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Un des symboles suivants apparattra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon lo cas: le symbole — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbo!e V signifie "FIN ". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvert dtre fiimds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Loisque le document est trop grand pour §tre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est filmd d partir de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauuhe d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 S 6 ( r ,1 THE BRITISH COLONIAL LIBRARY, BY R. MONTGOMERY MARTIN. F.S.S. VOL. VI. ' Far as the breeze can bear — the billows foam, Survey OUR Empire!' LONDON: WHITTAKER & Co. AVE MARIA LANE. MDCCCXXXVII. l^il ■:JiK^ LONDON : GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS, ST. JOHN'S SQUARE. HISTORY OF NOVA SCOTIA, CAPE BRETON, THE SABLE ISLANDS, NEW BRUNSWICK, PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND, THE BERMUDAS, NEWFOUNDLAND, &c. &c. BY R. MONTGOMERY MARTIN, F.S.S. SEAL OF NOVA SCOTIA. LONDON: WHI'rt'AKER & Co. AVE MARIA LANE. MDCCCXXXVII. i.7 F5(g o M ='.''; 7 KA <^ v^. V 145333 rJ R , AA Geogi Physii Gee &c. Populi Stoc Goverr mere Pres! NO CONTENTS. BOOK I. NOVA SCOTIA. CHAPTER I. Geographical Position— Area — Early History, &c. CHAPTER n. p. I Physical Aspect — Rivers, Lakes, Harbours, 8ic. — Geology, Soil, and Climate — Halifax, tlie Capital, &c p. 10 CHAPTER HI. Population — Division into Counties — Cultivation — Stock and Produce of each District, &c. . . p. 19 CHAPTER IV. Government — Military ' Defence — Finances — Com- merce — Shipping — Property — ReligiouR Schools — Press, Social State, &c. p. 49 y. NOVA SCOTIA. VI CONTENTS. BOOK II. CAPE BRETON AND SABLE ISLANDS. CHAPTER I. Geography— Area — History, &c p. t>H CHAPTER II. Physical Aspect — Chief Towns — Geology — Mine- ralogy — Climate — Population — Government — Commerce — Staple Products, &c. ... p. B(J CHAPTER III. Sable Island — The Magdalen Isles, &c. . . . p. 11.3 BOOK III. NEW BRUNSWICK. CHAPTER I. Geographical Position, Area, and History . . p. 125 CHAPTER II. Physical Aspect — Division into Counties — Rivers and Chief Towns — Geology — Soil, Climate, &c. . . p. I.'U CHAPTER lit. Population by Counties and Parishes — Government — Finances — Commerce — Property — Religion — Education and the Press — Social State, &c. . . p. 155 C0NTKNT8. VU BOOK IV. PRINCE EDWAIIDS ISLAND. CIIAITEII I. Geographical Position, Area, and History, &c. CHAPTER II. p. l»o Physical Aspect — Territorial Divisions — Coast Line — Chief Towns — Geology — Soil and Climate . . p. 189 CHAPTER III. Population — Government — Finances — Commerce — Education, &c. — Property— Social State, &c. . p. 200 BOOK V. THE BERMUDAS, OR SOMER ISLES. Locality — History — Aspect — Geology — Climate — Population — Productions — Government, &c. . p. 223 BOOK VI. NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE LABRADOR COAST. CHAPTER I. Geographical Position and Area — General History, &c. — Diplomatic Negotiations respecting Fisheries, &c p. 230 CHAPTER II. Physical Aspect— Coast Line — Harbours — Islands- Labrador Coast — Geology and Climate . p. 2«7 'li vm (ONTKNTS. ^;i CHAPTER III. Population — Govcriiim>iit — Fiimnci's — Commerce — Shipping, Imports, and Exports — FiHhi'rii's — Cod and Seal — Value of Ditto— Property — Schools— the Press — Social State, &c p. 2W BOOK VII. HUDSON BAY TEIIRITOIIY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Area — Physical Aspect — Mountains, Lakes, and Rivers—Geology — Climate — Inhabitants — Animals — Commerce — Hudson Bay Company, &c . .p. 334 AlTKNDIX p. 304 I J3 GEO Nova part c isthm parall merid on tlie separa north- from t south- Bay of wick, from s( varyin! ^ovA . i>.2n(; BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. CIFIC Is . p. 334 . I). 3fi4 BOOK I. NOVA SCOTIA. CHAPTER I. GEOORArmCAL POSITION — AREA — EARLY HISTORY, &C. Nova Scotia Proper, connected with the south-east part of the continent of Nortli- America, by a narrow isthmus, (eight miles wide,) is situate between the parallels of 43° and 46° of north latitude, and the meridian 61° und 67° west longitude : it is bounded on the north bvthe Strait of Northumberland, which separates it from Prince Edward's Isle ; and on the north-east by the Gut of Canseau, which divides it from the island of Cape Breton ; on the south and south-east by the Atlantic Ocean, on the west by the Bay of Fundy, and on the north-west by New Bruns- wick. In length it is about 280 miles, stretching from south-west to north-east, but of unequal breadth, varying from fifty miles at Black Rock Pier, to 104 ^OVA SCOTIA. B NOVA SCOTIA. 1 ! ii^ miles at Bristol, and embracing a superficies of 15,617 square miles, or 9,994,880 acres. General History. — Although the territory, known under the title of Nova Scotia, was probably first visited by the Cabots in their voyage of dis- covery in 1497, (and the ancient authorities state such to be the case,) the earliest authentic account we possess of its European colonizatit/n was by the Marquis de la Roche, who by the orders of Henry IV. sailed from France in 1598, with a number of convicts from the prisons, whom he landed on the small and barren island of Sable, situate about fifty leagues to the south-east of Cape Breton, and thirty- five of Canseau, about ten leagues in circumference, and interspersed with sand-hills, briar-plots, and fresh- water ponds. After cruising some time on the coast, the Mar- quis was compelled by stress of weather to return to France, leaving on Sable Isle the forty unfortunate convicts, wlio had been landed on this barren spot ; where after seven years' hardships twelve only were found alive, in a most w'retched and emaciated state, on the French monarch having sent Chetodol, the pilot of the Marquis de la Roche, to look after and bring them back to France. The next visitation of Nova Scotia (or, as the French called it Acadia *) was by De Monts and his followers, and some Jesuits, in 1604, who essayed for eight years to form settlements in Port Royal, ' This name was given to Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and part of the State of Maine. GENERAL HISTORY. DS of 15,617 ! territory, as probably ige of dis- arities state account we vas by the rs of Henry , number of ded on the ; about fifty , andthirty- cumference, r-plots, and t, the Mar- to return to unfortunate tarren spot ; only were slated state, letodol, the c after and or, as the its and his 10 essayed ort Royal, unswick, and St. Croix, &c., but were finally expelled from the country by the English governor and colonists of Virginia, who claimed the country by right of the discovery of Sebastian Cabot, and considered the French colonists of De Monts as encroachers or intruders on the charter granted to the Plymouth Company, in 1606, and which extended to the 45° of north latitude ; the right of occupancy being then considered invalid, and the doctrine admitted — " A time it was — to all be it known, When all a man sailed by or saw, was his own." Eight years elapsed after the forcible expulsion of the French colonists from Port Royal and other parts of Acadia, before the English begun to think of set- tling on the peninsula, but in 1621 Sir William Alexander applied for and obtained from James I. a grant of the whole country, which he proposed to colonize on an extensive scale ; it was named in the patent Nova Scotia, and comprised within the east side of a line drawn in the north direction from the River St. Croix to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Within about a year after the sealing of his patent. Sir William Alexander despatched a number of emigrants to take possession of his grant, who, after wintering in Newfoundland, arrived in 1623 at Nova Scotia, where they found many French set- tlers, the descendants of those who had remained at Port Royal and other places, to whom were added adventurers from the St. Lawrence and Frances ; under these circumstances the English emigrants B 2 I ] I II !l If II NOVA SCOTIA. In the coast which lie beginning inclusively, he south- pecting the interesting to the general reader, or within the scope of my work; from 1713 to 1749 Nova Scotia was neg- lected by England, but the crafty designs of the French to acquire by fraud what they could not obtain by force, drew the attention of the British public to the importance of the colony, and encou- ragements were held out to retired officers, &c. to whom offers of grants of land were made ; 3760 adventurers were embarked with their families for the colony ; Parliament granted 40,000/. for their sup- port, and they landed at Chebucto liEirbour, where the town of Halifax was soon erected by the new emigrants under the command of their Governor the Hon. Edward Cornwallis. The French pretended to draw a distinction between Acadia and Nova Scotia ; and as the country was ceded under the former appellation, they endeavoured to maintain that Acadia was the name of the penin- sula which they had alone ceded to Britain, and that the rest of the country, lying between New England and the Bay of Fundy, was a part of New France which, together with Canada, still belonged to them. The French settlers (under the name of Neutrals) were still very numerous in the colony, and with the aid of the Indians, held the British in constant alarm, and murdered many of the settlers ; after various contests, and much cruelty on either side, the ' Neu- trals' to the number of several thousands, were forcibly expelled from Nova Scotia, and carried in Bri- tish transports to Massachussets, Pennsylvania, &c, leaving nothing behind them but smoking ruins and \m i 8 NOVA SCOTIA. n ■ i I i1 i deserted villages. I agree with Mr. Haliburton, the talented historian of his native country ', in deploring the cruel events which took place on this distressing occasion ; hut the blame is to be attributed to the crafty and Jesuitical policy of the French Court at Paris, who instigated the Neutrals by every possible means to harass and annoy the English. In 1758, a constitution was granted to Nova Scotia consisting of a House of Assembly for the Representatives — a Legislative Council and Governor representing the Crown : in the same year the cap- ture of Louisburgh, in Cape Breton isle, gave addi- tional security to the colony, which now began to improve. In 17G1, on the election of a new Parlia- ment in Nova Scotia, on the accession of George III. to the Crown of Great Britain, the number of repre- sentatives returned were twenty -four, namely, two for each of the counties of Halifax, Lunenburgh, Annapolis and King's ; four for Halifax township, and two for each of the townships of Lunenburgh, Annapolis, Horton, Cornwallis, Falmouth and Liver- pool. By the treaty of Paris, 10th February, 1762, France resigned all further claims on any of her for- mer possessions in North America. New Brunswick and Cape Breton were separated into two distinct governments, in 1784; the latter was re-annexed to Nova Scotia (of which it now forms a county) in 1819. The several Governors, ' Mr. Haliburton, a native of the colony, has written an admirable history of Nova Scotia, which was printed and got up in a most creditable manner, at Halifax, in 1829. J. GOVERNORS. lurton, the deploring distressing ted to the 1 Court at ry possible to Nova )ly for the i Governor ir the cap- gave addi- began to lew Parlia- jeorge III. :r of repre- imely, two menburgh, township, nenburgh, and Liver- iry, 1762. of her for- separated the latter 1 it now rovernors. written an ted and got 9. since the British acquisition, were : — At Annapolis Royal — 1710, Colonel Vetch, governor; 1714, F. Nicholson, ditto; 1719, R. Phillips, ditto; 1722, J. Doucett, ditto; 1725, L. Armstrong, ditto; 1739, .1. Adams, ditto; 1740, Paul Mascarene, ditto. At Halifax— 17 40, E. Cornwallis, ditto; 1752, T. Hopson, ditto ; 1754, C. Lawrence, Lieutenant Gov- ernor; 1756, C. Lawrence, ditto, and R. Monkton, Lieutenant-Governor ; 1760, J. Belcher, Lieutenant- Governor ; 1763, M. Wilmot, Governor ; 1766, M. Francklin, Lieutenant-Governor; 1766, Honourable Lord W. Campbell, Governor; 1772, M. Francklin, Lieutenant-Governor; 1772, Lord W. Campbell, Governor; 1773, F. Legge, Governor, M. Franklin, Lieutenant-Governor; 1776, M. Arbuthnot, Lieu- tenant-Governor; 1778, R. Hughes, ditto; 1781, Sir A. S. Hammond, ditto; 1782, John Parr, Gov- ernor, and SirA.S, Hammond, Lieutenant-Governor; 1783, E. Fenning, Lieutenant-Governor; 1792, J. Wentworth, Lieutenant-Governor; 1808, Sir G. Prevost, Lieutenant-Governor; 1811, A. Croke; 1811, Sir J. Sherbrooke, Lieutenant-Governor; 1816, Lieutenant- General the Right Hon. George, Earl of Dalhousie, Lieutenant-Governor; 1820, Sir J. Kempt, Lieutenant-Governor ; 1828, Sir P. Maitland; February 1834, Lieutenant-Governor Sir Cohn Campbell. ^'l iii n III l!!l II' I '4 CHAPTER II. I PHYSICAL ASPF.CT, RIVERS, LAKES, II ARBOURS, &C. — OKOLOOY, SOIL, AN'I) CLIMATE. — HALIFAX, THE CAPITAL. The most remak-iblce natural feature on this penin- sula of the North American continent, is the numerous inundations along its coast. A vast and uninterrupted body of water, impelled by the trade wind from the coast of Africa to the American continent, strikes the Nova Scotia shore between 44° and 45° north latitude, with a force almost adequate to its total annihilation ; only a barrier of fifteen miles in breadth between the Atlan- tic Ocean and the Gulf of St. Lawrence seems to have escaped such a catastrophe : while a space of nearly 100 miles in length and upwards of 40 in breadth has been swallowed up in the vortex, which, rolling its tremendous tides of from 60 to 70 feet perpendicular height up the beds of the adjoining rivers, has converted them into inland seas, traver- sing the province from west to east for more than half its length. The combined influence of the same powerful agent of the Atlantic Ocean has produced (though in a less striking manner) the same ettect upon the south shore. Owing to the operation of these causes, the harbours of Nova Scotia for number, capacity, and safety are unparalleled in any other oceui ^ PHYSICAL ASPECT. 11 . — OUOLOGY, 'ITAL. this penin- e numerous ;r, impelled i'ica to the cotia shore ith a force on ; only a the Atlan- e seems to a space of s of 40 in tex, which, to 70 feet adjoining eas, traver- more than e powerful 2d (though ;t upon the of these )r number, any other part of the world : between Halifax and Cape Can- seau are twelve i)orts capable of receiving ships of the line, and there are fourteen others of sufficient depth for merchantmen. Respecting the interior of the colony, it may be observed, that of 15,017 square miles, the superficial contents of Nova Scotia, one third is supposed to be occupied by lakes of various shapes and sizes, so spread out that there is no point in the province thirty miles from navigable water. The surface is undulating, there being scarcely more than half a mile at a time of level ground, but tlie elevation is inconsiderable, the highest land (Ardoisc hill or Arthur's Seat) being only 810 feet above the level of the sea. There is a range of high lands on the West Coast between St. Mary's Bay and Argyle, and another more extended and lofty on North Coast, skirting the Bay of Fundy, between Anna- polis and Windsor, or indeed to the head of Minas basin. The scenery throughout the province is beau- tifully picturesque, owing to the great variety of hill and dale, and the numerous rivers and lakes scattered throughout the country. The Gut of Canseau or Canso, which separates Nova Scotia from the island of Cape Breton, is in length from Sandy Point to Cape Jack about twenty miles, and in breadth about one, the land rising on either side in romantic boldness, clothed with trees to their very summits, while the strait being the most convenient passage to and from the gulf of St. Lawrence, is crowded with vessels of every descrip- tion during the summer an«l autumn, and the cot- s' i) 'I :i ii ll I! 12 NOVA SCOTIA. tages of the farmers on either shore add beauty to the natural charms of the landscape. Among the numerous havens of the south shore ', the harbour of Halifax, which has not perhaps a superior in any part of the world, stands conspicuous. It is situate in 44° 40' north latitude, 63^ 40' west longitude, nearly mid way between the east and west extremity of the peninsula ; and from its situation, being directly open to the Atlantic and its navigation scarcely ever interrupted by ice, (as Quebec is annu- ally,) it is our chief naval station in North America, and affords safe anchorage for 1000 ships. Several islets exist at the entrance between Sambro Head and Devil's Island, rendering the navigation appa- rently rather intricate, but even a stranger with proper precaution has nothing to fear. The chan- nels east and west of M'Nab's island are guarded by York redoubt, Sherbrooke tower, East battery, and several others. The city of Halifax is built on the east side of a small peninsula on the declivity of a hill, which rises gradually from the water's edge ; its length being about two miles, and its breadth about half a mile, with wide streets crossing each other at right angles, and containing nearly 2000 houses, and a population not far short, including strangers, of 20,000. Along the water's edge are numerous wharfs close to which ships can lie for the discharge of their cargoes ; above the wharfs are the ware- * From Cape Canso to Cape Sable, a distance of 80 leagues, thore is a succession of noble harbours. The British North American provinces can show three good harbours for one that the United States can. I PUBLIC KDIFICES. 13 houses, and as the declivity is ascended are the houses of the citizens, public buildings, &c. Many of the private residences are handsomely built of stone, and the houses, of wood plastered or stuccoed, have in several instances an imposing appearance. The public edifices are substantial structures ; the Government House at the south end of the capital is an antique baronial-looking structure, and the Ad- miral's house at the north end commands a view of the harbour, telegraphs, shipping, &c. The " Pro- vince Building" is one of the finest edifices in our American colonies ; it stands nearly in the centre of Halifax, is 140 feet long, 70 broad, and 45 feet high; the Ionic columns of finely polished freestone, and the whole structure combining elegance with strength and utility. It contains chambers for the Council and Legislative Assembly, the Supreme Court, and all the provincial offices. The Military Hospital and other structures at Halifax do honour to the taste and judgment of the late Duke of Kent, who, when Commander-in-Chief in Nova Scotia was universally beloved. The dock-yard is one of the finest estab- lishments out of England. The following are the distances from Halifax : — Cape Breton, 130 miles ; Prince Edward's Island, 160; Fort Cumberland, 145; St. Andrew's, 263 ; Frederickton, 276 ; St. John's, N.B., 196; and Annapolis, 130 miles. Further description of the country will be found under the territorial divisions and population of the province, when treating of which the site of the Shubneccadie Canal will be explained. i! a I 14 NOVA RC'OTIA. llivKuw. — The two livrjTcs't rivers in the province are the Shubneeeudie and the Annapolis : the former takes its rise in the hdvcs of the suiue name in th^ county of Halifax, and after a rapid and circuiious course, the lenjjjth of which has not yet been accu- rately ascertained, it diseiubojL^ues in the Bay of Minas, which receives the waters of ten other rivers, viz. the Cornwallis, North lliver, Salmon, Canar, Gasperaux, Kennetcook, C^ockniei^un, J'ctit, St. Croix, and Avon. The Shifbru'ccadic, in conjunction with the lakes, forms a chain of water communication, with the excejjtion of two or three portaj^es, between Ha- lifax and the IJay of Minas ; to improve the naviga- tion of this natural connection was the object of the canal so named. The Shubneccadie is navigable for large vessels a long way into the interior, and con- tains on its banks inexhaustible ([uantities of plaster of Paris and lime, together with extensive groves of line timber. The scenery throughout its course is very picturescjue and varied ; here by the abrupt frowning clifF, with its woody summit, and there by the ex- tended verdant vale, by the unbroken solitude of the wilderness, or the cheerful busy scene of cultivation. The rise and fall of the tide at the mouth of this river is about fiftv feet. The Annapolis takes its rise in the Aylesford plains, in King's County, and after a long and serpentine route, unites its waters with those of the Bay of Fundy, being previously joined by the ]\Toor,e and Bear rivers. It is navigable for large vest^el? for 20 miles above Annapolis, and 40 abov- ^ioiiy> ^^i^d for RivKRs — oKor.nnv. 15 c province the former ftme in thv circviiious been accu- l\e Bay of ther rivers, on, Canar, :, St. Croix, iction with ;ation, with it ween Ha- the navigu- bject of the ivigable for r, and con- 5 of plaster e groves of lurse is very t frowning jby the ex- Itude of the ultivation. if this river ford plains, serpentine le Bay of ^Toone and |. el- for 20 iy, and for I Inrp' boats to a much greater distaiicr ; 20 miles above Annapolis it is bridged, imd thence great ([uantities of agricultural procluce is sliipped for the West Indies, &c. Tbc banks *)ii either side of the Annapolis arc composed of rich an I vcrilunt mea- dows, which, with tiic high lands on the cast and west, form a most pleasing landseiipe. At Pictou there nn: three rivers which em[)ty tliemsclvcs into tb^ r . \m ir, the' Kast, West, and Middle rivers; they arc iuivigablc for hirge vessels. The other rivers it will be sufficient to name, viz. Macan, Napun, Gasperuux, and Phillipc, in Cumber- land ; the Charles, St. Mary, Muscpiodobit, Little Indian, Antigonisb, Salmon, and John rivers, in the east part of the province; the Liverpool, Stormont, Sable, Jordan, Clyde, Slielburnc, Tuskct, Salmon, andSissiboo, in the south-west of the colony. While the tide rises with extraordinary rapidity to the height of scvcnty-fivc feet in the Jiay of Minas and Chigenecto, it docs not rise in the Pietou harbour, on the south shore, more than six feet. The vegetable and animal kingdoms, being sinular to those of Ca- nada, require no separate description. Geology. — A great variety of rocks present them- selves in Nova Scotia, but granite, trap, and clay slate predominate, i)articularly in the Cobeguid hills, (or as they are called mountains) and probably in the other elevated parts of the province : the most abundant variety is the grey granite, which prevails along the shore, and is well adapted for mill-stones ; trap-rocks, sometimes interstratificd with clay-slate, i 16 NOVA SCOTIA. '(■ protrude in various places, in immense parallel ridges, above the surface, and frequently in piles of loose masses heaped confusedly together, traversed fre- quently by veins of quartz. Within four miles of Halifax is a granite rock, seventy-five feet in circum- ference,, weighing upwards of one hundred and fifty tons, poised so evenly on a flinty base of twelve inches, that the strength of one h^nd will put it in motion. Several extensive and beautiful grottoes are to be found in different parts of the coast ; one at Pictou is one hundred feet long, with beautiful sta- lactites suspended from the roof ; another at the Bay of Fundy, after passing a narrow entrance from the sea, expands into magnificent halls, apparently adorned with brilliant gems. There are also several other extensive caverns. Clay-slate is of extensive formation in the eastern section of the colony ; it is generally of a very fine quality, and used as building stone at Halifax. Greywacke, and greywacke-slate extend along both shores of Chedabucto Bay, in which are found beds of limestone and numerous species of specular iron ore. The grindstones so much esteemed in the United States, under the term of " Nova Scotia blue grits," are obtained from a stratum of sand-stone, which is found between the coal and limestone ; they afford a valuable branch of trade to the colony. Connected with carboniferous limestone are the valuable coal-fields of Nova Scotia, which, together with those of Cape Breton, (now working) afford sufficient of this important mineral to supply the whole continent of America, and when CLIMATE. 17 ilel ridges, s of loose ersed fre- r miles of in circum- d and fifty of twelve 1 put it in 1 grottoes ist ; one at mtiful sta- at the Bay ance from apparently Iso several [ extensive lony ; it is IS building /^acke-slate I Bay, in numerous istones so r the term ed from a tween the branch of oniferous fva Scotia, on, (now t mineral land when i the coal mines of even old Eiigland are exhausted, we may look to our North American colonies for a supply *. Varieties of iron, copper, and lead ores are abundant, and we may expect that at no distant day this portion of the British dominions will become the great mining district of the New World ^. The soil of Nova Scotia is of various qualities ; there are ex- tensive alluvial tracts producing as rich crops as any soil in England would do ; some of the uplands are sandy and poor, while, singular enough, the tops of the hills are productive to a high degree. On the south coast the land is so rocky as to be difficult of cultivation, but when the stones are removed excel- lent crops are yielded ; the banks of rivers and the heads of bays on the north coast afford many fine fertile tracts. Climate. — The temperature of Nova Scotia is milder in winter, and the heat less intense in summer, than is the case at Quebec ; the air is highly salu- brious, eighty years being a frequent age in the full use of bodily and mental faculties ; many settlers pass one hundred with ease and comfort. There are no diseases generated in the colony, which is also free from intermittent and other fevers. In order to re- move the prevailing idea in England, that Nova Scotia is a region of snow and fog, I may state that the orchards of the province are equal to those of any part of America ; plumbs, pears, quinces, and cherries, ' There is no anthracite coal in the United States: it is a bituminous substance, whicli is worked at Pennsylvania, &c. unfit for steam vessels. ^ See Cape Breton for mining operations. NOVA SCOTIA. C il I ;) THER. i FAini. ". . WEATHER. WIND. X TS < January ... 42 21 2 Clear, rain, snow. N.S.W. February... 40 KS iU Ditto, ditto, cloudy. N.W. and variable. March 52 2r, (i Ditto, cloudy, rain. N.W. and S.W. Ai)ril 54 30 8 Ditto, rain, and cloudy. Westerly. Mav (io 40 50 20 ;i0 Ditto, little rain. Ditto. N. and ditto. W. and Northerly. W.N. and S. Jll'il^; July 80 o;; 40 Ditto, ditto, and fog. August ... 90 "0 55 Ditto, do. do. and hazy. W. and Southerly. September.. 7i) 51 4H Ditto, ditto. N.W. and S. October ... ()« 51 ■M Ditto. S.W.N, and N.W. November.. 5!J ;ifs 18 Ditto, rain, and fog. W. and S.W. December .. " 25 7 Ditto, and snow. N.W. andN.E. t excellent an article in ordinary mmer heat south-west ation north a delicious eather until earth from ly an inter- ribed under V is in Fe- north-west spring and shore, near 5 not extend cleared, or ihapter, the S Meteoro- tt-IND. nd variable, lid S.W. Iv. ditto. Northerly, ud S. Southerly. ndS. and N.W. S.W. nd N.E. CHAPTER III. POPUL.-VTION — DIVISION INTO COUNTTF.S — CULTIVATION — STOCK AND PIlODUCi; OF EACH DISTRICT, &C. When first discovered. Nova Scotia, as well as other parts of America, w^as inhabited by Indians of a reddish-brown colour, with high cheek-bones, large lips and mouths, long black coarse hair, and fine intelligent, penetrating eyes ; the males in height from five feet eight inches to six feet, with broad shoulders and strong limbs. The two prin- cipal tribes the Mic-macs and Ricbibuctoos, differing in features and in dialect, were equally savage in their mode of life and manners, but to some extent civilized and made nominal Christians, bv the earlv French settlers, who trained the Indians to assist them in their wars against the English \ The wars between the rival contenders for the possession of Nova Scotia, the introduction of the small pox, and above all (strange to say) the mad- dening use of spirituous liquors, have swept off nearly every Indian from the face of the country where he was once master, and but few (not one ^ In order to infuriate the semi-Christianized Indians against the English, the French jesuitically inspired them with the horrible idea that it was the English who crucified Christ! c 2 " l! fi 20 NOVA SCOTIA. Li thousand) of the Mic-macs still exist. Indolent, when not roused by the stimulus of hunger or revenge, the Indian dreams away life in a silent monotonous existence — his only wants are food, raiment, and shelter of the humblest kinds ; and within a few years more the remnant of this extra- ordinary specimen of the human race will have entirely passed away. Notwithstanding the peculiar sombreness of the Indian, he is capable of exercising his wit upon occasion — for example, one of the Mic-macs, not long since, entering a tavern in one of the country towns, to purchase some spirits, for which ten shil- lings were demanded, double the retail Halifax price, the black, or rather yellow maif, expostulated on the extravagant price asked ; the landlord endeavoured to justify it by explaining the expense of conveyance, the loss of interest, &c., and illustrated his remarks by saying that, " it was as expensive to keep a hogs- head of rum as a milch cow ; the Indian humorouslv replied, " may he it drinks as much water,'^ alluding to its adulteration, " but certain no eat so much hayr I have been unable to find any very accurate early details of the progress of population in the colony : in 1749, about 140 years after the settlement of the colony, the Acadians amounted to 18,000 in num- ber ; after the removal of these people from Nova Scotia, in 1755 the British settlers were computed at only 5000, and in 1764 the number of souls was reckoned at 13,000, including 2600 Acadians; in 1772, the reported numbers were 19,120 ; but in 1781, POPULATION. 21 Indolent, lunger or 1 a silent are food, nds ; and his extra- will have 2SS of the wit upon macs, not le country 1 ten shil- ifax price, ted on the deavoured nveyance, s remarks 'P a hogs- amorouslv alluding so much rate early colony : !nt of the in num- om Nova ;omputed souls was ians ; in in 1781, in consequence of a number of persons having quitted the colony, the number was reduced to 12,000. Two years after, 20,000 loyalists arrived, so that the numbers were increased to 32,000 ; but by the sub- sequent separation of New Brunswick, Prince Ed- ward's Isle, and Cape Breton into distinct govern- ments, Nova Scotia had of course a diminished population. In 1807, the number of mouths was estimated at 65,000 (exclusive of Cape Breton Isle, then 2515). Two censusses have since been made at intervals of ten years each, the result of which was as follows * ; — COUNTIES. Halifax Hants Annapolis King's Shelburne Queen's , Lunenburg Sydney Cumberland Total. Whites. Free Blacks. Total Total Incr. 1 in in in 10 Males. Fern. .Males. Fern. 1817. 1827. years. 15181 1392!) 391 350 29851 40528 3587 2!)5(i 82 00 6080 8027 i942 4801 44(;i 171 228 9721 14001 4940 34.') 7 3275 64 49 0845 10208 3363 558() 58!»2 232 230 11940 12018 72 1421 1410 139 128 3098 4225 127 34G5 3052 58 53 6428 9405 2777 3531 3100 24C 214 7091 12700 5009 1041 1348 29 30 3048 5440 2398 42730 39423 1412 1348 84913 123878 21288 The foregoing is exclusive of king's troops, which amounted, in 1817, to 1302; it is also exclusive of Cape Breton Isle, containing, in 1817, 14,000, and in 1827, 30,000. ' The mass of the present inhabitants consists of descendants from seven original emigrants from Great Britain, Ireland, Germany, New England, and seven Acadians. The majority in the East, the Pictou, and Sydney, are Scotch. New Eng- landers about Annapolis, &c. U\ ; I I*, h '•' i-t^-a0t.'%,.^» 1 22 NOVA SCOTIA. 'i It will be observed that the census of 1827 is dif- ferently arranged from that of 1817 ; the number of males, during tlie former period, was 72,971, and of females, 69,577, the annual births, 5246, the deaths, 2,124, and the marriages, 1073. The aggregate of the census of 1827 (the last that has been taken) shows the number of male and female servants, exclusive of masters, as follows : — ropu] .ATION OF NOVA SCOTIA, IN 1827. j Population. Births Mar- riages. Deaths. -<- 1 , COUNTIES and DISTRICTS. ^ -n '-fi = 7 iM Pi JK o c > No. of females i ditto, exclusive o serraut.s. IS. .t: 3 So ■5-3 3 a •a- . « > >5 •il 1.3 si" .si C 3 il No. of females mar ried in the countj during same peri od. No.ofin county du ring same period including laboor ers. ^/'Peiiiii. - \ Halifax 5r>\c> filfifi U2\ llOli M4,19 384 87 520 S (Di S.Halifax 4898 4(114 1 (>Ki) ;i45 10117 370 105 157 ^ i " Colchcs. 3(;o(i ;5,')<)7 a 15 185 770,1 334 38 77 - (. " Pictou . 0-04 (5291 408 29(i 11949 501 70 115 'Hants 3!)01 ;!()92 019 415 8027 330 95 302 Kinpi's 4".^() •Hi.H 51)7 201 10208 3.19 71 115 ■3 Annapolis.. 71, -.2 ()917 ;i;!9 25,1 14001 435 65 100 7> Shelburne . ti\?,:i ,5885 27,1 288 12018 015 129 124 a Queen's ... i!)80 1:11,') 1 2,')1 12,1 4225 153 20 .77 o ■J Lunenbur;^ ■i5:)\ 4288 .315 271 9-105 331 78 123 Cumberlan. 2.i(;8 2415 285 1181 541(> 242 40 4!) V-tijdney 62,')j 5775 1 4;il 222', 12700 508 120 89 _ Total ! 57!)8() 5(i5()9 578;i .1!>i;! 12,1848 4503 945 1 1908 I do not know whether the term free blacks, in the census of 1817 (and which I do not find in the cen- sus of 1827,) applies to the aboriginal inhabitants of the colony, or to the residue of a large party of ma- roons, who were shipped from Jamaica (see vol. iv.) to Nova Scotia, and who becoming dissatisfied, were fori Siel sidJ inh| intc for col( the! \-r. >• DIVISION INTO COUNTIES. 23 1827 isdif. 2 number of 971, and of the deaths, he last that and female N 1827. Mar- •iagcs. Deaths. 4f| s s a. 3 u a o ^ . uQbc hi-c . otcS . : 11 --.' o s u « ;-='5o S5Z.2 a 87 520 105 157 ;{8 77 70 115 95 3(i2 71 115 65 100 12!) 124 2(i 77 78 123 4fi 4!) I2(> 89 H5 1008 icks, in the n the cen- abitants of rty of ma- 2e vol. iv.) sfied, were for the greater part subsequently trans shipped to Sierra Leone. Nova Scotia has been so long and so unjustly con • sidered in England a bleak, marshy, and almost un- inhabitable country, that I may be excused entering into some detail as to its inhabitants and localities, for as has been truly observed by a native of the colony, the extended and well cultivated valley of the Annapolis, the diversified and picturesque country of Horton and Cornwallis, the richness and extent of views in the vicinity of Windsor, the unrivalled beauty of Mahone Bay, with its numerous verdant islets, the whole country bordering on the Shub- necradie, very many spots in the eastern parts of the province, and the extensive townships of New- port and Yarmouth, cannot fail to excite the wonder of strangers, that they exist in a territory which has always been represented as the most uninteresting part of the continent of North America. The territorial distribution of the Nova Scotia government is — 1. Eastern division; 2. Middle; 3. Western ; 4. Halifax; 5. Cape Breton (see next Book) ; there are ten counties, some of which are again subdivided into districts and townships, for the more convenient administration of justice. The only counties divided into districts are, Halifax into three, viz. Halifax, Colchester, andPictou; and Sydney into Lower and Upper. The townships are not all of equal extent, nor of equal number in each county, viz. in Halifax there are Halifax, Dartmouth, Preston, and Lawrence Town (in Halifax District) ; Truro, Onslo',/, and London- I • K 1-*^ *' • «V«.-.M..»^ f,ti\* -•-,. 24 NOVA SCOTIA. ^i< derry (in Colchester District) ; Pictou, Egerton, and Maxwelton (in Pictou District) ; — Lunenburg, Ches- ter, Lunenburg, and Dublin. — Queen's, Liverpool.— Shelburne, Shelburne, Yarmouth, Harrington, Argyle, and Pubnico. — Annapolis, Digby, Clements, Clare, Annapolis, Granville, and Wilmot. — King's, Ayles- worth, Cornwallis, Horton, and Sherbrooke. — Cunt' herland, Wallace, Amherst, and Pamborough. — Hants, Falmouth, Wintt.:5or, Rawdon, Kempt, Doug- las, and Newport. — Sydney, St. Mary's, Guysborough, Manchester, Wilmot, and Dorchester, or Antigonish. In each township the inhabitants meet, as in an English parish, and assess themselves for the support of the poor. Halifax division, containing part of the county of the same name, and the townships of Halifax, Dart- mouth, Preston, and Lawrence Town, is thus pre- sented at the last census ; — li! ? IN HABITANTS, &C. OP HALIFAX DIVISION. 25 gerton, and hurg, Ches- iiverpool.^ ton, Argyle, ;nt8, Clare, ng's, Ayles- oke. — Cum- [)orough. — mpt, Doug- lysborough, Antigonish. ;, as in an the support e county of lifax, Dart- s thus pre- TOWNSHIP or SEXTLKMENT. tit J3Sg Produce. Stock. < u C u SI'S 4105 14034 948 837 76 5 375 310 475 lii6 7(i 10 31 247 365 1375 I88li 590 10 1341 921 294 921 505 603 691 340 744 53 5 55 63 20 110 95 270 50 lfj3 3 110 32317 III 23i;01 15510 4.520 826 190 1940 2580 2840 5.S35 1850 830 960 250 .595 1085 220 Ui30 1480 6143 3980 2.58C 200 2950 8480 1900 11320 4195 8010 6502 .5050 9982 1370 680 1700 23.50 390 170 1530 2080 2310 2684 8,50 3450 350 2380 202642 H 10-2 1 40til 779 1 2.53 14 2 77 106 102 98 75 65 40 12 14 19 11 125 90 .54.3 382 181 8 2.59 301 121 507 233 4i7 384 226 374 43 12 70 114 15 3 .58 112 69 177 33 137 7 70 x' 1 Is 39 3177 466 132 14 20 25 53 5 15 3 2 77 70 272 373 650 6 146 162 183 133 238 507 337 270 335 72 16 19 87 5 58 120 5ti 171 28 139 12 95 87^ i ilitliftix Ti)wn 14439 1312 783 38 658 */3 44 67 56 7(' 425 205 170 42 19 205 179 160 176 .52 502 203 55 9 157 J)tiO 110 1043 2.59 28<) 161 105 , 680 112 42 76 183 39 17 95 107 177 134 56 138 25 66 24876 1020 3909 961 128 3125 4ii5 :m 4.58 493; Musquoildtioit Sett. ... 461 4 44 10 1? 9 2376 642 129 9 41 76 61 11001 229' J)over 1201 68 4 156 191 124 259 107 67 50 8 18 32 17 111 1300 110 30 2 10 80 K7 51 lluiniiiunil Plains Wellington 88 III 8! SpryficUl 24 Harriett Fields 191 23, Up. « Lo. Prospect... 3 89 5' 42 3 32 1; 35 lOi 9 l' 14 2 15 26 11 12 83 93 27 38 18(i 5 249 ' 32 27 5 .58 138 111 195 44 97 13 289 28 202 21 275 93' .34 Portuguese Cove Beur Cove 24 12 Halibut Bay 7, Herring Cove Ketch Harbour Ferguson's Cove 36 19' 8l 35 Beaver Bank 411 Windsor Road 154 Truro Road 178 282 1771 6 214 24 504 74 148 89 906 5i> 368 110 40ti 278 257 45 189 289 378 52 34: 16 55: 20 102 4(>' 88 60 81 184: 10 26 i 93: 12, 52i \99, M'Nab's Island Duggan's Island Eastern Passage 14 10; 48 1301 Cow Boy 50 ?71 Jjake Porter 123' IfiV Cole Harbour Lawrence Town Three Fathom Harbor Chlzetcook 5 20 1 1 1 1480 263 163 543 77 9 45 .'9 17 3 39 79 49 170 26 119 8 59 758S 147 99 257, Tangier Pcpe*a Harbour Jedoru 34; 64 Clam Harbour g 4 31 Tavlor's Rav 31 i Shin Harbour 5nl 71 17i Newcomciuoddy Jecum Tecum 55 4 Mecuxn Tack 21 4160, Total 14460 5426 11873 The naval capital of British North America, Hali- fax, has been before described, and Dartmouth re- quires no separate account ; we may, therefore, pro- ceed to the eastern division, containing the districts of Colchester, Pictou, and the counties of Sydney !' ! I Jld*^^ !ii i 20 NOVA SCOTIA. '■I and Cumberland. The district of Colchester is a part of the county of Halifax, and is bounded on the north-west bv the county of Cumberland, on the west by the Shubneccadie river, on the south by the district of Halifax, and on the north and east b/ the district of Pictou. It contains three townships, Truro, Onslow, and Londonderry, besides the settle- ments of Economy, St'^wiack, Tatamagouch, Salmon River, Shubneccadie, Brojkfield, &c. The township of Truro, which contains 30,000 acres, has a highly pleasing aspect when viewed from the high land on the north-east. The whole sweep of the Basin of Minas, as far as Cape Blomedon, embracing a space of more than sixty miles, h dis- tinctly visible, while the two villages, into which the township is mainly divided, with their level marshes relieved by finely swelling uplands, and backed with wooded and undulating hills, compose the foreground of this beautiful landscape. The indenture made by the Shubneccadie ', on its western boundary, is a striking feature in this scene, and \\hen -viewed with a previous knowledge of the singular character of the river, it invests it with a peculiar interest. The Shub- neccadie, at the ferry, where it is a mile in width, rises fifty feet at flood tide, and at the distance of twelve miles, twenty- five or thirty feet. At times the stream runs at the rate of seven and eight miles an hour, but notwithstanding the rapidity of the cur- ' This river has been made the medium for projecting a canal between Halifax, on the south coast, and the Bay of Minas on the north coast; the cost of which, 75,000/., will be chiefly defrayed by the colonists. ] CULTIVATION. 27 tiester is a ided on the rid, on the J south bv and cast b ' townships, the settle- ch, Salmon ins 30,000 iewed from hole sweep Blomedon, les, Is dis- ) which the ^el marshes acked with foreground made by idary, is a iewed with Lcter of the he Shub- in width, i stance of At times ight miles )f the cur- rent, the river is securely navigable to the distance of thirty miles, by those acquainted with its eddies. It!* banks arc precipitous, but in general of that for- mation which admits of the most fantastical appear- ances, being shaped by the waters, and are in most places fringed and overhung by trees of great beauty. But these banks, so romantic and inviting to the lover of natural scenery, are also enriched with inex- haustible treasures of plaister of Paris and limestone, and few farms in the vicinity are deficient of these valuable resources. Quarries of excellent free- stone are equally accessible. The line of the bay, being almost everywhere level, jjrcsents, with the exception of Savage's Island and the site of the Presbyterian Meeting House, only those views which the industry of man has created ^ ^ I am indebted for these detiiils to Mr. Haliburton. H r u I"! ii I )rojecting a the Bay of 00^., will be l! I 28 NOVA SCOTIA, 11"' i} ■ t I I «• ' en < U H V3 s u O u b o H s H as H o o H < D Ch O S H •31II.H8 x « rf m ?! 1. PI M PI CO — -f" p- « PI in ec CO t(^ in — •tlnotis SI '.a M ■■» ■— — S: >C M 1. CO ri M f CI a: — \s I-. VS I-* PI — PI i— ?i — PI PI M ^ »^ i W ■•iiu«.> ■r. •- -r f CI — in S ?i PI n f CO 1^ I-* p.iiuoii f 1' s -c n> « >»< f — -H PI PI o 2 "* o in m 3» PI "" ;a o PI « PI PI PI -- ^5 « t» ■sasjoji CO • ^m 1-4 ii? BUOJ ■*PI->5»«3O"-<0M PI •»• 'X«H PI PI CO -< rj >-> 1^ <3 —* •sioi|8n(i lO 'n o o w « in ifi 1- i-coo'T— :<'Pi»< c<5 — . — PI 35 PI •simsiKi CO — f<'*>noo3Pio m ^^ -> i» f i» m » -o CO m 34 PI W 'iinuH 0--2 — O'-saiM-*- — 0» o M CO PI SO PI C-3 — PI PI r3 »^ WHO »4 ^« -4 1-^ ts o •sirnisnq 1- in in in CO © ■♦ o »>. » to ci (- ts PI -r — -" I- o »'!>i- ■ o o m CO — PI CO :1g« mi^ciai — ?s-«< o> ^^ tJ > PI PI o rs X 1^ CO •« PI ■♦ S-, CO (^ CO •uoji Bindo,! •sijjnojyi 00 CO Sl PI PI = O CO c « PI CO in PI — — CO o — X •o o w h* i~4 nt •t^ c •3 rt o ^ CO o (< tn H H X S5 13 1 *■ To c« is o H H 1 CO e 7 c i-fil 1l 1^ 1^ o «s o *-■= i-^ tc* y,-; 1 ruro t nslow on (Ion conoiT tewiac atania ilnion liubne 4 ^-^ o > 'B > « HOJwmHwms: i Q 11 11 ■••Is is IS rtg IM V 4) M ^3 $^ * « TO 3 5 "-i >§ S H PI 5C* c 2 ^ V is a; *•=" is •-1 '^ « ii S Hali on t tains ton. l)lcs bein. 1 I is * i T3 p <« 5 2 3 Q e C £ ^ 9 •> 4^ TO 3 ■sis 3 =* tJ*- a. og di i IMf'TOU. 29 PicToi', wliicli i< the third nnd lust district of the county of llalit'iix, is boniuled on the west by the district of Colcliestcr, on tlie s«oiith by the district of HaHfax, on tlie eiu,i by the county of Sydney, nnd on the north by th( (Julf of St. I^nwrence. It con- tains three tovvnslups, Pictou, Kgerton, and Maxwel- ton. The general appearance of this district resem- bles that of most parts of the province, its surface being everywhere diversified by hill and dale, seldom approaching to the altitude of mountains, and no- where presenting any very extended plains. In con- sequence of tiiis inequality in its formation, it is wcl) irrigated by streams nnd brooks, which, by their union, form several rivers. Of these the Eu-t and French rivers fall into Merrigomish, the Ease, Mid- dle, and West rivers, flow into the harbour of Pictou, and Big and Little rivers discharge themselves into Carriboo, between which and the boundary of the district of Colchester, are the riversToney and John. The north coast, though last settled, is evidently the most important part of Nova Scotia. The fertility of the land, its proximity to the fisheries, its coal and other mineral productions, na^^urally lead to the con- clusion that it will, at no distant period, be the seat of enterprise and wealth. The Harbour of Pictou is admi- rably situated for becoming the emporium of the trade of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is already the centre of enterprise in that part of the province. Between the BayofVerte and theGutof Canso it occupies a central position; and from the latter place to Quebec, al.aough there are several harbours, both sheltered and com- modious, it is not surpassed by any, either in facility of entrance, good anchorage, or general safety. t' Ik > I 30 NOVA SCOTIA. IV The great coal fields contained in the district, and accessible only by the waters which flow into its harbour, mark it as the first part where the forest is likely to disappear ; and also as the site of the manufacturing establishments. When considered in reference to the coast, to Halifax, Quebec, Cape Breton, and Prince Edward Island, it is also equally evident, that this abundance of fuel will render it the centre of steam navigation. There is but one point in which it is inferior to Halifax, the harbour is oftener frozen over in winter, but even in despite of this serious inconvenience, it is more likely to become the rival of the capital, than any other sea- port in the province. At present its population i? from four to five thousand souls, whose houses, unlike most of those in our other colonies, are generally built of stone ; it contains several places of worship ; an Episcopal, Roman Catholic, and two Presbyterian chapels ; an academy, grammar school, court house, and puljlic library. As a free warehousing port, its trade in timber, coal, and fish, has rapidly in- creased, the exports alone amounting to upwards of 100,000/. per annum. Pictou harbour has twenty- two feet over a bar at low water; inside it is a capacious basin with five to nine fathoms sound anchorage. The soil is in general of a superior quality, and susceptible of a high state of cultivation. As an agricultural district, it is inferior to none in the pro- vince, and although its settlement is comparatively of recent date, the census of 1827 shows that a greater quantity of wheat was raised within it than in any of the other counties or districts. H < O B H Pi o ;?; Q o H o P (« "A CENSUS, &C. OF PICTOU. 31 < O a H PS o Q < o H O O Mooo — imto — — '■-c-t-ai'i'Mio-f « •oui.ttS ri O CC 1^ rj C I* ^ T1 -^ C*. — • — :r -** f -< O S> -O — • — 'O — T CI C. •-I ss IM 1^ IM •■^ -f o o C-. "rt :/; C-. — i^ 1^ o ct -J -: -f 30 ■iIooilS •^ --o -r ts i~ (M !C o 1- o o o :-i X — ■ e<4 cj c^j »-H cr b* Ci ?^ cc -r :*: to c^ :c o •-^ M ;~ CSJ P, _H M w — ■ 1— ( b SM o 4-» •oini33 C>13DO tic^)^: — -f. io CO rH r- — 1^ 00 o t>* 1^ ^^ TO o :^ cc •?> r; rc t>» tr^ — « Oi 1^ •sasioii !>. ™ — < w — -c: rs M c>i c^i ci i^ z: -o lO W — — ■ 1— o - - — — H •suoi O ^- l>. Cs *f CO O W t^ ',0 O L-^ c*) L'> t^ © ij a; -f 00 t^ — . >o :m « — -^ 1^ « — -.c =1 "0 & 'Xhii 05 1-1 -H — , -, o 1— < o >f: •sioqsuq O 00 O M lO O O O ifO O O CO *o IM t^ — 1 -• (M CC — •.«; K Tl CO l~ CO in < S'oo} CO c^ c^i tr cc GO c^i X lo ir: '-; cc ^ co to • C5 — 05 •-< I--S 3-. C-. o -r CO -r c; IM ■M o u s •a 2 -b;oj •spqsnq t>.TtiC<3 (N eOf-i 00 — e< « N o o 1^ c>i so 00 M -.c CO -o — r-. =1 . lO 1^ O O -.O <0 -t>C50 C0O — 5^C-. Ml^— lO— 'CO-O « joqjo Ol — O 1-1 W — W — 1 l.O CO Ci CO CO >-i — 00 CO •sjoqsnq -t< — — NC0-fI>IO«^O — -fioOUO i 00 l^^tO -.:•: — -.00W5«-0-t<35 OWirs OlMrfit^CT. Ct^COCCf— -fCl 3 -PI no puu'i wo;OTf.- 1 It 1 It X C '■Ji 3 o 11 1 s c c T 1 y 1 i Little Harbour Transient pers< place to plac 4- M '' COiOiOOCev)«iO 1-^ p:; 1 •SUO} O C5 !>• CO —1 CI •siaqsnq 'saoj O u^ lO O O O O t>. O O f w m 05 'O e>) M o 'fs 00 00 CO « eo e^ ■M i— 1^ Ci 00 C3 to < ■spqsnq laiuO e>ii OICO — " — ««O00O a5i-'5'<).5MC» s^ « t^ -.00 — ^OOCIsCiOICOCJ Oj — C») to JO M m -^f o o IM CO W 1-1 1-1 -("(Mfiwe^j-oooot^ »ci — toaJoiioto-Ne^ •MC;i<0-*0"0 — IMOO t-.'.rMCOIN(Mr--.>-iS^ CO uoijBjndoj CO'— CO'OOOt^OOCl'M (M — to — O — Oi-OCO» to >r5 Q-3 tfl 4J ^ Bi S S 12; c fS p: fc< ^ H, I SYDNEY COUNTY. Sil more dyked inter - ised of •evolu- ork, in ,:4 Sydney County has been, of late years, divided into two districts, the Upper and Lower ; the Upper forms a triangle, its south side being thirty-six miles long, its western twenty-five, and its sea-coast, including the circuit of St. George's Bay, about fifty miles. It includes about one-third of the whole county, comprehending the settlements of Antigonish, Gulf Shore, Cape George, Pomquet, Tracadie, and Harbour au Bushee. In an agricultural point of view it is far superior to the Lower District ; and, notwithstanding the numerous and beautiful harbours, and valuable fishery, possessed by the latter, it is also much more populous. The Lower District extends, on its interior or northern boundary, from Cape Porcupine, at the north end of the Gut of Canseau, to the eastern bounds of tVie district of Halifax, forty miles ; on its western side, from the southern boundary of Pictou district, to the mouth of Ekemseegam Harbour, thirty miles ; and on the sea-coast, including the shore of Cheda- bucto Bay, one hundred and twenty miles. No part of Nova Scotia, and perhaps few countries in the world, afford so many excellent harbours in the same extent of coast. ,Mary Joseph, Liscomb, Country Harbour, Whitehead Harbour, Canseau, and Crow Harbour, are all navigable for the largest ships, and are accommodated with safe and extensive anchorage ground. Ekemseegam, Little Liscomb, Little St. Lawrence, St. Mary's, Hollands, Beckerton, Fisher- man's, Isaac's, Islands, Coddels, Torbay, Molasses, Raspberry, Big Dover, Little Dover, St. Andrew's Channel, Glasgow, George's, Little Canseau, Philip" ;;, D 2 !v li i' 36 NOVA SCOTIA. ,! ; In 'I Ilk; Guysborough, or Milford Haven, are all accessible and safe for small vessels, and several of tliem for ships of four or five hundred tons burthen. Although inferior in its agricultural resources to the upper dis- trict, it possesses much greater facilities for com- merce and navigation, and its fisheries are the best in the province. o Q ;£* O CO CO ■aui.tts & H u o ■^ I o _ _ Si I pauJOH 50 — >»> M n — o 00 ■n" 5^ O « o « w o 0> IM .— M c CO c^ -< m M M V » w 50 m N « !>• r^ 00 ^ i-O o c o 90 M uo m 51 CO ■ 50 tit — • •r c-i O lO CO lO U CO LO ff< CO o o 04 •SIIO} 'ABII •S[3iisnq 'saoj -BJOJ •siaqsnq 'uiBja joino 1^ UO CO *>• 00 b» m irs CO ^1 t>» ITS CO W ri C^ O 1^ o o to 05 to — O CV| w to UO 00 o o> !>• lO UO "^ 1/5 -" to -< 00 CO o -»> O OJ — c^ O W5 to l-"- •siaqsnq .-* t>. 1/5 UO ^^ CO t* o b» e^i Ci »»< ^ ^ ^ CO — 00 O ^^ C "O C>l to N O CO o CO CO CO o i-i to ^ t^ CO oj IN 00 00 CO to eo_ CO (>. l-H 00 CO 00 — CO ifl •S3J0B 'pajBA -ij[no pUBI ■uoijBpidoj M to in to — OS M O to to "♦< f C5 «5 00 to t^ to I'S.SP'-S Om^ o CO H la ,- - »t< O -f M w o N. •3UJAVS ta C^ to ir: CI ?■ CO ?o w o t^ o CI F^ F.^ ire — r» «:i o -» Ci to -H .o -o O -J o , •daailS 1- ■* o t>. «o »>. W ■* — -« CO 00 tl 4 » « 35 ire ^ «>. paujoH o ^o 00 00 ^*> ic 1-1 e< M cs »*< 00 00 «-» O X to •sasjoji 00 e-i -j> f w T oo irj M (N •«« 1- fl ?4 •SllOJ irt 'O •*. «5 «3 O l^^ 5^1 C5 Ci SO t^ 1>« 'Xbh ^■i to eo 31 -f O) M CO M « lO C5 o 13 t-^ •spijsnq ~i ci ire o 00 a 00 p:j eO M 00 CO 00 « n* 'saoj •re «o 00 :o « CO o» O . ■M ■* ci m to O! t^ «< 13 -BJOJ ■* ire 0^ cj IN 2 •spusnq «^»>. C5 00 M in CO CO t" ire -- CO OO 'uiBia CO f e>i « t^ o CO o o ire « -< 5^ in iailJO "" ■* •spusnq .-O O O «0 00 CO CO ire CI so 00 i>* o ';B3iiAi T* CO — * ire f^ b- •*■*«-< ire ire 00 ire ire t» o N -" ^^ •saj a» 'pajBA C5 CO — W ■*> t'. — o c ire •^i oj CO in -9 ino puBi o -H CO ire OS w 1-^ CO ire o o» ire CO w to •U( )pBindoj «0 O «D «0 t^ O- O Ol OO 00 C-) « •o 00 ^ 3 i-t n H CfB fc • • • • 1 ndsor wport Imout] wdon uglas mut .. 1 KING S COUNTY- 39 Kino's County is bounded on the south by the counties of Lunenbur,^ and Hants, on the east by Cumberhind, on the north by th Bay of Fundy, nnd on the west by the county of Annapolis. It contains four townships — Hortoa, CornwalHs, Parrsboroug^h, and Aylesford. After leaving Falmouth, and proceeding on the great western road, the attention of the traveller is arrested by the extent and beauty of a view which bursts upon him very unexpectedly, as he descends the Horton mountains. A sudrlen turn of the road displays at once the townships of Horton and Ccrn- wallis. and the rivers that meander through them. Beyond is a lofty and extended chain of hills, pre- senting a vast chasm, apparently burst out by the waters of nineteen rivers, that empty themselves into the Basin of Minas, and here escape into the Bay of Fundy. The variety and extent of this prospect, the beautiful verdant vale of the Gaspereaux, the extended township of Horton, interspersed with groves of wood and cultivated fields, and the cloud clapt summit of the lofty cape, that terminates the chain of the north mountains, form an assemblage of objects rarely united with so striking an effect. i 1 ii! 11 ■lit ii : till • >• /■ -. ■ //>:'>' 40 NOVA SCOTIA. r r V3 U >^ E- O i5 in to -^ n to to •^ •OUfAVS 015 ?1 3> CO '.O ■♦ »o ?*i lo »o -r us — eo CM 00 00 « -t< O O to to •«• •d33ns »< ao 1-5 — «o O t< -r to o> f i-i to lO M C^l 00 to * - CO 00 4-* t-^ 1 "" U) 1 •aniBD "- to -« 00 to ^ Ifi — CM U5 f< PS o CO pauJOH OS CO — — us « ira ■•f — N us CM 1- »-< us -< CJ « 1 to W 0% •sasioH CO to w « CM 0>l to - 3 00 « to to M »-< 'to — '! 00 IM us - ei 1 h 04 to cs H •suoi 1 to to S CI CO CO '/(BH « — 00 c 1 us CM us CM o ^^ Qj U sioqsnq L-S to -O U to C>l CO c s ?o o > 00 «■! CO o < , 'saoj CO lo ro ^ CO -• 00 J> to w to CM OS 00 u 3 -L'JOd to 00 -I" » 'I CO CO CO us "2 o •sjsiisnq 00 O 00 f — lo us ? f. CO t-. 1 CO 1 IM ? to 00 lO I < 00 CM us •is'mo M SM to to O irs CM s* ! O 00 oo •s[3[[snq — o US t: O us 'J' »r S CS to 5 i?S to to 'JB311AV eo — OS 1- < US CM "IS CM us o to c > -1 — f CO 1- o o ^^ »* *- a, \ ! C •'? a> rfi ^ £ If 1^ C4 o H 3 .SS^ o c-a c rt of Dalh included 1 of Avlesfor > M * O M 1« o ° > > (4 fiHo33«<; £ 5 6^ CO ^ £ 2 S b n u •^ > « a 13 <« .•:'S ^? ®i tn fl II O rt i 2J » * r2 rt -^ St a. a "-I _ Cl "O 8 t> u -«1 f^S O 5 " « a lu w 3X3 o •^ "a u « o ♦3 ■** a* o E- •3 5 «;' 5 "-I ^ ^ «o ^al (iti US art .4) J. mS O O 0, Srt *' " a a V 3 O H« p. si LUNKxnuur. county. 41 Li'NKNHirRo County is bounded on the cnnt by the counties of Hants and Halifax, on the north by the counties of King's and Annapolis, on the west by Queen's county, and on the south by the Atlantic Ocean. It extends from east to west forty miles, and its extreme width is thirty-five miles, exclusive of the si)uce occupied by nearly three hundred islands, which lie scattered in groups along its shores and harbours. It contains three townships — Chester, Lunenburg, and New Dublin. After passing the boundary of Halifax county, the first bay west of St. Margaret's is Mahone, which, though differently formed, is equally extensive ; it is separated from the former by the high lands of Haspatagoen, which may be discerned at a distance of seven or eight leagues. There are a great number of small islands within the bay, which afford good anchorage, and assist in forn.'ng the snug and commodious harbour of Chester. Most of these islands are in a state of nature, but the great Tancook is settled, and contains thirty families, who derive their subsistence wholly from tilling the land. From these islands to the liead of Mahone Bay, along the western shore, are several places affording perfect security for ships of the line. ;!. IMiil M 1 I: \ •!...,..->.-'•■■ ■••,^. h !« l! I 42 c/3 U >^ H /!> t) O u a D 1-9 NOVA SCOTIA. _ f « 1 _ ■OHIttS "J — ta i^ " •M-i 3 •1 .14 (l.ioiis — 1, lO •r n n «>l 8 -w M e-i M > p.1lIJ0|I =4 _co » 35 ^O ~i-t bi ■|)3KJUII CO lO S s H •SIIO) O M 3> •t* 00 n" t>. '.0.|[ i» lo ?>| — C) o o •siaiisiKi O "^ »5 O « IM to tf t N.ioj CO M O ta f « -f o 3 -'iH>,I i.T X 2 « ^1 I •SI.lI(St»(J (Off" to 'lllUJii o o o to . to o s>i o PI 0>l o _^^ £ ; ; .Soil "(5 •^ M •fcj M .C 3 o o3 C 3^ H g 'X t« i; 0) S» B i J3 « 3 Qu»::fiN's County is bcnnded on the east by the county of Lunenburg, on the north by the county of Annapolis, on the west by the county of Shelburne, and on the south by the Atlantic Ocean. It contains two townships (Liverpool and Guysborough), and several settlements. After passing the bounds of Lunenburg county, the first harbour is Port Medway, which is remarkable both for its navigable capacity, and its consequence as a fishing station. The en- trance is marked by a high hill on the western, and by low ragged islands on the south side, and varies in depth from five to fourteen fathoms. WESTEUN DIVISION — ANNAI'OLIS. 43 "A o en >^ « 1- 11 = ./: — "' "« •dillY.S T J. 1- 0 3B M 5 M ;« --o I^ f« l» i-> O '^ Tl 1^ CI •^ -r e-i ?i CI CI •(I[3HS11(1 »(< -O CI eo "il to 1? £ 'iiiwjli a.ii|io •SIOlJStKl CI O CO «T -/3 CI •O -. M lO "fJ 1" ""«"ci"— CI o 1 n d ?: is"ul fTci r!"S.~ © S> -f M 1» -O 5 CI CI O !>. 1> CI •8.1 J an 'p,u"A o M My no 'puii'i O 'O •u BjlBindoj CI *o j> CI C^ l>- t< -r >o I- — o M — « -t — — CI CI ! *^ i w ag 73 Ou H 2 g . : : : o X 'A £| c S5 H h"" o o rpool JoJly Mout kfield Ionia nony JitcSiig .s o o •- :< j; hJ p- p- » t. 5 ;■ '1 Western Division. — ^Tliis division contains two counties, Annapolis county and Shelburne county. The county of Annapolis is bounded on the north and west by the Bay of Fundy, on the south by the counties of Shelburne, Lunenburg, and Queen's, and on the east by King's county. It is divided into two districts, the Upper and Lower. The former contains three townships, Wilmot, Granville, and Annapolis, and the latter three — Clements, Digby, and Clare. ]\ 'I li P I' ! 