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 1 2 3 
 
 1 2 3 
 
 4 5 6 
 
/ 
 
The Tidal Thames. 
 
/ 
 
 'is 
 
'% 
 
 I, 
 
 4 
 
riie Lower Hojtc. 
 
/ 
 
Tidal Thame 5 
 
 \M I 1 1 
 
 ru'iixrv i'Uij..i\n.i: niiorocRAirRn pLJiiis 
 
 PrinU'ii on India pn/nr, and otiur Ulnstnitions, a/fey Orii^ina! Dmzvin<;s, 
 
 BY 
 
 \V. I.. \V\'LLI1-V A.R.A. 
 
 ^liiii Descriptive Letterpress 
 
 BV 
 
 C.RANT ALI.F.N. 
 
 C A S S i :. I . L & C O M I V\ N ^'. I . i M I r F D 
 
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 kkiiti \m> |!KI.vkiiki;k 
 
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 fHE Tidal Thames. 
 
 CMAI'TKi: I. 
 
 INTltoUUfToliV 
 
 1() tlif iiiiiids of most Eiinlisliiiii'ii. |i('rlia|)s rveii of most 
 Loiidoiu'is — at least, amoiifi' tliosc who live in tlu' <fivatt'r 
 l.omlon •':il>o\t' hridjiv" — tlio mcrt- iiaiiit' of tlii' Thames 
 ltiiii;;s up iiistiiictivoly tlu' mental pietuie, not of a vast 
 eomniercial hij.;li\va\. Imt of a |Kaceful and phu'id rural 
 rivei- — a river that runs in i|uiet channi'ls l»y locks and lasheis throu<,di the 
 midst of a fertile valley composed of lush u'leen water-meadows, and ridj^ed 
 round in the distance l>y shady Iteechen haii^-ers, that cliny in lony- lines to 
 the identic slopes of umlulat inj,^ chalk downs or the rounded sides of siuootli 
 and isolated santlstoue hills. The tirst images that rise at once before oui' 
 mental vision at the sound of the word are tho.se of Nuneham, with its hreadth 
 of oaken shade and its pretty rustic wood-work luidiit's : of Pannhourne, with 
 its autumn tinted trees and its foaming;- weirs of snow-white water; of 
 Whitchurch, with its picturestpie mill and its ipiaintly ,i>raceful elm-eml»owered 
 steeple , of Sonniuu. with its ovei- arching; avenues and its taiij^led hanks of 
 reeds and sedges: of llenlcv, with its leafv evot and its tall fiinye of chi.selv 
 
/ 
 
 a 
 
 /•///. ///M/. /7/I.I//.X 
 
 StMTictl |XI|llaiN ; nt' tllf lIlilKill^ ivV clllii tn\\.r> of Mcilllll'llllHIII. lllf llCMW 
 
 \\, Iter fV. lilt lit" siiiiliiiir Klnii. llic licli wiimls of iIiumI < 'Icvcilni. tlic lmy:i- 
 k('f|i ot'in\;il Wiihlxor. >illii .iii't tcil iiL'Min^t llic w.iiiii I'M'iiiiiL: >!<> iVuiii jinioiiLr 
 tlic i)iir|ilr loo-icstrifo iiml i^rttii i>i«.li<s of Kuimicy l,i>ck. TIun is tlx' Tli;imt'« 
 nt" tilt' nniiiiarv KiiLrlisli Nniinnir |i)mi»t ; tlir TliMiho <>u whose >il\ri' w iiiiliiii.'s 
 we liiuk tlowii witli ilcliLrlit tVi'iii till' iiiilri iil'_'c <>( tlx' triracc at Kicliiiiniiil : 
 tllf 'riiaiiics tliat Dfiiliaiii a|tn>ti(iiiliist(l in liis taiiHUi-* iaiiil>ii's iVuiu ('.iojmt's 
 Mill : till' 'riiaiiu'> that SpciiM r iiadc run ^uftlv past thf ii'il lnick watci- 
 iVtint tit' thf Klizalu'tlian Tfni|ilt' till hf -hmilil tiitl hi-. >\\t't'tfst iiiitj 
 |imt'>t niairiai:t' mhiu:. 
 
 r>iit tht'if is a sic.intl aiitl far i>tlii'i' Thaiiifs. Ifss untwartilx attraftixf 
 at first siiiht in its natural i'\tfrnal liiifaiinnts than this plufitl rnial 
 stifaiii. Vft rith in iiiaiiv liiiniaii tlfint'iits ,<\' thr ini>st jiictnifsinii' aiitl \i\it| 
 fliaiai-tiT — tllf titlal risfi- that s|i!t'iiils its hm^ if.-ifhfs in ni<>ni>ttini>ws \ft 
 fVfr-\ariftl siifffssiun t'n>ni tht- lius\ pit is i.f l.tunliin llritli^f tn tin- Nttitli 
 Ktuflanil ami thf ii|ifn sf.'i. AihI this is ;i|si.. in ninit' than tuif ntliff 
 sfiisf. tllf very trufst niitl nmst ;:fniiiiif 'riiaincs tif ;il| This is thf atliial 
 'riiaiiifs til' hisidiy aiitl til" funiiiififf : thf Tanifsi> nn whusr ii|i|)i'i' na\i'^'al"lf 
 stfftfhfs thf Ktiiiians Imill thf nifn-aiitilf tjipital nl' tlifir r>iitaniiif |iiii\inff : 
 thf Thaiiifs liy wlitisc innutli thf traflif tif thf fiitiif wniltl |itims tti ilav 
 ttiwartls thf Wfalthy niftrii|Mi|is ,,\' ninilfrn Kinilaml. This is thf Thaiiifs 
 which has niatif Ltiiiilun . it wtniM |k rhaps h.ntlh lif tuci ninth tti sav. 
 which has niailf nil fiuiiiiif it'ial I'.ritain. vifwcii ;is thf chitr tratliiiLT cfiitrf 
 ami fiitifpt'it tit' thf fi\ili-ftl .iihI nifitaiitilf wtnhl \Vf shall ha\f s,, niiifh tt» 
 :•!'> :"ii'l '<! -ff ill this Miluiiif III' thf ships ami stcanifis whiih thiw in ami 
 tint pfi'pftiially ti. ..i t'l.nii tht- I'mt tit' Ltnitlt.n. that a Itw wmtls. l,v wav 
 t>t intrtitlmtitiii. as tti thf mi'^in ami i-fastm ,,\' this naiitifal |iif iniiiit-nff 
 tif thf fhiff KiiLrlish ii\fi' ina\ iitit iif mit tif placf ht-rf. li\ wav tif prcfacf 
 tti tun- jiHiiiify n|i thf -ifat iia\i;;alilf hi;:liway. I'ltmi its tipfii sfawanl nitiuth 
 
 tti its hiirlicst lillal It'M'Is. 
 
 llisini: aintm- thf lnnkf litif iiplantis ,,f thf ('<iissvn|ii MiiU, whifh 
 
 ftiriii thf liackl • ami main ili\ idiic'-iiiliif .if Sc.iith wtstti n I'.iitain. thf 
 
 ytintlifiil Thaiiifs. instfad .if turnin- w.si\\ar.| i.iwar.ls thf upcii Atlaiitif 
 likf its n.iw tlistam-f.l sistti an. I rival, thf S.x.in, tniitls in a ufm-ral 
 
 tif 
 
JMHonucTony 
 
 8 
 
 castt'ih (liivctiuii, down tin- slow hIo|»oh, towiiids the (ii-iiiiaii Oiraii anil the 
 lMiro|M'aii contiiicMt. I'assiiijr ;r,.„t|y tlirou','li tlu; Icvl'I lowlands of (JlouceHU-r- 
 shiiv and Oxtoidsliiiv, it niiTts and nits its way tlii(tn«,di tin- liijirli contral 
 clialk ranj-f iictwtrn \ValliniL;»ord and Kfadinj;, iind <,'ivfs lise as it passes 
 to its most roiuantie inland seenerv in the wooded ;,'orxe liy Cioiinj,' and 
 ISIaplediirhani. At last it enieii,'es into the low-lying I.oiuhMi Itasin, as it 
 leaves the Hanks of the ehalky Chilteins in the rear; and here, flowing 
 through the centre of a saueer-shaped depression, formed l>y a bend in the 
 t<'rtiary strata which compose its lower valli-y, it soon reaches nearly to sea- 
 Icvcl, and Lecomes a sluggish, tawny, tidal stream from Teddington onward. 
 
 '"<" ' <•'♦■'' >'iv«r of Kurope docs the tide penetrate for so hmg a distance. 
 
 It is the size and directi«»ii of the Thames, comliined with the peculiar 
 positi(.n of the Ihitish Islands on the face of the glohf, that has turned it 
 into the great central water-way of modern IJritain. There are onlv five 
 large navigahle rivi-rs of the tirst importance in our island, and each of 
 th(»se five has given lisi- to a port and a trattie of a size strictly commensurate 
 wit!i its value as a highway at each particular moment of the world's history. 
 The Clyde has produced (JIasgow ; the Mersey, Liverpool; the Severn, Bristol; 
 the llumher. Hull : and the Thames, London. 
 
 A moment's consideration will show us at once why these things are 
 so. London owes its existing greatness partly to incontestable natural 
 advantages : partly to historic prescription ami i)ast exclusive conditions, 
 now found ;dmost e.pially well elst-where. If Kngland had t(» begin life 
 
 over again at the present day. it is possible that Liveri I or (Jla.sgow, 
 
 pointing as they do outward towards the Atlantic and the American, 
 Australian, and Asiatic W(.rlds, might, perhaps, outrun London in the race 
 for populafii.n. wealth, and trade. liut Lomh.n and the Thames had so 
 ni.iny centuries' start over the modern cities on the Clyde and the Mersey, 
 
 (hat a v.ist population had alrea«ly settled liy the ) I of the Tower while 
 
 they were still mere obscuri' Scottish or Lancastrian villages; and a centralised 
 .system of roads, railway.s. government, and society had .><o rooted itself around 
 the marshes of tlii' London region, that .-.ny idea of sup»'rcession became at 
 last practically impossible. In early times, and during the .Middle Ages. 
 the Clyde ;ind the .Meisey were Useless as havens: situated in the midst 
 
77//; 77/). I A rilAMHS. 
 
 of rt>UL.'Ii Iiillv ili>lrifl-«. llii\ I.Mikcil wi'^tw.nil luwiiiil-. tin' |iiillilts> Alliiiilif, 
 iiiit fiistw.ml tii\\;iiil^ tlic llicii civilixd wmld ; ;iiiil llicir ti|Mii iiioiilli^ \\v\v 
 tiMi »'.\|Mi>t'il to ^tollll^ imd ufi'iill >\\i'IN |i> .itt'i'id sjit'o nlirllor;iur f"<>l" till' 
 *.iiiidl coiistiiiu criit't I't' .'iiifuiit ii;i\ iL;;tI i<'ii. It \\;is imt till idtrf tlic di»oi>\crv 
 of Aiiuric.i. Mild till' oiuniii^ nf tlio Ciipc iiMitr to liidiii. tli;it Ij\)'I'|mioI 
 
 illld (d;i>L;o\V lu'Uilll lo UloW uITMI. KmII Uli^lnj, lllnllull it f'TIIlid till' I'lliif 
 
 port nf till' rirli ScNtiii \;dlr\. and r<>\ild tiadr a iittir with Iii'ImimI .'iiid 
 l>iird(';m\. lU'M'i' ruse into ,iii\ lii;^!! inijiurtaiu'i' till Wo^t imliaii ^ii-ar and 
 (illiiii'a >la\rs lir;^aii to atlmd aiii|ilr i'iii|i|ii\ nuiil fm- il> na-riiil >lii|i|iiiiL; 
 illtl'll'st. A^ to Hull, it lav tcm f;i|- ll'irlli. irnintr fliiin till' liii^y lifr uf tllr 
 
 soutlu'i'ii cuiintic^. tlnn tlir nm^t I'ivili^id and |irn-.|M rmis |i>ir'iiiin nf all 
 Kiiudaiid ; wliilo oxoii tn tlir |iii'stiit day il^ trade tiiin> alnin-<t riitiuly 
 towai'ds Scandiiiaxia and tlir llaltif. nnri' mils llir liappy lnintiii'.: u'i'"niids 
 nf iiaro li'u.ui'il |)aiii>li and Nniui'L'iaii piralos, j'.iii tlio 'I'lianu'^. iii'sidi's 
 lii'iiii:' till' dt'cpot and sifrst o-^tiiai'v and ri\<r in tlio linL;tli and liioadlli 
 of KiiLrland, Innkid diir rast tnwaicU till' ('niitinciit and tlir tlniiri>liiiiLj 
 ti'adiuir tn\vii> nf |•'lalldl'l■•^ and the Lnw ( 'n\int lir^ ; :ind it^ rliirf port lay 
 fai' in till' licait of tlio rniintry. >af(' fmni tlio attark- nt' Xikini:^ nr iiivadoi-s. 
 
 and in a mnMiiiiiit pn>itinn fnr tlic di^Irilmlinn nf l.' I>. a> well as at 
 
 till' c'l'iitii' nf a lar.Lrr and fruitful a-iiiulluial r.^inii, .Ml llic-.i' tliiii'^-s 
 
 luaiki'd nut till' 'I'liai > fmni tin- \iry iu'Ljitiiiiiij,' a^ tlir natiiial lii'.;li\\av 
 
 of |!riti>li niimiirii'r. and i.nndnn ;i^ tlir natiiial and iiir\ital(lt' nuporiuiii 
 of till' Tlianirs >lii|iprls. 
 
 Lmi'.: lirfiir till' Kmiian days, tin dniilit. tlir (J.'iuli^li inrnliant-- who 
 
 tratlii'krd with tlir srlili ri\ ili-rd nali\r-. lirlnll'.'illL: In ihr .-l-l ii'lllluial tlilirs 
 
 in Knit and K»r\ niii'-t ha\r l.iniiuht llirir i.rad-. .ind ilnth. and lunn/r- 
 warr lip thr Thaiur-. in mdr sailiii;.: \.»rN tn that piiinrval I.nndnn- 
 
 • thr hill liy thr | I." as thr naiiir mraii-. iMiii.,-^ iiitn prrtrd. in thr Crliic 
 
 lan-uaLTi' . and tlinr niu>t lia\r l.aitnrd thrin in npm palavrr with 
 Triiinliantr> nr Cantii. murli as Aial. m- I'.utu-iirsr nincliaiits iiartn- ih.ii' 
 warns nnwi.days with iirL;rn tiiiir> l.r-id.- thr tlaml.ia, tlir ( 'nuirn. or thr 
 Zainl.rsi. Hut it wa> thr Itnniaiis wh.p huili thr first rnii-iihrahlr tnwn 
 
 "*" I'<'llilnli. nil thr ] I lirar thr TnWVr Hill ;,|ld St, I'aill's. and whn 
 
 tir-t Ilinird thr tiailr nf ;, rivilisrd Kll'^lalld into thr l.inad rhanilrl nf Ihr 
 
jxr/ionrcrofty. 
 
 10 
 
 111 
 
 tibial Tliaiiii'M. Kioin (lu-ir tiinc onward, (lie tiallic (.f tlic TliaiiR-s Ims <roiu' 
 nil uiuwiiiM jiihI witlciiiiin' rniiii i\<^v to i\<n', without a .siii;,'li" clurk (»r 
 iiitfi\al. Kvfii till- litatlicii Saxoii coniiucst did not inti'itV'ic witli tl 
 o.iiiiiiricr of till- ^'ivat liver, for slioitly after the Teutonic settlement 
 Uritain, the Veiieraiile |!ede speaks of London as already "the mart of 
 many iiutioiis, s\ ho resort to it hy sea and land." Throii^diout the Saxon 
 period it reniaiiied the eoiiiiiiercial capital of all Kiiiiland, thouj,di tlie 
 royal city of the West Saxon kiii^^s was Winchester; and not only French 
 and {''leiiiish nieicliaiits sailed up the Thames, liiit also "the men of the 
 Kniperor came in their own ships," and towards the close of the period 
 the Ksterlin;;s from the Italtic frci|uente(l the port, and introduced their 
 
 own fiinioiis •■ Msleiliiiu ' or "Sterlinj; " weights and measures. I) 
 
 urin.n' the 
 
 whole <.f the .Middle Ai,r,.s the trade of njind 
 
 CIS and (Juieiiiie centred 
 
 upon London, and the city ,i,'rew yreatly, tirst uiiiler the early Plantaj^eiiet.s, 
 and then still mure under the lilieral and comnierciallv-niinded Yorkist kin"-.s. 
 
 Tl 
 
 ic yreat mercantile revolution which followed on the vova^es of Columi 
 
 (US 
 
 anil N'ascM di (;ania completed the maritime supremacy of the Thames and of 
 Kn,i;land. The Atlantic ports ipiickly drew to themselves all the Oriental 
 trade that had hitherto fornu'd the exclusive monopoly of Venice, (ieiioa. 
 and the Italian repulilics, while the newly-found commerce with America 
 .Uiadually tixed its principal home in Kii-,disli harbours. In our own time 
 navij,'ation has once more widened its liouiids ; as it leapt in the seventeenth 
 century from the .Meiliti'rraiu'au and the narrow seas to the i>road Atlantic 
 liasiii, so now it has leapt from the Atlantic hasiii further to emttrace the 
 Tacilic, the li'.li.in Ocean, and the China seas. Not India and America 
 alone, l)Ut Africa, .\ustralia, Polynesia, and the far Kast, have all entered 
 into the widening- cycle of European coninu-ice. These changes have each 
 ill its own way tended still furtlu'r to lU-vclop the trade of IWitain, which 
 happens to occupy the exact central position in the lu-misplieie of greatest 
 land : so that London and Liverpool are nearer to every port on earth, 
 taken together, than any other ports in the entire world ean possililv 1 
 
 < twill-' to this tact, joined with the insular positi f liritain, its larne 
 
 extent of sea-i(oard, its iiiinierous liarltours, and its yn-at facilities tor sliip- 
 liiiildiii^-, as well as its coal, its iron, its indiistri;il population, and its old 
 
 )e. 
 
Tin: Tii>.\i. Tii.\^n:s. 
 
 roiiiMU'irl.il or iiiiintliiif iii«*f iiii't-. Knu'liiml liiis iiiii|i!\ kipl ii|> Iht iiiiciriit 
 |iii^iti<iii .In tilt' cliict' iiitri'liiiiit I'uiiininiiwt'.iltli nt' ilir ('Utile \m>iIi| AihI tli<iii<.r|| 
 tilt' wi'^twiU'tl tiiiii ^ixt'ii li> lit'i I'tiiiiiiit'rt't' li\ tilt' Atl.'iiilit' iiii\ ii^Mtinii li.'i>« 
 
 tlistrtt'tl iiiiii'li tiatlt' tViiiii Liiiiijuii, aiitl li;io I'Mi^til < il,i>L;<>^^ Miiti i.i\t'r| I lutlif 
 
 M'l-iiiiil |>hit't' ill wt'.'ihli :iiiil |>ii|iiilatitiii aiiii>iii: I'liiti^li l<>\\ii>. \v\ tlif iialiinil 
 !nlvaiita,L;t's t>t" tlif Tliaiiit-.. as \sill as tlif aitilifial atlvaiitaLris iJiriMil fVniii 
 its |i<isitiiiii as scat tif' ;;ii\tiiiiiit'iil aiiti tfiitit' nf sufictv. Iiavf |iri's('i\t'il for 
 I.DiitJMii till' tii'st rank in t'liiiiiiKiti' ami s||i|l|lill;.^ ami li\ tar llif tiisi in 
 si/t' aiitl iiii|iiii'taiu-t'. It was imt witlimit Iiih' wit ami wisiluin that a 
 it'tVaittirv i.iiitl Mavtif aiiswiicil Kiir^' .laiiit's> threat t>i nimtse the ('mirt 
 til Oxfiiiil hy tile t'aimiiis niDck iii'iilest iftitit. "Max it jileasc \..iir Majtstv 
 iitit tti take away the Tliaiiits aUit! ' 
 
 The tratlif that thus sets steatlily with eveiy iitmiiiii'/ liile up the 
 iimiith iif the \i\i-M river ttiwaitis the I'mt nf I.timlmi has its |Mitiiit'sinie 
 as well as its nieitaiitile ami material as|tet't The titlal Thames is the 
 most woiuU'iful »'mlMnlimeiit on earth of the eteiiial seat'aiiiiL: iliama ; it is 
 the e|iitoiuo of e\ciythin.i,' that eaii he seen i.r pietiiivtl in the life of tlieiii 
 that iro ilowii to the LTitat (lt'e|i in ships. The lnwei reaches of the 
 rivi'i- have none of that syhaii tir rural Keaiity which maiks the whole 
 course of the Thames l.efure it iltvelt.ps into a main luL'liwav of the scaltereil 
 naliitiis at I-ontloii UriilLre Tlie shores nf Kent ami Ks^'N are fr.r the most 
 part llat aiitl maishy. nr where they rise into ilowiis ami iiil;,'es are too 
 
 ilistant fitpiii the chief ceiilial chai I to loom up in aiiv lai^'eness uf diii line 
 
 i»r distinctness of elevatit.n. as seen from the freipiinieil maritime track 
 " Dismally u.l'I.v. tluU. ami mom. torn. us" is ;,'eiieially the imiiittliate \enlict of 
 the impartial foivi-ner who makes his tirsl aopiaintance with the asp.rl ..f 
 iJritaiii from the ileck of a steamer iipwanl Ih.iiimI. Ami vet, tti tlios- \\h<i 
 
 liave the eye for seein.LT it. there is reall\ a marvellous wealth of pictures.pieliesH 
 
 an.l i.eauty on the tawny turl.iti l..,s.,m .if the -ivat ami thickly-peoplf.l 
 Kn-lish estuary. In every part the water is alive with l.oats ami ves,s,.|.s 
 «.f every kiml : .lusky liar^es. with uMvat rus.s,.t iv.l saiU, lackiiiLT across the 
 narrow reaches. li._,|,t shrimpers, with their nets .lra.L:-in,- loosdv l.ehin.l, 
 
 ■■""' ''"•'■■ """ "•"' '"'.vs all ea-eily pivin- their task in tl pen channel; 
 
 liu-.' .iceaii-oiii- stianieis, hiiiryin- up uml.r all steam to make the iN.rt 
 
/ 
 
 rxmo/tt/cTo/n: f 
 
 • •f Luiiilun liflniv the sliinlt's of cvciiiii-; ; wliitt'-sniltMl viiclits. with i<lk' 
 <Kvii|.niits |..||iii;Lr liixminiisly mi tli.-ir sputlcss decks, tind \vat<-liiii;,' la/ily the 
 I'lisy sc.-rH" that flits fantastically Lcforc tliciii ; and chinisy-lookin;; hilly-ltovH, 
 the very ideal of utter awkwaidness in the Iniild of a slii|i, yet udinirahiy 
 jidapled fur perforniin;,' the one particular piece of special work for which 
 they are desi-;ned Ity the practical iutelli;,'ence of their cunnin;,' ImilderM. 
 Then there is the ct»llatt-ral interest derived from the land-marks aiul sea- 
 marks of the hest naviy:ated stretch of water in the whole world— the -;reat 
 red lijuhtships, the tall ;;aunt lieacons. the parti-coloured huoys, the trainin;;- 
 
 ^'''l'"< <"<"l hy the shore, the Ion;;- U'vel expanses of shining' <^ivy mud, 
 
 the Mack wrecks. ;4iown ;,neen with han.uin;r tresses of slimy sea-weed, that 
 show their liiyh prows and liattered ti;;ure-liea<ls ahove the silvery line of 
 dry sands at low water. All these thin-s, thou^-h passed i>y uuol»served (»f 
 the casual tourist who steams doM u the Lower Thames on a ^'ay packet- 
 lioat for .Antwerp or Ostend. are suhjects on which the seeker after the 
 |tictures(pu' loves to linj^er for a while, and wliicJi the artist loves to seize 
 as they show themselves, for a moiui-nt, temptin;;ly before him in all their 
 wonth'rful richiu'ss of native colouring;'. In the nuitter of colour, indeed, 
 there is prohahly nothing; on earth that <,'ives us so luiich variety and inten.sity 
 of hue !is the Lower Thames. And whoever wants to .see and understand 
 the ;;real river thus at its liest. in its own peculiar moods and dull leaden 
 harmonies, enlivened l»y its rust-red sails and puiple li;j;hts and crimson 
 beacons, should cruise and heat aliout its mouth with us for a week or two 
 of sunny or stpially autuum weather in a small yacht or sailing' ve.s.sel. The 
 careless yiee of the sea will soon oveicome him. In ten days or a fortnij-ht 
 he will have leained to love the river, and all that helon<;s to it. with a 
 yachtsman's atK-ction, and at the end of that time will return home to his 
 London (piartt'is. invit^orjitcd liy sea-lireezes and the (leli<;hts of roughin" it. 
 if not a wisci', at least liv far a hrownei- man. 
 
-" ^ 
 
 •«si.^je*1 
 
 
 Till. t.iMiliwiN »»Mii. 
 
 CM A I'TKl; II 
 
 nil: N"i;iii \<<\;\\ \\\< \\\i mi; ,,n\ Mhi in 
 
 UK IK'.lt litllc rililnlM.;il.| \;iu| /',/////,, ..f' -tX i||t< ill ImHn 
 liimlni. nil uliu-r ijick \\r ^tait to lll.ikr cilir \i,\;|M,. ,,|, 
 thr \.l\Mlillir i->tll;il\ cif thr 'ril.-llll.-. I'lnlll il> IIKillIJi tu 
 l.i'll.i.ill r.riclL;.., with rMlililiil.il (|i\, 1-1.111^ into ilC.k^ ,'lll<l 
 
 >\\;it(li \\,i\^ Mil litliii ^i.lc. i> ,1^ <|ii:iiiit Mini im|i| lu.ikiiiL: ii 
 
 siii.ill ciiit't ;is veil wiMil.l uish lu M-, aiiN Kn-li-li li>l,il \\at.r> Sli.' 
 
 iaiik> as a \arlit l.\ mint.M niil\ . i|i;,i j. t,, ,;,\ ,1,,.,,. j, ,1,,,,. ,.;,,,.j_,,„.y 
 
 iiikI.t wliirh ynii ...iilil |M.-^il.|\ |,|,ir.. |i,i. .umI III,-, I ..iir uill aii-wn at l.a>l 
 iis wfll as any iiiia-inalij,. m iiiia'^iiiai \ alt.i iialiv.v II. i ..un.i au<i ski|.|..i 
 .•liii>t.'iic.| lirr thr /'>ij/in \ur:tu^r ..f 1,..|- riii i, ,ii^l\ Mai.].- I. nil. I an. I v,-i\ 
 iviiiarkal.lr ln.a.ith ..1 l,.aiii. Sji,. .Iiaw^ ii.> n„.i,. il,;,,, iIh,.,- \\-,\ ,,r u;,i,.| 
 at a |.iiM-li. ul.i,.li .nal.l... I,.i t.. u-. anwNh.i.. that a man .-an ua.j.- uith 
 his i.iv.vh.s ,.tV with..nt u.ttiii;: his ,|,iit : >,. ,h.. mak.s a .apital l..,at 
 fur sk.t.'hin- a-i.l paiiitin- in, a> v.u .an |.nt h-i al..nu>i'l.' a ui.vk ..i a 
 •"■"•"'I. <'!■ 'mi int.. a >liall..u .-n.-k at |..w uat.i uili„„it an\ i.f.n.n,,. ,.. 
 thr Stat.. n\- xU,- ti.l.. .,1 tl... i.n.l.al,!.. .|..,„h ..f th. nax i-al.).' .hann.l If 
 sh.- Lrr.ani.is. it .l.-.^n t at all matt.i-, a. -.!„■ ,it, l..,|, „,,ii,,|„ ,,„,, ,,.,„. 
 
 ""•'"'■''''*■ ^'■■'''''''> "" ''"■ • I'l> l-tt,,n,, aii.l «h.n ih.^ ti.l-. .■.,in..> ii,, a^aii, 
 
 slu- in.i.K l.iiiii,,, ,,|„... .,, ,„i,,. I,,,.,,, Hdain^ |,..r...|f. ;,,„l ,|,,„ .,,, ,,„,,.,, 
 
 "•"•'■ """■'■ "^ '^"" "^ ••^'■' ^''- I'- 'Hlniiial.l.. >..a^..iii, .,n;.li,i.... ,,„, ,„., 
 
. / 
 
 The Downs. 
 
-4 
 
 _4^ 
 
 't 
 t 
 
/ 
 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
 .^-J; 
 
 ■& 
 
 i 
 
 \ *Sf^' 
 
 :4^' 
 
 ^ 1'.'-^- 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
 / 
 
 K 
 
/ 
 
 rut: xniirii n>/u:/.\y/K 
 
 ''"" ''^'•'' '•' «'' •'""•• «'"'" "ll«' llyh little cplHOilr of iiiiHfy w.-mJImt that 
 
 .ll..\.. ,1 «,„„{ ,„„„v j.Miv iil,l,r,| Mlviks Mh to thr uj.lr .liylillin^' ,,i|mIh „f 
 
 •'"' Kniti^li Kii.Hk-,, ..I hiiri.'il tlinii ,\r>\> in tlir lmii;fi\ h|i..iiIh ..I" tin- 
 ilr\(Mll ill;; (iniiilw ilii 
 
 '•''"■ '"■'■ '"'i '"'■•Il'l 'lir /•//////,. tllnl|«|| fXivllnit of iti kill.l. 
 
 '^ l"'"'>''l ii' '|""">''>. "'"I ''.V iM. iii.iiiis iiiiiltilv liixiiiiMii.^ ill «|iiiilii\. 
 
 \\\ rilin il nvu ,,\ lliivr IiiiImU, nil tu|.| ; nnr of thrill lMi|i;f tl W li.T tinij 
 
 Hki(i|H'r; uiM' II iVirii.l iiiiil liiuilici iiitist with n kmi cvr to tlii' jiL-slMct 
 iiml nil iiiiinlr -niiii^ i;,r thr inaniitiKt iiiv cf snsuiiiv «lf\\ : whih' tlir thin! 
 ■■'""' '"-' '^ •■' 'II""' iminili.il'cl hiiiiUinnii niul |iii^sniM,.r, with n rhnit ninl n 
 
 ""'"■' ^ iii"l.;i.| uf nil .'n-fl, nii<l n ^t vln.,r,n|i|iic pen iiiMiml n\' n |iniiit 
 
 '""''' '" ''"• 'i"> '"''ill lli'i'- is just I'lMiiii .•ii.M|n|, i;„- ,1 \\,^y w.mmIcii 
 iMiiiks. with Ihi'ii n|i|iiu|>i'int.' iii;.'s niMJ l.lniik.ts. t..-.tliir with n Mimll n|irii 
 
 >ln\c fui thr illl.' |in>i|t|<-tiu|l of thr si\ul||V stiWs nfi.lVsni.j. Thr jnck.'ls 
 
 n.iitniii n Milliri.nt ^tniv of fiv^h l,ivn.|. Imrnn. linnrtj iiicats. nml ..tli.r 
 
 ^'"'l''»' ' ssMii.s i\,\- n ffw \\rrk>' .iiiiM'; whih' Inr iiitcivstiii;-' littinliiiv. 
 
 h:.\r Wf nut thr SniliiiM | >iivrtinii> i,,i|,.,| |,, mitlM.iily of the llolioiiiiihlc 
 
 '■•t'llii'li of thr Tliiiit.N llous... ami tl hnits of ih.' Tlinincs coiistlllrl.d 
 
 •'""" •'"• ^'i; l'>'<'^t Miiv.ys of II. 'I' Mnj. "Sty's I'.onhlof Adiiiiialty r Our 
 .l.rk is just hi- nioiiiih for iis to -.t nhnut u|.oii, with tli.- <liii;;iy tiiriird 
 
 '"'"'"" "I <'ii|.\iii,- Ih." iiii<lilli'. riiiirr thfs,. riiruMistaii.rs. on.' has to 
 
 liv.' niniost .•iitiivly oiit-<loois tor w.vks ami wr.'ks to-cthfr; ami if tin- 
 
 s|.in_\ is s.iiii.ti s lathfr moist, ami th,- foi.^ rather thick, ami the eailv 
 
 ' '"'".- '■'""' liitli'f <hiily. ami h.asiiiM' s.as rather a-'i-Tessive on the hastiiv- 
 
 swall.iw.MJ l.reakfast. yet the -oo.l ,|,,se ..f flesh air, til.- ileiicioii. s.iliy 
 fe.'liiiL-' of the l.reez.-, ami tile |MM|.etiial sense of ease ami li;;htliess which 
 seems inse|.nrni.le from a sea voya.LTe, are m..re than ciioumIi fully to atone 
 for ihes.' ami even ^^renter passiny inconveiiieii.-es. 
 
 'I'he riuht way to se.- the Tiilal Thames. tVoin the point .if view of its 
 <lelineati..n as ;i yrejit maritime hi,L,diway ami iiiteriijitionai coimiu'rcial track, 
 is cl.'jirly l.y th.- route we prop.,se t.i adopt : of sailin.u- against tin- course 
 of th<' stream, from its mouth upwar.l. In this \v;iy we meet the various 
 single threads of the ,-reat eoiiver^iu-' stream first in tlieir separate isolation 
 as they cine to us from the sea hoiiiewaids— catchilii;' the ditfereiit lilies 
 
m 
 
 77//; /■//'. I/. /7/.i.'//x 
 
 lliat mil Inuctlur tVoni tlir (Miiiiaii (><vaii. an. I llir Kl.'iiii-li liail.uiii>. ami 
 tlic Kii-li>li rliaiiiiil -;ilitl t'nilnw tin in ii|i a^ tli.v all <lia\\ cIomt aii>l cIon,!- 
 
 to one aiiotlirr, till tli.'V iiinu.' ill l."-l 'ti' "' >"' '''"' ii:m<'\\ in- I'linin'l 
 
 -liai>ril fiiiiix' alMi\c til.' N.'iv :iii.l tli.' S, a Uracil. jii>I 1m|..\v ( liaxc^.'ii.l 
 •riiiit i^ ill.' Lot I'iaii t'.ir l.ttiii- tli.' .liaiiia ><f tli. Tlianii'^ iinr..l.l itNclf 
 naturalK aii.l >|MintaiH'.iiisls l..'ti>r.' \><\\ ; f'-T lli"nuli tV.>ni llif '.^.'..uraiiliii'al 
 )i..iiit ot' \U'\s til.' ii\.r riin^ iVi-ni I.kii.I.ui in lli.' N.utli Knrilaiiil. tmui 
 til.' inarti.al ami iiaiiti.al |>.'iiit "I' vi.'W it riin> tV.nii tli.' Noitli l''..r.'laml 
 u]i t.i l..>ii.liiii . an. I {..111. 1. Ill it".!!' i> tlic tin.' t'.x'us ami liiial lia\.n t.iwar.U 
 wliicli all its t.'.iniiiii: lit'.' aii-l \i\i.l >lii|.|'inu' i> \'<>\- I'v.r lia>(il\ t.n.lini,' 
 
 \\'.' >.'t inl. tli.n. till .nil iijiwai.l .'.nir-.' iVi.ni jkani'^uat.' Ilailmiir .>ii a 
 tVoli lii('.'/\ Aiiuii'^t imirniiiL;. wli.ii iIk- iiiacK.i.l tl.it i^ .nlis .niiiu: lli'' 
 liii>v |i.«rt with it> .'mllfs> M'rif> ..t" a.tix.' Iii'_"_'.i> !';.ini ail |iart-. i>f tli.' 
 Wnirlisli Cliaiin.l. Tuiii>\ lla>tin'_'^ Imat^ ii.' li.ii'. 'jaiiv |iainti<l witli all 
 tlir \ari.iii> ('.iLnii'^ ct" tlic taiiilmw . laruir \t'-».U ^taii.l ..mt tli.i.' tV.iiii 
 Sliorcliaiii. >i.i.' l>v >',il.' with \i>\,^^ an.l Lirac'tul iiat't lliat liail tVniii I'.n/.aii.'.- 
 an. I Mounts |li\. lM'|it mat as a iicw jiin l.v llicir ('.iriii-.li ..wmi-.. an.l 
 (•."iitiastinir \\.'ll in tlii> ii-|i.(t with tiic Inilks vaui- iVoiii r.oiii.._'ii.- .iii|Hi^it.'. 
 or-'niiiii'tl to til.' full .III ih.'ir iioi^v .l.'.-I-.^ with ^.'^ti.'iilatiii.; I"i.iniiiii.ii. 
 'rr.iii.'ii.l.iiis tishiiiu' I'oats, imif.'.l. iiu'M- ia-t. with li.a\\ L;«';ir .1- it I" iiiat.li. 
 an.l >(.'aiii .a|istan to ii.a\.- it u|i in .In.' |ir.K'.— ■ Ma.'h. i.l. in t'a.i. ar.' 
 |n'iiia|i- tli.' iii.i>t .'In-iv.lx iiii'jratoiA ot' all "ur .■oiiiiii.iii Hiiti-h li-h.-. 
 aii|n'a!iiiL; ami ili>a|i|i.-ai inj aiiain in th.' iiiti-t t'aiila-ti.-al an.l a|>|Mr.nll\ 
 iii.'anin::l'»> iiiann.i- Th.- tnilii i~. the ina.-K.iil i- a |ii..lat..i\ animal, wlii.li 
 follows tin- li.rnnL: kin.l in it- annual niii^iati.iiis. an.l tak.> h.a\s t..ll of 
 its ^ollllL^ til.- I. lit : an.l -o the a|i|uarain-i' ..f th.' iiia.'h.i.l -In-al- .|i|Mn.l-. 
 larL:.'l\ ii|i.>ii th.- inov.imnt^ of tin-.' hiiiin'_' tlnnisi|\ .•>. a- w.il a> .if the 
 sinal-. i.i.'k-liii;:. an.l ..th.r li>-h.'> ii|t.in whi.h ai-.i th.' nia.kri.l |i|.\ Tin' 
 
 railway .■i.|pi|iani.- run . \].i.— - train- 'o L.'M.I.mi ilii.-.l ..n ih.' .la-.- of -j^ | 
 
 iiiai-k. Tti .ali'li.-. ami a- many a'- ."ilMl.tMiU li-li lia\c -oiiittiim's luiii n.tt.'.l in 
 a sin:.'!.- ni'jlil ii\ .iii.- tloct. 
 
 i!ani--a!.- haili.iur. w Iiom- -t.iii.- |.i.i> ami h.'a\\ t.pv.ir lik. li'jlii hoii-c 
 We have li.hinil 1;-. i.Tiiliiii^ .liniiv a- \\<- inak.- out -.awanl -tan. I- ..ii|.o>iic 
 a \;n\> or ■' ;,'at.' ' in lln; wliil-j rhalk tlitt^ ..f Than. I. whi.h 'ji\.> it- nam.' 
 
/ 
 
 7'///; yoirrn riH!i:L.\xn. 
 
 n 
 
 <" •'"• nhl taii,-r|,.,l lisluT villj.-c- l.y (Ik. port aiid the -Icaiuiiij,' inodt-ni 
 Lninloii \viiteiii.^-|,|;,c.. that lias mimwii up Inv^Milaily nnind that aiicici.t 
 <Tovv,|,.,| nnclcds. Knini was (I,,. cailK'st Uiitlsh iiaine of the Isk" of Thai.et, 
 anil Kiiiiiis (late, oi- Kaiiisj-atc, was the main opoiiiiig in the loii^r li„e „f 
 natmal l.anieis which j^nanle.l the Kentish eoasts fn.m the oiislauj,'hts of 
 th.' sea in this its most exjx.secl ami wiml-beateii corner. The twin stone 
 
 HAM.SliAlK IIMUmili. 
 
 piers -Smeatnn's masterpieee of harl.uiir arehitectiire —enclose a space in 
 whicli fniir hiiiKlivd sail can lie with safety, and in n)u,yli weather this 
 haven of ivfu-c is often crowded with fii.i;itives frmn the Downs or ships 
 
 lowed in after iiein,u' stranded on the fatal (J Iwins. The ohelisk on the 
 
 • play, which ol.trndes itself so unnecessarily in the midst of an otherwise 
 harmonious scene, fitly commemorates the departure of his late sacred 
 Majesty Kin,n' (Jeornc I \'. on a certain unimportant occasion, from this port 
 for Hanover, .\s we run out to s.'a, the tall cliffs on either side open 
 
 '''^" widely each moment astern, and tlu- well-known seamarks rise one 
 
 after another -radually hefoiv our ty^.s,— the familiar lighthouse on the 
 
 ' 1 
 
Tin: Tilt A I. THAMES. 
 
 uc^tcrn |>irrlii ,i<l. .I,'ii'i>l>'> Linlilcr illi;il <|ii:niil iiml i|iiaiiitl\ n.'inii'tl stuiii 
 ^t;iiic;iv cut in tlic |m i luiiiliciilar farr nl' tin' ilitl'i. llii' nd Imll nii (In 
 ^iiiiiMiit I't' the >lu|.iiii^ clialk (l>i\\ II IkvuiiiI ii, St. I.aw ifiicr'-. Cliiircli. tin 
 
 llii'cc wiiiiiiiul 
 
 111:111 
 
 iWiT. Ilic >\\r(iiiii' iiiilliiic 
 
 cic^criit. and. la^l nl all. tlic wliitr iiii 
 
 it' tilt' ii|i|iii-.ilr 
 
 if Wot ClilV l,o<l:_'c iliiiily li^in^ 
 ill tlif iiiiilillf (li->taiir.' -.iiiilliwaiil. TInii. a-- uc |i.i-> mit lutwrcii the h\kc 
 ami (,Mhrii (tluiv is iii.tliiiiL: iimrr stiaii-ilv r.d.il.iit ut' tlic -.ci ami s.at'ai iiiu 
 \\a\s than tlic^c nilil iiiitiK nmi iai naiiirs nl' niaiitinii' laiiis ami lii^liw a\ ^1, 
 'Ik' I"\\ ll.it niitliiif nt' r.-w.ll r.a\ (xiiamU itx It' -lnwU liiliinil 11- mi tlir 
 
 left, wllilr to the liullt llic wlliti 
 
 lines dt" clitl' siit'tcli oiiwanU luiliilv in 
 
 Inn- sii(r.-.-.i,.n pa-t r.rnail-tairs pier ami luacim (n the tall wliit.' li^lil 
 limiM' that stamU ii|i L:aiiiit a.^.'.in^t { 
 
 lit- ''IfN >l\\ n 
 
 II the N.iiih I'.irrl.ind 
 
 And -11. with the land ur"«in:; «\ii- dinnmi' and diiiiimr luliind 11-. tin 
 
 I'.jh 
 
 III runs ;:ail\ lirl'mc the wind. liirchiiiL: and tunililin- n\,r ihr luaw -will 
 
 v>hifli lulls in t'lMiii till' (.Miinan ( d 
 
 an, a> Uf |iiisli (hu liia\(l\ • acru^- tl 
 
 ||H'U -ca t'.ir thr ini-t\ |iiiiliriis .if the distant <i 1 
 
 will 
 
 A \crv daii'jiiiiii-. Ilat and fatal. 
 
 a\> Salaiimi i 
 
 n till- M'iih<iiit nf 
 
 I IIII' 
 
 whciv the ciica.-o ..f maii\ .a tall shij, li,. I,iiii,,|'. ;,,id imh-.d. 
 
 th.iiiMh nf cnui-.r the (J |win> .aniint I.e. stiirtl\ -iieakin-, muMdeied a.s 
 
 "".^ I'-"' "<' '''*• 'l'i'l''l Thame-. e\en in the W ide-t aeeejitatinii nf the phrase, 
 \et their pnsit;.,n at the \erv elltlaliee nf tl 
 
 le L'l'eat liver mad tn l.nnd 
 
 and their fatal .•(.nnertinn with the inniith nf the Thaiiie-. se.nis tn mark 
 them nut a> the natural ennimeneeinenl nf a Mmllint: pietniial upward 
 
 ellllse. Tn mi- the t'amnlls >linal i- In mis> liiueh nf what i> UU>-[ pirtUles.pi,. 
 
 and eharaeteriMie in the wlmje nuter Thaiiie- highway. S,, mi we -.. fm- 
 the illd'aiiied sandliank. 
 
 Tl"' I'nielalld i- .lIliMiM In.t tn M-ht llnW ill the faint htV/.r and W 
 arc >till >llU-.Jin- n\er the tUlllultUnl|> i,,|l,.,, nf the C.ri.l.in (•(•ean. 
 We nU-hl MireU tn .iuht the 1 ijit - V e..e| ..if the Nmtll Sallds ||,,,.| liV 
 ''''" ''""• ^ ■'''!"- '"""I- "1' -liluly lietniv |„, t., |„. .sniV. liUt it seems 
 
 '■' "■'"''■ '"" '''"'^ '"' '-'l-iir. and imi .p,it,. ih. ri-ht >lia|.e either. Im- the 
 ''-'" ^'''1' ■'■■■''^'' ••' '-"•"' '""1^ ••" i' i"■^^. ••iliead there, a. we rise ..n th.. |np 
 "'' ^'"- '"■"' '■""'■'■ '' """- -"" "• I- .'. ^landed liriuantine. and theiv i. 
 '^"""' "'•"■' "'.i'-''' "'"^'11.1: 'liml> nn tlie w,-a,s alm.-side. ^ mnhi is the 
 
Tin: xoiiTii ruiiKLAyn. 
 
 i.-i 
 
 li«lit-v,.,ss,.| ,„„„. to til.- rin-ht : (l.i.s is ,, c..||i,.r. an.l si.,- unist In- ,,-,o.i,mI 
 •m tlu. Knoll, vvhil.. tli-.s. ,„•.- |),,,l lu-vrs Hns,. „|n,.n.si,|,, st.ip,Hn^. all 
 "'•'" ''^ '••'■' "»■ ""•'• ""^ ••'• w,,t..r. As w.. .vt .K.;„vr w .•.•,., s.o' tlu- 
 l><'.il l.nali.i.-n .•liiMl.iii.n- alM.ut tin- imroitni.atf vssrl. nittiii- all tli,. 
 nninii.L; ri;;j,ni.- and .luhcxliny the sails fr..iu tlio poor w.vi-k ; a.i.l hdoiv 
 
 we arc wvll out of si-Jit of |„t a,i;aiii, sIk- jirs tlii-iv upon tlii' -ivat sand- 
 liank, nothing- nioic tiian a liaic skcU'ton. 
 
 OH" to till- soiitliwanl now. and away at onci- \\,y tin- wliiti- lim- of 
 foam that marks the iloodwins, Icavin.i;- tlif .j^rrat red swIn.L^^iiin- liMht-vossi'l 
 that hcav.'s and tosses on tlii' swell, sonndin,-,' its oniinons ,o(,„o. perpetually in 
 fon:iry , „• hazv w.'atlier to warn ships ..f their dauuvrotis nei-hl.ourhood to 
 the North San.l II. -a. I. Th.' san.ls lie hjol, j,,i.l ,lrv at low wat.-r, l.ut th.'.v 
 are v.-rv st.'.'p-t.i .>ii tlu-ir east.'rn side. We .-an th.-r.-fore an.-li..r just 
 oiilsi.le th." sn.iwv lint- ..f curv.'.l iMvak.Ms, lashed into .'ii.li.'ss turmoil l.v 
 th.' stn.n,- ti.l." whi.-h rushes between the patohos of tawny sand, an.l "o 
 
It 
 
 77//; 77 />.!/. y//.i.i//x 
 
 ;i-ln»iv ill llif tliiiu>'\ hii tlif ai'tu;!! I>;iiik. clini.-.in;: Inr \hr |inr|i(wi- ji mhi 
 
 nt \;iulH' II 
 
 ilcl wlicii' tlir Niirt' is li'ss Ihii^ii ruiiN, aiiil l;iiiiliiiL; «'ii>.irr. 
 
 I'lica-iiiv' i'III-i'Im's in imlia nililur ImmiIs ,>f <;i|iari.iiis >izf. \\r run Ih.IiMv 
 U|Miii till' \(ll(.u •"iiiiai. ami iiaiiliiiu ii)! "iir lit>at \<\ llir >liil\iiiL; cil^v \\f 
 takf a turn alniii; tlir riliKcil >anil> conchiI willi tlcad >li(li> ami nioiiMfriiiLT 
 tl>ii. Ipiiwrcii tile two aiiLrr\ Hill's nf liii'aki'i-s tliat rujl aiul inar 
 
 j.'IIV 
 
 unf('a>iii''lv I'll I'ltlnr nam 
 
 til 
 
 «l, Tlic liank ilsclf i> tinii ami xiliij iimlcr tnnl. 
 
 -avf in a Irw tliniiitrul liii||<i\v> ami linttdin'^ rc|nilt'il tn Ix' i|iiii-ks;ini|s ami 
 ■iliiiiiuL; iiki- inlaml iako or |inni|-> aimmu tlir ilrii r lidiics ; mi tlii'i 
 •<i>nirtliini: wriitl ami almost L;liastl\ in tlic Miisr nt' tliii^ w.ilkiii:^ nii (lie 
 
 I' 1- 
 
 (Irv >fa licittoin ; ami wlun tlir tiilf r<ill- uiailiially in npi'ii n^. .-iikI wr 
 
 sci'lll ti' lie stamlill'^ alnUr in tlir \il\ IlliiKt nf tlir lrlll|>rslniin> •.c'l. ;i srli>r 
 
 III" scilrlilll liinrlim">s >traU U|M>n nllr. ami \\r air imt >i>IIS tn fair llir 
 
 aiiLii'v >urt' niirr niurr, mi niir \\;i\ li;H-k t<> tlir -;[\\- ami ''<i>lii| drrk "t" tlir 
 littlr /''///f/'. 
 
 Tlir (iiiuilwins >tlrtcll till' >ii||ir liilir niilrs jialallrl witll tlir i'iia>t 
 fViilii tlir Nmtli til tlir Siiiitli |-"iirrlaml A iia\i:^alilr inrarli kiinuii a'^ tlir 
 
 Sua^li (a ciiiiininn iiaiiliral naiiir fur sihli liark allr\> nt' iiaxi'jatiniiF ii-.d 
 
 nlirr tn cllt tllrlll illtn t \M i lirallv ri|Ual |iall-. llir Nnllli l'ali|illl ami llir 
 
 Sniilli ('ali|iiir ; Imii tlii-. ili-ii-.i| n|i| rliaiiiirl i> imu |irartiralK sili,.| np 
 
 TllnllL:ll tliry air i'nni|ilr|i ly rn\r|(i| at lli'jil Uatrl. tlirV air \rl snlnrtllin- 
 
 imiir lliaii nirir ■>amlliank~. fnr tiir\ icst ii|inn a tiiiii lia>i> nf liliir rla\. 
 
 and a iiank t>\' >nlid rlialk li'^r'^ ImldK flnlll tlir >ra-liiittnni iirar tlir Nnltll 
 
 1' Iwm t'Vrii tn till- da\. Iiaditinii lia> it. i>\' ri.ur-< . that I 
 
 ir -ami 
 
 ncrll 
 
 |iy llir |ilacr nf all aiiririil i-laml wluir tlir Liirat Kail (induiii liad 
 
 I rniiiiucst. and a \ ai\ in 
 
 llix Krilti-ll ra-tlr ill till' da\s lirfnrr tlir Nminai 
 
 iru-rlld cnlillrrt'' tlnir n|i-in witll tlir >trr|.ir nf 'rmlrldrli ('ltl||r|i in the 
 
 Kniti-li Wrald liy a>-riliirj that ihr niatnial- fmiii wliirh tlir Inwri \\a> 
 
 '"lilt had lirrli rnjlrrt.d fnr t hr |ilir|in-,' nf -t I r li- 1 llr idll'.: till' -ra Wall nf 
 
 thr (I.M.duin-. ih.'ii a I |iniiriit |.ait nf thr Kii'jli-h mainland: and that 
 
 "\\ill- tn thr r\il art nf I hr Alilint nf St A 1 1 '^ UM i 11- 's, U hn di\r|trd t hr 
 ■"' ■ '''■'"" i'- "li'jillal nl,j..'|. III,. II, .\l .jM-al Mnllll -111. inn-, d ihr uhni,. 
 
 rxpn-,,'.! di-tii.'t a- far a- Saiidui,'h Similar Ir-.nd- nf a -ill 
 
 nirl'L;ini'r dl 
 
 tn huiliall ranlr-nr- nr -,v..,| air Inld n\- thr |.aii,l , ,f \ .^ .,„■ ill fninwall. 
 
/ 
 
 Tin: Mnrrii rniti:i..\xn. 
 
 v, 
 
 !iii.l of tlif l.(.\vl;iii.l ildinlivd ill Ciinlixiiii Hay. ft is liij^lijy prnl.iil.le, 
 iiKlcnl. thiit (he siiinls inv iciijly the iiist iviiiiiiilit of a (•lUiiil.liii;;^ jslaiKl, 
 I'lii^' HiiuH- swept awiiy l.y the <lfVuuiiii-j waves; l.ut liutli tlio stories which 
 iiccniiiit for its .jistriictioii aiv (vitaiiily dated "an a<,'e too hite." Thoii«,di a 
 Lowland Hundred may once have stood iipoii tiiis spot and Iteeii shnvly wasted 
 
 '■'^*"V piece al, just as Sheppey is now licin;^' wasted liefore onr very eves 
 
 l»y the land-sprinys and tlie tiih's, it is in tlie hij,diest de^nee unlikely that 
 any jiart of it lasted to at all so recent times as those of Karl Godwin 
 or of Teiiterdcn steeple. The Goodwills, indeed, may l.oast of a far more 
 rcspectal.h' and even romantic anti.piity than those W-w short historical 
 centuries. They lorm a last remnant, no doul)t, of that j^reat licit of land 
 which once connected the Kentish coast with the opposite shores of Flanders 
 or of I'icaidy. and whose memory is .still kept up for lis hy the twin 
 answciin-- clitl's of Dover and Kolkcstone on the one hand, and of Cape.s 
 lUanciiez and (irisn.'Z on the oth.'r. it was over that Im.ad connectin^r 
 i.stlimus— a widi^ natural l.rid-e ..f solid chalk, at the very spot whence the 
 much-del.aled Channel Tunnel is ik.w projected— that the wihl animals of 
 nritain made their way from the Continent into (.ur then peiiin.sular area, after 
 the clo.sc ,,f the last -Teat -lacial epoch, when all Kii-land lay as closely 
 covered with hu-e nia.sses of sheet ice as Cieenland lies at the present 
 day ; and it is to the former existence of such a land connection that our 
 islands (.we their pos.session of the red deer, the fox, the l.ad«;er, the hare, 
 the ral.l.it. the ott<'r, and all our other iiidin-enous mammals, not to mention 
 the wild l.oais, white cattle. I.rown l.ears, wolves, and heavers, which havo 
 only l.ccomc c.xtinct within the (piite historical iieriod. As a last relic 
 of that ancient and nienioiaMe liond of union hetween Uritain and 
 the Kuiopt'an mainland, wc may look upon the low wreck-strewn and 
 storm-i.e.itrn siindl.aidvs of the (;oodwins with a certain mclaiicholv and 
 rc;,'retfiil respect. 
 
 We mt under way now once more and run anain to the southward, 
 skirtinn- the eastern ed-c of the sands, which narrow more and more as 
 they vciuf toward the direclioii of the French coast. A iii-; timlier ves.sel 
 with painted jiorts and coppered l.ottom lies hi-h on the rid^yc as we pass 
 hy, only her forem;ist still staiidiiiii ; and here a.yaiii are the Deal men 
 
/ 
 
 16 
 
 77//; ■/•//> I/. 77/I1//X 
 
 vxilli lh.il lMui;vr>. I"i-il.\ uftliii- "<it tlw r.nu.i ..f iiinl..r (Hil.M.lr u^ 
 louin- iinutlur li-lit ntss,.] .,n llir Kiol (H.u.lwin. vxilli a tih\u^U' at llir ina.sl 
 |„.a.l ii.M.a.l nf 111.' ..r.liiiarx r.'.l I'all At ili.' x-mli \\.'>t.iii |...iiit ..f tli.' 
 Suutli Saii.U H.a.l >taii.U v.! a tliii.l li,i:lit-\.'».l. Liariiii; tli.' nam.' ..f tli.' 
 >li,.al ..II wlii.li -li.' i- iii....r.'l . an. I a>v\.aiv ii.aiiiiv i'- i «'' vntiii.' t.. 
 ,r..>- til.' -trip ..f wliiti' •vai.i- wliiriiiiL: an. I M'.tliin- aiiL;iii> \Nitli tli.' ti.i.'. 
 til. .null -..111.' ii'uix Muiii|.-> ..t' tiiiiL.T ■«li>'\N H'- a- w.' •^•> wli.i.' tli.' -i"'ii 
 l.un.'- of -..111.' I'iu -liip li''- ^""1" ^^'^ ••'"• '" '"'"' ^^•''" ' ""'■'■ '"""■• -'"""''"- 
 ill f..r til.' -.'.-uritv ..I' tli.' l>..\Mi-. Tlii- i> i.'i.iit.'l lli.' -i.at.'-t natural 
 liarl.i.iir "f r.'t'ii'^.' in tli.' wlml.' u..rl.l. tli.' t i.i.-.lw in- making' a -..it ..f l.r.ak- 
 wat.T tV.ini ill.' .a-l. rl\ i>v n..illi .a-t.'rlv ual.'- ami li.i.'. in -l.-iniv w.atli.i- 
 tV..iii til.' w.'-lwai.l. mas I..' -..n .'..ii'ui.'-at.'M i.(rlia|.- a lar-.T nunil..'r ..!' 
 sailiii'^ \.'— .1- ..f all -..It- tliaii in aii\ ..lli.r -imilar amli.-ra'^.' in an\ j.ait 
 
 lit' tilt' na\i"al.l.' -.as. I.ari:.' -Iii|.- i i ..iil-iil.' tin- I'-rak.' -.. a- t.. i.c 
 
 ;,1,|,. t.. inn n.iin.l ilii..ii'^li tli.' tiull Sti.ani int.. Mar;.'at.' i;..a.l- in I'a.-f 
 ..I' iicaw wiatli.r t'i..iii tli.' -..iitliuar.j \'.— .1- .>t' 1.— .r l.iir.l.n aii.li..i- 
 in^i.l.' til.' S..utli I'.rak.' in what i- .all.. I ih.' Small |t..\Mi-. ami ma-l.Tr* 
 ar.' warn.'.! t.> tak.' tln' i..aiiii'j "f tin- Haiti. r l.m.v l'.'t'..i.' .laik in -lionu 
 -iiiitlii'ilv iral.'-, -" that in .-a-.' nt' n.'.-.l they nia\ -lip ami iiiii ii|. ih.' 
 narn.w I'haiiii.'l iii-i.l.' tin- Hrak.' tn llani-i:a(>' A mmll.ank ha- l» .n I. It 
 tli.T.' i.n |.iir|>.>-.' t'.r tli. in t.. niii >.ii iiii.l.r lull -ail an. I a- in -mh .a-.-.- 
 thr iMiiir r.'t'iii;.'.' ha- L.'.'n.'iall\ h.-l I..1II1 hi- an.-h>.r-. llii- mu.ll.iink i- a 
 lath.T .•i.iiv.ni.nt -iil>-titut.' Inr aitili.'ial imnninL'- Tn .la\ lh>- hii\\ii> iiic 
 .|ui.'t a- n.'.-.l I'.'; th.' -hi|.- \\ailiii'_' Ini a -hilt ..f win. I Ih' -till, with tli.- 
 hill',' h.'al i:all.'\- -li|.|>inL: .il.Miit ,inii.iiLr ih.-m, lamliii:; |>il'.l- IVkih |i:i>-iii'_' 
 >t.ani.i'- ..r l.iiir^iir^ ..tV ha-!\ l.ll.i- I'.ir tin- -h.n.': an. I th.- li'^lil win. I 
 cani'- "III with it In -.•a all th.' -.iiml- an>l -iii.'ll- <<{' th.' Inii'^ lin.- Ic.wanl- 
 Waliii.r an. I l>.al. wli.'i.- th.' Liu lirj'jir- arc .liawii ii|> iii'jh >m ih.' 
 li.ai'h. I'.a.h In -iiiHiK aiH'hni- ami I'hain- In .li ill iii'.'^ -hi].- ni lak.' lIu' .'iiw> 
 ..H' -trail. I. '.I III -iiiik.ii w r.i'l.- in th.' ii"\t '.'ah- TIu'Ii. iml.'.il, th.- a-|..'.'l nt' 
 tin- ma. I- will I..' M'l'v .iilh-r.-nl A >.'.lhin'_' -.a ..|' t.-aiii will .it'i-ii|i\ th.- 
 wlmh' -|ia.'.'. ill"' vc—tU will Ih- aliim^' hhlihii in th.' iliiviii'j ;'a\ ami 
 ini-t. ami will -ln\\|s dra'^ ni lii.ak awa\ tVniii th.ir aiichni-. 'jniii'j tmil nt" 
 tdio aiintlu'i' an. I -inkiii'.' tn th.' I.ntlnin in wihl .'.iiil'ii-inii In th.-.' .aM-,- 
 
w 
 
/ 
 
 V 
 
 ' Xi 
 
/ 
 
/ 
 
 77//; Mint If ntKKf ' X/f 
 
 I? 
 
 til 
 
 •^r IIICII' -« •' 
 
 f III' ht'iil »«=''ii 
 
 iit> .(#m; «k«t stixii;;, llittiiy^li rxcrv 
 
 IllKK*'!' >» "<*iil *^" ^"IVk- n vtxor III iN imii up in Luiiiliui. wlm \)\\\n tin- 
 imifliiiMis i.r till (-.•iii'tM 1 w.tvU ,ii .,icc till iiki)iii«i|)t uiiy <li«iiii(f iiltinif llif 
 
 llliltliT uf •..•iImilH' (iri!<«»f* N Itlil llir (i\v ,i-f», 
 
 N'i'SHi'ls lililiyiliy li|i Mil til. Sill iH hnwiis tllkr till' |il'i'C|llltiuli tu ;:;|i'!isf 
 
 Will till' lliiki'H nl' tlii'ir jiiiiliors ; fur niliciwHf, if llii-v i>ufc sliiit, tlnv 
 vvill ii"l I'ilf iiujiiii, .'Hill Villi i|ii\r Ii(l|>li'xs|y In full' tlif niilc, llnivi'ii oiilv 
 knows wliiilii'i'. Till Itiiikf, II Imij.' iifiiiitw ^iiml r.iririilly intiiknl with 
 
 ilis|iliiti\i' lil|n\>. mils |i;il:illi'l in tllr slmli', likf lllr (iiuillwllis, tillll iMlWftll 
 llirlll lirs till' (illll StiiMlll, iilli' III' llir lllllill IIM \ ij;j|lili' li)!n|s In llul'tliWUI'il. 
 
 
 »iii<»> 
 
 ■U !,.« J^... 
 
 nil. I.I i.i, ^<iiiK\M 
 
 A linlit sliip, with tlir iisiuil ^jiriit ri'il luill nt tlir iiijisI-Iic.kI, liiirs \\v\v in 
 ci^lit riitliiiiiis, iiinl <i liliirk liliiiy Wiiflis vessels ntJ' the steep |ilitniiilitni'v 
 lit' ISlint lle.iil, ;i (liinneidiis lUnjeetiliL;' liilyc of the fjlteftll (I Iwilis. 
 
