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Ce document est filmA au taux de r^ 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X } itails i du odifier - une mage Th« copy filmad horti hat baan raproducad thanks to tha ganarosity of: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia Tha imagas appearing hara ara tha bait quality possibia considering tha condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol —^- (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. 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Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s an commandant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniAra page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la darniAre image de cheque microfiche, selon la cas: le symbole — •► signifis "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent dtre filmAs A des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmA A partir de I'anole supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammas suivants illustrent la mAthode. rrata o lelure. J 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 <1 Cook's Voyaoks. CAPTAIN COOK'S VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD EDITED, ^VITII N0TE?5, ETC., BY D. LAING rUKVES m>-~ -•■4,-*' ^TT*^*^Ta.ri IJ 00 EDINBUKGH W. r. NIMMO, HAY, & MITCHELL • I COOK'S VOYAGES ROUND TUE WOELD. [It may hero bo mentioned that, sive for the episode of iho. first sojourn .it Otahcito, taken below iVoni I)r Ilawkcsworth's account almost ut full IcniLjlb, the synopsis of the famous discoverer's first two voyages is taken from the third volume of "Maritime and Inland Discovery," pp. 28-69, in Dr Lard- ner's well-known but now not very easily attainable ** Cabinet Cyclopedia." Chapters III. and IV. of Book V. runs as follows; and they are none tlie loss valuable, as introducing some brief preliminary record of a man whom England, without any injustice to earlier or later names, may hono'stly regard as her greatest navigator and her most indefatigable and successful discoverer. We give the text cf the " C3'clopajdia," except for a few changes necessitated by severance from the context, jTcciscly as we find it after two-and-forty years.] COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. •'Thr intorrsta of science and the acqui.sitioJi of geographical knowlotlgo entered largely into the motives of the circumnavigations [we have] re- lated. But the first expedition of importance, fitted out wholly for scientific objects, was that entrusted to the command of the celebrated Captain James Cook. Iliis great na- vigator was bom of humble parents : his I'uthcr was an agricultural labourer, whose steady conduct was at length rewarded by his employer with the situation of hind or under-steward. As he had nine children, and his means were slender, ho was unable to assist materially their individual exer- tions to procure a livelihood. James, when thirteen years of age, was ap- prenticed to a shopkeeper at Straiths, a fi.shing town not far from Whitby ; but the ]>redileetion of young Cook for the sea was soon manifested with that Rtreugth of inclination v/hich Ls rare to accompany peculiar talentn. Ho encaged himself for seven yowf with the owners of some .sliijr, ('in- ployed in the coal trade ; and, wiien the jKjriod of his engagement wjus ex- pired, he was promoted by his em- ployers to the rank of mate of one of their vessels. The coal trade of Eng- land, being chicJly carried on near a singularly dangerous coast, where un- ceasing vigilance is required on the part of the .seamen, constitutes th« best school of practical mariners in the world. Cook, who obeyed his own inclinations when he turned sailor, profited, no doubt, in the highest degree, from the opportuni- ties which his coasting voyages af- forded him of becoming acquainted with the practical part of navigation. At length, being in the Thames in 1 755, when impressments were carried on to a great extent, he resolved to antieipiito the impending necessity, and odered himself to serve on bMrd the Eagle, a ms>»-^C-war of 60 gtat%. il Shortly aftor, tho friends and patrons of his family in York.»liiro having warmly recommended his intoit'sts to the care of Mr Oshaldi.ston, tho mem- ber for Scarborou'^li, and Caiitain (afterwards Sir Uti^'li) Palliscr, who commanded the K.iglc, reporting widl of his conduct and c;ir»aeit\', hn was appointed master of the Alercury, a small vessel which soon afterwards joined the llect of Sir Charles Saunders in the Gulf of St Lawrence. JJero the tilcnts and rcsohitiou of Cook Boon became conspicuous, '* It was found n.':;ess;iry, in order that tho fleet nii'^dit co-openite. with the nnny under (leneral Woll'e, that it should take up a position along the shore in front of'the French encamp- inonts ; hut before this mancetivre couhl be put in execution, tho channel of the river was to bo sounded. This dillicult task required tho union of more than ordinary intelligence and intrepidity, and Cook was the person selected for the ptiri^se. For several nights he carried on his operations unperceived ; but at length tho enemy discovered his movements, and, send- ing out a great number of boats after it grew dark, attempted to surround and cut him otf. Cook pushed for the Isle of Orleans; nr.d so narrowly did he escape being captured, that as he stopped on shore from the bow of his boat, the Indians in pu.duit of him entered at the stern ; and tho boat itself, which was a pinnace belonging to a man-of-war, was car- ried otr by the enemy. Cook, how- ever, had accomplislied his task, and hiid before tho Atlmiral of the fleet a survey of the channel, which was found to be both full and accurate. After the conquest of Quebec he '.v;ia a'>pointed to examine the more dilii- cult portions of the River St Law- rence, with the navigation of which the English had but little acquaint- ance. His zeal and abilities soon alter procured him an ap])oiutinent $a master to the Northumberland, which bore the Commodore's flag at Halifax. Here he found leisure to »p])ly himself to tho study of elemen- tary matheraitics, and to improve COOK'S VOYAOKS. p;'oT.I. those t«!r::*s as a j.rnetieal hydro- grapher of which ho had given such ample pr()(jt's in his first rudo essays. An wpyxiitiiiiily also soon o( cuneil of displaying his iiupi-ovement by sur- veyiii*' a part of the coast oi' New- foundland. This island had lately fallen into tho jiower of tho Englisli; antl its importance as a fishing station being fully apjireciated by Sir Hugh ralliser, who was appointed governor in the year 17G4, he strongly repre- sented to Government the necessity of making an accurate survey of its coasts; and, accordingly, by his re- commendation. Cook was appointed marine surveyor of Newfoundland and Lahiailor, and llio Grenville schooner was placed under his command lor this purjtose. The manner in which Cook executed this task confirmed the high ojiiuion alreaily entertained of his zeal and ability. A short jiapfr whicli he conimunioatcd to the Royal Societ}' on ati eclipse of the sun observed in Newfoundland, and the longitude of tho place as calcu- lated from it, procured him the char- acter of a respectable mathematician. *' But still higher honours awaited him. T!ie trau ut of the planet Venus over the sun's disc, calculated to take place in 1769, was looked for- ward to by the scientific world with much anxious interest ; and it was earnestly desired that all the advan- tage which could be derived to science from so rare a phenomenon might be secured b}' observing it in distant (piurtc rs of tho glo)>o. In accordance with this view, the Royal Society pre- sented an adilress to the King, setting forth the advantage of observing tho transit in the opposite hemisphere, tlieir inability to lit out an expedition for the purpose, and praying his Ma- jesty to equip a vessel to be despatched to tlie South Sea under their direction. This petition was at omo complied with- Tho person at first designed to command tho ex]tedition wa.s ilr Dalrymple, chief hj'drographer to tha Admiralty, and no less celebrated for his geographical knowledge than for his zeal in maintaining the existenoj oifaiiAaBtraliancoi.tinent. Dakympl# Ii;i,„ landed on Ticrm «lol rw^n. crossing a monisa and some low woods, «scend»'d the highest omiiicnce they could descry. It wa« now Tnidsumrnfir in this r«gion, and the ti'inpcratnro during the day was modem tcly wiinn, but 08 night approached snow ftll in gr^at quantities, and the cold bfcaine excessive. The exploring party, who had incautiously ndvani;cd too far, were unable to ('fleet their ret iru to the shore before sniisot, and were obliged to spend the night exj»oscd to lU the inclemency of the weather, in * singularly deso'atc and unshelterod region. Dr Solander, who, having travelled in the north of lliuope, Wiis well acquainted with the fatal effects of cold on the constitution, repeatedly admonished his companions to resist thd first approach of drowsiness, as the sleep superinduced by cold in sure to prove fatal ; but he was the first to feel the dangerous tori)or he pre- dicted, and entreated his companions to allow him to lie down and take his rest ; but they, fortunately instructed hy bis lessons, '^ ed in dragging kim along, and saved his 11 l A15UIVAL OF THE ENDK cuoas iurt, of the sliip : we ttiorcfore imTin'-linti'ly Btuck tlu-m amnri;* tlio rig^jiiii;, at wliicli they oxjirt'ssi^d '.ho gn it'-st satisfaction. ^Vo then |>ur- c}i!is.'(l thoir carj^oe.s, cnnsistinj; of cocoa-nuts, and various kinds of I'luit, wliich, after our long voyage, wiri' very arorptaMo. \Vo stood on with an easy sail all ni^'Iit, with soundinf^s from twonty- two fatlionis to twelve ; nJid about 7 o'clock in the mornin.j? wo came to an aiiclior in tliirtccii fathoms in Port iSoyal I'.ay, called by thenativt's Mata- vai. Wo were immediately surround- ed by the natives in their canoes, v. ho j;ave ns cocoa-nuts, fruit rescnil'iiiifj ajuilcs, bread-fruit, and some small lishes, in cxchaiijie for beads and other Irilles. They hml with them a pi;?, ^vl^ich they would not part h ith for anything but a hatihct, and therefore we refused to purchase it ; because, if we 1,'ave them a hatchet for a pig now, we knew they would never afterwards sell one for less, and we could not afford to buy as many as it was |iro- bable wo should want at that price. Tlie bread-fruit grows on a tree that '^ about the size of a middling oak. Its leaves are frequently a foot aiid a half long, of an oldong shape, deeply siiniatod like those of the fig-tiee, which they resemble in consistence and colour^ and in the exuding .of a wliile milky juice upon being broken. The fruit is about the size and shape of a child's head, and the surface is roticulatcd not much unlike a trullle. It is covered with a thin skin, and has a core about as big as the handle of a small knife. The eatable part lies bctveen the skin and the core; it is as wUite as snow, and somewhat of the cciisistence of new bread. It must be roa.'ted before it is eaten, beitjg first divided into three or four jiarls. Its ta.ste is insijiid, with a sli^^lit BWfctness somov.hut resembling liiat of the crunil* of whealcn bread mixed with a Jerusalem artichoke. Among others who came oH" to tlie ship was an elderly man, whose name, ns wo learned afterwards, was Owhaw, and who was immediately known to Mr Gore, and sevenU others who had boe" AVOUn AT OTMIKITK. 9 hero with Cap'iin Wallis ; as I was infornied that he liad been Tcry u- -lul to them, I took him on board tho ship with Hfytue others, and was particulai iy attentive to gratify him, as 1 hop<'d he might also be uefnl to us. As our stay hero was imt likely to bo very short, and as it w.-vs necessary tliit tiie mereliandiso whiih wh had brought for tnitlio with the natives should not diminish in its v:ilue, which it would certainly have dnrie if evciy person had been left at lilierty togive what he j>h';ised for such things as he .should jiurchasc ; ut tho same time that confusion aii^l r|u;irreis must necessarily have arisen from there being no standiir I at market ; I drew up the following rules, and ordered that they should be punctually ob- served : liulfis to he observed by evrrft person in or hrlonifing to his Miijfsti/a bark the Endeavour, for Hie better estab- lisliing a rerf^ilar and u n i/urm trade for provision, ointe(l, .shall trade or offer to trade for any sort of provi- sion, fruit, or other juodnction of the earth, milcss they have leave so to do. III. Every person employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is strictly to attend to the .same ; and if by any neglect he loseth any of his arms or working tools, or suffers them to bo stolen, l!ie, full value thereof will ho charged again-t his ])ay, ac- cording to the custom of the navy in such ca.ses, and ho shall receive such further punishment as the nature of the offence may deserve. IV. The same penalty will b« la- I !i| lu COOK'S V Hictffd on nvcry T»»;rson wlio is found to eiijl)C/zli', tni(l»!, or oiler to trade, with any part of the sliip's stores of what n.'ituro soever. V. No sort of iron, or anythin;; thftt is made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other usui'ul or notrss.iry articles, are to bo piven in exchange for anything but i>»ovision. J. Cook. An soon nn the sliip was properly doiMired, 1 wenton shnn-witli .>!r Hanks and Dr Sohmdcr, a party of men uinlcr arms, ami our friend Owhaw. Wo were received from the boat by some hundreds of the inhabitants, whoso looks at least pave us welcome, though they were struck with such awe, that the first who ajiproached us crouched HO low that he almost crept upon his hands and knees. It is remarkable, that he, like the people in the canoes, presented to us the same symbol of peace that is k!:own to have been in use amonp tho aiicient and niij.'lity nations of tho northern hemisj»lu're — the preen branch of a tree. Wo re- ceived it with looks and gestures of kindness and satisfaction ; and observ- ing that each of them held one in his hand, we immediately gathered every one a bough, and carried it in our hands in the same manner. They marched with us about half a mile towards the place whei« the Dol- Ehin had watered, conducted by Ow- aw ; they then made a full stoj), and having laid the ground bare, by clear- ing away all the jdants that grew upon it, the principal persons among them tlirew tlieir green branches upon the naked spot, and made signs tnat wo should do the same. Wo immedi- ately showed our readiness to comply, and to give a greater solemnity to the rite, tho marines were drawn up, and marching in order, each dropj)ed his bough upon those of the Indians, and ve followed their example. Wo then proceeded, and when we came to tho watering-place it was intimated to us by signs that wo might occu])y that ffronnd ; but it happened not to be fit for our purpose. During our walk they had Hhaken off their fint timid OYAGFA [VoY. L sense of our superiority, and were bo- coTno r.iiniliar : they went with u« from the watering-plnco ancl took n circuit throuph tho woods ; ns we went along, wo distributed htads and other small presoiits among thoni and had tho sati..'';".:lion to see that they wore much pralilied. Our circuit was not less than four or fivo miles, through groves of trees, which were loaded with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, and allorded the most grateful sliade. Under tliese trees were the habitations of the people, most of them being only a roof witliout walls; and the whole scene realised the poetical fa'des of Arcadia. We remarKed, however, not without some regret, that in all our walk we had seen only two ho,;,'s, and not a single fowl. Those of our com- pany who had been here with the Dol- phin told us, that none of the people whom we had yet seen wore of the firat class ; they suspected that tho chiefs had removed, and ujum carrying us to the place where what they called the Queen's Palace had stood, we found that no traces of it were left. W^e determined therefore to return in the morning, and endeavour to find out the noblesse in their retreats. In the morning, however, before we could leave the ship, several canoes came about us, most of them from the westward, and two of them were filled with people who by their dress and dei>ortmeut appeared to be of a superior rank. Two of these came on board, and each singled out his friend ; one of them, whose name we found to be Matahah, fixed upon Mr Banks, and the other upon me : this cerenjony consisted in taking ofi" great part of tlieir clothes and putting them upon us. In return for this, wo presented each of them with a hatchet and some beads. Soon after they made signs for us to go with them to the places where they lived, pointing to the SW. ; and as I was desirous of finding a more commodious harbour, and mak- ing further trial of the disposition oi the peojde, I consented. I ordered out two boats, and with Mr Banks and Dr Solander, the other Kentlemen, andonrtwo Indian friends. 1769.] A VISIT PAID TO TWl) ClMKl'S. II woemliarkfiilfor our ix|t('(lition. After rnwidi^uli'Hit 11 lea^u', tlioy iii;ity ; upon this dis- covery, his countenance changed in a moment ; and catching Mr Banks again by the hand, ho rushed out of the house without uttering any sound, and led him along the shore, walki)ig with great rapidity. When they had got about a mile from the house, a woman met him and gave him a piece nfclotli, v.hiili he h;i.'ach on the N Vu point of the bay, which wa.s ir. every respect convenient for our pur- where they were received by a woman, j pose, and not near any habitation of the natives. Having; iiiarke.d out tlie tpound tliat we int ended to oocui»y, a sFiiall tent bfluii.^iiig to Mr Banks was set up, which had been brought on .sliore I'Oi that pui j)oso ; by this time a gieat number of the people liad ^'athered about us, but, as it appeared, oiiiy to look on, there nut beiiij^ a single weapon of any kind amij!i<,' them. I intimated, however, that none of them wore to come witliiu the line I had drawn, exce[)t one, who ap- peared to bo a cliief, and Owhaw. To theae two persons I aildrcssed myself by signs, and endeavoured to make tli'-'m understand that wo wanted the ground which we had marked out to sleep upon for a certain number of nights, and that then we should go away. Whether I was understood, I cannot certainly determine ; but the people behaved with a deference and iesi)ect that at once plea.sed and sur- prised us ; they sat down peaceably without the circle, and looked on, without giving us any interruj)tion, till we had done, which was upwai'ds of two hours. As we had seen no poultry, and but two hogs, in our walk when we were hist on shore at this place, we suspected that upon our arrival they had been driven farther up the country; and tlio rather, as Owhaw was very importunate with us, by signs, not to go into the woods, which, however, and partly for these reasons, we were detcimined to do. Having therefore appointed the thir- teen marines and a p« ity officer to guard the tent, >\e tei out, and a great number of the natives joined our party. As we were crossing a little river that lay in our way, we saw some du<'ks, and Mr Banks, as soon as he had got over, hred at them, and happened to kill thrso at one shot. This .struck [the natives] with the utmost terror, so that most of them fell suddenly to the ground as if they also had bceu shot at the same dis- char«je. It was not long, however, before they recovered from their fright, .tnd we continued our route ; but we hud not gone far before wo were alarui- *d by the report of two pieces, which were tired by the jfuard at the tent. DISTUIIBANCE WITH THE NATIVES. 13 \Vo had then straggled a little distanca from each other, but Owhaw immedi- ately called us together, and by waving his hand, sent aw.iy every Indian who followed us exc(.'pt three, each of whom, as a pledge of peace on their })art, and an entreaty t)i;it there might be peace on ouis, liastily broken branch from tlio tre(.'S, ui d came to us with it in their hands. As we had too much reason to fear that some mischief had happened, we hastened back to the tent, which was not distant above half- a-mile ; and when we came up, we found it entirely deserted, except by our own ]»e0{)le. It appeared that one of the Indians wlio reniaiued about the tent after we left it, had watched his oj)i)ortunity, and, taking the sentry unawares, had snatched away his musket. Upon this the petty oliicor, a midshipman, who commanded the party — perhaps from a sudden fear of further violence, perhaps from the natural petulance of power newly acquired, and perhaps from a bmtali ty in his nature— ordered the marines to fire. The men, with as little consid(;ration or humanity as the officer, immediately discharged tlieir pieces among the thickest of the flying crowd, consisting of more than a hundred ; and, observing that the thief did not fall, pursued him and shot him dead. We afterwards learned that none of the others were either killed or wounded. Owhaw, who had never left us, observing that we were now totiilly deserted, got together a few of those who had lied, though not without some diiJicuity, and ranged them about us. We endeavoured to justify our people ns well as we could, and to convince the Indians that if they did no wrong to us, we should do no wrong to them. They went away without any appearance of dia- trustor resentment ; and having struck our tent, we returned to the ship, but by no means satisiied with the trans- actions of the day. Upon questioning our people mora particularly, whose conduct they scon perceived we could not approve, they alleged tliat the sentinel whose musket was taken away, was violently assault* 14 COOK'S VOYAGES. (Toy. I. ea and thrown down, and that a pusU i otheriVuit, toullapittiorrisceasfriendly I ■ was afterwards made at him by the man who took the mu.skut, Itotbre any command was given to fire. It was also suggested, that Owhaw had 8U3- jticions, at least, if not certain know- ledge, that something would be at- temjtted against our people at the tent, which made him so very earnest in his endeavours to prevent our leaving it. Others imputed his importunity to his desire that we should confine our- selves to the beach : and it was re- marked that neither Owhaw, nor the chiefs who remained with us after he had sent the rest of the people away, would L-ir** infeiTed the breach of peace from the firing at the tent, if they had had no reason to suspect that some injuiy had been offered by their countiymen ; especially as Mi Banks had just fu-ed at the ducks. And yet that they did infer a breach of peace from that incident, was manifest from their waving their hands for the peo- ple to dis]ierse, and instantly pulling green branches from the trees. But what were the real circumstances of this unhappy affair, and whether either, and which of these conjectures were true, could never certainly be known. The uext morning but few of the natives were seen upon the beach, and not one of them came off to the ship. This convinced us that our endeavours to quiet their apprehensions had not been effectual ; and we remarked with particular regret, that we were deserted even by Owhaw, who had hitherto been so constant in his attachment, and so active in renewing the peace that had been broken. Appearances being thus unfavourable, I warped the ship nearer to the shore, and moored her in such a manner as to command all the NE. part of the bay, particularly the place which I had marked out for building a fort. In the evening, however, I went on shore with only a boat's crew, and some of the gentlemen. The natives gathered ?kbout us, but not in the same num- ber as before. There were, I believe, between thirty and forty, and they tralticked with us f^r cocoa-nuts and as ever. On the 1 7th, early in the morning, we had the misfortune to lose llr Buchan, the person whom Mr Banks had brought out as a p;iinter of land- scapes and figures, lie was a sober, diligent, and ingenious young man, and greatly regretted by Mr Hanks ; who lioped, by his means, to have gratified his friends in England with representations of this country and its inhabitants, which no other per- son on board could delineate with the same accuracy and elegance. He had always been subject to epileptic fits, one of which seized him on the moun- tains of Tierra del Fuego ; and this disoi-der being aggi*avated by a bilious complaint wnich he contracted on board the ship, at length put an end to his life. It was at first proposed to bury him on shore, but Air Banks thinking that it might perhaps give offence to the natives, with whose customs we were then wholly unac- quainted, we committed his body to tne sea, with as much decency and solemnity as our circumstances and situation would admit. In the forenoon of this day we re- ceived a visit from Tubourai Tamaide, and Tootahah, our chiefs, from the west : they brought with them, as emblems of peace, not branches of plantain, but two young trees, and would not venture on board till these had been received ; having probably been alarmed by the mischief which had been done at the tent. Each of them also brought, as propitiatory ^ifts, some bread-fruit, and a hog ready dressed. This was a most ac- ceptable present, as we perceived that hogs were not always to be got ; and in return we gave to each of our noblo benefactors a hatchet and a nail. In the evening we went on shore and set up a tent, in which Mr Green and myself spent the night, in order to observe an eclipse of the first satellitb of Jupiter ; but the weather becoming cloudy, we were disappointed. On the 18th, at daybreak, I went on shore, with as many people aa could possibly be sjiareid from th* 17C9.] EHKCTION OF A FOllT. hl,ii>, and ne^an to erect our fort While some were employed iu throw- int^ up tntrenchmenta, others were basy in cutting? pickets and fascines, whicli the natives, who soon gathered round us as they had been used to do, were so far from hindering, that many ot them voluntarily assisted us, brii!;,'- iuK the pickets and fascines from the wood where they had been cn.t, with great alacrity. We had, indeed, been 80 scrupulous of invading their pro- j>erty, that we purchased every stake which was used upon this occasion, and cut down no tree till we had first obtained their consent. The soil V here we constructed our fort wjis gandy, and this made it necessary to Btrengthen the entrenchments with wood ; three sides were to be fortified in this manner ; the fourth was bounded by a river, upon the banks of which I proposed to place a proper number of water-casks. This day we served pork to the ship's company for the first time, and the Indians brought down so much bread-fruit and cocoa- nuts, that we found it necessary to send away part of them unbought, and to acquaint them by signs, tliat we should want no more for two days to come. Everything was purchased this day with beads ; a single bead, as big as a pea, being the purchase of five or six cocoa-nuts, and as many of the bread-fruit. Mr Banks's tent was got up before night within the works, and he slept on shore for the first time. Pro])er sentries were placed round it, but no Indian attempted to approach it the whole night. The next morning, our friend Tu- bourai Tamaidc made Mr Banks a visit at the tent, and brought with him not only his wife and family, but khe roof of a house, and several mater- ials for setting it up, with furniture *nd implements of various kinds, in- tending, as we understood him, to take up his residence in our neiglibour- hood. This instance of his confidence and good-will gave us great pleasure, and we determined to strengthen his attachment to us by every means in onr power. Soon after his arrival he took Mr Banks by the hand, and lending him out of the line, signified I'iiat he should aicoinpuiiy him into the wood.s. Mr l' inks readily con- sented, and having walked with him about a iiuarter of a mile, they arrived at a kind of awning which he had alreatly set up, and which seemed to be his oicasional habitation. Here he unfoMud a bundle of his country cloth, and taking out two garments, or.e of red cloth, and the other of very neat matting, he clothed }i\t Banks in them, and without any other cere- mony immediately conducted him back to the tent. His attendants soon after brought him some pork and bread-fruit, which he ate, dij*- ping his meat into salt water instead of sauce ; after his meal he retired to Mr Banks's bed, and slept about an hour. In the afternoon, his wife Tomio brought to the tent a young man about two-and-twenty years of age, of a very comely appearance, wliom they both seemed to acknow- ledge us their son, though we after- wards discovered that he was not so. In the evening, this young man aud another chief, who had also paid us a visit, went away to the westward, but Tubourai Tamaide and his wife returned to the awning in the skirts of the wood. Our surgeon, Mr Monkhouse, hav ing walked out this evening, reported that he had seen the body of the man who had been shot at the tents, which he said was wrapped in cloth, and placed on a kind of bier, supported by stakes, under a roof that seemed to have been set up for the purpose ; that near it were deposited some in- striiments of war, and other things, which he would particularly have examined but for the stench of the body, which was intolerable. He Boici, that he saw also two more sheds of the same kind, in one of which were the bones of a human body that had lain till they were quite dry. We discovered, afterwards, that this was the way in which they usually disposed of their cU-ad. A kind of market now began to bo kept just without the lines, and was plentifully supplied with everything Hi COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY.i. but pork. Tnbonrai Tamaiile was our constant giiost, imitating our manners, even to the using of a knife and fork, which he did veiy handily. As my curiosity was excited by Mr Monkhouse's account of the situation of the mai3 who had been shot, I took an opportunity to go with some otlicrs to see it. I found the shed under which his body lay, close by the house in which he resided when he was alive, some otlicr.s being not more than ten yards distant ; it waa about fifteen feet long, and eleveu broad, and of a ]»ro]>ortiouable height ; one end was wholly open, and the other end, and the two sides, were partly enclosed <^ ith a kind of wicker work. The bier on which the corpse was deposited was a frame of wood like that in which the sea- beds, called cots, are placed, with a matted bot- tom, and supported by four posts, at the height of about five feet from the ground. The body was covered first with a mat, and thou with white cloth ; by the side of it lay a wooden mace, one of their weapons of war, and near the head of it, which lay next to the close end of the shed, lay two cocoa-nut shells, such as are some- times used to carry water in ; at the other end a bunch of green leaves, with some dried t^vigs, all tied to- gether, were stuck in the ground, by which lay a stone about as big as a cocoa-nut. Near these lay one of the young plantain trees, which are used for emblems of peace, and close by it a stone axe. At the open end of the shed also hung, in several strings, a great number of palm-nuts, and with- out the shed was stuck upright in the ground the stem of a plantain tree about five feet high, upon the top of which was i)laccd a cocoa-nut snell full of fresh water. Against the side of one of the posts hung a small bag, containing a few pieces of bread-fruit -eady roasted, which were not all put in at the same time, for some of them were frech; and others stale. I took notice that seveii.1 of the natives ob- 4erved us with a mixture of solicitude and jealousy in their countenances, and by their gestures expres.sed uneasi- ness when wtj went near the body, standing themselves at a little dis- tance while we were making our exa- mination, and a[)pcaring to be pleased when we came away. Our residence on shore would by no mean' have been disagreeable if we had not been incessantly torment- ed by the flies, which, among other mischief, made it almost impossible for Mr Parkinson, Mr Bank's natural history pninter, to work; for tlicy uot only covered his subject so as that no part of its surface could be seen, but even ate the colour oft" the paper as fast as he could lay it on. We had recourse to mosquito-nets and fly- traps, which, though they made the inconvenience tolerable, were very fur from removing it. On the 22d, Tootahah gave us a specimen of the music of this country : four persons performed upon flutes, which had only tAVO stops, and there- fore coidd not sound more than four notes by half tones. They wera sounded like our German flutes, ex- cept that the performer, instead of applying it to his mouth, blew into it with one nostril, while he stopped the other with his thumb. To theso instruments four other persons sung, and kept very good time; but only one tune was played during the whoh concert. Several of the natives brought at axes, which they had received from on board the Dolphin, to grind and repair; but among others there was one which became the subject of much speculation, as it appeared to be French. After much inquiry, we learned that a ship had been here between our .arrival and the departur-J of the Dolphin, whirh we then con- jectured to have been a Spaniard, but afterwards knew to have been tho Boudeuse, commanded by M. de Bou* gainvi . On the 24th, Mr Banks and Dr Solander examined the country for several miles along the shore to the eastwaixL For about two miles it was flat and fertile; after that ths hills stretched quite to the water's edge, and a little farther ran cut int-.^ [VoY.i. the bo.ly, little dis- ug our exa- ) he pleased I would by iifrreeable if ly tonnent- moiig other ; impossible nk's natural for tli'-y uot 10 as tiiat no be seen, but he pai)or as a. We had ts and fly- ;v made the were very for h gave us a this country : upon flutes, s, and there- ore than four They wera an flutea, ex- T, instead of th, blew into le he stopped h. To thesa )erson8 sung, ne; but only ing thewhob j8 brought ci received from to grind and ers there was object of much reared to bj inquiry, wa ad been here the departur-i we then con- Spaniard, but ave been tho )y M. de Bou- Janks aid Di e countiy for shore to the two miles it after that thi to the water's er ran cut int: 1769.] the sea, so that they weie obliged to climb over them. These hills, which were barren, continued for about three lailes more, and then terminated in a large plain, whicli was full of good houses, and people wlio appeared to live in great aflluence. In this place there was a river, much more con- Biilerable than that at our fort, which issued from a deep nnd beautiful val- ley, and where our travellers crossed it, though at some distance from the sea, was near 100 yards wide. About a mile beyond this river the countiy became again bar-on, the rooks ev jry- wliero projecting into the sea for which reason they resolved to rcium. Just as they had formed tliis resolu- tion, one of the natives oiiered them refreshment, which they accepted. They found this man to be of a kind that has been described by various authors as mixed with many nations, but distinct from them all. His skin was of a dead white, without the least ap])earance of what is called com- plexion, though some parts of his body were in a small degree less Tvhite than others; his hair, eyebrows, and beard were as white as his skin ; his eyes appeared as if they were blood- shot, and he seemed to be very short- sighted. At their retiirn they were met by Tubourai Tamaide and his women, who, at seeing them, felt a joy which not being able to express, tliey burst into tears, and wept some time before their passion could be re- strained This knife to one of these wcmen, who negl . 1 to return it, and the next morning Mr Banks's also was missing. Upon this occasion I must bear my testimony that tho people of this CQuntry, of all ranks, men and women, we the arrantest thieves upon the face of the earth. The very day after ve arrived here, when they came on board us, the chiefs were employed in stealing what they could in the cabin, and their dependants were no less industrious in otlier parts of Ihe ubip ; they snatched up everything tbat it was possible for them to se- ttete, till they got on shore, even to CASES OF THEFT. 17 evening Dr Solander lent his the glass ports, two of which they cnnied off undetected. Tubourai Tamaide was the only one except Tcotahah who had not been found guilty, and t\e presumption, arising from this circumstance, that he was exempt from a vice of which the whole nation besides were guilty, could not be supposed to outweigh strong appearances to the contrary. Mr Banks, therefore, though not without some reluctance, accused hiui of having stolen his knife. He solemnly and steadily denied that he know anything of it; upon which Mr B.inks made him understand that whoever had taken it, he was deter- mined to have it returned. Upon this resolute declaration, one of the natives who was present produced a rag in which three knives were very carefully tied up. One was that which Dr Solander had lent to the woman, another was a table knife belonging to me, and the owner of the third was not known. With these the chief immediately set out in order to make restitution of them to their owners at the tents. Mr Banks re- mained with the women, who ex- pressed great apprehensions that some mischief was designed against Uieir lord. When he came to the tents, he restored one of the knives to Dr Solander and another to me, the third not being owned, and then began to search for Mr Banks's in all the places where he had ever seen it. After some time, one of Mr Banks's ser- vants, understanding what he was about, immediately fetched his mas- ter's knife, which it seems he had laid by the day before, and till now knew nothing of its having i)een missed. Tubourai Tamaide, upon this demonstration of his innocence, expressed the strongest emotions of mind, both in his looks and gestures ; the tears started from his eyes, and he made signs with the knife, that, if he was ever guilty of such an action as had been imputed to him, he would submit to have his throat cut He then nished out of the lines, and returned hastily to Mr Banks, with • countenance that severely reproacl'.ed \\ 18 COOK'S VOYAGES him with his snajiirions. Mr Banks soon understood that the knife had boon received from his servant, and was scarcely less uinuteil at vliat had happened than the ch-ef; lie felt himself to he the guilty person, and was very desirous to atone for his fault The jjoor Indian, however violent his passions, was a stranger to sullen resentment; and upon Mr Banks's spending a little time famil- iarly with him, and making him a few trifling jii'csents, he forgot the wrong that had heen done hun, and was perfectly reco));ilcd. Upon this occasion it may be ob- served that these people have a know- ledge of right ami wrong from the mere dictates of natural conscience; and involuntarily-condenin tbemsdves when they do that to others wliich they would condemn otlieis fnr doing to them. That Tubourai Tamaide felt the force of moral obligation, iis certain ; for the imputation of an ac- tion which he considered as indifftT- ent, would not, when it appeared to te groundless, have mrved him with such excess of ]>assion. "We must indeed estimate the virtue of these people by the conformity of their conduct to what in their opinion is right ; but we must not hastily con- elude that theft is a testimony of the fame depravity in them that it is in tis, in the instances in which our people were sufferers by their dis- nonesty ; for their temptation was such as to surmount, would be con- sidered as a proof of uncommon in- tegrity among those who have more knowledge, better principles, and stronger motives to resist the tempta- tions of illicit advantage. An Inaian among penny knives and beads, or 6ven nails and broken glass, is in the same state of trial with the meanest servant in Europe among unlocked coffers of jewels and gold. On the 26th I mounted six swivel gons upon the fort, which I was sorry to 86* struck the natives with dread. Spme fishermen who lived upon the Sint removed farther off, and Owhaw Id us, by signs, that in four days \M shonld fire great guns. [VOT.I On the 27th, Tubourai Tamaido, ynih a friend, who ate with a voracity that I never saw before, and the three women that usually attended bim, whose names wore Terapo, Tirao, and Umie, dined at the fort. In the evening they took their leave, and Slit out for the house which Tubourai Tamaitlu had set up in tlie skirts of the wood ; but in less than a (luarter of an hour he returned in great emo- tion, and hastily seizing Mr Banks's arm, made si^us that he shonld fol- low him. Mr Banks immediately complied, and they soon came to a I dace where they found the ship's (Utchcr, with a reaping-hook in his hand. Here the chief sto[»ped, and, in a transport of rage wliioh rendered his signs scarcely intelligible, inti mated that the butcher had threat- ened, or attempted, to cut his wife's throat with the reaj)ing-hook. ilr lianks then signified to him, that if he could fully explain the offence, the man should be punished. 'Tjjon this he became more calm, and made Mr Banks understiind that the offender, having taken a fancy to a stone hatchet which lay in his house, had offered to purchase it of his wife for a nail ; that she having refused to part with it upon any terms, he had catched it up, and throwing down the nail, threatened to cut her throat if she m;ido any resistjxnce. To prove this charge, the hatchet and the nail were produced ; and the butcher had so little to say in his defence, that there was not the least reason to doubt of its truth. Mr Banks having rejwrted this matter to me, 1 took an opportunity, when the chief and his women, with other Indians, were on board the ship, to call up the butcher, and after a reca])itulation of the charge and the proof, I gave orders that he should DO punished, as well to prevent other offences of the same kind, as to acquit Mr Banks of his promise. The In- dians saw him stripped and tied up to the rigging with a fixed attention, waiting in silent suspense for the event ; but as soon as the first stroke was given, thoy interfered with grwt CHANGEABLE TEMPERAMENT OP NATIVE/^ be transient, any 17«9.] Illation, earnestly entreating that the rest of the punishment might be remitted. To this, however, for many reasons, I could not consent ; and when they found that they could not prevail by their intercession, they gave veut to their pity by tears. Their tears, indeed, like those of children, were always ready to express any passion that was strongly excited, and, like those of cliildreu, they also appeared to be forgotten as soon as shed ; of which the following, among many othei-s, is a remarkable instance. Very early in the morning of the 28th, even before it was day, a great num- ber of them came down to the fort, and Terapo being observed among the women on the outside of the gate, Mr Hanks went out and brought her in ; he saw that the tears then stood in lier eyes, and as soon as she en- tered they began to flow in great abundance, lie inquired earnestly the cause, bat instead of answering, she took from under her garment a shark's tooth, and struck it six or seven times into her head with great force ; a ]>rofusion of blood followed, and she talked loud, but in a most melancholy tone, for some minutes, ifithout at all regarding his inquiries, which he repeated with still more im> Ktience ana concern, while the other dians, to his great surprise, talked and laughed, without taking the least uotice of her disticss. But her own behaviour was still more extraordin- ary. As soon as the bleeding was over, she looked up mth a smile, and began to collect some small pieces of cloth, which during her bleeding she had thrown down to catch the blood ; as soon as she had picked them all up, she carried them out of the tent, and threw them into the sea, carefully dkpersing them abroad, as if she visiied to prevent the sight of them from leviving the remembrance of what she had done. She then plunged into the river, and after having washed her whole body, returned to tne tents vith the same gaiety and cheerfulness as if nothing had happened. It la not indeed strange that the yarrows of thene artleRs people should 19 more than that their passions should bo suddenly and strongly expressed. What they feel they have never been taught either to disguise or suppress, and having no habits of thinking which perpetually recall the past, and anticipate the future, they arc atFccted by all the changes of the passing hour, and re- flect the colour of the time, however frequently it may vary. They have no project which is to be pursued from day to day, the subject of unremitted anxiety and solicitude, that first rushes into the mind when they awake in the morning, and is last dis- missed when they sleep at night. Yet, if we admit that they are upon the whole happier than we, we must admit that the child is happier than the man, and that we are losers by the perfection of our nature, the iccroase of our knowledge, and the enlarge- ment of our views. Canoes were continually coming in during all this forenoon, and the tents at the fort were crowded with leople of both sexes from different )arts of the island. I was myself )usy on board the ship, but Mr Mol- ineux, our master, w'ho was one ot those that made the last voyage in the Dolphin, went on shore. As soon as he entered Mr Banks's tent, he fixed his eyes upon one of the women, wlio was sitting there with great compo- sure among the rest, and immediately declared her to be the person who at that time was supposed to be the queen of the island ; she also, at the same time, acknowledging him to be one of the strangers whom she had seen be- (ot% The attention of all present was now diverted from every other object, and wholly engaged in con* ; sidering a person who had ms^e so distinguished a figure in the accounts that had been given of this island by its first discoverers ; and we sooq learned that her name was Oberea. She seemed to be about forty years (ot age, and was not only tall, but of a large make ; her skin was white, and there was an uncommon intelligence and sensibility in her eyes. Qhd ap^ peared to have been handsome when 1 i so COOK'S VOYAGES. V- Iv li I* she was yonnf;, but at thin time little rjoro tiian mcmoriiila of Lor Ijcauty were left. As 8O0Q a8 lier (juality wiis known, an offer was maiie to uunduot her to the shi)). Of thi.s bhu readily accepted, and caiiio on board with two men and several women, who seemed to be all of her family. 