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BY WILLIAM GILPIN, I.ATK GOVKItXOIl OP COLOH.VDO. P H I L A D E li P n I A : J. B. LIPPIXCOTT & CO. 1873. J.//,S-^"2' Entered, aceorilinj; to Act of Coii(;i'eci<, in the year ISTJ!, by WILLIAM (ill-l'IX, In the Office of tlie Liliniiiiin of I^Jii^^rc.'s at \Vii>hiii;;l()n. DeN'VEB, Juill INTRODUCTION. This voluiiu! is tlic nprodiittion nf its i)reclcceHHor, which nppcareil in IHIIO. Tiiis short interval, aitliinij;h olieciicred by war, is ilhmiinated by stupendous achievements in the direction wliithcr the encrj^ies of the people were invited. The vivacity with which hdor, intcUij^encc, and n'oderation, in concert and ulliance, march and expand in force and volume, is amazinj; and <;;lorious. Nothinjr in sijrht jiredicts any serious check to this fufal flood, on which is borne every department and detail of I'ltodUESS. The aim hcj'e is to {?rasp facts as they arc ; to reject delusions which have grown senile. No special chapter is here assigned I :> the Wcstmi Cvr<h7f<T(t (the Sierra Nevada), because its general profile, its (Jwrmal features, and its continuity are everywhere referred to and described. Much that luis been jtroposed and asked from the people in tlic former volume is now fully completed and has gone into history. J^verything else is coming w^ith assured certainty and celerity. In the former preface I have given expression fully to my faith and hopes. These I retain and repeat with fortified confidence and con- viction. Denver, .luiie 1, 187.3. CE SOME N THE CENTRAL GOLD REGION. THE GRAIN, PASTORAL, AND GOLD REGIONS OF NOETH AMERICA. SOME NEW VIEWS OF ITS PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY, AND OBSERVATIONS ON THE PACIFIC RAILROAD. BY WILLIAM GILPIN, LATE OP THE VNITED STATES ARMY. B'lUST FTJ BlilSHEX) I 3Sr I860. %^ Every Their con voluntarily half centu and policy Kcstrict as belongs energies, c of the Pa Asia. This nic its advanc l)rogress j) effect to t lilieral un expansion energies n I have suggested midst of t clear open I distinj interval w This defin( The ma gress assei PREFACE. EvERYBoiiY is acquainted with the history of the American people. Their comuionweakh, commenced at first by a few republican families voluntarily exiled from the Old World, is now, at the end of two and a half centuries, a republican empire of established continental dimensions and policy. Restricted heretofore in its development to so much of our continent as belongs to the Atlantic, a point of progress is reached, whence our energies, overflowing towards the west, expand to embrace the regions of the Pacific Ocean and establish direct and familiar relations with Asia. This movement, long in preparation, now engages so large a force that its advance daily acquires volume and celerity. Federal lejidation, to progress i^ari passu with the people, is demanded upon a basis to give effect to the great central movement resulting from their energies. A liberal understanding of the mission of our people, counsels a genial expansion of the federal system to the grandest dimensions which their energies may reach. I have condensed into a small volume, the memoranda and reflections suggested by a residence of twenty years in the wilderness : and in the midst of the pioneer people who occupy the foreground of progress, and clear open the track of empire. I distinguish, as the most essential present ground of development, tho interval which separates the ^Mississippi Basin from the Pacific Ocean. This defines itself as the "Mountain Si/steni" of our geography. The magnitude of the obstacles which it ojiposes to the forces of pro- gress assembled on its two fronts, sanctions an appeal to every form of 7 8 PliEFACE. lu'lp clisfeniiblc to the patriotic licart. This uoedcd help is, in short, the construction of tlie Continental Jiailwud. Two auspicious elements in human civilization, by their rapid j!;rowth in power and importance, fix our attention, — the indefinite multiplication of gold coin, and international jtuhlic works. These tivu elements, so operating as to mutually stimulate and sustain each other, iinmiise to enthrone im/'K^frial vr<j<iu!:.<it!on as the ruling princijile of nations. America leads the host of nations as they ascend to this new order of civilization. Her intermediate geographical position between Asia and Europe and their populations, invests lier with the powers and duties of arbiter between them. Our continent is at once a barrier which separates the other two, yet fuses and harmonizes their intercourse in all the relations from which yi^rce is absent. Human society is, then, upon the brink of a new order of arrangement, inspired by the uuiversal instincts of peace, and is about to assume the grandest dimensions. Fascinated by this vision, which I have seen appear and assume the solid form of a reality in le.xs than half a generation, I discern in it a new power, the People occupied in f/ie u-i/dmiess, engaged at once in extracting from its recesses the omnipotent element of ffold coin, and disbursing it immediately for the indnsfricd con(juest of the world. William Gilpix. Indepknde.nce, April 7, ISGO. p is, ill short, the TABLE OF CONTENTS. CIIArTER I. this new order of THE MOUNTAIN FORMATION OK NORTH AMF.RICA — TIIK (DR DIl.I.KR AS^TIIK I'l.A- TF.AU — THE NORTH AMERICAN ANDES. l\r,y. Urc'iultli— Lt-iigtli— ninck Hills— ('(HiUllcni of ilu' Sifira Mailri — (iiil,l-|iioiliuiiit; (Jninitp — Pares — I'hilcau (ilTaMo I,aiiils— Xot (.Miin|M('li('ii(U'il liy tlio Aiiiciicaii I'l'oiile — IJasiii of City iif Mi'xit'o — Molson ili Ma|piiiii — Xn iJniinago — Siona Mimbrt's — liiisin ol' llic \>v\ Nditc — lia.^in uftlio Culdiacld— Canon of the Colo- rado — liasiii of the Salt Lake — l>asin of tlio Coliiiiiliia — llasiii of !•' razor's Hivi'r — DeliciiHis Cliinatc of the I'laloau — ^Its Ki'riility — Coiilillcra of tlu' Aiiili's — Pacific .Maritiiiio Kroiit 1.') CIIArTKK II. THE CORDILLERA OF THE SIERRA MADRE — THE EASTERN CORDILLERA. LLiAM Gilpin. M'Uiitain S_\ ritom of tin- (lloln — Tlu' Andes — Tlu'ir Icnjrth. aKitmle. unci aiirilVrous vealtli — Chain of the Mollicr .Monntain — Its Uivcrs — Caiions — Mesas — liules — jlanos — liiiyoiis or Pares — Klcvation — lireadth — Wiml lUver Moiintiiin — South )ass — Tlic Alps and their ])ass — Lava IMain of Snake Kiver — liowl of the Yel- Iwstone — Plain of tlie South Pass — Sweetwater lliver — Tahle iMouutain — Pla- ors of jjolcl and |ireeious stones^Xortlu'ru Pare or Bull-iien — Favorite winter liuue of tra)i|iers — Streams, meadows, flowers, i;roves, ete. — .Middle Pare — M)uutain simrs. rocky streams, cloudy atinos|ihere, snow-clail summits — liOUfj's Puk — Southern Pare — Pike's Peak — Mountain harrier — Xo transit — liayou Pm Luis — Suhlinie scenery, luxuriant fertility, ajjricultural seasons — Valley of Cashmere — Secondary mesas, or '• LIiiuiih" — Levid surface, jioor soil, rainless atiiivsidiere — -Perjdexity of [uililic mind — Llano Kslacado and Llano of the lial- sifcta — A continual terrace — Kansas Basin 21 CHAPTER III. THE PLATEAU OF NORTH AMERICA. rts area nd chnrnetorislies — The column of central iiro<,'ress — Plateaux of tlie OM AVorld-PIateau of American Talile Lands not underst(vod — Its basins — Climaf." uniforlly vernal— Fertility of soil— (Jrasses nnike natural hay — Immense herds f cattle — Auriferous f,'ranite and }rold placers — Irrijration — I'repared for an mmediate dense population — Its physical characteristics — (U'olojrical formatiii— Mineralogical resources— Zone id' civilization — Lino (d' progress 10 TABLE OF COX TEXTS. CIIArTKR IV. THE SilEKRA SAX JUA.V. VKQT. Till' gdlil mill silver ]ini(hicliiiii of tlio wmlil — AiirifciMiis or i;i)lil-l)caring forinn- tinii — ChIi'iiiciius I'liiiiiiitioii — Iniii, ciiiiiicr, Icml — KimmI I'liliiiiiiiitinns of thi; Sii'iia Mailn — Pike's I'lak — Tlu- Sirna Miinlni's — Miinn;; in thi" AinlfS — Slii|icMilcins ffl'futs iif till' inti'iiial vult-aiiir iiuwcr.-' of llii' j^lolii' — Aljiiiiilanci' of tliu ]irci.'ii)iis iiii'lals — (.'afmii of the ColinaiUi — (iorgcous variety of seenery — I'liiloiiuiiliy of inetiilliferiius ileiiosits — "tireut Xorth Amprieiin iJcHert" does not exist — Itiinibolilt's views — The (iieat IMateau tlie peat of cmjiire of the ancient Jlexieans — Heniaikalile foeal eiilniinatiun of the Siena Minilires in tho Biena San Ji mi — The colunin of jiioneers npon its tliiesliuiil 4-' CIIArTKR V. THE SOITII PASS OF AMKHIfA. Rontc from Paris to Pekin — Distance ami time reiliueil — Tlic Plateau and two Por- ililleras the only im|i"iliments — liasin of the .Mciliserranean and liasin of the JIississi]i|ii — The former .salt water — The hitter rich, calcareou)', iinil iiralilo 8iiil — The former sii]i|iorteil a |io|inhitionof one liniiilreil anil thirty-one millions — The latter cajiahlc- of twelve hnnilreil millions — l!olh the .«eats of cmiiire in their r(s|ieetivc continents — liotli traverseil hy the zmliac of civilization — The South Pass — Its slia]ie, size, ami surface — Distance from Astoria ami St. Louis — The only jiass throu;;li the Mountain Formation hence to Tehuantcjiec — The j^rcnt trail of the butValo |iasse.s throu;;li it — Uiiiiiterrn)itc(l ]iassa}fe hy the bed of great rivers both to the Atlantic and Pacific — I'niforniity of climate from sea to sea — The great Continental line of empire here — The Pillars of Washington 54 CHAPTER YI. THE GHEAT ItASlX ol' THE JllSSISSiri'I. It3 great river — It? surface n r-ch and deep sediment — Its climate — Line of tinibr — Line of grasses — Capacity for ]ioiiulatioi. iJcographical centre of the ]!aui and North American Continent at same point — Hetwcen and e(|nidistinf from the l.'.V.l,Om).non iio|)uhitioii of Kurope and the O.'id.OdO.fKIO population of Asia and Polynesia — Surfaeo of Europe descends outwards trom its cent)! — Also of .\sia — Surface of Xorth America like a bowl, gathering and cenral- izing whatever enters within its rim — The Basin of the Mississijiju the aiuihi- theatre of the world C4 CHAPTER VII. I'ASTORAT, A.MEKIfA. Great Plains of America md deserts — The I'astoral Ciardcn of the woid — Tts surface a gentle slope to the east — Abounds in rivers — Covered witi thick TABLE OF COX TENTS. 11 PAOC. Iicaring forinn- latidiis of tliL' 1 the Andes — -Abmidanee of y of si'i'ner.v — n llcsert" 'Iocs ciniiiri' of tlie Miiii))re» in the nutritious grasses and swarming with animal life — Soil not sandy, hut a flno calcareous mould — Convenient to navigation — (.'limato dry, and temperature even — Herbage perennial, edible, and nutritious throughout the year, and cured into natural hay upon the ground — Sujipnila one huiulicd iiiilUuna of iiild catlle — Xo tires as in j)rairies— Turkeys, chickens, water-fowl, fish, and game in great variety, abundant — Ample proportion of arable land for farms, fuel, building materials, etc.— t'linnite favorable to health an<l longevity — Animal food three- Jifths of that of tlie human family — How jiroduced spontaneously — Very little labor necessary for support — Pastoral agriculture on a large scale eomjiara- tively a new order of industry to our people — Destined to be of immense im- portance 71 CHAPTP]Il VIII. ■an and two f'or- iiil liasin of the us, and arable y-oni' iiiilliniis — empire in their ion — The So\ith St. Louis — The epec — The great • the bed of great ■ from sea to sea asliington OJ ' — Line of timl.?r litre of the Bain and e(niidistiiit 11(1 population of rom it? cente — ing and eenval- fiijilii the aiu)hi- 64 if the woid— Tts vered wifc thick THE SYSTEM OF THE TARCS. The Definition of Pare — Their Beauty and Grandeur — The Pares of Colorado — San Luis Pare — Ease of Entrance and De]iarture — Mountains — Rivers — Extent — Climate — Valley of the City of Mexico — Pasturage of San Luis Pare — Alpine Vegetation — The Precious Jletals — Normal Structure of the Cordillera — Of the Sierra Mimbres — Craters of Extinct Volcanoes — Peilrigals — Cerritos — Walls of Lava — Productions of the Pares — ^Medicinal Waters — Hot Springs — Irrigation — Accessibility — Health — Mexican Population 77 CHAPTER IX. THERMAL AMERICA. Magnitude of the New Powers and Fresh Forces — Thermal Science — Belt of Pro- duction — Aqueous Atmosphere — Aerial Atmosphere — Ethereal Atmosphere — Maritime Climate — Continental C'imate — Kegion of the Piedmont — InBuenoo of Vapors — Unfavorable Influence of Thermal Laws in Europe — The Gold Fever — The Land Question — Government Credits — The Financial Problem — Jlistaken Legislation — Pastoral Agriculture — Industrial Organization — The Cos- mopolitan llailway 91 CHAPTER X. THE NORTH AMERICAN MISSION. The Pioneer Army — The Continental Mission — The Southern Andes — The North- ern Andes — Eastern and Western Cordilleras — Profile of the Andes — Sim- plicity of Structure — Longitudinal Position — The Calcareous Plain — Plateau — System of the Pares — Enumeration — San Luis Pare — Alps of Europe — Convex Surface of Eurojie— Concave Surface of North America — Climate of Colorado — Isothermal Belt — Climate and Civilization 12 TAULt; OF CUSl'ENTS. C II APT Ell XL TUE NORTU AMEKKAN MISSION — COXTIXLED. rAQI. The Oriuntiil Slujif ul' Asia — China — lis Iiujicil't'ct Iisollii'iuml Zimo — The Isotlicr- uiiil Zone of Ndi'lli AiiK'ricii — Liiii^^iliidiiiiil Muuntiiiiis — l'()|jiihiliiiiin of Asia aud Eurojif — Ainciic-ii liilunin'iliali — Wii.v-Tiavfl of Ihe Iliiiiiiiii llaoi — (joo- grajihical Progress — Soc.ul Progress — (JoM l)iseoveries — City of Iteiiver — .March of the Pioneers — Overland (Jourjuests — System of Naliiral Porees — Pastoral Agriculture 1U7 C II APT Ell XII. THE NORTH AMERICAN MISSION — CONTINUED. Geological poriiiatiou of Ihe Anierieiin Amies — Alinospheres — Maritime Climate — Contineiilal Climate — Uiehness of Almosjiheric Color — Vernal Teiu[)eraturo — JJcuver Cosiiiojiolilau — ■Trans|iortiitioii liy Kaihvays — Tidal ^March of Pojiula- tiou — lionilou and the Oriental Commerce — Prosiiective Oriental Commerce of >' rtli America — Traufactcd and I'niransactcd Mission of the North American People — Conclusion 117 APPENDIX. MEXICAN WAR. Remarks of Slajor AVilliam Giljjin, at the Barbecue given the Cole Infantrj', at Jefferson City, Thursday, August 10,1847 125 II. SFEECII OF COLONEL WILLIAM CIILI'IX ON THE SUBJECT OF THE PACIFIC RAILWAY. First S]ioken at the Canij) ol' Fin: Thnnmind California Kmigrants at WnhcruHa (now the City of Kawrenee . Kansas, l{e]ieiited at Indejiendence, Missouri, at a Mass Meeting of Ihe Citizens of Jackson County, held November 6, 18411 136 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 13 III. PROCEEDIN(iS OF A MASS MEETING OF THE CITIZENS OF JACKSON COUNTT, PAOE. At Indcpeiidi'iu^o, iin llic .'ith of November, IS 11), to ri'ijioiid to the Action of the Great N'litioniil Hiiilroiid Convention, held in St. Louis on tho V.A\\ day of October, Is 19 165 IV. pike's I'EAK and THE SIERRA SAN JUAN', Extracts fro;i un Address l)y Colonel William (iilpin, delivered at Kansas City, November 15, 1858; on the Gold I'rodnetion of America and the Sierra San Juan 168 V. OEOGRAMIICAL MEMORANDA ON THE PACIFIC RAILROAD. Reproduced from the Pamphlet of 1S50 178 VI. THE nEMP-GROWING REGION. Reproduced from tho Pamphlet of 1856 202 VII. AN ORATION. Spoken by Honorable William Gilpin, to tho Quests of tho Fenian Brotherhood, at Denver, Colorado, July 4, 1868 209 olc Infantry, at OF THE PACIFIC LIST OF MAPS. MAT OF NORTH AMERICA. Hilinpiitinj,' Iho " Momitniii Sy.^tciii" and its d'-tnih, Tlio "Great Calcareous Plain' as a unit, auJ tLu euutiiiuous eiiciiulirij; " Maritime yelvage." II. MAP OF XORTU AMERICA. In which are delineated the "Mountain System" as a unit, The "Great Calcareous Plain" and its dttaiix, and the continuous encircling " Maritime Selvage." III. THERMAL MAP OF NORTH AMERICA. Delineating the Isothermal Zodiac, the Isothermal Axis of Intensity, and its ex- pansions uji and down the " Plateau." IV. MAP ILLUSTRATING THE SYSTEM OF THE PARCS And the domestic relations of the "Great Plains," the " North American Andes," and the Pacific " Maritime Front." Y. MAP OF THE WORLD. Pclineatint; the Contrasted LonijiUnIiiKil and Lntiluiliiial Forms of the Continents, thi Isothermal Zodiac and Axis of Intensity, round the World, and the Line of the Cosmopolitan Railway and its Longitudinal Feeders. YI. MAP OF THE SYSTEM OF THE PARCS OF COLORADO. 14 P s. eat Calcareous Plain" bo "Groat Calcareous Sclvago." ntensity, and its cs- ARCS rth American Andes," ms of the Continent?, , and the Line of the )RADO. * r ^^..J~l~^ — ' .« K.I I U \M> II". III! I ,."> l;ii IJ." I.'(» ll.l no III.*. IttO l»,-| !Mt ll.l (lO 7.'> 70 ll.'. (.o .V. .Hi l.-| hi .1.. C L L r S V C R A^f.^"^ ^ - u u - r . . N u .III ^.^' ,^.,J '• (/"•I ii.i»iU / N H r M f V o N 1 >.•!»' 1 J » .. I r ' Pis XJ^'--^ •*VJ »rV- '■^Vir*.^— .*■ ft ■"^■*WWBKIJfJ!«5SiS£i« ■aill—illiiii ii'iik^. of our sl'oteh w This IS I appi degree occupy, and syiii 3Iorcovei tlieni to graphic recur wli of count! condeiisii guarded TIio ni of its an I'acific THE MISSION 'Si OP T II K NORTH AMERICAN PEOPLE. CHAPTER I. THE iMOUNTAIN FORMATION OF NORTH A.MKUICA — TlIK CORDILLERAS — THE PLATEAU — THE NORTH AMERICAN AXUES. I HAVE elsewhere given a sketch of one of the cardinal subdivisions of our continent and country, the Great Plains. I now proceed to s'.ri'tch what is beyond them, and fills the sjiace out to the Pacific f^ea. This is the immense Mountain Formation of North A.mkrica. I approach the attempt to classify and set down this region with a degree of trepidation which I find it difficult to master. During the years of war and exploration which I have passed among them, every hour has kept alive the awe inspire' by the immensity of the space tlu y occup3', the grandeur of their bidk and altitude, and the sublime order and symmetry which pervade them as a .system, and in the detail.'^. 3Ioreover, no one, not even IIuMnoLDT, has ever attempted to reduce them to a classic system, or assented to what I have done in the hydro- graphic map of 1845. These indelibly-graved impre.ss'ons perpetually recur whenever my memory reverts to that time, and warn me to s| cak of countries so novel to a public little curious and uninformed, only after condensing their portrait with the maturest meditation and with nicely- guarded caution. The mountain formation of Xorth America is that distinct subdivision of its area which occupies the whole space from the Great Plains to the Pacific Sea, and covers two-sevenths of the continent. In its superficial 16 MOVKTAIN FORMATION OF XORTII AMLltlCA, FTC. contents, bulk, nunibor und variety of the niimntaiu niaf<s<es, it e(iuals she aggregated mountains of all the other eontinents. It has peculiar char- acteristics, which render it more interesting than them all. Travelling transversely across from east to west along tht! thirty-ninth degree, the breadth is l(i(l(l miles ; the length, continuous from Tehuanteiiec to the Arctic Sea, is \7)M) miles ; the direction is regular from south-south-east til n(irth-north-west. From east to west the traveller enters and crosses live jthysical divisions, as distinct in order and succession as are the pris- matic streaks of the rainbdw to the eye. These are : 1st. The Black Hills, or Eastern I'iedmunt ; 2d. The Cordillera of the Sierra Madre (Rocky Mountain ) ; Ikl. The I'lateau of the Table Lands, with its moun- tain chains; ^th. The Cordillera of the Sudwy Andes (the Sierra Nevada) ; oth. The Maritime Piedmont of the Pacitic Shore. These divisions are parallel to one another like the .streaks of the rainbow, and, like them, run throughout from end to end of the iitoinifdiii/oniuitioii, in which they are blended together in one endjodied mass. Beyond the longitudinal centre of the (Jreat Plains, the undulations of the surface begin to swell \i\), imtil tiiey become elevated into secondary moun- tains, with tinilier, and crowned with rocky escarpments. These are the Black Hills. They :ire the outliers of the Sierra 3Iadre, are in the Basin of the Mississippi, and, masking the mountain crest, break and graduate its descent. They are 300 miles in breadth, are perforated by all the great rivers, and are washed away and tortured into fragments by their channels. They have rocks of ])orphyritie granite and sandstone, but are for the most jjart formed of the sulphat eof lime, as gypsum or plaster of Paris. Snme of them are paved with petrifactions, and ollicrs, being composed of light mould, form the suspended matter of the rivers, wliich goes down to make the alluvial bottoms and delta of the Mississippi Basin. They have but little snow or rain, a scattered growth of dwarfed timber, and a pictures(iue and fantastic scenery. They are an importnat part of the j)astoral region, are clothed in perennial grasses, and abound in aboriginal cattle. Perjjetual sunshine, fertility, perfect liealth, pure and abundant water, ever-varying scenery, and infinite animal life, will, in time, attract and fix here the densest po[)ulation. Over the Black Hills rises the CouDiLLKKA or tiik Sikkra Madre. This supreme Cordillera may be defined as the backbone of the world ; it is the " divortlii (Kjiionnti' of the American continent, From the snows of its immense crest and flank,s descend the rivers that irrigate either face of the continent out to all the oceans. From it also branch off all the other mountain chains. Where the irrigation from the snows :ilJCA, ETC. MOUNTAIN FORMATIOX OF NORTH AMERICA, ETC. 17 is sufficient, immense forests exist ; elscwliere the mountains arc naked. The core or basis of the Sierra Madre is red porjdiyritic granite, from the innnense naked masses of which comes tlie popular sol)ri(iuet of '• llocky Mountains." This is the gold-producing quartz. The Sierra Madre has precipitous mural flanks, which protrude outward as promontories, or recede to encase the courses of rivers and valleys. It has peaks, conical in shape and culminating by a sharp apex. To those who view it in the horizon from below, this is its general appearance ; but to those who ascend its ragged front and surmount its highest crest, this is found to be a Mesa or indefinite table land as level as a water surface. This Sierra Madre has its own cliaracteristics, which are all of the grandest order. I am unable to illustrate it by comparison, because it stands supreme and alone, the standard to which all other moun- tain masses nnist be submitted. It is of the original mass of the globe, and has neither lava, nor craters, nor active volcanoes, nor traces of the igneous foi'ce within. It is par excellence primeval. Scooped out of its main mass are valleys of great size and beauty, which have received from the trappers the name of Pcircs. These occur at regular intervals, alter- nately upon either flank, and mark the sources of the great rivers. Those which I have seen are the Plain of the South Pa.ss, surrounding the sources of the llio Verde : — the North Pare, upon the Northern Platte or Nebraska Kiver: — the Middle Pare, upon the liio Grande of the West : — the South Pare, upon the Southern Platte : — the Pare of San Luis, upon the Rio del Norte. These remarkable valleys are all secluded within the main dorsal mass of the Cordillera, and are of great size, fer- tility, and beauty. They resemble those reservoire of the Alpine torrents of Switzerland (Geneva and Constance), out of which issue the rivers Rhone and Rhine : and the valley of Kashmere, through which the Indus flows ; though they contain no lakes. They are the paradise of the aboriginal hc-ls, with which they swarm at all seasons, and are the favorite retreats of the Indians. To define the exact width of the primary Cordillera, and mark the line where it fades into the Black Hills upon the jast, and into the Plateau of the Table Lands upon the west, is not ea.sy ; but it varies from 100 to 250 miles, according as it expands into salient promontories, or recedes to give passage to the rivers. We next descend on to the third division, which is the Plateau op THE Table Lands. This expands onward to the Cordillera of the Snowy Andes. I speak again with great difllidencc, but of all the departments into which science has arranged the physical geography of the globe, this appears to me the most interesting, the most crowded with various and 18 MOUXTALS FOIIMATIOS OF NORTH AMERICA, ETC. attractive foatuivw, and the most certainly destined eventually to contain the most enlightened and powerful empire of the world. At present it is no more known or eouiprchended, as it is, by the Ameri- can peo[)le than was America itself to the poet Homer, and is to them as much a myth as the continent of Atalanta. Nevertheless, it is of such great urea as to contain within itself three rivers which rank with the Ganges and Danube in size, and five great ranges of primary mountains. This will be seen exactly defined upon the hydrograpliic map of IS-l.'), as the immense longitudinal region encased within the Cordilleras and extending from Tehuautepec to the Northern Sea. It would exhaust a large volume to recite in detail the interesting features of this region, all worthy to be known. The Plateau ok the Table L.inds is a succes.sion of intramontune basins, seven in number, and ranging successively from south to north. The .solid mass of the Andes debouches out of the Isthmus of Teluian- tepce, and forks immediately into the two Cordilleras. Advancing along the Western Cordillera into the state of Jalisco, a mountain chain issues from its inner flank, and, traversing the Table Lands, plunges into the Sierra Madre, in the state of San Luis I'otosi. This .'uts off" to the south the " Basin of the Cifi/ of Jfc.vici," which is the Jirst, the smallest, and the mo.st .southern of the mountain basins. Further north, a .second mountain chain crosses from Durango to Coahuila, and cuts oif the " Basin of the Jiolson di Mapimi.'' This is the second mountain basin. The Cordilleras, which flank the.sc two and fence them from the seas, have so great an altitude that the ocean vapors never surmount their crests, nor do any clouds pass outward over them. These basins, therefore, have no outward drainage, nor any rivers run- ning to the sea. Stagnant lakes alternately receive the drainage from their surrounding mountains, and yield it to them again by evaporation. This last chain is known as the "Mountain of the Kio Florida;" the former as the " Mountain of Qucretaro." Pursuing still the Western Cordillera through the state of Sinaloa, a third mountain chain, dividing ofl^, traverses the Table Lands due north, and plunges into the Sierra 3Iadrc, between the Pare of San Luis and the Middle Pare. This is an immense and remarkable mountain, is 1300 miles in length, and divides the waters of the Del Norte and Colorado. It is the fmiioiis Sierra Jlimhres. The area thus cut oft' between it and the mountain of the Rio Florida is drained by the rivers Del Norte, Pecos, and Conchos, which, uniting at the western base of the Sierra 3Iadre. perforate it by a aiiiion, and, escap- ing into the external maritime region, form the llio Grande of Texas. ERICA, ETC. eventually to contain i-hl. <s it ix, by the Anieri- er, and i.s to tlieni as theless, it is of such ,'hich rank with the ' primary niountains. )hic map of 1845, as the Cordilleras and It -would exhaust a •es of this region, all sion of iiitnonoHtane I'roni south to north. Isthmus of Tehuan- s. Advancing along nountain chain issues lids, plunges into the This .'uts off to the the Jirst, the smallest, 3S from Durango to 7 Mapimi.'' This is I flank these two and that the ocean vapors ! outward over them. I, nor any rivers run- \-e the drainage from again by evaporation, he Kio Florida ;" the he state of Sinaloa, a ible Lands due north, •c of San Luis and the )le mountain, is 1300 Norte and Colorado. lin of the Rio Florida ;hos, which, uniting at y a ainan, and, escap- j Grande of Texas. ■^ MOCyTALV FOIiMATtOX OF NOIiTIl AMERICA, ETC. 19 This is tlie only wator-course which perforates the Sierra >Iadro between Cape Horn and the Arctic Sea. It is lierc that a profound and distressing error pervades all the existing charts and delineations of our continental geography. These, omitting the great Sierra .Madre for (iOO or 700 miles of its Icngtli, and assigning its name to the Sierra Minibres, locate the Rio del Xorte and its vast basin with the .system of Atlantic rivers. Yet the Sierra Mimhres abounds in pedrigals of lava, craters, and volcanic phenomena, and the geological altitude, configuration, and a thousand pal- pal)le characteristic features of the ba.sin of tlie Del Norte, locate thi'm upon the Plateau of the Table Lands. This blunder of transposition is more foolish than to construct a map of Europe and forget the Alps, or to draw for the people a ])ine-trce growing erect in the middle of the ocean, whilst doli)hins graze upon a mountain slope ! The vast basin of the 0el Norte is then tlie third in order of the mountain basins of the Plateau. The Western Cordillera continues to traverse Sonora, and, passing round the Gulf of California, rea])pears in sight of the ocean in the State of California. Opposite San Bernardo another numntain chain branches from its eastern flank, traverses the Table Lands by a northern cour.se, dividing the waters of the Colorado and Great Salt Lake, and plunges into the Sierra Madre between the .sources of Green River and Snake River. This is theyoHr^/t great moiuitain chain of the Table Lands, is 1000 miles in length, and is the Sieura Wasatch. Between it and the Sierra Mimbres is included tlie immense Mountain Basin of tiik Colokado, which is tho fourth subdivisicm of the area of the Table Lands. This basin has an immense area, great altitude, an infinite perplexity of mountains, and is redundant in striking and wonder- ful novelties. The Rio Verde, Rio Grande of the West, and Rio San Juan, collect its upper waters, and, uniting against the inner flank of the Cordillera of the Snowy Andes, gorge it diagonally through and through, and escape into the Gulf of California. This sublime gorge is 557 miles in length, and is known as the " Canon of the Colonido.'' It is through- out a narrow mountain chasm, traversing, without interruption, the very bowels of the Andes, having perpendicular mural .sides, often many thou- sand feet in altitude. Other important aflluents of the Cohn-ado (the Mohabe, the Little Colo- rado, and the Gila) force their way into it by an infinite labyrinth of gorges, similarly scooped through the bowels of the mountain mass. These two remarkable basins, then, — the Del Norte and Colorado, — lie linst the Sierra Mimbres, as a back!) )ne. The waters of tlie first uortre the Eastern Cordillera to the Gulf of Mexico; those of the second the 20 MOfSTMN FOllMAl'lOy OF SOHTIl AMh'ltlVA, ETC. Wt'storii Cortlillora to the Gulf of California ; but no yorjr'e unites them tliiouj,^! the .Siona Miuibn s, wliiuli is uniierfoiatoil. Tlu'si- lia.sin.s arc both lonjiitutlinal in shajic and jiosition ; thoy overlap one another, an<l thereby multiply the luiniber and complexity of moun- tain barrier-s. Amoiiji the jihysieal jihenomena of the ^'loiu', this '■' Cunou iif tlif Colorado" is an isolated fact, unicpie and sublime in interest. These two basins are, /mr i.mi/t iht, the metalliferous dei)artment of the world, and are in/nsiil thro\ijihout with utoinitdiiis of the precious stones, and precious and base metals — of lava, obsidian, and marble — of salt, coal, and with rivers of thermal and medicinal waters. Let me hasten to other subdivisions of e(puil interest. Near the forty- second dejiree of latitude, the Western Cordillera throws oflf the Ji/th mountain chain of the Table Lands. This has a serjjentine course, mainly east and west, is 12(H( miles lonjr, and forms the division bi'tween the hasin of the Stilt Ltiht; iunX the htis'ni of tlif. Coliiiiil/fd. It joins with the Sierra Wasatch, and immediately at the point of junction, plunges with it into the Eastern Cordillera. This great basin, containing in one of its depressions the Salt Lake, is the counterpart, on our continent, of the Caspian of Asia. It is, like the first and second basins, encased all around with an unperforated mountain wall, and neither sends nor receives water from any sea. Nearly oj)posite to I'ugctt's Sound, a >ii\vth chain of mountains, break- ing oft" from the eastern flank of the Western Cordillera, traverses tlie Table Lands by a due northern course, and sinks into the Eastern Cor- dillera, closely enveloj)ing the sources of the Columbia Iiiver. This is called the Uk?;n.\aua\ ^Iolntains, and divides the waters of the Colnndjia from those of Frazer's Kiver. The Basin of the CoLUiiiUA is the sixth in order of the basins of the Table Lands. It is the most admirable ol" them all. A splendid circular configuration and two primary rivers. Its size, position, and con- figuration, relatively to the Mississijipi Valley and the Pacific Ocean, make it the elite of them all. It extends all across the Table Lands from rim to rim, as do both its great rivers — the Snake Iiiver and the Colum- bia — which, uniting, gorge the Western Cordillera at the Cascades, j)cnc- trating through them to the Pacific in 4(5^ l\)'. They run from east to west, and connect exactly by convenient and single pa.s.ses across tlie East- ern Cordillera, with the great rivers flowing down to tlie Atlantic. It partakes of all the cardinal characteristics of the other basins, liaving, in addition, mighty forests, navigation, a larger share of arable qualities, and a superior economy in its topographical siuface and position. Such are the six primary basins and mountain chains v;hieh checker i IL'/tlt'A, ETC. MOUSTAIN FOliMATION OF XOIITII AMERICA, ETC. 'A IK) j;(H<j.'l' uiiiti'S tliciu Misition; they overliip cdiiipk'xity of luoiin- lu' <.'!obi', tl\is ^'C'tiiiou ime in interest. t'erous (li'imitiuent of il((iiis of the jjiveioiis diaii, and marble — of waters. rest. Near the forty- i tlirowB t)flf the fifth jicntine eour.se, mainly isiun In'tween the hanin t joins with the Sierra 1, plunges with it into isions tlic Salt Lake, is f Asia. It is, like the unperforuted mountain f .sea. n of mountains, break- Tordillera, traverses the i into the Eastern Cor- unibia River. This is des the waters of the order of the basins of tliem all. A splendid I size, position, and eon- ind till! Paeilie Oeean, s the Table Lands from L' River and the Coluni- a at the Ca.xcades, j)ene- They run from east to J passes across the East- VII to the Atlantic. It other basins, having, in I of arable qualities, and id position. I chains which checker and arrange them.selves into the Grand Platk.M' of tiik Tablk Lands, as I have seen them and become familiar with them. There is a scn-iith, the ba.sin of Frazer's River, with which I am acquainted only from the reports of others who have reconnoitered it. It has the same general features, though .smaller, longitudinal in direction, and narrow. We may now, then, return to the third elementary division of the mountain formation of North America, namely : TiiK Platkak ok Till; Taulk L.vxds. We may understand its variety and vastne.><s, yet handle it as a unit. The lowest sedimentary points, where the waters accumulate into the lakes of Mexico, jNIapimi, Gasman, and Salt Lake, have an average altitude of G(HK) feet above the seas. Tlie ir/m/f P/iifiaii /kis tlim the clictitiim of a prlnutry iiiituiitnlu. It is (iverywheri! fertile, being jtas- toral for the most part, but arable where irrigation is adopted. JIvery geological forniiition exists on a Titanic scale: volcanoes, colum- niu- basalt, and pedrigals of crystallized lava; porjdiyritie granite and .sandstone, and secondary basins of tin; sulphate and carbonate of lime. It is universally a rainless region, and nctwhere is arable agriculture po.ssible without artiKcial irrigation. Pa.storal culture is the prominent feature, wherein it rivals the Great I'lains. The air is tonic and exhilarating — the atmosphere resplendent with perpetual sunshine by day and with stars by night. The climate is inteusely dry, and the temperature variant and delicious. Habitations are not essential in this salubrious and vernal clime; the aborigines dispense with them. During six years that I have ]ia.ssed ujion the Plateau, I have rarely slept within a house or beneath any canoj)}' but the sky, infinitely spangled with stars. Upon this Plateau has existed, within our memory, the populous and civilized empire of the Aztecs, and in South America that of the Incas. Timber grows upon the rivers and upon the irrigated mountain flanks. To arrange the arable lands for irri- gation is not more co.stly than our system of fencing, which it supersodej?. No piu'tion of tlu' globe can maintain so dense a population. But the fourth subdivision of the " ^lountain Formation of North America" is the SxowY Cordillkra of the Ande.s. Everybody is familiar, from childhood, with the South American Andes. This of ours is the same, unchanged in any characteristic, except an increased and superior grandeur. Let us restore to it its ancient and illustrious name! Let us iiupiire how it has come temporarily to be lost. The Andes traverse the American continent, in one unbroken and uniform mass, from Cape Horn to Behring's Strait. Towards the ocean, to who.se indented .shore they are parallel, and from which they are every- where visible, they present a precipitous front and immense altitude ; they •to MOi'XTAl.y FOItMATIOX OF NOHTU AMEltWA, ETC. uverywhure suniiouiit tlii; line; of jit'ipotual Miiow. I'imhi this front, wliidi ruct'ives tlie perpetual wimls f'roiu tlio (ictaii anil is liatlu'il witli its va]ior.s, KiiuWH and iori'St.s ari-uinulatc as u|i(in the Alii.s. But on tlu'ir suinniit of |»'r|K'tual eongclation, tlii'se vajiors, (•oiiilrnsed to iee, are as solid, as |it'r- jK'tiiai, as tlie granite rocks. No vajiors jiass over to the hiittr rejiinn, whiih is naked of snow, tiniher, or irrijiation. Heme has ;-oni(! this dis- tinetive Spanish sobriipiet of this sulilinie sea-wall — Cordillera Xniii/n de los Andes (the siiuiri/ ehain of the Andes) — to define it s|)ecilieaily from the naked masses within! Thus, sinee this aneient and familiar Anuks has come to he domesticated in our repuhliean empire, within the States of California and (►re^on, has it been thoughtlessly jiluiidered of its name, defineil only hy an expletive, snoin/, and incontinently ii;nored of its supreme, coronat ■d rank in the mountain system of the world. U\ then, you rt^juire from me a description of this /mnf/i subdivision of our mountain foimation, I bid you to ]ierusea^ain the tiiscinatin^r pa<res of I'llK.snrn' and his predecessors ; the nmiautic historians of CditrKZ, Al.V.VH.VlK), and I'lZAUlKi ; and, above all, ihi' oracular inspiration with which tile illustrious lIt:.Mi«)LUT lias analyzed the };i'oi:raphical wonders of this Cordillera of the Snowy Andes, and tinted tiiem with divine elo(|Uence ! Finally, I am bewildered how to speak of {hv ji/fli subdivision, which is the Pacific Mahiti.MK KiuiNT. 'I'his brinjis us out to meet the ocean, to blend tojrether the varieties of sea and land, and where, auion<; tho assembled climates and countries of the ^lobe, Cornucopia jiermaiiently dwells with her ever-redundant and overtlowiny horn of ripening beauty and plenty. This Pacific Maritime Front is the c/unterpart of that outside of tho Allejihany and upon the Atlantic. ' is the tide-water rejiion. Tho Atlantic Front has an area of 271,00(1 ,s(piare miles, this of 420,0(10 ; it is not mucli broader from the mountains to the sea, but has a greater lon- gitude. In every detail of climate, vegetation, soil, and physical forma- tion, there is between the.se two seaboards the complete.st contnist. On the Pacific are blended, beneath the vyv., and swejit in at one sight, the sublime, castellated masses of the Andes — their bases are .set in tho emerald verdure of the jtlaiii, rising gently al)ove the sea-level — their middle flanks are clothed with the arborescent grandeur of pine and cedar forests. Naked above, and towering into the upper air, their columnar form of structure resembles an edifice designed to enclose the whole globe itself; but from this foundation, and rearing their snow-covered crests another mile into the firmament, shoot u]i volcanic peaks at intervals of one hundred miles, encasing the throats of the inner world of fire, and MKItK^A, ETC. MOrSTMX FOIIXATWX OF SOUTH A3!EliICA, ETC. 23 coruscatuil in ]n'ri)etiial snow, bL'uwith contnutH uf vulcanic smoke and flames. Tlie siililimest of tlie oceans; majestic rivers more worthy to bo deified tlian tlie (lan,i:es or K;:y|itian Nile; the j^randcst and most eU'vated of eartli's mountains ; sn|)erlative forest everj^rcen ; an emerald verilnre and cxniierant fertility; a mellow and delicions atmosjdiere, imbued with jiur]ile lints reflected from the ocean and the mountains ; a soft vernal tempcratup' the ytar round. Whatsoever can be cond)ined of massive and rnuiicd mountains, |)ietnn'S(|U(! land.scape, and a verdant face to nature shininji under the richest sunii;;ht : a climate soft and serene; whatsoever of idl tlicse, blended and enjoyed in combination, will acc()m|ilish to j;ive grace, elevation, and refinement to the .social world, are here united to woo and develop the {renius of our ccmntry and our people. In all these natural favoi"s our ins/irn seaboard front i.s supremely more gifted than the classic shores of the ^lediterranean and the Asian Seas, for fifty ci^nturitjs the favorite tlunne of history, inietry, and song. The emliellishmcnts which old society and the accunmlating contributions of a hundred .successive generations add to nature, are not yet there; but these iri/f v(iiiii\ and to us who fan the career of our great country whilst we live, the future, which jwsterity will po.sscss and enjoy, is full of the radi- ance of trui' glory. Such is a honu'spun and laconic di^tail of a few e.s.sential fact.s neccssjiry to com])rchend tlu; ^'Mountain FaniKitlnn of JVorfh America" and to know where anil what it is. The subji^ct is above the reach of imagina- tion or ornament, and of a higher level. Intelligent research and candid judgment mu.st supply the rest and fill up the portrait. CTIAl'TEli II. THE CORDILf.KIlA OF THE SIEKHA MADUE — THE EASTERN COHDIM.EUA. This is an iinineiiso department of our icmntry, of primary Hif,niificanco and interest. Vaj^uely dennminated the '• Stony or lloeky jMountains," oeeupyinjr an inlio.'fjiitalilu wa.stc l)eyond the enerj^ien of soeial adviMitnre, manivind lias lieretofore heard the name with indifierence, and ail minute detaiL with dogmatic aversion. To establisii it.s title to esteem in the poi)ular oj)ini()n of the world, the complete reverse of this, is my object. Prominent in the " Mountain Sy.sti^m of the (!lobe" is an immen.sc girdle of mountains, {granitic in Ibrmation, crested with snow, having vol- canoca on its flanks, and auri/eroiiH thrt)Ughout. This commences at Capo Horn, travcTses the whole length of America to IJehring's Strait, tra- verses Asia and Eurojie to the Pillars of Hercules, traverses Africa and appears in the islands of Madagascar, Australasia, and New Zealand. If the single strait of Hercules were closed, and Suez opened, this continu- ou.s mountain crest woidd exactly contain all the .salt and frt'sh waters of the JJasiii of the Pacific Ocean in a closed circle, and divide them from those of the Basin of tlie Atlantic. This continuous girdle becomes, in some localities, very much conden.sed in breadth and altitude, as at the Istlimus of Central America, and in France. Elsewhere it a.ssumes immense expansion in area and altitude, spreading out and elevating itself into the continental plateau, which occu- pies the whole of Central Asia, and the still grander " I'lateau of the Table Lands" of our North America. The " M'iKiilni'n Formutian of North America" is, then, an important section of this innuensc girdle, which bisects all the continents. It has an area, a massiveness and altitude, a position an • climate, a fer- tility, a variety which blends all the peculiarities of all other sections : a simplicity of configuration, aud a sublimity of profile ',hich transcends all the rest. Thus, in tlie " Cordillera Nevada dc los Andes" is found the full equiv- alent of the South American mountains, volcanoes, active and extinct, crowned with glaciers and of immense altitude, battlements of columnar basalt, pedrigals of lava, subterranean and thermal streams. The plateau 24 ''€4 and its prim and Asia c( Finally, Belvi's surpii the inniicn^ cloud-conipi '• The ("1 award*- ••: •! of the oceu the sujircm th(! Uio (in the Norlhc the Amazo slope. Is I The IVcsl by evaporal Sirini Mix the atui isp! flanks. i?ut let 1 our own CO to my eye, westwanl ti It is wh Tehuantcpi continue to gives its fo Pass of M serves a ve At the I canon of t through ail rowing a c maritime r This gorge which the of the con that of tin and only w the .seas. The Cor rilE coinHLLKUA OF rilK SIEItUA MADItE. 25 ASTKRN COUDIM.KUA. and its primary cliuiiw outrival in area and interest those of South Anieriea and Asia conihincd. iMnaliv. the stern and stniicndous masses of the Himalaya fnid them- selves surpassed liy the primeval hulk, the prodijiious leii^iih and hreadth tlie innnense mesas, the romantic pares, tlio far protruding' llanos, and the eloutl-eomiiellinf^ iey peaks of the Cordillera of the Sierra Madre. 'The Chain of the Mother Mountain" is the <:enerie iianiewliieh piety award'. ••' Mils eoutinuous crest, down whose flanks descend all iIk? feeders of the oceans. Let me name them : tin- Athahasea, the Saskatchewan, the supreme Missouri and Mississip[ii, the St. Lawrence, the Texan rivers, the llio (irande del Nurte, the Frazer, the (,'oluml)ia, and tlie Colorado, in the Northern continent. In the Snulhern, the Ma^dalena, the Orinoco, the Amazon, the La Plata, the I'atajronia rivei-s, and those of the Pacific sloiK'. Is not this Cordillera then ri;;htly called the Mother ol' ilivors? The fresh waters of the earth come from the clouds; the clou<ls come by evaporation from the expanses of the oceans. We shall know that the Siei-ru Mmlre divides and ndes the meteoric powers and aerial fluids of the atm isphere, equally as the waters which we sec descending; down the flanks. But let me at present restrict myself to the Cordillera as it runs athwart our own country, and define its varied features as they display themselves to my eye, looking out as I now am from the area of the Great Plains westward to the l*acific. It is where the mountain mass debouches north from the Isthmus of Tehuantej)ec, that it bii'urcates into tbe two primary Cordilleras, which continue to expand from one another. The .Mother Mountain, on the east, givt'S its form to tlie (iulf of Mexico, who.se shore it pursues nearly to the Pa-ss of Monterey and Saltillo. Hence to tlie Arctic Sea the crest pre- serves a very regular line to the north-northwe.st. At the point of entrance into our present territory, it is gorged by the cafion of the Rio Grande del Norte. This caiion is a gorge cut obliijuely through and through the bowels of the Cordillera, where the river, bur- rowing a cha.sm l!ir> miles in length, accomplishes at once its exit into the maritime region and its descent from the '^Plateau of thr. Tabh: Lands." This gorge, impracticable for common uses, is the only water curnnit by which the Sierra Madre is perforated anywhere between the extremities of the continent. I have elsewhere .spokcM of this canon, together with that of the Colorado and that of the Columbia, as the three remarkable and only water-gaps whereby the plateau discharges its surplus waters to the seas. The Cordilleva of the Sierra Madre enters our territory in latitude 29°, ■ju !.■>! ID MAP OF NORTH xVMERICA ill which ar(MU'liiu'aU>cl IIk' MOUNTAIN SYSTEM ASA UNIl WuiAWAl ( AL( AllKOrSlMAlN and ils DETAILS, f//n/ Ihc t on /inor.s nirirri i n fi MAR VV i .V( i'", v^ b\ i, \\\ I> l-'. . 1 t no 10.-. 26 THE CORDILLERA OF THE SIERRA MADRE. longitude 103°, antl passes beyond the 49th degree, in longitude 114°. Its length, then, witliin these linnts, exceeds IGOO miles. It nuiintain.s an avenige distance from tlie Mississijipi Kiver exceeding 10(10 miles, and has the same distance from the beach of the Pacific Ocean ; it forms, therefore, a continuous sunmiit crest parallel to and midway between them. All the varieties of formation which distinguish the mountain chains of tlie continents here follow one another, or are blended in groups, and exist on a Titanic .scale of magnitude. Mrs(i>i exist, being mountains of immen.se base and perpendicular walls, whose summits have the level surface and smoothness of a table : Bntis, which are conical peaks wrought into perfect .symmetry of contour by the corroding power of the atmosphere: JJ<iH<»i, being mesas of inferior ele- vation prolonged outward as promontories protruding from the mountain flanks, and separating from one another the descending rivers : Ciinniin, chasms walled in on either side with mural jirecipices of mountain alti- tude ; 7)'(n/o(/.s, or jxnr.s, valleys scooped out of the main dorsal mass of the Conllllcni, within which they are encased, each as an amphitheatre. This mountain crest, exhibiting all these varieties of profile, has, when seen against the horizon, the resemblance of a saw or cock.s-comb, whence the sobri((uet Sirrrn ; the continuous ma.ss on which they rest resembles a chain of links or cord with knots, whence the name ('ordilknt. Thus is seen the expressive definition wherein thefir.st jMrmneans, the Sjmniards, our predecessors, have comj)ressed this supreme mountain feature of our continent, CunUlkra dc hi Sierra Mmhr .' To bring the mind to an easy and familiar understanding of this sub- ject, embracing so many details, it is necessary to ascend to the s>immit crest at the forty-ninth degree, from hence to follow its sinuous 'jdge to the south, to skim from point to point of the .serrated jmitile, and, from this elevation, to extend the vision outward on either flank to where it subsides into the general foundation of the continent. From such a position the eye continually overlooks the " Pfatcau of the Tabic Lands" on the west, the '' Bas'n of (lie Misumijijir on the east. The average elevation of the crest is 12,000 feet above the sea ; that of the broad pediment, from whose longitudinal axis it rises, 0000 feet ; the breadth across is 300 miles; so stupendous in area, bulk, and solidity, is the mass of the Sierra Madre ! Every one has built card houses in childhood, having a second story over the centre ; such a structure illustrates a cross section of the Sierra Madre in its primeval form. This regularity of form has disappeared under the corroding influences 'iA MADIiE. THE CORDILLERA OF TI/E SIERRA MADRE. 27 r the corrodiim' iiifluencca of the atmosphere, operating durinjj; countless ages, and the abrading powers of a tliou.sand rivers, carrying down their attritions to the sea. What is left presents an immense labyrinth of mountain summits, under- mined and channeled to a profound depth by the yawning gorges of the streams. Advancing then along the Mother crest in the direction indicated, the whole eastern flank to the 4;}d° of latitude, and lOOth" of longitude {the Sutitli Push), is striped with the rivers which converge to form the Mis- souri proper and the Yellowstone. These are the 3[ilk Kiver, the Mis- souri, the Wisdom, Jefferson, IMadison, and Gallatin forks, all converging into the Mis.souri ; the Yellowstone proper, the Wind, I'okeagie, and Powder Rivers, all converging into the Yellowstone. These rivers, each having its complement of aflluents, are all of great length, and pour down an immense volume of waters. A very small pro- portion reaches the sea, for where they debouch from the mountains at the lowe.st altitude, these waters are consumed by evaporation, rising to qu'"i'h che thirst of the arid atmosphere and surface of the great prairie ocean. But down the western flank, within the same limits, descend rivers of equal number and magnitude, going to traverse the elevated " liasin of the Cohimhid ;" these are the Columbia proper, the Cottonais, the Fliitbow, Pcnd-oreilles, Spokan, Salmon, and Snake Rivers. These rivers have a more immediate descent to the sea than those upon the east ; the mountain spurs between them are, therefore, more numer- ous, abrupt, and of greater altitude. It is easily discernible that over this serrated crest, whence so many rivers radiate as from u single knife-edge, there are many depressions or passes, liaving every variety of altitude and accessibility. The gorges which lead outward from these passes, all eventually converge to the Mis- souri and to the Columbia. The more southern portion of this mountain crest, where it divides the waters of the Yellowstone and Snake Rivers, and is seen from the great road of the Soutli Pass traveled by our people, has the local name of "Wind River Mountain." Tlie mountain crest, curving to the east, and describing a semicircle, envelops the whole basin of the Yellowstone as in a ciit-(Ir-s(u; and, subsiding gradually in altitude, disappears upon the bank of the Mis.souri. It is by this jteculiar configuration that the mountain crest here practi- cally disajipears, and leaves the open depression of die South Phhh, into which we gain access by the Sweetwater on the east, and by Snake River on the west, pa.ssing, by this means, coun)letely around the arc described by the Wind River Mountain crest. 28 THE CORDILLERA OF THE SIERRA MADRE. A similar configuration to this exists, on a small scale, in the Alps dividing France fifim Italy, which may be mentioned here on account of the aptness of the illustration and the familiarity with which history has for twenty centuries invested it. It is where the Alpine crest, under the successive names of Savoy Alps, IMount Ccnis, and Maritime Alps, sweeps round in a regular arc from Geneva to Genoa, and thence subsiding into the Apennines, bisects Italy lengthwise to the sea. Within this arc is embraced the basin of the Po, oalled once Liguria, but now Piedmont. Around this arc marched the armies of Brennus and Hannibal ; those of the Romans passing into Gaul by the plain of the Rhone ; and here also still pass the armies and people of France and the modern J]uropeans. Upon Snake River is developed the most northern of the pares. As thi;. river descends from the Sierra Mndre, it debouches into and bisects an immense plain of the most novel and remarkable features. This is the Lara Plain. It is an elliptical bowl, embraced between the Salmon River and Snake River Mountains, 325 miles in length and 95 in breadth. It is a uniform pedrigal or flat surface of vitrified basalt, melted by volcanic fires, and congealed as into a lake of cast iron. Along its longitudinal axis stand isolated peaks, known as the '• Three Butes " which erect themselves to the snow line, like volcanic cones pro- truding above the sea. Cracks of profound depth traverse this plain, whose blasted surface is without vegetation or water. It is traversed beneath by subterranean streams, which issue from natural tunnels in the wall of Snake River, plunging into its bed by magnificent cascades. Bald nakedness, rather than sterility, is the extreme characteristic of this \Tonderful plain, which has around i\s rim a fringe of little " oases" upon the streams bubbling from the mountain base, of exquisite fertility and of the most perfect romantic beauty. When we call to memory the interest attracted in every age to the diminutive formations of crystalline basalt upon the north of Ireland, near the city of jMcxico, and in Southern Italy, we are struck with awe at the repetition here of these same phenomena, on a scale of stupendous grandeur. Upon the alternate flank of the Sierra Madrc, the bowl of the Yellow- stone properly classifies itself as the second in order of the pares, having its oval ft)rm streaked longitudinally with many parallel and narrow moun- tain ridges gorged by parallel rivers. This pare is very fertile, of the grandest scenery, and a delightful climate. Such is a partial sketch of the Cordillera of the Sierra Madre, from the 49th° to the 4i{d° of latitude. .V few denominating features only are I A MA DUE. THE CORDILLERA OF THE SIERRA MADRE. 29 pointed out ; the serrateJ crests, altenuitoly rising into peaks and mesas above the snows, and depressed by passes ; tlie flanks gorged by descend- ing rivers or branching out into mountain spurs between them — the pares; the general direction is south-southeast. I omit to speak of the regions around the liigher sources of the Mis- souri and Columbia, and still onward to the noi-th, not because they are less interesting and attractive, but because I have not myself seen them, and because they are of identical features, and are as yet remote from the coUunn of progressing empire. The third Jim c is the plain of the South Pass. Although adjacent to the other two, it is in perfect contrast to them in all its characteristic features. Its surface of clay has the perfect smoothness of a water plain, over which tlie eye ranges without interruption, llain is rare, and the vegetation of grass and artcmisia .scanty and uniform. Upon its south front rises again the Cordillera, under the local name of Table Mountain. This forms an immense arc, similar to the Wind Kiver Mountain, but in the opposite direction, for, turning to the southwest, it subsides to the Rio Verde, which is the great Colorado. These two arcs approach one another within thirty miles, forming a double corner over the gorge through which the Sweetwater escapes. To mark the conti- nuity of the mothei crest, a gentle crown traverses the plain from one mountain corner to the other, only traceable by tb-^ perfect division which it makes between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. In the Table Mountiiin the ConU/leni rises agiiin. It resumes its direc- tion, configuration, and altitude, which it preserves with uninterrupted uniformity clear through the continent to Tehuantepec. As far as the 38th degree of latitude it sheds the waters of the greo.t Colorado from its western flank ; those of the Platte and Arkansas Rivers from its eastern flank. I am admonished here to pause and fix attention on the number, gran- deur, and variety of the physical elements combined around this culmi- nating ] oint of the mountains and the rivers of our continent. Nature liere, more perfectly than at any other point upon the globe, unites into one grand coup-iVml all her grandest features, which, liaimo- niously grouped, present to the mind a combination of superlative sub- limity. These contrasted pares, so different, yet so close together ! the intense massiveness of the Cordillera ! the number and proximity of great rivers ! the brilliancy and .serenity of the atmosphere in which they shine ! the awful storms whicli at long intervals brew among and shatter the iced mountain tops ! the graphic conviction ever present to the mind of the immediate presence and presiding omnipotence of the Creator ! 30 THE COnniLLERA OF THE SIEItliA MADUE. The impression left with mo, ami made by the peculiar irrit and appear- ance of the soil which overlays the plain of the South l*ass. is of a '• placer of kaoline," resembling- the biscuit from which porcelain is burned. This is disintegrated, and washed down from the bald mountain flanks of porj)hyritic jxranite. Whether there may be also here concealed immense placers of jrold an<l precious stones, cominjj; from the same source, is imt yet tested ; but such ought to be the fact, from the pure auriferous mate- rial of the mountains. To resume again the pursuit of the mountain crest. This continues to recover its altitude. Soon upon the eastern flank the Northern Pare, or Bull-pen, reveals it.sclf ; along whoso centre meanders the great Platte River, here running to the north in a direction contrary to the mountain crest. This is the fourth in number of the pares, but has been the tir.-<t and best known in popular reputation. Being very large, very central, and easily accessible to us going out from the lower ]Missouri, it became the first favorite winter home of the early trappers and explorers. It is an amphit'ieatre of large area, whose moun- tain walls, covered with soil, vegetation, and scattered forests of evergreens, slope gradually up on every side. Its level plain is laced with streams and checkered with meadows, sparkling with flowers and romantic grovi's. in perfectly graceful alternations ; its atmosphere is genial and exhilara- ting, and the temperature mild throughout the year. Innnediately beyond the highest extremity of thejoiirfh, but upon the west or alternate flank of the mountain crest, the eye drops into the bowl of the f/fh or Middle Pure, expanding to contain the confluent streams which form the grand river of the Colorado. This pare is larger in area than t\\Q fourth^ but is vexed with far-pro- truding mountain spurs, narrow streams rattling over rocky beds, and a cloudy atmosphere, made fitful by the altitude and close jn-oximity of snow- dad mountain backs. This pare has its mouth towards the Pacific. Towering up from the mountain crest, where it divides these two pares, rises the snowy head of Long's Peak, who.ic eastern front beetles over the Great I'lains. from which it is seen for fifty leagues by tho.se who travel up the Basin of the Kansas. Still immediately follows on the eastern flanks the Bai/ou Sahtdo, or South- ern Pore, which is the sixth. This is the mountain's bowl, scooped out for it.self Vjy the Southern Platte, as it desceiuls from the snowy cap of Lincoln's Peak. This pare has the same general characteristics as the fourth, but is greatly inferior to it in size, fertility, and climate, being closely heilged in by great mountains. I'rom whose snows descend ince.'^sant storms, and a i'ebrile dampness infesting the atmosj)here. From the same I- AM MADRE. THE conniLi.EiiA of the sierka ma due. 31 pcfuliar grit and appoar- tlie South Pass, is of a ivhieh jtnroolain is buriii'd. ! l)ald iiiduntain flanl<s of licrc cfiiicoaU'd iimiu'iise 11 the saino source, is imt the pure auriferous mate- glacier which surmounts Lincohi's Peak descends the Arkansas River upon the reverse sk)pe. The river has no pare ; it defiles into the plains throuj-h a canon. Here is discernible in the mountain crest tlie .same eurviliuear sweep as in the Wind lliver mass. Here occurs a similar concentric knot of moun- tain crests, rivers, and pares. But here the mountain crest, having curved outwaid to accompli.>h the separation of the Platte and Arkansas, con- denses into the snowy promontory of Pike's Peak, and terminates in an abrupt precipice to the Great Plains. At both of these remarkable focal points, nature seems to have insti- tuted a primeval conflict between the abrading power of the rivers and the stubborn resistance of the porphyritic durability of the mountain barrier. At the northern focus, the triumph of the rivers presents a com- plete harmony of the pas.ses, which enter at all points upon the plain of the South Pass, and connect across it. At the southern focus, the unscathed impenetrability of the mountain porphyry presents on every front its mural precipice of undiminished altitude ; here, then, the aus- tere rigidity of the mountain mass triumphs and admits no transit direct through. To complete the perfect counterpart resemblance between these foci, opens from the western flank of the mother crest, the Bayou San Luis, which is the seventh pare. This is, in physical formation and in every detail, the exact twin counterpart of the pare of the " Plain of the South Pass.' The Sierra Mimbres bounds its western edge, along whose base flows the Ilio Bravo del Norte. Elliptical in shape, level as the sea, equal to the third pare in area, encoinpas.sed by the sublimest scenery, abundantly irrigated by streams, 6500 feet in altitude, it has an alluvial soil of luxuriant fertility, and seasons eminently propitious to agriculture. It is in this delicious " Bai/ of the Sirrrns' that the current flow of time will find renewed, identified, and developec' all the charms with which Oriental narrative and .song have invested the lovely Valley of Kashmere ! The Spanish Peaks outflank the mountain crest under the 158th degree of latitude. From hence to the 2'Jth degree it .sheds the waters of the Rio Bravo del Norte from its western flank ; from the eastern flank descend the Arkansas and the Red River, flowing to the Mississippi, and the rivers of Texas, flowing directly to the Gulf. The whole front is masked towards the east with a screen of secondary 7H(',sv(s (tables) termed distinctively Unnos. These are immense triangular terraces, of half the altitude of the Sierra, resting against its flank, pro- 32 THE CORDILLERA OF THE SIERRA MADRE. truditi}^ uutward many hundred miles, gradually dwarfing in breadth until they terminate in an acute angle. They have an uninterrupted level surface of calcareous soil, a scanty herbage, and rainless atmosphere, an imperceptible dip towards their ter- minations, where they present an abrupt wall of many thousand leet in altitude, suspended above the Great Plains. All al(jng these mural flanks come out innumerable streams, which go to form the Arkansas, the Red Kivcr, and all tiic rivers which traverse Texa.«. Thus is explained the coui'usion which perplexes the public mind, struggling to arrange the physictd configuration of this immense region, as yet only partially explored. To the Mexican people who inhabit the higher mountain region, this is known as the lower plain ; by the people of the maritime region, who see from below its ragged front, it is designated as the Guadaloupe .Moun- tains, and by other names. But this system of llanos, seen most distinctly in Texas as the LImio Eatiicudo and the Lhtno of the liaki/ata, has an extent and magnitude on a scale commensurate with all the other distinctive formations. It is the coiitinu(jus screen or Piedmont which graduates the immen.se declina- tion in altitude from the summit crest of the Cordillera to the smooth expanse of the Great Plains. It ajipears from above as a depressed mesa ; from below as a series of ragged mountain chains. Geologically it is, as it were, a continental terrace or steppe, or bench of the sulphate of lime (plaster of Paris), elevated iibove the Great Plains, which are carbonate of lime ; deprc.s.sed below the Curdllkra, which is porphyritic granite. I may with propriety pause here to speak of the Basin of the Kansas, both on account of the fitness of the opportunity, and because this delicious country, surrounding the very navel of our continent and embracing its geographical centre, has from that fact a perpetual and paramount interest. The Kansas River has its extreme sources beneath the roots of Pike's Peak, where they have ceased to interrupt the plains. The Platte and Arkansas envelop it; and form a line of drainage between it and the Cor- dillera. But in front of the Kansas Basin the screen of the Piedmont is interrupted and disappears, so that the Great Plains stretch up to the base of the naked Cordillera, which reveals at one sight the towering masses of Pike's and Longs Peaks, and the curtain of snowy mountains which connects them. A similar coup-iToeil is seen, as presents itself to an Italian standing upon the Po above Milan, whose eye sweeps the Plain of Lombardy, and ascends to the snowy summits of the highest Alps, without any interven- ing objects to interrupt the vision. A similar resemblance to the Alpine THE CORDILLERA OF THE SIERRA MADRE. 33 formation which characterizes the parti.'.lly-explored masses immediately to the west, has acquired for them the local name of " TIelvetiaii Mountains." From these two peaks, — Loiijr's Peak to the nortli. and Tike's Peak to the south, — as from twin radiating points, the riedniont expands from the eastern flank of the Cordillera, like a half-ojien fan. Towards the north are the Medieine-Pow 3Iountain and the Laramie Plain ; towards the south, the U.itono Mountain, the Llano Balsiffeta. and the Llano Estaeado. Such is an effurt to delineate and ela.ssify the ]>roniinent physieid features of the Miilhir (^>r(/iflrrn of our country; the .serrated axis which forms its core; the system of pares; the system of river.s and mountain spurs; the jieaks and mc.sas ; the system of llanos. Its m.'iterial mass is primeval granite. Volcanoes, active or extinct, craters and their i,<iiieousdi.schar<;es, are not found. (The.sc exist upon the Pldtcnn and in the Andcn beyond.) This Cordlllfra is auriferous throughout. It contains all forms of minerals, metals, 'H.;nes, ,«alts, and earths ; in short, every useful .'^hape in which matter is elsewhere found to arrange itself, and in all the geological gradations. The prominent agricultural feature of the Cordillera is fertility — pastoral fertility. Stupendous peaks and battlements exist, extreme in bald and sterile nakedness ; plains there are blasted with perpetual aridity and con- gealed by perjjctual frosts. The space thus occupied is small ; indigenous gra.sses, fruits, !'nd vege- tables abound ; it swarms with animal life and aboriginal cattle ; food of grazing and carnivorous animals, fowls and fi.sh, is everywhere found ; the forests and flora arc superlative ; the immense dimensions of nature render accessibility universal. An atmosphere of intense brilliancy and tonic tout! overflows and embalms all nature; health and longevity are the lot of man. It is necessary to be condensed and brief. A million of interesting facts are left unraentioned. Then the Cordillera of the Sierra Madre is but a third part in area of our " moiiufain formafion." If the inquiring spirit and jiatriarchal fire of Jeff'erson and of Astor .still burn in the jiop- ular lu'art, the continental mission of 1770 will revive and reanimate our generation. Counterfeit geography, promulgated with official dogmatism, will cease to be fashionable, or to defeat the divine instinct of the people. Patriotism, pioneered by truth and genuine science, will reveal and com- prehend our fOH^('«^)j^r? geography as if is. huge in dimensions, sublime in order and .symmetry, a unity in plan. Our political and social enqiire, expanded to the same dimensions, harmonized to the same checkered variety, will assume a similar order, a like ,«ymmetry, and crown hope with a similar solid and enduring perpetuity. CHAPTER III. THE PLATEAU OF NORTH AMEUICA. It is now twenty-sevon years, nearly a full generation, since I suliniitted to the scrutiny of science and the public "^t Ilyilrographlc Map of Xoiih America,'' exhibiting in daguerreotype the cardinal physical archi- tecture of our continent. Upon this is exactly defined the Moinifuin Formation, inclosing the Plateau of the TaJ)le Lands. This subdivision of our country, amounting to one-third of the whole area, conies now in the bounding march of empire, to have a necessary, an intense, a pre-emi- nent interest to our people. Undoubtedly the scheme of Independence, inaugurated in 177t), sus- tained through the fortitude of the Revolution, and consummated in the Union of 1787, contemplated and conimeiieed a Continental Republic! In the ripening of time, we are now called upon to receive into this con- tinental Union the indc.-pcndcnt ai.d equal States of the Plateau, and to construct across it a complete system of co)itinental railwai/. How it is that immense facts, dormant since creation, and noticed only to be unanimously rejected by human society, flash suddenly out of mid- night obscurity, and by a single step plant themselves upon the very throne itself of public attention, may be thus illustrated : Columbus, intent upon discovering a direct route by sea to Oriental Asia, died with- out any thought of the new continent, or knowledge that he had seen It. Amerigo Vespucci, a younger navigator, identified the new continent, established its existence in the popular mind, and gave to it his own name, America. Thus, in 18-42, commenced to agitate itself throughout America, the energetic geographical movement, to reorganize the column of central pro- gress artificially stagnated in Missouri since 1820. Exploration, conquest, the conversion of the wilderness, have since advanced with intense celerity. As is the case with all normal instincts: war, peace, domestic and foreign schemes of opposition, have each contributed to precipitate its advance and fire its activity. The American people are, then, now advancing, victoriously to plant 34 MERICA. nenitioii, since I submitted A Ilydrngraphic Mop of lie eanlinal jiliyf^ieiil iirclii- tly defined tlic Moinifnin Lands. This subdivisiuu whole area, comes now in sary, an intense, a pre-emi- inaugurated in 1770), sus- 1, and consummated in the I a Continental Republic! jn to receive into this con- ites of the Plateau, and to ental raihcay. B creation, and noticed only flash suddenly out of mid- themselvcs upon the very ms illustrated : Columbus, Oriental Asia, died with- (vledge that he had seen it. intified the new continent, nd gave to it his own name. f throughout America, the 3 the column of central pro- ?20. the wilderness, have since war, peace, domestic and ntributed to precipitate its ncing, victoriously to plant ™^'^'''«if!^m'f<''m^msmmm^^^^rf?9^''^ 17.". Itio U*< Ml ll.'i II ^t'" •'^ at' / / H rr» ■f) E 5 ..l'^ *U \t ty«n f.' \'t HI / /:■ / . <- / /nOHTm DtvO N^. rOCV^BURN »//■ »B<M'. Z' /- ■\<** ''jH» /" / /; ■'■:■'. i' '^^ / * '^A- \A t^ -:r^^ /- / ; r \ - li xt"v"W ■.\\Vcn-. ■,■??/ .M , fi^ '^riy** '■Malta Ifl e '?^, ',V^" '"1(4,., *•*:. '"»f .Ymk 5S^v y. "'4- > H ■'f'n<-ir^u ..I'l'' ^#* :%' Un,l,l,l> M f E ^/, •^vv *»ll •Vr. "■U- T''^ H-. "'/'•</ t U-*. »v: ».J»' «47? lf»/(/ Hit kfitt \ •'<- ufV ■' U^JHTfr y^T- Snjx "•^' P'".«i!i'4 '> m /J f/ >, ^ — -v->^-- f N C. 'iSte. ;i^, Oak f'l-/rlf/. ft .ii jijL./.' \ *. brAXJCTMN 0> o ^ ^ iiTVAri. r r WIS .>. 111 an('liu'i» <u^- nfv' ubmiiK* SKA I O \ W. W ■f / -V, •pi" ■.V'CV .L^ Iji'THH «IT(l- >pTT?nu"''"''^ 1 nusfl A iu«\; ,lw,v-.iii i»;. K, H — ._. i.Kci '^.7^^^' )^,v-»^V's" ilcinocrnf IKIVclty V I'latoan, : Messes elm fii tliO tii'y thi.s ; iiri'l (Icino jiowcr in t A sill (;oi Kurojp,. Jill The inn ♦iiicnf. exfi is iiK^loscfJ liraeini.' flii Ciisfiian ,Se; flow ill to til This t,'rcii Jiiiineval in I.ifituiie.s ;J5 niilcs. Such is tj filjre is inijJ fill. WekJ hiirharians |J to the seas, These cojivj of Europe, Sueh is a I for the higj I'ojiiWations.l The Pf,A Seas : the ij large rivers,] ranean. It Here is inspired civ| systems of 'vligion, trii^ Porpetuate el the earth anl THE i'i..\TF..\r OF yoirrif amkukw. 35 ili'tnocrntlc einjiirc co-ctiual with tho area of tlu> CDntiiiciit. Tl..