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Grafton & Sons, in the Office of the Minister of Agriculture. 'Witness" Printing House, Montreal. PREFACE. The object of the present volume is to enable both tourist and citizen to understand and enjoy the romantic history and other sources of interest of Montreal. It is not without imperfections, though we trust no very great ones. In its form it is largely based on references to the series of historical tablets of marble in course of erection by the Numismatic and Antiquarian Society of Montreal, some of which are not yet in place, though well under way. These will be convenient landmarks to follow. The general accuracy and usefulness of the book will, we think, be best discovered in using it or in comparing it carefully with anything else of the kind. A limited edition is published in a more permanent form, with numerous illustrations, under the title of " MONT- REAL AFTER 250 Years," which can be obtained of the publishers, Messrs. Grafton & Sons. '\'![,{M{i ^ tMuKL/. ^iiiUJi-llLviiJ^ ',>r|Ml 1 ! I . t\ ^ I "I 0igl)t^ i\\\i\ Bliriijc^ of JVfonti'eal. HISTORY OF TIIK SITK. lEDRieii Knickerbocker approaches the subject of the Dutch history of New York with such respectful awe, that he commences his narrative at the beginning of the World ! VVc, too, will go fur back, and say that the original site of Montreal, some hundred million years ago, was the muddy bottom of a wide gulf or sea; of which mud, and of the fishes swimming above it, the crisp grey stone of her public buildings, her ware- houses and her residences is the nineteenth-century form. Her next shape was that of an immense and lofty volcano-peak, energetically puffing out its thick smoke, its molten lava and its showers of cinders — a busier spot than it has ever been since, yet an excellent advance notice of the manufacturing metropolis it was its inten- tion to be, after getting duly pared down to a mere core by Ihe great ice-movements of glacial ages, and then B 3 SUiinS AND SIIUINKS OK MONTREAL. covered over with grass, trees, Indiatis, white men and rcnl estate agents. From time immemorial there was a town here. His- tory opens with ofie in full view. When Jaccjues Cartier, the Columbus of Canada, sailed up to the Island in 1535, having heard reporU of a great Town and Kingdom of Mochelaga, he found a race of Indians living by a rude agriculture and fishing, who dwelt in a walled village containing some I,5CX) souls. These facts, taken with their language, of which he gives a list of words, and with their condition of peace, tend to show that they were of a race which at some time split into those two bitterly hostile nations, the Hurons and the Iroquois. The latter are better known outside of Canada as the Five Nations of New York, or, with the Tuscaroras of Florida afterwards added, the Six Nations. Aboriginal Traditions. There are two legends of the cause of the dissension. One goes that a certain chief refused to permit his .son to marry a particular maiden. She was a beauty, and swore never to favor any brave but he who should kill that chief. A warrior did so, and won her. But the race took sides in the feud, and hence arose the long, relentless war between the two peoples. The other story is that the Algonquins, arrogant, nomadic hunters of a different tongue, subdued that part of the quieter, corn-planting race afterwards called Hurons, and induced them to join in oppressing the Iroquois. The latter were forced to apply their talents ~H SIGHTS AND SMKINKS OK MONTKKAL. to the art of war, and did so with such huccc.hh that, by incaiiM of their celebrated confederacy (which they called " T!.c Chaiti "), they were about to coiuiuer both the Ilurons and Ah^onquins at the period of the arrival of Champlain. There appears to have been more than one Indian villa^^e on the Island. Hcsides the cultivated space noticed around the Town of IIochela(;a by Jacques Cartier, Champlain found about sixty acres which had once been tilled in the neighborhood of the present Custom House. It is recorded also that in 1642 certain Indians, called by the writer Algonquins (but who were probably not), exclaimed, with a kind of melancholy pride, to the French of Ville Marie during a pilgrimage to the top of Mount Royal : " We are of the nation of those who formerly inhabited this isle. Behold the spots where there were once towns filled with many Indians. Our enemies drove out our forefathers, and so this Island has become desert and without inhabitant." An old man among them said that his grandfathers had lived there and cultivated the ground. " See," he said; taking up a handful of earth : " The soil is good, examine it!" P6re Lalemant, the Jesuit missionary, writes, in 1656, that under the Algonquin name the French included a diversity of small peoples, among whom was one named OnonchatarononSi or the tribe of Iroquet, "whose ancestors formerly inhabited the Island of Montreal, and who seem to have some desire to repossess it as their country." Again : " An old man, aged, say, 80 years, retired to Montreal. ' Here,' said he, ' is my country : my mother told me that in her SKJIITS AND SHRINKS OF MONTKKAL. !i: < .J 3 p S 3 Z SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 5 youth, the Hurons drove us from this Island : I wish to be buried near my forefathers.' " The original description by Jacques Cartier of what he saw is as follows : " How the Captain and the gentlemm^ ivith tiventy-five men, well armed and i'l good order, went to the Town of Hochelaga, and of the situation of the said place. "The next day at early dawn the Captain arrayed himself and put his men in order, to go and see the town and dwelling of the said people, and a mountain which is adjacent to the said town, whither went with the said Captain the gentlemen and twenty mariners, and left the rest for the guard of the barques, and took three men of the said town of Hochelaga to take and conduct them to the said place. And we being on the road found it as beaten as it was possible to see, in the most beautiful soil and the finest plain : oaks as fair as there are any in forest of France, under which all the ground was covered with acorns. And we, having gone about a league and a half, found on the road one of the principal Lords of the said Town of Hochelaga with several persons, who made sign to us that we must rest there near a fire which they had made on the said road. And then commenced the said Lord to make a sermon and preaching, as hereinbefore has been tcld to be their way of making joy and acquaintance in making that Lord dear to the said Captain and his company, which Captain gave him a couple of axes and knives, with a Cross and a reminder of the Crucifix, which he made him kiss and hung at his neck : whereof he returned thanks to the Captain. That done, we walked on T ■iim SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. further, and about a half league thence we commenced to find the lands tilled and fair large fields full of corn of their lands, which is like Brazil rice, as large, or more, than peas, whereof they live as we do on wheat. And in the midst of those fields is stuated and fixed the said Town of Hochelaga, near and joining a mountain which is in its neighborhood, well tilled and exceeding fertile ; therefrom one sees very far. We named that mountain Mont Royal. The said town is quite round and palisaded with wood in three rows, in form of a pyramid, interlaced above, having the middle row in perpendicular, then lined with wood laid along, well joined and corded in their mode, and it is of the height of about two lances. And there is in that town but one gate and entrance, which shuts with bars, on which and in several places on said palisade is a kind of galleries, with ladders to mount them, which are furnished with rocks and stones for the guard and defence thereof There are in that town about fifty houses each at most about fifty paces long and twelve or fifteen paces wide, all made of wood, covered and furnished in great pieces of bark as large as tables, well sewed artificially after their manner ; and in them are several halls and chambers ; and in the middle of said houses is a great hall on the ground, where they make their fire and live in common ; then they retire to their said chambers, the men with their wives and children. And likewise, they have granaries above their houses where they put their corn, whereof they make their bread they call Caraconi .... This people devote themselves only to tillage and fishing, to live : for they SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. make no account of the goods of this life, because they have no knowledge of them, and do not leave their country, and are not wandering like those of Canada and Sagtienay^ notwithstanding that the said Canadians r.re subject to them, together with eight or nine other peoples who are on the said River." The Hochelagans made much of Cartier, and brought him into the middle of their town to the public square, which was, he says, a good stone's throw from side to side. All the women kissed him, weeping for joy. The men then sat in order around, and the Agouhanna, or " lord and king of the country," was brcught in on men's shoulders, wearing a porcupine head-dress. He was about fifty years old and palsied, and begged Cartier to touch and cure him. All the other sick also did so. He recited the first words of the Gospel of St. John, made the sign of the cross, and opening a service- book, read to them the entire passion of Christ, to which they attended gravely. He made a distribution of presents, and on leaving was taken to the top of Mount Royal, " about a quarter of a league from the town," where he was delighted with the view. After getting some rude geographical information from the people, he returned to his boats accompanied by a great multitude of them, who, when they saw any of his men weary, would take them on their shoulders and carry them on. The Town of Hochelaga is one of the mysterious mirages of history, for, large though it was, it thence- forth completely disappears from record, with all its dusky warriors, its great square and its large maize fields. The very spot on which it stood — nearly in front 8 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. of McGill Grounds on Sherbrooke Street, towards Metcalfe — was unknown Ukitil a few years ago, when it was accidentally re-discovered. In the words of one of those who took part : "The memory of the place had remained forgotten for three hundred years, until, Herculaneum-like, it was discovered by men excavating for foundations. First a skeleton was brought to light in a sitting posture, then other skeletons ; then specimens of pottery. On a more careful search being made by local antiquarians, the rubbish-heap of the town was. found. This con- sisted of broken pottery and pipes, with bones of the animals used as food, besides the fragments of other items in their bill of fare. Much of the habits of the old townspeople was gathered from these researches. But the whole work was desultory, being left to the caprice of individuals. So far only the western border was touched upon — that by the brook, which, running through McGill College Grounds, passed down by Metcalfe Street." * A tablet on the latter street, near Sherbrooke, marks the place where most of the relics were found, and reads as follows : " Site of a large Indian village, claimed to be the Town of Hochelaga visited by Jacques Cartier in 1535." La Place Royale. The next white man to visit the Island was Samuel de Champlain, founder and first Governor of Canada, in 1611. He reached here, with an Indian and a French- * R. W. McLachlan, Esq. */j SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. rnan, on the 28th of May, and, struck with the site, selected it at once for a city. " After having moved about in one direction and another," he says, " as well in the woods as along the shore, to find a place suitable for the site of a dwelling whereon to prepare a spot for building, I walked eight leagues, skirting the great rapids, through the woods, which are open enough, and came as far as a lake to which our Savage led me, where .1 considered the country very closely. But, in all that I saw, I found no place more suitable than a little spot, which is as far as barques and boats can easily come up, unless with a strong wind or by a circuit, because of the great current ; for higher than that place (which I named La Place Royale), a league away from Mount Royal, there are quantities of small rocks and ledges, which are very dangerous. And near the said Place Royal there is a little river which goes some distance into the interior, all along which there are more than sixty acres of deserted land, which are like meadows, where grain can be sown and gardens made. Formerly the savages tilled these, but they abandoned them on account x){ the wars they had there. " Having, therefore, made particular examination and found this place one of the most beautiful on that river, I immediately had the wood cut and cleared away from the said Place Royiie to make it even and ready for building, and anyone can pass water around it easily and make a little isle of it, and settle down there as he desires. "There is a little island twenty rods from the said Place Royale, which is over 100 paces long, where one 10 SIGHTS AND SIIUINES OK MONTREAL. could make a good and strong dwelling. There is also much meadow-land of very good rich pottery clay, as well for brick as for building, which is a great conveni- ence. I made use of a part of it, and built a wall there four feet thick and three to four high and ten rods long to test how it would keep during winter when the waters descend, wiiich, in my opinion, would not come up to said wall, seeing that the bank is elevated twelve feet above said river, which is high enough. In the middle of the river there is an island about three-quarters of a league in circuit, fit for the building of a good and strong town, and I named it the Isle of Saincte Heleine. The rapids come down into a sort of lake, where there are two or three islands and fine meadow- lands. " While awaiting the Savages, I there made two gardens, one in the meadows and the other in the woods, which I cleared, and the second day of June I sowed some grains, which all came up in perfection and in a short time, demonstrating the goodness of the ground.' When we approach the neighborhood where he landed, and remember that the city was planned and even begun by so grand a man, the honor of his name and his character throws for us its halo about the place. The fascinating story of the ultimate foundation of the city will be told in succeeding pages. CHAPTER II. GENERAL DESCRIPTIVE OUTLINES OF THE CITV. 'he leading characteristics of the Montreal of to- day are : Its magnificent situation, Its historic riches, Its commercial activity, The cosmopolitan charm of its division of languages and populations. It is, in this respect, the Alexandria of the West. Few cities, if any, surpass it in situation. Past it, in front, sweeps the stately River of Rivers, the St. Lawrence, two miles in breadth, bearing down to the Gulf one-third of the fresh waters of the globe ; in rear rises Mount Royal, its sides clothed with foliage, its recesses full of beautiful drives and views ; and round about the city lies the extensive and fertile Island of Montreal, thirty-two miles long by nine wide, bordered with a succession of lovely bays, hamlets and watering- pliaces. Commercially, the town is, and has always been, 13 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. I the metropolis of Canada. Seated at the head of ocean navigation, its sway as such extends over by far the largest portion of North America. Its connections have a notable influence on the western trade of the United States. It is backed by the great lake and canal system, which connects it with Chicago, Duluth and the cities of the interior of the continent, to which some day, by a short and easy cut, will, no doubt, be added those of the Mississippi. It is the headquarters of, among others, two of the greatest of railways — the Canadian Pacific, which runs from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans, and is the longest in the world, and its rival, the Grand Trunk. Its population, with the adjuncts which pro- perly form part of it, amounts to a little under 300,000 souls, rapidly increasing. Though 620 miles from the sea, Montreal is a great seaport. Locking around from the top of the towers of Notre Dame, one might say to himself: "This city is the Mother of the cities of the West. Yonder was the birth- place of the founder of New Orleans, the home of La Salle, of Duluth, of La Mothe Cadillac the founder of Detroit, Mackenzie, Fraser, Alexander Henry, and of the famous Scotch fur-kings, who governed the fate of the North-West. There is the greatest River in the world. Crossing it is a bridge that was long the engineering wonder of the world. There are the head- quarters of the greatest railway in the world. Here is the strongest Bank on the continent. Nearer still is the wealthiest institution on the continent, the Seminary of St. Sulpice. In this tower is the largest bell on the continent." And so on. SIGHTS AND SHRINES OK MONTKKAL. «3 The city's most pleasing source of interest, however, is its historical spots and associations, for in such there is scarcely a town in America richer, though, as in most active places, the march of progress has removed only too many of the old houses, churches and streets. To what remain, we hope to conduct the reader. Among additional attractions of Montreal is McGill University, while the churches and charitable institutions and the athletic sports of the place are celebrated over the world. The population at the end of French rule in 1760 was some 3,000; in 1809, about 12,000. To-day it is, as already stated, verging on 300,000. Its shipping trade, founded on the ancient annual barter between the Indian tribes here, amounted in 1840 to 31,266 tons burden, in 1 891 to some 2,000,000 tons, nearly equally divided between ocean-going and inland vessels ; while the number of its transatlantic steamship lines was 15, and the capital of its 1 1 banks $43,583,000. The Harbour. — Prior to 1851 only vessels under 600 tons, and drawing not more than 1 1 feet of water, could pass up to Montreal ; but, by degrees culminating lately, a channel zyyi feet deep has been dredged all the way up, so as to admit of the largest ships reaching the port from the Atlantic Ocean. At the same time, the inland canals have been deepened to 14 feet. Immense shipments of grain, lumber and cattle are exported by these means, and general imports return in exchange. Steam navigation was introduced early. In 1807 Fulton launched the first steamboat in America on the Hudson. Two years later, after correspondence 14 SI(;ilTS AND SHRINKS OK MONTRKA!.. •i I'l with Fulton, an enterprising citizen launched here the first steamboat on the St. Lawrence. A tablet records his act as follows: "To the Honorable John Molson, the Father of Steam Navijjation on the St. Lawrence. I le launched the steamer 'Accommodation,' for Montreal and Quebec service, 1809." At the upper end of the harbour enters the Lachine Canal, begun in 182 1, after many delays and misgivings, yet at first but 5 feet deep and 48 wide at the water- line, and 28 at the bottom. Still, it was then wider and deeper than any similar work in England, and was considered a superior piece of masonry work. The Victoria Bridge, crossing just above the harbour, was, when erected, " the greatest work of engineering skill in the world." The idea was the conception of a man foremost in advancing the trade of the town and its public works, the late Honorable John Young ; and the work itself was designed by the celebrated English engineer, Robert Stephenson. It is erected in strong tubular ftrm, resting on heavy stone abutments, cal- culated to stand the ice-crushes of spring, and was inaugurated publicly by the Prince of Wales in i860. It "consists," says the inscription on a medal struck at the time, "of 23 spans 242 feet each, and one in centre 330 feet, with a long abutment on each bank of the River. The tubes are iron, 22 feet high, 16 feet wide, and weigh 6,000 tons, supported on 24 piers containing 250,000 tons of stone measuring 3,000,000 cubit feet. I]lxtreme length, 2 ♦iiiles ; cost, $7,000,000." These figures and its ma':sive construction show it to be many times more expensive and solid than present-day science rre the ■ccords folson, vrcncc. Diitreul achine [ivings, water- ier and id was arbour, leering m of a vn and t; and English strong ts, cal- id was I i860, uck at centre of the it wide, taining •it feet. These I many science ■^ / y. c u U'c; Coi dii (H sti CO it, otl tlx its CIl »)() thi en iin bo th frc at of Di sic StJ Tl sev aiK ex( aiK MCiHTS AND SIIKINKS OK MONTKIIAL. •5 wouKl consUlcM* iiicccssary Un the purpose, uiul may be contrasted with ihc lijjht cantilever hridjje of the Clana- clian Pacific Railway at Machine. It was hiiilt for the (irancl Trunk Railway of Canada, of which it remains tlic property. Victoria Ikiii^je is, in many respects, a study in itself, the nice allowance for expansion and contraction by temperature, the tons of paint applied to it, the lialf-ton of atmual rust scraped off, and many otlicr details, are food for curiosity and tlu)U^ht. All the iron came out from ICn^lantl, eacli piece marked for its place, tlie stone mostly from Pointe Claire. In an enclosure near the entrance to the brid^je an immcn.se boulder attracts curiosity. It bears an i'nscri[)tion statinjjj that it was erected as a monument by the workmen cntjaged in buildmg the bridge to the memory of 6,000 immigrants who died in one year of ship fever. The boulder was taken out of the bed of the River. As the eye ranges about the liarbour, it is caught by the long range of .solid stone buildings which form the front of the city, by the great grain clevaters grouped at each end of the view, by the domes, towers and spires of the lionsecours Market, Bonsecours Church, Not/e Dame, the Custom House, and the Harbor Commis- sioners' Building, and the .serried masts and the smoke- stacks of many iron steamships crowding the wharves. The landscape is one also full of history and tragedy. (The Canadian Pacific Railway Bridge referred to, at Lnchine, seven miles above, was completed in 1887. It is composed of 2 abutments and 15 piers. There are 4 land sp.ins of 80 feet ; the rest are 240 each, except the deep-water portion, consisting of 2 flanking spans of 270 feet and 2 cantilever, each 408, forming one continuous truss 1,356 feel long.) i6 SIGHTS AND SMKINES OF MONTREAL. SI 'I mi i Many a pre-historic savage fight must have taken place in the neighborhood : many a canoe of painted warriors have crept stealthily along the shores. On the shores round about, many a party of the settlers was murdered by the Iroquois in the earliest days of the colony. Two lost their lives in the same manner on St. Helen's Island just opposite ; and on Mofifatt's, or Isle-^-la-Pierre, Father Guillaunie Vignal was slain by an Iroquois ambush during a fierce battle on the opening of a quarry in 1659. On the Longueuil bank opposite might, during the i8th century, have been descried the towers, walls and chapel spire of the finest feudal castle in New France. At St. Lambert there was a palisaded fort. Laprairie, far over to the south, across the water, was the scene, in 1 691, of the celebrated and desperate battle of Laprairie, the first land attack by British colonists upon Canada. To the port came Indian traders for a generation before the founding of the city. Thither in succeeding days came down the processions of huge canoes of gaily-singing voyageurs^ returning from a year's adventurous trading in the pathless regions of the West to the annual two months' fair at Montreal. To speak of the Harbour is to speak of the River, which recalls a remark made in an antiquated descrip- tion of Montreal. "A striking feature in this majestic stream," says Hochelaga DepictUy " independently of its magnitude, has always been the theme of just admira- tion. The Ottawa joins the St. Lawrence above, and thenceforward they unite their streams. But though they flow in company, each preserves its indep?ndence as low down as Three Rivers, ninety miles below SIGHTS AND SHRINES OK MONrUKAL. 