IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) ill 1.0 1.1 ■a 121 |2.J b& 12.0 IT us u 11:25 i 1.4 m 4^^' '» Hiotographic ^Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ■17 \\ w \ ' signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds A des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est f ilmd A partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 6 e 4 I ; I V ai'C-*-^^ LETTERS AND SKETCHES WITH A NARRATIVE OF A YKARS RI<:SII)r:\( i: AMO\(i THE INDIAN TRIBES OF ®l)c ttockj) itloiiutnins. I By P. J. DE SMET, 8. .1. I'UULISHED BY M. FITHIAX, Gl \. SECOND STREET. 1843. PREFACE. To THOSE who love their country, ;iiul their fellow men, we present this interesting Narrative, with the hope, we might say, the certainty, that its perusal will afford them some moments of the purest gratification. We liave seldom met any thing more entertaining. Its simple, manly eloquence enchants the attention. The facts it makes known to us of the " far, far West," the dispositions and habits of the Indian Tribes who roam over the vast region of the Oregon, their present state and future prospects, are such as cannot fail to awaken lively interest in all who love to look around them be- yond the narrow horizon of every-day scenes, and learn what the holy servants of God are doing for His sake and in His name in distant parts of the world. We have conversed with the apostolic man from whose pen we receive this narrative ; and as we listened we felt at once honoured and delighted to be so near one who in our days and in his own person brings before us that lofty spirit of missionary devotedness — those thrilling scenes of Indian life and adventure which we so much admire in the pages of Charlevoix and Bancroft. VI I-riKFACH. Truly our country is full ol" intcrc.«it to those who watch its progress, and compare if. with the past. Who, for example, could have dreamt that the Iro(|Uois, the savage Mohawk, — under which name wo hest know the tribe, and whose startling yell so often made our fore- fathers tremble, — would have been chosen to kindle the first faint sparks of civilization and Christianity among a huge portion of the Indian tribes beyond the Rocky Mountains ? This is one of the singular facts which these pages present to us. They abound in others not less singular and interesting. Many of these Indian na- tions actually thirst after the waters of life — sigh for the day when the real " Long down" is to appear among them, and even send messengers thousands of miles to hasten his coming. Such longing after God's holy truth, while it shames our colder piety, should also cnllame every heart to pray fervently that labor- ers may be found for this vast vineyard — and open every hand to aid the holy, self-devoted men, who, leaving home and friends and country, have buried themselve^J in these wilds with their beloved Indians, to live for them and God. One of their favourite plans at this moment is to introduce among them a taste for agri- culture, with the means to pursue it. They believe it to be the speediest, perhaps the only way by which the Indians may be won from the wandering life they now rRKFA( K. VII > those who past. Who, ro(|Uois, the est know the (Ic our forc- to kindle the unity among tl the Rocky facts which in others not le Indian na- ife — sigli for s to appear thousands of after God's ►ietv, should \f that iabor- — and open men, who, lavc buried d Indians, to rite plans at iste for agri- ly believe it ly which the fe they now in general lead and from the idle habits it engenders. To aid them in this philanthropic object is our sacred duty as men, as Americans, as Christians. It is at least one method of atonement for the countless wrongs which these unfortunate races have received from the whites. We should be grateful to have such an opportunity of doing good: let none suder the occasion to pass unhon- oured by some tribute to the noble cause — some evi- dence of their love for God, their country and their fel- low man. The frontispiece is from the pencil of one of the In- dian Missionaries. It ble»ids the skill of the artist with the fancy of the poet, and will hardly be understood without a word of explanation. In the foreground we see several of the gigantic trees of the Oregon forests, fallen and crossing each other. On these repose two wolves, a squirrel and several serpents. AbovT, two Indian chiefs, sur- named in baptism after the great Apostles of the Gen- tiles, Peter and Paul, are supporting a large basket of hearts, — an ofFcring to heaven from the grateful wil- derness. On the right are the emblems of Indian life and warfare : the bow and arrows, battle-axe and shield. Below and above these are seen some of the most remarkable animals of the country — the bear, the i Vlll PREFACE. wild horso, llio hadgcr, the graceful antelope, inter- mingled with the plover, the pigeon, the wood-cock, the bittern, and other birds of the region. On the left arc the peaceful symbols of Christianity — the Hible and the Cross, the chalice and altar lights — the anchor, symbol of faith and hope — the trumpet, to proclaim the word of Ciod and bid the desert bless His holy name. Here too we behold several of the noble animals of the t(Tritory — the butlalo, the deer and elk, the mountain sheep and diilerent birds. In the distance arc seen on the riL'ht, Indian mounds, and a water-spout rising from the river Platte, and on the left, the Rocky Mountains surmounted by the Cross. Festoons, composed of the various flowers the Fathers have met on their way over mountains and prairies and through lonely vallies, com- plete the picture — the whole supported at the extre- mities by difFerent birds of the country, and in the cen- tre by the American eagle, — fit emblem, we may say, of their own dauntless faith, as well as of the heroic spirit of the nation within whose borders they have their princi- pal station, and from whose genuine piety they have received the most consoling assurances of final success, viz : the Flat Head Indians and the Pends-d'oreilles, who are styled, even by their foes, the " nation of chiefs. >» I 'i l'KKt\( F,. IX pc, intcr- ■cock, the c Id't arc iil)Ie and i anchor, claim the 'y name, lis of the nountain ) seen on ing from ountains d of the vay over es, com- 3 extre- the cen- y say, of spirit of r princi- jy have success, areiJies, ition of ()iic(; uioru we caniolly coniinciHl tlic no'jje cause of Oicsc ticvoled Missioiiarics to the charilv I'f every sin- cere (.'iiri-rtian. The short time- allowrd to prepare the Work for the presd niiM I.e our apology for several ini- j)erfer(ioiLS or errors wiiich may meet the eye of the reader. *#* Wherever the word " calrnut" occurs, read calu- nicf. 1 II 4 BOOK I. Dies vcnit, dies tiia In qua reilorent omnia, Laelcmur et nos in viam, Tua rediicti dcx-tera. The days ofsprinjr arc drawing near \Vhen all thy /lowers will rc-am)ear. And wo redccmfd hy thy right hand, Jihall walk in gladness thro' the land liJ I 1 1 ; ■;! lY' i LETTER 1. J ■1^ if, 'A St. Louis University, Feb. 4, 1841. TO THE REV. F. J. H. Rev. and Dear Sir: I PRESUME you are aware, that in the beginning of last Spring, I was sent by the Right Rev. Bishop of St. Louis, and my Provincial, on an exploring expedition to the Rocky Mountains, in order to ascertain the dispositions of the Indians, and the prospects of success we might have if we were to establish a mission among them. It is truly gratifying to me lo have so favorable a report to make. — My occupations do not allow me to enter into all the de- tails ; I shall therefore be satisfied at present with giving you a brief sketch of my journey and its result. I started from Westport on the 30th of April, in company with the Annual Expedition of the American Fur Compa- ny, which for this year had appointed the rendezvous on Green River, a tributary of the Rio Colorado of the West. Captain Dripps, who commanded the caravan, treated me on all occasions with the most polite attention. On the 6th day of our journey I was seized with the fever and ague, and have been subject to it for nearly five months. Noth- ing particularly worth noticing, occurred during the jour- ney, except, when we halted in the village of the Sheyen- nes. I was introduced to the Chiefs as a minister of the Great 2 14 Description of a Battle. i.i \\'\ Spirit: ihey showed me great deference, and I was invited to a feast. I had to pass al first through all the ceremonies of the Calmut ; tlie great chief approached me to shake hands, and gave me a heartfelt "How do you do." — "Blackgown," said he, "my heart was filled with joy when I learned who you were. My lodge never received a visitor for whom I feel a greater esteem. As soon as I was apprised of your coming, I ordered my great kettle to be filled, and in your honor, I commanded that my three fattest dogs should be served up." The bravest warriors of the nation partook of the repast, and I availed myself of the opportunity to explain to them the most important tenets of Christianity. 1 loid them the object of my visit, and enquired whether they would not be satisfied to have also Black-gowns among them, who would teach them to love and serve the Great Spirit, as !ie wished. "Oh yes," they eagerly answered, " we will gladly provide for every thing that they stand in need of; they will not die of hun- ger amongst us." I have no doubt but a zealous mission- ary would do a great deal of good among them. They are about two thousand in number. Their language, it is said, is very difficult. On the 30th of June we arrived at the rendezvous. An escort of warriors had been provided for me by the Flat-heads. Our meeting was that of children who come to meet their parent, and in the ellusion ofiheir heart, they bestowed upon me the fondest names with a sim- plicity truly patriarchial. They told me of all the interest- ing particulars of their nation, and of the wonderful pre- servation of sixty of their men, in a battle against two hun- dred Black-feet, which lasted five whole days, and in which they killed fifty of their enemies, without losing a single man of their nuaiber. " The Great Spirit watched over them ;" they said, " he knew that we were to guide you to \\'i ^"J ' Has invited " t''e ceremonies '^^'^ me to sliake ^o }ou do."-. filled Hill, JQy never received • As soon as I y great iveliJe lo '' "'at my three 'f^^'est tvnrriors '^'ileil myself of fnost important -et of my visit, '"'sfied lo iiave ^eaclj tliem to '• "01, yes," ^vhle for every JottiieofJiun- aloiJs mission- "• They are 'S^e, a is said, "■'■'''ed at the provided for ' «f thiijren s'o/i of their *^ w i«li a sim- ihc iniersst- "tierfui pre. 'St two Uun. "J 'n wliich "g" a single Itched over »J'tJe you (0 I I I I I I 11 I I o ■^ i» Celebration of the first aMuss. 15 15 2 n X o i-S our camp, and he wanted to clear the road of all llie obsta- cles that you might have found on your way. We trust we will not be annoyed any more by ihc IJlackfeel; they went off weeping like women." We thanked heaven for the signal preservation, and implored its assistance for the new and perilous journey we were on the point of undertaking. The Indians of diflercnt nations and the trappers, had as- sembled at the rendezvous in great numbers, for the sake of the trade. On Sunday, the fifth of July, I had the consola- tion of celebrating the holv sacrifice of Mass sub dio. The altar was placed on an elevation, and surrounded with boughs and garlands of flowers; I addressed the congrega- tion in French and in English, and spoke also by an inter- preter to the Flat-head and Snake Indians. It was a spec- tacle truly moving for the heart of a Missionary, to behold an assembly composed of so many difl'orent nations, who all assisted at our holy mysteries with great satisfaction. — The Canadians sung hymns in French and Latin, and the Indians in their native tongue. It was truly a Catholic worship. . . . Tiiis place has been called since that time, by the French Canadians, la prairie de la Messe. About thirty of the principal chiefs of the Snake Indians invited me to a council. 1 explained to them the christian doctrine in a compendious manner — they were all very attentive — they then deliberated among themselves for about t\3lf an hour, and one of the chiefs, addressing me in the name of the others, said: " IJlack-gown, the words of thy mouth have found their way to our hearts; they never will be forgotten. Our country is open for thee; come to teach us what we have to do, to please the Great Spirit, and we will do according to thy words." I advised them to select among themselves a wise and prudent man, who, every morning and evening, should assemble thera to offer 16 Ji Council Meeting. hi ! 1 to Almighty God their prayers and supplications ; thai there the good cliiefs shonhl have an opportunity of exhorting their warriors to behave as they ought. Tlie meeting was held tlic very same evening, and the great cliief promulga- ted a law, that for the future, the one who would be guilty of theft, or of any other disorderly act, should receive a public castigation. On Monday, 6ih, we proceeded on our journey. A dozcH Canadians wished to accompany me, to have an opj)ortuniiy, as they said, to practise their religion. Eight days afterwards we arrived safely in the camp of the Flat-licads, and Ponderas, or Pends d'oreilles. Immediately ilie wiiole village was in commotion ; men, women and children, all came to meet me, and shake hands, and I was conducted in triumph to the lodge of the great chief Tjclizhitzay, (the IJig face.) He has the ap- pearance of an old patriarch. Surrounded by the principal chiefs of the two tribes, and tlie most renowned warriors, he thus addressed me: "This day Kaikolinzosten (the Great Spirit) has accomplished our wishes, and our liearts are swelled with joy. Our desire to bo instructed was so great, that three times had we deputed our people to the Great Black-gown* in Si. Louis, to obtain a father. Now, Father, speak, and we willconjply with all you will tell us. Show us the road we have to follow, to come to the place where the Great Spirit resides." Then he resigned his authority to me ; but I replied that he mistook the object of my coming among them ; that I had no other object in view, but their spiritual welfare; that with respect to tem- poral aflairs, they should remain as they were, till circum- stances should allow them to settle in a permanent spot. — Afterwards we deliberated on the hours proper for their 1 * The Bishop. » (ft' t ill 1 thai there exhorting seling was promulga- tl be guilty 1 receive a iceeded on iccompany actise their ft'ly in the I d'oreilles. lion ; men, and shake idge of the las the ap- e principal \ warriors, ;oslen (the our liearts ed was so pie to the r. Now, u will tell me to the resigned the object object in t to tem- 11 circum- It spot. — for their Morninsc and Evenins: Demotion. 17 spiritual exercises and instructions. One of the chiefs brought me a bell, with which I might give the signal. The same evening about 2,000 persons were assembled before my lodge to recite night prayers in common. I told ihem the result of my conference with the chiefs ; of the plan of instructions which I intended to pursue ; and with what disposition they ought to assist at them, etc. Night prayers having been said, a solemn canticle of praise of their own composition, was sung by these children of the mountains, to the Author of their being. It would be im- possible for me to describe tiie emotions I felt at this moment; I wept for joy, and admired the marvellous ways of that Kind i^rovidence, who, in his intinite mercy, had deigned to depute me to this poor people, to announce to them tiic glad tidings of salvalioH. The next day I as- sembled the council, and with the assistance of an intelli- gent interpreter, I translated into their language the Lord's Prayer, tije Hail Mary, the Apostles' Creed, the ten Com- mandments, and four Acts. As 1 was in the habit of re- citing these prayers, morning and evening, and before in- structions, about a forlnigl.t after, I promised a beautiful silver medal to the one who would recite them first. One of the chiefs rising immediately, "Father," said lie, smiling, '' that medal is mine," and he recited all the prayers without missing a word. I embraced liim, praised the eagerness which he had evinced of being instructed, and appointed him my Cathecist. This good Indian set to work with so much zeal and perseverance, that in less than a fortnight all knew their prayers. Every morning, at the break of day, the old chief is the first on horseback, and goes round the camp from lodge to lodge. "Now my children," he exclaims, *'il is time to rise; let the first thoughts of your hearts be lor the Great 2» rrr- 18 Six hundred baptized. Ill "-!| U ' .< t f ' ■ ll iJ I . Spirit; say ihat you love him, and beg of him to be merci- ful unto you. Make haste, our Fallier will soon ring the bell, open your ears to listen, and your hearts to receive the words of his mouth." Then, if he has perceived any dis- orderly act on the preceding day, or if he has received unfavorable reports from the other chiefs, he gives them a fatherly admonition. Who would not think, that this could only be found in a well ordered and religious community, and yet it is among Indians in the detiles and vallies of the Rocky Mountains ! ! ! You have no idea of the eagerness they showed to receive religious instruction. I explained the christian doctrine four times a day, and nevertheless ray lodge was filled, the whole day, with people eager to hear more. At night I related those histories of the Holy Scrip- tures that were best calculated to promote their piety and edification, and as I happened to observe, that I was afraid of tiring them, *' oh no," they replied, " if we were not afraid of tiring you, we would gladly spend here the whole night." 1 conferred the holy sacrament of Baptism on six hun- dred of them, and if I thought it prudent to postpone the baptism of others till my return, it was not for want of desire un their part, but chiefly to itnpress upon their minds a greater idea of the holiness of the sacrament, and of the dispositions that are required to receive it worthily. Among tliose baptised, were the two great chiefs of the Flat- heads and of the Ponderas. As I excited the catechumens to a heartfelt contrition of their sins, the IValking Bear, chief of the Ponderas, answered: "Father, I have been plunged for a number of years in profound ignorance of good and evil, and no doubt, during that time, 1 have often greatly displeased the Great Sj)irits and therefore 1 must humbly beseech his pardon. But wlien I afterwards con- ■-7 A farewell Address. 19 be merci- \ ring the eceive the J any ilis- s received ves them a this could ammuniiy, lies of the eagerness [ explained theless my Tcr to hear loly Sciip- piety and was afraid e were not the whole In six hun- isipone the lor want of upon their tnent, and worthily, f the Flat- echumens ' Bear, Ihave been lioranco of have often ire 1 must ards con- ceived that a thing was bad, 1 banished it from njy heart, and I do not recollect to have since deliberately otl'eniled the Clreai Spirit." Truly, where such dispositions are found, we may well conclude that a rich harvest is to be gathered. 1 remained two months among these good people, and every day they were adding to my consolations, by tlieir fervor in prayer, by their assiduity in coming to my in- structions, and by their docility in putting into practice what they had been taught. Tiie season being far advanced, and as I had waited in vain for a safe opportunity to return to St. Louis, I resolved to commit myself entirely to Providence, and on the 7lh of August, I took leave of my dear Neophytes. 1 appointed one of the cjiiefs to replace me during my absence, who should preside in their evening and morning devotions, and on the Sabbath exhort them to virtue, baptize the little children, and those who were dangerously ill. Grief was depicted on the features of all, and tears were glistening in every eye. The old chief addressed me, saying, " Father, the Great Spirit accompany thee in thy long and dan'^erous voyage; every day, morning and evening, we will address to him our humble supplications, that thou mayest arrive safely among thy brethren. And wc will continue to do so, till thou be again among thy children of the mountains. We are now like the trees that have been spoiled of their verdure by winter's blast. When the snow will have disappeared from these vallies, and the grass begins to grow, our hearts will begin to tejoice ; when the plants will spring forth our joy will increase; when they blossom, it will still be greater, and then we will set out to meet you. Farewell, Father, farewell." The Chiefs would not suffer me to depart by myself — 20 Efficacy of Religion Explained. \\ f»i thirty of the bravest warriors were lU-piilcd as a safeguard to traverse the counlry of tlie Black-feet, who are very hostile to the whiles, and they were instructed to accompa- ny me, as far as need would be of their assistance. I re- solved to take on my return a dilTercnt route from the one I had taken in coming. I was induced to do so, in order to visit the Forts of the American Fur Company on the Missouri, and on the Yellow Stone, to baptize the children. After five or six days travelling, we fell in with a war patty of the Crow Indians, who received us very kindly, and we travelled together for two days. Then we directed our course to the Big Horn, the most considerable of the tribu- tary streams of the Yellow Slone. There we met another party of the same nation, who were also amicably disposed towards us. As there was question about religion, I availed myself of the opportunity to express to them the main arti- cles of the Christian faith, and as I was depicting in lively colors the torments of hell, and had told them that the Great Spirit had kindled this fire of his wrath, for those who did not keep the commandments I had explained to them, one of the Chiefs uttered a horrid shriek. " If this be the case," said he, '• then I believe there are but two in the whole nation who will not go to that place ; it is the Beaver and the Mink ; they are the only Crows who never stole, who never killed, nor committed all the excesses which your law prohibits. Perhaps I am deceived, and then we must all go together." When 1 left them on the next day, the Chief put a fine bell on my horse's neck, and invited me to take a turn round the village. Next, he accompa* nied me for six miles. After several days of a painful journey over rocks and cliffs, we arrived at last at the fort of the Crows. It is the first the American Fur Company possessed in that country. ■i I snfeguanl 1 are very accompa- ince. 1 re- in ihc one 1 in order lo iny on the lie children, a war paiiy kindly, and directed our if the iribu- met anolher )ly disposed on, I availed le main arli- ing in lively at ihe Great ose who did ,0 ihem, one this be the two in the the Beaver never stole, esses which nd then we lie next day, and invited e accompa- rocks and . It is the hat country. 1 i /'ass(rj;c through a ilani^crous Count nj. 21 My dear Flril-hcads cdilied all the inhabitants by their fervor and ilicir piety. As well in the I'orl, as on tlio road, wc never niissed perforniiiij,' in common, our evening and moriiini; ilcvotioiis, and binj^ing canticles in honor of the Almi<4lity. Frequently, dining my stay with them, they had given me sihutidant jirools of their trust in I'.ovidence. 1 cannot forbear incniioning one iiisiancc that occurred du- ring my travels in this place. One day as dinner was pre- paring and provisions scarce, a countryman ot mine, who a(;comj»anied nic, suggested the piopricty of lveej)ing some- thing in reserve for t^upper. " IJe not uneasy," said the chief, called Ensyla, "I never missed my supper in my life. 1 trust in the mercy of the Great Spirit, he will pro- vide for all our wants." We had just camped at night, when the chief killed two slags. " Did 1 not tell you right?" he remarked, smilingly, to my companion. " You sec the Great Spirit does not only provide for our wants of this evening, but he gives us also a supply for to-morrow." Now began the most dilliculi and most perilous part of our journey. 1 had to pass through a country suppoj«ed lo be overrun by war parlies, of the iJlack-feet, Assineboins, Gros Ventres, Arikaras, and Scioux. All these nations en- tertained the most hostile disjiositions towards the Fiat- heads. I therefore dispensed with their services any far- ther. I again cxcitsjd them to continue the good work they had begun; to be steadfast in their failh ; regular in their devotions ; charitable towards one another. 1 em- braced them all and took my leave. Mr. John de Velder, a native of Ghent in Belgium, had volunteered his services lo me at the Rendezvous. In consideration of the bad state of my health, I deemed myself very happy to accept of ihem ; he has never left me since. He was now to be my only travelling companion. As there is no road, we fol- lowed the direction of the river ; at intervals we were "T 22 Feast on a Ihiffalo. obliged to make immense circuits to avoid the steep and craggy liills that defied our pnssai^e. For two hundred miles, wo had continually death bel'oro our eyes. On the second day, I discovered before dayliijht a large smoke at a distance of about a quarter of a mile. >Ve hastily sad- dled our horses and following up a ravine we gained a high blufT unperceivcd. At night wc did not dure to make fire for fear of attracting notice. Again about dinner time, we found on the road the carcase of a BuHalo, killed only two hours before; the tongue and the marrow bunes with some other dainty pieces had been taken away. Thus the kind providence of our Ciod took care to .supply our wants. Wc took a direction contrary lo the tracks of the Indians, and spent a safe night in the cliil's of the rocks. The next day we struck upon a spot where forty lodges had been encamped, the fires were yet in full blaze. Finally, we crossed the Missouri at the same place where, only an hour before, a hundred lodges of ill-minded Assineboins had passed, and we arrived safe and unmolest- ed at Fort Union, situated a few miles above the mouth of the Yellow Stone. In all these Forts great harmony and union prevail; Mr. Kipps, the present administrator of them, is a gentleman well worthy of his station. Every where I was treated by these gentlemen with the greatest politeness and kindness, and all my wants were liberally Mupplied. As I was relating the particulars of this dange- rous trip to an Indian Chief, he answered: *^ The Great Spirit has his Maniloos ; lie has sent them to take care of your steps and to trouble the enemies that would have been a nuisance to you." A Christian would have said : Angelis suis mandavit de te, ut custodiant te in omnibus viis tuis.* ♦ *' He has given his angels charge of thee, that they guard thee in all thy ways." Btccp anil ) hundred . On ihe smuke at aslily sad- iicd a higli make fire r lime, we lI only iwo Willi some js ihe kind kvunls. he Indians, The nexl s had been same place f illininded I unmolesl- e moulh of rmony and lislrator of 1)11. Every le greatest ire liberally this dange- The Great ake care of have been d : Angells viis tuis.* they guard A Nation nearlij destroyed by Small Pox. 23 5 On 23tl of September wc set ont for the village of llic Man- dans, in ''ompany with three men of the fort, who had the famn destination. Wc met on the road a party of 10 As- sincboiiis, who were reluming to their country from an un- •ncccssiful expedition agninst the CJros Ventres. 'J'hcir looks indicated their bad intentions: although we were but five in nnmber, wo ehowtnl a determined countenance, and we passed nnmole>ln(l. Next day we crossed a forest, the winter quarters of the Gros Ventres, and Arikaras, in 1835. I It was there that those unfortunate tribes were nearly ex- terminated by the small jiox. We saw their bodies wrap- ped up in Dulfalo robes, tied to the branches of the largest trees. It was truly a sad and mournful spectacle. Two days later we met the miserable survivors of these unhappy tribes. Only ten families of the INIandan?, once such a pow- erful nation, now remain. They have united with the Gros Ventres and Arikaias. They received me with great demonstrations of frieudship; I spent that night in their camp, and the next day crossed the Missouri in their canoe, made of a buHulo skin. The next dav wc came to the first villaiie of the Arikaras, and on the following day to their great village, consisting of about a hundred earthen wig-warns. This tribe also received me very kindly. On the 0th of October we started from the IManilan village, for Fort Pierre, on the little Missouri ; a Canadian, whose des- tination lay in lh6 same direction, accompanied us. The Commandant of the Fort had recommended to us in a spe- cial manner to be on our guard against the Jantonnois, the Sanlees, Jauious, Aukepatines, Ampapas, Ogallallast and Black-feet Scioux, who have often proved very trouble- some lo white strangers. On the third day of our journey we fell in with an ambui^cadc of the Jantonnois and San- tecs ; they did not do us any Iiarm, but on the contrary 24 A Surprise. M 'i(. [} Ml t I- : 1 I I i I'l! |li f treated us very kindly, and at our departure loaded us with provisions. The next day we fell in with several other parties, who showed us much kindness. On the ninth day we were on tlie lands of the Black-feet Scioux ; this coun- try is undulating and intersected with numherlcss little streat.is. For greater caution we travelled in ravines. Towards dinner time, a fine landscape, near a delicious spring, seemed to invite us to take some repose. We had scarcely alighted, when all on a sudden a tremendous yell alarmed us, and from the top of the hill under which we were, the Black-feet darted upon us like lightning. ♦' Why do you hide yourselves?" asked the Chief, in a stern voice. ♦• Are you afraid of us?" Dressed in my cassock with a crucifix on my breast, — a costume I always wear in the In- dian country, — it appeared to me that I was the subject of his particular enquiry. He asked the Canadian what kind of a man I was. The Frenchman said I was a Chief, a Black-gown, the man who spoke to the Great Spirit. He assumed immediately a milder countenance, ordered his men to lay down their arms, and we performed the cere- monies of shaking hands and smoking the calmut of peace. He then invited me to accompany them to the village, situ- ated only at a short distance. It consisted of about a thou- sand souls. I pitched my tent at some distance, in a beau- tiful pasture, on the margin of a fine stream, and invited the great chief to partake of a supper with me. As I said grace before meal, he enquired of the Canadian what I was about. He is addressing the Great Spirit, was the reply, in grati- tude for the food he has granted us. The chief nodded a sign of approbation. Shortly after, twelve warriors, in full costume, stretched a large bufl'alo robe before the place where I sat. The chief, taking me by the arm, invited me to sit down. I was under the impression that there was .^' 1 eil us with /eral oilier J ninth day this coun- 3rlcs8 little in ravines, a delicious . We had endous yell which we g. »♦ Why stern voice, sock with a ir in the In- ; subject of adian what vas a Chief, Spirit. He ordered his ed the cere- ut of peace, illage, situ- 30ut a thou- , in a beau- invited the I said grace was about, y, in grati- |ef nodded a iors, in full the place invited me there was Eagerness for Instruction. 25 question again of smoking the calmul. Judge of my as- tonishment, when the twelve warriors, seizing each a piece of the robe, took me up, and headed by their chief, carried me in triumph to their village. In the lodge of the great chief the most conspicuous place was assigned mo, and he addressed me thus : " 'I'his day is the happiest of my life. For the first time do we behold among us a man who is so closely united with the Great Spirit. Black-gown, you see before you the chief warriors of my tribe ; I have invited them to this feast, in order tliat they may keep the remem- brance of your coming among us as long as tliey shall live." Then he invited me to speak again to the Great Spirit, (to say grace) I began in the name of the Father and of the Son, etc., and immediately all present lifted up their hands towards heaven ; when I had concluded they all struck the ground. I asked the chief what they meant by this cere- mony. " When we lift up our hands," said he, " we sig- nify^hat all our dependence is on the Great Spirit, and that he in his fatherly care provides for all our wants : we strike the ground to signify that we are only worms and misera- ble creeping beings in his sight." He asked me in hie turn, what I had told to the Great Spirit. Unhappily, the Canadian was a poor interpreter, still I endeavored to make them understand, as well as I could, the Lord's Prayer. The chief showed great eagerness to know what I said. — He ordered his son and two other very intelligent young men to accompany me to the fort, in order to learn the prin- ciples of the Christian doctrine, and to be at the same time a safeguard against the Indians who might be inimically <1ispo?ed towards us. Two days afterwards wo met an Indian, whose horse was bending under a load of buffalo meat. Seeing us without provisions, he requested us to accept what we might stand in need gf, advising ub to tak« 3 p ill! 26 Reconciliation between two Nations. Ill' r III nil •'' I, < ' ; I 1^. Ill: Hi the whole, for, said he, in the vicinity of the fort, game is very scarce. Five days afte wards we arrived at Fo.t Pierre. Thence I travelled through prairies for nin^ieen days successively. We were often obliged to cook our victuals with dried herbs — not a stick was to be found. When I arrived at Fort Vermillion, I was apprised that the Santees had been on a warlike expedition against the Potiawatomies, of liie Council Bluffs, among whom I had labored the two preceding years. I invited them to a council, and gave them a severe re- primand for violating the solemn promise they had made me the preceding year, of living with their neighbors on amicable terms. I showed them the injustice of attacking a peaceable nation without being provoked ; the dreadful consequences of the Pottawatomies' revenge, that might end in the extinction of their tribe. I was requested to be once more the mediator, and they told me that they had resolved to bury the tomahawk forever. I had lost two horses on the road ; the one I was riding could hardly support me any longer, and I was yet three hundred miles distance from the Council Bluffs. I resolved of course to embark on the Missouri, and engaged a native Iroquois to be my pilot. At first we were favored with fine weather, but this lasted only a few days. Very soon inclement weather set in with frost and snow ; and several times as we drifted down the rapid stream, our frail canoe was on the point of being dashed to pieces against the numberless snags that obstruct its navigation. This dan- gerous trip lasted ten days. We generally spent the night on a sand bar. We had only a few frozen potatoes left when we perceived a beautiful deer gazing at us, and appa- rently waiting to receive its mortal blow. We shot at it. Prepartions to return. 27 't, game is d at FoA )r ninPieen I cook our < be found, prised that ;)gainst the 'hom I had I severe re- ' had made iighbors on if attacking he dreadful that might lested to be ^t they had was riding s yet three I resolved ed a native ored with Very soon nd several frail canoe gainst the This dan- the night tatoes left and appa- Ishot at it. At last we arrived safe at the blufls, and on the same night the river was closed by ice. So many escapes from the midst of so many dangers tho« roughly convinced me that this undertaking is the work of God — omnia disponens fortiter et ad finem suam conducens suaviter. (Who reacheth from end to end mightily, and ordereth all things sweetly.) I am now preparing for my return, and will start early in Spring, accompanied by three Fathers and as many IJrothers. You are aware such expe- ditions cannot be undertaken without the necessary means, and the fact is, I have no other reliance than Provi- dence and the kindness of my friends. I hope they will not be wanting. I know that you must feel deeply interest- ed in this meritorious good work, I therefore take the liber- ty of recommending it to your generosity, and that of your (Viends — every litUe contribution will help. I will be very grateful to you, if you have the kindness to forward to my address at the St. Louis University, Mo., before the end of March, or middle of April, the amount you have collected. I recommend myself and my dear Neophytes to your good prayers and holy sacrifices, and rest assured that we shall not forget our benefactors. r. J. De Smet, S. J. ^ V. ' LETTER II. ' i 'i!:i m m I h !!( TO THE REV. FATHER ROOTHAAN, GENERAL OF THE SOCIETY OF JESUsS, University of Si. Louis, 7th Feb. 1841. Verv Rev. Father: In a letter, which I suppose has been communicated to you, I informed the Bishop of St. Louis of the results, as fat as they bear on religion, of my journey to the Rocky Mountains. But that letter, though lengthy, could give you but a very imperfect idea of the desert which I passed six months in traversing, and of the tribes who make it the scene of their perpetual and sanguinary rivalship. It will, therefore, I think, be useful to resume tht history of my mission ; and I repeat it the more willingly, since I am called to penetrate again into those deep solitudes, from which, I may, peihaps, never return. To my brethren, who take an interest in my dear Indians, I owe an account of all my observations upon their character and customs, upon the aspect and resources of the country they inhabit, and upon their dispositions, that they may know how far ihey are favorable to the propagation of the Gospel. We arrived the 18th of May upon the banks of the Ne- braska, or Eig Horn, which is called by the French by the less suitable name of the Fiat River. It is one of the most magnificent rivers of North America. From its source, which is hidden among the remotest mountains of this vast continent, to the river Missouri, of which it is a tri- butary, it receives a number of torrents descending from the J I A Sea of Islands. 