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WWlllJWi MjIH II—'-

' MS]||MBjjm|-a '

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tr I 'tliver your Checks for
Trunks, Valises and
other UACJdACiJ', to thi-

PEOPLE'S TRANSFER CO.

»c. 5 WuliingttB Stntt, FnOuA, Or.

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UA(;(iAi;K calleil for ami

Cherkeii for all oul-going

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WELCH, RITHET & CO.

Merchants and Commission Merchants,

Shipping and Insurance Agents

Agts. Pacific Coa^t Steamship Ws Steamers

Canning Her Majesty's Mails between San Francisco
and Victoria. Sailing dates from each port:
10th, 20th and 30th of each month.

Agents for Imperial Fire Insurance Co.
Agents for Maritime Marine Insurance Co.
Agents for Reliance Marine Insurance Co.
Agents for JVerv Zealand Marine Insurance Co.

Agents^or Moodyville Sawmill Company

OF BUERAED INLET.

Advances made on consignments to our friends in Eng-
land. Australia. China and Canadian markets.

BEPBESENTED BY

WELCH * CO., E. D. WELCH & 00

109 OaUfonU. SW, Tower Chamber,

PREFACE.

There is probably no portion of the North A meri-
can Continent, xvithin tlie confines of government and
civilization, concernimr which tlie general public lias
less definite and reliable information, than British
Columbia. Hitherto comparatively inaccessible, and
only by tedious and expensive modes of travel, it has
been known chiefly as the vast wilderness trap-
ping, and hunting ground, of the Hudson Bay
Company, and gold field of adventurous miners. Since
the inauguration of that stupendous undertaking, the
building of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and its
progress towards the western shores of the Province,
people abroad are beginning to inquire what this
region contains, to warrant such an enormous outlay
for its development. In the following pages we have
briefly outlined its resources and capacities' for sustain-
ing a large and prosperous population, and directed
attention to its wonderful attractions for the tourist
and health seeker. In the preparation of the same, I
am under great obligations to his Honor Lieut.-
Gov. Clement F. Cornwall, Hon. Jos. W. Trutch, C.
M. G., F. R. G. S., M. Inst. C. E., Dominion Cov-
er nmH A gt. for British Columbia, Hon. A lien Francis,
American Consul, Mr. William Charles, Chief Fac-
tor of the Hudson Bay Company, to the members and
officers of the Provincial Government, Mr. Noah
Shakespeare, M. P., Mayor of Victoria, Loftus R.
Mclnnes, M. D., Mayor of New Westminster,
the British Columbia Board of Trade, through its
President, Mr. R. P. Rithet, and Secretary, Mr. E.
Crow Baker, M. P., and to Mr. Wm. Wilson, and
others to whom I tender sincere thanks.

Victoria, B. 0., ith November, 1882.

I Ameri-
Hent and
(bl/'r has

BrUish
bhn, and
h it has
f.v f rap-
on Bay
s. Since
■ ing^ the

and its
rovince,
hat this
f outlay
toe have
sustain-
directed
^ tourist
same, I

Lieut.-
itch, C.
m Gov-
^rancis,
ef Fac-
■rs and
Noah
'tus R.
linster,
igh its
Wr.E.
'», and

r. C.

country, the claimfton Perry and Wild Horso creeks being the
inoHt productive. In 1852 the Hudson Bay Company discov-
ered gold bearing quartz of remarkable richness on the west
shore of Queen Charlotte Island. Gold has also been found
on the head waters of the Leech Kiver and other streams along
the west coast of Vancouver.

Silver, Copper and Iron,

Are known to be widely distributed throughout the Province.
Pieces of pure silver have been found from time to time in
many of the mining cami>s along the Fraser, also on Cherry
Creek in the Okanagan district, and at Omineca. In 1871 a
rich vein of silver was discovered near Hope , t)n the Fraser
River and traced for nearly halt a mile. There are deposits
of copper ore upon Howe Sound, Knights and Jervia Inlets,
the Queen Charlotte Islands, and at otlier points, the former
said to be quite extensive. There are inexhaustible quantities
of iron on Texada Island, situated in the GKilf of Georgia,
about 100 miles north of the City of Victoria, amidst the
great coal beds, timber supplies, and limestone quarries of
the Province.

The Coal Fields of British Columbia,

On Vancouver Island alone, comprise many hundred thou-
sand acres, lying mainly along the East Coast of the
Island between Nanaimo and Fort Rupert. The Nana-
imo coal lands embrace about ninety square miles, and those
of Comox upwards of 300. There are also extensive bodies
of coal on Quatsino Sound on the North-west coast of Van-
couver, about 250 miles North-west of Victoria, and large
veins are reported to have been discovered on the Queen
Charlotte Islands. These coals are chiefly bituminous, of the
cretaceous era and superior for general and domestic pur-
poses to any other found on the Pacific Coast.

The Timber Resources of the Province,

Are very extensive, embracing many hundred thousand acres
of Douglas fir lying in the West Cascade region, the choicest

bodioB upon Burrara and Jervis Inleta.. Mud Buy. Howe
Sound, and tlu, ouHt coaBt of Vancouver Island. It attain^
an enormouH growth, and being Btraight and exceedingly
tough and durable is in great demand the world over for ship
Bpars and timbers. Over thirty million feet are manufac-
tured into lumber annuaUy, chiefly for exportation to Asiatic,
Australian, and South American ports. The pine and spinice
of the interior, though much inferior in size and quality to
the fir of the coast, is sufficient in both and also in quantity
for all local purjioses.

Fish.

The waters of British Columbia teem with countless mil-
lions of the choicest salmon, halibut, cod, hemng, smelt,
sturgeon, whiting. &c., &c. The canning of salmon for expor-
tation is akeady a very important industry, the product for
the present season amounting to about 177,000 cases. They
also constitute the chief food dependence of the Indian popu-
lation. Oil is manufactured from dog fish, hemngs, and
oolachans, but the other fish mentioned are as yet, except to
a Umited extent, only caught forborne consumption.

Fur-bearing Animals

Are more numerous in this Province than in any other part of
America, excepting, perhaps, portions of Alaska, having tor
nearly 40 years through the Hudson Bay Company supphed
the world with most of their finest furs. They comprise
Bears, Beaver. Badgers, Coyotes, Foxes, Fishers Mar^ns,
Mmks, Lynxes. Otters, Panthers, Baccoons, Wolves, Wol-
verines, and other smaller kinds. The product of the fishenes
and fnrs of the Province amounts to nearly a miUion and a
half dollars annually.

Stock Raising in British Columbia.

British Columbia contains a very extensive area of grazing
lands of unsurpassed excellence. The whole mter-Bocky
Mountain Cascade Begion is specially adapted for pastoral
purposes. During my recent travels through the interior of

id Buy, Howe
id. It attains
ad exceedingly
Id over for Hhip
1 are mauufiuj-
ition to Asiatic,
pine and spmce
i and quality to
also in quantity

I countless mil-
lierring, smelt,
bdmon for expor-
tlic product for
00 cases. They
he Indian popu-
1, herrings, and
as yet, except to
oaption.

any other part of
laska, having for
)mpany supplied
They comprise
rishers, Martens,
18, Wolves, Wol-
ct of the fisheries
y a million and a

umbia.

e area of grazing
hole inter-Bocky
)ted for pastoral
h the interior of

the Province, I traversed hundreds of thouHiinds of acres in
the Nicola, Kamloops and Okanagan Valleys and Lakt» La
Hache country, covore«l with a luxuriant growth of the nutri-
cions bunch grass, and saw bands of thousands of cattle
rolling fat ; and way to the northwai'd in the Chilcotin, No-
chaco, Wastonquah and Peace River Valleys, are vast ranges,
hundrtids of milen in extent as yet almost untouched. Iiitei'-
views with nil the principal stock-raisers and dealers in British
Columbia confirms ray own observations that cattle raised upon
the bunch grass of this region are among the finest in the woild,
very large and fat, and the choicest of beeves. Mr. B. Van
Volktiuburgh, the leading butcher in the Province, meat purvey-
or to Her Majesty's Navy, the owner of 7000 acres of grazing
lands, and several thousand head of cattle and sheep; Mr. Thad-
deus Harper whose 3,000 or 4,000 head of cattle and horses
range upon his own estate of 25,000 acres, Mr. J. B. Graves
at present the largest owner of fat cattle, 8,000 head, includ-
ing 6,000 steers, Mr. C. M. B(!ak, of the Nicola Valley, who
had just sold 1,300 for 128,000 and been offered $27,000 for
the balance of his herd, Antoine Menaberriet, of Cache Creek,
Victor Guillaume, W. J. Roper, Hugh Morton, M. Sullivan,
Wm. Jones, John Pringle, John Peterson and W. J. Howe,
of Kamloops, Wm. Fortune, of Tranquille, A. L. Fortune,
James T. Steel, Cornelius O'Keefe, Greenhow, Postill and Eli
Lequime, of Okanagan, and John Clapperton, Alexander
Coutlie, A. VanVolkenburgh, John Gilmore, John Hamilton,
and Guichon of Nicola, Patrick Killroy, of L3iitQn, and others,
together the owners of three quarters of the sixty or sixty-five
thousand head of cattle in the Province, agree that stock
does exceedingly well in this region, increases at the rate of
thirty per cent, by the herd, or ninety per cent, for those
breeding; is free from disease, and subject to less loss from
occasional severe winters, than from drouth on the Southern
coast. Fat cattle are now in active demand, at from
twenty to twenty-five dollars for two-year old, and from
twenty-five to thirty-five dollars for three-year old steers, herds
selling at fi'om fifteen to twenty dollars per head. The
average weight of cattle upon the ranges is 550 for two-year
old, 675 for three-year old, and 800 for four-year old cattle.

Tlu'V foed in the oloviitfd valloyK during the Huninier, (ind in
winttT <m tliu Hhcltorcd minuy Hlo|Mm luid ItottoniH, kri'pin^ in
g(HHl condition upon a H|RK;iuH «if white Ktige, (^alltul worni-
W(mk1, wliioii Hiic(!eodH tlio bmu^h gr»HH, whc^ro the latter in too
I'loHely gi-azed. Mr. VjuiVolkt^nhurgh han had over 1000 tons
of hay Htaeked tip for over three years, having had no occa-
Hion to ftted it.

Three winters in twenty, cattle have died from Htarvation
and expoHiire oceamoned by deep snowH eovering tlie fetul.
Ku^h loHHeN are eontined mainly to breeding oowh, in the
Hpring of the year, for which n»ost prudent Ht<M5k-raiHors now
provide a rcHerve of hay. The Hteoni seldom Huccutub*
except in extraordinary wiaters, Huch oh that of 1879-80,
many of them keeping fat in the mountainH the yeoi* round.
The winter ranges tliroughout the Provinc^o are gtuierally fully
stocked, but hay for the whiter feeding required in the
northern part may be cut in unUmited quantities.

The Agricultural Lands of British Columbia

Comprise in the aggregate several million acres, only a smol I
portion of which are at present occupied. Vancouver Island
alone is estimated to contain over 300,000 acres, — 100,000 in
the vicinity of Victorio, 64,000 in North Jind South Saanich,
100,000 in the Cowichan district, 45,000 near Nanaimo, 5,000
on Salt Spring Island, 50,000 in the Comox district, and 3,500
acres near Sooke. Along the lower Fraser, including the
delta, there are about 175,000 acres of unsurpassed fertility-
There is a large tract of open arable land on the Queen Char-
lotte Islands without a white settler. In the Lillooet, Cache
Creek, Karaloops, Spollnmcheen, Salmon River, Okanugan,
Grand Prairie sections there are large amounts of excellent farm-
ing lands ; and in the Lake La Hache, upper Fraser, Chilicotin,
and Peace River countries, vast bodies, hundreds of mdes in
extent, awaiting settlement. They afford the greatest choice
of situation with reference to climate and productions. Here-
tofore, there has been but little encouragement for agricul-
turists in the interior, but the completion of the Canadian
Pacific Railway, will give them an excellent market on the
seaboard for all their surplus grain, potatoes, <fec. The great-

1111111101', iiiid in
ruH, k<!t>|)in^ in
nalUnl woria-
ir latter is too
Dvtir 1000 toHH
hiwl no occtt-

roni Ktarviition
riun tli« fotnl.
; oowH, in tlio
tilt-raiKoi'B now
ilom Huocuiubt
at of 1879-80,
lio year round,
generally fiilly
iquired in the
es.

[ Columbia

8, only a small
ncouver Island
ps,— 100,000 in
South Saanich,
^anaiino, 6,000
trict, and 3,500

including the
assed fei-tility-
e Queen Char-
Lillooet, Cache
er, Okonagan,
excellent far ui-
jser, Chilicotin,
3ds of miles in
jreat^st choice
actions. Here-
int for agricul-

the Canadian
market on the
&c. The great-

ness, rhiiracter, and diversity of tht) natund resounu'M of the
Frovinre, will ultimately employ a large population in their
develi)pnien^ and utili/aticm, creating a great demand at good
piiutiH for all kinds of farm produce.

The Provincial Land Laws

Provide that any person being the head of a family, a widow,
or singh; man over the age of 18 years and a British Hubjeet,
or any alien upon declaring his intention to be(;ome a British
subject, may record an}' triuit of unoccupied, unsurveyed and
unreHerved Crown Lands, not (exceeding 320 a<!res, north and
east of the Cascade or Coast Kange of Mountains, and 160
acres in the rest of the Province, and " pre-empt" or " home-
stead" the same, and obtain a title therefor upon paying the
sum of $1 per acre in four ecjual annual instalments, the first
one year from the date of record. Persons desiring to ac<|uire
land under this law nuist observe the following requirements ;

1st. The land applied for must be staked oif with posts at
each comer not less than four inches square, and five feet
above the ground, and marked in form as follows: (A B's )
Land, N. E. post. (A B's) Land, N. W. post, Ac.

'2ud. Applications must be mtule in writing to the Land
Commissioner, giving a fidl description of the land, and also
a sketch plan thereof, both in duplicate, and a declaration
under oath, made and filed in duplicate, that the land in
question is j)roperly subject to settlement bj* the applicant,
and that he or she is duly qualified to record the same, and u
recording fee of $2 paid.

3rd. Such homestead settler must within 30 days after
record enter into actual occupation of the land so pre-empted,
and continuously reside thereon personally or by his family
or agent, and neither Indians or Chinamen can be agents for
this purpose.

Absence from such land for a period of more than two
months continuously or four months in the aggregate during
the year, subjects it to forfeiture to the Goverament. Upon
payment for the land as specified, and a survey thei*eof at the
expense of the settler, u Crown grant for the same will issue,

provided that in the case of an alien he must first become a
naturalii'ied British subject before receiving title.

Homesteafls upon surveyed lands may be acquired, of the
same extent and in the same manner as upon the unsurveyed,
except that the applicant is not required to stake off and file
a plat of the tract desired.

Unsurveyed, unoccupied, and unreserved Crown lands may
be purchased in tracts of not less than 160 acres for $1 per
acre, cash in full at one payment before receiving title by
complying with the following conditions : —

Ist. Two months' notice of intended application to pur-
chase must be inserted at the expense of the applicant in the
British Columbia Gazette and in any newspaper circulating
in the district where the land desired lies, stating name of
applicant, locality, boundaries and extent of land applied for,
whicL notice must also be posted in a conspicuous place on
the land sought to be acquired, and on the Government office,
if any, in the district. The applicant must also stake off the
said land as required in case of pre-emption, and also have
the same surveyed at his own expense.

Surveyed lands, after having been offered for sale at public
auction for one dollar per acre, may be purchased for cash at
that price.

The Mining Laws

Provide that every person over sixteen years of age may hold a
mining claim, after first obtaining from the Gold Commis-
sioner a Free Miner's Certificate or License, at a cost of five
dollars for one year and fifteen dollaro for three years.
Every miner locating a claim must record the same in the
office of the Gold Commissioner, for a period of one or more
years, paying therefor at the rate of $2.50 per year.

Every free miner may hold at the same time any num>
ber of claims by purchase, but only two claims by pre-emp-
tion in the same locality, one mineral claim and one other
claim, and sell, mortage, or dispose of the same.

The size of claims are as follows : —

The bar diggings, a strip of land, 100 feet wide at high-

first become a

.cquired, of the
he unsiirveyed,
ike off and file

own lands may
teres for$l per
jivmg title by

ication to pur-
applicant in the
iper circulating
tating name of
and appUed for,
icuous place on
)vemment office,
so stake off the
, and also have

for sale at public
ased for cash at

>f age may hold a
Gold Commis-
at a cost of five
■or three years,
the same in the
I of one or more
r year.

> time any num»
ims by pre-emp-
n and one other
rme.

et wide at high-

water mark and thence extending into the river to the lowest
water level.

For dry diggings, 100 feet square.

Creek claims shall be 100 feet long measured in the
direction of the general course of the stream and shall extend
in wid h from base to base of the hill, or bench on each side,
but when the hills or benches are less than 100 feet apart, the
claim shall be 100 feet square.

Bench cl.iims shall be 100 feet square.

Mineral claims, that is claims containing, or supposed to
contain minerals (other than coal) in lodes or veins, shall be
1,500 feet long by 600 feet wide.

Discoverers of new mines are allowed 300 feet in length
for one discoverer, 600 feet for two, 800 feet for three, and
1000 in length for a party of four.

Creek discovery claims extend 1000 feet on each side of
the centre of the creek or as far as the summit.

Coal lands west of the Cascade Bange in tracts not less
than 160 acres, may be purchased at not less than ten dollars
per acre, and similar lands east of the Cascade Range, at not
less than five dollars per acre.

The Government and People.

British Columbia is governed by a Legislative Assembly
of twenty-five members elected by the people every four
years. The Lieut.-Govemor and a Council of three Minis-
ters constitute the Executive body, Hon. Robert Beaven, Prem-
ier, Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works, Minister of Fin-
ance and Agriculture, Hon. J. R. Hett, Attorney General,
Hon. "W. J. Armstrong, Provincial Secretary and Minister of
Mines, being its present officers. Political and religious free-
dom, free public schools, liberal homestead pre-emption and
mining privle^es, are guaranteed and secured by the laws.
Justice is firmly administered, good order prevails, and
life and property are secure throughout the Province.
So far as the government is concerned, there has been nothing
to remind me that I have crossed the line into the Queen's
dominions, excepting the glad demonstrations of welcome
accorded the Governor General, the Marquis of Lome and

the Queen's daughter^ Princess Louise. There is the same
freedom of opinion, and outspoken criticism of public men
and measures; elections are conducted with the same partisan
zeal, and the Press is just as abusive as in the United States.
The people generally entertain a very friendly feeling toward
the United States. The portraits of George and Martha
Washington, Lincoln, Grant, Sheridan, Garfield, and other
distinguished Americans, are often seen hanging upon the
walls of both pubho and private houses in all parts of the
Province, together with those of members of the Royal
family.' The population is quite cosmopolitan and liberal
in their views. Stopping at an mn in the interior recently, it
was found that each of the seven white persons present,
represented a different nationality. The popular feeling is
strongly opposed to Chinese immigration, the present Provin-
cial Government refusing to employ any Chinamen upon the
public works.

The Indian Nations of British Columbia

Afford a most interesting study for the ethnologist. They
are eleven in number evidently of Asiatic origin, comprising
altogether about 35,000 souls, —the Tsimpsheean's, Quacke-
weth, and Hydah nations being the most populous. The West
Vancouver and the Hydah Indians of Queen Charlotte Island
were formerly quite hostile to the whites, having cruelly mur.
dered several ship crews cast upon their shores ; but through
the influence of missionary training, several severe chastise-
ments by English gunboats, and their humane liberal treat-
ment by the general government, they are now quite friendly
I have visited most of the principal tribes' during the past
season, and have always been cordially received in their
houses or wigwams.

They are generally much inferior both in stature and
form to the white race. A few of th3 Queen Charlotte Hydah's
are fairly good looking, and well formed, though it would
require an exceedingly fertile and romantic ima^nation to
discover among these people a single specimen of the beauti-
ful Indian maiden, we have all read about, but whom so few,

e is the same
of public men
9 same partisan
United States,
feeling toward
e and Martha
leld, and other
iging upon the
11 parts of the
of the Royal
an and liberal
(rior recently, it
arsons present,
»ular feeling is
present Provin-
amen upon the

Columbia

inologist. They
gin, comprising
leean's, Quacke-
ilous. The West
charlotte Island
ing cruelly mur.
98 ; but through
severe chastise-
ae liberal treat-
ir quite friendly
during the past
ioeiv6d in their

in stature and
harlotte Hydah's
hough it would
imagination to
en of the beauti-
ut whom so few,

have ever seen. They are almost entirely self-supporting,
depending not alone upon the wonderful rish and game sup-
plies of this region, but in many instances cultivating farms
and raising cattle and horses. Large numbers are also em-
ployed by the salmon fisheries and canneries, lumber mills,
steamboat Unes, and railroad contractors, and are considered
superior to Chinese laborers.

Mr. Duncan's remarkable work at MeHakatlah, where he
has colonized over a thousand of the Tsimpsheans, who now
live in good houses, worship m a $10,000 church of their own
erection, school their children, operate a salmon cannery, a
sawmill, and eng^e in other self supporting pursuits, demon-
strates the possibilities attainable by well directed efforts for
their civilization upon a Christian basis.

The Principal Cities, Towns and Settlements
in British Columbia

Are Victoria, Esquimalt, Saanich, Cowichan, Nanaimo, Wel-
lington, Oomox, Fort Rupert, and Sooke, on Vancouver
Island , New Westminster, Port Moody, Moodyville, Hast-
ings, Granville, Langley, Sumass, Chilliwhack, Hope, Emory;
Tale, Lytton, Lillooet, Cache Creek, Cook's Ferry, Clmton,
Lake La Hache, Soda Creek, Quesnelle, Stanley, Barkerville,
Savona's Ferry, Kamloops, Tranquille, Grand Prairie, Sal-
mon River, Spallumcheen, Okanagan, Mission, ^Cherry Creek
Similkameen, Port Essington, Rivers' Inlet, Metlakathla,
Fort Simpson, and Cassiar, on the Mainland, containing alto-
gether about fifty thousand inhabitants.

