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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode. r erreta d to It le pelure. ;on A n 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 - - -^ -i'-'^ ■■,>■'■ 1-'' I . ' , " , - ./T ■ > ' 1 '. • , i ' :~ t 'i . ■ ■.-,.;; !, "■. ■■■ mmmm ■- ■< ■ i'*'.' , r. ' i''''l im^^^i^sjT^ *r -m-. : 1* 111111 1 ' i i « #M«« ^M, I • i /.H i U ii 'H l»t H^» i ' » '"m. f I I [ II I < / l' j*l - \ l lt > f !«■ I " l»« "l ' ' '*' FROM T"*\ I iHi i I i m II I i t ii . 11 B ^ ToT 01^ |^J«Ll^FtY .<^ -r«— *- AN ACCOUNT <)f^liE i-. x s E C6M E K p Ei> i ir m N to ^ : R E D^^^^^^^^^^^^ M^ i3l:I.JlL,;jii:ir OF A PEIVATE SOL01ER PAIOS % OBHTS. HAMILTON : W«Itlt»D AT THE »'tV««!8«« TI»W«'' 0**tCt. HUertSWX 8Tm»»T IMaaaiiliiilMMK:.-aHa«il'<«MM^«* IMnT ' S amd BO Y^% OliQf Billl O iVd. /{? King stmt and m 6 Ma0 W HATS, GAPS.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^F^^ BUCKSKIN GWl^S^Sm^^^^ TBAVBIilirO BAGS, &o., &<*♦ ^ KO. 13 JAMES^OT^ Cash Paid for Itaw Fura. le^' ^-f — - ^ .'i > i' i" ^ jASv « U I^G BO EBTIST, No. S4 KINC STBWT WBJifk ■J - • . Oiier FieliVs L&(^ier Blore, neMuo^^ $atr In practice Twenty Years. .'? ipiiii, INO. 68iT£R. r.; 0OZ?5, iff n^ AWn *r WtmitHk, urrQ]BH g a P3 O < O H P3 O Ul f=, u o CO I. -J I /■* I' R O M I OI^ONTOToj^ ORT fjARPvY AN ACCOUNT OF THE SECOND EXPEDITION < TO H « S « O g w i (I I RED RIVER I>I_A-I^Y OF A PRIVATE SOLDIER: d HAMILTON : ^ * PRINTED AT THE "EVENING TIMES" OFFICE, HUGHSON STREET, 4- . •. u» / c ^ '^ / ■' : / PKi:i \ci': in tlu" yo;ir 1S72, whon I published my " Diary of the Scfoiu! l'!\pcdition to I''ort (larry," the reason for send- ing the expedition was generally known throuj^hcnit the country. Hut in the lapse ot years many have forgotten and a new ^eii'.M'ation has ^rown up " which knows not " the histor\- ot 22 years a.'^o. Some ot those into whose hands my pamplilet has tallen ha\e asked me to write out an account oi what led to the sending;- of our little expedition. After the collapse of (he l"\>nian Raid on the frontier i)f Ouebec Province in i \-olunieers should be sent at oudj to re-inforce the small ;rarrist)n o\' too men then in I'ort Ciarrv. Three men from each battalion o\' \oIunteers were asked for. OuQ company of mo inen was enlisted in Quebec, and another of 103 in Ontario. .Six days later, 0.1 October i(>. this force, with about lifty \ oyaj^aMirs, rendezvoused a' C'ollin^wood, as detailetl in the followin<,'' patifes. Tlunii^'h the lifovernment had reason to belie\ethe back- bone of the Fenian movement broken, these re-inforce- ments were sent as a precautionary measure, lest a feu reckless men, assisted by dissatisfied French Half-breec|s, mii^hr do some mischief. The inner facts were not published, however, till several years afterward, and we lielieved there was a strong- probability that we would have fij^htiiii;' to do before the next summer. WHien 1 published the diarv- I was a private soldier, subject to military discipline, and not free to criticise the officers. The arranoenients for the comfort and welfare of the soldiers were as complete as could well be devised for such an expedition, and most of the officers did their best for the men under their charge, working with and planning for them, and showing their authority as little as possible. But two or three of them, and notrUily the ensign of my company, seemed so puflied up by their position that they not only avoided the slightest exertion on their own part but harshly and rudely treated the men who were unfortunately under their orders. Miui}' of the non-coms and privates were the superiors in education and social stancling of these oflicers, and some held commissions of higher rank in volunteer regfiments. Justus A. Griffin. Hamilton, Out., Aug., 1893. 41 some of the men assisted in unloading from the scow the machinery for the steamboats which are to Ite put upon the Lake of the Woods and Kainy Lake, and which was brought up on the (Jhicora. We were dismissed from this 12 TORONTO TO FORT (URRV. (( fatigue," .as it is called in military language, at a. m., and immediately after, I, with live others, was warned for guard, and had to go on immediately. While on guard a prisoner Avas brought us who served in ths late Franco-Prussian war, and also served in Algiers, and entertained us with accounts of the French army and the late war. About noon the steamer Manitoba ar- rived with horses and waggons, wliich were to carry our baggage aiul i>rovisions to Lake Shebandowan, and the cattle which are to furnish us with fresh meat part of tlie way. It is raining heavily this evening, ?nd av(> have a wet and a muddy prospect before us. Thursday, 2(;th — A dismal, damj), cold jnorning, with a steady soaking rain, and no sign of clearing up. At 8 o'clock, [^ ni., we were relieved from guard, and de- tailed to tale charge of some baggage waggons, and shortly after .lur Company, No. 1, (Ontario,) one hundred and three men, marched away, liaving deposited their knapsacks and blankets in waggons provided for that purpose, but for some reason the waggon of which I was in charge was not provided with horses till eleven o'clock, and my comrades were then miles away on the road. After standing by the waggon in the drenching rain three hours waiting for a team and teamster, they at length arrived, and I, too, left the last signs of civilized life behind. Six miles through a wild and rocky countryj and we arrived at the camp of some of the workmen on the road, and we sto])ped witli them for dinner, heartily enjoying their camp-made bread and bean soup. By this lime the rain had turned to snow, and fell so thick and last that in less than an hour it had become several inches deep. Leaving this place we toiled on tlirough the mud and snow about seven miles, wlien the teamster, who had been paying his attentions very assiduously to a bottle of brandy lor some time, became quite reckless, TORONTO TO FOliT GARllY. 13 t a. ra., ,s warnecl While on 7e(\ in the 1 Algiers, I army and nitoha ar- > carry our m, and the part of the ^0 have a rning, with ig up. At d, and de- orffons, and »ne hundred )sited their cd for that ,vhich I was yen o'clock, n the road, iiching rain ,er, tliey at 3 of ciyilizcd cky country, workmen on ner, heartily soup. By 11 so thick jme seyeral on tlirough ho teamster, duously to a lite reckless, and alhjwing liis horses to go as thi-y plfiiscd/tlicy drew the waggon into tlie ditcli, jind in endeavouring to got it out again the doubletree of the waggon was broken. Tt had now becfme quite dark, and not only was the wnow falling fast, but frost began to make itself felt, and as we had no moans of repairing the danuige, the teamster unhitched his horses and 1 shouldered my blankets, and we trudged two miles further, where we reached a log ciibin called the Fifteen Mile Shanty. Here were all the staff ofiicers of our force, the rear-guard, and two or three stragglers. As so^" as we had got our clothes thawed out a little we partook of a hearty supper, and then the teamster with whom I had been trayelling started back to Thunder Bay, while the rest (»f us made preparations for spending the night in the shanty, by drying ourselves as well as possible and spreading down our blankets in the most eligible positions we could tind. The main body of the force had taken their dinner at this stopping ])lace, and they went on, so that I did not haye an opportunity to know how they enjoyed their day's march, but suppose they were not only fa- tigued, but like myself, covered with ice and snow, and with greatcoats stiff enough to staiul alone. Friday, STth. — Last night was a yery cold as well as stormy one, and the ground is frozen quite hard this morning. During the night a number of Indians, half- breeds and French Canadian yoyageurs came into the shanty, then ensued a babel which both interested and amused me, for while the soldiers were talking English, the French t'anadians and half-breeds vere conversing with each other and the cook of the shanty in French, and the Indians were using their own language, Avhicli I believe Avas the Iroquois. At an hour earlier this morning the voyageurs began to take their departure, and soon after some more came in from Thunder Bay, all 14 TORONTO TO FORT GARRY. being on their way to assist tis in our journey. It is an interesting 8tuing places it wUi wdd wiuch to the comfort 0£ emigrants who may uome by tijis rc^ad in futures years. My comrades, Avith the exception of one man — a butcher, who remained to get ready some meat for the force — had taken their depaiture about an hour before our arrival, and orders were left for that man and myself to proceed with our stores in company with the voyageura to-morrow morning. It was within a few miles ot this place that gold was recently discovered, and as the region is also rich in other metals it will probably be the scene of much activity next year and in all future years. Sunday, 29th. — At eight o'clock this morning we em- barked in one of the boats provided for the first expedition, and which are to bo used for us likewise, lor the next 400 miles. These boats are of several sizes, and are from 25 to 30 ft. in length, five or six feet in width, and from three or four feet in depth, with six, seven, or eight oars, 18 TORONTO TO FORT GARRY. according to size, and fitted for two masts and small sails — but we had only one sail for many of them — and carry four or five tons weight. Having got everything ready for a start, "a tow-line was thrown to t)ic tug, which is nothing more or less than one of the expedition boats fitted up with an engine of about 4-horse power ; and now we are on Lake Shebandowan. This lake is about 30 miles in length, and appears to one more like a river than a lake, 80 narrow and winding is it. It does not appear to be more than live miles in width at the widest part, in many places is not more than 100 yards wide, and in one l)lace narrows to about 15 yards. It is surrounded by a very rocky and hilly country, some of it wooded, but much of it quite bare from the cfiects of fires. On this lake we met a large canoe containing ten Indians, which was a novel sight to eyes accustomed to city sights and more civilized styles of boats, while it was astonishing to see the rapidity and regularity with which the paddles were handled, and the swiftness with which the canoe, like a vision, glided away. At noon, we readied the Kashor boywa Portage, and went into the shanty foi dinner, just as another heavy snow storm commenced. Having partaken of a hearty dinner, we portaged our goods, with the help of a span of horses and wagon, loaded them again, and set out upon Lake Kasheboywa, our party now consisting of two soldiers and about twenty or twenty-five voyageurs. For the first two or three miles we had to depend upon our oars as means of locomotion, but at last, in the many turnings of our route, we came into a favorable wind, when the sails were hoisted and we were wafted along much more swiftly and easily. Our time, not being occu- pied at the oars, was employed in listening to stories told by the Indian and lialf-breed voyageurs, some of whom were from the Sault Ste. Marie, and others from the east- ern parts of the country. At about seven o'clock, in the TORONTO TO FORT GARRY. 