 North III' these eoliies ii little iilrhipeliino of siuitly |tatches, eiini|iosi'tl of 
 iniiiof isliiiiijs of shoiil se.ilteieil .-ilioiit ost'i' the f;iee of the se.i, with e;ieli its 
 (listinetive luioy to niiirk it ns il.iii^vioits. Tlif (lull h.is its hljirk miiiI 
 white eheijiiers. the Nmlli |!;ir li.is fell Mini while, :iiiil e;ieh of llii' othi-is 
 vnries the eoloiir or jirriintieiiieiit in some minor ilet;iil so ;is to form :i 
 eolilierteil series of distinct liljirks, 
 
 llr.uliiiu- the foresiil now to wiiiilwiird. ami hishiiiu' tlio helm down, wo 
 inoeeed ill once to thi' discussion of dinner, a meal which is |iri«dnc('il and 
 eoiisiimed on hoard the /'"//in willi truly primitive ami ileli;^litful simplicity, 
 .\ marine painter's yacht, indeed, may lie regarded as a sort of judicious 
 mi.xtiire of .Milton's I'aradise (unhappily without the part of K\i') and :i puie 
 ideal repulilican communism. .\|| men here are free and eijual. One of tlie 
 
1> 
 
 ////; rinM. /7/.II//.X 
 
 p,'ui\ |ii'«'pau>« iiiiil tiii»k« ilir -iivonrv n\vw ,i* tin tins «>tn\i' in flic <.iii:itt 
 lui'inint It*, mill llii'ii III' «i'i\i'« it mil. Kiiiiikiii;; li<>t. in iliin' i-ii|>ai'iiMiH ■.oiip 
 
 |t|,'||i"< |i) tilt' utllil l\\<>. Im|<| nil III \\<>lk till' Hllilt oil tilt' xn'i' Ut't lli'tk 
 tli'ltmM tilt' liillill;; \\fl\r* WliJit «li'lifit»U«» ilp|N't i'<iim «.|i VV il in I. Ml ' ttiliilt'ht 
 
 i>t' |MK-lii'!il |K'it'niiit ■• iiinl •l.'iiiilv ll;i\i>iii-> iiiiptooilili' In iiMMiciiilf witli '•inli 
 intii' i':irtlil> iiiattliiil'* a>« rulil It".' i>t iiiiilttiii. t-aiioto ami liiiiiipo t'loin 
 
 Wllil'll, IICMTtlll'll 0-, till' t \ jlll'llft' III' lllll oi'll-l •> I'lllllpt'U ll» III III III \|' it ||;|H 
 
 ii'all> U'fii i'iiiii|M>iini|i <l ( hi laiiil. iln tliin.; wniilil In alwnliitt l\ inrMiiriiv- 
 aMr. itiit at -la, tlir ipiriiif fi-ai- III atliiiipl in littiiij,' laiij;iia;:t' lln- «.iiipa—.lhL; 
 I'Xn'lli'iicf III" that inili'MTilial'if lia«.|i. If>.| lir ^liiinjil ]„■ arrii-tij at miri nf 
 
 cxav'^jcnttitiii ami hI' niivi'mis atiiniinn tn tin' u I tliin^» ut' t|ii> t.-uth 
 
 *'aii il I"' imiilv liir iirii'l 111' till' -t a ail alniif. niii' i-. tiinptril In wnmlt'r. 
 I'l' i' il llial iiiir anialiiii nink i- nallx a niaiMli.in> nia«li i mI' lii^ rlm^i n 
 
 flari .' A iitlli' III' l-iilli. Mil iImIiIiI. Iiif till' lii',t 111' ,'||| pii«>il.|r nMikn i-. 
 
 ffllainiv till' iiliii'ali'il ami lulliMitiil i k wlm lunk". mn unm,, Imt tin 
 
 iiivipiiatiiiu^ si'ji l.it't'/t'*, tiMi. ,';ii t |iii^sili|\ I'liniil I'm miiliin'j A .^,,,,,1 
 
 -lii'f III' hitail ami ival Imiiiii' iiiatji' pliiiii jani ilm - ihilv iii-liail nf pa^lr\ 
 
 III- ili'*-.irt ami willi that -.iinpii' fiiiisliiin; tmirl i |ii-l ilinm t .'iImmi.I i- 
 
 •""> ' pit'li'il. 'I'lii'ii \\i' inin III uilli a liit nf riinnli tn \\\\>, nnl ia< li 
 
 man lii- uvmi ^nnp pi.'tti •..mninni-.ni lallni ilian i'aiailiv, tliis ami in 
 
 ri'plaft' il I'aiil'nilv in it- pii.|M i |M.^itimi nn ilir lim ui w 1 ,',l,i,\,. ih,. jcK,,,. 
 
 fill- all iliin'u-. lull', in ai'i'Mi,|anii' with thr apnstli s inhiii'. mf ,|nni' ilinnlls 
 
 •""' 'I' "'il'l': ilniiiii. nil ;i .niall -llip. a> nn ;, l.i.j nlir -p.'li'i' i> ,n \,iluali|i' 
 
 ,iml tiilini'.-, -n mi',>,;irv oini'f vmi miiM .liwiix- km.w fMi.th wjnir tn 
 
 \a\ vmii liami 'M i\ lliin- tin' mia nmniint vmi if.,iiii, n, tli.il ;ill 
 
 ili-lii'>. mp,,. .pal',, aiiil pmpiitii- 'jiiiiraiix mii-t nmU lir put L.-iik in tlnii 
 faiiiiliai' i-iai'i'. ;,-« -nnn a. vsvv \\u\ air ailnailv ilnm' with I'm ihr tinm 
 
 '"■'"■- -^^ '"■ ^'" '"■ "I"" 'l-■'•|^. lilv Kill'- In.^.tlli, illnni.lil'. nf.- ,..|, 
 
 '•'•■■'"'"'- "'""^^'1 Kiii^'- .hhI -I > in il.'i'iiil fa. I, inn uid, ;, ......p nf mvx,, 
 
 l'''l"''- ••' ■-'■"■'■l'"l -'I 'I'l .1,1.1,1'. ii.'i.tiiv pa. I u. «iil, a pailv nf Ja.li,-. 
 
 ^^•'■'I'l"'' "I' i'l ''"-^ "11 ll-l- ^pnll.-.. ijirk., uhil,. ;, {■•niMJi ..,„,k v... 
 
 •"■"'^'".' ••' '■'•-"'■"- '^ ill •"I"'"" VNliit- -ap an! .t:,inl,'.. ;,p,nii |,,un::,.. 
 
 at iii^ .'a..', ivailin:; an ilhi.ti.iti -I Jnu.n.'.I m, an i'a>v rli.'ii, in t|,.. tn.'-.j.. 
 •^"'' 'l"'.^ '''■'! I 'II''" ^a.'htin., • ■|i„. mntnal rniUiinpl ..f nuLi'lv... ami ih.' 
 
/ 
 
 ■/•/// soirrii innri.wit. 
 
 I» 
 
 l''"'i"'l '•!*. ii-« «'• LTii/'" HiMdiil'iiIlN iVitiii mil' ri)iy;ii«i nf \iililiiy;t' at ulii- iiMutlifl', 
 
 Im Mihi|il\ immI iiIIi'iIv iinlcsi-iiliiiltli- 
 
 (Hf ii'^aiii. iiiiA iliiiiii>i-'H tliiUlii'il. mill n\vii\ fuw.iid Miii;,Mti'. past tlu' 
 tliii'.itt'iiiii',' rliiilkv lihiU'-i III' till' N'.iiili Knrflaiiil ! Wliar a .Huliil uumn u\' 
 Wi'iitlicr-lM-altii rock it lMok«., ili't\iiiir tlif wavi-s with il^ iiiit|i<isi nf clialk, 
 a ■^iiiliihl ".taiiiliii',' itii tin- cxtniiir sciyr nC Iti'itaiii tn warn tlic sea iij;aiii«t 
 aii\ I'iiiIIhi aii'^iA iiii'inarliiiHiils dii llif snil (.1 Kii;,'laii(l. Ami vi't Ihr sea 
 • •iii'Kiaflii's •.till, (ui all that, sl.iwlv iicatiiiy; dnwn il.f wlmlf clin'-wall of 
 til'- Nl'' of 'riiatirt, \sliosc liaidfst |»ioji'ctiii;; liaiiitT Imic juts out Imldlv 
 
 into tl |i.ii lii'r of the (it'i'iiiaii <>iTaii 'I'lic North Kori'laiiil HtamJH like 
 
 till' fioiit (lour, ill flit, o| tlir tiilal Tliaiiifs ; ami liv Art of I'arliaiiu-iil 
 iIm' I'oiI of l.iimli)ii I'Mfiiils li^flii down •>oiii London liiid^'c to a liiu- 
 iliawii foiii niilr> to scawaid of tins la Ifi ■ lost Knitisli |ii'ouionti)l'V. Olici' 
 lolllld its |t:iilil. lliclfjnlr. Mill feel .I'lt-i I ( ollt of |||t' lli;,dl seas aiid 
 
 Will into ilir inniiili iif ilir ii\c, .. ! . I "i. siiiniiiit (itiy rises a tall 
 
 oi'tayoiial liulitlioii->(' to '.^uidc vuii n c w with w lantern visiliie ii 
 
 distal of iiiiieti ell miles oif m i. ...union. Tlie liiiht is fi.\ed, not 
 
 I'evols iii<;', liiit it has a red rav. and it oreii|>ies the plaee of a>i iniiiiciiioiiiil 
 
 Wooden iieac .11, whieli loay st I on this • < 'antiiiiii I'loiiionloriuni. " and 
 
 was lull lit M.iwn li\ aiiideiil towjiids the end of the seveiiteeiitli eeiniir\-. 
 A Ion;;- iil'teiiiot.n. lnatiiiL;- shtwiy aj;;.!nst the wimi and tide, leads us 
 ,t;radiially on past Whiteness, roiciiess, and the |iroj»'ctiii^' fa!i;;s of the I.on;jf 
 Nose, till at leiiyth we eoiiie aliicist t.f the coiist eiiard station and see 
 .Maiyiite jetty itself standing up in fioni of us in full |»rofile aeainst the 
 round reil eveniiiLi- siiii. Turniii!; the eoiner of the jffty, \\v fetch round (he 
 |iier and make fa-t to the Liieat iron riiiL;- \A' a mooriii.y' luioy in the .si'cure 
 retreat of .M;irL;ate hailioiir. whose wjiteis .soon after eliii aw.av, leaving,' us 
 at pe.ice in the .-.(ift iiiiid of that ;incieiit liaveii. To the uniiistriieted eve 
 of till' mere liiidsnian. .Mai'nati' piolialily iippears nothing- more than a verv 
 diiliious m;iriiie siiliiirii of l,<iiidoii, a on nf inferior, second rate Uriyhton. 
 rendered eiidiiralile only liy its famous sands and the l>are, hieezv. o|(eii, 
 cli.-ilky eoimlry that stretches aw;iy so wildly toward the North l''orel;ind in 
 its rear, I'.iit to iho,e who love the se;i and the things that |tertaiii thereto, 
 even |iio>;dc tea ;Hid shrimpy .MjiiLi.ate has its poetical and romantic side. 
 
20 
 
 ■///; 77/' 1/. ■/•// t 1//.X 
 
 lie M'lA iminr mat 
 
 k> it Ml "iicf ■•I- ail i\ 
 
 lnitii'I\ aiK'ifiit K(iiti>li ti^liilis,' 
 
 Mllau"' 
 
 ami M>iinlliiiiu • 
 
 i|' till' l;ii>"I "I'i |iirtmc^i|Ur ti^hiiii; rl< 
 
 iiKnt >tu 
 
 fhllLf' Mli'lllli 
 
 1 till' iiiimI.tii -\o\m- ::irl j 
 
 >i>i 
 
 I A 
 
 //('/■ 1 
 
 II llif IcM-al Kt'iiti-.|i 
 
 ilialfct iiK'aii- a \<i>«<l. <<v -tn a.iil<t . ami il \Na^ itir \all.\ ><( -mli a iinTc 
 
 tliat IdiiiU'tl tlif uaji 
 
 n ''ate 111 
 
 llic clialk iiii\\ ii'> ('mill whiili till liivMi 
 
 iv.vivr- tlif name .«f Mrn'UMl<' m Maruatr Tli.' liltl.- liail-mir at it> iiiMiitli 
 I, ail a LTifat ivputr in tlif ti-liiiii: ami rna-.tiii- tra.ir (Imiiiu' lli'' MiMiilc 
 .Vu.-<. ami l.flaml. Il.'urv tlic Ki^litli-. iii.lrt'atii^alil.' aiiti.iuar\ iwlio killnl 
 liiiii-. It" Itv ridiiii: r.«\iml all Kii-laii.l aii<i lakiiiL' tii|iinii-, mitt-, ini tlir wayi. 
 
 .I.'il 
 
 ilcMTilic-. tlir aiiriiiit wiMnliii |iiiT"M>iv ilifavnl. ■ wliiili ill liis tiiih' lurn 
 !;ciiiii«-'> -tmit iiiiiilfrii luiililiiiLT <'t" ^•iiiiml ami la^tiiiL: \\"liitli\ >ti>m' Imliiil. 
 tlif >i'at'ariii'_^ tra(litiiiii> ut' MaiL^atf and hI' all llif Tliaiirt )Miits -n miirli 
 
 taitlii'i liat'k ill tiiin' tliai 
 
 I rviii till' carlifHi |«rii 
 
 il nt' thr Miilillr A-i-. f' 
 
 KliliNtli'ct. nil till' Miiitli -iilc "f till' i>laiiil, inar tlic dnaiN t\|iaii>i' nf tlif 
 Miii>trr Ki'Vil. wa-. tlir tir^t 'mint in llniiiani-i'd I'.iitain wlini' tlir Kiiudi'-li 
 
 s»'a-d(i<fs driivf a-lnnf tliiir piiatiial l>iiiL:'«lii|'^ ; and at ( >-<nL;al Mill. li«tsMi'ii 
 liiic and l!aiiis<^atf. tlif \fi\ i^iavf^ ut' tlm^f wild nld lifallifii fi«i>air> lia\f 
 liffii ii|ituriifd li\ ai-fidfiit in niii' nwii tiiiif. and tin- Iniiif^ and rflif> nt 
 
 tlif failir-t Kiiui 
 
 i-liiiif n 
 
 \\U 
 
 1 fVfl' ^1 
 
 t t'liiit nil til 
 
 • il Wf \\<<\\ tail att< 
 
 tlifii naiiif, l-.iiulaiid. Iia\f lufii di-iilavfil t<i tin' dili-litfd ami wnmlci in.j; 
 
 f\fs iif niiidfrn antii|iiaiif> 'I'lnTf tlif\ la\ in tlnii |>iiniiti\f v|iiilfliif s, 
 
 witli tlifir liiiiLr >v\iiiiU and -|ifailifa<l>. and ^limt .liiti^li knivf^ Imddlfd 
 
 lif^idf tlifin. tlif am'f>tiir>i nt' all tlif tnif^-li •^ratai iiiir t'nik wlm lia\f fSer 
 
 >iiiff niadf tlif Kfiiti^li fiia'-t taninii> in lii>«ti)r\ li\ thfir dni^'jid enurat^f, 
 
 fiidiiiaiiff. and daiiiii; l^'mni that ila\ tn tlii-. dnnlitlf». a |in|iulat inii nt' 
 
 >ailnr> lia> dwflt all alnii;.^ tlif tliifk>it serifs nf i,'atf> and -taii> and 
 
 |ia»f^. vsliifli lint tlif Tliaiiil -.Imro tmiii fiid tn riid ; and tlif df^fr ndaiits 
 
 nt tlin«i' alniint Sfadn;;s f 111 liciU lie |||i III! ,1 -tnllilN f\inill'_' xvitli tllfil 
 
 antii|Uf ti-liiiiLT \f>'^fl-> in tlir wfll ^iiinid artiliiial |inii nt nrndf i n .Marn.tie. 
 Ill If till' I'lifHii. tnii. u«ar\ with liiatiiiL; nii and dnwn .'dl dax aiiinii._f i hi 
 
 >'aiiilliaii 
 
 k> nt' t llf < Iniiil 
 
 U lll^. inllH' 
 
 ills tn |,>t t'nl till ni'^^ht . tnl tl|nli"h 
 
 liaVf iiiadf liiit litilf \\a\ tnila\. Wf lia\f dnm- a •j.hmI Mi nf •^kflil 
 
 nil'. 
 
 llld kl|nikill'_' alinllt > 
 
 iiiff Wf ^ft «-;iil tl 
 
 ii> niniiiih'^r ami a^ llif iii^lil* lutein 
 
 tn a|i]ifai' niic ii\ iiiif in tlif Mai'jat 
 
 f haihniir. and tin- n 
 
 d lantfin at ih 
 

 Tin: Miiirii i'tii!i:L.\Mt. -ji 
 
 |ii(i-lir;i(| is <|iily lit, with tlif ln\vfi- lii'Jicoii nii tin.' ji'tty lit'liiiid, tlirir weary 
 iiimt.ils citci) (luwii into the cosy culiiii, tiivfl aiMl huii;,'iv, with the easy 
 eoiisi ieiices of iiMii who feel tiiat tliey have fairly earned their supper l>y 
 ;i ,<,'()o(l (lay's work. A narrow Imnk with a ruj,^ spread on top of it is not, 
 indeed, a iuMiiioiis coiich on which to rest one's liinlis aftei' a day's laltotir, 
 lint it' you wrap the rii^' ti;,ditiy around you, and lay your little hand-l)a^' 
 under your head for a convenient pillow, you will sleep as soundly and 
 w.ike n|i as fresh as if you had none to i)ed in the iiest land fashion at 
 the most conifortai)le and well-appointed tourist-hotel in all Maij;ate. For 
 appetite anil sleepitite alike, there is nothing to e(|Uid a ^(»od sound dose i>f 
 the fresh sea liri'ezt's. 
 
 -',__,iS*=- 
 
 Tiir. \ri.i III UK Tin: ttixmks. 
 
M\rilN -VMi 
 
 1 1 
 
 IK'iM \l AKi. VI i: I" I 111 M M'l.lN l.!(,ll I". 
 
 hilt' pa-^I tivi- iii\t mill niiii; wf ■,\\i- iiji lutiiiic^ nii lii.ari 
 the I'liffin. aii'l liiii-tiii'_' •^ail ..(ir" iiiii:i- liit'iHi' luc-akt'a-t. w < 
 
 ^taii 1 iiMt |i. >ra w liili' t lir liilc -till 
 
 r\ I-. 11 ^. Ml a > ti ) i;t'l 
 
 .1 -i.imI ^wiiii ai 
 
 il a ili\c IIImIiT iIii' -.liil)'- Uccl. ill lieu lit' 
 
 thr |irii-aii- iiianitiiial tiili nt' i\rr\ila\ tirn"-! rial i\i^t<ii 
 
 lie cxi'iiliiit -iiiiiiiluai \ iili 
 
 ■t > nt' tlir MaiLialf aiilliiirit ii-^ ili 
 
 ar ii> timii tin 
 
 • 'ii|ii\ null 
 
 I nl' a W llnli-^iillli' lirailrl ill till- lialli 
 
 nil it-rlt'. ^11 We takr In tl 
 
 •II < -'iiaiv '111 
 
 t-iilf iii'«tiail aiiil 
 
 liav !■ a> iii|ii\ aiiln a >\\ iiii 
 
 lili 
 
 Mai-al. 
 
 -ainU a-> tin- li<.iit nf man imilil |iii>-ilil\ wi-li I'm in llm rliar uiiiii 
 liilal waltr Tlir ji-lh ti»li tliial ii!l\ pa-i ii- in iln/.iii'' a^ \\r |iii-li mir 
 
 was tliniUL;li tin- -Imil 
 
 \\a\i> lit' t 
 
 ir II i| 1 
 
 111' liijr. aini till' -la'iil 
 
 ■•rlialll 
 
 iiVrl lirail ill nliv liiil> i 
 
 Imiiit 
 
 a> In win 
 
 •llni lli.\ ^limiM 
 
 ii ijaiil iiiir liniiliiii 
 
 ]»<\\- in till- liL:lll nt' ll-fli-^^ t!nt>,i||i m- nt' u I alllHNalilr ^la'jllll t'nnii 
 
 Tliiii w r ^'Taiiiiili' nil jiiiMiii a'^aiii, riili niHNcUi^ i|i\ ainl 
 
 nil ili-rk. caili will 
 
 ill 
 
 warm niirr ninic 
 
 I lii-« ^ii|ilar\ 1 1 Linlal lull inwcl. iinliir iiiii>il\i-^ in 
 
 waiiii Will, II, 11 |cr-cy ami -ailni ■, iri,u-i|-~. aiMl |iii|iaii- a->i,liiiiu--l\ I'ni 
 m\t imimriani imiiI nf iji,- pi.-Mut ,|a\. mn t,i.akt'a-.i 
 
MM!i!.\Ti: Tn Tin: MA I' I. IX. 
 
 23 
 
 W.'lllt ;ill\ ti>li, 111,'iti' .'" slidilt 
 
 s ;i I'ollyli vnicc ;i('l'(i.ss tlir Wjitcr IVolii a 
 
 |>;issiii-- siii;ick : ;iimI wlicn wc u|;i(lly answer '• .\y : "—fresh (isli is alwavs a 
 welcnine ;ii lijil ii >ii In one's sciiiify Tare at sea— a Ixiat cDines aliin.yside iiromptlv 
 "ith a |ileiitifiil supply nf still \vii--liM;^- dalis and red-uilled wliitin;.''. We 
 l>liy wli.'it we need, at sUi|(|iel's jiliees too. and [trdceed tn clean tlieni our- 
 selves, anil cook tlieni over onr wee eaimi tire lor hreakfast. There are no 
 ti^li -o delicions as the lish yon clean and cook voni-self; no tea so tull- 
 
 inarnialade Lia 
 
 llipot 
 
 on 
 
 llavouri'd as the tea that yon diiidx ont of an old 
 the sli|.|ieiy deck ot' a ron^h-a nd-re,idy yacht : so liy the time we have ;;ot 
 fairly alncast of West^ate l!ay, we feel |ierfectly |>re|iared to do fnll jnslice to 
 oiii' own e\|ieriniental aniatenr ( kery. Not so very lony- since. WesfMate 
 
 consisted of little mote than a retired coast-Linard stat 
 
 ion, in a |>retly lirokeii cove 
 
 now. it has risen to the di-nitv of a ihrivin- fashioiiai.le wat 
 
 erin,i;-|)lace with 
 
 nnexainpled raj.idily, and has re-christeiied itself l.v the more loftv sound 
 
 nws. 
 
 title of West-at 
 
 e-oieSea. A f 
 
 iir wnid carries us on easily past the wel 
 
 known >ea mark of iiirchinuton Kound Tower, on the ilome-shaped downs 
 I'ehiiid. and pa.>t .Moid<toii jieacon, still further iidand. and np the navi^aiile 
 '"•■"' "•' ''"It' <'hanm'l. till at last we tind oiirsehcs hy the laiov on the 
 
 panse tor dinner opjiosite the mined empty towers of 
 
 look >«ai 
 
 n. w heic we 
 
 Kecid\er ( 'hnri-h 
 
 It IS ;i Ntran-v weird moiiiiinent. that old neglected and desecrai 'd 
 ehurch. whose t;dl twin steeples crest the low clay clitf int<i which the hoh' 
 '■"••>>' liii"' arouml Mar.uate and the Foreland has herealiout "lad 
 
 ualh 
 
 <nli>ideil : ,'ind il 
 
 marks 
 
 the last iclic of a once famous spot, tin- Iteyiilliinn 
 
 of the al'oriuinal Celt and the coiKpierin^- Komaii. with Kichliorounli. the ciiief 
 .unardian foil ress of the Kenti>h mainland in the first historic a.u'e of ancient 
 iJritain. K\en in early Kn^lish times the Isle of Tliaiiet was still in lealitv 
 \^1>'''' i' ,v«'t remains today in name at least, a \eritalile island : and the 
 small coa>lin;4 ships of that period. Iioiind from llie ('h.-iniii'l up rivi'r to 
 the I'oit of London, avoided the dangerous roundinu' of the North Koii'land 
 liy sailiiiL; up the wide naviualile otiiary of the Wantsum, which then cut 
 oil llii> insular region from the ojiposite chalk downs of the Kentish main. 
 W'e oui>el\es wiiiild ha\f lieeii Lilad enough to take refii.u'e in such a 
 deli;;htful short cut only vesterdav afternoon, when we were liattlim^ hard 
 
S4 
 
 Tin: Tin.M. riiAurs. 
 
 \vi(li i\,r ;iu-i\ (iilc aiiil wind .iinl funnit rniiml llir jiilliiiu |'r"mnii|..iv 
 nt' tlial ^.'It' >,iiiif IiMi oiplni^ivc l''«Mfl;iiiil ; Iml. al;i- ' tlir \\';mt^uiii lia> liMi'j 
 Lien ^iltrd u]" anil aitificially ri'claimiil in tlir a-i ii-nlt nial inliTot. m) tliaf 
 till- x'at'aiini: Wdild nm^t now ncnU u" vund tlic niilrr cmnir <it |iiiii( ri inu' 
 Tliani'I a> lir^t it nia\. Icaxinu tiic forunit.n clianinl lo iir tlii'kiv >>\ry- 
 Lriiiwn witli licli |ia>luraL.'i' .'iiul wavinu •■ninlicliU Tin' -nutlurn |>nrti'>n nf 
 tlif nclaiincil trad cdn^i-t'- I'f that nii>t\ Inw i\ iuir Min^t'T I-'M'I. tlii<inL:h 
 wiiii^i- (ianii> llat-> liif la/\ Stmii- nifamlcr- rn(ll.->-ly in im rnlililr luiiil- ami 
 i'IImiw- tnwaiiU till' Samlwirli lla\cn and I'fuw.ll \\:\\ Mlir xillau'' "f 
 St'iuinidUili. n«'\\ -nnic li\r iMii(-> inland, inaik^ l'\ it^ \ir\ name the |ii>inl 
 wiii'i'c tlic ri\rr nncr dtlHiuclud int'i tlic ti|i<ii r^tnarv . wliilr tlir noitlinii 
 lialt'. -.taiidiiiLr a liltir lii;;lur in rli\atiun, lia- nidy imw a ■>niall liacKwatcr 
 <>t tlif >ainf main ^titain (calli'd tli<' \ inladti tlnwini: tliiHML;li it l>> tlir -la 
 luiitatli till' antic|in' lii>nian la^trnni at Itiiuhci A little uatcr tlinx 
 >niniiinil> till' l^li' I'f 'IlianrI i'\rn at tlir |iir-Mnt ilay. to -a\f it tioni tin' 
 fliariri' of iu'inu' a roniiilt'ti' nii-iionn r : Imt in Koniaii and iarl\ Kn^ili-li 
 tiiiii's a lijoad tidal -M'onc ~r|iarati'i| it ihtinl\ tVoiu tlir iiriL;lilHinrinu >lion', 
 
 a> till' ."-oliiit now M'paia 
 
 ti'> iIh- \-\v nt' Wi'^ht fioni tin- Haiiip^l 
 
 l>^hiir t'oa>t. 
 
 and i'ornird tlir piaitiral'lr wainwav ii\ \\lii<li tli<' |Mtt\ ( 'ont iiniital trallic 
 of tlio>i' iincoiiinirri'ial tinn- tuiiud -lowly uji tlir \rt uii|M'o|ilrd Tliatiir-* 
 lluriii'.' till- lloiiiaii orciniation tlir rhaniirl rxtrndnl to alMnit a niilr in 
 
 W II 
 
 Itli ; lis' iJada > ti'Mc it had iiairowrd down to tliirr fiirloir^- , Inn it 
 
 was no 
 
 t till thr da\-. of Uriirv Sii. that tlir LTiadi 
 
 mil 
 
 al -lltlll'.' U|> of llir 
 t i'oni|ii'llri| tlir Kmti-ll nirli to Irliiarr tlir i'tlW at Sallr li\ a ir'jnlar 
 
 ■>lonr InidLTr and rlrsat 
 
 111 can-'rwav ano-.- ihr mtri'\rnm'_' mar- 
 
 'llianrt I'-ini: tliii> r\rr|itiiiiially r\|io»rd to piratiral attark-. a> tlir latrr 
 lii-tory of till' i-larid |iraitirally dmion-tiatrd. tlir Koman- Imilt a -tioii'_' 
 ra-tiiim at ritlnr iiioiitli of thr W'aiit-um -liori cut to drfmd thr nasi'^ahir 
 
 \S atrj w a\ . olir I 
 
 if whii'li. at l;liiitU|iia , lia> dr-rnriatrd 
 
 on niodri n l']n;;li'>li 
 
 li|i- into tiir iTi|.|.ri| form nf Itirhliuion'jh ; whilr tl tlirr. at Iti-^^nliiiiiiii. ha- 
 
 irtaiind thr likrnr— of it- aiiriiiit naiiir nnnv clo-iK in ih,. rorniiil Init 
 
 -till Iri'.ioiii^al.lr -Iia|ir of Ijrrllhrr. Thr niolind nil wlliill thr familial' twin 
 
 •|ilr- ir.-t (thr Si-lri-. a- -ailoi folk a 1 1| n'oiiria tri \ nanir || 
 
 irlil! lr|ilr-rnt' 
 
 in fart, thr nii;^'inal -niiair lloinaii ra.-lrniu ; and thr -tioii'^ wall that -iit 
 
 t 
 
/ 
 
 MMlflM'i: TO Tin: MM'I.IX. 
 
 25 
 
 it luiiiitl >(ill iTiii.'iiiis \isililc (III till' s(.iilli ;iiii| cast, ii shattrrnl muss of 
 
 sulid lluiiiaii mas v. oMTyiow n even iii»\v imt only with taiink-d Kiij-jisli 
 
 '•ivc|MTs, lull aUo with llir (ic^viicratc lii;' lives jd't lirhind in the |MCciiirls 
 I'V Italian h-imiaiics nr later inedia'val monks. The north wall lell into 
 the >ea, to'^^ethei- with the elitl' on wliieli it stoiid, alioiit (he end of the 
 last eentni\ ; lor, straii-v to say, at the sam.' time that the waves have 
 lieeii •.ih.in.L; iij. the month of the Waiitsmn witli their wash in one dirtrtioii, 
 
 I hi: f:I.( I 1.vi;i(s, 
 
 they have 'leeii ;^ainin.i;- rapidly on all the neiulilioiiiiiiu- coastline in another, 
 thf averaj. waste of the land hetweeii the North l''oreIaiid and the 
 towers of lieriilvi'i-, as Iai'II showed, lieinu' almut two t'eet in every 
 twflveiiionth. The relative |iositiuii of IJecnlver ehiireh and castrum 
 to the si'u is one of the In- known tests of this gradual encroachment. 
 In Leland's lime the waves still lieat u|ion the shore a i|Uarter of a mile 
 from the north wall of the desolate Uoiiian fortress; ity the year I7S0 
 they had swallowed U|i all the inlerveiiiii.i; distance, and |»roceeiled to 
 demolish the north wall itself, while they have only lieeii checUed from 
 lilottin^' out ntti'ily the vi'iy siti' of lU'ciilver iiy an artificial sea-wall and 
 emhankment. 
 
36 
 
 rm: riinr. r/ziyrs. 
 
 urlllMT rlili;( 
 
 ll. wIlci-M' lllill". r\iT\ s;iil(i|' l||) ;|||i| iloWli tllc liil;il 
 
 TliJiiiifx kiiiiw^ Ml Will, liM-^ ;i liist.)i\ lit' its iiwii, ,thiici>t j^ iiili'ii->l in.; in ils 
 |icciili;ir \\,i\ ;i-N llial nt' till' iii;i-««.i\ r lloiiiaii ci^tli' williin \\liii-,r |iirriii(i^ it-. 
 ■.iMllcnd walU -^lill ^tainl in nirl:iiii'liii|\ ruin'^ llrir I'',i1icIIm it d' Kiiit. 
 llir lir>t ( 'liri^lian Kinu "I all I'.nulaml. liail a palace linilt tmni tlif iiiiiainx 
 lit" tlir ili^M^il tnil , an<i with that im|i| lii-tciiical cuntinuilx -n iml ici al>lr 
 (•\('r\ w liiTc nil I'lnuli^li -nil tic litllr \illau'' inn licar-. -lill ili.' nainr .if 
 " Kinu' I'illirllii It " I'm- il> nimlr^t ^iun Malt' a rminis lal.r, >>\\i- i<\' lii-» 
 >iicTi'^>iii> "uaxr llarnit' tu Ha— ». tlir nia— > |n ir--t . tn tiinlin a inin>tri-,' ami 
 till' i-lmicli wliii-c wiatlnf wnrn nlir-> ca)! tin' low c'litl' ic tia\ i^ tlir lim al 
 i'f)iri'-.cntat i\c nt' tin' wcuKJcn luiiMinL: tlim crntcd li\ tlir .liiti-li nmnK nn 
 the (•iiniinandiiiLr >uniniit nt'tlir •AA Kunian -iti- Hut at all tinn-" KiiuImt 
 flniicli lia> liail a di-^tinci icmnirtinn with tlir Tliaiiir> watriwax. tm tiaiiiti<>n 
 sa\> tlir cirii;iiial tnwris wnc rrrctnl a-> a i:nit|r tn -ailms li\ a rritaiii 
 Alilir^^ lit' l>a\inutiin. wlm'-r >i->trr liad linii w inknl i.|l' tlir iiri-ltlM.inin.; 
 (■iia>t ; and wlim tlir'^r tii\\rr> till intn ili-.ir|.air. tin- inr^nt •Si-trr^" 
 wrir Imilt liy tlir Trinity llnaid. aMiwrdh tn Mivr a^- a liraii'ii t'nr tlir 
 ilitrirair naviuati.iii i>\' tlir (i|i|in,itr -ImaN 'j'lir -iratn jiart ..f tlir nld 
 fliuiili wa-. |iiillril il.iwn ill I>^n!t. al'trr tlir -.a had lu-iin tn Imak 
 diiwn lllr artllal rlirln^lirr 111' thr ra-tllllll mi whirli it -tand- lillt Ihr 
 t'lwris still -uidr thr iiiaiiiirr nil ■.tmiiiy nimninL.'-. up and dnwn thr {,,,];■ 
 and llm-r rlianniN. and auay tVi.iii thr dan-irnUx stirtrli... nt" thr ll.ii.k, 
 thr I,a>t. and tlir l!rriil\rr Lank-. 
 
 Thr tiat- nti' W'hit-talilr hraf thr i|iiaintly rvprr— i\r titir i.f thr I'an 
 
 Sand, whilr annthir di-tim-t -Imal in tin- -aiur nri-hl.niiil | i> lall-d \<\ 
 
 'll'' "'ill "imr rharartrii.tir iiaiiir i ,t' thr riiddiii.; I'an Iruk-. llnr thr 
 Whit-lalilr iiy>tr|- ti-hiT-. in tlirir laiidalilr piir-uit nt' thr in, -t imalilr natisr, 
 
 '''■'■''-•■ 'i|' iiiiinrn-r i|iiautilir> ,,f that Ini-ht ml K an |inti.i\. .•. nl\. 
 
 tliniiuh latlnr al.-uri||\. di-nilird a- Saniian waiv Tli--,- aiv thr •pudding' 
 
 pan- nf llll-nphi-liratrd -rat'aiilli: t'nik, Whn an nt fnl thril pii-r|li-r 
 
 thrrr liy -iippn.in- that a -hip ladm uith nd nnrk- fmni K.ain-r .ihrs 
 
 haVin't \rt Irarhril thr -tajr nf' aitilirial rllltlllr at uhiil, thr npp,,M|,. 
 rna.-l Wmild hr i|r-r|il„d with ulratrr hi-tnriral arri|lar\ a- (iallli fnlllidrlrd 
 
 nn thr dairjrinii- -hnal- nt' tlii- -liittiii- aiid linn itain -hmv p.ut it -mns 
 
MMiaATi: TO Tin: MM'I.IX. 
 
 97 
 
 
 liii'iv |iroli,iMr nil till' wliulc tllilt the I'mII S;iii(|s lc|»rc.sc||| thr site of nil 
 .•mrirlit Itniiiiiiin |;i'iti>|| |inttciv (like lllf iilic W liosc rclii;iilis jut 11)1111(1 so 
 
 aldiiMliiiitIv iiciii- (hfitdii. ill N(irili!iiii|iti>iisliiir). iiml tluil tlir ciicroiicliin^f 
 
 sr;i lijis Mr;ii|li;illy fiilrli JiWJIV tile luw flllf llfll clin's wllifli licrc tullll till' 
 suir (V;|Hi|,. li||l\\;iil< nt' tlir Kentish lllllilililliil. \Vc slijill nifct witli otiicr 
 iiMlicMtiniis, iis \vf t;n ii|i tlic rsliiiiiv. tli.'it tlic 1,'iihI (iiicc strftclicd t;ir iiimv 
 iiuilliuiinl iiiiu tlic cciiti;!! cliJiiiiifl. ;iiiil lli;it tlic present line of cojist 
 iliirci>. widely t'luiii tli.-it wliieh existed in the diiys of the Koiiiiiii (iccu|iiition. 
 I'or e\,iiii|i|e, ,1 liiiiik of shingle, ji mile utf till' shuie Jit Whitstiihle, still 
 liejiis the iijinie of Whitstiilde Street, iiiiiikiiiii' it jis the foniier situiition of 
 JI iloniiui \\\'j:\\ rnjid, while the ininieiise sjuiilluink tliiit lies off the imrtli eojist 
 of Slie|i|iey reljiiiis eveii now its iineieiit Celtic title of the Cjilit (or l.ow- 
 Ijindi, !i word identicjil with the Cjintiiini of cjirly ;L;t'o;niii|ilieis, iind the 
 iiiodeni Kii,!;lis|i county nnnie of Kent. 
 
 Whilst \\f lijive liceii loitcrini;- jishore with the dingey on the llook 
 '^■•md, the clouds Inive slowly i)iiiiked np over the Kentish niiiiiiliind in 
 thrcjitciiiiiL; fiishion. Jind liy the time diniici' is well over the wind liiis 
 freshened, jiiid iiiiii fjdis drop i.y drop finni the leiiden sky tluit now lowers 
 ominously ovcrlu'iid. So hefoie we weii;li iinehor for ii fresh stiirt evervthinu 
 is iiiiide siiiil; on liojird iii^jiinst misty wcjithcr. We tiike in tlii' mizzeii. rci'f 
 the lio\\>prit to liiilf its Iciiyth, jind reduce our nuiiiisnil tor the coming' 
 lireeze. The wind is risiiii;- still iis we stiiiid iiwiiy up (lore cluiiinel, iind 
 III'' mist jiiid ruin soon Mot out entirely tin- Iteciilver Sisters. Ily-jind-hv 
 "<• ti'id the wind is woikiiiL;- liipidly round to wcstwjird, ns we cnii now 
 no loimcr l;i\ oiir course, hiit lijuc to tuck repeiitedly in the narrows lietweeii 
 the Hook Iind l!eciil\er Sjiiid. The strong- tide rnnnin,i:- to windwjird works 
 up ;i confused mid troiililed sen. which, jis the i;iile rises, hrcjiks over our 
 deck in liliiidim; showfis, stiiiuin-- our fjices jiml dreiiehinu us to the skin 
 with sjilt wjiter. The little \essel. trenililiii.<; .-ind stijiiniii^- in everv tinilier. 
 .•^triiu-les nijinfully over the steep short wines, now jiinipini;- liiilf her k-ii^th 
 out of wilier in the tioii-h, nml imw nmiin l.uryiii;.;- her no.se det'p in the 
 
 liin,uliiii,i; spiny. \' ler Ioiil;- line of white wjiter north of us murks the 
 
 Woolpiick, jiiid eiisl of it lies the Lust, in shnpe riither like ji iiinirs foot. 
 Thence we work slowly to windwtird pjist the lon,u' line of lilnck Ituovs 
 
 i; • 
 
as 
 
 /•///■ Tin I A 77/ I !//>. 
 
 «lil(li ililllMlt'aIr III'' ll'ill 
 
 ll >ic|r nt' till' l|ii|..r ( 'll,l II In I A^ llir MIA l,l-.t. 
 
 •inwiiril witli M ^I.itl' .iimI r;iui', coiin* laiilv iiil" ■'i'^lil. a liia\\ •-ijiiall Ihii-Ih 
 
 I iKilhiiiL; tan It ■^icn t'aillnr lliaii a sanl >>\ 
 
 llpoll ll'>. ailil III a llinliirll 
 
 twii ,ill loiiinl llic vc'^il " I. it u" t'liiiNMil liaiilvaiiU ^taii<l l«\ l<i ilri'|i 
 
 tlif jirak. iiiar- 1 
 (la>li alnii^f rarrniiiL 
 
 ir Vdicr t 
 
 ■f thr -k 
 
 i|i|Mi. a^ Willi llir L:miwali' iiii<l< i \\c 
 
 |i|r-.^itl il.iwii liaiil li\ till' --llililrli riilcc III llic '^ali 
 
 I 
 
 I III' \\iir>t i~ ^iii'ii iist'i'. Iiiiwrvii. aiiij till' Willi! ^liilt-> In llir iinrlli Wfsi an 
 the ^ijiiall |ia-.>i'> a\\a\. iraviiiu l>ri'^lil xiiiiliulil aiiil Miir ^k\ ii\ i rlnail. 
 wliilr We -.laiiti nvci' tlif llal^ InwanU iIk' I'aii Saml Tlir ili>taiit nlijirls 
 imw ai. till iiut (li-tiiii't ami rlrar : tlir inl li'.'lil xr^^cN nf llir I'liino-^ 
 ('liaiiinl. tlic |iii'tiiri'^i|ii(' >ailiiiL: ~lii|i» ami Inaxv Nlcaimi^ Imiiiiil ii|i m- 
 (|ii\Mi it, the liiu'li lainl I't Sln|i|i(\ jii^t arm^^ tlir ■^tnaiii. ami cmh tlii' 
 liiitlici' clitl- lit' Maiuati' tar awav In Inwanl. >liiiiiii',: wliitc at'tn tli>' jia^-iiiL,' 
 >liiiW(i' W I- liaxc ^lill |il(iit\ lit' wimi, ami tlir lii|i|iiii- tawiiv wasr^ lucaU 
 >liiiit yt\AV tlir 1)1. u^. I'liNrriiiLT n^ willi -"I'lav a^ liailU as r\rr Tlial tall 
 lilai-k liiir auaiiisl the •^kv mi mir wr;itlirr Imw i^ tlir I'an S.-hhI l'.rari>ii 
 |-liiiiii;^li \\atri' >taml> nvrr tlir ■.JidjiU iiii\\ t<i III lis run up cju^r tn it, 
 
 Sfafili;: tW'i LTI'rrli r\ nl rnl'lmiiailts wlin |lrrrlir(| -ii'lirrh a llliilllrlll lirt'iilr 
 II|M>|| it> tiil>lm>st -llllllllit A tlliik s|i,n', witll a li'.;litr| Mllr -trlilirii on tlir 
 
 tup— that is tlir lirarmi ; uhilr all tlir wa\ up iiiiis ,i -nil nf miii^Ii kiililn 
 
 riilllpiisnl lit' liliii'ks lit' WihkI. iriiirij I'lliirlv nlir ,|liii\r tlir ntlin At tlir 
 
 lirad s|;i||(|n ,i L;|r;it |iilli.'ll Wiiiiilrll ca'^'r. pailltnl Mink a^ ,| 1 1 ist inrl i \ r tnkrli 
 
 \Vr tai'k iKiw. aiiiJ passii|._r rlusr til tlir \\'i-st r:iii S.iinl witll its ml nnii 
 liiiny siinmniiitnl li\ jhr irLiulaliiiii st.itV ;iml liall. wi staiul in at last 
 
 t'lil' tlir iiprli llimitll lit' till- Kast Swalr. as tin- rlrrk is railril that i|i\ii|rs 
 Shrppr\ t'l'iilil till' Krlilisji lliailllaml An linin m- tWn imilr nt' still.;-!!' 
 
 wi'h wimI am! ua\rs luinus Us inin r.ilin wairr iimlri ilir lie ,.|' 
 
 Shrlllirss. Mini all mil' ri:^i;i|IL; lillll'_' with WrI llntllrs, Wr run '^jaiK up tlir 
 
 Swalr itsrlt' |iast Harty l''rii\ Thrn. inakini: mir was up t hr ni'rk that 
 Iraijs til !''a\ri'sliaiii. wr put mil' misr intn a rmiit'm talilr inmlliaiik. ami 
 filiisliiiii: up with hiirh tra. timi in t'nr a irall\ r.,iiit'm taMr ni-ht 
 
 I p lirtiiiirs 11, xt iiiiiiiiin- witll thr lii'si siirak lit' ilawn, wr limp (juwn 
 thr rlrrk ill a whitr iiiisi. tlir stais s|iinii|o t',',|il\ thimi-h ii\rihrai|, ami 
 thr siirrmimliiiy >hmv lost i.. \isii,n. Manily a liirath nf wimi siiis at 
 
/ 
 
 "f 
 
 $ 
 
 
*( » / 
 
/ 
 
 .M\i;<:.\ri: m rut: t/i/'/./.v. 
 
 ■t 
 
 • €• 
 
 \\m\ , I'lll ,!■. ill)' il.'iv lilillk-i II littlr lilri/i iiiliicv riiijii till' (III liijicslifx ; mm 
 
 Mi'Miii;,' a yii'iit I'lilini s|iiiiiik»'i'. \M' lilt' MUKii >iliiiil\ iiiimiiiy iIhvmi ilic l'',.i>f 
 
 Swillf, willi till litllr I'lljfin hidkilll.' liki' II |illilllhi||i in llir •<ii|r|iill ■«li|ul|i| 
 
 i>r |ijillii| I'iil: Till' wiinl ki'i'|is ,||| iiliil'i. jiinl imt ,\ ii|i|ili' iMr.ik^ llir wiilci' 
 
 llirMiii.'|i whii'li \\i' jiic >li|i|iiiiy^ jit «iicli ,1 il nl |i;irc A« sw |ifi>-» NN'liiNtitldc 
 
 Willi ii-< lli't I lit' ((\ -icr xiii.'ick-', llir -nil rial's, jinil mioh ilir miit Ii,'i> mrltt'il 
 
 illl'i tllill :iir \Vli;i) II Wiiliili'lt'lll rnliliji^l InihiV In ScstililflV ' Till' sen 
 
 stiihiU ,1^ I'.'iliii (I-. II iiiill|iiiiii|. Uii'^lil liliic sk\ liiili'T* ovrrlifinl. iiimI in tlif 
 
 iMllccI -.ilclic.' We ran nilcll llir MiMM' tl'nni lllc IHulilll'i III' «*|flinir|s I'nr 
 
 iivMi\ in llii' ha/i' nt' llir I'liiin-'-* (linniirl m llii' \vliiHt|i"< uf riiilwnv riiyiiifH 
 \i'l fnillnr nil mi llir rilifiilin'^r iniiiiiliiiiil wrll ii-lriii nf Ms. Tlu' liciivv 
 Miiils liiiiiLr iliiwn iiH li^lli'ss II-. in 11 ili'iiil riiltn. ImM i>ni' iiu:lit siiiniiki'i', 
 swt'lliii;,' iMif i^riici't'iillv with llir ui'iitir liii'f/i'. ^lill riiiii"s iis iinifllv uiit 
 III sen. Till' IiuhI Iiiis slink imw li> a |i;ilr uiry liiir, ami \\v liavc fairly |iiissc(| 
 llir Tan Sand liranm . Iml a liiiiss Itaiiil nn slinir can yi't lir lii'iinl ijiiilr 
 ilistiiiftly ari'iiss ilir watrr, liii; ilniin ami all 'llii-> is inilt'ril a uloriiniH 
 (lay. Till' ili'W nil ili'i'k lias mil yi't iliiril, ami Wf liavf s|miii alrcaily as 
 far as ilir nmulli nf llir (.tiiciii's ('lianin'l. Still \vc liavc nin\ril Init littli- 
 lliis |a>t lialt'-liniii-. ami imw llir wimi is tlcsfilinu: n?* iiltiij,'ftli('r. ami \\r lii- 
 witliiMil ninlimi nil ilic glassy siilfaci' ul' llii- Nniili Sen. Nut a snuiiij stirs 
 sa\r w Inn a |inr|Mii>f nr \\\n cnnii's fur a inninrnt tn li|(i\\ at tlif siirl'an'. 
 A littlr tlrrt III' sailing vissrls iirai' IIS slamU iinninvcil, as iillr as 11 |i!iiiitril 
 s|ii|i ii|inii a |iaintril ncran. Wr iiic all alikr iliit'tinu' u;rntly nn tin clilt 
 tiilr |ia>l till' 'i'liii'^'nc liylit-vrssrl. Tlir llilnMiinLr straiiiris tliat pass lis liy 
 ilisilaint'iillx Iravr lirliimi tlinii t'antastif linrs nt' tiailin^: sinnkr tliat drit't 
 iillv intii iniMinirialilr wrinl ami ciiiinns sliii|ii'^ in the still ami |)lai'iil iiir 
 innuml Us. Nnnii I'niiirs aiiil ,L;iirs, ami tlif lidr is drit'tiiiu' Ur. Iirlplrssly 
 liack iiitn llir nprn rivrr. Still, imt a lircatli nt' wind liscs. and tlir Inn^' 
 rrtli'i'tiniis nt' all tlir liccalinrd ships srriii tlir nnly tliin;;s that innvr at all 
 anvwhrir nrai' lis, Nn\v and thru, Imwrvrr, a straiiirr ^nrs piiundi'r^' jiiist 
 and murks mir niisrry. Away tn thr mn'tli nl' us f'nr niiirtrrii riidlrss niiirs 
 stirtrhrs tlir Liuil;- Saiid. Tu till' iinrtli-rast lirs thr Kriitisli Kimck, twrlvr 
 inilrs aua\, and lirymid that auain stamis thr hiiyr liaskiiii;' iiiuss nl' tlu' 
 (lallnprr, Tn tlir smith, .Maryalr samU Mnrk thr way. l>ut t'listwaid all is 
 
30 
 
 77//; TIUM. TIIAMr.S. 
 
 i|nii v;i until soil njicli llif Wr-i lliiiiltr. I'mtv milr> -ill'. ii|miii tlic I'lnni^li 
 
 luniks. N>' wiiiii .111(1 iu> ini>ti<>ii Si;i\ 
 
 , hat i^ tliat .' A laruv -"cl 
 
 liinliir 
 
 nil tlir lit'iiziiii tliat lias iK't iMiivcil tlif'^c tlircc licnii- lia> imw lictliil 
 LH'iitlx, ami !■• ciiiiiiiiu up tn ii^ t'a>t lictmi' an fxitli-nt IiU'c/c Somii a ilaik 
 lihu" liiii' >li(i\\> all aldiiu tlir Ma tliat tlif wiml i-< ia|iiill\ ailvaiiciiiu at la^t. 
 We nin t'lTwanl ami iii(|iar(' in a iiic"u.nt r>>r tlu' r\|irft<il liH;-"' The 
 
 • laik 
 
 liiif iiiii\(-< nraiiT aiHJ iirairr, aiHl tlir wlinlc sm 
 
 t'acf iif' I 111' Lilacs 
 
 is swept i\ civ w lure with tin' wilcciinc dash nt' little cat-^paw-. The saiK till, 
 
 aiiu away we run n|i the main 
 
 hi-h 
 
 wav cif till' rriiire's ('haniiel. I'.v aml- 
 
 i\ we -t 
 
 t ahiea^t lit' the TmiLriie li'^lit xe^^l she >liiiw> at niuhl l>^' 
 
 UliIiI-. the upper white ami the InWer lei| Then we lllll li\ the lilaek 
 
 aiiil white \ertical -<tri|ie> nt" a can ii\iii\, at'tei wliieh a iiiin with a 
 (•ai,'e painted in the >ame wa\ uiiide'^ mir emir^e aim-^ the Irarkle^^ waters. 
 Away nil the starKiiaid hand lie the ShiinileN, niaiked li\ red niiiis and a 
 tall lieaenii >uiiiiiiiiiited li\ a tiiaiiul'' Ne\t emiie^ the rriiue'^ li^ilit M-^el 
 with red revdlviii:: li-ht >liiiwinL; tVe^h e\er\ twenty seeuniU Here tin' 
 Alexandra ('haiiiiel. a iiewh Inmved tiaekwas. a^ it- \er\ iiKnlern name 
 iiiipiiit>. Iiraiiihi"« iitr imi tli nt' the \\'e-t (iirdler .\ lilaek can and twn I'caccin-,. 
 fdlliiwed in due eciur-e li\ amnher hjack can, lead ii- at la-t aluea-l nt' the 
 
 (iirdler li-ht \e»el. with white liuJit n \n|\in- e\el\ thilt\ -ccnlld- Hence tile 
 
 rnad IicimU tn | he ri^lit tn clear the Shi\eriic_' Sand. Liuarded t'nr \e'>-e|s 
 
 with a lull liun\. .\^ ihi^ j- ,i \ers impnitaiit t iiinini.f-pniiii in the npeii 
 
 stream, tlie .Majilin li-hthnii-e thmw- a white rax acrn-«-. the traikle..- path 
 
 t" warn -hips when tn aJN r their cnui-.e in either diieetinii \N'e mxt make 
 
 I'nr the l.a-t ' '.(/e. W hn-e liiink alld white li||n\ i- tilled with enliipK s^ed 
 
 j:a>. which liurii- -.t.a.lil\ t'nr a t'nrtni'.dit m -n at a -ittin- I'iiialK we nacji 
 the .Mnii-e li;.dit -\ e— el with 'jieen levnhinL; laiiterii alld pnitiii.: mil helm 
 We nil! awa\ irailv dnwn the Swin t'ni the di-tant 
 
 HI Iniil 
 
 liudit. The terre-iiial intelli-eiice iiii-ht ea-il\ -iippn-e I'iniii a ca-iial -lame 
 
 at the chart that the-e l,Un\,^ .(Ud liuht- -land \er\ clu-e indeed tn-elher. 
 I I"' iplite impn^xilile tn |n->e \ciUI Wa\ 1" tWeeli t lielll : ami 
 
 sn tliat It Wiiul 
 
 lin dnlllit nil a elear i|a\ like tlii-. with a f; 
 
 III w iml carrv iic^ niie aliead. it 
 
 i- lin Vel\ ditliculi ta-k ti 
 
 the liiiW clnlldje-.- T 
 
 laiiii 
 
 -an li\ ihiii aid intn the \awiiliej liiniilh n|' 
 I'lUl when Mill actualh enuie tn t|\ il. the 
 
M Alia ATI'. TO TUK MAPf.lX. 
 
 31 
 
 lilln\s i|() eel tjiilllv si'clll ,'l |()| 
 
 l^' \\!t 
 
 till' otllrr. N'dii 
 
 y !i|»;ii(. iiikI |iii/zliii,uly iiiiiiiiyfd (Hic with 
 use siiiht ot' iIk' fust liiioy lictnic vini ciitcli ;i yliiiipst' <if 
 ••>'• '""<<• !<>"l ill thiclv vMMllitT or (in ;i (l;irl< iiiylit, \vli;it with the whito 
 li,u:lits iA' iiiK liiiivil ships iiiid the ivd or irrccii side liylits of vi'sst-ls iiiidir wiiv 
 iiiuviii- .'ill ,'ii'oiiiid yuii ill every direction, iind |ierliii|>s with tide settin.Lr 
 li'^^ht .icrnss yuiii' lieMin, it is snudl wonder if yon yet ;i little ont of vonr 
 i-ei'konin- now iind then. :ind fjdl to pen-eive the s;inie lieautifui re,i;ulanty 
 ill the l.ijoys Mild lie.'icons of rejd life wliicli so cliarined 
 ill llir Admir.ilty chart and the "SailiiiL;- Directions." 
 
 your "prentice mind 
 
 The Mapliii li^iht, whither we are now liound, stands on the norti 
 
 1 or 
 
 l'-sse\ liaiik of the tireal estuary, here practically almost an open sea : 
 and our course thither lies ri,i,dit aloiiy tiie main stream of comniei'ce 
 which pours unceasingly up and down the liroad highway of the Swin. 
 
 I seas on the 
 
 lietweeii the I'ort of London on the one liand, and the lii,<,d 
 othir. In this Cheapside of the shippiii,-' interest, every kind and species 
 of marine cjurier may l.e seen and studi*'.! in plentiful almmlance. 
 Here on one hand L;oes ;i ^rcat lumlu'iini;' heavy coal-steamer, distin^Miishcd 
 liy her owners apt device of a Itlack diamond painted conspicuoiislv on 
 
 the liin' whit<' funnel : thei 
 
 V. a wee l>it furtliei', throuyii the faint L:ri'v haze 
 
 a linlil Norwegian timi 
 
 K'l' M'sse 
 
 at anchor a li 
 
 ttl 
 
 f on one sule, waitiiu 
 
 for a fa\ouralile wind for Norwav : and voiidcr. st 
 
 caniiiiL;- up with all iiaste, 
 
 tk'e^s llyiiiti and pasM'imers leaniii- uladly over her luilwarks. a llotterdain 
 pai'ket hurries upward with the tlowin^' tide, to land her expectant tliron<;' 
 
 har.iics set their 
 
 at London Uriduv liefore the fall of eveiiiiiL;-. Lumlierin 
 rusM't >Mils on one hand, white-sailed yachts lly past swiftiv on the other, 
 "hile ill iietweeii. shrimpers and smacks and tu,L;s and liillv-liovs sail 
 aloii-' at all angles to mu' another, crossing;- and recrossiiiL;- each other's patii 
 in pi(tuie^i|Ue confusion. How on earth they evi'r avoid collidiiu;- with one 
 
 aiiollier at e\er\ ta 
 
 cK Is a st.'iiMliiiL;' niarve 
 
 to til 
 
 e uiinautical sjiectator. for 
 
 each \('sse 
 
 M'eiiis to M-u (III her own way entirely irrespective of all the 
 
 "fliers, and to run lull tilt at I'.vtraoidiiiarv aii-les with all the oti 
 
 ler era 
 
 ft 
 
 III the ullole ri\el'. 
 
 .\nd 
 
 yet ill reality that mvsterious suliject. the ink 
 
 "f 'he ii'ad at sea. is far simpler (when oiice you know it) than most 
 landsmen originally suspeet. 
 
Tin: riDM. r//\yrs. 
 
 / 
 
 I llr llllur \i||u 
 \Vi-.| Swill the lll.lill 
 
 W ((illlllirllt InWalil^ Wlllill Wf .llf 1)1 
 
 lU xliriiiiu; alliwail tin 
 
 ■liaimrl tor iIk' N"llli S.a lra<lr i> llir Ma| 
 
 ■ nil 
 
 Saial. till- laiuol ami widi-l '>\' all llir liii-v -.||,.aU llial liii'' tlir lown 
 
 It lir^ I'm- iiiaiiv mill'- alnii- ilif iicirllinii 
 
 ml (if llir Tliaiiif^ i«.tiiar\. 
 
 nr 
 
 |'',>^.\ -Ikui' nt' till' ii\.r. ln'uiiiiiiiiL: .It KiIliIi I'-ax . iirar SuiiiImihI. iia^^iiiv 
 
 miiliT SnlUllilHJ |i!i 1 
 
 a \a 
 
 >t ami ilriar\ iiniilllal. allrriiiu L;railiiall\ iiiln 
 
 a liiiii ami ta\\ii\ -ami a> it iniimU tlic diiii ]<>\\ >\<\\ <<( Slnnlmrx lie 
 
 aiK 
 
 I ilu'iitT >l\irtiiii: tlif wIh'Ic I-',— r\ cua-t in rmlit 
 
 sii('cc->inn a> 
 
 far a^- 
 
 tlir iiKHitli lit" tin- Crniirli ii\ir Tlir Maprm iliir- at \<>\\ water alnn^ 
 
 aliii>i-«t It-- tiitiii' lfiiL:tli. .tml it-« i>ii 
 
 I. T i(|''r i> ■.Iciii. liUr a clitV <it' -ami. 
 
 tliat 
 
 a \i' 
 
 can i'a>il\ lie n 
 
 tV aiiil lami 
 
 a lia".->rnL:( T nli it- XrlidW lr\c 
 
 In tlu' tliiflvc-t |Mirtiiiii till' -ami- are m>arl\ livf iiiili- wide. Init tliey are 
 enxeieil with water auain at alicnit an li"nr ami halt' at'ter tiie turn I't' 
 
 tiK 
 
 tide. NiithiiiLr can well he drearier m iimre niMiintdmiii- in ii- wa\ 
 
 than a Icuiu walk aiai'— tin- teiii|MiiaiA i 
 
 le-ell nil the |-'.ll'jli-h ena-t .\- 
 
 \iiU |iaee ii]i and ilnwii it- \v ide e\|iaii-e \iiu iiii-ht aiim»-.t iiiia'.^iiie \iiiii-elt' 
 in Sahara, luit t'i>r the want i>\' caiml- in"li<«il\ e\er dreamt nf |iaiiitini: ;i 
 de-ert without the eaiiiel-i ainl t'lir the -tarti-h ami iiieiln-a- that lie iliieklv 
 
 -tl'ewn n\er 1 
 
 t- whc.le lia-kiiiL: -nit'aee 'I'd t 
 
 le imrt h. ea-t , and We-t iml hiii 
 
 i|.|. 
 
 ar- in an\ diieetinn hut eiidli— -and. -aii<l -and here liiilnd, there 
 
 irieiiiilarh iiuckeiid. vniider heaved iip iiitn an umliilatiiej rid.:e. m depre— ed 
 (iiiee imiie into a l>a-iii like hipjlnw ; while -niithward. a niuddv -ea hieak- in 
 whiti- t'naiii MVer the l.iw hank that t'niin- it- well d. niareated ed'^e, and a 
 
 tew tall llia-t- -lliiW ill the eelltli 
 
 th.- We-t 
 
 M\ III ( 'haiiiiel. a- tile -njitars 
 
 -viiiliiil- lit' huniaii lit'e and "leeiijiatinn. 
 
 Neai- till' ea-t end lit' thi- i\ten-i\e llat the Ma|ilin li-ht hmi-e, mie nf 
 
 the nm-t liietlire-i|lle iiiij.cl- nil the wh.i|r eiilll-e i it' the liiWel 'riiallie-. li-e- 
 
 iiji in -iililarv Liiaiideui umi- the tawnv \va-te finni the inid-t nf an air^rv. 
 titful. and teni|ie-t iinii- -ea .\ -ivt nd ma—, lai-ed ainft fmni the -iirfaee 
 
 ll|>nn -nlid -eleW Jiile- whiell ale tillllU |>lallted in the linttnlil lielnW. 
 lint |'ir|ii||ilieularl\ . a- i- ll-Uall\ the ea-e, lillt at a -li'jht enlis el'jin.: all'.^le, 
 il fiilln a- lieailtiflll and ilitiie-tiirj a -eeiie a- an\thile_' tn he fmind 
 
 ■tWeeli Lnlidnli all 
 
 1 the Nnlth rnieland Indeed. lhiiU.;h the \i\ii| 
 
 ei llnlll' 
 
 it tlie-e nnnn inii~ luaenn- and liuht -hi|i- ha-, nf emir-e. Iieeii dietated li\ 
 
/ 
 
 .l/.l/.v/.l'/V; TO Tin: MM'IJX. 
 
 83 
 
 IMiivly ulilil;iii;iii iirrfssilics, it is wuii.lci ful Ik.w iiiji,M|ii(icciif ly it lijiiiiioiiisf.s 
 .•iimI ruiiliJists with llic viiiioiis l.iown uy yivv nr nissct tiii,L-vs ..(' cvitv otlu-r 
 
 siirioiimliiiys .'mioiii; which tlicy stand. Vuv 
 <hf|i iv.ls :iii<l cli.ict.hitcs csprciiilly, tlinv is nothing on «.iirth lii<i" a tidal 
 r\: Tints that winihl lie ahnost ini|>(tssil.li- anvwhcri' i-i 
 
 "••jfi't in the ncnciallv ili 
 
 riv 
 
 sc in 
 
 Natu 
 
 iv aiv 
 
 t' is an Orii-ntal richi 
 
 K'ss and 
 
 Inic not (inly alluwalilc hnt alsi. tiiic. Tlicr 
 vividn.'ss alxHit tli.' ..ccasinnal ul.j.cts of the Lowi-r Thames which entirely 
 iv.lr.nis the •■stnary fn.in that th..imhtless char^v of dnlness and .yrevness 
 that dull -Tey ey.s too often jieisist in Liiii-ini;- a;nainst it. Onlv. if von 
 wish t<. se.- th.' tidal livei- as it is, you nnist not merely -aze at its flats 
 an. I mndliaiiKs fr.ini the neiMhh.Mnin-' sh..re, n..r hurry up and down its 
 main r.iutes .in the |.ros;,ic .l.vk of a passen^ier or excursion steamer: you 
 must he content t.) l.-.ik l..vin,^ly at all its minor creeks and channels, t.. 
 win. I your way t.irtuously in an.l out of its l»arrows or its oases, and to 
 sail up close under the yreen weedy tresses that han,i;' from the tide- 
 cov.'ivd timliers of its nunier.ius lieac.ns and its sturdy liyhtlDUses. Then 
 in.le.'.l you will find a wealth of col..urin,u- and a variety of toni' that 
 yiMi c.iul.l har.lly e.pial un.ler any ..ther circumstances until y.)U reached 
 the narrow lanes and r.Mind-d.imed mosi|Ues and ,i;ay eastern costumes of 
 Stamlioul, Cair.i. and .lerusalem. 
 
 '' '"^ """' "'" 'I"' ,Ui<'at advanta.^vs ..f your liiihth.iuse, t.»o, that he is a 
 
 ^ I sitt.'r: no small re.-..mmen.lati.in, indee.l. in the eyes of that mudi- 
 
 harass.'d ami perplex. .1 .l.'vot.'e ..fart, th.' marine painter. Ships, unfortunatelv, 
 w..n'l sit, csp.-cially uml.'r canvas : at the exact m.tm.'Ut > on think y.ni 
 have tixe.l y.mi' .-utt.'r ..i' y.mr slo..p, with the win. I pictures.iudy l.ellviuL;' 
 hci- .sjiils, and stern and hr.iadsi.l.' stan.linu' out in tin- m..st deliuhtful 
 possil.le persp.-ctivc. tell to ..lie l.ut sli.' lutfs incontinently, tor no ..ther 
 ivas..n .111 earth than i.e.'ause her c..uise di'inands it. ami with.nit the 
 slightest referen.'.' t.. the personal needs ..f the hapless an.l .lisappoiiited 
 liein-- who has ..nly just that iii..nient sii.'cee.le.l in r.apidly sketchin,-- half 
 '"■'■ I'lotile. Kv.'ii a liar-.' I.y a wharf if y..n iu'^in to paint her, seems 
 
 ''■■'"' "'i< scii.usly t<. ivseiit the insult, an.l .-asts ..tf at ..iice, ..ii purjiose 
 
 '" deprive the unhappy liystan.ler of his .■herished chaiic.- ..f a prettv 
 picture. Kvciythin,-- .'Ise -m se.i, exc.'pt lln' li,i;lith.iu.ses. will .laiice and skip 
 
;ii 
 
 Tin: 11 I'M. Til. wins. 
 
 \W ll,.' liltir Mils of Snipimv ll.r .nn.n.Ml tluv >rr M sIhtI uf u I wl.il.- 
 
 h ItIoIV llicm. Ilir liulllll.'U-.s ill. .Mr >l!lll<l still 
 
 lr;iu iiii: |';i|'i 
 
 r s,t t.iii 
 
 ,i(|, ,\rllllil' |iatitli«r 
 
 fcaluii's 111 iiracc Mini '\ 
 
 ami all"\N a ma 
 th 
 
 II t<i tiiiisli liis sUctcli III' llirir 
 
 I iiuirl *'r sl;i\. th.'iv Is 
 
 itlitT lliiiiL; iifsiilr 
 
 li'litimiiM' tliat mako a -oi'i 
 
 1 sitter I'll- tiir maiiiir iiaiiitn. ami tliat 
 
 •a 
 
 tliclir cilijiit is a Sim 
 
 km ami lialf Imiiril \M<rk. Tli. iv is niu' mi tin- 
 lir. I.N till' \fi\ <•'!::<• "f '••>■ saml . lilV, ami willi tlir ai.l 
 
 Majiliii ..\.r >.'ii 
 
 ,,f ,,ii|- littl. lii.at \v«' air i:..iii^^ L' l:ti 
 
 i| nil tin- iiiu li'lu.' 'Ii'il 'li'' 'i'l'" '^ 
 
 ■sell 11'. \\ lisiiiL: an.uml ><> lapu 
 
 llv. ami mak.' a liastv watrr ri>l..iir nf her 
 
 iimulili'riiiL:- lnaiiis ami -iti'ii ,ui<'\M> i« 
 
 lirs. 
 