29 >F THE b. 1841. jnicaled to I results, as tlie liocky could give 3h 1 passed make it the }. It will, tory of my ince I am udes, from brethren, an account customs, y inhabit, w how far el. f the Ne- French by ne of the From its untains of it is atri- from the Rocky Mountains ; it refreshes and fertilizes immense val- lies, and forms at its mouth the two great geographical di- visions of the upper and lower Missouri. As we proceeded up this river, scenes more or less picturesque opened upon our view. In the middle of the Nebraska, thousands of islands, under various aspects, presented nearly every form of lovely scenery. I have seen some of those isles, which, at a distance, might be taken for flotillas, mingling their full sails with verdant garlands, or festoons of flowers; and as the current flowed rapidly around them, they seemed, as it were, flying on the waters, thus completing the charming illusion, by this apparent motion. The tree which the soil of these islands produces in the greatest abundance, is a species of while poplar, called cotton tree; the savages cut it in winter, and make of the bark, which appears to have a good taste, food for their horses. Along the banks of the river, vast plains extend, where we saw, from time to time, innumerable herds of wild An- telopes. Further on, we met with a quantity of buflaloes' skulls and bones, regularly arranged in a semicircular form, and painted in different colors. It was a monument raised by superstition, for the Pawnees never undertake an expedi- tion against the savages who may be hostile to their tribe, or against the wild beasts of the forest, without commen- cing the chase, or war, by some religious ceremony, per- formed amidst these heaps of bones. At the sight of them our huntsmen raised a cry of joy ; they well knew that the plain of the bufl'aloes was not far ofl', and they expressed by these shouts the anticipated pleasure of spreading havoc among the peaceful herds. Wishing to obtain a commanding view of the hunt, I got up early in the morning and quitted the camp alone, in or- der to ascend a hillock near our tents, from which I might 3* 'fjT" I 5 -| 1, 1 ! *| iii' i it, I I ij I I I ! ! ; if. it : '1 •'ii ■ ;! i if ill .r I ( . •' it I •;» I ■I'i iiil 30 Wolves enjoying a Feast. fully view the widely extended pasturages. After crossinf some ravines, 1 reached an eminence, whence I descried a plain, whose radius was about twelve miles, entirely co- vered with wild oxen. You could not form, from any thing in your European markets, an idea of their movement and multitude. Just as I was beginning to view them, I heard shouts near me; it was our huntsmen, who rapidly rushed down upon the affrighted herd — ihe buffalos fell in great numbers beneath their weapons. When they were tired with killing them, each cut up his prey, put behind him his favorite part, and retired, leaving the rest for the voracity of the wolves, which are exceedingly nu- merous in these places, and they did not fail to enjoy the repast. On the following night I was awakened by a confused noise, which, in the fear of the moment, I mistook for impending danger. I imagined, in my first terror, that the Pawnees, conspiring to dispute with us the passage over their lands, had assembled around our camp, and that these lugubrious cries were their signal of attack. — " Where are we," said 1, abruptly, to my guide. "Hark ye ! — Rest easy," he replied, laying down again in his bed ; " we have nothing to fear ; it is the wolves that are howling with joy, afier their long winter's hunger : they are making a great meal to-night on the carcasses of the buffalos, which our huntsmen have left after them on the plain." On the 28th, we forded the southern arm of the river Platte. All the land lying between tjjis river and the great mountains is only a heath, almost universally covered with lava and other volcanic substances. This sterile country, says a modern traveller, resembles, in nakedness and the monotonous undulations of its soil, the sandy deserts of Asia. Here no permanent Jwelling has ever been erected, and even the huntsman seldom appears in the best seasons of the year. At all other times the grass is withered, the A barren Desert, ' 81 er crossing descried a jntirely co- from any movement B\v lliem, I ^Iio rapidly 'alos fell in ihey were put behind le rest for idingly nu- ll lo enjoy kened by a , I mistook terror, that ihe passage ), and that attack. — "Hark in his bed ; re howling are making OS, which ■ the river d the great vered with e country, ss and the deserts of !n erected, !st seasons hered, the Blreams dried up; the bufTaio, tlie slag, and the antelope, desert these dreary plains, and retire with the expiring verdure, leaving behind them a vast solitude completely un- inhabited. Deep ravines, formerly the beds of impetuous torrents, intersect it in every direction, but now-a-days the sight of them only adds to the painful thirst which tortures the traveller. Here and there are heaps of stones, piled confusedly like ruins; ridges of rock, which rise up before you like impassible barrif-rs, and which interrupt, without embellishing, the wearisome sameness of these solitudes. Such are the Black Hills; beyond Uiese rise the Rocky Mountains, the imposing land-marks of the Atlantic world. The parses and vallies of this vast chain of mountains afford an asylum to a great number of savage tribes, many of whom are only the miserable remnants of diflerent people, who were formerly in the peaceable possession of the land, but are now driven back by war into almost inac- cessible defiles, where spolialioa can pursue them no fuither. This desert of the West, such as I have just described it, seems to defy the industry of civilized man. Some lands, more advantageously situated upon the banks of rivers, might, perhaps, be successfully reduced to cultivation ; otiiers might be turned into pastures as fertile as those of the East — but it is to be feared that this immense region forms a limit between civilization and barbarism, and that bands of malefactors, organised like the Caravans of the Arabs, may here practise their depredations with impunity. This country will, perhaps, one day, be the cradle of a new people, composed of the ancient savage races, and of that class of adventurers, fugitives and exiles, that society has cast forth from its bosom — a heterogeneous and dangerous population, which the American Union has collected like a 32 Cause of haired towards the ivhites. m III ■| 'lll'^l' porlentoiis cloud upon its frontiers, and wliose force and irritation it is constancy increasing', by transporting entire tribes of Indians from tlio banks of the iMississippi, where they were born, into the solitudes of the West, which are assigned as their place of exile. These savages carry with them an implacable hatred towards the whites, for having, they say, unjustly driven them from their country, far from the tombij of their fathers, in order to lake possession of their inheritance. Should some of these tribes hereafter form tliemselves into hordes, similar to the wandering people, partly shepherds, and partly warriors, who traverse with their flocks the plains of Upper Asia, is there not reason to fear, that in process of time, they with others, may organize themselves into bands of pillagers and assassins, having the fleet horses of the prairies to carry them ; with the desert as the scene of their outrages, and inaccessible rocks to secure their lives and plunder? On the 4tli of June we crossed the Ramee, a tributary liver of the Platte. About forty tents erected on its banks, served as dwellings for a part of the tribe of the Sheyennes. These Indians are distinguishable for their civility, their cleanly and decent habits. The men, in general, are of good stature, and of great strength ; their nose is aquiline, and their chin strongly developed. Tlie nei^^hboring na- tions consider them the most courageous warriors of the prairies. Their history is the same as that of all the sava- ges who have been driven back into the West — they are only the shadow of the once powerful nation of the Sha- ways, who formerly lived upon the banks of the Red River. The Scioux, their irreconcilable enemies, forced them, after a dreadful war, to pass over the Missouri, and to retreat behind the Warrican, where they fortified themselves ; but the conquerors again attacked them, and drove them from i furce and rting entire ppi, where which are carry with for liaving, y, far from spession of s liercafler wandering ho traverse there not ttliers, may assassins, hem ; with laccessible 1 tributary its banks, heyennes. iiy, their al, are of aquiline, )oring na- rs of the tlie sava- tliey are the Sha- d River. em, after to retreat ves ; but em from 4 Travellers' names registered on a rock. 33 I J post to post, into 'he mid « of the Black Coasts, situate upon the waters of the Gr«. .t Sheyenne River. In conse- quence of these reverses, their tribe, reduced to two ihou- gand souls, has lost even its name, being now called Shcyennes, from the name of the river that protects the remnant of the tribe. The Sheyennes have not since sought to form any fixed establishment, lest the Scioux should come again to dispute with them the lands which they might have chosen for their country. 'J'hey live by hunting, and follow the buflalo in his various migrations. 'J'he principal warriors of the nation invited me to a solemn banquet, in which three of the great chief's best dogs were served up to do me honor. 1 had half a one for my siiare. You may judge of my embarrassment, when I tell you that I attended one of those feasts at which eveiy one is to eat all that is oflored to him. Fortunatelv, one may call to his aid another guest, provided that the request to perform the kind ollice be accompanied by a present of tobacco. In our way from Ramee, the sojourn of the Sheyennes, to the Green River, where the Flat Heads were waiting for me, we successively passed the Black Hills, which owe this name not to the color of the soil and rocks that form them, but to the sombre verdure of the cedars and pines that shadow their sides ; the Red Bute, a central point by which the savages are continually crossing, when emigra- ting to the West, or going up towards the North ; and the famous rock, Independence, which is detached, like an out- work, from the immense chain of mountains that divide North America. It might be called the great registry of the desert, for on it may be read in large characters the names of the several travellers who have visited the Rocky Mountains. My name figures amongst so many others, as 'f?f»f- 34 Jin enormons Mountain. » that of tho first priest who has visited tiiese solitary regions. These mountains have been designated the backbone of the world. In fact a fitter appellation could not be given to these enormous masses of granite, whose summit is eleva- ted nearly twenty-four thousand feet above the level of the sea; ihey are but rocks piled upon rocks. One might think that he beheld the ruins of a world covered, if 1 may so speak, with a winding-sheet of everlasting snow. I shall here interrupt the recital of my journey, to give a short account of the diflfcrent tribes of the mountains, and of the territory they iiilubil. I will join with my own personal observations the most correct infoimation that I could possibly obtain. The Soshonees, or Rci t-diggers, appeared in great num- bers at the common rendezvous, where the deputations from all the tribes assemble every year, to exchange the pro- ducts of their rude industry. They inhabit the southern part of the Oregon, in the vicinity of California. Their population, consisting of about ten thousand souls, is divi- ded into several parties, scattered up and down in the most uncultivated vj.arter of the West. They are called Snakes, because in their indigence they are reduced, like such rep- tiles, to burrow in the earth and live upon roots. They would have no other food if some hunting parties did not occasionally pass beyond the mountains in pursuit of the buffalo, while a part of the tribe proceeds along the banks of the Salmon lliver, to make provision for the winter, at the season when the fish come up from the sea. Three hun- dred of their warriors wished, in honor of the whites, to go through a sort of military parade : they were hideously painted, armed with their clubs, and covered over with feathers, pearls, wolves' tails, the teeth and claws of animals and similar strange ornaments, with which each of them i } I iiiiji Inhuman jiratuef towaraa prifot % ry regions. ickbone of be given to lit is eleva- evel of ihe night think f 1 may so ■ cy, to give intains, and h my own ition that I great num- iations from je tlie pro- le southern lia. Their lis, is divi- n the most d Snakes, sucii rep- ts. They lies did not uit of the e banks of er, at the hree hun- ites, to go hideously ver with f animals of them I had decked himself, according to his ca[u mm Snrh ti had received wounds in battle, or slain the < ■ " oF their tribe, showed ostentatiously llieir scars, and had lloaiingi in the form of a standard, the scalps whicii they won from the conquered. After having rushed in good order, and at full gallop, upon our camp, as if to take it by assault they went several times round it, uttering at intervals cries of joy. They at length dismounted, and came and gave their hands to all the whites in token of union and friendship. Whilst I was at the rendezvous, the Snakes were prepar- ing for an expedition against the Hlack-Fect. When a chief is about to wage war, he announces his intention to his young warriors in tiie following manner. On the even- ing before his departure, lie makes his farewell dance before each cabin ; and everywhere receives tobacco, or some other present, llis friends wish him great success, scalps, horses, and a speedy return. If he brings back women as prisoners, lie delivers them as a prey to the wives, mothers, and sisters of his soldiers, who kill them witjj the hatchet or knife, after having vented against their unhappy captives the most outrageous insults: "Why are we unable," howl these furies, " to devour the heart of thy children, and bathe in the blood of thy nation !" At the death of a chief, or other warrior, renowned for his bravery, his wives, children, and relatives cut oil' their hair: this is a great mourning with the savages. The loss of a parent would seem but little felt, if it only caused his family to shed tears ; it must be deplored with blood ; and the deeper the incisions, the more sincere is the affection for the deceased. " An overwhelming sorrow," they say, " cannot be vented unless through large wounds." I know not how to reconcile these sentiments respecting the dead withtheir conduct towards the living. Would you believe ffr to Singular funeral rites. i' HI I i , > *\ that these men, so incon^olahlo in tlicir mourninr^, abandon, without pity, to the ferocious beastu of the desert, the old men, the «ick, and all those wliosc existence would be a burden to them ? The funeral of a Snake warrior is always performed by the destruction of whatever he possessed ; nothing, il seems, should survive him but the recollection of his exploits. Af- ter pilintj up in his hut all the articles he made use of, they cut away the props of the cabin, and set the whole on fire. The Youts, who form a separate people, allhoiigh they be- long to the Iribo of the Soslioncs, throw the body of the deceased upon the funeral pile, together with a hecatomb of his best horses. The moment that the smoke rises in thick cloudsi, they think that the soul of the savage is llying to- wards the region of spirits, borne by the iiuoics of his faith- ful coursers ; and, in order to quicken tlieir llight, thoy, all together, raise up frightful yells. Hut in general, instead of burning the body, they fasten it upon his favourite charger, as on a day of battle ; the animal is then led to llie edge of a neighboring river, the warriors are drawn up in a semicircular form, in order to prevent his escape ; and then, with a sliowcr of arrows, and a universal hurra, thoy force him to plunge into the current which is to engulf him. They next, with redoubled shouts, lecommcnd him to tran- sport his master without delay to the land of spirits.* * Althoiio-h this mode of fimoral exists amongst the Snakes, it is not, however, common to all the Indian tribes. Amongst tlio people wiio live on Uio borders of I;iko Abbitibbi, in Lower Canada, as soon as a warrior happens to die, they wrap the body in a shroud, lower it into a {rrave about a foot and a lialf deep, and plaoe alonrrsidc it a pot, a knife, a gun, and such other articles as arc of prime necessity to the savaj^os. Sonii; (hiys after the bu- rial, the relations of tlic deceased assend)ie to siufke over his fjrave. They then hang presents upon the nearest tree, particu- arly tobacco fur the soul of the deceased, which is to come ocea- KHtimulc of vaiioiiH Tribes. ijT, abandon, scrt, the old would be a 'rfornKul by iig, ilsocuH, :[)loil9. Af- iisc of, ihey jolo on fire. igli ihoy be- body of the jjccatomb of iscs in tiiick IS Hying to- of Ms faith- ;ht, thoy, all oral, instead is favourite then led to e drawn up scape ; and liurra, they ngulf him. iin to tran- ils.* |the Snakps, Amongst ], in Lower lap tliobody If deep, and Ir articles as Ifior tlie bu- \q over his ?e, particu- ;ome occa- J 'riie Sainpeelches aie ihc next neighbours of ihc Snakts. There is not, perhaps*, in iho wliolu worKI, a people iti :\ sionall} ;ui(l smoki' upon tlio irravc, wlurcllic lioily is iaiil. I'luy suppose that tlio poor soni is waiKlcrinir not I'lr iVoiii tht'iicc, un- til the l)o(ly becoiiu-'s pulrilied; after wiiieh it tlirs up to lu-avcn. The body of a wicked in.iii, tiny say, takes a loii downwatds, .nnd the head turned in tho same direction as tho course of the liver. .Some mats thrown u|)on the canoe finish the ceremony. Olferings, of which the value varies with the rank of the deceased, are next presented to him; and his gun, powder born and shot-bag are placevl at his bides. Articles of less value, such as a wooden bowl, a lartjo pot, a hatchet, arrows, &c. aie hung upon polos fixed around tho canoe. Next comes the tribute of wailing, whieli husbands arul wives owe to each other, and to their dccteased |)art;nl3,and also to their children; for a month, and often lonirer, tlu-y continually slieii, night and day, tears, accompanied with cries and groans, that are beard at a great distance. If the canoo ha|)pen to fall down in course of time, the remains of the deceased are collected, covered again with a winding-sheet, and deposited in another canoe — Extract of a Idler from M. Dtnicrs^ Mmionury aiiwng the ^'«ra- fres *■****, Some individuals of other tribes, seen by Father de .Smet on his tour, are the following: Tho Kootenays and the Carriers, with a jjopulalion of '1,(M)() souls, the Savages of the Lake, who are eompuled at about 500, the Oauldrons GOO, the Okinaganes 1,100, the Jantons and Santees 300, the .fantonnees 4,i300, the Ulack-Feet Scioux 1,500, the Two-('anldrons 800, the Ampapas 2,000, the IJurned '2,500, the Lack-Hows 1,000, the Minikomjoos 2,000, ibe Ogallallees 1,500, tbeSaoynes 2,000, the Unkepatines 2,00u, tlic Mandans, Big-Bellies, and Arikaraa, w bo have formed of their remnants one tribe, 3,000, the I'ierced-Noses, 2,500, the 4 38 Selling their Offspring. y.'\ I 1 ' Ji ;l^l^; deeper state of wretchedness and corruption ; the French commonly designate them *' the people deserving of pity,^^ and this appellation is most appropriate. Their lands are uncultivated heaths; their habitations are holes in the rocks, or the natural crevices of the ground, and their only arms, arrows and sharp-pointed sticks. Two, three, or at most four of them may be seen in company, roving over their sterile plains in quest of ants and grass- hoppers, on which they feed. When they find some insi- pid root, or a few nauseous seeds, they make, as they ima- gine, a delicious repast. They are so timid, that it is diffi- cult to get near them ; the appearance of a stranger alarms them ; and conventional signs quickly spread the news amongst lliem. Every one, thereupon, hides himself in a hole; and in an instant this miserable people disappear and vanish like a shadow. Sometimes, however, they venture out of their hiding places, and offer their newly born in- fants to the whites in exchange for some trifling articles. I have had the consolation of baptizing some of these unfortunate beings, who have related to me the sad circum- stances which 1 have just mentioned. It would be easy to find guides among these new converts, and be introduced I Kayuses 2,000, the Walla-Wallas 500, the Palooses 300, the Spokanes 800, the Point(Ml- Hearts 700, the Crows, the Assin- boins, the Ottos, the Pawnees, the Santees, the Kenards, the Aonays, the Kikapoux, the Delawares, and the Shawanons, wl\ose numbers are unknown. The Ibllowing are the names of the principal chiefs, who received the Missionary in their tents: The Big-Tnce and Walking-lkar, the Patriarchs of the Flat- Heads and Ponderas; the Iron-Crow, the Good-Heart, the Dog's- lland, the Bhick-Eyes, the Man that does not eat cow's flesh, and the Warrior who walks barolboLed; the last named is chief of the Black-Feet Scioux. •"i Future Rewards and Punishments. 39 : the French Reserving of :iate. Their ins are holes the ground, slicks. Two, in company, ts and grass- )d some insi- as ihey ima- hat it is difli- anger alarms ^d the news himself in a iisappear and ihey venture wly born in- ig articles. )me of these sad circum- d be easy to introduced )ses 300, the IS, the Assin- |Kenar(]s, the Shawanons, the names of \n their tents: of the Flat- rt, the Dog's- cow's flesh. imed is chief t by them to their fellow countrymen, to announce to them the Gospel, and thus to render their condition, if not hap- py, at least supportable through the hope of a belter futurity. If God allows nie to return to the Rocky Mountains, and my superiors approve of it, 1 ahall feel happy to devote my- self to the inslruciion of ihese pitiable people. The country of the Ulaws is situated lo the east and south east of the Soshonees, at the sources of the Kio Colo- rado. The population consists of about 4,000 souls. Mildness, alTability, simplicity of manners, hospitality to- wards slrangers, constant union amongst themselves, form the happy traits in their character. They subsist by hunt- ing and fishing, and on fruits and roots ; the climate is warm, and the land very fii for cultivation. I shall join to this account a brief exposition of the belief of the savages. Their religious tenets are composed of a few primitive truths and of gross errors : they believe in the existence of a Supreme Being, the source of every good, and consequently that he alone is adorable ; they believe that he created whatever exists, and that his providence over-rules the principal events of life, and that the calami- ties which befall the human race are chastisements inflicted by his justice on our perversity. They suppose, that with this, their God, whom they call the Great Spirit, there exists an evil genius, who so far abuses his power as to oppress the innocent with calamities. They also believe in a future life, where every one shall be treated according to his works ; that the happiness reserved for the virtuous will consist in the enjoyment of such goods as they most anxiously desired upon earth ; and that the wicked shall be punished by suffering, without consolation, the torments invented by the spirit of evil. According to their opinion, 40 4^ curious Tradition. the soul, upon its entry into the other world, resumes the lorm which our bodies have had in the present life.* •\ ■'!-} !:ii * A Canadian Missionary, who lived for a lonjj time among' tli(^ savng-es, «rive& ilic following' account of the j)opular tradition of the Indians respecting the creation of the world : — "Water, they say, was every where formerly; and VViskain, a spirit, or sutjorditiate deity, commanded the castor to dive into it, in order to procure some earth. 'J'he castor oheyed the order, hut he was so fat that he could not possibly descend to the bottom, and he had to return without any earth. Wiskain, nothing dis(^ouragcd, charged the musk-rat with the commission which the castor was unable to perform. The new messenger havinnr remained a lonf while \inder water, and with as little success as the castor, re- turned almost drowned. Tlie rat expected that ho should not he rccjuiied a fccond time, as he had already nearly lost his life. But Wiskain, who was noi discouraged by obstacles, directed the rat to dive again, promising him, tliat if he should happen to he drowned, he (Wiskain) would restore him to life. 'I'jie rat dived a second time, and made the greatest efforts to comply with Wiikain's orders. After remaining a considerable while under the water, he arose to the surface, but so exhausted by fatigue that he was insensible. Wiskain, upon a careful and minute ex- amination, finds at length in the claws of the poor animal a little earth, upon which he hreathes with such effect, that it begins to augment rapidly. \Yhen he had thus blown for a long time, feel- ing anxious to know if the earth was large enough, he ordered the crow, which at that period was as white as the swan, to fly round it, and take its dimensions. The crow did accordingly, and returned, saying that the work was too small. Wiskain set about blowing upon the earth with renewed ardour, and directed the crow to make a second tour round it, cautioning him, at the same time, not to feed upon any carcass that he might see on the way. The crow set off again without complaint, and found, at the place which had heen pointed out, the carcass which lie was forbidden to touch. But, having grown hungry on the way, and being also, perhaps, excited by gluttony, he filled himself with the infected meat, and on his return to VViskain, informed him that the earth was large enough, and that he need not, therefore, resume his work. IJut the unfaithful messenger, at his return, found himself as black as he had been white at his setting out, and was thus punished for his disobedience, and the black colour com- municated to his descendants." The above tradition, which bears some striking vestiges of the tradition respecting original sin, I ' t- A joyful meeting. 41 resumes the t life.* f time among tiilar tradition d :_" Water, n, a spirit, or to it, in order T, but he was ttom, and lie f discouraged, lie castor was nained a lono- lie castor, re- sliould not be lost Ilia life. ;les, directed lid happen to ife. The rat comply with while under |d by fatigue " minute ex- mal a little t begins to time, feel- le ordered wan, to fly iccordingly, ' iskain set d directed im, at the see on the found, at ich he was way, and self with •rmed him therefore, lis return, g out,and our com- lich bears inal sin, % What I am going to add applies chiefly to the tribe that 1 have been lately instructing. Besides my escort of Fiat Heads, I had also with me an intrepid Fleming, John Bap- tist de Velder, who formerly served as a grenadier under Napoleon. From the battle fields of Europe he betook himself to the forests of the New World, where he has passed thirty years of his life in pursuit of beavers and bears. During the Missionary's journey, he was his de- voted friend, and the faithful companion of his dangers. He has now taken the resolution to traverse the desert only as a guide to the apostles of the Gospel. He had almost forgotten his native language, except his prayers, and a hymn in honour of Mary, which his mother taught him when a child, and which he daily recited, when engaged ia the adventurous chase. I found the Flat Heads and the Ponderas assembled, to the number of sixteen hundred, in the beautiful Peters' Valley. You know already the reception they gave me, and I shall never forget it. The enthusiastic joy with which they welcomed my arrival — the exulting shouts of the young warriors — the tears of the aged, returning thanks to the Great Spirit, for having granted them the favour to see and hear a Black-Gown before their death — that scene, I repeat it, I can never forget. I shall not recount the reli- gious exercises of my mission, as the consoling results of them have been already communicated to you. You will, and several circumstances of the deluge, makes no mention what- ever of the creation of man and woman; and, however illogical it may be, it is, perhaps, not more ridiculous than the systems of certain pretended philosophers of the last century, who, in hatred of revelation, have endeavoured to explain the formation of tho earth, by substituting their extravagant reveries for the Mosaic account. I.£ '(i m ifll' 42 Manifestations of Prudence. perhaps, lake an interest in reading the notes 1 have col- lected regarding the character and habits of my neophytes, during a sojourn of three months amongst them ; living like them, by the chase and on roots, having only a buflalo's hide for my bed, passing my nights under the canopy of heaven, when the weather was calm, or taking siielter un- der a small tent against the fury of the tempest. With regard to the character of these Indians, it is en- tirely pacific. They never fight, except in circumstances of lawful defence; but they are, unforlupately, often reduc- ed to this said necessity, in consequence of the warlike tem- per of the Black Feet tribe, who are their neighbours and implacable enemies. That marauding people appear to live only for murder and pillage. They are the terror of the savages of the west, who endeavour, as much as possible, to avoid their fatal encounter. But should the Flat Heads, notwithstanding such precaution, be forced to fight, their courage is as conspicuous as their love of peace ; for they rush impetuously on their adversaries, whom they prevent from escaping, and generally make them pay dear for their cruel attacks. It is a truth which has become proverbial in the moun- tains, that one Flat Head, or one of the Ear Rings, is worth four Black Feet. If the band of the latter meets a detach- ment of Flat Heads, of equal or superior numbers, they forthwith appear disposed for peace, unfurl a standard, and present a pipe, in token of friendr^hip. The Flat Heads always accept these tokens of amity ; but they take care to make their enemies sensible that the motives which influ- ence their conduct on such occasions are fully understood. " Black Foot," they say, "I take your pipe, but be assured that I am aware that your heart is disposed for war, and that your hands are stained with murder. Let us smoke A Liberty subordinate to Authority. 43 1 have col- neophytes, ; living like ' a buflalo's 3 canopy of shelter un- )s, it is en- •cumstaHces often reduc- varlike tem- ;hbours and )pear to live rror of the as possible, Plat Heads, fight, their ; for they ey prevent r for their |the moun- i, is worth a detach- lers, they idard, and liat Heads ke care to lich influ- Iderstood. assured ar, and Is smoke 'J together, as you desire it, though I am convinced that blood will soon be made to flow." The greatest reproach that could be made to the Flat Heads was their excessive love for games of chance, in which they often risked all they possessed. 'J'he Indians of Colombia carried this passion to an almost inconceivable degree; for, afier losing their goods, they would stake their own persons, at first playing for one hand, then for the other; and if the game continued unfavorable to them, they played successively for every one of tlieir limbs, and, lastly, for their head, wiiich, if they lost, they, togeliier with their wives and children, became slaves for life. The government of the nation is confided to chiefs, who have merited this title by their experience and exploits, and who possess more or less influence, according to the degree of wisdom and courage they have displayed iii coun- cil or bailie. The chief does not command, but seeks to persuade ; no tribute is paid to him, but, on the contrary, it is one of the appendages of his dignity to contribute more than any other to the public expense. He is generally one of the poorest in the village, in consequence of giving away his goods for the relief of his indigent brethren, or for the general interests of his tribe. Altliough his power has nothing imperious in it, his authority is not tlie less abso- lute; and it may, without exaggeration, be asserted, that his wishes are complied with as soon as known. Should any mutinous individual be deaf to his personal command, the public voice would soon call him to account for his ob- stinacy. I know not of any government where so much personal liberty is united with greater subordination and devoledness. All the mountain tribes differ somewhat from each other in their dress. The men wear a Ions robe, made of the 44 Decorations. I'l* -»^ ' '} ■ ;ii ;< !'■ 1 ii '-'f 1,;; skins of the antelope or sheep, with shoes and gaiters of doe or dog's skin, and a biifTalo liide cloak, covered with woollen cloth, painted in various colours. The Indian loves to add ornament to ornament : his long hair is decked with various kinds of feathers, and a great number of rib- bando,irings and shells. In order to givt suppleness to his limbs, he rubs his body with bear's grease, over which he spreads a thick layer of vermillion. Children under seven years of age are scarcely ever clothed, except in winter; they are afterwards dressed in a sort of tunic, made of skins, which is open under the arms. They spend whole days amusing themselves in the water, and sometimes even in the mire. The women wear a large pelerine, adorned with elks' teeth and several rows of pearls. Amongst the Arikaras, their grand dress consists of a fine chemise, with doe-skin shoes and gaiters, embroidered in brilliant colours. A quiver filled with arrows is suspended from the left shoulder; and a cap of eagles' feathers adoins the brow of warriors and huntsmen. lie that has killed an enemy on his own land is distinguished by having the tails of wolves tied on his legs ; the bear-killer wears, for a trophy, the claws of that animal as a necklace ; ihe privilege of a savage who has taken in bailie one or more scalps, is to have a red hand painted on his mouth, to show that he has drunk the blood of his enemies. The Indian is not less proud of his horse, the companion of all his excursions and of all his dangers, and the friend to which he becomes extremely at- tached. The head, breast, and the flanks of the noble ani- mal are covered with scarlet cloth, adorned with pearls and fringes, to which are attached a multitude of little round bells. Cleanliness is a quality not possessed by the savage, nor are the women more particular in this respect than the men; for they never wash their pots or saucepans ; and at J I J Honesty and Hospitality. 45 nd gaiters of lovered with The Indian air is decked mber of lib- Icness to his er which he under seven it in winter ; ic, made of spend whole lelimes even ine, adorned A^mongst the leniise, with iant colours. om the left the brow of 1 enemy on s of wolves trophy, the of a savage have a red drunk the oud of his of all his Iremely at- noble ani- pearls and little round le savage, t than the s ; and at their meals thcv often make use of their straw hats, which have no leaf, instead of bowls. As I before mentioned, the only prevailing vice that 1 found amongst the Flat Heads was a passion for games of chance — it has since been unanimously abolished. On the other hand, they are scrupulously hones^^l in buying and sel- ling. 'J'hey have never been accused of stealing. When- ever any lost article is found, it is immediately given to the chief, who informs the tribe of the fact, and restores it to the lawfid owner. Detraction is a vice unknown even amongst the women ; and falsehood is particularly odious to them. A forked-tongue (a liar) they say, is the scourge of a people. Quarrels and violent anger are severely pun- ished. Whenever any one happens to fall into trouble, his neighbors hasten to his aid. The gaiety of their disposi- tion adds a charm to their union. Even the stranger is re- ceived as a friend; every tent is open to him, and that which he prefers is considered the most honored. In the Rocky Mountains they know not the use of locks or bolts. In looking at this picture, which is in nowise overdrawn, you will perhaps ask, are these the people whom civilized men call barbarians ? We have been too long erroneously accustomed to judge of all the savages by the Indians on the frontiers, who have learned the vices of the whites. And even with respect to the latter, instead of treating them with disdain, it would perhaps be more just not to reproach them with a degradation, of which the example has been given them, and which has been promoted by selfish and deplorable cupidity. The country inhabited by tlie Flat Heads is as picturesque as their lives are innocent. We often met in the neighbor- hood of the several encampments of the tribe, majestic tor- rents, forests with trees that have been growing for ages, i 111/' rifl 'I: I: I '' 'i'i' li'?' II IP »!^-ft, il^l mi' 46 Sublimitij of Mountain Prospects. anil pastures covered with the traveller's tea, which, al- though trampled by iiuinherless liorses, embalms the air with its delightful Ira^francc. We continually beheld a grand succession of lofty mountains ; some delifrhied the sight by their blooming verdure and the imposing appear- ance of the woods that crowned their summits, while others, as red as brick, bore the impressions of some great convul- sion of nature. At the base of the latter may be seen piled up layers of lava, and at their tops the ancient craters are easily distinguished. One day, as the tribe was proceeding towards the banks of the lake Henry, I felt a desire to as- cend to the top of a mountain, situate between the waters of the Colombia and the Missouri, in the hope of disco- vering the exact place where those two great rivers rise, and the distance between them. I succeeded in finding one of their sources : they form two torrents, which, being di- vided where they rise, by the distance of scarce a hundred paces, continually diverge as they descend towards the plain. Their course over the rocks presents an enchanting sight : they do not flow along, but roll from cascade to cas- cade i and nothing is comparable to the beauty of their bounding waters, except the distant noise of their fall, re- peated by the echoes of the solitary mountains. Finding it impossible to get to the highest top of the mountain that overlooks these sources, I stopped when I had reached an elevation of 5,000 feet. I then cast my eyes upon the immense region that lay extended at my feel; I contemplated to myself all the tribes upon the banks of the Missouri, as far as Council BlufTs : I thought on my dear colleagues, who are sent by Providence, like angels of salvation, amongst these savage hordes ; and I considered, with mixed feelings of joy and grief, their labors, consola- tions, and hopes, and how disproportionate is their number i- •Kb *'? pathetic Separation. 47 , which, al- ilms the air iy beheld a Blighied the sing appear- vhiie others, reat convul- e seen piled t craters are =. proceeding desire toas- 1 the waters pe of disco- rivers rise, n finding one ch, being di- ce a hundred towards the enchanting cade to cas- uty of their leir fall, re- top of the )ed when I len cast my Inded at my In the banks ight on my like angels jonsidered, rs, console- ieir number to the people requiring the aid of their ministry. Kind people, what futurity awaits thee ? Holy Missioners, what recompense is reserved for your self-devotion ? 1 remembered that they and I have in heaven a powerful in- tercessor, in the illustrious founder of our Society ; and in order to interest him in our dear missions, from the summit of that mountain from which I could nearly view them all, 1 placed them under his protection. I would fain persuade myself that he will not prove forgetful of his followers, who are endeavoring to plant i!ie (lospel in these countries where it lias hitherto been unknown. Additional apostolic teachers will come hither to assist us by their zeal, before the vices of civilization and the proselytism of error have multiplied the obstacles to the propagation of that faith which all the savages so anxiously desire to know, and which, like the Flat Heads and the Ponderas, they would practise with gratitude and fidelity. The 27ih of August was the day I fixed upon for my departure. Seventeen warriors, chosen from amongst the bravest of the two nations, and under the command of three chiefs, arrived early in the morning, before the entrance of my cabin.* The council of the ancients appointed them to * Asa beautiful specimen of an affecting farewell address, we lake from the journal of a Canedian Missionary the following discourse spoken by one of the savages of the Red River, to the Black-Gown who had converted them, when he was about leaving them. After expressing, in tlie name of all the Indians of his lo- cality, the grief which they felt at the Missionary's departure, he added the following words, which prove tlieir gratitude to the worthy Priest, who had brought to them the truths of salvation, and to the members of tlio Society for the Propagation of the Faith, whoso charity had procured them so great a benefit: — " Dear Father, you are going to leave us, but we hope to see you again. Wo aro quite sensible that you naturally wish to see your relations and friends, your towns and country — we shall find I III! ■' t|: ' '■! li '.! ( .III 5 i:: lu- ll! J 'ill I J. t ■ ir 111: ['I 'J ¥ I" .^! ' 1 If 48 Process for Protection. serve as my escort while I sliuiild be in the comitry ol' the Uiack Feel and of lh») Crows. Of these two tribes, so hos* tile to the whiles, the former never gives them quarter, and the latter will sometimes spare their lives oidy to leave them, after having robbed them of every thing, to die of hunger in the desert. As we were liable, every instant, to fall into some ambush, we had scouts sent in all directions to reconnoitre the place and examine the detiles ; and the smallest trace of a man having passed before us, was mi- nutely examined. And here we cannot sulliciently admire the wonderful sagacity with which Providence has en- dowed the savage: he will tell you, from the mere foot- marks, the exact day on which the Indian had erected his lent on the spot, and how many men and horses had been there ; whether it was a detachment of warriors or a com- pany of hunters, and the nation to which they belong. We selected, every evening, a favorable site for our camp, and raised around it a little fort with the trunks of dry tk '>es, in order to protect ourselves against any surprise during the night. the time of your absence very long, but the winter is soon over.— We conceived it to bo our duty to assemble before your departure, and to express our feelings. We shall only say these few words : we formerly led very wicked lives, and we know this day to what destruction wc were hastening. There was a thick cloud before our eyes; you have dispersed it; we seo the sun. We shall never forget what you have done and suffered for us. — Go now, go and tell the Prayers, those hind Prayert--, who take pity on us; who love us without knowing us; and who send as priests; go and tell them that savages know iiow to remember a benefit; go and tell them that we also pray for them, in the desire which we feel to know them, one day, in the abode of our common Father. Set out, but return and instruct those whom you have baptized: leave us not forever in affliction ; depart, and in the meanwhile remem- ber that we are counting the days." W Objects of Terror. 