Victoria,

The chief city and capital of British Columbia, occupies a
magnificent situation on the south shore of Vancouver Island,
about 60 miles from the Pacific, and 750 north of San Francisco.
Its immediate surroundings are charmingly picturesque, em-
bracing a beautiful harbor and inlet, pine and oak covered
shores and rolling hiUs, with green forests of fir and pine clad
mountains in the neto back groimd. The distant view is one
of exceeding grandeur, comprising the loftiest peaks of the

Olympic and Cascade Mountains. A person unfamiliar with
the marvelous progress ot civilization in the new world sur-
veying its busy marts of trade, ships of commerce laden w'.th
exports for the most distant ports, numerous manufacturing in-
dustries, well graded streets, and good public and private build-
ings, would scarcely believe that all these things are the crea-
tion of a little more than twenty years, and that only a gener-
ation has passed since the Hudson Bay Company first planted
the English flag on these shores. But this is only the begin-
ning as compared with the brilliant future which awaits Vic-
toria. The resources of the vast region to which she holds
the commercial key are only in the bud of their development.
That she has reached her present status while laboring under
the great disadvantages of extreme remoteness from the
centres of population and demands for her products exces-
sively costly transportation, shows not only their enormous
extent and richness, but what may reasonably be expected
when all railway communication shall be established with the
East and the coimtry opened to immigration and capital.

Victoria is provided with all the concomitants of the pro-
gressive cities of our times — good religious and educational
advantages, three newspapers, the Coloniit, Standard and
Evening Post, a public library, and the usual benevolent
orders, an able and active Board of Trade, gas and water
works, efficient police and fire departments, a beautiful public
park, and a well ordered government.

;i(

Victoria as a Summer Resort for Tourists and
Health Seekers.

Nature has awarded to Victoria, the most attractive and
interesting situation and surroundings, of any city on the north
Pacific Coast. Possessing a most enjoyable, invigorating and
healthful climate, she lies central amidst the sublimest
scenery in the new world. The waters of Puget Sound and
of the Inside Passage to Alaska, between Vancouver and the
Mainland, embraces more that is unique and wonderful in
nature, than can be found on any equal area of the earth's
surface. I can scarcely conceive of a grander panorama of

nfamiliar with
lew world sur-
irce laden w'.th
inufacturing in-
d private build-
;8 are the crea-
it only a gener-
ly first planted
only the begin'
ich awaits Vic-
fhich she holds
r development,
laboring under
ness from the
products exces-
their enormous
ly be expected
•Ushed with the
.nd capital,
ants of the pro-
9ind educational
Standard and
3ual benevolent
, gas and water
beautiful public

fourists and

t attractive and
city on the north
invigorating and
b the sublimest
iget Sound and
ncouver and the
id wonderful in
a of the earth's
ier panorama of

resort. Her drives are unsuipassed, both in respect t. fl .
excellence of the roads, andthe beautvnf fl. '^^''P''*'* * "»*'
which they pass. The tlnJ'':l:7'!:'^rZ7 t'''^'

Moody and Nanaimo-and r^^L Westminster, Port

Sound-Pnrf TV. ^ o ^ pnncipal towns of Puget

tion, in keeping wi.t W 0^:.^!^^ ^J^^"'^

Travels in British Columbia

NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN.

TRIP NUMBER ONE.

From Victoria to Yale, the head of navigation on the Fraser
River, toith Capt. John Irving, on the steamer B. P. Bithet.

Through the Archipelago De Haro, Plumper Pass, Ovlf
of Georgia, and South Arm of Fraser Biver. Magnificent
scenery, salmon fisJieries and canneries, rich ddta and
bottom lands. The towns of Ladner's Landing, New

Westminster, Mission, Maple Bidge, Langley, Matsqui,
Sumas, C hillitohack, Harrison Biver, Hope, Emory, and

Yale — 350 miles.

Yale. B. C, 14th August, 1882.

Victoria, the beautiful capital city of the Province, is the
headquarters and starting point of all the principal steamboat
and other lines of transportation through it. Of these, the
Pioneer line of steamers to the head of navigation on the
Fraser Biver, is one of the most important. It comprises
three boats, the Wm. Irving, B. P. Bithet and Beliance,
owned by Capt. John Irving and others, which run in con-
junction with the Hudson Bay steamers Princess Louise,
Enterprise and Otter. 1 took passage on the B. P. Bithet,
Capt. John Irving, one of the finest boats upon the waters of
the North- West Coast. She is a new, powerful stem-wheeler,
200 feet long, 39 feet wide, 816 tons burden, accommodating

250 pusHcugers, ojkI having ii speed of 13 miles an hour. Her
cabins are elegantly finished and furaishod, state-rooms
largit, and table excellent. The usual time to Yule — 175
miles from Victoria — is from 18 to 22 hours on the
upwHjd, and twelve hours on the downwaril trip, the difler-
ence being occasioned by the strong currents encountered
both in the straits and river, in some places from seven to
eight miles an hour. No passage of equal distance in the
world affords a succession of more magnificent natural views.
Sailing out of the fine land-locked harbor of Victoria into
the Straits of Juan de Fuca, on such a glorious day as yester-
day, presents a panorama of indescribable beauty and
sublimity. The grandest mountains outUne the horizon on
every hand — rising 5,000 feet from Vancouver, the snow-
covered Olympian Peaks 8,000 feet— and sweeping East and
Northward along the rugged Cascades the eye is arrested by
the white crowning peaks of Mount Baker, 10,800 feet above
the sea. The intervening landscape is oxceeitingly pictur-
esque and charming. Sailing northward, the immediate shores
of Vancouver, faced with a sea wall of rounded trappean rock,
sparsely wooded with pine and oak, receding gradually,
are interspersed with pleasant green slopes and park-like
openings. The large, conspicuous mansion situated upon
the commanding eminence in the Eastern suburbs
of Victoria is the Government House, now occu-
pied by His Honor Lieutenant-Governor Cornwall. A
few days ago the Governor kindly showed me through the
fine grounds, which a£ford a most magnificent view of the
incomparably grand scenery of this region. Looking into
Cadboro Bay — three miles from the city opposite the
small, rocky islands of Discovery and Chatham, a fine little
harbor of refuge— a number of well improved farms are visible.
Driven in here by a storm in April last, crossing from San
Juan Island to Victoria, I was surprised to find vegetation
more advanced than in Oregon and Washington, which I had
just left. Several varieties of flowers bloom here through-
out the winter.

Approaching the entrance to the Canal De Haro, San
Juan Island, to the North-East, first engages the attention.

nil hour. Her
Htatc-ruoins

to Yule— 175
loui'H on the
rip, the ilifler-
ts encountered
from seven to
distance in the

natural views.

' Victoria into

day as yester-

e beauty and

the horizon on

ver, the snow-

Bping East and

is arrested by

,800 feet above

edingly pictar-

imediate shores

trappean rock,

ling gradually,

and park-like

situated upon

stem suburbs

», now occu-

Comwall. A

le through the

nt view of the

Looking into

opposite the
am, a fine little
irms are visible,
tssing from San
find vegetation
>n, which I had
I here through-

De Haro, San
I the attention.

It is the largest of the San Juan Group — comprising OrciiH,
Lopez, Bhikely, Decatur, Waldron, Shaws, Stuart, Speiden,
Henry, and others — being thii-toen miles long, with an average
width of about four miles. It acquired historical importance
as disputed territory, having been jointly occupied by the
English and American forces from 1858 to 1873, when the
boundary question was finally settled. The white faced (iliffs
of the extensive limestone quarry ot McCurd^ 's is a ])romi-
uent landmark on its Southern slope. Lying to the AVestward
of the group, and comprising the Archipelago De Haro, are
numerous Islands belonging to Bntish Columbia. Of these.
Salt Spring, Galiano, Satimia, Pender, Sidney, Moresby, and
Mayne are the most imp(<i tant. The main channel, usually
taken by deep draught vessels, runs between San Juan,
Stuart, and Waldron t)n the East, nnil Sidney, Moresby,
Pender, and Satunia on the West ; but our route, that of
most river steamers, lay between Sidney, James, Moresby,
Portland, Pender, Provost, Mayne, and Galiano Islands,
reaching tlie Gulf of Georgia through Active or Plumper
Pass. These islands are uniformly rock-bound, with basalt,
sandstone, and conglomerate formations, interspersed with
lignite, rugged and irregular in outline, thickly wooded with
fir and spiuce, and rising from five to fifteen hundred feet
above the sea. Their climate is healthy and imiform, rain-
fall not excessive, and great extremes of cold or heat are
unknown. The forests abound with deer, otter, coon, and
mink, and the sun-ounding waters with salmon, halibut, cod,
and other excellent fish. There arc no beasts of prey, or
poisonous reptiles. Approaching the Pass a steam sealing
schooner and three large Chinook canoes, filled with Indians,
are sailing northward. Their huts are occasionally seen upon
the shores. A considerable settlement of whites occupy a
pleai^ant green slope on Vancouver Island at Cowichan. Then
we seem to be advancing against a mountain wall of solid rock,
and, just as we are wondering most where we can be going,
two channels suddenly ajjpear— the left leading on to Nanaimo,
the right Plumper Pass — not exceeding two or three hundred
yards wide in places, and about two miles long, to the Gulf
of Georgia. Now we head for the Delta of the Eraser River,

viHiblo in the distance. The Gulf of Georgia is from nine to
twenty miles in width, and one hundred and twenty miles in
length. When opposite Point Roberts, the boundary line
between British Columbia and the United States, a wide
pathway cut through the timber, entirely across, is plainly
seen from the steamer with the naked eye. Just before
entering the South Arm of the Fraser Biver we pass the
Steamer Beaver, which Capt. Irving sayH is the oldest on the
Pacific coast, having come round the Horn in 1836. She is
still doing good service for her owners, the British Columbia
Towing Company.

The Fraser River.

The third largest stream flowing into the Pacific upon the
Continent of North America, rising in the Rocky Mountains,
drains, with its tributaries, an area estimated at 125,000
square miles, reaching from the himdred and eighteenth to
the hundred and twent^' fifth degree of longitude. The inter-
vening country embraces the greatest diversity of physical
features, climates, soils, natural resources, and adaptations.
East of the Cascade Range, mountains, rolling foot hills, and
elevated plateaus, covered with bunch grass, sage brush,
plains, forest and table lands, with occasional prairie open-
ings, are its prevailing characteristics. It is rich in gold and
other valuable minerals, contains extensive stock ranges of
unsurpassed excellence, and large areas of arable lands ex-
cellently adapted to the growth of cereals, roots, and fruits
generally. Irrigation is necessary over a considerable portion
of this region. The summers are hot, the nights cool and
sometimes frosty in the valleys and in the elevated plateaus ;
the winters dry and not unfrequently severe, though the snow
fall, except in the mountains, seldom exceeds two feet in
depth. Crossing th&X3ascades its Western slopes, river val-
leys, embrace the greatest variety of climates and range of pro-
ductions, varying according to iJtitude and local surface con-
figurations. Forests of Douglas pine, cedar, spruce, and hemlock
cover a considerable portion of this region, though there are
extensive bodies of excellent grazing and agricultural land.
But no general description can convey correct impressions

is from nine to
twenty miles in

boundary line
States, a wide
}roHs, is plainly
3. Just before
)r we pass the
le oldest on the

1836. She is
ritish Columbia

'aoifio upon the
cky Mountains,
ted at 126,000
d eighteenth to
de. The inter-
ity of physical
id adaptations.
I foot hills, and
>s, sage brush,
il prairie open-
ich in gold and
took ranges of
rable lands ex-
ots, and fruits
derable portion
ights cool and
ated plateaus;
lough the snow
Is two feet in
opes, river val-
id range of pro-
ial surface con-
se, and hemlock
ongh there are
ricultural land,
ct impressions

concerning or do justice to this r«gion. The climatic conditionn
existing in the same latitudes on the Atlantic coast affords no
guide in judging of those found h«!re. The warm
Asiatic ocean currents sweeping along the Western coast and
through the Gulf of Georgia modifies the temperature in a
marked degree. It is one of the healthiest portions of the
globe. Even the river bottoms and deltas are free from all
malarial feveis.

The Rich and Extensive Deltas of the
Fraser River.

The delta lands of the Fraser are more extensive than those
of any other river flowing into the Pacific. Advancing up the
South Arm, a broad, rapid, muddy steam, the tide lands
stretch away for many miles on either hand, extending from
Boundary Bay on<the East to Point Gray on the West, a
distance of thirteen miles, embracing over 100,000 acres
susceptible of cultivation. Enriched by the silt and
alluvial deposits of ages, brought down from the
plains and mountain slopes of the interior, they are famous
for their inexhaustible fertiUty. They generally require
dyking to the height of three or four feet, for protection
against high tides, though escaping, almost altogether, any
damaging effects from the spring floods. Messrs. Turner &
Wood, civil engineers and surveyors, at New Westminster,
who have recently examined a tract of 4,600 acres near Mud
Bay estimate that it can be reclaimed in a body for $8000,
and that from two to four dollars per acre will securely dyke
the average Fraser delta land. Every one bears testimony to
their exceeding fertility and durability. At Ladner's Land-
ii^ the Bithet took on board a quantity of excellent hay, grown
close at hand. The young man shipping it said that three
tons per acre was the average yield, and that it sells readily
for from twelve to sixteen dollars per ton. Hon. W. J. Arm-
strong, M. P. P., informs me that he saw a field which, after
growing timothy ten or eleven years in succession, produced
three tons per acre. He estimates the cost of cutting, curing,
and baling at not exceeding four dollars per ton. These delta

•«

laii(lHHi-<> iUho woll iulii]it<'«l tooutM, Imiioy, iiiul rootn K<Mi(>riil-
\y. Tlu'y iini ottVr.ul in triirtH t«> miit ut front ttni to twtaity
ilollars per iicro, and ui-u bttin^ mpidly rucliiiuu'tl and iin-
provt'd. Mr. E. A. Wudliiinm and Mr. Adair havt* viu-h dyked
()V«>r l,20<)-a(*r(t tractH, and at Ladni'r'H Landing tli(*rt> \n a
prospi>ronH Htittleiueut of fariuori* and Htock riiiuerM upon
HUialler triu^tH.

The Salmon Fisheries and Canneries.

Although Halmon HHhing and canning has btutn an important
induHtry on the Paritic oouHt nince 18(>(), and during tiio liiHt
twi'lvtt yearn hnn grown to inuueuHu proportiouH — a ninght
firnion tlie Cohiinbiu Biver (Kinuey'H) canning Hfty thouHand
cdHes during tlie Heason of 1881 — it is only ft few years since
the eKtablishment , by Ewen &. Co., of the first cannery on the
Eraser. Now there are thirteen — the Phoenix, English & Co.,
British American Packing Co., British Union, Adair & Co.,
Delta, Findlay, Durham & Brodie, British Coluud>ia Packing
Co., Ewon & Co., Laidlaw & Co., Standard Co., Haighife Son,
and the Richmond Packing Co., their aggregate product
diiiiug the present season amoiiuting to not less than 230,000
cases. The fish of Northern waters are of superior quality,
and their ranges for hatching and feeding so extensive and
excellent that the salmon, especially if protected by the Gov-
ernment, « ill constitute one of the great permanent resources
of this region. Before proceeding far up the Eraser we
meet the advance of the numerous fleet of salmon fishing
boats which throng the river for a distance of fifteen miles
from its mouth. They are from twenty-two to twenty-four
feet in length, and from five to six feet wide, each frirnishcd
with a gill net, made of strong linen, from one hundred and
fifty to two hundred fathoms long, and about forty half-
inch meshes deep, and manned by two Indians. The steamer
stopping to discharge and receive freight at a small settlement
on the left bank, at Ladner's Landing, consisting of the Delta
salmon fishery and cannery and McNeely and Buie's store
and hotel, afforded an opportunity to visit

(I rootH ^<Mi«>nil>
nil t(*ii to twenty
liiiiii«>«l Hiul iiii-
iuv« eiu;li dyked
idiii^ tliero iH II
:!k raiHura upon

inneries.

m an iinportunt

during tlio liiHt

rtioiiH — a Hinglo

^^ fifty tliouHiiud

low youVH since

i ciiunory on the

c, EugliHliA' Co.,

)n, Adttir & Co.,

lumbia Packing

o., Haigh & Son,

;;regate ])roduct

ms than 230,000

nperior quality,

o extensive and

ted by the Gov-

aneut resources

the Fraser we

salmon fishing

of fifteen miles

to twenty -four

each fiirnishcd

ae hiuidred and

»out forty half-

The steamer

imall settlement

Jig of the Delta

id Biiie's store

The Delta Cannery.

The largeHt in Di-itish Coluiiihia. (7(ininit<n<'ing openitioiiH
only tive yearHago, its hiisineHs liaHaHsuniedsucii proportit.nH
that it now tunploys a force of over 400 men, iiHO
('hinese, and KiO IndiaiiH, and a fishing outfit consiHting in
part of thirty-eight lioats and nets, two seines, one steam tug
and four s<'ov/h. The cannery is 1(50x1*20 ft^et sipiare, two
stories high, and in some respects the most completely
furnished of any on the Pacific coast. It is firovided with a
boiler sixteen .feet long, and four feet in diameter, twelve
tanks, two retorts of 8,300 cans capacity each, filling and
soldering machincH, four latpier baths, and every convenience
for the rapid and thorough performance of the various oper-
ations necessary to secure the highest degree of perfection in
the preparation of this most excellent article of food. China-
men, under the supervision of experienced white foremen, are
employed for the canning process, and Indians for catching the
fish, receiving from $1 26 to 12 00 per day — tlie net tenders
the latter amount. The daily catch per boat ranges from fifty
to three hundred salmon, the fleet sometimes bringing in
twelve or fifteen thousand. This season the run has been so
extraordinary that the Delta Cannery put up 1,280 cases in a
single day and 6,600 oases in six days. Mssrs. Page & Ladner, the
managing partners of the firm, showed me their product for
the last month, amounting to the enormous quantity of 25,000
cases, or 1,152,000 cans, covering every available space of the
immense lower floor to the height of over £ve feet, the largest
number ever packed by any one establishment during the
same period of time. Two himdred and fifty barrels of
salmon, or about 1,3000, were also salted within the month.
The company ship their goods direct to London or Liver-
pool through the firm of Welch, Bithet & Co., of Victoria.
Prrioeeding we soon reach

New Westminster,

The principal city of the Mainland, formerly the capital of
the Crown Colony, occupying a very pleasant and command-
ing situation on the right bank of the Fraser, about fifteen

miles from the mouth and 75 miles from Victoria. The site
wa^ '"hosen by Col. Moody, in 1858, being then covered with
a dense growth of enormous cedars some of which were
twelve feet in diameter. Hon. J. W. Armstrong, just ap-
pointed Provincial Secretary, erected the first house — a store
and dwelling — in March, 1859. This gentlemen related to
me how it came by its present name. Originally called Queen
or Queensborough, a dispute having arisen between Gov.
Douglas and Col. Moody as to which should prevail, the
matter was submitted for settlement to Her Majesty Queen
Victoria who decided against both by substituting New
Westminster. It lies in the heart of the great resources of
the Province, surrounded by the most extensive and richest
bodies of agricultural lands, with large tracts of the finest
limber near at hand, and in the midst of fisheiies so enor-
mously productive that thirteen canning estabUshments
within a radius of twelve miles, will put up over
twelve million cans of salmon, alone, the present
season. Vessels drawing fifteen feet of water reach New
Westminster in safety at all times and find good anchorage
and wharfage, and Port Moody, on Burrard's Inlet, the best
and most commodious harbor along these shores, selected as
the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, is only six
miles distant. The city, now containing a population of
about 2,500, is in a very prosperous condition, but scarcely
realizes the tuture which awaits it upon the establishment of
railroad communication with the interior and the East, the
influx of population, and the consequent development of the
great resources of this region. Besides many well built
stores, residences, and hotels, it contains the Provincial
Penitentiary and Asylum, a public hospital, and good church
and school buildings. A fine Post Office is in course of erec-
tion. A free reading room and library is well sustained,
There are two local newspapers — the British Columbian and
Mainland Ouardian — well conducted and supported. At the
hospital, Mr. Adam Jackson, the courteous and efficient
Superintendent, after conducting me through the several
commodious and sunny wards showed me, in the fine flower
garden attached, a sweet pea vine over seven-and-a-half feet

toria. The site
en covered with

of which were
strong, just ap-
. house — a store
tmen related to
Qy called Que^n
I between Gov.
lid prevail, the
Majesty Queen
Bstituting New
lat resources of
sive and richest
a of the finest
heries so enor-

establishmehts
put up over
the present
iter reach New
;ood anchorage
I Inlet, the best
res, selected as
oad, is only six

population of
)n, but scarcely
stablishment of
id the East, the
ilopment of the
lany well built
the Provincial
nd good church
I course of erec-
well sustained,

Columbian and
ported. At the
I and ei&cient
gh the several
1 the fine flower
-and-a-}ialf feet

in height, and close by, vegetables of surprising growth.
Bheumatism and paralysis are the most prevalent diseases
among his patients. At the time o.*^ my visit, just after pay'
day among the canneries, the city was full of Indians, repre-
senting all the various Mainland and Island tribes, living in
canvas tents and huts, dressed in every conceivable mixture
of barbarous and civilized costume, one of the most interest-
ing collections of human creatures ever seen on the earth.
These Northern tribes are generally good workers, and earn
during the summer considerable sums of money which they
spend freely upon whatever most pleases their fancy. Many
of their purchases, which the traders said included almost
everything, were exceedingly amusing, especially in the line
of dress goods. Sometimes a prosperous buck will jump
from a barbarous into a civilized costume at a bound, and
parade the streets in a black suit and white silk necktie, and
everything except habits to correspond. One Indian was
seea proudly leading his little daughter whom he had
gaily dressed in white, with a blue silk sash, a pretty white
waist, and a silk parsol in hand, but bare footed and legged.
Though there were probably upwards of a thousand Indians
in the city I saw no disorderly conduct among them. I am
indebted to Capt. A. Peele, a prominent druggist and apothe-
caiy of New Westminster, and Meterological Observer for the
Dominion Government and Signal Oflicer for the United
States, for the following valuable notes of the mean temper-
atures and rainfall at that place for a period of six years : —

VBAN

TEMP.

BianBST

TEMP.

LOWEST
TEMP.

BAIMFAU..

S4.9
S7.9
40.S
48.1
54.9
58.3
68.8
61.9
S6.9
48.9
40.8
36.2

57
57
65
74
82
87
92
8(
81
75
59

-7
16
18
20
34
38-
4&
44
42
26
14
8

7.36

6.61

March

6.77

April

2.8fi

M&y

3.34

2.33

July

1.66

Aufnist

2.10

8.68

October

5.83

7.68

December

7.87

Between New Westminster and Yale, a distance
of 100 miles, the mail steamers not unfrequently make

thirty-five landings, including stoppages at railway construc-
tion camps. Maple Ridge, twelve miles ; Langley, seventeen.
Riverside, thirty-one; Matsqui, thirty-three; Sumas,
forty-one ; ChilUwhack, forty-seven ; Hope, eighty-five ; and
Emory, ninety-five miles above, being the most important
places.