19 ^• ^ midst of a blinding snow btorni, we reached iLe Height- of-Land Portage, and having unloaded the boats, we went into a wigwam stacdmg near, and were informed by the voyageurs, to whom it belonged, that the soldiers were at the other end of the portage, about a mile and a quarter away, and after getting warmed, I strapped on my kiian- sack and shouldering my blankets, started across the portage, while the voyageurs prepared their camp. Having crossed the portage, I reported to the captain, and joined my comrades about their camp-fires. About half of the company were crowded into a shanty which hss neither windows nor chimney, and was filled with the smoke of two large fires, while the remainder were scarce- ly less comfortable in the midst of a snow-storm out of doors, around huge fires on which they were continually piling wood by armfuls at a time, and round which some performed an Indian war dance, for the double purpose of keeping themselves warm and to pass the time. This Height-of-Land Portage is so called from being situated on that elevation or water-shed known as the Height-of- Land, and from which the river runs in opposite direc- tions, those on the one side running towards the south and south-east into the Gulf of Mexico and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, while those on the other side run toward the north and north-east into the Hudson's Bay and the Arctic Ocean. Monday, 30th. — Having spent a very uncomfortable night, during which very few of us got any sleep, and those few not being much refreslied by it, we loaded our boats and prepared for an early start, but for some reason we did not get started till nearly eleven o'clock. The snow on this portage is now nearly a foot in depth, which, with the ice on the lakes, makes everything have a wintry appearance. At eleven, a. m,, we set out upon the Lac de Mille Lacs, or, the Lake of a Thousand Lakes and 20 TORONTO TO FORT GARRY. Islands, which is a very large lake and full of islands, and to-day it was very rough, the wind being dead ahead of us all the time, which made the rowing very hard for ua, though as there were from fifteen to twenty men in each boat, we were able to take turns at the oars, and so have ^ rest occasionally. In one place, where the islands were so close together as to protect the water from the wind, we came to a narrow passage only about ten yards in width, in which was a fis]jing-nct belonging to xn Indian who had his camji on an island close at hand. The Indian stood by his wigwam with his children, wliile his squaw paddled off to protect the net. We, of coarse, took care not to injure the net, but stopped to give the squaw some evening we hard-tack and tobacco. At about dusk of came in sight of Baiil Portage, having rowed upwards of 30 miles to-day, but wc were obliged to break our way through about half a mile of ice in order to reach the portage. Having at length arrived there, we immediately set to work to unload the boats and portage them and the cargoes, which work occupied us till nearly midnight, when we retired to our tents, which two or three men from each boat had pitched while the others were at the other work, having first to clear places in the snow in which to pitch them, and in some cases they had to clear away brush and trees for the same purpose, and as there was no dry wood to be had, there was some difficulty in building f res, which were almost a necessity, not only for cooking our eveniug meai, but also to dry our clothing. TuESDAv, 31st. — Having been aroused at four v..'clook, after about four hours sleep, we finished loading our boats and set out upon Baril Lake, each boat having an Indian voyageur allotted to it, as a guide. This lake is about eight miles long, and^like all the other lakes through which we have passed, is studded with beauiiful islands of various sizes and shapes, and is surrounded by TOEONTO TO FORT GAKRT. 21 the Barae domc-liko hills which have jrreeted our Bight every day since leaving Thunder Bay ; in the valleys between and on the sides of many of these hills there is evidently much rich soil, judging by the vegeta- tion which they support, though at this season of the year when the ground is white with snow, it is hard to form a good opinion in this respect ; but it is possible that these valleys may yet furnish a large portion of the agricultu- ral produce which will be necessary for the support of the raining population which this section of country is destined to employ ; yet it is probable that the greater portion of such support will be drawn from the more fer- tile regions to the south-east, the north and north-west. At ten a. m., we reached Brule Portage, which is three- quarters of a mile in length. Having portaged boats and stores, and having partaken of a hearty dinner, of which we had great need, in consequence of having had a scanty breakfast and having worked very hard, we again em- barked, and started upon Windegoostogoon, which is a succession of small lakes connected by narrow and in Kome places rapid streams ; the entire length being about twelve miles. In passing through three of the con- necting lakes between the different parts of this lake, our boat got stuck upon rocks and sand-bars, and there was some difficulty in getting it free, and at the fourth the current was so swift that nearly all the crew were com- pelled to get upon the slioro and hold the boat by a tow- line, while two or three remained in it to guide it among the rocks ; in the sixth, wliich was about half a mile long, the difficulty was that the stream was so crooked that the boat could go very little more than its own length without turning a corner, and at its mouth was a sand- bar, through which the boat had to be poled, which oc- cupied more than an hour. At length we reached the end of the lake, but not the end of our day's journey, 22 TOBONTO TO FORT GARRY. for the boat hero entered a small but rapid stream, and all but four of the (U'ew were obliged to leave it and march a mile through the wood, over hilU and through ravines ; sometimes a man would slip down a steep hill, then another would go up to his knees in some half-frozen streamlet or pool ; in the meantime the men in the boat were busily working their way among the rocks of the rapid creek. In about half an hour both the boat and the men on foot reached a point where a lock is in course of construction and nearly finished, which will much diminish the labor of navigating this stream. Here we removed our knapsacks, blankets, and some of our lighter impedimentMf rom the boats, and marched about half a mile further among the rocks and hills, while the boats thus lightened were taken that much further by water, but then reached a point at which they and all their cargo had to be portaged. This place is called French Portage, and is considered the worst portage on the route. Having reached this place we immediately set to work at unloading the boat and carrying the cargo over the portage, which is a very steep and rugged hill between one hundred and one hundred and fifty feet in height. Having got all the goods over and our tents pitched, we next had to set to work at moving the boacs, and here one of the men got a title which is likely to stick to him. The men having been called together to go for the boats, one who had been watching the knapsacks and blankets of his comrades, at their request, was miss- ing, and the officer in command of the squad was very angry with him, thinking he was shirking his work, and said that he was dodging it, whereupon the men named him the " Artful Dodger." This business of watching the knapsacks and blankets has become quite a serious matter, for in consequence of our rapid travelling, fre- quent portaging, and early morning starts, men are con- TORONTO TO FORT GARRY, 23 tinually losing something, which they very naturally endeavor to replace by the first articles they can lay their hands upon, and it is something amusing to hear the remarks made when we reach a stopping place and prepare for a meal or retiring to sleep : one will call out, " Who has my knapsack ? " " Who has my blankets ? " calls out another. " That's ray knapsack," says a third, while from every quarter may be heard such expressions as, " Some one has my plate." " Who was it that ])orrowed my knife and fork with- out leave and forgot to return them ?" " That's my cap, I know it by the mark on the bottom," "I would like to lind the man who stole my greatcoat," etc., etc. ; and the tone in which these complaints are uttered, and the comical remarks which frequently ac- company tliem or arc replied to them by the few who hap- pen to be in possession of these necessities, amuse one in spite of the fact that nearly every man is himself a subject of the general misfortune. Still by the time we are ready to embark in the morning nearly everytliing is generally found. For portaging the boats, a tow-line is attached to each one, and about half the crew take hold of this and exert all their strength in drawing, while the remainder steady the boat and use their best efforts also in endeav- oring to move the boat as rapidly as possible over the portage. And now may be heard the cries from the leaders of " Altogether," " Again," " Yo-heave," and from the Indian or French-Canadian voyageur, " Ilooroo." To facilitate the work of portaging the boats at this place tliere are " skids," formed by })inniug sticks of wood about six feet in length at equal distances upon long pieces of timber, something like the rounds of a ladder or the ties of a railway. When the boats had been drwan to the 24 TORONTO TO FOIIT GARRY, I'f top of the hill the tow lino was taken to the stern of the boat and attached there, one end being wound around a tree to aid the men in restraining it from slipping too rapidly down the hill, which would inevitably have de- stroyed it. While this work was going on a young man named Gowland got his leg under a boat, and had not his comrades been prompt in stopping it he would have had a broken leg, if nothing worse. Wednesday Nov. 1st.