve years ; the consequence' of which has been, *I'"i g.i>at quantities of filth, or combustible mat- ter, deposited ir. th.' muddy buttrMU of the river contiguous to lh« shore, and which ,»;'oduced no ill eifect while exposed to the air, and washed tvii-e every twenty-four hours by the tide water, have been covered ov!.r several fet-t deep with new earth, and pent up, and the (i-Je excluded. It is in thcbe places, and in these only, that the yel- low fever is produced. Having thus shown, from the circumstances of the case, that the cause of the yellow fever is in the place where it -makes its appear- ance, or rather in the ocrnicioujs vapour issuing therefrom, I go on to • Tlie author docs not mean to infer, that the inflammable air, or carburottcil hy hc<^ gen gas, is the cause of tlie yellow fever ; but that perhaps it enters into oux' ; a j. .bination with miasm generated ia low grouuds, whidi produces tlie diu-ase. ' ( rk l'.- 600 APPENDIX, yo. 1. jthow a method of constructing wharves, where wharves are yet to hn constructed, as on tlie shore of the East River, at Corlaer's Hook, and olso on the North River, that will not occasion the yellow fever, and which may also point out a method of tenjoving it from places al- ready infected with it. Instead, then, of embanking out the river, and raising solid wharves of earth on the mud bottom of the shore, the better method would be to construct wharves on arches, built of stone. The tide will then flow in under the arch, by which means the shore and the muddy bottom will be washed and kept clean, as if they were in their natural state without wharves. \Mien wharves are constructed on the shore lengthways, that is, without cutting the shore up into slips, arches can easily be turned, be- cause arches joining each other lengthways, serve as buttments to each other ; but when the shore is cut up into slips, there can be no buttments. In this case wharves can be formed on stone pillars, or wooden piles planked over on the top. In either of these case.e, the space underneath will be a commodious shelter or harbour for small boati, which can go in and come out always, except at low water, and be secure from storms and injuries. This method, besides preventing the cause of the yellow fever, which I think it will, will render the wharves more pro- ductive than the present method, because of the space preserved with- in the wharf. I offer no calculation of the expence of constructing wliarves on arch- es or piles ; but on a general view, I believe they will not be so expen- sive as the present method. A very great part of the expence of mak- ing solid wharves of earth is occasioned by the carriage of material, which will be greatly reduced by the methods here proposed, and still more so, were the arches to hit constructed of cast iron blocks. I sup- pose that one ton of cast iron blocks would go as far in the construc- tion of an arch as twenty tons of stone. If, by constructing wharves in such manner that the tide water can wash the shore and bottom of the river contiguous to the shore, as thoy are washed in their natural condition, the yellow fever can be prevent- ed from generating in places where wharves are yet to be constructed, it may point out a method of removing it, at least by degrees, from places already infected with it, which will he, by *)pening the wharves in two or three places in ciich, and letting the tide water pass through. The p.'rts opened can be plai»ked over, so as not to prevent the use of the wharf. In taking up and treating this subject, I have considered it as be- longing to natural philosophy, rather than medicinal art ; and there- fore 1 say nothing about the treatment of the disease after it takes place. 1 leave that part to those whose profession it is to «tudy it. No. 11. Letter to a Member of Parliament on the Orders in Council, and the American Trade. IN the present eventful period of our history, when a v\ar administra- tion seeuis determined, by every act of aggression and folly, to drive their cou.ntry to the utmost extremity of distress, I consider it the duty »*r every man who loves his country, to contribute his utmost efforts tc LETTER TO A MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT. 601 «ave the state. I think I cannot better use mine than by a communica* tion to you, selecting for my subject the relations between this coun- try and America, f prefer making this communication to a public character, because he has the powder of making the best use of the facts communicated. I prefer making it to you, because you appear to me to stand on independent [ground ; I prefer the subject of our relations with America, because I conceive it to be of the greatest national im- portance, and but indifferently understood ; and because, having re« cently been in that country, 1 consider myself pretty well acquainted with it. You are, of course, sufficiently aware of the great importance of the trade between the two countries. The supply of nearly six millions of people with manufactures of every description, must be an object of great consequence to a manufacturing country ; and it is peculiarly be- neficial to this country, from the facility with which it can be carried on. The inhabitants of America speak the same language as ourselves ; they have the same manners and habits ; they are in some measure governed by the same laws; and the articles they have to give in ex- change are exactly such as we want. Now, sir, it is my opinion, that this commerce can not only be car- ried on, but even increased to a much greater extent, unless it be in- terrupted by our own folly. I speak with confidence, from what I know of the people and government of the United States, tiiat they are so much disposed to peace, and a cultivation of their trade, that nothing but the most imperiras necessity will farce them to relinquish their commerce with this country, far less to enter into a state of hos- tility ; but I am afraid that some of our late acts will drive them to the former of these cruel alternatives, and there is no saying how soon the present ministry may drive them to the latter also. It would appear, however, that the ministry act upon no hostile di - sign towards America ; but it is sufficiently obvious, that they havo formed a very mistaken idea of the American character; and it is no fuvourable omen, that their hireling writers dwell with peculiar plea- sure upon every topic calculated to give an uiuaiourable opinion of that country, towards which they have in many instances used the lan- guage of insult. They are supported, too, by a writer, who, hy a knack at making bold assertions, and of supporting them by low bul- lying language, h;js acquired a very consideral)le degree of celebrity i.i this country, who, though a man whose avowed tenets of pdliticiU faith hold him up to public destc'^tation, ind whose rancour ar,aiii«r. America, the cause of which is well known, subjects ev(3ry thin{» he has to say upon that country to at least a considerabL* dcirree of sus- picion ; yet, having resided there, he certainly is looked up to for in- formation. The boldness of his assertions makes tfiein pass current with many, and it is probable his opinions have a '\u\q ."pread in th~to force America into a war with France. Still, however, I do not dread an immediate war with America. Tiie ministry, impolitic as I esteem them, do not appear to have fonnt'd any hostile design a^inst that country ; hut much evil may result from tlicir domineering bullying spirit before matters arc adjusted : and ao iliey appear to be totally ignorant of the American character, tliere is uo say- ing how far they may carry their ♦' vigorous measures," if the Americans stand firm ; and this they assuredly will. From what I know of ihu A- merican character, I am confident they never will submit to the res trio* tions we have been imposing upon their trade for years ; and in particu- lar, they never will submit to these orders in council. What! allow their ships to be forced into this country, searched, taxed, and licenced, be- fore they proceed to France or her dependencies! They are truly bold politicians who have dared to suppose they would. It has been 'I'lcged that the French governmenthave forced us to adopt tliese measures by their blockading decrees ; but those who make the allegation complete- ly overlook the policy of France towards America : for no sooner nere these blockading decrees issued, than the French government avowed in the most distinct terms that they had no reference whatever to the trade between America and Britain ; and that the existing treaty be- tween France and America should have full effect. They not only con- tinued to act upon this principle up to the date of our orders in council, but they gave orders to Spain to release certain American vese^els which were carried into that country in virtue of similar decrees, alleging that the Spanish goverpment had misconceived their meaning. If further proof be wanted, it is only necessary to look at the rate of insurance on American and British vessels for twelve months back. But whatever the French government intended to do before, it is very Certain they will resort to most " vigorous measures" now, for they have already passed decrees not only to set aside the effects of our orders in council, but they proceed a step farther, and declare that if American vessels even suffer themselves to he searched by our ships of war, a mea- sure which they cannot l.elp, they will be duuationalized, and liable to confiscation: so that between the two contending nations, the Ameri- can trade is brought into a more awkward situation than has ever been endured by any neutral power. Oar orders in council are the primary cause ; and the remaining inquiry is : What is likely to be the conse- quence ? Will the present ministry /evoke them ? No : they have vaunted &,. much about their energetic measures that it would be folly to expect it. Will the American government submit to them? No: the independent spirit of the country forbids it. Will France and her dependencies acquiesce in them ? No : Bonaparte does not possess h spirit sufficiently accommodating to warrant us in thinking they will. The most probable conjecture, therefore, is that America will suspend her trade with Europe, throw herself upon the defensive, and in that posture remain till the fighting folks of Europe come to their senseii. When that will be, God knows ; but I am much afraid it will not be while the present administration remain in power. I attribute the ac- cumulated distress which is pressing upon my country to the false policy which has been acted upon for many years past; and I am firmly per- suaded that we shall never enjoy repose nor prosperity till her counciU are swayed by men " who will do to others as they would be done by.' i ;• i !l If! l't-1 m m G06 AFPENDIX, SO. It. This, it is my Brm belief, the preaent ministry never will do: and, there- fore, I sincerely hope that God, in mercy to mankind, will be pleased to remove them soon, and that he will substitute in their place men of up> lightness and integrity, who fear God and hate covetousness. I am, &c. . Jauuart/, '25, \h08. J. M. P. S. Jan 27.— Since the foregoing letter was written, advice has been received, that what I anticipated has partly taken place. An em- bargo has been laid in America, and it is easy to see the disastrous con- sequences which must be the result* However, some of our ener vet ic ))oliticians here are talking very big about reducing the Yankees to obe- dience. No doL^bt they anticipate that glorious sport will result from an American war ; and, to gratify them, perhaps their masters may car- ry matters to that extremity. If they do, I have yet one piece of news in store for them : The Americans never will make peace until the free- dom of the seas be completely and unequivocally recognized as a basis! The above letter was sent to the editor of a periodical paper in the month of June following, accompanied by the subsequent remarks : The foregoing letter was sent to a member of parliament in the month of January last, and a copy of it was intended to be sent to your Review at the same time ; but other avocations retarded it for a few weeks, and upon reflection, it was judged adviseable to decline the publication until the new system adopted towards America should fully develope itself. I am now sorry to find that the most of my conjectures, unfavourable as they were, are short of the reality. I find, too, that they are corro- borated by the opinions of men of the most extensive information and judgment : Mr. baring's very able pamphlet upon the orders in council, and Mr. Brougham's admirable speech upon tne same subject, in sum- ming up the evidence before the house of commons, are before the pub- lic, and ought to be read by every commercial man in these kingdoms. Sanctioned by these, and by the evidence of facts, further reserve is un- necessary. We cannot stem the torrent,— but we- c»n endeavour to o- pen the eyes of our countrymen to see the sacrifice which many of them are so loudly calling for; and we can prepare such of them as are open to conviction for what will infallibly be the issue, if the system is long persevered in. Necessity may compel the American government to en- courage their own manufactures for the present ; and if they be once established, justice to the manufacturers may call upon it to protect them. We run great risk of losing the trade with the United States of America for ever. Extractsjrom the Speech of Mr. Brougham before the House of Commons, April 1, 1808. SIR, until our orders in council were issued, it appears clearly, with- out any reasoning, to any one who looks at the subject, that there was no possibility whatever of Bonaparte putting his threats into execution. You will find that in every quarter we have, by our orders in council, been crossing and striking in with the enemy's plans, and supplying those deficiencies in their orders which they in vain attempted to make up. You will see too what the result has been ; that the commerce of this once flourishing country is now brought down to a state lower than it ever was expected to reach, even by the most gloomy prophets* in the worst times of our history. EXTRACTS FROM BROUGHAM S SPEECH. 