Langley.

Though only a small village, is the oldest settlement on
the river having been laid out for a town in 1858.
There is a considerable tract of rich, arable land a
short distance back, of which the Hudson Bay Company own
about a thousand acres. Though the area susceptible of
cultivation along the Lower Fraser is comparatively limited
it comprises in the aggregate over 150,000 acres, excluding the
deltas. At Matsqui there is a prairie opening three or four
miles square, and on the right bank opposite, north of the
Mission, Burton's Prairie, containing over 3,000 acres.
Sumas Prairie is estimated to contain 25,000 acres of farming
lands. Surrounding

Chilliwhack,

•

A village of about twenty-five houses on the left bank,
there is a large body of level, lightly timbered, alder, maple and
pine wooded bottoms, enclosed by a grand ampitheatre of
mountains. The soil is a deep clay, alluvial, exceedingly produc-
tive. Mr. A. Pierce told me that the lessee ofhis farm, situated
three miles back from the landing, will clear $2,000 this season
from forty-eight acres under cultivation. Though comprising
the principal farming settlement on the river, these lands are
only about half occupied. In common with most of those
described they are subject to occasional overflows,
sometimes quite disastrous. The Provincial Government ha s
undertaken to protect them by dyking and will donbtloss
succeed in doing so. For sixty miles from the mouth of
Harrison River the Fraser has little valley proper, the moun-
tains rising abruptly from two to five thousand feet above the
sua, their rugged, furrowed sides sparsely covered with

Iway construc-
;ley, seventeen,
bree ; Sumas,
ghty-five; and
lost important

settlement on
awn in 1858.
rable land a
Company own
susceptible of
atively limited
, excluding the
three or four
north of the
3,000 acres,
ires of farming

he left bank,
der, maple and
mpitheatre of
dingly produc-
farm, situated
100 this season
igh comprising
liese lands are
most of those
il overflows,
tvemmenthas
oil doubtless
he mouth of
•er, the moun-
feet above the
severed with

Douglas fir, and sharply defined peaks with remnants of
the winter snows. There are occasional slopes, benches and
bottoms of small extent, occupied, though the general aspect
of the country, outside the small settlements, is a wild,
unbroken wilderness. This was the field of the great Fraser
Kiver gold excitement of twenty-four years ago, when miners
rushed in from all parts of the world, encountering untold
hardships and dangers to share in its rich treasures. The
best diggings were found upon the lower benches and bars of
the river, American, Murderer's, Texas, Emory, Hill's Sailor's
Boston, Kanaka, Fargo's, Chapman's, Wellington, and Foster's
being the richest. Scores of brave fellows lost their lives in
attempting to reach them, in canoes and small boats, through
the terrible rapids of the awful canyons intervening. Between
Cornish and American Bars, near the mouth of the Coquhalla
River, we touch at the small village of

Hope,

Charmingly situated upon a high bench at the base of the
mountains. A trail leads from thence 160 miles North-
Eastward into the rich Similkameen and Okanagan country.
A silver mine, said to be very rich, has been discovered upon
the side of the mountain within sight, upon the development
of which great anticipations are based. I am informed by
Mr. B. C. Oleson, Supt. of the C. P.R. R. powder works, that
there are good openings in the upper Skagit Valley, within
forty or fifty miles of Hope, for thirty or forty families.

Salmon Running and Catching Extraordinary.

I have read, with much allowance, accounts of the multi-
tudes of salmon sometimes seen in the smaller tributaries of
the Umpqua, Columbia, and Eraser Rivers, but,, after what I
have witnessed to-day, am prepared to believe any fish story
within the limits of possibilities. Arriving at Emory, five
miles below Yale, two young men from San Francisco report-
ed immense numbers of salmon at the mouth of Emory Creek,
a small, rapid mountain stream flowing into the Eraser just
above. Going there I foimd it packed so fiill in places that I

ooimted, while standing in one position apon the raikoad
bridge, over four hundred different salmon. Mentioning the
matter to a resident, he remarked, " Oh ! that's nothing. If
you want to see salmon go to the next creek beyond." Beach-
ing there, after a walk of about four miles, and taking a central
position upon the bridge crossing it, I counted, without
mo>ing, over 800 salmon. This stream plunges down the
mountain side with a fall of, probably, one hundred and fifty
feet within a mile-and-a-half, being from five to fifteen yards
in width. For a distance of several rods up from its mouth ,
the salmon were crowding in from the muddy Fraser, now
again rapidly rising, almost as thick as they could swim, and
in their desperate efforts to ascend the successive falls above
presented a spectacle never before witnessed by the oldest
native settler. Mr. John Woodworth, who has lived here
for twenty-four years, says he never heard of the like. The
salmon is a fish of extraordinary strength and agility, and are
said to jump and swim up perpendicular falls from ten to
twenty feet in height. I stood upon the bank an hour and
watched them in their desperate struggles to make the ascent
of several of lesser size within sight. Of hundreds which
made the attempt, only a few, comparatively, succeeded, but
fell back exhausted, splashing and whirling among the
boulders. Many were covered with great bruises, some had
lost their eyes, a few lay dead upon the shore, others were
dying, and all seemed nearly worn out. Steppmg close to a
pool filled with ihem, I easily caught two in my hands, which
offered but little resistance. Befoife leaving, a photographer,
Mr. D. B. Judkins, of Nev/ Westminster, arrived and took two
views of the remarkable scene ; Mr. Daniel Aishworth, wife and
family were also present. Beaching Yale £ told a hotel-
keeper about it, estimating the salmon at thousands.
•'Thousands!" he exclaimed, almost with indignation, "Why,
there are millions of them now running up the Fraser within
a few noiles of town." Getting aboard Mr. Onderdonk's con-
struction train I rode along the river, fifteen miles to the end
of track. Millions was probably not much of an exagger-
ation, for although the river was quite muddy, sohoob ot
salmon, numbering thousands each, could be seen from the

the railroad
entioning the

nothing. If
id." Reach-
ciiig a central
ited, without
down the
[red and fifty
ifteen yards
n its mouth ,

Fraser, now
d swim, and
e falls above
)y the oldest
8 lived here
e like. The
lity, and are

from ten to
u hour and
e the ascent
hreds which
ceeded, but
among the
s, some had
others were
I close to a
Etnds, which
otographer,
ad took two
th, wife and
d a hotel-
thousands,
on, "Why,
iser within
lonk'soon-
tothe end
(D. exagger-
schoola of
n from the

platform of the cans, at short intervals, the entire distance.
The Indians were catching and drying them in large quanti-
ties. Standing upon the edge of perpendicular projecting
ledges, they captured the largest and finest specimens, either
by means of hooks or scoop-nets, diess them upon the spot
and hang them up on long poles to dry in the wind and sun.
When sufficiently cured they are packed in caches made from
cedar shakes, and suspended for safe keeping among the
branches of trees from twenty to fifty feet above the groimd*
It is the opinion of those familiar with the habits of the
salmon, that not one in a thousand succeeds in depositing their
spawn, and that if hatching places were provided upon these
streams, and protected that they could scarcely be exhausted,
under proper restrictions as to catcliing them. On the morn-
ing of the loth I reached

Yale.

The head of navigation on the Fraser Biver, a town of several
himdred inhabitants and buildings situated upon a narrow
bench, surroimded by mountains of striking grandeur, rising
precipitously thousands of feet among the clouds. In the
early days of the gold discoveries in this region, Yale present-
ed those scenes of wild dissipation and reckless extrava-
gance only witnessed in great and rich mining camps.
An old miner, who was stopped from working his claim when
paying from sixteen to twenty dollars per day, because
encroaching upon the city front, told me that he seldom
cleaned up without finding gold pieces which had been
dropped frt>m the overflowing pockets of men intoxicated with
liquor, and excitement. It was nothing uncommon in those
times to spend fifty dollars in a single treat around at the
bar. It is now an orderly place, supporting churches
schools, and a weekly paper, the IrJand Sentind, 1)y Mr. M.
Hagan — ^the extreme North- Western publication upon the
Oontinent. There is still paying placer mining on the river
bench opposite, though the place derives its main support
from the construction of the 0. P. B. B., traffic with the
interior, and through travel.

The Qrand Scenery of the Cascade Region.

The grandest scenery on the Western slope of the Conti-
nent is formed by the passage of its great rivers through the
Cascade Bange. When I looked with wonder and admira-
tion upon the stupendous architecture of the mountains
through which the Columbia has worn her way by the flow
of unknown ages, I thought surely this scene can have no
parallel ; but ascending the Fraser Biver, above Tale, moun-
tains just as rugged, lofty, and precipitous, present their rocky,
furrowed sides ; a stream as deep, swift, and turbulent, rushes
headlong to the sen, between granite walls hundreds of feet in
height, above which rise, by every form of rocky embattle-
ment, tower and castle, and terraced slope which the
imagination can conceive, the snow-co^^ered peaks of the
Cascades. Qreat broad, deep paths, have been worn down the
mountain sides by the winter avalanches ; crystal streams
come bounding over their narrow rocky beds, sometimes
leaping hundreds of feet, as if impatient to join the impetuous
river below, enormous rocks stand out threateningly in the
channel, over and around which, the waters boil and foam
with an angry roar ; and thus above, and below, and on every
hand for more than fifty miles, extends this sublime exhibition
of nature.

TBIP NUMBER TWO.

From Victoria to BarkerviUe, Cariboo, via New Wtstminster,
Yale, Boston Bar, Lytton, Cook's Ferry, Ashcro/t, Cache
Creek, Clinton, Soda Creek, and Quesnede. Returning
through the Kamloops, Okanogan, SpoXlnmcheen, and
Nicola Country — 1,682 miles.

On the 9th of September, two days after returning from
Alaska, I took passage on the steamer Western Slope for
New Westminster, en route for Cariboo. Capt. Moore, com-
manding, is one of the pioneers in the steamboat navigation of

eglon.

)f the Conti-
through the
and admira-
I mountains
>y the flow
can have no
Tale, moiin-
their rocky,
lent, rushes
ds of feet in
Y embattle-
which the
laks of the
m down the
ital streams
sometimes
) impetuous
ingly in the
I and foam
nd on every
e exhibition

Veaiminster,

crofty Cache

Returning

cheen, and

roing from

Slope for

)ore, com-

vigation of

the waters of British Columbia. In 1858, at the breaking out
of the Fraser River gold excitement, he built and run the
Blue Boat as far as Yale, clearing $3,500 in five weeks.
Four years later, during the nish to the Stickeen River, he
earned, with his little boat the " Flying Dutchman," $14,000
in seventy-five days, receiving $100 per ton for carr}'ing
freight from Fort Wrangel to Olenora, a distance of 160
miles. Upon the discovery of the rich Omineca diggings in
1870, he placed two boats upon Stewaii and Tatlah Lakes,
800 miles in the interior. His next venture was gold mining
at Cassiar, where himself, and his sons John, William, and
Henry, washed out $36,000 in a little over five months. Then
he built the steamers Alexandria and Western Slope for the
East Coast trade. The latter, a staunch, powerful steamer of
850 tons burden, and good accommodations for thirty cabin
passengers, makes bi-weekly trips between Victoria and Yale,
touching at intermediate ports. At New Westminster we
transferred to the Gertrude, a swift steamer, running
on the Fraser between that place and Yale. Mr. Lipsett,
managing agent, informs me that she will probably return to
her former route on the Stickeen River, next spring. Arriving
at Yale, I proceeded at once to the office of the British
Columbia Express to secure a seat in the stage leaving for
Cariboo, 385 miles north, the following morning. As I en-
tered, Mr. Dodd, the obliging agent, gravely remarked to a
clerical gentleman who was anxious to express a small parcel,
that there was'nt room on the stage for a tooth-pick. I did
not much regret the detention, for it gave me an opportunity
to examine the most stupendous undertaking in railway build-
ing on the North American continent, the construction of

The Canadian Pacific Railroad

Through the Cascade range of mountains. My readers are
probably more or less familiar with the history of the progress
of this great iron highway across the northern portion of the
continent. The necessity for such a road through the several
Provinces of the Dominion for their better security and mor«
rapid development becoming apparent, in 1871 surveying paz<

1. 1

ties were sent out to explore the comparatively unknown region
through which, if possible, it should pass, and report upon the
most favorable route. Over $3,600,000 has been expended upon
these preliminary surveys. The location of the road east of the
Rocky Mountains being^ much the less diiBcult, the work of
construction was commenced on the Eastern section in 1874,
and 264 miles completed and in operation in 1880 ; but from
the Bocky Mountains to the Pacific coast no less than eleven
lines, aggregating upwards 10,000 miles, have been surveyed
before determining the best terminal point and route thereto.
Port Moody, at the head of Burrard Inlet, has finally been
selected as the Mainland terminus, and the Governor-General,
the Marquis of Lome, has recently stated in a pubhc speech at
Victoria, that the road will probably cross the Bocky Moun-
tains by the Kicking Horse Pass. In 1880 a contract and
agreement was made between the Dominion of Canada and
John 8. Kennedy of New York, Bichard B. Angus and James
J. Hill of St. Paul, Minn., Morton, Bose & Co. of London,
England, and John Beinach & Co. of Paris, France, forming
an incorporated company, known as the Syndicate, for the
construction, operation, and ownership of the Canadian Pacific
Bailway. By the terms of this agreement, that portion of the
railway to be constructed was divided into three sections, the
first extending from Callander Station, near the east end of
Lake Nipissing, to a junction with the Lake Superior section
then being built by the Government, was called the Eastern
section ; the second, extending from Selkirk, on the Bed
Biver, to Kamloops, at the Forks of the Thompson Biver,wa8
called the Central section, and the third, extending from
Kamloops to Port Moody at Burrard Inlet, the Western
section. The company agreed to lay out, construct*
and equip in running order, of a uniform guage of 4 ft. 8 J in.,
the Eastern and Central sections by the first day of May,
1891. The company also agreed to pay the Government the
cost, according to existing contract, for the 100 miles of road
then in course of construction from the city of Winni-
peg Westward. The Government agreed to complete
that portion of the Western section between Kamloops and
Yale by June 30th 1885, and also between Yale and Port

wn region
upou tlje
idod upon
sastofthe
I work of
I in 1874,
but from
on eleven
surveyed
s thereto,
illy been
-General,
speech at
cy Moun-
tract and
oada and
ad James
London,
I, forming
e, for the
in Pacific
ion of the
tions, the
st end of
ar section
I Eastern
the Bed
Jiver,wa8
ling from
Western
construct,
ft. 81 in.,
of May,
imeut the
s of road
f Winni-
complete
oops and
and Port

Moody «'n orboforo the "first day of May, 1891, and tht> Lake
Superior section according to contnud. T\w railway, as con-
structed under the terms of the agi-c(nn<!it, becomes the
pi-operty of the company, and pendiuj^ the c<)m])leti()n
of tlie Eastern and Central sections the possession
and right to work and run the several portions of tho
railway already consti-ucUnl, or as the same shall Ik*
completed, is given by the Govenini«'Ut to the company.
Upon the completion of the Eastern and Central sections the
Government agreed to corvey to the company (exclusive of
equipment) those poi-tions of the railway constructed, or to
be constracted by the Government, and upon comi)lution of
the remainder of the portion of railway to be constnicted by
the Government, to convey the same to the company, and
the Canadian Pacific Railway thereafter become the absolute
property of the company, which figreed to forever efficiently
maintain, work, and run the same. The Government further
agreed to grant the company a subsidy in money of
$25,000,000, and in land of 25,000,000 acres, to bo subdivided
as follows Ir—

MONEY SUBSIDY— CENTRAL SECTION.

1,350 miles.— Ist 900 miles, at $10,000 per mUe . . « 9,000,000
2nd 450 " 13,333 " .. 6,000,000

$15,000,000

EASTERN SECTION.

650 miles at $15,384 61 . . . . $10,000j000

$25,000,000

LAND SUBSIDY— CENTRAL SECTION.

Ist 900 miles at 12,500 acres per mile 11,250,000

2nd 450 " 16,666.67 acres " 7,500,000

18,750,000

EASTERN SECTION.

650 miles at 9,615.35,acre8 per mile 6,250,000

25,000,000
Upon the construction and completion of, and regular

IMI

runniii}^ of trains upon any )K)rtioii of tlu' milwiiy, hiu-Ii an
the trattic Hhould minim, not Itssw than twenty niih-H inh-ngth,
the (lovernnuMit ai^rccd to pay anil tyrant to thi* (company tlirt
HubsitUoH M.pi)lical)h' tiieroto. Th(> Oovtirnmont also j^antcil
to the company the huulw recpiiriMl for iho lojul-beil of the
railway, and for its stations, station ^roiinds, work shopn,
dock f(ionnd, and water frontajTo, buililings, yards, tstc., and
other appnrtenanees retpiired for its convenient and offeotuai
construction and operation, and ajj^roed to admit, tree of duty,
all steel rails, fish plates, spikes, bolts, nuts, wire, timber, and
all material for bridjj;es to Xw us<(l in the orij^nal constniction
of the railway and of a telegraph line in connection therewith.
The

Company's Land ttrant.

Comprises every alteniate section of 640 acres, extending
ba<!k twonty-finir miles deep on each side of the railway from
Winnpj'g to Jftsper House, and where such sections (the
uneven numbered) are nov fairly fit for settlement on account
of the prevalence t)f lakes and water stretches, the deficiency
thereby caused to make up the 25,000,000 acres, may bo
selected by the company from the tract known as the fertile
belt lying between jjarallels 49 and 37 degi-ees of North lati-
tude or elsewhere, at the option of the company, of alternate
sections extending back twenty-four miles deep on each side
of any branch line, or line of railway by tliem located. The
company may also, with the consent of the. Government,
select any lands in the North- West Territory not taken up to
supply 8ui;h deficiency. The company have the right, from
time to time, to lay out, construct, equip, maintain, and
work branch lines of railway from any point or points within
the territoiy of the Dominion. It was farther agreed by the
Dominion Parliament that for the period of twenty years no
railway should be constructed South of the Canadian Pacific
Railway, except such line as shall rm South- West or to the
Westward of South- West, nor to within fifteen miles of lati-
tude foi-ty-nine degrees, and that all stations, and station
grounds, workshops, buildings; yards, and other property,
rolling stock, and appurtenances required and used for the

wm^

♦IT

ooimtrut'tion iiuil working tlicrcot', hikI thfciipitHl stock of tl>t>
voiupativ shiiU Ixi foi'DVc^'frcu tVoiii taxiitioii Ity tli<> ])(>iiiiiiioii,
or by any I'roviiuu) luTt'iifhT to \w «'Htiil>lisln(l, or liy iiny
Miinicipul Corporiitioii tlirn'iii, and tlit> Imuls of tli* coiiipuiiy
in th«( North- Went Tt'i-ritoiy, until tli>y uni j-ithrr sold or oc-
taipiod, shall also he fi-(!<> fioni siich taxation for twunty ycai'M
aftiir the grant thereof from the Crown.

The Great Work of Building the Railway Through
the Cascade Mountains.

Soon after the conHuniution of the agreement, Mr. A. On-
<1erdonk, an (sxperienced railroad huilder, became the man-
aging eontrae.tor fen* thtt construction of that portion of the
Westeni division extending from Port Moody toSavonas Ftirry,
u distiuice uf two luuab'ed and twelve miles, ably
assisted by E. G. Tilton, Su])erintendent and Chief
Enginer, John P. Bacon, Chief C(<mmihsarry, Geo. F. Kyle,
Assistant-Superintendent, and other gentlemen. It presented
greater diiSculties than have ever been overcome in railway
building. The Union and Central Pacific antjl other lines
have gone uver the mountains by gradual ascents, but no such
way of climbing the Cascades was possible, and the wonder-
ful uudertakmg of running tUromjk them parallel with the great
canyon of the Eraser, wos determined upon. For nearly
sixty miles from Yale to Ly tton, the river has cut through this
lofty range, thousands of feet below the summits. Moun-
tain spurs of granite rock, with perpendicular faces hundreds
of feet in height, project at short intervals along the entire
passage. Between them are deep lateral gorges, canyons and
plunging cataracts. On this sixty miles of tunnels rock '-vork
and biidges, tlie greater porticm of Mr. Onderdonk's con-
struction army of 7,000 men have been engaged sirtcf. 1880'
The loud roar of enormous discharges of giant powder has
almost constantly reverberated among the mountains. Fifteen
tunnels have been bored, one 1,600 feet in length, and mil-
lions of tons of rock blasted and rolled with the noise of on
avalanche into the rushing boilicg Eraser; workmen have
been suspended by ropes hundreds of feet down the perpcn-

tlicailnr HuloM of t\w iiioutitiiinH t.(» MiiHt ii foot ImUl; HUpplioH
liiivc Im'<>ii packtMl ill ii|miii tlitt hiirkH of inuIi'H iiiiil liorHrM,
ovrr tiiiilM wliKiT tln' IiidiiiiiH were iircUHtoiiK'tl lo uho liiddHrH,
Hiid Ituildiiig iimtrrialH liiiid«>d u|Miti th<< oppoHitc Ituiik of tlio
river at an oiioniiouH cxpciiHiv loid cM'oHKrd in Indiiiti cniiods.
It is UHtitnatrd tliat ]M)i'ti(iiiH of thin work 1ihv«' ctint f'JOO.CXM)
to tli«> mile. Ill iul(titioii to oth«>r traiiHportiitioii chnr^eH, Mr.
Ouderdonk |)ays #10 for every ton of liiM freight puHsiiig over
the Yale-(^ari)M)(> Wagon Road, (excepting for the prodmtionK
of the Provim?©.