19 iitry ol' ihe bes, 80 hos' uarler, and ily lo leave , to ilio of instant, to 1 directions s ; and the IS, was mi* rjlly admire ce has en* mere foot- erected his ;s had been s or a com- lelong. We camp, and ry tr'^es, in wring the lOon over. — departure, 'ew word3 : Joy to what jloiid before We shall . — Go now, pity on us; sts ; go and t ; go and ch we feel ther. Set zed : leave le remem- This region is the retreat of griz/ly bears, the most Icrri- bic animals of tlio desert, whose strength cciuals their daring and voraciiv. I ii:ive been assured thai by a single slrok Hi I LETTER 111. .If ' vi; Banks of the Platte, 2il June, 1841. Rev. and Very Dear Father Provincial : Behold us at last on our way towards the long wished for •' Rocky Mountains," already inured to the fatigues of the journey and full of the brightest hopes. It is now after- nuon and we are sitting on the banks of a river, which, it is said, has not its equal in the world. The Indians call it Nebraska or Big Horn ; the Canadians give it the name of la Platte, and Irving designates it as the most wonderful and useless of rivers. The sequel will show that it deserves these various affixes. It was to enjoy the freshness and beauty of its scenery that we travelled more than twenty miles this morning, without breaking our fast, through a wilderness without a single rivulet to water our jaded horses, who must therefore rest where they are till to-morrow. I am far from regretting the delay as it will give me an op- portunity of commencing a letter which, I know, will inte- rest you. Like all the works of God, our humble beginnings have not been unattended with trials : our journey had even well nigh been indefinitely postponed by the unexpected non- arrival of two caravans on which we had confidently relied; one of hunters, for the American Fur Company ; the other an exploring expedition belonging to the United States, at the head of which we expected to see the celebrated M. Nicolet. Happily God inspired two estimable travellers, ; i,t I'f ■ ' il Departure for the Rochj JMountaim. 61 of whom more hereafter, and afiorwards sixty o'.liers, lo take tlie samo route as ourselves, some for health, others for science, or pleasure; but the greater number to seek iheir fortune in the loo iiighly boasted hmd of (Jalifornia. Tliis caravan formed an extraordinary niixlure of dilTerent nations, every country of Europe having in it a representa- tive, my own little band of eleven persons hailing from eight. The difTicnllies of selling out once overcome, many others followed in succession. We had need of provisions, fire- arms, implements of every kind, waggons, guides, a good hunter, an experienced captain, — in a word, whatever be- comes necessary when one has to traverse a desert of eight hundred leagues, and expects nothing but for- midable obstacles to surmount, and thieving, and sometimes murderous, enemies to combat, — and swamps, ravines and rivers to cross, and mountains to climb, whose craggy and precipitous sides suddenly arrest our progress, compell- ing us to drag our beasts of burden up their steep ascents. These things are not done without toil and money, but thanks to the generous charity of our friends in Philadel- phia, Cincinnati, Kentucky, St. Louis and New Orleans, which place 1 visited in person and which is always at the head of the others when there is a question of relieving the necessities of the poor, or showing compassion and muni- ficence to any who may be in need of assistance, we were enabled by the resources thence supplied, and by a portion of the funds allowed by the Lyons Association in behalf of the Indian iMissions, to undertake this long journey. You have already learned from ray letters of the past year, that I was specially sent among the Flat Heads to ascertain their dispositions towards the " Black Robes," whom they had so long desired. I therefoie started from 6 m W I }:, s •,;.' ■\i till f I'll n »!J 02 Jiemlczvotis at Colorado. il;'i u'i . f ■i' JSt. Louis in April, 1840, and arrived on the banks of the Colorado prtcisely ai ihe nionjunl when a band of Flat Heads reached ihat point on their way to meet nie. It was the rendezvous 1 had given them. Besides the Fiat Heads I visited during iliui journey, many other tribes, such as the Pends-d'orc'ilhs (Ear Kin^s), Nez Ferccs (Fierccd Noses), (Jhcyonnes, tSerpcnts, Crows, Cos ventres or Mi- iialarecs, Kicaias, Mandans, Kaiizas, the numerous nations of the Scioux, iVc. Finding every where such good dispo- sitions, 1 resolved, notvvilhslanUiiig the approach of winter and frequent attacks of fever, in order to second the visible ilenigns of the divine mercy in favor of so many souls, to commence my journey across the immense ocean of moun- tains and prairies. I have travelled without any other guide than a compass, without any protection from nations hostile to the whites, but a veteran from Client, formerly a grenadier of the Empire, any other provisions in an arid desert, than what powder and ball and a strong conlulence in God might procure us. 1 shall not here repeat what I have already communicated to you, of my adventures and the result of this mission. It will suffice to say, that the unexpected quickness of my return to St. Louis, the excellent health 1 enjoyed, even though it was the midst of winter, and the consoling accounts I had to give of my reception by the Flat Heads, &;c. &c., all contributed to make the most lively impression on the hearts of our brethren. Almost every one thought himself called to share the labors of a mission which oflered so many attractions to their zeal. After due deliberation, the fellow-laborers allotted me were five in number, namely two Faihers, Rev. Mr. Point of La Vendee, as zealous and courageous for the salvation of souls as his compatriot, La Roche Jacquelin was in the service of his lawful sovereign ; Rev. Mr. Mengarini, recently from (A ^^ nival at J f 'est port. 98 Rome, specially selected by the Father (Icneral himself, (or this mission, on account of his age, his viriues, his great facility for languages antl his knowledge of inedicine and music; and three lay-broilicrs, two Belgians, Claesscns and lluct, and one Germ-xn, of whom t!io (irsi is a black- smith, the second a carpenter, and the third a tinner, or a sort o{ factotum; all three industrious, devoted to the Mis- sions and full of good will. They had long ardently de- sired to be employed on these missions and I thank God that had the choice been left to myself, I could have made none better. Thus launched into the midsi of this intermi- nable Far AVcst, how often did 1 repeat these beautifullines of Raoine : O Dicii, par qucllcs routes inconnues aiix mortels Ta Sairessc conduit tcs desscins etcruels ! In seven days from my departure from St. Louis, name- ly, on the 30th of April, I arrived at Westport, a frontier town on the West of the United States. It took us seven days, on board a steamboat, to perform this journey of 900 miles, no unfair average of the time required to travel such a distance on the Missouri, at the breaking up of the winter, when, though the ice is melted, the water is still so low, the sand banks so close together and the snags so numerous that boats cannot make greater headway We landed on the right bank of the river, and took refuge in an abandoned little cabin, where a poor Indian woman had (lied a few days before, and in this retreat, so like to that which once merited the preference of the Saviour and for which was thenceforth to b? substituted only the shelter of a tent in the wilderness, we took up our abode until the 10th May — occupied as well we might be in supplying the wants created by the burning of our baggage waggon on board the steamboat, the sickness of one of our horses w 11 Hr \Wx iM^f I i I 'M^* Qi Indian FAiquetU. which we were compelled to leave after us, and the loss of another that escaped from us at the moment of landing. We started, then, from Westporl, on the lOlhofMay, and after having passed by the lands of the Shavvnees and Delawares, wlurc wo saw nulhing remarkable but the col- lege of the Methodists, built, it is easy to divine for what, where the soil is richest; wo arrived after five day's march on the banks of the ivanzas river, where wo found those of our companions, who had travelled by water, with a part of our baggage. Two of the rtlalives of the grand chief had come twenty milts from that place to meet us, one of whom helped our horses to pass the river in safety, by swimming bcfoic them, and the other announced our arri- val to the principal men of the tribe who wailed for us on the opposite bank. Our baggage, waggons and men cross- ed in a pirogue, which, at a distance, looked like one of those gondolas that glide through the streets of Venice. As soon as the Kanzas understood that we were going to en- camp on the banks of the Soldier's Kiver, which is only six miles from the village, they galloped rapidly away from our Caravan, disappearing in a cloud of dust, so that we had scarcely pitched our tents when the great Chief presented himself with six of his bravest warriois, to bid us welcome. After having made me sit down on a mat spread on the ground, he, with much solemnity, took from his pocket a Portfolio containing the honorable titles that gave him a riglit to our frielld^hip and placed them in my hands. 1 read them, and having, wiih the tact of a man accustomed to the etiquette of savage life, furnished him the means of smoking the Calmei, he made us accept for our guard the two braves who had come to meet us. Both were armed like warriors, one carrying a lance and a buckler, and the other a bow and arrows, with a naked sword and a collar the I068 o( unding. iiIj of May, iwnccs and jul ihe col- 'i for wliai, ay's march id those of ilh a ])art jraiid ciiief us, ono of safity, by I our arri- for us on men cross- like one of enice. As ling to en- is only six y from our lat we had presented welcome, ead on the i pocket a ive him a jiands. 1 ^customed means of guard the Gre armed r, and the II a collar n m M K- 1 iM 5 i I iii'i II til:: h|| m ^ N Hi ,!> ■*.: N -•'; <5 ■•■3 < < ^n Indian Vll/afire. 05 made of il)e claws of four bears whicli he had killed with his own liiind. These two braves remained faithful at their post during the three days and three nights that we had to wait the coming np of the stragglers of the caravan. A small f)resenl which we made them at our departure, secured us their friendship. On the I9th we continued our journey to the number of seventy souls, fifty of whom were capable of managi:ig the rifle — a force more than suflicient to undertake with pru- dence the long fiiarch we iiad to make. Whilst the rest of our company inclined to the West, Father Point, a young Englishman and myself turned to the left, to visit the near- est village of our hosts. At the first sight of their wigwams, we were struck at the resemblance they bore to the large stacks of wheat which cover our fields in harvest-time. There were of these in all no more than about twenty, group- ed together without order, but each covering a space of about one hundred and twenty feet in circumference, and sufficient to shelter from thirty to forty persons. The entire village appeared to us to consist of from seven to eight hun- dred souls — an approximation which is justified by the fact that the total population of the tribe is confined to two vil- lages, together numbering 1900 inhabitants. These cabins, however humble they may appeir, are solidly built and convenient. From the top of the wall, which is about six feet in height, rise ittclined poles, which terminate round an opening above, serving at once for chimney and window. The door of the edifice consists of an undressed hide on the most sheltered side, the hearth occupies the centre and is in the midst of four upright posts destined to support the ro- tunda; the beds are ranged round the wall and thti space be- tween the beds and the hearth is occupied by the members 6* I J 'I i )4« I. 1 il ■ * . s [■'t\ H MS '■I i ^.1^ :Ui I r 06 The Papoose, i ivH M\ h of the family, some standing, others sitting or lying on skins, or yellow colored mats. It would seem that this last named article is regarded as a piece of extra finery, for the lodge assigned to us had one of them. It would be difficult to describe all the curiosities we beheld during the hour we passed among these truly strange beings ; a Teniers would have envied us. What most excited our attention was the peculiar physiognomy of the groater number of these personages, their vivacity of expression, singular costume, diversity of amusement and fantastic attitudes and gestures. Tlie women alone were occupied, and in order to attend to their various duties with less distraction, they iiad placed those of their papooses who were unable to walk, on beds or on the floor, or at their feet, each tightly swathed and fastened to a l)oard, to preserve it from being injured by surrounding objects.— This machine, which I shall not call either cradle or chair, is carried, when they travel, either on the back, after the fashion of the gypsies and fortune-tellers in Europe, or at their side, or more frequently, suspended from the pummel of the saddle, while they lead or drive their ponies, laden with the rest of their goods and chattels. With such en- cumbrances they manage to keep pace with their husbands, who generally keep their horses at a gallop. But let us re- turn to our wigwam. How were the men occupied ? When we entered, some were preparing to eat, (this is their great occupation when they are not asleep) others were smoking, discharging the fumes of the tobacco by their mouths and nostrils, reminding one of the funnels of a steamboat; they talked, they plucked out their beard and the hair of their eye-brows, they made their toilette i the head receiv- ing particular attention. Contrary to the custom of the other tribes, who let the hair on their heads grow, (one of on skins, ast named the lodge jsities we lese truly js. What siognomy /ivacity of jment and lone were luties with • papooses oor, or at , hoard, to objects. — e or chair, , after the rope, or at tie pummel nies, laden 1 such en- r husbands, lit let us re- ed? When ; their great •e smoking, mouths and steamboat; the hair of lead receiv- stom of the ow, (one of ^'11 r I! i, *■ :i ■ t'l i:|: y I i ,■■« Iri i mil .!^f' O O O < z 2 o Q Ornaments. 07 C5 o o o < z O I the Crows has hair eleven feet long) liie Kanzas shave theirs, with the exception of a well curled tuft on the crown, destined to be wreathed with the warrior's plume of eagle's feathers, the proudest ornament with which the human head can be adorned. While we were smokins: I could not help watching the motions of a young savage, a sort of dandy, who ceased not to arrange, over and over again, his bunch of feathers before a looking glass, appa- rently unable to give it the graceful finish he intended. — Father Point, having suHered his beurd to grow, soon be- came an object of curiosity and laughter, to the children — a beardless chin and well picked brows and eye-lashcs being, among ihem, indispensable to beauty. Next come the Plume and Slit-cars, with their pendants of beads and other trinkets. This is but a part of their finery, and the pains thus taken to reach the beau-ideal of personal decorations, are but a faint specimen of their vanity. Uo you wish to have an idea of a Kanza satisfied with himself in the high- est degree ? Picture hiin to yourself with rings of Vermil- lion encircling his eyes, with white, black, or red stieaks running down his face, a fantastic necklace, adorned in the centre with a large medal of silver or copper, dangling on his breast; bracelets of tin, copper, or brass, on his arms and wrists ; a cincture of white around his waist, a cutlass and scabbard, embroidered shoes or mocasins on his feet; and, to crown all, a mantle, it matters not for the color, thrown over the shoulders and falling around the body in such folds or drapery as the wants or caprice of the wearer may direct, and the individual stands before you as he exhi- bited himself to us. As for dress, manners, religion, modes of making war, &;c., the Kanzas are like the savages of their neighborhood, with whom they have preserved peaceful and friendly rela- «' i |:,: ,1 4 "I \i i' ii|){ r- 11 I 68 An intelligent Chief. !■■)' '\ It l',!l,; I'r J; :,! !»' '■ all u: .,:i tions from lime immemorial. In stature, they are generally tall and well made. Their physiognomy is manly, their language is gutural, and remarkable for the length and strong accentation of the final syllables. Their style of singing is monotonous, whence it may be inferred that the enchanting music heard on the rivers of Paraguay, never cheers the voyager on the otherwise beautiful streams of the country of the Kanzas. With regard to the qualities which distinguish n»an from the brute, they are far from being deficient. To bodily strength and courage they unite a shrewdness and address superior to other savages, and in their wars or the chase, ihey make a dexterous use of fire arms, which gives them a decided advantage over their enemies. Among the chiefs ofthis tribe are found men leally distin- guished in many respects. The most celebrated was " White Plume," whom the author of the Conquest of Grenada represents as a man of great powers of mind and chivalrous character. He was endowed with uncommon intelligence, frankness, generosity and courage. He had been particularly acquainted with Rev. Mr. De ia Croix, one of the first Catholic Missionaries that visited that part of the West, and conceived for him and his colleagues, the •' Black Robes" profound esteem. His feelings towards the Protestant Missionaries were far difi!erent. He had neither esteem nor veneration for them or their re- formation. When on a certain occasion one of them spoke to him of conversion; "conversion," said the unsophistica- ted savage, "is a good thing when the change is made for something good. For my part, I know none such but what is taught and practised by the Black Robes. If then you desire me to change, you must first quit your wife and then put on the habit 1 shall show you, and then we shail lieverence for tlu Great Spirit. 69 see furlher." This habit was a priest's cassock, which a missionary had left him with the memory of his virtues. — We presume we need not add that these hard conditions were not complied with by the preacher. It is not to be inferred from the apparent pleasantry of this remark that the chief spoke lightly of Religion ; on the contrary, the Kanzas, like all the Indian tribes, never speak on the subject without becoming solemnity. The more they are observed the more evident does it become that the religious sentiment is deeply implanted in their souls, and is, of all others, that wliich is most frequently expressed by their words and aciiou'. Thus, for instance, they never take the calmut, without first rendering some homage to the Great Spirit. In the midst of their most infuriate p'assions they address him certain prayers, and even in assassinating a defenceless child, or a woman, they invoke the Master of life. To be enabled to take many a scalp from their ene- mies, or to rob them of many horses, becomes the object of their most fervid prayers, to which they sometimes add fasts, macerations and saciifices. What did they not do last spring, to render the heavens propitious? And for what? To obtain the power, in the absence of their warriors, to massacrd all the women and children of the Pawnees ! And in effect they carried ofl' the scalps of ninety victims, and made prisoners of all whom they did not think proper to kill. In their eyes, revenge, far from being a horrible vice, is the first of virtues, the distinctive mark of great souls, and a complete vindication of the most atrocious cru- elty. It would be time lost to attempt to persuade them that there can be neither merit, nor glory, in the murder of a disarmed and helpless foe. There is but one exception to this barbarous code, it is when an enemy vol- untarily seeks a refuge in one of their villages. As long as i] 1; ,< t i 'It' ! \ !^ m 1 lii m V 'I CI h 1 '■Jli;'. 70 First visit to the Chapel. he remains in it, his asylum is inviolable — his life is more safe than it would be in his own wigwam. But wo to him if he attempt to fly — scarcely has he taken a singlu step, before he restores to his hosts all the imaginary rights which the spirit of vengeance had given them to his life! However cruel they may be to their foes, the Kanzas ate no strangers to the tenderest sentiments of piety, friend- ship and compassion. They are often inconsolable for the death of their relations, and leave nothing undone to give proof of their sorrow. Then only do they suffer their hair to grow — long hair being a sign of long mourning. The principal chief apologised for the length of his hair, inform- ing us, of what we could have divined from the sadness of his countenance, that he had lost his son. I wish I could represent to you the respect, astonishment and compassion, expressed on the countenances of three others, when they visited our little Chapel for the first time. When we showed them an " Ecce Homo" and a statue of our Lady of the seven Dolours, and the interpreter explained to them that that head crowned with thorns, and that countenance defiled with insults, were the true and real image of a God who had died for the love of us, and that the heart they saw pieiced with seven swords, was the heart of his mother, we beheld an aflecting illustration of the beautiful thought of Ter- tuUian, that the soul of man is naturally Christian ! On such occasions, it iL> surely not difficult, afier a short instruction on true faith and ihe love of God, to excite feelings of pity for their fellow creatures in the most ferocious bosoms. What were the Iroquois before their conversions, and what have they not since become ? Why do the Kanzas and so many other tribes on the confines of civilization, still retain that savage ferocity of manners 1 Why have the great sums expended in their behalf by Protestant philanthropy Contemplated Attack. 71 produced no satisfactory results ? Why are the germs of civilization so thickly scattered among these tribes, as it were, stricken with sterility ? Ah ! it is doubtless, because something more than human policy and zeal of Troiestant- ism is necessary to civilize the savage and make them Christians. May the God of Mercies, in wliom we alone place all our trust, bless our undertaking and enable us to predict that our sweat, mixed with the fertilizing dew of heaven, will fall auspiciously on this long barren earth, and make it produce something else besides briars and thorns ! When we took leave of our hospitable hosts, two of their wartiors, to one of whom they gave the title of Captain, es- corted us a short distance on the road, which lay through a vast field which had been cleared and planted for them by the United Slates, but which had been ravaged before the harvest home — sad proof of what we have stated above. Our escort continued with us until the day following, and would have remained with us still longer, did they not fear the terrible reprisals of the Pawnees, for the massacre committed some months previously. Having therefore re- ceived our thanks and a portion of tobacco, they resumed the road to their village, just in time to escape the ven- geance of a parly of Pawnees, whom we met two days later, in quest of the Kanzas ! The Pawnees are divided into four tribes, scattered over the fertile borders of the Platte River. Though six times more numerous than the Kanzas, they have almost on every occasion been conquered by the latter, because they are far inferior to them in the use of arms, and in strength and cou- rage. Yet as the parly just mentioned seemed to have adopted decisive measures, and as their thirst of revenge had been stimulated to the highest degree by the still fresh recollection of what their mothers, their wives and children rJ Ih i:'-r, 1 1'; m t ,1 ' ' *;. I' m-'f ill 72 Superstitious Jlites- had siifl'ered, we had reason to fear for llie Kanzas. Al- ready we fancied that we saw the blood streaming on all sides, when, two days after we had passed thorn, we saw them return to meet ns. The two lirst who approaciied us, excited our attention, the one by a imman scalp, which hung suspended from the neck of his horse, the other by an American flag, which he had wrapped around his body, in the form of a cloak. This kind of attire made us tremble for the fate of our iiosts ; but tlie captain of tiie caravan hav- ing asked them by signs concerning the result of their expe- dition, they informed us that they had not even seen the enemy, and that they suffered much from the cravings of hunger. We gave to them, and to about fifteen others who followed them, both victuals and tobacco. They devoured the victuals, but did not smoke ; and, contrary to the cus- tom of the Indians, who generally expect to get a second meal after the first, they left us in a manner which indica- ted that they were dissatisfied. The suddenness of their departure, their refusal to smoke the calmut, the unexpected return of their party, the neighborhood of their villages, and their well known love of plunder — in short, every thing induced us to fear that they liad some design to make an attempt, if not upon our persons, at least upon the baggage ; but, God be praised, not one re-appeared after the depar- ture of the party. Though addicted to the practice of lying and stealing, yet, what must appear wonderful, the Pawnees are in some respects true believers, with regard to the certainty of a fu- ture life, and display a pharisaical punctuality in the obser- vance of their superstitious rites. Dancing and music, as well as fasting, prayer and sacrifice, form an essential part of their worship. The most common worship among them is that which they offer to a stuffed bird, filled with The Mediator Bird. 73 iling, Isome a fu- [bser* as part long Iwith herbs and rools, to whicli they attribute a supernatural virtue. They protest that this Manitoo had been sent to their ancestors by the Morning Star, to be their mediator when they should stand in need of some particular favor. — Hence, whenever they enter upon some important under- taking, or wish to avert some great evil, they expose the Mediator-bird to public veneration ; and in order to render both him and the Great Manitoo (or Spirit) by whom he is sent, propitious to them, they smoke the calmut, and blow the first smoke tliat issues from it towards the part of the sky where shines their protectress. On the most solemn occasions, the Pawnees add a bloody sacritice to the oblation of the calmut; and according to what they pretend to have learned from the bird and the Star, the sacrifice most agreeable to the Great Spirit is that of an enemy immolated in the most cruel manner. It is impossible to listen without horror to the recital of the cir- cumstances that attended the sacrifice of a young female, of the Scioux tribe, in the course of the year 1837. It was about seed time, and they thus sought to obtain a plentiful harvest. I shall here give the substance of the detailed ac- count, which I have given of it in a former letter. This young girl, was only aged fifteen ; after having been well treated and fed for six months, under pretence that a feast would be prepared for her at the opening of the summer season, felt rejoiced when she saw the last days of winter roll by. The day fixed upon for the feast having dawned, she passed through all the preparatory ceremonies, and was then arrayed in her finest attire, after which she was placed in a circle of warriors, who seemed to escort her for the purpose of showing her deference. Besides their wonted arms, each one of these warriors had two pieces of wood, which he had received at the hands of the maiden. The 7 1 M I 1 1 1 If, \). Ul . ■ :': I ', I:! . ! 'ir n .1 ,11 t ,i it li- Hi! 74 Traffic : '."rifice latter had on the preceding ' y ^?,riiea tliree posts, which she liad helped to fell in the nei|,'hb()ring I'orest: but suppo. sing that she was walking tu a triumph, nnd iier mind being filled with the most pleat^ing ideas, iho victim advanced to* wards the place of her sacnlicc with those (ningled feelings of joy and timidity, which, under similar circumsiances, are naturally excited in the bosom of a girl of her age. During their march, which was rather lung, the silence was interrupted only by reliujious songs and invocations to the Master of life, so that whatever allecicd the senses, ten- ded to keep up the decciilul delusion under which she liad been till that moment. Hut as soon as she had reached the place of sacritice, wlierc nothing was seen but lires, torches, and instruments of torture, the delusion began to vanish and her eyes were opened to the fate that awaited her. How great must have been the surprise, and soon after the terror which she felt, when she found it no longer possible to doubt of their intentions ? Who could describe her poignant anguish ? She burst into tears ; she raised loud cries to heaven — she begged, entreated, conjured her executioners to have pity on her youtli, her innocence, her parents, but all in vain : neither tears, nor cries, nor the promises of a trader who happened to be present, softened the hearts of these monsters. She was tied with ropes to the trunk and branches of two trees, and the most sensitive parts of her body were burnt with torches made of the wood which she had with her own hands distributed to the warriors. — When her sufterings lasted long enough to weary the fanati- cal fury of her ferocious tormentors, the great chief shot an arrow into her heart ; and in an instant this arrow was fol- lowed by a thousand others, which, after having been vio- lently turned and twisted in the wounds, were torn from them in such a manner that her whole body presented but of a ScioiLv girl. one sliapeless mass of mangled flesh, from whicli the blood streamed on all sides. When the I)lood had ceased to How, the greater saerificator approached the expiring victim, and to crown so many atrocious acts, tore out iier heart with his own hands, and after uttering the most frightful imprecations against the Scioux nation, devoured the bleeding llesh, amid the acclamations of his whole tribe. 'I'he mangled remains wore then left to be preyed upon by wild beasts, and when the blood had been sprinkled on the seed, to render it fer- tile, all retired to their cabins, cheered with the liopc of ob- taining a copious harvest. Such horrid cruelties could not but draw down the wrath of heaven upon their nation. And in fact, as soon- as the report of the sacrifice reached the Scioux, they burned with the desire to avenge their honor, and swore to a man that they would not rest satisfied till ihey should have killed as many Pawnees as the young victim had bones in her lingers and joints in her body. More than a hundred Pawnees have at length fallen beneath their tomahawks, and their fury was afterwards more increased by the massa- cre of their wives and children, of which I have spoken before. At the sijrht of so much cruelty, who could mistake the agency of the enemy of mankind, and who would re- fuse to exert himself for llie purpose of bringing these be- nighted nations to the knowledge of the true Mediator, and of the only true sacrifice, without which, it is impossible to appease the divine justice. Kev. and dear Father, yours, P. J. De S31ET, S. J. r' ! ( ' [O. ■ f LETTER IV. I In I! i'V' Eau Siicree, 14ih July, 184i Verv Rev. and Dear Father Provincial : Already two long monlhs have elapjed since we began our journey; but we are at lengtli in sight of those dear mountains that have so long been the object of our desires. They are called Rocky, because they are almost entirely formed of granite and silex, or flint stone. The length, po- sition, and elevation of this truly wonderful chain of moun- tains, have induced geographers to give to it the appella- tion of " the back-bone of the western hemisphere." Tra- versing almost the whole of North America, from north to south, containing the sources of some of the largest streams of the world, this chain has for iis branches, towards the west, " die spur of the Cordilleras," which divide the Em- pire of Mexico, and towards the east the less known but not less wonderful mountains of the Wind River, where are found the sources of the large streams that empty them- selves into the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. The Black Hills and the table lands, called Prairie hills, which sepa- rate the sources of the upper [Missouri from those of the Mississippi, the Ozark and the Masserne ridges may all be considered as so many collateral chains of the Rocky Mountains, According to trigonometrical calculations, and obser- vations, made by means of the barometer, Mr. Boneville, Rochj Mountains. 11 M( sserts that the immits of some of these mountains are 25,000 feet liigh. This height would ap- pear much exaggerated, if we consulted only the testimony of the eyes, but it is well known that the mountains which are found in immense plains, are not unlike sliips seen on the ocean ; they appear much less elevated than they are in reality. Whatever may be the height of these colossal mountains, it was at their base that we hoped to meet our dear neophytes. Hut a messenger we liad sont to acquaint them with our arrival, has just returned, and informed us that the Indians who lay encamped there, about a fortnight ago, went in a southerly direction to hunt the buffalo. We know not whether those Indians were Flat Heads or belong to another nation, and it is to obtain information on this subject, that we are going to despatch a second messenger. In the mean time, I shall continue my journal. The nu- merous notes, which, on account of our slow progress, we have been enabled to take on the spot, will warrant that ex- actness of descri[)lion. wliich is the more desirable, as it is a quality frequently wanting in the accounts given of these distant regions. Not to exceed the bounds of a lengthy letter, I shall say but little concerning perspectives, flowers, birds, animalsi, Indians, and adventures. j^ |With the exception of the mounds which run parallel to each other on both sides of the Platte river, and after pas- sing under the Black Hills, disappear at the base of the Rocky Mountains, the whole plain which we traversed for 1500 miles after we had left Wesiport, might be called the Prairie Ocean. In fact, nearly the whole of this territory is of an undulating form, and the undulations resemble the billows of the sea when agitated by the storm. On the tops of some of these elevations we have seen shells and petrifactions, such as are found on several mountains in 7* i! " I ^1 ISJ. 1 \\ i a Fi r % I 1 5 V i: t I n I ;i iMi t! I i I », ,1,-. » I r i l^'- K, if si • . wk f-fi Ml 78 Aspect of the Country. Europe. No doubt, some impartial geologists may disco- ver here, as they have done elsewhere, incontestible proofs of the deluge. A petrified fragment which I have in my possession, seems to contain a number of these shells. In proportion as one removes from the banks of the Mis- souri or penetrates into the Western regions, the forests lose much in height, density and depth, in consequence of the scarcity of water. Soon after, only the rivers are lined with narrow skirts of wood, in which are seldom seen any lofiv creeks. In the neighborhood of creeks and rivulets we generally find willow buslies, and where there is no water it would be vain to look for any thing but grass, and even ihis grass is only found in the fertile plains that lie between Weslport and the Platte river. Ttiis intimate connexion between rivers and forests is so striking to the eye, that our beasts of burden !iad not jour- neyed more than eight days through this desert, when we saw ilicm in some maimer exult and double their pace at the sight of the trees that appeared at a distance. This was chic lly observable when the day's journey had been father long. This scarcity of wood in the western regions, so much at variance widi what is seen in other parts of Noriii America, proceeds from two principal causes. In the plains on this side of Platte river, from the custom whicli tlie Indians who live here have adopted, to fire their prairie.< towards the end of autumn, in order to have better pasture at the return of spring ; but in the Far West, where the Indians do not follow this practice, (because they fear to drive away liie animals that are necessary for their subsis- tence, or to expose themselves to be discovered by the strolling parlies of their enemies,) it proceeds from the nature o! the soil, which being a mixture of sand and light earth, is every where so very barren that with the excep- n pp Rock Independence. 79 lion of the absynth that covers the plains, and the gloomy verdure that shades ihe mountains, vegetation is confined to the vicinity of rivers, — a circumstance which renders a journey through the Far West extremely long and tedious. At considerable distances, chielly between the Kanis and the Platte rivers, are found blocks of granite of different sizes and colors. The reddish is the most common. In some of the stony parts of the Black Hills are also seen numberless quantities of small pebbles of all shades. I have seen some thai were united into solid masses. If these were well polished they would present the appear- ance of fine mosaics. The columns of the House of Re- presentatives in Washington are deemed very handsome, and are made of similar concretions. On the feast of St. Peter a remarkable occurrence took place. VVe discovered an equally curious quarry, which, at first, we look for white marble, but we soon found it something more valuable. Astonished at llie facility with which we could fashion this kind of stone into any shape, most of the travellers made calmuts of it. I had several made myself, with the intention of offering them as pre- sents to the Indians, so that for the space of forty-eight hours our camp was filled, wiih Ir-nidaries. But the greater number of these c; imuts i:»!ul{l n >r witholand the action of the fire, and broke. Tl vr^s alab.'^te.'. The first rock wj? -h we saw, d;id which truly deserves the name, was the lamoLv iiocK Independence. It is of the same nature as the Rocky Mountains. At first I was led to believe that it ha 1 received this pompous name from its isolated situation and the solidity of its basis ; but 1 was afterwards told that it was called S(^ because the first travel- lers who thought of giving it a name, arrived at it on the very day when the people of the United States celebrate the ■i 11, IT' ' 7. ni ; I ■ i 1.' m m Ht : !',<',, 80 Indian Mounds. ri 11 anniversary of tncir emancipation from Great Britain. We reached this spot on the day that immediately succeeds this celchration. Wo had in our company a young English- man, as jealous of the honor of his nation as the Americans ; hence we had a double reason not to cry hurra for Indepen- dence. Still, on the following day, lest it might be said that wo passed this lofty monument of tiie desert with in- diflerencc, we cut our names on the south side of the rock, under initials (I. 11, S.) which we would wish to see en- graT-ed on every spot. On account of all these names, and of the dates that accompany them, as well as of the hiero- glyphics of Indian warriors, I have surnamed this Rock " the Great Record of the Desert." I shall add a few re- ir ^ks about the mounds that are seen in the vicinity of the Platte river. 'J'he most remarkable of all, at least that which is best known to the generality of travellers, is the mound to which they have given the name of "chimney." It is called so on account of its extraordinary form ; but in- stead of applying to it an appellation which is rather un- worthy this wonder of nature, just because it bears some re- semblance to the object after which it is named, it would have heen more proj)er to call it " the inverted funnel," as there is no object wliich it resembles more. Its whole height, including the base, body and column, is scarce less than four or five hundred feet; the column or chimney is only about one hundred and thirty feet high, so that there is nothing striking in the loftiness of its dimensions. But what excites our astonisnment, is the raanner in which thi° remnant of a mountain, composed of sand and clay, has been so shaped, and how it has for such a length of time preserved this form, in spite of liie winds that are so violent in these parts. It is true that this mound, and all those that are found near it, is composed of a successive num- 2 2 X i: 1 W I :'i hi W; • s ! I r,)f %'. % V "i The •' Chimney:' 81 i: I 1 " 1 1 ■ 1 ^ I k t ,'r 1 ■ I'i''' 1 1 ^ ' ■fi 84 Water Spout. >l f .' ; . 'I • would have made an asrcni^ion into the clouds, but liic Pow- (•r thai coiifineH tlic sea to its boundaries and saiii — " Ililli- irto fiilialt tliou conio," watoliod over our preservation. The ■spiral (-•f/luiiin inovod inaji stically towards the jN'orth, and lighted on the surface of \hv tMalle. Then, another scene was exhibited to our view. The waters, a^filated by its pow- erful action, began to turn round with frightful noise, and were j-uddtidy drawn lip to the clouds in a sj)iral form. 