17 Montreal From any elevated part of the shore the spectator may discern the beautiful j^reen tinge of the St. Lawrence on the ffirther side, and the purplish brown of the Ottawa on the half of the River nearest to him." The city proper occupies only about 7,000 acres in area, being densely populated by reason of the climate. It is colloquially divided into "Uptown" and " Down- town," separated by an indefinite line about Dorchester Street. "East-end" and "West-end" are also terms frequently used, and the line is about Bleury Street. A convenient landmark is the intersection of the city by two principal business streets — St. Catherine, running across it from east to west, and St. Lawrence, from north to south. The population is divided into three chief race divisions, coinciding also with religious lines: "English," inhabiting mainly the West-end, numbering about 60,000, and comprising a population much more decidedly Scottish than English in extraction ; French, in number about 150,000, inhabiting principally the East-end, but also considerable portions of the lower levels of the West-end, as well as the adjoining cities of Ste. Cunegonde and St., Henri de Montreal ; and " Irish," that is, Irish Roman Catholic, inhabiting the region known as " Griffintown," west of McGill Street, and numbering about 40,000. The principal residential quarter is the " West-end," especially around and above Sherbrooke Street, which is the finest residence thoroughfare, though perhaps soon to be outdone by Pine and Cedar Avenues, on Mount Royal. I8 SIGHTS AND SIfklNKS OF MONTRKAL. Li i Architecturally, the city i)re.seiits a sohd appearance rcsembhng that of the commercial British cities, the prevailing material bein( Dollard, who fell with his companions at the Lon^' Sault o( the Ottawa, and so saved the colony. At the four corners of the base are four life-size bronze figures, representing,' res[)ectively an Indian, a colonist's wife, a colonist, with the legendary dog i'ilotc, and a soldier. Facing the scjuarc from Notre Dame Street stand the tall and stiff fac^ade and towers of the Parish Church, N6tre Dame de Montreal, a building not beautiful, but which all admit to be impressive. The style is a com- posite Gothic, an adaptation of different varieties to one severe design, of a French trend, though the architect was a Protestant named O'Donnell. lie rTterwards became a Roinan Catholic, and is buried in the vaults beneath, the interior, from its breadth, its ampleness, its rich decorations, and the powerful appearance of its two great tiers of galleries, is still more impressive than the front. The wealth of the adjoining Seminary, its proprietors, has been freely spent upon it, as well as the revenues of a vast congregation, and, holding as it sometimes does at great celebrations, not far from 15,000 SIi ilTS AM) .sllUINl:^ i)l MoN IKI.Al.. 27 people, it Is the chief tfinpU? of a wlmlc race. Aiuoii^; tl»e objects to l)e iioticeil are : The Haptistery, to the ii.i;ht oil entering, especially its exipiisite slaiiRMi ^lass wiiulows; tlie small altar-picture of the black \'iri;iu, the orij;inal of wliicli is attributed l)y le^;eiul to tlie brush <»f St. Luke, ami is claimed to be miracle-working; the beautifid wood-carving under it of the ICntombment of (hrist; a small marble statue, ^dven by Pope I'ius IX., on the pillar near the (Irand Altar, and for pra)'in}^' before which th(! inscription promises an indul;»;ence of 100 days from pur^Mtory ; the l)ronzt; St. Peter at the opposite pillai, whose foot is kissed by the faithful in the same manner as the ori^Miial statue in St. I'eter's at Rome; ami others in ^neat variety. I'he (irand Altar proper is a fine piece of work from the artistic point of view, and the white carved ^Moups u[)on it, representing' the Redeemer's sacrifice in various forms, are notable. I'hey are by a modern (ierman master. Some Venetian fi^anes at the sides, above tlic clioir, arc, however, in very bad taste. Above this altar one may catch a i,dimpse, throu<;h the opening, of the richly-carved new (iothic Lady-Chapcl in rear, which is rcachetl by passing; through the doors near at hand, and though somewhat overgilt, well merits inspection. The organ, a new otic, built by the Brothers C.'asavant, of St. Kyacinthc, is claimed to be the finest on the continent, and the splendid orchestra and choir make it a rare musical treat to attend one of the great festival services, Christ- mas, Epiphany, ICaster and others. The towers are 227 feet high. The ascent part-way is made by means of an elevator in the west tower, as far up as the great bell. 28 SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OF MONTREAL. 4i Mr V' " Le Gros Bourdon," which is only sounded on the most solemn occasions, such as the death of a Pope, and is the largest bell in America. Its weight is 24,780 pounds. Ten other large bells are found in the opposite tower ; 18 men are required to ring them. Ascending further, to the top of the west tower, the finest obtainable view of the harbor and lower town is had. The earliest church of Montreal was one of bark, built in the original Fort. This was replaced in 1656 by the first Parish Church, on the north corner of the present St. Sulpice and St. Paul Streets, where a tablet marks its site thus : " Here was the first Parish Church of Ville-Marie, erected in 1656." In 1672 the latter was in its turn replaced by what is now known as the Old Parish Church, which stood across Notre Dame Street. Its picturesque belfry tower remained alone on the corner of the square for some years after the removal of the old church, but was taken down about 1840. The foundations yet exist under the south gate of the square. The cut-stone front, designed by King's Engi- neer, De L^ry, the same who erected the stone fortifica- tion walls of the city, and who also designed the Cathedral of Quebec, was, when taken down, used as a front for the Recollets Church, and after the demolition of the latter, was incorporated in the back walls of the store upon its site, where some of the pieces are still to be seen. The furniture and pictures were sent to the Church of Bonsecours, and the pulpit chair of the Unitarian Church is made out of timbers of the tower. A tablet on the adjoining wall of the Seminary reads : " The second Parish Church of Ville-Marie, built in SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 29 1672, dedicated 1678, and demolished in 1829, occu- pied the middle of Notre Dame Street." A whimsical "legend" has long been told of the corner of the present Church, on St. Sulpice Street, where there is always a little breeze, even in the hottest weather. The Devil and the Wind, runs the story, were walking down Notre Dame Street, when this Church had just been built. " Why," said the Devil, " what is this ? I never saw this before." " I dare you to go in," replied the Wind. " You dare me, do you ? You wait here till I come out," cried the Devil. " I'll be a<- the corner," said the Wind. His Majesty went in. He has never yet come out, and the Wind has remained ever since waiting for him at the corner. The quaint, black- faced Seminary of St. Sulpice, erected in 1710, adjoins the Parish Chuich. Its revenues are immense, but the amount is never made public. The Seminary at Paris, of which this is a branch, obtained the Island from De Maisonneuve's Association in 1663 under charge of keeping up church services and providing for education. The building contains the baptismal and other registers of the city from the beginning, besides uncounted wealth of other historical treasures. The old fleur-de-lys still caps its pinnacles, old PVench roof-curves cover the walls, and as the priests nearly all come from France, there is a complete old- world flavor about the institution. In the words of Charlevoix, it was " a stately, great and pleasant House, built of Free-stone, after the model of that of St. Sulpice at Paris ; and the Altar stands by itself, just like that at Paris." ■i M 30 SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OF MONTREAL. The tablets here read : *' The Seminary of St. Sulpice, founded at Paris, by Monsieur Jean Jacques Olier, 1641 ; established at Ville-Marie, 1657, Monsieur Gabriel de Oueylus, Superior. Seigneurs of the Island of Montreal, 1663." And: "Francois Dollier de Casson, First His- torian of Montreal, Captain under Marshal de Turenne, then Priest of St. Sulpice during 35 years. He died, in 1 701, cure of the Parish." ||i|.^iii ■ii :l !i II l^^ ^! I il!, 'I . !l;! !:i;i lalii; SEMINAKY OF ST. SULPICK, The latter tablet refers to a most attractive, pleasant and somewhat whimsical narrator — Dollier de " SJ^on — on whose Histoire dti MontriCil all the completer his- torians largely draw. ' Opposite Notre Dame are the Bank of Montreal and the Imperial Insurance Building. To the north, the tall red stone building is that of the New York Life Insurance Company, from the tower of which a good SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OF MONTREAL. 31 view may be obtained. On the south corner, the promi- nent edifice is that of the Royal Insurance Company. On the east corner is one of the Antiquarian Society's tablets, on the site of a dwelling of the famous Du Luth, reading as follows: "Mere lived, in 1675, Daniel de Gresolon, Sieur Dulhut, one of the explorers of the Upper Mississippi ; after whom the City of Duluth was named." The face of the Imperial Building shows two tablets, one of which reads : *' Near this Square, afterwards named La Place d'Armes, the founders of Ville-Marie first encountered the Iroquois, whom they defeated, Chomedy de Maisonneuve killing the Chief with his own hands, 30 March, 1644." The story is that one winter, de Maisonneuve, being besieged in the fort by his savage foes, kept his people shut up out of harm's way. Some of them charged him with cowardice, and insisted on being led forth. Finally he acceded. The woods hereabout suddenly swarmed with yelling savages, and the French, to avoid a massacre, broke for the fort. Maisonneuve was the last to with- draw, and, as he did so, he fought hand-to-hand with a gigantic chief, who hurled himself upon the commander, eager for distinction as the bravest " brave." Maison- neuve withstood and slew him in single combat, and then retired slowly to the fort. Thenceforward those who had maligned him were silenced. It is disputed whether this neighborhood or Custom House Square was the approximate scene of the conflict ; but the distance between the two is not great, in the direct line. The other inscription records the interesting fact that -«»: ^^Sm 32 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. Mi™ u the Imperial Building stands upon the second lot granted on the Island of Montreal The first was another on the same square — the pre perty adjoining the Royal Insurance Company's — which still belongs to a male lineal descendant of the original grantee, Father Toupin of St. Patrick's Church. On this square the French, American and British armies have successively paraded as possessors of the town, and here the French army solemnly surrendered its arms, in the presence of the troops of Amherst, in 1760. The Bank of Montreal, with a capital and rest of $18,000,000, is said to be the strongest financial institu- tion in America. Its fine Corinthian structure, noted for its classical purity of line, looks like the spirit of ancient Greece among the modern edifices by which it is surrounded. Originally it possessed a dome. The counting-room is fitted and frescoed with scenes from Canadian history, such as to repay examination. The Bank was organized in 181 7, and is the oldest bank in Canada. The sculpture on the pediment in front is the work of John Steel, R.S.A., her Majesty's sculptor in Scotland. The arms of the Bank, with the motto " Concordia Salus," forms the centre of the group. On each side is an Indian, one barbaric, the other becoming civilized. The other two figures are a settler and a sailor, the ^:)rmer with a pipe of peace in his hand, reclining upon logs and surrounded by the implements of industry and culture. The sailor is pulling at a rope, and is appropriately surrounded with the emblems of commerce. Upon the building a tablet reads : " The SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OK MONTUKAL. 33 Stone Fortifications of Villc-Maric extended from Dal- housie Square through this site to McCiill Street, thence south to Commissioners Street, and along the latter to the before-mentioned Square. Begun 1721 by Chausse- gros de Lery. Demolished 1817." Next to the l^ank of Montreal is the Post Office, a handsome building in the Renaissance style, now too small for the volume of business. Opposite it is some of the Seminary's real estate — a striking illustration of the non-progressiveness of old tenures. Passing westward along St. James Street, we come to Victoria Square, situated at the foot of Beaver Hall Hill, and intersected by Craig Street. Leading mercan- tile houses surround it. It receives its name from the beautiful bronze statue of Queen Victoria, by the English sculptor, Marshall Wood. Looking upwards from the foot of the square, one sees a bit of Mount Royal in the distance, while nearer by are a range of church spires, being respectively, counting from left to right, St. Andrew's Presbyterian, the Reformed Episcopal, Christ Church Cathedral, the Church of the Messiah (facing from Beaver Hall Hill), and St. Patrick's. This square was the old-time Haymarket. It is a busy neighborhood, on the edge of the heart of the town, and is crossed at morning and evening by the principal business people who reach the West-End by Beaver Hall Hill. On the Unitarian Church on the hill a tablet runs : " Here stood Beaver Hall, built 1800, burnt 1848 ; Mansion of Joseph Frobisher, one of the founders of The North- West Company, which made Montreal for D ifi:^" 34 SKIIITS AND SlIklNKS OF MONTKKAL. Hum years the fur-trading centre of America." This building, celebrated only as a landmark, was a long wooden cottage facing down the slope, and was partly protected in front by tall poplar trees. It was the nearest to town of the pleasant suburban seats of the Old North-Westers which covered the slopes of Mount Royal. mortification Lane commences at this square, and marks the line of the old French fortifications. They were of stone, in bastioned form, running along the course of this lane, to its end, then across the Champ dc Mars,^and eastward, to include Dalhousie Square, by the Quebec Gate Station. Thence they returned along the water front to the present McGill Street, which was their westerly limit. The exits were few, being the Recollet Gate at this end and the Quebec at the other, with the St. Lawrence Gate on the land side and several openings on the river, called the Small, the Market, the St. Mary's and the Water Gate. Craig Street was then a suburban swamp, with a branch of the Little River running through. Near by, at the corner of Notre Dame Street, is a tablet thus marking the site of the memorable Recollet Gate : " Recollets Gate : By this gate Amherst took possession, 8th September, 1760. General Hull, U.S. Army, 25 officers, 350 men, entered prisoners of war, 20 September, 181 2." General Amherst, the British com- mander, after the capitulation by the French Governor, de Vaudreuil, ordered Colonel Frederick Haldimand to receive the keys of the city and occupy the western quarter of it. That officer at once did so with his brigade, and was the first Englishman to pass the walls Liilding, ivoodeii otected to town A^esters re, and They )ng the amp dc I, by the oiig the 'as their Recollet vith the penings the St. then a e River set, is a RecoUet st took ill, U.S. war, 20 sh com- overnor, Hand to western with his :he walls M SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OF MONTKKAL. 35 of the new possession. Nothing now icmains of the oUl fortifications excei)t their foundations buried in the soil. They were built, in 1723, by the kind's engineer, Chaus- scgros dc Lcry, and replaced a smaller wall of palisades, erected about 1685 by command of Governor de Cal- iieres, to protect against the Iroquois. Proceeding eastward along Craig Street, past some nine cross-streets, we come to Viger Square, extending for several blocks on Craig Street East, at the corner of St. Denis Street. It receives its name from Commander Jacques Viger, the first Mayor of Montreal, a man of spirit, and the father of local antiquarianism. With its well-grown trees, its ponds and greenhouse, it is the pride of the pnncipal French residence quarter. Large crowds attend in the evenings to listen to the music of favorite bands, which is of a high order, the French-Canadians making excellent musicians. In sight of Viger Square, westward, on the hillside, is the long Champ de Mars, the military parade-ground of the British garrisons when they existed here. It is a level piece of ground surrounded by decayed poplar trees, and overlooked by the Court House, City Hall, St., Gabriel Church (the first Protestant Church erected in. the city) and the Provincial Government Buildings formerly the residence of the Hon. Peter McGill, first English Mayor of Montreal, 1840. The Champ was originally — that is to say, during French times, before 1760 — very much smaller, being only the space enclosed by the 3rd Bastion of the city walls ; but it 36 SIGHTS AM) SHRINKS ()!• MOMKKAf.. i was cnlarj^ctl, in tlic early years of the cciitur)', by means of tlie eartli obtained from rcmoviiijj Citadel Hill. Tiic foundation of the walls runs Mtulerneath the surface alonj; the middle of the scjuarc, and has been exposed to view in excavations. This was a ^ay neighborhood during the palmy days of the {jjarrison, when .some of the most famous rc^nments of the I^ritisli army, such as the (niards, were stationed liere. Adjoining the Champ de Mars, ami passing between the Court House and City Hall, towards the harbour, is Jacques Cartier Square, the upper part of wliich was, in early times, the Place des Jesuites, for the cast end of the Court House borders the site of the I'rcnch Jesuits' Monastery, used afterwards as military quarters, and later replaced by the Gaol and tiie former Court House, which in turn were replaced, about 1856, by the present " Palace of Justice." In the Monastery of the Jesuits lodged the celebrated historian Charlevoix, to whom a tablet erected there runs : " The I^^-re Charle- voix, historian of La Nouvelle France, 1725." The foundations can be traced on the square. Another tablet on the same building reflects a vivid picture of early times : the torturing by fire, on the square, of four Iroquois prisoners, who thus suffered death, by a stern order of Governor Count Frontenac in 1696, in reprisal for the torturing of French prisoners taken by their tribes. The expedient was successful. The whole inscription is : " Here stood the Church, Chapel and Residence of the Jesuit Fathers. Built 1692, occupied as military headquarters 1800. Burnt 1803. Charlevoix and Lafitau, among others, sojourned i'''.\ SKillTS AND SHRINKS Ol MONTKKAI^ h7 here. On the s(|uarc \\\ front, four h(H|Uois surfcreil death by fire, in reprisal, by order of I'roiitenac, 1O9O. " I'he same spot was, in later djiys — cve*^ witliin the memory of men now livinjj — the place where st(M)d the Town INMory, an anticiuated institution wliicli seems ahnost incredible to our present-day imaj^niiations. A tablet on the City Hall, just opposite, connects the scjuare with its protonym thus : " To Jacques C'artier, celebrated navigator of St. Malo. Discovered Canada, and named the St. Lawrence, 1 534-1 535." The part of the siiuarc between Notre Dame Street and the harbour is in the midst of the oldest neij^hbour- hood of buildings in Montreal, some o[ the little streets (such as St. Amable Street) being, in their entirety, not less than a century old, and completely in the antique spirit. A glance around from Notre Dame Street will make this evident. To the east, on the corner, is the old Store of the Compagnie des Indes, which, in the French times, answered to the Hud.son Bay Company. It bears also a tablet that speaks for itself: "The Residence of the Honourable James McGill, Founder of McGill Univer- sity, 1 744-1 8 1 3." The heavy stone vaulting of the cellars is worth a glance within. Just beyond it, in a garden, is the Chateau de Ramezay (1705) the residence of one of the French and some of the British Governors — a good old family mansion of the time when this was the aristocratic end of the city. In front, at the end of the square, is Nelson's Column, surmounted* by a statue of the one-armed hero, Lord Nelson himself, strangely enough, with his back to the '-.! 