1 received her with such marks of distinction as I thought would gratify her most, and was not sparing of my presents, anioii^ which this augiist personage secniod particu- larly delighted with a child's doll. After some time spetit on board, I at- tended her back to the shore ; and as soon as we landed, she presented me with a hog, and several bunchejt of plantains, which she caused to be carried from her canoes up to the fort in a kind of procession, of which she and myself brought up the rear. In our way to tiie fort we met Tootahah, who, though not king, appeared to be at this time invested with the sorcreign authority. He seemed not to be wall pleaseil with the distinction that was shown to the lady, and became so jealous when she produced her doll, that to propitiate liim it was thought proper to compliment him with an- other. At this time he thought fit to prefer a doll to a hatchet ; but this preference arose only from a childish iealousy, which could not be soothed rat by a gift of exactly the same kind with that which had been presented to Oberea ; for dolls in a veiy short time were universally considered as trifles of no value. The men who had visited us from timetotimehad, without scruple, eaten of our provisions ; but the women had never yet been prevailed upon to taste a morsel. To day, however, though theyrefused the mo^t pressing solicita- tions to dine with the gentlemen, they afterwards retired to the servants' apartment, and ate of plantains very heartily ; a mystery of female econo- my here^ which none of us could ex- plain. On the 29th, not very early in the forenoon, Mr Banks went to pay his «ourt to Oberea, and was told that she was still asleep under the awning of [VOY.l. her canoe. Tliither, therefore, he went, intending to rj.ll her up, a liberty wltich hu thought he mi^ht take without any dani^er of giving otlenco. But, u]tou looking into her chamW, to his great astonishment he found her in bed with a handsome young fellow about five-aud-twenty, whose name was Obad^e. 1 1 u retreated with some haste and confusion, but was soon made to understand that suoii amours ^ave no occasion to scandal, and that Obod^ewasuniversally known to have been selected by her as the object of her private favours. The lady being too polite to sutfcr Mr Banks to wait long in her antechamber, dressed herself with more than usual exi>cdi- tiun, and, as a token of sjiecial grace, clothed him in a suit of fine cloth, and proceeded with him to the tents. In the evening Mr Banks paid a visit to Tubourai Tamaide, as he had often done before, by candle light, and was equally grieved and surprised to find him and his family in a melancholy mood, and most of them in tears. He endeavoured in vain to discover the cause, and therefore his stay among them was but short. When he re- ported this circumstance to the offi- cers at the fort, they recollected that Owhaw had foretold that in four days we should fire our great guns ; and as this was the eve of the third day, th; situation in which Tubourai Tamaide and his family had been found, alarmed them. The sentries, therefore, were doubled at the fort, and the gentlemen slept under arms ; at two in the morn- ing, Mr Banks himself went round the point, but found everything so quiet that he gave up all suspicions of mischief intended by the natives as groundless. We had, however, an- other source of security ; our little for- tification was now comi)lcte. The north and south sides consisted of a bank of earth four feet and a half high on the inside, and a ditch without, ten feet broad and six deep ; on the west side, facing the bay, there was a bank of earth four feet high, and palisadoes upon that, but no ditch, the works here being at high-water mark ; on the east side, upon the bank of the f^ 1769.] TUBOURAI TAMAIDE'S USE OF TOIUCCO. placed a double row of 21 nver, wm placed a uouDie row nr;iter'Casks tilled with water ; and, as this was the weakost side, the two 4-ponnders were planted there, and six swivel guns were mounted so as to coiuraand the only two avenues from tl:2 woods. Our garrison consisted of about fire-and-forty men with small arms, including the otiicers, and the gentlemen who resided on shore ; and our sentries were as well relieved as on the best regulated frontier in Europe. We continued our vigilance the next day, though we had no particular reason to think it necessary; but about 10 o'clock in the morning, Tomio came running to the tents, with a mixture of giief ami fear in her countenance, and taking Mr banks, to whom they applied in every emergency and distress, by the arm, intimated that Tubourai Tamaide was dying, in consequence of something which our people had given him to eat, and that ho must instantly go with her to his house. Mr Banks set out without delay, and found his Indian friend leaning his head against a post in an attitude of the utmost languor and despondency ; the people about him intimated that he bad been vomiting, and brought out a leaf folded np with great care, which, they said, contained some of the poison, by the deleterious effects of which he was now dyin^. Mr Banks hastily opened the leaf, and upon examining its contents, found them to be no other than a chew of tobacco, which the chief had begged of some of our people, and which they had indiscreetly given him. He had observed that they kept it long in the mouth, and being desirous of doing the same, he had chewed it to powder and swal- '.owed the spittle. During the exam- ination of the leaf and its contents, he looked up at Mr Banks with the most piteous aspect, and intimated that he had but a very short time to live. Mr Banks, however, being now niaster of his disease, directed him to drink plentifully of cocoa-uut milk, which m a short time nut an end to his sickness and apprehensions ; and he spent the day at the fort with that uncommon Mow of olioerfnlnrss and goud-Luniuur which is always pro- duced by a sudden and uiiox|>ooted -elit'f from pain either of body or mind. Captain Wallia haying brought home one of the adzes which those people — having nometal of auykind — make of stone, Mr Stevens, the Secre- tary to the Admiraltjr, procured one to be made of iron in imitation of it, which I brought out with me, to show how much we excelled in making tools after their own fashion. This I had not yet pioihio«d, as it never hap- pened to come into my mind. But on the 1st of May, Tootahnh, coming on board about 10 o'clock in the fore- noon, expressetl a great curiosity to see the contents ot every chest and drawer that was in my cabin. As I always made a point of gratifying him, I opened them immediately ; and having taken a fancy to many things that he saw, and collected them to- gether, he at last happened to cast his eye upon this adze. He instantly snatched it up with the greatest eager- ness, and, putting away everything which he had before selected, he asked me whether I would let him hare that. I readily consented ; and, as if he was fffraid 1 should repent, he car- ried it off immediately in a transport of joy, without making any other re- quest, which, what«jver had been our liberality, was seldom the case. About noon, a chief who had dined with me a few days before, accom- panied by some of his women, came on board alone. I had observed that he was fed by his women, but I made no doubt that upon occasion he would condescend to feed himself. In this» however, I found myself mistaken. When my noble guest was seated, and the dinner upon the table, I helped him to some victuals. As I observed that he did not immediately begin his meal, I pressed him to eat; but he still continued to sit motionless like a statue, without attempting to put a single morsel into his mouth, and would certainly have gone without his dinner if one of the servants had not fed him. COOK'S TOTAQES. ni In the afternoon of Monday the 1st of Muy wo sec up the obscrviitory, and took the astronomical quadrant, with some other instruments, on shore, for the first time. Tlio next morning, about 9 o'clock, I wont on shore with Mr Green to fix the quadrant in a situation for use, when, to our inex- j)reasihle Rur]>rise and concern, it wns not to be found. It had been deposited in the tent which was reserved for my use, whore, as I pflsseard, nobody slept. It had never boon taken out of the packing-case, which was eighteen inches square, and the whole was of considerable weight ; a sentinel had been posted the whole night within five yards of the tent door, and none of the other instru- ments were missing. We at first sus- pected that it might have been stolen by somo of our own people, who, see- ing a deal box, and not knowing the contents, might think it contained nails, or some other subjects of traffic with the natives. A large reward was tl'.orefore offered to any one who could find it, as without this we could not perfonn the service for which our voy- age was nrincipally undertaken. Our search in the meantime was not con- fined to the fort and places adjacent, but as the case might possibly have been carried back to the ship, if any of our own people had been the thieved, the most diligent search was made for it on board. All the parties, how- ever, returned without any news of the quadrant Mr Banks, therefore, who upon such occasions declined neither labour nor risk, and who had more influence over the Indians than any of us, determined to go in search of it into the woods ; he hoped that if it had been stolen by the natives he should find it wherever they had open- ed the box, as they would immediately discover that to them it would be wholly useless ; ot*, if in this expecta- tion he should be disappointed, that he might recover it by tne ascendancy he had acquired over the chiefs. Ho iet out, accompanied by a midship- man and Mr Green, and as he was erossittg the river he was met b^ Tu- bound Tamaide, who immediately (VoT.t. made the fleure of a triangle with three bits of straw upon his hand. Ity this Mr Hanks knew that the In* dians were the thieves ; and that, although they had opened the case, they were not disposed to part with the contents. No time was therefor* to be lost, and Mr Banks maile Tu» bourai Tnmaide understand that hft must instantly go with hiTn to the place whither the quadrant had been carried. He consented, and they set out tui/ether to the c:istward, the chief inquiring at every house which they passed after the thief by name. The people readily told him which way he was gone, and how long it was since he had been there. Tho hope which this gave them, that they should over- take him, supported them under their fatigue ; and they pressed forward, sometimes walking, sometimes run- ning, thoiigli the weather was intoler- ablv hot. When they had climbed a hill at the d istance of about four miles, their conductor showed them a point full three miles farther, and gave them to understand that they were not to expect tho instrument till thej had got thither. Here they paused : they had no arms, except a pair pi pistols which Mr Banks always car- ried in his pocket. They were going to a nlace that was at least seven miles distant from the fort, where the Indians might be less submissive than at home, and to take from them what they had ventured their lives to get, and what, notwithstanding our con- jectures, they appeared desirous to keep. These were discouraging cir? cumstances, and their situation would become more critical at every step. They determined, however, not to re- linquish their enterprise, nor to pur- sue it without taking the best mea- sures for their security that were in their power. It was therefore deter- mined that Mr Banks and Mr Green should go on, and that the midshiji- man should return to me, and dej^ire that I would send a party of men after them, acquainting me, at the same time, that it was impossible they should return till it was dark. Upon receiving this mess^e, I set out with li, I>- 17«9.J THEFT OF A snch a purty aii I thought sufficient for the nrcnsion, loftving orders, both at tht> ship and at the fort, tliat no cani'C should be sufTorcl to go out of the buy, but that nntic of the natives itiir^uKl i>c si'izcd or detained. In the meantime, Mr IJanks and Mr fiief'U piirsned tht-ir joMrnoy, niiihr the auspieos of Tiibiturrii Tani- i'i !i', and in the very spi>t wliieh ho hill •:[te(iiii'd, tliey met one of his own jieople, with part of a ipiadrark in his Isand. At this most welcome sight they stopjied ; and a f^n<-iit number of Indians inimediatoly i anie up, some of whom pressing,' rnthc r rudely upon them, Mr l>anks thought it necessary to show one of his pi>>tol3, the sight of which reduced tneni instantly to order. As the crowd that }^atlierod round them was every moment in- creasinc,', he marked out a circle in the Kvass, and they rangf^d themselves on the outside of it, to the number of several hundieda, willi great nuictness and decorum. Into the middle of this circle, the box, whidi was now arrived, was ordered to be brought, with several reading glasses, and other small matters, which in their huiry they had i)ut into a ])isto]-case that Mr Banks knew to be his proj-i rly — it having been some time befoii; stolen from the tents, with a horse pistol in it, w-liich he immediately demanded, and which was all restored. Mr Green was im]tatient to see whether all that had been taken away was returned, and U]>ou examining the box found the stand, and a few small things of less consequence warit- i.ig. Several persons were sent in search of these, and most of the small things were returned. But it waa sig- nified that the thief had not brought the stand so far, and that it would be delivered to our friends as they went back ; this being confirmed by Tubourai Taniaide, they prepared to return, as nuthing would then be wanting but what might easily be supjdieil ; and after they had advanced about two miles, I met them with my party, to our mutual satisfaction, con- gratulating each other upon the re- covery of the quadrant, witn a pleasure QUADRANT. 23 proportioned to the Importance of th« event. About 8 o'clock, Mr Banks, with Tubourai Tamaide, got back to the fort : when, to his great surprise, ho found Tootahah in custody, and many of the natives in the utmost terror and distress, crowding about the gate. Me went hastily in, some of the In- dians were sullVred to fdlow him, and the scene was extremely aircctintf. Tubourai Tamaide pressing forward, ran up to Tootahah, antl catching him in his anns, they both burst into tears, and we[>t over each other, with- out being able to speak ; the other Iiulians were also in tears for their chirf, both he and they being strongly po^isessed with the notion that he was to be put to death. In this situation they continued till I entered the fort, which was about a (quarter of an hour afterwards. I was equally surprised and concerned at what had hapfiened, the cojifining Tootahah being contrary to my orders, and therefore instantly set him at liberty. Upon inciuiring into the affair, I was told, that my going into the woods with a party of men under arms, at a time when ♦ robbery had been committed, which it waa supposed I should resent in pro[)ortion to our apparent injury hy the loss, had so alarmed the natives, that in the evening they began to leave the neighbourhood of the fort, with their effects ; that a double oano« having been seen to put off from tn^ bottom of the bay by Mr Gee, the second lieutenant, who \^u3 left in command onboard the ship, and who had received orders not to suffer any canoe to go out, he sent the boatswain with a boat after her to bring her back ; that as soon as the boat catn^ up, the Indians, being alarmed, leaped into the sea and that, Tootahah being unfortunately one of the number, the boatswain took him up and brought him to the ship, suffering the rest of the people to s\nm on shore ; that ilr Gore, not sufficiently attending to the order that none of the peopte should be confined, had sent him to the fort, and Mr Hicks, the first lien* tenant, who commanded the~% receir* 24 COOK'S VOYAGES. (VOY.I. lii' ing liiin in char^o from Mr Cure, did not think himself nt lihcrty to dismiss him. The notion that we intended to put him to death had possessed him BO strongly, that he could not be persuaded to the contrary till by my orders he was led out of the fort. The people received him as they would nave done a father in the same circum- stances, and every one pressed forwurd to embrnce him. Sudden joy is com- monly liberal, without a scrupuluus ropfard to merit ; and Tootahah, in the first expansion of his heart, upon beiiif; unexpectedly restored to lilierty and life, insisted upon our reccivinp; a present of two hogs ; though, being conscious that upon this occasion we had no claim to favours, we refused them many times. Mr Banks and Dr Solandcr attended the next morning in their usual capa- city of market-men ; but very few Indians appeared, and those who came brought no provisions. Tootahah, however, sent some of his people for the canoe that had been detained, which they took away. A canoe hav- ing also been detained that belonged to Oberea, Tujiia, the person who managed her ail'airs when the Dolphin was hei-e, was sent to examine whether anything on board had been taken away ; and he was so well satisfied of the contrary, that he left the canoe where he found it, and joined us at the fort, where he spent the day, and sltipt on board the canoe at night. About noon, some fishing-boats came abreast of the tents, but would part with very little of what they had on board ; and we felt the want of cocoa- nuts and bread-fruit very severely. In the course of the day, LIr Banks walked out into the woods, that by conversing with the people he might recover their confidence and good- will. He found them civil, but they all complained of the ill-tieatment of their chief, who, they said, had been beaten and pulled by the hair. Mr Banks endeavoured to convince them that he had sufTerod no personal vio- lence, which, to the best of our know- ledge, was true ; yet, perhaps, the boatnvain had behaved with a brutality which he was afraid or nshAuiud to acknowlod^u. 'Ihechiul iiimself be- ing proliahly, upon recollection, of opinion thut wo had ill-deserved the hogs whii'h ho had left with us as a present, sent a messenger in the after- noon to demand an axe and a shirt in return ; but aa I was told that he did not intend to come down to the fort for ten days, I excused myself from giving them till I should see him, honing that his impatience might induce him to fetch them, and know- ing that absence would probably con- tinue the coolness between us, to which the first interview might put an end. The next day we wcro still more sensible of the inconvenience we had incurred by giving otfence to the peo- ple in th'^ person of their chief; for the mart, was so ill supplied that we were in ait of necessaries. Mr Banks thei and down with a quick motion. If the person to whom this was addressed accepted the chal- len^'o, he repeated the signs, and im- n!ediately each put himself into an attitude to engage. The next minute they closed, but, except in first seizing each other, it was a mere contest le of wrestlers came forward and engaged in the same manner. If it happened that neither 26 COOK'S VOYAGES. IToT, L •ii 1 \ I till' ■' ' ■' wjis throvvn, after the contest had continued about a minute, thoy parted, either by consent or the intervention of their fnonds ; and in this case each slapped his arm, as a challenge to a new engagement, eitlier with the same antagonist or some other. While the wrestlers were engaged, another party of men performed a dance, which histed also about a minute ; but neither of these parties took the least notice of each other, thoirattention l«ing wholly fixed on what they wore doing. We observed with pleasure, that the con- queror never exulted over the van- quished, and that the vanquished never repined at the snccesa of the conqueror ; the whole contest was carried on with perfect good-will and good-humour, though in the presence of at least 500 spectators, of whom some were women. The numhrr of women, indeed, was comparatively small ; none but those of rank were present ; and we had reason to believe that they would not have been spec- tators of this exercise but in compli- ment to us. This lasted about twohoure ; duriue all which time, the man who had made a way for us when we landed, kept the people at a proper distance, by striking those who ])ressed forward very severely with his stick. Upon inquiry we learned that ho was an oflBcer belonging to Tootahah, acting as master of the ceremonies. It is scarcely possible, for those who are acquainted with the athletic sports of very remote antiquity, not to remark a rude resemblance cf th.'i\i in this wrestling-match among the natives of a little island in the midst of the Pa- cific Ocean. And female readers may recollect the account given of them by Fenelon in his Telemachus, where, though the eveuts are fictitious, tho manners of the age are faithfully tran- scribed from autnors by whom they are supposed to have been tnily re- Is ted. When the wrestling was over, We were given to understand that two hogs, and a large quantity of bread- fruit, were preparing for our dinner; which, as our appetites wer<} now keen. was very agreeable intelligence. Ooi host, however, scemod to repent of his liberality ; for, instead of setting his two hogs before us, he ordered one of them to be caniotl into our boat : at first we were not sorry for this new disposition of matters, thinking that we should dine more comfortably in the boat than on shore, as the crowd woulil more easily be kept at a dis- tance ; but when we came on board, he ordered us to proceed with his hog to the ship. This was mortifying, as wo were now to row four miles while our dinner was growing cold; however, we thought fit to comply, and were at last gratified with the cheer that he had provided, of which he and Tn- bourai Tamaide had a liberal share. Our reconciliation with this man operated upon the people like a charm ; for he was no sooner known to be on board, than bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other provisions were brought to the fort in great plenty. AlTairs now went on in the usual channel ; but pork being still a scarce commodity, our master, Mr Mollincux, and Mr Green, went in the pinnace to the east- ward, on the 8th, early in the morn- ing, to see whether they could proem** any hogs or poultry in that part of thi country. They proceeded m that di- rection twenty miles ; but though they saw many hogs, and one turtle, they could not purchase either at any price. The people everywhere told them, that they all belonged to Toot- ahah, and that they could sell none of them without his perniisHion. Wi now began to think that this man ws* indeed a great prince ; for an influencti so extensive and absolute could be acquired by no other. And we after- wards found that he administered the government of this part of the island, as sovereign, for a minor whom we never saw all the time that we were upon it. When Mr Green returned from this expedition he said he had seen a tree of a size which he was afraid to relate, it being no less than sixty yards in circumference ; but Mr Banks and Dr Solander soon explained to him that it was a species of the fig, tho branches of which, bending down, 17691 NAMES BESTOWED take frcsli root in the ear^h, and thus form a congeries of trunks, which being very close to each other, and all joined by a common vegetation, might easily be mistaken for one. Though the market at the fort was now tolerably supplied, provisions were brought more slowly ; a sufficient quantity used to be purchased between sun-rise and eight o'clock, but it was now become necessary to attend the greatest part of the day. Mr Banks, therefore, fixed his little boat up be- fore the door of the fort, which was of great use as a place to trade in. Hitlierto we had purchased cocoa-nuts and bread-fniit for beads ; but the market becoming rather slack in these articles, we were now, for the tii-st time, forced to bring out our nails. One of our smallest size, which was about four inches long, procured us twenty cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit in proportion, so that in a short time our first plenty was restored. On the 9th, soou after breakfast, we received a visit from Oberea, being the first that she had made us after the loss of our quad'-ant and the unfor- tunate confinement of Tootahah ; with her came her present favourite, Oba- die, and Tupia. They brought us a hog and some bread-fruit, in return for which wo gave her r. hatchet. \>'e had now afforded our Indian friends a new and interesting object of curiosity — our forge, which, having been set up Bome time, was almost constantly at work. It was now common for them to bring [)ieces of iron, which we sup- pose they must have got from the Dol- nhin, to be made into tools of various kinds ; and as I was very desirous to gratify Ihcm, they were indulged, ex- cept when the sniilh's time was toO iirecious to be spared. Oberea, hav- ing received lier hiitchet, produced as Much old iron as would have made another, with a request that another wight be made of it ; in this, however, I could not gratify ) t, npon which she brought out a bro Ken a.\e, and de- sired it might be mended. I was glad of an opportunity to compromise the difference between ns ; her axe waa mended, and she appeared to be con- BY THE Natives % tent. They went away at night, an«l took with them the canoe, which had been a consideral)le time at tlio point, but promised to return in three days. On the 10th, I put some seeds ol melons and other plants into a .spot of ground which had been turned up for the purpose ; they had all been sealed up by the person of whom they were bought, in small bottles, witn rosin ; but none of them came up ex- cept mustard ; even the cucumbers and melons failed, and Mr Banks is of opinion that they were spoiled by the total exclusion of fresh air. This day wo learned the Inray, was dis- tinguished by a visit from some ladies whom wo had never seen before, and who introduc?d themselves vith very singular ceremonies. Mr Banks was trading in hid boat at the gate of the fort as usualf in company with Toi>i 2S COOK'S VOYAGES. I m tahah, who had that morning paid him a visit, and some other of the natives, Ijetwcen 9 and 10 o'clock, a double canoe came to the lainliiig- place, under the awning; of which sat a man and two womon. The Indians that wnre about Mr Banks made sijijns that ho should go out to meet them, which he Lasted to do ; but b}' the time he could get out of the boat, they bad advanced within ten yards of him ; tliey then stopj)ed, and made signs that he should do so too, laying down about a dozen young plantain trees, and some other small plants, lie complied, and, the people having made a lane between them, the man, who ai)peared to be a servant, brought six of them to Mr Banks by one of each at a time, passing and repassing six times, and alWays pronouncing a short sentence when heaeliveredthem. Tupia, who stood by Mr Banks, acted as his master of the ceremonies, and, receiving the branches as they were brought, laid them down in the boat. When this was done, another man brought a large bundle of cloth, which having opened, he spread piece by piece upon the ground, in the space l)etwecn Mr Banks and his visitors. There were nine pieces, and having laid three pieces one upon another, thoforemostof the women, who seemed to be the prijicipal, and who was called Oorattooa, 8tepi)ed ujwn them, and taking up her garments all around her to the waist, turned about, with great composure and deliberation, and with an air of perfect innocence and simplicity, three times. When this was done, she dropped the veil, and stepping ofT the cloth, three more pieces were laid on, and she repeated the ceremony, then step])ing off as before ; the last three were laid on, and the ceremony was repeated in the same manner the third time. Imme- diately after this the cloth was rolled up, and given to iMr Banks aa a pre- sent from tlie lady, who, with her friend, came up ai.d saluted him. He made such pre»3n ts to them both as he thought would be most accejitable, •zid after having stoyed about an hour j th»y went away. In tha evening the I [VoY.I. gentlemen at the fort had a visit from Oberea, and her favourite female at- tendant, whose name was Otheothea, an agreeable girl, whom they were the more pleased to see, because, having been some days absent, it had been reported she was either sick or dead. On the 13th, the market being over about 10 o'clock, Mr Banks walked into the woods with his gun, as he generally did, for the benefit of the shade in the heat of the day. Aa ho was returning, he met Tubourai Tumaide, near his occasional dwell- ing, and stopping to spend a little time with him, he suddenly took the gun out of Mr Banks's hand, cocked It, and holding it up in the air, drew the trigger ; fortunately for him it flashed in the pan. Mr Banks im- mediately took it from him, not a little surprised how he had acquired sufficient knowledge of a gun to dis- charge it, and reproved him with great severity for what he had done. As it was of infinite importance to keep the Indians totally ignorant of the management of fire-arms, he had taken every opportunity of intimat- ing that they could never offend him 60 highly as by even touching hia piece ; it was now proper to enforce this prohibition, and he therefore added threats to his reproof. The Indian bore all patiently ; but the moment Mr Banks crossed the river, he set off with all his family and furniture for his house at Eparre. This being quickly known from the Indians at the fort, and great incon- venience being apprehended from the displeasure of this man, who upon all occasions had been particularly use- ful, Mr Banks determined to follow him without delay, and solicit V'l return. He set out the same eveni.*^ accompanied by Mr Mollineux, and found him sitting in the middle of a large circle of people, to whom he had probably related what had hap- pened, and hi? fears of the conse- quences. He was himself the very picture of grief and dejection, and the same passions were strongly marked in the countenances of aU the people that suirounded him. 1769.] •fHE NATIVES ATTEND DIVINE SERVICE. 29 When Mr Banks and Mr Mollineux i went into the circle, one of the women expressed her trouble as Ter- a[)o had done upon another occasion, r.nd 8^ruck a shark's tooth into her head several times till it was covered with blood. Mr Bimks lost no time in putting an end to tiiis universal distress ; he assured the chief that everything which had passed should be forgotten, that there was not the I(;ast animosity remaining on one side, nor anything to be feared on the other. The chief was soon soothed into confidence and com- placency, a double canoe was ordered to be got ready, they all returned together to the fort before supper, and, as a pledge of perfect reconcilia- tion, both he and his wife slept all night in Mr Banks's tent. Their pre- sence, however, was no palladium ; for, between 11 and 12 o clock, one of the natives attem])ted to get into the fort by scaling the walls, wit\ a design, no doubt, to steal whatever he should happen to find. He was discovered by the sentinel, whohappily did not fire, and he run away much faster than any of our people could follow him. The iron and iron-tools which were in continual use at the armourer's forge that was set up within the works, were temptations to theft which none of these people oould withstand. On the 14th, which was Sunday, I directed that divine service should be performed at the fort. We were de- sirous that some of the principal Indians should be present ; but when the hour came, most of them were returned home. Mr Ranks, however, crossed the river, and brought back Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio, hoping that it would give occa.siou to some inquiries on their part, and some instruction on ours. Having seated them, he placed himself be- tween them, and during the whole service they very attentively observ- ed his behaviour, and very exactly imitated it ; standing, sitting, or kneeling, as they saw him do. They were conscious that we were employed •omewhat Mriona and impor* about tant, as appeared by their calling to the Indians without the ibrt to Iw silent ; yet when the service was over, neither of them asked any questions, nor would they attend to any attempt that was made to ex- plain what had been done. On the 14th and 16th, we had another opportunity of observing the general knowledge which these people liad of any design that was formed among them. In the night between the 13th and 14th, one of the water- casks was stolen from the outside of the fort. In the morning there was not an Indian to be seen who did not know that it was gone ; yet they ap- peared not to have been trusted, or not to have been woithy of trust; for they seemed all of them disposed to give intelligence where it might be found. Mr lianks traced it to a part of the bay where he was told it nad been put into a canoe ; but, as it was not of great consequence, he did not complete the discovery. When he returned, he was told by Tubourai Tamaide that another cask would be stolen before the morning. How he came by this knowledge it is not easy to imagine ; that he waa not a party in the design is certain, for he came with his wife and family to the place where the water-casks stood, and E lacing their beds near them, he said e would himself be a pledge for their safety, in despite of the thief. Oi this, however, we would not admit, and making them understand that a sentry would be placed to watch the casks till the morning, he removed the beds into Mr Banks's tent, where he and his family si>ent the night, making signs to tl>3 sentry when he retired, that he should keep his eyes open. In the night this intelligence appeared to be true ; about 12 o'clock the thief came, but discovering that a watch had been set, he went away without his booty. Mr Banks's confidence in Tubourai Tamaide had greatly increased since the atfair of the knife, in consequence of which he was at length exposed to temptations which neither hu integ- rity nor his honour was able to resist SP COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vor.l, \\ I k i They had w-ithstood many allure- ments, but were ut length ensnared by the fiiscinatinij cliurma of u basket of nails. These nails were much larger than any that had yet been brought into trade, and had, with f>erhap3 some degree of criminal ne^- igencc, been left in a corner of Mr Banks's tent, to which the chief hnd always free access. One of these nails Mr Banks's servant happened to ■ossossion, ujmn his having inadvertently thrown back that part of his garment under which it was concealed. !Mr Banks being told of this, and knowing that no such thing had been given him either as a pre- sent or in barter, immediately ex- ami nod the basket, and discovered that out of seven nails five were missing. He then, though not with- out great reluctance, charged him with the fact, which he immediately confessed, and, however he might sufTer, was probablj' not more hurt than his accuser. A demand was immediately made for restitution ; but this he declined, saying that the nails were at Kjiarre. However, Mr Banks appearing to be much in earnest, and using some threatening signs, he thought fit to produce one of them. He was then taken to the fort, to receive such judgment as ^bould be given against him by the general voice. After some delibera- tion, that we might not appear to think too lightly of his offence, he was told, that if he would bring the other four nails to the fort, it should be forgotten. To thb condition he agreed ; but I am sorrj' to say he did not fulfil it. Instead of fetcliing the nails, he removed with his familv before night, and took all his furni- tiire with him. As our long-boat had appeared to be leaky, I thought it nccessJiiy to examine her bottom, and to my gicat surprise, found it so much eaten by the worms, that it was necessary to five her a new one. Ko such acci- ont had happened to the Dolphin's boats, as I was informed by the ofAcers on board, and therefore it WAS a misfortune that I did not expect I feared that the pinnace also might be neai-ly in the same con- dition, but, upon examining her, I had the satisfaction to find that not a worm had touched her, though she was built of the same wood, and hnd been as much iu the water. The reason of this diflference I imagine to be that the long-boat was payed with varnish of pine, and the pinnae*! painted with white lead and oil ; the bottoms of all boats, therefore, which are sent into this country should be painted like that of the i)innace, and the ships should be supplied with a good stock, in order to give them a new coating when it should be found necessary. Having received repeated messages from Tootahah, that if we would pay hitn a visit he would acknowledge the favour by a present of four hogs, I sent Mr Hicks, my first lieutenant, to try if he could not procure the hogs upon easier terms, with orders to show him every civility in hi? power. Mr Hicks found that he was removed from Epaneto a place callt'd Tettahah, five miles farther to tha westward. He was received with great cordiality; one hog was im- mediately produced, and he was told that the other three, which were at some distance, should be brought in the morning. Mr Hicks readily con- sented to stay ; but the morning came without the hogs ; and it not being convenient to stay longer, he returned in the evening with tlie one he had got On the 25th, Tubourai Taroaido and his wife Tomio made their ap- pearance at the tent, for the first time since ho had been detected in stealing the nails. He seemed to be under some discontent and apprehen- sion, yet he did not think fit to pur- chase our countenance and good -will by restoring tlie four which he had sent avay. As Mr Banks and the other f;entlemen treated him with a coolness and reserve which did not at all tend to restore his peace or good- humour, his stay was short, and his departure abrupt. Mr Monkhouse, the surgeon, went the next moroiui! W. MR. BVNKS HAS HIS CLOTH F,S STOLEN. i769.] in order to cffbct a reconciliation, by persuading liim to bring down tbe nails ; but he could not succeed. Ou the 27th, it was determined that we should i>ay our visit to Tootahah, though we were not very coufidcnt that we should receive the hogs for our puiui). Z therefore bet out eaiiy ill the morning, with Mr Riinks and Dr Solunder, and three others, in tlni ]iinnace. He was now removed froin Ti;tl:iliah, where Mr Hicks had seen hiiu, to a ])lace called Atahourou, about six miles farther; and as we could not go above half-way thither iu the boat, it was ahiiost evening bofure we arrived. We found him in his usual state, sitting under a tree, with a grnat crowd about him We made our presents in due form, con- sisting of a yellow stutT petticoat and some other trilling articles, which were gnxciously received ; a hog was immediately ordered to be killed and dressed for 8ui)per, with a prouuse of more in the morning. However, as we were less desirous of feasting upon cur journey than of carrying back with us provisions, which would be more welcome at the fort, we procured a reprieve for the hog, and supjied uj)on the fruits of the country. As night now came on, and the place was crowded with many more than the houses and canoes would contain, tbere being Oberea, with her attend- ants, and many other travellers whom we knew, we began to look out for lodgings. Our party consisted of six. Mr Banks thought himself fortunate in being oflfered a ])lace by Oberea in her canoe, and wishing his friends a good-night, took his leave. He went to rest early, according to the custom of the country, and taking off his clothes, as was his constant practice, the nights being hot, Oberea kindly insisted upon taking them iuto her own custody, for otherwise, she said, they would certainly be stolen. Mr Banks, having such a safe guard, resigned himself to sleep with all ftnaginable tranquillity ; out waking about 11 o'clock, and wanting to get up, he searched for his clothes where ho had seen thom deiiosited by Qberea SI when he lay down to sleep, and soou perceived that they were amissing. He immediately awakened Oberea, who, starting up and hearing his complaint, ordered lights, and pre- pared in great haste to recover what ne had lost. Tootahah himself slept iA the next canoe, and being sot^n alarmed, he came to tliom, and s^ out with Oberea in search of the thief. Mr Hanks was not in a condition to go with them, for of hisanparel scare* anything was left him but nis breeches. His coat and his waistcoat, with his pistols, powder-horn, and many other things that were in the pockets, were gone. In about half-an-hour his two noble friends returned, but without having obtained any intelligence of his clothes or of the thief. At first he began to be alarmed ; his mnsket had not indeed l>een taken away, bnt he had neglected to load it. "NVher* 1 and Ur Solander had disposed of our.