IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V // 4. signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Laa cartea, planches, tableaux, etc., pauvent dtre fiim^ i dea taux de rMuction diff^rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, ii est film* d partir da i'angle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche ^ droite, et de haut en baa. en prenant le nombre d'Imagea n^cassaira. Lea diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thoda. 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 B NAREATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, AND TRAVELS IN UPPER CANADA, WITH ACCOUNTS OF THE CUSTOMS, CHAEACTEE, AIJD DIALECT OF THE COUNTRY, ALSO EEMAEKS ON EMI6BATI0N, IGEICULTI^JIE, *c., BY JAMES TAYLOR, CROWLE, LINCOLNSHIRE. PUBLISHED BY JOHN NICHOLSON BOOKSELLER, 48, LOWGATE ; A»0 MAY BE HAD OF AI,I. B OO K SKr-JE n 8. 1818. w. /-■ PBEFACE. In publishing a Narrative of my Voyages and Travels, (which I have undertaken to do, at the request of a num- ber of my most intimate friends,) I have endeavoured to avoid giving a false bias to the minds of its readers. I have also endeavoured to divest my mind from prejudice, and to give a clear and impartial statement of all subjects on which I have treated. Having been upwards of Two Years in the United Canadas, and having devoted the greater part of my leisure time to obtain information ; I have selected from what I have gained, subjects which I have thought would be the most interesting to my friends, and the public in general. Some of my readers will probably find the style I have adopted not exactly in unison ;vith their taste ; let me remind such persons, that a variety of minds require a diversity of subjects, and also different modes of ex- pt-essing the same meaning, (or different styles); under PREFACE. tJiese considerations I trust I shall be pardoned the in- troduction of its style, and the variety of its contents. A new country furnishes subject matter for, and to do it justice, requires the employment of, a pen more pow- erful than that of the individual who now addresses you, and he humbly begs the indulgence of his friends under the circumstance that this is his first attempt before the literary world. In concluding the preface, I beg to tender my warmest thanks to the very numerous and respectable subscribers, for their kind encouragement, which is a flattering tes- timony of the opinion they entertain of my veracity ; which is the principle consideration that entitles me to their notice. J. T. INDEX. Voyage, ^ Quebec .^ Coasts of the River St. Lawrence 13 City of Toronto jq Toronto Markets 04 Fires in Toronto 3q Sleighing Amuflsments 30 College Avenues 3^ Courtesy 3^ Law Practice, Marriages, Deaths, &c. gjj St. James' Cemetary, 00 Churches in Toronto ; 3g Public Building in ditto, ^q Principal Streets in ditto Election of Members of Parliament 4"i Maratime Trade Millerism, /' 44 Customs, Characters, &c ^g Tavern Keepers ^g Dialect, .^ 49 INDEX. Character of the Country, <« Falls of Niagara, 50 Native Birds ,.... «, ^. ...»..».. 01 Fire Fliea ^ g, American Wasp, gg Bull Frogs, Tree Toad !!!!!!!....! 66 Indian Village, q^ Agriculture, .^q Horticulture, «o Cattle, rjy Emigration to Canada, 7g Huron District, 92 Travelling Expenses 93 Table of Distances, Township Offices g^ Taxes, Caution to Emigrants, gg Western Districts, gg Wood Hill Cottage jOg Forests, ,.. ClimatB of Canada, jjg Description of different Districts 122 Accounts given by Settlers, 225 Twilight in Canada, j29 Departure from Canada, 130 t 1 u f( I i i VOYAGE, TBAVELS, dr. VOYAGE. 1 left home, for Hull, on the 10th of April, 184,'3, and arrived there the same day. On the lltli, em- barked on board the ship Queen Victoria, 900 tons burthen, Captain George Cookman, then laying in the Junction Dock, bound for Quebec, Avith goods and passengers. All being in readiness for the voyage, our vessel was hauled through the docks, and anchored a short dis- tance out in the Humber, where we waited to receive our worthy commander. When he came on board, " We weighed anchor— sung onr parting glees, And spread our canvass to the favoring breeze." We had intended, on sailing from Hull, to steer for the coast of Scotland ; but on our nearing Si)urn Point, the wind veered round to an unfavourable quar- ter, and blew very strong; the captain was therefore under the necessity of altering his course aiid steering for the south of England. ^ 2 NAKRATIVE OF A VOVACiK TO, AlHmt nudni^l,,, when cro.,,,i„K BoHton Dec,,, „o ™co„„terc.l a severe hail.s.o™. whid. c.rr^:Z r So "^'^^^^-W have been ,„„eh mor »eri <-u». Soon after thia „e rcaehed Yarmouth Road, v>.ere „. ca,. anchor and hoi.s.ed our Union Jack "> ».c n,„,t head, as a signal that we needed a»,L. "-e fro,„ the .shore, whieh wa,, .uieklj- no.ild " j I'loniptly attended to. ' ' 'I'lie wind was blowing very .strong when we nn *-•"• at Yarmouth, and scores of ve'.,el.s miXbe" Z::: 7- ""' "" ^'"'"" '» "^^ moorin,? he '•" ''" '••'':'>• '" *e moving, „ot thinking it prudem o fe. such a strong norti.-wester. After undergX U necessary repairs, we weighed anchor ; the order to your stations, brave fellows,- being given the mandate was quickly obeyed. It is remarkable with what promptitude and brevity « ders are g,ven, and with what alacrity they are obeyed by the crew. ' havmg had a fa,r wind. About this time the wind ^ddenly changed to the south-east, and showed ev^ prospect of remaining in that quarter; the captain therefore determined to "about ship." and steer for the north coast, whieh course we had not foUowed oTLr 17: "' """ ''«"" ^■'""Sed, "chuck in ou. teeth, and Wowed very '.eavy; the captain there- I I V t: s. S a: si in th se AXD TRAVr-LS IX, VVVKH PANADA. 3 rore thought it advisable again to steer for the south coast of England. April 19~Momintr fine, ten (,'elock, nearing the Isle of Wight. At noon, the sky was eloudv and dark with every appearance of an approaching storm, for which we had barely time to make preparations before It overtook us.-blowing a hurricane,-the rain com- ing down in torrents, for about an hour, after whieh the storm abated and the sky became once more serene. April 20— Towards evening, we came in sight of Start Point, when we had heavy squalls, accompanied with thunder and lightning, at intervals, during the night. * . April 21-Weather very fine: we steered from Start Point with a fair breeze ; and, in the afternooii came in sight of Eddystone Light-house. April 22-.Beating to windward, with a strong breeze, off the coast of Falmouth, we had a fine v-iew of Its rocky cliffs, which appear to bid defiance to the raging elements. In the afternoon we shortened sail, to guard against a storm which threatened us Soon after taking in sail, it began to blow very heavy and continued until the evening, when we came in sight of the Lizard Light. ^ April 23-Off the Land's End, with the wind blow- ing fresh against us. At night the weather changed- the sky was suddenly covered with dark clouds-the sea became a sheet of foam-the thunder growled over ^ NAHRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, our heads, and the forked lightning terifficaUy rent the Z t ,r ""' '""'" '" ="■"» y"^' 'o'vered. the top gallant maat, struek, and every thing madJ snug and seeure in antieipation of the approaching »torm. About midnight, the wind increased to a hur ncane and the vessel being "laid to," drifted a con- siderable distance back into the British Channel On the morning of the 24th the wind abated • and suddenly shifted into a more favourable quarter' ZZTT '"'"' "^ "^"^ '■"»« »-ght„fthe' Wd Lights, and passing the Land's End of old England at daylight, entered the Atlantic Ocean. In the evenmg we had again to make preparations for a s orm; and during the night the wind continued to Dlow heavily against us. April 25-Running under close reefed canvass, the waves increasing to mountains. At noon, the wind s Ul continued to blow with unabated fury, the watery element raging with violent commotion, yet With compass true, the mariner does steer, And braves the storm without apparent fear ; Our bark's our home, on it we must rely, No other refuge near, or succour nigh ; ' Look where we wiU, no shelter is at ha'nd,- On ocean tossed, far from our native land. Wave after wave, like mountains, round u. roll, While fear and horror fills the soiU ; Still we proceed, and o'er those mountains fly, Now in the depths, then soaring to the sky. Yet still we trust tiiat God's protecting hand Will safely guide us to the wish'd for land. AND TRAVELS IX, UPP-R CANADA. 5 April 26— The gale continues ; and the waves swel- ling, with a beam sea, occasions a heavy rolling of the vessel. At midnight, heavy squalls, which split our Jib sail to atoms. In the morning we shipped a heavy sea, which found its way into the galley, smashing our crockery and upsetting every moveable, and making its escape at the opposite side of the vessel, merged into Its own element. April 27-We enjoyed a favourable an-^ pleasant breeze until about eight in the evening, when the atmosphere showed indications of an approaching storm. About midnight the wind increased to a hur! ncane : all hands who had retired were summoned from their berths, the sails were taken in, and the vessel's wild career partly subdued, suffering no other damage than the loss of a second jib sail, which may be justly attributed to our worthy Commander, Cap. tain Cookman, whose conduct and assiduous attention to his duties, entitled him to the implicit obedience of his crew, and the esteem and gratitude of every one on board. April 28-Weather mpre moderate, and having a ft^urable wind, we made more head way; vhfch, after the unpleasant weather we had experienced, was most agreeable to all parties. April 29_The wind blowing fresh, but steadv, we unfur ed part of our top-gallant sails, and made good way. In the evening the wind began to blow heavily,_the thundnr rnll„,i ...uY - . , a2 6 NABBATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, grandeur, accompanied with vivid flashes of lightning which illuminated the swelling surface of the ocean,' and left the ship at intervals in total darkness. The' gale continued to increase during the night, and the «eamen, as well as the vessel, were deluged in water lo witness the vicissitudes seamen have to encounter and the exemplary manner in which they attend to' their mdividual duties and obey their superiors on board, would furnish a bright example for all domestic circles,— mght or day— a storm or calm-deprived of natural rest-seldom is a murmur heard or a frown visible. Who cm witness those truly admirable qualities without feeling a hearty desire for a revival m the marine trade, in order that the merits of those brave fellows might be better rewarded ? Yet, after all their hardships, they are too often " Cast abandoned on the world's wide stage. And doomed in scanty poverty to roam," Without one commisserating smile to shed a ray of sunshine on the dreary winter of their life. April 30— We have a new moon, and a change of wind more favourable for us, and our gallant ship is proudly tossing before her the white surf of the ocean Twelve at noon-we h..ve the gratification to treat our eyes with the sight of a ship, a few miles distant from us. On this expanse of ocean, it is not unusual for a «hip to sail ten or twelve days, without having in sight a single companion. At six in the evening the wind changed and began to blow heavily, accompanied with AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 7 thunder and lightning. The wind in a short time in- • creased to a gale : all hands below were aroused from their slumbers to take in the sails, being at the time in total darkness, except when the broad sheets of lurid flame revealed the awful scene around us. The ves- sel at the time lay top-rail of the leeward bulwark forward under water, and deluges of rain poured down upon her prostrate form. The wind at length abated, and the tempest seemed to have exhausted its fury ; but shortly after it arose again, and threatened us every moment with instant destruction. While in this situation, the following lines were forcibly im- pressed on my mind : — " While the waves are round me breaking, As I pace the deck alone, And mine eyes in vain are seeking Some green leaf to rest upon. What would I not give to wander Where my old companions dwell : Absence makes the heart grow fonder — Isle of beauty, fare the well !" May 1— The morn was ushered in witli a clear and unclouded sky—the sea still— a fair and gentle breeze wafting us over its glassy surface. The sun now rising from it watery bed performs its diurnal revolutions. To behold it in a clear horizon rise from the sea in a morning, and in the evening glide gently down to sleep beneath the briny ocean, has a truly gratifying and almost enchanting effect. 8 NAKnATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, cold "^ 2-Thc Wind continues moderate, but intensely about fifteen hundred miles from the shores of old England, ,vuh nothing in sight worthy of notice, but some sohh.ry gulls that are hovering around us batton ,s effected, aa often furnished matter of conjee ture to the naturalist. The dreary darkness of uLht does not enfrely shelter from our notice other objects worthy of being recorded, the waves being in a sta agitation and under the sable canopy may be seen decorated and studded with gems of phosphoric pie! fire m the foam around us. Well may it be exclaimed :;^the Crear. . ' '"' '"'"' ■"""^"- - '"^ -''^ ftom the 4th to the 7th of May, no particular occurrence deserving of notice. " May 7_The wind was fair for port, and a gentle the first time smce leavmg port, the seamen enjoyed a '"'.; "'"■"?"" »<"" 'he incessant exercise, of their perilous and arduous duties. May 8-Came in very stormy, the ™d bein^ ^isited by several of fh. If ^' '"" '"^^^ m.„ . ^"^ ''^^^^^^ species. Those sea monsters rose rrom the lathomless deep to brelo L AND TBAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA, 9 the etherial atmosphere, then disappeared from our view. In the afternoon we were favoured with a friendly visit by a Scotch bark, called the "Onyx," from Grangemouth, which came near enough to hail us, After exchanging a few trumpet flourishes on longi-' tude, &c., we took our final departure from them. The night passed over with moderate weather. May 9— The wind fair and moderate, but very cold. ^ May 10— -The wind continues moderate, but in- tensely cold. During the day, when nearing the banks of Newfoundland, I observed several of the feathered tribe called Mother Carey's Chickens (the web-footed stormy Petrel), the sight of which is deemed ominous, and portends the approach or con- tinuance of unfavourable weather. Mariners relate a story of their origin ; which, according to tradition, are the spirits of drowned seamen ; and to deprive them of existence, is said to be the foreboder of a series of calamities during the voyage. Those birds appear about the size of an English hen pheasant, and will follow in the wake of a vessel, occasionally floating and flying, a great distance, They seem to have no apprehension of danger from musket shot ; indeed, their lives, on account of their " marine origin, appear to be held sacred by the mariners. In the evening, the horizon being clear with the sun and moon visible, our scientifics had an opportunity of taking lunar observations, of which they eagerly availed themselves. 10 NABRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, I III i,M F May 13-We had a dense fog and the sea ran high, therain pounng down in torrents, which made our Thil' w"' "" '""^^^ ^"^^^^ the day presented nothing but a sombre aspect May 14 15, and 16-The cruel breeze deprived me From the 16th to the 18th, we were completely enveloped .„ a fog, which, when cleared away we had he gratification to find ourselves in a direct c le fe land. Weather very cold, and snow visibly seen lurk- ing on the rocks and mountains. At ten in the morning of the 18th we were losino- ^^ht o Newfoundland, and steering our conr e ":' he Gnlph of St Lawrence, with a stiff breeze, and rather against us. May 19_Nearing the romantic and rugged island of sohtary ight houses. The interior of this island is pnncpally inhabited by savages, of the Bruin* tribe who uihent their possessions from their ancestors,' and have exercised their sovereignty with almost un controllable power for ages. The opposite side of the island is fronted ,rith a barker of steep rocks, which extend along the shore, on the summit of which stands another light-house. Ships that are so unfortunate as to be driven thither * Bear. AND TRAVELS Ix\, UPPER CAXADA. 11 by stress of weather and contrary winds, cannot escape the inevitable destruction that awaits them. The frontier of this infertile island is subject to the Enghsh, and every arrangement is made for rendering assistance and comforting shipwrecked seamen, which reflects great credit on the British nation. May 22-We saw several grampuses sportively playing around us, in the Gulph of St. Lawrence, which were frequently seen to emerge from the trou- bled deeps, spouting and blowing from their inflated nostrils like so many high pressure engines. A few seals also made their appearance here. May 23-We entered the river St. Lawrence with very foggy weather, but a fair breeze : at three o'clock in the afternoon, took on board a French Canadian pilot. May 24— Early in the morning, we passed " Green Island " and saw a bark that had lost a topmast. ^^ eather hazy, wind fair, and a strong breeze • at noon left Brandy Pot Island in our wake. Proceeding further-islands are almost innumerable very mountainous, and covered with snow. Those' islands are principally inhabited by fishermen. We also passed a group called " Pilgrim Islands ;" at four o'clock, was off- St.:Johns ; at five, opposite the island of Orleans. At the north-western extremity of this beautiful island I had a fine view of the Falls of Montmorency; and, in sight of Quebec, at eight o'clock cast anchor at the long-looked-for port after a stormy passage of six weeks. I providentially 1 V 13 NAHBATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, remained on board until morning. The particulars I shall name afterwards, in another page. May 25-.The hour for landing is anticipated with an eagerness which can only be conceived by those who have experienced it. Having landed at Quebec, I took a stroll to its en- virons, to breathe the salubrious air and inhale the sweet odour of the hawthorn tree, which was as refreshing to me, after having been exposed to the war of ekments, as the dew-drops from heaven upon a Inarched land. THE CITY OF QUEBEC. Quebec is partially situated on a lofty eminence • and, at a distance, has the appearance of being a mountainous island, at the foot of which lays several hundreds of vessels, principally of heavy burthen. The buildmgs in general, are covered with tin, which on a dull day has the appearance of snow, and has a very chilling effect. A strongly fortified garrison stands at the lower part of the town, at the side of the river St. Lawrence and IS considered by some to be impregnable. The' upper part of the town, on the brow of the mountain furnishes the advantage of a commanding and exten sive view of the spreading waters of the St. Lawrence and the adjacent country around. if i AND TRAVELS IN, UPrEtt CANADA. 13 The inhabitants arc principally French and Irish,— the middle class are not over tenacious of their integrity Avith strangers in their currency exchanges for sterling money. I would advise those who emigrate to take as little luggage with them as possible, and have it well secured. Old clothes, large boxes, &c., are not worth the car- riage. If you have any provisions left, such as oatmeal potatoes, &c., you may profitably dispose of them at Quebec, at the same time, saving expense of carriage, and not having so many articles to attend to. COASTS OF THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. Along the shores of the river St. Lawrence, white houses, principally only one story in height, arc scat- tered, hundreds of miles, at very short distances from each other ; and the churches, with their spiral tops covered with tin, indicate a division of districts into parishes. A short distance back from the shores of the river in the rear of the dwelling-houses, woody mountains range along the coast. The cultivated part of the country lays over the mountains, but the principal part of the mhabitants are domiciled along the shores of the river; and, during the heat of summer, the situation may be considered healthy and pleasant. « B 11 NAllRATIVE OJ. A VOYAOF, TO, After spcKling a ni^U at Quebec, I set out the <'>llou-,no nijrht, by steam boat, for Montreal: On our way we passed the Queen, steamer, under water, in the nver, which had left Quebec with passengers for Montreal, at eleven o'clock, on the night we arrived Ihe weather being extremely foggy, she came in col- lision with the Sydenham, steamer, and sunk in eighteen feet water, when several emigrants and others where unfortunately drowned. I escaped being one of her passengers by allowing myself to be prevailed "pon by the cai)tain to remain on board the ship all night. We reached Montreal on the 29th, at ten "Clock at night, a distance of one hundred and eighty miles from Quebec. The inhabitants of Montreal are remarkably con- spicuous in their habilim-nts : the dress of the lower order of the French is quite of the Harlequin descrip- tioii : some of their garments display a great variety of colours, which gives them an eccentric and fantastic appearance. At eight in the evening we took our dci.arture from Montreal, by steam boat, for Kingston, on the Ridoau Canal, which lays parallel, a short (hstautefrom the Ottawa, or Grand River, down which the rai)ids descend with such force, as to bid defiance to anx propelling power to make head-way against thein. Previous t„ tlie cutting of the Rideau Canal, which l>as (.f late years l)een effected by Government, princi- i);illy for Uieir accomodation in cases of emergency, AND TRAVELS IN, VVWn ( AXADA. l.j vessels whcro drap;ged up the Grand River a^rainst tlu current, by the united power of about twenty head of oxen. The current is always descending with great rapidity, and the conveyance was formerly attended with diffi- culty and danger, as the rope by which the cattle were attached to the vessels was liable to be snai)ped asun- der, and the vessels hurried back and dashed upon the rocks by the impetuosity of the rapids, thereby endan- germg the lives of the crew and passengers, and total destruction of the vessel. The Ottawa (Grand River), is intersected with breakers or craggy rocks, which project to such extent from the shores on each side of the river, as to leave only a dangerous channel to navigate. The rapids descend dashing and foaming over the rocks with such fearful violence, as to strike the mind with terror, which brought to my recollection the following verses by Moore : — " Faintly as tolls the evening's chime, Our voices keep tune and our oars keep time :* Soon as the woods on shore look dim, Well sing at St. Ann's our parting hymn. How, brothers, row, the stream runs fast, The rapids are near, and daylight's patu. Why should we yet our sails unfurl '.' There is not a breath the blue wave to cml ; But when the wind blows off the shore, O sweetly we'll rest on our weary oar. Blow, breezes, blow, the stream runs fast. The nipids are near, and davlight' piist. 