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V: I It I I ' m ;■ .Am^rW'-'^^l^^ f ^?ra 'f A 'I ^^(MTKiVi'iK •[•.'.! f i '*■■ • '^rl'trjv V . pi \ 11 IIP MHiwiii iiwi—miIb / J •I > ■ ■■ 1. *fe t'4 . ^ ,(.- ■ PAPEES BKLATIVI TO THI -fr RECENT ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS ; ^ ^^ IN SEARCH OF f SIR JOHN FEANKLIN '' AND THE CREWS OF .4^ H.M.S. "EREBUS" AND "TERROR." Vrremten to botd Kou^eo of VarlUment fiv 3. . (Signed) J. R. G. Graham. Hyde Parker. u o.y To Edw. A. Inglefield, Esq., Her Majesty's Steam Sloop Phoenix, ";' Woolwich. .; By Command of their Lordships, (Signed) R. Osborne. M. F. F. Berkeley. R. S. DuNDAS. Alex. Milne. • • J i -r. By the Commissioners for Executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of the Uni'xd Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. We have to inform you that we have dispatched Her Majesty's steam vessel Phoenix, under the command of Commander Inglefield, with the Breadalbane transport, to Beechey Island for the purpose of replenishing the ships under your command with stores and provisions, in case your supplies may have been so far reduced by the dep6t formed at Melville Island and the various cachets on the coast, as to prevent you from continuing further search for Sir John Franklin, during this season and the winter of 1853-54, if the information you may have gained determine you to continue such further search. 2. In communicating with you on the subject of your fbnner orders and the service on which you are employed, we are aware how impossible it is for us to send out any definite instnictions with reference to your future proceedings, when wc are ignorant of the position in which you may now be placed, or whether any traces of Sir John Franklin's expedition may have been found during last autumn or the spring of this year, and what steps you may have considered it most expedient to adopt. But if no trace of the missing ships have l)een found beyond the Wellington Channel, and if it should appear that by the extended search you may have been enabled to make in that quarter, that the missing ships did not proceed in that direction, and if Captain Kellett should have reached Melville Island, as directed by his instructions, and his land expeditions should also have failed in finding any such trace, it does not appear to us that there is any other direction in which a prospect of their dis- covery can be expected. Every accessible part of the shores 01 the Polar Seas, west of Lancaster Sound, will have beeii visited without finding a trace of the missing ships, except their former station at Beechey Island in 1845 and 1846. In such a contingency as this, and if such should likewise be your opinion, after mature consideration with the senior officers under your command, there appears ao other course left but to abandon all further search. "-"■■PBTJ' ;- ' » ? y .^^^ K. 3. But in case you should have found any trace of the expedition, it will be your duty to follow up that trace. In doing this, you must exercise extreme caution, so as not to lose your means of communication with Becchey Island ; nor are you to incur any hopeless risk by proceeding beyond reasonable limits, for the safety of your own crews must be your first care. We place every con- fidence in your zeal and intelligence, and feel assured that you will act with sound judgment in whatever situation you may be placed ; we therefore leave it to you either to abandon the expedition altogether, if you are of opinion that no further steps can be practicably taken, or to send such of the ships to England as you may not requ're ; transmitting by them, to our secretarjr, not only a full account of all your proceedings, but charts of all your discoveries, and keeping us informed of your views and intentions, so that if it should be necessary every requisite aid may be given you in the summer of 1 854. 4. Before your final departure from the Polar Seas, should you think proper to adopt that course, there appears one very important subject which will require your serious consideration ; and that is, the present position of the ships under the command of Captain Collinson, and Commander M'Clure, which entered the ice to the N. h. of Point Barrow, (Behring Straits,) the latter in August 1850, and the former in July 1851. These officers, with their respective crews, may have been compelled by circumstances to abandon their ships. If such should be the case, they may probably attempt to reach Melville Island, and having had this in view when you left hngland, we directed in your instructions that a depot of provisions, and other stores, should be formed at that island. From this positif>n they will ho doubt endeavour to make their way to Beechey Island, or Port Ijcopold. It will therefore be your duty, before returning to England, to be fully satisfied that a proper dep6t of coals, provisions, &c., had been formed at Mellville Islriid. by Captain Kellett, and that clear infor- mation had also been left there, tha' similar supplies would be found at Beechey Island. 5. This depdt on Beechey Island is to consist of a full store of coal, provi- sions, clothes, and other stores, rmd you will take care to have it most careftdly secured against the depredations of berrs, or other animals ; you are also to leave one of your ships there, with or without a crew, as you may deem most advisable, so that Captain Collinson or Commander M'Clure's parties may find every possible assistance, which they may require, and have the means at their command of returning to England ; but should you find it to be practicable to place the ship, or a dep6t of stores, in a more advanced position, between Mel- ville and Beechey Islands, it might be expedient to do so. This is a point on which you can form a better judgment than we can. Our most anxious wish is to establish the best possible arrangement with the view of giving succour and support to the crews of those ships, should they be compelled to seek refuge in the direction we have pointed out. 6. Having expressed these general views, which will require your careful con- sideration, we leave it to you to take such steps as you may consider most expedient for meeting the circumstances of the case. 7. On the arrival of the Transport at Beechey Island, you are immediately to hasten her discharge, and dispatch her to England, with the least possible delay, and you are not to detain the Phcenix longer than may be necessary, or to risk her being frozen in, but to send her also to England with intelhgence of your proceedings, exchanging any of her men, and sending invalids, &c. Given under our hands this 1 1th day of May 1853. (Signed) To Sir Edw. Belcher, C.B., Ciiptain of Her Majesty's Ship Assistance, Arctic Seas. By Command of their Lordships, (Signed) R. Osborne. A 2 J. R. G. Graham. Hyde Parker. M. F. F. Berkeley. R. S. DuNDAS. Albx. Milne. 1 'i By the Commissioners for Executing the Office ot" Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. Heuewith you will receive Copies of Instructions, which we have addressed to Captain Sir E. Belcher, and also those which we have given to Commander Ingleficld, of Her Majesty's Ship Phcimix. In the absence of Sir E. Belcher from Beed.ey Island, you will adopt such proceedings as you may deem to be necessary, and the circumstances ot the case may require, and with reference to any orders or directions you may have received from your Senior Officer. '2. It will be necessary that j'ou should take iumicdiate steps for discharging the Cargo i)f the Breadalbane Transport, and send her to England without a moment's delay, and the Phoenix is not to be detained longer than may be actually necessary. On these several points you will be guided by Our instruc- tions to Sir E. Belcher and Commander Inglefield. Given under our hands, this II th day of May 1853. (Signed) To the Senior Naval Officer at Beechey Island. By Command of their Lordships, (Signed) R. Osbobnk. J. K. G. Graham. Hyde Parker. M. F. F. Berkelby. k. s. dundas. Alex. Milne. No. 2. Commander Inglefield to the Secretary of the Admiralty. Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Phoenix," At Sea, lat. 59° 22' N., long. 41° 57' W., the 14th June 1853. Sir, (Received 24th June.) By Her Majesty's steam ship " Desperate " I have the honour to acquaint you, for the information of my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that we have proceeded thus far upon our voyage, assisted by Her Majesty's steamers " Desperate " and " Barracouta." The latter vessel parted company on the 8th insttmt. I have received from Captain Chambers every assistance, both with regard to lowing, and in supplying such few stores as we required. From him I received permission to send to England for medical treatment two men whose cases were reported to me by the surgeon as likely to prove troublesome ; their vacancies have been filled up from supernumeraries out of " Barracouta." At Cork I took on board 20 sheep, (findmg them as cheap as salt provisions) for the use of the crews of the " Phoenix " and her tender. I hope to carry five of these (which are in excellent condition) to Beechey Island for the use of the sick in the Arctic squadron, and I trust their Lordships will not disapprove of my taking upon myself this step without their sanction. The " Phoenix " having steamed from Greenhithe to Cork, a fair opportunity has been afforded for testing the engines, and I have to report that they worked admirably well, though the consumption of coal, owing to the formation of the boilers, is rather more than was expected. Average speed, 7 knots. The " Breadalbane " sails remarkably well and is a good sea boat, not at all too deep, and apparently well adapted for the service on which she is employed ; she parted company with the squadron on the 10th instant, in latitude 58° 49' 6" N. and longitude 34° 23^ W. I enclose for their Lordships information copies of instructions I have given to Lieutenant Elliott, in conmiand of the " Diligence," and the agent of the transport for their guidance in the event of parting company ; by those, their Lordships will be informed where I expect to rejoin the transport. On the 1 1th instant, we had the misfortune to carry away the main top gallant mast, caused by the heavy rolling of the vessel. I forward herewith a track chart, shewing the winds and time whilst in tow of steamers. Also, a set of variations observed on the voyage, and dip and intensity observations made at Haulbowlinc, Queenstown. I liave only to add that the crews and officers of the vessels under my charge are ail in good health, and that their Lorusiiips inay rely upon every exertion being made to ensure the return of the expedition this season. I have the honour to be. Sir, Your most obedient humble servant, E. A. Inglefield, Commander. ;. .■-:■■■ :. 'No. 3. ■''■■'... • ..• ' Commander iNOLKFiELn to Lieutenant Elliott. Her Maje8ty'8 Steam Sloop " Phoenix," Sir, at Woolwich, the 14th May 1853. The " Dilige p nnsport having been ordered by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty be supplied to Her Majesty's steam vessel under my command as her tender ; and having appointed certain officers and men belonging tO this ship, as per i?iargin, to serve on board that vessel ; it is my direction *&• J- '• M'DonMn, that you proceed on board and take charge of her as lieutenant commanding ; u,. jno. b. Hobnu, and I i.ave further to direct that you will consider that vessel, her officers and ji^w""?^' vjj'j''' crew, in no other light but as a part of this ship, receiving your stores and MiaSpnini ud provisions from her, and accounting for them to the proper officers as though Twenty-one Nuaea. they had been supplied to one of the boats of this vessel sent on detached service. As it is most important, for many reasons, that the ships of the expedition should not part company during the passage from England to the Arctic Seas, I enclose a code of general day, night, and fog signals ( independent of those usually supplied) by which the motions of the tender and transport will be guided ; and I desire that you will distinctly understand that should any acci- dent occur from neglect of the officer of the watch or others in not paying immediate attention to such signals as may be made from this vessel, you will be held responsible. You are to report to me every morning by signal the number of your sick, and at noon, or soon after, your position by meridional altitude and chronometer, and at all times be prepared to act in concert with this vessel in making such observations for survey as circumstances will admit. You are to cause a log to be kept and a journal of all your proceedings, forwarding the same to me on your return to this vessel. Certain meteorolo- gical instruments have been supplied from this ship, you will, therefore, direct the assistant surgeon to make careful register of the same. You will consider your station at sea about one mile on the starboard quarter of this ship, but should stress of weather or other unforeseen circumstances be the cause of the vessels of the expedition parting compony, you will consider the Greenland Port of Holstcinbourg as the first rendezvous, and should strong southerly gales (which are not unusual at this time of year) prevail on entering Davis Straits, you will not delay by endeavouring to make that port, but proceed at once to Godhaven, or Lievely in Disco, there to await further orders from me. I enclose a letter from the I)anish ambassador in London, addressed to the authorities in Greenland, which you -vaW present on your arrival at any of the Danish settlements, and which will ensure such assistance as you may require from them. I am, &c. E. A. Inglefield, Commander of the Expedition. No. 4. Commander Inglefield to Mr. Fawckner, Government Agent on board the " Breadalbane" Transport. Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Phoenix," Sir, at Woohvich, the 14th May 1853. Herewith I enclose a copy of Admiralty Regulations for the guidance of agents of transports, and the charter party of the " Breadalbane," and I have to direct that you will pay especial attention to those clauses in the fonner relative to keeping an inctcpenJent reckoning from tlie master of the vessel. As it is most important for many reasons that the vessels of the expedition should not part company on their passage from P^ngland to the Arctic Seas, it is my positive direction that you impress upon the master of the " Breadalbane," the importance of this measure, and for the more convenient conveyance of sailing directions to the vessels of the expedition, I enclose a code of general day, night, and fog signals, which will be used by this ship, independent of Marryat'i .Stfrnnls with wliirli t.lie transport is nrovidod. I ou will consider your station at sea about one mile on the port quarter of this ship, but should stress of weather or other unforeseen cu"cumstances be the cause of the vessels of the expedition parting company, you are to consider the A 3 6 .f>.t :•> ;«i»t,'l|.| I jr .1|4btf >.■ ^1 «» Greenland Port of Holsteinbourg as the first rendezvous, and should strong southerly gales (which are not unusual at this time of year) prevail on entering Davis Straits, you will not delav by endeavouring to make that port, but proceed at once to Godhaven, or Lievcly in Disco, there to await further orders from me. I enclose a letter from the Danish Ambassador in London, addressed to the authorities in Greenland, which you will present on your arrival at any of the Danish settlements, and which will ensure such assistance as you may require flrom them. I have further to direct that you will continually bear in mind that all orders given by you on beard the " Breadalbane" are to be directly and only to the master of that vessel, and you will keep a private journal of all the proceedings on board for my information. I am, &c. ' £. A. Inglefield, ' ' Commander of the Expedition. MJ' No. 5. Commander Inglefield to the Secretary of the Admiralty. Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Phoenix," ^ ". . .' . , ^, , .1.., -, , at Lievely, Disco, 11th July 1853. '^it, ' ' * (Received 18th August.) I HAVE the honour to acquaint you, for the information of ray Lords Commis- sioners of the Admiralty, that I arrived at this port on the 8th instant at mid- night, with the " Breadalbane " and " Diligence " in tow, having sailed from Holstj^inburg on the 6th instant, where I had lain from the 27th of last month. On the 31st I was joined by the " Diligence," which ship had parted company in a fog off Sukkertoppen, and, much to my joy, on the following morning by the transport, which had parted company in a gale three days' sail from Cape Farewell. Every exertion was made to complete the coaling, watering, and refit of the squadron, and everything has been conducted to my entire satisfaction. The responsibility I now take upon myself in sending the " Diligence" to England is not incurred without mature deliberation, and I trust their Lordships will approve, under the foUowng particular circumstances, of this deviation from my instructions. On my arrival at this anchorage I found the whaler " Rose," of Hull, had put in here on the 27th June, seriously damaged by a nip in the ice during a south-east gale in Melville Bay ; and her sinking state hud obliged the master to run her ashore at the top of this harbour, where, after a survey carefully made by certain competent persons, she was considered wholly irreparable ; and, a portion of her stores having been landed, was abandoned. On the morning of my arrival I took the carpenter of this ship, his mate, and the caulker, and in company with them made a minute inspection of the damage the " Rose" had sustained. We were shortly convinced that it was too serious to admit of the possibility of the most temporary repair ; tlie rottenness of the timber further proving the uselessness of an attempt. On my return to this ship I found Mr. Couldrey (the master) had come on board to sec me, and upon his formal written declaration that the ship had been abandoned, and learning she was insured, I took possession of her tor the benefit of the underwriters. My next duty, I considered was to provide for hur crew, which consisted of the master and forty-six men, as per list enclosed, all of whom were housed in an old fishing shed, some distance from the settlement. Accompanied by the late master of the " Rose," I proceeded to their abode, and having called the people together, inquired whether they would prefer working their passage to England if I provided them with the means, or waiting till the return of this expedition or the Danish vessels, for an opportunity of getting home. With one voice they declared their anxiety to return to England immediately, and I then pointed out how I should provide for, but what I required of them, stating that though it was quite out of my power to promise any remuneration for their services, yet that I doubted not, if their conduct merited reward, it would not be withheld from them by a British Admiralty. I showed them that I should require their perfect subordination to the officer in command of the vessel, and that they would first have to land 100 tons of coal before they could put on iioitid any of the ship's stores. At this extra work (without payment) there was some demur ; but I insisted upon the necessity (as I could not detain the expedition imder my command for this service), and the coals were required for our homeward voyage. Firm to my purpose, I desired those who 'were willing to aeree to my terms to divide themselves from the rest ; and I was glad to find that all passed over together, fu^d shouting thcec cheertifor " Old EaglAD^," and three a^ott) for the captain of the " Phconix," declared themselves, one and all, ready to do what- ever I required, and commence their work that very day. I have been thus particular (for obvious reasons) in stating the circumstances under which the " Diligence" is manned ; au'^ I trust their Lordships will be disposed to consider in a favourable light thii^ brave crew, who brought their vessel to Disco in a sinking state from Melville Bay, rather Uian desert her, as is so generally the case. I cannot but trust the responsibility 1 take in thus detaching one vessel from the expedition at its outset will meet with their Lordships' approval, when I state that I have been influenced, not alone by the unfortunate position of die ship- wrecked mariners, but the interests of the Crown, inasmuch that I learn their passage must in the other case have been paid by Her Majesty's Government to the Danish Government at the rate of Is. per day per man, and the further expenses of a passajee from Denmark ; moreover, their Lordships will obtain the services of the " Duigence" some months sooner than they otherwise could, and I am most sanguine that all the service that ship can render to the expedition has been performed. I have entrusted the command of the " Diligence " for this peculiar service to Lieutenant Marryat, whose zeal, ability, and discretion have gained my perfect confidence, and whose disappointment at not accompanying us further on our interesting voyage I trust will be graciously considered by their Lordships. I cannot (fismiss the tender to England without calling theur Lordships* attention to her late commander, Lieutenant Elliott, whom I had hoped to have made the bearer to them in September of the intelligence gained from the Arctic squadron. He has navigated and worked that too deeply laden vessel in gales of wind and fogs, and amongst rocks and shoals to my entire satisfaction ; and on our passage to Cape Farewell, to the admiration of all the squadron. As second in command, his invaluable services, from previous experience in these seas, forbid my sending him home at this early period of our voyage. I cannot, however, forbear making their Lordships acquainted, on this occasion, with his merit and ability. By the " Diligence " I send to England three men, whose cases were considered by the surgeon as requiring hospital treatment ; and a carpenter, whose utter uselessness and general bad conduct made him a burden to the expedition, and an eyesore to my crew. These vacancies I have filled up from volunteers amongst the shipwrecked seamen. The state of the ice in Melville Bay and the favourable nature of the season are points that their Lordships wiU be better informed upon by Mr. Couldrey than by any remarks from me ; I therefore beg to refer their Lordships to that gentleman, who has promised to wait upon the Board on his arrival in England, and to Lieutenant Marryat for any furtner information relative to the expedition I have the honour to command. A carrier pigeon was despatched from this ship on the 7th inst. with a fresh north wind ; it remained one night flying about the vessels that were then in tow, and afterwards took its departure. I state this, and enclose a fac simile of the billet that was fastened round its leg, since it has been affirmed that a bird returned from Sir John Ross's ship in these seas, and it may be possible that mine will reach England. I have three pairs that I purpose leaving at Beechey Island, to be conveyed to Sir Edward Belcher next season, that he may thus commu- nicate with the dep6t when other means are impracticable. I hope to sail for Upemavik to-morrow, and have now only to request you will assure their Lordships that no exertion will be spared to ensure the return of the expedition this year. The late surgeon of the " Rose " voluntarily takes charge of the invalids ; and I enclose for their Lordships' information a copy of the orders I have given to Lieutenant Marryat, and a track chart of the " Phoenix " and " Breadalbane," up to the present date, as well as certain observations on the dip, intensitv, and vftnatioB of the needle. I awi. &c= E. A. Inolbkbu), Commander. A 4 No. 6. Commander E. A. Inolefield to Lieutenant Josh. H. Markyat. Sir, Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Pha3nix," at Lievely, Disco, the 12th July I85;j. Having appointed ybu to the command of the "Diligence" tender to this ship, manned with the crew of the whaler " llosc " of Hull, it is my direction, on the receipt of this, that you repair on board, and take charge of her accordingly. You are fully aware of the object I have in view, in sending the " Diligence " to F-^gland at this early period of our voyage ; and I take this opportunity of assu.. ig you, that I cannot but regret the necessity that deprives the expedition of your valuable services. On my departure i'rom this harbour, you will use every exertion to get the remainder of the coals out of the " Diligence," landing and stacking them on the rocky point to the south of the settlement. Having performed this service, you will commence to ballast the tender with the anchors, cables, provisions and stores of the disabled vessel, carefully selecting the most valuable for shipment, and should these not prove sufficient to bring the vessel into sailing trim, the oil casks filled with water will readily supply the deficiency. Bemg in all respects ready for seu, you will proceed without delay to England, going either north or south about, as you may deem most convenient, or the wind may lead ; and on arrival at the first Pritish port, you will convey the accompanying despatches to the Admiralty, and, there reporting your arri\id, await their Lordships' further orders. In appointing you to the command of this vessel, under such peculiar circum- stances, I have been guided by the ability, zeal, and discretion you have always exhibited whilst imder my conmiand; and it is the latter quality which will now be most cssentiall}' requisite for the good conduct of your voyage. Your crew are a party of distressed British subjects, without pay, but under discipline (as under the Pendant), and it will rccjuire not only much tact, but much good management, to keep in order a band of men, wliose previous service at sea has had but one object for a day's work, viz., the amount of spoil each could earn in his exciting and perilous occupation. You will readily perceive the difference of the service now required of them (but which they have one and all agreed to perform), to that of their past life ; and placing the most perfect reliance in yoin* management, I have only to add that I trust their Lordships will take into consideration, at my rcciucst, the disappointment I am aware that 3'ou experience at not continuing the voyage to Beechey Island. For the information of my Lords Comnn'ssioners of the Admiralty, you will keep a log of your proceedings, and a tract chart ; and, lest they should be pleased to make the crew some payment for their services, you arc hereby directed to keep a careful statement of the work performed by each man, his ability, and general conduct. Enclosed I send you a list of tlie sliipwrecked crew, and 1 have ordered three men, as per margin, who are considered by the surgeon fit subjects fm* hospital treatment, to be discharged to the " Diligence," and a carpenter ( whose character renders him \iselcss to the expedition) for a passage to England. You will leave a letter here to await my arrival, acquainting me of your proceedings up to the time of your departure, and enclose a list oithe coals and provisions landed, and the st(nes you have shipped. I am, &c. E. A. iNGLEFIKl.n, Commander of the l-^xpedition 9 II. % Orders from Sir Edward Bdcher, C.6., to tlie Arctic Squadron. No. 1. Captain Sir Edward Bblciieh, C.B., to the respective Captains, Commanders, &c<, which may now be within Lancaster Sound. k'- H. M. S. " Assistance," Wellington Channel, ^ Gentlemen, 26th July 1863. Until further express directions under my hand, excepting under the following cases, no vessel under my command, or which may arrive within sight cf the vessels under my orders, is to proceed beyond Beechey Island on her passage to England, until I reach (and give further directions at) the said rendezvous. Case 1. If H. M. S. " Investigator" should fortunately escape from the ice- bound position where ComiiiHndcr M'Clure left her, and reach Beechey Island, then the instructions directed to Commander M'Clure will be carried out ; that vessel alone taking home all invalids, &c., and leaving all the available provisions, beyond six months,' for this squadron. Case 2. If uny unforeseen obstacle should retard or prevent my communicating E;rsonally, or by letter, with H. M. S. " North Star," or the senior officer at eechey Island, before the 1 st September, then all supernumeraries which may arrive from H. M. S. " Investigator" are to be embarked on board H. M. 8. " North Star," which vessel will be sufficient to convey them to England. Case .3. In the event of the " Intrepid " reaching Beechey Island, she is to be detained, taking the place of the " North Star," should she leave to proceed under Case 2. ., t:\ •' Edward Beixhek, . -, \; , .': Captain Commanding Arctic Expedition. No. 2. Commander Inglefield to Commander Pullen. Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Phoenix," off Cape Riley, Sir, 17th August 1853. I HAVE to request you will briefly give me your opinions in writing os to the course you would consider it your duty to take, were you acting under such directions as you are aware I have received from mv Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, and with reference to the General Order from Sir Edward Belcher to the respective Captains, &c., dated July 26th, 18.53. I have, &c. ■* ' ' K. A. Inglefield, Commander and .Senior Officer at Beechey Island. ^ No. 3. i Commander Pullen to Commander Inglefield. Her Majesty's Ship " North Star," Beechey Island, Sir, " 18th August 1853. In compliance with your request, as contained in your letter of yesterday's date, for my opinion in writing as to the course I should pursue were I acting under such orders as you have shown me from the Lords of the Admiralty, I can only state, that on my arrival, finding such to be the case, I should deem it best to follow under all circumstances those most stringent instructions from the Admiralty. Had Sir E. Belcher received his orders, and could know the state of things here, I feel confident that he would never think of making any alteration in such instructions. I have, &c. W. J. S. Pullen, Commander H.M.S. "North Star." I 10 No. 4. Commander iNOLBrntLD to Sir Edwabd Belcher, C.B. •,o Sir, Her Majesty's Stea'a Sloop " Phoenix," at Beechey Island, 20th August 1853. '1 HAVE the honour to acknowledge your general order of the 26th ultimo, and in reference thereto beg to acquaint you that I cannot but feel the great delicacy of the position in which I am placed, with orders from the Admiralty and your- Hclf so diametrically opposed ; and it is only after the most mature consideration of the circumstances of the case, — in which I feel by their Lordships' order of 1 1th May, I, as senior officer at Beechey Island, have full power to act, — that I have promised to set aside the instructions you have forwarded to all captains, commanders, &c. in Lancaster Sound. I may add, however, that there are two cases in which I should not have hesitated in deciding otherwise ; and these are, tirst, had I learnt that the ships now in Wellington Channel were so distressed as to require assistance ; and, second, could I perceive through the information afforded me by Captain PuUen, that you have the slightest hopes of finding the missing expedition, or that you had any other intention than that of returning to England as soon as the ships of your squadron were liberated. I have only to add that I trust you will approve my following out to the letter instructions so urgent as those given by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, and give me credit for the desire I have exhibited to communicate with you, and deposit the despatches from the Government within your reach, by my journey up the western shore of Wellington Channel as far as Cape Rescue, under circumstances and in a manner with which I believe you cannot fail to be satisfied. I have the honour to enclose a copy of a letter with its reply addressed by me to Commander Pullen, on the subject of the orders conveyed by him from you; and I am, &c. v;v./. :,,y -, £. A. Inolefielo, Commander. -/J CoALB AT Disco. Chas. K. Renwick, Chief Engineer, to Commander Inglefield. Report relative to the Coals received for Trial at Lievely, Island of Disco. , , H. M. Steam Vessel " Phoenix," At Sea, 20th September 1853. The weight of these coals, bulk for bulk, is nearly similar to those now on board the " Phoenix," which are of the best Welsh steam coal. They were first tried alone, in a furnace so burned down as to shov^ whether or not they ignited quickly ; they required the frequent use of the fire irons before combus- tion thoroughly began, and then they burned slowly, with little flame, throwing out, however, a good heat. They were next tried mixed with an equal quantity of Welsh coal, and succeeded well, emitting a most intense heat with little or no smoke. I am of opinion that using these coals alone it would not be practicable tO' keep steam sufficient for any other than the lowest ^ade of expansion, but I believe mixed, say one half or two thirds with Enghsh coal, they will prove a powerful and lasting fuel. ''asdi ii-XT' Cu Aa. K. Hv.ti'mjr.K. Chipf Plnorinppr. 1 » ''I >:< /fvj,< Captain Ingleiield's Report, 4th October 1853. W'! i im^t- ■ . ^t0 ... - No. 1. • ^ li?' ■ ' it^ti Commander Inolbfielo to the Sboebtaht of thb Aomibaltt, London. .^ 3, Her Majesty's Steam Sloop, "Phoenix,* {„,, off Thurso, 4th October 1853. Sir, n «'' *>nt' .rHl 1«!. (Received, 7th October.) ffyM I HAVE the honour to report to y oil for the information of my Lords Commis- sioners of the Admiralty, my arrival from the Arctic Regions, brinffine with me the important intelligencu of the safety of the " Investigator," ana the dis- covery of tne North-weet passage, though, unhappily, withoiit finding the slightest traces of the missing Expedition, either by this route, or on the field of search occupied by the squadron under Sir Edward Belcher's command. 2. 1 am the bearer of despatches from that officer and Captain Kellett, and Lieutenant Cresswell of the " Investiijator," whom I appointed from the " North Star" as supernumerary to this ship, is charged with the letters and journals of Commander M'Clure. '' 3. As his journal is of considerable len^h, I will endeavour to acquaint yoti with the substance of it, that their Lordships may thus be early informed of the leading features of the " Investigator's" discoveries ; but ere I enter into this matter, I deem it to be my duty to acquaint their Lordships of the result of the expedition I have the honour to command ; and, though I nave carried out their Lordship's instructions to the letter, and I trust to thei- entire satisfaction, it has not been without great difficulty, considerable peril to the safety of this vessel, and the total loss of the " Breadalbane" transport, without the loss of a single life. 4. This unfortunate event, which occurred on the morning of the 21st of August off Beechey Island, no human power could have averted ; and my own vessel, which at that time had the Transport actually in tow, barely escaped a similar fate, receiving a severe nip, which rose the stem several feet, and arched the quarter-deck, destroying the rudder and screw. One of the beams forward was sprung, and the port bow partially stove, breaking one of the riders and forcing in the planking. This latter damage, there is no doubt, may have been sustuned in a heavy gale on the morning of the ,18th August, when the ship was severely nipped off Cape Riley. The ice-nmster is of opinion, it was received in. Melville Bay, whilst forcing a passage under full steam through some heavy ice ; however this may be, I have little doubt, but that for the solid nature of the stowage of our hold, and the strengthenings fitted in England, we must have shared the same fate as the unfortunate " Breadalbane." 5. By the " Diligence," their Lords will have been informed of my proceed- ings up the time of my arrival at Disco. I will, therefore, now briefly state what we have since done, and then in obedience to the 5th clause of their Lord- ships' orders, relate what information I have obtained with reference to the Expedition, and the discoveries which have been made. 6. On leaving Disco, I proceeded with the " Breadalbane" in tow, to Upcr- navik, there to obtain dogs, and to communicate with the inspector of North Greenland, concerning the disposal of the " Rose" of Hull. On the afternoon of the 14th July we reached this place, and the ships heading off, whilst I landed, m two hours we proceeded up the coast. 7- The following day, passing Cape Shakleton in a calm, I took advantage of the fine weather, to obtain some looms from the rookery for the use of the Arctic ships, and in three hours we obtained a sufficient quantity to give each of our own vessels atiay's fresh meat, reserving enough to supply the " North Star's" crew with provisions for ten days, independent of the sheep we brought from Ireland. ir mti^niih'it au 'tliiti^is jj joL-,. '■r»iil ,j?toOa 'jniAf hili ad? tr' S»5!SS.=ISi*8»W»i»%«-i. Id 1 ! 8 On the l6th of July we entered Melville Bay. and found it packed with ice in some places very heav^ from recent pressure, und the land floe unfortunately oroken away, thus depnving um of the udvuiitugc of its edge for docking the vessels in case of a threatened nip. 9. On the 18th of July, owing to damage sustained in the ice, it became necessnry to shift the screw, and this was done whilst beset nniungst heavy floes almost out of sight of land. From the nmst-head no lend could be seen at mid-day, or indeed any water but the pool in which the Hliips were uflout ; but at midnight wc proceeded along a narrow lane which opened a way to the northward. 10. Thick togs and southerly winds which closed the ice up, |)rcvehtcd our gitting through Melville Bay till the 25th July, when we stretched away from ape York for Cape Warrendcr. Fog prevented our taking observations whilst crossing over, and experiencing a strong southerly set; wc found, on the weather clearing, that the ship was within two miles of Cape Liverpool, though wc had steered for Cape Warrendcr with due allowance for currents. Reaching <>vcr to the north shore, (which we then kept close on board,) we steered up I^ancuster Sound, passing large floes which were driving to the eastward. 11. On th(! morning of the 29th July we found a barrier of ice stretching from shore to shore, and which, evidently, had never broken away this season. We followed Us edge for several miles in the hope of finding a lane through, but were eventually obliged to bear up for Dundas Harbour, (in Croker Fiay) there to await a change. ' In coasting towards this anchorage we were surprised at beholding several tents pitched on a point six miles to the westward of Cape Warrenuer ; but shortly found them to be the habitations of a party of Esquimaux who had come over from Ponds Bay. Amongst these people I found many preserved meat and potato tins, the former bearing Mr. Goldner's name; candle boxes, some spars, and other Government stores, which led nie to fear that they had visited the dep6t at Wollaston Island. 12. In Dundas Harbour we lay for eight days anxiously awaiting the breaking up of the ice; and on the 6th August, hoping that I might be able to examine, and, if neceasary, remove the stores from Wollaston Island, wc got under weigh, and stretched across in that direction, but heavy hummocky ice prevented our even sighting it, and we were forced to bear up again for the north shore. By this time a light north-westerly wind had eased oft' the ice, and I determined to push on as far as practicable under steam ; the wind holding for forty-eight hours, we were fortunate enough to reach Becchey Island on the 8th August. In many cases the ice opened just as wc reached a block, h nich would other- wise have stopped our progress, and we were told by the officers of the " North Star" that no water was to be seen from Cape Riley the day before we arrived. Thus their Lordships will perceive that no time was lost in reaching our destination. 13. Erebus and Terror Bay was full of heavy hummocky ice, of great thick- ness, impervious to the saw or the blasting cartri(!ge, and too rough and too much inundated with deep fresh-water pools to admit the possibility of landing the stores on Beechey Island, or puttmg them on board the " North Star a mile and a half distant, according to my orders. 14. I had therefore no choice but to place them in what I deemed the most convenient und practicable position ; and, in my capacity us senior officer at Beechey Island, determined on Cape Riley as the httcst spot, and even more accessible than the island. Accordingly on the following morning we commenced our work; and having secured the transport in a bight of the land-ice, immediately abreast of a steep cliffy, the people were now set to work, watch and watch, night and day. To expedite tne service I ordered all hands to be sent from the " North Star," with their haiumocks, and desiring them to be victualled from our ship— the time was thus ^ved which would have been lost by their going and returning to their vessel, upwards of two miles and a half distant. 1.5. The steamer lay with her fires banked up, and the towing hausert in, ready at a tUMOiciitB mtiuiuu mi uikc luc liuiieujuiluii buuii: iu caac ui ttic icc viuoiiifj ^ and DOW everything neing set forward systematically, and 130 tons of coal landed in the mt thirty hours, I determined to proceed myself up Wellingtcn 18 vt Channel by boat and aledgc in ncarch of Captain Piillen, who had l)ecn unscnt from the " North Star" more than a month, anil, as his provisions must have been expended, there was some apprehension as to his safety. I had the double motive of deniring to convey to Sir Edward Hclchcr his despatches, as it would only be by such means ne c hands, as I intended to finish the work without cessation, if we laboured all night. 24. Whilst thus employed I received, by an official letter from Captain Pullen, B 3 'f er, whil»' rtn unnoitring from the top of a hummock, hr ns bio.... ot. iolcnt gust of viixi into a deep crack in the ice, and perisiK.i by drownn..^ V two mcti wtrt- nm'rd by a comparative miracle, and af^cr driving about )r thirtv hours without food were enabled to land and rf\n\n their fellow travellers, who gave them provix ih, and then all returned * > ship, bringing back in safety the despatches} but three of them fit subjecl. .ly for invaliding. A Rcpariit« letter will ifivp their Lordoliip further information relative to the death of this ex 'lent officer, who was sincerely regrett'') by us all. Mis zeal, ability, and quiet uuiip ming uninner made him indeed I oved. 99. The ice closing ag.. in obliged us to quit Cape Uiley before midnight, and in endeavouring to push tnc ships into a b<'yht in the land floe, the " Phoenix " touchea the ground, hut came off again immediately without damage. The whole night watt nncnt in .stiuggling to get the ships into a place of security, but the ice drove both vcRseU fast to the westward, when, at 3.30 A.M. of the 2lst August, the ice cloHing ail around, both vessels were secured to a floe edge ; but with steam ready to push through the instant the ice should loosen. 26. .Shortly, however, a ropid run of the outer floe to the westward placed the " Phrenix " in the most perilous position. I ordered the hands to be turned up, not that aught could be done, but to be ready in case of the worst to provide fur their safety. The ice, however, easing off, having severely nipped this vessel, passed astern to the " Breudalbane,** which ship either received the pressure less favourably, or was less equal to the emergency, for it passed through her starboard l)ow, and in less tnan fifteen minutes she sunk in thirty fathoms of water, giving the people barely time to save tlu inselves, and leaving the wreck of a boat only to mark the spot where the ice had closed over her. Anticipating such a catiistrophe, I got over the s'e ~ of the " Phcenix " as soon as the Transport was struck, and!^ was beside bci when she filled, and can unhesitatingly state that no human power could have saved her. Fortunately nearly the whole of the Government stores had been landed. Enclosed, a list, ma i L 2, sets forth the quantity < :u kind of stores that were landed A Cape ley and Beechey Island ; also, what was lost in the Transport. 27. H iving taken on br)ard the shipwrecked crew, every precaution wos used with regard to the safety of Her Majesty's steam vessel ; but it was not till the morning of the 22d Aogust that we succeeded in getting her to a safe position in Erebus and Terror Bay, where the ship was again secured to the lanu floe. 28. 1 now resolved to lose no time in getting to England ; but that I might have the advantage of the latest intelligence from tne Arctic Squadron, I determined upon takins the opinion of the ice master as to the latest date he considered I could safely remain at Beechey Island. Enclosure, marked L 3, is a copy of this report ; and now I must beg to refer their Lordships to the general order from the senior officer* delivered to me by Captain Pullen on nis return from Sir Edward Belcher, and, whilst their Lordships will readily understand how awkward was the position in which 1 tl ' . became placed, still it was not without very serious deliberation, the written opinion of Captair Pullen upon the subject, a copy of which I enclose, marked L 4, ana the authority as granted to the Senior Officer at Beechey Island by their Lordships Memo., 1 1th May 1853, that I replied to Sir Edward Belcher's order by a letter, the copy of which, i^vKkcd L 5, I enclose, and which I acted on, delaying till the last moment, (anu o days after my ice master advised our departure,) with the hope of Sir Edv . 1 Belcher's amval. 29. Their Lordship vr>i < U/Jt. be-"' ine out in the steps I have taken ; and though I feel how serio:;i "a : -^ r:?5K)R;.ibility I hr.ve thus incurred, it has been done with the single m('iivi> <>. i'iv: pablic good, and acting up to the ftill spirit of mv instructions. . .. .,„.......»..• ,-z I. > {, { MJ l iji i l s 'i iiil j n {;1 i 4jj i> H»nrii ' i ' - tT * I'l l •K- -Trrr-TT—rTT — i > a s< Wl |s li n > r'n i «l Mh w ,^ tl aa Oa the 8401 Augu* I Mii«i ttim Beecbiv Iiknd, bot mm ihoctly t'oroml to Uka «faf Iter in a littU) h»rl|our we ditoovcKd, aiki were obligtd to run into in a fog. Thi» narlmur, viKht inilm cait of (^apc Fv)lfb«)t, • ptnn of which 1 rncio««^ marked C 3, wan naoied Fort Cirahain, and ia a well ihclterrd poMition, with good anchorage and frcHh wi)tc Many ham were acen, and nine ihot. 31. Here wc lay during n viou nt gale from the eaatward, which wai ho furioui in the guiti that though th) »lii|) lay uiidrr the lee of a lofty hill, nho dro«re with two anchom ahead, until -Ue brou^i;!^ n]' in forty fathonu water. The gale itc-t vnitt l)odif!« ot hciv iVoin the nei^hbotirinir hill, and the irmperHture fulling rapidly, with the pruiipect nf an early wintef I bc-p^an to fear we hod founcf our winter quarters; indccil, it was a matter dcptuJ^nt entirely on the wind whether wc should get out thin eason. A watch was sci. ui report the state of the ice ; the ice masters and oHicers frequently visiting the look-out hill. On the morning of the 31st August the ice rommencc^l to move out of tVif hi:rl)our, and, carrying the ship with it, we narrowly escaped Iw'mu, driven 'no the pack, which was only prevented by slipping the cable (with i hawser •tti.rhed) and forcing the vessel under steam through a crack in the Hoe. 'I'hc II I . Hcr was cut through by the ice in endeavouring to weigh the itnchor, which wa.. thus lost. I now deemed it advisable for the safetv of the vessel to proceed to the inner bight of the harbour, which lying behind a shallow spit, iH-rfectly secured her from ice driving in or out, and, should we Ik> unable to get away this year, would prove a good position for winter quarters. I was ill prepared for such a contingency, as we had not left on hoard sufficient provisions for our now much-increased crew, having the wople of the three other vessels of my squadron with me, besides supemunnerarics and invalids. 32. In the evening a small crack along the north shore > the east* ward was observed, and we immediately tripped the anchor aixl teamed up, but it closed ere we could reach it ; wc thereiurc returned for the niLrht ; but m the morning, I was glad to find it again opened, and we proceeden inder full steam and sail, with a light northerly wind, towards the eastward. Nothing but a powerful steamer could have effected her escape at that period, md now, with one or two slight detentions for a couple of nours, we made oiit of the Straits, passing Cape Warrender on the morning of the 2d Septemb^T ; and here I beg you wiU call their Lordships' attention to this position as < me well applicable for a despatch rendezvous. 33. During my stay at Port Dundas (which is immediately under tho cliffs forming Cape warrender), 1 ordered a large cairn to be built on a remii "-kable rocky peninsula at its entrance. This cairn is upwards of sixteen feet in 1 ight, twenty feet in circumference, and painted red with a white cross ; its posi:ion is such, that a vessel sighting Cape Warrender must perceive it ; an channel to the northward umst have caused this deception. B 4 t-. •16 '■ ■,:./,--., ;■,..■.'':,' 35. Whilst the coaling was being completed, I made arraneements with the inspector of North Greenland concerning the disposal of the null and spars of the stranded whaler " Rose." For the more convenient disposal of her remains I blew her up, and having landed and placed under charge of the Governor the masts and ^pars, with a list of their prices (a copy of which, marked L 6, I enclose), we took on board for firewood such of the debris of the hull as would otherwise have been appro- priated by the Esquimaux, leaving the remainder convenient firewood for vessels touching there, to be obtained at 1 4*. a fathom, the price to be received by the Governor, and remitted through the Danish Government to the British Admi- ralty for the benefit of the underwriters. Having completed these arrangements, coaled, watered, and refitted, we were detained two days longer by a strong north-east gale, but on the morning of the 1 7th September proceeded to sea. 36. At Lievely I obtained information of a coal mine, about twenty-five miles from the harbour, on the southern shore of the island ; and I am told that the coal to be obtained here is in such quantities that a ship might take 1,000 tons. For burning in stoves it is preferred by the Dunes to hnglish coal. 1 obtained a sutticient quantity of an mferior sort to make trial in our boilers. A copy of the chief engineer s report I enclose ( Marked L 7). and I have retained on board four casks of this fuel for their Lordships' disposal. 37- On the 18th September I put into Holstcinborg to obtain sights to com- flete our meridian distances, and satisfy mc as to the rates of our chronometers, n this harbour (a complete survey of which was made by Mr. Stanton, the masttr, during our fir.it visit, and which is marked C 4,) we found the " True- love," Captain Parker, which had put in the day previously with her bow stove. She had received this damage amongst the ice in the gale of the previous Wednes- day. I rendered him every assistance with a carpenter and stores, and towed him to sea at daylight on ihe morning of the 20th September, carrying him out to an offing of sixty miles. He reports that all the whalers were caught amongst the ice in that gale, and he much feared they had received some damage ; but upon his acquainting me, they were all in such close company that the crews of any disabled vessels would surely escape to the others, I did not deem it neces- sary to delay my return to England by going over to the fisliing ground. Since rounding Cape Farewell, a succession of strong northerly and westerly A\ inds have favoured our return, and we sighted land on the 3rd instant. 38. And now. Sir, I beg to narrate in a summary manner the intelligence gleaned from the searching squadrons ; and, first with reference to Sir Eciward Belcher. I have little else to say but that he wintered in a spot he had named Northumberland Sound in latitude 76' H-J N., and longitude 97° W., near the position now marked in the charts of the Queen's Channel as Cape Sir John Franklin. From Captain Pullen I learnt that not the slightest traces of the missing expedition had been met with, either by this or the western branch of the searching squadron, and that it was evidently the intention of Sir Edward Belcher to return to Beechey Island as soon as possible. For the rest. Sir Edward's despatch will convey all further details. 39. Captain Kellett wintered at Dealy Island, Melville Island; he had a narrow escape of losing ;»Is ship on the night of his departure from Beechey Island : she grounded off Cape Collwuni, and was only got off after the ice had set down, upon her casting her over on her broadside, and with the loss of sixty feet of her false keel. It was a party from his vessel that discovered the despatch of Captain M'Clure at Winter Harbour, and was thus led to the " Investigator's" position, a brief account of the voyage and discoveries of which \ essel I will now relate. 10 'l^heir Lordships will remember that it was on the 6th of August, 185U, that the '• Investigator" was lost seen running to the north-eastward with studding sails set. They rounded Point Barrow with much difiieulty. At the River Colville, in 150" W., they were detained some days, and then thick ^veather, fogs, and contrary winds set in — the latter proving rather an advantage, as it kept the ice open ; and the necessity of working to windward Ijctwcen the I'olar pack and the gradually sloping shore gave tlicm the mrans of aviiidiiig dangers. On the 26th of August they reached the mouth of the Mackenzie, the pack at this part Iwing upwards of ninety miles distant. On the 30th, they were off Cape Bathurst. .'Vii M i:/ \ < '^i-: When at Cape Parry, open water to the northward induced Captain M'Clure to push for Banks' Land ; and when about sixty miles from this Cape they fell in with an unknown coast, whicli was named Baring Island. Passing up a strait between this island and a coast that was called Prince Albert Land, they reached the latitude of 73°. where ice impeded their further progress. The season suddenly changing, the ship was l)eset and forced to winter in the pack : drifting to the southward, they were ultimately frozen up in latitude 72° 40' N., longi- tude 117° 30' W. The travelling parties in the spring found no traces of tlie missing expedition, but discovered and laid down much of the adjacent coasts. On the 14th July IS.'jI, the ice broke up, and freeing the ship, an endeavour was made to push to the northward towards Melville Island, but an impenetrable pack in latitude 73° 'Mi' N., longitude 115° W. precluded their completing what their autumn travelling parties had proved to be the North West Passage. An attempt was now made to round the southern shore of Baring Island and proceed up the west side ; and with great peril to the vessel they succeeded in reaching as far as latitude 74° 6', and longitude 117° 12', where they were frozen in on the 24th September 1851, and have never since been able to move the ship. Their record was deposited at Winter Harbour the yoixr folloAving Commander M'Clintock's visit, whilst employed on Captain Austin's expedition. 41. There are two remarkable discoveries mentioned in Captain M'Clure's journal, viz., some smoking hillocks and a petrified forest. He also states that during his intercourse with the natives he only once met with any hostile demonstrations. This occurred at Point Warren, near the Mac- kenzie, where, on attempting to land, two natives with threatening gestures waved them oflf", it was not without nuich difficulty that they were pacified, and then they related that all their tribe, but the chief and his sick son, had Hcd on seeing the ship, alleging as a reason, that they feared they ship had come to revenge the death of a white man they had murdered some time ago. They (through the interpreter) related that some white men had come there in a boat, and that they built themselves a house and lived tlicre: at last the natives murderf^tl one, and the others escaped they know not wiierc, but the nundered man was buried in a spot they pointed out. A thick fog coming on prevented Captain M'Clure from examining this locality, which is nuich to be regretted, as here is the probable position, a boat party endeavouring to return by the Mackenzie would have encamped. 42. I have now only to state further for their I^ordships, information on this head, that Commander M'Clure had made arrangements for deserting the ship, to have been carried out a few days later than the opportune arrival of the officer from the " Resolute," and that Captain Kellett sent his surgeon to report upon the health of the crew. He also desired that should there not be amongst them twenty men who would volunteer to remain another winter, (.Japtain M'Clure was to desert his vessel. The " Intrepid " was expected at Beechey Island with the crew ; and Sir Edward Belcher had ordered the " North Star " to be prepared on her arrival to proceed to England, sailing on the 1st of Sep- tember, and to leave the " Intrepid " at Beechey Island in her stead. 43. I have now, in concluding the intelligence gained concerning the Arctic searching squadrons, to acquaint their Lordships of the dangerous position in which the " North Star" passed the winter. Shortly after I left Beechey Island last year in my yacht the " Isabel," a violent gale whicii I encountered in the Straits, drove the " North Star " on shore, where she remained during the whole winter, and was only got ofi" this spring W'th much difficulty, 44. Herewith I enclose a chart showing the tracks of the vessels of ir.y squadron on their outward voyage, and this vessel homeward also, the several alterations and additions made in the coast line of Greenland. This is marked (! 5, also a chart on Mercator's plan marked C 6, showing the North ^Vest Passage, with all the latest discoveries, and the coasts explored by each expe- dition up to this date, in search for the missing squadron. From C 1 to C 6 are the siu'veys and plans made during the voyage, and alluded to in this dispatch. From L 1 to L 7 are the copies of letters therein spoken of, and enclosures M ',*, to M 10 are copies of the memorandums and orders issued by me as senior officer at Beechey Island. The drawings and sketches from D 1 to D 24 are made exhibiting several positions of the ships during the and headlands, coastline, and views C ani{;r rioi'' Captain In'olbfIeu) to Lieutenant Elliott. By Edwabd a. Inolefield E8Q.,*Commander of the Relief Arctic Expe- ^', dition, and Senior Officer at Beechey Island. Dbemino it necessary for the perfect completion of the service on which this expedition is employed, that a boat should proceed up Wellington Channel, to endeavour to communicate with Captain Pullen, and obtain the despatches of Sir Edward Belcher, I have determined upon proceeding myself. I intend leaving this ship on the 10th instant, and have now to direct, that should casualty, or any unforeseen circumstance prevent my returning to Beechey Island before the end of the present month, that you proceed with the Transport to Lievely ; and from thence, having supplied Her Majesty's Steam Vessel with the coal, on board that vessel, you lose no time in proceeding to England in the fiill execution of the orders under which I am acting. I have so constantly imparted to you my views and intentions, as to our general proceedings, that I deem it needless to enter into the minor details, in which you will at once perceive it will become your duty to act, should I not return within a reasonable time to Beechey Island, and though I consider it most improbable this should occur, I am desirous that I should rather be left behind, than that the full spirit of the instructions of my Lords Commissioners should not be fully and certainly complied with. A duplicate copy of these and other orders I enclose for your general guidance, and I have only to add my belief that you will use a proper discrimi- nation between leaving me unnecessarily behind, or lingering dangerously long in these treacherous climes. Accompanying these you will receive the orders I have drawn up for the guidance of Commander Francis M'Clintock on his arrival. Given under my hand, &c., oft" Cape Riley, the 9th day of August, 1853. E. A. Inqlefielo. ■ • " ■ No.4. ^' ■■^: ■ '■■■ ■ •' ■ ' ■ ■^■'r' Commander Pgllen to Captain Inglefielo. H. M. S. " North Star," Sir, Beechey Island, 20th August 1853. It is my melancholy duty to inform you that two of my men who left this ship with Lieutenant Bellot, have just returned with the sad intelligence of, I fear, his being drowned. The particulars of an examination of the two men I have entrusted to Lieutenant Cresswell, who was present at the time; it is in a rough shape, but being anxious that you should be made acquainted with the sad event, I deemed i,t necessary to despatch him immediately. The despatches arc safe, the men having brought them back. I have there- fore to request your opinion as to whether, from the state of the ice in the channel which Lieutenant Cresswell will inform you of, it is advisable to des- patch another party or not immediately, to endeavour to communicate with Sir Edward Belcher. . . ■ ' 1 have, &c., W. J. S. Pullen, Commander.' No. 5. Commander Inolefield to the Secretary of the Admiralty, Reporting the death of Lieutenant Bellot, of the Frencli Imperial Navy. Sir, Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Phoenix." It is my very painful duty to acquaint you, for the information of my Lords Connuissioncrs of the Admiralty, of the death of M. Bellot, Lieutenant of the Frencii Marine, who was appointed to this ship on the 15th April last, by their Lordships, as supernumerary. Tliis gallant officer met with his death by drowning, whilst away on a travelling party up Wellingtou Chituel, whither ne had volunteered to go to seek for me. Captain Pullen had, however, availed himself of his experience in Arctic travelling to send forward their Lordships' despatches to Sir Edward Belcher. C 2 t'I fr ^80 The men who accompanied M. Bellot returned eight days after their departure, stating that on the evening of Wednesday, the 17th August, the party were landing from the floe by means of the india-rubber boat, when the ice suddenly broke up, leaving M. Bellot and two men still afloat. The former, after making arrangements (by building a barricade with snow) to protect the men from the gale, which had set it, went to the top of a hummock, close to a crack five fathoms wide, and not returning shortly to the shelter, the men went out to seek for him, and could find nothing but the short stick he carried in his hand floating on the water ; they have no doubt he was drowned as they remained on the floe thirty hourn after, and never saw a trace of him. By a miracle they succeeded in landing after this period at a spot a short distance from where the two other mon had got on shore. The independent evidence of the four men plainly proves the correctness of their statement, and there cannot be a doubt that poor M. Bellot was blown off' the hummock into the crack by a violent gust of wind, when he indubit- ably perished by drowning, as unable to swim, he was much hampered with stiff wet clothes, and a southwester tied under his chin. The loss of this gallant officer has been deeply felt by all on board, for his amiable qualities, and bold adventurous disposition hud rendered him Ireloved by all who knew him. I am, &c., E. A. iNCiLKFiELD, Commaudcr. No. 6. Secretary of the Admiralty to H. U. Addington, Esq. Sir, Admiralty, 7th October 1853. I AM commanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to send you herewith for the information of the Earl of Clarendon, a copy of a letter from Commander Pullen, of Her Majesty's ship " North Star," dated Beechey Island, 20th August, 1853, and an ext' ict of a letter from Commander Inglefield, of Her Majesty's steam vessel " PI enix," dated 4th instant ; and my Lords cannot sufficientlv express the regret wiich they have to convey the intelligence of the melancholy death of Lieutenant HcUot of the French navy to Lord Clarendon. The generous devotedness of Lit : ' ' nant Bellot to the humane and honourable igh talents, the many admirable qualifi- is a service, and his engaging character arage and energy in carrying through cause in which he was engaged, hi cations possessed by him for so arc! and manners, added to his manl\ whatever enterprise he was engaged ration of their Lordships, and the with whom he was embarked. had already secured to him the admi- ctionate esteem of his comrades and all 1 have, &c., W. A. B. Hamilton. No. 7. Secretary c»i the Admiralty to Commander Inglefield. Sir, Admiralty, 7th October 1 853. Having laid l)efore my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty your letter of the 4th inst., received this day, I am commanded to convey to you the expres- sion of their Lordships' great satisfaction at your proceedings. My Lords higlily approve of the firmness, energy, and great good judgment with which you have carried out their instructions, and of all the steps }ou have taken in the execution of their orders ; aiu'. their Lordships desire that you will convey to the officers, seamen, and ui;uiiies employed under your command, including the master, second master, and crew of the " Breadalbanc," tlie like expression of their Lordships' high approxal of the manner in which you speak of their having done their duty. I am further commanded not to conclude this despatch without signifying the deep regret with which my Lords have heard of the untimely death of an officer so much esteemed by them as Licuteiinnt neilot of t'ne French navy. I 'im, iVc, \y. A. n. Hamilton. '" TTniTiiimi 21 ■•,v.' .', No. 8. Secretary of the Admiralty to Commander Inglefield. Sir, Admiralty, 7th October 1853 My Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty having been pleased to sign a commission promoting you to the rank of Captain in Her Majesty's Navy; I have their Lordships commands to acquaint you therewith, and that your commission is with the Chief Clerk of this OflBce. I urn, &c., R. OSBOBNE. Captain Inolefield to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London. Sir, Admiralty in Waiting, 8th October 1853. I HAVE the honour to acknowledge the very handsome letter their Lordships have been pleased to forward to me, in reply to my statements of the proceed- ings of the expedition with which I was entrusted, and in doing so, I feel that it is as much my duty as my pleasure to be able to convey to their Lordships my testimony as to the ample and very efficient assistance I have at all times received from my second in command. Lieutenant W. Elliott, whose services upon Captain Austin's expedition arc too well known to require comment from me. To the qualities of an able officer he has exhibited those of an experienced seaman, most especially during tlie time of his being in command of the "Dili- gence" tender, and during the period when my necessary absence I'rom the ship, on the journey up Wellington Channel, leit him in a responsible situation. I cannot close this letter, in which I beg especially to call Lieutenant Elliott's claims before their Lordships' notice, without bearing my unqualified testimony to the zeal and ability displayed by every officer in the expedition; and in doing so, I must individualise the master, Mr. Stanton, whose surveys, observations, and angle-books bear the fullest testimony not only to his abilities as a master, but his qualities as a surveyor. He, moreover, has shown that continued exer- tion in the prosecution of the services on which we were employed, which has (in the absence of a second lieutenant in this expedition) fallen especially heavy on him, and merits my perfect approbation. I am, &c. E. A. Inglefiklu. IV. Lieutenant Cresswell's l^etter, 7tli October 1853, announcing his Arrival with Despatches from Captain M'Clure, communicating the Proceedings of Her Majesty's Ship " Investigator," and Discovery of the North- VV^est Passage. No. 1. Lieutenant Cuesswkli. to the Secretary of the Admiralty. Sir, I havk the honour to acquaint you, for the information of the Lords Com- missioners of the Admiralty, of my arrival in L(mdon this morning with Captain Inglefield of Her Majesty's ship " Phtiniix," having been charged with Com- mander M'Clure's despatches, by Captain Kcllett of Her Majesty's ship " Resolute," which are herewith transmitted, together with a copy of the orders I received from Commander M'Clure and Captain Kellett. I have the greatest satisfaction in reporting, that during the prolonged service on which we were employed in search of the crews of the missing ships, we liavc only lost three men in the spring of the present year. 1 left the " Investigator" on the loth of April last, in the Harbour of Mercy, latitude 74" 6' North, longitude 117" 45' West, and crossiug the ice vvith sledges, reached the " Resofuto" at Melville Island, on the '.?d of Mav. C 3 til Assisted by a party from the •^Resolute," I reached the "North Star," Beechy Island* on the 32d June, witit Lieutenant Wyiiniatt, whom it gives me great pleasure to speak of in the highest terms. ■ ■ ' - I have, &c., • (%'■ ) i.;R.i--J., ivia,i Kellrtt, C.B., to Lieutenant Cresswell. It being of importance that an officer of Her Majesty's ship " Investigator," should reach England by the earliest opportunity, and it being ])ossible that these ships may not break out this season, You will take charge of Commander M'Clure's despatches, delivering them to the commanding officer of the " North Star," who will cause ropies to be made of them for Sir Edward Belcher's information, and return you the original, sealed, for conveyance to England. You will accompany Mr. Roche, mate, who has charge of the party, with instructions to victual you and Mr. Wynniatt, whose health is such as to require an innnediate return to England. Given under my hand, on board Her Majesty's ship " Resolute," at Dealy Island, 7th May, 1853. Henrv Kellett, Captain. aa. Proceedings of* Captain M'Clure, of Her Majesty's Discovery Ship "Investigator,' in soarcli of the Expedition under Sir John ,, Franklin, from Aufjiist IR.W to April 1853, and reporting !.' the Discovery of the North- West Passage. Xt ! .)-'Ji\' IIJ. ■ '■ No. 1. .... Comftiandcr Robebt M'Clurr to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London. H. M. D. S. " Investigator," Bay of Mercy, Baring's Island, Sir, lOth April 1853. I HAVE the honour to forward to you for the information of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty the narrative of the proceedings of Her Majesty's Ship under my cuuuuand from the period of parting company with Captain Kellett, of the " lieruld," off Cape Lisbume, m August 18.50 to the present date, and trust that the course which I have adopted in endeavouring to carry out my instructi'ns us regards the search of the Expedition under Sir John Franklin into efllect, will meet with the approval of their Lordships ; like- wise, that the division of my crew, in the hopes of being able to save the ship, and failing that, to meet the contingency of another winter, which, by any other means would have been impossible, us, should wc not get as far as Port Leopcild this season, next April we must of necessity quit the ship, taking away the last ounce of provisions, from which their Lordships may observe that perseverance Avill have been carried to the utmost extent, famine alone causing our desertion of the vessel. ... I have, &c., lioBKRT M'Clure, Commander. ■■ . r s No. 2. ■ '■ ■■ To the Chief Trader of the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Good Hope, North America, (or any of the Company's OflScers). Her Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator," Sir, ' 24th August 1850. I have to request that you will cause the accompanying despatch for the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to he forwarded with the least possible delay, so that if it is practicable, it may arrive this year ; you are aware of the great interest that is attached to this expedition, and consequently all informa tion regarding its progress will be considered of the utmost importance. I feel convinced it is unnecessary to urge you to exertion in the performance of this duty ; the Honourable Company with which you are connected having with great liberality, zeal, and beneficence, expressed their desire to render every assistance in forwarding the views not only of Her Majesty's Government, but that of the nation at large, in facilitating the search for the missing expedi- tion under Sir John Franklin. It is impossible for me to suggest any method by whicii this despatch may be carried, whether by Indians specially engaged for the purpose, or throtigh your nsiml communication, only permit me to beg that the most expeditious method may be pursued, and let the expenses attend- ing its transmission be placed to the account of the " Arctic Searching Expedition." I have, &c., Robert M'Clure, Conmiander. No. 3. To the Chief Trader of the Russian Fur Company, North America. Her Britannic Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator," nth August 1850, off Jones' Island. Sir, The discovery ships under Sir John Franklin sailed from England in 1845, and were last seen in Ba£5n's Bay in July in that year, steering for Lancaster Sound. C4 \U: 24 The uid of the officers of the UuMsiuii Fur Company is eunicstly solicited in the humane endeavour to rescue such of the missing crews as may succeed in reaching the shore of this Continent. And it is conceived that this mny be effectually rendered by oflTering to the Esquimaux and Tchutski the promise of a liberal reward of kettles, saws, knives, beads, ond such other articles of commerce as they covet, for any effectual relief afforded to any Avhite men that may l)e cast on their coasts, and for conducting them in safety to a neighbouring I'ur post. The English Admiralty will defray the expense of such rewards, on application. I am, &c., lloHT. M'Clurk, Conmiandor. No. 4. Commander M'Cuirk to the Skchktahv ok tmi: Admihai.tv, London. Her Britannic Majestv's Discovery Ship " Investigator," off Jones Island, to the Eastward of Keren's Point, Lat. 70° Mi' N., Long. l.'iO" 16' W. Sir, nth August 1850. I 8KND this by an Esquimaux boat, with the hope of its conveying the intelli- gence of our progress to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty through the Russian Fur Company. We parted company with the " Herald," off Cape Lisburnc, upon the Illst ultiitiu; made the ice in latitude "2° 1' N., longitude 166' 12' W., found the pack exceedingly close and heavy extending K.N.E. to W.N.W., worked along Its margin until the .'jth instant, and then shaped u course tor Wainright's Inlet ; in running, e.\, -hanged numbers with the " Plover;" at 11. HO a.m. made a low l)each, distant about two miles; weather very thick running entirely by the lead from 14 to J'-i tiithoms, in which latter water, rounded Point Barrow at about 11. '10 I'.M. without, however, sieing it. Shaped a course for Bankes's Land through loose sailing ice ; next morning, August 6th, the weather cleared, found that we had been running towards the Eack which was impenetrable, extending from S.E. to S.W., (bv the north) ; auled to the wind and connnenced working to tlie southward; upon the after- noon of the 7th, got clear of the ice into Smith's Bay. At 2 a.m. of the 8th, erected a cairn, and left a notice of oiu- passing upon Point Drew; several natives came on board, who had arrived but three days previous, had seen no other \essel ; stated the water would be open along the siiore during the sum- mer, from about three to five miles in width. In running along the coast to the eastward, several Baidars came off, said thev had not seen any white men, except some in boats last summer going east, { which I suppose to be Lieutenant Pullen) ; sent a letter by them containing infoniiation for their Lordships. Landed a notice upon Point Pitt, off which tlie ship grounded in stays, but was shortly hove afloat without any damage. Ivxperienced much difficulty in rounding Cape Halket from ice being set close to sliore, allowing only the space of from ',\l to 4?, fathoms to work through. August 1 Ith, inane Jones's Island eastward of Harrison's Bay; erected a cairn, and loft a notice; several natives came off"; no intelligence of any description. I am. Sir, ixc, UouKHT M'CixHK, Commander. Commander M'Clcri: to the Skcuktauv ok riii: Admihai.tv, London. Her Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator," off Point Warren, Polar Sea, Latitude 69" 43' North, Longitude 1.31° .')7' West. Sir. •i4tli Aiimist IH.'iO. I HAVK the honour to report to you, for the information of the Ijords Com- missioners of the Admiralty, that we anived off the Mackenzie upon the 21st 95 ^'f^- in^tant, the letters that I forwarded by Her Miyestv's ship " Hcnld," Ax' the pack, the wind, however, failing before we got far in, I was induced to i out to avoid being bcHet, having ascertained that the pack was very close and heavy extending from E.N.E. to W.N.W., and seemg no hope of getting through, worked along its edge, in soundings from 24 to 26 fathoms (mud), the hundreds of walruses that were lying upon the ice, thickly huddled together like sheep in a fold, was most astonishing, we continued working along the ice, occasionally getting hit which being answered irom the boats, perfectly assured them pt' our ap- ,■,■■ intentionti. Upon landing they evinced a most manly confldeooe, rubbing '^nm, and embracing moHt vigoruu8ly. ThcHc were very cleanly, so that the uitettttioB wa8 not tto unplcuHant an it otherwise might have l)cen. Throiugh tbr interpreter, Mr. MicrtNching, we learned that these people hud never before seen aKuropeon, or had they the smallest article of European manufacture about them, (Lieu- tenant PuUen's boats they observed last year, but they were some distance off, and consequently had no communication). They uve during the smnmer months upon these desolate islands, and in the wmter retire a abort distance on the mainland to their warmer residences. Their women and tents ware upon another island ; they were a fine active set of young men, average height about 5ft. 6in. ; these barter their skins, Jkc. with a trilie further west, who in their turn do the same with others, until they reach the Russian post upon the Colville. To them I entrusted a despatch for their Lor4ships, which they promised most faithfully should be forwarded to the Colville. I made them u few presents, also u boat's ensign, in commemoration of the first inun of war whose flau has ever floated in these sterile regions. 'Vhe magnificence of the gift they could not for some time comprehend, and were loth to touch it, but at length the interpreter mode them understand it was sent them by a great chief, and in return they were to be very kind to all white men they met, and show it to them. All this they promised; the chief then seized it in his arms and ran across the island to his canoe, followed by tho remainder of his tribe, and no doubt hurried with the joyful tidings to the women. We find a westerly set, which prevents our making but slight progress, the wind hanging so much to ihe eastward. On the morning of the 12th four baidars came alongside, containing the whole encampment of the t^'ibe we met last night, and also some that we had seen two days previous, from which it appeared they are migratory ; they brought off a supply of fish and a quantity of venison, but the latter was in such a high stntt of putrefaction we could not touch it ; we allowed most of the men to come on board, and although well aware of their knavish propensities and conse()uently a sliarp lookout was kept upon them, they most adroitly managed to slip both handles of our winch and a small ice anchor into their baidar, when the fair sex became the recipients ; it was by the greatest accident the theft was discovered, by t!ie end of one handle protruding from beneath the ample proportions of the lady, who when taxed, immediately returned the articles and informed upon her husband ; for this immorality the whole boat was exempted from receiving any present. Working to the eastward, observed a few deer upon one of the low islands, but was prevented sending any boat as a S. E. current was setting us in to shoal water very fast, so that all the boats were required to tow until 8 p.m., when a light air ran us to the westward into six fathoms. The loose ice was in rapid motion, and the larger floe pieces as they passed appeared to create a current which frequently turned the vessel completely round against helm and sails, the power of a two-knot breeze being insufficient to counteract it. Upon the morning of the 1 3th we were enveloped in u dense fog, amongst exceedingly heavy and close sailing ice, through which we attempted to work ; but found that, endeavouring to avoid one piece, we ran upon another, striking occasionally with great force, which determined me to secure to a floe imtil it cleared ; in this we fortunately succeeded, getting one that was groimded in seven fathoms ; it was a heovy piece, but not so much so as many that were about us. I took its height above the water in seven places, which gave an average of lift. llin. ; a pack chiefly composed of such would be too powerful a foe for any ship long to contend against. At 8 a.m. of the 14th, it having cleared a little, slipped from the floe and commenced working to the eastward amongst masses of ice. At 10.30 a.m., observed a shoal just in time to avoid it ; it was completely hidden from view off deck, not bemg as high as the ice, having a quantity of driftwood upon it, which is in great abundance along the whole coast. At 3.30 p.m. our course was impeded by another of these low islands, which had the ice resting upon its northern extreme, while the southern point was flanked by a shoal, which connected it with the island seen in the morning ; we were thus perfectly hemmed in, the boats were sent to sound when Mr. Court represented a passage practicable in three fathoms; in running through we unfortunately hit upon a spot with only D 2 I / '2^ t'sthomt, which had neaped ubaenution i we had contttiiuently to lialiten the vcNiel coniiderably Iwroit" nhc pot off, which howcvor wiis acfoniplinhi'(l without any damage (the liottotn being sand) by 1 1 I'.m., havin|( bc>i>n on shore five hours. I regret to add that elevi ii caNiiH of xalt meat, whicii were pinocd in the flrtt whale boat, were lost by her upHetting, being compelled tn place the provisiooR in the whalert, the cutten having the Dower anchors in them ; this it a serious loss, indeed an irreparable calamity. As N(M)n hh wc were off, it was my wish to return by the way we came in, but found that the ice had net upon the shoal we had first observed, and cut off our retreat, under which circum- stances I was obliged to anchor and wait a change of wind. V]wn the Kith the wind came slightly from the westward, which set the ice in motion off the north point of the isTancf. At 9 a.m. weighed, and towed to the edge of the ice, which presented a barrier of about 000 yards in width between us and the open water wc wished to get into, wc commenced warping at 'i p.m., iind ho heavy was the ice that it was not until H p.m. that wc could get through : it fcD calm, so made fast to the ice for the night. Next morning, the 1 7tn, a very thick fog with light N.E. wind, and at 4 a.m. commenced kcdging to the eastward, but at 7 A.M. gave it up { the wind freshened, and unable to see for fog ; at two P.M. it clean d, wc slipped from the ice and plied to the N.E. amidst heavy streams and lort'e floe pieces, vessel striking violently but tinavoidubly against them.— 1 8th. 1 j-day from the mast-head observed the first lone of open water in the pack, eztendmg east and west several miles but very narrow ; in the evening a fresh breeze from S.W., and almost simultaneously a slight pitching motion was observed, which is considered an infallible symptom oi open water being near ; it was so fogg3' that nothing could Ix* seen, but notwithstanding I shaped a course N.N.W. for Banks's Land, thinking that we had rounded the pack, having coasted it between 400 and ."iOO miles, wc continued the greatest part of the night to run without much obstruction, but upon the following morning, the 19th, our progress was checked by finding that we had run into a deep bight, which comjpelled us to work back again to the S.E 2()th. IV-fore getting cleor of this pacK into which we had penetrated a considerable distance, being decoyed by a few lanes of open water, we were compelled to run seventy miles south, which placed us in latitude 69° 50' N. longitude 1.16° .50' W. it is seldom that observations can be obtained, this being only the sixth set since the .')th of the month, the fog and mist being more continuous than I ever remember to have met elsewhere. — August 21st. Have succeeded in getting again into cleur water ; at 1 P.M. made the Pelly Islands off the mouth of the Mackenzie ; the coast 18, however, so excessively shoal that I find it impossible to reach the inuinland which I was very anxious to accomplish, but at the ilistance of 40 miles from it was obliged to tack in 3^ fathoms ; we passed the line of its tide most distinctly marked about ten miles further North, the water being the colour of the Thames at Woolwich, slightly brackish, and its temperature 39°, the sea four hours previous being 28°. I'rom what I have obscrvea of the pack I feel con- vinced that any attempt to reach Banks's Land through it, wouin only terminate in failure and the consequent loss of valuable time ; but by working lietwccn its edge and the shore have confidence in making a good advance this season, it is therefore my intention to pursue the latter method, and in so doing deviate from my original purpose of pushing into the ice, as mentioned in my letter to their Lordships dated the 19th July. — August 22d. Fog during the whole of the night very dense, but having much open water upon the eastern shore from the Mackenzie towards Cupe Bathurst, nad no difficulty in working along it, in soundings from four to eight fathoms, which latter was the extent tha* t!ie ice permitted us off shore. At noon a slight clear discovered to us a cluster of islands, which by a very indifferent observation (latitude 69° 34' N., longitude 1.35° 9' W.) point them out as those' of Pelly. — August 23d. A fine clciir day, the temperature rising to 40° at noon, made the northern extreme of Richard Ibland from the masthead, and by a good observation established our position, latitude 69° 54' N., longitude 133° 48' W., the water towards the shore being perfectly clear of ice, which agrees with the account given by Sir John Richard- son, that the natives obserA'e no ice for two moons, but these never quit the land any distance, for were they to extend their excursions ten miles further north than our position they would find the pacK solid and impenetrable ; this, how- ever, gives ample Bpacc for navigation, tiie soundings being so exceedingly regular that during the most foggy weather we can stand in shore \vith the most perfect confidence to 3^ fathoms. A whale was seen to-day, being only the 4. as thiiti Hiiice rounding Point Barrow, although upon thr dny wv were off that point Hcvpn were rountod.