«i.'ives he did not know ; and thero- fort>, whatever might hajtpen, he could nut have recourse to us for assistance. He thought it best, however, to ex- ])ress neither fear nor suspicion of those about him ; and giving his mnsket to Tujaa, who had been waked in the confusion and stood by him, with a charge not to suffer it to be stolen, he l^etook himself again to rest, declaring himself jteifectly satis- fied with the pains that Tootahah and Oberea had taken to recover his things, though they had not been sui^cessful. As it cannot be sup{)osed that in such a situation his sleep was very sound, he soon after heard music, and saw lights at a little distance on shore. This was a concert or as.sembly, which they call a Heiva, a common name for eveiy public exhibition ; and aa it would necessarily Iriug many peojile together, and theAi was a chance cf my being among them with his other friends, he rose and made the best of his way towards it. He was soon led by the lights and the sound to the hut where 1 lay. with three other gentlemen of our party ; and easily distinguishing us from the rest, he made up to us more than half naked, and told us his melancholy story. We li 32 gave him sucli comfort as the unfor- tunatc generally give to each other, by telling him that wo were fellow- sufTerers. I showed him that I was yself without stockings, they having ^en stolen from under my head, though I wa'j sure I had never been asleep ; and each of my associates convinced him by his appearance tliat he had lost a jacket. We determined nevertheless to hoar out the concert, however deficient we might appear in our dross. It consisted of three drums, four flutes, and several voices. When this entertainment, which lasted about an hour, wsis over, we retired again to our sleeping places, having agreed that nothing could be done toward the recovery of our things till the morning. We rose at daybreak, according to the custom of the country. The first man that Mr Ranks saw was Tuj)ia, faithfully attending with his musket; and soon after, Oberea brought him some of her country clothes as a suc- cedaneum for his own ; so that when he came to us he made a most motley appearance, half Indian and half Eng- lish. Our party soon got together, except Dr Solander, whose quarters we aid not know, and who had not assisted at the concert. In a short time Tootahah made his appearance, and we pressed him to recover our clothes ; hut neither he nor Oberea could be persuaded to take any mea- sure for that purpose, so that we began to suspect that they had been parties in the theft. About 8 o'clock we were joined by Dr Solander, who had fallen into honester luuids, at a house about a mile distant, and had lost nothing. Having given up all hope of recover- ing our clothes, which indeed were never afterwards heard of, we spent all the morning in soliciting the ho^ which we had been promised ; but in this we liad no bettor success. We therefore, in very good humour, 3t out for the boat about 12 o'clock, with only that which we had redeemed from the butcher and the cook the night before. As we were returning to the boat, however, we were entertained with a CJOOK'S VOyAGES. i\OY.I. sight that in 8omv> measure compen- sated for our fatigue and disappoint- ment. In our way we came to one of the few places where access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and consi'tjuently a high surf breaks upon the shore. A more dreadful one in- deed I had seldom seen. It was im- Eossible for any Enrojiean boat to ave lived in it , and if the best swimmer in Eurojie had by any acci- dent been expo-sed to its fury, I am confident that he would not have been able to preserve himself from drown- ing, especially as the shore was covered with pebbles and large stones. Yet in the midst of these breakers were ten or twelve Indians swimming for their amusement. Whenever a surf broke near them they dived un'der it, and, to all appearance with infinite facility, rose again on the other side. This diversion was greatly improved by the stem of an old canoe, which they happened to find upon the spot. They took this before them, and swam out with it as far as the outermost breach ; then two or three of them, getting into it, and turning the square end to the breaking wave, were driven in towards the shore with incredible rapidity, sometimes almost to the beach ; but generally the wave broke over them before they got half way, in which case they dived, and rose on the other side with the canoe in their hands. They then swam out with it again, and were again driven back, just as our holiday youth climb the hill in Greenwich Park for the plea- sure of rolling down it. At this won- derful scene we stood gazing for more than half-an-hour, during which time none of the swimmers attempted to come on shore, but seemed to enjoy their sjiort in the highest degree. We then proceeded on our journey, and late in the evening got back to the fort. Among other Indians that had visited us, there were some from a neighbouring island which they called Eimeo or Imao, the same to which Captain Wallis had given the name of the Duke of York's Island; and they gave us an account of no ]em 1769.] PREPARATIONS TO OBSK than two-and-twenty islands that lay in the neiplibonrhood of Otaheite. As the diiy of observation now ap- proached, I det«;niiiiied, in conse- quence of some hints wliich had been given rae by Lord Morton, to send out two parties to observe the transit from other situations, hoping that if wc shonld fail at Otaheite, they might have better success. We were, there- f(jre, now busily eni{)loyed in prepar- in.jT our instruments, and instructing such gentlemen in the use of tliem as I intended to sevd out. On Thurs- day the Ist of June, the Saturday following being the d.iy of the transit, I desjiatohed ilr Gore in the long- boat to Imao, with Mr Monkhouse and Mr Sporing, a gentleman belong- ing to Mr Banks, Mr Green having furnished them with proper iustru- ?iients. Mr Banks himself thought fit to go upon this expedition ; and several natives, particularly Tubourai Tamaide and Tomio, were also of the party. Verj' early on the Friday morning, I sent Mr Hicks, with Mr Clerk and Mr Petei-sgill, the master's mates, and Mr Saunders, one of the midshipmen, in the pinnace to the eastward, with orders to fix on some convenient spot at a distance from our principal observatory, where they also might employ the instruments with which they had been furnished for the same purpose. The long-boat not having been got ready till Thursday in the afternoon, though all possible expedition was used to fit her out, the people on board, after having rowed most part of the night, brought her to a gi'ap- ]iliiig ju.st under the land of Imao. Soon after daybreak they saw an Indian canoe, which they hailed, and the people on board showed them an iidet through the reef, into which they pulled, ami soon fixed upon a coral rock, which rose out of the water about 150 yards from the .shore, as a proper situation for their obser- vatory. It was about eighty yards long and twenty broad, and in the ndddlo of it was a bed of white sand, large enough for the tents to stand QpoQ. Mr Grore and his assistants RVE TRANSIT OF VRNUS. .33 immediately began to set them up, and make other necessary prepara- tions fur the important business of the next da}*. While this was doing, Mr Bunks, with the Indians of Ota- heite, unil the people whom they had met in the canoe, went ashore upon the main i.sland to buy provisions; of which he procured a sullicient .sujiply before nigat. When ho re- turned to the rock he found the ob- servatory in order, and the telescopes all fixed and tried. The evening was very fine, yet their solicitude did not permit them to take much rest in the night; one or other of them was up every half- hour, who satisfied the impatience of the rest by reporting the changes of the sky— now encour- aging their hope by telling them that it was clear, and now alarming their fears by an account that it was hazy. At daybreak they got up, and had the satisfaction to see the sun rise without a cloud. Mr Banks then wishing the observers, Mr Gore and Mr Monkhouse, success, repaired again to the island, that he ndght examine its produce and get a fresh supply of provisions. He began by tradfing with the natives, for which purpose he took his station under a tree ; and to keep them from pressing upon him in a crowd, he drew a circle round him, which he suffered none of them to enter. About 8 o'clock ho saw two canoes coming towards the place, and was given to understand by the people about him that they belonged to Tarrao, the king of the island, who was coming to make him a visit. As soon as the canoes came near the shore, the people made a lane from the beach to the trading-place, and his majesty landed with his sister, whose name was Nuna. As they ad- vanced towards the tree wliere Mr Banks stood, he went out to meet them, and, with great formality, in- troduced them into the circle from which the other natives had been excluded. As it is the custom of these people to sit during all their conferences, Mr Banks nn wrapped a kind of turban of Indian cloth, which he wore npon his head instead H *i ) :] n ii\ I'll %i 84 COOK'S VOYAOKS. (VOT. I. I if. hat, and spreading ft npon the ground, tlwy all sat down upon it together. The royal jtrcsb/it was then brought, which consisted of a hog and a dog, some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other articles of the like kind. Mr Banks then despatched a canoe to the observatory for his present, and the messengers soon returned with an ad/e, a shirt, and some beails, whicli were presented to his majesty, and received with great satisfaction. By this time Tubourai Tamaido and Tomio joined them from the obser- ratory. Tomio said that she was re- lated to Tan-ao, and brought him a present of a long nail, at the same time complimenting Nuna with a sh ii t. The first internal contact of the planet with the sun being over, Mr Banks returned to the observatory, taking Tarrao, Nuna, and some of their principal attendants, among whom were three very handsome young women, with him. He showed them the planet upon the sun, and endeavoured to make them under- stand that he and his companions had come from their own country on purpose to see it. Soon after Jlr Banks returned with them to tlie island, where he speut the rest of tlie day in examining its produce, which he found to be much the same witli that of Otaheite. The people whom he saw there also exactly resembled the inhabitants of that island, and many of them were persons whom he had seen upon it; so that all those whom he had dealt with knew of what his trading articles consisted, Kod the value they bore. The next morning, having struck the tents, they set out on their return, and errived at the fort Viefore night. The observation was niaile with equal success by the persons whom I had sent to the eastward, and at the fort. There not being a cloud in the sky from the rising to the setting of the sun, the whole passage of the planet Venus over the sun's disc was observed with gi'cat advantage by Mr Green, Dr Solauder, and myself. Mr Green's telescope and mine were of l^e same m?wnifying power, but that a O a o o u of Dr Solander'a was greater. We all saw an atmosphere or dusky cloud round the body of the planet, which very much disturbed the times of contact, especially of the internal ones; and we differed from each other in our accounts of the times of the contacts much more than might have been expected. According to Mr Green, Ha. Mia. 8«c. The first external con- tact, or tirst apj>ear- ance of Venus on the Sun, was . . 9 25 42 The first internal con- tact, or total emer- sion, was . . 9 44 4 The second internal con- tact, or beginning of the emersion, . . 3 14 8 The second external con- tact, or total enior- sion, . . . 3 32 10 The latitude of the observatory was found to be 17° ?'^' lo", and the longitude 149° 32' 30' W. of Green- wich. But if we had reason to congratu- late ourselves upon the success of our observation, we had scarce less cause to regret the diligence witli which that time had been improved by some of our people to another purpose. Wliile the attention of the ofhcers was engrossed by the transit of Venus, some of tho ship's company broke into one of the store-rooms and stole a quantity of spike nails, amounting to no less than one hundredweight. This was a matter of public and seri- ous concern; for these nails, if cir- culated by the people among the Indians, would do us irreparable in- jury, by reducing the value of iron, our staple commodity. One of the thieves was detected, but only seven nails were found in his custody, lie was punished with two dozen lashes, but would impeach none of his ac- com]>]ices. On the 5th we kept his Majesty's birthday; for, though it is the 4tlt, we were unwilling to celebrate it during the absence of the two parties who had been sent out to obsen'e the rvoT. I, ber. We all usky cloud anet, which e times of le internal I eacli other incs of the might have ing to Mr Mtn. 8«c. 25 42 U i • »-< a o 14 8 h o o J2 10 j '^ i^.itory was , and the of Green- congratu- cess of our less cause ith which !?d hy some purpose, he officers : of Venuis, my broke and stole imonnting red weight. ! and seri- es, if cir- nong the arable in- e of iron, 'ne of the 'nly seven ody. He in lashes, if his ac- 1769.1 transit. We had several of the Indian chiefs at our entertainment, who drank his Majesty's health by the name of '* Kiliiargo," which was the nearest imitation tliey could produce of King George. About this time died an old woman of some rank, who was related to Toiiiio, which gave us an opportunity to see how they disposed of the body, and confirmed us in our opinion that thf'se people, contrary to the present custom of all other nations now known, never bury their dead. In the middle of a small square, neatly railed in with bamboo, the awning of a canoe was raise* 1 upon two posts, and under this the body was deposited upon such a frame as has before been described. It was covered with fine cloth, and near it was placed bread- fruit, fish, and other provisions. We supposed that the food was placed there for the spirit of the deceased, and consequently that these Indians had some confused notion of a separate state ; but upon our applying for fur- ther information to Tubourai Tamaide, he told us that the food was placed there as an oifering to their gods. They do not, however, suppose that the gods eat, any more than the Jews supposed that Jehovah could dwell in a house. The offering is made here upon the same princij)le as the temple was built at Jerusalem — as an exprea- sion of reverence and gratitude, and a solicitation of the more immediate presence of the Deity. In the front of the area was a kind of stile, where the relations of the deceased stood to pay the tribute of their sorrow ; and under the awning were innumerable small pieces of cloth, on which the tears and blood of the mourners had been shed ; for in their paroxysms of grief it is a universal custom to wound themselves with the shark's tooth. Within a few yards two occasional houses were set up, in one of which some relations of the deceased con- stantly resided, and in the other the chief mourner — who is always a man. Mid who keeps there a very singular dress, in which a ceremony is per- fcinnod tbttt will be described iu its TREATMENT OF THE DEAD. 85 turn. Near the place where tile dead are thus set up to rot, the bones are afterwanls buned. Having observed that brcad-frnit had for some days been bnmght in less quantities than usual, we inquired the reason, and were told, that there being a great show of fruit upon the trees, they had been thinned all at once, in order to make a kind of sour ]»aste, which the natives call "raahie," and which, in consequence of having undergone a fermentation, will keep a considerable time, and supply them with food when no ripe fruit is to be had. On the 10th, the ceremoiiy was to be performed in honour of the old woman whose sepulchral tabernacle has been described, by the chief mourner ; and Mr Banks had so great a curiosity to see all the mysteries of the solemnity, that he detei-niined to take a irt in it, being told that he could be present upon no other con- dition. In the evening, therefore, he repaired to the place where the body lay, and was received by the daugh- ter of the deceased, and several other persons, among whom was a boy about fourteen years old, who were to assist in the ceremony. Tubonrai Tamaide was to be the principal mourner ; and his dress was extremely fantastical, though not unbecoming. Mr Banks was stripped of his Euro- pean clothes, and, a small piece of cloth being tied round his mi(ldle, his body was smeared with charcoal and water, as low as the shoulders, till it was as black as that of a Negro. The same operation was performed upon several others, among Avhom were some women, who were reduced to a state as near to nakedness as him- self; the boy waa blacked all over, and then the procession set forward. Tubourai Tamaide uttered something, which was supposed to be a prayer, near the body, and did the same when he came up to his own house. When this was done, the procession was con- tinued towards the fort, pennisaion having been obtained to approadli it upon this occasion. It is tne castom of the Indians to fly from these pro* 30 COOK'S VOYAGES. [YOT.l. I k i J cessions with the utmost precipitation, to that 08 suoii as those who were about tliu fort saw it nt a distance, they hid themselves in the woods. It proceeded from tite furt along the shore, and put to flif^ht anotlier body of Indians, consisting of more than 100, every one hiding himself under the fust shelter tliat he could find. It then crossed the river, and entered the woods, ])assing several houses, all which were deserted, and not a single Indian could be seen during the rest of the procession, which continued more than half-an- hour. The ofllf-e that Mr Banks ])er« formed wascalleil that of the Nineveh, of which there were two besides him- self ; and the natives having all dis- appeared, they came to the chief mourner, and said, "Imitata" — "There are no i>eople," after which the company was dismissed to wash tliemselves in the river, and put on their customary apparel. On the 12th, complaint being made to me by some of the natives that two of the seamen had taken from them several bows and arrows, and some strings of plaited hair, I examined the matter, and finding the charge well supported, I ]mnishcd each of the criminals with two dozen lashes. Their bows and arrows have not been mentioned before, nor were they often brought down to the fort. This day, however, Tubourai Tamaide brought down his, in consequence of a challenge which he had received from Mr Gore. The chief supposed it was to try who could send the arrow farthest; Mr Gore, who best could hit a mark ; and as Jlr Gore did not value himself upon •hooting to a great distance, nor the chief upou hitting a mark, there was no trial of skill between them. Tu- bourai Tamaide, however, to show us what he could do, drew his bow, and sent an arrow, none of which are feathered, 274 yards, which is something more than a seventh, and something less than a sixth part of a mile. Their manner of shooting is somewhat singular ; they kneel down, and, the moment the arrow is dis- ohaT«;ed, drop the bow. Mr Banks, in his morning walk this day, met a number of the natives, whom, upon inquiry, he found to be travelling nuisicians ; and having learned where tliey were to be at night, we all rejtaired to the place. The band consisted of two flutes and three drums, and we found a great number of people assembled upon the occasion. The drummers accom- panied the music with their voices, and, to our great surprise, we dis- covered that wo were generally the subject of the song. We did not ex- pect to have found among the un- civilised inhabitants of this seques- tered spot, a character which has been the subject of such praise and veneration where genius and know- ledge have been most conspicuous ; yet these were the bards or minstrel* of Otaheite. Their song was unpre- meditated, and accompanied with music ; they were continually going about from place to place, and they were rewarded by the master of the house, and the audience, with such things as one wanted and the other could spare. On the 1 1th, wo were brought into new difficulties and inconvenience by another robbery at the fort. In the middle of the night, one of the na- tives contrived to steal an iron coal- rake that was made use of for the oven. It happened to be set up against the inside of the wall, so that the top of the handle was visible from without ; and we were informed that the thief, who had been seen lurking there in the evening, came secretly about three o'clock m the morning, and, watching his opportunity when the sentinel's back was turned, very dexteiously laid hold of it with a long crooked stick, and drew it over the wall. I tliought it of some conse- Siience, if possible, to put an end to lese practices at once, by doing soinethmg that should make i^ the common interest of the natives them- selves to prevent them. 1 had given strict orders that they should not be fired upon, even when detected in these attempts, for which I had many reasons. The common sentinek were : i MN* [YOY.I. ning walk lie natives, bund to be 1(1 having to be at tlie place. flutes and id a great i upon the :s accom- eir voices, e, we dio- erally the lid not ex- g tlie un- is seques- vhich has praise and md know- ispicuoos ; ininstrek vas unpre- lied with ally going and they iter of the with such the other ought into unience by t. In the of the na- iron coal- 3f for the be set up .11, so that sible from rnied that in lurking e secretly morning, oity when "ned, very it with a w it over >me conse- an end to by doing ke i^ the ves them- liad given Id not be tected in had many inek w«re 1769.] SEIZURE OF FISHING CANOES. by no means fit to be entrusted with a power of life and death, to be ex- erlt'd whenever they should think lit, and 1 hail already experienced that they wt'ie ready to take away the lives that were in their power upon the slightest occasion ; neither, in- deed, did I think that the thefts which tlit'se people committed against us, were, in them, crimes worthy of death. That thieves are hanged in England, I thought no reason why they should be shot in Otaheite, because, with resiiect to the natives, it would have been an execution by a law ex post facto. They had no such law among themselves, and it did not ap- pear to me that we had any right to make such a law for them. That they should abstain from theft, or be pun- isheil with death, was not one of the conditions under which they claimed 1 I A: advantages of civil society, as it is among us ; and I was not willing to expose them to fire-arms loaded with shot, neither could I perfectly approve of firing only with powder. At first, indeed, the noise and the smoke would alarm tliem, but when they found that no mischief followed, they would be led to despise the weapons themselves, and proceed to insults which would make it necessary to put them to the test, and from which they would be deterred by the very sight of a gun, if it was never used but with elfect. At this time, an accident furnished me with what I thought a happy ex- pedient. It happened that above twenty of their sailing canoes were just come in with a supply of fish. Upon these I immediately seized, and, bringing tlieni into the river behind the fort, gave public notice that ex- cept the rake, and all the rest of the things which from time to time had been stolen, were returned, the canoes should be burned. This menace I ventured to publish, though I had no design to put it into execution, mak- ing no doubt but that it was well known in whose possession the stolen goods were, and that, as restitution was thus made a common cause, they would all of them in a short time Iw 87 brought back. A list of the things was made out, consisting principally of the rake, the musket which had beeii taken from the marine when the Indian was shot, the pistols which Mr Banks lost with his clothes at Ata* hourou, a sword belonging to one of the petty otliccrs, and the water cask. About noon the rake was restored, and great solicitation was made for the release of the canoes ; but I still insisted upon my original condition. The next day came, and nothing further was restored, at which I was much surprised, for the people were in the utmost distress for the fish, which in a short time would be spoilt; I was, therefore, reduced to a dis- agreeable situation, either of releasing the canoes, contrary to what I had solemnly and publicly declared, or detaining them, to the great injury of those who !were innocent, Avithout answering any good jjurpose to our- selves. As a tenii)orary expedient I permitted them to take the fish, bat still detained the canoes. This very license, however, was productive of new confusion and injury ; for, it not being easy at once to distinguish to what particular person the several lots of fish belonged, the canoes were plundered, under favour of this cir- cumstance, by those who had no right to any part of their car^o. Most piess- ing instances were still made that the canoes might be restored ; and I, hav- ing now the greatest reason to believe either that the things for which I de- tained them were not in the island, or that those who suflered by their detention had not sufficient influ- ence over the thieves to prevail upon them to relinquish their booty, determined at length to give them up, not a little mortified at the bad suc- cess of my project. Another accident also about this time was, notwithstanding all our caution, very near embroiling us with the Indians. I sent the boat on shore, with an officer, to get ballast for the ship ; and, not immediately finding stones convenient for the purpose, he began to pull down some part of ui enclosure where they deposited the ti ■^:-i f ! 38 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VOT. «. i I i ♦ '" bones of their dead. This the I ndiaus violeDtly ojiposcd, and a mes.sentfer came down to tlie tents to acquaint the oiCcors that they wouhl not BatFur it. "^Ir bauks imiuediatelv repaired to the place, and an aniicable end \va.s soon put to the dispute, by Hendiu<{ the boat's crew to the river, where Btunes enough were to be gatliered without a possibility of giving oiFenco. It is v<^ry n-niaikable, tlmt th(!se In- dians appeared to be much mure jeal- ous of what was done to the dead than the living. This was che only measure in which they ventured to oppose us, and tlie only insult that was otfered to any individual among us was upon a similar occasion. Mr Monkliouse hivppening one day to pull a flower from a tree which grew in one of their sepulchral enclosures, an In- dian, wiiose jealousy had probably been upun the watch, came suddenly behind him, and struck him. Mr Monkhouse laid hold of him, but ho was instantly rescued by two more, who took hold of Mr Monkhouse 's hair and forced him to quit his hold of their companion, and then ran away without offering him iuiy fuither violence. In the evening of the 19th, while the canoes were still detained, we re* ceived a visit from Oberea, which sur- prised us not a little, as she brought with her none of the things that had been stolen, and knew that she was si^peuted of having some of them in her custody. She said, indeed, that her favourite Obadde, whom she had b^ten and dismissed, had taken them away ; but she seemed conscious that sh^ bad no right to be believed. She diacoyered the strongest signs of fear, yet she surmoonted it with astonish- ing resolution ; and was very pressing to sleep with her attendants in Mr Banks's tent. In this, however, she was not gratified ; the aifair of the jacket was too recent, and -the tent was, besides, filled witli other people. Kobody else seemed willing to enter- tain her; and she therefore, with it appearance of mortification and appointment, spent the night in oftno* The next morning early, she returned to the fort, with her canoe and everything that it con* tained, putting herself wholly into our ])ower, with sometliing like great- ness of mind, which excited our won- der and admiration. As the most eifcctual means to bring about a recon- ciliation, she iiresented us with a hog, and several otner things, among which was a dog. We had learned that these animals were esteemed by the Indians as mure delicate food than their pork ; and upun this occasion we determined to try the experiment. The dog, which was very fat, we con- signt'd over to Tiijiia, who undertook to j^erfutm the duublu oiUcu of butcher and cook. He killed him by holding his hands close over his mouth and nose, an operation which continued above a quarter of an hour. While this was doing, a hole was made in the ground about a foot deef>, in which a tire was kindled, and some small stones placed in layers alternately with the wood to iieat ; the dog was then singed by holding him over the hre, and, by scraping him with a shell, the hair taken oif as clean as it he had been scalded in hot water. He was then cut up with the sami instrument, and his entrails, l>eing taken out, were sent to the sea, where, being carefully washed, they were put into cocoa-nut shells, with what blood had come from the body. W^hen the hole was sulliciently heated, the fire was taken out, and some of the stones, which were not so hot as to discolour anything that they touched, being piacevi at the bottom, were covered with green leaves. The dog, with the entrails, was then placed upon the leaves, and other leaves being laid upon them, the whole was covered with the rest of the hot stones, and the mouth of the hole close stopped with mould. In somewhat less than four horn's it was again opened, and the dog taken out excellently baked ; and we all agreed that he had mad& a very good dish. The dogs which are here bred to be eaten, taste no animal food, but are kept wholly upon bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, yams, an^ other vegetables of the like kind. Al) •immtmmmnmn '*'<« [VOT. «. with bir ; it con- oily into ke picat- uur won* he moat t a recoil' th a hog, ng whicn lied tliat hy the >od than occasion >eriinent we con- lulertook imtcher f holding )uth auu ontiiiued While de in the n which ne sniull teruately dog wa« over the with a ean aa U >t water. he 8am« 8, lieing i, where, were put lat blood riieu tlie the fire B stones, iiscolour [, beiiij' covered g, with )d upon ling laid covered lea, and stopped iss than ed, and baked; 1 mad« which iste no lyupon a, an^ id. Ai; 1760.] the llosli and fish eaten by the inha- oiUints is (lrc8«ed in the s:»nio wny. On the 21 st, we wore visited at the furt by a chief, callod Oanio, wliom wo had never seen before, ami who uiw treated by the natives with nn- • oTiiinon respect. He brouglit with liini a boy ubout seven years old, and .1 young wotiKin about sixteen ; the boy was carried upon a man's t»ack, which wo considered as n j^icce ai having no child but Odtou, Tenidiri, the son of his next brother Oamo, Wius heir to the soverei^jnty. It will, ]ierhaps, seem strange that a boy should be sovereign during the life of his father ; but, according to the custom of the coun« try, a child succeeds to a father's title ami authority as soon as it is born. A regent is then elected, and the father of tho new sovereign is generally con- tinued in his autliority, under that title, till his child is of age ; but, at tins timo, tho choice had fallen upon Tootahah, the uncle, in consc(juenee of his having distinguished himself in a war. Oamo asked many ques- tions concerning England and its in- habitants, by which he ap[)eared to have great shrewdness and under* standing. On Monday tho 26th, about 8 o'clock in the morning, I set out in the pin- rao'. accompanied by Mr Banks, to make the circuit of the island, with a view to sketch out the coast and harbours. We took our route to the eastward, and about eight in the fore- noon wo went on shore, in a district called Oahounue, whicli is governed by Ahio, a young chief, whom we had often seen at the tents, and who fav- oured us with his comjiany to break- fast. Here also we found two other natives of our old acquaintance, Titu- boalo and Hoona, who carried us to their houses, near which we .saw the body of the old woman at whose funeral rites Mr Banks had assisted, which had been removed hither from the spot where it was first deposited —this jilace having descended from her by inheritance to Hoona, and it being necessary on that account that it should lie here. We then procewied on foot, the boat attending wthin call, to the harbour in which Mr Bougain* ii .' ut in the last It is covered by reefs of rocks, which form several good harbours, mth safe anchorage}, in six- teen, eie^hteen, twenty, and twenty- four Ltlioms of water, with other con- veniences. As we had not yet got into our enemy's country, we de*^sr- mined to sleep on shore. We landed, and, though we found but few houses, wt MW several double canoes, whose [ VoT. !. owners were wull known to us, and who provided ns with supper and lodging, of whifli Mr Hanks was in- dcl.tcd for his share to O.nattona, the lady who had ]taid him her corjpli- ments in so singular a manner '*t th« fort. In the morning we looked about the country, and found it to be a marshy flat, about two miles over, across which the nati. os haul their canoes to the corres]>onding bay on the other side. We then ]irepared to continue our route for what Tituboalo called the otlicr kingdom. He said that the name of it was Tiarriibou, or Otaheite Ete ; and that of the chief who go- verned it, Waheatua. Upon this oc- casion, also, we learned that the name of the peninsula where we had taken our station was Opoureonu, or Ota- heite Nue. Our new associs-te seemed to be now in better spirits than he had been the day before. The people in Tiarrabou would not kill us, he said ; but he assured us that we should be able to procure no victuals among them : and indeed we had seen no broad-fruit since we set out. After rowing a few miles, we landed in a district which was the dominion of a chief called Maraitata, "the bury- ing-place of men," whose father's name was Pahairedo, *' tlio stealer of boats." Though these names seemed to favour the account that had been given by Tituboalo, we soon found that it was not true. Both the father and the son received us with the greatest, civility, gave us provisions, and, .after some delay, sold us a very laige hog for a hatchet. A crowd soon gatliered round us, but we saw only two jieople that we knew ; neither did we observe a single bead or or- nament among them that had come from our ship, though we saw several thi'igs which had been brought from Europe. In one of the houses lay two 12-pound shot, one of which was marked with the broad aiTow of Eng. land, though the people said they hwi them from the ships that lay in Bou- gainville's harbour. We proceeded on foot till we came to the district which was immediately a: (■ l.'l \\ I lil Ctl \v| \vl nj s\ sa 'ft. [VOT.I. US, and )per and was in- tona, the corjpli- ' ^t the ibout the marshy 17'';^. 1 CIHCUMNAVIGATION OF THE ISLAND. il nil. it r tlic ;:;',) vernnicnt of the princi|»al ( liicf, or K'in;^', of the peuinsulfi, Wa- ,."itna, Walie;itna had a son, but ether, .'K'fonlini^ to the custom of ( )[.oiirt!oim, he administered the w go- vt'iinnent as lii^lit, is uncertain. regent or in his own This district consists of a large and fertile plain watered by a river so wide that we were obni^'ed to ferry over it in a canoe ; our Indian train, however, chose to swim, and took to the water with the same facility as a pack of hounds. In tliis place we sraw no house that a]>pcart'd to be inhabited, but the ruins of many that had been very large. We proceeded along the shore, which forms a bay called Oaitipeha, ami at last found the chief sitting near some pretty canoe awnings, under which, we supposed, he and his at- tendants slept. He was a thin old man, with a very white head and beard, and had with hi n a comely woman, al)out five-antl-twenty years old, whose name was Toudidde. We had often hoard the name of this woman, and, from report and obser- vation, we had leuson to think that she was the Oberea of this peninsula. From this place — between which and the isthmns there are other harbours, formod by the reefs that lie along the shore, wheru shipping may lie in par- feet secu/ily, and from whence the land tremls SSE. and S. to the SE. part of tne island — we were accom- panied b} Tearee, the son >f Waheatua, of whor.1 we had purchased a hog. The country we pasfod through ap- peared to be more cultivated than any we had seen inother parts of the isl; nd; the brooks were everywhere banked into narrow channels with stone, and the shore had also a facing of stone, where it was washed by the sea. The houses were neither large nor numer- ous, but the canoes that were hauled sp along the shore were almost innu- merable, and superior to any that we had seen before, both in size and make. They were longer, the steri'S were higher, and the awnings were supported by pillars. At almost every point there was a sepulchral building, and there were many of them also in- land. Thoy were of the same figure as tliose in Opoureonu, Init cleaner and better kept, anel decorated with many carved boards, which were set upright, and on the top of which were various figures of birds and men. Oa one, in particular, there was the re- presentation of a cock, which w.w. painted red and yellow, to imitate the feathers of that animal; and rude images of men were, in some of them, placed one upon the head of mother. But in this i)art of the country, how- ever fertile and cultivi ted, we did not see a single bread-fruit ; the trees were entirelv bare, and tho inhabitants seemtnl to subsist principally upon nuts which arc not unlike a chestnut, and which they call Ahee. When we had walked Mil we were weary, we called up +,he boat, but both our Indians, Tituboalo ami Tna- how, were missing. They had, it seems, stayed behind at Waheatua's, expecting us to return thither, in con- sequence of a promise which had been extorted from us, and which we h»d it not in our power to fulfil. Tearee, however, and another, embarked with us, and wo proceeded till we came abreast of a small island called Otoo- areito. It being then dark, we deter- mined to land, and our Indians con- ducted us to a place where they said we might sleep. It was a deserted house, and near it was a little cove in which the boat might lie with great safety and convenience. We were, however, in want of i)rovisions, hay- ing been very sparingly supplied since we set out ; and Mr Banks immedi- ately wont into the woods to see whether any could be procured. As it was dark he met with uo people, and could find but one house that was inhabited. A bread-fruit and a half, a few ahees, and some fire, were all that it afforded ; upon which, with a duck or two and a few curlews, w« made our supper, which, if not scanty, was disagreeable by the want of bread, with which we had neglected to fur- nish ourselves, as we depended upon meeting with bread-fmit. We took up our lodging under the awning of a canoe belonging to Tearee, which followed u« t !l m 42 njoming, I'ruitless '», The next spent some time in another attempt to procure a supply of provi- sions, we proceeded round the south- east point, part of which is not covered by any reef, but lies open to the sea ; and here the hill risea directly from the shore. At the southernmost part of the island the shore is again covered by a reef, which fonns a good harbour, and the land about it is very fertile. We made this route partly on foot and partly in tlie boat. When we had walked about three miles, we arrived at a j)lace where we saw several large canoes and a number of j)cople with them, wliom we were agreciably sur- ])ri8ed to find were of our intimate ac- quaintance. Here, with much diffi- culty, we procured some cocoa-nuts, and then embarked, taking with us Tuahow, one of the Indiiins who had waited for us at Waheatu.Vs, and had returned tlxe night before, long after it was dark. When we came abreast of the south- east cud of the island we went ashore, by the advice of our Indian guide, who told us that the country was rich and good. The chief, whose name was Mathiabo, soon came down to us, but seemed to be a total stranger both to us and to our tiado. His subjects, however, brought us i)lenty of cocoa- nnta and about twenty bread-fruit. The bread-fruit we bought at a very dear rate, but his excellency sold us a )>ig for a ghujs bottle, which he pre- itrred to everything else that we could give him. We found in his posses- sion a goose and a turkey-cock, which, we were informed, had been left upon the island by the Dolphin ; they were both enormously fat, and so tame that they fo'' wed the Indians, who were fond ot them to excess, wherever they went. In a long house in this neighbour- hood we saw \rh. > was altogether new to us. At one end of it, fastened to • semicircular board, hung fifteen hnman jawbones; they appeared to be fresh, and there was not one of them that wanted a single tooth. A fight so extraordinary strongly excited oar curiosity, and we mode many in* COOK'S VOyAGES. [Vov.I. after having (juirics about it ; bnt at this time could get no information, for the people either could not or would not under- stand us. When we lett this place, the chief, Matli.abo, desired leave to accompany us, which was readily granted. He continued with us the remainder ol the day, and proved very useful by piloting us over the shoals. In the evening we opened the bay on the north-wtst side of the island, which answere>l to that on the south-east, so as at the istlinius, or carrying-place, almost to intersect the island, as I have observed before ; ai^d when we had coasted about two-thirds of it we determined to go on shore for the night. We s;iw a large house at some distance, which, Mathiabo informed us, belonged to one of his friends ; and soon after several canoes came ofl to meet us, having on board some very handsome women, who, by their behaviour, seemed to have been sent to entice us on shore. As we had be- fore lesolved to take up our residence here for the night, little invitation was necessary. We found that the house belonged to the chief of the district, whose name was Wiverou ; he received us in a very friendly man- ner, and ordered his people to assist us in dressing our provision, of which wo had now got a tolerable stock. When our supper wna ready, we were conduct "1 into that part of the house where Wiverou wrs sitting in order to eat it. Mathiabo supped with us, and Wiverou calling for his sapper at the same time, we ate our meal very soci- ably, and with great good humour. When it was over we began to inquire where we were to sleep, and a part of the house was shown us, of which we were told we might take possession for that purpose. We then sent for our cloaks, and Mr Banks began to undress, as his custom was ; and, with a precaution which he had been taught by the loss of the jackets at Atahourou, sent his clothes aboard the boat, pro- posing to cover himself with a piece of Indian cloth. When Mathiabo perceived what was doing, he also pre- tended to want a douk ; and, m he had I JL [Vor. I. uie could I)eoplo uuder- 1760.] OTHER CASES OF THEFT. behaved very well, aud doue us some Bervice, a oloiik was ordered for him. We lay down, and obser . ed that Ma- tliiabo was not with us ; Out we sup- posed tliat he was gone to bathe, as the Indians always do before they sleep. We had not waited long, howevei, when an Indian, who was a stranger to us, came and told Mr lianks that the cloak and Mathiabo had disappeared together. This man had oj far gained our confidence that we did not at first believe the report ; l>ut it being soon after confirmed by Tiiahow, our own Indian, we knew no time was to bo lost. As it was impossible for us to pur- sue the thief with any hope of success, Tithout the assistance of the i>eople aiout us, Mr Banks started up, aud telling our case, required them to Ticover the cioak ; and to enforce this requisition, showed one of his pocket- pistols, which he always kept about him. Upon the sight of the pistol, the whole company took the alarm, aud, instead of assisting to catch the thief, or recover what had been stolen, l-cgan with great jjrecipitation to leave the place ; one of them, how- ever, was seized, upon which he im- mediately olfered to direct the chase. I set out therefore with Mr Banks, and though we ran all the way, the alarm had got before us, for in about ten minutes we met a man bringing back the cloak, which the thief had rel.