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PEN AND PENCIL SKETCHES OF QUEBEC CITY, THE CHAUDIERE AND ST. FRANCIS VALLEYS, AND LOWER ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. ISSUED BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT, Sherbrooke, Que. 1889. FRANK GRUNDY, General Atana, .r^ flow between , wide , / , ;!.' 4f ^ PW^^^^^^.m^.-^/^-' slumbrous, open to ^ montmobenci fallb, neab qcebec. all the heaven and the long day till the very set of sun. But no starry palm glasses its crest in the clear, cold green from these low brinks ; the pale birch, slender and delicately fair, mirrors here the wintry whiteness of its boughs ; and this is the sad great river of the awful North." The whole scene, from Cap Rouge in the south-west to Cap Tourment in the north-east, is indescribably grand and beautiful, and one wishes to linger by the way; but the train moves on, and leaving the river Ave soon reach Harlaka Jimction, the transfer station of the Intercolonial Railway, for passengers to or from Riviere du Loup, Cacouna, Halifax, and all points in tlie Maritime Provinces. Luncli from tlie well-appointed buffet is now indulged in, and while enjoying tlie good things of life, glimpses of St. Henri Junction, and several small Canadian villages, cottages with red-painted roofs, and the ever-recurring village church with its tin-covered roof and spire, vary the prospect and enhance our delight. After passing Scott's Station, we enter the valley of the Chaudierc River, noted for its gold mines, and the route by which Benedict Arnold reached Quebec, one hundred years ago, after a march of unparalleled hardship and suffering. In the qaiet pastoral beauty of this peaceful scene, in the smiling grain-laden fields, rich mead- o\rs, and picturesque slopes of this sunny region, we see nothing likely to recall the daring, hazardous march of 1775. Starting with about 1,000 men, passing up the Kennebec River into Lake Li^cgantic and thence down the Chaudiere, Arnold reached Point Levis on t)ie 10th November, 1775, with HEIGHTS OF ABRAHAM. about 700 men, having lost remainder by sickness, death, and desertion. Their sufferings on the march were extreme. They were . ..,, obliged to eat their dogs, and even their .• i v> 8 moccasins and buckskin breeches, arriving at their destinar tiou in a famished and pitiful condition. The crossing of tlie St. Lawrence in boats ; the landing at Wolfe's Cove, and scaling of the heights of Abraham, where years before Wolfe liad accomplished the same feat; the junction with Montgomery; and the disastrous attempt and failure to capture Que])ec, resulting in tlie death of Mont- gomery and tlie wounding of Arnold, our space will not permit us to give at length. A short sketch from Dr. Ben- der's interesting ])ook, already qu )ted from, " Old and . aw Canada," must sudice : — "i:'^ C5ap.i NEAR QITKHEO. eW^--.^ '•A month's experience of tlie labors, hardships and losses of a siege convliuH'd the Americans that tiioir only hope of success lay in an attempt to capture tlie city by storm. The result -was a doulile assault from the cast and west sides by both Montgomery and Arnold, which ended in their defeat — the death of Montgomery at I'res de Ville, and tlie wounding of Arnohl near the Palais. A considerable numlier of the assailants lost their lives, their bodies being found the next morning covereut welgliing from two to six pounds each. Tlie vicinity abounds in lakes and streams (witli trout in abundance), wild and romantic scenes, lM)nndless forests, and ricli mines ot asbestos, iron, copper, marl)le, and soap- Btone. Even gold lias recently l)eeu discovered. Oartliby, on the sliore of Lake Aylmer, one of the most beautiful sh«'«ts of water In this part of v'anada, is the site A FRKNCII HAHITANT. 