19 NAUUATIVK OF A VOYA0J5 fO, 'i 4Ht»wa's ride— tluH trembling nioon »hnn see us flont o'er thy surges «ooi* Saint of t) tn green isle, lienr our i>rnyers, Oil grunt us Hw.-..t heaven nud fuvouring nirs. Bh)w, hreezuH, hlow, the stream runs fust, The rapids are near, and dayli-^hfs past. When opposite the Ottawa Grand River, wc had a slight explosion on board, which put our machinery a httlc out of order, and occupied the greater part of the day to put it right again. It Avas on the high pressure principle. While the vessel was undergoing repairs, a party of us went on shore, and entered the Ottawa wood, perambulating its wild interior until fe B heard the sound of the bell-a well-known signal for us to return on board the vessel. On leaving the canal, we entered one of the most wonderful places my eyes ever beheld, called Thou- sand Islands,~such a scene of desolation, I never before witnessed. The lakes which surrounded those islands arc for the most part very narrow, and the trees, bordering on the water arc all quite dead, some standing, a^ I others laying in all directions ; indeed the first impression cannot be resisted, that it has the appearance of being part relics of the old Avorld. Further back from the above, trees were full of ver- dure, and their variegated foliage presents quite a pic- turesque appeamnoc, also a pleasing contrast. As we pasKcc. ^:,lcng amongst those innumerable islands, I coulu -,i.; .... f,.;,y them the abode of her- mits— everything -, ai ,nd sile.^ fis death, save the AM) TllAVKLS IN, tri'PKU ( A N.VDA, 17 •li.stunt sounds that faintly echo in the woods nul the tiij)i)ing of the woodpecker, or some lonely birds tiutter- ing amongst the foliage of the trees, startled by our sudden appearance ; and, in the evenings, nothing to be heard ])ut tho melancholy i)laint of the whip-i)oor. will, a description of which I shall give hereafter. On tlie waters of this still and dreary region, wild ducks are rather numerous. Those aquatics are very shy, not being accustomed to the frequent visitation of travellers. Tliey are of a tolerable size— '•And pointed at with musket for a sliot, To funiisli dainties lor the spit and pot." Those islands principally consist of rock and lime- stone ; some o*' the trees are of a very large size, and supported by matter collected in the apertures of the rocks. After quitting this antediluvian scene, we entered a canal, and came up to a village called Bytown, where we passed through nine locks, ascending as it were step by step, at such regular distances from each other as would form convenient strides for the advance of a Colossus. On the 2nd of June, at twelve o'clock at night, T arrived safe at Kingston, being a distance of 199 miles from Montreal, and disembarked in the morning, the rain pouring downheavil)% and continued throughout the day, the weather being piercingly cold, and at eight o'clock at night, I took steam boat for the City of Toronto, where I arrived on Sunday, the 4th of Jime, 1840, after experiencing a comfortless B 2 I'f I : 18 NAKKATIVK OF A VOYAGE TO, passage of 177 miles from Kingston, unci 556 miles from Quebec. THE CITY OF TORONTO. Toronto, formerly York, is pleasantly situated on the margin of a beautiful bay, which extends along the front of the city, in rather a circular direction, to the extent of several miles in length, and about three miles distance from the shore. On this neck of land stands a light-house, near to the western extremity, called Point Gibraltar. In an opposite direction,' at the western extremity of the city, are two fortified garrisons, which stand by the shore, and have a very prominent command of the bay. The population of the City of Toronto is composed of people from almost all nations, but principally from the shores of Ireland, the generality of them conducting their various avocations with very becoming deport- ment. A few hundreds of the coloured tribe consti- tuted part of the last census, which amounted to about 20,000 inhabitants ; the generality of them appear to be a very industrious and sober race, very orderly in their conduct, and their dress on a Sabbath is of a neat and becoming description : many of those people have spent part of their lives in slavery ; and as a proof of - the high estimation in which they hold those in remem- brance who so strenuously advocated the cause to AND TUAVELS IN, UVVEH CANADA. ID procure their liberty, I take as a precedent the anniver- sary of their ever-memorable emancipation, celebrated in Toronto on the first day of August, 1843. Hun- dreds of the coloured class paraded the city on the occasion, with banners breezing in the wind, accom- panied by the band of the First Royals, which was afforded them through the kindness of their Colonel, and gave it a very animated appearance. The barrack guns were also fired during the greater part of the day After parading about for a time, the procession retired to a booth, decorated with banners, where a sumptuous dmner uas provided for them. When the banquet was over, and a few appropriate speeches delivered, the band struck up " God save the Queen," which 'was heartily responded to by the cheers of the assembly. The entire proceedings were conducted in an orderly and praiseworthy manner;— indeed, the general con- duct of those people would put to the blush some who boast of civilization. During the whole time I was a resident in the City of Toronto, I never heard of more than one or two dark deeds having been com- mitted by them, to add a stain to the pages of the public record. The principal streets in the city are George street, King street, and Queen street. George street is generally crowded with carriages and eques- trians—the North mails pass daily; and takes a direc- tion towards Lake Sirv.co, which lays at a distance of about 40 miles North of Toronto, extending its branches hundreds of miles into the heart of the agricultural 20 XAIIRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, ll," ! 'M' districts. Queen-street, extends West, into Dun- das-street, which takes a direction towards Hamilton Dundas, and London : the mail coaches also travel this road daily. A few miles of the road, out of the city, is adorned with a beautiful avenue of trees, and considered to be the best macadamized, and one of the most delightful drives leading from the city. " Sweet birds that breathe the spirit of song, Ami surround heaveu's gate iu melodious^song, Who rise with the earliest beams of day, Your morning tribute of thanks to pay ; You remind us that we should likewise raise The voice of devotion, and song of praise ; There's something about you that points on high, Ye beautiful tenants of earth and sky." But here no caroling of biids to cheer the wanderer's path, no larks sending forth their lovely strains, sing, ing their heavenly songs, no chattering of magjDies, nor linnets warbling notes are heard— all, all is still • except the sound of the AvoodmanV. axe, the jingling of bells,^' and the lowing of beasts grazing in the woods. The estate bounding on each side of this avenue, to a great extent, is the property of the brother of the late Lord Abinger, who resides in a neat rural cottage, near the avenue, a short distance from To- ronto, and which is occupied as the private residence of Its highly-respected owner. by the sound, to discover their movements. ^^W^^ AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 21 King-street takes a direction East, towards Kingston, and is the principal street in the city for fashionable' trade and magnificent buildings, wliich greatly ro- semble those of large towns in England ; they are principally built of brick, and covered with tin or shingle, (a preparation of pine-wood) and greatly re- sembles slate in its appearance. Drapers' shops and stores are fitted out in a superb manner, and may be ranked amongst first-rate, in richness and appearance, with some of the best in the old country. The City of Toronto, with its environs, is a well settled part of the country, as will appear by the fol- lowing statement:— Young,streetToU-bar, nearest to the city, was let, in the year 1843, for the sum of £1,200 per annum; Queen-street Toll-bar, £1,190 per annum; King-street, Toll-bar, £510 per annum; making a total of £2,900. Building ground has increased in value within the last few years, in the City of Toronto and its environs, to a great extent. A great many of the wealthy class of inhabitants, who now sport their cabriolets, and '' span " richly caparisoned, a few years ago, moved in a very humble sphere of life, being of those people who were the fortunate possessors of landed property in favourable situations, which has, within the period of twenty or thirty years increased so much in value, that, in some instances, from a few dollars per acre, to' as many thousand pounds, and have thereby raised themselves (greatly to their credit) from a state of obscurity to a possession of honour and affluence. r 22 NAUllATTVK OF A VOYAGE TO, I During my stay in Toronto, in the year 1844, six acres of land, near to my residence in Young-street, and at the distance of one mile from the City, was sold in building lots, and realized the sum of £2,500. This allotment, and many other six-acre lots in the same street, about the same distance from the city, were purchased, eighteen or twenty years ago, for £75 each. Proprietors of blocks of land extend their frontages to increase the value, by making branch roads from the principle ones leading from the city. There are also other streets which possess equally us valuable local advantages. Sales of building lots are generally effected on credit terms of perhaps eight or ten years, subject to the payment of six per cent. ; and, also, that good and viewly buildings shall be erected thereon. Indeed, very little cash exchanges hands in their customary mode of contract on the transfer of landed property. Young-street has been built now about thirty years, the land, previous to it being laid out for building,' might have been purchased, to a large extent, for Uvo dollars per acre ; but now it cannot be had for less than from five to twelve pounds per foot, frontage on the street, to the distance of one mile in length, accordi" g to the depth from the road and its proximity to the city, which sum can readily be obtained. Some of the streets are not very good ; but the in- habitants of the city are alive to every necessary improvement : the streets they are planking and mac- AND TIIAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 23 udamizing, imi^roving the side walks, and making deep drains, which are strongly arched over with bricks, and rapidly progressing— they run through the centre of the streets, and sufficiently deep to drain the lowest cellars in the city, which must be very conducive to the health of the inhabitants. The numerous improve- ments, in addition to the immense building specula- tions, gives life and activity to the appearance of the City of Toronto. In the remotest parts of the city, they are forming new streets ; and in every direction hundreds of brick and frame buildings are springing up yearly, as if by magic ; and Toronto, at no distant period, bids fair to become the largest and most flourishing city in the united province. To shew the rapid strides they have made in this city, I copy the following interesting passage from the " Globe" newspaper, Toronto, Sept. 10th, 1844:— " In 1826, the population of this city, which was then York, was, according to the census then taken, 1719; and in 1834, eight years afterwards, and the year in which the town was incorporated, the population amounted to 9654 ; and now, in 1844, the population is upwards of 19,000— having more than doubled during the last ten years : so in regard to the assessed property upon which taxes are paid, this year amounts to the large sum of £120,000, having increased during the last few years in proportion of about £12,000 annually : and it must be borne in mind that this 24 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAOli TO, sum is not the real value of the property, but merely its rental value ; so that, supposing the rent of all the property assessed, to pay six per cent, upon its value, the aggregate amount of property assessed would be nearly £2,000,000. In 1834, the net revenue, derivable from every source whatever, appears by the Chamberlain's returns to have been £2,824 lis. 9d. ; this year they will yield £9,832 9s. 6d. In 1837, the year that an alteration was made by the legislature in the mode of assessing real estate, the taxes alone, independently of any other source of reveiiue, amounted to £3,872 15s. 6i; this year they will amount to £5,250, and at the same rate of assessment precisely. TORONTO MARKETS. The old market square is small and incommodious, females who attend this market to dispose of their butter, eggs, fowls, &c., as well as vendors of other commodities, are fully exposed to the inclemency of the weather. A new market is now in progress of building: on the 5th day of September, 1844, the first stone was laid by the Honourable Henry Sherwood Mayor of the City. In the year 1834, the market fees amounted to £156 13s. lid.; in 1844, they had increased to up- wards of £1,000; and it is supposed would be con- AND TRAVKLS IN, UPPKR TAXADA. 25 siderably more if there was sufficient room to accommo- date the farmers. I have frequently noticed the market so crowded, that some people bringing produce from the country, into the town for sale, were obliged to dispose of it out of the market, thereby incur- ring a loss to themselves and depriving the city of that portion of its revenue. Meat shambles here will not bear comparison with those in England ; beef, mutton, &c., may sometimes^ be procured of good quality,-but taking the markets generally, particularly in the heat of summer, it looks very inferior, and has not a tempting appearance. Christmas, 1844, my attention was directed to the shambles ; it being customary at this season, same as in England, for the butchers to ornament their meat with evergreens, flowers, &c. The show of fat meat, both beef and mutton, was equal to any I have seen in Eng- land, on this occasion. The peculiar style in which the Canadians adorn their meat at Christmas appears to excite great attention from the numerous spectators who arc drawn to the market through curiosity. The carcases of the cattle are also decorated with silken flowers, arranged in a variety of ingenious devices ; some of the dead sheep being ornamented with stag's horns and gilded heads, with part of their flesh tat- tooed in a very singular manner. The hogs are also dressed out in a similar style. Nor is the spirited competition confined to the butchers alone. The deal- tables also exhibit their productions in the V( 26 XAKKAirVK op A VOYAOK TO, Market-square, elevated on the summit of long poles. Those articles of their produce are exhibited a few days to please the eye, but are not allowed to be cut up for sale, until the day before Christmas ; when parties are permitted to purchase for the gratification of their appetites. The vegetable market is generally well supplied, and the prices are reasonable. Farmers' wives and daughters, of respectable appearance, frequently enter the market with their neat four-wheeler and pair, loaded with vegetables, which they sometimes dispose' of by giving friendly calls as they enter the city. Fe- males generally attend to this branch of agiicultural produce; indeed, it would be considered a remarkable occurrence if a farmer was seen driving his team to market unaccompanied by a female companion, who, in all weathers, may be found at her post, delivering her commodities, whilst her master is taking his pota- tions of whiskey. Females of tender years are in the habit of driving alone, from considerable distances, to the mai-kets, witli various articles to dispose of, and dispatch their busi- ness with very becoming sedateness and punctuality ; indeed, they manifest a shrewdness and sagacity for their years which is truly astonishing : the loveliest of their sex, who appear in splendid attire, and profusely veiled, will descend from their market carriages, on the road, and throw off the horse's reins at watering places, and occasionally pump water, and perform all ng poles. few days ut up for irties are of their supplied, ives and tly enter nd pair, ! dispose ty. Fe- icultural larkable team to •n, who, jlivering lis pota- driving its, with ir busi- tuality ; Lcity for eliest of rofusely , on the 'atering bim all AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 27 necessary avocations, then re-mount their carriage with great agility, and drive off, pair in hand, with all the courage and skill of a whip of the first masculine celebrity. Canadian farmers, however rich, always bring up their daughters to perform all kinds of domestic em- ployment ; and the practice is so general, that it is noticed only to be admired. It is truly wonderful to observe with what apparent unconcern females in general, undertake the performance of a journey from fifty to seventy miles, to markets in Canada. Some of the elder female stagers are provided with a travelhng whip of an enormous length, called a cow-hide, which when brandished over the heads of the cattle, by the hand of a lady, produces rather a striking effect. Average prices current, from the market inspector's returns, December 10th, 1843 : Potatoes, per sack 4^ gj ^^^*' " load 14s. to 158." ^^^'' " qr Us. to lis. 6d. Peas, „ load gg ^^'^^y " qr 148."to'l5s.' ^^^^ " 14 1b 2s. 9d. Beef, „ do 3g ^""«"' " do .7*3s!6d.' Butter „ lb g^ Ducks „ couple ig, gj ^^"'^' each ' 2s.* 3d. Omomi „ bushel. 5^.3^ fl Idij 28 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGK To, ^"^y^ " ton £2 10s. JStraw „ do. £1 7g June 8, 1844. Wheat, 60 lbs 5^. ^^^ Barley, 48 do 3^^ ^^t«' 34 do ig 3d* ^'e^«' 60 do 28. 6d. Rye, 56 do 4g Bran, 100 do ['^q^' Timothy Seed, 48 do 48, 6d. Oatmeal, per bush i7g gj Flaxseed, 56 1b 33. lod. ^^e^' 100 do £158. 6d. Pork, do. do £i 5, Potatoes, per sack 7^ Hay, „ ton £2 153, ^t^^^^'' " '«" 2s. 6d. to 3s. 9d. Apples, per bushel 2s. to Ss. H^des, „ 100 14s. to 16s, Sheepskins 2s. each. Jflt 5, 1845. Flour, 196 lbs. .., £i 2s. 6d. Wheat, per bushel, 60 lbs 4s. 9d. J^arley, „ 43 lbs 3g^ ^^^«' » 34 lbs Is". 8d. l^eas, „ 60 lbs 2s. 6d. Potatoes, per sack ^^ ^'^y^ » ton £2 15s. Straw, „ do £1 5g Beef, 100 lbs £j Ditto, per lb ^ ^^ Mutton, do ff. Pork, 100 lbs £1 5g' Dried Pork, do £2 Lard, per do ^ij Butter „ do g^' Ducks, per couple 2s 6d* c2* 90 ' * yO XARHATTVK OF A VOYAfiK TO, Spirits, per j^tillon. Whiskey, Port Hope Is. 6d. ^^^^ 3s. 9il. to 4s. Jumaicu Hum, g^, Brantly 4«. to 4s. 6(1. French Brandy lOs. Uin, 4j, Tobacco, per lb lOd. Pine Timber, &ce. (lean Inch Deal, per 1000 feet £1 8r. Inferior Ditto, „ £1 5s. Bricks, (common) per thousand £1 2s. Ditto (best) „ £1 8.S. Any quantity of corn, indeed produce of any de- bcription, generally finds a ready market, on terms of cash payment. I ITRES IN TORONTO. Fires are of frequent occurrence in Toronto, the greater part of the town especially the suburbs being built of wood. One of the most alarming and destruc- tive fires ever remembered in Toronto, broke out on Tuesday morning, 22nd day of August, 1843, which, in less than two hours, consumed upwards of thirty wood houses, destroying the homes of sixty-four fami- lies. Firemen were speedily on the spot, and exerted Iheniselvcs in a most praiscAvorthy manner, but the f!;f AM) TRAVKI.8 IN, UPPER CANADA. 31 flames liad gainctl such an ascendancy, that their pro- Kre88 could only be stopped by pullinK down houHcs apart from the fire, to arrest the further propress of the flames. On the first alarm bcinj^r given by the fire- bells, I hastened to the spot, which was within 300 yards of my residence. There I beheld a most heart- rending spectacle ;— mothers, who had left their fami- lies, to attend to their various duties, were running about in frantic agony, and almost in despair, for their children's safety. Great exertions were made, and no lives were sacrificed. A great number of houses had previously been burned down, since I first entered the city of Toronto. Oct. 25th, 1843, 1 was awoke at midnight from my sleep, by the cry of fire, and the jingling of the alarm bells. I arose, and proceeded to the scene of the con- flagration, which was at the end of the street where I resided. Two large dwelling-houses, with the whole of their furniture, were entirely consumed, together with the contents of a full-stored and extensive timber- yard. The night was still, and the devouring element could not be subdued, till everything within its reach was entirely consumed. The buildings, and other pro- perty destroyed, was near to the border of a shrubbery, separated by a small valley. The night being dark,' the reflection of light upon the foliage of the trees, and the congregated multitude who were assembled to wit- ness the work of destruction, furnished an awful, but one of the most magnificent siglifs, imagination can possibly portray. f 32 XARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, SLEIGHING AMUSEMENTS. In winter, when wheels are rendered useless by the snow storms, and sleigh carriages are in full action, there is such a jingling of bells, as would almost lead the mind to fancy that every star in the firmament had a tongue in motion. I have taken my stand on the side walks of the most public streets in the city of Toronto, when it was good sleigh'ng, and my ears have been greeted by the merry sound of about a thousand bells in motion together. The cattle, as well as the occu- pants of the vehicles, seemed cheered by their invigo- rating sound ; even the oldest hacks go-ahead, and are seemingly as frolicsome as those of first-rate condi- tion ; and a sudden spring, occasioned by a touch of the whip, will sometimes produce very amusing sum-, mersets, leavftg the parties prostrate on a snowy bed ; whilst other upsets have unfortunately been attended with more serious consequences. The rough-shod horses suflfer greatly from over exertion during the winter months ; for, in addition to the rapid speed with Avhich they are driven over the immense lakes of ice, they have often to leap, and drag the sleigh after them, over fissures on the surface. Few winters pass over without several being lost be- tween the ice ; and, sometimes, more melancholy con- sequences have resulted from such dangerous journies. Few horses last through the sleighing season, particu- larly if driven by one possessing the racing spirit of the province— which is carried to an extreme by all par- ■wmm^^m'^ '111 AND TRAVELS IX, UPPER CANADA, 33 liil ties, who thus inflict serious injury on their horses the driver rarely allowing any one to pass him, during a whole day's drive. The female beauty of some cf the Canadians cannot be surpassed : their features are finely formed, and the expression of their countenances quite fascinating. The manners and dress of the higher class of society is of a correspciding character. When taking an airing in their sleigh-cutters, accompanied by their boss,* in their winter costume, over the frozen snow, the set-out is quite attractive. Sleigh-cutters are a simple but elegant carriage, without wheels, embellished with buffalo skins, which hang over the sides, lined with cloth of various dazzling colours, scolloped out, van- dyke shape, and squirrel skins attached to various parts of the robes ; but those who wish to appear the most conspicuous, have their dress and robes composed of American wolves' skins, lined with scarlet and sky- blue, or some other brilliant colours, which gives them quite an eccentric appearance ; yet it seems in unison with the general taste of the new country ; peculiarity appears here in all respects to be an over-ruling passion. They bring dear friends together, From distance far away, Who would seldom see each other, Was it not for the sleigh. Gentlemen's summer dress consists of white or drab ♦ Muster. 