— Arose at an earlv hour and loaded our boats, after Avhich a short time was allowed for breakfast. The boats then started down the French Creek, each being manned by four oarsmen and two guides, the navigation of this stream being very difficult in conse- quence of the lowness of the water and its snake-like course, for it runs a distance of nine miles to get twx miles from our camping ground of last night. In the raeantim*; the remainder of the men had to march in single file sorre three or four miles through the wooded and hilly country to the same destination, which they reached several hours before the boats, the occupants of which had been under the necessity of getting into the freezing and partly frozen Wiv^er to force the boats through. Finally, about noon, all reached the point where we were to re-erabark, and one after another the different crev.-s rowed away upon Lac Francais, or French Lake, which wo soon crossed and run down the stream connecting it with L;ike Kaogosikok, or Pickerel Lake, and at 4 p. m. readied I*ine Portage, over which we portaged our boats and goods, rowed over an- other small lake to the Deux Rivieres Portage, which we crossed, and then camped for the night. This portage was formerly called Jacob's Ladder, and was a worse portage even than the F"ejch Porta^•e ; but as bridges L;ive been built over two ra\'ires ihrc.igh vrhich every- thing Lad formerly lo be. oarried, tiiu:- .nuiiii- the ascent and descent of two high hiU>, it is now much improved and TORONTO TO FORT GARRY. 25 corapavatively easy to cross, still there was some ercite- ment and danger for us in drawing the boats up and down the short hills still remaining, and in crossing the bridges, which have no railing. We here overtook the Quebec Company and camped beside them. Thursday, 2nd. — Having taken breakfast, struck our tents and otherwise prepared for the march, the boats were put into the water, in doing which one of them was found to need repairing, and the crew set to work at it, the job taking about half an hour. After crossing a small sheet of water we arrived at a narrow channel, where the water was so shallow that all but four men had to leave the boat and walk through marshes of wild rice nearly a mile, through the forest and over the hills another mile, and then another marsh, where fires were needed and built to keep us warm and dry while waiting for the boats to get through, and in bringing them through, the oarsmen and guides had to get into the water and drag their craft, and even then they had to get the assistance of some of those who had left pre- viously and marched through the wood, and Wrho now attached tow-lines to the bows of the boats and assisted in bringing them through. When all had reached the mouth of this creek we once more embarked and set out upon Sturgeon Lake, and after getting well out into the lake we found ourselves in a favorable wind for the first time, and soon hoisted our sails in order to take advan- tage of it; and this added to the excitement caused by the continued rivalry which exists between the different crews as to which shall reach the portage first. In these races, as they may be called, there is often amusement furnished by the efforts at rowing made by men totally unaccustomed to that kind of exercise, some of them being very unapt .scholars, while otiiers seemed to learn very readily ; when one or two of the clumsy men happen 20 TORONTO TO FORT GARRY to be at the oars many a hearty laugh is raised at their expense, though it is also true that the ire of the other oarsmen is excited. Those who happen to be looking on at the time take great delight in using such expressions as " That's it, all together, one after the other," and similar taunting words, which arc generally taken in good part, though sometimes an angry retort is given by some of the quick-tempered ones. On the shore of this lake, near the point where we entered it, we were surprised to see a building constructed of squared timber, with the Union Jack Hying over it. \Vc were informed by one of our guides that this was the residence of a chief of the Chippewas, and as we passed, an Indian came out and cheered, his cheer being returned with interest by the soldiers. We also met a canoe containing an Indian, his squaw, and two papooses, who vvere objects of a good deal of interest to the men. Having passed through Sturgeon Lake and several small lakes, v,'c an-ived in the dusk of evening at a short portage over which wo car- ried the cargo of our boat while-thc voyageurs and four men ran the boat down the rapid ; aftei which we loaded the boat again and crossv '' a small sheet of smooth water to Maligne Portage, on the lower end of which we pitched our tents, leaving the portaging of everything save the tents, knapsacks and blankets till morning. Friday, 3rd. — Having been aroused at an early hour, we portaged our goods over this somewhat rough portage — a distance of about 500 yards^ — and then drew the boats over land about 100 yards, and again put them into the river. In portaging the boats I had a narrow escape from a broken leg, and perhaps from death itself. While straining every muscle in drawing the ooat, my leg got caught between two long skids, with the boat on top of them, and I was thrown down in front of it ; but, thanks to the presence of mind of my comrades, under a TORONTO TO FORT GAIIRY. 21 merciful Providence, as soon as I called out that the boat was on me, they exerted their entire strength to restrain the boat in its motion down the hill, and I was soon released from a painful and perilous position, with a thankful heart and a lame leg, but the lameness nearly all left me before night. Having got the boats into the water, an Indian guide, assisted by three or four otlier voyageurs, ran them, one after another, down the swift and dangerous rapids — rightly named Maligne — to the lower end of the portage, where they were again loaded, and away we all started, but had not proceeded over half a mile when another rapid appeared to view, and again the soldiers had to leave the boats and take a walk alone: the bank of the river while the voyageurs ran the boats down, with the assistance of a few of our men. Shortly after entering the boats again, we came to the wreck of a boat which was dashed to pieces in running the rapid a few months ago. There was no end to excitement and dan- ger in our course down the Maligne River, for it is a succession of rapids, and occasionally we got caught on a rock to vary our rapid progress, but we always got safely off. While making our way around one of the rapids where the majority of us had to leave the boat, one man, named John Smith, fell from a log which served us for a bridge, over a streamlet in our way, and hurt his back, yet though we sympathized with him in his misfor- tune, which was by no means serious, it was impossible not to be amused at some of his movements and remarks, for he is a very eccentric character in his way. At a distance of five miles from our camp of last night we reached Tanner's Rapids, where, in consequence of the lowness of the water, both boats and cargoes had to be taken over a short portage ; we were then kept pretty busily employed in threading our way among the rocks of the remaining four miles of this rocky and rapid river, 28 TORONTO TO FORT GARRY. up when we readied Island Portage, so called on account of the river running on each side of it. Having made this portage and partaken of lunch, we set out at 5.30 p. m , upon Lac La Croix ; after rowing a couple of miles, we were taken in tow by a tug which had overtaken us, and we now make our way rapidly through this large lake, of the appearance of which we could form no opinion on ac- count ot the darkness of the night, but we did see the lires of two large Indian camps, and as we passed close to land in one place, our guides pointed out an Indian burying ground. At midnight we reached Loon Portage, which is about 30 miles irom Island Portage, so that we have travelled to-day upwards of 40 miles and made three portages. The country through which we are now passing appears to be very similar to that throughout the route from Thund(;r Bay, though the liills appear to be much lower and the timbers a2)pcar somewhat diflferent ; we here found oak for the first time. Tliere does not apppear to have been so much snow here as on the Ileight-of-Land and several days journey this side of it, for there arc only two or three inches of snow here, while there was nearly a foot of it at the Height-of-Land. It being so late when we reached this portage, we merely unloaded our boats and pitched our tents, leaving the portaging till morning. Saturday, 4th.-— Having com|>leted the work of port- aging at 11 a. m., avc again started, and after rowing five miles, reached Mud Portage, which is considered the worst but one on the route ; being somewhat like the French Portage, which alone surpasses it in difficulty. One of No. 2 Company was seriously injured by falling, while carrying a heavy load over this portage. Half a mile beyond Mud Portage we came to another, which, from its being somewhat similar to the last, we called Little Mud, not knowing its proper name, if it has any. After com- TORONTO TO FORT «ARRY. 20 pleting the portaging and loading of the l)oats, wc took dinner, and then started at 3 p. m. down a stream we call Loon River, and had not gone for when the channel be- came so bad that all but four of us and the voyageurs had to leave the boat an bo broken through ice over an inch thick through- out tl:e last mile, where there is very little current. At the mouth of the stream a lire had been built by the men who took the land route, and as soon as the boat arrived with the provisions, dinner was cooked and some fruitless attempts were made at drying our clothes. At o.oO p. m., we left this point and s«^t out upon Lake Nameukan, and after rowing five miles reached a narrow channel between two parts of tlie lake in wdiich there was a rapid current full of rocks ; here the cargoes had to be portaged several hundred yards, and the boats were taken through empty. At the end of three miles more, in consequence of night 32 TORONTO TO FORT GAKIIY. M 5! coming on, we ran the boats into a pretty little cove be- tween two 'nige rocks on an island, and camped on a sandy beach, where there was a good supply of wood convenient. Tiiis is the best camping ground we have yet had. There were only two boats, and their crews stopped here, part of the others being several hours ahead and the remainder as far behind. The sun showed its face from behind the clouds to-day for the first time in two wec^ks. Monday, Gth. — x\t 7.30 wo lefc Sandy Beach, as we called last night' t^ camp ground, and continued our way through Lake Nameukan, passing in several places the campgrounds of other crews, where the lire.