'I'lie column appeared to measure a mile in heiglit ; and such was the violence of the winds which came down in a perpendicular direction, th;.l in the twinkling of an eye the trees were torn and u|)rooled, and their boughs scattered in every direction. lUit what is violent does not last. Alter a few ntinutcs, the frightful visitation ceased. 'J'he colunin, not being able to sustain the weight at its base was dissolv- ed almost as quickly as it had been formed. Soon after the sunie-appeared: all was calm and we pursued our journey. In proportion as we proceeded towards the sources of this wonderful river, the shades of vegetation became more gloomy, and the brows of the mountains more cragged. Every thiiig seemed to wear the aspect, not of decay, but of age, or rather of venerable antiquity. Our joy was ex- talic as we sung the following Ode composed for the occa- sion : Non ce n'est plus unc ombre vaine, Mcs yeux out vu, j'cn siiis certain, Dans I'azur ir>in brilliant luintain, Des ■Nlonts Uochcux la haute cliainc, ^:c. :r. y r i 01 no — it is no shadow vain, ''I'hat gff'cts my sight — yon lofty chain That ])ierces the etliereal blue; The Rocky Mounts appear in view. I've seen the spotless, virgin snow, Glist'ning like gems u))on their brow — in he IIS )re ex- ^ca- '/. X ! 1 ;; I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k // .^ .^^ ^/ ^ /. i/. ^ 1.0 I.I in. 12.8 12.5 £f isa 12.0 I IL25 1 1.4 I 1.8 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 m •SJ c\ \ 6^ ^^^ '^:f^ '^ ■^ . fj; ,?"■ I '>i:ll ! As] short I Ode. 85 And o'er yon giant peak now streams The golden light of day's first beams. How from their ice-clad summits, steep, The living waters Joyous leap! And gently on thro' vallies gay, Sweeter than honey wend their way. It is because on yon proud height, The standard floats of life and light: It is, that there th' Omnipotent Hath pitched His everlasting tent — The God whose love no tongue can tell, Among his children deigns to dwell. All hail! majestic Kock — the home Where many a wand'rcryet shall come; Where God himself, from His own heart, Shall health and peace and joy impart. Sorrow adieu — farewell to fear, — The sweet-voiced hymn of peace I hear; Its tone hath touched the red-man's soul : Lo ! o'er his dark breast tear-drops roll. O ! soon the ftilent wilderness Shall echo with his song of praise; And infant lips, from morn till ev'n, Shall chaunt thy love — great King of heav'n. Father and God! how far above All human thought. Thy wondious love! How strange the path by which Thy hand Would lead the Tribes of this bleak land, From darkness, crime and misery, To live and reign in bliss with Thee! As I have been speaking of rivers I shall give (you) a short geographical description of the Missouri, which I am 8 f i. in * 86 The Missouri River. inclined to call my livcr, as I have so often ascended and descended it durintj the last four years, travelled along its banks, and crossed almost all its tributaries from the mouth ul the Yellow Stone to the place where th" mighty river mingles its turbid stream with that of the po-auelul ]Mi^;sis• sippi. I have drunk the limpid waters of its sources, and the muddy waters :tt its mouth, distant more than three thousand miles from each other. The prodigious length of its couriie, the wildness and impetuosity of its current have induced the Scioux to call it " the/wrio?inia. con- If one irk ia the bse ia loun- up- Ihave each Lllan- tic and Pacific oceans. After the junction of the forks, the Missouri for a consich'rahle distance, becomes an impetuous and foaming torrent. Below this, its bed is more spacious, and its cour.-e more tranquil. Steep rocks of a black hue jut and rise above its current to a height of nearly a thou- sand feet. The mountains, along whose base it nins, are shaded by pines, cedars, fir and turpentine trees. Some of these mountains present a solitary aspect, and wear a look of unspeakable grandeur. The river, for tlie space of seven- teen miles, is seen raging and foaming, rolling from cata- ract to cataract witjj a roaring noise that is repeated by all the ncijjhborinj; echoes. 'I'lie first of these cataracts mea- suros ninoty«eight feet in heigiit ; the second, nineteen ; the third, forty-seven, tnd the fourth, twenty-six. Below the Falls, the beautiful river of Mary, (lowing from the North, adds its peaceful waters to those o( the rapid and impetuous stream. Still lower, but on the opposite side, the Ilearborn and the Fancy disembogue themselves through mouths respectively 150 feet in width. After many other rivers of considerable widiii and extent, we come to the Yel- low Stone, the largest but one of all the tributaries of the Missouri, and resembling the latter in many respects. This river too has its source in the Rocky Mountains, and is 850 yards wide at its mouth ; its bed is spacious, its current ra- pid; its length is about 1600 miles, and at its confiuence with the Missouri it appears to be the larger of the two. For a considerable distance above the mouth its banks arc well wooded, and its bottom lands are extensive and very fertile. The grey and black bear, the big horn, the ante- lope, the stag and the common deer frequent these regions, whilst coal and iron mines are in such abundance that for 50 years they might supply fuel and materials to a countless number of steam engines. I m 94 Dmlij Prayer. fallen a victim to liie devotion to the cause of religion and 'ranci of liiH brethren. V Xavicr had j^onc to St. liOiiis at father, the age of (en, in the company of his courageous receiving bap- 3Ut reserve to d su[>plied our table with a solely that he might have the happiness of tism. He had finnlly attached himself wit th )f th e service ot the mitssion, am daily mess of fish. (jabriel, who was of mixed blood, but an adopted child of the nition, was interpreter fur the mi$)sionarics. Being the first to join us on the banks of the CJretn river, he me- rited the title of precursor of the Flat Heads. His bravery and zeal had four times induced him to travel, for our sake:', over a space of 400 miles, which separated us from the great ramp. Such were they who now greeted us. Let them tell their own story. They had prayed daily to obtain for me a happy journey and a speedy return. Their brethren continued in the same good disposition ; almost all, even children and old men, knew by heart the prayers which I had taught them the preceding year. Twice on every week day, and three times on each Sunday, the assembled tribe recited prayers in common. Whenever they moved their camp, they car- ried with them, as an ark of safety, the box of ornaments left in their custody. Five or six children, whom 1 had baptised went to heaven during my absence ; the very morrow of my departure, a young warrior whom 1 had baptised the day previous, died in consequence of a wound received from the Black Feet about three months before. — Another, who had accompanied me as far as the fort of th(^ Crows, and was as yet but a catechumen, died of sickness in returning to the tribe, but in such happy dispositions thai his mother was perfectly consoled for his loss by the con- tell the old liem ihree lyers car- lents had Ivery had mnd the Iness [thai ;on- A happy death. 96 viction thnl \m soid wan in heaven. A {.'irt, about twelve years of age, seeing herscll' on the point ol dying, had soli- cited baptism with such cirncstni^ss that shu was baptised by Pelor the Irixjuois, ami tccuivcd '.he nan;o ot" Mary. — Alter having sung u canticle in a stronger voice than usual, she died, saying: ''Oh how beautiful! I sec Mary, my mother." So many favors from heaven were calculated to instigate the malice of hell. The enemies of salvation had accordingly alleinpted to sow the cockle among the good grain, by suggesting to the chiefs of iho tribe that my con- duct would be like that of so many others, who, " once gone, had never returned." IJut the great chief had inva- riably replied : •' You wrong our father; he is not double- tongued, like so many others. lie has said: M will re- turn,' and he will return, I am sure." The interpreter added that it was this conviction which had impelled the venerable old man, notwithstanding his advanced age, to place iiimself at the head of the detachment bound for Green river : that thev had arrived at the rendezvous on the 1st of July, which was the appointed day; that they had remained there till the 16th, and would have continued to occupy the same position, had not the scarcity of provisions obliged tiiem to depart. He stated also that the whole tribe had determined to fix upon some spot as a site for a permanent village; that, with this view, they had already chosen two places which they believed to be suitable ; that nothing but our presence was required to confirm their de- termination, and they relied with such implicit confidence on our speedy arrival, that the great chief, on starting from Green river, had left there three men to await us, advising them to hold that position until no longer tenable. Here, I have much to relate that is not less edifying than serious ; but before I enter upon the chapter of noble ac« ^M : I .11 V f\,. , 1 1 I ■ M' 90 ,^n English Companion. lions, I must conclude what I had commenced in my pre- ceding letier. IJut I feel bound, before all, to pay Mr. Er- matinger, ilie captain of Fort Hall, the tribute of gratitude which we owe him. Although a proteslant by birth, this noble Englishman gave us a most friendly reception. Not only did he re- peatedly invite us to his tabh. a id sell us, at iirst cost, or at one-third of its value, in a country so remote, whatever we required ; but he also added, as pure gifts, many articles which he believed would be particu^jirly acceptable. He did more : he promised to recommend us to the good will of the Governor of «he honorable English Company, who was already prepossessed in our favor ; and, what is still more deserving of praise, he assured us that he would second our ministry among the populous nation of the Snakes, with whom he has freqiunt intercourse. So much zeal and generosity give him a claim to our esteem and gra- titude. May heaven return to him a hundred fold the bene- fits he has confeircd on us. It was at Foit Hall that we took our final leave of the American Colony, with which we had, till then, purs-ued the same route. It was previously to this, wiiile we were yet at Green river, that those who came to that wild region, merely for information or plea- sure, had turned back, with some fewer illusions than when they started out upon the journey. They were five or six in number. Among them was a young Englishman, who had been our messmate from St. Louis. In taking leave of us, this young man, who was in many respects es- timable, assured us that, if providence should ever again throw us together, the meeting would give him the highest satisfaction, and that he would always be happy to do us all the service in his power. He was of a good English fam- ily, and like most of his countrymen, fond of travel : he had 1 , The Methodist Preacher. 97 already seen the four quarters of the globe ; but qui miiltum peregrinanlur He cherished so many prejudices, however, against the Catholic religion, that, despite all our good wishes, we were of no service to him in the most es- sential relation. We recommended him to our friends. I have treasured up one of his beautiful reflections: " We must travel in the desert to witness the watchful care of Provi- dence over the wants of man." They who had started, purely with the design of seek- ing their fortune in California, and were pursuing their enterprise with the constancy which is characteristic of Americans, had left us, but a few days before our arrival at the fort, in the vicinity of the boiling springs which empty into Bear river. There now remained with us but a few of the party, who had come to the fort in order to revictual. Among the latter were the leader of the Colony and a repu- ted deacon of the Methodist sect. Both were of a peacea- ble disposition, and manifested for us the highest regard ; but the former, like so many others, being very indifferent as to religious matters, held as a maxim, " that it was best to have no religion, or else to adopt that of the country in which we live;" ant wishing to display his great Bible eruditicn, he in proof of his paradox, cited as a text of St. Paul the ancient proverb : Si fueris Romre, Romano vivite more. The minister was of the same opinion, but yet he wished some religion, it being well understood that iiis was the best. I say his, because he was neither a Methodist, a Protestant nor a Catholic — not even a Christian ; he main- tained that a Jew, a Turk, or an Idolatar may be as agreea- ble as any other in the sight of God. For the proof of his doctrine, he relied (strange to say) on the authority of St. Paul, and particularly on this text : Unus Dominus una fides. In fact, these were the very words with which he 9 I K. |7 1 fj V < i 1 i 1 n I t\ !>;- \l\ :^^ X'. 98 Influence of Prejudice. greeted us, the first time we saw him, and which formed the subject of a long valedictory discourse that he delivered in one of the meeting houses of Wesiport, previous to his departure for his western mission. By whom was he sent ? We have never ascertained. His zeal frequently induced liim to dispute with us ; it was not difllcult to show him that his ideas, with the exception of one, were vague and fluc- tuating. He acknowledged it himself; but after having wandered from point to point, he always returned to his favorite tenet, which, according to him, was the fundamen- tal principle of all true belief: " tliat the love of God is the first of duties, and that to inculcate it we must be tolerant." This was his strongest point of support, the foundation of all his reasoning, and the stimulus of his zeal. The term Catholic, according to him, was but another word for " love and philanthropy." He carried his absurdities and contra- dictions so far, tiiat he excited the hilarity of the whole camp. His ingenuous simplicity was even greater than his tolerance. For example, he once said to me : " Yesterday ene of the memb'^rs of my persuasion returned to me a book which I had Ifsnt him, slating that it contained an ex- position of the Roman creed." When I asked him his opinion of it, he replied, " that the book was full of errors;" yet it was an exposition of Methodist principles that I had given him. ** Witness," said he, with emphasis, " the blinding influence of prejudice." I had daily conversations with some one of the caravan, and frequently with several. And although Americans are slow to change their creed, we had the consolation to relieve our travelling companions of a heavy load of pre- judice against our holy religion. They parted from us, exhibiting signs of respect and veneration ; nay, even of preference for Catholicity. These controversies so com- '1 ' • 11 f/, l;i •'it's- ' ! t J •'■ •' nil it i .1 l^ 'J l^-\ m ■w I I II The ''DcviVs Entrance:^ 00 pletely engrossed my mind, my htai-t and my senses, ihat 1 arrived almost unconsciously on the banks of Snake river. Here a great danger and a profitable lesson awaited us; but before speaking of the adventures of our journey, I shall conclude what remains to be related of the country we traversed. We halted with our narrative upon the shore of the Sweet-water. This stream is one of the most beautiful tributaries of the Platte. It owes its name, indeed, to the purity of its waters. It is distinguished from its fellow tributaries by the numerous wanderings of its current — a proof that the fall of its bed is but slight. But suddenly changing its course, we see or rather hear it rushing- impe- tuously through a long cleft in a chain of mountains. These mountains, which harmonize well with the torrent, exhi- bit the most picturesque scenes ; travellers have named this spot the Devil's Entrance. In my opinion, they should have rather called it Heaven's Avenue, for if it resembles hell on account of the frightful disorder which frowns aiound it, it is still a mere passage, and it should rather be compared to the way of heaven on account of the scene to which it leads. Imagine, in short, two rows of rocks, ri- sing perpendicularly to a wonderful height, and, at the foot of these shapeless walls, a winding bed, broken, encumbered with trunks of trees, with rubbislis and with tiQiber of all dimensions ; while, in the midst of this chaos of obstacles, the roaring waves force a passage, now rushing with fury, then swelling with majesty, and anon spreading with gen- tleness, accordingly as they tind in their course a wider or more straitened passage. Above these moving and noisy scenes, the eye discerns masses of shadow, here relieved by a glance of day, there deepening in their gloom by the foliage of a cedar or pine, till finally, as the sight travels I m 'a . I 1 1 I/. ■ .!■■ i.ti ' ".I, I' ■ i '\\ 'hi \> I li 100 Oregon Territory. V ' i!i through the long vista of lofty galleries, it is greeted by a distant perspective of such mild beauty, that a sentiment of placid happiness steals upon the mind. Such is the spec- tacle we admired at the distance of nine or ten miles from the Rock Independence, on the morning of 6th July. I doubt whether the solitude of the Carthusian mo- nastery, called La Grande Chartreuse, of which so many wonders are related, can, at least at tirst sight, offer greater attractions to him whom divine grace has called to a con- templative life. As fur me, who am not called to such a state, at least exclusively, after an hour of raptures, I be- gan to understand the expression of the Carthusian friar, pulchrum tranaewitibiis ; and I hastened to proceed. Hence we directed our course more and more towards the heights of the Far West, ascending, some times clam- bering, until we reached the summit, from which we dis- covered another world. On the 7th of July we were in sight of the immense Oregon Territory. I will not pre- sume to add to the many pompous descriptions which have been given of the spectacle now before us. I shall say nothing either of the height, the number, or the variety of those peaks, covered with eternal snows, which rear their heads, with menacing aspect, to the heavens. Nor will I speak of the many streams descending from them and changing their course, with unexpected suddenness ; nor of the extreme rarification of the air with the conse- quent effect upon objects susceptible of contraction, at so great an elevation. All this is common ; but to the glory of the Lord, I must commemorate the imperious necessity I experienced, of tracing his holy name upon a rock, which towered pre-eminent amid the grandeur around. May that ever adorable name be to travellers a monument of our gratitude, and a pledge of salvation. Henceforth we de- Losf in the Desert. 101 scended towards the Pacific — first, by lollowing, then by crossing the Little and the Great Sandy Rivers. In the vicinity of the latter, as the Captain had mistaken one road for another, the caravan wandered for three days at ran- dom. I, myself, on a fine evening, strayed from the rest. I thought myself entirely lost; how was I to act? I did what every sincere believer would have done in the same circumstances, I prayed ; and then urging on my horse, I travelled several miles, when it struck me that it would be prudent to retrace my steps. I did so instantly, and it was fortunate, for the caravan was far behind. I found it en- camped ; still ignorant however of its position, and on a soil so arid that our jaded beasts were necessitated to fast for the night. Days follow, but resemble not each other; two days subsequently, we were surrounded with abundance, filled with joy, all once more united, and on thu banks of a river not less celebrated among the hunters of the west, than the shores of the Platte. This river loses itself not far below, in clefts of rocks said to be no less than two hun- dred miles in extent, among which there are countless swarms of beavers, although the trapper has never ventured to hunt them, on account of the extreme peril of the enter- prise. At a certain period of the year, both trappers and Indians flock to this spot, for the purpose of bartering all kinds of merchandise. It was here, but eight yeais ago, the wagons that first undertook to cross the Rocky Mountains, found the Pillars of Hercules, and it was here too that we found the messenger of the Flat Heads, to whom I have already alluded. This river is the Rio Colo- rado of the West. . . . We rested two days upon its banks, with the company of Captain F., who had just re- turned from California. What they told us concerning that distant country dissipated many illusions, and caused 9* • M i I I i '\ n ■1 • fym i -ImA ;»V -ii 102 Salt Lake. t if ■■h 1 some of our companions, who travelled for amusement, to return. On the 20lh of July we seriously thought of continuing our journey. To a company like ours, it was not an easy matter. The remembrance uf the expedition of Bonneville was still fresh in the minds of all ; but our object was not the same; we had no ailicles but such as were necessary. — They could be transported conveniently only by wagons. We placed all our confidence in God. We soon crossed the river, and our equippage was seen coming in all direc- tions, over vallies and mountains. We were compelled to clear a passage, some times in the middle of a ravine, some times on the declivity of a rock, and frequently through bushes. We travelled in this manner for ten days, to reach Bear river, which flows through a wide and beauti- ful valley, surrounded by lofty mountains and often inter- sected by inaccessible rocks. We continued our march through it duringeight successive days. The river resembles in its course the form of a horse shoe, and falls into the great Salt lake, which has no communication with the sea. On our way, we met several families of Soshonees or Snake Indians, and Soshocos or Uprooters. They speak the same language, and are both friends to the whites. The only difll'erence we could observe between them, was that the latter were by far the poorer. They formed a gro- tesque group, such as is not to be seen in any other part of the Indian territory. Represent to yourself a band of wretched horses, disproportionate in all their outlines, load- ed with bags and boxes to a height equal to their own, and these surmounted by rational beings young and old, male and female, in a variety of figures and costumes, to which the pencil of a Hogarth or a Breugel could scarcely do justice, and you will have an idea of the scene we witnessed. One ement, to 4- ontinuing it an easy onneville t was not Bssary. — wagons. n crossed all direc- ipelled to ne, some ' through days, to d beauti- Len inter- ir march esembles the great lea. On )r Snake >eak the s. The was that 1 a gro- r part of band of es, load- wn, and nalc and lich the justice, d. One ^■''u 1 ; • ; .'lisp It ti V i'M m f :« M Hi X. r. Soda Springs. 108 5 of these animals, scarcely four feel high, had for its load four large sacks of dried meat, two on each side, above which were tied several other objects, terminating in a kind of plat- form on the back of the living beast; and, on the siininiit oi the whole construction, at a very high elevation, was seated cross-legged on a bear skin a very old person smoking his calmut. At his side, on another Rosinante, was mounted an old Goody, probably his wile, seated in the same man- ner on the top of sacks and bugs, that contained all sorta ut roots, dried beans and fruits, grains and berries; in short, all such comestibles as the barren mountains and the beau- tiful vailies alTord. These they carried to their winter en- campment. Some times wo have seen a whole family on the same animal, each according to his age, the children u: front, the women next, and the men behind. On two occa- sions I saw thus mounted, five persons, of whom two at least had the appearance of being as able to carry the pooi horse as the horse was to support the weight of these two Soshocos gentlemen. Some places on the Bear river exhibit great natural curi- osities. A square plain of a few acres in extent presents an even surface of fuller's earth of pure whiteness, like that of marble, and resembling a field covered with dazzling snow. Situated near this plain are a great many springs, diflering in size and temperature. Several of them have a slight taste of soda, and the temperature of these, is cold. The others are of a milk warm temperature, and must he whole- some ; pcrh-ips they are not inlerior to the celebrated waters of the Spa, or of the lime springs in IJelgium. I am in- clined to believe so, though I am not firm in the opinion; at all events, they are surrounded by the mountains over which our wagons found it so difTicult to pass. I therefore invite neither sick nor sound to test them. In the same '■I M t f ; ' '..i i i« ;i1 '■ 1' iii:: 104 Ji midnis^ht Journey. I J I' locality tlicro is a hole in the ground, ont of which air and water escape alternately. The earth for some distancp around resounds like an immense vault, and is apt to frighten the solitary traveller as he passes along. It was here that we left Hear Kiver. On the 14th of August our wagons having proceeded ten hours without intermission, arrived at the outlet of a defile which seemed to ns the end of the world. On our riglit and left were frightful mountains; in our rear a road which we were by no means tempted tu retrace ; in front a passage through which rushed a torrent; but so small that the torrent itself seemed with difliculty, to force its way. Our beasts of burthen were, for the first time, exhausted. Murmurs arose against the captain, who, however, was imperturbable, and as he never shrunk from difficulties, advanced to reconnoitre the ground. In a few moments he made us a sign to ap- proach ; one hour after we had surmounted every obstacle, for we had traversed the highest chain of the Rocky Moun- tains and were nearly in sight of Fort Hall. On the even- ing previous to the departure of the camp from the Soda Springs, I directed my course towards the fort, to make a few necessary arrangements. The young F. Xavier was my only companion. We were soon involved in a labyrinth of mountains, and about midnight, we were on the summit of the highest chain. My poor guide, being able to see nothing through the darkness but frightful precipices, was 80 pitifully embarrassed that after veering about for a while, like a weather-cock, he confessed himself lost. That was not a place, nor was it a time, to wander at random; I, there- fore, took, what I considered, the only alternative, that of waiting for the morning sun to extricate us from our em- barrassment. Wrapped up in ray blanket and with my saddle for a pillow, I stretched myself upon the rock, and m ' Jlnivfif at Fort Hall. 105 immcdialbly fell into a sound sleep. Early liie next morn- ing, wc descended by a bfii:ill cleft \u ific rocks, which the obscurity of the night had coiiCL.ilnd and arrived on a plain watered by the New Port, one of the tributaries of Snake River. We trotted or galloppcd over fifty nnled in the course of the day. Tiio whole way presented evident re- mains of vulcanic eruptions ; |)iles and veins of lava were visible in all directions, and the rocks bore marks of having been in a state of fusion. The rivor, in its whole length, exhibits a succession of beaver puiidii, emptying into each other by a narrow opening in each dike, thus forming a fall of between three and six feet. All these dikes are of stone, evidently the work of the water and of the same character and substance as the stalactites found in some caverns. We arrived late in the evening, within half a mile of the Fort, but being unable to see our way in the darkness, and not knowing where wc were, wu encamped for the nigiit among the bushes, near the margin of a small brook. I have the honor to bu Rev. Father Provincial, Your most humble and obedient servant and son, P. J. De Smet, S. J. Si ' t ! , tt i *'. m lit I LETTER VI. m M Camp of the Big-Face, 1st Sept. 1841. Rev. and Dear Father Provincial : Nearly four months liad elapsed since our departure from VVestpori, wlien we met the main body of the nation to which we had been sent. Here we found the principal chiefs, four of whom had advanced a day's journey to wel- come us. They met iis at one of the sources of the Mis- souri called Beaver-Head, where we had encamped. Hav- ing crossed the small river under the direction of these new guides we came to an extensive plain, at the wes- tern part of which the Flat Heads lay encamped. This was on the 30lh of August, and it was only towards night that we could distinctly discern the camp. A number of runners who rapidly succeeded each other, informed us that the camp was not far distant. Contentment and joy were de- picted on their coantenances. Long before the Flat Head warrior, who is surnamed the Bravest of the Brave, sent me his finest horse to Fort Hall, having strongly recommended that no one should mount him before he was presented to me. Soon after the warrior himself appeared, distinguish- ed by his superior skill in horsemanship, and by a large red scarf, which he wore after the fashion of the Marshals of France. He is the handsomest Indian warrior of my ac- quaintance. He came with a numerous retinue. We pro- ceeded at a brisk trot, and were now but two or three miles from the camp, when at a distance we descried a warrior of Narrative of Muratori. 107 was that ners the de- ead t me ided I to ish- red s of ac- ro- iles rof lofty stature. A number of voices shouted Paul ! Paul ! and indeed it was Paul, the great chief, who had just arrived after a long absence, as if by special permission of God, to afibrd iiim the satisfaction of introducing me per- sonally to his people. After mutual and very cordial de- monstrations of friendship, the good old chief insisted upon reluming to announce our arrival. In less than half an hour all hearts were united and moved by the same sentiments. The tribe had the appearance of a flock crowding with eagerness around their shepherd. The mothers offered us their little children, and so moving was the scene that we could scarcely refrain from tears. This evening was. cer- tainly one of the happiest of our lives. We could truly say that we had reached the peaceful goal. All previous dangers, toils and trials, were at an end and forgotten. The hopeful thought that we would soon behold the happy days of the primitive Christians revive among these Indians, filled our minds, and the main subject of our conversations became the question: " What shall we do to comply with the requisitions of our signal vocation?" I engaged Father Point, who is skilled in drawing and architecture, to trace the plan of the Missionary Stations. In my mind, and still more in my heart, the material was essentially connected with the moral and religious plan. Nothing appeared to us more beautiful than the Narrative of Muratori. We had made it our Vade Mecum. It is chiefly to these subjects that we shall devote our attention for the future, bidding farewell to all fine perspectives, ani- mals, trees and flowers, or favoring them only with an occasional and hasty glance. From Fort Hall we ascended the Snake River, also called Lewis' Fork, as far as the mouth of Henry's Fork. This is unquestionably the most barren of all the moun- P: 'I . ;' «l fli I %;>■ m 'ill ' I .4 108 The ''Father's Defiled tain deserts. It abounds in absynth, cactus, and all such plants and herbs as are chiefly found on arid lands. We had to resort to fishing for the support of life, and our beasts uf burden were compelled to fast and pine; for scarcely a mouthful of grass could be found during the eight days which it took us to traverse this wilderness. At a distance we beheld the colossal summits of the Rocky Mountains. The three Tetons were about fifty miles to our right, and to the left we had the three mounds at a distance of thirty miles. From the mouth of Henrv's Fork we steered our course towards the mountains over a sandy plain furrowed by deep ravines, and covered with blocks of granite. We spent a day and night without water. On the following day we came to a small brook, but so arid is this porous soil, that its waters are soon lost in the sand. On the third day of this truly fatiguing journey we entered into a beau- tiful defile, where the verdure was both pleasing and abun- dant, as it is watered by a copious rivulet. We gave to this passage the name of" the Father's Defile," and to the rivulet that of St. Francis Xavier. From the Father's Defile, to the place of our destination, the country is well watered, for it abounds with small lakes and rivulets, and is surrounded by mountains, at whose base are found num- berless springs. In no part of the world is the water more limpid or pure, for whatever may be the depth of the rivers, the bottom is seen as if there were nothing to intercept the view. The most remarkable spring which we have seen in the mountains, is called the Deer's lodge. It is found on the bank of the main Fork of the Bitter Root or St. Mary's River; lo this Fork I have given the name of St. Ignatius. This spring is situated on the top of a mound thiity feet high, in the middle of a marsh. It is accessible I Ji remarkable spring: 109 on one side only. The water bubbles up, and escapes through a number of openings at ihe base of the mound ihe circumference of which appears to be about sity feet! The waters at the base are of different temperatures: hot lukewarm and cold, though but a ie^ steps distant from each other Some are indeed so hot that meat may be bo.Ied in them. We actually tried the experiment. I remain, Rev. Father Provincial, Yours, &c. P. J. De Smet, S. J. m ' U f !• t ' I I i ! V M m LETTER VII. i ii<,'! a 'fc St. Ignatius' River, 10th Sept. 1841. Rev. and Dear Father Provincial : I INFORMED your Reverence that flowers are found ia abundance near the rock called the Chimney. Whilst we were there Father Point culled one flower of every kind, and made a fine nosegay in honor of the Sacred heart of Jesus, on the day of the Feast. As we proceeded towards the Black Hills, the flowers diminished in number, but now and then we found some which we had not seen any where. I have taken notice of many of them, for the amusement of amateurs. Among such as are double, the most common and those that are chiefly characterised by the soil on which they grow, are to be found on this side the Platte River. The rose-colored lupine flourishes in the plain contiguous to the Platte, as far as the Chimney. Beyond it grows a medicinal plant, bearing a yellow flower with five petals, called the prairie epinette ; and still farther on, where the soil is extremely barren, are seen three kinds of the prickly- pear ; the flowers of these are beautiful, and known among Botanists by the name of Cactus Jlmerkana. They have already been naturalized in the flower gardens of Europe. The colors of the handsomest roses are less pure and lively than the carnation of this beautiful flower. The exterior of the chalice is adorned with all ihe shades of red and green. The petals arc evasatcd like those of the lily. It is belter Movnlain flowers. 1 11 adapted than the rose to serve as an emblem of the vain pleasures of tliis nether world, for the thorns that surround it are more numerous, and it almost touches the grountl. Among the Simples, the mostelegant is theblue-bell of our gardens, which however, far surpasses it by the beauty of its form, and the nicety of its shades, varying from the white to the deepest azure. Adam's Needle, found only on the most barren elevation, is the finest of all pyramidals. About the middle of its stem, which is generally about three feet high, begins a pyramid of flowers, growing close to each other, highly shaded with red, and diminishing in size as they approach the summit, whicii terminates in a point. Its foot is protected by a number of hard, oblong, ribbed, and sharp leaves, which Iiave given it the name of Adam's Needle. The root is commonly of the thickness of a man's arm, its color white, and its form resembling that of the carrot. The Indians eat it occasionally and the Mexicans use it to manufacture soap. There are many other varie- ties of flowers some of them very remarkable and rare even in America, whicli are still without a name even among travellers. To one of the principal, distinguished by hav- ing its bronzed leaves disposed in such a manner as to imi- tate the chapter of a Corinihian column, we have given the name of Corinthian. Another, a kind of straw color, by the form of its stem, and its division into twelve branches, brought to our minds the famous dream of the Patriarch Jo- seph, and we have called it the Josephine. A third, the handsomest of all the daisies (lieines Marguerites) that I have ever seen, having a yellow disk, with black and red shades, and seven or eight rays, any of which would form a fine flower, has been named by us the Dominical, not only because it appeared like the Lady and Mistress of all the flowers around, but also because we discovered it on Sunday. i, :Vi h ■ 'f| ?■!■• i P , ■?; l'^ l:hii, m return to the charge till oilier wood is proviiled and thrt .n on the fire, so that the traveller's sleep is frequenily inter- rupted, which proves very annoying after the I'atigue of a troublesome journey. Another species of insects, called brulots, are found by myriads in the desert, and are not less troublesome than the mnsquito. They are so small that they are scarcely perceptible, and light on any part of the body that is uncovered, penetrating even into the eyes, ears and nostrils. To guard against them, the traveller, even in the warmest weather, wears gloves, ties a handkerchief over his forehead, neck and ears, and smokes a short pipe or a cigar to drive them from his eyes and nostrils. The fire-fly is a harmless insect. When they are seen in great numbers, darting their phosphoric light through the dark- ness, it is a sure sign that rain is at hand. Tlie light which they emit is very brilliant, and appears as if it proceeded from wandering meteors. It is a favorite amusement with the Indians to catch these insects, and after rubbing the phosphoric matter over their faces, to walk around the camp, for the purpose of frightening children and exciting mirth. As our hunters were scarcely ever disappointed in find- ing game, we have seldom had recourse to fishing; hence our acquaintance with the finny race is rather limited.-— On some occasions, when provisions were becoming scarce, the line had to supply the place of the gun. The fish which we generally caught were the mullet, two kinds of trout, and a species of carps. Once, whilst we lay en- camped on the banks of Snake river, I caught more than a hundred of these carps in the space of an hour. The an- chovy, the sturgeon, and the salmon, abound in the rivers of the Oregon Territory. There are six species of salmon. They come up the rivers towards the end of April, and ir I, p ■•i % : i "' J ;. i I-"' •i:''i ■i h 1 1 1 '.i' ; .1, .1,1' ' II J' '■ a' II i m \ 4 li 116 Quadrtf/teils. after spawnini,', never return ; but the young ones go down to the sea in September, and it is supposed that ihey rt- enler the rivers the fourth year after they have left them. QuAnuri'KDS. 'I'he Beaver seems to have chosen this country for his own. Every one knows how they work, and what use they make of their teeth and tail. What we were told by the trappers is probably unknown to many. — When they are about constructing a dam, they examine all the trees on the bank, and (.hose the one that is most bent over the water on the side where they want to erect their fort. If they find no tree of this kind they repair to another place, or patiently wait till a violent wind ^ives the requisite inclination to some of the trees. Some o( the Indian tribes believe that the beavers are a degraded race of imman beings, whose vices and crimes have induced the Great Spirit to punish them by changing them into their present form ; and they think, after the lapse of a number of years, their punishment will cease, and they will be restored to their original shape. The/ even believe that these animals use a kind of language to communicate their thoughts to each other, to consult, deliberate, pass sentence on delinquents, &c. The Trappers assured us that such beavers as are unwilling to work, are unanimously pro- scribed, and exiled from the Republic, and that they are obliged to seek some abandoned hole, at a distance from the rest, where they spend the winter in a state of starva- tion. These are esily caught, but their skin is far inferior to that of the more industrious neighbors, whose foresight and perseverance have procured them abundant provi- sions, and a shelter against the severity of the winter sea- son. The flesh of the beaver is fat and savory. The feet arc deemed the most dainty parts. The tail afTords a sub- stitute for butter. The skin is sold for nine or ten dollars' Quadrupals. 