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 A /APPLIED IfvHGE 
 
 leSJ East Main Ttreet 
 
 Rochester, New York 14609 USA 
 
 (716) 482 - 030O - Phone 
 
 (716) 288- 5989 -Fo« 
 
DEPARTMENT OF AGRICDi^TORE 
 
 Dairy and Cold Storage Bnaeh. 
 
 OTTAWA, CANADA 
 
 COULOMMIEE CPIEESE 
 
 SOME NOTK ON ITS MANUFACTURE 
 
 BY 
 
 JAHET McHAUOHTOH, N.D.D. (GREAT BEITAIH) 
 
 Instructor in Home Dairying 
 Macdonald College. Que. 
 
 
 Published by direction of the Hon. SYDNEY A. FISHER, Minister of Agriculture, Ottjwa, Ont 
 4409—1 
 
 JUNK, lOlO 
 
 BULL1ETIN ISTo. 25 
 Dairy and Cold Stoi-age Series 
 
 :; 1 
 
LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. 
 
 Ottawa, June 27th, 1910. 
 To the TTonourablc, The Ministrr of Agriculture. 
 
 Sir, — I have the hon'Uir to submit for your approval, a short description ..f 
 ' Coulommier Cheese ' with some notes on iU manufacture, which has been prcpuri.l 
 at my request, by Miss Janet McXaughton, Insstructor in Home Dairying at Ma- 
 donahl College. Tn view of the demand for information of this kind, I beg to rri'iii 
 mend that it be printed and distributed an Bulletin No. 25 of the Dairy and (did 
 Storage eericiS. 
 
 I have the honour to be, air. 
 
 Your olicilioiit MTvant, 
 
 J. A. lU'DlUClC, 
 
 CotnniisMioni r. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Canada offers an excellent field for the introduction of a Piniplo and inexpon-ivo 
 process for the manufacture of a cheese, on a small scale, which will be ready to; i;-. 
 in a few days. There is a large and growing demand for cheesse of this class, a ,k- 
 mand that would be enormously increased if the cheese were offered to the publi.' in 
 any quantity. 
 
 There are r any people keeping one or more cows, who could, if possessed of the 
 necessary information, furnish their own tables, at least, with a wholesome and nutri- 
 tious article of diet at slight cost and with very little trouble. This should ajipeal 
 particularly to those who are so situated that supplies of fresh meat are hard to oltain 
 during hot weather. 
 
 There is no better substitute for meat at any time of the year than mild flavoured, 
 well matured cheese, and the cost of cheese, nutritive value considered, is at prc-cnt 
 very much less than the cost of meat. 
 
 That some of the small soft cheese of the French type can be successfully mnnu- 
 factured in Canada, has been amply demon>trated by Miss McNaughton and her assis- 
 tant, Miss Bagnall, at Macdonald roilego. The Coulommier made during the past 
 two years has met with a ready sale and has piven the highest satisfaction. 
 
 Believing that there are many people i.i Canada who would appreciate some infor- 
 mation concerning the process of making Coulommier cheese from such a high author- 
 ity. Miss McNaughton was asked to prepare the material contained in the following 
 pages. 
 
 J. A. RUDDICK. 
 
COULOMMIER JHEESE 
 
 SOME H0TE8 ON ITS ICAHITFACIUKI 
 
 BT 
 
 JANET McNAUGHTON. N.D.D.. (Great Britain) 
 
 Instructor in Home Dairying 
 
 Macdonnld CoJIcgc, Que. 
 
 ^ Tl^^-*^ eheeae has been carried on in France for a great number of 
 
 vears by the thrifty occupiers of ™all farms, and tht- trade in these haa developed till 
 IMS now one of their staple and most profitable industries. Soft cheese are specially 
 adap ed for the manufacture where the supply of milk is limited, because the cheeL are 
 sM^ll, weighing from a few ounces to one or two pound, each. Small quantities of 
 milk can be utilized to advantage in this way, but soft cheese may be manufactured on 
 a large scale also. The output of some of the largest French dairies averages from one 
 to two thousand cheeses per day during the season. The term ' soft cheese ' includes a 
 peat many varieties, differing from each other in name, in method of making, in size 
 in shape, m consistency and in flavour, but resembling each other in being subjected U> 
 little or no pressure during the process of manufacture and being, therefore. «-f a 
 more or less creamy consistency when ripe. 
 