607 I hold in my hand a paper ordered to be printed on tho l.'th of March, and giving the .alue of imports from the United State's, and exports thither for the years \S05y 1806, and 1807. It a-mearsfrom this docu- ment, that, in 18()f>, the imports from America to Great Britain amount- ed to 4, 360,743/. real value, and that the exports from Great Britain to the United States, in the same year, amounted to 1 '2,865, Wl/ ; and, by tho average of those three years, we find the exports to the United States of America amount to upwards of twelve millions sterling, and the average of imports to upwards of four millions and a half; and as the disproportion is increasing, we may say, in general, that this country now exports to America three times as much as she imports from thence. I have just to ask the house this one question : Are you willing to con- tinue exporting to America twelve millions and a half of British produce and manufactures ; or arc you not? If you are, how are you to be paid for it? It is evident that you only receive four millions direct from A- merica ; therefore, there are no less than eight millions wantinj^, and America, we all know, can only pay you by trading with the continent. If you wish to cut up that trade by the roots, you commit that old so- lecism of power, as my lord Bacon so well calls it — you wish to com- mand the end ; but you refuse to submit to the means. You desire to trade with the United States of America; but you desire, at the same time, to lop oif their trade with the enemy, as you call it, which is, in o- ther words, lopping off' the very commerce which you carry on with your enemy, in spite of the war, and in spite of himself, by which you were getting eight millions sterling each year — by which you were ena- bled to continue a trading nation. You are destroying the only meansi by which America can pay that enormous amount to you. She must have the opportunity not only of taking your goods, but of exporting her own, in order to pay you. She must not only export her own goods — she must also re-export yours with them, in order that you may still send them to your enemy, notwithstanding the hostilities you are engag- ed in — notwithstanding the decrees he is threatening your trade with. So stands the matter in argument, or, if you will, in theory ; and I now invite this house to say whether it is possible for them to conceive any th'ng more precise and conclusive than the evidence which has been ad- duced at your bar, to show that this is also the matter of fact, from the actual history of our trade witii America. Therefore, Sir, I say that in every point of view in which we can look at this new system of commercial regulation we see but one effect, name- ly, that of ruining and cuttuig off', root and brancli, the whole ot our traffic with the United States of America ; or, in other words, I may say, the whole of our foreign trade. Sir, this short and summary view of the measure, even without the aid of the statement so satisfactorily set forth in the evidence before you, will, I trust, prove sufliciontly decis;iveto entitle me to leave this branch of the argument without one further comment ; and to affirm that I have completely demonstrated a prop -.sition at tirst sight rtithcr paradoxical : that England has, by hat own measures, eft'octualty, strictly, vigorously, couutersijjiied the enemy's edict. inl I 1 ■mi «03 ArrtNuix, Ko 11/, No. III. Tirmarks on the Scottish Peasantri^. Extracted from Curric's edition of Bums' Works. A SLIGHT acquaintance with the peasantry of Scotland will snrvc to convince an unprejudiced observer that they possess a degree of in- teliigetice not jrenerally found among the same cl isions made to render these means effectual to their purpose. This ex- cellent statute was repealed on the accession of Charles II. in 1660, to- gether with all the other laws passed during the commonwealth, as not bcinc sanctioned by the royal assent. It slept during the reigcs of Charles and .lames; but was re-enacted precisely in the same terms by the Scottish Parliament, after the revolution in 1696 ; and tins is tlit> hist provision on the subject. Its eHects on the national character may be considered to have commenced about the period of the Union ; and doubtless it co-opeiatcd with the peace and security arising from that happy event, in producing the extraordinary change in favour of industry »nd good morals which the character of the common people of Scotland has since undergone. The church-establishment of Scotland happily coincides with the in- stitution just mentioned, which may be called its school-establishment. Tue clergyman, being every where resident in his particular parish, be- comes the natural patron and superintendant of the parish-school : and is enabled m various ways to promote the comfort o^ the teacher, and the proficiency of the scholars. The teacher himself is oflen a candi- duie for holy orders, who, during the long course of study and proba tion required in the Scottish church, renders the time which can be spar- ed from his professional studies useful to others as well as himself, by ff^suniing the respectable character of a school-master. It is common for rhe establiyhed schools, even in the country parishes of Scotland, tJ enjoy the means of classical instruction; and many of the farmers, and souie even of the cottagers, subnut to much privation that they may ob- tarn for one of their sons, at least, the precarious advantage of a learned education The difficulty to be surn.ounted arises, indeed, not from the expense of instructing their children ; 'out from the charge of support- ing them In the oontry parish-schools the English language, writing, and accounts are generally taught at the rate of siK shillings, and Latia at the rate often or twelve shillings, per annum, in the towns the pri* ces are somewhat hi^^her. It would be improper in this plane to ir..j[uire minutely into thede* REMARKS OH THE SCOTTISH PEASANTRY. 609 greos of initrucf ion received at these seminaries, or to attempt any pre- cise estimate of its eH'ects either on the individuals who are the suhjecti of this instruction or on the community to wliich they belonjj. Th»t it h, on the whole, favourable to industry and morale, thout^h doubtless with some individual exceptions, seems to be proved by the most strik- ing and decisive appearances; and it is equally clear that it is the cause of that spirit of emigration and of ad>'enture so prevalent among the Scots. Knowledge has by Lord Verulam boen denominated power ; by others it has, with less propriety, been denominiited virtue or happi* ness : we may with confidence consider it as a motion. A humun being, in proportion us he is informed, has his wishes enlarged, as well as tht; means of gratifying those wishes. He may be considered as taking within the sphere of his vision a large portion of the globe on which wu tread, and discovering advantage at a greater distance on its surface. His desires or ambition, once excited, are stimulated by his imagination, and distant and uncertain objects giving freer scope to the operation of this faculty, oflen acquire in the mind of the youthful adventurer an attraction from their very distance and uncertainty. If, therefore, a greater degree of instruction be given to the peasantry of a country comparatively poor, in the neighbourhood of other countries rich in na- tural and acquired advantages, and if the barriers be removed that kept them separate, emigration trom the former to the latter will take place to a certain extent, by laws nearly as uniform as those by which heat diifuses itself among surrounding bodies, or water finds its level when left to its natural course. By the articles of the Union the barrier was broken down which divided the two British nations, and knowledge and poverty poured the adventurous natives of the north over the fertile plains of England, and more especially over the colonies which she had settled in the east and in the west. The stream of population continues to flow from the north to the south ; for the causes that originally im> pelled it continue to operate : and the richer country is constantly invi- gorated by the accession of an informed and hardy race of men, educat- ed in poverty, and prepared for hardship and danger, patient of labour, and prodigal of life. The preachers of the reformation in Scotland were disciples of Calvin, and brought with them the temper as well as the tenets of that celebrat- heresiarch. The presbyterian form of worship and of church govern- ment was endeared to the people from its being established by them- selves. It was endeared to them also by the struggle it hud to maintain with the Catholic and the Protestant episcopal churches, over both of which, after a hundred years of fierce, and sometimes bloody contention, it finally triumphed, receiving the countenance of government, and the sanction of law. During this long period of contention and of suffering the temper of the people became more and more obstinate and bigotted, and the nation received that deep tinge of fanaticism which coloured their public transactions as well as their private virtues, and of which evident traces may be found in our own times. When the public schools were established, the instruction communicated in them partook of the religious character of the people. The Catechism of the Westminster Divines was the universal school-book, and was put into the liands of the young peasant as soon as he had acqui'ed a knowledge of his alphabet ; and his first exercise in the art of reading introduced him to tlie nio*t iiiyssterious doctrines of the Christian faith. This practice U continued W^ r¥ 610 APPEKDIX, NO. lit. in our own times. Aflcr the ABRenibly'ii Cutechism, the Proverbs of Solomon and the New nn<) Old Testament follow in regular succes- cion; and the scholar drparts. f^ifled with the knowledge of the sacred M'rrtinps, and receiving their doctrines according to the interpretation of the WestminAter Confessiou of Faith. Thus, with the instruction of infancy in the schools of Scotland, are blended the dogmas of the national church ; and hence the first and most constant exercise of in< genuity arooni; the peasantry of Scotland id displaced in religious dis- putation. With a strong attachmt^nt to the national creed, is con- joined a bigoted preference of certain forms of worship : the source of which would be of\on altogether obscure, if we did not recolltct that the ceremonies of the Scottisli church were framed in direct op- position, in every point, to those of the church of Rome. The information and the religious education of the peasantry of Scotland promote sedateness of conduct, and habits of thought and reflection. — These good qualities are not counteracted by the establish- ment of poor-laws, which, while tley reflect ciedit on the benevolence, detract irom the wisdom of the English legislature. Happily, in Scotland, the same legislature which established a sys- tem of instruction for the poor, resisted the introduction of a legal pro- vision for the support of ipoverty ; the establishment of the firs^t, and the rejection of the last, wore equally favourable to industry and good morals ; and hence it wilt not appear surprising, if the Scottish peasan- try have a more than usual lihare of prudence and reflection, if they ap- proach nearer than persons of their ordi r usually do to the definition of a man, that of ** a being that looks before the after." These observa- tions must, indeed, be taken with many exceptions : the favourable operation of the causes just mentioned iH counteracted by others of an opponitu tendency ; and the subject, if fully examined, would lead to diticussions of great extent. When the reformation was established in Scotland, instrumental music was binished from the churches, as savouring too much of " profane minstrelsy." Instead of being regulated by an instrument, the voices of the congregation are led and directed by a person under the name of a precentor, and the people are all expected to join in the tune which he choses for the psalm which is to be sung. Church^ music is therefore a part of the education of the peasantry of Scotland^ in which they are usually instructed in the long winter nights by the parish sciiooi-master, who is generally the precentor, or by itinerant teachers more celebrated for their powers of voice. This branch of education had, in ttie last reign, fallen into some neglect, but was re- vived about thirty or forty years ago, when the music itself was re- formed and improved. That dancing should also be very generally a part of the education of the Scottish peasantry, will surprise those who have only seen thii description of men : and still more those who redect on the rigid spirit of Calvinism, with which the nation is so deeply affectedi and to which this recreation is strongly abhorrent. The winter is also the season when ttiey acquire dancing, and indeed almost all their other instruction. They are taught to dance by persons generally of their Awn number, many of whom work at daily labour during the summer months. The school is usually a barn, and the arena for the perform- ers is generally u clay floor. The dome is lighted by candles stuck in •ne ei wall, tised. no pla every very g women thi'se c Scottis erect, with se fermen tion, ai as well now gei Englaiu In anoti land. Thep people 8 one of t finds in to tiie Si •ibility, that find This ti blished ri nued an( from the ceire, or trines am the schoc of the pe( mceti'ngg their spjr and prud The re ^rtff in Sc gress of i qlJJrer, tb had taken quity stro The im deepened lections, c those qf ot treat of lo proportion they exhib spirit of af not to be s "U-ainsof ] I of ces- :red it ion :tion I the )f in- s dis- con- nurce olltct :t op- try of It and iblish- )lcnce« 1 a sya- al pro- tit, and (1 good peosan- hey ap- lition of )b9erva- purable pa of an lead to location leen thia lid spirit and to [also the uir other of their 1 summer jerforoi- [stuck in REMARKS ON Tilt SCOTTrSH PEASANTRY. CI I •ne end of a cloven 8tick, the other end of which in thrust Into the wall. Heels, strathspeya, country-dances, and hornpipes are here prac- tised. The jig, so much in favour among the English pea8;»iitry, his^ no place among them The attachment of the people of Scotland of every rank, and particularly of the peasantry, to this amusement, is very great. After the labours of the day are over, young men and women walk many nules, in the cold anil dreary nights of winter, to thvse country dancing-schools ; and the instant that the violin sounds u Scottish air, fatigue seems to vanish, the toil-bent rustic becomes erect, his features brighten with sympathy ; every nerve seems to thrill with sensation, and every artery to %ibrate with life. These rustic per- formers are less to be admired for grace, than for agility and anima- tion, and their accurate observance of time. Their inoded of dancing, «8 well as their tunes, are common to every rank m Scotland, and are now generally known. In our own day they have penetrated into England, and have established themselves even in the circle of royalty. In anottier generation they will be naturalized in every part of the is- land. The prevalence of this taste, or rather passion for dancing, among a people so deeply tinctured with the spirit and doctrines of Calvin, is one of those contradictions which the pliitosophic observer so often finds in national character and manners. It is probably to be ascribed to tiie Scottish niusrc, which through all its varieties, is so full of sen- sibility, and which, in its livelier strains, awake« those vivid emotions that Hnd in dancing their natural solace and relief. This triumph of the music of Scotland over the spirit of the esta* |)li8hed religion, hat* not, however, been obtained without long-conti- nued and obstinate struggles. The numerous sectaries who dissent from the establishment, on account qf the relaxation which they per- ceive, or tiiink they perceive, in the churcii, from her original doc- trines and discipline, universally condemn the practice of dincing, and the schools where it is taught ; and the more elderly and serious part of the people of every persuasion, tolerate rather than apprqve these incetings of the young of both sexes, where dancing is practised to tl^eir spirit-stirring music, where care is dispelled, toil is forgotten, and prudence itself is sometimes lulled to sleep. The reformation, which proved fatal to the rise of the other fine firts in Scotland, probably impeded, but could not obstruct, the pro- gress of its music; a circumstance that will convince the impartial in- quirer, that this music not only existed previously to that sera. bu( had taken a tirm hold of the nation ; thus aifording a proof of its anti- quity stronger than any produced by the researches of our antiquaries. The impression whxii the Scottish music has made on the people, is deepened by its union with the national songs, of which various col- lections, of unequal merit, are before the )>ublic. These songs; liks those qf other nations, are many of them humourous, but they cliiefly treat of love, war, and drinking. Love is the subject of the greater proportion. Without displaying the higher powers of the imagination, tl)ey exhibit a perfect kno"''edge of the nuinan heart, and breathe a spirit of affection, and soun^times of delicate and romantic tenderness, not to be surpassed in modern poetry, and which the more polished itlTMns- of antiquity hav« seldom possessed. f' m ^ I ' 1 i: 612 APPENorx, no, iir. 'i'liert' is now a legal provision for parnchinl nchooN, or rathrr for a lichnol in cuch of titu ililForent towufiliips into whicli tliu country in divicli'd, in scvurul of tliu northern states of North America 'I'hey ure, however, of rt-cent origin tlicre, excepting in New Knglinul, HJicre they were ce•ttll)li^hc'(l in the Inst century, probably nhout the same time us in Scotlaiul, ami l)y the name religious sect. This is uIno the case in certain districtH in Kngland, particularly in the northern parts of Yorkshire anil of Luncashire, anil in the counties of West- niur;.laiul and Cunibi^rlund. A law, providing for the instruction of the poor, was passed by the parliament of Ireland; but the fund was divcrlid from itM purpose, and the meaurt; was entirely frustrateil. Proh pndor !