Ah the work progroHHed tlie ooHt ni tratiKportrttion l»y Hiufh
nieaiu; iiuTeiiHed until Mr. Onderdoiik d(>termini>d t<» tr}' and
ran aHt<Miin(T tlir«Mig)i the (Irand C!anyon of the FriiHer to
tho navigable waters above to supply the advaiure cam^tH.
For this purpose he huilt the steamer Skuzzy. Then eame
the ditHculty of finding a (captain able and willing to take her
through. One after another went up and looked at the little
boat, then at the awful canyon, the rushing river and the swift
foaming rapids, and turned back, either pronouncting the
ascent impossible or refusing to undertake it. Finally Cap-
tains S. II. and David Smith, brothers, were sent for, both
well known for their remarkAl)le feats of stoamboating on the
upper waters of the Columbia. The former ran the steamer
Shoshone 1,000 miles down the Snake River through the
Blue Mountains — the only l)oat which evcsr did, or probably
ever will, nuike the perilous passage. He also run a steamer
safely over the falls of Willamette at Oregon City. He said
he could take the Skuzzy up, and provided with a crew of
seventeen men, including J. W. Burse, a skilful engineer, with
a steam winch and capstain and several great hawsers, began
the ascent. At the end of Po,en days I found them just
below Hell Gate, having lined safely through the roaring
Black Canyon, through which the pent up waters rush like a
mill-race at 20 miles an hour. Returning from my journey
in the interior, I had the pleasure of congratulating the cap-
tains upon the succeRsful accomplishment of the undertaking,
and of seeing the Skuzzy start from Boston Bar with her
first load of freight. Captain Smith said the hardest tug of
war was at China Riffle, where, in addition to the engines, the

Htfuin winch, aiol I'l int'ii at tlir (■a|)Htiiiii, ii forc)> of ir>()('lii.
r.iiMH'ii ii|)<)ii II lliinl liiif wiih i'<'i(iiit-ril t<> pull hor omt! The
ciiptaiiiH rncitiviMl f'i.'ioO for tlu'ir work. It woiiM fill (|iiit<) a
VMhinii< to (li'Mcrilxt in dt'tail <'vt>ntii«- tiion> iinpoitaiit portioiiH
of Mr. < )iHlt'r(lonk'>' ^rcat work. All of tlu^ initiicMHt* ipianti-
tit'H of^iaiit powder iiHed iw niaiiiifiietureil on tin) line between
Emory and Yale. Throuvjh tho fav(»r of tho SiiperintenthditH
— MeKsrn, Daniel Ashworth and IJ. (). OleHen I way per-
mitted to examine the whole of the intereKtiiif^ proeeHH. The
tund works eontaiiied 2 vitriol chandjers, made of IcMid, air
tight, the hir^^est 02 feet lonj^, 22 feet wid«s and 20 f»!et high ;
24 ghiHH condeiiHerH for holding Hulphurie acid nearly an larg.t
aH harrelH, ccmting from $H0 to $40 each; 24 great earthen
j'lrH for nitric acid, and nl)ont 200 tons of brimstone from
Japan, and 00 tonH of nitrate of Hoda from Chile. At the
nitro-glycerine and giant cartridge works a force of 10 men
were manufacturing the terrihh* t^x[)loHives at the rate of 1200
lbs. a day. It reciuires about two hours to make th«) powd(>r
after the suli-huric and nitric^ acids and the sweet glycerine
oil and the charcoal have been propannl. The cartridge cases
are made from strong paper dipped i/i hot paiatiine and wax,
and are fntm |to 1 inchin diameter — 118 Wviighing, when filled,
about SO lbs.

The Yale-Cariboo Wae^on Road,

Another great higliway, runs ]'<arullel with the Canadian
Pacific Railway through the Cascade Mountains on the oppo-
site, or south side of the Fraser. It was built by the Colonial
Govemmtmt, in 1862, at a cost of 1300,000 to aceommo.
date the great rush to the wonderftilly rich gold fields of
Cariboo, and the travel and trafio resulting therefrom. Be-
ginning at Yale it crosses tho Fraser twelve miles above, over
the Alexander wire siispension bridge, a fine structiue erected
by Hon. Joseph W. Trutch, in 1863, at a cost of $42,000. From
thence it follows up the left bank of the river to Lytton, then
along the Thompson to Cook's Ferry, which it crosses on
Spenoe's Bridge up the Buonaparte, through the Green Tim-
ber forests, down the San Jose, through the beautiful Lake
La Hache country; again along the Fraser, across the Que»

-"«•;

nelle then up tlie famous Lifjhtning Creek into the heart of the
mountains and of the richest mining camp 400 miles from
Yale, 5,000 feet above the level of the sea. Over the steep
mouncain spiu's, and across the wild eany«ms— 62 bridges in
25 miles — along the brink of frowning precipices thousands of
feet above the river, and 3,000 feet below the summits, it winds
through the Cascade Range.

Slides, avalanches, and floods frequently destroy portions
of it, $39,000 having been expended for repairs upon the first
110 miles in 1882. During the great flood of last June the
water rose within four feet of the Suspension Bridge, which
stands 88 foet above low water mark. Mr. Black, who has
charge of the first section of the road, once saw an avalanche
sweep entirely across the river, above Hell Gate, onto the
mountain on the opposite side. He expended, one year,
$2,500 in dealing the snow from the first twenty-five miles of
the road. I walked over it by day and rode over it by night,
and what, with the grandeur of the mountains and canyons,
the two great highwa3's which traverse them — only separated
by the roaring river — the Indian villages and burying grounds,
the old placer diggings, the tents of an array of Chinese rail-
way laborers, the long processions of great freight wagons
drawn by from twelve to sixteen cattle or mides, and hundreds
of pack animals filing by, driven by Indians, carrying sup-
plies into the interior, it was a journey of exceeding interest-
At several poiuts there were wayside inns, orchards, gardens,
and meadows. Mr. H. B. Dart, of Boston Bar, and Thos. Ben-
ten, of Kanaka Bar, showed me apple, pear, and plum trees
bending under their burdens of handsome fioiit.

Lytton.

Situated on the left bank of the Fraser, just below the mouth
of the Thompson, fifty-seven miles from Yale, is the first
place reached after crossing the divide, and the next largest
in the interior to Barkerville. Looking at the bare, brown,
rocky foothills surrounding, one wonders what can support
its score of business houses, hotels, and shops, and two
hundred residents. It comes fi'om various sources, the rich
LiUooet country on the river above, railway construction,

9mm

eart of tho
niles from
tho steep
bridges in
lOUsaiitls t)f
its, it wiiids

y portions
)n the first
,t June the
ige, which
i, wlio has

avalanche
, onto the

one year,
ve miles of
t by night,
1 canyons,
r separated
ig grounds,
linese rail-
;ht wagons
i hundreds
Tying sup-
ng interest'
s, gardens,
Thos. Ben-
plum trees

• the mouth
is the first
text largest
ire, brown,
an support
, and two
!S, the rich
mstruction,

through travel and traffic, and the neighboring Indians. Mr.
Seward and Thos. Earl have the most extensive and valuable
improved ranches in this neighborhood, each containing fine
orchards of apples, pears, cherries, plums, etc. Mr. Earl
says he gathered $100 worth of apples from one tree this
season, and one apple whi(!h weighed one pound and a
quarter. Here Mr. Patrick Killroy, the (eldest, and most ex-
tensive resident butcher in the interior, told me that he had
killed, two, five, and six-year old bunch grass fed steers, which
weighed, dressed, respectively, 915, 1,336, and 1,400 pounds,
and showed me the kidney of an ox weighing 69 ^iouuds.
Beyond Nacomin, near

Cook's Ferry or Spence's Bridge,

The road crosses the great mud slide, or moving mountaiiij
which a raildroad engineer said was sliding toward the river
at the fate of eight feet a year. How to build a railway over
this changing base, is a problem the engineers are trying to
solve. I am well acquainted with Mortimer Cook, who
immortalized himself, and made a fortune here, in the days
when Cariboo was rolling out her fabulous wealth, by ferrying
over the armies of gold hunters rushing northward. A man
of remarkable energy and exceptional ability, he rode into this
country poor, on a mule, and out of it in good style, a few
years later, worth his thousands, added to them by successful
operations in the West, invested all in California, flourished,
became banker and Mayor of the most beautiful city on the
Southern coast, and then, in the general financial crash of
1877, turned everything over to his creditors, like a man. The
place is now quite a little village, and being situated at the en-
trance to the Nicola country, will always prosper. Mr. John
Murray, an old time resident, owns a fine propei-ty and ranch
here, upon which, in addition to excellent grains, vegetables,
apples, cherries, plums, and berries, he has grown, this
season, grapes, which, he says, the Marquis of Lome pro*
nouuced equal to any raised in the Dominion. Crossing the
Thompson Biver, on Spence's Bridge, I proceeded thirty miles
to Cache Creek, past Oregon Jack's, and through

Ashcroft,

Lieutenant-Governor Cornwall's splendid estate. The moun-
tain valleys to the Westward contain excellent summer stock
ranges, and tin; rolling river slopes, considerable tracts of
arable land, producing large crops by irrigation. The
nianagt^r of tlie Governor's place told me that they raised
19,500 pounds of wheat fi-om six acres, or over fifty bushels
j)er acre, and that thirty-three bushels is their average yield.
A few miles beyond, Antoine Minaberriet owns a fine ranch of
2,030 acres, with 400 improved, fourteen miles of irrigating
ditches, where he has made a fortune by stock-raising. He
sold 14,000 woi-th of cattle last year, and has 900 now on the
range. Between his place and

Cache Creek

I came near stepping on a rattlesnake, which gave the alarm
just in time to enable me to jump out of reach of its
poisonous fangs. Procuring a sharp stone, and approaching
as near as prudent, by a lucky throw I nearly severed its
venemous head. It was about three feet in length, with six
rattles. They are not numerous, being seldom seen in the
course of ordiaary travel. Cache Creek is situated on the
Buonaparte, about six miles from the Thompson River. I rode
through this rich, pleasant valley, with Mr. Thaddeus Harper,
who owns 25,000 acres of land, large bands of cattle and
blooded horses, improved farms, gold mines, flour and saw-
mills, town sites, etc. It contains about 2,500 acres of very
rich soil, principally owned by Harper, Wilson, Van Volken-
burgh, and Sanford. Stopping a moment, where wheat
threshing was in progress,! found tl v. berry to be exceptional-
ly large and white. W/ien near the Thompson River, the
proposed site for the junction of the Yale-Cariboo Wagon
Road with the C. P. R. R., was pointed out. Returning to
Cache Creek, I rode 275 miles fiirther North to Barkerville
upon the e::cellent stage of the

British Columbia Express Co.

Their line running the Entire length of the great
Yale-Cariboo Wagon Road, first established as Bar-

lie moun-
ner stock
tracts of
m. The
ley raised
y bushels
ige yield.
I ranch of
irrigating
ling. He
ow on the

;he alarm
ill of its
proaching
ivered its
I, with six
3en in the
d on the
jr. I rode
s Harper,
3uttle and
and saw-
38 of very
Q Volken-
sre wheat
ceptional-
River, the
>o Wagon
luming to
arkerville

>he great
as Bar-

nard's Express in 1860, was incorporated as the British
Columbia Express Company in 1878, Mr. Frank S. Barnard,
of Victoria, being its managing agent. Horses and men
were used at first for its traffic over the rough and difficult
mountain trails. At Boston Bar, I was told about two Indians
who once sought refuge at an inn, near the Suspension
Bridge, after having been covered up and roughly handled
by an avalanche. As they were leaving, it was noticed that
they shouldered heavily weighted sacks. Upon enquiry, it wiis
found that they were each carrying eighty pounds of gold
dust for the company, which they safely delivered to Mr.
Dodd, its agent at Yale. But stages were substituted in 1865,
and for eighteen years it has been one of the best equipped,
and managed stage Unes upon the Pacific coast. It is stocked
with splendid T.orses raised by Hon. F. J. Barnard, M. P.,
the largest owner in the company, upon his extensive horse
ranch in the Okanagan country. These spirited animals
are frequently hitched up, wild from the range, ahead of
trained ones, and though dashing away at fall gallop,
up and and down hills for miles, over the most fright-
ful mountain roads, are so skillfully managed by Tingley, Tait,
Bates, and Moffit, careful and experienced drivers, that
accidents seldom occur.

A ride of twenty-six miles in a North-wrsterly direction,
fourteen up the valley of the Buonaparte Creek, lightly wooded
with Cottonwood and poplar, and containing about a <;housand
acres of rich arable bottoms, exclusive of meadows, and
thence across Hat Creek along the shores of beautiful lakes
golden bordered with the autumn foliage of the poplar and
vine maple, brings us to

Clinton.

It is a pleasant village of about one hundred inhabitants,
two good inns, several stores and shops, situated at the junc-
tion of the old Harrison Biver, Tjillooet, with the Yale-Curiboo
road. Within a radius of thirty miles there are summer
stock ranges of considerable extent, especially in the Green
Lake country and Cut-oflf Valley, and arable lands producing
annually about 30,000 bushels of wheat and other grains.

Late and early frosts frequently cut short the root and vege-
table crops, though this season's yield was most abundant.
Mr. Foster, the leading merchant of this secticm, showed me
a potato grown near town which weighed two and three-
quarters lbs. From twenty-five to thirty thousand dollars'
worth of gold dust is sluiced out yeariy by Chinamen and
Indians along the Fraser and tributary streams within sixty
miles. The Big Slide quartz lode, owned by Mr. F. W.
Foster, is reported immensely rich, assaying from 140 to $100
per ton. About $20,000 worth of furs are purchased here
annually, principally beaver. A small rapid mountain stream
flows through the village into the Buonaparte. A few years
ago it was stocked with trout, and so rapidly have they in-
creased that a fellow passenger, Mr. Andrew Gray of Victoria,
brought in forty splendid specimens after axi absence not ex-
ceeding two hours. For fifty miles beyond Clinton, we pur-
sued a North-easterly course over a rocky surfaced mountain
divide between the Fraser and the Thompson, lightly w(X)ded.
with black pine, spruce and tamarack, known as the Green
Timber. Near the summit, at an elevation of 3,660 feet, we
pass within sight of the Great Chasm, a remarkable rent in
the mountain nearly a thousand feet in depth, perpendicular
walled, with two lakelets gleaming among the pines at the
bottom. At Bridge Creek there is a pleasant prairie opening
of six or seven hundred acres with meadows bordering, owned
by Mr. Hamilton, and used for dairying purposes. Soon we
are following down the Salmon and San Jose Rivers through

The Beautiful Lake La Hache Country.

It embraces an extensive scope of excellent summer stock
ranges only partly occupied. The winters are very severe but
dry, and the snow fall moderate. At Lake La Hache, a
charming sheet of water, scores of trout were seen jumping
out their full length. A son of Mr. Archibald MoKinley, a
former factor of the Hudson Bay Company, who owns a large
stock ranch here, said that they could be caught by the boat
load. On we whirl, at a seven-mile trot, through poplar open-
ings interspersed with small lakes, bordered by hay meadows.
At the head of Williams Lake we leave two of our passen-

ind vege-
ibundaut.
owed me
ad three-
dollars'
kiuen and
.bin sixty
r. F. W.
10 to $100
ised here
in Htream
ew years

they in-
' Victoria,
e not ex-
,, we pur-
mountain
ly w(X)ded.
;he Green
feet, we
>le rent in
pendicuiar
les at the
ie opening
j9g, owned

Soon we
rs through

try.

imer stock
severe but
Haohe, a
in jumping
jKinley, a
msalai^e
y the boat
>plar open-
' meadows,
ur passen-

gers, Sister Mary Clement and companion, of the St. Joseph
Mission. En route from Kamloops with a settler of that sec-
tion, his horses took fright, threw him out, and dashed away
at full run with the Sisters for over three miles at the im-
minent peril of their Uvea With remarkable presence of
mind they seized the reins, sat down on the bottom of the
wagon and held on for dear life. At length, but not until the
horses had b^an to slacken their speed ttova exhaustion, a
horseman, who had witnessed the runaway from a distance,
dashed up to the rescue. At the 150-mile House w;e stopped
for a late supper, fresh horses, and a few hours' rest.

A fire broke out in the kitchen of the hotel just as we
had got fairly stowed away in a far off comer of the second
story, and sound asleep. I awoke first and arousing my
bed-fellow, Mr. Gray, we jumped into our clothes double-quick
and explored our way through a narrow, smoky passage down
stairs. By hard work the flames were extinguished, but there
was no more sleep that night. Mr. Gavin Hamilton, for a
long time an agent of the Hudson Bay Company at their ex-
treme North-western posts, owns in company vnthMr. Griffin,
besides the hotel, a large ranch, a store, flour mill &c. They
estimate that 500,000 lbs of grain are raised in the neighbor-
hood. A trail leads sixty miles North-east to the Forks of
Quesnelle and from thence to the neighbouring mining camps.

A rapid ride of 28 miles the following morning brought
us to

Soda Greek,

A small town situated on the left bank of the Fraser at the
mouth of the creek of that name. Mr. Robert McLeese, M.
P.P., and Mr. P. C. Dnnlevy, are the principal traders. The
latter presented me with ft potato gnMm near Mud Lake,
which weighed three pounds nine ounces. Here we made
connection with the steamer Victoria, owned by Mr. McLeesei
which during the Summer months runs to Quesnelle, about
sixty miles above, at present the extreme North-western
steamboating upon the Continent. Capt. Lane, commanding^
is a grandson of Gen. Jo. Lane, of Oregon, and well-known
in ooDTieotion with daring steamboat exploits. The naviga-

ble stretch of the Fraser abounds in subjects of interest.
Numerous parties of Chinamen were seen placer mining on
the bars and benches. Twenty miles out we pass Alexandria,
an old Fort of the Hudson Bay Company, but now aban-
doned, and a few miles beyond, the well-known Austi'ahan
and Bohanan Banches, the most extensive grain forms in
Northern British Columbia, raising upwards of 400,000
pounds of wheat and oats yearly, and considerable quantities
of apples, plums and other fruits. Away to the Westward
over the terraced pine and poplar wooded blufiis lies the

Ghilcotin Country

Which embraces several hundred thousand acres of rolling
prairie, undulating, hghtly timbered forest plateaus, as yet
unocctipied except by a few Indians, and by bands of cattle
in Summer. Steaming slowly up the rapid stream, past
Castle Bock, Cottonwood Canyon and the Pyramids, at 'five
o'clock, p. M., the 22nd, we arrive at

duesnelle.

The town is very pleasantly situated on the left bank of the
Fraser, at the mouth of the Quesnelle, and contains about
fifty white inhabitants, fifty buildings, two hotels, several
i^tores, shops, &c. The Hudson Bay Co., J. B. Skinner, J.
C. F., and the firm of Beed & Hudson, carry large stocks
of merchandise and do an extensive ti'ade. The Occidental
Hotel, Mr. John McLean, proprietor, is one of the best in the
upper country. Here we resume our joiuney by stage, and
b«^fore dayli^t, the 23rd, are on the home stretch for

.The Gold Fielcls of Cariboo.

Twenty-two years ago the advance of the bold and hardy
prospectors, following up the rich diggings of th« lower
Fraser, penetrated as far north as the Forks of the Quesnelle,
Here Eeithley struck it rich upon the creek of that name, and
then followed in rapid succession those remarkable discov-
eries which have made Cariboo so famous in the history of
gold mining. Antler Creek in 1860 and Williams, Lightning,

interest,
ning on
xandria,
w aban-
asti'alian
fanuH in
400,000
uautities
iTestward
the

>f rolling
8, as yet
of cattle
am, past
i, at "five

ik of the
ins about
, several
sinner, J.
ge stocks
)ccidental
)est in the
tage, and
or

nd hardy
bhe lower
^esnelle,
name, and
le discov-
history of
[lightning,

Lowhee, Grouse, Mosquito, Sugar, Harvey, Cuuninghaui,
Nelson, Bums, and Jack of Clubs, in 1861, and then StoutH
Conklings, McColloms, Beigs, Stevensons, ChiBholm, Van-
Winkle, Last Chance and Davis Gulches in 1862, poured out
their long hidden treasures by the million. The reports of
their wonderful wealth spread like wild tire, and miners
rushed in by the thousands from all parts of the world.
Victoria was like the encampment of an army of 20,000 men,
and Yale of 5,000 more. At that time the whole of this im-
mense interior region was an almost unknown wilderness,
without roads, and untrodden except by the native Indian
tribes and the yearly pack trains of the Hudson Bay Com-
pany. Over the 400 miles from Yale to Cariboo, over the
steep and perilous Cascades flocked the great eager throng,
thousands on foot, packing their blankets and provisions,
fording rivers, wading deep snows, sleeping on the ground,
enduring untold hardships by cold and heat, hunger and
fatigue, to reach the shining goal.

The ru^ed mountains of Cariboo, became a beehive of
miners exploring its rivers and creeks. Never were gold-
seekers more liberally rewarded. Gold was found in unpre-
cedented quantities. Three hundred and forty ounces were
taken out by drifting from one set about eight feet by three
and a-half feet square in the Sawmill claim, originally taken
up by Hon. R. Beaven, the present Premier of the Province,
and his associates, Messrs. B. J. Kennedy and Silas James,
and a big, broad-shouldered German named Diller cleaned
up one night with 102 lbs. gold as the result of his day's
work ! The a^regate yield of these wonderful deposits can
never be known. Men who reached the diggings penniless,
hungry and ragged, left them again in a short time with a
mule load of gold dust. For several years from 1861 to 1876,
their annual product is estimated to have ranged from two to
five million dollars, maintaining since 1872 a yearly average
of about one and a half million. But of the millions realized
immense sums were absorbed by the enormous expense of
living and conducting mining operations. The costs of trans-
portation alone were so great that strong men earned from
$25 and upwards a day packing in supplies upon their baoks,

ProviHioDB sold at almost incredible prices; flour from $1.50
to $2 per lb., meats from |1 to $1.50, and salt, $1 per lb. I have
met an editor, Mr. Hollo way, who published a paper in Bar-
korville in those days, who received $1 per copy for a five-
oolumu sheet. The postage on a lettei from Victoria
to the mines was $1. Building materials were correspond-
ingly high, lumber, $250 per thousand, nails, $1 per lb., &o.

As in all great mining camps comparatively few carried
their riches away with them. Hundreds made their tens of
thousands, and sank them again in unsuccessful efforts to find
a real bonanza. Others, bewildered by their suddenly acquired
wealth, spent it as freely as it' they were in possession of
the philosopher's stone which converts everything it touches
into gold. I have heard of such a miner who went into a
public house in Victoria, and without provocation, out of a
spirit of reckless extravagance, merely to show his contempt for
money, dashed a handfiill of twenty dollar gold pieces through
a costly mirror and then coolly piled them up before the
astonished landlord and walked away. Crossing the Cotton-
wood and ascending the mountains alon^; Lightning Creek,
through the villages of Stanley and Richfield, by ten o'clock
we were rattling down the famous Williams Creek into

Barkerville.