34 NAltKATIVK OF A VOYAPxE TO, mixture, being of Canadian manufacture. The cut of their coats is rather peculiar, having no waist, and have the appearance of a tight fit, with the pockets hanging at the lower part of the garment. Ladies' summer dresses have nothing particular in their appearance, being altogether in accordance and in imitation of the English fashions. COLLEGE AVENUES. The most beautiful promenade in the city is the CoUege Avenues. They are the public resort of all classes of the community. The fashionables are in the habit of indulging themselves with a drive through them. The entrance heading from Queen-street to the college is adorned with a well-selected assortment of trees and evergreen shrubs. Workmen are constantly employed to keep the avenues in good condition ; and, in autumn, scarcely a leaf that falls from the trees is suffered to remain on the ground. The plan of the college is on an extensive and splen- did scale, and is calculated to add an important im- provement to the city ; but an improvident division of principles has originated on ecclesiastical endowments, which has occasioned a split amongst the students, and one wing of the college is suffered to go to decay. VXD TKAVKr.S IN, trpPER CANADA. COURTESY. 86 ITicre IS not that homage paid to rank in Canada that there is in England. Some of the inhabitants have imbibed the notion that Canada, like the states of America, ought to be considered a free and independ ent country-that all ought to be on an equality-that no deference should be paid to persons moving in higher circles-that no distinction whatever should be observed among the inhabitants. These notions are inculcated by their intercourse with their neighbours the Yankees, some of whom seem delighted to dis' semmate the seeds of discord amongst the more peace- able inhabitants of the province. In Canada, people are, m many respects, more independent than in the old country; and the generality of them may be con- sidered kings on their own domains, which places them m a more insubordinate position, and may partly account for that want of courtesy and attention, which subjects of other countries consider it a duty, as well as good pohcy, to submit. ': 'J LAW PRACTICE. Some people of the old country fles vul(/as) are diffi- dent at prosecuting their lawful claims to property in Canada, ignorantly entertaining an opinion that there is no law in Canada, or rather that the laws are not rS9lK''i i .36 NAllEATIVB OF A VOYAGE TO, i 3 justice administered w fession who reside so far from the mother country : in this, however, I think they are mistaken. The prac- tice here, as in other countries^ varies according to the principles and dispositions of the parties engaged ; but, generally speaking, the profession seems to be con- ducted in a creditaole manner, and the laws dispense^ with impartial justice ; — but those who embark in the prosecution of their claims, however just they may be, must be prepared to combat their adversaries, as they may perhaps meet with resistance, hoping to exhaust their purse and patience. My advice to such persons is, persevere in the vindication of your rights, and justice will, in the end, triumph over the plots and contrivances of designing men. Some of the most eminent of the profession practice here, both as attor- nies and barristers-at-law : in many instances, the tact, tul int, and eloquence displayed in their pleadings at the bar, is not inferior to what we meet with in the higher law courts of England. MARRIAGES, DEATHS, AND BURIALS. Marriages are solemnized in Canada at any hour of the day ; and the nuptial knot may be happily tied as the homes of the anxious lovers concerned, who may thu be united in the bonds of Hymen at their own fireside. S AND TRAVELS IX, UPPKR CANADA. .37 I attended the funeral of a Scotch Presbyterian, near Toronto, who was consigned to his last earthly home in solemn silence. No clergyman was in attendance- no ceremony was performed, but a death-like silence prevailed, while we were committing liim to his native dust. " Rest body — thou art dead ; The grave ia now thy restiug-pluce. Words o'er thy lifeless corpse Can't breath restore, Nor save thee in eternity ! No ! thy earthly deeds alone Have decreed thy future destiny." I also attended the funeral of one of the coloured inhabitants. The assemblage of brethren at the place of interment appeared respectable and numerous. On the coffin being lowered into the grave, a fervent prayer was offered up by one of the coloured class of the community, after which an extemporary exhortation was devoutly delivered, which closed the mournful scene. In the city, none but the male sex receive invitations, (printed circulars) to attend the funerals of either male' or female. Where tears are shed from heart-felt grief; The church-bell silent as the midnight hour! No solemn sound sent forth the tale to tell, Unless moved by a " golden charm." Certain features of customs aud character are in some degree common in all countries. In Canada h, '"ilr 38 NARRATIVK OF A VOYAGE TO, church-bells arc not tolled to announce the event of a death or burial, unless by special desire. Many customs prevail in Canada, which are in some degree discordant with those of the old country. On the death of a beloved partner, it is customary, amongst the lower orders of people, to keep up a modest degree of merriment during the night, to cheer the bereaved's melancholy and desponding heart and hours. ST. JAMESS CEMETERY. ^^ In addition to the old burial-grounds in the City of Toronto, which are extensive, about 65 acres of land has lately been purchased for a cemetery, (St. James's) which is neatly and substantially enclosed with deal fencing about six feet in height, and is situated North of Toronto, at the distance of one mile from the city; its situation is well selected for the purpose to which it is appropriated ; the ground has a good elevation, and on the North side, adjoining, is a deep ravine, covered with trees, which in autumn is calculated to produce a meditative effect. The ground is laid out in beautiful order,— the principal roads wend their courses in various serpentine directions, and are adorned with a variety of evergreen shrubs, which, on entering, present the appearance of being a place of party pleasure. ent of a in some ry. On amongst t degree reaved's AND TRAVELS IN, UPPKR CANADA. ^d The ground is divided into sections, which are dedi- eated to the saints, each of which is described in nu- merical and alphabetical order. It is said to be in contemplation to erect some neat mausoleums in the cemetery, to be encircled and over- hung with bush, which grows on the side of the ravine M k n If City of of land ames's) th deal North e city; which vation, ravine, ated to id out I their d are ch, on lace of CHURCHES IN THE CITY OF TORONTO. St. James's Cathedral, or English Church ; the Ro- man Catholic Church ; St. Andrew's, or Scotch Church • the Independent's Church ; the Primitive Methodist's Church ; the Presbyterian Church ; the Irvingite's Church; the Seceder's Church; the Baptist's Church • New English, or Trinity Church ; the British Wes' leyan Methodist's Church ; St. George's Church ; Ro- man Catholic Cathedral (now building.) Toronto lies in the home district, and is the capital of the Western province of the United Canadas, It is situated in 43 deg. 33 min. North latitude, and 79 deg. 36 min. West longitute from Greenwich. The coat of arms bears the motto— " Industry, In- telligence. Integrity." The city is divided into wards, and are distinguished by numbers, thus-1, St. David's Ward ; 2, St. Law- 40 NARllATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, rence' Ward ; 3, St. Patrick's Ward ; 4, St. Andfe^v•s Ward : 5, St. George's Ward. PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND OFFICES. College, Hospital, Land Offices, Court House, Luna- tic Asylum, New Jail, Lawyer's Hall, City Weigh House, City Hall, News Room, Police Offices, Upper Canada Central School, Gas House, Firemen's Hall, Toronto Classical and Commercial Academy, Mecha- nics' Institute, Commissarial Office, Post Office, General Stage Office, and the Banks. Itffl '• NAMES OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS IN THE PRECINCTS OF THE CITY. Queen-street, King-street,Young.street, Fj-ont-street, Hospital-street, Richmond-street, Newgate-street, Mar- ket-street, ^Bathurst-street, Portland-street, Brock- street, Peter-street, John-street, Graves-street, York- street, Bay-street, Simco-street, Temperance-street, Jorden-street, Maria-street, Beverley-street, Dunmer- street, Elizabeth-street, Terawley-street, James-street, St. Agnes-street, Pine-street, Shuter-street, March- street, Upper College-street, Victoria-street, Bond- street, Upper George-street, Toronto-street, Church- '•'■^mmm^^iKi AND THAVK^H IN, UPPEK CANADA, 41 street, New-street, George-street, Frederick-street, Ca- roline-street, Princess-street, Ontario-street, Berkley. street, Parliament-street. 11 4 ELECTIONS OF MEMBERS OF PARLIAMENT. At the time I was in Toronto, a general election of Members of Parliament took place, after the arrival of Sir Charles Metcalf, (now Lord Metcalf) Governor of the United Canadas, which I took an opportunity to witness. The proceedings were conducted in a com- parative orderly manner. No banners were exhibited, nor compensation, in any way, allowed to the voters.' The proceedings were distinguished, on the day of election, merely by a muster of people at the polling places. The election of Mayor, Aldermen, or Common Coun- cilmen, is conducted upon a far more spirited system, as to movements. A display of banners and emblems have recently been prohibited at elections of Members of Parliament in the City of Toronto, with a view to avoid that ex- citement which generally prevails on such occasions. MARITIME TRADE. There is not much stir in the shipping trade, on the expansive blue waters of Lake Ontario. D 2 42 XAHnATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, The Steamers which constantly trade to the city of Toronto, are 10 in number, and are named as follows : —The Gore, Eclipse, Admiral, Transit, Oswega, Chief Justice Robinson, Sovereign, City of Toronto, Princess Royal, Queen Victoria. To this little fleet of steamers, and a few others that occasionally touch here from the States of America, may be added some fine schooners, and several fishing boats, which, together, comprise nearly the whole maritime force which make their appearance at the City of Toronto. Some of the steam- vessels are very splendid ones, and of large dimensions ; they are, in some respects,' upon a principle different from those of England. The steersman is stationed at the fore end of the vessel, on the upper deck, where a small cabin is erected, con- taining the helmsman and the wheel, from whence chains and rods are communicated to the stern of the vessel, and attached to the rudder. The piston beams of the engine are exposed in action several feet higher than the upper deck. Above the lower, or chief deck of the vessel is a temporary one, which gives her a top- heavy appearance, and in boisterous weather produces a disagreeable effect. This mode of building is indis- pensable, as the lower parts of the vessel are filled with cord- wood, for fuel, and with merchandize. Passengers on board tliose steamers occupy the upper and lower decks of the vessel, where everything is admirably arranged and conducted for their accom- modation and comfort. i l;;i AND TRAV£r,« IN, UPPER CANADA. 43 The movements and stoppages of tbe vessels are governed by lanr/uaye, communicated to the engineers by the tom/ue of a bell, which, when put in motion, is capable of expressing its meaning in such an iuWUiffiblc manner as to be well understood by the ship's company, officiating in their various departments and capacities' on board the vessel. ij Land, a short distance around the City of Toronto, is of moderate quality—weak and sandy ; not well adapted for agricultural purposes : but the sub-soil is principally clay, of excellent quality, which is a very valuable acquisition to the City of Toronto. the In Toronto, fuel is more costly than in England. Wood is plentiful ; but hard wood, such as beech, maple, &c., can only be obtained at the distance of several miles from the city, and the cost of chopping and land carriage makes it very expensive. Pine wood will not do for family use. Toronto is partly surrounded with pine wood, at the distance of about three to four miles from the city ; but it is con- sumed for steam purposes only. Fire wood is here sold by the cord, which measures 8 feet in length, 4 feet in height, and 4 feet in width, split up and piled, and contains 128 cubic feet. Hard 44 NAUKATIVK Ol A VdVAGK TO, wood is 128. per cord, and pine, per ditto, Ss. A mo- derate-sizcd tavern will consume about 50 cords of wood in twelve months. Winters in Canada are frequently long and severe, consequently that indispensable comfort costs the family about £30 yearly. ! ' i: iii! MILLERISM. Rather a ludicrous circumstance occurred during my stay in Toronto. The old stale lecture about the end of the world was revived by a prophetic evangelist of the name of Miller, who accepted a challenge from an opponent, publicly to discuss the subject, and wonder- ful to relate, they were of different opinions as to the time of its dissolution. A man who had become a proselyte to one of their opiiiions " that the time is at hand," sat up all night " to make ready." And in the morning, when his mind was deeply engaged in his devotions, with closed doors and windows, a milk-man, who was taking his morning round, happened to blow his horn just opposite the house ; which was considered to be a summons from Gabriel to appear at the bar of justice, which iiad such an effect upon his infatuated mind as to throw him into fits, in which state he remained at intervals several days. During the time this fivnaticism was raijing at its mtm^m,i AND TRAVKLS IN, UPPKR CANADA. 46 highest pitch of folly, some people gave away their property, and a few others were driven into a state of phrensy, and eventually became inmates of an asylum- One day, when in conversation with some of the in- habitants of Toronto, on the subject, I enquired their opinions on the matter. A woman, stepping forward, whose abilities seemed to be the most appreciated by the party, replied, "Why there's so many variegated opinions about it, that I can't hardly believe none of them, and that's a fact." CUSTOMS, CHARACTER, AND DIALECT OF THE COUNTRY. Great strictness is observed as to the nilos and regu- lations of Taverns. A general insj lor is appointed ; and the granting and renewal of licences mainly de- pends upon his good or evil report, as to accommo.la- tion, order, and conduct. Inns are conducted in Canada in many respects very different from those in England. People here, in geneial, stand to drink at the bar, and appear to have a gre^i penchant for whiskey ; indeed it is considered a national, wholesome beverage. All other native spirits and wines are deemed more impure. Malt liquor has of late years become of good repute in the province. A spirit of competition has sprung up amongst the brewers, imported from different parts 46 NARRATIVE 01' A VOYAGE TO, V ii< ur of the world, and " Sir John Barleycorn," one of the pnncipals in the trade, is noticed as a very popular candidate for public favour, and is rather freely received by most companies assembled, notwithstanding his peculiar cxeitinff properties of creating great disturb- ances amongst some of his most intimate acquaint- ances and friends. When people call for a glass of spirits, a decanter is set before them, and they help themselves— some more freely, perhaps, than others. A person, a short time ago, who had left his conscience behind him, happened to fill his glass up to the brim, with whiskey, and threw down two-pence— the usual charge for a smaU quantity. The innkeeper returned him one-half, quaintly observing, that he could afford it cheaper by wholesale When a company withdraw from a bar-room, and form themselves into a smoking party, three or four short pipes will serve a numerous assembly. When a pipe is put in full operation, the person takes a quantum of whiffs ; then passes it with the friendly invitation, " Will you take a smoke ?" Thus the pipe is kept upon the move until the company separates. When a party of " Irish Yankees " meet in a bar- room, they seldom sit down ; and every energy is put to the test to attract attention to their follies. They are always in motion, and restless, rather resembling the inmates of a menagerie, and their language almost as unintelligible. Yet, in a bar-room, they may be I AND TRAVKLS IK, VPTER CANADA. 47 truly termed a set of rale liberal-hearted fellows, and their drollery is enough to make a person sweat with laughter. Indeed, in their movements, they greatly resemble the EngUsh " ruff bird," always on the dance and spar. Those people, as well as many others, cul- tivate too great an aptitude to turn everything into the ridiculous; indeed, "blarney" is their principal forte, in which they delight to indulge. I have seen the bar in Taverns so crowded with applicants for drink, as to beggar all description ; when one of the party leads off-orders glasses, and stands the round. " WLich soon is drank— and then another In his turn will treat the other. Thus in time they all get mellow, And each turns out a jovial fellow. But some will clear, and promise jjay, When they drop in another day." At Taverns, when meals are in readiness, a bell is rung to give notice to the party to attend ; and it is an invariable practice in Canada to leave the table sepa- rately, as their appetites become satisfied ; until, per- haps, but one individual is left. During meal-time, which generally occupies but a short space of time, the parties are unusually silent— scarcely a word is spoken ; but their masticating apparatus is continually in full action. Indeed, some of the Canadians indulge in the Yankeefied habit of bolting down their victuals, with all the dispatch that an alligator would swallow a v(iuno- nio-trer 5 i 48 NARRATIVK OF A VOYAGE TO, When on travel, gifts are not looked for by waiters chambermaids, or coachmen. A gift from any one' stamps his character as a green-horn-one with more money than brains. Bravo, Canadians ! John Bull thmks this good, and admires your spirit. 17: 1 ; TAVERN KEEPERS. Canadian Tavern keepers, in some respects, are the most accommodating people in existence. Nothing can exceed their liberality and impartial attention to people on travel. When the winter winds are blowing, and storms are raging with impetuous fury, their hos- pitable roof affords shelter to the way-worn traveUer, where his drooping spirits are cheered by the exhila- rating heat of a roaring wood fire, flaming on the hearth, to give warmth to his frozen limbs. A long bench, standing before it, on which he may rest his wearied and benumbed limbs ; and, at the word of command, a jug of whiskey is placed before him, from which he may help himself with a hearty welcome, at his own cost. When people are on travel, whether they drive up to a Tavern in a waggon or potter's cart, a gig or cur- ricle, with few exceptions, no distinction is made—no partial attention shown. Splendid equipages here ex- cite but little attention or curiosity. Self-love is their main-spring of action, to command attention at the AND TRAVELS IN, UtteR CANADA. 49 bar to the votaries of Bacchus. Here is no breaking of bones over objects, in their haste to curtsy at the door. Gold here is valued as much that flows from plebeian's pouch, as from a silken purse. \l In Canada, we seldom hear a direct answer given When in conversation, if a question is asked, "I guess'' (aYankeo phrase) is generally introduced in their replies And although it may be considered merely a proverbial expression, it has, in sc.:, degree, a tendency to im- press the minds of str^rg. 13 that there is no decision of character in the country. In relating any eventful occurrence, it might be sur- mised that people anticipate their story will be dis- believed, particularly since they generaUy close the last sentence with this very forcible expression-" And that's a fact." Then follows this remarkable exclama- tion, from some of the astounded hearers — "Is it pau-sible ?" Canadians have a peculiar dialect. Their vocabulary IS quite of the new school, and rather difficult to define Their words also take a direction through a different channel from that of the old country. Their nostrils are put m fuU operation to give vent to their utterance which flows with great rapidity, and receives an addi-' tional charm from the majestic manner in which they deliver their sentiments. Indeerl. tb^v Ai.nV... *s^. ; ''I i! il^ I 50 NABRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, if : t ■ ,f I;. I: ! I ( . !( I 'i r|: m words with the rattlmg speed and perspicuity of an alarum clock. To witness a company of people assembled together, one might be led to suppose, from their manner and gestures, that they had something of the greatest im- portance to communicate. Indeed, aping the Yankee is one of their chief studies and delight. And nothing is well received, without it savours a little of the Yan- kee tincture. The dialect of females in general, without reference to rank or station, is quite of the musical order ; and when their conversation is agreeable, their voice and utterance is melody; and is calculated to produce on the mind both astonishment and delight. In transacting business, some of the Yankeefied Canadians will fix their eyes, sparkling with craft and cunning, upon their victim, and with a few grace- ful nods of the head, and hypocritical moves of their hands, endeavour forcibly to insinuate that duplicity's empire is not in the region of their heart. But strangers must be on their guard, since full scope is given to every faculty of the mind to deceive them. Indeed, treachery is in some circles lauded as a merit ; there- fore great discrimination and long experience are requi- site to inspire the mind with any degree of confidence. Canadians, well Yankeefied, Will drop you in, and that's tbeir pride. Then always mind — be inch and yard, Steady in movements — on your guard. 