* The similarity of character between the Seots and the people of New England can scarcely be overlooked, 'i'hut it arises in a great measure from the similarity of their institutions for instruction, cannot be questioned. It is no doubt increased by physical causes. With :i superior degree of instruction, tuch of these nations possesses a coun- try that may be said to be sterile, in the neighbourhood of countries comparatively rich. Hence emigrations, and other etl'ects on conduct and character which such circumstances naturally produce. This sub- ject is in a high degree curious. The points of dissimilarity between these nations might be traced to their causes also, and ttie whole inves- tigation would perhaps admit of an approach to certainty in our con- clusion, to which such inquiries seldom lead. How much superior in morals, in intellect, and in happiness, the peasantry of those parts of England arc, who i.avc opportunities of instruction, to the same class in other situations, those who inquire into the subject will speedily discover. The peasantry of Westmoreland, and of the other aistricts mentioned above, if their physical and moral qualities be taken to- gether, arc, in the opinion of the editor, superior to the peasantry of any part of the island.^ From the foregoing account of the parish establishment of Scotland, it will readily be perceived that the Scottish peasantry are placed un- der circumstances peculiarly favourable to the dissemination of know- ledge among them. As they receive an eorly education, they are ge- nerally intelligent, and have a taste for reading, but, being mostly in poor circumstances, books, to a great extent, are not within their reach. To provide for the general dissemination of knowledge, by books, it occured to me, that an excellent plan would be to adopt a system of public librarii'S, one to be established in each parish. I communicated this idea to a friend in the beginning of the year 1804. He concurred wita me in opinion ; and, witli a vieie of trying * «' With what execration should the statesman be loaded" who could frustrate ■ measure »o beneficial to society ! If the stalesmun \vho neglects ta provide the meant of instniciion be culpable, what are we to think of thuttc who aie opposed to the iiistiuc- tion ot' the mass of the people altogether ? f A bill was brought into tlie British parliament, by Mr. Whitbread, in 180?, to make provision for the education of the people of Englaad. It was opposed by tbe whole tory and court influcuc« uf tbe country, including even Mr. Wyndham, a pr«" tended whig. • REMARKS ON THE SCOTTISH PEAMANTRY. 019 iu practicability, we digested tho plau uf n library to be establinliod in the city of Glasgow, upon ^uich [irinciplcii that it might, with somo modifications, be adopted tir ougliout tlmt, or any other country. The gruutust diificulty we hud to encounter, in putting thik plan in ex- edition, was in the attempt to make the property entirely public, and to introduce u principle by wmicIi every member of the coiumunity, in all time coming, might avail tliemsilveii of tlie use of the library on the sanu- ternis as the original subacribcrs. We made many attemptfl» but could not get u sinijle individual to join u», and the plan was like- ly to be abandoned, when it oeciirred to my friend, who was a little eccentric, that wc c«< itd cstablittli the library ouoelves. This idea was adopted. We i\r , up and signed the regulations ; paid our entry- money and annual contribution, and with the amount purchurcd Paley'a Natural Theology, and Lord Lauderdale's essay on Public Weitlth, ivhich laid the foundation of the library. My friend took the ofKcc of librarian, and I held all the other offices. \Vc held regular meetings, and had much intellectual pleasure in superintending our infant insti- tution. The circumstance developed a new fact in the history of liter- ature, namely, that two members were sufficient to form a library. In the course of a few weeks, wc were joined by two or three more, and the funds thry contributed were immediately laid out in the pur- chase of popular bookM, which enabled us to gratify our new subcrib- ers as fast as th( y joined U9. By the month of December, the sub- Bcribcrs amounted to S1-, and there were 4-(> volumes in the library. A general meeting was then held, and the library was formally insti- tuted on the tenth of that month. Another meeting was held on tl^e 3d of January, 1805, when office-bearers were elected, and the institu- tion has since prospered in a very eminent degree. Its progress for the first four years is exhibited in the following tabic. Since the year 1808, it progress has been more rapid ; it now contains nearly .'lOOO volumes of cimice books, and promises to become one of the most ex- tensive libraries in the British islands. It is worthy of remark, that party politics were never known in the institution. Table of the Rise and Progress qf the Clasgoio Public Librari/. are ge- )stly in reach, ooks, it stem of ;he year " trying jstrate t le mean* be insUuc- 1808, to Id by tUe ^ ra. Subscribert, No. volt. Xo. Subscribers. A'^. vot$. 2 2 2 Oct. I 210 808 94 40 1807. Jan. 1 240 945 54 53 April 1 259 1086 72 169 July 1 275 1105 IflS 345 Oct. I 289 1157 \M 4»9 1808. Jun. 1 313 1961 169 487 April 1 317 1453 178 745 July I 332 1476 199 7e2 Sept. 16 339 1502 1804. July Dec. 10 1805. Jan. April July Oct. 1806. Jan. April July Since I lefl the country, the library has been incorporated, on which occasion the articles were somewhat modified, and are not now sufficiently expressive of the original principles of the institution, in consequence of which I have inserted the words in italics^ in the fol- lowing abstract of the modified copy. »li ArPENSrX, KO. III. R«guhtions of the Glasgoxu Public Library, instituted December^ 1804. •* The attainment of mans true rank in the creation, and his present and Jkture happiness, individual as well as public, depend on the cultivation und proper direction of the human Jaculties." To provide the means of diffusing literature and knowledge, is an object of the greatest importance to society, and claims the attention of weruj'nendto mankind. for this purpose, it lias been judged a matter of great utility, to es- tablish and to keep up in all time coming, a PUBLIC LIBRARY in TH£ CITY OF GLASGOW, wliich shall be open, under proper regulations, to all inclined to take the benefit of it, upon paying a small sum annu- ally, towards its support and increase. For establishing such a library, the members agree upon the foU lowiag KEGULATIONS. L Each subscriber, upon his admission, shall pay to the treasurer for the rime, twelve shillings of entry-money ; and the object being the general dissemination of hiowledge, the entry- money shall never be raiised. Yl, Each member shall pay an annual contribution of ten shillings imd six-pence. Those who enter betwixt the first of January and the ^fst of April, shall pay a full year's contribution; those who enter hetwixt the first of April and the first of October, a iialf year's con- tribution; and those who enter betwixt the first of October, and the first of January, shall be free till January. The annual contribution shall be paid on or before the second VVednesday of January yearly, and those, who fhil to do so, shall not have any right to the use of the library till it is paid. Such members as may be under the neces- sity of leaving the place, shall, on their return, he entitled to the use of the library, on paying the annual contribution for the year then ' current, and exigible from those members. Should any person who has been a member for five years, become unable to pay the annual contribution, he will be entitled to the use of the library gratis. The curators for the time will be judges of such claims. lit. Such as tviish at any time to become members of this institution, ' shall pay the entry-money and annual contributimi, in terms of the J'oregO' ing article, to the treasurer, tvho will give a receipt, and, upon producing it to the librarian, he is empoivered to add his name to the lid of subscri- hers, and admit him a member accordingly. Tiie right of a member to the use of the library may be transferred to any other person, upon such member sending a letter to that effect ro the treasurer, and the person, to whom the transfer is made, paying two shillings and six- pence in name of entry- money. IV. The funds to be raised in virtue of this institution, shall, after d^?fraying the necessary expences, be applied in purchasing books of approved merit only. Of these a judgment will be formed by a ma- jority of the members, at each general meeting. But no purchase shall at any time, be made, to a greuter extent than the funds in hand «re sttffi«i8nt to pay. INSTITUTION OF THE 0LA8OOW PI^BLIC LIBRARY. 61i V. The property of the library shall be, and the same is hereby vested in the members in thui^t, for the purposes of the institution, the title whereof tthall be, " The Glasgow ruBJUic Lisraat, insxi« TUTED IN THE YEAR 1 804-." VI. There shall be four general meetings annually, viz. on the first Wednesday of January, the first Wednesday of April, the first Wed- nesday of July, and the first Wednesday of October. Intimation of the place and hour of sucli meetings, shall be Fent to each meinber by the sccrciary or librarian, three days before the meetings take place. Extraordinary general meetings upon special affairs may, in like man- ner, at any time be called by the curators, who f. tall als>: be obliged to call such meetings within eight days after a written request to that effect is made to them, by any 12 of the members. VII. The management of this instiLution shall be vested in a com- mittee, consisting of nine curators, a treasurer, secretary, and libra* rian ; of whom four shall at all times be a quorum. The election shall take place at the general meeting, on the first Wednesday of Janu- ary, yearly, by a majority of the members then assembled. The three curators who are then at the head of the list, shall go out of the office, Rnd three others shall be elected in their place, and added, in the order of their election, to the foot of the list. T le pret^iding curator stiall put the question, which of the members shu!l be first elected one of the three curators; and from the person so elected, he shall, either- in presence of tlie meeting, or at the first subse<|uent meeting of the curators, take a solemn promise, that he will discliarge the duties of his office with fidelity. And in like manner the election of the second and third curators, of the treasurer, secretary, and librarian, shall be conducted. When a vacancy occurs in the curacy, it shali be filled up by the members at the next general meeting, and the person or per- sons so elected, shall, in the order of their election, be added to the foot of the list of curators. Tiie offices of treasurer and secretary, may be vested in one or two persons, as the meeting may think pro« per, who, with the librarian, may be continued at pleasure. At all meetings, the first curator shall be present; in the absence, the next curator, and so on to the last; in the absence of all the curators, the treasurer ; and in his absence, the eldest member present. Vlil. The treasurer shall have the management of the society*! funds, and the secretary of the minutes and correspondence, and both offices shall be purely honorary. The librarian, who is also under se- cretary, shall have the management of the books of the library, sub- ject to the rules made, or to be made, by the members fur its govern- ment, and may or may not have a salary, as circumstances siuill di- rect. IX. A meeting of the contmittee shall be held on the Wednesday pre- vious to each general meeting, when the treasurer shall Ity a state of his transactions befure them, for the purpose of being audited and set- tled, and the balance in his hands ascertained. They will then in- form themselves of the state of the library, and make out a report thereon, to be laid before the general meeting, together with a list of such books as they would reconunend for the use of the library. And the better to enable them to prepare such list, every member is invited to lodge with the librarian, before the committee meetings take place« a memorandum of such books, not exceeding five in number, as meet 616 Al^PEKDIX, NO. III. his approbation. The (Committee shall also cause a list of the mem- bers to be made up eight days previous to the general meeting, on the first Wednesday of January, yearly, which list shall be entered in a book kept for the purpose, signed by the secretary, and 8hall, if re- (]uired, be produced at every general meeting. To that list shall be added the names of those who, during the year, have become members of the institution, and from it the names of those who die, reriigii, or forfeit their right, shall be delated. The first curator and secretary shall have power to call a meeting of the committee, as often as tliey may think necessary, of which the secretary shall give proper notice to all the members, the day before such meetings take place ; and it shall be incumbent on every menjber to attend, or to send a written excuse to the satisfaction of the meet- inp-. But if any member neglect to attend, or to send an excuse for two successive meetings, he slial) be held as having resijjned his office. X. At each quarterly general meeting, a report of the proceedings of the committee shall be laid before the members for their considera- tion. The list of books previously prepared by the committee, sliall albo be laid before them, from which they shall make a selection, with any additions they may judge proper, and give orders to the treasurer which to purchase accordingly. XI. A majority of two- 1 birds of the subscribers, at any general meeting assembled, may apply to the crown for a charter of incorpo- ration, or to the provost, ujagistrates, and towu'-council of the city of Glasgow, for a seal of cause, in confirmation of these regulations. The society reserve the power of adding to, altering, or amending these regulations. But no such additions, alterations, or amendments shall be made, unless a specific motion in writing is made, seconded, and entered upon the minutes, at a general meeting of the society. And, in order to allow the members time to deliberate on ihe proprie- ty of such additions, alterations, or amendments, thus made and se- conded, the consideration thereof shall not be resumed until the quar- terly meeting, occurring three months thereafter, and if approved o( by two-thirds of the members present at such (|uarterly meeting, the same shall thenceforward become a law of the society. But it is de- clared that no law shall ever be passed to dissolve the socict//, or to pre- vent the public at large J'rain participating in its advantages, hy ruiwig the entry-money. RULES FOR THE LIBRARIAN. I, The librarian shall keep the key of the library, and have the custody of the books, for which he siiall be accountable. When he enters on his charge, he shall receive an exact catalogue of the books, subscribed by the treasurer and five of the curators, which shall lie in the library ; and a copy of this catalogue, subscribed by the librarian, with an acknowledgment of his having received Mie books therein, shall be lodged with the treasurer. II. Each subscriber shall be entitled to receive from the librarian, and have iu his possesssion at one time, only, one volume of folio, or of quarto : or two volumes in any one book of octavo and under: but VN hen any book consists of one volume, be shall be entitled to that- volume only. ON THE BRITISH AND AMERICAK TRADE. tin III. Books in folio may be kept out of the library six weeks at a time; in quarto, four weeks ; in octavo and under, two weeks. A single nuni< ber of any book, review, or magazine, four days only. IV. If any subscriber detain a book heyond the time specified, he must pay a fine of three-pence for ever;^ A^eek the book is so detained, and for a less time in proportion ; and lie can have no other book from the library till the former be returned, and the fine paid. V. If any subscriber shall lend, or suffer to be lent out of his house or family, any book or pamphlet belonging to the library, he shall forfeit two shillings and six-pence for the first o£Pence, five shillings for the se- cond, and if guilty of a third, he shall forff^it all right to the library. VI. If a subscriber h/se a book, he must pay the value of it; or if a volume of a set be lost, that set must be taken and paid for. If any book be injured beyond what may be reasonably allowed for the using, it must be laid before the committee for their determination, and the injury be paid for to tbtir satisfaction. VII. The librarian must take a receipt, in a book to be kept for t : purpose, for every book lent out ; but should it be inconvenient for ... y subscriber to attend in person for the purpose of granting such receipt, he must send a line to the librarian, who will in that case be authorized to subscribe for him. VIII. The librarian must lend out the books to the subscribers in the order of their application. A subscriber, afler keeping a book the time specified, may take it out anew, provided no other subscriber ha$ applied for it in the interim. When I was in Edinburgh, in the month of January, 1809, I inserted an account '/"the institution in the Scots Magazine, preparatory to re- «;ommendiL5 ihe plan for parish libraries in that work. My subsequent operations have defeated that intention, in consequence of which I have introduced the subject here ; and the plan being founded on the princi- pies of equality, and having answered well in practice, I have no hesita- tion in strongly recommending it to those who may be concerned in es- tablishing public libraries. ^|.