It is one of the most interesting collections of human habita-
tions ever piled together by the accidents of flood and the
fortunes and misfortunes of a great mining camp. Built in
the narrow bed of Williams Creek it has been so frequently
submerged by the tailings swept down from the hydraulic
mines above, that it now stands upon cribs of logs from
fifteen to twenty feet above the original foundation. When
the floods break loose, the inhabitants man their jackscrews
and raise their respective buildings, each according to his
views of the impending danger. As a result the sidewalks of
the town are a succession of up and down stairs from one end
to the other, with occasional cross walks elevated like suspen-
sion bridges. Perfect vigilance and sobriety is required to
navigate these streets in broad daylight, which may in some
measure account for the temperance habits of the people.

rom $1.5U
b. I have
ir in Bar-
for a five-

Victoriu
rrespond-
Ib., &c.
)w carried

tens of

rts to find

acquired

eH6ion of

touches
at into a
,out of a
itenipt for
)8 through
)efore the
ke Cotton-
ig Creek,
en o'clock
nto

m habita-
1 and the
Built in
frequently
hydraulic
logs from
n. When
ackscrews
ing to his
lewalks of
m one end
ke suspen-
quired to
Y in some
leople.

From Cache Creek to KanUoopf and through the North and
South Thompson, Ohinngan, Spallnnu'he*n and Nicola
Country.

Returning to Ca(;he Creek, Leighton's stage which makes
weekly trips to the head of Okanaf n Lake via Savona's
f'erry and Kamloops, had left the day previous. I
therefore started out on foot six miles up the Cache Creek,
Valley, previously discribed, and then along the right bank
of the Thompson, 18 miles further to

Savona's Ferry

At the foot of Kamloops Lake. This portion of the Valley of
the Thomi)son is about 4 miles in width from foothill to foot-
hill, and consist mainly of rolling grazing lauds. Bands of
cattle and horses were seen feeding in all directions, though
most of the stock ranges in the mountain valleys from spring
imtil the beginning of winter. Harper, Graves, Willson,
Stewart, Sanford, Hoar, Uren, Barnes, Pinney, Goten>
Craig and Semlin, are the principal stock raisers and
farmers in this section. Calling at the first house reached
in the village at the ferry, I found it to be the pleasan)
home of Mr. James Leighton, post master, telegi'aph
operator and proprietor of the Kamloops stage line. His
father-in-law, Mr. Uren, keeps a good hotel close by, and
is also the owner of a 370-acre ranch, 500 head of cattle
and fifty horses. He showed me fine specimens of pump-
kins, vegetables and fruits grown on his farm and in the
neighborhood. Mr. John Jane has a store here, Mr. James
Uren a blacksmith shop and James Newland the ferry. At
Savona's Ferry is the beginning of 140 miles of steamboat
navigation upon the Thompson and through a succesion of
lakes, the Kamloops, Little Shuswap and Shuswap Lakes,
extending to Spallumcheen — 25 miles from the moutli of the
river of that name and within 19^ miles of the head of Like
Okanagan. Three steamers, hhe Peerless, Capt. Tackabery,
The Lady Dufferin and Spallumv'*'heen, are ininning'upon these
waters during uboui 7 mouths (»f the year, from April to

Novombor, wlioriover the traffiti rtHjuires. All of them wort'
lip the country aiul the time of their return being ()uit<-
uncertain, on the 28th I walked thirty miles furtlier to
Karaloops. The wagon i'()ad, a good one, follows the Houth
Hhore of KamloopH Lake for a Hh«)rt diHtance and then turuH
away through a rolling mountainous country, lightly timbered
with pine along the summits, with bunoh grass on the foot-
hills, and wormwood ui>ou the lower sU>peH. There are occa-
sional small lakes, some of them strongly impregnated with
alkali. There are but three or four ranches on this road —
Roper's, of a thousand acres being the most extensive. He
has about a thousand head of cattle, and an orchard of apples,
pears, plums, cherries, &c., which has produced 12,000 pounds
of fruit this season. Indian com reaches maturity here, and
melons and tomatoes are gi'own without difficulty.

Kamloops

Situated at the forks of the North and South Thompson is
one of the most impoi-tant places iu the oust Cascade region.
It commands the trade of a considerable portion of the
richest grazing and agricultural sections of the Province, the
Nicola, Kamloops, Spallumcheen and Okanagan country.
The Kamloops distiict, which lies between the Gold Range of
mountains on the east and Savona's Feny on the west, the
north end of Shuswap Lake on the north and Okanagan
Lake on the south, contained, by the returns of 1881, 8,136
homed cattle, 1 ,108 horses, and 2,000 sheep. About 3,000 acres
of land were under cultivation, the average yield per acre
being as follows : — Wheat, 1,300 lbs., barley, 1,800 lbs., oats,
1,500 lbs., peas 2,000, potatoes 1,800, turnips 18,000 and
hay 2,000 lbs. The largest stock raisers and farmers are
J. B. Graves, Thoddeus Harper, Bennett & Lumby, Victor
Guillaume, W. J. Roper, Duck & Piingle, Wm. Jones, Hugh
Morton, John Peterson, L. Campbell, Thomas Sullivan,
Thomas Roper, Ed. Roberts, "Wm. Fortune, W. J. Howe, A.
J. Kirkpatrick, Peter Frazer, James Steele, Herman Wich-
ers, Alexander Fortune, Mathew Hutchison, George Lynn and
John Edwards. Kamloops was first occupied by the Hudson
Bay Company, their old fort still standing on the right

hem wore
tiug ({uiU>
fiirther to

i\w HOUtlt

huu turnH

y timbered

the foot-

i are occrt-

ated with

lis road —

sivo. He

of apples,

•00 poundH

here, and

ompHon IS
ide region,
on of the
)viuce, the
cout'try.
i\ Range of
e west, the

Okonagau
1881, 8,136
3,000 acres
i per acre
I lbs., oats,
8,000 and
inners are
by, Victor
ues, Hugh
I Sullivan,
. Howe, A.
lan Wich-

Lynn and
xe Hudson

the right

bank of tlit> river opposite. In those days the Indiuii tribes
weri' frequently at war with ea<'h other, and the servants of
the eom|)any.i1(ad ^t<vkeep a shar]> h>ok out for thrir s«'alpH.
Itosunu Hhubert,, duugtiter' of Augustus niifl llosana Shu*
b»'rt, who erpijsed, th»> inountains fruni Winnjpeg, in 1802^

was
con

I 1h(! firs), .wliiti), eijji(jl' lM')i-H fn the place. , 'j^he , t(f\vii n<)w
tainit abpjit 4p^whji,teVc«>deiits,ekclusiv«> o( Ini^jan's, a good

and hanidss uiaker^ Ihe nqtir and saw q^ill,<)(^.tne bhuswap
Millit)g,.r'0];n]>uuy is located Tiere, James ]y(cJutoK|iinianatf(<ir.
It has d.eaiyudty for fitiy barrels' of ^flour d.'flly.tvud manufac-
tures the v,arioup graues of rotigh and dressed lumber.' I an»
indebted ,i',) Mr, '^i^nstall. ' Groveniinent Agen^ , ai. Kaniliiops
for'inucb valq^^ble inlbiTuation coucerniiig ,tl\pt,, section. ' '

A Ride ,frq^^;^k:4hll60pS through' tj?|^^;'^>JbHh
'"••'' Thompson Settreirifefit;-" ••" -i»»i • lv-^

Tlie Thoiupspf} jRjypr, the princip»u. tnlmta^y, qf,%t? Fyaser,
forks VtKanilui^p,tii t|^^^ north wan'eh heddipg-i)uay|,l^ititude
53 betv«fu th^ (^jv^^ye.jliver and the iiortii for^ xj^, tjjp pue^s-
nelle^ , It itblj^fivigal^e f<,u' lig^t draught steam^r^^to^ [^e^Vy^e.
a distance of,,al)9^t^,]l,25^iiles from Etuulo()|^8.f ,, O^ieo^ the
most 'ftv.vorei^.ri^i^ea of.^thOjCapadiali Piun^c Iia\^-(/|id (follows
up thifi 8treairt.l\y,^ jsasy grade •<!ro9aing,tUe.,B^c}iy ]!|Ioun.-
tains UiMiugU |tl\e Yellow Head or Leather. Pft^, ,, It flows lie-
tween mouut;i^^us^ ^^cjiu tjii-ee thou8and..to jS^x thoui^anq
feet in. he jgjjt,.. generally sparsely wo^jded, >yit^^|,^r, pine
and cedar^itUougheontaii^j^ cxciellen^:bnncl)^-pMs r^inges of
considerable extent. Tlie rolling foot hills are also cov^eryc^
with bunch grass and sivge, a fine quality known here as
wormwood'prevailing on tKeloV^V aitflaa aiul bunches. Cotton-
wockI, althy^.ttud birch gtows along the immediate river banks.
The vaUey is -froni one t^jtwcynji^tj-a-hal^ miles in width, and
though specially, J, ^tljapted f'>r grazing pur|)OHies contains
Hevei'aV-thQWsp.n^ jicres jOf ri.h farming lun^St. ,1]^e^^yoil is
'variable— 7gi5*kv^;l^^^uy|)^ the the bencL)e4t„,)vi^jf^^fiue deeji

nlhiviid oil tlu> liottoin. The Kiiiiil()n|)M [iidiiin r«>Hoiviitioii
of altoiit 2'J,000 aon'H ut tlH> ForkH of thr Thoinpwdi coiii-
prineH nliont 2,500 lUTt'H of itH iM'Ht iiriiMo IuikIh. T1u» valley
liaH Imm'ii (M'ciipiod by tlu> wliitt'H Hiiim iHfiS and contaiiiH at
l»iVHt»nt t«'n wttlrrH— Mc'IvorH, EdwardH, Hiiltivaii and Kaii-
ouflf, on tli«) h'ft bank ami Potcli, McQiiuen, Gordon, Mi'Auly
and Jam(>Hoii, on tlu* ri^lit bank. Thoy arc engaged princi-
pidly in raiHiiig rattle, IiorHcR and Iio^h, their ag^^regate Htofk
amounting to about 1,100 head. Sullivan and Edwards have
between four and five liundriHl head each. Mr. EdwardH
farniH upwards of 200 aereH of riidi bottom land. HIh wheat
yields on an average twenty-five buHlH^ls per acre. Thert) in
room for a few more Hcttlers in this valley. Mr. Sullivan nays
there are good (tattle ranges in the mountain vnlUiys as yet
almost untouched. The stock-supportiiig cnpatuty of this
region must, however, be based upon the extent of the winter
feud. This is greater than I had supposed, and sufficient "by
the cultivation of tame grasses in the meadows to carry a
large number of cattle throiigh the severest winters. On the
30th of September, furnished with a good horse by Mr. Tait
of the Hudson Bay Company, I rode rapidly over a j)rotty
good trail to Jameson's ranch, 17 vaWm from Kamloops on
the right bank. Mr. Jameson kindly ferried me over the
river here which is three hundred yards in width, my horse
swimming behind the boat. I was hospitably entertained
for the night at Sullivan's, returning to the forks the follow-
ing morning, crossing the South Thompson upon an Indian
flat boat. Since writing the forgeoing I have been informed
that gold has been found in McAuley's, Jameson's and
Lewis' creeks, and a four-foot vein of lignite coal upon the
North Thompson Indian Reservation, 70 miles from Kam-
loops.

From KAmloops to Tranquille.

On the 3rd of October I crossed the Thompson River
opposite the Hudson Bay Oo.'s store, and rode eight miles
westward along the north shore of Kamloops to Tranquille.
Low lands and green meadows from one to one-and-a-half
mUes in width, producing thousands of tons of hay extend

».m

^"-mf

'Ht«IVllti)>II

moll cotti-
'lio viillry

>iitiiiiiH lit
111(1 Kuii-
, MoAiily

(1 priiici-
;tit<! Htock
iihIh luivo

EdwardH
iiH wheat
Tlioro 18
livuii HayH
ys EH yet
;y of thin
he winter
licieut "by
carry a
On the
r Mr. Tait
• a jjretty
aloopg on

over the

my horse
atertained
he follow-
in Indian

informed
sou's and

upon the
om Eam-

>Bon River
light miles
[^ranquille.
and-a-half
lay extend

thtt who!*) diHtanc(> on thu h^t't. ThcHii worn alivo witii diickK
niitl wild ){(><is<^ A low laiigo of niouutuiiiH sptUHfly wooded
with pint- upon the HiiniiiiitH, with (^radiu'lly Hluping fooUiillH
Htretcii awuy on the ri^ht. Tliere iH a band of ovor 201)
nativtt liormtH living in thtmo luountaiuH belonging to the
HikIhoii Hay Co., Hiiid to lu) wilder than dei;r. They tly like*
the wind upon the approaeh of liorHemen, but are HoinetimeH
eapturod by partieH of ludianH mounted upon their Httetest
liorHeH, and alHo in thu winter ujioii Hiiow-HluieH, wlieii the
Hnow.s are deep. Trampiille in the home of Win. Fortune and
liiH exet^Uent wife, the former crowHing the Rooky MountaiiiH in
18fi'2 and settling here fourtt>en years ago. Together they have
acquired a magniiiuent property, consisting of a splendid ranch
of 400 acnm (stocked with 260 head of cattle, 100 horses, 100
hogs and a choice band of sheep) a gristmill grinding eighty
sacks of excellent floiir a day, and a steamlK)at, The Lady
Dnfferin. The Tran(]uille River flows through the place aft"ord-
iiig an excellent water power, and abundant water for in'igation.
Mr. Fortune's garden is one of the best I have seen in the
Province, growing in great abundance and perfection a long
list of fruits, ben-ies and vegetables, including melons luid
tomatoes. Learn i;^ that there was placer

Gold Diggings on the Tranquille

Accompanied by Mr. Fortune I went three or four miles up
the stream, and was much surjjrised at their extent and pro-
duction. From twenty to forty Chinamen have mined here
for several years and are evidentlj- doing very well. The lirst
one whom we asked to show us some gold, brought out
several packages containing an ounce or more in each. They
build log cabins, cultivate gardens, raise chickens and live
here tke year round on the best the country affords. An
oven was shown me made of rocks and mud, where they
occasionally roast a whole hog, usually on their national
holidays. Mr. Fortune says that tbey frequently go home to
China and bring back their relatives with them. Returning,
Mrs. Fortune spread an excellent lunch of home productions,
— meat, bread, butter, jams, jellies, tarts, fruits, etc. On the
wall of the sitting room I noticed a first premiiwn diploma

6'i

p,war(,iett Mr. Fortuie by.tjie ]Jform aiid'&diiitli
uufti Exliftiitidil of .187,9,fpr flour pi. his nianuf}

Saanich An-
Jpv ^our pi! his iiianufactiire. John
Jjplinson fell ^luplbyeG; of,, t^/B Hudson tBay tlo;, who haB
f^een in British ColuniJbift.fpr.thirfv years, took enlarge of my
jiorse at ni'e* Forks and pad^Joil^ me acrpsis to Kamloops in a
duc-'put. ' He remembers but four severe Winters during his
long residence in the Jf mymce,

■njd oj; ;v . ■ '■•"'/ "iJ.ijW i,« f... ..^.

n> . .fut|..M v., -/' .' ' ';< ^-' ••' ' ■iv.u.c . )., . ,.

'■^71 1( (alPhe OkahagaJo: Spallimicheen vQountry.

■¥t^} ^(tmloopi, to Okanagann^i^on, viafiuifk dk Fringle's

yftiu . CfrandPrairte, diid 'OkafAa(J4iii;-'r«tm'ning through the

i^palhi.Mheeh, Salmon ' Ewer,' 'Rd'mu'^ and Pleasant

'.^i)('h,r. : f . '^ :•• 1^1 Ji'll- Mv ,;,.:. ,

... VfdUya. ^' ' --/ ^., u- i .,;, :,\ ,y,
' •• ••" .jrtTrrrmfr ;..g .,. f, .'

On tfi6 4ttf 'of Oetober I'Tesumed my journey through the
, south-eastern portion of the Province. For eighteen miles
to Duct.& !Briag}p!8 jranch we followediup the South Thomp-
son, passing through a fine pastoral and wheat growing
^Puhtty The valley jpSroper fe''fr6m om t6 one-and-a-half
miles ' in vridth, fljiiiked bv m'o\itfttiiil8,%ith gradually receding
feHttiills covered with .biihch pas^: '^From thence we rode
eightefeh miles, »outh-ea8twaV35''6V*r^ smooth, rolling moun/
Hkim- fr^in 1,950 to 2,660 iedt lif'h^ight.to- '

' • iji'

;..U

* ^ "'" , ^ GraiM'Pmirie.

.'^hese mountainig aie. tjijwly wooded with fir and pine, and
^terspersed with laJte^J^rd^i-^d bv meadows and marsjies.
ip^rj^d Prairie ts a riah ^^d pjieasaut opening, about four miles
long, and'two miles viide,,}^c(jupied bj four settlers, Kirkpat-
rick, J. Pringle, Jonesj^ Aiid 0)f!.fJ^Sf*^ heirs. There is room
in tl^ light pine lands bordering it, lor a dozen more families.
Proceeding early on the morning of the 5th, we soon croaeed,
and then follo\yed dowij.^ the Salmon River for upwards of

aich Au-
B, John
who han
•ge of my
oops in a
luring his

twenty miles, tlrfingh arplling,^)ine timbered section,
s'tre^m ihevifloWs North in^o Sl^uswIip'Lafte,' its lower

Pringle's

irough the

Pleasant

irough the
teen miles
h Thomp-
fc growing
md-a-half
Y receding
le we rode
ng moun/

pine, and
marshes-

four miles
, Kirkpat--
re is room
re families.
»n croased,
pwfiffds of

This

SinuswftpXalte,' its lower valley
corilaiiiing ftdvei'al' thoilsan'd
Qon{inmng78<^th-'eh.stdrly

jmd'Greehh'6'WS!! ranches, '^t the head bf Okttttagan
lliey coilheTi'erd fourtee^ years a^o wiM limited means, and
an(i are'noiV''tH^'owiiertf, eq,ph,' of i,ObiO-!ici'ef rabches, and
yeven or 'fiicht'litiodi-ed het^d,ofc<j,ttI^V^61-tti' twenty-five or

thir^ thoUsIiid d'dllars. "^e ^re now iir^the'' •'■'

"■•" i- .(;»■•..'/' .- . ' ""'"f iiir/i

.^•'•^iJ .- , .cr r. ,
Whi*h,'to^e«;heT! with ihe nefe^ lyii^' VuHej-s of 8kpallumcheen
•ftnd SakioU 'River, embraced' the largefrtlscope of pastoral and
aiabler lands .in 'one body, iV sottth-eastem British Columbia.
OkanaganLake,the,8ourceoftheOkanag8ai.Biver, a tributary
of the Columbia, is about eighty miles ialeOgth/ and from two
to three miles in width.

A survey has j«st'l:)een completed for a canal connecting
^b^lakofwith the navigable waters of the Spallumcheen, only
•aiboutiiweqty,iDile8 from' its heiidi uJtte/iepp^truction would
efctMAdateambpat liavi^ation to'Withiflt thirty miles of the
Bowidary ►lin^ or 49th'par»llelf Jan^ ®-^ajtiy promote the
t«pid«flttiement,find.devek)petoefit»t>f. JWitufally the richest
paEfci9f the. interior pf the Prbvintsel ^eftphipgP'Keef'satnoon
».dl'unQhiag hastily, I walktHl'foui-. njjjles^ ap4 then mounting
^'powecful.hprse.gAlloped tliirty*pigli;kijm^es South on the
ifia^t sifiq of Okantigan Lake »ndiiiQok^ijpp^j^ at seven o'clock
with BJi L«quimetat . ■ "irty /(f -..(..f.j

-.>xw,"'/ ,, " ..] The Okanagan.JUsgiqn.

'*¥rode"''fliW»iigh the 'most magiiificeiflf ^'dStoral and farming
ve^idn'l hAVe steBiiaince-yiaitm^ j&ie' W&Tllfi WalU Valley of
'^asWgl6ii. On the rightVa^bw'r^ligA'df mountains about
feur'mies ^t'' width teaclii^Wtfre'^^^ of the Ijake

^exteiids 'most' ttf 'the. "tray. . , . . / ' "
' ' '^'irtief arg-ediTered Ts^th Imn^fe'^a^^ frOm foot-hill to simi-
mii' ahd' tRoitgh lightly J)inftiml6feretfaftbttlexcenent summer
grazogi' • immediately on ' the kft 'ilfe 'a ' chain of beautifu/

'"*"»i»«

Iiikes, extending Southward over twenty miles. First Swan
Lake, surrounded by extensive meadows, and splendid wheat
lands with a grand stretch of rolling foot-hill grazing lands,
lying to the South-eastward. Over this section under charge
of Mr. Vance range the six hundred horses of Hon. F. J.
Barnard, M. P., the most extensive breeder of fine horses in
the Province. Here are also the ranches of Lawson, Andrew,
and Lyons. Next comes Long Lake, eight or ten miles in
length, and about a mile in width with a large scope of goqd
grazing country surrounding its Northern shores. To the
East lies the Cherry Creek settlement, the home of Hon.G.
Forbes Vernon, and Girouard, Deloir, Ellison, Walker,
Keefer, Duer, P. Bissett, Louis Christian and Williams. A
narrow strip of land known as the Railway separates Long
Lake from Wood Lake. Tom Wood has a ranch and six
hundred head of cattle on its South side.