^ were still burning, also, camps of Indians who stood on the shore watchiuLC the strange sight of boat loads of white soldiers passing by. The wind being favorable part of the time, we were able to use our sails, which was a great assist- ance. When we had rowed and sailed a distance of about 12 mileSs Ave were met by three boats filled with voya- geurs, who having accompained the expedition as far as Keltic Falls wore now returning. At one o'clock we reached Kettle Falls and portaged our cargoes, but only had to portage one boat, as there were enough at the other end already. Lake ]S'iniieukn;i, through which we passed this morning, is literally a rock-bound sheet of water, :uid I do notkuovr but I would be correct in saying that it is iron-bound, for the walls of almost unbroken rock with which it is surrounded are full of veins of iron, lead and copper. To vary the appearance of this wall of roclv, there occasionally appear to view beautiful sandy beaches, similar to that on which we camped, while the numerous islands and parts of the shore are clothed with never-ending verdure, altogether forming grand and beau- tiful scenery, even at this dreary season of the year. The water of the lake is about seven feet above hicch-water TORONTO TO FOET GARRY. 33 mark. Kettle Falls is scarcely entitled to that name when the water is so low as at present, though it no doubt deserves it ^in the spring, for a hugh semi-circle in the rock on each side of the rapid presents a kettle-like appearance, in which the water doubtless boils as in a cauldron. In searching for a reason for the name of these falls, I discovered a hole in the rocks very like the inside of a kettle, perfectly smooth, and which would probably hold about five or six gallont?. At four o'clock, the boats having loaded, a tug, which was waiting here lor us, towed us all up Rainy Lake. I was hero transferred, with 34 others, to a large and ungainly boat, of the kind used by the Hudson's Bay Company on the lakes and large rivers ; it is about 40 feet long, 8 feet beam, and 5 feet in depth. After towing us 10 miles the tug returned to Kettle Falls, in order to bo ready to bring on the re- mainder of :'ie boats, which had not arrived there when we left. We then rowed a distance of four miles, and as it had now become too dark for us to pick our way among the rocks, we camped upon an island, where there is a natural supply of good wood, and while part of the|men pitched the tents other s(iuads cut wood and built fires, and others again brought provisions from the boats and prepared supper for all. TUESDAY, 7th. — At 9 a. m., we left the island where we camped last night, and threaded our way through a per- fect labyrinth of rocks and rocky islands, in continual danger of running upon rocks, some of which were only BufRciently covered with water to hide them from the sight of our guides until the boats were almost upon them ; and, in one or two instances, they did actually strike, but, by great efforts, were soon loosened from tliat disagreeable position. In conso(pience of a very strong head-wind, we were not able to row over two miles an ho^ir, nothwith- standing our utmost eiforts. At 1.30 p. m., our fleet got 34 TOEONTO TO FOET CiAEKY I into a small bay, where tlien^ was a calm sheet of water, and having moored the boats to the sliore, wo lea}>e(l upon a broad, flat rock, which served us as a wh^rf, and found ourselves on a lovely island, wliere we immediately proceeded to prepare our mid-day meal ; and as -the sun came out bright and warm, shining upon the little groups sitting upon fallen trees and masses of rock beside pretty groves of evergreen and other trees, made us feel quite comfortable, and gave the force the appearance of a large pic-nic party ; and, in fact., being allowed more time than usual to partake of our dinner, in consequence of our com- mander expecting the tug to make its appearance with the remainder of the expedition, we were enabled to rest ourselves somewhat, and really enjoyed it much better than many a pic-nic is enjoyed ; some sitting or lying upon the groundjWhile others roamed about the island, looking at the beautiful specimens of minerals to be found among the rocks on the shore ; or getting more extended views of the lake and its Diany islands from the higher portions of this islet. From this pic-nic ground a post of the Hudson's Bay Company was visible on the distant shores of the lake, and we could distinguish several houses surrounded by neat fences, and other civilized appearances. At 2.30 p. m., a man on the high part of the island, distinguish- ed the tug in the distance, and we immediately took our departure from this pleasant stopping-place, and after rowing a few miles were overtaken and taken in tow by the tug, which had already in charge the boats which had been left behind. After getting the assistance of the tug, we made much bettor progress. Having run short of wood a stop was made at an island covered with a heavy growth of timber for the purpose ol getting a fresh supply. While here one of the nion found a knife belong- ing to the former military expedition. Making another start at 5 p. m., we made good progress till 7, when wo TORONTO TO FORT GAEEY. 35 reached Itainy River, and in a short time came to a rapid, when the order was given for all men, except enough to man the oars, to lie down in the bottom of the boats while they were run down. There was then a roaring rushing sound for a few seconds, and a feeling of being thrown rapidly through the air, and we were once more in smooth water; but did not travel far before coming to another rapid place, down which we made our way in a similar manner, to find ourselves, at 8 p. m., of a dark night, at the landing-place of Fort Frances ; and, shouldering our knapsacks and blankets, we soon found our way to the camp-ground, Avhere those of our comrades who were in advance had already pitched their tents, and as quickly as possible we followed their example — cooked our supper, and got between our blankets for our much needed night's rest. Wednesday, 8th. — Being aroused at an early hour this morning, we were immediately set to work at portaging, and beside our stores we portaged a tug and one of the large boats of the Hudson's Bay Company. At ten o'clock a. ra., our tents were struck, the boats laden, and Ave were all ready for starting, but had to wait for the tugs, of which there are now three. While waiting for these somewhat tardy assistants to our locomotion, we had an opportunity to look about us and take observa- tions of Fort Frances and its surroundings. The Fort itself is merely a stout oaken fence, enclosing a few block- houses, and within a few hundred yards of it are several other houses. .Fust above the falls and about a quarter of a mile from the fort, a number of men were at work build' iiors for TIainy Lake and tiie Lake of the Woods, the engines for which are now lying at Prince Arthur's Landing; these steamers, together with the tugs on the smaller lakes and tiie improvements to be made on the portages, will make this route much pleas- .36 TORONTO TO FORT GARRY. ■■I anter as well as more useful next year. Fort Frances is a great resort for the Indians, of whom as many as four or five thousand sometimes gather there, but at present there are only about fifty. One thing which much interested me was the Indian buryingground, or rather, place of en- tombment ; for the dead can scarcely be said to be buried when the coffin is suspended in the air, six feet above the ground, each being sustained by four stout stakes. In these coffins are placed not only the corpse but the weap- ons, and often a part of any other valuables of which the deceased may have been the possessor. Another object of interest was the falls, which are 23 feet high, and rush over the rocks in one fine broad sheet about 100 feet in width. The position of Fort Frances, in a fertile tract of country, at the head of a magnificent and beautiful river which is swift enough to furnish an almost unlimited water power, and in the viciuty of one of the richest mineral regions of the world, will doubtless make it a place of no small importance within a few years. So rich and fertile is tho soil on the banks of Rainy River, that on the farm which is here cultivated by the Hudson's Bay Company officials, wheat has been grown on the same land for 20 years, and it is said that it still produces up- wards of 30 bushels to the acre. This fertile tract varies in width from half a mile to eight miles, and back of it is swampy land, much of which may be utilized in the dis- tant future, when land becomes a more valuable commod- ity in this central portion of our continent. At 1 o'clock, or a little after, we finally got started, and ran rapidly down this lovely winding river without anything of interest occuring uutil 7 p. m., when our boats were drawn up on the shore, fires lit, and supper prepared and eaten, after which a few betook themselves to their tents, while others, who either did not possess tents or preferred open- air sleeping, merely wrapped themselves in their blankets TORONTO TO FOKT GAKRY. 