^ ^

"^^

Q ^ ^..^r c

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

^^r^
•<^^^

4^ « "a'^

1.0

I.I

11.25

2.2
2.0

lu 12,2

14.0

U 11.6

HiotogFaphic

SdoiGes

Corporation

^^ <*^3^-

n WnT MAM STIRT

WiliSTIR,N.Y. USM
(7U)t72.4M»

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHJVI/ICIVIH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Inttituta for Historical IMicroraproductions / Inttitut Canadian da microraproductions liistoriqiias

TMhnlcal and Bibliographic NotM/NotM tacliniquM at tMbHographiquaa

Tha inatituta liaa attamptad to obtain tha baat
originai copy avaiiabia for fiiming. Faaturaa of thia
copy whicli may Im bibiiographicaily uniqua,
whicli may altar any of tha Imagaa in tha
raproduction, or which may aignificantly changa
tha uaual mathod of filming, ara chaclcad balow.

Colourad covara/
Couvartura da coulaur

I I Covara damagad/

Couvartura andommagAa

□ Covara raatorad and/or laminatad/
Couvartura raatauria at/ou pallicuMa

□ Covar titia miaaing/
La titra Ja couvartura manqua

□ Colourad mapa/
Cartaa gtegraph

gtegraphiquaa an coulaur

•d ink (i.a. othar than blua
Encra da coulaur (I.a. autra qua blaua ou noira)

r~n Colourad ink (i.a. othar than blua or black)/

rri Colourad plataa and/or lliuatrationa/

Ptanchaa at/ou lliuatrationa an coulaur

Bound with ottiar matarial/
Ralii avac d'autraa documanta

FT] Tight binding may oauaa sliadowa or diatortion

atong intarior margin/

La f liura aarrAa paut cauaar da I'ombra ou da la

diatortion la long da la marga IntMaura

Blank laavaa addad during raatoratlon may
appaar within tha taxt. Whanavar poaaibia. thaaa
hava baan omittad from filming/
II aa paut qua cartainaa pagaa blanchaa ajoutiaa
lora d'una raatauration apparaiaaant dana la taxta,
mala, ioraqua caia Atait poaaibia, caa pagaa n'ont
paa At* filmtoa.

Additional commanta:/
Commantairaa auppMmantalraa:

Th<
toi

L'Inatitut a microfilm* la maillaur axampiaira
qu'il lui a At* poaaibia da aa procurar. Laa dAtaila
da cat axampiaira qui aont paut-Atra uniquaa du
point da vua bibliographiqua, qui pauvant modifiar
una imaga raproduita, ou qui pauvant axigar una
modification dana la mAtlrada normaki da filmaga
aont indiquAa ci-daaaoua.

I — I Colourad pagaa/

Pagaa da coulaur

Pagaa damagad/
Pagaa andommagAaa

Pagaa raatorad and/oi

Pagaa raataurAaa at/ou palliculAaa

Pagaa diacolourad, atalnad or foxai
Pagaa dAcoiorAaa, tachatAaa ou piquAaa

Pagaa datachad/
Pagaa dAtachAaa

I — I Pagaa damagad/

n*n Pagaa raatorad and/or laminatad/

Pagaa diacolourad, atalnad or foxad/
Pagaa

I I Pagaa datachad/

Th(
poi
of
fiin

Ori

aio
oth
fira

r^ Showthrough/

Tranaparanca

Quality of prir

QualitA InAgala da I'impraaalon

Includaa aupplamantary matarii
Comprand du matArial aupplAmantaira

Only adition avaiiabia/
Saula Adition dlaponiMa

I I Quality of print variaa/

rn Includaa aupplamantary matarial/

I — I Only adition avaiiabia/

TN
aha

TIN

difl
ami
bag

rigli

Pagaa wholly or partially obacurad by arrata
alipa, tiaauaa, ate., hava baan rafllmad to
anaura tha baat poaaibia imaga/
Laa pagaa totaiamant ou partiallamant
obacurdaa par un fauillat d'arrata, una palura,
ate., ont AtA flimAaa A nouvaau da fa^on A
obtanir la maiHaura imaga poaalMa.

Thia itam la fllmad at tha raduction ratio chaokad balow/

Ca documant aat filmA au taux da NMuction indlquA ci-daaaoua.

10X 14X laX 22X

2SX

30X

12X

ItX

aox

a4x

32X

Th« copy fllm«d tmn has bacn raproduMd thanks
to the QMiaroslty of:

Brock Unhranity
StCatfiwrinM

L'Momplairo filmA fut raproduit grica A la
O^nArotit* da:

Brock Univtnity
StCithariiiM

quality
lagiblllty
tha

Tha imagaa appaaring hara ara tha
poasibia eonsldaring tha condition
of tlia original copy and in kaaping
filming eontraet apadfleationa.

Original eopiaa in printad papar eovara ara fllmad
baginning with tha front eovar and anding on
tha laat paga with a printad or illuatratad impraa-
sten. or tha back cover whan appropriate. AH
otiMr original eopiaa ara fllmad baginning on tha
first paga with a printad or illuatratad impraa*
sion, and anding on tha laat paga with a printad
or Hhwtratad impraaalon.

Tha laat racordod frama on aach microfieha
•halt contain tha symbol —^ (moaning "CON-
TINUf D"). or tha symbol ▼ (moaning "END"),
whteliavar appiiaa.

Las imagas suivsntss ont Ati raproduitss avac Is
plus grand soln. compts tsnu ds la condition st
da la nattat* da I'axampiaira film*, st sn
conformit* avac laa conditions du contrat da
filmaga.

Laa anampiairaa originaux dont la couvartura sn
papiar aat imprimto sent fiimAs sn commsn^ant
par la pramiar plat at an tarminant soit psr Is
dsmiAra paga qui comporta una smprsints
d'imprassion ou d'illustrstion, soit psr Is sscond
ptat. ssion Is CSS. Tous Iss sutrss sxsmplsirss
originaux sont filmAs sn commsn^snt psr la
pramiAra paga qui comporta una amprainta
d'impraaaion ou d'illustrstion st sn tsrminant psr
la dami*ra paga qui comporta una talla
amprainta.

Un daa symboiss suivsnts sppsrsltra sur la
damiAra imaga da chaqua microfiche, salon la
cas: la symbols -^ signifis "A SUIVRE". Is
symbols ▼ signifis "FIN".

Mapa, platee, charts, ste.. may be filmed et
different reduction retioe. Thoee too large to be
entirely included in one expoeure are filmed
beginning in the upper left hand comer, left to
right and top to bottom, aa many framee ae
required. The following dlegrama iHuatrata tha
method:

Las csrtss, pisnches, tabieeux. etc.. psuvsnt *trs
filmto k das taux da rMuction diff Aronts.
Lorsqus Is document est trop grsnd pour Atrs
rsproduit sn un soul ciichA. ii est f iim* A partir
da I'angie supArisur gsuchs. ds gauchs * droits,
st da liaut en baa. en prenant la nombra
d'images n4cssseire. Las disgrsmmss suivsnts
illustrsnt la mithoda.

1 2 3

•

' r

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA:

BEING

A COMPLETE GUIDE TO ALL THE POINTS OF INTEREST AROUND AND IN
THE IMMEDIATE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE GREAT CATARACT.

WITH

VIEWS TAKEN FROM SKETCHES BY WASHINGTON FRIEND, ESQ.,
AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS.

T. NELSON AND SONS, 42 BLEECKER STREET, NEW YORK.
TORONTO: JAMES CAMPBELL AND SON.

mmmmmm'immgmmmm^^

mmmm^^^milim^^f9.f ' iiib^w.^ib.uu™

■:^.

INDEX.

ABBOT, FKAN0I8, THE DEIIMIT OF TUE FALLH,
AHERIQAM FALL, SIZE OF, .
AMERICAN FALL, VIEW FROM BELOW,
AMERICAN FALL, CANADIAN SIDE,
* VERY, JOSEPH,
BATH ISLAND,
BATTLE OF CHIPPEWA,
riddle's STAIRS,

black rock,

blondin's feats,

bloody run,

bridge over the rapids,

bridge, new suspension, at niagara falls,

bridge, niagara suspension,

brock's MONUMENT,
BUFFALO,
BURNING SPRING,

CAROLINE, BURNING OF THE

CAVE OF THE WINDS,

CENTRE FALL,

(17)

21
10
10
17

18
16
19
32
20
SO

7
27
26
80
82
16
32
22

CHAPIN ISLAND

CHIPPEWA, ..
CLIFTON BOUSE,

DEVIL'S HOLE,

FALLS, VILLAGE or TUE,

ferry house,

goat or iris island,

goat or iris island, head of, . .

grand island,

gull island,

hermit's cascade

hermit of the falls,

horse-shoe fall, . .

hor8e-8hob fall, from below goat island,

HOTELS,

ISLANDS, THE,

LBWISTON,

LVNA ISLAND,

LUNAR BOW, . .

LUNDY'S LANE BATTLE OBOUIIO, ..

9
33
17
SO

6
10
18
23
32
16
23
21
13
22

83
31
19
19

INDEX.

UAID OF THK MIBT,

UASSASACOA, FORT,

MINERAL SPRINGS,

H088 ISLAKD,

MCSECM,

NAVY ISLAND,

NIAQARA FALLS, SIZE OP,

HIAOARA FALLS, DISCOVERT OF, .

NIAOARA FALLS FROM POINT VIEW,

MIAQARA, FORT,

NIAGARA RIVER ABOVE THE FALLS,

NIAGARA RIVER BELOW THE FALLS,

NIAGARA BY MOONLIGHT,

NIAGARA IN WINTER,

NIAGARA TOWN,

OBJBOTS OF INTEREST IN NEiaHBOCRHOOD,

PROSPECT HOUSE,

. 13
. 82

. 30
. S3
. 16
. 38
6,10
6
. 9
, 82
. 32
. 17
. 25
. 24

. sa

. 28
. 14

Qll-EEKBTON,

RAILROAD, ERIE AND ONTARIO,

RAILROAD, BUFFALO, NIAGARA FALLS, AND

SAM patch's LEAPS,

8CHL0SSER, FORT,

SOLAR BOW, . .

STATISTICS, . .

TABLE ROOK, ..

TERRAPIN TOWER,

THREE SISTERS,

TONA WANDA, . .

WATERLOO VILLAGE,

WHIRLPOOL, THE,

WHITE CANOE — LEGEND,

GEOLOGY OF NIAGARA,
DESCRIPTIVE FTECHS,

• •• ••

• •• • •

D LBWISTON,

• •> ••

• • • • •

. ■ • • •

2.';

• • • ••

• •• r •

31
17
81
20
82
19
6
11
20
15

84
M

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

INTRODUCTION.

Thb Palls of Niagara may justly be classed ninong the
wonders of the world- They are the pride of America,
and their grandeur, magnitude, and magnificence are well
kuowo to all the civilized world. Kver since the dis-
covery of this wonderful cataract, millions have flocked
thither from all countries to gaze with feelings of the deep-
est solemnity on the tumultuous fall of waters, and to
adore the power and majesty of the Almighty as these are
exhibited and realized amid the sublime scenery of this
stupendous waterfall.