'rm*^vod to --f n,i- '. "*■>"* i'v Oct OUi to &2 NARKATIVl OF A VOYAGE TO, travel great distances on foot ; and if they are over- taken on the road by carriages not over-burdened, it is seldom that the drivers of teams refuse them accom- modation, if respectfully solicited, for the favour of a conveyance, to people of orderly appearance. This admirable spirit seems generally to prevail throughout the upper province of the United Canadas. And it is seldom that a disposition is evinced to extort a cent from the pockets of the parties so agreeably ac- commodated, let the distance be what it may ; and a few glasses of Sir John Barleycorn, or now and then a little of that invaluable beverage called whiskey, affords every satisfaction required as a recompense for the favour. There are also other characteristics equally worthy of notice. There is not, perhaps, a more benevolent people in existence, to the poor broken-down wanderer, in his peregrinations through the country, than the Canadians. They have willing hearts to give people support, when they have the means to bestow. These are traits in their character, which I consider deserve especially to be noticed, as forming laudable features in the national character of the people of Canada. JOURNEY TO THE CELEBRATED FALLS OF NIAGARA. I took steam-boat at Toronto, on the 21st June, AND XBAVEL8 IN, UPPEK CANADA, 58 1843, to cross over Lake Ontario, a distance of 38 mUes from the city. And at noon, I arrived at the town of Niagara, which stands close upon the lake at the entrance of the river, and about fourteen miles below the falls of Niagara. This river falls abruptly mto Lake Ontario, and varies but little in width, until we arrive at Queenstown. At a short distance from the entrance of the river on the Canadian side, lays Fort Georg3, and on thJ opposite side, in the states of America, is Fort Nia- gara, which appear about two miles distance from each other. We stopped a short time at the town of Niagara, and I stepped on shore, but had not time to enter its interior. Niagara is a small town, pleasantly situated on the lake, but has nothing particularly interesting in its appearance. From Niagara to Queenstown, no objects worthy of observation appeared to claim my notice, except the town of Lewistown, on the States side, a short distance back fiom the river. The river Niagara is tolerably wide, and the shores on each side are covered with brushwood. Scarcely a buUding was visible, until we came to Queenstown. As we passed up the river, we saw several dwelling, houses, which appeared of a genteel description, a short distance back on the mountains ; some of them were so snugly ensconced in the bush, that their white chimmes, peeping out above the tops of the trees, -ere alone visible. e 2 * ■'ii if ma ii^ ' Ir ■i .11 64 NAEBATIVK OF A VOYAGE TO, Queenstown is a neat little town, about seven miles to the south-west of the town of Niagara, or in other words, it is exactly half-way to the celebrated falls, whither there is a stage-coach daily. The town is' situated at the base of a beautiful rising ground, called Queenstown Heights, which appear from three hundred to three hundred and fifty feet above the level of the river. On the summit of these heights is u beautiful monumental column, which was erected to the memory of the late General Brock, who was mortally wounded near this spot, Oct. 12th, 1812. He fell covered with wounds and glory, in defending his king and country. The British troops fought like lions, for eight hours after losing their gallant commander. The loss of the British did not exceed two hundred men, while the American army lost above two thousand, also a thou- sand men, who, with their commander, surrendered to the British. The Indian allies were commanded by the celebrated brave chief and warrior, Norton, whose un- daunted bravery animated his followers to deeds of valour, which may be considered as having had a great influence on the events of the day. The landscape, as viewed from Queenstown Heights, is one of the most magnificent views I have seen in Canada. The surrounding district, near the falls, is delightful ; but it is only thinly inhabited. It is rather remarkable that a neighbourhood so delightfully situ- ated, and possessing such local advantages and curi- osities, is not more thickly populated. The vicinity >«(iSi»f;«*a..«^^»»: . AND THAVEL8 IN, UPPEE CANADA. 65 can boast of having its natural hot and cold baths— an extensive museum— and last, though not least, the mighty falls of Niagara. Every foreigner who visits the western continent, and has the smallest pretensions to intellectual curiosity! will not fail to make an excursion to this sublime and deservedly celebrated natural phenomenon of North America. On a stranger first viewing this wonderful scene, he can scarcely think himself perfectly safe. To attempt to give but a simple description of this great phenomenon would be presumptive on my part. Yet I cannot pass over the sight of so grand and awful a work of the Creator in silence. The beginning of this overwhelming current's rush may be distinctly observed more than half a mile up the river Niagara where it is a mile broad, and very deep : it is calcu^ lated by experiment, to have a fifty feet descent in this half-mile. This part of the river, to an inattentive observer, appears passable, and that without danger ; which treacherous appearance has been the cause of many melancholy accidents, as inevitable destruction attends the attempt ; the violence of the current dash- mg to atoms the boat and crew against the huge masses of rock which line the channel of the river. There is another remarkable feature in this river, that before the current arrives at the falls, it becomes per- fectly smooth, to all appearance, as if preparing itself for the encounter. On arriving at the falls, I took up my abode for the I ., K.I 56 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAOE TO, ft !*/:! :il ^|ii i.r night at an Inn, called Clifton House, which is situated near to the falls. It is a commodious and spacious buildmg, m the modem style, with two balconies in the front of the house, supported by twelve piUars. At the back of the Inn is an extensive garden, blooming with vegetation. The garden and adjoining pastures are watered daily with spray from the Talis. The Inn is principally supported by the travellers whom curi- osity attracts to the spot. During the night, the sound of the falls was always in my ears ; and the building was continually in a tremulous motion. The sound of the falls is not, perhaps, quite so deafening as some people might anticipate ; yet it cannot fail to make such an impression as will dwell on the mind for ever. The agitated waters, on theij near approach to the falls, are truly grand. Their foaming appearance, from being so violently dashed against the rocky chan- nel by the rapids, is divided by a little island called Goat's Island, to the verge of the perpendicular preci- pice, of nearly two hundred feet, where this immea- surable mass of water, calculated at one million tons per hour, is instantly poured down, in one unbroken current of white foam, into the unfathomed abyss forming the most noble and sublime cataract in the' world. The curling of the falling columns of water tmted With all the various colours of a rainbow, has a' beautiful and pleasing appearance. Those pristine colours are at intervals eclipsed by the obstruction of spray and foam, ascending from the gulph beneath, AND TBAVELS IN, UPPEB CANADA. 57 occasioned by the beating of the water on the rocks below; the sight of which must leave an everlasting impression on the human mind. The roUing and bounding of this column of water, is accompanied by an incessant roar, which it is asserted has been heard at a distance of from eighteen to twenty miles, when the atmonphere was favourable. This world of waters, continues its irresistible career, rolling its tide triumphantly through Lake Ontario, the River St. Lawrence, and the Gulph of St. Lawrence, into the Atlan- tic Ocean. The chain of lakes, which discharge their surplus waters at the falls, including Ontario, extend over sixteen degrees of longitude in length, and eight and a half degrees latitude in breadth, between their northern and southern points of terminal on ; and the area of country drained by them is computed by Professor Drake, of Louisville, to be 400,000 square miles, and the extent of their surface is estimated at 93,000 square miles. Their respective sizes are as follows :— Superior, 32,000 square miles ; Michigan, 24,400; Huron, 20,400; Ontario, 6,300; Erie' 9,600; St. Clair, 360. Their altitude varies step by step, from Ontario to Superior. Ontario, 232 feet above high water mark ; Erie, 565 ; St. Clair, 571 ; and Superior, 615. Their average depth is' supposei: to be as follows :— Huron and Michigan, 1000 feet ; Superior, 900 ; Ontario, 500 ; Erie, 34 ; and St. Clair, 20. < ". v\ llf 58 NARRATIVK OF A VOYAGE TO, :'{. kf i The fu s of Niagara are distinguished by the names Table Pall and Shoe Fall ; the former is on the State side, and the latter is on the Canadian side of the river. A short distance above the falls I had a distinct view of Navy Island, where the steam boat, Caroline was seized by the royalists of Canada, whUst employed by the rebels, between fort Schlosser on the American shore, and Navy Island, conveying to the latter, troops and stores. Captain Drew was instructed by Colonel M'Nab to prevent her return, in which he did not succeed ; but perceiving her in the channel, moored to the American shore, he determined to attack her, and approached unseen by the crew of the Caroline to within twenty yards, when he was discovered, 'and asked for the countersign, which he not being in pos- session of, stated that when on their deck he would show It. The crew of the Caroline instantly opened a fire ; but Capt. Drew, with his men, boarded her, and in the short space of a ew minutes took possession of her. Those of the ciew who resisted, were either killed or made prisoners ; some, who appeared peace- able citizens, were set at liberty. The unfortunate vessel, owing to the strength and rapidity of the cur rent, which made it abnost impossible to tow her across, was set fire to, and immediately abandoned- when the rapids hurried her swiftly to the edge of thJ great cataract-do^vn which the burning vessel was hurled. The wild and romantic appearance of this .mme-..t^:jtem AND TRAVELS IN, VTPER CANADA, 59 scene acted powerfully on the imagination ; and the Americans strongly asserted, though without truth, that a number of innocent persons had been sacrificed ill the massacre, and precipitated down the tremendous and awful abyss. *♦ Although some writers have absurdly asserted that Indians in their canoes have descended these falls in safety, it is the general opinion of per m i.ng resi- dent in their vicinity, that not even th* c^ffbreiv sorts offish, that happen to be forced dowi. nAa ci aract, ever escape with life ; and what seem, strongly to' corroborate this opinion, are the numerous dead fish daily seen floating in the gulph immediately below. Wild-fowl, too, unmindful of their danger, or floated down whUe they are asleep, find it impossible to escape destruction, if once drawn within the verge of the main cataract. In the year 1827, a few individuals agreed to try an experiment, and for this purpose they pur- chased a large schooner of 140 tons burthen, that had previously, durmg many years, navigated the waters of Lake Erie. This vessel was towed down the river to within half a mile of the Rapids, where it was cut adrift, and left to its fate. The Rapids are caused by numerous ledges of rock, from two to four feet high, extending wholly across the river, over which the water successively pitches for about the distance of one mile, immediately above the main cataract. The vessel got safely over the first ledge, but upon pitch- ing over the second, her masts went by the board, she 60 NAEEATIVE OF A VOYAGB TO, lt| Uf i . ' sprung a leak, and filled with water ; but continued neverchelesB to float, though she changed her position to stern foremost, in which manner she took her last plunge over the main fall, her bowsprit being the last part that was visible of her. She of course never rose more ; but numerous fragments of her timbers and planking were picked up some miles below, in very small pieces,— bruised, torn, and shivered. There were two bears, and some smaller animals, on board of this vessel, when she was cut adrift; but the bear^ seem to have had some unfavourable misgivings of the safety of the voyage, and, therefore, when she sprung a leak, and floated stem foremost, they stepped overboard, and with much difliculty succeeded in swimming ashore, after having be-n carried half-way down towards the main cataract, by the rapidity of the current. No trace of the smaller animals was ever discovered." Table Rock constitutes part of the Shoe Fall. To approach beneath the mountain, I had to descend an immense number of steps, which led me down to the shore of the river, to within a short distance of the Shoe Fall ; and approaching the entrance which opens underneath the fall, the appearance of the cavern, and the sound of the falls, produced an awful sensation on my mind. The cavern is enclosed on one side by the mountain of roocks which project over at the top towards the river, occasioned by the constant action of spray and air at the foot of the rock, to such an extent AND TBAVEL8 IN, UPPER CANADA. 61 as to give it the name of Table Rock. At the inside of the mountain, a rope is securely fixed for persons to lay hold of, as a protection. The opposite side of the onward path, admitting only of a narrow opening mth a slippery descent to the river, is merely closed in by the falling waters, which are continually descending from the rocks above. In penetrating the path under the rock, great care is required, as it may in some parts be considered dangerous. The combined force of spray and air become so powerfully stifling, as to compel the adventurer to turn at almost every step he takes to gasp for breath ; an accidental stagger, occa. sioned by a feeling of suffocation, might plunge him beneath the ponderous weight of the awfol flood. The guide being absent when I entered the cavern I per severed in my onward path, till the resistance of spray and air became so powerful as to render it impossible to advance any further. At six o'clock on the following evening I entered the. City of Toronto, where I retired to rest, and to muse m silence on the events of the day. NATIVE BIRDS. There are no native birds of song in Canada, except the thrush and the robin, which in colour rather resemble those of the old country; but the robin is nearly equal in size to the English blackbird, to whose 62 XABRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, notes there is some resemblance. The provinces have this singular exception, that in reality a sweet songster is scarcely known throughout the colony. The variety of birds observable is far from being great, although some have the most beautiful plumage. The undis- turbed tracts of forest, it might be thought, would have afforded such an extensive cover to the feathered tribes, that the air would have been alive with them. However, it is exactly the reverse ; for the death-like silence of the wilderness would remain often unbroken, were it not for the occasional tapping of the wood- pecker, which may be heard at an incredible distance. There are few birds of this class ; their haunts being, for the most part, in the cultivated districts and skirts of the forest. The various kinds of Canadian birds do not appear to be created for social and harmonious inter- course with each other ; but in the gloomy shades of the forest they fix their abode, and almost in silent solitude, as if from instinct, nature taught them that the sound of their notes might discover their secret places of retreat. ROCK PIGEON. Rock pigeons are sometimes very numerous in Canada. In the spring of the year, myriads of those dove-like visitors may be seen flying in the air. One of those prodigious flights came over Lake Ontario, in ces have songster e variety although e undis- uld have fathered h them. ;ath-like ibroken, ( wood- istance. ) being, d skirts AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 63 a direction for one of the garrisons, which being ob- served by the soldiers, a oannon was loaded with grape- shot, and when the pigeons came within range the contents were discharged amongst them, and made very great slaughter : hundreds of them fell into the lake, and furnished plentiful picking for their pursuers, who puUed off in their boats from the shore to gather them In size and colour, those birds bear a close resemblance to those m England. On their arrival in themtenorofthe country, they separate into flocks, and take up their abode in the trees of the forests- and dunng their few week's residence amongst us, they afforded exceUent diversion for the sportsman. io not 5 inter- ades of 1 silent m that secret ous m f those . One ario, in The pnncpal b.rd belonging to the game tribe, « the pheasant or partridge, which is a bird of a mongrel appearance, resembling both these English b:rds m p umage and habits ; some are less, being of the sue the smaU hen pheasant, with a fine spoL buhe; . •'• " ""^ ''"I'''* ^''^' fr«q»»«ng low and si; "'"' ''''""'"' """^ " '""^^ ''PP'»^<='>^'' A bird, called Whip-poor-will, is called the Cana- d.an cuckoo. It receives its name from the very dis- hnct manner in which it pronounces the word's. Those b.rds smg their plaintive notes during the greater part of the night. 64 - ! NABBATIVB OF A VOYAGE TO, BOB WHITE. A bird caUed Bob White, of the quail species, re- sembling much the British partridge in habits and plumage. It distinguishes itself in Canada by its peculiar knowledge of the changes in the elementary system. This rare bird is deemed ominous, and may be heard to call "bob-white," as distinctly as the words could be pronounced by a human being. When its voice is heard, it is observed as a sure precursor of rain. ,1' i u- FIRE FLIES. Insects, called fire flies, are numerous in some parts of Canada. Myriads of those little brilKant phosphoric insects may be seen in the summer evenings, fluttering about in the bushes, and ^he Hght they produce is almost incredible. They are smaU in size, and of a darkish colour, and are most numerous in the lower grounds. The region they inhabit is quite illuminated. " Those marvellous insects, according to tradition, were originally a race of beldames, who peopkd thos J parts long before the memory of man, being of that abominated race called brimstones, pnd who, for their innumerable sins against the childre. of men, and to furnish an awful warning to the beauteous sex, were doomed to infest the earth in the shape of terrible little bugs, enduring the internal torment of that fire which ^ ^.> Ain> TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 65 cies, re- bits and I by its mentary nd may as the When arsor of le parts sphoric ittering iuce is d of a ! lower inated. idition, I those )f that r their and to , were e little which hey formerly earned in their hearts, and breathed forth m their words, but now are sentenced to bear about or ever in their taUs-from whence their light proceeds." * AMERICAN WASP. A small winged insect, which in some respects re- sembles the English waap, engaged my attention, as be.ng a wonderful little creature, having two distinct bod.es, nearly equal in size, but furnished only with one pa.r of wings. The bodies are united together at the ends, by a very small substance, at the distance of half.an..nch apart from each other. Those insect-s although smaU m size, deserve to be noticed as great c«nosu.es, being unlike anything naturally produced Jn the old country. AMERICAN BULL FROGS. Those reptUes may be considered ugly creatures • greatly resembling in size and symmetry a moderate^ sized tea-kettle. In communicating with each other at a distance, the full force of their stentorian lungs |s brought mto action : their language is one of a pecu- bar descnpt,on,-frequently answering each other with an exact number of sounds, which I have often times noticed. f2 66 NAiii; vTjlve of a voyage to. The first time my ears were saluted with the sound of those reptiles, I was walking luong by the side of a small river, which was partly covered with brush- wood, when I suddenly became alarmed by a noise, whiuh issued from something concealed in the bush ;-— no stranger can ever mistake the bull frog, after once having Ivoard its tremendous belloiv. I stood for a time qiute motionless, like a statue, with survvist. Recovering;, I seized hold of a weapon, which was fortw. nately within my reach, and began to retreat; keeping my eyes steadfastly fi:.2a or: the spov from whence the sound proceeded. At }.n,rtli I took to my heels, in breathless haste. Aft..; xanning for a considerable ♦ distance, I discovered a ntan seated by the water-side, sheltered from the burning rays of the sun, to whom I related my fecrful tale. Just at that moment the sin- gular sound that had so alarmed me was repeated, at a short distance from us ; and the person relieved my agitatioii, by informing me that the sound proceeded from a harmless reptile called a bull frog. On my re- turn to the Inn, and relating the singular event, the risibic muscles of the company were excited to such a degree, as to draw forth peals of laughter ; and I be- came the involuntaiy object of their mirth. lii AMERICAN TREE TOAD. This reptile is considered a great natural curiosity AND TBAVEL8 IN, UPPEK CANADA. 