44 NOVA SCOTIA. 1-1 -* »>. t^ <^ — •r •8UIMS 0> =1 rs M — ■* W — O CO to M 1-^ F-l i-H ^H 1— < 00 to in b» lo M o e^ C-) •daaiis — to O h. 0> 3- -H M 1^ (O — IM OC o ii. 00 rj O ■* C>l CM 1^ S OJ - - '4^ ■aiMBo tC 05 05 L-; o tc — 00 o> ro o e' paujOH w 'N CJ 8 24 3 14 00 CO ^■"'-h to ^H 'Jl 14 •S9SJ0H — to —1 N U5 W CO M IM M >-■ in CO s 3 'SUO) N N IN O — C o 00 to to e>i ifs c -t» C/3 '.(BH I— o to m o c in ^; 40 •<*' P^ ^ Ol « CS Cs3 •siaijsnq O U5 W5 ^ t^ N« cs d^ 'SOOJ t>- c^ ifs in o c o o u M F-l O ■* CO C CO >» <: -BJOJ 1^ Tf< If in N ff- to c>> H •spqsnq in o: 00 to o c -« CS 00 — CO cc 00 l>. Z 'UlBiS ■»< to to 00 a c> in t" 00 m i>i •♦ l-l O lailJO to "n w Tfi CO = 00 CO •siaqsnq in ""S-'ifTcTt^ C! %" ;.) M -H 0» 00 to « 'jBoqAV CM l>- p^ t>. Tf o •S3J DB 'pajBA 00 O W OCi u- m o m 05 ■* oc Is. -n ina puBi Is. C^ ^ ^^ to GC •*■»»> e>i >n CI CM cu < 00 to •* t< ^ oc 3 ^H •u j^Bindod 1^ cj — < o» — Cl- in in to e^ to c > to > to ©< e>) CO e<) -" ev 1 T- Z ■" . ■" ; <1 § o H ^ .2 u i g Annapo Granvil Digby Wilmot Clemen Clarp... Shelburne County is bounded on the east bv Queen's county, on the north by Annapolis county, and on the south and west by the Atlantic Goean. It contains four townships — Yarmouth, Argyle, Bar- rington, and Shelburne. The township of Yarmouth lies between Clare and Argyle, with the latter of which it forms a district, and is bounded on the west bv the Atlantic Ocean, SHELBURNE COUNTY. 45 and on the east by ungranted lands. Its medium length is about twenty, and its breadth twelve miles. It comprises about 100,000 acres of land, exclusive of allowances for lakes, of which eight have been already explored. The principal one. Lake George, is, next to Rossignol, the largest in the province. Besides these lakes, the township is intersected by the Yarmouth, Chebogue, Chegoggin, Beaver, Sal- mon, and Tusket rivers. The face of the country is very agreeably diversified, and in point of scenery it is one of the most beautiful portions of Nova Scotia. The climate is more temperate than that of less insu- lated parts of the province, the mercury very rarely falling as low as Zero, nor rising higher than 80° : the mean temperature is about 48°. At a short distance from the salt water, apples, plums, and cherries, succeed well ; and on the banks of the Tus- ket, pears, peaches, and melons ripen. The sea- breeze and the fogs, which occasionally occur in summer, render Yarmouth more suitable for the pro- duction of potatoes and grass, the manufacture of butter and cheese, and the reai'ing of cattle, than for the culture of grain, of which not more than 5000 bushels were raised in 1827. The soil of the upland is in general strong and productive, but requires much labour in the first instance, before it can be brought into a state of culture. The marshes, though extensive, are very inferior to those at the head of the Bay of Fundy. They yield, when dyked, good grass, but are too spongy to admit of the use of the plough, partaking more of the quality of peat, than of alluvial deposit. The principal harbour is Cape i.i I r 46 NOVA SCOTIA. S 'i • ^ :<: Forcliu, which is large and well sheltered. It is surrounded by mud flats, that are bare at low tides, but the channel is navigable for large ships, as far as the upper part of Yarmouth village, and for small craft, as far as the foot of the rock at Milton, while the sound affords good anchorage for vessels of any size. Yarmouth has always been in a state of steady improvement; and from its local advantages, and the enterprising spirit of its inhabitants, it promises to become a most flourishing and wealthy place. souls, houses, hornd. cat. horses, sheep, swine. In 1790 there were 1300 200 142o 92 1330 370 1808 .. .. 2300 340 2000 224 3000 900 1822 .. .. 4000 570 — — — — 1827 .. .. 4350 G20 4000 220 8000 1500 Of these there are forty families, belonging to the Church of England, amounting to 200 souls ; and families of Catholics, amounting to 40 ; and 720 families of Dissenters, of different denominations. There are 10,000 acres of land, 1000 acres of dyked marsh, and 2000 of undyked marsh, under cultivu- ticn, of different kinds. From which are annually produced, among other articles, about 5000 tons of hay, 120,100 bushels of potatoes, 100,000 pounds of butter and cheese. The three latter have most deservedly a high reputation. There are in the township a Court House (including within it a jail), an Episcopal Church, and a Congregationalist, Bap- tist, and Methodist, Meeting-house, eighteen small school-houses, fourteen grist mills, and six hundred and twenty dwelling-houses. SHELBURNE COUNTY. 47 The registered vessels belonging to, and employed from, Yarmouth, were — Vessels. Tonnage In 1790 26 544 1808 41 1880 1828 65 3000 1833 102 6901 Two of these are employed in the trade with Liver- pool, in England. About twenty voyages are made annually to the West Indies, and the rest of the shipping is employed in coasting and fishing. Tlie duties collected at this place, and paid into the Provincial Treasury, are upwards of 1000/. a year. On all the rivers there are contiguous lines of settle- ment, and the clusters of the farm-houses, in some places, f\;>;^or!ch to the village form, as at the Che- bogue C;t t. 'hio, Wellington, &c. Yarmouth and Milton aiv: oidssed among the towns of Nova Scotia. The former is situated on the east side of the prin- cipal harbour, and contains, in the length of a mile, seventy-five dwelling-houses, exclusive of stores and other buildings. There are nine trading establish- ments in it, besides small retail, and mechanics^' shops. It has also a social library, established by subscription. At the latter place there are twenty- two houses within a less space, and three trading establishments ; and at Chebogue four more. Che- bogue river is navigable six or seven miles from the sea, and expands at its mouth into a good harbour. i i' 48 NOVA SCOTIA. AGRICULTURE. i 2 Produce. Stock. TOWN- « SHIPS. c 2S Si *jri c 2 . bo M Oj . 1m s2 i ^ £ ^ i^M ci K k5 1 g 5 1 w Slielburne 2(i97 3133 29.5 2011 42701 2408 41 2428 ' 4993 1 il754 Barrlngton 2186 lf)87 20 590 47020 1651 IG 1.323 4002 1221 Argyle 2790 2640 If) 1 063 i 103837 3212 42 2566 ' 3940 !l555 Y'armouth 434') 10039 115 4798 114692 5022 220 319 3722 7817 14.5(; Total ... 12018 17499 445 9062 308250 12293 10039 207.52 '59«() The foregoing details, liowever tedious they may appear, will convey to a philosophical mind a more perfect idea of the actual state of the colony, as also its distribution of population, better than any topo- graphical descriptions, however elaborate and mi- nute. The great extent of land under cultivation — the produce (though the returns here stated are all under the mark, as a tax was dreaded) thereof — and the stock thereon, will all demonstrate that Nova Scotia is not the barren, foggy land it has so unjustly been represented. CHAPTER IV. nOVERNMENT — MILITARY DEFENCE — FINANCES — COMMERCE — SHIPPING — PROPERTY — RELIGIOUS SCHOOLS — PRESS- SOCIAL STATE, &C. Nova Scotia is governed somewhat after the man- ner of Upper and Lower Canada — i.e. by a Governor (styled Lieutenant-Governor, as in Upper Canada), Council, and House of Assembly. The President of the Council is the Chief Justice of the province ; the next in station is the Bishop, and there are ten other members. The House of Assembly con- tains forty members, each of the ten counties return- ing two, except the county of Halifax, which returns four, and the town of Halifax two. The following towns return each a member to the Provincial Par- liament : — Truro, Onslow, Londonderry, Annapolis, Granville, Digby, Lunenburg, Amherst, Horton, Cornwallis, Windsor, Falmouth, Barrington, Liver- pool, Newport, Shelburne, and Yarmouth. This is independent of Cape Breton, which is connected with Nova Scotia as a county, and returns two members to the provincial House of Assembly. The House of Assembly, as in Lower Canada, claims the entire control over the provincial revenue, offering in return to grant a reasonable fixed civil i'.i NOVA SCOTIA. £ 50 NOVA SCOTIA. i( list to the Crown, which I believe has been granted since the first edition of this work was published. The laws are administered by a Court of King's Bench and district courts, P"^ in Canada. The laws in force, are — 1. The common law of England; — 2. The statute law of England ; and 3. The statute law of Nr r Scotia. Mn ARY Defence. — The militia, throughout the Ameri^dii war, was, as justly observed by Mr. Hali- burton, in a very effective state. At present the Legislature feels a natural reluctance to impose much military duty in a time of profound peace, upon a new settler, whose attention and continued presence are required upon his farm. The law enacts that every male, from sixteen to sixty, shall be enrolled as a militia-man, excepting the members of the Legislature, lawyers, magistrates, surgeons, and officers of the civil and military de- partments. Every regiment, if capable, is divided into battalions, which consist of not less than 300, nor more than 800 men. Every battalion is again divided into companies, which consist of not less than thirty, nor more than eighty men ; and the whole are under the superintendence of military inspecting field officers, who review them on the days of regi- mental meeting. The number of enrolled militia amounted at the last census to 21,899. MILITARY DEFKNCK. 51 I DISTRICT. • CORPS. o 53 si 17 43 29 28 34 31 35 37 33 38 30 44 24 27 27 28 20 20 21 33 19 36 36 36 15 782 37 14 31 22 Halifax ^ Colchester | Pictou 1 Sydney | Cumberland 1st Vol. Artillery comp. . 2nd Ditto 82 80 1027 510 919 688 857 1180 1058 1152 998 914 842 603 887 4.54 791 613 775 1 359 ! 411 1 604 667 I 440 1 1st Halifax Regiment ... 2nd Ditto 3rd Ditto Is* Battalion 2nd Ditto 1st Battalion 2nd Ditto 1st Battalion 2nd Ditto Re£?iment Hants County | King's County rt jj'kE. Regiment... | < p. 1 W. Regiment.. Shelburne Regiment ■[ Queen's County 1st Battalion 2nd Ditto 1st Battalion 2nd Ditto 1st Battalion 2nd Ditto 1st Battalion 2nd Ditto 1st Battalion 2nd Ditto 3rd Ditto 4th Ditto Regiment 633 Lunenburg < Parrsliorouffh 1st Battalion 822 656 j 31 S ■ 2nd Ditto (!nrns Cape Brel 1st Regiment on Militia. 1st Battalion 19319 1 lfl2'i ' 9n/l niftn 540 \ 547 ' 2nd Regiment 1st Battalion Onrl Ulttn 468 : c 3rd Regiment ( 1st Battalion 104 2580 I Total 886 21899 111. About 350 rank and file, formerly a part of the eighth Battalion, and the men of colour, are not in- cluded in this return. The king's troops consist of artillery and engiiieer detachments, and two regi- ments of infantry. Halifax is the chief naval station e2 \i t ii 52 NOVA SCOTIA. for the West Indies and North America, the Com- mander in Chief heing a Vice Admiral, with a suit- able fleet. The forts protecting Halifax town and harbour are strong, and the interior of the country is efliciently guarded by its brave militia. Return o^ the Numbers and Distribution of the efltective Force, Officers, 1 '^on-commissioned Officers, and Rank and File, of the British Army, including Colonial Corps, in each year, since 1815 ; includmg Artillery and Engineer : — Date. Jan. 25, 1810 1817 1818 1819 1820 1821 1822 1823 1824 182,') 1826 1827 1828 1829 18;i0 Jan. 1, 1831 1832 1833 OUicers Present, or on Detached V at the Stations. W fa •0 « (W 1 «3 bfi <-'*-' in u a o 6 en 6 : 5 id 5 a S 2 .1 ca B u Adjutan lar.-Mas Surgeon 3 up CO < c •c CO S B g 1 5 29 72 20 3 4 5,5 A 201 85 3078 • •• 2 33 79 32 5 5 4 3 9 185 95 2970 • •• • 5 29 3C 20 4 4 4 5 4 159 i»- 2558 ■ >• 3 4 24 38 19 4 4 4 4 5 131 6(t 2077 tai 4 6 19 32 22 2 4 3 3 6 105 C3 1989 *•• 4 7 2.5 34 20 .1 3 3 3 3 104 ) w w ev< >-• 11 • t^ u n 00 ; m oi t>. o e^ t- o ci CO «- M : o n « ifj c^ ec oo o *0 CO U3 f Hi : eo iM • 00 : o o M <9pu, to s CO 6 '!''« a S S s.- o 1^ <*< OS ■* o l» -O 00 »^ CO IM : IM CO o o to 00 CO tc IM CO CO CO ^mo«o :oo :c4!oo 'ouoooj-. >»JIM«— to •'^ I'll — CO .OWi—iCOW ^«0 co:^n; ^h;i— t o» M : : : CO © to o 0>0000»rauo ;0000OC0t0r-«C0OO 'IM t-fooojcooo :«ocoe>iiM-iC4>Oi->^iuO O 3 B O ,0 tj s:>Htq;55!«^<5WwPQ!^ 18331 110 1834 123 I I Gt. Hritain. No. 98 87 81 110 117 Tons. 2.372f» 210.')1 21593 27002 311,'}3 30521 27454 29040 Dritish Cul. No 828 1040 1502 1689 2343 1805 1.347 1697 Tons 575;m 90800 90324 9H005 127090 154842 929f{2 109031 I'orKn.StatcN, No. I 92 113 169 170 213 253 493 1348 Tons. No, 8104 1018 Total InwanlM. 11110 17898 24270 1840 1802 1805 275(;f{ 2073 30090 2104 42909' 1950 37054 3008 I Tons. 89423 129027 1298151 149.343 185797. 210053; 103385 253921 57 OUTWARDS. Year. Gt. Rritain. British Col. I'oreignStates. 1 Tot.Out wards. 1 No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. 1 1820 74 19307 1002 69416 86 8140 1101 90803 1827 90 22615 1800 100324 112 10874 2002 1,3.3813 1829 71 18682 1632 103265 154 17412 18571.387591 18.30 88 22027 1569 1074991 203 24248 1850153770J 1831 07 24800 2434 164330 240 29577 2771 2187071 1832 7519936 2009 177894 316 37137 2399 2,34967| 23.30 179956 18.33 10425429 1398 96838; 493 44875 1834 122'29906i 1510 1 1 1 1091701478 111163 3116 260239! 1 I i : /' 58 NOVA SCOTIA. 1 . i !1 C5 N ueooTti: :::: : «^ci : a «) tn 55-H (N .* — CO CO • U5 t— M C5 e^ W U> «^ — P3 OS «5 W h. 00 ■<*> : 'o «o Oosco-* to — ,-1 . — 1 F* .4-1 >o 3 N o _ 1 3 *— e^oo: :::: : ow : C«l «o c3 25— CO >— • : : : : : co — : * .-4 CO -M • 05 M 1/5 — W Cs 0> U5 50 CO -< «0 ■* IM 5 :o u5 1>. «o : e« : ; c^i I-. — • • lo oc us — : •♦ —1 m . "^ ^ l>- ■3 4) •3 u CO t- ! ! : o) ! : — 00 : eo g >->•-• >»< •»»< CO s lO s "O 2cooe>irc :w : •mocoooo : :int^o-o :e>iC'-> gmt-c-iM .CO ! :!3M — CO : .«5mc5— " .ooe^o ,000000 10 lOOi r- Eh IN cot*. 00 — 00 h : *^ c^ S.I (4 . e^ C-. :4 pf CO O IC >< IM o"5oowcs zoi ; : — WNcoi— : ••<*< — ooe^ . — mim :co|oo i 1-^ — 000 : ; :« : : — 00 . >- A 1-. CO w — — — -1 CO '■*'*' 00 ia ^ 01 eo 00 — IM c^ - 1» : ev) f : : : :i->'-i : : : 05 so 00 : : rt- to Oi— t.t>»o. ... ...LO^ ... I ^^ , g-, -^ cs M Tons. 25429 27430 69 '66 11*2 90 • •• 350 237 31666 9549 1584 "93 »^ « ^ : ' s to .4.1 to 3 o d V"^ rC^'t* I r^ r-t • • '^W 1 : "C^lftO ; ' ;i-4 : e^ •o c cs ; c» : : : : : : :c5«>.— . . . =3 ^ ti CI — CO n .*.* r;I^'Mr5'>t.t^-+ CO — CO l^-t> *-M lO ^ S 'n t>. a^ rp to ^ :ir:Ci«ooco ; • •■^moo :oOO ; ; 10 00 S s Tt" CO cs IN — : oi 03 ss — 00 : : :'.j trl CM c^ ;o eo to >< ^' •ocooj-.oe>i«-< :e^)'.«>.o I'-'-i : 0— ooTt< : :::cnt* ;• : 1.^ «5 Z— t:-=' w o> ^.^ 1.^ . . . . w I ? : • ; "u _u : « ■" ^ ! «3 ■*-» : "i : t'^ >. a !: h: ^.1 1 Jerse [ndies erican eghom • C adeira, ibralta ritish ' n ditto to .... S2 p. "« 1 CM S-< -3 §> P ■a a I ^!5 pq British N. Bordeaux Ouorto an i iCd, — +J 5 c N 1= Hamburgl Naples, fo South Sea TO -3 .Z <— to s s i2 u >5 «M u n) Cm s CO tJ > BJ Ih ^j VI ^ SHIPPING. 59 C4 to o o CO CO .-1 00 o o •OS 00 n to © _ o .2 '3 o 3 't; bo rt C3 O CO CI V3 OJ t/1 3 o •s o a;" ^f ^ to ^ «r OS y o "5 ,"2 ■" 'rt a> "S to M to "^ >'^ o to i> O •£§ -w ;> u •^ rt «-■ ^.t CO i Value. •gjiodxa 0^*OCO».^t^Ot^»0»OWW^Ci05CO .t---t>t^-HOOt^«OiOtOiO-<'»'>-'OCO 1:1 « o --a c>i M C5 ■«*< f » f. c>i CO « o in *+5OSStN.00«00O00Cl'»3»W»5')»e0 M MM.-! eo iM 185807 •sjjodtui 00OS5Ot»»^t^00O;0Ol^c000t^ .oooeo — oc5t>.cn-HO-*1 00 00 «s t>. t^ o *n»t.cit-ooeooointocoe^ot^w-" 00 CO to o H •SI3SS0A weooo.-io-foooooi^ooi^ OW-^t^f^Cqif^^MOOC^I^-^HO^'I^HPO to to 5? dif5m5>iioooe^«^ — iomocjT*f5 t- Tf< CO O C5 «>!•*• M -< tS irj >-l — ' r2 3 .2 u S •SUO} 008 JSAO to 00 Cs ws s c: o :::::;::: i>. :: : o-t>co t^... 00 o 6 Tf< « iz; ::::::::: 5^ :: : w •008 lapun puB 'ooe -laAO Tons. 792 209 467 t)0 to d CO : ::::—:: :e^ ::: : to 'ooe JDpun puB '001 J3A0 •001 Japun put? 'suo; 05 -laAQ w C5 CO CO CS O ~ to CO >n -H O — C — — o : •«^oc>jio>nco't> :oo(m o to —1 — ! : « CO -*■ CO CO CO oi . CO rr 00 i.O OS o uo — 1-1 : : to s^ CO CO CO 00 00 : CO CO ;z5 • •- - . to to cffCOt^tO»^OOlOOCOTtiocotocooso-«?oev)to :oco o t^ lo Cj CO o f CO CO •* uo to — : to w in o — < dioiqitjiofs — ■^totowwto toO'* ^ e^ « « — 1 e^i eq ^ : to •suoj OS -lapun t«f— C5N — co-HOtOCOOtOLOOCO-ti SOOCOi^lf^'-'WJ'M— 'l>-CiiO^^»>»CO»>» O'OlfStOOS'OirSTfiO'J.CNl^'-'IM.— »^ •^ m lO doo-««ooeoino«toci«co'««toao 55 — . iti tN CO m ic iM ■?3 -- >-i eo CO •s to to § U en •siauooqos diOOO — O«^00(M00— ■tOOiCSfOM >^coto>t)coiNi-i-»-i 00 • e>» co •sdiiis d"5'^:::::::::«::: t5 CO 03 H PS O 0H c ! i i i 1 13 O u .c Shelburne Argj'lc Barrington Yarmouth North Edinburgli Annapolis Digby Cornwallis Windsor Pirtnii Cumberland Parrsborough .... Guysborough .... 3 a o o o i-O c -.4 l-t r5 ^ •S o CO o to e V 00 .s 'S. .£* n i « Pi ll I' 'HI* ii i I If^S 60 NOVA SCOTIA. The value of the Nova Scotia trade to England and to our other colonies, may be estimated by the annexed document : — NOVA SCOTIA TRADE VALUED IN STERLING MONEY. 1 Brit &c. arti< grin \^ ' * IMPORTS FROM Years. Great Britain. British Colonies. Foreign States. Total value. 1 1822 1826 1827 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 £. 262372 287076 307907 418604 418572 579755 £. 137932 254077 190309 276291 501703 637766 £. 81149 197028 312603 447604 484878 312389 £• 1 481453 1 738181 810819 1142499 1405153 1529910 I 035660' EXPORTS TO Years. Great Britain. British Colonies. Foreign States. Total value. 1822 1826 1827 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 £. 29745 142179 121617 87820 117795 129442 £. 210062 293192 107738 450713 535245 689707 £. 7045 19251 36922 51535 61825 81924 £. 246852 454262 266277 590068 714':65 9010/0 887367 * The Choiira panic has had an extraordinary influence in checking the trade of our North American Colonies during the last two years. In I ing re EXPORTS AND PROVISIONS. 61 The Imports of Nova Scotia consist principally of British manufactures and spirits, sugar, wines, coffee, &c. from our colonies (see Revenue). Its principal articles of Export are fish, timber, beef, pork, flour, grindstone, and gypsum. bo a •rH o c ■»-> > ^ O) ffl &, d rt ri U cS Ml •-J o ^ 0) -4-) > to d X TS 0) S o % tM o m H i:d o Pk ixl W o» to cs 00 o to eg ■<*< e-i to CO to * M 31 O C^ >^ CO to •^ 05 to ?3 00 n W >0 M — Ttl CO 05 t>» ire CO ..^ CO 00 e^ M « rt to CO f ire e>l CO to W CO U5 CO cn t^ CO oo ■* O O 00 IN 00 Tf» eg m ■* eg M ^- o -^ !>• ;o cs uo 00 r- 00 -. OJ « o t>. tc o — o 3> t~ tct^ — • CO —1 o «o M 00 ire C5 ■^ ~ eg eg « O CO ■M f to eg ■* ■* M o h- CO — o» to e»i — C5«^ o o to uo CO tn cc oo : C-5 ■*t« ;0 ^^ C3 C-I C^l CO 00 to to CO : CO C5 — M CO CO t^ 00 00 eg : Ttl O « CO ■* ire CO lO W M C5 e>> m to CO eg -H ire — o CO 3» 00 ire 1^ o eg ire • m to t^ 00 .*• n 1— » ■M oo o rj o : 00 CO — 'rs W to f o CO -M CO • *-H CO o •*■ w ■) 1^ ■* f— . o e^i C'l as o . 00 fi 00 're CO lO 00 o 00 ■*! ; — w-* w eg IM to : - ..^ o to ■<*< o o ire t^ Oi : : o o CO o\ ■re *^ : : ! M . . to CO Oi to s CO : : : 00 : : m to iM ■* -n o to : : : • . to -r eg eg c-. to . . . S I i-T'^tfl^r"^" ~ « M w ej _. i« o --. 4> .Q mbi ons inta rrel Ifd § 3 a; ;£ ^ M O 3 <-• a es t« +.» 4-* t^ 3 2 3*' * : •-« : -\ : ^ : : -M ! Seal Skins . Oil Fish, Dry .. Do. Pickled. Do. do 13 s: S IS o 1^ sorts Gypsum .... Boards and planks Vegetables . Spars Staves Grindstones |e in the In order to afford a comparison, I give the follow- ing returns of the fish exports in 1806 and 1807. i i ■' 1 ! A 62 NOVA SCOTIA. Dry and Pickled Fish, and Fish Oil, exported from Halifax in 1806 and 1807:— . en bo a 1 H •3 . . c Dry Fish. Pick- led Fish. Smoked Herrings c «3 c (i4 1 ISOfi— To West Indies €<> To U. States., i^.' 7337 ,')203 416 270 qntls. 38896 19769 brls. 18779 1C6S1 brls. kegs, bxs. 242 1228 106 191 No. 386 289 casks 972 338 To^al 1807— To Wes: Indies To U. States... Total 12c 82 52 12540 9609 4297 086 549 228 58665 35460 .■54155 27117 11009 14445 348 48 20 1419 5248 195 675 704 167 134 13006 777 65164 41562 68 5443 87, Principal articles of Export from Nova Scotia, from 1822 to 1832:— :fi Years. ■ Dry Fish. Pickled Fish. Flour. Beef and Pork. Quintals. Barrels. Barrels. Barrels. 1822 27105 2823 1330 45549 1826 1 07323 50873 5802 523 1827 17015G 47693 27042 1854 1829 181030 45177 27903 8632 1830 159618 97998 375907 4084 183] 159023 93387 26992 4006 The quantity of timber shipped from the colony in 1833, was — square timber, 38,191 tons, at 15s. per ton, 29,643/. ; deals and boards, 9,984,000, value 24,280/.; lathwood, 228 loads ; staves, 2,714,000; shingles, 3,042,000 ; handspikes, 2300 ; oars, poles, 1 ly in per iluc 100 ; VALUE OF PROPERTY. 63 &c., 3894 ; masts and spars, 642 ; hoops, 228,150; from Cape Breton, value 1972/. : total, worth 62,447/. The total value of the produce of the mines exported, was 105,329/. ; and of the fisheries, 127,456/. Value of Property annually created in Nova Scotia and Cape Breton, and, if not consumed, converted into Moveable or Immoveable Property : — £. Wheat, 200,000 bushels, at Gs. per bushel ... 60,000 Other Grain, 500,000 bushels, at 3s.Gd. per bushel . . 87,500 Potatoes, 4,000,000 bushels, at Is. per bushel 200,000 Hay, 200,000 tons, at 10s. per ton 100,000 Animal Food lor 200,000 mouths, at 200 lbs. each per annum, at 4d. per poun^j^ H66fi6G Fish for 200,000 mouths, at 150 lbs. each per annum, at lid. per pound 187,500 Cheese, butter, and milk, for 200,000 mouths, at Id. per day for 3(i5 days 304, IfiC Vegetables, fruit, eggs, &c. for 200,000 mouths, at lid. per day each 912,500 Beer, spirits, and wine, for 200,000 mouths, at 3rf. per day for 305 days 912,500 Luxuries, viz. — Sugar, tea, coffee, &c. for 200,000 mouths, at 3d. per day for 365 days 912,500 Clothing for 200,000 persons, at 3/. each person . . . 600,000 Furniture for 60,000 families, at 5/. each 300,000 Income from trade and agriculture, for 60,000 fami- lies, at 20/. each 1,200,000 Sundries not included in the foregoing, at 5/. each family 300,000 Loss by waste, fire, bad seasons, &c 150,000 Total annually created £6,893,332 'Mil 64 NOVA SCOTIA. VALUE OF aiOVEABLE PROPERTY. £. Horses, 14,000 at 10/. each 1 40,000 Horned cattle, 120,000 at 5/. each 500,000 Sheep, 200,000 at 1/. each >00,000 Swine, 100,000 at 1/. ■wh 100,000 Poultry, &c 100 f!'M) Clothing, personal, 200,000, at 10/. each i;,000,()00 Furniture and domestic utensils for CO,UOO fiAiviilies, at 20/. each I,ivt0,000 Sliips, timber, merchandize, machiiufrv and cash ..10,000,000 Total, nvovcable proijcrty £14,2*0,000 VALUE OF IMMOVEABLE PROl'EliTV. Land, ! . '$00,000 cultivated acres, at 4/. per acre . . . .5,200,000 Good :,ind, iV, 000,000 unculti^ted acres, at lO.v. per aero „ 2,500,000 Waste Lanil, 2,000,000 acres, at l*. per acre 100,000 Houses, about 60,000 at 20/. each 1,200,000 Govcrninent Buildings, Forts, Churches, &c 1,000,000 Mines, Forests, and Fisheries ;J,000,000 Roads, Canals, Bridges, Wharfs, and Dykes 3.000,000 Total, Immoveable Property ....£15,000,000 Total, Moveable and Immoveable, £20,240,000 Religion. — ^The established Church is Episcopa- lian ; the number of people of different religions at the last census were — Church of England, 28,659 ; Church of Scotland, 37,227; Church of Rome, 20,401 ; Methodists, 9408; Baptists, 19,790; Lutherans, 2968 ; Dissenters from the Established Church, 441 7 ; Ditto of Scotland, 405. Quakers, 158 ; Jews, 3 ; i; EDUCATION. 65 )a- ut \9; II; IS, 7; |3; Universalists, 51 ; Sandimanians, 23 ; Swedenbor- geoins, 3 ; Antinomians, 9 ; Unitarians, 4 ; Doubtful, 313. The foregoing does not include Cape Breton. The established Church is under the management of a Bishop, Archdeacon, and thirty-two clergymen. Of the Church of Scotland there are twelve Ministers. Of the Roman Catholic Church, a Bishop and four- teen Priests. There are nineteen Wesleyan and thirty-six Baptist Missionaries. About 50,000 acres of land have been granted for the support of religion and schools. The Ecclesiasti- cal establishment as supported by the Home Govern- ment, and expense thereof from April 1834 ^.o March 1835— Bishop of Nova Scotia (salary 2,000/.), Arch- deacon (300/.), President of King's College (50/.), Presbyterian Minister (75/.) The different religious communities live in har- mony, but the contrast between the salary of the Bishop and that of the Presbyterian clergyman, viz. 2,000/. and 75/. has given rise to observations and feelings by no means advantageous to the Protestant Church. Education. — The provincial legislature, as also many private individuals *, have made strenuous efforts for promoting the blessings of education. By an act passed in 1811, any settlement consisting of thirty families, raising a sum of not less than 50/. by assess- ment, after the manner of poor rates, are entitled to ' I may be pardoned in mentioning one gentleman in par- ticnlar to wliom the rising youth of the colony are so much indebted. I allnde to the philanthropic W. Bromley, Esq., late of the 23d regiment. NOVA SCOVIA. F f' ^ ' 66 NOVA SCOTIA. 25^. from the treasury of the province for the esta- blishment of a school or schools ; the returns for the last year will be sufficient to quote as an example of the extent of those schools : I also add the money assessed by private individuals, and the aid granted m conformity to the Act. School returns for the year ending 30th November, 1832. County or District. * o 1 3 O h o o 6 55 "o o i No. taught gratis. Money received by the Peoi>le for six months. Money received from the province. Halifax 10437 21 895 34 093 100 Colchester 7703 39 911 107 1027 101 Pictou 13 »■! ' ported to Rochfort. The New England forces lost 101 men, killed by the enemy and other accidental causes, and about thirty, who died from sickness ; while the French were supposed to have lost 300, who were killed within the walls. Not the least singular event connected with this gallant circum- stance was the fact that the plan for the reduction of this regularly-constructed fortress, was drawn np by a lawyer, and executed by a body of colonial husbandmen and merchants; animated indeed by a zeal for the service of their country, but wholly destitute of pro- fessional skill ! During the forty-nine days the siege lasted, the weather was remarkably fine for the season of the year, but the day after the surrender it became foul, and the rain fell incessantly for ten days ; which, as there were 1,500 at that time afflicted with a dysen- tery, must, if it had occurred at an earlier period, have proved fatal to a large portion of the troops. The concurrence of fortunate circumstances did not, as Mr. Haliburton justly remarks, lessen the merit of the man who planned, nor of the people who efilected, the conquest, which exhibited a high spirit of enterprize, and a generous participation in the •var of the mother country. Cape Breton was useful to France : in many respects Louisburg had realized the hopes of those who projected its establishment. Its local connections with the fisheries, whence her naval power began to draw a respectability that threatened to rival that of her enemv, made it a commodious station for their encouragement ; and by dividing the principal stations of the English fisheries It GENERAL HISTORY. 77 at Newfoundland and Canseau, it gave a check to both. Louisburg was the French Dunkirk of Ame- rica, whence privateers were fitted out to infest the coast of the British plantations, and to which prizes were conveyed in safety. In November preceding the capture of this place, the grand French fleet sailed from thence, consisting of three men of war, six Eas*- India ships, thirty-one other ships, nine brigantines, five snows, and two schooners. The French East and West India fleets found a secure harbour there, and the supplies of fish and lumber were carried with convenience from thence to the sugar ''olonies ; besides which. Cape Breton com- manded the entrance into the gulf of St. Lawrence, and consequently the navigation to and from the favourite colony of France. If all these local advan- tages did not accrue, positively, to Great Britain, upon the capture of this island, yet wresting them from the hand of her enemy was almost equal to it. There was also another of great conseqirace, arising to her from the existing state of Nova Scotia. An expedition was projected by the French to recovor the province ; the taking of Cape Breton frustrated the execution of this plan, and gave the English an additional bridle over ♦his half-rcolting country. The news of this conquest being transmitted to Eng- land, General Pepperal and Commodore Warren were preferred to the dignity of Baronets of Great Britain, and congratulatory addresses were prew-nted to the King, upon the success of his Majesty's arms. Reinforcements of men, stores, and provisions having arrived at Louisburg, it was determined, in a council 1 1 ! I| 1 T i ■ 1 \i\ 'ivi I ) (I n ; . i'r 78 CAPK BRETON. of war, to maintain the place, and repair the breaches. Two French East India ships and a South Sea vessel, valued at G()0,00')/., were decoyed into Louisburg, and captured, by hoistini^ the French flaj^ ; and a large French fleet, coming- out for the relief of Louis- burg, narrowly escaped a similar fate, by capturing a vessel bound from Boston to London, with the Go- vernor of New \ork on board, who was proceeding to England with the joyful intelligence of the con- quest. The acquisition by the British of the island of St. John, now called Prince Edward, in honour of the lamented and universally beloved Duke of Kent, fol- lowed the capture of Louisburg. At the peace of Aix la Chapelle in 1741), Cape Breton was ret-lored to France in return for Madras, which had licen cap- tured by the brave Labourdouuais with a force from Pondicherry, and remained in the possession of France, until the American campaign of 1750, when liOrd Loudon, at the annual military council held at Boston, determined on endeavouring to effect the capture of Jjouisburg from the French. Halifax in Nova Scotia was fixed on for the rendezvous of the British land and sea forces. iVdmiral Holborne ar- rived at Chebucto Harbour in tlxC beginning of July, with a powerful squadi-on, and .5,000 British troops, under the command of \'icount Howe, where he was soon after joined by Lord Loudon, with a body of 6,000 men from Ncu- York\ At this time there wen ia Loui'-^bi' ?; u,('' ') regular troops, 0,000 natives, ' I am again iadelicid to Mr. Ualiburton Ibr details. i^V GENERAL HISTORY. 79 and 1,300 Indians, with seventeen ships of the line, and three frigates, moored in the harhour ; the place was well supplied with unimunition, provisions, and every kind of military stores, and the enemy wished for nothing more than an attack, which it was pro- bable would terminate in the disgrace of the assailants, and ruin the affairs of the British in America. The season was now too far advanced for the safety of the enterprise, and it was resolved to defer it to the ensuing spring. Admiral Holborne, no longer em- barrassed with the cai'e of transports, sailed for Louis- burg, with fifteen ships of the line, four frigates, and a fire-ship, for the purpose of reconnoitring the enemy. On the :20th of August he appeared before the hai'bour, and saw the French Admiral make the signal to unmoor, but being greatly inferior in strength to the enemy, he did not choose to risk an engage- ment, and, therefore,, returned to Halifax. About the middle of Septendier, having received a rein- forcement of four 5-hi])s of the line, he again sailed to Louisburg, with an intention to draw the enemy to a battle. La Motte, however, was too prudent to hazard an engagement, the loss of whivli must have exposed all the French colonies to the attacks of the English. Before the arrival of the reinforcement, the British fieet at Halifax consisted of the following sliips : — Newark, 700 men, JJO guns ; Invincible, 700 men, 74 guns ; Grai'ton, 590 men, (J!{ guns ; Terrible, (i'M men, 74 guns ; North- umberland, 520 men, (!({ guns ; Captain, oJiO men, Gii guns; Bedford, 480 men, 111 guns ; Ortord, 520 men, Oil guns ; Nas- sau, 480 men, G4guns; Sunderland, 400 men, (»4guns; De- I tS! ill:! M :f|„i f - 1 f 1;M 80 CAPE BRETON. , 1 J !( !'■! j i'i fiance, 400 men, G4 guns ; Tilbury, 400 men, (54 guns j Kingston, 400 men, (JO guns ; Windsor, 350 men, 54 guns ; Suthcrlund, 30({ men, 50 guns; Winchelsea, ICO men, 24 guns; Ferrit Sloop, 120 men, 10 guns ; Success, 150 men, 22 guns; Port Malion, 150 men, 22 guns; Nightingale, 150 men, 22 guns; Kennington, 150 men, 20 guns; Elphingliam, 150 men, 20 guns; Furnace boom, 100 men, IG guns; Ditto, 100 men, IG guns; Vulture sloop, 100 men, 14 guns; Hunter, 100 men, 14 guns; Speedwell, 90 men, 12 guns ; Hawke, 100 men, 12 guns; Gibraltar's Prize, 80 men, 12 guns ; Jamaica, 100 men, 14 guns; Lightning, fireship, 50 men. Total, 10,20C men, 1,350 guns. The squadron continued cruizing before the harbour of Louisburg until the 2oth, when they were over- taken by a terrible storm ; in twelve hours they were driven within two miles of the breakers, on the coast of Jape Breton, when the wind providentially shifted, anc saved the whole squadron from inevitable de- struction, except one which was lost on the rocks, and about half of whose crew perished. Eleven ships were dismasted, and others threw their guns over- board, and the whole returned to England in a shat- tered condition. The success of the French this year, in consequence of the absence of Lord Loudon, at Halifax, left the British North i^merican colonies in a gloomy state. The former had obtained full possession of Lakes Champlain and George, acquired the dominion of those other lakes which connect the St. Lawrence with the waters of the Mississippi, and also the un- disturbed possession of all the country west of the ADeghany mountains. But the appointment of Mr. Pitt, during the autumn, to the Premiership of the new partil after! coloij send land, raise | bitani The \\ May; at 111 GKNERAL HISTORY. 81 new administration, gave cheering hopes to all parties, both at home and in America. Immediately after taking office he wrote a circular letter to all the colonies, and assured them of his determination to send out a large force to co-operate, by sea and by land, against the French, and railed upon them to raise as large bodies of men as the number of inha- bitants in their resj)ective governments would permit. The provincials were ready to take the field early in May ; previously to which Admiral Boscawen arrived at Halifax with a formidable fleet, and a powerful army under General Amherst. The whole armament, consisting of 151 sail, and 14,000 men, took their departure from Nova Scotia on the 28ih of May, and on the second of June, 1758, anchored in the Bay of Gabarus, about seven miles to the westward of Louis- burg, whose garrison, commanded by Chevalier Drucor, consisted of 2,500 regular troops, 300 mili- tia, formed of the inhabitants, and who, towards the end of the siege, were reinforced by 350 Canadians and Indians. The harbour was secured bjCsix ships of the line and five frigates, (the Prudent, Entrepre- nant, each seventy-four ; the Capricieux, Celebrc, and Bienfaisant, of sixty-four guns ; the Apollo, of fifty ; the Chevre, Biche, Fidele, Diana, and Echo, frigates,) three of which they sunk across the entrance, in order to render it inaccessible to the English ship- ping. Six days elapsed before the troops could be disembarked, on account of the heavv surf which broke with prodigious violence on the whole shore ; but on the seventh, the agitation of the water having ])artly subsided, the troops were distributed in three NOVA SCOTIA. G 1 I .« \] I* ' 83 CAPE TRETON. divisions, and ordered to effect a landiiif^. The right and centre, under the command of Governor Law- rence and riencral Whitmore, received instructions to make a show of hmding, to distract the : .u ,'ition of the enemy, while the real attem])t was auide in another quarter by General Wolfe. The French re- served their fire until the boats had nearly reached the shore, when they opened a tremendous discharsrr^ of cannon and musquetry, which, aided by the si overset and sunk many of the boats. The men, e. couraged in all their difficulties by the example, fpirit, and conduct of their gallant commanders, gained the beach at the Creek of Cormoran, and compelled the enemy to retire to the town. As soon as the stores and artillery were landed, which was not effected without great difficulty, General Wolfe was detached, with two thousand men, to seize a post occupied by the enemy, at the Light-house l*uint, from which the ships in the harbour, and for- tifications in the town, might be greatly annoyed. On his .ij)|)roach it wa?* abandoned, and several very .-Vroim- batteries were erected there. The fire from this pifice, by the 25th, completely silenced the island battery, which was immediately o])posed to it. In the interim, the besieged made several sallies, with very little effect, while the ai)proaches to the town were conducted with resolute but cautious vigour. The Bizarre and the Comet escaped the vigilance of the squadron before the commencement of th<^ -iiege, and the Echo attempted to follow their example, but was captured soon after she left the harbour. On the 21st of July one of the largest of GKNKUAL niSTOUV. «3 the French slii|i > blew up with an awful explosion, which accident huvinj^ communicated the fire to two others, they were both consumed in u short time to the water's edge. Admiral lioscawen now sent (iOO men in 1)oats into the harbour to make an attempt on two ships of the line, which still remained in the basin — the Prudent, a seventy-four gun ship, and rhe Bienfaisunt, of sixty-four guns. The forn\er having been run aground, was destroyed, and th tter was towed past the batteries in triumph. \ ' "ncon- siderablc loss of seven men killed, and << >n -m led. This gallant exploit placed the Englisi on i)lete possession of the harbour, and several bruacheb being made practicable in the works, the fortress was no longer deemed defensible, and the governor oft'ered to capitulate. The terms proposed by him were re- fused, and it was required that the garrison should surrender prisoners of war, or sustain an assault by sea and land. These humiliating conditions, thou^•h at first rejected, were afterwards agreed to, and on the 26th of July, 1758, the Chevalier Drucor sigued the articles of capitulation. Thus, at the expense of about 400 men, killed and wounded, the English obtained possession of the im- portant island of Cape Breton, and the strong town of Louisburg, in which the victors found 231 pieces of cannon, with eighteen mortars, and a considerable quantity of stores and ammunition. The merchants and inhabitants were sent to France in English bot- toms, but the garrison, together with the sea officers, marines, and mariners, amounting in all to 5,G37 men, were transported to England. The loss of G 2 111 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ % /. ^ :/, 1.0 I.I 1.25 1: 1^ iliio 1.8 M. IIIL6 W ^ ^J^ / 0^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 tf 4l^ #p ■^ ^ \ iV ^ ^ 84 CAPE BRETON. Louisburg was the more severely felt by the French king as it had been attended with the destruction of so many line of battle ships and frigates. The par- ticulars of this transaction were immediately carried to England, by a vessel despatched for that purpose, by Captain Amherst (brother to the Commander-in- Chief), who was also entrusted with eleven pair of colours. These were, by his Majesty's orders, car- ried in joyful parade, escorted by detachments of horse and foot guards, with kettle drums and trum- pets, from the palace of Kensington to St. Paul's Cathedral, where they were deposited as trophies, under a discharge of cannon and other expressions of triumph and exultation. Indeed the public re- joicings for the conquest of Louisburg were diffused through every part of the British empire — congra- tulations were sent to his Majesty from various parts of the empire, and it may be said, to have in- directly led to the subsequent acquisition of Canada. The British Government fearing Louisburg might again fall into the hands of the French, dismantled the fortifications, which have ever since remained in ruins ; the island was, however, neglected by Eng- land, and it was only after the American revolution, when several American loyalists settled in the colony, that it was again brought into notice, separated from the government of Nova Scotia, and erected into a distinct colony, when Sydney, its present capital, was founded. Immigration from the Highlands of Scotland commenced in 1800, and added much to its population, which has been further increased by their relatives following them of late years. In 1820. S r »r GENERAL HISTORY. 85 .ng- Cape Breton was annexed as a county to Nova Scotia, with the privilege of sending two members to the House of Assembly at Halifax. This is strongly protested against by the colonists of the island, who have petitioned his Majesty on the sub- ject, and been thus prudently replied to, by Mr. Stanley, while Colonial Secretary : — " I have laid before the King the petition which has been sent home, and have received his Majesty's commands to inti- mate, that, with every desire to pay the earliest attention to the reasonable representation of any petition of his Majesty's subjects, the question is considered to be of far too grave a character to be dealt with otherwise than in the most formal manner. ** It would be proper, therefore, that the petitioners should be informed that, with a view to bring forward the claim which they have advanced in the most effectual and correct mode, their petition should be drawn up and addressed to his Majesty in Council, and that they should be apprised that the case will be heard by counsel. " E. G. STANLEY." " To the Governor of Nova Scotia." The first question which will naturally arise in the mind of the mere economist, who looks to the pounds, shillings, and pence of the moment, after perusing the foregoing accounts, of the gallant efforts made for the acquisition of Cape Breton lole is, whether it be worth the money spent in its acquisition ? to this question the statesman will add, whether it is worth the blood spilt in the capture ? Both these questions may be satisfactorily answered in the affirmative : its inex- haustible mines of coal and iron, lying close to the surface, and contiguous to each other — to say no- ', (i ! n III i f (-ft M 86 CAPE BRETON. thing of the valuable fisheries on its coasts — the fine timber in its forests — and the fertile land throughout the territory, sufficiently answer the question of the economist : the statesman need only glance for a second at its geographical position, commanding the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and adjacent seas, to find a prompt and satisfactory reply to his query, should it ever be put by a short-sighted and anti-maritime, and I will add, unnational ministry. CHAPTER II. PHYSICAL ASPECT — CHIEF TOWNS— GEOLOGY — MINERALOGY — CLIMATE — POPULATION — GOVERNMENT — COMMERCE — STAPLE PRODUCTS, &C. Cape Breton is of a shape nearly triangular, its shores indented with many fine deep havens, broken with innumerable coves and islets, and almost sepa- rated into two mds ' by the great inlet of the sea, termed Bras d , which ramifies in the most singu- lar and romantic manner throughout the isle. These natural divisions of Cape Breton are also in striking * The isthmus of St. Peter, which prevents the Bras d'Or eniirely separating Cape Breton into two parts, is not more than 3,000 feet, and it has been proposed to cut a canal to join the two seas, the expense of which would not be more than 17.000/. .»':::*i«ii*Ui^ . PHYSICAL ASPECT. 87 contrast, the one to the north heing high, bold, and steep, that to the south low, intersected by water, diversified with moderate elevations, and gradually rising from the interior shore of the Bras d'Or until it presents abrupt cliffs towards the ocean. In this latter division the highest land does not exceed 800 feet, but the highlands in the north division are are higher, bolder, and more continuous ; Smokey Cape, exceeding 1,800 feet in altitude above the level of the sea. The Bras d'Or would appear to have been an irruption of the ocean, caused by some earthquake, or convulsion, admitting the water within the usual boundary of the coast. Its entrance is on the east side of the island facing Newfoundland, and divided into two passages by Boulardie Island. The south passage, called Little Bras d'Or, is about twenty- three miles long, and from a quarter to three miles wide, but rendered unnavigable for large ves- sels by a bar at its mouth. The north passage. Great Bras d'Or, is twenty-five miles long, two or three wide, with a free navigation, and above sixty fathoms soundings. The Bras d'Or itself is the union of these two branches, which form the great lake in the centre of the island, with several fine bavs, where the timber ships for England usually load, at a distance of forty miles from the main ocean. The length of this noble sea-water lake is about fifty miles, its greatest width twenty, with a depth vary- ing from twelve to sixty fathoms, everywhere se- curely navigable, and by reason of its numerous bays and inlets aflibrding the benefit of inland navigation to almost every farm in the country. Several fresh- •• I I, \ '^ M 88 CAPE BRETOV, water lakes exist in different places, the largest are Lake Marguerite, in the north division, which is about forty miles in circumference ; the Grand River and Mire lakes in the south, the latter, together with its river intersecting the island on its south- east coast for thirty miles, in the rear of the site of the ancient fortress of Louisburg. Sydney, the capital of Cape Breton, in latitude 46° 1 8', longitude 60° 3', is the only military post in the island, and is beautifully situated, a few miles south of the entrance of Bras d'Or, upon a narrow, but somewhat elevated tongue of land, about one mile in length and half that space in breadth, its line of direction north and south, nearly eleven miles from the mouth of Spanish River. On the east side of the small promontory is a basin three miles in cir- cumference, while the main channel runs on the west side, and then opens a fine harbour, affording a secure anchorage for large frigates. The operations of the Mining Company are improving Sydney, which it is asserted has suffered materially from the annexion of the island to Nova Scotia. From Sydney to Louisburg the shore presents abrupt cliffs, low beaches, bays, rivers, and a few islands *. Louisburg Harbour, in 45° 54' north lati- 1 Scatari Island, for which vessels bound from England to our possessions in North America, usually sha])e their course, lies a few miles from Mire Bay, on the south-east coast of Cape Breton. A light.house should for mere humanity sake be erected on this island, and I would entreat the attention of the patriotic brethren of the Trinity House, to the following facts obtained from a Halifax paper: — *' If we look to the comparative loss of life and property in tu^ a isl<| wl mil in of PHYSICAL ASPECT. 89 tude, 59° 52' west longitude ; has an entrance about a quarter of a mile wide between some small rocky islet, with a blind passage near the west point, on which Louisburg stood. The basin within, three miles long by one wide, is one of the finest harbours in the world, with good watering places. The ruins of the once formidable batteries, with wide broken gaps (as blown open by gunpowder), present a me- lancholy picture of past energy. The strong and capacious magazines, once the deposit of immense quantities of munitions of war, are still nearly entire, but hidden by the accumulation of earth and turf, and now afford a commodious shelter for flocks of peaceful sheep, who feed around the burial-ground. ) I these places, we shall not find that on Scatari and St. Paul's to be trifling. The loss at the Isle of Sable, in the aggregate, during twenty-one years from 180C to 1827 was about thirty- five vessels — two indeed of those were frijjates, besides several ships and brigs ; but great part of them schooners and fishing vessels. In the vicinity of St. Paul's and Scatari, there have been in 1832, three ships, one barque, eight brigs, and several small vessels, in all about 3,000 wrecked tons ; and in 1833, four ships, four brigs and, two schooners, near 2,800 tons, and containing upwards of 600 souls. How many more have suf- fered in these places, and at the Isle of Sable, who can tell ? Here is a summary of the known loss in two years ; but if the estimate be correct that the loss of shipping in the vicinity of St Paul's and Scatari, has been for the last twenty years about 2,000 tons per annum, how awfully great must be the loss from first to last ; as in such case in twenty years about 40,000 tons of shipping must have been wrecked in these two places, which is a far greater loss than at the Isle of Sable in the same given period.'" A recent calculation estimates the loss of life on these rocks during the past years at upwards of 1000 ! ■^ ] i \ ' M ^f 90 CAPE BRETON. where the remains of many a gallant Frenchman and patriotic Briton are deposited ; while beneath the clear cold wave may be seen the vast sunken ships of war, whose very bulk indicates the power enjoyed by the Gallic nation, ere England became mistress of her colonies on the shores of the western Atlantic. Desolation now sits with a ghastly smile around the once formidable bastions — all is silent except the loud reverberating ocean, as it rolls its tremendous surges along the rocky beach, or the bleating of the scattered sheep, as, with tinkUng bells, they return in the dusky solitude of eve, to their singular folds ; — while the descendant of some heroic Gaul, whose ancestors fought and bled in endeavouring to prevent the noble fortress of his sovereign being laid prostrate before the prowess of mightier Albion, may be observed wandering along these time-honoured ruins, and mentally exclaiming in the language of the Bard of Erin : — On Louisburg's heights where the fisherman strays, When the clear cold eve 's declining, He sees the war ships of other days In the wave, beneath' him, shining; Thus shall memory often in dreams sublime, Catch a glimpse of the days that are over ; And sighing look back through the vista of time, For the long faded glories they cover K ' * Mr. M'Gregor, who recently visited the spot, says, that a few fishermen's huts form a melancholy contrast to the superb edifices, regular fortifications, naval grandeur, military pomp, and commercial activity, of which Louisburg was once the splendid theatre. The inhabitants along the coast are chiefly Acadian-French fishermen, and it is frequented principally by Jersey and Guernsey people. PHYSICAL ASPECT. 91 A naked and rocky bhore marks the line from Louisburg to St. Peter's on the south-west coast. From St. Peter's Bay to Lennox Passage, on the east side of Madame Island, are broken indented shores, innumerable coves, harbours, and islands. Madame Island, lying near the south entrance of the Gut of Canseau, is about sixteen miles long, and from six to eight broad. The Gut of Canseau has been before described (see Nova Scotic.) ; the abrupt highlands on either shore of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton, indicate the appearance of an immense fissure, caused by tremendous volcanic eruption. The north-west coast of Cape Breton, from the Gut of Canseau to Port Hood, or Just-au-Corps Harbour, a distance of eighteen miles, is well shel- tered and thickly inhabited ; the houses and farms of the inhabitants may be observed from the sea, through detached openings in the forest, ascending to the tops of the hills and mountains. From Cape Mabau, an abrupt and lofty headland, six miles from Port Hood, to Marguerite, the coast assumes the form of a bold mountainous amphitheatre, and is populously settled. An iron-bound and precipitous coast, dreadful to the shipw recked mariner, extends from Chetticamp, seventeen iiiles northward of Mar- guerite, to Cape North, the most easterly point of Breton Isle. Aspe, and several other bays, line the coast, down to Cape Enfume (smoky), the highest land in the island. The coast then trends rapidly to the south- ward and eastward for twenty miles, to St. Anne's Bay, which is ten miles deep, to where it becomes i 92 CAPE BRETON. '! U very narrow, and then again expands into a capa- cious haven eight miles in length, from one to three in breadth, secured by high lands from all winds, and extremely beautiful from its numerous coves and creeks, and the bold, yet fertile scenery, which sur- rounds it. Off Cape North is situate the dangerous isle, or rather rock, termed St. Paul, about ten miles distant from Cape Breton, and in a direct line with Cape Ray in Newfoundland, thus endangering the navigation of the principal entrance to the gulf of St. Lawrence. St. Paul's is about a mile in length, three-quarters in breadth, and appears on three high hills; on the highest of which, 229 feet above the sea, a light-house has at length been recently erected. The water is deep close to the rocks, which are strewed with bleaching human bones and other melancholy indications of the necessity, that has long existed, for pointing out to the midnight mariner this too often fatal spot. The foregoing account, which I have been induced to give rather minutely, on account of the important position of Cape Breton, will convey to the intelli- gent reader a sufficient idea of the island. I now proceed to notice its — Geology. — The extensive coal, iron, and other mines in Cape Breton will justify my offering some lengthened details under this head*. The island can enumerate from sandstone downwards the whole of the rocks which constitute the transition and primitive formations. ' The details are derived from returns furnished to Mr. Haliburton. witl thel Petl old! porj of J,- OKOLOOY. 93 Primitive and Transition Classes. — Ik>ginning with the high hiiul which extends from the head of the eastern arm of the great lake, nearly to St. Peter's, a great variety of rocks occur : granite, the oldest of the primitive class, occupies a considerable portion. It is generally of a very small grain, and of a grey or red colour, the former being the most prevalent. It passes insensibly into sienite or green- stone, presenting a steep and broken clifi' to the edge of the lake, and rising in abruj)t precipices from the numerous deep ravines which intersect this part of the island. The character and appearance of this rock (green- stone) are greatly diversified. In some places it passes imperceptibly into a claystone porphyry, of a dull green colour ; in others, its structure is slaty, and the crystals scarcely discernible. Clay-slute has only been noticed in one instance, namelv, on the south shore of the harbour of Arichat, where it occurs, stratified in vertical beds, traversed by numerous small veins of quartz and calcareous spar. Its superficial extent is very inconsiderable, and it appears to be surrounded with greywacke, which occupies nearly the whole of the Isle of Madame. There is probably no place of equal ex- tent that can afford such numerous specimens of grevwacke as this small island; it may be seen passing from clay slate, through an endless variety of gradations, into old red sandstone. Between great and little Arichat, immense weather-beaten masses of a very coarse kind, protrude above the surface, which is consequently nigged and barren ; |: . {lf I 94 CAPK URETON. i/j proceeding hence to Descous. it ijrnclunlly becomes more conipiift and pninuliir, »ind it mny be seen in its last j«taj;e ut that place, where it passes into old red sandstone. Greywttcke and grcywacke-shte also occupy an extensive tract, between the Red Islands and St. Peter's, stretching out towards the head of the Grand River in an easterly direction. Associated with this formation, there are several beds of tran- sition limestone, both in the Isle of Madame and opposite the Red Islands; at the latter place a deposit of shell limestone, ap])arently unstratified, may be seen almost in immediate contact with several ver- tical beds of a reddish brown limestone, which is translucent on the edges. Skconuary Class. — Proceeding geologically up- wards, the next formation is the old red sandstone, which reposes upon the greywacke, and is intimately connected with it. From the great entrance of the Bras d'Or Lake, it ranges in a south-eastern direc- tion across the island of Bouladerie, passing to the southward of the town of Sydney, and underlying the carboniferous limestone, which forms the south- west boundary of the Sydney coal field '. ' The remark made by Conybeare on the agricultural cha- racter of this rock, is strikingly verified in the preceding localities ; for instance, in Lennox Passage, where the sand- stone beds exclusively prevail, the soil is sandy and barren, aftbrding support only for mosses, ferns, and brushwood ; but where the sandstone alternates with argillaceous beds, the soil is, on the contrary, fertile and productive, as the luxuriant groves of hard wood on the Island of Bouladerie bear ample evidence. OKOLOOr. 