11 of an extensive lumbering establislimcnt, as is also Lake Weedon, the next station. Now "\ve are in the wilderness, where the houses are of logs, and lumber is king. There is something majestic in these vast expanses of forest, and our admiration is further excited l)y tlie spirit of enterprise which is visible in this locality. Dr. Grant, in "Picturesque Canada," throws some light on its earliest iuhabitants. lie informs us : — *' Throughout the Eastern To\\ iships there is a robust strain of the early Massachusetts pioneer. * ♦ * At the epoch of the Great Divide, not a few loyalists followed the old flag, and settled a little beyond the Province line. Picking up the disused axe with a sigh — often with a secret tear — they once in P- st te rRBNCII KABM8. more hev» M out for themselves homes in the forest. Tliey brought across the frontier, with their old Hel)rew names, the pith, and industry, and i. .tense earnestness of the Puri- tan. They transported to Canadian soil that old farm- life of New England, which by its (piaint ways has stirred so many delightful fancies in American novelists and poets. Such flre-llght pictures and winter-Idylls as Hawthorne and "Whlttler love to paint, were here to be seen of a winter evening in every snow-bound l-.omcstead. Among the dusty heirlooms of tlicse ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ * liomes may still be found andirons that stood on early New Engl.'ind hearths. Burned out and fallen to ashes are the last forestick and])acklog; 12 and so are that brave old couple who in their gray hairs wandered into tlie Canadian wilderness, and with trembling hands hung the old crane over a new hearth." From JiIar])leton, a three-mile branch road runs to the mar- ble quarries and lime kilns of the Shcrbrooke and Dudswell Co., where a very extensive business is carried on. "We now strike the St. Francis Eiver, and follow its wind- ing course, crossing deep ravines and brawling brooks, which I.*- certain seasons become raging torrents. Its waters sparkle and eddy far beneath us, glimpses of which we catch through the woods. In the early days of the colony it was used as a highway by French and English, as well as their Indian allies, to carry desolation and death into the heart of their enemies' country. The sub- joined account of Major Rogers' attack upon the I n d i a n village of St. Francis, in retaliation for similar outrages, and of his won- derful retreat therefrom, which is ex- tracted from Francis Park- man's admi rable work,"; "Wolfe and Montcalm," will enable those fond of historical narratives to form an idea of the modes of warfare at that time : — "Major Kob't Itogers, sent in September, 1768, to punish the Al)enakis of St. Francis, had addresfcd himself to the task with his usual vigor. Tliese Indians had been settled for aJ)«)Ut tliree-(iuarters of a century on the Kiver St. Francis, a few miles above it:, junction with the St. Lawrence. HT. LUUm UATK, V(l KU£U. * * * # 13 Rogers set out in whale-boats from Crown Point, and eluding the French armed vessels on Lake Champlain, came ♦ * * to Missisquoi Bay, at the north end of the lake. Here he hid his boats, leaving two friendly Indians to watch them, * ♦ * and inform him should the enemy discover them. lie then began his march on St. Francis, when on the evening of the second day the two Indians overtook him, with the startling news that a party of about 400 French had found the boats, and that half of them were on his tracks in hot pursuit. * * * He took the bold resolution of outmarching his pursuers, pushing straight for St. Francis, and striking it before suc- cor could arrive. ***** Much of the way was through dense spru-ce swamps, Avith no dry resting-place at night. At length the party reached the River St. Francis, fifteen miles above the town, and hooking their arms together for mutual support, forded it with much difficulty. * * * ♦ At three o'clock in the morning he led his party to the attack, formed them in a semi-circle, and burst in upon the town half an hour before sunrise. * * * * About seven o'clock in the morning the aft'air was completely over, in which time two hundred Indians were killed and twenty women and children taken prisoners. * * * * English scalps by hundreds were dangling from poles in front of the houses. The town was pillaged and burned. * * * ♦ On the side of the rangers, Capt. Ogden and six men were wounded and one Inaian killed. The rangers now made all haste southward, up the St. Francis, subsisting on corn from the