117 »rs' wort!) of provisions or merchandise, tlic value of wliicli does not amount to a single silver dollar. For a jjill of whiskey, which has not cost the trader morn than three or four cents, is sometimes sold for llirce or four dollars, though the chief virtue which it possesses is to kill the hody and soul of the buyer. Wo need not wonder then when wc sen that wholesale dealers in this poisonous ar- ticle realize larse fortunes in a very short lime, and llint the retailers, of whom some received as much as eiiihl hundred dollarp per annum, often present a most miserable appear- ance before the year expires. The Honorable Hudson Hav Companv docs not belonj; to this class of trai'crs. \\\ ihem the sale of all sorts of iiquors is strictly forbidden. Tiic Otter is an inhabitant of the mountain rivers. His color is dark brown or black. Like the beaver, lie is in- cessantly pursued by the hunters, and the number of both these animals is yearly diminished. Among other amphi- bious animals we tind two species of the frog. One does not difl'er from the European, but the other oders scarcely any resemblance. It has a tail and hotns and is only found on the most arid soil. 13v some of our trav»jllers it was called the Salamander. Opossums are common here. 'I'luy arc generally found near marshes and ponds that abound in small claw fish, of which they are extremely fond. To catch them he places himself on the bank, and lets his long hairless tail hang down in the water. The crawfish are allured by the bait, and as soon as they put their claws to it, the opossum throws them up, seizes thorn sideways between his teeth, and carries them to some distance from the water, where he greedily but cautiously devours his prey. The Badger inhabits the whole extent of the desert; he is seldom seen, as he retires to his hole at the least ap- 11 ,'ll- 1 U. ! 118 tQmnutl i}istuict. '.•f i II ! proacli of (Jangcr. Some naliiralijils refpr this animal to ilic iL'pnuine Ursus. lis size is thai of the l)oinioM?e i its color silver grey ; its paws are short, and its strciij^th pro- digious. A Canadian having seized one as he entered the hole, he required the assistance of another rnan to pull him out. The Prairie Dog, in shape, color and agility, more re- semblos the squirrel than the animal from which it has taken its name. They live together in separate lodges, to irth which they th \\ th The umber of several tiiousanc throw up to constiuct their lodges, forms a kind of slope which prevents the rain from entering the holes. At the approach of man, this little animal runs into its loilge, ut- tering a piercing cry, which puts the whole tribe on their guard, After some minutes, the b daunted, and would have attacked them, had they been a hundred times more numerous. Pilchimo, brandishing his musket in the air, started ofT with the greatest rapidity, and was followed by three or four others. They crossed the mountain and disappeared, and the whole camp made ready to repel the assailants. The horses were hitched and the men under arms, when we saw our brave Indians return over the mountain, followed by a dozen others. The latter were Banacs, who had united rather with a mind to fly than to attack us. Among them was a chief, who showed the most favorable dispositions. I had a long conference with him on the subject of religion, and he promised that he would use all his endeavors to engage his men to adopt re- ligious sentiments. Both he and his retinue left us the day after the arrival of the Flat Heads, who came to wish us joy for the happy issue of our long journey. We here re- marked how the power of reason acts upon the heart of the savage. The Banac chief was brollier to an Indian of the tribe who had been killed by one of the Fiat Head chiefs present on this occasion. They saluted each other in our presence and separated as truly Christian warriors would have done, who show enmity to each other only on the field of battle. Yet as the Flat Heads had more than once, been basely betrayed by the Banacs, the former did not offer to smoke the calmut. I hope that we shall have no difficulty to bring on a reconciliation. The Flat Heads will undoubt- edly follow the advice we shall give them, and I feel confi- dent that the Banacs will be satisfied with the conditions. I have the lionor to be Rev. and dear Father Provincial, Your devoted servant and son, P. J. De Smet, S. J. ♦I '•I 'J M I I 1 •11! 1 1'f m r> if LETTER IX. il:. St. Mary's, 18th October, 1841. Rev. and Dear Father: After a journey of four months and a half on horseback through the desert, and in spite of our actual want of bread, wine, sugar, fruit, and all such things as are called the con- veniences of life, we find our strength and courage increas- ed, and are better prepared than ever to work at the con- version of the souls that Providence entrusts to our care. Next to the Author of all good things, we returned thanks to her whom the church reveres as the Mother of her Divine Spouse, since it has pleased the Divine goodness to send us the greatest consolations on several days consecrated to her honor. On the feast of her glorious Assumption we met the vanguard of our dear neopi^yles. On the Sunday with- in the Octave, we, for the first lime since my return, cele- brated the Holy Mysteries among them. On the following Sunday our good Indians placed themselves and their chil- dren under the Immaculate Heart of Mary, of which we then celebrated the feast. This act of devotion was renew- ed by the greai chief in the name of his whole tribe, on the feast of her Holy Name. On the 24th of September, the feast of our Lady of Mercy, we arrived ai the river called Bitter Root, on the banks of which we have chosen the site for our principal missionary station. On the first Sun- day of October, feast of the Rosary, we took possession of the promised land, by planting a cross on the spot wiiich liaising of the House of Prayer. 133 we had chosen for our first residence. What motives of encouragement does not the Gospel of the present Sunday add to all these mentioned before. To-day too we celebrate the Divine Maternity, and what may we not expect from the Virgin Mother who brought forth her Son for the salvation of the world. On the feast of her Patronage we shall offer by her mediation to her Divine Son, twenty-five young Indians, who aie to be baptized on that day. So many favors have induced us unanimously to proclaim Mary the protectress of our mission, and give her name to our new residence. These remarks may appear silly to such as attribute eve- ry thing to chance or necessity, but to such as believe in the wise dispensations of the Providence of God, by which all things are governed and directed, all these circum- r,«ances, together with the wonderful manner in ',vhich we ' ; been called, sent and led to this new mission ; and h';". more the good dispositions manifested by the Indians, will appear very proper motives to inspire us wiih fresh courage, and with the hope of establishing here, on a small scale, the order and regularity which once distinguished our missions in Paraguay. This hope is not founded on ima- gination, for whilst I am writing these lines, I hear the joy- ful voices of the carpenters, re-echoing to the blows on the smith's anvil, and I see them engaged in raising the house of prayer. Besides, three Indians, belonging to the tribe called Pointed Hearts, having been informed of our arrival among the Flat Heads, have just come to entreat us to have pity on them. " Father," said one of them to me, " we are truly deserving your pity. We wish to serve the Great Spirit, but we know not how. We want some one to teach us. For this reason we make application to you." O had some of my brethren, now so far distant from us, been pre- sent here last Sunday, when towards night we raised the 12 :.i:!f, illifl M il ,1:^1 i^ ji ■ M i. 1 m '•■S'i dm (•':'f liii !S K 134 k\ Baptism of a Chief. L>3 tri \i.i august sign of salvation, the standard of the cross, in this small but zealous tribe; how their heaits would have been moved on seeing the pious joy of these children of the fo- rest! What sentiments of faith and love did they exhibit on this occasion, when headed by their chief, they came to kiss the foot of the cross, and then prostrate on their knees, made a sacred promise, rather to suffer death a thousand times, than to forsake the religion of Jesus Christ ! Who knows how many of this chosen band may be destined to become cposiles and martyrs of our holy religion ! Were we more numerous, I feel confident that many other tribes would become members of the kingdom of God ; perhaps more than two hundred thousand might be converted to Christ. The Fiat Heads and the Pointed Hearts, it is true are not numerous tribes, but they are surrounded by many otliers who evince the best dispositions. The Ponderas or Pends-d'oreilles are very numerous, and live at a distance of four or five days journey from our present establishment. The chief who governed them last year and who has been baptized and called Peter, is a true apostle. In my first visit to them I baptized two hundred and fifty of their chil- dren. Many other tribes have the same origin, and tliough difTering in name, their languages are nearly allied. Next to these are found the Spokans, who would soon follow the example of the neighboring tribes; the Pierced Noses, who are disgusted at the conduct of the Protestant ministers that have settled among them; the Snakes, the Crows and the Banacs whose chief we have seen. Last year I visited the Sheyennes, whom I twice met on the banks of the Platte ; the numerous nation of the Seioux, and the three allied tribes called Mandans, Arickarees and Minatarees, who all have given me so many proofs of respect and friendship ; the Omahas, with whom I have had so many conferences on Character of the Black Feel. 135 •iii'" the subject of religion, and many others who seern inclined to embrace the truth. The Black Feet are the only Indians of whose salvation we would have reason to despair, if the ways of God wore the same as those of man, for they are murderers, thieves, traitors, and all that is wicked. But were not the Chiqui- tos, the Chiriquans, the Ilurcns, and the Iroquois equally wicked before their conversion, which required much time and great help from above? And is it not to the last, that, un- der God, the Flat Heads owe their desire of becoming mem- bers of his church, and the first germs of the copious fruit that has been produced among them ? What is more, the Black Feet are not hostile to Black Gowns. We have been assured by other Indians that we would have nothing to fear, if we presented ourselves amongst them as minis- ters of religion. AVhen last year I fell into the hands of one of their divisions, and it was ascertained that I was an interpreter of the Great Spirit, they carried me in triumph on a buffalo robe to their village, and invited me to a ban- quet, at which all the great men of the tribe assisted. It was on this occasion, that, whilst I said grace, I was asto- nished to see that they struck the earth with one hand and raised the other towards heaven, to signifv that the earth produces nothing but evil, whilst all that is good comes from above. From all this you will easily conclude that the harvest is great, whilst the laborers are few. It is the opinion of the Missionaries who accompany me, and of the travellers I have seen in the Far West, in short, of all those who have become acquainted with the Flat Heads, that they are characterised by the greatest simplici- ty, docility and uprightness. Yet, to the simplicity of children is joined the courage of heroes. They never be- gin the attack, but wo to e;uch as provoke them or treat v-A 'li:. ¥■ * I,' if' ^1 YA Slh if 1 ) 136 Remarkable Battle. them unjustly. A handful of their warriors will not shrink from an enemy twenty times more numerous than they ; they will stand and repel the assault, and at last put them to flight, and make them repent their rashness. Not long before my first arrival among them, seventy men of the tribe, finding themselves forced to come to an engagement with a thousand Black Feet warriors, determined to sustain the attack, and rather to die than retreat. Before the en- gagemeiit they prostrated themselves and addressed such prayers as they had learned to the Great Spirit. They rose full of courage, sustained the first shock, and soon rendered, the victory doubtful. The fi{»ht, with several interruptions, was continued five successive days, till at last the Black Feet, astounded at the boldness of their antagonists, were panic struck, and retreated from the scene of action, leaving many killed and wounded on the field of battle, whilst not one warrior of the Flat Meads was killed. But one died of the wounds he had received, and his death hap- pened several months after the engagement, on the day suc- ceeding his baptism — (though the point of an arrow had pierced his skull.) It was on the same occasion that Pil- chimo, whom I have already mentioned, gave remarkable proofs of valor and attachment to his fellow warriors. All the horses were on the point of falling into the enemy's hand. Pilchimo was on foot. Not far ofli' was a squaw on horseback; to see the danger, to take the squaw from her horse and mount it himself, to gallop to the other horses, and bring them together, and drive them into the camp, was the alFair of a few minutes. Another warrior, named Sechelnield, saw a Black Foot separated from his company, and armed with a musket. The Black Foot, taking the warrior for one of his own tribe, asked the Flat Head to let him mount behind him. The latter wishing to \ Qt shrink in ihey; put them Not long n of the agement ) sustain ! the en- lecl such liey rose 'endered. iiptions, e Black igonists, r action, f battle, d. But alh hap- 'ay sue- w had at Pil- rkable rriors. the was a squaw other to the arrior, m his Foot, e Flat ing to I Simplicify and sincerity. 137 make himself master of the musket, agreed to the proposal. They advance on the plain, till Sechelmed seeing that the place favored his design, seizes his fellow rider's weapon, exclaiming; •' Black Foot! I am a Flat Head, let go your musket." He wrests it from his hands, despatches him, remounts the horse, and gallops off in pursuit of the enemy. The following feat equally deserves to be recorded : A Black Foot warrior was taken and woi'"'!" ' whilst in the act of stealing a horse. The night was di.iK and the wound had rendered him furious. He held his loaded gun, and threatened death to any one that should approach him. Peter, one of the chiefs already mentioned, though diminu- tive in size, and far advanced in years, felt his cmirage re- vived ; he runs up to the enemy, and with one blow fells him to the ground. This done ha throws himself on his knees, and raising his eyes towards heaven, he is reported to have said : " Great Spirit ! thou knowest that I did not kill this Black Foot from a desire of revenge, but because I was forced to it; be merciful to him in the other world. I forgive him from the bottom of my heart all the evils which he has wished to inflict upon us, and to prove the sincerity of my words I will cover him with my garment." This Peter was baptized last year, and became the apostle of his tribe. Even before baptism, his simplicity and sincerity prompted him to give this testimony of himself: " If ever I have done evil it was through ignorance, for I have always done what I considered good." It would be tedious to give un account of his zealous endeavors. Every morning, at an early hour, he lides through the whole village, stops at every hut, speaks a few words of encouragement and re- proof, as circumstances require, and exhorts all to be faith- ful in the performance of their religious and social duties. 12* r' :-t!''; M,^.l n I i "1 m 138 Piety of the Flat Heads. I have spoken of the simplicity and the courage of the Flat Heads; I shall make some other remarks concerning their character. They little resemble the majority of the Indians, who are, generally speaking, uncouth, impor- tunate, improvident, insolent, stubb.;n and cruel. — The Flat Heads are disin rested, generous, devoted to their brethren and friends ; irreproachable, and even exem- plary, as regards probity and morality. Among them, dis- sensions, quarrels, injuries and enemilies are unknown. During my stay in the tribe last year, I have never remarked any thing that was contrary to modesty and decorum in the manners and conversation of the men and women. It is true that the children, whilst very young, are entirely without covering, but this is a general custom among the Indians, and seems to have no bad effect upon them ; we are determined, however, to abolish this custom as soon as we shall be able to do it. Wiih respect to religion, the Flat Heads are distinguished by the firmness of their faith, and the ardor of their zeal. Not a vestige of their former superstitions can be discovered. Their confidence in us is unlimited. They believe without any difficulty the most profound mysteries of our holy religion, as soon as they are proposed to them, and they do not even suspect that we might be deceived, or even could wish to deceive them. I have already mentioned what exertions they have made to obtain Black-gowns for their tribe; the journeys, underta- kings, the dangers incurred, the misfortunes suffered to at- tain their object. Their conduct during my absence from them has been truly regular and edifying. They attend divine service with the greatest punctuality, and pay the most serious attention to the explanation of the Catechism. What modesty and fervent piety do they not exhibit in A great Chief. 139 their prayers, and with what humble simplicity they speak of their former blindness, and of such things as tend to re- flect honor upon their present conduct. On this last sub- ject their simplicity is truly admirable : ii Father," some will say, with down cast eyes, •» what I tell you now I have never mentioned to any one, nor shall I ever mention it to others ; and if I speak of it to you, it is because you wish and have a right to know it." The chiefs, who might be more properly called the fathers of the tribe, having only to express iheir will, and are obeyed, arc always listened to, and are not less remark- able for their docility in our regard than for llie ascendancy they posseiis over their people. The most influential among them, surn;imed "The Lilile Ciiief," from the smallness of his stature, whether considered as a christian or a warrior, might stand a comparison with the most re- nowned character of ancient chivalry. On one occasion, he sustained the assaults of a whole village, which, contrary to all justice, attacked his people. On another occasion,' when the Banacs had been guilty of the blackest treason, he marched against them with a party of warriors not one- tenth the number of their aggressors. But, under such a leader, his liiilo band believed themselves invincible, and invoking the protection of heaven, rushed upon the enemy, and took signal vengeance of the traitors, killing nine of their number. More would have been killed, had not the voice of Litde Chief arrested them in the very heat of the pursuit, announcing that it was the Sabb.^th, and the hour of prayer. Upon this signal, they gave over the pursuit, and returned to their camp. Arrived there, they imme- diately, without thinking of dressing their wounds, fell upon their knees in the dust, to render to the Lord of Hosts the honor of the victory. Little Chief had received a ball \yj ^1! 1 ir m ■':i-. I? 5 > i\ 140 *^n exemplary Chief, through the right hand, which had entirely deprived him of its use ; but seeing two of his comrades more severely wounded than himself, he with his other hand rendered them every succor in his power, remaining the whole night in attendance upon them. On several other occa- sions, he acted with equal courage, prudence and human- ity, so that his reputation became widily spread. The Nez-perces, a nation far more numerous than the Flat Heads, came to offer him the dignity of being their Great Chief. He might have accepted it without detriment to the lights of any one, as every Indian is free to leave his chief, and place himself uader any other head he may think proper, and, of course, to accept any higher grade that may be offered to him. But Little Chief, content with the post assigned him by Providence, refused the offer, however honorable to him, with this simple remark, "By the will of the Great Master of life I was born among the Flat Heads, and if such be His will, among the Flat Heads I am determined to die;" — a patriotic feeling, highly hono- rable to him. As a warrior, still more honorable to his character are the mildness and humility manifested by him. He said to me, once: "Till we came to know the true God, alas, how blinded were we ! We prayed, it is true — but to whom did we address our prayers? In truth, I know not how the Great Spirit could have borne with us so long." At present his zeal is most exemplary ; not con- tent with being the foremost in all the offices at chapel, he is always the first and last at the family prayers, and even before break of day he is heard singing the praises of his Maker. His characteristic trait is mildness; and yet he can assume due firmness, not to say severity of manner, when he sees it necessary to exercise more rigorous disci- pline. Some days before our arrival, one of the young 11 ' ' '• Im Death of a young woman. 141 ...ii his him. true ue — th, I IS so con- , he even 'his t he ner, isci- ung women had absented herself from prayer, without a siifTi- cient reason. Ho sent for her, and after reading her a lec- ture before nil the household, enforced his motives for greater attention in future, by a smart application of the cane. And how did the young offender receive the cor- rection ? With the most humble and praiseworthy sub- mission. The Flat Heads arc fond of praying. After tlie regular evening prayer, thoy will assi^inMc in their tents to pray or sing canticles. These pious exercises will I'rerpioiitly bo prolonged till a l;ite hour; atid if any wake during tlm night, they begin to pray. Before makin;' his prayer, the good old Simoon i^ets up and rakes out llic live co:il-> upon his hearth, and when his prayer is done, which is always preceded and followed by the sign of the cross, he smokes his calmut and then turns in airain. This he will do three or four times during tha night. There wai= a lime, also, when these more watchful spirits of the household, not content with praying themselves, would awaken the sleep- ers, anxious to make them partakers of ihu nood work. — These pious excesses had sprung from a little piece of ad- vice I had aivcn them on my first visit, iliat " on waking nt nieht it was commendable to raise the heart to God." It has since been explained to them how Uiey arc to under- stand the advice. This night, between the 2r)ih and 20lh, the prayers and canticles have not ceased. Yesterday, a young woman having died who had received baptism four days previously, we recomaiended them to pray for the re- pose of her soul. Her reujains were deposited at the foot of the Calvary, erected in ihs midst of the camp. On the cross upon her grave might confidently be inscribed the words : la spem Resurrect ionis — In hope of a glorious Re- surrection. We shall shortly have to celebrate the com- ri • 'I ; i^i P^i I'll ■■ «ir ^4 :!■ ^i S ■ . > ti 112 Sundat/ dtvotiom. momoralion of llio fiiiliful ticparteil ; this will afl'ord u« an opportiiiiiiy ol' csfiblishiiig llio very christian and stanrlinj? cuHlom ol prayiufT for the dt^ad in their pl:ice of interment. On Sundays, the exercises of devotion arc lonjfer and more numerous, and yet thoy are never fatigued with the pious duty. 'J'hey feel that the happiness of the little and of tlie humhio is to speak with their Heavenly Father, and that no liouse presents ^o many attractions as the house of the IiOtd. Indeed, so reliijiously is the Sunday observed here, that on this day of rest, even before our coming, the most timorous deer might wander unmolested in the midst of the tribe, even though they were reduced by want of provisions to the most rigorous fast. For, in the eyes of this people, to use the bow nnd arrow on this day, would not have appeared less culpable than did the gathering of wood to the scrupulous lidelity of the people of God. — Since they iiave conceived a juster idea of the law of grace, they are less slaves to •' the letter that killeth ;" but still de- sirous to bo faithful to the very letter, they are studious to do their best, and when any doubt arises, they hasten to be enlightened thereon, soliciting in a spirit of faith and hu- mility that permission of whioli they may think themselves to stand in need. The principal chief is named " Big Face," on account of the somewhat elongated form of his visage; he might more nobly and more appropriately be named The Nestor of the Desert, for as well in years as in stature and sagacity he has all the essentials of greatness. From his earliest infancy, nay, even before he could know his parents, he had been the child of distress. Being left a helpless orphan, by the death of his mother, with no one to protect him, it was pro- posed to bury him with her in the same grave — a circum- stance that may serve to give some idea of the ignorance and brutality of his tribe. But the Almighty, who had till (le- xis to lo be (1 hii' 'elves lint of liiore fthe e has ncy, been Y the pro- ;um- anoe had Confidence in the (irmt S/tirit. 148 >iher trcl, 3ii the h uiner purposes in his rcgnrcl, moved the heart ot a young woman to compassionate his helpless condition, and ofTcr to become a mother to him. Iter humanity was abundant* ly recompensed by seeing her adopted son distinguished above all his fellows by intelligence, gentleness, and every good di.sposition. lie was grateful, docile, charitable, and naturally so disposed to picly, that, from a want of know- ing the true God, he more than once was led to place his trust in that which was but the work of his own hands. — Heing one day lost in a forest, and rcduC' to extremity, iie began lo embrace the trunk of a fallen tree, and lo coiijure it 10 have pity upon him. Nor is it above two inonihb since a serious loss befel him ; indeed one of llic moslseiious tha' could happen to an Indian — the loss of thitc calmuls at 'ifC same tin>e. He spent no time in retracing his sic; *, md lo interest heaven in his favor, he put up the followii'g p ;'yer : •' Oh Great Spirit, you who see all tliinffs and undo all things, grant, I entreat you, that I ni:iy find what I am look- ing for ; i>nd yet Itt thy will bo done." This prayer should have been addressed to God. Ho did not find ilu calmuts, but in their place he received what was of mure incompara- ble value — simplicity, piety, wisdom, patience, courage, and cool intrepidity in the hour of danger. Mure favored in one respect than Moses, this new guide cf another people lo God, after a longer sojournment in I'u wildnerness, was at length successful in introducing his children into ihe land of promise. He was the tirst of his tribe who received baptism, and took the name of Paul, and like his patron, the great Apostle, he has laooied assiduously to gain over his numerous children to the friendship and love of his Lord and Master. I remain. Rev. Father Provincial, Yours, &c. P. J. De Smet, S. J. ifi li"*' liJ llFil '•,1 i'iV 1 ■U' LETTER X M' St. Mary's, Rocky Mountains, 2Gih Oct. 1842. Rev. and Dear Fatlier Provincial f This last letter will contain the practical conclusions o what has been stated in the preceding. 1 am confident that these conclusions will be very agreeai)le and consoling to all persons who feel interested in the progress of our holy religion, and who vtry prudently refuse to form a decided opinion, unless they can found it on well attested facts. From what has hitherto been said, we may draw this conclusion, that the nation of the Flat Heads appear to be a chosen people — " the elect of God ;" that it would be easy to make this tribe a iT^odel for other tribes,- — the seed of two hundred thousand christians, who would be as fervent as were the converted Indians of Paraguay ; and that the conversion of the former would be effected with more facil- ity than thai of the latter. The Flat Heads have no coui- raunication with corrupt tribes ; they hold all sects in aver- sion ; ihey have a horror of idolatry ; they cherish much sympathy for the whites, but chiefly for the Black Gowns, (Catholic Priests) a name, which, in consequence of the prepossessions and favorable impressions, which they have received from the Iroquois, is synonymous with goodness, learning, and Catholicity. Their position is central. — Their territory sufficiently extensive to contain several missions ; the land is fertile, the country surrounded by Jlules of conduct. 145 high mountains. They are independent of all authority except that of God, and those who represent him. They have no tribute to pay but that of prayer ; they have al- ready acquired practical experience of the advantages of a civilized over a barbarous slate of life ; and in line, they are fully convinced and firmly persuaded that without the reli- gion that is announced to them, they can be happy neither in this world nor in the next. From all these considerations, we may again draw the conclusions, that ihe best end which we can propose to ourselves is that which our Fathers of Paraguay had in view when they commenced their missionary labors ; and that the means to attain this end should be the same, chiefly because these means have been approved by the most respectable authorities, crowned with perfect success, and admired even by the enemies of our religion. The principle being admitted, it only remains to form a correct idea of the method employed by our Fathers in Paraguay to improve the minds^ and hearts of their Neo- phytes, and to bring them to that degree of perfection of which they conceived them susceptible. After having se- riously reflected on what Muratori relates of the establish- ments in Paraguay, we have concluded that the f( ilowing points should be laid down, as rules to direct the conduct of our converts. 1. With regard to God. — Simple, firm, and lively faith with respect to all the truths of religion, and chiefly such as are to be believed as Theologians express it, ne- cessitate medii et necessitate proecepti. Profound respect for the only true religion ; perfect submission to the church of God, in all that regards faith and morality, discipline, &c. Tender and solid piety towards the Blessed Virgin 13 4 ill ! ;ii; ( ■ I !;!■■"* 1 ! lit 'Mi m m V'ilk -m .: ■'Vl ' i^, 'I Hii i! m iW r, I I 140 Rules, Sf'C, and ihe Saints. Desire of the conversion of others. Cou- rage and fortitude of the Martyrs. 2. l^f^ith regard to our neighbor. — Respect for those in authority, for parents, the aged, &:(;. Justice, charity, and generosity towards all. 3. l^Pith regard to one^s self. — Humility, modesty, meekness, discretion, temperance, irreproachable behavior, industry or love of labor, &c. We shall strenuously recommend the desire of the con- version of others, because Providence seems to have great designs with respect to our small tribe. In one of our in- structions given in a little chapel, constructed of boughs, not less than twenty-four nations were represented, inclu- ding ourselves. Next, the courage and fortitude of the Martyrs, because in the neighborhood of the Black Feet there is continual danger of losing either the life of the sou], or that of the body. Also, industry or the love of la- bor, because idleness is the predominant vice of Indians ; and even the Flat Htads, if they are not addicted to idle- ness, at least, manifest a striking inaptitude to manual la- bor, and it will be absolutely necessary to conquer this. — To ensure success, much time and patience will be re- quired. Finally and chiefly, profound respect for the true religion, to counteract the manoeuvres of various sectaries, who, desirous as it would seem, to wipe away the reproach formerly made by Muratoii, and in our days by the celebra- ted Dr. Wiseman, use all their efforts to make proselytes, and to appear disinterested, and even zealous in the propa- gation of their errors. 4. With regard to the means. — Flight from all contam- inating influence; not only from the corruption of the age, but from what the gospel calls the world. Caution against f ''.. Rules, S,'c. 147 Cou- all immedirUfc intercourse with the whites, even with the workmen, whom necessity compels us to employ, for though these arc not wicked, still they are far from pos- sessing the qualities necessary to serve as m'>dels to men who are humble enough to think they are more or less per- fect, in proportion as their conduct corresponds with that of the whites. We shall confine them to the knowledge of their own language, erect schools among them, and teach them reading, writing, arithmetic and singing. Should any exception be made to this general rule, it will be in favor of a small number, and only when their good disposi- tions will induce us to hope that we may employ them as auxiliaries in religion. A more extensive course of instruc- tion would undoubtedly prove prejudicial to these good In- dians, whose simplicity is such that they might eas^ily be imposed upon, if they were to come in contact with error, whilst it is the source of all truth and virtue when enlight* ened by the flambeau of faith. La Harpe himself, speak- ing of the Apostolic laborers of our society, says that the perfection of our ministry consists in illumining by faith the ignorance of the savage. To facilitate the attainment of the end in view, we have chosen the place of the 6rst missionary station, formed the plan of the village, made a division of the lands, determined the form of the various buildings, &;c. The buildings deemed most necessary and useful at present are, a church, schools, work houses, store houses, &;c. Next, we have made regulations respecting public worship, religious exer- cises, instructions, catechisms, confraternities, the adminis- tration of the Sacraments, singing, music, &,c. All this is to be executed in conformity with the plan formerly adopted in the Missions of Paraguay. Such are the resolutions which we have adopted, and III mi iJ. v^ ti-'t I Mi ! ' i \ • k .•i| ^l I 148 HuleSf ^c. which we submit to be approved, amended or modified, by those who have the greater glory of God at heart, and who, by their position and the graces of their state of life, are designed by the Most High to communicate to us the true spirit of our Society. Believe me to be, Rev. and dear Father Provincial, Your devoted son in Christ, P. J. De Smet, S. J, {? !.*! ■; I 'I 1 ified, by art, and B of life, ) us the LETTER XI. S. J, St. Mary's, December — , 1841. Reverend Father : I SHALL here give you the remarks and observations I have made, and the information I have gathered, during this last journey, concerning some customs and practices of the savages. In speaking of the animals, I inquired of seven Flat Heads, who were present, how many cows they had killed between them in their last hunt ? The number amounted to one hundred and eighty-nine — one alone had killed fifty- nine. One of the Flat Heads told me of three remarkable hits which had distinguished him in that chase. He pur- sued a cow, armed merely with a stone, and killed her by striking her while running, between the horns; he after- wards killed a second with his knife ; and finished his ex- ploits by spearing and strangling a large ox. The young warriors frequently exercise themselves in this manner, to show their agility, dexterity and strength. He who spoke looked like a Hercules. They then, (a lare favor, for they are not boasters,) kindly showed me the scars left by the balls and arrows of the Black Feet in their different encoun- ters. One of them bore the scars of four balls which had pierced his thigh; the only consequence of which was a little stiffness of the leg, scarcely perceptible. Another had his arm and breast pierced by a ball. A third, beside some wounds from a knife and spear, had an arrow, five inches 13* ■ 'I' \\', i 1-1' m •Pi- i;' >.'" ."A ■ *iil iii 150 Domestic habits. N >' i t'l deep, in his belly. A fourth had still two balls in his body. One among them, a cripple, had his leg broken by a bah sent by an enemy concealed in a hole; leaping on one leg he fell upon the Black Foot, and the hiding place of the foe became his grave. *' These Black Feet," I remarked, •• are terrible people." The Indian who last spoke replied in the sense of the words of Napoleon's grenadier, " Oui, mais ils meurent vite apres." I expressed a desire to know the medicines which they used in such cases; they, much surprised at my question, replied, laughing, •' we apply no- thing to our wounds, they close of themselves." This re- called to me the reply of Captain Bridger in the past year. He had had, within four years, two quivers-full of arrows in his body. Being asked if the wounds had been long suppurating, he answered in a comical manner, " among the mountains nothing corrupts." The Indians who live on Clarke river are of the middle size. The women are very filthy. Their faces, hands and feet are black and slifT with dirt. They rub them every morning with a composition of red and brown earth mixed up with fish oil. Their hair, always long and dishevelled, serves them for a towel to wipe their hands on. Their garment is generally tattered, and stiff and shining with dust and grease. They seem to be less subjected to slavish labor than the squaws thai live East of the Mountains, still they have to toil hard, and to do whatever is most dimcult. They are obliged to carry all the household furniture or to row the canoe when they move from one place to another ; at home, they fetch the wood and the water, clean the fish, prepare the meals, ga- ther the roots and fruits of the season, and when any lei- sure time is left, they spend it in making mats, baskets and hats of bull-rushes. What must appear rather singular is. I t ga- lei. sand ir 18, Conjurers. 151 that the men more frequently handle the needle than the squaws. Their chief occupations, however, are fisiiing and hunting. These Indians sufTer much from opthalmic affec- tions. Scarcely a cahin is to be found on Clarke river, in which there is not a blind or one eyed person, or some one laboring under some disease of the eye. This probably pro- ceeds from two causes — first, because they are frequently on the water and exposed from morning till night to the direct and reflected rays of the sun, and next, because liv- ing in low cabins made of bull-rushes, the large fire they make in the centre fills it with smoke, which must gradu- ally injure their eyes. Conjurers are found here as well as in some parts of Eu- rope. They are a kind of physicians. Whatever may be the complaint of the patient these gentlemen have him stretched out on his. back, and his friends and relatives are ordered to stand round him, each one armed with two slicks of unequal length. The doctor or conjurer neither feels the pulse nor looks at the tongue, but with a solemn coun- tenance commences to sing some mournful strain, whilst those present accompany him with their voices and beat time with the sticks. During the singing the doctor ope- rates on the patient, he kneels before him, and placing his closed fists on the stomach, leans on him with all his might. Excessive pain makes the patient roar, but his roarings are lost in the noise, for the doctor and the bystanders raise their voices higher in proportion as the sick man gives ut- terance to his suflerings. At the end of each stanza the doctor joins his hands, applies them to the patient's lips, and blows with all his strength. This operation is repeat- ed till at last the doctor takes from the patient's mouth, ei- ther a little white stone, or the claw of some bird or animal, which he exhibits to the bystanders, protesting that he has 1 I n 152 Etalapaase. removed llie cause of the disease, and that the patient will soon recover. But whether he recover or die, the quack is here as elsewhere rewarded for his exertions. Mundus vult decipi,\a the watchword of quacks, jugglers and moun- tebanks; and it seems that the Indian conjurers are not un- acquainted with it. I received this description of their me- thod of curing diseases from a clerk of the Hudson Bay Company. I shall subjoin another anecdote concerning the religious ideas entertained by the Tehenooks. All men, they say, were created by a divinity called Etalapasse, but they were created imperfect or unfinished. Their mouths were not oleft, their eyes were closed, and their hands and feet were immoveable; so that they were rather living lumps of flesh than men. Another divinity, whom they call EcanrMm, (resembling the Nanaboojoo of the Poto- wattamies,) less powerful, but more benevolent than the former, seeing the imperfect state of these men, took a sharp stone and with it opened their mouths and eyes. He also gave motion to their hands and feet. This merciful divini- ty did not rest satisfied with conferring these first favors on the human race. He taught them to make canoes and pad- dles, nets and all the implements now used by the Indians. He threw large rocks into the rivers to obstruct their courses, and confine the fish in order that the Indians might catch them in larger quantities. When I speak of the Indian character, I do not mean to include the Indians that live in the neighborhood of civi- lized man, and have intercourse with him. It is acknow- ledged in the United States, that the whiles who trade with those Indians, not only demoralize them by the sale of spi- rituous liquors, but communicate to them their own vices, of which some are shocking and revolting to nature. The Indian left to himself, is circumspect and discreet in his Trails of character. 