38 SU;iITS AND SHRINKS OF MONTRlAL \¥. i 11 i water! It was erected, in 1809, by subscription ainonp both ICnjjlish and l«'rcnch residents. The inscriptions may be read for completer information. The rest of the s(|uare is a public open market, used every Tuesday and I'Viday. On its lower part, near St. Paul Street, is the site of the old Chateau de Vaudreuil, the residence of the last French (iovernor of Canada, who retired to France, witli the army of his country, after surrendc.in^ the city and province to General CHATEAU DE RAMKZAY. Amherst in 1760. The cliAtcau was a miniature court of France. The present square, its garden, saw the presence of Montcalm, Beaujeu, Levis and many another brave soldier of the old time, as well as those brilliant embezzlers and voluptuaries, Bigot, Cadet, Varin and th'* rest. The same site was previously that of the large residence of the famous Du Luth. A tablet just above SICIITS AND SHRINKS ()| M( JNTUKAI.. 39 nonp lions used ir St. rcuil, lada, "try, ncral ourt the ther iant tho arge 30ve St. I*aiil Stroft reads: " Thr Chatrau dc Vaudrciiil was built opposite, ill 172^, In* the Mai(|uis dc X'audieuil, Govcrnor-dcneral ; residence of tlu* Mar(|uisdeV'audreiiil- Cava^nal, his son, the last (lovernor of New I''rance. Montcalm, Levis, Hourlama'ine, Hou^mIiu ille, sojourned here." A short distance castw ard is Dalhousie Square, the site of the ancient I'^ench citadel, having heen a steep eminence until its levelling, in 1819, by permission of the (lOVcrnor, ICarl Dalhousie. It formerly bore the name of Citadel lliil. The "Cita- del " was a wooden blockhouse, which commanded the principal streets from end to end, and its situation, the summit of the risin^% was afterwards for a lime occupied by the second rude walerwoiks of Montreal. The town walls ended here with the Quebec Gate, a name which still clinL's to the localits'. The district bcNond is popularly known as " the (Quebec .Suburbs." Atljoinin^ is the Kast-end, or Ouebcc Clate, Station of the Cana- dian Pacific Railway, built upon tlic site of the old r'rcnch Arsenal, later used as Barracks by the Jhitish garrison. At its demolition, a few years ago, to make way for the station, the last part of the r'rcnch fortifi- cation walls of the city was removed. The following tablet is proposed for the Railway Station : " This Square occupies the site of La CitacLMle, built in 1685, replacing the mill erected by Maisonncuvc and Daillc- boust in 1660. Royal Battery 1723. Levelled and presented to the city by K'arl Dalhousie, Governor- General, 1 82 1. Near the east corner of Notre Dame Street stood the Porte St. Martin (Quebec Gate). ir 40 SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OK MONTREAL. Kthan Allen entered it prisoner of war, 1775. This station replaced the l^Vench Arsenal, removed i88i,vvith the last portion of the fortification walls of 1721." The hill itself was a curious piece of alluvial formation, the culmination of that long ridge formed by the branching of the Little River of Montreal into two, on which the French city of Montreal was built, the waters in a former age having apparently washed the soil into this shape. A similar mound and ridge, exhibiting perfectly the ■1-; r--\-,^-^i. Y.M.C.A. BUILDING, DOMINION SQUARE. manner of its formation, exists at the mouth of the River Chatcauguay some fifteen miles distant. Leaving "down-town," and striking westward much farther, we come to Dominion Square, which represents the westward- moving growth and life of Montreal. Situated in the best neighbourhood of the'city, it is a plain, open square with turf and beds of flowers, and is cut into two by Dorchester Street West, at which part are placed two SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 41 Russian cannon taken in the Crimean war. Around, in order, are : the Windsor Hotel, Dominion Square Methodist Church and parsonage, St. George's Anglican Church, parsonage and school, the headquarters and West-end Station of the Canadian Pacific Railway, the Roman Catholic Archbishop's Palace and his Cathedral of St. Peter's, and the Young Men's Christian Associa- tion. The latter is a large and beautiful seven-story building of rich-colored pressed brick, with ample facings of grey cut stone. The style is Queen Anne. The interior is handsome, having a first-class hall, a completely-equipped gymnasium, a magnificent swim- ming-bath and accessories, a bright reading-room, library and other departments. The views from the windows are particularly fine. St. Peter's Cathedral, designed to surpass all other temples in America in size and magnificence, is a copy of the immense St. Peter's of Rome, the Cathedral of all Catholicism, of which it is half the dimensions. The idea was conceived by the late Archbishop Bourget, after the burning, in 1854, of his Cathedral of St. Jacques, then on St. Denis Street. The architect was Victor Bourgeau, who went to Rome to study the original. The foundations were commenced in 1870. Even after it commenced the enterprise seemed for a number of years to threaten failure on account of the expense ; but by assessing every head in the large diocese, this was ultimately met. The Cathedral is built in the form of a cross, 330 feet long and 222 wide. The masonry works of the great dome are 138 feet in height above the floor. The chief respects, besides size. 42 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. " I'! in which the design differs from St. Peter's of Rome, are that the roof is inclined, on account of our snowfall, and the sif^js are both similar, whereas one side of the Roman Cathedral is elaborately columned in cut stone. The differences may be examined on a model in wood which is exhibited in the interior. The stone-work of the facade is the handsomest portion of the Cathedral, the carving of the immense blocks used for the capitals of columns being very fine. To obtain perfect stones large enough for these pieces occasioned many months of delay in the erection of the portico. The dome is by most people considered the great feature, and dominates all parts of the city. It is 70 feet in diameter at its commencement, and its summit is 210 feet from the spectators on floor of the Church. It is an exact copy of the famous dome of St. Peter's, Rome, the work of Brunclleschi, and is 250 feet in height to the top of the cross — 46 feet higher than the towers of Notre Dame. Above is a huge gilt ball, on which is placed a glittering cross, 18 feet high and 12 long. Four smaller domes surround the main one. The interior of the Church is not completed, but is interesting from its size and plan. Close by is the Palace of the Roman Catholic Arch- bishop of Montreal, a plain brick building with chapel. The present Archbishop is Monseigneur Fabre. The Windsor Hotel is the best in Canada, and one of the best-situated anywhere. Its dining-room and grand corridor are scarcely to be excelled in effect. It accommodates 700 guests. Windsor Hall, adjoining it, is the largest hall in Canada, and is used for concerts. SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 43 St. George's Church is the place of worship of the second largest Anglican body. It is an example of the Decorated Gothic style, and possesses a number of excellent stained glass windows and a good carved front porch. The old flags of the Montreal Light Infantry (1837) are hung within. The service is Low Church. WINDSOR lUyVEl. AND DOMINION SQUARK. The square next worthy of notice is St. Louis Square, the prettiest in Montreal, on Upper St. Denis Street, above Sherbrooke. It is small, but is embellished by a large rectangular pond, occupying its centre, the bright flat mass of which, with a distant view of Mount Royal visible, good trees around, and handsomely turreted houses of cut stone lining the surrounding streets, give it much beauty. It is con- structed out of the former public " Tank " or water Si^! . M .. I ^^^ 11 ■! ,r,! I'i 44 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. reservoir, discarded many years since. Numbers of the principal French people live in the vicinity, upon Sher- brooke, St. Denis and other streets. Phillips' Square, above Beaver Hall Hill, on St. Catherine Street, is a small space grown with large trees. Christ Church Cathedral, Morgan's Store and the Art Gallery, all at the head of it on St. Catherine Street, are principal landmarks of the city. A number of less notable squares might be enumerated if that were useful ; but we pass on to the //. — Parks. Montreal has three. Logan Park is not yet finished, and may be left out of count. Of the other two — Mount Royal and St. Helen's Island — it may be doubted if any city in the world can produce a pair their equal in natural beauty. Mount Royal is an ideal crown for a city. Not too lofty to be inaccessible, nor so low as to be insignificant, it presents, here bold rock-faces, there gentle green slopes, vistaed dales, clothed with great plenty of trees, ferns and wild flowers ; meditative nooks, drives, wide prospects and look-outs. The long curve of its crest rises above the city in a perpetual invitation of sylvan charm and rest. The skirts of its slope, below the limits appropriated to the public park, are covered v/ith palazzi and villas peeping out of the foliage. The park is approached usually from the south-east and north-east sides, in each case by a series of winding drives inter- sected by more direct footpaths. On the latter side (by Fletcher's Field), the " Mountain Elevator " carries SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 45 passengers in four specially-constructed cars some dis- tance up towards the foot of the chief ascent, and then climbs a precipitous steep to the crest. The charms of the mountain, however, are most thoroughly seen by following the course of the drives which encircle it, whicli were designed, together with the general plan of development of the Park, by the celebrated Frederick Law Olmsted, who laid out Central Park, New York. He has published a little book on Mount Royal, con- veying his ideas for the future development of its beauties on natural principles. Among the landmarks most to be noticed are: the High Level Reservoir, the General City Reservoir (seen some distance below), the residence and grounds of the late Sir Hugh Allan, founder of the Allan Steamship Line, which, surrounded by a stone waH, is situated just adjoining the High Level Reservoir ; the monumental pillar in the same place, over the grave of Simon McTavish, who, at the beginning of the century, was the chief partner in the North -West Company, which founded the modern commercial g* itness of Montreal. Tradition has it (erroneously) that he committed suicide, and that his ^mansion, ^\Lich long stood deserted a short distance below on the hillside, was haunted by spirits. A walk along the drive northward, skirting the precipitous face of the mountain, gives one of the most picturesque parts. At the western end of the drive, in this direction, one can push on by footpath through the forest and pass into the beautiful vale devoted to Mount Royal Ceme- tery. Returning to the High Level Reservoir, he has the choice of climbing by graduated flights of steps up .1 ■ I I I l\l' 'Ml ■S!i. ' I' i; 111;:.' i 46 SICiHTS AND SHRINKS OF MONTREAL. the face of the chff, and thus reaching the summit. Fine landscape views are obtained from all these points, especially from the top. Changing; its hue with the changing skies, The River flows in its beavity rar^ ; While a ross the plain eternal, rise Boucherville, Rougemont and St. llilaire. Far to the Westward lies Lachine, Gate of the Orient long ago, When the virgin forest swept between The Royal Mount and the River below. The best points of view are Prc^pect Point, near the steps, the Look-out farther south (at which carriages stop), and the Observatory farther inwards. From these the city is seen in a rich panorama below. Past it flows the River, with its Island of St. Helen's, St. Paul's or Nun's Island, half in forest, half meadow, the French parish spires glit- tering here and there along its banks, and the Lachine Rapids gleaming in the distance. Beyond the River, the great plain of the Saint Lawrence Valley, broken by solitary, abrupt, single mountains here and there, and faintly hemmed in in the distance by the cloudlike out- lines of the Green and Adirondack ranges. The solitary mountains referred to are of volcanic origin and are. respectively, from east to west, Montarville, St. Bruno, Beloeil (which stands out strong and abrupt), Rouge- mont, Yamaska and Mount Johnson. This volcanic sisterhood has a member in Mount Royal herself, for the latter is also an extinct volcano, and, in misty ages past belched out lava over the prehistoric plain. The crater may still be seen on the principal crest, and the cone on the south side, not far off, while the rocks of the Bl ' SKilirS AND SHRINKS 01' MONTUIOAL 4; '^S^ (■»»•■ '/ \^ *, ';''*"'-'Nf' ^■\ 'i0fT^-. 'M^^!%^0»^i^^^0:::.. T«^ ,- ^^i":." LACIIINK KAI'IDS. ^summit are of black lava crystals, as I may be seen by examining them . The [mountain was at that time a high one, vvith its base extending beyond St. Helen's Isle. There is a prophecy that some day the volcano will ag^in open, and the city and island sink beneath the St. Lawrence. From the Observatory the view is enlarged by the half of the landscape looking acre '^ the back and upper and lower ends of the island. The quiet of the trim fat-ms forms a striking contrast to the life of the city. The Riviere des Prairies, or Back River — a part of the Ottawa — is seen behind the island, at the head of which lies the bright surface of the Lake of Two Mountains. Far away, hemming in the horizon on that side, runs the hoary Laurentian range, the oldest hillj known to geology. They are the boundaries of the unknown wilds of the North. The mountain is about 900 feet above the level of the sea, and about 740 above the river-level. The park consists of 462 acres. It was acquired, in i860, from various private proprietors, as a result of popular outcry 48 SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OK MONTKEAI- f 1" ! 3!il];: r^i I over one of their number stripping his share of il of the timber, and thereby conspicuously disfijjuring the side. A tablet on the summit records the visit of Jacques Carticr to it in 1535. The early records say that de Maisonneuve made a pilgrimage to the top, bearing a large cross on his shoulders, in the January of 1643, in fulfilment of a vow made in the winter on the occasion of a great flooding of the river, which swept up to the foot of the town palisades, and was, he believed, stayed by prayers. •' The Jesuit Du Peron led the way, followed in proces- sion by Madame de la Peltrie, the artisans and soldier;', to the destined spot. The commandant, who, with all the ceremonies of the Church, had been declared First Soldier of the Cross, walked behind the rest, bearing on his shoulders a cross so heavy that it needed his utmost strength to climb the steep and rugged path. They planted it on the highest crest, and all knelt in adorr.tion before it Sundry relics of saints had been jet in the wood of the cross, which remained an object of pilgrimage to the pious colonists of Ville-Marie." * A hundred years ago, all along the slopes below, towards the city, were perched the country seats of the old North-Westers, McTavish, McGillivray, Sir Alex- ander MacKenzie, the Frobishers, Clarke and others, most pleasant rural villas, abundant in all the hospitalities of olden time. The mountain has been the occasional theme of numerous versifiers, but it has its poet in Mr. Walter ♦ I'arkinan : *' The Jesuit in North America," pp. 263-4. 0' i! SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTKFAT.. 49 Norton Kvciiis, to whom it was his dch'^Mu and comfort during a period of recovery from loss of sight. In his vokimc, " Mount Royal," he Stiys, with deep feeling : " O, Royal Mountain ! Holy Mount to me, I come to thee, as in In i(;lit days of yore : That by thy |nire and calming ntinistiy, In reverence and deep liumility, I may he brought nearer llie heart of God, And hear His voice in Nature's voice around." Further on he describes the usual winter revels in certain localities : " Here, as I lie beneath the maple shade, How glorious a view is spread for me. There are *' The Pines," where many a wild halloo On moonlight nights in winter, has aroused The sleeping echoes ; when the snowshoers. In blanket suit, with brightly-colored sash, And tuque of red or blue ; their mocassins Of moose-skin, smoothly drawn on well-socked foot, And snowshoe firmly bound with deer-skin thong — Wound up the hill in lone extended files, Singing and shouting wili. impetuous glee. « » « ♦ » While yonder lie the hill and meadow-land, Now emerald green, but on bright winter nights, Upon whose snowy bosom happy crowds Fly on the swift toboggan down the hill, And o'er the broad expanse." At the close he again reverently apostrophises : *' Mounts of Transfiguiation still there are. That lift us far above he i...luence Of time and sense, and bring us nearer heaven : And such thou art to me. — When in the valley We feel our limitations, grieve and fret ; And then, in wild despair, look to the hills. For there are wisdom, strength and boundless love : Thou blessed mountain-teacher, Fare-lhce-well 1 ' 50 SKIIITS AND SIIKINKS Ol- MONTRKAI.. 'I ir . ; I'll" St. Helen's Island, iiaincd affectionately by Cham- plain after his youiij; wife, Ilelenc Hoiillc, lies like a gem in the wide St. Lawrence, 'i'he shades of its deep proves, standing opposite the city, secrn to constantly beckon the lieated citizen in summer. A considerable portion of it is reserved for military purposes, and a fort exists within the enclosure. In the days of IJritish garrisons this was a gay place. It is now the resort, on hot days, of the crowded masses, to whom its shades and breezes are an inestimable booti. I«'or their use it is provided with merry-go-rounds, refreshment-houses, games, an open swimming-bath at the lower end, and ])leasant paths. The island was remarked upon by Champlain, on his 161 1 visit, as a site for a strong town. He so greatly fancied it, tliat he purchased it, a little later, with money out of his wife's dowry. The registers of Notre Dame record that, on the 19th of August, 1664, two young men, Pierre Magnan and Jacques Dufresnc, were slain here by Iroquois. It seems to have been sometimes used by the French as a military station, for in June, 1687, the Chevalier de Vaudreuil posted both the regular troops and the militia there in readiness to march againt the Iroquois. Thither the Marquis de L(-*vis, commanding the last French army, withdrew, and here burnt his flags in the presence of his army the night previous to surrendering the colony to the English. Louis Honor^ Frechette, the national French-Canadian poet, bases upon this his poem, entitled " All Lost but Honour." In 1688 the island was acquired by Charles Le Moyne, Sieur de Longueuil, who gave the name of Ste. H^lenc SIGHTS AND SKIUNKS OK MDNTRKAL 51 to otic of his most distiiv^uishcd sons. Duriiij^ the eighteenth century (from before 1723), his descendants, tlie Barons of Lonf^ueiiil, wliose territory lay just opposite, had a residence here, tlie ruins of which, once surrounded with gardens, are to be seen upon it on the east side, near tlie present restaurant. The (lovernment actpiired it from them by arrangement during the war of 1812, and Liter by purchase in 1818, for military purposes. It ceded the park portion to the city in 1874. Ahnost adjoining it, at the lower extremity, is Isle Rondc, a small, low island. ///. — Cemeteries, Out of regard for beauty of situation, the two great cemeteries, Protestant and Roman Catholic, lie behind the mountain. Mount Royal Cemetery, the former, is one of the most lovely of Montreal's surroundings, occupying a secluded vale, landscape-gardened in perfect taste. It is approached either from the Mountain Park by a carriage road and by various paths over and around, or else by the highway called Mount Royal Avenue, on the north side, which leads through groves up to the prin- cipal Gate, a Gothic structure of stone. On entering, the Chapel is seen to the left, the Superintendent's Lodge to the right, in front lawns, flower beds and roads leading up the hill. To the right are the winter vaults. Finely situated to the left, far up on the hillside, is the range of family vaults, of which the Molson is the $» SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OF MONTKKAL. 1 'I r m most conspicuous aiK) the TifTiii tlic most tasteful. The former contains the remains of the llottourablc John Molson. This cemetery is not old enough to contain many celebrities. There is, however, tlie (juiet jjrave of the poet I Icavyse^c, author of •' Saul " and other dramas, and of a number of wicrd and musical sonnets. Adjoininj^ Mount Royal Cemetery to the south, ami situated on a separate face of the mountain, is the Roman Catholic Cemetery, less well-kept, but still containing things worth sceinjj. One of these sij^hts is the Stations of the Cross ; another the monument to the "patriots" (accortlinjj to the side taken) of 1837, when a rebellion of a certain section of the French- Canadians against bureaucratic government took place ; a third is the monument to Frs. Guibord, who was long refused burial in consecrated ground on account of membership in a Liberal Institute. The approach is by Cote des Neiges Road from Sherbrooke Street, over the mountain. On this road, at the height of the hill, is to be seen a ruin known as Capitulation Cottage, which is asserted, by tra^'ition, to have been the heackiuarters of General Amherst when he occupied the heights on approaching to the siege of Montreal, then a small walled town miles away. The Hebrew Cemetery is near the gate of the Prr'iestant one. The Chaldaic letters and antique shapes of the tombstones attract the passing attention. The Old Military Cemetery (on Papineau Street) is a relic of several generations ago, and contains the tombs of many well-known officers of the garrison. SKJIITS AND SHRINKS OF MDNTUFAI.. 53 II.