 It isii t all I 
 
 ilaiii sailiii.:. imlreil, tliis anl.iit |.ursiiit ..f tin- ii 
 
 KtmrsiiUi' 
 
 oil t 
 
 w nil 
 
 l,r tiilal 'riiami's. Tak.'. t'.T .•\aiii|ilr, tlir i.ivtt\ l.il ..I' .•n-uMV.l wivrk. 
 
 h forms till' li.ail|.i.(v to this .liai.I.i'. iHTpiiiu .mt Lows ui.|.rnno.t iVoin 
 tlir mvv r.luv of thr Majiliii. mi wli-'sr >lioais sl„- stnnk, a iiimv tVamiinit of 
 tlir kiii-litluails uitli til.' rM-likr liaws.liol.s, i,ii.l a sli.n ti inl wimllass o\,i- 
 
 ■ rowii 
 
 li\ ilrooiiiii'^ oozi- of iiioss-iik.' ura 
 
 ■k Kas\ I'lioii'jli to paint. 
 
 mil' won 
 
 111 
 
 av 
 
 l„fmv ..iif lia.l tri.il it. l>ut tli.' i.li.\sical ilitliriilii-s alonr in tlir \\a> an- 
 
 i;iiat ili-al stioni^tT tliaii aiismir laii 
 
 i.a.lilv l.rliiM' \nIio liasii t sirii tln'lii. 
 
 Vmi iiiiist laml ..n tl,.' sumll.aiik from a small l.oat. lansin- n.|..iirs an. I 
 
 |.a| 
 
 lainr iM 
 
 iifulK with \mi ami tlnn m.ii nni 
 
 -t stan.l most lik.lv .itlur in laiii 
 
 Tham.s t'oi: for half an limir oppositr the In.. km w n 
 
 rK. w 
 
 hill' thr tiih' 
 
 -low i\ nsi's mi i\civ 
 
 -ill.' ar..iiii.l voiir rlios.n stamlpoint St. |i l.y stip tin 
 
 water vanis on \oii -lailiiailv. ro 
 
 niiif^ tiist ii|. t.i \..iir 
 
 tlim to \oni' 
 
 an 
 
 tmirl 
 
 kl.s. thm to \om- ralf ami liiiall\ L. .\oni kmr. till, as thr last tiiiisliii|._r- 
 
 th.- skit.h. \mi aif -la.l t.i sa\r \..iiis.lf lV..m tin- 
 
 H's all' jiul upon 
 
 l.i'iakiis in \oiir l...a 
 
 niai 
 
 t. liolilim_' till' piirioUs pii';;i' ..f papi i hiuh aLovo \om 
 1. out of ivarh ..f thr spiMv. ami linkv if \mi linallv pull to ih.' \awl 
 
 with iHithiii'^ woi>r 
 
 l.\ wav ..f a ilu.'kiii'j than a w.t ia.ki't. 'i'hat is th'j 
 
 I ai'tualitv si.lr of a niaiiii.' paint, r's -Miimwhal rh.-.j 
 
 oo\i I'sr o 
 
 I'Xistmci' ; ami iml.r.l manii.' 
 
 iii'it'il ami \ar.i'ii 
 
 paiiiti'is are. for the most ]iart. a hanly ami 
 um-oniplaiiiin- rate -.f m..it,'ils I'so has ai'i'Ustmne.l iImiii to st.iml all wimU 
 
 iml We;ithels with the pi'lfe.'t iiiicmici'in 
 
 if till' r.imni..ii maiin.r. liaiilships 
 
 that woul.l il.iuiil most onliuaiv lamlsineii an- ai'.epL.I l.v those lmiu;li sniih 
 
 with a.lmiialile stmersin. 
 
 I .speak, of emiise, of lli 
 
 e ''.iiuine o 
 
 r stafaiiii'. 
 
MM!) IMF. m Tin: MM'LIX. ,(.-, 
 
 inariiif |>iiiii(cis. Ki.r iIk re is » spiiiious. uv (liy-laii<i. itiiitiition of tin- rojil 
 
 .•titiclc. svhicli iismps llic iiiniic iml I, but luis ii(>lliiii<;> to iln with the scji, 
 
 t'xci'pt to sit (III tlic shore iiinl p.-iiiit the waves fnmi a sat'.' (listaiice. For 
 this saiiddahliliiiL; kind we, who hiivc once tossed about in an open boat with 
 the Miiirv Mntiies i.r the W'vllies tn the niaiiiier l)o[ii. can't help t'eeliiiy ,:) 
 oiir own minds suinetiiiii^ veiv like a pojitelv-veih-d contempt. 
 
 i.4««»ii*»#dP^ 
 
 IKK liviiwirii. 
 
if il>» 'i it at ^,.,uM 
 
 nil in M K» Mill. 
 
 CllAITKi; IV 
 
 Tin: i;>>r..\ i>ii \i!ir,s 
 r* * t'* '•"' '^^'' 'i''^'' '"'•'" "■"li-i";: ;ilii"it. ni.iiiilv mIihil: tin- -imiiIhiii 
 
 ^■y nr Krllli->ll >llcil<' nl llir 1 i \ i T IIH Hit ll. Mini x'rili;,' lillt littli' 
 
 ^' iif till- iHHtlifiii rci;i>t. wliirli trniil- ;tu;i\ in ;i ImMii- NUft|i 
 
 uiit\s;iril to llir uliHiiiiv K>v\ iii;ii-Ii1;miiU .iml tin' ImluMii;: 
 
 IHiiiii^iilM >>\' till' SutVulk llat.s. Tn(la\. liiiWiMT. aftii- :i 
 
 >tiiilii\ iMLrlit |iii-.r.(il at aiiclioi ill niic cit' tin- mi k> tlial liraiii tlir la-tiiii 
 
 Maplili. \M- >tt ciiii' cuiiiM' iniHf >.l«'ailil\ imit li la-t , ami iiiii l>rt'<iir uiinl ami 
 
 tiili' alnim tlir liiuail iia\ i;:al'lr rliaiiml '•!' tin' Svsiii fur tin- |MPit nf Ilaiuicli 
 
 At tluuii tiiiir \Vf n.iilil liarillv iiiakr iiiurli \va\ ill tlir littlf I'lijUn uitli a 
 
 I'.iiil wiml. for till- tlonil xt^ lirir t'^r till' tiivt tWM Imin^ uitii r\iiani.|iii;u y 
 
 \flucit\ . I'lit at ilili it siirk^ n> mii tiiicds in tiic ip]i|M.-itr diii rtiuii, 
 
 wliilr in till- \Vi>t Swill. iMtwct-n tin- M-niv ami tlif .Ma|iiiii. it iliaw- n> 
 
 Ih-I'iiM' it with wiimliit'iil ■«tiiiiL:tli "ill tMwanIs tlif ii|)iii (liiiiian (tnaii. 
 
 For iinw ayaili tin' mHin^ nf cpiir taut littlr yawl clraily trlU ii> \m- air 
 
 fairlv tVti' nt' llir Inwir rivi-r ami allnat nii what laii mils tilly In- ih>riili»i| 
 
 a- till' iHitiT i-.tiiaiA. A liiii;: run rarrii-> ii-^ all ila\ lliii>ii;.'h llir Swin ami 
 
 thr Shi|iwa\. wiih the -all t'ciaiii ila.-hin;; L;lcirii>ii>ly in uiii' tai-r>, ami lamis 
 
 ' 
 
 n> sat'flv lati' at ni^hl in ihr nioiith nt' thr (»ii- or .\1>I 
 
 !• lUii. wimii iiiiws 
 
 h th 
 
 mill the >ia a 
 
 I thr ^a■^l^■rll cAtiiniitv of till' Siilhilk ciia-l. mar Hit'nrilnf 
 
/ 
 
 '^ 
 
/ 
 
 :i 
 
 f 
 
 m 
 
 'I 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 I 
 
'1 
 
/ 
 
 rut. t:ssi:\ i:sTiMiit:.s. 
 
 A Ntniiylit liiM .li.iwii til III nit'tinliii'SM 111 till Ninth I'lmliiiiil vmmiIiI t\ji(tl\ 
 iiir|ii-r till' 'riiiiliirx i'mIiiiiiv ill tlir wiilti' -ciiM' ill \\|ii('|i \\r hnvi' iirn'|)t(i| 
 till' liiiii till tlir |iiii |iiist-. iif tliis i'iiii>r. with it». in(<iiii|iiiii_viiiy; skrtrhis jiml 
 <lt'Hni|iti\r ii.iiiiitiM'. 
 
 'I'hi' Swill. thiiiiiL;h whirh thf /'-//A'// |il<nijih.s hir w.iv iirii\il\ the li\i'- 
 
 Idiii.' iiiiii'iiiiiL;. thniii;h it t'niiijN th<' iMiiiii lii I' thr Ninth Si.-i triiih' tu 
 
 lliillilinl. thr liiiltic. ;ilii| the ciist cniist III' Snithiliil, riililiiit liii,'i>t iij' liriliju 
 i|lliti' ^<> thirklv |iiii|i|ii| with hiilVV shi|>|)illy' fis tlir hll';;rr liirli'iilitilr triirks 
 that i':irr\ thr tnithr nf l.iiiiiluii iiml tlir Thjiiiirs iuiiihI thr North Knit'laiHl 
 'IIkI iiill ilitii thr lii'iiiiii Atlaiitir li\ thr l''.li<;li>h Cliaillirl. At lirst. tilt- 
 Nnith Sra i- Init a I'lniiiiinii ir>trirtril Triituiiir hiyhwav. ii<»t, likr the 
 Kiiulish Cliaillirl. a ('i>siiiii|iii|itaii iiiaiitiiiir mail. Irailiii^^ straight uiit in 
 tlivnsr iliiritiniis In Kiiii)|ir. A^i.i. At'iica, ami .\iiiriira. I>iit tln' ciillins 
 iiiakr ii|i III iiiiiiilii'i- \\>r thr lark nl' rir;,tri' crat't, t'nr llirv ran cinwil two 
 trip-. Ill NrWiasllr inln ii wrrk. ilistrail nf (Irayrjii;; niit tlil'rr intilitli.s in ii 
 siiii^lr \iivayr III liiilia nr China, 'riinlirr t'lniii Norway also romrs this wav 
 to thr j'ori of Loniloii As wr L;li"h' \\ith i>itrliin.L; p otion lirt'oir tlir fitr 
 wtsi wind ilown ihr >wrr|iini;' riirvrs anil niazr-. ot' ihr Swin, we inert 
 (■oni|>arati\rly I'rw ilrr|il\ lailcii inmhantnirn. siirli as tliosr whose liii^iv 
 hulls wr saw |irrs>r(l ilowii tar into thr wairr to thr \riv vri'jLiC of riinisoll'.s 
 liiir with wiIlcIiI of \Nr.-.t liiiliaii su,i;ar. or Kjivptian whrat, or linliaii falnirs, 
 ill thr ri'owilril laiirNof thr i'l'ilirr's Cliaillirl; ami mils an orcasioiial strainrr 
 hrir (iia;;s its loiiy tiark i f foam ai'ios.s thr dark lirowii water, with 
 trailing; |iriiiiaiit of siiiokr stirainin.n in iniiiky ina^iiitieeiiee far, far lu'hind 
 its olilii|iir Mark fnniirl. iJiit. mi thr other hand, thr lislu'i' vessels of tlm 
 North Sra riowd thi<'kly nj) and il un this principal path to the yreat 
 .sole-lireediiiL; Kaiik of the hoLiLjer and the lively ipiays of (ireat (iriiiisliv, 
 liowestoft, and ^'arinouth. iiiterniinuled with the fanners' lii^- liariies from 
 .Maldmi and llaruieh. Ipswich and Colchester, with ureat .stacks of straw 
 and hay piled halfway up their eiiciimliered masts, takin,y the chaiici' of 
 a tine day to slip round in haste and tienililiiiL; firm their own ports to 
 the London riNcr. What the Swin thus lo.ses in si/e of craft, it certainly 
 ^iaiiis in lieanty ami pictiiresipieiiess, for there are few ships mi Knrlish 
 waters which ha\r kept their anrieiit >iiiiplicity :iiid i|iiaiiitiu'ss of ri.L;' so 
 
!|M 
 
 run rum. iii\uis 
 
 l..im mi^|H.il( a-, til.' ^iiiiirk* im.l .llv.lyfiN .-t tli. |..v* |-„|.I Xu-liiiii \UW\\\<, 
 
 ll'l.Mi>ll 
 
 W. -ikimI llif iiiulil ill «Im' lilllf iMiiaiA 
 
 • ii II 
 
 lltl^l'll hI iIh' M<Ii' III 
 
 (»it'.»iil itiiil '« I "111 II. At iiiinu to tsiilMir till' .iiiioii- Lit .'I' iMii-l lliiit 
 
 Hti-i'tclu'H linin- al.iii- ill.' Jii.li.'.l .iiiA. "» ll"ll.-<l.> ni»\ a» \'nv a-. nil"..nlii.«. 
 
 till' .'Ml. III.' limit 
 
 >t til.' Tliiiini'^ iiiiiulli. .'\.ii ill 
 
 till' \\i.|.'<l ".rllT .it til. 
 
 |>li|-a«.'. ail. I til.' riiitli.'^l oiituaiil | 
 
 I iMiinl wlii.li NX.' liiiN. •••'I Im'I'.iH' .hiimI 
 
 \v 
 
 lalliii'.' «itliiii ill.' |>i.ii.'.'l.'.l .•'•iii|>a-^ <>( <mii [.ii'^iiit . \| 
 
 t . \|i.'.litii>ii It i> 
 
 iiu.'i'r am 
 
 I ...III l....kiliu' I'll ">' 'li"l"'. '•li'* "Itiliyl"' liaili.i tlial >..'|.aial.^ lli. 
 
 < Ml' tV.'lii til.' •i.'iliiaii li.iaii, a *<ii 
 
 I nf Clii'^il I'.aiik oil a 'II 
 
 ill >i'ali . with 
 
 till' ».'a "11 I 
 
 li,. 1,.(| ,.,,„| i|„. lixi'i ..II ill.' li'^lit. wliil. Ill' I'lli'^M' i't |i.'i-li|\ 
 lu-arli *ti.'l>lii'- ImIwii'Ii iIhiii I'.-i a .li'.lam.' "I' «.'m.' iiiii.' iiiil«'». a- it .ai 
 
 jiui'|M>M- t" tiu-li.'it.' I'l a 
 
 t l.a-t ili'las lli.il ihliii.liil |iiiiil ii.ii < Mi 
 
 liar.llv >taml l.\ iIh' mail. 11" t"V\.i .mi tli.' Iiiyli li.lu- lliat -.-x.'!-. ^.a >.»i| 
 str.'am witli it^iiaii"\v -iiin at AI.I.'Imm.'II'jIi uilli"ul tli.' m.'m"iN "f T.iiii\>..irH 
 
 .•viHii-il.' 
 
 liii,., ill til.' ■• M.nt.' .1 Ailliur' ii>iiii: iii->tiii'ti\.l.\ in iIh ..Ii 
 
 ..iii;j 
 
 ■liaiiilH'i'H "t oil. '< liiaiii 
 
 A I'n.lnii I li.iii'-.'l «itli 1. •'r>.k<i( ir..*' 
 Tliiti kIihhI 'II .1 .lurk H.r^ii ..l l<iirn n IuihI 
 Oil i.iii' «ii|i liiv til"' iK'i'nii .iimI I'll "ti. 
 I.i\ .1 wT.'..' w.t.r iinl til.' iii""ii w..- lull 
 
 Till' liii.'^ Will wiitt.'ii. "f (•..ih'.i', t"r iIm \\\\>\ ('"iiii'li r..:i>t, with iu 
 
 •4t"iiii li.'at.'ii 'uiaiiiti' I'liiu'''. vvlii'i'.' ill.' i'"rm"raiil »it' fXiMiiaiit "ii li.-r 
 
 lirrtlill'^ |M r.'ll ali"\.' til. Mark ali\>' ..t' till' I'mioil- Xllalllii- ll"I I"! till' 
 
 lii\\ ".lirU iiii; SiitV.ilk >li"ri'. VNinii' tli. lii.ak'i> "!' tin N"illi Sia .lii\i liir 
 
 I'lillili^i >liiii;:l.' In'l|ii.'>»l\ Lit"!.' tin III "II I" tin -liall"U mai->liv minlliaiik' ; 
 
 liilt till- (|.'~i'l i|it i"li •^llit' till' "IM- 'I.III' a' NX I 11 a' till' ..ill. I lit II. il a lilll.' 
 
 I.itl.'f. t" iiai.pilv a |iaiil"iial'li' II iliri iiiri-iii '. ami tin ilii-aiv ilf-i.latiiii'»' ..I' 
 
 till' tl""ilril Alili' at lii'jii till, i' aliii"-! a> mmli in k. .'iiiii'^ with thr |..ii'i\i' 
 
 mi'lain 
 
 Ik.K i.iiii' lit' till' " Mm ti' >1 Ai lliiii 
 
 a' i".ili 
 
 till' .Jaik ■.tnli'lii'' III' 
 
 l>"/iiiais I'.Mil. wliiii' till' l.aiiiiat. > '^lapliir vmihI |piiliiii' i> ii'iiallx liuali-r.! 
 
 Iiv .'"iiimiiii 
 
 liailili.iii At aii\ rat.'. tlii> ~naii'_'i' < M t'"i iIim'-- |ii'1iIi|i' i iil'. 
 
 r I- III 
 
 it'i'lt' a Ml A -III 
 
 '.filial' an. I luaiil iliil lialiiii"! i'la-l Aii'^lian cia-l -riiHiv ami 
 
 Its .(I'liiin wi II ili'-.'i \ .'- a mniiiinl 
 
 I > r'.n-i.l.iati.iii at llh- liaml- ■ t* ll 
 
 1' |.a— iii;i 
 
 ;li'alK liiimli'd Iiiilll't. 
 
/ 
 
 Tin: ussnx nsri'.MiiKs. 
 
 x\ 
 
 Tin- Mill' livti nil ilt wjiv wruwiinl iVuiii thr luw Siillulk liil 
 
 U llll|ill|;r 
 
 vvllii'll it (akfs ilM li-c ;i|i|ir<tiirl|ts rliisr tu till' >l|n|c ;it A li|flHirtlll)r|| — "Till' 
 I tot) Ml I.' 1 1 i>t' ('lIlltlM'o t|i|i;,'||irt|llv IlillM' mini >«kr|i'|| jlliil si'l'llls mh tl|illl;(ll 
 
 it liii'.'iiil at iiiK'i' t<i i'in|)tv ItHcIt' iiitn till' Ni'ii lii"<ii|i' thr |iirtiii'('si|iii' )|iiii\s 
 ,111)1 liliilii'ii'il liiiMit hiill jiinl irilliliJ liiil^riii^r linllMi's nf tlllll |ili'ttv illlij 
 irtilrii •i|i| witilil w.'itrlinir |il,'irr Hut II lull iit' lli'.^ll liriirli ii|i|ii)<«t's \\\\s its 
 iialiiial ami iiuiinal iiitriitiuii. mi that at'trr ari'i\iii;;: within a hiiinlii'il vaiiU 
 III' I III' hiuh liili- iiiaik it tii'iiils nhni|il\ ^Miiilhwnnl min' iiiuii', as tliuimh 
 iiV a HlHJih II llUcltlMHlylll, III ilMiJil lilt.' ItllNtllli'tiiill, Ulul Ctilliimil'M til Kill 
 
 illKcpKliMiMS, 
 
 tor iiiiir iiiili'> t'liithi'i' |iaralli'l with thi' shnir, t'l'niii wliirli it is mily iliviili'il 
 liv till' lirach ilsi'lf or orrasioiiallv l»y a soint'wliat wiiliT strip of wtitfriiiL;- 
 iiiarsjilaiiil. 'i'hi' liroail or incii' thus iiankcil iip liy tlii' tall liar of shingle 
 is Orfonl Mavi'ii— till' river liears tin- iiaiiu' of Aldf at AI«U'lioidu,nli, and of 
 Oil' at Orfonl— a |ir»'tty iiilct, crowdrd with ln-roiis and ^'ulls. wlu'ic the 
 shrill scnaiii of the sea-swallows is heard continually in the air ovei m ad, 
 and the rarer shnie-iiirds of the Kast AiiLrliaii swainps may often lie startled 
 from their deep recesses amoiiL,' the tall reed-;^''''"'''*'* <•♦ thi" llooded islands. 
 Kvidently. the ori'^^in of this curious luai'kish la^ioon with its liouiidary reef 
 of heaped up sliiiiLrle must have lieeii somewhat after the follow iiii,' fashion. 
 The Aide must at lir>t have limved into the st-a at Aldoliorouj,di, its natural 
 
40 
 
 riii: Tii>\L ///ii//>. 
 
 ,,,itl,.|, :,n.l 11111-1 li;i\. ilclM'-il.'l a I'.nik ><( iim.M\ -ill :il it- n ill. lilv -• 
 
 lli:m\ ntli.T- c.f tlir Nulfnlk nl Sutl..lls livrl- Oil llli- lunk "t' -ill till- 
 
 xv;,\,-. .if ihr (i.iiiiaii (trraii, .l'i\.ii \>\ ill'' pi rv ;i iiiii- imitliia-l wiii.l. liiii-l 
 li;,\r |.ilr.| \\\> a Ic't'lN liia.ll nt' Wal.T Inll..! |i.lil.|.-. wlllcll W.illM lir liiuli<-l 
 
 aii.l tlii.kr-t al III.' 11. .nil. Ill an. I .a-l.'iii -ii'l I'll'' -alli.riiiL: Im a.li \\..iil.l 
 ,-,.iii|.,l til,' ri\.r I. mill -...iitliuai.l in ..i.i-r I" .li-.liar-.' il- wal.r-. ami 
 \\..iilil .au-c il I.. <l.iM-il a >..-..ii.i l..\\ Lank ..l' alluvial .l.l.ri-al il- ii.w 
 ,.\ii Hiii ill.' -hiiiuk'. -lill ...II. 'liiii; an.l diixin.: L.tni'' lli.' <l..iiiiiianl win. I. 
 v\..iil.l |.i.i.(r.l I.. ...ui-x llii- -..-..n.! -li. It an. I -... tV..iii a^.' I.> a-c ih.' 
 Al.l. \\..iil.l II.' ti.rr,.l I., waii.l.r ainil.— 1> \.l ruilli.r -..iilliwai.l, aii.l lli.' 
 Iicaili \\..ul.l -inl.li tor l.-uu. r aii.l i-\'i Lur^. i .li-lainr- |.aiall.'l willi it- 
 Ufl'-ial (•.•in-f Al llii' |ir>-i'iil .la\, wli.ii il lia- i.aili.'.l a- tai ;.- I|..|l.-I.\. 
 niiii' niil.'- il.iwn. llu- -.If -am.- a.ii..n -till .'..11111111'-. ami llii' -liin-k' i- 
 (■\tn ii.'W I'linu I At.'iitl.'d -..iilliw ai«l l.\ r\.i'\ trnal ii..i I li ta-h r -t.'iiii. 
 
 ( irf..i.iii('— it-tlf '-..n-i-l- ><\' llif jiiiliii'^ . 11.. .w ..i iii..-l |.r..j. .1 in- 
 
 |...ni f tlii- I'.ni; aii'l naii'i.w -pit "f alluvial laml In fi.'iil -li'ldi.- tlu' 
 
 sea. LllI'Tc'I l.v ill.' l.ill li.a.'h . in iIk- nai' a |..vv l.vil ..1' -ill. iiiiuli inlt r 
 -,,'i,'.l 1,\ -i.'ik.'.l .ivk.- ..f -'av\(..l willi'iiiiu in lli.- uiu.l. lUii- .|..vvn I., lli.' 
 Hi,' ;i litll'' al...\«' <>rf..i.l Tli.' inl. rv.niii'^ -|..i.'.' luin- lli.- iiaiuc t.f l.aiil.in 
 M.'ii-li'-. wliidi I'-liti.- I" ill.' anii.|iiilv .■!' -..ni. kin.l ..f i..'n.'..n ..n llii- 
 i'\|Hi-.'i| -pillna.! 'I'vv.. lili'^'' 1..I all. I vvliil. li'jlil li. .il-. - Im'VV vv.iin ..|i \.--.|- 
 fi..iii ill.' I..VV -li..i.', vvli..-.' liiM' i- li;ii.|l\ vi-iM.' al ,'i lilll.' .Ii-I;iii.'. ..ill in 
 -l..iiii\ vv.'.'iili'i . ih.v i:ink aiii..ii;^ ill.' tin. -I an. I h.-I ''.ni-i i U'l. .1 kini.in- 
 i.n ih. v\li.i|.' I'.iili-h ('..ii-t (>if..|.| t':i-l|.' k..'|., -1,111. lilr^ .'li ill'' -Uliiliiil t.f 
 a lii'jii ■jia--v iiiiiiiii.l i:i|.|.aitnl Iv :ii I ifuial i in lli.' I.;i.-k'ji . .iiii.l. ai'i..— llii' 
 ( ir.', al-.. -t'l'Vi'- ,1- ;( Will kn..vvn -.a mark i.i -liip- l...uii.l fi..ni l|..ilaii.| tm 
 
 ■I ha- l.i'.'ii -.1 l.'ir.^ i.'i'<.-ni-i''l llial 
 
 .'Il vv j.-li ; all. I It- ul lilt V in I In- i. -I 
 
 W II. ll 
 
 M, 
 
 an. la! .viai.iui 
 
 .f I 111 if.. Ill al I ll.' I'. '_;iiiiiin'j "f ill.' |. 
 
 Ill ..nliiiv 
 
 .i'..li..-i'.( I., i.ull il .I..VVII I 
 
 /,.-/ /,./' 
 
 /' .' I I 111' t ii.\ . I nniiiit i<\ ill'- .la V , v\ lii.li 
 
 >uli| lak' 111. kin.llv inl.i.-t III ..111 I11-1..1 i.al ni..niiiii.'iii- a- -1 
 
 i.'li. inl. I f.'ii'.l 
 
 Im -av. II jr.. Ill 
 
 .|.'-I 1 il.'I ii.n l.v it- fav.iillal. 
 
 ii. i.'.'--i. 111. I'i..ni ill.' |..iiiii i.f 
 
 \ h'VV I.I Haul l.'al 11. '.'.'--i 
 
 lit- al..|i.' llahpilv llii- nia'^liill.'. Ill 
 
 •I' 
 
 .'llii. ll . . 
 
 lai.r N. 
 
 illiian .-a-ll.' Iiilil.lilrj lil liiav .lal.' Iia.'k a- tar a- ill.- lil'jii 
 
 -I'lili.Ii) I- li..v\ -:il.' Ill 
 
 ill.' i'\.'. Il.'lit 
 
 ,. I'l.iir.: ..!' Sn 
 
 Ki.'liai.l Walla.'. v\ h 
 
'/'///; /;.v,s7;.v i:srrMiii:s. 
 
 41 
 
 •'■''■^ "'•'■'' i> >l|i ils ;i >|||;||| inilM'Mlii (if (Inlilrslir ;||1 .'111(1 solid ulil Kli-lisli 
 Ih.ii-m'IiuI.I riiriiiluiv. Tlir liii.'>l virw uf ( )it'nn|iic.s.s ;iiiil tlir Alilt- rstii;ii\. 
 with tlir yclluw w.ilcis uf 111,. (;,.||ii;m Ocriin |.ir(l with t'iv.|iirlit siiils lirymi,!, 
 '^ '" '"' li'i'l li"in llir lull l.;itllfiiu.|ils tlijit still i-A^t the solid kv<.'[\ ul' this 
 impIiIi' Kiist Aiiuli.'iii sli'uiiLihold. 
 
 At Alilfl.nlnimh N.l|.cs, ;ili i>n|;it,d |, •,!-(' nf siilldhjl ids lllillkfd I 
 
 i\' il 
 
 diiiiciiiL; lilncU liiiny. (,\,.r \\ husr tn|i tjir s|.ia> nf the sr;i is iinw hivakiii 
 iiii'iiily. \\c twi^t iiMjiiii shaijily un uiir course t'nr oiii' ivt 
 
 mil niii siiiitl 
 
 w.ii I, ,'tiid sir the |M.i|Miiscs hai'd hy dis|)liiyiii-' their hi|oc fat sides in 
 play ii|Miii the fnaiiiiii- surface, or riding- thimmli the tnnmli of tli 
 
 e sea 
 
 w I 
 
 Ih MacU liack and tall stilf tin jn>t showing' I'm- a secnd lietween ciest 
 '■""' "•'••■^' "•' III'' >l"iil l"|.|iiii- Ndith S.'a liilluws. Iluw they s|».it and 
 
 ''"^'' '"I'' tVnli.-: In what fantastic cuives they spiin- and -anilMil an ,-■ 
 
 the iHiister.ius waves, as if rejoicing j,, tli,,;,. ^^ji,] f,vcdnni and extraui-dinaiv 
 -ii|t nf niiisciilar pnwer: They lnli,.w lis steadily imind the point of Oil'md- 
 '"'■-^ •"!'' I'-'-t III'' l<'le-raph stati<.ii where the siil.niariiie cal.le starts on 
 its ion- joiiniey foi- IJolJaiid (ware cai)le in aiu-lioiiii" otf the low spit.') 
 'i'l ^^'' '■"" iiiiind into the \ery month of llaruicli llarhoin. So rapidh do 
 ''"•.\ ^''"i 'li'' water that thoii-h we aic sciiddiiiL:- liefore a clear lihie 
 northeaster (wind ha> hicUily shifted since yesterday)— and the /'//////, can 
 make lair way with all her canvas on her. too— the porpoises |ilav round lis 
 carele-sl\. a- a do- runs round a carriage on the road— now in front of 
 "^- ii"\\ lieliind lis, and now tiirnin- aside awhile, attracted l.v some 
 passin- iioMlly. only to catch ns n|> a niiniile later and dash ahead of 
 "'•^ '""■'■ '"I""'' throii-h the hiiiipy water with iiicomprelien-il.le and almost 
 inconcei\ aide rapidit \ . 
 
 The path from ( >rfor(liies> for Harwich leads on jiast tlie Ciitler. llriiiL;- 
 Orfordiio- low li-hthoiise a little open to the iiortli-we>t of the lii-h li-ht- 
 
 hoiiNC. 'wilh jlawdxN Chiircli iioi t h-iioit h-west half west; kee|) I 
 
 lillle, will \on .' " till Noll 
 
 p her away a 
 "■<' Hear the iKdth-easi end of the Cutler, and 
 
 ''"■" "'I'"'" 'II'' '"\^ ii.ulit t(. eastward; and so. stceriii- l.y l;aiiisholl Clmrcli 
 to the wotward of jiawdsey Clitf into Feli\>tow Itoads. till Dovercoiirt 
 li-hllioiises hear north-west l.y west half west |o |,ort of \ ou. Katlier 
 hieroglyphic to the nnnaiitical mind, no doiilit : well then, h t us he perfectlv 
 
/ 
 
 »J 
 
 Tin: riiiM. tii\^ii:s. 
 
 iMihli.l ami .Miit;-.^ that till w. o\ir-rl\.-. I. ami t^ tin\ ili,' .niniia-- nii tliis 
 vciA ,iui>c. aiiil t«i \»'\\ till IhIiii wlirii .lnl\ mhI.i.cI 1i\ .•nii-i it uI. il 
 autlinritN . ami In liiiiiu iin ii'iin.l id llir wiinl "U .aii^f ■.Imwii. wr wnc 
 jii-I a^ iuii'Taiil till- (.111- nwii j.ail of tlir iiiiMcii imaiiiiiu com r\ id li\ llii> 
 plra-aiit MataiiiiL: jar-. mi, wlii.li ii,\ . i tli.lr-- ianir> willi il -" iiiaiiv 
 ilcli-litfiil i.iiiiiii^triir. < nl' idlr (la\- . 1. rni"ii-.l\ -|h1iI with th.' ^alt lnvtv.c 
 liluwiiiu ill om'> t'a.T. ami tli<' l".iimll. -- lioii/.,,ii ^i i, idiiiiu a\\a\ illiiiiiiaMv 
 nil .illi.r -idr. witiiMiil llu- tiaiv |...-.-.il'ilit\ mI' \h<^\ ..r Irlr-iaiii i.r <lai!\ 
 |iai>ir ciiiiiiii: t" ili-tnil> vom jilaiid inniiiin-- i|iiirt ciiinN mciit I Ik- iniu- 
 ta(i-r> u.Tc tiiiil III' 'iNtr rliiiiliiiiu up llir rlimliiii:; ua\i\ \Mir tli(\ .' 
 'rin\ Imi-.tl tnr lam! ami iv-.|iiti \'\>>\\\ \>'\\ ami iimhI ;iii<1 uainhiin- N\i'. in 
 tlic^r (la\-.. lia\r liallit ImHit. 'i'lic |m|iii\ |hi^I lia- illi\<ii ii^ mi liii' ^ra. 
 and wi' kmiw that lln' -ra i> llir Im-I plarr lift \<>\ iimmIiiii Int u- lat in- 
 Tin- aiirimt \><i\\ i>t' Harw i<-h I'll I hi--Na /.!-. -itiialid aimin- iIm- rnUN ii ^in- 
 (•■.tiiai i<-> I't" till- Stoiir and tin- «>i\\ill. ha- Ih-uii nf lali- Mar- In nrnMr 
 -iiiiir nt' till- |iii-ti-i- wliirh il lii-l diiiiii- till' lull.; iili|i-i lit tiadi- and 
 iia\ i-atimi in thi- tniiiiirK tlniii i-hiir^ r.iniir nt' iini|ia\al j-.n-^^laiid In llir 
 Middli- Au'--. indii-d, while j-lli-jli-h mil ■(• -till tuilii-d ia-l\\aiil In llu- 
 
 (•i\ili-id i-niit iiii-nt . lathi-r than wi-twaid In tin- n|Mn and haiiiii Allanlii-. 
 till' <hwcl!, with it- inniith |iniiitiii- lull ii|iiin tin- Wiallhv iini ilianl inihiiinii. 
 Uiallh- nt' Am wi I |i and tilnlit and riril--.l- and thi- l.nw ( '.niiit i ii -. laiikid 
 |irrlia|i- hiuh'-I in i-niiinuiii.ij iiii|ini innri' aninii- tin whnji- Inu- inll nt' 
 i'Ji-li-h ri\ir- iji-wirh ciiiii'-d nii ii-ilt' tin- i-iilin- jiiili-h wnnl imdi- 
 wilh tin- -tajili- 'A' l-'lamhi- and W'allnii Inrnn d tin- tavniniti- |inii ,,t' 
 cliiliarcatinli fill tla\i||ii- Imnml In tin- I iih rilii- nt' tin- Srlnldt nl the 
 Kiiim- liiniii h Ha|-\\ii-|i it-i||' ua- tin- | il ilii-i|ial lalidin- |ilai-i- tni rniiilni i ,i I i|r 
 1 inlliiim-i|ili- nii-li-lialit - t'lnlii tin |inrt- nt' llnlland. and l\lll -nlni halt' 
 riiitiii-\ lati-r it wa- llu h-i\iii w In iin rinlii-ini -aihd with hi- lillli- ih it 
 
 nil hi- t'alllnll- ViAaU' 'it I '• lilnl ;it lull ||| -.lali-jl 
 
 it that ilii-i\i- and tiiialh 
 
 lliilH a 
 
 •tiralili- Nnit h W'l -I 
 
 a — a-i- 
 
 - - tin- nlll\ ll 
 
 1 1 II - 
 
 till' \\i.rld that 
 
 wa- \(-t li-tt iimhim- iis whii-li a iiniaMi- iiiimh' iiiijiit -till In- niadi 
 
 t'aiiinii- and I'ni t iiiiali-. At tin- hi-j 
 
 inniir^ lit' tin- |iii-iiit i-iiiliii\, hnWi-Mi, 
 
 11 
 
 irw n-li lialliniii liail lallili llitn a |i| 
 
 lialili- -tall- nt' in--lii-l and di-iiiliid 
 
 nil- 
 
 -ti-alin-l- di\i-rlii| tin- Nnith Si-a tradn In l.niidnii m i|-i\\ In-i i- : tin- -hiirjli 
 
'/'///; /:ss/:\ i:sTr.\i!ii:s. 
 
 4.3 
 
 '"■■■"■'' "'" l-'tiiil-iijiid ri.iiil, M|-,,\viiiM' .•(.iiliiiiiiilly uilli tlif licii|mi,L;-ii|» dC 
 |tflililcs l.y (III' ;i.!;mrs>i\c limt li (■;istcis, iilliinwt clidkcd tlir clil r;iiicc to llic 
 iMill, .■111(1 llic (ilMT tlniili>liillL;' li;ivi'll sjink lir;i|!y In the |in>iti A' ;i st III y-il illy 
 
 M'cc.iid ijiir ii>liii|M \i||;,ov. At l.'ist. ill |,st;;i. III,' (livMt Kfisicm Kiiilwiiv 
 *' I'''i'i> ^^''i-^ lia|)|)il\ iniiidid. jiiiviiio- ,,,,, i(s jjn,. ini,, ||;ir\vicii, to stiirt ;i 
 
 ^'■'■\'' I' sicillllioiils .•iiToss In llotlrnlillll :ill(| A 111 \Vcl| . : il Inlio- stone lnvilk- 
 
 ^^■■'''•'' "-'^ '"" < to M',l ill iVoliI of llcjiioli Cliir to rii,.cl< tllf tilliliu-ll|i 
 
 "'' t'l'' "i''\\ cliiiiiiici ; :iiiil ihr ciiiiiiiMv wiis ilivil-v.j out to its foiiiicr 
 '•'T'li- ■•""' I'lotrcKd lor III,' rmiin' l,y ;i Jin,' ,,t" stiinly -T,iviH's on tlic 
 roliiii,-; tVoiit ,.r l,ini(l-ii;ir,l I.c.hIi. At |.ivs,'iii th,' Imriioiir liiiiks one,' nioiv 
 MS ,.11,' ,,f 111,' tiiMst on III,' c'isl ,'o;isl of Kiih|;iii(I, miiiI .uivcs slicltcr iit 
 liiiii's wlicn till' ■ -T,\ c-i.si wiiiil" is (■.•iic'i inn too \\ii,||y in its own Cc'iilcss 
 
 '"^lii \''i' til"' <i''riiiiiii Oc'.'iii, to iis iii;iii\ as loin- Imnilr, I sail ,.f all 
 
 l.iinl,ns ,,n a sin-l,' nioiniii-. Laiiil-ii.iiil Fort, on tli,' spit ,.f liiml o|.).osit,' 
 
 ' •'• ''I'l i-'laii(l). Willi li,'av\ -'ins ,-ov,'iiii,- I he ,'iiiriiiict' of tlir Stoiir an, I 
 
 niw,'ll. ;iii,l the nci-lil.oiiiiii- Kal tcrics. as u,'ll as tli,' iiiinifroiis niarti'llo 
 low,'rs ill, HI-- ill,' slu'Kin-- coast, add a cTtaiii yrini |pi,'tiir,'si|ii,'n,'ss of their 
 own to th,' hiisy sc'ii,' ; while as a -ival tishin-' station, Harwich is natiirallv 
 rich in the iisiial s|.ecial allra,-tioiis lor the lover ,.f ih,' iiicttires,|iK' alwa\s 
 allorde,! Iiy the iincoiilaniiiiate,! |iis,-at,>iial interest. Iniiii,'nse ,|iiantities 
 of lol.st,'rs are lir,>iiL;lit o\,'r fr,.iii their fa\oiirit,' r,M'Uy l)ree,linu-|ilae,'s on 
 the Norw,".;i;iii c.ast and fattened f,ir a tiin,' in tanks here in an extensive 
 lolister nursery, when,-,' ilay are tinaily despalchcl t,i liii,| a hot-waterv 
 ,-'•'1^'' at ill,' Loii,|<in tishiiioii'ucrs' ! Many smacks ais,i eiiuauic in the 
 |M-o,lii,-ti\.' lislM'iy olf Ih,' |)ou'.;,'r liaiik ; and in siinuiier the Kentish 
 shriiii|„'rs l|lll■^te|• in foiv,' al Harwich. oiii\ ret urniiiL;- t,i their ,>wii coiintv 
 with full |io,-kets ;tii,| ,ni|)ly ,'iafl al the iM'uiiiniiiLidf OcioI.er. 
 
 Ill'' 1"" "liiii proiiioiiiory that o|peii> out lo |,','ward as \,iu turn s,uitli 
 from llie estuary of the <iiw,'ll is the Na/e, wlh^e nuMhrii name has l.eeii 
 ^^"I'l down In a III, I,' aohivvialioii ,,f it>. ,iriL;inal litl,', i:a,liilf's Nas, — the 
 woni l),iiiL; al li,.tl,iiii i,l,'iilical Imih with Nose .md No-,, |t i- the same 
 old Sc,iii,liiia\ iaii root wlii,-h reapin'ars in S|i,iel>ur\ ii,'^>. ;iii,| e\en in c.iiies 
 '•'i-^ii' ''■ 'iiid lilaih-iu'z ,>ii ihe o|i|.osite rivncli co,i-i. \\',' shall meet it 
 a-aiii in a -.till nioi,' ,listorled torm when we run up llu' ri\er to th,' N,ire. 
 
/ 
 
 11 
 
 Tilt: TlltM. rHAMI.S. 
 
 |l.\.)ii.l tlif N.i/c we flit «ili|i.|iiil\ .iiiiw'. .1 'j,u:\\ liiulil tliMl niiis in 
 hiiioiil; tlir iiur|ilf K-«>«\ im,u>IiI;iiiiI-. w Ik -»■ t';iiiil I'liii^li niilliiii' wc ciii 
 
 olllv ..(•.•;isii.||;ill\ ilcsciV llCld^'- tlu' Inliu VflloW f. .| t- 1 nlllM I of tl.it^ .llnl Nllnl- 
 
 liaiik>. Tliix i^ the r^tnarv nt' llif Coluf ami llir IHackwalii . ii|i wliidi 
 latttT liver \\<' ilivtiuf. .'"' in "liilv ImhiikI, to \ i^il Maldoii, ilic ('ii>i(>in 
 lli.iisr of l.ciuli, wlio-r familiar mark, MN 17 oi M N -Jit. \\r liav aliva-l\ 
 iioticcil |iriiiti<l ill lioM l.lads littcix ..n tlic li'li 'mowii ^aiU ol maiiv a 
 lii^lit >liriii!|><r or IuiiiIm rini; ^maik "i rliim>v lia\ liai'^f a-> ur liamcil alioiii 
 licfoir till' i'an\iiiu Nviii'l aloMu tin- Tliaiiu- i«ai-lu'> Tlir lllai-kwatii oi 
 
 I'aiit (till' lattrr (joul'tlo'- it> oii-iiial I'.riti^li iiaiiin form-, ilir \ir\ t\| f 
 
 tlu'Sf shiiriri^li K»^r\ liilal triliutaiir^. with llnir loii:; llat l>aiik^ ami riii||r~> 
 iinitldv liarkuati'i-- dixiiliii;^ ami -iilnlix idiii'^ louml iiiar-li\ i-lami^ and liiu 
 inoji't'tinu alluvial |nniii>iila-. i'>ui il^ ~.liiam i- iiimli rli-ami than 'riianic^ 
 water, with dark \\a\in;j -raweid fa-teiied at tin- liottom. from wliieh it 
 derive- it-" prettv old world Sa\on lilje 'I'ln' whole -urioiindinL: eoiintiv 
 lieie iemaiii> a- a -tandinu inonnnieiit ot' woik wiouuiit li\ the tiilal 'l'hanie>, 
 for it eoii-i-t- entiiiK of ricli -ill de)H»iled ii\ the rivei and it- I'onllmni-, 
 and eoiiiiniialK reinfoiccd li\ fie-li aei|ni-ilion-. tiom the -aim- -low aetiie,^ 
 
 eau-e. Imleed. a \a-l |ild|iort ioli of the tlat lalnl- aiolllid liie i,o\\ I I i lianie- 
 eoli-i-t- ot' -lleh leetllt alluvial uaili-. e-|ieeiall\ in Slle|p|.e\, at Slioel mi \ m — . 
 
 at l-'oiilm— I-laii<l. and aioiiiid t lie iiiiuiiilnreil -w aiii|>\ iiioui h- of I he ( 'roinli. 
 the (oliie, ihi- < helnier. ami the I'.laekwater. 
 
 Tile ( 'oilie it-elt'. eo||iniol||\ called l>\ ti-hillllill the ('ojehe-ltr «'nek. 
 
 i> a faiiioii-. o\ -ter-li-iiin'_' ceiitii-. and ihe well known letter- <'l\ on th.' 
 -ail- of -iiiaek- from it- d<|Mhdeiit I'a itlin^-ea iiia\ he -r.n e\ei\ where on 
 I'.rili-h -ea-. fioiii the ('haniiel l-laml- to ihi' north of Shetland Iml t he 
 trade i- now had. and \ aelit-lmildiie^ i- at |pre-ent the chi" t' liii-iiie— of' tln' 
 tiilal ii\cr Ihe i>i itliii'j-ia men maki' lir-t rate vaeht-iiieii too. of a miv 
 line and -tiiidy |pattein. 
 
 N'oiidi 
 
 r ureat -andhaiik- on oiii h t't :i- we -ail ii|i the hii-v littl 
 
 i'llaekwater are the l»ane-i\ Mat-, and the wln'h- ilundiecl lnhiiid tliein 
 
 lear- al-o ihc name ot l>eii'^c\ ir |>aiie-i\ tlial i- to ~a\. the l>ai 
 
 !>.' 
 
 l-l;.lid. \ 
 
 ■ ur >ealii|in- 
 
 -m 
 
 h in-iilai tract- 
 
 a- ilii-. 
 
 with inteilaciir.^ tiord- ,,iid iiui 
 
 inlet-. W hell- he Colljil I'lll I ilicll 
 
/ 
 
/ 
 
/ 
 
 '/■///; /:ss/:.\ /:stcm;//:s. 
 
 I.*. 
 
 Iiiiii^rlf ill ruiiir<ii't ill his isliiiKl sf iiiiiLjIiiild iiiiil iludur llif kiii;f's iccvis 
 willi lii» iiulil .sr;Mlij|n(,|,s jilimiiM the t'liiiiili.'il' clrrks \\ liciicv cr the lictivv 
 SllXdii tlfcl cllilr.'lMilll'i'il tn lulluw llilll llllnllc^li the lflllL;lci| iniizc nf hilld- 
 IimImiI rll.inilrls. (>|| I'MIV isllllMl nr |il nIlKilltniy . jlllli'i-il. Jijulin nil tjlf Kllst 
 Aliyliiili ;iiiil i'liisl Siixuii roiisl, the litgil lii'ii |iii;ili's jiiivc |,.|'( IJicir iiit'inorics 
 iImi'InIv (•liiNlfrcil ill Ini'iil iiiiiiics ihmI (•iiilhuoiks ;iihI riistnins, wliilc sdiiic- 
 lilll's the \(r\ sllllijilllfs of llir ililiiiliitllllts llicliisfKrs still |ilrsciV<' ll 
 (lisiiii(ii\r iiihiciil ScdiKJIiiiiviiiii liiiL;. All tiicsc |u\\ spits iiml licinlltiiiils nf 
 lllr Tllcllllrs. .'IS Ci, 111 jsiijic Tiiylnr liJis |iuilit('i| nlit, lir;ir Nolsc (It'siyMll t Inlis, 
 siifli ,is [''(ticiicss, Slii'lliii'ss, Wliitfiu'ss. {''itiiliicss, ,'iihI WniliiM'ss ; n little 
 |iriiiii>iil,ir culuiiy nil the tuiimif nf liiiiil liy tlic Oiwfil wiillcd oil' tlir 
 Sukrji lic'lilkllld. wliflicr W.-iltuii Ir Sukril still ciills itself liy its srcniitl 
 liiiliir ; iiliil h.-ilK'sry llllliiircil liMisI liavc fnl'liii'il iiliiitliei' ilil I'lisi vi- scltlciiiciit 
 (if till' sfjitiiiiii^- Sc,iii(liii;i\ iiiii fnik iiiiitiiiMst their iiniiciiitiiial Miist Saxon 
 eiieiiiies. At a still later date, diiriii'^- the disaslroiis reinn of Ktlielied the 
 lledeless. a Norwegian host under Olaf Trv.uu'vesson landed at .Maldon 
 itself, wliere Kiiin Kdwaid the KIder had iniilt one of those ^r at lioider 
 loll rose:, liy wliieh he overawed the tnilnilelit Diiliish kinydolii of Kast 
 Aiiiilia. and were met liy a Sa\oii reeve named I'.riht iiotii, whose nall.'iiit 
 defence has iieeii eoiiimeiiiorated ill oiie of the most stilling; and |ioelieal 
 liallads handed down to iis l>y oiir loiiLih early Kiinlish ancestors. The jo\ 
 of the ti.ulit shines tierce in every line, aii<l the short lilt of the rude 
 alliterative verses seems to foreshadow the later iin.L;iiii;' liattie-soiiys of 
 ('am|iliell and Teiinysnii. Kveii the haiies themselves, with their candid love 
 of fairness and sincere lesjieet for a ton^h tii;hter, declared that ISrihtiioth 
 had uivcii iheiii '•harder hand |>liiy than any they had i'\er yet eiijo\cd 
 oil l'jiL:lish soil; and tlioiiL;|i the •■lieatlieii men" were victorious, tliev were 
 olili,ueil to withdraw without |iliimleriii^' .Maldon, and to content theiii.seives 
 with the em|ity trophy of the hero riiihtiioth's luad. 
 
 We spend the iiiuht in the ciei'ks of the lUackwater, liy thi' fleet or 
 liack eiirreiit that separates the sea from the marshy main, where the 
 watchmen of the oyster .uroiind, tliiiikin.i;' wc must havt' come to steal the 
 oyster s|ial from the liaiiks, row round iis all iiiyht U>u<x to previ'nt 
 mischief Next da\. leaxiiin them uninstriictt'd, we coiitimie our course over 
 
/ 
 
 40 
 
 Tilt: TiD.M. rn.\.uh's. 
 
 |>aiif»i>v Kliil> :tii.l ill.' I".,t^i. HI M.i|iliii. till iil iiiiil«lii> Wf ^rr lMl'..if n- 
 
 till- i|i>I.lllt ln\N \N.mmU wlli-li lll.nk till' t':ll 1^ |M.illl i.f SllM.lilll \ 111 '^ Tllr 
 
 liiiiil lioMiii Mt' .irlillciA |ir;i(iirf \\;iiii'< u>. lliiit tin' l>i,; l'WIi-. ;iri' ti\iii_' llicii 
 niiii.'"' :>t tiiiircls |il;iiiii'il 'ifiiiiiiylx ill I he iiiiil»l "I llif >i:i. Imi ;il .1 <li pili 
 fiilK imi-M\<iv.l ,il l.'W \\:it.i Till' ;i(l\;iiil;tu<' "I llii- iiniili).'«'iii<iil \\<- in 
 til.' f';i.'t tli.it til.' -Ii..t- ^iiii|)l\ liiiiv tli.iiis.lsc>. ill til.' mil. I. iiii.l .•.'in 1..' 
 till- ..III iiuiiiii I'.'i I'litiii.' ii-c v\li.'ii 111.' tiilc r.'i'i.l.'s 'I'll.' .'.ii llisN.'i k I'll 
 ill.' liitli.i si.l.' tif Sli.M'l.iii'v ii.'-s .|i.iil.tl.'>- |ir.-.i\.'- ill.' iii.iii"i\ "I ill. 
 hmi.'s li.'iii wli.'iii ill.' N.— I""In il-< lillr. |..rlifi|»'> it i- tin' ^<'i\ "^^"ll^ 
 whi.'li til.' t';iiii.'ii> |>ii-:it.' Ilit'st.'ii. Kiir^ Alt'ii'.i^ I'liicf !i.l\.'i»;ii \ in lii- l.'ilci- 
 (l;i\s. \M'..iiL:lit lifif al'l.T li.' liii'l lif.'ii .Iriv.ii t'i..iii lii> I'Mili.r fii-lii."'^ .it 
 r..iitl.'.'i Til.' •vNoiks ■ ..I' ..III' iiii>.l.'Hi .1. till. I. Is -Im.w I'.ir l.'^- |ii.'i ui.--.|iic 
 tiniii th. \\,it.'i-.ii|,', tni' ||if\ i.iil\ .'.i|isi-t .it' .li.'iHS l.;iri;i.k- ,iii.l ii..ii 
 
 tiir-i-t- li.i.lli'.l ilii'.ii'^li :iii.l tlii.Mi'^li wiili l.i'^ -li"i Si I'liiv s|i<.u> ii.> 
 
 .'illii\ial ..ri'^iii at .>ii.'.' in ii'^ \>\\ \>\i>\\\r ; all lli.'-.- l-'iiv l"vv .'ll..i\v-' |.i..i.'. liiiu 
 int.. til.' s.a in l'i"iit ..l' inai-JiN wa-t.-. an. I ■Swt I'.uinl lli.' ..la-l l.\ .Ivk.'^ 
 Ill' sliiii'^1.'. lik.' Slin.'l.ui A h"— , nrf.inlii,.^. ami I >iiiiL.'«'ni's-< mark tin --i'^iiirK'ant 
 haiii-li li iiiiinat i'lii I In iiii-li.nil ai.' iiivarial.lv ..f \.r\ i.i-.iit .lal.'. ami ..u.' 
 tlii'ii I'xi'^t.n.'.' . iilii.K l.. th.' -ill ..f iiumI. in liMi- 
 
 K.iiimliii'j Sli.i.'iiiirx II.'--. ili.' Inir^ -tiai'^lil lin.' ..I' SiiiiiIi.ihI pi. i imi-l- 
 
 ;it III ill -aunt ina'^aili.'.n.'.' ii|iiin ..iir -a.l.li in-il \i-ii>ii At l"V\ li'L' 
 
 S.iiiili.'ii.l nil ill.' Mini .ii-|.la\- til.' lull .'M. iil nf it- iiiiiivalliii <«</.<■ Mat- to lli.' 
 •^i.at.'-t |.ii— ilil.' :. -till li"' a-lvaiitau'.' Smii ii.n.l .m S.a ih.' inlialiitaiil- |ii-iii.ll\ 
 call it. i.'.|n.'-tiii- \'-u at tli.- -.1111. ■ tinic in ta-I.' a litll.' .•!' lli.' walci 
 licl.iw til.' pi. I ill ni.l.i I., -.ili-fx \.. III-. It' lliat it i- i.ali\ -ill, .iii'l tli.it lli.'V 
 can iir..\.' a '^n.,,.! ;iml lawliil il.iini i.. tin a.|..|.ii..ii "I' ili.il liainil.— I.111.I.1I..1 \ 
 ,,ilii\ r.iil |.i..li;ilil\ 111. town ill llii' w h.'l.' kiii'^tloiii, -a\.' oiiIn lli.it S.iiii.r-.l- 
 -liin- wall riii'.^ pla.'.' in.litl'.i" nilv kmiuii .'i- \\ .-Inn .-ii|>. iMai.' .n \N .-l.iii 
 -ii|M 1 Mml, .'.ill -Imu -.. tin.' an . Ajian-.- ..I' |iiii.' ur«'> -liiniic^ iiiml tlai a- 
 llii- ainliitinii- ;iii.l ii\('l\ litll.' l'l--.'\ Mar'^^.i!.- Tli.' '.^r.at Icil 111.- nl' 
 SMiitlnnil. in.l.'.'.l. an- lir-l tli.- mini, ami -..'..ml tin- |>i. 1 ili.il li.i- 1.. . n 
 .■miiiiii'^U iiiMiii.'! t<i '.j.'t a. '1.1— ii i''.\.'iii -i"ii -l.aniir- .'.ill Ii.H' Imin 
 Lull. lull, ami a- it \M.iil.| Im- awkwanl t'nr iIhIii In lami lli.ir |>a--.'n'.^.'i- 
 km.'.l.i'ii in ill.' li.'.'iuiitul -it'i In.iwii -hi-li ..I' .'-^nut In ml. lli.' li.li in.il.iial 
 
/ 
 
 Tin: t:ssi:s i:sTt\/;/rs. 
 
 17 
 
 nC ii rilllll')' I'lilltilDiit (III l|» ;:i\r till' rinlilr •.'lit its illic), tllr jiiil Iuim lirrli 
 'l''vi^"'l I" I'liil'^r iiVtl' till' >.|||KC Ili'tWl'ill till' -itilitl slliHf IIImI llir i>|Mli 
 "X'll ilt .'" |Mu|Mr ilclitll I'nl sliiilllt IS In ll|i|)|ii;ii'll it It is iilii' tiC tllr |u|im>t 
 
 <'||||| liiii'>t ill I'Im^ImiiiI. stit'lrliiii;.' till' II mill' nml ti i|ii;iitir mil intu llii' 
 rstiliirv, jiml I'liiiiiiii','. iiiiniiliiiM |,, ili,. i,i,ir nml I'liiirv i.f llir tuiii'isi, at 
 lli'^h W.'iliT.'i lililj^'liitiri'lil lii.'ililir |iti>liii'li!ii|i'. Ill' ,'i| I'lili liilr ii s|i|i'||iliil s|l|i|\ iif 
 lii'll 'Hill ilrlii'.'lti' iiliiWII liM'l IIMIil. Till' VMinili'll jiili's li.lVr slllli'l'i'i I IlllH'll t'l'iilll 
 llir lilMlUt". of till' li'li'ilii III' s|li|i Wnl'lll. W lin ||,'|> jil'iiMil llilll<M'|t' ,'l M'l'iiillH 
 lllli^.'lliri' .'lliill'^ till' I'lltilT rnlll'sr iil' tlir LnUrl' Tllilllirs; ,'il|i|, |ii rhii'k Ills 
 liiililli;. till' \Miiiil ll.'l^ ln'ili >.'lt lll'illi'il uilll I'l'i'iisiilr. whii'li iHj^lit til |)l'iiM' a 
 Mlllirirlll ilili'l Ti'lil f\i\\ III ihc liiii-l illilllxll'iiiMs iiIhI |irl'-i-.l I'llt iif li|i»l|l|scs, 
 SiiiiiIicikI liiwii ilsi'lf iiia\ lir iT^anli'il as a niii\ I'liirlil ailjiiiii'l of Smil liriiil 
 |»it'l', It slaiiils ill jiai'l .III a luw laillii'ii clitl', willi a liiir \ii'\v hmt llir ncsscIs 
 ill till' I ill! iil: . ami llii' |iii|iiilal imi cniisisls mainly nf lamllailiis, linatiiii'ii, 
 
 tliillkr liiiys, ami utlni' i'"liimiill nlijrcis nf llir srasiilr, nilislllliri I willi a 
 lailllalilr ilr^ilr III rain all linllr-l li\i'lilliiiii|, ami Ifsulsnl In rllrcl that 
 ailiiiiialilr |iiir|iiisi li\ i hr |ii<iliialili' r\|i|iiilaliiiii nf llir |ia>siiiM' lniiiisl, 
 
 .h|s| |ias| llir w.Miilrli nnl t,\' Snllllirml |iirl'. a ylry illlrl sllflclirs limlll- 
 \\i's|\\aiil Iciwaiil llir iiiniililriiiii; iiiiiis nf Hadlrirh Ca.silr limiiini'talisrij liv 
 ('nli>lali|i'l, nil llir jnW hill ill ||ir liiiilillr ilislaiirr. Lriull < 'irrU llirv call 
 this sami rlirlimlirl'ril liiil'il. ili\ii|i'il ililii l\Mi ilrrji lira lli'llrs I'V sllnaU ami 
 
 iiiml liaiiks, kimuii irs|iri'li\rly as Lriuli l!ay ami llii<llt'i-;'li l!ay. I'p the 
 
 tilsl lialliril hraili'll lirs ihr Inisy vilL'mr i>\' Lriull nr ].{•{•, iillr nt' llir imist 
 (•iiii^|iii'!!nii- lilllr tisliiiiy criilirs nt' llir riiliiT 'riiaiiirs rsliiai'V. {' \i ami 
 • li'Wii till' ii\i'i' rxri'vu linr llir Lri-li slii'im|iri' is a t'aiiiiliar ami innst 
 imlirralilr |iri'>niiaL;r. |iiis|iiii^ his wav Imlilly in his jiril siiiall rral'l in ami 
 mil aiiimiL; llir lailm iiirirliaiilinni ami lUilliiiL;' slrainris thai rln^,' ami 
 cniilliiT llir rrnuiird liiiilillr rliallllrl. A til'r lilirils |irr|irl llall V n|| ilrck, 
 ai,.i alii'M' il a hllL;r (•alllilrmi Imils ami srrllirs in crasrlrss nirru'V. K\rl'V 
 ihiw ami llirii a man siiis ii|i ihr tlainr with a Inn^ iinii |inkri', ami Mack 
 wiratlis ui' sjiii.kr. mixi'il with \)\<j; sparks that My in llir wind, rise vnliililv 
 IVmii Ihr link and lake if |inssili|r, llir iirarrsi slinil-riil In a iirinlilHUiriiiL;' 
 pnudri' s|ii|i. ninnird with liri' ird llau tlyiiiL;-, cmivrniriiily tn Irrward. Tlio 
 tiaul-ml fni' shiinips dra'^s rniiliiinally licliind. and is drawn in and riii|iticd 
 
49 
 
 /•/// inn I. rnwns. 
 
 tlolll ll|i>lll< lit (•< IIDillll'll 
 
 .I;i| 
 
 t Tlif Ihi>» |»lfk "lit till j. il\ ii^li \\\\w\\ l'<»^ II till' 
 ,|i' ..I it* i..miiit». iiikI Mill'.' iIkiii liiftilx I'x. il.M.ii.l MUir kin<i "likiif*. 
 iiiiil ha.l U'^X Ik- liiili<ll.'.l u'iim«'rU i. Inn tit. minimi., ilux ilii..v> iiil.> .. Ui-. 
 ;,i„l |M.iii ill Mii.r iiit" III' I'iu -iiiiiiu'iiny. -.l.iiiiiinu .iiiililn'ii Tliii- ili. |i..i.r 
 l.rM^t-. tlinii*. Im- Iiiim' II" i"ii.: tiiiir t" w:iil l'.t\\..ii triiil ami . \iriiii"ii \Uiil.' 
 ill.' Iiiiiii:iii |.ul.li.' il.iixt- til. ii.Uimlau"' "»' |Mir.<ll\ l'i<«li l...il.'.l 'liriiii|>- 
 I..I it' iiii.l.ll.- .liio- I... t.il.li- 'rinii .11.1 i' an . a-\ ..m , |.i..l»al.l\, r"i llif 
 
 I ill.' lir^l -\\i»\ II" .I..11I1I l.ilU 
 int. I. »l iiiL' -iulit' .'II ill' l.'iw.T 
 
 Wiit.'i i^ k. |it li. i.'.'In iM.iliii'^ :ill tin' liiii<'. an 
 
 ill. Ill iii-.|;niliiii. .'IIhIv TIhti' all' ft « iii.'i. 
 
 'riialtifH tliali ill.''!' I.fiuli «liiiiii|M i<. \Nilli lli.il til. an. I tli.ii l".il. 1 "ii 
 
 Mil .ji.'k. ami iliiii \*li"l' l'M«\ tlii'-n- |ilvin'^ tin .im.^lial lui.l.' 
 
 Iiaslirtl U'ttirr till- •■><■- .'I ill"' .iitiif lis.i. \vli"ll\ m i.'.'iii''l l'\ lla- 
 
 III.' .'I 
 
 una 
 
 liir;:«'i" iliaiiia v\li.'>. a.t^ iiiir.>l.l iIlim-iIm- |'"'|' 
 
 iimlls ;iil Mi"iiii'l ill 
 
 main 
 
 li,|,| \;iii.'l\ Slii|i- iiia\ .'"111. ami 'liii"- nia\ 
 
 ll 
 
 n i|Ui. lis "liiiiiii 
 
 -.|iriiii|M'i u...'-> "ll ip 
 w.irlil- ."iiiiiK'rfi'. 
 