- 1 '^l- m »ve the len he I books, in the II, with liall be i No. IV. Essat/ on the Trade between Britain and America. FOR THE AURORA. The inhabitants of Great Britain and the United States of America are so allied by consanguinity, by language, by their mutual wants, and by their ability to serve each other, that a commercial intercourse be twcen them is of more importance than between any other two nations in the world. Circumstances of a very extraordinary nature have oc- i;urred to interrupt this commerce, and matters have of late assumed such a serious appearance that very gloomy apprehensions begin to be entertained that it may be entirely cut off. The great in>portance of the subject may be deduced from the manner in which it has engrossed the Utention of all ranks of the community in both countries; and, as might he expected, very many erroneous speculations are afloat upon it. In particular, the primary cause of the interruption has been studiously kept from the public view, while other causes have been alleged which have no existence in fact ; and many writers on both sides of the quei- 7¥ 618 APMKDIX, KO. IV. tion have not scrupled to affirm that the trade between the two couii<. tries is of little importance. I shall in this communication take a sum- inary glance of the nature of this commerce, making such deductions as I think the subject warrants ; and I shall assign a reason for the inter- ruption, which I believe to be correct. 1 shall assume as a data that the exports from Great Britain to Ame- rica Ithvc of late amounted annually to about 12 millions sterling, or about 53 millions of dollars ; and that the returns in American produce liave amounted to about 5 millions sterling, or about 22 millions of dollars. The balance was paid to Britain by bills of exchange arising from the trade between America and the continent of Europe ; and tlie greater part of the rarrying trade has been in American vessels. Now, the exports from Britain to America have consisted principally of manufactures, which that ingenious and industrious people have brought to great perfection, and can, in general, furnish on better terms than any other nation in the \vorlii. This arises from the manner in which the manulhcturcs are ortrani/ed. Particular branches have het-n brought to maturity in prirticular districts of country best calculcted for carrying them on ; thus — cotton manufactures in Manchester, Glasgow, Paisley, &c. linen manufactures in Ir'^-land, and different parts of Scot- land; woollens in Leeds, Bury, Shrewsbury, &c. hardware in Birming- ham, cutlery in Sheffield, hosiery in Nottingham, Leicester, &c. &c. The necessary divisions and sub-divisions of labour have taken place. The labourers are possessed of a patient industry and a frugal economy which cannot be surpassed. A great portion of the labour is performed by ma- ci:'incry, more especially since the successful introduction of ihe steam engine ; so tliat all the articles above enumerated, and many others that might ho mentioned, can, notwithstanding the press of taxation arising from the dissipation of the court, be furnisiied in Britain on better terms than in any other nation whatever. Now, it is surely the interest of the people of Britain to dispose of as many of these manufactures as possible. 'i hey cannot get a better market than the United States. It is the interest of the people of the United States to receive them, so long as they can apply their industry .o better advantage in clearinjj; and cultivating their lands, and in applying to other branches of internal policy. Again, the returns that are made to Britain are mutually advantageous. They clear the hands of the growers of produce here of their surplus ar- ticles, at fair prices ; and furnish a supply of raw materials for the manu- factures, and of food for the manufacturers, of timber for buildings and machinery, of ashes for their bleachfields ; to say nothing of many other articles of utility, convenience and luxury. As to the carrying part, it has been mostly in American vessels, and it is mutually advantageous that it should be so, for this very plain rc.v son, that it can be done at the cheapest rate. Britain be ing kept in a •tate of eternal warfare, her shipping is of course subjected to consider- able sea-risk, and a coni..cjuent increase of freight and insurance, which American shipping is exempted troni ; and it follows that the cheapest will be preferred. Just so will commerce always regulsle itself, if left to its own operation ; and the greatest service that governments can ren- Cvr it is "to let it alotie." 1 believe it may be safely affirmed that by bt i))g carrit d in American vessels during tlie war, American prochuM' tull go to the British market from 10 to lii per cent, cheaper, ami iir )nslder' k which Iheapcst If, if left Ian ren- Ithat by liid lir.' 1r| ON TUB BRll'IKH, &C. (319 tish manufactures will be carried to America from S to 10 per cent, cheap- er than in I^ritish vessels. This is, of course, a great savinf; to t!ie in- habitants of both countries; and I wish to state this explicitly, becauso that class of men in Britain who call themselves *' the shipping interest" have made a terrible yelping and noise about it : Rut w' y, in the uautie of common sense, should their interest, or the interest of any particular class, be set up in opposition to the interest of a nation? From this short review it is evident tiiat tiie trade between tho two countries has been mutually advantageous. To the inhabitants ofA- merica it is useful and convenient; to those of Britain it is essentially necessary : it cannot be the wish of t:ither peo[>le to stop it — reason, and common sense, and self-interest forbid it. Whence tiien does thii interruption arise? [^Ilcir a number of the rensi»ts iv/uch hai>e bern -iS' signed ai-e noticed ; and it is tlien stated .-] The true cause is to be found in the hostility ol" the court of Britain. Tliey have never forgivcii A- merica for asserting her independence. They have considered the A- n.^'icans as a divided people; anil they have thought that by persever- ing in a course of steady hostility, the country would fall an easy prey. [After a number of speculations on th^> probable changes that mi;/ c take place, notice is taken of the dawn of hope lield out by the proba- bility of a regency and whig ministry being appointed in Britain. Tho probable steps they would pursue {^r*^ glanced at, and t'"'* consequences to America are summed up thus :] Our trade would flourish — our good will towards ea«/.i other, and towards our British brethren would i»'- crease — party distinctions would be done away — political names would be no longer applied as terms of reproach — we would be all federalists— - we woula be all republicans. If ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS TO A>IER1CA. Thcfullomnfr extracts from a letter •writtenbt/ Clements Burleigh, E/Kj. ■who resided for ^0 years in the United States of North America, ivill be fotinU useful to such persons as mean to emigrate to that coun- try.— <' I will now proceed to give some instructions to my own country- tiicn, who may hereafter emigrate to the United States of America. I shall first take up the poor mechanic and day labourer, next the farmer who may go there v.ith money to purchase land, and next the merchant. <' 1 will take the liberty, as an introduction, to point out some stum- Ming blocks that have been in the way of many emigrants to this coun- try. ^^'e conceive the vessel coming to anchor, and the passengers preparing for going ashore. On setting their feet on land, they look ubout them, see fine houses, gardens, and orchards, the streets crowd-> cd with well'dressed people, every one pursuing his own business. — Well, the question now is, where shall 1 go? I meet a person passing, and address myself to him, requesting him to inform me, where I can have accommodations for some short time. He will point out a house which he thinks may answer my appearance, &c. I get my goods conveyed to this house. The landlord and his family receive me as a foreigfier, and so long as I have cash will have a watchful eye over mc, and treat me according to what money I spend with them. In the wean time, on the arrjval of an Irish ship, a crowd of poor Irish, who have been in that country for a number of years, are always fond of meeting their countrymen on landing, and of encouraging them to take a share of grog or porter, &c. The feelings of the open-hearted Irish- man &re alive to the invitation, and some days are spent in this way, in the company of men vvho are a disgrace to tlie country they came from, and who are utterly incapnole to procure themselves work, much less the poor emigrant. I warn tfiiigrants, therefore, to be upon their guard. The plan, therefore, which I would recommend, is that upon land- ing, as soon as convenient, they should divest themselves of any heavy luggage, such as chests or boxes ; and in the mean time, if they are deficient of money to carry them to the inland parts of the country, stop some time, and if they can get work apply to it, and use what they earn with economy, and keep clear of all idle company, nnd also be particular in keeping clear of a certain description o4' their own oouiitryBien. When they have acquired as much money as may help to bear th^ir expences, let them put their bundles on board one of the waggons, loaded with merchandize for the Western country. By be- '■ r ADVICE TO EMIGRAMS. 62 1 '•f: ing acUvc and obliging to the carrier on the way, lie will charj;e liitln or nothing on your arrival ut Pittsburg, or Grccnshurg, or any otluT town in the western parts of Penuisylvaiiia. Youthen take yoar pro- perty from aboard of thj wag};i)n, if it suits, and make inq-iiry for labour. The best plan would be to (.'nfMj;!) u year witti som ; ojmlcnt farmer, fur which period of service, you will rucuive 100 dollars, and during that time be found in meat, drink, washing, and lodging. Ihix ^ill be an apprenticeship that will teatli } ou the work of the country, such as cutting timber, splitting fence rails, and other work that is not known in Ireland. Ue temperate and frugal, and attend worship on Sundays with your employer's family. Tins will keep you clear of a nest of vipers, who would be urging you to go to tippling- houses with them, to drink whiskey, and talk about Ireland. At the expiration of the year, if your employer is pleased with your conduct, he will not ba willing to part with you, and wdl enter into engagements Aith you, whic^i is often done in the following way, viz. — He will point out toy.)u a cer- tain number of fields to be cultivated, some to be under wheat, others in rye, Indian corn, oats, &c. ; he will find horses, and farming uten- sds, and furnish boarding, washing, and lodging, during that year, and when the harvest is taken oif the ground, he has tao-thirds lor hia. share, and you have one-third. Your share of wlieat, rye, Indian corn or any other produce of the ground, which you have i'armed i>< this way, you will always meet a ready market for. It is true, you must attend early and late to your work, and do it in a neat, farming- like manner. Pursuing this plan of industry a few years, you may save as much money as will purchase l.'JO acres of land m tlie state of Ohio, or the Indiana territory, or any other part of these new states. It is necessary to guard against imposition in the title, as titloi are very un- cert^^in in some places. When you are now possessed of a farm of land in fee simple, clear of all rents and annuities for ever, the next thing to be done, is to clear t!ie land of the timber, which is done in the following manner : — First of all, the underwood has all to be taken up by the root, with a maddock : this is called grubbing : every sap- ling less than four inches in diameter must be taken out, and piled up in heaps and burned. When this is done, you commence cutting down the timber, the straightest of which, after being cut down, is measured oft' in lengths of 11 feet, so far as the body of the tree will admit, and cut and split into rails of about! inches in diameter, for tlie purpose of enclo- sures. All other timber is cut down and raised up in heaps and burned, or hauled ofl'tf'f ground. You next commence budding your fjnco, by lay- ing three rails horizontally on the ground, with one end resting on the other, in a zigzag manner, forming obtase angles. A good fence re- quires to be at least 7 rails high. When this is done, you may then enter with the plough, and plant your ludian corn, or wheat, or what- ever you moan to phmt in the field. It is now that every stroke yon strike is for your own advantage, as you are lord of this property. A log-house and barn are easily built — your neighbours will come teu mues to help you, as they will expect like favours from you in return. Eachyearyou may at least clear 8 or 10 acres, and in the space of 10 or I'i years, you may take your ease. This is pointing out to you the path that industrious men have pursued, who now live rich and mdependent. — And I am confident, tiuit in America, without the most close ap- plication to labour, and using frugality, land is not attained, by thos« 'it i m n i 1 I 022 ALVICM TO EMlCr.lNTS. who emigrate to that country destitute of fumls. I am convinced al- most to a certainty, that out of 20 emigrants from Irdaad tn tho Uiiit- It'd States, 15 have not been able to procure one foot of hmd , b it this is owing to their own bad nmnagement. — In many instances tiiey are often grossly deceived by false information, relative to that country, painting to them advantages that never existed, and when the poor dis- appointed enii;;rant lands on the American shore, he fiwds his golden views have taken flight. He spends his time in broodiu^i over his mis- fortunes till his money is gone, and then he must wurk or starve; and in the cities, there is always a number of poor emigrants, that will not go into the comitry. The streets are often crowded with the.ij looking for work, so th.it it is very hard to obtain work for a stranger tliat is not known. The last resource is to engage to work upon the turnpike roads. — Here the labourer will get one dollar per day, and nnist find himself meat, drink, washing, and lodgini;. Here he has for compan- ions the i.iost abandoned drunken wretches tliat are in existence, and whose example he must follow, or be he'd in derision by them. The day's work is tasked, and if not accomplished, his wages are jiocked ; this sort of labour, and that of working at furnaces and forf^cs, em- ploys a groat number of Irislimen. I have known many hundreds of them who have wrought in this way for more than 30 vears, who at this moment cannot put a good coat on their back, and now are old, in- tirni, and past labour. " It may be objected by some, that it is dangerous to go to the fron- tier country, on a«count of the Indians, wild beasts, &c. ; this is no more than a scare-crow. Indians in time of peace are perfectly inof- fensive, and every dependence may be placed on them. If you call at one of their huts, you are invited to partake ef what they have — they «;ven will divide with you the last morsel they have, if they were starv- ing themselves, and while you remain with them you are perfectly safe, as every individual of them would lose their li"ves in your defence. This unfortunate portion of the human race has not been treated with that degree of justice and tenderness, which people calling themselves Christians ou^ht to have exercised towards them. Their lands have been forcibly taken from them in many instances without rendering them a compensation, and in their wars with the people of the United States, the most shocking cruelties have been exercised towards them. I myself fought against them in two campaigns, and was witness to scenes, a repetition of which would chill the blood, and be only a mo- nument of disgrace to people of my own colour. *' Being in tiie neighbourhood of the Indians duringthe time of peace, need not alarm the emigrant, as the Indian will not be as dangerous to him, as idle vagabonds that roam the woods and hunt. He has more to dread from these people of his own colour, than from tlie Indians. " I have now given my advice to the poi > single man — I shall offer some remarks to the poor man who has a family, and wishes to establish himself in the country. First, on landing, make no stay in the sea-port but as soon as circumstances will permit, (as 1 hinied before,) sell ofl' every thing that you can possibly spare, and by attending the horse- market, you uiuy purchase a low priced horse, winch you may convey your eftccts on ; and if you have more than it is convenient for him to carry, you will always find farmer's waggoi s going back into the coun- try, that will cany it for you. When you arrive iu the wcitcra country, l:- ADTICE TO EMIOnANTS. 