 • j?°,?'*^ °^ manufacture of some of these cheeses, as for instance. Camembert 
 IS difficult, and excellence in the art can only be obtained after much experience while 
 m some cases, success depends to a great extent on special atmospheric and bacterio- 
 logical conditions. On the other hand, some are so simple and so easy to manipulate 
 that their manufacture can be undertaken with fair prospect of success, even by the 
 novK -v,ese making. Coulommier cheese, called after the district in France 
 ■ fly made, belongs to the latter class. It is one of the simplest to make 
 •«, as well as one of the daintiest and most delicious to eat, and at the 
 of the most profitable. It is a flat, round cheese, five and a half inches 
 and from one to one and a half inches thick, and weighing from twelve 
 to sixteen ounces. It is creamy white in colour. Artificial colouring is seldom added 
 though a few drops is considered an improvement by some makers. In consistency it 
 resembles cream cheese, but it is not so rich in flavour. It may be eaten fresh at the 
 pnd of three or four days from the beginning of making, but many people prefer it 
 one or more weeks old. If kept over a week it will be more or less mouldy on the 
 outside, the curd will be more mellow and the cheesy flavour much stronger. If it 
 can be kept in a sufficiently moist atmosphere to keep it from drying up for six or 
 seven weeks, it will begin to liquefy through bacterial agency and certain connoisseurs 
 '•onsider them most delicious at this stage. The majority of people, however, prefer 
 them in the earlier stages. 
 
 Beasoni for Enconraging the Making of Coulommier Cheese in Canada. 
 
 1. It is profitable. There is a good return for both milk and labour and the 
 return stands well compared with other methods of disposing of milk and milk nro- 
 ducts as the following table will show :— 
 
 whe 
 of 
 I sam 
 in ui 
 
 ii 
 
 if 
 
A i 
 
 tills i: i^ 
 
 One irallon milk, retnil iivi>rnit<' price, rift ft>nt«. 
 
 On«> frallon milk. wIihIi'^hU' iivcriipri' pricr. -JH) pi'iit». 
 
 One frallon milk. yiiiilinK l-ll>. <>f Imtftr (n jtfn;>ri)ii« «":timntc), 12 cMit*. 
 
 One irulloii milk, yielilinii 1 ihhiikI <>f ('hcili'nr cIhm'!*** (retail prife). IH .(it. 
 
 One Kullon milk, yieldinf; 2 II). ('riiili>iiiiniiT i'li<>4-sc (I.'m*. eiich). 30 cen « 
 
 2. Thi'D- is a wiN-cdy n'tiirii. The «liiecc are reud.v for market within a wi .,i 
 mukinfr ami thii*. while xaviiiK •'toraKe ronni, eiiahle^ tin- maker to get the heneiii ' 
 hi* proHts nt nnee. 
 
 3. No exiienxive a|i|ilianfi'H or e<|uipiii< at are ni-ce-sary. The initial outhi\ i. 
 Kmall where the ehecM-makinK i'* beKini on u xnnill tteule, uti niomt of the appliiim-r- 
 re(|iiire<l are already in uw in the uverajie home, nt leant thoce already in the Ihmu. 
 can be iniprovi»<e<l to do duty, if lun-t] l>e. till exiK'rienee Manetiom* tl:: ex|)eiwe of Imv 
 infr new appliuneiw npceially for the eheei'e. The only thinfr* really ueee^^itry t.p ii;; 
 are the tin moulds and they are only n matter of gome thirty-five eenta ea<h. 
 
 4. The proec8-< of making in not eomplieute.l or diifieult to understand. A- i,l 
 ready stated, this i.s one of the simple-* <'hiH's{M to make. The ehecse is soon rip«' am 
 should imy nii^takf have Ihi-u nuide in Uie priH-ei's of manufacture, it i» soon found nm, 
 and can he reetiti<-d in the next batch, and the loss would be small, as only a few shoiilil 
 be made by the beginner at a time. 
 