 It i* ui'ttim: a tiilli' .lii«k\ 
 
 liiiiiiinu l.'i' *\^\ Ml ill'' Mi^ 
 
 I. Ill til. L.'i'^li 
 
 III ii;i.|\\ ;iV "I ill' 
 
 :i^ w.' Iillli 
 
 li;ii'k l'l"Iii l..i'^ll l"Uai.l- ll 
 
 ll ru.i. am 
 
 till' \\( ll.'lVf 
 
 1 \M' li.ill' iii.ik. n|i "III mimi- I" lak« ail\aiil:rji' "I' iIm' ' M' 
 
 .III! Ill mil 
 
 li;ii'k iijiri' mill.' al.ili'. 
 
 llii' lMiiii'<li ^i.l.' ;iml 
 
 . \|i 
 
 jiiii' till' iiiltiii niiii 
 
 ililiiiLi .'.ia<|o ami uinllinv i> 
 
 III-. Ill tin- l-li i.r 
 
 «lii'Ii|i 
 
 \ iii::lil mil. I 
 
 inW.'Vll. W.illlit lit' 
 
 \\ I'.iri^iiiiii' .'illii "III lull'.: 'lav 
 
 II VM' l|. 
 
 i'hI.' at la-l In .ni 
 
 •Imr ill l.i'i'jli l!a\. ami -|ii ml iIh' -nrriiil 
 
 III'. 
 
 niiiriiiii'-' III riitliii:.: ani 
 
 III 
 
 n i.iaiJwaN 
 
 ill lllli'Vl'l 
 
 Mill i;iiiiv this 
 
 .';il 
 
 VU" W" sat'.' ajiiii'j tin wnlr i'';iir\\as t 
 
 'liiinml. ,'iml "mi tin- S|iili' in ili 
 
 ;i liiw 
 
 Slii'ii|ii \ -,'imlli;iiiks , ;iiii| llii'M i.iH'i' iiiini' wf rmiii- I" "in iiiimH im..:- Ii\ 
 liciullami iiliiiM' wliii-.- iiiml I litl» a -mall -i|iiaii .'liiinli i';i|.- iIh' '-ummit 
 i»f a litll.' r.iiiml. .1 liillmk It i- .Ink ami lainiii'j liai.l ulnii \m '^.l lli.r.'. 
 lull till' li'^lit- III' \Nirn-l:ilili- 'jlimim 1 f,iiiill\ ari"-> iIh' ( 'i.lumliiin .1- \M' 
 cii'^t "iir amlmr, iiml lli" Nun ami Mini-i' li'jlil-lii|i- 1 naiili- ii> l" taki niir 
 liiaiiii'j- \\illi -iillii'iiiil aii'Uiai'V tm' a li'jlil nafl lik" tin /'"/A", ulii.li 
 t'.ai- iiiilliim: i'\i'i'|it a t'i'W hiiiii- .|iliiit i"ii l'\ tin' .liliiiiL: li'l'' Tii'' .liail 
 •_ri\.'> u- liair a tathiiiii Inn lint iiiiirii. lull i|uili innii'jli tni mil lu.-iiil 
 
 " \M- III' li\ ijlll 
 
 ■ll\ tm till' Ili'. 
 
 It. ami 
 
 i|ii I'm liilti I wiatli. 
 
 In iii"n"\\ mumiii; 
 
/ 
 
 77//; /;.v.n7;.V />77I/.7/,W, 
 
 •!> 
 
 And nil \,,,\\ Mill' -In |i^ jidtl II (|;i\ iif |iil|M||iin; i| ' |t « itlir <>(' llic 
 
 ilfli^rlil-. lit' MicliJiiiy: lliiit Miie jfi'tH «iit|i MiiiMliiiiilly mhiimI it-wt iimlir siirli 
 uii|irnMii«iiitf rirniiii-^liiiu-e^ TUv ^nul imiv Im- liinii|iiii;c up ami flown on a 
 llili' licatrn oantlliaiik. or tocsin;,' about Im'I'oii' an an;,'iv iior' caHtcr, Itiit, If only 
 xou'ir tiicil fUou;,'li, \oii >luuilitr as |H'an't'ully an on a licil nC ilown iu 
 an iMaililln'.t |ialaci- of Hiirntal Iiimii'> ; that is in nay, if srii sirkiii'ss |K-niiit.s 
 \>>\\ : tliou;;li it's \voii<|t>t't'ul liow imii tlial woist ol' all tlii' minor evils tirsli 
 is ht'ii to is iiiiiii;atnl or tlis|Mllii| li\ tin- .siiii|ili' niiicily ol" liavinj( Monu'tliiii;; 
 <o till Oiir is lai' Ic-s likily to sutler I'loiii it \>liin one lias to inana;.'e the 
 liavi^'atioii or lielp in the cookin;: A liiin at the ro|ies iloes all the ;,'ooi| in 
 the woilil. It's the la/\ passenger that nml ilt nn f sei/e.s in letuili t'oi' hin 
 
 illll'IM'KM, 
 
 
 /^_ 
 
 — "^.^'''"iL*"* 
 
 nil. Solli: I.K.IIIMIII' 
 

 >ji i.i.Mum.ii 1,11 -v 1 1 
 
 ( IIAI'TKl; \ 
 
 "iir.i'iTA \M' nii: N"i;r. 
 
 sn.iIm' .it -i 
 
 \ MTld.'A 
 
 \\llll III! UllfiMllt'il 
 
 I.llilc ^ll^liiri.ili .if 
 
 l;ini ii\i'llii'.ii|, w li 
 
 ii-h liiriliri- m\.-n-:il mil \> 
 
 >\i- |c) he 
 
 hot Mnl'iMunl 
 
 I r,'i- till' iiiMin.;it. ;ii l>;i^l A i\\'<\^\ an 
 
 iiiii.r.:v iiHUiiiiiL: "li' ili'- -iipl" i.\ ainlMn: 
 
 I'l.illl oil ill.' 1-1. ■ •<( Sl,i|i 
 
 .f Wai.l.ii 
 
 ■\ ii~li.i- III a 1 
 
 laiiip. .1 
 
 IIIIV, 
 
 aihl cliara. 
 
 ■t.i i-tiialK xaL'Ui- l.iiw.r TliaiiH- .ii\ III'' lii: 
 
 ii'.j I'liti- ainl 
 
 (jiiW ii> l.i-li 
 
 Mill 
 
 ■r.iw faint, r aii.l taiiii.r i'\.'i\ iiniiii 
 
 ti' tlii.iii-li t 
 
 n- l:ii'\ lia/f 
 
 a- tlliillL'!! -.ilii' 
 
 'Im..|\ lia'l t; 
 
 M a I'l'^ 
 
 III" l.iii-li aii.l l;.'! 
 
 I.' I'll -. ill.'hiii'^ a In I 
 
 .tt.'iiiii'_' a\va\ a 
 
 t til 
 
 atllli.-. till at la-t th. 
 
 \\a> ii.i ilia\\iiij at all l.'tt. 
 
 I.ilt 
 
 It 111. "■.■I\ an 
 
 i,i,ii,,i,i,-i lijiir ili lilni-li \'.liit.' .•■.I.Mir Still. liii.iUta-t will 
 
 nnti'.'.'iti- -i.at.'i w. 
 
 t li.'in a I ha 
 
 111.'- t.ij, nii\i'.l \\ I 
 
 th 
 
 -.'lit I 
 
 <li i//li 
 
 iinl I- w.' -it "11 ill'' \\in'li. ''atiii'_' "iir -;i\"ii 
 
 r\ I., I.- Ill ami ill inkiii;^ "in 
 
 I'll 
 
 II ..f -ti'iiii'.' I.l,'ii-k t.a. u.' an- ifw ai .|.'l f.ir "Ui |.liil \>\i\ \>\ -.. iiiL' tli 
 
 fii_' lit I -l.iulv f. .1' 
 
 a \\ lull- a In I i||-i-i"- 
 
 t'l.i' 11- til.' I..IIL: ni"ii"t"ii"U» -.','1 
 
 li'.iiit !<( til.' aii'i.'iit ,'in.l i|.'.'.'i\ ill;.' 1-1. ' "f Sli.'|i|i.'\ 
 
 iH'aiitifiil Lit .if 1'.. lint I \ fniiii tin' |i"iiii "t \\<\\ ..f tli.' -'ii'ial 
 
 it i- 11"! 
 
 laniU.a|if, tlii 
 
 i-lav clitf- an. I t!at -aii.|l.aiiK- ii"i i- WanLii T'liiit it-.'lf .•\,'iill\ what 
 
 .- L.TccIl 
 
 1-1. ' ..f Sli.'. |i "tV wlii. 
 
 W . ||.' ,'l ll.'ll. .1 . 'I. W I 
 
 th it- hi-l 
 
siii:i'i'i:v AX/i Tin: Mini:. 
 
 rdiix'ii'iiiiuus s|ii','il<t'i' coiilil ti'iily (k-scril)o <ms :t Itold and (-(unuiandiii^' 
 |nc(i|iiluiis lit'aill.-niil. NCt it lias a |if('iiliai' iiitcivwt of its own t'roni its 
 unilfiK ini; i;i'n|((Mical structure; t'nr tlic ;;list('niny' clay of wliicli the iianl\ 
 is cuin|)ciscil contains an unnsiially lar^c niinil)ci' of rare fossils, linm^lit 
 down in rally tcitiary times ami ilepitsited Iktc i»y some mi^^lity riv<'r which 
 tlowed thiiiULih a faf wider ami lonuer stretch of continental land than its 
 |iMn\ aiii, degenerate modern representative, the existing;' Thames. The ;iroM|i 
 of small honses near the end of tiie I'oint licars the strictly a|>|iro|iriate 
 name of Mud Row, and L;ivcs shelter to a few isolated (|uarrynien who 
 nallwr pyrites for dve wdiks. or Lirul> M|i septaria for the manufacture of 
 I'arker's cement, in the clitfs themselves oi' anioiiLi the fallen iui)liish that 
 lies encnmlierinu the Keach l)e|ow. They also usually keep for sale a ,L;iiodly 
 coll(<'iion of twi^s and fiiiits lielonuin.ii' to tiie tropical palms and extinct 
 screw pines that once yrew upon the luxuriant liank of l.ie fori;-ot(en tertiary 
 river, the commonest heiuL; a soit of date fossilised into iron pyrites, and 
 known to the (juarrymcn with the usual ,i:lili identiticatioii of unscieiititie 
 minds as ••petiitied ti^s," I'.y far the most interest Iul;-, however, of the 
 curious remains discovered in the London clay ot the Sln-ppey clitfs are the 
 scantv relies of tiu' toothed hird, lieariii:;- on its iiiil projections like a 
 crocodile's teeth, and formimi' an intermediate sta.uc hetween the tierce jawed 
 swinnuinu monsters, half-liird and lialf-li/ai<l, of the Anieiican chalk on 
 
 tj nc hand, ami the familiar ostriches and emus of the modern world 
 
 on the other. 
 
 Tlie saiidliaids that liounds the whole northern shore of the isle of 
 
 Sliep|ie\ on I'M 
 
 her >idc of Waidcn I'oint is the faiuotis Cant, the prolialde 
 reuniant of an ancient land surface which formerly stretched out to sea for 
 
 thr r four miles tVom the modern coast-line ; for even now tlii' shore 
 
 of Sheppev is rajiidly wasting- liefore the ceaseless onslaiij;hts of the wavi-s. 
 and e\cr\ liiuh tiile after hea\y rains l>rin,L;s down another Lit or two of 
 
 f fallen dt'hris at its assaulted liase. 
 
 the crumliiim: ch 
 
 tf t. 
 
 loin the mass o 
 
 We run o\er the sh;dlow water— hardly a fathom deep in many |.laces— up 
 who niurk\ hoti.ses and l>ij;' u^ly forts show indistinctly 
 
 toward sheerne 
 
 throu-h the sot't weather as we turn the corner hy the (larri.sou iiuildin<is 
 into the wid<' sawniiiL; mouth of the Medway. The famous -luarriaiie of 
 
.).' 
 
 77//; Tll>\l. I II. \ MI'S. 
 
 Ilic lh.iiin> an. I 
 
 M. 
 
 1 1 wax 
 
 tak< 
 
 r 
 
 ai'c at Mn'ciiK' 
 
 SliriTIia-t \ " tl 
 
 ailois call it in llnir 
 
 Mum iliaiici. ,iihl in.lrnl it mu-.t It .■.uitr-.iil il,ai lln 
 
 apilal ot" Slir|'|i<\ , in >pili' "I' S|Mn^ri-, cannot l>c cnn-iilcrcl a |p 
 
 ■tical tciwn 
 
 fill- it lias ;i- tew attiacticn^ I'f a |iict iii-c-'| 
 
 in' 1 
 
 Icsci ill! inn a> tlir ic-^l of il 
 
 ratlici- lircaiA am 
 
 (lc-.iil;it<' iNJiinti uiMiii uliicli it 
 
 <lan'U It li;i- liut I'll 
 
 imsiiii I 
 
 riti>-\\\v ilocks antl niilitai\ wnilv-. lir-t piaccil I 
 
 n r>' w Inn t In 
 
 \in Sliiiini-ss niu->l 
 
 l),ilrii un.l.r I >c iJuMci -.^lil.tl u). tin- Mcdwax ami iHai.lc.l .in l'.n-li-«li 
 ticct in |-".nulisli watciv with |Mit.i-t inipnnitN Still 
 
 js ti\ tci make il>clf inl" a taslii'maMc walciin- ]ilac,' in tin-..- jutlcr 
 ,|;,\, mill it lia- acc.iKliiiuK .lc\i-iil .1 mw .|iiaitir t^ the .a-t. whii'li Ma/.in-, 
 
 mijrm.ii-. til !<■ "t' tin Marina t iicii 
 
 licci 
 
 it^cit' t'i'itli un.lci- the ileli-htt'ull\ inci 
 
 i\ster l>e(l> -Iletcll 111 
 
 t'lMiit lit' the imith -Imie all 
 
 1 aU" iinwii the We-t 
 
 >wale. w 
 
 llieh i|i\i<les the Ule ( .t' She|i|..\ tl.'lll the .i|i|.(i-ite leaclie-. ..|' the 
 
 Kentish e.ia-t 
 
 The West Swale ileser\ts a |ias>in- hcinr'> e\|il.iratiiin tVcmi the j 
 
 Ml-rmi 
 
 it' the ti.lal ri\<T 
 
 a-i a iiieicanti 
 
 tih- hi'li 
 
 w a\ 
 
 In aiicKiit tiiih- tills Swal 
 
 ike the Waiitsuin at Tliaiiet. wa- re-iilail\ u-eil a- the ehi.t' 
 
 iia\ i-ahii' 
 
 cliaiinel i> 
 
 liiiis a\i'ici.i| 
 
 r the Thaiiie- in thi^ |>niii>>n nf it- cMur-e. and \<\ -ailiiiu n|> it 
 
 all tin- -hall.FW- ami -amlhaiik> w 
 
 hieh imw l.ai the | 
 
 ilnjlis^ 
 
 it the iiiaili -tlealn 
 
 I'li'Ill the Ni 
 
 iif as tar iliiw 11 as t he 1 an Sam 
 
 I \i 
 
 1st as 'I'liauet wa< tin- earliest lamlin.; plaei- nf the |-!iiulis|i in I'liit 
 
 the earliest ii|i|Mi| t unit \ t'nr their IialUial sinees-ni . 
 
 1111, sM 
 
 the >Wale ■J.AM 
 
 ^eamlinavian piia 
 
 th 
 
 tes . the shi.l t elltlA ill t 
 
 ic iMl'jIlsli < IllMllli 
 
 •le. li. 
 
 lleatlnll lliell til'st willteleil ii\er ill Sl|e]i|ie\, lliukiliu tile 1 m - ilMli 11 L! i 't' liiat 
 
 li.m_' itiislaujht lit' the 1 laiie u|Hin the hard t'lHiiili; sud m| \\ esse\ 'I'n 
 this dav the Swale i- -till iiaviLiaMe. luit niils fni \es>els .if -mall liiiideii 
 and liaiL'es ImiuimI U>v Sit t ini:li<iuiii mi l"a\ei s|,ani. l'.\eii -n, it i- a lixely 
 
 little ri\el elinUirll : the ii\ster tislMl- lia\e llialkid il Milt liir their iiWII, 
 
 and nian\ -mall craft plv up and dnwn inisilv nsei it- -hallnw siiilace, 
 eii<_riiLieil in the I'lcal tiaile nt' carrxiiiv' I'lndme tVnm the endless marshes 
 tliat lieiii it in mi litlnr side. At the Sheerm-s in.iulh -land- the decaved 
 and till latih l'<ir.:iillen Inwn nf (,MieenlMir<>u;.di. an nldei place than Siieer 
 m-s. hut one that had suiVeied a hin;_' . ijip-e until a -hmt time -incc 
 it was made intn the ehief startiiii: pnint t'nr tin- I'lu-hin;; -teanieis. 
 
/ 
 
 I i' 
 
 sin. /•/'/: y .\.\7> riii: xoin:. 
 
 fii) 
 
 Imniiiiriiiltic Idiiu wiinliiiu rii'cks, iKiiiiiii^ nil' in cvci'V direct iini, like tiii^^crrt 
 riiiin .'I liiiiiil. |iciMii;iti' ilii' liiu iiijiislilainls !ir(ii!;i(l tliis |iiiit of tlir Swale 
 mill tlir Mi'iluiiy, Till' iiiiMltI;ils lirtwccn suiirtn wiili l,'iiIIs iiinl ntlicf sea 
 
 liiltis, wjin-r su.iy lr|lKlill> lirlV ijllitc IIIH 1 i>| illl I'l I I iV llir sHiiIlL; llMlliI of 
 
 iiilrii>i\i' .'iiiil |iri\!i>i\r man. Sliiniiiy li.iiiks nt' |Miir im/r .•illfiiialr rviTv- 
 wlirii- uilli Inw uiack anil tall walls nf salt inai>li vc^ictatinn . Init iinw liriT 
 tliirs a sinL,'!'' lM>n>c appraf aninnL; tlir ilrxilatr in^nlatcil ilcsrits, nr a si^^'n 
 111' Ininian lil'r ui<'<t tlir rvr n|i<in llic IimI and inti'iininalili' niai'siics. 
 <>iii\ ill till' mid rliaiiiifl. wliciT till' iiysti'i' linats air liusy at wmk drrdi^diijL;' 
 ii|) tlirir takr, i> tlirir aii\ tiJH'r nt' man'-- :irti\it\ ; tlir land ilsrlt" is ^ivrn 
 n\ri' ritlirr tn a t'ru srallts slirrp iil' tn linlllillL; risr sa\(' rilssrt Wrrds and 
 lank sra>idr imly glasses. 
 
 ( >iir rniir>r liack auain intu tlir main clianiirl. at'trf r\|(IiprinL:' •'dl tin- 
 i|nrrr iinrannv irrosr-^ nt' the West Swair and tlir laiirs nt' Slirri'iirss, 
 |iritiinird with miimlrd ciilidirs ot' tlsli and taf, Irads iis nmnd mirr mniv 
 las tlir tidr lir^ins tn lluw I ii\rr tlir >liallciw waters that rnvn the i,'reiit 
 es|pan>e i>\! llie ('ant saiidliaiik, Slieeiiie-<> '_;airiscin fades -lowly liehind lis 
 in the t'li'^. and a niore tamniis Npnt in the iiistury nt' the tidal ii\er calls 
 ns nil with ine>i>tilile eln(|neiice tn visit its Watery and iiidi'tinite Incal 
 lialiitatinii. We are enniin;;'. in tart, tn the iiot-kiinwn sea-mark >A' mir 
 wlmle iniirne\. Nmlli nt' the ('ant, on a Innu |irojectin,L;- sandspit which 
 int> niii intn the mid-spare lieiwceii the main rhaniirls i>\' the Tlia.iu - and tlir 
 Mrdwav. ihr Nnir liL;ht-lii|i. ill >nliiary isniatinii, Innms up dimly tlimuuh 
 the nii-is air, a L;reat nias> nt' deep led rnlmir ri-iiiL;- and t'alliiiL; rra-elrssly 
 
 witll ninllntnllnll-. Illntinli nil tlir <'lia llurt'lll tidr ,\s WC Hear llrl'. tide is 
 
 ju>l till- ninmeiit ill the \rrv art nt' liiiniiiL;, fnr hrr l>n\\, which pnintrd up 
 -tieaiii a few miiiuti - since, has imw -w 'ini; mund with the tlnnd and points 
 dowiiwaiiU .luaiii W'hili' tlir i^rrat slii|> ride- at anclmr in this unvaried 
 d.-iil\ rniiiiiie, li\ the \erv L;atewa\ of the naimwer 'riiaiiies, the ncean- 
 yniii^- -teameis and liiu im ichaiitnieii and saiicv yachts and lnn,u liarues 
 al' pa— li\ her. up and down. da\ and iiiuht. all the year mund, a cease- 
 le— li\iii- p.iiiniama of wnik and .ictioii ; I'Ut the Nnre lightship nin\('s 
 niih four tinir- in ihr ;wrnt\ four Imiirs, iust the leiiL;'th nf her own rallies. 
 
 lie IWI-t- ll!,lllllliatelv ilolii olii -U 
 
 Ic tn the olhel witl 
 
 r\cr\ risiiii;- nr 
 
/ 
 
 :.i 
 
 77//; Tim I. rii\^it:s. 
 
 cliliiiii; li.lr A ilri'.irs •.mi nt' i'\i'«t«'iici' iiiilv. in llir iiiii|.>i I'l' •'<) iinnli 
 >lii|i|iiim tli:it |iri |"lii ill\ I'MiiK , ;iiii| :;iifs nil cNciv >iilc: .1 ilnaiv liiiir lui 
 ;l !sc;il';irill'^ lll.lll ,lfru-tc>m..l tn llir iV.r lit'.' ol III"' n|..li •.1:1, |.t l.f rliiiilM'il 
 tllrli' Ik Iplc^^h iVolll Wirk \<< Wirk ill llllt I li-lli>-.|H'-^ whilr iMt\lini|\ lUf 
 i- nillllillL.' til Mini llo ill i\il\ ililCi'l iuli ns.I the ulmlr t'lirr (it llir li. .11 Inlli -.-. 
 
 '\;itir>. W'r -:iil ilii-i' In till' luMW ml liiill. <>ii tin ii.hiIi -.iilr i.f li.i, iiiul 
 (liii|i Miir :iii>li<'r ddwii. in •<'iiiii' tmii I'jitlnuu-. nf wain, nil tlir ^iiual Iniiuiic 
 .it" -ami. Ill make a -kriili nt tin- taiiinu- liL;liKlii|i t'liUii a rniiN .irhiil ainl 
 |iictiiri'-i|Uf ili-taiicf. 
 
 'llir |i\,r ill>t Iniv i-. '.tlV -lialliiW ilnlriil. tlinll-ll llnlr i> a ilr|i|ll nt" 
 
 frmii I'iulit tn till fatliniii-. in tin' main rnmimnial lii-li\\a\- nii litliir ■.iilr 
 
 y<^ II*. alnlii; tlir ThalUO ailil tlir M 1 1 1 W a \ t'nl Uf lia\t' clinxMI nin I lillL:-' 
 
 nil the f\act |iniiii nf till' IniiL; *aiiil-.|iil uliirli L;iM- it> iianir tn llii- I'aiiiiliar 
 
 •.lint -till' Nnlr. Ill i^ninl mIiI Mil 'J I i -1 1 . tllf Wnlij N(i|c i- a tnlln 1 p|' Nn^.!'. 
 
 ami i* r.|ui\al«iit In ih.- ■ n,^, nf » »i tniilm — . ami In tlir Na/.r li\ llir Iinit 
 
 ^i\ ilaiwii-ll SMlinlilllf*. iml.iil. llir IWn Un|.|> air ll-r.l In-rtli.l i|llilr 
 
 intricliaiiuralih . a* in tin- naiiir nt' llial ui'rat rlialk |i|nninnlni\ uliirli niakf> 
 
 x> cnji-liicllnll^. an iilijrcl ill tlir \ irW 1 it' |||r ! >nl -rt ■.ll i If rna-t ticilll i'nlllaml 
 
 IImihU. ainI >»liiili i> kimwii imlitrnriit 1\ a^ \\ liitr Nnir ni \Nliiir Nn-r 
 
 Msrii inlaml llir -alllr 1 \|i|i>*i\r tilji- -nllirtinir^. rlill_'* In a IHnjritin.: Iiill 
 nl |irak. a- in tlir Ndlr tlial nVrllialr.:- (iillirll \\llilr'> Srllmlllr "a ImMr 
 
 clialk |irniiinnlni\ .' M> tlir iilvllir iiaiuiali-I vmII ilr~.iilir* it ami tlir 
 
 >«.i\\.l tiiat tnnk» ilnwn t'lnlll all i-nlalrd hriulll ll|in|| ihr WiMMlnl lia-in nt' 
 tin- ■■ Mnl|~lill'_' Mnir at jlnlkillL.' I'lllt In tlir II Hairnet nlm 1 1 i\r nt llir 
 
 lamUmaii. il wmilil Mrm al tii-l -iL;lil a* ilmii-h tlinr urir im |iri r.jpt ihlr 
 ln>s«' nl III-- (If piniiiniitiirv nt' aii\ -nit at till- tlir iiin-t familial ami wnrM- 
 
 tallinll- '<^ all liir Nm.'- ill thr wllnjr nt' I'll I '...: la I H 1 , it i- lint lllllil nlir lUIII- 
 
 tn thr .\i|iiiirall\ rliail-. ni -m- n\ri- tlir uiiiiiml willi tlir 1 1 i-i riniiiial iiii; 
 
 i-\V cif a |i|arti.iril -ailnf. lliat nlir lir'_'in- tn |irlrri\r tlir -llllkrli 
 |irnjrctin|| nl' IllM IrJ'- V at if rajir tlnlll \sllirll tlir |ilaii' i|r|i\r- it- 1 1 irk lia llir. 
 Till' Null- Salnl i-. ill tart, a -ulillialilir (nl |irllia|p- mir nin^lit latlli'l In -av 
 -Uli-ll\l\ ial i'l'i |irnliili_':i( ii.n nt' tlir lli'.^ll lami that t'nllll- tlir liarklinllr nt llir 
 liumilr.j ..t llnn, ami aftrrwanl- -lll.-iilr- inln tin- IrSrl niai-lir- nl llir 
 
 1-1" nt' iiiaiii It jut- llllt in a .-tnii^'lil liiir frniu tlir mil '^^ thai iliraiv 
 
/ 
 
 siii:i-ri:) i.\/> ////. Miiii: 
 
 Ml 
 
 i>l.'lllll illdi till' inillilll' >|i,'|ri' IkIUitM IIic 'rtlMllll's Mini lllr .Mi'i|n;i\, illlil 
 I'lif iiliiilll IWip mill-, IVnlii the L'lliil il (lliis ;it Inu tiilc, witll llif f.\('r|it i. HI 
 
 of ;i >niiill •'li.'ihiii'l I'iilli'd liv the csi'icssivc n.iiiM' nf ilic .Inikiii Swiitcliwiix . 
 At tlir t'liil III' this \isililc iiml t;iiiuil>l<' li.iiiU ,1 liiililni slnml iimis still 
 t'dt'llirr >rau,'ir<l lur jilinut ,1 iiiilr mill n liult', iimi just iil its mtv pniiit, 
 
 till' lliisi' nr li)' wlliiv il l';ilU n\il' illtu lllf iliT|ii'r walrr, tllr Nnlr li;;llt- 
 Nlii|) st.'Miil> iiHMii'i'il at till' artiial iiiniitli nt' till' '^I'cal liver, tn <;'iiiili' 
 witll its iaiitniis all llir slii|i|iiii;u <'t 'li'' wmM sat'i-lv in ami init of tin' 
 I'l'it lit' i.iiiiiliiii 
 
 I'm' iiiiui' lliaii a riiitiii'V ami a liali' sniiir iiiilitsliip nr ntlii'i' lias Ikmii 
 immtril iiMiiiiivalilr ii|iiiii this tiim;iii' nl' >aml. ami |iiiiiiti'il mit tin' way ii|i 
 lilt' i'i\ir tn rvris slii|( that iiitrri'il till' strau'^ilinu' nimith nt" thr ureal 
 'riialiies tVnlil the lliull seas, The lir^t lineal |ire(leeessnl' if the |>l'esent 
 sliiji was plaeeil here in I7in l>y a Mr. iianililin. a |iri\ale peisun wlm hail 
 nlitaiiieil a jiateiit I'nr "an iin|irn\eil ilistiii;;'iiish!ilile iii;lit," ami trieil it at 
 the Nnle nil a M'^si'l a |i|irn| niatelv eliristelieil the A'./'y/' /•////■///. His e\|it'rilllent 
 |iin\eil tlinrnii.uhly siieci'>st'iil. aiiil the liiihtshiji was snnii at'tei'w aids plaeetl 
 (imler the enlitml nf the Trinity IIi>Um'. The |ileselll \essel. its niniler)! 
 ri'|ii'esentali\i'. is a lar^e ami snlid Muck nf a ship, painteil the nrdiiiary 
 
 deep led nf the Trinity linllse liL;'lltsIlips. aiid with tile Wind "Nnle" ill 
 lai'ue and eniispiriiuiis white letters displayed nsteiitatimisly mi either iirnad- 
 side. A pii'turesi|iie red liall nr raue nf liais is fixed as a further distinetimi 
 at the mast head ; liy niyht. they Imist lielnw it the lantern, whieh slmws 
 a ii'MiKiiiL; li'^hl with a Iniuht Hash at intervals nf thirty secmids. and visiMe 
 I'nr a distaiiee nf tell miles. The mnilieal maiks fnr the .-hip are Minster 
 Chiireh, mi the liiiili ,L;rmiiids whieh we lia\e already jiassed, liearinj;' S.S.W.. 
 and the (iarrisnii rnint at Sheeiiiess, west Ity snutli and three miles' dislam-e. 
 The lightship men emne tn the side witli lani;iiid interest tn see what 
 call lie takiui;' Us mi a cninparatively clear day ri^ht intn the middle of the 
 dmilitful shallnws . Imt haviiii; satistied themselves thrmii;h their hiiincnlars 
 that we are mil\ that particular class nf \ery uncminiiercial travellers wlm 
 iiaint pictures, they lmiiiL;e ntV a^aiii listlessly tn their mmintminus dutit's. 
 with a sailms true cmiteiiipt fnr tlu' fnnlisli practice nf daiiliiiiii' in cnlmirs. 
 ntlier than tatlnniim. It must he ipiite a relief fir tlieiii. pnnr fellnws. to 
 
.*»<) 
 
 /•/// /•//' 1/. /// 1 •//>. 
 
 .IT !l s||i|l L'ttlillU ill 
 
 t.i iliiii'^tr ;miii»ii 
 
 llir^r illllii;it<' >\\;iltll\\.l\H ;ilii| «.:Ml<l- 
 
 ir\ 
 
 l,a„kv f.-l lll.ll tll.N liav.' tl p|».ltlll.ilV lul iMltnllnilm llir nlir ...lit 
 
 a.liv.' fiiiulioii ..r ili.ir xvlmlr .•\i-.l.iirr. l.\ tiriiii.' ..fV a j:"" '" ^^•"" •" '' 
 ,,,• I,,,. ,,..,il Wliilr ilif Nkfl.-li.'i-^ iuv .m-ml:..! in >k. t.-liim:. lli. ihii.l 
 
 ,«,-.ll ..f til.' l-intN pul. nut tlir l...;.l .•Ml.l tlir. t.. pilll il'^IUIlM uIimI .IImI 
 
 ti.l,. ;,l..i,u'i.l.' Il"' li^'lit-liip. TIh' -...mI r.'lluw> !il.oi...l ;iiv !ilv,,,v. -I;i.i ..f 
 ;i cliat witli -...iihImmIn fV..m n-limv. mimI •.till in-.i. I'm- ;i \»r\> ;.! tlir .l.i\-< 
 |.;.1HT Sn tl.r i.ll.' m;.i. .ull.Tt. 111! tlir I."'"' ivM.hil.l. - !•<• .Ml. liii.l ..n 
 l„,;,r.l til.' l'"/fi". iiii.l .ln.> lii> 1-.M t.. l-ull ii|> -Inxvlv "itli .linn-s niii- 
 l,,|,l.ili- ill til.- liiMip.v ^.M l..\v;.nU III.' -niil f.l I. nil iImI ii-", ;iti.l falU 
 tui.uiltu..u.l> l..'f..iv liiiii. V.'iv l.i'.' ;.ii.i i.'.l >li.' l'-k> i>"l'"l l''"iii -' 1"^^ 
 
 i„ th.' Ulil.T. II llU-.- ^Il.'l|..l.— ni-Ml IiM.llM.T t.-MllU ..'".III Jlillll. — 1\ .'II 
 
 ,.^,.,, „;,\,. ; iii.l th.- null ai...;.i.l Im.vx .i-.nn.I I" lli.'-i-l. .it 'li'' '.H'' «1mii«''' 
 ,,f a ..tiav .-all.T. an-l >li"nt ..iil ii.aii.lii.l.' .lii. .ti-ii- .'.- I.. tli. l-.-l sn;i\ 
 
 ,., J,,., il,,. l,.tl.i .'f III-' ii>iii-' ll • \'''-' ''"■ ''''•• ^"■'- '"" ^"""- '""' 
 
 f..l a -ili-1.' I'aii ..f arm. I., inak.' aii.v li.a.JVNav a.iiliM il. au.l .•v.l. I-. U-'l 
 ha.'k t.i 111.' /'"Jfl» i- ;i l"ii,i: ''IkI «litli<'ilt j.i...' <\' u>s\\u- In lii-- 'H'I •■'H 
 
 i,_M n„i.,ii, I, .p.' Iia- I.. :..• |.ai.l ..ut aM.in with a pi...' >>i U'""l 
 
 ,i..,| f. it \>'\ a tl-.at. aii.l wit'i tlii. -.Iiav ai.l tl..' .li.a|.l".inl.'.l Mai.li.r 
 alt. 'I- .l.'taiU ..f lit'.' .-n a li'Jit>lii|. Iia^ t.. .Iiai: liiin^. If Wa.k m lli-' >avvl, 
 aii.l ;..! 'la' in..in. in \" -i^" <i|' lii- M'"'^' '"' "•■^'' i'it"i H'''' '""• 
 
 |;u,,nin'_ uj. ■ ■ . i ;i..' N.-f San.l, vnIi'H tli.' -k.t.li.'s a..' .•..n.pl.l.'.l. m 
 li,,l,. aM.I.' tiMin til.' .'.'iilral .liaiin.l. «.■ .■.•m.' in ahuiii lu" mil.- t.. tl..' 
 N.,1,- l.ii..\. a l.i'_' l...l.li;.L.' -•l'.l"t paint. .I l.ia.k an. I vsliil-' in v.iti.al -liip.'>. 
 j.n.l margin- tli-- .-Mliu.' .'.!■_'.' ..f tli.' .Ian,-. i.ai> s.n.ll.unk in tl.i^ .lii.'.l i-n 
 S.im.' t\N- mil- III..1.'. -ailin- li::l.l!\ l"f..i.' tli.' ti.l.'. Liin'-'- n> ..i. t.. a 
 ,1 iM.i.l.iii',' ma-, tl..' .I.rikin I \. .li tii.-ni-li.'.l Immh it- n.M m i-lil-nr 
 
 M'.'.lU 
 
 ll\ Ill-ill'^ I 
 
 i.'iin 
 
 t..l 1. 
 
 a.'K ami 
 
 \\) 'Ic in altciiial.' (■l..'i|iH'i .. a 
 
 n.l »i\in'_' t.> 
 
 .1.1. w tl..' .ntiai. 
 
 t(i till' .l.nkii. Swaii'liwav. u 
 
 liicli ti.n.l- ii.iiii.l -.iiiili- 
 
 ^tuanl ..n 'in l.tl. -" ■'!- 
 
 til t'liiiii a -III 
 
 lit iiil f.ir \ 
 
 i>^ii- .. 
 
 t' -mall liiii.li'ii 
 
 iM t 
 
 h.' tV.'i|ii.nl..l tia.'k li.lw.'.n tl..' 'i'liam.'- an.l tl..' M.'.l\\a>. 'I 
 
 l.'V 
 
 II'.' ii.iaiiit .i.it 
 
 «t \\ 1-.' i.a\ i''ati.in. a 
 
 -.iftl,.- wav J, la.'.'-, til.'-.' Iia.'k lai..- ..r in.'j.ilar l.\-patl.- ..f 
 tV, I't.'.l .ii.K l'\ rn:l.t >l.rimp. T- >>\ li.aw l.aiLi.'- . an.l 
 
 til.' .I.i.kin Suat.'l.wav i-' an .'M'.ll.iit .'X.iiiip 
 
 ,1 ill., w li.il.' .'Ill imi- ii.'lai.'.l 
 
/ 
 
 siiri'i'i:) \.\i> Tin .\iii;i: a; 
 
 chlMM. A, w.. ,;ii| .|i,\M, it iMii.liiiv lfl/il\ ImI till' Miilw.lV, tlir \;|^I .||\ 
 
 '"*'|''i • III'' N"i'' SiiimI li-i-. oil mil' I. 'It liki' ,uiiir |ii|o|. \\( i'. '^ liiirk 
 
 in il Inll'^f |.H\ rillAc (Villi! llii' -.III I'.'iri' iil' llir w.iti 
 
 I . nil mil' 'hi , '.iitlici' 
 
 liiiiii' jiiiil ii:iri'.i\\ i^l.'ihil i.r -.Mill, thr .li'iikiii. ;iUci v,,\,-u : ,il lii'.;l: liilc, 
 tllitll.y:ll i|l\ ,'it till- I lili, liiMllnU till' ,|r|i,|,| liiiijiilr I'liiiliiirl uilli it^ ^licUili'i' 
 
 i 
 
 iM 
 
 ■"J''- JiiJIHIIP li|,lili ^^ - 
 
 -** 
 
 JLJ/k il 
 
 I Ml II \MV >t\ til lltt U 
 
 siili's , uhilc t'liillii'i' Mil till' (ii.'iiii Sjiil. ;i li.tiik III' iiiinl .iinl --.uhI idnji'i't in^' 
 
 tVi'lll till' Ulr III' lil';iili into till' llllili'il r>tll,'irv III' till' t\Mi l'i\t'l'-i. lllliKist 
 .stiilc till' \ii'\\ tiiw.'inl- till' Ki'liti^li riiiiNt hiiUli thr li.'lll'i.u >r,'| j.iiir Irt't 
 lii'lWi'i'll llli'^i' r;i|ii-. mill i>l;iliiU nl' sliit'lillU' >*itl|i|, ;i llllliiliil' iif li;il';^r^. witll 
 W.lllll tiliiUll -.'liU >rt III ill,' luTi'/i'. ,'IImI ijlLlillt ilrNJct'S |iN!'l|ti'i| nil tlli'll' 
 
 iii.'iiii >.iiU, ;iii' liiiriviiiu with >iir|i -.iiiTij ;i^ |||,\ I'mi |.,.>t I'liiiiinaiiil tnuiinl 
 till' |iiilt III' iliii'lli'^ti'l- A '-tr.'ili-r .'iliii illv.'irv |iir|llic ;iltuyi't ln'l'. \rt 
 
 umiili'l rillls i'li;il';irtrl i^tir nl' tllr Tllillllr^ i's|i|;il\. with i|s I'liiHos |i||i> 
 III' ilr\ ■.iiiiilli.'iiik. .'iiiil it- ;ill |ii'i Milling lit'i' III' iiliii|iiitiiii-~ -lii|i|iiii^'. 
 
 I'll''!"' ■•Ill' li'W -lii|i-, iiiniv ,'ii|iiiir,'ilii\ lilti'il till' tlirir nwn |),ii ticiil.ir 
 
 llii'lli' ill 'I iilliilil\ 111' till' -r.l lli.'ili |||i'-i' >;illlr ri illlllli ii I ii ill-, iiliil li,'|||i|v 
 
 lull lllllrll ili'>|ii>i'i| li.'ir-i'-. Ill I Inir rliii-rli lilii' ||ir\ li.'iM' ViT\ llr.lllv l'i',ii'||, ■ij 
 |H'I riTtiiill, 'l"lli'\ Clll -11 ,'|||\ w lii'iv ;i||i| ,|,i ;ili\ ihiiiM, II,. IV 111! till' liiWi'l- I'lvrr, 
 
 I'liiwili'il \villi >ti'iiiiii'i- ,'iiiil lii'^ -lii|i>, .'ill rrii--iii'^- .'iinl ri'i'inssin.^ mic 
 
 illliillli l'- riilll-i' nil |inlt nl' -t .1 1 I in;i n | |;irk tllr li\r!iillL; ikl\. till' i!i'>|iisri| 
 liill'UV- -:lil ;ilnii^ lllli-ii||i'il'lii'i||\ ,'it tliril- nWll rVrll |>;irr. litllr ri'n'M nici 1 
 li\ :ill\linil\ r!>i'. Ml ,'ll\\;i\s lll.lll.'iuill'^ In n illlc i Hit nl' i| ;il| iplitr llllill jinci |, 
 *>ll ill'' llplii'l' li\i'l' llli'\ 11111 nil, rr'^.'inllr--, nt' i il wt .irlr- nl' liliil-v- till tlirV 
 
^, 
 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 ^0 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 11.25 
 
 U^ Bii 122 
 
 S fca 12.0 
 
 ;;f ^ !■■■ 
 
 |U.|IA 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 HioiDgraphic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 33 WIST MAIN STMET 
 
 WiBSTEIt,N.Y. MSSO 
 
 (716)a72-4S03 
 

 ^ 
 
 i 
 
 4^ 
 
58 
 
 Tin: rin.M. riiAMf.s. 
 
 n,v close upon the von juors. m.mI tl.on. at a n.on.oufs ..oti.v. .low,, jroos 
 tho mast to pass undo,- tho a,rl,cs. a.,.l as soo„ as tl.o Ini,!-,' is tai,ly 
 passcl tho o,vw hoavo up tl,o hoavy .iioa." a,,..i,. with tho .uM-oa,.i„- wiiuMass. 
 wl,ilo tho l.a,-o sails o„ upo„ ho,- wav ouoo „,o,o. appa,o„tly „o,„. the 
 wo,-so for hoi- su.hlon oollapso. thou-h ho,- ,„ast stau.ls at a„ a„-lo of 4r,° 
 an.l ho.- ,-i^-i,,^' a.ul sails, a tlappi,,- ,„ass of ,a„^lo.l ooufusi.m. oovo,- au.l 
 eueu.ulHM- tho xvh,.lo vossrl. As fo,- piot,„-os.,uo,u.ss. ..f .•..„,so tho,-.- is „..thi„.i; 
 liko thoin o>. tho wh..lo ,-ivo,-. thoi,- l.,-i.-k-,-.-.l ..,- .la,-k I.,onv„ sails a,..l Inw 
 l.laok hulls soo„, as if thoy ha.l l.oo,, iuv.-uto.l .m pu,-posr just t.. .uiv.' » 
 little l.,-i-ht oolou,- a„.l otVeotiv.- .-.mtiast fo,- tho i„a,i„." pai„to,-s a.tistio 
 uoeessities. Of late yoa,-s. t..... tho l.a,--.'s have Ih-u„ tu ,!.. a litth- ..„ 
 theii- .)w„ aoo..u,it. with tlu' .-oUM-iuus .h-si,-.- t.. i,„pi-..vo th.i,- ow„ |H',-s..i,al 
 appearaueo. The i„u.-h-talko.l-of - p,-..j:,-ess ..f .l.HMnativ.- a,-t " has filt.',-o.l 
 .h)w„ ove„ to the level ..f l,a,-,iros. S.m,.- of '.l,.-,,, :i.l.l a .la,-k !.,•..« „ lop- 
 sail t.. thoi,- native i-usty ,o.l ; ..th.-,-s sti.-k ..„ a few st,ip.-s ..f .-ol..u,- lik.- 
 
 Me.litoi-ianea,i latoous. ..,- Lea,- a o,-ost ..,- .levi.-.- n„ th.-i,- sails lik.- th 
 
 that is just n..w hea.li,,,-; t..wa,.ls us .h.wi. th.- .-.iitial la,i.- ..f th.- .I.-,iki,. 
 Swatehway. She is the Im-irUi ..f ll..ehestei-. ati.l si,,- .•a,Tios th.- a,.ei.-ut 
 Kentish einl.leni of tho Whit.- Il..,se l...l.lly .-nil.la/.on.-.l .'„ h.-,- .-h...-nlale- 
 col..u,-e.l eanvas. What a .-u,i..us link with th.- i-ast, that ..i.l h.ath.-n 
 Teutonio t..ken thus pi-..u.lly .lisplaye.l „p..ii th.- .la,k saiU ..f a ,ii.m1.-,-,i 
 everyday Kentish l.a,-^'e : K..,- th.- Whit.- llmse was th.- I.an,..-,- ..f tin- 
 .lutes an.l An-jL-s in th.i,- p,iniitive lin,iie l.y th.- ni..utlis ..f th.- Kll..-. 
 as it still is .if the lla,i..ve,- an.l Hrunswiek whenc- th.-ii' l..n^'-ships saile.l. 
 It was h,-..ught to Kent in tlu- th,.-.- k.-.-ls ..f n.-n,-.'ist a,i.| n..,sa. wh.ise 
 names a,e hut ..LI Kn.Lflish f..,- th.- stalli..,, an.l the niai.- , a,pl it \\\\> 
 ,-emaine.l the synihul ..f K.-nt f,<.m that .lay ..nwa,il t.. this, Wheivve,- th.' 
 inti-usiv." An.^lo o,- Saxon stt f.i.>t in Miitai,,. tin- Whit.- Hoise of th.- Siesw ick 
 mat-shlan.ls fo,iiie.l tli.- visihlo nie,m-,it.. of his .-on.pi.-st ; an.l .v.ii n.>w th.- 
 White lliMses, eut into th.- ehalk tl.iwiis <.f Wanla^^.- a,i.l W.stliu,y, ,iia,k 
 tho vati.ius staj.'.-s of his t,iuniplial a<iva,i.-o a^'ai,ist the tv.-,- ret,eati,i^^ 
 West.-,n IJfitons. As t.i th.- name Invicta. that is the i,ii,iio,Mo,iai ,iiotto 
 un.h-,-n.-ath tho K.-,itish .-oat-of a,-ms to this .lay an.l when .1,1.- iv,iie,nlK-is 
 that Kot-liestf,- was 1o,i.l' the i-apital of tin- W.st K.iil kiiiiT'lom. ami is 
 
 . 
 
SllKPVKY AXh Tin: NOIIK. 
 
 r^[) 
 
 still the ratlu'dnil city of the Wi-st Kentish bishop and the site of the 
 pt'iit West Kentish easth', theie is a peeiiliar titness in name and enihletn, 
 which throws a liah> of poetry even around that very prosaic hut not 
 unpictorial object, a connnon coaHtinf(-har<,'e. 
 
 The low Hat land to westward, the Isle of fJrain, thouj,'h now an island 
 only in name, since the marshes at its western end have lieen drained and 
 reclaimed, was lonj,' one of the most lonely and isolated spots alony the 
 whole front of the jireat river. Indeed, tlie contrast between the Itusy 
 waterway in midstream and the deserted marshy Hats and islands that 
 bound it on either side is often extremely curious and weird in its sudden 
 transitions. The river seems part of the full tide of bustling modern 
 commercial life ; but the swampy islets and peinnsulas on its bank, separated 
 from the main lines of internal roads and communications by long and 
 winding creeks or seri)entine bays, and often approached only by row-l)oats 
 which land the visitttr on a muildy beach knee-deep in ooze and slush, 
 .seem as though they had been utterly left behind and stranded by the 
 advance of the outer world and given over only to a few dazed-looking 
 sIhh'P and mewing sea-binls. (^>uite lately, however, the South Eastern 
 llailway has driven a fresh line from Gravesend, through the neglected and 
 forgotten Hundred of Hoo, to the extreme point of the Isle of (irain, wlieie 
 it has ojjened a brand-new station and harbour, digidtied with the too loyal 
 name of Port Victoria. A steam ferry makes the passage acro.ss the mouth 
 of the Medway, here about a mile and a half wide, to the opposite piers of 
 Sheerni-ss. Still, even since the snorting engine has invailed its marshy 
 tliits, the Isle of drain retains a very old-w(uld and sleepy h)ok ; innumerable 
 sheep, iauidling together from the sea breeze, graze everywhere upon its 
 rich saU-maish pasturage, and the few houses that give shelter to farmers 
 and shepherds aiv maiidy scattered alH)ut singly among the low-lying but 
 prosperous hvels. The oidy conspicuous building in the islanil is the little 
 poverty-stricken church of St. .James's, standing all by itself on a slight 
 jtatch of rising ground, in the very teeth of the east wind, and iM)inted out 
 to strangers as a curiosity because its exposed situation couipels it to have 
 the unusual protection of shutteis to its windows. A round martello tower 
 looms picture.scjuely out to sea upon an island of santlbank, and a fort on 
 
(K) 
 
 rilF. Tllt.M. TIIAMF.S. 
 
 tlu' iH'iU-li lit'Ips to «iiK"U«l llu' iMitramr of (li«> Tliaiiu's i\ii<l Mfilwa.v JVoiii 
 any tutmv Van Tioiiips or |).' liiiyttis, Col.l HaHn.ur Hani, a will-known 
 soa-niark on tin- north t-ntl of tlu' island. kiT|)s in its name a cnrious solitary 
 ivlii- of an otluTwisc for-j;otttn Honian orini>ati»)n. Tlu' litlt- of Cold llarlionr. 
 given in tnany parts of Kntiland to lonely farmhouses or cottages, ;;enerally 
 marks the site of an old and rained l\oman villa. The mediaval traveller, 
 journeyinjr alon<i the great trunk lines of the lloman roads, founti shelter 
 in the hare and hlaekened walls of the Italian eolonists, hurnt and destroyed 
 l>y the heathen Saxon invaders ; Imt he had to light his own tire and eook 
 the provisions he had Wrought along with him. so he ga\e to these inhospitalile 
 pienieking hostelries the ehilly name of CoM Harhours. 
 
 The loll.' meanderiny; inlet that ni-arlv severs the Isle of drain from the 
 niaiidand of the Hundred of Moo is known as Vantlet Creek ; and at its 
 mottth. on the eastern sidi'. stands London Stt»ne. one of the marks whieh 
 for many centuries liounded the jurisdietion of the Lord Mayoi- of London 
 as "conservator of the river Thames." I'.etween Leigh ami Southend, on 
 the opposite or K.ssex eoast. exactly facing this Kentish maik. stands another 
 similar oltelisk. also known as London Stone, lait more |iopularly called the 
 Crowstone ; and a straight line drawn Ketween them was the furthest out- 
 ward limit of the mayor's conservatorship t'rom the e;iiliest times till |s.')!». 
 A third London Stone stands mar the mouldering ruins of Coekham Koit 
 on the Metlwiiy. and liears two in.seriptions : on tin- east side, •(hmI 
 Preserve the City of Lomlon. 12)t4." and on the north, • i>rass Cro>l(y. Ks(| . 
 Lord Mayor, 1771." These old landmarks are interesting in their way, as 
 .showing how fully the citizens of London leco^nised the impoi t.ince of the 
 river Thames as the highway which gave their city e n.ition.il an<l 
 
 connnercial imp<»rtance. Indeed, from the days of tin tarly i'ort-reeves 
 onward — that was the significant name of the Sj-.aiu otlicei- who preceded 
 the Lord Mayors of I'lantageiiet times-till the a^e of railways, that cle.ir 
 truth was never for a moment forgottt-n : it is in very mo<lern times only 
 that jK'ople have hegun to overlook the once olixious fact that the Very 
 existence of London town is wholly <lue to Th.'inus river. 
 
 The Thames conservancy forme<l part of the duties or privihges of the 
 Mayor of London, or his preilecessijr the I'ort-reevi-, at lea.st from the days 
 
 
 } 
 
/ 
 
/ 
 
 '■%■'' 
 
 \ 
 
 i 
 
 A 
 
/ 
 
 siir.i'pHY wit rut: soiih 
 
 *ii 
 
 III" Willi.iiii the ('•iiHUit ri»r »»ii\viir»l. lU fliiirtfr *\\' llnirv \'II,. priiiti'd l»y 
 ('■•ixtitii. the Lord Mnynr niiil Cniiiiiiniialty wiiv dftiiiitflv iippoiiitrd liailifls or 
 Coiisfrviiloi.s nf till- 'lliaiiu's rioni Staim-n lliidjif to Niiiitlft Civi-k, as wt-ll 
 as i.f III.- liv.r Mcdway. Tlit'sc powrrs tlicv rxt-ivisfd until IH."}!*, when 
 the 'I'lianifs ('onscivancy Hoard was constitiitfd as a fonipioniisc Ix'twcfn tin- 
 City uf London and tlic Crown (tlit- latter liavin;,' laid claim to tin- spacf 
 lift ween tidf-niarks on tin- forfsliori' of the liver), and tin" lioundarifs of 
 the new power remained tiie same, from Staines to a line drawn Letweeii 
 Vantlet Creek and the Ciowst(»ne (tpposite Canvey Island. A later Act 
 extended the western limit from Staines to Ciirklade on the upper 
 liver. 
 
 At tlie outlet of Yaiitlet Creek, a shallow sandliank, named Vantlet 
 Flats, runs out into the river for u mile and a half, and from its midst 
 nseil once to rise another of the desolate coa.st eyots. known as Vantlet 
 Island, a festerinj,' imiss of rich lirown mud and lu.Miriaiit salt-mar.sh 
 vef^etation, now entirely washed away. An old mortar-lioat. with a house 
 iuiilt like l'e^;,'oty's in her deserted forecastle and on her poor oM poop, 
 has iteeii turned here into a coa.st^Miard station, and hauled with her nose 
 up in the tall marsh j^rass. All around these loiij; creeks and l»ack- 
 waters of the lower river, indeed, the aspect of living nature is everywhere 
 very i.eculiar aiul extraordinary, redolent as it were of the .salt Itrine that 
 hlows with the prevalent east wind from the (ierman Ocean over the low flat 
 expanses of marshy meadow and misty swamp. Even the grasses are special 
 wirv seasid types; the weeds are congeners of those dustydooking kalis 
 that overgrow the sandy outskirts of the African or Syrian de.serts ; and the 
 world at large wears a grey, elHorescent. saline character, found nowhere elae 
 .save on these curious patches of inaiine moorland, or on the long Heets and 
 haafs and lagoons of the Southern Baltic or the Arctic seas. It i.s almost 
 impossihle to helieve we are standing so close to the main line of modern 
 British commerce and communications ; these winding arms and lonely eyots 
 are so utterly and completely isolated that they seem to belong to somo 
 other and totally dillerent order of things from the age of steamships and 
 telegraphs and electric light.s. They might almost he patches of Finnish 
 tundra or of Siherian morass, tumbled ilown unconsciously and incontinently 
 
/ 
 
 tiV 
 
 77/ a; rin\i. riiwity. 
 
 IwsiiK- til.' I.usy Iii-liwnv ..f th.' worM's tra.l.'. II. iv. ,is l..f..r.', tli iiti;i>t 
 
 iMtss.vii 111.- .vM-HflrHs iifV aii.l ii.lisily ..f lli.' K"''i»t ris.-r .IimiiimI, aii.l lli.' 
 iittor \o>\ I..iifs.niii'iu"ss ..<■ its suiT..»iii.liii^' si.lr .-uts. is |m rf.fllv xu.l.l.ii iiii.l 
 aliii.ist ii|.|.alliii>,' ill its vivi.l sin^Milaiit.v. Iii.l.v.l. s.. v.i> iviih.t.' aii.l 
 iua.v.ssil.|,- aiv many ..f tli.' isl.-ts .'lui.ni.-.-.l l.y iv. -111 rant anus ..I' lli.' s.a 
 ar..iiii.l 111.' W.-st Swal.' ami llu- .jiiiifti..ii .'f tli.- 'riiaiiL's aii.l M.'.lway. tliat 
 it is siii.l iii.'ii ill liai-.s acliially ;;.» .l««wii an. I cut tli.- lia> .01 s..iii.- .•!' 
 tlit'iii \\illi..iil any anlli..risati..ii rn.ni tin- ..win is. and >.l with iHil'.-.t 
 ini|»iiiiity. I'lraiis.- tluiv is al.s..|ut.ly n..l».Hly tinir !.• iiil.Tl'.r.' witli ..r 
 in any way |.ivvi'nt tlu'iii. lii.-mlil.K' as siuli a I'aft s..uii.ls in in. ..I. in 
 Knju'laml t.. lli. .so wli.. Iiav.- wvwv niiisnl imi..ii^; tin- inlii.at.' minor 
 waltrways ..f tin- Lowi-r Tlianu-s l.asin. it is |K'ii.'.lly .■..mpivluiisil.l.' |.. 
 I'Vfry.im- wim has i-wr coast. -.I in ami out of their l..n^' ami tii.lli'!W 
 (livi'ijii'iit fhaniu'ls. 
 
 Ill its (iwii way tlii' salt-mafsh v«';:ttati..n forms one of lli.- most 
 cx.iuisite ami .•haracteristic ft-atuivs of the ti.lal Tliaim-s. It is n.>l .v.ry 
 v\y, to 1.C sure, that .-an sn- h.-aiity in tli.'s.- yr.at >liiiiiii;.' acii.l llals of 
 swamp ami inmll.ank. T.» tin- |K.|tular ami unr.-^'.n.iat.- miii.l at l.a>t. 
 they an- diritU-dly hari-, dreary, wearisoim-. and r.-|..ii.-iit. Ami y.t, if one 
 has the trick to se.- it, there is jreiiuine lieaiity of a \.-iy hi;jli aii.l .lisiin.t 
 or.ler in the lon-jr K-v.-l stit-tcht-s of o.iz.- ami inarshlaml that l.ouml the 
 moiioton.ius tidal reaches of tin- Lower Thames, (ireat .lyk.-s ..f s..ft l.r..wn 
 mud, .(pah-scent and -:litt.-rinj; in th.- sunshine, iiil.-isi-ct the jihits ..f rank 
 vejretation .-v.ry li.-iv and there with tln-ir interlacing arms, ami l»y th.-ir 
 si.l.-, if you lo..k clos.-iy int.. the mass, a w..iiderfiil iH-aiitifiil salt-marsh Ih.rji 
 jrrows luxuriantly in profiis.- w.-alth of lush j:reen. or p;d.- hoary whit.-, ..r 
 delicate lilue. ..r lirilliaiit crimson. On th.- vi-ry .-.Iji.- of ih.- .lyk.-s llu- 
 KUCcuh-nt leaves ami tall stems of the sea-asl.-r ris»- lik»- a wall at.ov.- the 
 sheer precijiice <»f mal.Mlor.tus 00/e ; aWove, its llow.-rs expaml in l.i;.; Iiuss.-s 
 of lilac- hlooiii. rayed like a Michaelmas daisy f.>r th«- most pail, Imt some- 
 times (ami .-sp(-cially on these Thames-side marsh islands) with th.- lilac 
 rays entirely suppressed, w. that the whole lilossom seems rcluc.-d to a mere 
 ragged liundle of yellow disk-lluiets, lik.- a ;,Mgantic groumlsel. lU its side 
 the golden sea-wormwood, prettiest of our Kiiy;lish urtemisias, spreads its 
 
/ 
 
 siiHi'i'HV \.\h rut: smn:. 
 
 )i;i 
 
 piili' |Ni\vtlt'i'\ li'iivt's, s|H'cklf*l with tliMii' likr tliusu <>(' huj^i! or |)iii'sliiiif, iiiitl 
 HiH'iilH tilt' iit'i;j;lilHMii'lin<M| with its stniii^ |)Uii;;*>iit iirniimtif |HTt'iiiiif, Witliin 
 the ishlllils II t'fW siirf|i, likf those which |iroiliir*> the riiliioiis pir mi/i- 
 iiiiittoii of tlif ('iilviiilos, hrowst' hi/ilv on the conrsr iiiiiiitiini' trusses iiikI 
 
 Ntt'iii;;,v s\«'i-ils thtit iiloiic ciiii lhri\<> iiimIcI' th<- iiitlui-ii< t' thr lM-in«>-hiih'ii 
 
 lti«'t'Z«'. lint' ami tlicn'. in ii tlt'|irfssion iit'iir tlif tith- tilli'tl tlitcht's, pati-ht's 
 of iii'iiiit it'll! wliitf sciiiA v-^'iiiss tx|iiiiiil tlifir lovtlv snowv pftiils — Coi' if fVtT 
 II Ik'ii lit it'll! plant liiul faiisi- to foiiiplaiii of its <-oiiiiim>ii Knjilish iiaiiit', wiirvv- 
 jiiass is that ill iisfd and iinofl't'inlinj; spcfifs. It ant its popular titlf from 
 iitilitarian sailors, who havf foiinil it a <,'ootl spffilic a-iiiiiist sfiirvy in 
 Arctic or lii;;h northern vova;;cs, lifcaiisc it ;;rows in colder cliniatt'H than 
 almost aiiv other lierli which can he eaten Ity man as a salad or ve^retalilo ; 
 liiit its liiilliant masses of milk-white lilossom surely tleserve a hetter ami an 
 apter popular name. 'I'lieii there is the rich sea-pink, the dainty maritime 
 
 hladder-campi the crimson Idite. ami the t'X(|iiisite ^.(lasswort, ftirininjf 
 
 all to;,'etlier such a ;,'roiip of coastwise hlossomin;;' plants as for wealth of 
 colour and variety of interest cannot perhaps he et|ualU'tl in the whole 
 ran;,'e of the Urilish Islands. To tho.se who have not r\f to .see, the tidal 
 islets may he hare ami iiionotoiioiis intleetl, hut to the trainetl ami 
 sympathetic vision liotli t>f the hotanist antl the artist they are wonderful 
 untrammelled ;;arilens of the stran<,'est antl rarest heaiitiful gifts fitmi tho 
 all-yicltling, untutored, harvestle,s.s .sea. 
 
/ 
 
 .«•. 
 
 jLL— ^—<AiX.-„i 1 k 
 
 • t « II) M II 
 
 ( IIAITKl: VI 
 
 lANTI.KT CllKKK iimkcs n r.inv.iiinit >|M.t l.i lir l'.\ for !i 
 iii;.'lit, nut III' i!m<.'c nf (liMMtiiir.ul Imin tlir luiiw ^wtH 
 tli.it runs u|i flir fuiiiul sliii|M'<l cliiiiinfl uf Si i Hctdi, as 
 the ii.intiwcr >tii-l<li <•!' ri\«f i^ riilltil ImIwiiii Murkiuy; 
 aiiil tin- Nnif lii:lits|ii|i, its imnn' Ikmii;; ;.'i\«'li, of nmix'. 
 tVuih the |M.int ot" \ir\v nt" all (lUtwanl-liniiinl \.'>mI. wliirli li.iv l'..i- tlif tii^t 
 tiiiif a^ it is t<iWf.| nil its i-iMnniiiinus r.iur^r .li.wii stiraiii liit> u|miii aiiuliiiiy: 
 tlial fnr lnvailtli ami nioiniiir>s can lie lairl.v ili'snilM-.l a> tin- s.a. rv.ii li\ 
 tiir utinust >tivt.-li nf luaiitiiuf <uurt«>\. Hani liv. a liai-f i- l..,nliii': willi 
 c. .kit -sli.lU fni- -,:i\.lliiii: til.' |iatli> nl' IIk' l."ii.loii |iaik- 'I'lif k.fii .l.ar 
 wind lij.iws >tiai;:lit iVuiu tlir oii.ii (i.-nuan (»c<aii arm., tlir >alt niarslics. 
 :iii<| till' juv i>\' tlif sea ni.fts u. Iinj.liy in tlic fare a. \\c tuiii uiir Imw 
 (■a>t\vai(l ai^ain inuial tlif s|i(.t wlnir "ii.c .tnotl Naiitl.t Ulaml. Sn 
 wr ii,. u|i linv. notliin-: Intli. ami tiiriiiii'.' in t<i slf.|., uml«T sli.lt. r 
 uf tlif Inw liank tniiiicl \n .'astwaril !•> tli.- niu.ltlats ..f tin- is!.' .if 
 
 (iraiii. w.- start mxt in.irninL: t.i .'XpLnv liir l.'ii;; >>trai;L;lit .lia I that 
 
 «i|t.iis li-lit in tV.iiit .if us in ilini i..!>|MMli\.. ami t.. .-.last aiimn;; 
 tlic lazy cnrks .if tlic <i).|i.i..it.' Kss.\ .Imif, ai.nm.l the tntlU'ss liaiiks ..f 
 Ij.ilv lla\.ii. ami tlit- ni.-amlcriim «iyk.'^ .if ('aii\f\ l-laml. 
 