623 your best way to act, would be to apply to some wcaltliy man, who owns large quantities of land, and enter into ati cngap;cnient with liini, on a lease of improvements — he will give land seven years on tlie fol- lowing terms : — that is, you arc obliged to clear 50 acres of tillable land, and ten jicri-s of meadow, build a log-house and barn, and all you make off the land is your own. I have known many, who at the ex- piration of the term had decL'ntly maintiiined their ihinilics, and Inul put up seven or ciL;ht hundred dollars), arising from the sale of grain and cattle, and were able to move further back and purcliase land, as I have before mentioned ; and now, likely, your littlo family is grown up, and able to render you a great assistance, clearing your hmd, and en- abling you to be comfortable in the evening of life. " My advice to mechanics is, to j ush back, and take residence in some of the inland towns; and as new counties are every year *livid- ing oil', and towns pitched upon to be the seat of justice for these couiities, work for all kinds of mechanics is plenty, and monry suHi- cicnt may soon be earned, to purchase a lot in one of tlKse town^, where y(iu may, in a short time, be enabled to build a house on yoiu* own property, and have no rent to pay. In the^e towns you will have an opportunity of educating your cliildren, and putting them to tradts at a proper time. 13ut 1 am sorry to say, most oi' thu tradesmen would suffer cold and hunger, even death itself, rather than go from New York or Philadelphia, into the country. There is a number of young men who leave Ireland and go to Ameri- ca, intending to be clerks or merchants. Of all classes of people, I can give these the least encouragement. We have ten people of this description, where we cannot get employment for one, particularly at tiiistime, when all kinds of trade in the United States are at so low an ebb. " I will now take notice of the man who emigrates to America, and has money with him, and means to become a farme •. First, it is neces- sary to mention the price of land. East of the mountains, good land will not be bought under from 80 to 120 dollars per acre, wherci therir are good improvements — other lands may rate from 5 dollars to a highc.' amount, according to the quality of the lanel, and the impro^'ement* made thereon. Land at a lower rate than this, is imt an obj;.'ct of pur- chase, as the soil is so thin and poor, that a living cannot be made on it, without ntanuring every other year with dung or plaster of Paris. West of the mountains, in all the old settlements, land may I)e bought from SO dollars per acre to two dollars. In the state of Ohio, and other T)t'w countries, vt^ry good land may be bought at two dollars per acre, but this land is in a state of nature, and tar distant from any inhabi- tait t!ie l.ind in the Eastern States is generally poor thin toil ; whereas, Upper Canaiiu is more fertile, and land obtainf.'d for little or iioiliin^, ai d the fleets and army of the mother country able to pro- tict liietn both at home and abr(»ad, with full liberty of the fisheries on the Hanks of Newfoundland, which we enjoyed a right or privilege to |)rovi, us to tile late war, but is not granted to us now. \V e have also been much tui iciiled in the East India trade, by the late peace with (ireat 1 rituin. Another reason that may be assigned for people of thu I'nited States moving into Canada, is that taxes are very light in Canada, V hcreas at present in the United States taxation is heavy. Add to this the violent contention and party spirit that prevails, which is always disgusting and disagreeaUlo to sober, industrious, well-disposed citizens, and ever has the tendency to weaken the fqrcc of the country. Had the Anitricuns been fully united in sentiment, as to the propriety of the last war, Canada would have been taken the first campaign. Although the Canadians uic very loyal, and fought with unexampled courage, yet they would have been overwhelmed with numbers. Since the peace, the emigration to Canada has been very great, and that country is set- tling very fast. There has also been an emigration from the Southern states into the Spunish province of East Florida, wrterc they have settle''' HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 623 liiemsclves, and taken the oatli ot'allcgiiincc to the Spanish (lovcrnmcnt. '• It is to be hopcii tliat those feuds atid animosities that have liithcrto existed will now be shortly done away, and tliat the unthinking class of people who had urged on the war, have now suffered a disnnpointmnnt, and been the means oriouding the country with a national debt, and by no means have bettered their own circumstances, will be convinced of their error. " The Americana, in general, are a brave and generous people, well informed, hospitable, and kind ; it would be, therefore, the duty of emi- grants when settled in tliat country, not to be the first to lend a hand ir» «listurbing the peace of the country — it is the height of ingratitude, an they oi^ht to consider that tliev have been received, and granted the rights of citizenship ; it is their duty, therefore, to lend a hand to no- thing that niny be injurious to their adopted country. 1 hope Irish emi- grants when they arrive will cop^ after some of the rules and instruc- tions I have pointed out, which, it it should turn out to their advantage, as I hope it may, would truly be a great happiness and gratification to their countryman and friend, Clements BunLEicii." HINTS TO EMIGRANTS FROM EUROPE, il ho intend to viake a permanent residence in the United States of Ame- rica ; puintinfr out the most advfmtafreous places of settlement, and giv- ing dircctiunsjbr the hest means o/'piescrving health, 1 HAT hospitality which, as Mr. Jefferson says, the savages of the wil- derness extended to the first settlers arriving in this land, cannot be de- nied by afree, civilized, and Christian people, to brethren emigrating from the countries of their common fathers ; and the exercise of it is pe- culiarly agreeable to us, who have (some of us) been induced, by a si- milarity of fate and fortunes with your own, to quit the lands of our na- tivity, and seek freedom and happiness in America. That hospitality which the wild Arab never violates, and which the American Indian si» often exercises to strangers ; that sacred virtue is dear to our hearts, which we open to address you in the frankness of friendship and since- rity of truth. We bid you welcome to a land ot freedom ; we applaud your resolution ; wc commend your judgment in asserting the right of expatriation; a right acknowledged and practised by people of all na- tions, from the earliest ages to the present time; a fight indispensable to liberty and happiness, and which ought never to be surrendered. The free states once established in Asia recogniied it; Gicece adopted. it. Emigration Ironi thence was uncontrouled; and naturalization, which puts the emigrant, civilly, on a level with the . ative, was there a thing of course. The Homans avowed and vindicated the right in all its lati- tude; and this memorable declaration composed part of their code ■: ** Every man has a ri^ii^lit to choose the slate to which he will belong." It is a law of nature, that we may go whither we list to promote our happiness. It is thus, indeed, that the arts, scietices, laws, and civiliza- lion itself, have journeved, ■.vith colonies, from one region to auothcr, 79 <«' i ', (I I t IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ 1.0 I.I m m 12.2 2.0 lU lU U£ I USi 1 1.25 III U 1^ ^ 6" ► 0h w 4>' /;>^/ y^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation ^^i^ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 872-4503 '^ G26 HINTS TO RMIGRAKTt from Abla and Egypt to Europe, and from Europe to America. In making this cuuiitry your home, your clioice does you honour; and we doubt not but your conduct will be equally correct, judicious, and ho- nourable. That the laws and institutions of America may be from this moment the objects of your constant respect, wc will quote what an J'iuropean philosopher has said of America as compared, politically, with Europe! " Whikt almost all the nations of Europe," says the Abb6 de Mably, " are ignorant of the conitituent principles of society, a^^d regard the people as beasts of a farm, cultivated for the benefit of the owner, we are astonished, we are edified, that your thirteen republics should know, at once, the dignity of man, and should have drawn from the nources of the wisest philosophy the principles by which they ar^ dispos- ed to be governed.*' Even in your state of probation here, as aliens, you will soon perceive that the laws (and ours is a governiiient of laws) are made by the will of the people through agents called representatives. The will of a ma- jority passes for, and requires the consent of all. Entire acquiescence in the decisions of the majority is the vital principle of republics, from which there is no legitimate appeal ; for resistance to those decisions is an appeal to force, the vital pruieiplc and immediate parent of despotism. Jt is a fundamental truth in nature, and for those not held in servitude, it is law in America, that men are born equal, and endowed with una* lienable rights, of which they can neither divest themselves, nor be de* prived by others. Slaves may be ruled by the will of one, or a few ; but freemen are governed only by the general will. Strangeisas you are, you may derive benefit from the counsel and {guidance of friends. If one who has gone the road you are about to travel, by only showing you hoM it winds beyond the next hill, does you an act of civility, how much more important would be some information that must influence your welfare and future fortune? And when you reflect that circumstances apparently trivial may make the one or mar the other, you will not disregard a communication which relates to the business of life. AU that a first conversation with an emigrant can properly embracQi- will fall under three heads: I. What relates to his personal safety in a new climate; II. H:s interests as a probationary resident ; and III. Ilis future rightt and duties as a member of a free state. Under the first will be comprised some directions for your mode of living, and the pretiervation of your health. The second would de* mand some description of this extensive country, which may direct your choice and industry. Under the third should be contained a Lrief ab> street of such civil or political matters as behoves you to understand. I. Emigrants from Europe usually arrive here during summer, and, every thing considered, it is best they should ; for in the middle and eastern states the winter is long, fuel very dear, and ctr-ployment compa- ratively scarce at that season. In wititci they will expend more and cam ie&s. But if arriving at this time bear uior^' upon their pocket, the heats of the summer are undoubtedly more trying to their health. In the middle states, namely. New York, New Jcr.^ey, Pennsylvania, and Maryland, a northern European usually finds the climate intensely hot irom about the tuiddle of June until toward?- the first ol'October. The theimooicter frequently ranges ft urn Sf to 90, uad sometiiucs above it niNTS TO EVItPANTSi C27 in the middle part of the day ; this to a stranger who works in the open air, exposed to the burnint; sun, is certainly dangerous, and re* quires some precautions on his part. First of all, he should regulate his diet, and be temperate in ths quantity of his food. The American lubourer or working tnec'ianir, who I'.as a better and more plentiful table than any ot!ier im\n in the world of ills class is, for the most part a small eater, and we rccoin- nicnd to you his example. The Europciin of tli:; suine condition, >v!io receives meat or fish, and coffee, at breakfast, meat at dinner, aiul meat or fish, and tea, at supper, an abundance of animal food to wlticU he was unaccustomed, insen&ibly falls i;itoa 8tn^e of toogre.it repletion, which exposes him to the worst kind of fever during the heats of snni- mcr and autumn. He should, therefore, be quite as abstemious in the quantity of food, as of strong drink ; and, in addition to this nie« thod of preventing sickness, he should take a dose of active pliysic, every now and then, especially in the hotter months of July and Ai- gust. By this prudent course an ardent climate will have no terror*, and after some residence here he may preserve Iiis health by regiuicu and exercise alone. The labourer or mechanic should put off his ordinary clothes, and wear next his skin a loose flannel shirt, while he works ; it should be taken off again when he has done. The stranger as well as native must be particuliarly careful not to drink cold water after being heated by exposure to the sun or exercise. Sudden and severe pain at the stomach, and even death, are tW quent- ly the consequences of such imprudence. The humane Society of this city has published the following directions to be observed in such cases ; 1st. Avoid drinking water while the body is heated, or during pro- fuse perspiration. 2d. Wash the hands and face with cold water before drinkinrr. 