— PUBLIC IJUII.IUNdS. The City Hall is, externally, a Iai'|.,'c and exceed ini;ly liaiulsoinc example of iiKuletn P'reiich arcliilcctiire, huilt o( \^rcy cut-stone, snrmounlcd by a l)<)l(l Mansard clock tower and heavy scjuare corner turrets. The interior has a tolerably ele«;ant appearance, produceil by ranj^cs of substantial Corinthian columns and galleries of natural wood. The Council Chamber is small and ineffective, however, and ivmic of the offices remarkable. The debates are conducted in a mixture of French and Knglish speeches, and the officials arc nearly all French. The ground floor is given up to the police head(|uarter.s and the Recorder's Court. The tower affords one of the best views of the harbour and surroundings obtainable. In ascending it, one passes the I'irc Alarm Signal Department, where the electric appliances are quite interesting. Opposite is a long, low, cottage-built building of somewhat shabby mien, situated behind an old-fashioned stone fence. It is the Ch&teau de Ramezay, tempor- arily used for some of the lesser courts, but better known as a repertory of much provincial history. Two tablets upon it set forth a portion of its history. The one relates to its erection, about 1705, by Claude de Ramezay, Governor of Montreal, father of the de Ramezay who is somewhat maligned for surrendering Quebec, notwithstanding the impossibility of continuing its defence. The building later fell into the hands of the Compagnie des Indes Occidentales, and after the British conquest, was used for a considerable period as a residence for the English Governors when here. The 11 ■r 'M 54 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. Other tablet relates to 1775, when the Americans held Montreal for a winter, and sent as commissioners to win over the Canadians, Benjamin Franklin, Samuel Chase and Charles Carroll. The former inscription is as follows: "Chateau de Ramezay. Built about 1705 by Claude de Ramezay, Governor of Montreal 1703. Headquarters of La Compagnie des Indes, 1745. Official residence of the British Governors after the Conquest. Headquarters of the American Army, 1775 ; of the Special Council, 1837." The latter tablet reads: " In 1775 this Chateau was the headquarters of the American Brigadier-General Wooster, and here in 1776, under General Benedict Arnold, the Commissioners of Congress, Benjamin Franklin, Samuel Chase, and Charles Carroll of Carrolton, held council." The vaults beneath are strong and substantial. The council-room is in the front, near the east-end entrance. It is oval at one end. There Franklin and his friends, and Benedict Arnold, retreating from Quebec, held their consultations, and Franklin's weapon, the printing-press, which was set up in the Chateau, must have been one of the chief subjects of discussion. The first printer of Montreal, Fleury Mesplet, was brought by him from Philadelphia, and was, in 1778, to found the earliest newspaper, the Gazette, a small sheet printed partly in French, partly English. His Gazette still flourishes as a morning paper — the third oldest journal in America. From the same council-room Lord Elgin, having, after the rebellion of 1837, signed the unpopular Rebellion Losses Bill, went out to his carriage to be received by an angry populace with showers of rotten eggs and stones. SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 55 The Court House, or Palais dc Justice, opposite the west side of the City Hall, is large, but uninteresting architectually. In* it are held the principal courts for the District of Montreal, and Americans usually experi- ence some curiosity on seeing the robes and cocked hats of the Judges, the antique court costume and side sword of the Sheriff, the gowned h;;r and the Royal Arms, and in hearing the French cases. Events connected with the historical tablets on the edifice are mentio*' J in describing Jacques Cartier Square. In the vaults underneath old and valuable historical records are kept, with the general mass of judicial documents. The Chief Justice of the Queen's Bench for the Province of Quebec is Sir Alex. Lacoste ; the Chief Justice of the Superior Court is Sir Francis Johnson ; the Sheriff is J. R. Thibaudeau. As in the City Hall, nearly all the clerks are French. The system of law in the Province of Quebec, it may be remarked, is, with little doubt, the best in the world. It is substantially the highly-developed and scientific jurisprudence of the Roman Empire, improved by grafting the best parts of modern French and English law. The Post Office on St. James Street, n'^ar the Place d'Armes, is a handsome building in French Renaissance style, but now much too small for the growing volume of business. A couple of bas-reliefs, after designs from Flaxman, are inserted in the portico as mementoes of the old Bank of Montreal, which stood on the same site. The office is o|:>€n from 7.30 a.m. to 7 p.m. for general delivery. There is a Savings' Bank attached, t;;:: '■1 1 M\': 56 SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OF MONTREAL. and nine brancli offices arc disj^crscd aboii: town. In cases of doubt or difficulty, the lilnquiiy Department makes ever) reasonable effort to set matters rii^ht. The city letter rate is 2 cents ; for beyond the ci^y limits the general rate is 3 cents. The Board of Trade is a large and fine building, occupying the whole space between St. Peter and St. Nicholas on St. Sacrament Street. It is constructed of stone, with iron stairways throughout, is six stories in height, and has about 3,000 .Square feet of safety deposit vaults underneath. It contains the Board's exchange hall (about 4,000 feet in area), reading-room, council- room, stock exchange room, etc., the rest of the building being given up to offices. The Corn Exchange stands opposite. The Custom House has been referred to under Custom blouse Square. It might be added that the duties collected are about $iopoo,ooo a year, in round numbers. The Fraser Institute, at the corner of Dorchester and Universit}' Streets, established by the will of the late Hugh Fraser, is the only free public library. It is an illustration of the difficulties of a radically-divided community in establishing general educational institu- tions. It possesses many valuable French works, the former property of the French Public Library Associa- tion, L'Institut Canadien, which it absorbed. The Mechanics' Institute, on the corner of St. James and St. Peter Streets, also carries on a library and reading-room, not, however, free. The Natural History Museum is a centre of a large In "nent The s the i'lng, \ St. ;d of ;s in posit ange ncil- ling nder the >und ister the [t is ided ;itu- the icia- mes and irge HEAD OFFICE OF THE SUN LIFE ASSURANCE CO 1^^ :h:I' !!= ai as it sc St el cV b( li y< w of cr m T th a A at ej cc PJ tb « th SIGHTS AND SHRINES OK MON'rREAL. 57 amount of valuable scientific work, and of several allied associations, such as the Microscopic Club. The Cana- dian Record of Science is published by the Society, and it has close relations with McGill University. A rare scientific library and many valuable specimens are stored in the building. The Art Gallery is a small one, but its building is elegant externally, and the collection within is well chosen, without containing anything great or costly. It belongs to the Art Association, which was founded in i860, but was able to do little until the bequest, some years later, by Benaiah Gibb, an art lover, of the site, with a small collection of paintings, several thousands of dollars and a lot of land. The Gallery was then erected. It has lately received a bequest of the esti- rhated value of about $4,000 a year from the late J. W. Tempest, to be devoted to buying foreign pictures other than American or modern British. In the entrance hall a mural brass to the memory of Benaiah Gibb is placed. A reading-room is at the rear, study-room on the left, and the picture gallery overhead. The occasional loan exhibitions are the great feature, for at such times collections in Europe and the United States, and the private galleries of local men of taste, which, in Montreal, are exceeding rich, bring out treasures of the greatest interest and value. Such works as Millets " Angelus," Breton's " Les Communiantes," Constant's " Herodiade," Watt's " Love and Death," and Turner's " Mercury and Argus " have been exhibited. The Drill Hall is situated on Craig Street, opposite the Champ de Mars. It is a handsome limestone 58 SIOHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. rl ^ building, fitted with quarters for the various volunteer regiments. The main hall is the largest in the place, holding about i5,ocx) people. The Waterworks are situated in the southern corner of the city. The large water-wheels and other machinery are of interest to engineers and those who like such things. The aim is to pump good water from the river above the city up to the two reservoirs on the mountain side, from which distribution takes place. The Bonsecours Market, situated on the water- front near Jacques Cartier Square, is one of the town sights on a market-day, for its scenes of French- Canadian provincial life. Thither on Tuesday and Friday the country habitants flock, with their little carts and their homespun clothing. Amid the jabber of Norman patois^ and a preposterous haggling, worthy of Italy, over the " trente sous," the " neuf francs," or the " un ecu," one catches glimpses, through the jostling crowds, of piles of wooden shoes, brilliant strips of native rag-carpet, French home-made chairs or olive- wood rosaries and metal charms exposed for sale ; and at Easter-tide the display of enormous beeves, decorated with paper roses, green, yellow and red, delight the hearts of the children, the peasants, and those who can still be both. The lover of human nature will observe a thousand studies of character in an early morning's push through these crowds. The building is a massive one of somewhat imposing aspect. It is surmounted by a large dome. The upper part was formerly the City Hall. It stands partly on the site of a house of Sir John Johnson, commander of the Indians during SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 59 the American Revolution, and son of Sir William Johnson, " the Indian baronet ; " and the site is also that of the Palace of the French Intendants. Many houses of the French period exist in this neighbourhood. Next to it, at the north-east end, is the old church of Notre Dame de Bonsecours, which gave the market its name. St. Ann's Market, on Foundling Street, is on the site of the Parliament Buildings, which stood here when Montreal was for a few years the capital of Canada. They were burnt in 1847, amid great uproar, by the same angry mob who rotten-egged Lrrd Elgin for his assent to the Rebellion Losses Bill. The oil portrait of the Queen was loyally cut out and saved during the fire by a young man named Snaith, and is now in the Parliament Buildings at Ottawa. The name of Foundling Street adjoining was given on account of the finding there, in 1755, of an infant stabbed and floating in the ice of the little river which ran here. This it was which excited the compassion of Madame d'Youville, foundress of the Grey Nunnery, and led her to add to the work of that institution the care of abandoned infants, which has now become its principal work. The other principal markets of the city are : St. Lawrence, St. Antoine and St. Jean Baptiste. I CHAPTER IV. 1 >ii ii: CHURCHES. YILLE-Makie having been founded as a community of missionaries and crusaders against the heathen, and the lords of the island having been a seminary of priests, one cannot be surprised to find the great majority of her streets and neighborhoods named after saints, from St. Gabriel and Ste. Cunegonde to St. Louis du Mile End, and to learn that religious devotion is strong to-day. It was the hope of the first settlers to create here h sort of ideal Catholic community — in an early writer's phrase, an " abode of angels." The ecclesiastical censorship, like the Connecticut Blue Law regime, had some good points, such as an earnest opposition to the evils of the brandy trade with Indians ; but its weak- nesses are amusingly pointed out by Baron La Hontan in his letters, about 1690, when, on entering his chamber in his lodgings at Montreal, he found that the Fathers had gone in without permission and torn up the classical romance with which he had been amusing his leisure. w SKIIITS AND SIIIUNKS OF MONTRKAL. 6l New France was early established as an exclusively Catholic colony. Hence, in very j^reat part arose its weakness and downfall. Had a liberal policy been carried out to Huguenot emij^ration, the leadinj.( French- Canadian historian has shown it probable that about 6oo,(X)0 progressive citizens would have been added to its strength, instead of to the prosperity of England, Holland and Germany. As things actually went. New France was to the last feeble, struggling and backward, never able to conquer its Indian enemy, and reaching only the figure of about 70,0CK) inhabitants at the end of its existence in 1760. An ecclesiastical aspect consequently survives. In the east-end of the city, alotig the Sherbrooke Street ridge, the whole town is dominated by a long range of convents and institutions. The priest, the friar, and even the cowled and bare-footed monk pass along the streets seen in their full costumes. Processions of nuns, too, in black, or grey, or buff, and of .seminary students in cap, uniform and blue or green sash. Miracle pilgrim- ages leave the wharves for the shrines of St. Anne at Varennes or Beaupre. And at Christmas, Holy Week, Palm Sunday and All Saints' the churches are sights for large crowds of devotees and visitors. Though a Huguenot company once owned the terri- tory, and though a number of persons of Huguenot origin had taken part in its founding as officers and soldiers who were settled upon its lands, and though a number of chi'd-captives taken during raids into New England were, from time to time, added to the popula- tion, Protestantism only became established with the 63 SIGHTS AND SIIUINKS Ol" MONTKKAI,. -i I ' \ ) ^^ * ;t I Hi'itish cotujucst. I''(M* t^*'o j;cncratioii.s inore tlicrc was a constant inovcnictU, ot ic part of tlic British bureau - ci'iicy, to found some form of State CImrch while the Ang^h'can and Scotch Presbyterian Churches were privi- lc<;ed by law, and Crown Lands, called " Clergy Reserves," were set apart for their maintenance. The s[)irit of progress finally broui;lU about the abolition of the system. The marked contrast of the two religions, Protestant and Catholic, has had the effect of intensifying, while also liberalizing, the religious life of both, and also of making Montreal empluitically and strikingly a city of churches. The numerous spires and chun h cilifices to be seen in every direction are remarked by every visitor. I. — PROTESTANT CIIURC'IIES. Christ Church Cathedral, the most perfect church in Canada architectually, and, it is claimed with consider- able reason, even in the whole of North America, is an exquisite example of the style known as Fourteenth- Century or Decorated Gothic. It was erected in 1859, under the guidance of the late Bishop Fulford, whose enthusiasm in matters of taste made him also the founder of the Art Association. A marble bust of him in the left transept perpetuates his connection with the church, and a beautiful spired monument, modelled after the celebrated Martyrs' Memorial at Oxford, keeps his memory green in the churchyard. From every point this edifice is a delight, so charming is each part and so perfectly harmonious the whole. It is built of rough SlC.lirS ANf) SflKINKS Ol MoNTRKAL. ej c was I /rail - Ic tlie privi- IcrfT^y Tlic Ion of «^rcy limc>iton(\ cinbcllis!ui'MMHaip il^ Ti aoB 83 SIGHTS AND SIIKINES OF MONTREAL. ^'•1 !' % w Hi tradition is related that during her girlhood, long before her conversion to Catholicism, she was pursued by a terrible monster, who attacked her as she was walking by a river. She was saved by an old man, whose features and appearance were thenceforth vividly stamped upon her memory. She was afterwards sent to a convent in Montreal for her education, and became a Romanist. Returning, she visited this convent among some others. She was struck by a picture of St. Joseph, and stood in front of it gazing. " There," exclaimed she, pointing to it, " is he, my preserver ! " and went on to explain ; and thereupon she decided to take the vows of the Grey Nuns ! So runs the tale. The picture remains there still. In the corner of the grounds at Dorchester Street a tall cross of red-stained wood is to be seen, to which a history attaches, called The Story of the Red Cross. The popular narrative is that it marks the grave of a notorious highwayman, who robbed and murdered habitants returning from Montreal to St. Laurent and the back country by way of Dorchester Street, which was, in French times, the only highway west of St. Lawrence Street through the forest. This story is somewhat incorrect* Belisle, the man in question, was not a highway robber ; his crime was housebreaking and a double murder. He lived on Le Grand Chemin du Roi, now called Dorchester Street, near this spot. On the other side of the road, and a little higher up, Jean Favre and his wife Marie Anne lived, who were reputed to have money in . their house and to be well ■)fif. * On the authority of P. S. Murphy, Esq., of the Antiquarian Society. SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 83 ifore jy a king hose nped to a ne a nong sepb, .imed it on vows icturc reet a lich a xfOSS. i of a dered t and 1 was, ^rrence ewhat not a and a kin du On ), Jean :puted ill ■)«•. Sociely. Helisle formed the envious project of robbing his neigh- bour, and accordingly, one dark night, broke into the house and fired his pistol at Favre, which, however, only wounding, he stabbed him to death with a large hunting knife. Favre's wife rushed in to help her husband. Helisle plunged the knife into her breast, and then despatched her by a blow of a spade. He was suspected, and soon after arrested, tried and convicted. The terrible punishment of breaking alive was then in force under French law. Belisle was condemned to " torture ordinary and extraordinary," and then " to have his arms, legs, thighs and reins broken alive on a scaffold to be erected in the market-plate of this city " (the present Custom House Square) ; " then put on a rack, his face towards the sky, to be left to die." The awful sentence was carried out to the letter, his body buried in Guy Street, and a Red Cross erected to mark the spot. The present cross has been moved back a few feet because of a widening of the street. The old Grey Nunnery is situated in its stone-walled yard, now used for coal, near the foot of McGill Street. The original edifice has been lately removed, but the larger erections remain still. The walls and remains of the chapel can be seen from behind, incorporated in warehouses and stores. Notre Dame Hospital, on Notre Dame Street, near Dalhousie Square, is a much smaller institution than the foregoing, but has, like the General Hospital, an open door for all creeds, though managed by Roman Catholics. 84 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. I'l Pi;l •i, ill I! I ■II ,1 Other large establishments are : The Asile de la Providence (St. Catherine Street), under the care of an order of nuns, who, besides caring for the sick, aged and orphans, have the largest Insane Asylum of the Province in their house at Longue Pointe, below the city. The Institution for Deaf Mutes, St. Denis Street. The Deaf and Dumb Institution. The Bon Pasteur Convent, Sherbrooke Stre( \ The Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum, St. Catherine Street. St Patrick's Orphan Asylum, Dorchester Street, near Beaver Hall Hill. About 150 inmates. St. Bridget's Home, Lagauchetiere Street, near Beaver Hall ; St. Joseph's Asylum, 60 Cathedral Street ; Nazareth Asylum and Institute for the Blind, 2023 St. Catherine Street ; Home for the Aged of the Little Sisters of the Poor, 109 Forfar Street. UNIVERSITIES. The celebrated McGill University is one of the finest in America. The grounds are extensive, tree-grown and enclosed with a light, black, iron fence, and the main building, to which an avenue leads from the lodge gates, stands well back on a rise in the distance. To the right and left, partly concealed by trees, are the other buildings of the University. The large and beau- tiful Greek building to the left is the Redpath Museum ; on its left is the affiliated Presbyterian College ; below it the new Library ; further, across McTavish Street, the Congregational College ; above the Museuin, the SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 85 treet), icsides argcst ongue reet. therinc Street, , near Street ; D23 St. Little ic finest ;-gro\vn ind the le lodge ce. To are the id beau- fuseum ; ; below Street, ;uir», the small round tower is the Observatory. In front of the main building, with its Doric portico, is the grave of James McGill ; on the right, the Medical Colley:e, towards the rear ; Ferrier Hall (the Methodist affiliated College), hidden by the other buildings ; then the great McDonald Technical School ; nearer still, the handsome Workman Laboratory of Physics ; and on the extreme left, forming the corner of University Street, the Donalda Ladies' Department. The foreground is occupied by college campus and walks. Behind the whole. Mount Royal rises prominently as a refreshing green back- ground. The institution is entirely the result of the private munificence of a succession of large-hearted merchants. The first and most honoured was the founder, James McGill, one of the old Scotch fur traders, who, in 181 3, bequeathed iJ^ 10,000 and his lands of sixty-four acres here, known as the Manor of Burnside, to the Royal Institution for the Advancement of Learning. His town residence and warehouse was in a building opposite the City Hall, vt^hich bears a tablet of the Antiquarian Society. His country house of Burnside stood a short distance down McGill College Avenue, where the syna- gogue is built. His portrait in the college represents him as a stout, pleasant-tempered man, of superior intelligence, in a powdered queue. The blue-stone monument over his remains in McGill College Grounds reads as below. Part of the letters seem to have been re-cut on removal from the old Dorchester Street Cemetery, and in doing this a mistake has occurred in saying the "4th" instead of the " ist" ^ A L IX 86 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. ■i l; y J^attalion. "To the memory of the Honourable Jumcs McGill, a native of Glasgow, North Britain, and being several years a representative of the City of Montreal in the Legislative Assembly, and Colonel of the 4th Battalion of Montreal Militia, who departed this life on the 19th day of December, 1 81 3, in his 69th year. In his loyalty to his sovereign, and in ability, integrity, industry and zeal as a magistrate, and in the other relations of public and private life, he was con- spicuous ; his loss is accordingly sincerely and greatly regretted." Lower down, near the base, wc read : " This monument, and the remains which it covers, were removed from the old Protestant Cemetery, Dorchester Street, and placed here in grateful remcmbranec of the founder of this University; 25 June, 1875." One Desrivi^res, his step-son, whom he had generously made his heir, did his best to thwart the bequest by refusing possession of either the land or the money, and even had the singular ill-faith to plead at law that the trustees had not built the college within the time^ten years — stated in the will. The judge severely com- mented on his conduct, compelled him to render up both money and land, and the institution was begun. Its early fortunes were so varied, that it was forced to sacrifice the most of its land, which extended down to Dorchester Street, and at one time it is said that only the tenacity of a man of superior temperament and intelligence, Professor William TurnbuU Leach, later Archdeacon of Montreal, kept it in existence. It has now possessions valued at several millions. Morrin College, Quebec, and St. Francis College, Richmond, SIUIITS AND SIIUINES OV MONTREAL. «■ arc colleges of the University. The University is undenominational IVotestant. Its faculties arc : Arts, Medicine, Applied Science, Law and Comparative Ana- tomy. Of these, the Medical is most widely celebrated. The entire number of students is about i,ckx), sending out annually a stream of educated men who achieve the highest positions. The Principal is Sir William Dawson. The Redpath Museum, especially the great hall, is finished and arranged very beautifully in Greek spirit. Among other things, it contains on exhibition a magni- ficent geological collection, the work, in large part, of Sir William Dawson ; the model of a gigantic megathe- rium, a weird collection of wood-carvings by the Thlin- kit Indians of the Pacific Coast, the exquisite shell collection of the late Dr. P. P. Carpenter, aboriginal skulls and remains from the site of Montreal and other localities, and the skclton of a whale caught in the St. Lawrence opposite the city. The Redpath Library is a recent gift capable of holding i5o,ocx) volumes. It contains about 35,000, and has spacious reading-rooms for men and women, and study-rooms of the best construction, with other appli- ances. Though small in number of books, it is especially rich in works relating to Canada, in historical pamphlets,' and in scientific works. The fac-simile of Domesday Book and its iron chest is a curiosity. Besides this general library, others of considerable value are found in the Medical College, the Faculty of Applied Science, and the various Theological Colleges, that of Morrice Hall (Presbyterian) being most notable. 