 .5. Demanil. There is n <•< nsiderable demand for sni dl cheeses. Cheese is on. 
 of our cheapest and most nutritious articles of diet and a goo<l deal of it is :na Ir in 
 this country. One cannot but nvret tlntt so much is exported while such a relutiv(!> 
 small amount of thi.~ wholesome and o-onoinical food is used at home. There sicin- 
 reason to believe that if cbccse wen- put up in attractive packages of convenient »izo. 
 it would app«'al more to the iste and requirements of the averafie household. In 
 proof of this, one hiw but to consider the popularity of Imperial Cheese, Cream Cbie-p. 
 Netifchatel and Cnmembert. Wc import cream cheese and Neufcbatel from the Unite! 
 States, while Camcmlwrt comes from France. Coulommier d'les not lend itself vcn 
 well to transportation, because of its perishable nature. 
 
 The question naturally ari.«es, why should these varieties which cost so much mute 
 than the native product, not be manufactured at home and the money retainnj In 
 this country ? By all means, let us make the expensive and most profitable cheese first 
 and then if it eof •■s to a matter of importing less, import a cheaper variety. Cuimm- 
 bert. as we have already seen, is one of the most difficult of the small cheese to turn 
 out in first-elass shaiH>, but why should we not bcjrin with a simple one like C->Mloiniriiir 
 and make our experience with it a steppiiiR stone to more ambitious efforts. 
 
 Further, we have already proved that the demand for Coulommier can be creatil. 
 It has been made and sold at Macdonald College during the past two years and if i* 
 still steadily lising in popular favour. It seems reasonable, therefore, to suppose that. 
 given a first rate article, its intro<luction would create a demand in other distri't- 
 abo. Of course, the beginnings must be on a very small scale. Ii takes ♦ime to jret 
 it before the public and to get a good market. 
 
 Accommodation. 
 
 Any <lcnn room with good ventilation and where a fairly even temperature can 
 be maintained will do to make the cheese in. The cleanliness, however, is vcrv im- 
 portant. Perhaps a clean, airy cellar is be.st of all. because there a fairly even teni|iira- 
 turc can he maintained and it is cool in sunmier. It must, however, be free from 
 dust and smells, as chci -c, like all milk products, is very easily tainted and verv rcadii.v 
 absorbs surrounding odours. The best room temperature is from 60° F. to 0.">° F. 
 If the room gets overheated, the chee-e is apt to drain too quickly, there is loss c.i tat 
 and a hard dry cheese is tiu' result. If. on tlic other hand, the room is too cold, thf 
 cheese does not drain quickly enough and it ma;- develop a bad or bitter flavour. 
 
I. DmiiiiiiK ta)i|e. 
 
 Kijf. I. 
 
 in.l.i an.l o,i|). i». Straw i.mt. 10. Kim/mlW 11 1 ' " * '*'*'''''''- '''»'"«■ »• Tl..r,„i,. 
 
 J-ji^lantf curd into moulrts. 
 
 ( 
 
 t-i' 
 
Fig. III. 
 Mcthixl (if 'riirtiinir ''liwKf. 
 
 
 I 
 
 I »l f 
 
 Fig. IV 
 
 1. The finished chee«>. 2. Showing un. cut through the u..ddl,.. 3. Gr,x.ved draining table. 
 
Milk. 
 
 Sweet ""'J elean new milk of ^oo.l quality n,Hko« the best chee.e. All the fat or 
 .ream «ho« ,1 be lei t .n the milk. Skim milk makes a very hard, dry unpalatable 
 cheese. Acid milk also makes a har.><h. dry <he...o. unpalatable 
 
 Sennet. 
 Rennot may be used in either th- extract or tablet form. Where onlv small 
 nunnt, le. are used, the tablets are b.^t. as they are easier to obtain fresh n sma 
 ,ua>mt.e. and keep better. Rather k>. .hould be used than that reeommen.ied in the 
 
 !r'™u I" • "f '" ^^'' ''^'''' " ****** «"«* '« ^«»t«J> «hieh will take from two 
 to three hours to coagulate. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 Pure dairy salt with a fine grain which will dissolve readily, should be used. It 
 may not l>e generally known that salt absorbs surrounding odours almost as readily 
 as milk. It should, therefore, be kept in a pure atmosphere. 
 