In the following pages we shall attempt to guide the
traveller to the various points whence the finest views of
the Falls may be obtained, and, thereafter, conduct him
to the spots of peculiar interest in their neighbourhood.
(17)

The great lakes of North America— Superior, Michi-
gan, Huron, and Erie— pour the flood of their accumu-
lated waters into Lake Ontario through a channel of
about 36 miles in length. This channel is named the
Niagara Biver, and is part of the boundary between
Canada and the State of New York. Twenty-two miles
below its commencement at Lake Erie occur the famous
Falls of Niagara. Tliese Falls are divided into two by
Iris or Goat Island. The American Falls are 900 feet
wide, by 164 feet high. The Horse-Shoe or Canadian
Fall is 2000 feet wide, and 158 feet high. The origin of
the name is uncertain, but it is supposed to be of Iroquois
extraction, and to signify the " Thunder of Waters."
The roar of the Falls is sometimes heard at a great dis-

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

tance, but of course it is constantly modified by the direc-
tion and strength of the wind. Over this magnificent
precipice the irresistible tide rushes at the rate of 100
million ton? of water every hour ! It is computed that
the precipice is worn away by the friction of the water at
the rate of about one foot a year, and it is believed that
the Falls have gradually receded from Queenston, seven
miles below, to their present position. The river above
the Falls is studded with islands of all sizes, amounting
to 37 in number. The width of the stream varies from
several hundred yards to three miles. At the Falls it is
about three-quarters of a mile wide. The total descent from
Lake Erie to Ontario is 334 feet. So much for statistics.

The Falls of Niagara were first seen by a white man
nearly two hundred years ago. Father Hennepin, a French
Jesuit missionary, first saw them when on an expedi-
tion of discovery in the year 1678.

The spots of interest to be visited, besides the great
Fall itself, are : — The ground where the memorable
Battle of Lundy's Lane was fought ; the Whirlpool
below the Falls ; the Suspension Bridges ; the Devil's
Hole and the Bloody Run ; the Queenston Heights,
General Brock's Monument, Burning Spring, kc.
(17)

We think it right to say that the Engravings with
which our work is embellished may be depended on as
being minutely correct, the most of them having been
copied from photographs, and others taken from drawings
made on the spot by Washington Friend, Esq., whose
beautiful and cleverly executed Panorama of American
Scenery is so well known to the public.

Let us suppose, then, reader, that you have reached
the Falls on the American side; that you have just
alighted from the train in the Village of the Falls, and
the thunder of Niagara is sounding in your ears. It were
superfluous to give you minute directions how to proceed.
Follow the crowd, and you cannot go wrong ; there are
also numerous ready and efficient guides, and, were these
lacking, the roar of the great cataract would of itself be
sufficient.

The Village of the Falls, through which you pass, lies
on the east side of the river, in the immediate vicinity of
the grand cataract, 22 miles by rail from the city of
Buffalo on Lake Erie, and 300 by rail from Albany.
Being a fashionable place of resort during summer and

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

ivings with
nded on m
laving been
iin drawings
Esq., who8«
f American

ave reached
u have just
e Falls, and
lars. It were
iv to proceed.
J ; there are
1, were these
1 of itself be

rou pass, lies
te vicinity of
I the city of
:om Albany,
summer and

autumn, the ItoteU at this village are excellent in all re-
■pects, and most agreeable abodes for those who intend
to sojourn for a time within sound of the Falls. The
chief of them are the Cataract House, the International
Hotel, Spencer House (opposite Dep6t) ; three magnificent
houses, in which every comfort is combined with elegance.
The Cataract House is situated at the head of Main
Street, overlooking the American Rapids. From the
parlours of this famous hotel, one of which is 40 feet by
CO, with a 22 feet ceiling, a fine view is had of the
Rapids, Uo.'\t Island, the Bridge, and the Canada shores,
considered among the principal features of Niagara.
Conveyances may be had from any of the above hotels to
all parts of Niagara. Rut we are too near the Falls to
linger here. Pushing forward down the street leading
past the hotels just mentioned, we come into full view of
the river at the point where it is spanned by the

CAST-IRON BRIDGE OVER THE RAPIDS.
Here the first perceptions of power and grandeur begin
to awaken in our minds. The noble river is seen hurry-
ing on towards its final leap; and, as we stand upon the
bridge looking down upon the gushing flood of water, that
(17)

seems as if it would sweep away our frail standing-
ground and hurl us over the dread precipice whose
rounded edge is but a few yards further down, we begin,

TUE BAPlUd ABOVE THE FALLS.

though feebly as yet, to realize the immensity of this far-
famed cataract. This is the finest point of view from

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

which to observe the Rapida above the Falls. The fall of
the river from the head of the rapids (a mile above the
Falls) to the edge of the precipice is nearly 60 feet;
and the tumultuous madness of the waters, hurling and
foaming in wayward billows and breakers down this de-
scent, as if fretting with impatience, is a fine contrast
to the uniform magnificent bweep with which at length
they gush into the thundering flood below.

At the other end of the bridge, as seen in our En-
(rraving, is Bath Island, connected with Iris or Goat
Island by another bridge ; and beyond Goat Island tliere
are a few scattered rocks, which are connected with it by
means of a third bridge. These rocks lie on the very
brink of the precipice, between the American Falls
and the Ilorse-Shoe Fall, and on them stands a tower
named the Terrapin Tower, which commands a raasnifi-
cent view of Niagara. But there are finer points of view
than this. Moreover, we shall afterwards have to con-
duct our reader to various points of great interest on and
around these islands, which, however, no one will feel
disposed to visit until he has given his undivided atten-
tion to the wonderful Falls from the most striking points
of view. We therefore recommend him not to cross over
(17)

to Goat Island in the first instance, but, after having
stood upon the bridge over the rapids above described,
retrace his steps and hasten down the banks of the river
a few hundred yards, to a spot named Point View.

Before proceeding thither, however, we may say a word
or two in reference to the bridge we are about to leave.
The elegant and substantial structure that now spans the
river at this point, was erected by the Messrs. Porter,
the proprietors of Goat Island. It is made of iron, on
tiie plan of Whipple's iron-arched bridge, and is 360 feet
lontr, having 4 arches of 90 feet span each. The width
is 27 feet, embracing a double carriage-way of 16.J feet,
and two foot-paths of ftj feet eacii, with iron railings.
All the materials used in its construction are of tlie best
quality, and the strength of ail the parts is much beyond
what is considered necessary.

Visitors may cross and recross this bridge as often as
they wish for 50 cents per day, or for one dollar for the
whole season.

The first bridge that was thrown over these turbulent
waters was constructed at the head of Goat Island in
1817. It was carried away by ice in the following spring,
and was succeeded by another, which was built in 1818,

out Mi'lil

'/I'lwy .V'c'i' .*')//

after having
ve described,
I of the river

View,

y Bay a word
tut to leave,
ow spans the
ssrs. Porter,
i of iron, on
d is 860 feet
The width

of 16.J feet,
on railings.
! of the best
luch beyond

as often as
liar for the

le turbulent
it Island in
Aug spring,
ilt in 1818,

WIN > r

^,...

NIA&AHA IMIS (ROM POINT PROSPICI AMfRIC»N SlOl

' '

•''%

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

on the site of the present structure. The difficulties at-
tending its construction were overcome in the following
manner : — A massive abutment of timber was built at
the water's edge, from which were projected enormously
long and heavy beums of timber. These beams were
secured on the land side by heavy loads of stone, and
their outer ends were rendered steady by means of stiltfi
or legs let down from them and thrust into the bottom
of the river. A platform was thrown over this projec-
tion, along which heavy masses of stone were carried and
drop])ed into the river. This operation was continued
until the heap appeared above water, and then a strong
frame-work of timber, filled solidly with stone, was built
upon it. To this pier the first permanent portion of the
bridge was fixed, and then, commencing from the ex-
tremity, beams were run out and a second pier similarly
formed, and so on till the bridge was completed. It was
built by the Messrs. Porter— extensive proprietors in this
neighbourhood— and was repaired in 1839 and again in
1849.

In the former year one of tiie workmen, named Chapin,
fell from the bridge into tlie river ; fortunately the cur-
runt carried him to the first of the two small islets below.
(17)

He was rescued from his perilous position by Mr. J. R.
Robinson, who has more than once bravely rescued
fellow-creatures from this dangerous river; and. the
island was named after him— Chapin Island.

In July 1853 another accident occurred near this
point. Two Germans took a boat, and set out for a
pleasure sail on the river above the Falls. Nothing
more was heard of them until next morning, when one
of them, named Joseph Avery, was observed clinging to
a log sticking in the midst of the rapids, near the bridge
between Bath Island and the mainland. Thousands of
people assembled to render the poor man assistance, and
during the day various attempts were made to resue him
from his perilous position, but without success. At
length a boat was lowered down the rapids toward the
log to which he clung. It neared him, and he attempted
to spring towards it ; but his strength was gone, and he
fell into the stream. In another moment he was swept
over the Falls. His body was never found.

NIAGARA FALLS FROM POINT VIEW.
This is indeed a sight worth coming many hundred
miles to see. Walking through the Grove, we emerge

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

upon the P>^Int in front of an establishment where
thousands of visitors are photographed annually in con-
nection with the Falls. Here, at one wide sweep, we
behold Niagara stretching from the American to the
Canadian side in magnificent perspeclive. Just at our
feet the smooth deep masses of the American Falls un-
dulate convulsively 4is they hurl over the precipice, and
dash, in a never-ending succession of what we may term
passionate bursts, upon the rugged rocks beneath.
Beyond, and a little to the left, is Goat Island, richly
clothed with trees, its drooping end seeming as if it too
were plunging, like the mighty river, into the seething
abyss. Just off the Point is seen the Terrapin Tower,
and right in front of us is the great Horse-Shoe Fall,
uttering its deep, deafening roar of endless melody, as it
plunges majestically into that curdling sea, from which
the white cloud of mist rises high in air and partially
conceals the background of Canada from view. Far
down in the river below, the ferry-boats are seen dancing
on the angry waters. It is a solemnizing prosiiect, and
wc should suppose that few could gaze upon it for the
first time without feeling that they had attained to a
higher conception of the awful power and might of the
U71

Eternal. This point was the last residence of Francis
Abbot, the young Hermit of Niagara.

The American Fall, on the brink of which we stand, is
164 feet in perpendicular height, and 660 feet wide from
the mainland to Luna Island. The smaller Fall, betweeu
Luna and Goat Island, is 100 feet wide. Within a short
distance of the spot where we stand is the

FERRY-HOUSE.

Here there is a curious inclined plane, down which we
descend in cars, which are worked by means of a water
wheel .and a rope ; there is also a stair connected with
this, at the foot of which the ferry-boat waits to convey
us over to the Canadian side, whither w^ intend to pro-
ceed, because one of the finest views of Niagara is had
from Table Rock. Ten minutes will suffice to convey us
uver, and the passage is quite safe. The charge is 25
cents ; but before going, let us hasten to the foot of the
American Falls, and view them /rom below.

Mr. Charles Dickens, writing' of this scene, says :
" The bank is very steep, and was slippery with rain and
linlf-melted ice. I hardly know how I got down, bat 1
was soon at the bottom, and, climbing; with two English

/«
If^

ice of Francis

k we stand, is
eet wide from
Fall, betweeu
Within a short

)wn which we
^ns of a water
tnnected with
aits to convey
intend to pro-
iagara is had
J to convey us
charge is 25
le foot of the

scene, says :

vith rain and

dowB, but I

two English

?'5

|i I

office
brok
spra;
Ame
teari
no i<
immi
Sei
ingo
and ;
view
we ai
are r
mile
and I
but >
aside
the r
ofNi

In
quot(

FALLS OP NIAGARA,

officers, who were crossint; and had joined me, over some
broken rocks, deafened by the noise, half-blinded by the
spray, and wet to the skin, we were at the foot of the
American Fall. I could see an immense torrent of water
tearing headlong down from some great height, but had
no idea of shape or situation, or anything but vague
immensity."