— AugUHt 24th. C)b«rvTd hutn nnd natives off Point Wnrrcn. I haHtily close tijin cotnnninication in the hopes of its reaching their Lordiihipji) thin year, through Fort (Jood Hope, as I imagine theHC people com- municate with the Mh' kenzic. I have written to the Comnnny'M officer ot the ttbovc-nicntione/yii I have, &c. . ,; ^i.i ;i;.i .uu?; ■ ..,^i« •!{{ .) .;4ijo;i": .1 .' RoBERT M'Clure, Commander. , No. 7. Commander M'Cluhe to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London Her Miyesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator," off Cape Bathurst, Polar Sea, ;,:".:.. ,; latitude 70° 28' N., longitude 128° 33' W. • ' ' Sir, (30th August 1850.) In accordance with the intention expressed at the conclusion of my last letter, I proceeded in the first whale boat accompanied by Dr. Armstrong and Mr. Miertsching, followed by Lieutenant Cresswell and a party of officers in a cutter, bringing a variety of presents ; we were met. upon landing, by two females who greeted us very cordially, and through the medium of the inter- preter, acquamted me that the remainder of the tribe were at Cape Bathurst catching whales, which was at no great distance, and they would be our guides. Gladly availing ourselves of this apparently fortunate incident, the boats were directed to pull along shore, while we, ascending the cliffs, reached a fine level plain extendmg several miles north and south, rich with verdure and abounding m moss : preferred walking, hoping to meet some reindeer, for which the pasture was excellent ; but mile after mile was walked without any appearance of the fishing party ; airiving, after the expiration of three hours, in a small bay, we were, however, gratified at being told this was the spot where two boats, the year before last, had pitched their tents for the night, (^Sir J. Richardson,) and we had to go a very little further; on reaching the next bay, we found there two tents, which our guides said belong to them, but the cape or any appearance of the tribe could not be seen; we declined going any further, as in consequence of the wind falling light, the vessel was by this time hull down ; we were then kindly invited to become partakers of their tents, and go on the next morning, which hospitable offer was not accepted; but bartering several articles in exchange for salmon, and making them a few presents, we returned on board, when at 10.30 P.M., it becoming dark and foggy, and getting into 3^ fathoms, we anchored for the night. August 31st, at daylight, found that we were between the mainland and Bailley's Islands ; about a mile from the latter, the weather still foggy with a moderate N. W. breeze ; but determined if possible to discover the fishing party ; at 7.30 A.M. I left the ship with Mr. Miertsching and Dr. Armstrong in the cutter, and after coasting about ten miles, discovered upon the extremity of Cape Bathurst, a large encampment consisting of thirty tents and nine winter houses, numbering a little over three hundred people. Upon landing upon a very low isthmus, which connects within a few yards the islands and mainland, we remarked a commotion at tlie village, and a number of men rushed down the cliffs, launched their kyacks and crossed to meet us ; hauhng these light and elegant skiffs on the beach, they advanced with knives drawn and bows bent, evidently prepared for hostilities ; finding by our jestures that our intentions were amicable, their bows were returned to their sealskin cases, but the knives they still retained. The interpreter told them that our visit was friendly, and that they should put away their knives, " Yes," said they, " when yon do your D4 % ill ' Jl 111 >U 32 I. guns." To be allowed to carry the musket appeared a great favour, for which they presented you with their knife as a token of friendship. We remained upwards of an hour ; during the greater part of the time Mr. Miertsching was in pamest conversation with the chief, a fine intelligent middle-aged man, upon the necessity of his forwarding our despatches to the *' Mackenzie," which he promised most faithfully to perform, for which he was to receive a musket and ammunition; and upon his delivering the packet, a further reward, equal in' value to a silver fox skin ; he, however, said that their tribe do not trade with the " Mackenzie," but with another further south, who, in their turn traffic with the Indians who are in the servif^e of the Hudson's Bay Company ; so as they have to pass through three tribes of the heathen before they come into the hands of civilized man, I think it extremely probable that they may never reach their destination; Mr. Miertsching, from his knowledge of the Esquimaux character, thinks otherwise, and imagines that the chief will himself carry them. The perfect case which this gentleman understands and converses with these interesting people surprises them ver^- much ; they were most anxious for him to remain, promising to be very kind The chief presented his daughter, a very pretty girl of about fifteen, which should be his wife, — tents, and all appurtenances were to be added. While these negotiations were going fonvard, upwards of a hundred persons had descended from the village ; with such a concourse, I did not think it prudent to open the bag containing the presents, well knowing their cupidity is easily excited by the display of such valuables, when they are not to be relied on. We consequently returned to the boat ; when the chief was instructed in the use of his gun ; he showed himself an apt pupil, and when the ammunition was given into his hands, expressed himself very much gratified at the gift, and walked towards the village with his chief men. A line was then made on the beach, which the recipients of gifts were not to 5 ass, (and this ♦hc} perfectly understood) ; the interpreter then commenced the istribution ; for a little time order was maintained, but the fair sex becoming clamorous and closing round, the line was broken, and to prevent being driven into tlie water, we were compelled to retreat to the boat which was lying aground about twenty yards from the l)each. By this mananivre we escaped from all that had not on water-tight boots ; but still about forty surrounded the cutter, and although all the crew were stationed round her to prevent their getting on board, so eager and persevering were the women, that several were fifted in, endeavouring to seize everything within their reach ; one of them, in the most dexterous manner, slipped the compass out of its box into the breast of her jacket, and with difficulty it was recovered; it was only by great firmness and stoppage of the supolies that we reduced them to order, or to quit the boat. The presents being at length distributed and every one in good humour, we wished them farewell, and commenced launching the boat, in which operation they most vigorously assisted, and seventeen in their fairy kyacks escorted us to the ship, arriving about a quarter of an hour before we did, except one, who having got some little distance oif the shore, encountered a fresh breeze and rough sea: we shortened sail and took boat and all in, — the poor fellow being drenched, we offered him a little brandy, which he drank at a mouthful, not being aware of its strength ; he suffered the sensation to subside without evincing (except by his eyes watering) any symptom of vexation, and then asked for water. Many came on board the shin, but only one ventured below, who was exceedingly surprised to find tliat we had not tents but houses, (cabins), and said he should have many wonderful things to relate when he went home. This tribe is a fine intel- ligent race, cleanly, handsome, and well grown ; and I deeply regret that so little has been hitherto attempted in civilizing them, and sincerely hope that the day is not lar distant when this interesting people may be redeemed from their deplo- rable state of heathen darkness. Surely the Hudson's Bay Company would find it to their advantage, even in a commercial point of view, to civilize these people, and supply them with traps and guns, &c., instead of allowing them to kill game with their present inefficient weapons ; thousands of skins would thereby annually be added to what they now receive. But, feeling that higher motives will impel that Company to seek tribes inhabiting this bleak frontier of their territories, and, by the aid of intelligent and energetic missionaries, endeavour to lead them from their present hopeless state to the blessings of Christianity, has induced me to give publicity to a fact which, I am con- fident, requires only to be kno\sii to the many philanthropic gentlemen connected with that Company to ensure it being speedily redressea. At 5.40 P.M. we weighed with a moderate breeze from the S.W. and reached to the S.E. for the purpose of clearini^ the Baillie Islands ; at nine, tacked and stood to the N.W. The wind bec< aing light and variable during the night we made but little progress, and a 8 a.m. on the morning of September 1st observed Cape Bathurst N.E.E. six miles. In the course of the forenoon many kyacks came oiF; the natives, now assured of our friendly intentions, came on board without the sligliest reluctance, and through the medium of the interpreter acquainted us that during the night they had been preparing a least, roasting whale and venison, and had salmon, blubber, and other delicacies, besides plenty of skins ready at the tents, and hoped we would come on shore, which, indeed I should very much have enjoyed had the vessel been in a less precarious position: but under the present circumstances it was impossible, which it appeared that those on shore understood, for in the afternoon a great many of both sexes joined us, and all being clamorous to get on board, we were obliged to take their kyacks on deck. Seeing their boats were in safety, they made themselves perfectly at home, examining every article of furniture most minutely. The pictures and looking glasses in the officer's cabins were objects of much admiration. Many were dancing with our men. and so mutually happy were all parties, that it was near six o'clock before I could get them to k-ave the ship ; indeed, had not the interpreter told them that we were going towards the pack, and would not again come near their tents, I very much question if we should have got them away without compulsion. We understand from them that the main pack is permanent, never leaving the shore above twelve or four- teen miles. They designate it as " The Land of the White Bear," as it abounds with the se animals, which they appeared rather to dread, as when we stood towards the pack in the forenoon, they entreated not to be left there as they were fearful of the bear now that so many of their women were with them. One mother mentioned that she had her little child carried away by one of them a short time previous while playing on the shore a little distance from her : the poor creature shed tears m relating the catastrophe. At parting, several presents were bestowed upon them, which had the effect of eliciting promises of friend- ship for us or any of our white brethren who might come on their coast. These people had no article of European manufacture, except a few iron pots, which certainly they gave a very formidable price for, no less than five of the best silver fox skins for each. The tribe leave the cape about the 20th September when the ice is sufficiently strong to bear their sledges, for the purpose of barter- ing with the bordering tribe. They then go to their winter houses some distance inland, with the exception of a few families who live the entire year upon this bleak and inhospitable shore September 2d, fine day with light northerly wind, ran along the pack edge, the ice being heavy and impenetrable, not a drop of wi V to be seen from the masthead amongst it ; the water between it and the sho.e is practicable, although encumbered with much loose ice; experienced a strong current from the S.E. which set us to the westward of the Baillie Islands. Upon the morning of the 3d, the wind gradually veered to the southward, bringing with it a very dense fog, and being at the time surrounded with heavy floe pieces and close sailing ice, through which it was necessary to pursue our course, so that every advantage might be taken of the favourable breeze : the vessel occasionally came in violent collision. At noon it cleared "a little, when Trail Point bore S.S.W. about seven miles, sounded in 65 fathoms (mud) the nights having a few hours darkness. Blue lights and rockets are fired for the purpose of attracting the attention of any parties that might be returning from Wollaston or Victoria Lands, bound to the Mackenzie. — September 4th, light variable winds with warm weather, the the temperature rising to 41" ; the water along shore free from ice; about four miles to the westward of the Horton, sounded in 83 fathoms, and shortly after passed over a narrow shoal having but 13 fathoms ; a few pieces of heavy ice were grounded upon it. The land appears to average from 80 to 100 feet in height, composed of blue clay intermingled with sand. Many whales have been about the ships, at one time eight, and from one to four the greater part ol' the day. A bear, the first that has been seen, was likewise remarked upon some loose ice in shore, but time would not allow of its being pursued. — September 5tli, the weather which had been squally accompanied by a thick fog during the early part of the day, cleared towards noon, when a large volume of smoke was observed aboul twelve miles S.W. and five to the eastward of the £ (ii i 51 m fi Horton, in the same spot that it had attracted our attention yesterday. As divers opinions were in circulation respecting its probable cause, and the ice- mate haviug positively reported that from the crow's nest he could distinguish several persons moving about dressed in white shirts, and observed some white tents in a hollow of the cliff, I certainly had every reason to imagine they were a party of Europeans in distress, convinced that no travellers would remain for so long a period as we had remarked the ^moke, in one spot, for their pleasure ; therefore, to satisfy myself equally as others, I determined to send a boat on shore, as it was now calm. The nrst whale l)oat, under Lieutenant Cresswell, with Dr. Armstrong and Mr. Miertsching, were despatched to examine into the cause, who on their return reported the smoke to emanate from fifteen small :nound8 of volcanic appearance, occupying a space of about fifty yards, the 5>lace strongly impregnated with sulphur, the lower mounds being about thirty ect above the sea level, the highest about fifty feet ; the land in its vicinity was blue clay, much intersected with ravines and deep water courses, varying in elevation from .301) to 500 feet : the mark of a reindeer was traced to a small pond of water immediately above the mounds. A notice of our having hmded was left, which could not long remain, as the cliff is evidently rapidly crumbling away. Thus the mystery of the white shirts and tents was must satisfactorily explained. A breeze shortly F-^ringing up from the westward, we made sail to the N.£. .During the night it freshened considerably, with rain and thick weather; this, combined with four hours darkness, compelled me to shorten sail, although loath to lose the full benefit of the fair wind ; but we struck so heavily agamst large blue floe pieces that were barely above the water, that the greatest vigilance and attention was insufficient to avoid them, so no alterna- tive remained to pre\ent disaster. A gieat many seals and whales were seen in Franklin Bay; no less than fifteen of the latter were playing around us at one time, but very small, or, according to Greenland fishing phrnseology, " having only three-foot bone," so Mr. Newton, the ice mate, informs mc. At 4 a.m. upon the morning of the 6th, we were off the small islands near Cape Parry, bearing N.E. by N. ten miles, with a fine westerly breeze and loose sailing ice, interspersed with many heavy floe pieces ; the main pack was about three miles to the N.W. apparently one solid mass. At 1 1.30 a.m., high land was observed on the port bow, bearing N.E. by N., distant about fifty miles. On approaching it the main pack appeared to be resting upon the western shore, which side it was my intention to have coasted, had it been possible ; the eastern one being, however, comparatively clear, as far as could be ascertained from the masthead, decided me to follow the water, supposing it an island round which a passage would be found into the Polar sea. We continued working to windward the whole of the night, and by 9-30 a.m. of the 7th were off the South Cape, a fine bold headland, the cliffs rising perpendicularly upwards of 1,000 feet, which was named " Lord Nelson's Head, in memory of the hero whose early career was connected with Arctic adventure. We shortly afterwards hove to, and, with the first whale-boat and cutter, landed and took possession in the name of Her Most Gracious Majesty, calling it " Baring's Island," in honour of the First Lord of the Admiralty. A pole was erected with a large painted ball upon it, near a cask which was left containin|( a noti6cation and other particulars uf our having been there. The sights obtained by artificial horizon place the signal-staff in latitude 71° 6' N., longitude 123° 0' W., and the fall of the tide was ascertained to be six inches during one hour and a half. We observed numerous recent traces of rein- dv>er hare and wild fowl ; moss, and divers species of wild flowers were also in great abundance, many specimens of them, equally as of other subjects of inte- rest to the naturalist, were selected with much care by Dr. Armstrong. From an elevation obtained of about five hundred feet wc had a fine view towards the interior, which was well clothed with moss, giving a vcrdiint appearance to the ranges of hills that rose gradually to between 2,000 and 3,000 feet, intersected with ravines, which must convey a copious supply of water to a large lake situated in the centre of a wide plain about fifteen miles distant. The sight to seaward was favourable in the extreme ; open water, with a very small quantity of ice, for the distance of full forty miles towards the east, insured good progress in that direction. Returning on board at 1 p.m., wc made sail to the eastward, having a beating wind ; continued working along shore, in soundings varving from nine to seventy-six fathoms ; dark mud mixed with yellow clay, untS close to the lutd when it ch(U)|rfd (o .fine white sand. The weather becoming foggy our lead was fhe only guide until 10 a.m. of the 9th ; it then cleared for a snort time, when land was observed to the eastward, about fifteen miles distant, extending to the northward as far as the eye could reach, The moun- tains in the interior are lofty and snow-covered, while the low ^roimd is quite free; several very remarkable peaks were discernible, appirently of volcanic origin. This discovery was named Prince Albert's Land, in honour of Her Majesty's consort ; latitude 72° I' N. longitude 1 19" 26' W. Continuing our course slowly to the N.E., in consequence of thick fog, snow, and baffling winds, at 8 A.M. of the 10th we were near two rocky islets, named after Her Royal Highness the *' Princess Royal," the largest being about 600 feet in height, and a mile and a half in length, the southern and eastern sides being precipitous ; the other was about a quarter of a mile long and lOt feet high, gradually sloping to the water's edge, representing very much the appearance of an inverted whale-boat. The wind becoming fair and weather clearing, all the studding-sails were set with the hopes of reaching Barrow Straits, from which we were now distant about seventy miles, as the water was tolerable clear in that direction, although muc'n ice was lying against the western land, and from a shoal extending towards it from the largest of the Princess Royal Islands, upon which we obtained thirteen fathoms water ; much loose ice was also in motion, and while endeavouring to run between two floet<, at the rate of four knots, they closed so rapidly, one upon either beam, that our way was instantly stopped and the vessel lifted considerably ; in this position we were retained a quarter of an hour, when the pressure eased and we proceeded. Our advance was of short duration, > sequence. I cannot refrain from noticing the excellency of Halkett's boats, or speak in too high terms of the ingenuity of their inventor. These admirable little articles were inflated on board, and with the greatest facility carried upon a man's shoulders over ice, which from its excessive roughness, no other boat could, by any possibility, have been got across without being smashed. By their means a large party were relieved ; who, without tents, dothing, fuel, provisions, or in any way provided to with- stfnd the severities of a polar night, with the thermometer 8° minus, the consequences to them might have been very serious. As it was, however, the annexation of " Prince Alberts" land to the British Crown was considered to have terminated so favourably, that I directed an extra supper and allowance of grog to be issued to my energetic crew, as a reward for their eight hours rigorous exertions. Being dissatisfied with the view obtained from Prince Albert's land, respecting the waters we were now in, as to their connexion with Barrow Strait, which would settle the question of a North- West Passage, I determined to proceed in that direction with a travelling party, although rather late in the season, as soon as I felt that the vessel mi^ht be safely quitted, which I judged would occur after the ensuing spring tides, if at that period there was no commotion amongst the ice. Accordingly, upon the 21st, everything being favourable, I started with Mr. Court (second master), and the men, as per margin ; the ice for two miles from the ship was so rough, that Lieutenant Haswell and the whole of the ship's company were occupied in carrying the sledge and different articles of lading. At 8 a.m. the sledge was finally packed, when with the fatigue party in charge of Mr. Wynniatt (mate), accompanied by Dr. Armstrong (as an amateur S we set off to the N.E. At noon the fatigue party having taken us eight miles, were directed to return. Soon after quitting us, we got amongst very difficult ice ; the sledge was broken, but quickly fishing it, proceeded. Unfortunately, scarcely an hour had elapsed, when crobsiog a floe, the inequalities of which were imperceptible, it came down with such a crcsh, that it broke into pieces. This was unlucky, but pitching our tent, Mr. Court and Peter Thomson (captain of the fore top) started for the ship, where they arrived at 7-30 p.m., and rejoined the next day at 2 p.m., with a fresh and larger sledge, and a fatigue party with Mr. Wynniatt to carry the damaged one back. This party, upon my return, I found d.id not get on board until the following day, being stopped by heavy snow drift, but having a tent and provisions did not suffer. As soon as the new comers were refreshed, the sledge was packed, and by 3 p.m. were again off, continuing our course without any further disaster, until 3.45 p.m. of the 26th, when we had the extreme gratification of pitching our tent upon the shores of Barrow Strait, (position as per margin,) nearly on the line as represented in the charts where Sir Edward Parrv has very correctly marked the loom of the land. Upon the following morning, before sunrise, Mr. Court and myself ascended a small hill about 600 feet in height, so £3 Bobt. CaUer, CapMhi of ibt Foreenlle. Robt. Tifftm^. C*ptain of tlw llaiutop. Mich. FljDB, Ouuter- Moter. Geo. RrovD, A3. F. Thonnon, Captain of the FoRttp. Jit. Saunden, I'riTate Royal Marinei LatTS 31' W. Long. JK" 39'W. „" lii^u'W. (lunar. I !'■' S6 Lieulriuint Hiuwe.., St^uth-eut shore, f .!*itt*ittant ^fMacr^'l North-west sh-.iru, Mr, WvDniatt, imk', NorthtMi ihert. that we could command an extensive view of forty or fifty miles ; the extreme point of Prince Albert's Land bore latitude 78" E. true, about thirty-five miles, the furthest land North, N.N.E., eif|;ht miles. The Melville Island shore could not be discovered, but in that direction the ice appeared to be very heavy, and the floes exceedingly large. While we were making these observations, the crew were busily engaged erecting a cairn about fifteen feet above the water, (which had been named Prince of Wales* Strait, in honour of His Royal Highness,) in which a copper cylinder was deposited; the spot is so con- spicuous, that any person passing along the shore must remark it. All being completed by ten a.m. of the 27th, we turned for the ship, arriving upon the morning of the 31st, having in nine days made, in a direct line, one hundred and fiily-six miles by observations, with a teinperature between + 7° and — 13°. Upon the afternoon of the 30th, the weather which had been overcast suddenly brightened, showing the Princess Royal Islands, distant about twelve milef>. At three p.m . I left the sledge, with the intention of getting early on board, to have everything in readiness for the comfort of the party, anticipating their arrival at nine p.m. Unfortunately the weather became again loggv about five P.M., followed soon by darkness, consequently my way was speedily lost, compellin^r me to wander about the floe during the night, with a temperature from 5° to 15° muius ; when at seven the next morning had the mortification to find that I had passed the vessel four miles, which I reached by 8.30 a.m., and immediately despatched a party cu assist Mr. Court, who was at five miles distance, hanng most judiciously encamped about seven miles from the ship, when the fog fa«came too dense to travel. -. J was agreeably surprised to learn from Lieutenant Haswell, that on the 29th a party, consisting of Messrs. Sainsbury, Paine, Miertsching, and Newton, while sporting upon " Prince Albert's" land, had encountered u herd of musk cattle, two bulls, u cow, a heifer, and a calf, and most adroitly shot the whole, which yielded twelve hundred and ninety-six pounds of excellent nutritious meat ; a supply thus opportune and unexpected, may be regarded as a most favourable termination to our season's operations, in whicli wc have been nearly enabled to carry out verbatim their Lordships' instructions, in reaching the ice by the 1st August, and establishing a position neav Uanks's Lund, whicli service has been performed under circumstances over which we could exercise but little control, our only credit consisting in seizing the advantages that an invisible power .scattered along our road, through fields of ice, where all human exertioii would have been equally' unavailing as the feebleness of a child to advance us one yard. The winter, that dreary period of the voyage which I had looked forward to with much apprehension, passed mildly away, there being very little snow or wind, without our sanitary state being in the slightest degree impaired, for which happiness I assign these reasons, viz. : — 1st. The unflafl^ng spirits and cheerfulness of the men. 2nd. The excellency of every species of provisions. "* 3rd. The free ventilation of the lower deck. 4th. The extreme attention of Dr. Armstrong (upon our monthly inspections) to the state of the crew. So that the month of March found us in a most healthy and efficient condition ; accordingly upon the 3d we commenced our preliminary duties by taking a thirty-foot whale boat to the larger Princess Royal Islands, where it is my intention to leave three months provisions for all hands, that, at the breaking up of the ice, should the vessel untbrtunately get crushed, we may have a certainty to faJl back upon, which will enable us to reach the " Plover without hazard "of starvation ; this duty being completed, as well as the transporting another whale boat, besides one of Halkett s to the eastern shore, distant five miles, for the facility of allowing the travelling parties going along that roast to reach the islands, should the ice break up and carry the vessel away during their absence ; all arrangements being now made for the start of the searching parties, and the weather becoming very favourable for travelling, upon the 18th of April three were despatched under the officers and in the direction as per margin with six weeks' provisions each. At 1 AM.. May 6thj Mi'. Wynniatt (mate) having broken his chronometer at the distance of one hurtdred £Uld twenty miles from the ship retumed^ but all being in good cot^tion,' tti^' were completed to thirty days pfovisions, and «0 at 6 P.M., were ngain en route. At the same time tA'o huntinc partiei, with tents, &c., left the ship, one lor each Hide of the straitM, rh Hoinc deer had been seen, besides several ptarmigan, and four hares shot ; this early indication of fresh provisions is a subject of deep congratulation, independent of the very healthy and exciting occupation for the crew, who are all eager for the sport. May 20th, Lieutenant Cresswell returned in consequence of the severe frost- bites of two of his men, having reached the latitude and longitude as per margin, being absent thirty-one days. During the greater part of the time he was subject to strong N.W. winds sweeping from the Polar Sea, through Barrow Strait, which meeting him in the face rendered it exceedingly diiticult to walk against, the thenuometer being f»' lentiy 15° below zero. He however traced the coast line, which for about seventy miles along Banks Land was very precipitous, averaging from one thousand to fourteen hundred fSeet, from whicn it gradually sloped to a |^ oint trending to S.W., apparently the extreme of the land in that direction, as it abruptly turned to southwards. An elevation of a thousand feet, aided by an exceeaing clear atmosphere, left no doubt in his mind but th(.t the Polar Sea was before him, and tnat Banks's Land is a part of Baring's Island. He was anxious to have made a further advance, and encamped during two days with the hope that the invalids would recover ; but finding them getting ciucli- worse he very properly deemed it advisable to return with all httstc to the ship ; before reaching ncr, however, both had to be borne upon the sledge, which threw the work upon four men. When getting into heavy snow the officer had to fall in at the drag ropes ; nevertheless, the working party arrived in most excellent health and spirits. On the 2l8t a large bear was killed; upon examination of the stomach an extraordinary medley was discovered, consisting of raisins, tobacco, pork, and adhesive plaster, that I came to the conclusion that the "Enterprise" must be near, the animal not having been seen before near our dirt heap, nor were there anv traces of him about the shin. I theretV)re determined to send a party to the S.W., the only direction we haa no travellers, to satisfy myself upjn the subject ; accordingly at 6 p.m. on the 22d, Lieutenant Cresswell with his party, completed with two fresh hands, were agnin despatched with provisions until June 10th. Upon the 24th the above mystery was satisfactorily solved, some men in pursuit of a bear about half a mile from the ship, picked up a preserved meat tin with articles in it indentical with those found in the stomach of the bear killed on the 21st ; the foot prints of the animal were likewise abundant upon the snow, this evidence was perfectly conclusive as to the locality when Brain had obtained his dainties. This being the anniversary of the birth-day of Her Most Gracious Majesty, a royal salute was fired, and the colours displayed in celebration of the event. 29th ; Lieutenant Haswell and party returned all in the most perfect health, having traced the coast towards Wollaston Land, to latitude 70° .38' N., longi tudc 11.5° \\ ., from which point, the day being remarkably clear, he observed the outline of land to the distance of full forty miles trending to the S.W. ; but having advanced twenty-five days, he considered it prudent to proceed no further. Two large inlets and a deep bay wore examined, beside an arcnipelago of small islands along the northernmost shore of the southernmost inlet, which is high, bold, and stratified ; each inlet trending to the E.N.E. from 80 to 90 miles. The whole coast was strewed with driftwood, and many vestages of Esquimaux encampments wcremet with, but a of very old date. Upon returning, he was much surprised to find a party consisting of eighteen natives encamped upon the ice, a few miles from the N.W. point of the northernmost inlet m quest of seals, they were very friendly and well disposed, but not understanding each other, no information could be obtained. They exchanged a few presents, and upon that day week he arrived on board, having remained out his forty-tVro days, thereby fulfilling his instructions to the lettier. Ih consequence of the above, I iihme- diately decided upon proceeding to these people for the purpose of obtaining information that might determine the question relating to " Prince Albert's, " Wollaston, and Victoria Lands," as to their fortning part of the American Continent, or whether each was an island ; therefore, taking Mr. Miertsching (our invaluable intrepreter) and twelve days' provisions, at 6 p.m. we started, and early upon June .3d, fell in with them about ten miles to the northward of the point, where they were first met with. They conversed freely with the interpreter, giving every intormation we required relative to the trending of the coast as far as they knew, which was soiMe fist emoe along ^' Victoria" LftM ^ this they did by £ 4 l^«. 47' 1(1. N. Long 117^ «yW. 'i< I. it I •I m II 40 f.MuUuat CNMirtll. A.H, tracing upon a laroe sheet of paper wliicli I brought for that purpose, continu* ing a sketch whidi Mr. Miertsching had made fVoni the ship to their tents, which they immedately comprrhen(fcd ; and as they were very particular in placing the islands of Sutton and Liston with three smaller ones not mentioned in the chart oif* WoUaston Land ; I am, therefore, fully persuaded of its cor- rectness, and only regretted that they could not go further, ( a tracing of which accompanies this narrative.) They dcscribedalargelandopposite WoUaston, called " Nunavak Saraluk;" this of course is America, to which they had never been, as they only trade with the Esquimaux to the S.E., nor had they the slightest article of European manufacture about them, llie use and sight of iron was perfectly new, all their implements being copper, their spears and arrows barl>cd with the same. The copper ore is remarkably fine ; but not observing any when at the tents, (the specimen was given me by one of our men some time after quitting them, ) unfortunately we lost the opportunity of inquiring where it was procured ; but I am inclined to think that it comes from the south-east tribes in their Imrtering transactions, as the few and simple ornaments which they possessed were ot that metal, and obtained from thence. These are a kind, simple, and purely pastoral tribe, devoid of the knavish propensities which so strongly characterise those upon the Mackenzie ond Colviile, where intercourse with civi- lized men has demoralized the savage. Upon displaying the presents brought for them, the utmost propriety was observed; although, doubtless, all were anxious to participate in those treasures, there was not that eagerness to seize which rendered our interchange with the other Esquimaux so troublesome. So far was it from these to do so, that it was with difficulty we could persuade them to accept without our receiving an equivalent ; they inquiring of the interpreter, after each article that Nvas given them, what we wanted for it. A piece of scarlet cloth, which I tied round a girl's neqk remained there until we were going away, when she ran up to Mr. MiertscbinK to ask what she was to give in exchange, and when assured it was a gift irom me chief she gracefully acknowledged it with a smile. No weapons were remarked amongst them except for the chase. Their whole demeanour bespoke peace. They live near tneir present locality the whole year, not going any further to the northward, or do they believe that there are any others in that direction ; but to the S.E. along Victoria and WoUaston Land the coast is thickly populated. It appears very extraordinary that they do not even possess traditionary legends of their ancestors having been north, where the numerous traces which we meet with upon both sides of the straits, as well as on the large Princess Royal Island, show that at one period the whole of this coast must have been densely populated. Their language, Mr. Miertsching observes, is identical with that spoken upon the Labrador Coast. At half-pa-st nine we left this interesting people on our return to the ship, which we reached at 7 v.M. of the 5th, exceedingly gratified by the result of our pleasant excur- sion, our onlv misfortune being Cornelius Hullett, mv coxswain, having both feet badly irost nipped. At 5 a.m. of the 7th, Mr. Wynniatt, mate, returned %vith his party, having been fifty days under the tent, from his cxploratian of a portion of the south-eastern shores of Barrow Straits as far as Intitude 72° 6' N., longitude 107° 42' W. (D.R.), from whence the land was observed for about fifteen miles tending to the N.E. Afler rounding Point Peel, latitude 73° 21' N., longitude 112° 30' W., the north-west point of Prince Albert's Land, he reports it to be in all respects as to formation the same as in this vicinity for the distance of about forty miles, when upon crossing a deep inlet, the land then assumed a north-west aspect, when it became high, precipitous, and barren ; no driftwood of any description was met with, but the ice lay against its base in heavy and unbroken masses. Further to the eastward a lesser one was circum- ambulated, having in it severa' small islands, with its southern shore formed of stratified cliff, having an elevation of about 800 feet. Upon the 10th, at 7.4.5. A.M., Lieutenant Cresswell and party, having completed their nineteen days, returned from their search towards the S.W. (to latitude 71° 10' N. longitude 123° 4' W.), making in the aggregate fifty uiider the tent, during which he has coasted three sides of Baring's Island, from the north shore of which he looked upon the Polar Sea, and upon the south walked four-and-twenty miles on it ; both presenting the same smooth surface, which I consider to be attributable to the long prevalence of north-easterly winds at the termination of the navigable seasoHj settin" the heavy ice which we encountered and saw resting upon the western side o? the island, over to the American and Asiatic shores, which may 41 CHuie the great difficulty in rounding Point Barrow late in the HcaHon. Unfortunately the weather became overcast, which limited hit view to the northward, only allowing him to obaerve that the coast was high und bold. Upon thin excursion he met with four partitions of the ice varying in breadth from ten to twenty feet, apparently running across the Mtrait ; but being provided with one of Halkett s vaiuaole \\V\c boats, this obstacle, which would otherwise have caused a detour of many miles, was easily overcome; it is impossible to recommend these boats too highly upon a service of this description, where every article of weight is objectionable ; their whole fitting is but twenty-five pounds ; when not required they form a platform on the sledge to stow the baggage, and when in use, they are carried inflated upon the top. Thus on two occasions they have been of essential service, without the smallest inconvenience. Lieutenant Creswell erected a cairn and deposited ". cylinder within it upon a low beach near Cape Lambton ; he also remarked the vestiges of Esquimaux encampments upon almost every part of the coast upon which he pitched his ti;nt for the night, many of them thickly strewed with the heads of musk oxen, which denotes no paucity of those animals upon these lands ; indeed, nt the present time both shores of t!ie strait are covered with wild fowl of every description, musk oxen, deer, hares, ptarmigan and golden plover. This is certainly the most fertile port of the Pohr Regions, and inust l)c the breeding place of those animals, who nnd rich pasturage amongst its alluvial Elains and valleys, unmolested by the Esquimaux, the traces of whose remains eing overgrown with moss and rotten, have reference to a time long anterior. This party, with much spirit and zeal, performed their return journey of upwards of one hundred and sixty miles, in nine days and a half, under circumstanct's reflecting much credit upon them, the lateness of the season lK>ing unfavourable to so rapid an advance. All being now on board and in excellent health, with the exception of three of the travellers suffering from frost nips, our season's travelling operations may be considered to have terminated fortunately ; and from the close examination which has been made over a vast extent of coast, whose direct distance by observation embraces eight hundred miles, to which ii third may be added for the devious windings of the coast line, without observing the slightest 'estiges of any spar, or other indication of civilized man having reached these- shores, I am fully confident th rcpairiufi^ and p«intiiitf otH bout which 18 to be kfl with tbo provij warping and towing v o speedily got beyond its influence. Had our positiiMi l)een less favourable, nothing could have saved the vessel from momentary dcHtruction, and at 11.30 p.m., with a breeze from the S.E., made sail tlirough large leads of water towards the eastern side of the straits, and by the aflern.wn of the 24th had nearly reached Point Armstrong, upon which the ice \mi8 resting, and our course checked. There was much driftwood on thi' l)each of large dimensions, mostly American pine, the cutter was consequently despatched for a load, and some of the pieces appeared so fresh that Mr. Ford, the carpenter, was of opinion that two years is the extreme of their (juittiug the forest. i'Ue Avind veering to the westward during the night set large bodies of ice into the water we occupied, which was rapid!}' filling. To pR'\ent Ixing forced on shore wc wore obliged, at 8 a.m. of the 25th, to run into the pack, where we drifted according to the tide about a mile and a half from the beach; but during the twenty-four hours made about two miles and a half to the N.E., from which, I am of opiuiun, when taken with the quantity of driftwood that is thickly strewed along the beach, that on this r-ar- ride of tlte Btrait then; lifa'Nlfgfit current to ihe N.T!., whfle upon tbe oppoiite one it setti to the xmithw^rd, upon which therr is iicarcely any wood, nnd our proprctm while Niniilnrly situated whn in ii .southern direction. We continued drifling in the park without meeting any ihstruction until 10 a.m. of Augunt lit, when a sudden and most unt-xpcctid motion of the ice Hweui u* with much velo- city to the N.K., towardH a low point off which were Mevcral Rhoalit awauh, having many heavy piecev of grounded ice u|>on them, towardH which we were directly letting, dccreafling the soundingH from twenty-four to nine fathonm and u hair: defltruction wan it|)j>arently not far distant when most opportunely the ice cased a little, and a tresn wind coming from the land, sail wan immediately made, which, assisted hy warps, enabled the ship to be forced ahead about two hundred yards, that shot us clear of ice and point into sixteen and a half fiithomi, m which water we rounded the shoals. The ice tlicn again closed, and the ship became fixed until the 14th, when the fog, which sinc^ yesterday had been very dense, clearepfl( ' working alonging the eastern shore 'j acertain what probability e>i . ot being able to round the pack and thus get into Barrow Straits, froiii > inch we were not distant more than twenty -five miles; at 9 a.m. all lui| .lisoppeared, as a clear view from the crow's nest dicovered the ice to be clo>cl \ packed, resting upon Point Lady Ross extending one unbroken line to the oinposite side of the strait. This- determined me to give up all idcaof pt . cutrng our search in this direction, having been foiled m attempting thi' ,vi-.sage the latter end of one season, and at the commence- ment of anotlier, 1 considered it not practicable, except . .der the favourable circumstance of a continuance of south-westerly winds, which would drive the ice into Ban ow Straits; but I imagine there would be littU iifliculty in coming from the N.E., from which quarter we found the winds prevail. Our greatest advance in that direction was latitude 73° 13' 13" N., longitude ' 15° 32' 30" \V. ; accordingly, at 9-30 a.m. we bore upwiththe intention of running to the southward of Nelson's Head, and continue our search along tiic western side of Baring's Island, with the hope of reaching the entrance of Barrow St ait by that route; as ftom till report of Lieutenant Cresswell, I felt convinced that by Banks's Land tiiere is a passage from the Polar Sea. At 4 p.m. passed the " Princess Royal's" Islands with a fine beeze ; not a particle of ice to be seen in any direc- tion, which only a month previous had presented enormous floes, and heavy grounded masses lying against their base and upon the shoal connecting them, which wc considered had l)een there for years and likely to remain for many more ; even the huge pieces which had been thrown upon the eastern shore had vanished, so that every vestige of that formidable element had passed away which tor nearly eleven montlis had held us in its trammels. — Upon the i/th, while n6af Nels6n's Head, with a fine breeze from the S.E.', we experiiehced a F2 ^1 Hi 111 4* heavy swell from that direction, causinj^ the vessd to pitch the hawse-holes under and send the sea as far aft as the fore hatchway. A circumstance so unusual was hailed as a favourable omen, beinff a convincing proof that we were in much open water, and at 11.30 p.m. rouucfed the Head: the land for about twenty-five miles to the westward is remarkably bold and Jotty ; where Cape Hamilton jut- ting out and rising perpendicularly one thousand feet, presents a grand termination to it in that direction, from which it gradually recedes to the N.W., where it loses this bold character, partaking more of that remarked in the Prince of Wales' Strait, being ranges of hills gradually sloping from the interior to the shore, having fine valleys and extensive plains, several small and one considerable river, the water from the latter discolouring the sea two miles from its mouth, likewise many small lakes and harbours, which, how- ever, would be only of utility for boats, as a heavy surf was breaking across their entrances. Much driftwood strewed the beach, and the land was well covered with verdure, upon which were large flocks of geese feeding, while ducks were flving in great numbers, and have little doubt that a walk a short distance inland would have discovered herds of deer and musk oxen. Nothing that was on the coast could escape observation, or could anything be more favourable for the object we had in view, as with a fair wind and fine clear weather, we ran along it from one to two miles* distance. At 4 p.m. of the 18th, being off a very low spit of land (Point Kellett) which extended to the west- ward for about twelve miles in the form of a horse-shoe, having its sea side thickly studded with grounded ice, while the interior was exempt from any, I sent Mr. Court (second master,) to examine it, who reported an excellent and commodious harbour, well sheltered from N.W. to S., carrying five fathoms within ten yards of the beach, which was shingle and covered with driftwood ; a set of sights were obtained, and a cask contaming a notice was left there, its position latitude 71° 56' N., longitude 125° 29' W. ; from this the land turns abruptly N. by E., and a great change takes place in its general aspect, gradually becoming low and flat, so that near the beach it is scarcely discernible, resem- bling separate sand banks, but upon closing it, a low spit, barely above the level of the water, was remarked connecting them. The lead may be considered an infallible guide along the whole of this coast, as the soundings are regular from three to thirty fathoms at from one to four miles off shore ; upon the morning of the 19th, wc left this low coast and passed between two small islands lying at the entrance of what appeared a deep inlet, running E.S.E., and then turning sharp to the N.E., it had a barrier of ice extending across, which prevented any examination : wishing to keep between the northermost of these islands and the mainland to avoid the pack which was very near it, we narrowly escaped getting on shore, as a reef extended from the latter to witbin half a mile of the island ; fortunately the wind being light we rounded to with all the studding sails set, and let go the anchor in two and a half fathoms, having about four inches to spare under the keel, and warped into four, while Mr. Court was sent to find a channel, in which he succeeded, carrying three fathoms, through which we ran for one mile, and then continued our course in eight, having from three to five miles between the ice and laud. At 8 p.m. were near two other islands, the ice resting upon the westermost, upon which the pressure must have been excessive, as large masses were forced nearly over its summit, which was upwards of forty feet ; between these and the mam we ran through a channel in from nine to fifteen fathoms, when an immediate and marked change took place in the general appearance and formation of the land ; it became high, precipitous, sterile, and rugged, intersected with deep ravines and water courses, having sixty-five, a quarter of a mile, and fifteen fathoms one hundred yards from the cliffs, which proved exceedingly fortunate, as the whole pack which had apparently only just broken from the shore, was within half a mile, and in many places so close to it that to avoid getting beset we had nearly to touch the land ; indeed upon several occasions the boats were compelled to be topped up, and poles used to keep the vessel from off the grounded ice, which extends all along this coast ; nor could we round to, fiearful of carrying the jib-boom away against its cliffs, which here ran nearly eoft and west, (the Cape forming its western extreme I have culled " Prince Alfred," in honour of His Royal Highness) there were two apparently good harbourS; about twenty miles to the eastward of the cape, the w estcrnmost had a breakwater, half a mile in length, twenty feet high, facing the noith, with entrances on it« east wd west sides about sixty yards in breadth : the other was circular, about three quarters of a mile in diameter, with its entrance on the west side. Our critical position would not admit of any detention, otherwise they would have be«n sounded ; being very anxious to nnd a secure retreat, in the event of having to winter on this coast. The weather, which had been fine, with a south-east wind, veered to the W.S.W., bringing fog and rain, so that on the morning of the 20th, our further progress was impeded, by finding the ice resting upon a point which formed a slight indentation of the shore, and was the only place were water could be seen. To prevent being carried away with the pack which was filling up its space, we secured to the inshore side of a small, but heavy piece of ice, grounded in twelve fathoms, seventy-four yards from the beach ; the only protection against the tremendous polar ice, (setting a knot per hour to the eastward, before a fresh westerly wind,) which at 9 p.m. placed us in a very critical position, by a large floe stnking the piece we were fast to, and causing it to oscilate so considerably, that a Longue, wnich happened to be under our bottom, lifted the vessel six feet ; but, by great attention to the anchors and warps, we succeeded in holding on during the conflict, which was continued several minutes, terminating by the floe being rent in pieces, and our being driven nearer the beach. — From this until the 29th, we lay perfectly secure ; but at 8 a.m. of that day, the ice began suddenly to move, when a large floe that must have caught the piece to which we were attached utider one of its overhanging ledges, raised it perpendicular thirty feet, presenting to all on board a most frightful aspect. As it ascended above the fore yard, much appre* hension was felt that it might be thrown completely over, when the ship must have been crushed beneath it. This suspense was but for a few minutes, as the floe rent, carrying away with it a large piece from the foundation of our asylum, when it gave several fearful rolls and resumed its former position ; but no longer capable of resisting the pressure, it was hurried onward with the drifting mass. Our proximity to the shore, compelled, as our only hopes of safety, the absolute necessity of holding to it, we consequently secured with a chain stream and hemp cable, three six and two five inch hawsers, three of which were passed round it. In this state we were forced along, sinking large pieces beneath the bottom, and sustaining a heavy strain against the stem and rudder ; the latter was much damaged, but to unship it at present was impossible. At 1 p.m. this pressure eased, from the ice becoming stationary, when it was unhung, and laid upon a large floe piece, where, by 8 p.m., owing to the activity of Mr. Ford, the carpenter, who is always ready to meet any emergency, it was repaired just as the ice began again to be in motion ; but as the tackles were hooked, it was run up to the davits without further damage. We were now setting fast upon another large piece of a broken floe, grounded in nine fathoms upon the debris, formed at the mouth of a large river. Feeling confidcn*t that should we be caught between this and what we were fast to, the ship must inevitably go to pieces, and yet being aware that to cast off would certainly send us on the beach, from which we were never distant eighty yards, upon which the smaller ire was hurled as it came in contact with these grounded masses, I sent John Kerr, (gunner's mate,) under very difficult circum- stances, to endeavour to reach it, and effect its destruction by blasting. He could not, however, find a sufficient space of water to sink the charge, but remarking a large cavity upon the sea face of the floe, he fired it there, which so far succeeded that it slightly fractured it in three places, which at the moment was scarcely observable from the heavy pressure it was sustaining. By this time the vessel was within a few feet of it, every one was on deck in anxious suspense, awaiting what was apparently the crisis of our fate. Most fortunately the atempost took it so fairly that the pressure was fore and aft, bringing the whole strength of the ship to bear a heavy grind which shook every mast and caused beams and decks to complain, as she trembled to the violence of the shock, plainly indicated that the struggle would be but of short duration. At this moment the stream cable was carried away, and several anchors drew ; thinking that we had now sufficiently risked the vessel, orders were given to let go all the wnrps, and with that order I had made up my mind that in a few minutes she would be on the lieach, but as it was sloping conceived she might still prove an asylum for the winter and possibly be again got afloat, whilst, should she be crushed between these large grounded pieces she must inevitably ffo down in ten fathoms, which would be certain destruction tc all ; but before the orders could be obeyed a merciful providence interposed, causing the ire, F8 I I: it M 4b Which had beeil"|)teVJoB8ly Weakiened to sepairMre into three 'piedes, and it ftoatem the W.N. W., bringing the whole pack down upon this coast,; filling our little harbour with loose and small ice, its entrance being too narrow to admit the large pieces ; an enormous floe, however, carried away one of our flanks, but without disturbing the vessel in the slightest. — At daylight on the morning of the 15th, these expectations were sadly blighted, it blowing hard from W.N.W., with sleet and snow; nor was a drop of water to be observed in any direction, and the ice apparently as firmly fixed as in the depth of winter, the rudder was was again unhung, which, with the thermometer at 14°, scarcely afforded any probability of its being re-shipped this season. In the course of the forenoon, Messrs. Court ( second master) and Newton (ice mate) were sent to examine the coast and state of the ice to the eastward of Point Colquhoun, distant about four miles ; their report was such as to confirm the opinion previously enter- tflJnfKi, with this consolation, that the position which we occupied was better *b :/ they had seen, as the ice to the eastward was much larger and more H,« = v: than that we were encompassed by. The soil on this coast is composed <-'' ,, vei and limestone, and in the vallies near the beach the quantity and rich- ness of the moss is quite surprising : but on reaching the first range of hills, rtbout a mile distant, a more sterile landscape never met the eye ; the whole country appears nothing but one mass of limestone, without the slightest vege- tation. The traces of animals, so numerous fifteen miles frirther west, are nowhere in this barren ground to be met with. — On the 17th, the westerly wind ceased, and was succeeded by one from the eastward, with a rise of temperature from 1 1° to 21°, which by daylight of the 19th had increased to 32°, with water extending along the coast three miles in width. We immediately cast off, and at 7 A.M. rounded the point, from whence the land falls back E.S.E. Our pro- gress was slow from many causes ; the copper being torn, and projecting from four to twelve inches from the bottom, light winds, and an ice-encumbered sea ; so that at 3 p.m. our further advance was arrested by the pack touching the land, and extending with unbroken line to the northward as far as the eye could reach. Our day's work did not exceed fifteen miles, when we were compelled to make fast to the land ice, which along the whole of this coast is of the most massive and terrific dimensions I have ever witnessed. There was little selection of berth on a coast line nearly straight, but a slight indentation, protected east and west by two large pieces of a broken floe, thirty feet above the water, gave hopes of some shelter, when, at 6 p.m., the water and loose ice, which was before perfectly still, suddenly rushed forward at the rate of two knots an hour, and striking against the vessel, forced her from her anchors with such violence that she was driven astern upon a hard point of the floe, which rose her twelve inches, but fortunately held until the rush was over, which swept away our eastern bulwark, but did no ot'ier damage. We then warped to the western side of the floe, where a small space was blasted for the bow, in which we quietly remained during the night. — At daylight of the 20th, finding the ice loose and drifting, though a perfect calm, a mile and a half an hour to the eastward, cast off, and, laying hold of a large floe piece, was dragged along close by the grounded ice, which with some difficulty was avoided by shifting round the floe as it canted towards it. At noon, having a light air from the westward, made sail, but soon had reason to regret it, as it shortly failed, andj the ice flllintr the land F4 ti 46 water, it gradually forced the vessel ipto the pack, which hitherto we have been 80 anxious and careful to avoid. As the only hope of navigating ^his sea consists in keeping close to the shore, it now became evident that every exertion must be made by warping to regain the land, which, under the circumstances of the ice being in motion, with much that was small and loose filling up the intervals between the larger pieces, which allowed a secure footing for the men, was difficult, laborious, and anxious in the extreme, as, with every precaution they fre<}uently fell in. After seven hours' incessant work, we succeeded, as the mght closed, in reaching a huge and solid floe that had just been upturned : three of its sides, being twenty-flve feet perpendicular, grounded in twenty-nine fathoms on the outer edge, and having ten and » half upon the inner one. around which was scattered much debris, part of its original self, that 'd crumbled fVom the pressure against a cfiif, up which It had been forcc.l full seventy feet, and where a large mass was stiu remaining, about a mile to the westward of a cape (Austin) four hundred feet in height, — which is stratified and of the same description as Neloon's Head,— • where we secured for the night. — At daylight of the 21st, a thick fog with hail permitted a very circumscribed view, but as the ice appeared loose in the direc- tion of the Cape, at 5 a.m. started, and grazing round it within fifteen yards, found ourselves in a larse bay entirely covered with ice, formed by another cape three miles S.E., compelling us at 6.30 a.m. to make fast immediately beneath the cliff, whose summit nearly plumbing the hatchwa^ s rendered our position very unsafe, many fragments appearing so loose from the action of frost, and watcfr that a slight concussion would have brought them down. At 1 1 a.m. the ice eased a little from the land, when we again endeavcur'^d to force towards the S.E., aided by a westerly wind and warping, but in the ai^<;rnoi>a the fog became so dense with an easterly breeze that we made fast to the land floe, in which a small dock was formed with the assistance of a little powder, about a mile from our forenoon's position, remaining until the morning of the 22nd., when a little progress was made toward j the S.E., our operations by warping beinp; brought to a termination at 1 p.m., having reached the Cape (Crozier) ufon the south eastern side of which the ice was resting : therefore securing to a ridge twenty feet in height lying at its base, I proceeded with Mr. Court to its summit for the purpose of examining the coast lin<:: towards the S.E.: a deep bay extending tnirty miles in that direction, filled with ice, which was commencing to move bodily to the westward, and of a much less formidable a character to that we had been subjected to, while what was lying along the shore was small and widely detached, well repaid the toil of ascent. Indeed since rounding Cape Austin it has lost much of its terrible aspect, which led to the inference that we were fairly in Barrow Straits, and that the main polar pack takes a direct line from the last mentioned cape to the E.N.E., and that which fills these bays and is carried down Barrow Straits, is the comparatively small ice which drifts from its southern edge, as we have invariably remarked that there is a decidedly eastern current, which impels the enormous polar floes on that course, while the lighter, influenced by wind, is oftentimes setting in an opposite direction. This Cape (Crosier) is two hundred and fifl;, feet perpen- dicular, presenting amongst its debris many intersesting geological specimens. It is composed of lime and sandstone, having fcssiliferous shells imbedded ; also pieces of coal and petrifactions of wood, identical with what has been met with upon other parts oi this large island, and upon the " Princess Royal" Isles. — At 3.30 A.M. of^ the 23d, although not daylight, open water was ascertained to be at hand from the dark appearance of ^.le horizon to seaward; the vessel was cast off, and standing in tnat direction found we had not been deceived. The wind during the forenoon coming from the westward enabled our running close along the shore, on which still rested a line of thin ice, rendering the entrance of what appeared three good harbours inaccessible. The land was much less rugged, having small hills gradually sloping to the beach, and large valleys, well calculated for the pasture lands of animals ; but no particle of driftwood could be observed, which article has not been seen, (excepting the small chips near the ligneous hills, since rounding point " Kellet " en the western shore. — At 5.30 p.m. our course was nearly obstructed, from the ice K'sting upon a point about two miles distant; the studding sails were taken 'n, but almost immediately re-set as it gradually opened, allowing just su^ng only six feet under the bow, and at the distance of ten feet from (he M*m only eighteen inches, while the stern was in five fathoms; the stream ancnor and cable were laid out, which service was well pertbrmed by Messrs. Wynuiatt, Sainsbury, and Court, it requiring four boats m consequence of the freshening N.W. gale, and pieces of loose ice with snow, which, caking as it reached the water, formed so thick a coating over its service, and offering such resistance, that it was scarcely possible to ptdl through, — which, with clearing the forehold and warrant officer's storerooms, and bringing all the weight abaft the mizen mast, at 10 p.m. we were enabled to heave olf, and brought up with both bowers in six fathoms and a half. The remainder of the night was occupied in re-stowing the holds, weighing the stream anchor, &c., so that at daylight of the 24th we were in perfect readine&s to move. On a view of our pc jition, we found that we were on the N.W. side of the large bay, whose eastern limit bore N.E. eight miles, which we subsequently found formed the western point of Banks's Land, and running to the S.S.W. about seven, which was rapidly filling up with ice flowing in before a fresh gale from the Polar Sea ; still wishing to see if any jiossibility remained of getting down Barrow Strait, wc weighed and stood as far as the ice would allow to the N.E., when observing from the crow's nest no water in that direction, J determined to make this our winter quarters; and having remarked upon the south side of the bank, on which we had grounded, a well- protected bay, Mr. Court was despatched to sound it, and shortly making the signal that there was suflScient water, we bore up, and at 7.45 a.m , anchored in 4 4 fathoms, and that night were firmly frozen in what has since proved a most safe and excellent harbour, — which, in grateful remembrance of the many perils that we had (during the passage of that terrible Polar Sea) escaped, in reaching, have named it the Bay of Mercy, thus finally terminating this short season's operations, being actually only five days under weigh. Preparation? were now made for bousing in, and everything completed except hauling over the cloth, by October 1st, which was not done, that the daylight should be enjoyed as long as possible and a saving in light effected. On that day, as a pre- cautionary measure, the crew were placed upon two-thirds allowance of all species of provisions. Upon the 4th Mr. Court was sent with a travelling f)arty to connect our position with that visited by Lieutenant Crtsswcil in May ast, from which we were only distant eighteen niilcs. On the 7th he returned, which service completed the search around the entire coast line of this island. He reported open water a few miles from the shore (which, gradually extending, reached the cliff's of Banks's Land) upon the 6th, as with two men he Avas examining a few miles to the south- eastward of his tent, that detached thi heavy grounded land ice from their base, drifting the whole party off shore to the N.W. Fortunately, being unencumbered with the sledge, they succeeded with difficulty and by much agility, jumping from piece to piece, in regaining the shore, and that evening no ice could be remarked in the strait, the whole lieing set in the Polar Sea. On the lOih, Mr. Sainsbury, mate, with a travelling party, went to examine an inlet which appeared to run some distance to the S.W. from the south side of the bay, but upon the following day returned, finding it extended only twelve miles, the water shoaling, until it finally terminated in a large marsh, which, from the numerous traces of animals and wild fowl, may be considered as a favourite resort during the summer. As there appeared much fame in the vicinity, and the weather continuing mild, shooting perties under (ieutenant Cresswell, Messrs. Wynniatt, Court, and Piers, ai d the marines under Serjeant Woon, were established in difiorent directions between the '4th and 23d, so that with what was killed from the ship our supply of fresh pro- visions on the commencement of the winter consisted of nine deer, fifty-three hares, and forty-four ptarmigan, all in fine condition, the former having from two to three inches fat. The weather during the winter has been much more boisterous, but in each month several degrees more mild than was experienced in the Prince ol Wales' Strait, nearly a degree and a half further south, last year, which in conjunction G with the animalH remaining in numbers in this locality the entire winter, must I auppose be taken as a proof of its mildness, although laying exposed to the N. W . winds, direct from the Polar Sea, which, upon our first l^ing frozen in, led to the anticipation of having to encounter a very severe season. In consequence of oui' favoured position, the crew were enabled to ramble over the hills almost dailv, in quest of game, and their exertions happil}' mmT^lipd u fivsh meal of venison tlu^e times a fortnight, with the exception oi >out three weeks in January, when it was too daix for shooting. The small game, such as ptarmi- gan and hares, being scarce, were allowed to be retained by the sportsmen as private property ; this healthy and exhilirating exerciss kept us all well and in excellent sp'rits during another tedious winter, so that on ihe 1st of April we had upwards of a thousand powids of venison hanging at the yard arms. On wea.ing so fair an aspect, and being desiroiis of visitine Winter Harbour, Mel- ville Island, with the hope of meeting an officer with whom arrangements might be made in the event of any accident occurring which would render it necessary to quit the ship, I proceeded on the 11th with Mr. Court (second master) and a sledge party for that port, but in consequence of thick weather coming on a few hours after leaving the vessel, and continuing unmtermittinffly for several days, we did not reach until the 28th. Upon the 15th we observed a very lofty cape bearing N.E. by £. thirty mile:., which I have called Queen Victoria, in honour of F Most Gracious Majesty (the same which had been remarked last autumn i om the high land near the ship ;) the land to the north- east forms the bottom of Lyddon Gulf, while that upon its western side stretched to the N.W. in oac unbroken mountain-line as far as the eye could reach. At Winter Harbour we attained a set of sights for the purpose of test- ing our chronometers, which were ascertained to be going exceedingly well ; and having deposited a notice of our visit under the same cairn that Lieutenant M'Chntock left one last year, u^n a large fragment of sandstone, bearing this inscription, viz. : — " His Britannic Majesty's Snips ' Hecla' and ' Griper,' Com- manders Parry and Lydu.)n, wintered m the adjacent harbour during the winter of 1819-20. — A .Fisher, sculpsit." At 6 p.m. commenced our return, travelling upon flat ice nearly the entire way, accomphshii^p in ten days what occupied eighteen upon the outward trip, and reached the ship upon the 9th of May, where I had the gratification of^ receiving the most satisfactory reports concern- ing our sanitary condition, and likewise that the supply of venison continued abundant, having twenty head of deer on board ; in consequence, the ration of venison was increased to a pound and a half thrice a week, as the crew were at hard work cleaning the holds, collecting and bringing off ballast ; the latter e very laborious occupation, from the large space they had to search over in pick- ing up a sufficiency of stone to complete one hundred tons, which was not accomplished until the 25th, after which we commenced watering, obtaining it from a lake about a mile from the ship, by boring through seven feet ten incnes of ice, and cutting a reservoir to receive it, this forming a species of artesian well, which gave a bountiful supply, enabling the water to be completed by the 12th of June, previous to the commencement of the thaw, which was a great advantage tothecrewas it kept themdry footed. Aboutthistime flocks of wildfowl, consisting of swans, geese, and all descriptions of ducks, began to arrive, but finding no water, merely took a flight round the N.W. extreme of the land, and returned to the southward, from which it would appear that the season is late ; indeed, the land is as much covered with snow as m the depth of winter, nor wa»r.it until the 25th of the month that any alteration took place, when small streams com- menced trickling down the sunny slopes of the ravines, and little ponds formed upon the ice. — On the 30th we had an entire day of heavy snow, with one of tne most severe northerly gales that I ever witnessed at so advanced a period of the season ; and upon the 1st July found that the ice had increased its thick- ness four inches during the last month, being seven feet two inches, a most imusual circumstance, as both at Port Leopold and in the Prince of Wales' Strait we fovmd a very considerable decrease during the mouth of June, the temperature likewise was very low, showing an average of 3lA°. The appear- ance of the crew at their monthly inspection elicited a more unfavourable report from the surgeon than I have hitherto received, evident symptoms of debility i:i.. _i! iU_ . _ J :j_j -u..<.: aiUUUgsi luc gciiciniitv ui liiciii, auu siAkccii iiaviii{j u ucuiucu suuiuuiiv Lciiucucjr, plainly the effect of the late heavy labour in ballasting and watering ; but as aH out work is now on board, their gradual return to perfect health may be antici- SI pkikA WklitNlt ericiinAilmcg ttie tick list.— t}n th^ 8ib July Sergeant Woon^ of the Marines, while in pursuit of a wounded deer, unexpectedly met a couple of musk bulls, which he succiwded in killing, evincing the most soldierlike coolness and intrepidity during the entire transaction. Having expended his ammunition as ohe or the wounded and infuriated monsters rushed towards him, he fired his worm when at a few yards, but without much effect, as he continued his advance, evidently, however, weak from loss of blood, till he had reached within six feet, when, putting his head to the ground previous to his final rush, the sergeant, as his last resource, fired his iron ramrod, which, entering behind the left shoulder, passed through the heart and out at tie right flank, dropping him dead ut his net. They are fine animals, whose gross weight is 1,330 lunds, and yield, after deducting offal Hnd hunters' perquisites, 650 poun of excellent beef, which providential supply is most opportune, as our reindeer were expended last week. Two Esquimaux huts upon a small islet in the centre of the bay, and the site of an encampment on a peaked hill on the western shore of the mainland, are the -only indications we have met with of that extraordinary and hardy people haVIng at some period long past inhabited this coast ; we have now discovered traces of them upon all sides of this island, but where are they gone, for certainly there is not one up;d admit of reaching England in safety, where the sue* cessfiu achievement of the long-sought-for and almost hopeless discovery of the North- West Passage would l)e received with a satisfaction that will amply compensate for the sacrifices made, and hardships endured in its most trying and tedious accomplishment. This statement was well received, and its execution will, I hope, be carried out without dirflculty. — On the 1 7th the wind shifted to the S.S.E., and blew hard, which a few days earlier might have been attended with ft vourablc results ; but now it had no effect, the icc being eight inches thick was too finn to be moved; the sails were consequently unbent, and preparations commenced for housing in. — September 24th, this is the anniversary of our arrival ; the contrast is very remarkable : we entered the bay with the temperature at 33 and not a particle of icc in it; to-day the thermometer stands at 2 with ice which has never moved, and every indication of a very severe winter. Upon the 25th October closed the hatchways and hoiued the vessel over, it becoming damp and cold between decks, the vapour funnels, of which there are five, giving u sufficient ventilation ; those over the hatchways being never closed, carry off all impurities, so that we enjoy a clear whole- some atmosphere below; this has very much contributed to the excellent S reservation of our health, and the 26th being the second anniversary of our iscovery of the " Pas .age " and the last that we should all be together, the occasion was celebrated by a small additional allowance of provisions and an extra glass o*' o^-5> which had the effect of putting all iu high spirits, so that the evening was passed most jovially in singing and dancing. — On November the 8th completed the banking up and other outside work, finally terminating our winter arrangements on the 1 Hth by covering the upper deck with eighteen inches of snow. The dcev for the last few days have been coming from the southward to their winter quarters amongst the ravines and sand hills ; ninety have been met with at one time and forty at another, but so very wild that few have been shot. Our two seasons' experience show that these animals do not migrate to the south, us is generally supposed, but bear the extreme rigour of the climate, and exist upon the scanty herbage, chiefly the dwarf willow, from ofl' which they break the snow with their feet, which tapping can be heard at a con- siderable distance when the weather is calm, and frequently leads to their discovery. The hares and ptarmigan have also descended from the high ground to the sea ridges, so that a supply of game has been kept up during the winter, which has enabled a fresh meal to be issued twice weekly, and the usual Christmas festivities to pass off with the greatest cheerfulness. As it was to be our last, the crew were determined to make it memorable, and their exertions were completely successful: each mess was gaily illuminated, and decorated with original paintings by our lower-deck artists, exhibiting the ship in her perilous positions during our transit of the Polar Seu, and divers other subjects ; but the grand featmes of the day were the enormous plum puddings, some weighing six and twenty pounds, haunches of venison, hares roasted, and soup made otthe same, with ptarmigan and sea pies. Such dainties in such profusion I should imagine never before graced a ship's lower-deck. Any stranger to have witnessed this sc«.nc could but faintly imagine that he saw a crew which had {.assed upwards of two years in these dreary regions, and three entirely upon their own resources, enjoying such excellent health, so joyful, so happy ; indeed, such a mirthful assemblage under any circumstances would be most gratifying to any officer ; but in this lonely situation I could not but feel deeply impressed 8s I contemplaied the gay and plenteous sight with the many and great mercies • • hich a kind and beneficent Providence had extended towards us, to whom alone ie thelicartfelt praises and thanksgivmgs of all for the greatblessings which we . ' ait'nerto experienced in positions the most desolate which can be conceived. M . ti 1st. — The most dreary and dark time is now passed, and severe and trying "f 'ii ^ hem. The cold of the last two months was excessive, January showing a, L>c.'ii 01 — 44^, being 17° below the corresponding period last year, and one A' V the temperature fell to — 65°, and for twenty-four hours actually averaged — 62°. I should have doubted the correctness of the thermometer (as no former experience shows so low a register) had it not been well tested the two preceding winters, when it only fell to — .00° ; but, independent of the glass, the feelings gave unmistakeable evidence of the extreme keenness of the weather, as for one entire week the temperature never rose above — 40°, the wind being about S.S.W,, from which quarter during both winters we have invariably felt the greatest cold ; I therefore imagine that in the interior the land must he very lofty, as when the wind veers to the north, which i» directly off the Polar Sea, the glass rises, showing the highest temperature when it is easterly. These low temperatures have caused nuich moisture between decks, and from not being able to hUow a sufficiency of firing to counteract the effect of this damp atmosphere, it has been materially felt by the crew ; the sick list at one period consequently increased to nineteen, five being cases of scurvy and the same of dropsy, but now happily reduced to ten, and the surgeon's report upon the scurvy of the crew today as to their general state and condition is as favourable as I could, under all circumstances, htivc anticipated. Durine the last month we have been employed gravelling a distance of 800 y&rda towards the sea ice, with the hope of its weakening it in the event of our being able to move when the seasou for navigation arrives. Upon the 3rd, told the men off that were to proceed to Englann next month viA Mackenzie and Baffin's Bay. They appeared extremely well satisfied with the arnmgement, as I explained to them my object was to send home all who had suffered the most from the severity of the climate, and to which another year might prove exceedingly trying, as well as to retain the most effective men in the event of being detained another winter. On the 15th the travellers went upon full allowance of provisions, which I have little doubt will, before they are required to start, get them in good condition. — 2l8t. The weather has been beautiful during the last week; th^ temperature, which, until the l6th, continued almost daily to fall to —.'56°, the 17tn rose to —27°; the following day to - 14° ; and on the i9th to +."J°, which sudden and deliehtful change, after the excessive cold of the last three months, is most grateful. The invalids are rapidly improving, the majority taking a daily airing of from two to three hours. The temperature at noon to-day exposed to the sun rose to +40*, 80 that the extreme severity of the winter is over ; in fact, to the present time, 5th April, the temperature daily mounts in the shade above zero, which, according to past experience, is exceedingly mild, and may be considered indi- cative of an early break-up of the ice. God grant such may be the case ! On the 1 5th it is my intention to start the parties destined to make their way to England ; and from our good sanitary condition I feel but little doubt but all will safely arrive. A fatigue party, under the con:r.iand of Mr. Court (second master), will accompany Lieutenant Haswcll for a few day i, while John Calder (captain of the forecastle), a trusty and zealous petty officer, will proceed with Lieutenant Cressweli as far as the Princess Royal Islands, and from the dep6t there will return with as many cases of potatoes and as much didcolate as can be brought on the sledge, which extra supply will give un ample allowance of those excellent articles in the event of being detained here during the ensuing winter. To this period we have not lost an individual of our crew, either by accident or disease ; the ofMcers particularly have enjoyed an immunity from sickness whicli is surprising, with the exception of Mr. Sainsbury (mate), who, since the wiiiter of 1850, has suffered with a pulmonary complaint that has entirely p-.evciited his piviticipating in tlic arduous duties of the travelling parties, or in the more exciting but not less laborious occupation of hunting over this rugged and severe country; and Mr. Payne (clerk in charge), who had been a great invalid from rheumatism until this last winter, M'hen he has made a most rapiSe», activity, energy, and aniuouH duty were required, an well a« daring this long period of inactivity, thcv have been characterised by cheerful- ness, propriety, and good conduct, which nilly entitle them to the most tavourable consioeration of their Lordships. w I haw, &0. 'A dth April 1889. RoBRRT M'Clure, Commander.'-*' Bay of Mercy, Baring's Island. 