Indian town, till near the eastern border of Lake Memphremagog the supply failed, and they separated into small parties. * * * ♦ The enemy followed closely, ♦ ♦ ♦ * capturing five of Ensign Avery's party; then fell on a band of about twenty, * ♦ ♦ and killed or captured nearly all. The other bands eluded their pursuers, * ♦ * ♦ and giddy with fatigue and hunger toiled wearily down the wild and lonely stream (Connecticut) to the appointed rendezvous at the mouth of the Amonoosuc." Passing the Basin, a great cauldron-like place, where the waters of the St. Francis are whirled and dashed about with violence before they pursue tlielr onward course to the St. Lawrence, we arrive at East Angus, the site of the paper- pulp mills of Messrs. Angus & Co. This was lately a virgin 14 forest, offering primeval charms of unusual excellence. Cook- shire, five miles distant on the International Railway, is reached by a fine bridge spanning the river, and a woodland drive. In half an hour we come within view of Lennoxville, and foremost in the distance appear the towers of Bishop's Col- lege, the Oxford of Canada, so well and favorably known and T extensively patronized, not only by the youth of Canada but by that of the United States. Proceeding, we reach Sherbrooke In fifteen minutes, where connection is made with the Grand Trunk Railway for Port- land, the Passumpslc Railway for Newport, Boston, etc., the Waterloo & Magog Railway, operated by the Central Ver- mont Itaihvay Co., by which connection Montreal, Lake 15 )ok- hed and Pol- and ut re t- ne r- Ke Memphremagog, New York, and all "western New England points can be reached, and with the International Railway, for Lake Megantic. Every tourist who can spare the time should spend a day here before pursuing his journey further. The Sherbrooke House, directly opposite the station, has the most central situation of any hotel in the city. Messrs. Meaglier and Cot6 are courteous hosts ; under their management the hotel has made rapid strides ^n public favor, and every year witnesses some improvement to increase the comfort of their guests and add to the popularity of the house. The city of Sherbrooke ranks first in population, wealth and manufacturing importance in the Eastern Townships. It is beautifully located at the confluence of the St. Francis and Magog rivers, rising gradually till it attains a considerable MABTELLO TOWEB. elevation. The hill slopes of Sherbrooke arc conspicuous for several miles, with cathedral, college and church spires glittering in the sun. Just above its confluence with the St. Francis, the River Magog descends precipitously 11-t feet in little more than half a mile, offering an almost uninterruptet] succession of excellent water-privileges, along which several large manufacturing establishments are located. This im- mense power, when fully utilized, will make of this place one of the greatest manufacturing centres in the Dominion. There are many spots of interest within and near the city that strangers should visit. Wellington Street is the business and chief thoroughfare, whereon may be seen some fine stores. Passing along Wel- lington Street and by the market-place we enter Commercial Street, cross an iron bridge over the Magog River, and we have before us the Eastern Townships Bank and the Post- 16 Office, two very handsome and imposing structures ; directly opposite is the Magog Hotel, vvhich is favorably known to travellers from all parts of Canada, kept by mine host, Fred Gerekin, long connected with the St. Lawrence Hall, Mon- treal. Up this street the Congregational and Episcopal churches, two very neat edifices, are situated; and at the further end the street fades into a perspective of pretty villas. Melbourne Street makes a delightful promenade with its fine residences, flower gardens, and charming river views. Turn- ing up a side street from the market-place, five minutes' walk takes one past a big mill in full clatter and hum of work, to a slender foot-bridge at the head of a deep and picturesque caflon, where the contracted Magog pours down in fierce torrent among broken masses of rock and between high walls crowned with