Seating ourselves in the ferry-boat, we are soon danc-
ing on the agitated waters, and gazing in profound silence
and admiration at the Falls, which from this point of
view are seen to great advantage. A few minutes, and
we are standing on the soil of Canada. Here carriages
are ready to convey us to Table Rock, little more than a
mile distant. Clifton House, not far from the landing,
and several other objects of interest, claim our attention ;
but we are too full of the Great Cataract just now to turn
aside, and as we shall pass this way again in descending
the river, we will hasten on to behold the sublime view
of Niagara from Table Bock.

TABLE ROCK.

In alluding to this view, the graphic writer above
quoted says : — " It wa4 not till I came on Table Rock,
(17)

and looked on the fall of bright green water, that it
came upon me in its full might and majesty. The Nia-
gara was for ever stamped upon my heart, an image of
beauty, to remain there, changeless and indelible, until
its pulses cease to beat for ever.

"Oh, how the strife and trouble of daily life receded
from my view and lessened in the distance, during the
ten memorable days we passed on that enchanted ground 1
What voices spoke from out the thundering water I what
faces, faded from the earth, looked out upon me from its
gleaming depths 1 what heavenly promise glistened in
those angels' tears, the drops of many hues, that showered
around, and twined themselves about the gorgeous arches
which the changing rainbows made I ... To wander to
and fro all day, and see the cataract from all points ot
view ; to stand upon the edge of the great Horse-Shoe
Fall, marking the hurried water gathering strength as it
approached the verge, yet seeming, too, to pause before
it shot into the gulf below ; to gaze from tfas river's level
up at the torrent as it came streaming down ; to climb
the neighbouring heights and watch it through the trees,
and see the wreathing water in the rapids hurrying on to
take its fearful plunge ; to linger in the shadow of the

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

. 1
t

solemn rocks three miles below, watcliing the river as,
stirred by no visible cause, it heaved and eddied, and
awoke the echoes, being troubled yet, far down beneath
the surface, by its giant leap ; to have Niagara before
me, lighted by the sun and by the moon, red in the day's
decline and gray as evening slowly fell upon it ; to look
upon it every day, and wake up in the night and bear its
ceaseless voice : this was enough.

"I think in every quiet season now. Still do those
waters roll and leap, and roar and tumble all day long ;
still are the rainbows spanning them a hundred feet be-
low ; still, when the sun is on them, do they shine and
glow like molten gold ; still, when the day is gloomy, do
they fall like snow, or seem to crumble away like the
front of a great chalk cli£f, or roll down the rock like
dense white smoke. But always does the mighty stream
appear to die as it comes down, and always from its un-
fathomable grave arises that tremendous ghost of spray
and mist which is never laid ; which has haunted this
place with the same dread solemnity since darkness
brooded on the deep, and that first flood before the
Deluge— light— came rushing on creation at the word of
God."

(17)

But no words, however appropriate— no combination
of ideas, however felicitous, can do justice to Niagara ;
and those who are wending their way thither will need
BO description : yet it is satisfactory to know the feelings
and thoughts of those who have gone before us.

Table Rock is no longer the extensive platform that it
once was, large portions of it having fallen from time to
time. It overhangs the terrible caldron close to the
Uorse-Shoe Fall, and the view from it, as already described,
is most sublime. In 1818, a mass of 160 feet long and 40
feet wide broke off and fell into the boiling flood ; and in
1828 three immense masses fell with a shock like an earth-
quake. Again, in 1829, another fragment fell, and in
1850 a portion of about 200 feet in length and 100 feet
thick. On one of those occasions, some forty or fifty per-
sons had been standing on the rock a few minutes before
it fell I The work of demolition still goes on, for another
portion of Table Bock fell in 1857. In 1867, a large
crack or seam having formed around it near the road, it
was deemed unsafe, and the Canadian Government caused
it to be blasted away, and now all that remains of the
once famous Table Rock is a huge mass of rock at the
edge of the river below the bank.

'.;;'//■ /,'«•■■■

no combiuatioii
;ice to Niagara ;
lither will need
aow the feelings
)re UB.

platform that it

en from time to

on close to tlie

ready described,

feet long and 40

ig flood ; and in

ck like an eartb-

gnt fell, and in

th and 100 feet

)rty or fifty per-

minutes before

on, for another

1 1867, a large

lear the road, it

ernment caused

remains of the

of rock at the

HORSE SHOE FALL.

fc^-

PALLS OF NIAGARA.

THE MAID or THE MIST.

At one time a little steamer was wout to start from
he landing, close to the Suspension Bridge, two miles
below Niagara, and, ascending the river, passed the

merican Falls, and penetrated boldly into the dense
loud of mist close to the foot of the Horse-Shoe Fall.

he spectator standing on the verge of Table Rock, and
looking down, might then have seen the little steamer
Ibaffling with the stormy waters. So completely was she
enveloped in the mist, that waterproof garments were
provided for those who chose to remain on her deck. The
iiteamer was built expressly for this brief voyage, and is
an excellent boat of 170 tons burden, with an engine of
above 100 horse-power.

The owners of this little steamer having found her an
unprofitable speculation, she was sold to a Montreal firm
with the condition that she should be safely navigated
through the rapids and the whirlpool (see p. 30). This
dangerous experiment was undertaken by J. R. Robinson,
with but two assistants. The danger was considered so
great that the brave men who undertook it could not get
any office to insure their lives for a cent. It was, how-
(17)

ever, accomplished in safety, with no other injury to the
vessel than the falling of her funnel on the deck, which
occurred just before entering the whirlpool, at the river's
narrowest point, where it is estimated that the torrent
rushes at a speed of twenty-five miles an hour. It was
a wonderful feat of navigation, and created intense
excitement for miles around.

THE HORSE-SHOE FALL.

The view here is awfully grand. As we gaze upwards
at the frowning cliff that seems tottering to its fall, and
pass under the thick curtain of water — so near that it
seems as if we could touch it— and hear the hissing spray,
and are stunned by the deafening roar that issues from
the misty vortex at our feet, an indescribable feeling of
awe steals over us, and we are more than ever impressed
with the tremendous magnificence of Niagara. Behind
our narrow footpath the precipice of the Horse-Shoe
Fall rises perpendicularly to a height of 90 feet ; at our
feet the cliff descends about 70 feet into a turmoil of
bursting foam ; in front is the liquid curtain which,
though ever passing onward, never unveils this wildest
of Nature's caverns.

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

i'i

1 1

' i

VIEW BELOW TABLE BUCK.

We do nr-t ran much danger in going under the Falls
if we are moderately careful, and hundreds of ladies do
so every year. But accidents have happened more than
once to reckless travellers. To the nervous and the timid
we would say, Go under the Falls by all means, and fear
not. To the daring and the bold we would say, Go, but be-
ware. At the same time it is right to mention that portions
of Table Rock are still expected to fall every year, so that
those who go under the Falls must run the risk of this.

The volume of water that gushes over the Horse-Shoe
Fall is enormous. It is estimated that the sheet is fully
20 feet thick in the centre, an estimate which was corro-
borated in a singular manner in 1829. A ship named
the Detroit, having been condemned, was bought and
sent over the Falls. On board were put a live bear, a
deer, a buffalo, and several smaller animals. The vessel
was almost knocked to pieces in the rapids, but a large
portion of her hull went over entire. She drew 18 feet
water, but did not strike the cliff as she took the awful
plunge.

PROSPECT HOUSE

Stands in the rear of Table Rock. The view from the
I summit of this building is magnificent.

(17)

ider the Falls
i of ladies du
led more than
and the timid
ans, and fear
y, Go, but bt-
1 that portions

year, so that
risk of this,
e Horse-Shoe
sheet is fully
!ch was corro-
L ship named
I bought and
a live bear, a
The vessel
i, but a large

drew 18 feet
K>k the awful

iew from the

■HH[t SlSTtBS X COAT ISLAND fROM CANADA SlDl

poin
the

T
the
islai
whi

F
was
auii
boai
rive
shoi
for
hina
of 1
des
lik(
Sh<
isla
wit

FALLS OF mAGARA.

A fbw hundred yards above Prospect House there is a
point from which we obtain a fine view of the rapids and
the islands uanied

THE THREE SISTERS.

They are seen in the distance lying close together at
the head of Goat Island. These hitherto inaccessible
islands are now connected by substantial foot bridges, from
which the grandest view of the rapids is to be obtained.

From one of these Sisters a gentleman named Allen
was rescued by the gallant Mr. J. R. Robinson in the
summer of 1841. Mr. Allen ' .iJ started alone in his
boat for the village of Chippewa, nd in the middle of the
river broke one of his oars. Being unable to gain the
shore, he endeavoured with the remaining oar to steer
for tiie head of Goat Island, but the rapid current swept
him past this point. As he approached the outer island
of the Three Sisters, he steered with the cool energy of
despair toward it and leaped ashore, while his boat sprang
like a lightening flash down the rapid and over the Horse-
Shoe Fall. For two days Mr. Allen remained on the
island, and then, fortunately, succeeded in making a fire
with some matches he happened to have in his pocket.
(17)

Crowds of people assembled to assist in and witness the
rescue, which was accomplished by Robinson, who, hav-
ing managed to pass a rope from island to island, readied
him with a skiff.

\ t

■

.) I

FALLS OP NIAGARA.

Another narrow escape was made here by a father and
son in the year 1850. The son, a boy of ten years of age,
was paddling his father — who was drunk at the time —
over to their home on Grand Island. The father was
unable to guide the frail canoe, which was carried into
the rapids, and descended with fearful rapidity towards
the Falls. The wretched father could do nothing to save
himself; but the gallant boy struggled with the energy
of a hero, and succeeded in forcing the canoe between
Goat Island and the Three Sisters. Here they were in
imminent danger of passing over the little cascade be-
tween these Islands, but, providentially, as they neared
it a wave upset the canoe and left them struggling in the
water. The plac« was shallow, the boy gained a footing,
and seizing his father by the collar, dragged him to the
shore, where hundreds of anxious spectators received
them with shouts of joy.

Oull Island is a small island just above the Horse-Shoe
Fall. It has never been trodden by man.

About two miles higher up the river is

THE BURNING SPRING.

This curious spring is very interesting.
(17)

The water,

being charged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, takes fire
when a light is applied to it, and burns with a pale
bluish flame.

The Battle cj Chippewa was fought in this neighbour-
hood on the 5th July 1814.

In order to gratify the visitor's natural desire to see
Niagara from the most striking points cf view, we have
hurried him somewhat abruptly to the Canada side. We
will now retrace our steps to the ferry, and crossing over,
visit Goat Island and its neighbourhood.

The flrst object that claims our attention as we return
down the left bank of the river is

THE MUSEUM,

Which stands at the top of the bank near to Table Rock,
and is well worth visiting. It is arranged so as to repre-
sent a forest scene, and contains a fine collection of birds,
beasts, and fishes, besides a camera-obscura. Charge for
admission, 25 cents.