88 SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OK MONTRKAI.. < i l!l lilllil The McDonald Technical Building should be frone over. It IM one of the best-etiuippcci buiklinKs for technical training; in America. The Workman Physics Building is also very interesting. The amusements of the students are mainly football, tennis, cricket and (General athletics. The campus and tennis-grounds arc good for these purposes. Bishops' University (l\piscopal) and Victoria Uni- versity arc represented in Montreal by Medical Colleges only. Laval University, of Quebec (French Roman Catho- lic), is in process of establishing itself here, and will probably do so on a large scale. It has a flourishing law school, and is taking over the Victoria Medical College, but has not yet erected buildings. OTHER EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. The duality of Protestant and Catholic is even more sharply defined in educational institutions than in benevolent. The Provincial Council of Public Instruc- tion is divided into two — a Protestant and a Catholic branch, and taxation is separate. Local management is in the hands of separate Boards of Protestant and Catholic Commissioners. The chief schools under the former in Montreal are the High School for Boys and High School for Girls, which occupy different portions of the High School Building on Peel Street, and the Normal School, for training of teachers, on Belmont Street. The number of pupils in the first is about 250 ; in the second, about 300 ; and in the last, about 100. SIGHTS AND SHRINKS OK MONTREAL. 89 The Hoys' Ili^yh School was orli»inally the Royal Grammar School, and afterwards a ilepartmeiit of McGill University. There arc in the city sixteen common schools under tho IVotcstant Commissioners, besides Trafalgar Institute for Women aiul many jjood private schools, such as the College of Commerce (Drummond Street) and the Business College (Victoria Square). The principal schools of the Roman Catholic Com- missioners are the Plateau Street Academy and the Kcole Normale on Sherbrooke Street, both excellent French schools, occupying noble buildings. They arc for boys alone, Roman Catholic girls being sent to convents. The Catholic Commissioners have, besides, a number of other schools under their care. Altogether, the city contains 4 Catholic "colleges," 36 "academies," 31 " schools." Some of the French establishments are interesting from their historical associations or foreign air. Those named colleges are of the nature of high schools. The S^minaire de St. Sulpice, or Grand Seminary, for the training of priests, has been already described under Place d'Armcs. Its junior branch, the College de Montreal, or Petit S^minaire, is situated on Sherbrooke Street V^est, on " the Priests' Farm," an ancient property of the Order. Its large buildings are built upon the site of one of the earliest edifices of Montreal, the country house of the Grand Seminary, known as the Maison des Messieurs, or Fort de la Montagne, around which the village of the I ■' » II II— JfcAJl 90 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. Ih'iiir: m Indian converts was placed. The Maison des Messieurs, now represented by two historic towers, standing as relics of a mediaeval past, was a large rough old edifice of plastered stone, three stories high in the centre and two elsewhere, iurmounted by roofs resembling those of the present Grand Seminary, pinnacled and curved in the inimitable old French roof-curves. An extensive THE OLD SEMINARY TOWERS. stone wall enclosed it for purposes of fortifications, while the pair of towers formed part of the wall in front, and between them was the entrance. In a walled enclosure adjoining, to the eastward, was the Indian village ; in another, to westward, large gardens. One of the old towers, in very early times, was used as a chapel of the Indian mission established here, the other being used as a school. A tablet in the former reads in ^ii^: SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 91 jieurs, ':\Q as idifice e and those urved snsive ^/^ ^ itions, front, ,valled ndian )ne of :hapel being ,ds in French : " Here rest the mortal remains of Francois Thoronhiongo, Huron ; baptized by the Reverend Pere Brebceuf. He was by his piety and by his probity the example of the Christians and the admiration of the unbelievers: he died, aged about 100 years, the 21st April, 1690." What untold histories, traditions and reminiscences doubtless died with this centenarian savage ! And baptized by P^re Brebceuf! The latter was a hero of one of the most dreadful martyrdoms recorded. In 1649, he and Father Lalement, both Jesuits, were tor- tured to death by Iroquois with every cruelty devisable. In the other, " the Schoolmistress of the Mountain," an Indian sister of great repute for sainthood, taught, and to her a memorial reads as follows : " Here rest the mortal remains of Marie Ther^se Gannensagouas, of the Congregation of Notre Dame. After having exercised during 13 years the office of schoolmistress at the Mountain, she died in reputation of great virtue, aged 28 years, the 25th November, 1695." Over the door of the western wing one reads : " Hie evangelibantur Indi " — " Here the Indians were evan- gelized." A tablet on the wall in front, on Sherbrooke Street, records the founding of the Indian mission in 1677, and the facts concerning the Towers. Some distance along the wall eastwards is still another tablet, marking the position of General Amherst's army at the time of the surrender of the town to the English power. Within the grounds may often be seen crowds of •^ttfrnmrnfm mK'l.l "I 1*: I 11 ' I IP' Ill II ! lit. 92 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. boys uniformed in black frock coats, blue sashes and peaked caps, playing ball or tennis in their high stationary tennis-court, or discoursing music as a well- equipped band. Within the college the theatre w»uld be found an important amusement. The curriculum is divided into two parts : theology and philosophy. Boys are taken from early years upwards. In the last years they choose either to study for the priesthood or for other occupations, and thus separate. The course is based largely on the* classical languages, declamation and the philosophy of Thomas Aquinas. The number of pupils and students of all parts of the institution is about 450. Further up on the hill, for the Seminary here owns an immensely valuable and large tract, stand two other buildings, one an old country house of the order, with grove of trees and ornamental pond, the other, higher up, a handsome new institution for the headquarters of the Order. St. Mary's College, the school of the Jesuit Fathers,- has been referred to in connection with the Church of the G^su, which it adjoins, on Bleury Street. The Board of Arts Schools, on St. Gabriel Street, opposite the Champ de Mars, should be added as meriting inspection. The Christian Brothers* Schools are on Cot^ Street. For girls, the great convents are those of the Nuns of the Congregation, Mount St. Mary and the Hochelaga Convent. Tlieir curriculum consists chiefly of the accomplishm jnts : music, sewing, religious instruction, deportment, etc. SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 93 The Nuns of the Congregation, or Sisters of the Congregation de Notre Dame, are the great teaching order, having convents in most of the large villages of the Province and many others throughout Canada and the United States. They have here their two most interesting establishments of the kind, being the older and newer mother houses of the community. Both buildings are of historic interest. The older is in the lower town, and reached by a gateway from Notre Dame Street, opposite St. Lambert Hill ; the newer is a vast and magnificent structure, whose group of spires appears prominently on the extreme south-westerly slope of Mount Royal. One of the most famous pioneers of French Canada, Marguerite Bourgeoys, the earliest school teacher of the colony, a devoted and sensible person, founded the order. She is greatly revered in the history of her people. Her first school was established at Boucher- ville, on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, at a point now marked by a memorial inscribed cross. On entering the quaint gateway from Notre Dame Street, one sees to the right the gable of the curious little building of stone, described previously as Notre Dame de Victoire, one of the most antique relics of Montreal's past. Passing on, one sees ahead a cut-stone church, of no great size, but bearing an inscription stating that it is erected on the site of one built in 1693 by Marguerite Bourgeoys herself A view to the left from this point shows the convent surrounding its court-yard in the shape of ranges of buildings of an ancient appearance. £33 ^^m !!:. 94 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. Hi Within are many quaint relics, among others a curious contemporary painting in black and white of Mdlle. Le Ber. A tablet reads : " Congregation of Notre Dame, founded by Marguerite Bourgeoys. Convent built 1686. Jeanne Le Ber lived here solitary from 1695 to 17 14." The newer mother-house, called Villa Maria, is, as has been stated, on the Mountain-side at Cote St. Antoine, where it is especially prominer^ at the hour when its spires, cross the sunset. A magnificent chapel is the chief attraction. There are large grounds, which originally belonged to an old family named Monk, whence the name Monklands, and afterwards were the place of residence of several of the Governor-Generals. Their dwelling is incorporated among the new buildings. The number of sisters here is about 270 ; but the order has 105 establishments, with some 1,200 sisters and about 25,000 pupils. The Hochelaga Convent and Mount St. Mary are convents of a similar nature, but much less splendor or interest. A number of American pupils are boarders. i;;:!--; RELIGIOUS ORDERS. Several communities of old-world monks and cloistered nuns are represented in Montreal. The Trappists, though only occasionally seen as single members on the streets, are a most interesting Order, exhibiting a perfect picture of a mediaeval com- munity of monks. They wear a long coarse brown woollen robe and cowl, shave the head and observe perpetual silence, except when spoken to by their Superior. Their specialty is agriculture, and their head- SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 95 >f quarters their monastery and beautiful farm of i,ooo acres at Oka, some 30 miles above the city. There every person is hospitably received and kept as long as he desires to stay, on the understanding that he does so for religious meditation. The curious mediaeval meals of bread and vegetables twice a day, the wondrous old psalters used by each monk in the chapel, the strange silence, the flagel!ation scourges, cells, rude beds, and the intense absorption of some of the devotees make up a fascinating sight. The Carmelites are nuns of a still severer regime, and have their convent at Hochelaga. Its walls arc very high, and the sisters (who are few in number) have, by the vows of this order, renounced the sight of the outside world for the remainder of their lives. The lives of cloistered nuns, even when of teaching or hospital orders, are always sad : what, then, must those of these sisters be ? SOCIETIES. Literature, Science, Art, History, Antiqnarianistn. The Natural History Society was mentioned in con- nection with its Museum. The Numismatic and Antiquarian Society is the most active of the historical associations. It was founded December 15, 1862; under the title of "The Numismatic Society of Montreal," with a membership of French and English gentlemen — a dual racial character which has happily characterized it ever since, and makes it one of the not least effective influences of harmony and goodwill in the community. In 1866 the name was 1 i r 96 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. liiiii ii I I iiiii IB changed to its present title, and in 1869 an act of incorporation was obtained. In the Natural History Museum the society preserves and adds to its consider- able collection of coins, medals, maps, books and manuscripts. In the Caxton celebration year it held a memorable exhibition of rare books ; in 1887, a unique exhibition of historical portraits, the catalogue of which remains a list of value to historians ; the Maisonneuve Monument is its proposal ; and the Historical Tablets, suggested by one of its members, have been erected by this society. It publishes the valuable Antiquarian Journal. The Soci^t^ Historique, another old society, has also done valuable work, re-published a tiumber of most rare manuscripts, including Dollier de Casson's " Histoire du Montreal," and has in hand a proposed monument for the landing-place of Maisonneuve, to consist of a granite obelisk, with inscription. The society contains, among other possessions, the Sabretache portfolio of Com- mander Jacques Viger, which furnished material to the historians Parkman and Kingsford. The Society for Historical Studies published Capia- diana for some years, and assisted in disseminating the love of history. The Society of Canadian Literature opened up the Beld of Canadian letters, and still exists for occasional work of the same nature. The Folk-Lore Club, the Shakespeare Club, the Microscopical Society, the Horticultural Society, Mendelssohn Choir, Philharmonic Society, are some names of the better-known associations. SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 97 SPORTS, PASTIMES, THEATRES, CLUHS, ETC. A thUtics, Athletics are the deh'ght of Montreal. Here alone are the Winter Carnival and Ice Palace possible — at least, at their best. Here, too, the Indian pleasures of the lacrosse, the toboggan and the snowshoe, associated with the bright old voyixgcur blanket costume, are in their native air ; here the Scotch curling-rinks took root generations ago as solidly-established institutions ; while cricket, football, tennis, fox-hunting, fishing, shooting, rowing, yachting, golf and all the Anglo-Saxon games are devotedly pursued. The use of the blanket costume for purposes of sport is attributed by some to the enthusiasm of the British army colony ; but there is no doubt but that it is a legacy from the Old North- Westers. The Montreal Amateur Athletic Association is the largest organization of the athletic interest. It has some 2,000 members, a well-equipped club-house and headquarters, and a large stretch of superb grounds on the west edge of the city. The association had its beginning, in 1840, in the shape of the Montreal Snow- shoe Club, now familiarly known as " the Old Tuque Blue," frdm the blue woollen habitanfs liberty cap, worn as a part of the costume. The club, in conse- quence of its long standing, preserves a rich display of trophies in its rooms. It has always thrown its influence on the side of temperance, public progress and national spirit. It has at times organized vigorous movements against attempts to establish saloons within its district ; H ('' OS SIOIITS AND SHRINKS OF MONTRKAL. :','> '} : I Iflll' I! l!ll l! has fjivcn large numbers of Its members to the militia, especially in times of danger ; and was the originator and mainstay of the winter carnivals and of the snow- shoe concert. In winter its snowshoers tramp over the Mountain or to Lachine, and sometimes farther, ending up by a jolly dance and supper ; in summer, the games of lacrosse on its suburban grounds absorb the same interest. Lacrosse, as played on these grounds, is the most spectacular game existing. Its simplicity, the rapidity and grace of flight of the ball, and the lightning changes of fortune or strokes of skill, immediately enchain the attention and excite the blood. The clubs now included in the Association are : The Montreal Snowshoe Club, the Montreal Lacrosse Club, the Montreal Bicycle Club, the Tuque Bleue Toboggan Club, the Montreal Football Club, the Montreal Gym- nasium, the M.A.A.A. Dramatic Club, the Cinderella Club, the Montreal Fencing Club, the Montreal Hockey Club, the Tuque Blcue Skating Rink, the Montreal Baseball Club, the Montreal Chess Club. fh<* club-house is on the corner of Mansfield and Berthelet Streets. It contains, besides the gymnasium, reading, bowling, shooting and billiard-rooms, offices and a number of committee and other apartments. The St. George's Snowshoe Club is also a large affair. Its house is on the hillside at Cote St. Antoine. The membership originally consisted principally of Englishmen, whence the name St. George's. This club, like the M.A.A.A., has Iramps and dances in winter, and is very popular. Le Trappeur is the principal French Snowshoe Club. •' SIGHTS AND SIIKINES OF MONTREAL. 99 Tiilitin, jinator snow- I'cr the ending grimes i sanne , is the ty. the [htning diately e : The e Club, boggan I Gym- idcrella hockey ontreal ;ld and nasium, offices s. large uitoine. ally of This ices in DC Club. Its costume is blue and white. The club rooms arc on St. Lawrence Street, at the corner of Craig. The Victoria Skating Rink, on Drummond Street, is an old institution, with history and prestige, a very large skating hall, and fame for fancy dress carnivals. A number of other athletic clubs exist, but are more subject to change than the foregoing. The Montreal Hunt Club's elegant " Kennels," on the Papineau Road, are the /oca/e of very favourite balls. The pack is an old one, which has been improved upon from the foundation of the club in 1826. The fox- hunting of the club is done in the country districts of the island immediately surrounding the city, and their " breakfasts " at the table of some friend or member are ^^ n^cherclit! affairs." They also hold steeplechases and other races every year. •• Canoeing, boating and yachting are much in vogue, thou,^h usually carried on in the watering-places which surround the island, such as Lachine, Dorval, Valois, Pte. Claire, Ste. Anne, Longueuil, Laprairie and Ste. Rose. The Lachine, Valois and Ste. Anne Boat Clubs' club-houses are the chief centres of such amusements. Regattas are held at these places and others during the season. TheCitres. The principal Theatres are : The Academy of Music, Victori^i Street ; the Queen's Theatre, St. Catherine Street, near English Cathedral ; the Theatre Royal, Cot^ Street. Sohmer Park, on Notre Dame Street East, is a " garden " where music&l and French variety performances are given. loo HUniTS AND SIIKINES OK MONTKKAL. M ! s - 1 C/uds. St Jamet' Club, Dorchester Street West, establisheil in 1857, is the leading; social club. It has 460 mcmbeis and a finely-appointed club-house. The Metropolitan Club, on Heaver Mall Hill, i:^ a flourishing resort of younger men. The City Club is the down-town dining-placc of many business men. The St. Denis Club, St. Denis Street, is the leading French Club. The M.A.A.A. and Y.M.C.A. club-houses serve most of the purposes of social clubs to their members. •,l/4c«FJ 3r the app'ar- other ; ; for a lawks^ le and )quois. p and kneel- Thirst now became presslnjj, for the river was 200 paces away, and this want caused the Indian allies to send and treat for peace with the enemy. On assur- ances of life, thirty leaped the palisades and deserted, thus fatally weakening the besiej^ed. Messengers were then sent forward to propose surrender to the latter ; but the French for answer fired upon them. This so enraged the Irocjuois, that they all rose up, ferociously rushed at the palisade with heads down, and began to sap it with their axes in the face of the heavy fire. The French called up all their courage and industry in this extremity. Among other efforts they took up a keg of powder, lit a fuse to it, and threw it out among the assailants. It unfortunately struck a branch, sprang back into the fort, and exploded, burning most of the defenders and blinding them with its fumes. The Iroquois were so elated, that they sprang furiously over the palisade on all sides, hatchet in hand, and filled it with blood and carnage, killing all but five of the French and four Hurons, among the slain being the brave Anahotaha, who, dying, begged his comrades to thrust his head in the fire, so that no Iroquois should have the glory of taking his scalp. At this moment a Frenchman arose. Seeing that all was lost, and that several of his companions, while fatally wounded, still survived, he finished them with great strokes of an axe, to deliver them from the Iroquois fires. The foe took their revenge by terrible tortures of the living, and by eating their flesh. But the design, before formed in their councils, of overrunning and finally exterminating the French settlement was thenceforward abandoned. I r >. 