47 -5 + 18'9 .J.J Mean - 19-934 Jani> •150 '470 il9-837 + 63 + 37 + .16' 1 .1-5 Air. Maximum - ftl'O .Minimum —51-0 Mean - +l'«8 July - - - Angutl - 090 '400 •450 '756 -865 + 53 + 51 + .13 + 31 + .17-5 + 37'6 3'(l 2'K Hcplmbcr • -370 '450 '•76 + 43 + 1 + 24-6 .'ll October -100 SCO '877 + 1« -33 + 3-3 1-9 NoTember • ■750 •0.10 ,T(»'097 + 10 -40 -15-3 1-8 December •810 '490 '()4li + 11 -44 -30' 3-5 isax. January •«oo -280 19-841 + 8 -61 -27'.1 .1-4 February srooo -070 -777 -1 -47 -35-8 3-1 Rammeter. March • aruoo -410 30-083 + 5 -63 -38-4 30 Maxiwnm - 31 -000 April r SO' 430 -sao 164 + 31 -38 — 1*4 35 Minimum • 3|-»70 May ■ - '1150 -800 19-987 + .17 -25 + 10 i 3^« Alcan - 29' 906 June • 100 -480 -758 + 51 + 11 + 31' 5 .11 Air. July '000 •370 '749 + 53 + 30 + 30-7 2'9 Augnit '170 •400 -816 + 53 + 19 + .13-3 39 Maximum - +53 Minimum - —53 Miim - +0'05 SeiKember 100 •070 ■785 + 88 -4 + 30*1 8' 6 October - '.'100 •440 -986 + 16 -3.1 -6-6 3'3 NoTember '880 •460 -978 + 9 -43 -16-5 3^1 December -«70 a8^970 -944 -4 -48 -38' 1 3^7 18SS. llarometer. January - •JO' lao S9I80 19*748 -16 -63 -43' 87 4 05 Mux., .10' 72 i Min.. 2!l- 180) February ■»8() -400 30-085 -13 -57 -38'50 2-50 Mean, 39-960. Slaroh - •72n -.540 1 -(148 ♦•17 -!,» -25-4 3-30 •Vir. Max., +1?! Min., -65i Mean, -35' 93. • lt()BERT M'CM'Kl';, Commander. Her Majesty's Ship "Investigator. Game killed in the Arctic REOioMa .... Number killed. Averaffe Weight each. Total Weight. Ma»k On - 7 278 lb«. 1 I,n45 lb*. Deer - llu '» „ 7,716 .. Han-K . . 169 6 „ j 1,014 „ OrouM- 488 NflC weigbetl. 1 - - Ihielu - - IBS „ 1 — T' ' ,. , Oeeee - 39 — Wolreii 2 n — Bears ' • a - I To Id head killed 1,005. • fc. „ i * ' 1 ■. ''1 IJl. ).-..-c , J f i:nfi '*!*-':...■ IT No.H. !l ilvtrjM ni tabfiaW: Commander M'Clurk to Lieutenant Hmwbix. */ A'^MUhitO ,TiroaO'W[ n Her Majeaty'i Discovery Ship" Investigator," Prince of Wales' Strait, 2l8t October 1860. Mkmoranuum. Ab it is of the utmost importance both as regards the UHtioniil dignity, eqiiall}' as a geographical subject, tnat it should be ascertained us far as it is possible, whether the waters in which we rt present are communicate with those ot Barrow Strait, or terminate in a bay, whicn, if the former, will decide the question of a North-West Passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans ; — conformably with such a view it is my intention to proceed with Mr. Court (second master) and a party of men upon this interesting service on Monday next, the 21st inst., or as soon afler as I feel assured that the vessel will Ik: in security from the dangerous influence which may be apprehended from the ensuing spring tides ; as, however, it is not impossible that during my absence, in consequence either of a disruptioQ in the ice or some unforeseen circumstances over whicn you may have no control, that the vessel may be driven to the southward, and upon my return nowhere to be seen. It is, therefore, my direction that in the event of any such unhappy occur- rence, that you exert yourself to the utmost to land at all hazards upon either of the islands, as circumstances will re ider most fa\ ourabic, tbe third whalc'^boat complete, and the stores as per margin. lu the execution of a service whicn niav be attended with some ditficidty, you will nppoint Lieutenant Cresswell and Mr. Wynniatt (mate) to its super- intendence, impressing upon those officers and the men under their orders the paramount neces- sity for their most strenuous enaeavours in carry- ing this service into effect, as upon its being executed will depend the existence of the absent Earty. I feel assured that nothing further need e urged to excite the active co-operation of all concerned. Should the above take place, you will upon the breaking up of the ice in the ensuing summer, use your utmost exertions to return to these islands with the least possible delay, where (if I find that you do not arrive by the middle of August, I shall consider that you are disabled or otherwise incapacitatedfiom carrying these orders into effect, and shall most likely push to Port Leopold) ample instructions will be left for your future proceedings under a cairn to be erected on the summit of the larj^e island. As so little is known with respect to the clearance of ice from thesi waters, it might so happen that you may be unable to penetrate durmg the whole of the navigable season as far as these islands ; in the event of such a contin- gency you will considc)' it your duty, when you arrive at the conclusion that nil further perse- verance is unavailing in endea\ouring to carry the purport of these instructions into effect, to secure the vessel for the winter in some harbour or bay, sheltered from the pressure of the heavy ice, so as to avoid the severe iiippings that she would otherwise be subjected to ; the consequences of which to a sliip already Aveakened by a winter in the pack are to be appre- hended. Finally, in the supposition that you do not return to these islands, or receive any other directions, you will in the summer of 1852 endeavour to recross the Polar Sea on ^our return to England commencing' vour homewRrd voyage immediately the navigation will admit, so as to avoid if possible the having to remain a third winter in the ice. You will communicate with Her Majest^s ship " Plover," in Kotzebue Sound, and from thenrs proceed to tiie Sandwich G4 ■ ■ . Twelve Moiitbn' Prodiioni fur aann inou. »t « dally ■llowane* uf :_ Pvmmiciin - lilb. Soup - Ipt. Oatmeal or Flour t it'i « - 41b. Urcad - - • .- - 1 .. (.'ocoii . - - - 1 01. Tea - . - - i.. Sugar - Ii» Hum - iKlll- Boat's Store: - Tent (frame, with 4 pikes) 1 ill No. FowlioK piece (pareuuioii dble ) 1 •. Pereuuion cupit a,ooo „ Shot, No. 1 - S.'iibv l>o. Nn. -t • - '.'5 „ Uulleta (preNent musuet) Powder (fine) iOO ill No. - lOlbl. Fuel (coid, apure ipari, (tc.) .Mu»ket> - tj ill No. Hall cBririd(te M.) rouiidn. Cnp« (piTou«»ioiO I.nco in Nil. 1 Ca\i of ht.'uiiK rum lor fuel. Hiiffalu robes - - a ill .No Itai'Oim bioiikets - -1 „ lllHokets (woollen) " 7 „ ('ariwt bootH T paim. Fiihermaii'a boota 7 ,. Bok clotli clotbi'H 7 Ruiti. Fiannel - Ill) yd«. Stocklags - ^6 pairk. Mita - :lti ,. Hoot h">- - M ,. WiO.h « .^» - - 14 in No. Twine •J lbs. Lead (nheet) 10 „ Fearnought 10 jrd«. A«e» - :i in Nu. Green crape 10 yds. Half bouts - - 1 4 paint. Shovel. - - -J in No. Nci'dlea, Nails of ai/er, Kishliooks niid I. inn. ) H rifi iNliiiuiH to recruit the ircw iiiul otliorwise riHt tlu- vt'HHtl, tVoin whciici' yon will cutninunicutf ii dftuiled uccoiint of your proffi'dingM to tlie Sfcrctary of tin- Adminilty. When you liiiVe miflicieutly nlrcslu'd tlu- men you will (tail for iilling at Vulpuriiiso, reportinj^ your nrriviil to the romrnnuder-in* KiUjIaml, ca - „ . , „ ., Chief by letter, Khould hv not he at that jiluie Itomiiir M'Ci.tiHK, ( 'oniruuiider. No. y. (.'omniiuidor M'Ci.i'UK to Ijeutenunt Hahwki.i,, Lieuteiumt (Jhk.hmwki.i., mid Mr. WvNNiATT (Mate), the Odicers in charge of the travelling I'artieti from Her MajeHty's Diseovery Shij) " Invest igatiir." Uy Robert M'Clure, K-sq., Comniaiuler of Her Maje.st_y's I)i8e»)very Ship " Investigator." Will wK AS I consider that it will he fully carrying out the beneficent niten- tiouH of Her Majesty^ Government, and in accordance witli the viewti of my Lordi* roininisHioners of the Adiniruity, that parties from this ship should lie ilespatcl'K'd (nltiiough such service may possihly render their rejoining her douotful) to trace the southern shore of Marrow Strait, and the soutn-eust coast of Prince Albert's Land, in iiopes of meeting some indication of the missing Expedition under Sir John Franklin, the tenor of whose instructions, if w.ii indeed he has been enabled to carry them into clfect, would lead to tlie sup- ' souXmiu" .hoi«. position that from ('ape Walker southward and westw.Tid would be the most LUuuiwm crM.w,ii, pr„i,n|,le locality to glean some tidings of his hitherti .slerious fate -our Mr. Wypni.it. (ni.u), position iKing particularly tiivouraole lor pioscciitnig t..is (iiity, tin reby to u NoriiKMUrn niiorr. ccrtaiu cxtciit settling a point which has created much and deep solicitude tuioM for wh pllrt^ apiougst all denominations ot our countrymen — 1 lay down a tew in.-dc your progrcRH in navigating an unknown coaat, is very likely to \ie attended with oontarleH which would place you in a morit rmharraHHing Mituution, nil which may be obviated by making direct for Kotzebuc Sound, and by coiiHting the northern nhore of America you are certain of open water, abundance of firewood, and plenty of game, neither of which you could calculate upon in Harrow Strait. 5th. Having directed your attention to the principal objects connected with the service you arc employed upon, as well as to every point which could happen rclntivcly with the critical position of the ship, aninentM to meet those; contingencies by placing boats upon the eastern shore and Princess Royal InIuikIs, with a large dep6t of provisions and clothing, I feel perfectly satisHcd that under any of the circumstances embraced in these orders no apprehension need Ih; entertained for your ultimate tfcty. Finally. Under the event alluded to in Article 4, you will consider yourself detached (provided that you 8cc nothing of this ship while going to the "IMover") ibr the purpose of making the best of your way to England, where, immediately upon ^our arrival, you will report yourself to the Secretary of the Admiralty, ciicloHmg the orders under which you have acted, with an outline of our proceedings in as intelligible a form as your remembrance of the different circumstances will allow. . . Given under my hand on board Her Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investi- fftttor," beset in the ice in I'rince of Wales' Strait, in latitude 7"^" 50' K., ongitude 117° 55' W., the 18th duv of April 1851. (Signed) Uobert M'Cujre, Commander. "* NoTK. — You arc to keep a Diary, from which, upon your return, you will \k required to draw up a detailed account of your proceedings for my information. — R. M'C, No. 10. The following is an Abstract of the Proceedings of Her Britannic M-jesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator," since parting company with the ■*' Herald" upon the Slst July 1850, ofFCTape Lisbourni. At 5.20 A.M., August 2d, latitude 72° 1' N., longitude 166° 12' W., made the ice, which did not appear heavy, but upon entering it a short dist».ncc was undeceived and ran out. August 5th. — In running along the pack edge endeavouring to find an opening, exchanged numbers with the " rlover," and at 1 1 a.m. made a low shingle betich, to the eastward of Wainwright's Inlet ; at midnight rounded Point Biirrow in 73 fathoms, but from the foggy state of the weather did not sec it. August 8th. — 1.45 A.M., being off Point Drew, sent Mr. Court, second master, and Mr. Micrtstihiiif?, interpreter, to deposit « icjMce of our having passed, who met some Esquimaux that had arrived thre. :' ) j previously ; these trade with the Russians, and were very friendly ; therefore sent a letter, with the chance of it reaching the Admiralty. We also heard from them that last year three boats had passed to the eastward, with white men and Indians, which was most probably Lieutenant Pullen. In the evening erected a cairn, and buried another notice at Point Pitt. August 9th. — Passed the Colville about forty miles from its entrance, in three fathoms and a half. August 1 1th. — Deposited a notice upon Jones's Island, which was thickly strewed with driftwood. In the forenoon two baidars, containing twenty-four natives, came alongside ; the chief possessed a gun with " Barnet, 1840," on the lock, obtained from the Russians ; bartered tobacco for salmon and ducks. In the uftemoon comnmnicated with another party, who were exceedingly intelli- gent and dean ; sent despatches for the Admiralty, via Colville, and, from what the interpreter states, believe that they will an'ivc. August 12t'n. — Several Imidurs cuiric alongside ; received fish and ducks for presents of Iwads and tobacco. These are adroit pilferers. H t:.; l-fl ■If M i'[ I' ti^ I* 98 August 14th.4mUun., upon 'a shoal deht thilua north of Yarboroueh Inlet, having, during the last two daya, narrowly escaped several of these dangerous banks, which are very little above the water, and hidden i'roni view by the ice ; hove off with the stream anchor, but unfortunately upset a whale boat, and lost eleven casks of beef, baving to carry sail to prevent being set again on shore. August 15th.— Found.it impossible to get two miles in any direction, the ice having closed from the northward, resting upon the shoals in that direction, and to the southward, the low banks which we grounded upon yesterday ; anchored to await some favourable change- August l6th — Ice to the northward of the shoals slightly eased, leaving about 150 yards of open water ; weighed and warped through two cables' length of ite to get into it, which occupied six hours of hard labour, so heavy was the pack. August 1 7th. — At noon the weather, which had been foggy, ' cleared with a breeze from N.E. ; made sail through heavy sailing ice, occasionally striking violently ; navigation along this coast verv dangerous, the sand-banks being low and numerous. Latitude 70" 30' N., longitude 148° 4' W August 21st. — Made the Pelly Islands off the Mackenzie; since the 1 7th have encountered ver^y heavy ice ; ran ninety miles into a bight, which brought us to tiie solid pack ; fortunately we were enabled to run out of it before it closed. August 24th. — Observing some huts a little to the westward of Point Warren, sent despatches for the Admiralty, with the hopes of their being forwarded by the Hudson's Bay Company ; this trilie, however, have no traffic with theni^ but barter with others farther west, who trade with the Colville, gi\ing as their reason that the Hudson Bay Company had given the Indians water which had killed many of them, and they did not wish to have any. They appear sa\ age and warlike, and are at enmity with their neighbours. Brought the despatches back. August 30th. — Observing a post erected on the beach, near Point Maitland, in Liverpool Bay, sent to examine it, and deposit a notice of our passing; found it was an Esquimaux nr>ark, who apparently had recently quitted it, there being several caches containing bird - ^ ush. In the ufternocii, while approaching Cape Bathurst, observed Esciuiniaux on the shore; upon communicating with them, found that they belo igcd to a tribe now at Cape Bathurst, who were catching whales, and the same who had seen Sir J. Bichardson last year. In the evening, being thick and getting into three and a half fathoms, anchored betw een Bailhe's Islands and the main land. August .'J 1st.— Proceeded to Cape Bathurst ; tribe consisted of thret; liuiuhed ; very friendly ; would go south in three weeks ; ga\e them despatches tor tlie Admiralty, a gun and ammunition to the chief, and many presents among them ; and, judging from their intelligence and cleanly appearance, have great expec- tation of their reaching. SeptemiKjr 1st. — Off Cape Batlmrst ; many natives came on board, and being nearly calm, remained .until the evening, when a breeze springing up, we took our final leave of the Esquimaux upon the American coast, fully convinced that neither the ships nor any of the crews of Sir J. Franklin's exj)c 46' N. Lieutenant Hftiwelli Lai .70» 38', Long. Hi*. Lieutenant Cresswellt Lat. 74" 16', Lonjf. 117° 40' W. Mr. Wynniatl, Lat. 72" 6" N. Long. 107" 42'. September llth.— Ship beset, latitude 72° 52', longitude 117* S'W: { birt ice in motion. October 8th. — Since the llth of last month, have been drifting in the pack ; narrowly escaped destruction several times, until with a heavy nip at 3 a.m. this day, which listtid the ship 3j; we were firmly fixed for the space of nine months in latitude 72'' 4/', longitude 1 17 34'. October 10th Took possession of Prince Albert's Land, distant four miles. October 1 8th. — And to-day. Of the Princess Royal Isles, lying in the centre Ltng.' u7» •«' lo* w, of Prince of Wales' Strait, distant four miles from the ship., . There is erected a large cairn, pole, and ball upon its summit, and have deposited three months' provisions for sixty-six men, besides leaving a boat and some ammunition. October 21st The Captain, Mr. Court, and party started to trace this strait towards the N.E. October 26th.— Discovered the entrance into Barrow Strait in latitude 73° 3(y N., longitude 114" 14' W., which establishes the existence of a north- west passage. October 30th. — Five musk oxen shot upon Prince Albert's Land, which ter- minated our operations for 1850. April 18th, 1851. — This day despatched three travelling parties to search the coast-line, under Lieutenant Haswell, to the S.E. towards WoUaston Land; Lieu- tenant Cresswell in the direction of Banks Land; and Mr. Wynniatt (mate) to the N.E., who respectively reached the position, as noted in the margin, and traced the coast as per the accompanying chart. June 2d. — The Captain and Mr. Miertsching (the interpreter) communicated with the Esquimaux upon Prince Albert's Land, about sixty miles south of our position, who had previously been met by Lieutenant Haswell. They traced the coast-line as marked in the chart, and state that there are many of their tribes inhabiting the land towards the south, but that they know of none to the north- ward ; they are a kind, simple people, and have never before seen the white man, at whom they were evidently alarmed- July 1 4th. — Ice opened without any pressure, and the vessel «as again I'airly afloat, but so surrounded with it, that we only drifted with the pack, having been able to use our sails hut twice, and then only for afew hours, up to August 14th; when we attained our furthest northern position in Prince of Wales' Strait, latitude 73" 14' 19" N., longitude 115" 32'^ 30" W. August 16th. — Finding our passage into Barrow Strait obstructed by N.E. winds setting large masses of ice to the southward, which had drifted the ship fifteen miles in tliat direction during the last twelve hours, bore up to run to the southward of Haring Island. August 20th.— Latitude 74° 27' N., longitude 1220 32' 15" W., Iiave hud clear water to reach thus far, running within a mile of the coast the wjiole distance, when our progress was impeded by the ice resting upon the shore ; secured to a large grounded Hoe piece in twelve fathoms ; ice appears to have but reccntlj' been detached from this coast. August 29th. — Ship in great danger of being crushed or driven on shore by the ice coming in with heavy pressure from the Polar Sea, driving her along within one hundred yards of the land for half a mile, heeling her 1.5°, and raising her bodily one foot eight inches, when we again became stationary and the ice quiet. September 10th. — Ice again in motion, and ship driven from the land into the main pack with heavy gale from the S.W. September lltli. — Succeeded in getting clear of the pack and secured to a large grounded Hoc, latitude 74° 29' N., longitude 122° 20' W. September 19th. — (Jlear water along shore to the eastward; cast off and worked in that direction, with occasional obstructions and several narrow escapes from the stupendous Polar ice until the evening of the 23rd, when we ran upon a mud-bank, having six feet under the bow and five fathoms astern ; hove off without sustaining any damage. September 24th. — At daylight, observing Barrow Straits ftdl of ice and large masses setting into the bay. determined upon making this our M-inter quarters, and finding a well-sheltered spot upon the south side of the shoal upon which we last night grounded, ran in and anoliorcd in four fathoms, latitude 74° 6' N., longitude 1 17" 51' W. ; this night were frozen in and have not since moved. The position is most excellent, being well protected from the heavy ice H2 i:;. 60 by the projection of the reef which throws it clear of the ship six hundred yards. The currents along the coasts of the Polar Sea appeared to lie influenced in the direction more or less by the winds ; but certainly upon the west side of Baring Island there is a permanent set to the eastward ; at one time we found it as much as two knots during a perfect calm, and that the flood-tide sets from the westward, we have ascertained beyond a doubt, as the opportunities niforded during our detention along the western shore of this island gave ample proof. The prevailing winds along the American shore and in the Prince ot Wales, Strait we found to be N.E. but upon this coast S.S.W. to N.W. A ship stands no chance of getting to the westward by entering the Polar Sea, the water along shore being very narrow and wind contrary, and the pack impenetrable ; but through Prince of Wales' Strait, and by keeping along the American coast, I conceive it practicable. Driftwood is in great abundance upon the east coast of Prince of Wales Strait, and on the American shore also much game. In this vicinity the hills aboimd in reindeer and hare, which remain the entire winter ; we have been very fortunate in procuring upwards of four thousand pounds. The health of the crew has been and still continues excellent, without any diminution of number, nor have we felt the slightest trace of scurvy. It is my intention, if possible, to return to England this season, touching at Melville Inland and Port Leopold ; but should we not be again heard of, in all probability we shall have been carried into the Polar pack, or to the westward of Melville Island, in either of which any attempt to send succour would only be to increase the evil, as any ship that enters the Polar pack must he inevi- tably crushed ; therefore, a dep6t of provisions, or a ship at Winter Harbour, is the best and only certainty for the safety of the surviving crews. No traces whatever have been met with, nor any information obtained from the natives, which could by any possibility lead to the supposition that Sir J. Frank- lin's expedition, or any of his crews, nave ever reached the shores we have visited or seaiched ; nor have we been more fortunate with respect to the " Enterprise," not having seen her oince parting company at the Straits of Magellan, the 20th April 1850. This notice was deposited by a travelling party in April 1852, consisting of Captain M'Clure, George Gibbs, A.B. Mr. Court, 2nd Master, „ Bounsall, A.B. John Calder, Captain Forecastle, .John Davis, A.B. Serjeant Woon, R.M., Peter Thompson, Captaiii I'Oie-top. Whoever finds this, it is requested it may be forwarded to the Secretary of the Admiralty. Dated on board her Britannic Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator," frozen in, in the Bay of •' Mercy," latitude 74° 6' N., longitude 117" 54' W., April 12th, 18.52. RoBKUT M'Cluhe, Commander. Unless there is a vessel now at Melville Island it is not my intention to revisit it, but make the best of my way down the Straits. — R. M'C. No. n. Commander M*Ci.ure to the Skcrktarv of the Admiiialtv. H. M. Discovi " Baring's very Ship " Investigator," Bay of Mercy, taring's" Island, 10th April, 1853. Sir, (Received 7th October.) In the event of our not getting to England this year, I think it necessary to acquaint you, for the information of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, ti :_ T .^..j„u:^„. men J-4V/lU3iIIUB wnat our operations wm oe, lo encci iiiai oiyeci in loOt, i may 'oe enabled to take such co-operative measures for our relief as may appear expedient. Should the ice break up in this bay sufficiently early to permit of our getting through the Straits this season, and finding the water open to the eastward of Leopold Island, it would be my object to push forward, without stopping to take on board any provisions from Port Leopold ; but n, contrarywise, the ice should be thick towards Lancaster Sound, I would, if possible, proceed to Port Leopold and complete a twelvemonth's provisions, and then risk wintering in the pack or getting through, in preference to remaining at the above port ; if, however, we are detained in this bay until next year, it will then be requisite to leave towards the end of April and make for Port Leopold, where I am aware that there is a good boat, a house, and ample supplies ; and, when the navigable season opens, proceed to Ponds Bay, coasting along the south shore of Barrow Straits ; arriving at Ponds Bay, and if finding from the Esquimaux that no whalers have as yet been there, I should there await their appearance as long as my provisions would admit, and then go down the west shore of Baffin's Bay, keeping close along the land floe, where whalers or their boats are almost certain of being met with ; failing this, I should cross to Discoe with the hope of getting a passage in some of the Danish vessels, which come there annually and leave about the beginning of September, or, being too late for them, either charter or purchase one of their coasting schooners which I believe trade amongst the settlement?, if she v/as capable of standing an Atlantic voyage ; could neither of these be accomplishet', we must of necessity remain until the following season at that settlement. Should any of Her Majesty's ships be sent for our relief, and we have quitted Port Leopold, a notice containing information of our route will be left at the door of the house on Whalers' Point, or on some conspicuous position ; if, however, on the contrary, no intimation should be found of our having been there, it may be at once surmised that some fatal catastrophe has happened, either from being carried into the Polar Sea or smashed in Barrow Straits, and no survivors lell. If such should be the case, which however I will not anticipate, it will then be quit,e unnecessary to penetrate further to the westward for our relief, as by the period that any vessel could reach that port we must, from want of provisions, all have perished ; in such a case I would submit that the officer may be directed to return, and by no means incur the danger of losing other lives in quest of those who will then be no more. As, however, it may occur (as was the case with Sir John Ross) that the ice may not break up in Prince Regent's Inlet during the whole summer, it is as well to provide against such a contingency ; if such should happen, it would be necessary to winter at Port Leopold, unless apprised of the locality of any ship that might be sent for our relief, which I think might be accomplished v ithout any very great difficulty, as although such vessel may not be enabled to get far up the Straits, yet as Admiralty Inlet would be pretty certain of being clear of ice, she might proceed thither, and in some secure bay freeze in, and when the Straits were firmly frozen about the middle of October, a small travelling party could be despatched with the intelligence ; the whole would then proceed to her, and although rather late in the season, men working for their lives are not likely to be discouraged by a little cold. Whatever may be the final tennination of this long, tedious, but I hope not unimportant voyage, I beg. Sir, that you will assure their Lordships that in every stage I have been guided entirely by what I have considered to be my duty in prosecuting to the utmost the object for which the expedition was fitted out ; and although we have not succeeded in obtaining any information which could throw the slightest clue upon the fate of our missing countrymen, I hope that the services performed in the tracing of a very gie it extent of coast line, the discovery of much new land, a portion inhabited by a simple and primitive people not hitherto known, and, above all, the acciu-ate knowledge of that Passage BETWEEN THE ATLANTIC AND pAciFic OcEANH, which for SO luauy huiidrcd years has baffled maritime Europe, its very existence being almost considered sceptical, will, I trust, be considered events sufficiently interesting and important, to elicit from their Lordships a favourable consideration of our services. I have, &c. RonERT M'Cluhe, Commander. m t i H3 Srcretary of the Admiralty to Commander M'Clurb, H. M. Discovery Ship " Investigator." Sir, Admiralty, /th October 1853. I AM commanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to acknow- ledge the receipt of the despatches forwarded by you on the 1 0th April last, delivered at this office by Lieutenant Cresswell, and in wliich you report the completion of the North- West Passage. my Lords have perused the narrative of your proceedings in search of the expedition imder Sir John Franklin with equal interest and satisfaction ; and, as a mark of their approval of the great exeitions and untiring perseverance with which that search, though unavailing, was prosecuted ; have been pleased this day to promote you to the rank of Captain. My Lords desire that you will signify to the utticerS, seamen, and marines of the " Investigator," that their p. useworthy and exemplary conduct throughout a trying employ, entitles them to their Lordships' highest commendation ; and that the return to their country of officers and men who have so worthily distinguished themselves, is anxiously looked for by their Lordships. ,,^, ^ ' .v;l:f i ffff: - (Signed) W. A. B. Hamiutom , Itr- »:r '•ii::i'j- •tif»'i'-'' :i(P*^-.'^i'ii1ii P'i'^ ^. Arrnr^. Proceedings of the Squadron in the Arctic Seas, under the Command of Sir Edward Belcher, C.B. ■-■■ ^'.-?' ;h>i.* Wirtyj !-;-••' • . , !;::-No. 1. Sir Edward Belcher C.B., to the Secretary of the Admiralty, Loudon. H. M. Discovery Ship " Assistance," Winter Quarters, Northumberland Sound, Sir, Sept. 22nd, 1852, Lat. 76° 52' N-, Long. 97° W. Being at this moment about to examine the coast (by sledge) easterly to Cape Becher and Hamilton Island, I take this precaution, in the event of any party from the " North Star " visiting our cairns, to uftbrd the latest information of our proceedings. On the 1 4th of August, as my despatch leit with Commander PuUen would inform you, I quitted Beechey Islano, leaving there Captain Kellett with his instructions, and who would see the "North Star" safely docked before quitting. Steering on, we passed up WeUington Channel without observing Baring's Bay or the deep indentations of the new chart, nor the Mount Franklin of De Haven. On the morning of the i6th we noticed a very remarkable pile on a hill, appa- rently the work of man, and immediately moved on in the " Pioneer," examined it, and obtained my first well-fixed position in these regions. The pile was found to be merely the remains of a dyke, vhich, being harder than the surrounding matter, had remained until it had acquired a height of 20 feet, about 1 4 in the meridian, and 6 feet E. and W. The position of our cairn about 100 yards south of it, was in latitude 76° W 52" N., Jongitude 92° 48' 42" W., evidently the rise from the point where one of the searching parties observed in 76° 13' distant about two miles west from us. But the bays, formed north and south, free t4>>xn ice, do not exist in w^y manner worthy of more than slight indentations, '/'he ice or snow (as the southern land is very low) must have deceived the previous visitors. I think I may safely say that not the most distant hope of any communication by sea exists in this direction with .Jones's Sound. Although from the fogs and vapours, which were particularly noticed from the crow's nest on board, and by tnyself Iroui the deck, exhibiting at times the appearance of smoke from fires, — 1 am inclined to suspect extensive lakes or arms of the sea, &c., rumiing parallel to the northern land, and possibly connect- ing by some very narrow neck, but westerly, much as it would otherwise mate- riallv infiueiicc the tides in this region. I now snenk dotenninedly in calling things by their proper names, at least if any tides are acknowledged in the English Chunncl — regular rise and full, ebb and flood. Leaving this position, and having already made my mind up not to interfiere with any land which could 'have becai '9001 'atid named' hy Captain Penny's pMple, 1 pushed on to the westward, reaching Cappi Becher about m^night, where a deposit of forty-two days' provisions for tcu men was well secured, and notice of our movement left. Passing westerly, we reached about 4 pni. the extreme land. Here I erected a very conspicuous cairn, and from the summit, ab the gallr li Commander-in-Chief, " Exmouth Island ;" the summit rnmed 'Milne Peak," our second in command. To the eastward of me la;, a long table island, to which Commander Richards would repair and connect it withour survey. Fn m tl'e summit of »; isis land, .'580 feet above the sea, and in latitude 77° 15', 1 had ant'cipated ti;' satisfaction of commanding a most extensive range. I was miserably disap,nt)inted, and after watching two suc- cessive days hr i">vv; ibrough snow storm.-; for merely so:r.e glimpse of the land I had now to v.';' . : was barely rewarded by ascertaining that an open sea of about seventeen le^ would enable me to reach it, if the wind permitted ; for the boat, when sleusc mden, with tent, bedding, provisions, &c., was not very safe, even on the Thames above bridge. Fortune favoured us, and by aid ii" sails (tent bottom) and paddles, we reachcl ouv destination the next aftern ini, after six hours' toil. The ice then moviu;': on to the land completely entra) ;>'^d us; but we were safi? on terra firma. Tlick snowy weather continued, 'ith bright gleams at times, aftbrdiny us occasionally glimpses of Exmouth mid Table Islands. I took possessioii of this new addition to H ■! Maje: 'y'd territories under the title of "North Cornwall," in c^mplitnent to His Royii! Highness the Heir Apparent. Waiting to i.'cure the poaii/on, whicii ^^as dctti- mined to be in latitude 77° 33' 30" N., longitude about ,<):''W., and u wing ascended Lh-,' highest point of land (within three miles N.F. ) ..ui satisfied myself that 1 ' jiniuanded the north-west extreme ibr a radius oC five miles ut least, and that ih: hind within the range of Exmouth Island (seventeen rji' s disliint) existed '. :^3tM .irdly of me, I rttiuiied to the Iwacb : and, havi:^,:, liauied tlv, boul. overlnnd to 1 . ir the ice whioli lioc' »:atrapped us, launched in the upen Auier. and y\i\]Qi\ ak/.ig the soufh-weutern line of the island about seventeen iailes, where ve iandiri ;m."1 ctk uivpi'd for the night. This position jirovcd in !»■ tiie southern arrle of North Cornwall, situated in 77° 28' 50" N. The wui-icr «!• 1 continuec; tiiick, with occasional snow falls, and hiding iio-t oi' the objefts whicl. I ivas so anxious to obtain; indeed, barelv ■ufhcient of Kxmiuth and TU:\. ImIiukL! to s'jcure my position. But in the eastern horizon, v-lic;e the tuv it times shone brightly, I was enabled, from a very elevated riosition, < ^ siUiiify ins self that nc land was visible in the eastern liovizon for thirty .nilcs, atul the cistern low extrenn'ty of this land. North Cornwall, about t*n miles E.N.K. Throughout this vcrv interesting search not a particle of driftwood has been noticed snice quit'ii i; Village Point, and not a trace of human beings. Animal life seems to fail utun- quitting Exmouth Island. It is possible that the snow >i7ov have covered in; lv objects ; hut we noticed them even where heavier snow had fallen on Table Island. h (Air unfortunate countrymen have " taken the floe, and drifted with it," / their ''kk' is hopeless. If we may jud'je from the aspects of the fioes, where they hiivf come into collision, or where th-jy piled themselves in layers over forty feet on the north- western extremities of the islands : the feeling was disheartening. AVe noticed nothing equal to it in Melville Bay. Our only resource now is the close search of the coast line west and south- westerly, and north and easterly, for any traces of vessels or crews. 'I'le tides in the parallel of 77° 30' are regular east and west, the flood coming from the cast, and that tide to the north appearing to prevail at a depth below the ordinary thickness of the floe, as we frequently noticed detached heavy masses drawing some eight or ten feet, passing rapidly and forcibly against the weather Hoe eijge and a stiff breeze. Tlie boat was on one occasion so ibrced tc windward and sto\e. Finding little chance of better weather, young ice forming, and our position beinar very precarious in such a frail boat,. against the glassy ice e\en now on the surface, we took advantage of the lull, and fortunatel}- effected our escape •under j^i;.'at ditliculty to Table Island, — the day following Exmouth Island, 1 forward, rejoining Coninuinder Richards and party before leaving Village I'Sv.. . I cannot take leave of the little boat without expressing, in common wii • her crew, our luhnirntion of her most perfect adaptation for the si-rvicc co ':, plated. She had, it is true, sund". -veie injuries; but, under Pv ' 'rleii. a- escaped and returned safely. Siic yet, I trust, much to earn be is laid up with her "honours due." was named the " Hamilton, . ali- ment to Cftjiiaiii IliUiiilion, who knidly iini me the iiiodei from w''ii>.i '• ■ was planned. From our examination of this Northern Sea, I now feel con /in e' that the so-termed Sn:"Ui's and Jones's Sounds are connected immediately wjth t'ii 65 Northern Sea. If Franklin passed eo.iitcrly through Lancaster Sound, to try the openings of Jones's or Smith s outlets, we may yet fall upon his traces, as m}' ov.n spring movements will carry me in that direction. Commander PuUen or Mr. M'Cormick may have already in parts ettlcd this important question; they were fully impressed by me with the importance of that course ol search. Our parties returned to the ship on the 8th of September, having been absent bnt sixteen days. It was satisfactory at all events to find, that the opinion I had formed of the season had been fully borne out, the vessels being securely frozen in from the period we quittcJ.. So rapidly indeea did the ice appear to be uniting in one common floe, that immediate preparations were made for sending out autumnal parties, with the dep6ts for the southern spring search. The 13th of September was indeed fixed for starting, but gaps were noticed from our hill, (one of the highest in this vicinity'* which entirely stopped our proceedings. l?vcr tually on the 'i2nd, I determined on endeavouring to search closely by the CO ist-line between this and Cape Becher, as our rapid movement might have caused some little object to pass unnoticed — not probable. This letter was intended to be ueposited at the depdt there, for Commander PuUen. Circumstances, now to be detailed, prevented our getting more than one-third of the distance ; our return we had to be grateful for. On the morn- ing of the 22nd, the same sledges and leading officers started on this service unfortunately without a boat. Having reached and pitched our tents for the third night, on an island about twelve miles to the southward of Mt. Percy, or eighteen from the ship, the ice also betraying symptoms of great weakness ; bad weather set in, broke up the ice, and cut us off from communication with the mainland for more than a week, reducing us to half allowance, and materially depressing the spirits of our men. Food we had in a walrus, which we killed ; olso plenty of fuel. But no one knew how long this imprisonment was to last ; and the anxiety too often expressed for very low temperatures, was uncommon in these cold regions. At length our wishes were in some measure realized ; the comminuted floes froze once more into ice that bore, and we escaped to the main, skirting its edge until we gained a safe landing at night, after sundry unpleasant escapes. Further expeditions this season were cut off, not only by the severity of the cold, but by the sea maintaining a temperature which prevented heavy ice from forming. I now (having retained this letter) proceed to add my observations on our late cruise. The subject is one which requires but little comment, viz., the visual discoveries of Penny. It is my wish to give him every credit, for he is entitled to much for what he has done. He has evinced a masterly and vigorous intellect, beyond the usual powers of men not educated for surveying operations. Here, however, I cease. It is probable that he saw beyond what he had any right to see ; but our longitudes, &c., will evince, not in the right direction. Therefore, although I disclaim any mathematical right he has, I willingly give him up all his possible radius of vision from any point which we can see, and from which, although never visited by him, we v.jight be seen. I have, therefore, throwing overboard the true bearing as well as the possi- bility of his seeing our points of the termination of the Queen's Channel, retained the names of Sir John and Lady Franklin as our turning points (notwithstanding an island intervenes, cutting off Cape Becher at about twelve miles to the south- ward). The names he has given may be scattered over the intermediate points. On my return the ship was housed in, stores landed, and every preparation made for winter. As it had been intimated to me, that magnetic observations on a complete s^ale dnrinar the 'inter, would lie important, an observatory was constructed oi ( i '^. ...ui tbe d(.ciiiiatiois magnetometer set up. I am happy to say, that vo^ • cers from bt,;ii vessels are engaged upon this delicate but tedious ■ luty ; o'^i ' K trust that our reco.J.i may be able to tell their ov^ii tale. As m next despatches will be sent by the "prirr; travelling parties, to meet Captain Iwellett to the S.M'., and Cominandc- i ullen to the S.E., 1 ^^ill wait imtil the period for starting arrives, when I Lope to be able to state our pros- pects and intentions more fully. I have, kr.. » Edwarh Belcher, '• -■ ' ' Captain Commanding Arctic Expedition. 4 t ■ N i I ■1 1. r I "« t' .(••■• : . , . • ■ ■ •: ■••■ ^ ' ■ ' •' "i, - •' ■ ■■ I . ■ t> "Csptftio Sir E. Bblcheh, C.B., to the Seckeiarv of the Admiralty, London.. via' |ii'tt>*-»M;i J ■ il " » \ -H.M.S. " Avfristance," Northumberland Sound. ' ^f Sir, ! ; .v> ; -^k'n '< April 9. 1853. As it it possibk tfalat. either the oiBcer despatched by Captain Kellet, or that from Commander PuUen may call at tha cairns where these letters may be deposited, in conformity with instructions given , to < those officers on the '14th August last ; — "' I have now to acquaint you, in continuation of my last (which accompanies '^ this) for the information of my Lord» Commissionen of the Admiralty, that but one case of sickness and death has occurred in this division, viz., that of ' William Cutbush R.M., who departed this life on 27th February, after a long and tedious illness of diseased lungs, aged thirty-four. This is the third of the selected marines of this ship, unfit for this service. The crew generally have been maintained in good health and workin^^ condi- tion, and at tnis present moment are prepared to start on the sled^ duties. Between the 22d and 29th ult. I pushed over a dep6t of provisions amount- ing to 1,224 rations, or fifty-one days for twenty-four men (to Cape Lady Franklin). The party was commanded by Commander Richards, and returned in good spirits without a casualty, which, at this early season is, I believe, almost without precedent. The winter has been severe, as low as — 62°. 5; our spring, or first part of March severe, as low as — 57°* 6, and again as high in a few days following, as +27' ; mean of ten days consecutive, + 9' 5. The general opinion I have been able to form as to a very early and mild season, has determined me on sending forward the south weskem searching division under Commander Richards and Lieutenant Osbom, with four com- missariat sledges forthwith. These commissariat sledges will, seriatim, continue to victual the detachment for periods of five, eleven, sixteen, and twenty-two days } at the end of which time Commander Richards and Lieut. Osborn, will be ■atitnwd within a few left with forty days' provisions each, having, it is to be hoped, searched 200 miles. sTiMrtinic. ^hc first slcdgc retums to the ship on the tenth day ; second, on the twenty- second ; third, on thirty-second ; the fourth on fortieth day from the date of setting out. I purpose moving nearly about the same time (or pousibly waiting for the return of the first sledge) to the N.E,, following up the search of last season towards the head of Baffin's Bay, where in all probability I may meet with some one from the " North Star." Until the ic<. oreaks up, possibly June or July, it is quite impossible to form any plans for the ship. Indeed, much will depend on the great western move- ment of the ice before any navigation can be risked in these seas, where the ' ide has such fatal influence if caught outside any of the curves of shelter affoided by the islets between this and Cape Becher ; and then it must be on the eastern sides of them (the islands). - At this moment the amount of provision remaining for this part of the squadron is as per enclosed. All are in good working condition, and as far as a general surgical exumin<>tlon (1st and 14th each month), no decided cases of scurvy have appeared— soft- ness, tenderness, and sponginess of gums, and in one or two oases cedeinatous swellings in those of a scrofulous habit, have b^en noticed and watched ; but otherwise I should he disposed to think that the crew arc in better condition than they were in August last. Mustard and cress, beer brewed on board, added to the other suppHes furnished by Government, occupation and amusement — all have aided in keeping up the spirit of enterprise and eagemesB t6 depart on the present search. si ^ ^ ■ -t - ; ; -;■ v ? In s^dmg forth these detad»nefll«s'I fisel that 'fifty are composed' of no ordi- nary men; From the period of commissioning to the present day, pUnishweni isalmoat, I-telieVe, unknown ; in fact, I do not believe that any cat was ever constructed ! Considering, also, the deficiency of any species of police, and th'- neculiar litiense nermitted on. this Ki»rviM». it Annears as if t.hfi ri-ftws rnntrr>l?i>rl themselved^ ofwcrei'restnwied more by moral mfluence than on other service. One copy oftloa goes to 77^ N.,loBgtaide 105° W., to meet Captain Kellat or hiypfficeri ^e oth^r toCApe Bpoku*, tp n^eet^py ou«iM)«t| by CouuuAuder. Pulkn (, buJt it is even possible that the ships may reach lDglis<|BAyt •hou|4,>tlM ^r.^ •■h>:r,i't Qvir vAov^meaks from thence >i;iUiniU«|!ially< depend on tbe«epo«t^ giveaiby tbe officer on the state of the ice in, WelUn) ton Channel. .If we Hucc(5(i;d in effecting all we contempltite in this region before the Ist of July, there will be nothing to detain us ber^ But ifiCfWtaia CoUinson's expe* dition sbquld have made any progress easterly, it can only bo in this noi:;tbem parallel that he would stand any chance of escape. Our position is safe, and might be maintained a» a depdt, if instructions reached in time: the men mignt be exchftnged, &c.' But once moved from henoe, I do not think any safe position oould 1^ foupd lUitil reaching Sir Robert loglis's Bay (Cape Bccher). li ! ,'. •'^ , As the sledgie^crews are ready to start,. temperature —4°, and rising, I must close, assuring their Lordshipii that I have every hope that the duty ordered will confer further credit on the officers to whom I have entrusted it. My own health, thank God, is good, and will, I trust, enable me to execute all that may be wished, either under the present or altered instructions. 5 ttif) -i^ :>, -4;;^:.;; t-h- Mi I :..T, •: I have, &c,», _ .-»■. 5a.->, Vi ?^'c »rt.., >i,)') luii,tir>in-^im) "iirj I; . EowAHD Belchbb, Captain In^ y.'fui J Commanding the Arctic Squadron. Sledges started 4 p.m., 10th April, n .., Postscript — 20th April 1853.— Mr. Loney, master, with Mr. AUard, master, " Pioneer," despatched to place adep6tto N.E., returned yesterday : all well, no casualty, and successful. Mr. Grove (mate,) first return from (Jonmiander Richards, arrived to-day: all well, as per letter of Commander Richards enclosed. A tracing of the newly- discovered and corrected land, with lines of search, accompanies this — I hope but a fouiidation for something of more importance before July next. All are well, and continue to execute their duties, which, whc;n complete, I hope to lay before their Lordships according to their merits. -•• ; '- .; I am, &c.,-'«^' • rfJ* ' ■ ,;'0«uv -Mu (^ v,H.*.'i -(fiv ..;;? vifcn.: irf uce" Edwaho Bklciikh. .f-TJK No 3. nr. 'u> 111 i\.Mfi%^ SfW !'•:);: ^'Dr. LvAixto Captam Sir £. Belchbb, C.B. ,.:.!>.•"■ , . H.M.S. "Assistance," Ncrtbuniberland Sound, Sir, Lat. N. 76° 52', long. W. 97°. 3d May 1863. In compliance with the orders left by you that I should report to you by letter my proceedings since leaving the ship on the 10th ultimo, with the division of sledges under the orders of Commander Richards, so that a copy might be forM'arded to Cape Becher along with the despatches for tne Amniralty, I have the honour to inform you of my returr to the ship this day at 11 A.M., having accompanied Captain Richards s party as far as lat. N. 76° 27', long. W. 108° 18'. On Sunday the l6th of April, at 4 p.m. I left the ship, in chai-ge of the sledge " Lady Franklin," in company with the sledges " Sir Edward," " John Baxrow," " Reliance," " Success," and " Enterprise," the whole under the orders of Com- mander G. H. Richards. The first night we encamped on the north end of Spit Island, about six> miles from the ship. On the ni^t of the 14th, we were about two or three miles from the dep6t on Cape Lady Franklin, on the south shore of Queen's Channel. On the 15th, we crossed the entrance of a channel running to the S.W.; and on the afternoon of the 16, the sledge "Enterprise" (Mr. Grove) deposited on the land a five days' depot for the other sledges : and on the morning of the 17tk, started on his return to the sbipj die others at the same time ptoceeding to the westward. Our cou. J at first to the northward, afterwards to the southward of west, steering f roc point to point of the land. At 4 P'.H. ut the 24tu, we reached a level plain running out from a high hill « which we had had in si^t for some days previously, and which has for the pre- , lent been called Cape J'ortune.. This, by Captain Richards's dead reckoning, ,«4*;."iCiir. iu^ii 5 .^isdDii .'o E'jiCi'jtj-.. L'-isra.. iilf'SS... uj-^ huis ,.>:nj,.a''«i .-^rgad,:^. > .^•U*&.v M ii^^ 6P M iituiitfd in latitude N. 76° 37', longitude W. 103° 18'. Hen- wf buried our six days' dep6t lor the other sled^'H, covering it up with earth iind iiniall ■hingle, there being no Htones in the neighbourhood. On the morning of the 'i.'ith, the Laoy Franklin 8turti(I on her return to the •hip, and reached the first d pAt on the evening of the 29th. On examination, it was found that, although stnxigly built of a double wall of stone, the top and part of one side had l)een pulled down, iind several things taken out of the cairn; but the only sign of any serious damage done whs an empty box. which was supposed to have contained a mixture ot stearine and oil for fuel. The articles taken out were replaced, and the cuiiii strengthened as much us possible. There were numerous tracks of bears round tho n!u? Finding that this dep6t had been imly tracks of animals visible were tlic iresh foot prints of foxes ni' 11' ^ o^t, and 'f deer in the vicinity, but no doubt this must have lx?eii tlie work of hears or wolverines. We replaced the casks, &c., and then started for Northumberland Sound, following the old sledpe trac'ks us closely as possible. Next afternoon, when within about four li.e miles of Spit Island, we found that the weight of miow on an old pack hue' ' oken it down in several places. There were large cracks and holes through rlie ice, and the surface was in many places covered witli water, in conse(;uc..ce of which we all got wet teet, and two of the men fell into water holes, im reaching Spit Island we encamped for the night, and on the morning of the Hrd started for the ship, where we arrived at 11 a m. On our way we found that there was open water between Spit Island and the low island, about half u mile to tlie northward of it, as well as between the south end of the former island am! the opposite point, so that, in all probability, the ice surrounding this island will break up very early in tlie season. Although we had the tempeniture for three succt-s.-iu- days, 20' below zero, whenwc started in the morning, and although on one of those days we tia veiled for some hours against a strong breeze, we were fortunate enoiigli fD escape with only superticial frost-bites of the face, lingers, and toes, ni'iie of which incapacitated tiio men from work. Besides these some slight case s of illness occurred, but not of su^'h consequence as to prevent the men from sticking to the drag ropes. The only person sent back as unable to do his duty was George Harris, A.IJ., of the " Pioneer," attached to the sledge Iteliaiico, who complained ol' cough, pains in the chest, and cramps in the region c i' ihe stomach. Thomas Marshall, coxswain of the launch, H. M. S. " As-istance," and "ne of the crew of the sledge Lady Fra. \lin, was sent tr. the lleliance in his iilace. At none of the points of land .1 vhich ^' touche( us there tiic slightest trace or indication of man, civilised or savage, ever liaving been there. The foot prints and dung of deer anii hiu*es were coiimion, and eleven or twelve of the former and one of the latter were sf;r" and some of them fired at hut none were killed. The deer were said to -e entirely white, v.iU the exception of onf buck, which had a Iniwn spot lietween the shoulders. At C'upe Fortune we saw the truck of a large animal, supposed to Ik; a musk ox. Durine '..ur progress to the westward, we did not see footprints of bears ; but on our retiiin found them nuim loiis and d everal ^j/es, uppmently fol- lowing the outward Iwund sledges. One night ; of iiem had been within twelve or fifteen yards of our tent, although the . % hii we had with us gave us no hint of their vicinity. We occasionally cm ised tii track of a fox, and found numerous marks of lemmings far out on the floe. One of the latter, caught . .at five miles from the ni nest land, was the only animal killed during thejourney. The ge()iogical formation of the country to the westward, from Cape Ladv Franklin, is chiefly of a coarst; grey sandstone, forming gently sloping hills wit^i intervening valleys and plains, in some places covered with soil. In places where the land was clear of snow, it was found covered with last year's plants, chiefly saxifrages, poppies, and grass and several species of lichens and mosses. ^ » nfimiiii,. Having now given you a general nummary of my proceedings whilst attached to the south-western division of itledgea, I nhall reserve the details of my journal for your return to the ship. I have, Stc, ' D. LvALL, M.D , Surgeon. :;.!/■' • • ,.A No. 4. ; .',. ,, .'.,... ^ _.. Lieutenant Ciieynp. to Captain Sir E. Brlchkr, C.B., for transmission to the Srchktahv of the Admiralty. Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," Winter Quarters, Nortminibcrland Sound, '■ "': Latitude 76° 62' N., Longitude 97° 0' W. • ili^ ' " Hth May 1853. I iiAVK the honour to report to you proceedings up to the day of my leaving this for Cape Bcchcr, with your despatches, letters, iVc, for Kngland. Dr. Lvall, in command of sledge " I^udy I'rnnklin," arrived on bonrd Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," at 11.30 a.m. on the .'Jd instant, having uccompanicd Com- mander Richards in the western divigion to a cape named (pro tern.) Cape Fortune, situated in Lat. 7(y^ '27' N., and longitude 103" IH' W. In accord ance with "our order, J have opened Captain Uichards's ofticial note addressed to you, and herein transmit a copy. " Cape Fortune, latitude -()" 27', hmgitude 1U3° 18' W. uourly." " Sir, " Sunday, 24th April, 1853, 5 p.m." " I HAVK the honour to report you the arrival of the Division under my command at this |)oint, which 1 uave named (pro tem.) Cape Fortune. Dr. Lyall will leave to-morrow morning for Northumberland Sound, with the ' Lady Franklin." Since parting witii the ' Knterprize ' sledge, we had been passing along thi' north shore of a group of islands, named by me the Deception Islands ; that coast has been satisfactorily examined, but no trace has been discovered of the missing expedition. The strait or sound between these islands and Cape Lady Frsmklin, I reserve for examination on my return. The coast, so far as we have come, is deeply indented with bays and inlets, but as all the floe we have he passing on is old. I hojte to be able to complete them all with the assista of Lieutenant Osborn during the present season, liy the ' Lady Franklin ' I send back George Harris, of * Pioneer,' belonging to the sledge ' Reliance,' who has been suft'ering from cold and cramps, and is totally unfit for ihe arduous service. I have retained Thomas Marshall of the ' Lady Franklin ' in hi" tead, otherwise, I am thankful to say, we have no casualties. From my second -ieutenant Osborn, I am receiving that ready support and valuable assist, which his experience and intelligence render him so well qualified to give inr, and I have every reason to be satisfied with the conduct of all comprising the Division." " 1 have, &c., " (iKOKOK Henry Richards, " Commander, Commanding South West Division." The opening in the ice that had made between Spit Island and the south extreme of this sound, has enlarged a little, and the ice in that diret tioit wearing away fast, so a^ to be unsafe in many places to walk over. It promises an early break np. Mr. Herbert's sledge the " Success," will he (hie on the l/th instant ; a boat will be in readiness to meet him at Spit Island, in case the ice shoi.dd become worse at the north west end of it. The duty of the ship is proceeding as speedily a ur very small force will allow. Everything is going on satisfactorily. I start iliis evening for Cape Becher again, with the letters, having got good independent and equal altitudes for rating the chronometers. I have, &c., John P. Cheyne, Lieutenant and Commanding Officer. Ill I 3 Captain S» EowAao BKi^Hia, C.B. to Coiiunander Pitllbn, or any officer tent i!o«>»ti:M U r^ communicati" with Oapc Bocher. Her M<\jenty'i> iihip " AsHiHtHOcei" April aist, IBftl). TiiR keg contuiii8 deipatches tor (Jommandcr I'ullen and the Admiralty. It ]• not to be opened by any ofticor but Commander PuUen, (or his Huperior) until it rcachci hin nanda. The (leitpatchea enrloiied to Cnmmauder Fullcn will \k opened by him, where he will fina further inntructions. ' •' All letters, public or private, are to be enclosed iu one official cover, and Hent on liet Majeoty'ti Service to the Secretary of the Admiralty, from whence they will be duly forwarded ; and no (icrson dnuctly or indirectly to communicate with England but through thJH channel, in order that Her Miyesty's Govern- ment may have the earliest information, and be prepared to furnish correct information. This may prevent much unneccHHary pain and inconvenience to the friends of those intercHted in our labours. Commander Pullen and all officers will see that these instructions arv rigidly carried out. It in probable that the " AHsisttuncc" will be at or near Cape liecher during the month of August ; therefore, any dispatches which may arrive, are to bt" forwarded to meet the ship by the eastern side of Wellington Channel, calling at Point Hogarth, which will be a principal rendezvous. At all events, as the distance on the present position, where the ship may be ice-boimd, is not more than four day's easy march, the officer should Ik- instructed (and provisioned) to move on and communicate with me. Indeed, this duty must be imperative, as the final determination of my movements must depend on the co-oiwration of the external divisions, should it be found necessary to abandon the vessels next season. The officer leaving this will deposit such a track chart, as will enable any one moving beyond Cape Becher, readily to find the ship. He will also leave on his cairn record, any additional inforn)ation which he may have to communicate. i. .ii The records Are to be copied, but on no account removed, as they are spe- cially intended for parties arriving from the westward, who may unfortunately miss our quarters. Given under my hand, on board Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," this 21st daypf April 1853. '." "' (Signed) Edward Bei/'hf.k, ' •«*t.i-*-»''^' ,,^ Captain Commanding Arctic Squadron. N.B If it should be ttecessAry to forward an officer on to nie, I ivish Mr. Alston (mate) to be entrusted with that duty. — E. Bklciier If the officer who calls for these despatches has the means of keeping them safe and dry, he can take them out of the keg. — E. B- . ■»i) .*ii' -ii '- I •.)iti .-.. ^,> ..,- v-,'.-'.. ■' i ij.C\ .t ' '>.■'■ 'If -. ,»;-.r. ft' i^ii-'^'-M ili^./ ,r\],{^- i-io.ii ■■.nti: f uii ■!:_siur- .1:.: tu., ^i>w.:f.-. By Sir Mward Belcher* l£t., CiB., Captam of Her Majesty's Ship Assistance, and Commanding the Arctic Squadron. Whereas sttddih x>pportiinity may offer to forward to the Admiralty the documents connected with this 8er\'ice, and moreover, enable me to detail, ifec- tuaily the operations of those under my command. i It ii my direction, that every uffrer in' iVmMfthd tl .11 ■/ j.^.., ..1. -n.-J li/jii jrv'i'i- I i '.•■•(•vyr-i • ,!■ jj'i Captain Sir E. Belcheh, C.B., to the Secretasv op the Admiralty, London ,i, v,ii(i * ii' fT- I Her Majesty's Ship "Assistance," "i Sir, «l ■.•-'.'. nf'-i i..., I. Northumlierland Sound, 2Sth April, 1853. ' The return of Lieut. Cheyne without dispatches, and the annexed notes of Commander Pullcn, leave me so utterly in the dark, as to prevent my merely •tating more than that I have learned of the arrival of Commuuder Inalcfield, f/ and that despatches had been deposited for me at Cape Bccher, as well as at *• Point Phillips. From a newspaper I gather the intelligence that Commander Inglefield has taken charge of the " Isabel," vice fieatson ; and coupling her motions with those of the " Prince Albert," my instructions relative to her, and the total silence of Commander Pullen as to the contents of the said dispatches, &c., — I cannot imagine that anything can possibly be contained therein at all affecting the important duty entrusted to me. I have already lost ten valuable days of this very short season, and intend, without further delay, starting on the 1st May, as in my former communication. As the note of Commander Pullen will not entitle me to expect any officer of his at Cape Becher before the iiOth May, I shall take care before that period, to have the latest information deposited there, and if possible, so arrange, that both officers shall meet and converse, as well as find the missing documents. After a very careful consideration of all that Lieut. Cheyne has to communicate, I am not inclined to blame an}' one until the error is discovered ; but on such a service, and regarding a dispatch which might affect the safety of ships and lives, I feel that 1 should do wrong if I did not impres.s on the minds of the defaulters, when discovered, that, wheh they volunteer lor service which entitles Ihem to honour, chance of promotion, and high pay, the country demands a very strict adherence to the essential duties. I shall leave full instructions with the officer left in command to report fully the latest information' received from Commander Richards (tlirough Com mander Pullen), with any other matter of importance. At this moment all the stearine, and great part of the spirits of wine, have bees expended for the duties ordered. 1 ^A 72 'ii The available fuel now on board is : — Alcohol, 38 gallons. - Hog's lard, 112 lbs. \ Seal oil, 38 gallons. ) Pemmican, none. Chocolate paste, none. Sweet chocolate, 15 lbs. Essence of coffee, 48 half-pints. Therefore, in the event of these vessels being ice-locked at the period they may attempt a release (even this year), and a further detention before I should feel myself warranted in abandoning them ( which in my opinion will never be necessary), the necessary fuel for a march of at least .'}() days for twelve sledges, should he forwarded from the " North Star". As Commander PuUen will copy this, he will of course understand this necessity, and if possible provide for it. He will probably learn further of Captain Kellett's position, and whether he may be similarly' circumstanced, — whicli I think, if he attempted to reach Melville Island, will be more probable than in this chaimcl. Under all these circumstances, of course their Lordships will be better able to judge, from the final report of Commander PuUen, whether from information received or not from Captain Collinson's division, it ma}- be pmdent for us to place in depot as far west as this such necessary supplies of the matei'ials abso- lutely necessary to support their travelling parties, and enable them to advance, should wc shift easterly. -^Vs to their \essels making any way easterly to the southward of 78° N., I see no possibility. Tlie travelling parties would probably find our southern cairns, and move on for this or Cape Becher. Independent of sustaining the men by food, it is of infinitely greater importance to look after their feet. The natural spirit of llie man will carry him forward if he has a foot for travel ; but the want of travelling boots, the chafe of the feet, and frost bites, may cow the strongest and most active, when !• ... valms would be a dainty to him, and that even without cookin- ni so far u. sustenance of the body and freedom from scurvy is cp .cerned. If their Lordships slunild have occasion to order any supply of .,ucli articles, I would venture to suggest that they should be got up by " Mr. Kilby/' shoemaker at Woolwich, witii whose boots all the ofticers of this, as well as those of the last expedition, have been supplied, and found to succeed. Those from Government are very inferior to his. It is necessary that they should be made of canvas, or of some very strong and pliable material, with leather soles, and thin inner cork soles. If they could, above the welt line, be protected by gutta percha well eoAcred with tine emery dust, 1 think they might last longer ; but in severe cold, gutta percha is bad. ' It is (,nly for spring or autumn travelling that such boots would be available. They should be made so free, that one of Kilby 's boots ( as made for us ) covered with one blanket wrapper (which Captain Austin can explain) should go freel} into, with space to spare at the toe part. The compression to take cHect across the foot at four inches from the toe. Instead of his simple strap a strengthening piece at heel, to prevent its falling there, and crinpliug or chafing the heel, as m the annexed sketch. Hnlfs 10 l»oe. To til'— iioi buckle. »«iv lull, toguoutnidf irowtm. 6 loowheri'. tmumiifwti'i'.iK. Nut hiijli-i'iiltrl ; it crippln thtaiiklr. k 1 "-t Tf l.l'J^^tfS'^" " 73 The supply of " Blankets lor wrappers," by some oversight, not supplied. The squadron are very short of them. I deem it my duty to suggest to their Lordships that, in the computation entered into for tht execution of this service, it was hardly contemplated thnt any great number of men would have to be provided for "as travellers on tn floe,' and that the scheme of my predecessors was assumed as that competent for the duty. But, in the absence of othei iulbnnation, we have to provide tor the wants of others (Captain Colli ':son's division) more in need than we shall be ; and if, as a matter of precedence, they must of course l)e first forwarded, we can remain by our ships until relieved. But it is my duty to state thai: the supplies arc now barely adequate for the relief of our own crews ; and that if, at the expiration of this season, any of Captain Collinson's or Captain Kellett's division should require our aid, we shall not be able (unless we clear the ice) to i^ake any satisfactory arrangements (I mean ibr sledging duties). On the 1st August 1854, by my instructions, I am to be prepared (the acts of Nature not interposing) to resume tlic command of my dispersed squadron at Beechey Island, " if twelve months' provisions remain." But when H.M.S. " Resolute" and " Intrepid" were detached so far west as Melville Island, it occurred to me, as it does now, that those vessels are more likely to be ice-locked, and at all events LLcii crews more distressed than tliose with me. Between the years 1848 and 18r)l that channel was not navignble. The season of 1852 was fine, possibly beyond precedent ; and yet I have mv fears, since I have heard of the accident ( no official report) to the " North Star ;" indeed, I contemplated such an event on the 1st October last, when I was detained at Hungry Island for nine days, cut off from all escape until the ice re-formed or the water opened. I lierewith enclose the scheme of travelling parties at present moving, and trust that the spaces covered by them will set at rest finally and conclusively this most exciting mission. If Sir John Franklin passed through tiiis channel to the southward of Barrow and Parker Islands, and met the floe moving westerly, he never coukl reach, as far as we can discover, any place of refuge, and in all probability drifted into the Polar Basin, and may be anywhere within 78" and J)0° N., if not .'breed out by the north of (ireenland or Spitzbergen. But with his energy, with the open sea before him, I can only judge from ni v own condition under very similar circumstances, he could not and would not stop to erect any cairns between Cape Bccher and CIrescent Island, or Baillie or Hamilton Island and Cape Lady Franklin. If he could not, as we did, haul in and secure shelter, no other chance remained but to drive where the floe carried him ; and the mind of any man contemplating its force here, leaves nothing but destruc- tion as the almost inevitable result. I have, lie. Sick— none: "All well." Edwafid Bklcher, Captain Connnanding Arctic Squadron. No. 7. Conimander Pullen to Captain Sir E. Belched, C.B. Dear Sir, Cape Bccher, 10th April 1 8.53. I bEG to inform you of my arrival here this morning. Finding that from the imfbrtunate position in which my ship has been placed, rendered it so difficult to carry out your order to the \erv letter, was my reason for leaving so early, so that 1o ensure no detention to vonr piirtics on their arrival here ; and, as I K m liill •x\ ^: 74 leave dispatches* at the extreme place of rendezvous, they will have only to deposit theirs without >vaiting for my party, as it is possible tney may not reach by the day named (1 1th May), as I shall only be able to send one, and to this place. Should I get back in time, I will send you a detailed account of this journey ; now only saying that it has been a very heavy one, and not without damage to our gear ; for off Point De Haven l)oth sledges — (sic). I left the ship on the 2l8t ult., and have been particularly favoured with weather, but from what I have seen of late, think the ice about here will soon break up. Yesterday, between this and Dundas Island, there were many holes of open water, and a walrus lying at one ; the ice not more than six inches thick. I was obliged to leave the sledge three miles from this, carrying by hand the dispatches the rest of the way ; so heavy was the ice, ind having only five days' provisions left, feared the time was too short, as we ha>. 10 back. 20 clij«. itObuk. Probable d.ie, acili tl'j K. Uklciiek. Cape Becher, Sunday, 10th April 1853. Commander Pullen arrived here this morning, with a travelling party from the " North Star," and deposited dispatches for Sir Edward Bclcner under- neath ; together with letters and newspapers from England, brought out by Commander Inglefield. Duplicate copies of the dispatches will be I'ound at Point Phillips. As the " North Star'" was driven on shore last September, and not able to get of!' again, one party oi;l ' will leave her, and not before this one gets back will not likely be here b; .^iie 10th of May, They will come the Bnriii^' Bay route, as it is very likely the ice to the westward of the Islands will Ik; open before that time. Captain Pullen left the ship on the 21st March. Mr. Penny's boat is on the south side of Point Phillips, in lat. 7;'" ;»0' N., with a very small quantity of provisions in her, about rA) lbs. of bread. The travelling has been very heavy, particularly on the western side of the Islands. To the Officer commanding the Sledge from H.M.S " Assistance" or " Pioneer," &e. I ■ I It * Dinpatihcs. ■^^ lie lias copied tlinnc for mi-, :nake« no nil jsion lo llicir contents, and, mnreoyer, nljserve^ ilinl my [jortv will only have tu dcpo'it theim, ! suppose ncMSiing therein eoniuimd allects my nmiidns in this iiiiaiirr K.B, ^^m^i^ssSmsa 7« NORTH-E iSTERN SEARCHING DIVISION. ' (The Captain.) The present ordei's for the Nort]i-eust Division — now modified by the necessary loss of time to send again to Cape Becher (loss 7 d&ys) : — 1 is The Londeshorough - 9 men and officers, iO days, 360 rations - 5 2 „ The Dnuutless - - 8 „ „ 40 „ 320 „ - 5 •/ 3 „ The Enterprise - 11 „ „ 50 „ 550 „ - 6 (advances dep6t, 1 day.) Tlie Enterprise feeds - 28 to the present dep6t 5 days, possibly 5 - 10 - 6 completes and advances 28 x 10 days = 280) retnrn - lOOj • • r. Deposits 380 - 550 - 170 = 10 days' retiu-n. Return.'! to depot and home - - - - 1 and 2 ]0 Tlie Dauntless victuals No. 1, 10 days - 17 x 10 = 170 rations. 8 men back, 10 - 80 „ 10 No. 1 deposits 250 320 70 20 10 Return rations, 1 days = 90 The Londesl)ovougli will then have I(!e-boat deposited. .38 days'— advance retiim 19 19 46 Clear odvanoe (it the lowest average 8' per diem = - 360 and i-eturn - 720 On the return of the Enterprise - 11 men. - Aided by the Lady Franklin - - 11 „ ' ' And Perseverance - - - - 11 „ ' And victualled for 30 days each. Tiie wliale-bortt will be advanced, and tlie .suiplus provision of two of thesf available for further Iwat service. Sliould the i<;e, anfl our then state, permit of our making further examination ■ f North Cornwall, Dr. Lyall, with the " Lady Franklin," will be at the depot. Men an be exchanged ; returned to ship ; and furtlier supplies, if requisite, forwarded. E. Belchek, Capfaiu. I i- 1 a m rh K 2 im 76 PS (M o 7; •JX a: 13 o "i 6«2 S '"5 S o III f ^ *» <£> 6 ^ 4J /■ * .= 1 - = 1 e s 1 '"'' 1*5 "1 »! J -« v ^ M » .§8 IS ll-l 4: 2 " i" §2-S -i 5 |xl i _.2J^._aS_ 1 i x»* !S iiili 1 . M^ I « m t il 3 M : . i~ ' i"'. S 1 X -r -r <-■ 1 *! n 1 1 1: 1 ^ - T* W 1 j.3 § : 5 S 1 1- 1 ^1 II I Xi i i' V «•§£ "a* ■5. "H. .^_ 1 ^2? 5 3 1 " t * _ if^-^ 1 1- " «3 at .4 [ SHE rt \ 1 1 c 1 e 4^ 1 i 'Z 1 1 -M — y. •-) ;j y 6 u -6 ^_1=_. k i ^i-'^Ml IF III 1 f •2 6 i full OS gK Ut 'Sd ■" s ^ c - iC ? >■: |. f ^ s 1 %& J g Tl ;1 1 ,i' (; 1 X X X ~ f* « "-; ^ .1 If . ■; i' ■i 5: 1 ■i . •c' f T C rr (.* •— i: '*' R ^ >s 7 i 5 i2 - •^ 1 t ra j, '-: 1 i-a .3 3-' J= ^ '1. 1 J! J I. ^ 1.* H 5 a^ H ■% 1 "" " i % i" __ _^'_____ L..:V J_" _- f^. 77 © 'M 1 h f, h i >; >• 1*4 s e p Sr, § ■3 »4 »— d! s cj * e '(I "i~ ''<|)u.ipiui|> o) undo niK sjapjo 8;{t •uo ap|Mp oj jq8no sq )iii(* OJ SB aSpnf |>Mi aqi aq uaqi hiai aq 'jaj)0 sagmuvApn jaqjo A'un pun aosnaa aqj J! »nq ! miq qji* lUoqsQ ■>"»!'! "Ja"'! Pinoqs aq jniji qnit ^ni n >i °a)a|dua3 sfep or ^aumf 'naaanosaj u«o sjq uo juapusdap si apjeqajif aapunuiHio^ aau.iq may : jndap siqi luojj sujniaj jnuana uqop * ». •■> ?! « o $! «0 ' e <■ "3 JJg 0»' • snoiioj 09 ''^ iia-j Sirp i; saauBApv J •napiq AijAnaq '.wiinApn .s.ftip JO aaqnmu aq) jqj 'lodap qana .fq 40j papiAOjd 81 aiojji!(x uqof aqj, ■n -ofi uiojj ■r - ° I '^(lOionh auiBS at|) itni^iKi 'f puB (; )» saiMcd :8uoi oa) aqi aia|dnioa ' OJ t|iji)0ua if^iQodap pne *?.?; T^awq saipi 'iBo<|-aai soA«a[ aaaBjp}! aqj. ■2 « 1:1 u 3 5 I- C O O C ■s\ftp «| 4.1II }\\\.\\ >(am| s.i|.i.ii!o ss'dwns **'!X 00 00 CO 0000 9 00 •9.<«p n .laq qii.tt >tai(q s.*u.ino ni|>tnQj^4 -^pc*! sVflp C' •(dt[ qijA ?{deq sdtiJiO ss^itunvQ & o o c e o . i i ' 1 4i ■3 3 c/1 H •-&{» Is §1 1 I ^ z * ■s s § a H K 3 |i 11 ;*; 4\\ ill l'-.4i 78 • '■ ■■"• No. 9. ■ ; ~"' ■ '; Captain Sir E. Belcher, C.B., to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London. Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," on return to Beechey Island, westward of Baillic Harbour, and about ten miles east of Cape Becher. 26th July 1853. Subject— Movements of the Squadron seurching for Sir J. Franklin and others. Sir, Tino \ ery laiexpectcd arrival of Conununder Pulleii in his boat ort' Duudas Island, just as I had recovered my despatches (deposited for him at Cape Becher in Mav last), places me in tlic position of addressing to their Lordships a very hurried dispatco. First, because a mile gained in this dreaded strait is a consideration risking w intering here. Next, Commander PuUen has to return by the west of Dundas and Hamilton Islands, and I cannot strain his crew by carrying them much out of their way. After my despatch of April last, I proceeded to the N.E. as far as the con- nex'.on with Jones's Strait, m f)0° W., where I found the sea open, and all progress obstructed on 20th May. Polar Sea, as far as the eye could range, from 1,500 feet elevation, *' rough sailing ice." This el' ation is in latitude 76° 31', and about 90° W. ; but the whole survey, I trust, will bt (on a half inch scale to one mile) ready for transmission bei'ore the 1st September, at which date I purpose sending one of the vessels home. Being cut off by sea, I now pursued an opening Ironi C'ape Separation (nearly nc'itii twviily miles of Prince Alfred Bny), and reached Wellington Channel. I xt, having noticed loom of land froi n the high land of Britannia Cliff, started fro. i'linccss Royal Island, and reached the westernmost in 7^" 10' N., calling the c;oup Victoria Archipelago; and iae easternmost, forming the channel to Jones's Sii ' " North Kent,' in honour of his Royal Highness the late Duke. Reports 01 ' open water." The reception of the missing dispatches and i ither causes rendered my retuni to the ship, to look out ior the interests of those still absent, imperative. I reached the ship without casualty on the 22d June, after an absence ol' Hlly-two days, bringmg my men back in good working condition, and not sub- jects for the list. Connnander Richards performed his work nobly ; so did Lieutenant Osborn, his companion. In the first place, by a curious preconception, he deposited his despatches for Captain KcUett on 30th April at a point in 76° 32' N., 1 05" 4' M'. ; my point agreed on being 77° and 105°. After having advanced 120 miles, he met Lieutenant Hamilton seeking these despatches. He forthwith put him en route to obtain the dispatclies, to overtake Lieuteiiant Osborn, and by these means place me in possession (by the return of the " Reliance" sledge) of the important and, to their Lordships, doubtless pleasing intelligence of the safety of the " Inves- tigator" and crew at Batiks's Land (as per document directed to be forwarded by Commander Pullen), having nearly accomplished the i^ " Passage ! Commander ilichards, finding that Commander M'Clintock had poached upon his ground, instantly came to the deteimination of visiting the " Resolute," and obtaining all the requisite particulars relative to the " Investigator." By this course he laid down the shores of the eastern side of Hecla nnd Griper Ciulf, and on his return came up Byani Martin CMiannel, proving its connexion with our Polar Basin. Operations for cutting out were complete, when, having despatched a cutter by calculation to render assistance, she fortunately met Cominiindcr Richards at tile critical moment, and, after an absence of ninety-four days, I had the pleasure of taking him by the hand at the niouth of our canal on the 12th July. That night, both vessels being afloat and ready, everything \vas embarked ; and on the 14th July, eleven months from leaving Beechey Island, the vessels, again free from accident of any kind, were in motion on their proper ele- ment. Forty-eight hours brought us half-wav to Cape Becher ; two more days to the land-floe to Ciipe Acland, near Sir H. Inglis Bay ; and to-day, ten miles beyond Cape Becher, with still ten miles of open water in advance. IT Lieut. Osborn rejoined on the 1.5th, after an abHence of nincj -seven days, having worked for the position said to be attained by Messrs. Goodsir and Marshall on the south shore, but without meeting any of their cairns or marks, even until John Parrow Hill bore north (true). I have directed the " North Star" to take home, at the earliest safe moment, the oflScers and crew of the " Investigator" should they arrive, which I trust Captain Kellett will direct; as I do not conceive, looking to their Lordships' intentions, that any further expense should be incurred by the detention of that vessel and crew merely for the purpose of awaiting the movement of the ice for twenty seasons. I earnestly hope, however, that she may fortunately be released this season, and I have that full confidence in Captain Kellett that Buch a desirable termination will not be lost sight of, in connexion with the, return of his own vessel this season. The circumstance of the progress of Commander M'Clure, and the pro- bability of Captain Collinson following up his track, must certainly affect my instructions, and I confidently Itwk for dispatches to guide me in the altered state of affairs on my return to Beechey Island. I have said sufficient of my leading officers to make their Lordships aware of their ability and zeal. At the end of this service I hope to be able to report of the general conduct and abilities of all the others. Fully trusting that their Lordr.hips will feel satisfied not only that all has been done, but that we are ready and willing to do more, I have, &c., ■ i Edward Belcheu, Captain Commanding Arctic Squadron, No. 10. Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," July 26th 1853, Sir, Off Cape Becher. I HAVE to acknowledge the receipt of your several despatches, from April to the present, terminating with the recovery of the " North Star," and your general movements ; and at this hurried moment, and unable to refer to dates, which will hereafter be duly acknowledged, to inform you that your move- ments and correspondence have elicited my complete approbation. I have &c. Edward Belchkh, Captain Commanding Arctic Squadron. To Commander Pullen (present), Her Majesty's Ship " North Star." No. 11. Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," off Cape Becher, Sir, 2fithof July 1853. HAviN(i rendered to nie copiec of communications between Captain Kellett, Commander M'Clure, and myself, forwarded by him; You will transmit the orii)in.ils to England, either by the first conveyance which may offer, before the 1st of September ne.\t, or take them with you should you proceed in pursuance of my orders. You will also forward full copies of all correspondence between us, likely to advance the great cause in which we are engaged ; and, in a letter (addressed to me), your final operations up to the latest moment. Hoping to be released from this channel before the date iilluded to, I can only add, if unsucce*" p.m. 1 iiAVF, the lionour to report to _\ou the arri\al of the division under my command at this Point. Strong north-west winds, low temi ..'ratures, heavy ice, and an accident, wliieli imfortnnately oecurv"' to the " Heliancc," (with the i: light bout) in jMissinj^ " the Queen'8 CiiusewHy," have continued to prevent my fliicing the first (lep6t within six miles of the position I could have desired ; hut imve no tear of niuliinff up tor this in future marches Hitherto we have met with no traces of Sir J. Franklin's ships or parties. This position, which I have named " Cape Ueccption", for the convenienceof future reference, is about thirteen miles (true) from the " Cape Ludy I'Vanklin," but whether it is the west point of nn extensive bay, about two miles deep, which lies immeduitely to the weatwMrd oi i. v c.iiic, on the north extuiiieof an island in the centre of that bay, the thicK weather wj have experienced prevents my saying positively; I am inclined to think the latter. The general trend o'' me land is, I believe, rather to the northward than to the southward of west. Mr. Grove in the " Enterprizc" (" Dauntless") will leave this to-morrow for Northumberland Soimd, and I am happy to say, that although the weather has been severe, we have had no casualties ; and that the conduct of all under my comiiiand has been entirely satisfactory. I am, Sec. George Hkniy Richards, Commander Her Majesty's Ship "Assistance," Commanding South- West Division. No. 16. An Account of the Dep6ts of Provisions established by Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," per order of Captain Sir Edward Belcher, C.B., Com- manding the Arctic Searching Squadron. Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," 1853. Cape Majendie, near Cape Becher. Provisions. Biscuits - Concentrated Ruui Pemican Dog Pemicaii Boiled Bacon Tea Sugar Lemon Juice Salt Pepper Preserved Potato Tobacco - Half Hogsheads Barricoe, 6 Gallons Ditto, 4 Gallons Iron Hoops Metal Cases - Tin Cases Casks, &c. .316lbs. lOgalls. 2201 bs. 210 „ 168 „ 21 ,. 7 . 4 „ 2 „ 56 „ Hi,, 4 I 1 32 2 13 No. Being 420 Rations. 11 Biscuit Preserved Mca Boiled Bacon Cape Lady Franklin. Latitude 76° 40' N. ; Longitude 99° W. 408lbs. 428 .. ■84 „ Prencrvcd I'otuto - - 2» „ Maccuroni - 10 „ Chocolate I'uste - . fll ,, Tea - - - - 8 I ,1 26} „ Sugar ■ Concentrated Rum ■ 12galls. 27gilla I'epper . lib. 3ioz. Muttard . 21b. 7o7 Salt . 4lb8. 14oz. Onion I'owder m 4ll)s. Lemon Juice 2galls. 41bH. 9oz. Tobacco Casks, Half UogsheadN 7 No. Barrels > ,. Iron Hoops 48 „ Tin Cases 4 „ Being 544 Ru 'ons. Mount Beautbrt. Latitude 76° 52' N, ; Longituui Vj Biscuit . aoiy, ,. Preserved Meat - aooibs. Boiled Bacon . 168 „ Tea . I2i„ Sugar - Preserved Potato - . 25 „ Pepper - 14ioz. Onion Powder • 2|lbs. Mustard . lib. 1240Z. Salt . 3lbs. 9o"z. Tobacco . lOlbs. 12oz. Concentrated Rum - . Sgalls. 12gillB. Half Hogsheads - 5 No. Small Casks - . 1 » Iron Hoops - 34 „ Tin Cases - . 3 9) il Being 400 Rations. Loney's Cairn, Southern Entrance to Northumberland Sound. Biscuit Preserved Meat Chocolate raste Tea Sugar Pepper Mustard Concentrated Rum Metal Case 561bs. 40 „ H„ 14oz. 5ilbs. 2oz. 4oz. Igall. 6gill8. 1 No. Being 56 Rations. Left for the Crew of the Sledge " John Barrow " ; but now available for general service. I. Lewis, Clerk in Charge. fi L « » u f i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /> ^ . / /^ 7 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STPflET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 L