- utiiihI iKiVflty wliii'li rises in t'nmt. is tlic /'/ufimi nf flir Tulilr Luiulx. Tliis I'latiMU, iiiL'losi'd widiiii tlu- ('unlilli'ras nf tlio Muiiiitaiii Foniiatinii, pns- HosHtw eliaraftcristics now to niankiiid, and about to arre;*t the attention and sway the mental enerjiieH of Anieriea. Ill tli(! first jilacc, it is necessary, l>y reference and coniiiarison, to ideji- tity tiiis Pliilidii ; to discover wnat and whiTC it is; and tlience to tro un and demonstrate its area, its climate, itH capacity, and its ^'eofrrajihical jiower in the world. Asia contains two jilateaux ; Smith America, one; Noiih A»nerica. one. Europe and Africa have jixeat mountain chains, ])ut no jilateau. Tiie immense I'lnfpnii of Asni oecupies the central rejrion of that con- tinent, cxtendin}; ea.st and west from the I'ontic Sea to Middle Chiiin. It is iiurloscd hetween the Himalaya IMountains and those of Siheria, em- hracinii the uiiper and lower jilains of Thihet anil the prcat lakes, the Casjiian Sea, the Sea of Aral, and the IJalkash Sea, witli the rivers that flow iiito them. This !j;rcat space is fenced im])erviously from the oceans by a circuit of ]irimi'val mountains: it extends cast and west 4S(I() miles, between the latitudes ;{5° and r)0°. Its average breadth, north and south, is 1200 miles. Such is the immense cimtinental plateau of Asia, of which our knowl- edge is imperfect, as to its po]iulation and the grade of civilization they fill. We know that from jirimcval time, periodical swarms of conquering barbarians have descended down its flanks and delngcd all the continents to the seas, convulsing cmjiires and disjilacing all organized societies. These convidsions have extended to the extremities of China, of India, of Kurope, and into Africa. Such is a short and significant memorandum of this plateau, remarkable for the high antiquity, the numbers, and the uniform barbarism of its populations. It is entirely north of tlu' isothermal temperate zone. The Phifcait of Syria occupies the .space between the Vcrsian and Keil Seas : the Dead Sea is within it and the peninsula of Araliia : it has no large rivers, but is flanked by the Euphrates, the Nile, and the Mediter- ranean. It lies across the Isothermal temperate zone from edge to edge. Here is the original birthplace and cradle of human history ami inspired civilization. Down its flanks have descended all the ethereal systems of the world, which enter the heart of men and inspire true religion, true knowledge, political liberty, and which erect, enlarge, and perjietuate civilized .society. Hence have gone forth to the extremities of the earth and to the human i-ace throughout all time, the genuine oracles 36 Tin: PLATEAU OF XOllTIf AMKIUCA. (){' < 111(1 ri'vcaliiif: rclipmi and lihcrty. to acliiovo tho eonqufst uf iJolatry anil Ijaiharism, and disjilace tlu'ni from tlie luiman heart. IJcncath tho e((iiator, upon the summit of the Peruvian mountains, is the I'/iifidii (if thr Aii(ff- ilcrc was tlic delicate empire and system of the Incas, wlneh w'''.iered before I'izarro and tlie Spaniards as a vine before the tropical siroc. It contains ilie Laki, of Titicaca, ami is witliout larjre rivers. Of excessive elevation and aridity, small in area, arduous of access, and approachable only thnui^h torrid lieats which .surround its base and flanks, this Plateau is entirely vithoiif the belt of the isothermal temjierate zone. Such are the three other I*lateaux. We now approach the fourth — our own — the P/oterin of Xorth America. I have heretofore written of this Plateau : " I speak witli preat diffi- dence : but of all the departments into which science has arranged the physical geography of the globe, this appears to me the most interesting, the most crowded with various and attractive features, and the most cer- taiidy destined eventually 'o contain the most powerful and enlightened empire of the world. •' ^\t present it is no more known or comprehended, ns it is, by the Ameri- can peojile, than was America it.self by the poet ITomcr. It is to them as much a myth as was then the continent of Atalanta. Nevertheless, it is of such great area as to contain within itself three great rivers which rank with the Nile, the (Janges, and the Danube in length, and five great ranges of primary mountains." The A ndes. where it issues from the Isthmus of Tehuantepee, divides into tlie two Cordilleras of the north. The one pursues the shores of the Mexican Gulf; the other, the .shores of the Pacific Ocean. The Cordil- leras, .ontinuing to open from one another, run, with gre^it uniformity of I'v.!!: :!n;l altitude, through to the Polar Sea. At the 48d degree of lati- tnile they are 1 400 miles a.«under, which is here the breadth of the Plateau. 'i'he riiafirii CanUVcra is the Sierra JIadre (the ^lother Mountain); the in.tfmi CordilJvra is the Sierra Nevada de los Andes (the Snowy Andes \ T' i ;. ili(>n. the whole immense area encased within the Cordilleras from Tehuaritepee to tlie Polar Sea, is the I'lateau of Nfirth America ! The Cordiiloras have a general altitude of 12,000 feet ; the Plateau, of (JOOO. The I'la'oau is 4000 miles in lengili. having its direction from .southeast to nortliN^e.st ; its superficial area is 2,000.000 sfpuire miles. The portion within our territories is one-third of the whole country. Such. then, are the geographical position, the t.rea, and the altitude of the I'/dtuni. Its lo)iffitv(h'nnl position is remarkable, having its extremi- THE PLATEAU OF XOHTJf AMERICA. 'M y^^{ of idolatry n mountains, is ami system of liarils as a vine , aii'l is without in area, arduous Icii surround its 1" the isotlicrmal the fourth— our with ?rrcat difli- has arranged the most interesting, ind the most cer- and enlightened t ,\ by the Ameri- cr. It is to them Nevertheless, it rreat rivers whith gth, and five great huantepec, divides the shores of the can. The Covdil- re-it uniformity of 43(1 degree of lati- idth of the Plateau. Mother Mountain); \ndes (the Snowy ,c Cordilleras from th America! The , Plateau, of (3000. tion from southeast miles. The portion •y. •in<l the altitude of having its extremi- ties within the equatorial and the polar zones ; but its groate.st breadth and area is across tlui Isothermal tempei'atc zone. Its whole western front is closely flanked by the Paeifio Ocean; its ca.stern front by the (iiilf of Mexico and the Calcareous Plain. It erects it.self continuously along between these, and either connects them together or separates them asunder. The I'latiMu has a general configuration, simple as a unit in the physi- cal geography of the globe ; the details are infinite and eomplicated, all marked by a grandeur in harmony with its va.stue.ss. In the elements which attract and perpetuate the social bust of civilized men. no other region can assert or hold communion with it. It denominates as a stand- ard, which can have no ecpial. It is subdivided into seven great basins, which succeed one another in order from the south towards the north. The basin of the city of Mexico is x\\ii first and niosi ...lown. A central lake collects the waters of the basin, which has no drainage to the sea. The secuiiif liMsin is the Bolson de Mapinii. The Laguna d(! Majiimi collects its waters, and is also unconnecti'd with the sea. Thesi! basins are divided asunder by the Sierra of Queretaro, which connects the Cor- dilleras acro.ss. The flihd is the basin of the Rio Bravo del Norte, which is divided from the second by the tran.sver.^e mountain chain of the Ilio Florida. Tills innn(Uise basin is drained by the rivers ])A X(jrte, Pecos, and Conchos, which, uniting against the Sierra 3Iadre, gorge it by a canon and form below the Rio Grande of the Mexican Gulf The_/o(';'^/( is the basin of the Colorado. The great Sierra Mimbres divides these two basins asunder after the manner of a backbone, from which their waters dt-scend down the reverse slopes. They are longitu- dinal, ])arallel, and overlap one another. Distinguished by stupenilous vol- canic phenomena, they ])re-eminently constitute the inrtolJifrroiii^ rf't/inii of the world. The cijnfluent rivers of this basin, where they unite to form the Colorado, gorge the Andes by the wonderful canon of that name, and debouch into the California Gulf. Tile ///!'/' is the basin of the Salt Lake, divided from the itist by the great Sierra Wasatch. Within the vast circuit of its mountain rims are contained many stagnant lakes receiving rivers of fresh water. This basin hius no outlet to the sea. The si.rfh is the Itasin of the Columbia. The transverse chain of the Snake River Mountai'.is parts these two last busins. Here is .seen a n;.»st wonderful display of natural phenomena. Tiie Snake and Columijia Rivera, coming from opposite directions and penetrating immense mountains, unite 38 THE PLATEAU OF NORTH AMEfllCA. together, gorge the Audos at the C'liseades, and debjuch into the North Pacific lUeean. Th<! HiiTiifh is the basin (jf Frazcr River. The 01ynij)ian chain divides it from the Cohinibia. From henco the Phitear. continues its direction through a region as yet but little known, and opens out upon the I'olar Sea. If a thread be drawn longitudinally through the Plateau, e(|uidistant from the Cordilleras, it will bisect a line oi' sedimentary lakes resting as in the bottom of a trough. These are the Lake of jMexico, the Laguna, Gusman's Lake, the Great Salt Lake, the Pend-oreilles and Okanagan lakes. These waters have an average elevation of (JU(((( feet above the sea. The whole bulk of the Plateau has then the altitude of a primary mountaiii. If the stupendous features of nature are allowed their solenniity of impression, atid the ni.ijestie length and bulk of the {\)rdillera! be admitted, we may now understand what is the immense subdivision of our iiintinent enca,«ed within then. We may receive and handle it as a unit, assign to it a name, '• The Plateau," and identify its extent, its distinct- ive profile and position. The climate of the Plateau is local and pectdiar, but very uniform. The Cordilleras, by their altitude and remoteness from the sea. exclude the ocean vajiors fmin the Plateau. A rainless atmosphere, ])erpetually dry, tonic, and transparent, is the normal condition throughout the year. Alti- tude and aridity united, teni])er the heat towards the e(|uatorial zont ; the same causes temper the cold towards the polar zoiic. The extiemes of tenij)erature for the day and for the night arc great ; lor the .seasotis of the year, scarcely ])erceptible. In one word, the tempeniiure is uniforndy vtriial. Thus the genial and propitious climate of the isothermal tem- penite zone extends up and down the sunnnit of the Plateau, and is felt to both extremities! The soils of the Plateau are of the highest order of fertility, alike upon the mountains, the valleys, and the mesas or extensive i)lains. The dry anil serene atmosjihere converts the gras.ses into hay, and, preserving them without decay, perpetuates the food of grazing animals around he year. This gives to pasforai agriculture an infinite capacity for production and superlative excellence. Meat food, leather, wool, fowls, fi.sh, and dairy food are of spontaneous ])roduction. The soils, accuniulat<:d from the attrition and decay of lava and of carboniferous and sidphurous limestones, possess an exuberant fertility. Spots of arid sands are K'W and insignificant ; such as exist are from the uuril'erous granite, and contain jilacfv- «ii' gold. Thes^e soils, then, com- TnE PLATEAU OF NORTH AMERICA. 39 into the North lie of a primary posed of the essential elements of fertility and production, and warmed by an uiuluuded sun, need only irrigation to ferment their activity. For this, nature has i)rovided in the configuration of the surface and the infinite abunchince of snowy mountains, of streams and of rivers descending from their glaciers or bursting from their flanks. The descent from the longitudinal crests of the mountain ranges to the lowe.st levels, is everyAvhere by terraces or steppes arranged agiiin.st the mouutain mass. Across these are channeled the gorges of the descend- ing waters, coming from the gradually melting snows above. To guide these waters out upon these terraces and distribute them over the surface, involves neither excessive labor nor intelligence. It is understood and practiced by the aboriginal people. The laborious systems of culture to provoke germination, the uncertain yield common to our people of the maritime region of timber and uncer- tain seasons, are here unknown and unnecessary. A perpetual sun and systematic irrigation (im in Egj-pt) dispense with laborious manual tillage ; the use of the plow is not indispensable : the waters for irrigation descend Irom a higher level and are constant. The laborious extenuination of the primeval forest ; fuel and refuge from the inclement seasons of heat and cold ; periodical and uncertain inflictions of drought and saturatii)n ; dependence upon an atmosphere ever changing and forever fickle and treacherous ; none of these vicissitudes are seen or known upon the Plateau. The adobe brick, of unburned clay, constructs fences and houses, iidiabited more for domestic .-leelusion and convenience than from necessity. Upon the high mountain flanks, within the influence of constant spovt, exist abundant forests with the rank summer grasses and vegetation ; the proportion of these is ample and harmoniously distributed. The Plateau presents itself, therefore, prepared and ecpiipped by nature in all depart- ments at eviry ])oint, and throughout its whole lengtli, for the immediate entrance and occupation of organized society, and the densest population. Of this we hav,' an absolute illustration. It is where, upon the terraces surrounding the Oreat Salt Lake, three dec- ades of years have de^'eloped in the wilderness a powerful people, possessing in practice all the elements of mature and sta'ile society ; moreover, in the ease with which a numerous army has transported and sustiiined itself, without disaster or calamity, at the same remote destination. Accessibility on to the Platiau is wonderfully facile and unobstnicted over a tranquil ocean on the one hand, by the Great Plains on the other. Amidst the checkered variety which distinguishes the surface of the Plateau, the most systematic order is discernible. The tran-sverse moun- 40 THE PLATEAU OF NORTH AMERICA. tain chains are parallol to one another. They, as well as the great rivera, have tlieir eourses due north and south, and are longitudinal in direction. The only excej)tion is Snake Kiver, and the Snake Kiver chain of mountains. They exhibit a stupendous display of volcanic convulsions, extending over the basin of the Salt Lake. This is such as to excite the conviction that in primeval times the Blue Mountains of Oregon were unperforated, and between them and the Sierra Wasatch flowed a great river, discharging into the maritime basin of C^difornia. If this were so, the harmonious contiguration of the Plateau, from end to end, would be undeviating. The great mountain chains, six, in number, enumerated as the Sierra of Queretaro, of the Kio Florida, the Sierra Mimbres, the Sierra AVasatch, the Snake Eiver Mountains, and the 01yn\jiian chain, all I'orm continuous divides across from one Cordillera to the other. They are unperibrated by any running waters, and block ofl" the area of the Plateau into the seven isolated basins above named. Other mountain masses, branching from these sienus, protrude far out into the basins, are caj)ped with snow, and rival them in bulk and altitude. Such are the Sierra La Plata, the Humboldt Mountains, a!id tlie Blue Mountains of Oregon. Spurs and minor mountain chains appear every- where. The central regions of the basins are occupied by great plains, surround- ing the sedlnicntavy lakes, or forming the inmiense troughs of the rivers; \\c purcH are amphitheatres secluded within the sierras, around the sources of the great rivers. The most remarkable are the Pare of San Luis, the Middle Pare, the South Pass, and the Lava Plain of Snake lliver. Elsewhere the great rivers assault the flanks of the sierras and gorge them athwart, traversing them by profound chasms, and foam for liun- dreds of miles between jjcrpendicular walls of rock. Such caiions are seen upon the llio del Norte, the Colorado, the Snake Kiver, and the Columbia, especially where they gorge the CordiHeras to reach the seas. Such is the infinite assemblage of mountains, plains, great rivers, in every variety and nuignitude, that unite themselves to form the immense area of the Plateau of America ! The features of its geology arc equally various, vast, and wonderful ; both mountains and plains promiscuously ajipcar, of carboniferous and sulphurous limestones, lava, porphyritic granite, columnar basalt, obsidian, sandstone, accompanied by their appropriate contents of precious and base metals, jirecious stones, coal, marbles, earth, thermal and medicinal streams and fountains ; and all of these adorned by scenery forever vary- ing, fascinating, and sublime. THE PLATEAU OF XOUTH AMERICA. 41 For agriculture, both jiiistoral and araljlo, no n'i:ion of tlie world is niort' iiroj)iti()us, not even the Basin of the Mi.ssi.ssii)i)i, whiuli is by its side. One remarkable charactcvistie pervades idl the rivers: their waters are supplied (as are tliose of the Nile) from the high mountains whence they descend. Such rivulets as abound in maritime countries are not known, but subterranean streams burst forth and again disajjpear. This systematic feature at once demonstrates the porous nature of the soils and the fertilizing character of the waters. To revert again to the characteristic climate of the Plateau. It is con- tinental as contrasted with the nmvithiie climate's of regions open to the iufluenc's of the oceans and overflowed by their clouds and vapors. The Plateau is secluded from the presence of these clouds and vapors by the uninterrupted envelope of the CV)rdilleras, surmounting the line of pcriictual snow. These clouds and vajiors lodge themselves upon the sum- mits of the Cordilleras, and of such of the Sierras as have suflQcient alti- tude. From these the rivers are fed and descend to traverse the lower altitudes, and upon their summit are observable the atmospheric changes of maritime countries. Out upon the Plateau these changes do not reach. Here tlie constant alternations arising from rain-clouds are not felt. The atmosphere has a perpetual vernal temperature, unvarying, rainless, transparent, splendid, and serene. It is along the axis of the isotherinal temperate zone of the northern hemisphere that revealed civilization makes the circuit of the globe. Here, the continents expand ; the oceans contract ; this zone contains the zodiac of empires : along its axis, at distances scarcely varying from one hundred leagues, appear the great cities of the world, from Pekin, in China, to St. Louis, in America. During antiquity this zodiac was narrow ; it never expanded beyond the North African shore, nor beyond the Pontic Sea, the Danube, and the llhine. Along this narrow belt, civilization planted its system from Oriental Asia to the western extremity of Europe, with a more or less pel feet development. 3Iodern times have recently seen it widen, to embrace, with an imperfect fire, the region of the Baltic Sea. In America, it st:irts with the broad front from Cuba to Hudson's Bay. As in all previous time, it advances along a line central between these extremes, in the densest form and with the greatest celerity. Here lire tlie chief cities of intelligcTicc and power, and the greatest intensity of energy and of progre.«s. In 1S20, this middle column of the centre had reached tiic western frontier of Missouri, and ojiened trails along to the Pacific Sea; the 42 THE PLATEAU OF NORTH AMERICA. flanks were then behind, in New York, Lower Canada, and in Gcnrpia. In the uverwhohninj: revulsion of all previous political jtreeedcnts, which pervaded our Federal councils I'roni 181(i to 182S, atitniJ ]>rojiress was forcibly interdicted. Abruptly stopped by an Indian barrier and Draconic code, and forced to recoil for forty years, the flanks have come up to an even front upon the rijjrht and upon the left. Science has recently very ])erfectly established, by observation, this axh of the isothermal temperate zone. It reveals to the world this .>^hining fact, that alonjr it civilization has traveled, as by an inevitable instinct of nature, since creation's dawn. Finm this line has radiated intellijience of mind to the north and to the ■<oTith. and tmairds it all people have strug- gled to converge. Thus, in harmony with the supreme order of nature, is the mind of man instinctively adjusted to the revolutions of the sun and tempered by his heat. Behold, then, in the geographical position and features of the J'fufcnu of America, a crowning mercy and a miraculous liglit disjtiayed by God in our front, to illuminate for us the safe line of march and the whole area of expanding empire ! The central column of progress has already ascended on to the Plateau by the entrance of the South Pa.ss, and established itself on the fertile terraces that surround the Great Salt LaVe ; it is established in New ]Mexico, upon the Upper Del Norte ; it prepares to enter by tli. passes of Pike's Peak and the Arkaasjia into the delicious pares that surround the gold region of the San Juan ; it is upon the Columbia and Frazer Rivers ; it has al,«o passed over the Cordillera of the Andes, and it presents itself fronting to the east and entering from California. Such is the Pluteau q/*^l?H^r/r<;, transcendent in jiosition, immense in area, superlative in climate, fertility, and variety of configuration. Here are blended all the elements which distinguish the other plateaux of the world. Its longitudinal form ; the rainless character and ])ereiinial brilliancy of atmosphere ; its perpetual vernal temperature ; its alternate basins, ])arcs, and snowy sierras ; its great rivers ; its indefinite and pro- pitious capacity to produce and to sustain population ; its gold, metals, and gems ; finally, its dimiinant position, beetling over the Asiatic ocean on the one hand, over the Calcareous Plains on the other hand, continu- ously from the Polar Sea to the equatorial belt. These all arise succes- sively and together to announce to the American people their accession to the most attractive, the most wonderful, and the mo.st powerful de]iartment of their continent, of their country, and of the whole area of the globe. But the Plateau has the prestige of antitpiity to commend it to favor. It was liere that Cortez and the conquerors found the gorgeous empire of THE PLATEAU OF NORTH AMERICA. 43 tlie jMuntczuHiiis ! a polished people, highly cultivated, numbering many niilliiinM, and martyrs to their lieroic devotion to the arts of peace ! The .siuie marked characteristics still show themselves undiminished in the existing aboriginal people, thinly scattered to the extreme north ; curious, intelligent, and credulous, heroic and timid, vibrating quickly from super- stitious veneratio:> to despair. They invite and receive the white man as a new divinity, and then recoil, to shun him with hate implacable till death. This is my understanding of the Plateau of America, condensed to a general but a compact view. At my first entrance upon it in 1843, my impressions were far otherwise. Everywhere appeared novel phenomena ; nature wore an impenetrable complexity of features alternately fantastic, sublime, bizarre, and incomprehensible. Time, reiterated exploration, study, and meditation, have revealed it to me as it is, — in architecture transcendent, in an:itoiny symmetrical and con- sistent in every detail. It is necessary to ponder long before we may pene- trate the deep designs of Providence, or be permitted to comprehend the austere and perfect order with which natuvc is everywhere replete. hi CHAPTER IV. THE SIERRA SAN JUAN. i To command the gold and silver production of the world, and combine this with an intelligent policy, is to rule the world. The present ability of the American people to do this, will become manifest so soon as the geography of the North American continent shall become correctly under- stood by tliem, ar.d its economical development made a systematic policy. A few standard facts in physical geography and geology being currently grafted in to guide the popular mind, the ease with which the people of America will rise to the pinnacle of power and empire, and the necessity inc'imbent upon them to do so, become both simple and luminous of comprehension. I have in a former chapter defined to itself the " Great Plateau of the Table Lands," and enumerated the primary mountain chains, the rivers, and the elevated basins (seven in number) which checker its immense area. This whole aroa, together with the great flanking Cordilleras, is of the primeval, auiiferous formation. Although immense sa-idstone and cal- careous formations are frequent, and elsewhere igneous rocks have over- flowed thousands of square miles, these overlay a luiiform pediment of porphyritic granite, as uniformly yielding gold. The primeval gold-bearing formation, therefore, very equally divides the area of the continent, half and half, with the calcareous formation, which latter abounds with the base metals. Thus, within the present tfritorics of the American people, the precious stones and precious metals, pla.inum, gold, silver, quicksilver, exist in tl:e im yet partially deveit (i^l aalf, with the same abundance and universality ofdistrilution as do tl . ^'ate metals, minend fuel, and calcareous rocks, within the States. Investigation within " the great calcareous plain" has so far progressed, that we trace along its diagontd axis a metallif 'lous band traversing con- tinuously from the neighborlniod of Mior, en the Kio Bravo del Norte, to the junction of Coppermine IJivcr with the Arctic Sea. This band, reseuibliiig a .-word-belt suspended from the shoulder and knotted upon the hip, faver.^cs Texas in a direction ni'rth-nortlicast ; crosses Arkansas .-'.ud iSuuthcrn MiH:«ouri diagonally ; Noitliern Illinois, 44 THE SIERRA SAX JUAN. 45 rid, and combine le present ability 3t so soon tis the > correctly under- jystenuitic policy. ^ being currently ich tb.e people of and the necessity and luminous of at Plateau of the ha ins, the rivers, it^ immense area, ddleras, is of the idstone and cal- rocks have over- inn pediment of quilly divides the formaUon, which present tcritories melals, plaanum, ,xu [" 'I half, with lo tl : 'xii-e metals, ;o far progressed, id traversing con- avo del Norte, to the shoulder and 1 iKirth-iiortheiuit ; Xdrtlieni lUiiiois, Wisconsin, and Minnesota, and, brusliiiig the extreme shores of Lake Superior and Hudson's Bay, sinks into the Arctic Sea near the Magnetic Pole. Everywhere within this band the calcareous rocks and soils are )iemie- iiteJ with veins and native masses of the base metals, existing in a pleni- tudi' and purity . ufficient to snjiply the world forever. AVhat is seen and known upon the .'iiirface, indicates a sy.stcmatic order throughout in the relative jto.sitions of the dift'crent metals and their accompanying rocks and earths, as also in the localities where each exists in excess and may be said to culminate. Thus in the State of Misi^ouri iron appears protruding above the general level, over an immense area, attracting extlu&ive attention and the appella- tion of Iron Mountains, by reason of the immense formation of this metal, which displays itself for many hundred sfjuarc miles above and below the surface, la mass miu In ponltion. '"Jojiiier may likewise be said to cul.ni- nate, where it displays itself around the extreme waters of the St. Law- rence, in mam and in position. Thus likewise of lead, where it appears in indefinite abundainte by itself, in Wisconsin, Misi^ouri, and Arkansas. Tbe existence nf tiu- base nu'tals of native jmrity in ?«a.s.< mid in pnsifion, on an imnu'n.^i! scale and within the calcareous fovnuition of the basins of the Mississippi and St. Lawrence, is now become established. Tbe ques- tion arises, tberi.forc, whether there exists within the primeval formation any jarallel phenomenon, or any possibility of the existence, accessible to hu Man research, of tiie precious stones, of gold, silver, and tlie kindred j.rccious rif^tals, in mass and in position. Tiie po.ssibility, and, even more, the prohability of .such a develojimcnt resulting from persevering exploration among the sieiras of the Plateau of the Table Lands, becomes distinct as their geological configuration is ' evealed, We have seen, in a former chapter, that the Cordillera of the Sierra Madre presents within our territory tW(.> ri'inarkable foca) culminations, — the one grouped around the Wind River ^lountain, the other surrounding Pike's Peak. These are about four hundred miles apart; th^y are con- nected by the continuous chain of the Cordillera, as by a curtain. Either one, contenijdated by itself, fills the same significant place upon our contiuent, as does the Alpine gror;- surrounded by tin; kingdoms of Europe, in the topography of that continent. A parallel altitude, grander bulk, larger rivers, the sublimest scenery, a rainless atmosphere, and a foundation of bro.'ub'r and more •iriHddini'iisions, distinguish our 'ontinent. T<i all who a..LH>nd tlie gre:'.t phans in the iwighborhood of the 39th degree of latitude, tbe snow-crested mu.-s of Pike's Peak, 15,000 feet in 'li! 1 1? ,'M r^' N c. ■'- - - *, ''^ •>*, ^ y \*.. 0>^V y /, k/ ijTA.virt'd.v l»niiij»il"'<l"'"'VjS(>'f*<»''' ""T" ^ '- S ft, A S K A J I O ' W. *;v.. y^V ^-0 .<V.M If. \ \ i .^ 1 •V ^ T,^'^ h t N\ R R I T R Y l''Ul'""'-»n^- ViJ aJjx'hiiliiiro " '^"^ "'"f^QA '-i*' % + %x fc' -dt'HTIX I'l^ v. > O V^.J'"'* V •^-A Sau^lWviuo *^W. >.l*jA', J SEW <mi.KAN*; «^ ^'^Svf ii,\f;«TOW UTOJKV - ^31.^J i" ^ if' "3 ^ Ik r JKki: -■ ^ " J ]^K>.9 ^||UkyJ KT'" 1 ^ [--^Wm. BPR fcfcSi^^. *c^ .-I- >:mM Kir .%:(Ai" 01'' N OUT 11 AMKllU A ih^liiM^aliiKk ilii* MOryiMX SrSTIJM xynnsniTArLS, WW (»1U:AT ( AL( AUKOl S plain as a IMT, <////'/ //ff fffiihii/Ktiis c/ffi rr/ Nit/ MARITIME SELVAGE. II. 40 THE SIERIiA SAX JVAN. altiludo, and seen at a (listaiiec of 10(» miles from its base, is a prominent object. Tliis iKiik beetles over the jilains, jirotrutlinfiout as a promontory froni (lie Ciinlillera. with whieh it in fiijrnif'ted by an elevateil ri(l^:e. Krimi tlie nnrthirn flank nl' this ridjru det^cend the waters of tlie t^outh I'latte. which, first forniinj: the Pun; of the liaynu Sntddo, flow out into the plains to the northeast ; from the southern flank descends the Arkan- sas, which defiles by a cailon and issues forth into the plains towards the siiuthcast, The Cordillera, from whoso eastern flanks both of these rivers descend, curving towards the east, divides asunder the waters of tlie two great rivers, the Arkansas and the Kio Bravo del Norte. From the west- ern bank (jf the Curdillera, opposite to Pike's Peak, j)rotrudcs similarly aninimcn.se mountain iiru-nontory toward the .south ; this is the SlEKKA San JlAN, the local name jjiven to the northern culmination of the Sierra Minibres. The Sierra Mimbres, departing from the Cordillera under the 39th degree of latitude, traverses diagonally athwart the Taltle Lands, having a due southern courae. It joins the western Cordillera in the Mexican State of Durango, in latitude 23° 30'. Its course coincides with the 109th meridian. It is 1200 miles in length. It is a continuous mountain mass, dividing the Kio Bravo del Norte from the great Rio Colorado. The immense basins of these rivers rest against it as a backbone. The Sierra Mimbres is a mountain chain of the first order in length, massiveness, and altitude. It is entirely within the area of the Platea uf the Table Lands. It abounds in volcanic phenomena and pedrigals of lava. Its eastern bank is scored by canons descending to the Del Norte ; its western flank, by the affluents of the Colorado. The variety and gran- deur of iN geological features and metalliferous qualities surpass all other mountains. It produces the precious stones. Within the States of Chihuahua and Durango its flanks are mined for silver, and contain twenty-one known deposits of that metal, which for three cetituriet; have supplied the silver and silver coin to the world. But the labors of the Spaniards have not penetrated beyond the Gila River. It is the poraon north of this river and within our territories which is most interesting. Throughout the whole system of the Andes, it is upon the plateaux and high mountain flanks that mining is profitably pursued. Such is the fact in Chili, Peru, Brazil, and Mexico. It is upon the Plateau of the Table Lands within our territories that the metallic resources chiefly abound. The whole system, then, of primeval mountains, occupying the western half of the New World, is uniformly auriferous. It is where the mountain THE SIERRA SAX JVAS. 47 siuiiniit ftprendH out to cnibruce the jiro(lij.'iu\i» oxpnnso of the three con« tiiruiius imtuiitaiii bawiiis of the Del Norte, C'dloriulo, and SaU Ijiike, that till' iiitcriiiil Vdli-aiiie powers of the globe exhibit their effects upon the iiKWt stupoiiilou.s scale, Friiiii this pediment, haviiifr an altitude of 70()() feet, rise the two bisect- ing: mountain chains of the plateau, the Sierra Mimbrcs and the Sierra Wasatch, by which it is subdivided into these three specified elevated liasins. This immense expanse of continent, presenting; a unilurm mass of the elevated auriferous rocks, places the equally prand abumlance of the precious metals beyond conjecture and above doubt. Hut the Rio Colorado gathers into its one channel the larfre rivers within its basin, namely, the Ilio Verde, the Rio Grande of the West, the Eagle, Dolores, and San Juan Rivers. It launches its whole force against the interior flank of the western Cordillera, perforates this Cordillera by a ciinon, tunnelled diagonally for 557 miles through the very roots of tho mountain mass, and reaches the ocean at the head of the Gulf of California. It is this solitary fact in physical geograpliy, new to human research, and of transcendent interest, that here arrests and fixes the attention of every mind. The dorsal mass of the Andes, thus perforated through from base to base, and athwart its course, by a river of the first magnitude, is formed, to its snowy summit, of the upheaved auriferous and igneous rocks f Nowhere else throughout tho globe has nature waged so stern a conflict, nor are similar phenomena elsewhere seen. Upon the other continents, great rivers are seen descending from the flanks of primeval mountains, and gorging their outflanking spurs ; here only is this universal law of nature defied, and the arcana of the inn.'^r world revealed, surrounded by details of the austerest sublimity. Such is one of the stupendous novelties of our own mountain forma- tion, which arrests tho attention and summons the enthusiasm of science and the energetic ambition of our people. Nature here abounds in a vast variety of formatioP3, '^ajh upon the same miraculous scale, and all sublime. Volcanoes, whose flames and eruptions appear to have ceased but yes- terday; immense plains of aelem'te, fringed with fantastic mountains, called cristones (pendent cockscombs) ; mesas, surmounted by prairie plains of wonderful fertility ; vast regions of forest upon the irrigated mountain flanks ; crests of perennial snows ; pares of secluded and romantic beauty, having a perpetual verdure, and the temperature of per- petual spring; canons, incagcd by perpendicular mountain walls of roseate sandstone, wrought by corrosion into every form of sculpture ; mountains permeated with broad veins of gold and silver ; others having emeralds 48 THE SI Ell HA S.\X J VAX. and tho riibv ; f|uicksilvcr is known to giisli forth and deposit its globul(« in t'lc r(uif:li meadows, ealled '■'• s'.cmirkas." Tliennal streams of all varieties of sanatory waters burst, as subterra- nean rivers, from Ixiicath the ovcrhanginfj: peaks and mcsfis ; niduntains of porphjTV and of rock salt an numerous ; vast niouiitain ehains (tf car- liniiifernus limestone, ehaniiiuir tbroufrh all variefi".. of the richest marbles ; iron is I'ound in moimtain ma.sses ; copper is scarcely less abundant. Petrifii-tions, obsidian, <-arnelians, agates, and chalcedony pave immen.9e regions. Fuel of coal develops itself in beds of unrivalled extent, depth, and conipactiiess ; caves sparkling with transparent frescoes of crystallized selenite. An abundant flora of the most delicate forms, colors, and fragrance ; a perennial pasturage, overrunning the mountain flanks and sunnnits, on whicli millions of aboriginal cattle subsi.st round the year, as tisb wilhin the sea; a i'at fert.lity in the soil, at once uniform and universal; rivers, streams, and fountains, absolutely inhnite in number and of miraculous convenience and distribution. Over all this nether world, so checkered with a gorgeous variety of forms and jiroductions, both upon the surface and beneath, floats the aerial atmosphere, shining with a perpettial .'ipicii lor unknown in regioIl^= of less altitude and less remoteness from the sea. ])ry, tonic, and exhilarating to the taste, infused with the direct solar warmtli, filtered through the ether that surmounts the atmo.'siilierie vapors, the embalming atmosjibere t'v t" :dl nature with a silvery splendor, constantly shining, and constantly » ene. The night.T have an opposite, jienetrating coolness when th" solar rays are withdrawn and his direct beams are (juenched ; the canopy of resplen- dent stars has a parallel sublimity with the day ; the transparency of the utinosphereand its serenity are the same. Klectrif storms, short in duration and at long intervals, periodically renew the irrig.iting snows upon the niountains, refresh the air, temper its dryness, and restore the rivers. Why those busim and sierras of the Plateau should be especially metal- liferous, becomes evident ])y reference to a few radical principles of geo- logical research. If ((uicksilver. water, oil, and alcohol be poured into a hollow pil!ar of gla.ss, these licpiids will subside, according to their specific gravities, into iayei-s in the ..bove order. If gold, iron, wood, and feathers be thrown in, ihey will similarly sink, the gold to the bottom, the iron to the (|ui(ksilver. the wood to the water, the leathers to the oil. If this eobinip becomes solid by congelation, the .same arrangement will remain, the gold being sedimentary to all, the iron beneath the stratum THE SIEIillA SAX JUA.X. 49 t its <ilobul(« of frozen water, the wood beneath the oil. Everybody is familiar with tlie manufacture of shot ; each globule of liquid lead precipitated through the air is formed, by gravity, into a sphere. The globe of the earth, 8000 miles in diameter, is similarly formed, the congealing substances arranging them-selves, as the shells of an onion, from the centre outward, according to their several specific gravities. I have often boiled rice in an open camp-kettle, when traversing the mountains and my daily march was done ; the rice finally subsides in mass to the bottom, but the water remains of a milky whiteness. This whiteness is caused by minute, buoyant particles of rice, of altered specific gravity, suspended throughout the water ; congelation into ice fixes in solid form both the mass beneath and the suspended particles. This homespun illustration makes clear the cause of the diffusion of grain-gold throughout the auriferous rocks. To be found in nuigx and in position, it must be sought sedimentary, beneath these rocks. All that we have as yet found is granular, in scales or minute lumps, set free froir. the upper rocks by disintegration or corrosion, and descending the moun- tain flanks with the sands abraded by the torrents. But we have seen that the Cordilleras and the Sierras of the Plateau are formed of the auriferous rocks broken from their horizontal beds and the edges vertically upheaved some two or three miles in altitude ; more- over, the Cordillera of the Andes is gorged athwart its roots by the cafion of the Rio Colorado. Is it not, then, possible — even probable — that sufficient exploration may here reveal to the miner the precious metals in mass and in jyositiori ? The scientific writers of our country adhere with unanimity to the dog- matic location somewhere of ^^ a great North American desert.' Trav- el lers, under their promptings, especially search for it. It has been located sei-iatim in advance of the settlements, in Kentucky, in the Northwest, ill ^Fi.ssouri, upon the Plains, in California. No explorer or witness who hat failed to find a desert is allowed credence or fame. Yet there is none, either in North or South America ; nor is the exist- ence of one possible. On the contrary, the least fertile portion of our con- tinent is the silicions maritime slope of the Atlantic States, whose climate is .' iso the most inhospitable. Yet here is no desert, and none anywhere else exists. This dogmatic mirnffe has lately receded from the basin of the Salt Lake ; it is about to be expelled from its last resting-place, the basin of the Colorado. The anatomy of a dwarf or an infant is identical with the anatomy of a giani. The details and relative proportions are the same. Habituated to a common medium standard, it is the size which is marvellous to us. li 50 rilF SIEIillA SAN JUAX. Our senses are bewildered by tlie novelty ; our judf^inents wander — ^but the object seen is a reality. To antiquity — even to t'.e modern day of Columbus — the Atlantic Ocean was a mysterious abyss, an impenetrable Tartarus. By degrees the field of the eye expands, the mind dilates, fact by fact is .surmounted, as an acclivity is made ea.sy by a stairway. The miraye is dissolved, the higher standard is reached, grows familiar, is approved, and is firmly embraced. It is to European minds that we owe the as yet elementary sciences of physical gcogra]>hy and geology. The founders of these sciences have reared them by hiving the slowly-developed details of nature, collected by exhausting patience within the small basins surrounding the cities of their residences. Thu within the small basins of the Thames, the Seine, the Arno ; upon the flanks of the Alps, the Apennines ; in Calabria, and around Fingals Cave, have heretofore been found the most popular illustrations to nurse the infancy of these sciences. More than si.xty yeare of intense meditation has inspired the cosmo- politan genius of IIi'.AiiJOLDT to scan the terrestrial globe with an expanded vision. He only has s])oken worthily of America to her own peojjle. In him we recognize the intrepid pioneer who invites us to understand the gigantic proportions of our own great country, its order, its s^ynimctry, and itx grand simidicity of configuration. As Columbus led forth navigation and commerce, from its lengthened tutelage in the Mediterranean Sea, to expand itself over all the oceans and to every continental and every island shore; so now, this venerable pioneer of phj-sical science and the arts, marshals us on to penetrate the arcatin of the land, to fit .society to the broad foundation of the continents, and rear a comity ol" civilization coe([ual with the globe. It is in Europe that CoLUMnus and IIu.mbo'.dt have had their nativity and their residence. It is for America that t.i^y have lived ; to us they belong ; apostolic citizens of our destiny ! The area of the department of the Platrnti of the Tahh Land, embracing the three elevated basins of the Salt Ijake, the Colorado, and the Rio Bravo del Norte, is ef|uivalent to France. Austria, Switzerland, and Cisalpine Italy combined ; its rivers are equal to the Danube, Rhine. Rhono, and Po : its metalliferous mountains are pre-eminent in bulk, number, and granileur. In rcadiiivss to receive and ability to sustain in perpetuity a dense |io])ulation. it is more favored than Kurope. Fertility of soil of the high- est order is the dominant and unil'orm characteristic of this immense THE iilEUHA SAX JViN. 51 wander — ^but region. The mouni-iins are rarely abrupt or rugged. Tliov are sur- mounted by mesas, descending by giijantic terraces called tiwuMiK. The densely crystalline primeval rock'* yield but slightly to atmospheric corro- sion in the regnlarity of a continental climate and seclusion from the sea. It is the decay of lava, selcnite, and carboniferou.xlinu stone ilmt forms the soil. The pastoral fertility is developed by nature, which sustain* its aborigi- nal herds as fish in the rivers and in the sea. The arable fertility needs the care of man, and awaits the economical development of artificial irri- gation. For the reception of this system, the whole structure and contour of the surface is fitted, and the natural waters abundant. Reflection will recfdl to memory the magnificent empires of peopie. possessing a highly-advanced, but imperfectly-organized, civilization, found established along the .summit of this Plateau, con(|nered by Ct)RTEZ. .•Vlvau.vdo, and 1'izarro. On the summit of the Southern Andes, in Chili. Peru, and around Quito, on the Northern Andt's. in Central America, and Mexico, dwelt twenty millions of popnlati,)n in the aggreg-ate. Three centuries of subjugation have dwarfed this aboriginal people to one-half of their original numbers, and radically altered their religion, their lancruasje. and traditional manners. Tliev have touched the lowe.«'t point of decadence, from which they will again slowly ascend. This peojile had no fixed science in physics, religion, or politics, to prop and protect their system from the shocks of time; no na'igation. no prin- ciple of perpetuity. Tlu..«e have now come to them with the EiirojH'at! column, bringing with it the ark of regeneration. The peciUiar agricul- tural and social sy.stem of the Mexicans under the Montezunias, extended up the basin of the Rio Bravo dci \ort«' to the ba.se of the Sierra San Juan. Our people are marching to the same | oint fnnn an opposite diiec- tion, bringing with them the social habits of the isothermal zone and a maritime climate. I have spoken of this remarkable focal culmination of f lie Eastern Cor- dillera, fronnvhich two snowy promontories protrude, back to back ; Pikes Peak to the northeast beetles over and subsides into the Plains; the Sierra San Juan, to the south, beetles over the Plateau, and subsides into the Sierra Mimbres. Radiant mountains and streams diverge from this point in every direc- tion, and form abundant pas.ses, direct and practicable, to and fro, betwet-n the basin of the Missisisipjii and the Plateau. The three reniarkable purrs — the Middle Pare, the Rayou Salado. and the Mayou San T.uis — all approach close together the dividing crest of the Easti'rn Cordillera, over whoso summit they imujedialely communicate. i 52 THE SIERRA SA\ JVAS. I know not hew adequaU;ly to delineate this knotted group of all the colossal elements of nature. To subujit the unenibellislied facts is all that is necessary, were this possible, where the elements in "ompact contiguity are so many, so varied, and each of such colossal granuour. To exag- gerate is far from my intention ; to enumerate the detiiiis t)f nature, as I have seen them, with austere simplicity, is my aim. Heboid, then, to the right, the Mississippi Basin; to the left, the Plateau of the Table Lands ; beneath, the family of Pares ; around, the radiating backs of the primeval mountains ; the primary rivers, starting to the seas; a uniform elevation of 8(MI() feet; a translucent atmosphere, a thousand miles removed from the ocean and its influences ; a checkered landscape, in which no clcnunt of sublimity is left oat , fertility and food upon the surface ; metals beneath ; uninterrupted facility of transit ! Behold the sublime panorama which crowns the middie region of our Union, fans the fire of patriotism, and beckons on the energetic host of our people. The American j>eople number fifty millions in strength. Two millions change annually tb.eir place of residence. The oracular instinct of conquest burns in every heart ; this is the continental mission of '7ti, proclaimed from the traditions of Jamestown and of Plymouth Rock, and thence becjueathed to posterity ! The column of pioneers (engaged during several years in planting the St^ite of the Kansjis basin) has pas.sed over the rim of the Calcareous I'lain, and debouched upon the base of the primeval mountains. Gold has been found at the fii-st trial and upon the threshold at Cherry Creek, upon the eastern flank of Pike's Peak, and elsewhere. A few seasons have sufticed for them to ascend, by the Arkansas and the Bayou Solodo, to the mother crest of the Cordillera, whence the basins and sierras of the Plateau expand beyond : " The I'loHils nl'Pve us to the whifo Alps fond, And wo must j ieroo them, and survey whate'er Mny be permitto i . ns our steps we bend Ti) that most great nud growing region, where Tho earth to her embrace compels the powers of air." Let us here pause to reflect whether the traditional history of our race does not, on its very front, ilhistrate what ])roniinence awaits this Imiffi- tv(h'u<i( Pfafrnn of our continent, descending thus by terraces into the Mississip])i Basin on the east, to the I'acific Ocean on the west ! The exi.stence of the em])ire8 of Montezuma and the Incas exhibits upon these Table Lands the only examples where our aboriginal people rose above tin absolute btirbarism el.'cwhere, upon the lowlands, as universal and as level as the waters of the seu. THE SIEIiRA SAX JUAX. 53 mp of all the acts is all that act continuity IT. To cxaji- )f uaturu, as 1 ■ft, the Plateau , the radiating iig tt) the seas; sre, a thousand jred landscape, food upon the I region of our crgetic host of strength. Two racular instinct mission of 'TU, iiuth Rock, and in planting the dcareous IMain, Gold has been >eck, upon the ave sufficed for to the mother i)f the Plateau oiy of our race aits this longi- rraees into the AVOSt ! Incas exhibits joriginal people ids, as universal All around the head of the Mediterranean Sea, where it penetrates the Asiatic continent, its basin is encircled by a j)latca\i. or amphitheatre of elevated plains extending round from Suez, ((tntiiiuously through Syria, Asia Minor, and into Greece. This descends by terraces to the sea-sl<ore. Upon this I'lateau have been, among others, the cities of Babylon, J*al- . niyra, and Dama.scus ; upon the sloi)es to the sea, Alexandria, Tyre, Jeru- .silem. Tarsus, Byzantium, and Athens! What cardinal element have we, in the immense ment^il systvui of our civilization, which has not come to us and with us from thence? Hence (^from this I'luteau of Syria) have resounded through all time and into every heart, the direct oral teachings of Jehovah and of Jesus ; hence have issued forth the miraculous alphabet and the numerals : hence have come the cereals and animals of our ayjriculture, wine, and fruits : hence our religion, law, social manners, history, music, i)oetry, anil arts: from hence, as from tiie cradle of nativity, iiavo issued forth for our inheritance, to abide with us forever, " the unconquerable mind and freedom's holy flame !' Everybody is acquainted with the Gulf Stream of the Atlantic Ocean. This colossal strciun, recoiling round the circular sea of the troj)ics, and receiving the oozy sediment of the Amazon, the Orinoco, the Magdaleua, and the Mississijipi, launches out into the middle ocean. Its silent current roils the tepid waters and sandy delin'.s of two continents a thousjind leagues ahuig the bottom of am ocean : it banks them up upon the margin of the Northern Sea, to form the submerged continent of Newfouudlaud, and the tvbyraphtc pluteau. Similarly has flowed, for fifty centuries, a'iong the isothermal axis, the human current, wliich bears with it the immortsvl tire of civilization r-vealed to man. This central current has reached the Plateau of America, vp which it will ascend to plant the sacred fives over its expanse and shine upon the world with renewed elfulgence. Such is the res])lendent era and the gorgeous jiromi.se unveiled to huntanity. The arrival of this is nmr announced by the indefinite gold i)r('Juction and jiastoral power of the interior, domestic region of our continent and country. M i CHAPTER V. THE SOUTH PASS OP AMERICA. From the previous chapters, it will })e perceived that one who travels from Paris to Pekin, by the direct route of New York, Kansas City, and San Francisco, traverses these physical divisions : 1st. The Atlantic Ocean. 2d. The Atlantic 3Iaritime Slope. M. The AUc^rhany Mountains. 4th. The Basin of the Mississippi, 'jth. The Cordillera of the Sierra Madre. r>th. The Plateau of the Tahle Lands. 7th. The Cordillera of the Snowy Andes. 8th. The Pacific Maritime Slope, ilth. The Pacific Ocean. This route brinjrs into immediate juxtajxtsition, ii/i>ii</ t/w fuDf/imiKil nxi.s. the great permanent reservoirs of human poiiulatiou and activity — Wegleni Kurojte, America, and Oriental Asia, If it be practicable to accommodate all tlie international transjtortation of the three continents by tliis route, a prodigious conden.sation of economy in the interchanges of the products and jieople oi' the world Avill be accom- plished at a blow. The distance of transit will be reduced from the circumference of the glol)e to the length of its diameter — the time to oiie-teufh. Steam by sea and land will form an uninterrujited trip by two ocean ferries, connected by a transit niilway. Thus will be solved the geographical problem which has agitated the world Itefore and since CoLfMHlTS. Practical experiment has long since exhausted all discussion as to the pa,«sage of the two oceans by .steamers, and of the American continent by railway, so far as tlie Atlantic Maritime Slope, the Alleghany, tlie Basin of the Mi.s.si.'^sippi, uj) to the wall of the Cordillera of the Sieira .Aladrc, and the Pacific Maritime Slo])e, are concerned. Serious arguments of any difficulties within the.se divisions of the whole distance have been long .settled and have ceased. All that remained i-nigmatical to the public mind, and unresdlved, when the.xe notes were lir.>*t ])enned, was the interval occupied by the C )rdillera of the Sierra Madre, the Plateau of the Table Lands, and the Cordillera of tlu' Sierra Nevada, which conjointly form the •' tuinmtnin fonnathtn oj North America," extending continuously from Tchuantepec to the Arctic Sea. 54 How this cc breadth, is to i lislinieiit of the them. It is b people and the that of exit oi now and in all There exists sixsijipi, a perf( prestige, and hi furnish a lumii •iVmerican peop The area in of the surface i Pontic, Propon Danube, the Ni imperfect navi<j sulas of Asia 3 full with moiin The sea surf) short and detici where harbors rugged and isol Yet, from th to the Pillars w has existed a t and commercia The vestal has sore^ul out tem of the Bon It has overrun who are the di The " /iasin The ctuinterpar everywhere cli; is cverywlu're ; shore is in lei arable, of inexl no mountain, n uniform ]irodu( the universal n THE SOUTH PASS OF AMERICA. 55 t one who travels Kansas City, and 10 Atlantic Ocean. Mountains. 4th. the Siena Madre. lera of the Snowy 'aeific Ocean. Kj tfiv isothermal on and activity — nal transportation sation of economy irld will be accoiu- ctnnference of the Steam by sea and es. connected by a •robleni which has iscnssion as to the vican continent liy ejfhany, the Basin the Sierra Ma<lre, I arfjunients of any CO have been long 1 unresolved, when 1 by the (' .rdillera and the Cordiileni iitiiinformati'itii oj U'pec to the Arctic How this complicated barrier of immense mountai.is, 1000 miles in breadth, is to bcf surmounted, has obtained its illustration by the estab- lislinieiit of the Mormons in Utah, and the military expedition sent against them. It is by tlie iiouth Pans, which ia the gateway of the American people and their commerce to Asia, as has been the Strait of Gibraltar tliat i)f exit out into the Atlantic, to the nations of the Mediterranean, now and in all ages past. There exists between the Basins of the Mediterranetin and of the Mis- sixiiijipi, a perfect identity in position, physical characteristics, historical j)restige, and social concord. A comparison of the one with the other will furnish a luminous illustration, to explain the present generation of the .American j)eopIe to itself, and to guide all future generations. The area in s(|uare miles of tliese two basins is the same. Four-fifths of the surface of thu /on)irr is occupied by the salt-water expaii.se of the Pontic, Propontic, Adriatic, and Mediterranean Seas, into which flow the Danube, tlie Nile, the Po, and the Rhone, rivers having narrow valleys and imperfect navigation. Protruding out between these seas are the penin- sulas of Asia Minor, (jlreece, Italy, Spain, and the Afri(^in coast, all filled full with mountain vertebne, rugged and ])oorly adapted to agriculture. The seu surface is stormy and dangerous to navigation : the rivers are short and deficient in channel : the shores arc imjiraeticable to land except where harbors are constructed ; and the inhabitable lands arninged in rugged and isolated masses. Yet, from the first jtioneer voyage of Hercules down the Mediterranean, to the Pillars wliicli still immortalize his energies, to the present age, there has existed a certain imperfect compact in the political, social, religious, and commercial relations oi' the people of the Mediterranean. The vestal fire of civilization has never been entirely (|uenched. It has s'ii(>ad out to illuminate the whole area, both under the political sys- tem of the lloinaii J'jnpire and the religious system of tlie l{<>i»ii!! Church. It has overrun the brim, and is inherited by the mod-jin European nations who are the dispeisi'd progeny of Home. The " Basin of tlu; Mississippi" fills more perfectly the temperate zone. The counterpart of the salt water surface is a delicious, undulating plane, everywhere channelled by rivers navigaliU; to their very sources: navi!',:<tion is every wliere as safe and constant as iij)on a canal ; the line of accessible shore is in length absolutely infinite; the soil is uniformly cali^nreous. arable, of inexhaastible fertility, and suflliciently irrigated from the clouds; no mountain, no sheet of water, no swamp is anywhere found to bre.tk tlie uniform productiveness of this ininiiin.se expanse; no rapids to interrupt the univei"sal navigation of the rivers. I 56 THE S'jf'TH /\! «• 6 ^ AMERICA. Europe is bisfctedhy h Ij.i^u! fi;;iri!:;iiii ciuiii traversing it continuously, ecut and wtM, from (Jiln.iltar ( - ,^i)K!rit!, imderthe names of the Pyrenees, Al|ii-, ('iirpatliiau!*, and called Ity the !'<■ 'riH "-^ dliditia aqiKinnit" (the divide of waters). What, therefore, u outt<iJe of the Basin of the Medi- terranean is, for the most jiart, in the iidionpitable " Basin of the Baltic," its climate and general features not unlike Labrador. All alon;.' thii iiort/t(i)i front i)( tha '' Mississij)j)i Basin," expand beyond an impen(|itible barrier, the • Basins of the St. Lawrence and Sas- katchewan," similarly calcareous, similarly alioundinj; in navijjation, and only moderately inferior to it in fertility, in geniality of climate, and in area. The surface, then, of the Knropeati Basin is salt-water and mountains. That of the Aincrivmi Basin a plain of calcareous, arable soil. The former has 8 maritime climate, the latter a continental climate, superior in dryness and ssilubrity. The former has a restricted and dangerous, the latter an abundant and safe, navigation. In land-transportation the eontrast is still more strikingly diverse and favorable to the American Baain. The Basin of the iMediterranean, under the rule oi'the Roman Emperor Tka.ian. attained a po]>ulation of one hvndrea <nui thirty-'me miUions. This was then chiefly ccngregated in the eastern half; it is now in the western half, in which direction t\\c prest^ure always preponderates. xVt present the Basin of the Mississippi contains fir/htecn millions of inhabitants. Itwi;. conveniently su.stain cii/lttcen /(«/m//'«^ millions. This ?',■« now an imminsc empire. Comparisons drawn I'rom hi.story or existing empires, are very feeble illustrations of what is to grow uj) on this already radicated foundation. All the features of nature, all the principles of progress, social and political, are here original. This undulating plain, uniformly and nni- versally calcareous; this circular configuration, running flush out to the repelling lines of the Arctic and Torrid Zones; this miraculously-bal- anced variety of temperature, climate, prairie, forest, land, rivers, rain, and sun.«hine. minerals and contiguous expanses — now nvdile and now pastond — all these constitute an original order of physical facts, simple and symmetrical, but sublime. The rising of consecutive States out of the wilderness, erected by spon- taneous industry ; the unabating deluge of men daily pouring forth and daily jmshed onward by the hand of God; the rushing march of empire; the profound internal order and systematic economy which [Krvad<'s and guides this mass, more numerous than many armies ; the instinct of dis- (ipline and .<elf-govcrnment everv where felt and always obeyed ; no cen- tral military or religious jiower aiiywhcn; seen — all these array themselves to announce tli int<'ns( ly poten JS'i'mory will has bei'U the c( wlioK' African has been so ui its jierniaM' nee Contrast tlu Europe from ( Iludsons Bay, ing natio':alitie liarniiiny. no u the latter is a < in civic concoi having one (jlo Such are tlu the other. Tli In the niytholo of that struggl( ing its element terrujited act.s. In this dran Alexandria, B^ among a thous Actium, licpai From histor ye^ii-s, is appar in the niajorit; the minority, martyrdom. It has been first colonial o administration the whole sclu its arrogimce, hypocrisy and tice. which sli divine code of of the stable This missio characteristics T/IE SOVTir PASS OF AMRHICA. m to aniiouiu'c the presence of principles and power intensely wr»y/;io/ and inti-nsi ly potential in social ami jiolitical inHnences. I^iL'niory will su<rj;est how slow and narrow, until (|uite modern times, has been the coiumn of or<;auized civilization on the old continent. The whole Aliican coast of the Mediterranean is s«tcially seuii-barliarous, and has been so uniformly since the delu<.'e. Ujion and beyond the Daindie its jiernian' iice is tjuite recent and its lij^ht still crepuscular. Contrast the elements of society and their history, tillinj: the face of Europe from Gibraltar to Norway, with that of Amei! 'a from Cuba to Ilud.^ons Bay, both fronting t(» the west ! In the former ajipear distract- int: natio -.alities, dome.stic fonie and fraud, no systematic union, no moral Iiarmony. no uniformity of races, no intelligt'ut concord in religions. In the latter is a compact front, where all the?e elements rnvermd are Ijlended in civic concord, fired by a common hope, inspired by one destiny, and having one (iod, one httart, one aim, and one supreme ambition. Such are the characteristics ol' the two basins, contrasted the one with the otlier. They both slope to the Atlantic Ocean, and are face to face. In the mythological liistory of Hercules we reed the first intelligent record of that struggle for dominance over the Mediterranean, and a xi/xtem hold- ing its elements in harmony, which has been ever since a drama of unin- terrupted acts. In this drama appear tlie tragic sieges of Troy, Tyre, Atliens, Carthage, Alex.indria, Byzantium, Rome, Hhodes. (Jibraltar, Malta, and Sebastop*»l ; among a thousand combats by .sea and land the naval victories of Salamis, Acttum, Lepanto, Aboukir, and Trafalgar. From history, which is the narrative of this struggle of four thousand ye4ii"s, is apparent tlie perpetual incubation of military brute force always in the majority ; civic virtue and nmnicipal independence as uniformly in the minority, checkered by heroic resi .aucc and jjcrpet ;all_j -recurring martyrdom. It lias been the design of the American continental republic, from its first colonial origin, to rever«<! this doom ; to elevate civic concord to the administration of political power ; to su.stain it there ; to dispense with the whole scheme of military despotism without respect to its antiquity, its arrogiince, or the heretofore universal success of its subtle union of hypocrisy and force ; to inaugurate for mankind a code of j)olitical pnic- tice. which shall l«ring the science of government into accord with the divine code of morals and religion, cradhid 1S7I^ years ago in the manger of the stable r)f Bethlehem ! This mission of cine empire has for its oraetUar principle the physical characteristics and configuration of our continent, wherein the liimn of I t . i 58 THE SOUTH PASS OF AMEHICA. f tJie MtMninsipjii |(it'(li)iijiuatoH tm supreiucly ius tlio huh iiiminj: the plaiu'ts.* 'I'lif Ua.^iii fil" till' .Mcdit.tTiiiieiiii is, tht'ii, a surface of Imnrii sen, witli iiiouiitaiii nia.sM's, iiiij'iTlV'ctly HiU'tl for pojtulutiiui, jinitrudiiijf almvo it ; that of lln' Mis-sissijipi is a tah-arcous ]>hiiii t)f hiiul, every wliero iiiterhuetl and raiiiitied with iiaviu'ahle arteries, lioiu i.re traversed centrally by the r.i)(/t'(ic (if ( injiircM within which the current of civilizatiun has fluwcd in all a;;c!< /'/■"/;( t(i:<l tit irist. This current, descenJing the Mediterranean, and drawn in hy the con- verjiin;.' continents of Kurope and Africa, pours forth its whole concentrated Volume thnMiLih the su]irenie ]iass known now and in all a<res as the " J'i/dtrs of III rni/cs." What is acconiiilished hy this eonverj^encc of the conti.'ients of the Old World, in reducinji all the outlets of navigation, and con>ei|uently of all coumn ice, to the !<ingle Pass of Hercules, is aceouijilished lor our conti- nent by the " Mountain Formation." This is the .South l*a.-<s of North America, the exact etjuivaleut giiifflc pass, in uur continent of /(//((/-l(i(sins, to the iffi/f/-pa.s» of (.libraltjir among the water-basins of the Eastern hemisphere. The latitude is iu'^ 2V. the longitude 10!)^ I'O'. This is the .same latitude as Jki.ston, Bayonnj, and 3Iarseilles, in France, and of Trieste and Constantinople. To delineate the features of the tSoulh Push, so that the topograjdiy of tli(^ plain, the prodigious sierra.s whicli surround it, the jivers radiating out of it, and the gorges by which they coninieiice ibeiv gentle declina- tions to the seas, may all be grouped in oiw <jliinci',iis a jiortrait in daguer- rcotyjic, is not easy to be done. The pl.-iin is elevated 7501) feet above the sea ; it is beyond or mst of the ("urdillera; its .suriace of clay is so ab.solutely smooth as to admit of iinintcirui)ted vision, as over water ; it is in .shape a triangle, having very acute angles at the northern and southern jioints, and one very obtuse at the .source of Sweetwater, which is the eastern point. The western side, li(M( miles in length, corresponds with the bed of the Kio Verde (Green River), running directly from north to south, to which the whole plain slants. Immediately along its western bank rises the Sin-ni ]\'(iscitvli, forming a continuous mountain barrier towards the west; opjMisile the centr<' of this hypothenuse is the gorge of Sweetwater, envel- oping the eastern jxiint of the triangle ; the remaining sides extend lience, the one to the northwest, the <(tlier to the southwest. • Tlio North .Aiiicricnn rontinciit ic in rorm a fuhliinc niii]ihitb)'iitro, buiiig voncava in oonfigunitioii. All the other uoiiliui'Uts iiro vunnj:. THK SOUTH PASS OF A ME It IV A. M in iiinoii'' I lias tluwi'il ill litre, l)ciiij; coiicufa Alon^ the foniit!!', in longtli \y)*d miles, risos tlio .stnponJous luass of the CiiiililliTii, known lion; iontl/i/ us tho " Wiml Uivi-r Mi)nntain." Almig the lattiT u tiiiuilur mash (if tin; Cuidillera, but of inl't'iiur uititnilc, known IdciiUjj aa the; '• Table Mountain." The area of the Plain of the South Pu«s is about e(|uivaleiit to that of New Jei^sey. Its surface is of clay, resembling kaolino. of whieh jioree- lain is made, ami has the absolute smoothness of that material tiltered through water and eomjiacted by pressure. From the three angles of its rim issue the Sweetwater, flowing iii^t into the I'latte and to the Atlantie; the Snake Kiver, flnwing nortliiciitt to Walla-Walla, and thence with the Columbia to the North I'acitic ; and the Ilio ^'erde, south into the Bay of California ; by whose westera ufllucut also. Black Fork, exists the eii^iest ogress into the Basin of the (jrreat Salt Lake. JMost probably no spot on the globe has groujicd into one view so mach of intense grandeur in the variety and number of its physical wonders. From a single ice-crowned summit of the Wine/ River Mtiuntain are seen the gorges of the Missouri, Yellowstone, Platte, Colorado, and Snake Kivers, all radiating from its base, and each the equal of the Danube in length and the volume of its waters. Five primary chains of snowy mountains here culminate together to this central ujiex, from which they radiate out between the rivers ; the dorsal mass of the Cordillera reaching towards the north to the Arctic Sea, and towards the .south to the Antarctic ; the Sierra Wa.satch, the Snake River chain, the Salmon River Mountains, all crested with snow, and each having an unbroken length of 1()(K) miles. The South Pass is 1400 miles from Astoria. It is the same distance i'rom St. Louis. It is, then, in the middle region of the continent. It is the o/i/y ,s("«yfc p«.s.s through the '' Mountain Formation" from hence as far as the Isthmus of Tehuantejiee. From this comes the name South Fans, as being the most southern jkiss to which you may a.scend by an aflluent of the Atlantic, and step immediately on to a stream descending uninter- ruptedly out to the Pacific. This name is as ancient as the Pass itself Into it concentrate the great trails of tlu; bufl'alo — geographei-s and road-makers Ixtfori' the coming of man. The Indian, the Mexican, and the American, successoi-s to one another, have not deflocted from th*" instincts of the buffalo, nor will they, whilst the primeval mountains last in their present unshattered bulk. This is the continental highway of the ]ieo])le, through whieh millions have already poured to and fro with their children, their frei; principles, their cattle — assembled in caravans, on foot, and mounted — with wagons, 60 THE SOUTH PASS OF AMEKICA. Imiid-curtB, kiiupsuelct, iiixl lirinfiiiijj with tlu-in tlifir huuHt'lmlil god«, iind the tuhiTiiucIc of civil mid ri;lij{i(ius iilu-rty. Tlio South Puns is par fjxellince th»! continnital puM. The outlet tit the ea.stttrii aii^'le is known as the fjorge of the Sweetwater lliver, whieh dcHcends til tile IMatte; tliat ut the nortliern angle as the gorge of (Iros- vcntro Uiver, which descends to the Snake River. These are both short and slender mountain streams, ucerim|)lishing their descent in lieds uf the extremest sinuosity, hut without abrupt waterfalls. They l>otli flow fnuii chasms in the flanks of the iniineii.se mass of the Wind Uiver Mountain, which here forma au urc fronting to the west, und issue out upon the plain. But the plain ia traversed by a gentle d!clil<\ [lanillel with the iiioiintain base, und no more distinguishable than the bevel given by eiigineeis to any ordinary street. Against this these two streams are deflected into opposite courses, the former to burrow its way around the urc of tiie moun- tain to the southeast, the other towards the no it Invest. To one who observes this from the plain, there is presented a similar miraculous configuration of the land, such us displays itself to oik^ who, naviguting the Propontic Seu, beholds the Dardanelles upon his right hand and the Bosphorus on his left. Moreover, the sky is vithout clouds and rainless, the atmosphere intensely brilliunt, temperate, .I'.id screiu-, encompussed round by scenery of the austerest sublimity. But we have seen that the elevation of the South I'ass is 75(10 feet, and that Snake River runs continuously out of it by the most direct and favorable course, of 1400 miles, to the Pacific Sea, tuiinelliiig consecu- tively the Blue or Salmon lliver range of mountains, the western Cordil- lera, and all other transverse ranges and obstructions. Here is, then, an uninterrupted water declination through and across the whole ^'^ mountain formatiou" descending by a plane dijiping Jicv J\tA to the mile ! From the adjacent eastern rim of the Plain uf tlic Sonth I'ajss runs out Sweetwater into the Platte, »¥hich, tunnelling consecutively all the out- lying ranges of the eastern Cordillera, forms a similar uninterrupted water declination, in a very straight line of 1400 miles to St. Louis, descending by thti simie average dip i>i five feet per mile. Everybody is familiar with the existing railways, which, radiating from St. Jjouis and pursuing continuously the plains of the Ohio and St. Law- rence, outflank the Alleghanies between Syracuse and Home, and descend by the Ilud.son lliver to New York. The .Mieiiees which delineate ami explain to the human understanding the details of matter, i»s it fits itself in myriads of millions of variegated forms to fill oil intt^resting to t physical geogra This line of our I^iiion fron :tt;oil miles in I ri'os.sing one ri It ]ire>eiits to II nieiicing at the and debouehiii) From the Si out. Tllcy, to; tudinal, ]iariilli a])proa(-li the .hi Hanks, which n barriers. Nowhere, wi dividing barrie; pa.ss. Nowlier crest, and a cor east and to the The South I some l.'iOO )n atmosphere is Hence an Intm tonic and .saliil Along the n time climate a .scale as the sin so nearly ap]iri ]ilenitude. Human socii periods of barl feet. Manner! opposite, as tli- this harmony buleiit force di is lo.st ; as we empire ri.se. Nature here of configuratio THE sorrn r.iss or amkiiha. « forms til till ant tln! Niipromi' onlt-r nf tlio univereo, develop nothing so iiit(;rc.stiii^ to tlitt lit'iirt of civilixcii niaii un tlii.s xiii^lf Hul)liiiie t'uet of pliysital ;;('<i;iiiipliv in tlic sujiri'iii'' rii^iiu'trinj: i>f tliu Creator. Tliif* iiiif of gentiy-iinduiuliiig river-gradet* fiirdles tin- iiiiddif zone of our Union from sen to sea, in one sniooth, continuous and unliri>ken cord, ■'{(idd miles in iengtii. It fits t/i> Imtthtrnuil f/.r/jt of the temperate climates, crossing one river only at St. liouis, and outflanking all tin- nmuntains. It |irc.-cnts to us the counterpart of that water-line of the Old World, com- mencing at the extremity of the Kuxiiie, passing down the Mediterraiieau, and dehonching out into the ocean. From the South l'a.ss to Mexico the primary mountain ehaiim spread out. They, together with the great rivers wliich divide them, are longi- tudinal, parallel, and uiiperforated. The rivers grow deeper as they ap|iroach the .sea. increasing the altitudi and ahruptness of the niounlain flanks, which overlaji one another, and incrcjise and c(»niplicatc the mural harriers. Nowhere, within this interval, uro the mountains reduced to a single dividing harrier, nor are there jiresented anywhere the essentials of a single pa,ss. Nowhere is to he found a sufficient depression in the mountain crest, and a continuous gradation from the summit-crest, prolonged to the east and to the west, down both (h'clinations to the seas. The South Pass is elevattid 7')'MI fet^t above the seas, from whieh it ia some 1 '>(•(» miles remote. It has, then, a rontiiundil clliiuitf, whose atnio-sphere is tempered by tin? altitude and by tin; absence of moisture. Ileiiee an interne screuiti/ is the |*rominent feature, jierpetual sunshine, u tonic and .salubrious air, a vernal ». iiiperature. Along the roiitiiinittil //«rthe chHi,_'es from the continental to the mari- time climate and tire rvriid, gradual themselves with the Siime delicate scale as the surface slopes. Untfonnity u/ climate, from seu to 8e4J, is then so nearly apjiroaehed, that it actually exists ull along this line in absidute plenitude. Human society, in the current course of ages, vibrates to and fro through periods of barbarism. God and Nature endure con.stantly eternal and per- fect. Manners, religions, policies, change and becom<! barlarous or the opposite, as tluiy harmonize with fiod and Nature. Sciein-e devcK.ps how this harmony may be known and practised. As we recede iVom it. tur- bulent force dominates, lunnbers are dwarfed, civilization withei"s. liberty is lost ; as we approach it, civilization expands, charity snnles, order and empire ri.se. Nature here for us. upon our Omiinrtit. amidst a stupendous vastness of configuration, preserves an austere simplicity, which guides the instinct- I (\': THE sorrii PASS of AMKltirA. 'wo glinicf (if ('injtiit' witli uncrriiiff certainty. Hen! is tlmt continental lin", tlu' (liMCovcry nC wliidi mankind lian awaited with tlie keenest curiosity. In tlie n|ieness of time the liope of humanity is realized ; it is liy this that our jieople are idtout to construct tlie (oiiti'iinitdf liiiihniij. Jiike the re*':"lMent L'irdle with which anti((uity hound, in one chorus, the sister- hood of the Ura<;;-;, we will hehold united, hy one zone, the three sister Continents, Eurojie, Anicrica, and Asia. Hero, tl'.roufrh the heart of our u^rritory, our jiopulation, our Stat««, our citie>, our farms and habitations, will traverse the hroad current of com- merce, where [la.ssenjrers and carjioes may at any tinu- or jilace emhark ujion or leave the vehicles of transiiortation. Down with the parricidal trea.son which will hani.sh it fnun the /<»;«/, from amontr they"V(y//»', to forc'c it into the /«»/•;•<•« ovcun. outside of society, thiouirh i'orei^n nations, into the torrid heats, along solitary « in nitons routes, im|irisoned for months in great sliij)s ! This i'mttnuntitl liaihrni/ is an es.sential domestic institution, more powerful and more jterniaiient than law. or popular consent or jiolitieal cnnstituiions. to thorouirhly comj)lete the great system of fluvial arteries wiiich I'raternize us into on(> people ; to hind the tim sra-lxmrdH to this one continental I'nion, like ears to the human head; to radicate the founda- tions of the I'nion so liroa<l and deep, and estahlish its struetrire so solid, that 111 jiossihle force or stratagem can shake its |iermaneiice ; to secure such si'ope and sjtace to progress, that erpiidily and jnosperity shall never be imjiaired or chafe for want of room. The ]iions veneration sjiontaneoiisly awarded by the human heart to men. whose lives exhibit exalted devotion and exalted success, iiispii-jng and jierpetnating in society the '' priiiriji/r of virtur (ihmyn in t.rnn'xr," has placed Hercules, the pioneer ol" the system of the ModiterraiK-aii, in the number of the immortal gods of anticpiity : a ((mstcllation in the ethereal caiio] dinrnally rciiev/s his mr>mory, his name, and his actions. Modern linn s. accepting the tradition, behold it stamped upon the coin of .S|)ain and the Indies, to obtuin a circulation as universal and i'amiliar as the human ra<'0. The American people pursue the planting of empire, advancing with intense celerity ; moving to the front according to a system understood and self-disciplined ; marching with the eudenco of an army of innumerable legions, uniting in one homogeneous order, with the same energies, a single aim. and rrshing to eonsuinmate a cnmmon ilestiny. .