Now we reach the head of the Mission or

Okanagan Valley,

Which is about fifteen miles long, and from three to four miles
in width. It was first occupied by Peter Lequime and wife,
who came into the valley almost dead broke from Bock Creek,
twenty-two years ago, and are now the owners of a thousand-
acre ranch, 1000 head of cattle, a store, good houses, and
barns and thousands of cash besides. The soil is a rich sedi-
mentary deposit growing enormous crops of cereals and roots.
Mr. Lequime says his wheat averages from twenty-five to
thirty bushels per acre. He showed me a potato which turned
the scale at four pounds. Fruit, melons and tomatoes grow
finely, and Indian corn usually reaches maturity. The cU-
mate is healthy, water good, and fuel abundant. The lakes
abound with fish, wild geese and duck. There are about twenty
white settlers in the valley, engaged principally in stock
raising, though farming several hundred acres. First below
Woods' is the Postill Ranch of 800 acres, beautifully situated
upon Postill Lake. They have 400 head of cattle, 100 horses
and cultivate 150 acres. Their neighbor, Fulton, was digging
IKitatoes, which he estimated would yield over 500 buq^els
to the acre. He had farmed in the East and in Califonya,

First Swau
ndid wheat
izing lands,
nder charge

Hon. F. J.
le horses in
•n, Andrew I
en miles in
ope of goqd
38. To the

of Hon.G.
n, Walker,
'illiams. A
rates Long
ich and six

to four miles
le and wife*
Book Creek,
a thousand-
bouses, and
i a rich sedi-
Is and roots,
/enty-five to
ivhich turned
natoes grow
f. The cU-
The lakes
,bout twenty
illy in stock
First below
uUy situated
e, 100 horses
was digging
■ 500 bufj^els
1 Califorqia,

and never saw such a crop. Then follow the ranches of Jones,
Whelan, Fulton, McGinnis, Simpson, Lacerte, Bucherie,
Brant, Moore, Simpson, Ortolan, Jos. Christian, Eli Le-
quime, McDougal and Hayward, in the order named. Two
settlers, Fronson and Brewer, live in Priest Valley and
three white men, Major Squires, Copp and Hermann, are
gold mining on Mission Creek, about seven miles above the
Mission. There are about 4.000 head of cattle in the Okan-
agan Valley, and 6,000 in the seventy miles of country be-
tween the Mission and the Boundary Line. The Government
wagon road terminates at Lequime's, from whence pack trails
lead over the mountains to the Custom House, and 160 miles to
Hope on the Fraser River. On the morning of the 6th, I
rode forty-two miles to O'Keef's, horseback, then five miles by
wagon, when a walk of seven miles brought me to Bennett
& Lumby's ranch, in the

Spallumcheen Valley,

The choicest body of farming lands in this «rhole region. The
Spallumcheen or Shuswap River rises in the Gold Range of
mountains, and flows into Shuswap Lake, and from thence
into the South Thompson. It is navigable for steamboats to
Fortune's Ranch, about 25 miles from its mouth. Undu-
lating lightly timbered pine lands, several miles in width, ex-
tend nearly the whole distance. There are occasional small
openings, the largest, occupied by Mr. Dunbar, containing
upwards of three hundred acres. He is the only settler upon
this large tract, which will furnish farms for at leust one hun-
dred families. The soil is a deep clay loam, and the rainfall
suflScient to secure good crops without irrigation. But the
most beautiful portion of the Valley of the Spallumcheen does
not lie along the river, but beginning at Spallumcheen Land-
ing extends south for fifteen miles, with an average width
of 2^ miles. It contains about 3,000 acres of level prairie
opening, exclusive of Pleasant Valley and Round Pl-airie,
comprised within the same valley but separated by narrow
belts of pine. The soil is a deep clayey loam, producing on
an average one ton of wheat per acre and abundant crops of
all the cereals and roots grown in this latitude, and without

irrigation. ,.,T)^^ clUpate is salubrious, watw.gQQjJ,, wiutei>> of
moderat<l seyieri^'j^jjtlic^now fall uauftUy; al^qi^l two.fe^t in
dopthk" Mr. J^X^. Fortune and M«rk Wa^i()( it^^fs^ ^^^l^^^^'
in 186G ;toQk„jp.o^8^88io;x of tlie fin« farnj of,,329, .^jfi'^^ ^pvr
owned by, l^ie ^op^m: He cultivates 200. ACfeiV ^^d has, 200
lieadofcftt^ei^tljirj^' norses, &c. There aije al^yut .l,56o acres
improved in, j^be vjiUey, ^ermah WicherB,!^. i^., F»irstenq,u,
Frank Xqaf^^, P'u^' Wallace, -A. Sbubert, B[t Swan^jipn, W'.
Murray,. P, (^^-ali^m, J. "W]. Powell, and the J^i^l^lj, brotjhera
being .ita,o>lj^r 9ccujiant8. ^ Upon th«i ;..., ,, ^_ „^ •, ^ j^ ^

..•.'i.

•'<>+ r

... ,, ^fehnett'& Lumby F^;;;;'; . ,^

Owned byi MeHs^^. Pi|^st9n Bejinett & Mosas Xi<jin^l7y,,fiire car'
ried <»'the ntps^ ^xtj^^siye farn^ing operutionaj i^, |;^a ptirt.of
the Province. Their ronch comprises '1,300 «c^es^l^eantifully
situated in the heart of the valley between )piAeryv^99de^n)bun;
tains on the East and a low range of hills on the West.
Over 400 acres is, arable land*,— a' ■y^it^iWfid level tract all in
one body, tW^Jl.fenced and nearly oU uud^ qu^lljiyajtifjn. . There
is also, a fiflc, npeadow o^ 100 acfes adjoiu^i^g^ W^",?,V, Prodi^ces
from ;thyt5^jt9,|oui" tons of bay to the AQr>?,,r A .belt of youiig
pino agd pjc^p^ar extentls felong the ea8tei;n,|^pjxie^-^ at ^he ba.se
of the) mo,\u^l^aiu8.^ T^'/bugh it flows a iiv^ng ^^.^ream pf good

wateji iftpoflL (jjj'hic'h, in a pleasantigrgv^ vj^^P^iij^vi'J'?;*^ ^^P,^*"
comfpi:^able f^p ^ cppmbdious farm hotost^, , f^^d, ^ jbarns . 'Miey
haye^ i-f^^sed about 320 tons of wheat this^sc^aon, the average
yield Ijtjing, t^v^r one ton 'to the aere,i.,,5PJlf^,.^iji^fj|8|. in|prov(id
agricult^fjil^^pieme^is are used, lOsbpjiT^/^ ^^ryester^ two
^aiig-:plow;p,, ,yjae sulky plow, seed drillg,, &Cj.i- ^^ ,- ~ -.

, .Tl^e SpAUUu^cueeh and Qkanagan, Canal ^M^ ^'Wni the
'wbglejcngtib, pf. inp ranoli without tpuvl^Hg tjbe, aral^le por-
tion, au.d aj|oi;4 extrabrdin'&ry> faeilities, J^r, ,^ht^ smpn)(ent of
itSipfOj^uc.^. It is, lio^e'Vor, only tbreQ.milfj^^'om the Spal-
lumcjie^ J^ianibng, whel-esteamboajtarMn, during six or soy'en
montlii* pf .tlie year. Mr. Lumby, .an excp^ji^mially jyell in-
fopi>fe(J jjip4 <5J^J|vip'd gentleman, reaides.Pi? ^^p|ape anS gives
it^hift p.i^}^(}|cjfil supervision, alssifsted-by M^-. Matthew. Hut^hin-
spu, ..J3«?'^"Q,f?|j^|aa t|lib oteasm-e pf jnefitiflg^]\lf^;^pwinau, whp
is engaged in u geplogical 8yrvey>.,p^.tl^i8,j r^^ion. ^^e is

wiutein of

' ' ' k ■ ■ .
iwo. fe^t in

id has, 200
1,500 acres
Furstenq,u,

jvauippn, W".

\y broijh^rs

;,r/ ., '.

nt or'l... ... I

iljy,,fijre car'
tl^a part, of
,.l^uayitifully
(^dtj^njourf;
I the West.
I tract all in
tifin. . There
ch produces
pit of young
B at the base
am pf good

le, are their

/ivrr.. ^'i

arns. Thev
the average
fi imjn-ov(id
ryester. two

will iW the
B. araqle por-
shipiQpnt of
a the Spal-
six or so'veu
ally jeell iu-
jse and gives
ew.Hutchin-
owinau, who
ion. He IS

accompanied by Mr. G. Brown, an artist from San Francisco,
who is making very fine sketches in oil of its incomparable
scenery. Mr. Brown is the pioneer in the line of oil sketches
in the Province, and his work merits the liberal patronage of
the people.

A Ride Through the Salmon River Valley, Okanogan Indian
Reservation, and Round Prairie. An Interview toith
His Excellency the Oovernor-Oeneral, tlie Marquis of
Lome.

The Salmon Biver, rising in the mountains South-east of
Kamloops, in its lower course runs parallel with and about
ten miles from the Shuswap Biver, emptying into the Lake
of that name. It embraces £iom three to four thousand acres
of prairie and rolling foot-hills, and a much larger body of
open pine land easily cleared for farming purposes. The
soil is a deep dark sandy loam, producing large crops without
irrigation. It is occupied by the Steele Brothers, ( James,
Thomas, and W. B. ) Matthew Hutchinson, Geo. Lynn,
Donald Matthews, A. C. Wilkie, and Thomas James, 320
acres each. They cultivate altogether about 400 acres, and
raise a few cattle, horses and hogs. Mr. James Steele has
the best improved farm in the valley, and twenty-eight
thorough-bred shorthorns.

Mr. A. Postill is buiUUng a saw-mill on Deep Creek,
where there is a considerable body of good pine timber.
Galloping through it on the morning of October 9th, I over-
took Wm. Bicl^ardson who was blazing the trees from his
ranch to the main road. He thought it was the best country
in the world for a poor man. Landing at Burrard Inlet four
years ago with one dollar and a half, he had since earned by
Ills own labor one farm of 160 acres, partly paid for 320 acres
more, has a small band of horses, and is entirely out of debt.
A little further on my horse suddenly sprang forward, and a
small shepherd dog ran by at fiill speed. Looking bock ex-

pecting that his owner was following, great was my surprise
to see a coyote wolf in full pursuit. He stopped when about
three rods off, sat down on his haunches, as if knowing that
I was unarmed and perfectly harmless. When I advanced
he retreated deliberately, sitting down again when in climb >
ing a very steep hill I halted to 'lismount. Beaching the
summit I gave chase at full speed, but the cunning animal by
choosing the roughest ground, escaped. I have seen a shep-
herd dog and wolf in company once before standing together
upon the banks of the Bio Grande in Mexico. Biding on 14 miles
to the head of the valley and turning Eastward, I followed a
good trail seven miles across the Okanagan Indian reserva-
tion, a rich bunch grass range capable of supporting 500
or 600 head of cattle, but unoccupied except by a few
Indian ponies. Descending the foot-hills toward Lake
Okanagan,

The Governor-General, the Marquis of Lome,

And party, ex-Lieut.-Govenor Trutch and Col. DeWinton,
were Been shooting in the distance. The Marquis is very
popular with the people who came flocking in from the remot-
est settlements to see him. To use their own language the Mar-
quis is not in the least "stuck up," but chats as freely with the
poor as with the rich and titled. One of the settlers told me, with
great satisfaction, that he had a talk with the Marquis with-
out knowing who he was, and when he asked him his name
the Governor replied simply "Lome." His Excellency
expressed himself to me as highly pleased with what he had
seen in the Province, and seemed to take a deep interest in
its further development and prosperity. Mr. Campbell of
the Governor-General's staff, who accompanied the Earl of
Dufferin on his visit to the Province, was busy taking notes
upon the resources of the country. He thinks the scenery of
British Columbia is the grandest and most beautiful he has
ever seen. I returned through Bound Prairie, a very beauti-
frd opening of 600 acres, between the Salmon Birer and
Spallumcheen Yalleya. Messrs. Jones, Kirkpatrick, Prindle,
Clementson and Shubert, have secured this choice location.

ly surprise
vhen about
towing that

advanced

in climb*
aching the

animal by
een a shep-
Dg together

on 14 miles
followed a
an reserva-
Iportii^ 500

by a few
^ard Lake

Lorne,

DeWinton,
uis is very
u the remot-
ige the Mar-
sely with the
old me, with
irquis with-
in his name

Excellency
'hat he had
> interest in
]!ampbell of
the Earl of
aking notes
e scenery of
tifdl he has
rery beauti-

Birer and
iok, Prindle,
3 location.

From the SpaUumcJieen Valley to Messrs. Barnard ami Vernon s
Bunches, via Pleasant Valley.

From Messrs. Bennett and Lnmby's farm to Mr. Vernon's
is about twenty-five miles. En route I passetl through
Pleasant Valley a fino level prairie opening of 800 or 900
acres, lying a mile ir.d a half to the Eastward of the main
road. In reaching it by a short cut across a swamp my
horse suddenly sunk belly deep, when, dismounting, we both
floundered out covered with mud and water. I foimd the
settlers, Clinton & Murray, Edward Thorne, Herman Wichers,
Donald Graham and the Croziers in the midst of threshing*
Mr. Murray gave me the yearly product of his cereals for a
term of six years, which shows an average yield of twenty-
eight bushels per acre. Being quite wet, to avoid taking cold>
I left my horse at O'Keef 's, and proceeded from thence on
foot. Four miles Southeast of the head of Lake Okanagan*
I took a trail leading along the Eas' side of Swan Lake. At
least

A Thousand Wild Qeese

Were standing together upon the shore. Two or three miles
beyond, darkness overtook me, and after two hours' unsuccess-
ful search among the foot-hills for Vance's, wet to my waist*
I found shelter in the cabin of a neighboring settler. It con-
tained a single room already occupied by two white men, two
Indian women and their babes. But in the smallest house in
this country, as in a stage-coach or street-car, there is always
room for one more, tnd after ringing and drying out for an
hour beforo a roaring fire I laid down upon a mattress on the
floor until daylight. Early in the morning I reached

Hon. F. J. Barnard's Horse Ranch.

And saw upwards of 400 of his 700 horses now on the range.
Sired by Belmont, Moi^an, and Norman, stallions, they are
the finest animals I have seen in the Province. Mr. Vance,
for 14 years manager of the ranch, says that they subsist
throughout the year upon the native grasses and have suffered

from cold and soaroity of feed only one wintor during that
period. In view of the early completion of the Canadian
Pacific Railway along over 100 miles of the route of the
British Columbia Express service for which they have been
raised, a portion of them will probably be sold the ensuing
year. Five miles further over a rich rolling country, com-
prising several thousand acres of excellent wheat land, brought
me to Hon. G. Forbes Vernon's Ranch. It contains
2,500 acres, beautifully situated, between the mountains upon
Coldstream, which flows into Long Lake. Near here two
coyotes came leisurely down from the foot-hills and circling
round me within a short d'stance, returned up the mountains.
They ae q lite numerous, und catch large v. ' Vers ri small
pigs and occasionally a yonng calf.

From Spalluniclieen to Kamloops by Steamer, through iJie
Little and Big Shuawap Lakes and doum tJie South
Thompson.

From the present head of navigation on thr Bpallum-
caeen Biver to Kamloops is about 125 miles. As previously
stated, the building of a canal twenty miles in length from
Spallumcheen to the head of Lake Okanugan would extend
navigation over eighty miles further through the heart of the
richest portion of the interior of the Province. The surface
aud soil of the country through which it would pass is very
f a ^ mma ble for its cheap construction. On the 16th of Octo-
ber, having exhausted the time at my disposal for examining
the Okanagan and Spallumcheen country, I took the steamer
Spallumcheen for Kamloops. The smallest of the three running
upon the rpper waters, she is not of oceanic dimensions
and b'"-ing buill. exclusively for carrying freight, her passenger
aocommodatiou<^ are very limited. But her deficiencies in
this r'^spect were the source oi lunnsemeut r«+her than dis-
comfort. (Jupt. Meanant'eu, who w<*s also engineer, mate and
pilot, kindly shared liis bunk with me, aud wneu duties on

mm.

mfr-

•1

uring that
Canadian
ate of the
have been
ho ensuing
ntry, com-
id, brought
contains
itains upon
here two
nd circhng
mountains,
rs r{ small

through Oie
I tJie South

IP Bpallum-
i previously
length from
ould extend
leart of the
rhe surface
ass is very
th of Octo-
r examining
t;he steamer
iree running
dimensions
r passenger
tciencies in
r than dis-
r, mate and
I duties on

deck called away the Indian boy cook and interfered with the
regi'ilar service of meals, I ofhc-iuted as assistant, and so we got
along splendidly.

For two days we slowly steamed through a magnificent
stretch of lakes and rivers, amidst scenery of exceeding
grandeur and beauty. For a distance of twenty-five miles
down the Hpallumcbeen, both banks are lightly wo<xled with
fir, cedar, white pine, poplar and birch. Hazel bushes
and highbush cranberries are seen gi'owing near the river.

The valley is from one to three and a half miles in
width, surface generally level, soil a rich clay loam and allu-
vial, and will afford homes for more than ICM) families. Some
portions will require dyking to the height of about three feet
for protection against overflow. Should the Canadian Pacific
Railway adopt the South Thompson and Kicking Horse
Pass route these lands will soon become quite valuable.
When about half way down the Spallumcheeu

A Deer was seen Swimming across ahead of us.

Giving chase, the frightened animal instead of turning back to
the shore and escaping, phmged on directly in our course, until
standing on the bow of the boat, armed with a long pole, I
was able to strike it a fatal blow on the head. Our two Indian
helpers sprang into a canoe, seized and threw it on deck, an
acceptable addition to our larder.

Swan, wild geese, and duck were seen at almost every
turn, but thore were no firearms, not even a pistol on board.
We tied up for tlie night on the shore of the Lake, opposite
a logging camp. The best timber found in this part of the Pro-
vince grows upon the borders of these lakes and of the streams
flowing into them. A party of Indians were catching fish by
torch light near us. Salmon and trout were so numerous
that I could count them by the dozens from the boat as we
advanced in the morning. Beaching the Thompson Biver^
the mountains recede more gradually, the bare rolling foot-hills
affording considerable grazing, and occasional benches of
arable lands, chiefly occupied by Indians.

•f

Prom Kamloops to Cook'n Ferry, throiigh the Nicda Country.

The N icola River, a tributary of the Thompson, is the
principal stream draining the mountainous region lying be-
tween the latter, and Lake Okanogan on the East. The valley
is narrow, and disappointing for the first twenty miles, but
then spreads out over the rolling foot-hills and mountains,
embracing one of the finest bodies of grazing country in the
Province. It contains i. population of about six hundred, four
hundred of which are Indians, the former being engaged
chiefly in stock-raising, oming at present about 8,600 cattle,
1,500 horses, and 1,200 sheep. The climate and soil are also
well adapted to the growth of grain and root crops, upwards
of a thousand acres being under cultivation by irrigation.
A fair wagon road trail extends all the way from Kam-
loops to Cook's Ferry, the distance being a little over one
hundred miles. With the exception of John Gilmore's ex-
press, which runs up the valley about half way from the Ferry
with H.M.'s mails, it is not traversed by any regular convey-
ance. Starting out early on the morning of October 18th, for
nearly twenty miles I gradually ascended the summit of the
Thompson-Nicola divide through rich, rolling bunch grass
ranges, occupied by Messrs. McConnell, MoLeod, Jones,
Nevnnan, and others. Then descending Lake River, the head
waters of the Nicola, through Fraser's and Scott's ranches, I
stopped a few moments at Mr. William Palmer's dairy farm.
He milks thirty-five cows, chums by water-power, and makes
an excellent quality of butter and veiy good cheese, the
fon er selling readily for 40 and the latter at 20 cts. per

pom^d.

From thence I took a trail several miles over a spur of the
mountain, leaving the fine ranches of the Moore Brothers on the
right. Soon I reach the head of Nicola Lake, a beautiful
body of water extending down the valley for fourteen miles,
with an average vridth of about one mile. The little village
of Quilchanna, consisting of Joseph Blackboume's Hotel,
Edward O'Rourke's store, Richard O'Rourke's blacksmith
shop, and P. L. Anderson's stare, is situated on the East side.
A. YanYolkenbuigh owns a splendid 2,000-acre ranch here,
stocked with 900 head of cattle, and Blackboume, John Ham-

la Country.

Hon, is the

1 lying be-

The valley

miles, but

mountains,

atry in the

Lndred, four

ig engaged

,500 cattle,

loU are also

)B, upwards

irrigation.

rom Kam-

e over one

more's ex-

in the Ferry

lar convey-

>er 18th, for

nmit of the

•unch grass

9od, Jones,

er, the head

) ranches, I

dairy farm-

and makes

cheese, the

20 cts. per

, spur of the
>thers on the
a beautiful
rteen miles,
little village
ne's Hotel,
blsMiksmith
e East side,
ranch here,
John Ham-

ilton, Qeorge 0. Bent, John Gilmore, Samuel Wasley, Byron
Earushaw, and Patrick Killroy, other excellent ranges in this
neighborhood.

The Douglas Lake country, lying to the Eastward, con-
tains a considerable extent of choice pastoral lands, owned by
0. M. Beak, Hugh Murray, L. Guiohon, T. Richardson,
McBae Brothers and others. It is said that one of its most
prosperous stock-raisers recently wedded a lady from the
Golden State, and started with hei for his ranch. The fair
bride had been led either by the overdrawn statements of her
anxious lover, or the natural fancies of a youthful, inex-
perienced maiden, to expect to be ushered into a mansion
house becoming the possessor of such large bands of fat cattle
and wide areas of rich pasturage. Now it is well known that
some of these cattle Lords dwell in habitations which would
not be considered first class for any purpose, — single
room, dirt floor, dirt roof, one window, low, small, dirty log
cabins, where, in the dim light of a tallow candle, they make
their slap-jacks, as I have seen them, on the top of a dirty stove.
The happy couple, after a splendid ride through the beautiful
country, halt before a rough pile of logs, having the appear-
ance of a stable. "What is this?" the bride asked. " This
is my home — our home," replied the bridegroom. "Homel
Home!! You — ^you cruel deceiver, you call that miser-
able hovel out home? It may do for your home, but it will
never be mine,'' she exclaimed with dramatic emphasis, and in
spite of all entretztiet'., oft him then and there and returned to
the Sunny South. Nine miles further down the now narrow-
ing valley brings me to

Nicola,

Its principal town. It is pleasantly situated near the foot of
the lake and comprises a neat little church and school-house,
Fettit & Oo.'s store, George Fenson's flour and saw-mill, and
several private reddenoes. Leaving Nicola, the valley
broadens again for several miles, stretching away across the
river bottoms and over the Westward slopes of the moun-
tains. John Clapperton, A. D. G. Arxoitage, Paul Gillie,
Edwin Dalley, John Ohartres, Wm. Ohartres, Wm. Yoght and

Alexander Coutlie are the principal Hettloig of this aeotiou.
The latter haa one of the lient plaoea in the interior. From
thence the valley rapidly narrowa, and below the Woodward
farms and millH. to loaa than a mile in width, flanked by pre-
oipitouB, thinly pine woinled mountaina. There are Hmall
tracts of arable and irrigable lands, chiefly occupied by In-
dians, James Phair, proprietor of the 22-mUe house — a very
comfortable, home-like inn— being the only white settler for
the last twenty-five miles. I am informed by Mr. Thaddeus
Harper and others, that there is a six-foot vein of good bitu-
minous coal in the central portion of the valley, easily acces-
sible.