A short distance below this house a terrible accident
occurred in 1844. A lady named Miss Martha K.
Rngg fell over the bank, and descending a depth of 115
feet, was dashed on the sharp rocks below. Slie wab

i-'UihinUiiriii:

»I»(.AK.\ HI VI R lU I 11* ' Hf. I 6 I 1 '

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

alive when picked up, bat expired a few hours after-
wards.
Our Engraviog of the

AMERICAN FALLS

Exhibits the view as seen from the Canadian side directly
opposite. Behind the Falls are seen the splendid Ame-
rican Hotels, the Cataract House, the International, &c.,
with the woods extending towards Point View. On the
right are the Centre Fall and the wooden stairs leading
to the Cave of the Winds.
From this position we have also a fine prospect of

NIAGARA RIVER BELOW THE FALLS.

Our Engraving, taken from a photograph, gives an
excellent and correct representation of this view. The
swollen and agitated stream hurries onward, after its
mighty leap, between steep cliffs, clothed on the summit
with wood. On the left of the Picture we see the road
winding along the top of the bank towards the splendid
hotel named Clifton House; groupsofpilgrims to the shrine
of the mighty Cataract of the West enliven the scene; and
perchance the ferry-boat shoots out from its moorings as
(17)

we pass, and dances like a cork upon the troubled
waters.

A walk of about half an hour along the bank of the
river brings us to Clifton House, a magnificent hotel, in
the immediate vicinity of which is the ground where the
Battte of Lundy Lane was fought. It occupies a com-
manding position on the top of the bank, at a short dis-
tance from the Ferry Landing- Place. The view of the
American and Horse-Shoe Falls from this hotel is ex-
ceedingly fine, and the accommodation is excellent. The
gardens around it are a great improvement, and it has
concert rooms and large public saloons. The Erie and
Ontario Railroad, which passes close to it, connects at
Chippewa, a village about three miles up the river, with
the steamer to Buffalo, and runs down the river to the vil-
lage of Niagara, at its mouth, whence the Lake Ontario
steamers convey passengers to the River St. Lawrence.

Having thus cast a rapid glance at the salient points on
the Canada side, we may either continue our walk for a mile
further, to the Suspension Bridge, or recross the Ferry to
inspect the Falls more narrowly. Choosing the latter course,
we cross in the boat, re-ascend the inclined-plane rail-
way, hurry through the Grove, and cross the bridge to—

)

PALLS OF NIAGARA.

BATH ISLAND.

Here was a bathin<T establishment, but it is not
How ia operation. Here may be purchased any amount
of Indian curiosities. The largest paper-mill in the
United States is on this island. It belongs to L. C.
Woodruff, of Buffalo. A little hitiher up are two smaller
islets named Ship and Bri{; Islands. The former is also
named Lovers' Retreat, and was connected with Bath
Island by a slender bridge, which was washed away by
ice and high water. Looking down the river, we see
several small islets, most of which aie more or less con-
nected with thrilling incidents of danger, escape, or
death; for graphic details of which we refer the traveller
to the guides, who are learned in local tradition.

Crossing the bridge at the other end of Bath Island,
we reach

GOAT OR IRIS ISLAND

This ibiand is half a mile long, by a quarter broad, and

contains about 70 acres. It divides the Falls, is 330

yards wide, and is heavily wooded. In 1770 a man of

tlve name of Stedmau placed some goats here to pasture ■*

U7)

hence the name. Its other name, Iris, is derived from
the number of beautiful rainbows that are so frequently
seen near it. It is the property of the Porter family,
and to them the public are indebted for the facilities
which are afforded them in visiting the Falls. Qoat
Island was visited long before the bridges were con-
structed, but the visitors were not numerous, the risk
l)eiug very grea|k The dates 1771, 1772, 1779, under the
names of several strangers, were found cut in a beech-
tree near the Horse-Shoe Fall.

Three paths diverge from the house on your left, in
which Indian curiosities are sold; the one to the left
leads to the head of the island; the centre road cuts
right across it; and that on the right conducts to the
Falls. Let us follow the last mentioned through the
trees that line the margin of the rapids. In a few
minutes we reach a spot named Hog's Back, from which
we have a good view of the Central and American Falls
and the river below, rushing on as if in exultation after
its terrific leap. Dr. Hungerford of West Troy was
killed just under this point in 1889, by the falling of a
portion of the cliff.

Three Profiles, formed by the Falls in this oeighbour-

finu'hs .\in"if'*it-rt!

NIACARIk RIVER LO OKI N C TOWA RD5 LAK( ONTARIO.

r t

>■<!

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

hood, are pointed out, but they exist chiefly iu the ima-

giuation !

That small island to our right, on the verge of the

Falls, is

LUNA ISLAND;

So called because it is the best point from Uliich to view
the beautiful lunar bow. A narrow bridge connects
this island with Goat Island.

The lunar bow is only seen for a short time in the
month, when the moon is full and sufficiently high in
the heavens.

The solar bow is always visible when the sun shines
on the Falls.

It is said by some that Luna Island trembles ; which
ia not improbable. •

A very melancholy accident occurred at the northern
extremity of this island in the year 1849. The family of
Mr. Deforest of Buffalo visited the Falls on the 21st
June of that year, along with a young man named Charles
Addington. They were about to leave this island when
Mr. Addington playfully seized Annette, the little
daughter of Mr. Deforest, in bis arms, and held her
over the edge of the bank, exclaiming, " I am going to

throw yon in." A sudden impulse of fear caused the
child to bound from bis grasp and fall into the rushinf:;
stream. With a loud cry of horror the young man sprang
in to save her, and ere the stricken parents could utter
a cry, they both went over the Falls t The next day the
mangled remains of the child were discovered in the Cave
of the Winds, but Addington's body was not found for
several days afterwards.

THE CENTRE FALL,

Over which we pass in our return to Goat Island, although
a mere ribbon of white water when seen from a short dis-
tance in contrast with the Great Falls, is by no means un.
worthy of notice. It is 100 feetwide, and is a very graceful
sheet of water. Proceeding along the road a short dis-
tance, we come to

Bl DOLE'S STAIRS.
These were erected in 1823 by 'Mr. Biddle, president of
the United States Bank, for the purpose of enabling
visitors to descend the perpendicular precipice. The
stairs are firmly secured to the cliff, and are said to be
quite safe. They are 80 feet high. The total descent
from the top of the bank to the bottom is 185 feet.

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

■II,'

Between this point and the Centre Fall is the spot
where the celebrated Sam Patch made his famous leaps.
Sam made two leaps in 1829. A long ladder was placed
at the foot of the rock and fastened with ropes in such
a manner that the top projected over the water. A plat-
form was then laid from the top of the ladder to the
edge of the bank above. Hundreds of thousands of
spectators crowded every point within sight of the place
on both shores, eager to behold the extraordinary spec-
tacle of a man " jumping over the Falls." Sam walked
along the giddy platform, made his bow, and went down,
feet first, 97 feet into the river.

Not content with this achievement, Sam Patch after-
wards made a higher leap at the Genesee Falls. Again,
at the same place, he made another jump, from the
height of 125 feet ! That was his last. The poor fellow
never rose again, and his body has never been found.

It is frequently asked by visitors where the intrepid
EUrndin crossed the river on his rope. In 1859 his rope
was stretched from bank to bank about one mile below
the Falls. The length of rope at this place was about
1200 feet. In 1860 he removed his rope to a point about
200 feet below the Old Suspension Bridge. The width
(17)

here was 900 feet. It was at this point he performed

his wonderful feats before the Prince of Wales. Since

then two persons, Favini and Harry Leslie, have per*

formed similar feats.

Before descending Biddle's Stairs, let us pass on until

we reach the extremity of the island, and cross the bridge

to the

TERRAPIN TOWER.

This tower occupies a singular and awful position. A
few scattered masses of rock lie on the very brink of the
Qreat Fall, seeming as if unable to maintain their posi-
tion against the tremendous rush of water. Upon these
rocks the tower is built ! It was erected in 1833 by
Judge Porter ; and from the summit we obtain the most
magnificent view that can be conceived— the rapids above
rolling tumultuously towards you — the green water of
the mighty Falls at your feet— below you the hissing
caldron of spray, and the river with its steep banks be-
yond — in fact, the whole range of the Falls themselves,
and the world of raging waters around them, are seen
from this commanding point of view. The tower is 45
feet high.

The bridge leading to this tower ii osoally wet with

■i Ma* *'w^' < ii|iff Ill ii »^^a^»^^

TERRAPIN TOWER* HORSE SHOE FALL FROM COAT ISLAND

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

spray, so that we must be careful in crossing. In 1852
a gentleman fell from this bridge, and was carried to the
edge of the Fall ; fortunately he stuck between two rocks,
and was rescued by two Americans, who threw lines
towards him, which he fastened round his body, and was
thus drawn ashore.

A timber formerly projecting over the dread abyss was
the usual evening promenade of the eccentric Francis
Abbot. In 1852 two enormous pieces of the precipice
here, reaching from the top to the bottom, broke off and
fell with a crash like thunder.

While gazing at the sublime sight here, and taking in

at a single sweep the whole scene of the glorious Falls of

Niagara, let us pause a while and reflect upon the sad

fate of

FRANCIS ABBOT,

THE BBBMIT Or THB FALLS.

In the month of June 1829 a tall, gentlemanly, but
haggard-looking younfp man, made his appearance at the
village of the Falls. He brought with him a large port-
folio and several books and musical instruments. For a
few weeks he paid daily and nightly visits to the most
interesting points of Niagara, and at length became so
(17)

fascinated with the beauty and sublimity of the scene,
that he resolved to take up his abode there altogether !
No one knew whence the young stranger came. Those
who conversed with him asserted that he was talented
and engaging in his manners and address; but he was
not communicative, and shunned the company of man.
At the end of a few weeks he applied for permission to
build for himself a cottage on one of the Three Sisters ;
but circumstances preventing this, he took up his resi-
dence in an old cottage on Goat Island. Here the young
hermit spent his days and nights in solitary contempla-
tion of the great cataract; and when winter came, the
dwellers on the mainland saw the twinkle of his wood
fire, and listened wonderingly to the sweet tones of music
that floated over the troubled waters and mingled with
the thunder of the Falls.

This wonderful recluse seemed never to rest. At all
hours of day and night he might be seen wandering
round the object of his adoration. Not content with
gazing at the rapids, he regularly bathed in the turbulent
waters, and the bathing-place of Francis Abbot is still
pointed out to visitors. At the Terrapin Bridge there
is a single beam of timber which projected its tremulous

FALLS OP NIAGARA.

end about ten feet over the roaring flood. Along this
the hermit was in the habit of walking. He did so
without the smallest sign of fear — with a firm, bold step,
proceeding to the very end, turning on his heel and walk-
ing back again. One day in June 1831 he went to bathe in
the river below the Falls. Not long afterwards his clothes
were found still lying on the bank, but Francis Abbot
was gone. The waters which he had so recklessly dared
had claimed him as their own at last. His body was
found ten days afterwards at the mouth of the river,
whence it was conveyed to Niagara and buried close to
the thundering Fall he loved so well.

Returning to BideUe'i Stairs, let us descend, and tak-
ing the road to the left, go view the

HORSESHOE FALL FROM BELOW GOAT ISLAND.

The sight is terrific. The frowning cliff seems about
to fall on us, and we are stunned by the roar of the
water as it falls headlong on the broken rocks, bursts
into white foam, and re-ascends in clouds of spray. Ter-
rapin Bridge and Tower, now diminished by distance,
seem about to be swept over the Fall, above the edge of
which we see the trees of Canada. Portions of the rock
(17)

fall here occasionally, so that the passage is not altogether
unattended with danger.