114 SKIIITS AND SHRINKS OK MONTKKAL If seventeen French, with but five allies, couid fight so well, whtit mit;ht the rest do if pushed to an extremity? The whole colony was thus saved from peril and de- struction by the deed of the heroes of the Long Sault. What thoiii^li hckidc the fonmini; IUhhI uutoiuhcd their a»hei lie, All earth Itecomea the mutuiiiicnt of men who nobly ilie. " The spirit of the enterprise," says Parkman, " was purely medijuval. The enthusiasm of honour, the enthusiasm of adventure and the enthusiasm of faith were its motive forces. Daulac (I)ollard) was a knight of the early Crusades among the forests and savages of the New World. Yet the incidents of this exotic heroism are definite and clear as a talc of yesterday. The names, ages and occupations of the seventeen young men may still be read on the ancient register of the Parish of Montreal." THE GREAT KARTn(,)UAKE. The signs and wonders attributed to the Great Earth- quake of 1662, which endured for some six months, and was considered a miraculous time of visitation for the sins of the colony, were such as these : " For forty days," s'ay- a narrator, " we saw from all points of this town mon on horseback who rushed through the air richly robed and armed with lances, like troops of cavalry ; steeds ranged in squadrons which dashed forth against each other ; combatants, who joined battle hand to hand ; shields shaken ; a multitude armed in helmets and naked swords ; where- fore they prayed God to turn these prodigies to their advantage." '%^-L SIGHTS AND SIIKINES OK MONTKEA^ "5 ;ht so mity ? id tlc- lUlt. " was r, the f faith knight igcs of exotic tcrday. cntccn istcr of Earth- IS, and for the •om all rushed lances, ladrons jatants, loody they •ut on or the friend tanccs ience ; some, id out finest en the scanty would The of and tre the stuck of our armed ;h they 11 fires ninable torture ised to ^, which id been lese un- :ourage. mple of oners. I) DWELLING-PLACES OF CELEBRITIES, ETC. La Salle. On a building at the corner of St. Peter and St. Paul Streets is seen the inscription : " Here lived Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, 1668." La Salle, one of the most attractive and chivalrous characters of those days, was born in 1643, of a rich and ancient merchant family of Rouen ; was with the Jesuits in his youth ; in 1666, came out to Montreal, where he had a brother, Abb6 Jean Cavelier, a priest of St. Sulpice. Ville-Marie, the Castle Dangerous of the time, no doubt attracted his adventurous nature. The Seminary soon offered to him the grant of a seigniory of wild lands at Lachine, where he began fv> found a settlement, laying out a palisaded village. Hearing, however, of the Mississippi, his imagination took fire, and he threw himself into the project of following it to its mouth, which, he contended, must lead into the Gulf of Mexico. Frontenac encouraged him, the Seminary bought out his improvements. He built Fort Frontenac on the site of Kingston. He went to France, where the court favoured his projects. In 1679, he embarked on Lake Erie. He reached the Mississippi in 1682, followed its course to the Gulf of Mexico, returned to France, and sailed thence direct to Louisiana, where he perished by assassination in the wilds by two mutineers among his men in 1687. Parkman's " La Salle and the Dis- covery of the Great West " relates at length the brilliant story of his discoveries. The house upon the site of which the tablet is placed Ii8 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 'm 'I ill has long since disappeared. It was leased by him on the 15th of November, 1668, from Sieur Rabutel de St. Andre, a comparatively wealthy proprietor of houses. Du Luih. On the Place d'Armes, at the street corner nearest the Parish Church, is a tablet reading : " In 1675, here lived Daniel de Gr^solon, Sieur Dulhut, one of the explorers of the Upper Mississippi ; after whom the City of Duluth was named." Dulhut, or Du Luth, was a masterly man. In France he was in the army as a gentleman soldier — Gendarme of the King's Guard. In 1677, he left the army, and coming to Canada, went among the Sioux of the West as a rover, remaining about three years, solely exploring. He was then appointed commander of posts in the West, including Detroit, until recalled to Montreal in 1688. Some say he then built the first fortifications of Montreal — of palisades. Next year, during the panic which followed the Iroquois invasion of Montreal, he, with 28 Canadians, attacked 22 Iroquois in canoes, on the Lake of Two Mountains, received their fire without returning it, bore down upon them, killed 18 of them and captured 3. He died about 17 10. La Mothe Cadillac. Tablet on Notre Dame Street, just east of St. Lambert Hill : " In 1694, here stood the house of La Mothe Cadillac, the founder of Detroit." m^ SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 119 im on de St. ses. ;st the , here of the m the I. In Idler — ift the oux of solely in the real in ions of panic lal, he, :anoes, jir fire i 18 of imbert Mothe Cadillac was an able man, but bore a bad reputation. He commanded at Detroit, and is generally called its founder ; but a fort was built near the present city before his time. His wife superintended his warehouse here, and sold his merchandise as it came from the West. UAillebodt de Coulonge. The tablet sufficiently explains this name : " Chevalier Louis d'Ailleboust de Coulonge, one of the chief defenders of Ville-Marie, of which he was Governor, 1645-1647. Fourth Governor of New France, 1648- 165 1. Died 31 May, 1660." (Place of erection not yet decided, but to be somewhere near the Custom House.) His arrival with a small force of soldiers, and his personal courage, were a great assistance to Maisonneuve. Charles LeMoyne — Iberville — Bienville. For J.. G. Mackenzie & Co.'s store, St. Paul Street, just east of Custom House Square, are proposed three tablets. The first is : " Here was the residence of Charles LeMoyne, one of the companions of Maisonneuve. Among his children, Charles, first Baron of Longueuil Jacques, Sieur de Ste. i.I61ene ; Pierre, Sieur d'Iberville Paul, Sieur de Maricour ; Francois, Sieur de Bienville I. Joseph, Sieur de Serigny ; Frangois Marie, Sieur de Sauvalle ; Jean Baptiste, Sieur de Bienville H. ; Gabriel, Sieur d'Assigny ; Antoine, Sieur de Chateauguay ; ren- dered the colony illustrious." Charles LeMoyne, subject of this rather long inscrip- tion, right-hand man of de Maisonneuve, and father of sons celebrated in the annals of New France, was the I20 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. i •ii ' H Wl son of an innkeeper of Dieppe, but withal p most fearless and intelligent man. He came from France a youth only fifteen, was sent among the Indians forthwith to be an interpreter, and caught the spirit of warlike forest life. He several times saved Ville-Marie from Indian attacks, at one time just saving the Hotel Dieu. At another he walked coolly down to a war-party of Iroquois and marched them up to the fort at the point of his pistols. Point St. Charles is named from him, his farm having extended thither along the shore. About fourteen years after Ville-Marie was founded, he was given the seigniory of Longueuil opposite, which he proceeded to settle, fortify and develop in an able manner. Through this source, with the fur trade and the furnishing of public supplies, he amassed compara- tive wealth. His cousin and partner, LeBer, became the richest merchant of the country. LeMoyne's eldest son became Baron of Longueuil, having built there, in 1699, a fine feudal castle, which existed till the end of last century. The tablets to D'Iberville and Bienville need no comment. They are as follows : " Here was born, in 1661, Pierre LeMoyne, Sieur d'Iberville, Chevalier de St. Louis. He conquered Hudson's Bay for France, 1697 ; discovered the mouths c^ the Mississippi, 1699. First Governor of Louisiana, 1700. Died at Havana, 1706." " Jean Baptiste LeMoyne, Sieur de Bienville ; born in 1680. In company with his brother, d'Iberville, he discovered the mouths of the Mississippi, 2 March, 1699 ; founded New Orleans in 1717 ; and was Governor of Louisiana for forty years. Died at Paris, 1768." SIGHTS AND SHRINES OP MONTREAL. 121 The First Schoolmaster. On the corner of Notre Dame and St. Sulpicc Streets : ** Here M. de LaPrairie opened the first private school in Montreal, 1683." This is the same property which Du Luth at one time leased and occupied. The De Catalogue House. In a neighbourhood of old houses, on St. Vincent Street, adjoining Rickett's Saloon, is a long dwelling of two stories and attic, well-preserved and strong. This was the home built for himself by the Engineer of the first Lachine Canal, and the one first concerned in the plans of the earliest stone fortification walls. On the 30th of October, 1700, Dollier de Casson, for the Seminary, passed an agreement with de Catalogne, therein described as " officer in the Marines and Royal Surveyor," whereby the latter was to excavate a canal from the Grand or St. Lawrence River to the River St. Pierre. The cut was to be twelve French feet wide and nine deep, the length some 800 yards, the price 3,000 livres (francs), and the time of completion June, 1701. It was the first canal contract in Canada. The canal was begun, but never completed, the amount of rock to be excavated constituting the final difficulty. As far as de Catalogne is concerned, he claimed the death of de Casson, which happened in October, 1 701, to have been the cause, and that his death cost the former "^ oking, r time annon. ccd by re was, >vernor tion, by s their rison," 'Vench svvered rarities ig the to the der the iiing of ilation. on St. e, how- ey had il con- if these transactions. A tradition asserts that the keys of the city were ^ivcn over by a wonum. On the evening' of the Sth.a British force, connnandcd by Colonel llaUiitnand, afterwards (iovernor, entered the Kecollet (iate by arrangement, and took possession of tlie Recollet (Juarter, which was then largely open space, chiefly coveretl by the ganlens of tlie monastery. The l^'rencli withdrew to their camp by tlic citadel at the other c\k\ of the town. On the 9th, the Journal of Levis records: "They (the British) sent a detachment upon the Place d'Armcs with artillery whither our battalions marched to lay down tlieir arms, one after the other, and return to the camp they occupied on the rampart. M. le Chevalier de Levis then reviewed them. The enemy took possession of the posts and all the watches of the city." A few days later, what was left of the troops of Trance embarked, with their chiefs, on the way home. Among the other interesting men whom the invasion brought to Montreal, was the one to whom the tablet on the Dalhousie Square Fire Station, next the old military headquarters, is erected, witli the words : "To Brigadier- General Thomas Gage, second in command under Amherst; first British Governor of Montreal, 1760; after- wards last British Governor of Massachusetts. 1775." He it was who kept New York City a British strong- hold all through the Revolution. ji^^^ai !«- tiii:,:! \ m ^'M 130 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. Sir William Johnson. A tablet relating to another well-known nfian in colonial history stands upon the Bonsecouis Market, where was the residence of his son. It reads : " Sir William Johnson, of Johnson Hall on the Mohawk River, the celebrated Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and first American Baronet, commanded the Indian allies with Amherst's army in 1760. To them was issued, in commemoration, the first British Montreal medal. Here stood the house of his son, Sir John Johnson, Indian Commissioner." Burton. The house where this Hero of Quebec long resided stood on St. Paul Street, opposite the Bonsecours Mar- ket. His daughter married General Christie (the second Commander-in-chief of the Forces in Canada of that name), who added the name of Burton to his own. A fine portrait of Burton is in the Art Gallery. The inscription for the site of his residence is : " Site of the house of General Ralph Burton, second Governor of Montreal, 1763. He executed, on the Plains of Abra- ham, at Wolfe's dying command, the military operation which finally decided the day." The reference is to Wolfe's last words : " * Who run ? ' Wolfe demanded, lilie a man roused from sleep. * The enemy, sir. Egad they give way everywhere ! ' * Go one of you to Colonel Burton,* returned the dying man ; 'tell him to march Webb's regiment down to Charles River, to cut off their retreat from the Bridge.' Then SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 131 lan in [arket, : "Sir ohawk \ffairs, Indian [Ti was ontreal r John resided rs Mar- second of that vvn. A r. The ; of the rnor of .f Abra- Deration o run ? ' 'The ' 'Go ig man ; Charles Then turning on his side, he murmured : * Now, God be praised, I will die in peace ! ' " * It might also have been added that Burton was dis- tinguished for courage in the disastrous blunder of the Monongahela. The North- Westers. The North-West Fur Company's stores, around which so much history in adventure, discovery and commerce centres, arc on St. Gabriel Street, opposite the Fire Station, near Notre Dame Street. Hither came Sir Alexander Mackenzie and Simon Fraser (the dis- coverer), Alexander Henry, John Jacob Astor, Wash- ington Irving, McTavish, Franchere, the Highland laird, the English general, the Indian brave. The tall, peaked warehouse, neatly built of stone and protected by iron shutters, which faces one looking through the gateway, carries the date " 1793," sur- ix)unded by four stars. The company was an association composed of the principal Scottish and French-Canadian merchants, who had replaced the French traders to the West. As, by their activity, system and enterprise, they greatly improved their business and extended its territory, they both became wealthy local men of their time, and also the rivals of the older Hudson's Bay Company. The newer association was organized in 1783. "The sleepy old Hudson's Bay Company," says one writer, " were astounded at the magnificence of the new-comers, and old traders yet talk of the lordly Nor*- Wester. It was in those days that Washington Irving * Parkman's '* Montcalm and Wolfe." I' 'ii u " hi': ; III r:'! ' .'! , . 1 132 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. was their guest w'.ien he made his memorial journey to Montreal. The agents who presided at headquarters were veterans that had grown grey in the wilds, and were full of all the traditions of the fur trade ; and around them circled the laurels gained in the North." " To behold the North- West Company in all its state and grandeur," writes Irving himself in Astoria, "it was necessary to witness the annual gathering at Fort William, near what is now called the Grand Portage, on Lake Superior. On these occasions might be seen the change since the unceremonious times of the old French traders, with their roystering cotireiirs de bois. Now the aristocratic character of the Briton, or rather the feudal spirit of the Highlander, shone out magnificently; every partner who had charge of an interior post, and had a score of retainers at his command, felt like the chieftain of a Highland clan. To him, a visit to the grand con- ference at Fort William was a most important event, and he repaired thither as to a meeting of Parliament. The partners from Montreal were, however, the lords of the ascendant. They ascended the rivers in great state, like sovereigns making a progress. They were wrapped in rich furs, their huge canoes freighted with every convenience and luxury. Fort William, the scene of this important meeting, was a considerable village on the banks of Lake Superior. Here, in an immense wooden building, was the great council-chamber, and also the banqueting-hall, decorated with Indian arms and accoutrements and the trophies of the fur trade. The great and weighty councils were alternated with huge feasts and revels." SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 133 ney to larters s, and ; and th." s state ' it was t Fort age, on len the French ow the feudal ; every i had a hieftain id con- t event, iament. lords of at state, irrapped every cene of lage on mmense 3er, and in arms ir trade. ;ed with Alexander Henry. On a house near the foot of St. Urbain Street, on the west side, are the words : " Here lived, 1760- 1824, Alexander Henry, the Traveller, Author and Fur- Trader." Henry was the pioneer of the English fur-trade in the West. He had a thrilling escape from massacre during the well-known capture of Fort Michillimackinac, by the French Indian Pontiac, effected by means of a game of lacrosse, in 1763. Parkman gives an account of his escape in " The Conspiracy of Pontiac," but Henry's own book, " Travels and Adventures in Canada and the Indian Territories," dated from Montreal, and published in 1809, is a well-written narrative of all his adventures. His discoveries extended far to the North, and enabled him to obtain from northern Indians some information of the streams which flow into the Arctic Ocean. Mackenzie. On the premises of Wm. Smith, Esq., near the head of Simpson Street, is a tablet of great interest : " Site of the residence of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, discoverer of the Mackenzie River, 1793, and the first European to cross the Rocky Mountains." For five years, from about 1779, he was in the counting-house of Mr. Gregory, a Montreal merchant, but then went to the North-West Company's Fort Chippewyan on Lake Arthabasca, whence he started on the two momentous expeditions referred to in the tablet. In the first, he travelled a thousand miles northward I' I S: :W 134 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. along the great river of his name, until he neared the Arctic Ocean, In the second, he reached the Pacific. Fraser. The tablet to the British Columbia explorer reads : " To Simon Fraser, Agent of the North- West Company, discoverer of the Fraser River, 1808." This energetic Nor'- Wester is spoken of as a man of stern and repellant manner. He died at St. Andrews', Glengarry, Ontario. Brant — Tecumseh. These chiefs were both here — the first, at a great Indian council held by the Johnsons at Montreal, in the summer of 1775 ; the latter, during the war of 18 12. A tablet recording his visit is being drawn for erection. MONTREAL IN 1666. " Approaching the shore where the city of Montreal now stands, one would have seen a row of small, com- pact dwellings, extending along a narrow street parallel to the river, and then, as now, called St. Paul Street. On a hill at the right stood the windmill of the seigneurs, built of stone and pierced with loopholes to serve, in time of need, as a place of defence. On the left, in an angle formed by the junction of a rivulet with the St. Lawrence, was a bastioned fort of stone. Here lived the military governor, appointed by the Seminary, and commanding a few soldiers of the regiment of Carignan. In front, on the line of the street, were the enclosures ot the Seminary, and nearly adjoining them, those of the SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 135 ed the :ific. reads : -npany, man of idrews', 1 great , in the !i2. A 'on. ontreal 1, corn- parallel Street, gneurs, ;rve, in "t, in an the St. •e lived ,ry, and irignan. sures ot of the Hotel Dieu or Hospital, both provided for defence in case of an Indian attack. In the Hospital enclosure was a small church, opening on the street, and, in the absence of any other, serving for the whole settlement." So writes Parkman. The account, though incorrect in a couple of trifling particulars, is accurate as a general picture. THE CITY IN 1770. The following is from Wynne's " General History of the British Empire in America," 1770 — a title which of itself is food for thought : " Montreal, situated on the island of that name, the second place in Canada for extent, buildings and strength, besides possessing the advantages of a less rigorous climate, for delightfulness of situation is infi- nitely preferable to Quebec. It stands on the side of a hill sloping down to the river, with the south country and many gentlemen's seats thereon, together with the island of St. Helen, all in front, which form a charming landscape, the River St. Lawrence here being about two miles across. Though the city is not very broad from north to south, it covers a great length of ground from east to west, and is nearly as large and populous as Quebec. " The streets are regular, forming an oblong square, the houses well built, and in particular the public buildings, which far exceed those of the capital in beauty and commodiousness, the residence of the Knights Hospitallers (?) being extremely magnificent. There are several gardens within the walls, in which, however, the proprietors have consulted use more than elegance, 136 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. particularly those of the Sisters of the Congregation, the Nunnery Hospital, the Rticollcts, Jesuits, Seminary and Governor. Besides these, there are many oiher gardens and beautiful plantations without the gates, as the garden of the General Hospital, and the improvements of Mr. Liniere, which exceed all the. rest, and are at an agreeable distance on the north side of the town. The three churches and religious houses are plain, and con- tain no paintings nor anything remarkable ". curious, but carry the appearance of the utmost neatness and simplicity. " The city has six or seven gates, large and small, but its fortifications are mean and inconsiderable, being encompassed by a slight wall of masonry, fully calculated to awe the numerous tribes of Indians, who resorted here at all times from the most distant parts for the sake f traffic, particularly at the fair held here every year, which continued from the beginning of June till the latter end of August, when many solemnities were observed ; and the Governor assisted and guards were placed to preserve good order in such a concourse of so great a variety of savage nations. There are no batteries on the walls except for flank-fires, and most of these are binded with planks and loop-holes, made at the embra- sures for musketry. Some writers have represented these walls to be four feet in thickness, but they are mistaken. Tl ey are built of stone, the parapet of the curtains does not exceed twenty inches, and the mertins at the flank-fires are somewhat thicker, though not near three feet. A dry ditch surrounds this wall about seven feet deep, encompassed with a regular glacis. SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 137 " On the inside of the town is a cavalier on an arti- ficial eminence, with a parapet of logs or squared timbers, and six or eight old guns, called the citadel. Such were the fortifications of Montreal, the second place of consequence in Canada, until the enemy raised the siege of Quebec ; and then, in expectation that the English forces would follow them, a battery was erected, with two faces for nine guns, but had only four twelvt- pounders mounted, two pointing to the navigation of the river, and the others to the road leading from Longue Pointe to the town, with a traverse for mus- ketry, elevated on the inside of the battery, for the defence thereof, together with some piquet works, form- ing a barrier to the entrance of the place, with two advanced redoubts, were all the temporary works made for its defence. " The inhabitants, in number about five thousand, are gay and lively, more attached to dress and finery than those of Quebec ; and from the number of silk sacks, laced coats and powdered heads that are con- stantly seen in the streets, a stranger would imagine that Montreal was wholly inhabited by people of inde- pendent fortunes. By the situation of the place, the inhabitants ar2 extremely well supplied with all kinds of river fish, some of which are unknown to Europeans, being peculiar to the lakes and rivers of this country. They have likewise plenty of black cattle, horses, hogs and poultry ; the neighbouring shores supply them with a great variety of game in the different seasons, and the island abounds with well-tasted soft springs which form a multitude of pleasant rivulets." 