153 words and actions. He seldom gives way to passion ; ex- cept against the hereditary enemies of his nation. When there is question of them, his words breathe hatred and vengeance. He seeks revenge, because he firmly believes that it is the only means by which he can retrieve his honor when he has been insulted or defeated ; because he thinks that only low and vulgar minds can forget an injury, and he fosters rancor decause he deems it a virtue. With re- spect to others, the Indian is cool and dispassionate, check- ing the least violent emotion of his heart. Thus should he know that one of his friends is in danger of being attacked by an enemy lying in wait for him, he will not openly tell him so, (for he would deem this an act of fear,) but will ask him where he intends to go that day, and alter having received an answer, will add with the same indifl'erence, that a wild beast lies hidden on the way. This figurative remark will render his friend as cautious as if he were ac- quainted with all the designs and movements of the enemy. Thus again, if an Indian has been hunting without success, he will go to the cabin of one of his friends, taking care not to show the least sign of disappointment or impatience, nor to speak of the hunger which hs suffers. He will sit down and smoke the calmut with as much indifference as if he had been successful in the chase. He acts in the same manner when he is among strangers. To give signs of disappoint- ment or impatience, is looked upon by the Indians as a mark of cowardice, and would earn for them the appella- tion of " old woman," which is the most injurious and de- grading epithet that can be applied to an Indian. If an Indian be told that his children have distinguished them- selves in battle, — that they have taken several scalps, and have carried off many enemies and horses, without giving the least sign of joy, he will answer: "They have done ■il:' I , I ; r »:: .1 ■mV m 154 huHan life i'l \ 1 i r. m^ 1 1 \:i ^ U \) well." If lie be informed that they have been killed or made prisoners, lie will utter no complaint, but will simply say : •' It is unfortunate." He will make no inquiries into the circumstances ; several days must elapse before he asks for further information. The Indian is endowed with extraordinary sagacity, and easily learns whatever demands attention. Experience and observation render him conversant with things that are unknown to the civilized man. Thus, he will traverse a plain or forest one or two hundred miles in extent, and will arrive at a particular place with as much precision as the mariner by the aid of the compass. Unless prevented by obstacles, he, without any material deviation, always travels in a straight line, regardless of path or road. In the same manner he will point out the exact place of the sun, when it is hidden by mists or clouds. Thus, too, he fol- lows with the greatest accuracy, the traces of men or ani- mals, though these should have passed over the leaves or the grass, and nothing be perceptible to the eye of the white man. He acquires this knowledge from a constant application of the intellectual faculties, and much time and experience are required to perfect this perceptive qual- ity. Generally speaking, he has an excellent memory. — He recollects all the articles that have been concluded upon in their councils and treaties, and the exact time when such councils were held or such treaties ratified. Some writers have supposed that the Indians are guided by instinct, and have even ventured to assert that their children would find their way through the forests as well as those further advanced in age. I have consulted some of the most intelligent Indians on this subject, and they have uniforndy told me that they acquire this practical knowledge by long and close attention to the growth of and character. 155 I. luided their well Isome I the y :tical Ih ot plants and trees and to the sun and stars. It is known that the north side of a tree is covered with a greater qiian- iity of moss than any other, and that the boughs and loliagc on the south side are more abundant and luxuriant. Sim- iiar observations tend to direct them, and I have more than once found their reflections useful to myself in the excur- sions I have made through the forests. Parents teach their children to remark such things, and these in their turn sometimes add new discoveries to those of their fathers. They measure distances by a day's journey. When an Indian travels alone, his day's journey will be about 50 or 60 English miles, but only 15 or 20 when he moves with the camp. They divide their journeys, as we do the hours, intu halves and quarters ; and when in their councils they decide on war or on distant excursions, they lay off these journeys with astonishing accuracy on a kind of map, which they trace on bark or skins. Though they have no knowledge of geography, nor of any science that relates to it, yet they form with sufBcient accuracy maps of the countries which they know ; nothing but the degrees of longitude and latitude are wanting in some to make them exact. I remember to have read in Fr. Charlevoix' journal that the Indians are remarkably superstitious with respect to dreams. This is still the case, though they interpret them in various ways. Some maintain that during sleep the ra- tional part of the soul travels about, whilst the sensitive continues to animate the body. Others say that the good Manitoo or familiar spirit gives salutary advice concerning the future, whilst others hold that in sleep the soul visits the objects about which she dreams. But all look upon dreams as sacred, and as the ordinary channels through which the Great Spirit and the Manitoos communicate is' ■:'i'i u ( 1';; V M if ?. hi M H 150 The If'ampum their designs to man. Imprefised with this tJcn, the Indian is at a loss to conceive why we disregard them. Ab they look upon dreams as re[)repcnlatiotis of the desires of sume unearthly genius, or of the commands of the Great Spirit, they deem tiiemselvcs hound to observe and obey them. Charlevoix tells us somewhere, and I have seen instances of a simihir kind, that an Indian who had dreamed that he had cut oil' his finger, actually cut it, and prepared himself for the act by a fast. Another ha/ing dreamed that he was a prisoner among a hostile nation, not knowing how to act, consulted the jugglers, and according to their decision, had himsell bound to a slake, and fire applied to several parts of his body. I doubt whether the quotation is correct, as 1 have not the work of Charlevoix to consult, but I know that I have described a superstitious belief which is generally held by the Indians of the present day. When the Pottowatomies or any of the northern nations make or renew a treaty of peace, they present a wampum, sash or collar. The wampum is made of a shell called baceinum, and shaped into small beads in the form of pearls. When they conclude an alliance, offensive or defensive, with other tribes, they send them a wampum, sash and tomahawk dipped in blood, inviting them to come and drink of the blood of their enemies. This figurative ex- pression often becomes a reality. Among the nations of the West the calumet is looked upon with equal reverence, whether in peace or war. They smoke the calumet to con- firm their treaties and alliances. This smoking is con- sidered a solemn engagement, and he who should violate it, would be deemed unworthy of confidence, infamous, and an^object of divine vengeance. In time of war, the calumet and all Its ornaments are red. Sometimes it is partly red, and partly of some other color. By the color and the man- ami Calumet. 157 ner of disposing ilic fcallirrs, a person acquainted with their practices, knows at first sight what are the designs or inten- tions of the nation that presents the cahunct. ^,^'i'hc snjoi\in i 'J LETTER XI L St. Marie. Dec. 30tl), 1841, Reverend Father; I the h; ill of HAVE given you tne Happy and consoling result ol my journey in November. 13efore tlie close of the year I have yet to make you acquainted willi wiiat has passed during my absence, and since my return, among the Flat Heads; all goes to prove what I have advanced in my pieceding letters. The Rev. Fathers Mengarini and Point were not idle during my absence. The following will give you some idea of the state of aflairs on my return, both in regard to material and spiritual matters, as well as the practices and usages established, which could not but tend to strengthen, more and more, our good neophytes. The plan mentioned in my letters, and unanimously ap- proved, and which we were urged to carry into execution, was, to commence with what appeared to be the most ur- gent. We enclosed the field destined to liecome God's portion of the setdement. We started the buildings in- tended to be hereafter dependencies of the farm, but serv- ing temporarily for a church and residence, on account of the approach of winter, and our wish to unite the whole colony. These works were indispensable, and were carri- ed on wiih such spirit that in the space of a month the new buildings could shelter from four to five hundred souls. The Flat Heads, assisting us with their whole heart and A hurricane. 161 strength, had, in a short time, cut from two to three thou- sand stakes ; and the three brothers, with no other tools than the axe, saw and auger, constructed a chapel with pe- diment, colonade and gallery, balustrade, choir, seats, &c. by St. Martin's day; when they assembled in the little chapel all the catechumens, and continued the instructions which were to end on the third of December, the day fixed for their baptism. In the inteival between these two re- markable epochs, there was, on each day, one instruction more than usual. This last instruction, intended chiefly for grown persons, was given at 8 o'clock in the evening, and lasted about an hour and a quarter. These good sa- vages, whose ears and hearts are alike open when the word of God is addressed to them, appeared still bel'.er disposed in the evening; the silence being unbroken by the cri,:s of infants or children. Our heavenly Father so graciously heard their prayers, that on St. Francis Xavier's day the good Fathers had the consolation of baptising two hundred and two adults. So many souls wrested from the demons was more than enough to excite their rage, — seeds of distrust, hindrances occasioned by the best intentioned, the fickness of the in- ter:ireter and sexton, at the very momeru lueir assistance was most required ; a kind of huTicant , v. hiu'n 'ook place the evening before the baptism, au i whioh ove Urrhed three lodges in the camp, the trees toir from their :iot8, and every thing in appearance about to be uprooted, even to the foundations of the church — tlie organ unintentionally broken by the savages, on the eve o' being applied to so beautiful a purpose — all seemed to conspire against them ; but the day for baptism arrives, and every cloud disap- pears. The Fathers had intended to solemnize the marriiges of 14* 11 f 1% ii n>fi h riJ 162 Marriage riles ihe husbands and wives on the same day as their haplism. They liad even announced that the ceremony would lake place after baptism; but the sacred rite having occupied a much longer time than they supposed, on account of the necessity of interpreting all that was said, they were obli- ged to defer this sacrament until the next day, trusting lo God and the new Christians, for the preservation of their baptismal innocence. As our former Missionaries have left nothing in writing on the conduct we should observe with regard to mar- riage, it may, perhaps, be useful to relate here what has been our course, in order that our conduct may be rectified if it has not been judicious. We hold the ■ cinciple, that, generally speaking, there are no valid marriages amonff the savages of these countries: and fur this reason; we have not found ono, even among the best disposed, who, after marri;ige had been contracted in iheirown fashion, did not believe himself justified in send- ing away his first wife, whenever he thought tit, and tak- ing another. Many even have several wives in the same lodge. It is, however, true, that many when entering the HK'-riage slate, promise that nothing but death will ever separate them ; that they will never give their liand to ano- ther. But what impassioned man or woman has not said as much? Can we infer froni this that the contract is valid, when it is universally received, that even after such promises they have not the less right to do as they please, when they become disgusted with each other ? We are then agreed on this principle, that among them, even to the present time, there has been no marriage, because they have never known well in what its essence and obligation con- sisted. To adopt an opposite view would be to involve oneself in a labyrinth of difiiculties, from which it would be and ceremonies. 103 ever ano- t said ract is such lease, e are to the have con- volve lid be I very difficult (a> escape. Thit was, if I am not mistaken, the conduct ot Si. Francis Xavier in the Indies, since it is said in his Life, that he praised hefare the married those whom he supposed to be dearest to tliem, that they might be more easily iuduced to ketjp to one alone. Secondly, supposing then that there were material faults in their mar- riages, the necersity of a renewal was not spoken of but for the time which followed baptism, and this took place *.lie day following that happy occasion. After the Fathers had gained the necessary information respeciaig the degrees oi relationship, and had given the necessary dispensations, ihe marriage ceremony, preceded by a short instruction, was performed, anil coiiiribuled greatly to give the people a high idea oi our holy religion. The twenty-four marriages then contracted presented that mixture of simplicity, of respectful aflection, and pro- found joy, which are the sure indications of a good con- science. Tliete were among the couples, good old men and women; but \heir presence only rendered the ceremo- ny more respectable in the eyes ol those assembled ; for among the Flat Heads all that relates to religion is sacred ; unhappy he who would so express himself before them, as to lead tliem to believe that iie thouglit otherwise. They left the chapel, their hearts filled with sentiments purified by that grace which constitutes the charm of every state of life, and especially of those in wedlock. The only thing that appeared strange to them was, when the Fathers spoke of taking the names of witnesses ; but when they were told that this was only done because the church so ordained, to give more authority and dignity to the marriage contract, they no longer saw in it any thing but what was reasonable, and the question was, who should be wiiness for the others ? Hi, PI \ ' 164 M vm '1^- ' It || 1 M fi i| .„ ? 1 Il )• If » 1 • :. . 1! fi ^1 ! : » • ■t: i; m 1 Baptism. The same astonishment was manifested with regard to god-fathers. The interpreter had translated the word god- father, a term which is not in their language, by second fa- ther. The poor savages not knowing what this meant, or what consequences this title would imply, were not eager to make a choice. To be a god-father moreover offered no great attraction. As soon as we made them understand it, their difHculties vanished, and the more easily ; for not to muUiply spiritual affinities, a god-father only was given to the men, and a god-mother to the women ; and as to the obligations attached to the honour of being sponsors, they were much less here than elsewhere, the Black Gowns pro- mising to take upon themselves the .greatest pa*-! of the bur- den. For the first baptisms our choice of sponsors was very limited ; only thirteen grown persons were qualified to act in this capacity, — but the most aged persons being baptised before the otherti, they, without laying aside the lighted candle, (the symbol of faith) were chosen for the second division; and so in like manner with the rest. The day preceding the baptism, the Fathers, on account of their labors, were only able to collect the colony twice ; besides, F. Mengarini was indisposed. In the evening, however, he assembled the people, and great was their as- tonishment on beholding the decorations of the chapel. Some jays previously the Fathers had engaged all who were willing, to make matts of rushes oi straws. All the Wi/men, girls and children, assembled eagerly for this good work, so that they had enough to cover the floor and ceil- ing, and hang lou id the wall?. These matts, ornamented wiih festoons of green, made a pretty dxapery around the altar. On a canopy was inscribed the holy name of Jesus. Among the ornaments they placed a picture of the Blessed Virgin over the tabernacle ; on the door of the iabernacle a hi b oj d el Method of instruction. !G5 representation of tlie heart of Jesus. The piclnres of the way of the Cross, in red frames ; the lights, the silence of night, the approach of ihe important day, the calm after the hurricane, which had burst on them only a few moments before — all these circumstances united, had, with the grace of God, so well disposed the minds and hearts of our In- dians, that it would have been scarcely possible lo lind on earth an assembly of savages more resembling a com- pany of saints. This was the beautiful bouquet which the Fathers were permitted to present to Saint Francis Xa- vier. The next day they were enn^nged from eight o'clock in the morning until half past ten at night, in the church, excepting only one hour and a half, which iliey gave to re- pose. The following was ilie order followed. First, they baptized the chiefs and married men. These were chosen as godfathers for the vounir men and little boys; then the married women, whose husbands were living with them ; afterwards the widows and wives who had been cast off; and, lasdy, the young women and girls. It was graiifying to hear with wh-st intelligence these good savages replied to all the questions addressed to them, and to see them praying at the moment of receiving bap- tism. At the end, each received a taper whose blended light beautifully illuminated our humble chapel. IJut let us come to something still more edifying. I shall not speak of their assiduous attendance at the instruc- tions, — of their eagerness to hear our words, — of the evi- dent profit they received from them ; all this is common in the course of a mission; but rarely do we witness ihe he- roic sacritices which these Indians have made. Many, who liad two wives, have retained her whose children were most numerous, at:d with all possible respect dis- missed the otlier. One evening, a savage came to seek the [. ^1 166 Distribution of n Fathers st the lodge, which was filled with Indians, and unabashed by any merely human consideration, asked what lie should do in his present circumstances! On the instant he acted according to the instructions given him ; he dismissed his youngest wife, giving her what he would have wished another to give to his sister, if in the same situation, and was re-united to his first wife, whom he had forsaken. After an instruction, a young woman, asking to speak, said that '« she desired very much to receive bap- tism, but that she had been so wicked she dared not make the request." Each one would have made a public con- fession. A great number of young mothers, married ac- cording to the mode of the savages, but abandoned by their husbands, who were of some other tribe, renounced them most willingly, to have the happiness of being baptised. The ordinary regulations observed in the village are as follows : when the Angelus rings, the Indians rise from sleep ; half an hour after, the morning prayers are said in common ; all assist at Mass and at the instruction. A second instruction is given at evening, towards sun set, and lasts about an hour and a quarter. At two o'clock in the afternoon we have the regular catechism for the chil- dren, at which grown persons may assist if they think proper. The children are formed into two divisions : the first is composed exclusively of those who know the first prayers ; the second of the smaller children. One of the Fathers each morning visits the sick, to furnish them with medicines, and give them such assistance as their wants may require. We have adopted the system of instruction and bestowing rewards, in usage in the schools of the brothers of the chris- tian doctrine. During catechism, which lasts about an hour, we have recitations and explanations, intermingled Jiewards of merit. 167 «».. with canticles. Every day, for each good answer, tickets of approbation are given ; one or more, according to tiie dilllcully of the question proposed. Experience lias proved that these licUets given at once, are less embarrassing than when we mark tiieir names on a list; the former plan takes less time, and interests the children more, rendering them, besides, more assiduous and careful. These tickets serve, at the same time, as certilicatcs of attendance at cate- chism, and as tokens of intelligence and good will, they please the parent not less than their children. The former are incited to make their children repeat what has been said at catechism, to render them capable of answering better the following day ; and also with a desire of improving them- selves. The wish to see their children distinguish them- selves, has attracted almost the whole colony to catechism ; none of the chiefs who have children fail to be there ; and there is not less emulation among the parents than among the children themselves. A still greater value is attached to the tickets, from the exactitude and justice with which the deserving are rewarded. They who have obtained good tickets during the week, are rewarded on Sunday with crosses, medals, or ribbons, publicly distributed. On the first Sunday of every month they distribute to those who have received the most good tickets in the course of the month, medals or pictures, which become their private pro- perty. These pictures, preserved with care, are great stimulants, not only to the study of their catechism but also to the practice of piety. They are monuments of victory, examples of virtue, exhortations to piety, and models of perfection. Their rarity, and the efforts necessary to ob- tain them, also enhance their worth. As we desire to in- spire the savages, who are naturally inclined to idleness, with a love for work, it has been judged suitable to reward t * . [ft IG8 Chrisbiias. t^ llieir litilc ciTorts in tlio same manner as \vc recompense their improvement in, and knowledge of their catechism. To maintain order, and promote emulation among them, the calcchisnj children are divided into seven or ci^lil sec- lions, of six each ; the boys on one side, i' o girls on the other. At the liead of each section there is a chief, who must assist the children placed under him to learn ihcir catechism ; that thus every child may indulge the hope of meriting a reward at the end of the week or month. Tliey are so divided that the conipctitois, to the number of live or six in each section, may be of nearly equal capacity. Father Point, who was, immediately after Christmas, to accompany the assembled camps of Flat Heads, Penda- d'oreilles, Nez-perccs, who take 7 religion, oiild have lat Heads, ly coming he instru- (led knees ncs ralher 8ih Oclo- ('uhiinbia so scanty, ling them, lishermen not being ts, we in- ig expedi- pn iiouse, in. We ith God's day, in contain :ed Nose jorhood. ding sin, t of the that on humens his was lostle of lemy. — ed mul- the pre- I feet, interpreter and sexton fell sirk. Tho very eve of the great day the environs were laid waste by a sort of hurri- cane — the chnrch windows wore broken, lartre trees were rooted up, and three huts were thrown down ; but these obstacles, far from prejudicing the triumph of relisfion, served only to render it still more striking. Tlic calcc^humens having assembled in tho chapel, which had been adorned with its most beaiitiful ornuments, and where they had I)cen conducted lor the more inunediate preparations of their hearts prior to receiving tlie groat sacrament of baptism, were so struck by the imposing ap- pearance of the chapel, and the meloilious sounds of the organ, now heard for the first time in the wilderness, ihat they were not able to express their admiration. The next day, with the exception of the lime the Fathers took for their dinner, they were in church from eight o'clock in the morning until half past ten in the evening. How delight- ful it was to listen to the intelligent answers ol the good savages to all the questions proposed to them. Never will those who were present forget llip pious spirit of their re- plies. The rehabilitations of their mnrriages succeeded baptism, but not without great sacrifices on their part, be- cause, until that time, the poor Indians had been ignorant of the unity and indissolubility of the conjugal lie. We could not help admiring the mighty eflects of the sacrament of baptism in their souls. One poor husband hesitated as to which of his wives he should select. The oldest of them, perceiving his irresolution, said to him : •' You know how much I love you, and I am also certain that you love me, but you cherish another more; she is younger than I am. Well, remain with her ; leave me our children, and in that manner we can all be baptized." I could cite many such traits. H ii '■la i\ 1 H I If';' ' I m 180 Narrative of I will here begin the narrative of my journey to Colville. On the eve of my deparluie I informed l!ie Flat Heads of my intentions. I requested them to procure some hoises, and a small escort, in case I should meet with any of their enemies, the I31ack Feet. They brought to me seventeen horses, the number 1 had asked them ; and ten young and brave warriors, who lad already been often pierced with balls and arrows in diflerent skirmishes, presented them- selves to accompnny me on my journey. With pleasure I bear testimony to their devotedne&s, their child-like simpli- city and docility, politeness, complaisance and rare hilarity ; but, above all, to their exemplary piety. These good Flat Heads endeavored in every manner to divine and anticipate all my wants. On the afternoon of the 28lh October, as I have already said, we commenced our march, and encamped at a distance of ten miles from St. Mary's. That day we met no one but a solitary hun- ter, who was carrying a buck, the half of which he oflTered to us, with great eagerness. This furnished us with an excellent supper, and a good breakfast for the next morn- ing. The 29ih, snow fell in large flakes, notwithstanding which we continued our march. We crossed, in the course of the day, a fine stream, without a name — the same one which the famous travellers, Lewis and Claike, as- cended in 1806, on their way to the section of country oc- cupied by the tribe of the Pierced Noses, (or Sapetans.) I will call ii, the river of St. Francis Borgia. Six miles further south we crossed the beautiful river of St. Ignatius. It enters the plain of the Bitter Root, — which we shall hence- forward call St. Mary's, — by a beautiful defile, commonly called, by the mountaineers or Canadian hunters, the Devil's Gate; for what reason, however, I know not. These gentlemen have frequently on their lips the words I . .! s^. a Fear^s Residence. 181 Colville. Heads of ne horses, ly of their sevenleen ^oung and 3rced with ited ihem- pleasure I ke simpli- e hilarity ; manner to afternoon )mmenced iiiles from itary hun- he ofTered \vith an xt morn- |hslanding in the the same aike, as- ntry oc- ans.) I s further tius. It 111 hence- mmonly rs, the w not. words devil and hell ; and it is perhaps on this account that we heard so often these appellations. Be not then alarmed when 1 tell you that 1 examined the Devil's pass, went through the Devil's gate, rowed on Satan's stream, and jumped from the Devil's horns. The •' rake," one of the passes, the horns, and the stream, really deserve names that express something horrible — all three are exceedingly dangerous. The first and second, on account of the innu- merable snags which fill their beds, as there are entire forests swallowed up by the river. 'J'he third pass of which 1 spoke, adds to the diiriculties of the others a cur- rent still stronger. A canoe launched into this torrent flies over it with the speed of an arrow, and the most experi- enced pilot trembles in spite of himself. Twice did the brave Iroquois, who conducted our light canoe, exclaim : ••Father, we are lost/' but a loud cry of "courage — take courage, John, confide in God, keep steady to the oar," saved us in that dangerous stream, drew us out from be- tween the horns and threatening teeth of this awful " rake." But let us return to our account of the journey to Colville. We spread our skins on the borders of a little river at the foot of a high mouiitain, which we were to cross the next day, having traversed St. .Mary's valley, a distance of about forty miles. This valley is from four to seven miles wide, and above two hundred long. It has but one fine dtfile, already mentioned, and which serves as the entrance to, and issue from, the valley. The mountains which terminate it on both sides appear to be inaccessible ; they are piles of jagged rocks, the base of which presents nothing but frag- ments of the same description, while the Norwegian pine grows on those that are covered with earth, giving them a very sombre appearance, particularly in the autumn, in which season the snow begins to fall. They abound in 16 •5 .1 u 'J ) ^|!- : : I li I ■r 1 i , t I ,1 ' 182 Narrative of bucks, bufTalos, and sheep, whusc wool is as white as snow, and as fine as silk ; aUo in all kinds of bears, wolves, panthers, carcasiux, tiger cats, wild cats, and whisllers, a species of mountain rat. 'i'he moose is i'ound here, but is very seldom caught, on account ol its exiraordinary vigi- lance, for, on the slightest rustling of a branch it leaves ofl eating, and will not return to its food for a long time after- wards. The soil of the valley is, with some few ex- ception:^, very light; it contains, however, some good pastures. 'I'he whole course of the river is well lined with trees; especially with the pine, the fir, cotton, and willow trees. Anjongst the most remarkable hires we distinguished the Nun's eagle, (so called by travellers on account of the color of its head, which is while, whilst the other parts of the body are black,) the black eagle, buzzard, waterfowl, heron, crane, pheasant and quail. On the 30lh we ascend- ed a gap in the mountrin. 'i'he two sides weie very lofty, and studded with laige pines, all the branches of which were covered villi a black and very fine moss, that hung in festoons, or in the fchaj)e of mourning garlands, and added to the already funereal appearance of this pass. We here filed ofl' by a little path, scarce worthy however of the name, for a distance of six miles. The road was filled with large blocks of stone and trunks of trees, placed as if it were on purpose to render the pass difliculi and imprac- ticable. 'I'he summit once attained, we |)roceeded to cross a smiling little plain, called the Camash Prairies, where the Flat Meads come every spring to dig up that nourish- ing root, which, together with the gama they are able to procure, forms their chief nourishment. We very soon descended the mountain in a zigzag direction, and reached a beautiful plain, which is watered by two rivers, the St. a Fear's Residence, 183 '!■ t while as , wolves, isllers, a re, but is ary vigi- eaves ofi me afier- low ex- nie good ell lined Uon, and ibhcd the nt of the r j)arls of aierfowl, e ascend- ry lofty, ;)f which hung in ui added We here r of the as filled ced as if iniprao lo cross , where lourish- able to V soon « reached the St. Aloysius and St. Stanislaus. 'I'hey unite in this plain, whence they go to join the forks at Clark's, otherwise called the Flat Head river. This valley extends about ten miles. I perceived in this place one of those formidable Black Foot Indians in the act of hidlnj^ himself. I did not speak of it to my young companions, fearing that I might not bs able to prevent a bloody struggle between them. I however took the precaution of having a good watch kept over our horses. The next day was Sunday, a day of rest. 1 celebrated the Holy Sacrifice of the .Mass, and baptized three little children of the Pointed Hearts' tribe, whose pa- rents had joined us on the road. The rest of the day was spent in prayer and instructions. The chief of our band twice addressed his companions, and spoke with much force and precision on the dillerent portions of our religion, which he already had heard explained. The 1st of No- vember — Ail Saints' Day — after having celebrated the Holy Sacrilice under a large poplar tree, we proceeded on our journey through a defile of about six miles. At the lord of the Great Clark's Fork, we met two encampments of the Kalispel tribe, who, having heard of our approach, had come thither to see us. Men, women and children, ran to meet us, ami pressed our hands with every demon- stration of sincere joy. The chief of the first camp was called Chalax. I baptized twenty-four children in his little village, and one young woman, a Koelenaise, who was dying. The chief of the second camp was named Hoy- lelps; his band occupied thirty hats. I spent the night amongst them ; and, although they had never seen me be- fore, they knew all the prayers that I had taught the Flat Heads on my first journey. The fact is, on hearing of my arrival in the mountains, they deputed an intelligent young man to meet me, and who was also gifted with a good . ' f 'I'M 1- •1 ■f }: 1 i*i 1^; m u Mi ^<',i, !l IP 1*1 i i ;|1 IftjifK 184 Narrative of a memory. Having learned the prayers and canticles, and such points as were most essential for salvation, he re- peated to the village all that he had heard and seen. He had acquitted himself of his commission so well, and with so much zeal, that he gave instructions to his people during the course of the winter. The same desire for information concerning religion, had communicated itself to the other smnll camps, and with the same cheer- ing success. It was, as you can easily imagine, a great consolation for me to hear prayers addressed to the great God, and his praises sung in a tors had abandoned. On the 3d of November, after prayers and instructions to the savages, we continued our march. We were on the borders of the (Jlarkc Folks, to which we were obliircd to keep close during eiglit days, whilst we descended the country bordering the stream. 'I'he river is at this place of a greenish blue, very transprirent, caused probably by the ileposit of a great quantity of oxigen of iron. Our path during a great part of the day was on the declivity of a lofty, rocky mountain ; we were here obliged to climb a steep rough pass from 400 to GOO feet high. I had before seen landscapes of awful grandeur, but this one certainly surpassed all others in horror. My cour I jl i '-in V'' Mi m . ii iJ i ■ •ii i: »!■ ^ a Year's Residence. 193 ed to me with his own innocent lips : "Upon entering John's hilt, whither I had gone to learn my prayers, wliicli I did not know, I saw some one who was very boautiful — her feet (hd not touch the earth, her garments weie as white as snow; she had a star over her head, a serpent under her feet; and near the serpent was a Triiit which I did not re- cognise. I couhl see her heart, from which rays of ligljt burst fortli and slione upon me. When I first helichl all this I was frightened, l)tit afterwards my fear left me; my heart was warmed, my mind clear, and I do not know how it happened, but all at once 1 knew my prayers," (To be brief I omit several circumstances.) He ended his account by saying that several times the same person had appeared to him whilst he was sleeping; and that once she had told him she was pleased, that the first village of the Flat Heads should be called " St. Mary." The child had never seen or heard before any thing of the kind ; he did not even know if the person was a man or woman, because the ap- pearance of the dress which she wore was entirely unknown to him. Several persons having interrogated ihe child on this subject, have found him unvarying in his answers. He continues by his conduct to be the angel of liis tribe. On the 23d of December, Father Point, at the head of the inhabitants of forty lodges, started for the buffalo hunt. — On the road they met with huntsmen ef five or six diirerent tribes, some of whom followed him to the lermination of the chase, from the desire of learning their prayers. The Flat Heads having prolonged their stay at St. iNIary's as long as they possibly could, so as not to depart without re- iced such a famine, the first weeks ig bapt :pei of January, that their poor dogs, having not even a bone to gnaw, devoured the very straps of leather with which they tied their horses during the night. The cold moreover was 17 \ J 194 Narrative of so uninterruptedly severe that during the hunting season, which lasted three months, such a quantity of snow fell that many were attacked with a painful blindness, vulgarly call- ed ♦' snow disease." One day when the wind was very high, and the snow falling and freezing harder than usual, Father Point became suddenly very pale, and would no doubt have been frozen to death, in the midst of the plain, had not some travellers, perceiving the change in his coun- tenance, kindled a large Hre. But neither the wind, ice, or famine, prevented the zealous Flat Heads from performing on this journey all they were accustomed to do at St. Ma- ry's. Every morning and evening they assembled around the Missionary's lodge, and more than three-fourths of them without any shelter than the sky, after having recited their prayers, listened to an instruction, preceded and followed by hymns. At day-break and sunset the bell was tolled three times for the Angelical Salutation. The Sunday was religiously kept ; an observance which was so acceptable to God, that once especially it was recompensed in a very visible manner. The following is what I read in the Jour- nal kept by Father Point during the winter's hunt. Sixth February. — To-day, Sunday, a very high wind, the sky greyish, and the thermometer at the freezing point; no grass for the horses ; the buffalos driven off by the Pierced Noses. The 7lh, the cold more piercing — food for our horses still scarcer — the snow increasing; but yes- terday was a time of perfect rest, and the fruits of it show themselves to-day in perfect resignation and confidence. At noon we reach the summit of a mountain, and what a change awaits us. The sun shines, the cold has lost its intensity ; we have in view an immense plain, and in that plain good pasturages, which are clouded with buffalos. The encampment slops, the hunters assemble, and before ti « Year's Residence. 195 y season, .V fell that arly call- was very an usual, >vould no ihe plain, his coun- (1, ice, or irforming i St. Ma- ll around s of them iled their followed /as tolled nday was ;ceptable in a very he Jour- jh wind, g point; by the g — food but yes- it show fidence. what a lost its in that uflalos. before sunset 155 bufTalos have fallen by their arrows. One must confess that if this hunt were 7iot miraculous, it bears a great resemblance to the drauglit of fishes made by Peter when casting his net at thn word of the Lord, he drew up 153 fishes. — St. John, xxi. 11. The Flat Heads confided in the Lord, and were equally successful in killing 153 bufTalos. What a fine draught of fishes! but what a glori- ous hunt of bufialos ! Represent to yourself an immense amphitheatre of mountains, the least of which exceeds in height Mont Martre, and in the midst of this majestic enclo- sure a plain more extensive than that of Paris, and on this magnificent plain a multitude of animals, the least of which surpasses in size the largest ox in Europe. Such was the park in which our Indians hunted. Wishing to pursue them, continues Father Point, in his journal, 1 urged on my horse to a herd of fugitives, and as he was fresh, I had no difljculty in getting up to them. I even succeeded in compelling the foremost to abandon his post, but en- raged, he stopped short, and presented such a terrible front, that 1 thought it more prudent to open a passage and let him escape. I acted wisely, as on the same day, one of these animals, in his fall, overturned a horse and his rider. Fortunately, however, the latter was more dexterous than I should have been in such a perilous situation ; he aimed his blows so promptly and well, that of the three who were thrown, only two arose. On another occasion, a hunter who had been also dismounted, had no other means to avoid being torn to pieces than to seize hold of the animal by the horns just at the time he was about to trample him to death. A third hunter, fieeingatall speed, felt himself stopped by the plaited tail of his horse hooked on the bufTa- lo's horn ; but both fearing a trap, made every eflTort to dis- eogage themselves. The buffalo hunt is attended with .'1 ; M' ! 