 'I'll.' ciiast to wot waul, wliiii wi- (liit|Hn'.l aiK-li.n la>t ni^lit insi.lc tlif 
 
/ 
 
 I 
 
 ShW itt:.\rii, „. 
 
 tmtmiil liiviik\viif..r of Vmitl.-t f^lmi.I. rnnMHt.-.l iA' a |„ii,,^ miil hh.n.l .lev 
 
 iMIik, tlir ItlMh.- SiiimI, i.iirliiliy liiiH' WllV iliTnss tlir livtf hi its ^rni.|i|;il 
 "InlM-, ;iimI iiiiiiIximI (i|,>|i;r i|^ ,,„,i,.,, |,,„i;,|, |,v „ ^,,,.j,.^ ,,,• ,.,,„i,|i^,„„, |,jy. 
 ••I."'-I< iHinvs I'.iit uhrii w,. i-vt ..lit int.. til.' iiiiiiii rlitiiihfl ii;-niii lliis 
 
 "'"-• ''"■ •''''• '^ I'i.yl' "ihI iIm- liv.T litis l.ina.i.-ii.'.j ..iit un.v hi.mv t.> 
 
 Iwi.v its ..ijoiiml Mi.ldi. th.' wIh.I,. .,r tli.. |!lvili.. Wwv^ now .•..v.t.-.I IV 
 
 '''"' '" '''"' ''^ ""• ••"'^•' •"« NM't'T. IimI I. til.- trl.-ks tliiit till- iii.M.i, |,|,.vh 
 
 lis ill lliis hiiitt.T iiiii..iiL; III.- s|i.,,i|s tiii.l ..iisfs ..f ||i.> L.iw.T Thiiliu's lire 
 iv.illy .|llil.' siii|,|isiii,n lit tilii.-s, i;,r the till.' s.. lllti'llv all.'ls the I.M.k of 
 tliiii;'s ill -.ii.-iiil that ..II.' f....|s almost lik.- jiaimi .MiiiicliaiiHcii .m the 
 riiinniis ...•.•iisioii uli.'ii li.' w.'iit t.> n|.','|. ..II a Kiissiaii |>lain aft.T l.viii- his 
 Im.Is.' t.. ii twii- ill th.' siH.w, aial \\..k.' ii|. in tli.' ii.i.lsl ..f a silM.-h tliaw 
 ii.'vt iii..iiiiii- to tiii.l liiiiis,'|f ill III,, stivi't of a villajiv aii<l his I'aitht'ul 
 
 .st.'.'.l Niis|..'ii.|i'.| hi-h ..N.'ih.'a.l l.y til.' Iniill.' fVoiii the very vai f tli.' 
 
 iM'i,Lrlil»oiiiiiiM st.'.'|.l.' Ilv.'ii so. .III.' iiia.v turn int r's liiink in tli.' niiilst 
 
 "'I' ii iiaiTow .'ivik, -ill roiin.l l.y lii'^h l.ani.T walls ..f niii.l which s|.iva.l 
 out linu.rwi.s.' .m .'v.'iy si.h' int.. intricati' .Ii visions, ami awak.- lU'xt .lay 
 lloiiliny ill th.' .'Xii.'t ...ntiv ..f n s.-.-min^ly lMMin.ll.'s.s and placi.l lak.', on 
 whos.' .listaiit niaiHiii. som,. tiv,. ,„i|,.s ,,t| a 111111 snspi.'ion ..t* low j-iassy 
 l.anks .'an jiisl l..< .l.'t.'.'|..,| |,y ||„, ,.x|M.|i..n.'.'.| .'v... Tlit- .'fr.'ct of th.'sc 
 Mi.l.l.'ii liaiisilioiis is .|,'.'i,|,.,||y |,.'i'|,|,.Nin,i.. anil a iiian n.'cds to know the 
 -III.' .lianiitls of th.' Thani.'s l.y |.,iic.' aninaiiitaiicc ln-foic lu' .-an contidcntlv 
 (rust hiiiis.'lf 1.. tiiHl his way al...iit th.'iii l.y tlu' v\v aloiio without the 
 n.'.'.|fiil assistiin.-.' of .'harts an.l sailin.L;- diivftioiis. What s.'fuis at one time 
 
 ii tortuous riser, windin- in imd ..nt in tiniious t'sscs hctwi't'ii hij-ii iniid- 
 
 I'aiiks. st'.'iiis at anoth.'r a l.roa.l iii.'iv of o|.(.|| water dotted ..ver here ami 
 theiv with huiiii.y siimly ey.,ts. .,r still later, assumes the ^.uise of a st..riiiy 
 sen, iiiil.rokeii anywlu'iv sjiv.' l.y a few .laiieiiij;- laioys that mark the sites 
 of th.' now .'ii-ulf.'.l aii.l invisii.l,' islamls. It is one .•ontinn..us trans- 
 formation s.,'!,.' ..f nature's ow akin- shiftin- at h'ast Www tinuv over in 
 
 th.' twenty lour hours. 
 
 The south.'rn ..r Kentish si.h' ..f Sea jf.'ii.'li is formed l.y the .'.lastdine 
 of that famous l.ut till lat.'ly almost fo|M.,tteii region, the Hundred of Hoc. 
 Se.'U from the river, this .lesolale out-of-tlu'-world tract divi.le.i itself 
 
/ 
 
 66 
 
 77/ /; riit.M. rn\Mi:s. 
 
 ii;itm;.lly int.. tliivc 1;.>.t> nr l.,.ii/..M-. v.u-h nur Ivin- iMliiii.l ll tl.rr in 
 
 mv.lin.Lr iuTsi..vtivr. :mhI all f.hlii.u tlinmul. tli.' .lim .Irivin- m\>\ nf tli.> 
 
 TImiiics .■stiiarv ii.tn a >iiii:l.' uwuly aii.l iii.liMin.'i |.i.'tmv. In th.' f.-n- 
 
 uinmi.l tl.c ulist.'iiinu aii.l ^liiimn.rin- ri.l-v "f ill.' I'.luli.' Saii.l iIm.. liiuli 
 
 an.l .Irv fn.m \\\v main .-liann.l at l..vv ti.l.'. an.l Mivtcii.'^ with iittl.- 
 
 int.Tiii|.ti.in \\>v t.n ..r twrlv.^ mil.-. aL-iii: llif >li.ir.' lV..in ..|.|M.sit,' MncUin- 
 
 ti. l.,\.Mi.l til.' n...iitli ..f Vantl.'t ('n.lv, Al.i.'a-t ..f ll.-lv llav.'n, tli.- I.ank 
 
 fxtcnd-. liait'-way a(•l•.>s.^ tli-- \\li.>l.' ri\.'i-. ><> that tiic viNil.lc ln.a.ltli .>t' the 
 
 str.'am i> imm.'n^.lv nan.'w.'.l at l..\v wat.r. an.! .I.mlil.'.l airain uitli 
 
 w.Hi.l.'ifnl rai.i.lit> at half ti.i.'. 'I'lu' luiir Ma.'k l.ii..\s at .'.pial .liNlan.'.-s 
 
 mark th.> m.itli.'in limit <>\' th.' >an.ll.ank an.l k..'). lai-.' v.-i-.'U t.. tli.' 
 
 naviual.K' I'hann.'l !•> th.' K»i'\ >--'a->l. «»v.i- tii.' .'.1-.' ..f ih.' IHslh.' Saii.js 
 
 tilt' >.'f..iMl I'laiic lii'^in-.-a hiw tiat district. kn..\\n a^- th.' C.wlim; Mar-li.'-. 
 
 an.l liii'.llinu with it- >\\am|» all llii'^ iMirti.m .if th.' K.nti-h f..ast. t'l.Mii 
 
 tJiav.'X'ii.l to the 1-1.' .if (iraiii. Within an.l ii.'y.m.l tln'-c aLrn.'-ln'.'.'.lin'^- 
 
 tlat>. a-ain. tin' .'lialk .l.iw n> ..f H limly ri-.' a-ain-t the ui.'\ -ky lin.'. 
 
 I'l.iw nt'.l l<v .ifca-i.'iial >tti'|i!.'s, t.iwiT-. fai'iiih<>n>.'>. anil l.i'j ti'.'.-<. .'V.ry .m.' 
 
 .if wiii.-h i'^ a well kn.iwii •^.'a-niaik fm- >liiiis li.'aliim |iainfiill\ np ny .|.i\vn 
 
 tin- c.'ntial .-lianncl with .iiiU.'^ tack-; .itf th.' t<l'^i' .if the ti.l.' 
 
 'I'll.' Hiniili.'.l "if Unit i- a l.iw |i.nin>ula .ir t.niLrn.' .if lan.i .livi.liir^ fur 
 
 -..ini.' .li-laiic' the .--tnaiio <if lli»' Tham.'-i ami th.' M.-.l\\a\ ami tmni.ii 
 
 liv a >iili>iilin,Lr liacklimi.' nf chalk, with a In.ia.l Iniii nf inar-h ami -aml- 
 
 l.aiik. Tiic clialk-hill- ai.' a .IviiiL; ntf'-h.Hit fnuii th.' main li.h,'.' .if tin' 
 
 North h.iwii-. ami th.' |i.nin-iila a- a ulml.' i> iir.il.mu.'il lir>t in tli.' niar-li\ 
 
 li'V.U 'if tin- i-'i' lit tJrain ami aftciwar.U li.n.atli tin- -fa at lii'^li li.l.'. 
 
 in th.' .■mill'-- >n.'i-c— imi of -amlliaiik- whii-li tinally l.iniinal.- in th.' Imi^ 
 
 an.l nariiiw >nlini.'iL;.'il |iriim<intiir\ .if th.' Nnr.' It i- a .|.'-nlati' ili.aiy- 
 
 l.Mikiii'.^ -iiiii. \\liii-i- I'liarai'ti'ii-t i.> ai.' well .h'M'iili.il in th.- ulij Im-al 
 
 iliymi- : — 
 
 -lit; lliat rilUs int.. ilc. IIiiimIimI "I il«> 
 
 Fiiiils foVLT mill ;ij,'Uc and ilirt ..ii"". 
 
 Till viiv ifi'.'ntlv. imi.-.il. tin- mily way tn l:.-! inln tin' llnmlii'.l of IIum 
 wa- li\ til.' almri'^inal niilliini nf ri.liii;: nr .lii\iir..: i>\i'i- \fiy nimhlv 
 mail- nf ininiiliM- I'nn-ti-m'ti.in ; Imt of lat.' the railwa\ tn I'nit Ni'tmia 
 
/ 
 
 .VA'.I lit: AC II. 
 
 07 
 
 lias cut tlir<>ii<r|i tlic lu'Jirt of tin- distiict, and Hint Is now wakeiR-d from 
 its aiicii'iit isolati(»ii to find itself part of tli. new main road to SliL'crneH.s 
 and tin- Flnsliinj^ steameM. 
 
 As \vc mast slowlv tt'i- ij,' "ir tint slioic — our yawl can lie in close 
 over tlie lilytlie Sanil with tl;c present ^'dal depth of water — the vari(»us 
 landmarks of this isolate<l tract rise one after another yradtmlly liefoie our 
 
 
 MIIHil.K M. Villi:. 
 
 eyes. Kirst of all eonu's the hiyli chalk-down near N'antlet Creek, with 
 its famous einmp of tall Iteicli-trees — "a nii^hty sii;n to them that sail the 
 seas"; and then heyond them the van'ue towei' of All Hallows Church, 
 Innminy- indistinctly through the jj;tildi'n haze ; and further still, the yioup 
 of scjittert'd liuildiiins known as the Aviary, clustei'etl on the slojie of the 
 low hillside. Opposite the Chapman liyht (which shows up dindy on the 
 Kssex shore) we come to the dismal levels of St. Marys Marsh, with St. 
 Mary's Church standing out against the leaden sky on the hill-top, and a 
 little more to the west, (^Mieen K'i/.aheth's Hall, a j;!(iomy-lookinn' Ituildinj'- 
 overhan,!j;in;^ the j,'rcen salt-marslu-s to which it trives its name. Cowling 
 
08 
 
 77//; /7/>.IA '///.I.I//>. 
 
 Marsl, n.nus luvt. will. ('owlii.,i; rl.u.rli. mIm. »h. a I.ill. to mark it in tl.r 
 iKU-k-nunul for tlu- sailors l.ri.oof. Tlu- Li.ir .•astir l.uil.lin,i,'s o,. tli.- i'.l.t,'o 
 of tl.o swa.. M-a .loul.k-towi-.v.l -atvho.is... I.uilt np into tlu- pnriiu-ts of a 
 .Modern fan..-a.v all that now ivn.ain of Cowlin- Castlo. onn> tl.c- 
 inincipal l.onu- of tlu« .u.vat l.ouso of rol.l.ain. in its Lost .lavs tl.r castU'. 
 a n.assivi. pilr. rn.l.attlnl hv .li.l.n .U- Col.l.an. in tl.o ivi-n of Hi.l.anI 11.. 
 foi-.no.l a s,,..a.v .'(....t smT..nn.if.l l.y a ...oat. will, a gatol...usc llankcl l.y 
 two liivula.' an.l n.a.-l.ici.lato.l towcs. wl.iol. aloi.o of all tl.o anoioi.t 
 a.vl.itooti..o now s.nvivo it was ho.o (hat thr Lolla.-.l loatlo.-. Si.- .lol.n 
 Ol.loastlo. who took tl.o titlo of Loi-.l Col.hani tn.ni his n.ar.iago with (Ik- 
 hoiivss of tl.o Cowlin.-r fan.ilv. sl.nt hin.solf up in his is..lato.l stron-hol.l 
 f.o.u AivhlMshi)!) Aiun.Urs apparito.-, an.l hol.lly rof.is.Ml to liston to tlio 
 oitati.... fo.- l.oivsy wl.ioh tl.o airhhisl.op had issm-.l a,i;ainst him in his 
 Kentish homo. Kvon aftoi- th." Lolla.-.! .-hamiiion had l..v.i l.nii.t in ohains 
 fur heresy, his wi.low. Lady r..l.hani. .■oi.iii.i.od to live in Cowlin- 
 C'a.stlo, whirl, h.-r doMViidants .uriipiod till after the |{o>torati.m. Tl.o 
 Imihlin'Ts woio. l.owevo.-. muoh .lama,-:e.l l.y Sir Thomas Wyatt during his 
 insurreetion in tl.o r.-ign of Maiy ; and the rnins have now at last lie.'., 
 onverted into a solid an.l s..l..stantial hut pi.Muivs.p..' niai.oi- faiinhouso. 
 little visililo from the wat.i's .'ilgo. 
 
 The village on th.' hill that hoi.nds the view as w.- near the .'iid of 
 Sea K.'ael. and apjiroaol. l-ow.-r Mope Point is f'litV at ilo... a place now 
 ali...»st utteilv m-gleetod, hut o.ie.' faninns in .-arly Knglisl. histoiy as the 
 town whole tin- Moreian kings, .lu.ing tl.o p.iiod of thoir long si.pivniaey, 
 heltl maiiv suecissive sy.iods of the Knglish Chuivh. It stamls o.i the 
 verv otlgo of the .-halk, overlooking the maishos, and tak.-s its nan.e tVoii. 
 tho inland .-litV foii.i.-d hy the fa.'o of th.- pr.cipitoiis hill oi. tl.o no.thorn 
 osearpn.ent. ruder its aiiiioiit na.no of t'l..vosho, it turns tip fi-.i|iiontly in 
 th.' early ecelesiji-stical annals of Kiiglainl, evor sin.-o th.' days of A.vhhishop 
 Th.odoio, th.- (Ji-ook mn.ik of Ta.s.is, who tiist .-.ally o.ga.ii>.d th.- Knglish 
 Cl.ureh. and who p.ovid.d fo.- an annual sy.iod of th.- Iiisl.ops and ol.-igy 
 at this now ro.nott- and soen.i.igly improhalile pla.'.-. K.-w pilgrims in those 
 .lavs evor peiietiato tho llunili-.-tl of Ijou as far as Clitf; hut thosi- who <|o 
 so. timl it ono of tho .i.o>t intoi'osting helato.l oonntiy villagos i.i tho whole 
 
/ 
 
 SK.\ IIKM'II. 
 
 m 
 
 inodcrniHcd niiil viil;,'«ris»'»l soiitli-fastorti coiiht «»t' this intn \v(»rk-ii-<lay 
 ninftt'eiitli-cciitiiry Kii^'laiul. 
 
 A tack from tin; i-djit^ of tlic hlytlio, o|>])osite the paws in i\\v chalk- 
 hills at VY\\\ which sorves as a {?ui(le to the iiavi;,'atioii of tho Lower Hope 
 corner, l)rinj,'H ns over ipiickly with half a wind to the solitary and desolate 
 lMiildinj,'s of Thames Haven, a prey to the common waterside pla<;ue of 
 corrn<,'at(Ml iron Corrnyated iron sheds, corru^'ated iron roofs, corrugated 
 iron |talingH— the entire place secnis wliolly given over to the utilitarian 
 worship of that eminently unpicturesque deity, ntrrugated iron. Thames 
 Haven indeed, in spite of its tine-.sounding name (which ought l>y right, 
 of course, to hi'long oidy to the I'ort of London), is a purely artificial 
 town, or rather village, consisting of little more than railway huihlings 
 and cattle enclosures, brought into existence by the live-stock trade with 
 Holland and North (Urmany. A .small branch line has a tenninus here 
 on a flat a!id lonely coa.st — a mere desert of sand, covered by a few 
 hasty H»|uare mercantile-looking buildings, where suspected cattle undergo 
 their unconscious (piarantine, and lol)ster vessels from the Norwegian 
 fiords or Scottish inlets land their living freight at a light iron pier. Yet 
 dreary as is Thames Haven on its terrestrial side, the scene from the 
 water is not without striking elements in its own way. A Trinity steamer 
 is lying alongside as we pass the pier, waiting to change the lightship men 
 or ket'pi'rs on the Mouse or the Maplin ; a couple of fishing vessels are 
 discharging cargo for the railway hard by, in true fisher style ; and a 
 lighti'r smack, flying the pretty Norse flag from her mainmast, is just 
 getting under way for her return voyage to the beautiful long firths of 
 Christ iania or liergen. That is the redeeming feature of the.se tidal rivers : 
 however dull and flat and ugly the natural scenery may be in its own 
 nature, here, and here oidy, mans utilitarian art has stepped in to 
 unconscicmsly beautify it. and to enliven the dreary coast with all the 
 changeful picturcstpu- panorama of white sails and dark hulls and red 
 lighthouses, and hardy fisher life, till at last what was in itself and on 
 the large scale altsolutely barren and un|trotitable becomes by human additions 
 wonderfully varied and vivid and interesting in all its tletails. 
 
 Front Thames Haven, where we lie up .sketching till i)ast our frugal 
 
/ 
 
 \ 
 
 TO 
 
 rrn: tidal riiAMr.i^. 
 
 .li„,».,-. wr must tak,. aimtluT tun. l.a.-kwar.I alun- tli.' unrtlu-ru Kh.s..n 
 sIm.iv to oxplniv tlu- iiitrinitr s.vstm. of inl.ts au.l waslu-s that ^piva.U 
 aloi.K' tlif iKMishv stivtcl. of o..ast iK-twirn tl.al a.h.utitious town an.l 
 XW Lri-li riNiT. 'ri'i^ """•'^I'V '«-''"'" ^^'"* '■"■^' ivclain.r.l L.v Putcl. uavNies 
 ,.f tlu- sauu. M.rt as thosr nvI... .Iiaii.nl au.l lua.lr l.al.ital.lr tlu- Cau.l.ii.l.ur 
 sliiiv frulan.l. tlu> wlu.K' aiva l.aviu- Ikvu ivn.vr.v.l fn.ui tlu- s.-a l.v nu.- .Inas 
 (•rapiK-ulmi- iu tl.r .vi-u of .lauu-s I., au.l aivl.it.rt.nal .•v.s sr,- (..r pn.frss 
 tluv M'c) to this .by tia.rs of th.- Dul.h stvh' ..f fanu-l.uihliu- iu tlu- .•u.i.Mis 
 s.,uaiv ,.hl-tashi..ur.l -.au-.s that stu.l th.- h-v.'l hut u..t iulV-itih^ Ih-its ..f 
 CauvfV Ishiu.l. Th.- uaincs. h..\v,.v.r. aiv rath.-r S.-au.liuaviau thau L..nv 
 Dutch iu tyiH-: the Skais. au.l Kurth.T Wi.k. au.l L.-i.i:h I5.rk. au.l so forth, 
 haviu- all ..f tluMu tlu- iv-ular ..l.l N..rs.-u.au riu- ; au.l it snu.s i.n.l.al.h- 
 that the Dauish |.iratfs hav.- uioiv t.. .h. with tlu- ..li-iual hist..rv ..f Cauvy 
 thau th.' pratvahlf stviutiH'Uth-.H-uturv .l.lviu^' M..llau.hrs. Tlu- Slui.v 
 Hous.- that puuips Ih.- wat.T Inm. th.' aitifi.-ial .lyk.s au.l s.iv.s us fo. a 
 -ui.h- iut.. th.' uoi-hl...uriu,Lr .-nrk. lu^ais a uau..' that w.'ll .'UilKMlh^s fh.' utt.T 
 isolati.ni ..f tla- Cauvi-y ik..).!.', tor it lias Iutu not inaptly .■hrist.-u.Ml th.' 
 
 WoH.ls Eu.l. 
 
 •lust l.d..\v Thaiu.s lla\.u wv tun. up this h.ni,' au.l .l.-sola(.- sau.ly 
 ciwk that ..pius al.niptly to th.' u..rth\var.l. wh.'iv a uuu.lKr ."f hul.h- 
 I.Mjkiuj; ..alt luay -nuTally I..- sivii ii.lin,tr at au.lior iu th.' uairow .vutial 
 .•hauui'l l.it\vi-i'U till' low tiats ..f fau\.y Islau.l au.l th.- .hvary marshy 
 Kssi-x uiaiulau.l. 11. -ly llav.i. th.y .all it. ..u.- ..I th.- iuuuuu'iahh- ti.lal 
 u.azis in whirl, s.'a au.l stivau. miu-l.- t-.'rflh.'i' iu.xtri.al.ly ..u th.'M- 
 Ufthci- iva.hos— at l.i-h wal.r a l..-..a.l fxpaus.' ..f salt riv.-i-, at .-I.!, a sl.iuiu-,' 
 flat ..f a.-ii.l u.u.l au.l hi-lt..! sau.lhai.k. In II. .ly Mav.i. li.- a uumlKT ..f 
 hulks st..r.Ml with .lyi.au.it.-. paint. .1 r.-.l au.l iiiooi-.'.l far apail iu th.' 
 si.k- .hanui-l, A ship l.oun.l out is waiting: in th.- riv. r. au.l a li.u'ht l.aij:»- 
 with iv.l si.k-s au.l tlappiu- |M.w.li-r tla^' has n.ii iu hai.l l.y t.. I.iiu^' h.-r 
 ixptcti-.l c-ai',i.'.> of .lyiiamit.-. I'"iu.lin^' uo on.- .>u l>.iar.l th.- hulk, th.- .-it-w 
 ltfL.'ii. ca.sually to lo.ul at oii.-.-. passiu-r th.- «-a.s.-s as fast as th.y ai.- ahh- 
 fioii. on.' ship to th." ..th..-. Foitui.al.ly. a hoat pulls off fn.u. tl.t- sh.nv 
 i.i hot ha>tf. th.- ol.l ship k..p.i- .allii.Lr all tli.- ti...«- .s..iiii-tl.iuK iuartit-ulat.- 
 at tilt- top .if his voi.-.-. \\\\u\\ w.- fiml out. wh.-i. h.- finally n.-ais us. t.j l»t- 
 
•SAM itt:.\rii. 
 
 t\ 
 
 (lif iiwl'iil wnids "'riinsc lire (It'toiintnrs." Tlic ilistiiiitiilicoiiN .sliickcuiiit,' of 
 work liv tliiit riTW siii|iiissrs all posHiliU' il<'sci'i|ition. 
 
 Til Itllv ii.L;;;»'(l >lii|is tliiit lie oiif of the iiiniii tlioiinin;|it(irt' of coiii- 
 
 iiicKT ill (his wiiidiiiLf ' "/ 'A' >'"• !iir t'cl-srliux ts from Hollmid. liriiijLriiij,' 
 o\cr tlic iiiiiiilit iltss tcls tliiit fntttii tliroii;,di tlif siiniiiu'r in tin- Diitcli 
 «-iiiiiils, mid :iri- (■!iii;;lit liy tlioiisiiiids in tin- liiirks or weirs on tlicir 
 rrtlMli NoVfi^t' to tlif scii ill the illltlinili liioiltlis. 'I'lic sriiliyts iirtt 
 ciiriniisiy ronstriK'trd for tliiir N|i*'(iiil tnid)', tlic middle eomitaitmeiit, wlieru 
 tlie ti>li are stored, lieiii^' eomposed of a sort of tank partiallv ojieii to the 
 sea, \\liile the two ends are wateitijilit. In this nianiier the eels, thmtinj; 
 alioiit freely in the water, remain fresh until tlie\ reach Kiiuland. iJnt 
 the reason alhj^ed for the delay at Holy Haven is a sutlicieiitly oirions 
 one, and throws a eeitain lurid linlit of its own upon the average eom- 
 jiosition of 'riiaines water lielow i.oiidoii. The e»'ls eaiinot live, it seems, in 
 the polluted river aiiove the point wlieic it lie;,diis to narrow ; there is too 
 iiiueli of what is euphoniously deseriiieil as " oi<,'aiiie matter" in the silvery 
 Thames even for their oniiiivoioiis tastes. So the sehuyts lie up ipiietly at 
 llolv Haven, waiting,' for further orders from the centre of the tisli trade at 
 |5illin<;sjfate. |!v-and-l»y, when tin- consumer in l.ondon is ready for more 
 eels, a tuif comes down promptly to Holy Haven, ami tin- first scliuyt in 
 order hurries up as rapidly as possilile thioiiiih the foul water to the <,'reat 
 market. There the eels aii' taken out alive, and their further di-stination 
 liecomes one of those culinary mysteries into which neither the liumanitariaii 
 nor the practical uastionomcr should iiupiire too closely or curiously. 
 
 In s|)ite of tlie tout water, however, the native Thames eels tliemselvts 
 must niaiiam' to iii,i,.e their way up throiii;h the luaekish tiilal reaches 
 siiecessfiillv, somehow or another; for lar.ye tpiaiitities certainly exist in the 
 upper river, ami many are cau,ulit in the .yieat laicks which form such 
 pietui»'S(pie features .icross the face of the stream at Maidt'iiliead and else- 
 where. The eel. in fact, exactly reverses the procedure of the .salmon. 
 Thoii-'h he is practically a freshwater tisli in all essentials, he ,yoes down 
 I'verv vear to spawn in tlie sea, if l>y any possiltility he can manai'-e to .yet 
 there. The younn' frv, known as elvers, are usually hatched out in salt 
 water, and shortly after hegin to a.sct'iid the river from which their parents 
 
77/ a; /7/M/. 77/.U/AX 
 
 iiii,i;r!it«'<| — lit Ii';i>l. •«• I 
 
 lie ti'.li. T fnlk !ihv:iVM tell oiif. (Ii..ii','li t..v wliiil iittilk' 
 
 tlifV riiii tlistini.Mii«.li tin- ?<|»a\Mi oi fV\ i-f 
 
 Tl. 
 
 iim'> It 
 
 I tVi'iii tli(i-.c (it :i 
 
 rival iVom tin- Midwiiv di 
 
 till' r.la.-kNNiit. r. il i^ liar.l iimI.t.! \\>y tlir imiiiilial.'.l 
 
 on 
 
 t>iil.'r to iniaiiiiif. I'.iit il w.miI.I !•.• .•iii.l t-.,. iniiiiitiiN m .•\amiiir tli.'^f 
 
 im-tuivs.i<u- liltl"' «al'l<'s <'f tli.' tishiii- |M.|Mil,iti..ii nmiI. llir m,!..!- iiiicr..M-..|M 
 
 .). 
 
 t' MMfiicf or cNcii tin- ••ooi fyr-;;laj*H o 
 
 it' cniimioii ■.ciix' : let il Im' iiraiitfil 
 
 a-* 
 
 Kii.li.l woul.l |iul it. tlial tin- .\ouii- .Un^ aiv wi-r niou-li to Ixiio 
 
 not oiilv tlu'ir own 
 
 tatlifiH. Init r\iii llif >lioili>l \\av to tlif rivci lion 
 
 wliifli tlu'V fini;:rat«'«l— tor. iinl.r.l. llir lid.' i> liar.ll.v lil^.•i\ to .lri\c tli.ni 
 up an> otluT. In tlif spring' tluv lilt!.' wii-ulin- nv.itnr.s l.i-in to a« 
 
 ii.l 
 
 or llic 
 
 tlif iiaifiit >lriani. linn, in \a^t ^in>aN known a> «il tan- 
 most part llif.v liuu' tin- l«ank. ami kf.'|. lo wrv shallow water, an.l at llif 
 nioutli or coiitlui'inH' of lacli triluitarv a small (Ittaclinimt I.IU ilMJf oiV 
 sili'iitlv to occii|iy tlif sidf strianis, wliilf tlif main lio.ly .onliniif'^ to -wini 
 with nntliminishfd viu'our up tlif fhiff rivfi 
 
 \'ast nuniltfi-. die li\ tli 
 
 \va\. of foursf 
 
 Itut tlifif an- still fiioiiuh Ifft to kitp llu ffl population 
 of Knjjland iHTmaiifnllv up to its munial lf\fl. Wfii-. walK. and othfi- liiimaii 
 olistruftioiis tfiid sonn-wliat to ilamp thf ardour of tlifii onw.ir.i .-ouisf, tliouirli 
 Vour ffl is not ifadilv daiiiitfd liv aiistliin;: short of ;i >nin.ith pfipfiidirul.ir 
 Kurfaff, and will makf valiant ftVort> to wriu-lf his \\,iy up whatfs.r 
 imiH'dimfiit Ihf rfsouicfs of fivili>alion havf plaifd ;ifro^> hi-. p;ilh. Ilow- 
 evfi-. thf ffl-tishfis ixfiif rally tfinper thf wind to hi-, hack (iiiftaplioi ifally 
 spfukin;.') I>v Ifttini: down aititifial l.iddfr> of twi^ttd ^tiaw or hay. l»y 
 wliosf aid thf aspiriiiLT flvfr at last surmounts tlif olistaclf^ lli.it li;ir his 
 jounifV towards thf tinal jioal. in thf autumn thf adult tils ulso iloffiid 
 tlif liver to tlifir s|»iiwninir lifd> with cipial uiiaiiiiiiitv. in formed liatallion^: 
 and it is durin<^' tlicsf iinniial migrations th;il lhf\ an- ehiftly caiiLihl in 
 thf ffl-l>uek>. with an ulliniatf fyf to ihf nianufafluif of th.-it fjinmu^ eel- 
 itie which uives its name to the well-known ami pretty little ey(»t ne.ir 
 llfulfv-oii-'riiamfs. Thf Dutch eel tratle tloiirishes most duiiii.i,^ the s.inif 
 autumn months; and it is tlifii that thf sehuyts may l»f scfn must thickly 
 coii^jrej^'ated in llolv Haven, waitiiiy; for the siynal fmm the iiiillion liun;,'ry 
 mouths of the London eel-eaters, to continue their inteirupted joiiriify u|i 
 thf tifsfciatfd and polluted 'riiamis. 
 
/ 
 
 .VA'.I IlKMIl, 
 
 Till' li<lal JIimmI tlint tills tin- I(HI)li; iiiiiis <»f Mnlv llnvcn Cicck I 
 
 n.srs 
 
 ) 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 Itxlf ;iiiuliiiillv ill MiiiiMis (lixti'i^cht IhiiiicIhh. oiir of wlilrli, Irt'iMliii^' in 
 il*>\iiMis ciii'vi'H tliiiiii;{li iiiiiililv cliiiiiiii-ls to till' cast, tit hist iinitrs witli 
 l.iinli ('nek, mill so sr|i!iiiitrs tlif low iiinisliy ^rrouinl to soiitliwanl into 
 an ixilatrd liit of land known to nioilt'iii lips liy tlu' itmliilv |)lt'onastir title 
 of ('aiiNcy IslantI, I'lfoiiiistir. of i-oiiihc, lin-aiisr tli*' word Caiivi'V itself 
 ali'tady ini|tli)s tlie iiisiihii' fliarartti' of the land to whirli it attaclK's. Tlir 
 syllalilc III or //. found at tlie end of almost all island names aioiind the 
 coast of liiitaiii, is a last evanescent form of the old Kn;,disli word ///, an 
 island; and as such it rea|i|iears not only in Caiivcy. Slie|t|iey. Wallasey, 
 Haity, and KImley in the Lower 'riiaiiies district, Init also in Walncy, Scilly, 
 liardsey, and many other isK'ls elsewhere. Soiiietinu's, too, it assumes a 
 sli;;litly ditrcreiit and dece|ttive spcllin;;', which masks its real derivation, as 
 in .Vii.ulesea (formerly An;;lesey)— that is to say, the Isli of Kii;,disliineii ; Selsea 
 (formerly Selseyi, the Isle of Sejils ; Mersea, the Marshy Isle; and Chelsea, 
 the Isle of Sliiiiiih'. Indeed, in spite of locid aiitii|uariaiis, it would seem 
 as ihoiiLjIi .leisey. titiemsey, and .Mdeiney must lie added to the same list, 
 r.iit while iioliody ever dreams of sayiii;; tlersey Island or Anj^lesea Island, 
 any more tliiiii they dream of siiyiujLC Cnmlierlandshire or Northiimlierland- 
 shire, Caiivey has lieeii less |ihiloloj;ically fortunate, and has come now to 
 l)e iiniver.s.dly known as Canvey Isl.iiid, .i case exactly parallel to those of 
 Lake Windermere and Mount lien .lerlaw. The meaiiiii;L,' of the old 
 desciiplist" Word has heeii forgotten, ami then the nioilern word of the 
 siime meaiiinn has lieeii unnecessarily added to it as a detiniiijn' siillix. 
 Canvey is hanked all round to keep out the tide, whether liy the Dutch or 
 the natives, and, tliouj,di very isolated, is t'ar from i»ein,u ^'» utterly wild and 
 unkempt as the neL;lecteil islands around the jiiuctiou of the Thaniis and 
 the Medway. ( >ii the contrary, it supports aii immense niimlter of l)lack- 
 faced sidt -marsh slicip, which tiiid excellent |>astura,nv on its s;iline weeds 
 and rank i^rasses ; and it even lioasts the pos.sessioii of ii church or chapel, 
 situated .somewhere near the centre of the loiin' tiat area. How few people 
 really know anything; of the numiierle.ss coiupoiu'iit elements that ,i;-o to 
 make up that familiar nfojuraphical t-xpii-ssioii tlu" Uritisli Isles! There are 
 over a thousand of tliem all together, not includiii';' mere .sea-rocLs or inland 
 
/ 
 
 74 77//; rilt.M. /7/.IJ//.X 
 
 t'voti*; mill vt't iv«ii II SrIi.Mil |l«»iiril |ni|iil tiiu'lu-r (wlm. I xii|t|M.^r, U \\w 
 
 IIIOHt ••lU'Vfloplttlif |>rlH«i|lll;if now «'Ni»«liliy ill tlir mIimIc IiiimIi'III lliili-.li 
 
 c'<.iiiiiiiiiiil\» iniililnt |»ii»ltiil.l\ till uiH- Mtlliiiiiil tin- |HM|Mi iiiiiiiif* III' ii niiiiiil 
 tiny.rii nf lliiiii lliiv i" <'!iii\t'\ Uliiiitl. I'm t\iiiii|tli'. ii I'il -il' I;iihI lixf iiiili-* 
 Iniijx mill M'^ lii',' ii' >'•<• l''i" "•" l'"itl;iiiil. I.\iii« williiii .111 Iiimii'h inn nl' 
 Loiiilitii. Iiio. vtt iinnr inmilf Inr nil |iin«liriil |iiir|Mi..fH tliiiii wli.it <;iltlM.ii 
 ciilliil •till' iviiiiili>.t I'f iIm' llilnith'i." ami iilw<iliHtl> iinkiiMwii <'\«ii liv 
 iiiiiiu' ti) iiliiint t'liiii' inilliiiiii imiI nt' ihr tnnr niillinii ninl mlil inlinliitniitH 
 lit" tlif Mft'ii|MilitMii |M>si,il ili^iiict. r.iltii iinlinl t<i li\f in \iiiii tliiiii li» 
 li\r in ( 'iiiivt'V. 
 
 IliMiiiiliiii: till' i>*liiiii| liv -liiw ili'i.'ivcH, anil inH witliuiit tin' ImnmiiiiiMiH 
 aiil iif a |Hi|( — J'lir tlnrc i^ liltli' wiml. ami wliat litllr tlirir i-. IhjkIh iIi-jiiI 
 
 aiiaiiiHt lis — w nil' niil auain mi tin' lnuatl I'Xpaiisc ul' j.riyli Ciiik. «lni»' 
 
 wi- put ill alrnnlv a riiii|ilr ul' niulit-" ^iniH-, ami mt tin- Imi',' «.lnlrli ul" 
 
 Soiitlii'iiil |>i«'r liiitiiiiny larur ami Itaif. likr a yiral wliilc Mkrlilmi, in rmnt 
 
 of IIS. On till- ininl llats tlir l.iir yi'»'.v ln'ioiis staml li-^liiiii; in the intci- 
 
 Kfctiliy tiilal stnanis, itccI i»ii tlnii tall Iti.'-. «itli kcfii r\rs liriit ilnwiiwanl 
 
 tixrillv n|M(n tln' ilaitiiiu' li>li in iIm' walri Itfluw. l-'nun tin- niuiitli nl' tin* 
 
 t'lvek a ijiiirk inn Ixl'iiif llir liulil iufi/.i' takfs n> liark with tin- niniintin^ 
 
 tiilf a-. I'ar a^ lli>lv Jlavi'ii. wlirn- wc |irit|MiM' tn lir n|i I'ur mir tviniiiy'H 
 
 list ami to lav in a littli- stun- ul" rii-.li lniail aiiaiif^l mil ri'iniiiiilii;; 
 
 npwaiil jmirmv. (Inr rmiisf Mrs ii\(i the snltiin-rjitMl sainls ul' tin- rlia|iniaii 
 
 ami |ia>t the liamlsmiic jiilc li;.'litlimisf that uiianls tin- rurkv ni'i;:liiMiiirhiMii| 
 
 known ar. tin- Skars Thi' li'^hl ..tamls I'mtv Int al>i»\i' hiyh watir Ii'mI ; 
 
 mill as \\c |ia^s, till' I'lt^ lull s|i>\\|\ lif^iiis its mniiimis ilrmiiiiL;. I'm' ihf 
 
 wcatluT is tliii'ki'iiini; i>n ^•\^•\■\ hami, sn tliiit vm' aif imt sun y tu H'miIi nnr 
 
 intriiilfil anrhniai:!' a lull hmir lirl'mr Ihi- ilri'|i nil ha/v siiiisit It ilri/./lts 
 
 (III (It'ck, sn wi- taki- til thr raliin I'm' I'tlnm'. ami set al>mil linishiii;.' haif- 
 
 (•mii|ilctiMl skftrhi's. That, with tt-a ami \arns, rjurits iis ovci till mir tally 
 
 licil-tinif It is astiinishiiii,r huw nianv \arns an nM haml mana;,n'> tn |>irk 
 
 u|i in thf roiirsf nl' liis wamlt'iin;.^s. ami Imw nsi-t'nl tiny rmnr in mi a la/y 
 
 cruise in the aliseiire nf work, Imoks. m- pa|iers. 
 
 Nnt. I will emitess, that tlie sealarini.' lit"' lemls it-.elt' leaililv tn literary 
 n('i-n|iatinns. Men are tnn tii'eil at the emi III' a ImiL: watch In iln niiich else 
 
/ 
 
 .VA.I llHM'n. 
 
 Ih 
 
 lint ttini ill iiihI Nlffp mH' tlii'ii l'uti;(Uf liiili'i><l, my iii)|M'i>MMii>ii U tliiit tlMiii;;li 
 till- Mill iiii'ii iiiM'iit till' vtiriiM. it is iiliiiiHi iiIwiivm tlii> IiiiiiIhiih'ii wIim \vnti> 
 tlh'iii ilnwii. (M' ntmMi', tlirii" is tin' nm- j^ivat i>xri>|»tiiiii nf .Manyut ; iiiiil, 
 iii<iM> I'i'iTiitly, I'ii'i'i-i' l.iili lias nIionmi tlir wmlil that a sailnr ran write tn 
 match fill- licst. Itiil ihcsi' all- iiiir f.\aiii|i|fs : Ww tin- must part it is thf 
 laiiil liilili»r wliM siiiLfH the joys of the ocraii. DilMJiii pasMcil his iifi- in a 
 liliiaiy ; •''r«nii Ciiiiyif's Lnj,'" was written l»y a nii'ifhant at Kingston, 
 •laiiiaicii ; ami Mi Chiik Knsscll is imt. \ iinthTstaml. the mate <tl" a tishin;,'- 
 HliUM'k. I i'\|it'i-|. it' we eiililil ;ret to llie Neiy iiiittnm III' it, we hIioiiIiI tiinl 
 after all that the Oilyssey wiis really eiiiii|Mise(l liy a lamlsnian. ami that 
 the ejiir nt' the sea was liist rliaiiteil to nistie ears in inlanil Arenilia. 
 
 *.««■ -"-"S? 
 
 IIIK MIcKIM^ l,lnlHi|ii| UK, 
 
 ((• 
 

 
 ii^ 
 
 ClIAlTKll VII 
 
 t;i:AVKsr.Mi AM* rii.i'.ruv. 
 I'.OVK Sea Mcarli tlif r'wrr narrows suddiiil.v mikI nii.\|M'cti<llv. 
 Til.' Mucki'.ii: li.u'litiiousf. a hi.Lrli iv(l-t>an.i.'<l wliitf tower, 
 fi-.'.-ttMi on i-iU's l.y til.' Kss.'X slioiv on tlic .•(!-(• of Mii.kin.-: 
 Flat, aliout a iniK' wcstwanl of Tliani.'«. Ilavm yu-v. maiks 
 tlu- fntranc- ..f tlif n.'Xt ivacli. known a> tin- Lower Hop.'. 
 Til.- nainrs nf all tlic-r l.i-lits. luii.ls. aii.l .H.onss on tli.' I.ow.t Tliani.s an- 
 wry anrirnt. porhaps vyvu pivlustorir ; .vrtainly tlu- fart tl.at tlu- Hope 
 must haw l.rcn m. .-all.,! in mr.lia'val times at least is el.ar from tlie nam.'s 
 of places on its hank, sueh as Stanfonl-le-llop... wIi.im very form sliows 
 tliem at onee to l,e of Norman or early I'lanta-.-net o,i,ni„. It is Sianfonl- 
 le-ll..pe Clnnvh who... tower shows ui- so l.ol.lly upon onr ri-hl a> we 
 turn the eorner l.> Mnckin- li-hthouse an.l >teer southwanl towanl tlu- 
 
 jrivut Latteries that here -uanl the out.T entran( f the narrower Thames. 
 
 At Coalhouse Point on tin- Kss.-x >hoie, an.l Shoii.mea.l on the Kentish 
 8i.le. two sister fnititiration^ >weep with their heavy ,-un> tli.' entire l.rea.lth 
 of the river ; an.l t..rp.MhM-s an- k.pt in rea.lin.-ss for n^. in eas.- o«- nee.l 
 in hloekin- up this easi..st naval patl.wav t.. the w.-althy h.-art of m.irantil.- 
 Kn^dan.i. The ll.»l»- i> 'i <•"'• ■""' 'niint.Mvstiim r.a.h in ..th.'i- wa\s. for 
 
 JHTe tin- shor .ith.'r >i.i.- run> tlat an.l ma.shy. an.l ih.' >hil.> alone. 
 
 that n..w l..-in t.. -ntli-r in s..m.'what m<.r.' .'l.-sely t.. a .•..nim..n .•.ntre, 
 -iv.' lif.' an.l anim,ati..n t.. an ..th.r\\i>e M.mewhat .Ireary and -r.'.Nisli se,.ne. 
 
NJJ^ 
 
?y 
 
sm 
 • *» 
 
 a 
 
 
/ 
 
 i;i!.\\'i:s!:Mt .i.\7> rii.iiinv. " 
 
 Tin" snlitnrv iiiiiii in I lie siiuill Un\{ wlio liaii-,'H iilM.ut so riirelosuly 
 Itctwi'cn Mil tlif liij-' stfaiiii'iH aii<i lii-avy iiiiTcliaiitim-ii aiul fast sailiii;-' 
 clipiifis l)v tlif Lower llo|.t' follows tlu' calliiipr <'iii|»liatically known on tlio 
 tidal Thaint's as that of a niiid-pilot. lie knows tlif river, with all its 
 shoals and Hats and niudlianks, and he Jtilots vessels up from Sea Ileaeh 
 to their final iierths in the inner I'ort of London. Von may see these 
 lonely men often enon^fji tossing alioiit uncitucerned in their small open 
 hoats hv day or ni,uht, with provisions for a week stowed away in the 
 locker, far down into tin- stormy estuary, where so frail a eraft runs 
 the doulile danger of I.ein;;- swamped l»y heavy seas or run over i)y a, 
 r.ut the stitn.^'de for existence presses hard on all of us; 
 
 passing' steamer. 
 
 l-l»ilot is ulad enoujih to risk his life on the open tidal 
 
 and the mud-) 
 
 mouth of the river, if only he can j-ain a passing- chance of extra employ- 
 ment l»y a homeward-hound shi|> on a sinj-le little upward journey. 
 
 The lii,-;- hidl moored in the river a little out of the ordinary channel 
 of tratlic. with red Wa'A Hvin^' from the mastheati, is a powder ma,i,'azine, 
 and all Ordnance ve.s.sels having' ^.unpowder on hoard are similarly marked 
 with the same expressive and imiversal «lan<;er-sijinal. Steamers and 
 vessels havinj;- tires on <leck are warned to keep well to leeward of these 
 explosive ships ; l.ut such is the innate carelessness or perversity of human 
 nature that many of them in.sist upon runnin<;' close to windward to try 
 whether they can mana,t-e to yet themselves comfortably hlowu up in the 
 pr(K-ess or not. A single spark from the funnel, or a hit of live ash leapin-;- 
 from li.e l.la/in^' cauldron tiie of a Leiyh shiimper, might blow a powder- 
 vessel and every other ship within easy reach of it into indistin<,mi.slial.le 
 fra.!;nients in half a .second ; and yet stean>ers an»l shrimpers sail elose up 
 even when the hatches are off. and loose powder shaken from the packages 
 is lying about confusedly over all the decks. Truly the 15ritish saih)r is a 
 verv fearless and courageous person, but sometimes his fearlessness c.mes 
 perihmsly near lieing considered merely foolhardy. If he were only a ctm- 
 vinced l'.ud.lhist, now, one might .set it down to his abstract desire for 
 Nirvana (1 speak with the fear of Dr. llhys Davids before my eyes), but 
 Nirvana is ci'rtainly not the kind of paradise adapted to the sjjoeial and 
 peculiar views of the sturdy and unsophisticated liritish sailor. 
 
/ 
 
 w 
 
 Tin: rii>\i. r/iAMHs. 
 
 Passiii,i; tlu' sMii.llKiiik known l.v tlir .|""''" '''■'' "'" ''"" "'''"^- '"' 
 W<i\n to iipi.n.Mrh til.- iniiniifiictiirin.'i iu'i^'li»M«uilio...l <>( (ir.n.-sfn.l II. iv. 
 f..r th.' first tiin.' i.lin..st .ni ..wr ninviinl .nnis.-. w.- f.vl w.- iiiv >l.'s\ly 
 nt'arin,-; tli.' far ivacl.in- -aitskirts of a va-l n.o-l.'rn .ivilis.'.l .vntr.' I>..\mi 
 Ih>I..\v. tin- as|Krt of unl.rok.n Nal.uv wa- lor tl..- n...>t part on.' of utt.r 
 Nvil.lufss s..litu.lr. an.l .l.'solation. Tl..' lon.-lv str.'t.-ln- ..f tli.' Ksv\ .•oa>t. 
 tlu« .•n.U.'ss >l...als an.l -^an.ll.anks ..f th.' n.i.l.ll.- .-Lann.'!. tl..' n.ar>l.v ilatn 
 a,„l nrntrant n.a/..'> ..f tl,.' Swal.' an.l tli.' M.'.hvay. all -•.•nMMl ntt.'riy 
 ,vni..t.' fr..n. th.' fnll li.l.' -.f VW^- lint >.'.'tli.'> an.l .•••ntr.'s n-.i^ly an.l 
 ,sni..kily r..un.l tlu- mi-lity .MLlyin- Iml. ..f .mr tnn.ultn.m^ l.on.lon. I'-nl at 
 (lrav,s.-n.l f-.r tii.- tir>t tini.- w.- s.-.-m t.. tin.l .>urs.-l\.-s fa.-.- t.. fa.-.- uitii 
 tl..- last l..n,- ..utstr.-t.-lu-.l t.-.-l.-r ..f tl..- I,..n.l.Mi spi.l.-r. tl.at -pins its .-v.-r- 
 
 wi.l.-nin.ir wi-l. in .-ontri.- rin-s ..v.-r tin- wlml.- n.arr.-.l span-s ..f nisli.- 
 
 Kssi-x. K.-nt. an.l Surn-y. II. -r.- an- nunilK-rl.-ss tn-_'s. with ...al l.nlks lor 
 thfir ns,-; ,-oasf^nanl sl,ip> an.l .piarantin.- l.nlk-. tl\in- a y.lL.w lla- . nn.l 
 ni..r.- p..w.l.-r v.->s.-ls with thi-ir apj-n-piiat.- .lan-.-r-siunals. Tli.- » irav.-s.-n.l 
 wat.-rinan is a vt-ry in.p..rtant it.-n. t.... hnn.lr.-.U ..f wh.-rri.-s .-.•..«. 1 th.- 
 
 stn-am: an.l .m.- in parti.-ular. tl..- h.n- r.-.l wh.-iry with a .-..x.-rt-.l in l p. 
 
 .-arrit-s tla- pow.l.-r ..tf t.. tl..- ships wl... may i...t lan.l al.ov.- this p..int ..n 
 th.- L.m.lon riv.-i-. M..r.-..v.-r. w.- an- -.-ttin- int.. tl..- r.-,-i..n of .•arl...n. At 
 Canv.-y Man.l an.l l.y Vaiitl.-t Civ.-k tli.-r.- ini.-iit I'.- nm.l an.l to- an.l 
 ...l.Mirs innuin.-ral.l.-. hut at l.-ast th.-r.- wa> not that toul.-st ..f all foiil 
 li.-n.ls -<ni..k.-. At (ira\.-«-n.l th.r.- is sni..k.- .-i.oni^h in all .-on-.-i.-m-.-. .omini,' 
 tV.pin th.- town itst-lf an.l fi..n. th.- lin..-w..iks l.,-y..n.l it ; an.l th.- uIl-L- l.".k 
 ,,f th.- pla.-.- i- ino.l.rn, .-ast-.-n.ly. .hill, an.l siii..ky. aft.r th.- tin.- I,..n.l..n 
 Thani.s fa-hi.m. 
 
 An.l y.-t Alt. hv on.- of th..-.- niir,i.-l.-> -" familiar to h.-r. li.-.s iiirn..l 
 th.- sm..k.- an.l .liit .in. I mn.l an.l f..- nf |,..n.l..n, aii.l <<\' lli-' 'I'ham.-s l,..l,,w 
 it. into a po>itiv.- .1. in. lit ..f h.^aiity in il> .'wn kiii.l. a s.ni >>\' iniirky lial.. 
 w.-li iM'tittini: th.- i:iv,-tt hiri.l -^rimy .-apital ..f oiir -..li.l an.l M|n.-iliil Kn.ulish 
 .■i\ilisati..ii. A.laptinir hinis.lf t.. th.- p.-.-niiai uoiM h.- li\.- in. th.- l-.ii-.^li-h 
 artist has s.'t hinis.'lf |.. \\..rk to inl.-rpr.-t f..r iis in lii> ..wn iiaii\.- laiiL;. .;■•;.- 
 th.- mist\, LTivv. murky ni.tr.ipoli- ..f th.- l!rili-li n:ni..ii. and th.- .lull ta\\n\ 
 riv.-r ro.-t.l that l.-a.ls -tiiii,L:lil nj. iiilc its L:looii.y lios.tiii. i!y a -in;_:ulai 
 
/ 
 
 (!iL\\'i:si:yii .\m> riLuriiv. 
 
 (•(liiiridciirc, iiliiMist iill niir cliicf towns lie in the midst of just siu-ii iiuiisliy 
 liili'ii levels ; llic site of London itself was ii vast inoiass liefoie the iiaiiow 
 lanes and alleys of tlie City were l>nilt across it, and the Kleet anil lloiinds- 
 diteh and a do/en more such mai'shlaiid names still remind us of th(> 
 mi>ty sea le\els out of whieh the ^leat city has gradually liseii. |jvei|iool in 
 the solemn hollow of the muddy Mi-isey ; (ilasi-dw liy the low, dank, dreary 
 reaches of the disunised Clyde ; Ihistol in the di'e|» liasin of the encuml»ered 
 .\\on. are all of them jnsi as tlat and dark and smoky as Lonilon itself. 
 And e\en Oxford and Candiridj^c, the two nieatest iutellectual centres, 
 aftei- the capital, in the whole island, though not cursed with the |ila,niic 
 of smoke, are fonny and misty in the extreme, standing;' one of them on 
 the Hooded water meadows itf thi' overflow iui;' isis, an<l the other liy the 
 la/v Cam, in the exact centre of the eastern Fenlands. I'nder these circum- 
 stances it is no womler that foi;- and smoke should have stamped their 
 impress on the very warji and woof of Kni;lish life and Knylish art ; thitt 
 our landscapes should <li'al so often with ndsty effects and hazy li.ulits and 
 cloudv skies and stormy morninys l>y the murky sisi ; that our painters 
 should watch the pah' Idut- wreaths that curl from the chimneys in the 
 hollow uap of Hastings Old Town: should linger lovini;ly amou"-- the 
 enchanted wharves of N'armouth or (ireat (irimsi>y ; and should put on 
 canvas the dim urcy shapes that loom up indistinctly through the faint 
 white ha/e Upon the Thames Kmltankment. Thus, out of these strange and 
 secmiiiLily unpromisim;- materials, Kn.niish Art has ituilt herself a i)eautiful 
 and statclv palace ; from tlu-se curious half-undeciphered hieronlyphics she 
 lias inter|>reted to us the actual world whose dusky panoi'ama passes for ever 
 mistilv liefore our \erv eyes. In doin>; so, she has done well : Wisdom 
 herein is justitied of .-dl hei' children. She has ^■ivell us a picture as 
 inipre»i\e and hrautiful in its way as any whose lineaments she could 
 have cauuht upon the arid hills of Attica or un'.er the chiudless skies of 
 >uiiny Italy. 
 
 How slran-e to think that even Kn,ulisli Art itself has lu'cn definitely 
 allected liy the (iulf Stream and the pn'vailin,n westerly iircc/.cs: The 
 r.riti-^h Islands, standin.u on the extreme ver,-;i" of Western Kurope, owe their 
 unusually damp and misty climate, of course, to their insular position, and 
 
/ 
 
 so 
 
 Tilt: TlhM. TIIAMiy. 
 
 tlu'ir situation as a r..n,U-usiii.i; l.nlwaik for tlw in..i-.tuiv-satuiat.M| wiii.ls 
 tl.i.t l.luw .linrt u|»m tlum from tlu- Noill. Atlai.tir Tl.at .•iirninstann. 
 lias -ivfi. Kii-laiul its ^'m'lim-ss and tiv>lnifss. an.l has in >o far .lilVnvn 
 tiatiMl our native lan.lsnii.r art as a wliolf from tl..- lan-is.!.)..- ail of 
 Soutli.ni Kun.iH-. Our s.rn.iv atnl our piHuivs aiv .u,.!.!-. moist, t. and 
 moiv sulKJuc-d : our outiin.s aiv snfirr. va.ijmr, mo,v portiral. Tin- drlinit.n.>. 
 and sonu-tim.-s -aiisi.iuss ..f Italian lands,ai«s is n.-v.-r s...ii on Kn-lisli 
 soil. Till' clfar skies of Italv iiav i)rodu.<d marv.-ilous rtf.vts in tli.ir 
 own ma-ni!i.vut way; lait it is iai-.l.v to tii.' .listinrtiw t.n.l.-inrss and 
 hazin.ss of til.' Kiiiilisli li-iits tliat wr ow.' tl.c iMMiiliar .nialiti.s of a ('..nstal.lr, 
 a Croiiic. a l>avid ('o\. or a 'rnnur. 
 
 (Jrimy and i.lack as (liavcs.nd looks at |>i.s.nt. it lias Immu a |.la.v of 
 jraioty an.l ijivat pa^'.-ants in larluT .lays wli.n tli.' ski.s w.iv still un.-lnu.l..l 
 l,y smoki'. an.l wlu'ii tli.' "Silv.r Tliam.'s" was still tli.' om- natural high- 
 way I'y whiili all inward-l.oun.l |.ass.iip'rs ai>|iroa.lii'.l tli.- yol.l.-n |.avrd 
 stivi-ts <.f nuMliaval »y Klizal..-tliaii L..ii.l..ii. Tli.' |..«rtioii of tli.- livt-r 
 lu-twi-on Ciawsfii.l an.l LoikLmi I'.ri.lixi' was known as tli.' l-oii.i: Ki'iry : and 
 till- ad).»ininj: manors of Milton an.l iirav.smd lia.l a monopoly ..f tli.- n,!,dit 
 to rarrv travfll.rs ..\.r it ii|> an.l .l.)wn tli.' .-r-.w.!..! maritim.' llioroii-lifaiv. 
 With til.' .x.iuisitv siiii|.li.'it> <.f oM Kii,i.disli maim.rs, tli.' I.oalm.n w.iv 
 l.oun.l l>y tlu' t.'rms of their .liartcr to provi.le Iruss.s of fr.sli straw as 
 beds f.ir the passeii-ers. Wli.'ii .listiii^'uishe.l vi>itors arrive.l in t!i.' ThaiiM's. 
 the Lonl Mayor and Ald.rm.n |.r...'e.'.le"l "lowii tlu' riv.r in th.ir Ljil.l.'.l 
 l.ai-;es t.i wel.-..iii.' tli.ir hi-linesM-s t.. tlii' I'oit of l.on.l.m an.l ush.r th.'iii 
 in a Stat.' |iro.'.ssion up tli.' river of wlii.li tli.-y w.'iv the tra.litioiial 
 c-onservat.irs to tli.- Cuil.Uiall lan.liii.-stairs. With tli.' ura.lual i.ollutioii ..f 
 th.' water, tli.' growth of l,.>ii.lon fou'. tlu- uiiiv.rsal .lisp.'isioii of smok.', 
 an.l the rei.i.ni of imlustrial -looininess -.ri'iierally. all tlies.- pi.-tur.'s.|U.' 
 realisations of the intiiiiat.' eoiui.'.'tion l.etw.'eii th.' City and lli.' Thames 
 have died out utt.'rly. s.. that very f.'W moil.'iii Lon.l.ui.'is in this air.' of 
 railways .-an .'v.'i- a Icniati'ly r.'alis.- th.' -.'1111111. • uiiderl\ iii^- .l.'p.'iid.'ii<'.' 
 of the I'.ritish .apital upon the lar.m'st ami lon^.-st tidal river in the 
 
 wliol.' of Kuroii.'. 
 
 A markeil peeiiliaiity of this Loii;;- Ferry on the Thiimes from tnaveseii.l 
 
/ 
 
 
/ 
 
/ 
 
 i:i;\n:si.\\ti i.w rii.itriiv. 
 
 Ml 
 
 „,, I,, I, lull iWi.lv"' ••uiisisJs ill its .•sMriitinllv iiititlciiil cliariift.T iik ii 
 
 l.:ink..| ii|> lii'.'li l.\.l Htivimi, TIioiihiiimIh of |Hn|.l.- in lli.' I'.iiti.li Miiii.U. 
 
 vs|„, 1,1, VI- Ifiir I rn.ni tli.ir rliil.lli I ii|i»!inl lliiit llir I'm is n.iiliii.'il 
 
 uImii;.' ill! its l.ivs.T nMiiH.- I.y Iuiilt lii"'^ "'' 'Imii'. himI lliiit iIm' Mi-<sis>i|.|.i 
 lluw- lllluic^li III.' I.iivull, nl' l.nllisitllltl lirfWrrll -iv;il I.V.'fH lll.ov.' IIm' 
 
 I, V.I i.f llir >iinnmHlinLr iniirsliliiiMU, liiis'' |>r..l.!il.ly ImiI liltl.' i.l.'ji tliiit llir 
 \ri\ simr lliiiiu' !•- till'' <'f tlir litliil Tliiiiiir> 111 llnir own .I.m.i^, iiihI iIimI 
 
 tlir l.lllNlili-' nl' it- l.llhks li;|. innlV lllfll r IVIllisfll ill.' rMllinll, \'il ..'ilill II 
 
 |,i,.|MIV uf III.' I.ImK.M s,.!1 th.'lt ni-h.'S f.Mtll In ll I ill.' Il!l|.|.> •'"■''l^ "!"• 
 
 ..srrwli.'liii til.' IniNnin.' v\..rK -.1' iii.ii mikI ••s.'ii. On cilli.T linii.l l.'ill 
 ,.i,,luiikin.iil- Imiii ill il- ••..iii-.', I..'tu.'.'n ulii.'li llr ris.'i ll..\\> .'is in im 
 ,.,,,,,r.iihl, -.1 lliiil .11 lini.'> >.iii i"in l.i..k ..viT 'V.." lli.' <l<'<'k ..f ii |iii«.MiiiH; 
 
 .III l<> •Uillilfll-' flll'l illLtW- l\il' '"'■ '" '"' 'I'llf tint.' nf III. 'SI- 
 
 ^l.•.'llln^ .1 
 
 i).r 
 
 ir \ 'I.f iiiMiiciiioriiil .-iiiti 
 
 Ul , " v\\ ft'.'. 'lit iM'ri.MJ 
 
 ini|)<>rt.'inl w.uk^ i-. i|iiili' iiiikiMiwii ; jH"! 
 i|iiil\, |i.'rli:i|i^ I'M'ii lii'iiiiiiin r.iili^li. I 1 
 
 it i^ ,',.|i;iin lli.'it 111"' wIimI,' Tli.'ini.'s .'nIii.'hn i.s l.oii.jun wiis n wi.l.' 
 
 .,,„, ,,f 111.' s.'.i ; ami .iIm.v.' ill.' iiiiiriiic ,|. poils wlii.-li still fovrr llic wli.ili' 
 
 Inu lvin'4- ilrv I., li-lit mimI It'l't. n sli.'.'t ..f rivrr-silt r..iiiis at pivsi'iit tin- 
 
 siiit'ii.M' >..il. lliii-< t.'slityiiiLr t<: 111"' jiTiMliiiil ivclaniatinii <.!' lli.' aiva l».v llif 
 .|,.|insilinn nl' alluviiiiii nv.T ill.' liiliil >\vaiii|.s. |!.'f..iv til.' last a<-t in lliis 
 natiinil j.i.h'.'^s ..!' laml niakin- cniil.l !•.■ t'lill.v t-aiiit'il niil, linwcvci'. niali 
 ^l.■|.|..•.i ill Willi liis inlnisiv.' .'nil.aiikiii.'iils an. I ^liiit ..nl lli.' rivt-r t'..ivil.l> 
 iVnni 111.' siil.i.'M'.'iit Hals ..v.T wlii.-li it was sl.iwl.v -atlicrin- its f.-rtilisinu' 
 Min.l. Ki'i- niaiiv L;vn.'iiili<.n> llif 'liiins -r.'W ...'.•asi..iijilly leaky, aii.l w.- 
 shall pass ^I'MT.'il -|M.ts ..11 .iiir I'lirllnT .'..iirsi' np slrt-ain In L.iiiijoii wliciv 
 .^r,val iiiiiii.hninii- n.'.'iiiT.'.l at vaii.Mis peri. ids ami ..Vfitlnwcl llic ii.'i,uliliuiiriiiy 
 ti.'M, t'nr miles arniin.l. " Tlies.' t'..rini.l.il.le enil.jinkiiienls. " says Dr. Smiles, 
 ••wimliii'^ alnii'.; tlie iiver>i.l.', up fiveks aii<l liil.iitary streams, r.niml islaml.s 
 an.l .'iliniil maisli.s, t'mni l,..ii<lnn l<> tlie nmiilli ..f tlie Tliames. are imt l.'ss 
 tliaii llir.e Immlreil niiler^ in .'Xleiit." 
 
 (»pp..>il.' (Iijiv.'s.'ii.l. on llie Kssex sli..re. tile .pi.'iiiit tiltl reiiiii.'ints ..f 
 TillHiiy i'"..il >lr.'l.'li I'eir I'r.iiil alnii-- llie lieml .'t' tlie liver, ami eall up 
 niiimle.l imiiinii.'s ..r (.lu.'.'ii Kli/;ilM'lli nf of Sli.'i'i.laii's -('ritie.' a.'.'..nliii- to 
 llie rniiiainie ni- l.iirle-.ine turn of tlie imlividiial t'aney. ll is iiiiile a niistak.'. 
 
/ 
 
 S'' 
 
 77//; rin\i. rii\Mrs. 
 
 |l,.\M\.'|-, tn :i,-.^<ifi;ilf tlir <,>ll(rll. ;i^ i> ^o ot'lcll dnlir. v\illi tlir i\i>tiii,ir 
 Tillilir\. Illilr.'.l. till. Mull I'Mlt nf ill.' tnll i- Inlrr.llilx mI.I. :i>. tnrlrr»c.< l:m ill 
 
 (iiir |ii;tci;iMr I'liiuLnii I. II" |inriinii lit' it ciiii li\ .iiiv inc'iii-' ihtc inick ;is 
 
 t'ar ,i-< tlir <i;i\> wlnii Kii/iilnlh iim>tircil In re the | r littlr ;iiiii\ wliirli 
 
 I M. >-,■•->. 1 1 tlif 'uloiinii^ iiit'aliiMtiuii ipf licliisiii',' it'-cit' a |i(i-.^ilili' iiiatcli lur 
 till' S|.;ini>li Arinaila. 'rinrr u<n- in' icuiilar tnrliliiatiiiii> mi llii- >ili' at all 
 ill til.' -iM.riilli (Tiitiirv. iinr till Imiu at't.r ; ami llir caiiiii ulurc llic 
 Karl nt' LcicotiTs fmco \miv a>M'iiiM((l la\ lii-lur up tlir ri\ii' aiitl a 
 littlr iiitainl. laar \\'(-.t 'rillnirv Cliincli. wIuit ^>iiiic riiiiiiaiit> nf tlir tartli- 
 wniK- •>aitl tn lia\c lurii tlimwii ii|> tnr tlnir ii-f iiia\ ^till It mi'Ii. tliuULrli 
 Nii^|iifiiiii> aiitiijiiaiir* jiiciiin iiii'f tlii'iii icalls nt llciiiiaii oiiuiii. (Mily a 
 -lliall Mnckllcillx'. lit" the t\|)f cnllllllull ill tllf ila\s nt lliiirv \ 111., tllcll 
 (•\i-t(il nil llic -«|int nrcU|iiii| \i\ till' llindilll fnlt : allil tlli-> lilnckllnllx' Was 
 
 lia^til\ >tiviiuili.nr(l (liiiiiiu tlic alaiiii nt' tin- Armada liv an iiiufiii'His 
 Italian iiiuiiHri. Tlir nldc^t |iait nt' tlic I'ltxiit 'rilliiirv I'm t \\a> ntrtcd 
 in tllf iii-ii nt' Cliailt-. II.. afttr tlir Ihitrli tlrit liad >ai!rd \i|> tlir 
 .Mrduav. and wlirii .Mr. ^rl^\■^ liiiii-i It' i|Uaiiitly nl.Mr\rd in llir rniitidrnt iai 
 llllH-rr\r nf |ii> n\\ n r\|ilirr diai\. " |-",\rl\ lincly nn\\ada\> Irtlrrts ll|in|l 
 (>li\rr and mniiiiriids liini. what luavr thin.;- Iir did. and niadr all tlir 
 iiriLihliniii- |iiiiii'r- t'rar him.' Mn-t nt' thr r\i>tiii'U' I'uildiii'..; i- mndnn. and 
 a.- dr\nid nf .irrhilrrtiiral luaiitv as thr trriirial inn nt' iiindnii t'ni i itirat inns ; 
 
 lillt thr ualrwav and a t'lW ntlnr n|d liils ut' Wnik rrdrrin thr Intal rtVrrt 
 llnlil thr aiti-tir |inilit nt' \ irW , alld tlir lii:: l;IIIIs air -lltlirirllt tn drlllnli>li 
 
 aii\ iattrrda\ irninlail armadas that ini'jlit |in>sili|y in t'lituic attrni|it lu 
 
 Wrdi;r tliril Wa\ U|t thr W rll-drt'rildrd I'rarhr- nt' tlir tidal Thalllrs. 
 