95 The carboniferous limestone w^ ich rests upon the old red sandstone, is n rock of the j^reatest impor- tance, for it determines the boundaries and extent of the coal fields which it surrounds, constituting the basin or trough in which the coal veins, and strata associated with them, arc deposited. Thk Eastkkn Coal Distuict of Capk Brkton. — Commences on the nortliern head of Mire Bay on the cast coast and continues to the great entrance of the Bras d'Or Lakes, being in length thirty-five miles, and averaging five miles in width, and deduct- ing the harbours, bays, and numerous indentations in the coast, comprises one hundred and twenty square miles of land containing workable veins of coal ! The carboniferous limestone which forms th base of the Sydney coal field, may be traced from Cape Dauphin, crossing the Island of Bouladerie in a continuous line to the town of Sydney, the course being about south-south-east, and dipping to the north-east. If a line be drawn from Scatari Isle to Sydney, and thence to Cape Dauphin, it will form the south-west boundary of the Sydney coal field : the general dip of the veins being towards the north-east, we cannot therefore determine their boundary in that direction. Judging from the comparative inclination of the highest and lowest strata on the western shore of Spanish River, where there is a cliff three miles in length, crossing the beds in the direction of their dip. we should suppose that the lower veins crop out in the sea ten or twelve miles from the shore. The high cliffs which form an extended line of mineral precipices along the whole coast, exhibit very satis- ni {I i :1 I s 96 CAPE BRETON. factory and interesting sections of the strata, from the shale and grit beds overlying the limestone to the highest veins of coal. In these cliffs, fourteen veins of bituminous coal of excellent quality, none of which are under three feet in thickness, have been observed. Richard Smith, Esq. details a singular fact connected with these coal mines: in his evidence before Parliament last year respecting accidents in mines, he says : — ' When we first struck the coal at the depth of about 1 80 feet, it was highly charged with water ; the water flew out in all directions with considerable violence ; it produced a kind of mineral fermentation immediately. The outburst of the coal crossed the large river which passed near the coal-pit. We were not exactly aware of the precise outcrop, on account of a strong clay paste eight or ten yards thick. It is rather difficult to find the outburst of coal, when clay paste is thickly spread over a country. At the river the water boiled similarly to that of a steam engine boiler, with the same kind of rapidity ; so that on putting flame to it on a calm day, it would spread over the river, like what is commonly termed setting the Thames on fire ; it often reminded me of the saying. It is very common for the females, the workmen's wives and daughters, to go down to the river with the washing they have to perform for their families. After digging a hole in the side of the river, about ten or twelve inches deep, they would fill it with pebble stones, and then put a candle to it ; by this means they had plenty of boil- ing water without further trouble, or the expense of i £ t c c ,■! GEOLOGY. 97 fiiel. It would burn for weeks and months unless put out. I mention this to show how highly charged the coal was with gas. What I am now going to describe, may be worth a little attention. There was no extraordinary boiling of water, or rising of gas, before we cut the coal at the bottom of the pit, more than is usually discernible in a common pond of stagnant water, when a long stick is forced into the mud. As soon as the coal was struck at the depth of 180 feet, it appeared to throw the ^^hole mine into a state of regular mineral fermentation. The gas roared as the miner struck the coal with his pick ; it would often go off like the report of a pistol, and at times I have seen it burst pieces of coal oflF the solid wall, so that it could not be a *rery lightly charged mine under such circumstances. The noise which the gas and water made in issuing from the coal was like a hundred thousand snakes hissing at each other." The total thickness of the strata constituting the coal measures on the west side of the harbour of Lingan amounts to 1,740 feet ; that of the millstone grits and shale, probably 1,200. The thickness of the carboniferous limestofie has not yet been ascer- tained. Western Coal District. — This includes the coal held on the River Inhabitants, and those of Port Hood and Mabou. The coal fields of Port Hood and Mabou are only known by report. New Red Sandstone. — ^The last, but by no means the least important of the regular consolidated for- mations which occur in this island, is the new red NOVA SCOTIA. H 98 CAPK BRETON. I i sandstone, which is undoubtedly the most extensive deposit we have to notice. It commences beyond the outcrop of the old red sandstone, and is seen re- posing in horizontal beds almost immediately upon the basset edges of the highly inclined strata of that rock in the great entrance to the lakes, about ten miles south-west of Cape Dauphin ; covering an ex- tensive area, it would be impossible to describe its different characters ; in general, it is of a deep red colour, and very coarse description, containing im- mense beds of conglomerate. In a commercial point of view, the new red sand- stone ranks next in importance to the coal fields of the island, for it contains immense deposits of gyp- sum, of a very superior quality for agricultural pur- poses, and is now becoming an article of considerable traffic with the United States, who know how to ap- preciate its value. It constitutes a cliff several miles in extent, and in some places thirty feet in height. The gypsum in the lower part of the cliff is suffi- ciently compact for architectural purposes, and that near the surface appears well adapted for potters' moulds, stucco, flooring, &c. It is very conveniently situated for export, as vessels of great burthen may approach close to the cliff. It also occurs abundantly in various other places. The numerous salt springs which also have their source in the new red sandstone, will be found well worth the attention of capitalists. Situated so near to the veins of coal, so necessary in the manufacture of salt, and in the very heart of the best fisheries of North America, these promise faiv to become, at a GEOLOGY. 99 future day, a productive source of wealth to the pro- prietors, and of incalculable benefit to the fisheries. St. Paul's Island, situated fifteen miles north-east of Cape North, appears to be quite unconnected in a geological sense with the strata constituting the northern part of Cape Breton, and would seem to have been originally formed by a submarine volcano. The Basalt found on it is of a black colour, with a greenish shade, and apparently contains a large pro- portion of oxide of iron. This island rises like an immense cone from the bottom of the ocean, the sloping sides becoming nearly vertical at the sm'face of the water, and forming an abrupt cliff. The depth of water is very great close to the shore, and, at only three miles distance from the northern ex- tremity, a line of 140 fathoms did not reach the bottom. Connected with the geology of the country is its metallic minerals ; copper, iron, and lead are found in great variety, the two former most abun- dant ; the iron ore is extremely rich, and with the contiguous coal, it may be supposed that the small and apparently insignificant island of Cape Breton will become at no distant day the England of the Western Hemisphere. The soil is light, on a sandstone rock, thickly covered with huge boulders of granite, in many places alluvial, presenting extensive tracts of land fit for the cultivation of any crops. On the north- west coast, in the valleys and along the banks of the small rivers a deep rich soil prevails. There is id, which, as the good mos sy bog H 2 ml (t H I' I m (•j^iij 100 CAPE BRETON. country becomes cleared and peopled, will yield excellent crops. Climate. — Cape Breton in this respect resembles much its neighbouring peninsula, with perhaps more moisture from its insular position. The fog, which is swept along the shores of Nova Scotia by the south-west wind, and along the south-east coast of Cape Breton, as far as Scatari, is then blown off to sea : it never extends far inland, being dissipated by the reflected heat. The climate is exceedingly healthy, and the watei- excellent ; — two things of paramount value to the settler. The seasons may be thus indicated : — in June the blossoms of the indigenous shrubs appear ; apple trees are in full bloom in the beginning of July, when strawberries are in perfection ; hay is made in July and August ; in the latter month raspberries and oats ripen, as do also currants and gooseberries, wheat in September, and apples and plums hang on the trees until the approach of winter in October and November. Animal Kingdom. — The moose and cariboo, as described in the previous chapters, are tjie principal animals; the former now comparatively scarce, owing to an indiscriminate massacre which took place for the sake of the hides, soon after the English settled in the country. So murderous was the destruction of this fine animal, that hundreds of carcasses were left scattered along the shore from St. Ann's to Cape North ; the stench from which was so great, as to be wafted from the shore to vessels at a con- siderable distance at sea. ANIMAL REMAINS — POPULATION. 101 Remains o^ vast animals are found, which it would appear formerly ranged in the vicinity of the Bras d'Or. Enormous bones, resembling thigh bones, six feet in length, are reported to have been seen lying at the bottom of the lake. In the bed of the Waga- matcook, shortly after the settlement on that river, an extraordinary skull was discovered. One of the teeth was taken to Sydney, which resembled, in general appearance, the molares of the human jaw : its greatest measure was about eight inches ; but whether that length had been transversely or longi- tudinally situated in the jaw, could not be deter- mined by those who had not seen the skull from which it had been taken. The thickness from the root to the crown of the tooth was four inches, and the width across the crown about the same. There were ten processes upon the crown ; five on either side^. The Indians have a story, that a huge ani- mal once raised its head out of the water of the Middle Barrasoi of Aspy Bay, near Cape North, and so terrified them, that it was long before any would venture thither again. Population. — We have no accurate census of the island ; the number of mouths are estimated at • 1 give this statement on the authority of Mr. Haliburton ; but a Nova Scotia newspaper of the present year has the fol- lowing more extraordinary statement. — " The tooth of an extinct species of animal has been recently found at Cape Breton2 771 877 531 628 Planks feet 119 4335 37016 2000 4000 393 Pork barrels 10 176 51 43 164 100 Potatoes bushels 12C13 4107 6060 33100 35808 6710 Spars No. 28 198 493 77 26 140 Sheep . No. 767 631 781 4.55 543 706 Shingles . mds.* ir)4 218 235 211 285 172 Smoked herrings barrels 201 504 338 100 — — Hardwood pieces 4007 1898 1397 135 040 874 Timber, pine pieces 3284 3074 — 1789 896 969 • Mds. signifies 1000 feet. I ■>■! yil ' ii 'm Ii 'ikm ■ 104 CD NN CO Pi < >^ I O H pq o o H P^ o Pu Q CAPE BRETON. a cccs»>.»oo laifw 1 — . u.| M tnOS^|(^C^|l-le^ll^>l wrt CO W CO <, I-* PI ^ 1 is , IMOOC>IN»>. ■*«(» lO — 1 en ira -< lO — ifs 1 00 « •.fi 1 Ml Tt< 1 a »<.woeojj lOOM Iw wl o — ifSCO !>. ■g H eo 't* CO o d n^^Oit^'O toff'it- |C4
    o a S f lO Tfi 00 (M 1 O «0 1 ^ S 1— t o 5 lO 4 OOrti^^Csi soift O 1 ^ M I/? 00 1.0 -t" M 00 !0 T .e^eo loco |n to is o M OS -< O IM H C^ ■<*• t-i , — t-.«e<3c<5 |oc» |e< ^^ c -< — 1 «eo 1 c» iz; U5 ira B tot^ioioeo l^io;© |^^ o tO'<« 1 m ooocswo oocoos [a ) o> S eO'^fNifSM— "5 T h eo o rt -< 00 M to 3 H ec « lO M o CO . »^U5t(< •>>■<»< I040N It" 5 N o -1 1 «o O 1 in ^ ^ «> i-< t^ 1" ^ c>e>itaoo-«ooooi5vioo r> c ^^lO^^^OOCOiO cc 04 (3 e^ ui 1-1 ■v w? J3 rn to r S sh vessels ... ign vessels... rt g > V " J? *> 9 S . » ited Kingdom ernsey and Jer itish West Indi itish North Am rom "1 British y rope J Foreign ited"» British v ites. J Foreign reign Colonies] n America, j izil. British ve BrI mil at ard flxl del tis] tei Ci Y( ev pe th fir of ni P< tl I GENERAL MINING ASSOCIATION. The trade in coal ipidly 105 at Cape increasing Breton, as also at the port of Pictou : the quantity mined at Pictou in 1832 was 12,020 chaldrons, and at Cape Breton mine 30,840 chaldrons. The mines arc leased to the General Mining Association at a fixed rent of 3,000/. per annum. The following description of a new source of employment for Bri- tish industry and capital will doubtless prove in- teresting. The General Mining Association, as tenants of the Crown, and of his late Royal Highness the Duke of York, are lessees of all the mines and minerals of every description in the province of Nova Scotia Pro- per, and in the island and county of Cape Breton. The operations of the Association commenced there in the year 1827, and have hitherto been con- fined to the working of coal mines, and the discovery of iron ore. The coal mines opened and at work are three in number — the Albion, the Sydney, and the Bridge- port mines. The Albion mines are situated on the banks of the East River, in the district of Pictou S or Poictou, ^ Pictou Exports, ending 5th January. Coke Beef and Pork Boards and Planks . Butter Masts and Spars Meal Oxen Staves / Hardwood \ Ditto Ditto, Pine and Spruce Ditto ditto Timber 1833. 1834. chaldrons 100 753 barrels 649 1008 M. feet 1219 1619 tirkins 914 1318 No. 498 445 barrels 1128 1322 . No. 129 134 M. 148 137 pieces 5918 5543 tons 2743 1471 pieces 7396 6982 tons 6912 4370 I London; Custom House, 2'Jth October, 1834. 1 i il , 1 1 ■' 'Hi 1 M n HI 1 i lOfi CAPE nUETON. and distant about eight miles and a half from the town of that name, a port of safe and easy access on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. A light-house has lately been erected on the coast, near Pictou. The East River is only navigable for burthensome craft to within six miles of the Albion mines ; so that vessels arriving for coal receive their cargoes from barges, which load at the mines, and are towed down to the deep water by one of the steamers l)elonging to the Association. A rail-road, now in progress, will, when completed, obviate this incon- venience, as well as any breakage which the coal might sustain by transhipment, and will at the same time materially reduce the cost of shipping it. The strata are similar in their formation to those of the Staffordshire coal fields, and, like the latter, produce a coal which, good and serviceable as it ia for household use, is, however, from its peculiar pro- perties, most remarkable for excellence for the pur- poses of steam and manufactures ; and especially for the manufacture of iron, on account of the ab- sence of sulphur in its composition. In September, 1833, the steam-boat " Royal Wil- liam," of 180 horse power, and 1,000 tons burthen, arrived in London, having performed the voyage from Quebec to Pictou, and from Pictou to London, by steam. The fuel used was, from Quebec to Pictou English coal, from Pictou to Cowes Albion coal, and from Cowes to London again English coal, taken in at Cowes. The captain and the engineers gave a most decided preference to the Albion coal over the English, and pronounced it to be the best fuel they had ever tried for generating steam. This STEAM VESSELS. 107 coal is n very important fact considered in connection with the immense and growing extent of steam navi- gation in the United States, which will find thus near at hand a su])ply commensurate with that ex- tent of fuel, so valuable for its purposes, and to which it will be applied, when further experience shall have satisfied the Americans of the superiority of such a coal for steam navigation over wood, and of the economy to be derived from the use of it. The trials and experiments made by the Association ill the steam-boats at New York have gone far towards accomplishing this object ; but time is re- quired every where to alter or remove long esta- blished habits or prejudices : and although many of those best acquainted with the subject in the United States are satisfied of the advantages of coal for steam navigation, there are many who maintain that steam vessels cannot be propelled with the same degree of speed by coal as by wood. A comparison of the rates of speed of our steamers with the Ame- rican, will show that this impression is altogether erroneous. Of twelve steam vessels running between London and Gravesend, London and Margate, and London and Leith and Dundee, the speed of which has been measured, six exceed twelve miles in the hour, two go twelve miles per hour, two eleven and a half miles, and one eleven miles per hour. These rates are calculated in statute miles, and the vessel moving in still water ; for tide will often add three or four miles to this speed, and increase it to sixteen miles an hour. This is the utmost the American steamers can accomplish with the aid of the power- m 108 CAPK IIRKTON. ful currents of their rivers ; and the decks f their vessels are incuml)ered with piles of wood, and ren- dered unsafe by the sparks ^^ '\v,g from the flues. Coal lias none of these inconveniences, and from the difFerence of bulk, the consideration of stowage nmst give it the most decided preference in voyages of any length or distance. The use of coal demands, however, a certain management, which the Ameri- cans have not yet altogether attained ; »inil the grates and boilers of their boats are ni^r yet adapted generally for it : but there can ho no d'ubt that wood must be gradually superceded ^ - coal for gene- rating steam, and particularly for .^cam navigation. The following return shows the quantities of coal shipped from the Albion mines, from the beginning of 1828 to September, 1834, dirftinguishing the quantity in each year : — Clialdrons. Buslicls. 1828 4,467 — 1829 5.841 35i 1830 6,426 15| 1831 8,345 21 1832 12,020 19 1833 19,890 24 1834 to September 11,207 — The total being, chaldrons 68,199 7 The coal is raided from four shafts by the aid of steam pumping nnd windinrj engiucd. The establishi- ;.; at tue Albion mines consists of upwards of 150 persons employed in and about the mml ))arJ purti of 1 shoi owii opc^ pari 8VDNEY MINKS. lOli f their iiul ren- le flues, nd from stowage voyages emands, Amcri- in► 124 MAGDALEN ISLANDS. ' i id Amherst with Grindstone Island, whose diameter is about five miles. Cape Abright, the next in succes- sion, is about nine miles long and three broad. Then follows Entry and Coffin Islands. The population consists of nearly 200 families, the greater part of whom are French-Acadians — fishermen. Lieutenant Baddely, who examined the islands, thinks them of ig- neous origin ; — first, by reason of the form of the hills of which they are composed ; — secondly, on account of their porphyritic, amygdaloidal, vesicular or lava-like structure ; — thirdly, the geological appearances of the sandstone, clays, &c., shown in their displace- ment, in their redness, and even in their friability. In some places the soil is a rich black mould, as at St. Vincent's, and other volcanic islands in the West Indies. BOOK in. NEW BRUNSWICK. CHAPTER I. GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION, AREA, AND HISTORY. Geographical "^osition. — New Brunswick, as an eastern section of the continent of North America, is situate between the parallels of 45° 5' and 48"^ 4' 30" north latitude, and the meridians of 63° 47' 30" and 67° 53' longitude west of Greenwich ; bounded on the north by the Bay of Chaleurs, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence (separating it from the district of Gaspe), and by the River Ristigouche, which in its whole course, from its source to its estuary in the Bay of Chaleurs, divides the province from the county of Bonaventure, in Lower Canada ; on the south it is bounded by the Bay of Fundy and Chignecto Inlet, which nearly insulate Nova Scotia, the latter being divided on land by a short boundary line (drawn from Fort Cumberland to Bay Verte, in Northumber- 126 NEW BRUNSWICK. \'^ land straits, an arm of the Gulf of St. Lawrence), which separates the county of Westmoreland, in New Brunswick, from that of Amherst, in Nova Scotia ; on the east by the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Northumberland Strait, which separates it from Prince Edward's Island ; and on the tvest by the United States territory, commencing on the south coast at Passamaquoddy Bay in the Gulf of Fundy (embracing the islands to the northward of 44° 36', such as the Grand Monan, Deer, and Campo Bello), proceeding northward along the River Scodie or St. Croix * ; the River Chiputnetikooh to a chain of lakes, thence from a boundary line commencing at a monument on Mars' Hill, 100 miles west of Fre- dericton, in latitude 45° 57' north, longitude 66° 46' west, and running northerly to about four or five miles west of the River St. John, to the source of Ristigouclie River ; the whole province containing 27,704 square miles, or, 17,730,560 acres. General History. — The early details of this co- lony are comprised in those of Nova Scotia, of which it formed a part, and which the reader will remember to have been finally ceded (after conquest) to Great Britain, by the treaty of Utrecht in 1713, but until the final extirpation of the French power in North America, in 1758 and 1759, Great Britain could not be said to have peaceable possession of New Bruns- wick, since which time it has remained in our pos- session". 1 See Appendix for the Boundary Question, as regards this river. 2 I pass over throughout this work all petty or minute de- GENERAL HISTORY. 127 In 1785 the present limits of New Brunswick were fixed, and the territory was separated from the pro- vince of Nova Scotia — erected into a separate go- vernment, under the administration of Col. Carleton, and a Lcj^islative Assembly was summoned at St. John's. The county was then thinly peopled ; the judicious — the paternal conduct of Governor Carle- ton, unremittingly pursued for twenty years, raised it from a wilderness to comparative civilization, leaving no other duty to the historian than to record the virtues of its founder, and the sufi*erings of the New England, and other American loyalists, who were in a great measure the early settlers in this now important section of the British Empire. I must not, however, omit to notice the dreadful fire at Miramichi, on the east coast, in 1 825, as it is one of the most terrible natural conflagrations of which we have any record in the history of the world. The person wlio has never been out of Europe can have httle conception of the fury and rapidity with which fires rage after a continuation of hot seasons in North America and New Holland, when the drv underwood and fallen leaves, in addi- !'(■ ,1 i ' tails of controversy ; for instance, those that took place between the early French and English settlers in New Brunswick would not interest the general reader, and while occupying a considerable space, they woidd distract the attention from the main jjoints of the history, such as the acquisition, &c., which, in a work of this nature, is alone essentially necessary : I make this observation in order that critics may not suppose me ig- norant of events, which I have not considered it necessary to detail. ■'♦r 128 NEW BRUNSWICK. -/ tion to the resinous quality of tlie timber, afford combustible materials in the greatest abundance. I have seen the side of a mountain, thirty miles long, burning' in New HolUmd, and illumining the sky for many miles ; but the following description by an eye witness (Mr. Cooney) of the Great Mira- michi fire, exceeds any thing of the kind that ever occurred. The summer of 1825 was unusually warm in both hemispheres *, particularly in America, where its effects were fatally visible, in the prevalence of epi- demical disorders. During July aud August, exten- sive fires raged in difltrent parts of Nova Scotia, especially in the eastern division of vhe peninsula. The protracted drought of the summer, acting upon the aridity of the forests, had rendered them more than naturally combustible ; and this facilitating both the dis])ersion and the progress of the fires that appeared in the early part of the season, produced an unusual warmth. On the Gtli of October, the fire was evidently approaching Newcastle ; at different inter- vals fitful blazes and flashes were observed to issue from different parts of the woods, particularly up the north-west, at the rear of Newcastle, in the vicinity of DouglastoAvn and Moorfields, and along the banks of the Bartibog. Many })ersons heard the crackling * During tlie greater part of the year 1J525 I was on the coast of Eastern Africa and Madagascar, in His IV/.ijesty's sliips Levcn and liairacouln, where I found the temperature dread- fully hot, although on board ship: the drought also was very great, and I observed forest fires on ditiercnt parts of the shore, from i'atta aud Lamoo, near tlio ecjuatur, down to iMozambi(iue. GREAT I'IKE AT MIRAMICHI. 129 of falli id s-hrivcllcd branch or lailiri!:^ trees ana s-nnvcjicci lorancues, while a hoarse rumbling noise, not dissiuiilur to the roarinf^ of dis- tant thunder, and divided by ])auses, like the inter- mittent discharg-es of artillery, was distinct and audible. On the 7th of Octol)er the heat increased to such a degree, and became so very oppressive, that many complained of its enervating efl'ects. About twelve o'clock a pale sickly mist, lightly tinged with purple, emerged from the forest, and settled over it. Tliis cloud soon retreated before a large dark one, which occupying its place, wrapt the firmament in a pall of vapour. This incumbrance retaining its posi- tion, till al)out three o'clock, the heat l)ecame tor- mcntingly sultry. There Wds not a breatli of air — the atmosphere was overloaded ; an irresistible lassi- tude seized the peo])le ; and a stui)ifying dulness seemed to pervade every place but tlic woods, which now trembled, and rustled, and shook with an inces- sant and thrilling noise of explosions rapidly following each other, and mingling their reports with a dis- cordant variety of loud and boisterous sounds. At this time the whole country appeared to be encircled by 'dJJcrii zone, which gradually contracting its circle by the devastation it made, seemed as if it would not converge into a point while any thing remained to be destroyed. A little after four o'clock an immense pillar of smoke rose in a vertical direction, at some distance north-west of Newcastle for a while, and the sky was absolutely blackened by this huge cloud ; but a light northerly breeze springing up, it gradually distended, and then dissipated into a variety of shape- less mists. About an hour after, or probably at XOVA SCOTIA. K • 1 , ■ i ■11 130 NEW BRUNSWICK. ?n I half-past five, innumerable large spires of smoke, issuing from different parts of the woods, and illu- minated by flames, that seemed to pierce them, mounted to the sky. A heavy and suffocating canopy, extending to the utmo^^t verge of observation, and appearing more terrific by the vivid flashes and bbzes that darted irregularly through it, now hung over Newcastle and Douglas in threatening suspension, while showers of flaming brands, calcined leaves, ashes, and cinders, seemed to scream through the growling noise that prevailed in the woods. About nine o'clock, or shortly afte., a succession of loud and appalling roars thundered through the forests. Peal after peal, crash after crash, announced the sentence of destruc- tion. Every succeeding shock created fresh alarm ; every claj) came loaded with its own destructive energy. With greedy rapidity did the flames advance to the devoted scene of their ministry ; nothing could impede their progress. They removed every obstacle by the desolation they occasioned, and several hun- dred miles of prostrate forests and smitten woods marked their devastating way. The river, tortured into violence by the humcane, foamed with rage, and flung its boiling spray upon the land, Tiie thunder pealed along the vault of heaven : the lightning appeared to rend the firma- ment. For a moment, and all was still, a deep and awful silence reigned over every thing. All nature appeared to be hushed, when suddenly a lengthened and sullen roar came booming through the forest, driving a thousand massive and devouring flames T GREAT FIRK AT MIRAMIC'llI. 131 or before it. Then Newcastle, and Douglastown, and the whole u rthern side of the river, extending from Bartibog to the Naashwaak, a distance of more than 100 miles in length, became enveloped in an immense sheet of flame, that spread over nearly 6,000 square miles ! That the stranger may form a faint idea of desolation and misery which no pen can describe, he must picture to himself a large and rapid river, thickly settled for 100 miles or more, on both sides of it. He must also fancy four thriving towns, two on each side of this river, and then reflect, that these towns and settlements were all composed of wooden houses, stores, stables, and barns ; that these barns and stables were filled with crops, — and that the arrival of the fall importations had stocked the warehouses and stores with spirits, powder, and a variety of combustible articles, as well as with the necessary supplies for the approaching winter. Pie must then remember that the cultivated, or settled part of the river, is but a long narrow stripe, about a quarter of a mile wide, and lying between the river and almost interminable forests, stretching along the very edge of its precincts, and all round it. Extending his conception, he will see these forests thickly expand- ing over more than 6,000 square miles, and abso- lutely parched into tinder by the protracted heat of" a long summer. Let him then animate the pictu"e by scattering countless tribes of wild animals ; hun- dreds of domestic ones ; and even thousands of men through the interior. Having done all this he will have before him a feeble description of the extent, features, and general circumstances of the country, K 2 r, .1 !(■ -' I3L> NKW BUrNSWICK. ij , ,, wliicli, in tlie course of a few hours, was suddenly enveloped in fire. A more {ghastly, or a more revolt- ini; picture o+' human misery, cannot he well imai^ined. The whole district of cultivated land was shrouded in tiie agonizing memorials of some dreadful defonnini^ havoc. The songs of gladness that formerly re- sounded tlu'ough it were no longer heard, for the voice of misery had hushed them. Nothing hroke u])on the ear but the accents of distress ; the eye saw nothing hut ruin, and desolation, and death. Nevr- castle, yesterday a nourishing town, full of trade and spirit, and containing nenrly 1,000 inhabitants, was now a heap of smoking ruins; and Douglastown, nearly one-third of its size, was reduced to the same miserable condition. Of the 2(J0 houses and store- houses that composed the former but twelve remained; and of the seventy that comprised the latter but six were left. The confusion on board of 150 large vessels then lying in the Miramichi, and exposed to imminent danger, was terrible, — some burnt to the water's edge, — others burning, — and the remain- der occasionally on fire. Dispersed groups of half- famished, half-naked, and houseless creatures, all more or less injured in their persons ; many lament- ing the loss of some property, or children, or relations and friends, were wandering through the country. Of the human bodies some were seen with their bowels i)rotruding, others with the flesh all consumed, and the blackened skeletons smoking ; some with headless trunks and severed extremities, some bodies burnt to cinders ; others reduced to ashes ; manv bloated and swollen bv sutfocation, and several Iving m GHKAT FtllK AT MIUAMICHI. in the last distorted ])ositiou of convulsinj^ torture, liricf and violent was their passai^e from life to death : and dc and nielaneholy was their sepulehre — " un- knclled, uncolKned, and unknown." The immediate loss of life was upwards of oOO human beinj^s ! Thousands of wild beasts, too, had perished in the woods, and from their putrescent carcases issued streams of effluvium and .'tench, that formed con- taj^ious domes over the dismantled settlements. Do- mestic animals of all kinds lay dead and dvinc- in different parts of the country ; myriads of salmon, trout, bass, and other fish, which poisoned by the alkali, formed by the ashes ])recipitated into the river, now lay dead or floundering and gasping on the scorched shores and beaches ; and the countless variety of wild fowl and reptiles shared a similar fate. Such was the awful conflagration at Miramichi, which elicited the prompt benevolence of very many philanthropists in the Old and New World, who subscribed 40,000/. for the relief of the survivors, whose property, to the extent of nearly a quarter of a million, was destroyed. ! 1 s l! if 1 , 1 H 11* CHAPTER II, H' !.i* \' rilYSICAL ASl'F.CT — DIVISION INTO (.'OUNTIF.S — UIVERS AND CHIEF TOWNS — OliOLOOV — SOIL, CMMATK, &C. New Brunswick is gcncmlly composed of bold un- dulations, sometimes swelling into mountains, and again subdividing into vale and lowlands, covered with noble forests, and intersected by numerous rivers and lakes, affording water communications in every direction to the pleasing settlements, scattered throughout the fertile alluvial spots, termed inter- vales '. The greater part of the territory, namely, about 14,000,000 acres, is still in a state of nature, adorned with abundance of timber, and fine extended prairies : an idea of the country will, therefore, t , better conveyed to the stranger by examining its ap- pearance, by counties, which are in general distinctly divided by watercourses, or other natural indications. ' This term, which is frequently used in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and other colonies, is applied to land so !?ituated, with respect to some adjacent river or stream, as to he occa- sionally overflowed, and thus enjoy the advantage of alluvial deposits. '!''.!■ FHYSICAL ASPECT. 135 New Brunswick is divided into ten counties: — viz. Ciloucester, Nortluim1)erland, Kent, Westmoreland, St. John's, Charlotte, Kini^'s, Queen's, Sunbury, and York. Gloucester, Northumberland, and Kent were originally comprised under one county, named North- umberland, and extending over an area of 8,000 square miles, having* a river frontier from the source of the Ristigouche to Dalhousie Harbour, at the head of the Bay de Chaleur, and thence a seaboard along the south side of the bay and the gulf coast to She- diac Island. The New Brunswick shore, along the gulf of St. Lawrence, is low and sandy, covered with trees of a stunted growth, and skirted with extensive marshes, large deep mosses and long sand beaches, formed by the conflicting currents of the gulf, and the different rivers that pierce the shore. The coast line of the magnificent Bay de Chaleur (which is eighty-five miles long and from sixteen to thirty broad), com- mencing in 47" 58' north latitude, 64*^ 30' west lon- gitude, is similar to the gulf shore, but in some j)laces there are perpendicular clifl's of some height. At the entrance of the bay, on the New Brunswick shore, are the two islands Shippigan and Miscou ; the former twenty miles long, low and sandy, with a somewhat fertile soil, inhabited by Acadian French. Miscou is about ten miles round, and, when visited by Mr. M'Gregor, alone tenanted by a disbanded Highland soldier, named Campbell, with his wife, son-in-law, and two daughters ', who found there * Three of the family were not long since drowned by the swamping of a boat, when crossing over to Carac^uette. f; ^. m' 'M '1 i 1 1 . 1. J m t I3G NF-W niUNSWIf K, M •IM cxccUcMit pjisttirc fi)r tlicir flocks atnl lirnis in suni- nicr, ajul abiindiiiu'c of liny for winter foddor. The principal river of the (li?triet, whose seahnnrd hna been just described, is the noble stream called the Miraniichi, which, thirty years ai^o, was only known to u few fur traders, and is now of considerable im- portance, owinj^ to the timber trade and fishericM carried on by its hardy and interiirisinijc inhabitants. The Miramiehi falls into the (iulf of St. Lawrence in 47" 10' north latitude, 64'' 40' west longitude, form- inj;;- at its estuary a capacious bay, with several islands, and a ship channel for vessels of 700 tons burthen, which can naviii,-atc u[)\vards of thirty miles from the sea. Chatham, the principal sea-i)ort town of the district, is situate on the south-east bunk, about twenty-five miles from the (Julf of St. ijuwrence, and on the ojjjjosite banks are the towns of Douglas and Newcastle. It was here the great fire of IS'if), described at page 12f), occurred, since which time Newcastle and Douglas have indeed, Phcenix like. ri.;^n from their ashes, finer towns than they were before the period of that terrific couflag-ration. At these settlements upwards of 200 vessels annually load with timber for Great Britain, &c. Seven miles above Chatham the Miramichi divides into two branches, one running south-west and the other north-west. The tide extends about fifteen miles up the south-west branch, beyond the point of junction, and the banks are settled nearly forty-five miles from the tideway, up to which point large-sized vessels can load and unload : from hence to the river Tank (forty-five miles), small craft, lighters, and barges, ar tl to tv (;L()1;( KSTKIl COI'NTV 137 lie arrive frotn Chatlmm micl Newcastle, and proceed throii^Hi the New nruiiswick c()iii[)any'8 territory for forty miles further; the south-west branch of the Miramiehi containing;,' more water, from the junction of the TauU when it ai^aln ascends to the northward, tlian the Thames from London uj)wardH. The north- west arm of the Miramiehi is more rajjid and rocky, and eonse([uently less navij^able than the soutli-west branch ; there is, however, little obstruction to canoe navi<^ation for about eiu'lity miles, to where it meets the tide, seventeen miles al)ove the harbour. The source of the south-west branch is in the county of York, near the Tobique, twelve miles from the St. John ; the conmiencement of the north-west branch is not known, the country being there little explored; the ibrmer is about \SU miles long before reaching the latter, (which is 100 miles in length,) each receiving several large streams of from twenty to forty miles long. The sea-coast of the Miramiehi is low, but inland the country rises in some i)laces, consistmg of extensive and rich intervales, in others of a ragged rocky territory. The country in general has scarcely yet recovered from the desolating eilects of the great fire in IS'Jo, but the establishment and operations of the New Jirunswick company will, it is to be hoped, facilitate the settlement of so fine a territory. Gloucester county commences near Tracadie, a river falling, into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, about thirty miles north of the Miramiehi ; from tlienco it extends along the shore round Miscou, up the south side of the Bay de Chaleur, and onward to the t ll'l n "' "Ws!^^": 'i,>jyi- 138 NEW BRUNSWICK. sources of the Ristigouche. The coast is low, flat, sandy, and liglitly covered with spruce and fir for two or three miles inland. From Miscou to Mira- michi, and indeed to Shediac, the coast is skirted by large lagoons, some of them twelve miles long by three miles wide, which facilitate the coast navigation of small craft. The largest river in the district is the Ristigouche, or Big River, (so called in contradistinction to the Miramichi, which is smaller,) which rises near Te- misquata lake, and is supposed to be more than 2'20 miles long, with a general course east-north-east, cherished by numerous tributary rivers and streams, and forming, at its estuary, a large and commodious harbour. The entrance of the Ristigouche is about three miles wide, formed by two high promontories of red sand stone, with a bold opening unencumbered by bar or shoal, and containing upwards of nine fathoms water. Two miles from the mouth is the town of Dalhousie, with a broad river channel six or seven fathoms in depth, which may be said to extend for eighteen miles, thus forming a safe and commo- dious harbour for the largest class ships. At up- wards of 200 miles from its embouchure whither the tide flows, the Ristigouche is upwards of a mile wide, and from thence, to within forty miles of its source, it is navigable for barges and canoes. For seventy miles from the Bay of Chaleur the Ristigouche is flanked on either side by two stripes of high but level land, extending generally a mile back with a few prominent elevations, occupying the very edge of the water, and maintaining a position somewhat like the BEAUTIFUL APPEARANCE. 139 bastions of a fortress. It was in the Bay de Chaleur and in the Ristigouche river, that Captain Byron, in 1760, destroyed and captured the French fleet, con- sisting of lia Catherina ; the Esperance, of thirty guns ; the Bienfaisant, of twenty-two ; the Marquis de Marloze, of eighteen guns, together with twenty- two sloops, and small vessels. As may be supposed, the appearance of the country is exceedingly grand and impressive ; wherever the eye wandern nothing is to be seen but an almost immeasurable dispersion of gigantic hills, with an infinite number of lakes and rivers, glens and valleys ; some of the mountains are clothed with the tall and beautiful pine — others sustain a fine growth of hard- wood ; many have swampy summits, and several ter- minate in rich meadows and plains ; in form some are conical, others exhibit c .nsiderable rotundity ; many lank and attenuated, and not a few of the most grotesque shapes. Sometimes the precipitous banks of the river are 300 feet above its bed, and at every bend, which is about every six miles, the voyager is deceived with the appearance of entering a well shel- tered lake ; but at about seventy miles from the sea, the country becomes comparatively level, and all the way to the head of the Ristigouche is a fine, bold, open territory, consisting of a rich upland, skirted with large tracts of intervale, and covered with a dense and unviolated growth of mixed wood, in which large groves of pine are very conspicuous. This fine country is as yet but very thinly settled along a part of the river's banks, but from the su- perior quality of the pine timber, and the richness J *-s 140 NEW rUUNSWIfK. I ^'1 i: :■• of the soil, it is to be hoped it will be speedily settled. The river, that of Nipisif^hit, rises in some moun- tainous heights in the north-west, and liows in a broad and deep channel to the cataracts, twenty miles above its mouth ; below the falls it flows in a rapid and tumultuous manner, over rocks and shoals, until it meets the tide about three miles above the basin of Nissisiguit, into which it disembogues. The county town is named Bathurst, and situate on the left bank of the Nissisiguit, with a commodious haven in front. The Vpsulqnitch is a very large river, rising in the unexplored j)art of the mountainous country near the sources of the Nipisighit, flowing north for about seventy miles, when it flows into the Ristigouche, about thirtv miles from its mouth; during its 'v! .'jj- course it presents no obstruction to navigation. •'.-■'• a cataract of a perpendicular fall of twelve feet, nine miles from its mouth. Kent Countv, so called after his late Royal High- ness Edward Duke of Kent and Strathern, and for- merlv a part of Northumberland, is situated on the gulf of St. Lawi*ence. com])rehending a seaboard of about fifty miles, and extending from Point Escumi- nac, the south extremity of Miramichi Bay, to She- diac Island. The shore, as before observed, is striped by sand beaches and marshes, with several small but good harbours, on which are clustered many of the Acadian- French settlements. The Richibucto, on which is built the shire town of Liverpool, is about sixty-five miles long, and rolls >'l!l, WESTMORELAND COUNTY. 141 June into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, through a safe and capacious harbour, forty- three miles south of Escu- minac. In its greatest width at the entrance it is not more than a mile, and often does not exceed 200 feet. The tide flows twenty-two miles from its mouth, affording a sufficiency of water for large vessels ; canoes navigate to its source, whence there is a small portage to the Salmon River, whose source is unknown, but which Hows for eighty miles to the south-west, and falls into Salmon IJay, at the head of the Grand Lake in Queen's County. The banks of the Richibucto, for nine miles from the sea, are low and sandy, but furtiier inland the country as- sumes an easy and gradual elevation, indicating by a better growth of timber a more fertile soil. The Chel)uctouche rises also in Kent County, is thirty-six miles long, falls into the gulf twenty miles to the south of Richibucto, and is navigable for schooners twelve miles from its mouth, to which extent the tide reaches. Tiiis river is remarkable for its abun- dance of large and excellent oysters. Westmoreland County, comprising 2120 square miles, situate between the Straits of Northumber- land, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the head of the Bay of Fundy, is bounded on the north by the C'ounty of Kent and by the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; fciouth, by the boundary line separating New Bruns- wick from Nova Scotia ; and on the west, by King's County. Two-thirds of Westmoreland has a water frontier ; and forming, as it does, the only land com- munication betv>een Nova Scotia and New Bruns- wick, it is a rich and valuable district. There are seve- '^ 142 NEW BRUNSWICK. I'i ral rivers, such as the Cocagne, which falls into the Gulf of St. Lawrence after a course of eighty miles, the Great and Little Chemogue, the Misseguash, the Memraracook, and the Peticoudiac, which falls into Shepody Bay, an inlet of the Bay of Fundy, where the rise of tide sometimes exceeds fiftv feet ; whilst in Bay Verte (so called from the salt water, grass that grows in the mud, and floats on the surface), on the St. Lawrence side of the isthmus, the tide does not rise more than ten feet. The turn of the tide in the Bay of Fundy, exhibits that peculiar phe- nomenon termed the Bore, which is observed at the mouths of the Ganges, Indus, and Mississippi in such grandeur, and in witnessing which, on one occasion, 1 nearly lost my life. In the Bay of Fundy the re- ceding waters seem to accumulate without advancing till the waves attain a considerable perpendicular height, when they rush forward with an incalculable velocity and irresistible force, their roaring noise striking terror into the animals on the shore, who fly to the highlands trembling in alarm for their safety. St. John's County is bounded on its whole length south and south-east, by the Bay of Fundy ; on the north and north-west by the King's County ; on the east by Westmoreland ; and on the west by Char- lotte County : its chief town is distinguished by being the maritime capital of the province, and by the embouchure of the large river of St. John falling into the Bay of Fundy in this district. The coast along the Fundy shore is almost v series of barren rocks, particularly in the large parish of St. Martin ; but owing to the contiguity of the capital, it is care- ST. JOHN S CITY AND RIVER. 143 fully cultivated, and presents a smiling appearance inland, where several moderate-sized hills are inter- spersed with beautiful lakes and water courses. The city of St. John, in latitude 45"^ 20' north, longitude 66° 3' west, by reason of the noble river on which it is built, is the emporium of the inland trade of a great part of the province : it is a hand- some town, on a rugged, rocky, and uneven penin- sula projecting into the harbour, with numerous public buildings of stone, brick, or wood. A court- house, church, and bank, of stone, are particularly remarkable for their excellent structure. Being an incorporated city, St. John is governed by a mayor, aldermen, and commonalty, who have an annual re- venue of 2000/. at their disposal for the improvement of the city, whose population amounts to about 10,000 mouths. The harbour is easy of entrance, capacious and safe, with a lighthouse on a tmall island (Partridge), about the centre of the entrance. The view from seaward is bold and rugged ; but on opening the harbour, the wooded mountainous back- ground, and general picturesque scenery, forms a very beautiful picture. The fine river, St. John's, ha^j a course of nearly 600 'miles from its source, near the Chaudiere in Lower Canada, to where it falls into the Bay of Fundy : at its entrance into the harbour, the river passes through a fissure of solid and overhanging rock, exhibiting every appearance of having been formed by some convulsion of nature. The volume of water collected in a course of so many hundred miles, being here compelled to pass through so li, '1 144 NEW BRllNSWK'K. ;-ii I I narrow a paj sage as 1.300 feet, occasions wliat arc called the falls of St. John, which are merely a sluice on a strand scale. Mr. l^aiUie says, that at times of j^rc;at floo Is, the appearance from the overhanging precipices is truly wonderful, and the noise tremen- dous, particularly on the ebh of tide. The ordinary rise of the tide above the falls is six feet, and then only when the river is not swollen : the tide must flow twelve feet below, before the river becomes passable for vessels, — the time for such iv.ssage lasts about twenty minutes, after which the rise of the tide creates a fall from below : on the returning tide the water becomes level for the sanie space of time, and thus only at four times in the twenty-four hours can vessels enter St. John's liarbour, in wliich the rise of tide is from twenty-tive to thirty feet, cover- mg the low muddy shores ia front of the city, and rendering the laudscupc, particularly wlien viewed from Carleton heii^rhts, extremclv InterestinfT. Above the falls the river widens, and forms a bay of some magnitude, surrounded by high and rugged wood- land ; (from a village in this bay, the steam boat for Fredericton, the capital, ^^tarts). Passing up the bay, huge calcareous rocks and viut dark ])ine forests stretch up the sides of lofty hills and promontories. The same scenery prevails in Grand Vnxy, from whose extensive shores the Kenebekasis Hay and River bends off to the east for nearly forty miles, twenty of which are naviuable for larue vessels'. On re- ' Mr. IM'Grcsror says tint tlu; sliore.s of tlio Keiiehck 'ISlS are p;en('nilly abrupt and rocky ; mar tlic la-ail is Siissiox \alc a b^'autiful tract of coniitry riclily cultivatoil. I 'iMi SC'ENEBY ON THE ST. JOHN S. 14') ceiving the Neripis from the west, the St. John bends rather abru})tly, and forms a beautiful vista of eighteen miles, termed the Long Reach, at whose liead the lands on each ?ide the river, and the islands which divide it into separate streams, present a beaut itul picture. J3elle Isle Bay, a fine sheet of water receiving several rivers, branches off here for upwards of twenty miles to the westward. The St. John then winds to the northward, towards Frede- ricton, receiving the waters of the Washdemoak and Grand Lake from the east, and the Oromucto from the west. The scenery here exhibits much beauty, and a great portion of the soil is intervale or alluvial, and the result is a luxuriant landscape. At Frede- ricton, ninety miles above St. John's city, the river is half a mile wide : and the tide, which rises at the capital from six to ten inches, is felt nine mile?^ further up, where the St. Jolui receives the Madame Keswick, where several lovely isles and cultivated farms charm the eye of the spectator. For 130 miles further, the river may stiJl l)e ascended in batteaux or tow boats ; in this course the St. John flows through a fertile wooded country, and receives se- veral rivers, such as the ^leduxnikik, Tobique (whicii is 200 miles long), llestook (which has been ex- plored for 100 miles), &c. At \¥oodstock and Northampton, sixty-three miles above Frcderictmi, there are many beautiful islands, and the country begins to assume boluer features as it approaclies within a few miles of the American boundary. The Alcduktik rapids, below Woodstock, are with diffi- culty passed through the foamii>g torrent. T!ic next NOVA SCOTIA. L ■I! !i i II ,t. ''I H 146 NEW BRUNSWICK. I m f' ?/ conspicuous place arrived at is Mars Hill, about five miles and a half west of the river St. John, and 100 from Fredericton ; and which has a considerable degree of interest attached to it, from the circum- stance of its being the point fixed on by the British Commissioners as the commencement of the range of highlands forming the boundary of the United States. The mountain is about three miles in length, with a base of upward a of four miles, an elevation of 2000 feet above the sea, and 1200 above the source of the St. Croix ; near the summit it is almost per- pendicular. As it is the highest point in its vicinity, the prospect commands a great extent of territory : immediately beneath stretches the vast forests of which the adjacent county is composed, whose undu- latory swells, clothed with the funereal green of the fir, and the brilliant verdure of the birch, resemble stupendous waves, the more elevated spots rising above the others, like towers on tlie ocean : towards Brighton, the eye wanders over one vast scene of an emerald hue. Proceeding onwards to 4G° 55' north latitude, we arrive at the Grand Falls *, where the St. John is contracted between rugged cliffs overhung with trees, sweeping along a descent of several feet with furious impetuosity, until the interruption of a ridge of rocks changes the hitherto unbroken volume into one vast body of turbulent foam, which thunders over a per- pendicular precipice, about fifty feet in height, into a ' I am glad to hear that our Government intend, to fortify tlie country at these falls. YORK COUNTY. 147 iT " deep vortex amonc^ huge black rocks, when the St. John rolls out impetuously through a channel still more confined in width, over a succession of falls, for about a mile ; the cliffs here frown, overhanging the St. John so much as in some places to conceal the very river. The country beyond is iich and fer- tile, particularly on the shores of Lake Taraisquata, which is thirty miles long by two or three miles wide ; and without proceeding to notice the St. John further, I may observe, that the fine country border- ing it is that now claimed by the crafty Americans : which if ceded to them, England deserves to lose every colony in the west. It will now be necessary to say a few words on the other counties bordering on the St. John River and Passamaquoddy Bay. The county of York, which is bounded on the north by the River Ristigouche ; on the south b\ Charlotte County ; on the east by the county of Sunbury ; and on the west by the Province of Maine (United States), is of great extent (7848 square miles) but thinly settled, and in several parts little known ; it is well watered by various rivers and lakes, and though the soil is in some places rocky, there is a large quantity of intervale or allu- vial land, which at the settlement of Madewaska, &c. is well cultivated. York County contains the capital of the province — Fredericton, in 45° 57' north latitude, 66° 45' west longitude ; eighty-five miles distant from the sea coast at St. John's i. * Eighty-five mil»;s from St. John's, ninety from St. An- l2 .' 1 148 NKW nUUNSWlCIK, r. "'r Tlie site of Frcderictou is upon a flat territory, on the right hank of the River St. .lohnV, a hody of water C(|ually iuterestinij^ from its extent and purity, and wliieh is here three quarters of a mile wide : the river, niakinjj^ an elhow, encloses the city on two sides ; whilst, on the land side, the jjlaiii is likewise enck)sed hy a chain of hills, and ojiposite to it the Nashwak rolls its broad, and sometimes rapid, stream into the St. John's, which to this point is navi;.',able from the sea upwards for vessels of fifty tons bur- then. Fredericton is laid out in blocks of a quarter of an acre stpiare, of which there are cig-hteen ; the streets are disposed rectangularly, some of them being a mile long, and, for the most part, continuously built on with wooden houses. The public edifices consist of the Province Mall (where the Provincial Assembly and Courts of Justice assemble), tlie Court-house, Barracks, Government House, Library, Church, Chapels, and Kirk, with several other structures, the number of which is ra])idly increasing. Fredericton was founded by Sir Guy Carleton, in 1785, shortly after the erection of New lirunswick into a separate province ; its situation as a central depot for commerce and military })urposes is admi- rable ; the population may now be estimated at about 5000, and it will doubtless rapidly increase witli the progressive improvement of the province. SuNnuiiY County, Iving on both sides of the drow's, ilitto from Nortluunhfrlan.l, 140 west of Tort Cmnhcr- laiid ill WestniorclamI, and ditto from the Upper Settk-nieiu in Madavvaska. QUEEN 8 COUNTY. 149 the River St. John, is bounded on the north-west hy the county of York ; north and north-east hv Nortlnun- herland ; soutii hy ( 'harlottc ('ounty, and south-east hy Queen's County ; it eontains four paris^hes, Ma- ii^eeville and Sheffield on the north-east, and l^incohi and iiurton ori the south-west side of the river, the two former heini^ considered the most productive tracts in the jirovinee, in consecjuence of their b'.'ing animally overflowed. It is impossible to conceive a scene niore luxuriant than these tracts exhibit in the season of harvest ; for more than twenty miles below Frederieton there is scarcely an unimproved spot on the banks of the St. John, throuuh which run a chain of islets e([ually fertile with the main. Burton aid Lincoln jjarishes are situated on hiu;hlands, with valuable slips of intervale, the whole of which are in a high state of cultivation. Sunbury County is com- puted to contain 40, COO acres of jjasture and tillage ground, and upwards of 20,000 of meadow ground. The next to it, where the St. John's takes a more southerly course, is — Queen's County, extending on both sides of the river, and bounded on the north-west by Sunbury ; north by Northumberland ; north-east by Kent ; south-east by King's County ; and on the south and Koutli-west by Charlotte C^ounty : containing four l)arishes, Gazetown and llampstead on the south-east of the river, and Waterborough and^Vickhanl on the other. This county, containing 15"20 square miles, is extensively fertile, and yields tine timber in large quantities for ship building. The Grand Lake, a conspicuous feature of the district, is thirty miles 150 NEW DRUNSWICK. I'fj J )' lonf^ and three broad. A little further to the east, and oi)iK)> ^ £ •^ 4 7 14 24 2 1 4 2 •i 4 2 Hi 23 1 41 2.'! 2 5 *«* 1 22 2 2 ,) 12 4 11 • •* ;i 22 ( 1 20 1 7 3 IS 8 5 ... 1!) 1 10 • >> ... 15 () 9 ... 20 ■ •( 7 2 2 IS 3 11) ... 17 • *• !) 4 1 23 3 5 ... 17 • •■ 10 2 1 17 5 8 ... 14 • ■• 8 • •• 9 22 7 2 11 5 • *• 14 15 8 (J 4 ... !) 