\-jqit;(jhed in great terror ; and as \v : did rot then think fit to continue t :>\ir3uit, he made hla escape. vVh^B '•; returned, we found the houssc n which there had been be- tween 200 and 300 people, entirely deseited. It being, however, soon known that we had no resentment against anyl ly but Mathiabo, the chief, Wiverou, our host, with his wife and many others, returned and took up their lodgings with us for the night. In this plao^, however, we were destined to more confusion ad trouble ; for about 5 o'clock in uhe aaoiniug our sentry alarmed us with an account that the boat was miasing. He had seen her, he said, •bou^ )u|]f«aii*hoiir befor«^ at her grappling, which was not above «3 fifty yards from the shore ; but, upon hearing the sound of oars, he nad looked out again, and could see nothing of her. At this account we started u]» greatly alarmed, and ran to the water-side. The morning was clear aud star-light, so that we could see to a considerable distance, but there was no ajipearance of the boat. Oui situation was now such as might justify the most terrifying apprehen- siuns ; as it was a dead calm, and we could not therefore sujqjose her to have broken from her grappling, we had great reason to fear that th« Indians had attacked her, aud, find« lug the people asleep, had succeeded in their enterprise. We were but four, with only one musket and two pocket-pistols, without a spare ball or charge of powder for either. In this state of anxiety and distress we remained a considerable time, ex- pecting the Indians every moment to improve their advantage — when to our unspeakable satisfaction, we saw the boat return, which had been driven from her grappling by the tide ; a circumstance to which, in our confusion and surprise, we did not advert. As soon as the boat re- turned, we got oar breakfast, and were impatient to leave the place, lest some other rexatious accident should befall as. It is situated ou the north side of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula, or division, of the island, and at the distance of about live miles south-east from the isthmus, having a large and commod* ious harbour, inferior to none in the island, about wlxich the land is very rich in produce. Notwithstanding we had little communication with this division, the inhabitants every- where received us in a friendly man- ner ; we found the whole of it fertile and populous, and, to all appearance, in a more flourishing state than Opourconu, though it is not above one-fourth part as large. The next district in which we landed, was the last in Tiarrabou, and governed by a chief, whose name we understood to be Ou^oe. Oiupt m a COOli'S VOYAGEJi. [tot. I i i ? : fff. was buildhtg a house, and being therefore very desirous of procuring a hatchet, be would have been glad to have purchased one with anything that ho had in his possession ; it haj»pone(l, however, rather unfortun- ately for him and us, that we had not one hatchet left in the boat. We offered to trade wiih nails, but he would not i)art with anything in ex- change for them. We therefore re- embarked, and put off our boat ; but the chief being unwilling to relin- quish all hope of obtaiiiing some- tning from us that would be of use to him, embarked in a canoe, with his wife Whanno-ouda, and followed us. After some time, we took them into the boat, and when we i al rowed about a league, they desirei ild put ashore. Wo immediate. im- plied with liis request, and luund some of his peojile, who had brout^ht down a very laige hog. We were as unwilling to lose the hog, a."* the chief was to part with us, and it was in- deed worth the b(!st axe we had in the ship ; we therefore hit upon an expedient, and told him that if he would bring his hog to the fort at Matavai — the Indian name for Port Royal Bay — he should have a large axe and a nail into the bargain for his trouble. To this proposal, after having consulted with his wife, he agreed, and gave us a large piece of his country -cloth as a pledge that he would perform his agreement, which, however, he never did. At this place we saw a very singu- lar curiosity. It was the figure of a man, constructed of b;isket-work, rudely made, but not ill designed ; it was something more than seven feet high, and rather too bulky in proportion to its height. The wicker skeleton was completely covered with feathers, which were white where the skin was to appear, and black in the parts which it is their custom to paint or stain, and upon the head where there was to be a representation of hair. Upon the head also were four protuberances, three in front and one behind, which we should have called horns, but which the InJiaus dignified with the name ol "Tate Ete^'— little men. The image was culled Manioc, and was said to l>e the only one of the kind in Ota- heite. They attempted to give us an explanation of its use and design, but we had not then acquired enough of their language to understand them. We learned, however, afterwards, that it was a representation of Mauwe, one of their Eatuas, or gods of the second class. After having settled our affairs with Omoe, we proceeded on our return, and soon reached Opoureonu, the north-west peninsula. After rowing a few miles, we went on shore again, but the only thing we saw worth notice, was a repository for the dead, uncommonly decorated. The pave- ment was extremely neat, and upon it was raised a pyramid, about five feet high, which was entirely covered with the fruits of two plants peculiar to the country. Near the pyramid was a small image of stone, of very rudo workmanship, and the first in- stance of carving in stone that we had seen among these people. They appeared to set a high v %lue upon it, for it was covered from t'l e weather by a shed that had been erect "id on purpose. We p oceeded in the boat, and passed through the only harbour, on the south side of Opoureonu, that is fit for shipping. It is situated about five miles to the westward of tho isthmus, between two small islands that lie near the shore, about a mile distant from each other ; and affords Sjood anchorage in eleven and twelve athoms water. We were now not far from the district called Paparra, which belonged to our friends Oamo and Oberea, where we proposed to sleep. We went on shore about an hour before night, and found that they were both absent, having left their habitations to pay us a visit at Matavai. This, however did not alter our purpose; we took up our quarters at the house of Oberea, which, though small, waa very neat, and at this time had no inhabitant but her father, who re- ceived us with looks that bid us wel< come. Having taken possession, wf :* ii name uf phe image said to in Ota- ive us an Nign, but snough of id them, irds, that luwe, one le second Fairs with Ir return, lonu, the er rowing J)re again, w worth the dead, 'he pave- ind upon bout five y covered I peculiar pyramid , of very first in- that we B. They 5 upon it, eather by » purpose, oat, and rbour, on I, that is ;ed about I of tlio 1 islands it a mile 1 affords i twelve w not far a, which mo and to sleep, or before ere both utations Tliis, rarpose ; le house all, was had no ivho re* us wel< uon, wc iiSfc 1769.] were willi»*g to improve the little day-Hf;ht that was left us, and there- lore walked out to a point upon which we had seen, at a distance, trees that arc here called "etoa," which gener- ally fliiitinguisli the places where these jitople bury the bones of their dead. Tlit'ir name for such burying-grounds, which are also places of worshij», is " niorai." Wv .vere soon struck with the sight of an enormous pile, which, wti wore told, was the Moral of Oamo ami Oberea, and the principal piece ol Indian architecture in the island. It was a pile of stone- work, raised jiyraniidically, upon an oblong base, or square, two hundred and sixty- seven feet long, and eighty-seven wide. It was built like the small pyramidal mounts upon which we sometimes fix the pillar of a sun-dial, where each side is a flight of steps ; the steps, however, at the sides, were hrnader than those at the ends, so that it terminated not in a square of the same figure with the base, but in a ridge, like the roof of a house. There were eleven of these steps, each of which was four feet high, so that the height of the pile was forty-four feet ; each step was formed of one course of white coral-stone, which was neatly squared and polislied ; the rest of the mass, for there was no hol- low within, consisted of round peb- bles, which, from the regularity of their figure, seemed to have been wrought. Some of the coral-stones were very large ; we measured one of them, and found it three feet and a half by two feet and a half. The foundation was of rock stones, which were also squared ; and one of them measured four feet seven inches by two feet four. Such a structure, raised without the assistance of iron- tools to shape the stones, or mortar to join them, struck us with astonish- ment. It seemed to be as compact and firm as it could have been made by any workman in Europe, except that the steps, which range along its greatest length, are not perfectly straight, but sink in a kind of hollow in the middle, so that the whole sur- ^«. from end to end, is oot a riffbt DESCRIPTIOIT OF A •'MORA!.- 45 line, but a curve. The quarry stones, as we saw no quarry in the neighbour- hood, must have been brought from a considerable distance ; and there is no method of conveyance here but by hand. The coral must ako have been fished from under the water, where, though it may be found in plenty, it lies at a consiilei-able depth, never less tlian three feet. Both the rock-stone and the coral could be squared only by tools made of the same substance, vhich must have been a work of incredible labour ; but the polishing was more easily effected by means of the sharp coral sand, which is found everywhere upon the sea-shore in great abundance. In the middle of the top stood the image of a bird, carved in wood ; and near it lay the broken one of a fish, carved in stone. The whole of this jtyramid made part of one ^^ide uf a spacious area or square, nearly of equal sides, being 360 feet by 354, which was walled in with stone, and paved with flat stones in its whole extent ; though there were growing in it, notwith« standing the pavement, several of the trees which thev call "etoa," and plantains. About a hundred yards to the west of this building, was another paved area or court, in which were several small stages raised on wooden pillars, about seven feet high, which are called by the Indians "ewattas,"^ and seem to be a kind of altars, as upon these are placed provisions of all kinds as offerings to their gods. We have since seen whole nogs placed upon them, and we found here the skulls of above fifty, besides the skulls of a gnrnt number of dogs. The principal object of ambition among these people is to have a mag- nificent Moral, and this was a strik- ing memorial of the rank and power of Oberea. It has been remarked that we did not find her invested with the same authority she exercised ^ Subsequently described in th« account of the stay at Tongataboo (Voyatre TIT.^ under the designatioD of *• whatta^]^ ^ p\ 1 J I 46 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY.i i when the DolpTiiti was at this place, and we now learned the reason of it. Our way from her house to the Moral lay along the seaside, and we observed everywhere under our feet a great number of human bones, chiefly ribs and vertebraa. Ui)on inquiring into the cause of so singular an appearance, we were told that in the then last month of Owarahew, which answered to our DeceTnber, 1768, about four or five months before our arrival, the people of Tiarrabou, the SE. penin- Rola which we had iust visited, made a descent at this place, and killed a great number of people, whose bones Were those that we saw upon the shore ; that uj)on this occasion Oberea and Oamo, who then administered the government for his son, had fled to the mountains ; and that the con- querors burned all the houses, which Wore very large, and carried away the hogs and what other animals they found. We learned also that the turkey and goose which we had seen when we were with Mathiabo, the stealer of cloaks, were among the spoils. This accounted for their be- ing found among people with whom the Dolphin had little or no commu- nication ; and npon mentioning the jawbones which we had seen hanging from a board in a long house, we were told that they also had been carried away as trophies, the people here tiarrying away the jaw-bones of their Enemies, as the Indians of North America do the scalps. After having thus gratified our curiosity, we returned to our quarters, where we passed the night in perfect security and quiet. By the next evening we arrived at Atahourou, the residence of our friend Tootahah, where, last time we passed the night under his protection, we had been obliged to leave the best part of our clothes behind us. This adventure, however, seemed now to be forgotten on both sides. Our friends received us with great pleasure, and gave us a good supper and a good lodging, where We suffered neither loss nor disturb- ance. The next day, Saturday, July the Ist, we got back to our fort at Mata- vai, having found the circuit of the island, including both peninsulas, to bo about thirty leagues. Upon our complaining of the want of bread- fruit, we were told that the produce of the last season was nearly ex- hausted, and that what was seen sprouting upon the trees would not be fit to use in less than three months. This accounted for our having been able to procure so little of it m our route. While the bread-fruit is rip- ening upon the flats, the inhabitants are supplied in some measure from the trees which they have planted upon the hills to preserve a succes- sion ; but the quantity is not suffi- cient to prevent scarcity. They live therefore upon the sour paste which they call "mahie," upon wild plan- tains, and ahee-nuts, which at this time are in perfection. How it hap- Eened that the Dolphin, which was ere at this season, found such plenty of bread-fruit upon the trees I cannot tell, except the season in which they ripen varies. At our return, our Indian friends crowded about us, and none of them came empty-handed. Though I had determined to restore to their owner the canoes which had been detained, it had not yet been done ; but I now released them as they wore applied for. Upon this occasion I could not but remark with concern that these people were capable of practising petty frauds against each other, with a de- liberate dishonesty which gave me a much worse opinion of them, than I had ever entertained from the rob- beries they committed under the strong temptation, to which a sudden oppor- tunity of enriching themselves with the inestimable metal and manufactures of Europe exposed them. Among others who applied to me for the release of a cauue was one Potattow, a man of some consequence, wc 11 known to us all. I consented, supposing the ves- sel to be his own, or that he applied on behalf of a friend. He went im« mediately to the beach, and took pos- session of one of the boats, which, with the assistance of his people, be K .M [VOY.t at MaU- it of the isulas, to Tpon our « bread - produce iarly ex- vas seen ould not months, iu^ been t in our t is rip* lahitants ire from planted i succes- lot sufli- ^hey live te which ild plan- ^ at this V it hap- lich was h plenty I cannot ich they I friends of them ;h I had r owner' letained, it I now applied )ur(l not at these ng petty th a de- re me a , than I he rob- e strong 1 oppor- (viththe itures of g others lease of man of ti to us ;he ves- applied mt im« okpos* which, pie, h« EXPLORATIONS MADE BY MR RANKS. 47 be^r.i to carry off; upon this, how- fve.-, it was eajjerly claimed by the right owiiers, who, supported by the other Indians, clamorously reproached him for invading their property, and prejiareil to take the canoe from him by force. Upon this he desired to be hl-anl, and told them that tlie canoe did indeed once belong to those who cliiiiiu'il it ; but that I, having seiiied it as a forfeit, had sold it to him for a pig. This silenced the clamour ; the owners, knowing that from my power thi^re was no npi>eal, acqui- esced ; and Potattow would have car- ried off his prize if the dispute had not fortunately been overheard by some of our people, who reported it to me. I gave orders immediately that the Indians should be undeceived; upon which the right owners took possession of their canoe, and Potat- tow was so conscious of his guilt that neither he nor his wife, who was privy to his knavery, could look us in the face for some time afterwards. On the 3d, Mr Banks set out early in the morning, with some Indian guides, to trace our river up the valley from which it isaues, and ex- amine how far its banks were inhab- ited. For about six miles they met with houses, not far distant from each other, on eadi side of tlie river, and the valley was everywhere about 400 yards wide from the foot of the hill on one side to the foot of that on the other. But they were now shown a house which they were told was the last that they would see. When they came up to it, the master of it offered them refreshments of cocoa-nuts and other fruits, of which they accepted. After a short stay, they walked for- waid for a considerable time. In bad way it is not easy to compute dis- tances, but they imagined that they had walked about six miles farther, following the course of the river, when they frequently passed under vaults formed oy fragments of the rock, in which they were told people who were benighted frequently pa&sed the night. Soon after they found the river banked by steep rocks, from *lu(;h a cascade fulling with ec.t violence, formed a pool so steep that the Indians said they could not pa««s it. They seemed, indeed, not much to be acquainted with the valley be- yond this place, their business lying chiefly upon tlie declivity of the rocks on each side, and the plains which extended on their summits, where they found plenty of wild plantain, which they called Vae. The way up these rocks from the banks of the river was in every respect dreadful ; the sides were nearly perpendicular, and in some places 100 feet high ; tliey were also rendered exceeding slippery by the water of innumerable sj)ring3 which issued from the fissiires on the surface. Yet up these preci- pices a way was to be traced by a sTiccession of long pieces of the bark of the Hibiscus tUiaceus, which served as a rope for the climber to take hold of, and assisted him in scrambling from one ledge to another, though upon these ledgea there was footing only for an Indian or a goat. One of these ropes was nearly thirty feet in length, and their guides offered to assist them in mounting this pass, but recommended another, at a little distance lower down, as less dilBcult and dangerous. They took a view of this " better way," but found it so bad that they did not choose to at- tempt it, as there was nothing at the top to reward their toil and hazard but a grove of the wild plantain or Vae tree, which they had often seen before. During this excursion Mr Banks had an excellent opportunity to ex- amine the rocks, which were almost everywhere naked, for minerals; but ho found not the least appearance of any. The stones everywhere, like those of Madeira, showed manifest tokens of having been burned; nor is there a single specimen of any stone among all those that were collected in the island upon which there are not manifest and indubitable marks of ftre, except, perhaps, some small pieces of the hatchet-stone, and even of that other fragments were collected which were bnrneu almost to a pum- ice. Traces of 6rc are also manifcjit ,'S 'I H f • m \ i I 48 COOK'S VOYAGES. la the f ery clay upon the hills ; ftnd it n\ay therefore not nnreasonahly bo supposed tliat this and the noighhour- ing islands aro either shattered re- mains of a continent, which some have supposed to be necessary in this f)art of the ^lobe to prespr\'o an emii- ibrium of its parts, which were left behind when the rest sanlc by the mining of a subterraneous fire, so as to give a passage to the sea over it ; or were torn fi'om rocks which, from the creation of the world, had been the bed of the sea, and thrown up in heaps to a height which the waters never reach. One or other of these suppositions will perhaps be thought the more probable, as the water does not gradually grow sliallow as the shore is ap'proached, and the islands are almost everywhere surrounded by reefs which appear to be rude and broken, as some violent concussion would naturally leave the solid sub- stance of the earth. On the 4th, Mr Banks employed himself in planting a great quantity of the seeds of water-melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and trees which he had collected at Kio de Janeiro. For these he prepared ground on each side of the fort, with as many varieties of soil as he could choose; and there is little doubt that they will succeed. He also gave liberally of these seeds to the Indians, and planted many of them in the woods. Some of the melon seeds havinw been planted soon after our arrival, the natives showed him several of the plants, which appeared to be in the most flourishing condition, and were continually asking him for more. We now begin to prepare for our departure, by bending the sails and performing other necessary operations on board the ship — our water being already on board, and the provisions examined. In the meanlimo wo had another visit from Oamo, (Jl»erea, and their son and daughter; the Indians expressing their respect by uncovering the upper parts of their body as they h' 1 done before. The daughter, »ioge name we understand to be i'oimata, was very desirous to see the [ToT.l. fort, but her father would by no means suffer her to come in. Tearee, tlie son of Waheatua, the sovereign of Tiarrabou, tho south-east peninsula, was also with us at this time; and wo received intelligence of the landing of another guest, whose company waa neither expected nor desired. This was no other than the ingenious gentleman who contrived to steal our quadrant. We were told that he ijitended to try his fortune again in the night ; but the Indians all oflered zealously to assist us against him, desiring that, for this puipose, they might be permitted to he in the fort. This had so good an effect, that the thief relinquished his enterprise in despair. On the 7th, the carpenters were employed in taking down the gates ana palisadoes of our little fortifica- tion, for fire-wood on board the ship; and one of the Indians had dexterity enough to steal the staple and hook upon which the gate turned. He was immediately pursued, and after a chase of six miles, ha appeared to have been passed, having concealed himself among some rushes in the brook. The rushes were searched, and though the thief had escpptd, a scraper was found which had been stolen from the ship some time before ; and soon after our old friend Tubourai Tiimaide brought us the staple. On the 8th and 9th we continued to dis- mantle our fort, and our friends still fkxtked about us ; some, 1 believe, Sony at the approach of our departure, and others desirous to make as much as they could of us while we stayed. We were in hopes that we should now leave the island without giving or receiving any other offence, but it unfortunately happened otherw^ioe. Two foreign seamen having been out with my permission, one of them was robbed of his knife, and endeavouring to recover it, probably with circum- stances of great provocation, the In- dians attacked him and dangerously wounded him with a stone ; they wounded his companion also slightly on the head, and then fled into thie mountains. As I should have beep % f a [VOT.l. Id by no Tearee, overei^n rieninsula, time; and le landing ipany waa 3d. Tliia inj^cnious > steal our that he I ngain in all oflered inst liim, pose, they I the Ibrt. that the erprise in iters were the ^ates 3 fortifica- the ship ; dexterity and hook . He was [ after a ipeared to concealed es in the searched, I escpptd, had been me before ; I Tubourai aple. On led to dis- ienda still 1 believe, departure, 3 as much ve stayed. *ve should nit giving fence, but otherwiae. ; been out ■ them was leavouring h circum- n, the In* \ngei'onsly >ne ; they io slightly i into the liavc boep 17G9.J DESERTION OP sorry to take any fiirtlior notice of the aHiiir, I was not disjileasod that the oIlViKlors lir.d csofiped; but I was iminodiiitf.'Iy iiivolvod in a miarrel which I very much re^'rettcd, and wliicli yet it was not possil)le to avoid. In the middle of the night between tlie Stli and 9th, Clement Webb and Saimiel Gibson, two of the marines, both young men, went privately from the fort, and in the morning were not to be found. As public notice had been given that all hands were to go on board on tlie next day, and that the ship would sail on the morrow of tlint day or tlie day following, I be- gan to fi*ar that the absentees intended to stay beliind. I knew that I could take no eirectaal steps to recover them without endangering the harmony and goodwill which at present subsisted among us, and therefore determined to wait a day for the chance nf their return. On Monday morning the lOtli, the marines, to my great con- cern, not being returned, an inquiry was made after them of the Indians, who frankly told us that they did not intend to return, and had taken refuge in the mountains, wliers it was impossible for our people to find tliera. They were then rei^ lested to assist in the search, and after some delibera- tion, two uf them undertook to con- duct such persons as I sliould thiak proper to send after them to the place of their retreat. As they were known to be without anna, I thought two woulil bo sufficient, and acc(;rdingly despatched a petty officer and a cor- poral of marines, with the Indian guides, to fetch them back. As the recovery of these men was a matter of great importance, as I had no time to lose, and as the Indians spoke doubtfully of their return — telling us tliat they had each of them taken a wife, and were becomo inhabitants of the country, — it was intimated to several of the chiefs who were in the fort with their women, among whom were Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be per- mitted to leave it till our deserters were brought back. This precaution I thought the more necessary, as, by TWO MA It INKS 4i) concealing tliem i few days, they might compel me to go without them ; and I had the pleasure to observe that they received the intimation \vith very little signs cither of fear or discontent, assuring me that my people should be si cured and sent back as soon as possible. While this was doing at the fort, I sent Mr Hicks in the pin- nace to fetch Tootahah on board the ship ; which he did, without alarming either him or his people. If the In- dian guides proved faithful and in earnest, I had reason to expect the return of my people with the deserters before evening. Being disappointeti, my suspicions increased ; and niglit coming on, I thought I was not safe to let the people whom I had detained as hostages continue at the fort, and I therefijre ordered Tubourai Tamaide, Oberea, and some others, to be taken on board the ship. This spread a general alarm, and several ot them, especially the women, expressed theii apprehensions with great emotion and many tears when they were put into the boat. I went on board with them, and Mr Ranks remained on shore, with some others whom I thought it of less conseqiicnce to secure. About 9 o'clock Webb was brought back by some of the natives, who declared that Gibson and the petty officer and coi'poral would be detained till Tootahah should be set at liberty. The tables were now turned upon me, but I had proceeded too far to retreat. I immediately despatched Mr Hicks in the long-boat with a strong party of men, to rescue tho prisoners, and told Tootahah that it behoved him to send some of his people with them, with orders to afford them effectual assistance, and to demand the release of my men in his name, for that I should expect him to answer for the contrary. He readily complied ; this f)arty recovered my men without the east opposition, and, about 7 o'clock in the morning, returned with them to the ship, though they had not been able to recover the arms which had been taken from them when they wort seized. These, however, were brought on board in less than haJf-an-hour, D I , i X tl 60 COOK'S VOYAGES. I -i ' i i| I ' anwer. He was also the chief tahowa or priest of the island, conse- (juently well acquainted with the reli- gion of the country, as well with respect to its ceremonies as principles. He had also great experience and know- ledge in navigation, and was particu- larly acquainted with the number and situation of the neighbouring islands. This man had often expressed a de- sire to go with us, and on the 12th, in the moruiuff, having, with the other natives, left us the day before, he came on board with a boy about thirteen years of age, his servant, and urged us to let him proceed with us on our voyage. To have such a per- son on board was certainly desirable for many reasons ; by learning his language, and teaching him ours, we should be able to acquire a much better knowledge of the customs, policy, and religion of the people, than our short stay among them could give us : I therefore gladly agreed to receive them on board. As we were prevented from sailing to-day, by having found it necessary to make new stocks to our small and best bower anchors, the old ones having been totally destroyed by the worms^ Tupia said he would go once more on shore, and make a signal for the boat to fetch him off in the evening. He went accordingly, and took with him a miniatiu-e picture of Mr Banks's to show his friends, and several little things to give them as parting pre- sents. After dinner, Mr Banks, beinff de- sirous to procure a drawing of the Morai belongisg to Tootahah at [VOY.I, I strongly girls, and eal thf m- ilod, and iI)on the uing was iverybody jre almost lia, whose icd in this IS I have linister of he height the chief id, conse- h the reli- th respect pies. He ,nd know- s particu- imoer and g islands, ssed a de< e 12th, in the other tefore, he toy about rvant, and d with us iich a per- desirable ming hia 1 ours, we ) a much customs, le people, hem could agreed to s we were 0-day, by to make and best es having he wonnfl^ e mora on r the boat ling. He with him Banks's to eral little rting pre- beinff de> ng of the >tahah at 1769.] t»RKPARAT10N8 FOR LEAVING THE ISLATITD. Eparre, I attended him thither, ac- companied by Dr Solander, in the pinnace. As soon as we landed, many of our friends came to meet us, though some absented themselves in resentnient of what had happened the day beforo. We immediately pro- ceeded to Tootahah's house, where we were joined by Oberea, with several others who had not come out to meet ns, and a perfect reconciliation was soon brought ahout ; in conscrpence of which tliey promised to visit us early the next day, to take a laist farewell of us, as we told them we should certainly set sail in the after- noon. At this place, also, we found Tupia, who returned with us, and slept this night on board the ship for the lirst time. On the next morning, Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was very early crowded with our friends, end sur- rouutlcd by a multitude of canoes, which were filled with the natives of an inferior class. Between eleven and twelve we weighed anchor, and as soon as the ship was under sail, the Indians on board took their leaves, and wept, with a decent and silent sorrow, in which there was something ▼ery striking and tender. The people in the canoes, on the contrary, seemed to vie with each other in the loudness ot their lamentations, which we con- sidered mther as alTectation than grief. Tupia su!?tained himself in this scene with a firmness and resolution truly admirable. He wept, indeed, but the effort that he made to conceal his tears concuned with them to do him hon- our. He sent his last present, a shirt, by Otheothea, to Potomia, Tootahah's favourite mistress, and then went with Mr Banks to the masthead, waving to the canoes as long as they continued in sight. Thus we took leave of Otaheite and its inhabitants, after a stay of just three months. For much the greater y>art of the time we lived together ih the most cordial friendship, and a perpetual reciprocation of good offices. The accidental differences which now and t&en happened couid not be more sincerely regretted on their part, thiin 51 they were on ours. ITxe pitndpal causes were such m necessarily re- sulted from our situation and cir- cumstances, in conjunction with the infirmities of human nature ; from our not being able perfectly to understand each other ; and from the disposition of the inhabitants to theft, which we could not all times bear with or pro- vent. They had not, however, ex- cept in one instance, been attended with any fatal consequence ; and to that accident were owing the measures I took to prevent otiiers of the same kind. I hoped indeed to have availed myself of the impression which had been made upon them by the lives saeriiiced in their contest with the Dolphin, so as that the intercourse between us should have been carried on wholly w ithout bloodshed ; by this hope all my measures were djrected during the whole of my continuance at the island ; and I sincerely wish that whoever shall next visit it may be still more fortunate. Our traflic here was carried on with as much order as in the best regulated market in Europe. It was mdndged princi- pally by Mr Banks, who was inde- fatigable in procuring provision and refreshments while they were to be had ; but during the latter part of our time th6y became scarce, partly by the increased consumption at the fort and ship, and partly by the coming on of the season in which cocoa-nuts and bread-fhiit faih All kinds of fruit we purchased for beads and nails, but no nails l68S th&n forty -penny Werd current. After i very snort time we could hevet get a pig of more than ten or twelve pounds for less than a hatchet ; because, though these people set a high valub upon spike-nails, yet, these being an article with which many people iii the ship were provided, this Woih^ found a much more easy Wi^ of pro- curing them than by bringing doWti provisions. The b^t articles fik traflic here aie &tea, hatchets, spik^ large nails, lookihg-gl&sses, kniteiii and beads, fbr sonid of which, tttirf- thing that thd Uititei haT^ tbalf be ^ored. Th4y «re, indeed, fod < , h\ 11 '••! I ''\ il 59 r)t' fine linen cloth, bcth ^vliito nnd printed ; but an rxo worth half-a- crown will fetch moro than a piece of cloth worth twenty shillings. [Althongh the account in the Caoinet Cyclopaedia of Cook's stay at Otaheite has been in great measure anticipated, some particulars there go beyond what Dr Hawkesworth him- self relates, founding his narralivc on the observations and meniuranda of the distinguished navigator.] "The mild and judicious conduct of Cook completely won the confid- ence of the Otaheitans, and enabled him to form a more accurate opinion of their character than the voyagers who had previously visited their island. They were remarkably friiMidly and affectionate, and indeed their attach- ments alone seemed exen)|)ied from the characteristic levity which pre- vented them from fixing their atten- tion on the same object for any length of time. They are a hantlsome people, finely made, and with opeji vivacious luuntcnances ; their ingenuity was in nothing more conspicuous than in the fine cloth, or rather paper, which they made of the inner bark of a tree. The garments of this material, which they wore, were becoming and even elegant, and were arranged by the women so as to produce an efTect little short of the classic draperies of anti- quity. Their houses were little more tnan sheds, erected in the neighbour- hood of the trees under which they reclined and took their meals during the day. These habitations stood very thick in the groves which cover the low margin of the island. High mountains rose behind, and a number of small streams stole down the de- clivities to the sea-shore ; the whole presenl;ing, from a distance, a most enchanting picture. •* It was conjectured by M. de Bou- gainville that the inhabitants of Otaheite were composed of two differ- ent races, and that one of these was in a servile condition. Cook also notices the superiority of the chiefs ia figure and appearance, but does not 7#nture tA ancribe this difference COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vo'''- ^• to any circumstances of origin or descent. He does not seem to have observed the power which the chiefs usually exercised over their retainers, and which the French navigator, with perhaps too little reason, seems to have considered as absolutely despotic. But the king, it was evident, though treated with respect by all, possessed no power but wliat was derived from thevoluntaryattachment of the chiefs, whose obedience or support in every enterprise could be secured only by consulting them. The rule of suc- cession among those islanders is singn- lar in the extreme. The son, as soon as he is born, succeeds to the autho- rity of his father, who at once becomes only a regent instead of a king, if he be fitted for that office. Association* of a licentious character existed among the chief persons in these islands, and among other bad etlects, tended to encourage the crime of infanticide ; a crime to which the law of inheritance just mentioned may have held out some inducement, as the ambition o* the parent was at once blighted by th bii-th of a son. •' At the time of Cook's visii% the sovereignty had devolved on a boy only seven years old, the son of Oamo and Oberea, the latter of whom had figured so conspicuously in Captain Wallis's narrative as queen of the island. She lived separate from her husband, and though still treated as a noble, no longer enjoyed the same degree of power and consideration which had rendered her friendship so valuable to the commander of the Dolphin. As a further proof of the progress made by these islanders to- wards civilisation, it deserves to be remarked, that their women were not condemned to labour, as is usually the case amongst rude nations. They had, indeed, abundance of domestic occupation, in making and dyeinff their cloth, preparing the meals, ana similar offices ; but though they were not permitted to eat with the men» they were in general treated with respect and attention. ** When M. de Bougainville arrived here, he found the islanders already [VOT. I. rigin or to have le chiefs Btaiiiors, tor, with 3 to have lespotic. , though possessed vcd from le chiefs, in every only by ) of suc- is singu- , as soon le outho- I beconiea ing, if he lociations 3d aiiionff inds, ana ended to ticide ; a heritance held out ibition o' :ed by th visii% the on a boy 1 of Oamo rhom had 1 Captain in of the from her treated as the same sideration nidship so er of the oof of the anders to- •ves to be 1 were not is usually ins. They ' domestic ad dyeinff meals, ana they were the men» lated with ille arrived }rs already 1769.] TUPIA. W aiquaintcd with the use of iron, which i coins and medals, and a pewter jdite they called 'aouri,' a name which he 8U|>i>()soil them to have learned from thf Kiiglish who had ]iieceJed him ; but Captain Wallis observed that they were not wholly ignorant of that metal in hi.s time, though he does not men- tion by what name they calloil it ; for as soon as they were presented with iron nails, thoy began to sharpen them, while they took no such pains with ]»ieces of brass and copper. Cook circumnavigated and surveyed the coasts of Otaheite, which he found to have a circumference of about thirty leagues ; and after a stay of about three months he piepared to dejiart. In leaving the affectionate islanders, ho remarks, ' that, allowing for their theft, thoy need not fear a comparison with any people on earth.' A native named Tujiia, one of Oberea's minis- ters, and well instructed in all the learning of his countrymeu, offered to accompany the English, and the proposal was readily accepted. The Otaheitans, it a)»]ieared, sometimes ventured 200 or 300 miles through the ocean in their o])en canoes ; and Tupia had a vague knowledge of above eighty islands, the position of many of which he attem})ted to describe. He was well icquainted with the heavens ; and, in eveiy part of the •ubsequent voyage in the Endeavour, ho Wcos enabled to point out the direc- tion of his native island. "On leaving Otaheite, Cook visited the neighbouring islands of Ulietea, Borabora, Olahah, Huaheine, and Raiataia. Tupia related, that in the time of his grandfather a friendly ■hip had called at the last named island, and he also stated that a ship had been wrecked on a low island called Oanna. These ships were pro- bably those of Admiral Koggewein's squadron, and Oanna may have been the Schadelyk or Pernicious Island of that navigator. At Huaheine, Cook contractcc^ a friendship with Dree, the old chief of the island, from whom he experienced unremitting kindness, and to whom, at his depar- ture, he gave, along with some valu- able presents, a sqemU bag containing with an inscription, as a memorial ol his visit to this part of the world. These gifts the old chief i>romi8ed to keep in safety. The people of Ilora- bora had invaded some of the islands in the neighbourhood, and with such success that they were looked upon as invincible, and were become ob- jects of dread to the simple islanders. Tupia was anxious that the English should terrify those haughty con- querors, and exhibit their superiority by firing great guns at Borabora; and at length, to calm his importunity, a ball was fired towards the island when the ship was at least seven leagues distant from the shore. To the group of islands which Cook now quittea, he gave the collective name of the Society Islands. " After sailing four days to .the west and south-west, an island was dis- covered t(» which Tui)ia gave the name of Ohetero;! The natives crowded on the shore to resist the landing of the strangers. They were a hand- some, vigorous people, and seemed far to excel the natives of the Society Islands in the beauty of their dross. The cloth was dyed in various pat- terns, and of several colours, though bright yellow seemed to predomir ate. Their robes being collected round their waist by a belt of red cloth, gave them a gay and warlike appearance. Some had caps made of the feathers of the tropic bird, while others wore small turbans of a very elegant ap- ])earance. Their canoes were well constructed, and, as well as the jave- lins, were carved in a manner highly creditable to their taste and ingenuity. But no anchorage could be found near the island; and as the natives seemed bent on hostility, our navigators gave ap all thoughts of cultivating an ac- quaintance witn them, and pursued their voyage. " On the 15th of August they sailed from Oheteroa, and in the beginning of October perceived, in the colour of the sea, in the weeds with which it was covered, and the birds which flew around them, unequivocal signs of the proximity of land. At l«ngt)i, ' il ! I: i % ','1 I! «< COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT.L 1^1 ii ' on tli9 6tli of that month, land was diBtinctly seen stretching to a great extent in the horizon ; several ranges of hills were distinguished rising one itbovo another, and a chain of moiin- ^ins of an cnoimous height termi- nated the picture in the rear. The teneral opinion was, that they had i^covered the 'Terra Australia In- cognita,' but it was soon perceived that this must be a part of New Zea- \iji,iid or Staaten Land, discovered by Jybel Tasman in 1642. A party who tfent on sliore in order to open an intercourse with the natives met with pp success. They were fierce, and oli)stinately hostile; but it was dis* ^yered, to the surprise and pleasure of our navigators, that when Tupia spoke to thexn in his native language, he was perfectly understood. In a quarrel which ensued, one of them was killed, and his dress appeared, on examination, to correspond exactly Vrith the drawing appended to Tas- man's royage. As it was found im« possible to commence an anncable correspondence with them by gentle means, it was determined to resort to force, and, according to the method followed by the first Spanish navi- gators, to capture the Indians first, m order to have an opportunity of treating them with kindness. This plan of proceeding can hardly be jus- tified upon principles of reason or V^orality, ana it Las never been at- tended with such unequivocal success as to palliate its demerits. Two canoes were seen entering the bay, and the ship's boats proceeded imme- diately to intercept them ; S one, the natives escaped by paddling ; but those in the other, which was a sailiii^ canoe, finding it impossible to get o^ boldly prepared for hattle. Oi seven Indians who were in the canoe, four were killed on the first discharge of musketry, and the other three, who were all young, immediately jumped overboard, and attempted to save themselves by swimming ; thev were, however, overtaken and i)icked up by the boat, though not without some difficulty. They expected to be put to ^«»th at once ; h^t ^ ^f i|tudi^\i« kindn&ia with which thej w«re treated soon convinced them of their error, their consternation gave way to trans- ports of joy. They conversed freely with Tu])ia ; and after having been kept a day on board the ship, were again sent ashore. •' The account which the boys gave to their countrymen of their treat- ment on board the ship led to a cor- respondence, which did not, however, bear the appearance of confirmed friendship. The New Zealanders still maintained a fierce and independent carriage, and acted eo little in con- cert, that the behaviour of different individuals was often of a totally op- posite character ; but their distrust could not be generally overcome, nor an intercourse established which was likely to prove safe and advartagsous. An attempt was made by them to carry off Tayeto, Tupia's boy, and they nearly succeeded ; but guns be- ing fired at the canoe as it paddled oC the natives, in a moment of fear, let go their hold, and the boy leaped into the water. The New Zealanders made great exertions to secure their prize, but the ship's boats finally suc- ceeded in picking up the youth, whose terror at the violent conduct of these savages was increased by the convic- tion" which our navigators had ob- tained, that they were cannibals, and even that they regai*ded human flesk as a dainty. " This bay, in which no provisions could be procured, was named Poverty Bay ; and our voyagers, on leaving it, proceeded along the coast towards the orth. They gave the name of Mer- cury Bay to the inlet in which they anchored while observing a transit ol thit planet over the sun. They were surprised to find that the natiTes, jiotwitkstanding their ferocity, were not unacquainted with the art of cul- tivating the ground. They had gar- dens, in which they reared gourds and several kinds of fruits. A decked canoe also was fouTid on this shore, which indicated their proficiency in maritime afiairs. Their ' heppahs ' or hamlets were forts neatly constmcted op f|ieir^ted situation^, def(m4ed hjr EXPLORATIONS ON NEW ZEALAND COAST. 