37 a and slept with their feet to the lire, having the blue vault of heaven for a canopy. Thursday, 9th. — Started at 7.30 a.m., and after a steady run of three hours reached Manitou Rapids, down which we went without unloadins: the boats and without i;.5ssed an Indian camp, and mishap. We occasionally some of the inhabitants freq" uitly paddled out towards us; but Indians, canoes and wigwams are now no novelty to us, and very little attention is paid to them. These Indians are dark, savage-looking men, witli very little appearance of civilization about them ; they do not ap- pear to have much awe for our steam tugs at present, although I was told by a man who has been on the route two or three years, that when the tugs first made their appearance the Indians gathered up their blankets and ran away into the forest with shrieks of affright. Judg- ing by the countenance of these fellows and the sheath knives and hatchets which they all carrv. it would not be a safe place for unarmed men to travel in small numbers at all eventis. At 11.30, the Longue Sault or Long Rapids were reached, and here the majority of the force left the boats and took a foot-path along the banks of the river about two miles, being by no means reluctant to do so, for we beacame quite chilled and cramped in the boats. Our march led us through some fine prairie land, in some parts of which the Indians grow their corn or maize, the stalks of which ^ve saw still standing ; we also saw some fine oak timber, the finest hardwood in fact which has greeted my eyes for many days ; in other places we passed through fields of wild pease of a large and luxuriant growth In passing through some of the Indian encampments during this march, many of the men bought fish, for which they paid tobacco, needles or small pieces of money. There is some fine scenery about these rapids, and it added not a little to the charm and interest of these scenes to see 38 TORONTO T0 FORT GARRY. canoe loads of Indians or squaws making their way safely amid the foam and rocks, where the river dashes wildly over its rugged bed, their frail crafts looking unsafe even for calm water, but proving to be qualified for most dan- gerous positions when guided by the paddle in the skilful hands of these deni.ens of the forest. At the foot of the rapids, the boats were moored long enough to give all hands an opportunity to get dinner. While moving down this large and beautiful river, bright visions of the future would float through the mind, and to fancy's eye there appeared comfortable farm houses in place of tlie wretched wigwams now scattered along the banks, while bi'oad fields of waving, yellow grain and herds of sleek cattle replaced the prairie grass and the wild beasts of the forest. At intervals, a thriving village or a populous town with busy factories engaged in the manufacture of var- ious articles for the use of the mining population of the mineral reg^ions which surround this fertile tract, took the place of the Indian villages, and instead ot a few birch- bark canoes flitting up and down the river, busy fleets of boats of stronger build and propelled by more powerful forces than paddles in the hands of the red man. I thought of the time in fact when the shrieks of the steam whistle which have already caused the Indian to start with affright shall become not only weekly but a daily occur- rence ; when the civilization, energy and refinement of the white man shall have replaced the rudeness, indolence and ignorance of the red man of tl\e forest, and driven still further to the west, or perhaps christianized and civilized him, thereby fitting him for a greater degree of happiness in this world and eternal and perfect happiness in the world to come. While such thoughts as these were passing through the mind, an exclamation was heard of it See that scalp hanging beside the wigwam yonder ! TORONTO TO FORT GAKRV. n^ Tills cry drew the altGiition of all towards the above, and called forth the questions "Where?" and "On which side of the river?" to which the first speaker replied, pointing in the direction. " On the American side, just at the mouth of that little creek ; don't you see two wigwams together, and a scalp lianging from a pole beside one of them ? " Gazing on the bloody trophy of Indian warfare, the fact was forced painfully upon the mind that many a tragic and bloody scene may be witnessed on these banks ere these glorious dreams shall be realized. At 8 o'clock p. m., we reached a fort of the Hudson's ]5ay Company, near the mouth of the river, and which is known as Hungry Hall, but the proper name of which is Pointe aux Pins. Having eaten supper, the majority of us spread our blankets by the fires which had been kind- led, and were soon buried in a sound sleep, only to be aroused again near midnight and proceed on our journey ; but after going three miles further, we drew our boats up on a barren, sandy is]a;ul, not being able to go further on account of the roughness of the lake, our tugs not being able to withstand a heavy sea. A few tents were pitched here, but the greater number of us were content with the protection of our blankets and a few bushes, which pre- vented the wind blowing upon us in full force. Friday, Nov. 10th. — The lake being still very rough this morning, the engineers were not willing to venture out with our frail steam crafts, and we were compelled to remain upon the island imtil sunset, employing the time in cooking, talking about the probabilities of getting away during the day, telling stories, and in keeping up good fires — the driftwood on the shores furnishing an ample supply of fuel. Preparations were also made to spend another night on this island, getting the tents well pitched, wood cut, etc., having given up all hope of leaving to- 40 TORONTO TO FORT QAR RY. day ; but about sundown our commander, having become too impatient of the delay to remain any longer, orders were given to proceed, -which were obeyed with alacrity by us, though the engineers m ere not so anxious to move. After proceeding some five or six miles, however, we were obliged to again come to a stop, the tugs beiug in constant danger of being swamped ; some of the men were quite sick from the roughness of the water, and others seemed terror-struck ; one man felt so miserable during this short voyage that he desired to be thrown overboard by his comrades, though it is probable that he would liave been been more anxious to be taken in again had they acceded to his request. Our stopping place this time is a rocky islet, partially covered with elm and scrub oak ; a part of the force have pitched their tents on the shore among the* rocks, and the remaindei* of us are trying to make our- selves comfortable in the boats, but not with much suc- cess. Saturday, 11th, — The lake having become quite calm, we started at 1 a. m., leaving the tugs to provide them- selves with a fresh supply of fuel. Having rowed about seven miles and broken through a great deal of ice in that distance, we drew up for breakfast on an island much like the one at which w^e had stopped last night, being like it clothed principally with scrub oak, though there was some pine. We were here met by Col. W. O. Smith, Dep.- Adj. -General of No. 10 District, from some of whose party we learned that a report had gone homo from Fort Garry to the eflect that we had been frozen in above Fort Frances, and that he had come to provide assistance in the remainder of our journey. Alter breakfast nearly all the boats again set out without the tugs, which had come up in the meantime ; but a few had to remain in order that the men might cut a good supply of fuel. At length, however, all were oDf, and wo soon found ourselves in a TORONTO TO FORT (JA.RRY. 41 heavy sea again, in which there was so much danger to the tugs that a man sat in the bow of each boat with an axe in his hand ready to cut the towing-line in the event ol" our little steamers sinking, so that thoy miglit not drag us down with them. It seems strange that pleasure should be felt on such occasions as this, yet true it is that there appears to be more enjoyment derivable from a position of peril and constant watchfulness than from a season of calm when everything moves in a safe and un- eventful manner. Having passed an exciting day, and one full of fear for some of the more timid among us, another camp was formed upon an exceedingly rocky island, about twenty-five miles from the North- West angle of the Lake of the Woods. 1'he Lake of the Woods, across one end of which we have been passing during the past few days, is a large and shallow lake full of rocks and islands, and very liable to storms which very quickly raise a heavy sea ; the islands and shores of the lake appear to be prin- cipally composed of white glittering sand and a light colored rock, Avliich look in the distance like huge banks of snow. Sunday, 12th. — At 8 a. m. this morning, a start was again made without the tugs, and after rowing three or four miles, we found ourselves surrounded by floating ice, through which we made our way with some difficulty a distance of about a mile, when we reached firm, unbroken ice, through which the leading boat cut a passage in which the others followed ; but such poor progress was made in this way that when noon arrived, but a very short distance had been made. We then stopped at an island, leaped out, and quickly lit our fires and proceeded to cook our dinner, or what had to answer for that meal, though not a very substantial meal for men working hard, for our provisions are now running short, and we have been living for several days on slap-jacks and salt pork, our hard-tack 42 TORONTO TO KOKT OAURY. having entirely failed ; the «l:ii)-j.acks are made by mixing flour and water into a paste or batter, without salt, and frying them in lat. As Ave have noiLhor a great deal of time nor a large sui)|)ly of frying-pans, our tin platrs are brought into service for that purpose, and as many of the plates have been lost on the way, it is no unconnnon thing to see a man mix the Hour and water into a dough stiff enough to hang on a foiked stick, which lie holds over the lire, thus cooking his bread; the ''staft' of life" being ready, a piece of the fat pork is cooked in the same man- ner, and of these the soldier makes his scanty meal, wash- ing the whole down with a vile decoction dignified with the name of tea ; but as " hunger furnishes the best sauce," even this rough and unattractive fare is eaten with a relish, and is accompanied Avith a cheerful and jocular conversation, varied sometimes by grumbling remarks and frequently by some very profane language. While we were preparing and enjoying this frugal meal, our assistants {^) the tugs, came up, and having attached a slight armor- plating of sheet iron, undertook to break a way lor us through the ice, and we followed in the opening thus made ; but after making our Avay in this manner a couple of miles, the whole fleet again came to a standstill, and we finally disembarked among the rocks at a distance of about twelve miles from the North- West Angle> and within sight of a large Indian village, between us and which is the now frozen inlet of the Lake of the Woods. Here the tugs and other boats wore draAvn up on the beach, and preparations made for leaving them till spring. On land- ing we immediately pitched our tents and prepared to spend the coming night and perhaps several days and nights in this desolate place, which the men have named Hungry Island. Having thus made ready for the night, our arms and accoutrements w^ere removed from the cases in which they have hitherto been carried, and every man provided with his complete set of arms and accoutrements, TORONTO TO VOKV «iARRV. 