14 44 8 58 20 245 52 2 7, 3 _'l i 159 17 87 The animal and vegetable kingdoms, detailed un- der Canada, answer equally for New Brunswick. CHAPTER III. POPULATION BY COUNTIES AND PARISHES — GOVERNMENT FINANCES — COMMIUCE — PROPERTY — RELIGION — EDUCA- TION AND THE PRESS — SOCIAL STATE, &C. m Population. — I regret to state that there has been no census of New Brunswick since 1824, when the aggregate number of the inhabitants was — Whites, males. 38,764 ; females, 32,656 ; total, 'I ;i I 15G NEW BRUNSWICK. 71,420. Free blacks, males, 74P ; females, 774; i?rand total, 72,943. Divided by counties tbe population was, in 1824 — 1 ^ 1 _3) «=!!>. c: cc :-. — r^ o 'I 1 ni Tt- !>• — '— CC -. C^ I ^ :-2 1 g _; 3 1.-5 "c ?■: 5v) — 1 i». .^ sa -^ ?^ rt ' b ir; ♦-» E^ ?i 4> C5 *^ CC W Ci CC C^l w r-: i^ CI r-s n -M i-; i^ X ic rt a: r- CM V2 i~ C-. iC -•< i-^ t3 lO w Tr '.J -^ ^ ■^ ^ ci ^ CI ^* ^ X — - r>. f *^ =0 •+• ifi : ra I^ ^ l^ u- M M r5 -. t^ lack Feni — * c^ t-* M - w^ U~ -O •»< M -H — rr SC 30 rt ■"N ^ •soniyi aainibs •f^ o o o •* ^- 1 1 M 7-1 1 1 M = o r: lit 1!0JV 1 1 C-: 1- 1 1 — .I a; ;-. — — ci -f — -; •^j . o "C •.-» C-l vj X _ . . a tM 73 ^ . j-i i-t O s -^ o ■/>...... J 3 . * >. g .s .. >,ill 1 c S ^ X '- t:: "^ ^ ^ ♦ a> u o o O 5 * POPULATION, W 74; D4— iAt St. Jolm's, from Groat Britain I ... Irc'laii'.l i Total K'lual to At Mirainiclii .. 1 EMIGRANT.S, IS12. Adults. 1 Under 14. Under 7. 7;{,'> 10,'i [ 4028 402 U)5 774 5;J03 1 027 y.'i!) 5,989 \ Full Passengers 2:0 J from Ireland. Total . . 0,2,)9 A pensus by parishes gives the following detail :- Kent VViikcfioia Woi'ilstcick Isoi'tlmniiiton _ , Priiuv Williiim '" Kiiii;'s l.oar I'rcilerictoii llouKlas . St. .Mary's Total 2297 lOU) Sl.i riii KVi 1S4!I i.iiir ii Hello Island (Iranil Manan Jltto West Islt's Total . 1,^M> 4.'')3 KIO,-) iiw,-; 22ii:i 7-i2 I44.i ri.">H ri9h ;)2u7 c« a ! 1 Parishes. 1S24. 1834. i 1 k(' r Lincoln . . . • 1 Iturton . . . ■ ii70 3 i;i;is - 1 AIomTwillc . '-Sheffield . . • Total . 4S.1 9, 7.3.-> 3227 *. Gape Town . fiOii ■A jltanu.st«ul . Wat rhorougli 723 C 202J a ( WUkhain Brunswick Total . 1100 d 2S!) 4741 ^ Westfiolil 71.sed to. The House oi' Assembly contains twenty -eight members, thus contributed : — City of St. John two, county of ditto, four; counties, Charlotte four. King's two, York four, Westmoreland four, Queen's and Sunbury, two each ; Kent one, Northumberland two, and Gloucester one. The provincial parliament sits for about two months during the winter at Frede- ricton, and is regulated in its proceedings after the manner described in the preceding chapters. * The number of eniiirrants which arrived at St. John's from the 24th June to die 2(ith July, was 1,144 ; viz. 89:> adults — 87 between 7 and 14 years of age, and 104 under 7 years. MILITARY DEFENCE. FINANCE. 159 Military Defence. — The militia of the province consists of upwards of 12,000 men, distributed in regiments as follows: — 1. York county, five batta- lions; 2. St. John's city, two battalions ; 3. St. John't! county, two battalions ; 4. Sunbury county, four battalions ; 5. Westmoreland county, four batta- lions ; 6. Northumberland county, two battalions ; 7. Gloucester county, two battalions ; 8. Kent county, two battalions; 9. King's county, 3 batta- lions (with cavalry attached) ; 10. Queen's county, two battalions ; making a total of ten regiments, and twenty nine battalions. Each battalion has a lieutenant-colonel-major, 11 to 15 captains, 15 to 17 lieutenants, 10 to IG ensigns, and a paymaster, adjutant, quarter- master, and surgeon. The laws are administered by a Supreme Court, and minor tribunals. The former has a chief justice and three puisne judges. There are also Courts of Chancery, Vice Admiralty, and for granting probates of wills, &c. The number of barristers and attorneys prac- tising in the province are — fifteen at Fredericton, nineteen at St. John's, and tliirty-seven at other stations. There are fifty public notaries. Finance. — Taxation. — The revenue of New Bruns- wick is principally derived from duties levied on the importation of goods at the several ports of the ])rovince ; thus, in 1832: — St. John's. — Ordinary duties secured on merchandise im- ported into St. John, 12,245/.; ad valorem duties on nicr- I'liandise of foreign grovvtli or manufacture, 1,114/. ; ordinary and ad vah)rem duties on ilitto, under Acts 11 Geo. IV. c. 1. and 1 Wm. IV. c. 1., 323/. ; auction duties paid into the Pro- IGO NEW imuxswicK. m S I vinco Treasury at St. Jolm, (!JJ.')'. ; sums ncfUcd l)y tlie Province Treasurer at St. John t'roui tlie Colleetor and Con- troller of his Majesty's Ciislonis, on aecomit c.r duties collected by them under Acts of Imperial Parliament, ',\,it2il. ; duties received for the sujipnrt of the lijrht houses at tlie entrance of the harbour of St. John for the year Ullil, auiountini;- to 1,11I ; reveime at Hiciiibucto lor UVM, yXM. ; ditto at Si)e- diac, (50/. ; ditto at Dalhousie, 550/. ; ditto at Dathurst, (H\/. ; ditto at Fri'dericton, -ZiOf.; ditto at Woodstock, 104/.; ditto at Sackville, iiiil.; ditto at Bay Du Verte, 14/. ; ditto at Lud- low, 42/. — total nett revenue in the province for the year 1JI.'{I, 28,l9U/.i ' The whole of the export from St. John in IJJIil was from the stock imi)orted in llloO, which, added to the fact of there having been an unusually large stock on hand at the close of that year, will in part account for the decrease of the revenue in the ordinary duties. c tl c re fo at tl mv at REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE. 161 From 1821 to 1831 the gross revenue has been*- Years. Revenue. Expenditure. Parlia- Rcrenuc. mentary (irants. Total. Civil. Militr-y. Total. £. 1 £. £. £. £. £. 1821 31100 31100 25003 1822 284'35 2S455 1823 3)0!H) 340!)(i 1824 44()70 44070 1825 43055 43055 30537 39537 182f) 34r)0!i 5100 3!>7()!) 59804 950 008)4 1827 r.1155 5100 (10255 40920 950 41870 1828 31740 5100 30840 42010 850 43100 1829 33350 5100 38450 41203 1250 12453 18 JO 40284 4!;284 42(iOG '■•87 44193 1831 2yfi45 21)015 20120 ■■..t 20047 1832 CHid'J 68709 1 The following shows the amount of receipts in the Crown Land Office in the year 1831, which is termed the casual revenue, now solely at the disposal of the Crown, and which Mr. Stanley, when Colonial Sec- retary, offered to surrender to the House of Assembly, for their disposition, provided a permanent civil list, amounting to 10,000/. per annum, were granted for the principal officers of the colony. The grand total revenue of New Brunswick for 1832 was 68,769/. 1 I derive these figures from a manuscript table prepared at the Colonial Office. NOVA SCOTIA. M 'Hi i t I lu 162 NEW BRUNSWICK. Tonnage on timber licenccM £6{U4 Office fees on 1,2()4 timber petitions at 45.v. (less 20*. to Surveyor unci Governor), 25*. l.')02 X7f526 Purchase money for land 40G7 Warrants, searches, &c 25 11719 From which deduct. Expenses of preparing and issuing patents, licences, &c 2750 Less 20.V. each on 1,2^4 petitions to Go- vernor and Secretary 1204 1486 £10233 Abstract of tlie nett revenue of the province for 1833, after deducting drawbacks, &c. Nett revenue at St. John, 23,H0l/. , St, Andrew's, 2,904/. ; St. Stephen, 278/. ; West Isles, 1,552/.; Miramichi, 5,384/.; Ilichibucto, 349/. ; Shediac, 70/- ; Dalhonsie, 888/. ; Bathurst, 213/. ; Fredericton, 29/.; Woodstock, 147/. ; Petticodiac, \',4. ; Bay de Verte, 22/.— Total, 35,(i«l/. Expenditure. — The following salaries were paid out of the casual revenue for 1831 : — Salary of the Commander-in-Chief, 1,500/. ; Chief Justice, 950/. ; three Assistant Judges, at (JoO/. each, 1,950/. ; Attorney General, 150/.; Secretary and Clerk of the Council, 250/.; Archdeacon, 300/. ; Presbyterian Clergyman at St. John's, 50/. ; Agent for Emigrants, 300/. ; Commissioner of crown lands and Surveyor General, 1,750/.; allowance for Clerks to him, 909/. annuity to Mr. Lockwood, 150/. ; donation to King's College, 1,000/.; Indians, CO/.; government contingencies, 300/. — 9,619/. ; add Exchange, 1-9, 1,008/.— Currency, 10,687/. 7 1^1' MONETARV SYSTEM, 163 Of tlto warrants, 21),fJ(MJ/. paid by the Province Treasurer in 18in, the objects may be classed under the followin|f heads : — Education. — Parish scliools, 3,fl33^ ; ji;rammar schools, flOO/.; college, 1,1U0/. Bounties. — Fisliing, 3,094/.; grain, 1,105/.; destruction of bears, 144/.; erection of oat-mills, 175/. lloads and Bridges. — Great roads, 3,874/. ; bye roads and bridges, 3,731/. Expenses of the Legislature, 3,813/.; militia, 472/. ; apprehending deserters, 55/. ; public l)uildings, 2,856/. ; packets and couriers, 285/. ; law expenses, C37/. ; charitable purposes, tJ75/. ; contingencies, 780/. ; collection and protection of the revenues, 2,093/. ; miscellaneous, 592/.— Total, 29,008/. A good deal of attention is now being paid to the formation of roads and bridges — the following was the distribution of 20,000/. in 1832— Great roads, 10,000/. Cross roads.— Halifax, 725/. ; Col- Chester, 700/. ; Pictou, 700/. ; Cumberland, 050/. ; Hants, 744/. ; Kings, 744/. Roads in Cape Breton, 2,000/; Sydney, 765/. ; Annapolis, 775/. ; Shelburne, 775/. ; Lunenburg, 712/. ; Queens, 650/. It will be seen from the foregoing that New Bruns- wick is another of those valuable sections of the em- pire that has been erroneously rep'^asented as a drain on the Home Exchequer. The revenue of the pro- vince is adequate to all its reasonable expenditure. Monetary System '. — Accounts are kept in pounds, shillings, and pence ; and British coin in general circulation. The paper currency consists of the notes of the Bank of New Brunswick at Si. John's, incorporated by Act of Assembly, of which there were in circulation, in 1834, about 45,000/., with a ' Weights and measures as in England. M 2 M 164 NEW rT.t:N«wicK. \i i' 'iji ■,T ll 3 ,1 }! capital of 50,000/. Its notes vary iVom ^>s. to 20/., and the profits average 10.^ per cent. There is another bank at St. Andrew's, with a capital of 15,000/. ; and another is established for Fredericton, with a similar amount. According* to recent accounts the latter has commenced well. The capital stock of the central (Fredericton) bank was all subscribed for in nine days and four hours, exclusive of holydays. The book was opened by the 8ubscri])tion of the Chief Justice, and closed by the Provincial Secretary, and both these gentlemen were ready to increase the number of their shares. After the filling up of the GOO shares, nearly 100 additional shares were applied for, by persons (mostly capitalists, including two of the most wealthy men in this part of the ])rovince,) who promised, in the order of priority in which they stood, to supply any deficiency that might occur in the subscriptions for the stock. One of the stock- holders was offered a premium of five per cent, for his stock, after the formation of the bank. 475 shares were subscribed for in Fredericton, forty in Kings- clear, and nine in Douglas, making 524 in the county of York. Forty-eight were subscribed in Carlcton, four in Sunbury, four in Kent, and twenty in the city of St. John. The whole stock was taken by sixty- five individuals. Had the capital stock been 25,000/. instead of 15,000/. it could have been easily raised in Fredericton alone. The bank of British North America, which has been carried into execution by one of England's purest patriots and best citizens, William Medley, Esq. of Lombard- street, London, originated in my suggestion, and the first prospectus i 'h f • ! COMMEHCE. iGr> was drawn up by mc in March, 1836. I have no doubt it will be productive of the most bcaeftciul results. CoMMKUcE, — Shipping. — The maritime importance of New Brunswick is risinf^ rapidly ; whether as regards its trade, or the shipping built in, owned by, or exported from, the province. For the following tables illustrative of its progress, I am indebted to the returns printed by the House of Assembly in the Province, — to Colonial Office manuscripts, — and to the Custom House annual returns, deposited in the Plantation Office, London, — a department which reflects so much credit on Mr. Woodhouse's manage- ment. 'ii I it 166 x^EW BRUNSWICK. fill i4 O l-H ^. t) Z o o Ph K CO cfl o -^ -M to 'f^ »>• .^ fM ^r CO CA C X)l~ — to ct 0-. c -♦• ■•■^ o __•« O <0 00 CO o> «0 'M ;= C~, 00 to 3 s f^ W 05 CI l>» CO »0 00 o *t< to MC^cocvlCqcotOO) ;2- ^S»IOC0iM50C»»t<-tiMb«. O O o t~ «>.OC0 — — Xt^tO ^ — '^ OCit^CS— "tOOCO n-.C^n(MOCOlM . F-< ^«Ttoco-».to •O ^ . F-4 to — «>nooifsoioi-iM 2 o> oofiracoi^tooi-fl'tjoi a . Cm : • 1^ tfs -^ o c» GO o n" CI lo O U9 *ti O Oi • . c — — ■ O f Cl i.O to to N H-" TTt^OCOOCl — OOOOIO •Z a F~» (— « t-.* (— 1 •C-S M,° oSl i •CO^Ht^OCCO— «00C5tO»O U : — C5 0-. 0000 — r^mo5to ^- Ol — — WM3O5-t<00Meo . o mtoccoo — OMOJ^- M 00 cioococif-icotO'oosM c => : :-ti = -*oci« = tot^ — j_i ^^ c t^ : .OOOMtOClOO^OOlcO rt.S H2 ClOTft^'OOVtOtOOOOO S rt MO-. — — ™ — — — — P5 5^ : : — ifs CI o to Oi o o f^ eo .oo^HCO^^^t'-»i"'r>f5*r^^ l-^r^Tt^toi/^tOiOu^toto ■ a ;i t> to I- M CO CO Tf. to i« o o »r^ I^ lO iO CO O 1>- -^ C"CiC^I«I>lCi<^tO — CO t/J C «"1 =" ostot^-rd- -^r^ 13 'H £_, C-I 00 ^ l» ^ f lO lO CO — < t^ uo UO OCMlMMCOevjCOCv) ooco'*i^Tj.oo'i tc to •+• t^ c-i o o Lo Vl ^^ wt! — 05 CO CO I^ CI ^^ ^.^ to c -*< : ■ c; 00 -^ C) m oi ci to 00 o c . O OS . . to 1^ CI ■>»■ to O CI O Cl o be « H — — eo-»co .is — fco-o — coocoooo 1— » — • 1— I r^ T3 o no ?0 — ^ CI "^ !>• CI to X »o m m — 1 00 00 3i !>. ^^ -^ l>- CO !>. c 1^ • •ocot^o;coio-+i^-fi>. c o OS : . CI -^ -O -^ '.O — ' CO to o o KH H-^ iro t^ t>. CI — CI 30 — 00 O •« c t— « PI ^- I— l-N •c » og i • — eo'o»^ciio-t.0"r02COtO . '♦< — CI lo in "5 o CI CI o e> 05 O ciooi-.00)000>vrjTt.oo c — : ; t- Cl tc lO CI to O O 05 o 13 -S c n : . 1^ 1^ to O 00 iO — ■»t' CO 05 H2 00 to CI to CO to t*' 'f to CI O f^ ^ . « „ ^- oS : •C50C — 0>t^t^OOC5CI . ■»»' r>. :o o i^ to •>- »^ "0 to S'h'- toiO'<»<'.0'<><>0'>»<'! c-\ . -» to o ^j^ eo — s^ 1— l-N ■a !3 . M C5 <0 ■* to — M W m •+- ^^ CO in -^ lo eo 1^ C 00 — O 3i "»> U5 : «-. M is O ="< o X eo eo : a> in ■*-» HS--^- eo Tf* a N M CO eo O 00 ^ CO "♦! >o -« 00 eo • o in CO eo t^ M : 00 eo 1-^ in ■^ , ^ in Oi -H t^ Oi 1^ 1-^ to c cmooo — wco — e^ Oi 5 0-. CO 1» ■* l^ IM •* e>i 00 ill T^ CO CO eo r-i C5 o> '-3 a ^ CO eo « — — W . eo c*j lO w o CO CO o m KOOOIMOfCliO — CO rt C lo lO 0> «^ CO in o o oc r» CO to eo -t>r>. if f^ .-o lo e^ eo eo c M w -^eoiMCsoooeoeo O 1^ lO JO c^ w 00 to — C>) ^ Tf O M 00 o I-. cq pi CO c^i 00 r» lo cs lo r i.o — c>4 o CO M ?< ^r -f lo r^ Tfi — gtc e^ c» »-^ CO (A o '2 ; . — Cl O •* eo eij ■* "S" i ■/3 ira CO >^ -o 00 ■* lo eo 1 Cc^ooocoeoineo t>* 1 o -"O o in ao eo evi •4J 1 H2'-'* a w IN o j 00 ^'NTj.oiooO'^eo 1 ° 00 to ci 05 eo o *■« (^ , \ 'Zi-'f o t^ S 1 « l-H ' tc 5 c-ooooeoccintfioo 3 to o t^ TC CO -" i; CO eo eo ■* f" ■»«• 00 ^N ■3 ^in eo B ^ H « . to o -o t^ eo eo CO !>. ■3 too — ■*-• u . . . en '^ •'-4 • . . . " c!S . .5? • • 5^ es >> i.s| 1.2 .S .■" - 13 S S i; ^ 4-1 -e^!^ na *7 flj to — a> t« M •" "S 2 -s — 2 "S'c.- 'S 'C-S t3P30 P P30 168 NEW BRUNSWICK. ^ , I' ^ o O t/1 1j 'c ^ c .s '> o u a. - ,o o c o o Vi Cm !>. t«. O O 00 1^ o to o aj -o © r* o 1 t^ m 13 o o tn g oj o> CS FH 1 Tt< M -< CO •a . C3 O Is. CO m IM n M M 00 M « (M !>. o C5 « — in o -n IM rt C t^ IM l-H O -« -O — so IM o St O C5 C5 Fl n 1 t>. M H«^ « r— !-• 3 o '*>■ -; w ifs o 5^ O — --i CI CO CO « >5 O Oi ■* 1-1 1 o c>) CO in to CO C l^;- M 1 IM — 00 . m B OO «5 00 .-1 as CO oo to !0 -*< 1-9 4) w W CI m o -< 1 o o CO "5 g in \n (» CO — 1 CM 1-1 to CO . o o o ^ oi a 04 CO w CO m «^ !>. CO .-" o :^ o o « in ca C CO "ti IM to W F- Cs 1 -o w 00 O ^^^ rH W m — tx« is c H- - l-H N to t-^ -: OS in 0.0 « CO to « m in o CO to CO o cvi 1 CO in i^ « CO 1 — » C r^ CO o> in -^ CO in CO 1) t^ (M CO 1 1 O OT 1 1^ O ts — c>< CO 1 1 to — 1 s^ -< ■*! en ^ ^-4 ^^ ■ f m 1 1 e>t s^i 1 i^ n f ^ o o ira lie: 1 to ■4^ 3 ^m w '"' 1^ o d 05 C IM C5 »>. CO CO in 1 1 t.5 CO 1 to -O —* 30 ;? S>l \ \ C^ 1 — o C CO — o CJ N t^ —CO ■M ^ O CO CO r^ 1 f to 1 CO o o ^ 5 -H in O 1 .^ F, 1 CO — •V CO •3 1^ f^ -^ .00 — o •>♦< M to in 00 CO « i-o »n b* O CO !« 00 00 00 re CM « .— « 1 M CO IM 1 00 IM CO b- Of — O tOM in > fH-N ^ '"' W r^ HH = CO ;3 CO i-H o M e« o ^ o CO r: 1 c^j i^ ^^ 'A OJ 1 ■* 1 IM ^^ , *■«■■'' , 1 •« ^ , "l! tn 'C -3 sh vess s . . en boat rt en Oj X •rr Q.' Qj -^^ ited Kingdom . tish West Indie ng Demarara, nd Bermuda tish North Ami luding Newfoui hing Voyages , tish Vessels ited States Bril eign Vessels . eign West Indi States Britisli o eign open ditto e5 c -n - « "C ^ .-'C c o o ■ o tJM m p^n ^ Ci4 b ^ h VESSELS REGISTERED. 169 --1 The following is a return of the vessels registered at St. Andrew's in the year 1833, as compared with a similar return for 1832 : — Square rigged . 34 8040 tons 383 men. Craft .... 90 3023 do. 219 do. Total In 1832 124 11063 110 8817 602 525 Increase, 1833 . 14 2246 77 In 1830 there were forty ships, comprising 8718 tons ; built in the province, in 1831, 48 tons, 7649. A considerable whale fishery is now commencing by the province : from St. John's there are seven vessels, averaging 400 tons burthen, each of which proceed to the Pacific and Eastern Ocean for seals, sperm, and black whale oil. The number of vessels registered at New Bruns- wick, in the year ending January, 1833, was — two ships, tons, 889 ; eleven barques, tons, 5492 ; fifteen brigs, tons, 2791 ; four brigantines, tons, 477 ; one steam-boat, tons, 74 ; twenty-two schooners, tons, 1739. — Total tons, 11,465, of which fifty vessels of 10,404 tons were rerristered at St. John's, and five vessels, comprising li'bl tons at Miramichi. The shipping registered at St John's, New Bruns- wick,, subsequent to January, 1824, and also those actually in exi tence the 31i;t December, 1832, were — five ships, tons, 2196 ; twenty-four barques, tons, 10,386; sixty-one brigs, tons, 12,745; eight brigan- tines, tons, 1026; four steam-vessels, tons, 522; 157 schooners, tons, 77^3 ; fourteen sloops, tons, 691 ; seventy wood boats, tons, 572 — total at St. !'J k ' i ! >l 170 NEW BRUNSWICK. m ;;»' fMm I 1 ; ! E John's, 343 vessels, measuring tons, 41,114, and navigated by 1882 men ; ditto at Miramichi, thirty- nine vessels, tons, 270; men, 196. — Grand total, vessels, 382 ; tons, 43,822 ; men, 2708. At St. An- drew's, in January, 1832, it consisted of six ships and barques, tons, 1840, sixteen brigs, tons, 4416; seventy-four schooners, tons, 2219 ; — total, 96 ; tons, 7466. To these have subsequently been added about twelve square-rigged vessels. Coasting and fishin g trade for 1832 and 1833— 1 Coasting. Fishing. For bounty. Not for bounty. 1832 1833 No. Tons. ' Men. No. j T. ns. 1 Men. No. Tons. Men. 000 , 33010; 1430 550 34780' 1028 28 1 1280 35 1015 720 240 38 28 1380 ; 120 1048 1 116 1 Value of trade. — The following oflScial table I de- rived from the manuscripts furnished by the Colonial Office to the Board of Trade. » Imports (valued in sterling money). Exports (valued ii ; sterling money). From From From Total To To To Total Great British Forei^ni value of (ireat British Foreign value of Britain. Colonies States. Imports ' Uritain. Colonies States. Fxports.l 1 £• £. £. £. £. £. ,€. t'. 18221 130432 75012 54484 20(i528 200873 54805 10499 272177 1823| ... «<• ... 303228 • •* • ■* t • • 287202 18241 ... ... 514557 • *• * * • *• • 402043 1825' 440!)51 182278 74580 094815 439484 44910 1 7580 501941 ' 1820, 300275 170002 (i8()95 541372 330289 120272 35(i95 492258 1828 295250 222923 222923 0-133)1 24)753 188903 24138 457138 1829 291590 211075 211075 038070 .^71238 2)5324 27057 514219 . 1830 285871 200100 200100 09;!501 335)32 201)02 31013 570307 1 1331 301729 224005 224005 003870 200247 139404 21007 427318 ; 1822 1823 1825 1820 1828 \ i ■ III Total value of I Kxiiorts.' I_ ' i £. I 272177 I 287202 ; 4(i2()43 501941 ' 492258 I 45 71. 'is ! 514219 , 570307 : 427318 TRADE. 171 Trade of New Brunswick, year ending January, 1833— Imports in value. From, and the produce of the } United Kingdom . . ^ From B. possessions in Africa From ditto in N. America From British West Indies From United States . . . From St. Domingo . . . Total Imports £590488 Do. Exports £411572 The principal articles of export for a series of years. Exports in value. 291293 To ditto . £285671 G050 To ditto . 5528 1-19810 To ditto . 01141 51(J49 To ditto . 38108 8G4G4 To ditto . 20704 5210 Dried, 1 Dried, Masts and Spars. Timber. Picivled, & Stiiokod ! 2 Masts and Spars. Timber. Pickled, & Smoked \^ Fisli. K-l Fish. 1822 No. To;.s. Value. 1829 No. Tons, V;ilue. 7709 24711!) £li)27 5772 190645 £27415 1823 4009 23940(; 1 1830 4)04 232748 2637U 1825 3008 388;,95 21218 1 i 1831 2:20 187166 29980 1826 6857 299205 21576 I 1 1832 1828 1 5931 2.32412 .:ui90 i i 1833 As values are extremely deceptive, I g-ive the an- nexed account of the (juantities of exports from the capital of New Brunswick, which, it will be remem- bered, comprises only a part of the trade of the whole province. The data are from returns to the House of Assemblv, 1834. The whole trade of the province for eight years \)i shown in the followincr Custom House returns : — i 'I r !(i 172 NEW BRUNSWICK. ta H >• 'A < C K IT X o o i-i o (« H » o: o !/! H Cj O P. w M u E: u X n & ^ S § ; c rf ^ . c ^ 5) i;i »»•-•'?) — i, c -r 'C 'i' 5 T C:i r, c. i, .o •>: jc •?■ c o « o ir. o =. «, 01 , c C, ri — c I , f^ 0< 'gi^' 55 ic^ CI rH ^ I I I rici'fi^cr:-. -I'OCO'-cxvim; rt ic — ■ - 01 ^ ■/-. ?» io ;:; 01 ^ -f ii< * r" . « -■ o , , c. ct. -■ 5. ■« >^ » ci -' err -< . ■; — :o5)04;o-i^,CTJ< C»o -;Cil c! oll'-'C^*-^ f- etO) (51 s? CO ■— " c t?5 1>- "5^ >. "" 'i r- o !-• X r; in c^ y: T iO O M CO C*^ en ^ LTj 'O o ^ "51 1^ 'O ' ^ c* '^ G^ w^ ^ ?^ o ' •C — ' X - t-- : -> r. :/3 rj o »* c; rn f'- .* -^ ,1-* -=; O ^ O T. -. I- :o ^ '« . C. 1^ CO G» u- $^j -^ X CO rr — — .-- iv-i, I CO I I I I ■-n'-< o C4'~rrt a* I ' I a ■o on ^ 5, :': ^-. — :'■. I - tr, c, T 'r ^ -t; >; , ^. ^ - - *- 4T^^ •-''.0^ -^ O^ < I-- c IP — (M t« tn -- in ov-p t^ o J. 01 ^ 'c c< O) '•"• X 5; "T , —I COrt 0» I I I l^'liSo- ^!§i I 8 111 •j5 c n 2 T "^ - f ~ f X 01 01 = ei o '3 X :? -c - 1^ •-- -• -I- — '^-- -■ — •- ^t-n 'c OJ •-" CO CO do 01 o -< I I I I I I C4 01 o» to <>. ►» i mill Hi .5 0% « 1 >1 3 a a c lO H §1 1 1 S t»« o a .2 0S < a u c K M I U a; Q EXPORTS. S ■fell lilili I li'sri I ^ 1 1 1 1 r d- ■* ji ci e-j t /2 I I «>. m >j< s< I I I « I I I tCI^ I- 1 1 1 1 i OOOO C> dOOO -rOo-t* H; l-'X «s; «^ r^ c o C", ^ 01 CO Q o •*- '^ t n « 'O 01 '-^ 01 r; 'OCCO 01 1- ' foS 03 con — -3T ccoTi o— 2. S '_; ^ I , - ^> =• I- CO , , c 5< r/ J , s rt , , •<• I y I oTrl I IS*^ - I 1*''"^ I =i-M I I-- I as *- =^ r:; '^"^1 =^ o 00 c o c/; 'o '3 05 0-0 o o o go *rt p ^ — r; "^1 — • r*, o .CO . -c -. '^^ "o c'5 a. ^'J^ 5 tc t-^ o -^ Q ^ •t-.*, ^ 'o I -'^ -, ) o h- '— -M ij< J?, I-- I I I I 1 1 ,. 'rcoxi.oo C-^ 00)— — •fr-^O^OCOOlCiCO x= ::>c;-io .cc . c JJ-'O-. -x oino c = •■": coc o ■■•^ -f y — — I K ? I * I- ^> -- so CO X .2:^^-^— c35-rt ^rt 173 3 J .S J ~ E s S .S c"5 i_ Ci • , CJ • ' U ^"3 ^ k> •S^^^ 1 M o i »■ ^ c. s5£?2 -3 ii .^ V, i: ■.- = s V- V) _ Cj w ^ 7zSt; IISW (S x<;sh ^ s - - '^ §1311111 1 II. .1 .i! . I i m ';■ f f I ti I IH 174 NEW BRUNSWICK. I ' ii ' I »" I i Staple proditce. — It will be evident from the foregoing statement, that the staples of the province are timber and fish, agriculture being yet in its in- fancy. According to a calculation made in 1833, the value of saw-mills and mill property in New Brunswick, was — e , o , 1 1 ** re c -i C ot^»'^^**.o M i-i X o ri JO o = -^ 'o o OJ C<3 C^ -« N CO -^ ™ n CO 3^-2 ■ 'X '^ P r- CO i c 1 t« S ij u o ( "^"^l^- I W ir O M lO O O « 1^ O o . CO JO lO ^« 1* O lO O l>« o "^ (U j; re &fl ^j r-i t^ o o »i^ X c^^ tf^ -p o ""l « 2 — " o a, 00 oT CO C-! o" cT « if^" 3» e>f 2 c -3 *- .S* •i:-j ? sJ » e>j e>< CO -™ — o> c^ S 5>l 1 « . re .-S «-3 ^ ^ 1 B- Si qua nibe the oooooooooo o ooooo;! =;zco c ^|J '^ t: P3 *: ;j = = = C: = = = =. = Ji lo o ■=' I-; o =' =' = o o" o o" ^ r" -^ 3 O -i* <= = ri o o _ = c '-: = •f rt t; oj "^ '^ tl CO O C-. :/. -O -O "^ c-1 C-. 3 CO E °^ « .->COO)COC>4>r5-r!S vr_ *- u u c £ 'J' = 15 5 :: = 2 V- cooooooooo o ■ c o = CO ... 1^ o c; = o CO 5^ 1-^ aC ir; o Jj^r-r in ti^ ..o O ^ -r 'O ■/;' !;' f' 3o' Cs' "♦•' M E - .5 ^ - :: S = CO -^ >— — I- <3 — CO fa c o •[B3(X JfUIAVBS JOJ C5Ot>.c0O'-:r^O'. x©;^^ AGRICULTURE, &C. 175 Of agricultural stock, the number of horses are estimated at 12.000; of horned cattle, 87,000; of hogs, Go j of sheep, 105,000; while the number of acres of land under cultivation is about half a mil- lion. It is proposed to remit all quit-rents due pre- vious to the midsummer of 1831, but which had not been claimed. A commutation is then offered by the Crown, at sixteen years' purchase, to all persons who may redeem them before midsummer 1 834 : to those who may redeem after that period, and an- terior to 1836, a commutation of eighteen years was offered, and twenty years' purchase to all who might redeem subsequently to that period, with the option of purchasing the quit- rents unredeemed, after the manner in which the land tax is redeeming in Eng- land. Heretofore grain and provisions have been imported ; but it is to be hoped that New Bruns- wick is now become an exporting country for the necessaries of life. One of the finest grains in the colony is termed " tea wheat," and derives its name from its origin being a few grains of that valuable gramina found in a corner of a tea chest received from China. And it is but justice to add, that the recent improvement in the agriculture and cattle of the colony is mainly owing to the exertions of Sir Howard Douglas, the late able Lieutenant-Governor of the province. / o 1 li ft -',;.. I 176 NEW BRUNSWICK. Natuuk and Value of Puoi'kut\ annually created in New Itrunswick, and, if not consumed, con- verted into Mov ;i'ile or Immoveable Property': — Animal food for 1(>0,000 mouths, at 200 lbs. cacli j)fr Jinnuni, at id. per pound ,£333,333 Fish for 100,000 mouths, at 150 lbs. each per aiumm, at 1 kil. \)er i)ound 93,750 llread and other vegetable ' r 10(M)00 mouths, at 3d. per day for each 450,200 Butter, milk, cheese, and egf,s, for 100,000 mouths, at 1 tl. per day for each 152,083 Luxuries — viz. wines, spirits, ale, tea, coffee, sugar, &c. for 100,000 mouths, at 3^/. each i)er day .... 45(i,250 Food for horses, cows, &c. 300,000, at 1/. each .... 300,000 Clothes and furniture worn out for 100,000 mouths, at 1/. each 300,000 Domestic manufactures, &c. ainiually produced. . . . 300,000 Income from business, or profits on professions ., 1,000,000 Waste by fire, loss, bad seasons, &c 60,000 Total animal pro luction of property . . •• £3,441, (Jf»T» VALUE OF MOVEABLE PROPERTY. Horses, 12,000 at 10/. each £120,000 Horned Cattle, 00,000, at 5/. each 450,000 Sheep, 120,000, at 1 /. each 120,000 Swine, «0,000, at 1/. each «0,000 Poultry 75,000 House furniture, &c 1,000,000 CI nhing and e Arable land, 500,)M)0 acres, at 51. per acre 2,500,000 Land occupied, but untilled, 3,000,000 acres, at II. per acre 3,000,000 Land not granted . 13,000,000 acres, at 5,v. per acre 3,250,0(H> lloads, canals, dy' bridges, wliarfs, itc 1,000,000 Forts, gaols, c'' barracks, &c 500,000 Manufactorii > ries, &c HOO.OOO Total ini ^^abk property £11,500,000 Total moveable and immoveable €10,575,000 New roads are making in every direction : the most important highway is that which runs from Halifax, in Nova Scotia, to Quebec, and which tra- verses New Brunswick diagonally from the city of St. John, and nearly parallel to the river on the west side, and which is passable for carriages to fourteen miles above Fredericton. The following are the distances : — from Quebec to Halifax, through New Brunswick, from Point Levi to the Portage, 1 10 miles ; across the Portage to Lake Timiscovata, 'M) miles ; to the Forks of Madawaska, 40 miles ; to the Great Falls, 40 miles ; to Fredericton, 1*24 miles ; to St. John's, New Brunswick, 79 miles ; to Halifax, Nova Scotia, 89?; miles. Religion, Education, and the Press. — The reader will, I fear, be prepared for a paucity of in- formation on these interesting heads, when observing NOVA SCOTIA. N IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V ^ <^''!' 4lo ^ '^ 1.0 I.I 1.8 1-25 1.4 III 1.6 ^ 6" ' Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ,.v .V^. C/j 178 NEW BRUNSWICK. the meagre attention which has been paid to other more ostensibly, but less intrinsically, valuable sub- jects. Religion. — The Established Church is within the diocese of the Bishop of Nova Scotia, and under the government of an archdeacon with twenty-six cler- gymen (there are twenty- six churches), to whose support the Society for Propagating Christian Know- ledge largely contribute. Of the Established Church of Scotland there are five pastors ; of the Romish Church, a bishop and twelve priests ; of the Presby- terian Church of Nova Scotia, three ; of the Wes- leyan Missionaries, fifteen ; and of the Baptists, sixteen. The proportion of the religious persuasion to each is not known. Education. — In New Brunswick, as in our other colonies, the schoolmaster is now abroad ; grammar schools, partly supported by legislative aid, are in active operation in several districts, and an excellent college has been established under the paternal auspices of Sir Howard Douglas at Fredericton, termed King's College: 6,000 acres of contiguous excellent land are appropriated for the use of this noble institution, which has the power of allowing the matriculation of students, without subscribing to the thirty-nine articles, except on taking degrees in divinity for the Church of England. Schools on the Madras system are established in every parish, with a legislative allowance of 20/. each ; they are under the superintendance of the Governor and Board of Trustees. There are also grammar schools in each county, with upwards of 200 pupils. Several SOCIAL STATE. 179 L to other able sub- ithin the under the '^-six cler- to whose m Know- ;d Church e Romish le Presby- the Wes- Baptists, persuasion our other grammar id, are in a excellent paternal redericton, contiguous ise of this )f allowing scribing to degrees in ichools on ery parish, they are rernor and nar schools Is. Several excellent private seminaries exist in different parts of the province. Press — Of newspapers there are about eight, viz. four newspapers in St. John — Courier, Observer, City Gazette, and Colonist. One at St. Andrews — Herald. Two at Fredericton — Royal Gazette and Watchman. One at Miramichi — Gleaner. Social State. — New Brunswick is one of the most thriving and most peaceable of our North American colonies ; although it may be said to be but of yesterday, compared with Lower Canada or Nova Scotia. The strides which it has made in social wealth and happiness are exceedingly great : it is on this account that I feel more grievously the almost total absence of statistical information. The province contains upwards of 17,000,000 acres : of this about 3,000,000 acres are granted. We may therefore estimate 10,000,000 acres of good land in the province untilled and ungranted ; a fact sufficient of itself to show the advantages which New Bruns- wick offers to the industrious and skilful emigrant : and I have no doubt the New Brunswick Land Com- pany will materially aid in developing the numerous resources of this valuable section of the British empire. It It N 2 BOOK IV. PRINCE EDWARD'S ISLAND. CHAPTER I. GKOGRAPHICAL POSITION, AREA, AND HISTORY, ETC. :!! ! Prince Edward's Island (formerly called St. John's) is situated in a kind of recess or bay of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between the parallels of 46" and 47^ 10' north latitude, and of the meridians 62° and 65 ' west of Greenwich, bounded on the west and south l)v New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, from which it is separated by Northumberland Strait (the breadth across the strait between Traverse am pe Tour- mentine is only nine miles) ; on the e; - by Cape Breton Isle, from which it is distant twenty-seven miles ; and on the north by the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Magdalen Islands. In lengtii Prince Edward's Island is about 140 miles on a line through the centre of the territory ; in its greatest breadth 34 (in some places not more than 15 miles), with an area of 1,360,000 acres, or 2134 square miles, most D. y, ETC, . John's) I Gulf of and 47^ and 65 ' nd south which it breadth pe Tour- by Cape ity- seven Lawrence Edward's ough the eadth 34 with an lies, most GENERAL HISTORY. 181 favourably situate for commerce, agriculture, or fisheries. Charlotte town, the capital of Prince Edward's Island, is distant from the Land's End in England 2280 miles ; from St. John's, Newfoundland, 550 ; from St. John's, New Brunswick, by sea 360 (across Nova Scotia) ; from Halifax, by the Gut of Canso, 240; (by Pictou 140 miles), from Pictou, 40; from Miramichi, 120 ; from Quebec, 580 ; and from Cape Ray, the nearest point of Newfoundland, 125 miles. General History. — This island was discovered by Cabot, on the 24th June, 1497, being the first land seen after his departure from Newfoundland. It was named by this celebrated navigator St. John ; and not being formally claimed or settled by Eng- land, the French seized upon it as a part of the ter- ritory of New France, or Canada; and, in 1663, leased or granted it, together with the Magdalen, Bird, and Biron Islands, to the Sieur Doublett, a captain in the French navy, to be held as a feudal tenure of the company of Miscou. The island remained as a fishing station to the Sieur and his associates (two fishing companies), until after the treaty of Utrecht in 1715, when it began to be colonized ; and in 1758 there was said to have been 10,000 settlers ; but this is doubtful, as the French Supreme Government at Quebec dis- couraged colonization everywhere, except around the strong fortifications which they had erected in va- rious parts of their North American dominions. When the English possessed themselves of Nova Scotia, many French settlers took refuge here, or f if" I 182 PRINCE EDWARD 8 ISLAND. '/ i * li « ill $ located themselves for the purpose of fitting out pri- vateers against the English. In 1758, on the capitulation of Louisbourg, Prince Edward's Island, which had formed the granary of that fortress, was taken possession of by the English, when a considerable number of English scalps were found hung up in the French Governor's house, the island having been for the two preceding years the head-quarters of the Mic Mac Indians. At the conclusion of the peace in 1763, on the arrangement of the conquests made from France, this island, together with Cape Breton Isle, were annexed to the government of Nova Scotia. A great number of the Acadian French on the island were still so hostile to the English, that they were in- cluded in the order to remove those of Nova Scotia. A large number were in consequence shipped off to the neighbouring continent, to the southern colonies, and to France ; in which latter place they were ill received, and upbraided for their continual hosti- lities, which had led to the total extinction of the French dominion in North America. Prince Ed- ward's island was included in the general survey of the British empire in America in 1764, and which the commencement of the first American war put a stop to on the continent. The survey of the islaijd being completed in 1766, various schemes for its cultiva- tion and settlement were proposed : amongst others, the Earl of Egmont, then first Lord of the Admiralty, proposed settling it on a feudal plan (his Lordship being lord paramount), with a certain number of baronies to be held of him ; each baron to erect a ( DIVISION BY LOTTERY. 183 castle or strong hold, to maintain so many men at arms, and, with their under tenants, to perform suit and service, according to the custom of tlie ancient feudal tenures of Europe. Upon the rejection of the Earl of Egmont's impracticable scheme, it was determined to grant the whole island to individuals on certain conditions prescribed by the then 'loard of Trade and Plantations ; but the number of appli- cations being so great, it was thought proper that the different townships should be drawn by way of lottery, which was accordingly done, with the ex- ception of two townships * : some tickets being a prize of a whole township ; others half, and others a third ; many of the fortunate holders being officers of the army and navy, who had served during the preceding war. The conditions of settlement were — twenty- six townships ^ to pay Gs. per annum for each 100 acres ; twenty-nine ditto to pay 4s. for ditto ; and eleven townships, 2s. for ditto : and the grantees were to settle their lands in the proportion of one settler to each 200 acres, within ten years from the date of their grants, otherwise the same were to be void. The mandamus to the Governor of Nova Scotia^, issued for each township, to the holders of the for- u 1 These were Nos. 40 and 59, then partly occupied by a fishing company, with the consent of Government. 2 Each township contains about 20,000 acres. ' Prince Edward's Island was then annexed to the Nova Scotia government, and it was necessary for the government thereof to pass the grants to the holders of the tickets, or to their heirs and assigns. I'.fl 184 PRINCE EDWARD S ISLAND. !'■ i tunate lottery tickets, under the King's sign manual, bear date for the greater part August, 1767; and thus, with exceptions scarcely worthy of note, the whole island, containing 1,360,000 acres, was given away in one day ! Whatever might be the good effect of such an arrangement at the present period, when so many respectable individuals are seeking to better their condition in our colonies, the result in 1768 was any thing but satisfactory or use- ful to the island : many (says an able witness on this subject in 1 806) * had never any intention of expend- ing their time or money in settling the island. Some had not the means to undertake what they promised ; and most of them merely made use of their interest to obtain what was a saleable commodity. The mandamuses were therefore very soon brought into the market, and at first sold for 1,000/. each ; but, as the supply soon exceeded the demand, they fell to half that amount; the greater number of those which were sold being also purchased by a few indi- viduals on speculation. With the idea of promoting the settlement of the island, a large majority of the proprietors petitioned the king that the colony should be erected into a separate government from Nova Scotia; and, in order to defray the expense of an establishment, they offered to commence paying the one half of their quit rents on May 1 769, which, by the terms of settlement, was only to become pay- ' John Stewart, Esq., to whose vaUiable observations I am indebted for much information, as I am also to his namesakes, Messrs. R. and D. Stewart, of Great Russell-street. 'I'll I Hill ,ii} 1 FORMATION OP A GOVERNMENT. 185 able on Michaelmas day, five years after the date of their respective grants, while the other half was to have been postponed for twenty years. Government, desirous of promoting the settlement of the island, acceded to the proposal. In 1770 a governor and other officers arrived, but the quit rents paid in the following five years were not sufficient to defray their salaries for two years. At this time there were not more than 150 families and five proprietors on the island. After ten years little was done : a few con- scientious and enterprising persons * acted up to the terms of their conditions ; but the greater number shamefully neglected the duties which they had un- dertaken, thus throwing the burthen on those who were the least deserving of bearing it. If all the grantees had acted together, the result would have been good — a fine and thriving settlement would have been almost immediately formed : but, as it happened, nothing could be more unfavourable for the colony. Those who located themselves were almost ruined in endeavouring to sustain a load so unjustly imposed on them : in some instances poor settlers were landed in different parts of the island, afar from any other inhabitants, and without provi- sions or preparations. Many, therefore, abandoned the place in disgust, and spread unfavourable reports of the colony, thus retarding its settlement. When the island was erected into a separate go- vernment, the representative of the sovereign was * Among the number who thus acted was Sir James Mont- gomery, then Lord Chief Baron of the Scotch Court of Exchequer. 186 PRINCE EDWARD S ISLAND. authorised to summon a general assembly, as soon as he should deem the island sufficiently settled for the same. Accordinfjly, in 1773, the first represen- tative legislature met, as in tiie other colonies, and has ever since continued to sit. In 1776, it being found that the few proi)rietor8 who paid their quit- rents did not contribute a sufficient sum to pay the expenses of the government, and the governor being unwilHng to proceed against the defaulters, who were generally persons of rank and influence in England, an application was made to parliament for an annual grant to defray the civil expenditure, which application was complied with. In November 1775, two armed American cruizers, taking advantage of the defenceless state of the island, landed at Charlotte Town, plundered it, and carried off the acting Governor, a member of the council, and the Surveyor-General ; but on the Com- mander proceeding to the American head- quarters, they were rebuked by General Washington, told they had ' done those things which they ought not to have done, and left undone what it was their duty to have done,' and dismissed their commands ; while the prisoners were instantly set free, with many polite expressions of regret for their sufferings, and the plundered proj)erty was all honourably restored. It is a pleasing duty to record so magnanimous an act, which is quite in unison with the noble charac- ter of Washington. It would occupy too much of my rapidly contract- ing allotment of space to detail the various measures respecting the quit-rents which took place during !•! QUIT-RENT PUOCKEDINOS. 187 y, as soon settled for ; represen- onies, and 6, it being their quit- to pay the srnor being liters, who iifluence in lianient for xpenditure, in cruizers, :ate of the 2red it, and fiber of the n the Com- id- quarters, n, told they ight not to their duty ands ; while with many Ferings, and )ly restored, laniraous an oble charae- ly contract- lus measures )lace during the administrations of Lieutenant-Governor Pater- son and Fanning. His late Royal Highness the Duke of Kent (whose name the island now bears), while Commander-in-Chief in Nova Seotia, paid the most marked attention to the colony, organized the formation of some provincial troops, cavalry and infantry, and the erection of some butteries for the better protection of the town and harbour of Char- lotte Town ; the result of which was, that during the war the colony was unmolested by any enemy. It was at this period that the name of the island was changed from St. John's to Prince Edward's, partly in compliment to one who, whether in the colonies or in England, ever proved himself the most generous philanthroi)ist ; and partly because the old name of the island was found very inconvenient, from several places in North America having the same appellation, through which letters, &c. fre- quently never reached their right destination. In 1801 the arrears of quit- rents had amounted to 59,1G2/. ; in many instances more than the town- ships would now sell for, if put up by auction. Government, therefore, determined to accept of a moderate composition, which should fall lightest on those who had made the most efforts to settle their lands. With these views the townships, in quit-rent arrears, were thrown into five classes : first, those which had the full number of people required by the terms of settlement were only required to pay four years' quit-rent, in lieu of all arrears from 1769 to 1801 ; secondly, those with half the population, five years' quit-rent, in lieu of all demands ; thirdly, f 188 PRINCR RDWAHD S ISLAND. those with from a quarter to half, nine years' quit- rents ; fourthly, those with less than a quarter of the required population (100 souls on each township, the area being 20,000 acres), twelve years' quit- rents ; and fifthly, those which were totally waste and uninhabited were called on to pay fifteen years' quit-rents in lieu of all due from 1769 to 1801, i. e. less than half of their dues. The liberal terms of this composition, by freeing the land from heavy claims, had an almost instantaneous efi'ect on the prosperity of the island, which now made rapid strides in population and social comfort. Some proprietors, it is true, did not avail them- selves of this commutation, and waited for easier terms ; it became, therefore, necessary to proceed against them, and in 1804 judgment was obtained by the Receiver- General of the quit-rents against ten townships, five half-ditto and one-third ditto, which were escheated to the Crown for non-payment of the quit-rents. It is much to be regretted that the quit- rents were not annually exacted, instead of thus being allowed to accumulate ; had such been the case the settlement of the island would have been more rapidly extended, as every man holding land would endeavour to make the quit-rents as little burthen- some as possible, by improving its culture instead of leaving it a useless waste. The House of Assembly of the colony, at the close of the session of 1833, moved and carried by twelve to two, an address to his Majesty, offering to provide the whole civil expenses of the island ; and for the purpose of raising a fund to secure a moderate per- tirs' quit- uurter of lownship, irs' ([uit- lly waste en years' 801, i. e. terms of tm heavy ct on the ide rapid ail them- for easier proceed btained by gainst ten to, which ent of the t the quit- d of thus n the case been more and would J burthen- instead of ,t the close by twelve to provide ind for the derate per- PHV8ICAL ASPEfT. 189 munent civil list, the representatives of the people propose to abolish tbt* system of (juit-rcnts entirely, and substitute instead an annual tax on land (at Mic rate of 4*. (jd. for every hundred acres in the town- ship), to go into operation in four years from the date of the address, when the ])resent land assess- nient will expire. The Assembly thinks that an annual tax on unimproved lands will compel those who have large tracts now lying waste, either to improve them, or sell them to those who will do so. CHAPTER II. PHYSICAL ASPECT — TEnRITOUIAL DIVISIONS — COAST LINE — CHIKP TOWNS — OEOLOOY — SOIL AND CLIMATE. The general appearance of Prince Edward's Island is extremely picturesque, though destitute of those bold and, in many instances, romantic features that characterise several parts of the adjacent continent ; in general the surface rises as in New Brunswick, into gentle undulations, without any absolutely flat country, but no where reaching the elevation of moun- tains ; the principal high lands being a chain of hills, traversing the island nearly north and south from De Sable to Grenville Bay ; with this exception there are few inequalities to interfere with the ordinary agriculture, to the pursuit of which even a sailor is attracted, by the rich verdure which clothes the country to the water's edge. I \ 190 PRINCE EDWARD S ISLAND. ! M If . W^Wwi -i The north side of the island is peculiarly beautiful, the prospect in sailing along its shores, being varied with small and neat villages, cleared fai-ms, red head- lands, grassy downs, with a gentle diversity of hill and dale, and bays and rivers every where piercing the country, occasioning small lakes, which appear from the sea like so many verdant valleys. The position for being acted on by the strong tide waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, has naturally caused the island to be indented, and intersected by several bays, and creeks, and inlets, which are so numerous that there is scarcely any part of the terri- tory more than eight miles distant from tide water. Of the numerous harbours the prmcipal is that on which the capital, Charlotte Town, is built, situate on the south-east side of the island, at the bottom of Hillsborough Bay, and at the confluence of the three rivers — Hillsborough, York, and Elliott. The haven is one of the most secure in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, though not more than half a mile wide at the entrance ; it has several batteries pro- tecting it, and if occasion required, could be placed in a situation to defy any attack from seaward. The situation chosen for the town is good, as it rises gradually to a moderate height above the sea, and has a maritime communication, by means of the three rivers before mentioned, with a considerable portion of the island. The Hillsborough river, or rather an ' let of the ocean, flowing past the town to the eastward, with eight fathoms, so that the largest ships may anchor close to the capital, and ! ■ 'I beautiful, ng- varied red head- ity of hill : piercing ;h appear trong tide naturally sected by ch are so • the terri- ide water. is that on It, situate bottom of ■ the three the Gulf of alf a mile teries pro- be placed vard. ^ood, as it je the sea, ans of the onsiderable h river, or the town ;o that the capital, and PICTURESQUE BEAUTIES. 191 vessels of 200 tons go up the Hillsborough river fourteen miles above Charlotte I'own. In fact each of the rivers, Hillsborough, York, and Elliott, have a sufficient depth of water for the largest vessels for several miles, where they may lie secure from all winds, and the tides are so strong as to enable ships to work out and in against a contrary wind ; the rise at full and change being nine feet, and at neap four to five, with soundings of soft mud or strong clay. The town appears from the harbour to great advantage, the streets are broad, and regularly laid out at right angles, with fiv^ or six vacancies for squares ; most of the private houses have neat gar- dens attached, and together with the public buildings, such as the Court House (in which the Courts of Judicature, as well as the Legislative Assembly, sit), the Episcopal Church, the Ne*: Scots Church, the Roman Catholic and Methodist Chapels, excellent barracks, &c. gives a decidedly prepossessing aspect to the infant capital of this interesting colony. From the higher part of Charlotte Town there is a splendid prospect ; the blue mountains of Nova Scotia appear in the distance ; several fine branching sheets of water around ; homesteads, partial clearings, and grassy glades, intermingled with forests and groves of various trees — principally the birch, beech, maple, and spruce fir ; well cultivated farms range along the serpentine banks of the diflerent rivers, the edges of which are fringed with marsh grass — the tout ensemble affording a landscape, which in natural beauties may vie with any in the Old World. hi I! ;» U <\i 192 PRINCE EDWARD S ISLAND. 'ill I i 1 r 1 : i''i' r^ i ; 'i •■' 1 , 1 1 'i .■i f. In order to give a clear idea of the island, we will now speak of it according to its division into coun- ties, viz. — Prince's, Queen's, and King's counties. Prince's County, containing five parishes — namely, North (63,000 acres), Egmont (80,000 acres), Hali- fax (100,000 acres), Richmond (160,000 acres), and St. David's (124,000 acres), and the first nineteen townships, together with numbers 2.5, 26, 27, and 28 (see map), comprising an area of 467,000 acres ' on the western section of the island. This county is remarkable for several fine harbours ; two on the north shore are particularly valuable, as Prince Ed- ward's Island forms a deep curve, in which it is dangerous for vessels to be caught in a stiff north- east wind, as the points of the island east or west cannot then be cleared, and a ship must either run on shore, or seek one of the large-barred havens, when two or three high seas will cast them over into smooth and safe water. Richmond bay is the largest harbour on the north side of the island, it is barred with a sand bank, over which there is from twelve to fifteen feet water ; from its wide entrance and great extent, being nine miles wide, and ten miles deep, the centre part is of course unsheltered, but there are several inlets perfectly safe from all winds, with from three to four fathoms good anchorage. There are six beautiful islands in the bay, three of which have an area of 500 acres good land. Seven townships, containing 140,000 acres, ab't on this bay, which has the advantage of a safe * A town jilot is resLTVcd for each county. ! ii I! ENGLISH SUPERSTITIONS. 193 inland water comiru dion along the coast, by means of Cavendish 1 i unnel, with the fine harbour of Holland Bay to the north-west. Richmond Bay, and the adjacent coast, is well situate for the cod fishery, and it has afibrded several cargoes of timber for the English markets. A good deal of the adjacent land belongs to Mr. Sullivan and Sir James and Mr. Robert Montgomery. Mr. Stewart, who resides at Prince Town, is famed for his hospitality. The settlers are principally emigrants from Cantyre in Scotland, who settled in the island with Judge Stewart's family in 1771, and who retain many of the habits and superstitions that were for- merly so prevalent in their native country, while the music, the songs, the tales of the Covenanters, and the ghost stories of • Kirk AUoway' have all the freshness of yesterday ; indeed, it is not a little remarkable that many of the ancient customs and traditionary stories, now passing away, and nearly forgotten, in England, Ireland, and Scotland, are religiously remembered and preserved in our co- lonies ^ But to proceed with the description of the coast — ii ' This circumstance is not confined to our North American colonies ; I found it equally remarkable in Southern Africa, on the very extreme frontier of the Cape of Good Hope territory ; — among the Cornish miners in New South Wales, and the semi-civilized Connaught men in Van Diemen's Land. God- win's Lives of the Necromancers demonstrate the late period at which witchcraft was punished with fire and faggot in New England ; and the evil eye is still piously abhorred in the rural districts of nearly every part of North America. NOVA SCOTIA. O PRINCE EDWARD S ISLAND. Holland Harbour, or Cascumpec, is the westernmost harbour on the north side ; the sands form a bar as at Richmond Bay, and run off about a mile and a half. As this haven affords a safe retreat for weather- beaten ships, I give the following instructions for making and entering it. The harbour is easily known by the sand-hills which run along the coast : about half-way between the entrance of Richmond Bay and Holland Harbour is a sand-hill, much higher than the rest, near Conway inlet. Holland Bay may be known by its being at the west end of all the range of sand-hills. There is good anchorage close to the bar, in from five to eight fathoms. There is eighteen feet of water on the bar, and it is not diffi- cult for a stranger to run in with a ship not drawing more than twelve feet of water, there being two leading marks, painted white, bearing west by north by compass : a vessel of this draught, keeping the two marks in one, with a leading wind, might run in with perfect safety ; but as these marks will carry a vessel over the south tail of the northern sand, ves- sels drawing more than twelve feet should not venture without a pilot. There is a buoy on the end of the south sand ; between that and the tail of North Shoal is eighteen feet of water. Vessels entering the port, drawing more than twelve feet of water, should hot bring the marks in one, till they are within this buoy. The soundings off the harbour are regular, and the ground clear. Ships coming to anchor off the bar will have a pilot come off. There is shallow water between the outer harbour and the inner harbour, on which is about fourteen w 1 >Jui. J' til i-tl HOLLAND BAY. 195 ernmost a bar as e and a .veather- ions for s easily le coast : ichmond :h higher Bay may f all the ige close There is not diiR- drawing zing two by north ing the ht run in 1 carry a and, ves- it venture id of the rth Shoal the port, lould hot thin this regular, inchor off harbour fourteen feet of water in common tides ; vessels generally load to thirteen feet in the inner harbour, and ccraplete their cargoes in the outer ; in the former they lie alongside a wharf at Hill's Town in four fathoms water, where they lie without any current, as in a dock ; in the outer harbour the tide runs strong at spring tides, but the water is smooth, the sea being broke off by the bar. The currents round the island are very irregular, frequently running many days along the North Coast from east to west, and at other times from west to east. The tides also in the north side ports are irregular, except at spring-tide, sometimes flowing for forty- eight hours, and at other times not three ; in common tides the water seldom rises more than two feet ; and in spring-tides (except in strong winds from the southward and eastward) not more than five feet. Holland Harbour is the most convenient part in the island for loading timber, where there is a very large quantity, — also a saw-mill for cutting plank and board. The variation of the compass, after passing Cape Breton to the westward, and about Prince Island, is eighteen degrees west. Mr. Hill, the proprietor of a large extent of the fine country around this bay, has made considerable efforts to improve it, and attract public attention. From Holland Bay to the north-west point (in 47° 7' north latitude) of the island, twenty-four miles, the coast is low and sandy ; as is also the case from North Cape, down towards the West Cape, on the south coast, which forms the western entrance of o 2 * If, i'l 196 PRINCE EDWARD S ISLAND. I ;« If I ,! »!: Egmont Bay, which is sixteen miles wide and ten feet deep, with dangerous shoals off its entrance, and only affording shelter in north, .)r north-east, or north-west winds. Egmont Bay is principally settled by French Acadians, whose simple habits and pas- toral life offer a strange contrast to the busy citizen of the Old World. As we proceed eastward, Halifax or Bedeque Bay is arrived at ; the bay itself is open and exposed to the south, but the harbour at Dunk River is well-sheltered, and there are a few ship-building establishments. Halifax and Richmond Bays nearly meet each other, and divide Prince Edward's Island into two parts — Wilmot and Webber Coves being not more than five miles apart. The land throughouu the county now described is in general good, and well watered, but it is as yet thinly settled, perhaps by reason of its distance from the capital, which is in the next district, or — Queen's Count]/, containing five parishes — namely, Grenville (111,580 acres), Charlotte (87,-300 acres'), Bedford (105, 000 acres), Hillsborough (8 2, 5 20 acres), and St. John's (100,000 acres), t'le whole com])rising 486,400 acres in the centre of the island. The north coast of this county is extremelj' pic- turesque, but possessing few harbours, except for schooners and small vessels, their names are suffi- ciently indicated on the map. The south shore con- tains Hillsborough Bay, and its numerous safe havens as already described. Tryon Village, nearly opposite Green Bay, or Bal de Verts, in Nova Scotia, is one of the most populous and cheerful places in the island. m t i KING S COUNTY. 