67 in th\s country : indeed, it is, in many respects, one of ilie most amusing and remarkable creatures in the province. Its feet have claws, like a bird, and the body exhibits a vt -i.ety of figures and colours. In other respects, it resembles in appearance the common toad. Ihe country, in some parts, seems alive with the pleasmg notes of these little choristers, sounding forth a variety of musical chords, and piping their merry glees m tuneful harmony. In delivering the sounds the vibrations closely resemble the shrill whistle of J sportsman's whip ; which sound they will continue to utter for the space of ten minutes, without 'Vtermis- sion, and may be heard at the distance of half-a-mile On an evening, when a number of them are together the harmony they produce is quite melodious, and has entitled them to the distinction of the Canadian band Those httle creatures are seldom seen, and have, like the chamelion, the peculiar property of changing colour to correspond with the bark of various trees, which they can ascend with great facility. JOURNEY TO Ax\ INDIAN VILLAGE. Native Indians of the Mohawk tribe hold extensive possessions of land at Port Credit, where a village has been built for them, by the British government, plea- santly situated on the bank of the river Credit, a few miles north of Lake Ontario, and twenty-five miles 68 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAOK TO, west of the City of Toronto. The river Credit flows into Lake Ontario ; and Port Credit, though now only a small village, promises at some future day to become a place of considerable trade and enterprize. It con- sists of nearly one hundred dweUing-houses, which are arranged in tolerable order : a neat building is appro- priated as a place for public worship, and a missionary, ot the Methodist connexion, is stationed here, to ad- mmister religious services amongst them. I went into several of their houses, which I found were in very decent condition : the inmates were civil, but in general showed symptoms of shyness. The' dress of the females is rather oddly disposed of; the longest of their dresses being underneath, and are gradually shortened to their outer dress. Great pecu- liarity is also observable in the head dresses : the manner in which their hair is arranged somewhat resembles the two-tailed wig of the English barrister, and lays down their backs in two broad plaits. ThosJ people are greatly devoted to the British nation, and seem to venerate the name of their great mother, the Queen of England. I endeavoured to procure from them some of their weapons of war, or other relics of antiquity ; but they had previously parted with most of those curiosities. The only articles preserved were shown to me at the residence of one of the chiefs, named Peter Jones, to whom I was kindly introduced by a missionary. Those produced were principally of a simple description ; but were preserved as specimens ■H (lit flows now only o become It con- vhich are is appro- ssionary, }, to ad- I found ere civil, 8. The of ; the and are it pecu- !8 : the mewhat arrister. Those 3n, and ler, the e from ilics of h most d were chiefs, oduced lly ofa cimens AND TKAVEL8 IN, UPPER CANADA, 69 Of their ancient habits and customs. Some of them consisted of small shells, which the Indians attacn to different parts of their limbs, when dancing, and which appear to produce a tinkling and inspiring sound. The functionaries exhibited those relics before the audience m public devotions, to impress upon their minds the' progress of civilization, and the comforts they enjoy through the instrumentality of the missionaries' exer' tions. compared to that of former times, when in a state 01 Ignorance and superstition. Those Indians are manufacturers of wicker-work, and frequently enter the City of Toronto, in the summer to dispose of their wares : the articles made by them' are principally of a light texture, and very showy colours. Females are called squaws; and when on travel with their infants, which are called pappoos, they have cadles. composed of light wicker materials at the upper part, with a thin deal bottom, to which their young offspring are screwed down, which gives their feet an inward inclination. When children are sucking both cradle and child are raised together ;-this I wit ' nessed while I was at this Indian village. The lower order of chiefs, when travelling, rather resemble in appearance the English morris-dancers. 1 heir dress is ornamented with ribbons, in different parts and they seem to take a pride in being noticed. 1 he dress of the squaws is equally conspicuous. Over their shoulders is spread an old blanket, and their legs are ornamented in a most gaudy and fantastic manner ^ 70 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, h. I 'i ill their sandals are of their own ma^njfacture, and puck- ered on the outside, and ek^antb bespangled with beads. Beautiful articles, ralieu moccasins, or slippers are also manufactured ! y them ; they are ornamented with a profusion of beHs, of various sizes and colours, and are considered remarkable specimen'; of fl,Hr in- dustry and ingenuity. The beads are said to be sent to the Indians, from England, and are supposed to be the gifts of royalty. The tribe wbo inhabit this part of the country is not considered «o bo the most intellectual of their race; but they arc harmless, inoffensive people ; and the generality of them have taken the tee-total pledge. They were formerly much addicted to dri-^king ardent spirits, and when in a state of intoxication, showed symptoms of a vicious disposition towards eadi other. Tavern keepers, and otiiers, are prohibited from serving them with spirituous liquors ; and a transgression, if discovered, subjects the party implicated to a penalty for the infringement of the law. Peter Jones, one of the head chiefs c this tribe visited England in the re.gn of King William the' Fourth. AGRICULTURE. Farmers of the first class adopt the Ah mg sue cession of crops :— Wheat, peas, clover (two years ;) AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 7l thenfallo. Under this system of management, where the land is of suitable quality, the crops, in favourable season., will be very productive. Grain, in general IS rather nmaller in Canada than in England, and is' fine m quality. The scorching heat of the summer's 8un sometimes brings the crops to a fit state for reap- ing before t.hey come to maturity. Crops of potatoes under good management, in favourable seasons, are abundant, and generally fetch a higi. prico in the mar- ket ; but potatoes, like most other crop are greatly neglected : weeds are suffered to remain amongst them for the express purpose, .s some farmers have observed " to keep the sun from burning the land." Cottagers* with half an acre of land at their door, and a numer' ous family ,a the house, do not employ the.r children to clear the cr-.ps, fc tL above-stated reason, if reason « y be called, In Canada, , children are not brought up with industrious h. .its. n. ^o tl.c farmers appear desirous of employmg them on their ^ nns. No groups of work- ing people are seen moving to the fields, as in other CO ntnes, to clear the land of spontaneous incumbrance • indeed, it is an acknowledged fact, tha n application to some of the lower order of people, for iheir child- re 's services to go into the fields, not nlv wounds the pride of ,lieir parents, but is rec. ived a. direct insult. Some parts of the country is so thini> popu- lated, that assistance could ., possibly be obtained Some of the "anadian farmers seem ^o have very ii iiUlHI I i; »-■: 73 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, little activity of mind about them. Their indolence and indifference cannot be surpassed. There is cer- tainly a few instances of tolerable good farming to be found ; but taking it gen ally, it is very deficient. Drainage U totally neglected. I have travelled over a great number of farms, but could not find either ditches or grips about them. A petition for i drainage act is talked of, as shortly to be laid before the Canadian House of Assembly, which, if granted, will have the effect of greatly im proving the condition of the country. Agricultural associations are established in some parts of Canada ; but their scientific labours do not, at present, seem much regarded by one-fourth of the province : but the most influential people are strenu- ously exerting themselves in favour of a general move- ment. Twelve months before I arrived in Canada, no encouragement was offered for improvements in agri- culture. Cattle shows are now held twice a-year, in the City of Toronto ; and liberal premiums are offered, to encourage improvement in the breed of stock ; and a spirited competition appears to be the result. HORTICULTURE. Horticultural shows are also held twice a-year, in Toronto, at the Governor's house. An exhibition of AND rnwEta in, UPpeb Canada. 73 indolence re 18 ccr- ling to be deficient, led over a nd either as shortly Assembly, reatly im in some 8 do not, :th of the re strenu- ral move- anada, no 3 in agri- i-year, in e offered, ock ; and t. -year, in bition of this society took place in the spring of the year 1843, and wus visited by the fasliionablc inhabitants of the city, many of whom expressed tlicmselves highly gra- tified with the variety of specimens exhibited. The display of vegetables, (Vuits, and flowehs, far exceeded my most sanguine expectations. For the time of the year, the profVision and variety of flowers was quite surprising — the bouquets were beautifully and taste- ftilly arranged. A military band was in attendance, Oh the pleasure-ground at the front of the mansion, pouring forth sounds of sweetest melody, " Where beauteous females' siniliiig fuccH, Oil the pi'umcuude we view. Who charmed with music, pass for graces,— Charmed With eights of lovers too." The western parts of Upper Canada are considered to possess advantages in climate and soil, which can scarce! bo equalled in any other districts in the united provinces. In some parts of Upper Canada, plenty of land may be found well adapted for the growth of hemp and flax, and the climate favourable. Hitherto, only few practical experiments have be^ji made to encourage its cultivation, and those have generally been unsucecs.sfui. Steady men, who tho- roughly understand the cultivation of hemp and flax, might do Avell. From the best information I could gain on the subject, there does not appear to be as o I ' 'il, ill if 74 naueative of a voyage to, much hemp or flax grown and manufactured, as would make cabbage-nets for the province. y . ! The tempering of steel materials, for the purpose of dressmg line, &c., is not well understood. It would therefore, be advisable for emigrants to come well pro- vided with those indispensable requisites Wild hops are very prolific, and are fine in qualitv Ihere are a few instances of cultivation ; but only to'a limited extent. Onions appear by their growth to b3 quite in their native soil. In favourable seasons, their sizes aie pro- digious. Cherries, and a few other fruits, are scarcely worth notice, being of a very diminutive size, compared with those of England : the flavour is also inferior. Apples and plumbs may be had of tolerable good flavour, and are very plentiful. Gooseberry trees seldom bear fruit in this country • but currant trees, on the contrary, for abundance of pro- duce, and quality of the fruit, they almost exceed belief Vegetables, of all descriptions, require only a short time, from being sown, to bring them to maturity Ihe rapidity with which the productions of the earth are brought to perfection, is truly astomshing. Radish AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 75 «ccd, When sown in good seasons, require little more than a fortnight to perfect their growth. t Corn stacks are seldom seen in this country. The crops are generally housed in barns of very large dimensions, and the greater part of it is immediately thrashed out by machinery. It has been a practice here, when frame buildings have got surrounded with a few year's accumulation of manure, to drag the build- mgs to some other part of the premises, to get clear of It, rather than remove it upon the land. Hundreds of loads of manure have been taken and thrown into the lake, lest its pernicious properties should have a ten- dency to poison the crops. This is one reason, perhaps why stacks of produce have been so seldom seen in Canada. Those I have seen were most of them un- thatched. A Canadian fanner some time ago was placed in what IS termed a Yankee fix, having been detected in the very act of attempting to drown a cart load of manure in ihe lake. He was threatened with fine and imprisonment, if he persisted in his attempt m openly violating the laws of tJxe country. However on his return home with the incumbrance, he fortu' nately met with a fnend, wlio offered him sixpence for the manure, if he would take it for him the distance of le and a half. The off^er was cheerfullv a.^npfed one i! i I ■t; 76 NAUR ATT vt; of a voyaoe to, 'r u \'i .; J( by the delinquent, whose mind was thereby relieved from a troublesome load. Manure has, of late years, come into more general iisc : several practical Hriti.sh farmers having come over, and i)rovcd to them the beneficial results of its application, which has had a tendency to convince some of the Canadian farmers that their former views were erroneous. A few years ago, people wore paid for removing manure from the City of Toronto ; but now a single horse load is sold for 7|d. currency, which is equal to 6d. sterling money. Plaster of Paris, a native mineral, is in great de- mand as a top-dressing for crops of corn and grass, and is applied with very encouraging and profitable results. Canada is a fine province, with plenty of land of good quality. A wide field is open for improvement and industry ; but it requires a suflicient number of la- bourers to cultivate their farms to advantage : indeed, it is too frequently the case, in a country where land is plentiful and cheap, that some people grapple with more :than they can cultivate to profit, rather than endeavour to raise good crops from a smaller portion of land. The mode of harvesting adopted is rather peculiar. The crops are not reaped with the sickle, but are cut down with a 8cy:he, to which is fixed i .. fJ -■r^' AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 77 u light frame, rilled with long teeth ; it is called crad- ling, and gathers the corn in a very neat manner • but It 18 generally cut high from the ground, which causes considerable waste. The scatterings are invariably left for the pigs. The usual quantity of wheat sown, broad-cast, in this country, seldom exceeds five pecks per acre ; oats and rye, six pecks per acre. Latterly, some o'f the scientifics have recommended a larger quantity of seed to be sown, owing to the freshness of the land having become exhausted. Beans are not planted in the fields as in England, owing, perhaps, to the damage the produce would be liable to suffer from the unwelcome visitation of the fly. Turnips cannot be calculated upon as a crop, with any degree of certainty, as they mostly suffer from the attacks of the fly and the grub, before coming to maturity. Grasshoppers, in some years, are very numerous I have seen hundreds of acres of sandy land pastures, where the crops have been devoured by them. In' some parts of the country through which I have tra- veiled, I have seen thousands of those chirping insects, hopping around me in all directions. CATTLE. Canada produces some first-rate cattle. The im- proved breed of liorses arc not inferior to thnsn in G 2 ^im ^ff^-^ w ^ ■ ' 78 WAllRATIVE OF A VOYAOE TO, England ; and some of the horned species are equally pood. Sheep and pigs, from imported breeds, are also deserving of notice. It is a customary practice to serve cattle daily ^vith common salt, uhich is considered indispensably neces- sary to keep them in a healthy condition. The animals greedily devour it, owing to the freshness of the air, and being at so great a distance from the ocean. Many tavern and store keepers are extensive owners and occupiers of land ; and it is a practice with them, as well as with the master mechanics, to pay work-' people's wages, part in money, and part in what is called trade or store pay, which signifies an order given for amount of balance due, payable in goods, at certain stores therein named. When it is not conve- nient to the bearer to take out the amount of the order in articles such as the store furnishes, he disposes of the order for such a sum of money as he can obtain, which is frecpiently attended wi.h a loss, owing to a' general scarcity of money in the province. 1 ■ t EMIGRATION TO CANADA. Emigration is an act of great importance, and ought to be well weighed over in the mind, and perfectly » ANn TRAVKLS IN, ,„.„:« OANAIIA, 7<, ..ndcr,l„„d, by every person who i„een,l, ,„ omiKratc ment ,„ „ f„re,,., l,.„d. «„,„„ people are «, interested m K.™>B e„eoun,gement to emigration, tl.at no reli- once can be placed „„ tbem. Hundredn „f voh.ntary ran^port, amve in Canada, under .be impression tbut •t b«nK a new eountry, employment will bo plentiful ';■"' ""f ™""n<'-'«ly l»Kh : but in tin., they „rj deee,ved. The employers generally have numero •^..ppI,catH,n„ for en,pl„yme„t. On this account the w«K'esare lowered, an.l work very difficult to obtain ere also, as n, other countries, people n.ust be steady,' vho liatter lhen,selvcs that they will prosper by con Canad,ans w.ll have work for their money ;_,hey are a shrcw.l selfish people. Even juveniles are in gene! •■jJ loo old for onchalf of the ne,vly-„rrivert adults • "...so youngsters seem to have naturally a crafty dis^ |.<.». ...... winch is afterwards cultivated in their nfinds, "'I. "..7 ""■.vc at years of maturity, when, fnun eon- stant pract.ce, they may be said to have arrivc.l at a state of perfection, as first-rate adepts in the arts of iiuplicity and cunning. There are many poor emif-rn.Us n.,w in Canada, who amvcd wah their heads stored wif,. American m^na, woulu gladly return to their uauve country. Let the »ccdy speculator picture to his imagination a few of ] 80 naurative of a voyage to, im^ III ff '^ 'It the miseries he will have to enduro,--lct him fancy himself in a foreign land, far distant from his relations and friends, fixed in a desolate wilderness, shut up in a miserable hut called a shanty, the cold winter winds penetrating through its crevices and piercing his be- numbed limbs with their chilling blasts, he will wildly look around the place he has chosen for an habitation for his beloved wife and family, whom he has, perhaps, dragged from home almost against their will ; he views them with cheerless glances, and their returning looks of despair must wound his very soul, — all this he will have to endure, with the prospect of spinning out a miserable existence. Men of good reputation and acquirements, may do well as servants or mechanics ; and if it be the^'r object to obtain immediate employment, must not stand out for the highest rate of wages. On their first arrival, they will find it laore to their advantage to take such wages as can be obtained, being sure, in time, to meet with such reward as their services may entitle them to receive. Perhaps, ti. -e is not a country in the world were sterling worth is more fully appreciated than In Canada, and for this obvious reason — such characters are too rarely met with. Many people who arrive in Canada, can find no better employment than to enter the forests to prepare firewood, where they are fre- quently under the necessity of toiling for little more than is barely suflicient to find them subsistance ; and, m the winter season, work is very difficult to obtain, ANn TRAVKT,S IN, vrPM CANADA. 81 "s there is scarcely any farm work to resort to. Com .3 thrashed . ut early, and farmers assist each other Z what . „ea a bee, which in England means aW daj. The ,,™,c,pal s„,,,,„rt „f „,, „„<^j from subscnptions. as there are no poor-laws. Emigrants posses.scd of enterprising spirit, and the means to g.ve employment to the lower orders are greatly ^nted ; hut Canada is not at present 1;,: suitable for those dependant on their Ln exertions and .US truly unfeeling to ship off any family, J; first prondmg them with the means of transporting themselves .nto the interior of the country. cLes of th.s sor , of the most heart-rending deser^tion, Ta™ dents of Quebec and Montreal generously provided a fund for such contmgeneies, t;-. , .ults, i„ many cases would have been fatal. '^ ' Canada under unfavourable circumsta.c ,:„ havin. httle .f any money left on their -final locati,., whj have prospered so much, that after a few yea,» of in. dustnous exertion and economy, they have become P opnetors of several hundreds of acrJs of land, wUh good and respectable homestead, and every necessary eomfort appertaining to agricultural pursuits. If a country is over-populated, and employment .earce Emigration is certainly advisable ; but people should deeply consider the subject, before they .pit ho comforts of th";.TP„-iM- 1 - • ^ i "^ mu EnKli^ll homcH, for the nuscrable hnU it' 82 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, II? and habits of a foreign country, as they will meet with many customs and practices widely different from those they have been accustomed to, and are almost sure at first to feel and lament the change. Land may be purchased at almost any price ; regu- lated, of course, by its situation. Land, in disadvan- tageous situations, distant from markets and covered with trees, where the roads, for the conveyance of timber and other produce, are almost impassable, may be had at a very low price. When the trees cannot be conveyed to a market, owing to the badness of the roads, they must be destroyed on the ground by fire, which is attended with considerable expcnce, besides the loss of the wood. A man with capital may stand his ground ; but a person with scanty means, although he may purchase land on ten or twelve years credit, frequently in the end finds it a losing concern. Numerous lots of land have been sold to emigrants, on credit, for a fixed term of years, subject to the legal interest of Canada, "which is six per cent ; but the pur- chasers do not obtain possession of their title deeds until the whole of their purchase money, with the accumu- lated interest, is paid off. If he fails to pay off the purchase money and interest within the term fixed, the land, with all the improvements he may have made on it, reverts again to the vendor. Iherefore few succeed, but those who have capital to support them, as their profit must partly depend on the rising value of land, and an increase of the monicd class around them. ^ay, A new system has been .d„p, ..; ^y the Can« r Company in leasing their lanri .„ • '^'"'^<'«"> Baid to be very fo/oura L o the "'^'""\'^''-'- - enabled by its regulations to 1 y oIT::!.' ""=^ ''-^' the purchasp nf f • . ^ *"^^^ money in -0. Th:trs?:rcrrr '"• r'-^- -"- - as follows :-Tle lea^e ;„7""'' '""' '""' '""" "fled term, which is ^e or! ,v ten '""''" '" " ''^^- -quired to be paid d!wn "". " ''"" ' "" """"'' " annually, at the rate Z """" '■"" I"'J"'>'fc value of the tn ^Vs'Ti T' ™ ''' '''-"^ hundred aeres, when taLl ""' ™PP™^ ""^ 1- aere, whi eh would be ftv" ''T '™ ^''"""«' rfx per cent, would be t ' ''°""'''' ""= '"'"^^' "' allowed to the settler t 'T""'" ''"" P"-" - take his deeds for I Ud he" • "^ '"'''">"'• "'"' 'he lease, at a fixed ad °""'''"''' ""^' """^ ''"™S 'vhichwillbelfdpJrrtT^^."'*'"^''"-' J- .he date of the le"; ^^ ^^^^J™/- hcfore the expiration of the lease ' '"'"' needy speculator, hadte a' tli nrfT" '" ''" purchase his freehold • 1, " .'^'" , '"'y °f hemg able to %.hemustc::sMh:\:;t^^':-'.-'>^«-out- vating the land, the risL of fj''"'™^ "-"» eulti. n-i^fortunes that mav ,t , ' ''""'''''' ""<■ °'her '■■"able obstael s7l ' '' "'" ^^ °*^' '"nu- Marke. ^C .ad! "'" ?."""= ^S"-' ^is interest. Canada are su^ect ,o groat fluctuation.