Returning to the foot of the stairs, we follow the road
to the right until we reach the famous

CAVE OF THE WINDS.
It is situated at the foot of the rock between Goat and
Luna Islands, and is considered by some to be one of the
finest and most wonderful sights on the American side.
Here it is necessary to put on waterproof dresses and
obtain a guide — both of which are at all times at our
command. The cave has been formed by the action or
the water on the soft substratum of the precipice, which
has been washed away and the limestone rock left arch-
ing overhead 30 feet beyond the base. In front the trans-
parent Falls form a beautiful curtain. In consequence
of the tremendous pressure on the atmosphere, this cave
is filled with perpetual storms, and the war of couflictini
elements is quite chaotic. A beautiful rainbow, quite
circular in form, quivers amid the driving spray when
the sun shines. The cave is 100 feet wide, 130 feet high,
and upwards of 80 feet deep. Along the floor of this
remarkable cavern the spray is hurled with considerabla

FALLS OP NIAGARA.

violence, so that it strikes the walls and curls upwards
along the roof, thus causing the rough turmoil which has
procured for this place its title of the Care of the Winds.
It is much visited by ladies as well as gentlemen, and a
neat building has been erected on the top of the high
bank at the approach to the Biddle Stairs, which is
divided into dressing-rooms for persons visiting the cave.

HEAD OF GOAT ISLAND

The road runs quite round it. Turning to the right,
in the direction of Terrapin Bridge, we observe that the
rock is wearing away fast here. In 1843 an enormous
mass fell from the precipice with a tremendous crash,
and the rock lies near the foot of the stairs.

Passing on along the edge of the rapids, we come to
the Three Sisters (already described) ; and here, between
M088 Island and the shore, is a small but beautiful Fall,
named the Hermit's Cascade. Hither the unfortunate
Abbot was wont to repair daily to enjoy a shower-bath
of Nature's own constructing. Proceeding onward, we
reach the head of Iris Island, and the cottage in which
Abbot lived before removing to bis last residence, at
Point View.
(17)

In June of 1854 Mr. Robinson performed a daring feat
here. A sand-scow, or flat-bottomed barge, having
broken loose from its moorings, lodged on the rocks near
the head of the island. There was property on board
which Mr. Robinson o£fered to save. Embarking with
his son in a skiff, be shot out into the rapid, and was
carried with terrible swiftness down towards the scow,
upon which the son sprang as they flew past, and very
cleverly fastened the skiff to it. Having obtained the
goods for which they ran so great risk, the fearless pair
pushed off once more, and flew like an arrow on .the
surging billows towards the Three Sisters. Every one
thought their doom was sealed, for they were flying to-
wards the small cascade, to go over which would have
been certain death. But on its very verge they swept
adroitly into an eddy, and succeeded in gaining the second
Sister. Here they carried their skiff to the foot of the
island, where they launched it, and, plying tbeir oars
with vigour, made a bold sweep down the rapids, and
gained the shore of Gcat Island in safety.

The view from the head of Ooat Island is very fine, the
wild river and its environs being seen for a considerable
distance. Navy Island, celebrated in the history of

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

Border warfare ; the site of old Fort Schlosser on the
American side ; the town of Chippewa on the Canada
shore; Grand Island, &c., are all visible from this point.
As we gaze at the wild rapid, we wonder at the hardi-
hood of those who ventured to descend to the spot on
which we now stand, before the bridge was built. Yet
this was occasionally done, at s.ach risk, in Indian
canoes. It is said that any one who falls into the rapids
a mile above the Falls is hurried to almost certain de-
struction ; and there are many melancholy instances of
the kind.

A few years ago an Indian attempted, while in a state
of partial intoxication, to cross the river iu his canoe.
He was drawn into the rapids, and, despite his utmost
efiforts, failed to reach the shore. Knowing that his
doom was fixed, he took a draught of spirits, and then,
lying down at full length in the canoe, vas hurled over
the Falls into eternity !

In proceeding down the island we pass a spot where
there are several graves, out of which human remains
have been dug. They were found in a sitting position,
and it is supposed they were those of the ancient Indian
warriors who first owned the land around the Falls.
(17)

NIAGARA IN WINTER.

In all its phases this wondrous cataract is sublime, but
in winter, when its dark-green waters contrast with the
pure white snow, and its frosty vapour spouts up into
the chill atmosphere from a perfect chaos of ice and foam,
there is a perfection of savage grandeur about it which
cannot be realized in the green months of summer.

At this season Ice is the ruling genius of the spot. The
spray which bursts from the thundering cataract encrusts
every object with a coat of purest dazzling white. The
trees bend gracefully under its weight, as if in silent
homage to the Spirit of the Palls. Every twig is covered,
every bough is laden ; and those parts of the rocks and
trees on which the delicate frost-work will not lie, stand
out in bold contrast. At the foot of the Falls block rises
on block in wild confusion, and the cold, dismal-looking
water, hurries its green floods over the brink, and roars
hoarsely as it rushes into the vortex of dazzling white
below. The trees on Goat Island seem partially buried;
the bushes around have almost disappeared ; the honsei
seem to sink under their ponderous coverings of white ;
every rail is edged with it, every point and pinnacle is

Terrapin Tower

NIAGARA IN VIIINTER FROM CANADA SIDE

BALLS OF NIAGARA.

capped with it; and the dark form of the Terrapin
Tower stands like a lone sentinel guarding this 'Rcene of
magnificent desolation.

When the sun shines, all becomes radiant with glitter-
ing gems ; and the mind is almost overwhelmed ^ith the
combined effects of ezcessiTe brilliancy and ext^essive
grandeur. But such a scene cannot be described. '•

" From age to age — in winter's frost, or Bummer's sultry
beam.
By day, by night, without a pause — thy waves with loud

acclaim,
!ji ceaseless sounds, have still proclaimed the great Eternal's
name."

Our View is taken from the Canadian side, a short dis-
tance above Prospect House.

During the winter immense masses of ice descend the
river from Lake Brie, and form an Ice Bridge between
the Falls and New Iris Bridge. Hundreds of foot pas-
sengers cross this bridge daring the months of February
and March.

NIAGARA BY MOONLIGHT.
!. %-<'si. rain to attempt a description of this magical

;;?3

scene. Every one knows the peculiar softness and the
sweet influence of moonlight shed over a lovely scene.
Let not the traveller fail to visit Qoat Island when the
moon shines high and clear, and view Niagara by her
pale, mysterious light.

LEQENit OF THE WHITE CANOE.

In days of old, long before the deep solitudes of the
West were disturbed by white men, it was the custom of
the Indian warriors of the forest to assemble at the
Great Cataract and offer a human sacrifice to the Spirit
of the Falls. The offering consisted of a white canoe
full of ripe fruits and blooming flowers ; which was
paddled over the terrible cliff by the fairest girl of the
tribe who had just arrived at the age of womanhood. It
was counted an honour by the tribe to whose lot it fell to
make the costly sacrifice ; and even the doomed maiden
deemed it a high compliment to be selected to guide the
white canoe over the Falls. But in the stoical heart of
the red man ther* are tender feelings which cannot be
subdued, and cords which snap if strained too roughly.

The only daughter of a chief of the Seneca Indians was
chosen aa a laerificial offering to the Spirit of Niagara.

4' n

~ql^~

11 '■*
i

FALLS OP NIAGARA.

Her mother had been slain by a hostile tribe. Her
father was the bravest among the warriors, and his stem
brow seldom relaxed save to his blooming child, who was
now the only joy to which he clung on earth. When the
lot fell on his fair child, no symptom of feoling crossed
his countenance. In the pride of Indian endurance he
crushed down the feelings that tore his bosom, and no
tear trembled in his dark eye as the preparations for the
sacrifice went forward. At length the day arrived ; it
faded into night as the savage festivities and rejoicing
proceeded ; then the moon arose and silvered the cloud of
mist that rose from out the turmoil of Niagara ; and now
the white canoe, laden with its precions freight, glided
from the bank and swept out into the dread rapid from
which escape is hopeless. The young girl calmly steered
her tiny bark towards the centre of the stream, while
frantic yells and shouts arose from the forest. Suddenly
another white canoe shot forth upon the stream, and,
under the powerful impulse of the Seneca chief, flew like
an arrow to destruction. It overtook the first ; the eyes
of father and child met in one last gaze of love, and
then they plunged together over the thundering cataract
iuto eternity !
(17»

OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
OF THE FALLS.

1 Falls of Niagara will doubtless occupy nearly all
the \ : e and en^^ross all the iu-»erest of visitors; never-
theU: V .re several objects in the vicinity which are
wort 1,' y' jiocial attention. In enumerating these, we
wiU adopv lue plan of beginning at the Cataract and
descending to Lake Ontario; afterwards we will describe
the river from Lake Erie to the Falls. The first object
of interest below the Cataract is

THE NIAGARA SUSPENSION BRIDGE,
Which spans the river about two miles below the Falls.
We may mention, in passing, that there are two caves —
Catlin's Cave and the Oiant's Cave, between the Bridge
and the Falls, on the American side ; and Bender's Cave
on the Canada side. They are, however, ^ardly worthy
of notice.

The Suspension Bridge is a noble and stupendous
structure. It is the work of Mr. John A. Roebling of
Trenton, New Jersey, and was begun in 1852. Formerly
the bridge here was of much smaller dimensions. It wan

NIAGARA Ctsr IRON BRIDGE

.**

b(
ii
A
d(
w
fo
to
cl
fr
ot
b)
tl
fr

iti

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

begun in 1849 by Mr. Charles Elliot, who first crossed it
iu an iron basket, slung under a single cable of iron wire.
Afterwards many people crossed in this way, being let
down the incline and drawn up on the opposite side by a
windlass. While six workmen were employed on the
foot-path of this brid|;e, a terrific gale burst upon them,
tore the planks away, and left four of their number
clinging to two thin wires, which swung fearfully to and
fro, while the whirling rapids raged beneath them. The
other two escaped on fragments of board to the shore. A
brave comrade descended in the basket, during a lull in
the gale, and by means of a ladder rescued his companions
from their awful position. The basket is still to be seen
on the Canada side.

The present bridge is of enormous strength, and forms
a communication between Canada and the States, over
which the carriages of the Qreat Western and the New
York Central Railroads, and oars of every description,
run without causing the slightest vibration. The cost of
ito construction was $500,000 (more than £100,000
sterling); and steam carriages first crossed it on the 8th
March 1855. The road for carriages is suspended 28 feet
below the railway line.
(17)

The following statistics of this enormous bridge wi]l be
interesting : — The height of the towers on the American
side is 88 feet ; those on the Canada side are 78 feet high.
Length of bridge is 800 feet ; width, 24 feet ; height
above the river, 250 feet. There are four enormous wire
cables of about 10 inches diameter, which contain about
4000 miles of wire ; and the ultimate capacity of the four
cables is about 12,400 tons. The total weight of the
bridge is 800 tons ; and it combines, in an eminent de-
gree, strength witi' elegance of structure. Our Engrav-
ing is from a photograph.

NEW SUSPENSION BRIDGE AT NIAGARA FALLS.

The New Suspension Bridge over the Niagara River,
now about being completed (November 1868), is located
in full view of the Qreat Cataraiit, and will take rank
with any similar structure in the world for the engineer-
ing skill and commercial enterprise exhibited in its con-
struction. It is designed more especially for foot pas-
sengers and light carriages, and will be found eminently
serviceable in facilitating the sight-seeing which attracts
such throngs of visitors to the Falls at all seasons— but
chiefly during the summer and the two first months of

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

autumn. Heretofore the means of access to the Canada
side from the village of Niagara Falls in the State of New
York, has been by conveyance in hacks across the Bail-
road Bridge two miles below, involving a long and some-
what expensive ride. The New Bridge offers a passage
from the American to the opposite shore in a walk of ten
minutes from the principal hotels, with an opportunity
for views of the Falls and the surrounding scenery of the
most wonderful and charming description.