^'hining in the front of this marching hast, the pioneei and excni]il;ir. •'///-.</ in nnr. JirsI in judcr, anil Jirxl in ifiiliinifn uf his i<iHntrijimn." a|ip<'ai°s the t'orm THE suvru pass of ameiiiva. 63 of WasiiinOTOn, whose (inicular wisdimi and intrejiid (;onsfancy inspired tlie noniial ciiuiuils \vlu'»-o its iiioultl was cast, its strategy lixod, and its uiialtcnililc niissiiin first iiiau^uratod. Let tliis name, tlun, find a nxmu- nietil around whose base the condensed column of jirogress shall tile to and ' ' t'uring all future ages ! N\ here the summit-crest of our continent is found ; the focal source of its rivers and its sierras ; where the cloud-conijiellin'i Cordillera culmi- nates over the "Gateway of emjiires ;" let these commemorate this iudhc iiniiHirtally, while the <j;rass shall grow ami the waters run. as lirm and enduring as the loftiest mountain. Let the chililren of the world be taught to say : Bihold the Pass and the Pillars of WASUIN'dTON ! The history of the human race arranges and gauges itself by genera- tions. Tliirfy-t/irii years are estimated to be tin; pi.-riod of ccuitrol exer- cised iiv t'aeh generation over the long lil'e of a nation. As each sueceids its preileces.ior, ihe wcnk of i)rogre8s is reinvigorated, and fresh jiower and new coiKjUe.Ht.s accumulate. The present is the fi(jhlif-»l.rtli year of the Federal Constitution, and inaugurates the thinl generation of our united |)eo|ile. '\'\w Ju->il gave to us this sacred Union and foundeil our continental Ke|iul)lie. The xnoml has filled u]i the Atlantic half of the continent vith States, secured the maritime connections with that ocean and with Kuro|ie, and has bla/.ed for ns the way atio.ss tlie continent to the I'acitic an 1 to Asia. We, the /Am/ generation, receive I'rom them the jiious task to plant State's onward to that ocean ; to complete the zodiac of fraternal nations round the globe, and to set deep and firm to their outward dimen- sions the foundations they have laid. As we a.-^sume our task, illuminated by the example of their wisdom, energy, and glory, intent to equal them in the first and surpass them in liir rest, may we not repeat this invocation to the luminary of the universe, i.s he depiirts to usher in another day : — I ■ '■ 1 ho wcnry sun halh iiiinlc n hoMpd «<•?. AnJ, by tliu brij;lit truck itf liis fiery car, Qivos token of a gomlly ilay to-morrow !" Th h'I ,1 m CHAPTER VI. THE GREAT HASIN OF THE MISSISSIPPI. TllK most olividiisly roniiirkanlo pliysiral feature of America and of the iiiliabitt'tl j:l(il)e, is the Jinsiii of tin- MkmMlppi. Ah yet tlio pojmlar luiml doe.s not clearly comprehend its diinen.-^ion.s, and tlie underHtandinj; of it.- phy.sical characteristics is indistinct and vague. It is bi.sected througli its eemrc hy a supreme artery, which above St. Louis has received the uuuie of tlie Minsoiiri, and below, the MissigHipjii River. This is r»(l()() miles in length, and its surface is a continuous inclined plane, descending .seven inches in the mile. Into this central artery, as into a common tioiiffh, descend innumerable rivers couiing from the great mountain chains of the continent. All of the immense area thus drained, forms a single Ixisln^ of which the circuniferent mountains form the rim. It may also be called an (imphl- tlii litre, embracing 1,1215,100 sfpiare miles of surface. This has been, during the antediluvian ages, the bed of a great ocean, such as is now the Gulf of Mexico or the Mediterranean, above the surface of which the mountains jirotruded thenLsclves as islands. (Jradiially filled up by the filtration of the waters during countless iiges, it has reached its jtresent altitude above the other basins, oV(^r which the oceans now still roll, and into which the waters have retired. The " Jidxiit of the Af{itsliisi'j>pt" is, then, a j)avemcnt of calcareous rock many thousand feet in depth, formed by the .sediment of the superincum- bent water, deposited stratum upon stratum, compressed by its weight and crystallized into rock by its chenncal fermentation and ]iressiire. Jt is in exact imitation of this sublime process of the natural world, tl at every housewife ( > 'ipres-ses th(> milk of her dairy into solid cheese and butter. It is, therefore, a homogeneous, tindulating plain of the g/onii/iin/ or sedimentary formation, surmounted by a covering of soil from which springs the vegetation, as hair fnmi the external skin of an animal. Through this coating of soil, and into the soft surface strata of rock, the de.'^cending fresh waters burrow their channels, converging everywhere from the circumfi'rent rim to the lowest level and pa.ss out to the sea. In this sy.stem, which is the sanu> as the circulation of the blood in 64 animal life, the garden fountain, correspontling oi of contour in th( Such is this vi simph>, homogen The vegetation i and are mon; vai oceans, and with The in.sular si feet el(!vat*!d abo coming from the The plain of T.OOO feet above raiidess and witli Such are the ( Through the i one to the other, sensilile to a tni\ who does .so, the.> the diurnal alti>i the grasses indie palpably as tin All that porti River and th(' .' Indiana, IlliiioiH Arkan.sas, and S An irreguliir south and west i this iiue and tin ened liy .sliowers I'eyond this nourish tim!>er. narrow lines of and in thi. is!nn( and soft, arablt; of vegetation. The tcrminati the first, where about l.'iU mile tised, nor ncec.^s THE OIIKAT DASFX OF THE MISSJSS/PPr. 65 iiniiniil life, the MiKsoiiri Ilivor and the mimitoHt rill that flows from a gjirdeii roiuitaiii, lias each it.*« siieiific and c•(lns|)ieuou^ place. Heme the correspond in}^ order In the unijjiilations, the variety, and the complexity of contour in the surface and in its vej^etation. Such is this vast Basin, whose transverse diameter is 25(tO miles, and so sinipli!, homogeneous, and clear is the system of its <reolo<ry and its waters. The v»'<j;(!tation and climate have a like consistent order of arninfrenient. and are more varied. These vary with the latitude, the distance from the oceans, and with the altitude. The insular site of New York (Mty is upon the hank of the sea, is iti.rti/ feet elevat»!d ahove the .sea, and is constantly irrijrated hy the evaiMtralion coming from the .sea; it is in latitude 41° IW north, The plain of the .South I'ass is 2(100 miles from the sea ; is elevate*! 7500 feet above the sea; has no va|ior from the sea; hut an atmosjdiere rainless and without d(!W ; it is in latitude 42° ."50' north. Such are the contrasts in the elements ufieeting climate and vegetation. Through the interval between thest; two cxtrenu's Nature changes, from one to the other, by a graduation .so delicate and uniform as to be scarcely .si'nsible to a traveller who goes /rsx than the whole distance. Yet, to oni? who does .so, the.se changes are as pal])al)le upon the face of Nature, as an* the diurnal alternations of light and darkness. The timber, the floni. and the grasses indicate tint prese?iee and abs<'nce of atmospluric irrigation. a< palpably a,s the sun indicates the day. and the stars the night. All that portii^n of the Mississippi Hasin lying between the .Mi.«ssissippi River and th(! Atlantic, is densely timbered, excepting only u |M»rtion of Indiana, Illinois, and Wisconsin ; so also are the States of Louisiana, Arkan.sas, and South Mis.souri. An irregular line irom the head of Lake Erie, running towards the south and west into Texas, dtifines the cesiSiition of the timber. BetWtM-n this iiue and the sea exi.st« a continuous forest region, perpetually moist- ened by .showers from the ocean. I'ey.ind this line, and deeper into the eonlineii*. the upland cea.ses \o nourish timber, which is replaced by luxuriant aenual grasses, though narrow lines of forest continue upon the .saturated bottoms of the rivers and in &.i islands. This i.s the I'lairie r. ^;iti;; '.'.', luxuriant annual gn.'^ses. and soft, arable .soil, over which the fires iuinmdly sweep after the decay of vegetation. The termination of this belt is marked by an irregular line [Nirallel u> the first, when^ t!ie rains eea.se. and the t'lnber entirely di.sapiH'ars, It is about I'lO miles in width, and witliin it artifii iai iriigatioi\ ,> not pnu - tisod, nor necessary, it being everywiiere .soft, arable, and fertile. J m Tin: tiith'AT //.1.S7.V OF riii: Mississirri. El 'l To th IS HUecci'ds till- Mil init'iisi! rin'tiffSH wh'mu onwiird to tlio niouniaiiis, cxclusivfly JiiiKtiiriil, (il'a coinjuut noil, eoiitod with the iJ\vart'ltuft"iiiojj;rii88, witliout trt'cs, aii<l tlic alioiic of thcahori^rinal CMttlc. That no tK'S<'rt docs or ran exist witliiri this liasiii. is inanit'cst t'roiii tlic ahiindaiicc and nia<;- nitndr nC tlic rivirs: the iinilidin (idcaicous t'orniatii)n ; the alisontt' of u tro|ii(Ml sun its li in<ritudinal position across thi^ t« ni|it'rat(; zono ; an d the ^^n-atncss and altitude of the imiuntaiiis on its western ri ni. 'I'iie river system of the .I/Z.vx/.'.d//*/)/ /{iisiii resernldes a fan oi' [tahndeaf. Tile stem in the State i(f hnuisiana rests in the (iiilf; almve, the aftluiMit rivers euiivertie til it fitini all parts of the compass. Krom tin; tasl come in the II. ihitto. the Ymzim). the Ohiii. the llliiinis, and the I'luier Mis- sissi|ipi. I- rmn the ms/. the Ked It IVel pp, the Washita, the Arkansas, tht White. St. Francis, jnid Osaire Kivers. the Kinsas, the Triple IMatte, thi! Jilviu ipii Ciinrs. and the Vcllowstnne, all naVifiahln rivers of great length and importance. These rivers present a continimns navigalile channel of 22,5(10 miles, having t.*>.<M)ll miles of slmre, an anmnni of navigation and coast eiiual to th<' Atlaiilii- Ocean. The area nf the Mississippi Basin classifies itself into oiu'-and-a hali- fifths III' compactly-growing forest, the same nf prairie, and twndiftlis of great plains. Throngh ail of these the river .system is ramilieil as minutely com|ilc.\ as are the veins ami arti'ries of the human .system. The population is -M present I S.(l(l(l,(l(Ml, The capacity for population is indclinite. Comparison will illustrate this interesting fact. Society erects itself into o//y(//v.s- in order loarrixc at strength, civilization, and pcrmam-ncc. The most periect examjilc is the cm|iire of the /'unnnis, whose history we familiarly po.s.sess complete, of its risi'. culmination, and slow d ('(■line This s emiiire oc( u|>ied and fused into one political and social i-ysicm the /(usin nf lln Mn/ih irniititii, whose ari-a is l,l(i((,(> () sijuart n iloH. i •olli '.( o*' this they ne\('r passed, except into the corner of (Janl and Urita: lit !( •ted llicinsclvcs to the .NIe(literranean and I'oiitic Seas, to the .Vile, to the Manuhe, and (<> the Ithone. 'i'his em|iire, emiiraeing '.\ V ;i!mi\i, arc; . coi t. lined under 'I'r. .in and the Aiitoiiiues l!!! .(MMI.(IO(( of jMtpiiMi inn, .Miii lli.ii.e i.self, it; tiie gi'ograpliical centre, had a diameter (d' ;"jtl oiiie:* and !■; till. (Mill of iiiMaliilanlsI l»ii >h< Hrea oi'this Uasiii is. for the iiKisi r.irt, a salt water waste, into Avhici pHt'.riwi 'i.e |" linsiilas of Asia Minor, (ireece. Italy, and S[iaiii, tl U"ll> '1 with I mountain vertehriv, .ind al.so a i\'W islands. Spaeo for hal'/a i' i .■■ and ilie iirodiiciion of fooil is. therefc irce Th le e(piivaleiit, with us, ol' this salt surface and rugged mouiitaiusj is overywherc, an productive, Th and the front o amount and acci easily contain at inhaliitaiits ! If the eaicarec fronts, and the n Europe arid Asia. the existing hum This I'asin is ihe (Sulf, at the I produced. On th /one. Between we descend from ill posiliiiii it i the West bank o( and fertile prairii hy their confluent once of the N'ortli The circle de.^c pns,H throuirh Vd Hudson's ISay, t Cni.j. and the ci( will pa.ss throiigl therefore, thci/.-o tlie Basin of the It is also e(|u hlocked out into sites in (he iiow-e exactly in the mi tiiictly concentrat to the nnniher i occupying On'riif Europe has al wrsf dehouchinir AJii tlio niouiiiaiiis, irf buffalo ^rass, t no di'scrt (looa (lance ami niaj;- lic alisoni't' of a ; zone ; and the 1. iin ol' pahii-lcaf. ivo, till- artlut'nt n till! fist foino the rpiii'V MIh- (' Arkansas, the ri|ilc IMatto, the ' of jnrat lenj^th •f 2-2jm\ iniUvH, nl I'oast (Miual to ) oiu'-and-a-half- nil two-liftlis of ili<'(las niiniitoly m. y for ]iopiilation act. i;tli, civilization, of the lioiiiiiiis. iilniinatioii. and lilical and s'H'ial .!(i(»,<l (<.iuarc ncr of (iaul and ind Pontic Seas, ii|iirc, cniliracin;; ; llil.lMMI.OlMI of ad a diameter of water waste, into taiy, and Spain, islands. S|iaei! •ii'nrcc. I A mountains, is, THE OliEAT liAS'X OF THE MfSSfSSfPlf. 07 pverywhore, an undulatinjr. ralcarr im plain, unifonnly inhabital)li> and productive. The rivvji-s surpass the .sea i\ir the frei</hta<^(! of conunerce, and the front of land upon them exceeds the coasts of tin; oceans in amount and aece.ssiliility. The JinKi'ii of the Afissixxiiipi will then more easily contain ami feed ten timcH the pf>pulation, or l,;ilO,()00,000 of iidiahitants ! If th(! calcareous ])lain extendin/ Ut *ho .\rt^\f ^^a. the two niiirl'linc fronts, and the mountain formation, Im> •I'l/i^d. »ti4 tin- whoh' compared '/> Europe and Asia, 2,tM)U.()(M),(MM) will easily Am^ rf/Kfitt n ^.^btion d<*uW« the existin<r human race ! This Hasin is all within »he T,mfufate 7/,,*^ , %¥ «ym dx* 4MMW4f ihe (iulf, at the level of the sea. tropi<id fruitM. dow'er' }t*ii4 Si'0itlikmWK produced. On the hii;h mountain sIo|M's //'>»*< the V'e/<vf>^i/<« <^ ^t^ fitt^ Zone. Ihftween the.se arc 'ourid every kin4 <»f ii>rric,«|kur.il ^<A*it^vm, urn wi' descend from the extremes to fin- central Hi<''liuin. In position it is (•^■»ii<tiy iiiitr'ilx>> the continent. ,\'ot ft*r n^iw/^ (I'ttt the West bank of the Missouri Hiver, in the Imisohi of romarnfie '-ttt^y and fertile prairie, ia a H[K»t where the Smokyhill and I{<'publicii« Kiv«'«K. by their confluence, form (he Kan.sas. Thi* is Mu' <:eo;iraphieal centre at omc of the N'orth American continent, and of tin Hasin of the Mississippi. The circle described from this centre with a radii»^ to San Francisco ^vill pass throutrh Vimi'iinir tm the Cohnnbia, the |«>rt of Srvr/it Jliver on nud.>;on's I'ay, throujih (/n'lin-. through UtiKton, throuprh lliir'nm. Vera Cni::. and the city of Mv.rico. With a radius to flie A'M\t <J/-,'ree, a circle will pa.ss throULdi Afo/n'/r, Xcto Oilraiis, ,ind M>ilifj,.rilii This spot i«. therefore, thi' </i oyni/i/iunl critfn of tha North Aineriean Contiiienf and (tf the Hasin of the Mississijipi, both at once. It is also «'((ually the centre of th(> American Union, ;m it is now lilocked out into exi.stin^ States and into prospective States, to oceujiy sites in the now-existing TiTritories ! .Moreover, it is e(|uidi.stant from, and exactly in the middle between, the two halves of the huunin family, dis- tinctly eoneentrated ; the one half (Miristians, occnpyinir Western Kurope, to the luimber of :i ">!>,( MM),0(»( I of population; the other half Papins, occupying Oriental :Uia and Poh/nvsia, to the number of t!r)<l,(IO(l,(IO(> ! Kuro]ie ha.s all the outlets of its iidand seas and rivers towards the vent, debotwhing on to our Atlanlic front, towards which its whole surl'ace slopes. Asia similarly jire.sents to our I'acilic front an On'mtd/ s,'nj,i. containing her great rivers, the densest mas.xes of her poimlation, and detached i.slands of great area, den.se population, and intinite pro<luction. The distance IVom the Knropean to »he A.-ian shores (from Paris t( I'ekinj, travelling .strai<:ht by the continuous river liiv of the i'olomac. 68 THE (iUK.KT IIASIS OF THE MISSISSII'l'l. Ohio, ML-i-sduri, IMiitlc. aixl Snake lliverH, and uitohh the two rci'ans, m only 10,000 ^'(•(•<:ni|iliic inilus. This Htnii^'ht line is tlie iltU of that temperate zone of the Northern Hcniis|ihLTe of the ^.'lolie, thirty-three deforces in witUli, which contains four-tifths of tlic hind, ninc-tciiths of \\w {icople, and all tin; white races, coninicrciid activity, and iiidnstry of the civilized world. When, therefore, this interval o*' North America shall he filled up, the affili.ition of mankind will V.; accomplished, proximity recof>;nizcd, tii< dis- tniction of intcrvciiin<r oceans an<I eipjutorial licats cease, the remotest nations grouped top>ther and fu.si'd into one universtJ uud convenient system of immediate relationship. Such are ,s(ime of t! •niordinary attractions presented to mankind, as a social nia.-'s. hy tlu; {xisition and conli;niralion ol' the MixHt'iisi/ijii linnni. There is anuther and superlative prospective view. This jircsciits it.self in contrastinj; the physical conlif^uration of North America with the otiier continents. Europe, tlu' smallest in area of the continents, culminates in its centre info the icy ma.sses <if the Alps. From the {glaciers, where all the jireat rivers have their sources, they descend the declivities and radiate iv the difl'crent seas. The Danube flows dinntly ea.st to the Pontic Sea ; the l*o, to the Adriatic; the Khone, to the Sea of Lyons; the Uhiiie, north to the German Sea. Walled off" hy the I'yrcncan and ('ar-,uithian .Mountains, diverfreut and isolated, are the Tajius, the Klbc, and other Hingle rivers, affluents of the Baltic, the Atlantic, the Mediterranean, and the I'imtie Sea. Descend in}r./V«m common nidinnt jHiints wnd ilivc^iu^ every way from one another, no intercommunii;. nm exists ay, ,y^ the river» of Kun>|M' towards their ."ourct's ; nitWuation is) \,\ lUulfwlie. Art mid ommi tvc have never, durinu thiii> t-cnturii!* \itiiu-d so many suihII vulluyti. uimotvly isolat«'d hv im|K<netralile harrii^rw. Hem-* .iponeach river dw-lls a disiimt people, difft uiij; IVnm«li ih«*n>»l in n«>« lanjruac*', reli-jion, iiitor^'sts, ami hahits Thou>;h oIUmi fx-hh^^iNi/ amalpiuiatrd )>> cuit<|ue(«t. tli' apiiu rclapM' into frnpuentx. IV^iii iiMMiu i;eo^niphii ' iiicohiTeX'' u'< /iy/oti« crvi dn und tnjjifmiir^ foriu no iu«4\i enduriiit; ' ^ Thi t.ii t i «)»«•»*' nation- ' .1 ^tatjf of pei^'tual war, of mutual exu-rib itm an ip|«iilliug di»MHuti< cMUihtpie of a tew splendid xyttw iii*« er.-lun^ uiuliiiudin<>us aiitlioiivoi Hubmissive and unchronidcd H(>it«. KudH Hiniilar to Kiiidjm. though grander iu hik and {Ktpulatiou, a THE uhkat hasis of the MlSSISSiri'l. *;:« e two rof'uns, is From tli»( Htu|wiid(>UH cciifnil Imriior of the llinialiiyaM run tin- lour great rivvrs of China, duo caM, to ili.schar<;o tlu-nisclvt's umlcr tlic ri«in}r hum: towards tlie smith run tlie rivori* of Coeliin Cliina, X\w (Janp-s, anil tile Indus: towards tlu; inut, the rivers of tlie Casjiian: and hmf/i, throujrh Silu ria t« the Arctic Sea, many rivi-rs of the first ma^rnitude. I>uriiii,' fifty centuries, as now, the Alps and Himalaya Mountains have |iroved insu|)erahl(^ barriitrs to the amal;;aniation of tlu> nations around their ))at<eH and dwelling; in the vaUeys that radiate from tlieir slopes. The continents of Africa and South America, as far u« we are familiar with the details of their surfuces, uru evuu more tlian theue perplexed into dislocateil frafiiiients. In contruHt, the interior of North America presents towards lieuven an cxpandeil, roHcnvi: bowl, to receive and fuse into Inirmony whatsoever enters within it« rim. So, each of tJu- other continents prcsentin;; tlie cDiiri.r surface of a howl reversed, scatter everytliinn from u central apex into radiant distraction. political societies and (-mpires havi; in all aj;eH conformed themselv(!s t(» emphatic p'ojjraphical facts. This lh-m<irriit!r /i'ljnili/inni fiii/ii'rf of North America is, tlmn, /nn/isfiini/ to expand and fit itself to the coi.ti- ncnt ; to control the oceans on cither hand, and eventually the contitient.<! beyond them. Much is uncertain, yet through all the vicissitudes of the future, this much of ett-rnal truth is discernilile. In p'ograpby th(! unfit/iisix of the old world, in society we an; and will be tlu' reverse. Our North America will rapidly accumulate a population cc|ual!ing that of the rest of tlu! world combined : a people nno and indi- vi.sibh', identical in nninners, lanpiagi;, customs, and impulses: ])reserv- ing the same civilization, the same religion ; imbued with the same opinions, and having tlu! same political liberties. Of this we have two illu.st rat ions n<tw under our eye, the one passing away, tlic other advancing. The uliunijliitil Indian nice, amongst whom, from Darieii to the Ks(|uimaux, and from Florida to \'ancouver's Islaiul, cxinfc II |M'rfcct identity in hair, complexion, features, religion, st^iture, and huiguage : and, woNf/, in the instinctive fusion into one language and into <jne new race of immigrant (icrmans, Knglish, Norwegians, Celts, and Italians, whose individindities an- olditerati-d in a single generation. Thus, the perpetuily and ilestiny of our sacred I'liio!) find their con- clusive proof and illustration in the bosom of nature. The ])olitical storms that periodically rage are but the clouds and sunshine that give variety to the atmosphere anil checker our history as we miireh. The |Misheshion of the linnlii i>f t/ii' Misnissi'ii/ii, thus held in inn'fi/ by the American people, is a s<ipreme, u crowning mercy. Viewed ulone In I ! tP 77/ A' lilt EAT IIASIX OF THE MISSIfiSIN'l, itn woiKlcrfiil jKisitioii tiiiii cuiiacity iiiiion^ the eoiitinentH nnd (lie natittnH; Ti«-Wf<l. aliso, aH tlic (IciiiiiiKitiii^ |i:it°t (if tlic gnat ciilcarrdiiH |ilaiii i'Dniicd of till (•oiifrriiiiiiiiiis Ma.siiis nf tlif iMis'^is-'iiiipi, f>t. liawiriicc, Ilinlsdn'a Bay, ami Atlialiasia. tlu; aiii]>liilli(>ati'f of the wuilil — licir i,s Hii|ir<'incly, iiitli!i'(], the uioKt uiagiiifii-cnt (l\V('lliii<r-]jla(r> niarkiil nut fiy (jod for man's aliodc. Bcholil, tlicii, ri.>-iiin now and in the ftitnic. tlir iinjui' which imhi-ilry and !-<lf-goV(rnMicnt crcat*;. The growth ol' half a imlnry, hewed nut if the wihh-nu'tw — itw weapons, the axe and jihiw ; its taetii-, hdior and energy; its sohliers, free and eipial eitizeiiH. Ueliold tlie oraeular goal to which our eiigles march, and whither the thalan.N of our States and |ieo|ile moves harmoniously on, to ]ilant u nun- (fffil Slultn and consummate their drit; greatnewM. i ■ . .MditoBBawi— . . . U'Vl. t8 nnd the natioiiN ; I-IMIII8 |iliiiii i'lriiicil iwniifc, Iluilsdn's here i.H Hujiriincly, t by (iiid iiir man's ire wliiili iiiilii-ilry liiry, licwcd (lilt if til('tir>, lillldl' illlil li, iiiid wiiillicr iliu jii, tu |)liiiil u hiin- ^% .^.^. ^.^ ^\.V% IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 2.5 '- IP'S 1^ IM IIIII2 2 Ao nil 2.0 us 1.8 1-25 1.4 1.6 ■m 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation L17 V s y O "<^ V <«> 6^ ■<> ^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 '^^ ,.'< ■V ..%^ ^^^ 47* ^- ^ :J ^ <j>' o » 'S) ri? pt^ nMiij»rj»#» iX -k. nAK'>S i ■i < II I ill"" (.' I'lltoxa I iT i^r ? N -4-* K X5.. O n.fc>""'«TT / P M.„l. s \Li«f?r...">-'i ^-V *f^ i*",'){'5^'"'^ / — *^ I I N O V A /< , CHOCTAW r[ 1H.ATI0 N I '^ ,..»«" t /I: IB"'""'' fcfr^ \ • I There lias the true char; which pcrvud historic pcrio the (ipi)osite, and industry They are ( Tiu'ir positii whieh terniii on the west, tcesfern limit of!;rain of les? Arctic coasts There is ii a gentle slo)i clad thick w is not silicioii out to the n and to the T The niou between thei No portir from the mt lating and Storms are i the Rocky 1 The climi to irrigate r onts. They the basins t of the "Gi States betw( ffHf CHAPTER VII. PASTORAL AJiERICA. There has been a radical niisiipprelienslon in the poimlar mind as to the true character of the " Great Pldiiis of Aiiim'cn,'' as complete as that wliich pervaded Europe resjiecting the Atlantic (Jeean durinjj; the whole historic period jirior to CoLLMHUS. These J^LAINS a"e not th'scrls, but the opposite, and are the cardinal basis of the future empire of conmierce and industry now erecting itself upon the North American Continent. They arc calcareous, and form the Pastoral (Jarden of the world. Their position and area may be easily understood. The meridian line which terminates the States of Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, and Iowa on the west, forms their eastern limit, and the llocky Mountain crest their icesfern limit. Between these limits they occupy a loniritudinal parallel- ogram of less than 1(M)() miles in width, extending fnmi the Texan to the Arctic coasts. There is no timber upon them, and single trees are scarce. They have a gentle slope from the icvsf to the east, and abound in rivers. They are clad thick with nutritious grasses, and swarm with animal life. The soil is not silicious or sandy, but is a fine calcareous mould. They run smoothly out to the navigable rivers, the 3Iissouri, Mississippi, and St. Lawrence, and to the Texan coast. The mountain masses towards the Pacific form no serious barrier between them and that ocean. No portion of their whole sweep of surface is more thari lOOO miles from the most facile navigation. The prospect is everywhere gently undu- lating and graceful, being bounded, as on the ocean, by the horizon. Storms are rare, except during the melting of the snows upon the crest of the Rocky Mountains. The climate is comparatively rainiest; the rivers serve, like the Nile, to irrigate rather than drain the neighboring surface, and have few afflu- ents. They all run from iccst to east, having beds shallow and broad, a!id the basins through which they flow are flat, hmg, and narrow. The area of the " Great Plains" is e(|uivalent to the surface of the twenty-four States between the Mississippi and the Atlantic Sea. They are one homo- 71 i m :ti^; •li'i 72 PASTOIiAL AMERICA. gcncous formation, smooth, uniform, and continuous, without a single abrui)t mountain, timl)cred space, desert, or hike. From their ample dimensions and position they define themselves to he the pdntiirr-jit/ffs (if thf world. Upon them I'ASTOHAl, AOUlCLLTLllE will become :i separate grand department of continental industry. The ])astonil characteristic, being novel to our people, needs a miimte explanation. In traversing the continent from the Atlantic hcch to the South Pass, the point of greatest altitude and remoteness from the sea, we cross successively the timbered region, the prairie region of .soft soil and long annual gras.scs, and finally the Great Plains. The two first are irri- gated by the rains coming from the sea, and are araUe. The last is rainless, of a compact soil resisting the plow, and is, there- fore, 2>o-'<toral. The herbage is peculiarly adaj)ted to the climate and the dryness of the soil and atmosphere, and is perenni(d. It is edible and nutritious throughout the year. This is the " gramvia,' or " buffalo grass." It covers the ground one inch in height, has the appearance of a delicate moss, and its leaf has the fineness and .spiral texture of a negro's hair. During the melting of the snows in the immense mountain nuusses on the western frontier of the Great Plains, the rivers swell like the Nile, and yield a copious evaporation in their long sinuous courses across the Plains : storm-clouds gather on the summits, roll down the mountain flanks, and discharge them.selves in vernal showers. During this tempo- rary prevalence of moist atmosphere these delicate gras.ses grow, seed in the root, and are cured into hay iqyon the ground by the gradually return- ing drouth. It is this longitudinal belt of perennial pa.sture upon which the buffalo finds his vinter food, dwelling upon it without regard to latitude, and here are the infinite herds of aboriginal cattle peculiar to North America — buffalo, wild horses, elk, antelope, white and black-tailed deer, mountain .sheep, the gri.sly bear, wolves, the hare, badger, porcupine, and smaller animals innumerable. The aggregate number of this cattle, by calculation from .sound data, exceeds one hundred million. No annual fires ever sweep over the Great Plains ; the.se are confined to the Prairie region. The Great Plains also swarm with poultry — the turkey, the mountain cock, the prairie cock, sage chickens, the sand-hill crane, the curlew. Water-fowl of every variety, the swan, goose, brant, diicks. Marmots, the armadillo, the peccary, reptiles, the horned frog. Birds of prey, eagles, vultures, the raven, and the small birds of gjuue and song. The streams abound in fish. Dogs and demi-wolves abouiul. The immense population of nomadic Indians, lately a million in num- PASTORAL AMERICA. 73 ly a million in num- ber, have, from inimeniorial antiquity, subsisted exclusively upon those aborijiinal herds. They are unacijuainted with any kind of agriculture or the habitual use of vegetable food or fruits. From this source the Indian draws exclusively his food, his lodge, hia fuel, harness, clothing, bed, his ornaments, weapons, and utensils. line Is hi.i aohi dcpeuilena; from the heginning to the end of his exisfeiwe. The innumerable carnivorous animals also subsist upon them. The buft'alo alone have appeared to me as numerous as the American people, and to inhabit as uniformly as large u space of country. The buflalo robe at once suggests his adaptability to a winter climate. The Great Plains embrace a very ample proportion of arahk soil for farms. 'Y\\Q ^^ bottoms' of the rivers are very broad and level, having only a few inches of elevation above the waters, which descend by a rapid and even current. They may be easily and cheaply saturated by all the various systems of artificial irrigation, azequias, artesian wells, or floo !- iiig by machinery. Under this treatment the soils, being alluvial and calcareous, both from the sulphate and carbonate formations, return a prodigious yield, and are independent of the seasons. Kvery variety of grain, grass, vegetable, the grape and fruits, flax, hemp, cotton, and the flora, under a perpetual sun, and irrigated at the root, attain extraordinary vigor, flavor, and beauty. The Great Plains abound in fuel, and the materials for dwellings and fencing. Bituminous coal is everywhere intcrstratitied with the calcareous and sandstone formation ; it is also abundant in the flanks of the moun- tains, and is everywhere conveniently accessible. The dung of the buffalo is scattered everywhere. The order of vegetable growth being reversed bv the ar'dity of the atmosphere, what show above as the merest bushes, radiate themselves deep into the eartli, and form below an immense arborescent growth. Fuel of wood is found by digging. Plaster and lime, limestone, freestone, clay, and sand, exist within the area of almost every acre. The large and economical adobe brick, hard- ened in the sun and without fire, supersedes other materials for walls and fences in this dry atmosphere, and, as in Syia and Egj'pt, resists decay for centuries. The dwellings thus constructed are most healthy, being impervious to heat, cold, damp, and wind. The climate of the Great Plains is favorable to health, longevity, intel- lectual and physical development, and stinmlative of an exalted tone of .'ocial civilization and refinement. The American people and their ancestral European people have dwelt 74 PASTORAL AMERICA. Ill for many thousand years oxclusivcly in countries of tinihcr and within the regio'i of tlio mtiritlmc atniospliere : when; winter ai.nihihites all ve<re- tatidu annually for half the year: where all animal food must lie sustained, fed, and fattened hy tillajre with the ]p1ow : where the tsa'tial neeessities of existence, food, clothinji, fuel, and dwellings, are secured oidy hy con- stant and intense uuuiual toil. , To this peoj)le /irrrfi>/ore, the immense empire of pasforaf (trpicn/finr. ut the threshold of which we have arrived, has been as completely a hlank. as was the present condition of social development on the Atlantic Ocean and the American Continent, to the ordinary thoughts of the antiipie Greeks and Romans. Hence this immense world of plains and mountains ; occupying three- fifths of our continent ; so novel to them and so exactly contradictory in every feature to the existing prejudices, routine, and economy of society, is unanimously pronounced an vnlnhahltahle desert. To any reversal of such a judgment, the unanimous public opinion, the rich and poor, the wise and ignorant, the famous and obscure, agree to oppose unanimously a dogmatic and universal deafness. To them, the delineations of travellers, elsewhere intelligent, are here tinged with lunacy ; the science of geography is befogged; the sublime order of Crea- tion no longer holds, and the supreme engineering of God is at i'.tult and a chaos of blunders ! The P. .STORAL Region is longitudinal. The bulk of it is under the Tempera' J Zone, out of which it runs into the Arctic Zone on the north, and Into the Tropical Zone on the south. The parallel Atlantic andde aiA maritime region flanks it on the east ; that of the Pacific on the west. The Great Plains, then, at once separate and bind together these flanks, rounding o-it both the variety and compactness of arrangement in the ele- mentary details of society, ttJiich enables a continent to govern itself with the same ease as a single city.* *■ Such an internal adjustment of society, expanding itself uniformly over the whole area of the continent, accompanies incidentally and of necessity its grand architecture. The physical anatomy, auspicious and consistent in all its details, the intense range of variety, the neighborhood and compactne.»s of these elements so various in configu- ration, warmth, altitude, and production, all conspire to dictate fusion and order. They correct and render impossible what is hostile and opposite to them. The contciiliuiialitica which anticipate tumult will assert, establish, and perpetuate themselves. The experiences of history arm us with precedents for our guidance, and instruct our judgments. They predict for us a wholesome employment of our energies, accom- panied by a subtle and zealous dii-ciplinc competent to anticipate and to restrain disorder. rrangcmont in the ele- t to govern itself with PASTORAL AMEIlfCA. 75 Assiuninfr, then, that tlie advaiiciiijiuohiinn of progress, having roaohcil nnilt'stalilisliL'd itsolf'in force all along the easte'-n froiitof the frnnf I'/niiis, from Jjonisianu to Minnesota : having, also, junijied over and flanked them to oeeujiy California and Oregon : — Assuming that this eolnmn is ahont to dehoiich to the front and ocenpy them with tlie embodied inipulse of our y(/i'_y millions of population : liere- tufore seattere<l uj)on the flanks, but now converging into jihalanx upon the centre : some reflections, legitimately made, may cheer the tiiniil, and confirm those who hesitate from old opinion and the prejudices of adverse education. It is well established that six-tenths of the food of the human family ia, or ought to be, animal food, the result of jMistoral agriculture. The cattle of the world consume eight times the food per head, as compared with the human family. Meat, milk, butter, cheese, poultry, eggs, wool, leather, honey, are the productions of pastoral agriculture. Fish is the sponta- neous production of the water. Nine-tenths of the labor of arahle culture is expended to produce the grain and gra.sses that sustain the present supplies to the world of the above enumerated articles of the pustornl order. If, then, a country can be found where pustoral jjroduce is sponttnieomly sustained by nature, as fish in the ocean, it is manifest that arable labor, being reduced to the pro- duction of bread food oidy, nniy condense itself to a very small percent- age of its present volume, and the cultivated ground devoted to grain and grass be greatly reduced in acres. By the census of 1850, tlic pastoral cnltnre of the American people resulting exclusively from the plow, exhibits the following aggregate : — ■ Cattle of all kinds 18,378,907 Horses and mules 4,80r),0,'>0 Sheep 21,722,220 Swine 30,334,213 Value $655,883,658 It is probable that the aggregate ahoriginal stock of the Great Plains still exceeds in amount the above table. It is all spontaneously supported by nature, as is the fish of the sea. Every kind of our domestic animals flourishes upon the Greai Plains equally Avell with the wild ones. Three tame animals may be substituted for every wild one, and vast territories re-occupied, from which the wild The ancient discordances between urban and rural populations, manners, and tem- per, will find their asperities mutually modified. Society, rectified by reflection from the propitious powers of Nature, will insensibly ascend to an exalted level, illustrating the perpetual dominance and activity of peace, industri/, and concord. I 76 PASTORAL AMRKICA. Illl stock lias been cxfenninatcd by indiseriininatc sliiuglitcr and the inc^aso of tlic Wolves. The American peo[ile are about, then, to inaugurate a novel and immense order of industrial jnoductioii : Pastoral AauiciLTUUE. — Its fields will be the (IikU /Va(';M intermediate between the oceans. Once commenced, \t will di'Veloj) very rajiidly. We trace in their history the successive inauguration and sy.stematic growth of several of these distinct orders : The tohaccn culture, the rlcn culture, the cottou culture, the innnense provision culture of cereals and VKiifs, friil/irr and uoiifj thc'/oA/ culture, ((((c/y^//'^/; external and internal, cotiiitieire ^'xternal and internal, tmnspuftdtion by land and water, the hemj) culture, t\ic Jis/teri'es, munHfuctum. Each of these has arisen as time has ripened tbe necessity for each, and noiselessly taken and fillud its appropriate place in the general economy of our iiii/imtriiil empire. This fuiHtoral property transports itself on the hoof, and finds its food ready furni.shed by nature. In these elevated countries fresh meats becoyie the preferable food for man, to the exclusion of bread, vegetables, and salted articles. The atmosjdiere of the Great Ploiiin is perpetually brilliant with sun- shine, tonic, healthy, pungent, and inspiring to the temper. It corrcsjxmds with and surpasses the historic climate of Syria and Arabia, from whence we inherit all that is ethereal and refined in our .system of civilization, our religion, our sciences, our alphabet, our numerals, our written languages, our articles of food, our learning, and our system of social manners. As the site for a great central metropolitan city of the " Basin of the Mississippi" to arise prospectively upon the developments now maturing, Kansas City, at the mouth of the Kansas Kiver, has the start, the geo- gi'aphical position, and the existing elements with which any rival will contend in vain. It is the focal point where three developments, now near ripeness, will &nd t\w\T river jwrt. 1. The pastoral development. 2. The gold, silver, and salt production of the Sierra San Juan. 3. The continental railroad from the Pacific. These great fields of enterprise will all be recognized and understood by the popular mind, and will be under vigorous headway within the mature life of the existing generation. There must be a great city here, such as antiquity built at the head of the IMediterranean and named Jerusalem, Tyre, Alexandria, and Constan- tinople ; such as our own people name New York, New Orlean3, San Fran- cisco, St. Louis. nil i ': M^m.mmtm<mm ^ alitor and the inc^aso a uovcl and ininicnso t.TiKK. — It.s fields will Once coniineneed, iratldii and systematic 'kiccd enltiire, the /•/(•'' culture (if virrnk and ■xternal and internal, id and water, the hemp necessity for each, and 1 the general economy oof, and finds its food •ies fresh meats hecoijio bread, vegetables, and dly brilliant with sun- semper. It corresponds 1 Arabia, from whence tem of civilization, our our written languages, f social manners, of the " HiikIii of the ftments now maturing, has the start, tlie geo- I which any rival will low near ripeness, will . 2. The gold, silver, lie continental railroad zed and understood by vay within the mature y built at the head of xandria, and Constan- ew Orlean3, San Fran- I :i«^ , ''TJ. iiii It '" ■_ '•^t^ ijjs j:^a»6"f)?i iM ••^' ^^fi r 'Ht,i''<' 1 1 •^ Ik-aill'taili :>-/! V*v/j. I ■Tr-'f"- i..->- ^'^^ ■'■i! . ( I ir^. ,.4-^- /f.i '..1 I «■« I >l^ i.^" •'«».**a*.^J*«f»-''""^sj;''?5i!,v f';^ lanif^*- ? t. t ..3Wfe,- li^^' /•.^ c- I r I •r /_ >K* i/' '•■IT'' 'i ' -r-' if 4^ ■ir ^^rj-vu... i->As.i \ ■ - ■ . • ■ f'"i r 'TIlllJ.IlM I » '" .r4iib'ijty .i<: IM<i>iiiiuik.|'T. ..■•>l-'<'- >--. . K A -' •ji«l.-tl •" U I >|.VP^Of andnorthern portion of THE SYSTEM or PA RCS. y: • ^ /" AJ^iAi^AlJiD'i: ^D. 'j - . •-•^; ^/i- .lb >^^^ ^_ j.ff_ X ^.-.l }.». £i). ^\>»rjf^ UnMk. /•■•■ >- J. V- ^. llaiiiiTiik' \»\ lllMllH-lll) ■'^'^i:. H v^-^ r%^-,/' /f ^^-•-^ ^--■<Z_:\ . j^ -4 iri I In propoi tiress now ca researches ii awed by the grace and c( The Moi the most stii innumerabk nificance. These arc their s(jurc( battlements Each is I rectitude o: mountains, generous w In the h tinents, the wanting, or in Asia: C These bowl tion. The Tai of superlat KADO. This Sys Mortised c tcned cone surround t radiate to i Here is America ! CHAPTER VIII. THE SYSTEM OF THE PARCS. In proportion as curiosity, warmed by the expanding energy of pro- gress now every wliere palpitating with activity and fresh fire, extends our researches into every detail of our entire country, we are astonished and awed by the splendid magnitude of its architecture, and by the I'aultlesa grace and consistency of its anatomy. The Mountain System sparkles everywhere, and is checkered with the most startling beauties. The special recurrence of Parcs, which are innumerable, and are lavishly scattered over its area, has pre-eminent sij^- nificance. These are charming valleys, accompanying the rivers. They surround their s(jurces, or expand from their channels, between the mountain battlements, among which they flow. Each is an amphitheatre. They maintain everywhere an undeviating rectitude of pn^portion, fitted in size to the volume of the rivers and mountains. Fertility and enchandng scenery mark them all. The most generous woalth of streams and vegetation are unfailing. In the latitudinal courses of the mountain structures of the other con- tinents, the favorable sunshine being absent, this form of valleys is either wanting, or they are unattractive. Those known to fame, are Kashmere in Asia : Constance and Geneva, encased within the Alps of Europe. These bowls are occupied by water surfaces, :md are unfitted for habita- tion. The Parcs of the North American Andes find their culmination of superlative gi-andeur in the System of the Four Parcs of Colo- rado. This System towers over and crowns the whole Continental structure. Mortised down, many thousand feet, into the ample expanse of the flat- tened cone, encircled by all the other North American mountains, they surround the sources and shed out all the grand arterial rivers, which radiate to all the seas. Here is the supreme dome, which surmounts the heart of North America ! 77 . '■""•■iiliil ^»nHml l'a«„ --^ ' :\ :^. \ 1 1 ...1" '■'jiiii''. "piid ' f'lr* (r '''«,„ i ' ""■"■'••"-A j Vi.t ' Ol.DHAI),, ^'UDrCiaiici'. - ^^ ' z p X A t; v^,.,; //vol'* KI.MWIowWU 4 A P A C HE r ■' ^^v \^ ?'i\V'WA\\ \!ilf''4 *^Hi »'* .S.B»i l„la^; MAP 1 11 II si I'M lino II u»' >^ S rSTEM OF i»Aau\s I //if BmESM RELATIONS Of TmQmT PLAm, IHK XOin 11 AMKUICAi ANDES, UIhI lli(> PACIFIC MARATmE rtRONT. >'■ : K J B L:pp,ncoti S Co Phi ,:., II *,- 1 i Ij '- -. f» i. I ^^ n " ARAPAHOESi I .»«■; I i^: .-i :^~ '"'■., •^\.v^" w r«»»'i F.n> A l,«wr»"' s \) . ^ n feC E C \ .1^, «7.i..*»""'""* * l,,«rt>>"H ,, L^ AX8 E rV'Ji.V;,,!.,. i</-^ Y CHOCTAW - V ~C-\*!iiUi!i-«.-,.. ) / \ «„■• NATION ^^^ ^VtrO^* T R Y^-n.AT ION, ,,...»««« if t ■SB" 78 THE SYSTEM OF THE PAllCS. Favored by tlioir immense dimensions, rad screened by an uninhr- rupted envelopo of primary mountain edifices ; the climatic elements happily balanccjd ; j^ive to their atmosphere a i)eri>etual venial temperature ; intense serenity and the most gorgeous splendor. They are bisrctcil successively, through and through, by tlie o«e Iiun- drcil and sixth meridian. Each one siiii/fy is of marvellous size, excellence of form, and eminent beauty. Th(! group, as they are blended into one system, '? miraculous! This springs from its dominating continental position: from the juxtaposition: from the immediate contact : from the intense variety and supreme grace illustrating every detail and i)ervading the entire structure. Kestricted especially to the System of the Fouk Paucs of Colo- rado, the S<iit Luis Pare is readily entered at the extreme north through the Puncho Pa.ss, penetrating the Cordillera from the Arkansiis Kiver. This pare, of ellii)tical form, and immense dimensions, is envel- oped between the Cordillera and Sierra Mind)res. It has its extreme northern point between these two Sierras, where they separate l)y a sharp angle and diverge ; the former to the southeast, and the latter to the southwest. The latitude of the Puncho Pass is 38° 30', the longitude 100°. It is one hundred and twenty-five miles saiithccst from Denver, and thirty- seven miles due icest from Caiion City. Emerging from the Puncho Pass, tlic waters begin to gather and form the Sun Luis Jiivo: This flows to the south, through a valley of great beauty, which rajiidly widens to the right and left. On the east flank, the Cordillera ascends abruptly and continuously, without any foot-hills, to a sharp, snowy summit. On the west, foot- hills and secondary mountains, rising one above the other, entangle the whole space of the Sierra Mimbres. The Sawatch River has its source on the inner (eastcni) fhmk of the Sierra Mimbres, about sixty miles south of its angle of divergence from the Cordillera, and, by a course nearly east, converges toward the lower San Luis Eiver. It enters upon the pare by a similar valley. These two valleys expand into one another around this mass of foot- hills, fusing into the open pare, whose centre is here occupied by the *S'"/( Luis lAthc, into which the two rivers converge and discharge their waters. The San Luis Lake, extending south from the point of the foot-hills, occupies the centre of the pare for sixty miles. It forms a boid without any outlet to its waters. It is encircled by immense saturated savannas of luxuriant grass. THE SYSTEM OF THE PAllCS. (9 Its water surface expands over this sncnnna during the season of tlie multiiin' snows upon the Sierras, and shrinks when the season of evapora- tion returns. From the flaiilvs of the Cordillera on the east, at intervals ijf six or eiu'ht miles asunder, and at very e((ual distauw^, /uitrtecn streams other than the San Luis, descend and converge into the San Luis Luke. The belt of the sloping plain between the mountains and the lake, trav- ersed by so many parallel streams, bordered by meadows and groves of cottduwood-trees, has from this feature the name of " Los Alamos," It is sixty miles in length and twenty wide. On the opposite (^western) side from the flank of the Sierra ^Mimbres, similar streams descend from the west into the lake, known as the Sa- Kutcli, the Oinicro, and the (rarcfa. Tiio confluent streams thus converging into the San Luis Lake are iiine- (ei'ii ill luunbor. The area thus occupii;d by this isolated lake and drained into it by its converging affluents, forming distinctly one-tliird of the whole surface of the pare, is classified under the general name of '' lUncon." Advancing onward to the south along the west edge of the plain, ten miles, from the Gareta, the Eio del Norte Iliver issues from its mountain gorge. Its .source is in the perpetual snows of the peaks of the San Juan., the local name given to this stupendous culmination of the Sierra Miiiibres. The Del Norte flows from its extreme source due east one hundred and fifty miles, and having reached the longitudinal middle o'.' \.\\c pare, turns abruptly south, and, bisecting the pare for perhaps one hundred and fifty mi/if, pas.ses beyond its rim in its course to the Gulf of Mexico. All the streams descending from the enveloping Sierras (other than tlie Alamos) converge into it their tributary waters. On the west come in successively the Pi'ntada, the Bio del G.cfa, the liio de la Gam, the CoiKJos, the San Antonio and Piedra. These streams, six or eight miles asunder, parallel, equidistant, fed by the snows of the Sierra MimLres, have abundant waters, very fertile areas of land, and are all of the very highest order of beauty. Advancing again from the Rineon, at the eastern edge of the plain along the base of the Cordillera, the prodigious conical mass of the Sierra Blniica protrudes like a. vast hemisphere into the plain and blocks the vision to the direct south. The road describes the arc of a semicircle ai'oiiiid its ba.se for thirty miles and reaches Fort Garland. In the immediate vicinity of Fcn-t Garland, the three large streams, the Yuta, the Sangre de Cristo, and the Triuchera, descend from the Cor- dillera, converge, unite a few miles west, and, bleiiding themselves in the Triuchera, flow west twenty-four miles into the llio del Norte. ^^i 80 THE SYSTEM OF THE PAIICS. The lino of the snowy Cordillera, hidden behind the bulk of the S!<rni Blanca, here again reveals itself pursuing its regular sunthcast course and direction. Fourteen miles south is reached the town of San Lni\s, upon the Ciilehrti River ; seventeen miles farther is the town of Coitilfa, upon Costilla River. Fifteen miles farther the town of Bit o Colorado is reached : elylitxn miles farther onward the Arroyo Hondo (between these is the San Cristoval ) ; from the Arroyo Hondo to Taos is fourteen miles; twenty miles beyond Taos is the mountain chain whose circle towards the west forms the southern mountain barrier which encloses the San Luis Pare in that direction. The San Litis Pare is then an immense elliptical bowl, the bed of a primeval sea which has been drained : its bottom, smooth as a water sur- face, and concave, is 9400 square miles in area. It is watered by thirtj- five mountain streams, which, descending from the encircling crest of snow, converge nineteen into the San Luis Lake, the rest into the Rio del Norte. An extraordinary symmetry of configuration is its prominent feature. The scenery, everywhere sublime, has the ever-changing variety of the kaleidoscope. Entirely around the edge of the plain, and closing the junction of the plain with the mountain's foot, runs a smooth glacis, exactly resembling the sea-beach which accompanies the conjunction of the land with the ocean. From this heacli rise continuously, all around the horizon, the great mountains, elevating their heads above the line of perpetual snow. On the eastern side the escarpment of the Cordillera rises rapidly, and is abrupt ; on the ivestern side the crest of the Sierra Mimhres is more re- mote, having the interval filled with ridges, lessening in altitude as they descend to the plain of the pare. This continuous shelving flank of the Sierras, completing a perfect amphitheatre, has a superficial area equal to that of the level plain which ii envelopes, and gives to the whole enclosure within the encircling band of snow an area of 18,000 square miles. At an elevation of five or six thousand feet above the plain, a level line upon the mountain wall marks the cessation of arborescence, above which naked granite and snow alone are .seen. To one who ascends to this elevation at any point, the whole interior of this prodigious amphitheatre, displaying an elliptical area of 1 1 ,520,000 acres, is scanned by the eye and swept in at a single glance. Aided by a glass, the smallest objects scattered over the immense elliptical area beneath are discernible through the limpid, brilliant, and translucent atmosphere. THE SYSTEM OF THE PARCS. 81 bulk of the Sierra iiif/iatsf course und of S(tn Luis, upon n of Costilla, upon hed : eighteen iiiilofj he San Cristoval ) ; enty miles beyond le west forms the Luis Pare ill that 30wl, the bed of a oth as a water sur- watered by thirly- ncircling crest of 3t into the Rio del prominent feature. ;ing variety of the 1, and closing the a smooth glacis, he conjunction of horizon, the great petual snow. On es rapidly, and is imbres is more re- in altitude as they iipleting a perfect level plain which le encircling band 1 plain, a level line snce, above which he whole interior rea of 11,520,000 nee. Aided by a )tical area beneath icent atmosphere. Two facts impress themselves upon tlie senses : the perfect symmetry of configuration in nature, and the intense variety in the form and sjjlen- d(ir of the landscape. The colors of the sky and atniosjihere are intensely vivid and gorgeous ; the dissolving tints of light and shade are forever intorcliaiiging ; they are as infinite as are the altering angles of the solar ravs in his diurnal circuit. Tlie average elevation of the plain above the sea-level is G-lOO feet. Tlic highest peaks have an altitude of 1(5,000 feet above the sea. In the serrated rim of the pare, as seen from the plain, jtrojected against the canopy, are discernible seventeen peaks, at very equal distances from one anotlier. Each one differs from all the rest in some j)eculiarity of shape and position. Each one identifies it.self by some striking beauty. From the snows of each one descends .some considerable river, as well within the pare, as outward down the external mountain back. We recognize, therefore, in the San Luis Pare an immense elliptical basin, envelojiing the .sources of the Kio Bravo del Norte. It is isolated in the heart of the continent, 1200 miles from any sea. It is mortised, as it were, in the midst of the vast mountain bulk, where, rising gradu- ally from the oceans, the highest altitude and amplitude of the continent is attained. This pare spreads its plain from 3G° to 38° 30', cand is bisected by the lOGth meridian. Its greatest length is 210 miles; its greatest width is 10(1 miles ; its aggregate approximate area is 18,000 .square miles. Such being the gcoyrapliical position, altitude, and peculiar unique eon- figuration, these features suggest the inquiry into parallel peculiarities of meteiirolorjfj, geology, physical structure, agriculture, mineralogy, and the economy of labor. The Anieri< an people have heretofore developed their social system exclu- .sively on the borders of the two oceans, and within the maritime valleys of moderate altitude, having navigation and an atmosphere influenced by the sea. To them, then, the contrast is complete in every teature, in these high and remote altitudes, beyond all influence of the ocean, and specially continental. There is an identity between the " Valley or Pare of the City of Mexico" and the San Luis Pare which ought to be here mentioned. They are similar ticin basins of the great Plateau, classifying together in the physical structure of the continent. Mexico is in latitude 20°, longitude 99°, and has an altitude of 7500 feet. The width of the continent is here 575 miles from ocean to ocean, and the divergence of the Cordilleras is 275 miles, which here is the width of the Plateau. 6 82 THE SYSTEM OF THE PAIiCS. At the yOtli ck'jireo, the continent expands to a width of U^OO miles between the oceans ; the Cordilleras have diverj^ed 12U0 miles asnnder, and the Platkau has widened to tlie same dimensions. In liannony with tlie great expansion of tlie continent are all the details of its interiur structure. The •' J'aic of the Q'ti/ of Mexico" is but one-tenth in size and ;^r;in- deur as compared and contrasted witli the 8an Luis Pare. It has an area, including tlie water surface of five lakes, of 1,278,720 acres. Of identical anatomy, the former is a pigmy ; the latter a giant. The similitude as coni- ]) 'uent parts of the mountain anatomy is in all respects absolute, as is also tiiie of the other pares, which occupy longitudinally the centre of the State of Colorado. In .METKOKOLOGY the atmo.«i)herie condition of the San Luis ])are, like its scenery, is one of constant brilliancy, both by day and nigiit ; obey- ing steady laws, yet alternating with a playful methodical fickleness. There are no prolonged vernal or autumnal seasons. Summer and win- ter divide the year. Both are characterized by mildness of temperature, A-fter the (iiittininal c([uinox, the snows begin to accumulate on the moun- tains. After the vernal equinox they dis.solve. The formation of light clouds upon the crest of the Sierras is incessant. The meridian sun retains its vitalizing heat around the year ; at mid- night prevails a corresponding tonie coolness. The clouds are wafted away by steady atmospheric currents coming from the west. They rarely inter- rupt the sunshine, but, refracting his rays, imbue the canopy with a sliining silver light, at once intense and brilliant. The atmospliere and climate arc essentially cuntinental, being uninterruptedly salubrious, brilliant, and tonie. The flanks of the great mountains, bathed by the embrace of these irri- gating clouds, are clad with great forests of pine, fir, spruce, hemlock, aspen, oak, cedar, pifion, and a variety of smaller fruiL-trees and shrubs, which protect the sources of the springs and rivulets. Among the forests, alternate mountain meadows of luxuriant and nutritious grass. The ascending clouds, rarely condensed, furnish little irrigation at the depressed elevation of the plains, which are destitute of timber but clothed in grass. These delicate grasses, growing rapidly during the annual melting of the snows, cure into hay as the aridity of the atmosphere returns. They form perennial pastures, and supply the winter food of the aboriginal cattle, everywhere indigenous and abun- lant. An infinite variety in temper and temperature is suggested as flowing from the juxtaposition of extreme altitudes and depressions ; permanent snows, runnii rivers. Nat i is propitious The foiifji/ anil of the e\ suiinuits; tin Within th when the sun mlder atmos atmospheres each one tem The snows accumulation tion, as in a manner temp •stantly main maturity. Storms of uiiiforndy d soothing sen ually exposec seen. Moder tact of elem( The critic scrutinizing variety of na healthy aetit There is health and compelling ] inhaled, and the atmosph rupted, stim All of thes( salubrity of tonic taste s petual activi As to its degree inter and in ordei science and THE SYSTEM OF THE PAliCS. 8:5 ndth of 9500 iiiilea 1200 niilus asunder, In harmony with jtails of itH inti'iinr til in size and uran- 'arc. It has an area, acres. Of idi'ntiual ic similitude' as com- ts absolute, as is also y the centre of tlie ; San Luis pare, like y and nijjiit ; obey- lieal fickleness. Summer and wiu- uess of temperature, nulate on the moun- 3 formation of light \ the year ; at mid- uds are wafted away . They rarely inter- anopy with a shining losphere and climate brious, brilliant, and mbrace of these irri- [ir, spruce, hemlock, iiiL-trees and shrubs, s of luxuriant and lensed, furnish little which are destitute ses, growing rapidly hay as the aridity )astures, and supply adigenous and abun- mggested as flowing ressions ; permanent gnows, running rivers, and the coneentrie courses of the mountains and rivers. Nature is benignant a. graceful throughout her wliole plan, and is pro)iitious in the working of all her laws and in every element. The /oiii/itiiifiiKif Sierras receive and absorb the glory of the morning and of the evening sun upijii their fl:.iiks, the noontide beams upon their summits ; they cast no chilling shadow. Within the bowl of the pare, the heat of the shining sun accumulates; when the sun has .set, this heatud atmosphere ascends ; simultaneously the colder atmosphere descends from the engirdling rim of snow. These atmospheres permeate broadcast the one the other, through and through ; each one tempers the other by this play of natural transition. The snows of the altitudes are constantly attacked and their excessive accumulation defeated : no glaciers form to enclose the rf)cks and vegeta- tion, as in a perpetual tomb. The heat of the concave jilaiii is in a 1 e manner tempered to a genial standard ; irrigation and the streams are con- stantly maintained; vegetation con.stantly and as unitbrmly nuraired d maturity. Storms of rain and wind are neither fro(|uent nor lasting. The air is uniforndy dry, having a racy freshness and an exhilarating taste. A soothing serenity is the prevailing impression upon those who live perpet- ually exposed to the seasons. Mud is never anywhere or at any time seen. 3Ioderation and concord appear to result from the presence and con- tact of elements so various. The critical coiu;lusions to which a rigid study of nature brings the scrutinizing mind are the reverse of first impressions. The multitudinous variety of nature adjusts it.self with a delicate harmony wMch brings into healthy action the imhixfriid energies. There is no use for the practice of jirofessional pharmacy. Chronic health and longevity characterize animal life. The envelope of cloud- compelling peaks: the seclusion from the oceans: the rarity of the air inhaled, and tlie absence of humidity: disinfect the earth, tlie water, and the atmosphere of exhalations and niidswas. Health, .ound and uninter- rupted, stinudates and sustains a high state of mental and physical energy. All of these are burnished, as it were, by the perpetual brilliancy and salubrity of the atmosphere and landscaj)e ; whose unfailing beauty and tonic taste stimulate and invite the physical and mental energies to per- petual activity. As to its GEOLOGY and minerals, the San Luis Pare is in the highest degree interesting and remarkable. It is found to contain, intermingled and in order, a complete epitome of all the elements of which geological science and research take note. Its intramural locality between the jiri- 84 rUK SYSTEM Of THE I'AKCS. iiii'Viil crests (if tlu! ('(irdillora, on tlic cKsf, and tlic Sierra .Miinlircs (In re (Mtlk'tl tlu^ •• Suit Juan' ), on tlie u:<nt, iuiiUi|iliL'S tliU variety iiiilel- initely. 'I'lies(> iin'nnin/ Sierras, se)ianite(l by tlit; ]iare, face (iiir amttlier in full si^iit, as tliey rear their flanivs Irmii tlie (ipiidsite edjjies of the concave phiiu. The successive |)o. iods a?id stiijiendoiis forces whicli liave cxiicndcd themselves to jirodiiee what is in siuht, and then subsided to an ttcrnal rest.eacli jiarlicularly nianifiwts itself • 'J'lie ciiiitl) <>/ t/ir Si'crni jiresents the j)rodijj:ious jilates of jirluirnd jiorphyry driven u]), as the sul)S()il of a furrow, from the lowest teiTestrial crust and protrudinj;' their vertical edp's toward the sky. Till' summit, yielding to tins corrodintr forces. ])res«'nts a wedj^o toward the canopy; is arranged in lu'aks resemlilini: the teeth of a .siw, is above all arborescence, and is either c'ud in jierjietual snow, or is bald rock. Again-st this is lapped perpendicularly the s«wond stratum, less by many thousand feet in altitude, its top forming a liinn or bench. This IkikIi being the rended edge of tlm erupt<'d stratum, softer than the first and receiving the debris from above, has a deep, fertile soil, a luxuriant (///////<■ vegetation, forests of tir and aspen, and is the /ily/iist region of arborescence and vegetable growth. This is the region (if rocks, when^ thci metals, rsjK'violli/ ijolil tiiul sifnr, ab(»und in crevices charged and infused with the richest ort-s. It is from hence that the gold of the gulches is disintegnitcd and descends. Here are springs of water and the sources of rivei-s. The timber is excellent and the pastures of various grassi>s luxuriant and inexhaustible. Swept by a.scending currents of vapor, irrigation is constant. This elevated (tench is a permanent characteristic of the mountain flank, continuous as the continent Itmlf ; a colo.s.sal stairca.se, whose step.s are themselves of mountain magnitude. It is here, at these surfaces of contact of the erupted jilates of the lowest terrestrial crust, that the thread of the ^^ gold belt' is revealed and found. From this thread, as friiuj a core outward, the precious metals taper in quantity and become diluted in the immensity of the rocks, as a hill of rock salt di.sapjiears to the eye, dissolved in the immensity of the ocean. The top of this continuous bench is undulating, broad, and occasionally crossed by transverse ridges and the chasms f)f water-courses descending from above. The front flank of this bench forms the stujiendous esca.p- meiit of the mountains, everywhere lofty and precipitous. It is cut through by imuuuerable streams, up whose g*" i ?es access to the upper regions is attained, and the internal contents, the intestines, as it were, of the rocks arc revealed to sight and search. THE SYSTEM Of THE rA/lCS. 85 lit' Sicrni Miiiilircs s tliirt variety inild'- oiii iinofhcr ill lull }X('ti of tlu' cinicavo I it'll have oxficiiditl ).>*i(lftl tti an i'tt'i'iial Jilatos of ]in'itirnil it> lowest torTL'-Htrial vV. iits a wt'ilgt^ ttivard I tif a siw, is aliove or is V)ald rock, ratuin, less l)y many ln'iiih. Tliis /itiiili than tlu' first and a luxuriant ii//iiiii- fiitui of urbttrcsft'ia't) nfli/ f/»/(/ fiinf si/rrr, ?.st ores. It is from ntl descends. Here tiinl)er is excellent 'xhauHtil)le. Swept c of the mountain airease, wliose steps it these surfaces of rial crust, that the •om this thread, as lantity aiitl become t)ck sidt disajjiiears id, and occasitmally -courses descend i n^ stujtendtius esca.p- ^. It iscut throufrh he upper regions is were, of the rocks Forming the pediment tif this stupentjoiis mural escarjiment i* the ficDinl liinii or /i)iic/i (being the lowest) in the general mountain descent. Here the approailiing elevation ttf tlie plain: the iinrease in >ize of tlie streams: thi; aeeuinulatiiig di'-biis fntm above, ami the iiierea.'M-d atmo<- iiheiic aln-asitin ; all unite to til)literite the an^'ularitv of the rocks, and impair the striking distinctness of forunition. l-'oi'ests of pine anti tlecitlutiiis trees prevail. The flora ami vegt-t.-itioii is aliiintlant and varit)us. The atnitisjiheric irrigation becomes uneertain. anil tlu? rocks are covereil with soil or tht! fragments of their own siiper- ticial ilestniction. Immetliately following is the hni'd space occupietl by the fusion t)f the mountain ba.se and the plain gen ..scemling to meet it. Here is a profile infinitely imU'iitetl ami broken : alternately tlie slop- ing ritlge.s ]irtitrutle their ribs into the ]>lain, aiitl the plain a<lvanees its valleys between them, to receive the streams. This is the region of the j)(iiri'rs. wliere is cheekeil in its tlescent ami lotlgetl beneath the alluvial soil the free goltl washetl down by torrents from the overlianging >iimmit.-. This skett'ii of tl le iniiiiK //structure ami eonfiiruration of the Conlillera is illustratetl by a checkered list t)f tletails in its minute element>. The jirimrral rocks, K.atetl to ineamlescence. rest in their vertical jMisitimis un- alteretl frtuu their oriiiinal form ; thev have been roasted but not li<iuefi)'<l. isuni, ui> |U. liftetl on lii^'h but imt tit Original strata of limestone ami gyj strtiyed, re.st ujioii the summits as a tt)rii hat. (lypsum. limestone, .slates, clavs. sluue, ear ths an d salts are thus found near the hiirhest summit.s The ilecay of the secomlary rocks gives extraortlinary fertility to the niiiuntain flanks, ami tt) the alluvial btittoms below. Hence the luxuriance of the arboreseenee, the pastures, and the flora. The altituile of the summits gathei-s ami retains the snows, whos«^ gla- ciers give birth tt) innumerable rivers. These gash the jirecipitous flanks with chasms, up which mails ascend. The ct)m{)osition of the rotk.-* i> here revealetl ; the mysteries of their interior contents are unravelletl. ami the set^retion.s of nature subjected tti the human eye and hand. Thus, then, erects itself the prlutfrnl C't>rdillera. constructed of hori- zontal plate.s, vertically thrown uj) by stupendt)us volcanic forc»»s. parvially altered and rt)asted by incandescent heat, but neither destroyed nor recjLst ill form. The secondary rocks are tos.sed and scattered high in the up|>«T regions, but are ni)t calcinetl by flame. The metallic ores are as various as the variety of the rocks, fnrtflud by heat and exposed by upheaval and corrosit)n. Xo lava, no pumice, no obsidian, nothing of melted matter from the Plutonic region is seen. This furrowing of the terrestrial crust has alone occuiiied and exhaustetl the stupendous volcanic throes of the subterranean world of fire. ~ 1^ % |j|d t ■ s ^B^^^H >i- , ^■•r(SP t. ^ ;mi^3* •'"ffi •f' Ual^ J^^AiwIw . wlilKi %t L' .. . /yP^ ;lsi r4#K --'i 86 THE SYSTEM OF THE PA II OS. The Sierra Mimbhes, forming the western envelope of the Pare, is not dissimilar to the thnllUcrd in its origin, composition, and configura- tion. Rising from the level of the great Plateau, it is of inferior bulk and rank. It forms the backbone from whose contrasted flanks descend the waters of the Rio del Norte, on the cast, and the Rio Colorado, on the tcvst. Craters of extinct volcanoes are nunun'ous ; streams of lava, once ]i((uid, abound , pedriijah of semi-crystalline basalt submerge and cover the val- ley into which they have flowed, and over which they have liardened. This Sierra, then, has a general direction from north to south, corre- sponding with the lO'Jth meridian. It has all the characteristics in minld- tiirc of the Cordillera, but is checkered and interrupted by the escape of subterranean fires, having areas overflowed and buried beneath the erupted current. Where the nascent springs of the Rio del \orte have their birth, the Sierra Mimbres culminates to stupendous peaks of perennial snow, local/// named Sierra San Juan. The concave plain of the San Luis Pare, begirt by this clUpttcal zone of the Sierras, thus capped with a ragged fringe of snow projcicted ujiward against the canopy, is the receptacle of their converging waters. It is a bowl of va.st amplitude. It has for countless ages re(;eived and kept the sedi- mentary settlings of so prodigious a circuit of the Sierras. It is builded up with every variety of form, structure, and geological elements elsewhere found to enter into the architecture of nature. Hither descend the currents of water, of the atmo.sphere, of lava. The rocks rent from the naked pinnacles, tortured by the intense vicissitudes which assail them ; the fragments rolled by the j)erpetnal ])re.S!<ure of gravitj' upon the descending sloj)es ; the sands and .soils from the founda- tions of rocks and clays of every gradation of hardness; the liumm of expired forests and annual vegetation ; elements carbonized by transient tires ; organic decay ; all these elements descend, intermingle, and accu- mulate. This roiicavc plain is, then, a bowl filled with sedimentary drift, covered with soil, and varnished over, as it were, with vegetation. The northern dej)artment of Rincon, closely embraced by the Sierras, and occupied by the San Luis Lake, is a va.st savanna deposited frouj the filtration of the waters, highly imj)regnated with the mountain <li'lnis. Beneath this soil is a continuous pavement of peat, which maintains the saturation of the super-soil, and is admirable for fuel. The middle region of the j)lain, longitudinally, displays a crater of the most perfect form. The intericn- pit has a diameter of twenty miles, from the centre of which is seen the circumferent wall forming an exact circle, and in height fiv lava, pumice, calc: obsidian. This circumfen departure of the 1 traverse the nortl ]iy this and ot into isi)latcd hill dinary beauty of filled up with tlu introduced by tl bevelled by thesi drained through Fivm this cri Pare exjiands ov volcanic activity Rio del Norte, \ or caiion of per] feet, where it di the village of L Such are thi which nature hj pansion of the 1: Toward the no defeated eflPort t Such is an in ras. Its physii of nature piled mony ; its eloi portions ; its c brilliancy, tonit excellence, grai mines and miu salts, and fuel ; fruits, meat, \ ment which bit voke, stimulate Entrance ar convenient pa: pass and ever structed at an THE SYSTEM OF THE PARCS. 87 and in height five hundred ft'ct. This wall is a barranca, composed of lava, luunice, calcined lime, metamorphosed sandsftone, vitrified roi ks, and obsidian. Tliis circuniferent barranca is perforated through by the entrance and departure of the Rio del Norte, the Culebra, and the Costilla liivers, which tra.crso the northern, western, and southern edges of the interior. ]{y this and other forces of corrosion this barranca is on three sides cut into isolated hills, called cerritos, of every fantastic form and of extraor- dinary beauty of shape and tints. The bottom of the crater has been filled up with the .soils resulting from tlie decay of this variety of material, iiitroducefl by the currents of the water and of the atmosjdiere. It is bevelled by tliese forces to a perfect level ; is of the fattest fertility, and drained through the porous formation which underlies it. Fr(j))i this crater to its southern rim, a distance of sixty-five miles, the Pare expands over a prodigious jjt(//vV/(//, formed from it in the period of volcanic activity. This pedrigal retains its level, and is perforated by the llio del Norte, whose longitudinal course is confined in a profound chasm or caiiou of perpendicular walls of lava, increasing to the depth of 1200 feet, where it debouches froui the jaws of this gigantic flood of lava, near the village of La Joya, in New Mexico. Such are the extraordinary forms and stupendous dimensions with which nature hjre salutes the eye and astoni.shes the imagination. The ex- jiansion of the lava is all to the .-outh, following the descent toward the sea. Toward the north, repelled by the ascent, are waves demonstrating the defeated efl'ort to climb the mountain base. Such is an imperfect sketch of this wonderful amphitheatre of the Sier- ras. Its physical structure, infinitely complex, exhibiting all the elements of nature piled in contact, yet .set together in order and arranged in har- mony ; its cloud-v_.upelling Sierras, of stern primeval matter and pro- portions; its concave basin of fat fertility; its atmosphere of dazzling brilliancy, tonic temperature, and gorgeous tints ; its arable and ixmtoral excellence, grand forests, and multitude of streams ; its infinite variety of mines and minerals, embracing the whole catalogue of metals, rocks, clays, salts, and fuel ; its capacity to produce grain, flax, wool, hides, vegetables, fruits, uieat, poultry, and dairy food ; the compact economy of arrange- ment which blends and interfuses all these varieties ; these combine to pro- voke, stimulate, and reward the taste for pliysical and mental labor. Entrance and exit over the rim of the pare is everywhere made easy by convenient passes. Roads re-enter upon it from all points of the com- pass and every portion of the surrounding continent. These are not ob- structed at any season. 88 THE SYSTEM OF THE PARCS. On the north is the Puneho Pass, leadiuji' to the Upper Arkansas River, and into the South Pare, On the enat, the Moscha and Sanjiio di Ciisto Passes debouch iuiniediately ujm)ii the Gnat PlaiiDi. On the sniith is the channel of tlie Rio del Norte. On tlie west, easy roads diverjic to the rivers Chanias, San Juun, and toward Arizona. In the nurt/iircxt tlie Coclia-to-pee opens to the Great Salt Lake and the Pacific. Convenient thoroughfares and excellent roads converge from all points, and diverge with the same facility. T/ie si/sfem of the four pares, extending to the north, indefinitely anijdi- fies and repeats all that characterizes the San Luis Pare. Smaller in size and less illustrated by variety, each one of 'lie three by itself lingers be- hind the San Luis, but is an e(jual ornament in the same liimily. Their graceful forms, their happy harmony of contact and position, make their aggregated attractions the fascinating charm and glory of the American continent. The abundance and variety of hot springK, of every modulation of tem- perature, is very great. These are abo equalled by waters of medicinal virtues. It has been the paradise of the aboriginal stock, elsewhere so abundant and various. Fish, water-fowl, and birds of game and song and brilliant plumage frequent the streams and groves. Animal life is infi- nite in (juantity and abundantly various. The Atmosi'HERic curre.nts, which sweep away every exhalation and all traces of malaria and miasma, have an undeviating rotation. These currents are necessarily vertical in direction and equable in force, alter- nating smoothly- as land and sea currents of the tropical islands of the ocean. The sileuee and serenity of the atniosj)here are not ruffled ; the changing temperature alone indicates tlie n:otion of nature. All around the cWy>^((Y*/ circumference of the plain, following, as it were, its shore, and bending with the indented base of the mountains, is an un- interrupted road of unparalleled excellence. This circuit is five hundred miles in lengtli, and is graced with a landscape of uninterrupted grandeur, variety, and beauty. On the one hand the mountains, on the other hand the conatvc plain diversified with groves of alamos and volcanic cerritos. At short inter- vals of five or ten miles asunder, are cro.ssed the swift running currents and fertile meadows of the converging mountain streams. Ifot spriii(/s mingle their warm water with all ihese streams, which swarm with delicate fish and water-fowl. The works of the beaver and otter are everywhere encountered, and water-power for machinery is of singularly universal distribution. Agri- culture classifies itself into j'untimii iu\d (iriM-j the former subsisting on THE SYSTEM OF THE PAIICS. 