197 and ten nee, and east, or y settled ind pas- Y citizen alifax or pen and Ilk River building; et each Into two u)t more 10 u I the and well rliaps by ich is in -namely, acres), 20 acres), mjirising Liely pic- :cept for ire suffi- lore con- fe havens opposite is one of le island. Along the Serpentine River, which winds through it, are several well cultivated farms : the harbour has a bar, which will only admit small schooners. King's County, on the east side of the island, is divided into four parishes — viz. East (100,000 acres), St. Patrick, (100,000 acres), St. George's (130.000 acres), and St. Andrew's (82,000 acres), the whole comprising 412,000 acres. The first, as its name signifies, occupies the whole Eastern point of the island, and is without a harbour on its north shore, which is called the district of the Capes, and is prin- cipally settled by people from the Hebrides or West of Scotland, who have cleared a large extent of country, and, owing to the abundance of sea weed and other marine manures, raise large and valuable crops of wheat, barley, &c. Colville, RoUo, and Fortune Bays, on its south-east coast, are small havens well settled along the shore. St. Patrick's parish has a good bay for small vessels on the north shore, called St. Peter's, about nine miles long, and with the surrounding country rapidly improving. St. George's parish has several good havens for small vessels on the south-east coast, but they are all more or less barred with sand. George Town, however, has an excellent harbour, free from danger, at the junction of three fine rivers. St. Andrew's parish has Murray Harbour and River in it — the former safe, but difficult of access : the soil around is good and excellent, and ships, brigs, and schooners are built here. It will be seen from the foregoing brief description s ** i *. j * •♦ ■» j»^f i im- .■^. mnm mt^, ^4.^ ^, ^^, 198 PRINCE EDWARD S ISLAND. 15 i f'i !ii how admirably adapted Prince Edward's Island is for carrying on an extensive fishery, while its rich soil yields with little trouble abundance of the best of animal and vegetable food. Geology. — Prince Edward Isle is a pastoral coun- try, — neither limestone, gypsum, coal, nor iron, have yet been discovered, but in many places the earth and rivulets are deeply impregnated with metallic oxides ; the soil is in general a light reddish loam — in some places approaching to a tolerably strong clay — in most districts more or less sandy, but where the latter inclines to a dark colour, it is very fruitful. Red clay for bricks, and white for common pottery purposes, are met with in abundance. The predo- minating rock is a reddish sand-stone, but occa- sionally, at intervals of several miles, a solitary block of granite is met with ; in fact, the whole island seems to have been left dry in latter ages by the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, which are evi- dently continually on the decrease. Climate — All who have ever visited the island can bear testimony to the salubrity of its climate, which is neither so cold in winter nor so hot in sum- mer as that of Lower Canada, while it is free from the fogs which rush along the shores of Cape Breton and Nova Scotia. One hundred years of age, with- out ever knowing a day's sickness, is frequent in the island ; the air is dry and bracing ; the diseases of the North American continent are unknown, and puny British emigrants attain, soon after their arrival, robust health and unwonted strength. No person ever saw an intermittent fever produced i : ;. i I "vLilli CLIMATE. 199 nd is for rich soil best of al coun- on, have he earth metallic 1 loam — rong clay ut where y fruitful. 1 pottery le predo- )ut occa- pary block [)le island 3S by the h are evi- on the island — pulmonary consumption, so frequent in north and central America, is seldom met with, — the greater proportion of the colonists live to old age, 90 to 100, and then die by a gradual decay of nature, — deaths between twenty and fifty are very rare — accidents even included, it has been estimated that not one person in fifty inhabitants dies through- out the year ; — industry always secures a comfortable subsistence, and encourages early marriages ; the women are often grandmothers at forty, and the mother and her daughters may each be seen with a child at the breast at the same time. Such is the happy condition of this simple and hospitable people, whose prospects are so far superior to that of their less fortunate brethren in England. The animal and vegetable kingdoms require no separate notices from those given under the Canadas. he island ! climate, »t in sum- free from pe Breton ige, with- ent in the iseases of own, and ir arrival. produced CHAPTER III. POPULATION — GOVERN. \ir.NT — FINANCES— COM MKUCE — EDU- CATION, &'C. — I'UOl'EllTY — SOCIAL STATE, &C. Ci P ;. We have no correct estimate of the progressive in- crease of the population ; when taken from the French the island is supposed to have contained 6,000 Aca- dians; a great number of whom were afterwards removed, as stated under Nova Scotia. In 1802 the number of inhabitants was — males, 10,644 ; females, 10,007; total, 20,671 : in 1822, males, 12,140: fe- males, 12,460 ; total, 24,600 : in 1825, males, 14,140 ; females, 14,460 ; total, 28,600. Scotchmen form more than one half of the whole population ; those from the Hebrides are best suited to the island. The Acadian French are estimated at about 5,000 ; but of the Mic-raac, or native Indians, once so numerous, there are probably not more than thirty families on the island. The two last censuses, viz. in 1827 and 1833, were as follows : — 2: 21 3i •A •J I I', 3 3 :i. 3( 3 3; 31 4i 4 4; 'is ,1'i POPULATION. 201 Cknsus of the Popitlation taken under the authority of the Acts Geo. IV. cap. 7. a.d. 18127 — and William IV. cap. 7. a.u. 1833. « I I 111 lft7 IICE — EDU- &C. essive in- le French 000 Aca- fterwards 1802 the ; females, .140: fe- i,14,140; nen form n ; those nd. The ; but of umerous, milies on 1827 and •J. ' 1 .Males in 1833. Feinalt's in 1S33. •n 1827. Is? a.,; ■n X J' ^■2 , Si iS2 Ik 111 S o li "3 s 1 41 "(3 "« g 2,, COO 1 107 9 227 138 9^ 232 459 148 135 283 176 2 .oi 35 1 87 47 39 86 173 72 61 1.33 40 ■■! 25 24 1 50 31 20 51 101 28 22 50 51 4 fl(i 38 4 98 36 35 71 169 50 42 92 77 ,") «() 58 • •■ 118 52 43 95 213 64 58 122 91 41 2(i 2 (iO 39 23 62 131 78 58 130 (•• 7 22 23 2 47 29 23 52 119 31 28 59 60 S 25 24 2 51 27 22 49 100 21 18 39 61 !' 12 7 ... 19 5 9 14 33 14 12 26 7 ID 10 8 1 19 7 10 17 36 21 21 42 ■ •> 11 5 64 120 275 110 95 211 64 14 107 72 8 187 104 70 180 307 167 166 333 34 1,-. 171 124 8 303 148 24 272 575 225 211 436 1.39 u; IM 05 4 213 100 90 196 409 184 147 331 78 17 228 199 17 444 197 194 391 835 3(i7 349 710 119 IS 174 iro II 304 197 192 389 753 385 328 713 40 li) 208 178 ;! 389 191 157 348 737 261 230 491 246 2i) 103 137 10 340 175 HO 315 655 222 183 405 250 21 Wi2 i,r2 17 311 158 142 300 Oil 245 212 457 1.54 22 52 52 8 112 50 53 109 221 57 49 100 115 23 141 132 9 285 144 119 263 548 114 121 2.35 313 24 280 245 13 547 265 loo 4,')5 1002 360 362 722 280 2,-. 103 74 5 182. 97 70 167 349 121 124 245 104 2() 111 no 20 241 101 113 214 455 199 175 374 81 27 117 77 12 200 89 79 168 374 118 ^Q, 214 160 2S 240 227 22 495 224 204 428 923 379 .341 720 203 2U 141 149 18 308 148 119 207 575 220 182 402 173 ;i() 40 33 2 84 51 24 75 159 45 51 96 63 .SI 00 84 7 181 81 86 107 348 105 124 229 119 ;i2 187 207 13 407 185 1H2 307 774 299 309 608 166 .33 141 123 19 283 122 116 238 521 180 136 316 205 34 340 275 28 043 324 303 627 1270 448 437 885 385 35 87 191 58 330 150 171 .321 657 238 222 400 197 SB 105 118 12 235 104 113 217 452 143 133 276 176 37 00 105 10 214 84 100 190 404 240 193 433 • •• 38 76 83 12 171 60 91 151 322 139 148 287 35 3.9 93 77 4 174 74 82 150 330 174 154 328 2 40 112 113 13 238 80 84 170 408 123 101 224 184 41 72 7G 12 160 71 87 158 318 143 126 269 49 42 96 08 15 179 84 95 179 358 132 133 ( 205 continu 93 ed.) 202 PRINCK KDWAUU B ISLAND. ciKNsus OF POPULATION — contltiued. „ ! \m ^ M 'i:! ill M '% „ •68 Charlotte Town 72 Prince Town TO 69 Charlotte Town lloyalty 73 Prince Town Royalty 77 70 GeofKe Town 74 Houghton Island 78 71 George Town Royalty 75 Panmure Island K'.istiff, Ifilau'i. St. i'eter's Island Governor's Island MulcK in 1833. I'VnmluB In 1833. i/i 1827. .2*« 411 t u a p. ill 1§- e5 i .! 1 k. I- ■a c ■/i rt is ■3 Is i CA a « 1 111 1061 (» 226 132; 115 247 463 161 174 335 128 41 IM, llDi 11 221 IM 126 210 464 265 230 495 ... 4.-) 12!», 13.I 6 26.S 122 112 231 502 126 137 263 239 4() 51; 6N 5 127 72 (i(i 138 2(i5 99 117 216 49 47 IHfit 183 14 3H3 I8ii< 192 372 755 323 302 625 130 4S I16{ L'iji 11 265 1261 121 250 515 219 204 423 92 •t!) 2111 19(1 21 ■152 2181 188 406 858 338 333 671 187 50 2151 206 20 III 209. 207 416 857 311 304 645 212' 51 4H, 43 2 93 W 38 78 171 6 6 12 1591 52 47l 53 2 102 72 41 116 218 93 97 190 28l 53 71 no 8 189 60i 70 130 319 146 114 260 5!t' 51 36 23 3 (i2 31 1 28 59 121 31 33 64 47i 55 102 73 13 188 S2 92 174 362 153 136 289 73 56 1621 105 10 277 125' 114 239 516 207 188 395 vn 57 273 21!) 25 517 286 266 552 1099 282 275 557 542 5H 167' 13.-) 13 315 MO 135 275 590 2 47 217 464 126 5!) 75, 03 10 17S 69 78 147 325 132 108 240 85 (iO 86 75 8 169 81 83 167 336 100 103 203 133 (>l 48l 50 7 114 62 55 117 231 106 92 198 33 i 62 !)4| 84 14 192 81 83 161 356 142 120 262 94 1 63 60| (13 4 127 73 56 129 256 99 74 173 83 1 64 lis 151 9 278 119 131 250 528 174 176 350 178 65 223 200 17 410 197 183 3 SO 820 290 281 571 249 6(i 17 10 27 13 h/ 23 50 2 2 4 46 67 20 39 ■3 71 26 22 48 119 ... ■ ... "id 13 10 23 39 14 22 36 3 75 » 3 4 ... 7 4 7 11 18 (i 6 12 ( 76* • •• 4 ... 4 *•• ■ •* ■ •• 4 3 • •■ 3 1 77« 10 5 ... 15 8 5 13 28 9 12 21 1 ' 78* G.tl. 4 5 1 10 5 4 9 19 8297 7820 1714 10840 7910 7542 15452 32292 11976 ' 11290 1 23206 8832 aOVKUNMKNT FINANCK. 203 27. Q . •o M 5? n ij ^^ 3 ^ \ 3 u "a b. 1^ P gss M H 128 71 335 :<() 4!)5 >*• M7 203 239 17 2Ui 40 102 025 130 iOi 423 02 t;i;j 071 187 104 045 212' (! 12 150: !)7 100 28i 114 200 i'liti :):i 04 47i 131) 2H'.) n\ 1S8 3!»5 1:M 275 557 542 217 404 120 108 240 85 103 203 133 !)2 198 33 120 202 04 74 173 83 17« 350 178 281 571 249 2 4 40 822 1C49 210 1!)1 424 152 75 150 29 • •• 155 si"] 144 22 30 3 6 12 • •■ 3 1 12 21 i 12i)0 1 23200 8832 Rust \enerally of nine members a])- pointed by tl:e Kinji^'s mandamus, and the House of Af'-oniUly of li^hteen members elected by the people as in tlio othci' colonies — four for each county, and two for each of the towns of Charlotte, George, and I'rince towns. The form of procedure is that of the British rarliamcnt. There is a Court of Chancery regulated after that at Westminster, over which the Governor presides — and the jurisprudence of the colony is managed by a Chief Justice. The laws are English. Finance. — The first revenue attempted to be levied for the support of the Government, as before stated, was the quit-rents — these failing in their extent, a Parliamentary grant was applied for and obtained, according to the following document, which was drawn up by the Colonial Office for the Board of Trade, and not used by the latter : the revenue and expenditure for twelve years was in sterling money — vA I 204 PRINCE EDWARD S ISLAND. t: f'\ Expenditure. Years. Parliamenta Grants. "a Civil. 1 Total. 1 1 £. £. £. , 1 £. £. £'. 1821 2()r)2 2052 1758 253 2011 1822 2311 2311 1272 178 1450 182;{ 201!) 201!) ' 2181 155 2330 1824 20:)3 2053 1!)35 161 2896 1825 247!) 2820 2470 5437 116 5553 182fi 4!)3,-, 2820 7755 6443 1828 4084 2820 ()!)04 6617 131 6748 182!) 4140 2S2n ()9()0 7869 115 7984 1830 4708 2820 7528 1 j 839!) 150 8549 1831 52,') (i 7820 9897 120 10023 1832 !)018* 8076 8457 1833 7()84* 13759 1834 ^f.7 17.350 ■ 2U3 1«,53(; 1 ill 17123 ^ 277 14782 363 ; 17()1)3 1 !0 00 •a tal vards. Tons. 13387 10!)00 1,5804 1(1708 20:)j!) 18130 iyi)!)0 2208.") 18080 21008 O o C ?0 .>4 C5 to o CO SO ^2 00 I - 5- •*< 00 .-1 o o 3» ■o from the )reparecl. 1^ o ^'l . X : S ^ i % o : „Z ^.li *~i tC m • = 50 : I- 3 : ;z; c -.CQPn „ ^ JS 3 ..3?jllll£S Da o.a-r: 03 tii»5; NOVA SCOTIA. 1 mWi n li -I 210 PRINCE EDWARD S ISLAND. SB :■ .1 ft \; f i I i ', Comparatively speaking, there is also a good deal of shipping built in the colony ; — during the year 1833 there were thirty-two vessels launched and registered — many of them small, but in the aggregate showing a tonnage of 4,006. The number of vessels employed in the foreign and coasting trade, belong- ing to the island, in the same year was, foreign, five vessels; tons, 1,169; men, 45; — coasting, 124 ves- sels ; tons, 6,346 ; men, 359. During the year end- ing Dec. 1832, there were transferred from the island to other ports, thirty-two vessels, with a tonnage of 3,202. 'I: 1 Pickled Shipping built Years. Dry Fish. Fish. Timber. for sale in Great Britain. Quintals. Barrels. Tons. Ifi23 903 585 9065 1276 lfi24 1044 745 5021 2500 1«25 1056 877 11909 3683 1«28 416 464 10318 7747 1H29 517 1122 6761 6081 1830 1537 590 6819 No Returns 1«31 1507 946 7816 — 1832 1201 — ■ 6401 — 1833 1058 302 4601 — 1834 1353 455 6635 1 I ' p Considerable attention is now however directed to agriculture, as shown by the exports ^ ^ For voluminous details respecting this and other colonies, see the large edition of this work. i^. c^ c^ Ct — r~ l"5 w l- 5 lO ~ ?'l o M f S '-O O I- o w s^i M — I «^ — CO cj oc i~ X 12 T o» — > e-i — 1^ 5 — o « -^ :!^ «•) « 5 =- 1^ -f — -" 5S tc S^l i>i » 5>1 « CO CI o ic -^ •*■ ^ — 1^ c^ "O CO © I': -^ © cc ca CO ^^ t^ en ■*-» i od ^ O !'• ?^ ^.^ lO »0 CO CI TT '.C O S n ^ lO f-< I" -f tj 00 o -r ^^ *>. CO :'^ ;o L*^ -^ "^ Fi l>. r^ !» CI CO CO W5 O M-^cvooiod — co — ooOrtcoocecoMOMoooo oi:'»>i"cowcio-5"0-ri^p;C5f — occi-t>cioc-. oo i>«di^ — CI cocici-fciu^rsonr-dcooocccoocccoci CCI>-^*'^»f^ i-« O -t*-*CO Cl'»t<'^^^CI -< 1— CM w »^cl»ocot>»t>»OoOCl^-0»oOr>. ir^t^coecoo -^ w 00 'f ■V »f5 O »l^ O O !>. 1-^ O CO 'f *^" — CO 'C CI I- CI i-O CO W « O CJ CO •-> CO O l~ I "<> ITS 00 — •>. C CO O 31 CO — CO O CJ CO r^ •— ; ^i3 *p ^7" « ^C ir; ^1 CO O l~ I "<> ITS 00 — •>. CO lO I "- CI CI ^^ O 00 CO I I 01 "O CIS CO O O O CO ~ " " 1^ lO »^ >o O lO '1^ O CO CO u^cocii-ce — fOCT-rcociirjcom |>-.o -r— < I I I -JO — O ^ O lO f I « " CI CO I I I o •o I t^ .—I I r; 3 I I CO Ji P (3 '•^ ■ £ I-' T3 o o : u -3 '11 : c : ■^ ai CO : -5 ii csP- — CO trt X ^ "ti CO CO Hi-!! .^ C - :=^-^ oT "= c t/a W 72 72 w <» 1-^ H i a> yj X 2 r t! £ £ n C 3 Value. — The commerce of the island is of course as yet in its infancy : the annexed table shows its* progress for ten years. p 2 $t \i% r 212 PRINCE KUWARU 8 ISLAND, <. 1 i, I'; f P. !i!) IMPORTS FROM IJrifisli Fort'ij^'n Total Years. (iruat Uritain. Colonies. States. Imports. £. ,c. M. £. 1823 12588 18245 , , 28813 l«-24 15704 14101 , ^ 2!)885 lH2a 31825 20!) 12 , , 52537 1»28 543J)8 18285 • • 73883 1829 2581!) 37378 , , 83195 1830 0!)8!) 35!»34 111 48014 : 1831 !>24(J 47103 80 5(;42!) 1 1832 15021 485!)1 213 83825 1833 I0i;77 584!)8 501 700(J8 EXPORTS FROM Years. Great Britain. British Colonics. Foreign States. Total Exports. £. £. £. £. 1823 10G23 12124 , , 28747 1824 2(;781 10828 • • 37587 1825 4138!) !>335 • • 50704 1828 77778 8107 25885 182!) 31281 30883 , , 62184 1830 7171 2822(J 850 36247 1831 8832 2(»2<)5 4!I0 33587 1832 111!)2 30843 538 42573 1833 7017 24312 401) 31738 Prince Edward's Island is essentially an agricul- tural colony, and admirably adapted for industrious emigrants with small capitals. Crop after crop of wheat is raised without manuring ; the barley is excellent, and oats much superior to any other of American growth ; the potatoes and turnips cannot be exceeded any where ; and peas and beans are equally good. Cabbage, carrots, and parsnips are produced as good as any in England ; in fact, all the ])roduce oi English gardens will thrive equally well. ai tij ail fc I 1? CLIMATE, FISHERIES, &C. 213 Total iiports. 52')37 7:{«fi:i 4(;ol4 r)<;42!) VM\-2o 700(iO Total Exi)orts. 2H747 :i7''«7 50704 2.'»H85 621(54 :iG247 3:i5»7 42573 31738 in agricul- industrious ;er crop of ! barlev is ly other of aips cannot beans are arsnips are fact, all the ually well. The climate is particularly favourable to sheep ; they are not subject to the rot, or any disease com- mon to sheep in this country : they are small, but of excellent flavour ; the common size is about sixty pounds the carcase. The rivers abound with trout, eels, mackarel, flounders, oysters, and lobsters, and some salmon ; and the coast with cod-fish and herrings in great abundance. The latter, soon after the ice breaks away in the sp.. ig, rush into the harbours on the north side of the island in immense shoals, are taken by the inhabitants in small nets with very little trouble ; and as salt is cheap (not being sub- ject to duty) most families barrel up a quantity for occasional use. The lobsters are in great abund- ance, and very large and fine. In Europe this kind of shell-fish is only taken on the sea-coast amongst rocks ; at Prince Edward's Island they are taken in the rivers and on shallows, where they feed on a kind of sea-weed, called by the islanders eel-grass ; and a person wading into the water half-lej deep might fill a bushel basket in half an hour. Many schooners are annually laden with oysters for Que- bec and Newfoundland. The plenty of fish, and the ease with which it is procured, is of great assistance to the inhabitants, and in particular to new settlers, before they have time to raise food from the produce of the land. Hares and partridges are plenty, and are free for any person to kill ; and in the spring and autumn great plenty of wild geese, ducks, and other water fowl. 214 PRINCE EUWAKU S ISLAND. Statistical Return, taken under the authority of f..e Act William IV. cap. 7. A.D. 1834. IM ■! I'., 15 6H()0 112() 147 81 l(i8 99 ()9i- 341 1503 198 1185 18224] li 1 It! 5 349 C209 823 54)9 "17947I.. .. 21 7940 187;( 293 72 310 118 1321 &)() 3551) 1334 6714 25152'.. .. 22 3070 524 84 31 90 30 303 12i) 956 325 2241 (i!K)2'.. .. 23 7011 llOti 191 20 193 84 799 2ii4 2451 851 5043 20220'.. ..j 2+ 13714 291s 353 41 281 199 lUOO 730 4942 1206 638() .50382 1 .. 25 H32nA 1H50 170 107 240 liO 8()2 325 14i) 767 3()8l 14330.. ..i 2] lOlHo 2ii32 212 119 341 125 lUl 497 2521 886 5154 22873 1 : 1' 27 715S 1439 115 7ti 134 52 481 30'2 1423 312 1913 11830 ..' 1; 2S 1540'2 4131 437 227 3117 213 1814 882 41)75 ' ,7) 8780 64430 2; j' 2I» 7741 20lJ9 190 131 210 84 939 4l:s 3417 1110 4-285 28240 3' 1, :io 29.i0 499 m 31 52 11 173 49 604 37 716 (il70..'.. .il 5503 8' 14 159 13 84 7ti 550 187 894 111 2378 15370 .. ... ;i2 14025 2294 403 37 259 78ti llitiii 627 3'2'25 470 8874 4. in 1S27 ithority of ;34. a during thf 1 vt'.'ir. 1 =) 5, 1 r» CA (0 •5^ 53 :?, ^" o 1 » /. 1 i2 04 )H (14 SI) (iO i:i() )2.') iOi) rii7 ,71 no ■■tri 111 470 714 ,HS7 ,042 5-22 :):i5 3i>3 l(Xi4 1():!5 I 1074 '.m Siil till 5 ririi) 17S1 934 r)7it ;(•)!> 43 100 27281 73H 3«l 1221 llOti til ill 3f<2 37li pr. 81 fi"l> 172 1S7H 2057 11S5 2005 H220 <)215 81)1)3 54'i!)| t)714 2241 5043 t)38t) 3(iSl 5154 1H13 H7H0 4-2H3 71fi 2378 8S74 ti355 l(i318 2tibl 3738 3442 3820 2180 4727 2093 4080 (i006 37s: 3478 2741 8512 12273 8882 8494 721 890 18080 1' (il53'.. 2710'.. 7022'..'.. I 7704, li 1, 477.5.. ..' 40<10.. ..[ 2S18'..'..| 1201'.. ..I 1 Jl,'..'..l SOHfi .,!.. 23- •,'..!.. ioo:iJi 1 .. I.123i^! ll.. 18224! ll I 1207ii'..'.. 321311 2! 21)1(18 3' 1! 27212 2 1; r, 17947 25152' (ii>i)2' 20220' 503821 14330 , 22873 ll 1 11830'..; 1: 644301 2 1 3 28240 3' 4| til70'..'..' 1.5370 .. .., 40519 .•' I: 22.5981 I ■• (i2ti47 " : 3297.5.. ;•■ 1.5047 ....' 1.5900 l'..l 18394..;.. I 11S09'.. ■■ 218771 3'..: 1374il'..|. 14870 .... 25199i..'-' 198li>, 1 ■■ 1.5232: l... H8tiS ..!.. 31132; 3 .. 3ii.535 i;. 4510!! 2 ■'. 4325' 3 i Ii903 .. G935 1; (continued. ) AGRICULTURAL PRODUCE. 215 Produce rnidoil iliirtii); the laat yi'ur. Id o o 418 25 1041 409 (i.5') 123 2li28l 888 21721 3,304; (i.58o; 40,5i8i .. 270 . . I(18ii0 . . 2140 .. 1015 .. liiio;; 501 .. 1 III. Tot.' :3S7(;i(i3 94**314 138(59 .'07 7, 13182 No. 1 I I827! 3:!ii9Sl ' 5990,0 I 9.378 2473 11074 (i299 .50510 20702 128.350^' 38850^ 2i)l(iti4 13100(i3 4<) 29 .397.9 ,X1899 21531 13418 I 3908 28712 7(il72 » lc Property : — Animal Food for ',Y.\,im\ luoutlis, at 2(M) lbs. I'lidi ])(!!' aniitiin, at 4'/. per pom il 1 10,0(M> Fish for :j:t,0(H) nioutlis, at l."»0 lbs. each jicr annum, at \hd. per i)ouiul 30,y:{7 Bread aiul otbt-r vc^a'tables for :i:),(H)() mouths, at WiL per day each iriOiUOf* Butter, milk, clieese, and egp[s for .'Ki,00n mouths, at \(l. eaeh per day for UfJ.'i days 50,187 Luxuries, viz. — wine, spirits, ale, tea, eotl'eo, suirar, &c. for :i:{,(K)0 mouths, at 'Ad. each per day for '^(i'^ days i:)0,fiO« Food for horses, cows, &c., 100,000 animals, at I/. each p(>r annum 100,000 Clothes and furniture worn out for 3.'i,000 mouths, at [M each per annum {)0,0(N) Domestic manufactures, &c. annually produced .... I0(>,000 Income from business, or profits on professions, &c. at 10/. each :j:m,oo(» Waste by fire, loss, bad seasons, S:c 25,000 Total annually created £1,140,330 VALUE OF MOVEABLE PROPERTY. Horses, C,2!«) at 10/. each 32,f»90 Horned cattle, 30,42» at 5/. each . , 152,140 Sheep, 50,510 at 1/. each .'.'^olO Swine, 20,702 at 1/. each 20,702 Poultry 25,000 House furniture, &c 500,000 Clothincj; and equipage 105.000 IVlachinery, farming implements, &c 100,"'»0 Bullion and Coin 10,000 Ships, boats, timber, and other merchandize 1,000,000 Total, moveable property £2,056,342 \ ! if i i ! 1' '■li' I* III ;.^i!' '•'■'I. h : '■ M w >■ 'it I 218 PRINCE Edward's island. VALUE OF IMMOVEABLE PROPERTY. Houses, 5,500 at 10/. each 55,000 Saw and grist mills, &c., 75 at 200/. each 15,000 Land, arable, 100,000 acres, at 5/. per acre 500,000 Land, occupied but untitled, 400,000 acres, at 1/. per acre 400,000 Land not granted, 900,000 acres, at ]s. per acre. . . . 45,000 Roads, .anals, dykes, bridges, wharfs, &c 160,000 Forts, gaols, churches, barracks, &c 80,000 Manufactories, mines, quarries, &c 50,000 Total, Immoveable Property ....^£1,305,000 Total, Moveable and Immoveable, £3,301,342 Religion, Education, and the Press — Social State, &c. — The established religion of the colony is Episcopalian, but I think the greater number of the inhabitants are of the Kirk of Scotland, or Romish faith. There are several missionary establishments ; and it may be truly said, that no people are more sedulously attentive to the pleasing duties of religion than the inhabitants of this little island, who have shown its practical workings on their minds by the efforts made for the dissemination of education. €1 ■|li ( !■■ SCHOOLS NEWSPAPERS, &C. 219 RTY. 55,000 15,000 500,000 400,000 45,000 1G0,000 80,000 50,000 ..£1,305,000 s, £3,301,342 ;ss — Social :he colony is mber of the , or Romish iblishments ; le are more ?s of religion d, who have linds by the ication. 1 1 Number of •J, Number of o H . <- !2 o .s* £ 1 o >-l i i'\ I 1. i) 1 |i nfm\ •• I mil 224 THE BERMUDAS. shortly after from Virginia and England, but dis- putes for some time prevailed resj)ecting the rights of the Virginia Company. They have ever since remained in the uninterrupted possession of England, and at one time attracted great attention from their salubrity and picturesque scenery. Physical Aspect. — The Bermudas consist of about 1 .50 islets, lying within a space of fifteen miles by five, and situate on the south-east side of a zone of coral reefs. When viewed from a ship at sea, they appear to have but a trifling elevation compared with the bold and lofty aspect of many of our West India islands : the surface is very irregular, seldom presenting any lofty elevations, the highest land not exceeding 200 feet. The principal islands (St. George's, Ireland, St. David, Somerset, Paget, Long- bird, and Smith's), together with the minor islands, lie in such a manner as to form several bavs : the whole form a chain, with very little interruption, for about thirty miles long, seldom exceeding in breadth two miles (resembling a shepherd's crook), running nearly east and west ; St. George's being the east, and Somerset and Ireland the west. It appears, in fact, as if an extensive island had disappeared in some convulsion of nature, leaving above water only a long narrow ridge, without either mountains or valleys, rivers, forests, or plains. Groves of cedars are here and there detached on little plateaus of rising ground ; and the numerous basins (some six- teen miles in circumference), formed by the islands, give very much the appearance of lake scenery. ISLAND OF ST. GEORGE. 225 but dis- the rights !vcr since ' England, Tom their consist of "teen miles of a zone ip at sea, compared our West ar, seldom jhest land slands (St. Lget, Long- lor islands, bays : the •uption, for in breadth ), running the east, appears, in ippeared in water only ountains or s of cedars plateaus of (some six- the islands, ke scenery. The north shore is defended by the heavy sea from any approach to the island on that side (except through the channel), and by innumerable sunken rocks, which form a shoal, with little interruption, for the whole length of the islands, and stretching in a north-east direction for nearly ten miles, leave ])ut a narrow and intricate passage for shipping, which is close to the shore, and defended by several strong batteries. The south coast is bold, and guarded by sunken rocks in a manner similar to the north shore. The island of St. George, the military station of the colony, and formerly the seat of Government, is about three miles long, and at no part exceeding half a mile broad ; it lies at the entrance of the only passage for ships of burthen. The harbour of St. George, when once entered, is said to be one of the finest in the world, and crpable of containing the whole British navy. It is completely land-locked. The entrance to the harbour of St. G iorge is narrow, and is protected by a fort called Cunningham. After passing this entrance, the town presents one of the most beautiful landscapes the eye ever rested on. The square tower to the little church — the white and yellow houses — the clear and cloudless sky above, with the dark foliage of the cedar-clad hills in the rear, — combine to make the scene most enchanting. To the westward of the town is a hill called Fort George, where is situated the telegraph. The streets are extremely narrow, which, however, is undoubtedly an advantage in all warm climates, as it create;* much pleasant shade, and without which walking in NOVA SCOTIA. Q I -x i-'ll I /: 7? !.1 1 '! : pi' 22G THE BERMUDAS. the middle of the day would not be bearable. The houses are low, scarcely ever exceeding two stories, and built substantially of Bermuda stone. The bar- racks are situated on a hill to the eastward of the town, and are very commodious, and would probably comfortably accommodate two thousand troops. There are few springs in the island, and consequently the people depend principally on rain, for the purpose of catching which they have large tanks, built of stone, and covered with Roman cement. The air being free from smoke, and the roofs of the houses newly whitewashed, the water thus caught is very pure, and is really as delicious as any I ever tasted. The Government have large reservoirs of water on the north side of the town for the supply of the navy. The fortifications for the protection of this end of Bermuda, ?.re the already-mentioned Fort Cunning- ham, at the mouth of the harbour, and a fort called Catharine, not quit^ completed, situated at the north- east extremity of St. George's Island. There are several singular caves among the islands. The entrance to one of these is most picturesque : — A kind of natural staircase is descended, into a dell surrounded on three sides with high rocks, covered with creeping plants of various kinds, and bordered around with the orange, coffee, palmeto, banana, and cedar trees, forming one of the most beautiful groves possible. The entrance to the cave situated in this spot is narrow, and visitors are obliged to go almost on all fours ; there are two chambers, one running into the other, with lofty roofs, from which hang beautiful petrifactions of various sizes and shapes. THE DOCK-YARD. •227 which, if struck with a piece of metal, or other hard substance, produce a variety of sounds. Another cave has a large body of salt water within, clear as crystal, and very deep ; a stone thro' . in makes a great noise ; the roof of this is similar to the other, but not quite so extensive ; both however are singu- larly beautiful. The Dock-yard is situated at the west end of Ire- land Island, and distant about fifteen miles from St. George's. For about three miles the course lies be- tween St. George and Long-bird Islands ; after pass- ing which we arrive at the westernmost outlet of St. George's Harbour, a narrow passage about the eighth of a mile wide, called the Ferry. To protect this opening, a Martello-tower, with one gun, erects its head. The ff Total... 1 12,424 156412341 308 430 1825 2002 ■3687 4764 11,962 ■ : In 1832 1607J2574 458 610 ;.; i m liH REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE. 233 otal. ■a V _ 05 <« « >• 11 rt a &M 4 587 1525 !4 427 1020 ■/' 257 1265 iO 304 1246 >6 930 1226 )9 541 1216 )2' 540 1256 i2 470 1200 73\ 648 1408 37 4764 11,962 The parliamentary return whence the foregoing is derived, gives minute statistics for each parish, the aggregate of which is (for 1826), births, 299; mar- riages, 34 ; deaths, 219. Persons employed in agri- culture, 689 ; manufactures, 71 ; commerce, 591 Number of scholars, males, 274 ; females, 233 Acres of land in onions, 50 ; arrow-root, 51 ; potatoes 197 ; barley and oats, 57 ; garden vegetables, 106 total acres, 461 : the produce of which was, onions 328,830 lbs. at 6s. 8d. per 100 lbs. ; arrow-root 18,1 74 lbs. at 1*. 8d. per lb. ; potatoes, 10,404 bushels at 4s. 4d. per bushel ; barley, 435 bushels, at ditto garden vegetables, 65,800 lbs. at \^d. per lb. Num ber of horses, 250 ; horned cattle, 1538 ; sheep, 228 and goats, 199. The colonial revenue is about 10,000/. per r^nnum, of which 6,000/. is derived from custom duties. Bermudas gross revenue and expenditure in pounds sterling : — REVENUE. EXPENDITURE*. Colonial. Parliamentary Grant. Total. 1828 1829 1830 1831 9,789 10,397 13,902 9,484 4000 4000 4000 4000 ( 13,789 14,397 17,802 13,484 27,813 15,834 15.452 1G,200 * The civil list voted by the Imperifil Parliament in August 1836, for the Bermudas, was 4449/. ^ m { '). I! i 234 THE BT5RMUDAS. ml / V ^,1 5:i Military Establishment. Return of the numbers and distribution of the effective force, officers, non- commissioned officers, and rank and file, of the British army, including Colonial corps, in each year since 1815, including artillery and engineers. OflRcers present, or on detached duty at the Stations. 6 en 09 en GO ti) Years. a "3 u 2 o 1 09 c "(3 p. u 1 a a 4) .1 in c in a E s en CO § 3 73 en <1 u en M U s s 1 a s e« PS 25 Jan. 1 181G 1 2 i 10 21 8 — 1 1 3 71 27 472 1817 1 — 2 11 3 — — 1 26 13 443 1818 1 1 2 G 5 — — — 1 24 11 466 1819 — 1 2 8 3 — — — 1 23 11 457 1820 1 — 4 5 2 1 — 1 1 — 20 17 278 1821 1 1 3 7 1 1 1 1 — 20 18 337 1822 - 1 4 4 4 — — — — 17 9 303 1823 — 1 4 7 4 — — — — 17 6 282 1824 — 2 3 5 4 — — — 1 15 6 269 1825 * — — — — — — — — — — 1826 1 1 5 6 5 — — — 1 1 32 11 531 1827 — 2 4 9 4 — — — — 32 9 554 1828 — 1 8 8 2 1 I 1 1 2 29 8 656 182!) 1 1 7 10 2 1 1 — 1 2 35 11 631 1830 2 1 7 11 5 1 1 1 1 3 35 13 690 1st Jan. 1831 3 1 1 15 19 6 2 2 2 1 3 63 21 1084 1832 1 2 1 12 17 9 1 2 2 1 3 65 24 1145 1833 1 1 7 8 6 — 1 1 — 2 33 14 575 * Garrisoned by the Royal Marines. The value of the trade inwards in 1832, was 102,742/. ; outwards, 13,784/. ; and the shipping in- ward, 16,257 tons. In 1825 there was of sugar ex- ported 406,347 lbs.; of rum. 113,636 gallons ; of molasses, 7,744 lbs. ; and of coffise, 9,400. This amount of staple West India produce has of late years diminished. The colonists have their own Legislative Assembly ,!'■: e numbers ficers, non- le, of the )s, in each engmeers. lions. c % c Pi 71 26 24 23 20 20 17 17 15 32 32 29 35 35 63 65 33 27 13 11 11 17 18 9 6 6 11 9 S 11 13 472 443 466 457 278 337 303 282 269 531 554 656 631 690 21 1084 24 1145 14 575 n 1832, was i shipping in- i of sugar ex- 6 gallons ; of 9,400. This s of late years tive Assembly THE LEGISLATURE. 235 and Council. The Council consists of eight members and a president ; the Legislative Assembly of thirty- six members, returned by nine parishes, into which the island :s divided. A member must have property to the amount of 200/. currency psr annum ; and an elector must possess a landed property of 40/. per annum. The men are distinguished for their indus- try, the women for their beauty, and both sexes are celebrated for their morals and hospitality. There is an establishment for convicts at the Bermudas ; the hulks stationed at Ireland's Island are in number three, and at St. George's one. The number of prisoners is about 1500; the expense of them 20,000/. a-year, and their labour is valued at 26,000/. per annum. There are two Wesleyan missionaries at Bermuda, who have scru ^diools, with fifty-nine teachers, 200 boys, and 33 • .■ in them. I have included the Bermudas among the North American Colonies, although the climate is tropical, and a large part of the population emancipated negroes. But the islands are included among our North American Colonies in nautical and ecclesiasti- cal affairs. As a maritime station they are of the highest value to England. BOOK VI. NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE LABRA- DOR COAST. !' '•« ■^1 I m : :i ! CHAPTER I. OEOGRAPHICAL POSITION AND AREA — GENERAL HISTORY, &C. — DIPLOMATIC NEGOCIATIONS RESPECTING FISHERIES, &C. Newfoundland Isle, lying on the north-east side of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between the parallels of 46° 40' to 59° 31' north latitude, and the meridians of 52° 44' to 59° 31' longitude west of Greenwich, is bounded on the whole eastern shore by the At- lantic Ocean ; on the north-east and north it is sepa- rated from the coast of Labrador by the Strait of Belleisle (which is about fifty miles long by twelve broad) ; on the north-west by the Gulf of St. Law- rence, and on the south-west it approaches at Cape Ray towards Cape Breton Isle, so as to form the main entrance from the Atlantic Ocean into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Newfoundland is the nearest part of America to Europe, the distance from St. John's in Newfound- land, to Port Valentia on the west coast of Ireland, being 1656 miles, and which might be traversed f , V' ■ -t.± Jis... ^ ll ill N.Amerioa. .ABRA- IISTORY, &C. HERIES, &C. last side of parallels of ; meridians Greer.wich, by the At- L it is sepa- 3 Strait of by twelve if St. Law- les at Cape 3 form the to the Gulf America to N^ewfound- of Ireland, i traversed 1 \ [' I)ca«ii A RacTa\Tid l»v .f.itl'AVdlktr fR'^ '1'^ I'or M«iiilirinu<'r\- .Ma."liii"M lliHt/i.rAri It DT»'m * Ea^«VBd by J tCAV«UifT If li.H.Whiltaktr A- /■''.'.*■<- Jf,in',i LiUif London lfi37. Ili^ii ) r Li i i^ :. ii I M' PI !, ( (I ''V i ^ /' II MM' hi 4 mi ' i' A N 'I : GENERAL HISTORY. 237 every month throughout the summer, if steam-packets were established, in from eight to ten days. Its extreme length measured, on a curve from Cape Race to Griguet Bay, is about 420 miles ; its widest part, from Cape Ray to Cape Bonavista, is about 300 miles, and excluding its broken and rugged shores, the circumference may be stated at 1000 miles ; the whole comprising an area of 36,000 square miles. General History. — The history of this island begins, according to tradition, with its possession by Biorn, a sea king, or pirate of Iceland, who was driven thither, and is said to have taken shelter near Port Grace Harbour, about the year 1001. It is doubtful, however, whether his party ever colonised the island ; if so, perhaps they had become extinct before its second discovery by John Cabot, the Ve- netian, who obtained a commission, to make dis- coveries, from Henry VII. ; and during his first voyage, 24th June, 1497, observed a headland, whichi as a lucky omen, he named Bonavista, which name it retains to the present day. Cabot brought home with him three of the natives, who were clothed in skins, and speaking a language which no person un- derstood. Robertson and Pinkerton were of opinion that Newfoundland was first colonised by the Norwegians, and the latter thought the red Indians degenerated savages from the Norwegian settlers, whom Eric, Bishop of Greenland, went to Winland in 1221 to reform. Some years ago a party of settlers proceeding up \ ' f I (I " 1 11 238 NEWFOUNDLAND. , ,i iM 'X 11 .; H I i| a river which fulls into Conception Bay, ohserved at a distance of six or seven miles above tlie buy the appearance of stone walls rising above the surface ; on removing the sand and alluvial earth, they ascer- tained these to be the remains of ancient buildings, with oak beams, and millstones sunk in oaken beds ; inclosures resembling gardens were also traced out, and plants of various kinds, not indigenous to the island, were growing around. Among the ruins were found different European coins, some of Dutch gold, considered to be old Fleminh coins, others of copper without inscriptions. According to a paper by Capt. Hercules Robinson, obligingly lent me by the late Secretary to the Royal Geographical Society, doubts are endeavoured to be thrown on the antiquity of the buildings, and although the finding of coins of virgin gold is admicted by Capt. Robinson, he asserts that the ruins are probably not older than the settlement of Lord Baltimore. I see no reason to agree with Capt. Robin.ion's apparently hastily-founded opinions. The Newfound Island, after its discovery by Cabot, was visited by Cotereal, a Portuguese, and Cartier, a French navigator, who reported most favourably on the abundance and excellency of its cod fishery, owing to which it was called Bacalao, the Indian name for that fish. Fishermen were soon attracted from European nations to visit its coasts ; still no permanent settlement was made, and the fate of the early attempts at this object were such as, for a length of time, to deter future adventurers. Besides several others, Mr. Hoare, a merchant of London, fitted out a ship, and attempted to pass the winter EARLY SKTTLKMKNTS. 'j:?y there in 153G, but the crew, to avoid starvation, were obliged to resort to the most horrible expedients, and indeed would all have perished had they not luckily found a French ship, in which the emaciated sur- vivors returned to England, giving deplorable ac- counts of their sufferings. Not deterred by this failure, however, and his own first attempt in 1578, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, the enterprising half brother of the famous Sir Walter Raleigh, having obtained a patent from Queen Elizabeth for six years, granting him possession of 200 leagues round any ])oint he chose to settle on, sold all his estates in England, and fitted out five small vessels, in which he em- barked with 200 people in 1583. Sir Humphrey landed in the Bay of St. John's, and took quiet pos- session of the country, in the presence of a vast con- course of fishermen, being the crews of thirty-six vessels of different nations. This unfortunate adven- turer was, however, not destined to realise his hopes ; being anxious to take possession of as much country as possible before the expiration of his patent, he proposed to prosecute his discoveries to the south ; but his crews mutinied, and part of them returned home : of those who followed him above 100 were lost in a gale, on board of one of the ships, off the Sable Island, or bank, and disheartened by their ad- verse circumstances, the others insiste ' on his steering homeward, which Sir Humphrey reluctantly con- sented t'^ remarking that he had but suspended his scheme until next spring, " when he would fit out an expedition royally." His ship, however, foun- dered in a storr on the passage home, and thus 1 1; •••■ 240 NEWFOUNDLAND. I' . i » .1, mi ended this disastrous expedition. Sir Iliimphrey Gilbert is represented at having been a man of en- gaging manners, courage, and learning, and much esteemed by Queen Elizabeth. In 1 ')85, according to our next accounts, a voyage was made to Newfoundland by Sir Bernard Drake, who claimed its sovereignty and fishery in the name of Queen Elizabeth. Sir Bernard seized several Portuguese ships laden with fish, and oil, and furs, and returned to England ; but, owing to the war with Spain, and the alarm caused by the Spanish armada, several years elapsed before another voyage was made to the island. A fresh attempt was made at a settlement in 1610, but this was also abandoned, as well as several sub- sequent ones. The attempt in 1610 was made by virtue of a patent granted by James I. to the Lord Chancellor Bacon, Lord Verulam, the Earl of North- ampton, Lord Chief Baron Tanfield, Sir John Dod- dridge, and forty other persons, and under the designation of the " Treasurer and Company of Ad- venturers and Planters of the Cities of London and Bristol for the Colonv of Newfoundland." The ])atent granted the lands between Capes St. Mary and Bonavista, with the seas and islands lying within ten leagues of the coast, for the purpose of securing the trade of fishing to our subjects for ever. Mr. Guy, an intelligent and enterprising merchant of Bristol, who planned this expedition, settled in Con- ception Bay, remained there two years, and then returned to England, leaving behind some of his people to curry on the fishery, the attempt at planting LORD DALTIMORK S COLONY. •241 being laid aside. In 1614 Captain Whitburn was sent out with a Commission from the Admiralty to empannel juries, and invest if^atc the abuses com- plained of by the firthermen ; lie held a Court of Ad- miralty on his arrival, and inmiediately received com- plaints from the masters of 1 70 vessels. In two years from this period, Whitburn was appointed chief over a little colony of Welshmen, formed by Dr. William Vaughan on the south part of the island, named by him Cambriol (now Little Britain), and which he purchased from the patentees. But what may be considered the first permanent colony was established in 1 G23, by Sir George Calvert, afterwards Lord Baltimore, in order that he might enjoy the exercise of his religion, which was Roman Catholic. The settlers fixed their head-quarters at Ferry Low, spreading by degrees over all the bays in the north- eastern peninsula. Lord Baltimore made his son governor over the colony, which he called Avalon ; and soon after proceeded thither himself, and it in- creased and flourished under his management : — how his lordship contrived to set aside the former paten- tees is not known. Avalon was the ancient name of Glastonbury in Somersetshire, where it is said Christianity was first preached in Britain : Lord Baltimore transferred the name to his new colonv under the idea that it was the first place in North America where Christianity was established. So important did the settlement of this colony now appear to the authorities at home, that we find the commissions directed to the Lord Treasurer, and r I NOVA SCOTIA. R 242 NEWFOUNDLAND , t 1? \\ \ i V n H !i ! l!:J Ui. i I others, " to erect a common fishery, as a nursery for seamen " and the first regulation for "governing of his Majesty's subjects inhabiting in Netvfoundland, or trafficking in bays," &c. (a very interesting document) was issued by Charles I., and bears date 1633, about which time Lord Falkland sent a colony from Ireland to Newfoundland. In 1654, Sir David Kirk obtained a grant from parliament of certain lands in Newfoundland, and proceeded thither with a few settlers ; at this time, notwithstanding the constant bickerings between our people and the French, who had established a colony at Placentia, there were settlements effected in fifteen different parts of the island, altogether amounting to 300 families : yet, strange to say, that for many years after this the Board of Trade and Plantatipns did everything in their power to prevent any settlers colonising on the island, and authorised the commis- sion of various acts of cruelty on those who had settled ! Shortly after the accession of King William III., on war breaking out with France, one of the causes for which was set forth that, " of late the incroach- ments of the French upon Newfoundland, and his Majesty's subjects' trade and fishery there, had been more like the invasions of an enemy than becoming friends, who enjoyed the advantages of that trade only by permission *." The French settlement was attacked * See conclusion of the section for an exposition of the ex- clusive right of fishing now clairaed, and, strange to say, exer- cised by the French. ATTACKED BY THE FRENCH. 243 in September, 1692, by Commander Williams, but owing to the spirited conduct of the French Governor, the expedition succeeded in doing no more than burn- ing the works on Point Vcsti. On the other hand, in 1696, the Chevalier Nesmond, with a strong squadron of French ships, aided by the force on the island, made a descent on the town and harbour of St. John ; but having totally failed he returned to France. Before the close of that year the French were, however, more successful, for another squadron arriving, under Brouillan, he, in concert with Ibber- ville, att?.cked St. John's, which being now short of military stores, and in a very defenceless state, was compelled to surrender. The French, however, did not retain it, but having set fire to the fort and town, sent the garrison on parole to England. The French admiral appears to have done nothing further, in consequence of a misunderstanding with Ibberville, who commanded the troops, and who fol- lowed up his success by destroying all the British settlements, except those of Bonavista and Carbonia Harbour, failing before which, he returned to Pla- centia. To retrieve these losses a British squadron, under Admiral Nevil, with 1500 troops, commanded by Sir John Gibson, was dispatched, but the cowardice of one commander, and the ignorance of the other, dis- appointed the anticipated results ; in the meantime the peace of Ryswick put an end to hostilities, by replacing things in the position they were in piior to this war, and Sir John Norris was appointed gover- nor, to see that the stipulations were properly ob- r2 I ■\ i'^ i ? iii:^i M'l 244 XEVVFOUNDLAND. served. The government of Newfoundland was at this time an object of ambition, and we find it always conferred on some distinguished officer of the royal navy. Many acts of parliament were enacted to regulate the fisheries, conferring privileges on fishing ships, and prohibiting the importation of fish taken by foreigners in foreign ships. Shortly after the declaration of war against France, in May, 1 702, Sir John Leake was dispatched with a small squadron, to take possession of the whole island ; and arriving from England in August, he partially effected the object of his mission, by de- stroying the French settlements at Trepas. jy, St. Mary's, Colinet, Great and Little St. Lawrence, and the island of St. Peters, and burning the fishing boats ; he returned to England at the end of the year with twenty-three prizes. In the following year Vice-Admiral Graydon, being ordered with a squadron to protect the planta- tions, arrived off the coast of Newfoundland August 2d : but owing to a fog, which continued with great density for thirty days, his ships were dispersed, and could not be brought together till the 3d of Septem- ber. He now called a council of war, as to the prac- ticability of attacking the strong hold of the French at Placentia, and it was decided that it would not be prudent to do so with the force at his disposal ; on which he returned to England, without effecting more than protecting the trade by the presence of his fleet : tlie Admiral was severely and justly cen- sured for his conduct. The miscarriage of Graydon encouraged the French DESTRUCTION OF ST. JOHN S. 245 to attempt the conquest of the whole island ; and the garrison of Placentia having- heen strongly reinforced from Canada, in the year 1705 five hundred men were dispatched under the command of Subercase, and made a resolute attack on Petty Harbour, a port within nine miles of St. John's, where they were repulsed ; the French, however, devastated the dif- ferent settlements, destroyed Fort Forillon, and spread their ravages coastwise as far as Bonavista. In the year 1706, Captain Underdown, with only ten ships, destroyed many of the French vessels in the harbours along the coast, notwithstanding that the French had as many as ten armed v^sels on that station, and by his activity and success gave a severe blow to their trade. Although parliament earnestly entreated the Queen to " use her royal endeavours to recover and preserve the ancient possessions, trade, and fisheries of Newfoundland," little attention was paid to this humble address, the whole disposable force being assigned to the Duke of Marlborough, at that time in the midst of his victorious career. The French, however, notwithstanding their repeated dis- asters on the continent, still continued to persevere in their endeavours for the expulsion of the English from Newfoundland, and accordingly, St. Ovide, the King's Lieutenant at Placentia, having effected a landing without opposition, or without being dis- covered, within five leagues of St. John's, attacked and completely destroyed that town, on the 1st of January, 1708. Costabelle, the French Commander-in-Chief, next directed his force on Carbonia, the only settlement 246 NEWFOUNDLAND. 't<) of consequence remaining in the hands of the En- glish ; but on this occasion he was not so fortunate, and was even obliged to abandon the enterprise, after destroying all the buildings within their reach. The news of this misfortune produced great ex- citement in England, as the possession of the fisheries had ever been considered a point of immense impor- tance, and an expedition was ordered, under Captain G. Martin, and Coloi el Jb'rancis Nicholson, to attempt the conquest of the island ; but, owing to the strong force of the French, they could effect no more than the destruction of a few fishing stations. From this tirav" until the treaty of Utrecht, the French remained in peaceable possession of Newfoundland : by this treaty, however, the island, as well as the adjacent ones, were declared to belong wholly to Great Britain. The French being allowed to catch and cure fish on certain conditions, and to occupy the islets of St. Pierre and Miquelon, with a garrison of fifty men on each. The final conquest of all their American colonies in the seven years' war. made the French glad to receive back this privilege again at the peace of 1 763. But as the French have now set up an exclusive (in- stead of a concurrent) right to a large extent of the coast fishery, and proceeded to drive away, by force, British vessels engaged in fishing on the very shores of their own island, — which insult and injury our ministers have ignobly submitted to, — I give here the following extracts from the treaties between England and France, from 1713 to 1814 ; the gross infraction of which, by the latter power, is fully ex- the En- fortunate, rise, after ich. great ex- le fisheries ise impor- cr Captain to attempt the strong more than From this 1 remained by this le adjacent bat Britain. jure fish on slets of St. f fifty men ;an colonies ich glad to ice of 1763. elusive (in- :tent of the ', BY FORCE, very shores injury our [ give here es between ; the gross is fuUv ex- ; 1 DIPLOMATIC NEGOCIATIONS. 247 plained by the Chamber of Commerce at St. John's, who demonstrate that the statesmen, who tamely submit to a continuance of the present monstrous exclusive claims of fishery on the British coasts of Newfoundland by the French government, are unde- serving the confidence of the English nation, when they are unable or unwilling to protect its rights. Newfoundland has had a resident governor ever since the year 1728, and amongst the distinguished officers who have held that office we find the names of Rodney, Osborne, Byng, Hardy, Graves, &c. Civil and justiciary courts were early established ; and a superior court was added about 1750. In 1832 a representative government was given to Newfound- land, similar to that enjoyed at Nova Scotia. T now subjoin the following documents relative to the exclusive right claimed by the French of fishing on the coasts of our own island. DIPLOMATIC NEGOCIATIONS RESPECTING NEWFOUND- LAND. Treaty op Utrecht, 1715. — Art. 13. "The is- land called Newfoundland, with the adjacent islands, s' a,il from this time forward belong of right wholly to Great Britain ; and to that end the town and for- tress of Placentia, and whatever other places in the said island are in possession of the French, shall be yielded and given up, within seven months from the exchange of the ratifications of this treaty, or sooner, if possible, by the most Christian King, to those who have a commission from the Queen of Great Britain for that purpose. Nor shall the most Chris- Ul lifi 5.1 ;a 248 NEWFOUNDLAND. r' I'i i * ; i '< tian King, his heirs and successors, or any of their sul)jects, at any time hereafter lay claim to any right to the said island or islands, or to any part of it, or them. Moreover, it shall not be lawful for the subjects of France to fortify any place in the said island of Newfoundlaad, or to erect any buiklingh! there, beside? strtges made of boards, and huts ne* es* sary and usual for drying fish ; or to re-^virt to ht said island beyond the time necesi^ury for lishirr;, and drying of fish. But it shall be allowed to the subjects of France to catch ash, and to dry them on land, in that part only, and in no otb.er be ides (hat, of the said island of Newfoundland, which stretches from the jilace called Cape Bonavista to the northern point of the said island, and from thence running down by the vvf'stern bide, reaches as far us the place called l-')int Riche. But the island called Cape Breton, as also all others, both in the mouth of the river St. Lawrence, and in the gulf of the same name, shall hereafter belong of right tu the Freiich ; and the most Christian King shall have all manner of liberty to fortify any place or places there." Treaty^ of Paris, 1763.— Art. 5. "The subjects of France shall have the liberty of fishing and dry- ing, on a part of the coasts of the island of New- foundland, such as it is specified in the 13th article of the treaty of Utrecht ; which article is renewed and confirmed by the present treaty (except what relates to the island of Cape Breton, as well as to the other islands and coasts in the mouth and in the Gulf of St. Lawrence) : and his Britannic Majesty i '. M TREATY OF VERSAILLES, 1783. 249 y of their any right art of it, il for the the said huiKHrigs iits ne'CS' trt to "ht fishirr^, d to the Y them on ides that, i stretches I noi thern e running 'ar as the Lnd called :he mouth ulf of the ;lit to the II have all or places e subjects • and drv- of New- Jth article 3 renewed 3ept what veil as to md in the c Majesty ! consents to leave to the su])jects of the most Chris- tian King the liberty of fishing in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on condition that the subjects of France do not exercise the said fishery but at the distance of three leagues from all the coasts belonging to iireat Britain, as well those of the continent, as those of the islands situated in the said Gulf of St. !ui' rence. And as to what relates to the fishery on the coasts of the island of Cape Breton out of the said gulf, the subjects of the most Christian King shall not be permitted to exercise the said fisuery but at the distance of fifteen leagues from the coasts of the island of Cape Breton, and the fishery on the coasts of Nova Scotia or Acadia, and every- where else out of the said gulf, shall remain on the foot of former treaties. xVrt. 6. " The King of Great Britain cedes the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, in full right, to his most Christian IVIajesty, to serve as a shelter to the French fishermen . and his said most Christian Majesty engages not to fortify the said islands ; to erect no buildings upon them, but merely for the convenience of the fishery : and to keep upon them a guard of fifty men only for the police." Treaty op Versailles, 1783. — Art. 4. "His Majesty the King of Great Britain is maintained in his right to the island of Newfoundland, and to the adjacent islands, as the whole were 'assured to him by the thirteenth article of the treaty of Utrecht ; excepting the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, which are ceded in full right, by the present treaty, to his most Christian Majesty. 