Owm. Munden - Samuel Ileayns- WiUiam Kvsns - Thomas Mell'sh Joseph Anderson Surgeon Capt. of sledge - Gunnel's mate - ( 'ox. of launch - Cipt. of forecastle (;apt. of forctop - Bd. R. M. A. - Coop^'r A. B. - . I !\. B. - - , !' M - . ; Ship. Assistance. " ENTKRrRIZE," " Success to the brave," Name. Rank or Rating. Mr. Allanl •lames Kobinson Thomas Barber - G. (^uiddin0on- Henry Tranter - Richard Bex Alex. Baillie - John Clark • ( ieorge Cust.tnce .lohn (irem William Wood - Master - • Capt. of sledge - Sail maker Carpenter's mate A. B. R. M. - . CariK'nter's cri'W Steward - St(»ker - • R. JI. Ship's cook Ship. I'ioneer. Assistance. I'ioneer. EA.STKRN ROUTK.-H. M. SLEDGES *' Lt'vitK.*iinitor(iii," Captain's Sledge. " D.VI NTI.KSS." 'Adversa virtuterepello." — " Bright eyes for brave hearts." No, 1 " Dangers do not daunt me." No, Nunif. 1 Hank or Itatiii;;. Ship. Name. Rank or Rating. Ship. 1 Mr. I^mt'v Master - Assistance, ,Mr. Grove - .M;itt Assistance, •J (k'orjrf Stiiros - ('apt. ofsk'dg ' - „ ■z ■losiph Beams - Ciipt. of sledge - a U. Unllmnk Q. M. - .. .'1 Thomas Bond - l^. M, 4 titriirKc WcM.l - Capt. ot hold 4 Isaac Harnett - Capt, of maintop r> •loHcph tiruliiim* .^. B. „ .1 Chris, lioiul - 1 Carpenter's crew i> ''hark's fcjniith - A. B. (i .las. Macarlney - , A. B. 7 Cnrnrlius t ii-ldcr A. B. .■ 7 W. .^;ar^hall - 1 .\. I! . 6 W. \\nfinQ\i - 1 A. IJ. ■ " li. I'ripiliart - i 1,'. M. " " l'l.ltf*Kvnt.vNrl;." " I'ersjvere and Prosper." Jlr, I'yni, II, .M. S. " Assistance, •'EvTriiruTzi;," "Siu Fiiwcis Bauinu," " Success to the brave." " Bear and forlwar." Jlr, Aliard, II. M. .S. " I'ion.er." | .Mr. Uichardi, II, M, S. " I'ioneer. m of td ■w )n ly !W :d of aixiy itct oi uui iiusu Ket-i, we procccdca towards unttitlis Island, having pre- viously deposited a depot for ninety-one men for seven days, on the east point oi' tho hurhour. 1' ound fast ice l^ctween Gritttths and Comwallis Islands ; passed L 3 * I I lOo 1° Kclrno /.luuf ami by Str K Krlfhsr in 7S'J0 A' All>ril I" a5 X O It T II i,lM»,; C O HK WAI.I. 77'^ ^iifit ii'i'tii 7« IWff<'"" I''^ i (.„... vv>.-^^ /•■,„,„.„/;,/,c^/-'i>'^i'riii>i''i 9 ('iVK..',ll I ^r l',l|l<' I'.UlllS f * >;.Kr .\...(i„„ . ^r'^^JIuii.-rx Kir l.irnmlQ '■*\'r* ' ■■'•"<» \, T M I'. o I i; i; x s <■ II A .\ -v I-; I, /'/.». ('I rv*,/ /'I I itf'lmti i*i'r<*iy ,' li.iiiiuil ( R N W A I, '. I S I S r A \ 1) M./r. I ll.wlrli Hrrhtl.i lliiihi (• K.Tlu'^^r /'•'•'''■'I .\'f 7/(1/1/. I / (;7,',„«S ,k: .u.'" ^- '■'"'"■■' '^^1m..'^'''* ■^^'hlltfxl '"■'■ /v .Wcm/i V l^'/ ',<•/!, /v 100 ^-7' ^>^' V ^^ I .U.i/i/.iIuVj ll I" . »5 A' o It r H ""•^^:ir ■ft .(HtU^-yf:>i r„^f yj',. Hi.-li.inli I '" C';i|ii' llUiiis # rihinnui p, ,-, . I..„,w,.„.. /'■ 90 JPMiJr Of' TflE mSi^VERIES OF <>:y. IJ Commntuhnff tin Stfuadfvn. in t^. Arctic Sewi, in Search of ! ^ -xym^/^z/y yy. ' -xy f.orwy I 1852T;ii 77° l»PIM.I,l.s'l OyV.Ul/V'"''/ / \ Ki.illl- r' ll.'iiinltoii I (■r,ili,i/]i^' III' iriKiiiU 1,111, ''■',-,. '>"'/i4H4it^ /.I.V lw,;i t'l N O R r U 1) E V () iV I S L A \ 1) M'f ',:,,. I.-,. fi; Hlf)f" [,ii 76" f.'dm/'i \ vv i; I, I, I .\ <; r () .\ ' MAX \ K I. JrOsi,.,.;, 'htuilt!yh',Ji liiU-i ' .1' ,tfitf yisUffl 'I tiiii'ti It ir'-lnii,i H, I'ltuf ■iiitl livl I'liiii.s ' V^ ^^-->( 7,V.v.-. Wii«nur. I'ound last ice between (iriffith-* and Coniwallis Islands; passed L 8 ) I i I'll m lo the southwardotCirilliths, 1111(1 dciK)sitcd n ircoid on the S.W.eiid. By mid- night on the 17tli we iTaihed I.owtlur Islniid ; hire we were stoj)|)ed until the niorningofthe'iSth. I \viiMi|i|)iehensive;it one time that we iiaii reaehed our winter quarters; open water eould lie seen from ('ornwalli> Island, hut no possihility of pettinjf into it. Leuvint; l^owther on the morning of the 28tii, we were fortu- nate enough to get into this open water at ai)out .') p.m., jjassing sevin miles west of Griffiths Island, and next day at 2i>.vi. landed a depot of fourteen days for ninety-one men near Cape Cockhnrn. We found a lead of about five miles broad, running direetly west from ('ape Coekburn, wliieh we followed, and reaehed the south point of Myain Martin Inland at 4 a.m. on ."Ust August. The fast ice extended from Ciraham Moore Hay t > the eentre of Hyani .Murtia Island, the pack close on its south point. On the 1st September, with a fie-li north wind, the puck eased of!" the point, leaving a narrow passage ; we got |)ast, and into a tine open lead five or six miles broad, after a sharp beat along the west side of the inland ; at HAO p.m. sighted Melville Island, and at 4 a.m. on the 'id, landed a depAt at I'oint Grif- fiths. No ice in sight along the land to the northward in Hyani Martin Channel. We were agaui stopped about five miles west of Skeiii' Hay, of Hevcrly Inlet, until noon on the 6th (while at this position se\iral musk oxen were shot, and some hares), when we were enabled to slip through an opening info the water in Hridport Inlet, which we were tantalized by seeing all the tinii' but unable to reach. At 5 a.m. on the 7th, we madefast to the " fast ice." running off Winter Harbour; there I left a dep6t for my travelling parties, and one for any people that might reach it, to bring them on to me. as 1 found I conld not winter there. On the niorning of the 8th I left it, and proceeded easterly, intending to go into Skene Hay, which I considered a good placi to winter. On the morning of the 9th I tried to get in, but the inlet was comiiletely blocked with ice. No time was to be lost, — the young ice forming fast, which, unassisted by steam, I could not have got through. The same morning I again proceeded westerly into Hridport Inlet, and made 'list to the old ice between Dealy Island (easterly), and tlu' main, ('oinmeiiced nnmediately to cut in; our position is 900 yards true east of Dealy Island, in thirteen fathoms of water. On the loth we were frozen in; commenced landing a dejiot in Dealy Island, and pre- paring for our winter. On the 22d th" travelling j)arties started to hi} out depots lor their spring journeys. Lieutenant Mecham, with Mr. Nares. as auxiliary, to cross the land at Winter Harbour, for the search of the S.W . of Melville Island. Lieutenants Pini and Hamilton, with Mr. I)e Hray as auxiliary, to place depot at Cape Providence for the search of Hanks's Land, east and west. Commander M'Clintock proceeded on ilie I Itli across the land for Iledaand Gri|KT Hay, to ulace a depot for the search of N.W. Melville Island coast. A depot hadalreaiiy been placed at I'oint (iriftiths for the reiide/voiis mute, which it was my intention to take charge of myself. All these officers succeeded in placing iluir (iejiots, and returned without casualty. The overland parties had desperate work, which could not have been performed without the carts ; they might be improved. ( 'ommandcr M'( lintock nad thirty-eight days' travelling. Lieutenant Mecham t\\intv-ti\e days, the others fifteen days. On the 14th October Lieutenant .Me-'liaiii. on his ntuni through Winter Harbour, visited the Harry Sandstone, and found on it a record from Commander M'Clure, deposited in April 18.52, only five month- before our visit. To send a party at that late period on the chances of meeting liim was impossible, the ice in the strait was so broken up; traversing it even with our liglit iioat not practicable. I send the record found, with his chart. On the 20th of Octol)er we lost suddenly, from disease of the heart, Thomas Mobley, R.M., a inost excellent man; and on the I2th December, Cieorge Drover, captain of tiie fi)recahtle in the " Intrepid," of consumption ; with this exception, we have Ix-en very healthy ; not the slightest appearance of scurvy ; indeed for weeks without a man on the list. 87 (i(K)(l provision** mid ii sulfitii'iicv, witli I'oiistimt work on \\\v Hot' or open uir, will Jilways ensure irood liciiltli in this cliinntc. Our sc'liool, tlu'iilrifuis, \c. wrrc ii(lniiriil)ly ('oiiducted hy the orticrrs. Our winter li;is liccn \(m\ scvci', conipMriuf;- it with t'orincr voyiigts, witli a gri-at iuuount of wind ; hut the huicr I'ppoius to he I'uus'.'d by our locality. Suppijsinij; tiiat ('(iiuMiini'U'r MH'luri' would di'scrt his ship at the furiii'st tnonu'ut this year, I di'spatchcd ;i party on tiic Kttii of March tor tlic Harhour of Mercy, temperature 50 , certainly without the slightest hopes of catching him. The party consisted of ■.even men to oiu' sledge; two men and six dogs under Dr. homville to hiing hacU rapidly to me any news ; all under the orders of Lieutenant I'im. Mr. I'iin's sledge unfortunately hroke down about fifteen miles from Cape Dundas. Mr. I'im gallantly went torward with the dogs, und reached the Harbour of .Mercy on the (Jth ot April ; had it not been for this accident he would have been there by the 1st. and found tlii're Connnander .M'Clure in the " Fn\e8tigator," preparing to despatch a |)art of his crew,— some for Cape Spencor, and a party by .M'Keii/ie river. All my parties lett the ship on 4th April, to search the tbllowing coasts : — Connnander M'Clintock, with .Vir. I)e liray and eighteen men, crossed over the land into llec'ia and Ciriper Hay; provisions sutticient to enable him, with one party, to pursue the search to the \.VV. for ninety days. He reached the opposite shore on the 9th, all in high sj)irits and without an accident. Lieutenant Mecham, with Mr. Nares and fourteen men, crossed at Winter Harbour to follow the coast westerly. From this party I have not heard since. Lieutenant Hamilton, with Mr. Roche and fourteen men, crossed into Hecla and Griper May to |)lact' a depot to search north-easterly along Sabine Island, as I think they will be more likely to reach the rendezvous point by that route than by Byam .Martin ( hamu I. I have great hopes that this partv will have success in rinding something of the missing ships. I'hey are certam to meet your parties, if Wellington Channel is not a blind one. On 19th of .\pril my Manks's Land party returned, and with them Captain M'C'lure and party from " Investigator." You can fancy, better than I can paint, my delight on shaking hands with him. His despatch will convey to you the effects of Mr. I'im's appearance on his side ol' the strait. On 'id May his second party, consisting of four officers and twenty-four men, arrived, all in a vi ly bad condition, — nearly all affected with scurvy. They ai'e now, on the good diet, rapidly improving. Finding tiiese men in such a bad condition (two men died since Captain M'Clure left on the 7th o; .Vpril, and one on the day before Lieutenant Pirn's arrival there,) I despatched Dr. Doniville and a party over the strait with orders to assist Commander M'Clure and the surgeon of the " Investigator," in survey- ing the remaining otiicers and men; and I have directed ("ommander M'Clure (who leaves this ship at the same time) to desert his ship, if the medical officers consider his crew unlit to stand anot'ier winter; and also, as I consider the men have doni' their work, to leave liei . 'le has not more than twenty volunteers, which is the least number that sli. >;uld be navigated with. It would be a glorious thing to get her through this way, the other way she cannot go. This afternoon Mr. Roche, mate, with ten men from my crew, and two officers from " Investigator," leave for Meechey Island, to go home the rirst ojjportunity. The men I send from my crew are men that I could not send to " Investigator." The others arc all absent travelling. Should Commander M'Clure not leave his ship, " Intrepid" will take all " Investigator's " crew, with directions to touch at Beechey Island for orders, and then straight home, with a recpiest to their Lordships that she may be sent tome next year, accompanied by a vessel with provisions (solids), clothing, and fuel ; remaining myself for the issue of her attempt to itoss. Should it be found necessary to leave iier, \\v will all go easterly for Beechey Island, leaving the depAt here for (Japtain CoUinson, of whom not a word has been heard or tracing t'ound by Connnander M'Clure's travelling parties. Do not think of waiting for me yourself. Leave me a vessel at Beechey Island, and a good depot, sufficient to place us on full allowance when we get there, and to sustain us for a winter. It will Ik' necessary for " North Star" to have her water complete, and us L4 II 1:1 iri < 88 1'^ li nunv caskH as she inii fill iH-sidos, in iciulincss to supply any vi'ssol tliiit may tench her; to Iw Imlliistt-d, and nil tlu' provisions slu- can spiiiv laiuU'd in u lecun- (k'|W)t, iTiidy tor a start, and all will lu- well. All my travi'lling parties lift in the liifxlu'st spirits, in the lu'st possiide con- dition, and adinirahly i'<|uippfd. I am most anxious for the result of their journi'VM. If Sir Jolin Franklins ship-* are ever to he found, I think they will now. Me assured we will ha\t' tluni lutw* w us. Commander M'Chue, in cominf; over from Hanks's Lmd with a weak partv, was ohlijfed to alter his u)0(le of Iravellini;. Ih' travelled and rested tor six hours alternately, and made a wonderful jnurney from ship to ship in twelve days— a distance, ns the crow tliex, of 1()7 miles. Mr. M'l)oUf;r.ll, auxiliary to Lieutenant Hamilton, to whon\ I have yiven the N.K. Saliine route (not heini^ able to go myself), has this monunt returned, havinu; gone over the land to Hechi and (iriper Ihiy. a distanie of torty miles in a straight line, in thirty-one and a half hours, travelling with heavy sledges, -JOO pounds per man, and returned in twenty-six and a half hours, which was done, we thought most rapidly, in tifty-one hours, moditying the routine of tra\elling in this way: — •turting at 1 I'.m., travelling until 1(1; lireakfasted, tented, and rest four hours; travelled four hours, dined, and rested for nine. In the old way the whole jouniey was made from the time of starting to hmch, which was a miserable affair; too cold to stand still, men getting chilled and stiff". After hmch little was done though travilling three hours — men simply hanging in their belts, and getting thoroughly fagged. Another means of extending our journeys we have adopted, the result of which has not yet appeared : — each extended party has a small sledge, wiighing twelve pounds, five feet long, six inches nigh, wliich we sible, certainly twenty miles a day. By this means their journey will be extended I'orty miles, and who knows but that the la>t mile may be the most fortunate one? It is very painful to me to be obliged to send away Mr. Uoehe with thi.<( party ; it looks as if I wanted to get rid of him, or that I could most easily spare him. On the contrary, he is one of my mo;.t etiicieiit officers. IIi- was auxiliary, with ten men, to Bank>'s Land party, in the almost forlorn hope journey, and brought back his men without accident. lie has since been over the land as far as Cape Mudge, in Ilecia and (jri|)ei' Bay, and is now going in cliarge of ten men and two olficers to Heechey Island. .\ny man that does his work I know will have your intinence; you will therefore, I am assured, use it for him in the proi)er cpiarter. His crew think they are disgraced by being sent ttway; not so, they are all excellent men; their only fault is this eat. You will be pleased to hear, and their Lor(lshi|)s will have again to express their satisfaction, at my having so goo«l an opinion of my oflieers; they have all vied with each other in the perlbrmance of tluir duty, and also in pleasing me. My next letter w ill show w hat stuff they are made of. Before leaving Kngland I sent the services of Mr. Richards, my eli'rk in charge, to their Lordships, with a re(|nest that they would not forget he was an old officer. His conduct and attention to his duty since has been such, that I can fearlessly state their Lordsliips, by his |)roiMotion, would be making a valuable addition to the li>t of pur>ers, and it would be highly pleasing to me. Should these ships not break out this season, it will be necessary for the " North Star" to send a uarty to meet mine at Cape (.'ockburn next spring, with full information of all that is going on and what has been done. I will bo there myself if possible, and await her jiarty ; if they keej) the coast-line on board we cannot miss each other. Leaving Beechey Island on the Itli April, they will have ample time to return, and have mild weather. Mine will leave at the same time. In requesting their Lordships to send out more provisions, by all means demand Hogarth's ])reserved meats and vegetables, with a goodl'v supply of Mr. Allsoj)'s ale, which has kept exceedingly well, and is eagerly sought after by all; there is more virtue in a ])int of 'it than a gallon of rum. ' It is so valuable that I now mix it with home brewed, which produces an excellent i 89 bcvcriige. Mr. Allsop has rcrtniiily (l;)nr \is jiiHticc in the rcprescntntion of the ale he siipnlicd. Thi* glu/e soup and dried vegutnhleH arc also admirable and mont useful — Sec Report on Provisionn. I send you an abMtraet of our cxpcnHes of fuel, ^e. during a summer month, our first month in winter quarters, and our coldest month. I left " North Star" with more than thirty-six tons of eoals, so that with proper economy she has omple for the period she is provisioned for. I cannot enter into all the detail of my voyage, hut I have done so where I thought it would he uselul or necessary. What a ;;rand consummation it would be if you found the missing ships! — any of the people, from the evidence of the state " Investigators" came here in, with abundance of game about thcni and / near them is impossil)le. Trusting that you luid those under your command arc happy, ond in the enjoyment of good health, I have the honour to he, Sec. IIknuv Kki.i.ktt, Captain. Mr. Chandler, my boatswain, whom I send in the party to Heechey Island, I have to rc(piest their Lordships will be pleased to allow to remain at Woolwich until the arrival of the " Uesolutc," to assist in returning the boatswain's stores. l''orming two of tljc same party are Abraham Siury, cooper, and John (loodey, carpenter's mate, both excellent men ; the former come from the arsenal ut Woolwich, and is desirous of again serving there ; the latter, who is un elderly man, with a large family, is also desirous of entering one of the Govern- ment establishments. I beg to submit the same for the approval of their Lordships.— H.K. !l No. 2. Captain Kkllktt, C.B., to Connnander M'Cliue. ■ Her Majesty's Ship •'Uesolutc" in Winter Quarters, D?aly Island, Sir, Bridporl Inlet, 9Hi March IS");}. As it is possible that you may not have broken out last year, I have determined on sending an early party to comnumicute with you. From the officer in command of this jiarty, you will receive a copy of the orders addressed to Sir Kdward Helcher, C.H., who conunands the Arctic Expe- dition, the western portion of which is under my orders. These orders will show you what their Lordships hope may be effected by this expedition. The chart that you will receive at the same time will show yim what has been done by the grand exertions of the officers in Captain Austin's expedition, through Commander M'Clintock's record at Winter Harbour. his incomparable arrangements, with which you arc partiully acquainted by Undoubted traces of " Krebus " and "Terror" having passed the winter of 184r>-46 at Heechey Island, were found by Captains Austin's and Penny's expeditions. Traces were also found some few mile^ up Wellington Channel. Thf s' i."uccs Sir Edward Delcher has followed up with a fine prospect of being well aSth of the same month, and almost despaired of getting farther west, but retreat I would not ; however, we were favoured with very strong N.W. winds during our detention, which opened a lead; in this we got as far east again as (iritiiths Island, and eventually into open water, which we carried along the land as far as the south point of Byara Martin Island. There we were detained a couple of days, and again for two or three more a few miles west of I'everlv Inlet; and final! v reached the floe edge 'M ■ii:, \v $ » ! ! ii 90 li of Winter Harliour on 7tli Ser'>^('iiil>i'r. The faat ice extended thun rut point of File IlarlNmr due Hout!., unto the |)tirullcl o( I'oint Ileum, leaving (ivr niilet of lie between us iind tin- siuulMtone ni the hurlMinr, on wliieh your record wm fuund i not at thi;* time, but in OetoU'r, by one of my autumn travelling partner:*, returning from laying down a dejiot in Liddon (lulf. While at thin Hoe edge we had as nuiih um we eould U, your crew in high spirits and healthy. I have therefore no apprehension about your safety ; but you will now have been three winters in the ice ; you w ill therefore, i think, have formed your plan of operations, whether to leave your ship and come to me, or to run a chance of breaking out in the uutunui, and procec2 ; in fact, any infonnation that would be interesting to their Lordships or the public, as I may meet some of Sir Kdward Belcher's parties, or I may send a party to Beechey Island. 5th. What can I do for you ? I have not been equally fortunate with yourself in my crew. I have lost two : yt8 91 one, a marine, 'llioniaa Moh'..'y, (nuMenly, and the otht-r a seninan, (uorgc Dmvcr, ot'coniiumption. Willi tliiH fxccption, nil wt-ll. Gniiic is pretty altuiulnnt hm>. Wc have killed tweiity-fivc rmiftk oxen, a few n-indier, hnri-R, and ptarniigiui. On the back of the orders you will find ii list of the articles I int»Mi(' to leave in depot on the south point of Dealy Isliind, the <;rriifer piirt aireiuh landed j Hovcn inonthH for sixty-six men. In addition to this I placed in depot coming along — 7 days for •)! men at Anxistancc IlarlMuir, II days for JM men near Cape ('ockhurn, 10 days for "<> nien, Winter Harbour. There in also a lM)at and a couple of casks of biscuit at Point Hotham, the " North Star" stationary depot at Hcechey Island. Heforc leavin); l'.nf;land, Mr. Wynniatt was made a lieutenant, and Mr. Paine • purser. I am sorry 1 have not similar information for yourself. Any infornuition tliat I have omitted in this will be easily obtained from my officers, who will f^ive you the history of our country since you lell. It now oidy remains for me to congratulate you most heartily on your health and s\u'ccss. You liave not found any of the missint,', but you have shown (U'cr a great extent of coast where they have not been. Your discovery of the North-^Vesf Passage will, I feel, be highly pleasing to ♦' cgood people in England, particularly as the discovery, which has cost much in lives and treasure, has been made known by the energetic perseverance of their own officers, and they are not slow to reward prominent merit. I have, &c. H. Kku.btt, Captain. M rf I No. 3. Commander M'Cluui: to Captain Hknuv Kkli-ett, C.B. II. M. S. " Uesolute," Dealy Island, Sir, 2(\ May 1853. I UAVK great pleasure in acknowledging the receipt of your letter of the 9th March last, which reached nu' in the Bay of Mercy, Haring Island, through the ])ersevering exertions of Lieutenant I'im, under circumstances most arduous, difficult, and trying, unsurpassed in Arctic tr:i\elliMtr, from the early period in which the. journey was undertaken, with the thermometer ranging from —10" to — 50", arriving, without the slightest injury from the excessive cold, on the Gth ultimo. I would, wert it possible, endeavour to C(mvey the state of feeling which animated not only myself, but every soul, when his sudden and niost unexpected appearance on the Hoc, about 200 yards tVom the ship, was remarked: All description nmst fall below the reality. Only imagine, if you can, a whole crew, which had to this moment no idea ol my ship but their own being within the limit of these dreary regions, cut off from the world, their isolated situation (and in defiance of all exertion), a little despondent, when accidentally a Htnini>e, remarkable, ami solitary figure is seen nij)idly advancing, showing festicuiation.s of friendship similar to those used by the Esipiimaux, black as axbus from the smoke created by cooking in his tent. My surprise, I may almost add disma}', was great in the extreme. I paused in my advance, doubt- ing who or what it could be, whet lier a (K'nizen of this or the other world ; however, the surprise was momentary. " I am Lieutenant Pirn, late of ' Herald.' Ca]>tain Kellett is at Melville Island." And as the apparition was thus indubitably dis- covered to be solid real Knglish flesh and blood, to rush at and seize him by the hand was but the first impulsive gush of feeling. Tiie heart was tea full for the tongue to articulate, as this dark stranger communicated his errand of mercy. The sick, forgetting their maladies, jumped from their liauunocks; the healthy their despondency — all flew to the only iiatchway that was open, and in far less time than it takes nic to write this, all hands were on deck. Such a scene can never be forgotten; all was now life, activity, and joyful astonishment. In the twinkling of an eye the whole crew were changed ; but I shall cease to say more, for I might write much, but never could, even faintly, convey the M 2 ^i 92 most remote idea of the sensation created by this most opportune and provi- dcntiiil arrvial of your relieving party. I liavc heartily to congratulate you on reaching your present position, which appears to me the most eligible for an early start that could be desired. The wintering either in deep bays or harbours is, in my opinion, to be avoided, a weather shore and open coast being preiemule; as the first opportunity for opera- tions may be seized upon, which the beinj? blocked in harbours would most certainly retard. The laving out of numerous, and in some positions, large depots both in the way through the straits and by travelling parties, has rendered the service of all cinploved in these regions, should circumstances compel them to evacuate their vessels, a matter of comparative ease, and removes every apprehension as to their ultimate safety, a feeling which is entertained by myself and participated in by niy whole crew, animating all from the approximation to our present position, of cheerfully awaiting the result of the ensuing summer in expectation of liberating tiie vessel and bringing her to join you under Melville Island, a circumstance I consider far from improbable, although from a remark in your letter, it is evident that the report of Captain Ommamicy, showing that the shores of Prince Albert's I^and towards Cape Walker stands nearly at right angles to the western month of the strait, has made you somewhat doubtful, as you are apprehensive, should we get from our present position, that the ship would neccisarily be set to the eastward in the pack, and most likely be thrown upon that coast, — with respect ti) which, I can only remark, that on the 2tth September IS")!, when running I'rom the Bay of Mercy, I had every reason to believe, from the loose appearance of the ice (which was then ropidly setting before a strong N.W, wind into Barrow Strait), that had we fortunately reached thus far twelve hours earlier, we should have succeeded in crossing to Melville Island wiiiiout diHiculty ; us also in the month of October, on a change of wind to th'.' S.K., the entrance cleared as far across as could be remarked by the eye from Banks's Land ; but in 1852 the ice did not break up in the Polar Sea, con- eequentiy that in the Bay of Mercy and in Barrow Strait could not move, from which causes nothing certain can be calculated upon in tiie navigation of these waters, everything depending on the season and direction of the wind. The exceeding early rise in the temperutvue induces me to believe that the ensuing summer will be very favourable for navigation, and that we may confi- dently anticipate a release this year, but of course it depends upon circumstances, over which no control can be exercised ; but the experience of three previous seasons indicates this to be a remarkal)ly forward year. I now proceeil to answer your intirrogations ; tir>t, with respect to our sanitary state since May \Hh-2, the liealth of myself and otlicers has been cxceUent, with the exce])tion of .Messrs. Wymiiatt and Sainsbury, (mates.) The latter has suti'ered inueli from a pulmonary eomj)laint tliat subjected him to treatment soon after entering tiic ice in IS'^O, and has now assumed very unfavourable symptoms, ami he is now not considered sniliciently strong i'or removal. The crew has been worked hard in ballasting and watering during the months of May, June, and .Inly, which reduced them in flesh considerably. A supply of venison, allowing an issue three times a week at the rate of a pound and a halfjier man, sii>fain;'d them admirably in liealth until this duty was completed. The elVects of short allowance were, however, visible during the winter ; our sportsmen not being able to i'unii.-li, in the early part of it, above one meal of venison weekly, conseipiently many were attacked by scurvy ; but since the com- niencemetit of the present yeai', ^ve ha\ e fortunately been al)le to increase the issue of that nutritious food. Although this has been a most rigorous and trying winter, their cniiiiilaints gradually suli^ided, and on he 1st of April there were but three confined to their hammocks, and all iu better condition than I could have anticipated. Up to the Ith of April our mnnbcrs were undiminished, which circumstance is of itself a very si rung ])n)iif ol' t!ie liealth we have all enjoyed. I, however, regret to say tliat, on the night of tiie ."ilh of .April, a sudden and unexpected event oecuiTrd in the death o!' John Boyle, who uniiappiiy drank off the con- tents of some medicine bottles that he was (liieeted t(» wash, which brought on m acute attack of diarrlura at l.liO i' *.* y)*!*-]* if d (•..»„ii. And yesterday I received intelligence from Dr. Armstrong, that Kerr, gunner's 93 I ' mate, and J. Ames, A.B., had died. The former had been long suffering from dropsy ; the latter but a few days from disease of the heart. Having now discharged all the most weakly part of the crew into this vessel, I find there remains but one in the list, from a tumour formed in the throat, and that the others arc in high spirits, from which (and the consequent increase of provisions, I shall now be enabled to issue, when coupled with the mild weather that has for some time continued, with the certainty of wild fowl and other game during the summer, as well as sorrel,) I have every reason to believe that our sanitary state will be better than the corresponding period last year, as we have no arduous work to perform ; the ordinary duties of the ship being all that is required. Second, with regard to my intended movements, I cannot do better than refer you to my dispatch to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, written pre- vious to my knowledge of your being in this vicinity, which will be now partially carried out by your approximation, and all apprehension as to our ultimate fate removed. From the cause mentioned in the early part of this letter, I do not think that you will require any further information on this head, as you are perfectly aware of my opinion as the feasibility of carrying out the views which 1 have mentioned in my communication to their Lordships : and should the season be favourable, which, from its present appearance, I have every reason to believe that it will, I see little to prevent; but should we unfortunately be detained another year in the bay of Mercy, it is my wish to send you (as soon as the strait is finally frozen over) fourteen of the crew, which will reduce my complement to twenty. Tliis arrangement will admit of giving those remaining nearly double allowance of provisions, Avhich will fortify them against the rigour of a iburth Avinter, and in the spring of next year we must necessarily desert the vessel and proceed to join your pendant. The quantity of provisions at our present allowance, you will see by the enclost (I return is ample for our consumption. Potatoes being the only article that I would beg of you to supply ; a few cases of Avhich can without difficulty be taken across on my return. I believe this is all that at present is required to be noticed, and as you are DOW fully acquainted with our situation and all circumstances connected with it, also my ardent desire to complete the passage by conveying the "Investigator" and tlu! remainder of the crew in safety to England, in the accomplishment of which I feel perfectly persuaded of your hearty co-operation and assistance. I cannot refrain from taking this opportunity of expressing to you the grateful feelings that all the officers and men, in common with myself, entertain for the cordial and truly Hiitish welcome with whicli we were greeted on our arrival on board the " Resolute," by yourself, officers, and crew. The impressions of such kindness, rendered grateful beyond measure from the peculiar circumstances of our position, will, I am thoroughly sure, never be eil'aced fromoiu* recollections. I have, &c. RouKRT M'Clure, Commander. No. 4. Captain Ki:i,i,i;tt, C.B., to Commander M'Cix'nE. By Henry Kellctt, I'sq., C.B., Captain of II.M.S. " Resolute," and Senior Officer in Barrow Strait. IIkrkwitii you will receive an order to hold a survey on the otlicers and crew of II. M. ship under your command. Shoidd the medical officers, after duly considering the state of the crew, beof opinion that from debility vt other causes the men arc unfit to cciitend with another winter in this climate, you will leave your ship with your whole crew, and join me at Dealy Island. Siiould they find the men's health such tiiat they are of opinion by remaining there would not be more than the average risk of liealth in this climate, you will give the men tlie option of voliuiteering, — should the number of volunteers not amount to twenty men, which you conceive is the least possible number with whicli you could attempt to navigate these seas. M3 >■ > 31 i il ^: 'nil :'.i : 1 i rt. m r^: Ji 9« ! i .". You will, under these circumstances, also leave her and join me here. For reasons advanced in your letter to me, vou state that there is a proba- bility of your being released and reaching Melville Island this season. To make the Passage would be highly creditable, and redound to the national honour. It is only, in my opinion, now that the existence of the Passage ia actually known, a second consideration to that of the safety of your crew. The object of your voyage, the search after the missing expedition, having been fully accomplished on all the coast within your reach, unfortunately with- out success, no discredit can be attached to you or your crew, who have so nobly persevered through three Arctic winters. You are aware of the resources of this ship, and the orders under which I am acting. Your ship, should you be obliged to leave her, will be advantageously placed as a dep6t for Captain Collinson, should he reach her position. I place the greatest confidence in your judgment. Given under my hand on board H.M.S. " Resolute," Winter Quarters, Dealy Island, 5th May ISS.^. (Signed) II. Kellett, Captain. No. 5. Commander M'Clure to Captain IIicxiiv Keli,ktt, C.B. H.M.S. "Resolute," Dealy Island, Sir, U)th April 1853. In consequence of the departure on the 15th of this month, of Lieutenant Cresswell, with a detachment of seamen and marines from H.Sl.S. under my command, for embarkation on board this vessel for a passage to England, to enable me to carry out the views mentioned in ni}' letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty on the 5th instint, having also Mr. Sainsbury, mate, a great invalid and incapable of doing duty, who, should we not get out from Bay of Mercy this season, will have to Iw discharged with the senior lieutenant and party, into the " Resolute " during the autunm. I have to submit it will be necessary that another commissioned officer of the wardroom rank should be appointed, and to request that Mr. Stephen Court, second master, may be ordered to act as master of Her Majesty's Ship, under my command. The exemplary conduct of this officer interests me in his behalf, nnd it was my intention to liave done this, ns nientioneil in my lefter to the Lords Com- missioners of the .'Vdmiralty, with which you are acquainted. I have, \c. RoRKRT M'Clirk, Commander No. 6. Captain Ki:i.i.f.tt, C.H.. to Commander -M'Ci.tiii:. H.M.S. " lUsoluto," Dealy Island, Sir, 'ioth of April, l^'yX luAvi; to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of yesterday's date, request- ing that a connnissiionetl officer of wardroom rank iiiijiht hv a])p()intid to II. M.S. under your connnand, and recommending Mr. Stephen Court, 2(1 master, for advancement. I fully concur with you in the necessity of u second cNccutive ofliccrof ward- room rank being on board the " Investigator," atid cndoso an acting connais- sion as master for Mr. Court, whom yon have recomincndi'd. He is to be borne in lieu of a lieutenant, aikr the departure of tliat portion of the crew for this ship, for passage to Ijiglaiid. I have, iS;c. II. Kr.LLKTT, Captain. 95 I I I I I r. e • Id 7 I I I I o'd I I I I 2 3 I 00 I I o d I I I I I I I I o I I I I I I o Ol 7 ^5^ «< I I S 2 I I I I I I w I I o ■* ^ at »-t I o I. + 91 00 (^ o o + o _ <^l. Jz; — = — ^ »o OD oo •* F« O <= O S 1 cq S U U] n. 00 » ° 2 - o m I o *6 O o «i n 94 Ct « ' W5 w 00 lo PH X l« r-i ^ -^ ^ to -*• 5 -. O ^ o u> a ct 9) ■< a '^ s I Pm I I o ^ I I I I I o to I I ! I 1 ri 2 I I I I I I I I I I I I I J>'i-4t 96 No. 8. DiuKNAL Variations of the Thermometers at Melville Island, 1852-53. i i n 11 1.1 111 17 IH in it I M t\ •^. 1 ! 3 K •, n r f « 10 1 1 \i / N K \J \ 1 1 ^ / / •^ - ^ri. / ' ~~ ~-». — — '" / ^ \ L ^ l''l!»3 . — ^ 1 r^ \ . II ^ ^ > 1 A 10° -83 \ ■^ / /i ^ SG" -48 - -^ — ■^ - ^ ^ ^ '>. "^ / ^ ^ 1^ — — s. i i y ■^ -- ^i ' .. -, 35' -84 — ^ y N N 1 A ^ / ^ ^ \ 1 i 7 / ^ ^ N K \ :ir-irs ■^ '^ / ; V \ - ^ 1 ■ / \ K i 1 / N \, 1 1 / s K h / \ \ X A ^ s 21° -9 \ V. ■^ XI 'y(T^ i 1 > 1 1 i 1 ! 1 1 1 1 1 u_i i ! ! Zero of October 18SJ, Zero, November 1834. Zero, lli'ceiiiber 1853, Zero of JoDiuiry If ,'3. Z*ro 3f February 1853. Zero of March IS 53. I-.' 13 II 15 111 17 1- I'.i Ui --'I I".' '.'1 = 1 'J ;l I .1 li 7 1 J In 11 13 Sc-mIc of 1' (if Ti inp nitiii'i' to O-.'i'i nt";\n iridi. 'I"1il' curve ri-i'- with ini!rr;i-e of T('iiii)er.itiiri>. 97 ¥ No. 9. Tahi.k showing the Direction of the Winds in each Month ; decimal parts of" 1, tlieir I'rcquency. the numbcis in ScptCllltllT 1 IctohiT Novi-mltcr Di-cpiiiN'r .lunuarv Kfhruiirv M:irili issa. lH,Vi. IC.-ii. IH.V.'. IH.W. IHM. \H-,n. Noiili -rk-, •+:t'-'o •3814 •.if'62 • 4.')66 •.I92:i •;;9ii N.x.i;. •O't'24. •0.1,1 •0928 •0698 •0;i()9 •Oiso ■():!()( N E. ■o:i;)(i •Oljll •0.5H2 •00." •0i:)9 •0187 •()1.J7 K.N.E. •0077 '0066 •OJHX) •0l).-,7 •080!) •0187 •0118 El8t •0706 •0099 •0K91 •o;)9,-, "0990 •().;.;:i •o;;6i. K.S.K. •0148 •0174 •0184 ■01(16 •0180 ■1.VJ7 SK. •0!);)!) •O'.'ll •0.)K2 •0M2H •(K),-);! •(X)97 ■OS67 S.S.tL. ■ ()()M5 •OMSl •0291. •0164 •01)11 •0019 Siiutli •04:i7 •OUi,-) •Olio •()0S2 •00t2 ■0011 • 0078 S.S.W. •0027 •oou •000) s.w. •oyia ■(XH)6 •0171- •(K)I6 •0468 "OlOi •OOS", W'.S.W. •0107 •lOfiH •0127 •0(X)H •oi:i9 Wi'sl •1.517 •o;!.:i •0()H2 •ooos •or.i 1 •0009 •0009 W.N.W. •Oll.'i •(m.->r> •0202 •0:iiiO •l()4:i •0016 •oi;,s N.W. •J'.W •0780 •0291. •0I4S •0479 •0114 •0019 N.N.W. •071'-' •I, -.27 •0809 •1601) •054;i •172 J •2177 ('uluili 16 lidurs. 40 liouu. 8 iiours. 21 hours. 4.^ Iioiirii. 21 liDUrs. 57 lioiirs. No. 10. Captain Ki:u.ett, C.B., to Commander Pi llkn. By Henry Kellett, Esq., C.B., C^iptain of Her Majesty's Ship " Resohite." Sir, Hkukuitii you will receive despatches and other doeunients eoiiiicclcd with the service of the Western branch of Arctic Expedition under the conunand of Sir Edward Belcher, C.B., addressed to him, as well U'^ thoi^c contiiinint'- the pro- ceedin date, all information connected with whicii I think you will do right to follow. Should you have an opportunity of sending to England before a vessel leaches _>ou from this place, you will deliver the dis[)atches from Conmiamler M'Clure into the charge of Lieutenant Cresswell, sending the whole of the party by which you receive this, to Englanil. Ciiven under my hand, on board Her Majesty's sliij) " Kesolute," ' Beechey Island, 7th May isry.i. (Signed) Hi;\uv Kkluett, Captain. Commander PuUcn, Her Majesty's ship " North Star," Beechey Island. li! No. II. Skckrtauv of riiK Aumihai.iv to Captain Kei.lett, C.H. Sir, "th Octoher IS.') I iiAxi; received and laid before my I.oi'ds Commissioneis of tho .\ilmiri the narrative of the proceedings of llii' Wcslerii Division of the Ueiiei' l'\| tioii imder your oiders, and I am desired to express to you the saiisliutlon which their Lordships have reci'ived intelligence nt' the sai'ety of 11,. M. DIm'o Ship " Investigator," under the command of Captain Maclure, and of the sue you were enabled to extend to that ship. , ..•...» ^,. .-..I. 4l.... 11 %\M1\V >llig l\' y\i\i iiivi ..,1.1, III It Itll titt t/l It1\)\l*| t 1 am at the same tiine to express to you their satisfaction at your report ol N llltV, -.ecii- with \iry cour ions ' Viie .|;.t# M'^^^ 9« good condiift of the oHiccrs, M'anu'ii, ainl murines I'mplovi'd under your orders, inore j)iirtieularly wliilsl eugiigvd in their extindi'd sli'dfje journies, the result of whieli, espeeialh those to the westward under Connnander .M'( 'lintoek and Lieut. Meehaiu, \\\\ Lords anxiou^! I:\, I AiiKivKi) here this morninu; on my return to the " .Nortli .Star,"' after having deposited at Cape Meeher, di'spatclies tor Sir I".. Meieher, (hipHcates of which are underneath. 'I'liere is also at l'a|)e Ik'clier a small <'ask of ni'wspai)ers and packet of letters for hoth >liips, hrouiiht out hy C'onmiander Iiif;litield in the " Isabel." He arrived on tiie 7tli of Scptembei- last, and left a;rain the ne.xt day. The *' I'rince .Vliiert" was also with us, arrivinj; on the l!)tli of August. The " North Star" was driven on shore by ice, and a heavy S.Iv i^ali- of wind last September; and. as we htiw not bt'cn ai)le to j:;et her oH' yet, it is verv probal)le that no party will be here on the 1st of .May. Vou therefore deposit your despatches, iVe., and they shall lu' sent tor as soon a> possible. One fiarty will leave when I return for < 'ape Hecher ; they will also have the letters »rou<;lit over by " .Albert " from I'ort Leoj)ul(l, as well as a few more |)apers from Knjfland. W'l' |)assed this on our way to (ape Heciier, hut not Hndinj; it out until I jiot the latitude, .hen about one mile north and two or three west, I would tiot turn back, but made for Ruillie Hamilton Isle. The travellint. Alter breaking his two sleds, was oiiliged to proceed with one, made out ot' the two sound runner>, and part ot' his party of twelve to I'oint I'liillips and Hecher, li'aving the remaindei- of party here. Iteached I'oint Hecher on the h»lh of .April, aiul deposited dispatches tor Sir K. iii'lclier, also letters and a cask of ui'wspapers for both shi|)s. On his return deposited duplicate dispatches at I'oint Phillips, and arrived here on the l!)th of .\pril. Found the party gone on to the ship, made this cache and left the next day. Party all well. Found the travelling throughout very heavy and dangerous on the west side of the islands, from so much open water and rotten ice — in many places not more thait an inch thick, and covered with a thin coat of snow, through which himself and .Mr. .Al>ton broke. April 20th 1853. No. i:\. Commander Pti.i.KN to Captain Sir K. Hi:i.ciikh, C.B. II. M.S. "North .Star," Heechey Island, Sir, I Itli July Imo.-V IIavinc; acquai?ited y(ai with the proceedings of Her .Maji'stv's ship mider omiiiaiid, up to the endol' February, which 1 letluilli letters from Kiigland ajie lUcher last April, I lag to ibrward you a lurther account up to this From the records I left at Cape Hecher you will be accpiainted with the oi ilie He bei«(-ei"i It and this place. ! cinniiiciiced !nv riturii on t!ie ! Ith April, making an attempt to cro.ss the northern chunnerfor the purpose of 1. my ( at C time. 2. fit ate 90 fmssing to the cnstwunl of the isliind», but whs frustrated in consequence of the leiivy 1111(1 huuuiiockv talt- ol' [\u- iir ; llie like suctcHs I met with in the middle clmnnel, and from the sumecuuse, lofrelher with the rotten and unsafe nature of he tloes, exiiihitinj; manv holes of open water and ice so thin that on two occa- sions myself and Mr. Alston (mate) broke throujj;h into the water. I got into Cornwallis Island again (west of Cape i'hillip.s) on the KHh, and the next day my last and remaining sled was unfortunately broken, so that it was with nuuh difficulty I reached Mr. Penny's boat, leavmg duplicate despatches at Point Phillips on ])assing it. Merc I was detained until Mondiiy, the whole inter- vening time being employed in converting the large boat sled, so as to take us back to the ship. Onthe'iOth I arrived at my depot at Cape llcscue, and found the men I hud Icl't there gone to the ship. The ne.\t day 1 proceeded, made for and reaclud {'ai>c Bowden on the afternoon of the 22u, and the ship on th*" 24th, the four men having arrived two days previous. 'X The travelling on the return journey was nuich better from the heavy snow- drift filling up between the lunmnoeks, and taking a somewhat diH'erent route ; hence the short time we took in accomplishing it. 4. The second party had gone olf, and as 1 said in my notice at Cape Becher that they would visit it, feared by their taking the same route I did they would not be able to cross, and having been away only two days, sent a light party out to dtsire the officer in charge to take the eastern route ; unfor- tunately they were unsuccessful : I could therefore only trust that Mr. Shella- bear, on reading the iK)tices left at Cape Kcscue and Point Phillips, would keep well to the eastward on crossing the (Queen's Channel, and thus reach Cape Becher all right. On the afternoon of tlu' 21st May this party returned, not having been able to reach the extreme point of rendezvous in consequence of thi' state of the ice. A copy of his journal I forward. .'). It was fortunate that I left at so early a period, for on returning from Cape Becher the llth and l'M\\ April, found tlie ice had so visibly changed, showing many more large cracks and holes, that on my arrival at Cornwallis Island I did not consider it sate to return, I'ven innnediatcly had it been necessary. (). On my arrival at the ship I found every preparation for getting off in as advanced a stiite as possible. All the heavy ice that had been forced up under the bows, ncnrly to the i)()\vs])rit, was for the third tinu' removed, together with the snow dug down to the solid ice for some distance ahea in a ba} (Mercy Bay) on the north shores of a new island they have discovered, and named ai'ter Sir rranci> Baring. Tliis \v:is. first kmnvn last autunm, by on*' of Cajifain Kellett's travelling parties picking up at winter N 2 ill ' : i if.i 100 liaiboiir tlioir notice lot't on tlic laifjo siindstoiu' iDck. Copies of h-tti'is from (.'aptiiin Kellett, toijetlier with jonriml, clmrt, and other doeiinient* from Com- niiinder M'Chnv, I lake with nie to leave at Cape Heehi'r, retainini; the originals lor tnmsuiission to Knyiand, as per order from the former also eni'hwd. The I'Hker (Mr. Hoehe, mate) from the '* Hesohite " was aei ipaiiied hv tin* boatswain, and ten men from his own slii|), aNo two of the " Investifjator's " otHeeis, sent on here l''>r a jiassaye to Ijiuland the tirst opportunitv . Slaiiy of the " investiuator's ■■ people were left at l)eal\ Inland imaltU' to travel, and if she is to lie tinallv abandoned this vear, all join the " Kesoliite." 9. Considorini;- it iieeessar\ under present eircnmstanees that < 'aptain Kellett Bhotdd he a;'(puiinted with the jxisition oi' this ship, Mr. Uoehe having volunteered to retinn, and Lieutenant Cresswell's opinion heinir favourable as to the practi- cability of doinii so in time, I ,u:ave him a lif;ht etiuipment, all our dojifs, and sent hi'i) olV(Mi tlii' tth June. 10. The men which came from the " Hesohite," as soon as they had recovered from the fatigues of their journey, were employed with our own on the ice ; and we began to make a better show of remo\ing the obstacles about us: still it was a slow process cuttinu; up ai\d parbucklinj;- out such heavy ice. The |K)wder now came into rcipiisition and told well, when on the •J-ltli .lime we luul cleared out so nuieh ahead, that, could we oidy fjet her out of her icy cradle, we mi!j;lit move her on cud with the |)urehases. About twenty tons of |)rovisions, stores, ivc, were not out and placed on the ice alonu;side, which nearly cleared the \essel. 11. llaviui; for some days ])ast observed that the hifiliest tide murk on the sternpost never showed more than II tt. loin., indieatinf;- a decrease in the depth; whereas, under at the port counter it was the same, which I was at a loss to account tor, when on the :ilth .lime I had a hole dujiin tlie ice close to, and ijjot completely throunh to the ground; then by means of a spirit level found, as the tide rose, it Hoatedthi' ice clo^e to fairly off tlii' ground, with the siu'p indu'dded in it. thus actinii on her just liki- an innuense camel. Now 011 eitlii'r side ol the ship, fore and att, and about two fathoms off, the ice that we had taken the lianking otf" was cracked from the main body, but not suth'ciently clear to allou it. ship and all. to no out tottether ; for it was very e\i inches imder llif tore foot, and only II tei't 10 inches showing on the sternpost, so I considered her at least l^i inches at this spot off the ground, i)orne up as bel'ore said by the ice. The purchases therefore being taut, three more charges held in readiness; the gangway one was ignited, which on exploding, to my great reliif, not (ally shattered the ice about us so nuich, but the sliip fairly moved in her icy bod, seeing which, I had the others in inmiediatelv ; one in a Ixile half way along the main chains; another under the mizen chains, starboard side : and one close by the sternposi, with fiizees cut and ignited, so as to explode in (juick snecessioii. They had tlu' desired eH'ect, for thev so shattered the ice alongside and under the stern, apparently shaking it otf' her bottom, that she sank down iiodily, and with keeping a taut strain on the purchases, sprung ahead : after which, we hove her ahead gradually, until having 101 tnovedlu'r nn nil end " fort v-two feet," wc (ciild i;() ii(» riirtlicr until more ice was out ol' till' wiiv, 'I'hr tide iiNi) was liilliiin, hut liiuiMu: ^jiiincd so iiiiicli, I now t'clt contidi'iit ot' our i^i'ttiiiff iilluiit in f^ood linir, mid as nooii as wt- could clear .-pace ahead where we hiiil lieen eiittiiiji lor heavlnn' into. This weniaiiaffed to do, and liv (leitiii^j on (jradiiallv uiilil we could float, inucli ici' passed into the open spaci' astern : when, on the evcniiiuot' Thursdas, the lUltli iiitiino, we were up to the head of our docl^, and in water wfie -he could lii- afloat at tlii' lowest tides. .Vt'ter Inuinu; lain nine niontlis fast held, powerless in a bed of ice, there was a rejoicinjr this eveniiijr vou inav lie sure, sir, and I trust never to he placed in a like position ajiaiii : such an occurii'iice is, I believe, unparalleled in the annals of .Arctic naviuaiion fur such a leii}>th of time. 12. On the titli instant, the ship's bottom was swept, and we could not detect that she had received anv injurv : she was also as tinlit as ever, makiiif,' no water, at which 1 am surprised, from lately having' strained so nuich. In Mweepintj, much ice was worked off her bottom, and came up alonfj;side the small liower anchor, and with it also al)out thirty fathoms of chain I tear wc shall lose, for the ice in its direction is very heavy and hunmiocky : at all events we may j^issibly pick it up if the ice cli'ars out of the bay : at present I see no hope for it, for up to this date, as far as the eye can reach from the Riimmit of Heechey Island, not a patch of open water is to be seen in any direction but our dock, or the ice inovinn in Harrow Straits. This season, there- fore, I fear will be a vi'ry late one, althouu'h so fiiu' and early a s|)rin<;'. I'A. .\fti'r ffcttint; off, preparations wi'ie coimiieiici'd for my leaviiij;- ; and, as it would be necissary to take a boat, a solid sled was made, and the jrutta nercba boat left by the " Prince Albert" jiot in readiness, and this evening I leave for ('a|)e lU'chcr. W'lu'iu'M'r practicabU-, I propose sendinj;' a boat across to I'ort Leopold, to examine the state of thiniis there. II. .\ll till' pid\isions but nine iiionths" for my own crew are in the course of landiiii;', and \ery iicarlv conijileted. 'I'lie |)erishable articles will be placed in the bouse. Our water is complete, and the ship will be ready for any emerfrcncv by the end of the month. The dock cuttiiiii', althoiiuh over a jiieat distance, I think will be of easy accoinplishnRiit, fir it is now so wasti'd down where We have jiravelled and I'overed with watt'i', that any of our boats would Hoat in it. l.'j. With respect to this place as a winter i|uarters, I do not consider it a safe one for a ship of this draft, for at the time you iieiieially look for the elosinji of the seascai the south ea-t winds a|)]HMr to prevail, driviiifi' in liea\y bodies of old ice, and for us tln're is no sheiti'r whatever. Willi no hope of nettiny- an answer from you in time, I have acijuainted Captain Kellett of this circumstance, and n rei|uest to be allowed to nunc. Hi. On my return from Cape Meeher, I found Mr. .M'Cormick, the surffcon, laid up with a broken rib, since which he has not been out of the sick list. 1 enclose lien'witb the sick rejiort ; and in coiu'ludinu this letter I ben' stron<>ly to recommend to your t'axouraiiie consideration my (xecutixe ottieers, .Mr. Piillen, the master, in partii'ular, whose exertions at all times have been uiiceasinji;, and his suf;u;estions durinu, this tryinir pi'riod most valuable. Mr. .\lston, mate, has shown a worthy e.xainpk', not only at this time in particular, but on the journey with me to I'api- Meclier and back auain. .Mr. Shellabear, the si'coiid master, has not only done his work well, but on two occasions wliiii he had charue of travelliiifi' parties, his conduct of them has fully met my approbation. The behaviour of my crew has (piite (Mpialled my expectations. 1 have, \c., W. J. S. 1*1 i.i.KN, C'oimnauder. f No. 14. Cape Rescue, .luly 17 lf^;')3. C.\rT.\i\ I'li.i.iiN arrived here !i!;aiii early this nioriiinf>- on his way to Cape Becher, liavin}>; left the " North .Star" in Krebus and 'I'error Hay, on the Uth, with a party of ten men and an officer, with a boat and sled. Proceeded on t!ie 18th. Na in-i ; Thr iiIm>vi- party anivt-d litw on their n-tiini on thi- niorninu; i.l' llir Ith of Anifiist. hiivin>; inVt tlii' " A-^isimiK " mul " I'ioiui r" oil' I'oint Majcndio. Sir V Milclu'i inuiidrd |m>-inn oI' \\'tlliiif;lcii Cliannil to Mc(«lu\ Inland. On li lint' N. ;U M)' \V. In o)nii)ii>>. uiidiriuath tin- si'cond Iu'H|> from this, und I'losf uncUr thf nii>,m'd part of thi- hill, wa> dipo«.ititl aliuiit Tolhs. of iK'niniican, .'»U llis. nl' lirnid, and mhui- umuM', all nninvrd tVoin tlii>, llu' luars linvinj; hmki-n in - .MajestyV Ship " North .Star," Heeehey Island, 12th of .\uf,nist IH5M. 1. I uwi the honour to inform you, that after leavinj; the " .\ssistaiu'e"on the 'i7th ultimo, I j)roi'ei'de(l, Mi'eor, and (lipo..itc(l the notice- c)n the riiek>, over where the |)rovi- sions are deposited ; nhtaineil a \iry im])ert'eet >i't of ohserxatioii-- for time and latitude (by reason of the wi'ather). Crossed to Dundas Island, pa.'-sed down its western shores, and tlia' niifht eneamped about half a mile to the southward of Point l''itzjames ; the next morninti I >tarted with a reasonable hojie from the stati' of tidi', iee, and weather, of re.iehina I'oint I'liillips that evening; but, on arrivinn i>t1' I'oint \'isconte, there was :i thiek ton' eoming up from the southward, quite obseiirin;; the southern land ; still I eould see some distance in the desired direction, therilbre, with a fair breeze, I >hoved oH', determined to make a push tor Cornwallis liand. I don't sup]>os<' I had run more than ti\c miles, before I suddenly found myself encircled w'*'' driving ice, anil idinost immediately we were compelled to sek'ct the hc>\ Hoe and haul tiitV, occasionalK fori'liii; thnuiiih small ])()ols ot' brash ice, I g. it on it, and at I. I.") of the morning of the ;land, and sis to the westward of I'oint Phillip^, whicli jioiiit 1 iiaclii'il at tour tin -anie iiKniiint: ; tbnnd my party there .-ill well, but looking aiixiiaisK tor our arrival. 'J. (.11 the 1st instant, at '.\ \ m., I saw. as if coining tlninigh the ice lor the land, a boat, which I concluileil to be yours, therefore pulled out tiir it ; but (inding it only -i niece of block ice returned, embarked tlie whole partv, laiiled up to the jce, got the boai v>ii the sledge, and proceeded in a direi't line for the island. ,i Ti distance ot?' the land, and before I rot abreast of .Abandon May, MM tlie ice wii<« mo Imd, that the sledge, l)i)at, miil |)iii'l\ l)i'»hip, and arrived on hoard on the evening of the I Ith instant. I found at the mouth of the liav (surroundi'd In ice) ller Majesty's steam vessi-l " Phu-nis," Com- mnnder Ingletield, with a traiiHport Irian l')ngliind, having on hoard provisionH and coals for the expedition, and discharging with all sneiil. 3. Finding ('(anmander Ingletield had lelt forCaiie l{escui' the day hetlac I arrived, taking with hini Mr. Alston, mate, and two lioats; I at first thought of utMiding after him, hut on consideration, and it would take some little time to equip a sledge, I deei dedon sending a jjarty direct to you with dispatclus and private letters. 4. Lieutenant Hellot, the French otticer in the " IMio'iiix," having so gallantly volunteered to lead this party, I have given him thi' command, a liglit eipiip- ment, so as to ensure reaching your ship as speedily as possihie. 5. Commander InglcHeld will, I expect, reach yon about the same time ; learning from Point liescue your probable ])osition. (). The ice here only opeiu'd out on the 1st, when two casks, contnining notices, were set adrift. The ice in Wellington Channel is still heavy anci closely packed, with no appearance of a disruption after leaving Point Uescue till I arrived at Point iimis, where it had broken otf directly across the channel to (!()rnwallis Land, but still floating about in heavy masses. In Marrow Strait it is close up to the floe edge, but from the top of the island haig leads are visible to the S.K. ; to the westward still heavily packed ; both the " I'ho-nix " and transport have been nipped, and are nearing the island whenever an oppor- tunity otlers. 7. In conclusion, I am most happy to inform you, that the anchor from which we drove last Se|)tember, and which I despaiied of recovering, the master Iims succeeded in getting onci' more to the bows. We have therefore happily lo-t nothing, and the ship is now ready for sea with the exception of getting a feu more provisions on board, which will Ix* done immediately the transport is discharged, by which time I trust you will be here. I have, iSfc, W. ,1. S. Pui-i.KN, C^onnnnnder. N.M. I am in great haste to get Lieutenant Bellot ot^', I therefore beg you will excusi- any inaccuracies, and to state that 1 have every confidence in him, and he will give you all the news. ! ,* H \ • '.III. r\ Journal dl' the " North Star," Coininaiidor rulloii, 14th Aii>>ii.st 1852 to I'c'hruarv I8.')3. No. 1. JouHNAi. of the Phockkdinos of Her Majestv's Ship " North Star," in Erebus and Terror Bay, Heechey Island,' Winter of 1852-.'J3. 1. The "Assistance," and " Pioneer," her tender, left for Wellington Channel ii'i' Aujtuu in.w. on the night of the 1 Ith. the " Intrepid" now hauled alongside to take in her share of coals ( having conij)letc(l the pro\ i>i()ns bi'tbre), and on Suii'l'iN nioiiiiiig, about 1 1 A.M., she finished, almost clearing out the " North Star entirely. Provisions, however, we have plenty ; but coals and fui'l I fear we may fall short of. 2. The steamer lit her Hres directly, and as soon as the .steam was up we i ''h Augu,t, " lUw- exchanged parting salutes with her and the " Kesolute," when she took her u.'a'c, charge in tow and steamed otl'to the westward lt)r Melville Island, thus leaving us to our reflections and solitude for the next twelve months at least. N 4 'Intrepid** i I' loi ;l I V Orihis *•' AmiinrntviK f>iutf lli**ln I H«uiii»Cur u»iiiim i'au^f r.ir Mi|i|Mi«liiK « l>H^««ai' Ir ,Mit^ w.ll 11,1. . Vrriiifti iiiviif 4 iiM Cittntn.iiirlcrkliir^prii pill II-. ■' >It*r* \.ulil. Ni.il th ■ 1111. k.. .\'- liilh Au;:iiM. Arraittfeniijjs lor Mt. .M'( urn.ik I Till A111IM..1. t'l)lll|)llll\ I. Tiu' K iiiaiitinu slcdm piirtN, or IhimI |iiirl\ , this mmimoii, i iiiti'iidi it to give in I li.ii'i' to Ml. Slu'llalN'Mi', tlu ^iinnil iiiii»tir, I'iiIIn |iiii'|i(i ii"; it In lie tiitiivly "Icil^t' w.'ik. tlici'i'liirc nut to pi nil' iiMlil the i< r nimlc MitHi'it nilv liir tnivi'llin^ ; iiml ax I liiiil lu'iii'il II 'jicilt iIi'mI nl' l:ilk aliinit the |ii'ol)iiliilitv nl a iia^^ap- ri'iiin till' luad ot Maxwill Uav into mhiu' nnitliiin watti. ur |Hiliai).> .loin-^" .Sound, I, ii« xoon a> till' .'•lii|> \wi< all hiili', di'lcnniiii'd topi into tliat iiav, lor tlic purpoH' of I'xaminiiiu it and «i'fliiii; the niattfi- (oniiiifti'lv at rt«t. iind |h rlia|)s on my irtiirii \i«ii I'oi't Lco|iiil(i. .). Till' caii'f tor till- (•oiijfctiiic am-c Iroiii .Mi. Kralilic, iminn .^!ll^tl•^ ol' tlir " lntri-)iid," liavinu liccii into Maxwell Hay la>t coinini-oion, and cun.'.iiU'rin^ tliiit Ik* could till' coinmanil ol (IMC of tlu- >|irini; jiaitiis liad liitn a laiiui"! Mr by -' Sir I'alwaiil McIcIut. in tlic |HM»on of Mr. .M'( 'oriiiiik. I iiitciidci! jn mij tin- Hcond to Mr. SlicllalKiir. and Icail tlic third invM'lt', |Mir|U)>in!! tluii, il |U),.«>il)li-, to ivacli liu' " .\.>-i.-taiict" in In 1 «inlii i|iiart»is. 7. ('a|itam Killctt luiiiu lln' ia>t Mniur ollicir on lia\iiii;, liandcd nic a li'ttrr iiriiiiin tlu' lu'it-^ily of \i«itiML! I'm! l.c(i|iiiM. wliicli I had aNo ihcidcd on doiiiii. ihrrt'ltii't- would |irr|i;iif for it ; and foii-idcrinu ihat thi' " Mary " \ at'ht 011 the lu-ac'h ill (iiion ll;i\ would lie will Mda|it('d lor the MiAici', I dcU'riniiU'd oil launchihi; and frinuiiiu her into l",nliu> and I riiur lta\ llu' lii>t idini ifciit o|)|Uir- tuiiitx . al>o c« ii 111 iii'^i it llu ln'>l jihu (• lot lui , a> >hi' \Miuld iiio«l likcK ii'(|uiri' repair after the ex in>nic tu Arelie weather. ( )u the atleriiooiiol .Sunda\ I he master and I. till retiiri'. \i>iled the little \e^-el. She wa> Ivini: on a luiavelly lieacli oil the nortliern «liore- of 1 nion lta\,with hei I. eel aliout >ix leit aliove hitsli-watiT mark, with |iro\i->iiin 1 her, lell not oiil\ l:\ Sir .lohii \{t>^- lnit other .Vretie partii^ who had \l-iliil ihe pLiee in f*<,") j . •*. In till' eoiiv-i- of (air r.iiulile we eaine on the ^iediie tracks llielilioiied l>y *oin<' of the Uiriner parties, and on traeinu tiieiii up towariU a deep valley, tluduiili wliieli a rapid -treain wax luniunL;, and lanptyin;; itself in I nion Hay, when we lost all turtiier traces liut the remains of m lirokcii pine sjiiir ; lindinit nolhinn- further, rcturiicil on lioiird. !>. Thix mornim: I luld Mr. .M'( 'nriiiic k that he cnuld leave the >.hip with a iTevv of six men 011 \\'edne>(lMV , riMpicxliim him ,il the xaiiic tiiiu' to acquaint ine with till' ( plant ity of provi»ioMs he would wish to iiiki' and the names of his crew, as he had ^nid liefore thiil sevelnl ot the people IimiI Vdluiileered to accoiupuDV him. Sjiorllv he ua\c me the reipiircd li«tx. ;md I ordered evervthiiin to lie i;ot I'eadv liv thut linu In. On Tuixdiix iiioiniiiLS iu the diiip'v , v ' M ."ilr llalicar, second master, Th, ■• .Mjr. V.i.lii top, ! ] 11. 1 idiiiid Mar\ , Mild coin- iiiie of the ipiarii iniii lis, and the captain ■ '' ; iteechev |oland iiilii I nion iiav, and lain' ' i inenced pre|iaratioiis for p'tliiii.' her otV I he iuaui. II. We had liroiiuht from the >hip a pick-a\e. two sliovdv, two ice anchors, a liiMtaekle and a snatch lilock. (diixidiiiiiu that .i^ she la\ mi the top of a siopinn' lieach, and not far oti" the liii:li-waler mark, il would he ijuite suHicicnt to jict her alioiif half her lenutli over that mark, and the tide would do the rest. All tlie ircar she had was her standiii!.'' riiiuiiii,; ( .Mudiaii riu', a |iiice of chain calile, ic; ,. small anchor, one arm of wiilch wa^ lirukeii olf. I'ndtr the hatches was I'l !■ provision, coii'-i-iiiiii of iiiioul one do/en cask>-, wjiich we pit out, also her •ail-, and •■ad them to ihv,forthev were in a verv dami) state and urentiv II .■..■•.. ■, . , ■ , ' . '^ . • ...:i.i. .. . .1 I M IMII .till .. ..II :. . I- i: I IIU t I tj 11.111 I I I \ III - ] _ ri-v^oiai, a it" ol' old spars, vvhieli came in liandv as rollers. wiiii^e?., aiiii two or tiM'ic pieec's lOA 12. The iinchi)r I hurii-d at low-watrr tnark, paNMoii tlio tliain round licr an a «'•"''»•«''•" ^'"1* nccklwc ill (I hookfd on tlir liiH", wlicn, al'trr ck'urin^ a ^n-at (|imntitv of sliingU' from undrr ncr bilge, hove taut, lint, with all our ctlorts, mIu- did nut hudp! one incli. However, determining not to lie eiinipu red, we had another exammation into the nliingie mider her port liilge and keel, when, on elearing away, found iihe wan liurd Im-'cn right I'ori'iind alt ; it waw >iigtli Irom their pre^ent occupation, 1 nx '\ed on making another iirinijit, and Ik bringing a new auxiliary into plus was siicc( s-,tul. i;j. On the starboard tpnirter ol' the " Mary " lay a large grounded piece ice, left, I suiipose, by the last tide (the vvn^tA was lyinu; with her stern tn tlvi- water); in the outer edge of this ice the two anclioi ^ were tixed; then a haig strap, made of a pii'ce of spare rope, to «hich the Inlt-tuekle, as well as to ilie necklace, «as hooked, and on its tall one of the viiclit's riumers. 'I'lie \m ilgr« and rollers had lieen before jilaeed, we thereforL ^et \»ell taut, when, to m\ delight, I found the anchors hold ; so with all our weight and a good will we itartcd iier. Little us it was, it wa-* ipiite enough ; therefore, after muneroiis fleets and working steady, by midnight of Tuesday -he was in the water. She 'i iked a little, certainly ; hnwevei', provisions were put on boaril again, saiU wer. in nt, and we shoved olV for Mrebus ,nid terror Ba_\ which \>e reached alK)ui lour o'clock on \Vedne,stla\ ni'Mning in a hcavv siu»\vstorrn and strong breeze "tih vup ^l.' from N.N.W. II. It was fortumitewe got in when we chd, for .fore we could make fast to strong " the ship the wind increased so considerably, thai had wc been blown olf the iatnl, very j)r()bable so light as the vessel wa>. she vduld have gone bochly to leeward. The master iid'ormed me too that alnn I all the time I had be- ii away, just twentv-foiir hours, it had been blowin. hard, either from \.\V. or S K. With ns in I'nion Hay it appeared ipiite cui i. l.'i. We iire now working hard to get the ship ilo secnn quarter^ but HnwiMniit.- notwithstandmg all we had yet cut, she seemed as nmch exposed ase\c'i, for with the bree/es blowing lately, the outer parts of mr dock was constiintly' breaking up. It appeared as if the bad weather had >ct in for good, and we were experiencing some of the rigours ot northern region . 1(). .Mr. M'Cormick was not able to get readv befo c Thursdav, in iact it i^"i' Anmi^i .mc. Art,*!- iM Kfelii Itajr Allx'i'i" iiiriv I was blowing too hard ; when at seven o'clock in the mm ing of that day, a sail was seen in the oiling standing in towards us. As slu approached we could lainly see it was the " I'riiuc Albert." when at a (|uartcr after ten .Mr. I'Cormick left for his explorations in Wellington ('ham 1, and just a cpiarter of an hour after, Mr. Kennedy, the commander of the cw arrival, with the i'rcnch lieutenant ( Mellot ) had landed on the floe dose to -. 17- Mr M'Cormick was provisioned for one month, and is he had recrived s,. Kminiurciciu-no orders than Sir Kdward Helcher respecting the coii(lnct i his explorations, I had in) directions to give him. only furnishing him in ritin Mr. .Vl'Curmii'k. g Wltll a th few BUggestioii- and intentioi IS a-. In oin- future proceedmgs. : le expressed great satisfaction with his (it-iait when lie left. IH. 'I'he " Prince Albert " wintered in Hatty Hay, arrivii j, there in Septcm- •• I'l ber ls.")l, shcMtly after vvliicli time- she was driven on shon' by the ice, only getting otl'again when it cased oil", and by taking nmch weig t out. However, when all was made snug ag.tin for the winter, Mr. Kennedy o i the .")th .lanuary l,s.")"i, with a party, started for Fury beach, reaching it on lie Stli, when alter making a small de|)osit ot pemmican (!«• lbs.) returned tohisv ssel by the \'2t\\. .Albirl.' WiiiiiT Qu.itiors. I'rovt'i'iiinp*. Hei ound provisions and c'o;ib at Miry It F bc-ach Ii). On the 'J-'ith February, .Mr. Kennedy again started wit i four men, Mr. (Hot, the l'"i( lu-h liriilcnant. .-md live dogs. TravcdIing - uithward along the coast, they came to an old camping place, (Lieut. Uc.hinsons, of the "Investigator,"! arrived nt ("ape Garncv on flic 1st of April, the Iwttoin ot o' i iH ii; ■■"4 106 * 2u Ii All Ts; ; L'ltMur« Nt>. i, I ■.11 Brentford Bay on the 8th, and found open passages among islands (Bellot Strait) lending through to the westward tv Vittoriii Strait. "iO. Now to de8cril)c their prooiedings, \c., as near a!< jiossilile, in Mr. Kennedy's own words. In the ehanncls tlie ire was open with a strong current, quite as much as six knots, influenced greatly by tin- prevailing winds, and apparently deep water ; land on either side preci|)it<)us, and niucli broken into deep fiords. We got through into Victoria Strait on tlie 9tli, and considered ourselves in the vieinitv of C'ujh' Hird. Tlu' variation Mr. Hellot made 130' \V. 21. From this spot saw a western hnid distant front twenty-five to thirty miles, which to the northward was apparently continuons round to this. To the S.W. evidently the sea. We made for this western laiitiii's expedition. •22. We now proeeedi'd for North Somerset over vi'ry liunimocky ice, and yeached Limestone Island on the Sth ; foinid at ( 'ape M*( 'lintock the jirovisions there deposited, and arri\-ed at I'ort Leopold on the l.")tii May. Mere wc reni.iiiied thirteen days, to recruit not only ourselves but tlij' dogs, for lately we had nothing to feed the poor biutes on but leatlier. When tlu- ice o|)ening out we were able to get on, in tlie boat we had ii'I'l here pre\ iously, to within about four miles otl' Llwin itay, wiiere the ice was again so close that we were obliged to resume the niarcli, and reached the \cs>el in Hatty H:iy on the I5(lth of .May. '2'.\. I asked .Mr. Kennedy iiow he had lixed his positions, regulated his course, itc.. when he referred me to the Frencii ofUcer who has been the navigator throughout, and as far as I can see and learn a most valuable coadjutor. They differed a little in courses, iVc. ; but in main points ag;ced very well. 21. Sn<'h is the sketch Mr. Kennedy gave nie of tlieir proeeedinLis ; doubtless I miylit have got it more fully in writing, but as 1 tliouglit it better to avoid anything that might be considered like intertirence. took tlie account in this way, although .Mr. Kennedy was \i'ry anxious to place hiniseli imdi'r my orders. This, however, I could not agree to, but gave Inni fully to undi'r>tand that I would render jnm every assistance I pos a week since, passed within sight of I'ort Leopold, and stood over to the noithern shore, when seeing us in this bay, came in. .Ml appear to have suffered much from scurvy and hard work, notwithstanding which Mr. Kennedv preferred a reipiest to m"c iiiitnediaiel\- on landing, and before I got liis aceoiiiit, for a ^ntlieient nuinlier of men to make up a Iniat's crew ) as he had determined to riinain out himself, if possible, and complete that portion of the coast yet undiscovered, in the direction of the magnetic pole, and opposite shore : and which I cannot but help consirlering, will be the only passage by which either vessels or boat-^ will get to Hehring's Straits. .Mr Kennedy ■> rea>ori for going north in>lead of south after getting into \ ictoria Strait, was iii-^ not Ih ing aware ot an\ one having Urn at Cape \\ alker. looking on it as a likely jtlaee to get intorniation : hence the mistake about the cairn. 2(j. This re(|uest of .Mr. KenneiU's \\a> lalliei a |ai//linn (]ue-tion to decide on, one I was not at all prepared for; and having beloiv me still an occurrence similar in a former expeiiition, I was ratia r at a loss how to act. .\s it req ired some consideration, I lecjuested .Mr. Kennedy to give nie in writintj what he wished to do, thv probability of its aecoinpiish'nieni, also \sliat he iequired Wv.m us for its execiitinii. He therelore reliinied to l,is xcs^el. which wa' now close into the floe, and the next morning he gave me the required let lei. I i'M 107 27. Mr. Keiuif dy did not enter wo tiilly in this letter into his plans as he had done to me i:i the course of conversation before. However, taking into con- sideration liis known ciipabilitics lor the work, the help of a good train of dogs whicl) he would take with iiini, his men well accustomed to the travelling, and the assistance rc(|uired troni us being so small, (though quite as much as I could spare at the time), barely more than ship room, with the bringing the field of search to so narrow a spas'c, dec idcd me on giving him the required j.^, assistance. I therefore sent him a letter, stating that 1 acceded to his request. Shortly after I received a reply, on the same day, saying that his men were Diito No. j. unfit tor work on the ice: however we were doing very well without them, as I began to see our cutting for the present would soon be over, 'JH. Mr. Kemiedy's intention was to send the "Prince Albert" oft" for F-ngland as soon as possible, himself and party, in all amounting to six men, leaving soon alter ibr Port JA'o])old, when on landing there to advance caches of provision for spring travelling as far as possible, expecting to reach the bottom of Brentford liay ; then return to I'ort l/copold, and cross to us to pass the winter, either on the ice or by boat, as circumstances pcrniitted, leaving the " Mary" behind. Early in the spring of 18r>;i he was to cross the ice again to Leopold, and coin- nunce his journey southward, with a very confident hope of getting back to us (|uite in time to go home by the first opportunity that might oH'er. 21). I now prepared a party to accompany this gentleman, and as it was likely i>,„,v !„, j[r. NO. 1. •ilv. Mr. Bcllot would return to England, I directed Mr. Alston (mate) to hold himself in readiness, not only to take the charge of our own men, but to assist Mr. Kennedy in every way, and look on him as the head and leader oi' the party. lU). I envied Mr. Kennedy the trip he was about to undertake, not only as to clearing up the uncertainty of the missing ones being in that direction, and so contracting the space for search, but proving, what in my own uund is clear, and of whicli 1 have long had no doubt of, that in that direction is the only passage to tlu' .\iuerican continent that will ever be available, and which we have been so long looking for. .■^1. We were now getting on gradually with our dock cutting, while the " Prince Albert's" people were transferring the stores, a list of which ajjpears in Mr. Kennedy's letter to me of the "iltth, to our hold. .Vli hough we had .s.v i;m.i,. nn.' No. advanced pri'tty far into the bay by cutting, the ice was fre(|uently bieiiking off in lai'L'i' Hoi' pieces, leaving us without a dock, and constantly fluting ii]) our anchors. ! lowever I went on, still hoping we should shortly be (|uite 1'nr ciiuugli n.uk (■.'uii..r. for saletv, as all the ice inside the first point of the ishmd was without a single crack in it. or started in the least from the land, nofwithsttindin!;- tlu' winds have bi'cii blowing strong from north and north-west, with dirty unnk'asniif snowv wv.itlier. On the 2;5;l 1 gave u|) cnlting any iiiore, deferring tlu; iiiial dock until the lev brok ■ oiV up to the point, thinking, from the before-mentioned circumstance, that it would not go any further; but considering it \ery probal)le th.'tt some of those strong gusts of wind now so freipient, assisted b}- pressure oi' ihc Ik-ivv iiietc'- of iec. often bivaking off, might (lri\e us cnit to sea, we prepaicd I'oi' it by donbk' reeling the topsails, and hoisting the boats up, fei'liiiii' I'onlidenf that so lonir as the young ice did not make we could regain our position oi' hold our own under canvas. ,'vi. The " rrinee .Vlherl" all this time was lying close under our stern, and making all ])reparations for lea\ing, when on .\londay I got a letter from .Mr. Kemu'dv , saving that hi' "•'•■ -^onv to Hud he nvi'-t gi\;' up all idea of the ixjie- dition he had planned for the futuiv, as his men had witlninnvn, the ostensible reason being, as he al'terwards told me, that they did not Ihink our men could perlbrm the jnirney not even keep up in travelling. I'nder these eiicuin- stances Mr. Keime(l\ considend it better to give it up, and make the best oi' his wav home. As for oiir men not being able to do the woik was, I think, a niiseonceptioii. lor I was perlectlv satisfied that they would have got on as well as the others, and were bolh ri'ady and willing to go. 1 think it a good oppor- tunity los'i ; sneh another may not occur, for the advantages are so L-icat in haviiiti' i)ro\ i](/:is t I'orl l,eo|i.)ld a!ul l''ury beach, and knowing the greater part ol'lhe wav, and with dogs into the bargain, it could not but be suece-ist'ul. 1 sill. old like >ueh ail ojijiortuniiy t.i be thrown in my way. '.V.i. In rcpiv to Mr. Kennedy's letter I gave hhn fairly my view on the subject, and reiiuested him to take the provisions he had put on board c f us 2 Kill '.111 .Vugir.t, Air. Ki .■il\ 's witJKir.rva!. S... l;.id,. It.-., Op, Ki>, I No. ! I Mi: i; ! i :i \ k 1 ■ ; f.'i i 1 I P4 Proviiioni landetl by •' Prince AUhti," and pldctd vncuctu''. 4th Aunu'-t, " Princi' Alt>ert" ImvM. •* Prince AlbiTt ledvis ler doc*. Iluw i-niployi'il. lOS tor the use i)f his own men to his own vessel again, but instead of doing so he decided on landing it on the island, and placing it encaohe, disposable for any purpose required. I therefore promised to put them into the house about to bo built, when finished. 34. Mr. Kennedy decided on leaving the next evening, therefore after havinff got all his provisions on shore, completed an unsuccessful search of the island and northern shores of the bay, then came on board to say good bye. When I Iiad li mdcd to him all despatches lett with me for transmission, together with my litters to the Secretary of the Admiralty, they letV, us, and at 7'30 p.m. the " Prince Albert" made all sail for old Kngland, in a heavy snow storm, and strong N.W, wind. 3"). Mr. Kennedy had intimated to me his intention of drowning his dogs when he got to sea, rather than take them home ; I Iwgged that he would leave tliera here, as their having been trained by his own men, and spoken of so highly, they would be of great service to us. He complied, and also left with his pro- visions a gutta percha boat. He wished to have in exchange our dingey for his second Iwat (a mahogany whale boat), but as she was our most useful one, especially for running out warps, I declined. From Port Leopold he brought all letters loft there by Sir James Ross, and Mr. Kennedy having visited that place so lati !y, and finding the provisions in good condition, I have decided on not going there this season. 36. We were now busy cleaning up the ship, having done nothing since clearing out the supplies for the squadron; consequently she was in rather a dirty state from the coal-dust. All our attention had been directed to getting into a good berth for winter, which kept all hands full of activity cutting dock. Material was also taken on shore for the house, when after selecting the site on the south east part of the island, in about the most sheltered place Irom the cold north winds; the dimensions were marked out, 30 x (Jo, and men began digging for the main supports — rather a difficult job, for the ground was frozen hard a short depth from the surface. 37. The ice now appeared all fast inside a line from the first jwint of Beechey Island, within where the steep cliffs recede from the coast, across the bay to about one mile north of Point Uiley; and we were lying close up to the Hoe, fast by ice anchors, with seven fathom- of water under the ship, ancl about a quarter of a mile from the shore. (Quantities of the ice that had broken off came into the i)ay again, which, with the young ice making and holding all together, it formed sometimes a compact body all round us ; and considering the ship in about as good a position as she could pcssihly l)e imtil the ice fully made, I resolved not to defer the visit to Maxwell Hay any longer, or it might he pre- vented altogether. One of the cutters was tlierelbre ])repared with one month'8 provisions for five men, Mr. Alston (mate, who volunteered to take the place (if the sixth man and do bis work), and myself, when, after handing to Mr. T. C. Pullen (master) instructions relative to the care and duties of the ship, at 2.30 of the afternoon of the '26th I shoved off with a good breeze fresh from N.X.K. 38. We ran speedil} across the l)ay towards Cape Riley, and at five minutes after four were ofl' Gascoine Inkt, which was quite clear of ice. Off Cape llicketts passed through a great (piantity of sludge and broken Hoe driving out of Kadstock Bay ; stood across tor Point Kardley Wijmot, when about half- way the wind, having freshened up, with such a nasty iopof a sea, against which we made so little headway and shipped so nuuh water that 1 was compelled to B««r up nihi run i.uk. 'near up and run back for Ciascoine Inlet, «liich, under the then existing circum- stances, was the only safe landing, RacKtock Bay being f'ldl of ice and driving hea\ily on the leeward shore. Entering the inlet nuich loose and hea\y ice was beating on the eastern shore for about two miles inside the point, with a strong breeze blowing dead out, causing us both difliculty in getting in and landing: however, by i0.1"> I'.M. succeede. In clearing the boat I saw directly \vliat it was made hei-, naturalh' so buoyant, so log-like in rising to the sea. The men in stowing her had, instead of letting the tarpaulin in the bottom to place the provisions on, \c., lie flat, iuriied it iijt, makiiig a large and deep dish ; consequently, the water she shipped could not escape to the well, and was never wholly baled out. At all events, before starting again, I decided on leaving part of the provisions here till our Sutt' :iii(l position ut' the ice. Stf Kiiclovnri- (I I)). 2fith Aiiiruvl, K-avf tor .Mat » til I)a>. CiscoltK- Inlet. I.jnd antl cneriinp. 10^ return; and judging from appearances, we were likely to have a detention, perhaps for some time ; we got our suppers, a most welcome repast ; into our blanket bags, and slept soundly for the remainder of the night. 40. It was blowing hard all this day, weather looking very dirty and rather 27th Augmt. too much sea on for a boat ; we, therefore, held on. A meridian alt. at the point gave the latitude 74° 38' N., C!ape Riley bearing N. 77° W., and the Pwition. opposite high bluft' point of the inlet N. 46° W. A very indifferent set of sights for time in the afternoon made the longitude 91° ^0' W., which places the point farther west than the chart. In the meantime a hole was dug, provisions buried, and boat loaded again ; when, moderating towards night, the next morning we shoved off, and on the evening of the 29th landed a short distance froin the head 29th AuguA of Maxwell Bay. 41. As there was time to look round l)efore dark, I walked to the hill rising almost from where we landed, when I got on a soil of terraced land, and strolled on the lowest step for about one mile further north, getting thereby a good view round. The land all round the head of the bay had no break in it either to indicate an open passage, or the possibilit}- of a foot party travelling to a northern water or Jones's Sound from this vicinity. The ice was not clear yet from the upper part of the bay, neither for some way down its eastern shores within the islands, there being one more than shown in our charts ; the bay also is not so wide. Finding this the state of things, I resolved on turning back for the ship ; waitinjj, however, for the noon observation the next day, which I was aoih August. fortunate in getting, giving the latitude 74° 42' 7" N. ; for time I was not so Position. successful, as the fog was hanging about in heavy wreaths ; but the single obser- vation that I did get, bad as I considered it, gave ISH" 44' 1.5" for longitude. It contracted the head of the bay \ery much, but hardly more than it really re(iuires ; and as a l)earing of the eastern point of Leopold Island cut very nearly through the position, it cannot be far out. The variation I made 142" ',io' W. 42. We now shoved off on our return, pulled for the head of the bay, and R«;«"f" '<> Dwchey without seeing any cause for further detention, proceeded for Beechey Island. '"'"'" ' Arrived at Gascome Inlet on the 1st of September, took the provisions up, and the next day got on board the ship, which, to my surprise, was lying at anchor in seven fathoms water, a quarter of a mile off shore, and some distance further in towards the head of the bay, all the ice having driven out, leaving clear open water. From Mr. PuUen, the master, I received a report of what had occurred .Sie Enclosure (3 d.) during my absence. 43. In this trip we were hardly on shore less than twice a day, besides the tiuje for bivouacking ; also whenever we could get the chance for tracking along the l)each, sometimes for hours, so that nothing escaped us ; and although the visit to Maxwell Hay has been unsuccessful in the main point, I think it will More circles of stones. suffice to clear up most effectually the conclusions arrived at by some, that the '*"*°™"''' circles of stones found at Cape Riley were placer! by our missing countrymen, but are to all intents and purposes the remains of old Esquimaux encampments. 