66 17W.] lines and trenches, and accessible only by a steep and narrow entrance. They hiid no knowledge of iron when our voyagers first touched here, although iron sand was found in the beds of several streams. The women were thickly painted with oil and red ochre, and the men were tattooed after the usual fashion of the South Seas. They were strong and active, not deficient in intelligence, or in sentiments of generosity, notwithstanding the cruel- ty of disposition engendered by their habits cf continual warfare. Tupia conversed much with their ])riests ; and from the superiority of his know ledge and the variety of his supersti- tious lore, he was regarded by them with peculiar respect and veneration. "In prosecuting his examination cf the coast towards the north, Cook entered a deej* inlet terminating in a large river, which he explored to the distance of fourteen miles ; from the magnitude of this river, and the gene- ral appearance of the country round it, he named it the Thames. The timber which grew here was of enor- mous size, trees being seen nearly twenty feet in girth six feet from the ground, and above eighty feet in height to the branches. *' Having fiuisJied the examination of the north-western shore of New Zealand, Cook experienced such seveie gales, though it was now midsummer in these latitudes, that in five weeks he did not advance above fifty leagues in his course along the western shore. He at length reached a secure and capacious harbour, which he named Queen Charlotte's Sound. The country was here taken possession of, and the sound carefully sun'ej'^ed. Wood, water, and fish were in the gieatest abundance, the natives friendly, and I)laiit8 of an anti-scorbutic quality were gathered on the shore, which soon restored the crow to perfect health south-east, and thus found that tha land, the continuity of which he had not before suspected, was divided by a strait. Pasrojig through this strait, to which gcogiaphers have unani- mously given the name of its dis- coverer, he directed his co;irse towards the north till he arrived near the point where his examination of this country had commenced. He then resumed his course to the south-east, and followed the coast of the south- ernmost of the two islands comprised under the name of New Zealand, re- turning again from the south to Queen Charlotte^ Sound. The southern island, or, as the natives call it, Tavaj Pocnammoo, is a rugged country, with mountains of prodigious height, and covered with snow the greater part of the year. The inhabitants also, though not more fierce, are ruder than their northern neighbours. They dif- fer likewise in dialect from the inha- bitants of Eaheinomauwe, as the nor- thern island is called, where, as the climate is more genial and the soil more luxuriant, the population is con- siderably greater, and the arts as wdi as the institutions of rude society mneb more advanced. " Of the natives of New Zealand Cook entertained a highly favourable opinion, notwithstanding their canni- balism, of which he saw numerous in- contestable proofs. He could not col- lect from them any tradition respecting the arrival of Tasman on their shores ; but they heard of a country called Ulimaroa, situated NW. by W., where the people ate hogs, and whence some canoes seemed to have accidently ar- rived in their country. The circum> navigation of I" aw Zealand was the first grand discovery of Cook. When Tasman touched on that country, he iniiigiwd it to be a part of the great Terra Australis, or continent supposed to extend to the South Pole. Om Here our voyagers were particularly i i.avigator was satisfied with having struck with the exquisite warbling of the birds, which, like our nightin- gales, sing only during the night. ' ' On ascending a height in the neigh- bourhood of the sound, Cook was sur- prised on descrying the sea to the disjiioved this suiJposition ; and the lateness of the season would not permit him to continue his rese&.onoi in higher latitudes, he determined to direct his course to the eastern coaat of New Holland, rcs{)ecting whieh i >■< i ^ 6 ft. I- I »6 COOK'S VOYAGES the learned world was still in total ignorance. " He took leave of New Zealand on the 31st of ilarch 1770, and in twenty days discovered the coast of New Hol- land, at no great distance from the point where the survey of Tasman had terminated. In proceeding to the north, an inlet was entered, in which the ship rode securely for some days. Inhabitants were seen, but, from their shyness and timidity, they could not be induced to approach the strangers ; they seemed to be sunk in that brutal condition which is itisensible >iven to the promptings of curiosity. From the variety of new plants collected here by the naturalists of the expedi- tion, tliis inlejt received the name of Botany Bay. No rivers weie dis- covered by Cook in his voyage along this coast, which has since been found abundantly supplied with fine streams. The natives, wherever they were seen, manifested the same repugnance to the strangers, and the same indilTer- ence to the trinkets presented to them. Towards the north tlie country grew more hilly, and the of the coast became more and intricate. *' No accident had yet occurred in a voyage of 2000 miles along a coast hitherto unexplored ; but in Lat. 16° S., a high headland being in sight, which from the circumstance was afterwards named Cape Tiibulation, the ship during the night struck on some coral rocks with so much force that there seemed imminent danger of her going to pieces. The planks which formed her sheathing were seen floating off, and the water rushed in with such impetuosity that, though all the pumps were manned, the leak could hardly be kept under. As day broke, land was descried eight leagues distant, without an island oetween to which the boats might convey the crew in case of the chip's foundering. The guns and all the stores that could be spared were thrown overboard, and preparations wore made to heave the ship off the rocks, although it was thought probable that she would sink Boon after. On the following night, navigation dangerous (Tot. I however, she was got afloat, and, to the surprise of all, it was found that the leakage did not increase. By con- stant exertion and coul perseverance the ship was navi^uted to a small harbour op[»ortunoly discovered on the coast— the only harbour, indeed, scon by our pe^ ,)le during the whole voyage, which could have afforded them the same relief. On examining the injury done to the vessel, it was found that a large piece of the coral rock, having forced its way through the timbers, had remained fixed in the aperture ; but for this providen- tial circumstance the ship miist have sunk the moment she was got off the reef. " The cove in which our navigators found shelter is situated at the mouth of a small stream, to which was given the name of Endeavour River. Here the natives appeared rather more fami- liar, but they set little value on any- thing offered to them, except food. When some turtle, which they coveted, was refused them, they avenged the affront by setting fire to the long glass near the tents, an action which had nearly been attended with dis- agreeable consequences. MrBanksand Dr Solandur found here abundance of employment ; ?Jmost everything con- nected with the animal and vegetable kingdoms being absolutely new. Our naturalists were particularly pleased with the animal called by the natives kangaroo. They saw several at a dis- tance, but a long time elapsed before they could succeed in shooting one. *• The ship bting repaired, our voy- agers left the harbour ; and, after much patient labour and anxiety, at length gained the deep sea, having been three months entangled within the reefs. They now prosecuted their voyage to the north, flattering them- selves that the danger was gone by, when the wind abated, and the ship was found to be drifting fast towards the reefs which lined this coast nearly in its whole extent, and on which the great waves of the Southern Ocean break with a tremendous surf. Hei destruction seemed inevitable, when a narrow channel through the i-ecfa was "3 9 i 1770-2.] descried at no great distance; and although the attempt was attended with great risk, yet the ship was steered to run through it. Having thus entered from necessity a second time within the reef, Cook resolved to }»ersevere through all difficulties in oUowing the coast lest he might lose the strait that separates New Holland from New Guinea, 'if,' as he doubt- fhlly ex]»resse8 it, ' such a strait there be. ' He at length reached a point of land from which he could discern an oi)en sea to the south-west, and was thus convinced that he had found the strait in question. He then landed, and in the name of his Sovereign took possession of the immense line of coast that he had discovered, to which he gave the name of New South Wales. The little island on which the cere- mony wiis performed received the name of Possession Island. "The crew of the Endeavour had suffered so much from sickness and fatigue that it was not deemed advis- nJbHib to prolong the voyage by an ex- END OP FIRST VOYAGE. 67 amination of the coasts of New Gtiinea. Our navigator^ therefore, held his course for Batavia, where he wished to refit his vessel ; but the noxious climate of this place proved more fatal to the men than all their preceding hardships — scarcely ten remained in a Condition to do duty. Tupia and his floor boy Tayeto, who had been afflicted with the scurvy during the whole voyage, were among the first victims to the pestilential air of Bat- avia. The seeds of illness lingered in the ship long after she had left the place ; and before her anival at the Cape she had lost no less than thirty persons, among whom were l^lr Green the astronomer, Dr Solunder, and the surgeon ; the life of Mr Banks also was for some time despaired of. On the 10th of June, land, which proved to he the Lizard, was discovered by the same boy who had first seen New Zealand ; and on the 12th, Cook came to an anchor in the Downs, having been employed two years and eleven months in his voyage round the earth." OOOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 4 I 4 I I **The first important discovery made by Cook was etFeoted by the circum- navigation of New Zealand. When Tasnian described that country, he supposed it to be a part of the great Terra Australis Incognita, extending probably across the southern Pacific Ocean; but Cook's voyage at once overturned this theory. An opinion, however, which has long existed, can- not be at once dispelled, although utterly groundless ; and many still continued to believe in the existence of a southern continent, although Cook's discoveries had cut off the con- nection between their theory and the facts which hitherto had b«en adduced in its support. But to set the ques- tion of a southern continent com jiletely at rest, another expedition was necer.. sary; and the Ei^jlish Gofernment, having now made the ..dvancemei. : of science the object of national exer- tions, resolved to continue their laud- able researches. The King was partial to the scheme; and the Earl f Sand- wich, who was at the head of the Ad- miralty, possessed a mind sufficiently liberal and comprehensive to secoi 1 effectively the wishes of his Sov- ^'n. " Captain Cook was named a once as the fittest person to command the new expedition. Two ships, the Re- solution and the Adventure, the former of 462, the latter of 336 tons burthen, were fitted out for the voyage ; and, that no opportunity might be lost to science from the want of persons cap- able of observing nature under every aspect, astronomers and naturalists I , i Jm J II I. m 1: ; i I I la COOK'S VOYAGES. [VOY.II. of eminent ability were engaged to accompany the expedition ; Messrs Wales and Bayley proceeding in the former, Beinhold Forster and his son in the latter, capacity. The ships wore amply stored and provided for a long and difficult voyage, particularly mith anti-scorbqtics, and whatever was thought likely to preserve the health of the crews. Cook sailed from Plymouth on the 13th of July 1772, on his second voyage "' dis- covery. On his arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, he was induced, by the entreaties of Mr Forster, to allow the celebrated naturalist Sparmann to join the expedition. He now di- rected his course to the south, in search of the land said to have been discovered by the French navigator Bouvet, but violent gales drove him far to the east of the meridian in which it was supposed to lie. After long struggling with adverse winds, he at length reached the same meri- dian, some leagues to the south of the latitude assigned to Cape Cir- cumcision. Having thus proved that the land said to have been seen by Bouvet, if it existed at all, was cer- tainly no part of a southern contin- ent, he continued his course to the south and east. "On the 10th of December our navigators first met with islands of ice, and on the following days these occurred in greater numbers and of larger size ; S' me of them were nearly two miles in circuit, and sixty feet high ; yet such was the force of the waves, that the sea broke quite over them. This was at first view a grati- fying sjiectacle, but the sentiment of pleasure was soon swallowed up in the liorror which seized on the mind from the contemplation of danger ; for a ship approaching these islands on the weather side would be dashed to pieces in a moment. AmiJst the obstructions to which our navigators were exposed from the ice islanus con- tinually succeeding one another, they derived the advantage of having an abundant supply of fresh water ; large masses of ice were carried off, and stowed on deck, ai:d th? water pro- duced frpno its meltiug was found perfectly sweet and well tasted. "On the 17th of January- 1773, uur navigators had reached the Lati- tude of 67° 15' S., and they saw the ice extc]iding from east to west-south- west, without the least appearanc« of an opening. It was vain, there- fore, to persist any longer in a south- erly course ; and as there was some danger of being surrounded by the ice, prudence dictated a retreat to the north. On the 8th of February, the weather being ejctremely thick and hazy, it was found that the Adventure had parted company ; the rendezvous appointed in case of this accident, was Queen Charlotte's Sound in New Zealand, and thither Cook directed his course. In the Latitude of 62* S., on the 17th of the same month, between midnight and 3 o'clock in the morning, lights were seen in the heavens, similar to those that are kno\\Ti in the northern hemisphere by the name of the Aurora Borealis. Captain Cool? had never heard that the Aurora Australis had been seen before, but the same phenomenon was witnessed repeatedly m the sequel of this voyage. During his run to the eastward in this high latitude, he had ample reason to conclude that no land lay to the south, unless at a very great distance. At length, after having been 117 days at sea, during which time he had sailed 3360 leagues without having come once within sight of land, he saw the shores of New Zealand on the 25th of March, and ou the following day came to an anchor in Dusky Bay. Notwith- standing the length and hardships of his voyage, there was no sickness in the ship ; the attention which he paid to the health of the men, bv enforc- ing cleanliness, by keeping tne vessel drj' and well ventilatrominent figure. Otoo, the present cing of Otaheite, a man of fine fi^re }Ut of remarkably timid disposition, contracted an intimate friendship with Ca})tain Cook. Oberea, who, when the island was first visited by Captain Wallis, was so conspicuous a char- acter, was now reduced to an humble station, and had declined as much in personal appearance as in rank. It is remarkable that few inauiiies were made after Tupia, who had accom- panied Cook in his fonner voyage, or after Aootooroo, the native of Ota- heite, who had accompanied Bou- gainville to Europe ; but, though the islanders were neglectful of their uwn countrymen, they were uniibnrly soli- citous in inquiring after Mr ^tenkft. k 'I J»i >i t I 1 . ii <■ I it; ii I :1 ■Vl ill 1: 60 COOK'S VOYAGTIS. L9ot.II. " On leaving Otaheite, Cook visited the other islands of the group, where he found provisions in greater abund- ance. Oree, the chief of Huaheiue, evinced towards him the most affec- tionate regard. Omai, a native of Ulietea, being desirous to accompany the English, was admitted by Captain Furneaux on board the Adventuie ; he was not of the higher class, and, consequently, nut a favourable speci- men of these Islanders as far as re- garded person and deportment ; but his docility and general propriety of conduct eventually justified the choice of Captain Furneaux. A young na- tive of Borabora, named Hete-Hcte, or Oedidee (as our great navigator named him), was at the same time alloved by Captain Cook to embark in the Resolution. " On quitting the Society Islands, Cook directed his course to the west, where he had reason to believe, from the accounts of the natives, that much yet remained to be explored. At the island named Middleburg by Eoggewein, he was well treated by a chief called Tioouy ; at Amsterdam Island his reception was equally favourable. The language of these islanders differed but little from that of Otaheite, and they were evidently of the same race. Some of our navi- gators thought them much hand- somer ; but others, and among these Cook himself, were of a different opinion. The men were grave and stately ; but the women, on the con- trary, were remarkably vivacious, and prattled unceasingly to the strangers, regardless of the mortify- ing fact that the latter could not understand them. But these people were chiefly distinguished from the natives of the Society Islands by their superior industry. On the Island of Amsterdam, Captain Cook was struck with admiration, when he surveyed the cultivation and the beauty of the scene ; he thought him- self transported into the most fertile plains of Europe ; there was not an inch of waste ground. The roads or paths occupied no more space than WM absolutely necessary, and the fences did not take nn above four inches each ; nor was this small por- tion of ground wholly lost, for the fences themselves contained in gene- ral useful trees or plants. The scene was everywJiere the same ; and nature, assisted by a little art, nowhere as- sumed a more sjdendid appearance than in these islands. ** Cook now directed his course again to New Zealand ; but, on ap- proaching that country, the ships had to encounter a succession of severe gales and continued bad weather, during which the Adventure was again lost sight of and never after- wards rejoined. On the 3d of Nov- ember the liesolution anchored in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The winter had been spent not unprofitably in revictualling the ships, restoring the health of the crews, and obtaining a more accurate knowledge of the islands between the tropics. And now, as summer approached, it was Cook's intention to run from New Zealand, where wood and water were to be procured in abundance, and to explore the high southern latitudes from west to east, in whicli course he might reckon upon having the winds and cun'ents in his favour. While the liesolution lay in Queen Char- lotte's Sound, indubitable proofs pre- sented themselves that cannibalism was common among the natives. One of them wh« carried some human flesh in his canoe, was allowed to broil and eat it on board the liesolu- tion, in order to satisfy the doubts of some of the officers. Oedidee, who witnessed all this, was shocked be- yond measure at the spectacle. At first he stood motionless as a statue, but his horror at length gave way to rage, which vented itsfilf not only on the NewZealander, but on the officers who had encouraged him ; and he could not be induced even to touch the knife which had been employed to cut the human fle^h. " On the 2Gth of November, Cook sailed to prosecute his examination of the Antarctic seas. His crew were in good health and high spirits, not at all dejected by the arduous imtk whlo^ . I i 1774.] THE STATUES ON EASTER ISLATNT). ei in at icj. was before them. In a few days they | crossed the antipodes of London, and wore thus on the point of the globe which was most distant from their home. The first ice island was seen on the 12th of December; and, on the 30th of that month, our naviga- tors had reached the 71st degree of southern latitude ; but here the ice was so compact that it was impossible to proceed any further towards the south ; and it was also obvious that no continent existed in that direction but what must be inaccessible from the ice. It was Cook's intention to winter again within the tropic ; but in proceeding thither, he wished to satisfy himself as to the southern land said to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez. He sailed suflBciently near the position assigned to that supposed continent to assure himself that it could not have beau anything more than an island of moderate size. He now directed his coursi in search of Davis's Land or Easter leland, which had been sought in vain by Byron, Carteret, and Bougainville. Cook, however, succeeded better, and made the island on the Uth of March 1774. The natives were found to speak a language radically the same with that of Otaheite, and which thus reaches across the Pacific Ocean from New Zealand to the se«^uestered islands in the East. Easter Island was found to be remarkably baiTen, ill supplied with water, and wholly without wood. But the attention of the English was forcibly attracted by the great statues seen on the island by Roggewein. About fifteen yards from the landing-place was found a perpendicular wall of square hewn stones, about eight feet in height, and nearly sixty in length ; another wall parallel to the first, and about forty feet distant from it, was raised to the same height ; the whole area between the walls was filled up and paved with square stones of blackish lava. The stones of the walls were 80 carefully fitted as to make a dur- able piece of architecture. In the midst of the area was a pillar con- liatms of a single stone, about twenty feet high and about five feet wide, re- presenting the human figure down to the waist. The workmanship was rude but not bad ; nor were the fea- tures of the face ill formed, but the ears were long beyond proportion. On the top of the head was placed upright a huge round cylinder ol stone, above five feet in height and in diameter ; this cap, which resem- bled the head-dress of an Egyptian divinity, was formed of a kind of stone different from that which com- posed the rest of the pillar, and had a hole on each side, as if it had been made round by turning. It aii]>e.ired as difficult to explain how the natives of this island, who were but few in number, could carve such huge statues with no better tools than those made of bones or shells, or how they raised them on their pedestals when finished, as to divine for what purpose they undertook such gigantic labours ; for it did not a])pear that the statues were objects of worship ; yet on the eastern side of the island they were numerous enough to employ the male population of the island for many centuries in their construction. The skill of this people in carving was still more manifest in the ornaments of tlieir canoes, and in small wooden figures, of which the English brought homo many curious specimens. " From Easter Island Cook directed his course to the Marquesas, dis- covered by Mendana in 1595; and on the 6th of April he got sight of one island of the group, which was, how- ever, a new discoveiy, and received, from the gentleman who first descried it, the name of Hood's Island. The other islands seen by Mendana, St Pedro, Dominica, and St Christiana, were afterwards discovered in succes- sion. The ship with much difficulty anchored in Mendana's Poit in the last-mentioned island. Magdalena, the fifth island of the group, wa* seen only at a distance. Of the in- habitants of these islands Captain Cook tells U3, that collectively they are without exception the finest raot of people in ibis sea ; for fine shap« and regular features they perha^ ;i; il •I 62 COOK'S VOYAGES. [ToT.n. if l! i surpass all other nations. Ncverthe- lesa the alllnity of their language to that spoken in Otaheito and the Society Islands shows that they are originally of the same nation. Oedi- dee could converse with them toler- ably well, though the English could not, and it was obvious that their Janguages were nearly the same. In their manners and arts the people re- sembled the natives of Otahcite, but appeared to be rather less ingenious »nd refined. Forts, or strongholds, iivere acou ou the summits of the highest hills ; but they were not visited by the English, who had not become sutjdciently ac({uainted with the natives to venture into the in- terior. , " Cook, having rediscovered the Marquesas of Mendana, proceeded to Otaheite, and passing by a group, to which he gave the name of Palliser's Islands, and some others which had bcfci: seen by Byron, he anchored in Matavai Bay on the 22d of April. At this time there were no sick on board; but as the island seemed to abound with provisions, our naviga- tor was willing to prolong his stay here. His original stock in trade was, indeed, now exhausted ; but he found that the people of Otaheite sot a great value on the red parrot feathers, of which he had brought a considerable supply from Amsterdam and Middleburg Islands. Ho thus icciden tally learned an advantageous luid easy course of traffic in the South Sea. "Among other entertainments with which our navigators were tieatcd daring this visit to Otaheito was a grand naval review. The vessels of war consistad of 160 great canoes, from fifty to ninety feet in length ; they were decorated with flags and streamers { and the chiefs, together with all those who were on the fight- ing stages, were dressed in their w4r habits. The whole fleet made a noble Appearance, sach as our Voyagers had never before seen, and could not have «xpected in this part of the world. Besides the vessels of war, there wei« 170 aul of smaller doable canora, which seemed to be designed for transports and victuallers. Upon each of them was a small house or shed ; and they were rigged with a mast and sail, which was not the case with the war canoes. Captain Cook estimated, at a moderate com- putation, that there could not be less than 7760 men in the fleet ; but the immense number of natives assembled as spectators astonished the English more than the splendour of the ar- mament, and they were still further surprised to learn that this fleet was the naval force of only one of the twenty districts into which the island is divided. On these equivocal grounds they were led to form an extremely exaggerated calculation ot the population of Otaheite, which they estimated to be at least 200,000 souls ; a number exceeding the truth, perhaps, in the proportion of ten to one. ** From Otaheite our navigators pro- ceeded to visit the Society Islands, at Huaheine. Cook was affectionately received by the old chief Oree, who still carefully preserved the medals, coins, and pewter plate with an in- scription commemorating the voyage, which our commander h ^iven hiin on his former visit. Oedidee, who for seven months had been the faith- ful companion of our voyagers, and had made with them the tour of the Pacific, was put on shore at Ulieteft. He left the English with regret de- monstrative of a strong attachment to them ; and nothing could have torn him from them but the fear of never returning to his native cottntry. He was a fine young man, of a docUe and humane disposition, and of the better class of natives, being nearly related to Opoony, the formidable chief of Borabora. But from his in- experience and imperfect acquiaintance with the traditionary knowledge of his countrymen, but little could be learned from him respeoting their history. " Cook again directed hio conrsis to the west, and iiepeated his visit to the friendly Islands. This namls he gave to a group extending through about 1774.] THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS. le three degrees of latitude and two do- erees of longitude, and comprising Anamooka, which Tasman, who first discovered it, named Rotterdam, Top^taboo or Amsterdam, Eaoowee or Middlebnrg, and Pylstart Islands. But this appellation, to which these islands were entitled by the firm alii- ance and friendship wnich seemed to exist among their inhabitants, and their courteous behaviour to strangers, might perhaps be extended much far* tber, so as to include the Boscawen a. id Keppel Isles discovered by Cap- tain Wallis, and inhabited by people of thp same friendly manners. " Pursuing their course to the west, our navigators discovered on the 16th of July. land, which was justly con- jectured to be the 'Terra Australis del Espirito Santo ' of Quiros. After exploring the coast for a lew days. Cook came to an anchor in a harbour in the Island of Mallicolo. The in- habitants of this island were the most ugly and deformed race which our navigators had yet seen, and differed in every respect from the other inha- bitants of the Southern Ocean. They were dark coloured, of small stature, with long heads, flat faces, and coun- tenances resembling that of a monkey. Their language, a£o, was found not to have any discoverable affinity with that pirevailing through the islands with which the English had any ac- q^uaintance. This people differed likewise from the great Polynesian race hot more by their language and figure than by their scrupulous hon- esty. As bur navigators proceeded to- wards the south fioJoQ Mallicolo, they passed by a group which Cook named Shepherd's Isles. Farther to the south was discovered a large island agreeably diversified with woods and lawns over the whole surface, and ex- hibiting a most beautiful and delight- ful prospect. This our navigator named Sandwich Island in compliment to his friend and jpatron the Earl of Sandwich. Still farther to the south was seen knottier large island, called by the na,tive8 Erromango, which he coasted foir tliree days, knq. then canae to an anchor in the intention of pro- curing a supply of wood and water. This, however, could not be effected without a violent conflict with the natives, who were both fierce and treacherous. It was observed that thev differed from the inhabitants of Mallicolo both in language and phy- sical conformation ; they were well shaped and had tolerable features, but dark coloured, and with hair crisp and somewhat woolly. From this glace Cook sailed for an island which ad been descried some time before at a distance. He found that it waa called Tanna by the inhabitants, from whom also he learned the names of three other islands in its neighbour- hood, Inmer, Erronan, and Anatoa. Two language^ Were found to be spoken in Tanna ; one of them, ' which was said to have been introduced froni Erronan, was nearly the same with that of the Friendly Islands ; the other, which our navigators consi- dered peculiar to Tanna, Erromango, and Anaton, was different from any they had hitherto met with in the course of their researches. The people at Tanna were well proportioned, out not robust. They had good features and agreeable countenances. Though active, and fond of martial exercises^ they seemed incapable of patient labour. It appeared that they prac- tised circumcision, and that they were eaters of human flesh ; though, as their island aoounded with hogs and fowls, and a variiety of fruits, they could not b(8 driven by necessity to adopt this horrid practice. *• Captain Cook devoted above ft month to the survey of this archipel- ago, with which previous navigators had made but a superficial acquaint- ance. The northern islands were discoveted in 1606 by Quiros, who supposed them to be portions of th« great southern continent. Bougain- ville, in 1768, dispelled this idea, though he did not proceed to examine the islan'(k near which he sailed ; but (Daptain Cook, besides ascertaining the extent and situation of the islands already known, explored ihe wholt gi^up ; and, conceiving that in con- sequence he had a rilgfat to name ll «1 64 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY. II. ('■ If them, bestowea on them the appella* tfon of the New Hebrides. *' The season was now approaching when it would be necessary to resume his researches in a high southern lati- tude, and he hastened therefore to New Zealand, where he intended to refresh his people and prepare for a navigation of considerable length. He sailed from the New Hebrides on the 1st of September, and on the 4th discovered land, near which the Keso- lution came to anchor the next day. The inhabitants were a strong, active, and handsome race, bearing some re- semblance to the peoi)le of Tanna, and those of the Friendly Isles. The same mixed character was observed in their language. They had never seen Europeans before) but were friendly and obliging in their behaviour ; and what is still more remarkable in the South Seas, strictly honest in all their dealings. To this island Captain Cook gave the name of New Caleaonia ; and though compelled by necessity to leave it before it was fully surveyed, he had, nevertheless, examined it suffi- ciently to prove, that, excepting New Zealand, it is perhaps the largest island in the South Pacific Ocean. As the Resolution pursued her course from New Caledonia, land was dis- covered, which, on a nearer approach, was found to be an island of good height, and about five leagues in cir- cuit. It was uninhabited, and pro- bably our English navigators were the first persons who had ever set foot on it. In its vegetable productions it bore a close resemblance to New Zea- land. The flax plant of that country was here particularly luxuriant ; but the chief produce of the island was ft majestic species of pine, of such • size that, breast high, two men oonld scarcely clasp the trunk. This little spot was named Norfolk Island. Its fine woods and fertile soil allured, some years later, a party of British settlers ; who finally abandoned it, however, from the inaocessible nature of its coast. " On the 18th of October the Reso- intion came to anchor in Queen Char- lotte's Sound. This was the third time of touching at New Zealand during this voyage. On searching for the bottle which Cook had left behind on his last visit, containing the particu- lars of his arrival, it was found to have been taken away ; and from other circumstances it was evident that the Adventure had visited the harbour after the Resolution had left it. While the Resolution remained here, the in> tercourse maintained with the natives was of the most friendly description. Captain Cook continued his efforts to stock the island with useful animals, and for that purpose ordered a boar and sow to be put on shore. " On the 10th of November he left New Zealand to pursue his voyage to the east. Towards the close of that month, he had reached the Latitude of 55° 48' S., when, deeming it useless to search any longer for : continent in that direction, he bore away for Cape Horn ; and on the 17th of De- cember had sight of Tierra del Fuego. This is the first instance of a run quite across the Soutliern Pacific. It now only remained for our navigator to cross also the Southern Atlantic to the point whence he had commenced his explorations. Having completed his examination of Tierra del Fuego and Staaten Land, he proceeded to- wards the east; and, after a voyage of ten days, land was seen at a dis- tance, nearly covered with snow. On approaching the shore, it was found to be terminated in many places by perpendicular ice cliffs of considerable height. Pieces continually broke off with a noise like the report of cannon, and floated out to sea. The general aspect of the country was savage and horrid in the extreme. The wild rocks raised their lofty summits till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Our navigator, who at first view of this land supposed that it might be a continent, confesses that he was nnt much disappointed on dis- covering his error ; * for to judge of the bulk by the sample, it would not be worth discovering.' In Latitude 59°, and about ei^ht degrees to the east of New Georgia, as this inhofipit 1774.] BARBAROUS TREATMENT able shore was named, land was again seen, presenting an elevated coast, whose lofty snow-clad suniniita reached above the clouds. To this bleak region Cook gave the name of the Southern Thule, as it was the most southern land which had j'et been discovered ; but on leaving the coast ho gave to the whole country the general appel- lation of Sandwich Land, which he concluded to be either a group of islands or a point of the sontliem continent. But the gi-eat (luanlitics of ice which ho met with led Iiiin to infer the existence of a large tract of land near the South Pole. He now sailed as far as the latitude assigned to Bou- vet's supposed discovery ; but no in- dications of land occurred, nor was it possible to believe any lon;2;er iu the existince of Cape Circumcision. '* Cook had now made a circuit of the Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to demonstrate that no southern con- tinent existed unless near the Pole, and beyond the reach of navigation. During this circumnavigation of the globe, from the time of his leaving the Cape of Good Hope to his return to it again, he had sailed no less than 20,000 leagues. On the 13th of July 1775, he landed at Portsmouth, hav- ing been absent from Great Britain three years and eighteen days, during which time, and under all changes of climate, he had lost but four man, and only one of them by sickness. '•It has been related above that Captain Cook, on approaching New Zealand for the second time in the course of this voyage, lost sight of the Adventure, and never joined company with that ship again. Captain Fur- neaux was long batiled by adverse winds in his attempt to reach Queen Charlotte's Sound, which was ap- pointed the rendezvous for the ships in case of separation. At length, on the 30th of November, the Adventure got safe into the desired port. The licsolution not being there, Captain Furneaux and his company began to entertain doubts of her safety ; but on going on shore they observed on an old stomp of a tree these words cut OF CREW OF ADVENTURE. 