The elements of this new and splendid work may be
gathered from the following details : —

The bridge is supported upon timber towers, having a
quadrilateral base of 28 feet, and converging to a square
of 4 feet at the top, firmly bolted and braced, and stand-
ing upon the solid rock. The American tower is 100 feet
in height ; the Canadian, 105. The space from centre
to centre of the towers measures 1268 feet 4 inches. It
is 1190 feet from one wall of the river to the other. The
suspended roadway is 1240 feet in length. The distance
between the anchorages is 1828 feet; and from one anchor
to the other 1888 feet. This shows it to be the longest
suspension bridge in the world. The elevation of the
bridge at the centre above the surface of the Niagara
(17)

River is from 175 to 190 feet, according to the general
level of the lakes ; the depth of water in the channel
being 250 feet.

The two cables from which the bridge is suspended
have an extreme length, as already stated, of nearly 1900
feet. They are composed of wire ropes, in number seven,
each rope consisting of seven strands, and embracing
133 No. 9 wires. The cables thus consist of 931 wires.
The ropes weigh 54 pounds per furlong of 6 feet. The
cables are securely embedded at the extremities— on the
American side 18 feet below the surface in heavy masonry,
and on the other side in an excavation quarried out of the
solid rock. Each of the ropes is capable of sustaining a
weight of 120 tons, and their united strength is equal to
1680 tons. The over-fioor stays, 48 in number, also
passing over the towers and fastened in the common
anchorages, will sustain an additional weight of 1320
tons. The combined strength of the cables.iutd stays is
thus found to be equal to the support of a load of 3000
tons, or 6,000,000 pounds. The weight of the bridge
and its appurtenances is estimated at 250 tons— less than
one-twelfth of the sustaining power depending from the
towers ; 3000 people may be at once distributed over the

<^m

SUSPENSION BHIDCE i (iAPIOS ABOVf. THt FALLS

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

bridge, without in the slightest degree affecting its sup-
porting capability.

The roadway of this bridge is composed of two stringers
or chords, 10 feet apart, upon which are laid the cross
ties, or needle-beams, 6 feet apart. The chords are
further strengthened by channel bars of iron running the
whole length on the under side, and so attached as to
form a continuous plate. In addition, a stiff railing,
5 feet high, is erected at oje sides, and so bolted to the
chords and floor- beams as to serve as a protection against
casualties, as well as to resist any strain from the wind,
or to the transit of vehicles. The flooring consists of a
double course of Norway pine, each an inch and a half
thick. The roadway is 10 feet in width, sufficient to
admit of the transit of foot passengers without obstruc-
tion from the passage of carriages in one direction — the
latter alternating from each side of the river at periods of
fifteen minutes.

A very fine view of the bridge— its cables, stays, nine
hundred suspenders and suspender rods, and lofty
towers — will be afforded from points of observation below,
on the American side ; and above, on the Canadian. Its
great length, symmetrical form, graceful curve, and obvi-
07)

ous strength, cannot fail to strike every beholder with
equal surprise and pleasure. Whilst this structure will
increase the facilities for the inspection and study of the
great natural wonders displayed here in such grandeur
and magnificence, it will become of itself an object of
curious interest, and add still another to the attractions
which fill the minds of all observers with admiration.

Tolls.— BO cents for two-horse carriages, including the
driver; 85 cents for one-horse carriage; 25 cents for each
passenger in carriage or on foot.

LUNDY'S LANE BATTLE-GROUND
Is about a mile and a half from the Falls, near to Cliftou
House. This great battle between the Americans and
the British was fought on the 25th July 1814. The
number of killed and wounded on both sides was about
equal, and both parties, as a matter of course, claim the
victory I

DrummondvtUe, in the immediate vicinity, is named
after General Drummond, then commander of the British
forces.

Niagara City stands on either side of the Suspension
Bridge, but it is not as yet deserving of the title of a city.

PALLS or NIAGARA.

THE WHIRLPOOL

About three miles below the Falls the river takes an
abrupt turn, and shoots with great violence against the
cliff on the Canada side, forming what is called the
Whirlpool. Our Engraving is from a drawing by the
graphic pencil of Mr. Friend. The set :ry around this
caldron is exceedingly wild.

A short distance fui-ther on are the Mineral Springt,
sometimes called the Belle Vue Fountain.

The Rapid* just below the Whirlpool are very fine.

Less than half a mile further down the river, on the
American side, is

THE DEVIL'S HOLE,
A terribly gloomy and savage chasm in the bank of the
river, between one and two hundred feet deep. Over-
hanging this dark cavern is a perpendicular precipice,
from the top of which falls a small stream named The
fllondy Run. The stream obtained its name from the
following tragical incident: —

Daring the French war in 1763, a detachment of Bri-
tish soldiers (consisting of, iome say one hundred, some
117)

fifty men), was forwarded with a large supply of provi-
sions from Fort Niagara to Fort Schlosser. The Seneca
Indians, then in the pay of the French, resolved to lay
an ambuscade for them, and chose this dark spot for
their enterprise. The savages, who were numerous,
scattered themselves along the hill-sides, and lay con-
cealed among the bushes until the British came up and had
passed the precipice ; then, uttering a terrific yell, they
descended like a whirlwind, and, before the soldiers had
time to form, poured into their confused ranks a wither-
ing volley of bullets. The little stream ran red with
blood, and the whole party— soldiers, waggons, horses,
and drivers — were hurled over the cliff into the yawning
gulf below, and dashed to pieces on the rocks. Only two
escaped to tell the tale ; the one a soldier, who returned
during the night to Fort Niagara; the other a Mr.
Stedman, who dashed his horse through the ranks of
his enemies, and escaped amid a shower of bullets.

BROCK'S MONUMENT,
Stands on the Queenston Heights, Canada side, just
above the village of that name. This monument was
raised in commemoration of the British poneral, Sir

!?'.»

WHIRLPOOL lieAR NIAGARA.

i'f

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

Isaac Brock, who fell in the sanguinary action fought on
this spot on the 13th October 1612. His remains, and
those of his aid-de-camp, Colonel John M'Donald, who
died of wounds received in the same battle, are buried
here.

The first monument was completed in 1826, and was
blown up in 1840 by a person named Lett, who was
afterwards imprisoned for this dastardly act. The pres-
ent handsome shaft was erected in 1853. Its height is
185 feet ; the base is 40 feet square by 30 feet high ; the
shaft is of freestone, fluted, 75 feet high and 30 feet in
circumference, surmounted by a Corinthian capital, on
which stands a statue of the gallant general.

The view from this monument is most gorgeous. The
eye wanders 'with untiring delight over the richest
imaginable scene of woodland and water. Just below is
the village of Queenston, and on the opposite shore is
Lewiston. In the midst flows the now tranquil Biver
Niagara— calm and majestic in its recovered serenity.
In the far distance, on either side, stretches the richly-
wooded landscape, speckled with villas and cottages. At
the month of the river are the town of Niagara on the
Canadian side, and Youngston on the American. Its
(17)

entrance is guarded on the latter side by Fort Niagara,
and on the former hjFort Massasauga. The whole view
is terminated by the magnificent sheet of Lake Ontario,
which stretches away like a flood of light to the horizon.

QUEENSTON
Is a small picturesque town, and worthy of notice chiefly
on account of the memorable battle that took place on the
neighbouring heights.

LEWISTON,
Just opposite Queenston is a beautifully situated town,
about seven miles from the Falls. It is a place of some
importance, and stands at the head of the navigation on
the river : it contains several excellent hotels and public
buildings. The Bufiialo, Niagara Falls, and Lewiston
Railroad Terminus, la here. There is a village of Tusca-
rora Indians three miles from this. Lewiston was
destroyed by the British in 1813, and rebuilt at the
termination of the war.

NIAGARA TOWN
Stands on the Canada shore, opposite Youngston, on the
site of Newark, which was burnt in 1813 by General

V ;fi

3:2

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

M'Clure. Its prosperity has been injured somewhat by
the Welland Canal. A slioi-t distance above the town
are the remains of Fort George, which was taken by the
Americanii in 1818, afterwards destroyed by the British,
and left in ruius.

Fort Niagara, on the American side, has many his-
torical associations, which we have not space to touch
upon. The Eu((Iish General Frideaux fell here in the
battle of 24th July 1759, and the French garrison After-
wards surrendered to Sir William Johnson.

Fort Massasauga, at the mouth of the river, opposite
Fort Niagara, is a little below the town of Niagara, and
is garrisoned by British soldiers.

NIAGARA RIVER ABOVE THE FALLS.

Having now traced this noble river from the Falls to
its mouth, let us proceed to its source at Lake Erie, and
give it a rapid glance as we follow its course to the Qreat
Cataract.

Buffalo, at its commencement, stands guard at the

outlet of Lake Erie. This is a great commercial city,

from which trains leave daily for all parts of the States

and Canada. Railway direct to the Falls, which are dis-

(17)

tant about 22 miles. The terminus of this railway is at
Lewiston, and it connects with the Great Western Bail-
way of Canada at the Suspension Bridge. Just opposite
is old Fort Erie, belonging to the British.

Black Rock, now part of Buffalo, once rivalled tht
city in importance. Here a steam-ferry crosses over to
Waterloo, a village on the Canada shore.

Tonaieanda is 12 miles from Bu£hlo, at the widest
part of Niagara River.

Grand Idand, on which is a little hamlet named
White Haven, divides the river into two branches. On
the site of White Haven was intended to be built a "city
of refuge for the Jews; " bat the aspiring and sanguine
projector failed in carrying oat his intention.

Fort Schlosser is 9 miles further down the river, on the
American side. It was at the old landing here that the
burning of the Caroline took place, during the Oauadian
rebellion of 1837.

The insurgents had taken up a position on Navy
Idand, and the Caroline steamer was charged by the
British with carrying provisions to the rebels. The vessel
was therefore seized by Colonel M'Nabb, cut loose from
her moorings, set on fire, and sent, like a flaming meteor,

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

down the wild rapids and over the Falls of Nia(;ara.
There was no one on board when this vessel took her
awful leap into the roaring gulf. Opposite Schlosser is
the village of Chippewa (2^ miles above the Falls), from
which a railway runs to Queenston and the mouth of the
river. Steamers ply between Buffalo and this village,
below which vessels dare not venture.

THE ISLANDS

Abovj the rapids are very numerous. Indeed the river
is studded with them, from Lake Erie all the way down
to iLe Falls. There are 87 of them, if we may be per-
mitted to count those that are little more than large
rocks. Grand Idand is the largest, being 12 miles long
and 7 broad. It divides the stream into two branches.
Navy Island is just below it. Here the French built
their ships of war in 1759. This island was the resort
of the rebel leaders in 1837. It has an area of 304 acres.
Our space forbids further notice of these islands, which

are exquisitely beautiful. Some are large, and others
are small; some lie in quiet water, clearly reflected in
the surrounding mirror; while others stand in the midst
of the raging current, looking black in the white turmoil
of surrounding foam, and seeming as if they would fain
check the angry waters in their headlong rush towards
the Falls.