43 rr (i ■(' (>• ir with which we again betoc> ourselves to our tents and our fires, and employed the remainder of tlie day in removing the rust which liad gathered during the past three weeks. The weather has turned warmer tliis al"teriio(>n, and it is now raining heavily, wliidi gives us some laint hopes that the ice may yet clear away sufliciently to permit us to make our way through, though it is by no means a likely contingency. Monday, li>Lh — The morning was spent in cleaning our arms and accoutrements, and in discussing tlie proba- bility of our marching in the afternoon, a question wliich was settled for us about noon, when orders were given for us to be ready to march in hali-an-hour in lieavy marching order, with our blankets and oil sheets rolled, and sixty rounds of ball cartridge in our pouches. As the greater portion of the Quarter-master's stores had to be left behind a guard was detailed to remain in charge of them. Having made a very scant meal of slap-jacks and fat pork in a half-cooked state, we set out for the North-west Angle at one o'clock ; our march led us through half-frozen marslies, in which we were contin\i al- ly sinking over the ankles, and over smooth, slippery ice, against a strong and pierchig cold wind, the ice being so thin that we were obliged to march in single file at inter- vals of from 5 to 10 paces, which gave the force the ap- pearance of a skirmish line taking ground to its right or left. Even with tl :,a precaution several men broke throuoh, but were soon assisted out bv their comrades : the smoothness of the ice and the strength of the wind frequently caused some of us to lose our footi ig, and the fall being accelerated by the burden of nearly one hnndred pounds which each man carried, many a bruise and sprain was the result. At length, at 5 p. m., our hearts were gladdened with the welcome sight of the shanties at the 44 TORONTO TO FOUT (lARUY. Angle, aud in a short time we h^ ^ a number of largo fires, throwing their flames towanls the skies, to guide and cheer our comrades in tlieir toilsome march, as well us to keep us warm and comfortable at'ler our twelve mile tramp ; and it ♦.ould have rei|uireut his blanket in a good positioH near the fire. " Guess he stopped to make another slap-jack," said a third, while he prepared a piece of beef for his supper. But while such remarks, some serious, some jocular, were being made, one who had hitherto said nothing, broke out with : — " I heard one of th(5 officers tel' him to remain behind us, and assist another man to carry a tent, and perhaps he has been kept there with the guar 3," and so our minds were set at rest on that subject for iho present. The hopes we entertained last night of having mild weather were destroyed before morning, it having tunied very cold during the night, and when we awoke this morning the snow was lying about »ur heads in the tents having been blown under the curtains, which had not been fastened down very tightly, and our blankets were frozen stiff, and it had been freezing hard all day ; but there is now a beautiful clear sky, as well as a clear, cold air. Tuesday, Nov. 14, LSTl — Having packed our arms, ac- coutrements, knapsacks and blankets in ox-carts provided for that purpose, we hurriedly prepared for the march. The carts in which the arms, etc., are stored, are theoften- heard-of Red-River carts, made without iron in any form, not even a nail, and each is drawn by one ox, harnessed with rudely made harness of untanned cow-hide. There had also been provided a number ot horses and Avaggons in the proportion of one to every sixteen men, in which we were to take turns at riding, eight at a time. Just ?s the detachment to which I belong was marching away, a man who had been attacked with bleeding at the lungs, was carried by on a stretcher, looking like a corpse. Our 46 TOEONTO TO FORT GAKRY. road lay through a swampy country Jiiost of the day, being a fine, smooth, level road, which would do credit to an old settled country. The forest on either side of this x'oad appears to have been overrun with fire through- out the first six miles, whicli gives it a very desolate ap- pearance. After riding in an open waggon six miles, tho.se of us who had be(Mi ordered into the leading wag- gon at the start, were very glad to resign our seats to other eight, for the ^old, frosty air lind completely chilled us, and Ave enjoyed very much a good sharp walk for the next six miles, wiien the men wlio had relieved us in the waggon desired to change places with us again, just after we had passed a, shanty which is in charge of two men Avho came up on the first expedition, and who furnished us with tci. At a distance of eighteen miles from the North-west Angle, and at about noon we reached a shanty where we expected to get dinner, but found ourselves mistaken, for there were no provisions there for us. Having become tired of riding in open waggons this cold weather, a number of us concluded to continue our march on foot during the remainder of the day. Our road from this point was through more open country than before ; in one place we passed through a muskeg or prairie-like marsh, being a dry prairie at present, but a marsh at some seasons of tlie year. The road is raised above the levi-I of this and gravelled, which secures a hard, dry route at all seasons. I*rairie-fowl and partridge were pi'jniiful on all l,.)nds, and did not appear to be alarmed at our .ipproacli, but sat y three o'clock in the altcrnoon avc reached our camp ground, on the borders of a cedar swamp, having marched twenty-four miles. Our supply of water is drawn from holes in the swamp, and is far from being the best we have had during our journey, and we would have been glad to have had such a place to draw water from as the holes in the ice on White Mud (^reek, but that would have been too short a march for us. Thursday, November 10 VA; had an early start again this morning and soon lound ourselves passing through small stretches of I'r.iirie land abounding with v/ild fowl, 48 TORONTO TO FORT GARRY. and in some places very stony, while gravel beds are very frequently ^passed through, furnishing an abundance ol that material for the road. BetAveen these small prairies are strips of wooded land, the wood being chiefly oak and poplar, giving the country quite a different appearance from that through which we passed i)reviously, and which was principally covered with evergreens. Just at dusk of evening we came in sight of the settlement of Pointe de Chene, or Oak Point, in which there are some s^ixty or seventy dwellings, and in a short time our tents were pitch- ed on the banks of a large stream, which furnished us with an ample supply of good water, when we had cut holes in the ice. During the afternoon it began to snow heavily, and the ground is now covered to a depth of seven or eight inches Avith a fleecy mantle, while the falling snow makes everything damp and cold. After pitching our tents and lighting the fires, representatives from the differ- ent squads made their way to a store which we had dis- covered in the vicinity of our camp, where purchases of groceries and vegetables Avere made ; among other things bought of this pioneer merchant, Avho, by the way, is a French Canadian, was a quantity of milk, frozen solid, and Avhich Aras sold in cakes, Avhich Avhen melted made about four ([uarts each, and it looks odd to see milk car- ried in a solid state in the hands or in a bag. The South- eastern ""boundarv of the Province of Manitoba is someAvhere in this neighborhood, and we are noAV Avithin the bounds of that Province, and camped on ihe border of one of its vast prairies. Each day's march seems to be shorter than the previous one no^v, the distance travelled to-day being tAventy-tbrce miles, but Ave must sto}) where water is convenient. Fridaa', Xovcmber 17. — Awakened this morning at an early hour to find the snow still falling and a fierce cold Avind piling it into drifts and driving it into every hole TOEONTO TO FOET GAJSET. 49 and corner ; and as we marched off across the prairie we had an opportunity of learning the effect, or at all events the feeling caused by the wind on a traveller on the open prairie with the thermometor far below zero, and it was far from being cither pleasant or easy work to march through new-fallen snow against a strong head wind on an unbeaten road ; but hard as it was many preferred it to riding in waggons where we would be suffering from cold. This affords us an opportunity of forming some faint conception of the sufferings endured by the French soldiers under Napoleon I. during the retreat from Moscow, and if we find this hard, uncomfortable, and even danger- ous, well provided for as we are, how much more must it have been the case with them, without any proper prepar- ation, and chased by a violent enemy ; and we cannot wonder at the fact that only one-tenth of his vast host ever returned to La belle Frai:oD. At times, when very tired, we would take a few moment's rest in the shelter of the clumps of trees whi3h were occasionally met with, but were glad to move on again very soon. At about five in the evening the main portion of our force reached the place selected for the camp, after marching seventeen miles. We pitched our tents in a small wood beside a farmhouse on a well-stocked farm belonging to an elderly French Canadian. In the sheds and about the hay-stacks are to be seen a large number of fine looking cattle and a fine flock of sbeep, while at one side of the house I observ- ed a reaper and mower, as well as several other of the implements which modern inventive genius has furnished as assistants in agricultural toil ; and altogether there was an air of comfort and plenty which was quite charming to wearied, half-frozen and hungry soldiers, who have the prospect of spending the bitter and stormy night with no protection but damp, poorly pitched tents. The roll of the different squads being called, it was found that several men were missing, and some of the strongest and least fatigued were sent out in search of them j and being sucess- 50 TORONTO TO TORT GARllY, ful in performing their mission , brought in some poor stragglers, who, in all probability, would otherwise have slept their last sleep to-night on a softer bed than they have occupied during the past few weeks, and have had the pure white snow for winding-sheets ; and where the only requiem over their lonely resting-place would have been the howling of the fierce northern wind as it sweeps over the broad prairie. Even as it is, one man is so badly frozen that it is doubtful whether he will recover. When we had pitched our tents, lighted our fires and prepared fuel for the purpose of keeping our fires well supplied during the night, we addressed ourselves to the occupa- tion of preparing the evening meal; and while busily employed at that work some oiie exclaimed, " Here is John Thom," and looking up, Ave saw the full, pleasant countenance of the comrade who was missing at the North- west Angle. Of course he was immediately assiled with a number of questions ; but some one more practical than the rest of us, said " Give the man his supper before you bother him with so many questions." And being sup- plied with the materials whereof to make a hearty meal he answered the questions propounded to him as he dis- posed of the provisions set before him. " Where have you been all the weekV '' was the first question. " You recollect,'' faid lie, "■ when wc were ready to march from Hungry Island across the ice, that an ofiicer called me out of the ranks ; well, he ordered the bugler of ISTo. 2 Company and nie to leave our array, accoutre- ments and knapsacks iu charge of the guard which was to be left there, and to oarry a tent across to the North- west Anglo. H:iviiig if,'()t llic tv nt ;ind Ktarted, we found ourselves far behind the iv-^t ol" you, but followed in your trail as well as possible ; at hai avc came to a creek running into tlie main channel, which 1 suppose your emem- ber crossing, but instead of crossing it we Ibllowed it up into the wood some distnuce, but at length (included TOEONTO TO POET GAERT. 