'i lie first place I saw these remains was a mile or two to the westward of Cape Herschel, where we landed (when going) for (liiiner, or. a clean gravelly beach, with lots of ice piled along at the high water mark, which, after siiniiounting, we got on a slightly elevated terrace, backed up by high cliH's at the depth of eighty yards. On my return the wind, after passing Cape Herschel, came against us, and while the crew were tracking along this beach, I had a good exannnation of these stones, — no less than four circles all of a row, quite similar to those seen at Cape Kiley, and of very ancient date, for they were moss covered, and some deeply imbedded in the ground. Among them, too, I found several vertcbriu and skulls of the white whale and seal. Further to the westward, but on the same beach, washing in with the tide (just then last quarter ebb), I saw the tail of a white whale, which brought immediately to my recollection those pieces of skin picked up off Krelms and Terror Hay, by Sir E. Heklier's boat the evening we were returning from Gascoine Inlet, and which were pronounced to be portions of a white whale. 44. At Cape Hurd I saw the cairn left by former visitors, also Sir Edward ^*p'' *'"'* Belcher's notice ; I left one likewise. Looking round, I came upon no less than three circles of stones, just about the same size and character as all I have before w..r>n hnf nnt nnito so di>)tinirnishab1e. tor I dare sav we should have passed L'casion ; at all events I see no reason to alter the opinions i| & : M hi. . £ I 1- any 3 M no m ill i'.tii m Seircity i>f Animnl Ufa. Dead Tree Fotiiut. Brcakan teen. Wi-alliir. We.iiluT. Kc Drift ice in till' Ha_\. Sail in tight. ' Isahi'T' C'):i.ccturci. I have before expressed as to what they were. I also saw at Cape Hard the marks of a tent, with several tins and a piece of stone l)ottle. 45. Animal lite I cannot say that 1 saw plentiful ; Maxwell Bay itself seemed the most prolific as far as seals went, for they were swimminfj; about in great numbers. There was also a pretty good share of moUymoks. A small flock of geese I saw, making all haste to the southward. Just as we were landing on a small piece of floe ice, we found tiie remains of a freshly killed seal, doubtless the work of Mr. Bruin; traces only of two were seen in the trip. I also got sight of a walrus, the only one 1 have seen in these regions with tiie exception of that on board the "Assistance." 46. Encamping one night at the head of a small bay at tht- west of Cape Herschel, I found well up on the l)€ach the root and stem of a fir tree, bleached and rotten with age. Its extreme length was twenty feet four inches, and circumference above the roots three feet six inches. It afforded us a most com- fortable fire that night ; a piece of it was brought on board. 47. Tracking along the beach to the west of Cape Herschel, and very nearly to the eastern point of the small bay above mentioned, I saw extending from a short distance oft' the beach, for about two miles towards the eastern shore, a narrow belt of breakers. It was nearly low water at the time, with a moderate breeze from S. W. We did not see this going, the water then Ix'ing quite smooth and nearly the top of flood. What I took to be Cape l''elH'ott bore .S. 68" E., which will place me on the spot from where I saw the breakers. 48. The weather during the trip was tine, considering the lateness of the sea- son, with the exception of the one day detained at Gascoine Inlet, by a hard blow from N.X.E., and too much sea for the b:)at. Snow and fog we had occa- sionally, but never prevented our getting on. The mean range of the tliermo- meter was 29 6+ maximum, 43 , minimum '22 \. 49. Mr. M'Cormick had not returned to the ship, and 1 found that the build- ing of the house had progressed rapidly ; l)ut on examining into the remainder of the means for its completion on so large scale as 60 x '.W, found that material was not in sufficient quantity. It was, theretbre, reduced to M) x '25, and the ca' lenter soon had as nmch of it up again as we could accomplish this season; wi jn the stores on shore, with what Mr. Kennedy iiad left were put in, and snugly arranged for the present time. oO. Whilst the carpenter was about the house, the crew were busy on board cr arrnngements, and all were anxiously awaiting the freezing over of or it was such an uncertain time that the dismantling could not be fidly as we knew not whether we may not yet l>e driven out to sea. It was rion that when the ice fully made, to take her 1 short distance' further nal winter berth. winds still held from the quarters between N. and N.W., strong with the b: eticctt my in in for rA. somcti its win I S with occasional heavy falls of -now conqiletely covi'ring the land with garb ; imd up to the 6lh, the thermometer in the open air never lower than 2'2.5 -.< , whilst the sea ranged between 27 and 29; however, there were no signs of its freezing over in the bay, except in the sheltered parts of shallow water, distant from the influence of the sweeping tide, rushing through betwcdi the eastern part of Heechey Island and the main. 'y2. On the morning of the 7th of September the wind was light from K. and K.S.E., with tine clear weather; thermometer 21 in aii, :^1 in water. A loose stream «)f ice, which had evidently been drivintj iqi the Itanow Strait, was lying across the mouth of the bay, and along the southern shores of Heechey Island, sweejnng well into the bay, and passing not very far outside of our anchorage. On this our attention was fixed, when at light o'clock, to o\n- great surprise and delight, a sail was descried in the otting, which, on being announced, ran like wildfire through the ship. All were soon on deck, with, from every tongue, " Where is the craft ?" .53. Various were the conjectures as to who she was, — one thing certain, she was none of our own sipiadron, for she wasconiiiig fVoin a wrong direction, when, — lo and behold ! a long dark murky pendant streamed out ahead, and we saw that she had at all events a steam power in requisition,— at the same time was a brig- antine. She made her number, when, after some little (h-lay, we found in .Marryatt's Signal Mooks iliiit it wis vn, other than th.c " Isiibel," wliich was (it- ting out about the same time as ourselves, for a search in Behring's Straits. As Ill to who could be her commander was a matter of conjecture, for we all knew of Mr. Bcntson's misfortunes bcTorp wc left F-nffland; hut, wearing no pendant hut a smoke one, al] were satisfied that she sailed under no Queen's coiuniissioii; therefore, one other of the private expeditions sent forth by a woman's dcvoted- ness, — which unhappily, like the public ones, have as yet all proved uj/iuccessful in the main cause. 54. At 10 she got in, passed close to, and anchored half a cable's length N.N.E. of us, with our boat, which had been manned in readiness, on board, and soon returning, bringing her commander and sundry packages, when I had the pleasure of welcoming in these regions Connnander Ingleficld. commnnder ingiefleU. Although I had never seen him l)efore, it was a most welcome and dt-lightful occurrence, and I am sure was expressed in the countenance of all onboard, who were on deck to receive the new comers. 65. We were soon brimful of intelligence, and, although not of success in the grand object, certainly of the most pleasing kind, showing again the advantage of steam in these regions, together with what can be done by it, coupled with energy and a good season ; which Captain Ingletield has certainly made the most of. He informed me that he lelt l^ngland on the 10th of July, was towed out, and a good start given him by one of our steamers ; and was at Uppernavik on the '20th of August, having visited Holsteinberg on his way up 56. He passed through Melville Bay without difficulty; had been into Wol- etenholme Sound ; exanu'ned the cairns there ; visited Whale Sound, Smith's Sound, and .lones's Sound ; and examined the coast most satisfactorily and closely, without finding the smallest traces of Franklin. On his return to Noir.ics, England, he should look along the western shores of Baffin's Bay and Davis' Strait; and proving successful in meeting one of the Arctic squadron, should leave tiiis evening ; tlierefore, bcggeil we would get all letters and dispatches ready as soon as possible. 57. "^riiis was the account (^aptain Ingletield gave me ; and although feeling a certain disappointment at his not having been successful in finding traces, yet there was nnich for gratification, that so nmch had been done by one of our own glorious profession, and a brother officer too. He gave me a tracing for Sir E. s.o iratine. Belcher, wherein is marked his track, and everything worthy of notice, which has put a very different feature on the coast-line of the upper part of Baffin's Buy, hitlicrto ajipearing in our charts ; also added greatly to our geographical knowledge, let alone crossing the threshold of further research or discovery. 58. \lr. Abernethy, the well-known ice-master, was with Captain Ingletield, and talking over witii him the subject of the cairn, &c. reported as having been seen in .Jones's Sound, it was soon cleared up. They have been further up that sound than any vessel previous ; and one day, Abernethy being in the crow's nest, reported that he could see a cairn on shore; a boat was innnediately ("urns. di'spatched to an island on the iiortlien shore, 1st of September, when, what had appeared at a distanie like a cairn, on a nearer approach turned out to be nothing more tlian a ])ile or lieap of rocks, thrown together by some natural convulsion, or other unknown cause. .'i9. This, when I come to consider the circumstances alluded to, gives me no reason to alter the opinion 1 formed on reading the letter of Mr. Francis Lee, dated Mth.lune, 18.') I, from which, I should certainly say, the ship was in Lan- caster Sound, entering it from the northward and passing drse along shore; they in the boat saw something similar, and at once pronounced it a cairn. The man from whom the report was taken was in the " Prince Albert," and neither Mr. Kennedy nor any one else put much faith in his veracity at any time. Again, the supposition ol' a coinnuniication by water between .lones's Sound and Baring Bay, which 1 believe arose from this man's story, .Messrs. Stewart and Sutherland have settled; however, Mr. M'Cormiek, the surgeon of this ship, will effectually set it at rest. 1 am nmst anxiously looking for his return, more particularly as it would have been most gratifying to connnunicate to their Lord- ships the result of his search. Mr. Sutherland was with Captain Ingleficld, and expressed surprise that ;m expedition should have been sent to Baring Bay. He considered it entirely useless. 60. I hardly know what to think of the missing ships, for we have now been so frequently baffled in the search, with not even a record found, that I I'cel grcatl>' iiui ned to place faith in wiint was seen on the ice on the banks of New loundland t.' have been them. But the immense piece of ice spoken of, agair. 04 i U 'I if i\ I; It' ^M Ht renders it rather improbable, for I can hardly think such a quantity could get whole 80 far south. It is true, the estimate of size may nave lieen greatly enlarged. Look at it in whatever light you choose, there was a great want of humanity in the parties in not attempting to ascertain the true character; and such as could hardly Ih" expected of a sailor or any one else. 61. Captain Infjletield lias opened out, 1 consider, a much more likely passage to the Pole, or into what is called ti\e Polar Basin, although I cannot say I put much faith in tiie tlicorx . AgMin, if possibly northerly, a l)ctter opening to a OpinioM. route to Bhcring's Straits. Hut I shall ever hold to my opinion, formed in 1849, that it will only be by a southern passage that you will approach the American coast, — M)nie of those jiassages from Lancaster Sound or Haridw Straits, and it nuist be by small vessels, I'or in all cases of Arctic navigation they are nmch better adiipteil : no vessel ought to Ik' of greater draft than eight feet ; they would then keep oH the gnnuid if driving, and rise Iwtter in a nip. 62. All were now l)usy getting letters ready for Kngland ; while the " Isalwl" was preparing for the completion of her further examinaticms and homeward voyage, t'aptain Ingletield was on shore, searching and hmking into the improve- ments of Bcechey Island ; first and foremost among which was Nortluunl)erland House, not yet finished cr'tainly, but when so I hope will Ik.' worthy of its name. Amongst the many things Captain Inglefield offered for our use were two travelling stoves, supplied to him from Woolwich Dockyard, for which the master gave him a receipt ; also some of tiie northern voyages, and a few hydro- graphical instruments. Provisions he also would have given us, but we were so liberally supplied, that I felt we really did not want them. 6.'3. On \Vednesday morning Captain Inglefield completed an unsuccessful search of Bcechey Island ; came on board to say good bye ; and at 2 a.m., all our letters being finished, among whicii there was one for their Lordships, and duplicates of all Sir K. Belcher had IcfV, the originals having gone in the " Allwrt," he wished us good luck, and proceeded to his vessel. Steam la-ing nearly up, he got under weigh, wlien at .'Jh. loni. she made sail to a moderate K.S.E. breeze, and stood out of the bay with l)eautiful clear weather and our hearty good wishes. 64. Again were we once more alone, after a short and so unexpected a visit. It was like a ray of glorious sunshine; and from letters and papers received from our island home, a happy assura>ice that we were not only held ever in remembrance, and earnestly prayed for by fond and loving hearts, but had the anxieties and sympathies of our country with us. 6.'). This is indeed cheering, more particularly so when we still have that liest and powerful help which has hitiierto protected us in the hour of peril and difficulty. It is most merriful in His all-wise dispensation, that we know not yet what is before us, but who can fear or doubt under such a merciful guardianship. 66. Disappointed as I was at the '" Isabel's" short stay, I could not but l)e pleased when she disapjK'ured round ( 'a])e Riley, for the season being so far advanced, I felt that the sooner she was out oi' Lancaster Soimd the better; particularly as they purposed visiting the western shores of Baffin's Bay, &c. It IS true that the season has l)een a very oikmi one, but it is impossible to calculate on the movements of ice, or say when all navigation in these seas will cease for the time. Captain Inglefield was ecpially anxious to get away, as well as about his future proceedings; and injustice, I think, he has done great things. I trust he will get safe home, and meet tiiat appreciation and reward his exertions have well earned. The ice-master, .\i)ernethy, said he had never seen such an open season in the whole course of his expurience ? Mh Sepiemiwr i8«. 6". At 8 A.M., the wcatlier still continuinti tine, with temperature in the air standing i;t -••"» ( ./"id sea yet higii 29, with no ice in llic bay, and wind from L.N.l']., fair for Wellington Channel, I decideil on sending a boat away at once, for the purpose of carrying into execution the completion of Sir K. Belcher's oideis, instead of waiting until the ice made, as I. hail t)riginally intended doing it by sledge. It W(uild also be the means of ascertaining whiit caused the detention of Mr. .M'Coriniek (surgeon), tor I was reallv beginning to feel anxious alniut him. A boat was therefore equipped, not only with provi>*ioi)s for lier crew, but a quantity for deposit; when at tiiree o'clock she Sec Encioture E. sliovcd otf 111 (liaige of Mr. Sliellaliear, the seconr his guidance. The wind being fresh when he left, it Rlh September. •* lubcl* letics fiT England. ReAeciiun>. 113 took the boat smartly up to the narrow pasHuge, between Beechcy Island and the main, and into Union Bay. 68. At 8 P.M. a boat was seen coming i'roni the northward under sail, and Mr. M'Cormitk r*. •hortly after Mr. M'Cormick arrived on board the ship, all well, having commu- '"'"*• nieated with Mr. Slu'Uabcar off (Jape Spencer, and leaving him under all Hail, •teering north with a I'avoiirublc breeze, so that I anticipate his return soon. 69- The doctor's trip iuul been (juitc unsuccessful, l)oth as to finding any "j^^""!' "f Mr. M'Cof- traces, or a conmumiciition with Jones's Sound, through by Baring Bay. in '"'" ""''■ fact he fully confirmed what both Messrs. Stewart and Sutherland had l)cfore stated, that the land is continuous all round ; and further that there is no hope of leading a party by land east^vard from that vicinity. The furthest north Mr. M'Cornnck had been was Point Hogarth, and that by parti}' travelling. He left the shij) on Thursday, and the Monday following reached Baring Bay, having met with nmch detention from the ice ; however, as I had appointed Cape Osl)orne the limit of Mr. Shellabear's journey, I hope to see him back in less ii,pect«tion. than a week, the time I liad calculated on for perfornung the work, and the period for which he was victualled; besides two cases of bread (112lbs.), and two cases of pennnican (74lbH.) for depots. 70. On the 11th a liawk was seen hovering about the ship, and frequently nini. depMting, lub attempted to alight on the topmast heads ; the plumage was a dead white, with Sopiemijor. black spots ; l)efore a gun could be procured the bird was off, in fact following the example shown by all the feathered tribe, who were fast leaving these inhospitable regions. Occasionally we got sight of a few stray burgomasters (yoimg ones), molemoks, and young dovekies, now a pretty speckled black and white plumage. A small seal was seen playing amongst the ice to-day along the beach, the oidy one we have seen for a long time ; however, he soon disap- peared. The last one we saw on the lj)th. 71. Monday l.'itli, Mr. Shellal)ear returneo, iiavingonly partially effected the object for w hich he went, in consequence of the rapid formation of the young ice in the shoal water, extending in many places some distance off shore, as well as the sheltered spots, the particulars of which appear in his journal of proceedings, scc in Enciotur* e. 72. All hands were now on board, n>ucli to my satisfaction; the preparations for winter therefore went on rapidly. The housing was fitted and tried, and the quarter-deck portion kept up, tlierebv kept off u deal of snow which had fallen lately most plentifully. Tiie Sylvester was lighted on the 11th, the first time since it was tried, more for the purpose of giving the ship a thorough drying before the frost made, for all along the side nmch damp appeared to have accumidated. 73. Since the " Isal)el" had left, nmch ice had formed in the bay, together ice in th« boy. with what has driven in with south an. Plan for funher nuch. very little iliaiice of anything e!«capiiig tliat ini^ht at all lead to a certain cliN tor tmckiiig up the niij^sing onus. 77- ()'» the morning of the 1 Ith, us I was pulling for the N.K. comer of the bay, )*u\v on upproiiehing it that, from tlience lowunU Cape ililey, the whole of the shore was lined witii heavy ice, lately driven in hy Houtherly winds, whicb obliged me to steer more for the northern siiore, and along it to reach the desired spot. When t)n the summit of the high laud, a little more easterly than in the middle of the northern shore, overlooking the entrance of the bay, and marked in the chart I'pper ("aim, saw what I took tor two b<'nrs, which on a nearer approach I perceived to be two large stones, or piles of stones, showing very dis- tinctly ii> cimtrast with the snow. 1 thought little of the circumstance at the time, consequently went on to where I wished to land, and walked along the eastern coast towards Ca|)e Hilev, occasionally taking angles tor fixing coasts line, and erecting small piles ot' stones that 1 may recover the spot again if re(juired. Returning and passing over nearly the same groimd, came upon • small pile of stones, with several pieces of well-bleached small line alnrnt it, which 1 considered to Ik- a surveying-station similar to what I had lieen putting up myself, and close to one of tliem. It was turned over and examined most minutely', but nothing further was found. 78. Returning to the ship, we again passed the stones before seen, when, on taking a long look with a telescope, saw that they were, the upper one in f>articular, regular built cairns, but, as it was getting late, I did not visit them, iilly determining on giving them a full and searching investigation to-morrow. 79. Atler breakfast that Hirk wuh coiniiifj nlonff the short's of the hay from the eastward, and perhaps from these lainis. Sfi. In ('ommander PliillipH'sevidenee, where he went to examine the spot, ho •ays : " We ascended a lieight of seven, eiglit, or nine himdred feet, I think, of " almost precipitous eHHs, o\erlookiiig tlie entrance to tlie bay in which, no doubt, " the ' Erebus' and ' Terror' wintered ; examined carefully, but found nothing." He says nothing ab(mt building the cairns up again. 86. Althougli the ascent to these cairns I visited' crv steep, yet I should not call it a cliff. It overlooks the entrance to Erebus .d l>rror Bay certainly, and the upper cairn is 7l<> tcct above the low water mark. They are more than two miles from where the " Felix" must have In-en lying in Union Bay, and about the same distance from the graves. 'Vhv (juestion then is, can this be the hill on which Beck found the tin and pole, and did he build the two cairns ? At all events, I shall sweep the whole of the nortliern shores of the two bays, and endeavour to find the piece of metal. 87. On the 22d, Union Bay was full of ice, having been driven in with the N.W. and northerly winds ; however, it looked all set fast for good, but in very irregular masses ; notwithstanding which, I walked some distance on it. Welling- ton Channel, too, seen from the top of Beechey Island, quite across to the Western shores, and north as far as could be seen, was also closed. 88. The weather latelv has strongly indicated a final close to the season; for w»«th«r. ac. with the thermometer falling, snow covering the ground, and dark and gloomy • weather, keep us all anxiously looking for the ice making, that we might get our winter housing over and everything snug. The month of September, too, was drawing to a close, with a fair prospect of nothing to disturb the plea urable anticipation of a comfortable winter. Still there is a certain anxiety which I cannot entirely get rid off, for of late the south and S.E. winds have brought into the bay some heavy masses of old ice, which was driven on us sometimes with great force, which does not tend to dispel my unfavourable impressions of this place as a winter (]uarters. 89. On the morning of the 25th, the wind was blowing in heavy squalls from N.N.E,, when the ice inside of us, which of late appeared tx) be fast, but not strong enough to bear, was breaking up and clearing out of the bay. At noon it grew moderate, and the sky cleared ; yet the snow was drifting in thick clouds off the high lands. Now outside, a Ime to where we were lying across to the eastern shores of the bay well inside Cape Riley was open, as well as the straits as far as the eye coidd reach ; and having lately meditated on the probability of any casks, iicc. we might set afloat from this ever reaching Baffin's .See Prim«d Eneiomn. Bay and being picked up, I decideil on trying it. One was therefore prepared ; three documents printed on board tlie ship by a private press ; when at one o'clock a boat was sent to the entrance of the bay with the cask and two bottles, Boitif. und c»ik wiih each containing a paper, and they were all connnitted to the deep, with a good p™^'* •">»'«» *«•»•<• fair wind, ebb tide, and clear sea to start with on their voyage. They were soon *'"'^" but of sight, at all events. In the evening the wind was light, and beautifully clear weather, with the stars shining brightly. The wind being N. W., was fair for our small craft. The thermometer at midnight lower than we have yet had it, standing at 14 + . 90. For the next two days pancake ice would form in the bay when calm or the wind was light, but as usual, northerly winds would set it in motion and soon break it up. Noon of the 27th all the eastern part of the bay, and well out to sea was clear of ice ; the winds moderate from E.N.E. temperature of both sea, and air the same, 30 x. At six in the evening the wind was from E.S.E., and large (piantities of ice were seen outside, driving to the westward. At midnight much of it came into the body, and would strike the ship very heavily as it came in contact. 91. Earl v this morning the wind began to veer round to the S.E. occasionally asih Sepumb«r ism. blowing fresh, and the ice increasing both in quantity and weight that was now driving into the bay, making the old ship feel it as it came against her. How- ever at ',) A.M. it moderated, and the ice was apparently stationary ; at 4 the thermometer was 25, barometer 29-36, and the sea still at a high temperature, the glass standing 30 x . At 8 the bay was completely covered with ice, also out to seaward as far as the eye could reach, with heavy hummocky masses, decidedly not of a very recent formation. Until 6 in the evening everything P2 I! ii'i ■ it M J:^ Ui I M Im hmif uti in nw liOQ. Hmtj fit. Gdt incrfwing. Ship driven Ship ukn groiiiiil. AHerwardi inrMured •nd found to be l,'<(Ki fnU iJUte of tide. Ice ea«es off, end ihip rights. ii Depths of wate : ,1 k 1 ; 1 t9th SeptemlMr Contidcrationt. 116 was still, when on the wind hret-zinif up from S.K. by IC, !*ot it again in motion, and piling up in great heaps around us, and so eontinuing until H p.m., when the wind tallnin to a mo(KTate breeze, the iee once more In'oame stationary. The weather at this tim«' iK'ing elear, a moderate breeze, and imrometer |)retty steady, rising since midnight ot'tlie '27tli, I I'elt luider no apprehension, thinking under such circumstances that no gale was brewing ; and judging from t'ormer experience that all this ice would drive out of the bay again with the first northerly wind, and with the thennometer standing so high lioth in air and sea. How soon, thougli, was I deceived, for at 1 ()..'<( » it came on to l)low hard, a gale in a n'.oment (H) from S.K. ; and notwithstanding tlie iee was jjucked up pretty plentifully, and pieces from seven to eight feet thick passing, and crow(in)g on njost ominously, the ship itide scry easily, and there app<'ared no very great strain on the cabK". At I().l5 there came on such a (piicK succession of heavy s(jualls, with lai-ger Ixxlies of ice passing so close on either side, that I really Ix'gan to feel apprehensive for our safety ; the cable stretched tint like an iron bar, the lighter ice lifting on it and parting, whilst tiie heavier stutV doHed in alxmt the bows, adding greatly to the stram, so I expected soon to see it purl. To veer I felt would not 1k> very prudent, as it would give the ice such additional im]H-tus, that we could never laing up again; to let go another anchor I considered to Ik- vtpially fruitless, for the chances were \ery much against its finding the bottom, and as our ground tackle was good and the bottom a stiff white clay or marl, our l)cst chance would be to hold on ; particularlv as the bay was now full, the ice close up to all the shores, so that Its drift might receive some check. However, at Kill. .'iOni. the gali- increased so much that the H.R. was let go; but, a> I anticipated, tlieri' it lay on the white and glistening surface (the moon was shining brightly) as if in mockery of our efforts. We could do no more, all knew we |i;i(i an enemy to contend with that no human efforts could check; we were iiido n powerless. 9-. The anchor was in se\eii fathoms, when at ll tiu' sl)i|) began to drive, and soon shoaled to fbur-and-a-half fatlioms, with tlw ice in motion; but I thought not quite so rapidly, although the wind had no* abated one jot, yet it pressed liea\y on us, and we could do nothing to raise the Auyt, or avertii.g whatever fate awaited us. All the men were on deck without any smnmonn, calmly and silently watching the course of events, and I think all felt we were in the hands of n merciful (Jod, who often U'tiore lias ixtendcd to us Mis pro- tcctitm. At 11.20 that e\eiifful niomeiit arrived, the ship took the ground astern, the ice immediately forcing her heid round to the ^f.l^., as if she had l)een on a pivot under her heel, and ne; r" . over on her lieam ends ; wrenching the rudder, which was choked, into spliiuers about the sheave hole, and l)roaitioii. 9'?. 1 Ih. r)Oni. we now consider it nearly high water, and the tide I ex[x;ct slacking, caused the iee to ease off a little and allowed the ship to rise, so that about midnight she was nearly on an e\tn keel. The well was sounded directly and found all right, the ice-tiuartermasters sounded round the ship, whilst the men hove up the H.B. still lying alongside, and a taut strain on the S.IJ., well out and broad on the beam, or to the southward. The gale had not abated, still 9 in strength with heavy scpialls, and snow. The depth of water close to the ship was as follows: — 13ft. Gin. on starlwiard bow, 11 feet on starlH)ard gangway, and l.'U't. :iin. on starboard (puirter; II feet only on port Ikiw, 12 feet on port gangway, and thi- same on the (piarter. 9f. After the anchors were secured, a (iiiantit_\ of pro\isi()ns was got up, and placed all ready for handing into the boats in the event of our having to leave the ship ; as from the appearance of the weather, it was certain the gale had not yet done, and there was no knowing what might happen. .As the tide fell the ship went over on her port broadsitU- to a liiel of 2').], degrees at low water; we were therefore obliged to get life lines uj), and batten the decks to carry oo our work. 95. .Such a position as this throughout the greatest part of the twenty-four 117 H > conti lie for a Iciiig Arctic 'orwi-.nl to, II' vith^tiinding r \ ; fl, r I ., fonHd'-ntlv "ti iiiyttfll, vu'vfr luiiil If itl>etb»- ble Ut!l-\VC<4t ,4i iiiit we hIi lllil'tll ov H«>(m,*»- I'li'r 1 to hours, with a low temperature, and not i^nllktl^ winter, was certainly no pleasant pros]M'ct !o loot which the men worked with a good will und aim hoping, ill which Iio|H' I cannot nay I was fh c might Ik' to accomplish with our small compleim to get the ship otl". None doubted hut thnt i certainly to Ik- exix-cted, would blow all this ice out of the bay. md | help us, but certiiiii to leave open wafer, and should flu- \ouiig iee imike we could heave ofl", that we could easih uianagv'. l-lveiy preparafiiH therefore l)egun by getting the more weighty |)rovisions up for landing' lighten the ship would be aetuiilly necessary, for the draff of wafer when aHoaf was nth 9in-, ,i»!*t Hfleen inches more than the de('|)est wafer we have yet found under the ship; and tu the fides are now taking off, if will only be at the next pprings that we can ho|K' to move her. iK). All were now busy clearing the holds and getting provisions on deck for »"•> ^v*- landing, when we see clearly the road, for there was so much snow falling, and driving with the heavy continued sipialls, that it was not until nine o'clock, in a lull, that an attempt could l)c made, ( )ne thing in our favour was, that the ice was stationary, and we were a little more (oidy) than a thousand feet from the shore; a party was therefore sent to explore, but returned with such a dis- couraging report, that I consi > otiitottably ilon^ with tlic same wriftlit that I have Mren cif^ht iiirn latHiuring at. I t'crl mull \ III It loiK hoM to ti-t'd thciii, lor now \m- ui-t ticitluT hirdM, Ht-al, iior hc*ar. I SMKmliMurtNii.l.d. Mmm likni to ranwdjr it. woiilii dtroiink riroimmiid in luturf liriHiglit Iroiii Kiigiaiid lor thrir use; and tuclvi- do^!* wouhl not he too nmn\ . i««i. |(H). On thit service we wen* conNtnntly einplove-eijuentlv getting in, that I was often on the jHiint of ninnlng th<' riwk of leaving tnem alongside ; however, it was fortunately eticeted without Iohh or injury, and a document letl with them ; and. considering it tpiite sutiieient, pailicularly as there wan vet a pro- bability ot l)eing driven out, we In-gan on other matters re(|uiring imniecUate 1 Kmp eonditwii uf tilt' attention. The first was the damp state of the ship, tor th«' i»ort fiide, right fore ""* aiiing no cold, that they could not sleen tluring the time they hiid for rest, in fact that nide ol' the deck was barely habitable, so great was the damp. The Sylvester stove hail la-en in ilaily use lately, but from the inclination t)f the shij> to port, no warm air wouhl pass through the tuln-s to that side, consecpu-ntly th* starboard side got it all, showing a difl'erence at least of thirty-six and topmasts were housed to-(la\. lO.S. I icit VI IV anxious to l'o aJKait over the ice to examine into its state, and perhaps be better able to form an opinion on the position we were in. and the likely chances of getting otl" this winter. This 1 could not effect until the :Utth of Se|)tciiilier. and then only by a view from the shori', the ice was in so many places separated by wide fissures, and occasionally blowing in heavv gusts. Accompanied by the master. I got on shore abreast the ship, and walked along thi- eastern shores of Heechey Island, to the northern part of the bay ; and, although we could not see much of its outer t¥)uni^'«ti up int^) hunimnd ioriu< d by the long, low, and narrow eastern point, is a good extent of Min(M)th floe, where we might |>ossii)ly have lain snug; but the difticidty would theti have l>eeu in ;{etting (mt again, against which I had iM-en so<-antionea. BeHidt'H, I am not certain of there iK'ing, even there, sufticient depth of water ; and if my memory iwTveHine riglit, alM)ut that HjK)t the ice was very hununocky when we came into the bay. Proceeding on to the ridge, and looking into Union Bay, to my aNtoiiiHhment found it all clear of ice, wlien it was only a few days ago that I wait valking on it. 104. ( )n the .5th of ( >ctol)er I walked to the sunnnit, and over the top of Beechey Island. From the N.W.purt 1 saw the Wellington (.'hannel was closed up, excepting a few lanes of water here and there; the ice was very huinmocky indeed slabs, as if ready prepared to take their places in the construction of one of those fairy palaces we read of in llu' .Arabian Nights, mixi'd u]) and lying about among a quantity of small stuff, like the chippiiigs and refuse in a stonemason's yard; all caused by the mighty crush. 11.'}. I'roni where these heavy masses comnienced was only a little initside of where we (lro\e from ; and if we had only taken a l)erth in a position suggested as being (piite a safe (me — for instance, two or three ship's lengths inside the line from C'api- Uilcy to Reechey Head — the unfortunate "North Star" would have now been under some of those heavy nnisses on the S.K. shores of the island. The ice inside of where we now are, and at other parts of the bay, althougii heavy enough to ruin a ship, is nothing compared to what it is here; and however unpleasant our present jiosition is, and nniy be throughout the winter, we have much cause to Ik- thankful. We came here with high hoix's, never exjK-cting such an occurrence likels to bifldl us, considering the chief thing to guard against was gi tting too far iti ; and all that we should have to do alter the ice made, would be to cut up to our anchor and pick it up. Kx|X'rience truly is dearly bought. 111. It is very possible that the missing \oyagers nniy ha\e met with a like misha]), probably, too, r)f more serious coiisecpience. At all events, it is u subject of \ i)i-g cuts, oidy partially eflected; W, purchase blocks and stream anchor; B, position of S.I{. anchor; 1)1), toggles for mast-head tackles. 119- Although the ditlercnce in depth of water in the new cut for about rnortMinsiuccssft twelve feet broadside ofl" was but slight, still it was the great object to get clear of the heavy floe-piece; we tliereforc set-to with a will, and hihoured incessantly until tlie ^'Jth (the day of the highest tide); and having only got a little before the t)ow, with the space wc had already opened frozen o\er solid, and nearly as thick as when we began, with loose and large pieces amongst it that had been forced from under the main ice by the tide, was sufficient proof of the inutility of making any further attempts towards getting the ship afloat this season. I therefore gave in, feeling it more iniperati\e on me to do so, as the work in such weather was beginning to tell on th.e men; their feet weie freipieiitly ttinii wet ; and there not beintr sufficient time, from the iieriod of lea\ ing off Ri' work to conuuencing again the next (hy, to dry their single pair of cloth liools, I ordered the second pair to l)e issued ; although none complained, it could bo plainlv seen that many were looking fagged and jaded. The saws were laid I ! I Tlioii:,'lil^ abjiit the pi sitiun. 122 Dsidc, and our st)le iittcntioii was directed to endeavour to keep the ship on on even keel ; for tliis constant rising and falling with the tide, as she hitherto has been doing, would tiooii make licr (juite uninhabitable ; tor, notwithstandinj^ the heat from the small stoves had in the first instance ameliorated the condition, it was now, as the season advanced, found to be yetting as bad as ever. Tlie winter housing we had now all over, having worked at it with four men ut the same time they were sawing outside. 1*20. To keep the ship on an even keel, shoring naturally first occurred to inc, but a moment's rellection told me at once that it would not do here; for, with the ice rising and falling, they would soon be displaced, and down wouhl come the ship, with every probability of never rising again. It then came to my recollection the scores of times, when employed under Captain (now Admiral) Owen in the surve}' of the Bay of Fundy, I had, in the tenders, laid high and dry alongsides of wharves in docks, iVc, without doing just more than give a heel in ; the idea struck me that, could such a thing be built here, it would answer to keep the ship up. One diH'erence was, that we were hu-ge, they were small ; however, I was determined on trying it, for to lie with a heavy list for eight mouths at the least would never dc^, and the greatest dithculty I felt would be getting a solid foundation to build on. supsfor bciicring it. 121. To ofTect all tliis, I first purposed filling the water casks, and placing them a certain distance, say twenty feet from the j)ort side of the ship, and when the contents froze as well as themselves to the ice (by means of poured water), build upon the intervening spjicc until such a weight was accumulated that no tides would float the mass, and finally a wall, against which the ship might lay without the fear of her weight breakuig it down, even if assisted by stormy winds. 122. This work was carried on at the same time as the sawing; every piece of ice taken out was broken up and thrown in on the port side of the ship, nuieh of which fell under the bilge, but was gradually growing up. For the first tide or two, her weight crushed all down, but so slowly that I apprehend no damage has been sustained ; when, being about to get the casks out, found we were gain- ing, and having worked to sucli good purpose, that on the evening of the second day, at low water she was held up two degrees from the extreme heel - 2.')^ degrees), consecpiently I did not consider it necessary now to use the casks. 12.'?. In another way, too, we appeared to have derived benefit from the piling, for by filling the vacant space left by the ship, the ice had acted as a wedge, and somewhat forced her to starboard, for the soundings there were more regular, and a trifle deeper. This was indeed good news, and we went to work with renewed vigoiu', when finally we got her up to oidy /ij degrees of heel by Saturday, the ;i()th OctolH'r. This I considered (piite up enough, and t(H)k no further steps to lessen it ; but a strong breeze coming on the same d.iy gave the wall a good trial. It yielded a little, for she went o\er to \)!, degrees; the piling in consequence was renewed for a time, wher the wind again falling, the ship came back to the 71 degrees. 121. I now h)oke(l up)n the outside work as completed, the ship safe, and certainly in as snug a position as we could possiiily expect imder existing circum- stances ; her condition, too, insi'k' was imprciving. All gear was therefore unro\e (mast head tackles, which had i)ei'n got up in hopes they might possibly lui|) to keep her up, but were never used with any strain), and we were congratulating ourselves on the completion of a most toilsome joi), for this season at any rate. 125. We had been rathi'r prematiu'e in our felicitations, for at low water on the n; )rning of the Sth of Xovcmber, slie was only heeling ."i.|, di'grees. Now, a> nothing had been going on lately, nor had there l)een any northerly winds of sutlieient strength to mfiuence the position in any way, I could only conclude that it wa> caused by the rapid formation of the ice on the }M)rt side ; and ha\ ing no bank on the stariniard side, we might Ite forced over before \\c' were aware of it, with no Iielping ourselves. Thi' men were therefore set to work once more, and to build a wall of ice on the starboard side. 12G. This employed us pretty constantl}' until the afternoon of the third of December, the only interruption liiing caused In the gales and when imshipping the rudder. K\ in with tin wind i)lowing moderately (with the thermometer at so low a teiuperalme) it would drive us on board i ■-■ / . the Uh of No\emi)er from .S. by E. ("), and increasing to (10), continuing thioi.ghout for eiglit-and-foi1y hours, accouij)anied with such heavy gusts that Su.'cess altciul-i us. Outsi'i^' uork ilof.; m n Novculber. IN,".!'. ^ ' iVumatiirr. - liliircd to t^o to work again. il! r : 1 • f'.i'iipUd- Iht' oijtsitii work. 1 1 ..:.. _ .1 ; I .. 1 1 ., it- : .,/• 1 lie llLa\l'.>L gate UllJIllg llll^ lULIt'l NMIIN t.'l>llllllt.'lII.'L'U Oil IIIC L'N (.'Illllg Ut 123 tl I rcfilly apprehended serious conse(iucnccs, with the high tides coming on too. Whiit they would be it was iinpossihle to say ; all we knew was, that we could not help ourselves. Happily, however, the wall on the port side stood firm, and when the gn' moderated we went to work again. This is now the second trial we have had it' the stability of our work. l"iH. On the I'ith of November we got close by the stern post of a depth of neepcst water I'M't. loin., which is the most water we have yet had, and one inch more than phe drew when we left Chatham for Deptford to take in the provisions. So even if we could possibly have got open water, 1 do not think we could have hove off witiiout lightening more. 12(). During the tides in the middle of November, the ice about the stem '"'■ "» '^''' >■"'"•''»■ and rudder worked so much that, notwithstanding the carpenter's representation against cutting it otF where sprung or shattered, I determined to have it done, for it was the only way in which we could imship it ; and one morning, finding that it had l)een raised a couple of inches in the gudgeons, preparations were forthwith commenced by cleanng away the ice about it; we then cut through umWii ihc rmiiitr. the shattered part, and, not without much trouble, finally got it up on the ice. It certainly was a relief to me, for I no more either felt or heard that heavy grinding and surging that had for two days been going on about the stern. 130. It may be asked, why was not the rudder unsliipped before. A sufiicient reason is given, I think, at paragraph 73 ; and to be driven on shore as we were was ne\-er contemplated, when a depth of water sufficient was not to be had. Nevertheless, it was tried on tlic 28th of October, but unsuccessfully ; and raliier than cut it otf, from the carpenter saying that it would add greatly to the time recjuisite to repair it, I let it remain ; but when it began to work so, and if allowed to continue, cause injury, I had no alternative. As it was, it was a heaw job, what with clearing away the ice ; and only the second day coidd we get the second part up and placed on the ice astern. It most certainly was a good job accomplished, for such an immense body must lighten the ship's draft soinewiiat, particularly from the extreme point, and where we want depth. 1.31. What could induce those who Inult it to place such an immense sheave Binicn«ionscriiie in it I cannot imamne: if strenii;th was required (which appears to have been 'i,",'''f ,•""., ,„„v .■ . P . 1 1 • /• • 1 1 ■ " '""'^ kiigtli 'I'M- 4in. the eonsuieration) that rendered it nugatory, tor it was tlierc that it went when lUaiiioiuxk loit. the sliip took the ground. It takes no small hole for a metal sheave of seventeen "!""',',"■' "' '''"^^■""'' inches in diameter and three and a quarter inches thick. A small hole large iiu.kiasA (.r sicvucs, enoiiiih to take the pennant is all that is retiuired, for it is onlv wanted to lift ul"'\. , , , 11 .1 111111 11 i^ii t fi'^nt ol sluavf anu the ; udder out of the gudgeons, the head and heel tackles then do tiie work, pin, ^aii.*. and ]irecious heavy work it was for us, for (juite as much strength, and nearly as niMch time was taken up in unshipping it and getting it across our stern, as in c. It ting a small dock. \:V2. 'i'hiis have we entered on another month, and the last one of 1H52. Our work, I dare say, might have been sooner accomplished but for the many intcr- riiplions by wind. At those times it was so bitter cold that no ■ c could stand it, which, with the sliortness of daylight hours (having lost the an entirely cm the I Ithof November), was not in fa\()ur of the speedy accomplishment of such work as it was; for having broken up all the hiininiocks close about us, we had to make a wider circuit for material for building tiie walls about the ship. However, the third day of this month saw it completed, and so eflfcctually, by takiiig advantage of the tide, that a complete dock is Ibrined. It has been a time of great anxiety, and when she at first crushed the wall on the port side down >() completely, I really began to doubt of our being able to accomplish it cH'eetually ; but now it is such sati>.factioii to think that after the many trials the structure has had l)y lieavy breezes, it has stood up bra\el\ , we may hope for a degree of (|uietness and fri'edom for a spell from anxiety. 133. As tlie last of the November tides drew on, she Iieeled to starboard (me degree, remaining in tliat position so long in sjvte of tlie increast- ol' water under her, that I was getting apprehensive as to \\\v eauoriiO- tinies in the evening it would make an effort, and get up the pipes along the Q2 Dfcvml'LT 1 8 j2. I i-ii 124 m Intcriur orrangcimi-.t*. WiiuK diiriiij; ih.- quarter. A;ilm til an.i InnU 'f. n aiiii <.ii.i;Iit. 'I'cmpc'r.ituii ■, Ai- !t.7;!. side lor a short time. We puzzled our brains as to tlie cause, but could not remedy it tor some time; at last I tliougiit it possible tluit some of the hot-air tubing was damaged, which, without tearing down the easing, could not be ascertained. At length the bulk-liead was taken down, the casing opened, and sure enough there was a delect in the tube, tor at one of the joints it was so open thi't all the heat escaped into the coal-bunkers. This must have been done when the ship fell over on first taking ; however, it was soon put to rights, and all went on fairly again. i:}."). On tlie main deck (our berth deck) a few alterations have been made, which have most decidedly proved verv beneficial. In the bows of the ship evervthing was thickly coated over with ice, and at first efforts were made to shaw it out with the hanging stoves, but it kept the place in such a constant state >f humidity that it was given up, and every week the accumulated stuff scraped off and passed outside. In fact, the sick bay, and that part of the ship forward of a line right across abaft the foremost port, was a complete ice- house. This was sluit out entirely from the men by the erection of a bulk-head across tiie deck, as tar alt as the after part of the galley-range; so that only the fires were seen from abaft. The bins amidships were taken down, and their after bulk-head removed, and placed close to the i'orecomings of the main hatch- way, thus bringing to view all the smoke-funnel of the Sylvester, which ran along under the upper deck to the fore part of' what was the fore hatchway, when it pa>sed up through the deck. 15y this we lost none of the heat from the smoke funnel, where it was reiiuired. The bulk-heads of these bins extended from deck to deck. i:\G. livery superfluous article was banished to the lower deck, where each man was allotted pegs on which to hang his clothes, boots, hats, \c., which he could not put into his chest ; therefore, tlie main deck was free of everything likely to injure health ; plenty of room to walk about, (when exercise could not be taken on deck or outside,) and a free circulation of fresh air. In fact, no ship could be better adapted for w intering in these regions than the " North Star," which I think the state of health of the crew up to this time will fully prove, notwith- standing the trying and hea\y work they have had to go through. Plenty of air, plenty of room to move about in, and keep the principal deck clear, clean, and comfortable, are great objects to be attained. Unfortunately she is not so gt)od for navigating these seas, although as handy a ship under canvas and in narrow waters as any 1 iia\o ever been in ; but when you come to tracking, it is indeed laborious work, with so few hands and her heavy draft. I would then prefer the small crat't. Of both classes we may now fairly speak from downright experience, and with the larger more to come yet ; when I think about it I sometimes fear wc shall liardly a(com])lish what we have yet before us. i;i7- 1 he winds bctweinthe ".iijlh of Decemlar ha\e been between K.S.1'>. and S.S.K. sometime.- blow iiig veiytri>ii; but throiigluiut the whole month from south round by ea>t to wc-t, they iiave been pretty fairly distributed. The preceding montiis, first, Nmember, from S. to .S.K., has been the prevailing ijuartcr, the strongot from S.S.K. >s, I'lom X.W., a day and a half only, and but light. October, N.W". winds for tlic greatest number of days, strength never exceeding 15. The S.S.M. wind was again the strongi'st, but not of long dura- tion ; M was the i'lrce, and lasted only lialf a day. Tiie breeze commenced at S.K. lIowcNcr, it was not a windy monlli. September, the disastrous month, — N.W. we had tlie greatest nuinbcr of days ; but the strongest S.K. and S.S.K. Winds from (luarler between west and south, we got but rarely; however, what we do gi't I think aic local, influenced by the high lands about us. i;5S. Thf first foxes were seen on the 2(!th of October, and one was caught that niglit ; altogether u|> to the end of the year, twenty-three have been taken in trajis, eighteen of which weie males. They were all white with one exce])tion, a blue fox. Of birds since the ice came in, ptarmigan only have been seen, and eight shot by the otlieers. 15y-t he-bye one was killed bv one of the dogs. Theri' is about the i>laii(i, one solitary raven, seen occasionally. 13!). The mean teiniierature for Sepltniber was +:2H.H; maximum 3!..'); miniiuuin I1+. October, mean 13.1 f ; inaxiimmi 29+ ; minimum i)..'). No- vember, mean ."5.12 i , niaximiun lOt ; minimum 21. December, mean 23.7, maxinuim s'-f ; minimum 3(). ! t(L ( 'Itv!**! !n;is i!;!\' o;!sKi'(l ov'.'!* Willi iis (iiiiel !\' and comfortahi** and the new p;i;-se(l year w as ushered in with a inusiciU greeting ; the men parading about the decks, 125 it cxclmnginK the usual compliments. Although we have had neither pla)-s nor nias(iueni(ies to enliven thedull monotony ol'an Arctic winter.yet every oneappcars hai)py and comt'ortahle, and getting on very well together. We certainly have bad enougli to do and think of; ditlerent indeed from the usual employments in winter of former nortiiern voyages. 'J'h.ink (Jod, by His l)lessing, up to the end ciooii iieaith. of this month, umisuid good healtl , has been our share. 141. 'I \) the end of the montli there appears to have been no more in toe ice '«■ Eutlicient to effect the ship's position; more than that, I think she is raised up a little ai)iift, by the ice forming uufjer her counter. At a distance often feet from tile bows, and all round, the ice is prosed up very nmcii, and she lays as if in a complete basin. Several times we have liud to clear away these piles. The Empiojca. first time was on tlie two last days of December, when the thermometer ranged nt the time from 35 to 2!). Tortunately tliere was no wind, and during the two days no one surt'ered ; all fully satisfied that our clothing was enough to resist cioii.ing. euch cold, even greater, which we soon after had an opportunity of trying; for on the rjth and (Jth of January, we were obliged to repeat the work with the thermometer ranging between 49 and 44. In fact, I do not think any one has been seriously frostbitten or even hardly touched. One of the men in the l)eginning of October was persuaded bj soiree knowing fellows tiiat liis cheek was touched, and letting them rub it, thej Jid it so cH'ectually as to take the skin off. 142. Hardly a day has passed but some of the officers have been out and Ksereise. walked at least a mile, and I'rctiuently round the island. The men invariably are sent out on Sunday, weather permitting, and other days when nothing was doing on board. As a proof of the goodness of the clothing and what a man can do in these regicms in winter when well protected, I give one instance. 143. On New Year's Day three of the men, petty officers, went for a walk "^'"''"8 *" Clothing, about ten o'clock; as it was blowing strong at the time, 6 from K.S.E., snow dri\ ing and thermometer varying from 30 to 27, I certainly thought they would not go far; but as they had not returned iiy dinner time, I felt very xmeasy. However, at 12.30 tliey got on board all safe, having walked from the ship along the southern shores of the island to its S.W. point, where they ascended to the sunnnit, (no inconsiderable tug,) passed over the top, and descended again by the gully on the eastern side, and at the back of the graves. I certainly expected some of them would have been frostl)itten ; but no ; the only inconvenience they say they ttlt, was the hard work getting along against the wind. Two had on the sialskin dre>ses, the other only duck over-alls and frock. All had the cloth boot; rather an imwieldy thing to travel in certaiidy, altlumgh all the officers now walk about in them. It is a most comfortable thing I'or standing about in, and we found it particularly so when working on the ice. 144. The school was connnenced on t'"' 30tli of Novend)er, and although we Sci.ooi, &c. ha\enot had a strong nuister of pupils, those attending have improved in reading, writing, and arithmetic. On the Sunday evenings in January, we began reading C'ununing's Apocalyptic LKtures. The first evening tliere were but lew auditcrs; liowever, the next time nearly all the men were present, and certainly seemed deeply interested. IIT). Frost we cannot manage to keep out entirely, and lately we have been I'mst, impiMibic lo- i)bllged to keep the Sylvester stove going all night, causing a greater con>umption *"'■'' "'"' of coals than otherwise would lia\e been re(iuisite. Intact, from the very position in which the slii|) has been placed, we have had more need of fires. The bows inside have always been thickly coated with ice since Oetol)er, the storerooms and lockers likewise, and many ol' the preserved provisions, \c. on opening have been found (piite i'rozen. 14{). Our poor dogs I hardly know how to teed, for when all the bread-dust Hnps iiiffifulty in is gone, (wliicli was tirst given them on the 1st December,) we shall feel at a "^^""° loss what to give next. Hear or seal we have no chance of getting now; and as the\ have already done us good service, I trust we shall not lose them, for they will be invaluable in the work we have before us. On the lOtli of the month the bread-dusl was all gone, and having siu'h a good supply of Hour, I ordered a cask to be opened and a daily issue of half a ])oun(l each ; and as soon as pos- sible to get a cask of whale blubber out of the house (where it lay buried deeply in the snow) for their use. A cask was opened for them before, but they would han!!\ touch it. 147. On the l.")th ol Januarv 1 was enabled to visit Cape lUlev, bv taking vuu to Cpo Riit-y- Q3 i J jj u Work on the icons"'"' Digging for traciH, recorils '^c. Brewing. Opinion on the bctr, Victualling, Sec Sec I^nclosurc, kaIc N.>. I- Sof Knclovurc, sc.ilc Nu. 'J. See Eru'Iofure, Nn. 1' See Knclosure, s>.vle No. :i. Wiiuls lor tlic inontti 126 adviuitnfjc of n calm dny. From its vicinity I liiul n good view of tlic Ice in Harrow Strait. It was greatly piled up, and travelling over it would ht\\v l>een heavy work, .lust on the point, the ice had aceumidated mid risen up to a very great height. The course fioin the ship to the jjoint was very tortuous, — passing round to avoid so nuich hununcH'kv stutf, making the distance (piite one ipiarter more than it really is; however, tin walking was not so had, as the snow was bard packed hy the late gales. 1 IH. On the "Jtth we were imder the necessity of turning out again to work on the ice, lor it had so forced up under the hows that it was (juite necessary to R'niove it. The thermometer was ri>ngii\g from 'M" to 39", hut no one scer.ied to feel the cold. 1 IJ). l'"or sometime I had detennined mi having a most searching examination into every spot on shore at all distnrlx'd, or where i. vould he natural to supiiose traces of any sort might Ik- found or docnments dcpi 'ted, if any left ; not that I for an instant douhted its not having heeii done etiectually by both Captain Austin and Sir Kdward Helcher, but rather that it would Ik- a further satisfac- tion to every oiii' that no endeavour had been neglected to clear up the fate of the two ships. Therefore it was connnenced on this very day, tliv 21th, i)y a party of men in charge of Mr. Alston, mate, and kept constantly at the work, at least when the weather pennitted. l.")(>. The tirst place examined was under the pile of tiis; they were removed and each .-nrefully examined ; when within tlu circmnt'erence of a twelve-feet radius was dug down, I's far a> it was possible to go, without making any discovery but a few fragments of bone, wood, \c., which has all been put together in a box for further inspection. The digging was not particularly hard, for the grounii being pretty well covered with snow, the cold had not so deeply penetrated. 1 ol. Our latter etforts at brewing have been more succissi'ul tlian the rormer, inasmuch that the one is really good, and the other, tliougl' weak, drinkable. Beer I consider a most excellent beverage in these regions ; i.nd I really think the issue, wliieh was continued to the men throughout the hardest time of our work, tended (jiiitc as much to keejiing them in health as anything else. It was but a sinall (piantity, certainly (half-a-pint each man at eleven o'clock), but the real goodness of the stiit!'(Mr. Allsop's nurtmi ale) was such that 1 can -ay it was the best drink of the sort I ever tasted. .Vt first tln' men found it so cold that it fairly made their teeth ache; but on taking oil' the chill they apixared to enjoy it, finding it both invigorating and refri'shing. l.")"2. .\t the end of the year, finding the ]K'ople enjoying such good health, I resolved on making a change in the victualling. .Another reason for doing it was, that at the old rate of issuing three times in the wiek, we should only have enough (preserved meats) t( last fit'teen months, and, considering it probable that we might have to stop r.ut another winter, should fall short. I intended bringing it back to the scale I had establislu'd on the 1st of Sejitember IM.")!?, and which was in use until .Mr. M'Corniick the surgeon's return from Welling- ton Channel. It was then referred to him, and he strongly advised a furtlier incrciisi-, to which I assented, and placed the crew on such a scale, but inteniled only to continue it for a month or so after the men got into a thorough good state. However, when the ship was di-iven on shore, and in such a state for a long tinu'. I again rct't'rred it to Mr. M'Corniick; he objected, and gave nie a letter on the subject ; ncvrrtheless, considering evi'fy circumstance, I held to n>y resolve, but increased the fruit and vegetables, and, instead of the full allowance of corned Iteef, gave only half, making up the weight with jievk and bacon. I.")!?. This month altogether ha- iieen rather win ly ; the heaviest, as usual, f"oni a (piarter iH'tween cast and south. During one gale's eDiitinnance it was never steady at one poin' for one (piarter of the forty-eight hours it lasted. At one tinie it had iiMthmg in it. It commeiiced S.I",. Ir, I",. 1, soon up to (!, then S.Iv 7, I-S.K. H to !»,' i:. bv N. 9, K.S.K. 9, S.lv bV S. 9, S.K. bv K. 9 to lo, S.S.IC. X, S. by K. .-), S.S., i: , and. calm. The gre:iU>t strength '..',' the \.W. winds luis been 7- The tiiermoiiieter during the gale was rang'iig l)et\veen 11° and .'^9" ; nririne barometer, ;}(l" .')7' and -J')' \YX. Snow we have had none, in fact cannot look for it at such a low teni|K'rature. The drift has been very heavv in the gales. Mean temperature ot the thermometer for the month, FAruary 18J.1. Ijt. The month came in with a wind which I think we may fairly say has 127 M it )ld to WilS At I lieu 10, W. T ', in has been the heaviest on us sinre we have been lierc. It commenced S.E. 4 to S.S.K. (), hut (lid not hist h)ng, or prevent oiu" usual walking exercise, particu- larly as clouds were showii;;^ strong indications of the sun not being tar off. Some who were on the top of' Heechey Island reported they had seen him ; how- sunsccn. ever, on the next day, the 2(1, l)eing very fine, the master and myself went up, and sine enougli, just alioxe tlie opposite land of Barrow Strait, appeared the Hun's upper limb : thus, after an ai)sence of eiglity-two days, do we again see the glorious orb of day. Sunday, tlie lOth, was a most beautifid day, with a clear bright sky ; and it was really delightful to have the sun shining upon you again. On seeing tlie golden rays shooting into my cabin, on coming atl from church service, and illumining the shelves so l)egrimed imd l)lack with smoke and dust, that I could not but help feeling what a merciful (Jod was about us, and how thankfal we ought to be for His lx)unties. 15"). The time is now drawing on when I trust we shall be able to f^t to work etlcctually about releasing the ship and getting her once more afloat. This unfortunate occurrence will make a most material difference in the arrimgement I first came to for carrying out the orders of Sir K. Belcher; for at the time the travelling piu'ties ought to be out, all our streni^th and energy would be required iiihuing to spring irn- fot making preparations for clearing away the ice about the ship to open a dock »"""'8>*"=' f<»r heaving her oft" into. I do not expect to Ik* able to work effectually with the saws until May ; but there is so much to be done, lK)th In'fore and after, that we cannot commence too soon ; and if I can send for the despatches it will be (juit< . s nuich as we can reasonably do. 1.5!. It has l)een a thought of long and serious consideration, and as far hack us the early part of December, in talking over with the master the arrangements respecting the spring travelling, that, even were it possible to spare any men from the ship's necessities, four would be (]uite as many as coidd l)e allotted to Mr. M'C'ormick for any further se.irch he might wish to carry on, at the same time accompanied with four dogs would make the party fully e([ual to six men. But as Mr. M'Cormick up to this time has neither funiished me with his journal of the boat expedition to Baring Bay, or any insight into his plans, I conclude that he has nothing more in view. He informed me verbally that he had found no traces ; Baring Bay was continu(ms land ; and that there is no possibility of leading a travelling party through by land from that vicinity to Jones's Sound, uiiatingto travelling. All there is to do, then, is to follow up the line of the " Assistance," which I an see no necessity for. However, that liis energy might not be thrown away or lost, 1 had determined on asking him to take a party on to Point Bcechey, the last rendezvous named in my orders, and look into Inglis Bay. This would be taking him through ground he has already been over; would he quite as much as he could do, and, in all reason, that our means in the present position c(mld accomplish. It would also be necessary to visit Point Phillips : Mr. Shellabear with other four men and dogs I had selected for that service. The 10th of May was the day appointed to be at these places. 15". In making these arrangements, to ensure no detention to the parties from the " Assistance" beyond the day of their arrival at these places, for we do not know but what circumstances mav prevent our getting there at the time named, 1 jnirposed going myself early in NIarch to Point Phillips, the first place named; visit and ascertain the condition of the boat left at Abandon Pay by Mr. Penny, thence to Baillie Hamilton Island No. "2, Diindas Island No. .'?, and Point Becher No. \, then to the ship ; when, if eircmnstanccs would allow, both Mr. M'Cormick and Mr. SlK'Uiibcar might go ofl' for the despatches. 158. At either of the points I visited, I should leave an open notice informing the ollicer from the " Asvi-taiice" with the station at which my despatches would be found, which I purposed to be the extremes — Points Phillips and Becher; idso, tlie position of the ship imperatively requires all our united strength to get her off, and in such a ixisitioii as to be readily attainable when called for; to lea\ e his at Point Phillips if possible, at all events where he should find mine. 1.5!). As I intended taking twelve men and eight dogs, half only to accompany me to the boat, I fully expected to get back to the ship by the end of April at the furthest ; and my reason for tiiking a second jiarty and visiting the boat at Abandon Hay, was, in the e\ent of its being necessary to cross to Bcechey Point by the othcer visiting Point Phillips for ihe despatches, that means might lie got readv if she wa>< not found (it. And it might be :u'tiiiil!y necessary to make one jiarty of lour do all that a large one would have had to peri'orm, had we not been Q4 h liH M li I 128 drivuii oil shoiv, or sdra-sst'iil in gottiiij; olF last sciisoii. Mr. Klliott, the dcrk ill fliariic, was llicMftinv diri'drd to ^ct provisions \i'. iiecfssiiry ready ; other tionswere in iiand ; and on Monday, theTtli, I sent for tlie ollieers to f;et lara then- sleds and men prepared. A party was seleeled tor ine, and ii sled put ireparutioii. Mr. .Vlstoii, mate, was to iiu\e elwir),'e of tlie second sled in with me. Dojti in « b«i >iau'. !()!•. For tile last month or so the dogs have heen f,neally troiihled witli fits, and no one appears to lie ahle to assign a reason. It was ehietiy eiinfhiecJ to those we j^ot at Diseo, all snlleriiif;- more or less, wliiii on the l/th one uiitor- timate hriite died, and two others of the same team seem aluuit to follow : one oftiiese two is the hest of that lot. I'p to the middle of the month those Mr. Kennedy lell appeared to lie tpiite I'ree of any disease, and doing remurkaliiy well, wlien Milbrtiinately threi- have heeii attueked in a like manner, and I really lliink we shall losi' some of them. Digging flni«iie.i. I()l. Oil the :ixtli We had dug over ail those plaees that hud been heforo examined, without tiiuling any record to the direction the missing ships have taken. A few broken tent pegs, bones, pieces of glass, shii\ ings, iVc., was all we got. By the bye, in that place so iinagiiiati\ely designated the garden, and what 1 should say was the site of a tent, was discovered most of the broken tent pegs, also scrajis of brown paper and a solitary piece of tallow candle (mould). The cairn on the top of the island we have not yet found, allliough frequent have been the searches ibr it ; liowever, we have plenty of time before us yet. Training foftriTciiing. 1()2. On the ±\d the flist travelling party were out for training, and they were taken a distance of six miles altogether, with four (K)gs assisting. The load was ulK)ut two-thirds ol what it will be, fully eciuipped. They were f()ur hours about it, which, considering the many stoppages for the dogs to get over their tits, 1 consider was pretty fair for the (irst (lay. We started with five dogs, but one was so bad, that we were soon obliged to let him out. Another, and one of the U'st of Mr. Kennedy's team, had three; but each succeeding one of so short a duration, that on the return he seemed to have got rid of them fully, so 1 think that it is from sheer want of exercise. The next day six were in harness, two of which were soon let out ; but the one of yesterday that had shaken tliein off, went over the same ground and nearly the same ilistance, without the shallow of anything ailing him ; since which we have been sledging oft", both with men and dogs, gravel for the dock, the direction of which hail been already marked out. Hh\. On Sunday, the 27tli, a solitary ptarmigan was seen flying across the bows, and close too. ICI. The weather during the month has been fine, considering the time of \ear, and the temperature at times very mild. On several occasions the thermonieter has been as high as ten above zero ; and from the morning ol' the i;Uh at 8 o'clock, until noon of the Kith, never lielow it. \\ inds during the time from every (jiiarter, but between west and south niucli snow tell at these times. The strongest wind during tlie month has lieeii from the N.K., but iK'tween east and south the prevailing; between north and west a pretty fair share, () the greatest strength, but only for a short time. Winds between west and south more frecjiiently this month than ar.y preceding one. IG."). Aurora horealis \\e have had very little of, — one way in which I think we may account for tlii' mildness of the winter; and I am in Iiopes this forth- coming season will lie an open one. 1()G. The mean temperature of the month was; maximum 11"; minimum 37^; mean 1"' !)■">'• ImprewioM. 167. Thus having l)rought our proceedings up to t!ie end of l''ebruarv, I shall record a few iiiipressioiis which of late have been coiistanliy presenting them- selves to my iiund. I do i'()t give them as decided opinions, inerelv |)i'ol)aliilities, which have arisen from the position In uiiicli we have \»ti\ placed bv ice driving in; and nearlv driveii out to sea, or on siiori' bv ice driviiiLT out. Weilher anil windt for tha month. KiS. Ill paragrajihs <)!, lo:?, and ll;i, I have said anil still believe that had we been lying I'nrtlier out, or driven sooner, the cliances vvi-ri' verv few in favour ot' our esciping vvilhoi;t serious diunages, pcrha])-: wricked. It is probable that sucli a inislia)) in;iv have occurri'd to S'w ,loim I'Vankliii's ship-:; and anv sailor looking at this nlNce the day afti'r we vveix' diiveii in, would ^nv direcllv such was very possi!)le. Tlieiefore he could not have gone further north; but put 129 his ships, perhaps only ship, to rights ns well as it was possible ; pone nit with the intention of poing home, thinking then that it was not necessary to Iciuc any record; got into such a i)aclv as Sir James Hoss did; not so f'oVtimate in bcnig reieasecl, and his disal)le(t sliips or ship witli all met a leart'id fate. We find no traces of such an occurrence here certainly ; neither, I iK'lieve, have we found anything of the " Fury," hut what has landed I'rom her. No records are found here, none in Wellington Channel, as far as former searching parties have been ; it therefore leaves the impression that he has not gone with his ships beyond this spot on a forward movement. For I cannot think Sir J. Franklin would commit such an oversight as to go from here without leaving some account of his doings if ijrocceding. However, if they have gone through the Welliuj^ton Channel,' l^uward Helcher will soon settle it. My opinion in 1850, written at Fort Simpson after niy return from Cape Bathurst, in a concluding remark, was, that there we nuist look for them. 169. Now as to the driving out with the ice, I state what has occurred to us ; Imprcmlons &c. let others more able draw conclusions. I only give my impressions, for a decided opinion I do not pretend to advance on these regions, only considering that we nuist be governed by the circumstances in which we are placed. 170. 'i'wice in the latter part of August last were we driven out, and all by the siulden coming away of the ice, which wc hardly thought would start. Franklin might, as I have before said, have had his ships damiiged, was going on with the repairs, doing his best endeavours to complete before cutting out, when a strong N. or N.W. gale arising, might have driven ice and all out together ; and, if not in a fit condition for sea, might have met with one of tliose sudden occurrences among ice, — met witli mishaps which they had no power of controlling or averting. It is iearfid to tiiink of, l)ut I cannot help such things presenting themselves to my mind. If Adam Heck's piece of lin had on it the I6tli of Sep- tember, 1 816, and as Captain Austin says, that there was evidence to siiow that they left in a hurry, it is not unlikely tliat going out that way may have been the case, and cause of the hurry. I am pretty certain that all the ice in this bay tliat drove us on shore would have gone out again, had tlicre been any strong wind from north iK'fore it set so firmly last along the shores, and the strait out- side became so full. In fact we prepared for it, l)y the advice of the icemen, by laying out warps, that the move might percliance drag us off into the deep water. As it was, even against a strong wind, ( S.S.K., ) the tide alone forced out a large body of ice, leaving a long lane of open water not much more than a quarter of a mile to the eastward of us ; then what would such hummocky stuff' have done if assisted by a strong wind besides? 171. The tide sets from Wellington Channel through Union Bay, and the chan- Tidw, 4e. nel between the island and the main ; thence, and strongest, on nearly a south line througli tliis bay into Barrow Straits. In d' eking, how freciuently, after making the cuts, and labouring ineffectually, assisted with powder too, to get the ice out, have we been obliged to desI.Vc; and, leaving it perhaps for the night, found, on resuming again, that it was either all gone out, or else easily started. This could only be caused by tide, and we considered it so, but whetlier ebb or flood from Wellington Channel I have not yet decided on ; as I have only that and the circumstance mentioned in paragraph 97 to judge from; however, oppor- tunities I fully expect will not be wanting yet. W. J. S. PuLLEN, Conmiander. No. 2. Commander Plllf.n to Mr. Thomas C. Fiu.len, Master, H. M. S. " Nortli Star. II.M.S. "North Star," Bcechey Island, 26th August 1852. Mi:.MouANnrM. As the ship is now within a very short distance of her final berth, and I am about to leave with a boat's crew on detached ser\ ice, you will therefor, uy-c all despatch in preparing her for the winter. All material for constructing a house will be huKied, and as close as possible to the spot pointed out for the erection of the building. ' do not iliink it necessary that the ship should advance further in the bay thaa a (piarter of a cable's length; should therefore any more ice break otl" after having obtained that position, it will be rc(iuisitc to anchor. 11 130 The motcorologiciil journal will bo strictly kept by Mr. 'I'oms, asBistant mirgeoa, and Mr. Sliellaboiir, sicond umstcr, in tlie form whicli bus In-on Hupplicd for that purpoHf, und Mr. SiKlliilH-iir ti) make the t'liir eopits lor transmission Ui Kn^lnnd, Mr. Klliott will make tlie fair copy of the cbromtmeter journal, as 1 take Mr. Alston, mate, away with mc ; Peter Feiiecy, icc-maiter, will take charfec of • watcu. (Signed) W. J. S. I'ullen, Commander. No. 3. Thrown ovcrlxjan?. from H.M.S. "North Star," lying at «ingle anchor in Erebus and Terror Hay, Beechev Island, on the 25th of September 1852. Wind at the time light from north, a N.K. gale having just subsided. Ship not yet housed in, ice not having made, althougli there is much soft sludge in the bay, which !■ driven about constantly by wind and tide. Union Hay closed up with ice. Temperature of the air when this was thrown ovcrlK)ard 2r)..'j. Sea 29- "All well." Should any one pick this up, please forward it to the following address :— On H. M. Service. To the Secretary of the Admiralty, London. Stating in what latitude and longitude it was picked un, with the date, con- dition of the cask, itc. ; in fact, any particular respecting the document. P.S.— Two Iwttles with a similar notice were thrown overbt)ard at the same time Printed at Bcecbcy Island. (Signed) W. J. S, Pullrn, Conunander H.M.S. "North Star." IX. Report of Mr. Piilleii, Master, Her Majcsty'.s Ship " North Star." 1^ ' pp M k No. 1. Mr. T. C. PrLi.EN, Master, to Commander Pi'llen. Her Majesty's Ship " North Star," Erebus and Terror Bay, Sir, Beechev Island, .Septeml)er 2d, 1 6.52. I nK(i leave to report for your information, that on the evening of the 26th ultimo, the day on which you left in the first gig, on tiie searching expedition up Maxwell Ha\', I, at eight o'elot'k p.m., eoniiucncid iieiixing the sliip close up to the Hoe edge, to secure her for the night, when I foinid tlie ice breaking away in all directions ; and altliough I fleeted tlie ice mchnis as far in on tlie Hoe as the whole length of our iiuwsers, tiie ice broke away wlietievera strain came on them. It was lilowing moderately fresh now from N.E. ; Hniling the ship drifting, let go (S.R.) aiidior ill .seven fathoms ; lient (H.H.) chain, and pointed yards to the wind. 'I'owanls moniiiig, the lueeze having fieslKiu'd considerably, at six o'clock let go 1 15.11.) aiichor, its tlie ice was now coining down in large pieces, and occaMoiKilly striking tlie .ship lieavily, luivirg good wav on it with the force of the wind. 'I'owanls noon of the 27tl» it ni!.: eiated, all the loose ice having worked its way out of the bay, and the wind having sliifleil to the N.N.W., gave her more cable. Not bi'iiig able to do this bel'or •, as with the wind at N.E. we were tailing rather elosi' in than 1 liked. At O.i'O p.m. the ice again la-gan to mo\(', and in a very large mass : fortunately there was no wind to give it much way before it reached us ; saw all clear for getting sail on the ship, should we 18t be tom from our anchors. Whrn the \cc first took the ship, it forced her .stem in towanlH th • shore, and hroiidsido to the wind, giving her a couple of strealts li^t to starboard, and both cables with as nuich as they could U'ar; rortmuifely the holding ground was giKMl. I think, U-t'ore we got the whole weight of this iimuensc quiintity, wliieh was extencling o\»'r a couple of miles, a point of .t ti)ok ■omewhert! down by Cape Hiley, and remained stationary. At 10.15 i.m. to our relief it eased ott", passe(l the ship and drifted out of the bay. There was still a large quantity of ice remaining at the head of thi' bay, and nnmd the northern ahore, which all broke away in one mass at '2.',\0 a.m. of the MOth, the whole of which came down and hung across the ship's Ik)ws i"":ain, bringing a tremendoui strain on l)oth cables, which i every moment expected to see part, and the ship driven ashore ; we dragged for the distance of almut half a cable's length, when suddenly a crack took place iii the ice, right ahead of th. ship (ard stretching from the bow, right across the whole width of the "uay \ wvs'iot into the opening like an arrow, and the ship was innnediately relieved from this heavy pressure on her; a large (juantity remained yet hanging on us, which I dispersed with some charges ot powder. The bay now totally clear of all ice, weighed and sighted lN)th anchors, shitted la-rth higher up, a heavy undertaking with our small crew, but the assistant surgeon and clerk in charge gave us their strength at the wind- lass, and fortunately only one man on sick list. Had I not the two anchors down, so small a crew on board the ship, from the two boat exix'ditions away, and u possibility of Iwing hampered by ice outside, and thereby preventing uie from returning to this anchorage, I should have slipped and gone to sea. I remain, Ike. T. C. Pii-LKN, Master. 11 ill . i X. Proceedings of ilie "North Star," 21st March 1853. Sir, No. 1. Commander Pullen to Captain Sir E. Belciieu, C.B. IIepout of Proceedings. H.M.S. "North Star," Bcechey Island, 21st INIarch 1853. 1. In order that you may Ix- fully acipiainted with the proceedings of Her Majesty's Ship under my coinnii'.nd, I forward a copy of my journal, and in proceeding with this letter, beg to reier you to the different paragraphs for full details. 2. (Captain Kellett with his tender, the " Intrepid," lefluson Sunday (-2 p.m.,) after having completed their transfer of stores and coals from this ship. Just on the point of leaving he ga\e me a letter, urging the necessity of \isitiiig Port Leopold, and knowing it to be your wish likewise, I determined on getting the " Mary" yacht ofli' the beaeli, and into this bay for the purpose, and performing that service either on my way to or return from Muxwell Hay. :?. On Monday we commenced cutting dock to get the ship into a secure berth the first thing, and on the same day I told Mr. M'Cormick, the surgeon, that he could go avay on Wednesday, as by that time we should be so iai ad\aiieed, as to Ik" better able to sjiare men, a boat's vww was therefore named and everything in preparation. 4. On Thursday the igth of August, and the same day Mr. M'Cormick left with the whale-boat and a crew of six men, j fully ecjulpped and provisioned for one month,) for Wellington Cha-iiiel. Kvery thing was supplied him that he demanded, and on leaving he expressed satisfaciion at his lit out. I gave hira no orders, onlv furnishinu; h.ini with a sketch of my future r I forward you a copy. 112 isjeeeuiiigs, oi vvuicu ;l; ■• I j! 189 n. Mr. Ktinu'dy on InndiiiR immcdiatfly iiintU' a proposition lor ♦"iirtluTNcnrch, in tlic (lirtrtioii lie liiul ulriiilis 17 to X>. Copiis of tlio lorrc- sptMidi.i'v I also forward. G. .Mr. l.iask, iir-inastir ot'tlir " Prince. MlK-rt," was out in this ship hoforcj tlu' a(Coui\t Ik- pivc of tin- spa the pn>visionj' wire iandid in, ( .\dniiralty Inlet) i«i as follows: -'I'ho provisions an- on t'lC t-asti'm siin tlu- extrenie north jx Int. A heacon was placed on the nortli point. With Wdllaston Island right alirea.^t, and uliout time hundred yards trotn where tiie provisions lie, is an aiiclior and se\enty fathoms ot chain, which the " North Star" was ohliited to slip from in a gale. 7. 'I'lie " I'rince .MlHTt" hronglit over from I'ort Leopold all the letters left there In Sir .lames Uoss's ships, and .Mr. Kennedy is reporting evir\ thing there in such good condition, I deferred my visit to a future period. 'I'hey let' us on the 'J Ith of .\ugust, alter linding a (pumtity of provisions, stores, \c., for cache. I sent liy Mr. Kemiedy all the letters you left, together with copies of the cor- respondence between liim and myself, with every account up to the last moment. H. We were now as far in as I considered it prudent to go for the nresent, ( sec tracing of the bav, ) much of the ice having broken otfand floated out to sea, but relurniitg willi the tide, and as the therniometirgot down, treezing all together, lormiii" with the yoimg ice a compact ImkIv around us. 'I'he ice inside of us was ptill fii-t, without a single crack in it, and thinking that if 1 det'errcfl any longer the trij) to Maxwell Hay, it would be eiilircly previ^nted, 1 determined to get awav as soon as possible. One of the cutters was, therel'ori', provisioiu'd for a month, anil on the 'JOth I started, after handing to the master v ritten instruc- tions for his guidance relative to the . .M\ absence on this tri|» was only a wci'k, the proceedings of which arc fullv detailed in my journal from paragraph 'AS to is iiuhi-ive; but, allhough it was successful in the main objeel, it has closi'd up entirely the hi'ad of the l)ay, nnd fully corroborative of vour opinion on the stone ciieles examined at Cape lliley. 10. I uof back to the shipontlie -'nd i-f Septi'mi)er, and to my surprise found all the ite in the b.ay had deaied out, very nearly, a> the master informed mc, tiikiiiLT the " North Star" with it. A copy of his report I I'orward, (sec enclo- sure. 1). ' Mr. M'Coriiiick had not nlurned, and the house which had been com- nienced just after 1 left, was in a good state of forwardness ; but on linilinu; there was not material sutlicicnt to complete it on so large a scale, we were obliged to reduce it. It is situated on t!ie S.Iv side of the island, shelterid from the cold N. and N.W. winds, and commanding a good vii'w of thi' entrance ot' the bay. The lir>t dimensions were ()0 < 30.; it is now ,'((! ■ J j ; 'Mid in tlu- tid-holo of one of the '* .M'Lellan's" topmasts in the N.W. corner, a record relating to its estaltlishment, vvitii a few coins, were (iejio.^ited. I gave it the name of North- umberland House, in hoii'Uir ot' his (Jraee the lirst Lord of the .Vdmiralty. 1 1. Th'.' ship was now \iiig at anchor in-idr of what I call tlu- first point, in seven I'alhnins of water, m about as good a position as slu- could possibly b(3 until the ice fully made; it was then m\ intention to cut a sliort di.stanee further ill for a final winter berth. 