There is a fascination about this mighty cataract
which seems to chain ua to the spot, and, when we seek
to leave it, draws us irresistibly back again. Even in
describing it, however inadequately the task may be
accomplished, we are loath to lay down the pen and tear
ourselves away. The Almighty has invested Niagara
with a power which none can resist; and those who gaze
upon it for the first time have a new era in their exist*
cnce opened up — new thoughts and impressions stamped
indelibly on their hearts, which will haunt them in after
years and linger on their memories till time shall be swal-
lowed up in eternity.

t»

(17)

GEOLOGY OF NIAGARA.

The geological features of the district around Niagara
are very remarkable, and the Falls afford a tine example of
the power of water to form an excavation of great depth and
considerable length in the solid rock. The country over
which the river flows is a flat table-land, elevated about
330 feet above Lake Ontario. Lake Erie, situated in a
depression of this platform, is about 36 miles distant from
Ontario, lying to the south-west. This table-land ex-
tends towards Queenston, where it terminates suddenly
in an abrupt line of cliff, or escarpment, facing towards
vhe north. The land then continues on a lower level to
Lr.ke Ontario.

The descent of the River Niagara— which, let it be
borne in remembrance, flows northward — is only about
fifteen feet in the first fifteen miles from Lake Erie, and
the country around is almost on a level with the river's
banks. At this part the Niagara varies from one to
(17)

three miles in width, has a tranquil current, and is lake- '
like in appearance, being interspersed with low, wooded
islands. At the head of the rapids it assumes a totally
difl'erent appearance, and descends about fifty feet in less
than a mile, over an uneven bed of limestone, and, after
being divided into two sheets by Ooat Island, plunges
down about 164 feet perpendicular at the Falls. Just
below the Falls the river narrows abruptly, and flows
rapidly through a deep gorge, varying from 200 to 400
yards wide, and 300 feet deep. This gorge, or chasm,
extends from the Falls to the escarpment above referred
to, near Queenston, a distance of seven miles; in the
course of which the river descends 100 feet, and then
emerges on the low, level land lying between the Queen-
ston Heights and Lake Ontario — a further distance of
seven miles. The descent here is only about four feet
altogether, and the flow of the river is placid. The chasm

GEOLOGY OP NIAGARA.

is winding in form, and, about the centre of its course,
makes a turn nearly at right angles, forming the well-
known whirlpool.

Such are the various appearances and peculiarities pre-
sented by the River and Falls of Niagara, the causes of
which we shall endeavour to explain.

The escarpment at Queeuston, and the sides of the
preat ravine, have enabled us in the most satisfactory
manner to ascertain the geological formations of the dis-
trict, and to account for the present position of the Falls,
as well as to form, on good grounds, an opinion as to the
probable working of this mighty cataract in the future.
It has long been supposed that the Falls originally plunged
over the cliff at Queeuston, and that they have gradually
eaten their way back, a distance of seven miles, to their
present position. It is further conjectured that tiiey will
continue to cut their way back, in the course of ages, to
Lake Erie, and that an extensive inundation will be
caused by the waters of the lake thus set free. Recent
investigation has shown, however, that this result is
highly improbable, we may almost say impossible; that
(he peculiar quality and position of the strata over which
the river flows are such, that the Falls will be diminished
(171

in height as they recede, and their recession be altogether
checked at a certain point.

It has been ascertained beyond all doubt that the Falls
do recede ; but the rate of this retrograde movement is
very uncertain, and, indeed, we have every reason to be-
lieve that the rate of recession must of necessity in time
past have been irregtUar. The cause of this irregularity
becomes apparent on considering the formations presented
to view at the escarpment and in the chasm. Here we
find that the strata are nearly horizontal, as indeed they
are throughout the whole region, having a very slight dip
towards the south of twenty-five feet in a mile. They
all consist of difi'erent members of the Silurian series,
and vary considerably in thickness and density. In con-
sequence of the slight dip in the strata above referred
to, the different groups of rock crop out from beneath
each other, and thus appear on the surface in parallel
zones or belts; and the Falls, in their retrograde move-
ment, after cutting thrjugh one of these zones, would
meet with another of a totally different character; having
cut through which, a third would succeed, and so on.

In all probability Niagara originally flowed through a
shallow valley, similar to that above the Falls, all the

GEOLOGY OP NIAGARA.

way across the table-land to the Queenston Heights or
escarpment. On this point Sir C. Lyell writes : " I ob-
tained geological evidence of the former existence of an
old river-bed, which, I have no doubt, indicates the origi-
nal channel through which the waters once flowed from
the Falls to Queenston, at the height of nearly 800 feet
above the bottom of the present gorge. The geological
monuments alluded to consist of patches of sand and
gravel forty feet thick, containing fluviatile shells of the
genera Unio, Cyclas, Melania, &c., such as now inhabit
the waters of the Niagara above the Falls. The identity
of these fossil species with the recent is unquestionable,
and these fresh-water deposits occur at the edge of the
cliffs bounding the ravine, so that they prove the former
extension of an elevated shallow valley, four miles below
the Palls— a distinct prolongation of that now occupied
by the Niagara in the elevated region between Lake Erie
and the Falls."

At the escarpment the cataract thundered over a preci-
pice twice the height of the present one, to the lower
level. This lower level, as shown by Hall's Report on
the Geology of New York, is composed of red shaly sand-
stone and marl. The formations incumbent upon this,
(17)

exhibited on the face of the escarpment, are as follows :
1. Gray quartzose sandstone; 2. Bed shaly sandstone,
similar to that of the low level, with thin courses of sand-
stone near the top; 3. Gray mottled sandstone; 4. A thin
bed of green shale; 5. Compact gray limestone; 6. A
thick stratum of soft argillo-calcareous shale, similar to
that which now lies at the base of the Falls; 7. A thick
stratum of limestone, compact and geodiferous, similar to
the limestone rock which forms the upper part of the Falls.
This is all that we have presented to us in the escarp-
ment; but we may observe, parenthetically, that if we
proceed backwards towards Lake Brie, we cross the zone
of limestone, and at the Falls discover another stratum
of thin-bedded limestone overlapping it, in consequence
of the southerly dip before referred to. Further back
still we find the Onondaga salt group, which extends,
superficially, almost to Lake Erie, where another lime-
stone formation appears.

Now, had there been no dip in the strata of the table-
land between Lake Erie and Queenston, it is probable
that the Falls would have continued to recede regularly,
having always the same formations to cut through, and
the same foundation to fall upon and excavate. But in

GEOLOGY OF NIAGARA.

consequence of the gentle inclination of the strata to the
south, the surface presented to the action of the Falls has
continually varied, and the process of recession has been
as follows : —

First, the river, rolling over the upper formation of
hard limestone, to the escarpment, thundered down a
height about double that of the present Falls, and struck
upon the red shaly sandstone of the plain below. This
being soft, was rapidly worn away by the action of the
water and spray, while the more compact rocks above,
comparatively unaffected, projected over the caldron, and
at length fell in masses from time to time as the under-
mining process went on. But as the Falls receded, the
belt of red sandstone was gradually crossed, and the gray
quartzose sandstone became the foundation of the group,
and the recipient of Niagara's tremendous blows. This
rock is extremely hard; here, therefore, the retrograde
movement was probably retarded forages; and here, just
at the point where the Falls intersected this thin stratum
of quartzose sandstone, the whirlpool is now situated.

The next formation on which the Falls operated was
the red shaly sandstone, similar to the first; which, being
soft, accelerated the recession. This went on at increased
(17)

speed until the stratum was cut through, and the third
formation was reached. Here again an alteration in
speed occurred as before. The last that has been cut
through is the fifth stratum, compact gray limestone, on
which the cataract now falls.

The formation now reached, and that on which Niagara
is operating at the present day, is the soft argillo-calcare-
ous shale. It extends from the bottom of the precipice
over which the water plunges, to nearly half-way up, and
is about eighty feet thick. Above it lies the compact re-
fractory limestone, which forms the upper formation at
this point. This also is about eighty feet thick; and here
we see the process of excavation progressing rapidly.
The lower stratum, being soft, is disintegrated by the
violent action of the water and spray, aided in winter by
frost; and portions of the incumbent rock, being thus
left unsupported, fall down from time to time. The huge
masses of undermined limestone that fell in the years
1818 and 1828, shook the country, it is said, like an
earthquake.

This process is continually altering the appearance ot
the Falls. Sir Charles Lyell, in his geological treatise
on this region, says : " According to the statement of

-*-

OKOLOOY OF NIAGARA.

our guide in 1841 (Samuel Hooker), an indentation of
about forty feet has been produced in the middle of the
ledge of limestone at the lesser Fall since the year 1815,
so that it has begun to assume the shape of a crescent ;
while within the same period the Horse-Shoe Fall has
lieen altered so as less to deserve its name. Uoat Island
has lost several acres in area in the last four years ; and
I have no doubt that this waste neither is, nor has been,
a mere temporary accident, since I found that the same
recession was in progress in various other waterfalls
which I visited with Mr. Hall in the State of New York."

The rate at which the Falls now recede is a point of
dispute. Mr. Bakewell calculatetl that, in the forty
years preceding 1830, Niagara had lieen going back at
the rate of about a yard annually. Sir Charles Lyell, on
the other hand, is of opinion that one foot per annum is
a much more probable conjecture. As we have already
explained, thib rapid rate of recession has, in all likeli-
hood, not been uniform, but that in many parts of its
course Niagara has remained almost stationary for ages.

That the Falls will ever reach Lake Erie is rendered
extremely improbable from the following facta : Owing
to th« formation of the land, they are gradually losing in
(17)

height, and, therefore, in power, as they retreat. More-
over we know that, in consequence of the southerly dip
of the strata, they will have cut through the bed of soft
shale after travelling two miles further back ; thus the
massive limestone which is now at the top will then be
at the bottom of the precipice, while, at the same time,
the Falls will be only half their present height. This
latter hypothesis has been advanced by Mr. Hall, who,
in his survey, has demonstrated that there is a diminu-
tion of forty feet in the perpendicular height of the Falls
for every mile that they recede southward : and this
conclusion is based upon two facts — namely, that the
slope of the river-channel, in its course northward, is
fifteen feet in a mile, and that the dip of the strata in an
opposite, or southerly direction, is about twenty-five feet
in a mile.

From this it seems probable that, in the course of
between ten and eleven thousand years, the Falls of
Niagara, having the thick and hard limestone at their
base, and having diminished to half their present
height, will be effectually retarded in their retrograde
progress, if not previously checked by the fall of large
masses of the rock from the cliff above. Should they

GEOLOGY OF NIAGARA.

still recede, however, beyond this point, in the course of
future ages they will have to intersect entirely different
strata from that over which tbey now fall, and will be
no diminished in height as to be almost lost before
reaching Lake Erie.

The question as to the origin of the Fulls — the manner
in which they commenced, and the geological period at
which they tirst came into existence— is one of great
interest ; but want of space forbids our discussing that
question here. We can make but one or two brief
remarks in regard to it.

Sir Charles Lyell is of opinion that, originally the
whole country was beneath the surface of the ocean, at a
very remote geological period ; that it emerged slowly
from the sea, and was again submerged at a compara-
tively modern period, when shells then inhabiting the
ocean belonged almost without exception to species still
living inf high northern latitudes, and some of them in
temperate latitudes. The next great change was the
blow and gradual re-emergence of this country.

As soon as the table-land between Lakes Erie and
Ontario emerged, the River Niagara came into existence ;
and at the same moment there was a cascade of moderate
(17)

height at Queenston, which fell directly into the sea.
The cataract then commenced its retrograde movement.
As t)ie land slowly emerged, and the hard beds were
exposed, another Fall would be formed ; and then pro.
bably a third, when the quartzose sandstone appeared.
The recession of the uppermost Fall must have been
retarded by the thick limestone bed through which it
had to cut; the second Fall, not being exposed to the
same hindrance, overtook it; and thus the three ulti-
mately came to be joined in one.