^ ■W 84 NARIlAtrVF. or K VOYAGE tO, In the price of agricultural produce. Duiinj^ the seasor it will sometimes vary upwards of one hundred per cent,, from various causes, all of which operate against the interest of the backwoodsmen. Some settlers o( cupy land at a great distance from markets, and where the roads are sometimes quite impassable, and have no inland navigation ; conse ^ucntly prices advance, owing to a scanty supply in the markets : but when the roads are improved by frozen snow, and sleighs in full action, then the markets are generally over-stocked, and the prices much reduced. But changes are only favourable to those who are in a situation to profit by them. I have noticed good teams, in open winter weather, enter the City of Toronto, with very light loads of produce, that have had only a f '^ w miles of bad road to contend with, befV>r c Uicy reached the turnpike road ; and sometimes they are m such bad condition, as to render it almost a matter of impossibility for the best horses to drag an empty waggon the distance of a single mile. The roads, in some parts of the back settlements, are merely openings, cut through the woods, and the stumps of the trees are left standing ; and it requires the utmost skill of the drivers to guide the waggon in safety. The roads are so closely hemmed in on each side with the trees, that neither the sun nor the wind can much improve their condition : the winter's frost and snow alone can make them passable. Farmers who are settled at the distance of fifty or one hundred miles from the markets, and are so circumstanced that AND TRAVELS N, VV U CANADA. 86 they must from necessity part with their produce, take It to the nearest stores and mills, and leave the price to the honesty of the purch..ser ; and when every ex pence .s deducted, they will not find themselves in possension of a great balance. Stores are t lablis^ tnents where all kinds of commodities are sold, su.h ^ groceries hardware, spirits, drapery goods, &c. of the above-named articles are generally includ the contract, taking tl-cm as part payment. It is said to be u contemplation to apply for an act of p.- lament for improving the main roads in Upper Canada, leading to^^ '. the Huron districts, and also some of the branch, ding from the principal roads, a. I thus open communications with Lake Ontario Those roads are to be planked to the extent of about 1000 miles ; * and all lands benefited by the improve- ment to be taxed to defray part of the expcnces,-the remamder to be raised by toll, &c. The proposed ac commodation would afford great facility for the con veyance of agricultural produce, and will ultimately prove a great blessing to the province. On the other hand, it will operate as an augmentation of the needy speculator's misery, inasmuch as if will add an additional tax upon their already cripp, d resources, and entangle them in a labyrinth of difficulties, from which they may nev.r be able to extricate themselves. Should those lands in the back settlements be charged >vith a rate of eight shillings per acre the first yeai of * Toronto Star. I' of loss rtions to AND TRAVELS IN, rPPER CANADA. 87 Clear the land as speedily as possible, or it will ,„o„ clear the,r pockets. But if a family will unite in their exer .ons, and cleave together like a bundle of st^ land wn r'','" '""'' '"'"'""' ""^^^^^^O of - "•-" land, wel deared. as will afford them independent sup- port, and bnghter and more flattering prospects in view Those who embark in land speculations, in the mer^,anofl,fe, must reconcile their minds to submit for the benefit of their posterity. Poor speculators' may dream of bags of gold; but the possession of them durmg their life, may perhaps prove altogether visionary— a mere phantom of the brain Many emigrants, who were in possession of a small capital on their arrival in Canada, have ruined the" future prospects, by plunging i„to wild land specula. Z: TT '*"' '""^ '" '"''^■" " P-P" know. ledge of the country_a step which many have had occasion deeply to regret. Such is the free admission of several respectable sufferers, with whom I became rather intimately ac quainted during the time I was a resident in the provmce. Canada is now as.,uming a very favourable aspect under the good government of Lord Metealf. Shortly after his lord^hip's arrival in the province, to assume' th. re ns of government, a bold efl-ort was made by the jacobite party " ,o pluck a laurel from his noble brow ;" 1 88 NARRATIVE OP A VOYAGE TO, but after an ineffectual struggle for supremacy, the country became more tranquil, and consequently con- fidence more established in Great Britain. Hence, encouragement will be given to the English capitalist, to afford facility for the better conveyance of agricul- tural produce to the markets. Railways are now in progress, leading from the City of Toronto and Hamilton, towards the northern and western districts ; and the province may at present be considered in a very hopeful and flourishing con- dition. The City of Toronto, formerly York, may be con- vsidered the principal focus of Upper Canada. Great numbers arrive here yearly, and spread their thousands over the face of the northern and western districts. It does appear, by the following statement, that emigration to Canada, by way of Quebec, is this year rather on the decrease. " Office of Her Majesty's chief agent for the super- intendence of emigration in Canada. "Quebec, October 12th, 1844. " Number of passengers -arrived at this port, from 1844 to the above date : Cabin, 563 ; steerage, 19460. To the same period last year : Cabin, 762 ; steerage, 20684. Being a decrease of 199 cabin passengers, and 1224 steerage passengers. Landed at Toronto in 1844, 7,500." Many emigrants who settled in Canada, from 20 to 30 years ago, with very small capital, are now in good smacy, the lently con- 1. Hence, capitalist, of agricul- from the 3 northern at present ihing con- y be con- ia. Great thousands stricts. lent, that this year he super- , 1844. ort, from ;e, 19460. steerage, gers, and ronto in >m 20 to 7 in good AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 89 Circumstances. Some of those agriculturists, as their families increase, and their sons become capable of using the axe, adopt tlie system of disposing of their cleared farms of perhaps 60 to 70 acres of land and move back into the woods, where they purchase ex. tensively, with a view to enable them, by industry and carefulness, to make ample provision for a risinJ generation. But the needy emigrant cannot enjoy equal opportunities and advantages. The former ha. the means to command choice of his future place oi settlement ; while the latter is destined to take up hi. abode in the remote and dreary regions of the Huron districts and Owen Sound. Yet, however cloudy the^V prospect may appear in the first onset, if a resolution IS formed to submit to whatever privations they may have to endure, time may dispel the gU,om; and under every difficulty and trial, hundreds of poor emigrant, have, after years of industry, frugality, and prudence, surmounted every difficulty, and now enjoy the pleas mg consolation that their families may hereafter reap the fruits of their industry. Canada is endowed with some natural advantages of which, perhaps, no other country can boast The' province generally is well and conveniently provided with small streams and living springs of water, which are extended over it. Wind and steam mills are scarcely known here • but water mills are numerous in various parts of the country, some of which are a great distance from m.arket. H 2 I H 90 NARHATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, Those mills are principally supplied by needy farm- ers in the districts ; but the cost of transit is, of course, deducted from the price of the grain, which renders the produce, as well as the land, of little value, except to those who can keep their corn and sleigh it to market in the winter, or otherwise to profit by an advance in the commodity. A sleigh is a carriage elevated on a frame, about a foot in height, without wheels, which will move at a very rapid pace, carying fifteen quarters of wheat over the frozen snow, thirty miles in one day, and return back in the evening. Sleighs for the conveyance of produce and pleasure parties carry from ten to sixteen bells each, as a signal to announce their approach to each other, owing to the stillness and rapidity with which they move. The mode adopted for clearing land, when in its natural state, is by beginning at the sides of the roads, which are about a mile and a quarter apart from each other, the occupiers leaving a range of bush at the bottom of their allotments, which meets in the middle, for agricultural and domestic purposes. There is scarcely any land cleared, except on the plains, more than from a quarter to half a mile distant from the roads. Therefore in some parts the views are very limited, except on the plains, unless advantage is taken of an eminence. In clearing hard wood land, a few pine trees are interspersed, which are killed by fire, or " girdled," to AND TEAVELS IN, UPPEE CANADA, 91 Bedy farm- asit is, of ain, which ttle value, d sleigh it rofit by an e, about a move at a ^heat over tid return eyance of to sixteen proach to dity with en in its he roads, rom each hh. at the e middle, t on the e distant iews are mtage is rees are lied," to prevent the foliage from overshadowing the crops, and are left standing to give them a chance of being up- rooted by a gale of wind. Those dead trees, with the rough rail fences, give the country a very cheerless and wild appearance after the crops are gathered. Here are no green hedges to protect and adorn the fields of the country. The rail fences are of a zig-zar? description, consist- mg of eight or ten heavy rails in height, supporting each other at the ends, without posts. Stumps from which trees have been felled are raised from the ground by a machine constructed for the purpose, assisted by the power of oxen. Hard-wood stumps' would decay in the course of eight or ten years, while pine stumps require a period of not less than one hundred years. After land has undergone a little manual labour, corn is scattered over the surface amongst the stumps, and harrowed in : the first crop will prove abundant,' owing to the long accumulation of decayed vegetable' matter; but its rapid prolific growth renders it subject to the rust, which proves very injurious to the pro- duce. In some parts of the country, I have noticed trees stand so closely together on the ground, that, when they were chopped down, the plough could not be sub- stituted for manual labour amongst the stumps, in the cultivation of the land, until they were exterminated, and the cost would be serious before time brings them' to a state of decav. 92 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, In Canada, wages for lubourera have boon ncccssa- rily high, there beinj; a scarcity in tlio country : from twelve to fourteen dollars was formerly tlie price per month, with bed, board, and washin^r, demanded for agricultural labourers ; but ei^ht to ten dollars per month is the common rate of walanked on the outside ; others are plastered with mortar, and marked so as to resemble stone in appear- ance, and neatly covered with shingle or tin. They r " 06 NAUUATIVE OF A VoYAOE TO, ,1: :! fl arc ftlmoHt invariably placed on cedar wo-^d ])0Ht8, dri- ven in the ground, being impervious to air or moisture, and very durable. A log house is erected with trunks of trees, placed upon each other, and well secured at the corners of the building. They are Bometimes merely pointed with mortar on the outside, and covered in with boards or shingle. A shanty is a wretched hovel, being merely con^ structcd of a few rough boards, of irregular lengths, nailed together, and covered with sods, or the bark of trees. Some of them are erected in the woods, for choppers' families, and are of such low construction as hardly to admit of their occupants standing in an erect position. During the severity of the winters, which are sometimes of long duration, It is not unusual for the inhabitants of those shantys to shelter their hogs under the roof, in the same room with them. In the rebellion of 1837 and 1838, log buildings, called block-houses, were erected by government, in various parts of Canada, furnished with ammunition and stores. Their construction is very peculiar ; being formed of two squares, placed upon each other, in op- posite directions, so as to form an octagon, and are filled with loop-holes, so as to command the approach in every direction. CAUTION TO EMIGRANTS. I would recommend emigrants never to meddle with I'.im I AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 97 •oHtfl, dri- moisture, th trunks cured at )metime8 I covered rely con> lengths, J bark of >ods, for itruction g in an winters, unusual ter their em. aildings, ncnt, in nunition ; being , in op- and are pproach Uc with politics : party spirit frequently runs very high ; und those who remain neutral will have enough to do to find support for their families, without creating them- selves enemies by their political opinions, or religious tenets and creeds. There are other matters of im- portance equally deserving the attention of emigrants. It is natural for emigrants, on their arrival in a foreign country, to make it their business, in the first place, t., enquire for some of their own country people, being more inclined to place confidence in their integrity than that of the natives ; great caution, however, is to be observed in forming confidential intercourse with any class of people on their first arrival, as people frequently appear most friendly in their professions when they intend to betray. Many settlers' morals become so depraved, after a few years residence in this country, that they eagerly avail themselves of^very opportunity of benefiting by the credulity of their own countrymen. Natives are not so likely to deceive them, as they, of course, are viewed with an eye of jealousy, and their friendly professions are received with a greater degree of suspicion. It is much to be regreted that principle IS not more regarded in the province ; but interest seems to have gained quite an overpowering as- cendancy. In summer, a life in the woods is rendered very dis- agreeable by invasions from the raoscheto race, that find concealment in the bush during the day, and make a sortie upon the peaceable inhabitants in the evening U: . I 98 } WAKHATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, Property, in Canada, is divided by what is called concersions, which means a range of land that ex- tends from east to west, through the whole length of a township. The first range from the south is called the first concession ; that behind, the second, and so on. Between the concessions, there are roads, called con- cession roads. This appellation is supposed to be derived from the circumstance of those lands having been conceded by the crown to the loyalists of the united provinces. JOURNEY TO THE WESTERN DISTRICTS. I left Toronto in autumn, 1843, and took my pas- sage by steam boat on Lake Ontario, to Hamilton, which is a neat ij^proving market town, with a popu- lation of about seven thousand inhabitants, and is situate at the western extremity, or head of the lake, at a distance of forty-iive miles from Toronto, touch- ing on our passage at Port Credit, Oakville, and Wellington Square, where there is a sand bank, which we passed over; it takes a direction across Lake Onta- rio, and extends to the opposite shore. Carriages are driven over it, without any apprehension of dan- ger. The bank lays a few miles below Hamilton, and is called a breast-work. A canal is cut through it, and is called Burlington Canal, of sufficient depth to allow vessels of tolerable burthen to pass up to AHD TBATEM IN, UPPEK CAKADA. 99 Hamilton. After spending a night at Hamilton, I pro. ceeded fonvard to Burfcrd, which lays further west. About th,rty.eight miles on my way. I passed through Aneaster and Brentford. Part of the eountry from HaraUton to Ancaster is very unlevel and romantic, and IS diversified by a number of trees, and adorned with a profusion of beautiful though fading decorations. On approachmg Brentford, I ascended to the summit of a range of mountains, at the foot of which, on one side runs the Grand River. l.s extensive and irregulT; windings accommodate the neighbouring . rfct, for hundreds of miles, by giving each a turn. On the other side I looked down upon a valley which is flMiked by a mountain covered with trees, the valley below being decorated with trees and shrubs of ahnost every description. On arriving at the stirring litUe tawn of Brentford crossed the Grand River, on my way to Burford which lays about nine miles distant, south-west o Brentford. Burford is built on the plains and is a very improving village. A magnificent church has lately been erected here by the Protestants. The clearance around the viUage is rather extensive, and the roads leading to London are in a progressive state of plankmg, and stage coaches travel the road from Hamilton to London daily. On entering the town of Burford, my attention was directed to a neat mansion, ornamented with veran- dahs, caUed Wood-nlle Cottage, the seat of Joseph 100 NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, Heywood, Esq., surrounded by one of the most splen- did farms I have seen in Canada. Finding, on enquiry, that it was the residence of an English gentleman, I was induced to make a call, and was received in the true spirit of English hospitality. As I had lately arrived from England, a cordial invitation was tendered to spend a few days with the family, which favour I accepted ; and, after partaking of a little refreshment, my worthy host accompanied me through his estate, which, as relates to quality of land, and mode of man- agement, I have never seen equalled, either in Canada or the old country; indeed there, perhaps, is not in the province a finer tract of land than that in the neighbourhood of Burford. The soil is rich and pro- ductive, and wheat, in this part of the province, which lays in the county of Oxford, generally fetches a high price. After taking leave of my kind friend, and his amiable family, I returned to Hamilton, to visit the burning spring, which is a few miles south of Hamilton. Night was fast approaching, and I was directed to a road which led me into a forest, in the centre of which is situated the wonderful spring I have mentioned. Shortly after entering the forest, I lost my way, owing to the darkness of the night, and became alarmed at the thoughts of being benighted. My alarm was in- creased by the lowing of beasts and grunting of hogs, which my fears transformed into bears and wolves. Other objects also presented themselves to my mind. lost splen- n enquiry, itleman, I ved in the lad lately i tendered 1 favour I reshment, is estate, & of man- ti Canada is not in at in the and pro- province, y fetches i amiable burning [amilton. ted to a of which (ntioned. y, owing rmed at was in- of hogs, wolves, y mind. AND TEASELS IN, U. .fi CANADA, 101 to awaken my fancy, and to make darkness terrible, as It was impossible for me to know, situated as I was, in what degree of safety I stood. If I moved forward, I might every moment expect to meet with some dan- gerous obstruction, or, perhaps, fall down a precipice ; If I stood still, wild beasts might approach me, and I was not possessed of the means of defence. I endea voured to retrace my footsteps,~but the darkness of the night prevented me from distinguishing a single object. At length, the glimmering of a light directed me to a little shanty, and a rustic youth, one of the inhabitants, approached me. His ruddy features were partly covered with his racoon cap; its shape pre- sented such a frightful appearance, that had his head alone been visible, I should have thought myself in danger of being devoured by a wild animal. Behind stood two juvenile relatives of the youth. They very kindly conducted me through the wood in the dark ; and after performing a series of somersets over the trunks of trees that were in my way~we had also to ford some creeks that intersected our lonely path- I was cheered by my conductor exclaiming, "I feel the odour of the spring;" where in a short time we arrived, and I took up my abode at a small tavern for the night. The burning spring is a wonderful phenomenon of nature. The well of thi« inexhaustible spring is about five feet m depth, and its bubbling motion may be compared to that of a boiling cauldron; its gaseous I 2 102 NABftATIVE OF A VOYAGt: TO, (I'i vapour is contracted by a cover, containing a tube } the gas escapes through it with gre > i force, and its colour and smell resembles that of the burning of brimstone. A new tavern is about to be erected on the spot, which is to be illuminated by the gas sup- plied from the fountain. The spring is medicinal, — and invalids repair thither to partake of its waters, which in many instances havg proved very efficacious. The inhabitants of those desolate huts to which 1 have alluded, generally keep a cow and a few pigs, that partly support themselves by gathering fruit in the woods, which may be found on the ground in great abundance. On my return through the forest, I was astonished to see the variety of fruit with which the ground was strewed ; such as wallnuts, hickory nuts, chesnuts, and beech nuts. It is from the latter-named fruit that American pork receives its disagreeable oily flavour. After leaving the burning springs, I, returned to Hamilton, and next directed my course towards a village called Waterdown, which is pleasantly situated on the side of a mountain, called the Alleghany Moun- tain, near to the public highway leading towards Hamilton and Dundas. One side of this mountain faces Lake Ontario, and in some parts rises perpendi- cular to the height of from sixty to eighty feet of rock, towering over the tops of trees which stand upon the sloping ground at the bottom of the precipice, which. AND tRAVELS IN, UPPEtt CANADA. 