12. On the 7th of S<.pteml«'r, a ipri itity of ice had been driven into the bay witii the K. and IvS.l".. winds, lying ' irectly across its month, and ju.--t outside our ani'liorage, on which, our attention was fixed, \\ lien to our astonishment a sail hove in sight, s^tim -bowing that slu' was possessed of an auxiliary steam power, and finally pro\ iny to ba the '• Isabel." At ten she ani'hortd close to, and our boat which had boarded her on coming in, returned with the captain; when I had the salisl'actioa 'A' vvelcoiijiig in these regions ('oimiiaiider Ingli'lield, jiiiothcr volunteer for Arctic discovery, but under private auspice-. Mr only left I'.nglaiid on tlu loth of .lul\. and has nio-t decidedly maiie good use of his time and an open -eason. WhaK Souml, Smith's Soinid, and Joaes's Sound, with tln' adja- cent coa>ts, he has fully and closely explored; exhibiting all the up|)er |)art of Baffin's Hay in (piite a dilVerent form from what it has iiitherto borne in our chart-. 'I'he '• isiiber' brought out sundry k'lters fi)r the sipiadion, and a Iilw small package- besides for you. The letters 1 forward with the first travelling parrie-. the other articles by the second, so as to meet (air sleds by the lOth of May at I'oiut I'luJIips, should n (thing meauwliilc occur to prevcut it. ii i 13.-) \'.\ ( aptuin InnKlidil Icnviiijf for EiiKland tin- m-xt morning; at .1 a.m., I Ncnt by liim duplicutc copies ot all your drspatcliiM, ut" the Admiralty, a copy ot' wliicli I I'orwanl. In parayraplis M t(> (V.\ an- tiill details ot the time. It. Mr. M'CJormiek not lia\ing yet returned, and (diinideriiig tlie time I had taken in the trip to Maxwell Hay, a distanee ipiite eiiual to what he had to [rt- form, 1 was j^ettinj; ratlur uneasy at his protracted ahsciice, and as there wia •till oiKii water I was determined on anticipating my I'ornur arrangements, which »re ited, when, on the morning of the 1 Ith, pulling across for the I'astern shores of the bay, something on the northern range ot hills was seen, and at first taken for hears. On examination it proved to be two cairns, which I emi)loye(l myself the next eg to refer you to my jounial, k'giiming with piu-agraph 1)1 to 1.38, and which closes the year 1 R52. 24. The first two nionths of IS.')."? do not contain any very great matter, more than the having to work again on the ice, and the thorough searching of Beechey Island, without resulting in any discoveries : and thus I conclude my jouniiU at the end of February. 25. It had long \)ecn a subject of deep consideratiim with me how to send so many parties away as would Ik- necessary to carry out fully your orders, when we should rcijuire all our strength to relea.se the ship from her unfortunate position. As Mr. M'Cormiek had not connnunicated to me anything of his exploration in Wellington Channel, more than a verbal report the evening he returned on Iward, I naturally concluded that he had nothing more in view. However, that his energies might not Ik- lost, I had decided on asking him to lead the party on to I'oint iTecher, and pick up the despatclies there, giving him for the service four men and four dogs, which would make the strength of his party fully equal to eight, sufhcicnt for the purjwse recjuired, anrepur;ition would not reiiuire imnicdiute utteiitinii. i^'roin Mr. >i'('orniiek I requested a copy of his journal of proceedings, aei|uainting him at the same time that I would, if iiossiiile. leave on the lOth of March. 2S. It was not until the Ith instunt that I received this jouniul, with a letter addressed to me re(piesting me to forward it to you. Kneioscd in niv letter waa one for you, which I also forwiird, in which Mr. M'( 'orniiek states there is nothing further for him to do in VVtiiiniiion ( PtMuui, iaii propoxs a search in Smith's and Jones's Sounds, and start directly I return, a proposition inadmissible, 135 ■nd one, I can with tnith say, T would not think of proposing myself: he cannot have considered the thinjr mnturely. I told him plainly that it was impossible in more ways than one, and to convince him how little there was to do in that direction, snowed him the tracing Captain I iigleficld left for you ; and proposed what I had Iwfore thought on, namely— that he should lead a party to Cape Bcchcr ; hut this he would not think of, persisting on my forwarding his plan. His objection leaves Tnc under the necessity of making every effort to make the round, and I have decided on only sending one party, and that a small one, to be at Point Phillips by the 10th of May. 29. On reading over Mr. M'Cormick's journal, I sec that he complains very much of the boat, and her capabilities for the service ; she is old, certainly, but was in good repair, and from my own experience of boat service, I would have {ireferred her to any other we have got ; in fact, she was the one I had fixed on or myself, but as he dcc'dcd on taking her, I was obliged to take a cutter. 30. I intended first leaving on the 10th instant, but strong winds and a low temperature have prevented it effectually, and getting Mr. M'Cormick's journal so late, has entailed more work on me, that I may fully explain to you the impossibilities he has proposed. Of course the survey of the bay I was obliged to give up, as well as other matters when the ship got on shore ; for it required all our united strength to do what wa? requisite for her safety ; however, now I think I have managed to get in sufficient of the outline, &c., as will fully assist in explaining to you, not only what has been done, but what remains yet to be done, with the impossibilitj' of the feasibility of the surgeon's plan. 31. Now for getting the " Mary" off; I nave marked her true position on the chart, of which 1 send you the trace, also the line of smooth floe. Between her and the smooth floe lie heavy masses of grounded ice, ranging from ten to forty feet in thickness, tlirown up in hummocks, in inextricable confusion. To launch a boat of twelve tons over this would be destruction ; to attempt to cut or clear it away is an impossibility with our means, in a reasonable time; and to wait for open water, judging by the difference of what it is now, and when we arrived here, and which was not cleared out abreast of where the " Mary" is lying until the latter end of August, I doubt whether it will go out this year. The ice- men I had there two or three days ago ; their opinion coincided together in every point except the open water ; two said the middle or latter end of July, the third the latter end of August or September. 32. Mr. M'Cormick wishes to go directly I return, and is certain I shall reach your winter quarters. I am not so sure, although I shall make every endeavour to do so ; but as I victual only to the 20th of April, it will depend partly on that, besides other circumstances may occur on our journey. M3' arrangements are to be back to the ship by that time, and although we shall not be able to work with the saws, yet there is so much to be done, that it will not be a bit too soon to commence. I do not think saws will be of service until the temperature stands at 20° or 30°, which will not probably be before May ; this is also the opinion of tlie ice-ciuarteniiasters, when all our strength will be required to keep them going, for the ice about us is not of common tliickness. It is not that alone, but there is the parbuckling and heaving ofl', which before we can do I fully expect to liave to dear the ship out altogether. Mr. M'Cormick, when he (lelivered ills journal, told ine tliat lie did not expect to be able to go unti". al'ter the sliip\va> oil': that time it is impossible to calculate on. As far as I can judge, it will not be he.rorc the end of .July, when it would be late to go away on a three months' Noynge, as lie proposes. 3;i. Our training i'or travelling has htcn getting gravel off for the dock, which we have been employed at since the end of Fcliruary ; its direction I have marked off in the ciiart as far as I can see at i)rc'sent. In tiie early part of March we had sonie heavy breizcs and a low temperature, thermometer down to 4fi°, and not higlier than 10°, for several days, but towards the middle of the month it got up, and on the l/th was as high as 18°, but soim fell again. 31. I enclose luirwitli the rtturn of jHovisioiis, sick report, and documents, as per schedule ; and in conchHion it is but jiisiice to say, that during our trying and arduous work, I rrciivcd ewry assistance i'roni the executive oilicers, and in whose favoiu- 1 cannot speak loo liighly; — working with the men, and showiuL^ ii good example under our .•ilniost insunn.ounta.ble ditMculties; and trials. It is also gratitVing to inc to l)e able to record the services of a civilian, Mr. Elliott, the cleik iii charge, who did his part of the manual labour, which R 4 1' 11' ! ^f ; 136 fell hca\ il y on all, and docs liini great credit. The mnisual good health that we have all enjoyed up to this time, will show the attention of the medical officers to tiieir department ; and for tiic crew I ani but too happy to add that their con(hict has eijualled my most sanguine expectations ; — even when no hope rei\iained of getting otF, they never lost heart, but held on cheerl'ully tiirough all. I have, &c. W. J. S. Pl'i.lkn, Ccnnnandcr. No. 2. Proceedings of y\r. W. B. Siiki.i.aheaii, Second Master, and Travelling Party up the Wellington Channel, 22n(l April to 21st May, ISf^'J. Mr. SuKixAUKAu to Commander Pri.i.EX. In forwarding to you the enclosed copy ot my journal, I have to regret that the state of the ice siiould have prevented me carrying out your wishes more fully. I trust, however, that the steps I have taken may meet your approval. My orders, " To be guided by the intelligence ac(iuircd at Point Phillips," [)laced me in a difficult position, as I found at once that the ice had been found )v you a month previously unsafe for travelling, and getting worse daily, and that it was your mtention " to despatch a party to ('ape Hecher on your return to the ship." Knowing my parly to be the one referred to, I endeavoured to reach that Ca])c by going to tiie eastward of the I>lan(ls, but finding the ice in the state mentioned in my journal, and not being provided with a boat of any sort to secure my retreat, I was compelled reluctantly to return to Cape Phillips, in order to make certain of being at one of the places of rendezvous at the date mentioned in my orders. It gives me great pleasure to be able to represent the continued good conduct of the five men composing the party, to your notice. It was chiefly owing to their care and attention that I was enabled to take the sledge in safety over what has I)een, I believe, a continuation of the worst ice it has ever been the lot of Arctic travellers to encounter. I have, &c. \V. B. SUKI.I.AIIKAII, Second Master, late in charge of a Travelling Party. The Men referred to: — Thomas Cihinstki), Sailmaker's .Mate. Corporal Hknson, Uoyal Marine Artillery. David Hook, A.M. ,I(IHN I)l N( AN, A.B. John I'kost, A.IJ. No. ;?. Acknowu;d(;in(; Receii't or Jorn\Ai.. Commander Pli.i.en >o Mr. W. B. Sin:i.i.AiiE\ii. " North Star," Sir, Beecliey Island, 27lli -May, IR.'i.l. I HAVE to acknowledge the receipt of your journal of ])r()cee(lings on the travelling expedition to Point Phillips, ancar, second master. From II. M.S. " North Star," lying in Erebus and Terror Bay, Bccclicy Island. First Jouuney. Friday, April 22d. — 1 p.m. a working party went on in advance with the wimiN. w. s< sledge, us far as the hummocks in Union Bay. At 3.30 myself and a party of '^"'"'- *• five men left the ship, taking four dogs with us. At 4.15 we overtook the sledge, harnessed the dogs to, and went on over some very hummocky ice. As the Hoc looked better to seaward, I struck out in that direction, and at 5 came to a succession of leads, in which, however, we made but little northing, occa- sionally crossing ridges of heavy hummocks, through which we were obliged to cut a road. From 9 to 1 1 working through hummocks ; soon afterwards it became dusk, and so hazy that I could sec nothing distinctly at any distance, I therefore left the sledge and went ahead to look for a lead. I saw several, but none looking very promising ; and Iwing uncertain which was the best, I encamped at 11.45, thinking we should get through better in the morning, when the haze cleared off. We were now about 8 miles W.N.W. of the low point of wind N.w. i c Beechey Island. W^c found much difficulty in getting the sledge along amongst '^''"- "• the hununocks, but on a smooth floe she went very easily. Fixed the small Hag on a hunmiock, and at midnight fired a rocket. Second Journey. Saturday, April 23d. — Noon, prepared breakfast ; 2, packed sledge, and went to the north to look for a lead, sending two hands inshore for the same purpose. Found one which took us more to the westward, through which we were working till 4 P.M., when J perceived a large floe N.K. of us, about half a mile distant. Cleared a road to it and got the sledge there by 5.30, when we made directly for C!ape Bowden. About 7 crossed the tracks of Conunander's sledges on their outward journey ; they had apparently been going across the channel. Soon afterwards came to Harxey's tracks, Avhich we Ibllowcd as far as the hununocks ; not being able to get through them, went round to the west, taking every lead towards the Cape ; 8, stopped to lunch ; 8.20, went on until eleven, when we came to some very heavy hununocks, (juite impassable for the sledge. On looking round I found we must go more to the westward, but being then not more than 3 or 4 miles from the land, and thinking that the (.'ommander winj. n.w might pass down inshore during the night, I encamped, fi.xing our flag on a ''''""■• "• conspicuous hummock. At midnight fired a rocket. TuniD Joi UNEY. Sunday, April 2 1th. — 2, packed sledge and proceeded to the N.W. After an hour's working through hummocks, we came to a floe, which took us 6 or 7 miles in the direction of Cape Bowden. At 6 cleared a ridge of hummocks and followed the track of Conunander's sledges for some time to the northward, when, coming to a lead, again made inshore. Here I saw the track of Ilervey's sledge, and followed it as far as we could with any degree of safety. At mid- night, seeing that we could get no farther with the sledge, and not being more than five miles from the Cape, I encamped, intending to walk on shore with the dep6t in the morning. Placed the flag on a hummock, and fired a rocket. Fourth Journey. Monday, April 25th. — At 3.30 took with me three men to carry the depot cases, and started for Cape Bowden. Found the ice towards the Cape not nearly so bad as I had expected it to be, as it consisted principally t)f floes. On arriving at the Cape, found that Conunander Pullen had been there on the 23d, and had left for the ship. Buried the depot, lef\ a record of our visit, and returned. 8.30, arrived at the tent, had coffee, and proceeded for Cape l)e Haven, over pretty good floe, with occasional ridges of hununocks. Tuesday, April 2()th. — At 2 a.m. came to a riM(! to tlie .--ledge. -Vs the l)itcli was not t(> be seen, we cor-chided she iia(l '.i-en killed l.y a bear, as there were numerous bears' tracks along the coasi. Went onwards across the bay, and when about half way to the Cape saw a smooth Hoe inshore, and made for it. 8, perceived a cairn with a stiiH'in the centre, on the extreme point. 9, landed, and found j .ipers li'ft there by Com- mander I'lillen, Messrs. Penny and (iood^ir. Lunched, placed a paper in the cairn, ami proceeded for a low point, going clo.se to the shore, in the track of Conunander's sledges. Midnight, encamped four or five miles from the low point. Tkntii Jouunkv. Sunday May 'st. — "> r..M. had i)reakfast. 3, p.ac'Kcd sledge (uid went on. Weather very war'n. 4.30, arrived oil' the low point. Landed, and placed a 139 i)r our ■ic out I saw ((•{•iirctl -eluded iig tlie ipc saw "in the C'om- ■ ill the ark of 10 low TBI- in a small heap of s'lingle. From this point first saw Baillic Hamilton and. 8.30, lunched, 10, observing a mark south of the Cape, S.E. of Cape Phillips, landed and found a whale-boat left by Captain Penny. Near her we found marks of a recent encampment, evidently Commander Pullcn's, and the skull of a young walrus, which, as there was a quantity of flesh about it, made an excellent supper for the dogs. On leaving this bay, it becar-ie foggy with c»im o. . s. snow, and there was a peculiar glare, so that we could not see where wc were treading. Persevered for an hour, however, when the weat!ier getting no better, and the floe worse, I encamped at 1).30 ; the men very tired. W<, were about three miles from Cape Phillips. Eleventh Jodhnev. Monday 2nd. — 1.30. prepared breakfast. 4, proceeded for Cape Phillips. 6, f^»in» o- "• •"• arrived at the Cape and dug up despatches. Found there a note left by Com- mander Pullen, for the officer commanding " Assistance's " party. To this my attention is directed in my orders. The following is an extract ; — " As we have " not l)cen able to get her i the ship ) off yet, it is very probable that no party " from her will be here on the 10th of May. You therefore deposit your " des[)atches, and they shall be sent for as soon as possible. One party will " leave when I return for Cape Decher. They will also have tlie letters brought " over by ' All)ert,' from Port Leopold, as well as a few more papers from " England. Travelling has been heavy, and on the west side dangerous, from " many holes of water, and much rotten ice seen ; of course getting worse " daily." From this I concluded that the only course for me to pursue was to push on to Cape Becher, in order to be there on the 11th; and to go to the eastward of the islands. I then took a hand with me, and went to the top of the iiill, to look at the state of the ice. The weather was so misty that we could p.ot see distinctly more than four or five miles ; to that distance the floe looked level. When we returned, I collected all the clothes that we should not reciuire, now the weather was warmer, placed them in two bags, and buried them witii tlie despatches ; and left a paper, stating that I had gone to Cape Becher, to the eastward of the islands, and that I would rail here on my return for any dcspitches from Sir E. Belcher. We then lunehed, and at 9-30 left the Cape, making direct for the Eastern Cape of Baillie Hamilton Island. Tiie floe was very good for the first four miles; beyond that we came to several ridges of c«im o. o. m. Tnor. hummocks, which increased in size an() number as we neared the island. At * *■ 2.30 encamped seven or eight miles from the eastern extreme of land. Twelfth Jouuney. Tuesday 3'd. — 2 p.m. prepared breakfast, and mended mocassins. 6, packed and jiroceeded onwards for t'.ie Cape. 8.30 came to some very heavy ridges of hummocks. Went along their edge to the eastward, till we came to a snow di it't, of which we took advantage, and crossed them with some difficulty. After p.is>iiig these heavy hunmiocl.s, I was much struck with the difi'erencc in the appeai-ar ce of the ice, from any we had yet seen. Betv.'cen the hummocks, whicli were heavy and numerous, the ice hail the appearance of recently frozen slu'lge, and searcely any snow on it. We contmucd working through the hummocks imtil !).30, when I perceivi^l a black crack ahead, and on coming up to it, (bund it was a recent one. It ran in an E.S.E. and easterly direction from ll\e S.E. part of the island, and was fourteen inches wide. Stopped the sledge to examine it. In tlie spaces where it was sheltered from the sun, the young iee had formed two inches thick, but in the open places I could place a shovel through it. I then took (Irinsted with me, ancl Wi'.lked along the crack tor nearly a mile, when it continued the same breadth, and the ice near it sludg\. To make certain that it was not occasioned by the hummocks grounding, I souiided with a bag of bullets, and found no bottom at twenty-five ialhoms. Taking the state of the iee liere, ii, eoniK'xion with Coimnaniler Pullen's accounts of that on the otlur side the islands, I had no ..oubt that the mIioIc of the ice to the northward was adrift, and that the first stitfsoutherly breeze would drive it olf. Being unpro\ided with a boat of any sort, so that if the ice moved off six feet it would cut off my retreat to Cape Phillips, and probably from the eastern shores too, I came to the conclusion that the only prudent course to adopt was to return to Cape Phillips, from wliencc i if the ice liroke up ) I could take l)oat across, and if not, 1 should bo still at one of the places S2 140 a named in my orders for meeting the " Assistance's "party on the 11th. thought that if Sir K. Uclchcr wintered on the S.W, shore, he would send Wind W.N. W .i o. in. Th«r. « ». Wiiul W.N.W. Tlur. -2. Wiiiil N.W. j 111. n. Norllurly, 1 h. i WiiiJ \.W. 1 1'. TI.IT. 'J. Cnim O b. + IJ. . Tin 1' Whi.nv. •■ TKr. K. W. ;! b. c. V 5. W.S.W. '.li. c. ■1 (). Ill, r..l 11. + i;. Wintirlv, W M. rlv ■lUr. +■ ■I'lu i C. IJ. ■init!.' llv, I b. c. \V,.irrlv, Tl.c. \^ . K. V.'. i b. >-. Tl.ir. + 10. I also a [)arty to Cape rhillipii, rather than cross the channel, though the distance might )C greater. There were numerous recent bears' tracks on each side of the crack. We were now alwut on the parallel of the south extreme of the island, and three or four miles to the eastward of it ; but there l)cing no sun, I could not take bearings. At 10.30 I again returned towards Cape rhillips, keeping on our outward track. Wediiesda)- 4th. — 2 encamped about a mi'c to the southward of our cncanipnicnt of the previous day. TmilTKENTII JorBNKY. 1 I'.M. — Prepared breakfast. .l.IJO, packed sle(3gc, and proceeded for Cape Phillips on our former track. After clearing the hunmiocks, made sail for the first time, and it helped us along nicely. 8.;W, lunched. 10, arrived at Cape I'liillili.-i, and encamped about a hundred yards S.E. of the cairn. Cast the dogs adrift. At Cape Phillips. Thursday .'ith. — Noon, prepared breakfast. Henmined in the tent the greater part of the day mending clothes and mocassins. A great deal of snowdrilt. Friday (hh. — At G a.m. we were roused by hearing the dogs in lull cry, and going outside saw 'hem all after a bear. We were too late for a shot, for, by the time the guns were loaded, he was half a mile off. W*; followed him, how- ever, keeping behind the hummocks as well as we could, for two or three miles, but seeing there was no cliance of getting nearer, and being scantily clothed, Ti-'t lulled, and were at the tent again by nine o'clock, where wc found breakfast ready. The dogs returned soon after. After lunch I went nmnd to the N.W. to liiok for the party. Seeing nothing, I went inshore over the low land, where there were se\ eral tracks of ptarmigan. Returned, at 9 P.M. Silt unlay 7th. — Noon, had breakfast. 6 p.m., walked round to the low land to the southward, where I again saw tracks of ptarmigan and one of a hare. Returned to the tent at «)• The dogs followed us when wc left for a short dist:ince, and then went off to the southward by tliemseUes, and were away nearly twelve hours. When they returned, I tied the bitch up and kept her fast until we left. Sunday f^th. — Noon, cleared tent and swept out. Had breakfast. 2, read prayers. As I was walking about outside 1 saw something black on the ice. On going out to it found it to be an old seal or i'eniale wjilrus and her young one, and there were two more a little to the northwa.'d. Tills hole apne-ared to have been opened by a lx;ar. After lunch, I walked round to the N.W. to look for the party. ^Ioll(^ly 0. — Noon, breakfasted. Did not go far away from the tent to-day owing to the weather. Towards midnight it cleared up, but there wr.s still some drift. Tuesday lOth. — After breakfast walked inshore to the southward to look for game. In the e\eniiig went round to the N.\\'. for three or four miks to look i'or the party. It was misty to the N.W., tlioiij;li clear in e\ery other direction, and we could sei nothing. Ueturning along the land I shot a brace of ptarmigan. Arrived at the lent 11 r.M. WediHsday 11th. — Noon, had breakfast. In the evening went round to the N.^^'. to look i'or the party. Could see but a short distance owing to the mist and drift. Thursday 12th. — After breakfast walked inshore to the southward. About two miles iVom the beach we saw four reindeer lying on the face of a hill. One of them was a last year's fawn. We endeavoured to double on them, but owing to their jiosition could not keep out of their sight, and they made off when I was four or tive hundred yards from them. I fired three or four shots witli the Millie ritie with the ti\e hundred yard sight without effecv. We I'ollowed them for a mile or two, but, getting no nearer, returned to the tent. After lunch, walked inshore to the toj) of the hill N.W. of Cape Phillips. Had again a bad view, hut as far as we could see (ten or twelve miles) there was no apjK'aruncc (.>f aii\ j).iit\', and the iee looked (inn to the wistward. b c:> in^iiiL iniitiTiiCii, rciTiuH iCil .i:> iiiut 111111^, \fiii i:\ tent. Alter luuch ijcnt two hands round to the N.W. to look for the party. 141 Satarday 14th. — After brcakftiHt, went to look for the rlccr, but saw nothing N.w.4b.o. of them, iuthoujj[h it appeared from tracks that they had visited the place since © K"e«mpmn>i, R. T wc were here before. Afterwards walked round to the N.W. to look for tlie party. iBmi.^V'^wyE!' '' Sunday 15th. — Noon, breakfasted. After lunch, went with two hands to ^,- '!•''"•"•*?",''' ^■ the N.W. beyond the two bluff capes. At a distance of alnnit six miles from ' ''"""•'■ '^'^ the tent we came to a sloping point, from the high land behind which wc had a w.n.w. «<.• good view of the channel. I could sec the land to the N.K. and Haring and Stewart Islands to the westward. The last appeared much more to the east- ward than it is laid down in the chart. There was a bluff cape about a mile to the westward ; Iwyond, the coast trended apparently to the S.W., Ibrming a deep bay. Nothing was seen of any party. The ice looked firm as lar as we could sec. Monday l6th. — Returned to the c at 1..30, having shot a ptarmigan on the low land. Had supper, nud made 1 .lown that t should leave for the ship in the evening. FlIlST JoLRNEV, ReTURNINQ. 4 P.M. — Breakfasted. Placed the papers, &c. I had with mc in the emp*j depot case, and buried them with the despatches, leaving a paper stating that I had been waiting here from the 4th to the I6th for the purp<..^e of conmmni- cating with Sir K. Belcher's party. Packed the sledge, and at 5..'K), alter a good look round to the northward, left the cape, going along inshore. At 7.45 landed in Abandon Bay, and began to clear out the boat to examine her con- dition. We had nearly cleared her when we found a cylinder of papers, one left by Connnandor PuUen, and the remainder by Captain Penny. Tlie former stated that the boat had been already examined by him ; I therei'orc placed the things iu her again and buried her up. At 9-30, went on for Cape De Haven. 11.30, lunched. Tuesday 17th. — 2.30 a.m., encamped near our former encampment of the Ist wimi ,aiiaM«& iigiit and -Jd. SixoND Journey, Returning. 4 ^.^r. — Packed sledge, and proceeded along the coast for Captain Penny's cairn. Round Cape Manning the travelling was very heavy, owing to tiie softness of the snow between the lunnmoeks. At a quarter to seven, on looking at the chronometer, I found it had stopped, but from what cause I could not imagine, as it had not run down and the case was not cold. It went on again direttly I gave it a turn. As it was going before we entered the lunnmoeks, it could not have stopped more than half an hour. 9-30, lunched. Went on ibr Cape De Haven. 11.30, arrived at the cape, and encamped on the floe. Went on Bhore and dug out depot. Tiuun Journey, Rktukninq. Wednesday 13th. — 1 p.m., breakfasted. Took an account of the provisions remaining, intending to leave as much as possible at this depot, in tlie event of anotlicr party being (K'spatched in this direction. I refilled the bread case, and left in addition one depot ease containing: — Biscuit, 25ll)s. ; bacon, Gjlbs. ; chocolate paste, two lib. tins ; sugar for ditto, five paper parcels of 1.'^ oz. each ; potatoes, one bag containing libs. '2oz. ; tea and sugar, mixed, five parcels. N. Westerly, !. 5.45. ii.in. i mile N.W. C. Mnii- iiin;;; C i'liillips n. :1,',° 5' Low Point, II. 47° !!«■■. W.! C. B-«- iliMi, s. m^ 'j'2' V. Oslicini. 11. 6;)' 41' t. \\ incl Soutlicrly, 2 m.s. containing each, tea l^oz. •2.',oz. ; bau agar 'J:/t7..; m a uag. peninuean 14ll)s. ; suit, one case of '2lbs. ; and a tin eontalning 12lbs. of fat for fuel. Buried the depot, and left a paper. At "j.^O, went on to the S.S.E. Tor about three miles the travelling was very heav}-; the snow belween the hunnuocks being so soft we s.uik to the knee at nearly every step. About 7-30, however, we came to a fine lead, which we contliuied in all day. Occasionally we e.-.:'.>c to a narrow ridge of lunnmoeks, but had not unieh difliculty in getting through. No land was seen duri.ig the latter part ol" the journey, but by walking 1 ead to wind, and being guided b\' the lunnmoeks, we made a pretty straight couiaC. Thur.silay 19th. — 2 a.m. laicamped. Fourth Jolunev, Rictuuning. 4 P.M. — Prepared breakfast .'),.30. Went on direct for Cape Spencer. Floe geneniliy good, but obstructed oeeasionally by ridges of huiniiioei. c. li.iiO. u.m i ■' i ■: ! ■\l 149 II 3 .hnMmpuKiit, C. Oiborn, n. D" E. i T»til« Clip,, I.. Ill' ii' E. t Smaliiliitn, II. 5(1° •»' K. I C. Howdvn, n. 6(H 41/ K. i I'. 8p»iiofr, «. :i'.i' in' |;.( Ii. i\ iivtchty Uliind, i. 46°47'K. If. lloth.m. f. SU" 4S' W. Calm o. t.9 p.m. Q Kncwnpinent, C. llolh«ni,<. li^'iti' W.i Suit UN lli'uchrjr li- laod, >. 30" It;' i:. I Low I'oint, n. .'18' 1:1' E.i C. Bowilin, II. lj° S4' K, i Ki. riglit, n. 130 8:I'K. i i:i. left, II. Fifth Joi'RNRy, Returning. 4 P.M. — Packed lOcdgc and proceeded for Cape Spencer. For the first two miles, tru veiling over the old floe between the huniniocks. ()n lea\'ing this floe we came to some heavy rlugcs; after crossing them came to a large ncK, which appeared to extend as far south as Point Innis, and as far to the westward as 1 could sec. Saturday 2lst. — 0.30., encamped alxnit three miles N.N.W. from Point Innis. Sixth Jouknkv, Rk.ti'k.nino. No. in. — Prepared breakfast. 2, packed sledge, and proceeded for Point Innis. 3.'M), landed there afU'r some difficulty, and went along the shore towards Cape S|)eneer. About 5, cleared all the hummocks, and lunched. 6..30, rounded the spit, and arrived alongside at 7, when I found " Furv" had arrived the day after we had lost her. Remauks. The travelling throughout was heavy, hut nuich of the difficulty I exjurionccd on my outward jouniey might have iK'en avoided by taking the same route I did returning — that is, a straight course to Cape De Haven. I was principally kept from doing so by a desire to avoid the hununoeky old Hoe oft Capi' Bowdcn, which Icwked very formidable, but I found returning that the travelling over it was very good. The dogs were of little use amongst huiiunocks, but on ii Hoe two were about equal to one man. We had not much provisions tor them, so were obliged to give them some of our penimican. They had about three-tjuarters of a pound each daily, when we could iftbrd it. The scale of victualling was very lilK-ral, and gave great satisfaction. Owing to the dogs we were short of peminicar. wlicii we ivtunud to Cape De Haven. To make up for it 1 took instead seven tins of soup, two of which were returned. The following is a list of Provisions now encaehe at Cape De Ibueii : — Pennnican - 1 case, and 14 lbs. of currants. Hiscuit 1 cast> of .")(') lbs. Soup [G tins of Forttmin and Mason's. \'2 lib. tins of giiivy. Salt - - 3lbs., 1 full case, and 1 ullage. In a potato case soldered up : — Biscuit - 25lbs. Hacon - - 6 lbs. 4 oz. Chocolate ■J l)s. in two 1 lb. tins. Sugar for ( litto - - 6. oz. in five parcels. Potatoes - . 4" bs. 2 oz. in a bag. Tea - Sugar . - . . 61 - Ii :i '■ [mixed, in five parcels. In a tin soldered up: — Fat for fuel - - - 12 lbs. (Signed) W. H. SHi-.i.L.\nEAU, Second Master No. 5. Proceedings of "North Star" up to 21tli August, 1S5:!, and particulars of the melancliuly Loss of Lieutenant Billot, ot tin.- Frendi Iiii|ieria] Xavy, and evidence ol'tlie men. UePOUT of I'RorKF.DI.NfiS. Commander Pl-m.kn to Cuptain Sir E. Rrn.niKu, C.B. II. M.S. " North Star," ]5eechey Island, Sir, Augiist 21, 18,">;3. I. Commander Inglefield having vesteniay iiifornied me lliat it is; his intention to leave us soon as the despatchr^ can ]K)^silil\ 1k' got reads', 1 hasten to close my proceedings in a condensed form up to this thy, IbrwaVding to their Lord- ,!.:„-. .. i' __ 31111.13 it *-^i'j '^1 LI'*-' lu^i uur \iiLii .111 ui'spaU'iHs ivei'iveu, and every document likely to advance the service in which we are engaged. 143 2. I forwarded on the 12th instant, by Lieutenant BeilAt, the French otiiccr of the " Phnpnix," who had vohmtriTcd to conduct a party with despatches oa to voiir ship, full accounts of my ])r(K'cedings since leaving you ; but unhappily, and which it is my melancholy duty to inform you, in the execution of which, by II sudden and unforesivn disruption of the ice in Wellington Channel, he has lost his life. The four men who accompanied him returned to the ship, two on the 2()th imd the remaining two on the 2 1st, worn out with fatigue and exhaustion. Their depositions were immediately taken, a copy ( f which I enclose, oidy remarking that up to this time and during their trying work they have done their duty well, and speak of Lieutenant BellAt, although of a different nation, as an officer that they would gladly follow as their leader. All here felt his loss most acutely; he was well known to us when in the " I'rince Albert," and I consider it a most fortunate thing his volunteerirg to lead the party ; for the only officer I had was away with Captain Inglefield, niyscU' and Mr. Shellal)ear only having returned the previous night. I gave him no orders, merely a letter of remarks for his guidance (see Knclosuie), considering his experience sufficient under any circum- stances. 1 therefore teel his loss most paintully, for he w.is u good and worthy yoimg man, a credit to his profession, and although a foreigner, has shown such zciil and energy in the cause we are engaged in, that I should feel myself honoured in being associated with him in any way. []. On the 21st inst., at ten minutes after midnight, the ice in the bay began to drive out at a rapid rate,, taking us with it; the inshore piece, however, happily received a check by which wc lield on, and have since maintained our position off Northumberland House. The " I'hopnix" and transport were also observed setting out of the 'lay and off from Cape Ililoy, where they had l)een discharging provisions ; the wind at the time was light from the eastward. At 2.15 A.M. of that morning both vessels got so far to the westward, and outside Beechey Island, that we lost sight of them from our I'eck. At 3.30 the steamer alone was seen again coming to the eastward under steam, but was soon checked by a large floe-piece. I therefore concluded she had left the transport in a safe position, perhaps in Union Bay, which was clear. At noon she signalized " Transport is lost," and we could sec from our masthead that the steamer herself was coniplete'y surrounded with heavy ice, and their saws at work as if endea- vouring to cut a dock. In the evening the ice cased off, when she reached Cape Riley, took up a position, and commenced discharging. The next morning the ice still opening, enabled her to reach the fast ice in this bay (wind northerly at the time). 4. I have discharged all my crew who wished to leave, also those unfit for Arctic service, togetlier with Mr. .MH'onuick, surgeon, and Alston, mate, who were desirous of returning to England. T). An officer and two men were st'iit, on the return of the first two men, to relieve the others and also examine the state of the ice in Wellington Channel, &c., to see if it was practical)le by boat or otherwise to communicate with you — look-outs also from the top of the island have been kept ; and such is their reports that not only myself but Captain Inglefield consider it imprudent to detach any more parties to endeavour to communicate. 6. I ha\e accpiaiiited Conimatuler Inglefield with all your orders, wishes, and intentions, taking from liiiii every available article of provision, tivc. for travelling he '-oiild spare, and necessary for the expedition under your command. 7 Krom the long contimuiiu'e of li. and S.K. winds packing the ic? so much to the westward and on tiiese slioris, that I fear the " Intrepid" will be very late, if able to reach at all. I (aniuit \enture an opinion on the season at present, merely noting that it is a late one, and ver)- different from last year. I confi- dently expect, and am prepared for, being driven out of this the first strong N.W. wind ; however, I hope to be able to return again, even if so, prior to your arrival ; and considering all these eircuinstances, — a ship being here from Lngland, the lateness of the season, \:c., your opinion respecting this as a winter quarters C(>inei(ling wilii my own from actual experience, — I shall, if you are not here by the 1st of September, if jH)ssible remove to Gascoine Inlet. 8. I herewith enclose the copy of a notice set adrift on the 1st of August, and in conclusion regret to say, that lia\ ing only so lately returned from travelling, and time being so short, I am iiiia!)le at present to forward a separate leport as A .1 rciiucbieu oy you rel itnu tw tliv -IraiiiJiiig and recovery of the ship, SI y:' ' m I .114 9. TliriL' of the imnonhi- Iiitc Lieiitcimnt IliHot's parfylmvc nlsocxchanKod into till- " IMinMiix," so that wi- havo now almost a new ship's coiniJun y. I faniuit wondrr at so many li-avlni!; ; tor thi sfvort' ;mil hi'a\y work that has iailrii to tlu-m, lioui the position in wliieli tin- shin was unlortunati'ly placctl, and the actual necessity «)t' bein^ olilij^etl to keep tliem so continuously at it, induces me to think tliat, if I may so say it, they are cowed, and (head the thouj;hts of another winter. Had it not U-en for the ^ood example shown liy the execu- tive olliiers, I hardly think we should have kept them ui) to the mark. I eaimot refrain from hriiis^in;^ to your faNourahle notice Mr. Klliott, the clerk in chari;e, whose duties, from every document comiectcd with the expedition, passmg throuifh this sliip. and having? to Ik- co]>ied, have not only been liea\y, hut so continuous, that he has U-cn most unremittingly einploycil. I haw, Sec. W. J. S. Pri.i.KN, Conuuander. Document (copy) set adrift thischiy enclosed report from Wellinj^ton Cliannel, just received (noon) from the sinnnnt of Heechey Island, is favourable to tlic speed V arrival of Sir K. Iklcln i and liis ships. W. J. S. P. Set iitloat tVom H.M.S. " Xorth Star" lyini; in Krebus and Terror Rav, Beechev Island, on the 1st of August IH.'MJ: — The ice otdy opened out sufficiently this* day. The " North Star" wa< driven on sliDre by ice and a lieavy S.E. mile last Scptcml)er, and onl\ ijot off attain on the .SOth .)une, by ciittinj;, lilastmij, and clearinjf a space in ihe ice to heave her into. No intelligence yet of Sir K. Belcher in the Wcllinf^ton Channel. The "Resolute" and her tender the •' Intrepid" arc at Dealy isle, Mi'lville Island ; a party arri\i-d iiere from the former on the 'MMh M\ la-t with the inteliiitenc^of the " Investif^ator" being in Mercy Bay, Barini^ Island, Hi" miles fnmi tlu- " Hesolute's" uresent winter quarters. Baring Island is newly discovered land, a continuation of naiiks's Land. The " Investitratt>r" has Wen there since SeptemiKT H.")l ; if not able to get through into Barrow Straits thi'-. season she is ti) In- a!)an(h)Med, and all iiands come on to " Itesolnte." A party is now away from the ship on another \isit to Cape Becher for intelligence. .\ny person picking this up, it is reijui'sti'd it may be forwarded to the Secretary of the Admiralty, Lon(h)n, with the (hitc when, and where found. — " .Ml well." (Signed) W. .1. S. Bii.i.kn, Commander. Another cask was set adrift with this; and last September, one with two bottles, each containing a notice. Conuuander 1'li.i.k.n to Lieutenant Bki.i.ot. Her Maiestv's Ship " Nortii Star," Dear Sir, l'2t\\ August is.-):?. YoL' liaving so gallantly \'ohmteer('d to lead the party I propose x'uding on to Captain Sir K. Belcher, I gladly avail myself of the oH'er; and as lime is short and of consepot in which you will find the " Assistance ;" and Point II>)garth being a principal point of rendezvous, make for it as speedily as jjossible, ke('i)ing ;is nmeh as you can the eastern shores on board, as I know it is Sir Kdward's intention to travel this way if he cannot get on with the .ship; it is therefore uncertain wlun he will lea\c. There is nothing within a reasonable distance of the shore to prevent a light sledge getting on ; keep a sharp look-out, and I hardly think he can pass you. You have one of llaikett's large boats, I have tln'refore no fear for your success, for the ice is still heavy in Wellington Cliiuuiel, and I hardly think it will breals Dili this nionth ; at all events, >lii)ulil you .^ee any signs to suppose such likely to happen, make for the shore, and use your own discretion as to udsaiice or retreat. The boat will track will inslioi'c. Ca|)tain Iiiglefield, it is p()s>ilile, may cross you, but it can be only well to the northward; howe\er, Khoiild such be the ease, I advise your going on together, mure especially should he lia\c hi- large boat. Provisions are encaelie at I'oint Bowdcn and Point I!e.sc\ie, but I trust you will reach the " Assistance" before you arc out, and she will beapi)roaching you. I. 145 Pray show this to lM)fh Sir F.dwnrd and Ciiptuin Inglcfidd. Wishing you God ■pci'd and every siiccesH, I retnnin, Ac. To Lieutenant BellAt. W. J, S. Plllen. ExTiiACT from Sir E. Helchcr's orders. It h prolmhlc that the " A^isifitunce" will l)eator near Cupe Rcehcr during the month of August, tlierefore uny despateiies wliich may arrive are to l)e forwarded to meet tlie ship by tiie east side of tiie Wellington Channel, calling at Point Hogarth, which will he a prineinal rendezvous ; at all events, as the distanee on the present position where the snip may l)c ieehound, is not more than four days, cnsy march, the officer tihould Ik.- instructed and provisioned to move on, and connnunicate with me. Indeed this duty nuist l)e nnperative, as the final (leter- niination of my movements nmst depend on the co-operation of the external division, should it he found necessary to abandon the vessel next season. I led the ships well to the eastward of Dundas Isle, and the ice breaking away fast, therelore I think you will meet them well advanced towards us. W , J. S. PUI,I.EN. Statemknt of William Hahvkv, Boatswain's Mate H.M.S. "North Star." Lkj-t the ship on Friday night, 12th August 1853, and encamped about three miles from Cape Innis. Second Journey. — Encamped alM)ut three miles this side of Cape Bowdcn on broke'i ice. Third Jc\irney. — Alter leaving Cape Bowdcn on Sunday night, we passed a creek alraut four feet wide miming across the channel ; we were then about three miles oft' shore. Atter crossing this creek kept on up channel. On Ix-'ing asked as to the state of the ice, replied no doubts Avcrc entertained as to their safety, and Mr. Bellot expressed a wish to get up to a cape which he said was Grinnell, cheering on the men, saying he wished to get inshore to encamp, assisting with his track Ml himself. On arriving at the open water off Cape (irinnell (query), Mr. Bell6t tried twice to land in the India-nd)ber boat, but in consecjuence of a strong breeze from the S.E. could not succeed. William Harvey, boatswain's mate, and William Madden, A.B., then both got into the boat and reached the shore, taking a line with them for a hauling line each way. By this means three loads were landed from the sledge, and the men on the ice were hauling the boat oft' a fourth time when Madden, who was up to his middle in the water with the hauling line in his hand, hailed Mr. Bellot to say the ice was on the move, driving up and oft' shore. Mr. Bellot told him to let go the line, which he did ; those remaining on the ice with Mr. Bellot then ran the boat up to windward on the sledge, but the ice being so fast in motion that, before they could reach the wished-for point, it had drifted ccnisiderably oft" the shore. I now went (m the high land to watch, and saw them drifting up the channel and oft' the land. I watched in tiiis position for six hours, but lost sight of them after two hours. When I last saw tiicm the men were standing by the sledge, and Mr. Bellot on tlie top of a hummock. They appeared to be on good solid ice — wind at the time from S.E., blowing hard and snowing. After waiting for six hours, commenced 01 r return (all open water in the channel at this time), walked round (Jriffin Bay with a little provisions, and reached Cape Bowdcn, where we remained fo take some rest. We had not been there long when Madden called me and said two men were coim'ng. I jumped up immediately and hailed them, asking where Mr. Bellot was; they replied that he was gone. On coming up to us llook said Mr. Bellot was drowned. I asked him if he was sure he was. He said he was almost sure, becinisc he saw his stick in the water, and could not see him ; after this we made the best of our way or board, leaving them there. Q. A. Q. A. William MAnniix, A.B., corroborates the above. Did you think tlie ice was dangerous? I certainly did, Sir. ear of breaking through or breaking ofT the land ? Yes Why; for Both, Sir. Q. Did \ou mention your fears to anv one ? A. No, Sir. Hi lil 116 [lie uIro Htatc!) that thcv muitt Imvc Ik-cii dril'tcd buck, und got on shore uctf the Muiiie place as the ii'Tiufnt happened.] St'ATKMiiNT of William Joiinron, A.U., who wuh on the ice with Lieut. liellAt. Wk n<)t tlie provi.'^ioiis on Mhore on W'liliiesdny ( l"lli) ; utter we had di)ne that, tliere n luuiiied on tlie iee David lloolv, A.IJ., f .ieutenaiit Ueiiot, and myself, having with us the i«led, nmeintosii awning, and little lioat; eoinnieneed trying to draw the liont and xlcd to tiie southwarcl, but foiitKl the ie(* driving >o fast, lotl the (tied and took the bout oidy, but tlie wind wus so Htrong at the time that it blew the l»oat over and over. Wi- then t(K)k the bout with uh under shelter of a pieee of ice, und Mr. Hellot and ourselves conmieneed euttitig ao ice house with our kniven for shelter. .Mr. Hellot sat forhulf un hour in ccnivcr- fiation with us, talking of the danger of our position. I told him I was not afraid, and that the .\merieun expedition was driven up and down this chamicl by tlie ice. He replied, " 1 know they were; and when the Lord protects ua, iH)t u hair o'our heads shall be touched." I then asked Mr. Hellrtt what time it was. He SI. id " ;\bout atpiurter past M a.m." ( Thursday iHth ', and then lushed up his Ih)oI^, and said he would go und sec how the icT wus driving. He hud only Iktu gone about four minutes when 1 went round the same hununoek under which nm- were sheltered to look lor him; could not .see him; and on returning Iwuk again to our shelter, saw his utiek «m the opposite side of a crack, ftlM)Ut tive fathoms wide, and the ice all breaking up. I then called out " Mr. Bellot!" but no answer (at this time bh)wing very heavy), .\fter thin I again searched round, but could siv imthing of him. I fK'lievc that when he got Irom the shelter the wind blew him into the ciack, and his south-wester In-ing tied down, he could not rise. Finding tlxrewas no hojH! of again seeing Lieutenant Bellot, I said to H(H)k, " I'm not at ; I know the Lord will always sustain us." We commenced travelling to try to get to C'api' l)e Haven or I'oint Phillips, and when we gt)t within two miles of (/upe l)e Hav en, could not get on shore, and returned again for this side, endeavouring to get to the -outhward, as the ice was driving to the northward. We were that night and the following day in coming across, and came into the land on the eastern shore a long way to the northward of the place where we wen* driven otf". We got into the land ut what Lieutenant Hellot told us was I'oint Hognrth ((piery). Q. How did you get on shore ? A. In drilling up the straits towards the Polar Sea, saw an iccheiv lying close to the shpre, and found it on the ground ; succeeded in getting on it and remained for six hours. I said to David Hook, " Don't be ufnud ; we must make a boat of a piece of ice ;" accordingly we got on to a piece passing, and I had a paddle belonging to the India-rublx'r lx)at. [On being aske(l what became of the India-rubber twat, replied it was left where Lieutenant lUliot was lost.] By this piece of drift-ice we managed to reach the shore, und then proceeded to where the accident happened : reached it on Friday ; could not Hnd our ship- mates or any provisior . Went on for Cape Bowden, and reached it on Friday night: found Ilurvc and Madden there. They told us they were going on to the ship with the mail bag. We rested that night in a miserable state, and in the morning got some bread and pcmmican out of the cache, and after we hud refreshe. Q. Had any of you any fears on your way up? A. No, not any of us. Q. Do you think Mr. Bellot was afraid? A. No, Sir ; he was a good officer. Danu) Hook, A.B., corrolwrates the statement of Johrsnn. Q. What sort ol' travelling had you (ui your way up A. Very bud, so nuu'li deep water on the ice. Q. Did you i'tel alarmed on yc on nhorc to be Havcd. Connuiuuler Pci.i.kn'h Uemurks. I think I may |K)»iitively Nuy that I can place every confidence in these ^tatc- nicntx, |)articulurly JohnsonV, who, I am happy to siiv, not only dcH'ft \\\h duty well, hut in n niorul and giKxl man. 'I'he distances which I have placed queries against, I consider they are mistaken in, which cannot he wondered at, from their anxiety, fatigue, and working tor their lives; tor the distance lK>tween I'oint Hogarth and CajH" Howden is too great for any man to travel in so short a space ot tinje. Their going across tli< channel to I)e Haven I do not (U)uht, for that place they knew well, having lurii there hetore ; and close to it they knew there was my cache of provisions. W. J. S. PuixKN, Commander Skcretahv of thk Admiralty to Commander Piu.kn. Sir, I iiAVK received and laid In-tore mv F-ords Commissioners of the A(lnu"r:\lty, the despatches which you forwarded Uy H.M.S. " Pliopnix," detailing the pro- ceedings of H.M.S. " North Star," under your ronuiiand, up to the '.^4th August last. My Lords have read with much interest t-e report of these proceedings, of which they entirely approve, as also of yor exertions when the " North Star " took the ground oi\ the ice setting into the bay and I'o ing that ship on to the shingle; and my Lords desire to convey to you the e> i.-ession of their satisiuc- tion at your conduct, and that of the officers, seamen av.d marines of the " North Star " on that trying occasion. It is scarcely necessmy for my Lord? .> sure you that t>> intelligence of the melancholy death of Lieut. Bell6t, ' lios conduct and example has ever l)ct'n l)eyond praise, has Ix-en received by tneir Lordships with deep regret. I am, &c. (Signed) W. A. H. Hamilton. XI. Orders to, and I'rococMlinjfs of, Commander IltMiry Trollope, Her Majesty's Discovery Ship " Rattlesnake." No. I. Hy the Commissioners ".r <'xecuting the Office of Lord High Admiral of the United KiKf^tiimi of Great Britain and Ireland, iScc. WiiKRKAs it is necessary to replenish Her Majesty's Sloop " Plover," now in position at Point Barrow, Behring Strait, with stores and provisions, ns well for the future supply of th";t vessel, as tor the purpose of meeting the wants of the crews of the " Knterjinse " and " Investigator," should those ships be driven b:u'k upon Behrinr Strait, or should circumstances have rendered it imperatively necessary for the crews t^e of inquirinj: wliotlur iiny thing can be traced of Captain Collinson's party, or of any men from the "Plover;" and as you ill iTceive consi(ler:il)le assistance in this olijcit lioni tlu' Indians whose bcltlenicnts arc in the vicinity of your winler ijuartcrs, you are to cultivate their jrnod feelings by every means in your power, and to take care t.lmt no cause of otieiice be given to them ; and fiir all supplies of provisions which their hunting parties may procure, you are always to pay in a liberal and proper manner. You are supplied with all documents and papers connected with the various 149 • Polar searches, and in closing these orders, wc have to express our confidence in your ability, and to leave you to act in such manner as will Lest fulfil our intentions. *.-..>;>:. Given under our hands this Qth February 1853, ' (Signed) J. II. G. Graham. •'■ Hyde Pah KER. M. F. F. Berkelkt. To Henry Trollopc, Esq., ■ m "- Commander of H.M.S. " Rattlesnake," '' • at Portsmouth. By Command of their Lordships, W. A. B. Hamilton. ■ i* . No. 2. Sir, Admirulty, February 15th 1853. I AM commanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to signify their direction to you to use your discretion as to quitting your present quarters after the receipt of this, and endeavouring to secure the " Plover" for the winter in Grantley Ilurbour ; but should you deem it prudent to remain where you are for the ensuing winter, uiy Lords desire you will use your utmost endeavours, as soon as the season will permit in 1854, to reach the winter quarters of the " Rattlesnake" in Grantley Harbour, so as to effect a junction with that ship in time to make the necessary exchanges between the two crews, and receive the needful supplies before the " Rattlesnake " shall have been compelled to quit Behring Strait in the autumn of 1854, on her return to this country. 2. In the c\ cut of your remaining this winter in Moore Harbour, you are to employ yourself in depositing all the supplies you can spare for the relief of any party that might reach that neighbourhood from Captam Collinson's, or Com- mander M'Clure's ship. You will also extend your parties right and left along the shore, and in such direction as may be advisable, as far as may be prudent, in order to deposit notices of your proceedings and intentions, and of the store of supplies left at Moore Harbour. 3. Before quitting Moore Harbour you will erect such house or place of shelter for any arriving party as your means will permit, and even if you should be unable to move the " Plover" round to Grantley Harbour, you and your people are at all events to make good your retreat to the quarters to be provided in that harbour by Commander Trollope. 4. For directions as to the course to be adopted in depositing notices of your intentions, and of the supplies left in Moore Harbour, their Lordships refer you to thcii instructions to Sir Edward Bck her, and to the further remarks on that sub- ject contained in Sir Edward Belcher's letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty, of the 29th May last, from Whale Fish Islands. I have, &c. W. A. B. Hamilton. Commander Maguire, H. M. Discovery Ship " Plover," Moore Harbour, I'oint Barrow; or to any ollicers of the " Plover," at Cape Lisbume. No. 3. RePOUTINO PnOCEEDINClS. Commander Tkollope to the Skcretauy of the Admiralty, London. Her Majesty's Sloop " Rattlesnake," Porto Grande, St. Vincent, Cape dc Verdes, Sir, !5th March 1853. I iiEo to acquaint you, for the information of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that llcr Majesty's sloop " Rattlesnake," under my command, arrived T 3 !•; 150 Here this morning, the 15tli instant, and that I hope to sail to-morrow for the Straits of Magellan and Valparaiso. Her Majesty's steam sloop " Basilisk" left us in latitude 49° 38' N., and longitude 5° 13' W. ; the hawser carried away twice in towing, and as there was considerable sea when we parted company, Captain Egerton did not think it desirable that boats should be risked in trans- ferring them. I have therefore had them surveyed, and taken on charge as junk. 2. I am glad to say that all on board are well, and that the ship is tolerably tight ; one of the scuttles on the lower deck still leaks, and some of the slops have been wet, but not materially damaged. I hope the means taken by our carpenters, now that we arc able to get to the outside, will remedy this delect ; the main deck ports have also been much inconvenience to us from not having been properly caulked ; but this also will be remedied, I hope. 3. I found here six French, two Austrians, one Dane, and two Portuguese, all having brought coal from Swansea, and not one English vessel in the bay. 4. We have l)cen able to get five or six days* fresh beef and some fruit. As there is a considerable swell in the bay, and much surf on the shore, I have thought it right to obtain water by purchase in preference to exposing our o\vn men, and risking any injury to the tmats ; the expense of whicn I hope their Lordships will not object to. 5. I beg leave to enclose a state and condition of this ship. I have, &c. Henuv Tkollope, Commander. No 4. I tiailed from Eddrslonc February S4th 1823. nga out Commander Trollope to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London. Reporting Proceedings. H.M.S. " Rattlesnake," Port Gallant, Straits of Magalhaen, 14th May 1853. Sir, (Received lOth July.) 1. I BEG leave to inform you that Her Majesty's ship " Rattlesnake" arrived here on the lOth instant in seventy-five days from England. On the 15th ccBti'isl^ Rjuaiori March wc arrived at St. Vincent, Cape dc Vcrdcs, where wc completed our 40 lo Migaihten watcr, and procured six days' fresh beef and vegetables ; sailed on the following a™,t.,7Sd.j.>p«. j^^y^ crossed the line in 21° .-^O' West on the .30th March. (On the 27th of March we exchanged numbers with Her Majestv's sloop "Cygnet" in 20° 4.3' West and r II' North.) Passed r. rrocn Trinidad and Martin Vas Rocks on the 9th April, and made Cape Virj;:n>, l)caring west fifteen miles, on Tuesday 10th May at 10 a.m., soon after which we had the satisfaction of seeing Her Majesty's steam sloop " Vixen " coming out of the straits ; oft' Dunge- ness she took us in tow, and brought us to an author under Mount Aymond in Possession Bay, at 6 p.m. ; we had all plain sail sot and a fresh breeze, the wind abeam; she towed us 8.^, 9, and 10 knots an hour; on the following day she towed us through the narrows with very little wind, in fact the whole day was calm and beautiful, more like s})ring in Engliind tliun a winter's day in these regions with the hills covered with snow. 2. At 6 P.M. we were abreast of the Chilian settlement at Sandy Point ; the steamer cast us off to pick up an anchorage for the night, and we stood In under topsa' . jib, and spanker. Tlie water siumled very suddenly from 3(1 to 10, and then .') fathoms in three casts of the lead, and in roiuiding-to, just as we let go the anchor, the ship tailed on a bank and iiiing in less than -J'l iiitlioins. As the tide was failing wc did not attempt to heave her oil' U)r two or tlirc- hours, when, with the aid of a hawser from the " ^'ixen," and tlie eheerful assistance of Captain Barnard, we iiove her off. As tlie bottom was sol'l and the water per- fectly smooth, I consider she has not sustained tlie slightest damage; in fact she was so quiet Miat v.'e hardly knew she was on shore. 3. Tlie height of the land and tlie deepness of tiie v.atcr deceived mc or I Bhould not have gone so close in. 4. llitlierto tlie woatlicr has ))i>en beautiful, and we have been faxoured in every way by fulling in with the steamer and with such weather as is rarely ound in these straits. 151 5. I regret to say that I have been obliged to apply to Captain Barnard for a survey on two men, John Smith, ice-quartermaster, and William Wilson, A.B., who are quite unable to endure the climate ; indeed their lives would be endan gercd by remaining here. We have also several men in the sick list, who, I fear, will not be available for duty for several weeks ; the cases are not severe ones, but it diminishes our strength considerably. On reporting this to Captain Barnard he has permitted six men to volunteer from his ship, and he has also allowed us to retain a supernumerary marine who was ordered a passage to rejoin the "Trident" until the sanction of the Commander-in-Chief can be obtained. 6. Captain Barnard brought down 800 lbs. of pumpkins, which he had the consideration to retain for our use. I have ordered them to be issued in addition to the established allowance, as we have now been eighty days at sea, in consider- ation also of our being short handed, and the nature of the climate, and the additional work entailed upon the men, I have ordered an extra allowance of cocoa and a quarter of a pound of preserved meat and biscuit to be issued as a morning meal before turning the hands up, both of which I trust their Lordships will approve of. 7. In conclusion, I have only to express my hope that we may be enabled to proceed on our destination, and that nothing will be wanting on our parts to endeavour to carry out their Lordships' orders to the fullest extent. I have, &c. Henry Trollope, Conunander. The "Vixen" hud been waiting our arrival in the entiunce of the strait since the 17th April. Cape Virgins itself is an exceedingly difficult and dangerous place to mamtain a station, and consequently bad for a rendezvous ; but Posses- sion Pay under Mount Avniond is a sheltered anchorage, easy to approach and also I J leave. A vessel also with the following bearings lies out of the strength of the tide and hi moderate water : — 16 fathoms, coarse sand. Mount Aymond W. by N. i N., Magnetic. Mount Dmero Bluff, E. by N. i N. „ Highest part of Bluff abreast, N.W. A W. About seven miles from the land. i|il H. T. No. 5. Commander Trollope to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London. H, M. S. " Rattlesnake," Valparaiso, 31st May 1853. Sir, (Received 18th July.) As the packet starts for Panama to-morrow, I beg leave to forward duplicates of my letters to you from Magalhaen's Straits, and also my letter to Admiral Moresby, reporting proceedings up to the arrival of the " Rattlesnake ' at Val- paraiso on the 31st May 1853. I trust we shall leave this on Jauirday 4th June for the Sandwich Islands and Behring Straits, I have, &c. Henry Trollope, Commander. Commander Trollope to Rear-Admiral Fairfax Moresby, C.B., &c. H, M. S. " Rattlesnalce," Valparaiso, Sir, ■ 3 1 St May 1853. I VE(i leave to acquaint you that H. M. S. " Rattlesnake " arrived here on the 31st May. I enclose a copy of my letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty, reporting proceedings up to our fulling in with II. M. steam sloop "Vixen" off Cape Vn-gins on the lOtli May, and arrival at Port (lallaut on 13th May. During our passage thron|;h the Straits of Magalhaen wc anchored seven times : in Possession l?ay, under Mount A yiiiond, on May the 10th ; off the Chileno Scttloiiv^nt at l'ii!!t;i Aro'.ui on tlie lltli ; !it St., Niohnlns Rnv on the 12th ; at Port Gallant on the 13th ; at Boija Bay on the 14th ; Half- Port Bay on the 15th. T 4 u On the night of the l6th we were in tow of the " Vixen" in Sea Reach, with t strong breeze and hcnvy rolling sea, wearing several times, and on the morning of the 17>h, the wind still increasing, we anchored in the Harbour of Mercy; on the 18lh it moderated, and the "Vixen" again took us in tow past Cape PiUnr and twenty-five miles to the westward. As' there was still a heavy rolling swell wc did not attempt to communicate, but we have every reason to express our grateful thanks to Captain Barnard and the " Vixen for the able and cheerful assistance aflTordcd us. Until we arrived at San Nicholas Bay the weather continued calm and favour* able for towing; but after that strong westerly and N.W. gales, with sleet and snow, were prevalent ; nevertheless, the " Vixen" towed us admirably — far better than could have been expected, more particularly in Sea llcacfa, where there was a heavy sea in addition to contend agamst. We were fortunate in meeting an easterly wind, which gave us a good offing. Wc stood W.S.W. (west true) until we got into 80" west, where a falling barometer warned us of a change, a!id a furious gale came on from N.W. The onl V indication of the change was the barometer ; for although it was cloudy with rain, no one anticipated wind. I feel sure this may Ix; adduced as an instance of the benefit arising from watching this invaluable instrument ; between 5.3° and 40° we had a succession of westerly gales, with almost constant rain and sleet. In 40° S. and 77° W., the wind came S.W., gradually hauling round to S.E., with which wc made Valparaiso Point at 7 a.m. this day, Iwaring E. by S. In the straits wc met the " Otter " screw steamer of 286 tons, and 225 horse power, Ixjlonging to the Hudson Bay Company, bound to Vancouver's Island. She left Plymouth on the 4th February, three weeks before us ; but had l)een to the Falkland Islands for water, and arrived in the straits on the 2d May. She had been wooding and watering, and coaling also, from a supply that some one, I believe a merchant at Buenos Ayrcs or Monte Video, had leil at Port Famine. The only vessel we spoke was an A merican ship, the " John Shcpperd " from New York to California ; she had sprung a leak, and l)ore up to go through the Straits of Magalhaen, instead of round the Horn. Captain Barnard sup- plied him with a chart and sailing directions, as he had none of his own. He anchored in company witli us under Mount Ayniond, on the 10th, after which we saw nothing more of him. I beg leave to enclose a copy ship. of the log, and a state and conditi' a of the have, &c. Henuv Trollope, Commander. The " Vixen" had been waiting our arrival in the entrance of the Straits since the 17th April. Cape Virgins itself is an exceedingly ditlicult and dangerous J (lace to maintain a station, and consequently bad for a rendezvous; but Possession IJay, under Mount Ayniond, is a sheltered anchwrage, easy to approach, and also to leave. A vessel also with the following bearings lies out of the strength of the tide, and in raooard here lour bullocks, twenty pigs, four thousand pounds of flour, and three thousand pounds of potatoes, which will complete us to full allowance for two years of bread and meat ; but it will, doubtless, last for a longer pe:iod from th" savings, and also from occasional supplies of fresh meat which w;; may obtain from tlic natives. Although I could liave wished to have had nvjre of these necessary articles, I believe we have as much as we can with siu'ety stov ; ol' other provisions we have a much larger supply. 3. In consideration of the length of time wc have been on salt provisions, and the shortiiess of our sta}', I liave caused double the usual allowance of vege- tables to be issued to the ship's company while we remain. 4. Considering it probable that cash might be useful in making purchases from the American whale ships, I have directed the paymaster to draw a bill on the Accountant-Cieneral for 6r)/., or 3(M) dollars, in addition to that drawn at Valparaiso, for the above purpose, agreeably to chapter 3, article .3, and page 70 of the Paymaster's Instructions ; which I hope will meet their Lordsliips' approval. ."). Not having Ix-en supplied with any linseed oil with the twill cloth for o\ cr- coats, and only 32 gallon.; lieing allowed as two years' allowance for painting the ship, I have purchased 28 gallons of linseed oil for painting the coats. 6. We >iiil to-day for Port Clarence, passing through the Amoutka passage, and 1 hope and tmst we shall fall in with Capt. Frederick on or about the 20th of August. 7. Small-pox has l)een, and indeed still is, prevalent here ; I have therefore endeavoured to communicate as little as possible ; the deaths have been many, but chiefly among the natives who have not been vaccinated. 8. I enclose a sGite and condition of the ship, and Have, &c. Henuy TuoLi-opE, Commandor. No. 7. UkI'OUTIM. t'uoCEEniNdS. II. .M.S. " Rattlesnake," Port Clarence, 1st September 1853. Sir, (Received l6th Ueceml)er.) I HE(J to uccjuaint you, for the information of my Lords, that Her Majesty's sl(K)p " Rattlesnake ' arrived at Port Chuence on Monday, 22nd August, in twenty-sevc . lays from Honolulu. We lost the trade on August 3r(l, in 33° 30' north, and l()3" 24' west; ent red the fog.- on the llth, in 40'' .30' and l69\ but were notwithstanding fortunar in getting observation- '!/ day before wc passed the Aleutians, whicli we did Ih.'! ween Scgonam and /;• itka ( Hjth \ugiist\ without seeing the hurl. Aitiioiigli tiie ship's coiinc was not j)..,riciilarly influenced by it, and there is said to be no race in this channel, I never saw such tt confused tumbling sea, with appearance of overiails, &-• . '. washed one of the gangways away, and broke on lu)ard us several times. 1 he togs still continued, with strong westerly breezes ; we found we could not weather the Prib\loff Isles, and therelbre passed between St. George and St. Paul's. The U 1S4 Mj .. ,; , f. i J* 'i chtinnd is broad iiiul free from danger, but reefs extend off the .soiitli-eiist end of St. Fiml's, and a boilinj!; surf breaks on the long low level island called Morjovi or Morse Isle. From the appearance of the water, I should say no ship ought to approach nnnecessarily within five miles. We sigh.cd Cape flod.iey at sun- set on the :'.\ K and on the following morning had tin satisfaction of seeing Her i>IujcstvV .Slo.,h" Plover " coming In )m (i rant lev; she iiad just parted company with tfer Maj ty's Ship " Amphitrite," and was en her way to Poin; Harrow. Captain Maguii' pulled out to us, and arranged thiu we should l)oth anciiov under Pomt Spencer, and transfer the provisions and stores (of which I enclose the lists). \Ve hful two bullocks and sixteen pigs for him, tiie former were killed and would give Iresh meat for her crew, tor eleven or twelve days ; but of the pigs thev would only lake four, in addition to f'-.Mt otlicis received from the Amphitrite." '^he was, in fact, terribly crowdeci. i-'ive of our men volunteered for her, and fi.c from her were transferred to (!;! " .\;v,phitritc," no rliai she has left with her CI w in good health; and I believe uur irrival. t)esi(ics ;ii(! good things ve broti^^ht them, cheered them up in a iiiuniw^ and Ui a d' '.ti i that is better !.lt than ilescrilKMl. 2. The "Plover" sailed nt 3 .v.M. on \Vedne,.,i.'ty, •J'h'u August, w*;!' a nice breeze from S.I! , which contiimo 1 for full thirty-.i •: hours afterwards, so that I have no doubt sli, ^-.nt througii riie strait^, and as •. iic is only three days later in starting than she Wib. last yan; '. viiticipute tiiut her arrival at Point Banow will Ix; equally favouiaWc. 3. After st^iung another din at Point Spmcer to collect diii'^ wik 1 for * adding the house, we went ur^ to Gran' ley iiailKur, ;ind conmiencci! -ightening to ennlile ■'■r to vnter tiic narrow and soi:!"wlri! intriCKte chupue'. ; in (loi>ig which we have areat rearan io thank Captain Fredciick and the " , > ,;;phitrite " for their uirut ch«t rful and valuable assist.mce. i. I ])r'>jK)8e to leave Grantley HarlK)ur about the uiichlle of July, and then lo si, i ihc Hv !ici.Heen Asia and America, as far as we can go with safety ; and U) !k' oif ky Cupe, Wainwright Inlet, or Point I'Vanklin, as the case may lie, and I'V .ic detciiiiine, about the tir>t week in August, there to look out tor the " rk'i^er," and return with her to Port Clariin e. This course has been agreed upon with (, ;i))tain Miiguire, and will, I trust, meet their Lordships' approval, as the most likely to be of service to the cause. No lienefit would l)e derived from our l)eii)g off the coast of America until Au.'.'ust, it not being possible that the " Plover" could leave Point Harrow before tijat time, and the sooner we have some change after lieiiig released from winter nnarters, the better it will be for the health and spirits of the men ; and we nia> jx-rhaps do some good or obtain some information by skirting the pack ; besides the " I'lover's " condition not l)eing particularly good, if an\ thing hapj)ened to her we should be able to find our wiiy to Point Barrow, and receive her crew. ."). On our tailing in with the " Plover," or receiving her crew, I proposed returning t'- Port ('larence to meet the vessel their Lordships' orders give me to understand will be despatched from Admiral Moresby's siiuadron ; or, in the event ot'our not receiving further orders, to deposit our spare provisions in the house, and profev'd \o Honolulu. 6. Since writing the above, I have twice, without success, attempted to take the ship into Grantley Harbour. After soimding and buoying the channel, and finding, as we thought, 1" feet and 16 feet (i inches throughout, we weighed with the wind at I'i.N.K., but took the ground in the narrowest part ; the tide ebbing an hour afterwards left us with only 14 feet, although wi' hud 17 feet and li) fw't witiiin a ship's length. Wv laid two anchors out usteiii, but could not start her an inch, therefore commencid lightening her. .\i\vr faking about 80 tons out, iKing favoured with remarkably fine and calm weather, on the following day, after hsiving ben 20 hours im shore, we hove her of^' without difficulty; in flict, i'rom the taut strain there was upon the hawsers, she went off almost of her own accord. 'I'lie bottom is so* 'law tlu'refbrc she sustained no damage, but 1 do not think it advisable to tii' Harlnmr ; we might indeed lighten her mi dainaginn the stores and dry jjrovisions, whi' i In fa • ided as we were h\ the " Ai 'i^ri' ti weat' / was most anxious alniut it inti;^' .- , and the bottom evidently gc, ■ carry a line of soundings of 1 7 feet m, nut •iiipof this class into(i'rantli v ".re, but with great risk of necessarily he much exposed. iioats, and during iifin^inally fine channel is extremely narrow and .■^08, so that it might be possi' !o to m go over the same ground and 155 have 15. 14, and even 13 feet; and if a ship gets on shore in the passage, and a Houth-westcrly wind romes on, t'ne sen gets up so rapidly that the consequence might be serious, 'i'iim" is u ciTtaiii risk of having the ship in Port Clarence vhen the ice breaks up, t)ut as far as I cai judge, not so great but that it may be encountered. On Thursday, the 1st September, we made a fresh attempt, using greater caution than before, warping in with hawsers both ahead and astern, but although under peculiarly favourable circumstances, from a southerly- wind having raised the water considerablv, we again stuck fast, and were obliged to haul her off. I have now determined not to attempt it again, and I can only hope that the result will prove that I have not judged improperly. 7. In the event of their Lordships' recpiiring the " Rattlesnake" to return to the northward from Honolulu, or to remain here during the winter of 1854 and 1 855, I beg leave to enclose demands for provisions and stores for another twelvemonth, dating from November 1854. 8. I enclose a state and condition of this ship. I have. Sec. Henry Tbollope, Commander. I :: i!i No. 8. Her Majesty's Sloop " Rattlesnake," Sir, Port Clarence, 11th September 1853. 1 . I BEf) to enclose a copy of my letter sent by Her Majesty's ship " Am- phitrite" on the 4th instant. 2. The " Koh-i Noor," a small schooner of 1.35 tons, (Jeorge Lcvine, master, from Hong-Kong, is on her return to that port ; and I take the opportunity of writing, although I ha\e nothing to add but that we are watering, wooding, and preparing for the winter. '.\. The " Koli-i-Noor" is trading for skins and walrus teeth ; she left Kong- Kong on the 27th of May and arrived here on the 2d of August, whence she proceeded to the coast of Asia, but does not appear to have gone farther than Kolintchin or Hurney's Island; the supercargo, Mr. Gustav Overbeck, told me that he found the natives had papers in French and Russian addressed to any shipwrecked persons, desiring them to write their state and condition on the back, when the papers would be forwarded to the Russian ports, and measures taken to assist and relieve them ; he did not make an exact copy, but this was the purport, and it a|)pears so far satisfactory, as proving that even in this remote (piarter steps have been taken by the Russian Government for assisting our missing countrymen ; and as this has been accidentally proved in this port, the most distant from the Russian head-quarters, it may be inferred that similar measures have been taken more to the west. 4. Mr. Levine reports having seen or fallen in with twenty-tive sail of whalers. Whales, walrus, and seal in the utmost abundance. He had some very fine specimens of tusks some the pair weighing 20 lbs., while the average is 5 to 10 and 12 lbs. Altogether he seemed to think a profitable \()yage had been made, and they would double the original outlay. 5. The ice ajipears to have prevented their further advance, as it seems to have been his wish to have gone up to Herald's Island ; but his reports arc vague in this respect, and he had not paid much attention to his position. (>. The " Koh-i-Noor," or some similar \essel, is to leave Hong-Kong in Mav 1H54, and renew the voyage they have made this year, and he speaks (,f coiiiiiii, to Port Spencer with su))plies of potatoes, pigs, cVc. for the whalers. I iDcrtion this as it may be convenient to their Lordships to know that such means of conuuuiiication exist. Mr. Levine tells me that he informed the senior oHici- at Hong-Kong that he wa.s roming here and offered to bring any- thing for C'- ,)taiu Collinson's ships. I have, &c. Henry Trollope Oonmiander. U 2 " ""'""' ' 1 On ffoinp; on Iwanl thi' " Koli-i-Noor," I found thiit Mr. OvitIktIl had made n oopv of tlu" I'rcni'Ii part of thi- pu|H'r alliidid to in my Ictti-r. 12th Scptt'nil)er lHr);». Hy. Troi.i^oi'K. Messieurs les Ktrangers, Li:h croiseurs ni'ont donnes hi connaissunee de votre naufraf;e pros du cote de I'Knipire llusse, c'est puiirquoi je vous prie de in'avcrtir en eerivant Mur Ic papier. i)e (juelle pavs etes-vous ? Quel est le hiit de votre eroisiere sur la nier u:liiciale? De (piel nioyen jx-nsez-vous rcvenir a votre patrie ? ct nc fout-il pas pour vous (]uel(iue reeours ? Sredne, Kolvniark, Ic 2ic Mara 18.J3. (SifTiU') FkIIDI.NAM) ClIMIKIIWSSKIKV. No. <). Skchktahv of Till-: Ahmikai.tv to Commander MACii'iRK. Sir, Kitli January 1851. I AM conuniuidod l)y my Lords ( 'onmiissioners of the Admiralty to acknow- ledge tiie reecipt of your letter of the 1st of September last, detailing your |)roceediiiu:s, and to ae()uaiiit you that they have the entire approval of my liOrds, wild eonsider that praise is due to you for \our active exertions, by which you made ijood your passaj^e to I'ort Clarence iK^fore the seasiseoverv Slooj) " Rattlesnake," Port Clarence, Behring Straits. XII. Report on the Procee(lin«js of I lor Miijcstv's Ship " Aiuphitritc,' Captain Frederick. No. !. RKroHT OK PhO( KKDI.NCirf. Captain KKKncnuK to the Ski hktakv ok riii: Aomikai.tv, London. II.NLS. " nmphitriie," San Prancisco, 3 1 St October, IH.'iS. Sir, (Ueceived HJtli December.) I. I iiAvi; the honour to acquaint you that I sailed from Honolulu in Her Majesty's >i)i|» under my conunand on tiie Kith June. •„'. It v.as my intention to have passed througii tiie Aleutiai\ Chain by the Amouphla (Jhanne! ; but tiie wind headed us otl", and on the 2Mth we made the islands of the Pour Mountains. 'I'liese islands are very remarkable, having conical peaks from .S,()(l(» to 1,(MH) feet in iieifxlit ; they were covered with snow fully tluie-tourtiis of their heiffht, and partially to tiie water's edge. 'Phe weather being moderate and tolerably clear, f determined on trying the channel iK'tween these "rsifuiiis and the isluiid of Yoiiiiaska. !t is tcJi !■;■ eleven uiiles wide, and apparently I'rcc I'rom danger. W'c stood through aljut r id-channel, Mid ad I lft7 no souiulinga at fifteen fatlioniH ; there was n ripplin{f of tlic water, hut not any strength of current. .\. On the ()th of July we made King's Ishnid, and the same evening anchored off Point Spencer, Port ('larence. 4. On the following day, examination was made of the notices, cache of provi- sions, find coals. Everything was found as wc left it last year, with the excep- tion of til' " Plover's" storehouse, which was partly knocked down l»y the snow. &. On the I()tli we sailed ; heat through the straits the following day, and arrived otV Cape l.isburnc on the morning of the 19th. (J. To my surprise, the shore both to the southward and north-eastward of the cape was blocked with ice; tiie southern pack extended from the cape as far as could be seen, and about fifteen miles deep from the land ; tiie other pack, as far as could !)<• seen to the northward and eastward, with a lane of water between it and the land, the wind being southerly. 'I'herc was a large open space between the two packs, into whi( h we stood, to within iour or five miles from the cape, and dose to the edge of the ice ; but there was no appearance of any people or boats : a gun was fired, and we remained until quite satisfied there was no one at the rendezvous. Wc then stood i.iit and worked along the edge of the southern pack until the weather became thick ; this continued the whole of the next day, with afresh southerly wind. ". On the 21st we stood in, and made Point Hope, close to the northward of which we again observed the ice, but miu-h broken. 8. On the 22n(l we stood for Cape Lisburnc ; the ice was still off it, but moving fast to the northward ; and on the 2;ird the shore to the southward of the cape was free from ice. Two baidars with natives came otl"; they had seen nothing of the "Plover's" boats. A boat was sent to bury a notice at the rendezvous. !). The ice still continued to hang ai-out the la id to the north-eastward of ( 'ape l.isbiu'nc until the IHth, when a strong southerly wind came on, which lasted till the .11 st, and cleared it away. 10. Wc cruised off Cape Lisburnc till the 1st August, cm which day, the weather being settled, we anchored on a bank to the northward of the cape. This bank has either grown up since Captain Hcechey's survey, or was not noticed by him. We had ")| fathoms, the cape bearing S.S.E. (mag.) five miles. 11. We remained at anchor till the Itli, when 1 began to fear that some accident had happened either to the " Plover" or her boats, and therefore deter- mined to proceed to Icy Cape, and from theive to send a boat to Point Harrow, for which purpose 1 prepared the pinnace of Lis ship. A cache of provisions was buricu at the western part of the little bay of rendezvous previous ^o our leaving. 12. On the oth we made the land about Point J. ' ad observed a stream of ice to the N.E. The next day we stood tlu'ough large (juantities of sailing ice, and as it became nnu'h less open as wc advanced to the northwiud, and there being some streams of considerable extent, heavy enough to have rubbed away our channels had wc come in contact in a breeze, (which in thick weather would have been probable,) I bore up again lor Cape Lisburnc, resolving not to send a boat that time. 'I'lie ice being so far to the s» ■.tliward at this advanced period of the season, appeared to n)c l)unie, but the boats had not arrived ; for two days the wind having li''"''i firsh from the southward, I hoped the ice might be cleared away, ami ti >ii the sth again made sail to the northward. 14. On the !)th it blew strong iVoni the .\.L., and we stood otf and on Point Lay, in the track of any vessel coming from Point Barrow. At 9 a.m. of the lOlh, a sail was re|)orted to the northward, which was soon made out to be the " Plover," and shortly a*'ter I had the satisfaction of hearing that they were all well on board. 1.'). The boats had been wrecked on the i.'Hli July, in attempting t) come (h)wn, but the whole jiarty regained their ship in safety,— Counnander Maguire's desjiatch gives the detaUs of this accident We arrived in company with the 1 iuvci ill lull V liiivin-i' till lUf i.Jiii. 16. Manv eases of scurvv had occurred on board the " Plover," during the li :^ i|tl M in^ m k m winter ; I tlH-roHm' to the < luisc- of so nnieh ncmvy. 17. As it hud Invn reported thnt the " I'lover" leaked after tiikiii^ in her xloreH and |)rovisit)nv last \eur. I considered it nee<'ssary to direct that a strict ex: linution of her lull! should Ik- apiin made, and tiiat tiie siirx'eyinp officers, in report init on tlic etlicicncv of tlie m-sscI, siiould take into consideration tiic late period of tli( sear, and the iinta\(»iirai)leness of the sciison ; they were not mianinious. iiiid at the request of ( onnnander Nfapiire, I took the furtlier step of askinu; the opinion of each of the otticcrs "f the " I'lover." Asthev all atfree(i that there UKuld not lu' undue risk in attempting: to return to Point Harrow, I consented to the li 'einf^t iH'iiij^ made. My o\mi opn mn was, that then- woidd he much ri "•, n v 'i , .count of the unfavonralile siason th.m of the state of the vesv'l ; Imt kx»r i< . ing that it had Inen rcipiisite to remove her from I'oint Barrow, l^fbi\ the orders had Ix-en received to deposit supplies of provisions there, nnd that there was a possibility of parties fallintr hack from the " Kt ter- prise" or " Investigator," to wlioni the want of stich sup|)lies might Ix* fatal, I trust their 1-ordships will not dci-m that I have gone too far in pennitting that risk to 1h' iticurred. 18. The "Plover" was ii'-eonn>le»'"' according to the accompanying report, and sailed on the mornini; oft' . .'_,. , my t'ortc: itely she met the "liattlesnake" at the entrance ot the |)orf ; Iwth vessels were anchored un take her into Cirantley Harbour, without success. Commander 'I"rollop<' then decided u|K)n keeping her in I'ort (,'larence ; I (|uite cnjncided with hmi as to tlu propriety of this decision. "iO. Dm'ing our absence from i'ort ( 'larence, the Hriti^h sihooner "Koh-i-Noor," Ci. L. Lev ien. master, had arrived on a trading voyage, ami had made a notation, dated August 'ind, on one of the buried papiMs in (iraiitley Harbour. 