196 Narrative of 1 : i y I dangers, but the greatest of these does not consist in the mere pursuit of the animal, but proceeds raiher from the bands of Black Feet who coiisiautly lurk in these regions, especially wiien there is some prospect of meeting with the larger game, or stealing a number of horses. Of all the mountain savages the lilack Feet are the most numerous, wicked, and the greatest thieves. Happily, however, from having been olien beaten by the smaller tribes, they have become so dastardly, that unless iliey are twenty to one, they confine their attacks to the horses, which, thanks to the carelessness of their courageous enemies, they go about with so much dexterity and success, that tins year, while our good Flat Heads were asleep, they discovered their animals as olten ;is twenty times, and carried ofl'more than one hundred of then). During tlie winter, about twenty of tiiese gentlemen visited the Flat lit ads in the day time, and without stealing any thing, but in this man- ner. Theie resided in the camp an old chief of the Black Feet tribe, who had been baptised on Christmas day, and named Nicholas ; this good savage, knowing that the Mis- sionary would willingly hold an inlerview with his breth- ren, undertook hi(nseif to harangue them during the night, and so well did he acquit himself, that upon the calumet's being planted on the limits of the camp, and the messenger being admitted to an audience, singing was heard in the neighboring mountains, and soon after a band of these bri- gands issued, armed as warriors, from the gloomy defile. They were received as friends, and four of the principals were ushered into the [Missionary's lodge ; they smoked the calumet and discussed the news of the day. The Mission- ary spoke of the necessity of prayer, to which subject they listened most attentively ; nor did they manifest either sur- prise or repugnance. They told him that there had arrived St in the from the regions, iiig with 31" all the jmerous, lovvever, es, they veniy to I, thanks they go lis year, scovered oflmore r, about Is in the lis nian- e Black lay, and le Mis- breth- night, umei's ssenger in the e bri- defile. OS nopals ;ed the ission- 3t they er sur- rrived a Yearns Residence. 197 recently in one of their forest? a man who was not married, and who wore on his breast a large crncifix, read every day in a big book, and made the sign of the cross before eating any thing; and in fine, that ho was dressed exactly like tlic Black-gowns at St. Mary's. The Father did every thing in his power to gain their good will — after which, they were conducted to the best lodge in the encampment. It cer- taiidy would seem that such hosts were worthy of better guests. However, towards the middle of the night, the ex- plosion of fire arms was heard. It was soon discovered that a Flat Head was firing at a Black VooX, just as the lat- ter was leaving the camp, taking with him four horses. — Fortunately, the robber was not one of the band that had been received within the encampment, which, upon being proved, far from creating any suspicion, on the contrary, had the effect of their kindly offering them a grave for the unfor- tunate man. But whether they wished to appear to disap- prove of the deed, or that they anticipated dangers from re- prisals, they left the wolves to bury the body, and took tlieir departure. Good Nicholas, the orator, joined them, in order to render the same services to the others that he had to these. He went off, promising to return soon wiih the evidences of his success. He has not been seen as yet, but we are informed, he and his companions have spoken so favorably of prayer, and the Black-gowns, that already the Sunday is religiously observed in the camp where Nicholas resides, and that a great chief, with the people of sixty lodges, intend shortly to make our acquain- tance, and attach themselves to the Flat Heads. In the meanwhile, divine justice is punishing rigorously a num- ber of their robbers. This year, the Pierced Noses caught twelve of them in flagrant faults, and killed them. About the time that the Black Foot above mentioned met his fate at 17* h^ \ ,« ijiii' if [if. i\ ■ 1 1 I M 198 Narrative of ihe hands of a Flat Head, thirty others were receiving the reward due to their crimes, from the Pends-d'oreilles tribe. A very remarkable fact in this last encounter is, that of the four who commenced, and the others who fin- ished it, not one fell ; although, in order to break in on the delin(iuenls, who were retrenched behind a kind of ram- part, they were oblij^ed to expose themselves to a brisk fire. I saw the lield of combat some tinte alierwaids. Of the thirty rol)bers who had been slain, only five or six heads remained, and those so disfij to lead to jaos remaineo, anu tnose so uisngureu as lo lean one think that an age had already elapsed since their dealii. Two years before, the same tribe, (I'ends-d'oreilles) assisted by the Flat Heads, making isi all a baiui of seventy men, stood an attack ol (ifieen hundred IJIack Feel, whom they deleated, killing in five daNs, during whicli time the battle bisied, fifty of their iocs, without losing a single man on their side. They would not commence liie attack until ibey had recited their prayers on their knees. A few days ago, the spot was pointed out to me where six Flat Heads uitliJ-lood IGO IJIack Feet with so much res(jluiion, that with a hanill'iil t)f their men who came to their aid, they gained i'>e victory. The niosl peitiiiious nation, after the Black Ft et, is the Banac tribe; they also bear the Flat Heads iiiucii ill will. It has hap[)ened more than once that at the very moment the Baisac tiibe were receiving the greatest proofs of friendship from the Fl; their encamp- ment. Tlie small number of the Flat Heads had not, how- ever, escaped their notice, and they determined to i^ke ad- vantage of their apparent weakness. Accordingly, they a Year's Residence. 199 receiving •d'oreilles lounler is, 3 who fin- in on ihc d of ram- a brisk aids. Of ive or six ad one to deatli. I'oreilles) )f seventy »'i, whom 1 lime the ', a single he aliack A lew six Flat 'Solution, aid, they alter the the Flat )nce thai vlwjT the the already ai-hnient Heads, encamp- )t, how- tnke ad- y, they u relraced their steps that very nij^hl to execute their base designs. IJut the chief, named iMidiael, having been advised of their intention, assembled in haste his twenty warriors, and after entreating them to conlide in Clod, he rushed on these traitors so happily and vigorously, that at the first shock they were routed. Already nine of the fu- gitives had fallen, ami niorji of the others would have shared the same fate if Michael, in the very heat of the pursuit, iiad not recollected that it was Sunday, and on that account stojiped his brave companions, sayiiiL' : " -My friends, ii is now the time for prayer ; we must retire to our camp." It is by these and similar exploits, whciein the finger of God is visible, that the Fiat Heads have acquired such a [ei)uialion for valor, that notwithstanding,' their in- ferior numbers, they are feared much more t!ian they on their side dread their bitterest enemies. 'I'hese victories however cannot but be fatal even to the conquerors ; hence we will strive to inspire all with the love of peace, which may be ai;coin()lished if each party remains at home. For this purpose we must create auiong them a greater taste for agriculture than for hunting. But how can we comj)ass this unlesis the same measures are employed for the mis- sions of the Itocky Mountains that were so happily adopted for Paraguay. If the true friends of Religion only knew of what the Inilians who surround us are capable when once convertei-!, 1 can not doubt but that they would assist us in our eflforis to accomplish so beautiful, so advantageous a psoject. it is, moreover, tiirough the Iroquois of the North, whose cruelty formerly exreedfd that of the Black Feet, that the knowledge of the true Gud came to the Flat Heads, and awakened amonifst them the desire of j)Osses- sing the Bhuk-gowns. We have seen to what dangers the good Flat Heads exposed themselves to obtain Missiona- !'i vii P ■i t W', Hi '!f: ^ V 200 Narrative of ries, and what sacrifices they have made to merit the title of children of God ; and now what is tlieir actual progress ? In their village, enmities, quarrels and calumnies, are unknown ; they are sincere and upright amongst them- selves, and lull of confidence in their Missionaries. They carry this to such a degree that they place implicit reliance on their veracity, and cannot suppose that they have any thing else in view but their happiness; they have no diffi- culty in believing the mysteries of our faith, or in approach- ing the tribunal of |)enance: difficulties which appear insurmountable to the pride and cowardice of many civilized christians. The first lime they were asked if they believed firmly in all that was contained in the Apostles' creed, they answered, *' Yes — very much." When they were spo- ken to about confession, some wished it to be public. — This will explain to you how it happened that before we resided three months amongst them we were enabled to baptize all the adults, and four months later to admit a large number to frequent communion. There are whole fami- lies who never let a Sunday go by without approaching the holy table. Often twenty confessions are heard conse. cutively without their being matter for absolution. This year we performed the devotion of the month of Mary, and i can flatter myself that the exercises were attended with as much piety and edification as in the most devout parishes of Europe. At the end of the month a statue was borne in triumph to the very place where our Blessed Mother de- signed to honor us with the aforementioned apparition.— Since that day a sort of pilgrimage has been established there, under the name of " Our Lady of Prayer." None pass the pious monument without stopping to pray on their knees; the more devout come regularly twice a day to speak to their Mother and her divine Son, and the children a Yearns Residence. 201 t the title )rogres8 ? lies, are St them- . They t reliance have any no tlifH- pproach- i appear civilized believed ed, they ere spo- ublic. — (fore we abled to . a J arge le fami- oaching conse. This ry, and with as )arishes 3rne in her de- tion. — blished None ray on day to lildren add to their prayers the most beautiful (lowers they can cull in tiic prairies. On tlie Feast of the Sacred Heart we made use of this monument, decorated with garlands of flowers, as a reposi- tory, and oui people received for llie first time, llie bene- diction of the blet^sed sacrament ; a JKjppiness which ihey now enjoy every Sunday alter vespers. Some of ihem already umlerstand the nutuie of the devotion of t!ie Sacred Heart. To I'-ropafrale it we have laid the Ibundalions of several societies, of which all the most viruu)u.s men, wo- men and youn;j [)L'ople Iiave become ujembert!. Victor, the great chid, is prefect uf one of these associations, and Ag- nes his wife is president of anaiher. 'I'hcy wore nol elect- ed tlirough any defcreni'e for ihcir dii,niity or birlli, but solely on account of their great personal (uerjis. A fact which proves ihal the Flat Heads regard merii more than rank, is, that the place of great chief becoming vacant by the death of Peter, iliey chose for his successor the chief of the men's society, and for no other reason did he obtain this high dignity than for the noble qualities, boih of heart and head, which they all thoui^ht he possessed. Every night and morning, when all is quiet in the caujp, he ha- rangues the people; the subject of his discourse being prin- cipally a repetition of what the Black Gowns have said be- fore. This good chief walks faithfully in the footsteps of iiis predecessor, which is no slight praise, 'i'his last, who was baptized at the age of 80, and admitted to communion in his 82d year, was the first to deserve this double favour, more on account of his virtue than his years. The day of his baptism he said to me, " If during my life I have com- mitted faults they were those of ignorance ; it appears to me that I never did any thing, knowing it to be wrong." At the time of his first communion, which preceded his death but }• I; I ■^ II 41 il f i 1 ' i i i : I ■ il \ 1 , ) •J02 Nanalive of a few (lays, hnvin|r been asked if iic had not some faults with which to rpprv)ach iiimself since his baptism — " Faidts," he replied, with siirj)rise, " how could I ever commit any, 1 wiiosu duly it is to leach others iiow lo do good ?" He was buried in the red drapery he was accustomed lo hang out on Sunday lo announce that it was the day of the Lord. Alphonsus, in the prime of youth soon followed him. He said to me on the day of his baptism : " I dread so much oirendiiig again the Great Spirit, thai 1 beg of him lo grant me the grace lo die soon." He fell sick a few days after- wards and expired with the most Chris. lan dispositions, llianking God for having granted his praycrr In the hope of their glorious resurrection, their mortal remains have been deposited at the fool of the large cross. Of twenty persons who died within ihe year, we have no reason to fear for the salvation of one. Not having been able this ytv^x to obtain either provisions or sufHcienl clothes to supply the wants of cur mission, I started for Fort Vancouver, the great marl of the honorable •Hudson Bay Company, and distant about one thousand miles from our eslablishmcnt. Tiie continuation of this narrative will show you that this necessary journey was provideniial. 1 found myself during this trip a second lime amongst the Kalispel tribe. They continue with much fervour to assemble every morning and evening to recite prayers in common, and ma- nifest the same attention and assiduity in listening to our instructions. The chiefs on their side are incessant in exhorting the people to the practice of every good work. The two principal obstacles that prevent a great number from receiving baptism, are — first, the plurality of wives; many have not the courage to separate themselves from those, by whom they have children. The second is their aults with ' Faults," tiinit any, (1 ?" He 1 to hang the liord. lim. Me so inucli I to grant lys after- positions, tiie hope aitis have we have )rovisions ission, 1 lonoiable thousand 1 of tliis ney was ond time le every and ma- g to our ssant in d work, number wives ; es from is their U a rearms Residtnce, 203 fondness for gambling, in which they risk every thing. 1 baptized CO adults amongst them during this last journey. Crossing a beautiful plain near the Clarke or Flat Head river, called the Horse prairie, 1 heard that there were 30 lodges of the Skalzy or Ka;tenay tribe, at about two day's journey froju us. I determined whilst awaiting the descent of the skill", which could only start six days later, to pay them a visit, for they had never seen a priest in their lands before. Two half breeds served as my guides and escorts on this occasion. We gallopped and trotted all the day, travelling a distance of GO miles. We spent a quiet night in a deep defile, stretched near a good lire, but in the open air. 'i'he next day, (Apiil 14) after having traversed seve- ral mountains and valleys, where our horses were up to their knees in snow, we arrived about 3 o'clock in sight of the KtEtenay camp. They assembled immediately on my approach ; when I was about twenty yards from them, the warriors presented their arms, which they had hidden until then under their buffalo robes. They fired a general salute which frightened my mule and made her rear and prance to the great amusement of the savages. They then defiled before me, giving their hands in token of friendship and congratulation. I observed that each one lifted his hand to his forehead after !)aving presented it to me. I soon con- voked the council in order to inform them of the object of my visit. They unanimously declared themselves in fa- vour of my religion, and adopted the beautiful custom of their neighbours, the Flat Heads, to meet night and morn- ing for prayers in common. I assembled them that very evening for this object and gave them a long instruction on the principal dogmas of our faith. The next day, I bap- tized all their little children and nine of their adults, previ- ously instructed, amongst whom was the wife of an Iroquois, i 1 i- if t I* '0 .1; I' Pi I 204 Narrative of wljo liad resided for thirty years with this trilie. The Iro- quois ami n('anadiiuj occupy thiMustlvcs in the ahsnu'H of a |)ric«t in instru«:iiiip them. Aly visit rouhl not hv lonjj, 1 left the Kdlf nay vill;ii;e al)0»it 12 o'elock, aeconijiiinied by twelve of llicsfe \varriors and some half-hlood C'rees, whom I had lapiizid in 18 10. They wisihed to escort me to the entrance ol the larj!c Flat Head lake, wilh the desire of givin{r nie a fareuell feast ; a real hanquft of all the good things their «()nntry prodiieed. The \\arriors had gone on ahead and (iis[ « r^ed in every direciion, ^owc to hunt anil others to fish. 'I'lie laller only purceeded in cat(diing a single trout. 'J'lie waniorH returned in the evening uiih a bear, gof'^'fi find six swan's eggs. •' Sed quid hoc inter lantos." 'I'lie (i>h and goof^e were ron^trd before a good fire, and the whole mess was soon prfsenud to nie. Most of my companions preferring to fast, I expressed my regret at it, consoling rhem however by telling them that CJod would certainly reward tiieir kindness to nie. A nionunt after we heard tli«.' last hunt( r returning, whom we thought had gone back to the camp. Hope t-hone on every rourUe- iiance. 'J'he wurrior soon appeared laden with a large elk, and hunger that night was banished from the camp. Each one hegar) to occupy himself; some cut up the animal, others heaped iuel on the lire, and prepared sticks and spits to roast the meat. 'J'he feast wjiich had commenced under guch poor auspices continued a great part of tlie night. The \vl)ole animal, excepting a small piece that was reserved for my breakfast, had disappeared before they retired to sleep. This is a sample of savage life. The Indian when he has nothing to eat does not complain, but in the midst of abun- dance he knows no moderation. The stomach of a savage has always been to me a riddle. The plain that commands a view of the lake is one of the riiP Tro- sence of bo loiijr, tnjKiiiird J C'rccs, scnrl mc le (Ics'ire ilie good pone on litint :inil ilc.liin? a ijT wiili a lioc inter e a good e. Most ny regret I hat God moment ihmighl coiintfi- arge elk, Each :ini(iiul, nd spils d under hi. The 3rved (or sleep. 1 he has abun- savage ie of the a Vear's Hesidencc. 205 most ferlih in the mounlainouH regions. The I'lal Head rive runs through it and exlends more than '200 miU-s to the North IilaHt. It is wiilo and deep, ahounihng with tish and lined with wood, principally with the cotton, a.«*pen, pine and birch. There arc hemilirul siti-s for villages, but the vicinity of the Uladv Feet nuisi ilelay for a long while the good work, as they are only at two day's march I'rotn the great district occupied by these brigands, Irom whence they often issue to pay their ncighl)ours predatory visits. A second obstacle would be the great distance from ajiy post of the Hudson Hay Company ; consequently the dilliculty of procuring what is strictly necessary. 'I "he lake is highly romantic, and is from 40 to 50 miles long. Mountainous and rocky it-lands of all sizes are scattered over its bosom, which present an enchaniing prospect. These islands are filled with wild horses. liofty mountains surround the lake and rise from its very brink. On the IGih of April, after bidding adieu to my travelling companions, I started early in the morning, accompanied by two Canadians and two savages. 'I'hat evening we encamp- ed close to a delightful spring, which was warm and sul- phurous ; having travelled a distance of about fifty miles. When the savages reach this spring they generally bathe in it. They told me that after the fatigues of a long jour- ney they find that bathing in this water greatly refreshes them. I found here ten lodges of the Kalispel tribe ; the chief, who was by birth of the Pierced Nose tribe, invited me to spend the night in his wigwam, where he treated me most hospitably. This was the only small Kalispel camp that 1 had as yet met in my journeys. I here establish- ed, as I have done wherever 1 stopped, the custom of morn- ing and evening prayers. During the evening the chief who had looked very gloomy, made a public exposition of 18 fv I ^! 4 206 Narrative of his whole life. *' Black Gown," said he, ♦' you find your- self in the lodge of a most wicked and unhnppy man; all ihe evil that a man could do on earili, I believe I have been guilty of: I have even assassinated several of my near rela- tions ; since then, there is nought in my heart but trouble, bitterness and remorse. Why does not the Great Spirit annihilate me? I still possess life, but there will be nei- ther pardon nor mercy for me afier death." These words and the feeling manner with which they were addressed to me drew tears of compassion from my eyes. "Poor, un- fortunate man," I replied, •' you are really to be pitied, but you increase your misery by thinking that you cannot ob- tain pardon. The devil, man's evil spirit, is the author of this bad thought. Do not listen to him, for he would wish to precipitate you into that bad place (hell). The Great Spirit who created you is a Father infinitely good and mer- ciful. He does not desire the death of the sinner, but la- ther that he shonid be converted and live. He receives us into his favour and forgets our crimes, notwithstanding their number and enormity, the moment we return to Him con- trite and repentant. He will also forgive you if you walk in the path which His only Son, Jesus Christ, came on earth to trace for us." I then recounted the instance of the good thief and the parable of the prodigal son. I made him sensible of the proof of God's goodness in sending me to him. I added that perhaps his life was drawing to a close, and that he might be in danger of falling into the bad place on account of his sins; that I would show him the right path, which if he followed he would certainly reach Hea- ven. These few words were as balm poured on his wound- ed spirit. He became calmer, and joy and hope appeared on his countenance. '• Black Gown," said he, *' your words re-animate me: I see, I understand belter now, you have ^;! ' ind your- man ; all lave been near rela- it trouble, eat Spirit 11 be nei- se words Jressed to Poor, iin- )itied, but •annot ob- auihor of ould wish flic Great J and mer- er, but la- eceives us iding their Him con- you walk , came on nee of the made him ing me to to a close, 3ad place the right each Hea- ls wound- appeared our words you have a Fear's liesidence. 207 consoled me, you have relieved me from a burden that was crushing me vvilh its weiglit, for I thougut myself lost. 1 will follow your directions ; I will learn how to pray. Yes, I feel convinced that the Great Spinl wil! have pity on me." There was foitunaitly in the camp a young man who knew all the prayers, and was willing to serve as his caiechist. His baptism was deferred until the autumn or winter. The results of my visit l(» the Pointed Hearts were very consoling. They form a small but interesting tribe, animated with much fervour. As soon as they were certain of my visit, they deputed couriers in every direction to inform the savages of the approach of the Black-gown; and all, without exceptioR, assembled at the outlet of the great lake which bears their name, and which was the place I had indicated. An inge- nuous joy, joined to wonder and contentment, shone on every face when they saw me arrive in the midst of them. Every one hastened to greet me. It was the first visit of the kind they had received, and the following is the order they observed. Their chief's and old men marched at the head ; next came the young men and boys ; then followed the women — mothers, young girls, and little children. I was conducted in triumph by this multitude to the lodge of the great cluef. Here, as every where else in the Indian country, the everlasting calumet was fi;st produced, which went round two or three times in the most profound si- lence. 'J'he chief then addressed me, saying: "Black- gown you are most welcome amongst us. We thank you for your charity towards us. For a long time we have wished to see you, and hear the words which will give us understanding. Our fathers invoked the sun and earth. I recollect very well when the knowledge of the true and one God came amongst them ; since which time we have offered 1 ffff if. w 1 If. 1 . ■^ 1 "'' 5208 Narrative of a i 10 Him our prayers and vows. We are however to be 1 1 pitied. We do not know the word of the Great Spirit. All is dariiness as yet to us, but to-day I hope we shall see % $ ^\ \-: acl ■gown, lave done — every one IS anxious to liear you." I spoke to them for two hours 0.1 salvation and end of man's creation, and not one person stirred from his place the whole time of the instruction. As it was almost sunset, I recited the prayers that I liad translated into their language a few days before. After vvhifh I took some refreshments, consisting of frag- ments of dried meal, and a piece of cooked moss, tasting like soap, and as black as pilch. All this however was as grateful to my palate as though it had been honey and sugar, not having eaten a mouthful since day-break. At their own request I then continued instructing the chiefs and their people until the night was far advanced. About every half hour I paused, and then the pipes would pass around to refresh the listeners and give time for reflection. It was during these intervals that the chiefs conversed on what they had heard, and instructed and advised their followers. On awakening the next morning, I was sur-. prised to find my lodge already filled with people. They had entered so quietly that I had not heard them. It was hardly day -break when I arose, and they all following my example, placed lliemselves on their knees, and we made together the ofl*ering of our liearts to God, with that of the actions of the day. After this the Chief said: "Black- gown, we come here very early to observe you — we wish to imitate what you do. Your prayer is good ; we wish to adopt it. But you will leave us after two nights more, and we have no one to teach us in your absence." I had the bell rung for morning prayers, promising him at the same time that the prayers should be known before I left them. >*.< H a Yearns Residence. 209 er to be at Spirit, shall see 5 — every for two and not e of the prayers 5 before, of frag- . tasting r was as [ley and ak. At e chiefs About Id pass flection, rsed on d their as sur- They It was ng my made of the Black- B wish vish to e, and id the same them. After a long instruction on the most important truths of relision, I collected around me all the litile children, with the young boys and girls ; I chose two from among the lat- ter, to whom I taught the Hail Mary, assigning to each one his own particular part; then seven for the Our Father; ten others for the Commandments, and twelve for the Apos- tles' Creed. This method, which was my first trial of it, succeeded admirably. I repealed to each one his part until he knew it perfectly ; 1 then made him repeat it five or six times. These little Indians, forming a triangle, re- sembled a choir of angels, and recited their prayers, to the great astonishment and satisfaction of the savages. They continued in this manner morning and night, anlil one of the chiefs learned all the prayers, which he then re- peated in public. I spent three days in instructing them. I would have remained longer, but the savages were with- out provisions. There was scarcely enough (or one per- son in the whole ca np. My own provisions were nearly out, and I was still four days' journey from Fort Coleviile. The second day of my stay among them, I baptized all their small children, and tlien twenty-four adults, who were infirm and very old. It appeared as though God had re- tained these good old people on earth to grant them the inexpressible happiness of receiving the sacrament of bap- tism before their death. They seemed by their transports of joy and gratitude at this moment, to express that senti- ment of the Scripture : " My soul is ready, O God, my soul is ready." Never did I experience in my visits to the savages so much satisfaction as on this occasion, not even when I visited the Flat Heads in 1840; nor have I else- where seen more convincing proofs of sincere conversion to God. May He grant them to persevere in their virtuous reoolulions. Rev. Father Point intends passing the winter 18* ■1 I ; ! J, 'tit I: !•:. ii .1 ' u r i' 1 <> ■ i ![ ■ I t ■ i ; ^|:| I m i 4'i i ! 1 . m- 210 Narrative of with them to confirm them in their faith. After some ad- vice and salutary regulations, 1 left this interesting colony, and I must acknowledge, with heartfelt regret. The great chief allowerl himself scarcely a moment's repose for three nights I spent amongst them ; he would rise from time to time to harangue the people, and repeat to them all he was able to remember of the instructions of the day. During the whole time of my mission, he continued at my side, so anxious was he not to lose a single word. The old chief, now in his eightieth year, was baptized by the name of Jesse, In the spring the territory of this tribe enchants the traveller who may happen to traverse it. It is so diversi- fied with noble plains, and enamelled with flowers, whose various forms and colors offer to experienced botanists an interesting /jar/crre. These plains are surrounded by mag- nificent forests of pine, fir and cedar. To the west their country is open, and the view extends over several days' journey. To the south, east and north, you see towering mountains, ridge rising above ridge, robed with snow, and mingling their summits with the clouds, from which, at a distance, you can hardly distinguish them. The lake forms a striking feature in this beautiful prospect, and is about thiity miles in circumference. It is deep, and abounds in fish, particularly in salmon trout, common trout, carp, and a small, oily fish, very delicious, and tasting like the smelt. The Spokan river rises in the lake, and crosses the whole plain of the Coeur d'Alenes. The valley that borders above the lake is from four to five miles wide, exceedingly fertile, and the soil from ten to fifteen feet deep. Every sj)ring, at the melting of the snow, it is subject to inundations, which scarcely ever last longer than four or five days; at the same time augmenting, as in Egypt, the fertility of the soil. The potatoe grows here very well, and in great abundance. 1 1 a Yearns Residence. 211 The Spokan river is wide, swift and deep in the spring, and contains, like all the rivers of Oregon, many rapid falls and cascades. The navigation of the waters of this immense territory is generally dangerous, and few risk themselves on them without being accompanied by expe- rienced pilots. In descending Clark's river, we passed by some truly perilous and remarkable places, where the pilots have full opportunity to exhibit their dexterity and prudence. The rapids are numerous, and the roar of the waters incessant, the current sweeping on at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour ; the rugged banks and project- ing rocks creating waves resembling those of the troubled sea. The skilful pilot mounts the waves, which seem ready to engulf us, the canoe speeds over the agitated wa- ters, and with the aid of the paddle, skilfully plied, bears us unharmed through numberless dangers. The most re- markable spot on this river is called the cabinets ; it con- sists of four apartments, which you have hardly time to examine, as yon are scarcely half a minute passing by them. Represent to yourself chasms between two rocky mountains of a stupendous height, the river pent in be- tween them in a bed of thirty or forty feet, precipitating itself down its rocky channel with irresistible fury, roaring against its jagged sides, and whitening with foam all around it. In a short space it winds in four different di- rections, resembling very much, forked lightning. It re- quires very great skill, activity, and presence of mind, to extricate yourself from this difTicult pass. The Spokan lands are sandy, gravelly, and badly calculated for agricul- ture. The section over which 1 travelled consisted of im- mense plains of light, dry, and sandy soil, and thin forests of gum pines. We saw nothing in this noiseless solitude but a buck, running quickly from us, and disappearing •« 1 1 S t! I ii till 212 Narrative of il , 1 1:1 ■I u i \ir' almost immediately. From time to time, the melancholy and piercing cry of the wood snipe increased the gloomy thoughts which this sad spot occasioned. Here, on a gay and smiling little plain, two miriisters have settled them- selves, with their wives, who had consented to share their husbands' soi-disant apostolical labors. During the four years they have spent here, they have baptized several of their own children. They cultivate a small farm, large enough, however, for their own maintenance and the sup- port of their animals and fowls. It appears they arefearful that, should they cultivate more, they might have too fre- quent visits from the savages, 'i'hey even try to prevent their encampment in their immediate neighborhood, and therefore they see ?nd converse but seldom with the heathens, whom they have come so far to seek. A band of Spokans received me with every demonstration of friend- ship, and were enchanted to hear that the right kind of Black-gowns intended soon to form an establishment in the vicinity. I baptized one of their little children who was dying. It was in these parts that in 1836 a modern Iconaclast, named Parker, broke down a cross erected over the grave of a child by some Catholic Iroquois, telling us emphatically, in the narrative of his journey, that ho did not wish to leave in that country an emblem of idolatry. Poor man ! — not to know better in this enlightened age ! Were he to return to these mountains, he would hear the praises of the Holy Name of Jesus resounding among them; he would hear the Catholics chaunting the love and mercies of God from the rivers, lakes, mountains, prairies, forests and coasts of the Columbia. He would behold the Cross planted from shore to shore for the space of a thou- sand miles — on the loftiest height of the Pointed Heart ter* k a Yearns Residence. 213 ically, ish to age! »r the imong e and lirics, (1 the ihou- l ter- ritory , on the towering chain which separates the waters of the Missouri from the Columbia rivers ; in the plains of the Wallamelte, Cowlitz and IJiiter lioot — and, whilst! am writing to you, the Rev. Mr. Demers is occupied in plant- ing this same sacred symbol amongst the diU'erent tribes of New Caledonia. The words of Him who said tliat this lioly sign ivoiild draw all men to J/lmse/f. begin to be ve- rified with regard to the poor destitute sheep of this vast continent. Were he who destroyed that solitary, humble Cross now to return, he would find the image of Jesus Christ crucified, borne on the breast of more than 4000 In- dians ; and the smallest child would say to him : "Mr. Parker, we do not adore the croj^s ; do not break it, be- cause it reminds us of Jesus Christ who died on the cross to save us — we adore God alone." In the beginning of May I arrived at Fort Coleville on the Coleville river ; this year the snow melted away very early. The mountain torrents had oveiflowed, and the small rivers that usually moved quietly along in the month of April, had suddenly left their beds and assumed the ap- pearance of large rivers and lakes, completely flooding all the lowlands. This rendered my journey to Vancouver by land impossible, and induced me to wait, nolens volens, at the Fort, for the construction of the barges which were not ready untd the 30th of the same month, when 1 was again able to pursue my journey on the river. On the same day that I arrived among the Shuyelpi or Chaudiere tribe, who resided near the Fort, I undertook to translate our prayers into their language. This kept me only one day as their language is nearly the came as that of the Flat Heads and Kalispels, having the same origin. They were all very attentive in attending my instructions, and the old, as well as the young, tried assiduously to learn their prayers. I ^ A . III 4 IV 214 Narrative of !'■ !!! !'■! f V'. I. baptized all ihe younger children who had not received the sacrament before, for Mr. Uemers had already made two excursions amongst them, with the most gratifying suc- cess. The great chief and his wife had long sighed for bap- tism, whicji holy sai'ramcnt I administered to them, nam- ing them Martin and Mary. This chief is one of the most intelligent and pious I have become acquainted with. Tlie work of God does not, however, proceed without con- tradictions; it is necessary to prepare oneself for tlicm before- hand when undertaking any enterpiise amongst the tribes. I have had some hard trials in all my visits. I expected them, when on the 13ih of May, I slatted to see the Oki- nakane tribe, who were desirous to meet a priest. The in- terpreter, Charles, and the chief of the Shuyelpi, wished to accompany me. In crossing the Columbia river my mule returned to the shore, and ran at full speed into the forest; Charles pursued her, and two hours afterwards I was told that he had been found dead in the prairie. I hastened im- mediately, and perceived from a distance a great gathering of people. I soon reached the spot where he was lying, and, lo my great joy, perceived that he gave signs of life. He was however, senseless, and in a most pitiful state. A copious bleeding and some days of rest restored him and we resum- ed our journey. This time the mule had a large rope tied around her neck, and we crossed the river without any ac- cidents ; we took a nariow path that led us by mountains, valleys, forests and prairies, following the course of the river Sharameep. 'I'o wards evening we were on the bor- ders of a deep impetuous torrent, having no other bridge than a tree which was rather slight ind in constant motion from the rushing of the waters. It reminded me of the bridge of souls spoken of in the Potowattamie legends. These savages believe that souls must traverse this bridge iceived the made two fying siic- id for bap- ern, nam- f the most ill). iliout con- cm before- ihe tribes, expected I the Oki- . Tlie in- li, wished • my mule ')e forest ; [ was told tened im- gaihering •ing, and, He was copious ^e resum- rope tied any ac- Duntainsi, 56 of the the bor- r bridge t motion B of the legends. s bridge • ! a Yearns Beshhnce. 215 before they reach their olysium in the west. The good, they say, pass over it wiihoiitdanger ; the had, on the con- trary, are unable to hold on, but stumble, slatjG^er and fall into the torrent below, wiiich sweeps them oH" into a laby- rinth of lakes and marshes; here they drag out their exis- tence; wretched, tornienled by famine and in great agony, the living prey of all sorts of venomous reptiles and fero- cious animals, wandering to and fro without ever being able to escape. We were fortunate enough to cross the trem- bling bridge without accident. We soon pitched our camp on the other side, and in spile of the warring waves which in falls and cascades thundered all night by our side, we enjoyed a refreshing sleep. The greater part of the next day the path conducted us through a thick and hilly forest of fir trees; the country then became more undulating and open. From time to time we perceived an Indian burial ground, remarkable only for the posts erected on the graves, and hung with kettles, wooden plates, guns, bows and arrows, left there by the nearest relatives of the deceased — humble tokens of their grief and friendship. We encamped on the shore of a small lake called the Sharrameep, where was a Shuyelpi village; I gave these savages several instructions and baptized their infants. At my departure the whole village accompanied me. The country over which we travelled is open ; the soil, ste- rile and sandy, and the different chains of mountains that traverse it seem to be nothing but sharp pointed rocks, thinly covered with cedars and pines. Towards evening we came up with the men of the first Okinekane encamp- ment, who received us with the greatest cordiality and joy. The chief who came out to meet us was quite conspicuous, being arrayed in his couit dress — a shirt made of a horse skin, the hair of which was outside, the mane partly on his hi ir ' I I '*! 