TRIP NUMBER THREE.

From Victoria to Burrard Inlet upon the steamer Alexander,
Capt. Donald Urquhart, Commamlimj. A Visit to Port
Moody, the Moodyville and Hastings Saw-mills, OranviUe,
and the Intlian Villages, Returning via Departure Bay and
Nanaimo. Bound Trip, 215 Miles.

On Board Steabier Alexander,

November 11th, 1882.

Burrard Inlet, an arm of the Qulf of Georgia, extends
about twelve miles inland from the entrance, between Points
Grey and Atkinson. Port Moody, on this harbor, has been
selected as the Pacific terminus of the Canadian Pacific
Railway. Everyone familiar with the topography of the
North-west coast, and the character of its sea approaches«
will recognize the wisdom of the choice. The Inlet is a per-
fect land-looked harbor, with excellent anchorage and easily
accessible, in all kinds of weather, for the largest ships afloat-
It is situated about eighty-^ve miles from Victoria, six miles
from New Westminster, and thirty-six miles from Vancouver
Island at Nanaimo. Immediately bordering its shores are

m^sm

hid tieotion.

lior. From

Woodward

;od by pre-

aro HDiall
)ied by In-
use — a very

Hettler for
-. TltaddeuH
f good bitu-
sasily uoces-

• Alexander,
f^isit to Port
's, OranviUe,
ure Bay and

NDER,

Itli, 1882.

'gia, extends
:ween PointH
lor, has beeu
lian Pacific
iphy of the

approachesi
nlet is a per-
e and easily

ships afloat,
ia, six miles
n Vancouver
9 shores are

the largent IkkHhh of valuable fir timl»er in the Province.
Here great Haw-niillH have Ymen in operation since 1865, ex*
porting immense quantities of timlM^r, direct to all the princi-
pal eastern [MirtH of the world. Steam tugs have been employed
towing back and forth the numerous fleet of vesseln engaged in
this trade ; of these, tlie Alexander, Capt. Donald Uniuhart,
commanding, is the largest, finest and most powerful on the
Pacific coast. She was built at Port Essington, near the
mouth of the Skeena, in 1876, and is 180 feet in length,
twenty- seven feet wide, with two 4fX)-hor8e power engines.
Leaving the fine harbor of Esquimalt on the evening of the
9th, with two ships in tow, she steamed along easily through
the Straits and across the Gulf at the rate of eight miles an
hour.

At daybreak the following morning we were heading
directly for a lofty snow-capped peak of the mainland, be-
neath which flashed the brilliant light of Point Atkinson.
The dark outlines of the grand old mountains were clearly
defined against the cloudless starUt sky. Just before round-
ing Point Gray the rising sun gilded the snow covered sum-
mit of Mount Baker, and of the Cascade Range. A large
black whale is rolling and spouting within rifle range on the
right. Entering the inlet, Indian villages are seen on the
shores, and two Indians paddl'? by, making the woods ring
with their salutations. A dense forest of Douglas pine reaches
down to the water' s edge, except whore leveled by the axe
of the lumberman. We leave the ships a little beyond
English Bay, and run alongside the wharf of

The Basting's Sawmill Company.

This firm are manufacturing about fifteen million feet of
lumber annually, most of which is shipped t<o Chinese, Austra-
lian and South American ports. Four foreign ships were
waiting for their cargoes. The company own large tracts of
the choicest Douglas pine, and frequency fill requisitions for
enormoits sticks of timber, some twenty-six inches square and
110 feet in length, and forty-two inches at the base and 120
feet long. The pleasant village of Granville lies adjoining the
Hastings Mills. It had strong expectations of securing the

prize which has fallen to Port Moody. Crossing the Inlet
to the North side, about six miles from the entrance, we dis-
charge freight iit the wharf of the

Moodyville Sawmill Company

The most extensive manufacturers and exporters of lumber
on the coast, North of Puget Sound, Their great mill, fur-
nished with ten electric lights for night work, completely-
equipped with double circular and gang saws, edgers, scantling,
planing, and lathe machines, and employing a hundred men,
were cutting up huge logs at the rate of fi'om 75 to 100 thou-
sand feet daily, or from 20 to 25 million feet a year. Qu' ^e a
fleet of ships lay waiting for their cargoes for China, Japan,
Australia, and the West Coast of South America. The town
with its mOl, machine shop, store; hotel, boarding house, and
numerous dwellings, and the shipping in front, presented the
most interesting scene of activity on the Inlet. The company
own large bodies of the best timber in this region, and ha,ve
about 100 men logging in their several camps. They obtain
the largest and hnest specimens of fir on Howe Sound, Mud
Bay and Jervis Inlet, furnishing almost any size requu-ed.
Mr. Hickey, chief engineer of the steamer Alexander,
measured one of them which was seven feet six inches through
at the butt and six feet and six inches fifty feet therefrom,
five feet and fo"r inches 100 feet up, and five feet in diameter
130 feet from its base. These mills are owned by Welch & Co.
of San Francisco, Mr. Geoi-ge B. Springer being their mana-
ger at Moodyville, and Welch, Rithet & Co. their agents
at Victoria. Returning we cr 'ss the Gulf, about thirty-
six miles, to Departure Bay, arriving just as the steam
collier Barnard Castle is starting for San Francisco. After
coaling from the North Wellington mine the captain nms
down three miles to

Nanaimo,

llie principal mining city of the great coal fields of Van-
couver and the home of Robert Dunsmuir Esq., M. P. P.,
their largest owner. It is surrounded by the Wellington,
Newcastle and Vancouver coal mines, the most productive in

; the Inlet
ce, we dis-

of lumber
it mill, fur-
completely
3, scantling,
ndred men,
) 100 thou-
r. Qu' ;e a
ina, Japan,
The town
house, and
jsented the
he company
, and ha,ve
['hey obtain
ioimd, Mud
ze required.
Alexander,
rhes through
t therefrom,
in diameter
Welch & Co.
their mana-
theii agents
bout thirty-
B the steam
sisco. After
captain runs

slds of Van-

, M. P. P.,

Wellington,

)roductive in

the Province, their aggregate annual output amounting to about
210,000 tons. A fine bark, the first vessel built here, was
nearly ready for launching. The suburbs of the city were
ahve with Indians gathering from far and near to engage in
the festivities of a grand potlatch.

TBIP NUMBER FOUR.

From. Victoria to Port Moody, tlue Terminus of t}ie Caiutdian
Pacijic Railway, via Neio Westminster. Hound Trip,
164 miles.

From Moodyville, the farthest point reached at Bur-
rard Inlet by the Alexander on the 10th inst., I could only
obtain a distant and unsatisfactory view of the situation of
Port Moody. I therefore proceeded to New Westminster by
steamer, and from thence walked six miles to the Inlet. Most
of the way, great fires have swept through, and nearly
destroyed the once magnificent forest. A few giant trees re-
main, a Douglas fir which I measured girting 33 feet, and a
dead cedar from which the bark had been burned measuring
47^ feet in circumference four feet from the base. About a
mile in an old Indian canoe with Peter Calder, brought me to
the townsite of

Port Moody.

It is situated on the South side, near the head of the
Inlet, a beautiful sheet of water so perfectly sheltered on all
sides by a thick forest growth that it may be safely navigated
in stormy weather by the smallest craft. . High mountains
rise abruptly on the North, the Southern shore receding
gradually over rolling timber lands. This is the favorite
abode of the mountain sheep, and bears are so numerous that
they are frequently caught stealing from the mess tents of
the railway camps. A force of 750 men under the superin-
tendence of Mr. Albert J. Hill, Assistant Engineer of the

C.P.K.B., were at work preparing the terminal facilities of
the great railway which reaches the tidewaters of the Pacific
here. An immense wharf, having a frontage of 1,324 feet, and
requiring over 20,000 piles for its construction, was reproach-
ing completion. The warehouse is 210 feet long and 48 feet
wide, and accessible at low tide fov ships drawing 24 feet of
water. Grading for the road-bed was being pushed with all
possible vigor. Four ships loaded with railroad iron are now
on their way here from England. Mr. Hill and his wife — the
first lady resident of Port Moody — were just commencing
housekeeping in the second story of the new railway offices
and depot. It requires no prophetic foresight to predict with
reasonable certainty regarding the future of the terminus of
such a great railway, stretching from ocean to ocean across
over 2,500 miles of cotmtry, embracing hundreds of miUions
of acres of the choicest pastoral and wheat growing lands in
America. Fleets of ships will soon be sailing between Port
Moody and Eastern ports, laden with the exports and imports
of a great commerce; lines of steamers will run regularly from
thence to Victoria and the cities of Puget Sound and of the
South Pacific; connection with the Northern Pacific and
the American railway system will doubtless be made, and
machine shops, car-works, ship-yards, and other manufactur-
ing industries established at an early day.

TRIP NTTMBEB FIVE.

From Victoria to North Saanich. Sound Trip, 42 mUes.

Saanich is one of the most important fjetrming settlements
on Vancouver Island. It is situated upon a narrow peninsula
from three to six miles in width, surrounded by the waters of
the Haro Straits and of the Fiulayson Inlet or Saanich Arm,
which extends Southward for about twenty miles nearly to the
harbor of Esquimalt. Though this portion of Vancouver,
like most of its surface, is generally covered with a thick
forest of fir and spruce, it comprises several thousand acres

'aciliiies of

the Pacific

24 feet, and

nproach-

>nd 48 feet

g 24 feet of

led with all

■on are now

s wife — the

ommencing

way offices

)redict with

^rminns of

3ean across

of miUions

ng lands in

itween Port

ind imports

l^olarly from

and of the

Pacific and

made, and

mannfactur-

, 42 mUes.

settlements
w peninsula
le waters of
anich Arm,
learly to the
Vancouver,
ith a thick
isand acres

of prairie openings. Both soil and climate are well adapted
to the growth of large crops of haj, grain, roots, hops, &c.
There are two good turnpikes, known as the East and West
Saanich Boads, extending t>om the suburbs of Victoria
through South and North Saanich. Every few miles there
are comfortable wayside inns and summer, health and pleasiu*e
resorts. First, the Swan Lake Hotel, by William Lewis,
about three mUes out from the city ; then the Royal Oak, by
John Camp & Son, at the junction of the two roads ; next
Stephens', about two miles beyond ; the Mount Newton
Hotel, by John Henderson, 13 miles ; and lastly, Henry
Waine's Inn, 20 miles from Victoria, — all convenient to ex-
cellent fishing, hxmting, and boating.

At the Mount Newton House the waters of Finlayson
Lilet were seen through the bordering groves of oak and pine.
The Saanich tribe of Lidians have built their village on the
shore of a pleasant cove on the east side. Approaching it, I
met two Lidians, a man and boy, the former carrying a bow
and arrow. Expressing my surprise that a grown man should
be hunting with such a weapon, the Lidian said it belonged
to his son, and that he was only teaching him how to shoot.
This explanation was made in a manner soapologeticalthatit
showed that he felt above the use of such savage and childish
implements himseU: Hero as elsewhere their lands afford
little more than a camping place, only small patches being in-
differently cultivated for root crops, their main support
coming from the sea, the forest, and rivers. Upon the ground of
original occupancy, many of the choicest situations through-
out the Province generally have been reserved for the
Lidians. This I believe to be just, to the extent of giving
them all the lands which they reasonably require. Where,
however, as in many instances, both in British Columbia and
in the United States, extensive tracts have been set apart for
small bands who do not make any profitable use of the same,
it is an injustice to the whites who desire and need the land
for homes and cultivation. From what I have seen of the
condition of the Lidians in various parts of North America,
I am of the opinion that the time has come to abolish the
reservation system altogether, and grant to the Lidians, iudi-

vidually, liberal quantities of land, giving them a reasonable
time in which to avail themselves of such an allowance, and
then open the balance of their reservations to settlement the
same as upon other portions of the pubUo domain. After a
good dinner at Waine's, I returned to Victoria by the East
road, passing several quite extensive, well managed and pro-
ductive farms. Meeting a party of settlers, they suggested
what I have often observed, that in following public highways
many of the finest portions of the country escape notice, and
by way of illustration indted me to go with them less than
fifty rods from where we stood — which I did — and saw a beau-
tifiil level prairie of several hundred acres hidden fi-om the
ordinary traveler behind rising ground and a grove of pines.

TRIP NUMBER SIX.

From Victoria to Fort Wranyel, Alaska, loith Capt. MoGuUoch
of the Hudson Bay steamer Otter. Through tlie Canal De
Haro, Gulf of Georgia, Dodd's Pass, Seymour Narrows,
Discovery, Johnstone, and Broiighton Straits; Queen
Charlotte, Fitzhugh, MiUbank, Wrights, and Chatham
Sounds ; Tolmie, Greenville, and ReviUa Gigedo Chan-
nels, via Departure and Alert Bays, Fort Rupert,
Rivers Inlet, Port Essington, Bella Bella, MeOahattah,
and Fort Simpson. Magnificent Scenery, Extensive
Coal fields, Salmon Fisheries, Indiav Vilku/es, Trading
Posts, Missions <kc. dec. Round Trip 1,600 mUes.

On Board Steamer Otter,

In Alaska Waters, Sept. 1st, 1882.

The Hudson Bay Company were the pioneers of the
steamboat navigation of the waters of the North-west coast,
having brought the Beaver round the Horn in 1836, the oldest
steamer on the Pacific, the Otter in 1853, and the Labou-

a reasonable
)\vance, and
ttlument the
liu. After a
by the East
ed and pro-
iy suggested
lie highways
) notice, and
em less than
1 saw a beau-
en from the
e of pines.

ot. McGuUoch
the CaiudDe
our Narrows,
I'aits; Queen
ind Chatham
9igedo Chain-
Fort Rupert,
, MettakaUah,
y, Extensive
xges. Trading
)00 miles.

ipt. 1st, 1882.

meers of the
ii-west coast,
36, the oldest
. the Labou-

chere in 1859. Tlioxigh at first employed principally in the
fur trading service of the company, they established as
early as 1862, lapon the breaking out of the Stickeen River
gold excitement, a regular line of steamers for parisengers and
fi'eiglit between Victoria and Fort Simpson, B. C, ninning
occasionally during the summer months to Fort Wrangel,
Alaska, 160 miles beyond and 750 miles fiom Victoria. From
May to September is the most favorable season for the
voyage, rain, mists and fogs prevailing along the coast Norih
of lattitude 56 during a considerable portion of the remain-
der of the year. On the 26th of August we started from
Victoria for Fort Wrangel on the steamer Otter. Capt.
McCulloch, commanding, has had over twenty years' experience
in navigating these wonderfid waters. An Irishman by birth,
in 1860 he sailed upon the N i. ette for the Island of Van-
couver. The vessel was wrecked anel lost upon Race Rocks,
in the Straits of Fuca, a few miles from the harbor of their
destination, and to this circumstance the New World is in-
debted for his skillful and faithful services. Following the
Fraser River route to near Plumper Pass, and then taking
the Nanaimo Channel, a Uttle past noon we emerged from a
narrow rock-boimd passage, known as Dodd's Pass, and sail-
ing within sight of the city of Nanaimo, three miles beyond,
enter the fine little harbor of

Departare Bay.

This is the location of the most extensive and valuable coal
mines on the Pacific Coast. While the steamer was coaling
I jumped into a car and rode three miles through a thick
forest of Douglas fir to the North WelUngton Colliery, the
most productive mine now in operation. Here I found a
pleasant village and several hundred men taking out coal
at the rate of about 800 tons a day. Five ships and
two steamers were waiting for cargoes at their wharves
for San Francisco, Wilmington, Honolulu, and China.
These mines, owned by Dutismuir, Diggle & Co., were first
opened in 1870 and are now being worked by two slopes and
three shafts to a depth of about 300 feet, the annual output
aoiounting to 176,000 tons. Mr. Dunsmuir informs me that

w,K^^^-^j W P ' ^ ' uit|fete!^yt

^QHWif^nMIIPfM

;i/i^

they are sinking another shatt and can soon take out 2,000
tons a day if the demand should require it. Besuming our
voyage that night, early the 27th we were passing opposite

Gomox,

One of the largest and most prosperous farming settle-
ments on Vancouver Island, 136 miles from Victoria. We
are now in Discovery Passage with Valdez Island on the
right, upon the shore of which the brown huts of a small
Indian village are visible, and soon enter Seymour Narrows*
through which the waters rush whirling and foaming at the
rate often or twelve miles an hour. The most powerful
steamers seldom attempt to go through against th.*^ tide.
The U. S. steamer Saranac struck a rajk here a few years
ago and went down in 500 or 600 feet of wat'^r. This is the
point where the Canadian Pacific Bailroad have considered
the practicabiUty of bridging for an extension of their line
from the mainland down Vancouver Island to Esquimalt
Harbor. It would be an enormously expensive undertaking.
Another glorious clay 's ride amidst scenery of exceeding
grandeur, through Johnstone's and Broughton Straits, between
Vancouver, Thui'low, Hardwicke, Cracroft, Hanson, and
Fearse Islands, all rocky, mountainous and thickly timbered
with fir, cedar and spruce, just before sunset we arrive at

Alert Bay,

Two hundred and thirty miles from Victoria. It is a
sheltered indentation upon the West side of Cormorant
Island, opposite the mouth of the Nimpkish Biver,of Vancou-
ver, the home of the Nimpkish tribe of !' adians from time
immemorial. They were discovered here by Captain Cook,
over 100 years ago. They now number about 190, and
occupy a picturesque village of large houses made from cedar
logs and planks. The fronts of several were covered with
grotesque paintings and had tall cedar outposts with hideous
carvings. As I walked through it, old and young squatted in
groups upon the ground around the entrances, many in blan-
kets, and exchanged salutations in a friendly, hearty manner.

7:{

bake out 2,000
Besumiug our
ssing opposite

arming settle-
Victoria. We
Island on the
uts of a small
mour Narrows,
foaming at the
most powerful
linst tL,^ tide,
e a few years
<r. This is the
iTe considered
of their line
to Esquimalt
e undertaking.
'■ of exceeding
Straits, between
Hanson, and
ickly timbered
t we arrive at

>ria. It is a
of Cormorant
irer,of Vancou-
ans from time
Captain Cook,
)out 190, and
Eide from cedar
) covered with
} with hideous
ng squatted in
many in blan-
learty manner.

TiJiff^c quantities (if driod Halnaon, their prineijial food, luin^'
inside of their dismul, windowless houses. In the edj^^e of tlie
forest elose at hand, suspemled among the hranehes of tlie
tallest trees were at least a dozen bodies of their dead. The
Episcopal Churt'h of England has established a mission
nmon^ them, built a chnnih and school, and placed Rev. Mr.
Hall in charge. Just as we were leavmg, a neatly droMsed
Indian boy jiassed through the village ringing n biill for
evening service to which many weie responding. Messrs.
Eirl, Huson it Spencer built tlie Alert Bay Salmon Canner)"
here last year, at an oxpenditurt; of about $20,000, putting up
5,000 or 0,000 ca.ses of salmim of superior excellence. The
Halmou are cAught in the Ninij)kish River, chiefly by the
Indiaius. This stream is the outlet of Kurmutsen Lake,
bordering which, there are re))orted several hundi'ed acies of
land suitiible for cultivation.

Fort Rupert,

A village of the Fort Rupert Indians, and Hudson Baj trad-
ing post is next reached. It is finely situated on the East
shore of Vancouver Island, about 35 miles from Cape Scott,
the extreme North-western {)oint of the Island. From thence
we sailed by moonlight through Queen Charlotte Sound, a
Htr(;tch of about thirty-five miles of open sea, sometimes
rough enough, but now placid and unrippled, the long swells
rolling gently without a break, entering Fitzhugh Sound by
dayUght the 29th. " The finest night we have had for six or
seven mouths" said the watchman, as I met him on deck early
iu the morning. We had passed the Sea Otter groui> of
islands, aho Calvert and Hecate, all on the left, and

Rivers Inlet

On the right. Here the steamer on her return rticeived seven
hundred cases of salmon from the Rivers Inlet Canning Co.,
Thos. Shotbolt «fe Co., proprietors, established at the mouth
of the O-wee-kaj'-no River iu FeVn-uary last. The}- will pack
about 5,000 cases this season. The salmon are larger than
those caught at most other places, frequently weighing

■P

seventy-five pouiuls. At nine o'iflock we are opposit*' tl)o
entrance to Burkt^'n Dmnnel wliicli IcikIk away for fifty mileH
North-eastward through tlie North Bentic Arm to

Bella Gcola.

A village of about 300 of the Bella (Joola ln(Hn.nh, and a
trading post of the Hudson Bay Company, W. Sinclair, iigent.
Rev. Mr. Wood, a missionary of the Methodist C'urch of
Canada, Just returned from thei*e, tells rae that fh'- "tuiit'on
is (' ry ''. eaxitiful one, and that th.^ro are about 2,000 acres
"^. rh\ii li ;iia laudb at tho mouth of the Bella Coola River, a
pt.)j!iii.?i of which are cultivated by the Indians for raising
] • f.'.t'je • He also reports finding them in a very degraded
conditio^' ■ ny of the men Uving by the prostitution of theiv
women. Steaming on through Fisher's Channel we turn into
Lima Passage, which extends in a North-westerly direction
into Ogden Channel. When about ten miles up, the vessel
suddenly rounds into a little cove opposite the Indian village
and Hudson Bay trading post of

Bella Bella.

The Bella Bella tribe having their permanent quarters here
number about 250. They are entirely self-supporting.

A resident ' issionitry, Rev. C. M. Tate, is provided by
the Methodists of Canada. There is no landuig, but the en-
gine had scarcely stopped before we were surrounded by a
fleet of canoes of all sizes, containing twenty-five or thirty
natives, men, women and children, who had come, some from
curiosity, others to receive their fiiends, several young men of
the tribe, employes of the Hudson Bay Company; returning
home for a visit. Their houses are built of logs and plank,
with low double roof, generally without chimney or windows,
and one small entrance in iront. Numerous graves were seen
on the neighboring hills, made very conspicuous by the bril-
liant red bunting floating over them. Rude mon^Tients, co"a-
sisting of enormous wooden circulars with images and canoes,
marked the graves of the chiefs. In less than an hour our
voyage was resumed. Crossing Millbank Sound at the close

)p{*)Hlt'' the
)!• fifty mihs

iR,nH, and a
nclair, agont.
it C'urch of
V' "tuiil ou

2,000 acres
•ola Kiver, a
8 for raiding
)ry degraded
iition of their

we turn into
irly direction
p, the vessel
ndian village

[uarters here
orting.

provided by
;, but the en-
•ounded by a
five or thii'ty
le, some from
young men of
ny; returning
;s and plank,
y or windows,
ves were seen

by the bril-
v'Tients, co"ii-
!S and canoes,
I an hour our
[ at the close

f«

of (luo of the most beautiful days of the year, a 1>right
moonlight night, lights us through a succession of moHt
remark. li lie waters — Tolmio Channi;!, Frastn's and McKay's
Bcachoh, Wriglit's Pound, into Greenville Channel by day-
'yicak the 30th.