'i'h liii; '> \IU f I- \: 1 ? H^^^^, 250 NEWFOUNDLAND. Art. 5. " His Majesty the most Christian King, in order to prevent the quarrels wliich have hitherto arisen between the two nations of England and France, consents to renounce the right of fishing, which belonirs to him in virtue of the aforesaid article of the treaty of Utrecht, from Cape Bonavista to Cape St. John, situated on the eastern coast of Newfoundland, in fifty degrees north latitude ; and his Majesty the King of Great Britain consents, on his part, that the fishery assigned to the subjects of his most Christian Majesty, beginning at the said Cape St. John, passing to the north, and descending by the western coast of the island of Newfoundland, shall extend to the place called Cape Raye, situated in forty-seven degrees fifty minutes latitude. The French fishermen shall enjoy the fishery which is assigned to them by the present article, as they had the right to enjoy that which was assigned to them by the treaty of Utrecht. Art. 6. " With regard to the fishery in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the French shall continue to exer- cise it, conformably to the fifth article of the treaty of Paris." Declaration op his Britannic Majesty. — 1. "The King having entirely agreed with his most Christian Majesty upon the articles of the definitive treaty, will seek every means which shall not only insure the execution thereof, with his accustomed good faith and punctuality, but will beside give, on his part, all possible efficacy to the pri;:ciples which shall prevent even the least foundation of dispute HIS BRITANNIC MAJESTY S DECLAUATION. 251 for the future. To this end, and in order that the fishermen of the two nations may not give cause for daily quarrels, his Britannic Majesty will take the most positive measures for preventing his subjects from interrupting, in any manner, by their compe- tition, the fishery of the French, during the tempo- rary exercise of it which is granted to them upon the coasts of the island of Newfoundland ; and he will for this purpose cause the fixed settlements, which shall be formed there, to be removed. His Britannic Majesty will give orders that the French fishermen be not incommoded in cutting the wood necessary for the repair of their scaflblds, huts, and fishing vessels. " The thirteenth article of the treaty of Utrecht, and the method of carrying on the fishery, which has at all times been acknowledged, shall be the plan upon which the fishery shall be carried on there : it shall not be deviated from by either party ; the French fishermen building only their scaffolds, confining themselves to the repair of their fishing-vessels, and not wintering there ; the subjects of his Britannic Majesty, on their part, not molesting in any manner the French fishermen during their fishing, nor in- juring their scaffolds during their absence. "The King of Great Britain, in ceding the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon to France, regards them as ceded for the purpose of serving as a real shelter to the French fishermen, and in full confidence that these possessions will not become an object of jea- lousy between the two nations ; and that the fishery '■ I' ';l I 252 NEWFOUNDLAND. l)ctwccn the said islands and that of Newfoundland shall he limited to the middle of the channel. " Manchksteu." " Given at Versailles, the 3d September, 178.3." nu- 'i>t Counter Declaration of his most Christian Majkstv. — "The principles which have guided the Kin^ in the whole course of the negociations which ])receded the re-establishment of peace must have convinced the King of Great Britain that his Majesty has had no other design than to render it solid and lasting, by preventing as much as possible, in the four quarters of the world, every subject of discus- sion and quarrel. •' The King of Great Britain undoubtedly places too much confidence in the uprightness of his Ma- jesty's intentions, not to rely upon his constant attention to ])revent the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon from becoming an object of jealousy be- tween the two nations. "As to the fisherv on the coasts of Newfoundland, which has been the object of the new arrangements settled by the two sovereigns upon this matter, it is sufficiently ascertained by the fifth article of the treaty of peace signed this day, and by the decla- ration lii ioe delivered to-day by his Britannic Majesty's Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipo- tentiary ; and his Majesty declares that he is fully satisfied on this head. " In regard to the fishery between the island of Newfoundland, and those of St. Pierre and Mique- m-y\. TREATII.S OF I'AIUS, 1814 AND 1815. '2ol] Ion, it is not to be carried on by eitber pnrtv but to the niidcUc of the channel ; and his Majesty .ill give the most positive orders that the French fishermen .shall not go beyond this line. His Majesty is firmly persuaded that the King of Great Britain will give like orders to the English fishermen. " Given at Versailles, the 3d of September, 1783. " Gravier db Veugennes. ' Treaty of Paris, 1814. — Art. 8. " Ilia Britannic Majesty, stij)ulating for himself and his allies, en- gages to restore to his most Christian Majesty, within the term which shall be hereafter fixed, the colonies, fisheries, factories, and establishments of every kind which were jmssessed by France on the Is^t January, 1792, in the seas, and on the continents of America, Africa, and Asia, with exception, how- ever, of the islands of Tobago and St. Lucie, and the Isle of France and its dependencies, especially Rodrigues and Les Sechelles, which several colonies and possessions hi > most Christian Majesty cedes in full right and sovereignty to his Britannic Ma- jesty, and also the portion of St. Domingo ceded to France by the treaty of Basle, and which his most Christian Majesty restores in full right and sove- reignty to his Catholic Majesty. Art. 13. "The French right of fishery upon the Great Bank of Newfoundland, upon the coasts of the island of that name, and of those adjacent islands in the St. Lawrence, shall be replaced upon the footing in which it stood m 1792." Treaty of Paris, 1815.— Art. 11.— "The treaty 254 NKWl'OUNDLAND. •{•«' J/i, 1'il m ' I i ' : i of Paris of the .'«)th of May, 1S14, and the final Act of tlie C()ii{::reHs of Vienna of the !Jth of June, 181;), are confirmed, and shall he maintained in all such of their enactments which shall not have been modified by the articles of the present treaty." In order to elucidate the meanini^ (if indeed such be required) of the treaties between Great Britain and France, on the subject of an exclusive or con- current ri^ht of fishinc^ on the Newfoundland coasts, I subjoin here extracts from the treaties on the same subject between England and the United States ; and yet, after perusing these explicit documents, some public men afi'ect ignorance as to whether the French had a ritjht to drive EmjUsh fishing vessels off the coast of Newfoundland ! Treaty of 1783. — Art. 3. " It is agreed that the people of the United States shall continue to enjoy unmolested the right to take fish of every kind on the Grand Bank, and all other Banks of Newfound- land, also in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and at all other places in the sea, where the inhabitants of both countries used at any time heretofore to fish ; and also that the inhabitants of the United States shall have liberty to take fish of any kind on such part of the coast of Newfoundland as British fishermen shall use (but not to dry and cure the same on that island), and also in bays and creeks of all other of his Britannic Majesty's dominions in America ; and that the American fishermen shall have liberty to diy and cure fish in any of the unsettled bays, har- bours, and creeks of Nova Scotia, Magdalen Islands, and Labrador, so long as the same shall remain UNITKD STATKS CONVKNTION. 2.')-) unsettled ; but so soon na the same or either of them shall be settled, it shall not be lawful for the said fishermen to dry or cure fish at such settlements without a previous aj^reement for that purpose with the iidiabitants, proprietors, or possessors of that jrround." In 181 S, the United States' Plenipotentiary knew too well the value of the privileges of fishing on the coasts of our territory not to make it an important branch of his negociatioiis ; thus — "Whereas," says tlie convention, " ditlerences have arisen respecting the liberty claimed by the United States for the inhabitants thereof, to take, dry, and cure fish on certain coasts, bays, harbours, and creeks of his Britannic Majesty's dominions in America ; it is agreed between the single contract- ing parties, that tlie inhabitants of the said United States shall have for ever, in connection with the subjects of his Britannic Majesty, the liberty to take fish of every kind on that part of the southern coast of Newfoundland which extends from Cape Ray to the Rameau Islands, on the western and northern coast of Newfoundland, from the said Cape Ray to the Guiperon Islands, on the shores of Mag- dalen Islands, and also on the coasts, bays, harbours, and creeks, from Mount Jolly, on the southern coast of Labrador, to and through the Straits of Belleisle, and thence northwardly, indefinitely along the coast, without prejudice, however, to any of the exclusive rights of the Hudson's Bay Company." I think there are many Englishmen who will scarcely credit that any nation dare exclude the iM:§jf 256 NEWFOUNDLAND. :'.-' {? J J ' i I .'■' { U '■% ii i.»l! British from fishing on the shores of their own island ; or that any government (whether it be Whig or Tory) would not immediately determine such an injury and insult, to be no case for negociation, but one for action. I therefore subjoin the following document, which may be considered official; and entreating its perusal, I would hope the reader will agree with me, before closing this Book, that the subject to which it refers is one of the highest national importance, as regards our maritime power and commerce. " Brigus, Newfoundland, 1st November, 1833. " Sir, — In May, 1830, the Chamber of Commerce at Saint John's being desirous of asserting our right of fishery on that part of the coast of this island assigned to the French by treaty for the purposes of fishing only, they fitted a vessel, viz. the Hannah, with a sufficient crew, and with every requisite for the prosecution of the object above stated, and I was engaged by them to supenntend the experiment. " Furnished with full instructions by the Chamber, I departed for the north coast of the island on the 27th June, and anchored at Croque on the 5th day of July, it being the place selected for the trial, because it was the head quarters of the French Com- modore, and having several extensive fishing esta- blishments therein. The Commodore was not arrived at that time, nor did I find any vessel of force in the port. " I immediately commenced a survey of the har- bour, to select a fit situation whereupon to commence operations. Found a deserted fishing room in ruins. 'i own island; 3 Whig or e such an ciation, but 3 following ficial ; and reader will , that the he highest :ime power mber, 18S3. ' Commerce g our right this island purposes of le Hannah, equisite for ited, and I experiment, le Chamber, land on the he 5th day the trial, rench Com- shing esta- not arrived of force in of the har- 3 commence om in ruins. DISPUTED RIGHT OP FISHERY. 257 on a low flat island in Irishman's Bay (a portion of Croque Harbour) in front of two considerable fish- ing establishments, neither of which appeared to have the premises alluded to in possession. Landed on them, and left a notice in writing affixed to the dwelling, that I intended to occupy them for the purposes of the fishery. On the following day they were claimed by Captain Deloram, who was in ma- nii_,ement of the two establishments alluded to ; and I was threatened by him that, if I persisted in hold- ing possession, he would blow me and my men off the rock ; and I believed him, for he looked a likely person to put such a threat into execution. Having excited their attention, I accordingly withdrew from thence, and selected a spot of ground at the head of the harbour, near where the Hannah was moored, and on which I caused a stage to be erected. Pro- gressed without any interruption till the 8th, when we went into the south-west arm for the purpose of hauling bait, and were in the act of securing a con- siderable portion, when we were opposed by a Cap- tain Duprere, who commanded a St. Maloe brig belonging to Monsieur Elbere, merchant, of that port. Duprere did not attempt to dispossess us of the bait, but forbid our attempting to take any more, and stated that he was ordered to do so by Captain Herbert, senior captain of the port, and one pos- sessing the authority of our ancient fishing admirals. Produced an order from him to that effect, as his warrant. Immediately protested against them both, and served them with the same. Sent two boats fishing, which were driven from their anchorage by NOVA SCOTIA. S 258 NEWFOUNDLAND. nil J ■■ 1 i4i * ! Pi ','■! mr French boats dispatched for the purpose by Captain Deloram. They did not attempt to injure the men, but merely weighed their anchors, and ordered them to leave the coast, threatening, if they persisted in fishing, to cut them adrift, and force them to quit. Same day came in the French naval schooner Philo- mele, of sixteen guns, commanded by Monsieur Lavoe, and anchored some little distance below us. She had not been at anchor many minutes, when the commander came on board to inquire my busi- ness. On being told I came to fish, said I must depart. In reply, stated that I came to assert my right as a British subject to fish there, and that nothing short of force would compel me to leave the port. He would see the captains, and send for me in the evening. Sent for accordingly, and I went on board the Philomele, when I met Monsieur Savers, who had a fishing establishment at Croque. He asserted the exclusive right of the French to that part of the coast assigned them by treaty. I as strenuously insisted on my right, as a British sub- ject, to fish there in common with them, as well as the Americans. This latter remark drew forth from Captain Lavoe first the minister's instructions on the subject of the American fishery on tlie north- west coast of the island. Denied their right, and were ordered to prevent them by every possible means. His instructions respecting the English fishermen were next produced. Instructed the French commanders not to permit the ingress of British fishermen more than was necessary for the protection or repair of their property in tlie winter, or during ti • Captain the men, !red them rsisted in to quit, ler Philo- Monsieur below us. ites, when 3 my busi- id I must assert my and that 3 leave the !nd for me tid I went eur Sayers, oque. He eh to that ;aty. I as Iritish sub- as well as forth from uctions on tlie north- right, and rv possible le English the French of British 3 protection r, or during DISPUTED RIGHT OP FISHERY. 259 the absence of the French. That, according to their construction of the treaty, they had an exclusive right to the fishery on that coast, or that part of the island set apart to their use ; therefore they were to be particular with those tolerated by the merchant captains, and to make them understand that they were suffered to reside amongst them, and to fish, not as a matter of right, but as an act of courtesy : and with regard to all other British subjects, they were, by every means in their power, to prevent their acquiring a right to fish on the coast ; and in the execution of the instructions on that head, they were to be governed by the instructions relative to the Americans, viz. not to use compulsion in the first instance, but a gentle opposition, and an intimation to depart, which hitherto had been found sufficient, but if the parties were obstinate, then force was to be resorted to, in order to effect their departure. " He then went into instructions relative to a saUnon fishery at Cod Roy, in which a merchant of the name of Hunt ^ was interested. That his men were in possession of it, and, although within the limits of the French coast, maintained themselves in their post by beating off the crew of a French vessel, sent expressly from France to possess themselves of it the previous year. That, since seeing me in the morning, he had seen the captains, who were una- nimous in their determination to prevent my -'v-iw from fishing, and therefore he could not sanction my doing so : that I was not to attempt it again. 1 Mr. A. Hunt, of Dartmouth. s 2 : In I m 260 NEWFOUNDLAND. lli J i,' I %'■'. '> hn ■',' I !^ k'\ m That he should not attempt to remove me from the harbour ; that I might remain as long as I pleased : he could not be so uncivil to any Englishman who came in his way. Was particular in expressing his opinion that I had not any right, and that they were determined to prevent any boats from fishing, as often as they attempted it. " I of course desisted from any further effort, but waited on the commander of the Philomele with my protests against Monsieur Deloram and others who had opposed me. He declined receiving them, and read the copy of a letter which he had addressed to the senior captains, directing them to prevent the Hannah's crew from fishing at Croque, or any other part in the French shore. " The number of ships employed this season by the French in this fishery were 266 in all, viz. — From Grainville, 116; St. Maloc, 110; Pampol and Bennick, 30 ; Havre, 4 ; Nants, 6. Total, 26^i from 100 to 350 tons burthen, having 51 men and boys each, amounting in the whole to 13,566, one tenth portion of whom were boys. This number surpassed considerably the governor's estimate, a very good reason for which was assigned to me by the French gentleman from whom I received the information. Each establishment had two, some four cod seins, from sixteen to thirty fathoms deep, and two hun- dred fathoms long. Their capelin seins were from twenty-one feet to fifty in depth : tvro were held by each establishment. The cost of a cod sein cnw amounted for the season to 6,000 livres, and the rutch thereof to 1,200 quintals. f!f '- -' t STATE OF THE FRENCH FISHERY. 261 " The allowance of each man for the season, com- mencing at the first day of May, and ending on arrival in France, on or about the first day of No- vember, 35 lbs. pork, 35 lbs. butter, 3| cwt. bread, 40 lbs. peas, 6 gallons of brandy, | tierce cyder, in all equal to about 8/. sterling ; boat-masters, or principal men, are paid about 10/. as wages, an ordi- nary fisherman 11., and boys 3/. less ; a sum equal to '21. 10s. allowed on each as a bounty by their government *. • The statistics of the Coil Fishery of France for 1832 are thus given by Mr. Young, of Nova Scotia, in his valuable work on the fisheries, the perusal of which I recommend to all who take an interest in this important subject. " Amount of Premiums or Drawbacks on this Fishery, 20,000,000 fr. Mercantile Seamen of France in 1816, 8,000 ; in 1826, 10,000 : 1827, 11,000; 1829, 12,000; 1830, 10,000; 1831, 7,414. Premiums of 400 francs up to 1,100 and 1,200 francs a man had been granted. Average of five years' quantity of end takeji by the French in Newfoundland, St. Pierre, and M"que- lon, 245,000 quintals: of these 27,000 have been sent direct to French Colonies in the West Indies, and beyond the Cape of Good Hope; 17,000 to Spain, Portugal, and Italy; 130,000 have been consumed in France; and the rem; ining 29,000, after being brought to France, have been re-exported to the Colonies; 40 francs (33a'. 4^/.) as a bounty, had been granted on every quintal of cod fish transhipped to the Colonies. On cod valued at about 25 francs (245. lOJ.) intrinsically in France, the premium on re-exportation now stands at 24 francs (20?.). On cod sent direct from the Colonies to foreign ports in the Mediterranean, 12 francs (10«.) : on re-export:- - tion from France to foreign ports in the Mediterranean, or in passing the frontier by land into Spain, 10 francs (8s. 4f/.) per quintal." I i! I ■■' . ♦.^-~-'*' ■*r-"^^ 262 NKWFOUXDLAXD. / .'i ,'', ' n^ :.'ili« H; ''Ifl* ■• f. ^ ' (- " 111 1820 their catch of fish amounted to 3.50,000 quintals — 45 quintals for each person employed — an average catch and good voyage. " At that period their hounties were extremely liberal ; therefore, supposing the merchants were allowed on each man employed GO livres, or 50s. each on 13,566 men, 33,915/. " That they caught in the season, for their catch was partial . . . 450,000 quintals. Of which was consumed in France, and no boun- ty granted on it . , 150,000 300,000 quints, for bounty. Viz. Shipped to Marti lique at 20 livres per quintal bountv, or I6s. Sd. ster- ling 120,000 quintals 100,000 Ditto to Italy and Spain, at 5 livres, 4*-. 2(L ster- . . . 180,000 ditto 37,000 ling • • 300,000 ditto £171,415 171,415/. st'-'-hn;^ ])uid in bounty, besides materials granted the fii^hermen in iuklition. ' In fact, tlic tislierv is for the i)urposo of training seamen for their navy, and consequently is a national undertaking, ratlior t\vr\ the pursuit of private indi- viduals ^ * Sec the report of t lie French Minister of Marine tor UVIU. r :■' o 3.50,000 (loved — an extremely lants were es, or 50s. U. for bounty. als 100,000 o 37,000 5 £171,415 es material? ' of training "? a national jrivate incli- iiie lor \n-2U. DISPUTED RIGHT OF FISHERY. 2G3 " The object of the voyage having been thus far advanced, I departed from Croque on the 20th July for Domino, on the Isle of Ponds La Brador, and on my return from thence again anchored at Croque on the 9th September, after having visited several of the harbours between it and Cape Quirpoon. " The Philomele schooner and a ship of war were at anchor when I entered — visited the commander of the former, and reported my return to fish : I was referred by him to the Commodore, and arranged to call on him at ten o'clock the following morning. " At seven. Captain Lavoe came alongside with the Commodore's compliments, inviting me to meet him at breakfast at nine, on board the Hebe, which proved to be a small thirty-two gun frigate. " At nine, went on board, was received, and treated handsomely, but would not be permitted to fish — indeed there were not any to be caught at that time on tlie coast. " On the afternoon of the 12th, again waited on the Commodore to deliver to him, in writing, the object of my mission, and to receive from him a copy of his instructions relative to Britisli fishermen, which he had promised on my previous visit. " I required of him to receive my protests against Monsieurs Herbert, Duprere, and Deloram, declaring at the same time, that they had been previously ten- dered to Captain Lavoe, of the Philomele — he refused receiving them, saying, he had not any instructions. I ]iressc'd him, as a puijlic otHcer, to receive them, declaring i cDneeived it to be a j)urt of his duty to 7 n' :| - H I . li 1: 'ill 1 lit 3: I'l ,1 '!« = «t|r ', I' • ''M 264 NEWFOUNDLAND. do SO, — • No, we had our courts and public offices, apply to them.' I again declared that I considered it his duty as a public officer, and also as a magis- trate, to notice my application, and inquired if a Frenchman had a protest to make would he receive it .'' — ' Yes, but that was diflferent, you must go to your own courts — we take cognizance only of offences between French subjects, and are not amenable to your courts, neither are you to ours.' •' I inquired if he had been present at my first visit, would he have opposed my fishing ? He re~ plied, ' I cannot now say what I would have done ; but suppose if I had not opposed there would be plenty of English vessels here next season, which would ne^'er do.' He then entered into the aflkir at Cod Roy respecting the salmon fishery, stating that Mr. Hunt's men beat oflf the Frencli crew with their fish, and declared he would find means to punish them if they did so again. I replied that Mr. Hunt's men were salmon fishers, and that the French had not any right to that branch of the fisheries ; ' No comprehend what you say' — in fact, he would not, therefore I retired from the interview, and on the following morning abandoned all further attempt at a fishery there, and shaped my course towards St. John's, where I arrived a few days after. " From the numerous interviews I had with the merchants and the naval commanders, it was appa- rent that they considered the cod fishery on that coast as their own, and that they would not consent to any competition, unless an equivalent were granted DISPUTED UIOHT OK FISHERY. 265 them : hence the orders issued by the ministers, the copy of which, handed me by the Commodore, was similar to that displayed by Captain Lavoe : — viz. That the Americans were to he driven from the coast, and the British not to be countenanced in greater num- bers than tvere necessary for the security of the French property in the winter. The absolute right of salmon fishery did not appear to be so strenuously insisted on as that of the cod ; indeed from the contest at Cod Roy, immediately within their own limits, and the evasive reply of the Commodore on the question respecting it, together with other circumstances, it did not appear to me, that they considered they had any right to the brooks, or the shores of the har- bours, other than that of catching and curing cod fish thereon. " To the soil they had not any claim, further than that portion necessary for the purposes of their fishery. To insure sutficient space for that purpose they have invariably selected the best and most capacious situa- tions in each harbour, and by occupying the whole front, preclude the possibility of any other person approaching the situation selected for this scene of their business. " The coast abounds with timber of very excellent description for the purposes of the fishery. The land is good, for the most part producing every species of grass spontaneously, and in great abundance, free from bogs, and not a rush to be found on it or any portion of it. Indeed I could not discover any that could be deemed marshy, or at all approaching to it. " A long period has since elapsed without any ■uJ 266 NEWFOUNDLAND. i \ ^ ? t I' • " '■ fft i'^ 'Mm benefit resulting- to thin community, as the fruit of the expedition, which was sent forth iit some con- siderable expense t) the merchants at ^t. John's. (Signed) " Wm. Swkktland." " To Geo. R. Robinson, Esq. M.P. London." The practical effect of the claims enforced by the French of exclusive rights on our coast, and which as justly may be claimed on the coast of Sussex, is the virtual cession of the larger and better half of Newfoundland to France, for from Cape Ray to the Quirpon Islands, not ten British settlers are to be found, although the land is well adapted for cultiva- tion and pasturage. It remains to be seen whether the vital in- terests of the nation are still to be subservient to party j)nrposes and disgraceful petty squabbles. If a Cromwell now wielded the destinies of Albion, there would be no necessity to spend months and yeprs in consult'ng law oncers, — the British flag would have been protected by its artillery, and woe to the Frencliraun or American who dare to insult it ; indeed, I am ashamed of being necessitated to print the foregoing humiliating facts, and so will every true Briton be to read them. fruit of lorne con- [ohn's. CTLAND. CIIAITER II. ctl bv the nd which ■'ussex, is er half of lay to the eire to be ar cultiva- vital in- servient to ibbles. If if Albion, onths and ritish flag and woe ) insult it ; ;d to print will every PHYSICAL ASPKCT— COAST LINE — IIAnnOUKH — ISLANDS- IIUADOR COAST—GEOLOOY AND CLIMATE. I, A ■ IjITTle is known of the interior of this vast islnnd, which stands on an immense bank, in Icnirtb it (jOO miles, with a breadth of about 200 niili with soundings varying from twenty-five to i •• five fathoms ; the base being a mass of solid rock, with abrupt fissures, &c. Tliere are apparently two banks, the outer one lies within the parallels of 44° 10' and 47° 30' north latitude, and the meridians 44° 15' and 45° 25' west longitude, with soundings from 100 to 160 fathoms. This bank appears to be a continuation of the Great Bank , and a succession may be observed the whole way to Nova Scotia. Newfoundland ii^ in shape nearly triangular, the apex thereof being to the northward, and the base extending east and west from Cape Ray to Cape Race. Like the Nova Scotia shores, and for a reason similar to the one given under that chapter, the coast is everywhere indented, at intervals of two or three miles, by broad and deep bays, innumerable harbours, coves, creeks, and rivers. The island all round is rocky (with pebbly beaches), generally covered with wood down to the water's edge, and with some lofty headlands on the south-west side. ' ii ,—....•.»«. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I i~ us 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 il.6 Hiotcgraphic Sciences Corporation 7 ^ // A f/. 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ) tf. 268 NEWFOUNDLAND. I A, '' m pii Beginning at the south-east part, Newfoundland is formed into a peninsula of twenty-six leagues in length, and five to twenty in breadth, by two large bays, the heads of which are separated by an isthmus not exceeding four miles in width. This peninsula has five large bays, and several smaller ones, and is that part of the island named by Sir George Calvert, afterwards Lord Baltimore, Avalon. To the north of Avalon, and on the eastern side of the island, lies Trinity Bay, between 47° 55' and 48° 37' north latitude. This bay nearly divides the old province of Avalon from the rest of Newfound- land ; separated from the Bay of Bonavista by a narrow neck of land; it has on the north side Trinity Harbour, Ireland's Eye, and Long Harbour ; to the south-west, Bull's Bay and Islands, and Tickle Harbour ; to the south Chapel Bay ; to the east and north-east Heart's Delight, Heart's Con- tent, &c. ; and from thence through the Harbours of New Pelican and Old Pelican, we pass Break-heart Point, leading to the Point of Grates. Round this point, about three miles from Concep- tion Bay, lies the small Island of Baccalao, an insu- lated rock, where an extraordinary number of birds congregate to hatch their young — these are called Baccalao birds; and from their continual scream being heard a considerable distance at sea, and serving as a warning to mariners during the con- stant fogs, the different governors (in. former years) have issued proclamations imposing severe penalties on such as should molest them. Conception Bay ranks as the first district in New- ! '< ( CONCEPTION BAY AND HARBOUR GRACE. 269 trict in New- foundland, not only from its numerous commodious harbours, coves, &c., but from the spirit and enter- prise of its inhabitants. Harbour Grace is the prin- cipal town of this district ; Carbonear, or Collier's Harbour is the next in importance, but its harbour, though spacious, is not considered at all seasons secure ; besides these there are several considerable settlements, as far up the bay as Holy Rood, formed by the deep inlets, separated by perpendicular rocks, which run out into the sea for two or three leagues, though they are not a mile in breadth. The scenery on this part of the coast is majestic, wild, and calcu- lated to strike the beholder with awe. According to the journal with which I have been favoured by the Royal Geographical Society, it is stated, that on the 10th of September, the Favourite arrived off Harbour Grace, in Conception Bay, after sailing along ' a nice English-looking coast, studded with many fishing establishments.' Harbour Grace is a good port ; and the town is considerable, and of a respectable appearance. Conception Bay, in which it is situate, is the richest and most populous country district in Newfoundland, containing altogether about 25,000 inhabitants. They are distributed in a number of small towns, or fishing and agricultural hamlets ; near another of which, Port de Grave, a remarkable basin is hollowed out in the clifls by the action of frost, or the more certain operation of time, in de- caying the slate clay, of which the rocks are com- posed. First a circle is entered, twenty feet wide by twenty high : and beyond is the basin itself, which is about 300 feet in circumference, and surrounded 270 NEWFOUNDLAND. !* ill by perpendicular rocks 120 feet in height, with a border of dwarf spruce at top. At one corner a little exit, among broken masses of rock, carries off the superfluous water ; the depth near the centre of the cavity is about fourteen feet. On leaving Har- bour Grace, Captain Robinson observes, ' I have been much pleased with my visit to this port. The har- bour is good, and though the space between the end of the bar and the north shore is rather narrow, a large ship, well handled, may beat through or back and fill in and out with the tide. Approaching the town from the northward you pass a large house su- tmnded bv some considerable trees, which has an English appearance ; as has also the little town, with its parsonage in the centi e of a pretty garden, and weather-beaten church, bearing an antique, un- Newfoundlandish air.* On the eastern side of Conception Bay there are several islands, amongst which is Bell Isle (six miles long), so called from the shape of a remarkable rock close to its western side. This island is distant from Harbour Grace about twelve, and from Portugal Cove about four miles ; and the soil, consisting of a loose deep black earth, is so extremely fertile as seldom to require manure *le wheat yields twenty- fold, potatoes fifteen, and . ais, hay, and vegetables thrive remarkably well. Portugal Cove is the only settlement of any consequence on the east side, but unlike most other positions it has no safe harbour, and only an open roadstead, rendered dangerous for the fishing craft in bad weather. The Cape of St. Francis, the eastern boundary of Wa CAPE OF ST. FRANCIS. 271 I boundary of Conception Bay, is distant seven leagues from St. John's Harbour; four leagues lower is Torbay, a fishing station ; and three leagues further is St. John's. The harbour is one of the best in the island, being formed between two mountains, the eastern points of which leave an entrance, called the Narrows. From the circumstance of the harbour being only acce£3ible by one very large ship at a time, and from the numerous fortifications and batteries erected for its protection, St. John's is a place of considerable strength. The Narrov/s, which is the only assail- able part, is so well guarded that any vessel attempt- ing to force an entrance would be inevitably sunk. There is a signal post on the top of a lofty hill, on the right of the entrance of the Narrows, which tele- graphs to the town the arrival of every vessel that passes, where from, and the length of passage. There are about twelve fathoms water in the middle of the channel, with tolerably good anchorage ground. The most lofty perpendicular precipices rise to a con- siderable height upon both sides, but the southern shore has rather the greater altitude, only from a comparison with the opposite rocks. There is a light shown every night at Fort Amherst on the left side side of the entrance, where there is also a signal post, whence the ships that pass are hailed and signals made to the hill before-mentioned, which repeats them to the Government House and the Town : other batteries of greater strength appear towering above the rocky eminences towards the north. At about two-thirds of the distance between 272 NEWFOUNDLAND. la ' i'i ) \\ \H the entrance, and, what may properly be termed the harbour itself, there lies a dangerous shelf, called the Pancake, opposite the Chain Rock, so named from a chain which extends across the strait at that place, to prevent the admission of any hostile fleet. Mariners on entering the place ought to beware of approaching too near the rocks, on the larboard-hand inside the light-house point. In addition to the for- tiiications already noticed, there are several other strong fortresses upon the heights around the town, so as to render the place perfectly secure against any sudden attack. Fort Townshend is situated immediately over the town, and was the usual residence of the governor. During the government of Sir Thomas Cochrane a new house, offices, &c. have been erected for the ac- commodation of his Excellency, the first estimate for which was under nine thousand pounds, but there is reason to believe the actual cost of the buildings amounts to little less, if not full, fifty thousand pounds ! A precious legacy for successive gover- nors, and to the colony a monument of extrava- gance and folly. Fort William is more towards the north ; and there is also a small battery perched on the top of a single pyramidical mount, called the Crow's Nest. The south-east limits of St. John's Bay is formed by Cape Spear, about four miles from the Narrows. Petty Harbour is a fishing station of some impor- tance, as is also the Bay of Bulls about seven leagues from the mouth of the harbour. This last is difficult of access on account of some sunken rocks, '-■ ; iifji CAPE RACE AND TREPASSEY BAY. 273 but once in vessels are landlocked and will ride in safety, About thirty miles from St. John's is Cape Broyle Harbour, and Ferryland ; these with Aqua- fort, Fermews, and Renews Harbour, all fishing stations, are the only settlements of any consequence on this part of the coast as far as Trepassy Bay. Cape Race, from the south-east point of Newfound- land, in 46' 43' north lutitude, and 52° 49' west longitude. About twenty leagues to the south-east of which are the Virgins or Cape Race rocks, so much dreaded by mariners * ; at the same distance to the westward are two points frequently mistaken for Cape Race in approaching the land from the southward. From the latter, called on this account Mistaken Point, to Cape Ray, the coast is indented by harbours and coves, and also lined with a vast number of small islands, and here the fishing is carried on to a great extent, the soundings fifty or sixty leagues from the shore never exceeding 100 fathoms. Trepassey Bay (formerly called Abram Trepaza), which has a large secure harbour and excellent an- chorage, lies about seven leagues north-west of Cape Race, Biscay Bay being to the north-east, and Sail- ing Bay to the north-west. Six miles from the latter is Cape Pine, and further north-west Cape Freels and Blackhead, leading to St. Mary's Bay. A con- • The Virgin Rocks have been recently surveyed by one of his Majesty's vessels, and their position accurately laid down. There is said to be four fathoms water on the shoalest, on which however, in bad weather, a vessel would soon be dashed to pieces. NOVA SCOTIA. T 274 NEWFOUNDLAND. i!< I siderable fishery is carried on in the coves and har- bours indenting this bay, which receives the Salmon River. CoHnet Harbour is separated from Concep- tion Bay at Holy Rood, by an isthmus only four or five leagues broad. Placentia Bay, which is about sixty miles deep and forty-five broad, lies between Cape St. Mar^ and Cape Rouge, which are fifteen leagues apart. It is very spacious, with several rugged islands near its head. The port and town of Placentia lie on the eastern side ; and the chief harbour, which can only be entered by one ship at a time, aflibrds anchorage for 150 vessels. North Harbour is situated at the upper extremity of Placentia Bay, the western side of which contains many harbours, the principal of which are Marasheen Island, Ragged Island, and Mortier's Rocks. From the head of Placentia Bay to Trinity Bay, there is a small low isthmus, not more than three miles in length, across which the fishermen during the time the French had possession, hauled their skiflfs over ways laid for the purpose ; it is this isthmus which connects the peninsula of Ava- lon with the main body of the island. The French paid much attention to their settlement on the east side of Placentia Bay, which they strongly fortified with the hope of driving the English entirely from the fisheries of Newfoundland. May Point terminates the peninsula which sepa- rates Placentia Bay from Fortune Bay. From May Point to Cape La Hune is seventeen leagues, and in this place lies Fortune Bay (sixty to seventy miles deep, and twenty to thirty broad), which receives CAPE RAY AND DAY OF ISLANDS. 27i5 several rivers from the island lakes, ami contains many harbours, the principal of which is Fortune Harbour, on the eastern side. St. Pierre and Mi- quelon Islets, which our wise statesmen ceded to France in 1814, lie off the mouth of Fortune Bay: they are high and rugged. St. Peter's has a har- bour, which is the rendezvous of the French ships, and the residence of the governor. Along the south side, from Cape La Hune, are several bays and is- lands named after some striking incidents ; thus, to the eastward, are Devil's Bay, Bay of Rencounter, Mast Head Cape, Burgio Island, &c. Cape Ray forms the north-east entrance of the river St. Lawrence, from whence to Anguille, or Eel Cape, the coast is wild and dangerous, having but one harbour, called Little Harbour, about five miles from Cape Ray ; the Great Cod river disembogues itself between those two capes. Round Eel Cape the coast trends to the north-east as far as St. George's Harbour, which lies in a deep bay of the same name, into which several rivers, emerging from the lakes in the interior, empty themselves. To the north-west of St. George's Harbour is an isthmus called Port au Port ; from this part attempts have been made to ex- plore the interior of the island with greater success than elsewhere, and it is found to be mo ;tainous, and to abound in rivers, extensive lakes, and grassy plains. Bay of Islands is formed of three arms, through which the rivers empty themselves. One of these, called the Humber, is the most considerable yet dis- covered, its course having been traced for 114 miles T 2 276 NKWFOITNDLAND. '»! 'I 1 I' ! i. ',?. I li. to the north-westward, where it issues from a cape of ten leagues in length. In this bay are several islands, named Pearl, Tweed, Harbour Island, &c. From Bonne Bay, which has also rivers commu- nicating with the lakes inland to Point Rich, there is no harbour but that called Ingornachoix Bay, which contains Hawke's Harbour and Port Saunders. To the north, round Point Rich, is Saint John's Bay, which receives the waters of Castor's River. Beyond Point Ferolle, the northern boundary of Saint John's Bay are a few inconsiderable inlets along the straits of Belleisle, which separate Newfoundland from the adjoining coast cf Labrador, and are in length about fifty miles by twelve broad ; the coast is not indented. Cape Norman, twenty leagues beyond Point Ferrole, is the n9rth-we8t point of Newfoundland, and has on its east side a large bay called Pistolet Bay, bounded by Burnt Cape. We next come to Quirpon Island and Harbour, the northern point of Newfoundland, with Griquet Bay and Saint Anthony's Harbour. Hare Bay is a deep gulph, the bottom of which inter- sects the island for two-thirds of its breadth at this point, branching off into innumerable bays and coves, sheltered by lofty hills. From this harbour to White Bay, and thence to Cape St. John, the coast is in- dented at short distances by commodious and much- frequented harbours, (Packet Harbour is the southerly limited station on the north-east shore where the French were allowed to catch and cure their fish, and from which the English are now excluded.) The Bay of Exploits, which is of great extent, contains a vast number of Islands, and a thriving LABRADOR COAST. •277 Bettlement called Twilingate. The river Exploits, vrhich connects the Red Indian Lake with the ocean, is about seventy miles long ; its navigation is ob- structed by several rapids, some of which run at the rate of ten miles an hour. There are important salmon fisheries carried on in both these bays and rivers. Gander Bay is much of the same description, and has also a flourishing settlement. From Cape St. John to Cape Freels, the whole coast is one uninterrupted continuation of ledges, shallows, islands, and rocks ; but affording excellent fishing grounds. Bonavista Cape and Bay contains several islands, the most valuable of which are Green Pond Islands. It has also many small bays, such as Indian, Logger* head, and Bloody Bay ; besides Barrow Harbour, Keels-King's Cove, and Bonavista, and several other hays and harbours uninhabited. South of Bonavista is Catalina Bay, containing Ragged Harbour, which concludes the circuit of the island; of the interior it may be said that lakes, rocks, marshes and extensive alluvial savannahs, or plains, with occasional elevations, form its general features. There are also some mountains, but of their actual position, extent, or height, we as yet know nothing. Labrador Coast. — We know yet less of this vast wild and sterile region than of the adjacent island of Newfoundland, to whose Government it belongs. It may be said to extend from 50 to the 61st degree of north latitude, and from 5C (on the Atlantic) to 78 t » 1- I I I il I »■ I a 11 I i j 'U t; ■ !■ ■ » ; ' ' ' t dikl .oLii 278 NEWFOUNDLAND. (on Hudson's Bay) west longitude, the prevailing features being rocks, swnmps, nnd mountains. Previous to entering the straits of Belleisle, there are several good harbours on a rocky shore, but in the straits the coast is iron bound. Nullatarlok Bay. in 59"^ north latitude, is surrounded by high moun- tains which are covered with moss, alder, birch, and various shrubs and plants, and when visited by the Moravian Missionaries ' in July, the valleys were grassy, and enamelled with a great variety of flowers. The rocks were slaty, easily splitting into plates of from four to eight feet square. At Nachvak Bay the sea was clear of ice in the middle of July, and the magnificent mountains around afforded to the mis- sionaries a most enchanting prospect. Oppernavik, lying between the GOth and Gist degrees north lati- tude, is not far distant from Cape Chudleigh, where the coast, which was hitherto north, now trends to ' These excellent nnd truly Christian people have several settlements on the inclement shores of Labrador ; the principal station is at Nain, on the north shore, to wliich the brethren send a vessel every year laden witii provisions, &c. At Nain, there are four missionaries ; Okkak, tliree missionaries ; Heb- ron, five missionaries ; and Hopedale, four missionaries. The total number of brethren is twenty-nine j and there are 896 Esquimaux converts, of whom about 320 are communi- cants. I most earnestly recommend the Moravian mission to the support of every Christian — of every philanthropist — and every man whose heart beats high on witnessing noble efforts for the enlightenment of the most degraded portion of our species. Nothing but the purest Christianity could enable the Moravian missionaries to dwell in Labrador. (See Climate). LABRADOR COAST. GKOLOOV. 1279 the »outh-8outh-west, forming Ungava Bay. The river Kangertluksoak, in latitude riS"^ 57' north, \» about 140 miles south-south-west of Cape ('hudleij'h. The estuary of the Koksook lies in r»«'^ 3G' north latitude, at the distance of about G5() miles from the Moravian station Okkak, and is as broad as the Thames at Gravesend. Some distance up the river is a bay, surrounded on all sides by gently rising ground, well wooded with trees of moderate i?ize. A fine slope extends for about half a mile, bounded on each extremity by a hill. The land is described by the Moravians as level and dry, well watered by several rivulets issuing from the woods, in which were found various Eu- ropean plants and flowers, — diflferent kinds of shrubs, such as junipers, currants, &c., and grass and trees in abundance. The missionaries were informed that further west no wood grows along the coast, lliis is the only obtainable information of the Labrador coast, whose geology is thus described in the docu- ment with which I have been favoured by the Geo- graphical Society. Geology. — The prevailing rock on the Labrador coast is gneis. On this at Lanse k Loup, a bed of old red sandstone is super-ground, about 200 feet thick, and extending above half a mile inland. Here also, as on every other part of the coast of Labrador visited by the Favorite, the appearance of the cliffs, and of the land near them, and the rolled masses inland, which have evidently been exposed to the action of the sea, seem to prove that this has con- siderably receded. The sandstone is generally red 1^ 280 NEWFOUNDLAND. It jl i 'i ^H w ■ -ii % fV and white, in alternate stripes, and presents a re- markable mural front to the sea. Near the surface it was strongly marked with iron. The whole of the rock was composed of white quartz and yellow fel- spar ; and the grains were generally as fine as oat- meal, though occasionally coarser, even to the extent of half an inch in diameter. Both coarse and fine bear marks of being a mechanical deposit, being per- fectly distinct, without the least appearance of amal- gamation ; only a few exceptions occurring to this remark. Over the red sandstone was a thin stratum of red compact felspar, containing vegetable impressions, and also horizontal. Above this were varieties of secondary limestone, arranged in parallel strata seve- ral feet thick, and full of shells. Detached masses of primitive limestone were also found ; and a few miles from the shore the secondary formations generally disappeared^ leaving gneis and mica slate on the sur- face. North of Cape Charles on the Labrador coast the land falls back to the westward, and the shore changes its character, becoming shoal, and running off in fiats; whereas to the southward it is bold and abrupt. The prevailing rock, however, is still gneis, contain- ing numerous veins of granite, from a few inches to many feet in thickness, the constituent parts being highly crystallized plates of grey mica four or five inches in diameter, very transparent quartz, and finely reticulated white felspar. The diameter and dip of the gneis rock is here, as elsewhere on the coast, to the north-west, and at an angle of nearly 65 degrees. LABRADOR COAST — GEOLOGY. 281 It is coarse and dark, hornblende taking the place of mica ; and frequently very light greyish felspar form- ing the chief constituent. Where this occurs, the face of the hill has a remarkable spotted appearance. On one of the islands which here skirt the coast, a large bed of primitive greenstone was found, forming a range of hills resting on the gneis, and appearing to have the same direction. On the western part of these islands also the gneis gives place to mica slate, this commencing beyond the above mentioned range of greenstone, which appears to mark the line of demarcation between them. The mica slate then predominates through all the islands and shores exa- mined to the wcotward of this point : — viz. to the Mealy Mountains in Sandwich Bay, a distance of about thirty-five miles. In some places crystals of garnet are very abundant in it : and in others con- siderable beds of granite were found, of confused ap- pearance, and in wnich quartz and felspar predomi- nated. The Mealy Mountains are the highest land on this coast, and were computed to be about 1484 feet high, covered nearly to the top with wood, not- withstanding the severity of the climate. They are of mica slate, with a dark, fine-grained formation of the same, resembling basalt, at their base. The ge- neral rock is coarse grained. At the foot of these mountains were also found beds eight, and ten feet thick, and large rolled masses, of a remarkable con- glomerate rock, of which the basis was composed of grains of mica, quartz, and felspar ; and the imbedded masses were large rounded pebbles of quartz, mica slate, felspar, horneblende, granite, and gneis. The \-i il ( i :|j ''R 1 H 'i j i ( !' '^ ' [■H m ^ t^B • ^fl ■ ^ If ■ ,i ^■1 1 1 m mm ^HH 282 NEWFOUNDLAND. ! fi ilf' n i 1 ii whole was so hard as to be with difficulty broken, striking fire under the hammer. The imbedded frag- ments were all water- worn *. The geology of the contiguous island of Newfound- land is of the same features as that on the Labrador coast. The former abounds, it is said, with minerals of various sorts. The oldest inhabitants assert, that Conception Bay contains mines of several eorts. At the head of Chapel Cove there is a coal mine : a lime kiln was erected in that neighbourhood some years back, and worked with tolerable success. There is said to be an iron mine on the northern side of Belle- isle, and another at Harbour Grace ; and many of them affirm that there is a copper mine near St. John's, which has actually been worked by Cornish miners brought out for that purpose. There is also a quantity of that mineral called marcasite, copperas stone, and horse gold, (and which some of the earlier discoverers mistook for the genuine metal,) found about Catalina Harbour. Coal has been found on the banks of the Humber, and there are excellent gypsum quarries near Cape Ray. Although a large part of the island consists of plains studded with rocks, and termed " barrens," there is a considerable extent of alluvial soil capable of growing wheat and other grains. Springs of fresh water everywhere * The current sets generally, perhaps ten months out of the twelve, to the southward along the coast ; the tides rise six feet to the northward ; about four to the southward. The prevailing winds are from west-south-west to north-west ; there is less fog than further south, and the Straits of Belleisle were frozen over. .' 1 1 CURATE. 283 abound, d the island is well adapted for the pas- turage cf iiorned cattle on an extensive scale. Climate. — The climate of Newfoundland varies according to the locale of the island, whether north or south ; and the weather, although severe, is less fierce than that of Lower Canada ; while, during a long winter, the brilliancy of the Aurora Borealis, and the splendid lustre of the moon and stars give peculiar beauty to the atmosphere. The most re- markable feature connected with Newfoundland is the fogs on its banks and neighbouring shores. The fogs of the Gulf of St. Lawrence are attributed to the coldness of the gulf waters, which is believed to be constant a few feet below the surface as well as at great depths ; every gale of wind brings this cold water to the surface, by which the temperature of the air is reduced below the dew point, Bt which suspended vapours become visible and precipitated. Those on the Banks of Newfoundland are most probably caused by the cold deep water flowing from the Poles to the Equator, being forced to the surface there in conse- quence of the interruption given by the banks to its course towards the southward. The surface water on the Great Bank is many degrees colder than the surface of the neighbouring sea, and much less than that of the gulf stream, which is within a short dis- tance. The fogs on the Banks of Newfoundland, and even in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, are sometimes so dense, that in fine, almost calm weather, with the sun shin- ing over head, two vessels pass each other unseen, while the voices of persons talking can be heard •n '? %f 284 NEWFOUNDLAND. •}■} / 1. r ' ■ I from either ship. The fog appears to lie on the sur- face of the water, for when near land, an observer from the mast head may descry it quite distinctly, while on deck no object within a few yards distance is visible. The fogs are not generally attended with rain, but the decks are often kept wet, and the higher masts and rigging collect the condensed moisture of the atmosphere in large drops. In the early part of summer, when the waters have not acquired a temperature approaching that of the air, a peculiar mirage is observable off Newfoundland and in the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; during its early existence the line of trees with which the hills are covered, seem raised much above the level of the rest, resembling a lofty hedge row ; this, however, is soon lost, as all the trees apparently attain the same height, giving the appearance of an immense table, stretching from hill to hill ; the shores in the mean- time assume the semblance of a great wall, and the island seems girt with a similar inclosure, or bounded with precipices all round ; their tops also look flat like tables, and the small islands often assume a flower-pot shape. Dr. Kelly observed one instance in the river St. Lawrence, where the islands of Bic and Bicquette appeared to join — their wooded tops to meet, leaving an arch, beneath which the waters seemed to flow. On the beach the spray seems to rise in foam to the tops of these imaginary cliffs, while the houses, &c., attain a similar height. Ships, according to their distance, present different eleva- tions, sometimes rising to twice their real height, at others the masts reach only a few feet from the deck ; CLIMATK. LONGEVITY. 