 Iiniind the rniiin l>y Tillniry Knit thr ri\rr hrLriiis tu naiinw rnii 
 -idri (lp|\. and tn In-r tlir uifatri' jiait i>\' its -tia'ULdiiiL: irtliiriit rstiiaiinr 
 
 ajiiirai aiirtv 
 
 W 
 
 air iinw III (ira\> <>i 
 
 Nnlthllrrt llnlir. alnl shall I 
 
 i;t\r 
 
 iinthin'j liiit \ri\ jilaiii sailiiiLT lirt'nir lis all thr ic.-t nt' uiir way tn tlir 
 
 i|na\> nf Lnlldnli. I'alrWrll tn thr |n||'.^ rlfrks alld Ilialshy islrs alld limad 
 
 -allnw -aiidiiaiik- nf mii' Inwrr jniiriirs . tlir -tiai'.:lit mad to tlir .L;ifat I 'nil 
 
 alnljr iriiiailis — a littlr tnrtllnl|>. In I ir >lllr. ill its Ililirtrrli Irarlirs, li||t still 
 
 -trai'_dit riinii_di in tin- si !i-,r that wr -hall li,i\r im nmir di\ rr-riirrs n|- 
 ]ilt'a.sant >ii!r cuts in fiituir -nnly thr main hiudiinad uf mndnn I'.iitisli 
 
\J^ 
 
 Cli.WHSr.Mt AM> TiLiivny. 
 
 8D 
 
 utilitariiiM oounufrctv Tlio hunks draw in to rijijlit and left, givin*,' us a 
 cU-ar view of liotli shores at (»iico for the first time on our upward voyage. 
 On one side NortliHeet town displays its elialk-liurning ehinineys ; on the 
 othiT. the new Tilliuiy Doeks oceupy the low region long known to livei- 
 iiaunting folk as West Tilimry Marshes. The bit of luxuriant greenery to 
 the so\ith is JJosherville (lardeiis. that famous self-advertised purveyor of a 
 
 'i' '-iJ^'. 
 
 '•> -'J 
 
 '• iv'.. ■ 
 
 -^v^^-Villy^ 
 
 < l.MKM HiiIlK^, NOHIIIH.F.l-.l' lliil'K. 
 
 happv day : its niiinie eiags eonsist of the harder masses of chalk left 
 behind as usi'Iess during the exeavations of the lime-works, and Ien<l them- 
 selves I'Ifectivi'ly enough to the artificial allurements of the landscape gardener's 
 art. Some of them indeed, weathered by exposure and overrun with 
 ivv, are not devoid of that real picturesipieness so generally as.sociated with 
 the green-grown tlinty layers of every disused ehalk-pit. Their hideous 
 title has lieeu compounded from the name of their first proprietor, one 
 .leremiah Kosher, and that horrid un-Knglish termination I'ilh', which seems 
 so increasingly dear to the unspeakable taste of the British vestryman. 
 Strange that with all .lur wealth of beautiful native terminations for local 
 names — Imiii, and wm-Hi, and //oyx-. ;ind A//, and hitln', and (l<n, and //'//•// — 
 Englishmen should positively go out tif their way to adopt so strange and 
 uglv a vulgarism as that distressful Frenchifie<l vi'h'. The new Tilbury Docks 
 form out' of the latest additions to the acconunodation of the Thames, as 
 thev have not yet been fully completed, by the bend in the channel whose 
 outer point bi-ars vwn yet the Norse pirate's name f>f Tilburyne.ss. Indeed, 
 it is said tlwit to protect the church tower of Northfleet from river cor.sairs 
 
84 
 
 77//; /7/>l/. 7//M//>. 
 
 fwn at a far lat.T lu'vio.! it was nr.vssar.v m inn. it into a fml. Just as 
 Milos Stan.lish n.ount.-.l Lis l.iaz.Mi Imwit/.T .... tl.»- sttvph- ..f New ri.vn.u.itl. 
 ohapfl. "A pivadi.T that s|«.k.- to tl..- i-nipos... o.tl.o.l..\. tlasl.in- .oi.vi.tinn 
 rijiht into tlu- Ill-arts of tl.r liratlicn. ' Tl..- san..- so.i ..f .vli-i.Mis ai-mn.nl 
 [iniitittlx mutaiiiUs) was laiL'.'lv .•n.|.Io>.'.l .'n s.'V.'ial ...rasioi.s l.y oiir .ally 
 Ki.,irlisli am-i-stois a-ainst tl..- foolish Miuph-s ..f tl..- ( ).lin woishipimi- 
 Soainlinavian paLraiis. 
 
 As \u' l.i-at 11). th.- t;iav.'s,.ii.l U.-adi. l..'t\v.-.'i. Ho>h.Tvill.- an.i (I..- 'nUMny 
 
 D.K-ks. till- skipi^t-r shouts t.. lis froii. tl..- fon-.-astl.'. "Look ...it' port your 
 
 ht'liu. Ih-iv's anoth.-r Sn.l.hi. l).-atli lifariiiLT down u|.on i.s in full swii.-." 
 
 Wo lo..k tip. an. I s.m- in fnmt ..f iis a swift Unt v.ry .hiinsy-lookini: st.-aiii.-r. 
 
 i.lou.'hin-- ht-r wav i.oisilv thr-.n-h th.- wat.-r. as if all tl..- Tl.ani.-s w.iv h.r 
 
 own privat.' fr.'.li..l.l aii.l small ya.-hls lik.- ..uis w.i.- n..ivly nnantl...ii>.-.l 
 
 trespassi-rs on h.r Un.a.l .l..ii.aii.. .I.s.-r\inj; to I..- pros.riil.'.l with th.- ntn...-t 
 
 rijr.uir ..f till- niaritin..- law. ii..lf..l, sh.- s.'.n.s in.-lin.-.l to intli.-t s.iiiiniary 
 
 iiistict- forthwith np.n. ..ur invsiiniptuoiis littl.- .raft for th.' atro<'i,.ii- .-rin..- 
 
 of .lariii.i: to i-\ist at all. foi' sh.- tro.-s straight ah.-;i.l. whi.l. .-x.-r way -nits 
 
 hrr l.fst. iVL-anlh-s.-, of int.-rvfi.ii.L: ol.sta.-l.-s .ir of that i.iysl.rioiis ami 
 
 rlnsivi- .ntity. - th.- nil.- <'f tl..- n.a.l at s.'a " W.- i.-c.>i:i.isr h.-r tra-h- aii.l 
 
 i.atiiiv at on.-.-, partly f.-oi.i h.r p.-.-iiliar hiiihl. an.l p:irtly loo IVoiii h.r -till 
 
 inoiv pt-c.iliar ami .-harai-t.-risti.- mam.. is. Sh.- i> a tish cMiri.'r l.n.ii..l foi' 
 
 thf North Sea. wh.'r.- she picks np tish f.-.>m th.- trawl. -.s aii.l .ithfr sn.acks, 
 
 an.l hnrri.-s up with th.-i.i h. •.■.11. -.sly at full s| .1 to ;ill-.l.vni.iiiiu^ l;illiii<:s- 
 
 Lrati-. Thi-si- fi>l.-.-arri.-rs art- very wild ami ijm'.rly iia\ii;atf.l v.-s^-ls ; 
 
 their .im- Lrr.-at jtoii.t i-. ih.-ii- swiftm-ss. ami li.yoii.l that tli.iv i- ii..thi.iL' 
 
 .)!. i-arth t.t h.' sai.l in th.i.- favour, 'i'h.-y aiv v"''i'''!'".^ >iippo-.-<l t.i Im- 
 
 iitti-rly inmn-.-nt of .-harts an.l na\ i-atioi. ; th.'ir wh.il.- .-unniiiu' <■< ii-i-ts in 
 
 ihisliiiij: rapi.lly .lowi. ri\.-r in th.- >lrai-l.t.M j.os-il.l.' line to.- (>i for.l...s^, 
 
 an.l tl.t-n n.akii.L' hohlly f-.r a jioint in -pa.-.-, -in. at. .I som. wh.if .(Imiit ll..- 
 
 r.Hljih t-fi.ti-.- .>f thf (i..ii.an O.-.an. wh.-..- th.-\ hop.- (o fall in will, the 
 
 rishiii;.' tl.-.-t. rn.l.al.ly ih.iv is fo- al.o.il. ;iml the ti-h can i.f whisll.s 
 
 thro..;.'!, it v.'h.ni.M.lly with tl..- L'r.at.-sl .....lacilx . Pi.-.-iilly she i.ic.ts ;i 
 
 l.clat.-.l ^■a.■n..lnll. lisl..ii..an. •• Wl.civ's tl..' H..ir' shoi.t- ih.' .•;!;.taii.. 
 
 '■ Down to looa.il." shoiit> hack th.- -niack with In.-.lly .■.ml.i-.iit\ . p.iiiitiiiu 
 
 (. 
 
M. 
 
1 
 
 f 
 
in;.\n:s/:.\/i .\.\/> rii.innv. 
 
 M.") 
 
 V!ij,niclv ;i <liiii li.'iinl to tlic iiorciist. liiiiiUMliutfly the i-anicr stiiil»oiii(ls lit-r 
 helm, iiiid ruslics oM" iiiudly under nil steiiiii in the <liivctioii iiKlicatiMl. 
 
 S .T or liiter she liills in with sonic tiiiwlfis ni' other— no matter whom : 
 
 all is tish aliUe that n.mes to the carrier's net. In rather less than no 
 lime the haul is transt'cired to hei' capMcious maw, and oft' she yocs auain. 
 makini,' convulsively foi' anotiier point, in space, this time supposed (more 
 or less correctly) to he occupied l>y the Shipwash or ( )il'ordness. Her one 
 olijcct in life is to j,'et up to l'.iilinj,'sj,Mte while the tish are still tVesli ; and 
 provided she can accomplish that solitary final cause of her much-ol.jur<;ate(l 
 existence, she recks l.nt little of lesser fry like yachts or Itiirj^es. The other 
 
 craft u| the river do not usually speak with fervid atlection of the 
 
 hurryint,' tish-c;irriers. Indeed, their langua^^- on the suhject is ai»t to he 
 sprinkled with an unneee.ssary wealth of the chi»icest and richest marine 
 expletives. 
 
 v.'* - ^ 
 
 j"-4' 5f<- • 
 
 wvtyi'i.jA^ 
 
 Miiiriin.i;KT. 
 
/ 
 
 ^kx. 
 
 4.. .JL 
 
 S' 
 
 »il>l>I.Kii » iii:a< m 
 
 CHArTKIl Vlll. 
 
 KimM KiMii.iiis i;i;.\< II i'» rritKiKirv. 
 
 UK liff (if tlif iiiiilillf 'l"liuims is nmiv iiitiiiitcly v.iiifil .-iiiil 
 niultitariiMis tliaii tliat cd" any dtlitT >tictcli nf wattT rrr>li. 
 or >alt. or Inackisli — <»ii tin- wlmlc t'aif nf tin- iiaviLTalilr carlli. 
 It i> imt iiu'iilv IViiiii tin- >\i\\>s jiuinjr up ami <I(i\mi ctaM'U'ssly 
 (ivtT its suifacc tliat tlic river lii-rivt-s its siiiLrniai' iiitcnst ; 
 tlu'if art' all the rrlativt-ly fixnl dcmfiits ut' tin- scfiic as well tn ilivfisifv 
 and individualise tin- ditVcii-nt riaclics as we pi alniiM;. Iltic, it is a lit tic 
 wiMidfii jiiiT with small pa-siiimT stianids discliar^riiiji tlitir living' tViii:lit 
 jKT|M'tuallv U|iiiii it> iiiistliii;,' wliail" ; tlifif. it is a I'mx -Imat fVuiii siili' t<i 
 side, cunvi-viiiu' liatcln's of railway travellers aeiuss tlie seveiiii;r >treain 
 lietweeii Kent and Kssex ; and ynnder a;.'^ain it is a mw nf innnlderiiiL.' 
 disused l»ar;.'e-.. lyin^^ liy against the withering' ;ireen slime of the tidal mud 
 and seiviii;: fni- a private mark t<t the numeidus small liuats that |il\ U|i 
 and dnwn the liusv <-eiitral swim from iiiurn tn evenin<r Clnse liv it i'^ a 
 
/ 
 
 ninn.r.irs hhmii td i'ui!I'i.i:i:'i\ 
 
 .^7 
 
 
 |M.\\rit'iil (Inilunr. iIk' Siini/i^iiii i>y tlii' (^mrn //-c, with !i |MTtrrt licet of Imi.hv 
 wuikiis -iillidvil iniiinl lirr. I mi rites :iimI l.iill.ist liylitns ciiiTyiiij,' itwjiv the 
 tlivil-iiiys !is tiisl iis tlicv ciiiiif lip tVfiiii llie ^liiiiv iMittuiii. Tlif 'I'liiiitv 
 lt!ill;isl liulilfi-, ill liirt. is tin- ii^-Ticst vessel on llie whole river: iilioiit the 
 sliMpe of liiilt' .-I Wiilliilt shell, with :i lilliip of ;i iiiasl the siiliie tliiekliess 
 1,11 the \\;i\ M|> tiiiiiMiiiu forw.inl o»(r the cliniisy liow. At the iniist-lieinl 
 is iiiiiied iiisteail of viiiie all iiu'ly Itoanl Iteaiiiij; the ship's iniiiilier. These 
 (jiicer eiaft are said, for soine al)striise reason, to lie worked l»y Welsliiiieii. 
 At one plaee as wt' proceed, a iiimilier of Hoatlii^' private Imoys mark the 
 accii>loiiied lierths (.f ricli iiien's yachts ; at another, a riverside yard shows 
 the liare tindu'is and shattered ti,Lruredieads of stramled vessels now lu-iii^' 
 liioUeii lip in dejected fashion for the value of their wood and old metal. 
 A mermaid, minus the nose, stands for an ornament in a retired skipper's 
 c,,tia-e uardeii . I'.rltaniiia, torn from the prow of some wrecked ITull 
 collier, -iiards the l.laek and diisty precincts of a villa^^e npal-yard. Some- 
 times it is a .ureat heavy trainin.y-ship for hoys, like the /union//, or the 
 Shaft' shiini. that stamps its token on a )tarticuliir lieiul or reach ; sometimes 
 it is tlie JMi.^v swiii,<,'inx ,L,siteways of a deep-cut dock: or the mastless liull 
 of a lloaliim- Seamen's Hospital mooi'cd l>y the shore; or the white fa<;ade 
 .^'i a ioiiu stucco mansion l.ohlly fronting,' the lively river. I'p and down 
 l.etweeii these permanent features in the l>usy scene, an endless procession 
 of steamers, ships, and harycs moves for ever in clian,ueful panorama. \V\\i 
 l.laeU liiills of piisseii-er liners to Australia or the Cape : smaller and Itri^htcr 
 Channel packets for .\ntwerp, Osteiiil, or Houloone ; noisy self-assertive little 
 (ii-s. with putlin-- eiiuines ; uriniy colliers from the northern ports ; hu,i,'e 
 sailiii- m.rchantmen fn.ni east or west : all pass on, inward or outward, 
 with el.l. or flow, niuht and tlay, in uninterrupted ea.i-er stream. It is a 
 constiint feast to sit on deck with a binocular, and read the names and 
 ports of each, as they coiiveruv here from every region of the civilise<I w<irld 
 ill one nanowinu,' and ever narrower watt'ry patiiway. 
 
 The ('i,tni„iri from Mclliourne. four thousand tons if she's a i>eniiy\vei,uht. 
 ..lie of til.' i>i.-t.;vst of the Orii'iit Line (liut not s.. l.i.y- by a .yood bit as 
 the Aiislral that passed us, outward liound, a week since or thereabouts, in 
 I'rince's Chamu'l) has just steamed by in full i,dory, tu,i,'s in atti'iidance. 
 
,H,S 
 
 ////; II in I. Tin MI'S. 
 
 IImu's llvili.i:. :mi.I iMimui. siiv;.inlii..'. nv'hIi iI'-' •■nin|uii> - t nni.T .•..„-|.i.mmii,|\ 
 
 .|U,.bN,.l IV l..r niMin maM ... :.ll ■ -- Tl,. i. llnr.'^ tl- »io,,lull;, 
 
 1'„.>l. (■,,..„ III.' (•;.!..■, M.'.nnit.u U|. ■•. lilll.' l..liiM.I li.i :.ii.l ih.' Imv.' I'lnir'nin 
 
 .l/,„„„,A. ..ulvMM.l I...U.1.I r... N.NN N..iK. ;i v.«,n M. imim.h , mi- ili.' l-^-r 
 
 iVv ; an. I L.-i-l. ili.ui lli-' •/■"'"' ■""' •/■".'/ '"i-- '""" Suu.l. riaii.l, ii..ll,iii- 
 ,.,l,,-,>|,r.l l.\ llnii ..N.c.win- pivMii.v. ;in.l i.|..Mjiiiij ..l.-ii- a- |.|..ii.IIn ii^ 
 ll,n,i.Ji III.' vnIi.'I.' ilN.i ^^'K' li" I'lixat. l.:illiu;i> all. I all ill.' "lli'i- 
 
 ,„vn|.aiil. U.I.' .1 -li.- -aiil. -I' Hi. I""ll.^ "^^'"i N-'H-i-V- a Lillv i...\ 
 
 tVnin Ih.' I,iii...lii^liiiv .-..aM. tial aii.l -lual ami .ul -li-'rl at .illi.r . ii.l I., 
 .nil III.' |...'iiliai' r.'.|iiir.'iii.'iil> ..I' li'i aiiii.liil.i..u^ .si-i, n..' I'.'i l.ill> l-v- 
 
 , tV..m III.' 1...U .ii.'imilM'iv.l .aiiaK ami ri\.i- .'I' lli'' llmiil"|-. iiaiiiii- 
 
 ,ii,,>lly IV..III tl..' |...ll- "f Hull. <;...■!.'. aii.l lli.' lik. an.l u„ ul,,n,.f>. i^ootln 
 th.y ai.' .'.iiially a.lai.l.'.l f-.r i.a\ iuat i..|i .illi-r "ii lli-' -'a '•'• ""i inlaii.l 
 lis,.,. Wh.ii Ml.' I.ill.x l...\ .l;.k's t.. Mil, >li.' >i.i.^ iiiaM^ aii.l h.-i-i- -'.iU. 
 ;,im| .Mil. a \.r,\ r.-|M'.-tal.|f apiMaiaiu'c ..!' a .Imii-v Uin'l a- a -i-.u -ailinu 
 v.>s.>l : uli.'ii -li.' i.a.li.- li.T iiativ.' liv.r -Im' .I-vmi- ma-l a-aiii. aii.i 
 
 |.r,.iiil,tl\ lraii-.f..rin> li.i-..lf l.\ a liaMs iii.tai i.li..-i^ iiiL. an ..i.linarv 
 
 ,.;,„,.,] l.ar'_'.'. I'-nl a> tli.' I.M'k- ..ii lli.'>.' t'.nlan.l wat.i- ar.' ratli.r .1.-.' 
 tnir.tluT, tlif l.ilh-l'ov lia> t.. 1..' l.nill i.. m.-a-ui.'. -.. a- .Aa.tlv L- lill lli.m 
 
 wli.'ii.'f it i'..nif> t.i jia— that Inr ..iitlin.' i> a- niiicli 
 
 lik. that ..!' till' -l.ai 
 
 l..'t\s..ii th.' t\N'> -liii.-.- ..f a |...'k. .jii>l a littl.- .ul a\Na\ int.. t- in ..i M.iii 
 ;,t ..itlirr til. I, a- it i- iH.-.il.l.' f..i a ..•a\\..i tli\ l...at .-. ii\ .ni. lit 1\ L. <'.tn|.a-- 
 
 'I'll.-.' at-.' a few -liax >|..>.-ini.ii> ..I' iIk' -..il "f ''lall \..n ai.' lial.l.- 1.. .ih nl.r 
 
 at aiiv 111. .III. Ill on >..Mi wav up iIm' -L'W ni.aii.l. i inu /i'j/a-> ..I' thr iiii.hllc 
 
 Tliatii.'- I'.'acho. 
 
 Ti.l.' tail.'.! U-. :is we l.iat with .lilli.nlt \ up N..i'l hll.'.'t II. .p--, an.l .'..in 
 ,„.ll,..l u> t.. Ii.' I.> \'^^v III.' ni'^hl at (iia\ > 'riiiiii...'k Tli.i.' aif thivf 
 
 i,.ii.,iiiin- \illa-.x iM'aiiiii: tlii- ...mi i nam.', an.l .li-t in-ni-hf.l ri..iii -.n-' 
 
 aiM.th.i' l.v i-i.tix.- a. W'-t ■|'liiiii.-.-k. lirav-- 'l'hun...'k, an.l Lilll.' ■|'hiHT...'k. 
 'I'll.' I.ri-k \\at.r>i.|.' t'.wii wilh ih"' pi'i' an.l l..a.-..n wh.i.- w.' .I'.l I" pa-s 
 th.- iii-ht .|.ri\.- it- tii-l till.' tV..ni th.' <ii.\ tainils. wh-. W'l'' l<'i ~"iuf 
 cntuii.-. I..nl- ..r Ih.' iiian..i It i -.•..l..-i.all\ rain..ii> IV.. m il- .■\p..-iiiv 
 
 nt' th.' liiaiiii.' .|.p...it- \\hi<-h pi'..\.' ih-' 'riialii.- \all.v L. ha\.' li.'.li an 
 ,,p,.ii inl.'t ..r Ih.' Ma a> lat.' a- ..r lat.r than th.' -ivat l<-.' A-r. 'I'hr 
 
 
/ 
 
 M 
 
 M 
 
/ 
 
 
FiDDLEn's i:i:.\t'ii ro rvnri.Eiyr. 
 
 89 
 
 HTc'iVfl iiinl Inickcjirtli iiiid Injim nf tin' iicinlilHUiilioud cunsist of tlit- shingle 
 iiiiil iimd It'll lifliiiid liy tlic rctiiiiij;- fmid, iiiid the icc-lloc tlint succccdt'd 
 it ; ;iiid in tlifin liavc liffii discovt'i'cd the rciiiidiis of the iiiniimidtli, tlii" 
 liiMiv iliiiinrci'os, till' lii|)|Mi|H)t iiiiiiis. tilt' 111 rj;t'-lu'iitlt'tl w iltl-liiirst', tlu' wliiti' 
 (•■•ittli' fiiiii tilt" f;nt' ht'jir, idl tiC wliii-li wcit' liuiitrd niiioiin' tlif iK'iylil»t)iiriii,y 
 lliits ii\ tlif iiiitivt' l)l;ick-si\iiiiit'd s;iv;i,ut's tif tlii' DltltT Sttjiif \>f{\ \\\ fiir 
 till' iiinst illtt'^t'slill^• c'liiKiiiu' tlif I'li^sii rt'iiitiiiis t)t' (Ir.'iy's Tluirriiflv, Imwcvt'i-, 
 iHf tlic I'lii^iiit'iits lit' ;i liuiii.'iii si<t'lt'tnii tlisfovt'i't'tl litTc ;i sliort tiiiu' ln't'iiri' 
 tilt' ;iiri\,'il of tilt' /'/(///// ill till' w.'ittTsitlt' |tit'r. iiinl iilfiitilii'd liy I'rnti'ssnr 
 Ouni iis iiiidniiltti'dly tlinst uf ;i piilii'olilliif iiiiiii. 'I'liis ftirly liiiiitor tif tin- 
 Tliiiiiit's vjilIt'S' ii'st'iiililt'd s(iiii"wli;il ill typf tlii' lowest fxistiii^;' Aiistnilian 
 Itliick I'l'lliiws; liiit liis liiiil)s and R'atinrs wciv still iiiori' lii'iital ami apr- 
 liUc ill as|u'ft. anil liis slia,n,uy t'yi'lunws were sn])|it>itt.'tl on a soliil iiroji'ctinu' 
 JMiiiv lioss, fxtrt'ini'ly like tliat wliii'li uivi's tlie gorilla its torrildy tirri-o ami 
 awsdiiic ('\|in'ssii)n. 'I'lii' loi't-'lu'ail of tliis eai'ly ruff was likewise liestially 
 low aiitl receilinL;. wliile tlie canine teetli wfie large and |iri>niinent. in a 
 lasliiuii remotely reiiiinding one of the huge tusks wliieli generally prevail 
 among the anthropoid apes. As we sit here on tieek, pulling the eontem- 
 plative clierout ami watiliing the eeaseless roll of eommeree unfolding itself 
 eoiiliniiallv Itefoit' our eyes, it is hanl to replaee in faney the tU'iise jungle 
 throiiuli which this primitive hunter pursiietl the wary Irish elk or stalketl 
 the gigantic maiiimotli among the ilesniate salt-marshes of a still liulf-frozou 
 anil all luit unpeopled prehistoric (Jray's Tliurrock. 
 
 Karlv next morning we get under way once nu)re. for we have a lot 
 i<\' sketching to work through during the tlay, anil the interest of the river 
 thickens upon us with every further advance up the narrow ing wedge. We 
 round jiioailness mi the opposite Kt'iitish liaiik — note all along how the 
 intiii^ive Scandinavian pirates have fixed the terniiuoldgv of thest- river 
 lieiid>— anil give a wide hertli to the i'.lack Shelf to northward, a well- 
 named iiaiik. steep to (III the river-froiil. which dries and wi'lters tlarkly in 
 the sun at low water. Tide runs very narrow hetwt'en liroatliiess and lUack 
 Shelf, sii that all ha\t' to keep well in the central current. {''lood ami 
 ctili liotli set strongly on the I'llack Shelf, and only by sticking close to 
 the main titleway can ships get the full lieiietit of the title. The .short 
 
w 
 
 rUE rilKM. THAMES. 
 
 Iiciid lliat ojH'iis lu'loic lis lulwf.'ii dray's 'riiunnik ami ( liv.Miliillu" is St, 
 Clrnu'iit's ..r iM.l.ll.'r's llcacli. tlir fust i>it of |.ivlly iir.vii sivii.-rv nf a nisli.- 
 or I'.iikft Fust, TV t.v|M' tliat «!■ lia\r v.t iii.t witli nii mir wa.v up tlic -nin, 
 i^ri'V ri\fr. It iIitIm's its first iiaiiic of St. ('Iciiuiit- fioiii tlic |>ictiirf>i|iic 
 littlf .•liiiii'Ii la till' wat.T's ,■.!.;,• upon tlic Kss.'x >lioiv ; a cliaiiniiii: small 
 l)cc(.ratrtl Imil.liiii: with a s.niaiv tower ami a few ivmarkaMi- modern 
 iiiil>i-ovi-im'iits ill tlif familiar cliiiifliwanlfii stvlr of archil, •ctinc Tli,' alter- 
 native title of Kidiller's Iteacli is saiil to lie ,ln,' to ;in elalioiat,' v;,il,ii's 
 jok,' : tlie \\at,'r in tlie eliannel is tlnown 1>\ li<l<' an<l eiirrent int.. an 
 iiTi'j,Milar jnm|tin,Lr motion, so tliat, tlie s;iilor> sjiy. yon eaii liere lta\e 
 ilaufin^' without th,' ,-\|>,'n>e I'f liihllimi. 'riic -ifen -ra-s ami tree> arouii<l 
 St. ('leiiii-nt's rliureli. with the |ileasanl mea«low> and woo<ls iM'himI the 
 mill, ami the mo,-k (lotliie towers of Uelniont Castle on the low down 
 in the distan,-,'. form a very am-,'ealile ,hanu,' in the iiieliir,' after I h,' 
 somewhat moiiot,-nous r,'|ietition of liniun >ea water and dim r,c,'dinLr 
 slioiv tlii-oimh which our path has Iiitheito for the nio->t part uninter- 
 rnptedly lain. 
 
 To sit on ,leek ami sk,'tch cpiietly in tiiese upper reaches. how,'\,r. is 
 a verv ,litf,rent ihiiiir from to^-jiiLT al'oui in rain and wind aiiioiiL; the 
 mist\ samlliauks that catch and int,'nsit'y th,' Iohl; ^we,piii.; roll .if t he 
 N.iith Sea liillow> off the Kenti>h l>own>. or the K»e\ niirsiilaml. It 
 may I.e nior,' ,'onifoit,di!e. Iml it is crtainly a \.'st deal more pro-.iic. 
 Moll' iiioxaic in action, that is 1,1 siy ; for a^ fir a^ nur,' ,'\t,riial .jlijects 
 j^fo. th,' '.^i^'at ri\er has its own appropriate and niai\,llons pnetry in ,\,i\ 
 part. The hoy- who t,iHl tlu' hea\y ,-oal liar-fs. the lnow n faced old 
 skiplici-s who lean o\,>r the -id,' and -lioiit thiir conimaiid> in stentoii.in 
 Voice-, the liion/.ed -ailoix who -tami waitiiii: on ,leck to olnv the nio>t 
 liastv order in the throiiLrcil mid chaiiml — the>e firm thi' chief elenieiit- o| 
 tile -cell,' that ulide- liefoii' oiir ,v,'s ;is wf drift -lowly aloiiu ; ami these, 
 with other like feature-, crowd thicker and eloper upon 11- e\ery inonient 
 a- We collie nearer and nearer from day to ilay to the noi-y i|iia\- of ,dl 
 ali-orliinu: London. Ksp,'cially in thoe c.ilnur re.n'he- lietwcen <irave-eiid 
 and I'nrtleet i- the crii-li alwa\- rather noticealile. in old da\s many 
 -hip- ii-ed to lie li\ here a little on one -ide of the ci'iitral roadway, w.iitiiiL;- 
 
rilUHEIVS REM'Il TO PURFLEET. 
 
 m 
 
 (licir turns to !••• iliily ;nliiiittf<l to tlic TpiK-r and Lowit Tools. Only ii 
 (•( itain niinilHT of sliips at a time were la-iniittt'd to take tlioir ]tla('c's in 
 
 tlx 
 
 .sc I 
 
 •livilcuvd watcis ; and tlic surplus population of t lie Tlianios was thus 
 conipelltd to lit- Ity till room was found foi- it as vacancies chanced to 
 
 occui- in 
 
 tl 
 
 e neait-r inooi 
 
 the upper real 
 
 inys. And thou,nh steam has now chanjued all that, 
 •lies are still everywhere thickly crammed with eonj,a'sted 
 
 iippini 
 
 It is this that uives so 
 
 much chanii and vividness to these 
 
 crowded and vivacious strips of river. Ships, .sliijis, ships, <;atlier closely 
 verv side, and atlord an endless succession of wonderful 
 
 together here on i 
 
 na 
 
 tural 
 
 pictures. 111 every va 
 
 vaiielv of mood and colour. 
 
 |)iill minds see lieauty in hardly anything. Formal niimls .see beauty 
 only ill the one iiarticiilar style or oltject on which they have chosen to 
 lavish their narrow atVections. They are so tdtsorhed in Oriental blue that 
 no merit to N'eiii'tian ulass ; thev are so centred on (Jiotto, 
 
 tliev can allow 
 
 or 
 
 IJotticelli. or Fra .\ii^elico, that they can spare no lovi 
 
 to J 
 
 toninev or 
 
 lleyiiolds, or mere contemporary Wattses and iA'i;;litoiis ; they are so entirely 
 (!• to (leoiye Kliot that thev can si'c no j^'ood points in 
 
 devoted to Mieiiev 
 
 leiinvson. o 
 
 r Swi 
 
 ind all-sided mind see; 
 
 iliuriie, or Thackeray, or lMeldiii,u. lUit the more expansive 
 Iteaiitv aftt-r its own kind in almost all created 
 thiiius. It all depends upon the way you choose to look at them. Mud in 
 itself is not lovely, but iiiiul with the full .sunli.uht shimnierin-;- on its 
 op;ilesceiit surface: mud with the small .sea streams coursin-;- over its dee[) 
 brown mass in a thousand tiny crystal channels; mud moist from the ebbinjj; 
 sen and purpled liy the rellected afterglow of a lurid sunset : mud deeply 
 scored bv sea-birds' leet and tlecked over here and there by h\>i white 
 mills and tall ,i;ii'y archiiiL; necks of lon^leuuiMl herons— mud seen under 
 any of these diverse aspects by ;iii observant i-ye has in it the "promise 
 and potency " of whole untold treasures of i.ictoiial wealth. .\iid what is 
 thus true of the chief compoiu'iit element of tlu- tidal Thames with its 
 surroundinu' biisiii is e.pially true of the shiftiii.u' mass .if .sails and hulls and 
 bo;its and barges that ,u<> to till in the .u'ciieral .»utliiie. The dull eye sees 
 in it nil ,,iilv a niudily yellow river, covi'ied with coal-boats, steamers, and 
 .screw -tii-s. I'.ut look closer at the muddy yellow v'wvv. and you will find 
 a thousand wonderful lints and uii.lertoiies of melting olive-',nveii and 
 
;i,. 77/ a; Tin.M. TIIAMF.S. 
 
 tluskv l.n.wii ;iii(l t.iwiiy clicsiinit ; 1(M.k tli>s.'r at tlir liii.' nf mix.'.l .iiul 
 :i>m.iIimI sliiii|.iiii;. .>\u\ \.m will liml an a^tuiiixliiiii; variilv ..f Iniilil an. I liu' 
 
 mil t'uMi-tiiiii anil nalinnalit v, a |H'il'rrt nniM'wni 
 
 il' na\al airliilrfluri'- tin' 
 
 l.ii: nri'aii-giMii.ir rli|.|«'i' nr tin' ^aurv \arlit. tlir primilivi' tlirri-nia>ti'i| 
 rlia>v inaii'i- I'mni tlif |iiiit> I't' tin' l.i'in'. it m 
 little inu-'lin ciiitaini'il wiinlnws i>n i-arli >iilr <'!' tl 
 
 miil---ti'.(i'il uallii't^ witli 
 
 i«'ii- wiMiilrrtnllv rai'\r»l 
 iiiililiMs. or -ivat Mark prt r..li'uni A\\y> I'mni Ani.Tiran purt-. nnl-.ailin- tin- 
 liluf liani'ls intn liarirr^ in the lower leaelies i.ii-an>e not alloweil In 
 disrliarui' tlieir ear-o up ni'aivr j.onilon. I'l\ei\ t liinu aiouml ^nulU of tlie 
 tVesh Inine ami tlie not unplea>ant rottiii;;- M'a-weeil. Wliitls of --weel tar, 
 tellinir ot' the jov of oie;iii. eoine to u> with the liiee/e fioin esirv paxsin;^ 
 vessel. At ilawn the vellow ha/.e li-ht^ up the l.laeU linlU with the lelleeteil 
 Lclare tVoni the iilooil leil water: at ■<unM't the tanneil sails of the rmlily 
 Itaruf* ul'>\v with the -ohlen ,l;Ioi\ of the western -K_\. 'I'lie eieakiu'^ of 
 the ropes on their LTinaninu I'lofk-. the rattle of chains auain>I the rlankinu' 
 lia\\>epipes. the ili>sonant shouts of fair-haireil Kn;.'lisli mariners ami ilu-k_\ 
 Italian seamen ami swarthy I...-,'ar>. all fall with ileli-hlfnl eaihiiee on the 
 li-.teninLr ear ami sU;^i:est inimnieiaMe moti\e> for that music ot the sea 
 which no composer has i\ei- yet fitly attempted What wealth of colour 
 ami foini ami life ainl motion on every siile , what enilles'- pictnre>ipieness 
 amoiiL: the wateisiilc slip> ami whaivc^ and wareliou>c^! Trnlv imleeil 
 has Carlvle >aiil that the eye sees in e\cr\ lliiu'^ what the e\e itself lirin^-^ 
 with it the piiwci- of sccinu Ami with our arti->t-interiiriter to nail the 
 varied interest of the tidal 'i'lianies for n- all ari-ht. we slnndd lie liliml indeed 
 if we coidd not discern il- multiform l>eauty in every side. a> we inat up 
 the swellin- current of St ClemeiitV llcach. with the whole lixiuL: picture 
 shiftiii;,^ e\erv moment hefore our e\e>. like a \a-t kalciilo>co|ie of maritime 
 exi>tence. 
 
 Acro» Fiddler's lleacli. on the curvini: •Miuthcrn >liore. at the \er\ heml 
 of the rivei-, surrounded liv Koskv woods and rich upland -lope- of -ot't 
 short sv.aiil. -tami- the tlouri-him; and pretty little water>ide town of 
 (irieuliii he. A- We mil adus- towaiiU it from (liay- Thuirock it i- ea>y 
 iiiou;:h to uiidcr-tand how it lioI its pretty old i'.n-li-h name iipii\ali lit. 
 of cour>e. to the tJieeii ilaxeii, 'I'he chalk lull faiilv -tretclies down with 
 
f 
 
 
/ 
 
 
 
I "i 
 
Fiintr.F.irs nt:.\rii m prnFLEET. 
 
 lis HIM 
 
 luhili 
 
 IIMl 
 
 III 
 
 clillf CO 
 
 riiriil I'lvi'i' 
 
 Illlil its uP! 
 
 inlics mils 
 
 iiiIms til tlif vciv i;iiirjiiii of tlic iii»\v 
 I iit .'ill tiiiii's hiivt' iiH'orilnl ii iii!irk«'<l 
 
 intrust III till' linn 
 
 |ii;iiilxs III' till' lirtiiii'v LiiimIiiii litisiii iiiiij tlu' iilliivitil 
 
 WC'J'll 
 
 Hills whiili liurilii iilmiisl fvi'iv otliiT |iiiiliiiii nf tin- tii':il 'riuiiiK's iii't 
 till' liiiil-r iiiiil till' ilili's III' Tiifiiii't. Niiw cli.'ilk. ill spiti' nf its cxti'iionliiiarv 
 
 lllllllllSlll's-., 
 
 Il 
 
 IS 11 
 
 ri'iii!ii'l<!iltlt' iiiiwcr iif ii'liiiiiiii;^ innistiiri' in its siirfiicc 
 ItiMis. wliirli il uivi's mil !i;^iiiii ity i'Vii|iiir!itioii diirini; <liy wciitlu-i' ; mid 
 il is this |iiriiliiii' fiiciillv tluit ki'i'ps tlic sluillnw turf of clmlk-ilowiiM si. 
 fivsli iinil liisli iliiiin.- till' vt'iT Imltt'st iiiid nmst piirclu'd-iip siininicr 
 ilruii-lits. A tlrt'iii llvllu' tlif liltli' liavi'ii iiiiist have lifcii even wlicii 
 thr Niirsi- |.iralrs tiisl iiiii tlirir liiii,L;-slii|is up to Sli.nc-iR'ss mi tlic npiiositf 
 slimv, iiiid lixrd llir Inciil I.Tiniiitilouv iif tilt' distrii't ; mihI its j;rirniK'ss 
 liiis iii'i'ii niiidi' still nimv coiisiiiciiniis liy niiitrast at tin- pri-seiit day, fnr 
 
 U llllc nil 
 
 III 
 
 r iilir 
 
 hand thr snii.ki- of Nni'tlitk-ct or (iravcstiid and tla- laick- 
 
 liflds of (irav's 'rimirock liavi' lirurinit'i 
 
 I the slioi't' and tlu' niaislK's lowi-r 
 
 down, nil the nthti- hand thi' willdifpt lawns and spn'adiiii'' oaks nf liiyn'ss 
 AlilifV ail' innlialily far -ri'i'iiiT in their in't'si'iit caivfiilly ki'iiipt state than 
 licrinil in the Inn-- histniy nf the tidal river. A pretty 
 dnii" till' iiaiik tliioiiiih the aliltev yinunds, and it is worth 
 
 at any picMini- 
 
 iwav runs 
 
 pat 
 
 wliiie In |iiill the sniall imal aslmre and diseiidiark mi the snft noze, envered 
 with daiiilv armiiatii' yellnw wmniwnnd, fnr the sake nf a pleasant stroll on 
 div land thrminh the ,-rassy slieteh in fmnt nf Thames side. Tlie AMiey 
 ||,„ise— il eaii hardly lay fair claim to so lii-ii-.smindiii- a title, for it was 
 Ml liesl lint a uranue lielmi.uin.n to Dartfnrd i'limy— stands prettily em- 
 iMisnmed ill trees liy the waterside, and derives a certain factitious interest 
 fnr the Thames pil-rim from the fact that it is partly imilt with the solid 
 slmi.'s nf nld l.ondmi I5riil,-e. A very tall cirmiiiey close by here l.ears 
 the sii-uvstive name of the Tower of 13al.el. (ireeiihitlie is a -reat place 
 for yachts in the siiinnier seasmi : in winter, it still lives entirely nil its 
 rhalU, which is extensively .luairied and liurnt for cement : indeed, nmst nf 
 the small tradin- craft that line the petty j.ier are at this very mnmeiit 
 waitin- tn lie Inaded frmn ihi' iiei-hliouriii,u- kilns. The chalk trade at 
 (lieeiihithe dates iiack In a very ancient peiind ; sniiie nf the excavations 
 ;,re extremely old, perhaps preliistnric, and it was fmm the Hints nf this 
 
u 
 
 riii: rin.M. riiwir.s. 
 
 ,.I,„|1, l„.li. MO .luiil.l lli.il til.' |i,il;.M.|iiliif liiiiilri- iA' i;iii\'> Tim k. its 
 
 „,.|| ;„ ,.,ll ill.' Htli.r Sinn.' Au.' ^.'Illi'i^ ill lli>' mi.hllr I'liMin.- ivjion. 
 ,|,.|-iNr.l 111.' iniit.'rial lor (li.'ii li.'.'.vv li.'il.'h.'t-.. llu'lr -^limi ilikr Kiii\.v .hhI 
 tlicii- N||ji|t.lv 1i;ii1ti1 .iikI |.Miiil.'-l •• liiirs '"'li iiimw lir.'i.U. 
 
 \ -Imm! ri.l'^.' mil- -.ill ini" ili'' li^'i "<'' ^^l "'■'^' J""' "I'l""'"'' 
 
 (ir.vnliillir; mimI i..un,|iu.^ it M lii. I'.rM.'uu. i,. :ii llir Ki-inu Sim. ur liii'l 
 ..mimIn.'- ill 111.' Mraiuhl ^ir.'i.li nl' l.mi.^ l:.;..'li. l,.'iiNiii'u I.. Iiiml ili-' 
 
 ir.„r. .^/•. r/,(. /,.>/.<. .111-1 .\n'l,ii-.i lr;iiiiiii'^ -Ini'- nl lli'ii i riii--. wr nm 
 
 l„.|;,iv ill. iiinimliiiu till.' uiili ;i li'-;Iit Li-'./.' I"! I'liill.. i Tlii- |i;.il -.1' lli.' 
 rix.T liM'U-. ill il- ti\.'(l .Ic im nl- iIm' I'l.llv v.ni.is «.l lii'' I'li.t .li.ilK ImIi 
 .'iIm.IiI Nnllllllr.l :m.l Si « j. liirlH- |.'ii.lir> \\r Ml.' i'li-'U I-' ill-' .1 llll \ ill III 
 nf ill,' iv.'hiiiii.'.l .'>lii;ir\ ..ii.r iii-.i.' vvilli I •.n tt'"i«l iii:ii-li'- .L'-iir^ in lli.' 
 ,„i,i\ vi.'W .III III.' K.iili-li -i I.', .mil NN - --l 'riimiiM k in.ii-li -|.i.':i.lin'j in 
 -.'.'iiiiii-K .'11.11.— |.. r-|M'. ii\.' ..Ml ill.' K--.'\ -li"'!'' '1'^^" "I'l iii.'iM.' \N.ir. 
 .'I liii.'-i.t-l..'iMl.' >liii. ;m.l ;i tVi'.:;it.'. Iimv Im'.'Ii imn.'.l li.n.l l.\ int.. .i 
 l|.i;Hiii'^ Small i..i\ ll..-|.ii;il. |iaiiit..l ur.'\ . i'H'l iii.i>l 1.— in lli-' lis.r Si..ii. 
 Clmivli. ••ill.' i.anlirii nf K.iit.' Ii.'> l.iliin.l n- "H il- .li.-.llss hilll..|., .i lai-r 
 an. I .•..ii>|.i.'ii..ii- Kailv Kii'^li-li liiiil.liii'_'. L.trj t;mi..ii- a- a ii\.'i mark, ami 
 jii-th -ai.l t.> Im- a- li'jlil l>> ni'jlit a^ l',\ 'l:i.^ :' -■■iil"i'- •' "-.'ll. ' in.'aniii-^ 
 thai ii-> w.iiilii i- ii'.t ;m .mnr.' Ii.a\iir lln' mi.' lini'' ili:m lli.- i.ili.r A 
 littl.' l).'\,.nil Sl.iii. n.'». .Ill inli I ..|mii- tlii-.n'^li tin- .nil.ankni.ni ..n lli.' 
 
 iimtli. ami l.'.i.U int.. a lai'j.' ti.l.'il | 1. nmiiiii'^ ii|. int.. lln' W. "l Tlmiimk 
 
 m.'ii--li a- far ,'i- llif 'rillmiA aii.l Smii Ii.ihI il.iilw.iv It- \.r\ n.'inic. tli.' 
 r.ivarli. t.lN at mi.'.' tli.' hi-l.TV ..f it- ..li'^in : it i- .i l;"l^<■ f"ini.'.l in lln- 
 li.'ilt-ivl.'iinn-.l I'-tiiarin.' -..il \<\ tlic inii-liirj ..f llif imiii. niMrial il\k.' lliai 
 .'.irii.'- till' ii\.r al..>\i' tlir li'\.l "f tli.' a.l j.i.-.nl li.ld- .\t lli.' .ii.l ..f 
 
 i.i.ii'j ili'.i.'li til.' chalk rrapiMar- ..m-.' ni..ri' willi 'jial.fiil I'liaii'.:.' .it H.'.'i. 
 
 Hill, a lii'.^li .'iinl pirt iir.-.|m' .|..uii ..\ .rli.in'^iii'j ruilLcl. wlni.' nii»r.' i|ii.iri i.- 
 n.'ciir in til.' Ii.-t wliil.' I.'iv.i-, ainl wli.r.' ili.' pit- ami rnltiiiu-. -••.n frmii 
 till' livir. |ii.tiil\ .li\.'i-if\ til.' mi'jlili.'iiiiir.^ -.'I'lir Tli.- ' .'lialk w li.n \ .- ' 
 nf I'lirtli'.'l it-i'lt ,'ir.' Will km. w n naiiti.'al m;.rk-. iii'.i'.:iii-. .1 .-n.-ii Ii\ iIh' 
 
 ||..n..nialil.' ( '..ri.i.r.ii i f tli.' Tiinils lli.ii-i' in it- aiit li.nilai i\.' -.liliiiL; 
 
 iii-t I iirlinii- I'liril.-.'l l.ik.- il- nam.' in part fn.m lli.' I'liii m l.i.i.ik wliirli 
 llnw- inl.> tin- ii\.r jii-t l..v..ii.i lli. Inwii. al wli.i-.' III. mill -l.iii.l lli.' Uw 
 
 
/ 
 
 r/fipf.rrrs in:\rii to rfiiFi.Krr. 
 
 M 
 
 .niii 
 
 ' 
 
 I. Ii.'iIm'iI ril-nilllli^ i.t' till' tHiM 1111111111 |M.SMlr|- lim-ll/illC (irciil liiiirwurkH 
 |„ ||. lu wl.ilrii 111. I'llllli.l |.iiili.ll>. filiil l.iillvU ll|Hili l.iirifis mv n.|i--t:iiil|y 
 li.iiiu I'-ii'li'l iiiln Miiiill Iriiiliii- vc>^*i'ls ill \\\v t|iiiivs aii<l |>ii'l«. Al I'lirlli'fl 
 
 i- .1 lil'millilliPl \ >lli|> I'l'l \nllllLf lIlil'M's, 
 
 Till' rivi'k lli;it iiiii> iiii" 111'' ii\''i' ,i"^< t'li'-iii;^ i'lirllfrl is lln- hnrt or 
 
 hlllrlllll. JnilHil II lilllr lliull. r lip liV till' ClflV. nil wIlUM' liillllvs lie St. I'Mlll's 
 
 ('iji\, Si M,'ir\'> Cr.iv. ;iihI ('iii\ I'unl. To snilni's, it i> niimiiniily kiinwii iih 
 hiirtlnnl Cni'k, iiinl llir |M.iiil ..f liiml hi'vumi it, lioiiiHliiii-' l-oiiy- Itfiicli In 
 
 \\C>l\\.llil, lir,'ll> llir lllllllii'ill lllillli' nl' ( VilVlnlillirNS. lint liri'llllsi' it lil'H 
 |,,'illirlil,'ul\ II. 'ill III.' Inwii iilln wliii'li it is cilllnl, i.lll (Inlll.tli'ss fn|' the 
 
 \i'i\ piiii'lii'Ml r.jiM.ii tliiil III.' Nnisi' |iiriili's wlm liist cliristfiinl it iv.uiudcil 
 
 il rllliivls iVnlll tlirir nUII |M>illl nf \ il'W ils ,'l lillMlllliirk In slinW tlu'lll 
 XnIi.'II llirv >l|nllM Imil ll|. 111.' illl''t In til.' l.'fl "Ml tlll'if WilV t.. SJI.'k till- 
 
 \\,;ililiv K.ini>li y 11 iiii'l l-m-li.'is nf Crjivinnl. Iii.l.v.l, iill tliis .■niiiitry 
 
 is t'lill r\.'ii t.. III.- i.ri'siiii ilii.v nf Diiiiisli ii'iiiiiiiM'.'ii.'.'s: ami tli.' .liv]. 
 nalli'ii.'s ill 111.' rl.iiik, (.li-iiiiilly .•xriiviit.'.l l.v Simi.' A-v iiiiii.Ts, nr latrr 
 l.v H.)iiiaiin-I!iilisli lliiit-w.irk.rs ami liim'-l.iirn.'rs. aiv |...|.iilail\ kiinwii as 
 haiic's llni.'s. tVniii a liaditinii tliat tliry w.'iv us.'.l as |.lact's ..f t.'iiii.nrary 
 ii|-|iu.' ilmiii- til.' siiil.l.'ii im'iirsi..iis nl tli.' Sramliiiaviaii |.irat.'s. At a still 
 .'ailiiT |..'ii.Ml nl" niir histniy tliis little nvk liii.ls stray nu'iiti.ni in tli.' 
 „;,noiial annals fmni tli.' fa.'l lliat tli.' -ivat lialf-niytlii.'al l.attl.' ..!' Cray- 
 Innl ua> tniiulil n|M.n il> l.aiiks. IpHwitii llmuists .l.it.'s mi tli.- .nii' liaml, 
 • niil 111,' Kninanisi'.l Hiilisli innvinrials nil llu- ..lli.'r: aft. 'r wliicli. says tlu« 
 Aii'^l.-Saxnii Clinaii.-l.', •'ih.' I'.ritnii-WVlsh Inil.'t K.'iitlaii.l. ami llnl with 
 nii.kl.' avM' In l.nmlnn l.iiiA.' Kat.'r in -'ur annals l.nii- ll.'acli Tavern, niit 
 „„ III,, uiaisli l.v (Vaylnriliii'ss, was a nnt.'.l I'la.'.' fnr tlie |.ractir.' nf pri/..- 
 lini.ts. Ill tlii' ..111 .lays, iM'fi.r.' tli.' a.lv.'iil nf sleaiii n.lli.'rs, tlie l.ri-s ami 
 M-ll.M.n.'ls us.'.l In li.' in nil.' lill.' 111.' Wlinii' l.'H-lll nf l.-Hi- It.'acli. waitiii- 
 ,l„,i, ,,„|| In on up In l.nmlnll, aU.I sn til.' IVa.'ll Was a .'..ll Vl'llii'llt S|..)t 
 
 f,,i- till' .li.j.lay nf tlif ••iini.K' art" In'tniv an appreciative j-nLlie ; hut times 
 li.'.M' I'lian-r'l sin.'.' I lien, ami I...11- K.'aeli Tavern is n..w left ..ut la.pole.ssly 
 •„, ,|„, ,.,,li|. Till' lower pail ..f tlie ereek, l.eL.w Daitlnr.l. is still a ti.lal 
 stivain : lli.' marsli.'s mi eitlier Lank mark tin- ..ri-inal estuarine il.'pnsits ..f 
 iIh' tw.. .•niiM-r-iii- streams wliieli here fall into the main river frnm right 
 
!»; 
 
 Tin: Ttn\f. 77/.n//x 
 
 „n.l l.fi V.t. ami.l .ill tliU -inok.- :umI .?JH m.mI uLmmm, Nnlniv i^ imt all !.i..l 
 
 wIm.IIn iiiilnvi'ly. Tli.Mv U a .•••itaii. Mraim.' iMaiitv .v.n in llir v.iv Liiini.- 
 
 wlii.li lint rx.n .■>.• ."Ill -ir. Imii vx lii.l, I., iniiirs |.atri.l I-, all ..r ii- >vl.rii 
 
 .,iilv wr .an u.t III.- man wIm. |...-.-.> lln- Irii-' |""«i.' nIm'-ii I" iMl<'i|'"t it 
 
 In,' n>. Il i- lliit lliat iiiak.- iIm' piiniii.' aili>t. Any man .an >. <• iIm' 
 
 liHUV oi.xioiis iK'Uiiti.' .'!' 111.' VN.'il'l ar..iin.l Mm lli.' lainl-.w-. lli.' >\al. ilalU. 
 
 til.' mountain-, tli.' ra\in.'>. Lnl it lak.'- a tin.' -..r I" p-'int "Ht '" "- '" 
 
 .i.'taii til.' unMi-pri'tnl l..\.'lin.".^ ..I' man\ am.niu' ili>' ."nini.'nri*! m-.h.'- <<\' 
 
 Nat'!!. 'I'vNas a >tr.'ii,i: >.ii-«' "f tlii- nii.l.il\iii- .liaiin in wliat ni..,t nirii 
 
 n-jc.'t that 111.,.!.' a ;,'m»t arti>t inx.nl lli.' |>aia.|..\i.'al I'lil v.iy |.iv^n;inl 
 
 a|ilniri*lii. " l^.' I'.aii. ..'^t \c lai.l.' 
 
 4 
 
 1; * -~ 
 
 tut. in Ml" 
 
 / 
 
/ 
 
 ,U I t 
 
 I II I I II \ > l> I'l I t I III III 
 
 CM AITKI! IN. 
 
 i;i;lTil \ N l> \\ uui.w KM 
 
 ■?r.-^.^^E^^|lK >liuil |Ml(li nf liv.r lifiwriii I'liitl.ft iiimI Kritli luitis 
 if^TTTTJ^'J iim.m;- Miit'iiriiijx folk \Uv |n()l>lriii,ili.',il unmr of IImihI's Kcarli. 
 
 'ukvJ»^^ lli'l luv r;ill il .ijm-viHll^ for Im-v vessels. I>llt Iwrlv.- fr.'t 
 ^■^S^^^^ >|inll tn I ll.-h llir sii,iiln\V kr.'l (.f llir c.-lsV unill,!-'. Will.T- 
 
 skiiiiii.iii;;' liMi. .''"j/in. <Hi .,in Irfi ih.' umiiiicl lisfs .sniii.iwluit tnw.-inls Krilli , 
 uiir li-lit still ((.iisislsuf low nnlMiikf.l l.t id, tlir nirsr.l .■ll.nw kiiuwii ns Cul.l 
 IJiii'liuiir r..iiii .•li->iiiu iIm' sirw ii|> llir rivrr in iliis .liivctinii. Kritli town 
 its,. If. \\itli it. i.i.'fs iiiiil lir.i.MM-^. sI.iikIs iHvllily on liu- Kmlisli slimv. 
 uitli its tall rlmivli spiiv iirMliii- lidnw ilir sln|..., \\lii.>r summit is cn.wii.Ml 
 l,v ihr |.ni.i.r.M Inxvrr uf ilie i'.rhnlriv IImmh' fnc Sfjim.M, iiM'iv familiar 
 
 In saiiuis mi.Irr il> ul.Irr iiaiiir as I. ml Sas ami S,.|es, .\ little vv 1 a.i.U 
 
 Uivatl.v to the pirlMivsiiiiriiess uf the l.uiimlary sliuiv ill tliis part of our 
 j.,„,li.A . ami tlir liMT. tlinli-ll Wiilelieil out into a ponl opiiosite the toWll. 
 ,- .till iianovv ninimli to allow an .asv v i.w of .■itli.T l.aiik fioiu llie •U'«-k 
 ,,f a \fssrl tliifliiiti- tlowii tlif mill fliaiiiu'l. 
 
 ,f the old tillli' liave not Vft lost all 
 lion A^iv . Iiut tlii'if an- few 
 
 Tliese (jiliet waleiside villa 
 
 their iiiimitive simi 
 
 ilicilv even ill our own 
 
 hith.'s indeed on the tidal •riiames wliieli still pivseive the antique . 
 
 illt-of- 
 
 the . 
 
 1 luuk of lleiilev, and I'anni.ourm-. and Wliiteliuivii. ami Leehlade. 
 itlhT deli.-ioiis luial loiterin.ii-l.laees of the uiM'^f 'ivi'f- l" 
 ,1,1 ,lavs. hi.wever. w h.^n eoal as vvt lav happilv undisn.veied in the 
 
 the-worli 
 
 and sii manv , 
 
J 
 
 Tin: Tin \i. rii i '//>'. 
 
 sir iii'/niy sitiiiii 
 
 their nnis 
 
 t liavf liffii 
 
 l.owcis of till- i'i\vX\\—ii-i-'i*'rtinn <t 
 
 A .Irliulllllll millulillLr "f .•llMIIIClrlistir. ill -Mcll ll ivmnir .Inwn ri\.T llil\r11 
 iis litilf Kiitli. ;i |.l.'a-aiU niixtuiv nl' nisti.-ilv aii.l iia\ i,ua)i..ii. Iiv.-s an<i 
 
 tju-paiilin. l.av au.l a,l- . ,.lu,v. 1,..,., ainl l.r; i.s. siirl. a. i> ih.vxImiv imw tn 
 
 1... ,li..-,.\.iv.l in KM'Jat:! pr.'!"'). tl.nu-l. a littl.' »( it liii-eis >till ii. tl..' 
 small.T Wri^li .-..ast touii. ..;• tl.r -inall.T 1..! .iiiu li>l'ii'- \v^^vus of tlu- 
 MurllMaM.ru ^hiiv> ..f Srutlaii.l AimI rv.i. imsva.lax s. thuii-l. iIm' Mi.uk.- 
 ;,„.i l.n>llr ..t tlir -ivat cit.v lia\r Inn- ..vnllnu.Ml as far .InvMi tl..' riv.T 
 as Kiilli it>rif, tlmn-li tli.- uat.T is ..,ii> .iiiut.'.l -rxva.uv inisr.l \silli iimd. 
 ami tl.r fat salin.m im Imi.-.t mnuut ii]' l»artf..r.l Civ.k ui>«im past t.. 
 l,.ai. tl.f u.ii- l.v ■rr.l.iiii-t..n Inrk. vrt iioll.ii.L: '■ai. .|"'''- """• ''"• '""''"■ 
 pnttiM.-. ,.f tiir iittlr l.asl^ii.L: \n^^u plar..! l-riiratli tiir liahuii.- \^u.Mis ..r 
 |irlv...|,.iv aii.l tlir ti.lai >tiaii.l. au.l luokim: "Ut fmin all its l.n.irlit lintels 
 aii<l iiiii> au.l lu.l-ii;,- linii>r> <<u \\u- .vaM^lrs^ iu-.-.tsmmi, „\ tlif wmUVs 
 wvaltli, vvrii.liiiu it- Nxay u|. tlir -nal lix.i tn j.av its tiil.iilr t.. tl.r Kii-lisli 
 
 ,„.nl.l,-. K..1- tlil.lltr it IVall.N i-. tl.nll-1. \N r .|i>-.lisr tlir fart flulll nlllsrlvcs 
 
 uftrii .•11..U-I1 l.v niii- .•.•,.!. Ml. .i.al lai.-uaur ..f • r\|...it> ai.<l imports.' and 
 •■l,..,laii.v nf tra.l.'.' and all tlir ivM -.f it . tlir fa.-I >lill rnnaiiis tliat a lai-r 
 |,r..l...iti..n nf tl..' pr.Ml.nv ..f all ntlin- rnuiitii.- ll..u> int.. Kn-laiid v.'ar 
 l.v v.'ai-. al.snliit.lv iiiipai.! f..r. a> tl..' int.i.'st .In.' ..11 Kn-lisli .-apital 
 inv.-M.-.l ill nil.- \va\ .M- an.. III. 1 ..1. fnr.i-n -..il < '"iii fr..ni K-vpt. li-s 
 IV..111 Sn.vni;'. .■..tt..n fmiii l:..i.il.ay. ri.v fi..ni llaii,L'..nii. sii-ar fr..iii Mauiititis, 
 
 ^r.,!d fr til.' W.'st Cnast. tinil..! fi..iii Cana.la. iiiiii fn.ni .laiiiai.'a. .•..••na- 
 
 liiit til.r.- fr..m tli.' Sniitli Sra Ulan. Is. all .-..n..' .lav aft.T .lay up 
 this -il.nt hi-huav. aii.l all -" m f.>'d aii.l -at.' tl..' .•uri..n> last.' ..f 
 that nimii\..i..u>. l.-r.lly. tril.iit.- takiii'.r wni l.l .l.'spni. tlir .'vny. la_\ llritisli 
 
 rnn->'iiii. r 
 
 i'liitli ll.a.li. riinniii'^ l.rtw.'.n Kiilli niaisli.- aii.l tli.' Cnl.l llarlM.iir 
 faiiii-. l.riii'."' 11- l.a.k ..11.'.' ni..r.' int.. tli.' allu\ial .l.'l.ris tliat tl.inlv c.v.'is 
 tl„. >itr of th.' nlil pr.l.ist..ri.' s.a ti..r.l .l.iiiiin-t iv.' I'..iiit i- tli.- .piaint 
 i,,.,ni.' ..f til.' I..U s|.it r.piin.l wlii.'li ili.' ri\.'i- I" ii'ls int.. tli.' n.'Xi rra.li ; 
 ;,,id in-t ..ppn-^it.' it. thi' liltl.' ti.lai .l>k.' ..f Itainl.ani Civk ..p.'iis up 
 l.r..a.llv int.. tl..' K->.'\ iiiar-li.'- .-n tl.r n..rtli.'rii -i<l.'. All tli.'s.' l..u lands 
 Mil rilhri- liaiik sli..\s I1..U v.iv sli^litly il lias pasx'.! fioin 
 
 arniin 
 
 1 till' ii\"r nil 
 
/ 
 
 i:i!iTii . I yn wool wjcii. 
 
 00 
 
 tlif ctiiMlilioii nt' Mil fxiciisivc cstiiiirv into one of wluit can liiinllv fvcii 
 iinw lie r.illcil iliv Ijiiitl ; aii«l were it not fur tlu- roriiiidalik' ciiiliaiikiiu'iits 
 caniiMl ruiiiid the inmillis of all tlii'sc side triliiitaiifs or iiiarslilaiid .strfiiiii.s, 
 lilt- i:ivatcr part of tlic alluvial region would to tliis da.v Ik- drowiii'd and 
 watfijouiivd with cviTV tide ihw can easily picture to oneself liow, l)y 
 slow s.ciilai- elevation, tlie l>are tiilal sandiiaiiks and iiiteilacinj;- cliannels 
 of tlie outer estuarv niiglit siniilaily lie converted, iirsl into fat ague- 
 
 .^. '^ftrL. 
 
 
 sgsdammgti^r 
 
 .M:\MMirnr.K mpint. 
 
 l.iv.din- niarslus. and linallv into ridi and well-drained a-ricultural land. Silt 
 would slowly -atlier over all tlie suhnierued portions, and at last the 
 ve-etation itself would help hy its ..wn (Uray to raise the .general level of 
 the accuniulate.l soil. Only the <-entral I.eds of the channels would remain 
 MS creeks or watercourses. diMinin.y the surroundiii-- ni..rass : and l.y 
 eniLankin- tlu'se and punipin- out the water from the sluices, we sliouhl 
 ..sactly reprodu.v the s.-t of con.litioiis throu-h which the Thames-side low- 
 |,.vel stretches have rea.-hed tlii'ir present a-ricultural sta-e. it is curious. 
 iinUvd, that the vast cn.uineeriii.y- works neede.l to produce the existin- 
 stMte of thin-s should liMve l.eeii undertaken at so early a period and in 
 
100 
 
 77//; Tii)\i. Til \ Mrs. 
 