65 out — • Look underneath.' Thev dag acrordingK, and soon found a bottle corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain Cook, signifying his arrival on the 3d and departure on the 24th. Great exertions were now made to get the Adventure ready for sea, and on the 17th of December, the preparations being completed, Mr Rowe, a midshipman, with nine men, were sent in the large cutter to gather a stock of wild greens for the sliip's company. As the boat did not return the same evening nor the next morn* ing, and the ship was now ready for sea, Mr Burney, the second lieuten- ant, ])rocee(led in search of her in the huuieli, manned with the bout's crew and tt:n marines. The launch pro- ceeded, filing guns into all the coves by way of signals^ but no traces of the cutter were found till they reached Grass Cove. Here a gieat many bas- kets were seen lying on the beach tied up; when cut open, some of them were found to be full of roasted flesh, and some of fern root, which served the natives for bread. On further search, some shoes were picked up and a hand, which was immediately known to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of the forecastle men, the initials of his name being marked on it with an Otaheitan tatooing instru- ment. The natives were collected in considerable numbers round Grass Cove, shouting and inviting the Eng- lish to land, but evidently with no friendly intentions. From their num- bers, and the suspicion which their conduct excited in our people. Lieu- tenant Burney did not deem it pru- dent to trust himself among them ; but he pursued his examination far enough to obtain a melancholy cer- tainty as to the fate of his unfortunate companions. * On the beach, ' he says, * were two bundles of celer)', which bad b«ien gathered for loading the cuvi,v» ; a broken oar was stuck up- right in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes, a proof that the attack had been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach to see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead I. 11 P^ . il 66 COOK'S VOYAGMa. lYoY.IL •■ «: of her such a shucking scene of car* nage and barbarity as can never be nieutioued nor thought of but with liotror ; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our people were seen Iving on the beach ; and, at a little distance, the dogs gnawing their entrails.' The men who had thus (alien victims to the barbarity of the natives were among the healthiest and best of the ship's crew. " The Adventure was detained in the sound tour days after this lament- able occurrence, duri ig which time no natives were seen. On the 28d of December, however, she got to sea ; and in little more than a month reached Cape Horn, being favoured by a strung current running to the east, and by westerly winds which blow continually in the summer season in the great ocean. Captain Furneaux continued his course eastward to the Cape of Good Hope, where he refitted his ship and refreshed his people. He tl: ».n sailed for England, and anchored at Spithead on the 14th of July 1774. " In 1769 some discoveries of im- portance were made in the South Seas by a French mercantile adventurer. TVo ships were fitted out in Bengal by MM. Law and Chevalier for a trading voyage to Peru, and were S laced under the command of M. de urville. While he was preparing to embark, news arrived in India that the English had discovered in the South Sea, 700 leagues from Peru, and in Lat 27° S., an island exceed- ingly rich, and inhabited by Jews. Tms story gained credit, being con- genial to the avaricious cravings of mankind ; and even those who sus- pected fiction in the mention of Jews were still willing to believe that the newly-discovered country was emin- ently rich. Surville, touching at the Bashee Islands, carried off three of the natives to supply the deficiencies of his crew, thus furnishing a conspi- cuous example of that overbeaiing yiolence which has almost universally forced weak and uncivilised 'lotlons to regard Europeans as their natural •aemias. In running to the south- east from New Guinea he diaooTerad land, to which he gave the name of the Land of the Arsacides, and which was, in fact, a part of that long chain of islands that nud already beeu seen by Bougainville, who gave the name of I^ouisiade to the portion which he had oxaniined. Surville, in his inter- course with the natives, found them to be of a fierce, intractable, and treacherous disiiosition, and chose to designate thorn Arsacides, a name which he supposed to bo eauivalent to the word asstissins. Survule after- wards visited New Zealand, and an- chored in a bay, to which he gave the name of Lauriston. Captain Cook, who named it Double Bay, was at the same time employed in surveying its shores, yet these two navigators did not meet nor descry each other. The French commander, having lost his boat while anchoring here, went on shore with an armed party to punish the natives, whom ne supposed to have stolen it. In a short time he burned several villages, and earned off a native chief. This outrage, perpe- trated by some of the first Europeans who visited them, was soon afterwards repaid with cruel reprisals by the New Zealanders. The chief died at Juan Fernandez, and Surville was drowned while going on shore at Val- paraiso. ** The Land of the Arsacides, which Surville had coasted on the north-east- ern side, was again discovered in 1789 by Lieutenant Shortland of the British navy on his voyage from Port Jackson to the East Indies. He followed its southern shores, to which ho gave the name of New Georgia, and passed through the Straits of Bougainville, which he named from himself, being apparently ignorant of the discoveries of the French navigators. The chain of larjje islands thus seen successively and partially by Bougainville, Sur- ville, and Shortland, and which stretch from north-west to south-east, between New Guinea and the New Hebrides, are unquestionably the Salomon Ia> lands of the early Spanish navigators. The Egmont Island of Carteret, who sought the Salomon Islanda, and vh« •o g n 1774.] approached tlirati rery closely witliout beine aware of it, may be cousiderod M belongiug to the srcliipelago. *' It Has been already meutioued that Bougaiuville brought lionio with him to France a native »f Utaheite named Aootooroo. When the fame of Cook's discoveries began to excite a Seneral interest in l!iUro|)0, Captain larion du Frcsne, animated with a desire to emulate the glory of tho English navigator, oir»rcd to take back the OtaLeiteau to his native land from the Isle of France at his own expense. The oiler was accepted, and Kerguelen, a navigator of some note, was commissiuuod to carry Aootooroo to the Isle of France, and then to proceed to examine more care> fully the southern ^art of the Atlantic Ocean. The Otaheitean died at Mada- gascar, but Clarion did not on that account relinquish his plans, but pro- ceeded in tho ardent hope of making some important discoveries. He ar- rived at New Zealand without any accident, and anchored in the Bay of Islands, where his people lived on <;erms of familiarity, and apparently of cordial friendship with the natives ; but some offence was given unawares to the passionate and capricious sav- ages. Marion was murdered, with sixteen officers and men who hod ac- cumpanied him on shore. Another party of eleven men, who were em- ployed cutting wood in a different quarter, were at the sauue time set upon suddenly, and only one escaped to the ships to relate the dismal fate of his companions. When the Fi-encli lauded to seek the remains of their unfortunate commander, the natives insultingly cried to them from their fastnesses, * Tacowry (the chief of the district) has killed and eaten Marion.' After this melancholy accident the ships returned to the Isle of France under the command of M. Ducles- iiieur, all plaus of discovery being abandoned. " Kerguelen, in the meantime, sailed from the Isle of France in January 1772; and, on the 12th of February, discovered in Lat. 60° 5' S., XERGUELEN'S EXPLORAtION& 67 remained six days. During this tim# he was separated from the corrett* which accompanied him. To the bleak and sterile shores which he had discovered he gave his own name ; took formal possession of them for his sovereign ; and, on Ids return to France, described their apnearance in such glowhig terms, that Louis XV., il'.ceived by liis representations, hung to his button-hole, with )>i" own hand, tlie cross of St Louis. Ker- gueleii'c enemies, however, insisted that he hnd seen ice at a distance, and mistaken it for land ; they called on him to show some of the produc- tions of tho country as a ])roof of hui discovery, and insinuated that he had purposely got rid of his comrade that he might be at liberty to indulge in gross fictions. The King, however, afforded him the means of refutinz these aspersions. Kergiielen sailed again to the Southern Atlantic, and, in December 1773, again discovered land : by the 6th of January following he had traced its coasts above eighty leagues. It was, however, a barren, inhospitable, and, in general, an un- approachable shore, aflbrding nothing that could satisfy tho French nation of the imitortance of his discoveries. On his return he was accused of cul- pable indiircrence to the safety of his men and officers, or rather of pur- Eosely exposing those whom he dis- ked to dangers which eventually proved fatal. Being unable to excul- pate himself, he was deprived of his rank and thrown into prison. " No expetUtion, fitted out for the purpose of maritime discovery, had ever equalled that from which Captain Cook had now returned, in the mag< nitude and arduous nature of ita peculiar object ; and none had ever so completely answered its intontionn and performed its task with so little loss of life or injury to the ships. The success of Cook's voyage wat gratifying in the highest degree te those who had patronised the under- taking. The Earl of Sandwich was still at the bead of the Admiralty, and felt naturally disposed to re> high huid, near the ooest of whieh he I ««rd liberally one whosu courage and 1 1 !; n 11 ^ 'I i ! ,i 68 ■ i: l„ M I skill had to well justified his expec- tations. Cook was imuie Jiately raised to tlie rank of post captain, and ob- ttined a more substantial mark of favour, being appoit'ted one of the captains of Greenwich Hospital, which ah"orded him a liberal maintenance and repose from his professional la- bours In February 1776, only a few monti}s after his return, he was elected a Fellow of the Royal Socibty; and on the c\'ening of his first app{?arauce there, a poper was read containing an account of ^he method he had taken to preserve the health of the crew of his llajesty's sliip, the Resolution, during her voycge round the world. The humane and successful attention which Cook bestowed on his shiji's company was soon after rewarded by the Copley medal, a prize annually bestowed by the Royal Society on the author of the best experimental paper of the year. In the discourse which thepresiilent. Sir John Pringle, delivered on the occasion of bestowing the medal, he uses the following em- phatic expressions : " • What inquiry can be so useful as that which has for its object the saving the lives of men ? and where shall we find one more successful than that before us ? Here are no vain boastings of the empiric, nor ingen- ious and delusive theories of the dogmatist ; but a concise and artless, and an uncontested, relation of the means by which, nuder divine favour, Captain Cook, with a company of 118 men, performed a voyage of three years and eighteen days, throughout all the climates from Lat. 52° N., to 71° S., with the loss of only one man by sickness. I would now inquire of the most conversant with the bills of mortality, whether, in the most healthy climate and the best condition of life, they have evei- found so small a number of deaths within that space of time? How great and agreeable, then, must our surprise be, after per- using the histories of long navigations in former days, when so many perish- ed by marine diseases, to find the air •A the »ea acquitted of all malignity ; ^nd, in €ne« tliat a Toyage round tLe COOK'S VOYAGES. world may be (VoY. n. uidei taken with less dat^ger perhaps *,o health than a com- mon tour in Europe.' " The great question as to the ex- istence of a southern continent whs finally set at rest by the result of this voyage ; not but that immense tracks of land might exist in the neighbour- hood of the South Pole. But Cook's researches reduced the limits of the southern continent, if it exist at all within such high latitudes, as com- pletely to dispel all those hopes of unbounded wealth and fertility with which imagination had hitherto graced that undiscovered country. One grand problem still divided the opinions of speculative geographers, and eluded every attempt made at a practical solution. The English nation had always felt a peculiar interest in the question of a noilh-west passage. Their earliest and most constant efforts in the career of discovery were directed towards Hudson's and Baffin's Bays, in search of a communication with the Pacific Ocean, so that they might sail by a shorter navigation to China and Japan. In consequence of the disputes between Mr Dobbs and Cap- tain Middleton, respecting the feasi- bility of the scheme, the agitation of the question was tolerably recent in the public mind, and. Government adopting the views of the former gentleman, a reward of £20,000 was offered by Act of Parliament to those who should discover the desired pass- age. "The British Government, capti- vated with the glory that might result from expeditions destined for the im- provement of science, resolved now to direct its exertions towards the north- west ; and, as a preliminaiy measure, Captain Phipps (r^ftcwards Lord Mul- gi'iive) was despatched towards the North Pole, to ascertain how far navi- gation was practicable in that quarter. After struggling obstinately with in- numerable difticulti*;s and dangers, arising from the quantity of ice that beset Yiim, he was obliged to return, after having penptrated to th« Lati* tude of 80° 30 , or within nine degr«M and a half of the Terreatrial Pol*. Feb. 1776.) PROPOSALS FOR THIRD VOYAGE. 69 "The hope of finding a passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans was not, liowever, abandoned ; and consultations were held by Lord Sandwich with Sir Hugh Palliser and other experienced oflicers, relative to the plan which should be adopted in the expedition, and to the choice of a commander. Captain Cook had earned, by his eminent services, the privilege of honourable repose ; and no one thought of imposing on him, for the third time, the dangers and hardships of a voyage of discoveiy round the world: but being invited to dine with Lord Sandwich, in order that ho might lend the light of his valuable exjierifnce to the \arious particulars under discussion, he was 80 fired with the observations that were made en the benefits likely to redound to science, to navigation, and the intercourse of mankind, from the projected expedition, that he volun- taiUy oil'ered to take the command of it himself. This proposal was too much in accordance with the wishes of Lord Sandwich to be rejected through motives of mere delicacy; and Cajitain Cook was appointed ac- cordingly to the command of the ex- pedition, in February 1776. The Act of Parliament, passed in 1745, which secured a reward of £20, 000 to ships belonging to any of his Majesty's sub- jects, which should make the proposed discovery, was now also amended so as to include ships belonging to hit Majesty, and proceeding in any di- rection, for the old Act referred only to ships which should find a pass- age through iiudson's Bay; whereas Cuok was directed by his instruc- tions to ])roceed into the Pacific Ocean, and to commence his re- searches on the noith-wcst coast of America, in the Latitude of 65°, and not to lose time in exploring rivers or inlets until he hati veached that latitude." 1 1| COOK'S THIED YOTAGR' BOOK L THAT/SACTIONS PROM THE BEGINNING OP THE VOYAGE TILL OTTS DEPARTURE FROM NEW ZEALAND. CHAPTER L Having, on the 9th day of February 1776, received a commission to com- * The account of this voyage was originally published in 1784, in three quarto volumes, the first and second being written by Cook himself, the third by Captain King, who hai I to COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT.TII.B.I.CH.1. Rl I !i^ u i: ill m ■ I nil Discovery, of 800 tons Imrtlien, was fmrcbased into the service, and the command of her given to Captain Clerke, who had been my second lieutenant on board the Resolution in my second voyage round the world, Ihoni which we had lately returned. Those two ships were at this time in tbt dock at Dcptford, under the hands Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1780. Published by Order of the Lords Commissioners of the Admir- alty." In the portion of the work specially ascribed to Captain Cook, however, there are many valuable eontributions from the pen of Mr Anderson, surgeon of the Resolution, usually on the physical features and natural products of the countries visited, the habits, ethnography, and Iftnguage of the inhabitants, kc. In more than one instance the original editor of the book — Dr Douglas, Bishop of Salisbury, who, at the re- quest of Lord Sandwich, undertook that task — preferred Mr Anderson's notes of actual incidents to Cook's own story ; and not without wisdom, as any one will admit who reads the surgeon's account of the dances and entertainments shown off before the white strangers at Haapee (B. II., Oh. v.), and at Tongataboo (B. II., Ch. Vn.). Necessities of space have compelled tlie omission of many pas- sages directly ascribed to Mr Ander- son by Cook himself; but in every case these are scientific and technical in their character, and tho lapse of a century has given us abundant light (m many matters which at the time of Cook^ last voyage were but imper- fectly known, or siiojects of crude and vague speculation. Dr Douglas pre- fixed to the voyage an elaborate intro- ductory treatise on the possibility <^ finding a north -east passage from tho Pacifie to the Atlantic Ocean, and also enriched the volumes with many learned notes, comparatively few of which have been retained in the pre- sent ecUtion, as, dealing with matters of cMitroveray long since fettled, and with noords of travel all but totally forgot* tsn, they could only confuse the reader. of tho shipwrights, being ordered to be equipped to makefurtherdiscoveries in the racific Ocean, under my direction. On the 9th of March the Resolution was hauled out of dock into the river, where we completed her rigging, and took on board the stores and provi- sions requisite for a voyage of such duration. Both ships, indeed, were supplied with as much of every neces- sary article as we could conveniently stow, and with the best of every kind that could be procured. And besides this, everything that had been found by the experience acquired during our former extensive voyages to be of any utility in preserving the health of sea- men, was supplied in abundance.^ It was our intention to have sailed to Long Reach on the 6th of May, when a pilot came on board to cany us thither ; but it was the 29th be- fore the wind would permit us to move, and the 30th before we arrived at that station, where our artillery, powder, shot, and other ordnance stores were received. While we lay in Long Reach thus employed, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others of the Board of Admiralty, as the last mark of the very great attention they had all along shown to this equipment, paid us a visit on the 8th of June, to examine whether everything had been completed con- formably to their intentions and orders, and to the satisfaction of all who were to embark in the voyage. They and several other noblemen and gentlemen, their friends, honoured me with their company at dinner on that day ; and on their coming on board, and also on their going ashore, we saluted thfm with seventeen guns^ and three cheers. With the benevolent view of con- veying some permanent benefit to the inhabitants of Otaheite, and of the * Contrast tho excellence of Cook's equipment and the perfect success of his arrangements for secnring the health of his ships' companira, with the wretched plight in wnich Ansoo left port thirtv-siz years before, and the miserable fate of his crews. JrNEl77«.J EQinPMENT OP RESOLUTIOIT AND DISCOVERY. 71 other islands in the Pacific Ocean, whom we might happen to visit, his Majesty haying commanded some use* fnl animals to be carried out, we took on board, on the 10th, a bull, two cows, with their calves, and some sheep, with hay and com for their subsistence, intending to add to these other useful animals when I should ■rrive at the Cape of Good Hope. I was also, from the same laudable mo- tives, furnished with a sufficient quan- tity of such of our European garden BDtdt as could not fail to be a valuable present to our newly-discovered is- wsds, by adding fresh supplies of food to their own vegetable productions. Mnny other articles calculated to im- prove the condition of our friends in the other hemisphere in various ways, were at the same time delivered to us by order of the Board of Admiralty. And both ships were provided with a proper assortment of iron tools and trinketa, as the means of enabling us to traffic, and to cultivate a friendly interoourse with the inhabitants of iiuch new countries ais we might be fortunate enough to meet with. The same humane attention was iatend«d to our own wants. Some idditional cleth>'^g, adapted to a cold tflimate, was ordered for ova crews ; ind nothing was denied to us that eMld be suppcyed in the least con- dueite to health, or even to conven- in»e. Nor did the extraordinary osre of ti^ose at the head of the naval (tepavtment stop here. They were ^ualiy solicitous to afford us every ttudittanoe towards rendering our toyage of ^nblio utility. According- )ft we received on boacrd, next day, Mveral listroBomical and nautical in- ttmrnents^ which the Board of Longi- tnde intrdsted to nw and to Mr King, nty second lieutenant; We having engaged to that Board to make all iike necessary observations during the Toyage for the improvement of astro- ncnny and navigation, and, by our jdint llabouTS^ to supply the place of a Iv«feMed observator. Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who, to AUl in his immediate profession, added great proficiency in natnsral his- tory, was as willing as he was well qualified to describe everjrthing in tnat branch of science which should occur worthy of notice. As he had already visited the South Sea islands in the same ship, and been of singular service by enabling me to enrich my re- lation of that voyage withvarioususcfnl remarks on men and things, I reason- ably expected to derive considerable as- sistance from him, inrecordingour new proceedings. I had several young men amongst my sea-officers, who, under my direction, could be usefully em- ployed in constructing charts, in tak- ing views of the coasts and headlands near which we should pass, and in drawing plans of the bays and har- bours in which we should anchor. Every preparation being now com- pleted, I received an order to proceed to Plymouth, and to 'take tne Dis- covery under my command, i ac- cordingly gave Captain Gierke two orders ; one to put himself under my command, and the oilier to cavry hi^ ship round to Plymouth. On the 15th, the Resolution sailed from Long Reach, with the Discovery in company, and the same evening they anenored at the Nore. Nejtt day the Discovery proceeded in obedience to my order ; but the Resolution was ordered to re- main at the Nore till I should join her, being at this time in London. As we were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands in oof way to the intended scene of our fresh oper^ tions, it had been determined not to Omit this opportunity (the ohly one ever likely to happen) of carrying Omai back to his native ootintry. Omai left London wil^ a mixture of regret and satisfuction. Wk«n we talked about England, and abont those who, during his stay, had honoured him with their protection or finend- ship, I could observe that his epMtB were sensibly affected, and that it was with difficulty he could refrain from tears. But the instant the c«nt«fia^ tion turned to his own islandBi hii eyes began to sparkle with joy. He was deeply impressed with a sense of the good treatment he had met with in England, and entertained the hitrh. M !? *••, £ >■ 72 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vor.III.B.I.CH.i. I i 1 I if est ideM of the country and of the people. But the pleasing prospect he now had V)efore him of returning home, loaded with what he well knew would be esteemed invaluable treasures there, and the flattering hope which the pos- aession of these gave him of attaining *o a distinguished superiority amongst his countrymen, were considerations which operated by degrees to suppress every uneasy sensation ; and he seemed to be quite happy when he got on board tlie ship. He was furnished by his Majesty with an ample X)rovi- sion of every article which, during our intercourse with his country, we had observed to be in any estimation there, either as useful or as orna- mental. He had, besides, received many presents of tihe same nature from LordS«ndwich, Mr* Banks, and several other gentlemen and ladies of his ac- quaintance. In short, every method had been employed, both during his abode in England, and at his depar- ture, to make him the instalment of conveying to the inhabitants of the islancte of the Pacific Ocean the most exalted opinion of the greatness and generosity of the British nation. On the 25th, about noon, we weighed anchor, and made sail for the Downs, through the Queen's Channel, with a gentle breeze at NW. by W. At nine in the evening we anchored, with the North Foreland bearing S. by E., and Margate Point S\V. by S. Next morning, at 2 o'clock, we weighed and stood round the Foreland. At 8 o'clock the same morning, we anchored in the Downs. Two boats had been built for us at Deal, and I immediate- ly sent on shore for them. I was told that many people had assembled tliere to see Omai ; but, to their great dis- appointment, he did not land. Hav- ing received the boats on board, and a ught breeze at SSE. springing up, we got under sail the next day at 2 o'clock in the afternoon. But the breeze soon died away, and we were obliged to anchor again till 10 o'clock at night. We then weighed, with the wind at east, and proceeded down ^ A flArwarda Sir Joseph. the Channel. On the 80th, at 8 o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored in Plymouth Sound, where the Dis- covery had arrived only three days before. I saluted Admiral Amherst, whose flag was flying on board the Ocean, with thirteen guns, and he returned the compliment with eleven. It was the first object of our care, on arriving at Plymouth, to replace the water and provisions that we had ex- pended, and to receive on board a supply of port wine. This was the emplojrmont which occupied us on the Ist and 2d of July. It could not but occur to us as* singular and alFecting circumstance, that at the veiy instant of our de- parture upon a voyage, the object of which was to benefit Europe by making fresh discoveries in Nortn America, there should be the unhnpi)y necessity of employing others of his Majesty's ships, and of conveying numerous boaies of land forces, to secure the obedience of those parts of that continent which had been dis- covered and settled by our country* men in the last century. On the 6th, his Majesty's ships Diamond, Ambus- cade, and Unicorn, with a fleet of transports, consisting of sixty-two sail, bound to America, with the last division of the Hessian troops, and some horse," were forced into the Sound by a strong north-west wind. On the 8th, I received by express, my instructions for the voyage, and ai) order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Resolution. I was also directed to leave an order for Captain Clerke to follow us, as soon as he should join his ship ; he be- ing, at this time, detained in London. The Kesolution was fitted out with the same complement of officers and men she had before ;' and the Dis- covery's establishment varied from that 'of the Adventure, in the single instance of her having no marine * To reinforce Sir William Howe^ then confronting General Washings ton, near New York. " In netting out on the second foy- agein 1772. .i . . n al /ULT 177G J CHEWS or RESOLUTION AND DISCOVERY. rfScer on board. This arrangement was to be finally completed at Ply- mouth ; and, on the 9th, we received the party of marines allotted ior our roya^e. Colonel IJell, who com- manded the division at this port, gave me such men for the detach- 78 ment as I had reason to be satisfied with. And the supernumerary sea- men, occasioned by this reinforce- ment, being turned over into the Ocean man-of-war, our several com- plements remained fixed, as repre- sented in the following table : RESOLUTION. DISCOVERY. j Officers and Men. No. 1 Officer!! Kamci, No. 1 Officers* Nanui. Captain, James Cook. • Charles Clerke. Lieuteqanto, . . 3 John Gore. . James King. . John Williamson. , 2 James IJurney. John Rickman. Master, • 1 William Bligh.i . Thomas Edgar. Boatswain, . 1 William Ewin. Eneas Atkins. Carpenter. 1 James Clevely. Peter Reynolds. Gunner, 1 Robert Anderson. , 1 William Peck over Surgeon, 1 William Anderson. 1 Jolin Law. Master's Matee, 3 • • • • Midshipmen, 6 4 Surgeon's Mates, . 2 Captain's Clerk, . 1 ^ Master at Armn, . 1 \ Corporal, , . 1 Armourer, . 1 Ditto 3^1 ate, . 1 1 Sailmaker, . 1 1 Ditto Mate, . 1 1 Boatswain's Mates, 8 2 ^ Carpenter's Ditto, . 3 i ' inner's Ditto, 2 ' Carpenter's Crew, . Cook, . 4 ' 1 t ' ' ' ■ Ditto Mate, . 1 : ' Quarter-Masters, . 6 4 • ( * * '.• Able Seamen, . 46 83 ' ' J '': Marines. *\ ' ' 1 » , ' LientenaoJi, . . 1 Molesworth Philips. , , Sergeant, 1 • • • . 1 i Corporals, 2 • • • . 1 ■>',,-/ Drummer, . , 1 • • • . 1 t ' ' 1 »1 Privates, 15 • * • • 8 ■ ■■■:!* ' Total, 112 , ( '. _. i • • :• i. 'so ■ * • /- ^ Afterwards captain of the Bounty, famous for his voyage of nearly 4000 miles in an open boat, into which he and twenty of his crew had been foroed after the mutiny on board that TeM««0. l! f ^1 ! '^ 3 m i ii I \i f ! '.i il !l, .^ I'- 1 1, in u COOK'S VOYAGES. (Tot. III. B. 1. Oh. H. '.. ' ' 'U On the lOlk, the oomroissioner and pay-clerks came on board, and paid tbfc officers and crew up to the 30th of last month. The petty officers and seamen had, besides, two months' wages in advance. Such indulgence to the latter, is no more than what is cus* toniary in the navy. But the pay- ment of what was due to the superior officers was humanely ordered by the Admiralty, in consideration of our peculiar situation, that we might be better able to defray the very great expense of furnishing ourselves with a stock of necessaries for a voy- age which, probably, would be of unusual duration, and to regions where no supply could be expected. Nothing now obstructing my de- parture but a contrary wind, which blew strong at S\y., in the morning of the 11th, I delivered into the bands of Mr Bumey, first lieutenant of the Discovery, Captain Gierke's sailing orders, a copy of which I also left with the officer commanding his Majesty's ships at Plymouth, to be delivered to the captain immediately on his arrival. In the afternoon, the wind moderating, we weighed with ebb, and ^ot farther out, beyond all the shipping in the Sound, where, after making an unsuccessful attempt to get to sea, we were detained most of the following day, vhich was em- ployed in receiving on board a supply of water ; and, by the same vessel that brought it, all the empty casks were returned. We weighed again at eight in the evening, and stood out of the Sound, with a gentle breeze at NW. by W. CHAPTER II. ■ ■' We had not been long out of Ply- mouth Sound before the wind came more westeily, and blew fresh, so that we were obliged to ply^ down the Channel ; and it was not till the 14th, * To "ply," in nautical terminology, ii to boat to windwatd, or sail against ftie direction 6i th6 wind by alterhate taclra. at eight in the evening, that we wen off the Lizard. On the 16th, at noon, St Agnes's Lighthouse, on the Islei of Scilly, bore NW. byW., distant seven or eight miles. On the 17th* and 18th we were off TTshant. With a strong gale at S. on the 19th, we stood to the westward till 8 o'clock in the morning, when, the wind shifting to the W. and S\V., we tacked and stretched to the southward. At this time we saw nine sail of large ships, which we judged to be French men- of-war. They took no particular notice of us, nor we of them. At 10 o'clock in the moritlng of the 22d, we saw Cape Ortcgal. After two days of oalm weather we passed Cape Finis- terre, on the afternoon of the 24th, with a fine gale at NNB. On the 30th, at six minutes and thirty-eight seconds past 10 o'clock at night, ap- parent time, I observed with a nignt telescope the moon totally eclipsed. By the ephemeris,' the same happened at Greenwich at nine minutes past 11 o'clock, the difference being one hour, two minutes, and twenty-two seconds, or 1 5° 35' 30" of Longitude. No other observation could be made on this eclipse, as the moon was hid behind the clouds the greater part of the time ; and, in particular, when the beginning and end of total darkness and the end of the eclipse happened. Finding that we had not nay and com sufi^cient for the subsistence of the stock of 4nimals on board till our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, I determined to touch at iTenerine to get a supply of these and of the usual refreshments for ourselves, tliinking that island, for such purposes, better adapted than Madeira. At four in the afternoon of the 31st we saw Teneriffe, and steered for the eastern part. At .... - ■ ■ ^, ■ ■ ' - - . ■_..i — - ■ I 1 ■_«■■* ' It appears from Captain Cook'a log-book that he began nis judicious operations for preserving the health 01 his crew very early in the voyage. On the 17th the ship was smoked be- tween decks with gunpowder. The snare sails also were then well aired. — JVoU i^ Otiff-tnal JEditiom. • Nfttftlcal ahnanaft. '' ' ' ■<'"■ kva.ll7H.) nr THE ROAD OP SAKTA CRUZ. 76 ttiae, being near it, we hauled up, and stood off and on during the night. At daylight on the morning of the 1st of August we sailed roiuid the east point of the island, and al)out 8 o'clock an- chored on the SE. side of it, in the road •f Santa Cruz, in twenty-three fathoms water, the bottom sand and ooze. No sooner Iiad we anchored than we were visited by the master of the port, who satisfied himself with ask- ing the ship's name. Upon his leav- ing us, I sent an officer ashore to present my respects to the Governor, and to ask his I. ?.ve to take in water, and to purcV ■': articles as we Were in want i^' . ♦his he granted with the greatest p eness, and soon after sent an officer ou board to com- pliment me on my arrival. In the irfternoon I waited upon him in pf^r- aon, accompanied by some of my officers ; and, before 1 returned to my fillip, bespoke some com and straw for the live stock ; ordered a qiaantity of wine from MrM'Carrick, the contrac- tor ; and made an agreement with the Blaster of a Spanish boat to supply us with water, as I found that we conld Aet do it ourselves. Were we to judge from the appear- ance of the country in the neigh bonr- kood of Santa Cruz, it might be ton- duded that TeneriiFe is a barren spot, insufficient to maintain even its own inhabitants. The ample supplies, how- erer, which we received, convinoetillocks alive, and paid couaideiably BiOTO. Hogs, she^, goats, and poul- try, are likewise to be bought at the ■iime moderate rate; and fruits are in great plenty. At this time we had grapes, figs, pears, mulberries, plaa- taina» and musk melons. There is a f)Mifi7 of other fraits produced here, liioiipinotinseasonatuustLme. Their pampkinst onions, and potatoes «areex- ceedingly good of their kind, and keep better at sea than any I ever before met w''£h. The Indian com, which is also their produce, cost me about three shillings and sixpence a bushel ; and the fruits and roots wore, in general, very cheap. They have not any plen- tiful supply of fish from the adjoining sea, but a very considerable fishery is canied on by their vessels upon the coast of Barbary, and the produce of it sells at a reasonable price. Upon the whole, I found Teneriffe to be a more eligible place than Madeira for ships bound on long voyages to touch at, though the wine of the latter, ac- cording to my taste, is as much supe- rior to that of the fonner as strong beer is to small. To compensate for this, the difference of prices is con- siderable, for the best Teneriffe wiuo was now sold for twelve pounds a pipe, whereas a pipe of the best Ma- deira would have cost considerably more than double that sum.^ CHAPTER III Having com tleted our water, and got on board every other thing we wanted at Teneriffe, we weighed an- chor on the 4th of August, and pro- ceeded on our voyage, with a fine gale at NE. At 9 o'clock in the evening rived well and healthy. [Here the history of an excursion into the country, narrated by Mr Anderson, is omitted, with the exception of a passage describing a remaikable stone or rock.] "In the afternoon we went to see a stone of a remarkable size, called by the inhabit Us the Tower o( Babylon, or the . carl Diamond. U lies, or stands, upon the top of 8oiu9 low hills, at the foot of which our farm-house^ was situated; and though the road to it is neither very steep nor rugged, we were above an hour and a half in walking to it It is of an oblong shape, rounded on the top^ and lies nearly south and north. The east and west sides are steep and almost perpendicular. The south end is likewise steep, and its greatest height is there ; from whence it declines gently to the north part, b; which we ascended to its top, an< had an extensive view of the whola country. Its circumference, I think, must be at least half-a-mile ; as it took us above half-an-hour to walk round it, including every allowance for the bad road and stopping a little. At its highest part, which is the south end, comparing it with a known ob- ject, it seems to equal the dome of Sft Paul's Church. It is one uninter- ru])tcd mass or stone, if we except some fissures, or rather impressions, not above three or four feet deep, and ^ Where the party had their qw» ters on the previous night I PBC.1776.J fi yein which raus across nnar its north end. It is of that sort of stone called by mineralogists Saaum eon- glutinatum, and consists chiefly of Eieces of coarse quartz and glimmer, eld together by a clayey cement. But the vein which crosses it, though of tlie same materials, is much com* pacter. This rein is nut above a foot Droad or thick, and its surface is cut into little squares or oblongs, disposed obliquely, which makes it look like the remains of some artificial work. But I could not observe whether it penetrated far into the large rock, or was only superficial. In deacending, we found at its foot a very rich black mould ; and on the sides of the hills, some trees of a considerable size, natives of the place, which are a species of olea." On the 23d, we got on board the tbeervatory, clock, &c.^ DEPARTURE FROM THE CAPE. 7» CHAPTER IV. AiTBR the disaster which happened to our sheep,' it may be well supposed I did not trust those that remained long on shore, but got them and the other cattle on board as fast as pos- ■ible. I also added to my original stock by purchasing two young bulls, two heifers, two young stone-horses, two mares, two rams, several ewes and goats, and some rabbits and poultry. All of them were intended wr New Zealand, Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands, or any other places, in the course of our voyage, where there might bo a prospect that the leaving any of them would be use- All to posterity. Towards the latter emd of November * The rest of the Chapter, omitted, consists of purely technical accounts of astronoijiical observations, and nautical remarks on the passage from England to the Cape, with regcird to the currents and the variation. • "Some dogs haying got in amongst tiiem, forced them out of the pen, kul- ing four, and dispersing the resU" the calkers had finished their wvrk on board the Discovery, and she had received all her provisions and water. Of the former, both 8hii)s had a supply sufticieut for two years and upwanU. And every other article we could think of necessary for such a voyage, that co'.ild be had at the Cape, wai? procured, neither knowing when nor where we inif^ht come to a place where we cuuld furnish ourselves so well. Having given Captain Clerke a cony of my instructions, and an order directing him how to proceed in cose of separation, in the morning of the 30th we repaired on board. At five in the afternoon a breeze sprung up at SE., with which we weighed and stood out of the bay. At nine it fell calm, and we anchored between Pen- guin Island and the eaat shore, where we lay till 8 o'clock next morning. We tlien weighed and put to sea, wiui a light breeze at S. ; but did not get clear of the land till the morning of the 3d [of December], when, with a fresh g«de at WN W. , we stood to the SE. to get more into the wa} of these winds. On the 5th, a sudden squall of wind carried away the Resolution's mizzen- topmast. Having another to replace it, tlie loss was not felt, especially as it was a bad stick, and had often com* Elained. On the 6th, in the evening, eing then in the Latitude of 39" 14'$., and in the Longitude of 23" 56' E,, we passed through several small spots of water of reddish colour. Some of this was taken up, and it was found to abound with a small animal, which the microscojie discovered to be like a cray-fish, of a reddish hue. We continued our course to the SE., with a very strong gale from the westward, followed by a mountainous sea, which made the ship roll and tumble ex- ceedingly, and gavr us a great deal of trouble to preserve the cattle we had on boarJ. ^Notwithstanding all our care, several goats, especially the males, died, and some sheep. This misfortune was, in a great measure, owing to the cold, which we now began most sensibly to feeL On the 12th, at noon, we saw lan4 extending from SE. by S. to &JL by & i 1 i 80 COOKS VOYAGES. [Tot. HI. B. I.Ch. IV. I « Uron A Mftrer appronch we found it to be tvo islands. That wlii( h lies most to tho south, and is nlso the largest, I jtid^'ed to Ite about liltecn leagui's in circuit, uud f) b«> iu the I^titudo of 4fr r)3' S., and in tho Longi- tudt of 37° 40' IL The most uortliftrly one is about nine leagues in circuit, and lies in tho Latitude of 46' 40' S., and in OS'S' K. Longitude. The dis- tance from the one to the other is about five leagues. We passed through this channel, at equal distance from both islands, and could not discover, with the assistance of our best glasses, either tree or shrub on either of them. They seemed to iiave a rocky and bold shore ; and excejiting tho south-east pfirts, where the land is rather low and flat, a surfaces composed of barren mountains, whicih rise to a consider- able height, and whose summits and sides were covered with snow, which in many places seemed to be of a con- jiderable dei)th. The south-east parts had a much greater quantity on them than the rest, owing, probably, to the sun acting for a h^ss s]»ace of time on these than on the north and north- tvest parts. The ground, where it ^as not hid by the snow, from the various shades it exhibited, may be supposed to be covered with moss, or, perhaps, such a coai-se grass as is found in some parts of Falkland's Islands. On the north side of each of the islands is a detached rock ; that near the south island is shaped like a tower, and seemed to be at some dis- tance from the shore. As we passed along, a quantity of sea-weed was seen, and the colour of the water in- dicated soundings. But there was no appearance of an inlet, unless near the rock just mentioned ; and that, from its smallness, did not promise a good anchoring-place. These two islands, as also four others which lie from nine to twelve degrees of longi- tude more to the east, and nearly in the same latitude, were discovered by Captains Marion du Fresne andCrozet, French navigators, in January 1772, on thoir passage in two ships from the Chve of G«>oid Hope to the Philip- {line Islands. As they have no names in the French chart of the southera hemisphere, which Captain Crozet communicated to mo iu 1775, 1 shall distinguish the two we now saw by calling them Prince Edward's Islands, after his Majesty's fourth son ; and the other four by the name of Marion 'n and Cro/ct's Islands, to commemorate their discoverers. We had now, 'or the most part, strong gales between the north and west, and but very indifferent weather, not better, indeed, than we generally have in Englfind in the very depth of winter, though it was now the middle of summer in this hemisphere. Not discouraged, however, by this, after leaving Prince Eilward's Islands I shaped our course to pass to the southward of the others that I might get into the latitude of the land dis- covered by Monsieur de Kerguelen. I had applied to the Chevalier de Borda, whom I found at Teneriffe,* requesting that if he knew anything of fito island discovered by Monsieur de Kerguelen, between the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland, he would be so obliging as to communi- cate it to me. Accordingly, just be- fore we sailed from Santa Cruz Bay, he sent me the following account of it, viz. : "That the pilot of the Bous* sole, who was in the voyage with Monsieur de Kerguelen, had given him the latitude and longitude cf a little island, which Monsieur de Kerguelen called the Isle of Rendezvous, and which lies not far frcm the great island which he saw. Lp.titude of the little isle, ht seven obscivations, 48° 26' S. ; Longi- tude, by seven observations of the dis- tance of the sun and moon, 64° 67' E. from Paris. " I was very soriy I had not sooner knovsoi that there was on board the frigate at Tenerifte an officer who had been with Monsieur de Ker- guelen, especially the pilot, because from him I might have obtained more interesting information about this land than the situation alone, of which I was not before entirely ignorant. ^ In command of the French frigate La Boussole, ridiLg in the road of Santa Cms. ler le lia lb My instructions directing mo to ouituine it, with a view to discover a good harbour, I proceecli'd iu tlio ■carch ; ami du the Ifith, being then in the Lutituile ut' 48' 45' tS., and In the Longitude of 62' E., we saw Senguins and divers, and rock-weed oating in tlie sea. We continued to meet with more or leas of these every day as we proceeded to the eastward ; and on the 21st, in the Latitude of 48" 27' S., and in the Longitude of 65° E., a very lar^e seal was seen. We had now much fo''gy weather, and as wo expected to fall in witli the land every hour, our navigation be- came both tedious and dangerous. At length on the 24th, at 6 o'clock in ihe morning, as we were steering to the eastward — the fog clearing away a little — wo saw land,^ bearing SSE., which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be an island of considerable height, and about three leagues iu circuit. Soon after we saw another of the same magnitude one leaguo to the eastward ; and between these two, in the direction of SE., some smaller ones. In the direction of S. by E. half E., from the east end of the first island, a third high island was seen. At times, as the fog broke away, we had the appearance of land over the small islands, and I had thoughts of steering for it by running in between them. But on drawing nearer, I found this would be a dangerous at- tempt while the weather continued foggy. For if there should be no passage, or if we should ni .et with any sudden danger, it would have been impossible for us to get oflF, the wind being right astern, and a prodi- gious sea running that broke on all the shores in a frightful surf. At the same time, seeing another is' .nd in the noi'th-east direction, aud not knowing but that there might be more, I judged it prudent to haul off ^ Certain Cook was not the original discoverer of these small islands which he now fell in with, it is certain that they had been seen and nanitd by Kerguelen, on his second voyage, in December 1773. THE ISLE OF RENDEZVOUS. 