89 the iierennial grasses ; the latter upon irrigation everywhere attiiined by the streams and artificial aze<(uias. Tliis concarc eonfiguration and symmetry of structure is remarkably projiitious to economy of labor and jiroduetion, favored by the juxtaposi- tion :uid variety of material, by the short and easy transport, and by tlie benignant atmosphere. The supreme excellence of position, structure, and productions thus grouped within the system of the Paucs of Colcirado, occujiying the heart of the continental home of the American people, is conclusively dis- cernilile. Here is the focus of the mountains, of the great rivers, and of the metals of the continent. The great rivers have here their extreme sources, which interlock and form innumerable and convenient passes from sea to sea. From these they descend smoothly to both oceans by continuous gradations. The jtarcs occupy the for fifth ilct/nc, and offer the facilities for a lodgment in force, at the highest altitude. JJcie the .supreme divide of the continent exists, half-way between the trough of the Mississijipi and the Pacific shore. Being immediately approachable over the Great Plains, their m'nes of precious metals are the nearest in the wt)rld to the social mas.ses of the American people and to their great commercial cit'.es. Their accessibility is perfect. All the elements of a perfect economy, food, health, geographical posi- tion, innumerable mines of the richest ores and every variety, erect, assist, and fortify one another. Within and around this parr, so grand in dimen- sions and harmonious in structure and locality, is preparing itself the mining laboratory of the world. The rare economy in architecture, climate, inter-oceanic convenience, prolific food, miscellaneous materials and metals, constitute and locate here the pi I riit/oti iiufeed of all geographical positions. The San Luis Pare has tivintij-four thousaml population. These j)eople are fif the ^lexican-Anunican race. Since the conquest of Cortez, a.d. 1520, the JA',»/<v/H peoj)Ie have acquired and adopted the language, and in modified forms, *he ])olitical and social systems of their European rulers. A taste for seclusion has always characterized the aburiyinal masses, height- ened by the geographical configuration of their peculiar territory. Upon the Pl.ATKAi:, elevated 7000 feet above the oceans, and encased within an uninterrupted barrier of snow, reside 9,000,000 of homogeneous people. An instinctive terror of the ocean, of the torrid heats aiul mala- rious atmosphere of the narrow coast on either sea, perpetually haunts the natives of the Pi.ATKAir. To them navigation is unknown, and maritime life is abhorrent. The 90 THE SYSTEM OF THE PARCS. industrial enorjiles of the people, always active and elastic, and always recoiling' from the sea, have expanded to the north, following the longi- tudinal direction of the great rivere. T]t!s column of 2)ro(jri:.ss advances from xDiitli to north ; it ascends the Rio Bravo del Norte ; it has reached and permanently occupies the soutlwrn half of the San Luis Pare. At the same moment the column of the American people, advancing in forc(! across the middle belt of the continent, from cast to iccsf, is solidly lodged upon the eastern flank of the Cordillera, and is everywhere enter- ing the pares through its passes. These two American populations, all of the Christian faith, here meet front to front, harmonize, intermarry, and reinvigorate the blended mass with the peculiar domestic accomplishments of each other. The Mexican contributes his primitive skill, inherited for centuries without change, in the manij)ulations o^ jiastoral and 7/(/;(//(^ industry, and in the tillage of the soil by artificial irrigation. The American adds to these machinery and the intelligence of expansive progress. The grafted stock has the sap of both. As the coming continental railways hasten to bind together our people isolated on the .seas, A LONGITUDINAL RAILWAY of 2000 miles will unite with these in their middle course, bisecting the Territory, States, and cities of 10,(100,000 of affiliated people. This will fuse and harmonize the iso- lated populations of our continent into one people, in all the relations of commerce, affinity, and concord. tic, and always iviiig the loiiyi- yress advances it has reached is Pare. e, advancing in west, is solidly erywhcre cnter- lith, here meet 10 blended mass d for centuries iiiiin(/ industry, A)iii:ricaii, adds ss. The grafted !ther our people miles will unite tates, and cities nionize the iso- 10 relations of I.">0 ll.'i ltd Li.". L!" l-'i l.'l' ll.'> 111* In:, 11)11 !).•. Ml) Jl.'. iU> )im^ <aSmSy. iio it> ^P*.syif ^ 4-' H Ol ■j5~-;v \ ..,v<' rfV"^ i^wfV' To the Aniei our I'litirc c(juii stood, ii vision Tlu'ie is rev( jiiissed, an iiscci It is here tlii CAN 1'KC»1'LE I heart a j)ious p Here are uni fnrcca. All of turo of a poll I attainable hy o P^niinent am Tf a navipit v>rtlcnJ})j into one, de<jrre of altitude of 2; At or about perpetual zero Tf he shall north pole, it miles, to expc has been encoi AVe will changes pecul One who ti citrcoim plain, the sugar belt cattle, and s\v At length, the consequently t? CHAPTER IX. TIIKKMAL AMEKICA. To tlie Anicriciiii who onnniihfrs in'f/iiii his minful yhuicr cvory detail of our entire country, from a position correetly seleeteil and riulitly under- stood, a vision of unjiaralleled splendor is unveiled. There i.s revealed to him a nasseent supremacy over all iliin<rs that arc pa.'^sed, an ascendency to which futurity can evolve no hojieful rival. It is htre that the ])re-eminently divine jiifts, vcmchsafed to the Ameri- can People hy God throvgh Xatiirr, speak out and enforce from every heart a i)ious prayer of thanksjrivintr. Here are united, in sjieeial majiiiitude, a variety of iinr ponrrs and fWsh forces. All of these combine to dictate, and are auspicious to, the struc- ture of a political society of vast dimensions, upon the hij^hest level attainahlc hy energetic intelligence, — order and mental culture. Kminent among these gifts is TiiEii.M.\L Sciknte. If a navigator, in the mid-oeean and beneath the ecpiator, .shall ascend rerticn/hy into the atmosphere, as in a balloon, he will experience a fall of one degree of annual menu lieat, as evidenced by the thermometer, at the altitude of 259 feet. At or about an altitude of 20,000 feet, he will find the temperature of perpetual zr.rn., where animal life and vegetation cease. If he shall then weigh anchor and sail along a ineruh'an line to the north pole, it will be necessary to traverse a full degree of hitltiitle. GOV miles, to experience along the sea-surface the same reduction of heat as has been encountered at 259 feet of ?c?Vw// altitude. We will learn from these facts the special combinations of climatic changes peculiar to and peculiarly favorable to North America. One who travels by a mcriduin line along the cinieave of the great cal- cnreoMs platn, from Cuba to the Arctic Sea, crosses in regular succession the sug-ar belt, the cotton belt, the belt of Indian corn, hemp, tobacco, cattle, and swine, tlic wheat belt, oats, rye, roots, the gra.sses, and barley. At length, the j perpetual Arctic fro.sts stop all vegetation, all culture, and coiLsequently all habitation. Such are the palpable changes ascribable to 01 4- If U I : I 92 Til EH MM AMEIttCA. I(il!tii.<li . ii|iiiii tlic niiitiiii'iitiil area i>(' small altitiuK' alxivo tlic Hoa, and within the iiinn'tiiiif fliinatcs. If the same traveller, f'acin.i:' to tlic left at the l(»th de-rree uf latitude, adherini;- tu this line, elinilis tlie ;:ra(liial ascent \\\' tlir (Imit l'!n!tis. snr- niounts the S.Nuwv XdltrilKKN A.NDKS, and reaches the l'acili<' ( ►ceaii. he ciicmmters a similar «utTes.sl(in of heltw of ve^'etation and animal life, fireatly foiniiressed in arrangement, and a.serihahli! to increasinii' niilinl altitude. TiiKiiMAL Science, iishiistcd by its haiidmaid mitioi-ohnji/, explains for us tlie iitiin>sj>/i(jrix which successively envelop the j^lobe of the earth outside, handles them, and fi.xes them witliout ohscurity. The filolie is closely enveloped by a shell of water, a.s the jiulp of an oranjre by its rind, throujrh which the continents and islands elevate and protrude them.selves. This is the AQCKOfs (ititinsjihrrr. ^'isillle to the eye, dense and viscid, the ranpe of its elasticity is measured by the sur- face undulations, liy the disturbances caused by winds and cyclones, and by the ri.se and fall of the tides against its sliores. Enveloping; tliis, aiul e.rfrnmf to it, is the AEHIAI. (ifnioHji/n'iY. This is invisible to the e^e, and highly elastic. Into it ascend tlie vapors ex- haled from the .surface of the sea and the land. These vajiors, variously condensed, float through this atmosphere in the form of clouds, and thus reveal themselves to vision. At an aliitude of 4(t0(l feet tliis AERIAL atmosphere terminates, being as the siToiid rind of an orange enveloping and external to the ^firsf. It ceases fun- as absolutely as does the iiquimis atmosjdiere under our feet. External to the «»'r(Vf/', and similarly enveloping it, is the ETIIKKEAL afmoxplicrr. This has the position and similitude of a third rind to an orange. Here the region of space is approached, where animal life, vege- tation, and clouds cease to exist. Physical geography defines those portions of the earth's surface within the <u'r!(d atuKtsphere, to possess a ji.vriti.me climate; those jiortions within the vtlwinil atmosphere to possess a CONTlXEXTAli climate. It is in the neighborhood of the l(l2d meridian, the eastern boundary of Colorado, where the altitude of 400(1 feet is attained and the region of the c'liifiiuiifii/ climate is apj)roaehed and entered. It is clear, then, that the whole prodigious .system of the North American Andes is within the eflirri'ii/ atmosphere, and in the region of the conti.N'ENTAL climate. Upon the region of the plohnout which extends casdrun/ from the abrupt base of the Cordilleras, are discernible counterpart phenomena as occur upon the shores of the oceans and illustrated by their tides. The highly clastic aerlnl atmosphere is .sometimes, by external pressure, HI; "ivo the sea, and TIIKItMAL .\MEIU('.\. 93 (1,mmI(i1 up til the very ha.-e of the Cunlillcia. This eausfj* the coni-ave siiitiiie i>t' tlie etliei'eal atiiKisphiTe. also liiirlily fla.-tic to asicinl. AIt«T- iiatcly, the (ti rinl atinusjilicre t'lihs liaek to its iKinnal h-vul. Thus is exiieileiieed, within this inarj:in. einliiaeiiif; the eonjuiieti<in of these two atinos|pheivs, an alternate play, as in (le|tri'ssed hinds wliieh are overflowi-d an>l then h'ft (h'y liy tlie tiiU-s ol'the sea. We have seen tiiat tlie ^Vo///i Aim icon Amliswxv lun;iitudinal in thtir direetion, reeeivinjr favorahly the hutting power of tiie sun uii all tlair flunks and evtTy siinnnit. Tht? outll.inkinjj; Oinlillini* fxalt their su- jiri'inc heads aljnve the line of ]K'r|i('tual frost. They winimw fniui tlie air all the vajiurs of the iiiiin'tiiiir world, and totally e.veludf tin-ir entraiiee witliiii. on to the Plntvnu. Carhonic aeid, liydrojren, nitroiit-n, are h-ft hclmv. Pun^ient, tonie, iiealth- and life-hei-towing oxygen remains to jKi.'^scss unadulterated and su]irenie dominion. ' These favorahle luoditieations of the tin rni<il laws, aetinir hx-itUij. hut over a stujieiidou.s area, f^ive and eoinhine warmth, dryness, u diminution of atniospherie pressure, a sun never elouded, serenity, and profase arljo- reseenee and vegetation. These influenc-es are expanded up and down the pntlirtni Plateau : tlu-y oviileaj) the narrow limits whieh elsewhere restriet tlie inDf/nrin'if Z'xli'u- : tlity push the favoral)le conditions of the isotiiermal axis, to the north and to the soutli, up and down the Plateau, in both directions, to its ex- treme limits. A sublime arcliiteeture acts through the vi.-ion. It exalts the heart and refines the taste of man. \ittinv is graceful, winning, and uninter- ruptedly friendly in every feature. Xow the vfitlvnl tin nnul Ix-lts. side by .--ide with the lion'::niitiil belts, comjire.ssed as a rainbow, are join.-)!, and the two thermal scales blend their areas. They expand from one another, augmenting manifold the auspicious thermal varieties. The stupendous mountain mass is elevated above the maritime and into the ctlunul atmosphere. The battU'iiieiits and summits pres<-nt con- secutively every front to the luorning. to the meridian, and to the de- scending sun. The fire of tht? sun perpetually pours down his heat through the pungent air and unclouded canopy. This warmth condeuses and exerts a favorable power round the year. The area of most auspicious isothermal unrmth is here expanded to the most immense dimensions and comj)rehe'.isive variety. The surfac-e is most favorably undulating. It v^ burnished with diss<jlving colors of the richest hues, and checkered with bewitching .scenery. The latitude is most favorable. The lomjitude is equally so. From this centre all the <,rand rivers radiate and descend uninterruptedly to all I 3 m IE ^i: •u TIIKIiMAL AMKHH'A. the eiiciiiiidiiciit iMciiiis, fvorywlu-n! coiiffaliul fnmi >ii:lit licvund ilir ciicirdiiru iKirizini. All iiiliiiliiliilili jiltiliidcs Huccct'd (iiic iiiHitlici'. 'I'licy arc jiniccl'iiilv McikIciI Mini cciiiiliiiinl, iis lire llio .stiviiks of the riiiiilMiw. Tlicv iimiir- (iiatcly tiiiicli and rest ii|i<iii ihk; aiiutlicr. All altitudoH arc ('i|ually upcii fill- individual clcctinii. This s|il('iidid ^Inictiirc anil tlirsc ](ruli(i(' jiil'ls arc jpnipliciic nCa mi- cicty inspired liy incnlal energies of the highest standard and reinliireed with iniiirejiiialile jiuwer. Here is diswrnilili! a treiiehant contrast and deficiency in architectural cconoiny. The Kuroiiean basins of the Mediterranean, the Haltic, the I'ontic and I'mjiontic have their calcareous Imttoins liuried, as in a tiiinli. Iiciicatli a sterile salt cxjianse. The interveninir ami ruiijicd nmnii- tliiii lands only are left dry and inhahitalile. This lullhuliiutl ex|iaii-c of sea, pniloiittcd fmni (iiliraltar to tlie Caucasus, incorrijiilily isolated Kurope from tropical Africa. This latter and ncighhoring continent liasi remained thus cut of}', unused and undcvelojicd. Tin; people of the iinrt/imi shore circumnavigato the glohe to liriii.; their jrrocerics from the Ornnfu I Wistirii Indii's. The llii iiiiiil liiiis have here operated since the liirth of time with un- releiitiiig hostility, and superadded their blasting power to the unfriendly anatomy of the land and water. In America, the jirolonged /V'^^r//^ surrounds .and envelops the Mex- ican an<l Carilibeaii Seas. It carries the isothermal warmth and railways into the very lu'st of tropical productions. Thus the widest extremes are iiropitiously combined in a single neighborhood and united in one domestic home. A special feature of this vast expanse within the rontinrii/iif climate is prntoral ogriciiltuie. Here the dryness and the unfaili'ig sunshine curl the grasses into hay upon the ground where they grow. Preserved thus from dt\cay, thi'y furnish tn'iifrr food, dispensing with the labor (if harvest. For (iniUf culfiu-f, which has the highest grade of excellence and the widest range in quality, variety, and f|uantity, a corresfionding economy is discernible in the univer.sal necessity and use of artificial irrigation. The waters, coming from the snows, descend from above. LnJinr is not liar- assed by mud or by the Injstile interruptions incidental to a fickle canopy. The .sloi)ing surfaces of land and water arc neighborly and friendly to each other: this relation is continuous from the highest altitude to the .seas. All civilized po]iulatioiis have been intensely sensitive to cl!m<it!c power, and iustiuctivcly oblicjue from excessive heat, cold, and damp. The latituJln d backboue which bisects the Asiatic-European continent from '•""' '" " upon its !tinilli> The iKiillii I' iiUy. without ni which in concei North Amcrici The ouniiiiotcn nr.'ativc, chilli The mental cliisivcly restri force has uiiiti nicnts. A SOU) ii febrile llnri tiociety univcr- the absence ot without elastii rnlill'rilf (I To the Ameri )/■(,/■/(/ are ilec( nii.ssive multit established it without cmer; There is di who are now i strife, an idol tion and to d people. To and curb it t it to this f/e with them. The grand Ocean, have poned in J( frt<ii<lli/ sile Tl!KR.MAl cepted, offer iuforce the c having solii of our nati cuncaitvlc i verge on tli i«r'-r-tiii Til El! MM. .WIKItir.K. 95 >i,:;Iit l.cvdii.l tl„. t! K'*''"' U\ \)y\\\<' from niKt III inst ri'ccivi'S tllc llfiltin^ ]«i\Vfr nl" tlic >llll. nml nil iif it, uiKiii its Kiiulhirii i Ii>|H' iiliiiir. TIk' iiDif/irrii sl(i|u'. asf^i^riicd to |Hr|iftUitl xliudc. receives us |ier|ietii- ally, witliniit iiiitipitiiiii, tlu; liyiM-rliDreaii lijinr. Tlie iininiatiii;: siiii-Iieiit, wliieli is ('DiicOiitratc'*! itiid eonileiisid witluiut t\\v rtmaivf atiipliillieatre of N'liifli Aiiieiiea, is here seatteri'd and dis>i]iate(I liy a liii<*tile nnin.r ro<il'. The iiiinii|Miteiit jMiwer nl'tlie l)eni;riiaiit flu rimtl Junrs is liere iiuivi'rsally iie^'ative, eliilliii;:, and linstile. Tlie mental liirccs and Hpcciilatiniis of the <iii/ii/iir wdiIiI Iiave heen ex- (lusively restriete(l to the eonte.ii|ilatiiiii of y</V/;«// states. The anareiiy of I'urce has uniforndy aeeoiii|ianied a convex j:eoi;rii|>liy of incoluTcnt fraji- iiicnts. A sour, saturated soil ; a dismal atmosphere exdusivtsly ninn'/iiiir ; a felirile llirnnnl condition; monotony: all these have ineuhated over Niciety universally and witli unrelieved jierpctuity. Society, dwarfed liy tile ahsenci^ of any jjjenerous inspirations, has been Hhiirfiish and vi'^etated without elasticity. I'li/i/iciif (1)1(1 social science liave found it inipo.wsihle to have hirth. To the American, experiences .sought for and derived from the nnlii/ne vorlil are deceptive, sombre, and di.scourajiinir. War, monarchy, and suh- niL-^sive multitudes oidy are seen. I'Icll lllicrtij has never permanently cstalilished itself. Societies luive firown to be polished and enervated without emerj;inf^ from senn-savajre barbarism. There is discernible in the temper of the p'neration of our statesmen who are now jias.sed away, and who have; seen our country saddened by civil strife, un idolatroua adulation ol' Europe; a proclivity to view with trepida- tion and to dwarf tin; aspirinir };enuis and elastic energies of tlie pioneer jieopht. To bridle the continental mission of the North American pcojile and curb it to the sway and dimensions of the Atlantic nhore, to restrict it to this geographical selvage, has not ceased to be a cherished policy with them. The jirand North American Andis, and the noio to us doniestir Pacific Ocean, have roceived oidy faint appreciation and acknowledgement ; post- poned in development from insufficient and stingy lej^islation or Ity un- friiiiillij silence. Tdku.mal Science, coming to be rightly understood and to be ac- cepted, offers itself to correct the general judgment and to rectify and re- inforce the cotKjuering forces of wund progress. The grand pioneer urmij, having solidly established its lodgments around tlic whole encircling rim of our national territory, gathers its columns faces inwards, a.>isumes a concentric movement, departs from the seas and from river-lines to con- verge on the centre. These columns unite by their flanks. They per- i m 'Hi m w m 9G TIlEltMM AMF/nCA. petuiillv iiKToaso in nuniliers. prossuro, and activity. The iiistinc/ nf gravitation, onliiilitonod liy TIIEH.mal SCIKXCK, jiains vohicity, .stciidi- ness. anil victory without tumult. The traces of frcop'aiiliical rniaiThij abate rajiitlly. They are aliout finally to be extiniiuislied forever, by the riiieninjr niovenTent which will soon re-annex to us the area of the Mexican Kepublic, on the one flank; the whole area of the Canailas. on the other flank. All that is necessary for this achievement, lonjj in preparation, ap- proaches its accomplishment. To fold to us these <lfn. csfic winp:s, too lonj^; stretched out and setrreuated from us, will fill out to the ocean bounds, and occupy tliroui;h all its solid dimensions, as well the stuiiendous architecture of our country as the perfectly graceful anatomy of it.s comjiact I'xpan.'ic. It is the discovery of inexhaustible precious metals within a projntinns thirmal 7M\\c that gives perjietual success to the (ioLl) Fkvkr. This defines itself as " the indefinite supply of koiiikI money for the peo]»le. by their own individual and voluntary labor." This is the discovery of the profound want and necessity of human society. It is the final and exhausting .solution of the heretofore enigmatical question, " What is the function and what i.s the power of finance in human organized .socie- ties ?" The FIX> NCIAL PROBLEAI, cs.sential to the healthy growth of every other problem in the scheme of civilization, is revealed, identified, and solved. The land area of the Territory of Colorado is 75,rOO,<:nO of acres. To reduce this area to use and private possession requires §100,000,000 to be paid by the penp^r to the Federal government. This immense sum is wrung from the meritorious and self-sacrificing labor of the pioneers — it is all carried forth and disbursed elsewhere. This is a ffahcl tax ; uncon- stitutional, aecumnlative over all other taxes, crippling, and atrocious. If this sum may be retained among those who pay it, the gain will lie to them 8200,000,000. It may be retained to reinforce and enhance the creative power of the pioneer army. If the State of Colorado, and other similar Territories, be sanctioned and self-government established, this may with ease be achieved. Let the sy.stem of land surveys and the price be untouched, but the payments enter the Sinte treasury. The disbursements shall be restricted to the construction of a complete net-work of railways ; to universal and per- petual education ; and to fit the lands for the production of food, by canals of irrigation and drainage. Within the State, integrity will be sternly enforced. These generous public benefits will be paid for and constructed by the people tliemselves. They will be per the will u'hI «"!» Tims }tnin'r!iii cultivated. Tr;i Civilization and blc and erects it.- eiiiiit'ihly i-itlm il dethroned. This public mutually emplo} It may be transj of the seas. Militari/ orgn embraces or enij Lidiiatfial 01 continually, wil Behold, then, America, unite( birth of *('('-■ an The existenc( possible or untl forces suddenly reverse their fr overwhelming s By the Lan( urcvl off' in the and tijipres.ied of them to use The Gold I indiviiJiKd and mull ipUcat ion in form, abund Government plified universi elements. The Cali/oi has in a decad Peak. It ha regenerate, to impregnable \ Its inspirii ■K«lirl THERMAL AMERICA. 97 They will be perpetually owned by, and used and guarded for and under tlic will and supervision of, the peojile. Thus viiinrsdl railways come into existence. The lands are idiivfrsul/i/ cultivated. Ti'an.s])ortation and travel /iiki; nations and populaiions. Civilization and c/r/'f order and civic discipline, for all, beconie.s po.ssi- blc iind erects itself. It maintains universal authority and power. Litlor iqiillithlij fiihn itself, and tlir political mid Jinancitil roltx'r is pcnnnncntli/ dtlhi'onid. This public policy will combine idle populations and idle lands, to mutually employ each other and to lire up the stajinant torpidity of both. It may be transi)lanted into Siberia and into all the coutinents and islands of the seas. Mi/itari/ organization, essentially monarchical and which but partially embraces or employs a whole j)opulation, will go out of existence. hidiistriid oryanization, which employs ALL LABOR, uniformly and eoiitiiiually, will displace and supersede it. Behold, then, in the novel and ausjiicious THERMAL splendor of Xorth Antiric-a, united with its physical confku'RATION and position, the birth {){' ncir and overwhelming powers and //v.s7( forces! The existence of thcsi,, or their comliination, has heretofure been ini- pcssible or unthought of in human experience. These fresh jwwcrs and forces suddenly unveil themselves, ferment and modify all societies and reverse their fronts. They dictate a cosmopolitan comity and assume an overwhelming sway. By the Land System, the idle lands throughout the world are me.as- ured off in the small. They are made attainal)lo for starving multitudes and (ippres.'.ril lab(*rers. An avarice for the possession and e(uiversion of them U> use in this form is kindled throughout all population.^. The Gold Fever is the indefinite production of sound money by the individual and voluntary labor of the people. This is fret tnouei/ ; tlie nuiltiplication of money capitals in the small, independent and indicidnnl in form, abundant in quantity, and prospectively indefinite. Government credit, rightly understood, reduced to discipline and am- plified universally, becomes available to combine and utilize these popular elements. The California Gold Fever had its invention and birth in 18-18. It has in a decade of years trans])lanted itself to Australasia and to Pike's Peak, It has permeated mankind as an electric fluid, to animate, to regenerate, to exalt humanity. It permanently fortifies pkouress with impregiuible power and activity. Its inspiring democratic genius has, within a quarter of a century. iff • %t i ■« 98 TIfEIiMAL AMERICA. covered the continents with railways and with telegraphs. It economizes navigation by its reduction to steam ferries upon the oceans and tele- graphic cables upon its profound bed. Immortal railways extend ♦'temselves, to become a universal sy.stem. nver all the land of the globe! The dwarfing power, the waste, the piratical temper, the monopoly of sea navigation is at an end. Its despotism and arrogance over the rural populations is absorbed and reversed. We have seen the energies of the American people, bringing into line and into use thc^c new powers, span their continent with the Pacific Railicai/, as with the rapidity of lightning from a mountain cloud. Availing themselves of the favorable thermal warmth upon the Phitrau, and ujion the inmiediate sea-coasts, bathed by the Asiatic Gulf Stream (the Suro-Siwo), they will continue to expand their work to Behring's Straits, where all the continents are united. This will prolong itself along the similarly propitious thermal selvage of the Oriental Kussian coasts, into China. To prolong this unbroken line of Cosmopolitan Railavays along the latitmlinal Plateau of Asia, to Moscow, to Berlin, to Paris, to Madrid, and to London, will not have long delay. The less significant and isolated continents of the Southern Hemi- sphere — South America, Africa, and Australasia — will be reached by feeders through Panama, Suez, and the chain of Oriental peninsulas and islands. The whole area and all the populations of the globe will be thus united and fused by land travel and by railicays. Behold what a short quarter of a century in time has sufficed to originate and accomplish, in an age awakened and armed with the subtle democratic power of free and abundant gold ! "What celerity of motion ! What vivacity of progress ! What victo- rious, what triumphant, what sublime energies ! What works of magni- tude ! How benignant to mankind ! How prophetic of the future ! How charitable to universal humanity 1 wmmm us thermal selvafre Railways alou<' rlin, to Paris, to CHAPTER X. THE NORTH AMERICAN MISSION. Ix the current of ages, mysteries become sciences. Vafruc speculation, long f'crnientintr, and jierjilexod by obscure doubts, produces facts. These crystallize into precious truth. From the blind conjectures of Astrol- oay has dawned the science of Astronomy ; from Alchemy has come Chemistry. The American jyeojyJe now reach and cross the threshold, where they cnuTse from the twilijiht of the futile world of thought behind. They enter into the full and perpetual light and promise ofpolllical and socia/ science. A glance of the eye, thrown across the Xortli Americnn continent, accompanying the course of the sun from ocean to occaji. reveals an extraordinary landscape. It displays iuunense forces, characterized by order, iictivity, and progress. The structure of nature — the marching of ? vast population — the crea- tions of the people, individually and combined — are seen in infinite vavieties of form and gigantic dimensions. Farms, cities, States, public works, define themselves, flash into form, accumulate, combine, and harmonize. The pioneer army perpetually advances, reconnoitres, strikes to the front. Empire plants itself upon the trails. Agitation, creative energy, industry, throb throughout and animate this crowding deluge. Conclusive occupa- tion, solidity, pemianence, and a stern discipline, attend every movement and illustrate every camp. The American realizes that " Progress is God." He clearly recognizes and accepts the continental mission of his country and his people. His faith is impregnably fortified by this vision of power, unity, and forward motion. As es.sential to all clearness of illustration, familiarity with the geoy- rapJii/ and physical structure of the American continent seems to me indispensable. Assuming the division of the Northern and Southern Continents to be at Pantima. from the same point depart the northern and southern systems of the Andes. These two systems of mountains assume special forms of 99 •ill ; t II \ n I 1 t 1 i. I 100 TI/E KOHTH AM ERIC AX M/i\SIOX. ondi ith the of structure, each one cor Tliey form the biickboiie of the skeletons upon which the continents are several y constructed. c Southern Atide . risiiijr out of the ocean at Cape Horn, traverse withotit interruption from south to north the whole length of the conti- nent. They form a continuous escarpment not remote from the shore of the Pacific Ocean, and curving with its indentations. Approaching the eipuitor, an expansion to the east forms the Peruvian Plateau, and is prolonged into the triangle of Brazil. The prolongations in this direction extend to the Atlantic, and separate asunder the radiant basins of the La Plata* Amazon, Orinoco, and Magdalcna Kivers. The shape of the continent, enveloped all round by the sea, and that of the mountain system, are reciprocally fitted to each other. The Xorthcrn Amlin, departing from J'uikiiiih and contracted by the seas, traverse Central America to Tehuantepec. From hence, an inmiense expansion in width of the Northern Continent is accompanied by a cor- responding increase i:. the magnitude and altitude of the mountain system. An immense I'hitaiv, flanked by the Cordilleras, expands from sea to sea. On the cant the Cordillera of the Eocky IMountains rises flush from tile shores of the Mexican Gulf On the iveat th., Cordillera Nevada rises from the shores of the ocean and the California Gulf The Sierra Nevada, the Western Cordillera, like the Southern Andes, erects itself eontiiuunisly from the Pacific Ocean, whose indented shore it accompanies to Behring Strait. The Eastern Cordillera obliques from the IMexican Gulf, where the latter is curved to the east by the immense increasing amplitude of the Northern Continent. This Cordillera is flanked lienceforward along its biise liy the ^lissi.ssippi basin, whose indented shore and plain it con- tinuously overlooks. In tlie neighborhood of the 40th degree of latitude, the maximum width of the Northern Continent is reached. This continent differs from the Southern in the intense magnitude of its anatomy. Its whole area, alike with each of its composing details, is thus magnified. The radiant basins of the Mississipjti, the St. Lawrence, the Hudson's Bay and Athabasca, depart from it. The Northern Aiules here attain a breadth of 1200 miles, and assume their most stupend<u>s dimensions. They include many snowy sierras and a multitude of peaks. From this latitude of greatest expansion, the nuiuntain system contracts towards the north : the Cordilleras converge at Behring's Strait as at Tehuantepec : tluy are again condensed into one. The system of the Northern An area of Nort Defined Ijj on all point> lengtli, and north-northw identifies the This simil systems. Tl and Chili t diverge with ruvian Plate New Granad and the exte If, then, t be arranged five years, tl America in i This simp the mind, it the stupendt all the radia radiate or d condense tlu This stuj into two he Atlantic, tow Here is the i To this ci basins, is at march to m We have plete dimen.' of north hit characterize on either ot confluent ri protrudes it focal region the confine outflanking THE NORTH AMERICAN MISSION. 101 Northern Andes thus occupies and elevates itself aljove one-third of the area of North America. Detiiied by itself, it is a prolonged diamond-shaped parallelogram, faced on all points by the Cordilleras, lonyltudliiid in position, IKMIO miles in len"'th, and 1200 in width. It has a direction from south-.southeast to north-northwest. Similitude in anatomical structure therefore perfectly identifies the two continents. This similitude of profile holds eqiuilly between the two mountain systems. The Suntherii Andes exhibit in their cour.se through Patagonia and Chili two summit ridges parallel and in close proximity. These diverge with the increasing width of the continent, and enclo.xe the Pe- ruvian Plateau and its extensions into Bolivia and the elevated plains of New Granada. The same peculiarity is seen in narrow Central America and the extension to the north. If, then, the imperfectly developed anatomy of a youth of five years be arranged side by side with that of his maturity at the age of thirty- five years, the relative resemblances and contrasts of South and North America in their whole anatomy will be familiarly illustrated. This simplicity of structure pervading the whole .system, being held in the mind, it is nianifest that the On-dillcra of the lioclij Muunfjiins is the stupendous dor.sal foundation upon whose prodigious mass and solidity all the radiant limbs rest. From this, including the Alleghanies, they all radiate or depend as outliers. Into this they all ultimately group and condense themselves. This stupendous longitudinal Cordillera segregates the physical globe into two hemispheres. These two hemispheres present the basin of the Atlnitfic towards the rising sun, thatof tiie Paeijic towards the setting sun. Here is the supreme meridian altitude up to which the whole globe slopes ! To this crowning ridge human society, emerging from the two ocean basins, is at present climbing; the two halves i»3nt face to face; they march to meet — to unite and harmonize over this summit ! We have seen that the American continent expands to its most com- plete dimensions and amplitude where it is traversed by \\\q fortieth degree of north latitude. A symmetrical harmony, perfect in every detail, here characterizes all the departments of nature — an ample depth of seaboard on either ocean — the sujireme expanse of the Mississippi Basin — its great confluent rivers — the grand width of the mountain Plateau, which here protrudes its extreme salient corners to the east and to the west — to this focal region it rises in altitude, nni.ss, and dimensions, from every point of the continental horizon. It here displays over its area, and in the outflanking Cordilleras, a hundred snow-crowned peaks. i-i / / L'<>! I.'H fc-^/.v ' 1^ c .^r •>\> 'W,, =•'«., "H />/ t^^' 'n 1. 'lit *•» "i^-w ,ii'w<. 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WIS oi IXTEXSITY and lis (wpjmsioiis nn nud down Ihc \ IM.A i KAF S-s ii.iifi" :iC^- ll.-> 110 1(1.-. lOO J B.Lippincott S Co.Pltitt. 102 THE NORTH AMERICAN MISSION If Here arise in cloud-coiiijiolling majesty the continental jiillars, Long's Peak and Pike's Peak. 15(1 miles apart; through the intermediate sijuce traverses the fo it it f/i liii/neot' north latitude. From their summits depart the waters to seek the Asiatie and Euroj)ean seas. Hither the eontiiiental slopea mounting upwards intni all the oceans converge and culminate: from hence all the descending waters radiate. Here, in the midst of the grand works of nature — multitudinous in variety, suhlime in vastness, in order, and in beauty — are assemliled all the natural gilts whicli human society needs, or may demand for the most complete development. Here the supreme Cordillera envelo])s in its fnlils a group of gigantic valleys known as the " S>/>ifini nf the J'liirf of Col,, railu." Of all the gems displayed here and there in the physical varieties which checker the earths surface, this group is the most gigantic in dimensions ; the most transcendently excellent in hitnUty ; the mo.-*t wonderful, curious, and attractive. The Pakcs hf.stiude the line of wav-tuavel of mankind at a point of i'akamocnt control. Here meet and mingle mountains, plains, valleys, rivers, in confluent affluence, in immensity of proj)ortions, order, and graceful fori.is. The pungent and tonic atmo.sphere preserves the highest standard of modera- tion and excellence round the year. The oceans are not far off", and are easily accessible over uniformly descending slopes. Pastoral agriculture, mining, arable agriculture, manufactures, com- merce — each of these has the essential elements of a couijuering power ; — they are here all blended, each self-supporting, and each stimulating all the rest. The affluence of nature and the prolific generosity of her pro- portions are miraculous. The Parcs occupy, longitudinall}'. the centre of Colarado, passing through and through, from south to north. The whole area of Colorado, lOT.OllO s(|uare miles (70,000,000 acres), is so folded around them as to con.stitutc their frame and envelope, incapable of being segregated from them. These Parcs, thus mounting from south to north, one upon the other, are of very nearly equal area. They are the San Lui" the South, the INIiddle, and the *, -rth Parcs. The elliptical area of the San Luis Pare is 18,000 square miles (11,520,000 acres). Their similarity one to another, as members of one family, is perfect. The internal details of structure, form, and scenery are infinitely variegated. Kach one, examined by itself, seems to surj)ass the rest in eminent convenience and beauty. The climatic geniality of "mmmsmtmmm THE NORTH AMEIllCAN MISSIOS. 103 L OF MANKIND AT 10 upon the other, toniporaturc and salubrity have not a sinjrle blemish. They perpetually pruiiiiit and .stimulate mental enerjry and j)hysical activity. I am .struj.'f:ling to narrate faithtully the homespun facts of nature : to exiiiiixerate is far from my intention. The .splendid ma;_'nitude of the anliitccture — the faultless proportions everywhere discernible — the '.rrace- fiil u'riiiipini^ of propitious and beni;^nant element.s — the far-searehiiij;; vi>i(iii and re.sj)lendent panorama — all these unite to reveal to the judg- ment that omnipotent nature here culminates her work, and has planted the life-'rivin<^ heart of the terrestrial .scheme. To illustrate this wonderful eontiguration, as with a model of dl- mi'iiiifi've size, the Alps of Europe j)resent an example. A spectator, from the .supreme summit of the Helvetian Peaks, beholds radiating from his feet the diverging chainiels of the Po, the Rhine, the Rhone, ami the Danube. As they depart, the small lake basin.s or pmcs of Geneva and Constance gather the drippings of the glaciers ; and the river basins open out to share between them the widening expanse of the cciitinent. The waters of the Mediterranean Sea are visible towards Genoa — those of the Adriatic towards Venice. Biscay, and the German and Pontic Seas, are more remote. Within a horizon whose diameter is 300 miles, are, at present, congregated 45,0(10,000 of population, who occupy the river basins and the rugged ground. Since the wars of Julius Cte.sar, the progress of the people within this area '>.is been sluggish and jiainful ; civilization yet continues crepuscular, and its languid tire is maintained with difficulty. A hostile climatologj-, forever incubating upon nature and man, saddens labor, chills its elas- ticity, and .stagmites hope. The evil passions of force and despair rule ; the energies of labor and virtue are crushed out by a perj)etually cor- roding pressure. The incessant vapors from the neighboring seas, brought in by every wind, bathe perpetually the mountain altitudes : these are thus enciused to their very roots with unfathonnible depths of ice, which never melts. The soil of Europe, saturated by chilling tugs, and veiled by them and by forests from the sun, is cold and sour — the atmosphere febrile and inimical to life. Seamed with mountain bones from west to east — pinched in and trenched upon around its margin by the salt wastes of Biscay and the German Ocean — by the Baltic, the Mediterranean, and the Portic Se;is — Europe is a promontory pendent from the solid dimensions of Asia, having only one-sixth of its area. Its convex surface and ragged shores — its humid atmosphere — its large 1 I'J ! m i^ 1 1 ly 104 THE NORTH AMKUICAy MISSION. area, oxpaiuliiig from an I'djic nf \.\w tiiniiorate into the friijid zone of wainitli ; — tlii'.so ilwaif an well the hnhistiy an the niiiul of ii>an. Asia and JMir(i|ic iircscnt a (•(intiniiniis snow-crt'stoil wall,»(f.v^ nud n-fKf^ fmni China to (iilnaitar, risinjj; alimiitly and not liir ivinovcd from the southern seas. From this coiiitx crest, to the nortli, descends as eon- tinuously a hyperhoreaii slojje, withdrawn from tlie sun, and resting only within tile oliliijue and ehillint: shadow of his rays. In contrast, the li>ii<j!ti((lln<il direction and douhle structure of the North American And<s opens them to the d'rectly seurehintr and om- nijiotent jxiwer of the meridian sun : tlu'ir outward flanks receive the temperinji glories of his morning and his evening heams. TItnir oltl cdiitiiiriitH arc, in tlmir abstract j'urm (jj' struct it rr, convex a$ the camil's hack-. The Cordilleras of North America and tlieir outliers, from north to south in direction and ranging round near the oceans, give to the con- tinent a vast ami sjifiii</i<i concave structure. This incessantly receives and ahsorhs the direct solar rays. North America is a sublinu! anqilu'l/icatre, of gorgeous fertility and transcendent proportions. The vast surface of concentric ba.iins is uni- formly c<ilcar<ous — it is scarcely less in expanse; of area, or more undu- lating, than the oceans. This comprehensive area, mellow and .salubrious, is fattened everywhere, and refreshed l)y the soils abraded from the moun- tains. It may receive by innnigration, and sustain witliout surfeit, the existing populations of tlie globe. Cumulative with this is the ausjticious structure of the longitudinal Sierras. Where Colorado embraces and arches over the extreme salient corner of the Cordillera, is found the stupendous culmination in bulk and altitude of the mountains, of the valleys, of the running waters, and of the climatology of the whole continent. To this supreme apex the whole continent ascends, by easy gradations, from the trough of the Mississippi on the one liand, from the shores of tlie Pacific on the other hand. Here is the summit altitude of a stuj)en- dous cone of elevation, who.se diameter has a foundation of 20(tt> miles. Into the summit area of this truncated cone of elevation are niorti.sed to a profound depth the valleys which make up the " System of tltc Pares."* These collect and send forth the fresh waters, like the arterial blood gath- ered and distributed from the human heart. From lience dei)art ten rivers : the North Plattti, to the north ; the South Platte, to the northeast ; the Kansas, to the enst ; the Arkan.sas and Canadian, to the southeast ; the Rio Bravo del Norte, due so h into the Mexican (julf ; the !San Juan, Fiagle, and Grand Colorado Kivers, to THE SOItTII AMEmr.W MI.SSIOX. 105 nicfiiir, cunvrx as tlie nuKl/iiint, ii'to till! Uulf of ('alifuniiaj the CJret'ii IliviT, t»i the Viirtiiiri'sf. Tlic Ninth I'latto dcsiriuls, witlmiit ilcflrctiiiii. to the direct mirth for .VMI miles to rcirivi- the Sweetwater. Kiniii this jtoint the \TatiT-«haniicls (if tlii^ Vellowstiiiie, tlie Missnuri, ami the Saskatchewan li>riii a ruiitiiiii- oiis iiiiil ea«y <:vadati(iii to JIiiiLioii's /{<ij/. 1'a.ssiiij: hy the (in-t'ii and Siiiikc Uiveis, where their extreme sourees intersjeet, a similar cinitiniioiis griidiilioii is tuiind out to llu' Xoilli I'mljlr. Tims, upon this tiioiiiilnin xidiiiiiit uf CiAnntiln. the aseendin:: valleys L'diivei'^e \\» HO many enormous wedges, ten in numln-r, arnin^ed with their jKiints fiTouiH'd in (umtaet. The passes over the Sierras, at the prolonired extremities of the:<u valleys, re-enteriiit; thus upon one another, are numerous and easy. They iiinipUte the throuj;h lines of jia.ssa};e ai-ross the continent. These make a converiiciae here, from the two fronts of the continent, resemhlim; the glolies of an hour-gla.ss communicating through the stem which unites tlieiii. The niiraclo of the.se hroadly exjianded altitudes is their cUnutt<Ji>gy. Altituiie ahovc the seas; latitude and longitude ; seclusion from the .s-as; coiuliine to perfi-ct the moderation in temjieiature. the drYnt>ss. the salu- brity, and the splendor of the atmosphere. The light and fire of the sun rule the day and night, the .seasons, the tides, the vtigetatioii of nature, life and death uiMin the hind and in the soa. IxittlicritHil urinivc thus explains how the mind of man, in harmony with the supreme order of nature, intuitively adju ts it.si'lf to the revolu- tions of the sun and is temjiered hy 1 s heat. The iiortlwrn liemisphere of the globe ha.s around it all the continents of tli(! land, holding the dimini.shed .seas in the intervals )x-tween them. The races white in color inhabit and restrict themselves to a narrow K-lt or zodiac, girdling this hemispliere of the continents round and ri>und. This belt straddles an axis of Intvnulti/ whose annual mean tem|ierature is 52 degrees of Fahrenheit : it has thirty degrees of hreadth. being fifteen degrees to the south and fifteen degrees to the north of the axi.s. Incorrectly delineated on the luiniature globes, this n.cis o/intfiisifi/ would correspond with the 40th degree of north latitude, and the zone of tem- perate warmth will embrace the belt of the globe fenced within the 25th and i'l'ith degrees. lint profound modifications of temperature are wrought by tlie alter- nating presence and special configurations of oceans and eontinent.s: by the power of atmospheric and of ocean currents ; hy the subtle forces of electricity, gravitation, and the iiurcurial gestations of nature. ** 5! ■H-'j lOG THE NORTH AMERICAN MISSION. This iixIk nf iii/tiiHi'ty is, tluTcforc, an timlulatiiiy lino. It iiiclics towards the (M|ual(ir, whcri! it travcrsoH the ileptlis of the contim-nt. It arclics tdwards tlic luirtli iiolc over i\w ('X|)ans<'s of tlio nccaiis. Witliiii tills isdtlicrinai licit, and rt'strictcd to it. tlu> cdlunni nl'tlic liuinaii iainily, with whipiii aliidcs the .saciril and iiis|)iri'il tiro of civilization, indniijiuiii/- 1111/ t/ir sun, has marched from ca.st to wcwt, since the birth of titnc. I'lion this ii.cin "/ iiifiiisifi/ htwL' been coiistrnctcd the jrrcat jiriniary cities, which hiivc liei'n from a^e to a;re the /oc/ from which have nn/in/nl intellectual activity and jiower. Jiiininls, and ctinverjiing uiion this axis, have always ])reHsed the periodical mif^ratory and military movements of the human masses. These, recoiliiii.' alike from northern cold and from southern heats, .seek instinctively a temperate and coniienial warmth. Of this hiirhly artificial and disciplined .system of civilization wo Americans form a part. It is transniittt;d from the very dawn of anticpiity, and is inherited. History is the diary of its jreojrrapliical progress, of its periods of hrijrhtness and obscurity, of its stru^jilcs and of its encr^iies. When society lias attained its larfjest numeri(;al stronjith, accomiilisli- in^ the hij.die.-t level of intellipMice and the lon>>;e.st duration, it is defined to be an ritijn'rr. History occupies its»;lf with the biofrraphy of this{' empires — their rise, culmination, and docadenci!. They form a xuccissioii n\o\;'^ tin undulating zone of the n< *hern hemispliere of the ulobe, within the isothermal belt. They for. wi .n it a continuous zodiac from east to west. These niijiins are the Chine.se, the Indian, the Persian, the Grecian, the Koman, the Spanish, the IJritish, finally, the rcpnUlcnn rnijiirt: of the peojile of North America. These are tlu^ essential orjianizations which have received ; hold intelli- jrontly for a few centuries each, the vestal tordi of civilization ; porjictu- atcd and transmitted it with more or less fidelity. / rr/xitt nffulii tin- fiK't, that this zone bolts the globe around where the continents expand and the oceans contract: i* un<lulatos witli the axis of warm tomiioraturo (52 degrees of mean heal) : it contains ninety-five one-hundrodths of the white peojilc of the globe, and all its civilizaticui ! As a perj)etual and instinctive pressure tends to condense population on to the i.srtt/irninif twis, so it thins out and attenuates in vitality and num- bers — roj)ellod by ho.stile heats on the one hand, and by cold on the other — until the edge is reached beyond which the white races make no perma- nent lodgment in either direction. On th( vast niuui where the tion. This fa% exhibit a Never seri municipal (doulile tin in concord Hut the mountain s crn I'iUropi inclement ii Houthcrn bi Here th( left unocci dwarfed in telligont ai Everyw (//r.s.s lii'iin tiuns from the Persia the SDUthi;, or the wat and small If, then htistile i/ri society ha rassed, an Tlu! sni form, sho I uutliern lieatH, stjok CilAPTKR XI. THE NORTH AMKUIl'AN MISSION — CONTINUED. ().\ tilt! Orii 11/11/ Hlofv if AhIii, bctwi'un the ulirujit ti-niiiiiatidii (if the \i\xt iniiiiiitaiii hulk iiiid tliu KuHtitrii Uceaii, in I'oiind an aiii|il(' ri-<;i<iii whviv the wlujle width of the tcinp'-rtttr ;o/(c invites and I'liscs jHijiula- tiiiii. Thi.s favored nrwi is occupied hy tlic Chinese, who.sc institutidiis e.Nliildl a fiiowtii of dcvclopuicut exti'iidiiij; over five tiiousaiid years. Never seriously iiiterru]itt'd, jirojrress has .sn jierfeeted a h()iiin|.:ciie(ius niuiiieipal system of laws and edueatiiei, that l.")((,(K)l>, ()()() of jwipulatioii (doulile that of all Kurope) are united in one harmonious political .sy.stem in concord and trani|uillity. Hut the western frontier of f'lllNA is hloekaded hy the inhospitahle mountain .system which prolonjrs it.scll" continunusly from In ncf to West- ern Euntpe. The column of progress has recoiled abrujitly from their incl(,'ni(!nt altitudes, aiid restricts it.self to the narrow niarjrin between their southern base aiid the raji<redly indented sea-coast. Hen; the northern half, or .srH(('-zone, of the isaf/irniKif luff, has been left uniiccu])ied ; society is cut in half, crippled in territory, and fatally dwarfed in variety and numbers. It hius vej^etated without elasticity ; iinin- tellij:ent and .slugf^i.sh. Hverywhere pinclu^d in or r- pelled by inland seas, tlif oiiii-iird pm- (/n'Ks hiiivc to the in.stfni s/iorrs <>/- Kiimpr, exhibits only transient exemp- tions from demoralization and disorder. Absorbed by the sterile areas of the I'ersian Gulf, the Pontic, Projiontie and Meditern.aeaii Seas, land in the muthurn half of the isothermal zone is here eitlier totally wanting, or the water surface is only freckled by a stingy succession of peninsulas and small islands, inhabited in broken links. If, then, the area occupied l)y CiiiXA be alone excepted, the narrow and hostile (jiogmithlail structure of the uiargin along which the column of society has struggled through Asia and Eliiope, ex{)lains its slow, embar- ra.s.sed, and fitl'ul advance. The small empires which have partially ripened have been distorted in form, sliort-lived ; disordered by anarchy ; heterogeneous and coiifust'd in 107 I ;•] 108 THE SOUTH AMERICAN MISSION. eleuiciits. In Asia they appear emasculated by the loss of the nortlurn temperate semi-zone; in Elroi'K, ly a counterpart deficiency of the southtrii semi-zone. As the great ocean chafes perpetually, and tortures itself anionfi the narrow seas, only to become crij)pled in powci and turbid in color and temper : so, a similar acrid turbulence, and loss of the inspiring instincts of power and of moderation, have characterized the mutilated society cramped in along the line of march through Southern Asia and the aotith and west of Europe. The sanguinary incubation of military despotisms over multitudinous millions of passive and up chronicled serfs, presents a sombre canopy, through whose darkness the lightning of intelligence has scarcely flashed. Sanguinary monarchies and submis.«'ve subjects alone are seen. The instinct of the American people has located and erected the grand maritime cities of Philadelphia, New York, and Baltimore, where our continent receives the axis of the isothermal zone. Entering here from the east, and favored by the auspicious architecture of our continent, this axis of intensity traverses it athwart to the Pacific Ocean. It deviates little from the fortieth degree of lat^ude, arching from it slightly in the middle range towards the south. Here au.spicious nature unveils every propitious gift. The energy of progress, always salient upon this line, has located along it all the first selected and cliiof cities — Pitts- burg, Cincinnati, St. Louis, Leavenworth and Kansas, Denver, Salt Lake City, Virginia, San Francisco. Here the intrepid energies of the pioneer population have first and chiefly condensed themselves in force. But we have seen that North America is a vast amphitheatre, and is concave in configur."'tion. Its valleys, its mountain chains, its rivers, its Cordilleras, its ocean boundaries; are all and all alike longitudinal. The whole breadth of continent, beneath the isotherm (d zone from Cuba to Hudson's Bay, presents an undeviating harmony. This longitudinal expansion runs flush into the arctic zone, and into the equatorial zone, absolutely without any barrier or obstruction to its undulating smoothness of surface. Nature is benignant and graceful throughout her wl ole scheme, and is propitious in the working of all lier laws, and in every clement. The longitudincj mountains receive the glory of the morning and evening sun upon their flanks, the noontide beams upon their summits — they cast no chilling shadow. The sun's immortal flame is never withheld, hut perpetually instils his meridian tire through all living nature, and into the hearts of men, of women, and of growing children. Humanity, nurtured in this afllucmc of divine wan and immortal The contr (lisfcrnible. perennial dis( and condense In Asia r eordiint natii by 1:57 indei this vast arci ism have bee viduiil liberti few, traii.'^ien XouTii A lilierties, sel been normal military desj tinent. The Indes one by one, suflicient nu: advance fron ignorance, ai ileniorratic-r perpetuated As the col in a closed c oceiins and being eipiid HlKOl'K vest, deboui slopes. Asia sin contains hi di'tached is' I'ul of activ The disti the sun, is These ar these contr America. THE NORTH AMERICAS MISSION. 109 'qiiiitoriuf zone, iiic sniootliness of divine waniith, instinetively receives iinJ eultivatcs discipline, eliistieity, and immortal pr0j.7e.ss. The contra.sted structure of the continents is therefore familiarly discernible. The one couvrx — its surface se<rregated — and afflicted with jiercnnial di.^cord. The other coucnir — formed to concentrate all things, and condense them into everlasting unity, order, and concord. In Asia resides a pojiulation of 84(),()()0,(IOtl, distributed into ofiO di.s- ciirdant nationalities. In Ei:rope 2r)9,(MKI,1»0U of population, distracted by 1I>7 indeiiendcnt morarchies. Among these immense hosts, and over this vast area, since the dawn of history, monarchy and military despot- ism have been invariable and universal. The struggles to achieve the indi- vidual liberties, self-government, and civilization of the people have been few, trau.><ient, and abortive. NdHTii A.MKRicA has a population of r><),0()(),(KIO. With them the liberties, self-government, and civilization of the people are and have been ncrmal and universal in principle and practice. Monarchy and military di'spotism have been always unknown and absent from our con- tinent. The Indestructible jirinciple.s of social and political science are rescued, one by one, from the chaos and rubbish of Europe. Tiiey are known in sufficient nund)ers to perjietuate. to combine am; xbrtify themselves — to advance from discovery to discover}' — from victory to victory, over force, ignorance, and blind error. Rescued f'\iui the (piicksands of the past, ihin<jcratlc-r".puhUcnupi)wcr, rightly un lerstanding itself, has here set and pcrjK'tuated in the world its own indestroctible foundations. As the continent.s and oceans of the n(jrth"rn hemisphere wrap the globe in a clo.sed circle, Amfilcn /.s an islnnil. She is intermediate between the oceans and the outward jjrotruding extremities of the other continent, being c(|uidistant from them. Ki'Kul'K opens all the outlets of its inland seas and rivers towards the nrs/, debouching on to our Atlantic front, towards which its whole surface slopes. Asia similarly piv'sents to our Pacific front an Oiuiitiif slope. This contains her great rivers, the densest masses of lier i>oi)ulation, and ilctached i.slands of great area. Tb'" >: gorgeous archipelagoes arc brim- ful of active populations, and of infinite production. The distance from the KiimpcdH to the Asinn shores, as we accompany the sun, is l((,(((l() geographical miles! These ancient masses of population, (lien, fxivk to hack, and descending these contra.sted slopes, both IVont America — they face one am)ther iicro.ss America. The short line of mutual approach is the axis ol" isothermal I m 110 THE NORTH AMERICAN MISSION. warmth, pcnotrating four-fifths of the land, and nine-tenths of the popu- 'ition of the {."■lobe ! lliia In tJie line of way-trawl of all the white races, of the coniwercia. uctivity and industry of the zodiac of cicilization ! As, then, tliis interval of North America is filled up, the afliliation of all niankird will be aceoniplished : proximity recognized : the distractions of intervfiiiiig oceans and equatorial heats cease : the remotest nations be grouped together and fused into one universal and hamionittus system of fratenud relations. Here, then, at this moment, by the arrival of the American people on the summit of the Cordillera, ascending and conquering both its flanks simultaneously, tlie most stariling fact of all time reveals itself — aus- picious to the whole human race, and pregnant with tlie most portentousi and immediate consequences. Suddenly the mysteries of geograi)hica) progress are resolved — light and victory substitute them.selves for '.arkness and distrust. Why the halves of the human race, marching the one half towards the setting sun, and the other half towards the rising sun, and ])erpetually departing a.sunder — separated in the reai by insuperable physical barriers — broken apart by hostile forces and ob.?tacles — have maintained feebly, and often entirely lo.st, their mutual relations, is clearly revealed ! Now, at thix hour, this progress of mutual departure is complete, and completely reversed. Upon the auspicious arena of the American conti- nent and the I'acifie Ocean, these columns surprise one another in over- wheh >ing force and numbers. They encounter, face to face, and front to front. The mission of each and both manifests itself That peace and charity are possible in the world is recognized — chronic war unnecessary, and a consuming blunder. The.se multitudes behold one another — the weapons of mutual .slaughter are hurled away — the sanguinary pa.ssions of a consuming rapacity find a check — a majority of the human family is found to accept and protect the es-sential teachings of Christianity in practice. Koom is discovered for industrial virtue and industrial power. The civilized masses of the world meet — they mutually explain and under- stand one another — they are m itually enlightened, and fraternize to re- con.stitute human relations and institutions in harmony with nature and with God. The world may cease to be a unanimous military camp, incubated only by the malignant principles of arbitrary force an<l altject submission. A new and grand order in human iiffairs inaugurates itself out of these immense concurrent discoveries and events. THE NORTH AMERICAN MISSION. Ill The groat heart of American society palpitates with new fire.«, i ipelled by a univei-sal instinct, inspiring discipline in action and rectitude of purpose. Science illuminates their work ; circumstances favor and dictate success to their energies. A divine light, issuing out of the obscurity of the past, shines upon our country and upon our people. It speaks out in the never-silent oracles of Nature, in response to which each inilicidiial heart is free to re-echo and reflect. A finite goal is unveiled to them, and distinctly seen — its pos- ses.sion and fruition arc intelligibly revealed. The (fratdr, from 1840 to 1850, has become forever memorable by a crowning discovery made and victory won by the genius of the pioneers. I mean the " OOLD FEVKR." Hie Imlffinite production tiiid inidtipli- catioti of sound money hi/ the individual and voluntary labor of the jieoplc. Lnhor and industry construct their own empire and assume the adminis- tration of governments. Steam upon the ocean and upon the land : more potent than armies : conden.ses labor, and magnifies indefinitely its power and its results. The ameliorating graces of commerce are rescued from the despotic monopoly of riparian cities, isolated on the fringe of the sea. They transport themselves in generous profusion to the homes of the people, where they live in the depths of the continents. They are dif- fused to them as the renovating rain of summer distils its drops to every forest tree, to every blade of grain, and to each individual flower. The consuming voracity of government : administered only in the interests of trade and the engulfing rapacity of maritime cities : is uprooted. Equality and equity in the administration of power are brought within the reach and practice of RURAL populations. Whereas the energies and the conquests of the pioneer army of the people ; during the last quarter of a century ; have caused the most significant and profound perturbations of society throughout the world — as to them also, the City of Denver owes her location and her future — it is necessary to illustrate the causes of this extraordinary freshness and activity. On July -Ith, 18-19, speaking by their invitation to the California emi- grants about to depart from the Missouri River, I used this language : — "Up to the year 18-40, the progress whereby twenty-six States and four Territories have been established and peopled, has amounted to a solid strip, rescued from the wilderness, 24 miles in depth, added annually along the western face of the Union, from Canada to the (>u!f of Mexico. " This occupation of wild territory, accumulating outward like the annual rings of our forest trees, proceeds with all the solemnity of a providential v:m ^y^ 112 THE XDRTH AMERfCAX MlSSfOX. ordiiiMiico. It is at tliis inomeiit sweeping onward to tlio Pacific with accelerated activity and force, like a dchijie of men, risinj^ unalmtcdly, and daily pushed onward liy the hand of (lod. " Fronting tlie Union, on every side, is a vast arnii/ of ji!(mrvrs. This active host, innnliering 50(1,0(10 at least, has the movements mid ohcys the discipline of a jierfectly organized military force. It is momentarily recruited hy single individuals, liy families: and in some instances hy whole communities: from every village, county, city, and State oi' the Union, and ])y immigrants from other nations. " Eacli ))iitn in the moving throng is in force a platoon. lie makes a farm on the outer edge of the settlements, whicli lie oceui)ies for a year. He then sells to the leading files jiressing uj> to liim from heiiind. Ho again advances 24 miles, renews his farm, is again overtaken iind again sells. As hulivUlnah fall out from the front ranks, or fix themst^lvcs permanently, others ru.sh from hehind, pass to the front, and assail the wilderness in their turn. " Pncloim to the recently concluded war with jMexico, this energetic throng was cngaf:,od at one point in occupying the Peninsula of Florida and lands vacated hy emigrant Indian tribes. At another point in reach- ing the cojiper region of Lake Superior: in ab.sorhing Iowa and Wis- consin. From this very spot had gone forth a forlorn hope to o((U])y Oregon and California. Texas was tlius amiexed — the Indian cmnitry presseil upon its flank.'^ — spy companies reconnoitred New and Old Mexico. " Even then : obeying the my.sterious and inscrutable impulse which drives our nation to its goal : a body of the liardiest race that ever faced varied and unnumbered dangers and privations, embarked upon the trail to the Pacific coast. They forced their way to the end : encountering and defying difficulties unjiaralleled ; with a courage and success the like to which the world has not heretofore seen. " Thus, then, overland sweeps this tidal wave of population, a))Sorbing in its thundering march tlie glebe, the savages, and the wild bea.sts of the wilderness : scaling the mountains, and debouching down upon the seaboard. Upon the liigh Atlantic sea-coa,st. the pioneer force has thrown itself into ships, and found in the ocean fisheries food for its creative genius. The whaling fleet is the marine force of the pioneer army. These two forces, by land and by sea, have both worked steadily onward to the North Pacific. " They now reunite in the harbors of California and Oregon, about to bring into existence upon the Pacific a commercial grandeur identical with that which has followed and gathered to them upon ihe Atlantic. THE NORTH AMERICAN MISSION. 113 " Hence have already come these new States : this other seaboard : and the renewed vivacity of progress with which the general heart now pal- pitates ! " Will this cease or slacken ? Has the pouring forth of the stream from Europe ever ceased since the day of Columbus? Has the grass obliterated the trails down the Alleghanies, or across the Mississippi ? RiitluT let him who doubts scat himself upon the bank of the supreme 3Ii.ss()uri River, and await the running dry of his yellow waters ! For sooner shall he see this, than a cessation in the crowd now flowing loose to the Western seaboard ! '■ Gold is dug — lumber is manufiictiired — p.istoral and arable agriculture irrow apace — a marine flashes into existence — commerce resounds — the fish- eries are prosecuted — vessels arc built — steam pants through all the waters. Each interest stimulating all the rest, and perpetually creating novelties, a career is commenced, to which, as it glances across the Pacific, tlu' human eye assigns no term !" . . . It is to the infallible judgment and the intrepid valor of the pioneers that the American people owe the selection of Colorado and the auspicious cosmopolitan site of Denver. The one crowns and embraces the supreme altitude of the continent, and majestically arches the Cordillera : the other rests in the focus of the continental scheme of activity and fresh forces. By the exalted energy and devotion of (he pioneer army, the imperiljed Union has been saved from ob.sf'urc spcculatiims and blind theories. We had beheld a period of repression ; during which our people had been driven by malignant legi.slation in a maritime shell around the conti- nent : its vast centre had been retained as a desert disc. The patriotism and energies of the people, pent up and exasperated by malignant politics, had become deformed and distorted by civil strife : our .soil incarnadined with fraternal blood. With the pioneer army rests the glory which has vindicated the mis- sion of America : which preserves, enlarges, and perpetuates the con- tinental union of the States; elsewhere rocked to its foundations, and enervated by nepotism to the foolish fashions of Europe. While European sentiment and its dismal political bigotry has every- where fomented civil war and slaughter ; invaded Mexico ; bombarded the West Indies and South America ; filled Canada with incendiaries, and the ocean with pirates : ancient, bountiful, wise, prolific, and luxuriant Asia, has cultivated and pressed upon us peace, friend.ship, sympathy, and the affiliation of her redundant populations and productions. Advancing to meet and embrace this fresh and splendid arena : march- ing with the double puipose to a.ssiniilate with the Asiatic system and 8 m. 114 77/ A' NO It Til AMKHICAX MI SSI OX. activities, aiid to cinani-ipato ii.<c'If fnim the iiniioverisliiii}: and sterile iiKiiKilKily of the Atlantic, iXxc pionar ttrni// selects Dkxvkii. lleve the frcdif^rapliy and draiiia<j;e of the Atlantic conies to an cud ; that of the I'acitic is reached. Infidlible instinct adheres to the tuotlifr- mat axiit. Here is the propitious point to receive the coluuin from Asia, de- houchin^ from the ocean and the mountains to radiate and expand itscli' tdsltcdn/ over the unobstructed area of the Mississippi basin ! We con- sent to face about! The rear becomes the front! Asia in front; J-Aii-iqie in the rear ! Dknvkr is ST') miles from Sacramento: 1401 from ^fcxieo City: 11(»() from St. Louis: and 2li(l(» fnmi New York. It is, therefore, by proximity identified with the Pacljic Oaan and with Mr.rki). It is the salient point to which Asia and Polynesia will coini', seckiii;; a central base; from which to distribute themsi'lves (jver the cosfmi area oi" America and to Kurope. Thir selection thus fir.-Jt made by the in.«ipirc(l and infallible judjiuient of the piiiiHrm <>/ t/ic wi'U/rriiiHs will forever re- main unanimously acceptable to the American iteoj)le. The iti.sfiiivf, the whole end)odied I'orce and pr<'. .»ur of intere.st, judg- ment, j)ower, and j)atriotism of the jieople of the Pacific, v.ill construct the ('ciitrii/ Railroad of North America, from San Francisco to Denver ! Why this onclusion dictates itself as eminently probable, is illustrated by innumeraide shininj;; and concurrent facts of nature and experiences of progress. Dk.nvkk is in a focal point of impregnable power in the topof^raphical configuration of the continent. It is a /wtil point for the great raiUnnt riveis. six in nundjcr, whose channels form a multitude of uid)r;>ken gratles descending to the Af/mifu: It is e(|ually so for tho.xe streams which, scalping the escarpments of the Cordillera, prolong these gradients and graft tluni. through and through, on the counterpart /<><'<i/ .system of the rivers of the Pacific. 'I'lie symmi'trical propincjuity and ////i°r-radiation of the plains of the Arkaii.sis and Platte liivers — enveloping and fusing into the jdain of the Kansas — carry the Great J'/ains, like an undidating (K'can, sheer up to the primeval (ord Hiiro. This is /urf Kiicin/iiirnissxl hi/ oiiffiiws. The (!itK.\T Pl,.\iNs forma desceiuling slope to the longitudinal trough of the Missi.s,sippi ]{iver, basking themselves in the ea.stern sun. liy their intense fertility and immense area, they are about to give to our people supremacy in the world. The CJhkat Plains extend from tlie Mexican tiulf to the Arctic Sea. , i THE SOUTH AMERICAS MISSIOS. 115 o tliu Arctic Sea. They iiro of a iinifi)rm drift formation, alluvial and diluvial ; tlicy have a width, from west to cast, of 1200 inilcH; a h)nj;itudinal longtli of I),')!)!). The destruction of the mountains forms their soils, in whieh every active element of fertility and jtroduction is minjrled. This hup- area owes its eoiistruction and its smoothness to the vast net-work of rivers whiih meamlerdown its slope; hut still more especially to the atmonj^thcrlc currents flowin}^ perpetually from the last. In this work Xitture employs the industry of multitudinous myriads of minute aniuials. The zo>>j)/iijtcs rrect conil infiiiKls from tlir afn/sK of the (icnin. Here the ants, the marmots, tlie badgers, the loxes, the wolves, everywhere erect their multitudinous nests from the powder and minute jiravel of the sul)s<iil. Dried hy the ?un and fanned by the urst iriinf, from each separate hillock rises, to thf heij^ht of thirty feet, a whirlpool of soil. This travels, from iirKt to >■>'„', a few liundred feet, hursts and sows itself broadcast. I'fn'u(/irii//>/ come sand-storms of force and violence, which, to a less dis- tance and similarly, transport the fine frravel and small boulders. Tins s>/sfi'))i of niitiir-il/onTx, acting through countless ages, has formed hy the afmospherlc currents this prodigious sloping glacis. As large in ex- panse as is the Atlantic Sea, th(i winds sweep over and mould its surface as (•' mplctely us they ruffle the water surface and drive tlie waves of the ocean. This poroim drift material absor})s promptly and hides the water coming from the cloutls. These watei-s permeate down and underflow upon the bed-rock foundation, which has the same })erpetual .slope and is jiarallel witli the top surface. Elevated for irrigation by artesian wells, n/hr use it again sinks to its home beneath, and is protected from evaporation. Of the fattest fertility ; drained beneath ; everywhere supplied with artesian waters, there is no interrujjtion to this i)i'opitious structure and uniform adajitability to arable culture. Every acre of this ocean prairie thus ofl'crs itself for the productiou of the cereals. In their inuUsturhed nature these plaii.s are jtastoral : they liave, within the knowledge of our people — within my own knowledge — sustained lUO,()0(t,000 of aboriginal grazing stock, feeding them,selves upon the perennial grasses, asjish In the sea. Animal life is as multitudinous, and as various in kinds, as is the coun- terpart marine population of the ocean ! Mineral fuel, and material for buihling and fencing, are abundant and universally distributed. The atniosjthere is uniformly moderate in tem])erature, favorable to health, to longevity, to intellectual and jdiysical develoj)ment, and stimulative of an exalted tone of .sott'../ civilization and refinement. m « , '. 'ft 116 THE SOUTH AMERICAS MISSIOS. Such is the fi^ndeur which di: plays itself around us to the north, to the 'mst. end co the south. Nature gioups her favors in endless var'etipo, jp the most auspicious forms, and in tlic palmiest dimensions. Towering above us on the west are the cloi:.d-compellin}» sunnnits of the Eastern Cordillera. We have seen that the systt^m of the North American Andes hero reaches its extreme departure from the oceans ; its most salient anglo of expansion ; culminating also in supreme bulk and altitude. Enveloped vritl.in then arc the Pares : adjacent to and beyond these, are the immense mountain basins of the Rio del Norte ; the Colorado ; Salt Lake ; and Columbia : al' upon the expanse of the Plateau. Ii. and around the Parcs is preparing itself the mining laboratory of the world. The rare economy in structure, climate, inter-occanic con- venience, prolific food, miscellaneous materials and metals, constitute and locate here the paragon of all geographical positions. 