2S5 sometimes the upper sails seem double — a second set being seen at a considerable height above the first — while again a second vessel's huil, sails and all, is seen above the first ; but in no instance is inversion observed, and the object thus refracted is always visible to the naked eye. The fogs do not appear to be injurious to health. The longevity of the inhabi- tants is indeed the best proof of the salubrity of Newfoundland ; in no country is old age attended with greater bodily vigour and mental animation. There are instances of fishermen 100 years of age being ac- tively employed in the arduous duties of their calling. The Archdeacon of Newfoundland thus describes his feelings during a tour through part of the island in winter. • We pitched for the night near the Bay of East- brook. A description of the process of making our temporary place of rest for this night may suffice for the description of our similar arrangements during the week. The snow being at least ten feet deep, a rude shovel is first cut out of the side of some stand- ing tree, which is split down with a wedge made for the purpose. Snow does not adhere to wood as it does to an iron shovel, consequently a wooden shovel is preferable for the purpose of shovelling out the snow. The snow is then turned out for the space of eight or ten feet square, according to the number of the company which requires accommodation. When the snow is cleared away, quite to the ground, the wood is laid on the ground for the fire. About a foot of loose snow is left in the cavern round the fire. On this the spruce or fir branches, which break ofT •286 ! : < NEWFOUNDLAND. m ,1 iJ ■ i :■ ;':( very easily when bent hastily back downwards, are laid all one way, featherwise, with the lower part of the bough upwards. Thus the bed is made. Some of these boughs are also stuck upright on the snow against the wall of snow by the side of the cavern, and a door or opening is left in the wall of snow for the bringing in during the night the birch-wood for burning, which is piled up in heaps close by for the night's supply, that any who may be awake during the night may bring it in as it is required. Here the traveller lies with no covering from the weather, or other shelter than the walls of snow on each side of his icy cavern and surrounding trees may supply. Of course as the laborious exercise during the day is sufficiently heating, and he is unwilling unnecessarily to increase his burden, he has no great coat or cloak for wrapping up at night. A yellow fungus which gi'ows on the wich-hazel supplies tinder to the Indian, who is never without flint and steel, and he is re- markably expert in vibrating moss and dry leaves and birch bark rapidly through the air in his hands, which, soon after the application of a spark, ignite, and make a cheerful blaze. One who passes a night in the woods in the winter must halt by four p.m., for by the time the hole in the snow is dug, and a sufficient number of trees are felled, and cut up to serve for the supply of fuel for the night, it will have become dark. One of these resting-places, in which the snow was deeper than usual, reminded me of a remarkable sight which I had witnessed at Bermuda. There the sand, which was driven by the wind from a neighbouring bank or shoal, was making such rapid '4y: DESCRIPTION OF A TOUR 287 encroachments on the cedar groves, upon a certain part of the main, that several cedars were covered nearly to their tops by the sand which was gradually accumulating about them, clogging their brunches, and threatening eventually to cover them. Here, as the fire melted our cave away, and enlarged our chamber of ice, branches of verdant spruce, fresh as when first covered in October and November, came forth to view several feet below the surface of the snow, as the cedar branches were observed to do from the sand in Bermuda.' * * This philanthropic clergyman proceeds to say — * The Indians dress their venison on skewers of wood, which they stick in the ground around the fire. They plaited for me a basket-like mat, of small spruce boughs, to serve as a plate. In this they served me the deer's heart, as the most delicate part of the animal, The intense cold made the trees crack, with a report, in the silence of the night, as though struck with an axe ; my watch also, under the same influence, became of little use, a most serious incon- venience when traversing the country in a season when the davs are so short, and a little miscalculation may occasion the traveller's being benighted before he is prepared. * * ' Tuesday, April 7. — The whole three of us were affected with a gritty, gravelly sensation in the eye, and were, at length, completely deprived of the power of sight. Our provisions too over which the Indian who was cook, had, with tue usual improvidence of his race, not been sufficiently economical, were just out. In a country which abounds with game, and 288 NEWFOUNDLAND. in which it is so difficult to travel even without any burden, none think of carrying provisions for more than a day or two into the interior with them ; but neither the pilots nor I could now see sufficiently to use a gun, or bear indeed to look upwards. The Indian did try, but he came back without success, although he met with many fresh tracks of deer, and heard many partridges, and in the course of the night, deer had evidently passed within twenty yards of our retreat. It became so thick, moreover, that, had we been ever so little affected with snow-blind- ness, we could not have seen more than a few yards, and could not consequently have made any way in an unknow^n country. Our Indian guide, while he was in search of deer, nearly lost all track of us, when, our allowance of food becoming exceedingly scanty, our situation seemed likely to be very de- plorable. All Tuesday we rested in our icy cham- ber. * * ' Some natural tears may have mingled with the water which the acrid vapour from the smoke of the damp wood (for it now rained) forced from my eyes, as I thought of the probable anxiety of my dear wife, and of the likelihood that all my dreams of future useful labours in the church might be thus fatally dissipated. It was at length hinted by the Indian, that my dog might make a meal ; and it is as much that they may serve in such a season of ex- tremity, as for any fondness which they have for the animal, or use they generally make of them, that In- dians are usually attended by dogs of a mongrel breed. Had my Indian pilot known the coast, we CLIMATE. 289 might have got to some Indian wigwams in White Bear Bay, but he did not like to attempt reaching that bay. * * " Wednesday, 8. — This morning, on finding the weather still thick, I divided the bread-dust and crumbs, all which now remained of our provisions, not amounting altogether to more than two biscuits, into three parts, and gave a part to each of my guides, reserving a like share for myself; and, as I had not the patent apparatus with me for extracting bread from saw-dust, though I saw the danger which must attend our moving in such thick weather, and blind as we all were, I perceived that we must either make an effort to return, or must starve where we were. I proposed, therefore, to the Indian pilot, that we should try to return to the spot where we had left so much ven'.son buried. At first he hesitated ; but at length he agreed that we should attempt it. A black gauze veil, which I had kept over my eyes when the sun was at its height, and the resolution to which I had adhered of not rubbing my eyes, had preserved me, perhaps, from suff'ering so much from sun- blindness as my companions. Maurice Louis, the Indian, would open his eyes now and then to look at ray compass ; we could not see for fog more than 100 yards ; he would fix on some object as far as the eye could reach, and then shut his eyes again, when I would lead him up. to it. On reaching it he would open his eyes again, and we would, in the same manner, take a fresh departure. * * By forced marches, — the snow now being soft, and nearly the entire distance to be travelled in rackets, in conse* NOVA SCOTIA. U 290 NEWFOUNDLAND. »?f. '' h I !■ ;. i f-i quence of which we could not make the same expe- dition which we did as we came along, — we were providentially enabled to reach by seven or eight P.M. the same places at which we had halted at four each day on our outward march. Thus, a degree of labour, that of digging and clearing, to which we were now quite unequal, was spared us on our way back. The small quantity of biscuit to which we were now reduced, led me to advise my companions not to eat any quantity at a time, but to take a piece of the size of a nutmeg when hunger was most craving. We did, indeed, gather each day on our return, about as many partridge berries as would fill a wine-glass a-piece. These we found very refreshing and nutri- tive. Having been ripened in the fall of last year, and been sheltered under the snow all the winter, they were, now that the snow had melted away from them, like preserved fruit in flavour, and resembled a rich clarety grape." * * On the coast of Labrador the winter is extremely sevore, the thermometer often falling 30° below the freezing point, and although the houses of the Mo- ravian Missionaries are heated by large cast iron stoves, the windows and walls are all the winter covered with ice, and the bed clothes freeze to the walls ; rum is frozen in the air as rapidly as water, and rectified spirits soon become thick like oil. From December to June the sea is so completely frozen over that no open water is to be seen. Some of the missionaries ventured once in February to visit some Esquimaux, forty miles distant, and although wrapped in furs, they were nearly destroyed; their eyelids \ r i1 : '.^ Hi:: ANIMAL KINGDOM. 291 froze together in such a manner thfit they were con- tinually obliged to pull them asunder, and by constant rubbing prevent their closing ; one of them had his hands frozen, and swollen like bladders. The few summer months on this coast are extremely hot, the thermometer rising to 86° of Fahrenheit, when swarms of musquitoes infest the air ; the climate is not, how- ever, insalubrious. Animal Kingdom. — Of the animals, some are of European extraction, the others are native, and, except the dog so celebrated ', common to all the northern regions of British America : the domestic animals appear to thrive well in summer, but in a great measure depend on their owners for subsist- ence through the winter. Among the wild animals, deer are the most valued, on account of their size, number, and utility ; these being undisturbed in the interior, multiply exceedingly. There are also bears, beavers, otters, foxes, hares and martens found in great abundance, and furnish profitable employment to the hunters and furriers. It is said that Newfoundland contains none of those venomous animals or insects which infest other countries, except the gnat, a mosquito which during the summer months is extremely troublesome in or near the woods. Domestic poultry succeeds very well ; land and water wild fowl are found in great abundance, particularly bustards, wild geese, and wild or eider ducks; partridges, snipes, plovers, ^ The genuine black Newfoundland dog, so sagacious and so faithful, is becoming very scarce in the island. u 2 292 NEWFOUNDLAND. til ,1 r ' i I ■ 'J \i 'I I curlews, and bluckbirds arc also in great abundance, as well as eagles, kites, hawks, ravens, and jays. The partridges are like ptarmigans (of an excel- lent flavour) , larger than those in Europe and ulwriyg perfectly white in winter. The most ren;orkaWe of the sea birds which visit the coast of Newfoundland are, the lord and ludy of the teal kind, the saddle- back, gull, tinker, razor-bill, the loon, whabby, and ice bird. Besides the great staple of the island, fish (see commerce), the numerous lakes and ponds which abound produce divers kinds of excellent trout, ind eels of a great size ; the lobsters are uncommonly large and equally good, and the muscles better fla- voured than in Europe. There are no oysters, but lance, herrings, mackerel, and salmon are in great abundance ; besides these, plaice, sole, hullibut, and thornbaek are found on the coast. The cnpelin, which is perhaps the most delicious fish in the world, arrives ])eriodically in such shoals, as to change the colour of the dea, near the coves and beaches, and two persons may easily fill a common si^ed boat in a couple of hours. This fi;sh remains on the coast about six weeks, and is considered the best bait for cod. The herrings also arrive in the spring and autumn in prodigious shoals. TTie salmon fisheries are thus described in the Missionaries' Journal : — " Went this week to visit the salmon fisheries, which are upon the main gut (at Sandy Point). Three or four families reside tiicr; . One night, as some of the people and an Tui^'ni V >^ were ^oing out just at the rise of high tiae, five canoes in all, to .'f SALMON FISIIEIIY AT SANDY POINT. •293 spear trout and eels, I joined them in the excursion. It employed us till an honr or two after midnipht. The scene was an anitnatinp one. A brilliant moon hung over the liills, which Nvere finely wooded, to the very cliffs and -cind at the edge of the water. Bunches of birch bark were packed together, a dozen in each packet : these were stuck one at a time, as required, into a stick which was cleft at the top to let in this rude flambeau, to which a light was applied. The stick with the ignited birch bark was then put upright at the bow of the canoe ; there, also, the man stood up, most insecurely balanced, as would seem, with his nighok, or eel-spear, a pole cleft at the bottom, with a spike inserted. This, on his striking a fish of any size, would open, and admit it till the spike perforated it, and then closing upon it, would press it, and prevent its escape. The sandy or stony bottom of the river in the shallows (for in deeper water this sport cannot be pursued) was seen as clearly as in the day, and every fish in it. The fish seemed at least bewildered, if not attracted by the light ; and the quickness of eye, and adroitness of the man who used the nighok, impelling, as he did, the canoe with the thick end, and every now and then reversing it to strike, were surprising. He struck successfully at eight out of ten of each of the fish at which he aimed, and shook them off into the boat with a sudden turn of his arm, which left him at liberty to strike at two fish Within a second or two. He kept his balance, also, with great niceness, when he seemed to have poised himself so far over the side of the light canoe, that El I mi u, ■ Pi 1 i ■ I I di 294 NEWFOUNDLAND. he must, it seemed to me, have gone overboard, or capsized our crank bark. The hght of the flambeau in the other canoes, as they came round the project- ing points of leafy green, and the shade, as we again lost view of them behind the trees or rocks in the distance, was most imposing. Four hundred trout were thus speared in the canoe in which I was : some of them were of such a size, that they would have been taken, as they frequently are, in the salmon nets. Tn the five canoes, above 1000 were taken in little more than two hours. I had the curiosity to weigh six of them, which together weighed twenty-two pounds, and had a barrel of this night's catch salted, that I might take them with me to St. John's." Potatoes and cabbages are the most valuable pro- ductions of the island, growing in plots or gardens attached to the fishermen's houses. Turnips, car- rots, parsnips, peas, radishes, and most garden roots yield abundantly. Red, black, and white currants, gooseberries, and strawberries, grow in great perfec- tion ; and a smaller kind of strawberry is found wild in the woods : raspberries grow everywhere, and that species of cherry called the Kentish comes to great perfection ; other sorts, as well as damsons, grow abundantly in favourable seasons : besides these, apples and pears are sometimes raised in per- fection. The plains are almost covered with low stunted bushes, which bear a great variety of wild berries. The snake root, capilaire, and wisha cajntcoa, are indi- genous; when in blossom, the latter plant is beautiful. VEGETABLE KINGDOM. 295 It is made by the inhabitants into a decoction, and used after the manner of tea, and said to be ex- tremely wholesome in spring. Another remarkable plant found in the woods is the Suracinia, a full description of which is given in Dr. Thornton's Temple of Flora. Sarsaparilla is also found in the island. The swamps abound with a great variety of reeds and flowers, many of the latter extremely beautiful, such as wild roses, violets, &c. ; but the season for enjoying them is short, for they all come together, and last but a few weeks, which gives rise to the saying common in Newfoundland, " a short feast and a long famine." The timber grown on the island, though generally of no great magnitude, is rendered very useful for the purposes of the fishery, and vessels of consider- able size, varying from 60 to 200 tons each, are built chiefly with native wood. The juniper (or hec- ma-tic) witch hazel, black birch and black spruce are the most esteemed for these purposes : the com- mon fir is not esteemed for building, but very well adapted for casks and other common uses in the fishery. Kelp is abundant all round the coast, and, with other sea-weeds, is used for manure. Zoophytes, or animal flowers (forming the link between the animal and vegetable kingdom), may also frequently be met with. /'/ I ii *., m. \\.\ Mi' \ : ' l.ii. *^f' .^iW^ "iui\ CHAPTER III. POrULATION — GOVERNMENT — FINANCES — COMMERCE — SHIP- I'lNG, IMPORTS AND EXPORTS — FISHERIES — COD AND SEAL — VALUE OF DITTO — PROPERTY — SCHOOLS — THE PRESS — SOCIAL STATE, &C. In consequence of the extensive fisheries carried on along its coasts, the population of Newfoundland necessarily fluctuates, and it is difficult to obtain an exact census. In 1806 the number of mouths were estimated at 26,505. I have obtained two more recent censuses, the one for 1822 from the House of Commons' Library, the other for 1827-8 from the Colonial Office. POPULATION. 297 HERCE — SHIP- ;0D AND SEAL THE PRESS — J carried on jwfoundland ;o obtain an nouths were I two more le House of 8 from the oo I CO Q Z < I CO Q Z < Q Z D O z o z; o ~i ft < C« 1 a . a> VI ? 4) CO^rtFHM ^ MMMFri m p<'5 a> OS «*• "3 «5Cie<5i-it».otor^MOOO 00 o 00 4-4 ;0"5«5t^'»i'*'l^'» »^oo«oi>.!ao»ra-Hinoooo ^^ -S : OOO^^OOCOOOIiOOOOOl «» c4 oj«s-"05eoTt~* ^^ Si > b o lo *r , CO 00i-i*..i^.«O->i3t^N 0^ «^t»»i— 0000i«»OCS'^^-00 »-H u 13 OSWOtO — ^— "^OiOtS «o "B 00 O CO 04 04 1^ 04 1-1 -^ ■* ^ • V ^ 1-^ eo 5 = 1 •a * CiO — ooif5e>i50oi-"oom b* -3 oooj^o — ooi'^iooj "5 60 • a OOOCO^^OOOOCOTt<^^?OI-- •-N tJ • 3 H W 00 ■* lj< 04 — eo r- r-H 04 c3 p^ 1— 1 tr> A ^ ■ 1 '' s CO CO •'5©'»t<00lOt^N.e4'»»<'*«O r-^ c4 •a 1 cstN.c»t>.i>.c0OCie4040^ l-H {A 4> e>i Ci 1 ^ o boa 03 en T».Ot^OO«C50W'»t<0 (O O f— "CO^-oeo-^Cieo-^eoc^ ■* o o-^>oicoo-*we40)^o «>. a-tj 1 a0r>O«OI>-i 04 i-i M eo °1 >r1 U & ; ; i Is 2 V) 'to a t •c .2 P 1 « "c o PC -s c I. c c 4-< c e (U j-d > BC B 1 ^ ■d ^ a M O C S3 M 4) •a J3 .s * MUHnHmbHPUPQh -< Ie 1822, marriages, 516; births, 1675; deaths, 735. In 1827, marriages, 442; births, 1879; deaths, 696. It will be readily conceived, by the great dispro- porticn in number of births over the deaths, how rapidV the population is increasing. Mr. Brooking is of q)inion that the population is now not far from 75,001. 298 NEWFOUNDLAND. fH u i !|i| ' 1 Hhl B i! ^ ': ■ :1 ! ! Iff' ■1 r , ^ A more complete census than either of the fore- going was taken in 1825, and for which I am indebted, along with other documents, to the firm of Robinson, Brooking, & Co. It is thought that in all the southern districts the population has decreased since the peace, but in the neighbourhood of St. .John's, where the soil is more fertile, and where there is a more abundant stock of capital afloat, population lias increased. 25 < •S4UB}S3;OJ'(5 a> •I^^ox e-IC500l^«0iM(M0 — o •n OJ'.foooomsomoo''; — t>» CO Tfi « Mrt Tf o to ■<)< M Tt< I—* ►-< lO *— O-^ 1—" »>.»— "ioO*>. w •8ao}09Jia t^ " e^ 1 1 CO w -H CO CO M —1 « H U ^OOO O^CV-t'OOOCJ ■*< ti "cj jopun rsTTO* ■*s^5>»ooc50inc5 s usjpinij O TTi »>. Tj. T«< — ■» C5 « 30 c: e-i Cc3 • U^ P— 1 F-^ lO »^ ^^ o Ph •SJUBAJ3S LOOCir^ lOco-^-TiincoM'-'t o M J07>0"0(N p^ < CO llSUlOAi ITS r^ CO M ^^ »rt IM ci Cicocvi oot^r^coocsf^^C „ ia < •sassDJjsij^ — C5CO« — OCOtOCiO — 13 00 ev) CO i-i «o CO «>. CO f to ^ r- -f to o ■* o o o o o e «>. c '•-T •SJUBAJ9S uaj^ too — « c:»N.^:— .i>.-r ■*• ♦ CO ■* CO — ' e^i to "M t; 00 e-i CO— «>.•<>• ws^ic- CO >'. ^ HH » ■ H • [Zi -a Em o B4 O Si ^ ^ ;z: en 1 s -■5 c ) o r/3 >> 1 V -* a rt - > c t« 5 0) .t 3 ^ O O t- 2 « S c cu Kipqi,H3-MarjfeC)HSIi i.: r of the fore- which I am to the firm of ought that in 1 has decreased irhood of St. id where there )at, population Orf.o «-» O QO O !>. O C-5 « 00 CO CO M IM ev) ™ ifs C5 o — o to UT 1- _ t>» CO Tt< CO ■«*< >.o in O J-. N -» 00 ■^ CO m CO O -O Cl ^ O 1/5 Ci 3 -^ 00 c: IM r^ r~^ O IM CO ■^ f O >-< O CM « ITS CM ■*! O C5«^0 !o o — o ^^ ec «^ CO T»> (M ►S3 «o '3 o «s o i^ to f Ol o CO s 1^ -^ o lO 4.J 05 ^^ -■^ irs 00 C5 *- » 'M » CO w i^ 5^1 e>i 52 » I'd i : : c : : j; to : ■ " C • "^ ".5 : ■?? . &^H PQ^-d 5|?. t. O o HKfn EARLY SETTLEMENT. 299 Allowing for passengers, 9 GO, the total would be 55,719. The marriages within the year were 500, the births 1,800, and the deaths 750. The number of French on our oion coast of New- foundland, and from ivJdch, thanks to the supineness of the British Government, Englishmen are excluded, is said to amount to 12,000. When Newfoundland was first visited after the general discovery of the continent of America, it was found to contain two distinct races of men — the one termed Red Indian, the other the Esquimaux : both are now almost extinct ; the former perhaps entirely so, as recriminating hostilities were waged between them and the early settlers, who shot and speared each other whenever an occasion presented itself, the narration of which would unnecessarily swell the bulk of this history, without attracting the attention of the general reader. Some Red Indians appeared at a creek in Exploits Bay during the past summer, but their number was small. The destruction of the Red Indians was not, hbw- ever, owing solely to the Europeans, but, in fact, mainly to the exterminating war carried on against the former by the Mic-Mac Indians, who arrived in the island in considerable numbers from Nova Scotia and Cape Breton. From an interesting female of the Red Indians, named Mary March, who was taken to St. John's after her husband was shot at the Bay of Exploits in 1818, a vocabulary of the language used by the aborigines was collected by Captain Hercules Robin- V 1 } s im^ } \ i('J 1 i f 1 s i i] 300 NEWFOUNDLAND. I ■ !ii :m . H- ■ son before referred to ; the most prominent words of which were as follow : — Arms, memayet. Arrow, dogemat. Boy, bukasliamesh. Breast, begomot. Boat or ves- sel, adothe. Blood, izzobauth. Bite, bashudite. Body, haddabothie. Back, possont. Clothes, ihingyam. Codfish, bobboosoret. Cat, abi- desook. Canoe, japathook. Come hither, kooret. Cold, moidewsee. Chin, toun. Deer, osweet. Dog, mammasmeet. Duck, boodowit. Dancing, budiseet. Eye, givinya. Egg, debine. Eat, odvit. Eyebrow, marmeuck. Elbow, moocus. Ear, mooshaman. Fire, woodrat. Feathers, abobidress. Girl, emamooset. Go out, enano. Hand, memet. Hair, dronna. House, mammateek. Heart, begodor. Husband, zathrook. Head, keau- thut gonothin. Hatchet, thingaya. Ice, ozeru. Indian (redj, boeothick. Iron, mowa- zeenite. Knee, hodamishit. Kiss, widumite. Leg, aduse. Lip, coish. Lie down, bituwaite. Leaves, madyna. Man, bukashaman. Mouth, mamesook. Moon, kius and washewiush. Nose, geen. Nails, quish. Neck and throat, iede- sheet. Oil, emet. Rain, bathue. Rat, gadgemish. Shoes, moosin. Smoke, besdic. Seal, bedesook. Spoon, adadiminte. Sleep, isedoweet. Sword, bedi- M! ■IV ' linent words ick, boodowit. ESQUIMAUX DWELLING. 301 soni. Salmon, wasemook. Swimming, thoowidgee. Singing, awoodet. Shoulders, momezemethon. Sorrow, corrasoob. Teeth, bofomet outhermayet. Tickle, kaduishnite. Thank you, thine. Tongue, memasuck. Thunder, barodiisick. Thumb, pooeth. Woman, amamoose. Water, ebautho. Watch, ruis. Wife, osuk Walk, woothyat. Wind, gidgeathue. Wolf, moisamadrook. Wood, adiab. Numbers. — One, gathet. T\i)o, adasic. Three, shed- sic. Four, abodoesic. Five, nijick. Six, biga- dosic. Seven, odosook. Eight, odoosook. Nine, yeoth odue. Ten, theant. The Esquimaux, who are thinly scattered on the Labrador coast, are similar to the Greenlanders ; the language of the latter affording a dialect for the former. In summer they live in tents prepared like those of the Greenlanders, but in winter their habi- tations are constructed in a different manner : choos- ing a large drift of snow, the Esquimaux digs a hole in it corresponding with the dimensions of the in- tended house ; pieces of snow, three feet Ion'/, two in breadth, and one foot thick, are then cut and placed in the form of an arch over the hole ; instead of a window an aperture is cut in the arch, and a slab of clear ice admits sufficient light ; the entrance to the dwelling is long, winding, and very low, and another slab of thick ice forms the door. In the middle of the house is an elevation of snow 20 inches high, covered with skins, and used as the sleeping place. Such is the extraordinary construction of \ 302 NEWFOUNDLAND. irif f i- Hi :."M an Esquimaux's dwelling for nine months of the year. Every reader is acquainted with the Esquimaux sledges, drawn by dogs, who are attached by thongs of unequal lengths to a horizontal bar, an old dog leading the way ten or twenty paces a-head, directed by the driver's whip, which is often 24 feet long. It is not a little singular, that when one of the dogs irt harness rec iv'es a lash, he generally bites his neighbour, and the bite then goes round. It is very probable that the number of the Esqui- maux on the Labrador coast, notwithstanding the exertions of the philanthropic Moravians, are rapidly decreasing. Government. — The island affairs are administered by a House of Assembly, consisting of 15 members, chosen by the people, to which is added a Legisla- tive and Executive Council, after the manner of Nova Scotia. The qualification for an elector is universal household suffrage ; that of a representa- tive, being a householder of two years' standing. The laws are in English, and administered by Circuit Courts. There is no militia in the island, and the police are few in number. ll .V \ 1 months of the the Esquimaux ached by thong's bar, an old doc: a-head, directed n 24 feet long-, one of the dogs lerally bites his und. er of the Esqui- withstanding the ians, are rapidly FINANCE. 303 Military Establishment. — Return of the numbers and distribution of the effective force, officers, non- commissioned officers, and rank and file, of the British army, including Colonial corps, in each year since 1815, including artillery and engineers. Years. Office t» "a! a o :r8 present, or on detached duty at the Stations. 2 S 6 fa -a s? S a F en ♦-• S CD 11 'li a a o 2 1 3 ■a in c M a < t/i 'en < to 1) Vi a 1 25 Jan. 1S16 1 1 8 8 () — 1 1 1 2 '11 17 4 SO 1817 — 1 3 7 — — — — 2 1!) 9 3:)() 1818 1 — 2 7 1 — — — 2 1.) 8 2.')l 18U» 1 — 2 4 3 — — 2 i:. 4 281 1820 1 1 2 3 3 — — ^ 2 10 4 229 1821 — 3 1 2 2 — — 2 10 4 212 1822 — 3 2 4 2 — — — — 11 5 241 1823 — 3 1 3 2 — — — — — 11 3 231 1824 1 1 4 2 2 1 1 — 1 — 14 8 277 1 1825 1 2 3 5 3 — — — 1 18 7 377 182G 2 1 3 7 3 — — — — 1 17 7 333 1827 2 1 1 « ,2 — — — — 1 14 7 31() 1828 1 I 2 7 1 — — — — — 14 7 411 1829 1 • 1 2 7 ! 1 — — — — — 14 7 332 1830 1 1 3 C I — — — 1 IS G 311 1st Jan. ■ 1831 — 1 5 f> 1 — — — 1 18 8 291 1832 — — 5 5 1 1 — — — — — 1") 8 20.^ 1833 i 1 ■~" 4 8 1 ^ •""■ "■"" ^~ — 1 ID 9 292 Finance. — ^The revenue is derived from Custom duties amounting to about 15,000/. per annum, and licenses 1,000/.; the receipts and expenditure, to- gether with the Parliamentary grant (now abolished) were for a series of years thus : — ! ' 304 NEWFOUNDLAND. Years. Revenue. Expenditure. Gross Revenue. Parlia- mentary Grants. Total. Civil. Military. Total. 1822 1823 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 £. 9174 14290 12079 12447 14793 18843 15660 14554 14750 17956 13225 15782 £. 10821 iH51 ll.-iOO 11201 11201 11201 £. 9174 14290 12447 25614 29494 27106 25015 26011 29217 £. 11900 11750 30025 20092 25;!03 27071 29376 £. 11851 14061 • JG. 23811 25811 18552 30200 30025 26092 25303 27671 29376 27000 The disbursement was in 1831 — Civil Department. — 9,594/., including 3,000/. sa- lary of the Governor ; 700/. Chief Secretary ; 300/. Surveyor- General ; 300/. Colonial Agent, and 4,498/. Customs establishment. Judicial Department.— (7j225/., including Chief Justice's salary, 1280/.; two Puisne ditto, 700/. each; Attorney- General, 450/.; Sheriff, 513/. ; Clerk of the Supreme Court, 400/. ; Judge of the Labrador Court', 700/.; Clerk and Sheriff of ditto, 350/.; Judge of the Vice-Admiralty Court, 500/. Police Establishment. — 1000/., namely. Chief Ma- gistrate, 360/. ; two Police ditto, 320/. ; and nine Constables, 3f^0/. ' The Labrador Court was abolished by an Act of the Colo iiial Legislature during the past year. ! t! f M COMMERCE, &C. 30.5 iditure. itary. Total. £. £. 1851 23S1 1 tOGl 25811 18552 302G0 30025 26092 25303 27671 29376 27000 Ecclesiastical Establishment. — 440/., of which the Archdeacon receives 300/. The remainder is made up with contingencies in the Civil, Judicial, and other departments. The island is now required to defray its whole expenditure, without any Parlia- mentary grant : but before such conditions were in • stantaneously carried into effect, reduction should have been made in the offices and salaries named in England ; or the people of the colony, who are now required to bear all the burthens, should have been allowed to make out their expenditure according to their means. Commerce — Shipping. — Newfoundland has been rightly considered as a most important colony by reason of its valuable fisheries, and the hardy race of seamen who are trained up in that useful pursuit. It would be beyond the limits assigned me to go far back into the trade of this colony : my object is to show its present condition, and for this purpose a few of the latter years is sufficient. The following return shows the progress since 1822'. Lct of the Colo ' The falling off in the tonnage, and consequently in tlio fisheries, since the French and Americans have tVequenttd our coasts, is thus seen : — IMPORTS. EXPORTS. I'ears. Ships. Tons. Men. Sliips. Tons. M>.'n. 1815 .. . 930 . .. 126502 .. . 71C3 880 ... 122653 . . 6920 1816 .. . 763 . .. 101675 .. , 5769 788 ... 103633 . . .W81 1817 .. . 716 . .. 93803 .. . 5394 735 ... 93570 . . 5)22 Iiil8 .. . 500 . .. 70903 . . 4012 4G5 ... 61768 . . 3;iS2 1820 .. . 638 . .. 87114 . . 5005 719 ... 82360 . . 4 792 NOVA SCOTIA X .'JOC NEWl'OUNDLANU. n < INWARDS l-'HO.M Year. (U. nrltnin. nritUh Col. Forgn.Stfttc'M, No. ' Tons. Total Inwar(l8. No. 1 TonH. No. Tons. No. TonH. !lH22 207 38107 274 20818 178 22037 749i 81022 11823 280 30813 251 21015 201 230.-10 763 84478 1)»<2« 270 35100 205 24504 277 33310 8611 03400 1827 275» 37505 2(i8 22417 230 30308 780 00380 182JI275 38008 310 275()7 107 24015 701 UWM) 1830 280 3085({ 321 20303 221 28204 828 04423 1831274 37577 :i«5 30043 218 20340 877 9(;609 1832 208 3(;2(;5 3(»2 27881 215 25783J 845 80920 1833 251135171 410 33287 222 20784 802 05242 1 i V > I I i: OUTWARDS TO Y'ear. Gt. Britain. British Col. FoieignStates. Tot.Outwards. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. 1 1822 140 17457 281 24299 321 38859 748 80015 1823 11012238 272 25725 353 42509 741 80532 1820 171 19770: 320 30557 328 40223 825 90550 1827 104 20182| 311 33114 291 35007 77« 88903 1829 147 1770fi' 350 30544 278 34883 775 89193 1830 158 19054 357 37010 284 357 18 709 92382 1831 18121704 432 43159 223 27575 830 92408 1832 107 20221 430 39113 199 25111 790 84445 1833 1511 18515 460 42327! 244 30118 845 90900 Ml ' >' .M i !?l A more detailed view of the shipping employed with different countries as transmitted to the Custom House is thus shown : — I 1: SHIPl'INO. 307 tull iiwards. 0. 1 Tonn. 40 : 81022 :>:{ H4478 51 mmi iw mmu) !)l uum) 2H !»442:J 77 !)(;d09 45 89929 92 95242 'ot.Outwnrds. No. Tons, 1 748 80615 7411 805:i2 825 1 905501 77« 88909' 775 89l9:i! 799 92:{82 ma 92498 79« 84445 845 909001 ig employed oth e Cust om Year ended 5tlt Jiiiiuary, 18U3. United K!n({(loni (lUeriiscy and Jersey British UVst Indius British Nortl* America ... Fort'i(,'n,\ British vessels Europe / Forui(?)i vessels United) Britisli vessels. States. / Foreign vessels Madeira Azores Brazils Gibraltar St. IMerre Purto lUco Total Inwards. OiitwardK. Nu. 215 .'t(>:i i:i2 ,1 (is H!)2 Tontt. Mun. ;ti;i22 .'Sl<)0 27.'>22 1(;27() .'id.') 7!*;iH HV.) 4. '58 tl,') 275 112 171 <.m 5;i :i5(i 5;i5 017 •10 •151 •>2 27 2U U 12 l.'l No. Tons. : Mun. 150 1S2S0 1 2:i5 1 7;( 77l)(l .171 ii;j7iH is:) 22i;i7 2'J :ioi5 — — •J5H 2.1 IISDC (1 TM) 3 112 — — I IK) 12 5();i IH(i7 II l.'l 200 20 2.»5 I vl 12 Year ended 5th January, 18^2. United Kingdom Guernsey and Jersey British Wesi Indies , British North Anieric.i ... Foreign, \ British vessels Kurojje j l''oruign k'essels United \ British vessels... States / Foreign vessels . Madeira Azores Brazils Gibraltar St. I'ierre I'orto llico Total Inwards. No. ' Tons. Men 257 11 54 30S 150 50 ;i .■il704 1501 5005 2227(i 11.005 5140 400 Hi.'! 70 2024 lo;i ;i7o I15S I4i:i 270 ;4 10 Outwards, No. Tons. I Men. 104 3 71 ;)55 173 2 21 1 1 1 4 845 82022 812 10728 l!i:t 7S2I 30S7I 21500 3;io 2330 73 102 70 421 1 2o;i 33 515 1 505 1333 14 137 •I U I 20 10355 5021 y5>. »2 5555 845 I UOUOO I 5418 i St. John's, the capital of the island, has the laigest x2 m 308 NEWFOUNDLAND, ?it f \.f "■ f: Ih -!! share of the shipping — the returns for the last two years were — 1834. Of the above the traded with the United King- > doin was ) Inwards. Outwards. No. Tons. Men. No. Tons. Men. 708 79320 4404 647 75270 4226 177 58 256 54 16 26736 6356 18568 6654 2463 1448 391 1065 302 111 95 77 287 24 1 11702 9333 30602 2453 156 698 585 1567 144 7 With the British West\ Indies / With British North ]^ America in Brit.vess./ With the Uni-f Brit. ves. ted States \ For. vess. 1833. Of the above the trade "k with the United King- [• dom was Inwards. Outwards. No. Tons. Men. No. Tons. Men. 579 62017 3405 527 59040 3072 130 49 258 55 5 19256 4862 20084 6207 849 1065 317 1032 341 42 72 64 265 19 2 8692 6752 24222 2134 346 505 434 1247 119 16 With the British West) Indies J With British North America in Brit, vess./ With the Uni- 1 Brit. ves. ted States \ For. vess. The remainder of the trade is divided with Guern- sey and Jersey, Gibraltar, Madeira, Azores, Brazils, Havannah, St. Thomas, Porto Rico, &c. EXPORTATIONS OP FISH. 309 he last two Outwards. Tons. Men. 75270 4226 11702 698 9333 585 30C02 1567 2453 156 144 7 Outwards. Tons. Men. 59040 3072 8692 505 6752 434 24222 1247 2134 346 119 16 vith Guern- res. Brazils, There is a considerable portion of shipping be- longing to Newfoundland and registered in the island, — I have only the following years. Colonial shipping tonnage belonging to and re- gistered at Newfoundland — Years. Tons. Years. Tons. 1826 20548 1829 27319 1827 22105 1830 29465 1828 25385 1831 We may now proceed to examine the extent of the fisheries; and first with regard to the quantity caught and exported at several intervals. In 1 790 the ex- port of fish from the island was, quintals 656,000 ; in 1800. ditto 382,000. The following is a consecu- tive return laid before Parliament in 1828, and its value is enhanced by specifying the countries to which the fish were exported : — r 310 NEWFOUNDLAND. U ,( y w ' \ C^l m -t* CS CO r: o -f it^ to in CS -f CO 00 O O --O 1^ (M 1 to o f-N j^ trs t^ n -1> o o - 03 CO e-i to oj •»< 1 o o r-< o ■t? ■* ifs e^i 00 OO C5 ■-< •^ •^1 o — o 5^1 m i-i J^ 00 tC >+• :-3 — T'l •+> — f -« -t> I^ CI O l» (M I^ O CO IM — -tl S ■o OO lO 1^ t" 1 IM t^ en — CO o O O O IM ^ 00 «^ CS o o c» 00 ■* C-. ot» t^ CO o « W lO 00 to ^H c-l CO o C5 to I'S CO CO CS 00 t^ 00 «5 to o CS T*> 1 1 w CO O >0 -H — CS 3 !>. — 00 N — O ^^ — o CS Th 1>- >-4 IM «5 in IM to I-) O in CS rn CO 'f O 00 — 1 1 to C5 ■* CO 00 « CTi m 1^ — Tt< \ SA IM CO O ■* to CS ^•^ t>- in l>- -f o — ■* — ■>»• o CO -H f psrt o to to OO n ^.^ »*< C't 1^ CS t— t '+> 35 irs — • to !M in CO CO o 00 00 — CS M 00 — CO S>1 CI .—1 — . « lO — ■M o to •— ' »— ' CS o" (^ o !>. -r 00 •sujnjoj oi)p3ds om -fi 1 1 1^ lO f— t 00 CO ^" ' '—" oo"cs ■♦Y^ CS i>» r>. ^' -»> CS to OO O If! CS — CO C^l to o t^ 1^ O « 00 — 1 !>! CO l>. o OO 1^ to w « — to 1 o CO -f I— t »^ e^t CS m ■»)• — _«o_ m -M — 00 ih C) f I^ — X I>l CI 00 to to ira t^ t^ in CO !>. o l^ O N to 05 to 1 1 CI 00 as ■* so in o to 1 3 1 1 CO i>- in o — 1 •♦ m In- _■*— — 5^—1 in c^ to c 00 — m o CO to CS t^ ''- to o — ■* » c to o c o M -f "f m o 00 CO — -r" us o w o CO CO m 1 f CI — CO C^l to CO o c>i m t^ lo to 00 — o in Ci CS o o f— 1 -^ CO in in o -fl o 1 CS (M CS in — • 1 CO 1 1 o 00 1 CO -3" o c-i to 1 C-1 1 1 CI CO Kl O CO ^^ !>. 'J* ^^ -H !■» CS t-. to " •t'~ CO CS 00 to CO crs" o CS 1~ 00 t^ 00 o = c « C-t CS f t- 3S 1 CS to C-: CS OJ o *>• in >— ' ^ t^ I in "" l-H o t^ o 00 c^ J-. (M Jf CO to t— 1 O 00 l>« ^^ !>• ' c- ■* to CI CS to CO «^ CO 1 o 1 to CO CS — — IM 1 1 00 1 t- CI m »D CO 1 1 1 CO in 00 in F^ f to CO . '^ '" to 1 -»■=* » "es ■a ■«-» CS ■*-» ■M H "3 r ■a t to 2 3 1 i 1- u ■J '-J 6« f X! *v3 sported ket, tie ittn E ■a C8 %S, -W-c^ij •n "ttl 13 s Cod fisl Spain, Italy British West Ii British United Brazils Tot. Co S c 5 tt) -l-» .ss 15 ^ c c fo wSfe H ■T!l COD FISHERIES. 311 c =v =^ rj -t* M M r, IT C^ c 'f^ IM -(< -* M ^ " In. M CO If) l^ n ;_- ^ — >5 n '5 CO n ^ f r^ Cl ^0 o -t* 1 t>. 1 >o .1 !M o [» o -t< •M In. 1 1 n «5" s: to o T" " « ^ •* 1 o 1 C^l r^ o"~" O « c> '^ '"' C3 "" C-5 1 !>• 1 M i o " s d -3 11 rt 3 C M H A return of 1826 gives a connected view of the fishing as follows : — State of the Cod Fishery and Trade in Newfoundland in the year 1820. Harbours or Districts. St. John's Bay Bulls Ferryland Trepassy and St. Mary Placentias Burin and Mortier St. Lawrence Fortune Bay Conception ditto Trinity ditto Bonavista and Greenspond. . Fogo and Twillingate Passengers from Ireland. ..840\ Eiif,dand and Jersey... 120 j Employed in boats and sliai-> lops, and as shoremen J Ships' boats employed tishing.., Total employed. 16 o 18 18 73 "4 2 4 5 1 4 1G7 8 2 31 299 299 11 o 470 U 3 C 43 11 30 77 31 9 34 727 727 a 54C0O 1436 340 821 4279 1185 428.') 18603 4934 1020 5334 3746 106 30 Gl 362 CI 275 1614 302 70 257 96837 6884 960 160C0 96837123844 C3 O n to a 1'-' c« I't; > I - ' ~ 500 170 254 50 402 129 55 494 420 570 257 496 2400 250 500 150 800 70 30 3.)0 3000 270 800 200 3797 8770 203 ... 4000,8770 REMARKS. Fish made during the season about 900,000 quintals ; 150,000 of which on the Labrador coast by vessels resorting thither from St. John's and the northern parts of the island. The resident fishery carried on at Labrador is by persons principally connected in the Dartmouth trade ; but it is not of any great extent. About 4,000 tuns of train oil, 3,700 tuns of seal oil, 3,500 tierces of salmon, 293,000 seal skins,' about £8,000 worth of furs, besides mackarel, herrings, &c. &c. Previous to the New Intercourse 7 iw in the Colonies, the whole consumption of this trade was British produce and manufactures, except wines, salt, and some trifling articles (foreign) legally imported into England. Some two or three years previous the Imports were valued at a million and a half, and the return to the mother country upwards of two millions sterling. The vessels trading foreign are all British bottoms, with the ex- ception of four or five small United States craft with bread, flour, and notions. ■If r n : t 4 i 312 NEWFOUNDLAND. II i: r ^1 1 ' ifi I ;' I regret much being unable to continue the pre- ceding returns in the forms given down to the pre- sent year. Mr. Bliss furnishes me with the following account of the trade of Newfoundland. 1 © © t^. •SJJBJ joqjo \{B (N CO • • • "2 • cT Suipnpui 'iBjox 1 lO 05 05 — i« C^ © W •saipui • eo — — « . ,Qi w r-co C5 : : o J83AV lO U5 ©"* © 2 CO -N O 't 1 •adoing JO qinog • :co ©— : :i< t-» CO « *• G o H — (N o CC • • . kh *-.« ."^ C^ ■SUI31S IBOg • • ■^ (M (M lO — (N ffl «0 P-4 — «o ■* « ^^ •sun} 'no § CO • • G^l (N © t- — • • -M (N SO 00 OS ^ (N » CC t>.• CO CO © (rj CO r^ •siBjuino CO JO . CO r-.i< — (N CO • lo © eo ® § CO M •»i" © r^* CO CO kO W 00 © t^ • * § : c^ ' <*- ?s ■ 2 = (M o >-i • c3 &* - be— S.« : ^ w - «j « • 11 5;co>c©K5©o© ^ t-ico S S CO CO CO The London Custom House manuscript returns, which 1 have carefully examined, only furnish the aggregate exportations of fish and other articles as on the next page. » : I .'( 1. pt returns, furnish the articles as CHIEF EXPORTS. 313 Newfoundland Exports, years ending 5th Jan.— Custom House. 1829 1830 DryCod-fisn quintals 920048 Core fish flo. 4189 Salmon casks 38C5 Herrings barrels 447 Mackare) do. 306 Tongues, sound, and caplins ...casks 14(>3 Berries 520 Seal skins number 248100 Calfskins do. 539 Hides do. 223? Beaver skins do. 97'i Otter skins do. 1198 Martin skins do. 1175 Hare skins do. Fox skins do. 930 Weasel skins do. Bearskins do. Wolfskins do Musk rat skins do. Cod and seal oil tuns Knees number Oars do Staves do Juniper plank feet Pineboard do. Whalebone lbs. Wood hoops bundles Poles number Potatoes bushels Spars number Handspikes do. Tallow cwt. Pickets Billets 21 "354 7794 142 163 1831 948463 2030 4439 1083 390 1759 317 300682 300 2359 975 1085 607 24 1088 28 31 1 757 8306 093 1843 25204 1630 6140 2817 755067 4510 3600 1799 456 2090 148.55 559312 348 712 1097 1257 1425 157 1321 34 41 4 1162 12371 1298 2152 32568 19993 "291 1003 130 206 48 4 654053 663787 1832 1833 3320 2924 1064 984 1646 5166 682803 355 762 601 846 792 83 704 75 35 2 648 13118 539 9'8 29000 19511 364 110 500 3266 2705 3969 600 819 126 501436 636 1755 542 960 690 83 737 12 15 1 679 10539 123 323 40679 38405 4 pun. 61 40 1700 3000 42 651 Newfoundland — principal articles of Export. — Colonial Office. Years. Dry Fish. Pickled Fish. Fish Oil. Seal Skins. Quintals. Quintals. Tuns. Number. 1821 903892 ... • *■ ... 1822 884647 2480 1520 .S06982 1823 867183 3013 6400 230410 1826 969216 5631 9343 292007 1827 936470 4233 9886 460584 1829 924237 4618 7794 245408 1830 844154 6931 8334 357523 1831 720881 8606 12371 601742 1832* 654053 • •• 13118 682803 1833 063787 •*• 10539 501436 1834 :i '' ' d ¥. • The Colonial Office document is only down to 1831 — the two suc- ceeding years I give from the Custom House returns. 314 NEWFOUNDLAND. i»'!t, R,: ! IJ (-■«■ ( ■ I- I i 1' ■;! An Account of the number and description of Vessels employed in the Fisheries of Newfoundland, and of the quantities of Fish and of Oil, the produce thereof; stating likewise the Countries whereto the same was exported during the year ending 30tli June, 1832. Description of Vessels, &c. Rankers f European, British European vessels on Lalmidor Vessels from Europe {{StSn."; Vessels from the Colonies on ( liritish ... the Continent \Foreign.... Vessels from the West Indies | ""rei™ "' Vessels from Foreign America | r,',' '.'*' "' ■^ Iroreign..., Island registered vessels em-) „ ,. ployed sealing / ^'eamig.... Labrador and coasting.., Number of men employed in theresidenfj shore tisliery including catching andV curing j Total. Vessels employed in fishing Number Tonnage Men. Quintals of fish exported to Spain, Portugal and Italy quintals British Europe do.... West Indies do.... British America do,... Foreign America, North do.... South do.... Total, Tierces of salmon exported to British markets tierces Foreign markets do.... Total. Barrels of herrings cured Quantity of seal oil made tuns Average prices of Fish, per quintal Salmon, per tierce.... Herrings, per barrel , Train oil, jier tun Seal oil, per tun , 8 7 5 414 285 45 61 3 40/ 274 1500 426f)73 127()87 58585 32078 707382 1383.J 1919 3302i 3186 5933J 497 470 562 55278 20083 4806 6916 509 27211 16432 £. s. d. 10 9 3 2 10 11 10 22 8 10 23 132794 50 49 59 3230 1176 320 397 25 8049 3171 lf)273 3,3405 cssels employed he quantities of iiit? likewise the during the year mployedinlisliin}? Tonnage Men. 4!)7 470 562 55278 20083 4806 6916 509 27241 16432 56 49 59 3230 1176 320 397 25 8049 3171 1()273 132794 33405 } B ) 1) () SEAL FISHERY. 315 The number of French or American vessels employed is omitted in this document : it will be observed, however, that 30,000 men are employed in thi:. valuable branch of the national maritime commerce. 1833. Seals. 128,764 213,010 98,100 52,854 20,300 PARTICULARS OF SEAL FISHERY, 1834. Manufactured at Vessels. Seals. St. John's. From vessels fitted there 120 111,500 " out-port vessels . . 84 91,900 203,400 Caubonear (90 vessels). Thomas Chancey & Co 27,000 Slade, Elson & Co 25,000 Gosse, Pack & Fryer 21 ,000 W. & H. Taylor 2,500 S. Levi & Co 3,000 W. Bemister & Co 4,500 G. Forward 5,500 M'Carthy & Co 2,500 91,000 Harbour Grace. Thomas Ridley & Co 10 11,443 Thorne & Co 11 0,838 Fcl6y 9 0,523 Brown 4 3,840 Punton & Munn 2 4,120 Soper&Son 4 2,350 W. Parsons 1 273 35,393 Brigus. Robert Brown & Co lO.OOn C. Cozens 4,000 J. N. Harris 2,000 W. Munden 3,000 25,000 {continued.) Ill II rr. ! > f 316 Seals. 8,000 13,100 14,000 3,000 10,000 2,000 3,000 437,964 NEWFOUNDLAND. Manufactured at Vessels. Seals. Port de Grave. Martin & Jacob 6,000 Robert Prowse 3,000 Bay Roberts. ■■ Gosse, Pack & Fryer 8,000 John Fergus 2,000 Trinity. J. Bingley, Garland & Co. 5 11,567 Slade & Kelson 8 9,660 King's Cove and BoNAVisTA GBEENiPOND. Thomas Slade, Sen. & Co. 3 2,100 John Sleat & Co 2 2,000 9,000 10,000 21,227 800 Placentia — none in 1834. TWILLINOATE, &C , 4,100 1,000 Seals 400,920 1831 744,000 1832 638,000 1833 438,000 1834 401,000 A- Id .*»,«...k f FISHERY. 317 ''csscls. Seals. 6,000 3,000 9,000 8,000 2,000 10,000 1,567 9,660 21,227 800 2,100 2,000 4,100 1,000 Is.. .. 400,920 Fisliery. Nature and quantity of Produce. No of Quintals Tuns of Tuns of Years. Tons. -Wall of Fish Train oil Seal oil made*. made. made. 1820 107 5796 275 810074 4487 2219 1821 lot 5705 464 817174 4276 3004 1822 •Jl 5582 388 761874 3671 4590 1823 100 6379 376 823189 4012 r:975 1824 59 3395 233 769388 3902 2053 182G — — — 858304 -» __ 1829 254 15202 2957 \ ( 3131 1830 300 15189 2146 } No Returns { 7110 1831 756 43542 10799 J \ 8761 « The value of the quintal of fish may now be estimated at from 8s. t<> 12». (the salmon per ton is from 3/. to 4/.) ; train oil, 18/. to 25/. per tun ; .seal ditto, 21/. to 25/. ditto. It will be observed from the foregoing returns that the cod fishery is the most important. The bank or deep sea fishery is now almost abanloned by the English to the Americans and French ; the cod found on the outer bank is larger than that obtained in shore, and remarkably well adapted to most of the Spanish and Portuguese markets, but does not look so well when dried ; it is a great pity that now onlj- ten or twelve British vessels are employed in the bank fishery, when formerly there were 600 or 700, all fitted out from the United Kingdom. So much for French and American interference. The season commences with April, and ends in October. There are an immense number of boats of diflferent de- scriptions engaged in tba shore fishery ; viz. punts, skift's, jacks, or jackasses, western boats, and shal- lops, employing from one to seven men each, accord- h i :» 318 NEWFOUNDLAND. r ' : ingf to their size, and the distance they may have to sail hcfore they reach their res})ective fishing grounds. The i)unts and small boat? are generally manned by two persons, and occupied in fishing within a very short distance of the harbour, or circles to which they belong ; the skiffs, carrying three or four hands, proceed to more distant stations, sometimes twenty or thirty miles ; the western boats are larger than skiffs, and usually fish off Cape St. Mary's, off the entrance of a bay so named ; the shallops are still larger craft, but now almost obsolete : some of this latter class have been known to admeasure fifty or sixty tons each. The punts and skiffs, constituting what is termed a "Mosquito fleet," start at the earliest dawn of day, and proceed to the fishing grounds, when the cod are expected in great abun- dance, for at certain seasons they congregate and swim in shoals, and are not unfrequently as capri- cious in their resort as the winds which are said to influence their movements : these boats generally land their cargoes at the ' Stage' at least once a day, usually in the evening, except it be in the height of the season, during capelin time, when they may occasionally load twice a day ; the western boats and shallops split and salt their fish abroad, and return to their respective harbours when they may have ex- pended all their salt, or loaded their craft. The stage is erected on posts, and juts out into the sea, far enough to allow the boats to come close to its extremity, for the ready discharge of their cargoes ; it is generally covered over, as the rain will injure the fish, and on the same platform is the salt house, with may have to linjj grounds, y manned by within a very ;les to which )r four hands, times twenty larger than ary's, off the illops are still some of this ;asure fifty or constituting start at the to the fishing 1 great abun- (ngregate and 2ntly as capri- ;h are said to aats generally ; least once a e in the height ^hen they may item boats and id, and return may have ex- raft. its out into the I come close to F their cargoes ; I will injure the alt house, witli PROCESS OF CURING THE COD. 319 the benches for the cut-throat, header, splitter, and Salter, the two latter having in point of wages the precedence, and the two former being on a par. Having thus explained the method of cod- fishing, it remains only to describe the manner of curing. Each salting-house is provided with one or more tables, around which are placed wooden seats and leathern aprons for the cut-throats, headers, and splitters. The fish having been thrown from the boats, a man is generally employed to pitch them with a pike from the stage upon the table before the cut-throat, who rips open the bowels, and, having also nearly severed the head from the body, he passes it along the table to his right-hand neighbour, the header, whose business is to pull off" the head, and tear out the entrails ; from these he selects the liver, and in some instances the sound. The head and en- traps being precipitated through a trunk into a flat- botlomed boat placed under the stage, and taken to the shore for manure ; the liver is thrown into a cask exposed to the sun, where it distils into oil ', and the remaining blubber is boiled to procure an oil of inferior quality, and the sounds, if intended for pre- servation, are salted. After having undergone this operation, the cod is next passed across the table to the splitter, who cuts out the back bone, as low as the n. vel, in the twinkling of an eye. With such amazing celerity is the operation of heading, splitting, and salting performed, that it is ' The livers taken from 300 quintals of cod fish ought to yield a tun of oil, but it sometimes requires more or less, according to the quality of the fish. \i S \ 320 NKWKOUNDLANIJ. ,. ti k ' i, I'' r. not an unusual thing to sec ten codfish decapitated, their entrails thrown into the sea, and their back bones torn out, in the short space of one minute and a half. The splitter receives the hii,^hest wages, and holds a rank next to the muster of the voyage ; but the Salter is also a person of great consideration, upon whose skill the chief preservation of the cod depends. For the next process, the cod are carried in hand- barrows to the Salter, by whom they arc spread in layers upon the top of each other, with a proper quantity of salt between each layer. In this state the fish continue for a few days, when they are again taken in barrows to a square flat wooden trough (commonly called the ram's horn M. full of holes, which is suspended from the stage head in the sea. The washer stands up to his knees in this trough, and rubs the salt and slime off the cod with a soft mop. The fish are then taken to a con- venient spot, and piled up to drain ; and the heap thus formed is called " a water-horse." On the fol- lowing day or two the cod are removed to the fish- flakes, where they are spread in the sun to dry ; and from thenceforward they are kept constantly turned during the day, and piled up in small heaps called faggots at night. The upper fish are always laid with their bellies downward, so that the skins of their backs answer the purpose of thatch to keep the lower fisli dry. ' Supposed to be a corrupt term from the French vtrl) Rincer. QUALITIK8 Ol' COD-P18II. 321 I decapitated, id their back le niiiiute and st wages, and ! voyage ; but consideration, )n of the cod rried in hand- are spread in vith a proper jw days, when a square flat ram's horn M. the stage head his knees in ne off the cod aken to a con- and the heap ' On the fol- ed to the fish- n to dry ; and stantly turned 1 heaps called •e always laid e skins of their keep the lower tlie Froncli verb By dci^rees the size of these faggots is increased, until at Icngtli, instead of snndl parcels, they assume the form of large cireular stacks or pile?' ; and in this state the cod are left for a few days, as the fishermen say, to " sweat." The process of ntrimj is now nearly complete, and the finh exposed once or twice to the sun arc afterwards stored up in warehouses, lying ready for exportation. There are three qualities of cured cod-fish in New- foundland. They are distinguished by the diflerent titles of merchantable fish, and West India fish. Mer- chantable fish are those cured in the l)est possible; manner, and having no apparent defect : Madeira are those having some slight blemish on the face, occa- sioned by an undue quantity of salt, or being sun- burnt ; West India having, in addition to the defect of the Madeira, some cracks in the middle, or broken at the fins. Merchantable fish are generally shipped for the Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, and South American markets. Madeira and 'Vest-India fish are supijliid to the West Indies, and of late years a considerable quantity has been annually exported to the soutliern and western counties of Ireland. The west of Eng- land also consumes no unimportant quantity of ijalted cod annually. It will be evident, when the foregoing statements are examined, that the cod fisheries of Newfoundland are to England more precious than the mines of Peru and Mexico ; and, in truth, if we consider that the vast quantities of fish * annually drawn from the banks ' I think it was Lewenhocck who counted the eggs in the NOVA SCOTIA. Y i 322 NEWFOUNDLAND. 5V',.-i n-±:i; !U, H\ and adjacent coast, it will be found that as the mere representative value of gold, its worth far exceeds that of the precious metals, to say nothing of the im- portance of the subject in a maritime, commercial, and political point of view. Another fishery of great importance to the island and to England is that of seals, for the sake of their skins and oil, which, though of comparatively recent commencement, was carried on during the last two years to the following extent : — From St. John's, vessels fitted out there . Do. outport vessels Carbonear Harbour Grace . . , Brigus (unknown) , Port tie Grace Bay Roberts ..... Trinity :i20 84 90 41 13 King's Cove and Bo- nuvista Greenspond Plaeentia Twillingate Seals. 111500 91900 91000 35393 25000 9000 10000 21227 «000 4100 1000 No. of Seals caught 400920 Seals. 128746 84840 98100 52854 20230 8000 13100 14000 3000 10000 2000 3000 437964 In round numbers, there were in 1831, seals caught 744,000; in 1832, 538,000; in 1833, 438,000; and in 1834, 401,000. roe of a single cod, and found them amount to 9,344,000 : the vast rojjroduction of the species is not, therefore, a matter of astonishment. as the mere far exceeds \g of the im- commercial, to the island sake of their itively recent the last two 1833 Seals. 128746 84846 98100 52854 20230 8000 13100 14000 3000 10000 2000 3000 437964 1 , seals caught 438,000; and It to 9,344,000 : eret'ore, a matter DANGEROUS MODE OP CATCHING SEALS. 323 The following return shows the sealing vessels from St. John's : — In 1834 . 1833 . No. 122 106 Increase 16 Tons. 10952 8665 2287 Men. 2847 2564 283 The fishing or catching of the seals is an extremely hazardous employment ; the vessels are from 60 to 150 tons, with crews of from sixteen to thirty men each, provided with fire arms, &c., to kill the seal, and poles to defend their vessels from the pres- sure of the ice. In the beginning of March, the crews of the vessels in their respective harbours col- lect on the ice with hatchets, saws, &c., and cut two lines in the frozen surface, wide enough apart to allow their schooners to pass ; an operation of great labour, as after the thick flakes have been sawn or cut through they have to be pushed beneath the firm ice with long poles. The vessels then get out to sea if possible through the openings, and work their perilous way to windward of the vast fields of ice, until they arrive at one covered with the animals of which they are in quest, and which is termed a seal meadow ; the seals are attacked by the fishers, or more properly speaking, hunters, with fire arms, or generally with short heavy batons, a blow of which on the nose is instantly fatal. The large ones fre- quently turn on the men *, especially when they have • The hooded seals sometimes draw their hoods, which are shot-proof, over their heads. Y 2 I'l ■•*■' HI i I 324 NEWFOUNDLAND. < ■ f : young ones beside them, and the piteous cries and moans of the latter are truly distressing to those who are not accustomed to the immense slaughter which is attended with so great a profit. The skins with the fat surrounding the bodies are stripped off to- gether, the carcases left on the ice ', and the pelts or scalps carried to the vessels, whose situation during a tempest is attended with fearful danger ; many have been known to be crushed to pieces by the ice closing on them. Storms during the dark night, among vast icebergs, can only be imagined by a per- son who has been on a lee shore in a gale of wind : but the hardy seal hunters seem to court such ha- zardous adventures ; yet their native country ungrate- fully refuses to protect them in peace time against the encroachments of the French. Imports. — The principal imports consist of bread, flour, pork and beef, butter, rum, molasses, wine, brandy and gin, coffee, tea, sugar, oatmeal, salt, pease and beans, lumber, &c. 1 The winter tenants on the Labrador coast say the young seal is excellent eating. VALUE OF TRADE. 325 US cries and to those who ighter which le skins with ipped off to- l the pelts or ation during- nger ; many es by the ice dark night, led by a per- ale of wind : urt such ha- itry ungrate- le against the sist of bread, lasses, wine, atmeal, salt. say the younp St. John's staple Imports for 1832 and 1833. Imports. 1832 1833 Bread . cwts. 44983 97658 Flour barrels 29586 41832 Pork and Beef . do. 17389 14291 Butter firkins 15650 98098 Rum gallons 374160 233016 Molasses . do. 425697 335489 Wine do. 44200 57506 Brandy and Gin do. 12965 24040 Lumber feet 1189000 4715794 Shingles . No. 2191000 1018850 Sunjar cwts. 7004 7650 Coffee do. 280 322 Tea • lbs.200000 chestsl612 Oatmeal . barrels 504 2275 Salt tons 12221 13943 Pease and Beans barrels 47 631 i The value, together with that of the Exports, ac- cording to a Colonial Office manuscript, has been for a series of years : — (A Imports (valued in sterling money). Exports (valued in sterling money). From From From Total To To To Total Great Ikitish Foreign value of Great British Foreign value of Britain. Colonies States. Imports Britain. Colonies States. Exports. £. £. £. £. £. £. £. £. 