At liowo's Inle' about half way through on the right
there is a salmon iisliing and salting «'stablishmeut. Precip-
itous rocky nt/untains, covered with stunted cedar, their sides
*'.rr<)wed by avalanches, and summits white witi) snow, de-
scribes the general features of the landscape for hundreds of
miles. The mountains on the mainland rising to the height
of 3,500 f».et, are liere (tailed the Countess of Duff</rin Bange.
At noon we reach IIk mouth of the

Skeena River,

One of the most important streams in We.ster < Lri^ Co-
lumbia. It has four entrances, the main cV,; -el • uding
from Chatham Sound, and is navigable ' ''g, ' draught
steamers to Mumford Landing, a distance of s'Xi. .ai'es, and
ai)out 200 miles further for canoes. This Is iie shortest and
best route to the Omineca country, and to Si i ] of the Hud-
son Bay trading posts.

Port Essington,

Situated near its mouth, a small village of white traders, and
about 125 Tsimpsheean Indians, is the principal settlement
upon its banks. There is one salmon cannery — the Windsor
Canning Co. — situated at Aberdeen, within sight ot the op-
posite bank, and another — the Inverness — on Inverness
Slough, about eight miles below. They will put up not far
from 26,000 cases the present season. Mt-. Wm. V. Brown,
a pioneer miner and prospector, who has spent four years ex-
ploring this region, reports quite extensive tracts of open
grazing country, lying between the Skeena and Naas Kivers,
and also still larger ranges between the former river and
Fraser Lake.

About sixteen miles beyond tlie mouth of the Skeena, we
suddenly come in full view gf the most populous and inviting

m/rn-^

tgfflr^- f

t:.

7(\

fjlaci! we liuvo scon tliuH far, — a n»>at vilia^^c (»f aliout !.')(►
tiouHtiH, htiuutifuUy situatud U|><)utli«> THiiiipsliri'aii |uwiiiiHula.
A large, tine chiin-li ami rtcliool-liouse arc conHpu-uouHl}- prom-
inent. Tlua-o m alwi a Mt«m(, Haliuon CaiiJU'ry, ami Hawiiiill.
This iH

Metlakathia,

Tho fiolil of thf reuiarkahly siurcusHful work of Mr. Diukmii,
ill civilizing and ciu-iHtiaiUKiug tint TsinipHhoeaii luilians. Ho
firHt eHtablisluxl a niisHiun at Fort 8iul|)^w>u, a |)o*st of tho
HiidK(»n Bay Company, but for the pmijose of greater isola-
tion in 1H62 removed to Metlakathia, where ho has gathered
about 1,000 of that trilH>, and through u firm Government and
faithful Hticulur and religious training raised them from bar-
barism to the condition of civilized people. Tiiey live in
comfin'table houses, dress like the whites, schocjl their chil-
dren, and worship in one of tho largest churches in the Pro-
vince, eriicted at a cost of $10,000.

Fort Sirapsou.

About 15 miles further across Chatham Sound, brings us to For t
Simpson, the principal trailing p;>st of the Hudson Bay Co.
upon the Pacific coast. It has Jjoen the favorite abotle of
the Tsirnpsheean Inilians, one of the most populous and ixjwer-
ful of the native tril>es of North America from times imme-
morial. When first occupied by the Hudson Bay Company,
their village here contained over two thousand people. They
were found living in houses, many of which are still standing,
strongly built of great lunvn timl>ers and thick planks split
from enormous cedars. Some of their canoes, made from a
single tree, are ovei' 65 feet in length, carrying seventy people,
and m which they not infrequently make voyages as far South
as the Straits of Fuca, and North to Alaska. The situation
was the most commanding which could have been selected for
traffic with the neighboring tribes. They came here to trade
from the Skeena, Naas, Stickeen, Takou, and Chilkat Rivers,
the Queen Charlotte and Prince of Wales Islands, Wrangel
and Sitka, and from the distant interior, to exchange their
furs for goods. For several years most of this barter was car-

iilxxit ITyO

louslj- prom-
ul Huwiiiill.

VIr. rhiiiciin,
kdiiiiiH. He

MMsl of tho

(iiiitiv i.sola-
iis giithorud
Dt'umoat 1111(1
li from bur-
lioy live ill
)l their cliil-
* in the Pro-

ngs lis to For t
sou Bay Co.
rite aboile of
18 and power-
times immo-
ay Coinj)nny,
eoplo. They
till standing,
planks split
nade from a
v^enty people,
i as far South
?he situation
Q selected for
here to trade
lilkat Bivers,
ids, Wrangel
change their
irtor was car-

ri«>(l on through tiio TsimpHlu'nanH, wlio wouhl not permit tlie
inland tril)<>H to dt>al directly with the ugcntHof tht> conipHny,
hut jealously rescrvtid that privilege for their own peo|>le.
Fort Simpson was then the liase ot supplies for all the trading
posts of this region, which were brought in t\w (jompany's
own ships direct from England. The fort consists of a simple
HtcM^kade about twenty feet in height, made from large cedar
poles, with watch and shooting towers, andench»ses the store
warehouses, and (juarters of th(* servants of the company.
The village contains at present about HOG Indians, most t)f
whom live in conifortabUi houses and dnsss in civilized eos-
tum(!S. Uemaining here several hours discharging freight, I
had tlut pleasure of meeting Bev. Mr. Crosby and his estima-
l.'le wife, missionaries of tht^ W(!sleyan Methodist Church of
Canada, of examining the mission dnm-h and school and attend-
ing an interesting service in the evening. To their noble self-
sacnfieing labors during the pr>st eight years, the marked
improvement in the conditicm of these people is mainly due.
Their houses for worship and instruction, erected almost ex-
clusively by Mr. Crosby and the Indians at a cost of about
18,000, chiefly expended for material, are well designed, well
built, commodious and comfortable. Taking a purely secular
view of such results, it must be conceded that the missionaries
are doing more than all other agencies combined to bring
these semi-barbarous tribes into peaceful subjection to the
general Government, and harmonious and beneficial relations
■with the whites. Fort Simpson is situated about 35 miles
from the mouth of the Skeena, 40 from the Naas, and IGO
miles South-east of Fort Wrangel. Sixty miles or more to
the Westward lie

The dueen Charlotte Islands,

The extreme North-westeni land of British Columbia. Count
Zuboflf, a Bussian geologist, who has spent two summers
upon these islands, gives me a very interesting account of their
geography, resources and inhabitants. Their extreme length
is 156 miles, and their greatest width ' 52 miles. Mountains
thickly wooded with cedar, spruce and hemlock, cover most
of their siuface, though Graham Island, one of the largest

of tho group, cnntaiiiH ft tract of tiinhf'rlesH gra/itif^ land HutH-
oiont, it Ik itHtiniatcd, toHupport ovnra thouHand lumd of catth^
Tli(^ cliniato is comparatively mild, and Hnowfall ho liglit that
Htock would Hul)HiHt throughout th« ymr entirely upon the
native gr.iHHCH. It in peopled by tlui H\dahH, evidently of
Asiatic origin, the HneHt Hpecimens, phyHioally, and the most
courageouH of all the native tribuH. They live in villagen upon
i\w HeaKliore, building large and HubHtantial liouseM from
great logH and plankH of cedar. They now number
about 850, but were formerly mu(!h more populouH. Hunting,
finhing, and trapping is their main dependence, though they
are great canoe builders, supplying them to the other tribes,
and also very skillful workers in gold and silver, and carvers
upon wood and slate. Bold and skillful navigators, and war-
like, they ruled among the natives of these northern seas, and
until a comparatively recent date have been hostile to the
whites. Now they are fri«)ndly, and anxious for miosionary
teachers, who are about to establish a school for their in-
struction. The Count has discovered an extensive vein of lignite
and a four foot vein of anthracite coal, and also coal-oil there.
Graham Island has been occupied as a trading post by the
Hudson Bay Company since 18 , and for the last four
years by the Skidegate Oil Company, which is manufacturing
a very excellent lubricating and burning oil from sharks.
They are so numerous in the surrounding waters that the
Company have caught over 5,000 in thirty-six hours, by
means of thousands of strong steel hooks, fastened by cotton
cod lines to a fifteen thread hemp rope, and anchored in
from seven to thirty-five feet of water. At daybreak on the
morning of the 30th we were crossing tlie waters of the en-
trance to the Portland Channel, into which flows the

River Naas.

This stream abounds with salmota, and is the greatest known
resort of the oolachan, which swarm here by the million, and
are caught by the Indians in the Spring of the year in im-
mense numbers. A kit of them salted has just been brought
on deck. They are a bright silver colored fish, smaller than
the heiTing, of more delicate flavor and so rich in oil that when

trr

f* land HiifH-

oiitlofrattlo.

HO liglit tliut

\y ujxm the

«'vitlontly of

11(1 th<^ most

illagoH upon

KmscM from

)w iiinnlter

iH. Hunting,

hough thoy

>thor triben,

and carvers

)r8, and war-

ivn Hoas, and

oHtile to the

miosionary

for thwir iu-

vuin of lignite

coal-oil thtjre.

post by the

he last four

lanufacturiog

from sharks.

kers that the

ix hours, by

led by cotton

anchored in

break on the

rs of the en-

s the

eatest known
B million, and
yeaf in im-
been brought
smaller than
I oil that when

drird thoy burn lik(> a candle. It is extract<;d in huge tpian-
titit'H and forniH antaple artiule of di«^t and barter iinmnif tlie
nativeH. Tliere are alHo two saliuon tinherieH near the mouth
of the river, CroaHdaile <fe Co'h. and Welwu. m1 & (!<)., the
former packing alxmt 7,500 caHCH, and tlie latter soveral
hundred baiTels of salted Halinon this season.

Upwards of a thousand Indians dwell upon the banks of
this river, within seventy-five miles of its mouth, most of
whom are being ruacliod, in their villages of Kincolith,
Greenville, Ahyns and Kitladamax, by missionaries, Dunn,
Green and Robinson, the first sent out by the Episcopal
Church of England, and the two latter by the Wesleyan Meth-
odists of Canada. Mr. Robinson describes them as being
very friendly to the whites, ho having been the only white
man in their \illage of Kitladamax for several mouths at a
time. We are now in the American waters of Alaska, the
Portland Channel being the dividing line between British
Columbia and that Wilderness Possession.

ALASKA.

Alaska is a vast region stretching away 1,400 miles north
from 54 degs. 40 miu., and over 2,000 miles from the Pacific
Ocean Eastward. High, rocky, precipit«ms mountains, thickly
covered with foio.sts of cedar and hemlock, extend over nearly
all that portion embracing the first four hundred miles of
coast, known as Southern Alaska. The interior, so far as ex-
plored, contains a diversified surface of mountains and plains,
lakes, marshes, meadows, lowlands and rolling plateaus,
through which flows a mighty river, the Yukon, as broad as
the Amazon and navigable for 1,500 miles. It is inhabited by
the aboriginal tribes, the Eskimos, Aleutes, Kenaiaus and
Tlinkets, numbering, altogether, perhaps, 25,000 souls. The
climate of Southern Alaska is comparatively mild but very
disagreeable, owing to the excessive rainfall. The winters of
the interior are extremely cold and the summers hot.

There ore about 300 whites in the Territory, mainly at
Sitka, Juneau and Fort Wrangel. Mountains, forests, islands,
straits and channels innumerable, rock-bound shores and

■«P

snow-dad peakn compose the gt ^eral outline of tlie scone
which meets the eye on every hand. Thickly wooded A'ora
the summits of all but the highest peaks, there is scarcely a
spot in all these last hundreds of miles which invites settle-
ment. It is as grand a Avilderness af lies under the dome of
heaven, and abounds in great resources of fish, fur and
minerals, the utilization of which will attract and support
scattering communities, bat beyond this the immigration of a
hundred years will probably make but little change in the
face of Alaska. The climate and soil of the southern coast
especially, is adapted to the growth of grasses, potatoes, car-
rots, turnips, cabbage, etc., but the area susceptible of cul-
tivation is so extremely limited as to practically exclude the
agriculturist. Captain Oakford, Collector of Customs at
Fort Wrangel, told me yesterday that he received frequent
letters from people in the East who thought of coming to
Alaska. One man wrote that he was well provided with ag-
ricultural implements, reapers, mowers, etc,, and wished to
engage in farming on a large scale. Such inquiries indicate
that erroneous views are entertained abroad concerning this
region. It is scarcely possible to exaggerate its resources of
fish, and it is undoubtedly the greatest range both as to
number and quality of valuable fur bearing animals in the
world, and also rich in coal, copper, and gold ; but its habit -
M)le la^ds and timber supplies have been greatly over-esti-
mated. With the exception of a few hundred acres upon the
bottoms and deltas of the rivers, I have not seen nor been
able to hear of any tracts of open arable country exceeding a
few acres in extent. And whUe the forest area is so vast, only
very small portions comparatively are either fit or avail-
able for the manufacture of lumber. There are small bodies
of enormous cedar, or cypress, and scattering tracts of good
spruce, but probably 75 per cent, of the forest comprises
stunted cedar, spruce and hemlock, growing upon scanty
soil, and among the crevices of the rocks, in many places
dying for want of nourishment. Mr. George Williscroft, who
has owned and operated a sawmill at Georgetown, near Fort
Simpson, for eight years, manufacturing about 900,000 feet
of lumber annually for the local market, tolls me that above

■«r

f tlie Hceno

a Hcarcely ii
nvitos settle-
the dome of
sh, fur and
and support
ligrafcion of a
lange in the
utheru coast
potatoes, car-
)tible of cul-
{ exclude the
Customs at
ived frequent
of coming to
ided with ag-
nd wished to
liries indicate
►nceming this
3 I'esources of
e both as to
tiimals in the
»ut its habit -
.tly over-esti-
,cres upon the
sen nor been
y exceeding a
i so vast, only
' fit or avail-
! small bodies
racts of good
!st comprises
upon scanty
many places
illiscroft, who
n\, near Fort
900,000 feet
e that above

Deans' Canal, B. C, th^ Northern limit of the fir or Douglas
pine, though he has examined the oountry thoroughly, he
knows of no good timber in sufficient quantities to warrant
the manufaoture of lumber for the general export trade. At
Fort Wrangle I found Mr. William Woodcock, who has been
in Alaska for several years, swearing over the Bev. Sheldon
Jackson's statement before a Oongressional Committe con-
cerning it, which lay spread out before him. Mr. Jackson
says in substance that the climate and resources of th? coun-
try are such that it is bound to have a lai^e population, but
that he cannot encourage immigration into it until provided
with some form of government, for the security of life and
property. While nearly all agree that it should have a local
magistrate or commissioner with power to enforce law and
order, ^ whom I have consulted, quite a number of traders,
miners, and others who have been in Southern Alaska from
two to fourteen years, are unanimous in the opinion that the
very reasons, the character of its climate and resources, which
Mr. Jackson thinks offer inducements to immigration, will ex-
clude it except to quite a limited extent. Speaking more
from information obtained from such sources than personal
observation, it is difficult to understand how that any man of
intelligence and honesty at all familiar with the country,
could, tmder any circumstances, be induced to recommend it for
colonization by the American people. Its fish, furs and min^-
erals we alone worth more than it cost, and will attract con-
siderable settlements along the Southern coast, and hardy
Northmen wiU doubtless by slow degrees settle in the vast
almost unknown interior, though Alaska may probably' for
generations to come be most fitly described as the " Great
Lone Land."

Heading lor Cape Fox, the abandoned U.S. Fort Ton-
gass and an Lidian village adjoining are seen in the distance
on the right. A little further on the U.S. Coast Survey steamer
Hasler, lying at anchor in a snug little harbor on the left,
sends out a boat and receives her mail. Then steaming on
through the Kevilla Gigido Channel, Duke of Clarence and
Stachinaki ^jtraii», before daylight the 31st I was awakened

IMlli

I ;:

by a loud prolonged chorus froip the wolfish yelping Indian
dogs of

Fort Wrangel, [7."!':

And^oing upon de6k ionod Ute steamer neanng the landing;
The town is 8itui^);ed on Wrangel Island, seven milea^pm t^e
movith of the Stiokeen, 160 South-east of Sitka,. ^d contaone
> V >- aboiit thirty reteddent whit^ and several hundred Indians,

The Presbyterian Indian Misciion Church, the Mc^arlan
Home, and the former Glovemmdnt buildings, are the most
conspicuous among the' 150 or more houses and cabi^fi
. crowded together on ihb pitituresque shore. , The; Indiitn vijir

m lage compriHes several ho^nses ai large jsize built from gre«i;
f cedar logs and planks generally without ' parti:^o^8» but some
having floors, and all an (^n central fireplace^' l^ese are
^ frequently paved with smooth Btoneb, but have no ohimn^#,

the smoke escaping through- tm opening in the roof. The great
cedar posts, three feet in diftmeter supporting the monster ridge
poles, and also columns stiiB^ngin front from forty to Mty
feet in height, were covered from the ground up with rude
grotesque carvings (rf Indians, b«ar, beaver, frogs, fish, eagles,
ravens, and frii^tfiil imaginaty hobgoblins. They ware for-
merly '8upp<ftaed te< be objebtft of worship, but are now known
to represent 'famiiy and tribal totems, crests and heraldic de-
signs. Fort Wtangd is asi important point for the purchase
of Alttskatfui*, and also does a considerable general trade with
ihe liidians and the Cassiar mine«i. Wm. J./Steph(ans, W.
'King' Lear, Benjamin Ijeti, and Oscar Northn^^e the prin-
cip^l traders. > - Mr. ' Stephens showed mera splendid lot of fur
comprising' otter^ beaver, mmk, wolverine^ wolves, lynqi, seal,
and sea liqn, including t^'bull fur-seal over 8^ feet in length.
His shipmentd of fur Im^ seasqn iwere valued at $26^000. This
is also the winter rendezvous of the Cassiar miners. The
principal mmds are sitttated on Pease Greek, 238 miles North-
east, 160 mfles up the Stiokeen river to Glenora, then a port-
age of 86 mfles to the head ofDease Lake, and from thence 18
iaB:^es further by water. The Juneau gold fi<3kis of Alaska
are situated near the moutid of the Takou rives, 160 miles
North-west from Wrangel.

■f-'

ping Indian

the l&ndiog:

ia^pmt|xe

id contajns

id Jbidjana,

e MclS'arlan

.re the most

and cal^i^S

Indian ytIt

hom gre«4:

)is» jbut some

IHxese are

ID ohimn^A,

of. The great

monster ridge

forty to fifty

up with rude

i, fish, eagles,

ley ware for-

te now known

1 heraldic de-

the purchase

tral trade with

3teph»p8, W.

^^0 the prm-

idid lot of for,

«, lynj, seal,

aet in length.

J26^000. This

oainers. The

miles North-

, then a port-

'om thence 18

tds of Alaska

ss, 160 miles

Parties just down from these mines report several claims
paying from 18 to $16 per day.

On the evening of the 31st the Otter turned her bow
homeward. A heavy rain fell during the first night, and in
the morning scores of streams were plunging and flashing
from the snowy summits down the avalanche furrowed sides
of the high, precipitous mountains boirdering the channel of
Bevilla (^igido. S^Ung through the same WOndexfol water-
ways, traversed on the upward voyage, through lou}; stretches
of river-like passages, shadowed by /their niOuntain walls,
across Sounds affording more extended and grander views, —
then tiirough an archipelago of innumerable rock-bound
islands and islets, with arms and inlets reaching out in all
directions, on the 7th of September we arrived safely in
pori &\ Tietoria.

CAR/!).

Victoria, B. C, 2oth Dec, 1882.

In eonalusiomi i tfnder my sincere ihfffihs to Sm-
veyoT'Oencral W. S, Gcre^ and Tkos. Elwyn, Deputy
Provincial Secretary, to tvhom I am under special
obligations for government maps, documents, etc. I
shall soon publish, at San Francisco, a second edition
of " The Watering Places, Health and Pleasure Re-
sorts of the Pacific Coast.'*'' It 'will be a mo ell bound,
illustrated volume, of about 1^0 pages, embracing
descriptions from personal observntions and experi-
ence, of the principal sea-side, lake-side and mountain
resorts and mineral springs from Mexico to A laska.
The follotuing are among the places which tvill be
prominently noticed : Victoria, Puget Sound, Gray^s
Harbor, Shoalwater Bay, Sea View, Iltuaco, Tilla-
mook and Taquina Bays; Wilhoit, Foley'' s, Harbin* s.

MHM

.^tMai^i^.&^.^

Highland, Pierson's, Witter's, Ziegler's, HtmarcTs,
BarthVs, Allen's, Hough's, Calistoga, White Sul-
phur, Congress, Gilroy, Paraiso, Paso Robles, Ar-
royo Grande, Santa Barbara, The Ojai, Arrowhead,
Temescal and Fulton Mineral Springs; Lakes Ta-
hoe and Donner, the Calaveras Big Trees, Tosemite,
Monterey, Pescadero Pebble Beach, Santa Cruz, Santa
Barbara, Nordhoff, Santa Monica, Passadena, San
Gabriel, Orange and San Diego.

Persons desirous (^'obtaining copies of the same at
$2.00, please address me at San Francisco.

N, H. C.

Mr. and Mrs. R. Maynard, of Victoria, the leading pho-
tographic artists of the North-west coast, have the most com-
plete coll ction of British Columbia and Alaska views extant,
They have been taken by Mr. Maynard, personally, for which
purpose he has traveled extensively through the interior, and
along the coast as far north as Portage Bay, within thirty-two
miles of the Yukon.

■■i^' -. -.^,

iBiiiiiiiii

g-ler% HowarcTsy
'og-a, White Sul-
'^aso Robles, Ar-
OJai, Arrowhead^
ings; Lakes Ta-
■ Trees, Tosemite^
anta Cruz, Santa
Passadena, San

ies of the same at
ncisco.

N. H. C.

a, the leading pho-
lave the most com-
laska views extant,
)rsonaIIj, for which
;h the interior, and
f, within thirtjr-two

mmsammmmm