 Appliances— Vessels to Hold Milk. 
 
 Wooden tubs with lids are best, but are by no means absolutely indispensable. 
 \\ood IS a poor conductor of heat and we want to maintain an even temperature of 
 the milk after setting, for two reasons. In the first place if the temperature of the 
 milk fflll< much before ladling, the (urd will not drain so well in the mould And in 
 the ?uond i)lace, cream always rises lest on the milk in a falling temperature If we 
 let the temperature fall much during coagulation, we will have a thick layer of cream 
 on the top of the curd. The consequence of this will be that some of the fat will pass 
 off 111 the whey and be lost, while what remains in the curd will not be evenly distri- 
 luterl. but will appear in streaky mivsses throughout the finished cheese. Oak i« the 
 h<t wood, as it is most desirable and, being hard, it is easily cleaned. If tubs are not 
 iniivenient. pails of either tin or enamel may be used instead. 
 
 Draining Table. 
 
 Tlie table on which the cheeses are set to drain should slope slightly and should 
 liiive an outlet at the lower end for carrying off the whey. A pail should be placed 
 uniler the outlet to receive the whey. Wooden tables are often made with a ridge 
 round the edge and covered with galvanized tin, as in fig. 1. This is the most suitable 
 style for the early stages of making where there is a large amount of drainage. 
 
 Another style of table is shown in fig. 4. It i- made of hardwood with grooves 
 leading to an outlet in the centre where the whey drains off into a pail. This table is 
 more suitable for draining the cheese the second day after it is turned. A shelf may 
 he fitted up in the same way. To begin with, however, an ordinary table may be 
 tilted a little at one end. so that the whey will drain to a given corner where it can be 
 oaiipht. or a board may be laid in a sloping fashion on the table and the cheese moulds 
 s(t on that. 
 
 Moulds. 
 
 Moulds for holding the curd are round and made of tin in two pieces to facilitate 
 llic turning of the chee-^e. They are 5\ inches in diameter and .5 inches in height. 
 The lower half is two inches high and the top half or collar is three inches high. They 
 (•o^^t about thirty-five cents each and can be bought from the Canadian Dairy Supply 
 rdMiimny, Youville Square. Montreal. 
 
 Boards and Straw Mats. 
 
 These are required to lay the cheese on. Xo pressure is given to the cheese. 
 The straw mats are placed on the boards underneath the moulds into which the curd 
 
 B i 
 
f 
 
 H 
 
 1 
 
 P 
 
 ■ 
 
 y. ■ 
 
 1 
 
 -in 
 
 !! 
 
 
 e 
 
 is ladled, and the whey drains off through the straw. Each board and mat holds two 
 moulds. The boards are fourtoen by ciglit inches and half an inch in thickness. These 
 can be easily made at home. The straw mats are the same size as the boards and can 
 also be made nt home in spare moments. They are usually made by the peasantry in 
 the North of France of wheat or rye straw very neatly and evenly threaded together. 
 They cost about five cents each. Where, however, time is too scarce to make them and 
 there is difficulty in obtaining them ready made, a double fold of coarse, open linen 
 may be used instead. After using, the mats should be rinsed in cold water, then in 
 warm water and scalded or boiled, and placed, if possible, in the sun to dry. If washe*! 
 carefully, they will Ifist a long time. 
 
 Ladle. 
 
 A ladle is necessary for transferring the curd from the pails to the moulds. This 
 ladle may be of tin or enamel. The edge should be sharp, so that it will make as 
 clean a cut as possible. If it is thick or rough, it will tear the curd and there will 
 be loss of fat. 
 
 Thermometer. 
 
 A reliable floating dairy thermometer is a necessity. They can be got for twenty- 
 five cents each. No uniformity can be obtained by rule of thumb, and a mistake of a 
 few degrees in temperature may make a considerable difference in the character of 
 the cheese. 
 