 ^.. min1.fiiisi\." ;i r;i.slii..ii timf .'VtMi the vnv mciiiniv ..!' llir l.i-K -In. ill. I 
 li;i\t' lif.'ii iitl«ii\ t'ui-nttcM aiiinii- ill.' Ir.i.lili.'ii- .'t' tli.' iu.hI.'IIi ri\.r 
 
 Al.'iiLT til.' l..iiilv li.'i.' ill'.' s.'Mlt. r.'.l till' \\"rl\'> Mii.l t'iiri.iii.> ..f .iMii-vriiii-i 
 (ir ii.ii-.iiu.' ti.i'l.'s II. 'I |u riiiilt.'.i ii.'.ii.'r l.> Luinloii, Hiili-li '^111111" :iii.l 
 .■h.iiiicMl iiKinur.'s [...Hut.' lli.- .'lir ; Mini at iiil.ivaU 11. at lilll.' im.w.I.i 
 liiaua/iii.'- ><tu.l til.' riv.T. with r.'.l tia- tlviiiu ami -..iilrv .mi '^iiai.! 
 Kv.'ii a- w.' l>a>s, a w.ll iiaiii.'.l |i.i\\.l.r l.aiu.'. lli.' '/",'/ /''".'■, rK-> al.'ii---i.l.' 
 ill.' littli' I'i.'i- 
 
 llalfwav K.a.'li .I.tIv.'- it-; iiaiiic t'r..iii iIk' t'a.l tlial it li.'> lialluav 
 li.'tw.'.'ii l,.iii.l..ii Kii.l'^.' aii.l til.' --.a. r.'.-K<.iiiiiL: lli.' .iiiinii.ii.'.iii.nt "f llial 
 la-l -.iiii.'wlial iii.l.'tiiiil.' ciitilv at lli.' j.i.is .-t' < Jrav.'-.ml ll> >.'iitli.rii 
 >li.ir.' i'^ tin' >it.' ..f tin' |m.\m|.|- inaua/iii.' wlii.li \>\v\\ ii|) in iMil. aii.l mail.' 
 a II. li-.' that lnnk.' lli.' wimh'W'' of r('N|iictal>l.' Iniii'-.ln>l.l.i> laml fx.ii 
 iiia'^i-trat.-i t'.n many miL-^ amuml. It'- m>rlh haiiU ::i\.- a... >- in'U t" 
 I »au.'iiliaiii h.icks, a pla.'.' with a ciiiitiii'- hi-tniy wlii.'h a.lmiraM\ illii-t ral."> 
 th.' lal»iriiiu> miL^iii "f th.'>.' ii\t'r>i.li' a^i -'iial l.iwlainU, 'I'll.' [lari-li ..t 
 hau'.'iihaiii. at that w.ll km. u 11 ami .!• liiiit.' .lat.'. lli.' .ilihii time -as. 
 li.'tnr.' til.' tii-t .'iiil.aiikm.'iit ali'iiu- th.' ri\.'i- wa> . i.t-t.-.l .'.m-i-'' .1 in il- 
 -.iiiiIi.'Hi |Mirti.iii ..f a \a-t imir-li, tlir.'iiLih whi.li a -mall -ticam. I.\ iiaMU' 
 ih.' ['...iirii.' r.ii'i.k. tl.'W.'.l t.irtm.ii-ls thr.miih li.'.l- >.t' n-.'.l ami l".u a-t.i 
 .l.iwii t.i it- la/\ cuiitlmin'.' with th.' main ti.lal liv.r. Wh.ii ih.' niar-li. - 
 w.'i.' ■• inn.'il ' or .hU.-.l, th.' .'mhaiiUimnl i.ilaim.'.l tin- wlml.' <A' ihi- 
 il.'-..lal.' It'V.'l ; ami it wa- tin' "liils of tin' nun- of i'.aikiii'^ \l.ii.'\ a litll.' 
 fiirlli.r n|i to uml.'itak.' th.' r.'i>air ami maiiaLi.iiniit of tin- loir.: -.a wall 
 that h.'inm.'.l it in. 'I'iiii.' afl.r liiii.'. liow.'X.r. th.' ti.L' wa- l.po mii.'h toi 
 tilt' Uaikin.i: la.li.'s. ami many iniimlati.in- -w.'pt ov.i th.' .'XIm.-.-.I -nrfa..' 
 of th.' |)aL:.'Mliani L.'V.I Aft' 1 th.' !!. 'formation th.' nun- of .'.nil-.' -ml.l.iil\ 
 .li-ai.ii.ar.'.l. ami with tlniii ili.' '.^oo.l w..ik lli.'V ha. I .ani.'.l oii, ->> thai 
 ih.' wall- of hau.'iiham il.'.'av.'.l a.'.''M-.rim^l\ iimhr otlnr iiiana'^.iii. lit In 
 .lam.'- th.' I'^ii-t'-^ linn' a nr.al l.r.a.-h wa- foinn'.l in tin- Lank, ami th.' 
 who!.' vall.'N of th.' I,.'a wa- t.'m|ioraiilv inumlal.'.l Sir Coin.'liu- N'.rmiiL: 
 ,1,.,, ill,. f,iiii,,u- hnt.'li cmjim'.r win. r.'.iaiim.l tin' l-'.n Ciimtrs. w.i- .-all.'.l 
 in to -l.tji th.' .lamaL;.'. ami h.' -m'.'ii'.l.tl in n-loiiiiL: th.' .lam ami i.ankiii'.: 
 ii|> ih.' whol.' of ha-.iiham Civ.k. In th.' r.i'^ii of <,»m'.ii .\iiin' th.' 
 
4 
 I 
 
/ 
 
ElllTlt AXO WOOUVICIl. 
 
 101 
 
 'riiiiint's ill l.i.st liiiiNl iIm' (IvUc uiicc imiic, s\vr|it jiwiiy nvcr :i liiiiitlifd 
 .'icns of liiiiil ;ill InHftlici', ;iii(l l.iiil :i tliiiiisiiii«l iiinic (•(Hiiplctcly iiiMlff 
 Wiili'iv Tlic nwiicrs, ;ifti'i' niiiiiiii; tlniiisrlvfs ill I lie Viiiii (■iiilfiivoiir to 
 iTslmv I he (l\Uc. ;ill(i\\ril tlif Tliiiliifs in the ciiil lu rfiii;iili lii.i.sti'r of tin- 
 sil ii:il iiMi. 
 
 Iliit I lie scinir ciiilaiiLirrnl iiii\ injilinii, mikI I'jiilijiiiifiit iiii|in.snl :i t.-r 
 nil ,'ill >lii|)s ciilcriiiu llif I'l'it nl' Liiiiduii. to (Icfmy tlic f.\|ifiisfs nf rrliliicilij-- 
 I lie l.rnjxcii (•iiil.iiiiiviiiriit, One ('ii|itiiiii I'mv. .-iii Kii.ylisli fii/,iiif(.T, \vln» 
 liiiil licrii ciiiiiiuvcil liv I'clcr tlif (iiciit ill (IriiiiiiiiL; tlif iiiiirsli on tlic 
 Nr\,i, wliicli i> iinw St. I'di'isliuru, was ciitriisti'd witli tlio ivcoiistnictimi 
 n\' ilic liicikrii ilylsr. lie rail a lii-li liaiii< all aloii,^' tin- I'Xposfd front, 
 mill (liaiiicil oM' llir walrr fiom witliiii li.v iiicaiis of sliiiccs. Tlu' lake 
 Iniiiinl liv llir scour. lioWfvrr, lie dill Hot allriii|>t to rt'flaiiii, and it 
 iviiiaiiH'd till a few years sincr as •• lonely iiicri'. fiinm'd round liy t.ill 
 mvcii ifrds, and ivsorlcd to for lisliiiiLi' liy a select eoniiiaiiy of London 
 aiiuleis. 'I'lie lioiise where tliey Used to resort is still known liy tlie expressive 
 name of haueiiliani I'.reaeli. keepinu up tlie memory of tlie disaster from 
 
 wliieli the deep ] I took its origin. In late years, liowevi'r, advaiita,!;e 
 
 \\a-> taken of tlii> iiie\peii>i\e exeasatioii to form another one of those ureal 
 (hieks which fiinue the >liore of the rivi'r at intervals almost ail the way 
 from London lirid-v down to the sea at (iravcscnd and Till'nry. I'nhappily 
 the dock never came to aiiylhin.i;-, and after spciidinu' an immense sum of 
 nioiiev the whole enterprise had to he nivcii ii|i. A I'uincd jetty, through 
 which some lar-e \cssel seems to have driven lii'r way (for it is (|nitc cut otf 
 from the adjoinin-- shore), is all that can now lie seen from the riverside of 
 this ureal and disastrous iindertakiiiL;'. 
 
 The views from the l;uid-siile ahoiit I)a,uciiliam Dock duriii.t-- its Itrief 
 exisleiiee must h;ive lie. n of a very sinuuliir and :ilmost paradoxical character. 
 \s the river Hows al a level many feet aliove the surroundin-;- meadows, 
 the ships ill hi-h water ll(«atcd lliroii,L;li the ticlds half-way \\\\ a hill, or 
 glided iiicompreheiisilily .across the surface of the dry land itself. From the 
 eniliaiikiiieiil, oii the otlu'r hand, the I'yc looked down at low water on the 
 south to the ri\er itself, soiiii' fifty feet lielow, and on the noi'th to the 
 serrieil masts ami hulls and spars of the dock that occupied the site of the 
 
 
i,,j rut: rum. /7/u//.x 
 
 N,-,I,i>l,r,| l.ikr It SNM> .i Mlikiu- M.mI MII^mImC nLsN .Xrl. VV lull llir il.tniMX.- 
 ,n,.t ,,f .•nM.M.rnv llM.I . HV, , , .ir, 1 l-.l, M-lr. nf ,1,.. InftV ImmI.T .-.lik... Im. 
 
 i, uniM l,,nr 1....M ,•. f.M- MM.n. .viumi Ui.l.l.- -n- vnIm" 'I"' '"'"b "'"'•• "" 
 ,|„. „.,r,l,..,i. >!..,.,. vv,-.. Mill •^■^^.■u nv.r tu ti^l. -r nv il'M-vN I. .'i,.! lii.ur.l 
 
 4 
 
 ,,,uimI 1.\ .1 ui.l.' l"ll --f i:"iK iii;ir-.li-\v.r.U ,\lfii.liii- ..\.i :iii mivm nf h.miIv 
 
 tllillV .MT.- •SlMIl.rni- -II thr In|, nf ill-' l.;mk. I»l Slllilr. VMnln. l.rfnlV 
 t|„. il,r.|.tinll nf llir illfUcil -inrk nil ll,.' l-lrxllt >\\r. ■ \\ W\rU \- fmill fn| I \ 
 tn lif|\ fr.t al.nsr tlin livrl I.mI ilt loW Wat.r, Wr -.r nil n||,- >i.lr tlir 
 
 TiiiiiiHv ^^itll il^ ^liiiipinu. iii'J. al.nxr lli.' iiil;iii.l l.\-l ^^li'H l'"' 'i'''' '■' 
 
 „,, . ,111,1 ill,, .till l.lkr nf hn-.llllJIl.l all.l thr f;i T CX t .lldi ll- tlilt- nil tllf 
 
 ..tluT--i^iii-; =" '""•'• •'" ''■'•' "' ''"■ -'-•'"''"■ "■'"'"' ^^ •'''■'' ""'^^" •''""- ''"'' 
 
 .^ivat w.it.iy lii-liua>. aii.l thr rii,,riiinu> laLmir whirli it ha- .'nM tn l.aiik 
 ,,,, thr iaii.U aii.l r,,iiliiir thr livr,' withlii its |,ir>riit aitilirial limits' 
 
 Mail thr ,|,Mk srhrllU >ll(crr,l..l. til,' still lakr Unlll.l llnU lia\r Im'.'II a 
 ,„,i,\ h,,llir ,.f .lrr|,ly la.lrll \,..s,.|>, alhl thr lllshrs all<l sr.l-.'s Wnlll.l haV 
 -i\rll |ilar,. tn U tllirk \r-rtati.ill nf Jili-I Ills. MIkI lliaill t nj.-a llallt lliasts. 
 
 ;,,,.l ,,th,.r .piaiiit 1m,ii-1is .,f naval ■^mutli, iimiv l,.\rlv than tliric naiiirs, 
 ;,,|,1 nlV.TillU rl.,ll,s, slll.j.vts I., til,' ivailv jirliril ,.f thr iiiaiiiir artist 
 Wat,' \\illr,l it .pthiTwisr. ami I )a,-riiliaiii still iviiiaiiis niirnf thr -irat failmrs 
 ,if mall nil the ii|i|irr rivrr. 
 
/ 
 
 F.lllTII \\l> Wiiol.W It'll 
 
 \m 
 
 Tlllll \<<\\ |inilll n|i|M.,ilc Dii-viiliiilll r.iv.irli i- ( 'inssiirss. willl llllirwiiy 
 
 Hulls.', uili.iwis.' kiiuwii its III- l.fjitlin- r.iitlli'. iicjir its iitniost rxtivmity. 
 
 Ill) li.iiuvr ilcckctl with siiiliir's cnicifix 
 
 (i\\( r 
 
 I'llsilVdliry i-* till' inrlllnrv ut' ( 'insslic 
 
 liki- 111.' niic tlml tnps llif hiyli clitV ;il lluiiluuiir. liv Ciili'iiiln'.s t 
 
 fur liiMv is 111.' <.iittiill u\ llir l.uiiiluii Suiilli Miiiii Dniiiiiiuv. iifitlitT 
 
 |iirtMlfS(|llr lliil' |iuctic,ll iis il llli'llli' fur |irll ur |>tlicil. Wllilt !l (lusvntiill 
 fVuiii till' |iri'tl\ iiir<lin'\iil ii.imi' ; uli;il ii ilcsccriitiuii u|' m uiicc lioly anil 
 
 ( sfcriitfil site' \Vc ruiiiiil it sluwly iiitn Tri|icucl< Uciicli, wliicli tiikfs its 
 
 iiiiiiii' tVum ;i riiniuiis n|nn|, iA' ncfs mi llic suiiIImtii siiuri', in'.-ir M!irj;iii'ft- 
 iifss. iiii .•mcii'iit iiiiiik fur siiijuis liuiiml up ur duwii tlic tidiil sticiiin. 
 Nell' .Mice lllulC \\v liMij ulllsrivcs cliciusfi I uii ciliicr luiiid liv lu\v iiiJirsliv 
 tr;iris ivinu- lu'juw llir \v\r\ ut' lii-h wat.T in the (Tiitriii cliiiiiiicl. Tu tlic 
 
 suiitli stivlrli I'lmiisl..,!.! iiijirslics, wliicli :i II I. nisliin-- tliruuyli a luviicli 
 
 ill tiic Itiiiik. (• |ilttciv (linwiifd diiiiim lln' ifi.uii i>t' llniry \lll.. idti-r 
 
 uliicli tlifv \\v\v nut rfclaiiiicfl t'ur a cuiisidcralili' pniud. 'I'u the iiurtli, 
 Haikiii"- Lfvcl .xtfiids away alun;; tl„. I.aiik ut' tlic Ivudin.u liver, kiiuwii 
 
 ■*^ 
 
 li\l;hl\'. I l:l.l K. 
 
 tu sailufs ill this part i^'i its .'uiirsf as liarkiii'-' Creek. Tlie vicissitudos of 
 thai iiuw iiiaiuduruws and pulluted stivani fuiiii aiK.tiu'r inti'ifstiiii;' illustrative 
 chapter in the liislurv ut' tlu' uradiial reclaiiialiuii ut' the 'riianu's t-sluary. 
 At uiic time the little tuwii ^A' liarkiiit:. which lies a euiiple ut' miles nurth 
 
Il)l 
 
 rin: iii> !/• m^ "/'•^• 
 
 it tll<' CiilltlMi'll 
 
 ,1' 111.' Kn.lil.u NNilll tlir TIlMlllr-. I! 
 
 iKitl ;i^ "IH' "t iIk 
 
 mn^l iiii|M.il;iiil ti'-liiiiiu' <<'ii"i"'" 
 
 iiiilii- in III'' ^^ 
 
 |,..|r ..f Kii-I;mmI It- I'I'-NMI 
 
 t;t. 
 
 Irlll/iil» WiH' 
 
 ImIK ;i|i;mI. li.ir.lilMi - li-lirim.ii 
 
 ImIIi ;iml l'i''l >' 
 
 tlic Mil Mini tin' iivfi 
 
 lllr iM.l:itf.| wmM "I llnii " 
 
 |,.„.lnn.... :.l M 1'^ i".~ili..n. InU inln.l.ilanl^ n| a 
 
 Ij,,, ,,M,;.II\ XX it I. I In' rl.all.iin- "f 
 
 w u . tainiliiii •'<{ 
 
 I'.illin 
 
 lie Ma'kil. ai 
 
 ,1 tlir I. lull VX.Mlllcr nf t 
 
 |„. .till nnl. I an. I n.'i-'ni 
 
 (u'linaii Oitaii 
 
 Tl,.. r.arkilii: -ii.arkH >ail.-.l -l! in linl 
 
 ||c.(> Imni linn 
 
 tnia 
 
 1 .•r.'.k al tin' \.r\ i:alr> . 
 
 til.' I»>il.-li f.ia>l. "T in tin' m 
 
 ,t I...U.1..M t.. li-li t..i -'1- an.l vxliinn- 
 1, Sih.i I'ii- "t tin' N"ll 
 
 I >i':i 
 
 na\, tin \ 
 
 1 ;,, far a-, tin' OiUm.v^ lli.in-.l\. ■« in .pn' 
 
 ,t ..f linu an. 
 
 ^sas all i.M. .Mtiivlv nn.u,.i.-l i" ""^ 'i^''*"- '"■'"'"^ ^^ '''•'' '''''" """1'^'""" 
 t., m.Mv than a tln.in.an.l >lui.lv m.n an. I l'n>> 
 
 ,„ ,i„„. ,„„,,.,, ,,., N.,,M..i> ..r th.. Thann.^ -^tna.y .^ann. ;:.a.lualK 
 „j,„„ „,,„. -n... K.,.li„. ,is..r l.n.u^lil .l.,xxn an .v. imna^in^ .,nanniv 
 .,• Ml, an.l nnnl. till at laM ih- l.anU- -r ih- lillk .nial .■.■.■,! xx.n all 
 .,„,,„„,..,,..l ,„ 1,...U ..f >uf, ^nv ..../-. .ln..u.l, .l,i,l, llu. Mn..i.l, nx..,' 
 ^^iM.U ... t..r.n..u. ,.atl, v,i,h .lillirul.x .l-xxn l- I'-a.kin. Sh.i,. xxh.r- Ms 
 
 .,1,. th.' liina.l xxat.rxxax ..|' tin' ■riiani.- il-.H' 
 ,r. nil it .an ni> 1 'nu.i lini 
 
 (l.liM-.iis (X.n 1.1. M-k ami inip 
 
 Vr>M'U ..f tin' t.inna-.' that iim.I ..n..' I" aM. n. 
 
 M.tli.-i.nt .Iran.ht -f xxat.T m, th-ir .l..|. k.. U, ami .h- -n,rl^ "'' '-'' '" 
 
 L.,n.|..n ha- lai-.l.v .|iilt..l axxa> tV"ni I 
 
 h.. r.aikin- Mua.k- !■. lln- ln---i- 
 
 „,• ,;,,,, ,;,in..l.x .„■ Vann..u,h. an,l tin' li.h. Muall .raH ..1 1.. -.1. :-.. 
 
 WhitMaM.'. A .•..nM.l.ral.l- nnn.l..rnf jmUx -hii-^ M,ll lu.k ain,l.>>lx al 
 
 t,.,, ,n,att.a..,ix.' >...an,. xxh--..' nm.l i> n..xx -x. hnth.r |...ilu,..l L.x ta.-Mri.-, 
 
 ..„ ,h.- hank, an.l i.x tl u.lall ,.f th- i.anh.n N.-ih Main h.aina.... 
 
 Hut tlM'ir ...•.•u|.ati..n ha- nm^lx -iipr-.l .'tV I., mh.r |.la..-> . ih.. railxxav 
 ha. t.. a ....at ..xt-.n, .u,K.rM.,h.,l th.. rix.r a- a n.a.l hn ti-h . ih,' n.xx 
 
 ,.,...1.. ,,• ,,a..kin. in u-r ha. tak-n ih.. ,.h. f ih.- .,hl n....h,„l -l „an.,,.... 
 
 i„ „,.,,, ,v..lU: th.. N..r.h S..a .•ani.r. hax,. int.ih-a iar..K xx ,, h ih.- 
 Harking tia.h.. an.l th- ..m. ..f th,. hanlv ti.h..nn.n hax.. nr li.-l axxax 
 ..U..xxh..,v. ..,■ tak..n 1.. .rnxxin^ ,...a,.,.-^ an.l .al.l.a,... I.i <ns.n- '-".hn, 
 i„>t. Ml ..r .•at.-hin;: plai..,- an.l tnrl...t lnr ,1,,- m,,.,,Ix ..f ,r...-.lx ilillinu>^al.- 
 A ..na.x >i^hl in.l....l i- Harkin;. f.vk at ih- |.i..>..nt l...int .if ti in 
 
/ 
 
 f^ 
 
/ 
 
r.iiirii \M> Wiioi.wicii. 
 
 10.1 
 
 this wdrUinlMV iiiiictcciitli cciitiirv ; iiml vet, even licrc our iiitist |iiissfii;n('rs 
 in.'iiiJii;!' tn iliscdvcr suiiic cliMrc'ictciistic .•iikI |iiftiirt-<(|iif liits lui- tlicir iiitcr- 
 prctiitivr iH'iicils. " Mniiv nrf iiimivcIs. " s;iys S()|ilii)clcs with tiiitli, " l)ut 
 iian;,f|il ut .-ill morf iiuiivcllmis tliiiii iiiiiii." Art, (ifti-r fill, iiiis tlic ii'.'ii .Mi(la.s 
 j;ift ; w lintcvfi- it tniiclii's liii'iis iit uiicc to |iiirrst yold. 
 
 Tliis (Jcsc.T.'itfd littli' livtM- i!i)(liii,y, wliosc lowrr liiliil ifii<-li tniins 
 liai'kiiii; t'lcrk, deserves iiidccd a licttcr t'litc than to ix'coinf the li?ial 
 ivcc'iitaclc t'of London sf\va;;t' ; tor it liscs iinionu,' tin- woods and hills of 
 Kji|tin,Lr Koifst, and it tlows in its ii|i|»'r Ih'IhIs and angles tliroiiuli a 
 prt'ttv iiiiid undidatinu' coiintiv toward llit- lnoad liosom of the ciiiiidtiii^' 
 Thaiiifs. r.arUini;- town itsrif, ion.L;- licfoif it iiccanu' a tishin^^ centre, eoidd 
 hoast of M lespeetaliie ;inti(|nity and a loii^' historic fame. The veiv name 
 is one of ;i pecnliaf type so common in the London district and l>v the 
 lianks of the Thames that it deserves a moment's passing' consideration at 
 oiir hands as we sni liv the month of the CreeU. The termination //'//, as 
 Air. I\eml>le has aiii|ilv shown, niaiks the old tnwnship .settlements of the 
 Teutonic colonists of liritain : and in meaiiiiiL;' it is a patronymic. e(piiva!ent 
 
 to till' Scotch ///( 
 
 /(•, the Welsh '// 
 
 I. or 
 
 the mediieval Kimlish 
 
 sdit 111 SllCll 
 
 names as .Johnson. Wilson. Tiiomsoii. ••uid lli'iiderson. Tims the .sons of .K 
 
 wiiuld lie ilocriiM'd 
 
 .l';sciii,us : tl 
 
 le soils o 
 
 f i>: 
 
 'I'l 
 
 a as the 
 
 and the soii^ o 
 
 f Clfa as the niin 
 
 Sometimes the little clans so c 
 
 hoppin,ii;s ; 
 alk'd after 
 
 their founder's personal iia 
 
 III winch 
 
 me i;a\i' their own di'>iL;nation to the hamlet 
 thev settietl, as the I !eorcin,L;s did to I'.arkini;-. the Totiiiifs to 
 Tootinu', and the Wappin.us t,, WappiiiL;. Sometimes they adiled the descrip- 
 tive siittixes hum. irniHi. fnn, or />iin/. -as the I'eadin.us did at l'addin,i;toii. the 
 It I'.iHinus-atc, the islint^sat l>lin,utoii. the Kikeiisinu's at Ken>in,ntoii. 
 It Neuinutoii. Thus the Itoinaiio-r.ril ish city of l-ondoii, 
 
 liillini 
 
 an< 
 
 I the Newiiiv- 
 
 a merch;iiit coiiimoiiwfaltii. isolated within its ..wii ^tout Italian walls on 
 Towi'r. was uiit loiiiid do.-elv on everv side liy intrusive village 
 
 the hills l>v the 
 
 communities of con.piering heathen Teutonic pirates. The districi of the 
 Kodin^s. aiitl the town of |!;.r;<ing (which is its centre). l>oth preserve names of 
 
 iiaracter. .\t a later date liaiking was the site of 
 
 t!ii> aiitiipie patronymic i 
 
 line o 
 
 f tl 
 
 arliot aniom 
 
 Ka>t Sason convents, famous from its first 
 
 em 
 
 lowniciit for wealth ;iiiil miracl 
 
 (r.xeii ill tliese 
 
 atti 
 
 nil 
 
 lu'liex inn' ila\: 
 
lOtt 
 
 77//; ■/•//' I/. /■// 1 "/''^ 
 
 we .1 
 
 11 kiidw tlial III' 
 
 .in\ vmI! -Ii 
 
 II work \M>ii.l' iv ' '\'\\i- N"M 
 
 IIIK'll wli' 
 
 sallri 
 
 I ii|i till' ThaiiK 
 
 clurill- AltVr.l- Ivi-U .l,>lrnNr.i 111.- llMin.' "f III.' 
 
 liciH'.li.'liiM' iiun- 
 
 tuil it \\a> 1(^1. Ti 
 
 ,1 l.\ K.l-.ir 'l'.- Mauiiili'''"'. :"" 
 
 rriiiai 
 
 iir.l tlinni-linui ill.' ^i\ (•.•iiliirif- "f 
 
 th.' lal.i 
 
 Mi, I, II. • A-.- |l 
 
 \r ''li-a 
 
 IC-.I nf 
 
 tli,' w.allliv Kii.u'li-li ii'"'"i 
 
 Til.' \l.t>.'— laiik.'.l a-> a Laii'ii.'-". an.) 
 
 t.i.ik I 
 
 .'I'li.ra 
 
 irrrc 
 
 1,.,, f all .-tli.T al.l..".-.'- ill 111.' vnIi. 
 
 •t l'.ii'_Maii 
 
 I At ll 
 
 1 wreck aii.l x'laiiil'K' "t' tl 
 
 iMv.MliiliMii ihi- -i.l.'ii.li.l .'ii.l..uiii.'iil 
 
 w.'iit till' Nvav 1.1 
 au.l til.' .>iil> I'ai 
 
 all ..I 
 
 li.T- ill.' al.i..'\ .ll" 
 
 ivli wa- n 
 
 itlil.'^-lv il.'iii..li-li.' 
 
 t ,,t' til.' iii.l'l.' Knil.'.iii'-:'- wlii.'li 
 
 • t'..nii l.fl iiita.-l t'.ir 
 
 (iiir |)r.'-.'ii 
 
 t .i.'l.'.'taiinii i- a tVa'^iii.'iii 
 
 ,t- til.' -..li.l tiirr.'t.'.l 'S-iU' t..\\. r tV.-m 
 
 hicll til.' .'lllt'.'U 
 
 1„11 11-.'. 1 t'..riii.'rl\ I" I' 
 
 niii'j 
 
 111.' ni 
 
 •lir :iIm.\.' ill 
 
 alf\va\ -taiiiU .iiil.t} "t' i'- .J'^.n' 
 
 hi..ii.'.i |.atr..ii -aim. an.! tli.' .niiitix 
 
 IMMlll t 
 
 he I'liap.'l "f ill.' II 
 
 I. Is i; I 11 
 
 1^ Ui.W 11" 111. 
 
 liiDlial i.'iiiaimii'^.^ -a\.' 
 
 llir si-aiilv iiiai 
 
 k- ..f 111.' ..l.lit.ral.'.l i-.li.'f l.ar.'lN i la.-.al.l.' ii|..>ii lli- 
 
 alil 
 
 .ti.iic \sal 
 
 Hcituii (la-Wink 
 llic lii'_' ii-.'ii .i.l'> 
 
 -I- il-.'lt t. 
 
 Im' tl 
 
 M' lal'L!!' 
 
 ,t ill til.' w.'ll.i. \\\\U 
 
 lianl l.\ lia- pillar- lik 
 
 r -i.lll.' 
 
 I>'lll| 
 
 ill', w ii ll 
 
 lni;,'.' 111'.' 
 
 l.iii utilitarian lix.lrauli.- .laii.' 
 
 im- uiil..a.iiii;i iIl' .•.■lli.i- lli:'' I" 
 
 l.\ at til.' wliafM- 
 
 Tln'.H'^li (ialli..!!- Il.a.li. I.il \v .'.ii 
 
 i'.aikiii'^ Ci.'.'k an. I W....i\\ i.'li. ll 
 
 I'Ufl' 
 
 cnll-l 
 
 tinW- I'll citil.'l' i'aiil 
 
 licIW.'.ll K.'llli-l 
 
 1 -.111 
 
 t'.H til.' Il.illll -ll"!'. 
 
 ■t- i<\' a 
 
 lit <<\' I 
 
 lir \'.;\>\ llaiii L.'\. I laii.ith.i '-n 
 
 II,- lit' th.' i.'VV iMlii; 
 
 I'l I'lallii.'.l 
 
 ,t l.'I.'li.-'. 111. 
 
 lu.l.'.l till -.ilii.' ilix'l 
 
 K. lit 
 
 Til.' All..'ri l».'.lx 
 
 hc'lli- ll. 
 
 n . till.'.' null- in 
 
 iitat.l.' r.'a-.iii in Ol' .'"IiiiIn "I 
 liii-tli. liii.'.i "11 l."lli 
 
 ,1... ,,i,|, !• ;,ii.l (». I'.rili-li lii'lia. ^.^^ /.'alan.l Shi|.|.in- ( ■..inpaiiv 
 
 itli. r 
 
 • I'.-at -t.ain.'i'-, an. I li'jhl.'.l llu' ^^ ii"l.' 
 
 w a\ Willi 
 
 tin- ll.'.lli.' lii.Mil 
 
 .trikilr.^ -i'^lit .111 a .lark .'V.iiiliL 
 
 111 i.'k • ni.-.n Ann. liiiiLiiii'. 
 
 li\ Nmniaii 
 
 Miaw al.ii 
 
 tint til.' -II. am \v:lli 
 
 iii'_ III. 'I- I nil . 
 
 lilt tal llni. III. 
 
 river 
 
 U.imi.l t;alli..ii l'..iiil III.' 'Hi: - n^'i'-'^^- -u.l.l.nlv ami ili.' I..ii'. 
 
 1 1\. 
 
 t'l'.iiit "f \\ ...ll^^ i.'li .'..im- iniiii.-.iial. 
 
 int. I t'liil \ 1. ^\ 
 
 III.- Ai-.n 
 
 111 
 
 l).i.'k\ai.l. ill. l.a-in. iIm' iiianv 
 
 tl,. tal 
 
 ., ;,,,,., f|i, r;ill'J.'- "t -I.. I. 
 
 li.ill-e 
 
 all II-.' ..II.' a 
 
 t't.'i' an.itliei 111 iniiil 
 
 ina'jiiiti.'.ii.'. iin 
 
 111' th. nil 
 
 •veiiint: >k\. wiili SIlmiI. 
 
 - Hill el.i-ill'J ill 
 
 till' \i.\\ I.. lan.l\Nal.l, i'i.is\n.-.| 
 
 |i\ til.' ii'jK tun. 'I .>t' Sesei'ii.lro.t;; 
 
 Ca-l 
 
 1,-. 111.' [.all "f L'.n.l. 
 
 n i- lie'^inniii; 
 
/ 
 
 A7.777/ .liV/> WOOfAVn'If. 
 
 107 
 
 
 'iu- 
 
 ilMmr "■-- -^^^.-vJt^f^ -^ _ 1 1 1 1 '^i nritiiai^ii^i 
 
 . -.l.l.liiN s lil'.M'll. 
 
 to c.vir ihr \iill.'y of the Tli;niifs nii citlici- side imw : tlir dciisi- ton' 
 limits -Inniiiilv (i\cr the l'l;ii>t<i\\ mid KasI Ham l-cvcls ; tlif forest nf 
 masts that ihinii-s tin' \'ictni-ia and AUxTt DncUs slmws dimly t lir«ni,i--li 
 til,, iiii-l ii|i(in i!ir (i|i|Hisitc slimr ; and tlir myslcrimis factoiics of North 
 Woolwi.li dis|»ii>r Mack «Mirl> of smoke and wonderful stenclies o\ci- tlie 
 whole -III inundinu <lusky reaches, 
 
 At Wodjwicli fni- the lirst time we meet the (hinili itaf.uv in full foi-ce, 
 lii,,ii-h a few of the l\|ie may now and a^aiii l>e found as low down tlie 
 ii\er a-> (davesend itself. \i<\\v ilund> har-v has no mast. sail, or n: Ider. 
 Iml consist- >impl\ of ;i -real oi.loii- tloatiii-' l>o\. with a pair of Ion-- 
 >N\ee|.- for >ol.' |ic(i,noti\e a|p|ia ,,lus. Slie moves 1. roadside on for the 
 Hiwst n.Mi. eaiTie> sixty to a hundred tons, ami uvts periiet ually in every- 
 Hiie's wa\ all the elfoils of her inotley crew (who are incongruously clad 
 Inic cojit and soft hall Im in- spent s(.lely in trying to keep her in the 
 |,||,, ,,|- til,, |j,|,, hrifiiii- i- her one and only mode of motion, and she 
 
 ,iw>e of anchored craft, or u'ets a lioundin;.:' 
 
 Ill 
 
 mil 
 
 drive- 1 
 
 a~iia!l\ aci'o-s tin 
 
 cannon o 
 
 alh. wil 
 
 If t ;:e \n)\\ ot a iiioN iii^ >teaiuer 
 
 liv way of puttiiiL;- her in the liuiit 
 li ,-i -kill which not hill-- Iml louu practice couhl 1>\ any possihiiity 
 
 rem 
 
 lei fi'asii.le. She i- not loved indeed I ly other ves els. ".Man ali 
 
 \i', 
 
 ■lied \i\< 
 
 .Ippi'l ol one -llcll 
 
 li craft lo our uciitle remoiistiances after a 
 
 ■riou- iiiimp. 
 
 die hurt \ on '. W'liv, 
 
 he wduldii t crack an e 
 
 The hm-- 
 
 „,at is \..| another I \ pc of dumii craft, clinker liiiilt, and sharp fore and 
 ,fl much -m,dler than the duiiii) iiar-c and used for the carriaiiv of tea. 
 
108 
 
 77//; rii>\i. rii\yi:s. 
 
 >ilk, iui.l Mil -.rt^ nf v.-.lu.-.l.!.' - N TIl.Tr is, ny \v,.s. in.nvov.T. M llni-l 
 
 l„,....l. tl.r .linil. li-lit.T. 11..U i..il.:ii.s almuM .Miiwt Si I aiiLi.-t ..f all. 
 l.nNxrv.T. a,!...,,- tl,,. rrafl imt ,.,o,...ils l..lnnuin.: I-, lli-' 'rhinn,- it.rir aiv 
 ,1„. stra.v ,rni,k.-N l-Mt- tVni,. tl.r Mi.Uau.U nil. I Hii .nin,ul.;..u. paint. . I "\>v 
 NNith lu.lr lai..U.a|.r. an.l liiMoiiral i-i-tin.-. Tli.-r |«a.rtnl .Tafl air Lv i.o 
 inraii- liaj.pN ..nt>i.l.' th,' -luirt uat... uC tl.- Mi.llaii.i .-aual^, ami ll.r l.mvM,- 
 i-M-i'A ^^nuu■u an.l -iusKy .l.il.livn ^^\^U th.i. .•..tt..n .un tn^nn.!- -.in >a.lly 
 .„„ .,,• pla.v ..n til.- i..u.r liv.T. a~ tli..u-h Imi-in:: t-. !..• f.xv.-l aldii: .ni.T 
 ,„.,iv !•> til.' ..1.1 li.'is.' -.11 th.' .lull .anal path Th.' Tiian..- I.aiu..- -...ins 
 ,n tak.' a >i...ial .Lli-lit in t.M>in'j aii.l tni m-ntinj tli.--' hi. ali.n M. p- 
 l„..tli.r- uitli all til.' \i-..r..ii-. .lialV in.i.i.ntal i.. lii> u.^A•■ pr..f. ~.i..ii 
 
 W.M.Kvi.li lia- pas-.l tin-null niaii\ x i.i^>ini.|.-. 'lli.' -r.'at -nii pla.v 
 xva> ..n.'.' a pi.tt.v rural wat.iM-l.' tnxMi. ami it^ .•n,„iM..n Mill piv.,i\.> 
 s..ni.' <\u-\\ ni.'ni..r\ ..f it^ tii-t .-tat.'. i'.nt tli.' I..ii- iis.rtV..nt lnnn> tli.' 
 
 v,.,v lit',' an.l >..nl nf .l-in W.M.hv i.li. win-.' nam.- at ..ii..' pi-.^laiin- it 
 
 a ,v/.-. </•/./,. or an.l. ..la-.- Mati..n ..f tl,.- ..M li.'atli.n S.an.liiiax iaii piiat.-. 
 Th |),.,'k\ai.l was til.- ..I.I.T '<\' its two piiii.ipal .M ahli-lini. nl s, im,\\ 
 ,.,-lipsr.| l.\ f/,. .\rs.nal .tli.iv i^ n,.n.' ..th- i in tli.- r.iitisji .|,,inini..nsi. a va>l 
 .livarv aiva of ,liinm.'\ >ta.-k>. funia.vs. M.aii. Iiaiiiiii. r- I inil.. r sia.k-. ril.an.i- 
 .aw-, jix.liauli.- nia.liin.-.. aiiiinunit i.Mi .mi riaui-, an.l oih.i .uiinin-lv .l-vi-..! 
 iiistriini.iits of i.niui.- f..r as>ailinu tlif .■>.■>. .ais, noses, jiinus. .T-aiis, aiul 
 s.iis.-t.iniinals u.n.Tallv ..f tli.- unhappy \isiioi .lul\ pr..\i.l.il with a ti.k.'t 
 ..t .•oiiilnittai toi that ipU1|io-.- lioiii lli.' .'onM it lit.. I ant h-i it h- ol th. \\ ar 
 ((ffi,- ■ oth.T i.-.'o'unis.il otlhial t.. that .n.i app..inti.l Those ^\ ho will 
 
 ina\ .-oiisi'ii 
 
 t t.i I"' 1..1 tlir..u-h all that wliiiiin-. hissiuir nia/.- ot w 
 
 an. 
 
 1 haii.ls an.l f..iu.-s and L'.aiinus . to iiisp,,t tli.' tour mil.- .ir.uit ..t 
 
 -II11 fi.'toii.s, ami lalioiat.iii.s, an.l .ania-.- .I.pai t iii.ii 
 
 ts, an.l iiioi tisiiij 
 
 >rks . to h.'ar l.ariie.l i\|il:iiiatioii- 
 
 if w.l.linu .'oils. foiuiiiL; hi 
 
 III ..•.•III s. Il 
 
 iiiiiU 
 
 na\.s, plaiiin;^ t'.llo.s, iin..niiii; poVMl.r cas. 
 
 I'f 
 
 -t ..f it 
 
 i\- our ow 11 |ia 
 
 It, W.' I 
 
 iiit'.'i ui'.a 
 
 iii-l 1 u.-tiii'_' fu/. s, ami all th. 
 tl\ to li.' up ipii.'tly licsi.h 
 
 til.' ais.nal wharvf 
 
 with tlu'ir giiiii uaiiiit .ran.' 
 
 th.ir ilin of h.a\ 
 
 metal, ami tli.'ir -t.iut onlnam 
 
 st.ll. 'I 
 
 Il -hips 1\ inj t 
 
 o 111' loai 
 
 l.'.l 
 
 11. a\ US 
 
 al.inu-H 
 
 .sliole loUll". T' 
 
 Ml ol.l. I of liep 
 
 III III! Iltal re. I tap.- I II.- Ui'^'lj 
 
 -ill of loiiu- 
 
 li\ the o|i| |)oi-k\a|-.l. th.' Iiiiss throiiu of steam. Is aii»i 
 
/ 
 
 I'.inrii wit w'iKu.wirii. 
 
 100 
 
 iiHTcliiindiifii ;iii(t cullii IS inul lii-s in tli.' ini<MI<' sliv.-nii. mi" iiKnv dfli.nlitfiil 
 tu v\v iiiwl c'lr lliMii tlir |i\i.inii.ls ..f sliul ;ni(l -lu'll, iln' iniHi.uis of 
 Mnrtiiii llnirv l.iillcts, ;iimI \hv \n\v-i find >liiiltrivil .unn- nf tlio 
 •• lM.s|.iliil ' ui- •• rrniclcrv." which |i.inii tli.' stiiplf si-hls nf liir .uTciit Arst inl. 
 M'Mv |i:ith('ti(' fiir liiiin hn.ivrn -iin> nr .Aplnihd -li-Hs ^s ihr si-lit of 
 
 th. i!.'I|.h'>s iVii-nirnts nf i (■(• nii,uhly ft i-.il''. now lirin- ilisinrinl.civd 
 
 iif lit.' -iiiiil.ivid<in- \Jird I'm- tind.cr iind nirlal. KmivImhIv uim ivalisrs 
 
 lllK Al.llKin l"M'K. 
 
 
 ,|„. lit,. ,,!' tlir sea. thr indi\idualil,v and iicr-nnalil.v of a Iti-' sjii]). canni.t 
 |i,l|. iv.'c.-nisin- tin' nndcrlvin- |.atlins iA' \vv final sad caianiitv. In no 
 ,,,|„,,- |„(.durt nf man's han.linall dors rnin ^M nmrli ivscnd.lc tlfatii as in 
 til,, .-as.' of a .uival and famous \r-.scl. K\rn iiistoiir l.niidin.us arc oiilv, 
 .,!,,,,. J, II, inert niassrs nf stone and mortar; I'Ut tlic sliip trnl.v \va!i<s the 
 \\at.r> ■■ lii^<• a tliin-- of life." and lias a di^tin.i vitality of lici' own wliicli 
 evnv sailor instinctively fccU and ah' ays acis upon. Nay, it has formulated 
 j,^,,lf in tlie \v\\ form and strncluiv of nnr ordinarily uvndcrlcss Knulish 
 lanuua-v. tnr whil. every niiier manufactured ol.jeet is m"rely //. the ship 
 n'tains hei' ancient feminine p.^rsonalitv intact as sl„: It is n<.t merely that 
 >he has mot lull ami ener-.x , while all t.'rrestrial Imildin-s aiv fixed and 
 
Il< 
 
 rut: mm. /v/ii/zx 
 
 i,„„...l.il.. . ll,.. .iinivii.u u.n.l. r uf tl,r -l.il. u.-^ .I.r,...| -Inun ;. •• I -I-mI 
 
 in ,1„. un.aNrllr.1 ;.i..l .iumiii.Is ^i.Llr .nUMinnMir.. ..f -ailni. tli;.i. Mi.l, lunv 
 MirtM.v iv,.^n„iMu :.> tl.i.t. Til.' ^l.il. l.a. -.|M.i.l;iMril> . lia- a n.ii..l nf li.r 
 uNvn. li..^ a -liMiii.t iiiWixi.Iual |.nu.r nf innialinu in..ti..n. lia. .,.n..I-mi.- 
 ,N,ii a >..rl of Mlfwill ..r ^aiirx spirit nf ni.i.,.,iii,,ii m li.r ^ki|.|.ri- vm-Im- 
 Tl„- siilnr fr.U in l.i. lir;ul llial lii^ -liil' i- "■•> """'^ •"' '""" ''''"-• 
 it is. t.. M.mr .xt.i.I. alii.M.t ii iisii.u aii.l vnlitinnal i..iu- St.:Hh.r>, .v.n. 
 .,,,. „....•!, inniv >f than >ailiiiu v. ■.>.■!>; iImv ;..t pa^-iv -In , liUr M.r.v 
 
 „K..iiii..-. V.m tun M.atn. ami iImn um alinul . \nu luni it ..IV. .an.! 
 
 tlir\ Malnl M..rl..>till : \nU iv\.l>r ill.' .l.uil.r, all.! ihrv WarU l.alil.all v . 
 
 NNitlinU, . Ml.-lr |.lm.;:r nr a llin|,„in> lirMtalioH. JiUt a >aiii...J N.'.M'l has 
 
 I,..,- ,,\s,, ;lt!lr |.,T-niial Iiirls- n\' maiiiMi , li-i | ,a !l i.ii la 1 !Ml,asi..ur Hh.l.i- 
 ,.v,i- kiiri ..f will. I .'!■ vN.atinr. ..r -.a ny ninvut : ami iIm- -ail.o- Kim-nxs 
 \*.!l A\ 111.-.' Miiall i".iiit- ill hn t. iii|..i .-r li.r .liaiartrc. aii-i i- I'r.'U.i ..f 
 i,,.,- i, . ,:.',iii.Lr tlM'iii- an. I ..f liini-.lf t'..r linini: l-ainl .Aa.tU Imw i.. 
 liuni.Mir .- niana-r tlmn. li.r x.r.v faults li.ll. u< .1, m,, n tli.- lailarinus 
 iv-.nil.lan.-.- i.. |.iii |...-iv.' <<r int.>Hi,i:.'nt a.-iicm Shr lia> li.r lailin--. a> uf 
 nuMtaU ,,ui>rl\,- liavr. -If i- uilfiil ..r lia-ls. ..i -l..u "V -.1-1 inair \'<n 
 
 ^,.,.,1, t,, !„■ (halinj \\illi an .a-.i. Iii-li -fii il.-'l all'.-.ii.mal.' ani 1. that 
 
 ,,,.,.,1-. ntiu I.. Iir riirlMMJ an. I i.in.-.l in. n..\\ a-ain h- !..■ -i.nir.il aii.l uiu.'.l 
 fnivvai.l. an.l n.iw -iii.-.- ni"!-' t.. !..■ .aivtully .aj..!..! an.l I In .aLii..!. aii.l 
 ,„.tt,il an.l liinii..ni.-.l. t.. niak.' li.r r..ii-.' li.a .ii.t-i.- f..r -..ni.' -.ri.iU-. 
 ,-tV..rt ..n ulii.'li li.'r .-un lit'.- an.l llial ..fall li.r .avu ai.' irr.t i i.\ al.l\ Mak.-.l 
 aihl lia/,ar.l..|. 
 
 \,i,| uh.n ill. -lii|> i- ii"t ni.r.l\ ..in- that lia- -.rx..! li.r Inn.' 
 
 ul.M-uivIv in -..ni.' niiiP.r -.rvi.-.-. I.nl i- a -r.at an. I .-ii.-.- h iii.-.l ..tli.vr 
 
 .,f til. Stat.'. Willi a nam.' tan I irl\ ii..\Mi t.i !iiin.ii..l- •>\' lli..u-an.U ..I 
 ;.//.,•./'/'■'/'. a Shnninii. an .1;/'/" "//. an .[hnuk,,. an //"/' 
 
 l-aiuli-liin.ii a 
 Ihih' . a M'li'ifi 
 
 /! 
 
 II III , a It II I'l'mi' . a 
 
 / nlllj 
 
 I llllll' III 11^ 1 1 
 
 ic »in-.' ." 
 
 t' li. I iii.li\ i.hialil \ 
 
 111. I |M'r»'iial (Ai-t>nr.- lii-.-..in.- 
 
 ■Mil -iriiir^.-r ami .l..'i 
 
 I .l.i'iH r than .mi. TIi 
 
 llniinl S'lO i-l'lii. that tic. 1(1. 11 l»r\il 
 
 ,f ihf I Milih, uhi.-h i.laM.l ill.- <l.\ il 
 
 III. 
 
 led with tli.il 
 
 ll..l> .Inrin.; tl 
 
 If '.^r.'a 
 
 1 ( i.iniw.lliaii w at-, ami u In.l. 
 
 ua- i.riuina 
 
 ||\ I. nil' at ihi- \<a\ .l.»-k 
 
 W 
 
 til. H'ti/'ii '/'.'/•</■ 
 
 all. .III. ■ 
 
 W.M.lui.li-i.uilt h.r..in.\ that li..lr.l ..\.i al h.i i inu- 
 
 w I 
 
 III all 
 
 i 
 
III! nil \M> Wniil.WKII. 
 
 Ill 
 
 l„,;,nl . th.' Viilnni. wliirl. cMi-rird N.-lsn, to .Initl. iiii.l ^Uy 
 Tr;i»:il"!ir; iill llicsf liiivr ;i UjhI (if liist..ricMl iil.'iUit.v almost as iriil iim 
 
 llcf cifV nil 
 
 at 
 
 tluit lit' the ^TcMl ruimnamlcis wlm nncc sni 
 
 I,., I in tin-Ill. And wln'ii siirli 
 
 a siii| 
 
 liiii lia-i at la^t tn lir li.wrd, iiUi' I 
 
 lir tiyiitiii-' 7 
 
 nnrriDi'i', 
 
 to licr last 
 
 tiioor 
 
 iiiijs, ami i.inkiii ii|. Iicl|>lcsslv for tli«' nifiv vii'ii' 
 
 pf litT ilraii materials. 
 
 tlir i-atlios. .■.jl taiirirnl aii.l iiiiairiiiative as it amiaily is, yrt risfs to a very 
 |,i;;li point of smisihle frrlin- Wr l.-ls upon tiir laM >a.l ol,Hoquies almost 
 ,,s ur mi.Jit in .k upon tlir -pr.Marlr of a i.oi.l,. rl,a i-vi- ^say . WVllii.-toirs 
 ("o,H>nlia-.'n l.limi ami l.Miir, and trrl.i.. and a-rd. Im-iiiu' led alon- in his 
 ural, last da\s to ,, kna-^kors >liami.los. Tim /''/////' doos due ivvHvnn. 
 tn tim NNoin-nut old iVi-at.. as si,.- passes l.rfoiv li.T liiial ivstiii-place ; 
 Mild tiir /•'//////•> new ivniosv the .•ontmiiplativr pipe iVoiii tlieir lips, 
 Mild -ivr a last faivwrll uitli voire and pencil to lier deseciat.'d timlMTs. 
 
 l!IM:\hlM; 1 1- iV "'I' KiMKMI.. 
 
^%^.4^«#^^ 
 
 . Ilhl. N « ll II ll'i>!l 1 U 
 
 (II \i'Ti:ii \ 
 
 s i; \ i; I N 1. I .1 \ |M I \ 
 
 T ^y^ '^T^v^ 1 1 1 : .liMii.t iMii- ii .Ii:il.l.\ I" 111' ^^<-' "'■ \N'"'l\vi<li '■"" 
 
 ""^ -litui'- llir aiifirin .-tii.irx <>f ih-' ii\<r ■.•■■•. 'li'' l"iiiiMl:iiy 
 Mi.Min l"t\\.rii i:-r\ ,111.1 Mi. Ml. -IN. ail.! ill.' \\li..l.- .'f tlii- 
 wi.l.' llai. ii'.w .li.iiii.'.l .111.1 .ml. link. .1 ini.l-r tin- \,'iri..u- iiaiii.'. 
 ,,f ill.' Ul.' ..f I >..::>. I'.u--.1.>> Mar>li.-, an.l tli.' I'lai-t..\\ 
 |,..v.-l. iviiiaiii.-.l till aliii..-t liiM..ii.' tiiii.s a \a-t l.ia.ki^li l-.^.l. -•-.v.Tr.l 
 !«;.•.■ .lailv tliP.ii-lH.ut it^ uli.tl' .At. lit l.\ til.' 1 imiii- ti.l.' r.N.ti M> 
 
 lat.' a-> til.- >la\-i wli.ii tin- I. -i. .iiai !.■ 
 
 .if Aillil-^ I'lailtin- iiiaKJi.il il..\ui 
 
 Watliii- Stiv.t t.. turlity at'iv-li "ii K.iiiiaii j.i iii.-i|.l.- tli.- -t .-■ka.lr.l \illa'_'«' 
 |,v th.' '/"/' ..f 1... II. I. .11. lli.v -au l..t'..i.' 111. Ill .a NNi'i'- .Aj.aii-.- ..f iii.ir>li .a,,'l 
 ,i l.iiiik, wlii-li .at liijli wat.r ..--mii.'.i iIm- .liai ,a.». a ..)' .a tl.M..|.'.i li..i>i 
 
 i;it ill.' 'riiaiiH- li.r.- . iii|iti..l 
 
 liiu.l 
 
 i.r a 
 
 rill lit til" 
 
 Iti'iii. ill 
 
 .ii>i.|iii-.| that III. 
 
 it-clt mill til.- ."•.an, •'< 
 
 ■ r.iiiil ami .III. -II \\a- 
 
 tlii- 'jiral -iir.-airiii'j >uil'.-i.-<' 
 
 ,t" that \.-f illiliriill.-.l li'l.al lii.l. Nil lil.aili- llan ilil. T-.-.'li 'I tin- l-.'.l\ llat> 
 
 II., .l\k.- tli.n i.l.-iiii. li till- wai.-r wiiliiu 
 
 with lli.n iliiii.-^ 
 
 ami -lui. 
 
 lixi-(l iili'l iiaiiii" alii 
 
 li.-ial liiiiil^ Him- aim <if tli'- Im-.- ua>li. r.iii>tiluti-.l 
 
/ 
 
 m 
 
/ 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 

 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 150 ^ I 
 
 I.I 
 
 2.5 
 
 ti^m 
 
 ^ I4£ 12.0 
 
 II 
 
 iiiiim 
 
 
 L25|||U 
 
 11 — 
 
 
 4 
 
 6" - 
 
 
 ► 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4S03 
 
p 
 
/ 
 
SEMUNG LONDON. 
 
 113 
 
 l»y tilt" coiilliii'iin' of til. two rivei-rt, Htrt'tclitMl iiortliward for nmiiy miles 
 iilnii-; the vnlli-y nf tlic liCii ; the other exteiidetl westwiird .iloiig the 
 
 >r th 
 
 Th 
 
 fi 
 
 the I) 
 
 <IK 
 
 lit 
 
 rfiiclH's oi tlif MOW stoiu'-;,nrt I liniiieH jus tar lis iiie DouiKiieMs sail morasses 
 of Itiiltcisf.i aixl LaiiilH'th. A f,neat laji,'ooii, in faet, then eoveied almost 
 till' wholf of the modern metropolitan area, and from its solitaiy Hats rose 
 ■if loiii; intt-rvals tin- marshy eyots ami shallow hithes wliieh afterwards 
 foriiicd the imriri of thr little intrusive colonies of Knylish pirates. Only 
 one promontory of solid land projeeted into the midst of this sfoniinj,dy 
 Itoiindless waste of waters ; and that was the ridjjfe of tertiaries thrown 
 out from the hi,u:h ,'.;ronnd of llampstead on the north, and terminatin<; 
 southward in the Ciltie ilim or petty hill re,yion that lies between the 
 valley of the KK't-t river aiiu the ditches once spread beneath the mound 
 of the Tower. Kvcrythiii;;- else in modern London or its riverside suburbs 
 hiis been slowly recovered from tin- tidal Thames by drainat-e or aititieial 
 embankments ; and the la;,'ooii still remains as a wide low-lyinn' sheet of 
 alluvial silt, scatterctl anion;,' the oeeasional risiny hillocks of more solid and 
 ancient tertiary deposits. 
 
 I'.v slow depees the combined estUiiry of the Lea and the Thames 
 has been reclaiiiu'd and drained through artificial processes. A traveller 
 sailini; up stream from tlie (iaiilish coast, by the accustomed ancient channels 
 of the Wanlsiiiii aiul the Swale, saw on either liaml nothin;;' Imt low 
 marshes and tidal flats, save in a Uw rare spots where the chalk approached 
 the l>aiik of the river, till he reached the projeetin.u; <lmi or hillock of 
 Celiic London itself That low promontory, risinij; some fifty feet above 
 liii,di-fide mark in tin- Thames, and divided into two mini»r hei-hts (Ludji-ate 
 Hill and Cornliill, with Tower Mill) l>y the petty v\\\w of tlu- Wallbrook, 
 formed the fiist spot in the tidal mei'c where lu- could i>riii>i- his ship close 
 ii|i to a firm shore ; ami the reach of the river which stretches in front of 
 Ibis natural laiidiiiiiplace i^'ars to this day the characteristic Celtic name 
 of the Pool. On this favoured spot, lii.nli up the Imi.ne.st tidal stream in 
 all Kuroi»e, surroiintled i>y tli." tleep estuary of the united rivers to the 
 east anil south. defeii(hMl by the Kleef morasses on the west, and backed 
 up to northward bv the vast fen or moor which nives a name even now 
 to iMiiihuivh, Kinsburv, and .Moor-ate, the native Celtic inhabitants had 
 
/ 
 
 111 
 
 TUK TIDAL 77/1. )//>'. 
 
 ,,,il, ,|u-ir storkn.lr,! .h>n or hill to.t.vss. Tlu- IJo.naus s.-iz,-,l at our. n,H.n 
 ,1,0 s,.K.,uU.l o,.|.n.tunitv tor a t.a.lin^ ntv anunl..! l.v this ,u-a.vs. lan.lin;,- 
 ,.lao. au.oM^ tlu- .n...asM.s ol" ,1.. n.i.MK' Tl.a.nrs, IVIuv.. llu- ris.n^ of 
 i;.,a<luva .v.n. Ilo.nan l.un.lun ha.l un.un into a tlouri^l.iuK l-.t. an.l as 
 ,Ik. rl.i.f cntnrot of tlu- wl.olr islan.i. it fon.u.l tl.. .vnt.v NNlnu.v tl.r 
 ^.vat lu'twork of roa.;. an.l ranM^avs .liv.,;;..! in Ion;: ra.liatin;: spok.s 
 ,., ,h, furtlu-st c.xt.vM.iti.s of ti... I'.ritannio inovin.rs. |)oul.tlr>s tl.. san,.- 
 :;,vat .nuin.rrs who ,.lann..l that vast svstr.n of >oli.l hi;:hwavs an.l th.- 
 massive walls ..f an.M.nt h..n.|..n. also .h.si,^n,..l ,h.. ti.s, hanirrs to .h.vk 
 ,1k. tidal waters of th. L.a an.l Thanu-s. At anv rat,., tlu-.v is hanll.v 
 anv ..tiRT a-e t.. whi.-h th.' ..li-inal ..nhanknunts .an !..• vxith anv |.r..l.- 
 ahility assi.u^n..! : an.l th. ..xist.n.v ..f a It.m.an snl.nrl. at S.mthwa.k i.n.v.s 
 ,i,at s..n.e iK.rti..n at h-ast of th.' wi.U- nxnass ha.l in.'n m'lainH.l .luiin- tlu' 
 rtouiishin;; «la\s .)f the lu-ovinc. il t'lnpiii'. 
 
 TIk' .listiict l..'tw,rn wh..>.' hi-h l.ank> w.- aiv sailin- sl..wl\ t.. .lay. 
 win.lin- ..ur way with .lith.-ulty an...n- sfanurs. har-.s. roHi.rs, an.l 
 „U'.rhantMu.n. n,. tlu' tnlions .tnt.h.'. ..f Ih.ushys ll.a.'h. an.l ..n t.. (in.n 
 wi.h. tonns a i...iti..n ..f th.' tia.'t thus early w.vsf.l fnnn th.- .ta'.M.ant 
 
 , Is of th.' s,.a an.l tl,.' .iv.r. Unt th.' n',lan.ati..n was n..t fnlly 
 
 arron.plislK'.l ..r st'cu.v.l l.v any ..ne sin-h' -.n.'. at ion Titn.' aft.r tin..' th.' 
 wat.T lmr>t its hanks on.-.' n,....-. an.l s.ry hiuh ti.l.s ,na.l,' fiv.,n.'nt 
 l.iva.'h.'s alon- th.- n.o>t .'Xi...s..l i..'..ts -.f th.' . is.r fnmta,u.- hnii.ii: th.- 
 Mi.l.ll.' A-.s th.' -nat n.onast.ri.s of l..sn,'s an.l Stiatlonl. an.l th.- 
 „„nnm ..f I'.aikin.Lr Ahhey. un.h'it....k th.' work ..f |...'>.'.\in'_' th.' low 
 lands. In th.' ni-n of ll.nty VIII. th.' Ion- pn.i.'.tin- tiat n.ar L.an.-s.s. 
 kn..w,. l.v the ..u|.h..nious ,itl.' ..f Ih.-.l-vs Ma.sh.'>. xva. innn.lat.'.l hy a 
 hi-h ti.l.'. an.l n'e..v.re.l hy tw.. Italians nani.'.l A.-n/.i.. an.l liattista 
 Ca.sti-li..n.'. The north hank wa.. h.va.'h.'.l at Wappin- an.l Linn'h..us.- as 
 lat.' as th.' sixt.'.-nth .'.ntniy. an.l th.- .Ir.aiy wa>t,' ..f th.- Ish' ..f h..j,'s, 
 the main hl...'k ..f the \a-a .'stua.y. has l-.-n >nl.n..'i-.'.l many tinu's, an.l 
 with .lilliculty ..'.'ov.'iv.l. Kvn t-. this .lay tl...,.l> n.i.tin.ially eaUM- -i.at 
 ilaina^'e in Lan.h.th an.l S..nthwaik. whii.' ih.' low .li-^tii.ts al...v.' an.l 
 hrlow an' liahh' to e.msi.l.Tahl.- .lama-.' wh.n.'X.'i' hi-h ti.les happ.'n t.. 
 oijici.le with .stormv .ir vei v wet weather. 
 
XKMiixr, rjLvnox. 
 
 ur, 
 
 
 On the fitliiT liiiml, advaiitiiLjf liiis Ih'i-ii (jiktii <if tlii-si' rcclaiincd 
 iilluviiil traots all aloii;; tlic artiticial ctmrM' of tlir <laiiiiiu-(l-iii river tor 
 lilt' const nict inn of ilocks, into wliicli the watiT ran i-asiiv \iv admitted on 
 anount of llicir cxtnini'lv low aiiti <^•|»|•«•^'.st•(l level, ile^^'iniiiii;; at (Jnivesend, 
 for example, the New 'rillMiiv hocks have Iteeii carved ont of tin- flat and 
 misty expanse of the West 'riliiurv Maishes. Next, the l*laist(»\v and Kast 
 Ham levels su|»|ily a convenient site for the Victoria and Alltert Docks, which 
 r ally replace the estnaiy of the Lea on its eastt'in shore. The western 
 estnarv, now the Isle of |)o;,rs. is cut off l>y the Kast India and West India 
 |)ocks, ocenpyinif the depression of a former tidal creek oi' Itackwater, like 
 the one which still severs Canvey Island froin f!ie Kssex main, .lu.st 
 opposite these, on the Surrey shore, the ancit-nt marshes liehinti llotherhithe 
 yive room for the Commercial Docks an<l the (Jrand Surrey. Similarly, 
 the j;ap hetweeii Wappin.u and the Tower Hill atfoids a natural openini,' 
 for the London Docks; the St. Kat liei ines, close l>y, iteinu somewhat nioie 
 stiictly .'irfificial, ami the result of far deeper and more ditlicult excavations. 
 Thus a larm' |iart of the connnon estuary of tlu- Thames and Lea has first 
 lieen carefully reclaimed l)y formidalile enilianknients, and then once more 
 laid under walei- for the needs of the incrt'asin.u' shipping hy a converse 
 process of excavation a'd tloodini;. 
 
 As we thread oui- way cautiously throuuh tiie manifold perils of the 
 <i\vM deep lietweeu Woulwich and tireenwich. the aspect of Natmv (con- 
 sid«-ial.ly moditietl just heiealiout i>y art) urows more and niori' Londoiiy 
 at every tack. The .\tlas stands close hy hen — a pair of .ureat denick.s 
 for unloatliui,' steam cutters, with threi- \n<x arms on either side, which 
 wave cea.M'lessly day :ind ni!,dit. swinj;ini,' the coals out of two steamer.s 
 tot;ether at a time. The coal is shot into iiarues which are l>roUL;ht up 
 thick and fa^t. and drop a.stern into The Tiers, where they wait l)y 
 thousands in a Ion-- line, .\cres of them .stretch aloui;- the river here: in 
 fact, the whole of lUi-sLy's IJeach is entirely -iveii up to Atlas Nund>ers 
 One and Two. with tlnir attendant train of tu,i;s and hari^es. .\ hujre 
 stack of hones stauils ashore, close to .some dust-heajis, whore women and 
 children are picking out the rags and washing then\ clean in the filthy liver. 
 Over the way ai'e chemical works and varnish manufactories with their 
 1' ' 
 
m 
 
 Tin: rii>M. '/7/I '/'>■• 
 
 liol 
 
 ...l..nu. st.-.u.l.. Tl... air is .nil of ,U-ns. l.h-k >n,..k... .n.l a Lia-k .Lw nf 
 
 ,,,,.,„., ,alU .or ..,..• .Von. ,1... .l.ni.ks ..n ,lu- pullu,.,! Xnan. Hv .1.. 
 