3d. If these precautions have been neglected, and cramps or con- vulsions have been induced, let a tea-spoonful of laudanum he given immediately in a cup of spirits and water, and repeat tiic dose in half an hour, if necessary. ^th. At the same time apply hot fomentations of spirits and wutcr to the stomach and bowels, and to the lower extremities, cuvering the body witli a blanket, or immerse the body in a warm bath, if it can be immediately obtained. .'ith. Inject into the bowels a pint of warm spirits and water, mixed in the proportion of one part oi the former to two of the latter. II. Do you ask by this time, with a view to the ordinary business of life, What is America? What sort of people may expect to succeed in it? The immortal Franklin has answered these (juestions. " America is the land of labour." But it is, emphatically, the best country on earth for those who will labour. By industry tliey can ejrn more wa^os here than elsewhere in the world. Our governments are frugal, they demand few taxes ; so that the earnings of the poor man are left to enrich himself; they are nearly all his own. Idlers are out of their element here, and the bein^ who is techni- cally called a man of rank in Europe, is despicable m America, lla must become an useful member of society, or he will find no society : he will be shunned by all decent people. Franklin, whose sarxe counsel Pi 628 HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. is the beet that can be given or observed, has said, that it is not QiU visiible for a person to come hither " who has no other quality to re- coinnuMid him but his birtli. In Europe, indeed, it may have its value, bat it is a commodity wliich cannot be carried to a worse market than that of America, where people do not inquire concerning a stranger, What is he? but, What can he do : If he has any useful art, he is wel- come, and if he exercises it, and behaves well, ha will be respected by all that know him. The husbandman is in honour here, and so ii the mechanic, because their employments are useful." And the peo- ple," he adds, " have a saying, that ' God Almighty is himself a me- chanic, the greatest in the universe.' " Franklin farther illustrates the generality of industrious habits by tlie Negro's observation, that ' the white man makes the blackman work, the horses work, the oxen work, and every thing work except the hog, which alone walks about, goes to sleep when he pleases, and lives like a gcnileman.' ♦* The only encouragement we hold out to strangers are a good cli- mate, fertile soil, wholesome air and water, plenty of provisions, good pay for labour, kind neighbours, good laws, a free government, and a hearty welcome. T*ie rest depends on a man's own industry and virtue." It would be very prudent for new comers, especially labourers or farmers, to go into the country without delay, as they will save both njoney and time by it, and avoid several inconveniencies of a seaport town. By spending some time with an American fttrmer, in any capa- city, they will learn the method of tillage, or working a plantation, peculiar to this country. No time can be more usefully employed than a year in this manner. In that space, any smart, stout man can learn how woodland may be cleared, how cleared land is managed ; he vi'iW acquire some knowledge of crops and their succession, of usages aind customs that ouglit to be known, and perhaps save something into the bargain. Many European emigrants who brought money with them have heretofore taken this wise course, and found it greatly to their ad- vantage ; for, at the end of the year, they knew what to do with it. Tiiey had learned the value of lands in old settlements and near th(* frontiers, the price of labour, cattle, and grain, and were ready to be- gin the world with ardour and confidence. Multitudes of poor people, trom Ireland, Scotland, and Germany, have, by these means, together with industry and frugality, become wealthy farmers, or, as they arc called in Europe, estated men, who, in their own countries, where all the lands are fully occupied, and the wages of labour low, could never have emerged from the condition wherein they were born. In the west of Pennsylvania, there is a custom which the farmers there call cropping, and which is as beneficial to the owner as to the tiller of the ground, in the present state of this country. The cropper performs the labour of the plantation, as spring and fall ploughings, sowing, harrowing, or other work, and receives a certain share of the crop, as agreed on, for his pains. But he must be an expert farmer be- fore he can undertake, or be intrusted with, the working of the farm. None but a poor man undertakes it, and that only until he can save money to buy land of his own. It is invariably the practice of the American, and well suited to hi* love of independence, to purchase a piece of land as soon as he can, and tu cultivate his own farm, rather than hve at wages. It is equally n\ the power of an emigrant to do the same, after a lew years of labour \ HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. C'lO tnd econorjiy. From that moment he secures all the means oF happi- ness. He lias a sutficiency of fortune, without heinj^ exempt iVom mo- derate labour ; he feels the comfort of indepentlence, aiul h\s no fi-ar of poverty in hi.s old age. He is invested with the poWfCrs a.s wi;ll as the rights of a ficcman, and may in all casis, without, let or iipprc- hcnsion, exercise them according,' to his judsjinont. He can aH\,rd ta bis children a good education, ami knows thiit he has tlit-roby provided for their wants. Prospects open to them fur brighter than were iiis o.v d, and in seeing all this he is surely blest. Industrious men need never luck employment in America Labour- ers, carpenters, masons, bricklayers, stonecutters, blackMnitlis, turn. ers, weavers, farmers, curriers, tailors, and shoemakers, and t!j(! use- ful mechanics generally, are always sure of work and wiiges. Stone- cutters now receive, in this city, (New York,) two dollars n d.iy, equal to nine shillings sterling; carpenters, one dollar and eigl:ty« «even and a half cent!" ; bricklayers, two dollars ; labourers, from one dollar to one and a (juarter; others in proportion. At this tinu?, (July, 181G,) house-carpenters, bricklayers, masons, and stonecutters, are paid three dollars per day in Petersburg!!, Virginia. The town wa« totally consumed by fire about a year since, but it is now rising from its ashes in more elegance than ever. Mechanics will iind ample eni])loy- ment there for perhaps two years to come. Artisans receive better pay in America th'an in Europe, and can live with less exertion, and more camfort ; because they put an additional price on their work, equal to tiie cost of i'reight ami commission charg- ed by the merchant on importations. But there are not many of tht2 Jaborious classes whom we would advise to reside or even loiter in great towns, because as much will bu spent during a long winter as can be made through a toilsome summer, so that a man may be kept a moneyless orudge for life. But this is not perhaps the worst ; he in tempted to become a tippler, by the cheapness and plenty of liquors, and then his prospects are blasted for ever. In tew countries is drunken • ness more despised than in this. The drunkard is viewed as a person socially dead, shut out from decent intercourse, shunned, despised, or abhorred. The pernicious habit is to be guarded against as scrupulouti- ly for political as moral considerations. Civil liberty every where rests on sel/' respect, while degradation or voluntary debasement is one of the causes of despotism. These remarks are general ; we have no rea- son to suppose that one people are more ignorant than another of monil duty or propriety. It deserves notice that two sister slates have made laws vesting the estate of an habitual drunkard in trustees ; and it has been proposed to deprive such persons of suffrage and the privilege of giving evidence in courts of justice. An ancient lawgiver was even more severe ; he affixed a double penalty to crimes committed in a stats of intoxication. Jb'uch have been the methods of legislators to preserve the dignity of man. Men of science, who can apply their knowledge to useful and prar- •tical purposes, may be very advantageously settled ; but mere literary scholars, who have no profession, or only one which they cannot profit- ably practise in this country, do not meet with much encouragement ; in truth, with little or none, unless they are willing to devote them- ijclves to the education of youth. The demand for persons who will do this Is obviously increasing : and although many excellent preccp" 630 niNTS TO 1MI0RANT3. tors are every where to be found among the native Americans, there is itill considerable room for competition on the part of well qualifiud fo. reigners. In the seminaries for classical education, it is very com- mon to find the preceptors natives of Ireland, and the same may be said of the mathematical schools. In the rvouthcrn states, where a thin population is spread over an extensive country, good schools are comparatively few ; but there arc rich planters in those districts, in Hrhoso families foreigners of genteel address and good knowledge of the classics, English, and arithmetic, will Bnd employment, and a good sa- lary, as private tutors. It does not detract from a man's personal re- spectability to have been thus employed. The Americans are too wise to treat that condition as mean, which is essential to the honour and prosperity of the nation, and which supposes in its professor natural talents and acquired knowledge. It is not unusual, in this country, to see young men who taught school until they had accumulated some property, and who then turn to the professions of law, physic, or di* vinity, or else become farmers or merchants. The practice and feel- ings of the Americans, in this particular, may be judged from the fact, that many gentlemen, who begin their career as schoolmasters, pass through all the grudatfons of state honours, are appointed to foreign embassies, promoted to the head of departments of the federal govern- ment, and have as good prospects as others of attaining the Presiden- cy. Several instances of this nature might be quoted from this unpre- judiced people. In w hat part of this extensive country may an emigrant from the northern or western parts of Europe most advantageously settle ? If he be undecided until his arrival, his choice will be agreeably perplex- ed or suspended by the different invitations offered by various sections of this empire. It covers an area between the 31st and -Kith deerees of north latitude, and from the Atlantic ocean to the westward indefinite- ly. In time our settlements will reach the borders of the PaciBc. The productions of the soil are as various as the climate. The middle states produce grain of all kinds; Maryland and Virginia afford wheat and tobacco; North Carolina, naval stores ; and South Carolina and Geor- gia, rice, cotton, indigo, and tobacco : to these products, Louisiana and Slississippi add sugar and indigo, which are now cultivated in Georgia likewise. Tennessee, Kentucky, Indiana and Ohio are productive of the principal part of the foregoing staples, together with hemp, coal, and such plants as are found in the northern and middle states, to the eastward of the Allecany mountains. Over this great tract, tie finest fruits grow in perfection ; grain of every sort is in plenty ; and «• he who puts a seed into the earth is recompensed, perhaps, by receiving forty out of it." We are of opinion that those parts of the United States between the 35tli and 43d, or 37th and 4<2d degrees of north latitude, will be found most congenial to the constitutions of Europe^ ans. New- York, (principally) Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, Ken- tucky, Ohio, Indiana, the Illinois and Missouri territories, are spread within these parallels. As the European is more patient of cold than of heat, he will be apt to prefer the middle and western, or north- western states to the southern^ There he will form connexions with inhabitants whose manners most resemble his own. In some one of them we would advise him, after a proper examination, to pitch his tent, and fix his residence. f>. HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 63 i Farther to the south, wFiere negro slaves arc the only, or principal labourers, some white men think it disreputable to follow the plough. Far be it from us to cast censure on our southern neighbours ; yet, in choosing a settlement, we would have emigrants take slavery, with all other circumstances, into their consideration. It is the opinion of some judicious men, that though persons newly arrived ought to go without loss of time into the country, yet it would not be prudent for them to retire all at once to the rcinote parts of the west ; that they ought to stop nearer the sea-board, and learn a lit* tic of the mode of doing business. Perhaps tliis, in some instances, may be adviseablc ; but we think that young men, whose habits are not fixed, tannot post too speedily to the line regions beyond the Alle* gany. The labourer, however, will find great difFerence between thctn and Europe in every thing. The man who was accustomed to the spade, must now use the axe ; he who used to dij^ ditcht8, will learn tu maul rails and make fences. These are extremes that must be met ; and the sooner, perhaps, the better. We omit annexing to these directions a table of roads ; as almanacs are every where to be had for a trifle, an«l they contain accurate lists, with the principal stages from east to west ;'* there arc also people aU ways wilhng to direct the stranger on his path. If a European has previously resolved to go to tlie western country, near tlie Allegany or Ohio rivers, he will have saved much expense and travel by landing at Raltimore ; from thence to Pittsburg, at the head of the Ohio, is about 200 miles direct; perhaps not more than 210 by the course of the road. A few days' journey will bring him along a Hne turnpike from Baltimore, nearly to Cumberland, in Allegany county, (Md.) from whence the public road, begun by the United States, crosses the mountains, and is to touch the Ohio at Wheeling. A smart fellow, in a little time, will reach Union, in Fayette county, Penn- sylvania. Here is a flourishing county adjoining Green, Washington, and Westmoreland, in any one of which may be fcund almost every thing that is desirable, and a population hospitable and intelligent. From Union to Pittsburg is but a day's journey. There one may as- cend the Allegany river to the upper countries ; or he may follow the current, and descend the Ohio to the state of that name, cross it to Indiana, or continue his voyage to Kentucky. lie may proceed to the Mississippi river, and go up it to St. Louis, in the Missouri Territory, or he may proceed a little farther up, and ascend the Illinois river, in the Illinois Territory. Such are the facilities of going by water from Pittsburg to various parts of the west ; 'and those states and territories named are among the most fertile in America. From Philadelphia to Pittsburg is about 300 miles, chiefly through a fine, plentiful, and well-cultivated country. A gentleman in Penn- sylvania, of high standing and information, writes to a member of this society : " Pennsylvania, after all, is, perhaps, the best field for Irish capacity and habits to act in, with i>rospecls for a family, or for in- ilivid'ial reward. Lands of the finest quality ntay be had in this state for bartly settling and remaining five years ; the advantage derived from the emigrant, being the encouragement of others to settle and purchase." • Melith's " American Traveller," containing neat lists «f roads and much sUti»- t-«al «nd tupDgrupIiical iafo:-ni:itiun, is a gogd fodtet conipaaioa for the stranger. > i| i) \;mt m mi ;:j^j HINTS TO F, MIGRANTS. Thnt h, l>y '^'i' '^^'s of Pennsylvania, warrantci-s must make an actual uttlcmcnl on tlio lamis tlu'y claim to hoUl by dofds from the land-office. Ilcnrc, trusty pcrsotis obtain a tlcod for a part, on condition of clear- in;; nccrtnin quantity, and building u house and residing there. In our state, (of New Ymk,) the ad van taj^es are great, whether we rcgird soil or situation, or roads, lakes, and rivers. Few, if any states in the Union, have finer land than the great western district of New York. It has risen exceedingly in a few years, and the price will be much inrrcased ns socm as the intended canal from hikes Erie and Champlaiii to the Hudson rivrr, shall be completed. These most use. fit and magnificent works will probably be begun next sunmur, and af- ford, for several years to come, to many tliousands of industrious poor men an oppertututy of enriching themselves. If" prudent, they may realize th.ir c \rni.i;;s on the spot, and become proprietors, in fee, of landed estates in thj beauiiful country they shall havo so greatly im- proved. From no otlir-r rity on the Atlantic, can a person sooner reach the country than by minus nf tlie Hudson, and the roa^ls that branch from the towns on eit!;er of its banks Lands of good quality u)ay still be pur- chased, even in t!io midhnd i)arts of New York, at a reasonable rate. As every eiuigrimt dof-s not mean to turn farmer, and our wish is to furnish useful l.ii.ts to various classes, we will here, at tlie risk of repe- tition, state tlic ideas of a genthinau of much experience, respectability, ani! intelligence, concerning t!ie pur.