21. On the 4th September \m- dropped down to I'oint *>';^encer to take 'n wood. The " Kodiiik." bartpie, U'loiiLring to the Itnssian . . iiericnn Vw Com- panv, armed at Port l larence on tlu 'ith. ^^'e saile ^ ; but nom was s^en, nor any indication ol it, and I tirel satisfied ti'i.t there i'^ no land 'bin the above limits. 2;<. ()ntln 1st October wt uri\ed at lldnolulu; liavnig procured refresh- ments, which were niiicli leipiiri'd by the people, we >.ailt(l on the 9th for San IVanci'^co, in prosecution of orders trom the ( 'ommMndei-m-C-'hief. \S'e arrived at this port <-'> ihi 2Hth, and it i-^ my intentio. to >ail in ,1 few days for the coast of .Mexico, in ptirsuance of my orders. f have, .V . (iiAiuKs I'll DKKirK, Captain. Enclosn 'n L. tter dated .31sf October 18.')3. JK CuARiKs 1 Id , .. h llsq., Captain, ( Onnnanding Her Majesty's Ship " Aniphit.ite," ai.i! Senior Naval Otlicir at Port Clarence, Hehring Strait". To the Senior Lieutenant, .Master, Carpenter, and (Carpenters Mate of Her .Majesty's Ship " Amphitrite." Yor arc hereby directed to repair on board Her .VIajest\'s ship " Plover," and hold -trict and careful snrviy on her hidl. and make such inquiries r* /tpcotin^; hrr state imt, it tlir Mliip lfa\i'> at tlir »umu' ihmi )'I. Mr. Hi 1,1., SiToud Miittrr. — I think tht-ro wouhi i • to umIuu risk. Mr. Ni \rii, t'ur|H'nt<'r. I think thdv would not ! nutrt- than coinnioii risk. KtKiiioiii .M\i.MMi, CoinniandiT. A. II. \ I iiNoN, Lii'utiMiant. TiKiMvs A. Mill, Sirond Mii-^tcr, John Si:.\rii, ( ariHiitir. John .SiMI'Hns (M.), Suigi'oii. Of Ili-r Maji'-'tv's Ship " I'lovfr." II No. ','. Ski RKTAiu III riiK .\ii.\iih\i i\ to Captain riiDiiKiin k. Sir, Kith .laiiiiaiy IH.'il. I \M connimndi'd li\ in\ Lords CoinmissioiuTs of the .\diiiiraltv to iickiiow- U'diic the ivc'iipt ol voiir U'tter of thi' '.\\>\ OctoluT la-t, (Ictailiiijf your proceed- iiiys in c'onvi'vinji sjipplifs to the icliff ot' tlu- ixpidilitai in Hthriii^ Straits; und I am to anpiaint you tliat iiiv Lords nitiivly approve of the jud^:mfiit und activity witli which yon lia\c canicd out their instructions on this suiijeet. I am, \'c. (SitfiK'd) \V. A. H. IIamiiton. Captain Frederick, II. M.S. " Anipiiitrite," i'acitii'. XIII. Ui>|)tirl of tlic l*ro('iHM lilies (if llt'i- Mnji'sfy's Discovery Ship " I'lovcr," Commander Koclilort .Ma^'iiirc. No. I. Coiiiiiiander .M.\(.riiii: to tiie Si:rnKr\iiv ok riii; .Vdmiuai.tv. Her .Majesty's Ship " Plover," Port Clarence, •Jisi .Vuffiist ixr,:\. .Sir, ( Ucceived Kith Decenilnr.) I iiAM the iionour to report to you for the iiifonimtion of tiie I,,ords ( 'oin- inissioners ot tlie .Adiiiiraity my procii'diiius since my last communication of the 21st of Auu'iist I s«.")i>, in a- brief a form as I can, oinitliiiu the cUtaiU of the necessary sliipV duties and airaiinemeiits, and he^- to refer to tin- accoiiipanyiiij; ahridfrii I journal for some account of our iiitercour>e with the l^^(|uimau.<, and other iiu'ideiital occurrences. Proceedinjj: to >ea from Port Clauiice early on the morniiij;- of tlie 'Jlst August, we passed thnaiuh Hehrini,' Straits iiy the eastern pa-sasfc the follow- ing day at noon with a tiivouralile hree/e. -V succession of loiitiaiy winds delayed our progress to the iiorth-iast, so thut wi' only arrixed al Point Marrow by the :!i(l Septeml>er, and were frozen in on tiii' 2llh of tiii' same month. The approach tu the ai.ehorage sought was, contrary to my expectations, shoal and intricate, but when gained it was secure, tli(iugli difficult of access or egress. The commencement of our intei((iiir>e with tlie native- was attiiided with many imiilen-^imt ciicumstaiice-;. Nd ^iiiLjK' boat'- were immght back From this time wc ap|)earcd to get oii better with them, and nt length so good an understanding appcare also sliowii us t hut tlu- nmst fioin Point Uairow to Sir John Friiuklin's cxtronu (Uotuni Uirt'), contains no wiiitiT Imt.-., .'uul by iiniiuostioimblo native report, then- ure none to sonir distiinci' lu'vonil Barter Island; so that parties traviUing in sprin;,^ or autumn eould receive neither assistance nor hiudraiice t'roiu natives, for an extent of at least 250 niile> from Point Harrow. From the native accounts here it seems certain that I- *h tlu' '• Investigator" and " Enterprize" were hoarded at tlu' tinu' ol' their passiMg alonj; thi> part of the coast, at the distance of .")0 and \Mt miles east of this place, some of them accuratclv descrihiufj; petuliarities ahout the ships h\ which they could Imj known, such as the large ice chocks and diagonal decks, iVc.; hut the only actual truce of either of them we may he said to havi' discovered is a portion of a paper fromthe " Investigator," dated otf Point Drew, sih August \H')0, together with thecauvass luig that had enclose can go no further than confirm the belief in the existence of a current to the N.K.,to a di-tanci' ol'onU a few miles «>ff the land. Beyond that a line of luunmockv ice, from ten to twenty feet in height, has existed all the winter, apparently agroiuul in six fathoms; beyond tliis line scarcely a day pas.xcd throughout the winter, without a water sky being visible between W.S.W. and N.E. (true). When easterl , w inds prevailed, a large s])ace ol' opin water was indicated by the extent of water sk\, and when visited, the vapour rising from its siu'face obscured the view beyond a few hundred vard.-; but within that distance heav}' icx; was seen drifting in a direction with the wind. The .iatives informed us that the ice was set off the coast by the easterly, and packed upon it bv westerly winds, and that the greatest clearance is etlcctcd by S. and S.W. (^true) gales. They point to the N. (true) as the dirci-tion in wliicli the ice goe>, but wc have not Injen able to understand whether they con-idcr tiiis the etfecl ot a prevailing current. Whilst treating on this subject, it seems worthy of lH.'ing remarked, that the natives state the whales to make tluir appearance off Point IIopc' in April and Mav, wiicn tlic iit break.- up into tiehls, and that most ot' them have ihsapj)eared b\ •'• '•uie the ships arrivi. The animals appear about the >ame time at Poi-' iJarnjw, ' "e f .>aed by tiie natives in their u-mi-aks, which they carrv lO the open watii lor that purpose. In .June few are seen, :ind in July nc .■, and the ptnpic believe' tlii'v retiii' northward, to return in .\ugust and Si|)teud)cr. Tlii' masters of whaling voscls have informed me that whales are li>s ainmdant in tiic open water in.luiy and August than in .lune. The tide> have been rtgi>tered hourly for nine month.-, and the result is that the flood make- from the west, iuid the mi'an rise and fall in Mlsou's Bay is seven inches. Tiii' time of '.ligli water at lull and cliangi is I cvi. ; l)ut great irregularities oixur from tlu' wind, tin rise being -carci'lv perciptibli- with fresh E. luid N.E. breezes, when with .S.W. gale- it amounts to Hi, feet. Of tile latter case, a remarkable instance occurnd on the Isih of i)ecend)er, when the water rose from the usual thplh of I J.^ firt to i7tt. lOin., with a gali- at S.W. (true), the force of which was registered for 1 I Ikmu- at s{\. \fni. uiid lU I'eet. The hunnnock> which had U'cn grounded aloiii; the hori/on and in-hore by northerly and north-we.-terly wind- in Stplend)er, win lluateel by tiiis lise, and bh)wn of!' the land, taking with them all the iee that had formed oul.-ide the liip. On thi' followhig day, Decemb<;r lyth, at noon, instead of tlu' usual unbroke'ii lield ol ice' te) the northward, we had none in sight from the masthead, and the view of an open sea was as little agreeable as it was unseasonable'. In a le'vv ehiv - it was again frozen, and after a time tlic line of humnioeks was again lormed, and re'maine-el fast when we passed in the sliij) on the evening of the 7th of ,\ugust. The lateness of the pre.-ent season compai'cd with everv oni' since Isls. -rcms to me to Ik; accounted fe)r by the winter gah'S liavinu be'cn heavier ihan usual this last year, and by raising higher tide-, the' heavy mus-e> have' groimded more firmly along shore, where' thev im|)ede the e'urrent in clearmg the .-hoic eif the last winter's formation. The month- of .lunr and .lid\ were remarkable' tor the ■■ ; Viilr t'.flia'iiu'ii.ir V ^tlpt^^, St-Miuii \- the ice oft" shore. The mean temperature tor the eleven months at Point Barrow, was about six decrees higher than that given as the result of Sir E. Parry's twelve months at Melville Island; but the higliesl and lowest temperatures have had a more limited range, being + 50, and — 4:?, or 18' above the freezing point on the warmest day of July, and ^T^ below it on the coldest ila\ of .biiuiary. The prevailing winds have been K.N.E., N.K., •ind Northerlx ''•'ie)duringt,he winter and spring, inter- rupted occasionally by those from the ojjposite points, and after May they were moderate and more varial)le. The fall of snow was not great, and did not exceed one foot in depth ; but the air throughout was loaded a good deal with clouds and vapours, and during the summer the dew point was high. The climate may therefore be considered humid, as might be anticipated from its maritime situation. During the winter the officers took nmch interest in making astronomical observations, and by a mean of ;3.'i() lunar distances, the longitude of Point Barrow was found to agree with that given to it by Mr. Elson, the discoverer. A series of magnetical observations were also made under the superintendence of Mr. Hull, the second master, who also registered the tides, and whose zeal in these occupations was higlily praiseworthy. The departure of a large por- tion of inhabitants of Point Harrow and Cape Smyth to the eastward in the early |)art of ,1 uly, relieved me of all anxiety about receiving any hindrance to the transport of the boats to the open water; and on the 9th I accompanied Lieut. Vernon, and Mr (iordon, mate, with an auxiliary party to assist in dragging the boats on sledges over tlu' ice twelve or thirteen mdes to the southward of Cape Smyth, where 1 li'ft him with a laMiuialile breeze, confidently trusting in his success. 1 enclose Lieut. Vernon's account of the loss of the boats in his charge, and merely remark that I am perfectly satisfied with the manner in which that othcer acipiitted liimself, and to express my feeling of pleasure that he was able to save the lives of all his party, whose conduct on this occasion was most praiseworthy. From the 1st of August I had kept up a daily C(mnnunication with Cape Smyth, by .^ending an officer across I'.lson's Ray to report any opening or move- ment in the ice ; and on the "th, seeing open water round Point Barrow, and a favourable easterly wind blowing, I wci;' in a boat to examine the state of the ice. I found the lane of watir along short to terminate a mile north of Cape Smvtli ; but since the Awx pievious anothei had been formeil by the easterly wind outside the land floe and lirst liiu' of .nnnmocks to the S.W., as far as could be seen on a clear day. Ueturning on board at 8 p.m., and finding the wind steadv at l''.S.M., with no change indicated by the barometer, I proceeded to sea, hoping to keep the breeze luitil clear of the ice, and to make my way to Cape liisbnrne. to receivi- orders or make arrangements for returning to Point Barrow in the event of being ordered. The wind shifted to S.W. in the night, with heavy rain and dense fogs, 'i'owards the morning of the 9th a N.E. wind gave us ever\ prospet't of ■^oon reaching open water; but the land floe in the the following day at II a.'m. I comtmmicated with n. M. S. " Amphitrite," and repaired in company with her to Port Clarence, to prepare tor iiioIIhi wiiitir at I'oinl Marrow. Ha\ing been completed to sixteen months' provisions ami fuel by that ship, and there being no probability of the nrrival of H.M.S, " Kaltlesnake" being now ready for sea, I purpose sailing from hence at \ \.m. to-morrow, the 'i-'d instant, to take tip my winter quarters atjain at Point Harrow, \\li( ic I shall remain until released from the ice in 1S54. 1 shall thill rt'turn t.i this ]ilacc to meet H.M.S." Kattlesnake," in pursuance of their Lordships' instruct ioi.s. I have, iVc. Horiiio^.T Magoire, Commander. :!' ,l! .1 X 2 184 Enclosures. To the Chief Trader in the Russian Settlement, North America. Sir, Her Britannic Majestys Ship " Investigator," 8th AuLfust inrx). Off Point Drew thi.s day. Should any white people (English) be seen along the coast, I have to request that you will give directions for their Wing . . (The revuiindir of fhr nuticc torn ofi'.) Akctic ExrKnnioN i\ skaiu ii of Sir John Fhanki.iv. Her Majesty's Ship " Plover" Mill be found wintering ( I8r)2-.").H) two miles S.E. (true) of Point Barrow, called by the natives Noo-wook. Parties falling back upon thiit point are reconniicnded to travel along the low chain of sand-pits lying otl'the coast, as the most direct line. The natives on the whole arc not unfriendly, l)ut nuist be .Icalt with cautiously to avoid surprise. April, 1H.')3. Kduiioi,. M\(.iini., ( Onnnandcr. The movements and position of tlie '* I'lover" altir .luly 1853, will altogether depend upon furtlier instructions or intelligence from the Ai;.\K( U ok ISms .Inl'N 1"UA\KI.1\. Tins paper is printed tor distribution by tlu' nati\cs ot' Point Barrow among the Eastern Esipiimaux at Barter Island, with tlic hope tiiat it may tall into the hands of any persons belonging to the .\rctic Expeditions who may be on or near the coast. Should this hope be realized, the parties will learn that the " I'lcver" has wintered ( JH.")2-.");$) at Point Barrow, called by tlu' natives .Noo-wook, where it has t)een ascertained that only H.M.S. " Investigator" was seen pas-ing to the eastward of Return Reef in ls.")(), and tlu' " Eiiterprize" in 1M,')|. Although the mo\ements and position of the " Pl(i\er," after bei;ig released from the ice, will altogether depend uiion future instructions oi- inteiligence from the Admiralty, it is almost certain that she will nniain lure anutlier winter, unless further information is obtained. The natives on the vhole arc not unfriendly, but ii)n>t be dealt with cautiously to a- i surprise, and are not to be trusted when in large numbers. UoiiiKiiti Maoiiui;, ( ommander. NoTicF, i() iti: i.KFr Willi 111! Naiims (h I'lnvr Bahiiow. The "Plovir" arrixcd at this place, the native nainc of *\liich is .N(io-W(X)k, on the ;Jrd of Sej)ti-mbir last, wintereil lu re, and lelt tor Belning Straits in August 1851$, tor further orders. If sheducs not return hither she will probably be found at (irantley Harlionr next winter. The only inteliigenee obtained of ships i'-. that the " Investigator" in iMoO, and the "Enterprize" in |s")l, on their |)as>age to ihi' ea^tuard, weic \isiten was not one to lose time in, shut out, and closi' down on an exposed shore, with a gale coming on that would soon have loaded it with ici-. Having ascertained, as exp"ditiously as jnissible, that there was about nine inches to sp:!re across a shoal before we got to deep water, the anchor was weighed, an;l alter tnaking a few tacks, the narrowness of the channel and the ship taking the ground twice, made ii advisaiilc to anchor and kedgc under shelter ot the spit. ;V fortunate tm-n in tlie current enabled US tv) t'tiei't this, as b\' the time the wur'^s h.a.d been run out., the gale had increased so much as to render it unsafii' to trip the anchor ; however, finding a \ ;! 1 I 106 stronp wenthcr niiTciit setting, it was weipheci, am\ the ship wni-ped into a wild looking anclionigo tor protection, in a gale of wind, no land being visible, except the low sand spit of Point Harrow and the islet nfljoiiiing, not more than five feet above the level of the sea, whicli iirokc overthetn witii great violence during th«' height of thf gale. Tliese are again guarded by the shoals lying off, on which the (h'ift ice grounds, making the anchorage when gained secure, but difficult of access or egress. Daylight next morning showed us how fortunate wc had been in getting shelter ; the gale, now veered to west, was unabated ; the sea broke heavily over the shoals passed yesterda\, and against thesandspits to within a short distance of the ship, whilst the ofting was encumbered with heavy ice, becoming gradually closer with the gale. As we found a strong current setting to windward, I had no doubt of the ship holding on, although the confined space of the anchorage did not admit veering more than thirty fathoms of cable. In the afternoon the gale began to moderate, and on the following day the ship was moved to a more secure berth, near the position selected for winter quarters, where we remained until the ice set fast on the 24th September. A succession of strong gales and thick weather for the following week retarded our preparations, consisting chiefly in collecting driftwood, not found here in any abundance. Troni this material the plank for housing-in was sawed, and the remains stacked for the winter tiring. Advantage was also taken of every opportunity to send a boat to sound the channel, knowing the difUculty of the task after tlu' ice had formed, and on its i)reaking up we should be too anxious to move with it, to have time for that })urposc. On the ^.'ith, pancake ice began to form in the hay, and drift out rai)idly with the current. A party was sent to haul the launcii up en tlic adjacent islet, to be out of reach of the natives; this service was performed by Mr. (i. T. Gordon, mate, who, when returning in the gig witli a fresh and favourable wind, was unable to push his way through the young ice, and was carried in it through the |)assage into the offing. In this distressing dilemma a si'cond boat was lowered, in which Lieutenant A'crnon promptly volunteered hi^ services, and by running out 700 fathoms of whale line t^he gig was reached, now carried some distance off ;hc land. Hy this means tliey were enabled to reacli the spit, although they had another narrow escape I'rom being carried out, by the line parting when they were close to it ; fortunately, one of the men was siiHiciently c|uick to heave the end amongst a crowd of l".s(|uiinaux, drawn to the spot by witnessing the state of our boats, and tlicv hauled them up, where they had to remain for the night, the ice being now too strong to allow us to haul the boats through it, and not sufficiently firm tor the people to walk on board. During the night the ice mo\ed but once a shtakable hint to that eilectK had circiuustances hnitted it ; biU, as we oci'U{)ii'd the didy spot ot' deep water to be found on this part of the coast, it became necessary to ;>ut u|) with the evil, hopinj^ that time and a better knowledjic uf our charai'ter would improve their conduct, and I had no doubt our winterinj;- amonj^st them would eventually be attended with bene- ficial results. 'I'he t'omnu'neement of (Uir iiUeriourse was attendi-d with many unpleasant circumstances. No sinjiie boat's crew could be at any distance from the ship without heini:; i)illert'(i from in the most darinn and tiarefaced Avay ; and upon every trivial, and olu-n without any, occasion, thi'ir knivev were drawn upon our men, who, although armed with mu>;kets, had .strict order": in no case to miikc even a show of them, unles-i ()bliu:ennnallv for tl: e ]>urposi- of >li()ot \]\, the diHieulty of dealing with lho>e collected al',)Ut her was sufhcient to emjiloy all the people lett on board, exchisi\e of the ] re.-sinii duties of the -hlu, with a small crew, at this sea-on. .\bout till' 1.5th Septendicr, they appeared to be returning to their winter huts, from their u>ual snnnner's excursion along the coast to the eastward, and, «s the .-lu'ii liy in their direct track, wi' had a \isit from all of them, including also the Cape Smyth tribi', beiui^ tiie two most numerous on any part of the coast numbi'ring to'jether about ti\c hundii-d. .\s in.any as se\en or eight large u-mi-ak- arrixi'd daily for I'iglit or nine days, containing their sunnner tents, familie-, dog-, and sledge-, \c. : they appeared perfect strangers, and looki'd in amazement at us and the ship. 'I'lu'y brought with them a small (]u;intif V of ti-h and \(ni-oii : with the hitter they jiarted reluctantly, and seemed to prefer iM-gging and -tealing (in which they were mo-t uii^cru]uilous) to any kind of ixchanixe. ( )ii the niornint; of tiie 17th I wa- informed that a iarjie u-mi-ak had ( •ome nU)iig-ide, and the er<'\v had forced their way on board. .\s tin- was not an lUiconnnon ca-e, 1 thought nothing of it when I found that i.ieut. Vernon was attending on deck, lie -oon came down to intiiiiu me that the chief of the party had a imi-ket, and w,i- \ei\ anxious to get gun])owder in exchange for renison. 'Phi- piece of information I eon-idered the worst I luid received fnong-t many unph'a-ant cirenni-tanee- that I had evperieuced, fet'ling that we could not remain amontr-t them it' thi'\ h.id tire-arm-. it will be pro|M'i' to state here that \e have at a \ery late |H'rio( 1 of our Slav n identified this chief as the same who lollowed and annoyed ( 'ommai'.'ler Pulle at Point Meren- in I's-lO. full ]>articu!ar- of which are given in his ji c'riial. i-ldei !(• ex]'re--ed a wis man, V. i sh t( me I went II]), a iiid toiiiKl a l:ir"'e, 1' i-rful. til a |ieeiiiiarly bad ex|ire--ion of countenaiice. lie had ii Hiid-on- liav irusket, with the name of IJarnett on the lock; it was ii good powder horn hiinging lumter-tiishion de [il worn, but tit lor -erv ice H. hail under hi> left arm, but pn'tended to have m itiier ball nor shot, f or w hieh h inos t pre-sing, and vvould not di-po-e of anv thinu ixeejit f or ainmumtioii. Th a- a tnatter of coiir-e, he was niipi)lied with. I -aluteil him with nmch frieiK III p, ma \\a< aiiindinir on 1 lie ii-uni>>i iv tl\(< f'vi'w hunnciK'd to hi' cleiimniT, (iischiu'irintr. and reloadint; their arms, and examining the twocarronades, at which he seemed ifl 170 to stare a good deal and went away. Several u-ini>iik8 arrived alongHide, a8 usual, during the day ; but none of the crews were .iii,)wo(l on Iioard, Some bartering WHS carried on and a tow presents made to them, hut they Heemcd to prefer adding to their stock l)v stealing to iiny exehunge. The following morning we had another early visit I'rom tl>e cliief, accompanied by iome other wading men. They brought, as a pi'iu'c offering, uU the urticleR •tolen from the ship for several days. 1 nis I considered very sutisfactor^ , and permitted them to come on board; they renuiincd the whole day, hut their conduct was altered very much for the bettor, narticidarly the old chief, who was now content to remain on the quai-ter-deck, to which tliey were restricted. I think the display of our ckaning arms before the chief on the day previous, led him to imagine wo were intent on doing them mischief, and seemed to accoiuit for this sudden change in their manner. The system of keeping them out of the ship except with ])ennissioii, and then to a very limited number only, In'ing once commenced, it was continued throughout our stay ; and although it was very ditticult to make them under- stand the necessity for it, which made it disliked, and was the cause of some ill- feeling towards us, it was impossible, through their nuinlters and want of honesty, to a were drawn as usual, and in two instances the women and children were sent away. This w as a cause of a good deal of anxiety with me, as our men being uiiarnud were very much at their mercy under such circumstances, and in the event of iinning ihein, more forbear- ance was necessary than some of tiiem w»)uld have been found to possess, from the frequent provocations they had received in return for tlie usual kindness and good nature that characterize seamen. On giving the subject every conside- ration, and seeing that it must excite an un])ie;i-ant ieeling for our men \o have knives pointed "t them without a lueans ot defence lieing at hand, the quarter-master of the watch and two petty officers of the party working on shore were armed with pistols, but propt'riv c utioned not to produce them imless under circumstances of necessity, as 1 hoped the mere knowle(ige of their having them would Ik' sutlicient. Of this we soon had an instance. One of them played ofl" one of their usual practical jokes on one of oi'r men by kicking him in the back of 17* ckof the kneefl when carrying a spar, for which he was rewarded with a blow on th 'ace ) hv then drew liis knife, when the corporal of marines coming up, and l)eing k.-own to liave a pistol, the offender inn away. These sort of annoyances continued as long as our men had work to do outside of the ship ; and when the natives were collected i.i any numbers, the difference of character displayed by them when so, and tiie reverse, is worthy of remark In the former case they are bolder and overbearing, and when meet'np with parties gather round them, and ajpparentlv in a half ])layful way, commence shoving them about and feeling their clothes, when, if they fail in getting what they want given to them, they help themsehes, and with their knives soon remove any buttons that happen to be bright. This was all done and the offenders mixed up with the rest, enjoying the thing as a ;i[ood joke before our people coidd look round them. On the contrary, when they are in small numl)cr«, they are not like the same licoplc, but seem (juiet, harmless, inoffensive, and obliging; even while displaying hcse good (lualitics, should their numbers l)ecome increased, they lose no time in throwing off' their assumed humility to join in any plunder going on. In landing our provisions, I was particularly careful to point out to the chief and other leading men, that nothing was going on shore, the nature of which they could not see, excep'. salt meat, which was really the case, and this I knew they would not eat if it was given them, and on the day that all was landed, and the house locked, I showed them the carronade, pointed at it, and told them it was to keej) tlii(!ves away, thinking that a show of preparation would have the effect of saving us from any attempt at robbery on their part; but I have every reason to believe that some of those on board at the titne were leaders in breaking into it three nights afterwards, when fortiuiatoly three sinail sails (ship's) were the onlv things they succeeded in taking away. A case of flour contained in tins, belonging to tlie officers, had been opened, but not found to be tobacco ns anticiputed, and not liking to go away empty handed, they had taken the sails. I was quite luiprepared for this tlicit, wliicli was effected in the night, notwith- standing a strict watcii liad l)oen kept from the ship and the house was visited every hour, as I had l)cen told i)y the officers of the irliip acquainted with their character, they would never attempt anything greater than pilfering small things lying about, 'i'iiis lliere was no remedy for, except keepnig a go The leading . ">i were discharging their arrows ahead of them iisthey advanced, picking tl ■ . up again as they reached them, which satisfied me tlieir visit was not friendly, and my mim! ^ c* ooon made up to keen them in check at the distance of musket range, b^ i.riiig over their neaming out. Although this affair would give then' a poor idea of us as marksmen, not appreciating our motives, I considered . .t some of them heard the ball suffi- ciently close to their cars not to wish for a rejx'tition. Mr. Simpson, the surgeon, counted seventy-one, and allows himself to have overlooked ten ; he computes the nuinlK-r at eighty, iK-sides several stragglers, a computation I consider as near as could be ol)taiiied. The chief, with another man, stayed about the ship for some time ; but as no compromise short of the immediate return of our stores was contemplated, he was not allowed to rcniHin long. My having his gun was an advantage I could hardly have expected, and as its value to him was far greater thin anything they had stolen iVom us, I was content to wnit the result of his iiitcrferencc, in the meantime not allowing any of them within gunshot untii everything was returned. On the following day we had a pacific message, to the efiect that they were all asleep that day. but on the next all our things would Ik' brought down. They had not left the spot they had advanced to, when I took a party away from the ship to try the range of the gun in a sledge, and to find how it would answer. I was glatf they saw us mano-uvring it, and as they still remained alter motioning them to go away, a musket was fired wide of them as a hint to l)c off and report what they had seen, w liicli I hojK'd would have the efiect of ■■ 178 importance to us ; but the act wuh the same and required checking, ic- other thingfl we might t'eel the Kwn of tthould be stolen aUo. I wa» told the party ■ecmed in evinent tre|)i(lati()n. 'I'hc sailn had Iwen cut into Hcveral pieces, adapted in (tize I'or their u-nn-aks' suilH, and had been m-rved out amongst tlie party. This would account for the difficulty the cliiel iiad in getting ti>ein returned, witliout having a Nlight brush for them previously. All the pieces were most ingeniously drawn together by the women, wln) had l)een employed the previous day and night about them, which occasioned the day'« delay in their Wing returned. As it was necessary, wliil< we were settling matters, to have a full resti- tution of everything stolen from ti shij) mid boats since our arrival, a careful inquiry was made to find out everv missing article; and as these included almost all the ironwork of the launch, which had been cut almost to pieces in the most vexatious way while turned bottom up on the adjacent island, I was the more disposed to push this point. When the lull extent was known, the chief was acquainted that every 1 1' must be returned prcvioi ^ to his getting his gun, or the natives alio*" d to cu. c near the ship, lie then left and returned next morning with every missing article, when his gun was restored to him, and the native* usual. 1 had the curiosity to examine the charge of his gun whiNt it could hav dm ainmunitiun. I made hir i s a partaker in very industriu IukI been obligt thieves to give up hand of them witiiou in oin 'i.inds, and found it us well loaded with bull ' < vt 'ir ' ',, although he had previously told us he h'.< i ,. ,,•1 M- •nt of tobacco U,r his trouble, as I believe h^ , a " ! gave one of his wives a knife, as she had bf •.•. g tue sails together. He made us understand that he knife, as well as his authority, to compel some of the ire oi' the booty. I was glad to have got the upper V further trouble on our part, as, independent of the more important moti\i > before mentioned, our own travelling parties might be seriously inconvenieiued from being at variance witii them. Notwithstanding these considerations it is most iiecessnrv for our preservation with such II |)eople to establish respect from them by a moderate resistance upon any undue encroachment on their part. Had we not Iteen emplosed on a service essentially of peace, I should have taken a party up to their settlement in the way of retaliation, on tiiiding they had broken into our store. 1 am not certain that it would not have been the better plan in the present ease, as kindness and lorbearance are not umierstood by them, particularly after being fired upon once or twice without receiving any injury, they are likely to form an erroneous opinion as to the power of fire-arms, many of the preseiii party, including the chief, being the same who followed Commander I'ullen so pertmueiously ulongthe Uetuni lleef of Sir John Franklin, when the system of avoiding firing at them was adopted until the last eytreniity, and with the same good fortune in not sacrificing any lives. As an insiance of their ingratitude, I found many who were engaged in the robbery of the house were of those who had Ix^en allowed on board every day, and hacl received con- siderable presents with the view of making friends of them in the event of our requiring a kindness in return. Whilst our misunderstanding was unsettled a further enclosure was marked out to include the ship, house, and observatory. Hound this a stout hawser was supported on small triangles, and in no instance during the remainder of our stay was this boundarv, which necessity had given us good excuse for establishing, allowed to be infringed upon, A few trouble- some characters, such as will be found in all large communities, gave annoyance occasionally for a month or two by shoving each other purposely inside the boundary. When finding tiieir tricks provoked hard blows, little more trouble was given in this wuy. Out intercourse fnmi this time went on smoother, and the Ksquimaux, feeling themselves in error, seemed to make many friendly overtures to regain our CvSteem. Some of these consisted in bringing down their tambourines alongside, and dancing and singing in large numbers. In this they had, in some degree, anticipated my intentions, as the oflicers were at the same time engaged in printing a notice for the lower deck of a " Native Dance," intended to be given in three days' time, with the view of showing them we bore no ill-will, and wished for a friendly intercourse ; and us it was to be the commencement of our winter festivities, and headed " (Jreat Novelty," it had the desired ettect of producing I m V- ^ '\\ ovktiiijmi •tir\ll(ru f *hl Y 3 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /y ^^ .S^^dp. 1.0 I.I ■^ 1^ ill 2.2 III 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► 'J ^ v: '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation »qO '^y.:^ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 /!^* d upon a smooth boarded floor, alwut l6ft. by 10ft. ; the roof was seven feet high, and in the centre was a small squire skylight, covered with transparent whale membrane. The transition from the daylight and glare to the dark passage wasi siudden, and in some degree prepared our eyes for taking in at the first glance ^'bp nn- pearonce within. We were placd in the centre of the hut ; the chief, with a wife on each side of him, sat opposite to as. There were four or five 3'oung men, and two women with children, lying alwut the floor, all naked to the waist, the children perfectly so. The first breath of the interior was ratiicr oifcnsive, but we so(m got accustomed to it, an]i^ ta his wishes. Ailter this attempt at a friendly intercourse, we all ceased going to the villat^e for upwards of two months ; when seeing no inclination on the part of the men to renew their visit, I found if we pursued the system of holding back, a valuable opportunity would be lost of acquiring a knowledge of their habits which it would be interesting to In-comc acquainted with, and for this purpose the officers ■gain went occasionally to the settlement, taking care to go with some influential man who kept away those inclined to be troublesome. This was again very soon put a stop to, by our not allowing the man to come to the ship who had behaved so badly when our men were at the huts, and in enforcing this measure we went near to having another afi'ray with them. He had been to the ship several times since the occurrence took place, and on being told, always went away. On the occasion in (juestion, he evidently intended to remain and to get up a disturbance if possible. The chief, who was on board, seeing this, went outside and tried to get him away, to no avail, and another chief tried also. The title of " chief" given here is merely nominal, as in a commu- nity where every man has to pivviue for his ov.-n wants, the most industrious, 1 ^ I m bold, nnd succcsshil hunter iK'c-omes, from the property he possesses, of more consideration than those not possessing those qualities, but this does not extend beyond his own boat's crew or hunting party for the time being. Seeing thia man was resolved to remain whether we pleased or not, I thought it necessary to have our own way as to who should visit the ships or who not, and as his conduct was well known to his countrvraen, and condemned by many of them, his case was a good one to enforce. The great objection to anv sort of disturb- ance, was the difficulty of making the well disposed understanc^ our motives, or the separation of one from the rest as bad, and these cases rarely occurred, except when they were collected in large numbers, which made them imagine thev could do as" they pleased. While tlie altercation was going on outside, the natives on Iwaid, of whom there were several, began to leave the ship, although most of them had been visitors and declared friends, without, as it appeared, possessing any confidence in us. I then directed Lieutenant Vernon to go out, and once more tell him to go away. The natives thinking he was the leader of an attacking party — two-thirds of the men, and all the women and children walked straight away for the village, leaving the bad character in the minority, which he had sufficient tact to discover, and followed the others, when quietness was again restored — and those who had made such a hasty retreat out of the ship were now anxious to return again, but others were chosen in preference from those who had remained as spectators, and were apparently indiffii'rent. The crew were at dinner at the time and they were not disturlK>d, as our state, with regard to anns, is one of constant readiness. The chief afterwards told me very impressively not to go to the village, a privation very little felt personally, but showing the absence of control on the part of the chiefs when our being at variance with one individual of bad character put an end to a friendly commu- nication between us and a whole tribe. He continued to make us visits at intervals, of two or three days, when to put a stop to them, on one occasion, when Lieutenant Vernon had with great good nature and patience walked with him a considerable distance from the ship and letl him to return, he followed him back leisurely ; when I saw there was no means of dealing with him by kindness, and ordered two marines witii muskets outside, on the ice, to prevent his further advance to the ship. On seeing them he seemetl to fly into a great ^tate of excitement, and presented his breast to \k fired at, when one or two well-disposed individuals took him away, and he did not repeat his ^•isits again for some time ; when l)eing told by the chiefs that he was now goo became detached and drifted into the ojM^n water. They were saved from this perilous situation by the chance of its being again brought in contact with the land floe. Although the weather was very severe, so perfect is their clothing, that the only injury they received was some frost-bites about the face : as thev were without ftxxl, a description of their sufl'erings would be one of thrilling interest, if we could understand their language sufficiently to appreciate it. A short time afterwards, on a general break up of the ice, one man was carried away and lost, i'^inding he had left u wite and two children, I sent a messagv^ 177 to her to come to the ship, and on making her some useful presents, I endeavoured to have explained to a party assembled that our business here was looking after people who were also in the ice, hoping it would have a tendency to gain their assistance and friendship in favour of any of our parties tnuelling along the coasts they frequent. - Several stratagems were tried to find out if we were on the look-out at night ; small parties, generally two or three women, came alongside, and on being sent away, would make some excuse of goini; out sealing, or some such pretence, to keep in our neighbourhood, but our watch was always too vigilant for them. One man was caugiit in tlie middle watch, coming out of a tent erected over a theo- dolite on the ice close to the ship, and was brought on board a prisoner. As he had not been able to steal anything the case was not strong enc/Ugh to inflict any punishment on him, and he was permitted to go away the following day at noon, with the promise of a good thrashing if he was caught again. While he was on board only four or five women, and the chief came near us. I was glad to see the latter, as he witnessed our leniency on the occasion, but he seemed indifferent as to whether we iiad punished him or not. This detection put a stop to their nightly excursions and left us unmolested. A few of them from the first showed disinterested partiality to us, which was appreciated, and they were invited to sleep on board on a few rare occasions. For some time they were nervous about it, but umstered courage enough after a little time. My object in allowing them to do so was to give them confidence and let them see some more of our habits, which I thought would raise us in their estimation. In the early part of February we were startled by a native report that a large ship with a great mnny men was wintering to the southward at Point Hope. A Earty Iwlonging to Cape Smyth had lately returned from Point Hope (a journey ■equently made by them in the winter), and had, it was said, been on board the ship ; but knowing it to be an impossibility for a ship to winter there, not much attention was paid to it, Iwyond thinking there generally exists some grounds for such reports, and when well sifted they can sometimes be traced out. The f resent report seemed to be a forerunner of a party of natives belonging to 'oint Hope, who arrived at Point Barrow about this time, and soon afterwards visited the ship. The information received from them was of there being a large ship somewhere to the south with very little men on board ; whether we mistook their " little" for few — or most likely it was one of many such stories these people have amongst them from the habit of repeating them one to the other without reference to the d; te, as in this case, if the story mentioned was traced to its source, it would most likely prove to be some whaler visited by them in the summer. This circumstance is mentioned to account for the way reports are carried along a great extent of coast by natives meeting for a short time for the purpose of barter, and at considerable distances from their respective settlements, when, as may naturally lie supposed, an interchange of news takes place, and thus becomes extended onwards subject to such change of version as the repeating tribes are likely to give it, making it necessary to consider their reports well before taking much notice of them, unless accompanied by some token of their authoiity. The chief of this party was a pleasing, spirited man, about thirty-five years of age, and was accompanied by his two wives, who were good-looking young- women. He had come on a bartering expedition to dispose of some copper kettles, iecei\ing glutton skins in exchange. He recognised Mr. Simpson, the surgeon, as having seen him at Hotham's Inlet, and he was also familiar with the name of Captain Moore and some of the former officers of the ship. He described his journey to us, of which I was anxious to get the particulars. He had slept fifteen times, eight of them on the snow, but he showed no signs of having suffered from coid. He described the sea as being open all along the coast to the southward, but he was not familiar with ships, which I accounted for by the lowness of the land about Point Hope deterring the whalers from closing it, otherwise there are many in that latitude in the summer. He seemed to be a poet, and favoured us with an extempore song of sonu- length, which included the nunie of the ship and some of our own. Ilo afterwards passed his hand down his stomach several times, expressive of great friendship, and then fixed his forehead against mine, and used it as a fulcrum to rub nosc;. several times, a ceremony not very agreeable in his heated state iioiu sincing Ml' il' < i 1 i 1 J7X A chief of this place waj< of the party, wliich made liitn feci quite at bis ease, otherwise they are mistrustful on the rirst visit. He described his people's barter with tiie Asiatics of the opposite coast (the Tchuk-chi, or as they call it, Tsau-chu) to consist of the martin (sable), fox, wolverine, wolf, and bear* skins, and sometimes whale oil and fish ; for which they j?et in exchange kettles, tobacco, beads, knives (Russian), and walrus teeth. While he remained he was a welcome and constant visitor. The southern natives arc far more au^rceable than those to the northward, wlui have been rarely visited ; the otticers speak of the former as more fi^rateful and modest, j)articularly the females, while the latter are thoua;ht im])udent and unj^rateful. On leaving, he sung of the g(K)d name he should give the ship on his way down the coast, which will Ik- of liencfit to our boats on their expedition to ('ape Lisburne. About the middle of Fel)ruary a great many of the natives removed into the interior to hunt the reindeer, found very numerous on these vast plains, which form the north-western termination of America. As I was curious to see some- thing of the country and their mode of living at this inclement season, I thought my making an excursion to their hunting grounds would show we placed every confidence in them. I accordingly left the ship on the ist March, accompanied by Mr. Gordon, mate, two seamen, with a native guide, and sledge drawn by SIX dogs, carrying tents, guns, and provisions. Our route into the interior was S.S. W. (true) across snowy plains, differing little in appearance from the bay ice, except on the approach to a lake, when the rise liecame more sudden, and being exposed to the sweeping winds, grass was occasionally seen in spots through the snow, offering, with deer of which we saw a great many, the only thing worthy of notice. Three days anil a half heavy travelling brought us to ao encampment on the bank of a river. They had a hole through the ice, which we found to be seven feet thick, and reaching within one of the bottom. Their houses difl'ered from tho.ie descril)ed by Captain Parry, in l)eing excavated in the snow lodged on the river, the ice of which formed a iH.-rfectly even floor. 'J'heir position from outside was only observable by seeing the implements of chase belonging to the owners in a gnmp over the top. We found them in no instance wanting in kindness, but their character for begging had not fallen off', since leaving Point Barrow. Their mode of killing the reindeer is novel, and such as luture has pointed out. The country is so open that they have no have no means of approaching tlw animals imder any cover ; the>' therefore dig deep pits in the snowy ravines, selecting places where the surface is even, to cover thein lightly over with slabs of snow. The moment the animal puts his feet upon them he is precipitated into the pit, the depth of which is tw) great for him to h-ap fW)m. Having effected my purpose of visiting and going amongst them, 1 returned to the ship after an absence of seven days, 'i'he position of the place by astro- nomical observations was S. 4(1, W. 38 miles from the ship. Nothing further worthy of remark occurred in our intercourse, unti I was setting out on a journey along the coast to the eastward, when some of the worst disposed tried to deter a young man from accompanying me as guide by threatening to follow and murder us when we slept, the guide amongst the number, upon whom it appeared to have no effect, Ijcyond his repeating the story and aavising that the men should not Ik- allowed into the ship during my absence. This report made it evident that the fact of our force being divided had been talked of, and I felt sorry our residence amongst them for so long had produced no better feeling, but I considered it necessary to show we were capable of defending ourselves, and travelling when were found it necessary. If this was not established, our position, confined to the shin by a tribe of unanned savage.s, would not be very flattering. With these feelings I set out on my journey, well satisfied with the resources of my party, and with the judgment and dis- cretion of the ofticer ( Lieutenant Vernon ) in whose charge the " Plover" was left. On my return, after an af)sence of twenty-five days, I was glad to find every- thing going on as favourably as possible. The natives were returning from the interior in large numbers, and the day previous, "i/th of April, as many as 40 filedges with [y.i [K'opie crossed the bay to the village, from the hunting grounds. From this time we procured an abundant supply of venison, the only instance during our stay of receiving any benefit from our proximity to them. It lasted nearly two months, and had the effect of restoring for a time the health of the crew, previously much debilitated and exposed to scurvy. iii 179 The appearance of this disenHe was attrihiitahlc to the great inequality in the character of some of the provisioiiM, in the older supplies of preserved meats and flour ; and it became necesHmy to diseontiniio the use of beef altogetlier, and to increase the issue of the last supply of preserved meats and preserved potatoes. The season for their whale fisliin^r was now approncliing, and commenced on the 7th of May; the distance to the open water was about four miles W. (true) of Point "Barrow. On the 1 ith, hearing tliev had caurs and lakes of which we were ignorant. The first stage of the journey is the Colville, and occupies ten days, where they meet a friendly tribe of Esquimaux, called Nuna-tag-miutes (supposed by Messrs. Dease and Sinijison to be a name for the Russians), but there is no doubt of their being Esquimaux and wearing the lip ornaments peculiar to them. They confine themselves to the rivers and land from which their name it) derived. " Nuna" (land), and have a communication through the rivers of the Z 2 IM i:|l| iHfl i . ! interior to the coast, about HothamV Inli-t, iis oiir informant told ua he hod met 11 woman two succi-ssive si-usons at the Colvillc, who hud Iwcn frequently aboard tills ^liip in Kotzclme Sound in the winter of IH-IJ), and had travelled from there through till' interior without havinjj; touchc*! ujMin the intermediate eoast. The journey to the Colville is anticipated in them with nuich uleaHure, particularly this year, «is they freiiuently spoke of tellinjj; of the wonclers seen on board this ship, in athlition to the pleasing thoughts of feasting and dancing they were to enjoy with their friends. From thenee a select party extend themselves to Barter Island, the women accompanying them to withm a day'« journey of meeting the eastern people, when the men advance and conclude their business as expeditiously as |M)ssible. They give an amusing account of the nuitual distrust that exists between the two parties. The western people never sleep while they are in sight of the eastern, and all bargains swni to l)e made knite in liand. The articles and system of bartering appear to Ik* as descrilH'd by .Sir John Franklin, but I think later writers on the subject have supposed tliat Russian goods tind their way to the north coast from posts on the Colville, which we have not been able to verify. This tril)e receives lUissian (SilK-rian) articles trom the I'oint lloix! people, previously alluded to, which they convey to the eastward and exchange for Knglish knives procured from the Hudson's May ])()sts, but there is no intermediate supnlv from the Russians that we could hear of The journey east from the ("olviUe takes them ten dayti, which they describe as being made always against the wind ; and the return to Point Harrow to Point Herens occupies little more than two, which they speak of sleepinjf in the boats and allowing them to drift i)efbre the wind; this would make it appear that easterly winds must In- very prevalent in the early part of August. Mr. Simpson, who has taken much pains to inform himself on the subject, consider* the ^.'ith of July the time of their departure from the Colville; this has been further established by the fact of the party who attacked Commander Pullen on the f)th of August at Return Reef, liemg then on their return from liarter Island. The time of their annual visit never ditfering probably three days, as we Have found them generally as accurate in that way as if tiiey wen- aiquainted with date.N. From this information it may Ix! concluded that the Ks(]uiniaux make one third of their summer joumies, by carrying their boats over the ice, — before a ship or her boats become available, which gives them a season so much longer, at a time when the weather is very favourable, — tiiis will have U'eii pointed out to them by necessity, from the shortness of the season of ojhmi water, which if they contined themselves to, it would limit their excursions to a very short range. Their return for the winter takes pinee, as we have seen, about the Kith SeptemlRT, and seems to end their labonr^^ 1 ir the year. Two (lays after receiving the above intbrmation, May 2()th, a native man was observed outside the ship wearing a small canvass bag with an address written on it, — "To the Chief Trader of the Russian settlement, N. America," — which caused c(msi(lcrable curiosity on our parts, and on making further enquiries he told us he had the paper in his hut that was originally in it, on which he was despatclied with the promise of a large rewani of tobacco if he brought it to the ship. Some hours afterwanls he returned with two torn pieces of paper, com- plaiu'ng that his little girl had destroyed the rest ; fortunately, the most important part was preserved, which has l)cen enclosed. This information is so far safisfactory, as it shows Commander M'Clure to have l)een making his passage along shore, which has been further confirnie/i-, — that he had shot a native alongside the ship, and on hurrying outside I found the man was shot through the head, and must havo died instiintaneousiy. The man who had been the cause of the luilooked-for event showed i)y his manner that it had been an accident, and upon making some further inijuiries, I found that several natives had arrived alongside the ship previous to the time they were allowed, and although desired on that account to go away several times, they could not be induced to do so, and the quarter master of the watch took out a fowling piece in his han(l, in order to frighten them, and when motioning with it tor them to go away, it went o(f and lodged the contents of the barrel in the back part of the poor man's head. The remainder of the party, live or six, ran away so speedily that there was no means of overtaking them, and the body being left, it became necessary to con- sider the best means of disposing of it. We soon afterwards removed it to such a distance from the ship that the natives could advance to it without fear of us, and the same time it gave no pretext for coming any nearer to the ship. When this had been done, and a large quantity of tobacco left with the body as an intimation of our friendship, all that we could do was to hope that some of our friends amongst them would still have sufficient confidence to come down and give us an opportunity of explaining tiiis affair. In this expectation we were not disappointed, us two of the cliief men came to the ship at once, having, before leaving the settlement, exerted their influence to quiet the people in their first outbreak. One of these men, who was rcmurkable tor his intelligence, was made to comprehend the possibility of such an accident ; and great pains were taken to show him, that the charge was shot intended for birds, not men. When this impression was established we recpjested them to go back and explain it to the [)eople. By the tinv they had arrived at the place where the body had been eft, a great many hud collected, amongst them the wife and friends of the lui- fortunatc deceased, but who I was glad to find had left no children. They sat round, and appeared deeply engaged in conversation for about two hours, listening, as we supposed, to the explanation ; then they seemed to examine the body, and his own deer skips having been brought down, he was Avrapped in them and placed on a sledge ". hich was drawn by his wife leading and four men, one following, across the bay i> he cemetery, near Point Barrow. None of the others accompanied the processi' n. A few of them came as usual alongside the ship, but as they were for the most part of those known not to be friendly to us, our jHJople were kept on board to avoid any treacherous retaliation. During the day I was gratified to find the wives of the principal chiefs came on board, and expressed their sorrow al the absence of their husbands, who were at the open water looking after whale ; but they had been sent for, and were coming on board as soon as they returned. They told us also that all work was stopped for five days, the women not being allowed to sew for that time, which seems to be a general custom on the occasion of any deaths, and remarlvcd that we ought not to have any hammering on board for the same time ; and as I was anxious td show every sympathy in our power, the caulkers at work outside were ordered to cease work, and the ensign hoisted half-mast, the meaning of which was explained and understood by them. In the evening one of the chiefs who had been first down after the accident visited us with his wife, and brought the intelligence that a diversion existed in the camp as to revenging themselves on us, but as the chiefs were unwilling to favour it, it seemed probable nothing of the sort would be attempted. However, proper precautions were taken to avoid any surprise, particularly as a thick fog at the time of sleep favoured such a design. r im On the foHowinff day 'Jx- four rhicfn, with thrir wivrx, nme on bean), whrn, with the asHistancT u^ the ortic-crM, thi- whole- artair whk again rxplainril, which they scfiiu-d to coniprfhcnd, and apjx iired to i-ntcrtaiii no fear of going hc>low as usual whon ankcd. W»' wort' (piitc awaro of thrir inability to control individnaU, hut they huvi' to u if rtaiii dcgnr a good di>al of sway, and rccoin- mended us to make presents to all the people who lived in the Hamc house as the deecafied, and eautioned us not to stray away from the neigh Ixiurhood of the Hhip, as the fiTling of a gn-at many of them was uncertain. ( )n their leaving they were made presents, and desin'd to bring the house party to the ship at the expiration of Hve days, the time they strictly omtine themselves to the houne, and I U'lievc are seldom intruded upon. I'hev arrived at the ship in due time, munlK'ring as many as ten, accompanied by the chiefs. 'I'hc widow was young, anil iteemcd in umirtrcted grief, which the large presents ahe received did not dissipate.' ; but tinu* and a continual course of kindness on our parts brought her to forget her loss so far that >he regretted to me, and I lielieve in sincerity, the thoughts of the ship going away. Our intercourse from this tinu-, as might Ik* expected, could not hn- conducted with the same satisfaction it had previously been, although no tn)uble or inconvcMience was spared to do away with their unfavourable impression. The views they entertained of the case very much asMisted a reconciliation, as they had no idea of any such thing as a general con- trol exiMting amongst us ; the act was set down as purely an individual one, and the whole fault of it attributed to the man as an act of his own, while they seemed to consider the remainder not in any way concerned in it. About fourteen days atler the occurrence a large collection of people had assembled at Point Barrow to witness some dancing festival previous to setting out to the eastward. A party I'rom Cape Smyth ullerwards endeavoured to get up an united force to attack the ship without Iwing able to succeed. However, the chief and a good many of the Point Barrow people wishing to make a merit for which to be rewarded, of their not joining o.r enemies, I was obliged to tell them I should be very sorry if the people <'aine dov.n with bows to the ship again, but if they did, a good many would be killed. This appears to have put an end to it, aa we were next told of the departure of the hostile party, and were not troubled with any more reports of that description. We now watched with some anxiety the preparations for the departure of the natives, as as the time was approaching for the departure of our l>oats for Cape Lisburne, and their transit «>ver the ice could not 1r' effected without some risk of interruption until their numliers became decreased, so that we were much f>lea8ed to see them in a state of forwardness. On .July 4th they commenced eaving, and continued to follow for three successive days. Kach party halted to sleep near the ship to have an opportunity of begging from us till the last moment, and as I hud prepared some printid papers for them to distrilmte among the eastern Ks(|uiinaux at Barter Island, they were treated with every indulgence; and those entrusted with the printed papers received a present t)f tobacco, some buttons, prepared in England, In-aring informati(m conceniing the Arctic search, and some otner small trifles to keep them reminded of their charge, which they faithfully promised to pass on. 1 redeemed a long-made promise to the chief, giving him some gimpowder. I think it had a gcwid cHect, by showing we had no fear of them ; and I was fully aware he had a sufficient quantity for mischiev- ous purposes, as his gun, when in our p)ssession, was found well loaded with ball-cartridge. I accompanied one party a short distance on their journey to see if 1 could gain any useful hints for our own iKiats. 'i'he "cKvini-aks" were secured on small sledges, and seemed to Ik* easily drawn by three people. The principal part of their barter, t^whalc-blublH-r and seal-oil,) was carried on small truck- sledges, drawn by the women and dogs, the men seeming t^) confine tiiemselves to the charge of the boats; but at lanes of water and different passes they mutu- ally assist each other. The rate of travelling whilst moving was expeditious, but they made frequent halts to smoke, and iH-fbie I left them, although near their place of encampment, they ate a hearty meal. Jk'tween the 4th and 7th of July, as many as twenty seven to thirty "oo-mi- aks," accompanied by 150 people, pa.s.scd to the eastward, much to our satisfac- tion, as it left us with comparatively few to trouble us in our preparations for seudiiig away the bcato. 'MS On thf 7th 1 made an oxrarsioii acnHs the bay to obnervc the state of the KtMi-itv, and walked two iiiilcH to the westward in the offlnjj; without bcinj? able t»P'*^' ••* "I"'" witer in any dircetion from the hif^hest luiniinock. Thin made ine form the idea of taking the boatH over the ice to the Houtliwurd \intil we fell in with it. On the moriiinK <>* tlu' !)th I Kit the Hliip willi the ^ig and whale-boat intended for ('ajH' l.iNbume. They wen- |)lace«l «)n two stron>( sledges drawn by their own erews and ollicers, Lieiitinant Vernon an;l Mr. (Jordon (mate), asHisted by an auxiliary |)arty of ten, inchidiiijr myself and the carpenter, making tip twentv in all. Thirty-tonr days' proviHions for the boats' crews, clothing, amnnmition, iVc. was carried on two native sledKCs drawn by do^s, a third conveying provisions for the auxiliary party, i'arts of the transit over the ice waH atten(h-d with difficulty, and the whole was very laborious, requiring the utmoat strength of all the parties, assisted at times by natives, and for two diys by a strong and favourable l)r('e/e, enabling u^ to make sail on the lM)ats, which lightened the laboni- very nnich. Travelling to the southward for three days the ojx-n water ap|K'arc() within two miles of the beach at what seemed a most eligible place for laimching the boats. I walked, accompanied by Lieutenant Vernon, to the open water, but the hunnnocks intervening seemed to offer too great an obstacle to the transit; however on the following morning, July 12th, as the weather was favourable I decided to attempt it, and suc- ceeded in launching the boats safelv at noon. They sckhi after shoved off with a favourable breeze, which they held for eight hours only. On the I. 5th, whilst calculating on the progress they might have made, a party of people were observed coming down at 8 o'clock in the evening, tracking an " oo-mi-ak," and on making out some of «)ur people amongst them our astonishment was so great we could hardly believe ()ur eyes. I went without loss of time to meet them, not in a very agreeable state of mind; but when I counted the full nund)er of the party I wi:* comparatively easy. It appears that on the night of the i:Jtli, finding the ice closing on them tfiey managed to get the Iwats on to the floe, and fancied themselves safe althcmgh drifting to the northward. The ice continued to press in towards the land, crushing the tloc and piling it up to nearly twenty feet in height, and ut length the floe gave way beneath them, and the gig was partly filled with pieces and could not be withdrawn further towards the land. The whaler, a lighter boat, was also stove, and as she could not be brought further the whole party were obliged to make the best of their way ti> the !>hore betbri' tht ice should ease off", as it seemed inclined to do, and leave them on detached pieces. Fortunately the danger, so imminent, was of that slow but overwhelming nature that they had time to provide themselves with three days' preserved meats, and their arms and ammunition, with which thev were enabled to reach the ship. I have forwarded Lieutenant Vernon's journal, which will show their Lordships how that officer and his companion, Mr. (iordon, ac(|uitted themselves on the occasion ; and I have much satisfaction in mentioning the high terms in which he spoke of the conduct of the crews, not a man of whom expressed his opinion until they had decided on deserting the boats, when from their manner he concludes they thought it high time, and he further descrilxis them as obedient, cool, and intrepid from the commencement of the danger until their return on board. The loss of the ship's l)oats was a heavy misfortune, but when it was considered the whole party had found their way safely to the ship, we were too much rejoiced to give a look of regret after the boats, which could not have been saved. Two days after the return of the boat party I had serious thoughts of despatching another in a native " oo-mi-ak," to keep our appointment at Cape Lisburne ; but on weighing the matter maturely, 1 gave up the idea as by no means in our power could it reach the rendezvous by the appointed time ; and as the ship would be obliged to wait for the return of the party, the delay would render it impossible to regain this ))lace as a winter station, in the event of its being so ordered. With these considerations, and a present prospect of an early release, I thought it better not to divide our small force at a time when the services of every one would l)e required to extricate the ship, and to take tiie earliest opportunity of going to the south in order to recruit the health of the ship's company. As early as July 25th we were enabled to swing the ship for local attraction, Z 4 . iii 1M li * ( \ I and the ice litiviiiK el(>«r'>tl uwny for n coiiHidcrnhlc npace in our ncighlwurhood, wi- iiiovtd i'lto the Hiiiway to Ih' rnidy lui »lir first <)|H'iiing in tlu" otHiig. 'I'ho imlivt •< l)rt)tl^llf us u n-poit tins m short- at ihi- Siii llorsi- Islandx, and tlair contents niadi- u prize of l)y a suidl |)arty, who siKrirdiMl in lirin({iiig tin* \i,\v, to tht- land. On our passa^f (h)\vn, iKiilin^ closi- alon^; slioro, sonic natives l)rou^ht the shell of the l)<)at olV, cxchanjfin^ her readily for a native " oo-ini-ak " wc had providetl our- selves with in the mean time. In watching the dissolution of the h:iy ice, we had flattered ouritclves tbix •ouNoii was fourteen days iH-fore the lust, which it really was in tiu thinnesw of the ice; hut from the ahscnce of stroni; winds it renwuned stationary, at a time when the sea was o|Hn the |)ri"cedinj; year. Kvery day, at this period (the end of July) seemed to etVect a marked change in the ice, ami on the MOth a per«'eptil)le motion to the northward was ohservi'd in some of the heavy munniocks in the otlii% and a lane of water sutiieient for the ship was found by Mr. Mull (second master; whom I sent to tiliserve the state of the ice to itenward. In cose, and I tidly cx|Hcted to retmn in tlie evening and get under weigh, hut on approaching Cape Smyth I had the mortification to find tliehuu'of v*ater terminate so close with the shore, that a native "nii-ak" could not have pas.sed. 'Ihis was one of the disap|H)intments of ice na\igation which teaches one patimee, and reipiiivs to he borne with, in addition to others wc arc liable to, even imder favourable circumstances. From the Isttothetith of .\ugust an officer was sent each (hiy to CajH' Smyth to bring the earliest iiUelligence ot any change in t)ur favour, but each (h«y brought the same luiwelcome report, that the ice was still close with the ihore ami no open water to Ih- seen. It sa-ms a strange complaint in thetie latitudes, Ixit the fineness of the |)re-ent season was the eauw- of our detention. During the moiuh of .Fidy the wind was ngistered one day from five to nix in force; for foiu- days four ; and the remaining twenty-six barely averaged two, proving the extrc-me of fine wt-ather to Ik- a greater obstacle in moving masses of ice than the reverse- slate of it. On the 7th, a fri-sh breeze from the eastward gave me some ho|K-s of a change in our favour; and on visiting Cape Smyth I observed a narrow lane of water extending a> far as the eye could reach to the southward. On getting on board at H i'.M.,we left our anchorage, wlu-re we had foiuid shelter for eleven months and four days, siven days later in the sc-ason than Captain I'arry had In-en »-nai)led to leave Melville Island. We carried a favourable breeze for eight hours, and had made con>iderable progress, when the wind slutted to S.W., with thick weather and heavy rain, which made it ditlicult to avoid coming in contact with the ice from the narrowness of the chamu-1 we had to beat in. A contimni- tion of thick weutlu-r and light contrary winds on flic following day prevented our making any progress; and in the afKriUHiii, finding we were losing ground, I made fast to a large tloi-piece, when wc found the drift to be one mile an hour, east, In-ing \erv nearly in tlu- opjiosite din-ction to our course. After a few- hours we were enabled to cast off, on a light wind springing up from the north- ward, and run along shore to tlu- S.W. ; but the ice had Ik-coiuc gradually closer during the few liours of westerly winds, and we had nuu-h difticidty in picking our way during the night as a thick log privailed. On the following morning, August 9th, the outer edge of the land flo*.- in the depth of I'eard May was found to extend uid)roken from the land to a distance of nine miles, and the ice outside seemed too close to offer us a passage in the desired direction ; but as the wind was fresh and favouralile, the ship was forced into open water by 10 a.m., having sustained some se\ere but unavoidable shocks in doing so. I was now anxious to keep close in with the land, in order to stop any lM>ats that might Ih.- making their way to Point Harrow in coiise(|iienci- of our failing to reach ('a|)e Lisburue; and at '1 p.m., in j)assing tlu- Sea Horse Islands, we got into three fathoms in endeavouring to dose the shore lor the |)urpose of sending a boat to put up u mark, whiili we were not able to accomplish, as the win'-<^ // " /( I i II II (> r I u n il .V 1 1' t II f Kfi If II I HI II ii'i' CHART () r |iar( <>r I II (' .\lii» nil/ i/ir II iiiiK v-^ II y\. .^ . r I, D ^' K K . i/uriiiii l/ii Minlli.i , /' Miirr/i run/ .\/iri/ , 1853. Willi i/ii /iiti.'i Xii/iii i/iii//tiiiii "III III / s.iH l(,i Mil,/ mill l/iit r"'^''<"/ ' ••• '''"■ ■i'"."'i '■" I'l" """•' '' ''"'■'■ '"' "■" ''" ""■'•■■■'''" '1 --■)-- ■/•./(//■ Iyitrrr,n,-rd I ,v,a /■hr//„.^/ Xcrlh I "^''^ ■t"' -- tc 4-.7Ll.„ /T iv* S\i II I hs if' the Cc I V, (If .Si gluv I I t " /..,;' i.if m' ±%: iififitiir !),, i liliiiTi.i, ,:ii/i/ III/ I'liiii tiriii III llii- /H .iitu'll b\ tJii.-^ ('Ililil hill- Iflf XiiUve.^ will' 1111,1 I, riiii/. Itfi ii.s k/ii nil.', .rg-like termination. At 6 P.M. I landed to examine a remarkable conical heap of shingle, not unlike a cairn, as it peered alwve the snow. It seemed to have iK'cn thrown up at the outlet of a water-course to the sea, the Ix-d of which was now dry ; but the cleft in the ridge of rocks through which it passed was roofed over with ice and snow, forming a caveni iK'neath. On entering, a Ix-autiful grotto disclosed itself, the floor glittering with countless globular masses of frozen drops of water, and the root' with pendant icicles clear as rock crystal. Tlie interior of the cave, which exteniled to a greater distance than I had leisure to follow it up, was so encrusted over with these aqueous stalactites and stalagmites, that tlie whole surface sparkled through the faint gleam of light adioitted, as brilliantly as if studded with huge diamonds. The weather suddenly cleared up fine, but the wind shitYing round to N.N.W. dead against us, hemmed us in Ix'tween the ice and the land, within a bight, leaving open water in mid-channel, from which we were cut off by a l)elt of lieavy fltw-pieces, margined by nmch sludge, and alx)ut half a mile in breadth. Our further progress l)eing thus arrested, we landed at 7 I'.m. to take our tea, in the hope that by the time that we had finished this refreshing repast, a passage might nave opened out for us. At H p.m., however, the ice was jununiMg us int;) the cur\o in the coast closer than ever. I therefore determined on making an attempt to force the boat through it, bv poling her along witli the oars and Iwarding pikes. In this way we succeeded m getting about half way through, when the swell increased so much as wc neured the niargin, and the heavy pressure to which the lK)at was subjected In'tween the larger fioc-pieces became so great, tliat we had to haul her up on the ice, after taking e\erytliing out of her, to preserve her from l)eing stove in. We then endeavoured to drag her over the larger pieces, with the intention of embarking the provisions and other things, as soon as she was launched into the loose sludge outside. Whilst thus lalwriously employed, the making of tiie flood tide augmented the swell and commotion amongst the floe-pieces so much, pressing them togetiier witli such violence, that one of the largest and thickest pieces on which we had deposited our provisions, suddenly parted in the centre, threatening destruction to every- thing upon it. In this critical position I was reluctantly compelled to relinquish the attempt for the present, and alter landing everything in safety by means of the sledge, we dragged the boat over the floe-pieces and landed her upon the IkmicIi. It was midnight bei'ore we pitched the tent i'or the night on a ridge of shingle, after 189 Slulehnl 6y B. M-Cornick, . Launching of the Boat over the Drift Ico from Lorell Poinl Encampment. four hours of unceasing, most harassing, and dangerous work, which fairly put to the test the capabilities of every one of my small party, and fully satisfied me that I could not have selected a finer boat's crew for a perilous service, had I had the whole Arctic squadron to have picked them from. After supper, having set a watch for the night as a precaution against a surprise from the bears, whose tracks were rather numerous upon the snow on the beach, the buffalo robes were spread, and all turned into their felt-bags to enjoy that sound and refresh- ing sleep, which seldom fails to attend on the wearied and toilwom, however hard may be the coucii or inclement the cUme. Friday 20th, the spot on which we encamped last night is a little to the north- ward of Lovell Point, all around a snowy waste, save and except the narrow shingle ridge cm which the tent stood, and that was bare. The northern sky looked black and threatening, not that peculiar dark horizon indicating the f)resence of open water, and hence technically called a water-sky, but the urid appearance preceding bad weather ; the thermometer during the day rose no higher than 31" Faiirenhcit. We saw four large flocks of geese all flying at a considerable height in their usual angular-shaped phalanx, shaping their course for the south, a sure sign of winter's near approach. Saw also many dovckics and kittiwakes, and two seals. On emerging from oin- felt-bags this morning at six o'clock, in which, chry- salis-like, we liad been incased during the night, and quitting the confines of the tent, we found tliiit but Uttlc change had taken place in the scene around us : both ice and weather bore nuich tlic same aspect. On the outer edge of the ice a heavy surf was still breaking, and large floe-picces had been stranded on the beach by the heavy pressure in the night. The atmosphere looked gloomy, over-cas't, and tineutening; tiie thermometer had fallen below 29°, and young ice formed to tiie tiiickness of an inch. After our breakfast of cold bacon and biscuit with chocolate, I took a rough sketch of the encampment, and walked for almut a mile along the beach to the northward, in search of a more promising part in the belt of ice for embarkation, but found none, even so practicable for the purpose as the place of our encampment. Bb 2 If 190 Shtclml bt n. ilVurmtek, MJ>: Capo liowdon, from the suinmit of Cape M'Baiii, W.N.W. (Magnetic.) On my return, therefore, tlie Imat was once more Inuiiehetl upon tlie floe- pieccs, wliicli, from the wind drawing round more to the westward, liud iKf u paeked closer together in siiore; and ut 10 a.m., by dint of great exertion, we at last succeeded in gaining the outer margin ; but it was noon before everything was got into the boat, having to make three sledge-trips from the shore with the provisions and other things. Wc now launched her into the sludgy surf, where, from her being so deep in the water, although with only a moiitli's provi- sions on board, and this she could barely stow, her situation was for a few nunutcs a very critical one, frt)m the risk of iK-nig swamped, till bv a few lusty strokes of the oars, wc were swept fairly out of this vortex of slu(fge and water into the open channel, and made sail witii a fresh breeze ibr Cajx; Bowden, going at the rate of about five knots an hour. In doubling Cape Bowtlen, we had to make a considerable detour to avoid a long stream of ice extending from it to the distance of several miles ; and in nmning through the heavy swell and sludge which skirted it, carried away our rudder, through one of the pintles giving way, which, on examination, was found to have l)een (lelective, and the rudder altogether badly fitted. In short, the boat was an old one, which had l)een knocked al)out in the late expeditions, and not well adapted for such an enterprise as this. This accident, together with a freshening breeze accompanied by thick weather, snow, and sleet, compelled us to lower the sail, at .5 p.m. I now looked out ibr a spot to l)eacn the boat, under Cape Bowden, a perpendicular cliff, rising to the height of upwards of five hundred feet above the level of the sea ; but the extremely narrow strip of shingle beach at its base was so thickly studded with stranded hunmiocks and berg-pieces of ice, on which a heavy surf was breaking, as to render it alike impracticable either to haul up the boat or find room to pitch the tent afterwards. On the north side of Cape Bowden we opened a pretty little bay, of semicir- cular fonn, most synunetrically so, about a mile in breadth at its entrance, and much rtl)out the same in depth ; bounded on the north by a low, narrow penin- sula, suddenly rising into, and terminating in a tabular-tonped cape, about two hundred feet in height, separating it from Griffin Bay. ^\ e pulled all round the little bay with the intention of encamping there for the night, but found the beacli everywhere st> hemmed in with a fringe of groimdecl Inunmocks of ice lashed by the surf, that not a single opening offered, even for running the l)oat's bow in iK'tween them. A flock of geese, a number of gulls, and several ravens, which we had disturbed in their solitary retreat, took wing on our approach. I gave it the name of Clark Bay ; and the headland bounding it to the north, I called Cape M'Bain, after two esteemed friends ; the former, being one of the lew remaining survivors who shared in the glorious battle of Trafalgar, and the latter, an old voyager to these regions. On rounding Cape M'Bain into (Jritfin Bay, the weather became so thick as nearly to conceal the land, and we had some difficuliy in iinding a spot where 191 i mutckti H A aromM, juy,^"* *- '— Capo M'Buin, bearing VV.S.W. the boat could he bvuchcd. After coasting the south side of the bay for nearly a mile within the Cape, we at last succeeded in hauling her up into a little nook between the grounded hununocks with which the whole line of coast was thickly strewed. At 6.15 p.m. we pitched the tent for the night, between two small shingle ridges, lighted a fire, and had tea, with some cold bacon and biscuit. Griffin Bay presented a most wild-looking scene of desolation ; the surround- ing hills were all covered with snow; huge masses of old ice which had been stranded by some enormous pressure, lav thickly strewed along its shores, in places piled up in chaotic confusion ; and the upper part of the bay was full of loose ice, the winter's floe having very recently broken up. The streams of ice which we met with on our way up channel doubtless came out of this and the adjacent bays. When about turning into my felt-bag for the night, I found it saturated with water, and preferred taking my rest on the buflPalo robe, without any other covering than what the tent afforded, having a black tai-paulin bag containing my change of clothes (all thoroughly drenched by the seas the toat shipped over her bows) for my pillow. Saturday 21st. — Rose at Ti a.m., breakfasted, and started at six o'clock for the summit of Cape M'Bain, on which I found a cairn, containing a small gutta percha case, enclosing a circular printed in red ink on yellow tinted paper, dated Tuesday, May 13th 1851, and stating that a searching party from the "Lady Franklin" anti " Sophia" brigs had left, for emergencies, on the north point of the bay, a cache of sixty pounds of bread and forty pounds of pemmican. From the spot on which the cairn stands, I took sketches of Capes Bowden and Grinnell, and descended on the south side into Clark Bay, and whilst examining its shores, I saw an Arctic gull and three fine large white hares (Lepiis ulaclalis), which, however, were far too shy and wary to allow me to approach within ball range of them : both barrels of my gun being loaded with ball, I discharged one after them, which sent them running off at a tremendous rate. Ketuniing to our encampment, we stmck the tent, and after re-embnrking everything, made sail with a fair wind from the westward at 9- 15 a.m., but still the same overcast and gloomy aspect of the sky. After we had proceeded for some distance, I discovered that a fine musk ox ( Ovihos moschatus) skull and horns, (evidently a bull's from the bases of the horns meeting over the forehead,) found by two of the boat's crew, on one of the ridges above the bay, in a ramble they took last night, — had been left behind on the beach. This was much to be regretted, as the specimen furnished pretty decisive evidence that these animals must once have existed here, and the probability is, that they do so still. It l)ore evident marks of long exposure to the weather, bleached white, porous, and time-worn. Standing over for Cape Grinnell, we encountered another heavy stream of ice, which crossed our course as it drifted rapidly out of Griffin Bay, cutting us off from the shore, and we had to get out the oars and pull round it. Our rudder, which we had made an attempt at repairing, again gave way. We passed a shoal of white whales (Beluga iinrcalis), and saw the cairn on the point where the depot of provisions was left. After taking a sketch of the latter, I landed about noon upon a narrow shingle beach, on which we lighted a fire and cooked a warm mess, made of preserved mutton, soup and potatoes, for our dinner. On walking up the ridge to the cairn, through a heavy fall of snow, we found the f)rovisi()ns gone ; and as there were recent foot-prints up the side of the ridge ending to it, wher the melting of till snow had left the soil sufficiently soft Bb 3 193 bttlelud bt a. rCvrmii-i, HJf. Cape Daniull, bearing K,W. nnd plustic to take impressions, I caineto the conclwsion that the " Assistance" and "Pioneer" had taken them on their way up channel. Retumini? to the Ijoat, we shoved off at '.) p.m., the sun {(lancing forth a momentary ray through the surrounding nuuky atmosphere, as we receded fnmi the shore. On rounding the caini point, we opi'ned another small semicircular bav, strikingly resem- bling ClarK Hay l)otn in size and form ; and to which 1 gave the name of M't'lintri///i'), fulmar petrel {Profellariu frlitriftlin), glaucous and kittiwake gulls. At V) P.M., ()l)serving a cairn on a low ridge of shingle, I ran the lM)at in between the grounded himnnocks of ice on tlic point. Landed and found a tin cylinder containing a notice tliat the " Assistance " and " Pioneer" had passed on Sunday morning last at 10 o'clock, bound to Baillie Hamilton Island — "all well." From this we hud a very prolonged and fatiguing pull along a most dreary line of coast, closely packed w>th trrounded hunuuocKs. The breeze increased 19S lliflchea hy H. .V( urmUk. H. \ KncAmpmunt in Emery Hay. to a fresh gale, ncconipiinicd by slcct and snow; the thermometer 28°; air cold and pinching, and the whole of the hind more deeply covered with snow than any that we had yet passed. The horizon to tlie north looked black and threatening, and a faint pinkish streak of light seemed to give an additionol air of wildness to its aspect. The night, too, was fast closing in, with no prospect l)efore us of the smallest nook where we could haul up the boat in safety till the morning. A long way ahead of us three bold capes appeared in the distance; the nearest, a remarkably black-looking one, prominently jutting out from the snow-clad ridf^es flanking it on either side. Aground oft' it was a large mass of ice of fantastic shape, rising from the sea by a narrow neck and then expanding out into the form ol' an urn, appearing as if filled with white foam rising alx)ve the brim in a convex form. A long stream of ice was seen extending out from the Black Cape, which led me to hope that we should find a bay on the other side of it out of which the ice had drifled, and a place of refuge for the night, for n\y boat's crew were fairly woni out by pulling for so many hours against a head-sea and strong current, (running here, at times, five or six knots an hour) and exposed to such inclement weather. In passing a low shingle ridge, iK'fore we reached the black headland, a cairn upon It caught mv eye through the dark gloom in which it was enveloped, and although an ice-girt lee shore upon which a heavy surf was setting, I felt that it was my duty to attempt a landnig to examine it. The Ixiat's head was there- fore at once directed for the shore, and run in between two heavy grounded masses of ice, leaving just r(K)m enough for her bows to enter ; the ridge of shingle was too steep to haul iier up, or I should gladly have encamped there for the night, unfavourable as was the spot for pitching our tent. We had to walk along the ridge over snow, in some places very deep, Wforc we reached the cairn, and, to our great disappointment, after pulling it down and carefully examining the groimd beneath and around it, found no record whatever. It was a small ])ile of rocks resembling a surveying mark, but when and by whom erected no clue was left upon which to form a conjecture. We saw here recent tracks of bears and foxes on the snow. Uetuniing to our boat, after some ditticulty in embarking in the swell, the crew, to whom I had given a little brandy each, pulled under its temporary influence with renewed vigour for the Black Cape. That harbinger of the storm, the stormy petrel or Mother Carey's chicken (Prm-e/ldiiu pt'logicd), the first I have seen during this voyage to the Arctic " i boat, and I fired at it but missed it, the boat rolling at the I .'srions. pas Bb 4 I9» rim Poini, S.W. liny of lUfuKi-. C'iiih^ King. S.W. liy W iiioiiKiit too linivily in the »\vt'll for Inking anvthin^ like nn uiin. Wo it Im? roumit'd till- urn ol' iic and nulltd tluiaif;li tlii' >trrani, pu^jtinj; iK'twrcn and vnrf was brcakini;, and the boat pitciu'd and rolled xo intiih in the f^round s\m11 as fa ship a Ljood chal of water, eotnpellin>j; lis to hail her out. On rounchn^ the black headland wc entered, as I had anticipated, a tine hay, iK'lween three and four miles deep; hut after pulling tor some distance along its wild-looking inaccessible southern siiore without finding a nook where we coidd hope to get the boat's '>ead in, Ining a lee sliore, ice-girt, on which a dangeioiis surf was l)ri'aking, >i ii id to pull aiross to the opposite side, a distance of two miles, the shore of whkh apixared in the form of low shingli' ridges, giving promise of a IkmicIi on which we nn'ght haul up the boat in safety, as well as a dry ridge, tree from snow, for i>i' hing the tent. At first we rowfd omt a \erv shallow bottom, u|M)n which uc jHlibles were distinctly se»'n, in a heavy ground- swdl, but as we niarcd flu north side got into deeixT wafer. It was half an hour i)ast midnight when we at last succeeded m iiauling up the ixiat on the beaili ktween some l)erg-pieees, whicii li..:I been forced up by some vast pressure alK)ve the ordinary liigh-wafer mark. Whilst some of the crew were employed in getting file things out of the Umt, and securing her for the night, and others ])itching the tent on tlie shingle- ridtic abo\c' the beach, which on landing 1 liad selecti'd lor the site, the cook for the day lighted tlii' fire, and prepared supper. I strolled wifii my gun along the ridge rcumd the north |)oint, where huge InTg-pieces were piled up one upon another in chaotic confusion to the height of from twenty to tliirty teef by some treiiietidous pressure, occasioned, doubtless, by high spring-tides and heavy nortii- westerly gales. The strong brt'cze we had U'cn pulling against, ' u! 