51 that we were taking the wrong path and started back ; as it had become quite dark by this time, however, we decided to remain all night. We therefore built a fire and made a bed of the tent, so as to spen.d the night as comfortably as possible. During the evening we heard several shots fired by other parties who had lost their way, but saw no one till morning, when we met some voyageurs, who told us the proper way to go." " " You must have been pretty hungry by the time you got to the Angle, unless you had more to eat than the rest of us on Monday." " Oh, we got some pemmican from the voyageurs, which we cooked and had a capital breakfast." *' But how did you catch up to us so soon ? " " We got into the North-west Angle just a little while after you had all left, and found the paymaster and one or two others there. He told us to remain till next day and come with him, which we did, and we have driven fast, having come forty miles to-day." After a few other questions and answers about his adventure, of course he had to hear our account of the time since leaving him, then the remainder of the evening was spent partly in vain attempt to keep dry and warm and in listening to stories told by some who were gifted with the ability to relate those enliveners of lonely places, and prominent among those was our friend '' Dodger," who, having spent several years at sea, is possessed of the proverbial yarn-spinning ability of Bailors. Saturday, Nov. 18.— Our march to day was but a repetition of that of yesterday, toiling through the snow with the wind blowing in our faces, while the themome- tcr marked, as I have been told, whether correctly or not [ cannot say, 23° below zero. When we had marched about twelve miles we were met by two men in a cutter, who handed bottles of liquor to all who would accept tliereof, and I am sorry to tay the majority seemed to be 52 TORONTO TO FOBT OAEEY. willing enough to take it, and in a Bhort time many of the men began to show the effects of it. This was the first time any liquor was obtained since leaving Thunder Bay, and there can be no doubt that it was a fortunate thing for the expedition that such was the case, for had it been otherwise it is almost certain that there would have been some serious accidents to deplore, for men undergoing the hardships unavoidable in such an expedition as this, and exposed as we were to to inclemencies of the seasofr would have found it hard to resist the temptation to use stimulants had they been obtainablu. About noon we came in sight of the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St Boniface, and about the same time the wind died away, and the sky cleared off" and the sun came out bright and pleasant. Having reached the cathedral we were halted, put on our accoutremcrts, which had been in the cart, and marched off in fours to the Red River, a distance of a few hundred yards, and were marched across the river in small squads lor fear that the ice would break if the entire force should cross at once. After crossing the Red River and the Assiniboinc, which joins it just where the road crosses, we ascended the northern banks of the Assiniboinc, and were greeted by the band of the fore previously stationed in the fort, playing the '' British Grenadiers ; '' and as each squad .rrived in front of Fort Garry it was halted until the whole force had arrived, when we were formed into a three sides of a square, and an address from the citizens of Winnipeg, welcoming us to Maninoba, was read to ua, and a suitable reply made by Col. Smith. After the conclusion of this conventional ceiemony we were marched into Fort Garry, and having been dismissed, soon cstablishcil ourselves in our new (quarters, where a warm dinner of meat, potatoes and bread Avas served up to us at 2 p. m. In the evening many of us found our way to the town of Winnipeg, which, though the capital city of Manitoba, would be considered a mere village in Ontario ; here there was a TORONTO TO FORT GARRY. 53 great demand for what the *' boys " call a " square meal," aud the hotels, eating-houses and saloons were kept busy for a few hours in sujjplying their demands. Sunday, ISToy. 19.— This being our first Sunday in barracks, and it being considered desirable to allow us to have a little rest, no church parade was ordered for to- day, but all who chose were allowed to go to church, a privilege which many of us gladly accepted, and at 10.30 a. m. attended the several churches of our choice, being well pleased to have an opportunity of spending another Sabbath in a Christian manner, and of singing the praises of God and listening to the exposition of His Word. At nine o'clock this morning fifty men and two officers belonging to the Quebec Campany, were marched away to the Stone Fort, a distance of twenty miles ; and fifty more men from one of tlie companies will leave for Pem- bina some time during the coming week. To-morrow we will begin the regular round of duties of soldiers in quarters. So ends a short but eventful chapter in the life of a Canadiau soldier, for with barrack life will corn- commence a new and more monotonous poruou of that history, with the same dreary round of duties and few changes of scene and few incidents to interest and occupy the mind, the arrival of mails from home being the onlyjinteresting event perhaps for weeks. FORT GARRY. On the northern bank of the Assiniboine River, and about live hundred yards from its junction with the Red River, stalls the much talked of and much written of Fort Garry. The fort itself is a rectangular structure, 00 yards in width by 180 in length, having circular bastions built of limestone at the south-ea<»t and south-west corners, and one in the centre of each of the two side walls ; these bastions, which at one time formed the four coruers of the 54 TORONTO TO FORT GARRY. fort — it having been originally a square— arc pierced with port-holes for artillery and loop-holes for small arms, and are connected by a stone wall twelve feet high and be- tween two and three feet in thickness, while the east and west sides have been extended to double their original length, the additional piece of wall having been built of squared oak timber, as was also the new northern wall. Over the north gate is a square tower, also pierced for both guns and small arms, and over it waves the flag of the l^ritish Empire. Entering the fort by the southern g«te, we find directly in front of us the bi.lldiLg occupied as officers' quarters ; immediately *.o our left and against the south wall are the guardhouse, orderly room, and ser- ^,;ants' mess, and down the western side are four long two-story buildings, built for storehouses, two of which are now used as barracks ; between these and the wall are several smaller buildings, used for cook-house, bake-house, etc. On the east side are several more storehouse?, a retail store, and the residences ot the Governor of the fort and other Hudson's Bay Company officials ; in the centre are the offices of the Hudson's Bay Company and the engine-house ; near the northern end, and facing the north gate, is the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of tlie Province of Manitoba. In the barrack square, in front of the officers' quarters, are a number of field guns of diflTer- ent calibre, and several garrison gu^is and mortars, svhich, with the piles of shot and shell lying about, aod the sentries pacing their beats in difierent directions, give the place and scene a truly military appearance, whicn is still further enhanced at times by the mounting cf gi/arda or tho drilling of the various squads or companies of soldiers^ Taking our stand upon the walls of the fort and looking toward the norih, we see the town of Winnipeg, standing on the bank of the Red River, aboi-t a mile from the fort . -. . . . '' it is a very compact and business-like pince, eontai'?ing about a hundred houses, nearly all of which are used as places of business, and 'laving a population somewhat less FORT GARRY. 