138 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION IN 1775. Montgomery — Franklin — Arnold, At the outbreak of the Revolution, it was natural that attempts should be made to enlist Canada on the side of the other colonies. The British traders seem, as a body, to have been willing, and at first many of the French also sympathized. General Philip Schuyler invaded the province by Lake Champlain, but falling ill, was replaced by the ill-fated Montgomery. Colonel Ethan Allen was despatched against the city, but on the 25 th of Octob'ir was taken prisoner, and thereafter sent to England. Soon Montgomery appeared ; Governor Sir Guy Carleton, having an exceedingly small force, withdrew to Quebec, and the citizens capitulated On the 13th of November, 1775, at nine o'clock in the morning, he marched in by the R^coUet Gate, and took up his headquarters in the large house on the corner of Notre Dame and St. Peter Streets, inhabited by a mer- chant named Fortier. There a tablet is placed, reading : " Forr^tier House. Here General Montgomery resided during the winter of 1775-6." The house at that time is said to have been the largest and most magnificent in the city. The principal rooms were wainscoted all around up to a certain height, and, above that, tapestried richly with scenes from the life of Louis XIV. Over the principal door is to be seen the date " 1767," underneath a niche intended for a statuette of a saint. Generals Wooster and Benedict Arnold followed Montgomery in possession, the latter proceeding to his SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. 139 death in the gallant attempt to scale the defences of Quebec. In the meantime, the Commissioners of Con- gress, Franklin, Chase and Carroll, as already related, came to the city and brought with them its first printer, Fleury Mesplet. They were compelled to retire before Carleton, their army and cause having become unpopular with the priests and people, and reinforcements having arrived from England. Dorchester. The brave character and the other services of Carleton, afterwards raised to the peerage under the title of Dorchester, are commemorated in the inscription at the corner of Dorchester and Bleury Streets : " This street vyas named in honour of Sir Guy Carleton, Lord Dorchester, commander of the British forces and pre- server of the colony during the American invasion, 1775-76 ; twice Governor of Canada, and by whom the Quebec Act, 1774, was obtained." De la Come. Another officer who distinguished himself in the same campaign was De la Corne, a member of a good old French-Canadian family, the site of one of whose dwellings, either on St. Paul Street, opposite the west corner of Custom House Square, or on Bonsecours Street, is to receive the following : " Here lived the Chevalier Luc de Chapt, Sieur de la Corne and de St. Luc. Sole survivor of the shipwreck of the Augustey 1 76 1. Served with distinction in both the French and English armies. He exercised a great influence over the Indian tribes. Died 31 March, 18 17." 140 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTREAL. f- •'^ w\ If ii.f iU The reference to the Atigiiste is to a ship which sailed for France with the greater part of the French noblesse who had decided to leave the colony. It was unfor- tunately wrecked, and all on board lost except De la Come. The Bonsccours dwelling has just been taken down. Dh Calvet, A notorious adventurer and scamp of the same period was the Swiss Du Calvet, a man of extraordinary plausibility and facility with voice and pen, but who has of late years been conclusively proved to have been false simultaneously to the British, the French-Canadians and the Americans. His r61c with each was that of a wronged patriot. His house stands on St. Paul Street, near the Bonsecours Market. A tablet is being erecte'd here, independently of the Antiquarian Society, by Mr. L. J. A. Papineau. OTHER OLD HOUSES. Other old houses of interest are the Papineau House, on St. Paul Street, near the Bonsecours ; the Marquis de Lotbini^re House (1797), on St. Sacrament Street, opposite the Montreal Telegraph Company's office ; the Sir John Johnson House, in the East End ; the McCord House, in Griffintown. Louis Joseph Papineau was the eloquent leader of the French-Canadians at the period of their rebellion of 1837-8: Chartier De Lotbini^re was a king's engineer under Montcalm ; Hon. John McCord was the leader of the mercantile British party who inclined towards the American Revolution. SIGHTS AND SHRINES OK MONTREAL. '41 On the Papineau House the legend is : " The I*apincau Mouse. Six of their generations have dwelt here." The De Lotbinicre mansion is tablctcd as follows : " Residence of the Marquis de Chartier de Lotbinicre, Engineer-in-Chief of New France, 1755. He fortified Ticonderoga and Isle-aux-Noix. On his advice, Mont- calm attacked Fort William Henry in 1757, and awaited the English at Ticonderoga in 1758." An exquisite little specimen of the rich merchant's residence of an earlier period is the housfi on St. Jean Baptiste Street, occupied by the St. George's Spice Mills. It was probably built about 1680, by a trader named Hubert dit Lacroix. The handsome parlours and their carved -wood mantelpieces, the lofty ware- house room adjoining, the quaint hall and stairway, the curious, elaborated fireplace in the basement, and the high walls of the court-yard, are well worthy of notice by any permitted to see them. A tradition represents the house to have been the residence of one of the Intendants, but the assertion is disputed. The oldest building in Montreal is possibly one owned by Mr. James Coristine, and situated at the rear of his fur establishment on St. Paul Street, just west of St. Nicholas. It is claimed to have been built in 1666, and the vault- ing is to-day perfect and solid and the walls very thick. The dwelling doubtless consisted of a low living-story, above the vaults, and was reached by stone steps in a square tower behind. Though much altered, the build- ing retains traces of its early shape above. Another quaint erection stands next door, with gable 142 SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTRKAL. I. '■^^ on St. Nicholas Street. On its yard face a small image- niche and window give a picturesque appearance. The McTavish Haunted House, This grim tradition has probably been hitherto the Montreal story most circulated among the English- speaking population. In 1805, Simon McTavish, the principal founder of the North-West Company, built a great house on the side of Mount Royal, upon the present property of Mr. Andrew Allan. He died before it was quite finished, and as it was left deserted, in a lonely situation, tradition had it that he had hanged himself in it. Dreadful sounds, particularly a horrible gurgling as if breath, were thereafter heard within by those who passed. On the tin roof, in the light of the moon, spirits were seen dancing. Few persons would approach, far less anybody inhabit it, and the mansion gradually fell more and more into decay and disfavour. A form of the legend was that the proud North- wester built the house prepaj itory to the coming of his family from Scotland ; that his wife, a high-spirited woman, objected to coming out to a rude new country, but the husband hoped to surprise her upon her arrival by the presentation of a beautiful and well-appointed home ; that or.j night, as the house was near its com- pletion, .some mysterious impulse moved him to visit it (for he lodged meanwhile at a farmhouse in the neigh- bourhood), when, just as he entered the basement and looked up, he saw in the moonlight her inanimate form dangling from the roof-tree. Though he knew she was in Britain, the apparition was so realistic and striking. SIGHTS AND SHRINES OF MONTKKAL. 143 that all work upon the house was suspended ; and, sadly enough, when the ship which had been expected arrived, It brought news of her suicide by hani^in^ in the garret of her old home, at the very hour when he had seen the apparition. He became a cynic, wasted and died, while the house, finding no purchaser, remained u sad and forbidding relic. It was of stone, and had a circular wing at each side. In the park, near the upper reservoir, a stone pillar covers McTavish's remains. Atm^ry Girod. Few know that under the cross-road made by Guy and Sherbrooke Streets sleeps a suicide. Yet it is true that Am^ry Girod, a Swiss, who took part as a leader in the rebellion of 1837, was buried there in pursuance of the old custom of interring a suicide under cross- roads. On the collapse of the rebellion, he had been hidden at a house in the country, and hoped to escape. The troops, however, found him, and were surrounding the house. He ran out and attempted to get away by creeping along a stone wall, but was shot — in the leg, I think — while doing so. He then killed himself with his sword, to avoid being hung. They buried him as just stated. THE TRAFALGAR LEGEND. This story, of a lonely hermit of the Mountain, who, through madness of jealousy, had slain both his lady and her lover, is too long to tell here. He haunts a certain old garden-tower in the grounds of " Trafalgar," a residence on the Cote des Neiges Road, immediately w « a If:' .1. lUlBi: : "i iP 'I • y: :■). I'! !!l 144 SIGHTS AND SHUINES OF MONTREAL. above the Seminary wall, where his mysterious footfalls have been heard quite lately. The reader is referred to Canadianay March, 1890, for the full tale. LA PLACE ROVALE. Since the writing of the description of Custom House Square, its name has been changed to " La Place Royale," on petition of the Antiquarian Society, in order to mark the 250th anniversary of the foundation of the city by re-conferring on the locality the name given by Champlain. The writer and two other members of the Society, on the morning of the i8th of May, 1892, baptised the Square with St. Lawrence water, after removing the old signs and confiscating them as trophies, Mr. John S. Shearer stood godfather, the Secretary (Frank Langelier) poured out the water from a glass goblet, and I did my part by pronouncing the words. THE HOTEL DIEU PICTURE. The legend of Ethan Allen's daughter and the paint- ing of St. Joseph, narrated in connection with the Grey Nunnery, should have been attributed to the Hdtel Dieu. It is in the entrance to the cloister chapel of the latter, and is a large painting of the Holy family in an antique gold frame. It was once the altar-piece of the old Hdtel Dieu Church on St. Paul Street, now removed. >i 1 * 111), ill POINTS OF INTEREST. Place d'Armes. Seminary of St. Sulpice. Church of N6tre Dame. (Ascend tower.) Bank of Montreal. Post Office. New York Life Building. (Ascend tower.) City Hall. (Tower.) Chateau de Ramezay. Place Jacques Cartier, with site of Chateau de Vaudreuil, &c. Admiral Nelson's Monument. Court House. Champ de Mars. Bonsecours Market. Honsecours Church. La Friponne. Viger Garden. The Harbor. Island Park. Custom House. La Place Royale. Victoria Bridge. Site of La Salle's residence, St. Paul Street, West cor. St. Peter Street. " " Du L'hut's residences, Notre Dame Street, cor. St. Sulpice, and on Jacques Cartier Square. Site of Bienville's birthplace, St. Paul Street. (See Index.) *• " LaMothe Cadillac's house (Mussen's store, Notre Dame Street.) Montgomery's headquarters in 1775, Notre Dame Street, cor. .St. Peter. Victoria Square, with Statue of Queen Victoria. St. Andrew's Church. Church of the Messiah. St. Patrick's Church. Art Gallery. English Cathedral. St. James' Methodist Church. Natural History Museum. Fraser Institute and Free Library. St. Paul's Church. Dominion Square, with Y. M. C. A. BuiWing, St. Peter's Cathedral, Windsor Hotel, C. P. R. Headquarters, St. George's Episcopal Church, Erskine (Presbyterian) and Dominion Square Methodist. L f 146 POINTS OF INTEREST. K> American Presbyterian Church. Crescent Street Presbyterian Church. Residence of Sir Donald Smith. Residence of Lord Mount Stephen. Sherbrooke Street, with residences. Pine Avenue. Mount Royal Park. Mount Royal Cemetery. Roman Catholic Cemetery. Athletic Club House, C6le des Neiges. Ruins of Capitulation Cottage Cote deS Neiges Road. Priests' Farm, with ancient round towers and College de Montreal. Grey Nunnery. Villa Maria Convent. Amateur Athletic Grounds. Athletic Club House. Church of the Gesu. McGill University — Library, Museum, McDonald Technical School, &c. Notre Dame de Lourdes Church. General Hospital. Victoria Hospital. Hotel Dieu Hospital. Cyclorama, St. Catherine Street, cor. St. Urbain. And the localities hearing Antiquarian Society Tablet Inscriptions. IN THE ENVIRONS. Running the Lachine Rapids. (Take G. T. R. train in the morning or evening (see time table) to meet steamer at Lachine Wharf, and return to town via Rapids. Caughnawaga Indian Village, with French town walls of 1721, reached from Lachine by ferry. Chambly, with Fort Pontchartrain (171 1,) reached by steamer via Sorel and the Richelieu River, or by C. P. R. train. Varennes (miracle chapel and " Calvaire"), Vercheres (old French windmill and legend of heroine Madeleine de Vercheres), and Laprairie are quaint villages, reached by steamer. St. Anne de Bellevue, Pointe Claire and Dorval are watering-places along the head of the Island, reached by G. T, R. and C. P. R. Ureal. RAILWAYS, STEAMBOATS, HOTELS. H7 school, &c. tions. norning or d return to I, reached earner via d French prairie are ing-places The Ottawa River, by Ottawa River Nav. Co.'s steamer, to Carillon or Ottawa, iiicluiding Oka Indian village and Trappist monastery, the Lake of Two Mountains, &c. RAILWAYS, STEAMBOATS, &c. Tn consequence of the changes in railway trains and rates, the reader must be referred to the ticket agents. Besides those at the Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific Stations, the railway ticket offices are situated as follows : Grand Trunk, Delaware & Hudson, 143 St. James street. Central Vermont, 136 St. James street. ' Canadian Pacific, 266 St. James street, cor. Victoria square. The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's offices are at 228 St. Paul street. TkH; office, 128 St. James street. The Ottawa River Navigation Company, 143 St. James street. General Ticket Agency. — J. McConniff, Windsor Hotel. HOTELS. Windsor Hotel, Dominion square St. Lawrence Hall, St. Jaii>es street Balmoral Hotel, Notre Dame street .... Albion Hotel, McGill street Turkish Hath and Hotel Home, St. Monique street Avenue House, McGill College avenue - - - - Waverley House, Lagauchetiere street .... Riendeau Hotel, Jacques Cartier square - - - Hotel Jacques Carlier, Jacques Cartier square - $3.50 to $5.00 per day. 2.50 2.00 1.50 125 1.50 1.50 2.00 1.50 RESTAURANTS. Alexander's, 219 St. James sii Montreal Cafe, 1833 Notre Dame street - - - Walker's, 231 St. James st-eet Welsh & Rough's, 1796 Notre Dame street - - Arcade Cafe, 2336 St. Catherine street - - - - City Cafe, 2236 St. Catherine street - - . . 4.00 3-50 2.00 1.50 2.00 2.50 0,00 2.00 25c. a meal, a la carte. 30c. a meal. 25c. ** 25c. " Vienna Cafe, 6 Donegani street (near Windsor station) - • 40c. CONSULATES. American. — 246 St. James street. German. — 61 St. Sulpice street French. — 22 St. John street. 148 MONTREAL CAB TARIFF. MONTREAL CAB TARIFF. ONE HORSE VEHICLES. From any place to any other, provided the time occupied does not exceed 15 minutes — I or 2 persons, 25 cents ; 3 or 4 persons, 40 cents. From any place to any other, provided the time occupied does not exceed half an hour — i or two persons, 40 cents ; 3 or 4 persons, 60 cents. When the drive exceeds the time limited as aforesaid, hour rates to be charged. BY THE HOUR— ONE HORSE. For the first hour — i or 2 persons, 75 cents ; 3 or 4 persons, $1.00. For every subsequent hour — i or two persons, 60 cents ; 3 or 4 persons, 75 cents. TWO HORSE VEHICLES. From any place to any other, provided the time occupied does not exceed 15 minutes — I or 2 persons, 50 cents ; 3 or 4 persons, 65 cents. From anyplace to any other, provided the time occupied does not exceed half an hour — i or two persona. 