210 Narrative of chest and back, giving him a truly fantastic and savage ap- pearance. The camp also joined us, and the fact of my arrival having been soon noised abroad in every direction, we saw, issuing from the defiles and narrow passes of the mountains, bands of Indians who had gone forth to gather their harvest of roots. Many sick were presented to me for baptism, of which rite they already knew the impor- tance. Before reaching the rendezvous assigned us, on the borders of the Okinakane lake, I was surrounded by more than 200 horsemen, and more than 200 others were already in waiting. Wo recited ♦ogeiher night prayers, and all listened with edifying attention to the instruction [ gave them. The interpreter and Martin continued the religious conversation until the night was far advanced ; they mani- fested the same anxiety to hear the word of God that the Stiel Shoi had shown. All the next day was spent iu pray- er, instructions and hymns — I baptized 106 children and some old people, and in conclusion named the plain where these consoling scenes occurred, the " plain of prayer." it would be impossible forme to give you an idea of the pie- ty, the happiness of these men, who are thirsting for the life-living waters of the Divine word. How much good a missionary could do, who would reside in the midst of a people who are so desirous of receiving instruction, and correspond so faithfully with the grace of God. After some regulations and advice, I left this interesting people, and pursuing my journey for three days over mountains and through dense forests, arrived safely atj Fort Cole- ville. Amongst the innumerable rivers that traverse the Ameri- can continent, and afi'ord means of communication between its most distant portions, the Columbia river is one of the most remarkable, not only on account of its great impor- n ii rj ' •; a Year's Residence, 217 Lmeri- |t\veen of the Impor- i tancc, west of tlic mountains, but also from tlic dangers that attend its n»^'igation. At sonic ilistanco from the Pacific ocean, crossing a territory which exhibits, in several loca- lities, evident marks of former volcanic eruptions, its course is fre(|iiently impeded hy rapids, by chains of volcanic rocks, and immense detached masses of the same substance which, in many places, obstruct the bed of the river. I embarked on tliis river, on the 30lh of May, in one of the barges of the Hudson Hay Company ; INIr. Ogden, one of the principal proprietors, oflered me a place in his. I shall never forget tiie kindness and friendly manner with which this gentleman treated me throughout the journey, nor the many agreeable hours I spent in his company. I found his conversation instructive, his anecdotes and bon mots entertaining and timely; it was with great regret that I parted from him. I will not detain you with a descrip- tion of the rapids, falls and cascades, which I saw on this celebrated river ; for, from its source in the mountains to the cascades it is but a succession of dangers. I will en- deavour, however, to give you some idea of one of its largest rapids, called by the Canadian travellers, " great dalles." A dalle is a place where the current is confined to a channel between two steep rocks, forming a prolonged narrow torrent, but of extraordinary forci and swiftness. Here the river is divided into several channels separated from one another by masses of rocks, which rise abruptly above its surface. Some of these cl'.annels are navigable at certain seasons of the year, although with very great risk, even to the most experienced pilot. But when, after the melting of the snow, the river rises above its usual level, the waters in most of these channels make but one body, and the whole mass of these united streams descend with irresisti- ble fury. At this season the most courageous dare not en- 19 't p k * ■'¥ ', :y*- '.■4 ;i?''' ,,).,- n i- ^ f' ! i I:'': i. f J }ll '^18 Xarrutivc of %<\ t\ I counter such dangers, nnil all navij^ation is (iisconliniicd. In this stale llie river llows with an imposing grandeur and majesty, uliicli no language can describe. It seems at one moment to stay its juogrths ; then leaps forward with re- sistlc8b impetuosit) , and then rebounds against the rock* girl ibiands ol' whiclj I have already spoken, but which j)resenl only vain obstructions to its headlong course. If arrested for a moment, its accumulated waters proudly swell and mount as though instinct with life, and the next liiomcnt dash triumphantly on, enveloping the half smo- liiered waves that i>recei!cd them as if impatient ot their sluggish course, and wild to speed them on their way. Along the shore, on every projecting point, the Indian tish- erman takes his stand, spreading in the eddies his ingen- iously worked net, and in a short time procures for himself an abundant supply of fine lish. Attracted by the shoals of fish that come up the river, the seals gambol amid the ed- dying waves — now floating with their heads above the river's breast, and anon darting in the twinkling of an eye Irom side to side, in sportive joy or in swift pursuit of their scaly j)rey. Hut this noble river has far other recollections associated will) it. Never shall I forget the sad and fatal accident which occurred on the second day of our voyage, at a spot called the *' little dalles." I had gone ashore and was walking along the bank, scarcely thinking what might happen ; for my breviary, papers, bed, in a word, my little all, had been left in the barge. 1 had proceeded about a quarter of i; mile, when seeing the bargemen push off" from the bank and glide down the stream wiih an easy, careless air, I began to repent having preferred a path along the river's side, so strewn with fragments of rocks that I was compelled at every instant to turn aside or clamber over t'.em. I still held on my couise, when all at once, the barge , u I'dir's /iiHiilouc. 210 nliiuicd. Icur and IS at one Willi re- lic rock- l u'liicli irse. If proudly the next nlf smo- ot their !ir way. lian tish- 3 ingen- himself jlioals of 1 the ed- ove the an eye ol' their ections nd fatal voyage, ore and u might ny little about a 3 11" from careless dng the t I was er over e barge ^ is so abruptly stopped that the rowern o:iii hardly keep their scats. Kogainmij, however, tlicir rquilihriiiin, they ply the oars with retloubliMl vigour, but wiihout any ctfeciupDii the bargo. They are already wilhiii the power of Uio angry vortex : the waters are eresled with foam ; a deep sound is heard which I disling;uish as the voice of the pilot eucou- ragint; his men to hold lo their oars— to row bravely. Tho danger increases every minute, and in a moment more all hope of safely has vanished. 'I'he barge — the sport of iho vortex, spiiiis like a top upon the whirling waters — the oar.s are useless — the bow rises — the stern descends, and the next instant all have disappeared. A death-like chill shot through my frame — a diinness came over my siglii, as the cry " we are lost !" rung in my ears, and told but too plain- ly that my companions were buried beneath the waves. Overwhelmed with grief and utterly unable to allbrd ihein the slightest assistance, I stood a motionless spectator of this tragic scene. All were gone, and yet upon the river's breast there was not the faintest trace of their melancholy (ate. Soon after the whirlpool threw up, in various direc- tions, the oars, poles, the barge capsized, and every lighter article it had contained. Here and there I behelil the un- happy bargemen vainly struggling in the midst of the vor- tex. Five of them sunk never lo rise again. My interpre- ter had twice touched bottom and after a short prayer was thrown upon the bank. An Iroquois saved himself by means of my bed; and a third was so fortunate as to seize the handle of an empty trunk, which helped him to sustain himself above water until he reached land. The rest of our journey was more fortunate. We stopped at Forts Okina- kane and Walla-walla, where I baptized several children. The savages who principally frequent the borders of the Columbia river are from the lakes ; the chief of whom, with I I 220 ]\urrative of several of the nation, have been baptized ; also the Shuyel- pi or Chaudieres, the Okinakanes, Cingpoils, Walla-wallas, Pierced Noses, Kayuses, Altayes, Spokanes, the Indians from the falls and cascades, and the Schinouks and Clas- sops. We arrived at Fort Vancouver on the morning of the 8th June. I enjoyed the happiness and great consolation of meeting in these distant parts, two respectable Canadian priests — the Rev. Mr. Blanchet, grand vicar of all the coun- tries west of the mountains claimed bv the British crown, and the Rev. Mr. Demers. They are laboring in these regions for the same object that weare trying to accomplish in the Rocky Mountains. The kindness and benevolence with which these Reverend gentlemen received me are proofs of the pure zeal which actuates them for the salva- tion of these savages. They assured me that immense good might be done in the extensive regions that border on the Pacific, if a greater number of Missionaries, with means at their command, were stationed in these regions ; and they urged me very strongly to obtain from my Superiors some of our Fathers. I will try to give you in my next some extracts from the letters of these Missionaries, which will make the country known to you, its extent, and the progress of their mission. The Governor of the Honorable Company of Hudson Bay, Dr. McLaughlin, who resides at Fort Vancouver, after having given me every possible proof of interest, as a good Catholic, advised me to do every thing in my power to gratify the wishes of the Canadian Mis- sionaries. His principal reason is, that if Catholicity was rapidly planted in these tracts where civilization begins to dawn, it would be more quickly introduced thence into the interior. Already a host of ministers have overrun a part of the country, and have settled wherever they may derive s! a Year's Residence. 221 some advanlages for the privaiions their philanthropy imposes on them. Such is the state of these regions of the new world, as yet so little known : you perceive that our prospects are by no means discouraging^. Permit mo there- fore to repeat the great principle you have so often recom- mended to me, and which I have not forgotten: " Courage and confidence in God!" With the mercy of God, the church of Jesus Christ may soon have the consolation of seeing her standard planted in these distant lands on the ruins of idola- try and of the darkest superstition. Fray then that the Lord of such a rich harvest may send us numerous fellow laborers ; for in so extensive a field we are but five, and beset witli so many dangers, that at the dawn of day we have often reason to doubt whether we will live to see the sun go down. It is not that we have any thing to fear from the climate ; far from it — for, if here death came only by sickness, we might indeed count upon many years, but water, fire, and the how, often hurry their victims olf when least expected. Of a hundred men who inhabit this coun- try, there are not ten who do not die by some or other fatal accident. The afternoon of the 30ih June I resumed my place in one of the barges of the English Company, and took my leave of the worthy and respectable (Jovernor. — To my great joy I found that the Kev. JMr. Demers was one of the passengers, being about to undertake aii apostolic excursion among the different tribes of New Caledonia, who, according to the accounts of several Canadian travel- lers, were most anxious to see a Blackgown, and hear the word of God. The wind being favorable, the sails of the barge were unfurled and the sailors plying their oars at the same time, the llth of July saw us landed safely at Fort Wallawalla. The next day I parted, with many regrets, from my esteemed friends, Rev. Mr. Demers, and Mr. 19* 222 Narrative of ! f!^? Ogden. Accompanied only by my interpreter, we con- tinued our land route to the 19ili, through woods and immense plains. The hiffh plains which separate the waters of the Snake river from those of the Spokan, offer some natural curiosities. I fancied myself in the vicinity of several fortified cities, surrounded by walls and small forts, scattered in different directions. The pillars are regular pentagons, from two to four feet in diameter, erect, joined together, forming a wall from forty to eighty feet high, and extending several miles in the form of squares and triangles, detached from one another, and in different directions. On our road we met some Pierced Noses, and a small band of Spokancs, who accosted us with many demonstrations of friendship, and although very poor, offereu us more salmon than we could carry. The Pointed Hearts (a tribe which shall ever be dear to me) came to meet us, and great was the joy on both sides, on beholding one another again. They had strictly observed all the rules I had laid down for them at my first visit. They accom- panied me for three days, to the very limits of their terri- tory. We then planted a cross on the summit of a high mountain, covered with snow, and after the example of the Flat Heads, all the people consecrated themselves invio- lably to the service of God. We remained there that night. The next morning, after reciting onr prayers in common, and giving them a long exhortation, we bad them farewell. The 20th I continued my journey over terrific mountains, sleep rocks, and through apparently impenetrable forests. I could scarcely believe that any human being had ever preceded us over such ? road. At the end of four days* journey, replete with fatigue and difficullies, we reached the borders o'Mhe Bitter Root river, and on the evening of the 27lh I had the happiness of arriving safely at St» a Year's Residence. 223 Mary's, and of finding my dear brethren in good health. — The Flat Heads, accompanied by Father Point, had left the village ten days before, to procure provisions. A few had remained to guard the camp, and their families awaited my return. The 19th, I started to rejoin the Flat Heads on the Missouri river. We ascended the Bitter Root to its source, and the 1st of August, having clambered up a high mountain, we planted a cross on its very summit, near a beautiful spring, one of the sources of the Missouri. The next day, after a forced march, vve Joined the camp where we had such a budget of news to open, so many interesting facts to communicate to each other, that we sat up a' greater part of the night. The Rev. Father Point and myself, ac- companied our dear neophytes, who to obtain their daily '',;3ad, are obliged to hunt the buffalo, even over the lands ^i their most inveterate enemies, the Black Feet. On the 15th of August, the feast of the Assumption, (the same on which this letter is dated) I offered up the sacrifice of the Mass, in a noble plain, watered by one of the three streams that form the head waters of the Missouri, to thank God for all the blessings He had bestowed on us during this last year. I had the consolation of seeing fifty Flat Heads ap- proach the holy table in so humble, modest and devout a manner, that to my, perhaps partial eye, they resembled angels more than men. On the same day I determined, for the interest of this mission, which seems so absolutely to require it, to traverse for the fourth time the dangerous American desert. If heaven preserves me, (for I have to travel through a region infested by thousands of hostile savages) I will send you the account of this last journey. — You see then. Rev. B'ather, that in these deserts we must more than ever keep our souls prepared to render the fearful account, in consequence of the perils that surround us; and ill i»:-»l I'. 224 Narrative of i> '■' •1; -f Ij as it would be desirable that we could be replaced imme- diately, in case of any accident occurring — again I say to you, pray that the Lord may send us fellow laborers. ♦• Rogate ergo Dorainum messis ut mittai operarios in messem suam." And thousands of souls, who would otherwise be lost, will bless you one day in eternity. Rev. Father Point has expressed a desire to be sent amongst the Blackfeet. Until they are willing to listen to the word of God, which I think will be before long, he intends to preach the gospel] to the Pointed Hearts and the neighboring tribes. I trust we shall be able to make as cheering a report of these as we have already done of our first neo- phytes. I have found them all in the best dispositions. The Rev. Father Mengarini remains with the Flatheads and Pends d'oreilles. On my first journey, in the autumn of 1841, which ended at Fort Coleville, I baptized 190 per- sons of the Kalispel tribe. On my visit, last spring, to the various distant tribes, (of which I have just finished giving you the account) I had the consolation of baptizing 418 persons, 60 of whom were of the Pends d'oreille tribe of the great lake; 82 of the Koetnays or Skalzi ; 100 of the Pointed Hearts; 56 of the Shuyelpi ; 100 of the Okena- kanes, and 14 in the Okenakanes and VVallawa'.la Forts. — These, with 500 baptized last year, in diflerent parts of the country, mostly amongst the Flat Heads and Kalispels, and 196 that I baptized on Christmas day, at St. Mary's, with the 850 baptized by Rev. Fathers Mengarini and Point, make a total of 1654 souls, wrested from the power of the devil. For what the Scripture rails the "spirit of the world" has not wherewith to introduce itself amongst them. These poor people find their happiness even in this world in the constant practice of their christian duties. We may almost say of them, that all who are baptized are saved. — hi I' a Fear's Residence. 225 Since God has inspired you with a zealous desire to second the views of tlie Association for the Propagation of the Faith, entreat those pious persons to whom you may communicate your designs, to redouble their prayers in our behalf. I conclude by beseeching you earnestly to remem- ber me frequently and fervently in the Holy Sacrifice. I remain, very Rev. and dear Father, Your affectionate servant and brother in Christ, P. J. De Smet, S. J. : il ft LETTER XIV, \m ■ '■ ■> i ; n :! 'I ■m '"■• 11 St. Mary, June 28lh, 1842. Rev. Father : Thanks be to God, our hopes have at length begun to be realized ; the tender blossom lias been succeeded by pre- cious fruit, daily more and more visible in oijr colony ; the chief and people, by their truly edifying conduct, give us already the sweetest consolation. Pentecost was for us and for our beloved neophytes a day of blessings, of holy exultation. Eighty of tliem enjoyed the happiness of par- taking for the first time of the bread of Angels. Their as- siduity in assisting during a month at the instructions we gave them, three limes a day, had assured us of their zeal and favor; but a retreat of three days, which served as a more immediate preparation, contributed still more to con- vince us of their sincerity. From an early hour in the morning repeated discharges of musketry announced afar the arrival of the great, the glorious day. At the first sound of the bell a crowd of savages hurried towards our church. One of our Fathers, in a surplice and stole, pre- ceded by three choristers, one of whom bore aloft the ban- ner of the Sacred Heart of .Tesus, went out to receive them, and conduct them in procession, and to the sound of joyous canticles, into the Temple of the Lord. What piety— ^ what religious recollection, amidst that throng ! They ob- served a strict silence, but at the same time the joy and gladness that filled their hearts, shone on their happy countenances. The ardent love which already animated a Yearns Residence. 227 1842. fiiii to be by pre- >ny ; the , give us 3 lor us , of holy s of par- J'heir as- ilions we heir zeal rved as a e to con- ur in the iced afar the first ards our ole, pre- the ban- ve them, f joyous piety— 'hey ob- joy and • happy inimated llicse innocent hearts, was inflamed afresh by tlic fervent aspirations to tlie adorable Sacrament, which were recited aloud by one of our Fathers, who also intermingled occa- sionally some stanzas of canticles. The lender devotion, and the profound faith with which these Indians received their God, really edified and aflected us. Tlial morning at II o'clock they renewed their baptismal vows, and in the after- noon they made the solemn consecrti'..hochure had arrived tliere, accompanied by three priests, the Ilev. Mr. VVaUh making the fourth. A large ('alholic Church it was hoped would have been ready last autumn for the celebration of the Iloiy Mysteries. The natives were embracing our everlasiin^ f)i»h in great numbers, and the meeting houses were ainios; abandoned. The Bishop of Juliopolis, stationed at lied Kiver, writes to me that the savnk>'S dwelling near the base of the eastern part of the Rocky Mountains have deputed to him a half blood who resides amongst them, to obtain from his Grace a priest to instruct them. Rev. Mr. Thibault is des- tined for this missinn. I remain, Rev. P^alher, yours, F. N. Blancuet. 20» h M H At M' ll' "I! ■'■»'! =lr>i!'Pss in the future life. They begged me to per- mit the whole camp to assemble, that they might hear (or themselves the words of the Great Spirit, of whom they had been told such wonders. Immediat-ly three United Slates flags were erected on the field, in the midst of the camp, and three thousand savages, including the sick, who were carried in skins, gathered around mc. I knell beneath the banner of our country, my (en Flat Head neophytes by my side, and surrounded by this multitude, eager to hear the glad tidings of the gospel of peace. We began by in- toning two canticles, after which I recited all the prayers, which we interpreted to them : then again we sajig canti- cles, and I finished by explaining to them the Apostles' Creed and the ten Commandments. They all appeared to be filled with joy, and declared it was the happiest day of their lives. They begged me to have pity on them — to re- main among them and instruct them and their little children in the knowledge, love and service of the Gieat Spirit. I promised that a Blackgown should visit them, but on condi- tion that the chiefs would engage themselves to put a slop to the thievish practices so common amongst them, and to oppose vigorously the corrupt morals of their tribe. Be- lieving me to be endowed wiih supernatural powers, they had entreated me from the very commencement of our con- versation, to free them from the sickness tliat then desola- ted the camp, and to supply them with plenty, I repeated to them on this occasion that the Great Spirit alone could remove these evils — God, I said, listens to the sup- plications of the good and pure of heart; of those who de- test their sin?, and wish to devote themselves to His ser- vice — but He shuts his ear to the prayers of those who violate His holy law. In His anger, God had de- stroyed by fire, five infamous •• villages" (Sodom, Go- i III i ■m ■ i 238 Narrative of morrah, etc.) in consequence of their horrid abomina- tions — tiiat the Crows walked in the ways of these wicked men, consequently llicy could not complain if the Great Spirit seemed to punish ihem by sickness, war and famine. They were themselves the authors of all their ca- lamities — and if they did not change thsir mode of life very soon, they might expect to see their misfortunes increase from day to day — while the most awful torments awaited them, and all wicked men after their dcaih. 1 assured them in fine that heaven would be the reward of those who would repent of their evil deeds and practice the religion of the Great Spirit. The grand orator of tlie camp was the first to reply : " Black Gown," said he, " I understand you. You have said what is true. Your words liave passed from my cars into my iieart — I wish all could comprehend them." Whereon, addressing himself to the Crows, he repeated forcibly, " Yes, Crows, the Black Gown has said what is true. Wc are dogs, for we live like dogs. Let us change our lives and our children will live." I then held long conferences with ail the chiefs assembled in council. I proposed to them the example of the Flat Heads and Pends-d'orielle?, whose chiefs made it their duty to exhort their people to the prac- tice of virtue, and who knew how to punish as they de- served all the prevarications against God's holy law. They promised to follow my advice, and assured me that I would find them in better dispositions on my return. I flatter myself with the hope, that this visit, the good example of my neophytes, but principally the prayers of the Flat [leads will gradually produce a favourable change among the Crows. A good point in their character, and one that in- spires me with almost the certainty of their amendment, is, that they have hitherto resisted courageously all attempts r i a Yearns Residence. 239 to introduce spirituous liquors among them. *' For what is this fire-water good ?" said the chief to a while man who tried to bring it into their country, " it burns the throat and stomach ; it makes a man like a bear who has lost his senses. He bites, he growls, he scratches and he howls, he falls down as If he were dead. Your fire-water does nothing but harm — take it to our enemies, and they will kill each otiier, and their wives and children will be worthy of pity. As for us we do not want it, we are fools enough without it." A very touching scene occurred during the council. Several of the savages wished to examine my Missionary Cross ; I thence look occasion to explain to them the sufferings of our Saviour, Jesus Christ, and the cause of His death on the Cross — I then placed my Cross in the hands of the great chief; he kissed it in the most respectful manner ; raising his eyes to heaven, and pressing the Cross with both his hands to his heart, he exclaimed, ♦' O Great Spirit, lake pity on me and be merciful to Thy poor children." And his people followed his example. 1 was in the village of the Crows when news was brought that two of their most distinguished warriors had fallen victims to the rage and cruelty of the Black Feel. The he- ralds or orators went round the camp, proclaiming in a loud voice the circumstances of the combat and the tragic end of the two brave men. A gloomy s'lence prevailed every where, only interrupted by a band of mourners, whose ap- pearance alone was enough to make the most insensible heart bleed, and rouse to vengeance the entire nation. This band was composed of the mothers of the two unfortunate warriors who had fallen, tiieir wives carrying .their new born infants in their arms, their sisters, and all ilicir little children. The unhappy creatures had iheir heads shaven and cut in every direction ; they were gashed with nume- ■i A 'i I i'i it til I j, 240 Narrative of rous wounds, whence the blood constantly trickled. In this pitiable stale ilic-y rent the air wiili their lamentations and cries, imploring the warriors of their naiion to have com- passion on then» — to have compassion on their desolate children — to grant them one last favour, the only cure for their alllieiion, and that was, to go at once and inflict signal vengeance on the murderers. 'J'hey led by the bridle all the horses that belonged to the deceased. A Crow chief jijounting immediately the best of these steeds, brandished his tomahawk in the air, proclaiming that he was ready to avenge the deed. Several young men rallied about him. They sung together the war-song, and started the same day, declaring that they would not return empty-handed (viz; without scalps). On these occasions the near relations of the one who has fallen, distribute every thing that they possess, retaining nothing but some old rags wherewith to clothe themselves. The mourning ceases as soon as the deed is aveng^. The warriors cast at the feel of the widows and orphans the tro- phies torn away from the enemies. Then passing from ex- treme grief to exultation, they cast aside their tattered gar- ments, wash their bodies, besmear themselves with all sorts of colours, deck themselves off in their best robes, and with the scalps afllxed to the end of poles, march in triumph round the camp, shouting and dancing, accompanied at the same time by ths whole village. On the 29ih 1 bade adieu to my faithful companions, the Flat Heads, and the Crows. Accompanied by Ignatius, (iabriel, and by two brave Americans, who, although Pro testants, wished to serve as guides to a Catholic Mission- ary, 1 once more plunged into the arid plains of the Yellow Stone. Having already described this region, 1 have noth- ing new to add concerning it. 'J'his desert is undoubtedly II N I. h I 1 '•^^^^ n.!i a Fear*s Residence. 241 dangerous, and has been the scene of more tragic deeds, combats, slralagems, and savage cruellies, llian any olher region. At each step, the Crow inlerpreler, Mr. V. C. who had sojourned eleven years in the country, recounted different transactions; pointing, meanwhile, to the spots where they jiad occurred, which, in our situation, made our blocd run cold, and our hair stand erect. It is the bat- tle giound where the Crows, tiie Black Feet, Scioux, \\ Sheyennes, Assiniboins, Arikaras,and Minatares, fight out their interminable quarrels, avenging and revenging, with- out respite, their mutual wrongs. After six days' march, we found ourselves upon the very spot where a combat had recently taken place. 'J'he bloody remains of ten Assini- boins, who had been slain, were scattered here and there — almost all the flesh eaten off by the wolves and carniverous birds. At the sight of these mangled limbs — of the vul- tures that soared above our heads, after having satiated themselves with the unclean repast, and the region round me, which had so lately resounded with the savage cries of more savage men, engaged in mutual carnage — I own that the little courage 1 thought I possessed, seemed to fail me entirely, and give place to a secret terror, which I sought in vain to stifle or conceal from my companions. We ob- served in several places the fiesh tracks of men and horses, leaving no doubt in our minds as to the proximity of hos- tile parlies ; our guide even assured me that he thought we were already discovered, but by continuing our precautions he hoped we might perhaps elude their craftiness and mali- cious designs, for the savages very seldom make their at- tacks in open day. The following is the description of our regular march until the lOih of September. At day-break we saddled our horses and pursued our journey; at 10 A. M. wo breakfasted in a suitable place, thai would offer 21 I I h ;■! ■in ^1 ii.l lltt 1^ . '\*' i !l< 242 Narrative of some nclvantage in case of an attack. After an hour and a half, or two hours' rest, we resumed our inarch a second lime, always trotting our liorses, until sunset, when we un- saddled them to dine and sup; we then lighted a good fire, hastily raised a little cabin of branches, to induce our ever watchful foes, in case they pun^ue us, to suppose that we had encamped for the night; for, as soon as the inimical videttes discover any thing of the kind, they make it known by a signal lo the whole party. They then immediately assemble, and concert the plan of attack. In the mean- tkjie, favored by the darkness, we pursued our journey quietly until 10 or 12 o'clock at night, and then, without fire or even shelter, each one disposed himself as well as he might, for sleep. It appears to me that 1 hear you ask : But what did you eat for your breakfast and supper? Ex- amine the notes of my journal, and you will acknowledge that our fare was such as would excite the envy of the most fastidious gastronome. From the 25th of August to the lOih September, 1842, we killed, to supply our wants, as we journeyed on, three fine bulTalo cows, and two large bulls ; (only to obtain the tongue and marrow bones) two large deer, as fat as we could have wished ; three goats, two black-tail deer, a big-horn or mountain sheep, two fine grey bears, and a swan — to say nothing of tlie pheasants, fowls, snipes, ducks and geese. In the midst of so much game, we scarcely felt the want of bread, sugar or cofiee. The haunches, tongues and ribs replaced these. And the bed ? It is soon arranged. We were in a country where you lose no time in taking off your shoes ; you wrap your bufl^alo robe around you, the saddle serves as a pillow, and thanks to the fatigues of a long journey of about forty miles, under a burning sun, you have scarcely laid your head upon it before you are asleep. a Fear's Residence. 243 The gentlemen of Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellow I Slo ith I nc, received me with great poliieness and kindne«s. rested there during three days. A journey so long and continuous, through regions where ihe drought had been so great that every sign of vegetation had disappeared, had very much exhausted our poor iiorses. The 1800 miles that we had yet to travel, were not to be undertaken lightly. After having well considered every thing, I resolved to leave my horses at the Fort, and to trust myself to the im- petuous waters of the Missouri in a skid", accompanied by Ignatius and Gabriel. The result was most fortunate, for, OB the third day of our descent, to our great surprise and joy, we heard the puffing of a steamboat. It was a real God-send to us ; accordingly, our first thought was to thank God, in all the sincerity of our hearts. We soon beheld her majestically ascending the stream. It was the first boat that had ever attempted to ascend the river in that sea- son of the year, laden with merchandize for the Fur Trade Company. Four gentlemen from New York, pro- prietors of the boat, invited me to enter and remain on board. I accepted with unfeigned gratitude their kind offer of hospitality; the more so, as they assured me that several parties of warriors were lying in ambush along the river. On entering the boat I was an object of great curiosity — my blackgown, my missionary cross, my long hair, at- tracted attention. I had thousands of questions to answer, and many long stories to relate about my journey. I have but a few words to add. The waters were low, the sand-banks and snags everywhere numerous ; the boat consequently encountered many obstacles in her passage. We were frequently in great danger of perishing. Her keel was pierced by pointed rocks, her sides rent by the '"wenty limes the wheels had been broken to snags 244 Narrative of a I'ear^s Resuhnce. pieces. The pilot's lioiiso liad been carried away in ihe tempest; the whole cabin would have followed if it had not been made last by a Jarge cable. Our boat appeared to be little more than n mere wreck, and in this wreck, after forty-six days' navlj^alion from tlio Yellow Slone, we arrived safely at 8t. Louis. On the last Sunday of October, at 12 o'clock, I was kneeling at the foot of iSt. Mary's Altar, in the Catlicdial, oflering up my thanksgiving to God for the signal j)rotec- tion lie had extended to his poor, unworthy servant. From the beginning of April I had travelled five thousand miles. 1 had descended and ascended the dangerous Columbia river. I had seen five of my companions perish in one of those life-destroying whirlpools, so jusdy dreaded by those who navigate that stream. 1 had traveised the Walla- mette, crossed the Kocky IMountains-, passed through the country of tiie Black Feet, the desi rt of the Yellow Stone, and descended the Missouri; and in all these journeys 1 had not received the slightest injury. '' Douiinus memor fuit nostri et bcnedixil nobis." I recommend myself lo your good prayers, and have the honor to remain Your very humble and obedient son in Jesus Christ, P. J. De Smet, S. J. !i !.f. A I i.\, ^^m- f ' 1 V'. \i - \ i ! «.cv in u - !Ji ! { i 3 » ?■ ! |i|.iii.» .>i|i.io "I'l'VI .M|| IIMIII Hp.H'.t* ii'Mi |Miy .%///'/ s^/ ^^/^■ / / / / / / ^-^ ./ |||.IIN).II|| ||ll Ollll HI.MV |iiin<>s; -ii'"!.!, v\ - \ 'I' ""'>l ■: 5 • ? 1^ 4 I ! ! i ii , i 1 i !|l'l ! M 5 I a. /. EXPLANATION OF THE INDIAN SYMBOLICAL CATECHISM. 1. Four tliousand years irom the crealioii of the world to tlie coming of the Messiah. 1843 years from the birlli of Jesus Christ to our times. (On the map, each blank line represents a century.) Inatruction. — There is but one God ; God is a spirit; He has no body ; He is every- where ; He hears, sees and understands every thing ; He cannot be seen, because he is a spirit. If we are good we shall see Him after our death, but the wicked shall never behold Him ; He has had no beginning, and will never have an end; He is eternal; He does not grow old; He loves the good, whom lie recompenses; He hates the wicked, whom he punishes. There are three persons in God[; each of the three is God— they are equal in all things, «&c. 2. The heavens, the earth, Adam and Eve, the tree of the knowledge of good and evil, the serpent, the sun, moon, stars, the angels, and hell. Instruction. — God is all pow- erful; He made the heavens and earth in six days. The first day he created matter, light, the angels. The fidelity of some and the levolt of others. Hell. The second day, the firmament, which is called heavens ; the tliird day, the seas, plants, and trees of the earth ; fourth day, the sun, 21* I t .}■■ M m 246 Catechism. moon, and stars ; fifth day, the birds and fishes ; sixth day, the animals, Adam and Eve, the terrestrial paradise, and the tree of the knowledge of good and evil. The seventh day was one of rest. A. short time after the seventh day, the serpent tempted Eve. The fall of Adam, original sin ; its consequences. Adam driven from Paradise, the joy of the Devil. The promise given of a future Saviour, the Son of God. He did not come immediately, but 4000 years af- terwards. N. B. It is not well to interrupt too frequently liie expla- nation of the figures on the chart. The necessary remarks on the history of religion in general may be made more ad- vantageously apart, and in a continuous manner. Pass at once to the Incarnation of Jesus Christ, the mystery of Re- demption, &c. 3. Death of Adam. 4. Henoch taken up into heaven; he will return al the end of the world. 5. Noah's Ark, in which four men and four women are saved; all the others perish in the deluge. Jnslruction.—' The history of liie deluge. The preachiugof Noah. The ark was 450 feet long, 75 wide, and 45 high. Deluge lasts 12 months. The Rainbow. Scm, Cham and Japhet. 6. Tlie Tower of iJabel, built by Noah's descendants. Instrucllon. — About 150 years alter the deluge; 15 stories high. Confusi(m of lan!.niages. 7. Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Joseph, Job, .Moses, Aaron, Pharaoh. Instniclion. — 'i'hc history of Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and Joseph. His dreams, lie is f^old at the age of 16. Jacob [)asses over to Egypt about 22 years after his son. 'i'he Israelites reside in that ci»uiilry 200 years. The history of Moses, the ten plagues of Egypt. The Passu- Catechism. 247 ver. The Israelites leaving Egypt. The passage of tlie Red Sea. Pharaoh's army. 8. Sodom, Gomorrah, five cities destroyed by fire from heaven. Lot saved by two angels. Instruction. — 'I'iiree angels visit Abraham. Two angels go to Sodom. The wife of Lot changed into a pillar of salt. 9. The ten commandments of God given to Moses alone on Mount Sinai, lastrucilon. — Fifty days afier the Israelites have crossed the Red Sea. i'he promulgation of the Commandments on two tables.. First fasi of Moses, idolatry of the people, prayer of Moses, golden calf, &,c. Second fast of Moses. Second tables of the law, iO years in the desert, the manna, the water issuii?g from ihe rock, the brazen serpent. Caleb and Josua. Moses prays with his arms extended. Josua. The passage of the Jordan. Fall of the walls of Jericho. The twelve Tribes. Go- vernment of God by means of Judges for the space of three to four hundred years. Josua, Debora, Gideon, Jephte, Samson, IKli, S.»mael, Saul, David, Solomon, Roboam. Instruction, — '!Mie kingdom of Israel formed of ten tribes; it subsisted htr 253 years, under 18 kings, 'i'hat of v'uda, formed of two tribes, subsistpd 3Pi] year-, under 19 kings. 12. The 'i'emple of Solomo.u .fni!'!f!iuhr—h was built in 7 years. lis delio.. i.oii. VVhut it contained. It was burned about the 16ih y^ a- rf the 3i'.h -a^c. It was re-built at the end of the cawtiviiN . This last buldinjj was very inferior, and it was at last destroyed forty years after the death of Jesus Christ. Julian, the apostate, was in- strumental in accomplishing tiie prediction of our Saviour. 11. The four great and the twelve inii .>r prophets. 12. Eiias lakfn up into heaven; wiil return at the end of the world. Eliseus his disciple. Jo.ias