'imv inc'eased to a hard gale of wind from the sam. ipiarler, accompanied '»\ mi ■ \t ••whelming snow drift. Thermometer "JH, and piercingly cold, — a'?'. ■>) i 'i lal night >t that wc had encamped none too soon, for our frail ladd lu't possibly have lived in the sea that was now rimning outside. Therefore I called the inlet the J}ay of Uet'uge, the black headland I nameil Cape King, and to the north point I gave the name of I'ini, after two eiifi'rprismg I'olar frii^nds, both well l>nown for their enthusiasm in .Arctic discovery, and their plans for the rescue of u. nissin r eoimtryman, — in the search for whom, Lii'utenant I'ini, like myself, e Ml..i;r>;^il in the present expedition. .',v. liiy return t' the place of our encampment, I "spliced the main brace," t- it is, served rug a.s on the preceding night. Sunday, 22d. — Having retired to rest late ast night, or rather enrU this morning, we did not rise until lO.ilO a.m. It w - still blowing a hard north- westerly gale, with snow-drifl and overea.st tl\ k weather; so bitingly cold was the air within the tent, that sleeping, as . always dn, at the weather end, where the wind blows in under the canvas, nv hands felt quite Ix-numbed throughout the night, from tlieir having been expo (d, in the al)sence<)« mytelt- bag covering. I shaved for the first time since leaving tlie ship, an's, North and South, and round the world, from wiiich I read to my boat's rew part of the morning service, finishing with a short exteinporar}- prayer, which suggested itself at the moment, as iK'.st fitting the occasion. At 12.30 I left the tent, accompanied by three of m v men, for the sunnnit of Ilogier Head, — which I named after an old friend v\ ho had been engaged in African discovery, — a bold cniggv promontory, tiiiove ti e hundred feet in height, overhanging the sea, and about tliree miles distant fron our encampment. Our course lay over some snow-clad ridges up a gradual a rent. At 1.4.5 p.m. we reached the summit, from which a wide and wild sceiv of desolation met the gaze ; whiche\cr way the tye was directed a grand t:id sublime spectacle presented itself, to which the fury of the tempest lent ai, iwful interest. Benea'h the precipitous face of the overhanging crag on which I was seated, the surf was furiously lashing the narrow strip of black shiiglc beach at its base, margined by a l)elt of shallow water, the limits of w hich verc well defined by a turbid greenish apjK'arance, contrasting strongly with thi dark, very dark, blue colour of the water beyond. Along the edge of this zone oi shoal water, countless white whales were swimming down channel, literally spe; king, in a continuous stream. Amongst them, here and there, one of a pic-bahl C( lour ; and sometimes the bock of a straggler or two appearing in the discoloured water itself; all, C c 196 MltctUU uy J4. .I^'CVtmh*-. ifc..* Franklin Beacon, bearing S.K. by K, doubtless, iniffrating to less rigorous seas, whilst open water afforded them a passage to the southward. Over head, a solitary kittiwake {Lariis tridactylm) hovered with uplifted wing, as it breasted the violent gusts of wind that at intervals swept past, driving along dense volumes of mist from the mysterious north, which came rolling over the dark surface of the channel, on the opposite side of which, the bleak and barren snow-streaked cliff's of Cornwallis Land l)ounded the horizon to the westward, terminating in a black point forming its north eastern extremity, about the position of Cape De Haven, half concealed in gloom and mist. To the north westward, Baillie Hamilton Island, loomed, like a dark bank of clouds alK)ve the horizon : three or four glistening patches of white light, reflected upon the surface of the dark water through some hidden aperture in the clouds, shone with the brightness of molten silver, amid the surrounding lurid atmosphere ; rendering, the whole scene altogether a fit subject for the \tenv'\\ of a Claude. We commenced our descent of the mountain ;it 2.30 P.M., and having taken as careful a survey of the vicinity of our encamp- ment as the thick and unfavourable state of the weather would permit of, reached the tent at 'X'M) p.m., without finding any cairn or traces of any one having landed here before us. Onlv the tracks of a l)ear und fox on the snow were seen. This morning, on starting, a small piece of drift wood was picked up alnne the present high water mark ; and last night another nuisk ox skull was found by some of the boat's crew. It was the skull of a cow, the horns l)eing small, and a space l)ctween their bases on the forehead, and not in such a good state of preservation as the last. This gives me sanguine hopes that I may yet fall in with the living animal itself, before the winter drives us back to the ship. Discouraging as there is no denying our present prospects certainly are, we must at all hazards solve the Banng Bay problem first. On reaching the tent we found dinner all ready, and a warm mess of preserved mutton very acceptable. A dismal nighf — thermometer 2.5°. Monday 2.3d. — It blew in heavy s(|ualls all last night. About 9 o'clock this morning, however, a lull taking place, I resolved to make an attempt to reach Baring Bay as soon so the sea should sufficiently go down for launching the boat, .\fter breakfast we erected a cairn on the low shingle ridge where the tent stood, and deposited beneath it a tin cylinder containing a record of our visit. The upper extremity of the bay was still covered with the smooth winter's floe, which had not yet broken up. Memo. — A twat expedition from Her Majesty's ship " Norili Star," at Ertlmg and Terror Bay, Beechey Island, in search of .Sir John Franklin, encamped here. 197 Bkilrlica by B. 31'Ct.rmkt. JlJi'. Ciipo Osborn, bearing N. (Magnetic.) at 12.30 A.M. on Sunday, August 22d, during a gale of wind, and left for Baring Bay on the following morning at 10.30. No traces found. R. M'CoRMicK, Officer Commanding Party. August 23rd 1852. At 10.45 A.M., as we were about to start, I shot a sandpiper ( Tringa maritimn) on the beach. On rounding the outer point we found a considerable swell out- side, with a strong breeze to pull against, passing Rogier Head, the headland wc ascended yesterday, and another adjoinmg promontory ; we had to contend with a short head sea, in a deeply laden boat, with a damaged rudder almost useless, compelling us at times to use a steer-oar in addition to keep her head to the sea, along as dreary and desolate a looking coast as I ever recollect having seen in these regions. The land appeared like a vast wreath of deep snow banked up against the horizon, its continuity broken only by deep gullies in one or two places, with not the smallest bight or indentation along its ice-encum- bered shores, on which a heavy surf was breaking, where a boat could find shelter during a gale of wind. After a most lal)orious pull of four hours we reached the steep and almost perpendicular ridge of Cape Osborn, a bold headland of rounded form, white with snow, excepting where a dark blotch appeared just below its summit, formed by the bare rock of the projecting buttresses. This cape may be considered the nortliernmost boundary of Wellington Strait, which here expands out into the broader Queen's Channel. At 1.45 p.m. we passed a very remarkable isolated mass of rock, rising abruptly from the steep face of this ridge about one tliird from the summit. It bore a striking resemblance to the bust of a human figure of burly form, and habited in a cloak and cap ; the horizontal layers of limestone rock, of which it is composed, l)cing so arranged as to give the cloak a caped appearance; a slab of the limestone in front of the figure, fancy might liken to a book. This singular specinKMi of sculpture from the hands of nature, worked out of the rock by the imitcd chisels of time and weather, removing the softer portions and leaving the harder standing forth in strong relief, — I transferred a fac simile of it to my sketchl)ook imiicr the name of " Franklin's Beacon," whose attention it could not fail to attract, pointing as it does to those unknown and unexplored regions which lie beyond, around the Northern Pole, untrodden by the foot of man since creation's dawn, and in the deep recesses of which, doubtless, lies huiilcu his mysterious fate, of which our search, thus far, unhappily has failed to elicit the slightest trace. At 4 I'.M. we doubled Cape Osborn, on the north side of which a huge pile of dirty yellow-looking old berg-pieces of ice la}- aground in the turi)id greenish shoal water which skirts the coast all the way to Baring Bay, extending out from the hunnnock-fringcd l)each to tiie distance of a niiie or t\vo aii!.)re freely and buoyantly than before ; but as we opened Baring Bay, the great body of water which was setting into it • « 4 V 11 t. Iw.»l. from the broad expanse of tiie wueen's Ciiannel, with the wind and from the N.W., caused such heavy rolling seas to tumble in ujwn the shore. 199 Hkclcliett lit H. .VCiniiick, R..\. Mount Providcnco, liaring Hay. Bearing West (Slagnetic). that our crippled rudder was entirely swept away, and we had great difficulty in steering with an oar a boat so deep in such a sea ; and had to get one out on each quarter to keep her head to the sea and prevent her broaching to, when nothing could have saved her from foundering instanter. The shores all round this bay presented a perfectly flat surface, level with the floe,— which still, though broken up, filled the upper part of it, — and extending to a considerable distance inland, bounded by a slightly undulating ridge of hills in the horizon, averaging, perhaps, a hundred and fifty feet in height. But one point in these inhospitable shores seemed to offer the faintest hope of a, place of shelter. This was a black mount on the south side, of somewhat conical form, having a trun- cated summit, with shingle ridges in front ; and from its marked and conspicuous appearance amid the wide surrounding waste of snow, had particularly attracted my attention, from our first opening the bay, as it appeared to me the only spot accessible for ice. It was flanked on the west by an inlet, still covered by the winter's floe. On this spot I had from the first centred all my hopes of finding a harbour of refuge. Putting the boat, therefore, right l)efore the wind, I ran for it through a turbulent ground swell, over a long extent of several miles of shoal water of a dirty green colour, showing the fragments of rock and pebbles at the Ijottom on nearing the shore, when two points for Ircaching the boat offered ; one on the port bow, forming a curious natural basin of quadrangular shape, enclosed on all sides by a narrow ledge of black '•neks and shingle, excepting in front, where an ojiening was left just large enough to admit the boat. Into this, being the nearest, my boat's crew were very anxious to take her tlioroughly worn out as they were by a day of unceasing toil and danger, amid which their cool and manly conduct was Kn'ond all praise. And on losing the rudder and tiller, with which I always myself steerea the boat, the ice quarter- master especially proved himself an expert hand at the steer oar at a moment when we were obliged to have one out on each quarter to keep the boat's head to the heavy cross sea that was running, to pre\ent her from broachiiig-to. I objected, however, to the little land-locked harbour for the boat, on the ground of the chance of being entrapped within it l)y a change of wind bringing the ice down upon it, and thus preventing us from so readily getting out again ; and also from the low, boggy ground, exposed on all sides to the weatlier, being unfavourable for pitching the tent. I, therefore, stood on for the IJluck Mount, ahead, and was fortunate enough to find at its base a sloping beach for hauling up the boat iK'tween some grounded hummocks of ice, backed by a shingle ridge, dry and free from snow, on which we pitched the tent at 8 p.m., sheltered by another ridge still higher, above which rose the Black Mount. I ascended this eminence, whilst the bout's crew were lighting the fire and getting supper ready. From its sunmiit I saw the ice closely packed all round the bay by the wiml now blowing up it, and that this was the only spot where a boat could possibly have founsl a place of shelter along tlie whole line or' coast, from the bttv we' left this morning, to as far as the eve could reach bevond us to the north- C'c 3 . 200 ward, rendering the navigation of the Wellington Channel extremely dangerous lor boats at a late and boisterous season of the year. 1 saw a flock of geese on the passage here, and another arose from a lake on our arrival. A small frag- ment of drift wood was picked up on the hill. After spreading all our wet c-lothes on the shingle to dry, everything in the l)oat having been drenched with sea water, we had tea and preserved Itcct' for supper, and turned in at midnight, truly thankful to God for our providential escape. 'I'hemi. 27°. Tuesday, 24th. — Breakfasted at 8..TO a.m. As it was still blowing a north* westerly gale, preventing our attempting anything lurther with the boat, I started at 11.30 a.m., accompanied by one of the bout's crew, on'an excursion along shore, with the view of ascertaining the state of the ice, and selecting the Iwst route for sledging roimd the top of the bav should a continuance of the present boisterous weather render boating oiK'rations wholly impracticable. On passing a small lake al)out a (jua cr of a mile from the encampment, wc saw two eider ducks (Anas moUissiimi) with eight young ones swinnning on it. I shot the whole of the broods and oik of the old ducks, the other made its escape. Our course at first lay over flat, swampy, boggy ground covered with snow, through which a few straggling tutts of moss, lichens, saxifrages, poppies, and a small species of juncus made their appearance at intervals ; the whole inter- sected by very low narrow ridges of shingle and a chain of small lakes. The winter's floe had all the appearance of having been recently broken up by the late gales setting a heavy swell into the ba\-, which had ground it into fragments and hummocks mixed with sludge. A thick fog coming on, accompanied by snow drift sweeping over the bay from the northward, and concealing the out- line of its shores, I struck across the low land for the ridge of hills which Iwiinds it inland, passing several isolated masses of rock which, as they appeared through the snow at a distance, so much resembled piles of stones artificially heaped up, that dwelling, as our thoughts constantly did, on cairns and memorials, we were fre(picntly — until the eye l)eeame familiar with these deceptions — induced to diverge from our course to examine them. On ascending the ridge we followed it back to the head of the inlet (south of our encampment \ which is nearly two miles dec] and narrow at its entrance, l)eing not more than about a quarter of a mile in bn ulth, but expanding out to double that width. We walked round several laki • on the ridge of hills, and heard the monotonous mournful cry of the red-throu! 1 divers ( Colijmhus sepfeniriotiulis ) in the vicinity, but the fog, had lx;coine S(. ick as to conceal them from view. On descending from the ridge down a t inal black clift" inland of the tent, we had to make head against the gale, whii rove the cutting snow-drift in our faces with the thcrniometer at 29^ We it ued the cncamninent at 5 p.m., having only had a shot at a tern, and seen the ti ^ of a fox. 'I'lie ice-(]uaitermuster and another of the lK)at's crew returned n after us from a ramble round the other side of the inlet, having found t; skeleton of a bear. Wednesday, 2")th. — Rose at G a.m. ; no improvement in the weather ; a quantity of sludge ice driven in shore, which was tiist l)eginning to Ik.' cemented together i)y the formation of young ice, forming an iinpassuble In-lt for our boat, in fnmt of the encampment. Still too tliick and lujistcroiis for boating or sledging. After breakfast I visited tiie small lake again, and shot three ducks out of a fiock of eight yonnii \)'mtiu\s (Anns fiiuddriitu]. After my return to the tent witli tlieni, one of the l«)at's crew killed the lemuining five. We had some of tluin for dinner, and found them excellent eating. Saw two or three sandpipers and wounded an Arctic gull [Lexfris jxinixifln/.s), \n\t notwitiistnnding that the tiiumb, or tip of tlie wing was Itroken, it succeeded in getting awav. I walked aiterwards to the top of tlie west inlet, acc()ini)anied by two of iii\ party, in search of tlie remains of tiie skeleton of the bear, tiiey having on first finding it brougiit back with tiiini tiie skull and jielvis. After a long search, we at last hit ujjon the spot, where a rib was projecting from tiie sniiw, k'neath which we found most of the vertehne, dci ply imbedded in the richest lied of moss we had yet seen, the result, doulitless of tiie manure arising from the decomposition of the animal's carcase; allhoiigh from the bleached appearance and lioney-C(mil el state of the bones, a long series of winter snows would seem to have mantled over them since Hniin (Iniuircd his limrc nnwirMf friimo n +v.«- vards above the head of the inlet to breathe his lust on terra finiia, whether in 201 sickness or old age, to become food for the foxes, who had rendered the skeleton incomplete by walking off with most of the ribs and long bones to feast off at tiieir leisure. All that remained I collected, and we returned to the tent through a heavy hail-storm and densely overcast sky, with thick mist, and the thermo- meter at 25°. Saw some red-throated divers on one of the largest lakes, two tern, and the track of a fox. In the afternoon, the wind shifting round to the westward, and the weather somewhat moderating though still very squally, I set about making preparations for our sledging journey; the wind now setting directly up the bay, packing the ice so close as to render any attempt with the boat utterly hopeless. Having stowed the sledge with four days' provisions, we dug a trench and made a cache of the remainder of our provisions, filling it up with shingle as a protection against the bears during our absence. The boat was hauled up on the second ridge on which the tent stood, and turned bottom-up, with the gear and spare clothes stowed underneath, as a precaution against high tides, which might probably rise higher than usual under the influence of heavy westerly gales. Thursday 26th. — I was stirring at 3 a.m. Morning gloomy and overcast, with snow. Wind round to the eastward and moderated. Thermometer 24". Walked down to the lakes where I shot the ducks ; it had frozen over during the night ; took a sketch of the encampment from it. Three or four snow bunt- ings {Emberiza nivalis) were flitting about on the ridge above the tent, saluting us with their lively cheerful note. Yesterday a red-throated diver was shot on one of the lakes by one of our party. At 5 a.m., I roused out the boat's crew, and we had our chocolate, biscuit, and bacon breakfast. The progressive fall in the temperature, with the rapid formation of young ice, together with the Iwisterous north-westerly gales, which had packed the broken up winter's floe upon the shore in front of our tent, forming a belt of hummocks and sludge half a mile in breadth, and daily increasing in extent, cutting us off from the open water, and requiring only a few calm days to cement it altogether, and render the present position of the boat inextricable, were immistakeable signs that the season for boating operations was past ; and so soon as a southerly wind from off the land should drive the ice out, no time was to be lost in getting her into the open channel. All, therefore, that now remained to be done was to complete the exploration of tins bay by an overland journey. C c4 /' SJttlelifl hf H. Jtl\>rmirk. Owt-n Point, distniit Kive Xlili'x, bearing K.S.K. Si,i:i)(iK Exclusion norM) Bakinu Bay. Having struck the tent, and stowed it on the sledge, with our felt bags, buffalo rol)es, four days' provisions, and an " Etna " with spirits of wine for fuel, we started at 8 a.m. ; reached the first low rocky point in the curve of the bay, two miles distant, at 9 a-m. Our course lay over the low snow-clad ridgt's of shingle. From this our encampment hill and boat how N. (magnetic), but here the variation is so great, as almost to reverse the points of the compass. At 9.30 a.m. we struck off more inland, in the direction of the ridge of hills, to avoid a curve of the bay, crossing over a level tract of marshy lK>g, covered with snow ; on which one ol the party picked up a small spider. At 10.15 a.m. crossed a rivulet over a pebbly bed, from which some animal was seen on one of the shingle ridges ; but at tw> great a distimce to make out whether it was a bear or reindeer, as it disappeared liehind the ridge, iK'fore I could get my telescope to Iwar upon it. Crossed another anning stream, rapidly flowing over its pebbly channel, (towards the bay) across which the sledge was carried. I made a considerable detour here in pursuit of the stranger, without seeing onvthing more of him, and overtook the sledge upon a l)n)ad, smo.m. when some distance ahead of the sledge, pioneering the way, as was my custom, I came suddenly upon the track of the nnisk ox, close to one of those numerous running streams, by which the chain of lakelets studding these marshy flats, empty themselves into the bay. Tlie animal appears to have attempted crossing over the frozen surface of the stream, but finding that the ice, which was broken by his two fore feet, would not bear his weight, retreated, crossing his own track in the direction of the hills, bounding the horizon to the southward. From the appearance of the foot-prints (which measured five inches, both in length and in breadth) it nuist have passed very recently, as there was a driving snow- drift at the time, which would soon have cflraccci the impressions. These foot prints, when taken in connexion with the two skulls recently found, afford, I think, indisputable evidence that the musk ox is an inhabitant of North Devon, at least, during the summer months ; and is, probably, now migrating to the southward for the winter. But their course tliitherward, and how they get across Barrow Strait, is not so easily explained ; they must, at all events, wait till the Strait is frozen over. The black point, with its rounded snowy top, in which the ridge of hills environing the bay, terminates to the northward, and which we have iiad in sight so many hours, as the goal to be reached before we pitched the tent for the night, has for several miles appeared at the same distance, or, as the sledge's crew would have it, receding, as mile after mile, with weary and jaded steps, they toiled along, dragging after them the ciunbrous sledge, and still the dark point appeared no nearer. Fairly exhausted, tiiev were compelled to take more frequent spells to rest for a few minutes. Tiie night, however, looked so threat- ening, the northern sky intensely black and lowering, — premonitory signs of the wind going back to its old stormy quarter, — that I was very anxious to secure the shelter of the point ahead for pitching the tent under, as in the exposed, wide, and bleak waste around us, the canvass and poles supporting it would scarcely have withstood the violence of the strong gusts of wind. The dark sky was preceded by a very remarkably-tinted horizon in the north, in which streaks of a fine oli\e green, alternating with bands of an amber colour, and a rich chestiuit l)rown zone, intersected horizontally ; the side of the hills about Prince Alfred Bay, crested by a dark neutral tint, \anishing into a leek- green. When, within about a mile of the point, to encourage my sledge-crew, and convince them that we were, in reality, now drawing near it, I walked on ahead at a quickened pace and ascended to the sunnnit ; and, on descending again to the extreme rugged point, I found them pitching the tent on the shingle-ridge benciitii. It was exactly riiiihiiglit, and tliick vveailicr vvitli fine snow, .a fne was soon lighted, tea prepared, and bacon and biscuit served out for supper. It D d S04 lUrlrlu^l I,) M. .VCormiek, »J(. Westornmost DlufTs of Alfred Iky, liiniinp V.. liy S., anil I'cak, K.S.E., m seen from the summit of Owen Point. was nciirly two o'clock in the morning before we turned in, all thoroughly knocked up with the day's exertions. Friday 27th. — Morning overcii.4; I left the tent at 8 a.m., and whilst breakfast was preparing, ascended the rugged point alwve our encampment to get a view of our position. At first scramblnig over a confused pile of rocky fragments, swell- ing out above into a broad, smooth, and round-backed hill alwut three hundred feet in height, commanding a view of the shores of the curve of the coast to the northward of it, laid down in the chart as Prince Alfred Bay ; an isolated peak, apparently some little distance inland, just showing itself over the highest range of hills on the north side ; this ridge terminating in two black table-topped bluff headlands, running far out to the westward, but the horizon was too hazy for making out distant objects sufficiently clear for getting the different bearings correctly, which, as this spot promised to l)e the extreme limit of our journey, I was the more anxious to obtain before I commenced my return, more especially as the sun hud been hid from our view by fogs, mists, and constantly-overcast skies, accompanying the tempestuous weather which has attended us in all our movements since we left the ship; so that no opportunity has offered for getting observations for the latitude and longltuf'.e, ana consequently my little pocket sextant has remained idle in its case. In the hope that the weather might clear up about noon, I returned to the tent to breakfast, having seen only about hall a dozen snow-buntings flitting about the hill-top. My party were glad to take a siesta in the tent to-day, so knocked up were they after their laborious and toilsome forced march of yester- day, dragging a heavily laden sledge over a distance of about thirty miles, having actually travelled this within the space of sixteen hours, at the average rate of rather more than two miles in an hour, resting for dinner and tea an hour at each meal ; the longest sledging journey by far, I believe that has yet been accomplished in one day without the aid of dogs. At 1.30 r.M., during a temporary clearing away of the mist, I again ascended the hill ^bove our tent, bounding the low shores of Baring Bay on the north, which I have named Owen Point, in iioiiour of my friend Professor Owen, the distinguished naturalist andCuvier of our own country, who has evinced a lively interest in the Franklin search and Polar discovery. Baring Bay, indeed, scarcely deserves the name of a bay, it is little more than a broad sweep in of the coast, and is so shoal on entering it from the south- ward, that I could see the pel)l)lcs at the bottom for several miles offshore; and had good reason to rememlK-r tiie heavy ground swell that rolled over it in surges threatening destruction to the boat every minute, in the gale which drove us l)ef()re it, to seek the only place of shelter which the whole length and breadth of its shores afforded under the Black Mount. A black tabic-topped biuff, iKruriiig E. by S. by compass, forms the western- most extremity of Alfred Bay, on the north side ; antl a little to the east- ward of this, peering just above the high ridge of land, is a peak Iwaring 205 SkelclMl bt M. }rc•., r, -- . cur\e ran up Ix-yoiid it ; broken up fragments t.f Inmnded on the west by a low black point, covered ' foasilifenms, more es|K'ci'illy in corallines, of which I collected some s|H-cimenH, IIen< we U'canie enveloped in a thick fog, which, with snow, continued till we reachcil our old encampment. At 2 p.m. crossed a patch of l(H)»e dark sand, and the sledge party rested for a few minutes near a rapid stream, atlcr crossing which, the sledge soon came ujion its outwanl track of yesterday. Saw thn-e or four sandpipers, and woimded an Arctic gull ; which, falling somewhere in a dark shingle water course, alM)ut a ([uarter of a mile from where I shot it, I lost, after making a considerable detour from the sledge's course in search of it, for I have not yet l)een able to obtain a s|H'cimen of this solitary bird, mostly met with singly, or in pairs ; and of which we have seen only three or four individuals throughout our jouniey ; all very shy and wary. On coming up with the sledge, we were drawing near the Uhu-k Moimt, and I proceeded on ahead of my party to sec if all was right. Reached the lK)at and cache at 4 I'.M. in the midst of a snow storm, with the wind at N \V. Found everything as we \vi\ thcni, with the exception of the grat'tying sight of oi)en water in the cove; all the ice having U'en (Iriven out during our absence, by the southerly winds, which blew for a few hours, leaving only a narrow U'lt of loose sludge near the In-ach, and no imptidinient in th- way of getting to sea in the bout. It was just low water, and the large urn shaix-d masses of ice were left 'n'gh any men, M'orv we commenced our homeward voyage. All still feeling more v less the effects of the fatigue attending their unremitting exertions for the last two days; one evincing a slight disposition to snow blindness, and another some dental irritation. Afk'r tlicy had all had the great comfort of an ablution and shave, I read part of the morning service to them in the tent. Our dinner, as yesterday, consisted of a wann mesa of preserved mutton, soup and potatm's, with 13urton ale. Wind round to the westward, breaking up the winter's floe in the inlet, west of the encampment, ant Ji. ifCormlck. U..\. Rogicr Ilcail, South. Monday, August .'50th. — I was up this morning and outside the tent as early ns lour o'clock to look around, and, huving well weighed both our present jjosition and future prospects, to determine on the Ix-st course to he aclopted ; when, taking into consideration the advanced period of the season and unpromising appearance of the weather, that nothing further could l)c accomplished in the search northward and eastward of this bay, I very reluctantly decided on return- ing to the ship, and we commenced stownig the boat and making preparations for our return. At 9.H0 A.M., we erected a cairn on the summit of the Black Mount, which I called Mount Providence, in conunemoration of our providential deliverance from as perilous a position as a boat could possibly have escaped from, — placing l)eneath the cairn a tin cylinder, enclosing a record of our proceedings, of which the following is a copy : — Mkmouandl'm. — A boat expedition from Her Majesty's ship " North Star," at Erebus and Terror Hay, IJecchey Island, in search of Sir John Franklin, arrived here on Monday August 2'M\, at midnight, during a gale of wind and heavy sea which carried away the rudder of the boat and nearly swamped her. On Thursday last, sledged on the snow over the low lands round the head of the bay, without finding any opening to the eastward or traces of the missing expedition ; returning to the Iwat on Saturday afternoon. Weather during the preceding week has been most unfavourable, blowing, snowing, and foggy, with the thermometer constantly Ix'low the freezing point. The lakes frozen over, and every appearance of wmtcr rapidly setting in. Laiuiched the boat this morning on the making of the tide, to return down Wellington Strait and examine the bays along its eastern shores. A memonm- diun of our sledge journey has lieen deposited under a cairn erected on the summit of the northern point of the bay. R. M'ConMicK, Monday, August .'JOth, 1852. Officer Commanding Party. To the inlet running up on the west side of Mount Providence, from S.S.W, to N.N.E., I gave the name of Dragleybeck, in commemoration of the birthplace of Sir John Barrow, Bart., and in compliment to his son, John Barrow, Esq., of the Admiralty, E.K.S., who, following up his father's career, has earne(l for himself a distinguished position in the history of Arctic discovery by his noble and unceasing eft'orts m furthering the search for the brave but ill-fated Franklin and the rest of our long-lost countrymen. The clinin of lakelets on the moorland 1 named, after two near relatives, the Louisa and Marianne Lakes. Dd3 nthhtU tit H. MV.rmtrk. C.V. (Hakliii's ItcncoD, S.S.E. Dcttccndiii^ to the ridgf, which is* alH)iit fifty fcvt ul»ovc the l)t'nfh, and tVoin thence to the lower one on which tlie tent Htundn, we struck it, and erected another ciiim on the spot where it stcKxl. The rocks here are spurinply fossili- i'crouH. It wuH a very low tide this morning, l)eing out u hundred ii-et IVoin the last high-water mark. \\\qt a luncheon ot' cold bacon and ale, to fortify the Imat's crew for their long pvill they had iK-fore them to the next Iwy, against a head wind and pinch- ingly cold air, wc alnrnt n(M)n launched the boat In'tween the heavy hunuiKx-ks of ice aground, five or six feet in height when high and dry. Had snow, fog, and mist, with a short head-sea to butfct with ; the droi)s of water Iroze on the blades of the oars as they rose from the sea after each stroke, and accunudating till the lower edges iK'came iringed with uendant icicles ; the water shipped over the l)ow8 soon froze at the bottom of tne boat, so that had there been much sea on wc should soon have had a very dangerous kind of inuuoveable glacier- like ballast. We saw a seal or two, a flock of ducks, a few dovekies, fulmar |)etrel,and the arctic gull. At (J. I.') p.m., on rounding Kden Point, the trending of thy coast in a S.W. direction enabled us to make sail. We carried away a. temporary rudder which we had constructed just k-fore we started out of the head of a c.isk from the wreck of the " M'Lellen," American whaler, lost by the unlbrtuiiate but enterprising seaman, Captain (juayle. At 7''^*' I'-M. we doubled ('ape Osborn, and, a (jiiaitcr of an hour afterwards, Franklin's Beacon, standing tbrth through the mist in strong relief from llie side of the ri in places. Pitched the tent dose to our cairn, snowing all the time, and pinching work to the men's lingers. 'riierrMomcter '2' . 'i'iie stati' of the tide prevented us from hauling up the boat on the sliingle ridge, which, for greater security, I always get doni; it possible ; we were therefore obliged to let her rick- in the cove with an anchor out on shore. Tuesday 31st. — 'i'he morning's dawn brought with it the same kind of weather as yesterday — snow, mist, and fog. Rose at (i.Iid a.m. The first fox f Curtis l(i<((i/)us) was seen by the watch last niLiiit near the Itoat ; represented to have been of a brown and white colour. 1 lound my aneroid barometer this morning (piite useless, having sustained some injury from being thrown on the beach in the cl'jtlies-bag in clearing the boat, and into which it had been acci- 9()9 dcnUlly put. Thin vim a mrlous lews fn mc, m I had intended meaguring all the hcightM with it in returning down channel. Fnttn the Point \ took Hketcheii oCtho two (;*pcN Houth of the bay, together with the opposite couftt of CJomwallis Land. At 2.4ft H.M. Having embarked everything, we pulled all round the bay, cUmely cxanriiuing itit Hhoren, and landing nt all remarkablf pointn. At alumt half II mile from the top got ttomidings m thirteen fathom.s, and within le»8 than a cftble'M length of the shore the Roundin^^s gave four fnthoma very regidarly The v'iiiter'H flin- hud not yet broken up in a creek at its Bouth-westem. extremity, ami young ice had formed here to the thickness of four inches. This is the only safe and well-sheltered bay along the whole of this coast for anchoring a ship. Saw several seals, gulls, and dovekies, and shot one of the latter. lianded at u little cove for a few minutes to examine the rocks, and sounded oj^ain, still getting four fathoms. At H.'M) p.m. landed near a black dirt" in a thick snow storm, and examined a remarkable-looking ravine running up from it. ().;»() I'.M.— 'Had tt) pull through a quantity of sludge ice round the outer point in clearing the bay. Took a sketch of the headlands and entrance to the Ituy from the southward. Shot at and struck a seal, but he escaped us. Saw four or five ducks. At H.;j() I'.M. doubled the next Cape, to which I gave the name of Toms, after my friend the Assistant Surgeon of the " North Star," an enterprising young otticer. At 9-'"> i'.m, passed the Point where the cylinder and memo- randa were I'ound coming up channel, v/hich I called Domville Point, after my friend and brother-othccr the Surgeon of the '• Resolute." About 10.30 p.m. entered I'jnery May, and encamped on a tine hard shingle ridge. Wednesday, September 1st. — 1 was awoke between 3 and 4 o'clock this morning by the ice (luarter-master, who had the watch, running into the tent, and reporting that our boat was swamping in the surf by a sudden squall coming on with the tlood-tide. On hastening down to the beach I found her broadside on, and half full of water and sand. On getting her round, head to sea and stem in-shore, we succeeded, after some labour and a thorough drenching, in getting everything out of her, and hauling her up above the shingle ridge ; capsizing her as soon as she was sufficiently clear of the breakers, to empty out the water and sand. It now blew a hard north-westerly gale ; the sky was densely overcast, and the air pinchingly cold : thermo- meter 21 wiia kont iinrAnainrrl V tinlincr lif-r nut. nnrl hfivinof nn riifldpr. wo hild to lu'nr ..»..» ....^ ..^|.., , — w..— Q.J ~.„ — p, , .-..j^—.- --, - ^ the nearest land to us, distant nearlv two miles, althous up learly 212 Sketrknl by «. M-C..rmuk, R.X. Eiicampnu'iit in Gritlin Hay. Icc ^horc. on which a heavy surf was breaking. We got soundings in twelve fathoms, and saw a second bear. Selecting the most favourable spot tiiat olfered for beacliing the Iwat, in a curve of the coast somewhat protected from the rollers by a low point, we backed her in stern ibremost, letting go the anchor over the bows, and running a line out astern to the shore so as to keep her head to the sea till everything was got out of her, and fortunately landed without sustaining any damage from the surf, which was breaking heavily against the boat's quarter, save and except a drenching to ourselves. Belbre we had hauled her up Ixjtwcen the masses of ice into a place of security for the night, on the shmglc beach the thermometer fell as low as 25°. The air was bitingly cold, and snowing all the time. After pitching the tent on a fine hard shingle ridge, dear of snow, the fire lighted, and supper, with a cup of warm tea, under cover of the canvas, wo turned into our felt-bags for the night, and soon forgot our toils in a sound sleep. Friday, 3d. — Passed the most comfortable night that we have yet had, the ground licing hard dry shingle on which our buH'alo rolxjs were spread. We were confined within the tent all day by stress of weather, which has l)cen most winterly. Blowing, as usual, a hard north-westerly gale, with heavy snow drift, half burying the tent, the sky overcast with a dense mist, and continuous fall of fine snow. Thennometer throughout the day standing as low as 26", and the air piercingly cold. The fire outside of the tent too'; double the usual time in l)oihng the Kettle ; and the pemmican which we had for dinner to-day, for the first time since we left the ship, was hard frozen when taken out of the case. I had a shot at an eider duck which alighted in the bay. A lew glaucus gulls (Larm glaucus) flew past the little inlet, which I named Sophia Cove. I occupied myself this evening with my plans of search. Had the last of our Burton ale to-daj', and turneu into our sleeping-bags at about 10 p.m. Saturday, -Ith. — Weather much the same as yesterday, prevented us from putting to sea ; but, as the wind and snowdrift had somewhat abated, I formed a party for a bear-hunting excursion to the top of the buy, when just as we were getting our guns ready for starting bruin himself anticipated our purpose by suddenly makmg his appearance, and thus saved us a day's buffetting with this inclement weather. One of the Iwat's crew having reported him in sight, on going outside of the tent I saw a fine full-grown bear (IJrsus muritimux) sauntering leisurely along the l)each, about midway l)ctwecn us and a point towards the entrance to the bay, to which I gave the name of Bear Point. As his c.nirse was direct for the encampment, I onlcrcd my party within the tent, to avoid alanuing him, whilst I watched his movements from the door. Bruin, however, evidently suspecting that all was not right, suddenly altered his course to pass inland of the tent, at the back of the shingle ridge alx)ve it. The instant he disappeared l)chii'd the ridge, I made direct for it, to intercept him, desiring my party to 'uc ready with their rines to cut off his retreat should l-.c happen to esca|)c the fire from my old double-barrel, which hod, a quarter of a century 213 before, been fatal to bruin's race in the Island of Spitzbergen. On my rising the ridge, bruin turned his head inland, when, after firing both barrels, the ball from the second one brought him on his haimches, at the distance of sixty yards from me. It was only for an instant, however, for he gathered himself up again, md retreated towards the beach, evidently mortally wounded ; and after running the gauntlet of a whole voUey of balls from the rifles and muskets of the boat's crew, who, being too eager and excited, I suppose, fired so hurriedly that not a ball took effect ; and imder their fire he took to the water, swimming out into the bav for the distance of two or three hundred yards, when he wore round with nis head in shore, unable any longer to make head against the wind, which was blowing dead on shore. His last efforts to struggle against it must have been desperate, for he had no sooner bore up than his huge form floated on the water a lifeless mass, just as I was about launching the boat to go in Eursuit of him. After a short interval the wind drifted him on shore about two undred yards from our encampment, to which we bore him on the sledge ; and, cold as it was, set about skinnmg him immediately ; when, strange enough, we found on examination that my second ball was the only one that had struck him, entering about a foot above the insertion of the tail, and an inch on the left side of tlic spine, literally drilling him through, and making its exit by the . mouth, sphntering two of the canine teeth as it passed out. As a proof of the extreme tenacity of life in these hardy creatures, this animal had one of the largest internal arteries divided by the ball in its course, which poured out so much blood that it was streaming from his mouth and nostrils in such a torrent as to dye the surf around him of a deep crimson colour as we hauled him up on the beach, and on opening, the body a deluge of the crimson fluid flowed out. Yet with this deadly wound he managed to run at his usual speed about two hundred yards to the beach, and then swim against a head sea for at the least as great a distance further, making fearful struggles until the moment of his last gasp for breath. He measured seven and a half feet in length, was finely moulded, and in excellent condition. We had a rump steak off him, as an addition to our pem- mican dinner, and found it infinitely better eating than some of the beef I have tasted which had been supplied the ship. At midnight the wind veered round more to the north, with a dark horizon in that quarter. Thermometer 26°. Fahr. Sunday, 5th. — No change in the weather, boisterous as ever, and thermometer at 26°. — Had bear steaks for breakfast. Read part of the Morning Service to my party in the tent. Saw several seals swimming about the bay, and another bear on the floe at its upper end, but not within our reach : I could just make him out with the aid of my telescope. An ivory gull (Larus eburneus), showing great confidence, hovered about the remains of bruin during the greater part of the day, apparently enjoying a most sumptuous feast. Several glaucus gulls shyly hovered over in passmg by, but did not venture to alight : saw also H solitary snow bunting. Night threatening, with a black and lurid :,ky, still bio iig hard, with much surf in the bay. Wind shifted round to its old" quarter in the N.W. again, with the thermometer down to 24°, and bitterly cold. Monday, 6th. —Rose at 6 a.m. Wind more off the land and somewhat moderated, with less sea on outside ; the young ice at the upper inlet of the bay which had been broken up by the swell setting on it during the gale, was drifting out past us in considerable quantity, forming a belt along shore. Commenced preparations for shifting our encampment into the next bay, as soon as the swell along shore sut)sided sufficiently to enable us to get the l)oat afloat, and round the lieadland, tiie vicinity of wliich, and suumiit of Cape Bowden, I was anxiously desirous of more thcfoughly examining than my time permitted of when outward bound. Erected a cairn upon the ridge where we had encamped, and deposited beneath it a cylinder containing a record of our proceedings. At 10.30 A.M., on the wind and sea going down, wc launched tiie boat, and had to row through sludge and brash, intermixed with hard floe pieces of the bay or young ice, which so impeded the progress oi' the boat that the crew had a most "laborious hour's pull in getting through little more than a mile of it. We landed at our old place of encampment en-pussant to look for the musk-ox skull which we had accidentally left there. But the change which the place had Ec2 214 undergone during our absence had l)een so great that we could barely recognize it. 1 he heavy seas setting upon this shore during the late almost continuous succession of north-westerly gales had washed away the old l)each, and thrown ridge upon ridge of shingle higher up the emlmnkmcnt, bringing the spot where t)ur tent stood some yards nearer to the water's edge. We could nowhcie find the horns ; they must either have been washed away or buried beneath the con- fused heaps of shingle and huge hummocks of stranded ice. At 1 P.M., after rounding Cape M'Bain, we hauled the boat up on a hard shingly beach, on the north side of Clark Bay, about half way up, and pitched the tent on a fine dry part of the ridge, on the margin of a frozen lake. Saw several gulls sitting on the beach ; and just as I landed a solitary raven ( Corvus conw), hovering overhead to reconnoitre our proceedings, fell a victim to his curiosity. I fired at him, and he fell dead upon the surface of the frozen lake. This bay appears to be a favourite retreat of the ravtns ; we saw several on our last visit here, but none elsewhere. At 3 p.m. we hut) our usual warm mess for dinner, and opened the last gutta-percha case of biscuit. Three of our party having eaten rather too freely of the bear's liver for supper last night, complained today of violent headache, which readily yielded to a smart cathartic dose of medicine. At 5 P.M. I left the encampment, accompanied by one of my party, on a searching excursion over the ridges round the bay, to the summit of Cape Bowden, a distance of about six miles from the tent. Our courst lay over a succession of ridges, and through ravines filled with deep snow, in many places alwve the knees at every step wc set, and in the snow drifts crossing some of the deep hollows even up to the waist. We had to climb one very steep hill, separated from Cape Bowden by a deep saddle-like depression, nearly filled by a frozen lake. \Ve rapidly descendecl to this, but had another toilsome ascent up the steep acclivities of the Cape ; and on reaching the summit had to walk a mile further over deep snow l)cfore I found the " Rescue's " cairn, which stands on the southern extremity of the ridge. We reached tiie spot at 7 P.M. I drew from beneath the pile of stones a broken common green quart bottle, containing a gutta-jiercha case, enclosing the usual printed notice on yellow paper left by the searching parties from the " Lady Franklin " and " Sophia." I tore a leaf from my memorandum iKiok, and wrote on it a record of my visit, which I put in, and replaced the bottle in the cairn. Having taken a rough sketch of the coast, r^xtending from Point Bowden to C'ajK' Spencer, the whole outline of whicli appeared displayed Ix-neath as on a map from this elevation. I commenced my return, and on reaching the extreme craggy north point of the ridge, I took another sketch of our encampment on the other side of Clark Bav, with Cape (irinnell and the headlands seen jutting out beyond it to the north. The spot on which I stood was a rugged crag, overhanging Wellington Channel; the cha.sm or deep gorge which cleft the crag in two, forming a stetp and precipitous descent to the beach lielow, was in part treacherously arched over with a frail crust of snow, rendering it a dangerous place to approach in a thick snow-drift, as one false step would hurl the wanderer headlong into the frowning gulf IkIow. The brown weather-woni surface of the limestone strata was so arranged in horizontal layers on either side as to resemble reams of brown paper piled one alM)ve another more than anything else ; as these vertical sections, on which the snow couUl find no resting- place, peered from beneath its otherwise universal covering of the land In the valley lx;neatli lay the still frozen surface of the lake. Lookiiig up channel the northern horizon presented a very remarkable tint of the deepest indigo blue — a peculiar tint, 1 do not recollect ever having seen before, and lK)un(ling it like a narrow band or streak, the sky elsewhere oeing overcast all round, with the excepticm of a wild glare of light which gleamed through the black canopy shrouding Cornwallis Land on the opposite shore. I heard the lively note of the snow-bunting, the only indication of life around us in this still and desolate solitude. We neillicr saw l)ird or Iwast else througiiout tiie wiiole of our excursion. Occasionally a truck of the fox or liare met tlie eye, and we saw the fl " fivini Ivntrlnnd diirintr nnr nb^CnCC. havin"' morniu'' on her homeward \ ovagc, was quite unexpected Ec3 sailed a.^ain this >ia f't I winged a young silvery gull here {Larus urgentatus) which 1 t(M)k on hoard with nic alive. As soon as we had finished our dinner we shoved otf, and instead of going round 1?«;echey Island made sail across Union Bay (the winter's floe having cleared out during our ahsence). The moon shone brightly forth just alwvetlic cairn on the summit of Cape Spencer. Pvounding tne {wint of tiie spit, on opening the " North Star," she hoisted her colours, and we run up ours ; the bugle sounded on lx)ord, which 1 answered by firing off my gun. At 8.30 P.M. ran alongside, when I had the pleasing gratification of finding letters for myself from home, sent me by my friend Mr. Barrow, of the Admiralty, together with piles of newspapers brought out for the squadron. The following is a list ot the names of the crew, selecti'd from ten volunteers who offered to accompany me in H.M. boat " Forlorn H ^ic ". Thomas Rands, jvt., 30, Ice-quartermastt' Edward Millikin, „ Qf), Able seaman. . . ; j „ 27, Able seaman. # 39, Royal Marines. '.•..:' 25, Able seaman. ^ ,, ■ • •• , • 23, Do. do. Of the cool, steady, praiseworthy conduct of all, the unanimous good feeliiig shown towards each other, and respectful attention *o myself on all occasions, I cann*. t speak too highly. They deserve my warmest approbation ; and I trust that their meritorious sen'ires will not paas unnoticed. Thomas Rands I found a most able and ci'-r:--:^::--r^ Total - • - "fio" DniKNSioirs of the Polar Bear (Male), shot September 4th, 1852, ., ,. , in Grilfia Bay, vv ellington Chaimel. . , " Fet'L Inchn, ; ■ . ;;'■ Length 7 6 ■■'■"■ Greatest circi riifiTf nee of body - - - 5 6 Do. do. head - - - 2 8 -v ,. . Do. do. neck - - 3 3 vj '- Length of hea»''*-i» CMwall Tower, from Beechny Island. Concluding Reuabks on the search for Sir John Franklin, the probable position of the " Erebus" and " Terror," and fate of their crews. My experience during the late voyaoe and winter passed on the very same spot where Franklin spent his, and where all traces of him cease, have most decidedly confirmed me in the opinion I had ventured to express in my plans of search some five years ago, — viz.; that the missing expedition passed up tlxe Wellington Channel into the Polar Sea, and was to be sought amonsst the archipelago of islands and drifting packs of ice with which that sea is most unquestionably encumbered, and where the search should be made with efficient well-equipped boats adapted for encountering the pocks of ice, strong currents, and dangerous intricacies, inseparable Irom such a navigation, promising nought else but destruction to snips. From boats alone could any hope be entertained of a rescue of our gallant cuuntrynicn, ere they fell victima to the combined effects of frost and famine, — ^for in these two expressive words, all their privations may probably be summed up, — and if too late to save them, of discovering any traces they may have left behind them. At that early period of the search I believe I stood alone in this opinion. The general impression was, that the ships had been arrested in the ice to the south- ward and westward of Melville Island; consequently, the main efforts for carry- ing on the search took that direction. There are few perhaps who will now dis- pute my views, or their originality, which the Parliamentary records have secured. My reasons for coming to the conclusion I then did need not be recapitulated here, they having been fully explained in my plans submitted at the time, and subsequently, in the year 1850-2, accompanied by the first proposal made, for attempting the search in so high a latitude in an open boat, which I volunteered to conduct. This plan obtained the warm support of the Hy- drographer, Rear Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, and of Uear Admiral sir Edward Parry, (vrith whom I made my first voyage towards the North Pole,) who recommended my employment in very favourable terms in their reports of approval annexed to my plans laid before Parliament. I was at last sent out m the " North Star;" but the position I was necessarily placed in in that ship was not such as to enable me to act in the noble cause in the way I had hoped, and, being somewhat anomalous, renders it incumbent on me to be careful that my share in the search is not Itft open to miscon- ception. Here I may, therefore, l)e permitted to draw attention to the fact that, could I at once have proceeded up the Wellington Channel on the first arrival of the " North Star," at Beechey Island, on the 8th of August 1852, with my boat's crew of volunteers, instead of licing detained until the 19th of the same month, — by which delay we lost the last eleven fine days of the season, and best portion of it, in which boating operations can he carried on in those scus, Wellington Channel being as open as the Atlantic, 219 & a8 far m the eye could reach from the summit of Beechey Island, which, with Cape Riley, I ascended on the day of my arrival; the season lu un- usually open one ; with little or no ice, and the wind blowing from the southward and eastward fresh and fair, — there was nothing to have prevented us from doubling Cape Sir John Franklin, and proceeding round by Jones Sound into Baffin Bay, before the north-westerly gales set in, which at a later period we met with, those winds would have proved fair for our return down Jones' Sound, sheltered under the lie of the land, round by Lancaster Sound and Barrow Strait to Beechey Island, thus completing the circumnavigation of North Devon, and an entire examination of its shores. Subsequent events have proved that all this might have Iwen accomplished in the season. W • ve were enabled to get away from the ship winter had already, the day before, set in. After an absence oi' three weeks exposure to a succession of north-westerlj' gales, and altogether the most Iwisterous weather that I ever before experienced, as described in the preceding narrative, I, however, had the satisfaction of setting the Baring Bav question at rest; viz., that there is no communication whatever between that bay and Jones' Sound. After my return I wrote a letter to the commander of the expedition early in the spring, offering to explore Smith Sound into the Polar Ocean as far us the season would permit of, if I was given the command of the " Mary" yacht, u decked boat of twelve tons, cutter-rijjged, and well adapted for such a service ; as, in addition to the greater quantity of provisions and stores which she would stow for a prolonged search, she would also possess the advantage of greater safety in a sea that might endanger an open boat, more especially if deeply laden, as the " Forlorn Hope" was. My former boat's crew having volunteered to accom- fany me again, and cheerfully expressed their willingness to follow me wherever led them, it was my intention to have brought the " Mary" across the Atlantic home, afk'r completing provisions and fuel at some one of the dep6t8 at Pond's Bay, or the southern shores of Tiancaster Sound, instead of risking her getting beset for the winter in the iicnvy pucks with which Barrow Strait was filled tiiis season. My object in the \oyage up Smith's Sound was to have made as near an approach to the Pole as the state of the ice would have permitted. I believe that if ever the North Pole is rcuchetl, it will Ik; on the meridian of Smith Sound. I may here offer a few suggestions on the probable fate of the missing ships and their crews ; having myself entertained sanguine hopes of discovering some truces of them in the higher latitudes which it was my intention, if possible, to have reached, had the command of tiic " Mary" been given me. This, however, was declined by the Commodore, and in the answer which I received from him to my offer, dated on board the " Assistance," 26' h JiUy 1 853, the reasou assigned was that, " Nothing now remains undone in that vicinity." Every hope of making myself further useful in the cause being now at an end, I had no other alternative left me than to return home in the " Phoenix," having dime all that it was in my power to do. There are several ways by which a ship may be destroyed — by fire, by foundering, by collision with ice, or by licing driven on shore. Either of the first two casualties might easily entmgii happen to a single ship ; but as it is in the highest def-rec improbable that two ships should together share the same fate, these two modes of accounting for the loss of the Polar ships may at once be disposed of. The third, by collision with ice, carries with it a greater amount of probability. Even this, however, in the case of the " Erebus" and " Terror" seems to iiie a very unlikely catastrophe to have happened to two ships so strongly built and so well additionally fortified by the stoutest doubling as those ships were, rendering them capable of resisting an amount of pressure from ice truly astonishing, as I ciui, from my own personal observation, vouch for. Having seen them beset in the immense packs of ice in the Antarctic seas, consisting of floes mostly of great thickness and density, the latter quality being greatly increased from the tcmperatiiie never rising above the freezing point within the Antarctic circle even at midsummer, consequently exerting no thawing influence on those \ ast fields of ice, which, when put in motion during the agitation of the great southern ocean by heavy gales, I have often seen the fi.on<»fl, «♦' ♦!><»'♦ Fr»»hiie" innat- sov#»ri>lv tpstojl hptwppn hinri' fiensp masses of violently grinding past her sides, tearing and rolling up her stout m blue ice UN) oopper Hheathin^ like m naioh tadirN* curl-paper, whiiNt every (N-ain iiml tiiiilter in her have been creulcinff and groaning, and the rudder alnioMt wniii)( trout itM faateningi). ire with which tiu Hihh mid packH \vitliin tlic biiyH and straitH of the Arctir circle vnn no more Ik- coinpantl than tlie ice on the mirface ol' the Seriu-utine ran witli the Hnekn oecntnt in the Spitz- berm'n hc&h. I have entered more tally upon the ettectt* of ice than I xhouhl otheiwise have done, in eons«'(jueiiee of Inning freiiuently heard tiic Io-^n ol the " Hreudal- bane" hired tranM|K)rt, cited as an example of the Iosh of Sir .lolm l''ianklin'n xhipM, mimy ]'er<4oiis jumping at oiu;e to tlic ('ouelii-«ion that the latter muxt liuve been crushed .aid ingulted in the same sunanury way un the lailucky transport was. The two cases, however, are widely ditl'erent. The '* Hnadiilbaiie" wan known to l)c an old vessel, which the owners had not sutficiently doubled or strengthened to enable her t« resist vww a moderate liegree ot ])ressure lrt)Ui two rontending tiocs; the couse(|uence wuh, they went through her bottma, and she disapjH'ared i)eneatli them within a qu irtcr of an hour from the time she was first caught in the " nip," us I was a witness to myself from the deck of the " Phu'nix," which ship was in the same " nip." The Americati whaler " M'Lellen" lost in Melville Hay in the season of iH.'j'i, is another instance brought forward in support of this opinion; but she, also, was an old worn-out ship, and her tindxTs very defective where the floe-edge caught her »ide and stf)ve her in. This 1 saw myself as I went on board of her at the time, she having laconic a wreck immediately inaler the bows of the "North Star," carry itig away that vessel's C4it head. Hut to draw any comparison In-twi'eu those two vessels and the *' Krebus" and " Terror" would bt! like compuriuj; the cracking a hollow tillnrt with the hardest ivory nut. Much has been said about the ships having liecn forced out of Krebus and Terror Bay, and of their having Kit indication-^ iK-hind tliem of a hurried departure. On what grounds these surmises liiive tiecn found<'d it wouM be somewhat ditlicult to divine. I passed a whole year in that bay, and whatever may l>e said to the contrary, I believe it *o be utterly imi^ssible that any vessel could be driven out of it aftci- having once been frozen in : a more satiL' bay for wintering in does not exist along the wlii>le line ol' coast. Its very fault lies in its security, the difficulty in getting out again when once within it, us the bity- tl(H' rarely breaks up lielbiv the end ot August or lieginning of Septemlier. The " North Star" getting on shore there hud nothing whatever to do with the liav, an«l was an event in no way calculated to compromise its ciiaructer tor safety. The spot where the " Krebus" and " Terror" laid was evidently near its western extremity, in the curve ol the bay formed by the shingle ridge, ex- tending out from Beechey Island on which "the graves" are sit.iated ; the close vicinity of the magnetic observatory, the armourer's forge, the wushing-pluce at the water-course, and the small garden not much farther off, with thei-aim above it — all combined to point out this as the winter (|uarters of the ships, and a more secure one could not well have Inen fixed upon. in fact it was the onlv position in this buy in which a ship would Ix- altogether secuix- from being driven on shore by any sudden ingress of ice in the autumn lietbre the winter's floe was firmly formed; and, as such, could not fail to have lieen selected by one of Sir .lohn Franklin's judgment and exjH'rience. I saw nothing whatever in support of the notion that the departure ot the ships was a hurried one, but much to convince ine that Franklin and those with him hud not idly passed their winter here, to which the sites of tents in various din'ctions, sledge- tracks, and everything else bore ample testimony. Further, I am of opinion that sledging-parties from his ships had been up the Wellington Channel, and reasoning upon what I know may Ih' accomplished even in midwinter, where energy exists, as in such men its Franklin and my lamenti'd friend, that soul ol enterprise, the noble-minded Bell6t, these sledge jouniies were very probalily extended licyond (Jape Liuly Franklin — men to the portal of the Polar Ocean. Their tracks round (Jape Spencer in the direction of Cape Bowden, clearly point out the course they had in view ; here no iiiduce- inent could be held out to tiie sportsinn to tarry, there is not even suliicieut game for a siugle gun, far less to render it an eligible spot for pitching a tent as a mere shooting station. The swampy flat, iutcrsected by suiall lake^ aud water courses, in the viciuity tA' Cwwall Tower, i* the only Hpot when- thi- vrry it'w Htragg1inf{ wild fowl that iilight i 1 thi^ l)arren limestone ivj<;i>'n, on their way north, are to hi- met with; and hen' I ha\e t'ollow<(l I'rnnklin'N Hierfjje trarks over the low shingle ridges in the direction ot the lower, which was (Unditless their shooting station 'I'he (tledgcs iiinst have passed in tiie simimer season when the soil was pluHtic enough to leave impressions ot their tracks behind them. ( 'aswall tower is an isolated precipitous m.Mint, l)etvcen three aiui foui hunhip between six and sivm a.m., without has ingiiicun-ed even n frost- bite, and after an al»hition and breakfast, felt as fresh as ever. I am, therefore, led to the conclusion, that .Sir John Franklin's travelling parties mav have con)inenced their jonrneys up the ^^•eUington Channel, with the first appearanoe of the sun above the horizon early in the month of February, and afti'r the discovery that tiie strait between the Franklin Capes m the Qireen's Channel opene|H'ii wiittT til the nortlnMinl, or ut any rHJr ab«'ii''.' of land to olwtnirf his proffrrwi in thi»t dirrctioi), In- ininht n-acli a \xr, \\'m\i lutitiiilr, mil ^(lin a himmI urtinji of t\\v I'hitv NlamlH, k-toir In- f' d a Nouth-wcHtcrly coiir>' lor lUhrin^Vt Strait, As tin- nranon tor iiavinatio.i rtMiiaining afhr the firi't ot .^'"|ittiiilKr, \voul»r, iinfssarily >' wry sliori our, !»• wax prr)l)al)ly o\frtiik«'n Ity ^iiittr, |H'rliapH soiiw nIx or wxin hiiiiiircd \i\\\v» from CniK' l.adv Franklin, in a liijuli latitiuic, ami iMWft'ldy wi-ll to tlir wTsfwarrl. (laving tluis attnn|)(('(l to follow up the irac'. of tlir iniforttinatc ships no tar, \i\ soint'thin^f likf iiiilu(fi\r n•asonin^, tou'idod on inti-n-nci-s drawn from a know U>d^r of till- oliit'ct tlicy had in view, and t lie iiaist prohalili- tvcntN and incitlcnts liktK to Ixsct tlutn in their path to mar its attaimnnit, we now (M tor upon a fiild of s|M'culation, wide nioiigh indird to till a voluniv of it.si'lf. I laving alrt-ndy i-xtcndt-d thesf n-nnirks to a ^r^•aU•r Irngtli than I had intended, I will wind them up with a tew wohIm on the ronclusion I have eontc to in my own miixl, as to the fate of our ^allanteountrymen. Speeulative aaaciy oninion u|H»n this sidjject, I am aware, must neeesHarily lie, I have not arrived at mine either |)reinaturely or hastily. Nt> one hut those who may have near relatives in the e.\|H>dition, ean possibly have felt dee}M.'r interest in this hapless seareh from first to last than I nave, imless it is my friend Mr. Marrow, whu.te untiring exertions and de\oti(in in this nohle eause staixl unecpnilled. Various assoeiations eond)ined to enlist my own sympathies in this seareh. They were my old Nhi|ts, and en^aj^ed in a field of discovery to which I have lonj^ Iteen ardently devoted, and in which my thouf^hts have In-en centred from my earliest youth, in addition to which there were those o» Iniard of lH»th siiip.s who were well known to me. My own impression is, that on the dosing in of their second win'er, the ships were cither dri\fn into some iidet, where tliey may have U'l-n lilocked up ever M ercv 1\h\ or since In the Polar pack, as liiipp«ned to the " Investijtator m that they have Inen driven on snore h\ the strong currents which set from the north-westward, when lulplcs>l\ U-set in the pack, drifting alMuit in the narrow straits wliirii si-pnratc one island from another in tl>is Arctic archi|K'la^o. 'riicy may, possibly, have reached c\en as tar west as that laiffe tract i I land whose mountainous and lot^y ^ranitit- ]ieaks were seen by the " Herald," thus barring tlieirlurthcr progress westward. Hut, imderany of these circumslanccH, it d(H's ni't follow that tjic liv«s of those t»n board would U- necessarily involved in immeiliafe dcsf ruction, iven where the ships stranded on some shore. They woidd, in all probabilitv, be able to save the greater part of their jirovisious and stores (as Sir Kdward I'arry did in the loss ot the " I'ury," on Fury lieacli ; and which, years afterwards, proved the bajipv means of preserving the lives of Sir .lohn Hoss and his party ). They might budd huts and supply themselves with fuel from the wreck, and linger out an existence as long as then' resources lasted, liut here however, reluctantly, I must at the same time acknow ledge, that there would be but little prosjK'ct of adding nuich to tlu'se in the region in which their disaster would be likely to hap|Hii In proof of this. I have only to add, that had t lost my boat and the pro\ i-ions when up the Wellington Channel, my iMiat'ti crew and myself could not have exisltd— iilt hough numlH'ring only seven — on the produce of our guns, for one month ; and I had two or three good shots in my party, U'sides In-ing mys«"lf an old sjK)rtsman, and rartly threw away a shot without ilitaining something fori'. Wild fowl, (h)ubtless, migrate to the very Pole itself to rear their younir ; ln,t this (Kcupies onl;- a short jx-riod of the season ; an(l the supplies to W obtained from such an uncertain source would l)f ina(U(|u:ite e\eii for present wants, far less so to Ibrm a winter's store for a ship's company. Sad as the rcHection must k-, it is in vain to deny that the time has arrived when, indeed, it is "hoping against hop*-." and which suggested to mc the nninj' ot' "Fcilnrn II()|k' ' tor my boat. Nearly nine years have now elapsed since oi. r cou'itrymen left then slums ; and, although I have l)een to the last one of the most sanguine in my hofK's, I cannot help feeling now, that traces of their fate is all, imhappilv, I have too much n-ason to fear, that remains to Ik- dis- covere«l of tlu-iii. tint even this in my opinion will never Ik- accomplished bv ship-. Nought else than the disastrous fate of the gallant Franklin and his followers can be possibly aiuicipated as the result of anv attempt made bv ships. ■ R. M'('<.HMICK, k.N. •223 A few SidORwTioNR on the I'rk>«rh\ai'ion oI' HKAirii in l»«liir (Jliincii. Havin(i hiul undtT cnnMidcruiion the In-st ni«-anN of iTcipinff Hcurvy, and pre- H^•rvin^ lirnltli in tin- Arctic pckidus, I dccin it niy duty to sumnit lie lollowintf brief remarks for the ii«e nt future \«iyiiKirx. in h<» doing, I Nhiillci.ntine inyHcR' wholly to the rcKullsof niy own exjKTience during ii |H'ri<«l of some years piiMsed in the higlier latitudes, feeling confident that attention to the [irecepts here incul- catetl will Mecure for tluxe who may tbllow me an Miucessful an exenintion from icurvy an|Hrties, injurious to the system, and dete- riorutinj; the condition of the circulating fluids and secretions generally — inducing a dehilitated hahit of iHxiy, favouruhle to the production of scurvy, uinler cireuinstunees of j>rivation and ex|)osure, and other exciting influences, calculated to call it into action. In fact, if is my lielief that the origin of every case of (tcurvy may Ik' fairly traced to the use of salted meats. Ill the present age of inventions and improvements there can be no lack of Huhstitutes, and excellent ones too, for the hard salt beef and pork, and the whole category of drie«l tongue8, hams, \'c., which constituted the s«'a stock «)f bygone years, when every shi|) in a long voyage, as in Anson's time, lost great nuinlRTfi of the crew. N:>w, wo have preserved meats, }M)iiltry, soujis, |KMiiiiiican, and fresh bacon of all kinds. The latter article, which was sii|(j)lied lor the first time to the expe- dition now out, es|MTiallv that preserved in tins ftir the use of travelling parties, proved the most ^aluabie iw'dition of all to the scale of Arctic victualling; its freshness and mildness re!aiering it easy ol digistioii, an'-'ed fruits — apples, figs, prunes, raisir- , and almonds, &-c. — arc all objec- tionable. The best diluents are tea, cotie*-, and ihocolatc, more esi)ccially the patent cluK'olate which the travelling parties were supplied with in the last expedition. Of spirits and wines, the less taken the better; good sound malt liquors are preferable in all respects, coinbininii, as they do, a nutriti\e with a stimulating property. ()n tlie subject of cloUiing I have only to observe that I found the Govern- ment pilot-doth suit, w.'.i a " sou'-wester," the most generally useful in summer or winter; but for boating or sledging, in severe weather, I know of nothing equal to the Kscpiimaux -i al-skin dress and fur boots.* A common blanket bag I have always found far more ctimfortabic than a felt one for sleeping in, when uwuv travelling, with a bnrt'iili robe licnenth it. (if medical treatment, little is retpiired. The bracing effects of alow, dry tcin|)eraturc, and the absence of all moisture in the atmosphere for a large portion of the year, so that not a i oiid can form in the clear blue sky, render catarrhal and otiier aflections lesultmg from atniosi)lieric transitions of rare occurrence. During the dark and monotonous season of winter, active exercise in the open air, on the floe or on the land, is the very best preservative of healtii, aided by proper attention to diet ; the mind being at the same time engaged in rational occupations, reading, writing, sketching, or whatever may be the bent of indivi- dual taste. * Tlif.".' mipplird I" tli<; .•xpedilion by :Mi-. Ki'lianl .Ii Ot. of No. I. lliinwny Street, Oxford Stre«!t, 1 licliovc, 2»vu iiuicli siitisfuclitm. .1 1.' •• 'm When sutticient exercise is not taken, and the diet haH been too full and liberal, a congestive state of the internal organs is often the result, attended with a drow ess during the day and broken rest at night. The best remedy I have found iii such cases is a six-grain dose of calomel, and, to allay the dis- position to watchfulness, about u scruple of the compound ipecacuanha or Dover's powilci, given at l)ed-time. Loss of upj)etite, from want of tone and energy in the digestive organs, sometimes follows the effects of a long and tedious winter in some constitutit)ns. A wineglassiul of (juinine wine, given twice a day, is the most etiicacious remedy in the?" cases ; it is liest pit'pared by dissolving al)out a scruple of quinine, with the same quantity of citric acid, in a >vincglassful of water, and then adding it to a Iwttle of wine, either port or sherry, as may best suit the occasion. In conclusion, I have only to add, in confirmation of these views, that in three \oyages which I have made to the I'olar regions — two to the north and one to the south, the latter of four yean*' duration, — embracinjj every possible transition of climate and exposure, I nave never lost a single life, or even had a case of serious sickness or scurvy throughout a period of Polar servicre falling little short of seven years. R. M'CouMicK, R.N. Dr. M'CoRMUK to Captain Sir E. Bkuhkr, C'.B., H.M.S. " Assistance." Her Majesty's Ship " North Star," Krebus and Terror Bay, sir,' ' " ■ Md March 18.5:?. I HAVE the honour to transmit to you a narratixe of my boat expedition up Wellington ('hamicl, and sledye journey round Baring Bay, in search of Sir John Franklin. Ihuing left the sliip on the morning of the I9tb of August, and rclurncd on board again on the night of the 8th of September last, after .in absence of three weeks, during the whole of which time the weather was most unfavourable for boat service, having iK'cn tempestuous and overcast in the extreme, — a succession of north-westerly gales, which, with strong currents, rendered the navigation of this channel :i very dangerous one for boats, and not a place of shelter iK-twccu the last bay and Baring Bay. After a week passed in a most careful search of Baring Bay all round, and ascending the inland ridges of hills, T neither found an opening to the eastward or a surface practicable for sledging over inland ; the whole forming a suc- cession of steep ridges, with intervening ravines filled with snow, and running parallel with the top of the bay. 'ITiere was no indication whatever of ojkii water in the vicinity; the gulls and other sea-fowl never sha])ed their course to the eastward. Therefore in all probal)ility .lones Sound, instead of continuing its course to the westward from Baffin Bay, soon trends round to the north-west. On my return down chaimel I carefully examined every headland and bay, unhappily witliout finding the shglitest trace of the missing ships. I'ive of these Imys, and several of the most prominent headlands U'tween I'oint Bowden and ('ajH- Osborn, not laid down iti the charts, I have availed myself of the usual privilege of explorers, and given names to them. My party returned on lK)ard in good health; and \ have great satisfaction in Ixjaring testimony to their exceeding good <'onduct, mid they having volun- teered to accompiiny nie again in the spring M-arcli, I have herewith to submit for your consideration my purposed plan for carrying out that search. In your letter of the l.'Uh of August last I was told that the " .\s>istaiice" Mild " I'ioneer" would complete the search of tlie Wellington Channel, and that my course nnist be to the eastward of this meridian. Sledging, thcrei()re, will he entirely (Uit of the question, as Lancaster's Sound opens loo early to permit of travelling over the ice to any distance and back again. The boat, however, which 1 had last (and we ha\f none letter adapted on t)oard) is wholly inadecpiate for so long a voyage as the one contemplated, viz., the exploration of .lones and Smith Sounds, more especially as since your ■iepartiue Commander Inglefield, in the " Isabel," has been so tiir up both these sounds as to render it very improbable that a lioat, stowing Iwrely a m month's provisions, could remain out sufficiently long to enable her to ucconiplisli anything beyond what he has already done. The plan, therefore, I ha\c to proposi' is, that the " Mary" yacht, left by Admiral Sir John Ross, and now lying here useless, should be placed at my disposal, with two additional hands, and ])rovisioncd for three months, with u gutta percha boat (left here by the " Prince Albert") for hauling over the ice, should the floes in the sounds not have broken up. 'I'o start immediately after the return of the party, conveying your authority so to do, and Uy which time the navigation in Barrow Strait will most probably be open. I am, iScc, R. M*C;oKMicK, R.N. P.S. The departure of the sledge parties for the rendezvous depots, being a month earlier than anticipated, a series of sketches, c;)mprising the headlands and bays Iwtwcen Bcccliey Island and Point Hogarth, Raring Bay, (which I liad taken for the purpose of illustrating a track-cliiut on which they are laid down from compass bearings), not being finished, I nnist reserve for a future opportunity.— R. M'C. The Sechktauv ok thk Admuialtv to Dr. M'C^ormick, R.N. Sir, Admiralty, i;Hh October \8!y:^. I AM ccmimanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to acknow- ledge the receipt of your narrative of an expedition under your orders in a boat of H.M. Discovery Ship "North Star,' up the eastern shore of Wel- lington Channel and round Baring l^ay, for the purpose of discovering traces of Sir John Franklin's expedition. My i^ords approve of yoiu- exertions on this occasion, and of the conduct of vour boat's crew on a service incurring both risk and hardship, and are satisfied with the ettbrts you made in determining the important (|uestion as to there being any connexion Ixjtween Baring Bay and Jones Sound. I am, \c. (Signed) W. A. B. Hamilton. J V 4 M 7« N -- :u) X CO I ■ I r Is !^.^ p M- ^M-uuck h I •X'l ^■: M' -Misirk ^ N a.l ) 1V2 31 .■■■ ■ './",»(•'--";",„ I'rliKO Al(i«; 'pf",'Bht«J .h:,:or,iini of SIR .10 UN HHAyRMN. 1 8 •■>:.'. 70 Tfi Uafi JOn.LiiJi" V Uir ,^eii ^ I '^::i.. '^O.. ^%:. ,=-:,,si^:»^..c,.t,-,_H.C. ,^i- ' * ^?* "* ' .' *?T"-': ' *? i! -' ' ' 'j ' '« »'i i i! !.'.% i' "■ ' I • eiW- ' K ' ' "^.' :y m ,'" -' mt !m :.ii:' !SKsSs;ssf- IW m— --. \ v ^^■=^ 7*1 lt\ 77 «\- M Ha ■:.:*._ :t::T::jv.E-; . . ^ t.;- -:.-J. _ m :eTo:i-:ri CA] THE COAST EXPL( -.\.. ^ siii ./j> noss. isj-Hx^ /' SIH jy/fKllARDSOX im hwum (jU'T.M'(U'RK. t85(' i> t; - -I _ A« .■^.-^ KV I .. i 1-.- .1 . t u C. 6 . riun 1' II A R 1 S H K W T N O T H R D I SCO V ERED BY CAPT.R.IE M. M9 CLURE, H.M. SHIP. INVESTIGATOR: A liS () COAST EXPLORED IN SEARCH OF SIR J. FR AN KLI N. BY STIf ,/J> /fOSS. lsy0. CAI'I.M' (U'liE IS50 Mf RAh. IS.yl. BY / '//A JTP KKNSKI)Y& M.RKhlXni85'i. \ X \ r :4P7: IN (rlh. FIELD . IH.^ 2 X . W . VAFl. SIR KIMP liKU lU:HJ8.T2.V:i E . A . I N CLE Fl ELD , COMMANDER H. HI .S. P H OE N I X. HYDUOGRAl'IIK OlFICi:. ADMIRALTY PKINCESS ROYA L (H P* O \ '--^^ 1 ^^^-^'^^/li D DOnJ lUi'illiNut I (I Sn-nay I. fi] UlUMifll W. ^f 1_ /ff ^- ¥ r icr -■4- — 1_ -i^-- — I — __i i_ -I- '^VScli'i 14 liiliuids Sir H In, IPRINCESS ROYAL LIODdN &U C C K B U F ELLESMERE ISLAND a X r - - -±==1 u'r/ ' SMITH .^r/.' :$ SOUND SirH hijilU '/hiA JONES SOUND N () R 1' 11 J) K V O N ^..f^,.# .V^ air: Uiut ^^•4, ^ Staiforxl 11"? PR U D -r— r 4- H E MEUV\ W^ e^^ B A F F I N BAY LANCASTER ^SOUND IP x» Jg V 7* 7.f COCKBURN M ,>,' I *;, V BANKS STRUT (X" I'.i'i-^ lUMhmd I 9\ y\. B A R I N C -JL :_ - /<^ /sr — nr^u^jT" :::-::::xr^i::-n::i_ /?<• i2S r:p lis .w^ n ■^' :'-^'^!m^^*^»^. - ,.a. ...i^;-_ca>^i; ■^"^■,^'f^rf^t'ntyf-^ '"***"-'^-'*^-f*'^SS?^ ";.^Tir"i-'i'ii4*.Sfc' '■ Vl Vl ^> 7 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ^ 1^ III 2.2 - i:s IIIIIM 1.8 Photographic Sciences Corporation // ^^ .<^t^. %' 1.25 |U ||i.6 ^ 6" ► 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 B o .^< 'irgr- K H i ra n/ c t of RtLFtKMMOi. 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