The successive ages that must have rolled on during
the evolution of these events are beyond the power of
the human intellect to appreciate, and belong to those
"deep things "of the great Creator, whose ways are
infinitely above our finite comprehension. It is roughly
calculated that the Falls must have taken at least
35,000 years to cut their way from the escarpment of
Queenston to their present position; yet this period,
great though it is in comparison with the years to which
the annals of the human race are limited, is as nothing
when compared with the previous ages whose extent is
indicated by the geological formations in the region
around Niagara.

DESCRIPTIVE PIECES.

TO NIAGARA

WRITTEN AT THE FIRST SIGHT OF ITS FALLS,

Augruit 13, 1837.

Hail! Sovereign of the world of floods! whose majestjr and

might
First dazzles, then enraptures, then o'erawes the aching sight:
The pomp of kings and emperors, in every clime and zone.
Grows dim beneath the splendour of thy glorious watery

throne.

No fleets can stop thy progress, no armies bid thee stay.
But onward — onward — onward — thy march still holds its

way;
The rising mists that veil thee as thy heralds go before.
And the music that proclaims thee is the thund'ring cat'ract's

roar!
(17)

Thy diadem's an emerald, of the clearest, purest hue,

Set round with waves of snow-white foam, and spray of

feathery dew;
While tresses of the brightest pearls float o'er thine ample

sheet,
And the rainbow lays its gorgeous gems in tribute at thy feet.

Thy reign is from 'he ancient days, thy sceptre from on high,
Thy birth was when the distant stars first lit the glowing sky;
The sun, the moon, and all the orbs that shine upon thee now.
Beheld the wreath of glory which first bound thine infant
brow.

And from *hat hour to this, in which I gaze upon thy

stream,
From age to age — in winter's frost or summer's sultry

beam —

DESCRIPTIVE PIECES.

Dy day, by night, without a pause, thy waves, with loud

acclaim,
In ceaseless sounds have still proclaimed the great Eternal's

name.

For whether, on thy forest-banks, the Indian of the wood.
Or, since his day, the red man's foe on his fatherland has

stood;
Whoe'er has seen thine incense rise, or heard thy torrents

roar.
Must have knelt before the God of all to worship and adore.

Accept, then, O Supremely Great ! Infinite ! O God !
From this primeval altar, the green and virgin sod,
The humble homage that my soul in gratitude would pay
To Thee whose shield has guarded me through all my wan-
dering way.

For if the ocean be as nought in the hollow of Thine hand,
And the stars of the bright firmament in Thy balance grains of

sand;
If Niagara's rolling flood seem great to us who humbly bow,
Oh, Great Creator of the Whole, how passing great art Thou!
(17)

But though Thy power is far more vast than finite mind can

scan.
Thy mercy is still greater shown to weak, dependent man :
For him thou cloth'st the fertile earth with herbs, and fruit,

and seed;
For him the seas, the lakes, the streams, supply his hourly

need.

Around, on high, or far, or near, the universal whole
Proclaims Thy glory, as the orbs in their fixed courses roll;
And from Creation's grateful voice the hymn ascends above.
While Heaven re-echoes back to Earth the chorus — " God is

love!" J. S. BUOKINQHAIL

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA.

Tbebe's nothing great or bright, thou glorious Fall!
Thou mayst not to the fancy's sense recall —
The thunder-riven cloud, the lightning's leap.
The stirrings of the chambers of the deep;
Earth's emerald green and many-tinted dyes,
The fleecy whiteness of the upper skies;
The tread of armies, thickening as they come,
The boom of cannon and the beat of drum;

DESORIPTIVB PIE0E8.

The brow of beanty and the form of grace,
The paulon and the prowess of onr race;
The aong of Homer in its loftiest hour,
The unresisting sweep of Boman power;
Britannia's trident on the azure sea,
America's young shout of liberty!

Oh, may the wars that madden on these deeps,
There spend their rage, nor climb the encircling steeps;
And till the conflict of their surges cease.
The nations on thy banks repose in peace!

LORD MORFKTH.

NIAGARA.
Flow on for ever, in thy glorious robe
Of terror and of beauty. Yea, flow on,
Unfathomed and resistless. God hath set
His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud
Mantled around thy feet And He doth give
Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him
Eternally — bidding the lip of man
Keep silence, and upon thine altar pour
Incense of awe-struck praise.
(17)

Earth fears to lift
The insect trump that tells her trifling Joys
Or fleeting triumplis, 'mid the peal sublime
Of thy tremendous hymn. Proud Ocean shrinks
Back from thy brotherhood, and all his waves
Retire alMshed. For he hath need to sleep,
Sometimes, like a spent labourer, calling home
His boisterous billows, from their vexing play,
To a long dreary calm : but thy strong tide
Faints not, nor e'er with failing hearts forgets
Its everlasting lesson, night nor day.
The morning stars, that hailed Creation's birth,
Heard thy hoarse anthem mixing with their song
Jehovah's name ; and the dissolving fires,
That wait the mandate of the day of doom
To wreck the Earth, shall find it deep inscribed
Upon thy rocky scroll.

* * * • «

Lo ! yon birds.
How bold ! they venture near, dipping their wing
In all thy mist and foam. Perchance 'tis meet
For thom to touch thy garment's hem, or stir
Thy diamond wreath, who sport upon the cloud

DESCRIPTIVE PIECES.

Unblamed, or warble at the gate of heaven
Without reproof. But as for us, it geems
Scarce lawful with our erring lips to talk
Familiarly of thee. Methinks, to trace
Thine awful features with our pencil's point
Were but to press on Sinai.

Thou dost speak
Alone of God, who poured thee as a drop
From His right hand — bidding the soul that looks
Upon thy fearful majesty be still,
Be humbly wrapped in its own nothingness,
And lose itself in Him.

RiaOCRNBY.

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA.

The thoughts are strange that crowd into my brain
While I look upward to thee. It would seem
As if God poured thee from His " hollow hand,"
And hung His bow upon thine awful front.
And spoke in that loud voice which seemed to him
Who dwelt in Patmos for his Saviour's sake,
"The sound of many waters ;*' and had bade
(17)

Thy flood to chronicle the ages back,
And notch the centuries in the eternal rocks.
Deep calleth unto deep. And what are we,
That hear the question of that voice sublime ?
Oh t what are all the notes that ever rung
From War's vain trumpet, by thy thundering side ?
Yea, what is all the riot that man makes
In his short life, to thy unceasing roar ?
And yet, bold babbler, what art thou to Him
Who drowned a world, and heaped the waters far
Above its loftiest mountains? — a light wave
That breaks and whispers of its Maker's might !

BRAINAAD.

VISIT OF THE PRINCE OF WALES TO NIAGARA

In September 1860.

ABRIDQKD FROM " TBE TIMES."

" Ui8 Boyal Highness may almost be said to be here in
privata He rides or walks about without a mob at his heels,
and can sit and watch for hours the tremendous majesty of
the scene around him. It is just as well, perhaps, that state
is dropped before Xiagara. The shout of a mob, or the little

DESCRIPTIVE PIECES.

tinsel o{ a procession, would loolc poorly beside this great
altar of Nature, wbt.re a misty incense is always rising to
heaven, and the eternity of waters speaks only of Okx. In
this scene, princes, powers, and dominations are all forgotten,
as you stand before the Falls of Niagara, which pour down
with such a majesty of powor, that you can only gase with
solemn awo upon the grandest and most terrible of all God's
works in nature. It is a scene which poets and authors have
tried for years, but always failed to tell. Artists have studied
here, poets have drawn their inspiration from its huge green
billows, and some of the ablest penmen of the Old World have
written less what they saw, perhaps, than what they thought
of these mighty cataracts. But Niaga:» is still, and must
always be, unpainted and unsung. You miss, in all the best
attempts, its might, its ever-changing play of colour, its hide-
ous rush — its roar. Words, in fact, are powerless before the
stupendous force and terror of this cataract, and all the
wealth of language would be exhausted before one could
tell how the great hill of waters which drops from the mons-
trous cliff so smooth, so green, so deep, changes, ere one can
vu rk its rush, into millions of columns of spray, which, dart-
ing out like white fire-works, shoot down and down, till lost
in the clouds of mist which always wrap the Falls in dim and
(17)

grand obscurity. Let the visitor gaze from the Suspension
Bridge dovm the stream. There is enough to occupy the
attention, as the masses of deep blue water rush madly
through the gorge below him, cheeked here and there by a
sunken rock, over which they storm and rave, and seem to
turn upon their hidden enemies in a circle of dreadful whirl-
pools, the ring of angry froth in which shows the vortex where
beams, and trees, and logs of timber are dragged beneath,
and hurried down for miles and miles, till they emerge at last
in the quiet, solemn-looking waters of Lake Ontario. Who
that has ever gaaed from this bridge can wonder at the
belief of the Indians, that an evil spirit resided beneath these
dreadful waters? For ever and anon, out of the least angry
spots, a huge green wave will suddenly upheave, and seem to
choke and struggle with the rest For an instant it spreads,
dark and terrible, from cliff to cliff, as though it strove for
room ; then, tumbling forward, is carried off with a rush like
the sweep of destiny. As you gase on the rush of waters
from above, you feel a horrid yearning in your heart to plunge
in and join the mad whirl, and see the mystery out. Yet,
even with this thought at the strongest, you shrink instinc-
tively from the dreadful brink, where the very waters seem
hurrying to destruction. Faster and faster, and wilder and

DESCRIPTIVE PIECES.

wilder, it pours with ovory minute, bent into crooked chan-
nels in the stones, but always rushing on, as if the river were
mad. Trees tumbled over trees, their wet branches out of
water, as if they strove for help against their enemy, and
clung for one brief instant to the banks, to be whirled down
the next more rapidly than ever. At last, near Ooat Island,
where the great rapids commence, the waves 'headlong
plunge and writhe in agony,' — a perfect ' hell of waters,' — the
Charybdis of the Western World. It is here that the resist-
less might of the Great Falls can be best appreciated, af' you
note the tumbling waters gathering strength for that great
avalanche of waves, where, racing and struggling on the cllif,
they fall at last, and a mighty river is dashed into bells of
foam.

"Let the traveller pass the frail wooden bridge which
stretches from rock to rock on the very verge of the Great
Pall. The idol of all the worshippers of Nature, the goal and
object of Western travai, the cataract of all the cataracts of

the world is before you, and you pause with devotional sad«
ness, as ' deep calleth unto deep' with thundering roar, and
the great amphitheatre of green waters pouring down in sullen
majesty, ia lost for ever in the clouds which rise so dense
beneath them. Here words are powerless, guides are use-
less, and he who wishes to see and feel Niagara, must watch
it for himself. He must watch it hour by hour, as the deep
green mass always keeps nearii^g the edge, and, flowing smooth
as oil nearer and nearer, comes slowly and solemnly over the
cliff like a green curtain, and, with one stately massive
plunge, pours down and down, till the eye loses its rush, and
the bright emerald hill shades into dazzling white, and, broken
at last in its long fall. It parts into spray and disappears in
the mist below.

" Niagara has flowed from all time as it thunders now, yet
in its mighty rush frush beauties may be seen every hour,
though its eternal waters never alter in their bulk for snmmei
suns or the melting of Canadian snows."

(ITJ