 ,,,.. ...• now CV...k ..an.U tl. Tnni.v ll..u>.-. .i.l. n... ...• l.n.,>. .,..,..1 
 
 „„a dK-Mn..n..l. vM an.l .l.i.. anM l.la.k. ...rv >1.,H. an.l >i... in ,.iHnn.s.,uo 
 
 coufMsion. S,..an. .o.-l.o.ns an-l ..x,.,rinHn,al li.h.ln.us,. .ommMc the 
 
 i»ictnn- «>." this rarthlv .•ha..>, 
 
 ,.. th. .\-nvhuns..s ..f ,h,. n.llitarv fvrry .--vthin:: amun.! 
 
 Iv iMixa.h'.! I'.v thi- nM.|nit..iis mark ... 
 
 W 
 
 f ' 
 
 WtKiiwich is ni«Mf i>r 
 the ttrnad anow— am 
 
 l.» |.,iNistfntlv I 
 1 tl,r l.nihlin- shf.l> u.' Chaiitni. pin-, a 
 
 (111 Chailton 
 
 .luicr an.l san.l wha..". an.l tlu- answrrin- slnnr on 
 
 (lie iiuitluiii l>ank. 
 
 w 
 
 hid 
 
 1 mT\C: 
 
 to Irl nUt the a 
 
 ccnnii 
 
 .." 
 
 itilicial lan<l lutw.cn thf ri\«r 
 
 am 
 
 ilat.-.l wjittr t'n.ni tlu- naiiow >ln|. 
 1 the Vi.'toiia Dockv Til.' l>oint to 
 
 \vt-<t wall 
 
 1 is Hookni'ss— airain tlir S,an.lina\ian 
 tiK' mark ..." th.' lVa>t. as his .oiitrmi'orari.s mi 
 
 liiis l.fl /»/« liioiid anoi 
 uht w.ll lia\<' tlM«n-ht it 
 
 il.,lo^Mral rNi.hno. of hi> .Vni.mnt tittl.- .n.ix. n,. >t,van. to .xto.-t 
 
 tin- 1>1 
 
 l,is Danr-i-M from th.' w-althv nunhanl l.nr-h.rs ..f An.ulo Smxo, 
 
 I l.omloii 
 
 Tlu' opi'nin:^ i 
 
 II .Voiit of \is. a> \s< 
 ,1 ,lrl,n,/,/,,if of ihr l-ca riM'i- 
 
 Imm.I .'or r.la.kwail I'oinl. sliuw^ th.> 
 
 iiKxlcrn narrowi 
 
 it. in tliiir maritime slam:, from t 
 
 i'.nw ('ink. till- >ailoi> ral 
 
 luatl. a 
 
 I,,' >nl.nrl. of I'.uw iipou th.' Mili- Kn.l 
 littl.. to th.' noithwar.1. it form> .!..■ iM.iimlarx iM-tvvrm Ks-.a 
 
 ,11,1 Mi.1.11.— \ — the iM.int at \v 
 
 liirli tlir Ka-t Saxon immigrants w.'iv 
 
 •lifckcil ill thtir \vc 
 
 .iwaitl onsi;iii,i:hi> npoii t 
 
 lie Liivat mncliant cil.N I'.v tin 
 
 1 l,.vrls of tiir thru l.i.lf-nriainuMl ailiniai tra.t Tli.' .ii- 
 
 tnci 
 
 mars|ir> am 
 
 Ik'VoihI tlif i-<'a. thr modfrn roiinty o 
 
 f Mi.l.ll.M'X, formc.l ;.f(.i\var.l> tlir minor 
 
 |.rim'i|)iility of the Miihllfsaxons. .If| 
 
 till- sjiiiif littU' ',MDUii of clan rommuiiitics w 
 
 l.-prmhiit on the Kss.x kin--, .loiil.ll. 
 
 lio.sc s.ttl.'m. iit> \\<' have alivatiy 
 
 mitu'i'< 
 
 1 at Wappin-. Krn>in.-toii. I'a.ldin^rton. an 
 
 il the oiliiT siilmiliaii 
 
 ]iatronymii- vil 
 
 Hut thf 'Mvat fily itsd.. s. 
 
 prolialily niiiaimii an imh'|»< 
 
 iiilfnt trac 
 
 ■rwif witiiin it> Itoman 
 liii.r fommonwralth in flosc 
 
 illianrf with thf Ka>t Saxon 
 
 |,i,.fs. Nvlios,' liisliopstool was aft.Mwar.ls pla.v.l 
 
 ,11 thr hill of St. 
 
 I'aiils : for London, in 
 
 the rotri'Ifd scnst-. was m-\cr 
 
 a part of Middlt-M-x, whose count 
 
 V town cvi 
 
 II to tins da\ i> rc< 
 
 koiicd to l)c at 
 
 IllVII 
 
 tfoid. 
 
 n... squalid 1 h-rn sulmihs hcyond the Lea. Ivin- for the most 
 
 part in the populous p; 
 
 111 
 
 ,li of West iiaii 
 
 1. ale CO 
 
 mmoiilv known iiy the 
 
/ 
 
/ 
 
 ytjMiiM! i.oMKiy. 
 
 ii; 
 
 il till,. ,,r •• I lull u\. r llir I'mhiIi'I'." It iiniMt nlwiiys hv ivmciii- 
 
 n)||ui|iiiii 
 
 lifir.l ill I.Mtkiii;,' 111 iIm' sliniiilxfii Lf.i ul" |!u\v Civ.lx jit tlir |>ivs.iit iliiv, iiimI 
 ft)iii|Hiiiii;; it will) tli'' iniiiuii^f i>liiiir\ svliirli mirc s|iitii(l imiiilrniiplftlly 
 t'li.iii Millwiill I.) W.M.iwirli. thill Ihr Nrw l;i\.r (rut l.\ Sir llii;:li Miilill.'tuii, 
 ill llh' iviiiii '••' Kii/.iil'«llH III'- l"ii.u <ii\"'ii<'i l'.\ fiir till- uifiitrr |iiirt of its 
 iiiitiinil I'tt'diis I'm liir w.ilii >ii|i|>l> ••(' Loiitliiii. M> lliiil llif pifsflit lifsli- 
 wjit.r sliv.iiii i> liir snuillir tliiiii its i.ii;L;iiiiil \<'liiiiu', iscii it niiiiiiy:iin'iiltMl 
 |,\ til,, tiilill W.IV tli;il ^\Vt|(t i.f nlil u\(l llir ciitiiv llllliviill iiiinl IliiU nf 
 tlir I'lili-'tnW l,i\tl mill ill"' l-l"' "f hii;is. 
 
 Iltiiiinliiiv; l.riiiii' 
 
 lilltl (illistl\is ;it nlicc ill (Irccliwirli I'cMi'll. lit 
 
 InllLritinlf llotlliliy, il-< nlll' ski|i|Mr li'Vcs In illl|HVss ll|Mill lis ill line t'nllll, :illi| 
 sl.'cr sIlJliLillt <ln\\ll till' lillr yA' 0". Willi tlir <H>-.»IVlltn|V liirill- US nil its 
 
 liiii ill IVdiit. ;iiiil iIm' InwiT riilrjiiici- 
 
 t(i till' West lllili.'l |)nri<s :i!lil til 
 
 ilioilivi' Citv (';iiiiil tViiiitinu tin' ri\i'f mi mir li 
 
 -lit. Tlif liiiiik liiistl 
 
 rs nil 
 
 linth >iilr- witll nil mills. trlt',yril|ill-t'ill>l«' wnfks. illlil lurpfiln lii.ilts. Till' 
 
 \ir\\ oil litlin- liiiiiil n.iniii.iiiils iiiipiirtiallv tlu' l.'iH w.'in'liniisfs ami iron 
 ^lii|.l.iiil.liii,'i -.li|'> III' till' l>l.' i.r hi'us, (.1' tin- .'i|iiall.v ii-ly Icn.'I ^A' I'.u-sl.ys 
 Mni'sli.-s. (Will. \vii> llu-sliy, l.v tin- w.i.v. .iiid wlirii iliil Im' " tinurisli "7 
 - sii\ latliiT. iliiiu I'lit lii"' lili'T fnr it' lir li\ril in tlir .lislrict tliat m.w 
 l.rais Ills iiami' ili'un In an I'asv imim.italily. Ii.' must liavc siitrcrcd 
 
 rioiii lit'r Imiu; auui' an 
 
 ilrnwii liis snniiw-. in Ins nuu irai 
 
 1 iiilriiiiinalili' iU'|M'i'»i t' >|iirits. |iri.ni|iliii,u' liiiii to 
 
 II, ,,!• ill till- How'.il; liowl tliat ti'iiipts liiui 
 
 111 (lay from tin' \\ali'i>iili' | 
 
 ulirschrs ^al'ilv at ( iicriiw iril, pa-silii; t 
 
 Ic iiiiiilic-. of lilt' Isle of |)o,l;s.) 
 
 It last Wf tlml 
 
 lio-,|iital, ami tin' fiitifim; rixfi 
 •■Sliip " l''onil liiiui'iiii'^ \i>ioiis i 
 
 lie familiar fai.-ailc of tin' -irat naval 
 fimit of llic too attrarlivc ami apolaustic 
 if (Ifvilliil wliiti'liait ami of tin' famous crali- 
 
 ji'lly float vauiii'ly tliroiiuli tlir foiirtli li'ft roiivolutioii of oiir .'I'lvlMal lit-mi- 
 
 llir latrst scifiititii' localisation of gustatory 
 
 ilicri's (that. I lulicvr, i- 
 
 liiiaLCinin,i;s iii tin' ma| 
 
 lir map of till' liiaini; Imt wliat would tin- I'liiim-iitly 
 
 lr>li 
 
 clalili', --wallow 
 
 ■ laiird and wliitr-flioUfrt'd waiti'is i 
 
 if tlir •• Sliii." or tl 
 
 'rral'aluar " say I" a 
 
 iriu nf liinuii fac.'d and sfa-lii'>|ialt<'rt'd iiK-n, in 
 woollen ji'isi-ys and Mu.' sailor trouM'is, win. Iiaw Im'.'U kiiorkin- al.out for a 
 fmtni-lit |.asl. in all ssratlins and at all In.urs. lliroii-li tin' surf ami spray 
 „f til.' low.'i- liv.'r or tin' open rstuaiy .' Not for surli -imsts as us is tlio 
 
/ 
 
 US 
 
 77//; 77/JIA 77/ I !//>'. 
 
 vn 
 
 |tiu-in)iH tiiM' Npivii.l ill tlx- 1«»iiu liiill <>\« 
 
 iliM.kiim til'' I'^'i |'li'>l"iiii 
 
 lint 
 
 tor xiirli iLjuc'^tH II"* ii- 
 
 ,1,,,.^ 111.' llnf ..r 111.' Mil.'.' Illlllll.l.' H|,lilll|.\ uiilfi>nli« 
 
 .U W 
 
 f uii 
 
 laxiTii |.r.'i.'«iv Ills "liiiiHv in,,.» ..ii lii- >iiiii|.lii..n. '.'ill .'.lu.H <iii'i-. 
 
 put olV .Jiiiin- in Mat.' till «.' U■.<^r n'.iii.i.'.l il •••. i.l iV.M'k . ....t iiinl 
 
 Hliiliili^' tall liiit "f l'...li.l Sti.'.t i.'.iH'.tal.ilitx. ili.l «ill in.ainvliil.' .'..i.l.i.l 
 
 oum.lvfs vvitli a liuiik -f t liv.nxu.'li Inva.l ai.-l a ^li..' nf .•..1.1 i f. «a>h.'.l 
 
 ,l..\vii Willi K.M«I S..II11.I l.itt.'i. ..II tl..' ii..'Ni..i.MX.' oiini.l.' .I.'.'k..f ll..'li..M|.iti.blc 
 
 niiil iiiifxactiiij; /'"//f/* 
 
 Tlu- v.TV nam.' ..f Civi-nwh-h ■.li..\\s it at ..n..' I" liax.' I'.'.'n aU\a\> a 
 pvni .iM.t iH'Hi.l,. 111.' liv.i-l.ank. «li.i- tin' lolia-.' ..f tli.' Hv.'s tliat .'uN.r 
 tl,.. sL.iK'. .'..iitiaM..! i.l.a^aiitlv with tli.' .^i.'.v inist> niar..li.'> ..f all tl..' 
 SUIT. .tin. linu ti.lal p.-..^ It was tl,....' iil.i.|iiit..ns N..i«. i.i.t. wli" .liri-t.n.'d 
 til.' Iiith.' I.v its pi'm'iit titl.'. as tli.- t.'iiiiiiiatinii ,n. f, m nl; MiHi.i.i.tly 
 l.niv.'s. Vikin-s tlu-niM.'lv.'s dliat is t.. s;,\. nun ..f tli.' xiks ..i iiil.ts- ili.' 
 lir..|H'r Knylif-I' «""rni is Wi.kiii;:. aii.l tli.' w..nl Las iH.tliin- "ii -aitl. i.. 
 <|.. witli kiiij:. ..r s.'a-kinL:. ..r ainlliin.,' ..f iIm' >"rt, iMiir,' ni.r.l.v a f.Min 
 .Ifiiv.'.l fn.ni th.' r....t nl; I.v tli.' a.l.liti..ii ..f tli.' |.atr..ii\i.ii.- ..i |m.>..'^m\.' 
 ttniiinati-.n //-./>. llwv l.'V'l t.. liiii:.'! aiii-.n- th.' .i.'.'k- an.l i.a.h.s ..f ih.' 
 ti.lal stri-aiiis. rs|M'.'iallv in thf n.'i-hl...mh.....l ..»" ri.h tia-lin- t..\Mis Mi.h as 
 .'ally L..I1.I..I1. •whi.h is th.' mart ..»" maiiv iiati..iis." says I',..!.', s..m.' •^.ii.ra- 
 ti.,ns .'aili.r. " ivs..itin-r t.. it hy s.a an.l laii.l.' Th.' maii-.r was -laiil.'.l 
 l.y a ni.'.'.' ..f Kin- Alfivd t.. th.' ALL. \ ..f (ili.nt. in XNhi.h sh,. xvas 
 intm-st.'.l thn.u-h h.r mania-.' with Kail I'.al.lwin ..f nan.l.is, an.l was 
 l.n.lial.ly th.' .aili.'st h.l.l in Kn-lan.l l.y aiix tuni'^ni m..iiast.'i\ Wli.n 
 th.- ali.n |.n..ii.'s w.t.' sii|.i.r.'SM'.l l.y that sf.iit Kn-lishmaii. 1 1. my \ . 
 th.' -i'i'at.'r part ..f t Ir.'.nw i.'li was tiansf.m.l t.. tl..' ( 'ailliusian-. ..f Sh.i..', 
 who h.'l.l th.' iiian..r till th.' I>iss..luti..n. I'-nt ..n a part of th.' lan.l 
 n's,'i'v.'.l l.y th.' Cn-wn f..i' its.lf, iMik.- Ilmiiphn-y "f ( iluii.'.st.r ill..' lai.H.iis 
 IKTsoiia-.' with whom s.. many .linii.'rh'ss folk aiv still supp..s.'.| to Mip) 
 Iniill his palace ..f I'l.'asaiin.'.'. th.' piv.'urs..i' ..f th.' m...h'in stat. ly h..spital. 
 It was h.'. t...., wh.. .•n.'l-.s.'.l Civ.'iiwi.'h Park, ami .r.'.t.'.l th.' wat.li l..w.'i- 
 <.f MiiTtl.'ur ..n th.' hill m.w ...'.'iipi.'.! l.y th.- -ivat <H.s.'i'vat..ry Th.- pala.'.- 
 was a n.yal r.'si.hn.'.' throughout th.' Lan.astiian. Tmh.r, ami Stuart 
 pt'ii.Mls; th.- l.iithplac.' and .'hi.'f ivsi.l.'ii. f M.-nry Vlll., of Maiy, an.l 
 
 ■ 
 
/ 
 
 yUMllX'l l.oMniX. 
 
 lit) 
 
 .f Kli/,iil..fli Til.' '^\n\\ Qii.fii. ill wIioh.' "»»|.iiHi.UM .lavM" Kii«li«li niiil 
 
 Ill's 
 
 iiiiti till' riiiiiM 
 
 latinll nl' licit will I.I Widl- nilnllilll llll|tilV milllT mImim' Wfiyllt 
 
 tlH 
 
 \Miir\ 
 
 'ritiin" KiikIi'I"! "" 
 
 w siii'.'yiTiH liiilt' ii|t|in"»s(t|, Inviil U> wutcli 
 
 Diiiki 
 
 |V,,„. Ilir Mli.U nf ImT pilllMV ill.' -lli|H nf ll.T IVvivil ^rll-llnKS, ll.T Dlllkl'S. 
 
 Imt I'lnl.i.l.iTH. Ii.r Kiili-iKli'*. J"'.l li.r Itnflii.H. «liiiliiiK ImiiI tlirir 
 
 ailvri.l.m.n. m.m.-i-h, • .liHri.vriii.- kiii-s iii.il n.iiMliir. n.w ' ; iiimI ..Itni, ".is 
 llnir l.i.ii.iHv. pii-.M « liv.nui.li." nmix.-.I Imi uvvm Inn.l 1.. lli.ii. ;.^ n luk.-ii 
 „f faivvMll Im In,., tli.ir tihiil .lr|.:.ituiv f-.r ll..- m.kii..«n rn;.Ms ..f «i.ii..im ..r 
 tin- i.v Ih.uii.I .liMim.U -.f lli.. N..ill.-\V.'.t I'lissi,-.-. 
 
 •n,.' rxi^lii.u' h...|.ilMl w!is Im-uii I.v Clmiks II . wl Iv .|.lrl.M| Hi.- 
 
 prm.i.l u.-l «i,..u'. Mini afhP tl..- ^'.vi.l iw.v.il I.Mltl.-..f I.m llu;;m-. (.•.h..,, 
 
 Mima .l.ri.l..l to .•ni.s.il tln^ |.mIi int.. i. siil-iW lM..|.ilal. Wivn |.iv|...iv.l 
 
 ,1... ',l...i.n. ■•ifln Inr .IrMl.. iiinl >nU..>. .'"I"' l'.vl\" '"''I ""' f"-""l'-tiHii 
 .1. ..,.■. TIm' liuspinil VM.s ..ih'Ii.mI ill I7<».-.. .MI..I Ims ivu.aiiinl i'MT slur,- 
 ,„.,hai.. tl..- .•I.i.f iiit.-ial imil ..f nur in.'i.ti.l |.irtiiiv ..f tin- ti.lal TIkiiih.s. 
 
 s.. .•|..s..|v I.m. it iiif.iAsnv.n itvlf ^^itl. .■ill n„r n..- li- ..f l.l.'asai.t hiii.uii.t 
 
 trips ,1,. .-..Ml .I..VM. tin- mv;.t u'lvv liv.r. TImt.' was s .•tl.iii- vrrv lnurlii.,;r 
 
 :,n.l a,.,.i-..,.iial.. in tli- i.l.a -f |nitti,.Lr tl>.. ivtival f..r .lisal.l.'.l srainri, thiH 
 .„, tl... N.iv Lank nf III.- mail, i.autiral tlmiu.iul.faiv of tl... w..il.l, wlu-iv 
 
 ,l,..v , I.MmIm.I.I tl..- :-lal.lv >l.i|.s s.ilin- ..n .'V.-iv .lav t.. tla-ir l.av.-ii I.v 
 
 „,,,,,.,,.|..l l.i.is nf I...I..I..I.; >'• that ..lu .1 iMnll.v l..'lp n-ivtliii^'. lV..ii. 
 
 ,1... ,,•„,„,.•..,...• aiHl ,....ti.al >i.l.' at l.a>t, tl.- .•I.a..;,.- ..f .l.'stiiiatl.m wl.i.h 
 
 has ,..n...l tl..' Imi,.- iMiil-lin,' in." m U-vmI N.ival ('..IK-,-. Tl..- pviisi-iu-rs 
 „..,.. pr..sai.- vunu^U t.. pivf.r tl..- svst.-n. ..f iv.-.ivi.i- m tix.-.l all..wai..-.- at 
 UMir ..vs.. I....M-S. ai.-l .1..- Iai,u.->t ,.ala.-.- in Knulan.l. .-M. I't Win.ls.T. was 
 
 Hnallv .-n.i.ti.-.l Inra,...- a i-a.k .-f ..l.l salts .li.l n..t .an- t.. liv.- in it. Th.-n- 
 is s.,n..-tl.in-.^ aft.-r all in that s.m.s.. ..f in.livi.liiality wl.i.-h thus n.ak.-s rv.-i. 
 
 „... .....linaiv A.i;. ...an.an .-Ihh.m- ,atl..-r his ..wi. littl.- Ul^U'X all t.. I.inis.-lf 
 
 „,,„ ,„,, ,...ss..ssi,.n ..r a n.a;rniti.-.-i.. n.a.in.- r.-^i.h-n.-.-, with an ,iiiiivall..l 
 
 fp.nta--^.' i.n tl..- ti.lal Thain.s. 
 
 -n,., ,..na.-.- an.l h..>pital. th...mh th.-.v l..-h.n- t.. a s..n..-what aws..,n.' 
 ,„, ;„v in.t with..ut a .-.-itain in.p..sin,- ,aan.h-ur ..f th.-ir ..wn. As a 
 ,Lti.-al nnis..,.n. -.f p..st-l!.-iiaissa,i.-.- Kn^lish an-hit.-.-tun-. th.-v poss.-ss a 
 v.-iv sin^nlai- i..t.-n-st in.h-.-.l : tor. l..-^ii.nin;^ with tlu- (^.u-.-n's ll-uso in tlu- 
 
l.'ll 
 
 77/ a; rin.M. in \ Mrs. 
 
 WAV. I'liilt l>\ lii'iLT"' •li'iifs lor lltiiiiitta Mariii. ami ciiiliiiL: \\'\\\\ Wren's 
 faviiilc at till' Miiitli-«»stcni cohut. we have a ni^iilar >iuT('ssiiiii ot' llic works 
 ut' palai'i' arcliitffts. fVcni tlic davs nf iiii;;i> In tlmsc nf Naiiln u>;li. ami even 
 (tiTi-iidi' liath-is!! uf " Atlifiiiaii " Stuart. Tlu' lit-t \'\v\\ ..| lii»|iital ami park 
 i> tlic niu' \vc mt tVuiii ilic iiiiiltllc (if tin- river, liiit tin- ' |iriis|(cils ' lufiu 
 the Mark itxlt" aic of romsc I'ar wider ami iiioi-e ^iiieial. e\teii<liiii: (if it 
 were iver ••lear eiiou;^di to >eei a> fai- as Wiml-oc. Tmiiei's taiiioiis ^l|•awill-_^ 
 ill tlie South KeiisiiiLTtoii. was taken from just lielow tlie l)ase of ilie 
 ( Mweivatorv. Hut let us lie |>erfeetlv frank witli mie aiiotliei ; the present 
 writer has never once lulieltl the inside of the I'ark ! a short eoniiiii.f whieh 
 he lav-- eiitiiilv at the doois of the " Ship " and the " 'riafalirar." Kor how 
 many of us who run down to (Jreeiiwich liy train or steamer ever sei' any 
 more of (Jreeiiwieh town itself — a liustliiiL.' waterside port of more than 
 |(M>.(Hl(l |Kople — than just the iiohle ri\ei-front of the massive hospital, ami 
 the siiowy-wiiite taMe-eloths of those two seductive and liiXiirioiis taverns.' 
 In ohl days the eiti/eiis of London rowel down lei>uiely in their liai'i,'es. or 
 took tlieii' six penny worth in the tilt-ltoals. to (Jieeiiwieh pier, on whole 
 holidavs in the City, admiriiiLr the uieeii lields cdas ' where now diparted .'» 
 ami the luisy shippinj.' as they wiiit ; they dined deeomiisly otV a dish of 
 whiteliait and a Itottle of Spanish wine, and then siiolled alom,' tie- liver- 
 tii'iit Ky the liu^e hospital, or paraded thioiiuh the elm and eliesinul a\eniie-< 
 of (iieeiiw ieli Talk, liut nowaday^, in this hiiii\inL', seiii i \ iiii,i, woiixinir 
 a,i;e, we siiateh the tau'-eiid of an afteiiioun from tin- pres,-.ure of eiiiraLre- 
 nieiits. and run down li\ the last train that will jiist iuini: us in to the 
 jMiltaU of the "Ship' on the \ery stroke of seven. I'.v llie lime we have 
 diHeus>ed the ^'<ml,i's, and salads, and scallops, ,'ind jellies of that endless 
 carte, what leisure i^ there left to admire the iteaiities of N.itiire from the 
 
 ioflV -ile (if |)llke HumiillKV S ti 
 
 W'liv. this i> leallv the tii-.t occasion 
 
 here on t 
 
 he deck of tli<- l'<ijfiii. wh 
 
 II one has ever hail the op|Mii'tiiiiity 
 »'Ven of takiiiLT a irood lonk at the LTieat palace itself, and the pier lieside 
 it, and the Iniii: >hoie fnlk who crowd the street-., and the cpieer ships and 
 
 -torchoM--e- iiv tl 
 
 le walci> i(|'^r. ;iiii| the Ihl: merchantmen sa 
 
 unteiiii'' d 
 
 own 
 
 the mi<l-^tream. and the thousand and one other i|ii;iint si;;hls of a thriviiiLr, 
 I'U-tliiit:, maritime town. i;v what stiaii;.'e steps that little old-fashioned 
 
Suaw Ikiim'. '>lt Uri'diwirli 
 
/ 
 
 XK.\/{/i\'(.' IMXlKiN. 
 
 \'i\ 
 
 watcfsidf tavern, tlif ori^'iiiiil " Ship Inn," wIr-iv l.ontlontTH canu' to cat 
 whitfliait aiiil Houndfis, and drink a disli nf tea. must liavc (lt'Vi-lo|M«l into 
 tlif lonllv iiul.'l tliat now fronts the <irinn- viviT witli its ill-assorted niaj^ni- 
 ticenee ; Wlial a enrious evolution IVoui small ln'^jinninjLjs to oveifed 
 majinitude we liave in that t|"''*''' l'i^t«"'v ! And how mueh wiser our 
 iineestors really were in this matter than we an- ! For what used to lie a 
 pleasant afternoon rivi-r pienie has dej^enerated lit last into a luxurious, 
 wasteful, ostentatious feast, followed l>y an indij^estion all that ni;:ht, and a 
 Mtlenin resolution next n\ornin;.r nev«r to <;o to a tish dinner at (Ireenwich 
 a;,'ain— till the next time one ;^vts an invitation. 
 
 The little creek that joins the Thames Itetweeii (Jreenwieh and Dt'ptford 
 is the llavinsltourne. another proliahle Scandinavian name ; and just lievond 
 its junction with the main rivtr lies the town of Deptford, "the tieep 
 tiord." the termination liein^; employed (as at Wexford, Waterford. and a 
 few other Uritish stations) in its Norse and not in its Kn-,'lish sense. There 
 is not, and never has been, a ford at this spot. .Always a .irreat shippin,-,' 
 place. Deptford is especially iiotieeaMe in tlu' history, not only of the tidal 
 Thames, l.ut of Kn-lish navi.-iation generally, as the ori-inal home (.f the 
 Triinty l5oard. the supreme authority in all matters relating to lightliou.se.s. 
 I.uoys, I.eacoi.s. and the like .piestions jtertaining to the safety and security 
 of our ocean highways. Like most other Knglish institutions— from Parlia- 
 ment to the "Ship" at (Jreenwieh— the Trinity l!..anl has been a slow 
 product of natinal ev.ilution from very small and huml.le heginnings. 
 llenrv \ll.. the patn.n of Sehastian ('al)ot, and tirst founder of our eol.mial 
 empire. t..ok a great personal interest in the development of the Knglish 
 shi|.ping industry, whose vessels passed n.ntinually in front of his own 
 rieasaunce wind..ws at Greenwich I'ahuv. Me w:is miiuled. therefore, to grant 
 to tlu' shipmen and n.i.riners of Vlngland a charter for the foundati.m in 
 the parish church of Deptford of a guild or l.rotherhood of the Holy Trinity 
 anti St. Clement, with authority to make l.ye-laws for the advantage and 
 iiuMvase of Knglish shipping. The lionoural.le I'.rotherhood of the Trinity 
 House continued to h..l<l their meetings in an old hall at Deptford till the 
 rnd of the last century, when a new Trinity House was erected for their 
 usi" on Tower Hill, in the inmie<liate neighlxuirhood of the Dool and the 
 
193 
 
 Tilt: TH'M. •/•//. I i/A>. 
 
 mVMf nw... uf l.oM.lu,, M'SM-lv To thU .ImV III.- KI.I.T M.mI VnUI.-.r I'.lVllMVU 
 
 ..f til.' 'I'riiiitv II. .u>.- |.i.s,i\.- ill tli.ir >t\l.' iiii.l luniiuli.' >..iii.' r.li.> ..f 
 
 til,- MM.'i.iit >ini|.li.-it> ..r Kiiiu ll.'iir.x's uiiil.l. N.-r Iki. Hi.' .'M .•..iiii.M'ti..M 
 
 with It.'j.ttnr.l iiitiivlx .vMx-l <\'ii I'"'"- <■" ''"■ ""•'"' "i'>i'i<''"'> '^^" 
 
 li..H|.ilals ill til.' t..\\ii W'V tl..' l^.iulil ..f .i.r;.>..l |.il..1s iin.l >ii|.. nuiiiiiiitf.l 
 
 .sliip-uiastors. 
 
 Kxc.'iit tor its ton-sts ..f masts aii.l its wat.rsi.l.' tlav..\iis ,if tar and 
 oil, ukhUtii |)i'i.tf..nl is not in itMlf a i.lia>ant .ir an atlra.ti\c s|...t in 
 wliifh to \\u\Xi-v. OiH-f u|i..n a tinif (a l.m- tiiiu' a-... ..iic woiil.l >av to 
 l.H.k at it— y.'t no L.npT ivall.v than tli.- I..';:innin- ..f tliis .•.nlnni a raiv 
 wil.l-ll-.w.T -ivw aiii..n- tli.' niai>li.v iMv.in.-t> ..f tli.' Kav.'n-lM.ui ii.'. >till 
 known t.. iH.taiiiMs in it> f.w ivniainiii': Knuli^li liaiints a> tli.' h.i.lloi.l 
 j.ink. Tli.iv ar.' id lK'pttor.l pinks at D.-j.tloi.l now. ami in.|niri.> al.oiit 
 tlu-ni. a.l.livsM'.l t.. nativ.s of tliat .li>nial slnni. Iiavi' l..'.'n kn..wn to l..- 
 niisiiitiTi.r.t.'.l a> nfcnin,:: in all |.r..l.al.ilit_\ to >oni.' Iani..ii> pii/.'-li-liLr. 
 "Tlif Dfi.tfor.l rink, sir.' N.-v.'r '.•.•r.l t.'U of ini ; l.iit lik.' .■n..ii-li li.''> 
 iK'kiH.wii at th.' •Tliiv.' .I.illv Tars' ..r tli.' ' S.anian's I'air ll.n.ii."' Kv.rv- 
 tliinLT Mt Ih'pttor.l. in. 1. r.l. lias • -utV.iv.l a >.a .-lianL'.', " n..l ol tli.' Iiappiist. 
 Til." slii.iv lia> l«.'.n lin.-tl with iiiarin.' Ntorth..ii>.s an. I p.tty wharv.s; th.' 
 |)...-kvar.l ha- l..vn .'oin.'it.'.l into a K.-ivi-ii t'attl.' Maik.'t ; th.- -r..iiii.U 
 of Sayf'> Court, .lolin Kv.'lyn- riv.'rsi.l.- hoiii.-. wh.'iv I'.'t.r ..f Un>sia .lr..\.' 
 hi> \\li.M'll.air..w throuu'h the hi-.lir.'s that tli.- author ..f Sy Iva lia.l 
 jilantnl an. I tiiniiii.'.l with -uch t.-n.i.'r .•ai.--tli.- un.un.ls ..f Sa\.''> 
 Court liavf fall.'ii into w..rsc han.ls than .v.n th.- L'r.-at un\\a>hi.l Mus...- 
 viti'"s. f..r. afti'i- lia\iii.Lr tiist liffii tiirn.Ml int.. a vi.'tuallin- }:iv>\. th.\ liavf 
 at la-t .I.-.'.ii.I.mI to l>f th.- -it.' ..f th.' i.aii>h woiklioU'-.' '•To what l.aM- 
 II-.-. :' .Mo.l.'iii D.'i.ttoi-.l is as i:iiiiiy. ulooiny, ami .livary ,i |.la.'.- a- 
 you \v..ul.l ui-h to io..k at; aini \.t. with a lilll.' ha/..' aii.l a :;oo.l iiia.-'> of 
 nia>t> ill til.' foi.'uroun.l. it will h-'k a.- iK-autifiil h.iv fr..iii ( u-.'.nwi.h. 
 wh.'ii oil.'.' a il.'ft l.rii>h ha- i..',L.Miii to liniii it for .>iir . 1.1. '.tali. m. a> th.- 
 Crand Canal it-.if ..f a nii-ty .■v.-nini:. wlifii th.' ha/.' fr.iin th.- lat:.ion is 
 just h.'unimiii,:: t.. ri-.' os.r th.' Hats .tf Miiiaiio, aii.l to t.m.' with its 
 nii-tv '^'l.iiv th.- s..rnl sl.ni.' fa<,'a.l.'s of that ;_n'.'at I'urviii.i: liii.' .>f paia.'fs aii.l 
 landing: -places. 
 
/ 
 
 .\7;.i/.7.V'; LDShoy. 
 
 l',':i 
 
 TlitTc is nftfii soiiictliiii;,' (nil.v Vi'iictiaii, imlctMl, Mlioiit tin- jispfi-t of tlif 
 riviT iifiir Lnii.lnii nil ii calm siiiiiiik r iiinlit. After all, l.ar^-vs and ships are 
 niiicli aiiki- tin- wlinli- wuiM nvtT ; tin' siiii is (lie same on tlif Tliaiiu's as oil 
 the Ailriatii-; ami if nm- had only a few latcfii sails in tln' foiv;;inuii(l. it 
 would often lie dillieiilt to say whether a jiartieMlar sketeh had l>eeii studied 
 at |)ei>lford or on tin- way to the l-ido. dust lonk at the lieautifiil tail-pieco 
 to this present ehapter, for example, and then say lioiiestlv wiiether you eoiild 
 have found out iiy your unaided iiitelli.yfiiee near wiiieh of the two it was 
 painted— Ity the Kiva at N'eiiiee, or l»y the Ish- of l)o,L,rs. 
 
 
 iiii: i.-i.i. I'K uiH.s. 
 
y\^ .t.,., 
 
 i.i.iiiii '•I tiii^. 
 
 ( iiAl'iKi; \i 
 
 pi l.ciNlHiN i:i;iim;K 
 IMKIInrsK |;K.\<'II r.iiii.-. ili.' \\«;ii\ litil.' /''/////- nn \\> 
 
 HIIs:i\<Hir\ Imini.111 tVnlll hr|iltiinl ilnrks.llil ilM>\\ ;iliilllili>||i-il» 
 nil t'l llu' ViTV clltrilllif lit' tllr I'lii'U lIlilMx'hr-. W i' all' lliiNV 
 
 fail l\ witliiii tlir u:i ip"! ill'' ai'tiial, iliiilriiiaMr. iikhIi rii 1. 1 nit lull. 
 
 ( »ii mil rii^lil lii'> till' Uli- nt \^<>j:-. it^ liilln r liaiik rnii^i^liiii.' i<f 
 Milhvall. whu.r \iV\ iiaiiir. lik-' tlii.-.'i'f NVai.|.iii- Wall, Itutlni liillir Wall, ami 
 IJ.'riiinii.l-rv Wall, a litllr fiiitln r ii|i tlir liv. r. ti-titii-> in it- mi-iii in tin- fa-v 
 ma.lwav fmiiiril l'\ ill'' l'\<' tuji nf tlir ir^l I'liiiiiiv: <iiiliaiikiii<iit. On mir lil'l 
 
 slrrtrlio thf liiu Jialili lit' iiilaii 1 uii'iiinl hmt uliirji tlir iiilti i:ifiiii; ami 
 
 nmvfr'^iiiu' lin*'^ nf tln' Sniitli Liimlmi. Ka>t l.iiiiilnii. Smitli Ka^tnii. ami 
 r«l-iLrlitiiii ami Siiutli Cnast railwav-. i-ni^-^ ami i('crii>» mir aimllni i:i a |tiiiiit 
 nia/f nf imxtriralili' ciiiifii^inii, tlirmiLili u liirli tin' |>iitiiiiL: iii,uim-«. raiiiiil umt 
 (iiir aimtln r's Inail- nil ImiL' Iniik \iailm-t-". mtih |iiiintnalls ami imtVcctiially 
 tiltiii"' at tai'h ntlnT in a \a'.:Ui' fmliav mir tn iiiakr tun |i.(rallrl planes 
 
 ,,,,.,.( ;,t ;, (lililiitr |inillt i-nll-li|iT;ilil\ slmlt nf illlillitS. .\ liltir tllltlliT nil, 
 till' lu-ml nf l;iml liilUiill tlir I'linl Mini l.inirlinll-r Itraill ll.ls lit'rii 
 .•llnin>t rlitirriy tl Inl tn t'lirill thr ( 'nllllm'lvia 1 hni-k-^, uilh ihrir rmllrvs 
 
 lia^in-' ami laiiiitiratinn-. ami tlir liiu tiinliri-|inniU nf tlir (imml Smir\ 
 
 Ivill'^f just lirlliml tlirlii. It i- a >tralli:r LllilllV laml. tlli^^ all-lr nf r\r;i\ ,itri| 
 InW-lrSrl >nil >l Irl.liilli; aWaV IVnlll lint llililit lir In |)r|ill'nnl; a |;t||i| , ,f 
 
J 
 
 Tit i,iiMn>.\ isitiimi:. 
 
 \r> 
 
 slt.ivl.i.i.cs. jiikI s\viii;r l»iiil;ri's, aiiil Jnttiii;; |»ii'i-M, nn<l nillwny wImrvcH. niitl 
 tlrHoliitf imltiiilt |»itrlics, Icickfil ii|> ill cvt'iv |»!irt l»v tin- fori-st nf imists tliiit 
 i'hcs hijili iiiln tin- sk.v likf n vtiitiildf wtinillaiMl fVniu llic Ion;.' siiccfssiuii of 
 iiitcrniiiiiiiuiiifatiii^' |mhi|s ami liasins. Wliutvci- wislics (u )in\\<x.\' at oiin- tin' 
 illi.s|M ak.ililf M|iialuf ami tin- iiuiimllfss wealth nf I.dikIoii raiilint ilii Itt'tttT 
 than walk at hiic stivlih IVniii the I'.riil^'c, thioii^h the laiifs ami alh-ys t.f 
 lU'rim.mlsrv, ami ruiiml tin- ^inlliii^' ciirvr uf Itnth.Tliitht' Stifft and Trinity 
 Sunt (which Imiv niii luiiml in a Inn:^- arch parallel with the river's liemi) 
 tu the shells ami liasins uf the i-reat t'nrei>;n live meat market at |)e|ttttir»| 
 N'ictuallim; N'anl. 
 
 Ilutherhithe itself ahnri^^iiially kmiwii to ninst 4if' ns, no tlmilit, merely 
 l)V the fact mr. rather, lictiuii) that Leinnel (inlliver. snr^euii, nnce lived thei« — 
 
 full I in eaiU Knulish limes niie n^ the hithes or landiii^iiilaces that rose 
 
 like half drowned eyots fiom the Hooded morass of the soiitheiii liaiik. A 
 
 little stream, the ISother, e tlosved down into the Thames on the very 
 
 lionler of Kent and Snrrcy, a namesake of that other Sussex Ifolher which 
 runs |ia>t MotheisliiidjLic { /•■ir<,sti-ulli< IJoliertshrid^'e) to join the sea throuy;li 
 the verv similar tidal Hats of Itomiiey Marshes. At either extremity Kent 
 is severed from the ailjoininn- counties l.y a Itother hrook. The hitlie that 
 ju-l lifted its h.ad alio\e the surioumliii.L.' lagoon was called, /'"r// ,!,■ i,ni„iii<\ 
 Itoihcrhithe ; jusi as Laml.cth was once Laml>-hithe or l.oam-liithe. 
 Stepney was Slelien hithe, and .'veii Kiith was .Kit hit h.-. A mere lift of 
 muddv i>lel even ill the old days, it has Immmi turned hy modern commerce 
 into a narrow strip of dirty land, strelchin.u: in h'li.u: l<'\v liiif l.cfwfeii the 
 serried masts of the Thames on the 'me han*l. and th.' serried masts of the 
 docks on ihi- other. 
 
 The C.mmcivi.-d Docks (as ihoiiuh any other docks were stitimental or 
 pn.f.-ssinnal or scientific !) were specially constructed in the lirst instance for 
 the (irccnlaiid trade, hut arc now mainly resorted to l.y northern timi.er 
 vessels. St;icks of liml.er stretch as far as the eye c.-in reach ; the wlu.le- 
 .sonie Muell of d.'al and pine p<.rfum.'s the air and recalls the forests of 
 Norwav and Canada. I'.y a curious coincidence, too, these head(|uarters of 
 northern trade hav.- an old traditional connection with the Scandinavian folk, 
 for it is sai.l that the Commercial Do.-ks themselv.-s ;iiv the lu-innin.u' of a 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 
 ,,,; ; : rui: 
 
 Tiini. 
 
 ■/■// 1 I//X 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 t 1 1 < <.' ..• < 1... 1 1 
 
 t'lii' lii<4 
 
 lllllx xllilC. ll 
 
 (iiiiii: 
 
 hi. 1 
 
 liirk.'iili 
 
 nt' 
 
 
 ,,.„, ,,,,,„„,,| i„ ,|„. nsrv in ul.sinwt lii. |uti,\N:.> u|. Mivnin lu l..n..lMH, As 
 w.. -,-t l.iu'lwi- up tiM- .iN.r. 111.' li.r-. ..f vr.Mls in.i.i.M. in .ir,.!!. f-.n. nn.l 
 ,.v..u six !,l.iv;u.l -liiiinu' tl.r i..n.k..M l...tl, .i-lr^. !.i..l a.v..M.|..nir.l I.n ll,- 
 atton.hul tl.Tt nf l.a.-v. an.! hmmII .raft Tl.r^.- ti.,. nairnvN li,.. .Iia.m. I in 
 
 ,1... mi.l.ll.- to V..1V f.w >a..l. in vsi.ltl.. an.l tl,.. la. f «al.r lln.s l.ll is 
 
 „f,ri, l.arkr.l full of .Iriftin- naft. .lun.l. l.a.u... tn, l.oat>. fann...>' l.aiur^ 
 stark.Ml with mountains of hay, an.l n..is> li-ht.Ms. :.|| ;;..in- tip st.vain 
 t..-,.th.T l.n.a.Ui.h' on, «ith h.a.ls an.l tails j.-stlini; .a.h oth.r in .,uaint 
 n.nfusi.M,. Tin- slramn-s sh..v.. thr.M.^h jusi as th.'V nn-hl thn.uuh pa.k i.v. 
 ,,n.l now an.l tluM. -.'t \n..Iu.'.I an.l has.- to .l.ift InOph-ssly ^^ith tin- 
 park. It is a «on.l.rful si'Jit to s.v. an.l ..n.' w.ll worthy ..f a .nnnin- 
 
 JH'lU'il. 
 
 Wappiti^'. vvhi.'h li.-s ..n our riuht as nn.^ win.l ..ur vsay up tl,...uj. tlu- 
 or..w.l...| stivani n.un.l ("u.-k.-Ms IV.int. is tlw \.r\ liu.l. au.l .vntiv ..f th.. 
 Kn-lish saih.r int.ivst. lloun.l Wappin- nhl St.V.rs all th.^ ...man.-.' ..f th.it 
 wntin.rntal .n.'l...lran.ati.- Uiitish tar uho n.\.r I'Mlly .Aist.'.l anvsNl..'... has 
 
 l.y o.nnn..n ronsmt h.-.n ahsav, >ui s..l to whirl an.l ..My Th.^ hla.k- 
 
 ,.yo.l Susans ..f n.n.an.v. an.l th.' Wappin- Sih'. ..f s..l..r i.alil.v, h.iv tin.l 
 a l.u-al hal.itati..n an.l a nan..-. N..t that tli.y a..- a.t.ially 'ai.) ....tlii..-s" ; 
 
 far f.-..n. it: th.- >ail..|-s las> ..f st.-.i. p.-.-sai.- fa.-t is a .to.lal.i.-. >..,„. uhal 
 
 f.iU-fa.-.-.l 1..m1.\. wI...^.- l..-a..ty, as M.'. W. S (iiliM.-| uur.r.k.. i..-.t.-i..l ..f l..i.i- 
 n..-.vly skin-.l.-.-i., " li.- i» If'^'''- ■'" '"''■ '"""•-" '''''•" ^^-'I'l''"- "'"-' '""•" 
 hav.- I..-.-., a., isla.i.l. lik.- >-. ...a..y ..th.-.' plar.-> i.i tin- l.o.i.h.i. .■lll..^ial ti;..-!. 
 
 is c-.tai... n..t ..nly f...... th.- .xist.-i f th.- .I.p.vs.iu.i li.-hi.i.l it. i.. whi.h 
 
 till- L.....I...I l).K-ks n..w sta.i.l, l..it als.. f.'.-.i. th.- fa.-t that .lu.i.i- th.- .x.-aNa 
 
 ti..ns f..i- th.- St, Katl..-.i...-s l>.M-ks th.- s\...k. ...... .In- out th.- .-...I.- h..lls ..f 
 
 a.ici.-nt ships f...... th.- l.u.i.-.l ni.i.l, sh,.\vi..- that a l..a...-l. ...• l.a.-kuat.-.- ..f tli.- 
 
 Tl.aim-s .....-.- la.i in th.- .va.' ..f Wappi.ii: f...... T-.w.-. Hill t.. Slia.lu.ll 
 
 IJasin. In.l.-.-il. • Wappi.iLr T..u.i" its.lf is l.iit a na....u sliip --f half 
 
 a.titi.-ial la.i.l. th.- .itniost an-a ..f this |..w .-y-.t. iv.-lai.ii.-.l \>\ tl..- It. una.. 
 .•n.l.a.ik..i.-..t ..f Waj-pin- Wall fnuii th.- ILmkIs aixl hi-h ti.l.-s ..f th.- 'I'hain.-s 
 
 i.l-'IIO.I. 
 
/ 
 
 7v> LDMn'S itiiiimt:. 
 
 M 
 
 'I'lif I'm. I lit till' |ii«>rn» tliiv niliiiiilv |irfst'iil.s llif iiin^f t\t I iioidimirv 
 imiHH III" li\iii- ninl iim 'iiy;. or inert iiinl Miiir<l >lii|t|tiiiy: h. In' miii in any 
 liiiiiiiiui ul' ill.' wliolf wuilil •• Till- triivfiltr liuiinii ii|i Ntniini !•• I.onilnn I'nr 
 thr lii^l linn. Mi\s tin- j.'iiiilf-lMH>k, '•ciiiinnt liiil t<> lie inipii-ssril liv llic 
 Nin;iiiliir niii;4iiifi(fiitf of the -^niir iliiit iiuw u|Mns ii|i liclnif liini." Iinlrctl 
 In- cannot. So ;;rnit iin r\|iiiiiM' of I'o^j iind vi>m-Is can never Iteloie have 
 
 l.iini.ll \.\s\ KMIIIUIK.I.ll. 
 
 met Ilis ioti.iiiNlieM ua/i' ; m> iniicli lliielx Mnnlxe. Midi >..liii tawiiv iiii^t. ^^lcll 
 folcrin.Lr piles of niiuiiie >tores. siidi .imIIos liiveriis iiml >liips ami stoiv- 
 lHMi>e>, >iieli ci:iiie> iiml iiiMsts :iml winches ami fellies, .Mich noisy tii.ns iiiai 
 solemn steamers ami hel|ile>s l.ai-vs aial calm self-possessed river-craft, such 
 -rime and luisile and din and stenches, can never liefore have a.ssailed him 
 at one time l«\ all the M'Veral \ illiieiaMe portals of his seven si'iist's. Masts, 
 masts, masts! funnels, fnniiels, fnimels : as far a> e\i' can .see throu-h that 
 .semi-transparent mixture thev call the air in London, over that .liliitc sewa-e 
 thev call the ri\er iiothin-' hut ships in e\er\ possil.h' varietv, toilin<r and 
 
/ 
 
 1 •,'.•< 
 
 Tilt: runt, rinuns. 
 
 moiling' in l.li.l-Htm.lH «i«l. tl"«i<'U li-l.-, ol iv.l iM..n..x:,l.|,- il. ...ilita.v 
 
 ..nl.. '"ann.nu ll.- -|n:uv ..,'""•'•'""-" ^••'^' l"'"""""^' "'' "''" ^* ''■'■*'"' 
 
 ,,.i,..,.,, of Knu'li'l. .ivili^ali-.n. thr Ti.lal Tl.an.. , H.n', i...!...!. i^ .11 .1-. 
 
 i. ,n..,i ,.i.tinv.MU.' an.l .liMin.ti>r i -in....:.'. ...nli.l, ..Hivanlilr WW- 
 
 Not Nil.'. ll..«ii.v' l«»-« >-"""■"•■ ''"'I''- "'"' I"'"'*'""' ^'""""'"- ^^"'' '"'-'" 
 
 MiiiK.l nail. .Inrpi"';.' ■*'"^^l> ''"«" ''^ '"'•> '"'^'•■' '•"■•""• """ "'"'• '""■'• 
 ^Mhlinu l.N 11'" l".'nn„ m tl.r Vati.an t.. il.r Imp' .aMlr.l ^\<\i of San 
 
 Ai.;irlo; not S.in.', lumiiii;; IkMw.tu uliil.' -loiir .|"">^- ''> '''•' ''"'''" "'" 
 
 Num. ham.-, Il.r l..l;.'r .tiai;:ht livr.-f.ou. of llio l.o.niv. o, tin- uiM-.l .Ion... 
 
 „f ,)„. .,.:,u.l> Inxali.l...; hut Knjili.l. Tl.an..- I.in.vlf. u..>.-l .•"• •Jo..n,i.>t 
 
 ,.,• ,,;„,I.1n riv.o. I'oiiu.U.I l.> ;:ninN \Va|.|.in- to iIm' no.il. an-l -rimy 
 
 Untlnil.itli.' to tlir Houth, an.l luaiin- on l.i^ I'"!'""! '"-""• '" '>"Mri.-al.l.. 
 
 n.nf..M..n. tl... >l.il>H U.al .am I'.iilain an.l all la r f..rlnn... Koi l,.i. \n.- 
 
 »,,■ intla\.r> Hij:li Sliv.t ..f tli.' -.a. niakin- ..n. was n|. lli-' ..nlial io,„|- 
 
 w;.\. Il.ax.n onl> kn-.w^- li.'vx. an-l i....kin- in a\M- an.l «..n.l.i at lli. li.-iH 
 
 uiM.n li.i> ..f .■..mparl >l.i|.|'i"-' ' ''I '" '"''•'•^^ '''"'^ "" '"'"' ^'"''' '*" 
 
 any man «ant> t-. mt at ..!..• -lan.v what ..ur Knuli>l. -i^ iliMHi-.n i. ..ally 
 iik... l.t I. in. .Ii..|. .I..wn tl... ii\.i at tin' tnrn ..f ll.. ti-l"'. .'i.'l -'a/., at tl..' 
 Hfvthin- ma-^ ..f -.afaiin- liumanit.v ll.al liv- an-l mo\.-^ an.l ha^ its 
 hrin- in tl... .lank ta.iA at >|.l..iv "f tl."' ^"^^"' ''""l "^l Wappin;; <»1.1 
 
 Staif.-. 
 
 W,. rn.Hs Thaim-^ T.mn.l. an.l |.a- Clnnv tianl.n I'i... «l..i.' I'o 
 cluTi-ics n..Nv '^v»sy nImMv I-. ll..' nak..l -■>.■ On ..m l.ft Tn- T... n.omU.v. 
 
 ,.l;,.Hsir Ii..i f .•l...l.ia an.l U\rv. «l..iv tl... m.i.i. .l.l-at.-.l • •.■.nn-. ' of ll.--' 
 
 maii-..atin.i: l.a.l.iia ii^.mI ..n.v t-. !..• fmitfnl an.l nmlti|.l>. an.l .. pl.^.i^l. ll..' 
 raitl.. nn.l..M-k...l l.y ><i.l. iinwai lantal.l.' inlrn>i..n> on ll..ir liL.ity -.f a-ti-.n 
 as main-.l.aina^'.. vs...ks ... ^anita.y |..-.ra..ti..n- Tl.in-> a.v L.tfr ....w. 
 
 ,„.upl.- ^ay. an.l I'io.oU l..-li.v ; l.nt. .v.i. s... l!.M-i....n.l-.> .-an l.a..ll.\ 'lain. 
 
 tn l.r an .r.L'il'l.' family r.->i'l.i..v f-.r a y...in- ."iil'l"' "'""" '" '"■'"> '' '^ 
 il uifiv n.st of all tl... iinsavo.iiy ami iinu l...l.'-om.. tia.l.s raiii..! .... in 
 
 Lomlon . a l.a.int ..f tanm-.s. K|„..-,..ak.-.s, mat.-l. ...an..fa.t...v.x an.l l.atl..r 
 
 (Ivf.sseis, wl... 1...UI tla- nWisv ..f I lair n..i>......' l.an.li.n.fls int.. tl,.' >l.all..\v 
 
 mml.ly \vat..-n,n.-s.> wl.i.-l. f\.iyvvl..i.- int..MM-l ...■ .....l.ili.- il> na.n.w all.-ys. 
 
 Tin- ti.lal ov»Ttl..w of tla- Tl.an.fs l|.....ls iIk^.- ..•.kin- >tivum.s ami i-ulv.rts 
 
/ 
 
 The rppcr Pun 
 
■A_ 
 
/ 
 
 TO LOM)lK\ UllUKiE. 
 
 130 
 
 .„ ,„>,..■.•.• in. n r— •"' »•"'■'■■■ v'^ 7' 7 : 
 
 „„.i,. .f..l ,«■..■.,„„. (.. M„. na.iv,. ,auk,u.s „f .he .n,.,!.! lan.s. U ,« 
 
 ,„„■„.„, ,. k» ., .i.i- iv»„.,i„K ....»» ..I- -.1-".' i...-'>- "":' ''^■"-'>- 
 
 „„„„„,. s,, „. ,,.n». .I..' .-1 ..n.iu,„ ..I- .l..'t fan,,,,,.,- .,a„». 
 
 iiKK INK TdWKIl. 
 
 . . • • r.M.nnun.ls L'. IW-onuuiuls Ky, or island ; the 
 
 ^•"" r:::,"; ■.,•,.:. .„..,. ^ — >> '•■-";»" -""■'■■ 
 
 '"="■"''> '>"* , ,. ,. tlu. riviM) huilt himself iVK^'s since 
 
 ''-;"''?:;:;;;::; :;o... :,■,.,.>,.. ..,...,«.„ 
 
 „„„, ,„„, ua„.a .•,„i,s --;''' 7'; '■'■';•;,;, J 7,,..;, „.. 
 
 ■■'> '■■'■' -^"^ r:;.,::;i-"t,= ..„ 
 
 :;;: r :::;:■::::;; ;:.- ^.>.- "> -'-"^ 
 
inn 
 
 run rin.\i. iu.\Mi:s. 
 
 .,, K,.,,M, ,..nnina,ion ... an i>l- ..f vvl-l- --' - tlw .lin.innti^.■V nH-n 
 
 v,.l,.:ui...l an.l .•..m.pt..! int Tin.. I-.m.I,. IV.nn.n.U.v. ..• l.n. .1^.. .n 
 
 „,„,,.,.,,.„ .,i>,n.. Clu.!... on.v (Wl...tl... .nn..li.l.: |;.„..r>... ..- 
 
 ..t r..t.r> Kv: au.l Tl.o.n K>-..r. m> i. i> of,.,...- .•.11..1, vvitl. m.v.I1.>s 
 ,,,„,„,,■ ,„,.,, TlH.n...v l>lnn.l-.lw >i... nf W.^nm.,,,- ALl.... .!...>.• ..Hn. 
 
 „.> n... UMU-,....! its ,.huv. This -.., .■>....- M.'. 1-- ''■-'•"■ -'-•-- 
 
 ,,.,.l..M..l 1. :n. :n-.M nf ,1.- Tl........ ,..., of .ho- h-.l i^ -ou o....,.,...-! hv 
 
 tlio ..niaiiu'iital \Mit.r in St. .laiM.-> I'ailx. 
 
 N.,rthwar.l. a.ain. li- .h- S, Kathorin,-. l>o.k. th. n.os, p-nvlv ar„linal 
 „,. ^,„ ,,,, ,,,„.i.,n .h,..k>. tonn...l hv .N.-avatin, ih. Mt. of ,!..■ oM S,. 
 Kath.n,H-. Pn..n. an-l .artin. away ,!..• .-il ..- till u,. th. hollo, ot th. 
 W..>,nm.>t,.r anu of th. us.r n. ar .ha, i> now |:..|.nn.. S.nanv S-hh.n. 
 1... ,1... han.i of n.an p.o.lu.v.l n.oiv l-rofoun.! rlianv'.- if tin- natural a.,,.--, 
 ..f,..„v >t,v,.-h of lan.i. in.hv.l. than ha- h...n th. .■;.>,• in th- .hi- alhisial 
 l..v.u' of th. ..'.vat.r l.o„.h.n H-.v. an ..ul.ankn.-nt ha. >hn, o.„ tlw ti-ial 
 ^^,.,•; th.Mv. a -inin. ha> .l.ainr.l -o,u- hran-hin^ l.a.k.at-r ; von-hr. a^ain. 
 :, 1... Nalh.v ha- iM.n raiM,! U thr .l-,»M,ion of -..il .vn.ov-.l hv tunn-Uinu^ 
 .„• rvavatinL' .I-., h-.v Th. rhan^r- .hi-h .-■ ou.-h.- liavr >r.n takin- 
 ,,1,,, i„ ,1... Vi..toria Kn.l.ank.M.nt. th. lloil.o.n Via-hnt. th- ho.k>. an,l th.- 
 ,„,,v ,,nt> of W.MnmiM.r. a.v o„lv th- la-t .•ha,.t-,. it. a -nat -ontinuons 
 ,„,„,_. l...._,un Kv (-1, or Itou.an. an.l n-s-r .-a-ini: np ,o nur ou,. tin,-. 
 
 ul,..,-hv ,h- --n-ial hx-1 of th- -ntii- ta-troi-litan ana l,a> l—n ^la-inallv 
 ,,,i>-.l an,l -,,uali>-.l. throu;,!. th- -o.nl.in-l a-tiou of natural -au>- an.l 
 
 artiti.-ial .n'^in.-rinLr .ork>. 
 
 <„, ..ur .i-ht th.. .hit., tun...- of th.. To....- .'al. th.- half a.tithial .no...nl 
 ,l.;.t ,i-..> hohUy ahov- th.. to,v-t ..f .ua>t>. a.,.l fo.iu- th.- fu.th.-t ..ut,...>t 
 ..f th.. .1.V ian.'l that i-.-j.-'t..! -f -hi i.'to th.- >hallow .-si-a..-.- of th.. thlal 
 ,„,,, ,„,„....i l.> th.. tlM.^.i.,:: ha.k ..f ,1... wat-.-> ..f th.. Tha.u.- a.i.l l.a. 
 \V.- has., now ...a.-h.-.l tl,.. v-v t.u..-, an.l ..lo-t ...iuh.al l...n.h.n ..fall, th.- 
 (Vlti.. 'hn. a.i.l Roman .itv that >t .vt.-h.-l tV...u thi- p.-int to th.. .lil,. ..f 
 
 Lu.l^'at... ami \\h.».. th....' hit:h.>t i...int> a..- 
 
 vi>il>l«. ..N.ii .lo. tVoiu tin- 
 
 ,,„..,.i.l.., .•.■ow,u..l l.v th.- th.v.- la...l.ua.k> -.f th.. To...-, th.- C.-.-nlMll 
 (•!,„n.h..s. a...l th.. -h.tn.. of St l'a..r>. Th....,^h th-. .i-.- of th.- </„. i.- hanlly 
 „..,i....,.l,l.. fr.„u an> ..th.-.' plaa- (.^av.. Inau th.- .l...n.. of Pauf- itM-lfi. it 
 
/ 
 
 TO f.nM)(>y imi/tdi'. 
 
 m 
 
 .,,„ still In. ...... .listi....tly f.o,.. tl.0 .l....k of a Tl.a,..rs Htea.n.r ; tl.o l.-^l- 
 
 .,,„„.., liHi,.. i,s..ir ...t Tow.... Hill fro... ti... Wappinj; levels, c..MUi..ui,.^' past 
 
 tl... ol.lit,..at...l ,..!. of tl... W.-.m>.ook to St. I'aurs. a...l .Ivi..^ .low,, a,.,... at 
 „,., ,.„.., .,,. ,„.l...t.. Hill, wl...,v tl... ,..m„„..,..-.....c...t of tl.o ^M-eat st.me ...„- 
 
 ,.nk,n. ... „.a,ks .1... ..M all,.vial .•,.a..l...s ..f tl... St.a.,.l a.,.l th. Flc.t River. 
 
 Tl.is is tl... ..,i;.i..al I..,..lo.. that tl... t.a.l.. ..f Tl.a.....s .v.niM ; a„.l th.s 
 
 i. ,1... ..,.,....-...ost .•..a..l, ..f tl... ..avij,al.lc Tl.a,..c.s wl.i..l. c.-catcl .t. h. 
 
 ,.,.,., .,,• us li.. tl... ...assiv.. ,.i...s a,..l livl„K ...ovi..^ st.-c.a,,. ..f L..n.lon 
 
 ,.,;,,.,. . ,„., ,t Lo.,.lo„ nrUlgo the i.ilg,i,.,ago of tl.o /'#. will L. «^n.ly 
 
 ..... 
 
 h..l. 
 
 NV.. ..n.is.. .... sL.wlv past tl... '• T..wo.s ..f .lulios. L..„.l....-s lasti,,^^ 
 
 .,,„....•• 0.f .■..,„... .1...V have, .vallv ,.o ,..o,r t.. .h. with Caius .h.lh.s (Vsa,- 
 
 t,...,„ with th.. ,..a„ i„ tho nV a...l al.....ast ..f th. Cust...n House, a„.l 
 
 .,,..„. as ..„• as tl... ...h>..ous ,ivo.-f.....t ..f Hsl.y Uilli..^s,at... S.>„,eh...ly wl,.. 
 
 ,v.,s^.,..... l..av.. ....o,.Kl. t.. taste a ...o,.thf,.l ..f Tl.a,..es wate.- at this ,....,.t 
 
 .;.viv...l 1..... ........h to state that it was h.aekish, a...l the tn.th has l.ee,. 
 
 .,.,,.,,,„., ,ve,- si...... .... that t,.a.r,thn.al a,.th...ity without fu.tl.e,- i.e.s..,.al 
 
 i„.,„i,, 1.V late,. a,nvals. To the south lies Southwa.k. wh.>se v..,.y „an,e ot 
 „,, South \V..,k ..,• ..,.,i.a..k,..e.,t l.ea.s wit,.ess t.. its ...i^i,. tV..,.. the R.m.a,, 
 ,„,,..,„... of tl... ti.lal la,,....,.. A ll..u.a.. l..i.lj;v .h.ul.tless n„.,.eete.l th,s 
 
 southen, s,.l.,..l. with Lo...h... t..w,. ; au.l iu taki,.,, u,. the ..1.1 hu^hsh 
 ,,,i.l... a s...i..s of U.....a,. .•oh.s w...e to,....l u,..le,„eatl.. .....j^i.., tV..,.. a ve.y 
 
 ,.,,,v .lat.. .h.w.. to the ,ei,,. ..f H.......ius. Vu.u that .lay to th.s so.ae 
 
 ,;,.,,. .., ..„„... has l....e s,.a,.,....l the Thau.es f...... ti...e t.. tiu.e. au.l .•l.e..k...l 
 
 n/,u,-,h...- ,..o,.vss ...• ....ea..-,..i... vessels ..,. its st.va.... S..,uet„....s 
 
 „,.„.,,,s,u..lv ......u,..l....v.l with .,,.ai..t ..l.l-tasl.i.......l h..uses. th.... .-lea.v.l au.l 
 
 ',,,„,,, ,..,.,.,..,. .li,.u.,.sio,.s, tiually .•e....,.st.„..te.l ..f soli.l 1 >a,t,...,.u. pa,..te. 
 
 ,.,.„. „, ,,,,he,v.l s.„..,..it of H..y 'I'...., it has l.a..e,l the way t.. ..eeau- 
 
 .,„,. V..SS..1S with .ts ,.e.p..tual ....ti..e of -No Th..n.u,hta.e ^ .u.p.-.ute.l 
 
 ;.iUv u,.o,. its v...-y ,.i...s. The little /'-#. coul.l easily u.ake h..." 
 ,,;. ,.st th.. a.-.i.i..ial l.a.ne.-. to he s,..v. hut I.e.- task is well ti,.,sh...l. 
 ,,^,^ ^^...,^ i, .,o,.... a,..l as she .......es to .est l.y I.....I0,. IWhl^e Pi..,-, we 
 
 ,,.„> asho.v. tl..ve I..0W.. sail...- tolk. t.> eha..,e ..„,- hahiliu.euts t..,- t^h.' 
 ,.;,i..a.v .Less ..f the ..iueteeuth-e.-.t.uy Ku.lishu.au. au.l .Hue ..u .hy 
 
 I 
 
i;i-. 
 
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