1 us to the north, avors in oiidloss ost dinicnsioiiH. llin<? summits of ni of the North u the oceans ; its ipremo bulk and id beyond these, i the Colorado; Plateau. ing laboratory of nter-oceanic con- nctals, constitute CHAPTER XIL THE NOPTII AMERICAN MISSION — CONTINUED. The discoverie,s of exact scicucn teach us conclusively what is desirable to be known. Everybody is familiar with the manufacture of shot. This is aecom- piished by pourinjj; liquid lead at a hijrh elevation throujrh perforated i?i()ulds. Each pellet of lead de.seending throiii^h the air is formed into a sphere, as it cools, by the invisible force of jrravity. The f,'lobc of the earth hius bad a similar orifjin ; once a liquid mas.s ; now a solid frravitatinj; sphere of' 8000 miles in diameter, such as we in- habit it. Geolo<ry exj)lains how the material mass of this {rreat sphere has arrangeil it.self into layers or .shells, enveloping one another like the successive coalings of an onion, or rather as the pulp of an orange with many succcHsive rinds. .S/H'(//?V y/Y/iv'/y accounts for the relative positions of these layers one upon the other : it explains to us where and how to penetrate to their nietalliferous contents. It is in the primeval roek^ exchmtrJy that the jrccious metals and gems are found. The bas^e metals are found in the ai/cinroiiH rocks. Sprcifir (jrdflty guides us to discover the rocks in which the metals are found and when they arc totidly absent. If into n hollow ]»illar of gla.ss there lie [loured a cfuart of quicksilver, one of water, one of oil, and one of alcolcl, these liquids will rest one upon the other in this order. It a j)iece of gold, of iron, of wood, and a feather, be thrown in. they will sink — the gold to the bottom, the iron to the (juicksilver, the wood to the water, the feather to the oil. [f this whole ma.ss be congealed to ice. this arrangement will remain solid and permanent. The gold must be sought f, millinentiiry to the <|uicksilver ; the iron above it, but smli- infiitiin/ to the water ; the wood resting upiin the water, but sedimentary to the oil. In the stnpendotis proportions and exact order of nature, a similar arrangi'ment holds in the rocks which envelop the globe of the earth in a jrust, as the contents of im egg are held within its shell. This crust or shell IS known to be 125 miles in thickness. 117 ^H I'll'! 118 THE sou" 11 AMEinCAN MISS 10 S. Ill Vi -il These roflkH, onco nil 8oft or li((ui(l. are imw all iieriiian'.;nfly KoUd, in the order of their relative speeifie j^ravitieM. 15ut, as the liottoiii eonteiits of a meadow-field are rijiped up hy the (Irivinj^ force of* a siihsoil jilow, so the eoinpreitsed fires and chaotic forces of the interior glohe, tearinjj throujih its crust, have thrown tiji the ti'ltiiiir hiiiylliitUiiiil fiiriiiw which is now the eluvuted CoBDlLLKKA from Cajte Horn to Behrinj^'s Htrait. The lowest ro-ks, therefore, split asunder and driven up vertirnlly, now form the summit of the ('iinli//n<i. The reiided facinjrs of tiu' bottom jilates hecouu; tht; surmountiufi top of the Sierra. The warjied sides, lient ujiwards, form the sloi)iiij; flanks of the Sierra. I'iled against these, the superincumbent strata are lapped. These appear as successive benches upon the flanks of the Cordi/lertt, forming a rugged staircase, whose steps are each of coiifiiu iif<t/ magnitude and dimensions. Such is tlie aboriginal j)rofile of the pnwcval Chr- tiilUro, now rasped away and ragged by corrosion and the play of the elements during countless millions of seasons. IJut science, with efpial truth and simplicity, ascending upwards from the earth's surface, explains the ATMosi'liERE!, which embrace the globe outsiilc, and handles them without obscurity. The globe is covered externallji with a liquid shell of water, through which the contents protrude : this is the ocean, ntjveoiis atniospherc, being dense and visible to the eye. FcteninJ to this, and resting upon it, is the sliell of the mrrinl afntos- pJinc. This atnu)sphorc is invisible to the eye ; but the vapors exhaled from the land and the ocean ascend into it ; are condensed into mists and rain-?louds, which float through it in visible mas.ses. At an altitude of 4(100 feet, this dcrlal uhiioupJirre terminates as abrujttly and completely as has the atpiemm ntmosphcn' at our feet. Above its limit, or upper surface, the n«/H-clouds do noc ascend, but have their termination and level similarly to the aqueous afmosphrre beneath. /•J.rfrriKiI to ihc ncn'dl (If DiospJiere is the ETHKHKAh afniospliere, beyond wliieh animal life, vegetation, and clouds cease to exi.st. Physical geography defines those portions of the earth's surface within the (ifirliij atmosphere to po.ssess a MARITIME climate; those within the cfhirixif atmoi^phrre to possess a CONTINENTAL climate. The Plateaux of North America, of Central Asia, and of South America enjoy a contt- nental climate ; the rest of the earth's surface lies within the maritime climate. How perfectly the area of Colorado possesses a continmtal climate and lies within the ithrcal atmosi)hcre, manifests itself to every observ- THE SOUTH AM Kit WAS MfSStOS. 119 niiin-ntly mViH, in rippod up l)y the fires iiml chaotic ve Ihiown up the (tKIilLLKHA from ■II 'ij> vcrliciilly, I faciii^r.s (if th^' ■ra. Tile wariied •a. I'ilod lieu a''aiiist f tho (WdUlcra, noital uiaguitudu e jirinicviil Cor- thi! phiy of the iifr upwards from luliraco tlio globe f water, tliroufrh tmosjiherc, being he amnl atmoa- e vapors exJialed d into mists and ? terminates as '•«■ at our foot, iseend, but liave phrre beneath. oitjihere, beyond i surface witliin hose witliin the 'he Pl^ATKAUX II enjoy a contt- 1 the maritime intntdl climate • every observ- iiij,' eyp. Tiie illustrations and proofs of this are i-oiuiuMve in t'V«'ry dcimrtuient and niinuti; detail of nature — uiwin the surface nf thi- I'lains; in the eauo|iy ov(;rhead ; in the mountains; in animal life; and in the ve^rctatinn. To the traveller who ascends from <<i.*i to wvjt/, at the |>;us>»a'.rt' of the 1(12(1 nieridiaii, tlut metamorphosis over the whole landM-:i|M- is ciiniplele. Tlie surface of tlit; earth is uniforndy dry, compact, ami fm- fn.in mud; the forest has dis:ip])eared even from the rivers ; where irri-.riti<>n. "tlier than that supplicMl from the clouds, is absent, wormwtMMl. the eacta". and dclicale perennial gras.ses only grow ; the air is intensely pungent, tonic to the tast«!, dry, and translucent ; the atmos])herie pn-s-Mire dimini>lies, and animal digesti(jn is modified. Across the canoj)y, which is inten.><ely bine in color and brilliancy, nish itly, like Ixtrsed >f th <ili riouils. bi >he<l with couriers and radiating silver tire. This gorgeous /;(/yr'y/-/f display of eloiid* i- multi- tudinous and inces.sant round the year: they contain neitluT rain nor electricity ; and descend over us with my.sterious and incidculabic v«l<K*ity in the iicriiil <itm<isplii'rr. TIk; ottion^phtric riirrriifs pour incessantly from tlie irttf — the moun- tains gather but little snow — they are naked and dr}' at mid.'-umnier. The rivers are without affluents, an<l e.\j>end their waters by eva]Mtnition. The incessant pjissago of clouds does not obscure the sun, but ri'fracts and intensifies his insj»iring light. There are neither moisture, mia.smas, nor perceptible exhalations of any kind. DiiM is not frequent. Serenity, moderation, and purity reiim within th(! complete circuit of the horizon. The mind of man is .SMithetl. tem- pered, and modified by this immense benignity throughout nature, whii-h infuses itself, and a.ssimilatos everything but human avarice and nij'.ifity. The su[H!rb richness of color and of dis.^olving ."hadi-s are infinitely variegated and delicate. The visimi, aided by the continually inerea-xiiig elevation, is far peiu'trating and distinct in its recognitions. Within and among the mountains and upon the Platf \v. the niinh-ss character. serenity, and splendor of the atmosphere are the sjime. All tht-se g«'n«T- ous attributes gather in force, and are enhan<ed l)y the .^uiHTlativc U-siuty and sublimity of their marvellous stnicture. magnitude, and iiunibe- 'Y\n'. preci.st' flirts which fix the supreme climatic excellent «»f Cotonido are these : the latitudt! — the elevation above the sea — the remote seclu- sion from the sea. These all attain here their ninximiim^ and unite har- moniou.sly. This results from the astimishing and au.spiciuun c«inconl between the grand laws of nature ; the comprehensive scale of the anhi- tecture ; and the favorable /oml configuration. 120 riiK s-(ntrii amkuic.w mission. I Tlic Nmlh Aiiiiiivini A iii/m c\ cry vihcrv. prove tliciiixclvcs to liavc liccu driven ii]i tliroii;;Ii the lied of it iiriiiu'val occiiii, of wliicli tint Mis.iis.sij,j,i htisiii is llic still uiialti'riil liowl. Tlif Hodiiiicntiiry strata, liki' u nest of Itowl.s iiiiiiij.' tlu' ahyss, are Imikoii off and tilted uj) along tlie indented baHu of the iiioiintains. A traveller wlio apjiroaelies t]w Aflmific sntf/minl, eouunj; from tlic iiiiif, sees that ocean penetratinj; every hay, gulf, luirhor, and indentation of the land, jireservinj^ an unalterahie li'vel. In the same way, wrajtiied against the Cordillera, and meantlering its infinitely indented roots with tiie same undeviating fidelity, are Keen the rended edges of the cii/ainiiiis Htrata. Kaeh stratnm iiaving its characteristic color, thin friinje of n (lipitrUd ixiini is traceil without intermission lengthwise through the continent. It is easily discernihle, as though a continuous rainbow were ]ilaited in to mark the line of junction, where the sc'dimentary and primeval rocks join together and depart in opposite directions, each to maintain exclusive dominion. Thus, ascending along the arc of the 4(lth degree of latitude, a dis- tance of twenty miles from the I'/<iiiix, directly uj» to the summit of the Cord if /nil, I'very elementary rock of the geological scale is crossed, arranged in order and jilaced in jxisition. At the lower end appears liiliiniil </ii/f, the top settlings of the sea ; at the other end t]\c priinvvul 2>"r/>/ii/ii/, upheaved from the lowest crust. JIi II , in economical juxtajiositio and luxuriant profligacy, are found every metal, every rock, every clay, every salt, every alkali, I'uel, arbores- ceiiee, vegetation of gra.s.ses and flora — every and each element of the g(Milogical .scale to which human industry ajjplies its .skill, or manufactures and conv(!rts to social use. I am awed by the.se marvellous facts <d" nature, which cannot esciipe recognition. I liave not discovered that they exist, or cjin so exist, else- where round tlu! earth's circumlerenci!, iu ..nysuch complete coudjination, of such jiurity and magnitude, asliere — iiifrniiidi'nfr — upctn the condensed track of way-travel of the populous and active zodiac of mai'cind. A st4irtling and profound novelty here displays it.self and fixes our attention. All along the liinijltiiilliinl J'kifriin, altitude and the protection of tlie Cordilleras temjter the hrnl towards the e(|uatorial zone ; the .same causes temper the ciJil towards the polar zone. These extremes of teu)j)erature for the day and for the night are great; for the seasons round the year scarc(!ly jierceptible. In one word, the temperature is uiuforndy nriinl. By this, the genial and propitious climate of the imtheimal zik/iuc is THK SOUTH AMKUIt'AS MISS/OX. 121 proloii^'cil outward upon its north flank, and itn soutli flank : it oxtomU up and down the arou of the fiuhnii, and is f'olt to hoth its extremities. Tlius is iHustrated the severe tniifnisf ani(iii<; the eontiiients, North Anitiica heinj; in its eontij^uration iniicnrf — all the otlu-rs coiiiix. Klse- where, hostile strueture, perpetuating ineorrigihlu distraetion, segregates soiiety and dwarfs its energies. In Xuit/i Aniiricii. a. homogeneous unity of language, population, and manners is unavoidable. This is henignantly amplified hy an undulating variety of contour, pervading eijually tlu! mountain sy.stem and the jilain.s. This hap]iy eomhination provokes tlu; highest development and diseiplinu of energy, and tlie most e.xalted civilization. As for the nite upon which the CiTV <•!•' Dk.nver is founded, it is pre- eminently coHmo/xjlitan. It pre-oecupies the auspicious focus into whidi Nature groups all her colossul elements. We are at the ha.se of the Kiii>t- irii Cori/i/lira, who.se summit, nowhere jjenetrated hy navigation for ten thousand miles, forms the phi^mcal mvriilian which parts and unites the two hemispheres of the ghthe. Here the vast arena of the Pacific basin fits it.self to the basin of the Atlantic, edge to edge. The goal is reached where the zodiac of nations closes its circle. The gap between the hemispheres is bridged over forever. We are upon the isot/niiiKil iixis, which is the trunk line (the t/id/iifif) of intense and intelligent energy ; where eiviliziition has its largest field, its highest development, its inspired form. There is an intoxicating grandeur in the panorama which unveils it.self to the .sjjectator looking out from the crest of the neighboring Cordillera. In front, in rear, and on either flank. Nature ascends to her highest standard of excellence. Behold to the right the Mississippi Hasin : to the lefV the Plateau of the Table Lands : beneath, the family of I'arcs : around, the radiating backs of the primeval mountains: the primary rivers starting to the seas: a uniform altitude of 8()()() feet : a translucent atniosjihere, a thousand miles ' cuioved from the ocean and its influences : a checkered landscape, from wliich no element of .sublimity is left out — fertility and food upon the surface ; metals beneath ; uninterrupted facility of transit. Behold here the pdnomiiKt which crowns the middle region of our Union ; fans the immortal tire of patriotism ; and beckons on the ener- getic host of our people ! Here, through the heart of our territory, our population, our States, our citit's, our niini!S, our farms and haltitations, will travei-se the con- densed commerce of mankind — where ])a.ssengers and cargoes may,'*? any lime or j>litei; embark upon or leave the vehicles of transjKjrtation. ■* ■! 122 THE XOIlTIf AMKIifCAX }rfSSrOX. ii ;'ii Down with the parricidal policy which will banish it from the land — from amoiif^ the broadcast dwclliiiirs of the pcojilo — t<i f jrco it on tci the sterile ocean : outside of society, throu;ih foreifjjn nations — into the torrid heats : alonfj; Holitary, circuitous routes : imprisoned for montlis and dwarli-d in great ships ! Railways, miltiplied and spanning the continent, are essential dnnicstic institution.:; !:.ore powerful and more permanent than law, or popular (un- sent, or political constitutions, to thoroughly complete the grand system of fluvial arteries wliich fraternize us into one people — to bind tlie firo SKil/oanh to this one continental vni'on, like ears to the human head — to radicate the 7-nral foundations of the Union so broad and deej), and establish its structures so solid, that no possible force or stratagem can sliake its permanence — to secure such scope and space to j)rogress, that equality and prosperity shall never be impaired, or chafe for want of room! To Denver is secured a career into which all these favorable^ facts of position and circumferent area are now united. The North American people numl)cr Ji/ti/ 7Htllion.t in strength. Two millions annually shift their houics. This force is, j^'ir cxci Hence, the pioneer army of tlui North American ])eople. This movement causes an uninteirupted jire.ssure of the people from aist to west, resembling the drift of the ocean which aecompani. s the great tidal wave. Diurnally is the surface of the sea lifted up in silence and poured upon the coasts of the continents. Exactly similar to this is the movement, annually gathering force, and seen to impel our people through and through from the easternio the uestern limit of the land. The inscrutable force of (/raiifi/, which with minute accuracy holds the planets in their orbits, or Ci. ises each drop of rain to fall, sways the instinet of society. This gravitation pres.ses from all directions upon the axis, and to the focus of intensity. This regular in.stiiict of movement lias been transiently interfered with by the artificial passions and demorali- zation of civil strife. It rapidly assumes again its tempe'- and its regularity. Our neighbors from California work up to us with miraculous energy and celerity. They bring with tlu-m the ojien aven)ie to us from Asia. The Mexican colunni reaches us from the south. On the )(irtli the activity is great, and in clo.se contact. The.se several columns s multane- ously converge upon us. They increase evert/ moment in numbers, weight, and celerity of motion. We no longer march into the blind wilderness, di'penih'iit upon and chained exehisinli/ to Europe in the rear. We open up in IV'int (ho gorgeous arena of the Asiatic Ocean THE yOUTIl AMKIllCAX MISSIOX. 123 At ]>rt'si!iit, tlu! liuge city of Ldinlon iiunKtpolize.s the imports from the Oriinfiit world. These arc stored tliere, and retiiihid to the people ro- siiliiiL:' in tlie basin of the Atlantic. Upon the labor of the American people, so far us thoy particij)atc in the consumption of Orinifal witrra, is harnessed the frightfnl burden to si'i'port the British peojile and the Britisli Empire, a id to be devoured by their voraeiims despotism of trade. The work of emancipation is accomplished by tlie intrepid enerj^ies and (uniiuests of the pioneer army of North America. It only remains to be appreciated and accepted by the people. We are about to supply by direct export the food and precious and ba.se metals to 8')0,()(K),000 of neighboring Asiatics ! To Japan : to (Jiiina : to India. To the gorgeous islands of Borneo : Sumatra : Java. To tlie Philippines: the Celebes. To the Archipelagoes of the Sooloo Sea and Polynesia ! Tiiese are hirffer in aggregate area, and more populous, than Euro|K' ; and arc nearer to tis. Included witiiiri the eijiuitorial zone, but approached by us through the kmp< i-iili zone, they ovei*flow witli mercliandises desirable to our people, in multitudinous affluence. To us will belong the prodigious carrying trade upon tlie seas for tlie.sc inlinite multitudes. The e((uatorial heats arc outflanked and avoided. The conflict for dominion over the mul- tiplied commerce of the world is fought, and the conclusive victory is won tiir our country. A large majority of tlie American [leople now reside within the Mi.s- si.s.si|ipi Biusin, and in this Asiatic front of our continent, which is born from us. Na.scent powers, liereulcan from the hour of their birth, unv(!il their forms and demand their rights. States for the pioneers ; self-govern- ment for the picmeers ; untrammelled way for tlie imperial energies of the forces of the Rocky .Alountuins and the Pacific Sea, may not long be withheld by covetous, arbitrary, and arrogant jcalou.sy and injustice! In the conflict for freedom, it is not numbers or cunning that conquers ; but rather daring, di.>4tijiline, and judgment, combined and tempered by the conden.sed fire of faith an<l intrepid valor. As it is my hope, iti the.se notes, to contribute what may be valuable, I adhere strictly to severe facts, and nject ab.solutely all theory and .speculation. These facts are as indestructibly established as is the alpha- bet, and arc as worthy of unijuestioning faith and credence. That we may htok into the giitbering achievements of the near future, without obscurity, and with an accurate prophetic vision, 1 may without censure submit what is within my own personal experience. m \ M. 124 THE NORTH AMEItlCAN MISSION. i ■ w It fell to my lot, during the years from 1840 to 1845, alone and lu extreme youth, to seek and chalk out, in the immense solitudes filling the space from 3Iissouri to China, the lines of this dazzling enijiire of which we now hold the oracular crown — to have stood by its cradle — to be the witness of its miraculous growth. It is not for me, in this season of gathering splendor, to speak tnmcju upon a subject of such intense and engrossing novelty and interest. I may properly here quote the concluding sentences of a report which I was re- quired to make on the 2d of March, 1840, to the Untied Stntex Srnatr, at that time brimful of illustrious .statesmen. What I said then and there, in the first dawning twilight of our glory, I will now repeat : " The calm, wise man sets liimself to study aright and understand clearly the deep designs of Providence — to scan the great volume of nature — to fathom, if possible, the will of the Creator, and to receive with respect what may be revealed to him. " Two centuries have rolled over our race upon this continent. From nothing we have become 20,000,000. From nothing we are grown to be in agriculture, in commerce, in civilization, and in natural strength. the first among nations existing or in hLsfory. So much is our ihntiny — so far, up to this time — tninsuctcd, accomplished, certain, and not to be disputed. From this threshold we read the future. " The vntransactcd destiny of the American people is to subdue the continent — to rush over this vast field to the Pacific Ocean — to iiiiiniate the many hundred millions of its people, and to cheer them upward — to set the principle of self-government at work — to agitate these herculeaa ma.s.ses — to establish a new order in human affairs — to set free the en- slaved — to regenerate superannuated nation.s — to change darkness into light — to stir up the sleep of a hundred centuries — to teach old nations a new civilization — to confirm tlio destiny of the human race — to carry the career of mankind to its culminating point^ — to cause stagnant peojile to be re-born — ■. perfect science — to emblazon history with the con(|uest of peace — to shed a new and resplendent glory upon mankind — to unite the world in one social family — to dissolve the spell of tyranny and exalt charity — to absolve the curse that weighs down humanity, and to shed blessings round the world ! " Divine tmk ! immortal mixftion ! Let us trcjid fast and joyfully the open trail before us ! Let every American heart open wide for patriotism to glow undinnned, and confide with religious faith in the sublime and prodigious destiny of his well-loved country." REMARKS OF MAJ( 1845, alone and iu ise solitudes filling dazzling enijijre of »J by its cradle— to or, to speak tnmcJy lid interest. I may •t which I was re- ^ifrd Sfittrf, Sniolr, t I said then and now repeat : understand clearly uine of nature— to :ceive with respect continent. From ; we are grown to natural strength. •h is our detitlny—. aiu, and not to be is to subdue the )cean — to aiiiniute them ujiward— to e these herculean » set five the en- ige darkness into teach old nations 111 race — U) carry * stagnant iie()j)le vith the con(|ucst ankind — to unite yranny and exalt lity, and to shed and joyfully the de for patriotism the sublime and APPENDIX. MEXICAN WAR. REMARKS OF MAJOR OltPIN, AT THE BARBECUE GIVEN' THE COLE INFANTRY, AT JEFFERSON CITY, THURSDAY, AUGUST 10, 1847. Happy are those who, after hopes long su.spended and hara.ssing anxieties long and doubtingly endured, come to find their hopes con.sum- mated by brilliant successes, their anxieties relieved by enthusiastic praises and the shouts of triumph. Such are the soldiers who, their trials ended and their long and ex- hausting services at an end, are here assembled to receive the greetings of the!- kindred, and listen to their flattering praises and their shouts of victory and welcome. During thirty-two years of peace, — a long period, which includes the birth of nine-tenths of us, — our own State has joined the confederacy. War came suddenly. With the same pen which signed the declaration of hostilities between Mexico and the United States, the President di- rected to Missouri the first requisition for the War! It asked a slender force of 1 500 men, — all volunteers but 300 dragoons — to cross the Great Plains and penetrate Mexico by the north. Bounding forth at the sound of the war-bugle, in one month were as- sembled at Fort Leavenworth, beyond the western verge of our Union, the Ist Regiment of Missouri Cavalry, the battalion of Artillery fro > St. Louis, the battalion of Cole Infantry, and the Laclede Rangers, 120o in all, and forth they marched. Wars had occupied mankind for one hundred centuries, but they had been wars between adjacent nations — marches had been confined to inhab- ited countries, where provisions abounded on the routes. Here was a wilderness of u thousand miles to be traversed, and the enemy to be encountered at home, in great strength, and abounding in resources. A failure to transport with us complete supplies was certain disaster and Starvation — a check received from the enemy at their threshold would 125 126 APPEXDIX. I i eventuate the same. This enemy was the pfople of Mexico, a sister Re- public. Years had hecii i-Ahausted in ingenious devices on our part to avoid this conflict. Our citizens had been nia.ssacred in Texas amidst the very orgies of barbarism — our merchants had been plundered and imprisoned — our flag insulted in their metropolis — our citizens murdered, malt rcated, and scofftul for their religion — debts accumulating during thirty yeara unpaid — treaties contemptuously violated — more than all, an attemiit to imitate fnir republican system, productive only of anarchy, stood as a bur- lesque beside us on our own continent, furnishing to the malev(jlent food for satires upon popular freedom in the Xew World. Forth, then, into the wilderness plunged the little army of Mi.<souri to encounter these enemies of their country — their country to them a/trat^s right. The plains were passed, and the rugged mountains which, dividing from the Rocky Mountains, encircle Now Mexico, were reached. Tlioir rapid progress had outstrijiped the provision-trains. Amidst fatiguinji; marches, dust, solstitial heats, and scanty water, subsisting on onc-ipiarter of the ordinary ration, they rushed onward to Santa Fe. The army of New Mexico, in numbers three to one of our force, occu- pying the impregnable gorge of Gallisteo, which covers the j-pproach to Santa Fe, dispersed in dismay. On the 18th of August, three months from the proclamation of war, made at Wasliington City, 2!500 miles dis- tant, the statt! of New Mexico lay concjuered, and the American flag floated over the Capitol at Santa Fe. Occupied until the middle of September in securing the subjugation if the country, the 1st Regiment descended the Del Norte to the lower set- tlements, receiving the submission of the towns and people, and returned to Santa Fe. New Mexico contains 100,000 inhabitants, vast resources, and by its basin-like configuration is easily defensible, and difficult to be confjuered cr long held in subjection. New Mexico is surroimded by powerful tribes of military Indians : the Con.anelies, towards Texas — the Yiitas and Navajos in the Rocky Moun- tains, and on their slope towards the Pacific. Issuii.g fnmi the surrounding mountains, the.se warlike Indians strike down the people, devastate the banks of the Del Norte, and driv(> \\w{\\ the stock. In years past they hav(; plundered from ^lexicans many mil- lions of sheep and cattle. By the submission of New Mexico wo had become the guardians of her people and territory. The pious duty re- mained to tame her savage foes. The infantry, J fort was built to made by the Coi parted for the one jienetrating t the Vutas and letta ; a third dei bound eventually The northern tated villages, to tion, and, reachii the river Chamas tjo Yutas, includ With them w; tliose Indians, their farms and f Supplies havii prepared to pa.ss up the Navajos, On the 2d of by tlie snows wJ force, 300 stronjj that led up to tl which flows to t^ With us were visions. In se\ altitude of 10,')( of the " Grmt } meiLsles scourgei prey to its rava< I'oUowing foi with the sheep the impractical men), we descei siou tif whicth a Astounded i trusted it couW horees whl'h h mission. Taking with ened toward tli M MEXICAN WAR. 127 loxleo, a sister Re- our part tf) avoid as amidst tlio vorv L'd and iiii]iris()iied rdered, iiialtivated, uriiig thirty yem-s iill, ail attoiii].t to ly, st(Mid as a bur- le nialovolont food ■my of Missouri to ry to tlioiii uhniys s which, dividing n e readied. Their \niidst f-itiiiiiinj,' ng on one-(jiiarter four force, occu- s tlie i'.pjiniacli to list, three months y, 2:}00 miles dis- le American flasr lie subjugation ,)f to the iowor set- pie, and returned urces, and by its to be conrjuered iry Indians : the lie Rocky .Aloun- e Indians strike and drive (i.ith cicans many mil- Mexico we had e pious duty re- Tho infantry, artillery, and dragoons remained to garrison Santa Fe — a fort was built to command its approaches — a treaty was asked for and made by the Conianches. The 1st llegimont, in three detaclnnciits, de- parted for the recesses of the llocky ^lountains late in September : the one j)enetratiiig towards the northwest by Canada and the Chamas against tlie Yutas and Navajos ; another southwest by Albuquerque and Sabo- lutta ; a tliird descended by the Del Norte, covering the American traders bound eventually to Chihuahua. The northern column passed out through a denuded country and devas- tated villages, to which the fugitive Mexicans returned under its protec- tion, and, reaching the recesses of the Rocky ^lountains by the sources of the river Chamas, in one month delivered to the authorities in Santa Fe Go Yutas, including their chiefs and chief warriors. With them was formed a treaty of peace, since faithfully observed by those Indians. This restored many thou.sand families of 3Iexicans to their farms and firesides, and gave (piiet to the northern frontier. Supplies liaving been with great difficulty collected, this same coluuui prepared to pass the eternal barrier of the Rocky Mountains, and .scare up the Navajos, reposing in security on their western slope. On the 2d of November (in this climate the depth of winter, indicated by tlie snows which enwrapped the surrounding mountains), this little force, !J00 strong, abandoning their tents and wagons, entered the gorges that led up to the " Pass of tlie San Juan,' the head of this great river which flows to the Pacific. With us were 7U Mexican allies and 100 pack-mules transporting pro- visions. In seven days, contending again.st snow-storm* and ice at an altitude of 10,'JOO feet in mid-winter, and unpalatable water, the i)assagc of the "Gridt Mothi r Mountain" of the continent was accomplislied. The mea.sles .scourged our camp. The brave boys, I'oster and Rryant, fell a prey to its ravages. Following for some days the great San Juan, leaving its banks swarming with the sheep and horses of the Navajos, and crossing towards tlie south the inipractii able mountain of Tunicha (never before trodden by white men ), we de^icended into the cavernous region of Challa, amidst the seclu- sion of which arc the forts and fastnesses of the Navajos. Astounded at the appearance of an American force where they had trusted it could never penetrate, the chiefs tendered presents, restored the horses whl'-h had been stolen from New Mevico, and promised abject sub- mission. Taking with us nine chiefs commissioned to l)ind the nation, we hast- ened toward the snowy jicaks which rose 200 miles to the east and barred r, 128 A rPEXDlX. our return to Now Moxico. At the umtern ba3e of those, in the t-rritory of the Zufii Tiidiaiis, wo awaited the arrival of tlie colonel coniniainiiii" to whom the Xavajos' chiefs swore eternal friendship to the white jum. Marching hence uiuhr the western edge of t\u) mountain crest, we visited and smoked the jiipe in the city of the Zuni Indians. This people, many of them albinos, one of the lost specks of the aiitii|iie Aztec race, inhabit a solitary city in the centre of the immen.se plain traversed by a northern branch of the Gila River. Hence, reerossing the " Ciretit Mother Mountain" by the Zuni I'ass im the four first days of December, we descended to the Del Norte. Jnyousiy did we meet again our fellow-.soldiers, and soon the i.st Regiment found it.self reunited at Valverde. 250 miles below Santa Fe, about to pass onward to the conquest of El Paso and Chihuahua. Thus, since our departure from Santa Fe. luid our little force under my command reduced to peace the Yuta and Navajo nations, 40,(10(1 strong, aecompli.shod a march of 750 miles, cro.ssed and recroseed the Sierra Madre. pas.sed the Tunicha and Chiu.ska Mountains, and many rivers. During many successive nights the cold descended to the freczing-jmint of mercury : the streams were frozen solid : the pasture scanty : and of fuel there was but a stingy handful of evergreen woods: — two bravo men and many horses iiad perished : for the rest, their health was good, and their spirits always gay and undaunted. This is the first military force of our nation which, cromug the Rocky Mountains and unfurling the national standard upon the uuiti r.^ <>/ the Pacijic, has received for it the submission of u hostile people ; and this was accomplished in the depth of winter. A portion of our little army (the artillery and infantry) remained to occupy New Mexico ; another, accompanying (leneral Keanioy, had gone to secure the concjuest of California. The Indians having boon siVduod, the Ist Regiment was now concentrated at \'alverde, on the lower edge of New Mexico, meditating the conquest of the rich and populous state of Chihuahua. This was the 12th of December. Our regiment mustered 700 men. The weather was intensely cold, the river ran with ice — we had no touts — and our animals starved upon the harsh, dry gra.ss. In El Paso, 200 miles below, are comfort and plenty — wine and corn, and houses, and a delicious climate; but there, too, are a regular force of 1500 Mexicans and five pieces of artillery. Between the armies is the "Jornada, or "Journey of the Dead," a dreary stretch of 100 miles, without wood or water. At the entrance of the "Jornada," awaiting our advance, were tiio MKXICAX W.ifl. 120 Ami'ii<"ni nu ■itIhiiiIs. liaviiiu' lUtO wa-'ons. diariri'tl with 81.000.000 worth tie force muhr my >ns, 40.00(1 strmi"' ?ro.>«c(l tlio Sierra <1 many rivers, the fretzins-jKiiiit re scanty : and of : — two brave men ilth was good, and •roxslnrf tile Kneky the utit(/s iif ike people ; and this itry) remained to [car'iey, had gone ing been si Slued, )n the lower edge nd populous st^ite ustercd 7(tO men. -we had no tent.s In El Paso, 1>(I0 tid houses, and a r 1.J0O 3Ie.\i(an« e '"Jornada," or without wood ipr Jvance, were the of uieicliiiiidisf. One hundred men under Captain Hudson suliscijuently canio to us from Santa Fe. called tiie • Chiliuaiiua Kangers" — tlu-y were drawn from the lid llegiment (Colonel I'riee'.sl. An exjiress was sent baek to Santa Fe for one company of artillery, eommamled by Captain Waitinan. Tliis company overtook us afterward.-' in Kl I'aso — abcmt the 1st of I'ebruary. On tiic llith, a forlorn hope of HOO pa.ssed onward to open the pa.>*sage through the "Jornada" — witii this were Captains Parsons, Waldo, Keid, and Hodgers. We expected to meet the enemy as we should pass onward from its jaws. The pa.s.sage was accomplished — no enemy obstructed our exit at the farther end — we descended to the river and ijuenehcil our thirst, con- tinued during three days and nights. IJobledo is the nanu' given to the lower mouth of the Jornada. Twelve miles below is the little town of Dona-Ana — it has j)lenty of corn and ti<lO people. This is the only settlement abovi! Kl i'aso. which is SO miles distant. On the morrow we entered Pona-Ana. and there learned Miat the Mexican army would advaiue to ineet us as we should descend to Kl I'aso. On the lilJd, our whole force, having successfully pas.sed the Jornada, reunited at Dona-Ana. On the 21th. our march was 18 miles. On the 2.')th. advancing rapidly ahead of the wagon train, we encamped at Hrazito, 1!> miles, al)out one o clock. The camp-guanl, (!0 strong, the wagon-guards, and many men with jaded horses, were in the rear. 77/ /s inm ChriMnids il<i>/. At two o'clock. th(! approa<-hing cloud (d' dust revealed the advance of the Mexicans. The bugles sounding to arm.s. our fore(> was deployed in a single line on foot upon the prairie in I'ront, and envclo}iing the wagons: — we numbered 424. T!ie Mexican.s deployed immediately in our front, in gallant style, and rapidly :— they numbered IJ.'id. The veteran \'era Crn/ iMagoons were on the right — the Ciiihuahua Cavalry on the left — in the centre, infantry. Now it was that a black flag was flapjied in our eyes from the centre of the .Mexican line. It was defied — the sbo>k of battle followed. The Mexicans charged upon our line — 'heir cavalry converging to our front, their infantry advancing. Our men, sitting down and receiving many volleys from their artillery, nuisletry, and escopettes. decoyed them clo.se — when suddenly rising and pouririg in a lurid sheet of lire, the enemy, riddleu . 'erywhere. fleil liowlinL'. Their artiliv'v was taken. (i;{ were killed, and a vast rpiantity ol' arms taken from them. Those who escaped deserted from the Mexican army. 'J r.o M'I'KSl'IX. dicm h M ii- Clui.-tiiuix (lav, llic '.ttli aimivi'i-sar}' i»f Okciluilicc issiiiiri viiiiiiitcci's i-oiitii'iii h|miii liim \\iv ymil llr uttcrcil aj:,i lill.i ■ v i-xiiiiiiaiiilcr on lliat tiiiiin'i' dav. a til ta: U'lu'il iiur iiiaiclu On ll u' iiiiiniiii<^ II ft lie -<lh, \Vi •iili'icd Kl I'iiMi. Awailin'' \\w ani\al nf aililliiv. wi' liiipiid >i.\ \vi'ik> in ll (liliiioii.s M'ttlinicnt." nl" El I' Aliinil 2(l.tMM( .Mcxiianw lui It,' f itlltl\;(lf the jiiaiif. aiii! rnjuy innrii |piii>|u rit v ainl a driniuiis ilunatc. On till' '.Mhiif Fi'luiiarv, we innvi'il i>n fi> Cliiliualiiia. Tin- intcival, Jxi uiilt'>, it' M'cn iiy vmi whu inlialiil this nur vmlant laml, wnulil lie |ini- iiuun(-i.'(l a liii\vlin<: (k'sert, >\\A\ is its aiistcn; aiul jiirliiililinii aiiilitv — Saliai'a ilni's nut cxci'i'i 1 it- illlS III' i.» niiU's, williunt waliT, wiMic. or ^rass — j:iavt'l. sanil. ami iink> jmpsm'.'^;. it uuTcl^ — hi'nuiiiliing lolii at nijilit, at iniil-ilay hut and ilitstv. Uii the liTtli, wi; ivai-hotl Siiiix. 4(1 niilra iVnni Chihtiahiia miiUvav ht't wi'i'u r*iins and Chihuahua is Saciaimntu : lure is the unlv watir in that whiilc liistaurr. am 1 lii't wt'i'n lis d il ic iiji|Mirtanit} to .»lakr our lak. thirst, was cntrt'iii' hed •M I'xuan anuY. On the atUrnooii of the iJSih, was j^aimil //(» iinnnlluiin rutm-i/ nj Sucninii iitii, in w'lich your soldiers cuViTcd llu'insi'l\i'> with iniju'rislr.ililc filory. < hi the toUowiny and siieeeediny da} s our whole coluinu enteivd I'liihuahua. At Cliiliualiiui we heard with exultation uf the pillunt eondiiet of (1u: CoK' Ini'aiitiy and I''islier s Aitillery. at Canada and 'i'aos — ol' llnir f:in>il discijilin.! a'.id jiivUant hearing whilst in •garrison at Santa l''e. I'licse wirt' soldiei's' o\' thr jiist itqiiisiti'iii. »\ul tried with us tin- ojH'iiinji i'ainjiaij;ii ot" the |irairie.s. Jiet u.s lu>re. then, as at Chihuahua, emwu with the sniiii! (■ha|ilet the sohliers ol' IJrazilo. Sairanieiito, Canada, Taos, iiml 101 I'asu — sharin<:; alike the lioimrs won iiy all. |)urin,ir two nionth.'^ did the Missouri eoluinn Imlil undistiirhed pus- .'-i'>sion III' the nietrii|iolis ot' Chihuahua, and control its de|iendem'ies. lii>uri'eeliiiiis jilanned Imth here and at Kl I'a.so weri' antiei|iate(l anil iii|i|ieil ill the iienn. Anieriean traders and nmssenjii'rs lravii>eil the Slate iinharnied. It had lieeii sjiid that so small a lone eoiild not liohl Chihiiu- liua. /f iiiis i/i,iir, and tiiat with a linn :inil lram|uil ^ras]i. Hut the jieriod of our serviie neared its elose. From our own <riiverii- ment not a whisjier had reai hed I I'll Ul til e oiitstarl — no pay — no amiiiii n lion (our eartridues were made of |iowilei taken at iJia/ilo i- im reiiiloreemeiil.s — mi mmiey — no remini.seeiiee oi' mir own e.vistrm-e wai^ iliseermiili 111. General Woo! had delleeted from hi.-^ tiist iiitt iiti oiis. ami III ll r tiitfinifiil at Cliilni'tliiiii. On the liSth of Ajiril. Chihuahua was evaeualed, in oU;- ME X re AX WAR. i.n ( (kt'cllnlpff. 'J'llli.S //> iittciv-l aj;.,iiisi If 27tli, \w ciiicivd ■d >i.\ Wrrk.s ill il,^. • iii.s luic iiilti\iitc iiiialc. 'I'lir iiit( rviil. L'SO mil, Wdulil In. |,|y. liiidtliii^ iiiiilitv—. lilt water. wiPiM;, (ir iiij; lolilat iii;;lit, liliiialiiia: iiiidwav llu' uiily watrr ill mil} to .-lake „ur III III, UK n'rtori/ i,f Willi imj)(ii,s|Kilp|.- •lo ttiluiiiii iiitiivd tilt ((.iidint lit" the Hi!* — (if tlicir piiiil H I'V. Tli( •^«(. Will,' 'iiiii}; <imi|iaijiiiot' VII with ilu' siiiK! I*-*, and Kl I'a.-c, — iiiKiistiiilicd \K\^- ilf* dt|iciid(ii(i('.s. f aiiticijiatt'd and raV( r>c(l t|i,. Stale iiiil liid<i Ciiiliiia- ilS]). mir own '.'■"Vcrii- " l''''> — II" •iiiiiiiii- ■il IJiazitd) — III) VII «\i.-«iiii(f \\M id //' II r iipfiiiiiiil vacualj'd, in oU,'- (litnic to ati order from rfciKTiil Taylor, that we *houhl join his column at Hii<ii:i \'ista and Moiitcri'y. Tilt' inaiili to .Moiitrrfv. I'>.')<> inilt'S. was a(<iim]i!i«hid in :.'ll ilay!*--i7 jiiccfs of aiiiilcry. witli their caissons, and a (tain of limt lii-.^ . v. ii/ons, iii(iiiii|iaiiied lis. It was ii|ioii this descent from the tahje lilt Is • . he iiiiiiilinie iciiion. that oi;rsiifl'eriii<fs. from hr.-ickish water. siiP- :iiiu ■!;. t, iiiiilit iij.irches rendered necessary hy lonjr strelclies and li-' r. LH-t cxce.s-ive. Here. too. at Kl Paso, lit "• the city of Parras. w: Vun irV ri >U!» iictory ovcrtlu' ('amaiiche Indians. l>y a small hamlfiil i'' •"•^t'lant men. icil liy Captain Heid : 17 Indiansl.it tlie dn-t. From the oiit|iosts of the '•soiuhern arii»v." Iicvoiid liueiia \'ista we reached ('ainarjro. on the Hio del Norte, in nine days — |ias.siiij: through flic cities of Saltillo. .Monterey, and throii::h Ceralvo. Since the de](artiirt' of the Missouri eoliimn from the (/(.</< r;i honler up til iiiir return to oiir homes hy the I'ls/n-n honler of o'lr State, we havo travciscil the full distance of 7.")1M( miles. No jMisitioii of i'tjual imiHU'tance to that of ('hihuahua has over yet hccii licM liy the I'niteil States in Mtxico. nor anywhere hy so small a furcc. One thousand Mis.soiirians. oecu|iyiii>r ("hihuahu.i. cut off from •Mexico, New .Mexico, ami the two Califoinias in their rear. I'carin;.' j)er|ietiiiilly to he invaiietl. the States of |)nran<jro an<l Sonora witlihcM iVoin the Mexican iroveriitiient all men. military sn|ijilies. or fniaiii iai aiil. The amiile wealth, resources, mints, cannon, foumlries. and mull rill i\\' Chihuahua were coiiverteil to mir uses. Thus, ilicn. hy this nnfrul ]>osition, were held in check and .severctl from the enemy three-tifths of the territorial soil of tin; rejuihlic id' Mexico, ami ,')l)tl.tlilll ot' her |>o|iulation. 'I'lii.- |iii>iti.in. t commamls he pvat and maiL'nifieent road whicli leads iliiwn the central tahli' lands, throuirh the c;i|iit.ils id' I>uraiip>, Zacateeas, .\i:iia>('alientes, Leon, (iiianaxuato. and (^uerefaro. to the city of Mexico. Tiiis route is unohstructed hy nnuintains. ami leads to Mexico thr<iU'^li an idiuiiilant ami very healthy re;j:ion. If is the one hy which the trailers fitim Missouri annually visit the great •' fair id" San Juan" ami the city of Mexico. Ill It a|i|iears to me that the column of Mi>soiiri is the only one which has ade war with eth'ct aiel olitainetl from it woitiiv rcMilts. To he sure, iiir iveriiment lias tlirown them aw.iv, as uuworthv <d' notice, ami worthless; hut th IS does not k'.s.sen mir merits. A;-l In June. It), when the Mis>iouri c(dumii left Fort I.eavenwt.rth, (leii- erai Taylor s column was at Camaigo, ready to march un Mexico hy the I i' ^ •!^3 il 1:52 A ri'KSDIX. route 111' S.iii liiiis INiiiisi. In June, 17, tlii' Missouri I'olimin, rrturning til/ till (liilf. liiiiinl (Iciicriil Taylor's adviint'o posts at Hufiia \'ista, only -SINK DAVs' MAltcil in advance ol' that same ('ainarj:o. T^) Jie sure, Taylor's eolunin hail won Lrreat vietories ; Imt so also Ijnd tin- colii.Min ol' Missouri, a^^ainst a variety of i-nein les. Tho southern army lay licliilesH u]ion an uiiiinportuiit cd^re of Mex ICII, heninied in liy jiuerrillas— sueh as we found it, its ex|>enses .mioiinted tn .?i.(imi.(l(M) |,er vvt<'k. 7'),0IM» Anieriean soldiers had he.'U sent in :iii<i out ol' Mexico in a single year in this direction. The nuinl)ers of soldiers had borne a Hijiall ratio to those t'in]iloye(| in iiieii-of-wur, in fleets of transports and steamers, at tlie depots, and with wa^on trains. Fit\i\- mouths had been consumed advaneini: from the I)cl Norte to Monter«!y, 2S(I miles. /'/»>■ months from Monterey to Saltillo, 80 miles. Ihnw forward i 11 has been eomjdete sta;^natiori. Tl le pn.«;se."<sio MS of the .s('iithern army are strictly conlined to the citic of Monterey and Saltillo. A whole army is consumed in L'uardinir from ma.x.sacre and ile>truetion thi trains pa.ssintr alonj: the road that connects them with the J>ei Norte, only \W\ miles. T}ie ro/iiiiiii It/ ^fissoltri iiiifijt'irtcd tlmlf /nnii the Mr.ri,'ini jnirsft. After fulfilling its orders co'.npletely. by the con((nest of the States of New 3lexicn. Chihuahua, the two ("aliforni:i iiKl iiuni sllIuL' many Ind Ian nations — clo-iinir its onward pro<xress at Chihuahua, we have inai'ched tilMl miles from the hear' of tl'e .Mexican territory, n/miin/ out te (ienerals Tavl or uiul Wool. Filially, one irreat result is proved by these various campaiirus. /t is lii/ till' riiUtr iij till iiliiliiy mill flir tilhh' IiIiiiIk nf Mr.riro <iM,Y. tlnil /lir Mfixi- run iidtinii run In roiiifiirinl mill lirhl in nuhjrctltni hi/ the Aim rirmif. The eonli^iiration of the country, the healtli, the fiupjilie.s upon the route, its shortness, and tlu^ extraordinary results accomplished by the .Mis.-oiiri column, di'iiionstrate this. The slender means and small cost of our (jimpaiirii add more stronu' jiroofs of this. /■r/littc-coiinfri/nicn a in/ Lmliix : The soldiers of the first rrijin'xiti'ou from Missouri, exceptiiitr those who sleep forever beneath the shadows of th( Sierra Madre, have returned to receive the frreetinirs of their friends and kindred. We brinu with us the spoil of the enemy as trophies of our victories. Th asseuililie.s bli -th erowils of fair women a>id brave men — flu •omplinient.iry festivals an<l flatterinir woi<ls resoundiiii: in our ears from every \ illauc and from every cabin, are the trratifyinjr rewards of our ■ft"ort,< and our ( hvils 'I'liiis are our loiij;-susjH;nded hopes and painful anxieties consummated ii & MExrrw wm. 188 ••I'lninii, rrt„r,,;„ff {||<ll;i \'i.s(a, ()M,y , Imu so nU„ lijij It ('•L'-i' (.r Mr.xici, ■IISC.1 .iiiioiiiitid to Im'cii .s(..|it ii, ;„„| liosc ciniildycil ill ' <li'|M(ls. ;i||(| Willi "■ii'.i: (V.iiii ill,. 1),,| 'iiti'ivy to Saltillo, inn. iliiicd til till, citi,,,.^ in -iiaidiiiL,' iV.im roiid tliat coniictts <•*■ flic States of lini: many Indinn liavo niarchod (i(»(i / "I'f (•• (lenorals nipaiirns, // /,< /,y i.V, //„!/ Ilir Mr.n- "' Aiiiiriffiiis. iil>l>lif.'< u|Hin till' inij-lishcd l.y the iiiid .iniall c().st (if If ri'fpn'sififiii from I' .sli.idows ot" fill tlicir friends and tro|ilii(.s (if our •avi' nion — tlicsr in our (>ar.s fmni rewards of our es coiisuumiafed by a iliH>p and gratifying scn.sc of triiiin|ili. So bavu we in-rfunutil our ta.'ik, and .>4Ui'li is our iiiunititvnt reward. Suffer me to say, — as oiio elevated by their own suffnijri-s !<■ an iui|Mir- tiuit loiuni.ind ;imoii;T tliem. — a.s well to my feliow-SKliJier' a.« t«> llur^- here lircx'iit who have sons, or hrothi rs, or friends anions: theiii. that I r<>iin<l at all times the numt adinirahlu di.sei|iline: the inorit {>r<iiii|>t and s|m)|i- taneoiis oliediencc — at all tiujo.s a luode.st umussiiuiiti;; l>n«v«Ty, whieli met thirst and eold and starvation and l .^haiistinL: niirht uiarehe;>. with .•Hin<r< and ;-'iiyety and merriment. I)is]ilayod on the tield and in the hour of battle hy a )|uiet anxiety for the eliarge, and then |diin<rin<; down u|M(n the enemy with a fiery fury which ovirwhelmeil them with defeat and stuie_' them witli di->|i:iir. These (|uaiities they adorned with moderation after victory, and elemeuev to the vaiH|nished. But the eareer of your .soldiers, so hapjdiy he<nin. eloisii'S not heiv. May they not yet devote their younir eiieiL'ies to a eountry whieh they ;i!iiently love, and whieh thus j;eiieiously illustrates it.^Jove for them? War has been to our j>n»gre.ssive nation the fruitful .■<-at)on of general in<; new offspring to our eonle<l«'ratioii. During the Revolution, little armies, i.ssuing from tlie Alleghanit's. fia.s.<<><l os'cr Kentuei;y, the Northwest Territory, and Tennessee. The?*- new eiiun- tries had heen reeonnoitred and admired. With hanly frimes. eonfinued health, and reeruited by a year or two of peaee. these soldier* returned to oecupy the choice sjiots whi(di hail been their bivouac and cauijiiiig- giounds. l''rom the campaigns id" war grew the settlements of |iea«T. and jiopulous States dis|)la(;ed the wilderness. Another war came with another generation — armies jienetrated Miehigim, uy<\)eT Illinois, and into MLvsis- sippi. The great Mi.ssi.ssippi, ero.s.><i'il at many |M>iiits. eea.s«il to Ik? a l>ar- n'er, and the steamboat appeared, plowing its yellow flow. Five great States and 2,(MMI,((0(> of |)eople embla/on its western bank. Anil ii'iir, (if/ain, have come atuithrr i/eiienifioii uml «/H»*/A»*r icar. Your little armies have sealed the et<!rnal barrii-rs of the •• Mother Mountain" of the New World, and, buried for a time in the maz^-s of 11* manifold peaks and ridges, liave ibljuHclud at many points upon the briny Ix^eh of the Pacific. P.issiiig round by the great oceans, a military innrinf simultanoouslj strikes the shore and lends them aid. Thus is the wihlem«>S!? r«fon- noitred in war, its geography illustnited, and its conquerors di.«4.-iprtucd. Your soldiers, renting for a time at home, will s;dly forth apiin.. and, wielding the weapons of hus})andry. give to you rtKids that will nurture commerce and a sisterliood of maritime Stuttit on thf imr-founJ r^tan. I !| i|! 134 AI'PK.MHX. We return, tlu'ii, tu tin- liosoiii (il'tiiir lilnriMiiH State, to bury our liouiid- iiig liearts iu tlie joys of responsive ^natulations. Coining tVoni arid wastes and tlio unrelieved stttrility ol' mountains and plains, to sian a^iain the verdant lields and niantliii'; forests of our niotlier-land, wliicli nt' us ull tloes not apostrophize, with glowinj; hearts, our native scenes? — II nil to Colundiia, land of our liirtli — hail to her niagnitieent domain — hail to her generous peojik — huil to her matrons and her maidens — hail to her victorious soldiers — <M hutlXa her im s/ir i".s — hail to the suhlime dc.xtiuy which hears her on through |ieace and war, to make the limits of llm uoutiuent her own, and to endure forever ! i I IT. SI'KKCK OF ('(M.. WIMJA.M (illJ'IN (iS TIIK sriUK< T (iK TIIK I'.MIKH' IIAII.WAV KlItST SI'iikKN AT TlIK lAMI' tif HVK TlliKSAMt ( AI.IKlillMA KM |i. II ANT.-', AT \VAKi:i(l-.\ SnW TIIK ITTY itK I.AWUKM i;,. KANSAS. KKI'KATKli AT I N KKI'KNhKNiK. Ml»i'l Itl. AT A M \S.S MKKTINtI iiK TIIK (TTI/KNS oK .lACKSK.N Idl NTY, IIKI.H NnVKMIIKIl ■., IM'.I. It is willi |iriili)im(l |)li'jisur('. Mr. ('Iiiiiiiiiaii. lli.it I Mildnss my li'llnw- titizi'iis lii'ic ii.ss«'iiil»l«>d to rt'M|Miii(I ii|i|in>viiij:l} to the Niitidiial ('niivcn- tiiiii ii t St. [ idlllS. Iliiviii}; sliiind witli the itiniiccrs rrmn Mis.-'imii in tin; iiri;;iii:il ('\|iliir:i- timi iiiiil sctllt'iiicnt of On-jroii mihI Califiiriiiu — liaviiii; since hi'di iini- iiiiiDii^ tiiMsc holdicrs wlm t-anitil, iliiriiii; war, mir national fla^ iicni.sH the Siena Maiiie, ami jilantcd it ii|i<iii tin- waters tli'.sccmlini.' to tlie Paeific (never tliemi! t(i recede) — I j:reet willi enllmsiaslic jny tliese civic iimve- nu'iits dl" tlu! iieiijde to ((insmiimale, with the frreat work.s uf peace, what war and e\|ili)rati(iii have ii|ieiied. I>i|il(iniacy and war have hron^dit to ns the ciiin|iletion of our territory and |ieac«'. From this we advance to the iiKsii.TS. These results are, tiir tlie present, the imperial expan.sioii of our repuhlic to the other ocean: frail lity with Asia : and tlu^ const met ion acio.ss the et^ntre of our ler- ritorv. 'loin ocean to oe«'a to us n, of I ^rreal iron ]iatiiway. specially national iriternatioiial to llie northern eoiitinent.s of America, Asia, and 'iiiriip( III approacliiii>.; a discussion of a " Xatiiuial Railroad from the Missis- ippi to the I'acilie," intinite in numlier and variety are the matters \.Ui-h. d t swarm up and deinanu to array themselves in its advocacy th .. do I feel emliarra»sed how to .say such thinjis only as are true and .-e.i.sille in th< leiiiselves, iis well as interestiii'i to mv hearers : let me, then. Lei-h what my I may say uiuler the followiiiir head" :- 1st. Th(> national character of this work, and it s iiirisxi '.'/■ -d. Its pracli<al>ility. and the jiresent capacity of the nation. • >d. Tlu^ time and manner of its eonstruetion. I'ro^re.^s, political lilterty. eipiality. These, the most ancient iiiid car- dinal rij^hls of human society. |ierple.\cd in the olt.scurily of military '\v»- potisin, and almo.st lo.st for many centuries, are now struj:<;lin}X thioutrliout iiHi! 1^ il « 13G Al'I'KXD/X. tlio wt>rl(l t(» if-('.stalili>li tlicir jiic-ciiiiiuiicc In Aimrica they occiiipv the vaiita<j;o-^n)iiii(l ; liu- MiviTci^nly icsitli^ in tin- .siitl'ia|ro, anil witli us it is universal. I'ln^rcss, lliiii, in Aint-iica lias tiic intcnsitx oC tlic wlmlc ixuplc, ^jniw- in^ itsvll' in toinis as intinitc as tho tluiuulits nl' the human n ml. Itut it is til liiat (l('|iartnii.'nt tif]ir(ijircss which t-rcati's fiir us new Slates in ihc \vil(|( rntss, and cxiiainis the ana »it" nur I.Jciiulilic, that 1 licit' restrict niyscir. Let us umlerstand //((>■ ; what it is at the jnesent Imur — wliat simulate: k'hat retards it. Since 1(1(IS wi! have ^irown Irnm nuthini: to 22,(MI(I,(MI(( : Irmn a i;; ir- deii-liatch, tt» lie thirty States and many 'i'erritiiries ! This, with aj;riciil- lure, manutaulures, cDmmerce. |Miwcr. and hapiiiness, is mir jimtiros sc» fiir. The annual yield in inuney of this ajrriculture and manufactures is nnw Sl',(I(MI.(MM».(KM». This enmmeiTo vexes all the waters and penetrates to all the nations ot the earth. This jiower, tranijuilly coni|ilele on our own continent, com|icls |ieaccrnl dercrence aliroad. This happiness, se hcncli- ceiilly felt at home, ret ruit,« us with the oppicssed ol" all nations. litit the lite of a nation is loniz. I'nlike human life, hrielly exlin- "uished in the i;rave. a iiation lireathcs evei- on with the viuor of "viicra- tioiis of men daily arrivinir at maturity, and then de|iartin^ nation luiH then a iiiiniiiil law of *th ; and il is this law which evcrv Aniericii II citi/en ou^ht familiarly to nnilersland. for iliedieiice to it is the first duly of patriotism. I'p to the year IS id, the proi;ress wherehy iwciity-si.N States and four Territories had heeii estahlished ami peopled, had amounted to a solid strip i)\' till III i/-/in mi/is in depth, added aiinmilly, alon^' the western face )f the I'nion I'liiii Canada to the < iulf. 'J'liis occupation of wild territory, accumiilatini: outward like the annual viiijrs of our forest trees, juoceedls with all the .solcinnily of a I'rovidential ordinaiiet II IS a I th IIS moment sweeping onward to tin icilie will ■leiated acti\itv and forei', like a delu';e of men, rising tnaliatedly, and daily )iuslie(l oiiwanl hy the hand of (iod. It is from tilt! uliilisf irs acel iiiiulated in the hureaux at Washini't on (tlu' decennial cciimis, sales of piililii' lands, a.sse.ssmeiils of Static and i.diice with ceilaiiilv the law of this deluj'e of national taxe: ihal lal We 1 human heiiiys. which iniihin^ iiilerrnpls mikI no power can stop. I'r.intinj: the I'liion on every side is ;i vast (//■/*/// of pioneers. Thi- va«t hody, iiuinlierinu .'(IMI.IIUII at least, has the iiioveinents and olieys the discipline of a |ierfecily oiiiaiiized military force. It i.-« momentarily re- cruited liy siiijih' individuals, families, and. in sonic inslaneex. eoniniiinititis, icrica tlicy (,(tu|,.,- tlnip'. iiiiil Willi u> Wllulc |M(.|||,., f.\u,\\- nniiiiii II 11(1. ];„( :.S 11, 'W SlMlcS ill (1„. lal I licit, lohict iv.sciit liDur — wjiat •,0(1(1 : lioiii a u.,|.. Tliis, with a;;ii(iil. is iiiir jiru;^ri','«.s so laiiuf'acturcs is now ihd iH'iictratt's in iiii]il('lc (III iiiir (nvn a|(|iiiicss, .sc liciicli- II nations. life, iiiicfly cxtiii. Ill' viiiiir (if j:ciici:i- •arliiif;. A iiatinii icli fVi'i V Aiiiciiciiii it is the first duly • IX Slates ami fimr iiiiiinti'd t(i a snliil If,' till' Wl-isttTII liliv imlwanl like tlir H' sdlciiiiiity til" a n.u iinward to the ip' III' nicn, rising' od. IX at Wa.sliiiii^rfdii ■Ills (>r Stale and of this (IcIiim;,. ,,| ran slri|i. f |pi<iiieer.s. This iitM and olieys tlie s iiioinentaiily re lees, eonumiliiliiM. 77/ A" /M V/FIC It A IL WA Y. 137 from evei'V villafie. eounly, city, and State in the I'liioii, and by ouii- raiit Is fi'iiin other nations. Eaili man in this moving,' thronj^ is in force a jilatoon. lie makes a farm u|pon the outer cdjio of the settlements, which he occii|iies lor a year, tin i.m 1 tliiMi sells to the leading liles of the inasw inessing uji to him In behind. He aj;ain advances twenty-five miles, renews his farm, is again over- taken, and again .sells. As individuals fall out from the front rank, or fix lliemselviis |iermancntly, others rusli from ludiind, jiitss to tlm front, and a.s8iiil tlie wilderness in tlieir turn th 1 icvioiis to tlu! late war wi th .M ex ICO, this I HIS\ til roll'' was entra'jei lat (iiie |piiiiit ill oecii|iyiiig the jieninsula of Florida and lands vacated liy ant Indian trihi's — at another in re.'cliing the cojijier region of liako ciiiil:!' iSuperior — III al)Sor)iing lowu u uid W iscoii.''in. 1- I'liiii tl lis v<'ry s|io t liad •'one forth a forlorn hoiie to oee "10' o rc"(iii and ('alitiirnia : Texas was thus annexed: the? Indian eounlry pressed u|ion its flanks; and s]iy conipanies reeoniioitring New and Old Mexico. Kveii then, oheyiiig that mysterious and iineoiitrollaMe impulse wliicli drives our nation to its goal, a body of the hardiest race that ever faced varied and unnnmliered priv.-itioiis and dangers cmliarked iipcn tlie trail to the Pacific coast, forced their way to the end, cneoiinteriiig and defy- ing dangers and diflieulties uiijiaralleled, with a courage and siii'ce.ss iho like to which the World has not heretofore seen. 'fliiis, then, iivcrhniil sweeps this tide-wave of pojiiilation, alisorhing in its tliiindering march the glebe, the sa\agi's, and the wild beasts of the wilderness, scaling the mountains and debouching down upon the sea- board. I poll tl'.e high Atliiiillf sea-coast, the pioneer Ibrci- has thrown itst'lf into ships, and found in the ocean-fisheries food for its creative genius. The whaling fleet is the iiimiiir force of the pioneer army. These two forces, by land and sea, have both worked steailily onward III the North Pacific. They now reunite in the harbors of Oregon and raliliii'iiia, about to bring into existence u|miii the I'a'ifie a commercial grandeur identical with that which has followed them upon the Atlaiitiu. National wars stimulate progress, for tiny are the coii.scinience of indis- creet op|iositioii and jealousy of its inarch — and becaii.se in these jieriods of exciteinent the advciitii.-oiis brush thrnngh the cobweb laws spun by the metaphysics of peace. Then it is that the yoNiig yxVy/iryr.s, cnleriiig til" armies ol' the iVoiil nr, rush out and reconnoitre llu' unpruiied wilder- iie.xs. J.'uriii- ihc lii till K til III. \\n\i' armies, i.Hs.«ing down the Aili'ghanie.s, in-.l ■ii ^,!'i i| i ill 138 M't'i:.\hi.\. jmssoil liver Kentucky, Tciincssir. aiiil tin- Ntirtliwest Territory. Tlicw new ((luntries wen; rucdinmitred and ailuiired Witli hardy tVa nies, I'dii- iirined liealtii, and reeruited liv year nr two of jieaee, tliese mi|(Ii<'i> returned to oeeupy tlu- elioiee sjiots wliieli liad lieen ilieir liivuune iiiiil eaniiiin^'-jrrouiid.s. From the eani)iai<;nM ut' war grew the i^ettlenients ot'peaee, and |in|<nl<>ii.s States diM|ilaeed the wiKh-rness. Ahiitlier war eanie witli anoth<'r <;eia>r;ition. Annies ]ienetrated inin Miiliij^an, u|)|ier lllinoi.x, and throu^li .Missis-^ipiii. Tlu' great .Mi»i»i|i|ii IJiver, crossed at many |ioints, ceased to he a harrier, and the stcanilio:it aj»iieared, jdowinjj; itHycHow flood, /'ar great Stales, yitv. Territories, ami tlirir iiiiZ/iiiiis ol'|ief)jih' \u>w eml)hi/,on its western sidtt ! An.l now again have come another "eneration and anotlier wai \ our armies liave scaled the icy harriers of tlie ".I/o/Ar/- Miiiiiif'iin' and llic AiitltK. Hid tor a time in the mazes of their manitold |K>aks and ridges, tliey have issued out at many points n|ioii the l>eacli of the hiue I'.icitic. Passing round liy tlu' great oceans, a military tnarini- simultaneously strikes th(( shore and lends them aid. Thus is the wilderne.vs reconnoitred in war, itH geograpliy illuNtral<Ml, ami itts conquerors disciplined. Your young soldiers, resting for a moment at home. rcMiming the civic wreath and weapons of hushandry, have .sallied I'orlh again to give to vim great roads lor commerce and a sisterhood ot" nuiritiiiir Stati's on tlu- new- found ocean. Only four years ago, th(( nation, misled hy prejudic(-s artfully instillcil into the general 'iiiud, regarded the great \V<'>lern wilds uninhahitalilc. ami the lU'W ocean (Ut of reach. Why canu' : Itid.dlM) .soldiers, and as many citi/,en8, went forth, penetrated everywhere, and returned to relate in every <»p«'n ear the wonderful cxctdlence of tho climates and countries lliey had 8e(>n. l/iiirr Inive oonu! already tliese new States, this other .seahoard, and the renewed vivacity of progress with which the general heart now '.dpitates. Will this cease or slacken ? lias the poiu'ing forth of tlw stream IVoin Europ»iever ceased since the day < f Cohunhus? lias the grass uMiterated the ti rails down the Alleghanies or acro.ss the .>li,ssissip|ii .Mi Hath ct I'iin who douhts scat himself upon the hank of our magnitieenl river and await th running dry of its yellow waters; for soon cr shall he see this, than a cessation in the crowd now flowing loo.se to tlie iriftrrn seahoard ! (ioldisdng: Inmher is manufactured: pastoral and arahle agrienllurc grow apace ; a marine flushes into existence: commerce resounds : the fish- eries arc prosecul<'d : vessels are huilt : steam pants (lirough all the waters. Kaeh interest stimul.aing all the rest, and prrpelually creating novel- li,..v ;i career is i human eye assig Till' distance wluiv >"" 1^'"^'' some l.'.iMI mil riijiiiiu is very (lie .-uurccs ot I but more iniinei Skilelnd li> Aiidis, deliouc! two primary ch; (hi the /•/'//'' can tiiiir, divid. hrok.ii water-sli the ii-a.-t of the aldiigthe coast I terminates also The ininicns niontaiie liasins whole forms th /•'/V.>7, is the drainage of ho ocean, are disjit Sir, ,11, 1, the streams drainii without any oi 77-//./. the del Norte, the Giande del N. hurst through gcoloi^ieal <'hai all as>igii it tli their waters ti Fiiiirlli, the incuse !iasin e who'.e conllui athwart from i'onii I Into eye has lU^VU! (lies Nature i of such migli I'iifi'. and |in|,iil.>ii.s i"» pciirtriitcil inii md the .sIcjiiiilMut ''•' Ti'iriliii-ic.*. iiriil iiillii'i- war. V.iiir li>iiiit<iln" anil ilif jM-aks and ridiii's, «' tin" l.luc I'acili... iillancdusly .Htrikis <•* rc('(inn<ii(icd in •t'Miinini: tin' civic '^taU'.s (in the n ■< !irtrnlly instilld iiiiidialiitalth'. ami i<'rH, and as many I til relate in evcrv "nntiies tlu'v liad W'lihoard, and tli ^'i-a.s.s i.lijiieraled ' liathe:' h't Mm I' river and await xonndfi: tlictisli -di all the waters creatinu' nn\e|. THE I'M/FIC It Ml. 11. 1 )•. i:5'j tic,^. a career i.< cinuniiMiccd to wliicli, „.v it glances atTos.s tlio I'acilic, tlio JiuniiMi eye as.«i^'ns nn term. Tlic distance IVnm tile tup til' till- Sii iiii Miiiln ( Kdcky Mountain.s), will I'c \ou leave lieliind the water.-* Huwinn to the Atlantic, is c\erywlu'ro soMic l."iiH( miles. Tile t(ijioj;rai(liical cliaracler of this iillniii.oiitniw rcfiii'ii is very f;rand and characteristic. It is identical with the reniun at the .Hinrccs of the La I'lata, Ama/i)n, and Majidalena iil' Suulh Anieiica, hut niiMc innnen.se. Sketched hy its j;reat dutlincs, it is simply this: The chain ul' t!ie Aixks, dehdiichin^' north from the Isthnuis, opetis like the letter V into two primary chains (^0>nli//i nis). On the /•/'//(/ the SiKKll.V .M.MiKK. trendinjr ahinjj: the coast of the .Mexi- can (iidf, divides the northern continent almost centrally, formini; an un- hrokcn Wiiter-,shed to {{••hrinj;'s Strait. On the //yl', the Anuks follows the cna.-l of the I'acilic, warps aroiimi the (iiilf of California, and, passine aloMu the coast of California and ( )re^on ( under the nameof Sjeiia Nevada) terminates also near Hehrini^'s Strait. The immciisi^ interval hetween these chains is a siu'ccssion of inlni- inoiiiai:e liasins, sin n in nnndter, and ran^in^ from .south to north. Tliu whole forms the (litK.vr I'l.vrK.vf mk tiik T.mu k L.vnds. Firs/, is the " ISasin ol" the City of Mesico.' receiving' the interior (Irainaiiv of hoth Cordilh'ias, which waters, havint; no outlet to either ocean, are (Iisikthcm d rain evaiioratmn y eva] lU Siiiiiii/, the '• i{(ilson de Mapimi. (ollectin;!; into tlm Lajinna tl strcims draining.'; many States, from San Luis I'ottssi to Coahuila, also willeiut any outMoiv to either ocean. Thiiil. the " Has'ti of the Del .Norte." who.se vast area feeds the Ilio del .Norte, the Conchos ami Pecos. These, concentrated into the i{io (ir.iiide del Norte liehind the Sierra .Madre, have, hy their united volume. hinsi ihrou!j;h it." mil found an ontlrl towards the .Vtianlic T ^^'coloL'ical character of this liasin, its altitude, its ctuitli^uration and locality, all as<.ii^ii it tliis pns.iiim, as distin<ji;uishine' it from all others conlrilnitin;^ their w.iters to th" .\tlantie. /•;/i///A, the >• |{asiii of the (ireat Colorado of the West." This im- mense !iasin emitraees ulinr, , the u-reat rivers Hio \'cii!e and IJio tirande, who-.e confluent waters, pein'tralinji the miuhly Cordillera of the Andes ath«Mi( from hase to h.i.se, disch.iriie themselves into the dull' of Cali- I'onii I Int.) this sulilime eor;;r ithe Ca m of the Colorado! tin human eye li.is never ssvi'pt, for an int, rval of .'»7r» miles: so stern a chaiacter does Nature a.ssume where such stupendous mountains resist the pa.ssa^e of such miirhty rivei-s. 140 APPfXDlX. Fif'li- llif ■• 15ii-^iii "J" flic <«rt'ut Siilt Lako," like the Caspian of A sia. |!^lli'! cuiitaiiiiii<^ many small basins within one ^neat rim, and losin<; its scattered Walers liy cvaiporatimi. lias no outflow to either ocean. Si.itli. the " Itasiti of the ('ohnnl)ia," lyini; across the northern ii;n,k» 1)1' the two last, and ;;rand ahove them all in position and eoiiliMnr:itiiiii. Many great rivers, besides the tSnake and U]ijier Colnmbia, diMcml from the i:reat an- of the Sierra Madre, where it circles towards the ikhiIi- west from the j:{d to llu; Ttlid de;^ree, flowini; from east to west, and lon- eentratinj; above the ('nsciiifrs into a single trunk. It here strikes the mighty Cnrdillcra of lln^ Andes (narrowed to eiie ridge), and disgorges il.-iclf thrnuyh this sid)li me lass at once ii ltd th l*aeili( It is /«/•<, descending by the grade of this river t!ie whole distance from the rim of the Valley of tin- .Missi.ssipjii and through the Andes te the I'aciiic, that the great ilihuitvh of the American continent towards the west is found. Ihn will be the pathway of future generations, a> the peoplt' uf the Old World pa.ss down tin; Mediterranean and out by (iibraltjr. Above, the "Basin of i''razer l{iver" Ibrms a srnnl/i of the T.nhi.K Lands. This has burst a canon through the Andes, and like the fourth and si.vth basins, sends its watt'is to the I'arilie. W'nh the gi'igraphy of the mon; northern region we are imperlictly ac(juainted, knowing, however, thai, from I'uget's Sound to I{eliriii.^(t Strait, the wall of the Andes forms the beach itself of the I'acilic. whilst the Sierra .Ma<lre forms the western rim of the basins oi' the Saskalduwaii of Hudson Hay and the Athabasca of tin- Arctic Seas. 1'hus, ibeu, biielly wt! arrive at this great cardinal departnu'iit of the geography of the emit inent, viz.: TllK T.\lil,K ii.v.VDs — being a longitudi- nal section (alnuit two-sevenths of its whole area) — internicdiatt' between the two oceans, but walled off from Imth, and having but three outlets fur its waters, viz., the canons of the Hio (Jraiide, the Coloratlo, aii<l the Columbia. Columnar basalt forms the basement of this whole region, and volcanic aeti(Ui is everywhere )iromiiient. Its general level, ascertained upon the lakes oi' the different basins, is about WW) feet above the sea. llaiu beldo'n falls, and timber is rure. The ranges <if mountains which separate the Itasins are often rugged hilst isolated masses of eri'jit hciiiht and capped wit'' jierpetual snow, w el.vate llieinselMs from the plains. This whole formation abounds in the jirccloiis wrt(i/K. Such is the region of tlii' Tahi-K Laniks. IJeyond these is the MAKlTi.MK region ; for the great wall of the Andes, receding I'mm the beach of the Pacific, leaves belween itsilf and the sea a hall- valley, as it were, forming the seaboard slope from San JJiego to the iIk! ('ii,s|,ian of Asia "1 losing its .sciuUTcd •lie iiciflicni fliii.ks >ii and <(.iilij.riiiiili„ii. Collllllliiii, (IrMcrid ■M.pvviinls III,. ,„„.,i,. •^t t.) West. jiihI ,.„„. It iiciv .strikrs III,. '.-'■), ;iii(l (li.sgdi'Nts I'acili.'. tllC wilolc (ii.st,||;ci. ii<Mi-;li 111,. AiKlfs |„ *'iitiii,.|it tdUiiids til,, ratitiii.s, .•i>tli,.]„.,,|,|,. "lit liy tiiliriilt.ir. '■"illl (>(■ 111,. T.Mll.K , ami like tli,. foiinli I we arc iiii|),ifi.,tly Smiiid to i{,.|irii: /,s il" til,' l';i,i(ic. uj.il.st of tile Sii.skiili II, w.iii s. I "Ii'iiiirliiiciii oC til,. — I't'iii.u: a loiij;itii,li. itcniicdiiit,. Iictvvifii lilt till-,.,. oiiil,t,v t;,r Ciilonitlo, and lli,. •ff-'iiin. and volcanj,' ■i<'<'rtain('d ii|)oii di,. 'Vc 111,, sea. lluiii !* aro oftt.n ni<r<,'<M! it'."* tif firi'at, height ion aixiunds in tli,. wall of 111,. Andes, i it.Htlf and tin; M'a 1 San Diogo to the 77/ a; i'lr/Z/r It. Ml. Ill Y 141 StraitH if Juan di l''iica. This is 12<MI miles in Icii'.'th and "jrid Kmad. Across it disci'iid to tiic Mca u wrii's of fin,. riv(.rs, laiiuin^ fniin south t<) north, likr thf little streams desi'cndini: from the Allci^hanies lo iht; Athintie. These are thf Han (jahriel, ihe Buenaventura, th< ."^aii .loakiin and SaeraifM'nto, fli« H<»«^ue, TIaiiieth, and rm(|Ua livers, tht Wallainette and Columtiia the (V/wlJtz Thekalis, and V-i-ifiually of Pii;rei .'^..iind This re.icirM** mA Mawes th< niaritfwy slop,, of tin' Atlantir >ii|,. ,if till- loiitineiH \mt H w taiifly kirjfer swp<'»<^i»lly : of rtk». highest a;rri- ctflturKl ♦'xeptttvtX!,' Imni^'v m i-ztvivjA'^t^x : yi^titmA beyond (th<' Jik-wiis ol' deserijiifiof, »lie !'(i'.S»'v ymii* mA V<iA*"IW»<«s <X flw Afllles heio'. A .ivwheri- visilile rV"<ii r|ie M'A, 'i^viitt 1^ .tHumtt* >* eufi>>!f>ly rx'-m}^ fr<Hi> the frosts iif winter. .*^u(li. and s.> '/r»n<\. \^ our *<'if»rUf*0 f»»#iw»|« A* fn^idv. f,«'t us turn <i»r /laiiee towards the Artiwitie ani4 .Sr^^i^iif ( h-t^ittm' aiiel «',«n tlie ;jiiiM:ra|ihy in our front, /''imr jjjreat vaililey.-* w^^M <»:«eh "it^ dr.iiif't liy w river of tlie tir-t ni;ij.'iiinide. FiitsT The Mississijijij VaUey, •ftwiXi-^ in mut'/uitwlf. and nihraeiii}^ the lieart aij<l s|.l< ndor of fhi- eontinenf, ;.';ffhef>' <fc*> r/aters oi .'i(IO,(((Mt stjiiare miles and i<h<-ds them into lli,. (iiilf uf Mt-x'i^'t liil. Tlie St. F<awr< «ee, whose riv,'r flows into flw Vorth All lie. .'M. The Xel,s<»ii »nd Severn Kivers, into iludsoii K-.^y Mil The (,'reat valh y of th.e M'-Keiisi,' l{iv,.r, rusliin^ •' into the llyjii cIkh'iih Sfil. These valley*, evervwlief.* ^tthitrrnnti. have a iiniftiiui sini lei . f^eii'!\ rolling, hut dcstituf'' of niouniaiim, niid |hi«m into ««*<' inoth« r ly ilivliliioj rlihfa. which distriliute its own w<''jt* info eiu-h Nut wh»««H' superior' elevation is only distinjruisliahle aiiioii^' the frenei.u w 'ihitioiis. hy rtt»«» water-sheds which they form. Around tlie whole eoiitinoist. foIlowin<r tli,' coasts of ili. .-.-lans. ■)»» « rim of mountains, frivinj^ the id, 'a id' a rnul (inijtliltlinitri Throiii;li this rim jier.etrate towards the s,uith, cast, and north, tlie alio\.' ;rreat rivers mill/, formiii;^' at their delioiichcs the natural (Ai'(/'.s o/'///* Inti riur ; hut no stream penetrates vrst ihrou^di the Sierra .^Iadre, which forms an iiii- hrokeii water-shed from Majrellan's to Hehrinji's Strait. Thus we find more than t/irn-jij'tlis of our continent • consist of a limitless plain, intersected liy countless n.ivinalile streams, flowiiii; cvcry- whvw /mill the eireumfereiiee towards eoinmon centres: u'roiiped in dose proximity: and only ilivided l>y what connects them into one homoj^eiieous plan. To the American petj/le, then, bcloii^^s this va.st interior ."pace, covered 1 4 iiiij iiriij fr i'li! Mi .1 /•/'/;. \7> /.v. iiViT it« niiit'nrin miiImi'i' i,\' L'..tlMI, 011(1 >i|n.'iri' iiiilrs. willi tlic lirlnixt ciitciiitiiiiK Miil : liiiirliiiijr llic hiiiiWM tdWiirils llic lunili, mikI iIh' ii.irid Ih'iits ti>wiii'il> llir stiiitli : IiiiiiimI to'.'rllit'r li_v iiii iiitiiiitt' inli'iii.il ii;i\i'_ra. timi: <>!' ii ti'iii|ii'r;iii< iliniati- : mikI ('iiii>(itiitiii!.'. in tlic wlmlc. iln' iiin>t iniiL'iiirK'cnt il\viHiii}r-|iliM-f niiiiki'il mil )iv (Soil tor iiiiin's iiImm|<'. .\> llif <ii||i|ilrti- licMfliiriiic (if till' Alliii'.'lilv Ii;i> tlllls i;i\cli Im i|,i, ciiiitiiiviil, tin- ^Tfiil ii:itiir;il .iiilli'l> 111" llic Mi»«i-«i|,|,i III. . iirl"> III re. II •.'I'l'iil .'irlilicial iiiiiiiunii'iil. an ii'im ji.tiji. \\i sti rii >t'a. 1(1 llu- (iiill', iiiiil llic St. i,a\virncr *,,; tlir Ntiitli Aliaiilif, so is il li I'l t. ]>inii« ai:<l ^iriililnl |mii|i|i-. a|>|>r('iialiiit: tlii^ uooilncss. to constriKl tliioiijli tin- piiL'i' oi" tin' Sirna Mail a N ATliiN Al, HaiUvav to tin- liri'c \Vf |iri'('i'i\ I', in till- Inrnialiiiii nl' \hf Xnii'rican tMiitini'iil. a ~iili- linic siinplitiiy. a i iini|ili'lc rrnnnniv of arrani:<'ini'iit, ^linLMilai' In ii«ilt', mill till' nvt i>r (if wliat ilislin;rui.slir>^ tin' ainii nl wmlil, T.i iiinh r-i:iii.l tlii^. lit ns t'i>ni|>ari' llnni. I'll llMl'K. tlir >niallr>l of the Miami ili\i,«ii>n> nl' tlic /<///</, <-ontaiii» in in ccntri'. tin- uy mitssfs of tin' Al)>s; tioni aroiiinl tln-ir ilcdivitii* ni'/iniii llif Lrj<' ii\ri> of tlial (niilinriil : tin- l>.iniilit' ilin-rtly i-a.-l I" ilu- I'liixini'. llir I'll ami Klmni'. soinli t" tin' Mi'ilitrrraiiciin ; tin' Itliiin' li. tlir Noltllrni ( )ri'an. Wallnl nil' liy llif Pyrcnci's ami ('ar|iatliiaiis, iliviTLTiit ami i^nlalcij. iiri' llir 'ra'Mis, llif KMir, ami oilnr >in'_'lt' rivrr*. artlmnis of the Maltic. I nil till' Allaiilir. ibi' Mi'ili'iriamaii. ami llir KiixiMr. IK'Miiiilini: /';i/)/) t.>niiiion imliant |'ointx. ami iliviT;_'iii'^ ivi-ry way fi (ino aiioiln'i'. no intfi'i'iiniitinniialiciii exists iM'twrrn tlir rivrrs of l'!iini|i<': imvipition i» l^tty iiml ft'«'lili' : mn- liavi' art ami roniiiiircf. ilnrinu' ni:iii\ iTiilwti,* imrtMi' s<i iv,,h\ •mall vall<\- it innl'K i-diitfil liy ini|MiM nalili' I III 'Hers. It'll- \^i«4l rat-h rivir •!». |In „ ili^ilu. i |N-«(k' )lifr('rin;r fV< .n all lli<' nf4 VHt w«'('. lllll;J:l|j||^> Huliits. itn I iiiti'r\>M'> Tlioii^'li oHfii |»>lii1rally MUkiiuaiiiiili'il \<\ <oui|ii«'«t till \ .'itfniii |^*Ia)m«- iiilti rrii^nii'lili>. from innate If) iiiir<i/ifiiiiif iiiiii/ii II II X\\y hislniv >i| ihfse iiii*!oii< is a dnrv of |>< r|M-ttiiil nar ami mniiial I'Meiiiiini^Uitit Kxa. (ly '^iiiiilar lo Kmiii|n'. llioii^lt c*'«i"ii i in size ami |Mi|inhition, is \siA jV'!!!! tlii> K.u|a>M<liiH* «vitlrui UtrriiT iif tin Himalayas inn ilie lour 'jiti*! ♦ivcm of lliiiia .Itie •■mf. t- *^Iihiv< ihiin* Iv.^ ImimmiIi llir ii«: ■ •«» <«i»aii|- He soulli inn tile y\^< i- 'f r<><|ii« fhiim. tlie llaiii.'i"' ill! Im4i|o low. ml-- llii' i/>xMKv livorw ikf llic (\iN|iiaii ; ami north, t)«i-<tiit/l "'iU lia to tile Arclir S<'a», liiitlix ii»fr»» of lit. Hr>t mapiinnlc l>nrin^' fil>y 'i ninri.s, a> now. lli.- \l|»s tnnl Himalaya Mniiiilain^ huve |irii\'f«i iu»u|>i'alili' lmrru'n< (n tho Mliktl^.uii:ittiiti of the nalioiis rUK I'M'iriC I! Ml. MM )', 143 ''''•-■ Willi tl„. li,.),,,,, • ""i-tli. :iii<l ih,. |,,i,i,| itiriir.' ihtrtn.il n.ivi.M. •ll'' mIicpI,., lllr |||,..,t ii.iii'r* iiImmIi-. Il.l'« tlllls 'z'wvW I,, 11,4 l<l> nC ||„. .Mi,.i-,i|,|,j l:mtir. so is it ll fl t,, ;, '" r>ll|>|l||, t (l,|nl|_.