 Measuring Glass for Rennet. 
 
 When rennet extract is used, it is well to invest in a small drachm glass for mm? 
 uring the rennet. These glasses can be got from any chemist, graded to show the 
 number of drops. They cost twenty-five cents each. 
 
 Paper and Boxes. 
 
 Grease proof parchment paper will be required to wrap the cheese in, if it is to 
 be sent to market. It can be obtained from any dairy supply house. Cardboard boxes 
 can be had from any of the folding box manufacturers and cost from three to five 
 dollars per thousand. 
 
 METHOD OF MAXDrn 
 
 Requirements for two cheese: — 
 One gallon new milk. 
 Fifteen drops rennet extract. 
 One ouTiee of pure dairy salt. 
 
 1. Strain the milk into a clean pail or other suitable vessel. 
 
 2. Get the milk to a temperature of 80° F. 
 
 3. Dilute the rennet with about ten times its bulk of water, in order to !?et it 
 evenly mixed and more easily distributed. Add it to the milk and stir gently to bot- 
 tom of the pail for throe minutes. 
 
 4. Cover the pail with a clean cloth iu order to retain heat. Four folds of 
 butter muslin will (Id nioely. If the temperature of the room is low, it is advisable 
 to set the vessel containiiijj the milk in another containing water two degrees higher 
 in temperature than the milk. If the temperature of the water fjdis below SO' F a 
 little warm water may be added to it. 60 to 05" F. is the best room temperature. 
 
 5. Stir the surface of the milk gently with the end of the thermometer to keep 
 the cream from rising. Do this every ten minutes or so for the first half hour. Do 
 not siir after the milk has begun to coagulate. 
 
ti. Lay the board with the straw mat on it and the two moulda with collars where 
 
 M ThJ'ZtT'^r. r ''-'^^ *«""-«*"- -«! - free from dr a" la" 
 rZ ;.J~ i^^!'''"^ *"•'"';" ''"■"'"•"» "•'" ''^P^"'' t^ « considerable extent 
 
 on the temperature of the room and on the manner in which the curd is la.lled If 
 
 tT^lTlT T\^^'^- ««° f- '^^ --d will take too long to drain Ld may 
 •1 kI. 1. tJT /u ''"''* ^* *"? '''^''' " f^P'^-ature. or if ladled rouRhlv. there 
 will be a loss of fat and the result will he a harsh, dry cheese. If ladled in thin slic^ 
 ,t w,ll dram more quickly than if ladle.I in thick slices. When a nice soft coagE 
 has formed which oupht to be in from two to three hours, take out a lar,re latlleful of 
 (mrd and set ,t aside to form smooth tops for the cheese. Then gently ladle he est 
 of tbo curd into thn moulds i„ thin slices, putting on last of all theVuTf pm thl 
 iadlefnl which was sot nside. [f the tins do not hold all the curd to begin with he 
 remnnuler may bo ad.led as .«con as that in the tins has sunk sufficiently 
 
 7 When the curd has sunk to the lower edge of the collar, which should bo in 
 
 from twenty to th.r y hours, remove the collars gently. ,,h,cc a clean mat and board on 
 
 he to;, of the moulds and turn thorn over. Can, must be exercised in removing the 
 
 fir.t mat. as the curd is apt to adhere to it. It is best to roll it backwar,l« gently like 
 
 a roll of paper. •* <■ j^ hkc 
 
 8. Sprinkle th- top of the curd with good salt, about i-oz. between two cheese. 
 
 0. Wn.sh the draining table. ro,,!a.e the cheese on it and let the cheese drain for 
 anrther twenty-four hours. 
 
 10. .At the end of that time, turn as before and sprinkle the otlier side with a 
 similnr amount of salt. In twonty-fonr hours after this the cheese should be rea.lv 
 ! fu. e.jtmg. ,f they are used fresh, but if not disposed of. the moulds may be removed 
 and tlio ohcose turned dailv. ' 
 
 HP 
 
 sen 
 
 I'toiniket'"'"*'* '" srease-proof pai-ohment paper, pack iu cardboard boxes an.i 
 
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