1822 65G327 177423 34002 8C7752 245578 82952 400668 729198 1823' 054519 124520 44254 823329 IG7703 77801 390994 636498 1826! 204753 131090 179600 512-)4;) 293745 121746 343814 759305 18271 54981() U7731 181714 889261 316596 116513 331477 764586 1829' 551597 159882 107920 819399 239784 144355 306169 690308 18301 54C839 130286 91291 768416 252389 140520 292771 685680 1831 530954 177958 120441 829353 393584 132258 277690 803532 il !J i! : i !» m 0' m ■.«uw.>»Xi.(i4i&.w 326 NEWFOUNDLAND. •(!i-*'s 1:1 • I ■' K:i 'in \i w The total value of the trade of Newfoundland may in fact be estimated at 2,000,000/. sterling per an- num, independent of its great importance in a mari- time point of view — while it should be remembered that it is upheld by no bounties (as that of France), nor protected by any exclusive rights, so often, yet so frequently erroneously, considered injurious to other interests ; — and yet, it is with shame I confess, little or nothing is known regarding this important island in England. Well, however, may the British nation be excused for their ignorance, when their rulers superadd to that fault an apathy which in any other country (and even in former times in Albion) would be truly deemed culpable. The trade in fish and oil carried on by the Americans and French in the British seas is of immense extent and importance, — to France it averages about 300,000 quintals of fish, for which bounties are given ; the proportion for shipping so employed being about 20s. per ton, an J for every green man (i. e. a man who was never before at sea) 75 francs ; — will not this fact open the slum- bering eyes of Government to the importance of our own fishermen ? It is not well ascertained what the amount of bounty paid also on the fish amounts to : if carried first to France, and thence to other parts of Europe, six francs per quintal ; and if to the West Indies, on board French ships, twelve francs per quintal, are supposed to be the amounts, as near as French jea- lousy will allow us to ascertain. St. Pierre island, so improperly ceded to France, is a depot for smug- gling French manufactures, spirits, &c., into our colonies ; and an armed French force is generally A v.- undland may •ling per an- ce in a mari- remembered t of France), so often, yet injurious to ne I confess, is impor'^ant y the British when their which in any s in Albion) trade in fish [id French in importance, i quintals of roportion for r ton, an J for ver before at n the slum- tance of our amount of : if carried of Europe, it Indies, on quintal, are bVench jea- 3rre island, t for smug- , into our i generally FRENCH AND AMERICAN TRADE IN FISH. 327 stationed there to protect the interests and advance the pursuits of their countrymen. The exports of cod-fish alone from the United States, wholly caught in the British American seas, average about 500,000 quintals annually, and the yearly home consumption of the Americans is about 1,350,000 quintals; of the entire quantity, 1,500,000 may be said to be taken on our own shores ; 3200 tuns of oil are produced from the livers of the cods, and 200 fi'om pelts of seals caught on our very coasts. The Americans take every advantage of the privi- leges granted them by us as regards the latitude fixed ; during the day, if none of our armed cruisers be in sight, they anchor three miles from the shore, but as soon as night sets in, they run under the lee of the land, set their nets, and fish till near daylight. Our own fishermen sufi'er also from the Americans being allowed to throw their offal overboard, as it drifts in-shore, and drives the fish from the nearest banks : to these evils it may be added, that our regular trade is seriously injured by the extensive smuggling commerce which the foreign fishermen carry on. On the subject of our North American Fisheries, no Briton, properly appreciating the extent and value of this source of our national strength and wealth, can seriously write with temper. When, in 1814, Lord Castlereagh was remonstrated with against re- storing to France the right of fishery on the coasts of Newfoundland, he spurned the deputation, which was composed of the most respectable merchants en- gaged in the trade and fisheries, and contemptuously observed, that he was not prepared to exclude the i I II HI .5* m I, m'& *«a Jf^ttmM'm 328 NEWFOUNDLAND. 1,1 t^i i^ ■.i : \ 1 French from a participatiou in those fisheries, as that would he unworthy the magnanimity of P»*itain. This left little to be expected from our government, which might at that period have secured the entire of the island to the British by a mere dash of the pen ; and instead of affording facilities to the French to foster their commercial marine at our doors, and at our cost in some measure, have confined them to their proper limits, until conquest should obtain for them a footing at Algiers, which, by the way, is said to have been gained mainly by their naval force, to complete which, it is stated, they drafted 2000 men from the Newfoundland fisheries, and it is believed the naval expedition could not have been made efficient without that resource. Every fisherman, before he is allowed the bounty, with per- mission to embark in the fisheries of Newfoundland, is registered Jor the Royal Marine of France, and liable to serve at an hour's notice. Such has been the feeling and excitemcLt among the inhabitants of Newfoundland of late years, that it is with consider- able pains they have been prevented from taking summary satisfaction on what is termed the French shore ; and unless more attention be paid to British interests in the fisheries, it will not be a matter of surprise, if the French find their position rendered more than uncomfortable upon the coast of that an- cient colony of England, from which indeed they ought to have been swept off long ago I do sincerely hope that in future less attention will be paid to petty party disputes, and that the great maritime interests of the empire will receive more consideration than has yet been bestowed on i- ■ t RELIGION, ike. 329 them ; a ministry should recollect that if they want to sit firm, it must be by upholdinj^ the immense do- mestic and colonial industry of England, which seems now abandoned for fallacious doctrines of free trade with France and other countries, while maxims, that if carried into operation, would speedily ruin a private mercantile establishment, are absurdly supposed to be the surest g'uides for promoting and securing the business and welfare of a commercial empire. Religion, Education and the Press. — Tiiere has usually existed a very commendable harmony of re- ligious feeling between the different persuasions, — the Wesleyans, Roman Catholics, Congregationists, and Dissenters generally, being more numerous than the Episcopalian Church, over which there is an arch- deacon ; the Romish Church has a bishop. Since the introduction of a local legislature, the clergy unhappily have taken an active part in the elections, by which course they have distracted the community ; but it is to be hoped the excitement will gradually subside, and things will assume their former tone. As regards the Press, there are no les^v than five newspapers published at St. John's weekly, namely, the " Royal Gn^ette," " Public Ledger," (twice a week,) " Newfoundlander," " Times," and "Patriot ;" their politics are various, but the latter is most distin- guished by the peculiarity of its character, which is furiously radical, and at variance with the sentiments of a vast majority of the population, though edited with much industry and some talent. At Harbour Grace they publish the " Conception Bay Mercury," and at Carbonear the " Star," also weekly, both respectable journals. Of late years, the taste for fi- I I 330 NEWFOUNDLAND. \l It! lit'* liii literature 1ms greatly increased, and it is but due to that enlightened and excellent judge, Chief-Justice Forbes, who presided over the Supreme Court for five years, from 1817 to 1822, to state, that he was mainly instrument 1 in promoting it. < Princip.al StaTions, with their Brancli Schools St. John's Central School Quidi Vidi \ River Head or Southside / Signal Hill ) " Portugal Cove 1 Tori)::- J Trinity Ship Cove "^ North Side f Cuckold's Cove ^ * Old Bonaventure i South Side J Harbour Grace Mosquito 1 Upi)er Island Cove > * River Head J Port- de-Grave Cupids \ Bareneed J* Bonavista Brigus Burnt Head Petty Harbour Maddox Cove Spaniard's Bay Twillingate Jenkin's Cove ) Herring Neck /* Green's Pond Swain's Island \ Fool's Island...., j" * Bay Roberts Juggler's Cove Western Bay Little Placentia Total Day Schools. .s xi 1 „ o est; a 1824 1218 121 1823 90 ... 1828 155 24 1828 50 ... 1828 180 73 1828 • *> 1825 247 101 1828 (iO -0 1828 71 41 182S 50 4(1 182!) ()4 37 18;!2 53 40 1825 451 129 1828 80 22 182!) 151 53 18 JO 151 ■ •* 18.'9 200 132 1830 30 ... 18;-1 120 58 182(i 544 273 1832 177 140 18;i2 ... • •• 1825 1 187 C5 1828 • •• • •• 1829 207 90 1829 102 52 18;J0 ... ■ ■• 1830 40 • •• 1828 180 130 1829 20 ■ •• 1829 45 32 1 829 100 40 1832 • •• • •• 1831 107 *.. 1832 85 ... 5335 173,'] Sunday Schools. if n 102 117 50 100 50 193 CO 71 50 04 53 412 77 335 152 308 227 58 126 ios 112 72 60 220 22 47 54 29 98 11 Adult Schools. ■a c o . o I" Indivi ■ duals. o 'a C4 o c o 3540 30 40 40 41 40 37 40 123 135 "71 207 130 50 73 ioG 54 56 135 "32 54 29 1529 221 13 137 85 109 03 139 30 "77 '03 20 10 30 1072 34 21 24 17 28 30 154 1279 85 170 25 205 50 343 00 71 50 64 53 530 80 151 151 428 30 174 721 254 ^58 207 36 231 108 72 63 251 22 47 139 2d 137 96 6560 121 30 "73 135 40 41 40 37 40 178 22 53 i'oi "71 311 215 50 81 155 100 56 162 "32 79 29 2312 • Branch Schools. is but due to Chief-Justice ourt for five le was mainly Adult Indivi ■ Schools. duals. •6 e it .-« CM o o o c 221 1279 85 121 i»> ... 170 30 • •• 25 ... 13 ... 205 50 73 hi? 34 343 135 • •* ... (JO -10 ... ... 71 41 ■ •• ... 50 40 ■ •■ ... 64 37 • *• ... 53 40 85 21 53G 178 ... ... 86 22 ... ... 151 151 53 ioy ... 428 36 161 C3 ... 174 71 13!) 24 721 311 30 17 254 215 ... • •* t58 50 77 ... 207 36 81 (>3 28 231 155 20 ■ •■ 168 100 ... *.■ 72 56 •.. ... 63 • *. 75 30 251 162 ..« • *• 22 • •• ... *** 47 32 10 a*. 139 79 «.. *•« 29 29 30 • •• 137 • •• • •• 96 • •• 1072 154 6560 2312 VALUE OF PROrERTT. 331 Naturk and Value. of Property annually created in Newfoundland ', and if not consumed, con- verted into Moveable or Immoveable Property: — Animal food for 80,000 inoutlis, at 200 lbs. each per annum, at 4d. per pound £20C,0tJG' Fisli for 80,000 mouths, at 150 lbs. each per annum, at Id. per pound 60,000 Bread and othor vegetables for 80,000 mouths, at Sil. per day for each 305,000 Butter, inilk, cheese, and eggs, for 80,000 mouths, at \d. per day for each 120,1(JU Luxuries — viz. wines, spirits, ale, tea, collee, sugar, &c. for 80,000 mouths, at '.id. eacli per day 3G'5,000 Food for horses, cows, &c. 40,000, at 1/. each 40,000 Clothes and furniture worn out, for 80,0U0 mouths, at 1/. each 80,000 Domestic produce 500,000 Income from business, or profits on professions .... 100,000 Waste by lire, loss, bad seasons, sliipwreck, &:c. . . 10,000 Total annual production of property .... £1,8116,832 VALUE OF MOVEABLE PROPEHTY. Horses, 1,000, at 10/. each £10,000 Horned Cattle, 10,000, ai 51. each 50,000 Sheep, 10,000, at 1/. each 10,000 Swine, 20,000, at 1/. each 20,000 Poultry 2,000 House furniture, &c. 15,000 houses, at 10/. each. . 150,000 Clotliing and equii)age, 80,000 mouths, at 51. each 400,000 r.Iachinery and farming implements, &c 20,000 Bullion and Coin (>0,000 Siiips, boats, timber, and other merchandise .... 200,000 Total moveable property £922,000 * The statistics of the island are so vague, that a very im- perfect estimate can only be made of property ; an estimate is however given for the purpose of promoting further inquiry. I I m\ 3t32 NEWFOUNDLAND. VALUE OF IMMOVEABLE PROPERTY. Houses, 15,000, at 10/. each jei60,000 WarchousLs, mills, &c ; 1 00,000 Arable l.uul, 100,000 acres, at 5/. per acre 500,000 Laud glinted, but untillcd, 200,000 acres, at II. per acre 200,000 Land not granted, (it for use, 1,000,000 acres, at 5*. per acre 250.000 Roads, canals, dykes, bridges, wharfs, &c 50,000 Forts, gaols, churches, barracks, &c 300,000 Manufactories, mines, quarries, fisheries, &c 1,000,000 Total immoveable property £2,550,000 Total moveable and immoveable £5,368,832 Social State. — On this head there are not many remarks necessary, even did space permit ; the inha- bitants arc principally divided into fishermen, traders, and merchants : the population is of a shifting nature ; but under the fostering care of a local legislature will probably become more stationary. Agriculture is extending annually, and in general it has rewarded the toil and labour of the careful and industrious husbandman. The land might be made extensively useful in grazing farms ; and as potatoes can be raised with much facility, hogs may be fed with success after the country is more opened and cleared. — It has been suggested the new government house, erected at an enormous expense, and quite disproportioned to the salary of the governor, might readily be con- verted into apartments for the legislative council and assembly to hold their sessions. At St. John's they have a Commercial Society, out of which a Chamber 7 ¥V-^..^. 1^ 1*' * »i1l I'f^'" - SOCIAL STATE. 333 :iiTY. 1/. jC 150,000 100,000 500,000 200,000 250.000 50,000 300,000 1,000,000 ...£2,550,000 .^£5,368,832 ire not many it ; the inha- men, traders, fting nature ; ^islature will griculture is las rewarded [ industrious e extensively can be raised with success ired. — It has >use, erected proportioned idily be con- ; council and John's they I a Chamber of Commerce is chosen annually, to watch over and promote the trade and fisheries. There is a branch of the Bank of British Ni rth America now open at St. John's. The capital has a Benevolent Irish So- ciety, and two Benefit Societies, under the denomi- nation of the " Association of Fishermen and Shore- men," and a " Mechanics' Institution." There is also a Benevolent Irish Society in Conception Bay. fi 11 ■I' . la'! .i !' ■ i\ BOOK VI. HUDSON BAY TERRITORY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. AREA — PHYSICAL ASPECT — MOUNTAINS, LAKES, AND IlIVEKS — GEOLOGY — CLIMATE — INUAUITANTS — ANIMALS — COM- MERCE — HUDSON BAY COMPANY, &:C. Jil The vast territory comprised under this section ex- tends between the meridians of 60° and 140° west longitude (upwards of 4000 miles), and from about the 50th degree of north latitude to the pole. It is too imperfectly known to afford a detailed descrip- tion, as given in the preceding chapters ; and I must therefore content myself with affording such scat- tered notices as will convey a general idea of the country. A natural division of this immense region is marked by a ridge of high land rising on the coast of Labra- dor, and running nearly south-west to the source of the Ottawa river (dividing the waters which flow into the river and gulf of St. Lawrence from those • which flow into Hudson's Bay) ; from thence it stretches to the north of west to the northward of Lake Superior to latitude 50° north, and longitude fi ! f rocks and which there found. The lost of which e Athapescow are clothed with fine tall poplars, birch, and pines, and well stocked with Indian deer. The Athapescow is connected with another southern large lake (termed Athabasca), by the Great Slave River, the banks of which are in most parts very high — in some places 100 feet, and the soil of a loamy quality. Near the portage La Loche is a precipice upwards of 100 feet above the plain, and commanding a most extensive, romantic, and, according to Mackenzie, a " ravish- ing prospect ;" the eye looks down on the Swan (Pelican or clear Water) River meandering for 30 miles through a valley about three miles in breadth, and confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, displaying a most delightful intermixture of wood and lawn, which stretch out until the blue mist obscures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by promontories of the finest verdure, where the elk and buffalo enjoy a delicious pasturage. The Swan runs 80 miles through such scenery, when it dis- charges into the Elk or Athabasca River, in latitude 56° 42' north. The Athabasca Lake, which is 200 miles long, and 15 broad, communicates with those of Wollas- ton and Deer Lakes, the latter 95 miles long by 25 wide, emptying itself into the Missinipi, Churchill or English River, which discinbogues into Hudson's Bav. Two considerable rivers, flowing from the Western Mountains, form in 105° 10' west longitude, and 420 miles below their highest source, the Saskutchu- wan, which, after being interrupted by a great rapid, z 2 V i :ii if K Ji1 340 HUDSON S BAY. It' ■ !! I ! .;;! ■&! descends into Lake Winipeg. This body of water is 240 miles in length, and from five to fifty miles broad, its banks shaded by the sugar, maple, and poplar, and surrounded by fertile plains, which pro- duce the rice of Canada. Te course of Lake Winipeg is about west-north- we it, * nd south-south-east. The east end oi it is i?,» 5C 37' north : it contracts at about a quarter of its length to a strait in latitude 51° 45', and is no more than two miles broad, when the south shoiC is gained through islands, and crossing various bays, to the discharge of the Saskatchiwine, in latitude 53^ 15'. Like the otber lakes in this region, it is bounded on the north with banks of black and grey rock, and on the south by a low and level country, occasion- ally interrupted by a ridge or bank of lime-stone lying in the strata, and rising to a perpendicular height of from 20 to 40 feet, covered with a small quantity of earth, and bearing trees and shrubs. Lake Winipeg ', v/hich also receives the great river Assiniboine united to the Red River, dischar^'^': itself into Hudson's Bay by the rivers Nelson and Severn ^ ; or it may rather be said to discharge its waters into Lake Superior by the Lake of the Woods, which is equi-distant from Winipeg. Thus it will be seen that the vast inland seas of Ontario, Erie, * Lake Winipeg is the Lake Bourbon of the French, and the river Bourbon is composed of the Saskatchawan and the Nelson. * Both of these rivers are navigable for canoes to their source without a fall. fefel I IS i ; RIVERS. 341 dy of water o fifty miles maple, and which pro- west-north - end 01 it is a quarter of , and is no mth shoiC is arious bays, in latitude is bounded ey rock, and y, occasion- if lime-stone lerpendicular with a small shrubs. i the great r, dischar^'^'-, Nelson and lischarge its ' the Woods, Thus it will ntario, Erie, e French, and awan and. the inocs to their Huron, and Superior are supplied by innumerable waters flowing from the polar regions through the north-west territories. The Nadawosis, or Assiniboins, runs off from the north-north-west, in latitude 5\\^ north, and west longitude 103^^°, rising in the same mountains as the river Dauphin. The country between this and the Red River is almost a continued plain to the Missouri ; the soil is sand and gravel, with a light intermixture of earth, and produces a short grass, while trees are rare. The Red River disembogues on the south-west side of Lake Winipeg. The main branch runs in a southerly direction towards the head waters of the Mississippi, and the country is well wooded and watered, and abounding in herds of buftalo, deer, &c. Mackenzie says, " There is not, perhaps, a finer countrv in the world for the residence of uncivilized men than that which occupies the space between Red River and Lake Superior ; fish, venison, fowl, and wild rice ' are in great plenty ; the fruits are straw- berries, plums, cherries, hazlenut, gooseberries, cur- rants, raspberries, pear," &c. An English colony is now formed here, as will be hereafter described. The length of some of the rivers in the north-west region of i^merica has been thus estimated^: Em- bouche in the Pacific, Colombia or Tacoutche or 1 The wild rice Zixania Aquatica does not come to maturity north of 50. 2 By Malte Brun. m\ m m \\'\ !:4«»**/.,«,rtiW: -•■V **•** fc.'i >«W|i*»l ^■v*--'W- --yi.-^, ■^*-'> ■ ■W fjy ..> - , ^. y, y^.H ^ •■ .■'^m ttf . 344 HUDSON S BAY. Jiiii ,«■■ !l' ' ' I ■'■■ V\V< > W Wj !i I !' f miles. A luxuriant vegetation indicates the fertility of the soil : the forests contain immense quantities of fir, white pine, arbor-vitae, yew, oak, ash, hazel, sycamore, maple, alder, willow, cheny, and straw- berry trees. Nootka has a vegetable earthy bed, two feet thick, and a far milder climate than the east coast of America in the same latitude ; in April, the thermometer does not fall below 48° during the night, and in the day rises to 60°, and during this month the grass on the island is one foot in length. Black granite, mica, grit for grindstones, and haema- tites, are found here. New Hanover, extending from the 50th to 54th pa- rallel of latitude, and bordering upon the Pacific, resem- bles New Georgia in soil and productions ; pine, maple, birch, and apple trees are met with. Upon the lower mountains the cypress measures twenty-four feet in circumference, and the alder rises forty feet before sending off any branches. New Cornwall, extending from 54° to 57°, has its coast intersected by firths or channels to a great depth. The climate is, of course, more rigorous than the preceding mentioned districts, but near the sea it is still mild, allowing forests of pine to cover the naked and steep rocks, while thi strawberry plant, gooseberry bush, &c. are found in considerable quantities. Several hot springs exist. New Norfolk runs as far as the GOth parallel, comprehending Admiralty Island, and King George's Archipelago, which territory the Russians now claim. The soil, although rocky, supports magnificent forests of pine, &c., and nowhere on the island is perpetual ,,i ; .« .!> .■'>' >>M>*'>''k'«<«— GEORGIAN ISLANDS. 345 the fertility 3 quantities ash, hazel, and straw- earthy bed, lan the east n April, the during the during this )t in length, and hsema- 1 to 54th pa- icific,resem- pine, maple, )n the lower four feet in r feet before 57°, has its to a great gorous than ear the sea ) cover the jerry plant, onsiderable th parallel, ig George's now claim. 3ent forests i perpetual snow discovered, proving that elevation mainly con- tributes to severity of climate. The Aleutian, or Fox Islands, constitute a unique chain, which may be compared to the piles of nn im- mense bridge, which describes, between Kamtschatka in Asia and the promontory of Alaska in America, an arc of a circle as if formerly thrown across to join the two continents. Almost all the islands (twelve in number) »^;ontain very lofty mountains, which are composed of a species of jasper, partly of a green and red colour, but in general of a yellow tint, with veins of transparei. i; stone, which resembles chalce- dony. Some have volcanoes in activity, while others are dormant, and boiling springs issue from the frozen soil of Oonalaschka, in which the natives cook their meat and fish. Along the north coast, the Georgian islands, as they open successi 'ely to the west,, are Cornwallis, Griffith, Somerville, Browne, Lowther, Garrat, Baker, Davy, Young, Bathurst, Byam Martin, Sabine, and Melville. Cornwallis, Bathurst, and Melville island are the largest ; the latter extending from the meri- dian of 106^ to 114^ west longitude, and from the parallels of 74° '25' to 75° 50' north latitude. It is about 240 miles long and 100 broad, and composed of dreary masses of sand stone, stratified horizontally, exhibiting maiks of rapid decomposition, in the per- ])endicular fissures by which they are intersected, and naked of every covering except snow and lichens ; the ravines during the annual 'thaw evincing, ac- cording to the soil, rich pasturages of grass, moss, lichens, salads, and saxifrages, but no tree or shrub I ■'iMi 346 HUDSON 8 BAY. I i i . i"-' meets the eye in a elimate where the water is some- times tHtiiiis 'i')° of Fahrenheit '. It is to the north of this chain of islands, (^oing out hy the WclHngton channel, that it is prohahlc a north-west passage exists, or else proceeding hy Melville Island, — a third opening, or ])rohal)ly opening to the north-west, would be doubling the cape at Leopold's Island, which Captain Ross supposes to be the northern extreme of America, and getting to the south-west to the sea, laid down by Franklin. Regent's Inlet, which the gallant Captain Ross explored, is only one of the openings out of Lancaster Sound ". We now arrive at Hudson's Bay, which is about 750 miles in length, and G04 at its greatest breadth, with a surrounding coast of 3000 miles, between 55° and 65° of north latitude. It is navigable during 11 [i. -tn . h\ ^I'lO ' From the vicinity of Melville Island to the magnetic me- ridian, the compass here hecomes almost useless, remaining as it is placed hy tiie hand. One of the most valuahle discoveries of the late expedition was tliat of the Magnetic Pole, in about 9C°47' lonf^itude. The compass being over the magnetic pole, the power of attraction is at right angles to the needle, and of course it has no power to turn in either direction horizontally : as the sun passed round the magnet was observed following its course, and even tlic light of a candle or a lamp had, in a lesser degree, a siniilar ell'ect. Metallic substances also pro- duced an impression on the magnet, the needle pointing evc't to the brass buttons on Captain Ross's coat. 2 Ca))tain Ilot-s's voyage has not, however, finally determined that no passage exists to Franklii. s and Richardson's seas, through Regent's Iidet ; but he thinks there is no passage to the southward of 74° north latitude, that an isthmus of fifteen miles breadth divides the two seas. \M' ...••^■«»»».*.fct^^ EXTENT AND COASTS. 347 four months in the sunmier, but for the rest of the year is filled up with niiisses and shoals of ice. The navigation is extremely dangerous, as it contains many shoals, rocks, sand-hanks, and islands. The Bay is entered by a strait, exceeding 200 leagues in length, the breadth being considerable in some places. There are several small islands in the north-west extremity, between Point Anne and Cape Walsing- ham, such as Salisbury, Nottingham, Mill Diggs, and Mansfield. The principal bays and rivers in this vast inland sea are, James's liay, in the south-east, which is 240 miles deep, by 140 miles wide ; Button's Bay and Port Nelson ', on the western coast ; Chesterfield Inlet on the north-west, which, after stretching far into the interior, terminates in a fresh-water lake ; Roe's Welcome, a deep bay on the north coast, and also Repulse Bay. The Great Whale River, East Main, or Slude, Ruperts, which has its rise in Mis- tassinnie lake, Abbitibbe, flowing from a lake so called. Moose, and Albany, all disendjogue in James's Bay. The Severn, Nelson, or Bourbon, and Missi- nipi, or Churchill, have their embouchure in Button's Bay. The north coast of Hudson's Bay has h^sn very im])erfectly explored ; it is an immense country, intersected with lakes, marshes, and rivers, to a greater extent, perha])s, than any other part of the globe with which we are acquainted. Some parts are truly frightful, vegetation ceasing in the latitude ' York Factory, the principal station of the Hudson Bay Company, is bnihon the west bank of Hayes' River, five miles from Port Nelson Coast, in latitude 57° north (about that of Aberdeen), longitude 1)2° 26' west. #;ll f^i- 348 HUDSON 8 BAY. ]r yjH hi If, >t I' ( of (J0° north. Whatever wnv the view he directed, no land is seen capnhlc of cultivation , precipitous rocks rise to the very cloudH, and deep ravines and valleys arc rendered inaccessihle hy masses of ice and snow, which seem to have never melted since the creation of the world. The surface is uneven and rugged, with mountains of great height, composed of enor- mous ma.sses of stone. The valleys, though watered by the melted snow from the lakes above, are barren, producing hut a few stinted trees or a hungry moss, and bare of nearly all vegetable production. There are no woods within seven miles of the coast. Gkologv. — Respecting this important subject I have few details to offer. The east side of the range of the rocky mountains consists of conglomerate and sandstone, to which succeeds hmestone hills, .and afterwards claystone and granite ; towards the Arctic ocean, the structure of the mountains is principally transition rocks. Primitive rocks prevail from the west end of the Superior, gradually converging to- wards the rocky mountains, until attaining the east side of the Great Bear J.ake. Coal is fibundant in many parts, and slundjcring volcanoes exist. Bitu- minous fountains are found on the Elk River, into which a pole may be thrust twenty feet without resistance , it is in a fluid state, and when heated emits a smell like that of sea coal. The banks of the river, which are vcrv elevated, discover seams or veins of the same bituminous quality. Iron, copper, and lead have been discovered in several places. Soil and Climate. — The soil about Churchill Fort is extremely barren, and a few garden vegetables. f~tsf ^ t^'*-A%^m>^fm.i^0t.i»mmm hJ0m % ; iVtM?. " N*«.*4.4^ *<•«•" A^ SOIL AND CLIMATU. 341^ reared with the f^rcatcst cnrc, is all the residents can ohtain ; hut on advancing to the northward it is wholly desolate, and not a trace of vegetation to he discovered. At York Fort the t*oil is clayey, and equally unprodutitive, and common garden vcgctahlea are reared with difficulty. The ground is low and marshy ; hut though the trees are larger than those inland of Fort Churchill, they are still knotty and dwarfish. Ahout Moose and Alhany Forts towards the south the soil is hetter, and the climate more temperate, so that potatoes and all garden produce can he reared without trouhle, and douhtless corn also. Still fur- ther to the west the soil and climate improve, Indian corn and wild rice are produced in eonsiilerahle quantities. All around the liay, hut more i)iirticu- larly at Churchill Fort, the climate is extremely severe. The country is huried under frost and snow from the middle of Octoher to the middle of May. In 1775, one of the severest seasons on record, the ice did not hreak up in the river till the middle of June ; and even at York Fort, two degrees to the south of Churchill, the thermometer (Fahrenheit) frequently stood at 50^ degrees helow zero in January. Even in rooms at the factory, where a fire is perpe- tually kept up, hrandy freezes into a solid substance. The rivers and lakes, which are generally ten or twelve feet deep, are frozen to the hottom. The cold, which is almost intolerable during the preva- lence of north winds, is most piercing at sun rising. Europeans are obliged to observe the greatest caution against the effects of the cold, for the air is frequently i.i i 350 HUDSON S BAY. m 1 J'f:^': filled with small angular particles of ice, which being driven by the wind against the face or hands, raise the skin in little white blisters, which break out into hot watery issues. The windows of the factories are made very small, and the shutters kept closed eighteen hours out of the four-and-twenty in winter. As soon as a, room is thoroughly heated, and the embers of the tire burnt down, the top of the chimney is cl' ed so as to exclude tho air, yet the walls of the apart- ment are generally fouud covered with ice two or three inches tlu^k, after the fires go out, and this cannot be removed but by cutting it away. Not- withstanding that the resident Europeans wear a large quantity of woollens and furs, such is the intensity of the cold that they are frequently frost-bitten, and many of the natives fall victims to the severity of the climate. At Congecathawhachaga, in latitude 68° 46' north, longitude 118° 15' west, the weather was found by Hearne extremely severe on the 1 st of July, with much snow f'Tid sleet. The manner in which Captain Ross's crew preserved themselves after the shipwreck of their vessel, was by digging a trench in the snow when night came on ; this trench was covered with canvass, and then with snow rtlie trench was made large enough to contain seven people, and there were three trenches, with one officer and six men in each. At evening the shipwrecked mariners got into bogs, made of double blanketing, which they tied round their necks, and thus prevented their feet escaping into the snow while asleep; they then crept into the trenches, and lay close together. The cold felt was generally 64° below the freezing point of M iW SOIL AND CLIMATE. 351 which being hands, raise eak out into "actories are sed eighteen ;er. As soon le embers of ney is ck^ed the apart- i ice two or )ut, and this iway. Not- wear a large e intensity of ;-bitten, and ;verity of the titude68°46' weather was e 1st of July, ler in which ves after the 2^ a trench in trench was it;' the trench I people, and ficer and six ced mariners , which they ed their feet y then crept •. The cold ng point of Fahrenheit, but in January, 1831, the mercury was P2|" below the freezing point ! Sir John Ross de- scribes the following ingenious contrivance among the Esquimaux to obtain windows to their snow huts. " For this purpose," says he, " a seal skin is laid on the snow, so managed at the edges that it may con- tain two inches of water in depth, procured by thawing snow before the lamp. This is immediately frozen into a transparent plate ; and such, I presume, is the esteemed value of the fuel used for this purpose, that these windows are always removed and carried with them in their migrations. The sun is often obscured for weeks by thick fogs, which are caused by the watery vapours ascending from the sea, which, being condensed by cold, hang all around the coast, and extend inland a considerable distance. The mock suns and moons, called Para- helia and Paraselene, appear very frequently in the coldest months. Even during the summer, when the thermometer is at 90, and the heat oppressive, the ground is only thawed three or four feet below the surface, so that the frost is never out of the ground. Even under the 57th parallel of latitude, the winter is extremely severe ; the ice on the rivers is eight feet thick — brandy freezes ; and, in conse- quence of the cold, rocks split with atremendous noise, equal to that of the heaviest artillery, and with a force sufficient to drive the shattered fragments to an asto- nishing distance. The temperature of the air is subject to the most capricious variations : rain sometimes falls abundantly at a moment when the traveller is contemplating the 352 HUDSON S BAY. ■ ;! i| i ; I cloudless serenity of the sky, — while, on the other hand, the sun will suddenly hurst forth in the midst of the heaviest showers ; and at its rising- and setting this luminary is preceded or followed by a cone of yellowish light. The Aurora Borealia is sometimes mild and serene — sometimes dazzling and agitated — equal in luniinousness to the full moon ; and in both cases strangely contrasted by its bluish reflection with the colour of fire which sparkles in the stars. The sea bordering Hudson's Bay is only open from July to September, and even then vast icebergs endanger the navigation of the seaman, who at the very moment when he imagines himself at a distance from those immense floating rocks is suddenly hurried by a squall, or current (strong enough to render any vessel unmanageable), amidst an infinite number of extensive fields of ice, which every moment threaten to crush the bark into fragments during the fearful collision ' produced by the combined action of the wind and the waves. With all these disadvantages, however, the climate cannot be considered unhealthy, for with the exception of accidents, or from exposure to the cold, sickness is hardly known, and the voy- ages of Parry, Ross, Franklin, &c. demonstrate that the dryness of the climate is peculiarly favourable to longevity ; and along the shores of the Pacific it is as mild, if not milder, than in similar European latitudes. * In April, 1825, there were about twenty-five ships lost in crossing Melville lj;iy, and it has been said that since 1818 upwards of 100 ships have beea lost in crossing Baffin's Bny. if I ir POPULATION. 353 on the other 1 in the midst ig and setting bv a cone of is sometimes uid agitated — ; and in both reflection with stars. is only open I vast icebergs m, who at the f at a distance ddcnly hurried to render any lite number of )ment threaten ing the fearful action of the lisadvantages, red unhealthy, from exposure and the voy- nonstrate that favourable to e Pacific it is ilar European -five ships lost ill tliat since 1818 iig Baffin's Bay. Population. — The human race is scantily but widely diffused over this region. The natives who inhabit the country round Hudson's Bay may be divided into three distinct classes — the Southern In- dians, the Northern Indians, and the Esquimaux: the first occupy the entire country to the north of Upper Canada, and their territory lies between that province and the south coast of Hudson's Bay, and that part of the west which lies between Churchill River and Lake Athabasca ; these are composed of many tribes, some of whom bring the produce of their hunting to the Company's factories, and others take it to trading houses, now established nearer their own homes : they are of a middle size, and copper colour, of strong and healthy constitutions, and subject to few diseases ; they seldom live to a great age, but generally enjoy all their faculties to the last. They excel in hunting, and are capable of enduring great fatigue, cold, and hunger. They are frequently employed by the factors to procure pro- visions, and though long used to fire-arms, they are still so expert with the bow and arrow as to kill fifty or sixty geese in one day, general] v ? hooting them on the wing. Though addicted to pilfering, when they consider detection unlikely, they are never known to be dis- honest with property committed to their charge, but will perform the undertaking of conveying it hun- dreds of miles, and never failing to do so with the greatest fidelity. They are naturally mild, and affable in their manners ; extremely hospitable, and chari- table to the relics of departed relatives, but when NOVA SCOTIA. A .\ 354 HUDSON S BAY. ¥■: 1 1 m >M intoxicated give v/ay to their passions, and frequently commit barbarous murders. They are also extremely sensual, and addicted to the gratifications of their appetites. The voluptuousness and polygamy of the North American Indians, under a temperature of al- most perpetual winter, is far greater than that of the most sensual tropical nations. They have no regular government or chief, but choose a temporary leader ■when they go to war, or to trade » By the use of spirituous liquors, with which the Europeans supply them to excess, and in the consumption of which they Cannot restrain themselves, they are yearly de- generating, and becoming an emaciated, indolent, and feeble race. The Northern Indians occupy the country from the 59th to the 68th degree of north latitude ; their ter- ritory, of 500 miles in lenfrth, is bounded on the south by Churchill River, on the west by the Atha- basca Indians, on the east by Hudson's Bay, and on the north by the Dog-ribbed or Copper-coloured In- dians, which latter, although speaking the same dia- lect, never visit the factories, but trade through the intervention of their neighbours, and are described by Heanie as a hospitable and harmless tribe. The Northern Indians are well proportioned, and about the middle size ; they have a peculiar cast of expression different from any other tribes in the country ; their foreheads are low, noses aquiline, chins long, eyes small, and cheek-bones high ; their hair, like the other tribes, is black, straight, and coarse ; the men have little beard, and that they remove by plucking it out : they do not possess t)iat activity of 1! POPULATION. 355 nd frequently Iso extremely ions of their ygamy of the srature of al- in that of the ve no regular porary leader 3y the use of peans supply Ion of which ire yearly de- ed, indolent, ntry from the le ; their ter- inded on the by the Atha- Bay, and on -coloured In- the same dia- ! through the are described s tribe. :)rtioned, and culiar cast of tribes in the iquiline, chins . ; their hair, and coarse ; ey remove by lat activity of body, and liveliness of disposition, met with among the other tribes of Indians, who inhabit the west coast of Hudson's Bay. As their country is nearly sterile, producing little else than moss for the deer, they have few opportu- nities of collecting furs : their subsistence is chiefly by fishing, and hunting the deer, at v;hic]i they are very expert ; and being little used to fire-arms, they destroy the latter with the bow and arrow, often drivmg them into pounds or defiles. The fish are taken by means of nets made of the thongs of raw deer hide, and also by baited hooks, to which are added a number of charmed substances, such as bits of beavers' tails, otters' teeth, &c., on the efficacy of which great reliance is placed ; a few of them pur- chase kettles of the factors, but the generality of those who do not eat their food raw have a curious mode of boiling it in an upright vessel inade of birch- bark, and as they cannot plac j this en the fire with- out destroying it, they cause the water within it to boil by continually throwing in a succession of red hot stones : their habil s of feeding are extremely dis- gusting ^ The Northern Indians seldom attain a great age, though they have few diseases amongst them, the most fatal of which are fluxes and consumptions ; they are afflicted with a kind of scurvy or itch, so inveterate as to resist all the medicines which have been administered at the Company's factories : all ^ In the north territory horses and other animals feed on animal food, &c. A A 2 356 HUDSON S BAY. \i,:t [fU^^' fill 4, ■ ■■ htrn =1V , V\U disorders are attempted to be cured by means of charms, and a great number of conjurors pretend to be familiar with certain spirits, who, they allege, appear and converse with them. The dead are left to be devoured by beasts and birds of prey, on the spot where they expire ; and when from old age any one becomes incapable of performing a share of the necessary work, he is abandoned to perish without hesitation or remorse. It is scarcely necessary to add that they have but vague notions of religion, probably no idea whatever of a future state, and may be considered an indolent and improvident race, frequently in danger of starving from mere want of precaution ; of a morose and covetous disposition, always begging and pilfering any thing they can lay their hands on, particularly iron. They are not addicted, like the Southern Indians, to ardent spirits, and, therefore, their quarrels do not end so fatally ; murder is seldom heard of; — but though by no means warlike, inclined to practise cruelty on their enemies, the Esquimaux ; their numbers, as also that of the other tribes that inhabit the shores of Hudson's Bay, are diminishing. The Esquimaux, who inhabit the northern coast of Hudson's Bay, seldom approach the fort at Churchill River, a small sloop being periodically despatched to Knapp's Bay, Naval Bay, and Whale Cove, to trade ' . ith them. They are a distrustful people, and inveterate ene- ruies of the Noi them Indians, who persecute them with great barbahty : of late years, the Company have succeeded in establishing a peace between ^f T means of s pretend to hey allege, sad are left )rey, on the old age any share of the rish without necessary to of religion, 2 state, and Dvident race, nere want of disposition, they can lay hey are not rdent spirits, d so fatally ; ough by no lelty on their ers, as also ;he shores of hern coast of at Churchill iespatched to !ove, to trade veterate ene- irsecute them :he Company ace between ANIMALS. 357 these hostile tribes, and taken the Esquimaux under their protection ; still they are apprehensive of the unsparing cruelty of the Indians, and reside as much as possible on islands and peninsulas, where they are not so liable to be surprised. They are of low sta- ture and broad figure, but neither strong nor well made : their complexion is a dingy copper, and all the men have the hair of their head pulled out by the roots ; in other respects they greatly resemble the Esquimaux of Hudson's Straits and Labrador. Many of their articles of furniture are ornamented with great ingenuity, but their arms and utensils are ex- tremely clumsy, and by no means equal to those of the southern tribes. During summer they employ themselves principally in fishing, and live in huts covered with deer skins ; in the winter thev occupy huts, the lower part of which is sunk below the sur- face of the ground, and the upper part formed with poles, which meet in a conical form at the top. They travel in winter from river to river, and lake to lake, and erect tents on the ice, through which they cut a hole and angle io> fish, and this they eat as soon as caught, in its raw state ; — the Esquimaux are divided into many tribes, scattered along the shores of the Polar Ocean, differing in some respects from each other. Captain Ross informed me, that on his late expedition he met with a curious tribe at Boothia Felix never before visited. Animals. — The principal animals are the moose and rein-deer, musk oxen, buffaloes, elks, beavers, polar or white, black, and brown bears, foxes, lynxes, wolves and wolverines, the latter remarkably 358 HUDSON S BAY. ^ I J t:l!l w savage and fierce animals, often encountering the bear himself. Otters, ermines, martins, urjacks, skunks, musk beavers, castor beavers, porcupines, hares, squirrels, and mice of various kinds. Of birds there are eagles, hawks, owls, ravens, crows, woodpeckers, grouse, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, thrushes, larks, swallows, cranes, bitterns, snipes, plovers, swans, geese, ducks, tea! and widgeon in great varieties. Frogs, grubs, spiders, &c. are found in a frozen state as far north as latitude 61°, and can be reanimated by exposure to gentle heat. The walrus and seals frequent the coasts of the bay. White whales are found in considerable numbers at the mouths of the principal rivers ; and along the coast a small and very delicious fish, called kipling or capelin, resorts in times in vast numbers, but this as well as salmon, and indeed every species of ani- mal, whether fish, flesh, or fowl, is so variable in their arrival as to oblige the inhabitants to provide a plentiful supply of stock at seasons when they can avail themselves of it. Geese are particularly useful on this account, and it is not uncommon to kill 20 or 30,000 at a time. Grasses of different sorts are not uncommon, but the ground is principally covered with a kind of moss, upon which the deer feed. The herb called Wee-suc-a-pucka grows in most parts of the country, and the Indians, as well as the settlers, make a kind of tea from the leaves and flowers of this, which is extremely palatable and salutary, particularly in alle- viating rheumatic pains, strengthening the stomach, &c. CHARTER OP THK HUDSOn's BAY COMPANY. 359 'I itering the IS, urjacks, porcupines, kinds. Of ens, crows, its, pigeons, rns, snipes, widgeon in c. are found ide 61°, and heat. The of the bay. numbers at d along the died kipling ters, but this ecies of ani- ) variable in 3 to provide hen they can :ularly useful to kill 20 or common, but ;h a kind of ! herb called f the country, make a kind :his, which is iilarly in alle- the stomach. Little remains to be added to the preceding state- ment. Hudson's Bay was discovered in 1610, by Henry Hudson, who commanded a vessel fitted out by the English Russia Company for the purpose of exploring a north-west passage round the Continent of America. He was left by his mutinous crew with his son and seven other persons to perish in that in- hospitable region. The same Company subsequently fitted out several expeditions for exploring these seas, particularly by Button, Fox, James, and Gillam, who made voyages between 1612 and 1668, when the latter, who had been aided by Charles H. at the suggestion of Prince Rupert, passed the winter of 1668 in a river which he named Rupert River, where he built Fort Charles, which he garrisoned, and in the following year returned to England. During his absence the King had granted to Prince Rupert and the Company associated with him their celebrated charter, dated May 2, 16G9, which secures to them all the trade and commerce within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, together with all the countries upon the coast and confines of the said coast and straits, &c. And under this grant the company have held possession up to the present day, its legality having been established by the opinions of eminent lawyers, except durmg a short period (from 1697 to 1714) when the settlement was occupied by the French. The preamble to the Royal Charter, for incorpo- rating the Hudson's Bay Company, now before me, thus begins : — " Charles the Second, by the Grace of God, King I f 3G0 HUDSON S BAY. IM ' ■ i !^r of Enj^lanrl, Scotland, France, and Ireland, Defender of the Faith, &c. To all to wh« ti these Presents shall come, preetin^ : Whereas Our d+.ar and entirely be- loved Cousin, Prince Rupert, Count Palatine of the Rhine, Duke of Bavaria and Cumberland, &c. Chris- topher, Duke of Albemarle, William, Earl of Craven, Henry, Lord Arlington, Anthony, ^ d Ashley, &c. &o. John Fen, Esq. and John For u, Citizen and Goldsmith of London, have, at their own great Cost and Charges, undertaken an expedition for Hudson's Bay in the North-west Part of America, for the Dis- covery of a new Passage into the South Sea, and for finding some Trade for Furs, Minerals, and other considerable Commodities, and by such their Under- taking, have already made such Discoveries as do encourage them to proceed further in Pursuance of their said Design, by means whereof there may pro- bably arise very great Advantage to Us and Our Kingdom. And whereas the said Undertakers, for their further Encouragement in the said Design, have humbly besought us to incorporate them, and grant unto them, and their Successors, the sole Trade and Commerce of all those Seas, Streights, Bays, Rivers, Lakes, Creeks, and Sounds, in what- soever Latitude they shall be, that lie within the Entrance of the Streights commonly called Hudson's Streights, together with all the Lands, Countries, and Te» ritories, upon the Coasts and Confines of the Seas, Streights, Bays, Lakes, Rivers, Creeks, and Sounds, aforesaid, which are not now actually pos- sessed by any of our Subjects, or by Jie Subjects of any other Christian Prince or State." GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION. 861 rtd, Defender 'resents (shall . entirely be- latine of the l,&c. Chris- irl of Craven, I Ashley, &c. , Citizen and m great Cost for Hudson's , for the Dis- . Sea, and for Is, and other their Under- overies as do Pursuance of lere may pro- Us and Our iertakers, for said Design, te them, and iors, the sole as, Streights, ids, in what- ie within the lUed Hudson's is. Countries, lonfines of the Creeks, and actually pos- le Subjects of The following is a list of the names and stocks of the Hudson's Buy Company when first established : —Duke of York, llOOl. ; Prince Rupert, 270/. ; Duke of Albemarle, 300/. ; Earl of Arlington, 300/. ; Earl of Craven, 350/. ; Earl of Shaftesbury. GOO/. ; Sir G. Carteret, 300/.; Sir P. Colleton, 300/.; Lady Drax, 300/. ; Sir G. Griffith, 300/. ; Sir E. Hingford, r '• P. Neale, 200/.; Vyner, 300/.; Aid. ji^f. ; Mr. Cooke, , .Vlr. J. Forster, ; Air. Rd. Hawkins, 300/, ; Sir J. Hayes, 600/. Sir J. Robinson, 400/. ; S' J. Foorth, 4.50/. ; Aid. D. F 50/. ; W. Dashwood, Esq. ' ' 100/. ; M. Hildesley, Esq. 3uU/. 300/. ; J. Kirke, Esq. 300/. ; J. Lindley, Esq. 300/. ; W. Prettyman, Esq. 300/. ; Mr. J. Portman. 300/. ; Mr. N. Walker, 150/.; Mr. Young, 300/. The court from 1G72 to 1673 consisted of His Highness Prince Rupert, Governor, Sir J. Robinson, Deputy- Governor, and a Committee of Sirs R. Vyner, J. Griffiths, and J. Hayes, Esqrs. J. Kirke and F. Millington, and Messrs. J. Portman and Rd, Haw- kins. It having been generally supposed that the Com- pany made but feeble attempts to explore the country or extend the settlement, the Government were in- duced, on the representation of Mr. Dobbs, to send out Captain Middleton in 1741, who discovered Repulse Bay ; and another expedition under Captain Moor, in 1 746, explored Wagers Strait, and Chester- field Inlet, and ascertained that no passage existed in that direction. Owing to the peculiar constitution of the Hudson's Bay Company, little progress was made by its officers ii I! •' ^. •^. t2 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I S: lis lllllio 2.5 li 1.8 Ul M |i6 ■• 6" ^ Hictographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 iV N> fv ^ ^ fe 362 HUDSON S BAY. in extending its trading stations, or in exploring the interior, until Mr. Hearne was dispatched on an ex- pedition to the Arctic Sea, in 1770, and he succeeded in reaching the Copper Mine River, on the 1st July in that year. In the course of his exploring expedi- tion, he noticed all the principal lakes, rivers, &c. in the space of twelve degrees north of Fort Churchill, and thirty degrees west. The Company's settlements around the whole of Hudson's Bay are only four — namely, at the mouth of Churchill River, 59° north latitude ; on an island between two branches of Nelson's River, in 57° S(y north latitude ; on the River Albany, in 52° 18' north latitude ; and at the mouth of a small river on the south side of James's Bay. These are all fortified positions, the first named Prince of Wales's or Churchill Fort ; the second York, the third Albany, and the fourth Moose Forts. The Company have at present in their employ about 1000 Europeans and their descendants by Indian wives. Under the pro- tection of these are some smaller settlements, such as Severn House, in 56° 12' north latitude, and East Main on Rupert River, in 53° 24' north latitude. The French, during their possession of Canada, had established several forts, such as Fort Bourbon, Fort Dauphin, &c. many hundred miles beyond Lake Superior, and it was owing to the apathy of the Hudson's Bay Company that the North West Fur Company became established, after the conquest of Canada, originally consisting of a few enterprising adventurers, but subsequently becoming the first commercial establishment in British North America. SETTLEMENTS OP THE NORTH WEST COMPANY. 363 xploring the d on an ex- tie succeeded the 1st July ring expedi- ivers, &c. in rt Churchill, he whole of t the mouth on an island r, in 57° 3(y in 52° 18' mall river on e all fortified Wales's or third Albany, pany have at iropeans and nder the pro- lents, such as ide, and East latitude, of Canada, ^ort Bourbon, beyond Lake ipathy of the th West Fur 2 conquest of enterprising ing the first orth America. This Company was principally recruited by young men from Scotland, who, after serving an apprentice- ship of seven years, became clerks, managers, and finally partners, and hence the energy and unanimity with which they acted to intimidate any competitors who might happen to compete with them in the trade with the Indians. Although the Hudson's Bay Company claimed by their charter the exclu- sive privileges of trading, not only in the English River and its tributaries, but on the Saskachawine, the Red River, and all the streams which fall into Lake Winipeg, the waters of which are carried into Hudson's Bay by the two rivers Nelson and Severn; yet as the claim to this vast territory was unsup- ported by any power to enforce it, and it was difficult to enforce a magisterial authority 2000 miles beyond the limits of any recognised jurisdiction, their claim was only treated with contempt ; and besides estab- lishing opposition trading posts near every one of those belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, the North West Company had establishments at Atha- basca, Peace River, Great and Lesser Lakes, New Caledonia, Columbia, &c. By this means, and the extensive trade which they carried on with the In- dians, their influence was all powerful, and no trader in opposition to them would be safe, even did he not encounter starvation in any attempt to penetrate into the interior. It remains only to be added that during the recent voyages to the North Pole, the exertions and munificence of the Hudson's Bay Company, and of their servants, deserves the warmest commen- dation. I '/ APPENDIX. COMPARATIVE STATEMENT Of the Duties on Foreign Merchandise consumed in the Northern Colonies of Great Britain and in the United States. ¥] }ti t if ■ I III \. >: !#,. 19 I Colonial Duties. Woollens, Cottons, Silki., Linens, Earthenware, China, Glassware, Hardware, Brit. 2A per cent. do. do. do. do. do. do. do 2r 2, 2. 2v 2- 2, 2.- Rolled Iron of various kinds, 2^ per cent When the above articles are im- ported from foreign countries, 20 to 30 per cent Iron, in bars, per ton, foreign, about 3 dolii. 50 cts. British |. Hemp, per ton, 7^ per cent., about 7 50; if from a ware- house in Great Britain, free... Flax, per ton, 7^ per cent Salt, free Sugar, 111 cts. for 112 lbs., 1 ct. Brandy, gallon 22 ... Gin, do 22 ... Rum, do 21 ... Coffee, 111 cts. tor 112 lbs. 1 ... Pepper and spices generally free if imported from a warehoiise in Great Britain Wine, in casks, from 1^ to 6 cts. per gallon, b.in , per ct. ad valorem in bottles, about 13 cts. p. gal. Teas, Bohea, lb ,.. 3^ c. Hyson, do 10... all other kind«, lb. 6§ A long list of free articles. Duties in the United States. 45 to 168 percent. 27i to 125 per cent. 20 and 30 per cent. 25 per cent. 20 per jent. 25 per cent. 20 to 70 per cent. 25 per cent. 125 to 180 percent. 22, 40, and 37 dollars for rolled. 55, and 60 dollars in 1831. 45, and 60 dollars in 1833. 20 cts. per bushel of 56 lbs. 3 cents per pound. 53 to 85 cents. 57 to 90 cents. 53 to 85 cents. 5 cents per pound. 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