55 h d 1 than a thousand. It contains three churches — one Church of England, one Methodist, and one Presbyterian— three printing offices, from which are issued four weekly papers, three of ihem English and one French ; and a great num- ber of hotels and saloons. The streets of the town are good in winter and in dry weather, but in wet weather they become exceedingly bad, and as there are no side- walks, pedestrians have to walk through oceans of mud and water in passing from one part to another. Half a mile beyond Winnipeg is the village of Point Douglas; and along the bank of the river beyond that is a line of houses, churches and windmills, farther than the range of our vision, looking like one continued village. Turning our eyes to the east and south-east we see the Cathedral of St. Boniface, the Archiepiscopal Palace, Col. lege. Hospital, Orphan Asylum, and other church buildings of the Roman Catholic Parish of St. Boniface ; and far away up the Re»i»ir wwWN*fli!»P*>!!iHBB 't LIFF. ly rURTlACKS. n9 on other groundH, for wliile there is tiino for thought there is very little time for connected thought, since the attention is continually drawn away and diverted from any subject on which tho mind may be >!T\elling, by tho duties of hi:^ position :vu\ tho <'(/rt?tnnt watchfulness required. •*'' The guard having been duly inspecled, is marched oft" \o relieve tho old guard, and after going through the long formula prescribed for relieving of guards, the old guard is marched away to be inspected by the " orderly officer of the day," and are dismissed, and are not liable for any parade or duty till noon. At 10 at) the " fall in " for drill is sounded and there is an hour's drill again. The " prisoners' call " goes at 12 noon, when any m(!n Avho have been confined in the guard room for any infrac- tion of military rules, Avith the ovidcnce lor and against them, are marched to the orderly room where they are "told oil'" or tried by the commanding officer, when; they are awarded various punishment?, according to the number of times they have appeared there before, or the degree of the " crime ;" for the first offence or a simple " crime " he may be only " admonished," but if he has " been up " several limes it is very likely *' seven days confined to bnrracks," or " fourteen to barracks ;" if for drunkenness, he may be fined, and for some oflences he will receive " three days to cells," or even as many as seven days to cells ; if it be a very serious crime, he will probably be remanded for a court martial, and be awarded by it from seven to for'^y-two days solitary confine- ment ; during the time a man is confined in the cells his pay is forfeited and he is kept at work. As 12.45 is the ''first dinner call," at 12.55 the "orderly corporals," and at 1 p. m. the ' second dinner call," at each of which th'^ nuie programme is gone through with as at breakfast. The " dress for parade " sounds again at 1.80, and at 2 the " fall in;" at 3 the "ration bugle," when room orderlies go for the bread, meat, potatoes and r^ iP ' 60 TORONTO T» FOBT GARRY. groceries for their companies, which, with the exception of the bread, they t'lke to the cookc. The drill ends at .■].;J0, and there is nothing further to be done except clean up or read or write, according to fancy, till 4.45, when the " first tea bugle "sounds, "orderly corporals" at 4.55, and "second tea call " at 5 o'clock. The " retreat," a very pretty bugle call, is sounded at sundown, a warning call, named the *' quarter-bugle," having sounded fifteen minutes before ; the picket are inspected by the " officer of the day" at "retreat," and if they are not required are dismissed to their rooms till "last post." Mon not on duty Lave the evening to themselves from tea-time till " first post," and may leave quarters if he is not on the " list" of defaulters or sick ; " iirst post " is sounded at 0. p. m. in winter, and at 9.30 in summer, .uid tifteen minutes previous the "quarter bugle " or " drummers' call " is sounded ; half an hour after " first post " is '' l.-ist post," when the picket have to parade again, aud any men who are absent without a "pass" are made prisoners on their return and are punished next day ; fifteen minutes after " last post," the bugle sounds " lights out," when all lights have to be oxtHjgnished, dampers on stoves arid all the men in bed. On Saturday the ordinary routine is somewhat varied l>y a " kitfinspection " at 10.;30 instead of the ordinary parade, and medical inspection at 2 p. m. Sunday differs from th„ other days in having only one parade, " church parade," in the morning, when all the men not on duty ?re marched to the respective churches of their choice. At irregular intervals every day and evening, between other calls, may be licard the " defaulters' call," when the itien who have b(?en sentenced to confinement to barracks by the commanding ofticer have to answer a roll call by the Regimentai Orderly Sergeant, and receive extra punishment if absent. ■■"^jm when i" at 61 ■"^S IN CAMP. The Provisional Battalion (made up of the men of the second expedition and the re-cnlisted men of the 1st Ontario and 2nd Quebec Rifles) marched from Fort Garry at 11 a. m. on Tuesday, June 11th, leaving a guard with two sentries to keep watch, and marched about a mile up the Assiniboine River, to the point where it is joined by Colony Creek and there formed their camp for the summer. On the march, the battalion was headed by the excellent band, and in advance the tame black bear marched along ' as if his trade Avere to lead a regiment. The camp is situated in a very pleasant and healthy position, and though it is somewhat disagreeable in wet weather, yet we enjoy ourselves very well when it is dry. One great drawback is, that as guards have to be mounted at both ihe camp and the fort duties are very heavy, and each duty man has to go on guard once in three or four days. The camp being on the bank of the river (which at this part has a very strong current), bathing and SAvim- ming vvere very much in vogue ; but on Thursday, June 'i7th, as several of the men Avere swimming, one of thcm^ Corporal Charles Dumas, was suddenly seized with a cramp and sank to rise no more as a living man. His body was not found till Saturday evening, when it rose to the surface and floated down to the bridge opposite the fort, where it was stopped and taken out. On Sunday, 30th, at 11 a. m., he was buried in the church- yard of the St. Boniface Cathedral, with military honors, in the midst of a heavy storm of rain. The coflin, sur- mounted by his cap, belt and sword, was placed upon a nine-pounder field gun and drawn by two ])o\v(Tiul horses. while the band played that grandly solemn piece of music the " Dead march in Saul," and all the men of the battalion not on duty followed. Tlie funeral service liaving been performed over his body, the firinu;- party fired three volleys in the air, and the Avhole force returned to camp, leaving the body of the first man of the second IN" CAMP. 62 expedition who has died in the service, and vi^ith tho expresBed hope that he may be the last. We have in our camp quite a menagerie of animals, including a, black bear, a wolf, two foxes, several cats, a lamb, a go'dhet and nearly forty dogs of every size, age and variety, and we are on tlie look-out for a moose, a deer and a badger, when wo think thnt our collection will be about complete. But in spite of all the attract lomt of a military life, the beautiful stream, and strawberry covered prairie sur- rounding us, all are anxiously awaiting the time when we shall be free to return to oar distant eastern homes if we choose, for though a quite time in barracks or camp, or the hard work of marching through a wild country in a wintry season does not bring so much glory as accrues to the soldier described by Shakespeare in his " As you like it," " When the fierce soldier, beartled like the paid, Jealous in honor, sudden and quick in quarrel, Seeking the bubble reputation even in the cannon's mouth." yet there is probably as much to weary him, and far less to interest and incite on to renewed and continued military service, So much is this tho case that even the hard work, danger and excitement incident to the march from Thunder Bay to this place was enjoyed by many more than the quiet, dreary and monotonous state of existence passed in barracks during the winter months. 7.. /u ^ ^'t 'i(C^ i Camp Absiniboine, July 1872. RANK AND NAMES OF OFFICERS AND MEN OF THE EXPEDITION. STAFF : Capt. Thos. Scott, in command of the Expedition. Capt. W. B. Morris, Paymaster. Capt. Edward Armstrong, Quartermaster. Sfegbon D. Codd. No. I Company. Capt. Thos. Scott Lieut. Hayter Reed Ensign W. H. Nash Scrgt. -Major John Chinner Quartermaster-Sergt. Joseph Somerville Paymaster's-Sergt., James McKay Hospital-Sergt., Montagu Banks Scrgt. W, S. Volume " W. H. Means " Wm. Kelloch " Harland Wright " George Adshead Corpl. Thos. Baker " Tames Dunn " Wm. Garvin " George Connor " Thos. Tweed Adams, Samuel Allen, George Amandus, Fred Annabel, M. Beatty, George Beers, Edmund Bond, Jj-mes Booth, John Brown, Henderson Buchanan, G. Cale, John H. Caldwell, — Campbell, Duncan Campbell, James Campbell, Peter Carey, John Clelland, Peter Coombs, Owen Cook, John Crusoe, F. Crow, SaimMel * < Crawford, Alexandei Currey, Ansen Cavidson, GeorRe Duperanzelle, — Dunlop, Robert Elliott, Walter Falls, Robert Fawcett, Albert Forbes, Daniel Foster, Robert Galbraith, James Gale, George Gill, John Gowfand, George Gillies, John Griffin, Justus A. Griffith, Ed. Hallowell, John Hearn, Hiram Hutchinson, John Keeley, Samuel Lamond, Charles De I'Armitage Lloyd, John Lundy, George Luddington, Henry Mahoney, George Macbeth, Duncan McCumber, Alfred McLean, Pf+er McCurdy, Jai .cs McGarry, James McKenzie, P. Meagher, Augustus Meagher, Thos. Miller, Henry Moffatt, David Nelles, Sylvester Purvis, Peter Phillips, James B. Price, Joseph Renshaw, Robert Ross, James Rowsell, Edward Reeves, Edward Reynolds, J. Savage, Sidney Simpson, — Smith, John, s«n. Smith, John, jr. Sherrington, — Shepherd, John Saunders, W. H. Saunders, JoJin Telford, John J. Thompson, Duncan Thompson, George 1 Thorn, John Torrie, Arthur Turner, W. Wedge, Isaac White, Robert Wellband, W. Willoughby, P. Wilson, Thos. Wilson, Samuel Young, Douglas 64 NAMES, No, 2 CoiiPA;:i Cipt. Fletcher Lieut. George SimarH Irinsign Martineau Sergt. Geo. Mace}' I'red Aj'ltner " Alfred Desjardin " Thos. Cottinghtni " jean Guillott Corpl. Chao. Johnston " Wm. Johnston " Jan. Fullcrton " K. Bernier r'red Vogt AUoway, Charier, licaudy, Oscar Boulanger, Louis Hourke, Jame;. Brule, Jf)seph Chasse, Charles Chishoim, Wm. Collina, Alfred Curtin, Wm. Desluc, I'lric Dupont, Leon Dupras, John >'othergi"ll, John Goyer, Alex. Gordon, Wm. Gaulthier, Jean r^evesque, Vital Lord, John McCaddy, Robert McCarroil, John >f archand, A. Mitchell, Hil'jard Payette, Ulrir I'eiissier, Jean I'entland, Jamc-, Rancour, Charles Ross, Archibald KosK, James Rouledge, Napoleon Lauve, H. .Smith, Wm. Sirois. Theo. ']"ait, James Thibault, A. Thompson, j. Thompson, Char.. Tnrcotte, Sam Vincent, Louis VVahh, Michael Whittaker, Fra;i;. Heenoy, Pat AUard, F. Bailey, Jolni Ball, George Ball, Thomas >5ernier, R. Buchanan, D Carroll, M. Cornell, James Cornell, George Daily, Charles Darby, John Dumas, Charles Dawes, A. 11. Dawson, Sam Deegan, Jami;s i)obbs, Arthrr I^olphin, John England, Alfred I'razer, John Hardy. Robert II as sett, Thos. Ilosbrook, D. Hicks, John Gall, Wm. King, Charlos Langtrce, Henry Longpre, Edward Logan, Sam Mc.Nai:, R. McXcil, D. McCormitic, 'J"lii).. McGranahan, — Michand, T. Xeilson, D. Owen, 1\. Prcsho, D.a\-id Rcnand, Josep:! Roe, John R_ md, George 'J'aylor, Ernest Thorn, David Thorne. Edward Turnbull, )ohn Walmsley] D. Williamson, Joi!:i Young, fames McLean, C. II, Mulranv, '.'a; <•", •■^^^^^■^ kf >, 11 1^, GoB.O#., ^-W^ /..I :