|, iiMiiirnt. :iii inui |.,it||. "•■••in fMiitiiiiiii. M -nil. Mf. -illL-llljll (c. ii«,i('. »"rli|. Til llllc|rl-t:;||il If /'(;/./. rii||t.iill> ih ilM iiir (Icclivifits i;i.li,ii^ 'iiiiTlIy (.;,>( tu ilii- lariiaii : tin- IMii„c t., ivcrpiii iiiiil iMiliid'd. ffllK'MiS i.f (1„. Mjiiti,., •rL'iii-j i-vcrv \v,iv frmn till' i-'MT- ipf Kiini|M' : miiHTii'. i|iiiiii._r iii.'iiiv ilaliij liv iiii|iiiii tialilc ilifl'.liiiL' »V. ,11 all llir "It'll unni |M.|il1,;|||y 'itjtuiuu. O'.in iiiiiali' i(*.«tiii» ix a xinrv lit' •• mill |Hi|iiilari<iii, is IlillltllilV.-l.x Mill llii' ■ •111-- Iv.'r* lirliralll tile ill Chiiiii. till' (iaii<jri'.M • 'a»|'iai( : ami imrtli. In fir^t iiiaj:iiiiiii|iv liiiialava Minintaiii* fi'Mi III" the iiatiiiii'- ariiuis tlifir liases, ami ilwi-lliiii: in llir \allrys wliiili raiiiatr iVotii llu'ir .•<lii]i •>. Till ('.iitiiifiit III" Afkica. as I'ar as wc kiiuw llir ilctails ui' its surt'afc, i>. I'vrii imu'i' (liaii tlicsi', s|ilit into ilisjniiitnl tVaiiiiimts. Tliii>^ ill"' '"mi""'"'"" "I '!'♦'' "'' ^V"|■1'1 rrsi'iiilili' a Imwl ]ilairil Imltimi ii|i\\.iril-. wliiili srattcrs fVci'ylliiii.L' |»iiiii'i| n|iiiii il, whilst Niuriii KKN Amkiiiia. ri'.;lit siilc iiji. ren-ives ami iralluTs tnwai'ils its i-i'iiirr wliatrNiT falls witliiii its rim ! IJi'linlil. llii'ii. llir ^'l ri UK 111' Aiiirrira, ;^ra\i'ii, in llu' iri''ii;'i'a|iliifal lini's ami ailrrii's III' lirr sMiinnlriral. iiffaii-liuiinil i'.\|ianM'I IJi-lin'.il it fmi- liilil in till' nrariilar ]irii|ilii'rii's nJ' past ainl [irrsriit |irii;ii'i'.ss. In i;i'ii:;ia|ili_v llir niififli' sis iif ilii' Olil Wmlil, ill •:ii. V it will In- tin- nvii-r. (fur Nmlli Aim'iifa will ia]iiilly attain li: .i . ilatinii iijiial- liiij; llial i»r till- rest iif tin- wniM ciiiiiliiiH'il : tiiriniiiir a siiiji' |iiii|ilc, iili'iiliral in nianiici-s, lanL'na;j;i'. rustmns. ami iin|Milsi-s : I'lTsi-rvin;^- lint saiiir i'i\ ili/atiuii. tin' saim- rcliuinii : iinliiinl with llic saint' (i}iiniuns. and liaun;/ llir same |iiilitical lilu'ilirs. Of lliis wi' liavc twii illiislraliiiiis iiiiw nmlir niir eye : tlu' imi- ]iassin<j; awav, till' iillicr ailvaiirin'_'. 'I'lif almri^inal Imlian rare, aimini: wlniiii. ri'iiiii I'arii'ii III till' Ksi|iiiiiiai<\. ami rrnni I'luriila In Vam-niivi'i's Isiainl, I'M <ls a iii'irrct iili'iilily in llii'ir liair. niiii|il('.\iiiii, li alniTs, staliiri'. an 1 laii;.Miai.'i'. Ami stii,ii<l. in tin- iiislim-livi' rnsiun intu mn' laii;iiia;.'i' ami iiiir iii'W ''ari', lit' itiiini'.^rant tliTiiians. KiiL:lisli. j'ri'in-li, ami Spani^li. wlinsc iiiili\ iiliialiiy is uliliirratril in a sinuli' L'l'ni'i'atiim ! Ai llii- imiini'iil. \\w iiinriliiiii y »«//;'<//. |ilanm'il willi ilark ui'iiius. ami ]iur- siiiil with scni|iulous scltislini'ss. |ialls nur nianli. Nntliin.: liiliiml iis in liisiniy at all rixals in ra|iiility nl' urowtli. in wrallli. ]iuwrr. ami s|ili'iiiliir, lliiisi' Stall's iiiaskiii;: llic sralmanl. ami ralli'il at liuini' •■ ///'■ Ohl Tliirli i it." Jli'Tc all' cities (ami a ureal niiinlier nf tlnni snr|iassint;. at inie een- tiiry iilil. lliuse III' a tliniisaml years u|hiii tlie nlij luntinent-- ! Till' Slates have swelieil as t'ast. This ailniiial ilr ;^^l'atnl■^s IS line In the iiia>liry nt'the euniinenl wliieli ihey exeni^e Ky inajurities in the naliniial eiiiineils, III the iiiiineiise imnine ni" leMiine which they thus iiilli<-t ami Use. ami til their iminii|iiily ul' all I'nreii:!! inniiiierei'. A new ami riv.il sealmanl — " '/ .V' /'• Tliirt'i n" — wniiM halve ami ilis- Iriliiile all I lli'l'iiS: ll' these. It was /((jv .>"•< // liinv |irii;jTi'ss, traveilin;.:' i< iilriilii/ s lh<> ciintiiu'iit. was striiliiiir ]iiiint-lilank tu this ciiiisiiininatinn. To rrtanl this, imletinitelv. arn-i' the nniii/iiii' jinfiri/. invenleil tiy suj'histry, aiiil siistaineil tiy nieta|ihysiis. .^ir. .letVersiin haviiiu. with i nnsnniin.ite |ireseieiice, ailileil In uiir ilmnain the liiiiiisiaiia iiiiicluiM' : llieimist s]<l, mliil jHirtimi of the haliilalile uluher 144 M'/'t:\itix. liiiM«-iii'(| (o u'i^i' i( |iii|iiiliirniii ami a iiiiiriliini' witi^' lu ilic I'm itir. |-)x. pldratioiiM iiii<icr ('Lirki- ami L'wiH, aii<l uIImts, rulliiuril liy Anior ^< i iiiir- ]irlm\ »iHUiH\. fitrh/ j^iiirn »)in. Jhc jrr.at inriiiiu'rciiil iniitr liclwcni i|i<> i»cfaii.«. >iiic" .iliiil ii|i li_v llic iiiiiriliiiii i>"/ii I/, lull iinw ri'i>|i<'iii'i|. Tlii.-f Wfic t iiii l»ri| ami iivinlirnwii \i\ llir ixi^cmir- nf liini'iii war. Tliat iivcr. flu- ili.«t'iiMii<i(i <i(' a mini' In A>ia wai* nvivtul li_v llir |iir*s anil ill ('((ii^rirs.M : A>i(ir siiii;.'!ii tnnn, w |ii,« cnfciiiriwH, ami aid wa«* iji-iiiaiiilni IViim tin- uiivci'Mimiil liv (III' |>(ii|ilc (if (III \Vi.«(. ami liy iiairintic imli. \itliiaU ill tlif Ka.>t. Tlii- w.is ri'lum'tl \i\ t\\i- yu\'u\ i,\' i'roi.lciil Mdiuni* ailiiiiiii.Hiratiiiii ii- wii.isi laltiiict w«Tt' coiiinimil Mr.x.Ts, .1. if Ailainv nf Ma.x-'acliiisclt,-'. aii"l .1 (' ( 'alliniin. of Sciilli Carolina — kiiIiiIc slalom. h III' ilic iiiii-t pi'iirlraliiiL' tiiirsii:lil ami llir !iil'iii>l aiiiliilinii I'liwrr ('iniL'i°a(> ■< a.>« liim' mils dh TIh' jh'IiIc ami t'aM'iiialinii nl' itx piissrssiiiii liii^t-r Mi|iri'iiii'ly |Hit)'i.t in tlir Imiiian lu.irt. I'mni tlii« prii tiiuiiil wmrrp Iiiim spriiii^ tlm niin|iiitalili' iinnlliiiii i>i>ll< i/. ariaynl a-iiinM the nianli nf pniLTi-fs ami 'lir wrsiwanl iiiiirraliuii nl' pnwrr. Tile /'//■»« (■ Stall'. Ma."->a<liii>('lt>^. Iiaii |ii'ni'lainiri| a iialimial war iimiiii- Hiitiitiiiiial, ami iiiilialnl a( If.irttiinl tlu' pn |iaraliii'y plans (<> sirtili' I'rniii aiiil (lis.sulvf till' riiinii. Tlic /iitti r, Smilli Camliiia, Iian (lom- llir suni'. pmiiiiiimiii;; till- ;ri'm'ral pnvirnt' taxatimi iimiiiisiitiitiniial in a parliriilai' i'di'iii ; ami nnw apiiii appiar llie same ili-raiHul llinal.x nl' " rnni' ami torrnr. pmiiniimin^ unmiiilihitiniiiil a xpi'i'ilii' Ic^fislalinii I'nr tin- 'I'rrri- tnrifs. Ifrliinil till."* p»rp>ii nf iJMrin ( Xuf/ifltiifinii I, ami iinpfrrrivcij liy tin' p'tii-rai iiiiml. laslii'il intn ilisinay ami ilislrarlril liy " trrmr ami liirri, ' tlirratcniii;; llic I nimi, llir siilillr iiinfillim /m/iri/ lia.s Ihtii rivrli'il i|ii»ii Willlill the ynllllir Stales, llir pllMir L'li'lii' lias lii'i'li lii'lil liv till' II lillal pivcrnimiit ami witlilnlil t'min laxalimi. Tims is Statr rrviiiiii' i lit nil Tllt'.sc pulilii' laiuls al'r llrlil at a I \ raliliiral pi'ii r. t lir '-aii's inaili' ra>li ilniiatiniis III' liniiii'.strail rights, pii'-i'iiiptinii. anil u'i'ailiiatinn itI'ii-i i| Savages, cjii'ti'd I'rniii the nliirr States, lia' c lieeii liniiL'lil up ami plaiiinl 118 a wall alniii; the western t'lniilier ami aemss tlie line nl' pm^ress. TIiim' are nietapliysieally ealleil 1'nreii.rii nalimis. Heeelllly there lias lieell yiveli In the .snliliers nt'tlle liatinll a linlllilS nf 81UII ill niuiiey, nr 9-*HI in lami This is leuislative ileelariilimi that tin Jiiiee is I (Ml per eeiit. alMive tlieir hij.'liest value. The revt lis. i| frmn ihe iii.sinms is i nllieteil at the seapiirfs, where the expenses nt' enlleillnli ai'e ilislilll'seil. Tin heav \ part nl' this I'eVelillr is paid liy the a^ri' iiltiiristsnt'the West, wlm are theeniisiiliiers. ^.'t.tllKi mill uniiiially ni'direet land revenue i> exiiii-ivris paid liy these latter. Itiit where is this splendid imnim ..I >i in iiiiii nun. ihiis levied I'nr ili. Tin: I'Aiinr ii \ii ir.i )■. 11." ' iIk' I';m ifi,. |.;,. 'I liv AMrm s ,(,(,.,. r'"i(i' lii'tuiih i|„, l'l'ri|M'lll'l|. ''- "f ('ini.;!! \\,,f 'I f'V lllf fill «. ^iinl I li'l Mils ■I.'||i:iim|,,| I I'V I'ilUi.itii' iiiilj. I'li'.-iili'Ml Mmiioi. .i r". .1. iy Acliiiii- ..f Mllillc st:ili«iii,.|| liiiori. kI til.siilllllillll nf i|« "It I'lHlll lllj. |„,, /'■','/, iirnivcd ii;:;iii|,| |"i\vir. riMliiiiiiil Will- iiiiK.ii. pl;iiis rii >cc(i|c (Viiiii llil"^ ilnlic (lie "iiliif, ioiiiil ill a |iiii'tiriiliir h'litM (iC " fiiriT mill aliiiii I'm- ilir T.iri iiii|ii'iiii\<i| |.\ ill,' '• tfrnu- mill llnir, ' 1 Imtii riviii'il duuii Inlil liy llii' ci-nrnil \U' li'Vrlillc cut nil. Im' wiIcm inailc iii.li .'riKJiiiiliiiii nrii'-Ki I'-'lil ii|> anil |ihiiiiM| I'l' |priii.>-iT». TliiHi' IIIKinll a liiiUlil\ i.r lt'<-lariiliiiii thai iIm til*' H'a|M<rts, will n iirl 111 llli>. ITVrllllr ■iiiiKTM. is:t,oii(i (Mill In >!• latlii- iliiiK U'vittl liir ill.' niii-t |iarl fVi'iii Wi'.-'lcrii imliistry, ('X|icni|i'i| V To tin- imvy i« lirvnioil ^Itiinit.iHM) (all ii|Miii tin- tiili'-watcrs nt' tin- firaltimnl ). Tn the civil lixt g,*) iMiil.iliM) — all ihirr al.mi. To ninhnnril iiii|ii°iivi'iiiciit'<, viz.: ni»loiii- liiiii-.*, iiiiiit.x, liirlioiw. Itrcal •'••itci^, roililiiatioii^, navy yanl.-*, Ii;:lil iioimci*, nii>i <iirvcy. |ioMl oDicci, iirinori(!.H, etc., 92.ri(Ml,tM)i). .\|| this tiHi it ii|m>ii till' //'/( //!//< I\ To tlic army ?r»,(MMt,(»(HI — -tliJ!* i« rx|iiniliil mi ii inililary arailiiiiy, onl- iiiiiiri' I'lMiinlri.M, I'oiir ariillcry regiment;*, cuijinccirs — nil ti]Hin \\\v >.i<ili<niril. Tim it i-* ili:it a few Htiii^y ilrtail« nl' cavalry ami infantry arc ]M<-tci| in Nhaiitii"4 ii|Miii tlic Western frniiticr, and a larp'.".'< of liall' a niillinii xiwid fiiiinii': the I ml laiis. lint llic Hiii'di' foitrcf.« III' (lid I'oini ('onilort lia.x n»i more lliiin (!ie itiini total of Wcitci'ii military nlriictiirc^. Tims do we collie at one cardiniii item of iiiniiiiiiii |io\ver^^lO,lHtl),<Mltl niliiitid annnally from tliirly Staler*, of wliiili 8;i!).iMMi.tMlu i<. aiinmilly liiiid out to ihirliiii null/! Such i> the inrniin which iii'iritiiiif fni/iri/ sciiiris to if.-iclJ" liy taxation. riirihcr, the forei<_'n cx|Htrtt4 and inijHirtM amount to 8:t>*><).IMM),iMl0 |mt iiiiniiin — every |Miiiiid of tluM leaves mir Nhorcx or coiiic;* to u^ in tlieitlii|iM iif these iiinritiiiir StnfiH, and in ^l^lrel| al their .•«ea|M)rls, To tlieiii. tlieii, licli'iius the com|i|cte and |iriidi^'ioiis iii(piio|Hi|y of ilie carryiii.' trade of Aiacrica ! I« ii wonderful, then, that a jMiJicy should have liecii |iii.jci i.d with liiroi^lit ami |iiirsuei| with olwtinale will, to preserve to Un |>ii>.s< >.«ont an iiH'oine so s|ilendid, and a moiio|>oly of such infinite |irotit ? With thexc< iiiiiriliiiii StatcH, loo, rests the |iolilical lii:i«tciy of lh< litiliclil liccuus*- they have tw yet ulwayH had the inajorily of the Ijoiiscs of Conpri "s, nnd still retain that in the lluiise of HepresentalivcM. in i«|iii(> of the acce.-sion III' Ti vas, Iowa, and Wisconsin, which have changed tlie I^ciia'c. Ii i- the decennial census of Js.'id which will >;ive in the thirty-third ('iiuuresM a majority to this ;:reiit i:idi<.'enoiis Amerieaii |M-ople. residiii)< within the mountains, in the ^reat haHiiiH of the euiitinetit. To them will liclmc the glorious task lo u'ive to the piiMic doin.'iin its true, patriotic ll-c and root out the scorcliiii)^ tyraniiv. of which i; is imw the cn;.'i lie lo ma HiiH'iit; the ke taxation and the expenditures of revenue national and einial Htat« It and peop le. T II pay, not ^rind, tho pioiie< (iial i-n*. To revenw till' u>c<< iif the national wilderness, so that it.t 'jlelic -hall he the lieiicficenf Iniiiitaiii ot ^reat roads, iinliiiiiled ii^riciiltiirc population, eifiiiiiiivcc. and ./. T o rn-iili- riili ."^lates. In ifii'f iiA niuntnni' nni/ri/, miil n iinr lUiiliimn cilc the white man and the Indian, now kept l>y infainoii.H Iuwh in a si ite of iiiiplaealile feiids and mutual piracy. Il is Very vviekcil that our ^'ivcriimciit. Ii iiij: repultlican. hiw ravislied I ) II' lie AflhXIUX. ri'](iil)lit'iin lilicrly ami linlils iVnin the liulian, Mini ri'-ciiacttil iiir lii- race all tlu' (xlimis iii('(|iialitu<s ami iiiiiircssioii," tA' /iio/n/ifi/. 'i'llf set |ilir|Mi.sf ul" ///(//vV/;/)/ y«(//Vy to crUMll pPi^'lTRS (IfVclopcil its<'lt' with tlic ailini II into till' I'liiiiii of Mi.-soiiri. a State licvmiil lln' Mi >.sili|ii, ami Kiili) III ii|ion liic loiitcs ami riM-is towards tlic I'aiilic A wall of liiiliaiis was |ilaiit('il aloii<; the IVoiiticr troin tin' .Mi»<.iui tn till' Kcd lliviT. Thcsi! j'orftijn im/ii Wt I'c |ilaiili'il ii|ioii Soil wliii'h tlicy foi ilil Hot Sill. CoiiiiiKi'i •<i was |> iti'ii. ami t ii<< whit t' III. Ill t'lir- liiiliK;ii ciitram-i; iimlcr jiciiitiiiliary itii]irisoiiiiu-iit. Tin- army. it> ijutii'i ifVcrscd, was withdrawn lioiii daiipr, and |ilaiit«!d on lliu linn to liayniu't hack till! |ii(>niM'r». |{y thcsi! nrl'arious so|ihi>tri<'S it was drsi;iiiiMl to fonrr mi-oss the jtioiiiir iiniii/ ill J'lniil. lliish-inoni'y to tin- amount ol' !?>."», (MM(, ((oil was jiaiil to p't ihi'sc Indians ont ol" tin- oldir 'latos for llu' use of tin- IVdii- tiiT. Ill comliiiiation with this it was iii'n>sary to j:ain a ni'in'tiiin ix- tttnsioii, and tin; national ]inrs(MVas opi-iu'd. A roiijili- of thoiisaml Indians wci'i! ilisi-ovcri'd ;:i ilu' irkct ol' I'last Florida — tlm Sfininoli's and .Nlirkii iU sukics. Trti years of" Icrrihli- war, diiriiiir wliirh l(((t,tMM( military riiii;^iaiit,'< and $ir),(M)(l.tl(MI had su]>|ilii'd the material of a State to halaiiee .Miilii- |j:an, hnniuht ahoiit a treaty allowing:: iho.se trilies to remain ammiu tlii! 'iVer.laili i>iiriii'j; this time Indian itiraeies swarmed over the (i /'A, iiiK and ii|ion the ciiniim ri'ial roads In Mexieo ami the nioiinlai llii. Many hundred whiles and iiiniimerahle Indians tell heneath the Imiia- liiiwk. I'roteetioii. military poliee, and reveiijre were denied at \\'a>irnit;- ton Not a dollar was //(■/■<■ disjpo.sahle, lor the.se terrors ufthe wilderiii',>s heljied the [loliey which kept it so. Th e rritiiiit.iiitiiiii ol' Texas was eoiisumnjated Th IS wa.s a mil nil mi' Slate, extendiii'.c the shell of maritime inl'.uenee farther round the conti- nent. I exa.s o'red (U ■l.t.s -some .tllMI.IKI. Ill er jiiihlii lami Were s|iecious]y Idl to her to pay thoin — liOS,IMMI,U(MI of aenv*, hy valuatio 8li(;(l,(IO(l,OI(0, to.jiay 87,(1011,0011 of dehtw! Is it. then, hy chaiiee or hy desi;.'n that the ^reat domain is t O olll! State the source of inijierial revenues and advancement, to another of •t ]•:> xjiress Jaws of C oujircsrt proi luce these ex- povorty and repression trenies. To understand this rijrlitly, let us exaniiiio it. The soil of Missouri is held, until sold, at §1.;^.') per acre hy the central ;:^overnment. At present .?(1(M(,000 iier annum is extracted in siieeic throu'di the land ofliei;s. Thii.s are we in ipoverished. Two-thirds of our soil is withheld from State taxa- tion. .\> real estate is the suhslaiitial source of Statt: revi eiiue, no pu 77/ a; iwr/yir umi.wa r. 147 »'-cnii(t( (I lor |,i, raee n-ss (lcvclii|M.,| i(s(.|c lie l)fViiiii| ill,' .^|j5. 'If* lllr Tarili,-. ('mill i||(. .>|i»,,iiii to I'll M|M.|| suil w||i,.|| 'i" white III. Ill i;,,.. 'I'll" ill-Ill^', its ,|„ti,,, II tin- line lu lM\,,|„.t In fflK-i- ;,i|(i>,s lli^ I "I' J?>^.'»,()(Hl,()(»o was ■ 111'' use (if the lioli- pilll :i iiuiiifiiiii ex- "t'lllClUS:||„i ||„||;„„ Niiiiimli'waiKl .Mickii- II niilitarv r>iiiL;r,iiils tf In li.llillicc Mitlii- '» rciiiiiiii iiiii.,i|M ill,. rillcil riVcr till' (I'inif anil till' iiiiiiiniMiii.'s. I lii'iicatli tlic tiiiiiii- • tlciiiwl at Wa.sliiiiir. •i>rs 111' tile wildtTiicss riiis wa.i a iiiiniilinr liiT niiiiid till' niiiii- ■ piililic lands wiiv acii^s, liy vaiiialidii t domain is ti^ t<\w ipnt, to aiitiilirr .if I'liidiicr llirsc (x- e soil of .Missouri is 'iinicnt. At prcKi'nt 1' land (ifliccs. Thus 'Id I'roiii Slate taxa- ! rovcnui', no imliliu i'!iti'r|iris4's, lii:;li\vavs am nil p'olo^rifal surveys, im internal iiii|iruvi>iiH-iil», not evi-n I l.ri.k res. are jmssilile in .'lissoiin Mi (liir insi;rnitieant State and eoiinty revenues fall with <tn«>n>us veiirht uiHiM li'ss than one-third of the '_rlelie lands. ii|Hin |MTx>n:il [>n>|«Tlv. :iihI lireiises. The ilisastMiis wreek siiH'eri'd !>} .Mi.'vi.s.-iiiiii, Illinui*. and <'tlur new Stiiti's is jiroof enou^di of ilii.s. jli.w is this n'verst'd in Tc.vxs? An immense domain fill.- her tn-si.Miry — she ta.ves and sells for ta.xes at will — unlimited enilit and nr««iun-«-<» ill' her to enlist riii't the i^i'eatest Works, witlmul daiiu'er. |{v r«-<iiteiii<,; iiiv am 1 u'raduatiii': the jirieeof luiids, she invites fortli tlii>:iurieiiliuri>t> oftiur States, and Warps |)i'o;:re.ss towards llie(iulf. Un tlie |ile<lt:« ••(' her puMic lands she may herself almie |iroeure means to eniiotruet a niilnad !<■ the Paiilii -Vero.ss the western frontier is uiii>l>siruete<l :iev»-^« to lh< 8,111)11,111(1) of Mexieans ! Il'.^/f //t enmiiieree. then, wallitl in :iiid nuidi jiiraey in Missouri, crushed and |iei-seeut«'d mill *t miirratc ht-iiiv to TfXsi Airain, war with .Me.\i(ii ainse. This was a land war of aniii<-s. U- tweeii nations haviiiir :i eunimitn frontier of many thousand niil<-s. A siiij.de Ameriean army of ill), 1)01) eavalry uinl !lyin;r artillery. niari-hin<; hy the iiiajrniKeeiit roiid from Fort Ij4>jiven worth, {ta-ssin;; Ky the ::7i>sit laldc* laiiil- !' ''m . Iiy i.f .^Il•xieo. and sultsistinir tlu-ir animals of I"-*! and transportation u|ioii the pa.stiires, would have eoni|Uen-<l and held all llie .Me.xieaii St;ites in eijrhteeti months. Flirty millions of expenditure would have hrou<:ht ii^-aei- on our <i«rn ilii'tatioii — trre:rl roads fur eoiiinieree would have Ix-eii estalili«he«l fon*v«-r. and the disliiirsemeiits returned to us in the ledetj territury. A war thus tTiinomifiif/i/ eondiicted. liowever. would have o|k'IkiI the aveiiue and jilaiiled eeliti..! States to the new seahoard. Hut fleets of lmis|iorls must plow the (iiilf. and the niariliiiie ."^tatt-s of ,/iiriiitii and Sirrrii Mmlri- extend to einliraee Tampim. < Mie huiidre*! thousand soldiei-s were sent to the impnutiealile eiiinine«- hy Sahilhi and Piitosi — one hundred millions exjiended upon this army, whieh. si.iiriialiii'.: upiiii the wateix of the Hio (Jraiide. never pass*-)! iM-ynrwl them: for Saltillo is upon an affluent <if the Itio (iraiide. and ••nly -■*** mih-s from its main hank. Thus was pioflij^ately re-inaeted tlie •Irutua of the State of Florida. The niiirltinir pof in/ hhuth tlie doiiltle ohjeet of Mocking np the inte- rior, and extendinir the sealmard in a shell around th«' ointinent. For this the navy is enormously iiureased and the army enutseulate"!. F'nter- jirisis in tlie mi/nil States Jire marred, hut thoe<€ of the ttahntnl siis- tained directly from the National Treasury. Of this let us lake a retvnl illustration. o^if IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 m iiiiiM 1^' 2.2 I.I Hi u& 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■• 6" ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 * m M ^^ ,%° MP.. ,0 % <? # &»/ d \ I'lr ii ,,,;i| ^M■'■"' l!' ill: I '! 1 i 148 M'PEXDIX. A jirnpn,.iti(m was sulmiittcd to tlu: Twi'iity-iiiiitli Coiijrros.-, early in its first session (1845— Kl) to carry omvanl to tlio coast of California and Oregon, and to Santa Fo, iiioiitJili/, tlu; mail wliidi comes tri-woekly to onr city of Indci^endcnco. A law antliori/.in<i' the I'ostnnistcr-Genoral to let tlie contract for such an extended mail-route to the lowest bidder, in the ordinary way, was alone required. Contractors were ready to execute the whole undertakinj; for S')<>,<MI(I jier annum, carryinir the mails in fiftctn d(i)js, making the time from ocean to ocean tirriity-fn-f days. This proposition, admirahle for its practicahility, its economy in time and cost, was belabored by orators and supjjressed. To this hour all ovcr- hind mails are prohibited b}' statute. At this same session of this same Congress, and under tlie prom])tinus of these orators, the government was, liy statute, made tlic partner with ship-building companies of New York City. To construct four mail steamers, the sum of 81,250,(100 was ndvniiccd to these companies, to whom was also given the monojioly of future government transportation for ten j-ears. The transportation of oc?' mails through the Isthmus is confided to the Spnninnh of New Granada ! All this enormous expenditure lias pro- duced at the end of four years, an uncertain monthly mail, outs'ule of our country : and exposed to the hostilities of tlie whole world : wliich trav- erses 9000 miles of sterile ocean in fifty days ! In the interval the con- ti'iicts have been doubled in amount by doubling the size and cost of the ships. It is a condition of these contracts that these " mail steamers" may Iie apjiraised and purclias(id by government fir tlie navy. Thus is the navy ehindesthieli/ increased by eight or a dozen war steamers. Thus, whilst we may transport the domestic mails between our distant jieojile and seaiioards through the heart of our territories, every inch u|ioii our own soil, and 1000 miles iroiii any I'oreign foe or frontier — whilst this can be done and is offered to be done, li'y our citizens, for jirices at which the mails will yield remunerating revenues — whilst this admits of an in- crease to daily mails at any time, and a reduction of time to one-half — wiiilst this allows of innumerable way mails, telegraphs, and the most intimate dnniestic intercourse — involves neither increase of military force nor expenditures }iy sea or land, and avoids the jxissibility of foreign inter- ference or molestation — opening roads and crowding them with ]iopulation and settlements — concentiating to the seaport where it ri'aches the Pacific, the American shijipiiig an<l business on that ocean, at once creating a great American em]ioriuni. Instead of ail this, which is sensible .iiid natural, and understood by our THE PACIFIC RAIL WAY. U9 til CV)ii<nvs>, ciirly ill its c'Dii.st of t'alifiinii;! jinj icli fonu's tri-wooklv tu ct tlio coiitriict for such tlio (ii'tliiiiiry w;iy. wiis tlio wlidk' iiiHlcrtiikliiir iftiin ddijs, iiiiikiiiy tliu ity, its cc'OHoniy in time To tliis hour till ovcr- 1 iiii(h'r the proni]itiiii;s iiiiido the j)artn('r with To construct four iiniil to tlii'sc companies, to rcrnnicnt tninsportatinn thnius is confided to the s expenditure lias pro- thly mail, oiifsfur of our hole world : wliicli trav- In the interval tlie coii- the size and cost of the : these " mail steamers" for tlie navy. Thus is en war steamers, laiis between our distant ritories, every inch ujion or frontier — whilst this ;ens. f(*r jiriccs at which st this admits of an iii- II of time to one-halC — Icjiraphs, and the most icrease of Tiiilitary force •sihility of ioreii:!) iiiter- 1,1: them with jiopuiatioii •e it ri'aches the Pacific, at once creating a great , and understood by our people, whoso cirnliiKif n'l/Iif it is to have the circulation of thi'ir domestic thoughts and business tlirouuh home channels which are short, safe, and cxpci litioiis Yes. instead of this, we are ta.xeil mill ions. to hi ive our letters sent 'JOdU miles in fifty days, under the ecpiator, by sea, tliroiit;h i'divimi nations: exposed to delay, dangers, and destruction in t'Very form, ruffliiiii' the jealousies of rival nations, and exposed to their cannon — and all this to fill the maws of maritime speculators and political ambition. Such are a tew examples of a Jiolicy hourly influencinu our u'lorious State for weal or woe, whoso efloct upon you, my fellow-citizens, fills mo with the most puzzling' astonishment. You drop your own interests with facility when fold they are difficult and inexjiedient, ami stand at ease, whilst rival enterjirises, planned to destroy yuu, and a thousand times more difficult, costly, and faiieifid, are finished comjiletely ! Mr. Chairman, elo(|uenec is not nurtured in the depths of the silent wikloriiess, and t/iirr have I jiassed my youth. J)id [ possess tho.sc graces of language and ])olished elocution, which many youths, my cotem[)o- raries, trained in the court.s and halls of legislation, ought to do, then should my voice .sound, like the nipinl beat on .John do Zitzka's skin, into every cabin of our glorious State; to call forth her citizens, and, roused from their ignoble ajiathy, animate them to resume their stolen rights and vindicate their crippled honor. l-'or this a))atliy is, towards tliis our State and our nation, the crime of the sentinel slumbering on his post. The configuration of the Sierra Madre {the Mothir Mountdin of the wofhl) is transceudently massive and sublime. Rising from a. base- ment whose roots spread out two thousand miles and more ; its crest splits almost centrally the Xorthorn continent, and divides its waters to the two oceans. Xovcl terms have been introduced to define its characteristics. Mrxn, expresses the level plateaux of its summits, Cdnon, the gorges rent in its slopes by the descending rivers. Bute, the conical mountains isolated and trimmed into synunetrical ])eaks by atmospheric corrosion. Everybody has seen the card-houses built by children in the nursery. Suppose three of these in a row, having a seciuid sfiu'v over the ctMitn^: this toy familiarly delineates a transverse section of the Sierra ^Fadre. This upper story represents the central. ]irimary mesa of the Cordillera — its .summit a great plain, descending on both flanks by a perpendicular wall of 6000 feet to the level of the xeco)iil Diexn or stei>pe. Towards the wext the second mesa fills the whole space to the Andes, who.se farther side descends abrn])tly to the tide-level of the Pacific. This is again what has been before described at length as the (^iHE.\T Tahle 150 .■1 Pi'Kxnix. ' I'll I'll 3* ^'1 V' '! Lands. But towarJ.s tlio Ktaf, tlio .second ?«ts« forms a piedmont, rent into peaks by tlie tis.sures of innunievable streams. Tliis piedmont, ealled \>y us the lilaek Ilills, masks the front of tlie ■Sierra Madre, from end to end. So completely is it torn and rent by the perplexity of water-eour.ses, that patches alone are left to define tlie orij;i- nal idateau. These are the eastern envelope of the basin of the Yellow- stiine, the Jiaramie plain (between the I'lattes), the llatone, and the Llaun Estaeado of Texas. Beneath this tlie fliinl nicsti (or t-tej)pe), is that superlative renion, tlic Great rKAiuiK Plains, who.se gentle sIojh' forms a glacis to the Gulf through Texas: and in front to the trough formed by the Mississippi River I'rom Itasca Jiake to the IJalize. Neither are the other three basins of the St. Lawrence, Hudson Bay, and Athaba.sca anything else but pro- longations of this siima gliii IK, sloping towards the east and north. It is this vastness of geographical configuration which leads the (/Iniire of the engineer with unerring certainty to that line of natural grades from ocean to ocean, the discovery of which mankind now awaits with the keen- est curiosity, and along which the American nation is resolved to construct the consummate work of art — fJie Asinfic mid Eiimpiiiii Rm'fiai//. Advanciu"- north alonji' the comb of the Sierra ^ladre from below 31exico, you find at the sources of the Platte (Sweetwater) a wide gap, where, tlie liigh me.sa suddenly giving out for the sjiace of forty miles, the second mesa jtasses through from east to west, the continued water- ridge being scarctdy perceptible among its gentle undulations. This is the SoiTli Pas.s. It is so named as being the lufinf soiifJicni pass to ivhich you mav ascend by an affluent of the Atlantic and step immediately over on to a stream descending directly to the Pacific. This name is as ancient as the pass itself Into it concentrate the great trails of the buffalo, geographers and road makers by instinct, before the coming of man. The Indian, the Mexican. and the American, succcs.sors of one another, liave not improved or de- fiected from the instincts of the buffalo, nor will they whilst the moun- tains last in their j)resent inisliattered bulk. The South Pass has a towering grandeur, in keeping with the rivers between which it i.s the avenue (the Missouri, the Colorado, and the Columbia), all of which, issuing from the wall of the "Wind Biver Moun- tain, come out of it on to the second mesa, (if tlir xmiir /rrrl, and into which they immediately commence burrowing their canons of descent to the seas. Ifin, thru, is the route, the Soiifhrni route, of the National Railroad, ascending by the water-grade of the I'latte on to the top of the second |< forms a piedmont, rent iiiii.sk.s tho fn.iit of tho it t(ini and wm hy the [' li'f't to define tin; origi- the I)a.siii of tl„. Yell„w. le llatone, and the Lhniu It superlative r('ni„i,, d^, liiis a glacis to tiu! (;„|f Jined by the iMisf^isMj.],! 1-0 the other three basins :i iinytliino- else but pro- east and north, wliieh leads the yA,,,,-, •■ of natural lirades fr^m >\v awa,its M'itli the keeii- 1 is resolved to construct iropnin Rtiihaii/. ii-ra 3Iadre frt)in below f^wectwater) a wide jm]), lie sjMce of forty miles, ■'t, the continued water- mdulations. "■i"M' the mimt southern the Atlantic and .^tcj. ly to the Pacific. This ». geofi-raphers and ro;ul I! Indian, the lAIcxican, L' not inij)rovcd or dc- tliey whil.st the mouii- 'ci)in,u- with the rivers he Colorado, and the 10 Wind Iliver ^foun- '' •'"'»'<■ fn-ej, and into !• canon.s of descent to lie National Kailroad. he toj) of the second THE PACIFIC RAILWAY. 151 iiiesii. wliere it forms the summit, following the level of this mesa alonjj tJic b;isi' of the hii:h mesa, to the Columbia (Snake lliver), anil descend- ing its water-j:rade clear out to the Pacific. Tlic distance from tlie Platte to the Columbia has not been accu- rately ascertained, though by the present wauoii road, which crosses a corner of the Salt IJasin, it is less than iJdO miles. Here is that double inclined jilane, to find which has been the first essential l.i every work of art existinn- in the Avorld. There is none south of this, because everywhere the basins of tlie Talile Lands oveilap and envelop one another, so that the jia.^ses h'ad merely from one of the.se into another : nor are there any natural tunnels through the jirecipitous walls of the Andes, and between the basins. The Columbia, running across the Table Lands from east to west, dis- tributes the descent of 8500 feet, equally alonj^' its course of 1200 miles, and tunnels the ureal ranges of Blue ]M(mntains and the Andes. This whole course of the river is a continuity of rapids having three falls — the American Falls of iJO feet at Portneuf, the Salmon Palls of 45 feet, 200 miles below, and tho Chuttes of 12 feet, near the Dalles. This rivi'r-jirade is then as rapiil as the descent to be accompli.slied will admit of; for, distributed into loni; levt'ls and steep t;rades, it would im- mensely impair the utility of the whole work, and I'atally impede trans- portation. The jiivat Colorado runs diagonally across the Taulk Lan'D.s, debouch- ing into the Gulf of California ; but ha.s its course and those of its <;reat affluents, parallel with the mountain ranges, which are scored with un- fathonied canons, perjtiexing the traveller with an infinity of impassable ridues, among which the water-courses are cmbowelled. North of the South Pass, however, exist many single passes where the higher brandies of the Missouri and Columbia interlock. These circui- tous routes have all the same termini as that of the South Pa.ss, for tliey also descend the same two rivers to the seas. Thus between the South Pass and the Isthmus of Tehuantepec there exists no railroad route, owing to the longitudinal eourees of the rivers, the comjilexity of the basins, and the double barrier of prinutry mountain chains. To the north, other passes exist, which future generations may develop, anil ou which navitration may be used for four-fifths of the whole dis- tance. True il is that i>otential fashion now exalts the little maritime busiii of California, San Francisco Bay, into the haven of hope and fortune of tho new seaboard, whilst the sublime basin of the Columbia, and its magnificent ricer harbor, are banished from public favor. The basin of Sau Francisco is small, tropical in climate, sterile, and tho ,LLl.,Li ,, ,..,,. fli II :i 1 'i:«- 152 APPEXDIX. most isolated spot, to ruiicli J'nmi tin; intiTior, on the whole eoust of the Paeifie. No great river gives it access to the 3Iississijij)i Valley, I'rom wliieli it is cut oft' by the basins nl' the Salt Lake, the Colorado, aiul the Del Norte, overlapjiiiig each other. The Columbia is larger than tlie Danube, and eijual to the Ganges. In size, climate, agricultural excellence, capacity for ])opulatiou, and its wim- derful circular configuration, the basin of the Columbia surpasses Imtii of these others. The mouth of the Columbia, a saliint point ui)on the open '-oast, more thau any other central and convenient to the whole North Pacilic and Asia, is in size, depth of water, safety and I'acility of ingress or egress, equal to San Francisco. As the mouth of the greatest river descending from our continent into tlie Pacific, it is iniinitely before it. It is eight degrees south of Liverpool, having the climate of Bordeaux, Marseilles, or Savannah. Why is not the deep sea navigation concentrated at Norfolk or Uamp- ton lloads, the finest harbor of the whole Atlantic? Why rather is it found at New York and New Orleans, accessible only through every dan- ger that can menace shijtping? Why, because the former is the outlet of the basin of the St. Lawrence, the latter of the Mississippi. The ship- ping of commerce goes to where cargoes can be found. Loss than iiftyyearsago,/tM7</o;t pronounced the little ravines of James River and the Connecticut the proud spots of America, and held tlie great uninhabitable wastes of the Mississijipi and its uiuuicii/atvd streams as worthy only to balance axljixh ! This same splenetic spirit o( /iin/iion now manufactures a similarly ridiculous misdirection for the energy of the pioneers, by setting up what the geologist would call a '' pot-hole of the Andes," ;■ gainst the grand Columbia. Commerce, provident like every other department of industry, makes her.sclf harbo" with charts, pilots, buoys, and beacons. The shallowest chauviel of the Columbia has thirty-five feet water — the deepest of New York, twenty-nine. Climate distinctly controls the migrations of the human race, which has steadily adhered to an hothermnl lino around the world. The extremely mild climate of our Western seaboard is only the conseciuenee of tlie same great laws of nature which operate in Western Europe. These are the regular and fixed ordinances of the code of nature, to which the migra- tions of man, in common with the animal, yield an instinctive obedience. Within the torrid zone and up to 30° of the Northern hemi.><phere, blow the tr(nlr iciiKlx and viiriaUcs, constantly from the east and northeast all around the world; but the upi)er halves of elliptical orbits followed by the Tin: PACfF/r n.ML mm y. 153 wiiiil.s lit' ill till- toinperato /(inc. i'nun l!.")^ tn (1(1°, witliin wiiicli tlic winds fluw ((instantly tVoni the wost ani.! soiitliwost all arnuiul tliu world. Tiii-.-c winds ivauli tlu' irrnti rii coasts of America and Eiiroiie alter trav- ersing the expanse of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. Warmed to the same temiierature as tliese oceans, they imjiart again this same mild atmo^,- iilicre to the maritime fronts of tlie continents wliicli receive them. These ■suae winds, passiiiir onward over great extensions of continent of low tem- perature, covered with snow, or Irozen dnring winter, often warped ujiward bv ni'inntain ranges, becoming e.vhausted of tlieir warmth, liave ujxtn the eastern portions of both hemisjiheres an exactly oi)posite efi'ect niion the climate. ll(.'nce the variant temperature of New York and Li.sbon, which face on(! another on the opposite coa.sts of the Atlantic — of IVkin and San Francisco, similarly ojjjxisite uj)on the Pacific. At San Franei.sco and Lisbon the seasons are but modulations of one continuous summer. At New York and Pekin, winter su.spends vegetation during seven months, whilst ice and snow bridge the land and waters. The.se four cities are all do.se njion the same parallel of latitude, the 4Uth degree. It is here manifest how in Asia the masses of population lie? />rIow the -lUth degree, in Europe alutvc, and again (so far) in America, curving downward on the eastern face of our continent, to rise again to the north upon the warm coast of the Pacific. Thus has the zodiac of nations, our own nation similarly witli the rest, pursued a serjnjntine line of hjikiI tiniprnifiiir, ret;iining all around the world similar emj)loyments, similar industrial ]iursuits, similar food and clothing, retjuiring similarity of climate, and recoiling alike from tlie torrid and the arctic zones. The scieiitijic vwii of the nation oppo.se the National Railroad — so did those of Europe persecute (lalileo and Columbus. Science, like the army and nav; , is fed from the national revenues, which HKtritline ])olicy distributes to all that serve its ends. Science is rare ; the spurious ((uackery of science redundant. It is not the scientific doctors of the schools, the bureau.K and military wings of government, that have hewed out tliis republiL'un empire from tlie wilderness. This has been reared by the genuine lieroism and sublime instincts of i\\ii ploiuev f/ /'Hi'/, unpaid, unbles.sed, nay, scoflfed and loaded with burdens by government and its swarm of dependents. To bridle proures.s has lieen the pelicy of thirty years. To keep the people out of the wilderness. T(.( refuse Territorial governments, and prevent Territories from becoming States. At this moment acicntljic men are especially busy di.stracting us with il-iii liiljilil{ ii'lii^jiiiij >i% i lo4 APPEXDIX. iimltitudiiious mutes niul invented dit^icultios : devised to perplex und scatter the energies of the eitiz.ins : \vli(jse unanimous resolve it is to jiluw open a <rreat eentral trail to the I'acifie. SciiiKi cannot unmake the eternal ordinanees f)f nature, and reset the univei-ie to suit local fancies and idle fashion. It la the humble dut}- of science to investigate nature im she /,s, and promulgate the truths discuver- al)l(! for ihe guidance o. governments and men. The experience gained from the great works eonstrueted by the la.st generation, in digging through the Alleghanies routes for commerce to the Atlantic, .settles for us the rules that shall guide «s across the Sierra Madre to the Pacific. In 1S18 the State of New York cut through the low and narrow ridgo between Home and Syracuse, the former on an affluent of tlie Iludson, the latter of Lake Ontario. Thus the first exj)enditures, perforating the dividing mountain, let through that infant commerce, which in thirty years has urown to such a grandeur of (|uantity and j)rofit, tliat this great thoroughfare is itself ((uadrupled in capacity and lengthened out to .Mon- treal, to Bo.ston, to New York City, and into Peimsylvania, towards the east. WrsfwitriL it reaches through Ohio and Indiana to the Ohio River : and by the Illinois and AV isconsin Rivers to the Missouri and ^Mississippi. What the single State of New I'ork, of 1,2(1(1,(100 population, acconi- plished by her own intrinsic braver and resources, undismayed l)y ridicule and unappalled by the then expt^' nnental character of .such works in a rc.piiltHc and upon our conl'ncnt: — just such a work now invites the national bravery, power, a-.d wealth of this iiiiptritd irpiiUic : namely, to lay, over the dividing barrier of the Sierra Madre, along the floor of its natural tunnel at the South Pass, fin iron piithn:ii/y : whicli, descend- ing the grades of the Platte and Columbia to the highest p(jints of navi- gation, shall let through the first infant stream of that supreme Orinital commerce, whose annually expanding flood will, during our generation, elongatti its arms and fingers through all the States and to every harbor of the two seaboards ! Climate : the configuration of the continent : the location of our States and people : the isothermal line of progress : the high latitudes of the ultra- oceanic nations here locate the " National Railroad." The clinidte is here most favorable : because the wliole region from the Missouri to the Colum- bia, far removed from any ocean, is so dry as to be free from rains in summer and snoics in winter. Thus the snows within the South Pass itself are not so deep as upon the St. Lawrence, or between J}o.stoii and Bufi'alo. Upou the Wind River m^ 'i: THE PAP/FIC RAILWAY. 155 (loviseil to iicrplcx am] inimous resolve it is to t of natuiv, iiiid reset the is the humble duty of ate tlie trutlis discover- construeted l)y the last routes for euunucrei! to lide Its aeross the Sierra he low and narrow riduo affluent of the Hudson, ijienditureH, perforating ninieree, whieh in thirty nd i)rofit, that this great ■ngtliencd out to 3I()n- nnsylvania, towards the to theOliio River: and Iniri and ^Fississipjii. ,'M)0 ])opulation, aeeom- , undismayed by ridicule ter of sueh works in a work now invites the cn'id iTpiihlic : namely, adre, along the floor of hiriii/ : whieh, descend- highest points of navi- ' that supreme Orlnikd during our generation, tes and to every harbor e location of our States ;h latitudes of the ultra- The climtite is liere ^lissouri to the Colum- be free from rains in re not so deep as upon Upou the AViud lliver Mouutaiu tliere is no snow in summer, at an altitude where it is perpetual oil the Andes beneath tlie eijuatur and near the ocean ! On the Talile Lands rain and snow are so rare that they may be said never to occur. This obstruction, then, stated on theory to be fatal, has no cxiste'ice — whilst this route, pursuing great rivers: all the way, has abun- dance of water. Mineral coal is abundant from end to end. Ijumber ami ruck intinite in quantity and convenient in jiosition. It is, then, I repeat, thmugli the heart of our Territories, our popula- tion, our States, our farms and liabitations, that we need this broad current of commerce. Where passengei-s and cargo may, at any time or place, embark ujion or leave the vehicles of transportation. It is foul treason to banish it from the land : from among the people : to force it on to the barren ocean : outside of society : tlirough foreign nations: into the torrid heats and along ;• litary circuitous routes, im- prisoned for months in great ships. This central railroad is an essential domestic institution: more power- ful and permanent than law, or popidar con.sent: to thoroughly complete the great systems of fluvial arteries which fraternize us into one people : to bind the two seaboards to this one nation, like ears to the human head: to radicate the foundations of the I'nion so broad and deep, and render its structure so solid, tliat no possible force or stratagem can shake its permanence : and to secure such scope and space to progress, that pros- perity and equality shall never be impaired or chafe for want of room. What, sirs, are these pojmlous empires of .iapan and China, now be- come our neighboio? They are the most ancient, the most highly civil- ized, the most polLshed of the earth. It was from Sinim (China) that the Jiulean king Solomon imported the architects, the mechanics, the furnit.ire of his gorgeous temple. Ifi iirr. the Tyrians brought tapestry, carpets, shawls of wool, cotton and silk fabrics, wares of jwrcelain and metals, dyes, gums, and spices, jewels poli.shed and .set. Jlciice, came the climax of all human inventions, lettei's <tnd Jiyiars, which fix language and numbers, making them eternal : astronomy, arith- metic, algebra, deeimiUs, chemistry, printing, navigation, agriculture, and horticulture. All the.se, erroneou.sly ascribed as the inventions of the Arabs or to the exiles of Con.stantinople. who brought them into Western Europe, are the creations of Oriental genius and study. Tea. sugar: the peach produced I'nim the wild almond: the orange from the sour lime : the apjile from the crab : the fruits : the flowers : the vegetables of cur gardens, are the crtationn of Chinese horticiiUiiral !n:iciu:e. ' ffl I iWil li 15(i M'I'h'XOIX. The horse, cnttli', the swiiic iiiid jMiultry df our farms, conie to us fmiu tlu'uci'. Tlic cultiiro III" till' ccrciil iiraiiis, wli^at, rice, liarlcy lircail. wvu' the olive ami silk, liavf ronic to us IVoin the laithcst Orient. !/< im ulso caiiio guiipowiler, the inaij;noti(.; needle, and (iiicmiel. Tht; jialnts, varnish, and tools of the art have come, and the reniedius used in pliarinacy. Oar liistorie records, ciininniiiuii/ with the arrival of ])roL;res^i\e civil- ization at the extremity of the .Mediterranean, relate IVoni traditiim tin; anti(juc emjiire of Bacchus and the relijrion of Zoroaster u]ion the (lanjjcs and tlio Indus. The Chaldeans of Mu; Persian Sea followed. I'Ircts came from the extreme Ortmt into the IJi ii'j;al Sea, the Pcirsian Gulf, and the lied Sea ; and caravans ovcrlai. i hy the Uxus and tho Caspian lirouuiit tlio camel, the horse, cuttle, manufactured wool, silks, cotton, and metals, aj;riculture, commerce, and coin. Enijii exjiandinj^ westward along the Ganges, the Kuiihrates. and the Nile, reached to the Mediterranean and Kuxine. From Egypt, I'Ikc- nicia, and Colchis (Trehisond), .si)rang European Greece. Sudi as Progress is to-day, the same has it been for ten thousand years. It is the stream of the luiman race flowing from the cost to tlw mxt. im- pelled by the same divine instinct that pervades creation. 15y this track comes tlie sun diurnally to cheer the world. Thus come the tides of men and of the waters: learning: law: religion: the plague: the smallpox ■ and the cholera. The sources of life and happiness — the pestilence that saddens both. These empires of which we have spoken have left upon the ground tluy occupied their names, political society, their organized systems of gov- ernment and religion. Does ncjt society, then, once founded beconu! perennial ? It is within a belt of the earth straddling the -lOth degree of north latitude that the greatest mass of land surrounds the world, and where the continents most nearly aiijirouch. Within this belt (from J](l° to 50°) four-fifths of the human race is assembled, and here the civilized nations, of whom we ])osse.ss any history, have succeeded one another, connnencing at the farthest extremity uf Asia, and forming a zodiac towards the setting sun. This succession has flowed onward in an even course, undulating along an isothermal line, until in our time the ring is about to close around the earth's circumference, by the arrival of the American nation on the coast of the Pacific, which looks over on to Asia. In this age and in this march of human race, as elsewhere: tin; bold, energetic, and indomitable : the picked spirits of the world lead the van ; and such is the piuuccr nrwij. What means that expression in the Declaration of Independence, "life. mtik '• flinns, coiiiL" to us fiiiin I'icf, l.iulcy l.iviid. wi,,,,^ ifst Oriciii. //,.„,., .||,y Tlic jiaiiits, Vinnisli, iiscfl ill ])liann.icv. iviil of i.roi;rf.-*si\v civil- ■liiti; iruiii traditiiiM ih,. niiistcr ii|ioii tlic(;;iiiL:,..s II Si';i fiillmvi'd. Klirts 1, tlio I'crsiiin CJiiir. iiinl "III tho Casjiiaii lin.ii-lit ilks, cotton, and nictals, :»'«, tlu; Kiiitliratcs. and ic. From Ku3]it, I'lia'- ( i rci'co. fur trn thousand years, tllc rant to tin- vcat. m- fivation. ]}y this truck IS come the tides of men Jihigue: the snialliiox- less — the i)estilcuee that ft upon the ground tlicy ;:inized systems of uov- onco founded become Idling the 40tli degree urrounds the workl, and of tlie liuman race is we possess any liistory. ! fartliest extremity of n. ourse, undulating along out to elose around tlie can nation on the coast IS elsewhere : tlie bold, he world lead the van ; :)f Independence, "life, Tin: i:\rif ir iiMi. ir.i )', 157 lilicrty, ikI ihr pursuit <if /Kippinisa" .' What tuouulit tlie Civalii r> to Viri;inia in 1(!0S? It was "the pursuit of lia|ipinc>s." Wiiat animated the Pilgrims to endure the rigors of I'lyinoutli lloci; ? ^VIly, "tlie pur- laillolis IiIuIIL:!!!'' il Miit 111' liappiness." What sought Boone and liis coinp; llii)ii-and miles into tlie wilderness? 1'his same ••pursuit of happiness. Wliiit secret motives now brings foreigners to our shon cs, ami imiieis our ■iti/eiis onward to tlic I'acitie? Again, it is " the jmrsuii of liappi- ness. /'/•"i/i'isn, tlien, is one of the immortal KKillTS saiictilied in the Charter liberty. AVliy, then, is advent into the wildc -the field lit human liner for the diseontent4)d, the oppre.ssed, the needy, tlu; restless, the ambitious, and tli(^ virtuous, thus closed by a )iolicy at once sinister, nefarious, and uiiroiistifutional ? I'lHpiiet for our sacred I'iiion is this present time, when political ]Hiwer, about to cross the Alleglianies, sec-saws on their crests, counting the d.ays that precede her eternal transit over them I It is by the rapid propagation of new States: tlu' immediate occupation (if the broad platform of the continent : tin; aggregation of the I'acitie Ocean and Asiatic commerce : that impiiiitude will be swalloweil up. and the murniurs of discontent lost in the onward siiiiinl of advancement. Pisioiitcnt, distanced, will die out. The immense wants of the Pacific will draw oil', over the Western out- lets, the over-teeming crojw of the Mississippi \'alley. Thus will the present seaboard States resume again their once ] rotitable monopoly of the Kuropean market, relieved from the competition of the interior Stat.'S. The cotton and rice; culture of (leorgia and the Carolinas will revive. The tobacco of Virginia ami .Maryland will again alone reach Europe. Ships withdrawn from the Xorthern States to the Pacific, will regenerate tile noble liiisiness of nautical construction in New Kngland and \ew York. The cstabli.xhed domestic manufactures of clothing ami metals will find, in our great home (extension, that protection which they in vain seek to create by uncipial legislation, nocuous and impracticable in our present incomplete and unbalanced geographical finni. Thus calmly weighed and liberally ajipreciated, does this great Central Railroad mini,ster to the interests and invite the advocacy and co-opera- tion of every section of our territory, and every citizen of our coinmou countrv. The exelu.sion of foreigners from Japan, China, and Cochin China not then an institution of barbarism, but a domestic tariff of protection. IS i ; • ;i .♦■T iH 168 AI'I'ESin.S. ■1* It is (lo-iuiicil. like tlic ('iiiiiliiiiiitiun of Cliristiim iiiidoiis ii'jainst jiinicy, to ]iriit<'ct llii'ir nutiiiiijility ami riccdiuii iiuain^t tlin.si' licrcr inilitmy nations (if Nuktiimkn, wlio for twenty (cntiirit's liavo rent Kuinj aim Wcstoni Asia with jHTiK'tual inassai rr : wlio ransai k all tlic seas in ilnir war-sliiji.s : stoic tlic rucks of tlic ocean witli niiinitions of war : cni>li tlic millions of India witli cannon and tlic liavonct ; ]ilinulcr Africa of a niillinn iiiinnall) of licr swarthy cdiihtrcn to rot in foreij;n slavery: and cmh externiiiii.te one another in deadly strife when they meet anionu the ;iii- ti]iodes. in the solitudes of the Southern Ocean. When, however, utir di]ploinacy shall receive a wise direction — when our fuolisli nepotism to Kurojit; sliall lie run out — when men ol' sense. f<ueh as Franklin was of old, shall sail over from Astoria to I'ekin. ami there converse, with tlii' Oiiiiilnl Cuiirt. of Re|iuli]ican America as she is — when her civic jirowth and ]iacifie |policy shall he there understood — when the central position . four continent slndl be known; formiiii: the avenue for trade and harrier apiinst war with the Northmen of Kuropc — tlien will mutual confidence hetween these, the oldest and youniicst of the human fiimily, f/ic i.rtnrhits nut. show itself in the graces of a free commerce, and the ties of an harmonious fraternity. It is for you especially, jieople of Missouri, to .seek tlic.se new relations with the Oriental peojile, with the zeal of faith and the fixed will oi' con- viction. It is arch mockery for us to he duped by the flijipatit caricatures of these ancient and ]iolish(;d Asiatics: invented by British envy to mislead us, and fed out to us by the British press to cloak sinister designs of suh' jugation and world-wide plunder. Rather let us take alarm at the tone and source of this monstrous flood of calumny : and know that a direct inspection for ourselves will reveal to us. in Asia, emjiires of people illustrious for their anti(jue civilization : ren- dered enduring and perfect by political eijuality. and wi.se civic institutions, winnowed and renovated during fifty centuries of uninterruiited exiieii- dice — among whom the science and art of war. indt'cd, are decayed from long disuse: but all iiseful sciences liighly perfected — with whom govern- ment has reached the mildest form of patriarchal desjiotism, eliminatiiiir political priestcraft and the disseminated tyrannj' of a patrician order — "who have so admirably refined and perfected municipal government and police that 4(1(1, 0(10, 0(H) of population (double that of all Europe) are united under one harmonious political system in concord and trainiuillity. It is among the.se swarming hives of ingenious people that we will find markets on a s:ale commensurate with our own jirolific industry. This is not now the case in Europe. The Europeans are in all tliini;.': IS Tin: I'M'iiir UMi.WA y. \Wd lin>tl;ill IIMfM.llS ;|u,,|,„t hin>t lll.,>r(i,,v,. „,ilit;,rv Y 'i"vc ivht K„r,,j ,„„', 'SM'k all til.. s,,i.s in ,1,,,;,. jiitiuiis ..Cwiir: cnoj, ,1,,, JlMiHlcrAfi-i,„.,Ci, n,iili„„ |i<'i-ii slavny: aii.l rv,,, ]Il<'y meet ailKMl- tlir ,i,|. a wis.. (lirocti..!!— wluii lit— when nu'ii of s..ns.., I" A.st..na fo I>,.ki„. ,„„| ililiciin Anicri(.a as sli.. is I ''<• lliiTt^ undcist,,,,.!— bo kn.iwii: fiirmiiiir tin. '■ Nortlmion ..f I-;iin,|„.__ "Idi'st anil }-.,iiiin,.,.f „f '' ill tlie graces of a free ■'*i'ek these new r<.lati..iis md til.; fixed will ofeon- " flippant caricatures .if : Britisli envy t.i misl. ad k sinister designs ..f sul,. )f this monstrous fl.iod.,f irs..Ive.s will reveal to iis. iiti.jue civilizati.in : reii- d wise civic instituti.pns. f uninterrupted exjieii- id.'ed, are de..aje.| fnmi 'd — with whom govern- despotism, eliminatinL' of a patrician order — licijial government and l>at of all Eurojie) are )ncord and tran.juillity. 'oojile that we will fiii.I 'liiie industry, jieans are in all tliin-s OP! rivals and conipetit.irs. Ar.. we ai;iicultur!' 's? So are th. y. and wall oTour conipetiiion witli corn-law tariff*. Are miners an.l iiianii- I'aeturcrs ? So arc they, and overtop us Ity abundance of labor and capi- tul. Are we sliip-.iwn.'rs? So are thi.y. liaving an immense marine cheaply navigated. They con. jUer and colonize foreign eountri.'s. . if whose trade they make monop.ilies ! They are northern nations, whos.. clothing is of wool and flax, consuming a very limited amount of cotton. What they take fr.im us is to manufacture for exportation, Tobacco is ]iiiiliiliit...l — h.;mp and metals tht.y exp.irt. The p.ipulatimi of Kurope is l.'(ir),(MI(l.()(H)_of the Atlantic all roun.l, 2r):j,(i'MI,(M)(l. On the Pacific, in front of us, are 4l)0,()0(),000 people of the tr.ipics — Polynesians, South Americans, Soutli.Tn Asiatics — among wliom wli.'at is not cultivated, and animal f.jo.l, other than fish and jmuliry, very scarce. Their clotliing is exclusively cloth of cotton, grass, an.l silk. Opium is excessively used among them. Rice, the plantain, lianana, and fruits are their unsubstantial diet. Here, then, will be the market for raw and manufactured c.itton. Ifere our rank manufactured t.jbacco will substitute itself f.ir opium. Here our substantial articles of food — flour, meats, and fish — will find purcha.sers in all who eat. Lead and hemp will be .sold. In return will come to us groceries, spices, teas, coffee, Ku.'iir — porce- lain, Jaf)an ware, furniture, w.)rks in ivory — drugs, jiaints, dyes, medi- cines — beautiful fabrics of silk, .satin, velvet, crapes; nankeens, tlie delicate shawls of Cashmere, tlie carpets of Persia — jewelry, trinkets, and toys — the hemp of Manilla — luscious fruits dried and preserved. Tlie peojile of the Pacific have no marine adapted to cross the great ocean — the carrying to and fro will be in our .ships, and a monopoly to us — sliip-building and navigati.in will occupy our people of the new sea- board, and the metals, lumber, and hemp of the interior find a -.rodigious demand. The population of the Pacific all round exceeds ()45,n()O,(lu0 ! Will not then our people find in this, that certain panacea of ail tlieir wants and wishes, namely, an infinite market of consumption ? Surely this people, which has submitted to the nostrums of political (|uackery: tariffs of protection : banks to make money plenty : home manufactures and systems of internal improvement: all invented to create markets at home, by changing our producing agriculturists into consuming opera- tives : but all of which little experiments have produced industrial anarchy and commercial bankruptcy. Surely this people will not hesitate to construct for themselves this great " National Highway," at small comparative cost : and leading as level as a cannon to its blank : to a new ocean, teeming with 045,000,000 of 1 m [GO APPESDIX. people, of WMiits unlimited, and having a genius aetive, intelligent, and cum- mereial ! To efleet tliis, it is only necessary to untraniniel progress IVom the snares and dead-falls of maritime policy. To reopen the legitimate onward trail of the pioiirtr uritnj, and niu- vigorate its march. The cause of the pioneers at this hour pre-eniinonily ditnaii'ljt the undivided energies of Missouri. It is for us tliat the jiiiinecr army is tiotc coiKjuering the vast wilderness that hems in our Liiuiun'rce and blocks the frontier : for us it throws down the iierfiilinus Indian wall: reopens the central trail of advancement so long insidiously closed — and to us, for us, it re-establishes that crowning excellence of position of which hostile policy has for thirty years bereft us. It is not andjition that impels us, citizens of 3Iis.souri. to advance to the advocacy of this great v.ork with our whole unshackled energies — it is high religious duty. Citilra/ to the continent, to its internal navigation, to its States, to its commerce, and to its variety of agriculture : neutral to all .'^ectional antipa- thies, and the converging heart of all interests: WE must occupy this central position with power and dignity equal to its importance ; with a strength of grasp and intensity of enterprise to cope with the tallest exi- gencies. Let us appreciate this, and stand up to the work with hearts of cmitru- •cr.«y and sinews of endurance : that the fame of our glorious State, sa. ing forth from her seat in the centre, may resound in and outward all round from the centre to the circumfluent oceans ! Observe the foreign commerce of America, and the splendid marine which it sustains ! This has grown up in two hundred years. But com- pare with it the eonmierce and navigation of the interior, grown up in less 'han forty years, for such is the age of steam navigation on the rivers and lakes. The latter already equals the former, for it transports internally what i;: consumed at home, as well as what is collected at the seaports for expor- tation. Thus, St. Louis, in the amount of tonnage arriving and departing annually, is the fourth city of the Union, ranking next to Boston. Indefinitely grand is this domestic, internal commerce. Let us com- pare the two. The commerce between New York and Liverpool, 8500 miles asunder, requires powerful vessels of great size and strength to carry much, and resist the storms of the ocean. The intervening space is a clu.scrf iiyistc of salt water. A vessel of 000 tons must be filled with cargo before her departure, to make so long a voyage profitable. She goes to Liverpool and back — sails 3500 miles, touches only two points of land, and carries two loads — four months of time, at least, is consumed in THE PACIFIC IIMLWAY. 161 ■•'. intolli,!j.oiit.iiii(lc,,in. tniiiinu'l i)r(i<:rf.s.s iVdm nnrir (iniii/, and nin- li.s hour prc-eiiiiiH'iitly t is fur u.s tliat the ■sf< that lu'iiis ill our •■■s iluwu tlio iR'ilidiuus ■nt so hiiijr insidi((ii-sly )Wiiin<j: exeellc'iicc of bereft u.s. -lissouri. to advance to nshackled enorjiics — it on, to its States, to its to all sectional anti|ia- \VE must occupy this ts importance; with a »e with the talle.-t e\i- with hearts of contro- of our glorious State, sound in and outward s! i the splendid marine ired years. But com- ; interior, grown up in ivigatiou on the rivers *ports internally what ho seajjorts for e.\por- rriving and dejiarting ext to Boston, mcrco. Let us com- itnd Liverjpool, ;>')(»() iind strength to carry itervcniiig space is a it be filled with cargo jfitable. She goes to y two points of laud, ?ast, is consumed iu tills. Such arc the voyages of ocean commerce — expensive, dilatory and ti (laniiors. Coiniiarc with this the river voyage. From rittsl)urg ( nr New Or- leans; to Fort Union, the distance is liodd miles, by the Uliiu ami Mis- souri Kivcr.s — a steamer of (j((() tons, chea})ly constructed and navigated, peitiirnis the voyage to and fro, with perfect safety, in two and a half iiiiiiiilis. and alisolutely without danger, along a continuous river chaiiiu'l. This eiiannel has a double bank, so that tliis vessel coasts along a shore of 14,0(((t miles, at any square rod of which she may take in and discharge passengers and cargo. Thus it is jiossible that no single pas.senger or cargo remains on board over ItH) miles, and yet the vi'ssel is full through- out the voyage. These same advantages belong to rtiHr<in<h traversing populous countries. Siu-h is our internal navigation — cheap, expeditious, and absolntciy without danger. Now the circuitous seaboard surrounding the Atlantic may be estimateil at (lit, 000 miles, with harbors indenting it — but small ves.sels caimot navi- gate the broad sea, nor large vessels enter all the harbors. On the other hand, within the united basins of the St. Lawrence and AIi><issi[ipi. is a continuous river navigation for ir).()0(l niiles. having a double bank or !)(l,0(KI miles of coast, the whole extent of which may be visiteil by the same steamer, whicli can land anywhere I Such is one illustration of the supremely lieneficent Ibrmation of this great inti'rior basin, of which our own State occupies thecentr(> and focus. Let a railroad from the Missouri elongate this to tlu^ Pacific : carrying population clear up all the rivers to tlunr sources and down those beyond the Sierris; and behold the greatiu>ss of an ///^r^'?/ comnu'rce ! Everybody is acfpiaintt'd with the commercial intercourse between the continents which fringe the Atlantic. Tlio life, the vivacity, the grand energies which resound upon its buoyant waves. All this is the result of the discovery of Anu'rica and its jiopulation with Euro]ieau stock — hiMice all this has its growth ! Antifjuity had for its field tlie ^lediterranean, and galleys sufficed. This was comnu'rce in its infancy, confined to the nur.«ery and content with toys. Sinci! Columbus, America has become greater than the Europe of rolumbiis — and as this ])eriod has expandeil the field of human activity I'l'oni the Mediterranean to the Atlantic and .Me(literranean. IVoin Western l']uro]H' to America and Europe, blending all this vast space under one internal i(inal relationship. So now we advance to consummate the blending of the Pacific with these other seas: — Asia with these other continents — and urg(> to its goal that exjtandiiig progression, which marches ou to complete the zoilinc of 11 I -1:1 162 APPEXblX. I II the globe, iind lilonil into bonds of confrutoniity all the continents, all the seas, and all the nations ! In the vast region of Nortlnvcstern Texas, traversed by the rivei's Brazos, Trinity, ilio Uoxo, Canadian, Arkansas, and Del Ncjrte. exists a fertile region nuieh larger tliaii France, the dryness of wbost' eiinmtc;, whose red soils, impregnated with the sulphate of lime (jilasterj, and wliose altitude, present in perfect combination the qualities for the culti- vation of the grape and the production of wines. These rivers all have their sources in jirodigious mountains of plaster. from which the red tinge and the fertility of their valleys below is derived. Natural vineyards, covering n:illions of acres, and annually pruned down by the nibbling herds of butfalo and anteloi>e, here now yearly waste an infinite vintage. This has already become known to the German pioneers of Texas, and soon will be seen rising a vine culture, rivalling in national importance the cotton culture, the tobacco eroji. and even the jiroduction of jirovisions. Then too will be seen the universal consumption of mild and healthy wines by our pcojile, and the gay and exhilarating sjiirits which generous wines inspire, will transjiose the fell passions and fiery madness of alcohol. Again, the region oi'gold and jirecious metals and stones is not limited, liut is absolutely infinite. It is over the whole extent of that primary and volcanic formation extending from the antarctic to the arctic I'xtremitics of America, inchuling in its expanse the Andes of South and North America, the Sierra Mailre and the Table Lands. This abundance of the mati'rial of coin, wrought and develojied by sober American industry, is to the human race the supreniest gift of Divine Beneficence. Has not the American cotton culture obliterated liarsli aristocratic dis- tinctions in dress, and thus democratized the costume of society over the world? What cotton has done for ecjuality in dress, the .same will gold effect fiu' individual ecjuality in property and physical comforts. I^tudy how the stiff, icy servitude of European feudal times has melted, since the conipiests of Cortez and I'izarro opened the sources from whicii portable personal property has exalted itself above fixed and immutable glebe land ! Beyond the Sierra IMadre, upon the Great Tal)le Lands, is a parallel vein of thin mountains, whose masses consist of rock-.salt. As streams else- where Ijring down gravei and soil, so here they liijuefy the rocks down which they descend, and reaching the small inland seas and lakes, yield it again in the cry.xtalline coverings which jiave their bowls. In another parallel vein is a coniinm us line of jdaster mountains. A the continents, nil the "•f<i' fhniatc;, >f lime (j.liister). and "lualitios t'(.r the culti. mountains oi' iilastur. alleys below is ilciiveJ. annually jirun.d duwn •i now yearly waste au pioneers of Texas, and tational importance the xluetion of iirovisiuiis. mild and Iiealtliy wines < wliieh generous wines ^idness of aleoljol. d stones is lu.t limited, 'lit of that ].riniary and the arctic extremities of J^outh and Xurth harsh aristocratic dis- me of .society over the :'ss, tlie same will gold •al comforts, udal times has melted, le sources from which fixed and immutable unds, is a parallel vein lit. As streams elsc- |uefy the rocks down oas and lakes, yield it owls. aster mountains. 77/ a; PAf'irir n.MLWA v. 163 In another, a continuous line of tin J nf which are tlu? first ajipearani-e aiMive having flowed hundreds ol' miles under plains of lav; II riiiiii and mniirnini sjiruigs. snni< / d of snliterranea n rivers. tyccniiiiiii III h, rre It size abiiund. having' freestone, niarb anil eiial formations — iron. lead, and the metals of the arts. All forms, indeed, into which geology classifies matter, hen; follow one another in ajppro- jinate jiositions and proportions, wi th tl U' rciiularilv o f tl le stripes o rainbow: the wlnde deriving proininenee and distiuctuess of detail from the immensity of the general .scale. Thus, instead of inl'criority in al)uiidauce and variety of things used }iy and useful to man, it is here that they especially abound in variety, good (juality. and vastne.ss. A, dl tl lese must pa an y higl iwav eonncctin^i the two oceans, distributinu: outward the infinite natural resources of this intra-montaue woi Id. Xo other i)ortion of tlu' W(n'ld will better accommodate a d 1 lation than these Table liam eiise pojiu- oii wine faith er south, is the ch ief P"l lUla tion of Mexico. In the dryness and salubrity of its climat(>. its extraor- dinary pastoral oxcellence, and its mineral wealth, are the ei|uivalents of the richer lands, but uncertain seasons and health of countries of h'ss iltit uile. It,^ s intermediate iiositiou will secure iieriietual eominuiiicatioi perp( with tlie seaboards. An admirable economy of arrangement given by nature to the iiiilia<fii/ of our jieople. points with great jiower to this central route, which also cor- responds to the jMisitions and courses of the great navigable rivers. In New Kngland and at tlie extreme north, where winter dwarfs agri- culture, there are no planters, but sliijis are built, owned, and navigated. Here are the marine of America, her sailors. On the shores of the ( Julf, and where southern warmth invites men to agriculture, no sliips are built, owned, or navigated — the people here j-lant and produce cargoes i'ov the ships of the north — not a native sailor is found in these countries. Between these, occupying a broad central belt, are the farmers, pro- ducers of food. Tlu'se latter eipial in number the other two combined. The firmer recoils from a southern sun. where beat forbids labor, and where the culture of wheat and swine languishes; in like manner, ho recoils from the long winter of tlie north, where cattle ami Indian corn cease to yield abundantly. It is this CI iitriil Jiirniii'ij papiihili'iii which feed the commercial jieople of the North and the planting people of the South, and support them- selves and furnish for export. They jirecede all other occii] ants, and liead the movement into the wilderness, where the first reipiisites are I r ■I mm il :l» ''f'l :i t ^'i '<% 1(14 A /•/•/■: \f)/.\'. t'tiDil tiiiil tr;iiis|M)it;itinn. Vet it is iiinoiiu- tlio ('aniiin<; j)o|)ul;iti(iii that (luiiu'stic cuniincivi! liiids it.s jiivat vijluiiic of ennpldyincnts— and aiunnir tliciii arc re(|uire(i. first and cliicfiy, tlic 'j:\vi\t ehamiels of trade wliicii find tlicir termini anmnt:- tiie titlier two. It is tiiis mass, wiiieli. sto]i])ed liy the artilicial net-work ol' in<iri/iiiic IKiliii). is now riisliin^' thron^h and tearing its meshes from their I'aslen- ings. Jn resnminu' their ancient vigor, coneentrated hy hing restraint, they now demand a National llidlway to the ocean wiiicli they seek. What I have here stated, .Mr. (!iiairman and f'eliow-eiti/.cMis, of tji-n- ijrapliirdl fiictsf. ai'e of my own knowledge: lor with the works of Jiewis and Clarke. Frenionl, JOmory, and lluiidjoldt, I have during si>: toilsome years of war and exploration, traversed the countries they descrihe, and the vast intervals between, which //c-y have never visited. In these wanderings, undertidven of my own will, I have descended the Amies to the I'aeitie and returned; crossed and recrossed Ity many routes all the liasins of tlu! Taui.K ii.VNDS, excejiting oidy that of the city of -Me.vico, and coasted along tlie hase of the Sierra Madre from 4.")^ to 'I'y' . This •• niotiier range ' 1 have crossed and recro.ssed at si.\ diH'erent jiasses in this long interval, and its su]ireme grandeur is stamjied indelibly in my memory. What I have said ofyc/Z/cy is from tlu! mouths of those eminent states- men who have contrived it, and those eijually eminent who have unsuc- cessfully oppo.sed it. T iiave exi)re.s.sed my convictions very positively, hut not immodestly: for in the terrible vastness of tlu'se solitudes, Nature speaks her iron will from summits of t'ternal ice, and wlu-re she frowns upon our advances, our foolish efforts shrivel into ashes. It is, then, this stern and certain language of Nature that I have sought to penetrate, and hero struggle to repeat. .Many routes for a National Highway, cunningly contrived and speciou.sly reasone(l out. ar(> before the jieople — all these will vanish beneath exact <l(<iijr(iiiliic(d scrutiny, for they violate nature at haj)-hazard, with whom hum; in s kill nnist act in unison. This unison is happily attainable, and discussion will reveal it. JiCt us. tlu'ii. understand Nature riuhtlv — let us cease fr fli 'om conn let, am feather our onward inarch in uiiisini with her beneficent aid and guidaiict Tl us "reat W(nk ntaxl come, aii< 1 <(>i ne iiDir to t/i, us ijiniriitlitti. iSo ( liffi- culty lies in the enterprise itself — but such as will instantly vanish before the coiiceiitrated will and energies of the peoi)le. iiii;- iHijiulaticiii timt iiit'iits — and iiiuuiiL' lU'ls (if tnnlc Avliicli t-work of iiKtrlliiiii; IVuni tlu'ir fistcn- 1 l>y IdiiiT ivstraiiit, licli tlicy Hc'i'k. (i\v-i-itiz(!ns, (if ifa- tlif \V(jrks (»f Jicwi.s diirinji' six toilsDiiio s tlk'y (k!.serilju, and itt'd. Iiavi' dt'sc('n(k'd the sscd liy many mutes • that of tho city (jf IV from 45= to 25". t ,six diflorcnt jiassos qii'd indclihly in my hoso fniincnt states- nt wlio iiavo unsiu;- iiit not immoch'stly : sjK'aks lier ircni will upon our advances, lis stiM'u and certain and here struugie to rived and speciously misli l)eneath exact -hazard, witli whom ipily attainable, and w from conflict, and It aid and guidance. ncrnfiwi. 2no diffi- tuntly vanish befoiv III. rilOCEKDINGS OF A MASS MKKTlNd OF TIU; CITI/.KNS (IF .lACKSON ((IINTV, AT INDKI'IAHKNCK, ON Till: .iTII (iF MlVF.M liKlf, IM'.i, To liKSl'OMI TOTIIK ACTION OF Till: (lliKAl' NAI'K IN AI, ISAILUOAD t'(.lN VKNTION, IIKI.n IN ST, I.OI IS, ON TIIK l.-.TII HAY oF oCToliFli, ls4:i. 0.\ motion of .Mr. J. W. .Modie. Colonel .Jamks ('iiii.Ks was appointed Chairman, and on motion of 1{. (J. Smart. Ivscj.. .1. |{. I'al.MKR was ap- po in intt'd Secretary. Colonel Wll,l,l.\.\i (iii.pi.N was then called ii]miii to address the nieet- <i. and explain its oli jl'Ct. II. e resiiolKle. I to th i- call in a speech wliieli an terested and occuiiied the attention of tlie mectinj;' for alioiit one hour d a half; in conclusion lie moved the a]i]i(iintmeiit of a. coiiimittce of to the lonsive twelve to writ(,' and re]i(irt to the inet'tinu resolutions res] action of the ^reat Convention at St. Jiouis. The motion having:' lieeii adojited, the Cliairman ajipointed as the Committee: Colonel William (iil- jiin, A. Hrookini;-. (Jeiieral S. D. Lucas. Samuel Kalstoii. .Major lioliert Itickman, Colonel .James M. Cogswell. .James I'attoii. K.s(|.. Colonel Oliver Caldwell. 11. (I. Smart, Ks.p, William 1{, Singleton, Alexander Collins, an d S. II. Woodson, Es(|. The ( omm ittee, after consultation, reiiorted the followi eport in'i' res( )lutions, which were unanimously adojited : — 1. licnolnif, That we heartily and zealously approve of, and concur in, the procecdinj;' of the '■ National Eailroad Convention." held at St Louis on the L")tli ultimo. 2. lioiiilinl^ That in the great national work, that shall connect the two si'alioards of our country, and the interior with the s(!aboards, wo behold an enterprise as universal to tlu^ inhaliitants of our Ciiion as their language, their politics, and their commerce — a lioiid of unanimous action, and not a lione of contention and strili'. ;>. Jirsttlnd, That to tho people of the "Valley of the Mississippi," intimate and direct eiuineetion witli the seaboards and people of tlio Pacific, IS as essential and as interesti ii"' as \vi til those of the .\tlantic. 4. Rcsi'Iri'd, That, inasmuch tl IS our people in tlieir natural progressive growth have extended their habitations across thetMjntinent, and along the l«o lil'i il:il i vi IGG A ri'J:.\Di\. Wosterii si'alioanl. it i?; mir diitv, and tlie duty (if our uiivi'riiiiK'iit, to pivo til tliifs new .si-a hoard, fleets, iortitications, and arms lor dctt'iic-i' — liarlmrs. liulit-liouscs, and marine iiolii'c, for tlie iMicourajiemcnt and iirotoction of coiiimfrci' and lii<;li\va}> — and a military jioiiw to conKrm and make siU' tlie connection with the interior. 5. llisiilrid.fnrtlirr, That a NATIo.\At< K.VILHOAI) I'rom tiie Missis.siiijii to the I'acitic is the most direct, economical, and constitutional means of ett'ectin^' the above objects. 0. RiKiiInd, Tiiat. wliereas tlie Almiulity has placed the territories of the American I'nioii in the cknthk, between Asia and Europe, and the route of tlie '• Asiatic and Euroiiean Railway' through the lu'art of our national domain, it is our duty U) the human family to jirosecute. vigor- ously, through its iii'W channel, that sujireme commerce between the Ori- ental nations and the nations of the Atlantic, which history proves to have existed in all ages, and to be neces.siry to keep alive comity, science, and civilization among mankind. 7. J?