103 g a tube } e, and its burning of erected on e gas sup< ak thither mccs have which i few pigs, ig fruit in ground in istonished ound was inuts, and fruit that lavour. turned to owards a Y situated ly Moun- towards mountain perpendi- t of rock, ipon the ;, which, together, form an elevation of from 450 to 460 feet above the level of Lake Ontario, which is at the dis- tance of about two miles from the rock. In passing over the mountain, I noticed several fissures, occasioned by the overhanging of the rock, some of them suffi- Ciently wide to admit of either man or beast : travellers ought carefully to be on their guard, as some of those subterraneous regions are covered over with an accu- mulation of decayed sticks and leaves, and the unwary may suddenly find themselves plunged into the gulph below, to the depth of thirty or forty feet, without the least hope of effecting their escape, which, without assistance, they could never accomplish. Those caverns are the abodes of rattlesnakes, and other noxious reptiles, which are numerous, in some parts of this mountain. A few solitary bears and wolves may also be seen in this part of the country; but the greater part of those dangerous animals have been destroyed, or have emigrated to regions more thinly inhabited, and less subject to intrusion. In the yep,r 1844, a short distance from my residence, the inhabitants of the environs of Toronto, at the distance of about four miles from the city, were visited by a number of bears, one of which was discovered on the top of the stump of a tree, m the woods, taking a deliberate view of the improvements which had been made during its long absence from that part of the country ; and it received such a warm salutation from some of the inhabitants, that it became a settler. The 104 NAKRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, ,., i-K remainder of the tribe having no inclination to take up their abode in such a hot climate, suddenly retreated to one more congenial to their taste and feelings. I afterwards made a tour to Lake Medad, in the township of East Flamboro', in the " Gore district " This beautiful little lake has an elevation of about 600 feet above the level of Lake Ontario, with an area of fVom 80 to 100 acres, in the midst of a forest. The trees which surround the borders of the lake are always full of verdure, whose luxuriant foliage adds additional charms to the engaging scene. The forest which en compasses the lake, is quite in its rude state, choked up with trunks of trees, which lay upon the ground and so overgrown with brushwood, that the lake waJ not visible till I came suddenly upon it, which had the effect of producing on my mind a pleasing degree of astonishment and adnjiration. The lake presents the appearance of being rather closely surrounded by a mountain, gradually ascending irom the water's edge, and covered with evergreen shrubs. This extraordinary appearance is altogether the work of nature, produced by the wonderful varia- tion in the natural growth of the trees. The trees around the lake stand upon a flat surface, commencing close at the side of the lake with shrubs of the smallest growth, and gradually increasing in height to a considerable distance from the shores of the lake, and then they become majestically flanked in the rear' by the towering tops of the trees of the forest. Those' > take up retreated I, in the iistrict." )out 600 area of It. The ) always iditional lich en- choked ground, ike was iad the jree of rather ending rgreen gether varia- arface, ubs of leight lake, I rear, rhose AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 105 shrubs seem arranged in such mysterious order, as to exhibit the display of human skill, rather than that of nature. Lake Medad is said to be unfathomable. Several attempts have been made of late years to sound its depth, but without success. After taking leave of this delightful spot, I proceeded forward to Waterdown, by the side of a purling stream, which springs from the lake, and flows into some' other springs at a short distance from the lake. Those streams swell the waters into one continued current, whose irregular windings descend step by step, until it enters a ravine, at the depth of about 200 feet. Some parts of the mountain, through which the ravine takes its course, consist of rock and limestone, which is broken to the full depth of the other parts of the ravine, by the continual action of the current of water, which has for ages been working its way through the rocky mountain. On this stream stands, perhaps, one of the most powerful flour mills in the province of Upper Canada, the property of Mr. John Hey wood ;— it is supplied by a never.failing stream, not many miles distant from Waterdown. An extensive woollen cloth manufactory, and several saw mills, are also worked by this stream.' Waterdown is pleasantly situated on the Dundas road, and commands some of the most romantic and picturesque views I have seen in the province, being so extensive. 106 NARHATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, In the neighbourhood of Waterdown, on the side of a mountain, is an attractive spot, called "Lovers' Walk." This beautiful place opens into an avenue of shrubs, formed by nature, at the foot of which runs a murmuring stream. It is selected as a place of resort for party pleasure ; and in its windings are pensively whispered many a tale of love. After spending a few hours alone, meditating under those shady bowers, I set out for Dundas, a neat English-like town, with a population of about three thousand inhabitants, and lays at the distance of nine miles from Waterdown, and five miles from Hamilton. This part c'" the couatry is intersected with several very deep ravines, and furm'shes a variety of engaging objects, to those who delight in rude romantic scenery. In the vicinity of Waterdown, Dundas, and many other parts of the province, where I have travelled, the public roads, in some places, appear so dangerous as to awaken the fears of the Britishers to an alarming degree,— the declivities are so frightfully steep : yet although serious accidents are of frequent occurrence, it is amusing to hear a Canadian narrate the result of some people's adventures, even under such grave cir- cumstances. I heard one of them relate an accident in the following strain, which he said he had witnessed. " One day I met three gentlemen kind of fellows coming pretty slick down a hill, on horseback, and they were all high, (drunk) and one of them pitched the side of " Lovers' I avenue of vhich runs :c of resort ! pensively ting under iSy a neat )out three istance of tiles from atersected I a variety t in rude md many travelled, langerous alarming eep : yet fcurrence, result of ?rave cir- icident in itnessed. f fellows ack, and I pitched AND TKAVELS IN urPER CANADA. 107 right off, but he managed with a little dexterity to keep hold of the saddle stirrup with his foot, and the horse took him to the bottom of the hill first-rate; but the feUow broke his leg with holding on the stirrup, and his head, to be sure, got a few raps." On leaving Dundas, I returned to the vicinity of Waterdown, and from thence I set out, taking an irre- gular route, for Hamilton. On the way I passed over a wild wood mountain, the broken parts of which directed the course ; but their windings occasioned an extent of travelling of more than five times the distance of the public highways. In some parts of the moun- tam, at a distance of about two miles from the outskirt facing Lake Ontario, there is scarcely an acre of level land, taking half a mile in width, and fifty miles in length. Some parts of this mountain are so closely intersected with hills, as to render it difficult for man, and impos- sible for cattle, to pass over, except where ridges are mysteriously formed across the deeps from hiU to hill by nature. The ridges which I was conveyed over, did not ex ceed in width, at the top, in some parts, more than two feet from the wheels on each side of the carriage, with an unguarded perpendicular of 120 to 150 feet in depth, except in some few instances, were they are protected by the trunks of trees, and nothing but their weight to keep them stationary. Canadians travel over those places with apparent in- t ?• 108 NARBATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, difference, the cattle, as well as the drivers, being accustomed to them from constant practice ; indeed, under some circumstances, the sagacity of the animals alone has protected them from being hurled down those frightful depths. On reaching the summit of Burlington heights, a beautiful indescribable prospect presented itself, en- compassing within its range of view the magnificent castle of the patriotic Sir Allen M'Nab, speaker of the Legislative House of Assembly. This castle stands on the margin of Lake Ontario, a short distance from Hamilton and Dundas, and cer- tainly is one of the most delightful situations the mind is capable of conceiving. Its structure is rather of the fantastic order, but majestic in its appearance, and cannot fail to attract the attention and admiration of travellers. The castle is partly surrounded by battlements, upon which cannon may be placed to bear upon Hamilton, and the public highway, which rather closely ap- proach it. The prospect from Burlington Heights is surrounded by distant mountains, which form boundaries to one of the most charming variegated landscape scenes that the eye could witness. Here the liberal hand of natures brightest genius has been lavish in her finest works of art. Hills and mountains — lakes and rivers — all combine to decorate a scene far beyond my feeble powers to describe. AND TBAVEL8 IN, UPPEB CANADA. 109 WOOD HILL COTTAGE. Some parts of Canada are composed of ranges of lofty mountains. On one of those eminences, and within a few miles distant from the head of Lake Ontario and Hamilton, stands a neat rural mansion, called Wood Hill Cottage, the seat of the Honorable Adam Ferguson, member of parliament, surrounded by exten- fiive and valuable domains, the property of the above-named gentleman. This elevated situation com- mands a splendid view of Lake Ontario, Hamilton, l^undas ; and the adjacent country around, is adorned by a diversity of shady groves and verdant meadows spreadmg their fragiant perfumes, being encompassed by distant mountains and the most deHghtful woodland scenery, which furnishes quite a profusion of the picturesque. The residence, however, might be viewed by some people as bordering on the gloomy and solitary. But those who delight in soUtude might feast their eyes every day on some engaging object that would afford a pleasmg scope for meditation. The inhabitants of those isolated abodes, in a foreign land, appear partly immured from the world ; yet they have abundant blessings in store to compose and com- fort their mmds,~an ample provision for a rising generation; and although, in some respects, they may be deprived of intercourse with society, their own tamihes form a community of themselves, and furnish MO H^ RHATIVE or A VOYAGE TO, •lllfeient society for their own domustif hearth, where happiiuss might ruk predominant in the midst of plenitude ; but absent friends, and their native couuUy, Hi]l at times steal in upi "> their wandering thoughts, and eclipse those earthly enjoyments, which nothing but calamitous events might otherwise destroy. There are some parts of Canada which present very remarkable appearances, and resemble in form the broken waves of the sea in a storm, which must have been produced by some wonderful and ex- traordinary effort of nature ; while others may be compared to a tempestuous sea of mountains. On these rude scenes my eyes could dwell, and con- template on the wonderful and mysterious works of the Creator. ^ i Landed property, near the towns of Hamilton and Dundas, has increased in value of late years, to an almost incredible amount. In the year 1815 one square mile of land might have been purchased for two dollars per acre : in the year 1842, every acre of the same allotment would realize £1000 per acre, without a building upon it. At Dundas, where the town now stands, five acres of land were sold in 1804, for 185 dollars; ai; "o the year 1841, four acres of the same AND TEAVEL8 IN, UPPEB CANAD 111 th, where midst of >ir native svandering nts, which e destroy. jsent very form the ich must and ex- may be lins. On and con- is works ilton and rs, to an 1815 one id for two re of th«? , without own now , for 185 the same land were sold in building lots at the rate ,f £2,500 per acre. Such is the wonderful increase in the value of land, that if English capitalists, of , nterprising spirit, would purchase large tracts of land in favourable situations, and build some houses, to attract settlers to the spot, the hmd would in course of time increase in value, 80 as to realize for the speculator a princely fortiaie. AMERICAN FORESTS. A tour through the provinces of Canada is highly interesting to the curious traveller. The irregular in- termixture of extensive tracts of cultivation, with the wild forest scenery of nature, on her grandest scale, has an extremely agreeable effect ; for nothing can equal the undulated appearance of a well-cultivated farm, when contrasted with the deep shade of its neighbouring native forest, thickly covered with its primeval pines, occasionally broken by the projection of an immense rock, on which no vegetation can pros- per. The stranger should be cautious in his wander- mgs in the pathless forest : it is surprising how rrracherous the forest is, even to the old settiers, who have been known frequently to have been deceived and lost on their own land for a considerable time ' and by carelessly wandering far into tiie forest, lives' nave been frequentiy forfeited. &ii 112 NAEEATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, In my rambles through the wild woods, I had fre- quent opportunities of witnessing the degenerate state of the isolated inhabitants. Children might be seen running about the shanties barefooted, and ahnost in a state of nudity, and their parents in rags. The little innocents, who had been cradled in the forest, seemed as much alarmed at the approach of strangers, as the most timid of the fair sex would be at the approach of a lion or bear. Some of the shanties are inhabited by squatters,* who fix themselves in remote and obscure parts of the forest, where they are so densely sur- rounded with trees of gigantic stature, that the pesti- ferous smell of the vapour, issuing from the green cord-wood fires, is sufficient ahnost to sufibcate the inmates. I entered several of those rude cabins to light my cigar, but did not trouble them long with my presence, nor did I entertain an opinion from the ap- pearance of some of the hurley visages of the squat- ters that I was considered a welcome guest. Some of the woods through which I strolled were so choked up with trees heaped on the ground, as to render it a matter of the greatest difficulty to pass through them. Trees which had braved the fury of the storms for hun- dreds of years, were now levelled to the ground, and had the appearance of a chaos of desolation ; while others were tottering on the brink of dissolution, and trembled with every blast. On entering one of these ' * People who clandestinely possess themselves of land in the I had fre- ;rate state t be seen almost in The little t, seemed 's, as the proach of inhabited d obscure sely sur- he pesti- he green )cate the abins to with my the ap- e squat- Some ) choked tider it a h them, for hun- nd, and . ; while ion, and of these nd in the AND TKAVELS IN, UPPEB CANADA. 118 forests, a wreck of matter presented itself: some hun- dreds of large trees were laid on the ground, within the compass of 50 acres. They had been torn up by the roots during a tremendous gale of wind, on the first day of April, 1845. I entered the forest about 7 o'clock in the morning, and remained there until after six o'clock in the even- ing without seeing daylight break through ike outskirts of the forest; at length my ears were saluted by the sound ofan axe, and I directed my footsteps to the place from whence the sound proceeded, and there I lound a Darkey engaged in his daily avocation, who kmdiy directed me out of the wood. I had wandered the whole of the day without seeing a human being, or any visible object to afford me the least consolation of mind ; the only creatures that pre- sented themselves to my view were wild animals and noxious reptUes, which impressed my mind with horror and brought forcibly to my remembrance my native counry, where I had nothing to dread from the wild prowlers of the forests. Many ofthese forests abound with sassafras, sarsa- panlla, elecampane, and many other trees possessing medicinal properties. The interior of this forest is in some parts studded with mounds of a conical form standing close together and are so perpendicular to the' height of 60 to 100 feet, that scarcely a step can be taken m ascending or descending them without cling, mg to the brushwood with which fh^.r ^r^ cr— - k2 114 NAEBATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, 'I i.i: After being 12 hours alone, pacing this gloomy re- gion without a ray of light beaming through the woods, the thoughts of a happy home and good Old England were dearly cherished in my memory. While medita- ting on those delights which my eyes lingered to be- hold, the folloAving lines flashed across my mind : " Laud of my birth, brightest spot upon earth, Shall I leave thee for ever ? No, never ! Where ever I roam, Old Eni?land's my home ! Old England's my country for ever 1" In one of my adventures in the forest, I chanced to drop rather suddenly upon a little shanty which stood snugly ensconced in the midst of the forest, closely sur- rounded and sheltered by brushwood, and was rather amused at an hair-breadth escape of the " man of the woods." He related to me that he had formerly occu- pied a small plot of ground in the regions of Owen Sound, on which he had erected a small dwelling; and, one dismal cold evening, while comforting himself alone over the gloomy embers, he became suddenly alarmed at the distant howling of wolves. He immediately closed the door of his little cottage, and secured it in- side, as well as his means would admit ; shortly after- wards, footsteps were distinctly heard pacing around his habitation, which he discovered, through the open- ings of the building to be the footsteps of those nightly prowlers of the forest, the wolves, whose quick sense of smell had discovered that the place was in- habited. While in this painful situation, between hope jloomy re- the woods, i England le medita- ed to be- lind : — th, hanced to lich stood osely sur- ^as rather an of the jrly occii- of Owen ng; and, self alone alarmed tiediately red it in- ;ly after- around tie open- )f those 3e quick was in- en hope AND TRAVELS IN, VfTER CANADA, J 15 and despair, a thought was suddenly suggested to his mind which happily effected for him a safe and speedy deliverance. He fortunately had a small chamber above the ground floor of his dwelling, which he had no sooner reached by the help of a ladder, which he had the presence of mind to pull up after him, than an entrance was effected by his nocturnal visitors through the wooden walls of the castle. One of them boldly took its station beneath the opening which led into the chamber, peeping aloft, and in the very act of begin- ning to howl, when the trembling hand of its con- eealed and intended prey presented his gun and shot the animal dead. The remainder of the wolves were greatly enraged, and showed symptoms of a resolution to revenge the death of their companion ; nor did they give up their object till the break of day, when they dispersed. This alarming circumstance had such an effect upon his mind, that he quitted his possession in that part of the country, and transported himself to the place where T found him—his present dreary residence in the woods, where he appeared to have no reliance for support, except now and then a strayed animal, or a few birds that might chance to come within the range of his musket. During the time the poor fellow was relating to me the history of this providential escape, it was with great difficulty that I refrained from laughing ; for certainly I had standing before me a first-rate subject for the pencil of a Hogarth. 116 NABBATIVE OP A VOYAGE TO, urih In expressing my astonishment at the apparent in- credible entry of the wolves, which rather bordered on the marvellous, the man informed me that the brush- wood stood so close to the back of the shanty, that the ammals, in their fury, making a rush to pass through, had caused part of the tottering tenement to give' way. In some of the remote and isolated wilds of America, the misery which some of the inhabitants have to en-' dure, is doubly multiplied by the distressing circum- stance, that no surgical assistance can be had in case of iUness or accident, which is a most serious thing to reflect upon. The settler's health is of such paramount import- ance, that its preservation should be his first considera- tion. It is highly necessary that the utmost care and attention should be given to it, particularly during the voyage. The first ill eff'ects of the voyage is sea sickness, wnich, though not universal, is so nearly so, that not more than one in a hundred escape it. Though lightly spoken of by many, it is a matter of no trifling importance to the sufi-erer ; and, another fact is con- nected with the subject-scarcely any two suff^er alike some having it only for a day, others for weeks. To ensure tolerable health, it is highly necessary that every passenger should take with him a Httle medicme of a gentle purgative kind : without such medicmes no emigrant's stores can be complete. It is i\ AND TKAVEL8 IN UPPEK CANADA. U? incredible, the immediate relief which mostly foUows and 18 derived from taking small and frequent doses of medicines of the above description. The most use- ftil and valuable to emigrants is the Compound Rhubarb Pill, or some of similar nature, a box or two of which can be purchased at the port of embarkation. Castor oil, Carbonate of magnesia, and Epsom salts, will be found very useful by the heads of families, as bemg the most mild, and consequently the most pro- per for use by those who are unskilful in medicine. After finding my way out of the forest, I took up my abode at a snug little tavern for the night ; and, after refreshing myself with a glass of whiskey, and a few whiffs of the Indian weed, I retired to seek repose on a low couch, to which I was very complaisantly con- ducted by a chattering old dame, where I enjoyed a degree of composure and rest, lulled by the harmoni- ous strains of the Canadian band, and the melancholy plaint of the whip-poor-will. In the morning I arose rather early, and after making a hearty breakfast, took my departure, tole- rably contented with the treatment I had experienced with the exception of being a Uttle imposed upon by the landlady, who made a few extra chalks in my reckonmg. I endeavoured to conceal my suspicions of the lady's guilty designs by insinuating that the circumstance had been unintentionally occasioned by a chink m the chalk ; but no sooner had I demanded the change, than I was reminded of the truth of the old 1 I i ; 118 NAHRATIVE OP A VOYAGE TO, adage, that " it is bad to get butter out of a dog's throat." CLIMATE OF CANADA. Before I proceed to give a comparative view of the climates of these sections of the western continent, it may not be uninteresting to present some account of the character of the climate generally ; and although the degree of cold, and the vast and rapid changes of temperature, may not equally apply to all parts of North America, yet the following statements may be applied, more or less directly, to all those districts where British emigrants are likely to go in search of new homes. When North America first became known to Euro- peans, they soon discovered that the winters there, even in the middle latitudes, were a great deal more severe than the same seasons in corresponding latitudes on the continent of Europe ; and it was but reasonable to presume that a longer and better acquaintance with the newly-discovered country would serve to develop the natural causes of this somewhat singular phenomenon. Since that period, however, whole centuries have passed away,-— generation has succeeded generation,— until a considerable portion of the vast continent has become peopled by an intelligent and enlightened community, —and yet still no satisfactory explanation has been AND TBAVE18 IN, UPPEE CANADA. 