-iuits of different persons. Those who have acquired useful trades will, in general, lind little dif- ficulty, either in our l;u-ge cltits. or the towns and villages all over the country There are vacancies far a large portion of thena. Clerks, shupkeep'.irs, or attendants in stores, are seldom wanted ; their occu'f'ation is an uncertain one ; it requires some time, too, for such per- FOTis to acquire the mode of doing business with the same expertness as natives or long residents. In most cases a sort of apprenticeship is to be Kerved; and it'would be well tor persons newly arrived to engage for ► ome months at low»wages, with a view to procure the necessary experi- rnre. Six mouths or a y^ar spent in this manner, an I for this purpose, will tit a man for making better use of his future years; andhe will have no occasion to repent his pains : we would press this on your consideration. Tiicsame observations nrc applicable, but in a less degree, to persons who mean to apply themselves to husbandry. Some local peculiarities must be learned even by them ; th(> neglect of which would be so much the more uiexcusable, us the knowledge may be shortly and easily acquired. Those who have money, and Intend to settle here in any line of busi- ness, would do well to vest their funds in some public stock, or deposite them in a bank, until they have acquired such a knowledge of the coun- try, the modes of life and business, as shall enable them to launch into trade, conmiejce, or manufactures, with safety. ^To loan money secure- ly, needs great care. It has been often seen that persons arriving in A- n'erica with some property, lose it before they prosper in the world. The reason of which is tlmt, in the first place, they begin some kind of business without kr.owing how to conduct it ; and, in the next, that, with less skill, they are less frugal and industrious than their competitors. It is equally observable, that persons who arrive here with little to de» HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. G33 Kend on besides their personal exertions, become prosperous at last ; 'or y the time tliey have earned some money in the employ of others, they will have learned there, likewise, how to secure and improve it. Tlie delay here recommended is all important and necessiirj'. No- thing can be more ruinous to strangers in this country than headlong haste in those plans and arrangements on which their future fortune en- tirely depends. Many a fatal shipwreck has been uec.tNioned by preci- pitation ; and many are they who can from sad experience bear witness to this truth. Knowledge of modes and methods must be ac(|aired be- fore we think of hazarding, or dream of acquiring money. A man igno- rant of the use of the sword might as well fight a fencing master with that weapon, as an unexperienced stranger enter the lists in businesii with these who are adepts in their trade. But in giving admonition, l>;t Its not be thought to present discouragements ; a little pains and ob- servation will qualify a man of si^nse to judge, and the example of men here, in this or that occupation, is well worth reg;irdin^. The people of this country are cast in a happy medium, at once liberal and ciii- tious, cool in deciding, and ardent in performing; none exceed them in acutsness and discernment, and their conduct is generally a pattern that may be followed with advantage. III. Before any ottier step towards forming a settlement, the stran- ger should take the proper measures for acquiring citizenship: and the advantages of this are important and obvious, independently of its con- ferring political privileges. Without it you will remain exempted, in- deed, by mild laws, from wrong ; but destitute of some valuable positive rights. The alien, in most of the states, is not entitled to hold any lands, can obtain no office under the state, nor participate in the shipping in- terest of the country. It is ht the emigrant should be distinctly apprized, (for It will con- ciliate his attachment and gratitude to the country of his adoption, ) that no where in the world is a well-conducted foreigner received into the bosom of the state with equal liberality and readiness as in Ame- rica. When on the ith of July, 1776, the Congress unanimously adopt- ed a Declaration of Independence, and delivered their country from the dominion of the king of England, this was one of tl . complaints alleged against him : " he has endeavoured to prevent the ^ovulation of these states ; for that purpose obstructing the laws for nat iralization of fo- reigners." The same liberal feeling has prevailed in the government of the United States, from that memorable day to this, with one excep- tion — during the administration of President Adams. The stranger, however, is certainly exposed to incidents which may lead him to doubt the truth of this assertion. He may light upon an ignorant, a preju- diced, or illiberal wretch, who will manifest an ill will towards him be- bccause he is a foreigner, and perhaps revive British and royalist's taunts in a new form; but these, the scum of a country, are totally insignifi- cant, compared with the mass of the people. The best men in America have always been ready to welcome the valuable emigrant — the stranger of moral and industrious habits. An author, eminent as a statesmsn, a scholar, and philosopher, speaking, in big Discourse to the Philosophical Society of N.ew York, of the advantages which Cicero boasted that Rome had derived from Athens, adds : " We are perhaps more favoured in another point of view. x\ ttica was peopled from E«vpt, but we can boast of our descent from a superior 80 <'l m i m 6r^4 HINTS TO KMIORANTS. stock. I sppak not of families or dynattiei ; I refer to our origin froru those nations where civilization, knnwludgu, ami refinement have erect* ed their empire, und where human nature lias attained its greatest per- fection. Aniiihilute Holland, (ircat Uriiain, Ireland, France, and ucr- niaiiy, and wiiat would become of civilized man i This country, young as it in would bt; ttie f^reat Atlas remaining to support the dignity o('th« world. And pertiups our min^'led descent from various nationn mayhava obi-nign influence upon geniiia. Wu perceive the improrine eiTects of an anulngous state, upon vegetables and inferior animals. The extraordi- nary cliuractem tlie United States have produced may be, in some mea- sure, nHcrtbed to the mixed blood of so many nations lowing in our veins; iind it may be confidently said that the operation of canset, acting whh ir^e»i^tible elfcct, will carry in this country all the improvable fauul- luh i)f human nature tu the highest state of perfection." You will, however, observe that the privilege of citizenship is not granted witliout proper precautions; to secure that, while the worthy ixsM udiiiittcd, tiie unworthy should, if practicable, be ritjected. You will from hence deduce the importance of good moral habits, even to tl>e acquisition of political rights. The steps ta be taken by a foreigner preparatory to, and for the pur- pose of his bring natunilizcd, arc those: Ut. Ill- must, at least five ^ears before he can be admitted a citisea of the L'nited States, report hmiself at the office of one of the courts of record, within the state or territory where he may be ; and in that re- port Kt't forth lii.ort M ill be furnished by the clerk ol the court, who will also give a certificate under the seal of the court, that the repart has been made and iled. This certificate must be carefully kept, fur the purpose of being produced at the time of applicatixa fir admission to citizenshipf. 'Ihis t-tep of reporting one's arrival is indispcnt-nble, and ought to be taken as soon as ueesible, because the five years uf probation begin to be counted only from the date uf the report ; and the time which a tbrcigncr may have previously Bpint in die country cannot be rendered vf any service towards his naturalization. 2d. At least three years before the alien can be naturalized, he must appear before some one of the courts of record, within the state or ter* ritury where he may be, and there declare, on oath, or affirm, that it is in good faith his intentiim tu become a citizen of tlie United States, to renounce, fur ever, all allegiance and fidelity to any sovereign priiice» potentate, state, or sovereignty, whatever; and particularly, by name, to the prince, potentate, state or suvercign, whereof he niuy, at the time, be a citiaen or subject. This oath or afHrmation, which must have been made at least three years before admission to citizenship,, may be niude at any convenient time a(U-r the ropcrt of arrival. Indeed, it is t>omotiHies made on the same day, so as to uave trouble and prevent di:i- iippuiutment from future negligence oi forgetfulness. lor another rea- son, thut will be presently pointed out, ttie sooner ii it> done tite safer and the better. The clerk of the court also ^'ives a certificate thai iMis oath or affirmation has been duly nmile, which, like the former, inufil be carefully kept for the purj)Oac oi" bciue pioJuCcJ at the time ol iip^>i%iu^ for ualuializatijm HINTS TO FMICnANTS. 635 8 At tills period tlie apnlicnnt. after prrxlucing hoth tliosc cortlfi- 0«t('«, must (icclan? on nath, or airirnnUon, bt'torosum;' one of the i.-^rne courts, thnt ho will support the f«institution of the I'nitod Stnto^. Me must also satihfy the court, (whicli ciuinot bo done l)v llie apj)!icant himsv^lf, and is usuiilly done hy th«; aHuhvitH of two n.'spect ib!*' (.iti- BtiUf, who know and can tchtify to th(! facts,) thuf he has rotiJod with- in the Uniti'd States five year* at least, and within tlic sttte or f .'rri- tory wlicrt! ho applies to be achnilti'd, ut Icnnt ono year, ami thn:, ddi infjT such time, lie has behrtvcd as a man of irood moral clmracter, attached to the principles of the constitution of thi? T'nlti'd State's, and weil disposed to the good order and hnppines>< of thu same. The clerk will tlureupon make out a certificate of naturalization, under the seal of the court, which should be carefully kept, and ready to be pro- duced whenever it niny be reipiisite. The liberality of congress has extended the benefits of this ac'm!*- sionto citizenship, beyond those win perform these req nisi lef , tor the children of u person no natiirali/.-d, beiny under agr, and dweli- inp in the ITn ted States at the time of their parrni's naturalization, al- so beeome citizens. And, Htill further, if any alien who shall have re- gularly reported himself, and mailc oath or aifirmation declaratory of his intentions, (which, as we liuve seen, must precede his own admis- sion by three years,) should unfortunately die before he was actually naturalizofl, his widow and children would theneeforlh be coittiderod as citizens of the United States, and be entitled to all rights and privileges M such, unon taking the oaths prescribed by law. This provision, therefore, iurnishes a very strong inducement for losing no time in takinjf the oath declaratory of the party'ii intentiou. {Ho. 1 ) fieporl gf nn Alien, mnde of himself to the Clerk of the Suprtme Court of Judicature, fi>r the State of Nevi' York, in the Citi/ (>/ New York, the dny of one thousand eight hundred atid Name. Place uf Age. Uirlli. Naticn. Allegianco Country from whf'ice he emigrates. Place of his iu tended settlement. 1 i 1 i _ I certify tl\e forcgaing to be » true copy of the original Ilejport and Registry re- maining in my office, in Uie City of New- York, as Clerk of the supreme Court of the State of New- York. In testimony whereof the Seal of tlie said Court is hereto affixed, thia day of one tlioiisaml eight hundred and «nd in tbt Yc«r of the indepoif dcnce of the iJsdfi SatM, M i'''l| (j;j6 HINTS TO FMir.RANTS. ( No. '2.) in til* \tfur of our Lord I lirrrtiy ceri'ify, ihnt on tliix nrir llii)UH.itiil «>i;4lil liunilnvl and 111' tlu- ciiy nf NVt«->.iii-, ii|nu'«rr(l in ilic ('mir» of Common 1*U'0», ralli.l tlic Mwy.nA Coiiri, oftlir rity of NVw-York, iinil tlun ind t'.'erc took nnd MiliMrili.>'l an oaiIi uI hii intention to bt'conio ■ tiliii'n of thr I'niitMl >St«iti<«. and to r«-h«iiiuv lor evrr all nllc;^i«m« and Hdoliiy tu any foreign priiiif, paloii> t«te, sti^to, or »«>vcrtignty whatt-vcr. and pArticuUrly l4» in conformity Ui uit ai.1 uf iltc CongreM of the United StAtr\ in that cane maJo and pruTided. ricrk. (No. %) Onth of AUrifiutttr. ri»y nnd Ci only of Now-^nk, si. 1, do mnVt oatli, (sed on that sidi- ject." And the said having thereupon product^ to the (ourt such v\\- ileiice, and muiK' such dwclaration and renunciiition as is by the said actn rcquirivJ , thereupon it wus considered by tlic siiid court, that the said he admiiied, and he was accordingly admittey thciii are regulated the internal local relatiun« of citi/onn in «acii state ; they constitute tho main guurdn of our freedom, Tiic ^;cn rnl govrrnmunt (wliouc conBtitution wu« formed bv delc^uten from twi-lvo vtates, assembled in Convention at Pliiludulpliiu, in 17>7) bus tlio sole direction of our foreign allUirH, and tlio mutual relations of tlij ktatCM. 'I'lie (.government of the United States is admin'stured by a I'rcnident and Vice-president, elected for four years ; by a senate, of two mem?>ers from each ktate, elected for six yearn ; by a hou^e of representatives, chosen for two years, by the pc'opic ; um! by judges, Ac. appointed according to law. The senators are elected by tlio HtatCH, and this feature of the Constitution is deeni'jd Federal; tlio representatives are elected by the people, and heru the Constitution is more particularly national. In each of the states there is a governor and two leiiislativu branclio!) chosen by the people, or their representatives, acconliiig to «!.ic!i con. stitution. The governor, in each statu is, by virtue of Iiis otHcc, com* iiiunder in chief of the militia of the same. When tlie Fi'derul Constitution was formed, it was laid beftire titc fcople, who. in each state, chose a convention to adopt or reject it. t was debated, in every convention, with uncommon ardour ; and, fiDully, adopted in 1788. The speeches made on tlioste occasions shed (itrearas of light on the science of government, and its just division of of powers ; neither foreigners nor natives can reail them too carefully. During the discussion of the Federal Constitution, advocates of some of its most federative provisions were called I'ederalists ; their oppo- nents anti-Federalist. Hut when it was adopted, it became the law to all, and was in all its parts sincerely agreed to by all ; those opposite terms, therefore, ceased to be properly applicable any longer. Yet a political party seized hold of the epithet, which was merely occa- sional, and have made it pcrpctuil. They are called Federalists to this day, without any reference to the origin of the terra ; the oppo- site party are known as Republicans or Democrates, terms significant of their attachment to popular government. Th" Federal party, ua the contrary, or to speak more correctly, many of their leaders, are thought to have a leaning towards aristocracy. We ought never to be the slaves or dupes of mere names ; and it will become the duty of a good citizen to act with one |)arty or the other, as far as he thinks its means more honourable, and its object's more just. When the Federal party were in power, a law was passed author- izing the President of the United States to send friendly aliens out of the country, on mere suspicion, without the intervention of judge or jury ! This is remembered ai the Alien Act. Moreover, citizenship could not be then acquired without a previous residence of fourteen years. On the 4th of March, ISOl, a Democratic administration came into power ; President Jefferson having been chosen instead of Mr. Adams. The acts of the goverment soon manifested a more liberal spirit. The following passage, from Mr. Jefferson's message to Congress, Decem- ber 8th, 1801, had its iiduence on, or harmonized with, the general opinion as to the impolicy (to ^ay tlie least) of the inhospitable acts which we havoju'it nieiuioued: nt m 63$ niKTS TO BMICIUMT9f " I cannot omit recommending a revisal of jthe l^wi on the subject of naturalization. Considering the prdinarary chances of human life, A denial of citizenship, under a rjesidence of fourteen years, is a denial to a great proportion of tlipse who ask it, and controuls a oolicy pusued fruai tl)eir.fir»^ settlement, by many of the states, an4 stil; believed of consequence to their prosperity, &c. &c. The constitution, indeed, lias w^ely provided that, for admission .to certain Offices of important trusty a resiJcuce shall be required sulficient to develope cuaracter ?ind dcsjgn. But might not the general character and capahilitios of a citizen be safely communicated to every one manifesting 3 bona tide purpose , of en^bar king his life and fortunes permanently with us.?" Let us not be suspected of indulging in n^rriw prcjudicett, of inflam- ing party feelings, or saying that one set of politicians are exclusivtly the friends of aliens, another, entirely hostile ; we have given you specimens of the policy of each. The sentiments of Mr. JefKrson, just citied, reflect great credit on his head and heart. So far, however, from inviting aliens to plunge into politics, we dissuade them from it. It is their duty to be modest o'jscrvers of parties and prin- ciples; it is their part to form correct opinions, but not to meddle; to see, but not to touch : to look on. but not to interfere, until, hav. ing been Bye yedrs spectators of the busy and important movements of fi Ration of freemen, they may become actors in their turn, under the ./ioleran obligation yvhich citizenship imposes. The source of every blessing, and itself the mo«t valuable of all which America offers to the enaigrant, is ^ degree of civil and political Uber* ty, more ample ^nd bejtter secured in this republi.c, tlian any where in the whole world besides. The principles of liberty which are embodied in our frame of go- vernmeht and in our laws, branch out likewise through every depart- ment of society, mould our manners, and determine the character even of ov^r 4oipe^tic relations. They have the effect of producing, generally, in the deportment of individuals, who know neither su- periors nor inferiors, a certain degree of ease and dignity that is equally removed from servility and arrogance. It is one of the prac- tical results of (hose principles that the poorer classes in this commu- nity are more civilized, more polite and friendly, though not so sub- missive, as persons of the same fortunes in Eurcpe. They are alto usually followed by impartial justice in the equal distribution of family property. Henc^ opulence is rarely seen to accumulate on one branch, while others languish in genteel bei^gary. As there is no where an aristocratic establishment, the ampMtude of the community is never broken up into little compar(mciits envious and contemptuous of each other. £yery man's range of occupation is extended, while every st^te is held wortiiy pf resp,ect. Honest industry no Adhere derogates, but the facility of providing for a family is every where enlarged. Nothing is more worthy of regard than the contrast between the general demeanor of Europeans living here, and what is alleged ot the name peqple , ^nd others similar to them, whilst under the yoke of trans-atlantic governments. In New- York city alone, there are sup- posed jo be nut less thaA twelve thousand Irish, and the number of all other foreisner^ may probably be as many. The othe" great cities «f th^ l^niteiT Statea have an equal proportion, accordmg to their HIKIS TO (MIGRANTS. 