(S(Jrr(Jj That, whereas the people of China. Japan. Polynesia, and Southern America now receive from Hritish India (i<j rlcult n nil prwhuc (raw and manufactured cotton, indigo, opium, ric.', wool, etc.) to the amount of §15(1,(1(1(1,(1(1(1, annually; we believe these same people will take from the Americans, //( jirrfrrinci', more than twice this amount of agricultural jiroducc (substituting toliacco for opium, and flour and meats for rice), so soon a.s the barrier of the J{ocky Mountains be removed by a National Kailway. H. I?i's(ifi((/, That, apart from the great benefits which shall accrno to lis and the other nations of the Atlantic from this National Kailwaj', we regard it as a beneficent dimnsfic v;i>rk, to open to our ])enjile access to the immense and glorious domain of the Plains, the Sierra Madre, the great Table Lands, and the Andes, known to alxiund in metals, mountains and lakes of salt, mountains if plaster and marble, thermal and medicinal springs, wild cattle, salubrious climates, sulphur, coal, lumber, arable and ])astoral lands of the finest (juality, and stajile productions uidimited in variety and abundance. 1*. licxiihuii. That, whereas, during the last thirty years, the generation of our fatlu'is has <;overed the eastei'u half of our continent with States, and, commencing witli the; Xi'w York Canal in ISIS, lias everywlu're ren- dered the connection betwei'ii the '• ^'alley of the Mississijijii" and the Atlantic seaboard complete, and carried the comi'ierce of the Atlantic to the grandest develoi)ment — it is the high and glorious mission and duty of ii.s their sons and heirs, of the growing generation, //( l!lc<' iikiiiih r, to cover the western half of the continent with States, to render complete Git EAT KATIOXAL RAILROAD CO.S'YEyTIOX. lt!7 with pvat works the connection of the " Valley of tlie Mississi]i|ii" with the I'aeilic .seaboard, and expand upon the Pacitie Ocean a siinihirly niai;- nitiicnt commerce. 10. Jus(i/rr</. That we earnestly entreat our fellow-citizt'ns, in all .■sec- tions of our Union, to unite with us in this cnitntl domeMiv work in pref- erence to di.ssipatinji the national energies upon circuitous routes, runninj;' iRsu'the ('(juator, throufih f'oreij;n countries beyond nur control, and certain to involve us in the competitions, the jealousies, and the hostile interests of foreigners and rivals. n. /iV,st</(V'(/, That we invite our fellow-citizens throughout the State to a.ssemble in their counties and cities, and join in a general aiid unani- mous resjionse to the St. Louis Convention, and unite with us in respect- fully instructing our Reju'csentatives and Senators in Congress to vote for suth nii'asures as maybe introduced at the coming session of our National Legislaturi' to carry out the views embodied in the foregoing resulutions. lli. Risiihrd, That the Secretary of this Ma.ss Meeting forward to each of iiur Representatives and Senators in Congress a copy of these resolutions. Mr. George W. Khoades offered the tbllowing resolutions: — 1. Rtso/vid, That Colonel (lilpiu be recpu'sted to write out for publica- tion the s]ieech made by him to this meeting on to-day. 2. Nisofrcil, That the '• Missouri Commonwealth," and all other papers ill this State friendly to a jiroject of constructing a National Railroad to the I'acitic from the '• Valley of the 3.lississipiii," be recjuested to publish the proceedings of this meeting. ! 1 mm '! i i M I"V. PIKE'S PEAK AND THE SIERRA SAN JUAN. EXTRACTS FltOM AN AlMIHK.vS I)Y COI.dXEL WILLIAM (JILI'IN, 1)KL1VF,I!I',I> AT KANSAS CUY, NdVKMltKIl 15, 1858; ON TUK fidLU I'UODIXTIUN OF AJIKUIC'A AND TllK SIKltltA SAN .IIAN. I sruMiT to your inspection three iniqis. Tlie first is u " Ilydro- liTiiiiliie Map of North America, " exhihitinj:- in dajiuerreotyjie the iihysical divisions of our eontinent; the second is a niaji of tlie worhl, exhihiting America in tlie centre, between Asia and Europe, and luiving delineated upon it the Isothermal Zodiac of Nations, filling the north temperate zone of tiie lilolie ; the third is a maj) of the '• Rasin of the 3Iississi]i])i." Physical geojiraphy arranjics the suri'ace of the eontiiu'iits into basins anil the mountain crests which divide them. Thus the basin of the Mis- sissij)pi is that surface which, being drained by all the confluent branches of this river, discharges its fresh waters into the Gulf of Mexico. This surface is an undulating, calcareous plain of 1,2()(M)00 S((uarc miles of area : it is eud)raced entirely within the temperate zone : occu- pies the heart and splendors of our continent : and is the most magnifi- cent dwelling-place marked out by God for man's abode. Three more similar r<i/<(iirciis basins, each drained by a single system of rivers : the basin of the St. Lawrence : the basin of the Saskatchewan of Hudson Ray ; and the arctic basin of the Athabasca, resting upon one another and ujion the liasin of the ]Missi.«sippi, form together one continu- ous exjianse, geologically uniform and identical. This immen.se expanse defines itself as the Cnlcareovn Plain uf North Awcri'cd. Limestone, horizontally stratified, underlies this whole expanse, being formed, like cheese from milk, from the sediment and pressure of the ocean which once rolled over it, but has now retired. This adcuirniis plain, thus forming a unit in jihysical goograjjliy, em- braces four-sevenths of the area of our continent. It is encompassed all round by a circuit of primary mountains, within which it forms an amjilii- theatre. 1G8 These mou diUeras of tlu mouths of the oceans. 'I'hi- towards the covers t\vo-se\ External t by the mean the third uni the area of oi Behold, tl simple, comp Mountain V< The i/ruloi magnitude o ('itli'ii'iiii.i 1 tally dciiosit presenting t elevated vert ba.se partly i Everybod plished by ] moulds. K; cools, into a earth has h tating spher Geology ( ranged itsel successive c Specijic ; upon the t metallit'eroi precious mi tained in tl holds in th tended dist It is vol production Pikes Pci Spicijic metids ma SAN JUAN. Plk'ES PEAK A.\l> Tin: Sir.l!l!.\ .SM.V J VAX. ir.9 Those mountains are the AUejihaiiics, towards tlic Atlantic ; the Cor- Jillcnis (if tile Sierra Madre and tin- Amh's, tnwanls t I'acitic. Tlie mouths of tile jxreat rivei> form tlie iluurs or outlets thrnujih tliem to the oceans. This eireumferent wall of niduntains is of immense breadth towards the Paeitie. It is the seeoiid unit in iihysieal ^eoj;' aphy, and covers two-sevenths of tiie area of our eontinent. External to the Mountain Formation is the Muritiim: Slu^ic, washed by the oeeans, and jienetrated Ity the tides. This external division is tlie third unit in physical geograjdiy, and fornix all round one-scveiith of the area of our eontinent. Behold, then, the pliysieal arranjioment of our continent ; at onec siiii]ile. coinijlete. an ' sublime: — the Calcareous IMain, four-sevenths; the Mountain Formation, two-sevenths; the Maritime Slope, one-sevntli. The ijKilmjlail .strueture of our continent has the same order, a like iiiaunitude of dimensions and arraniremeiits, a jiarallel simplicity. The i'liliiiiiDHK I'liiln is a uniform .ecoudary formation of limestone, horizon- tally deposited and stnititied. The Mitunlida Fonimtion is of granite, jireseiitiiig the primeval crust of the globe rent by volcanic forces and elevated vertically. The Mmifi'inc S/',pr presents the external mountain ba.se partly revealed, and partly covered l>y the washings of tin; sea. J]verybody is familiar with the manufacture of shot. This Is aceom- jilished iiy jiouring liquid lead, at a high elevation, through perforated moulds. Each pellet of lead, descending through the air, is formed, as it cools, into a sphere, by the invisible I'orce of gravity. The globe of the earth has had a similar origin — once a liijuid mass, now a solid, gravi- tating .sjihere, such as we inliabit it. Geology explains how the material ma.ss of this great sphere has ar- ranged itself, in cooling, into layers eiiveloiiing one another, like the succissive coatings of an onion. Sjiccijic ff runt ff awownts for the relative position of these layers, one ujioii the other, and explains to us when and how to penetrate to their metalliferous contents. It is in the ^(c/y/** /v^n-ocks exclusively that thj lirecious metals and precious stones are found. The ba.se metals arc con- tained in the calcanons or secondary rocks. The same stupendous scale holds in the abundance of the metals, their purity, and their widely ex- tended distribution. It is your request that I speak, specially, on this evening, of the gold production of our country, and specifically of the reg'on surrounding I'ike s Peak and the Sii r a San Juan. Ayi'(//fc ^)VH(Vy guides us to discover the rocks in which the precious metiils may be found, and where they are totally absent. If into a hollow vM ' i m 1 : '!) :i 170 APPESniS. \)\\\-M 111' u;iit>s tluTi' 111' jiourcd ii ([uart nf (juicksilvcr, niio of wiitcr, diic df oil, iiiiil one iit'iili'iiliiil, tli('S(! Iii|uiils will rest mic ii]i(iii tlic ntln r. in tliis (inlcr : if w jiifcc dt" jiold. 'if inm, uf wuod. ami a feather, lie tlii'dwn in, they will .»iiik : the jidld t(i the Lottoiii, the irciii t(i the (iuieksii\rr, the w • Kid ti) the water, the feather to the oil. ifll lis mass he emitie; laled to iee, this iirrati"vment will remain sniiil !II1>1 jierijiaiieiit : the ji'iild must lie .sdiiuht fur stiHiiicnturij to the <|uieksilver ; the iiiiii aliuve it. but siilhin iiluri/ to the water; the wood sedimentary to the oil. Ill the ureal oriler of nature, u similar arraii^iemen t hul lis in till' nicks whieli eomiin.su the ^lnlie of the earth, and in their cunteiits, ihru all liiiuiil. lint now iiermaneiitly sulid in the order uf tlu'ir relative sjinijic mil, nd lur Miles lu, (/i(iri/iis. It is the piliiuvnl mass, then, of the Mountain Fnriiiat wliieh alone i.s imrlfcrunx, and within it only eau the jireeimis metals, csjieeially uold, he .souj;ht for with Hueeess. The Mountain Formation, whieli oeenpies the western iinrtiuii uf i continent to the extent of two-sevenths of its whole area, etnisi.'^ts of tin Cordillera of the Sierra Mailre on the east, the ("urdillera of the .\ on the west, and the Plateau of the Table Jiands embraced between tin It ix uiiijoniili/ priimvdl niiil mrj/ic/urr (iiiri/'crnKs. The JMateau of the Table Lands eomnu'iiees abovc^ Teluiantejiec. where the Corililleras beiiin to mien I'rom one another. It runs tliiiiiiL;li the continent to Behring's Strait, and is 1000 mile.s in width, in mir latitiulo Q]\)°). The general elevation of its surface is OUOd feet above the .sea; that of the Cordilleras is 12,000 feet. The Plateau is traver.sed aeni.ss by ureat mountain chains, which subdiviile it into basins. Thife of the.si' basins contain, resjiectively, the jjreat rivers the Columbia, the Culoradu, and tlu! Rio del Norte, whieli uor^v the Cordilleras and escape to the seas. Th ither basins contain the stagnant lakes, the (jreat Salt hake, th Lajxuna, and the Lake of the City of Mexico; these have no outlets or Ira inane to th e seas. Of tl lese moun tain chains the most interestiiin ti us is the Sierra Mimbrcs. This divides asunder the basins of the Colo- rado and the Del Norte, which rest against it as a baekbone. It leaves the wcufern flank of the Cordillera of the Sierra Madre in latitude o!*°, and, traversing' the Plateau by a due southern course for 1400 miles, joins the Cordillera of the Andes in the Mexican State of D uraiiirii. Ill latitude Tl us mmintain chain is volcanic, coiitaiiuiii; craters and the overflow of lava. The Cordillera of the Andes is also volcanic. Th e.sc mountain chains consis t of the primeval rocks, broken fi oni tl leir original positions, heaved up edgewise by the exjiansive power of the in- ■r, one of water, diic (,f 'il'oii the (.tiler, ill tlii., feather, I.e tliniwn in. til tlle (|llieksilver, thf lit will remain snjiil jnni '"•y t<i the i|iiiek>ilver; the wiMid .sediiiieiitiirv tn iaii;;-eiiieiit lu.id.s in th,,. in their (•diiteiit.s. una' if their relative K/mijic 3Iounfaiii Funnatinn, the jireeidiis nielals, ;iiul '■ we.stern ]i(irti(iii i,\' (mr Kile area, (•(in.si.>ts ,,\' the ('•irdillera (if the Amies rniliraeed lietween them. ove Toliiiantcpec. wiiere . It runs throii-h the in width, in onr latitude t above the sea ; tliat of raver.sed aern.><,s hv i;reat TliiTo of these hasins iliia. the Colorado, and <l eseape to tin? seas. he Great Salt l.ake, the ie.se have no outlets or the most inti'restint; to the basins of the Colo- liaekbone. f the Sierra IVfadre in Hi soutliern eoiir.se tor the Mexieaii State of is voleanie, eontainiiiir of the Andes is al.so )ek.s, broken from their insive power of the in- I'lKF/S PEAK A.\n rilK SI Kit It. \ .s'.l.V ./f'.l.V. tcriial tires of the jihilie, and revealed tu siL:ht and search M. 171 ih CoWado River, in e.scajiinj; to the sea, pirii'es the Cordillera of tlie .\ndes diagonally, liaving rent its way by a eliasin boreil throie/ii tlie very bowels iif the Cordillera, iithwart from base to base. This eliasm. HH) miles in Ici'utli, i-* known aw tiie Canon of tlii' Colorado. This eanoii presents the uni(|Ue and novel fact to inaiikind, that a pii- iiiaiy nioiiiitain ehaiii whose summit is of the iiiiii/rrniis /v/c/.s, is thus Mciij;ed to its foundations, many thou.sand feet in depth ! It is here, upon the I'lateaii, in the areaiia of the mountain formation, ami the activity of the stupendous forjxcs of nature, that the precious nietuls may be sought in mass and in ]Misitioii. Moreover, the Sierra Mimbres, where its southern lialf bisects the .Mexican Slates of Duranjio and Chihuahua, contains twenty-one mines iif.-ilver, which, wrought for three centuries by the Spaniards, have fur- iii-iiied the world with its silver coin and bullion. Moreover, where the Sierra Mimbres, in its course to the north, approaches to its junction with tli'j Sierra 3Iadre, it increases to a prodigious bulk. It rises to tlie altitude of [lerpetual snow, and a,ssuines for 2(MI miles the local name of »SV''/vv< <S''/*/ Jimn. lle.e it is that the dislocation of nature by volcanic forces, and the coiise(pient metalliferous develo|inieiit, attain their hij^hest culmination. What is about to follow the arrival of our pioneer people within this region, may be exactly illustrated by what is already done within the rei;io:< of the great Colcdnons Phtln. We have seen that the ailcnni/iis plain, being formed beneath a great ocean, condensed from its filtration and by its pressure, eontains only the base metals, copjier, iron, lead, zinc. A metalliferous band of these metals is traceil diagonally aero.ss it, traversing from Southwestern Texas, through that State, throiigli Arkansas, Missouri, Wisconsin, brushing the shores of Lake Superior and of Hudson Hay, to the ocean shore opposite Green- land. Points of culmination of these various metals are found where they reveal themselves above the general surface /// iiikss mid in jiositinn. Thus, iron ajipears in 3Iiss luri in native jiurity, iirotruding in mountain masses over many hundred sipiare miles of surface ; the .same is the form of copjier adjacent to Jjake Superior ; so also with lead in Missouri and in Wisconsin, Now, the same arrangement characterizes the immen.se jirimeval forma- tion which occupies our eontineiit from Cape Horn to IJehring's Strait, and which is throughout im])regnated with the precious metals I As goKI is every- where else found within it in the form of "rains or .scales, or minute u ' i 172 API'ESDIS. Iiiiiilis : HO is it jHi.ssililc for it to culiiiinnfc in inas.-- mnl In iifisitinn. wluic tlic aiirilrniiis nn-ks iirc uplu'tivcd to tiina tiic vcrticiil iiiiiss<'s ol' tiie Sierra S.ni ilii.in ami tiic Andes, ami arc liifii gorj;t!d into tluir liiiwilsliy tlu' eariiiii of tiie ('iilnrado. 'riic search fur udld lias lieretofore eoiitiiied itself to tlie cxtcnia! tlmiio of tlu! jiriiiieval immiilains, wlicri' tliey fnnit the sea, and where the livcis descend from (heir liack.s. Why it has Iiere hcen found onlv in ;zniiiis, scales, and small lnni|)s may he thus illustrated; 1 (<ti|)|i()sc myself at iiiv cainji-lire in the wilderness, enua.iicil in huilin^ rice: into a eam|i-kettli' df boiliui: water I thmw a cu|i of rice. This rice, after a time. .M'ttlcs l.y its siivctjlc i/ntn'fi/ into a .sedimentary mass heneath tho water — the water above ri'tains a milky whiteness. This whiteness is due to the ineseiici' of miniile jiarticles of rice; remaininjj; siisjiended throu.:h the Kody nf the fluid. Being frozen into ice. this comlition remains ii.\ed in solid form. The |>resencc of the e-old in the auriferous rocks has had a similar mi- gin, and iireseiits identical conditions. It is the attrition of the elements ii]n)n the surface rocks and veins oidy that have as yet attracted at- tention. It i.s hciititth tliatwe must search for tlie .sedimentary mass; the possihility to do wliich now Hrst jir"sents itself as \\v advance within the lal)yiinth of the volcanic masses and caMons (d'the Plateau. My own ]iersonal exjierience, earned during three military cxiieilitioiis made between the years 1844-49, rendered desperate from the then un- known complication of the country added to the numerical strength and savage character of the Indians, is not wit' uit value. The facts then and since collected liy nn> are so numerous and so posi- tive, that I entertain an. ah.soliite conviction, derived fl-om them, that yuJil ill iiKtKs and ill posi/ion and infinite in ((uantity will, within the coming three years, reveal itself to the I'liergy of our j)ioneers. All the jirecions metals and precious stones will also reveal themselves in equal abiuulancc in this region so propitious to their production. Such a develonment has nothing in it speculative or theo-etieal. Tt comes of necessity in tho order of time, ami as an intnitabh' se(|ucnce to the planting of empire in Texas, in California, in Oregon, in Kansas, and in Utah. As these other develojunents have preced(Ml it in the order of time, and encompa.ss it all round, this now comes to unite, to complete, to consinn- mat(! the rest, and to give form and jiower and sjilendor to the whole. Tlie inquiry which acqutiints us with the climate, the agricidtur(>, and the domestic gefigrajiliy (d' this immense region, is still ei(ually interesting and imjiortant as its metals. It was uiion the summit of this jilateau, /'/ ^vliiiv it trave M(inti'/iima ai every otlier p' The distam- l,y the :.:reat I .,11,1 aMendin;. iiiiiiiiiiiiin ''■'" vise fiiiin belli Pikes Pea is the alirupi |initniding c; ; tlier the Wlure thl ,_,!■;, lid Jncil/ I This /"">/ p (;',!P>. is alio 'fh.'diivel wesleni ilali Peak, kiiowi River of the dl' their juii fur 2IMI mile waters of \')n Tlie soiitl Niirte IVoiii Platte Hive Miiiimit, i'roi depart. Upon tin Cirande of Uio del No and Kagle canons. 'flu! pan riveis whic (if singulai one anotbi of the rivi Behold, sunnounti. variety of :l ' vcrticiil iii;,,ss,..H ,,r the ';:<'<1 iiitu their Im.wcIs |,y "■»«' Hi,. ..xtniKil fl„„ks "•'fl, .-Mill Whciv til,. |.j^.,,fj ■III Himid ,.iik ill -niiiis, I SIljtJioM' lll_V>clf ;it iiiv ' : iiitoii cjiiiiii-k.nl,. „(■ 't<'i' ;i time, settles |,v its till! water— th,. «;ii,.,. ■'N is due to tlu" preseiKr I tlirnll-li tlie ImmIv ,,f 1 rcinains fixed in >„,|i,l •ks liiis had !i siiiiii.ir eii- attrilidii (,f til,, ,.1,.„„,|„^ ave as yet attracted af- 10 sedimentary mass ; the IS we advam-e within the II' I'hiteau. Iirce military oxi.editidiis icrato Jroin the then im- ' muiierieal streii-ih and iiluo. •'• nmnerouH and so \h\A- I'rivi'd fVoiii tli.'iii, that y will, within the eoniiiiir loors. All tlio precious 'Ives in oijiial aliiindaiicc itivc or theo'-otieah It I inovitiiblo soqiicnce to Orc^'on, in Kansas, and I the order of time, and to comidete. to consiiiii- ^n(h)r to tho whole, tc. tho aprictdture. and still e<(iially interesting iinnnit of thi.s plateau, I'iKK's rt:.\K AMI nil: s/i:i;i;.\ s.\.\ ,/r.i.v. 17;', wlnre it traverses Mexico aini I'clll. thai the sellli-civili/.cil enijiires of Mniitr/iima ami the Ineas were found, wlien a sterile harliari^m peiNadccI I'xcrv oilier portion of the coniincnl if .\nierica. The distance hence to i'iki's I'eak is le>.-. than ViMI mile-.. It is readii'il liV liii' great ro;id of ihc .\ikansas Itiver. traversing straight to llie west. Mini ;i>cclidillg the inipeiceptilile grade of the (Ircal Plains clear to the Miiiiiiii.'iiii liasr. liojil is here ili»co\ei'ed as soon as the primeval rocks ri«c from heiicilli the calcareous plain. J'ikcs I'e.ik. which rises to the ailitilde of I {..'illll feet aliove the sea, i^ the alniipl lolossd termination of tiie nioiiniain proinoiitorv. which, jii'iiti'iiding eastward from the Cordillera liHi miles, sunders from one ;iii(illicr the sources of the South I'lalte and llie .\rkaiisas liiveis. Where this proinontoiy connects with the Cordillera is a supremely i;i;iiid I'liiiil point of primaiy inoiiiitain chains, j.riniary rivers, and pares. Tiiis /<'((// point is in the same latitude as San l-'raiicisco and St. Louis (li'.C I. is ahoiit llfiX) miles from each, and in the centre lietweeii them. The direction of the Coi'ilillera is from umtlitrisl tit sonl/nuxf. l''rom its in flank protrudes a pronioiit(U'V, lialancing and similar to I'ike's Wcsle I'c'ik. known as i']lk .Mountain : it sunders from one another the (iraiid llivei' of the Colorado and the Kagle, terminal it ig aliruplly within the angle el' tliiir jiiiictioii. Jladiatiiig due south is the Sii/fi .)//'//////'.<, known liir lilill miles liy the snowy pe;iks ol" Smi Jnuii ; this chain sunders tlu; waters of Kagle River from the iiio del Norte. The southern arm of the Conlillera sunders the waters of the Hio del Nolle from the Arkansas Itivcr: the iioilheiii arm. tl.i' waters of tho I'latte Itiver from the Jlio (Jraiide of the Colorado. Such is this focal Miiiiinit, from wliiili live primary mountains and live rivers simullaneously ileparl. Upon tho Platte is the pare known as the I5ayou Salado : upon the l!io (irando of tho Colorado, the pare known as the Middle J'arc ; upon the Hio del \orte. the pare called the l?ayou of San Luis. Tlie Arkansas and Kagle Hivers have no pares: they delile outward through stupendous canons. The pares, scooped out of the main doisil mass of tho Cc dillera hy tho rivers which liisect them. are. each oiieof them, an immense iini/i/ii/lniitri' of singular heaiity. fertility, and temperate atmosphere; they approach one another where they rest againsi the Cor<liilera at thi' extreme sources ui' the rivers. IJehold, then, the panorama which s , lutes the vision of one who ha.s surmounted this supreme i'ocal suiiiiiiit of the Cordillera! Infinite in variety of features; each feature intiiise in the magnitude and the gran- H h f. f: -1 171 Ar/'EXDrx. :i ' lit} dour of its mould; in front, in rear, and on citlicr hand. Xatur(> ascrndini' in all licr ck'nicnts to tlic .xtandiird of superlative snliliniity ! ]}eneatli, tlie family of Pares: around, the radiating- harks of the iiri- meval mountains: the jirimary rivers startintr to the seas: aliuve. tlio ethereal eanopy intcn.sely hhio, eflul<rent witli the unelouded sini liv dnv, and stars liy niuht : to the east, the undidatini;- plains, expandin;^ nui' liim dred leaLi'Ues. to di]i. like the ocean, heneath the eneirclinir horizon : to tin; west, the sulilime I'lati'au, eheekeri'd hy voleanie peaks and nie.-as, eli;iii- nclled as a lahyrinth hy the profound jrorgcs of tlie streams! It is manifest with what ease the pioneers, alri'ady enpiL'ed in niiiiiii',' at the entraneeof the I?ayou Salado. wdl in another si'ason asi-end throiiiih it to the Cordillera, surmount its crests, and descend into the Hayou San Luis. They will dovi'lop at every stop gold in new and increasini; abundanec. Besides, access is e((ually facile l>y the Huerfano, an affluent of tlio Arkansas coming down from the Siianish Peak, KM) miles farther to tlu' south. From New Mexico, the apjiroach is by ascending the IJio liravn del Norte. The snowy battlements of the Sierra San Juan form tlie west- ern wall of the Bayou San Luis. From its middle flank the Sierra San Juan projects to the southwest a chain of remarkable volcanic mountains, known as the Sierra La I'lata (silver mountain). This chain divides a.sunder the waters of the (Ireat Colorado from the Rio San Juan, ami, filling the angle of their junction, forms the perpendicular wail "f tlio Groat Canon. It is to this remarka})le mountain chain, and its surrounding region. that I have desired to conduct you, and here stop, in the mid-t of tlie veritable arcana of the ^lountain Formation anil its metalliferous elements. The Sierra La Plata is -idO miles in length, having its course v r;<t-,s(iutli- west. Along its dorsal crest are volcanic masses penetrating to perjietna! snow ; its flanks descend by immense terraces of carboniferous and sul- phurous limestone. All formations of the globe liere come together, mingle with one another, ac(|uiro harmony, and arrange themselves >iiK' by side in gigantic proj)ortions. Lava, porphyritic granite, sandstone, limestone, the precious and h.iso metals, precious stones, salt, marble, coal, thermal and medicinal streams, fantastic mountains called cristonos, or abrupt peaks, level mesas of great fertility, canons, delicious valleys, rivers, and great forests; all these, ami a thousand other varieties, find room, appear in succession, in perfect order and in perfectly graceful proportions. Benioteness i'rom the sea. and altitude, secure to this region a tonic iitniosphere, warm, cloudless, brilliant, and serene. The aboriginal people arc numeroi Indians. T of horses, c porary housi lli're, als( half a centu Mountain). to an altituc A iiure stra liver Dolor its lower co million stn iilternates. Such, m selected fo Peak and t engaged tli more than Ovcrsha ments, wli pioneer pt actor whit Who, a people of I nor of the the Centi admonish which as; Look zodiac oi homos ai c(intinen right ha slopes to Behol islands, seaboari Thes( the wor occupy and o-or PIK'E-S Pi:.\K A\n THE SlEllHA SAX JTAX. 175 '■'■ '"""I- N'atiiro ns.rn.ling • ' Mililiniity ! f f" tl... soiis: iilinv,., tho tlic nnddiidcd Mill l,v ,l,.,v^ piiiiins, ox,, ;i„,ii„„. ,,„;,, ,1^;^' •■"••ircliii.:- linn/,,ii : t„ tlif till' .>;trciiiiis ! [Ircjidy ciiiriio;,.,! j), „uu\n- rlKTsoiisoiiascciidilirnii-li ■M-cnil iiit(, til,. M;,v,,i, Siin 1 ill lu'W iiiid in,ivi,,si„^, 'I'fiiiK.. an iiffluciit ,,(■ tlR. . !<»(» niilos fhrtluT t.Mhr • iisiriidin- till. ]{,-,, H,..,v„ i^ini Juan fiirin di,. ^cst- '1<1I<' fl;mk til,. Sierra S;iii kalile Vdlcaiiic iiK.iiiit.iiiis, i"). This c-liain divides >' tli<- Kio San Juan, and, iMTiiondieuIar wall .f the I its siirrrundiii- iv-i„ii. •^t.i]). in flu- ,„i,l,t „<■ the its nietallifcrous .dcnicnfs, t'iiig its course \(cst-soutli. Iioiietrating t„ pfrpetiiMJ if earbdnifl'ivuis and sul- '»' hero conio togotli<.r, i'lrangc theuisclvos side N the iirooinns and hase I and medicinal streams, 'ks, level mesas of L'reat It forests ; all tliese. and -cession, in jiorfeet order to this region a tonic The ahorigiiial jirojiie arc numerous, robust, and intelligent. They are *hv Navajos and Vuta Indians. They have skill in agricultui'e and weaving, rear great herds of horses, cattle, and .sheei), hut construct neitlu'r jiermanent nor tem- porary houses, so dry and favorable is tho atmosphere. Here, also, occurs a remarkable, isolated mountain, known to riinior for half a century, but only now locally identified. This is Cerro di Sal (Salt Mountain). This rises among tho western spurs of the Sierra La IMata, to an altitude of 0(100 foot, ajipoaring as an irregular cone of great bulk. A pure stratified mass of rock-salt, its flanks arc channelled l»y the little river Dolores, whose waters, saturated with liijuid salt, yield it again in its lower course, in granulated beds of snowy whiteness, tinted with Ver- million streaks from tho beds of solenite with which tho salt formation alternates. Such, my fellow-citizens, arc the facts and reflections which I have selected for your attention in speaking upon tho .u'old region of I'ike's Peak and the Sierra Sun Juan. Tho superlative character of this region engaged the enthusiastic pen and patriotic instincts of President Jefl'erson, more than lialf a century ago. Overshadowed during this long interval by jiolitical and military excite- ments, which have deflected elsewhere tho jirogressivo columns of our pioneer people, it now recurs to restore the jire-emineiit ccnllni nlnl char- acter which insjiirod the generation who founded our republican Union. Who, and what, are these people that I now address? We are not the peopli! of the North ; we are not tlie peoi>le of the South ; nor of the Kast; nor of tho West. AVe are emphatically, and /«o- r.rcillriirr, the peo])lo of the Centre ! Inspirations, oracular by their source and their antiiiuitj-, admonish us to resume our distributive position, and develop the energies which assume and keep tho lead. Look upcjii this map of the world, -pon which science delineates the zodiac of empires and the isothermal axis of progress! We have our homes around the crnfru of tliis our northern continent, the rnitir of our continental Union, the «'?(0'cof the Mississipjii basin. Behold, upon the right hand, tho European continent, with its 200,000,000 of people ; it slopes towards our eastern seaboard and faces towards the west ! Behold, upon the left hand, tho continent of Or'u'ntiil Add and its islands, with its population of 050,000,000 ; it slopes towards our western seaboard and faces to the cast! These external continents, dividing between them the population of the world, })oth face America and face one another across America. Wo occupy tho middle space between them, and at once separate them asunder and connect them together. From Paris to Pekin, travelling by our I !l h !::■! 176 AI'PEXVIX. ! I'i: .'til threshold, is Imt a jounii'y of 1(1,0(10 miles. It liisccts tli(> teiiiiicnite zone — it is the line of himl ami way travi'l of niaukiiid. But a faet of jirol'ouiid siunifiiaiiee to us, revealed liy jihysical geng- rajiliy. reuiaius to he eoiisidered. It is aloiiu' the axis of the isotln niinl zoitc of the Xortheni Heuiis]ihere. that the i>rinei[iles of reveal"d civiliza- tiou make the ciroiit of the j:lohe. This Isntlnrnud r.oiie defleets from the jreofrraiihieal /one (which is a fiat section of the silohe), umhdatini; to the north and to the south, to preserve a constant identity of tem|ieratiU('. Undt'r the influence of the warm iiKin'fiiiir climates, it rises IuliIi mIidvo the 40th dejiTce of latitude ; under the influence of the cnntinriitnl i-UkkiUs, it is depressed to the soutli of the 40th dejiree. With what lie liistdrv of six thousand years iiracticall}' demonstrates, the jiroofs of pliysica! geography agree. Along this axis have arisen successively the great cities of China and of India, of Baliylon, Jerusalem, Athens, I?ome, Paris, London, in tlio older continents— upon our continent, the seahoard cities. New York, Philadi'l]ihia, and Baltimore; Pittsburg. Cincinnati, and St. Louis. The channel ol' the Missoiiri is its onward track to us: whence it passes liy the Kansas basins, the Sweetwater, Snake Biver, ami the Columliia, to Vancouver's Island, upon the North Pacific shore. We, then, the pcop/c of ihr centre, are upon the lines of intense and intelligent energy, where civilization lias its largest field, its highest devel- opments, its inspired form. Along tliis line have come, from the plateau of Syria, our religion, our sciences, our civilization, our social manners, our arts and agriculture, the horse, our articles of food and raiment ; and here is the eteriud fire from which is rekindled, when it has exjiired, the .spirit of the ■• unconcjuerable mind, and freedom's holy flame. " We have seen depart a perverse generation, distinguidied by civic discord. An unscrupulous senboanl power has aspired to found a repub- lic of tlie No. lIi; a repuljlie of the South; a republic of the Pacific shores. A nefarious federal policy, operating for forty years, has occluded with savages and deserts the delicious central ri'gion of the ])rairies, the great plains, the plateau, and the mountains. The physical geography of our country has been ofhcially caricatured, concealed, and maligned. The solid continental republic, founded in ITTd and completed in 1787, has Ijeen nullified by interpolated monarchies. The Ijditil si/strm has cru.'<hed and jilundercd the continental jieoi>le with the brutalizing pressun; of nieditwal feudalism. The IiiiJIiiH Hi/ateni has walled u]). as in a Bastile, the whole central meridian of our continent. Forced out artificially upon tlie flanks, we liavc seen our pioneer energies ri driv<'ii in fragi into .Nliuue.'^ot: States. i.-^olatiM centre, an imn Foreign \v:i liaiisti'd. fcdcr till' fctleral ct niunarchical s the continent. yi,r tlie « every form (j suicidally ton The found; an invisible e ju'tually m 'n: and, lost to tl the infuriatei Our great regenerating It is to th To exalt thei Plateau to tl heading the With us a ized by the ] vindicated ai Let us coi mission of i complete. tlt^ I )>isccts the t.'ini„.r;,te ikiiid. iilcd Iiy jiliysic-il -(.„g. axis of the ixnthi rmnl Ics of n«vciil"(l civiliza- / ~.<>)ie doflccts fniiii tlie '»(■), uiidiiliitiiii:- t(i tho y (if tciii]icriitinv. ti's, it riso.s liidi iil.iivo ic continnititl tUnititrs With wliiit lie Iiistdi-v 111" jirodfs (pf jjliysjivil cat cities uf Cliina and I'aris, London, in tho 11(1 cities, N(;w Yorlc, i, and St. Lonis. TIio : wlu'iicc it jiasscs by , and tho Colunihia, tu c lines of intense jmd field, its liijiliest devel- cunio, from the ]iiafeau in, our social niaiuiers. tb(jd and raiment ; and licii it has cxjiired, tho holy fianio."' Jistinguished hy eivic •ired to found a reimh- 'piiblie of the Pacific rty years, has occhided un of the prairies, the riKE-S PEAK ASD THE SIEUHA SAX JUAX. r driven in frafiineiits into Florida, into Texas, into California, into Orejion. intii Minnesota. We behold on the one hand a tier of artilici d seaboard States, i.-iolatcd upon the maritime slope ; on the other hand, tiie eoi;tinental centre, a II immense disc of howling: wilder iiess. Foreii:!! wars have been waned, federal rev enues and patnmaire ex- hausted, federal law and power stretched out to every di'vice of tyranny, th(t federal eonstitution violated in every .sacr(;d prineijile, to erect this monarchical .^'aboard power, and estiibli.sh it in perpetual dominance over the continent. For llie autre, civil wars, civil discords, false jreouraphy, calunmies, every form of meretricious and deceptive politieal iigitation, have been suicidally fomented. Tile foundations of the Union, lost in the c^entre and scattered around an invisible circumference : the Union it.self, incessantly a.ssailed and per- petually ni 'tiaced : has seemed to apjtroach the twiliuht of its existence, and, lost to the u'uardian care of the people, Inis been hi suspense between the infuriated pa.ssions of extreme sectional fanatics. Our fireat country demands a period of stern virtue, of holy zeal, of nweneratinu' jiatriotism, of dv!Voted citizens. Tf is to the people of tlie i^reat central State of Missouri that I spca':. To exalt their intrepid enthusiasm is my aim. Open the track acro.ss the Plateau to the other sea, and we are absolutely the leaders of the world, heading' the colunni to the Oriental shores. With us are the continental (Uigles and the continental cause, immortal- ized by the jmrity of Washington, illuminated by the wisdom of Jefferson, vindicated and I'estored by the illustrious Jackson. Let us condense around these caj:;les and advance. It is the predestined mission of mankind, confided to America to fulfil, to our generation to complete. Night wnnes, the vaitors round tho mountn'-s curled Burst into morn, and light awakes tho world ! I ofllicially caricatured, ihlic, founded in \'~{\ (dated momirchies. ho continental people 1, ilc, the whole central sn our pioneer energies 12 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMORANDA ON THE PACIFIC RAILROAD. CHAPTER I. m Inas.mucu as tlio fit'iioral mind yecins willing; to entertain with favor and jndj^e candidly what maybe truthfully said of a National Rail- road TO THE Pacific, and everywhere is indicated a growing taste for whatever may solidly enhance the j)rosj>erity of our cotitlncntnl system, I liave condensed into these few chapters the general views resulting from a long experience. This subject touches profoundly all the existing relations of the human family, connecting tlnrr continents, and unites together, by a short line o^ ten tlioumiid vii/ex, the ffiousiiml millions of j)eople inhabiting Ht koi'k, Amkuica, and Asia. This sliort line traverses the middle of tin; north temperate zone, perforating nine-tenths of the land, the jjopulation, the production, and the consumption of the world. I say, it is neci'ssary lor one who will write with dignity upon such a subject, so searching and omnipotent, to gras}) boldly its immonse scope of matter; to rely upon 'solid statistics; to face and l)ravc old opinions; to repudiate the rul)bisli into winch thousands of years of staggering ami abortive efforts have submerged it ; and to condense it to the tangible form of propositions, which may be pracliaillij handled for a final solu- tion. The shortest trail whereby the Incal works, now on hand and proposed, may be understood, the public- judgment matured, and opinion instriicteil and concentrated f(ir (itfion, is to condense by rigid analysis, and draw into one view, the nudtitudinous facts of geography, commerce, politics, and j)rogre,ss under which the American people arc so rapidly erecting a i<yprt iiir (hmorrntlc rrpii/i/irav rmpirr, and fitting it to the surface of the northern American continent and islands. And fraf, must be emancipated from the dogmatic European writers (who, with Procrustean desjiotism, r" , up all other portions of the globe to fit their own pigmy theories) the synnnetrical and sublime gcorimph- tcal iiliin of our continent. 178 1 "1 1 if JHEMOItASD.\ OX rilE IWCIFIC /{AlfJlOAP. 179 THE PACIFIC Tliis, hcrotoforo veiled from the pul)lic mind l)y every furin of'eontdr- tion, is rc'dueible to an exnet system, e:isily uiiderstdod and eternal. The rftrw jreiifrraiihical form in wliieli onr enntinent is m()nld<'(l : tiie eontrast of all the otliei-s : makes a new and orlijimil jrrandeiir of society, not oidy possible, but compulsory upon us. To disinfect ourselves of inane nepotism to Europe in other tliiiiL's as we have done in jiolities : to ponder boldly on ourselves and our iiiimtimi. and develop an indiL'eiious dignity — to appreciate Ai'in/ic science, civilization, conunercc, and pojiulation — these are eHueii/inl preparatory steps to which we must tone our minds. This, then, is the simple jilan of North America: — The Ani)?;s, having' traversed the whole lenj:th of S'ni/h America. i)assini:C out from the Istbnui.s of Tehuantepee, continue to follow, luichaufrt'd in chai'acter, the ]'acific shore of North America clear up to nehrin<r's Strait. Known successively !is the Cordillera.s of Anabuac in .Mexico. Sfcrra Nevada in California, and Ca.scade Mountains in Oreiron, it is all aloni; the .same mirlfi nms and volcanic Andks. It lias a narrow base waslied on tlic west by the tide ; immense altitude; sunnnits of perpetual snow; and is formed of the columnar vulcan rock, or a molten mass of lava. Between this continuous eseaqiment of rock and the sea, is the mm-i- time rcjiion of the Pacific, which contains all the present American jiopu- lation residin<r in California and Orejron. ujion the smaller rivers run- niii2 directly into the sea, and j)arallel to one; another. It resembles, and is the counterpart of, the inan'tiinr Atlantic declivity; which contains the of<l thirtnn Stiifcs, ami which is shut off from tlie valleys of the Mississii))ii and St. Lawrence by the AUcfrhanies. But, at the Isthmus of Tehuantepee, the AxDKS bifurcates, throwing alon<4 the coa.st of the Mexican (!ulf the great C(ir<l!Vtr<i of t/ic Sirrra .]fii(l)p, which opens rapidly from the Andes, as the continent widens. This a.ssumes in our territory the name of Jiocki/ Mmintinni^^ and traverses north to the shores of the Arctic Sea. It is some 1400 miles a))art from, and to the faxt of, the Andes, and forms the primary ih'rli/c, the '• i/iror- tta nqvarvm' of Anu'rica. The absolute scpardte existence of these tirn prodigious CoRDILLERAS, must remain distinctly in the mind, if anyl)ody intends to understand Ameriatn f)<'>>firitiiln/. The interval between them, from end to end. is occupied by the Pl.\- TE.vi: OF THE Table Lands, on which are alike the cities of Mexico, Chihuahua, and the Mormon city of the Salt Lake. This Pi-ATEAU of the Table L.vnds is two-sevenths of tlie surface of North America : is some (JIJOO feet elevat4'd above the external oceans ; and gives as complete a •i i <\'.k 180 Ai'i'i:sinx. si'pa.ation betweon the Cohdilleras on tlio flanks, as iloes tlic Atlantic wIkisc wators mil Lcitwccn the Alleuhanics and the Aljis. Tims that side of the Anieiiean continent whieh may he defined to front Asia, and sheds its waters in that direction, has these i'onr cli;n'ac- teristie divisions: — th(< Duirifinir front; the A.NDKS ; the I'l.ATEAU op TI!I;Taiu,K JiANDs; and the SlKUltA >Iai»RK, all extendinu' the wliolo lengtli from kdhI/i to narth. jiarallel to one another, and covering in the agiiregate twa-fifllix of its whole area. These two continuous ^)/-/H«r/_yinonnta in chains define tliomselves as the ^Vestkux and the Eastern CunHlli ms. The remaining t/irci-ji/'t/i.t of the continent sheds its waters towards the Atlantic. Hen; too the same siddime grandeur and simplicity of jilan are discern ihle. From the Si(rr(i Mtnlic, the whole continent descends to the seas hy immense planes, rest'mliling the glacis of a fortress, or a flat- tened octagonal house-roof. This plane, once the lied of immense oceans, (d' which the 8ierra Madrc was the shore, and hevelled liy the action of the watery niass, now forms the gentle slope down which descend, to rejilenish the oceans, the stnplus waters of the Sirmt Mnlrc and the plane itself. Guttered everywhere by these descending water-courses, seanung its surface as innumerably as the veins which carry liack the blood to the human lu'art, these aipieous channels flow down tlu! different faces of the great plane, proportiont'd in length and size to the distances to be traversed. Thus, down the snndler face, which fronts the 3Iexican Gulf, — at jire.sent comjireheiided in Texas. — run the lowi'V Del Norte, the Nueces, Cokirado, Trinity, and Brazos. Down the (jrund edsfcrn front, called by us the " Great Prairie l^lains,' descend the l\ed lUver of liouisiana, the Canadian, Arkan.sas, and Kan.sas, tlu' Platte (with its three forks), and the siddime ^Missouri itself. All of these, running due 'Y(,s7, parallel to one another, very straight and without rapids, are received into the great cmtntl troiujli, the IMissi.ssipi'i, which runs from nortli to south across their direction, and their aecumidated waters are discharged into the Gulf. From the Sixme foad point with the 3Iissouri, radiate two fronts. The one is drained by the system of rivers tributary to the Saskatchewan, (jpening to the imrt/icast, and widening to endjrace the immense inland sea of Hudson Bay. The other is upon the Athabasca or ^IcKenzic liiver, sloping due north, and occupying the vast hi/perlntrtan rtgmi stretching to the Arctic Sea. From an elevated swell ni the plane between the ^lissouri and Sas- katchewan, protruding from the Si'-rra Mudrc eastwardly along the 4l)th MEMOIl.WPA OX THE PACinc HMI.KOM). 181 U'fiiio thi'iusi'lvL's iis tlie its w:it('rs tiiwiirds iho ami siiiijilicity nf jilmi t- eiiiitiiK'iit (K'^cciidsto t' a lurtre.ss, or a ilat- vliicli the Sierra Madn- vatcrv mass, ikiw loMuti till' iKraiis, till' siir]ilii.s Giitti'i-('(1 overvwliuro I'fiice as iiiminicrahlv as 11 heart, these a(|iieiius I'laiie, liroiiurtiiiiied in ho 3Ie.\ieaii Gulf, — at Del Norte, the Nueees, Great Prairie Plains,' Arkansas, and Kansas, ilissouri itself. All of y straij^iit and without lie ^Iississippi, which iiid their aeeuniulated liate two fronts. The to tlie Saskatchewan, ■e the immense inland thahasea or McKenzie st Jii/pi.'rLortiiii r<(jivH (he ^Missouri and Sas- wardly along (lie 40th degree, alioiit "(K) miles, issue the waters of the I'liftn- Mi.fsii<^ijq,i mnl ,SV. LiiinijiiT. The first ji'oes directly south to scoiiroiit ihv /imu/li nf tlie continent. TMie latter flows down tlie narmw hasin nf tlie l;ik( d t' leir river St. liawreiiee, to where the glacis reaches the sea and f'orins the short (f the uulf of that nam Tlius, from the dividini; wall of the Si' rni Mmlii . the continent de- scends uninterruptedly to the Gulf: tlu' North Atlantic; and the Arctic Seas. The jierfect ji'entlene.ss of this descent, scarcely distiiiiKiisliaMe from a level, is iierce]itilile from the rivers, which are entirely free from rajiids and everywlien^ naviuahle when water is sufficient in their lied-. The sublimest exaiujile is the watery surface of the .Missoi ui. whose li(|iiid jilane, di]niii:i;- liy iierhajis tJiirfrcH inches to the mile, has an nii- nifHt'd uniformity of descent tlironyfi its whole course of oOOd miles to the .sea. jilete this izcii.iii'aiihical delineation, there rises all But to rendei C(..ll along the Atlantic, and parallel with its shore, the dividing range of the Alleghany, uiiintcrruiited from IJaton Kouge to the (jlulf of St. Lawrence. External to this is the narrow Kriilmiinl ilaUrilij whicli first received the European settlements, and still holds the densest jiojudation : Imt !lh villi III. a reverse ijhirtK descends to the Mississijtpi and St. Lawrence, filled with States to the central trough of the continent. Practieaily, the /lushis of these great rivers are narrowed to mere jiasses at their mouths by the points of tlie mountain diains which fence them from the sea, expanding to an immense breadth in the interior, and fading into one another, where they touch, by prairie divides of imperceptible elevation. They form together one vast bowl, whose waters flow from tlu; circtunference near the seas, inwards, to centres which are near and already connected by art as at Chicago. This bowl or jilain is everywhere cidcKi'coiix, being paved beneath the soil with an undulating covering of limestone, as is a frozen lake with one of ice. To recajiitulate and grave it upon the mind : as witli the style where- with t]u> artist cuts into steel the deeply shaded lines of a picture : the whole .l^Anf^'c side of the continent la mie ('«/tv/*r'^(/,s' jilain of many fronts. Each front has a mighty system of arteries, demonstrating its gradual slope, and carrying its surplus waters to the sea. Yet by the rising of the eastern halves of the basins against the Atlantic barriers it is also a sublime bowl, into which the waters have first a concentrie direction, as they accumulate into the /miii/lin that conduct them to the sea. The superlative wonder about this is, that here, in Xoiih Aniiricn, is rolled out in one uniform exjianse of 2,800,1)00 square miles, an area of |! ;i W ' :?? 182 APPEXDIX. I ^ HI arable land equivalent in siufaco to the aggroj^ate of the valleys of the other continents, wliich are small, sinjilc, and isolated. iYo/rorc/', the iiitorlafinjiof the rivers forms ovisry where a eomplcto sys- tem of navijiation : blended into one by |inblie \V((rks of the easiest cdii- struetion ; and forming;', by tliuir double banks, n ahon'-liiie eijiial in (.ittnt to theciHisfs of (til the ovrdiis. To master the yi'oi/rdp/iiml pnrtrnlt of our eontinent thus in its unity of system, is mrrssdn/ to every American eitizen — as necessary, as it is to understand the radical princiiiles of the Federal Government over it, and of jiolitieal society. Our country is immcnavlij grand, and to understand it in its simple grandeur, it is not an extravagance, but is a homcs|iun matter-of-fact duty. If we flinch from i\\\, duty, we recede from the divine mi.ssion chalked out for us by the Creator's luuul, sink below the dignity of our ancestors, and fall into the decrepitude of the voluntary, illiterate, and emasculate siilnjects of Kurope. To enforce these truths with yet greater stringency, ami to tempt or la.sh the jwpular mind out of its cringing and criminal torpidity, .still another illustratioi remains of the j)araniount sigidficanee to us of (jia- yniji/u'cal facts. This is the cmttrast b tweeu our own and the other i'our continents. Euttoi'E, the smallest of the grand divisions of the land, contains in its centre the icy masses of the Alps ; from round their declivities rddlntc the large rivers of that continent ; the Danube directly east to tiie Euxine ; the Po and Khone south to the Mediterranean ; the llhine to the Nortliern Ocean. Walled off by the Pyrenees and Carp-'lhians, divergent and isolated, are the Tagus, the Elbe, and other sing' rivers, affluents of the Baltic, the Atlantic, the Mediterranean, and the Kuxine. Descending y/'(<»i common radiant points, and diverging everyway from one another, no {utercommHitication exists between the rivers of Europe: navigation is petty and feeble: nor have art and couunerce, during many centuries, united so many small valleys, remotely isolated by impenetrable barriers. Hence upon each river dwells a distinct people, differing from all the rest in race, language, habits, and interests. Though often politically amalgamated by eoncjuest, they again relapse into fragnujnts from iiniate (/!'( )(/!■< I jt/u'c(tl incoherence. The history of these nations is a story of jier- l)etual war ; of nmtual extermination ; and an ai)])idling dramatic cata- logue of a few splendid tyrainiies, crushing multitudinous millions of submissive and unchronicled serfs. .\fE.VO/{A\nA ox THE PACIFIC KAILROAD. 183 Exactly similar to Europe. thoUL'li ;.'nuulor in size and pupulatinn. is Asia. Frmn the stuiKMulous central harrier of the Himalayas nm the four pvat rivei-s of China, due »a,s7, to (lisehar;:e themselves hcueath the risinir sun: towards the .•";»/// run the rivers of Cochin China, the dauires. and the Indus: towards the »rr.N7. the rivers of the Caspian: and iimtli tliroUL'h Si/iiii'ti to the Arctic Seas, many rivers of the first maj:nitude. ])ariiii; tifty centuries, as now. the Aljis and Himalaya ^lountains have proveil insuperable harriei-s to the anialiramation of the nations amund their bases and dwellintr in the valleys which radiate from their slojies. The continent of Akuica, as far as we know the details of its surface, is even more tluin these split into di.xjointed frajrments. Such also, in a less deuTce. is SiHTll A.MEltlCA. Thus, whilst Xurthini Ann rica opens towards heaven in an expanded bowl to receive and fu.se harmoniously whatever enters within its rim: so each of the other continents, jiresentinir a bowl reversed, scatters every- thinir from a central apex into radiant distraction. Political empires and societies have in all ages conformed them.selves to these emphatic gtiKjydphicitl fads. The American Republic is then pmlisfini'il to e.^pand and fit itself to the continent. Much is uncertain, yet throuuh all the vici.ssitudes of the fiifinr, this much of eternal truth is discernible : In geoirraphy the aii- titlii'gi's of the Old World, in .«ociety it is and will be the rcvrrnr. Xorth Ainiricii will rajiidly attain to a pojjulation e((uallini^ that of the rest of the world combined: forming a single people, identical in manners, language, customs, and impulses: preserving the same civiliza- tion, the same religion : imbued with the same opinions, and having the same political liberties. Of this we have two illustrations now under our eye : the one passing away, the other advancing. The aboriginal Indian race, among whom, from Darien to the Estjuimaux. and from Florida to Vancouver's Island, exists a great identity in their hair, comj)Iexion, features, stature, and language. And secmul. in the instinctive fusion into one language, and one new race, of immigrant Oermans, English, French, and Spanish, whose individuality is obliterated in a single generation ! It is thus that tlie holy ipiestion of our Union lies in the bosom of nnf.iire : its perj)etuity in the hearts of a great democratic people, iud)ued with an understanding and austere reverence for her eternal pnmiptings and ordinances. It lies not in the trivial temporalities of political taxation, Afru'iin sldirri/. loctd power, or the nostrums of oratore however eminent. It is the truth, established by sci'cnci'. and not the deductions of meta- physics, with which the people must fortify themselves. 184 APPEXDIX. As |i()\vc'r loidfs in the indiilf and the siiffragr is its exercise, with tlu'm al.N) must reside inteilijieiit and wise eounsel. To lie eertain that the great iirin(i|iles nn wiiich they rely tn strengthen and jn iiictuatt' linnian rigiits, are the trutlit'nl deiluetions nt' cxnit sci< iiri\, ntnl !ii Imninntij vif/i iiiituir, is tlic individual duty of tlie citizen. To reject what is otherwise, is the only safety I'roni usurjiafion and tyranny. To assert that the mass ari! deficient in intelligence to e(ini]irelien(l and use familiarly t/ic ti iif/i of »<■!< nee. is the language of tyrants and iitifictly false. Behold an eternal exanijile of universal dissemination and faniiliur use of acitiitijic ti'itthtt. The aljihahet of tuciifi/six Irtttrn and the numerals of tai /!;/iiris are the uiost jirofound, conden.sed, and sublime forms of abstract truth which science lias or can give to the liuman race. How uiany ages and liuw great a lass of intellectual analysis and research consumed it.self to reach this alistract (y((//(/t'j>w.'/(tt' of truth, has not come to us with the inventions themselves. At sight of a volume printed, or a newspaper, the intelligent sa\age is crushed with a sense of desjiair. not knowing that a few years of study will render intelligihle to him this ma.ss of clniotic my.stery. The child of civilized society, on the contrary, commencing with the aljilialjct which science has discovered and be((ueathed, ocaj'ts it tltromjli faith, cuni- bines letters into syllables, syllables into words, words into sentences, and has opened to him, by an easy ascent, the knowledge which written lan- guage has accumulated and perpetuated since its invention, some thousands of years ago. Believing tlnit abstract truth, wherever reached in other departments of human afl'airs — ax fur instaitcc in gcoyraphy — may, in like maimer as the alphabet, be universally received, trusted, and used by the iieo])le, I have written these remarks and constructed the map which accompanies them. They agree with the speculations of the ncientifc writers whom I have been able to consult, especially Humboldt and Jefl'erson. If this abstract of simjile <iri)gr<iplilc(d elements l)e trutli, then should they stand the basis of political reason, as the Ten Comuiandmeiits stand in the field of religion. Admitted to be true, the future of tlie A.mkhi- CAN Bepl'HLIC, ex])anding to tit the continent, as the human foot within a slioe, and brightening tlie world with its radiance, is familiarly dis- cernible. The general continental gcngvaphi/, filling up the details of its surface, as the flcsli and muscles cover the human skeleton, will readily be con- ceived ill the mind, and assume order and symmetry. Variety of climates and of altitude : the consetjueut distribution of indus- ' ) m/-:m()/i.\.\1'.\ i>\ Till: i-m/i ir u.mi.udmk 1S5 .'/' is its exorciso, with I'l. To lie rcrtiiiii tlijit ij;llu'ii 1111(1 ]M rpiitiiitu To rcjtrl \vli;ii is >raiiiiy. ice to e(iiii]in]irii(l iiiid r tyraiils iind |i(if,.,.tly iiiiiiiiitidii :iii(i liiiiiilijir Ills (if t( II jiijitri)!. iire 'f abstract tnitii wiiidi )W many ajivs and how onsuuicd itself to reach us with the iiiveiitiuiis le inteilijiciit stnage is t a few years of study mystery. The child of :li tlie al]dial)et wliich V tUrouijh faith, cdin- rds into sentences, and tlji,e wliieh written hiii- ention, some tliousiinds 1 in other deiiartnieiits iiiay, ill like manner as used by the jieojile, I a]» which aceompani(\s -wntijic writers wliimi iii Jefl'erson. be truth, then should Commandments stand future of the A.mkki- lio liumaii f(Hit. within ice, is familiarly dis- details of its surfiicc, I, will readily he con- try : the immense commerce which will adju.-t the interchanges nt' so vast irk- distributiou of indus- tli< tl II V ill !i Mii'lacc, so Variously iicciijmiiI ; the uniiiii oy ]iulilic »vci artcriis deneeiidiii;; o|iiMi.-ite sluiic- : the connections with the external coiiliiieiits : and the forms of States, risiii" consecutively till they shall imnilier (ink iir.NDRKl): All these successive events becoinc the ciiirciit crcatiipiis nf a natural order :if |iroi;rtss, and will be the easy (Icdiicliniis uf exact ealculatiou of tiuu^ from statistical data. To com. fnally to solve the (juestion of the construction uf the I'dci/ic Riiiliiitnl, it is necessary to aiialy/e the jireseiit condition of c<ininierce, both of iiur own and external countries: liyw far it is friendly or hostile to the imniense modificatimis such a new mute will engender: to probe the temper and i'orce of political power and jealousies: to reason out and balance the Irieiidly and hostile elements that bear upon it : and finally, to subject to the most searching scrutiny thi; /Diifii/ni/iliicuf character of the immense space of our continent interrupted by the •• Plateau of tlie Table liiinds," the great mountain ranges of the Sit^rra Madre, and the Andes, with their external slopes. To such a com])Ieto discussion, this is prelimiiiiiry. C II APT Eli IT. I HAVE :nentioned in the j)recediiig chapter, in which I end(^avored to delineate, in a condensed form, the ab.stract tjaiyraphical chiiniils of our continent, that I had coiniiiled, with great labor, a map, exhibiting to the eye, as it were in daguerreotyiie, what is so difticult to make comiu'ehensi- blc in writing to the popular mind. In truth, this simple classification has long ago suggested itself to mc, resulting from observations made and facts collected during immense jour- neys, which I liave made out to the rim of the continent, on all its coasts — sometimes as a S(jlitary pioneer, and at others in the military service. These wanderings have extended over thirty years of time, and more than one hundred thousand miles ! X'ncertiiin as to the accuracy of these facts, long rendered indistinct and liazy by the vastuess of the details — findirg myself everywhere repelled by the soi-dimutt learned in science and politics; and being, also, without the iiecuniary means to reach f/ie jiroji/r. it is only now that I venture to apjicar before them. Neither do I rely upon my own reflections exclusively. 183 AITEMilX. The wiiiM 1ms Iiitcly received from tlic Icjinu'fl Tliiiiilioldt Ills tW" works, " (ViMiiiw" and "Tile Aspeets of Nature." This ]ire-eniiiieiit vetenm in Bcieiiee eoimneiicud isixty years aj;o to hive and condense the truths tinit he now i:ives u.s in these small volumes. Nine years were then j:ivcii hy him to c.\|iloration and .stmly anions the J/k/ci of Smtl/i Anuiini mid Mi.iica, and sulisci|uently ten years ainon^' the Himalayas of Central Asia. It is only now, ai the ap' of ilijhli/ years, that ho ventures to jrivu to tin,' world the condensed ijiinitiMi'iia: uf ii wliole life of travel, intense study, riuid analysis, and meditation. Thou;;h not clearly known to liim (for he has not visited our country. or been able to collect the material, to supply this deliciency, from others). he luLs, in his delineations of I'eru and Mexico, exactly sketched our own Andes in California and Oregon. His descriptions of the jiTcat l>r,.\TK.\l X of Central Asia, the Caspian kSea, and Thibet, with their snrroundin;; mountain chains, applied to our continent, solve for us the enijinia of our own jieo}.'raphy. Indeed, if the continent of Asia be turned at rii.dit anj,des, .so that Siberia should fiice the ri.sin,L' sun, it would almost exactly resemble a ' "xplain all North America included between the ti<iii<ih of the Mississipjii and tin- I'acifif. In short, in these small volumes — ■• Notes on A'iruinia" and " Cosmos' — of the brave apostles of truth, Jefferson and Humboldt, — in the.se wc luive conden.sed facts enouf;h to iruiile us to the most distinct and perfect solution of the whole scluane of our own confiiitiifd/ i/iui/niii/i//. To resume, then, the discussion o\' giiiffraphmil J'<iil». and approach cau- tiously, stej) by step, the location nuide by nature for the Conti.nkntal Raim^oaii, we must have clearly in the mind the j;reat central crest of the SiKititA ]Ma1)RK, and the two sides of the continent .sloping on either hand to the oceans. Very many fjreat rivers, burstinjj; from the e:istern mountain flank, descend, without rajiids, by the ^lissi.ssipjii to the (lulf; by the St. Lawrence to tlie North Atlantic. Kven the Alle<;hanies. having but 2(I0(( feet elevation, pri'sent but a secondary ol)stacle. Abundant routes exist, therefore, whereby a railroad may pass up from the cnsfcni coa.st line of the continent to the flanks of the SiKHRA Madkk. "Whatever slijjht elevations may exist in the general surface, they are all perforated successively by continuous rivers, whose banks offer water- grades uninterrupted during the whole ascent. i\ o difficult)/ here presents itself. Bui " that side of the Anun'iean continent which may be defined to front Asia, and sheds its waters in that direction, lias these four charac- teristic divisions : the mo r it i me front, the Andks, the PLATEAU of THE Table Lands, and the Sierra Madke; all extending the whole length, MEMOItAShA O.V TI'E IWriflf llMl.lloMt. 187 "iilMiIdt lii.s twi. \M,ik.M, 'iv-eiiiiiiciit vctcniti in 'i'l«''i-<«' llic iniths that ■< Wfl-l- tlicii -ivrti l,v Siiitlh Aiiuriiii I, lid iiiialiip.s „f C,.,,!,.;,! It lio venturer to uiv,. if'o of fravi'I, iiitoiL^e 't vitiited our cdiiiitry, liii<'iicy, (Vdin oflunin), •tly .skctclicd (iiir dwn trill Asia, the (".opja,, cliains, iii.]i|i,.,l (,, ,„„. '1'1'y- Intlird, if tl„. K Siberia .should I'kv ' "xplaiii all X,„(h ^il'I'i and tlio Pauitic. iiiia" and •' C.isuio.s" inilidldt, — in (licsc wu ■*t distinct and jicrlkt •( >/t''ii/rii/i/i//. '■/*■. and a]i|ir(iii(Ii cini- or tlle C(».\TI.\K.\TAL Jat central ercst i if the 'nt nlojiinji- (III cither iii.u: from tli(> c.istcni <si.s.si|i])i to the (lidf; Alleghanies. luiviii"' acle. ad may pass nji from tlu'SiKKUA 3Iai»ke. surfaee, they are all banks offer water- 'ifficulty here presents 1 n)ay be defined to f' these four charae- e PlATKAU (IF THE ig tlie whole length, from smith to north, ]iiirallel to one another, and eovering, in the ajrirre- wate, two-lifths of it.s whole area." Tile iiiiin'tiiiir front is narrow, has many small streams in which ilu^ flowing tide reaches the lia.se of the An'UKS. and |iresents no obstacles of any signiticaiice. Through the /('•/* Cordilleras, the .\m»ks. ami the J^IKIiUA .M.MtHK, which H.jiik and elevate themselves above the level of tlic TAiti.F. liA.NDS, are many ]ias.ses adniittiiig of the pa.ssiige of rail- roads, but merely from tin? otitsidi! on to the Taiilc liands within. The T.Mir.K li.VMis are. liowevcr, ribbed by latitudinal ranges of moun- tains, of imnu'n.se bulk and iicight. The solutimi, therefore, condenses itself to the discovery of a siii</le line, whereby the Sierra Madrc, the ribs of the Tahi.k Lands, the lofty crest of the Andes, and its aiirupt western wall, may all be continuously and eon.secutively overcome, surmounted, or evaded. 1 ((uote from a memoir given to the public by myself, some years ago, this description of the Table Lands ; — The di.stanco to the I'acific from the top of the Sierra ^ladre (Rocky Mountains), where you leave behind the waters flowing to the Atlantic, is everywhere some lotIO miles. The ti>p<Kjr<ii>li!ttil characti'r of this ultramDntiine region is very grand and characteristic. It is identical with the region at the .sources of the J^a Plata, Amazon, and Magdaleiia, of South America, but more immense. Sketched by its great outlines it is simply this : The chain of the Andes, debouching north from the /si7; *,/*.,•■, opens like the letter Y into two primary chains (Cordilleras). On tlic right, the Sii'rra Madre, trending along the coast of the Mexican (iulf, divides the Northern Continent .ilmost centrally, forming an unbroken water-shed to Behrini^s Strait. On the left, the Andes folhjws tlie coast of the I'acific, war|is around tlictJulf of California, and, jiassing along the coast of California and Oregon (under the name of Sitirra Nevada), txirminates also near Behring's Strait. The immense interval between tlie.se chains is a succession of mtra- montane liasins, srceii in number, and ranging from .south to north. The whole forms the great Plateau of the Table Lands. First, is the " Basin of the City of Jlexico," receiving the interior drainage of both Cordilleras, which waters,, having no outlet to either ocean, are dispersed again by evaporation. Second, the " Bolson do Majiimi," collecting into the Laguna the streams draining many States, from San Luis Potosi to Coahuila, also without any outflow to either ocean. Third, the " Basin of the Del Norte," who.se va.st a'-ea feeds the llio 188 M>i'i:.\i)ix. "\ del Norte, the Coiu'lios, and IV'fus. Tlu'so, conecntratod iiitd tlic Rio Graiulf di'l Nnrto, lieliiiid the Sierra Maiire, have, hy tlieir >iiiited vipIuiiic. bur.-it tiinmgh it.s wall and round ati outlet towards the Atlanlic The yco/o^/ca^ charaeter of tliis basin, its altitude, its eontijiuration and incaiity all assign it this position, as distinguishing it from all others eontriliutiiiL' their waters to the Atlantie. Fourth, the '• Basin of the Great Colorado of the West." This im- mense basin embraces above the great rivers Rio Verde and Rio (Jraiidi', whose confluent waters, penetrating tlie mighty Cordillera of the Amies athwart, from base to base, dischavge themselves into the (lulf of Califdr- nia. Into this sublime gorge {the Oinon of th.c Colorado) the liuniau eye has never swept for an interval of 575 miles. So stern a character does Nature assume wliere such stupendous mountains resist the passage of sucli mighty rivers. Fifth, the '' B;isiu of the Great Salt Lake," like the Ca.sjiian of Asia, containing many small basins within one great rim, and losing its scattered waters by evaporation, has no outflow to citlier ocean. Sixth, the "Basin of the Columbia," lying across the northern flanks of the two last, and grand above them all in position and configuration. Many great rivers, besides the Snake and Upper Columbia, descend from the great arc of the Sierra Madre, where it circles towards the northwest from 43° to 52°, flow from e<i)it to iccst and eoncentra'^j above the Cas- cades into a single trunk. This here strikes the mighty Cordillera of the Andes (narrowed to one ridge), and di.sgorges itself through this sublime pass at once into the open Pacific. It is licrc^ descending by the grade of this river the whole distance from tlie rim of the Valley of the ^Mississippi, and through the Andes to the Pacific, that the great debouch of the American Continent towards the West is found; and here will be the pathway of fature generations of the New World, as tlie people of the Old W^orld pass down the Mediterranean and out by Gibraltar. Above, the " Basin of Frazer River" forms a seventh of the Taiu.k Lands. This has burst a cafion through the Andes, and, like the fourth and sixth basins, sends its waters to the Pa^-ific. With the geography of the more northern region we are imperfectly acquainted, knowing, how- ever, that from I'uget Sound to Belu'ing's Strait the wall of the Andes forms the beach itself of the Pacific, whilst the Sierra Madre forms the western rim of tlie basins of the Saskatchewan of Hudson Bay, and the Athabasca of the Arctic Seas. Thus, then, briefly we arrive at this great cardinal department of the geography of the continent, viz. ; the Tahi.k Lands, — being a longitudi- Ml'JM01!A.\J).\ 0.\ THE I'ACIFK; JiA ff.HO.i /). 189 Iio Wfst." This i,„. '•'nlc and Ki,i (ii;,,i(i,., |>nlillcra of tln' Andes |to the fi!iilt'(d'(';dii;,i- '•'/"i-aJo) tlio liiiiiian So .steni a cliaractcr aiiis resiist the passatre the Cii.sjiiaii of Asia, iiid losing its sc-attoivd in. ■s tlie nortlu'i-n flanks Ion and confiiiuration. ilundjja, descond from towards tht; northwest rurii'3 above the (hn- iglity Cordillera of the ' tlirougli this siihliuie le whole distance from igh the Anrles to the 'ontinent towards the lire generations of the iN'Ji the Mediterranean '■mtfh of tlie Taiu.k i, and. like the fourth ith the geograjihy of inted, knowing, liow- ic wall of the Andes ra Madre forms the fudson liny, and the 1 department of the — Iieing a lonuitndi- iial section (^ahout two-sevenths of its whole ai'ea ), intermediate between the two oeeans, but walled oft' fnmi both, and having but finrc outlets for its waters, viz. : the eanons of the llio (irande, the Colorado, and the Cdbimliia. ("olunmar biusalt iornis the basement of this whole region, and viilianie action is everywhere i)r(jminent. Its general level, a.seertained upon the lakes of the difl'erent basins, is aiMii IVUILICS ( It (ilMIO feet above the sea. llain .seldom fi an( 1 liml ler IS rare. Tl ic if mountiuns which separate the basins are often rugged, and capped with perpetual snow, whilst i.solated masses of great height elevate them- selves from the plains. This whole I'ormati'in alxjunds in the precious metals. Such is the region of the Taiu.k Ji.WDs. IJiyond these is the Pacific .M.MilTlMK region. The great wall of the AXDKS, receding IVom the lieach ipf the I'acilic. leaves lu'twei'n it'clf and the st'a a half valK'y, as it were, forming the seaboard slope from San Dieiiii to thi! Straits of Juan de 1' uc; This is iL'dd mill m length, am] 2(in bi'oad. Across it descend U> the sea a series of fine rivers, rai fror iL;in<j //// to north, like the little streams desccndinu' from the Ailes^ha- nies to the Atlantic. These are the San (Jabriel, the linenaveiitura, th .load iim aiut 'acrainen to, til ixmue, 'Hametl I, aiK 1 I nniHii W ivers : the Widlamette and Columbia, the Cowlit/, .'hekalis, and Xasijually, of Puii'et Sound. Tl us resemtiles am bl. id balii mces tlu' iiiiirifiiiii Sl( if the Atlantic side of the continent ; but it is vastly larger superficially ; of the highest agricul- tural I'.xcellence ; ba.saltic in forniatio d 1 iirand tiev'int ■y ,d th ] lowers o f description. The snowy jioints and voh'anocs of the Andes are every- where visilde from the sea; whilst its climate is entirely exempt from the frost s of winter. The configuration of the Gicrra jMadre (the ^lother ^Mountain of the lentlv massive and sublime. IJising from a bas(>ment world) IS transcen( wlios(> roots spread out 200(1 miles and more, its crest splits almost cen- trally the Xiiiihrrii Cohlhinil. and diviiles its waters to the two oceans. Novel te ms liavt! lieen i ntroduced to define its characteristics. Misa, e.Kprtsses tin; level jilateau.x of its sunnnits. dtnun. the gorges' rent in its slopes by .he descemling rivers. Jhitc, the conical mountains isolated and trimmed into symmetrical peaks by atmosiiheric corrosion. Everylxidy has .seen the card-houses built by children in the nursery. ^Ullll(lse thre(^ o 'I'l th )f tl lese in a row. liaviim a second storv over the centre this toy I'amiliarly delineates a transver.so section of the Sierra Madre. The top of this upper story rejiresents the centn.i primary mrsn of the Cordillera — its summit a greiit plain. desciMiding on both flanks by a per- pendicular wall of (JOOO feet to the level of the nfoitf/ iinsn. or steppe. II Iff lili 190 APPENDIX. i|:'l \ Towards the west the second mesa fills the whole sjiaee to the Andes, whoso farther side descends ahrujttly to the tide-level of the Pacific. This is again wliat has been before described at lengtli -is the GrtEAT Table Lands. But toward.s the cast tlie siroHd mesa forms a piedmont, rent into jieaks b}' the fissures of innumerable streams. This piedmont, called by us the Black Hills, masks the front of the Sierra Madre from end to end. Sn completely is it torn and rent by the perplexity of w<(ter-couri<es, that patches alone arc left to define the original plateau. These ai'c the east- ern envelope of the basin of the Yellowstone, the Laramie Plain (between the Platte.s), the Ratone and the Llano Estacado of Texas. Beneath this the third ))n'm (or steppe) is that superlative region, the Great Pkairik Plains, whose gentle slope forms a </Iticisto the Gulf through Texas, ami in front to the trough formed by the ^lississippi Biver from Itasca Lake to the Balize. It is this vastn&ss of geographical configuration wliich leads tlie glance of the engineer with unerring certainty to that line of natural grades from ocean to ocean, the discovery of which mankind now awaits with the keenest interest, and along wliieh the American nation is resolved to construct the consummate work of art — the Asiatic and P]rR()PEA.v Railway. Adva'" hm north along the comh of the Sierra Madre from belnw Mexico, you find at the sources of the Platte (Sweetwater) a wide gaji. where, the high mesa suddenly giving out for the space of forty miles, the second mesa passes through from east to west, the continued water-ridge being scarcely perceptible among its gentle undulations. Tin's I'tt the " South Pass." It is so named as being the most southini pa.«s to which you may ascend by an affluent of the Atlantic, and .^tep immediately over, to a stnani de- scending directly to the Pacific. This name is as ancient as the pass itself Into it concentrate the great trails of the bufi'alo, geographers and road-makers by wsti'ncf, before the coming of man. The Indian, the Mexican, and the American, successors of one another, have not improved or deflected from the instincts of the bufi'alo. nor will they, whilst the mountains last in their present un.«hattered bulk. The South Pass has a towering grandeur, in keei)ing with the rivers between which it is the avenue (the Mi.«souri. the Colorado, and the Columbia), all of which. i.s,suing from the wall of the Wind River Mountain, come out of it upon the second mesa, at the saiiic hn/. and into which they imme- diately coniD'cnce burrowing tlieir caf.ons of descent to the seas. Here, then, is the route, the sonthrrn route, of the Nation,:! Railroad. ascending b^ where it for of the high water-grade The dista ascertained, the Salt B plane, to fit tation exist where the so that the there any i between th The Col tributes th and tunne whole coui American feet, 200 This rivei admit of; immenselj transporta The gr( ing into tl affluents fathomed ridges, an Here ii great hei explore o 1)1 a dire Pacific, t The ri deep int' sinific pa: interlock South F Thus exists n( rivers, t^ MEMOIiAXDA OX THE PACIFIC RAILROAD. 191 sjiaco to the Aiidof;, |1 of the Pacific. This '.-* the GijKAT Table liiiont, rent into peaks [iKint. calk'd hy u.s the Tom enil to end. ^n if w«ter-cour,>Jes, tluit These are the east- ram ie Plain (between Texas. Beneath tliis • tiie GrtKAT i'HAIlilK If throuuli Texas, and ver from Ita.>^ea Lake liieh Iead,s tlie rihuici: ne of natural grades ind now awaits with I nation is resolved to TIC AXD ElRdPKA.V a Madro from belnw setwater) a wide ^'aji, ;ice of forty miles, the I'ontinued water-ridue ilations. Tim k the hieh you may ascend over, to a stream de- aneient as tlie iia,«.s buffalo, a'eorrrajiliei's in. .s.sors of one another. the buffalo, nor will lattered bulk. The I the rivers Iti^tween 1 the Columbia), all ^fountain. ennie out 3 which they imme- <> the Seas. Xatioii,! Piailroad. ascending by the water-grade of the Platte to the top of the second nie.sa, where it fijrms the summit, following the level of this mesa along the base of the high mesa, to the Columbia (Snake Eiver), and descending its water-grade clear to the Pacific. The distance from the Platte to the Columbia has not been accurately ascertained, though by the present wagon-road, which crosses a corner of the Salt Basin, it is less than 300 miles. Here is that double-inclined plane, to find which has been the first e.s.sential in every line of transpor- tation existing iu the world. There is none south of this, because every- where the basins of the Table Lands overlap and envelop one another, so that the passes lead merely from one of these into another ; nor are there any natural tunnels through the precipitous walls of the Andes, and between the basins. The Columbia, running across the Table Lands from ea.st to west, dis- tributes the descent of 8500 feet efjually along its course of 1200 miles, and tunnels the great ranges of Blue ^Mountains and the Andes. This whole course of the river is a continuity of rapids, having three falls, the American Falls of thirty feet at Portneuf, the Salmon Falls of forty-five feet, 200 miles below, and the Chuttes of twelve feet, near the Dalles. This river-grade is then as rapid as the descent to be accomplished will admit of; for, distributed into long levels and steep grades, it would immen.