65 cents ; 3 or 4 persons, 75 cents. When the drive exceeds the time limited as aforesaid, hour rates to be charged. BY THE HOUR— TWO HORSES. ■\ ' t or 2 persons, $1.00 ; 3 or 4 persons, $1.25. Fractions of hours to be charged pro rata hour rates, but not less than one quarter of an hour shall be charged when the time exceeds the hour. Fifty per cent, to be added to the tariff rates for rides from 12 midnight to 4 a.m. The tariff by the -hour shall apply to all rides extending beyond the city limits where the engagement is made in the city. BAGGAGE- — For each trunk or box carried in any vehicle, 10 cents ; but so charge »ttall be aaade for travelling bags, valises, boxes or parcels which passengers can carry in the hand. i not exceed i not exceed ents. rates to be $i.oo. r 4 persons, ; not exceed not exceed nts. rates to be t less than le hour. 2 midnight id the city lo cents ; or parcels ^ STREET CARS. 1 49 • STREET CARS. (For Routes consult Map.) ST. LAWRENCE, BLEURY AND ST. CATHERINE STREET LINE— RED LIGHT. First through car leaves Mile End at 6.i8 a.m , and West end of St. Catherine street at 7.05 a.m. The last through car leaves West end of St. Catherine street at 10.05 p.m., and from Mile End at 10.09 P-™* STRAIGHT ST. CATHERINE STREET LINE— GREEN LIGHT. First car leaves Hochelaga Depot at 5.52 a.m., and West end of St. Catherine street at 6.37 a.m. Last through car leaves Hochelaga at 10.05 p.m., and West end of St. Catherine street at 10.47 p.m. NOTRE DAME STREET LINE-RED LIGHT. First through car leaves Depot at Hochelaga for West End at 5.55 a.m., and first car from St. Henri at 6.00 a.m. Last car leaves St. Henri for Hochelaga at 10.12 p.m. CRAIG AND ST. ANTOINE STREET LINE— MAROON LIGHT. First through car leaves West end of St. Antoine street at 6.08 a.m., and last at 10.10 p.m. The first through car from the Hochelaga Depot at 6.10 a.m., and the last at 10.10 p.m. The last car from St. Antoine West, for Cott6 street only, leaves at 10.55 P*™* POINT ST. CHARLES LINE— GREEN LIGHT. First car leaves corner Centre and Napoleon Road for Post Office at 6.00 a.m., and last car at 10.00 p.m., and from corner Wellington and Napoleon Road at 6.10 a.m., and last at 10.10 p.m. First car leaves Post Ofifice at 6.30 a.m., and the last car at 10.30 p.m. m^ 150 INDEX TO MAP. INDEX TO MAP. The Map is divided Into quarter-mile squarcH by linos running North and South and Kast and West. To And a street or publlo building, note the letter and number against It In Index : then And the corresponding letter and number In margin of Map and follow the squares horizontally and vertically from them. The required name will be found in the square of intersection. Thus :--McGill Btreet, Q 90, will be found in the square horizontally opposite Q and vertically in line with SO. Abbott Street J 25 Adeline Street O 2i» Admiral Hood E 86 Agnes Street K 24 Albert Avenue N 27 Albert Lane (St. Antoino Ward) O 28 Albert Lane (St. Mary's Ward) Q 36 Albert Street M 26, O 2« Albert Street, East R 37 Albina Street N .S5 Albina Street (Mile End) J 87 Alexander Place O 32 Allard Street Q 36 Alma Avenue I 38 Amherst Street Q35, 36, L .SS Amity Street P 89 Anderson Street P 82 Ann Street Q 29 Annie Street K 25 Aqueduct Street 28, N 29 Arcade Street M 34 Archambault Lane S 38 Archibald Street K 20 Argyle Avenue N 29 Argyle Avenue(Cote St Antolne) H 27 Arraud Street K 27 Atwater Avenue N 24, L 26 AylmerStreet N 32 Aylwin Street Q 43 Bagg Avenue L 34 Bagg, see Prince Arthur Street M .S3 Bttfle Street M 28 Balmoral Street O 32 Bannockburn Avenue M 27 Barclay Street R 35 BarracK, now BerrI It .S3 Barre Street O 28 Basin Street O 27, P S Beaublen Avenue I 37 Beauohamp Avenue P 32 Beaudry Street Q 35 Beaufort Avenue R 41 Beaver Hall Hill O 31 Beaver Hall Square O 31 Belanger Avenue I 86 Belmont Avenue I 25, O 20, F 87 Belmont Street O 81 Meki'll Street H 27 Bernard Avenue O 86 Heresford Street P 28 Berrnrd Lane O .S6 Herri Avenue P .S4 Berrl Lane... Q 84 Herri Street O 85 Herri (late Hnrrack) R 83 Herthelet Street N 83 Bethune Street J 24 Hlshop Avenue N 28 HlHhopLane R 85 niwliop Street M 29 BlHHon Street O 29 Hlanclinrd Lane... O 30 Hleiiry Street O 32 H')IU'au Street I 22 Hloomfleld Avenue H 35 Bonaparte Street R 26 Bonsecours Street K 88 Boiidreau Street K 28 Boulevard G 27 H ourbonnll>re Street U 48 BourgeolH Street Q 25 Hour^et Street , L 24 Hourgoin Avenue t...O 33 Hourret Street N 42 Boyer Street P 34 Hoyer Street (Cote St. Louis) K 38 Brant Land ...S 87 Brennan Street Q 29 Brewster Street L 25 Brlen Place P 36 Britannia Street S 27 Brock Street , R 85 Hrodie Street J 24 Bronsdon Lane P 33 Brown Street L 25 Bruche8l«treet... O 29 Hrunet Street O 34 Brunswick Street O 81 Buckingham Avenue M 29 Burnett Street Q 87 Burgess, see Bourgeois Street Bumside Place N 31 Busby Street P 30 and South 1(1 mimlier ninrgin of e I'equlred 3U, will be 136 a 2«, F 27 O 31 H87 86 P28 O 36 P 34 34 35 ..R33 -N 32 ..J 24 ..N 28 ..R85 .M29 -O 29 -O 80 ..O 32 .1 22 -H 35 .R26 -K 88 -K 23 .0 27 -U 13 .Q25 .L24 .0 33 .N42 .P34 .K38 .S87 -Q 29 .L25 .P36 .S27 .R35 ..7 24 .P33 -L 25 O 29 O 34 .0 81 M29 Q37 N'si .P30 INDEX TO MAP. 151 iU 37, M C«dl«'iix Rtri^et K36, M CnlllenrH Street Q C'ani|»l"'ll Htret't 1 Ciiiiipeau Strui't Q Canal Htm't P CiuinliiKHtrect N Capital strt'«t Q Carlton Uoiul M Corrlore Strei't K 37, J CnsKmin Avenue I Cathcart Htrcet N Cathedral Htrect O (,'edar Avenue K Centre Street O Cenit Street K ChaboliIeK S«inare P Clmlxdllez Mtieet P ChnKouanilKon Street Q Chanibly Avenue P Chunihiy Street Q Chanibord Street M Champ de MarH Champ de MarH Street Champluln Street Q3' Charhonneau Street M Charlotte Street P Charron Street Q Chatham Street N ChauHNe Street O Chenne vUle Street I Cherrler S Frontenac Lnno 8 W Frontenae Street P 4t) Frotlilnghniii Avenue L 31 Fulford Street M 37 Fulluni I^ino Q 8!» Fullum Street U 39 Fulton Street .1 33 Q Oaln street P 88 Oalo Avenue Q 41 Gait Street K 3i) Qareau Street K 33 Oaspe Avenue I US Oauthier Street O 89 German Street O 34 Gilford Street K 88, L 39 Gladstone Avenue K 37 Glen Avenue I 34 Gosford Street Q 38 Gough Street P 33 Grand Trunk Street.... P 36 Grant Lane S 88 Grant Street W 34 Gravel Lane Q 39 Greene Avenue K 36 Greuier Street O 43 Grey Nun Street Q ;W Grothe Street 84 Groulx Lane O 28 Gullbault Street M 84 Gulmond Street K 34 GuBtave Street, now Adam Tr44 Guy Avenue O 38 Guy Street N 38 U Hadley Street ! J 30 Hallowell Street.: L 35 Hanover Street O 31 Harbour Street R 39 Harmony Street P 89 Harrison Street M 24 Hay Market Squaie ...P 39 Hermlne Street P 81 Htbernla Road P 34 High Street J 27 Hillside Avenue J 35 Hochelaga Street O 42 Hogan Avenue Q 40 Hoiton Avenue 1 88 Hood Street P 39 Hospital Street Q 81 Home Street o 86 Hudon Street T 41 Hughes Lane Q 89 Hunter Straet O 26 Hutchison Street M 83 I Iberville Street P 40 Imperial Avenue O 39 Inspector Street O 80 Irving Street J " Island Street Jaeques Cartier Square R 83 Jaeq lies Cnrtler Street Q 8S Jsmes Lane Q 39 Jean Stn'et, no'./ Rachel L 85 Jeanne d'\rc Avenue S 44 »'Ue8treet O 88 Joaehim Lane 8 88 JohnN Street 8 88 Jollette Street Q 48 Joly Street O 84 JoBcphnt Street Q 86 Jonepnme Street O 88 JuMlee Avenue N 38 Jurors Street P 81 Kensington .wenue I 36 Kent Street R 87 KingStree; Q 80 Klnnoul Street H 37 Knox Street P 34 Lubelle Street P Label le St rcet (Cote St. Louis). J Labergo Lane Q Lacrolx Street R Lafayette Avenue P Lafontaine Street Q 87, R Lagauchetlere Lane Q Lagauchetlere Street O 81, K Lafemmerais Street J L'Allemand Avenue N Langevh; Street K Lansdowne Avenue H Larln Avenue N Larlvlere Street O 87, P 37, P 88, Q Latour Street O Laurencelles Lane N Lauretta I Laval Avenue M Leber Street R Leclalrc Avenue N Lecoura Avenue, now Letourneux IT Leduc Lane O Le Maire Street K Lcmoino Street Q Leo XIIL Place O Leroux Lane N Leroux Street N Le Roy er (East Ward) R Le Rover (Centre Ward) Q Levis Street M Lewis Street J Lincoln Avenue L Lionals Street L Llsgar Street L Little Manufacturers Street O Little St. Antoine Street P Liverpool Street P Lock Lane O Logan Street Longueail Ferry Lane. 84 89 88 84 8fi 89 88 8S 33 36 34 35 37 89 80 27 87 85 35 37 44 88 24 81 84 27 27 88 83 35 24 29 86 35 26 80 24 27 87 88 INDEX TO MAP. 153 liongueull liiino FA) Lornn Avenue M !ti Lorne CrtHirent M 9i LouU HypollK* Htrrnt U M tower lAchlnv Koad O 31 luiffnan Ntreet '» M Macfrreffor Htreet K 39 Mftckny Htroft M 2lt MwlUon Avi>nun H !M Magdalen Htnwt U 35 Mamilre Htreet I 87 Maiaonneiive Avonue K 30 Maltonneuve Htrect u 96 Mancu Htrcct N *» Mansllcld 8tr«(>t N H(> ManufarturcrH Street N 35 Maple Avenue O 39 Mftple A vcniiu (I't. St. Charlea) P 35 Maple Street N M, K :W Maria Street L 34 Marianna Htrect Q .M Marie Anne Street L. :W Marie Jtmeph Street Q 85 Marie LouiHe Avenue O 84 Marlietaiuaro(St. JnniCB) O 86 Marlcet S<|uare (St. Lawrence) P 88 Marlcet Str(>ot L 85 Market Street (Cute St. Paul) . . L 30 MarlborouRh Street Q 41, S 10 Maason Street M 43 Momue Avenue K 88 Mathleu Street P 87 Matilda Avenue H 35 Mayor Street N 83 McCord Street P 38 McOill Street Q 80 McOiU College Avenue N 81 McShane Street R 87 MoTaviHl) Street M 31 Menal Street 8 37 Menard Place Q 8:1 Mentana Street M .17 Merchants Kxchange Court Q 31 Metcalfe Avenue I 36, K 34 Metcalfe Lane O 37 Metcalfe Street N 80 Mignonne Street Q 86, R 38 Min Street .?.....R 38 Mill Street (Cote St. Paul) K 31 Milton Avenue N 33 Milton Street M 33 Milton Street (Cote St. Pierre) I 33 Mltcheson Avenue M 84 MolBon Avenue K 31 MolBon Terrace S 35 Monarque Street S 36 Mondeiet, see Eleanor Street Monet Lane O 38 Montana, see Mentana MontarviUe Avenue H 3J Montcalm Avenue S 89 Montcalm Street Q 36 Montinorenci Street P 3S Montrose Street H 26 Moreau Street Q 43 Morin Street S 38 Morland Street M 38 Morse Street I 33 Moulton Avenue N 34 Mountain Avenue I 37 Mountain Street O 39, M 80 Mount Cliarles Place P flR Mount Royal Avenue L 87 Mount Royal Cemetery Road 1 94 Mount St. Mary Avenue N M Mullarky Arn.iue O 93 Mulllns Street PM Munro Street R .16 Murray Street i P 98 N Napoleon R«Md, now Charlevoix. ...0 34 Napoleon Street M 85 Napoleon Htr(>et (Sto. Cunegonde)....M 3.1 Nasareth Street Q 30 Nelleda Stwet Q 89 NelNon Street (Point St. Charles) R 35 Nelson Street (St. Mary'H WanI) ti 87 NIcolet Street U 44 Nolan Street P «) Nonaneourl Street P 36, u 88 Normnnd Street Q 80 Notru Dame Street K 34, O 3H, Q 83 [U 85, T 41 Notre Dame Street (Cote St. Pierre). .J 33 Notre Dame de Lourdea Avenue P St O'Leary Avenue N 97 Oiler Street 37, P 38 Olivier Avenue J 36 Ontario Avenue L 80 Ontario Street O 84, Q 88, R 41, T 44 Osborne Street 7. N 39 Oscar Street O 88 Ottawa Street P 38 Overdale Avenue N 39 Oxenden Avenue L 88 Palace, sec Lagauchetiero Street Panet Place R 35 Panet Street P 86, L 89 Pantaleon Street M 35 Papineau Road Q 87, L 40 Paplneau Square R 36 Paris Street P 34 Parlzeau Street P 88 Park Avenue L 84, H 36 Parker Street P 86 Parthenols Square 8 37 Parthenais Street P 89 Paterson Avenue Q 87 Paxton Aveuue O 37 Payette Street O 37 Pea Lane P 80 Peel Avenue N 80 Peel Street N 80, M 81 Peel Street (St. Mary's Ward) Q 88 Porrault Lane, see Ste. Agathe Q 83 Perrault Street K 37 Pertblus Street Q 84 Phillips Place O 81 Phillips Square ..N 81 Picard Lane P 84 Plchette Lane O 38 Pie IX. Avenue S 44 Pine Avenue K 80, M 84, N 85 Place d'Armes Q 83 Place d'Armes Hill Q 83 Plateau Street O Si Piatt Street N 88 Plessls Street Q 36 154 INDF.XTO MAP. u. - I I'ly month Urt>\« I'«M«I»' I«||« Tolnt St. ('luirli'n HtWKt , Fort H»r««'t rortriiHti Htri>i*t, now ltiitli>r. Foii|Mirt Hir«'«'t l'rRzi<(i« HiriM't Froroitinliii'Htrvtt ,. I'rU'iir Lunt> Prinrtf Htrttot I'rinco Allxtrt Avenue I*rlne«' Arthur MrvH I'rimiwri ,Htri>«'t I*rov«'Mv'al l4in« I'rovdHt Htruot '.Urn,' .M :u, N oimrry Hond . (, IIIM'H St I t .. (,'ii«)Hn«>l Hir«>«t. nue I. Rt'UputhNtrcrt L HIkiihiuI Stn'ft J KoKthor Btroc't K KIchitnlHon Stn'pf P UI(h<'ll»Mi Avi'niic 8 40, Q ItlohelU'ii Sliei't . M RU'hinoiid Avttnno N Ulf'hiuitnd S<(uai'e \ Hk'liiiu.iKl Htn-i't O 27, P IMclte Str«'»'t K IMviird Street M Riverside Street S RIvetLnru' R RobI) TeiTiiee, Heo St. UdcU Street RobertHon Street M Rnbllllnrd Street 8 Kobm Street O 8B, P Robin Street (Mile End) K lloeky Koud F Rollmul Street O Ropery Street O R08ury Street, now Ash Avenue o RoHeniount Avenue J RouHHeau Street R Ruuvllle Street S Rov Lane P Koy Street M Rozel Street...... P Uu8lil»rook Street P RyUe Street P m a ail :<4 40 iU :)o :fo •,>4 :i8 'Hi 41 'JH W 20 .-HI 27 37 25 41 •M 2H 45 24 27 ."M 41 ai) *5 21 23 24 SanKuinet Avenue I 38 Sangulnet Street P 34, M :« SchoulhouRC Street O 28 Scotlnnd Street, wee Argyle Avenue Seotlund Street, We»t .124 Scaton Street M 39 Seaver Street S 40 SebaHtopol Street Q 26 Second Street Q .S7 Selby Street L 26 I t o 1 NelKneMm NlfiOtt O 16, N 97, NemliiHry Htreel Neyninur Av«nu« Nliarinon street . , Mhuw street Slieiirer Mt reel Kherlirooke Street H '», L 211, O m, P Hliuler str»*et M Hiiiiimnii siretl I. Ninllh Street , RoniervllUi Avenue Simdinii Road HmerH Lane „,. 8r. AdolpliusSfreet. ,...,, . 8te. Anuthe Street- ... Bt. AuneH Lime Ht. Albert siu el, now (^hateaUKiiay Ht. Ale.xundcr street Bt. Alexin Street (Went Ward) Ht. Ale.x|M Sine! (St. Mary'H Ward) St. AlphoUNc street Ht. Alphonne Street (St. Henri) Ht. Ahiiiblo Street St, Amable(ColeS|. l.oull) St. And»rol8e K 22, M Ste. Anielle .,.,, L Ht. Aiidrti Lane , St. Andre Street St. Andrew, now Lnprnlrte O St. Ann street K St. Anioliie Street K 2ft, N St. AllKUMlIn P St. AuKiiNiln street (St. Henri) L St. Hernard SHe('t O St. Uonavrntiiri' Street (Hee SI, .Tninex). S(. Cnth' ' MO street .1 25, N ill, H [T 42, U St. Char , Street N St. ("( unci strcoK Mile Knd) II St. Clmrli's Horroiiiee Street O St. OhtlHtophe I.un<> St. ClirlKfopbe Street St. ClaucU'Slieet St. Colnniliun Street St. Constant Stnet Ste. Cri.lxStieel Ht, Curbliert Street St. iJavId Lano P St. David Place St. DeiilM Lane St. PenlM Street P 84, K St. Dizler Street I, St. l>oinini(|ue Street St. Kdwnnl Street O St. Kilziilietli Lane St. Elizabeth Street St. Klol Street St. Kniery Street ^ Ste. Knillle Street M St. Ktlenne street K St. Ktienne Street (Cote Ht. Louis).... K St. Kugene Street I Ste. Famine Street N St. Kt llx Street Q 28, O St. Ferdinand Street L St. Frnncls, now Jardlns (Pt. St.Cliarle») P St. FranvolH Street R St. Francois Xa vler Street " St. Gabriel Street St. Gabriel Street (Cote St. Pierre).. Ste. Genevieve Street O St. OeorRe Street P St. Germain Lane '..Q .P ;8 1 > M'j V'ij hit H 11 11 a 3ft O iU .OBI 8 IM O IM Iv as (J !« J :w i, M H . l» ..P 35 ..l*!W O 3ft K 35 \, N 38 VtH L34 . O 31 pm) I, H 87 i; 44 N 31 II IW O !1!J N ;wi . I' 'Mi .R art (> 37 o a* K 3i{ M 3.1 .P !») r K i\ 80 !)4 3|- !13 3ft (» 33 U :W !• :W Q 31 O 34 >I 34 K 'n K jr I 37 N 33 O 3» L 33 P 35 R 33 Q31 Q 33 J 38 O 30 P 38 .ti36 INDEX to MAI> 155 Mr. 0«>nnnlnNtr«<>t 'llot'hfflnutt \^'ur(l).U Pi.««TMHiiiiHir«««H(Nt, Hctirli. . J Kt. Ht'len Strrol l^ M(. M«iirv Btrri't't, now Ha (HI. tJHl»rt«'l Wnnl) . . F Sf. Hi'my Hir«'«.t (Mt. Xi.\\'» vv*r«l» g St. HulM'itMiri««t ..u '.M, N ;ui, I HI. Hy|H)llr« I,Mrii> (» »i. Hypolltr NtnM'i..... M iKniK'M Ntr«-«>t It lKnti««'<(*«>t««Ht. I.imiIk) r •lanu>H ^«|iiur« I' .liiinoN Hlii»«t....... ,.,.M W, »' .h'Hii Htrci'i W .Iran ll«|»Hinii hiijiilHie HtrtuH (Ht. H<>nrt> HI. liMoiiH'Stn'i'l M 42, Ht. .It)hii .strtMit Ht. .Frihn'i»Hfrt>»«t (I.'kU' Mt. Pli'lTc) Hf. .JoN«>|i|i, Kflti Notr"' I>»iiic Htri«t St. Juiii>|>h HtHM't (Hot'liilnKii Ward). Hi..J<>stt'phMtri'«'t(!«ll<' Kiiih Hf. ,T(»n'|>h Htnict ((; (Ht. Henri) K Ht. Mwi'k Htrt'ct L St. :Miirtlii Htr«M't N Ht. Mary, m-o Notre Damu btrvct Ht. Mfttfh«'w Htrot't. L Ht. MiiurltH' street P Ht. MIchHi'l l.iiin' P St. Ml<»ia('l Htrtet T St. Michel Streot (Coto fit, I/>u(n) J Hto. Monl<|iie Avonuo O Ste. Monliiue Htr«et o St. Nk'holaHHtieot O Ht. Patrick .s«|Uuro O St, Patrick street o Ht. Paul sirwt O 33, R Paulstrei"t(St. Henri) J Peter Htr. * u if K N !i '.H .1 .1 K -S Ht St St. Phllli* St St. " ♦nil" ;. Henri) ......L Ste. II. K St. Pleri. " .me Q 3«, O St, Pierre Street K Ste, ItadeBonde, see Victoria Sqiinre... St, Roeh Street H Htc. UoseSfieet (^ 35, U Ste. R»me de Lima Street M St. Sacrament Street Q Ste, Soplde Lane P St. Sulplee Street Ste. Thercse street St. Thomas Street St. Urhaln Street P .tt, M St. Vincent Street Q St. Vlatenr Avenue H St. Zee Street.. L Stadacona Street S Stanley Street M 43 }| .^1 3ft !I0 ;«> M 3ft Hfl :IN 31 31 34 33 :ui 33 It 31 ■vi 40 37 :w 33 ;m •x\ m m 3H 3H 3ft to 3H 34 30 33 3s 37 311 :ui 30 41 ;IM 30 ;» 31 37 3»l :m 33 31 33 28 33 37 34 38 80 34 31 31 m :S 38 34 33 m 33 43 3U Hianfon Htrerl ......,.,...t,,,..., Hiarn«*<» Ktrwt ,.,.,,.,......„,,. Mtayner Mrfet , ,.,=,..,., ,,,.,,, Htunrt l«(reet Hiiiniuertdll Avenun. ., HUMtirX StrcK-t . ..........tr— >!.. Hu/.ani;ie.Hli«'»«t .»,.. Hydenlvam Ijine Hytltfiihaiii Htreot TaM«lcv Htrp«l.... Tarit Hull AvcmW Theatre Uinti ,, ThlKtleTerraeo... Torrane*- Street.., Ti. ver Hni'cet ..., Tracv Street Trot tier Hireet.., Tnideaii street... Tupix'r Htif et Tui'UDon Htreet -••••••*>• ••••■•§••■•••• u Union Aventiff N 81 I'lilverHlty Hireot M flS rpper l.nchliie Rotid Vl Upper Ht. ChurlcM llorriiiii^u..^. V M Valloe Street O VrtlllereH Htreet L ValolH Avenue R \a\wlreuU Htreet y Virchen'K Avenue <> VerolM'i-cH Street N 43, <> VermilUcN Htreet o Victor street H \' Id uriii .\ venue H Victoria S(|uar»' P Victoria street N VlKcr (Jiirilens Vl^cr Pliico VlUeneuve Street ... VInet Htrc«'l 31 Visitation street (; VltreHtr»'o( V«»lUgeur>t street ^■1 .51 .•vt 14 38 33 34 31 31 lU i» 30 3« 36 3il 36 w - ... - C5 36; i| VValbrae Place M Water street S WellluKton Square Wellington Street P 28, Q WeHtern Avenue Western Stjuare I. White's Lane 1 WIdow'H Lane R William Street ..O 37, P WlllluniH street N Willie Htreet K Windsor Aveinio t* Windsor Street O Winning Htreet O WlHenian Avenue O Wolfe Htreet ^ Wood Avenue Iv Woo Churoli u W «t. (i»«or«i-'<» S m Ht. .Uinrti th« Ap«wtl* M )V 8t. .lolin rhf Kvaiitfclitt U AU 8t.ju(i«'ii Mar 8t. Luke'» It M St. Martin's M W m. Mary'i 8 41 8t. MatfhiM' 1 tn 81. Hteph(«n't V •» 8t. Thoniaa' It 86 Trinity q 88 MKTHOOUT. Centr« O 33 CoteHt. I»»ul J ai pomlnlnn S Ht. "««iKr'« C*iithe«ir«l o Uu Mt, V|ii«i>ntd>' Paul H m ■VNAOOOrRS. Oi«*ttf and :)uml> IumKumWwMmI). J 37 (trey Sunnvi;' M 9H Hht>lMtfR Con.'t'nt. T 49 Ladli>s' nvnfvolent Institute N 89 Mount Nt. Mary M 9N Naiareth Anylnm ....() 88 Prutfstant House of Refuge U :tt ProvkK-nw (Mllo End) J m Providence (Mt. Catherine Ntr*«*t) P U Providence (8t. Denis 8tre««t) N 8ft Pro\ld( Hull ., oin rmirt Koimn u Xi (.'iiMtoMu* KxftinliilMK WfttohouMi. . tj .'Wi Cualoin lliiUNfl u 81 ('jrrlorNnm o X\ prill lUII u .18 r«ni«lfl I'rUon o :« rr«M(in liaptUM I. .'» Market. Ht. I.uwroiicc I' 88 Market, Vlicor. lattu* g 84 lle«hanlcHnn«tltute P Bt Natural lllttury Miiiutum N HI New York Llfu Hulldltiff OHi FnttOtnce ..P8I Provincial Kxhibltlon Building J 8A Uueen'uMall N 81 Reforinntory l*rlMm P 88 Rink, curllnR, CuUMionlan M 80 ink, Ciirllnn, TliUtU* N 80 Rink, Hkatinv, Cryiul M •» Rink, Hkathiff, Dominion O 81) Kink. Bkatlnif, Victoria S ») Ruyal Innuranotf liullding u 31 Temple Hulldinff P 31 Theatrtt Itoyal P :U Town Hull, Rtc. Cunegonda M 20 Town Hall. 8f. Henri K 34 Victoria Armory N 31 Y. M. 0. A. liullding N 30 RAILWAY STATIONS. llonaventur<>, o. T. Uy ^ ., liiilhou»i<roteMant) K 80 HiM'halaira Ward (l*rut«aant) i 41 Jat'iiuea CartitT Qm Jeaulla Novltlatt S W Mc<»lll Collwae M ' Montreal (ollt'M IC Mount lit. lA)ulii Inatituta U Nortnal Boliool ( ProtiiUnt) .O 81 Plateau A<'«4l«Miiy < Roman ('atholio)..() 88 I'rimi^au'ii (Roman cnthollc) N Haltrtivola Mlaaik(*Mlrf*>t(l>rotoiitant) N 84 Mt. .lean Baptist** «Sill<«Bf(|{. ('.) L 88 Ht. Jttan I)aptl»ti> NtlKxM (proteitant) L 88 Nt. J«Hiepli's(l(. ('. St. Antoioe Ward) 38 St. JoMph'ilR. ('.. lltMhelaga Wardj.T 41 8t. Mary'i College (.losuitH).' ..O fll Victoria (ProtoMtaut) L MISCCLLANCOUS. Rellprlve Park 8 88 C. P. Ry. Freight Yard g 40 O. T. Hy (IwlKlitYard R M Logan'aPark N 87 Mountain Klovator fc 88 HohmarPark R 8ft Htreet Car Stablei, (St. Henri) J 38 street Car StablvH, (Hochulaga WardlB 88 Wat«r Worki llci'^rvolr L ffl Water Worka Itea«rvolr (Hlgh-levol).K 83 ♦ 158 "*• •». //index. • ; 52. Aboriginal Traditions, 2 Algonquins, 2, 3 Agonhunna, 7, 106 American Occupation, 138 Amitertit, Sir Jeffery, 34, 126 Artiolu, ijenedict, 54 Allen, Fanny, 81, 144 'i^nabctaha, no; Death of, 113 Bell, the Great, of Notre Dame ( otos Hourdon), 12, 28 Bullion, Duchesse de, 22, 79 Bonstcours Church, 28, 67 , I ^1 Bank of Montreal, 32 Bonsecours Market, 58 Bourgeoys, Marguerite, 67, 93 Burton, 130 Champlain, Samuel de, 3, ?>, : 23, 50, 104 Commerce, ii, 12 Cadillac, 12, 118 Custom House, 21 Compagnie de Notre Dame Montreal, 105 Compagrfie des Indes, 37 Churches, 33, 60 Callieres, 24, 25, 35 Closse, Lambert, 26, 109 Carmelites, 95 Citadel Hill, 36, 39 Charlevoix, Pere, 36 Canadian Pacific Railway, I2 Canadian Pacific Rail'y Bridge, Chateau de Ramezay,- 37, 53 Chateau de Vaudreuil, 38 Cemeteries, 51 Capitulation Cottage, 52 City Hall, S3 Court House, 55 Christ Church Cathedral, 62 Catalogne, 121 Canal, First, 121, !22 del I 'onquest, 126 "*■— »— ^ 'Clubs, 97, 100 Consulates, 147 Cab Tariff, 148 Detroit, Founder of, 12 Du Luth (Du Lhut), 12, 118 Dauversiere, Le Royer de la^ 22 79. 104 Dollier de Casson, 30 DoUard (Daulac), III D'A'lleboust, 119 De Beaujeu, 125 Demons, 103 Dorchester, 139 De la Come, 139 Du Calvet, 140 Earthquake, the Great, 1 14 Fraser, Simon, 12, 134 Fortifications, 34, 136 Franklin, Benjamin, 54 Fort de la Montagne, 89 Gates of the City, 34, 39, 115, 136 Grand Trunk Railway, 12 Grey Nuns, 80 Gage, 129 V Girod, Amery, 143 Hospitals, 76, 77 Hochelaga, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8 Hurons, 2, 3, 5 Henry, Alex., 12, 133 Harbour, 13, 15 Heavysege, Grave of, 52 Hotel Dieu, 78 Hunt Club, 99 Houses, Old, 140 Hotels, 147 Iroquois, 2 ; Four Burnt, 117 Iroquet, 3 tr mfwm 5 '7 <} I s jj . • ^s > I if r INDEX. 159 Iberville, 120 Irving, Washington, 131 Index to Map, 150, 157 Jacques Cartier, 2, 7, 8, 37, 48, 105 Jacques Cartier visits Hochelaga, 5 Jesuits, 36, 69 Johnson, Sir Wm. and Sir John, 130 Kondiaronk, 122 Lalemant, Peie, 3 La Salle, 12, 117 ; Dwelling, 117 La Mothe Cadillac, 12, 118 Lachine Canal, 14 Laprairie, Battle of, 16 Longueuil Castle, 16, 122 Le her, Jeanne, 94 Le Moyne, 1 19 Longueuil, Baron de, 120 La Prairie, M. de, 121 La V^randrye, 123 La Friponne, 125 Legend of Devil and Wind, 29 Legend of St. Pore's Head, 109 Legend of the Red Cross, 20, 82 Legend of P. Le Maistre's Hand- kerchief, 108 Little River, 20 Legend of Hotel Dieu Picture, 82 Le Maistre, Pere, 108 Levis, 129 Montreal— Site of, 2 Aboriginal Name, 103 Leading Characteristics, ii A Seaport, 12 History of, 13 Population, 13, 17 Foundation of, 21, 107 Earliest Church, 28 In 1666. 134; in 1770, 135 Maisonneuve, Paul de Chomedy de, 23. 25, 31.48, 67, 107, 119 Maisonneuve Statue, 25 Montreal Amateur Athletic Asso- ciation, 97 McTavish Haunted Hous?, 142 Montgomery, Headquarters of, 138 Mount Royal, 3, 6, 7, 9, 44 Mance, Jeanne, 22, 23, 79 Monks, 94 McGill University, 8, 13, 84 Mackenzie, Sir Alex., 12, 133 Molson, Hon. John, 14 Manor House, the First, 25 McGill, Hon. Jas., 37, 85 Montcalm, 38, 39, 123 Monklands, 194 Nuns of the Congregation, 93 Notre Dame de Montreal Church, 12, 26 New Orleans, Founder of, 12, 120 North- West Company, 33, 131 Nelson's Column, 37 North- Westers, 48, 131 N6tre Dame de Victoire, 68 N6tre Dame de Lourdes, 72 Ononchalaronons, 3 Olier, Abbe Jean Jacques, 21, 104 Old St. Gabriel Church, 64 Post Office, 33, 55 Parks, 44 Palace of the Intendants, 124 Population, 13 Pilote, 24, 26 Pillory, 37 Public Buildings, 53 Printer, the First, 54 Prfes-de-Ville, 125 Points of Interest, 145, 146, 147 Recollets Church, 28, 72 Rocky Mountains, Discoverer of, 123 Railways and Steamboats, 147 Restaurants, 147 Seminary of St. Sulpice, 12, 25, 29, 30 Shipping, 13 Steam Navigation, 13 Schools, 89 Societies, 95 Squares, 8, 9, 21, 23— Custom House (La Place Royale), 2C, 144 Victoria, 33 i6o INDEX. La Place d'Armes, 25, 129 Viger, 35 Champ de Mars, 35 Jacques Cartier, 36 Place des J ^suites, 36, II5 Dalhousie, 39 Dominion, 40 St. Louis, 43 Phillips, 44 St. Helen's Island, lo, 50 St. Lawrence River, >:i, 16 St. Peter's Cathedral, 41 St. George's Church, 43 Synagogue, the First, 75 Streets, Naming of the, 115 Sports, 97 Skating Rink, Victoria, 99 Street Cars, 149 Trafalgar Legend, 143 Towers, the Old, 90 Trappists, 94 Theatres, 97, 99 Tutonaguy, io6 Tablets, Historical — Hochelaga, 8 Molson, 14 First Public Square, 20 La Place Royale, 23 Founding of Montreal, 23 Fort of Vi He- Marie, 24 Calli^res, 25 Manor House, the First, 25 First Parish Church, 28 Old Parish Church, 28 Seminary, 30 Notre Dame de Victoire, 68 Recollets Church, 72 Dollier de Casson, 30 Place d'Armes Battle, 31 Second Grant of Land, 32 Fortifications, 33 Beaver Hall, 33 Recollets Gate, 34 Charlevoix, 36 Place des Jesuites, 36 Jacques Cartier, 37 His I^anding- Place, 105 McGill's Residence, 37 Ch&teau de Vaudreuil, 39 La Citadelle, 39 Ch&teau de Ramezay, 54 Old Christ Church, 63 H6tel Dieu, 80 Mance, 80 The Towers, 91 Amherst's Camp, 91 Congregational Nunnery, 94 I.a Salle, II 7 Du Lhut (Du Luth), 118 La Mothe Cadillac, 118 D'Ailleboust, 119 Le Moyne, 119 Iberville, 120 Bienville, 120 Schoolmaster, First, I2I De Catalogne, 12 1 Levis, 123 De Beauieu, 125 Amherst s Camp, 127 Capitulation Cottage, 127 Murray, 127 Closse, no Trudeau, no Dollard, in Johnson, 130 Burton, 130 Gage, 129 Henry, 133 Mackenzie, 133 Fraser, 134 Tecumseh, 134 Montgomery's Headquarters,'l 38 Dorchester, 139 De la Corne, 139 Papineau House, 141 De Lotbiniere House, 141 McCord House, 141 Universities, 84 Vaudreuil, 122, 128 Ville-Marie, 94 Victoria Bridge, 14 Vimont, Pere, ^3, 103 Windsor Hotel and Hall, 42 Wolfe, Last Order of, 130 Y.M.C.A., 41