639 population ; and emigrants from the old world arc settled, and in pro- gress of settlement, every where throughout the Union ; yet* here they are never accused of sedition or rebellion, or conspiracy against the government. They are never disarmed by a military force, and no magistrate trembles when they provide themselves with ammuni- tion. They are, inde«d, among the most strenuous supporters of the government ; and it is evident that a country may exist m the utmoft good order, peace, and prosperity, under such a system of law as they are willing to maintain with their lives* It is manifest, there- fore, tliat if the laws were in Europe what they arc here, Europe need not drive her children into exile. The same meo viho are CdUed rebels there, are esteemed and tranquil citizens here, without having changed their nature or their sentiments. But here the law is made by the majority, for the good uf the greater number ; and for this reason, it is essentially equal and impartial. It prohibits nothing but what is in itself morally wrong. Hence, there are fewer laws, and fewer transgressions ; but wheu a real transgression happens, an ofleu' ded community is always prompt to support the law ; for it then vin* dicates its own decision, and its own safety. It is ol'tcn detested, because it seems tu be the penalty uf Providence, that inordinate power shall always corrupt the holder, and can never be possessed without being followed by such a train of eriU, so much wretched- ness to those who endure, and so much depravity in those who exercise itj that it is felt to b« a forced state, and a pervcni««a of nature, 4 A^oa Avr INDEX TO THE PRINCIPAL COUNTRIES, TOWNS,^SJi:AS, RIVERS, ^c H MENTIONED IM THE' FORECOINO WORK. A. Ailsa Crais; AlaWama river Albany Albemarlr* sound Alexandria, I). C. . . Ohio Allegany river, . / mouutains Alnwick Altamaha river . Alum creek . . Amboy Amlierst Annapolis Appalachy river . Appamattox river Arkansas river Arran island Ashley river Ashtabula rirer . Athens, Geo. Atlantic ocean 2S, 54, Auburn Authterraouchty Au Claise river AujTusta, Geo. A^on . ^ Ayr 107 30, 207 '105, 210. 201, 50, 239, BanbridgP, Uk. , Oh. B. IJalienlrae Ihllston springs Paga. 2« SQO 5jG 187 150 358 318 305 223 207 425 293 83 142 274 162 380 2S 200 409 20S 474 257, 202 527 230 470 2(57 359 518 249 242 4'21 '239 553 T]all3'iiaiiincl) Baltimore . . I Banks of Newloundland Barnstaple . • Basi . • Batavia Beanlstown Beargra"!s creek Beauford • BeauFort Beaver — — — creek Bedford . . Belfast Bellepre . • Bennington • Benson treek Bergen Btrm'idas . • Berwick Beibiehem Rig Bellv's creek Big Boiieti(k creek Birmingham Black Mingo creelv river, N. C. river, S. C. rivtr, 1 OL.is. « river, IMis-. river, Oliio I'ick . Bladentburg BiannejbDS-^clt's 1 land Bloody run • Blooirfield . Blue lick B'oUcit 37. Page' 24(» 2S0 262 U.i 224 5 1 :i 41 'J 39t» 1S9 200 457 304 25 fr 351 8G 397 Jp9 30 22;. 37 '2 425 '}07 234 193 184 19.-. 3 St) 390 401 439 144 350 30,3 51S 409 221 Ir. "if I ■ i ■", 042 INDEX. Bonavista . Bordentown Boston Brandywine creek Bristol, R. I. . Penn. British Possessions in North Anserica Broaiialbin Brookfield Brooklyn Brownsville Brunswick, Vcr. , N. J. Brush creek . Buffalo — — ^ cretk Bunker's hill Bun's milis Burlington, Ver. — .N.J. Pogc. 499 113, 294 77 135, 29 V 70 115, 294 Charleston, IVlas% , N. H. Burns' birth-place Bury Byram river ^ C. Caledonia Cambahee river Cambridge, Mass. Canadaway Canandaigud lake Caneserago hulluw Canton (Canton district Cape Breton — Clear Fear — — Fear rivtr . Hatlcras Look ( >at Carlisle, Penn. , Eiig Cascades in Virginia CatarayoB creek Cavf s; III Virginia Cayahoga river Cnyuga lake ("!hai;rin river Cliambernb>ir«j Ckauipiaiii, lake 493 550 89 56 . 540 86 110,293 421 107, 48.'} 486 79 540 86 113,294 249 222 102 517 200 88 482 107, 519 105 530 445 446 499 212, 257 187 184 187 187 132, 298 218 167 433 168 449, 455 527 105, 527 404 299 105 ., S. C. -. Va. Charles river Charley Charlottesville Chatahonchy river Chataughque lake Chesapeake bay Chesnut ridge Chester river Chillicothe Chillicothe district Chippaway — creek Choptank river Cincinnati Cincinnati district Clarksville Clear creek, Ky. , Ohio Cleveland Clyde river Firth C«hoes falls Colchester Columbia, dis'rict of Columbia, S. C. Comptoi) , Little Conaquenesinjjt crtik Concord, N. H. , Mas.-. Conecuh Connecticut ————— river ■ reservation Connedogwinet croek Connecocheague trei k Conewago hrlis creek Conneought Cooper river Coosaw river Coshocton » Cashsokia Cove of Cork CraCisbury , Ciieir Cumberland river Page. 79 83 196 339 79 221 172 207, 390 105 137, 141 309 255 141 423 424 490 490 HI 301 3tiJ 378 397 428 4.i.'i 2,5 555 ITJ l/yj 20'J 70 70 3'24 83 9,*j 390 9« 91 457 2'»» 301 29 (j 2'j(i . 46M 200 200 441 5.5 y O j ij 86 22Q INDEX- 613 Page. Page. Cumbernauld • 228 FdlmoQlh . 172 Cupar, Fife « 235 Fayetteville 185 D. Firth of Forth 234 Dalkeith • 251 of Tay 236 Danbury • • ]00 Fislikill 559 Danville • « 413 Film river 207 Darien • 208 Fort M.indan 385 Dayton • 475 Niagara 496 Dedham • 7fi ScliloMer 509 Deer creek • 425 VVillian;8 293 Deerfield • • 475 Forth and Clyde canal 228 Delaware • • 139 Fox river 393 114, ] 134,285, • 294 Frankford 1 15 Derby creek 425 Frankfort 397 ^*?tioit • • 462 Franklinton . 475 Donaghadee • 241, 248 Fredericksburg 158 Dover, N. H. • • 83 Fredericktowji , 142 , Del. • I3t) French grant 358 Duwningsiovrn • 295 Frenchiown 285 Dowiipatrick • 248 French creek 141 Dromnre • 242 G. Dumbianc • • 228 Galllopolis 35* Dutnfiies • • 158 Gap Hill 295 Dunbar • • 224 Gennessee river 105, 517 Dundee • 236 Geneva 107, 524. Dundrum bay • 241, 243 Georgia 206 Durham, N. H. • 83 George, lake 105 , Eng. • 223 Georgetown, Del. 136 Dysart E. • 234 , D. C. O CI 146 195 337 Eagle creek ■ 417 , Va. East Canada creek 547 Kv 41? ^ 1 «# East river « 63 Gerardeau 387 Edenton • 4 189 German ocean 223 Edinburgh • 224 ,237 Gifvan 239 Edistu river • 200 Glades 307 Elizabethtown, N.J. • 110 Glasgow 25, 226 Penn. point * 296 293 . Gnadenhutten Grand island 443 490 Elk creek • • 480 Niagara 506 river 1 • 141 river 464 EUicotl's creek • 510 Greenock 26 Enkefatioke swamp • 207 Greensburg, Geo. 263 Erie • 480 , Peno. 310 , lake • 452, 459 Green river 412 Exeter • • 83 Greenwich, East 70 F. GietnaGieen 219 Fs^irfield • • 98 Gulf Stream . 33 Falkland • • 230 Gutgatsink creek 434 Falls of Niagara • 491 H. Falls of Ohi» • 37 « Hac1<;ensack rlrer \m m ^ «!,• 6ii Uidjington Hdt;ar«ilovvii . Ilalitax, N. C. , Eny. . N. y. Ilallowftll lianiilton, Scot. , Ohio Hampton Hanover . ■ f » Court Hou.^e JNDEX. Kauhaway, Little Kansas river Kaskaskia river Kaiskill Keerie Kendal Keneconeck creek Keniucky . river — , Vir. .t'V' Harmony '•^Hamsburg • Harlem Hart lord, Cot>. , N. Y. Havre de Grace Hell Gate Hurkimer HilUborowgb, N. C , he. Hills in Conneciicut Hockhocking river liolldud purc'l)a^t; - Jl(UJf oy.fc .cretjj. Horse netk • li Housaionic river Hoyle, lake Hudson liver Huron, lake • river I. lUluois river. — — — territory ' i J fuliana Territory ' ijjswich I^iiiidsin Lake Liie J. Jalksonborongh Jatiiaica, L. L James river .icirfrsonville Jersey Johnstown Jonatlian creek Juniata river K. Kunhaway river X'agc. iOO 224- 142 lt>9 222 105 220 4.73 172 83 \5'J 172 321 291 102 90 533 291 63 107, 545 189 242 99 429 5J2 . . Am 08 213 105, 559 105 4ti2 401 Lexington 383 Liiking riv«r 383 trtck . .- . - 381 LiHiestone . , Q:i Xitcfafield 460 Little falls Lisburn , . 41 Liverpool • 269 Loch Ryan 161 LocLeiby , 378 Lomond [lills ]U9 Londoo 549 Long Isliiud 430 sound 130, 302 Long Ueach • Lon«to\vn • 16G; 354 Louiiburij . Killbucks creek Kills Kilmarnock . Kindt rhook Kiii<{liorn . . Kingston, N. J. . , Upper Canada Kirkaldy Knoxville L. Lancaster, Penn. , Eng. Langholm Lansingburjj (.aurel Hil) ^•cVanon X^ecds , ^ , Lehigh river Leicester Le Roy Letari's falls Levvisiown, Del. — , N. Y. Page', 16d 380 383 383 559 83 218 427 411 372, 398, 412 434. 2y3 238 559 234 110 501 559 234 40G 132, 29fi 217 251 107 309 475 . 222 129 89 517 353 130 503 401 412 434 359,411 99 54d . Massachusetts Mnitapony river M*Ct(iuitlstown Mchenin rirer Melhven Mexiiano river Miami river — of the 363 lakes bay country Michigan, laUe Tornlory Michiliuiackinac ttiails 'Middltbury Middletoa, Con. '— ^— , I'-y. •————, Ken. Milledgeviile IVlilleisburg Millfori Milton Misiiissippi river , — — Tt'irilory Missouri river ■ , LiUlc Mohawk rivrr Mohecan John's creek Mofl'at , rago. P.IJ'O. 388 Moiii rivi r • 3 SO' 3S5 INI inongahclji 130 317 302 Mi):i»;.ri!ier • 86 377 M inucal • 50 J 500 Morgiinio'Aii • 180 ISU M.:ri.(!Jli • 223 VJ2 Moi'.ivain-. in TVca I !'jn)r •\{nv, «C' 80 in Vt.ruijiii S5 — — in ]\Ltssaihu.-.» Its 02 05 ■ in Niiv York 104 QGl — in I'tniv^ ylv.mia 122 3'1'2 — • — — — in Plary aud 111 05 — — in Virginia 103 501 in North C'arr li;n m7 8G in Soutl. Car- !i!ia •200 112 2'2\ t '» lOJi \u Tennessee [ib'J in Ktniuiky 412 530 192 ana 385 ■J50 Mud rreidi • 93 Mu-skuij^uin river • 317 433 3H. M nihil • 22 S 31S Mystic rivtr • 79 89 N. 140 Nanticoke rivrr • Ml 02 Narri;;;nnset bay • tJ7 15Q Narrows ut New Y ork 5« 302 Nashville • « 40'» l(i|. Natchcs • 302 220 Natural bridge in \ 'irginia 102 3SS Newark, N. J, • 110 •I'Jl 470 O 475 501 , u. C. • • 490 470 , bay • i20S ' 303 Newbern • IbO 4(32 New Brunswick • 400 402 Newbur-,' 107 553 4C2 Ne-A!.i;iy • f-fi S(i Nev, bnrj port • 03 100 Newcastle, Del. • 135 285 I9(i .Va, • 172 307 , ling. • '223 208 , Ire. • • 24^^ 40y New ConiL^rstowii • 44i* I'S New fane • ba 551 Newfoniidiand • 490 393 New Hampshire • 82 3'JO Newhaven • 07 385 New Jersey * 112 380 Lisbon » 474 105 London ■ Ct 90 434 Lancaster • 428 219 — — Madrid • 3b7 64G — — Orleans Hiila ie'phia ■Newpoit, K. I. -,Ky. 36+ Ntwry Jjewif)wn, L. I. Ke%v Y«rk city 56 102 259 272 Niagara, Fort river . Nimshillutt ciet-k Norfolk Norttiamptoii North Carolina • — — B';rwick Ia»v — — - mountain . Northallerton , Northwcft Territory Norwalk . . Norwich « Nose . « Notch . • Nottaway river , Nouin<^hain Nova Scotia . Nase river . . O. Oakmulgre river . Occoquhan creek • Oconee river . Ogeeche river , little Ohio river, . 335 373 Ohio company's puichase Ohio, state ot Oneida Lake — river Onondago lake • ^. — court-house • .1 hollow salt works Oatario county Oroiskirk Orleans Territory Osage river . • Ouisconsin river • Owasca lake . Oxforii . . P. Paint creek Paisley . • Pamiico sound INDEX. Page. 3SU 443 05 413 242 26y 104 2d8 55^ 4y6 504 445 171 93 187 221. 301 223 384 98 99 547 82 164 252 499 183 Pamunky river Paris Paiagoula Passuic river , Passamaquuddy Patapscu river — — creek Pailihedd Patterson . Paiuckct liver Patuxt-nt river Ptarl river Pedec river, big -, little Peckskill. P(-nn)>ylvania . . Penriih Perth Petersburg, Vir. Petersburg, Geo. • Philadelphia 116 280 Piscataqua river PitKlmrg . . 132 Piilsfield Placentia Piatt river . . Pocomoke river 207 Point Pleasant 157 Port Glasgow . 207 Portland 207 Portaferry 207 Port Patrick . 239 410 ——Royal 347 Portsmouth, N. II. 470 ,Vir. 105 , Ohio 105 Port William 105 Potomac river 529 Poughkeepsie . 107 529 Prtscott 529 Preston 521 Princeton . . Ill 217 Providence 388 river 386 Q. 384 Quarantine ground, N. Y. 56 105 Quebang river 254 Quebec Queenstowu 422 R. 25 Raisin river . " 187 lUleigh rage. 159 40S 390 109 95 141 14.1 235 113 73 73 141 390 192 191 559 128 2l^ 233 163 208 294 82 314 93 499 386 141 35+ 2« 95 248 249 172 83 172 358 372 146 559 221 217 293 67 ^7 259 89 500 501 462 184 iiandt INDEX. Rapidt of Niagara river Rappahannock river . Kariton river Kay's Hill — - Milla Reading Reedy creek Redhouk Red river Rhode Island Richmund springs, Geo. 48 Roanoke nver . Ro( hdale Itocky river . 455 Holing river ftome . HHfielville . I Rutland Ifye Hynbeck S. Sub'Peiivtr Sacket's harbour Saleni, Mas«. ,N. J. . N.C. ■ . Salt creek . • Sandy Ilook Sandy river, Bi^j rreek, O. , N. Y. iiandusky biy 4(Jl — — river . 461 Santee river Sassafras river Savannah .35 20.5 — — — river 31 37 52 .51 Scioto river Sheneetady Schuylkill Scrub Hill Sea islands Selkirk Seneca lake ' ; river Shap fell? Sheffield Shelby ville Sill nandoah livtr Shippeiisburii Shippingporr .'Jhoeiibrua 358 105 Page. 490 159 293 302 266 132 191 559 386 69 160 267 183 222 461 412 107 413 86 102 559 3&6 533 80 113 189 425 55 412 357 540 470 470 192 141 261 205 425 107 127 302 207 251 424 527 218 252 397 166 298 SIS 443 Shrewsbury Sidling Hill Sidney, Cape Breton Sippo creek Skeneateleas . 105 lake Skerries lights Smithfield Somerset South Carolina Kingston Sparta . . 208 Spencer Si'rinpfield, Mas?. . O. St Albans . . — C'larlfs — r.lair, l.nke — Chnr^vlllft — rVancis river — Hnro — John's, N.r. — John's Isl .nd — Iiouis ~ Mary's river Stamford Siaien Island 104 Statisfical tablo of Ohio nf N. York of U. Stati;s Siannton Stpubenville — district Stillwater creek Stirling . , Siockbridge Stony river point Stratlijid Straogford Suobury . , SufljfM' Sullblk Sugar creek" Sollivau's Island Stisqtiehannah river Swaiawra crettk Swimming creek Swiss vineyards Symmca* f urcliase T. Tachc river 129 647 Pago. 255 302 49:» 425 528 105 257 172 307 199 70 265 8!^ 91 430 387 462 47 4 386 8f; 49f) 499 387 208 207 98 271 472 560 5o7 172 3S7 337 434 f)3 383 Sin 254 248 89 91 172 434 268 297 296 190 371 iS8 6 IS Tarli'in T.ir river r!vcr rirc;- Th?!n."; livrr Tinki ru.reek Tingii river TiMi'icanoc river Tollaiwl Tcry islaml To'ie.vantarrpek Tiai!« wind* Treiii<»n ■ — - — • brill gu Trny Tumbfkby tivcr Tmtlf crcfek Tu^carawa river T'JSf. T ri)fk T)bfe ii^lit-bousi I (Jnitctl Si;»f«"s Up['<'r Canntht Urbaima, Va. IJlica V. »«5 , ' f y)o 50!) IN'DtX. IH'J 428 is:j 93 07 405 405 Q9 450 129 3SI 100 28 511 32 123 114 107 29) 310 44« 212 205 •ISD Vi-rmillioi) livf r Vermont Versa! I If"? Vincennes Virf;inia Viruioia niilltarv ]mu\- VV. WabT^!\ rvcr Wak-aidiiiica crock Wallip-r-rl Waliiul uet k, O. . , Pen;-. WnhliRm ^Vnr^en, H. T. Warreiiton, N ('. Warringfoii, Km;^ Warren, (). Washin<^ton -— — — , Per r. Wa'ertcwu, TVIasj. f • -'• ■ - 4P0 G05 Ml. 2t8 501 501 172 SS2 401 85 413 382 102 427 'S81 4k) 251 07 425 •KS'J 88 70 183 221 17 4 280 181) 200 411' 88 WftttrfonJ , 107 \Vi 434 172 475 540 434 291 189 103 32 •0 §5 100 82 * 89 no 475 442 S9;) 2S8 386 132 95 172 501 102 15!) 131 430 433 38? 475 ■V' ' >. Od:. riN'iS. J •■ ■(■ 107 141 239 ISO -'.! Page- ,5,U 540 267 100 8!) 5VS 24f> 90 309 89 420 340 82 S81 4f.> 434 172 475 640 434 201 18[) IQfl 32 B(i 9(1 100 172 4IS 82 95 ^ 8J 110 47".' 442 £90 2S8 386 132 or, 172 501 102 15!) 131 430 433 335 475 :'l-jv:;!y;i',