«ely impair the utility of the whole work, and fatally impede transportation. The great Colorado runs diagonally across the Table Lands, cirhouch- ■incj into the Gulf of California ; but has its course and tho.se of its great affluents parallel with the mountain ranges, which are scored with un- fathomed caiions, perplexing the traveller with an infinity of impassable ridges, among which the water-courses are embowclled. Here is that immense and complex labyrinth of mountain ribs, whose great height and arid character have heretofore defied every effort to explore or penetrate. Its impenetrability cannot be made to yield to art, in a direct line, owing to the whole space from the Sierra ]Madre to the Pacific, bristling with parallel ribs of snowy mountains. The rivers penetrate these diagonally, and are sunk in caiions, burrowed deep into their roots. North of the South Pass, however, exist many sinr/k passes, where the higher branches of the Missouri and Columbia interlock. These circuitous routes have all the same termini as that of the South Pass, for they also descend the same two rivers to the seas. Thus between the South Pass and the Isthmus of Tehuantepec there exists no straight railroad route, owing to the longitudinal courses of the rivers, the complexity of the basins, and the double barrier of primary ■i ! i< i i. 192 A/'PK.XniX. mountiiin diiiins. To the iinrtli, other passes exist, wliich future uiiicra- tions may ilevelop, and ou which uavipition may he used for I'our-til'tlis ot the whole distance. True it is tliat potential fashion now exalts tlie nairitinii husiii nf Cali- fornia. 8an Francisco Bay. into tlie haven of hope and fortune of the new .«eahoard, whilst the suhlinie hasin of the Columhia and its ma^iiiticent rinr /mr/xirs iwo, banished from j)uhlie favor. The hasin of San Fran- cisco is small, and an isolated sjiot to reach from the interior. No ureal river gives it access to the Mississippi Valley, from which it is cut off Ity the basins of the Salt Lake, the Colorado, and the Del Xorte, overlapping each other. The Columbia is larger than the Danube, and equal to the Ganges. In size, climate, agricultural excellence, capacity for population, and its won- derful circular configuration, the ))asin of the Columbia surpasses liotli of these others. The mouth of the Columbia, a salient point upon the npcn eoast, more than any other central and convenient to tlie whole Xnrth Pacific and Asia, is, in size, dej)th of water, sifety, and facility of ingress or cgre.^s, ecpial to San Francisco. As the mouth of the greatest river descending fmm our continent into the Pacific, it is perhajxs more valuable. It is eight degrees south of Liverpool, having the climate of Bordeaux, Marseilles, or Savannah. Why is not the deep sea navigation concentrated at XnrfulJi-, on Hamp- ton Beads, the finest liarbor of the wliole Atlantic ? Why, rather, is it found at New York and New Orleans, accessible only through every dan- ger that can menace shipping ? Why, because the former is the outlet of the basin of the 'St. Lawrence, the latter of the Mississippi. Th<! ship- ping of commerce goes to where cargoes can be found. TiCss than fifty years ajxo./iis/u'on pronounced the little ravines of James Biver and the Connecticut the proud spots of America, and held the great uninhabitable wastes of the ^Ii.<si.ssippi and its uHnavlffatcd streams as worthy only to balance ci>if/ish .' This same splenetic spirit of /'rs/i/o)( now manufactures a similarly ridic- ulous misdirection for the energy of the pioneers, by setting up what the geologist would call a '' pot-hole of the Andes," against the grand Colum- bia. Commerce, provident like every other de]iartinent of industry, makes herself harbors with charts, pilots, buoys, and beacons. The shallowest channel of the Columbia ha,s thirty-five feet of water — the deepest of New York twenty-nine. Thus doea Xatuhk, piously appealed to, and calmly consulted, exhaust, bring to a close, and settle, by eternal facts, the various oj^'nious which wliich futuiv pvncra- uscd fur iliiir-tirilis of (irttltui Icisiii (it'Cali- (1 f'nrtiine of tlio new ami its nia<.niiK(('iit Iiasin of ,<;m Fi-mh- iiiti-rior. No o-roat wliich it is lut of}' by t'l Xorte, ovorlajiiiiug al to tlu' Gaiiiics. In lulatioii. and its won- bia suvpasst's botli of IRiiiit upon tlic ojH'n to the whob> North lind facility of ingvoss if tlio iircatost river ■rhajis more vahiabie. climate of Bordeaux, it Xnrfi,!],-. on ITanip- ' Why, rather, is it y through every dan- fonner is the outlet [ississippi. Thi; ship- d. ttlo ravines of James ?a, and held the great tavi'gntcd streams as ires a similarly ridic- setting up what the ist the grand Colum- t of industry, makes ms. The shallowest -the deepest of New ,' consulted, exhaust, ious opinions which MEMOIIAXDA 0\ THE PACIFIC UMLItOAh. VX perplex the public mind in locating the continental railroad. The national will must wisely listen to an<l oln'y her jiromptings. Postponement, defeat, and failure will overwhelm every effort to depart from the water-grade, or to penetrate, perforate, or surmount in any other way the Titanic rigidity of the table lands. The obstinate advocacy of any other route is insidious and hostile in the bi'iip to the worl entirely. The irnfrr-i/riK/r of flu' continent is simply this : — The road, leaving the west bank of the Mi.ssouri. pursues the IMatte Kiver along the facile a.scent of its south bank to the South Pass; this is some Tod miles: thence along the smooth /m-/ of the South Pass. 250 miles to Snake Kiver: thence down tlu; facili; descent of Snake River to the Columbia, U(K) mile.s. This route is the xhitrti'nt and best acro.ss America ; it is, in practical fact, a /iir/ from end to end ; the grading is conipli'te throughout ; the mountains are all tunnelled ; the climate dry and projiitious. There remain to be described the peculiarities of climate, and the bear- ing upon our subject of the immense interests of ocean commerce and political power. CHAPTER III. In two former chapters I have endeavored to grasp the geographical view of the t(»NTlXKXTAL RAILWAY — to wiiuiow its immense com- plexity — to shake loo.se a few simple /J/cAs' engorged in obscurity — aud to stand face to face aud in council with Nature. We have seen that Xatiire, thus candidly appealed to, leads us point blank to the supreme pass of the continent, the SolTH Pass, and then i traces with her unerring finger to the right, and to the left, the double water-grade to the seas — by the Platte to the Atlantic, by the Snake Kiver to d Pacific. But public opinion is perplexed by a systematic obscuration oi' /nets, long and vehemently repeated, in other things besides geography. This route is pronounced northern; the climate hostile; accunuilated snows are insisted upon ; the Indians impracticable ; the work itself herculean ; population, provisions, material to build, and work for the road, wanting ; the length of the road is pronounced insuperable, and its cost enormous. These objections all tall absolutely before a ^i:\\ facts of nature, here emi- nently clear and emphatic. Let us appeal to them and decide ! 13 n 194 A PI'EXlJlX. Climate controls the nii<:ratioiis of the huniiin race, which liave steadily adlu'reil to an '• ixuthi rtn<il r.ndinc" or hjlt of equal warmth, around the world. The extremely mild temperature of our visfcni sea- hoard is the consequence of the same great laws of nature which o]ur;ito in WcMcrn Europe. These are the reuular and fixed ordinances nf the code of nature, to which the mijrrations of man, in common with the animals, yield an instinctive ohedience. AVithin the fonid zone of the glohe, from the etjuator to the liStli di'gree of north latitude, hlow the tnu/e iciiK/a and vnridUcs, always /'/v-//( the east and northeast, all round the world. IJut in the sueceedinu' licit from 28° to (10°, the winds have an opposite or compensating uirection, /riiiii the west and southwest, all round the glohe. These latter wind-currents reach the insfcni coasts of America v.m\ Eurojje after traversinji' the expan.se of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. Warmed to the temperature of these oceans, they iiiijidif again this same mild atmosphere to the maritime fronts of the continents which receive them. These same winds, passing onward over great extensions of con- tinent of loAv temjierature, covered with snow or frozen during winter : often warped upwards by mountain ranges, becoming exhausted of tlicir warmth, have, upon the cusfirn expansions of the continents, an exactly opjiosite effect upon the climate. Hence the variant temperature of New York, and Li.shon, in P(n-tugal, which face one another, on opposite sides of the Atlantic — of 8an Fran- cisco, aud Pekin, in China, similarly opposite, upon the Pacific. At San Francisco and at Lisbon, the sea.sons arc but modulations of one contiimous summer. At New York and at IV-kin, winter annually sus- jiends vegetation during seven months, whilst ice and snow bind up the land and waters. These four citie.s arc all close upon the same parallel of latitude, thojhrtirth degree north. Thus is it manifest why in As'i the mass of population is congre- gated on and south of theyo/'//(//i degree, and in Europe north of it. In America it again curves to the south on the eastern face of our continent, to rise northward again on the warm Pacific coast. Within this undu- lating belt of the north fniiprrate zone, in breadth Jibout thirty-three de- grees, are included four-fifths of all the laud and nine-tenths of the world's population. Hero has been the progressive march of the human race round the world, eomineiicing in the farthest (Jrfnit,i\nd forming a zodiac of nations towards the setting sun. In this have been retained similar tastes, simi- lar industrial pursuits, similar food and clothing, requiring similarity of climate, and recoiling alike fnnn the torrid and from the arctic zones. MEMOllAXDA OX THE PACIFIC IlAILIiOAI). VX) If. tlu'ii, the iniiid irtains the sinijdc facts, that all our pivscnt terri- tory between the oeeans lies within this /.diic, where the wimls flow always j'l-um the west, we arrive at the solution, as well of the different nioditica- tions of climate along the same parallel of latitude, as of the variety in the veiretahle cuverinu' of the surface: — irhi/ the tusfmi pi/r/ioii is clothed with dense fevests, the cnttnil jxirtinu with prairie jrra.«ses only, and why the great fertile plains of the liigh mountains and of the Tn/iii Lunds arc yet of an arid hardnes.s and naked of all inliorcicnifr. Tiie amount of irrigating rains falling u]ion the face of the land from the clitiuh, regulates this. The oceans are the reservoirs which supply clouds to the atmosphere. The vapors, rising from the whole surface of the ocean into the higher regions of tin; atmosphere, form tliemselves. at a cold elevation, into natural halloons, or clouds. These, carried })y currents of air over the land, and rising still liigher. become condensed and distil themselves upon the earth in the form cif rain. Those holding vapor in the form least concentrated, spill it out in the regions near the sea. Others attain to a high degree of concentra- tion, retaining the form of clouds until they reach the central regio.ns of the continents and a great elevation. But we have seen that the great snoin/ Cordillera of the Andes lines the whole n-rsfrrn seaboard of Xorth America, lu-ing in sight f)f vessels sailing up the sea, from the Gulf of California to l^ehring's Strail. The winds coming from the u-rxf and over tlie ocean, blow against this wall. On this elevated summit of perpetual congelation, water becomes ice. as solid and permanent as the cold lava-rock. The irrigating influence of the Pnci'fic Orran is liere abruptly sto]iped and entirely ceases. The great rnsfirii slo])e ofaiir continent, however, descending by gentle inclined planes to all the seas, receives, without any geographical inter- ruption, the irrigating winds and clouds of tlmse seas. Tlu^ barrier of the Alleghanies (finiiiu'sJus. but does not sfap, the inflowing of vapors. Hut we have seen that the winds blow perpetually //'o/u the icpsf. The inwai'd progress, then, of the atmospheric vapors is by this continually repelled. The vvgctatum of the continent reveals to us the result of this conflict between winds and the gradual exhaustion of the atmosplu-ric vajiors. with an exactness as comi)lete as that with which the thermometer indi- cates temperature. The VKU-Ithne ilrrlh-if//. the Alleghanies, and the countries between thi' latter and the troiii/hn of the Mississip])i and St. Tiawrence. are densely clad with timber. So are the States of Louisiana. Arkansas, and Smitli 3Iissouri ; receiving clouds from the Gulf partly, and partly from the Atlantic. ll'<>/- wanl and norttnciird the tindier gradually tapers away; still following in 11»(5 Ari'KMUX. \\ i • narrow lines alonj; tlio rivcrw, but Iwiviu}; tho uplands and riches (o the luxuriant jirairic fiiassi's. Soon, liowfVt'r, the (iiii/wr abanddu.s its stiuf;- jilc t(i firow, and ceases entirely. Oiiuiinf, however, from tlie last fringe of tinilier, for some liinidicd miles, the irrijiation continue.s to preserve the mellowness of the snil. and a sward of tall, luxuriant j;rasses covers the wliole smooth expanse ol' nature. Tiiis, in turn, gradually dwarfs under the decreasini: iniuatioii, taperini; into the ileliwite curled gra.ss of the buffalo plains, which is scarce half an inch in height, and resembles the wool of a lamb. Fiii(i//i/, grass itself fails, and the general characteristic of the siwface ol" the great Sierra Madre and the plateau of t\w Table Lands is total nakedness of any nutritious vt'j [■tabl e coverini. Tl le soil is either com I)actly hard, or resembles dry ashes. The surface is lu-re sparsely clothed with dwarl'ed wormwood and the prickly pear, — funereal plants, whicli seem as careless of moistiu'e ii.s is tiu' salamander of tire. Such an; the great primary laws of Nature which decide the climate and vegetation of our continent. !nt<'rruptions and modifications of tlie.'<e laws are iniuimerable. Xa/iirr i< vrtn/irlurf in'xr. ('om]pi'iisations exist in all the.s(; countries, so eccentrically novel to us, which will win iiir them the densi'st populations. No de.scjrts of silicious .sand, like tho.se of Arabia and Al rica, e.xist in America, nor are sm-h possil)le Th dyf w. oidv iormation )f silicious sand is the Atlantic declivity, whose .soil .soon wa.stes under L-ult ure an d the ocetin washes f/n'n Th ii'cat bowl made up of the basins of the interior is everywl lero cii/cdiriiiis. The soil which covers the two great Cordilleras, the I'.Mti.K liA.XDS and the Pacific declivity, is the intrinsically fertile decay of ba.saltic and lava formations. Tliirxt (i/did- causes it« nakedness aiul a]iparent aridity. Win re this thirst is quenched with a frugal supply of wat"i'. it slmws an abumlant and inexhaustible fi;rtility. (ireat rivers are every- wiiere full and convenient. Tl HIS »\V. dl tl U' SUCC( .ssive varieties of climate. ve<ietati( )n, an( 1 soil explained by the gradual atteiunition of the rains, as we recede 'rom tlu' ocean. Vicr rriKii, these conditions of the atmosphere and land atte.-<t the ab.sencc of vapor in the ibrmer. .\ll secondary jihenoniena, such as tin; annual fires of the great jirair.. if long gra.ss, are conse(|uences of the aridity of the autumnal and winter atmosjihere, and not caiiurs of the absence of timber. A</in'ii, the elevation of the plain of the Smilli /\iss is 7S()(I feet above the sea. The streams which c<illect and carry off its waters — Swi-etwater to the east and Sandy to the west— are only larg<' rini/rfa. though their courses are long. The amount of rain in summtir and xnoic in iciiiler .i/a;.i/o/m.\7/.i o.v the pacjfiv nAiLiioin. id: irids and riches (o tlio '(■/• iihamloiKs its stiuir. r. for Sdiiii- liuiidnMl Inwiicss oi' tlif soil. )1(; siiiootli i'X|iaiist' df Iccri'asiiiji' irriuatidii, (laiiis, wliicli is scarue mill. tcri.stic of tli(! surliico Tabic Lands is total 'lie soil is either ciini- < here s)iars(Iy elolhcd iinereal jilants. which • Kre. eh decide the climate modifications of these ('oni|iensations exist lieli will win flir them d. like tlntse of Araliia 1 Tin- oidy flmnation oil soon wastes under nterior is every wliere 'ordilleras, the T.MiKK ertile decay of hasidtic kedness and apnarent al sninily of water, it reat rivers are eveiy- . V(i:;e(ation, and soil lis wo recede <rom tlie )here and land attest ' |)li(!noinena. sucli as are consefjuences of and not nnisrs of the /.V.S- is 7S(I(I feet ahove ■< waters — Sweetwater vinihia. thoiiiih their and tiiKiu: lit tciii/er upon tlu" wafer-irrade of the Platte and Snake Hivers. and in the South I'ass lietween them, is so in.-iirnificant as to hear no com|(arison in amount with those between Hi»t<in and Uufl'alo ! Hut the .■ituiK-ndous ma.vies nf the Wind lliver .Mountains rise in the northern hori/oii of the Soutli I'ass to an altitude of 14.0(1(1 feet. Their ureal elevation draws down the va]iors lett in tlie atmos])liere. which clothe their summit.'- with jierjx'tiial. and their flanks with winter snows. The.se su|n>ly wators to tlie j:reat rivers, and cover the flanks and iroii^cs of the ''reat mountains with immen.se forests. The same is the case elsewhere w ith the L'reat /niiinin/ mountain chains, siicli as the Ital I or Wa.sitch and tht ilmon liiver .Ml iintains lint th ,/, le siriiiiiiiiri/ ninun- tainsand |ia.s.ses are entirely naked of timher, havini; uiion them neither rams nor snows at anv season. Hut an e.xtraordiuarv /</ ./ 1 lere ( level. it.self. If W iim th ]ioint kliere the junction of .-ievcral small streams forms the Kansas Kiver. I2tl m iles due west from the Mis.-iouri River, tis a rrnfrr, a cin lie 1 )e lU'scri l.e.1 touching the boundary line of 41l^ as a tangent, the ojijiosite side of the circle will ]>ass tlirough the seaport of Matagorda in Texas, tl irouif ii \ew Orleans and .MohiU Th ml nt is. therefore, th t' II iirri'. n( tith and south, of our countrv. If from the sm end rr a larirer circle he described, it will pass through San Franci.sco. and through ^'ancouver City, on the Columbia, exactly grazing the whole coast between them. The .same circle will jia.ss through (.fiiebec and Boston on the Atlantic, through /Iiiriiini on thetiu"'. and through the city of Mc.i'iro. The same point is then tlie r/-«/re between the oceans. Thus, at the forks of the Kansas Itiver a ])oint exists, in latitude ."JS" -t.j', and loiiiritude DT Wl' ■it of (ireenwich. which is the Hva KiK.Vl'IIKA!, Ck.vtkk — north and .south, east ami west — at once of our whole national territory, of the ba-sin of the Mississijipi, and of the continent of North America ! 'Hw /luf.t. then, which concentrate thenis(.'lves to locate the ('niifiiKii/nf Riiiliriii/ at the line of wator-grades from ocean to ocean, sum them.selves up conclusively in its f;ivor and against all others. From Baltimore and New York, through St. Louis to Kansas, this road is now under contract and construction. For this distance the route traverses a country guttered with rivers : interruptcMl by the narrow and abrujit ribs of the Alleghany chain : covered with timber: having a fitful climate vexed with immense niins and snows: the surface infinitelv chan- nelled with water-»iuii-s*'s and itl ]u'rplexe(l witli innumerahle ravines, alter blc iiltc nating with stwp am' narrow hills. Yet this half of tho wliole road progresses over all the.sc difficulties 198 Ari'EXDlX. with sufh ease und celerity, tliat armimeiit of it.s iiii|iia( tieal)ility is imt tolerated. But a^;aiiist the remaining half (if the mad, from KaiiNis to Astoria, these armuiieiits are tolerated, though in truth thej have all ceasfil, and sueh ohst ructions and inijiedinieiits have no existence in inihiri . The reniaining hulf from Kansas to Astoria crosses no river of any niaj.'nitude, yet |»ursue.s tlie hanks of great rivers continuously the wlinj,. distance. The hanks of these rivijrs, risinj;- hut a few feet ahove tin' water surface, are of iniini'Mse width, iierfeclly hard and dry, and snmoili a.^ a water levi'l. Such is the general characteristic uf the I'latte and (.'oluiuhia from end to end. The jtlain of the Smitlt /'ass is almost as .smooth and hard as a niiulilc pavement, and is of a general lireadth e.\c(,'eding thirty niili'S. Not a single eminence cxi.sts in the whole distance hut is tunnelled hy these rivers tlown to the general grade. On the track everywhere is material in every variety ol" i'orm and in tlii^ suhliniest ahundaiici'. Jiumher exists in ahundance in the high mountains to the right and left. Iron can he sujiplied at the ends and ujion the navigalile rivers, hrought from Eurojie if necessary, as it now comes for nearly all the rail- roads in America. Mineral coal is abundant from end to end. ixock in every variety — granite, basalt, lava, limestone, and gyjjsum. The I'latte jieiforates a great range of mountains of (/i/psiiiii ; the .Snake River a less one of nivlc-ault. This route is not lunthi rn. liut r.nictfi/ antnil. The sublime order and fitness ol' Nature seems here jire-eminently to vindicate and e.\i'm|iliiy it.self. Upon the Kan.sas River it jilunibs the giutgraidiical centre of the national territory. From hence it curves northward to Baltimore, the most Kiiiit/irni Atlantic city of great commercial activity. It curves gently to the northward to the mouth of the Columbia. This is in lati- tude 4()° I'.y, being three degrees .south of Havre in France, and eight degrees south of Liverpool and Amsterdam. Vet the climate of Western America is milder than that of Western HuroiPC. It is al.so upon the coasts extending fifteen <legrees north of the Columbia that the murine of the Pacific will be constructed, as lu-re are combined the conveniences of sea-harbors and forests. It is in the Raltic and British I.sles that all the vinn'tir of Europe is built and owned. It is likewi.se on the St. Lawri'iice and in New England that the murine of America is constructed and owned. To speak of the obstruction of ImUanx ujion the route is a monstrous hnr/isijKc. The whole aggregate nundier of men, women, and children, within several hundred miles along the flanks of this rout-e, does mil amount to nine tlioasand, or one-fifth of the pojjulation of Washington ill liiipriK ti(iil)ility is rmt loilll, IVciIU K;i|isi.s t<i 111 till'} Iiiivcall ((ii.s,.,!^ |it('iif(! ill iin/iin . lisM'M III) river (,{' miy |Mitiminiisly tlic wliiil,. li'W i'cct iilmvc ill,, and (Irv, ;iiiil .siiio<>t|| fie ipf tlif I'liittc iiiid and hard as a inailili. tliiity miles. \,,t ., is tunnelled liy these verywhero is material laiiee. ins t(t tile ridit ami the naviualde rivers, (ir nearly all the lail- nd to end. JIuek in yi>siim. The I'hitte the Siiako lliver a The suliliiiie order iidieato and o.\em|ilily rajdiieal centre of tin- rd to Iialtiiiiore, the activity. It curves I)ia. This is in lati- iii France, and eitiht hull that of Western dcj!;rees north of tlu; istiHicted, as liere are It is in tlie Baltic ilt and owned. It is that the iiiiin'iie of route is a monstrous (imeii, and children. ;his rout«, does not atlon of Wasliinntdii MKMOliAMlA OS' rilE I'Alll-'li' llM/Jt()M>. 109 City! The most moderate pay would make of tliem valuable herders of stock, and hunters. The ](asturet< now maintain meat u|ion tlie hoof, or liiilfalo, Ut tile amount of many millions. A Inun/ni/ ini/lidiis of tame cattle will niaintaiii tliemselvcH in the i)utl°alo country, fat in conditioii round the year. Jin/ is the approjiriute food of these dry and lii^Ii altitudes. The riisfini lialf of this route, from Baltimore to Kan.sas, traverses very centrally the densest ]io|iulation, the lar;;-est |iroduction and consumption, and consei|uently tlie line of <;reatcst travel and coinmerci!. The same will lie the case with the irixtirii Inilf as soon as the Imr/csi/nr of"' Indian occupation" is hruslied out of the way. The immense mass of pioneers in all the elder States chafes to issue out and cover this delij^'htful cimu- try with rej)iil)lics. The country emhraciiiLr tin- sources of the Sweetwater, Colorado, and Snake Jlivers is a j;oId country, eiiuallin^ California or Hrazil, hut iiiac- eessihle to ocean navij:ation. The climate does not, (M(iial!y as in the.sc latter countrii's, pulverize and disiiitejirate ihe rock. The <£'M is in a matri.x of (jiiartz. The hard jporphyry and lava will descend in iniiiien.se (piantities, anil thus economize the paviiij; of the cities of the Valley of the Mi.ssissippi. One natural production of Ihe eastern edj,'e of the Taiii.e Lands will soon re]>ay the cost of the construction of this road. This is SAl/r. There are mountains near the sources of Snake Jliver, composed of stratified nias.ses of rmh-stilt — just as other river bluffs arc of limestone. This, ipiarried with liirht tools, and <rrouiid to jiowder, as grain is re- duced to flour, is tlui pure alum salt of commerce. J')very living soul of America u.si's salt thrice per day. Every animal r(.'(|uires it as frei|ueiitly. Every ounce of jtrovisions is preserved with it. It is mixed with hay, and preserves timber. It is u.sed in the manufactures and tine art«. IJrought licnce down to tlu; focal jioint of navigation in .Missouri, this State will become liie distributing point of this most valuable, greatest, and most indispensable article of commerce. By the last national census, the annual jiroduction of our country reaches the value of thnr t/ioiisinn/ iin'/Zioiin of dollars. Seventy-five jier cent, of this is/ooif, which finds no market among the comparatively lim- ited jiopulation of Europe, 1^(1'), (100,(1(10, v.-ho feed themselves. Around the Pncljic, in front of Astoria, are 745,000,000 of hungry Ahiath's and Poli/insidiis, who have groceries, clothing, spices, and por- celain, to exchange for meat and grain. But the icfsfvrn half of this road departs from the bank of the Mis- souri, to which :dl America has ac os at this hour by the navigable I ! u i'.i 200 Ari'h\\/)/x. rivers; and rmiii Aj^toria tlicsi- inilliniis of coiiMiiiicrs iiiay Ix^ niiclu'J directly, over a tniii((iiil oifaii ami iiiidcr a /i nijn mti aliiiiis|ilu'ri'; tlie e(|uatnrial Iieat.s are diily eiicounteretl la^t and at the jilacc ul' tinai de- livery. No doubt, in the ]io]iulous, central, f'ood-jirotlucinf; States of lnwa, Mis- siiiiri, .Vrkan.sas, and Illinois, /Imr Innidinl iiilllinns of dollars' wurlli ul' produce of industry tidl annually to find a market, and the jirotit tlicreon jierislies, for want of this road art from the centre to the /("////western coast ! IJnl it is inijiortant that the jii'i/i/c receive with candor, and allow due wcijilit to, the overwhelminjj,- and conclusive jiroofs in fuvor of this mute of the water-^radi'S, which Nature, all recorded human ex|ierience. and tla; solid sfiiiicc of civil enjiineerinj:', cons|iire to sulmiit to their judj:ineiit. i\'</////v is the sujirenie engineer ; or/ is prosperous oidy whilst adhering to her teachinjis. We have seen in what a simple and suhlini" harmony the InrisHih I'nrco of Nature eli'Vates vapors from the sea. forms tlu'Ui int ' clou<l halloons in the upi cr atmosphere, an(W/////.>iy////7.s them on currents oi' air over the continents; how these become condensed and distil themselves over the face of the land in the form of irriuatinjj; rains. This water havinji' jierfornu'd its renovating duty, by tilteiin.^' throuiih the surface soil, be<:'ins a^ain to collect : first in remote hollows and un- dulations : thewi unite into rivulets : rivulets into larj!,er streams: streams into rivers : rivers into the great I're.sh-water //v/z/yZ/.s, which return this drainajie from the land, to mix with the salt oi' the ocean, to be renovated and perlitrm a<rain their jjart in the drriihitlnn of nature. Now, the use of jtithlic irorhx to human society is the same as are her works to Nature: to bring /'// and distribute clothing!; and groceries; to collect and carry nut surplus food and jtroductions of every variety. In the transferring to and fro of the waters of the univer.se, Nature accom]>lishes a.s much heavy transportation in a few hours as will suffice the social wants of Auuu-ica for a century. This, then, is all that is .sv////(/^ ill evil engineering, and comprehends all tlie good that it ////.s and caii do for human society: — to select those uyifi-r-qrftdcs whew, in further imitation of Nature, humar energy may smooth tlie asperities and econom- ically adajit to use tlie curves and grades witli which slie lias everywhere furnished the face of the land. Thus, then, to recapitulate and sum up the array of facts wliich con- centrate themselves to decide the locnfian of the Continkntal IIail- WAY. Xdtiiri' and all sound human experience unite to select tlu; imtcr- griide of the Platte and Snake Kivers, and against any departure from i*. MKM(>ll.\Sh.\ nS Tin: r.MIFlc ItMI.UoMi. .'01 ■rs may I.,, iv.iclu'il ''' iiliii(isj,li,.|v: tlic II' pliicc of liiiiil il,^ states ol" l,,\va, Mis- il' ilnllais" wmtli lit' llic jniifit ill,. I- tllC /*'/;7//\\, .,1,.||| iiliir, ami alluw ilim aviir (iC tliis iiiiiti' <'.\|u'i'it'ni-c, ami tlic ti) tlirii' jiiiluiiicnt. Illy wliilsl adliciiiig _V tllC I'lirisilili riirc(; t" fldiid lialldiitis ill iifs ol' air (ivcr tlic lieuiselvt'S over tlio y fiitcriiif'' tlir(iiif:h iifo Jiolliiws ami 1111- L'l" .sti'oaiii.s : «( reams , whiih rcfiirii this 'an, to \tv rciHivatcd ire. lie samci as are licr and frrofcrii's ; to very variety, le universe. Xatiire iur.s as will suffice is all that is >^niiii,l lat it Ikix and cun wliere, in i'lirtlier jrities and eediiom- \\c lias everywhere f faets wliieli con- S'TI.NK.NTAI, li.VIL- I) seleet tlus im/cr- dejiarture from i*. Tl'tliis route defleets at all I'l'om aji exact n nlni/i/i/. it is to the suul/i. and not Inwards the north, that il Iicai's. Its Iwo halve,-, d.'.ci'uim: tVoni the iinln. ^ive the almitiM lines to ihe sea, lhioiii:h the countiie> and |hi|iii- iations when' tiie work to he done is the ;:i'eatest, and the nece»iiy lor it iiio>l iiniiiediate. pressimr. and lasting;, (hiihalf is located and under eiiiislruetioii. Asa lliruinili road it is the s/i'iifist line across Nmlh .\nierica. must conveniently connectiiiu .\sia and I'll lidl'K //'/ '/" jii ijii fiiii/ /iiii iif inii/ Irnri I n/' nil iimjifr. 'l"hoUi:h iiieandei'ini: inii'nii/ imiiK^n.se mountain chains, it |iasset< thei iiels eiini|ilelely iiiade liy nature. l.v t un- Neil ler snow niu' ram, nor ^reat rivers, enioarrass either ils eiin>liue- tiun or i's al'ter-u.<e : the climate is ]ii'e-eniinently jirojiitious : matciial to construct IS coiiveiiien tly at hand, at easv intervals on the rit^ht and lel't fuel and water aliundaiit forever. The inititfirnl excellence of the whoUi rciiioii, comhined with a dry almos|ihere and liealth, su|i|ilyiii,i: meat-food and ti'aiis|)ortation indefinitely, will render easy the imincdiale iiiHiix and residence of an immense ]io(iulation. The vicinity where the i;reat Si< rnt Mailrr is ]ieneti'ated, and where J'wi great rivers have their sources together, is ]irodigiously [irolilic in salt, hard rock lor architecture and ]iavinu', medicinal hot siiriiijis, all the jirccious metals and jewels, furs, lumlier, and the hides of animals. If 1 have delineated with any success, and exiilaiiu'd correctly the fea- tures (if Sittiirf. in gcojii'aiihy, climate, and topoiiraiihy, there remains to ex-miiu^ the liearinj;' uiion this Viork of the comhined hostili' influence of (/// commerce allied with iiolidi Why tl us jireat central route, suc- cessfully ojicned in the time of ,Jetl('i'soii and hy the eiieruy of Aslor, was attacked, stoji]ied, and finally xhiit ii/>, under President .Monroe, Ami why ils reojieiiing is still hamjiered and iiostjioned by the sauu! remorse- less and unrelentinu; eiiemie.s. J t ■VI. THE HEMP-GROWING REGIOX. Thkuk i.s a rcn-ion of Mi.ssonn' and Kini.san oi' rapidly rising fame and importance, gaining f(jr it.seif a State and a national repntation, wliieh we will define as the '' licgioii of the Hemp Cultured Specially favored by nature in its geographical locality, climate, navigation, and superlative fer- tility, this region has become the seat of a hemp culture which has a stiong, organized, and national foundation. The hemp culture receives special attention in twenty counties of West- ern Missouri, bisected by the Missouri lliver, and all adjacent to its t^vo shores. '^1 jy form a belt t)f land east and west, enclosed between die 38th and 40f h degrees of latitude. Here is the production of these counties in hemp, in order as they lie along the river — census of 1850 : JackboD, Cole, riatte, Howard, LKt'nyt'tte, Cass, Clay, liiioiie. Siiliuc, Johnson, Ray, Clinton, Cooper, Pettis, Carroll, Kandolph, Monitenu, Miller, Chariton, liui'hanan The iiggregatc of annual production being 14,173 tons, or 28,340,000 pounds. Since 1850, the hemp culture has increa.sed in vigor, both in the hmd assigned to its culture and in the application of machineiT to i'.o produc- tion and manufacture. The production of that year, within the aliove region, was 28,346,000 pounds, estimtiting the ton at 2('U0 pounds; and that of the whole State 10,110 tons, or 32,238,000 pounds. The cour.«e of the Missouri Kiver through this region of superlative fertility may be compared to the Nile flowing through Lower Egypt to the Mcditorraneiin. It is in the ability of an abundant and bountedus pro- duction that this comparison holds, but not in temperature, climate, or physical features. In Egypt, the arable and inhabitable district is limited to the ravine of the Nile, which is overflowed and irrigated by its waters ; beyond this the 202 primeval de characterize fertilizing \ ever-flowinj which havt But, on ravine of t gated cola This uiidu basins of t So muc exquisite i the sea nu Thecu to south. The M lliver in Missouri length. lines of South 31 They the Km which tl of Mex This thronge Americ Union. nhich progres habitat It is that 111 THE lIEMr-GKOWISG REGIOS. 203 1, ill order as they lie i tons, or 28,340,000 primeval desert reigns everywhere supreme. With us, the same fertility characterizes the borders of the stream, whieh has the same abundauue uf fertilizing waters, the same splendid navigation, the same solemnity in it^ ever-flowing channel, and the same redundancy of benignant attributes which have deified the Nile. But, on every side, from the gently elevated crest that bounds the ravine of the Mi.ssouri, expands, with a radius of 1000 miles, that varie- gated culcurcotis plain, which we define as the '^ Basin of the MinsisKijypi." This undulating plain has an area erjual in capacity to all the other river basins of tlie world, and conibines all their varieties. So much does the mind revert to the ocean to explain by comparison its exquisite romantic beauty, at once immense and regular, that this hymu to the sea may with propriety describe it : " Thou glorious mirror, where the Almighty's form Glasses itself in tempests; in all time, Calm or convulsed — iu breeze, or gale, or storm, Dark heaving;- -Ijounilless, endless, and sublime — The image oi" eternity — -the throne Of the Invisible — . . . each zone Obeys thee; thou goest forth, dread, fathomless, alone I" The curreia course of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers is from north to south. The latter is so tliroughout its whole length. The Missuuri, after a southern cour.se of 3000 miles, receives the Kansas River in latitude 39', turns abruptly to the eauf, penetrates Uie State of Missouri, and bisects it from west to cast, with a channel -it miles iu length. Into the eastern moutli of this chainiel, all the grei-t natural lines of travel coming from the Atlantic by the St. Lawrence, Ohio, and South Mississippi Rivers, concentrate as rays to a focal point. They iire altogether carried forward to the central west at the mouth of the Kansas, where the unbroken prairie formation meets the river, and to which the radiant land routes over their expanse, coming from tlie (iulf of Mexico and tlie Pacific Ocean, similarly conccntrato. This channel is now, and is destined prospectively to remain, the most thronged and wonderful in the world. It is central, east and nest, to the Americi'u Continent, to the Basin of the ML-^sissippi, and to th<> American Union. It lies along tlie axis of that isatliernial tern) rate zane, within which is the zoJi(tc of nations, and is also the a.els of the poi)ulation, jirogress, travel, production, consumption, commerce, transj}ortatii)n, and liabitation of the human race. It is the highway from Western l-lurope to Oriental .\si:!. It is under that line of /(f^V(/f?(; where all things northern and southern meet and blend 204 A PPESDIX. I'^Wf fl togetluT — where tlie day and iiifilit. the seasons of tlie year, lahor. the growth of nature, and all the elenicMts of human society and of the \ cue- table and animal worl'l, liave the widest range, the greatest variety, and the highest development. Having a double shore, this '-hannel has 800 miles of eoast. Tt lias tlie familiar accommodation imu safety of a canal, a ra'iriad, or a strcrl. Its de]ith of water and ea>iaeity for toninieree will receivi- and cany forward the freiglitage of al! the oceans and all the continents. Similar ciiannels have been known and used in both ancient and modern times — such are the Lower Nile, the IJosjihorus. and J)ar<lanelles, the Strait of Hercules, the English Channel, the Baltic's mouth, the Hudson from New York to Albany — onl}' this has greater length, divides more fertile shores, and connects more numerous hosts of nations. Such is the Jfcmj) Itryloii. It has an altitude 1000 feet above the si'a. a salubrity e(|ual to the Table Lamls, a fertility superior to the Delta of Louisiana, an unlimited area, a navigation better than the .sea, a climate exactly congeniid to tlic white man, a rural beauty forever graceful, fresh, and fascinating It is, on a va.stly magnified scale, the counterpart of that delicious and cla.ssic Italy, traversed by the Po, dotted with cities, Venice, A'erona, Mantua, Milan, of which SllAKSl'EAKE lias written, ami where ViittiiL ami Tasso sung. If an eiri{)se be described extending from the Osage mouth to Fort Kiley, ^ >me 500 miles, an<l in breadth !i<HI, it will contain that distiict of fat, lustrous soil, exub(>rant vegetation, graceful beauty, an<l abundant streams, where Nature has bomitifuUy blended all her choicest gifts to locate the nirol qiu'iitessi'iice of America and of the wo.ld ! Stimulated by the inspiring splendor of their natural position, the vigorous pojiulation of this region have ])ursmMl agriculture, commerce, and manufactures with an ambition and success which indicate a growing empire in nothing unworthy of their prospective de.stiny. Every department of production and industry has been tried, and all thrive. Hemp, tobacco, flax, the grajie and wiiu;, silk, stigar, the cereals and grasses ; cattle of the finest breeds ; agricultural nnichinery, flowers, steam, and niining. Society exalts it,s tone by a taste for religious edifices and elo<|uenc(! ; education receives great and universal care; mu>ic and re- finement are zealously oiltivated. Apart from these fascinating gifts i." Nature and the promise which germinates lieneath their warmth, a jinsfii/r entwines it.self with and illu- minates the history of this region. This runs back to the golden time of thti jiii/n'iirc/iitl I'oiuiders of our cuiitiiuiifiif empire; it stretches over the dark chasn nous Auroi of our null We ha\ l{(i(iKUS (. Lot IS X\ who li'd oi twilight o they have To und select out which sta niarkable This s\ very anci( IllSTOl struggles. and attaii defined t( Histor their risj depart etl. the nortl; ZODIAC t The a latitude, climates the Pers the /''/> in the i It is hei imist ne This the glol extendi edge t( Europi It is the lui front in intcrco Tin: iiEMP-anowi.Mi iiKdioy. 205 tJic year, lalmr. the •ictj and of fl,,, vcn^. greatest variety, niid L's of coast. Tt li;,s a'Ir)ail, or a strrcl. I'fccivi' and cnnv •""tiiicnts. Similar nd modern times iH'lli's, the Strait of Hudson i'rom Xew s more fertile sliores, •• firt above tlie sea. "or to tile ]),.Ita of •1 tlio sea, a climate i-ovor graceful, fresh, f that delicious and iof^, Venice, ^'erona, , and where Vii{(iir, 'age mouth to Fort tain that district of '»ty, and aliundant icr clioicest gifts to p.ld ! itural position, the ii-ulture, commerce, indicate a growing 'J- Ijocii tried, and all , «»gar, the cereals machinery, flowers, iir religions edifices •are; music and re- the promise which f.«<'H'with and illu- lu' golden time of stretches over the dark chasm of sealxiard monarchy, and lias its fountain in the lumi- nous Aurora and among the immortal patriots who limned out the jirotile of our finitiiKiital vn\\n\\', and inaugurated the march of our destinies. We liave here among us the graves of D.VNIKL 15(M)NK. (iKhrue ]{(MiKi{s Ci.AUKK, li.vrLKDK, and the names of .loiiN .lAtoH AsTttll, ]i(»lis XVI. of France, ].i.\SAI,I,K. and Dk Soto, great and intrepid men who li'd or befriended tlii' iiioiieers. those stars which shone in the first twilight of em]iire. To Jkkkkusox and Jackson wc were known, and they have been known to us as \mY frlinilx. To unth-rstand this pnsfiijf and its strength, it is necessary briefly to select out and .set apart to themselves a few facts in the history of progre.s.s, which stand along its path, and, like pyramids in the solitude, fix its re- markable epochs. This sy.stem of civili/ed .society, of which we Americans form a part, is very ancient, and is in/n rifid. IIlsToilV is the journal of its geographical pri>gress. its vici.ssitudes, its struggles, and its energies. Where society has a.ssuiiuMl its largest form and attained tlie higliest level of civilization and longest endurance, it is defined to be an ciii^iirr. Hi.story chiefly occupies itself with the biography of tlie.se empires, their rise, culmination, and decadence. They have appeared, lived, and departed, like generations of men. They lie along a .serpentine zone of the north hemisphere of the globe, within mt lnothfrmdl halt, and form a ZODIAC thirty-five degrees in width. The axis of this zodiac alternates abovi' and below the 4()lh degree of latitude, as the neighborhood or remoteness of the oceans modifies the climates of the continents. These empires are the (.'hiiu'.se. the Indian, the Persian, tlie (irecian, the Ifoman, the S|iani.<h, the Briti.sh, and, last, the /'ifiiifih'iiiii Kiiij>iii' of North America. These are the essential tines in the regular ordi'r of time and uiion the hereditary line of progre.ss. It is here that the mass of land is the greatest, and where the continents i"ost nearl}' ajiproach one another. This ZODIAC of nations contains iiinc-ldit/is of the white jiopulatiou of the globe, and all its civilization. The territory of the American iieo]ile, extending across this continent, exactly fills this i.sothermal zone from edge to edge, occupying the whole connecting space between Western Europe and (Jn'rufaf Asia. It is on tlie.^e two fronts of the old continents that the two halves of the humau race are .separately congregated, both fronting America and fronting one anotlier. face to face, across America. The straight line of intcreourse between them, only 1((,()00 miles in length, pursues the axis 'Ij^- 206 APPEXTJrX. of the isotliorniiil zone, out of wliieh it never deflects either into the torrid heats or tht; frozen north. Jlrrr. thi'ii. is the tenacious, the divine instinct of jiroirross and liherty, whicli fired the .«oul of ConMHLS, of WAsmxfiTox. of Jkkfeuson. and of Jackson. In this faith they lived; this faith they vindicated and never betrayed ; and in this faith they died, to inherit among posterity a supreme, untainted immortality. T/iix fin'fli forms the inspiration of the Declaration of 177(». animated the patriarchal generation, and was renewed and codified in the Constitu- tion of '87. It .selected Jefferson in 1798, and Jackson* in 1828. Its eagles are now erected among the pioneers out in the wilderness, in Kan- sas, in Utah, in California, and in Oregon. Upon them are i'ml)o>si'd the ancient rights of man, the continental union, the continental railroad, the continental cause ! During the administration of Jeffersox, central ertmsion, pursuing the isothermal axis through the continent, was prosecuted with great vigor as the favorite policy of the government. Lewis and Clarke recon- noitred and made known the character of the rivers, the mountains, and the connections of the Basins of the jMissi.-isippi and Cohnnbia by direct passes. John Jacor Astor planted trading colonies and paths through the wilderness, and upon the bank of the othei' sea opposite to China. The rapid creation of the States of Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois, and ^Ii.s,souri, carried forward the Union in a salient colunui, embracing the water-line of the great rivers and reaching here to the r/ror/raphiral centre in 1820 ! Up to that date the Jlanlcs had remained stationary in New York and Georgia. The design then was to go through with the parallelogram of central States from sea to sea, and from this base to advance outward, planting States simultaneously towards the south and towards the north. This policy was criitpled during the time of Mr. Madison by the vicissitudes t)f foreign war. It was abandoned and reversed by Messrs. ^Ionroe and Adams. Ill their time grew up the political divisions of North and South, and a maritime policy inaugurated itself Since that date, central progress has abruptly stopped, and great activity upon the flanks has brought them up to an even front in Totca, and a greatly advanced position in Texas. The central force has, howexcY, j'umjwd the continent straight to the front, occupied the sea-coasts of Oregon and California, and founded the new maritime power upon the Pacific and opposite to Asia. Since the selection of the site of the city of Independence, in 1824, to 1854, a chasm in time of thirty years, central extension had rested as stagnant as and perpetu tribes and f tending froi prairie foun Hence is formed of a and surroui Such are legislates t Mis.souri ai The anti out its hig on the one power to h greatness t In the J had a woi and has pi spots. T San Frani tions by st The fn of the M unrivallet Region. This 3 ^lissouri beetles o tar at th^ It cov the Stati cago anc ing the to New The little fr( passing cisco, I to all t Her ■Jj^ I cither into the torrid ']»ro.uross fiiRl lil.crty, \. of JkKFEUSOX. iiiid they vindicated nnd p'it among posterity a jii of 1770, animated [ified in the Constitu- ^OKso.v in \^2A. It.^ k wildenie.ss, in Kan- K'm are end)o,ssed the fi'iKiKal raih-nad, the ' ''■rf'im'oii, pursuing uted with great vigor 1111(1 Cl.ARKK recon- ', the mountains, and Columbia by direct !S and paths tlirough ppo.site to China. " k.y, Indiana, Illinois, t column, embracing to the r/roffnip/iicil iiiained stationary in Hologram of central e outward, ])lantin," s the north. This f by the vieis.-itudes lessrs. 3roxH(iE and rth and South, and y/ifriif progress has s brought them up on in 'jy.cas. 'lit straight to the 1- ■•Hid founded the Vsia. donee, in 1824, to I'oit had rested as r//i' HEMP-nnowixG reoiox. 207 stagnant as though our great river had been frozen at tliis point into solid and perpetual ice. It had been stopjied by an artificial cimhni of Indian tribes and federal law as effectually as by a continuous wall of brass ex- tending from Loui iana to tho41Hh degree, and rising in altitude from the prairie foundation to the clouds. Hence is .seen the uni((ue and novel sight of a great continvutid rmplvr^ formed of a circular shell of States traced round the circuniferent seaboard, and surrounding a hollow and vacant disk of desert coniwwnt. Such are at present the //<eore/ic«/ principles upon which maritime "^oWcy legislates for the great region of our country connecting the StaiL's of Mis,souri and California straight across. The antagonistic struggle is between the instinct of progress plowing out its highway through the continent, along the isothermal axis by land, on the one hand, and, on the other hand, the external shell of maritime power to hold the continent in a maritime Jioop, and subject its industrial greatness to an arrogant sea-pulieij. In the great city of New York the active instinct of progress has always had a working Vnality. Like Home, she has pursued an elastic policy, and has planted her commercial colonies at the right time, and in the right spots. These colonies, of the first cla.ss, are New Orleans, Chicago, and San Francisco. With all of these she maintains or needs direct connec- tions by steamers, railroads, and telegraphs, as also with Europe in the rear. The ti'ue is rife for another selection, Avhith offers itself in the centre of the Mississippi IJasiti ! A key-point of centraiity and radiance, and of unrivalled excellence. This is Kansas City, the metropolis of the Hemp Region. This young and vigorous city, crowning the southern bank of the Missouri River at the point of the angle where it deflects to the east, beetles over the avenues to the prairies of the south and west, like Gibral- tar at the Strait of Hercules. It covers the rear of St. Louis, and confines her to the narrow field of * the State of Arkansas. By the thrmigh railroad, coming by way of Chi- cago and Keokuk, crossing the Missouri River at Biunswick, and ascend- ing the south bank, an air-line road exists of only fifty hours' time hence to New York City. The river line of the Missouri, Illinois, and St. Lawrence deflects but little from an equal straightness and a similar distance in miles. Railroads passing onwards to Galveston into Texas and New >Iexico, to San Fran- cisco, Utah, and Astoria, will be the shortest lines from New York City to all these extremities and various regions of our continent. Here will be found the shortest diagonal line wherewith to bisect the 'w\ 208 APPENDIX. y% protluctivo territory and pdpulittion of the rnioii t(i\*iir(ls the xniifjiirr^i^ thr(iuji;li tile firuin, hemp, and j)a.storal rej^ioiis, to tlie suj-ar of 'JV'Xjis nnj tlie f;iild and silver of Mexieo. It is shitrter to (ralvestoii than any roiit(! traversinj:' the nKiri/iim At- lantic States and heiidinjr with the sea-eoast. It traverses a line of the greatest variety of production and largest distrilmtion of groceries, dry goods, and manufactured metals. This /iriii/) rri/iiiii is not more celehrated for hemp than it is lor tuli.Kco, grain, hlooded cattle, and wool ; only this former production is not shared with surrounding regions, where the latter engross exclusive attcnticm. The popidation of the liiDip iryion, in 1850, was 202,413; the assosej property Sl05.44;t.(jr)5. Here, then, i.s an immense and solid foundation wherefrom to grasp •and control the exjianding developments //( front, con.si'ipient ui)on the ohliteratioM oi" the Indian harrier, and the bursting forth of the pent-up flood of a iitrnl pni'/nss. oiif over the prairies which undulate to Texas, ^lexico. and tiii! Moinifdins. The front wave of this flood-tide is already in motion ; its s]iray s]M'iiikles the I'fdi'iin almost to the mountain foot. The achievements of the coming dvciidf of yeare will differ from its predecessor. It will exhibit a greater mass of energy, concentrated i". one direction, occupied by a single object, and moving with immen,se means over a very short line, which is perfectly straight and open. Heretofore the active force of , rrign-ss has been operating round the rim of our territory, on Lake Superior, in California, in Texas, in Florida: in detached sfjuadrons separated from the base of (dd society, by the diam- eter of the continent, or keeping up its communication round the cir- cumference by sen. The opening (katde btholds a concentric ad\ancc, flooding into the cenfrc and reducing all movements to the shortest radii ! Its career opens with a general force of 50,000,000 of population, having gold i\i hand, railroads, steamers, and rivers with prairies on their banks. The difficulties of the icUderness are overcome, the temptations every way increased, the means of motion enormou.sly accumulated. Such is the prosperous future which shines over the central nri^t, and fills the atmosphere to the remotest horizon. This prospective view is not too sanguine, it is not exaggerated, it is only in moderate and ap})ro- priate proportion to the materi'id long accumulating and now b-^ginning to stir with activity through its whole reanimated bulk. Sound health, complete preparation, fresh and mature vigor, judgment, and a defined and finite object, all blend themselves with the immense and successful movement which closes in to occupy the centre of our country, to reunite its flanks, and to adjust its true slw^ geographical balances forever. •uanls (lie si,iif/,,rrsf V suiiar ui' T.'Xm.s ,„J iij:- the hKin'h'iiii \\. •aviTw.s a Iiii(> .i|' tl„. ion of ;^T<)c('rics, dpy laii it is for fdli.icw,^ uctidii is nut .sliiuvd exclusive atti'iitidii. '^,4i;i; tlio assessed wherefriiiii to i;ra,sp '>nse(jiu'iit u|ioii the t'urtli of the iieiit-uj) 1 undulate to Texas, < flood-tide is already ^10 niduntain flxit. 1 will differ from its i-jry, concentrated i-. ovinj; with iuunense ght and open, operatino; round the in Texas, in Fk.rida: society, by the diani- iitiou round the cir- conccntric ad\anco. o the shortest radii ! f popuhttion, liaving iries on their banks. inptation.s every way ted. he central utk/, and prospective view is iioderate and appro- and now b':'":inninff L re vigor, judirnicnt, ;h the ininien.se and ttre of our country, :i(l balances forever. ■VII. AN ORATION. SPOKEN BY noX. WII.T.I.VM OTI.IMX, To Til K OrK.<TS OF THK FEXI.W BUOTnER- HOOD, AT DKXVER, COL0U.\DO, JUl-Y 4, M)S. Ladies and Gentle.men, Fellow-citizens, each one and all : — The return of Independence Day brings annually together, both at home and in foreign lands, the unanimous American people. They unite to express and to renew the fire of devotion ; to burnish afresh the Iioly flame wliich illuminated our natal hour ; that hour when our sacred country was born to a mission of unparalleled liberty, virtue, happiness, and glory. We everywhere invoke Heaven, as we surround the innumerable altars of patriotism, co fortify evtiy heart and every will of our now multitudi- nous people ; to tone and forever in.spire them to perpetuate the founda- tions, the standard, and the work erected by the patriarchal fathers ; to emulate their energetic works and virtues, plain in form, intense in forti- tude, radiant with political charity and exalted wisdom. The solemnity of this day instructs us to look abroad, with hearts soft- ened by a great love, yet stern with resolution, over our vast country now encircled by the seas. The august Congress of 1776 is seen, filled with heroic men, the choice of an heroic people. Wisdom, resolution, calmness, unanimity, sway and moderate their deliberations and tlieir acts. With unfaltering faith and self-reliance in the rectitude of their inten- tions and their cause, they pronounce the will of the American people re- solved for Liberty and for Independence. In condensed sentences, perfect for logic, .simplicity, truth, and eloquence, they face and expel from the American continent tyrants and oppression ; they summon and appeal to the virtue and sympathy of mankind. Their resolutions and their acts, free from doubt, are ecjually daring, final, and complste. In the rancoroua and prolonged v-'onflicts of war, essential to meet and 14 20C 210 APPESinX. quell the implHccble riige and avarice of power, war^ seen the same reso- lute will a like impregnable ondui jiice, an equal faith, the same unfal- tering fi<l"lity. From tliis orJeal. sublime in all its aets and features, eamc forth a rctreu- orated pen, .le. Regenerated ! Because unanimously born to liberty, the menaces and blows of covetous power struck to dwarf its dimeiisioiis, to blunt its freshness, to wring subjugation from inflicted tortures, had been understood, resisted, and annihilated. To LiBKUTY WAS APnET) Tnpjivendence. To liberty had accrued the supreme power of self-discipline, self-protection, self-rule, self-perpetuation ! But the Congress of 177(i, having its origin and its authority from the unanimous will and power of the people, declared itself to be the " Con- tinental Congres, of the American people." In their name were erected and maintained a continental army ; a continental marine ; a continental currency ; a continental cau-^e. Animated by the loftiest sentiments, unsullied by the meretricious taste for power, the profoundly wise and courageous charity which declared and established the independent liberty of the individual man, decreed also that the geographical area of the continent should be dedicated and sanc- tified to the exercise of his freedom. Hence, from these preliminary triumphs, in harmony with them and spontaneou.sly, sprang with ease the Union op the United States of Amehica. Liberty, Independence, Union — these were the benignant fruits gath- ered and perpetuated by the American Bevolution for the American people, and for the example of the human race forever. From July 4, 1776, to the second election of Washin-ton, fifteen years in time., that stupendous and benignant work had matured itself during the maturity of a single generation. A continent cut loose and secured to a new society ! A new soci ty erected on fresh ground, novel in all its element", even in tlie seed from which the plant firsD gei.:iinates ! The oracvilar centre of political faith and power rescued from the huq;e city of Lom'on and transported beyond the ocean to the rural shores of the Potomac 1 A complete and radical adjustment in the geographical foundations of human institutions wa.s consummated. Thought and speech were unchained, and the elasticity of mind disen- t^mgled ; the daring spirit of inquiry set free from restraint ; the rights of man, in practice, proclaimed and perpetuated; monijrchy abolished; universal citizttuship and self-government made perpetual ; the artificial barriers erectei! by bigotry to restrict reason and progress, disappeared, and ORA TfOX. 211 hical foundations of the horizun ull umund was iloareJ to their uiiobstructod expansion and free vision. From a whole po<iple. tluis Qisenthnilled and impelled b)- the lijrlit and fire of univors;d ir<felliirenee, sprang the Constitution uf the United States of Anieriei. This constitution, in itself a sublime mental structure and edifice, marks a point of culmination in the struggles and the conflicts of all preceding time. It registers a conclusive victory of the instinct of order, achieved and recognized. It marks a point of departure into the future, new and fresh as the continent which gives it birth. Condensed in size and form, it is comprehensively complete in its details and e.xact in its dchnitious. Consolidated wisdou; .>ihines from it, as light and lire from the sun in nature. It provides for minute municipal goveriimcnts, and comniaiids self-denial, euervn% c-oncession. uniformitv, und concord. As in our holy ledgion we possess the Lords Prayev, the divine to.xt from which flow all other fonns of supplication, and back into it, they are agiiin condensed ; so from thr- profound principles fixed in the Constitu- tion, !;overnments sound in form ma}' erect themselves, expand to diuicn- sions ample jis the Iiuman family. They may be dwarfed or may decay, but never can finally perish or be lost. Such is the splendid vision which arrests our attention and fills full our hearts with overpowering gratitude, when we devote this day to review the immortal acts and ev.iitod wisdom of the people, of the statesmen, and of the soldiers of our patriarchal generation. Let us remember that the fourth day of July, 1 77(3, was a day of in- tense daring, of unparalleled sternness and resolution in its declarations and its acts. By its antagonists it wa.« maligned as intended to unbridle the furies and precipitate the world nto infinite and devouring discord. Yet we cj'.nnot doubt, we who inherit and enjoy its benignant results and look out over a world regencniicd by its oracles, that Divine Providence suffered their heiirts to palpitate wi:h His essence and tempered their judgments with His grace. The life of a continental people, charged with an imperial mission, is long. Unlike human life, a pigmy in force and swiftly rushing to the grave, avast people ^.rows even on, aggregating and re-inv'goratcd by each generation of men as it apwars, matures, and then departs. The life of a nation has al o its extreme vicissitudes, its alternating periods of obscurity and cf bright .ss. The second <»eneration of American statesmen, >vhcthcr dazzled by the 212 M'I'ESInX. brilliancy <if tlu'ir fathers, or stajrireri'tl to coin[ir(']u'iiiI coiiiitk'tfly the liroComid ehaiijii's, the rapidity, and the imnien.se volume and novelty of their works; whether a certain aweof tiiu jiast and reeoil, dictated a time of lassitude and rest : yet this period is dimmed liy the departure of the government out of harmony with tlio Constitution and the exalted deeluru- tions of "7<i. The divinity of pro<;ivss seemed to sleep : African slavery was expanded : territory was dwarfed l»y the loss of Orep)n and Texas : all things were repressi'd under thi' monopoly of the Atlantic Sea. The grand pioneer energies were itrliitrarily curbed and emasculated; a meridian wall of Indians extended as a Hastile from the Hritish northern to the Spanish southern frontier; the land-system crushed agricultural labor; immigration from Kurope was discnuraged ; a bank dwarfed and destroyed money ; immense deserts, stony mountains, an iron-bound sea, and death, were declan^d to Itjrni a fourfold and impregnable barrier to j)rogress to the West. A necessity to resume again tlu' chains of semi-servitude and monarchy was i)roclaimed. Our immemorial continental mission, coeijual wit' the grand geographical area and structure between the oceans, was lost to speech. Adhesion to rancorous jiolitical parties of the North and of the South wa.s alone jiermitted. Tyranny had re-entered among us. What dismal years of vivil war ; what innumerable and heroic battles ; what slaughter and unfatlumiable griefs; what saugtiinary passions, were seen! How nearly was the jirecipice approached, whence tiie wliole pyra- mid of our glories — Unioii, rndependence, I/iberty — should be precipitated and shattered in irreparable ruin ! It is heri', and upon this day, that we are admoni.^hed by pious patriotism to reflect upon the consuming acrimony, rapine, and desolation of civil war; what positive jiolicy or what lamentable neglect has subjected our country to its dc-^tructive torch, and engendered anywhere among our peo])le a chronic and inplaeable bitterness. From hence, to ponder boMly. and to .see if to avoid it might have been possible, and if its r<;currence may be forever averted. As I am now here pennitted upon this anniversary to .speak to tlie pioneers, s' rounded by their comjuests freshly won from the v.ilderness, and advancing witli magic celerity ; so twice before it has been my for- tune to be with them on significant oc'casions. On the Fourth of July, ISilJ, I was /('(y ; on this present site of Deu- ver : one of a small, but resolute and intrepid camp. Here were Carson, Fremont, Fitzpatrick, Talbot. The American flag floatc>d over us. OIIA TIllX. 213 |ivi'ry was cxiiand,,! ; <:as : all tliiiij;>s wito Wo hat! ivaclu'd the wi'stcni limit of tlic Anu'ricaii torritory, which tlu'ii ulosi'd hori' in a imckot. fiinued by the suuiiiiit of tliu .Sierra and tlio current of tins Arkansas Kiver. In front, beyond the settinj^ jsun, were unknown mountains, strange rivers, mysterious lakes, eonth-uined hy the uniiistrueted opinion of the world and prosi-rihed hy its laws, — an oliseiirc and a fi.reiirn land. Heyond there was an immense, silent, and unfrei|uented ocean: on its outward shore were hundreds of millions of Asiatic jkoji'c, secluded and mysterious euipirus, barred from the world, and only known to ex'st. This summer season, a wagon-road was ojiencd, and blazed throujih and tlirough from the Atlantic to the Pacific Sea. Our flair was !)a]ptizc(l in the s]iray of the I'acifie Ocean. The line of way travel round the world was revealed and ])roclaimcd. The truth of jicoirraiihy triumphed over the craft of jpolitics; the mind of the laboring; and industrial world awoke, iialpitatcd witli conf|uerinj^ fire, and struck for the emancijiation of labor, for its exaltation and its power. The cry <or Oivjron and Texas arose from the people. Durinjr the years of war with Mexico, what enthusiasm animated the piom-er annit's, what unparalleled marches, victories, and cxplomtions illustrated the anient energies of our youiiir soldiers ! How complete the preparations made by tliem for the advanciufr power and forces of the people! Our continental area was doubled ; the American desert rolled aside ; the vast .system of the lonfritudinal mountains revealed in sjjlendor and benignity ; the prodigious arena of tin; Pacific thrown open, approjiriated to America, and occupied in force and permanence! (hM fur the people Willi (h'srot'ci'f'l (iiiif siciirctl ! To secure results so pregnant with empire, voluntary forces of occupa- tion gathered to the 3Ii.<souri River. Assembletl, to the number of fiv(( thousand on the beautiful jmiirie where now stands the city of Lawrence, on the Fourth of July, 184!), T was invited to address them. Suffer me to repeat here now some sentiments then ^:poken : '• The region of gold an<l precious metals and stones is net limited, but is alt- solutely infinite. It is over the whole extent of that primary and volcanic formation extentling from the Antarctic to the Arctic extremities of America, including in its expanse the Andes of South and of North America, the Sierra Madre and the IMateau. " This abundance of the material of coin, wrought and du'elopcd by sober American industry, is about to be to the liuinan race the supremest gifl of divine beneficence. " Has not tlie American cutton-culture obliterated harsh aristocratic dia- 214 Ari'ESDIX. tiuctioiKS in dross, ami thus ilcinooriitizeJ the costuiue of society over the worltl '.'' Wiiat I'otloii lias iluiu' I'nr iMiuality in (iivss, the same will j^ulJ effect for imlivitlual eijuality in property and jiliysieal mniforts ! '• .Stmly liow the iey servitmh' of KurojHian I'emlal times has melted sime the eoiii|Uests oCCiirtez and I'i/.arrn ojieried the snurces IVdm which ]"irt- alile jierscinal jprtipeity has exalted itself ahove lixed and immutahle ylehu lands !" And a^ain : " I'mjuiet for thi . sacred Union is this present time, when jxilitical jMiwer. alioiit to cross the Alle^hanies, si'c-saws on their crests, conntiiij^ the days that j)recede her eternal transit over tiiiin ! It is hy the rapid propagation of now States, the immediate oeeu|iation of the broad plat- form of the continent, the ajrj^rej^ation of the Pacific (^cean and Asiatic connueree, that imiuietudt' will he swallowed uj), and the murmurs of discontent lost in the onward sound of advancement. •' Discontent, distanced, will die out. The iinmen.se wants of the Pacific will draw off, over Western outlets, the overteemiu}^ crops of tlie ^lissis- sippi N'alley. The estahli.shed domestic manufactures of clothinjr and metals will find, in our great domestic extension, tliat protection which they in vain seek to create by uni'qual legislation, nocuous and impracti- cable in our present incomplete and unbalanced geograidiical form. '• Thus cahnly weiglied and liberally appreciated, does tliis Continental Railway minister to the interests, and invite the advocacy and co-opera- tion, of every section of our territory, and every citizen c' our common country !" Looking out at that day from this spot, the eye ranged round for a thousand miles over a silent wilderness, unpeopled and unsought fur; beyond were sluggish people and inert societies. To-day, behold around us the magic creations of the pioneer energies ! Seventeen new States and eight millions of new people surround us ; planted over the area of that wilderness. What an immense geography has been revealed ! what infinite hives of population and laboratories of industry been electrified and set in mo- tion I The great sea has rolled away its sombre veil. Asia is found and has become our neighbor. Her swarming multitudes, two-thirds of the population of the world, and absorbing four-fifths of the wealth and indus- try of mankind, assume motion and advance to meet us. The world has faced about, and has found its true front. North America is known to our own peoj)le. Its concave form and homogeneous structure are revealed. Our continental mission is set to its pereiniial frame, and the perpetuity of the American Union planted sym- metrically upon its impregnable foundation. *i OliA TIOX. 215 (if society over tlii' ^, till' siiim- will o(,|j I'liiiiliutH ! jiifs hiin incited .>.iiice I'l's IVoiii whicli |i(ii't. Mid iMiimitalilc j-lcliu [time, when jioliticiil icir crests, cduntiii-' Tt is liy the nipid III of tile hroiul pliit- !■ Ocean and Asiatic lid tlie niunnurs of wants of tlio Pacific irojKS of the Missis- res of elotliing and it protection which •tuous and inipracti- •aiiliical form, hies this Continental voeacy and co-operu- izon c our comniou ranp;od round for a and uiisoujilit for- -day, hehold around venteen now States ill over the area of what infinite hives ficd and set in nio- Asia is found and i, two-thirds of the 3 wealtli and iiidus- i. •ont. concave form and uission is set to its '11 ion planted sym- Loaviu}; beliind the dual political parties on the selvajro of the Atlantic Sea, we expand to the universal powers and fraternal sentiments of a con- tinental people. ^'a^t j;c();iraphical and social diftcrcnces, ,strenj:tlienc(l lij- rivalry and variety, are hh.'nded, balanced, and united liy permanent accord with the older of nature. Slavery is radically alioli.shed and e.viled forever from the confinejits of America, Asia, and Kurope. Universal citizenship, education, and intelli- gence create, expand, and perpetuate themselves. The emancipated mind of the world, reinforced liy numbers and new powers of self-;^()vernment, marches with majesty and moderation from victory to victory. Foreign con(juesfs on American soil are at an end. America beholds a double human .sacrifice : Maximilian for the decadence of the Old World ; Lincoln for the renascence of the New. In the littleness of mortality we may yet recognize the divine miracle, whicli clo.ses the cycle of conquest and slavery in the world, that human- ity may enter upon a new departure, illuminated by universal freedom. A new and grand order in human aftairs erects it.self upon these immen.«e concurrent disclosures and events. New powers ajijiear, whilst old ones are fondoiised and made active. Our stupendous .system of longitudinal mountains and gold-licaring sierras is a majestic power. Our broad plains, innnense valleys, and grand rivers, all parallel, longitudinal, arranged in compact concord, and filling full the temperate zone of warmth, are a power. Our i.'<land form and intermediate position between the great oceans, and between Western Europe am' Oriental Asia, are sujireme powers. Our sister States and cities on the Pacific Ocean are a godlike power. The American people, having their common home in the grand amphi- theatre surrounded by the mountains and the external seas, will reach the highest moral standard to which unity of language and manner, combined with the genius of lilerty, intelligence, and propitious climate, can elevate empires. The moment is at hand when the traffic and travel of mankind — twelve liundred millions in tbe aggregate — will condense itself to ferries on the Northern seas and to transit roads. These will be hugely multiplied in volume, and concentrated and devel- oped here ; because they have heretofore been dwarfed to nothing by the equatorial heats and the immense solitudes of the ocean circuit of the ghjbe. To acc(jmplish this within a time reasonably rapid, the hoarded wealth of friendly Asia will be lavLshly and generously bestowed. 21G APPEXDIX. We see united with us here to-iiay, wliiit Eun.pe hiis most worthy to be hdiiofLil iiiid renienibered : the sons and daugliters ol" tlie Emerald Isle ; Teutonic men and women ; tlie representatives of lier other hundred States and peoples : they who liave had the great faith and energy to leave lier ,nd come liCre, to unite themselves to us, to our country and our mission. Free Europe flows to us and abides with uh as fresh waters gather to the sea, whilst ujonarchy has returned to her wrapt in the mournful shroud of Maximilian. It is thus that the great powere and forces of the external world gravitate to the 3Iissi.ssippi Basin and the mountains, with irresistible pressure and celerity. It is proper that I speak liere to-day and to this audience with unre- served sincerity and candor. An exact and careful scrutiny will authorize the assertion, without fear to fail, that tvhen the approaching centennial day of 187G shall come, the American and 3Iexican people will be mutually harmonized and fused iuto one poople. Governments, withdrawn from the political foci of Washington and ^lexieo, will be condensed to tlie convenient and efjuit;;ble geographical centre in the midst of the rural, the continental people, among the grand prairies and on the rivers of Kansas, remote from and intermediate between the oceans. These events art-' 'c. V/e are in the midst of them. They surround us as we march. They are the present secretions of the aggregate activities and energies of the people. You, the pioneei's of Colorado, have arched with this glorious State the summit ridge and banner between two hemisplieres. You bring to a close tlic unnumbered ages ^f their isolation and their hostility. You liave opened .uid poss&ss the highway which alone connects, fuses, ami harmo- nizes them together. Of this State you are the first owners and occupants. You have di.sjjlayed to the vision and illustrated to mankind the sjilen- did ciinciivr structure of our continent, and the infinite jjcwers of its august dimensions, its fertility, its salubrious atmosphere and ever-re.splen- dent beauty. You have discovered the profound want and necessity of human society, and your labor jirovides for its relief: (lold — I mean; "the indefinite supply of sound money for the jnople, by their own individual and volun- tary labor." You occupy the front of tlu' pioneer army of the people; absolutely tlie leadei's of mankind, heading the column to the Orieutal shores! 01{A TIO\. 217 idienc'o witli unrc- The mysterious crisis between tlie clashing continents and civilizations of tlie world, lu'ld and decided, three thousand years ago, by the three hundred Sjiartans at Thernioiiylitf, now rests with the geographical States and peojile of Colorado and I'tah. Geogra}ihical integrity is the oracle of salvation and safety. You are in danger of being partitioned by the Punic ambition of avaricious mo- nopolies, and the covetous cities of the Atlantic Sea. No fragment of the peojile of the North Anii-rican Continent can thus suffer their geographical harmonies to be lo.'st and perverted. The mining pioneers of the liocky Mountains, in vice untaught, yet skilled wiiere glory leads to arduous ent<'rprisi', are fit to confront this crisis. Often distinguished by your favor, a witnes.s of your constant fidelity and courage, it is my duty to sound to you this alarm, to invoke and summon you to confront this danger with Spartan, with American will, unanimity, and victory. Our great country has emerged from trials intt'iisely exhausting and jieriious. The energy and devotion of the jieople liave nut faltevi'd either in defeat or victory. A cry of j<iy and admiration soumls over all the seas and all the continents and islands. The piust is impregnabiy jireserved — future progress safe, brilliant, and assured : " Nigllt waiii'S, the va|i(iis mmul the iiic)Ulitiiiii!< ourliil liiiriit into iiiurn, ami lijrlit awakes llii' wurn!." Yielding our hearts to the vivid jialpitations inspired by this day, and by the gathering glories of our country, .so young and yet .so great, let u.« ])ronounce to lier this ])arting salutation : Hail to America, land of our birth ! Hail to her magnificent, her con- tinental domain I Hail t(j her generous ]ieoplc! Hail to her victorious soldiers! Hail to her matrons and her maidens I Hail to the sacred luiion of her States ! All hail to her, </.< kIh' in! Hail to the sublime mission which bears her on. through peace and war, to maki; the continent her own, and to endure forever! TIIK END.