dark pines. Sherbrooke has a population of 10,000. It has a free reading-room. The educational institutions are very well equipped and efficient. Its largest industry is the Paton MHl, which employs some five hundred hands, manufacturing a particular tweed, famous in the trade ; there are also a num- ber of lesser factories and mills employing a great number of hands, and all are operated by water-power. To Lennoxville, three miles beyond Sherbrooke, is a very pleasant drive ; here the St. Francis River is joined by the Mas- sawippi, which brings the tribute of the Coaticook and other streams. Overlooking this ' ' meeting of the waters " at Len- noxville, and surrounded by a landscape of rare loveliness, is the University of Bishop's College, with its pretty chapel and collegiate school. The friends of Bishop's College, undis- mayed by repeated fires, have not only restored the buildings but extended them, and promptly refitted the library. Among literary donations is a sumptuous facsimile of the Codex Sinaiticus, from the Emperor of Russia. Above and below Lennoxville the St. Francis intersects some lovely scenery ; the stillness of the river here is in striking contrast with its boisterous concourse at Sherbrooke, where the Magog dashes wildly down a steep incline, carrying with it the overflow of lakes Magog and Memphremagog. Returning to Sherbrooke, you can spend the evening agreeably in the cozy free reading- room. Retire early, to prepare yourself for the campaign of co: de] go 1 N F C 17 of to-morrow, for description of which see guide-books of connecting railroads. With the kind wishes of the passenger department of the Quebec Central Railway, we bid you good night, and AQ-RevSip The Quebec Central Railway IS THE ONLY Direct Rail Route BETWEEN NEW YORK, BOSTON, WHITE MOUNTAINS AND QUEBEC, AND THE CAHADIRH ADlt^OHDACK HEGIOH OF LAKE ST. JOHN. PARLOR AND SLEBPINQ CARS ARE RUN BETWEEN SPRING- FIELD AND QUBBBO, AND BOSTON AND QUEBEC WITHOUT CHANGE. ®iis^&oi@ir ^^ek.mQMf iSS^e Quebec AND New England, THE GREAT HIGHWAY FOR TOURIST TRAVEL VIA iUDBEC ilDNTRAL RAILWAY AND Boston &, Maine Railroad, DIRECT ALL-RAIL ROUTE BETWEEN QUEBEC, BOSTON, WHITE MOUNTAINS, NEW YORK, AND ALL NEW ENGLAND POINTS. FAST EXPRESS TRAINS WITH JWonareh ParioF- Sleeping and Buffet Cat's Leaving: Boston, New York and Quebec daily, passing en route the picturesque scenery of the White Mountains, Lakes Winnipesaukee, Memphre- magogr. States of New Hampshire and Vermont, and Lakes of Massawippi and Alymer. 300 milBS of Beautiful Sceneru. MILES THE SHORTEST ROUTE BETWEEN 70 QUEBEC flp HEW YOHK. t t S Ask for Tickets via QUEHEC CENTRAL RAILWAY and Lake Memphremagog, for sale at ail Railroad Ticket Offices. General Offices of Quebec Central Railway, Sherbrooke, P.Q. FRANK GRUNDY, General Manager. J. H. WALSH, GenH Passenger Agent. SUMMER SEASON, 1889. To meet the rapidly increasiug demund of TOXJI?.IST TK.^VEL BETWEEN m mm m qdebec Which hae been largely augmented by the opening of the QUEBEC AND LAKE ST. JOHN RAILWAT, SPECIAL FAST EXPRESS TRAINS J EQUIPPED WITH IDogarcli Parlor Mm Buffet Cars WILL BE RUN BETWEEN Boston, Quebec and Lake St. John AND Springfield, Quebec and Lake St, John. GOING NORTH. DAY EXPRESS.— Leaving Boston (Lowell depot) 1.00 P.M. with Monarch car through to Quebec. Arrives Newport 9.00 P.M., Sher- brooke 11.00 P.M. Arrives Quebec 6.30 A.M. and connects with Lake Bt. John train. Monarch cars leaving Quebec 8.10 A.M. arrive Hotel Roberval, Lake St. John, 5.35 P.M. NIGHT EXPRESS.— Leaving New York 4.00 P.M. Leave Spring- field 8.00 P.M. Monarch cars, Springfield to Quebec. Arrives Newport 5 10 A.M. Arrives Sberbrooke 7.30 A.M. Arrives Quebec 1.30 P.M. GOING SOUTH. Leave Quebec 2.15 P.M. Leave Levis 2.45 P.M. Jfonarch cars through to Springfield. Arrive Sherbrooke 8.40 P.M. Arrive Newport 10.45 P.M. Arrive Springfield 7.10 A.M. Arrive New York 11.40 A.M. NIGHT EXPRESS.— Leave Quebec 8.45 P.M. Leave Levis 9.15 P.M. Monarch earn through to Boston. Arrive Sherbrooke 4.45 A.M. Arrive Newport 6.55 A.M. Arrive Boston 5.00 P.M., connecting with Parlor Cars and through Coaches to the White Mountains. ■ST •'vV. w ^ O CI ,