119 of a dog's lew of the itinent, it Lccount of although banges of parts of 8 may be districts search of to Euro- ere, even re severe itudes on 3nable to with the elop the omenon. e passed -until a become imunity, as been given why the winters of the middle latitudes of the New World nre longer and more severe than those of corresponding latitudes in the Old one. Many persons have entertained the opinion that when, in a great measure, the forests became cleared away, the climate would become considerably milder, and more nearly resemble that of corresponding latitudes on the con- tinents of Europe and Asia ; and even at this day you meet with many persons who still entertain this opinion, although, when questioned on that point, and asked to produce their proofs, they are not able to adduce a single fact to assist in corroborating any such theory. Some of the older inhabitants will declare to you, that the winters are much less severe " now " than they were forty or fifty years ago ; but if credit is to given to the records of those by-past times, we shall find that with one or two exceptions, some of the seasons of the last quarter of a century have been fully as severe as any upon record. Many persons assert, and I believe with some degree of accuracy, that the seasons in Europe, and in our own island particularly, have undergone a remarkable change within the memory of many persons now living : and if such really be the case, how few attempts have been made to account for this change !— since no great natural phenomenon like that of clearing away millions of acres of forest- timber, and thereby exposing the cold and moist soil to the action of the sun's rays, has recently taken place •here; so that if the climate of Great Britain has actu- no NAKIIATIVK OF A VOYAOK TO, ally underKone a chaoKo, the cau«c, whatever that may bo, mu«t be of a different nature ftom that generally supposed to affect the elimato of North America Some pernonR have imagined that the climate of that part of the Upper Province lying contigt,ou« to the great lakes is influenced, some way or another, by the vast expanse of water ; h,»t this I hold to be an exceed- ing vague hypothesis. It is true that the surface of the waters of the great lakes become tepid during the Hummer months,-but experience has proved that, so early as the month of December, the temperature is re- duced to as low a degree as that of the water at the depth of fifty or sixty fathoms ; so that it can scarcely be supposed that a body of water, whose temperature does not much exceed (if at all) 40 degrees, should pos- «08s any peculiar influence, so as to lessen materially the severity of the climate during the long winters. Were such actually the case, how is it that the degree of cold experienced at the cities of Boston and New York (both situated near the sea) is fully equal to that of places under the same parallels of latitude although situated in the interior of the country, 50 or 100 miles from the sea.shore? Another circumstance might be adduced to show that the climate of Upper Canada is uninfluenced by the great fresh-water lakes : for the district adjoining Lake Erie enjoys the mildest climate of any part of the province, and yet that lake is much the shallowest one in the whole range, m consequence of which its waters are reduced to so r timt may Koncrally rictt. ite of that US to the T, by tho m exceed, nco of tho iring the that, HO ttiro is re- 5r at the I scarcely ipcrature 3uld poB . itttcriolly winters, e degree on and ly equal latitude, y, 50 or mstanco f Upper h-water oys tho ind yet 3 range, i to so AN-D TaAVRr.s FN. VVVKH CANADA. |aj low ft tomperaturo that no inconHi.ln-al.h, portion of it r OSes with ice during tho groat.,,- part of winter. If tLoroforo. tho bo n<.thern and oasterti parts of th(, fruited States 'I'lioHO persons who build their theory upon the su„- pos.t.on that the seasons I.eoome n.ilde; as the ori.i„',| forests gra.lually disappear, would fin.! (he fnefs nl.eadv stated .limcult to get over, since Upper Canada is „]( '. gethor a mor-e recently-settlod country than nuy of (he eastern sUit^s, and, consequently, a larger poriJ.in of its lands continue hi a state of primeval wilderness " There is one pleasant feature of tin, Ameriran clin,,.,te not observable m England, and that is the peeulinr d,v ness of the atmosphere. The inhabitants rarely suIHt irom the asthmatical complaints so prevalent in Mnglund tever and ague are common complaints in son.e parts <,r Mio country, owing U> the land not being properly drained. The chmate of Canada is not so variable as that of I-gl«nd, but the transitions are frequently more rapid ""cl severe, though it is not unusual for several weeks to F^^^ over m succession without a cloud being visible ij^a NAIIIUTIVI''. OF A VOYAOE TO. PrPviouH t() tlie setting in of the winter, an Dgreenhle rhungo takes place, at the lieginning of Novemher, called nn Indian sunnner, which continues about ton days. About the beginning of December, all around assumes a wintry aspect; and the cold and stormy weather will continue, with few intermissions, till the Ixvinnin'' of May. [n the upper province, on an average, December, -lanuaiy, February, and March, are the >vinter months ; but in the lower province tlie wintei-s are nmch longer. It is not unusual to have six or seven months wintry weather. 1 was shown some of the small lakes which were frozen over in 184}i, and did not break up of seven months. Agricultural pursuits are therefore greatly retarded, and the crops, in consequence, have scarcely time to come to maturity. I TAKE THE FOLLOWING INTERESTING DESCRIPTION OF THE DIFFERENT DIS- TRICTS, FROM CHAMBERS' INFORMATION FOR THE PEOPLE. "The various writers on Canada, each recommend particular districts for the settlement of tho Emigrant, l)ut it is hardly to be expected, that persons in this coun- try, can make a judicious choice, a personal inspection of the lauds, or at least information near the spot being AND TRAVKL8 IN, UPPF.Il CANADA. I'^S almost in every aiHe rwiuisite, the moHt elal.onito deUiils are given by Hourhette, in hid large work on Jiritish America, regarding the diflerent i)arte of the province, und as what he mentions, may he of use in furnishing emigrants with an id(ui of the nature (.f the lands, we take the liberty of offering a few of his observations. The Eastfun Section including Ottawa, Johnstouu, Midland, and Hathurst districts. Situated between two l)road and navigable rivers the Ottawa and the St. J.aw- rence, and centrally traversed in a diagonal course, by an extensive and splendid slo(.p canal, connecting the navi- gation, with the watei-s of Ontario, this section of country evidently enjoys important geographical and local advan- tages. lt.s surface presents, almost unexceptionably, a table level of moderate elevation, Avith a very gentle and scarcely perceptible depression, as it approaches the margin of the ma^iificent streams by which it is boundc^l to the northward and south-east. The soil thougli sonnv times moist and marshy, is extremely rich and ferdle, and chiefly consists of a brown clay and yellow loam. 'J'his section is intersected by numerous rivers, remarkable for the multitude of their branches and minor ramifications. There are also a number of good public roads, both along the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, and into the interior Great industry and attention to improvement are displayed upon most of the lands throughout this tract. The Central Section of the province (continues the accurate Bouchette) embra-o Journal. Dear , You wish me to give you SMue account of Canada, and 1 will endeaNour to do so; and if the little 1 have to say on the subject does not tend to in- struct, it will, I hope, serve to amuse you, and enable you to foruj correct ideas of this re»note l)ut interest! l2 "g f iJiO NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO, 1) comer of the world. I may not possess extensive in- formation upon exerj subject connected with Canadian affairs, nor do I wish to tire you with lengthened or studied details. Having resided many years in Upper Canada, and circumstances having obliged me to consider It my adopted country and home, I have grown impercepti- bly attached to the rough life of a woodsman, but I ^^^ll endeavour to divest myself of prejudice, and hope to be able to present you ^^ith a plain unembellished account. Emigrants coming to Canada generally entertain very erroneous opinions ; their information having been col- lected from the writings of people who have little know- ledge of the country or are governed by interested motives ; they come full of romantic whimsical notions, but per- fectly ignorant of the country they are about to inhabit and of the trials that await them. On their arrival, tliey ought to abstain from eating new potatoes, green peas unripe fruit, cv:c., &c., or use them in moderation ; for many on their first arrival, are afflicted with dysentery, Avhich I am confident, is occasioned by the greediness' with which they devour vegetables of everv kind, after being confined for a few weeks to the use of salt'provi- sions. THE FOLLOWING IS A QUOTATION FROM A LETTER WRITTEN BY A SETTLER IN THE TOWNSHIP OF NTnTTHT TTOtinr, ^ * x. AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 137 AND PUBLISHED IN THE ABERDEEN HERALD. '• From the experience of myself and friends, I give my plain candid opinion on this matter \/hen I say to the emigrant newly come amongst us, beware of attempting to clear more than you have a rational prospect of hnish- mg in time for the season of sowing or planting. Two ..cres well cleared are worth five acres indifferently fin- ished ; and if you can set about it by the first or second week in July, you may get two acres nearly ready to receive fall wheat. Should you attempt seven acres, un- less you have a strong force and plenty of dollars, it is ten to one but you will fail of being ready in time ; and if the spring is as backward as I have seen it, you would be too late for cropping them. Now if you can get two or two and a half acres sown with fall wheat the first autumn you are in the woods, and get half an acre cleared for potatoes by the 15th or 20th of May, which may be quite practicable, and perhaps another half acre cleared for turnips by the ^Oth of June, I maintain there is a rational prospect of your eating the produce of your o^vn farm during the second year of youi- settlement, and have as much as bring you to the next crop ; but bear in mind that dui-ing the first year you must buy in your provisions or work for them. Go on clearing for fall wheat during the summer, and perhaps you may get four or five acres ready by the second autumn ; and if you can get thp Stubble burned off, when your first crop of fall wheat ir ia8 NAURATIVK OK A VOYAUK To, Kro\V8, by tiio JiOth iH" '4r»(h of Miiv. next yoar you may Kot in a crop of barley witliout [)lougbing, and tiniotliv jifrass > H0(m1 gi 'OWl ith it, to »r h vn along wnn u, lo givo you a crop oi m.mv ♦luring tlio third yoar. If you oan got anotijor aero or ho cleared ft)r })otHtoes, you will have Home of tlieni to dispose of after supplying youi-self : and where turnips and potato««s have grown the [)revious yeiu*, you may get spring wheat or oats sown tlie next. 'I'his may be a rational prospect of the fruits of your industry at the end of your tiurd autumn or second harvest, and thus you may begin to feel yoursidf in a thriving way. This however brings me to speak ujKin the next matter for the emigrant's consid(>ra- tion — live stock. Ifheciui possibly atford it, he nuust (Mideavom* to procure a cow to begin the woild with. During the summer months a cow gets her meat in liic forest without costing Uhi owner a farthing for keep : and for the other six mouths straw and turnips will be advan- tageous, but tops of tribes, felled down for the purpose, seem to be the food they are instinctively inclined to pre- fer. The last of coui-se costs the farmer the trt)uMo of chopping them down, but as he nmy be engaged doiii;,' so for the purpose of clearing, he thus ' kills two bii ds with one stone'. Clearing can scarcely be carried on witlaait the assistance of a yoke of oxen : but unless the (Muigrant can buy food fnr tlieni. 1 would not reconnjiend him to puivhase these during the lirst autunni. but rather hire a man and a yoke to assist him when and where nooessarv ; and he may have son\e more encouragement to buy a yoke during the following year, with the prospect of havin" AND TRAVKI.8 IN, UPPER CANADA. UO «oino food growing for tliem. you will understfind that luivo been writing about the bmhft anninij as it is called, und taking it for granted that I am addressing an intend- ing emigrant who is i)o«8esHed of a nu)derate supply of »noney. In fact, supposing he had a considerable amount with him, still he will be nothing the worse for adopting the plan I have laid down. Were it possible to get a small cleared farm to conunence upon, it would perhaps be more advantageous to the emigrant. r now finish my letter by giving my opinion on the sub- .joct as a whole. If a man has firnmess, patience, and fortitude, combined with perseverance and prudence, he will in the course of a few years be quito comfort^ible. t might say independent, even supposing he set himself in the bush at a considerable distance from neighbours : l)ut if he could get the chance of a farm with four or five acres cleared upon it, I would recommend him to fix upon such in preference to one completely wrild, unless he is careless of what sort of neighbours he may be likely to have about him". TWILIGHT IN CANADA. It must be apparent to every obsei-ver that what is called twilight is of much shorter duration in Canada than in England. Wishing to compare the difference, I minutely watched the setfincf nf tlm op., ir, ♦i,« „.„-i__- _i .1 o ■^*^«" *" liic >Vc3tcni sky on ihe ;^Min 130 NARIUTIVE OK A VOYAGE TO, •>!Oth July, 1844, and it took its departure precisely at •^1 minutes to eight o'clock. I stood attentively looking at my watch until I could not distinguish the hands or tigiires: I found on taking it to the light that it wanted one minute to eight o'clock, so that only ^0 minutes intei-vened between the setting of ihe aun and dai'kness. I afterwards took observations on the 1st day of September and the result was the same. DEPARTURE FROM CANADA THROUGH THE STATES OF AMERICA AND VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. After spending upwai-ds of two years in Canada, I took my departure from the City of Toronto, on the 10th July, 1845, on board a steam vessel, and coasting along the shores of Canada, also Port Hope, Coburg, &c., where we received on board supplies of cord-wood for the passage. We then crossed Lake Ontario to the States of Amei-ica, where we arrived safe. On the morning of the Uth we entered a river at port Genesee, which led us a great distance into the country. We were propelled against a rapid sti-eani till we arrived a short distance below the little Genesee Falls. The river s flanked on both sides by ranges of mountains, which are covered with trees. On arriving at the falls, carriaafis wpra stp^iHWirr { AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. 131 ecisely at y looking hands or it wanted minutes lai'kness. 3pteml}er H THE >E inada, I on the coasting urg, &c., wood for > to tlie On the renesee, V. We rrived a be river 5, which & ■ readiness to convey passengers and luggage, by land, to llochester, which is situated on the sides of the Erie and Hudson Canal, a short distance from the head of the Genesee River. This flourishing town has sprung up so rapidly that it stiiuds unrivalled in the whole Union. It was only surveyed and divided into town lots for building, and settled in 18l5i, and it has now a population of about '45,000 inhabitants, and is still rapidly increasing. The principal streets are wide, and studded on each side with hiindsome villas, that stands in uniform order a short distance from the road. A great variety of slu'ubs are planted along the front of the dwellings, and also along the edges of the side walks adjoining the public streets. Those trees close at the top, and forai beautiful shady arcades. From Rochester, I took my passage on the Erie and Hudson Canal, which extends its course from Buffalo to Albany, being a distance of 364 miles. From Rochester to Albany, a distance of 278 miles, the canal mns through a fertile, well cultivated, and populous part of the country, including Lyons, Syracuse, Uttica, City of Rome, City of Troy, &c., &c. Albany is the second city in the State of New York for population and commerce; it is situate on the west bank of the Hudson, about 150 miles from New York. Several of the oldest and most wealthy families in the State reside at Albany. The Champlain and Erie canals meet the Hudson here. Ill i35i NAftRATtVfi OF A VOYAGE TO, Kill Uttica is a pretty and thriving town, half way hetweeii Lakes (Ontario and Susquehannah, and on the great routes by canal, road, and railway, to the west, being in the centre of these radii of communicatiou, it is Just heconiing a focus of wealth and refinement. Troy is a place of considerable trade, having nmnerous extensive manufacturies, and is most advantageously sit- uated for a current of water. The scenen- is worthy of attention ; the lofty mountains in the back gimmd, and the rocky precipice along the canal, impart to this neigli- bourhuod a very pleasing and picturesque appearance.'' The Agriculturists in the American States appear tu he an industrious class of people. In passing througl, the country I saw numbers of fai-m labourers toiling h. the fields where their work lays, until darkness compelle.l them to desist. I did not meet with any obstructions or annoyances in travelling tln-ough the States of America, except in passing over tlie lower parts of the country called tlie swamps. In the summer evenings, these parts swarm with moschetos ; tliose unmerciful tormenters, indiscrimi- nately attacked the whole of tl;e passengei-s on board of the vessel, witliout even pacing any regard to the fair sex ; the company, tlierefore, determined on retaliation, by sending forth volumes of tobacco smoke, which was continued to such a degree, during the whole night, that it caused a visible decrease in their numbers. The noise made by the bull-frogs, and the stings of those unmerciful moschetos. imrHv rii:»t%vivprl m- -^^ -^i ' •■ i- J v"^!i>t'u mc VI uiv pica- AND TRAVELS IN, UPPER CANADA. lo6 eures I should otherwise have eiyoyed in passing througli this delightful and interesting part of the country. From Albany, I took the steam boat on the Hudson River for Uie City of New York, a distance of nearly 160 miles, where I arrived on the morning of the J 9th of July, and found the city in flames. Upwards of 800 valuable buildings were destroyed, which, in addition io the loss of personal property consumed, were estimated at the sum of ten millions of dollars. The City of New York stands on an island, which somewhat resembles a triangle in form. It is 40 to 4;\ degrees north latitude, and 74 to 75 degrees west longi- tude, with a large and increasing population. This is the city of independence, in which liberty displays her cap. It is surprising what a number of the coloured mhabitants reside in the City of New York. The unkind treatment which they sometimes receive from the mob is almost incredible. From the black people having been hrst mtroduced into America as slaves, they are regarded everywhere witli great contempt, whether free or in bondage. Being thus always exhibited in a degraded light among the more powerful class, they have not tlie respect for tliems.lves which tJiey ought to entertain. They have a greater difficulty in getting a proper re- muneration for their industry or talents tbm tlie favoured cl^s. many of them however, in the face of all these difficulties accumulate wealth and live in splendour The City of New York presents n. vprv pioo.^^., a_. pearance to a stranger, the streets bein/spacioul? and I! ! J' fi! ' H .i ' 184 NARRATIVE OF A VOYArtE TO. containing a raanj beautiful buildings, the public parade grounds are laid out with much taste and judgment. Here the press flourishes so much that it stands un- rivalled, it is a fact worthy of notice, that in this city alone, more daily papers are published, than in all England', Scotland, and Ireland, put together, numbei-s of people' may be seen in every public place loaded with Newspapers for sale. Many of the papers are very large, and ap- pear to be conducted in a very able manner; cheap publications are issued in endless v^a'ietv. Fires are of frequent— almost daily occurence, and the fearful ravages and destruction of property caused by them are immense. The Steam Boats which ply on the Hudson River are in appearance a model of symmetry, and are ornamented in a beautiful and elaborate manner, at great expense to the proprietors, they have two tier of decks above the chief deck, and the upper ones ai'e principally occupied by passengers of genteel demeanour, which taking it in the whole, has a magnificent appearance ; the vessels are steered in a similar manner to those on Lake OntArio. The Hudson is the most important of all the Atlantic streams, it rises among the Mohegan Mountains, west of Lake Champlain, it receives the Kiver Mohawk -'35 miles below, which from the vicinity of Lake Ontario, has watered a great part of the western valley, its shores are bordered with very bold and varied scenery, couBistiug, a short distance above New York, of immense walls of primitive rocxv, stanumg 1200 or 1500 feet above the level of the w.iter. AND TRAVELS IN UPPER CANADA. 135 on On the yist. of July, 1845, I shipped at New York board a liner called the Hollingeur, Captain Bursley, bound for England, our passage was a very gloomy and cheerless one, nothing particular occurring during the voyage, except a little disturbance amongst the Irisli on board, who could not at all times agree with each other, from words on one occasion they came to blows and pro- ceeded to the deck to settle their dispute, not with the shellelah but by fistic combat. It was rather amusing to me to hear their yells, and see their capers, which were as uncouth and extravagant as the War Dance of the Indians, the straggle for the championship was not of long duration between the two selected to settle the dis- pute, neither of them appearing to have a relish for a souud thrashing, a storm arose at the time and their voices were lost in the wind and they were glad each of them to retreat to their quarters below, and order was restored on board the vessel. We were detained on our passage by eontrai^ winds which after a time changed and continued favourable for us the remainder of the voyage. On the ii6tli of August we arrived safe at Liverpool, after having had a cold and comfortless passage across the Atlantic of 34 days, and after a.i alisenoo of two years and five months. FINIS. JOHN Nicin.LsoN. pinNTER.^it^i:;^^;^]^:;;^^-^^^^