81 and wait for clearer weather lest we should get entangled amongst un- known lands in a thick fog. We did but just weather the island last men- tioned. It is a high round rock, which was named liligh's Cap. Perhaps this is the same that Alonsieur de Kerguelen called the Isle of Rendez- vous, "■' but I know nothing that can rendezvous at it but fowls of the air, for it is certainly inaccessible to every other animal. At 11 o'clock the weather began to clear up, and we immediately tacked, and steered in for the land. At noon we had a pretty good observation, which enabled us to determine the latitude of Bligh's Cap, which is the northernmost island, to be 48° 29' S., and its longitude 63° 40' E. We passed it at 3 o'clock, standing to the SSE., with a fresh gale at W. Soou after we saw the land, of which we had a faint view in the morning ; and at 4 o'clock it extended from SE. half E. to SW. by S., distant about four miles. The left extreme, which I judged to be the northern point oi this land, called in the French chart of the southern hemisi)here. Capo St Louis, ^ terminated in a perpendicular rock of a considerable height ; and the right one (near which is a detached rock) in a high indented point. From this point tlie coast seemed to tnrn short round to the southward ; for we could see no land to the westward of the direction in which it now bore to us, but the islands we had obser\'ed the most southerly in the morninf, ; ' This isle, or rock, was the single point about which Captain Cook had received the least information at Tene- riffe ; and we may observe how saga- cious he was in tracing it. Kergue- len 's words are : "Isle de Reunion, 3ui n'est (ju'une Roche, nous servoit e Rendezvous, ou de point de ral- liement, et ressemble i un coin de mire." — Note in Original Edition. ^ Cook is here declared by his editor to be in error ; the northern point he here describes being really that t« which tho French had given the name of Cape Francois. F ' .m ■'t WP 1 !'i I, i I 11 i;" :■(: M-' I I 3 i f I i I ! 82 BOOK'S VOYAGES. 9i them lying nearly west from the point, about two or three leagues dis- tant About the iniddle of the land there appeared to be an inlot, for which we steered ; but, on approaching, found it was only a bending on the coiust, and therefore bore up, to go round Cape St Louis. Soon after, laud opened off the cape, in the direction of S. 53° E., •nd appeared to be a point at a con- siderable distance ; for the trending of tlie coast f'om the cape was more southerly. We also saw several rocks and island" to the eastward of the above ditei-uons, tiie most distant of which was about seven leagues from the cape, bearing S. 88° E. We had no sooner got off the CK])e, than we observed the coast to the southward to be much indent'ed by projecting points and bays ; so that we now made sure of soon finding a good harbour. Ac- cordingly, we had not run a mile farther, befoie we discovered one be- hind the ca])e, into which we began to ply ; but after making one board, it fell calm, and we anchored at the entrance in forty- five fathoms water, the bottom black sand ; as did the Discovery soon after. I immediately despatched .Air Bligh, the master, in a boat to sound the liarbour ; who, on his return, rei)orted it to be safe and commodious, with good anchorage in every part, and great plenty of fresh water, seals, penguins, and other birds on the shore, but not a stick of wood. While we lay at anchor, we observed tjiflt the flood tide came from the SE., running two knots at least, in an hour. At daybreak in the morning of the 25th,we weighed with a gentle breeze at W., and having wrought into the harbour, to within a quarter of a mile of the sandy beach at its head, we anchored in e'ght fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark sand. The Dis- covery did not get in till 2 o'clock in the afternoon ; when Captain Clerke informed me, that he had narrowly escaped bei'^g driven on the south point of the narbour, his anchor hav- ing started before they had time to shorten in the cable. This obliged them to set sail, and drag the anchor after them, till they had room to froT.in.Rl.Cn.IV. heave it up; and then they found one of its palms was broken off. As soon as we had anchored, I orderf-d all the boats to be hoisted out ; the ship to be moored with a kedge an- chor : and the water-casks to be got ready to send on shore. In the mean- time I landed, to look for the most convenient spot where they might be filled, and to see what else the place afforded. I found the shore, in a manner, covered with penguins and oth<)r birds, and seals. Tliese latter weve not numerous, but so inpensible of fear (which plainly indicated that they were anaccu'-tomed to such visi- tors), that wo killed as many as we chose, for the sake of their fat or blubber, to make oil for our lamps, and other uses. Fresh water was in no loss plenty than were birds ; for every gully afforded a large stream, liut not a single tree or shnib, nor the least sign of any, waa to be dis- covered, and but very little herbage of any sort. Before I returned to my ship, I ascended the first ridge of rocks, which rise in a kind of amphi- theatre above one another. I was in hopes, by this means, of obtaining a view of the country ; but before I reached the top, there came on so thick a fog, that I could hardly find my way down again. In the evening, we hauled the seine at the head of the harbour, but caxight only half-a- dozen small fish. We had no bettei success next day, when we tried with hook and line. So that our only re- source here, for fresh provisions, was birds, of which there was an inex- haustible store. The morning of the 2Cth proved foggy, with rain. However, we went to work to fill water, and to cut grass for our cattle, which we found in small spots near tlie lead of the har- bour. The rain whi.h fell swelled all the rivulets to such a degree, that the sides of the hills bounding the harbour seemed to be covered with a sheet of water. For the rain, as it fell, run into the fissures and ciags of the rocks that composed the Interior parts of the hills, and was precipitated down their sides in prodigiow tor» Dec. 1776.] KERGUFLEN'S rents. The people }iaving wrought hard the two preceJiug days, and nearly completed our water, which we filled from a brook at tho left corner of the beach, I allowed them the 27th as a day of rest, to celebrate Christmas. Upon this indulgence, many of them went on shore, and made excursions, in dilFerent direc- tions, into the country, which llioy found barren and desolate in the high- est degree. In the evening, one of them brought to me a quart bottle which he had found, fasLoned with some wire to a projecting rock on the north side of the harbour. Tiiis bottle contained a piece of parch- ment, on which was written tiie fol- lowing inscription : "Ludovuo XV Galliarvm rege, et d.^ de Boynes regi a Sccretis ad rca maritimas annis 1772 rf 17 DO tl From thi? inscription, it is clear that we were not the first Europeans who had been in this harbour. 1 sup- S)sed it to be left by Monsieur de oisguehenneu, who went on shore in a boat on the 13th of February 1772, the same day that Monsieur de Kerguelen discovered this land.* As a memorial of our having been in this harbour, I wrote on the other sido of the parchment : * The (d), no doubt, is a contraction of iho word Domino. The French Secretary of the Alaiine was then Monsieur do Boynos. * The botil'i and inscription were really left nearly two j-ears later, in January 1774, when Kerguelen, on his second voyage, by M. de Roche- guie, one of his officers, took posses- ■ion of the country, with all the requisite formalities, in the name of the King of France. As the French ahips had arrived on the coast in December 1773, it was natural that the inscription should refer to that ▼•ar rather than the following, as barring possible claims by rival nayi- gators. LAND VISITED. 83 •* Naves Eesolution> et Discovery dn Eer/e Magnce Britanninf Jjccembris 1770." I then put it again into a bottle, to* gether with a silver twopenny piece of 1772 ; and having covered tho mouth of the bottle with a leaden cap, I placed it, the next morning, in a pile of stones erected for the pur- pose, upon a little eminence on the north shore of the harbour, and neap to tho place where it was tirst found ; in which position it cannot escape the notice of any European whom chance or ,L.>-ign may bring into this port. Here I displayed the Uritish flag, and named the place Christmas Harbour, from our haAing anived in it on that festival. After I had finished this business of the inscription, I went in my boat round tho harbour, and landed in several jilaces, to examine what the shore alForded, and i>articularly to look for drift wood. For although the land here was totally destitute of trees, this might not be tho case in other p;irts ; and if there were any, the torrents would force some, or, at least, some branches, into the sea, which would afterward throw them upon the shores, as in all other countries where there is wood, and in many where there is none ; but throughout the whole extent of the harbour I found not a single piece. In the afternoon, I went upon Cape St Louis, ^ accompanied by Mr King, my second lieutenant. I was in hopes, from this elevation, to have had a view of the sea coast, and of the islands lying olf it. But, when I got up, I found every distant object below me hid in a thick fog. Tha land on the same plain, ^ or of a greater height, was visible enough, and appeared naked and desolate in the highest degree, except some hills to the southward, which were covered with snow. When I got on board, I found the launch hoisted in, the ships unmoored, and ready to put to sea ; Cape Fran9ois. *LeTeL '! Ill m but OUT sailing was deferred till 6 o'clock the next morning, when we weighed mchor. CHAPTER T.> Bbivo desirous of getting the length of Cape George," to be assured whether or no it was the most southerly point of the whole land, I continued to stretch to the south, under all the sail we could carry, till half-an-hour past 7 o'clock [December 30] ; when, seeing no likelihood of accomplisliing my design, as the wind had by this time shifted to WSW., the very di- rection in which we wanted to go, I took the advantage of the shifting of the wind, and stood away from the coast. At this time. Cape George bore S. 53° W., distant about seven leagues. A small island that lies off the pitch of the cape, was tiie only land we could see to the south of it ; and we were further confirmed that ♦■here was no more in that quarter, by a SW. swell which we met as soon as we brought the cape to bear in this direction. But we have still a stronger proof that no part of this land can extend much, if at all, to the southward of Cape George ; and that is, Captain Fumeaux's track in February 1773, * This Chapter is almost entirely de- voted to a minute account of Captain Cook's examination of the coast of Kerguelen's Land, and to Mr Ander- son's observations on the natural products, the animals, the soil, &c., of that remote and unprofitable re- gion. The present interest of these matters is so slight, that there is no loss in the omission of the Chapter, with the exception of a brief passage, in which Cook affirms the insularity of Kerguelen's Land, described at first by its discoverer as a magnificent continent. ' So called by Captain Cook in honour of the King ; it is placed by liim in Latitude 49' 54' 3., Longi- tnde 70* 13' £. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. Ill B. 1. ^ortuned me to kill him ; and, 1 ht^lieve, tboy were not a little sur- prised that I did not listen to them ; for, according to their ideas of equity, tills ouglit to have been done. But if 1 had followed the advice of all our pretended friends, I might have ex- tirpated tlie whole race ; for the people of each hamlet or village, by turns, applied to me to destroy the other. One would have almost thought it impossible that so striking a proof of the divided state in which this miserable people live could have been assigned. A nd yet I was sure that I did not misconceive the meaning of those who made these strange appli- cations to me ; for Oniai, whoso lan- guage was a dialect of their own, and perfectly understood all that they said, was our interpreter. On the 16th, I made an excursion in my boat to look for grass, and visited the "hippah," or fortified village,^ at the SW. point of Motunra, and the places where our gardens ha*l been planted on that island. Thert were no people at the former ; but the houses and pallisades had been rebuilt, and were now in a state of good repair ; and there were other evident marks of its having been in» li bited not long before. -Vhen the Adventure arrived first at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in 1773, Mr Bayly fixed upon this place for making his observations ; and he and the people with him, at their leisure hours, planted several s]iot8 with English garden seeds. Not the least vi'stige of these now remained. It ii probable th at they had been all rooted out to mako room for buihlings, when the village was re-inhabited ; for at all the other gardens then ])lantcd by Captain Furneaux, al- though now wholly overrun with the weeds of the country, we found cabbages, onions, leeks, purslane, radishes, mustard, &c., and a few l)otatoes. These potatoes, which were first brought from the Cape of Good Hope, had been greatly im- proved by change of soil ; and, with proper cultivation, would be superior to those pi-oduced in most other countries. Though the New Zea- landers are fond of this root, it wa« evident that they had not taken the trouble to plant a single one (much less any other of the articles which we had introduced) ; and if it were not for the difficulty of clearing ground where potatoes had been once planted, there would not have been any now remaining. On the 16th, at daybreak, I set out with a party of men, in five boats, to collect food for our cattle. Captain ^ Of which a minute description is given in the account of Cook's first voyage, in Hawkesworth's Collection. The hippahs, or pahs, of New Zea- land have become painfully familiar to English minds by the experiences of the late war in t>^t colony .t A- w^ 92 €500K'S VOYAGES. [VoT.nT.B.I.CH.Va ;l i .'i;i 11 Gierke, and leveral of the officers, Omai, and two of the natives, accom- panied mo. We proceeded about three leagues up the sound, and then landed on tlio east side, at a place where I had formerly been. Here we cut us much grass as loaded the two launches. As we returned down the sound, wo visited Grass Cove, the memorable scene of the massacre of Captain FurneaHx's people. We stayed here till the evening, when, having loaded the rest of the boats with grass, celery, scurvy-grass, &c., we embarked to return to the sliips. We had prevailed upon Pedro to launch liis canoe and accompany us ; but wo had scarcely put oft' from the shore, when the wind began to blow very hard at NW., which oVdiged him to put back. Wo proceeded our- selves, but it was with a good deal of difficulty that we could reach the ships, where some of the boats did not arrive till 1 o'clock the next morning; and it was fortunate that they got on board then, for it after- ward blew a perfect storm, with abun- dance of rain, so that no manner of work could go forward that day. In ths evening the gale ceased, and the wind having veered to the east, brought with it fair weather. The next day we resumed our works ; the natives ventured out to catch fish; and Pedro, with all his family, came and took up his abode near us. This chief's proper name is Matahouah; the other being given him by some of my people during my last voyage, which I did not know till now. He was, however, equally well known amongst his countrymen by both names. On the 20th, in the forenoon, we had another storm from the NW. Though this was not of so long con- tinuance as the former, the gusts of wind from the hills were far more violent, insomuch that we were obliged to strike the yards and top- masts to the very utmost; and, even with all this precaution, it wa-s with difficulty that we rode it out. These •torma are very frequent here, and tnmetimnu Tiolent and troublesome. The ueighbonring mountains, which at these times are always loaded with vapours, not only increase the force of the wind, but alter its direction in such a manner, that no two blasts follow each other from the same quar* ter; and the nearer the shore, the more their eftects are felt. The next day we were visited by a tribe or family consisting of about thirty persons, men, women, and children, who came from the upper part of the sound. I had never seen them be* fore. The name of their chief was Tomatongeauooranuc, a man of about forty-five years of age, with a cheerful open countenance; and, indeed, the rest of his tribe were, in general, the handsomest of the New Zealand race I had ever met with. By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabit* ants of the sound had settled them- selves about us. Great numbers of them daily frequented the ships and the encampment on shore; but the latter became by far the most favourite place of resort, while our people there were melting some seal blubber. No Greenlander was ever fonder of train oil than our friends here seem to be. They relished the very skimmings of the kettle and dregs of the casks; but a little of the pure stinking oil was a delicious feast, so eagerly de* sired, that I supposed it is seldom enjoyed. Having got on board as much hay and grass as we judged sufficient to serve the cattle till our arrival at Otaheite, and having completed the wood and water of both ships, on the 23d we struck our tents, and carried everything off from the shore; and next morning we weighed anchor and stood out of the cove. But the wind not being very fair, and finding that the tide of ebb would be spent before we could get out of the sound, we cast anchor again a little without the Island Motuara, to wait for a more favourable opportunity of putting into the strait. While we were unmooring and getting under sail, Tomaton- geauooranuc, Matahouah, and many more of the natives, came to take their leave of us, or ratiuBr to obtain. ? ! -. T Feb. 1777.) if they could, wnM ftdditioual )>rescnt from us bef(/re we Ipft tii(i*«' The»© two chiefs became suitors to me for some goats and hogs. At viordingly I guve to Miitihoiuh two ^iiaM, • male and female with kid , awI to Tomatongeauooranu(. two pigs, » boar and a sow. They made m^ a j»ro- mise not to kill them, tliough I must own I put no great faith in this. The animals which Captain Furnoaux sent on shore here, and which soon after fell into the hands of the natives, I was now told were all dead ; but 1 Could get no intelligence ahout the fato of those I had left in AVest Bay, and in Cannibal Cove, when I was here in the course of my last voyage. However, all the natives whom i con- versed with agreed that poultry are now to be met with wild in the woods behind Shi]) Cov<; , and 1 was after- ward informed, by the two youths who went away with us, that Tiratou, a popular chief amongst them, had a great many cocks and hens in his separate possession, and one of the sows. On my present arrival at this place, I fully intended to have left not only goats and hogs, but sheep, and a young bull, with two heifers, if I could have found eitner a chief power- ful enough to protect ^nd keep them, or a place where there might be a f>robability of their being concealed rom those who would ignorantly attempt to destroy them. But neither the one nor the other presented itself to me. I could not learn tliat there remained in our neighbourhood any tribe whose numbers could secure to them a superiority of power over the rest of their countrymen. To have given the animals to any of the na- tiviji; who possf^ ,ed no such po*«r, would not nave aiisv'ered the inten- tion ; for in a lountr ' like this, where no man's property is secure, they would soon nave lallyu a prey to dif- ferent parties, and been either sepa- rated or killed ; but most likely both. This was so evident, from what we had observed since our arrival, that I had rssolved to leave no kind of ani- aalf till Matahouah and the other LIVK STOCK LEFT ASHORE n chief 4<.>li cited me for the hogs and goau. As I could spare theiii, 1 let «l»eui go, to take their chance. I have, at dillerent tiui»'H, left in New Zealand uo Icmk than ten or a do/en hogs, besid'H thtuse imt on shore by Captain Furneaux- ft »ill b(! a little eitfu<.i luiary, thcri'fore, if tiiis race shwi id not increase and be presei'ved liere, «itb«r in a wild or in a domestic state, or in both. We had not been long at anchor near Motuara before three or four canop* hlled with natives came off to us trom the south-east side of the sound, and a brisk trade was carried on with tlitni for the curiosities of this j'laco. iu one of these canoes wa« Kahoora, whom 1 have already mentioned as the leader of the party who cut olT the crow of the Adven- ture's boat. This was the third time he had vi-sited us without betraying the smallest appearance of fear. I was ashore when he now arrived, but had got on board ju.st as ho was going away. Omai, who had returned with me, presently pointed him out and solicited me to shoot him. Not satis- lied with this, ho addressed himself to Kahoora, tlireatening to bo his execu- tioner if ever he presumed to visit us again. The New Zealander paid so little regard to these threats that he returned the next morning with his whole family — men, women, and chil- dien — to the number of twenty and upwards. Omai was the first who acquainted me with his being along- side the ship, and desired to know if he should ask him to come on board. I told him he might ; and accordingly he introduced the chief into the cabin, saying, ' ' There is Kahoora ; kill him ! " But, as if he had forgot hia former threats, or weio afraid that I should call upon him to perform them, be immediately retired. In a short time, however, he returned ; and see- ing the chief unhurt, he expostulated with me very earnestly, saying, "Why do you not kill him ? Y'^- tt'i me if a man kills another in England that he is hanged for it. This man has killed ten, and yet you will not kill , him, though many oi his coontrymen IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) li A Ml ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■" Hi 12.2 UM 12^ ^ 1:° 12.0 U 1 1.6 Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEif MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) •72-4503 •^ a\ iV \\ ^A ^^\ ^ \ ^ ^ Q> M •-,t i ' I t 94 desire it, and it would be very good. " Omai's arguments, though specious enough, having no wfiiglit with me, I desired him to ask the chief why he had killed Captain Furueaux's T>eo]>le. At this question, Kahoora folded his arms, hung down his head, and looked like one caught in a trap ; and 1 (irmly believe he expected instant death. But no sooner was he assured of his safety tlian he became chcoiliil. He did not, however, soem willing to give me an answer to the question that had been put to him till I had again and again repeated my promise that he should not be hurt. Then he ven- tured to tell us that one of his coun- tr}'men, having orought a f^tone hatchet to bai ter, the man to whom it was olfered to6k it, and would neither return it nor give anything for it ; on which the owner of it snatched up the bread as an equiva- lent, and then the quanel began. The remainder of Kahuoia's account of this unhappy affair diifered very little from what we had before learned from the rest of his countrymen. He mentioned the narrow escaiie he had during the fray, a musket being levelled at him, whic^ he avoided by skulking behind the boat, and another man who stood close to him was shot dead. As soon as the musket was discharged, he instantly seized the opportunity to attack Mr Kowe, who eommanded the party, and who de- fended himself with his hanger (with which he wounded Kahoora in the arm), till he was orerpowercd by num- bers. Mr Barney, who was sent bv Captain Furneaux the next day with an armed party to look for his missing people, upon diiicovering the horrid proofs of their shocking fate, had fired aevend volleys amongst the crowds of natives who still remained assembled on the spot, and were, probably, par- taking of the detestable banquet. It was natural to suppose that he liad oot fired in vain, and that therefore ■ome of the murderers and devourers of our unhappy countrymen had suf- fered under our just resentment. Upon inquiry, however, into this Butter, not onlv from Kahoora, but COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. I. Ch. VIL from others who had opportunities of knowing, it api)eared that our supposition was groundless, and that not one of the shots fired by Mr Barney's people had taken effect so as to kill or even to hurt a single person. It was evident that most of the natives we had met with since our anival, as they knew 1 was fully ac- quainted with the history of the mas- sacre, expected I should avenge it with the death of Kahoora. And many of them seemed not only to wish it, but expressed their surprise at my forbearance. As he could not be ignorant of this, it was a matter of wonder to me that he put himself so often in my power. When he visited us while the ships lay in the cove, confiding in the number of his friends t hat accompanied him, be might think himself safe. Hut his two last >nsits had been made under such circun- stances that he could no longer rely upon this. Wo were then at anchor in the entrance of the sound, and at some distance from any shore, so that he could not have any assistance from thence, nor flatter himself he could have the means of making his escape had I determined to detain him. And yet, after his first fears on being in- terrogated were over, he was so far from entertaining any uneasy sensa- tions, that on seeing a portrait of one of his countrymen hanging up in the cabin he desired to have his own por trait drawn, and sat till Mr Webber had finished it without marking the least impatience. I must confess I admired his courage, and was not a little pleased to observe the extent of the confidence he put in me. For he placed bis whole safety in the declar- ations I had uniformly made to those who solicited his death ; that I had always been a friend to them all, and would continue so, unless they gave me cause to act otherwise ; ^hat as to their inhuman treatment of our people, I should think no more of it, th* transaction having happened long affo^ and when I was not present; but that, if ever thev made a second attempt of that kind, they might fBB.1777.] TWO YOUTHS KWBARK vest assured of filing the weight of By resentment. For some time before we arrived at Kew Zealand, Omai hnd expressed a desire to take one of the natives with him to his own country. We had not been there many days before he bad an opportunity of being gratified in this, for a youth about seventeen cr eighteen ytars of age, named T;i- weiharooa, oli't^red to auoompnny him, •ud took up his residence on board. I paid little attention to this at first, imagining that ho would leave us when we were about to di part, and after he had got whut he could from Oroai. At length, finding that he Was fixed in his resolution to go with us, and having learned that l:e was the oidy son of^a deceased chief ; and that his mother, still living, was a woman much respected here, I was apprehensive that Omai haut nine or ten years of age, named Kokoa. Ho was presentetl to me by his own father, who, I believe, woold have pirted with his dog with, far leas in- diired him of, anossibility, of these youths ever returning home. Not one, not even their nearest rela- tions, seemed to trouble themselves about their fature fate. Since this was the case, and I was well satisfied that the boys would be no loaers by exchange of place, 1 the morb readily gave my consent to their going. ^ BOOK IL PEOM LKAVINQ NEW ZEALAND TO OUR ARRIVAL aT OTAHEITE, OR THE SOCIETY ISLANDS. CHAPTER I. Oh the 25th, at 10 o'clock in the morning, u light breeze springing up at N W. by W., we weighed, stood out of the sound, and made sail through the strait, with the Discoyery in com* |Muiy. We had hardly got the len^ of Gape Tiarawhitte^ whtn the wud took us aback at SE. It continued in this quarter till 2 o'clock the next morning, vihen we hod a few * Omission is made of the remain* der of this Chapter, and of Chapter VIII. — the latter entirely written by Mr Anderson — which ore oooupied with dissertations on the mwal^ h |j 06 COOK'S VOYAOftS hours' calm. After which we had a breeze at N. ; but here it fixed not long, before it veered to the E. , and after that to tlie S. At length, on the 27th, at 8 o'clock in th« rnorninj?, we took our departure from Cape Palliser. \Ve had a nne gale, and I steered E. by N. We had no sooner lost sight of the land than our two New Zouland adventurers, the sea sirkness they now experienced giving a turn to their re- flections, repented heartily of the step they had taken. AH the soothing encouragement we could think of availetl but little. They wept, both in public and in private, and made their lamentations in a kind of {=ong, which, as far as we could comprehend the meaning of the words, was expres- sive of their praises of tht-ir country and people, from which they were to be separated for ever. Thus they continued for many days, till their sea sickness wore olF, and the tumult of their minds began to subside. Then these fits of lamentation became less and less frequent, and at length en- tirely ceassd. Their native country and their friends were by degnes for- got, and they appeared to be as firmly attached to us as if they had been bom amongst us. On the 29th [of March], at ten in the morning, as we were standing to the NE., the Discovery made the signal of seeing land. We saw it from the mast- head almost the same moment, bear- ing NE. by E. by compass. We soon discovered it to be nn island of no great extent, and stood for it till sun- set, when it bore NNE., distant about two or three leagues. The night was spent in standing off and on, and at daybreak the next morning I bore up for the lee or west side of the island, as neither anchorage nor landing ap- peared to be practicable on the south side, on account of a great surf which broke everywhere with violence against the shore, or against the reef that sur- rounded it. manners, and customs, kc, kc, of the New Zealanders, but do not in any way relate to tho actaal transactions of the voyage. [Tot. III. B. IT. Ch. I. We presently found that the island was inhabited, aud saw several people on a point of the land we bad passed, wading to the reef, where, as they found the ship leaving them quickly, they remained. Hut others, who soon appeared in different |)arts, followed her course, and sometimes several of them collected into small boilie.<», who made a shouting noise all together, nearly after the manner of the inha- bitants of New Zealand. Between 7 and 8 o'clock, we were at the ^VNW. p;irt of the island, and, l)eing near the shore, we could i»erceive with our gliisscs that several of the natives, who appeared ufKin a sandy beach, were all armed with long spears and clubs, which they brandishe«i in the air with signs of threatening, or a» some on board iulei-i>rete«l their atti- tudes, with invitations to land. Most of them ajtpearcd naked, exiept having a sort of girdle, wliich, being brought up between the thiirhs, covered that part of the body. 1 '.ut some of them nad pieces of cluth of dilferent colours, white, striped, or cheijuered, which they wore as a garment, thrown about their shoulders. And almost all of them had a white wrapper about their heads, not much unlike a turban, or, in some instances, like a high conical cap. We could also perceive that they were of a tawny colour, and in general of a middling stature, but robust, and inclining to corjmlence. At this time, a small canoe waa launched in a great hurry from the farther end of the beach, and a man getting into it, put off, as with a view to reach the ship. On perceivinf; this, I brought to, that we might re- ceive the visit ; but the man's resolu- tion failing, he soon returned toward tho beach, where, after some time, an- other man joined him in the canoe ; and then they both paddled towards ua. They stopped short, however, as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addressed them in the Otaheite lan- guage, ixi some measure quieted their apprehensions. They then came near enough to take some beads and naik, which were tied to o piece of wood and thrown into the canoo. They AlABOH 1777.1 AN ISLAND CALLED MANGEEA DISCOVERED. 07 seemed afraid to touch these things, and put the piece of wood aside with* out untying them. This, however, might arise from superstition ; for Omai told tis, that when they saw us offering them presents, they asked something for their " Eatooa, ' or god. He also, i)crhaps improperly, put the question to them, "W he' her they ever ate human flesh?" which they answered in the iie^' itivo, with a mix- ture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whose numo was Mod- rooa, being asked how lie came by a scar on his forehead, told us that it was the consequence of a wound he had got in fighting with the i)eople of an island which lies to the north-east- ward, who sometimes came to invade them. They afterward took hold of a rope. Still, however, they would not venture on board ; but told Omai, who understood them pretty well, that their countrymen on shore had given them this caution, at the same time directing them to inquire from whence our ship came, and to learn the name of the captain. On our part, we inquired the name of the island, whicn they called "Mangja" or " Mangeea ;" and sometimes atUlcd to it " Nooe, nai, naiwa." The name of their chief, they said, wasOi ooaecka. Mourooa was lusty and well made, but not very tall. Uis features were agreeable, and his disposition seeming- ly no less so ; for he made several droll gesticulations, which indicated both food-nature and a share of humour, [e also made others which seemed of a serious kind, and rci)eated some words with a devout air, be lore he ventured to lay hold of the rope at the ship's stem ; which was i^robably to recommend himself to thu protec- tion of some divinity. His colour was nearly of the same cast with that common to the most southern Euro- peans. The other man was not so handsome. Both of them had ^strong, straight hair, of a jet colour, tied to- gether on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They wore such girdles an we had perceived about those on shore, and we found they were a sub- liUQco made thm the ilorua papyn- /erat in the same manner aa at the other islands of this ocean. It was glazed like the sort used by the natives of the Friendly Islands ; but the clotb on their heads was white, like that which is found at Otaheito. Thoy had on a kind of samlals, made of a grassy substance interwoven, which we also observed were worn by those who stood upon the beach, and, as we supposed, intended to defend their feet against the rough coral rock. Their beards were long ; and the in- side of their anus, from the shoulder to the elbow, and some other jiarts, wore punctured or tattooed, after the manner of the inhabitants of almost all the other islands in the South Sea. The lobe of their ears was pierced, or rather slit, and to such a length, that one of them stuck there a knife and some beads which he had received from us ; and the same person had two polished pearl shells, and a bunch of human hair, loosely twisted, hang- ing about his neck, which was the only ornament wo observed. The canoe they came in (which was the only one we saw) was not above ten feet long, and very narrow ; but both strong and neatly mailo. The fore- part had a flat board fastened over it, and iirojccting out, to i)rtivent the sea getti.ig in on jdunging, like tlie small "ovaas" at tali cite ; but it had an upright stern, about five feet high, like some iti New Zealand ; and the upper end of this stern-post was forked. The lower part of the canoe was of white wood, but the upper was block ; and their paddles made of wood of the same colour, not above three fcot long, broad at one end, and blunted. They paddled either end of the canoe forAvard indifferently, and only turned about their faces to paddle the con- trary way. We now stood off and on, and as soon as the ships were in a proper station, about 10 o'clock I ordered two boats, one of them from the Dis- covery to sound the coast, and to en- deavour to find a landing-place. With this view, 1 went in one of them my* self, taking with me such articles t3 give the natives as I thought mi^?^ r t^ 98 COOK'S VOYAOFS. (Tot. III. B. II. Ch. IL ■erve to gftin their goodwill. I had no sooner put off from the ship than the canoe, witli the two men wliirh had left us not lonjj heforo, paddletl towards my boat; and, havin<; come alongside, Mourooa stepped into her, without being asked, and without a moment's h&sitation. Omai, wlio was with mc, was ordered to inquire of him where we could land, and he directed us to two different places. But I saw v/ith regret tha^ tlie at- tempt conid not l>e made at either place, unless at the risk of having our boats filled with water, or even staved to pieces. Nor were we more fortunate in our search for anchorage, for we could find no bottom till witltin a cable's length of the breakers. There we met with from forty to twenty fathoms depth, over sliarp coral rooks, ■o that anchoring would have been attended with much more danger than landing. Thus were wo obliged to leave, un visited, this fine island, which seemed cai>able of supplying aU our wants. The natives of Mangeea seem to resemble those of Otaheite and the Marquesas in the beauty of their per- sons more than any other nation I have seen in these seas ; having a smooth skin, and not being muscular. Their general disposition also corre- sponds, as far as wo had opportunities of judging, with that which distin- fiishes tiiQ firet-mentionv:ost. Tliu head in ilat above, but piuw-like below, aud tuiud down at the cxtrumity, like the cud of a violin. Suuie knives, beads, aud other triUea ymie conveyed to our visitors, aud they gave us a few cocoa- uuts, uiK>u our uiikiug for them. But they did uot part with them by way of exchange for what they hud re- ceived fruiii us. For thoy secuied tu have no idea of bartering ; nor did they apjicar to estimate any of our presents at a high rate. With a little persuasion, one of them made his cauoe fast to the shi[>, aud came on board, and the other two, encour- aged by his example, soon followed him. Their whole behaviour marked that they were quite at their case, and felt no sort of api>reheusion of our de- taining or using them ill. After their depaiture, another canoe irrived, conducted by a man who wrought a bunch of plantains as a present to me ; asking for mo by name, having learned it from Omai, vho was sent before us in the boat with Jlr Gore. In return for this civility, I gave liim an axe, and a piece of red cloth, and he paddled tmik to the shore well sati^lcd. I afterward undei-stood from Omai, that this })rcsent had bceu sent from the king, or principal chief, of the island. Not long after, a double cauoe, in which were twelve meu, came toward us. As they drew near the shi]>, they recited some words in concert, by way of chorus, one of their number first standing up, and giving the word before each repeti- tion. When they had iluished their solemn chant, they came alongside, and asked for the chief. As soon as 1 showed myself, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the ship ; aud the principal person in the cauoe made me an additional pre- sent of u piece of mattuig, as soon as he aud his compauinus got on board. Our visitors were conducted iuto the cabin, aud to other parts of the ship. SoiD« objects seemed to stiike them with a degree of surprise ; bat nothing fixed their attention for a Tuonient. 'I'hey were alraid to come near the cows and lii)i,-,e.s ; nor did they form the leu'ii cumciaion of tiieir nature. hut the slaep and guats did uot surpuss the limits of their ideas ; lor tiiey gave us to understand that they knew ihem to be birds. It will appear rather in- credible that human i>^aiorauce could over make so strange a mistakt' ; there uot being the most distant similitude between a sheep or goat aud any winged aniinnl. Hut these people seemed to know nothing of the existence of any other laud- animals besides hogs, dugs, and birds. Our sheep and goats, they ccmld see, were very dillereut creatures fn»m the two first, and therefore they inferred that they must belong to the latter class, in which thoy know there is a considerable variety of Bi)ecie8. 1 made a ])rescnt to my new friend of what 1 thought migiit be most ac* ceptable to him ; but, on his going away, he seemed rather disappointed than pleaaed. I afterward under- stood that he was very desirous of obtaining a dog, of whicli animal this island could not boxst, though its inhabitants knew that the race existed in other islauds of their ocean. Captain Gierke had received the like present, with the same view, from another man, who met with from him the like disappointment. The ]>eoplc in these canoes were in general of a middling size, and not uulike those of AInngeea ; though several were of a bla'^ker cast than any we saw there. Their hair was tied on the crown of the head, or flowing loose upon the shoulders ; and tliough in some it was of a frizzling disposition, yet, for the most part, that, as well as the straight sort, was lo)ig. Their fea- tures were various, and some of the young men rather handsome. Like those of Mangeea, they ha»l girdles of glazed clotli, or fine matting, the ends of which, being brought betwixt their tliighs, covered the adioitang parts. Ornaments composed of a sort of iM-oad grass, stained with r«^ 1 ^ir^ M I 100 And Strang with benrlM of the night- shade, were worn abont their necks. Thoir ears were bored, but not slit ; and they were puncturetl upon the legs, from the ktiee to the hoet, which mndo them appear as if they wore a kind of boots. They aiso resombled the inhabitants of Mangeea in the length of their beards, and like them wore a sort of sandals ujwn their feet. Their behaviour was frank and cheer- ful, with a great deal of good-nature. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, Mr Gore returned with the boat, and in- formed me that he liad examined all the west side of the island, without finding a place where a boat could land or the ships could anchor, the shore being everywhere bounded by a ■teen coral rock, against which the sea broke in a dreadful .surf. But as the natives seemed very friendly, and to express a of Omai as his interpreter, ho in- formed the chiefs with what intention we had come on shore ; but was given to understand that he must wait till the next day, and then he should have what was wanted. "Tliey now seemed to take some pains to separate us fioni eiich other, and every one of us had his circle to surround and gaze at him. For my own part, I was at one time above an hour apart from mv friends ; and when I told the chief with whom I sat that I wanted to speak to Omai, he per- emptorily refused my request. At tho same time, I found the people began to steal several trifling things which I had in my pocket ; and when I took the liberty of complaininfj to the chief of this treatment, he justified it. From these circumstances, I now entertained apprehensions that they might have formed the design of de- taining us amongst them. They did not, indeed, seem to be of a disposi- tion so savage as to make us anxious lor the safety of our persons ; but it was nevertheless vexing to think wo had hazarded being detained by their curiosity. In this situation, I asked for something to eat, and they readily brought to me some cocoa-nuts, bread- fruit, and a sort of sour pudding, which was presented by a woman. And on my complaining much of the heat, occasioned by the crowd, the chief himself condescended to hn me, and gave me a small piece of cloth which he had round his waist. •* Mr Bumey happening to come to the place where I was, I mentioned my suspicions to him ; and, to put it to the test whether they were well founded, we attempted to get to the beach. But we were stopped when about half way hy some men, who told us that we must go back to the place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining the same apprehensions. But he h&Ci, •$ he fitncied, an additional rauon for i April 1777.] DETENTION BY being afraid, for he had observed that they had du^ a hole in the ground for •n oven, which they were now heat* ing ; and he could assign no other reason for this than that they meant to roast and eat us, as is practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Nay, he went so far as to a^k them the question, at which they were greatly surprised, asking in return whether that was a custom with us. Mr Bur- ncy and I were ratlier angry that they should be thus sua}iectea by him, there having as yet been no appear- ances in their conduct toward us of their being capable of such brutality. " In this manner we were detained the greatest part of the day, being sometimes together, and sometimeH separated, but always in a crowd, who, not satisfied with gazing at us, frequently desired us to uncover parts of our skm ; the sight of which com- monly produced a general mumnir of admiration. At the same time, they did not omit these opportunities of rifling our pockets ; and, at last, one of them snatched a small bayonet from Mr Gore, which hung in its sheath by his side. This was repre- sented to the chief, who pretended to send some person in search of it. But, in all probability, he counten- anced the theft ; for, soon after, Omai had a dagger stolen from his side in the same manner, though he did not miss it immediately. "Whether they observed any signs of uneasiness in us, or that they vol- untarily repeated their emblems of friendsnip when we expressed a de- sire to go, I cannot tell ; but, at this time, they brought some green boughs, and, sticking their ends in the ground, desire<^. we might hold them as we sat. (Jpon our urging again the busi- ness we came upon, they gave us to tuiderstand that we must stay and eat with them ; and a pig which we •aw, soon after, lying near the oven, which they had prepared and heated, removed Omai's apprehonsioi. s of be- in ci: put into it himself, and made us thinlc it might be intended for our repast. The chief also promised to send some people to procure food for THE NATIVES. 103 the cnttle ; but it was not till pretty late in the afternoon that we saw them return with a few plantaiL* trees, which they carried to our boats. "In the meantime, Mr Bumey and I Httempted again to go to the beach^; but, when we arrived, found onraelvos watched by people who, to appear- ance, had been placed there for this purpttse. For when I tri«'«l to wade in upon tlie reef, one of them took hold of my clothes ami dragged me back. I picked up some small pieces of coral, which they required me to throw down again ; and, on my re- fusal, they made no scruple to take them forcibly from me. I had gathered some small plants, but these also I could not bo permitted to re- tain. And they took a fan from Mr Bumey, which he had .received as a present on coming ashora Omai said we had done wrong in taking up anything, for it was not the custom here to permit freedoms of that kind to strangers, till they had in some measure naturalised them to the country, by entertaining them with festivity for two or three days. " Finding that the only method of procuring better treatment was to yield implicit obedience to their will, we went up again to the place we had left, and they now promised that we should have a canoe to carry us off to our boats, after we had oaten of a re- past which had been prepared for us. Accordingly, the second chief, to whom we had been introduced in the morning, having seated himself upon a low broad stool of blackish, hard wood, tolerably polished, and direct- ing the multiludc to make a pretty large ring, made us sit down by him. A considerable number of cocoa-nuta were now brought, and, shortly after, a long green basket, with a sufficient quantity of bakecd, and the whole neatly polished. Others of them were narrower at the point, much shorter, and plain ; and some Trere eren so small as to be used with whole extent of the Pacific Ocean), by rafters lashed across. They weit» about twenty feet long, al)out four feet deep, and the sides rounded, with a plank raised u|»on them, wliich was fastened stioii'Tly by melius of withe.%. Two of theso canoes were most curi- ously stai. (1 or painted all over with black, in nuii'berlcss small figures, as squares, triangles, &c., and excelled by far anything of that kind I had ever seen at any other island in this ocean. Our friends here, indeed, seemed to have exerted more skill in doing this, than in ])uncturing their own oodies. The paddles were about four feet long, nearly elliptical, but broa siderable quantity of fish. Next morning at 4 o'clock I sent Lieuten- ant King with two boats to Komango tc procure refreshments, and at five made the signal to weigh, in order to ply up to Annamooka, the wind being unfavourable at NW. It was no sooner daylight than we were visited by six or seven canoes from different islands, bringing with them, besides fruits and roots, two pigs, several fowls, some large wood-pigeons, small rails, and largo violet-coloured coots. All these they exchanged with OS for beads, nails, hatchets, &c. They had also other articles of commerce ; such as pieces of their cloth, fish- hooks, small baskets, musical reeds, and some clubs, 8j)ear8, and bows. But I ordered that no ciriosities ■hoald be purchased till the ships ahouid be supplied with provisions, and leave giv^n for thi.w purpose. Knowing, also, from experience, that if all our peopJe migiit tnuie with the natives according to their own caprice, i)erpetiial quarrels would en- sue, I ordered tiiat particular iMirsons should manage the tralfic both on board and on sho % prohibiting all others to interfere. Before mid-day Mr King's boat returned with seven hogs, some fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots for ourselves, and some grass for the cattle. His party was very civilly treated at Komango. The inhabitants did not seem to be numerous ; and their huts, which stood close to each other, within a plantain walk, were but inditlci-ent. Not far from thcin was a pretty large pond of fresh water, tolerably good ; but there was not any appearance of a stream. With l^Ir King came on board the chief of the island, named Tooboulangee, and another whose name was Taipa. They brought with them a hog as a present to me, and promised more the next day. As soon as the boats were aboard, I stood for Annamooka; and the wind being scant, I intended to go between Annamooka-ette,* and the breakers to the SE. of it. But, on drawing near, we met with very irre- gular soundings, varying, every cast, ten or twelve fathoms. This obliged me to give up the design, and to go to the southward of all ; which carried us to leeward, and made it necessary to spend the night under saiL It was very dark, and we had the wind from every direction, accompanied with heavy showers of rain. So that, at daylight tho next morning, we found ourselves much farther oif than we h id been the evening before ; and the little wind that now blew was right in our teeth. W o continued to ply all day to very little purpose, and in the evening anchored. Tooboulang -e and Taipa kept their promise, and brought off to me some hogs. Several others were also procured by bartering from different canoes that followed us, and * That is. Little Annamooka. Mat 1777.] TRANSACTIONS AT ANNAMOOKA. lU M much firoit as we could well man* aze. It was remarkable that during the whole day our visitors from the islands would Iiardly part with any of their commodities to anybody but me. Captain Gierke did not get above one or two hogs. At 4 o'clock next morning I ordered a boat to be hoisted out, and sent the master to sound the SW. side of Annamooka. In the mean* time the sliips were got under sail, and wrought up to the island. AVhen the master returned, he reported that he had sounded between Great nnd Little Annumov \a, where lie ' juud ten and twelve fathoms' de^th of water, the bottom coral sand; that the place was very well sheltered from all winds ; but that there was no fresh water to be found, excej)t at some distance inland, and even there little of it was to bo got, and that little not good. For this reason only, and it was a very suflicient one, I determined to anchor on the north side of the island, where, during my last voyage, I had found a place lit both for watering and landing. It was not above a league distant, and ^et we did not reach it till 5 o'clock in the afternoon, being considerably retarded by the great number of canoes that continually crowded round the ships, bringing to ns abundant supplies of the produce of their island. Amongst these canoes there were some double ones, with a large •ail, that carried between forty and fifty men each. These sailed round ns, apparently with the same ease as if we had been at anchor. There wcfo several women in the canoes, who were, perhaps, incited by curi- osity to vit.It us ; though, at the same time, they bartered as eagerly as the men, and used the paddle with equal labour and dexterity. I came to an anchor in eighteen fathoms water, the bottom coarse coral sand ; the island extending from E. to SW., and the W. point of the westernmost cove SE., about three-quarters of a mile distant. Thus I resumed the very came station which I had occupied when I visited Annamooka three years before ; and, protMtbly, almost in the same place where Tasman, the first discoverer of this and some ol the neighbouring islands, anchored in 1G43.1 Finding that we had quite ex- liausted the island of almost every article of food that it allorded, I cm- ployed the 11th in moving off from the shore the horses, observatories, and other things that we had landed, as also the party of mannes who had mounted guanl at our station, intend- ing to sail as soon as the Discovery should have recovered her best bower anchor. The 12th and the 13th were spent in attempting the recovery of Captain Clerke's anchor, which, after much trouble, was happily accom- plished ; and on the 14th, in the morning, we got under sail and left Annamooka. To the north and north-east of Annamooka, and in the direct tract to Hapaee, whither we were now bound, the sea is sprinkled with a threat number of small isles. Amidst the shoals and rocks adjoining to this group, 1 could not be assured that tiiere was a free or safe passage for such large ships as oun ; though the natives sailed through the inter- vals in their canoes. For this sub- stantial reason, when we weighed anchor from Annamooka I thought it necessary to go to the westward ol the above islands, and steered NNW. toward Kao and Toofoa, the two most westerly islands in sight, and remark- able for their great height. Feenuu and his attendants remained on board the Kcsolution till near noon, when he went into the large sailing canoe which had brought him from Tonga- taboo, and stood in amongst the clus- * Captiin Cook, accompanied by Captain Clerke, went ashore here to fix a place for their observatories, when Loobu, the chief of the island, showed them every attention and civility. On the 6th they were visited by a chief from Tongataboo, m'Hom name was Feeuou, who was fond ol associating with them, and who \>i!iim dined on board. > h f » 1]2 ter of islands abore mentioned, of which we were now almost abreast ; and a tide or current from the west- ward had set us, since our sailing in the morning, much over toward them. They lie scattered at unequal distances, and are, in general, nearly as high as Annamooka ; but only from two or three miles to half-a- mile in length, and some of them scarcely so much. They have either steep rocky shores, like Annamooka, or reddish cliffs ; but some have sandy beaches extending almost their whole length. Must of them are amongst and entirely clothed with treeSj which are many cocoa-palms ; each forms a prospect like a beautiful garden placed in the sea. To heighten this, the serene weather we now had contributed very much ; and the whole might suj>ply the imagination with an idea or some fairy-land realised. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon, being the length of Kotoo, the westenimost of the above cluster of small islands, we steered to the north, leaving Toofoa and Kao on our larboard, keeping along the west side of a reef of rocks which lie to the westward of Kotoo, till we came to their northern extremity, round which we hauled in for the island. It was our intention to have anchored for the night ; but it came upon us before we could find a place in less than fifty-five fathoms water ; and rather than come to in this depth I chose to sj>en»l the night under sail. We had in the afternoon been within two leagues of Toofoa, the smoke of which we saw sevei.il times in the day. The Friendly Islanders have some superstitious notions about the volcano upon it, which they call "Kollofeea," and •ay it is an "Otooa," or divinity. According to their acoount, it souie- times throws up very large stones; and they compare the crater to the size oi a small islet, which has never ceased smoking in tlieir memory ; nor have they any tradition that it ever did. We sometimes saw the ■moke rising from the centre of the (slan I, while we wore at Annamooka, though at the distance of at least ten COOK'S VOVAGES. {ToT.III.B.II.Cn.IV. leagues. Toofoa, we were told« la Imt thinly inhabited, but the water upon it is good. At day-break the next morning, being then not far from Kao, which is a vast rock of a conic figure, we steered to the east, for the passage between the islands Footooha and Hafaiva, with a gentle breeze at SE. About 10 o'clock Feenou came on board, and remaitied with us all day. He brought with him two hogs and a qtiantity of fruit ; and, in the course of the day, several canoes, from the different islands round us, came to baiter (juantities of the latter article, which was very acccptal>le, as our stock was nearly expended. After passiiig Footooha, we met with a reel of rocks ; and, as there was but little wind, it cost us some trouble to keep clear of them. This reef lies between Footooha and Neeneeva, which is a small low isle, in the direction of ENE. from Footooha, at the tlistance of seven or eight miles. I'^ing past the reef of rocks just mentioned, we hauled up for Neeneeva, in hopes of finding anchorage; but were again disappointed, and obliged to spend the night, making short boards.^ For, although we had laud in every direction, the sea was unfathomable. In the course of this night we could plainly see flames issuing from the volcano upon Toofoa, though to no great height. At daybreak in the morning of the 16th, with a gentle breeze at SE., we steered NE. for Hapaee, which was now in sight ; and we could judge it to be low land, from the trees only ai>i)ejiring above the water. About 9 o'clock we could see it plainly, forming three islands, nearly of an equal size ; and soon after, a fourth to the southward of these, at large as the others. Each seemed t( be altout six or seven miles long, anr of a similar height and appcai'ance. The northernmost of them is called Hj'jinno, the next Foa, the third Lefooga, and the southernmost Hoo< laiva ; but all four are included by » TacU Mat 1777.] RECEFTION the natives under the general name Hapaee. The wind scanting upon us, we could not fetch tl»e land ; so that we were forced to ply to windward. In doinw this, we once passed over sonae coral rocks on which we had only six fathoms water ; but the moment we were over them, found no ground with eighty fathoms of line. We got up with the northernmost of these isles by sunset ; and there foimd ourselves in the very same dis- tress, for want of anchorage, that wo had experienced the two preceding evenings ; so that we had another night to spend under sail, with land and breakers in every direction. To- wards the evening Fccnou, who had been on board all day, wont forward to Hapaee, and took Omai in the canoe with him. He did not forget our disagreeable situation, and kept up a good fire all night l>y way of a land-mark. As soon as the daylight returned, being then close in with Foa, we saw it was joined to llaanno by a reef running even with the sur- face of the sea from the one island to the other. I now despatched a boat to look for anchorage. A pro^wr place was soon found, and wo came to abreast of a reef, being that which joins Lefooga t; Foa (in the same manner that Foa is joined to Haanno), having twenty-four fathoms' depth of water. We lay before a creek in the reef, which made it convenient land- ing at all times ; and we were not above three-quarters of a mile from the shore. AT HAPAEE. 113 CHAPTER V. By the time we had anchored, the ships were filled with the natives, and surrounded by a multitude of canoen filled also ^vith them. They brought from the shore hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they ex- changed for hatchets, knives, nails, bead«, and cloth. Feenou and Omai having come on board, after it was light, in order to introduce me to the people of the island. I soon ao companicd them 6^ shore for that purjjose, lauding at the north part of Lotoogii, a little to the right of the ships' station. The chief conducted me to a house, or rather a hut, situated close to the sea-beach, wliich I had seen brought thither but a few minutes before for our reception. In this Feenou, Omai, and myself, were seated. The other chiefs and the multitude composed • circle on the outside, frontiug us, and they also sat down. I was then asked, " How long I intended to stay ? " On my saying, "Five days, " Taipa was ordered to come and sit by me, and proclaim this to the people. He then harangued them, in a speech mostly dictated by Feenou. The pur- port of it, as I learned from Omai, waa that they were all, both old and young, to look upon me' as a friend, who intended to remain with them a few days ; that, during my stay, they mu'it not steal anything, nor molest me any other way ; and that it waa expected they snould bring hogs, fowi's, fruit, &c., to the ships, where the} would receive in exchange for them such and such things which he enu)n crated. Soon after Taipa had finished this address to the assembly, Feenou left us. Taipa then took occasion to signify to me, that it waa necessary I should make a present to the chief of the island, whose name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this ; and gave him such articles as far exceeded his expectation. My liberality to him brought upon ma demands of the same kind from two chiefs of other isles who were present and from Taipa himself. When Fee- nou returned, which was immediately after I had made the last of these presents, he pretended to be angry with Taipa for suffering me to give away so much ; but I looked upon this as a mere finesse, being confident that he acted in concert with the others. He now took his seat again and ordered Earonpa to sit by him and to harangue the people aa Taipa had done, and to the same pur])os() ; dictating as before, the heads of tlie ■seech. E I ' il' »'J r ■■■ n 114 These ceremonies being performed, the chief, at my request, conducted me to three stagnant pools of fresh water, as he was pleased to call it ; and, indeed, in one of these the water was tolerable, and the situation not inconvenient for filliug our casks. After viewing the watering-place, we returned to our former station, where 1 found a baked hog and some yams, smoking hot, ready to be carried on board for my dinner. I invited Feenou and his friends to partake of it, and we embarked for the ship ; but none but himself sat down with us at the table. After dinner I con- ducted them on shore ; and 1 < fore I returned on boanl, the chief gave me a fine large turtle and a quantity of yams. Our supply of provisions was copious, for in the course of the day we got, by barter alongside the ship, about twenty small hogs, besides fruit and roots. I was told that on ray first landing in the morning, a man came off to the ships, and ordered every one of the natives to go on shore. Pro!)ably, this was done with a view to have the whole body of inhabitants present at the ceremony of my reception ; for when that was over, multitudes of them re- turned again to the ships. Next morning early, Faenou ;md Omai, who scarcely ever quitted the chief, and now slept on shore, came on board. The object of the visit was to require my presence upon the island. After some time I accom- panied them, and, upon landing, was conducted to the same place where I had been seated the day be- fore, where I saw a large concourse of people already assembled. I guessed that something more than ordinary was in agitation, but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me. I had not been long seated, before near a hundred of the natives appeared in sight, and advanced, laden with yams, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa- nuts, and sugar-canes. They depos- ited their burdens in two heaps, or piles, upon our left, being the side they came from. Soon alter arrived ft Bvmber of others from the right, COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. I ?. Ch. V. bearing the same kind of articles ; which were collected into two piles upon that side. To these were tied two pigs and six fowls ; and to those upon the left, six pigs and two turtles. Earoupa seated himself be- fore the several articles upon the left, and another chief before those apon the right ; they being, as I judfjed, the two chiefs who had collected them by order of Feenou, who seemed to be as implicitly obeyed here as he had been at Annaniooka, and, in consequence of his commanding 8upe« riority over the chiefs of Hapaee, had laid this tax upon them for the present occasion. As soon as this munificent collec- tion of provisions was laid down in order, and disposed to the best ad- vantage, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Presently after, a number of men entered this circle, or area, before us, armed with clubs made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut tree. These paraded about for a few minutes, and then retired, the one half to one side, and the other half to the other side ; seating themselves before the spectators. Soon after, they successively entered the lists, and entertained us with single combats. One champion, ris- ing up and stepping forward from one side, challenged those of the other side, by expressive gestures more than by words, to send one of their body to oppose him. If the challenge was accepted, which was generally the case, the combatants put themselves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagement, which continued till one or other owned himself conquered, or till their weapons were broken. As soon as each combat was over, the victor squatted himself down facing the chief, then rose up and retired. At the same time, some old men, who seemed to sit as judges, gave their plaudit in a few words, and the mul- titude, especially those on the side to which the victor belonged, celebrated the glory he had aoquued, in two «r three htizzas. *i Mat 1777.) WRESTLING AND BOXING MATCHES. Tins ontcrtainment was, now and then, suspended for a few minutes. During these intervals there were both wrestling and boxing match «'S. The first were performed iu the same manner as at Otaheito; and the second dillered very little from the method practised in England. But what struck us with most surprise was to see a couple of lusty wenches •tep forth and begin boxing without the least ceremony, ami with as much art as the mta. This contest, how- ever, did not last above half-a-minute before one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received the same ai)])lause troin the spectators which tney bestowed upon the successful combatants of the other sex. We ox pressed some dislike at this part of the entertainment; which, however, did not prevent two other females from entering the lists. They seemed to be girls of spirit, and would cer- tainly have given enrh other a good drubbing, if two old women had not interfered to part them. All these combats were exhibited in the midst of at least 3000 piople, and were con- ducted with the greatest good humour on all sides; though some of the champions, women as well as men, received blows which, doubtless, they must have felt for some time after. As soon as these diversions were ended, the chief told me that the heaps of provisions on our right hand were a present to Omai; and that those on our left hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were given to me. He added, that I might take them on board whenever it was convenient; but that there would be no occasion to set any of our people as guaids over them, as I might be assured that not a single eocoa-nut would be taken away by the natives. So it proved ; for I left everything behind, and returned to the ship to dinner, carrying the chief with me ; and when the provisions were removed on board in the after- noon, not a single article was miss- iQg. There was as much as loaded four boats; and I could not but be atnick with the mnnificenoe of Fee- 115 nou, for this present far exceeded an/ I had over received from any of th« sovereigns of the various islands I had visited in the Pacific Ocean. I lost no time in convincing my friend that I was not insensible of his liber- ality; for, before he q^uittcd my ship, I bestowed upon hini such of our conunodities as I guessed were must v(ihm]>le in his estimation. And the return I made was so much to his satisfaction that, as soon as ho got on shore, he left me still indebted to him by sending me a fresh pre- sent, consisting of two large hogs, a considerable quantity of cloth, and some yams. Feenou had expressed a desire to see the marines go through their military exercise. As I was desirous to gratify his curiosity, I ordered them all ashore from both ships in the morning of the 20th. After they had performed various evolutions, and fired several volleys, with which the numerous body of spectators seemed well pleased, the chief enter- tained us in his turn with an exhibi- tion which, as was acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exactness far surpassing the spec- imen we had given of our military manoeuvres. It was a kind of a dance so entirely different from any- thing I had ever seen, tliat I fear I Pan give no description that will con- vey any tolerable idea of it, to my readers. It was perlbnnnd by men ; and 105 persons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his hand an instrument neatly made, shaped somewhat like a paddle, of two feet and a half in length, with a small handle and a thin blade ; so that they were very light. With these instru- ments they made many and varioua flourishes, each of which was .accom- panied with a different attitude of the body or a ditlerent movement. At first the performers ranged them- selves in t^iree lines ; and, by variona evolutions, each man changed hia station in such a manner that those who had been in the rear came into the fVont. Nor did they remain long in the same position ; but ilicio r :r: .0 Y 1 ' •' V i nc • T' r> i !|. I.' i chun^ new made by pretty quick transitions. At ono time they ex* teniled themselves in one line ; they then formed into a semicircle; and, lastly, into two square columns. While this last movement was exe- cuting, one of them advanced, and j)orformed an antic dance before me; with which the whole ended. The musical instruments consisted of two drums, or rather two hollow logs of wood, from which some varied notes were proiluced by beating on them with two sticks. It did not, however, appear to me that the dancers were much assisted or direc- ted by these sounds, but by a chonis of vocal music, in which all the per- formers joined at the same time. Their song was not destitute of pleas- ing melody; and all their corre- sponding motions were executed with so much skill, that the numerous body of dancers seemed to act as if they wero one great machine. It was the opinion of every ono of us that such a performance would have met with universal applause on a European theatre; and it so far ex- ceeded any attempt we had made to entertain them, that they seemed to pique themselves upon the superior- ity they had over us. As to our musical instruments, they held none of them in the least esteem, except the drum; and even that they did not think equal to their own. Our French horns, in particular, seemed to be held in great contempt ; for neither here, nor at any other of the islands, would they pay the smallest Attention to them. In order to give them a more favour- able opinion of English amusements, and to leave their minds fully im- pressed with the deepest sense of our superior attainments, 1 directed some fireworks to bo got ready ; and, after it was dark, played them off in the presence of Feenou, the other chiefs, and a vast concourse of their people. Some of the preparations we found damaged ; but others of them were in excellent order, and succeeded so perfectly as to answer the end I had m view. Oar water and sky rockets. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Tot.II1.B.II.Ch.V. in particular, pleased and astonisheerformance8. For we observed, tliat if any of tlieui Imppenod accidentally to be interrupted, they never found tho amallest dilTiculty in recovering the nroper place of the dance or song. Ana their perfect diBcijiline was in no instance more remarkaDlo than in tho sudden transitions they so dexterously made from the ruder exertions, and harsh sounds, to the softest arts and gentlest movements. The place where the dances were performed was an open space amongst the trees, just by the sea, with lights at small intervals placed round the inside of the circle. The concours(; of people was pretty large, though not equal to the number assembled in the forenoon when the marines exercised. At that time, some of our gentlemen guessed there might be present about 5000 persons; others thought there were more ; but they who reckoned that there were fewer probably came nearer to the truth. CHAPTER VI. Curiosity on both sides being now gafficiently gratified by the exhibition of the various entertainments I have described, I began to havo time to look about me. Accordingly, next day [May 21st], I took a walk into the Island of Lefooga, of which I was desirous to obtain some knowledge. I found it to be in some respects supe- rior to Annamooka. The plantations were both more numerous and more extensive. In many places, indeed, towards the sea, especially on the cast dde, the country is still waste, owing perhaps to the sandy soil ; as it is much lowoi- than Annamooka and its surrounding isles. Hut towards the middle of the island the soil is better, and the marks of considerable ]u>i)u- latiuu and of iniprovrd cultivation weru very con8i>icuous. l''or we met Ix^re with very largo jilantationfl, en- closed in such a manner, that tlio fences running parallel to each other, form fine spacious ]iublic roads, that wouhl apjtear ornamontiil in countries where rural conveniences have betii canietl to the greatest i>erfection. We observed large spots covered with the paper mulberiy-trees ; and the plan- tations in general were well stocked with such roots and fruits as ore the natural jiroduce of the island. To these 1 made some addition, by sow- ing tho seeds of Indian corn, melon.s, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a house, four -or five times as large as those of the common sort, with a large area of grass before it ; and I take it for granted the people resort thither on certain public occa- sions. Near the landing-place we saw a mount, tsvo or three feet high, covered with giavel ; and on it stood four or five small huts, in which, the natives told us, tiie bodies of some of their jirincipal people had been in- terred. In my walk on the 25th I happened to step into a house where a woman was dressing the eyes of a young child, who seemed blind ; the eyes being much inflamed, and a thin film spread over them. The instruments she used were two slender wooden probes, with which she had brushed the eyes so as to make them bleed. It seems worth mentioning, that the natives of these islands should attempt an operation of this sort ; though I entered the house too late to describe exactly how this female oculist employed the wretched tools she had to work with. I was fortunate enough to see a dif- ferent o])eration going on in the same house, of which I can give a tolerable accoTint. I found there another woman shaving a child's head with a shark's tooth stuck into the end of a piece of stick. I observed that she nrst wet the hair with a rag dipped in water. V;- i ,< J- ! 5.; 5 i 120 applying her instrament to that part wliicii she had previously soaked. The operation seemed to give no pain to the child ; although the hair was taken off as close as if one of our razors had been enii)loyed. Encouraged by what I now saw, I soon after tried one of these singular instruments upon myself, and found it to be an excellent succedaneum. However, the men of these islands have recourse to another contrivance wlien they shave their beards. The operation is performed with two shells ; one of wliich they place under a small part of the beard, and with the other, applied above, they scrape that part oir. In this manner they are able to shave very close. The process is, indeed, rather tedious, but not painful ; and there are men amongst them who seem to profess this trade. 1 1 was as comn\on, while we were here, to see our sailors go ashore to have their beards scraped oir, after the fashion of Hapaee, as it was to see their chiefs come on board to be shaved by oiir barbers. Finding that littlo or nothing of the produce of the island was now brought to the ships, I resolved to change our station, and to await Fee- nou's return from Vavaoo in some other convenient anchoring -place, where refreshments might still be met with. Acconlingly, in the forenoon of the 26th we got under sail, and stood to the southward along the reef of the island. At half-[tast two in the after- noon, I hauled into a bay that lies between the south end of Lefooga and the north end of Hoolaiva, and there anchored in seventeen fathoms water. The Discovery did not get to an an- chor till sunset. She had touched upon one of the shoals, but backed otf again without receiving any damage. The place where we now anchored is much better sheltered than that which we had lately come from ; but between tlie two is another anchoring statiiin nmch better than either. Lefooga and Hoolaiva are divided from each other by a reef of coral rocks, which is dry at low water ; so that one may walk at that time from the one to the otbor without wetting a foot,. Some COOK'S TOYAGES. [VoT.ni.B.lI.CH.Vl of our gentlemen, who landed in the latter island, did not find the least mark of cultivation or habitation upon it ; except a single hut, the residence of a man employed to catch fish and turtle. At daybreak on the 27th, I made the signal to weigh ; and as I in* tended to attempt a passage to Anna- mooka in my way to Tongataboo by the south-west amongst the interven- ing islands, T sent the master in a boat to sound before the ships. But before we could get nnder sail, the wind became unsettled ; which made it unsafe to attempt a passage this way till wo were better acquainted with if. I therefore lay fast, and made tiie signal for the master to re- turn, and afterward sent him and the master of the Discovery, each in a boat, with instructions to examine the channels as far as they could, allowing themselves time to get back to the ships before the close of the day.i At daybreak on the 29th, I weighed with a fine breeze at ENE., and stood to the westward, with a view to re- turn to Annamooka by the track we had already experienced. We were followed by several sailing canoes, in one of which was the King. As soon as he got on board the Resolution, he inquired for his brother and the others who had remained with us all night. It now appeared that they had stayed without his leave, for he gave them in a very few words such a reprimand as brought tears from their eyes ; and yet they were men not less than thirty years of age. He was, however, soon ^ While l.ying here they received a visit from Poulaho, the real king of Tongataboo, who brought two fat hogs on board as a present, but which are described as not so fat as himself. He endeavoured to convince them that he and not Fcenou was the king. Early in the morning of the last day of their stay, he brought a present to Captain Cook of one of their natiira caps, which was covered with the tail feathers of tropic birds, and highlr prizevi oven amongst themrielvw a of t>g8 lire If. kil /UHK 1777.] reconciled to their mr^ing a longer •tay ; for on quitting us he left nis brother and five of his attendants on board. We had also the company of a chief, just then arrived from Tonga- taboo, whose name was Tooboueitoa. The moment he arrived he sent his canoe away, and declared that he and five more who came with him would sleep on board ; so that I had now my cabin filled with visitors. This, in- deed, was some inconvenience ; but I bore with it more willingly, as they brought plenty of provisions with them as presents to me ; for which they always had suitable returns. About 1 o'clock in the afternoon the easterly wind was succeeded by a fresh breeze at SSE. Our course now being SSW. , or more southerly, we were obliged to ply to windward, and did but just fetch the north side of Footooha by 8 o'clock, where we spent the night, making short boards. The next morn- ing we plied up to Lofan^a, where, according to the information of our friends, there was anchorage. It was 1 o'clock in the afternoon before we got soundings, un'ler the lee or north- west side, in forty fathoms water, near half-a-mile from the shore ; but the bank was steep and the bottom rocky, and a chain of breakers lay to le-'ward. All these circumstanc-'s being against us, I stretched away for Kotoo, with the expectation of finding better an- choring ground under that island. But so much time had been spent in plying up to Lofanga, that it was dark before we reached the other ; and, finding no place to anchor in, the night was spent as the preceding one. At daybreak on the 31st, I stood for the channel which is between Kotoo and the reef of rockit that lies to the westward of it ; but on drawing near I found the wind too scant to lead us through. I therefore bore up on the outside of the reef, and stretched to the SW. till near noon, when, per- ceiving that we made r progress to windward, and being apprehensive of losing the islands with so many of the natives on board, I tacked and stood back, intending to wait till «>me man favourable opportunity. ISLAND OP KOTOO. We did but jnst fetch in witk Foo- toolia, between which and Kotoo we spent the night under reefed topsaila and foresail. The wind blew fresh, and by squalls, with rain ; and we were not without apprehensions of danger. I kept the deck till mid- night, when I left it to the master, with such directions as I thought would keep the ships clear of the shoals and rocks that lay round us. But after making a trip to the north, and standing back again to the south, our ship, by a small shift of the wind, fetched farther to the windward than was expected. By this means she was very near running full upon a low sandy isle, called Pootoo Pootooa, surrounded with breakers. It hap- Eened very fortunately that the people ad just been ordered upon the deck, to put the ship about, and the most of them were at their stations, so that the necessary movements were not only executed with judgment, but also with alertness, and this alone savpd us from destruction. The Dis- covery, being astern, was out of danger. Such hazardous situations are the un- avoidable f ompan'ons of the man who goes upon a voyage of discovery. This circumstance frightened our passengers so much, that they ex- pressed a strong desire to get ashore. Accordingly, as soon as daylight re- turned, I hoisted out a boat, and ordered the officer who commanded her, after landing them at Kotoo, to sound along the reef that spits off frum that island, for anchorage. For 1 was full as much tired as they could be with beating about amongst the surrounding isles and shoals, and de- termined to get to an anchor some- where or other if possible. WhiU the boat was absent, we attempted to turn the ships through the channel between the sandy isle and the reef of Kotoo, in expectation of finding ix moderate depth of water behind then\ to anchor in. But meeting with a tide or current against us, we were obliged to desist, and anchor in fifty fathoms water, with the sandy isle bearing E. by N., one mile distant We lay here till the 4th. While is M Ji! 4: *^ • 1 122 this gtation we were several times visited >»y the King, by Tooboueitoa, and by people from the neighbour- ing; ialauds, who came off to trade with us, tliough the wind blew very fresli most of the time. The master was now sent to sound the channels between the islands that lie to the eastward ; and I landed on Kotoo, to examine it, in the forenoon of the 2d [of June]. This island is scarcely ac- cessible by boats, on account of coral reefs that surround it It is not more than a mile and a half or two miles long, and not so broad. The NW. end of it is low, like the islands of Ilanaee ; but it rises suddenly in the middle, and terminates in reddish clayey cliffs, at the SE. end, about thirty feet high. The soil in that quarter is of the same sort as in the clifl's ; but in the other parts it is a loose, black mould. It produces the •ame fruits and roots which we found at the other islands, is tolerably cul- tivated, but thinly inhabited. While 1 was walking all over it, our people were employed in cutting some grass for the cattle ; and we planted some melon seeds, with whicn the natives seemed much pleased, and enclosed them with branches. On our return to the boat, we passed by two or three ponds of dirty water, which was more or less brackish in each of them ; and aaw one of their burj'ing-places, which was much neater than those that were met with at Hapaec. On the 4th, at seven in tha morn- ing, we weighed, and, with a fresh gale at ESE. stood away for Anna- mooka, where we anchored next morning nearly in the same station which we had so lately ^^cupied. I went on shore soon after, and found the inhabitants very busy in their plantations, digging up yams to bring to market ; and in the course of the day about 200 of them had assembled on the beach, and traded with as much eagerness r.s during our late visit Their stork apjieared to have been recniited much, though we had returned so soon ; L'^t instead of bread- fruit, which was the only article we oould purchase on our first arrival. COOK'S VOYAGtS. [Voy. III. B. IL Ch. TI. nothing was to be seen now but yams and a few plantains. This shows the quick succession of the seasons, at least of the diiferent vegetables pro- duced here at the several times of the year. It ai>peared also that they had been very busy while we were absent in cultivating ; lor we now saw several largo plantain fields in places which we had so lately seen lying waste. The yams were now in the greatest perfection ; and we procured a good quantity in exchanges for pieces of iron. These people, in the absence of Toobou, whom we left behind u& at Kotoo with Poulaho and other chiefs, seemed to be under little sub> ordination. For we could not per- ceive this day that one man assumed more authority than another. Before I returned on board, 1 visited the teveral places where 1 had sown melon seeds, and had the mortification to find that most of them were destroyed by a small ant ; but some pine-apple plants, which I had also left, were in a thriving state. About noon next day Feenon ar« rived from Vavaoo. He told us thai several canoes, laden with hogs and other provisions, which had sailed with him from that island, had been lost, owing to the late blowing weather; and that everybody on board them had perished. This melancholy tale did not seem to affect any of his coun- trymen who heard it ; and as to our- selves, we were by this time too well acquainted with his character to give much credit to such a story. The truth probably was, that he had not been able to prociire at Vavaoo the supplies which he expected, or, if he got any there, that he had left them at Hapaee, which lay in his way ba' ' and where he could not but receiie intelligence that Poulaho hail been with us, who therefore, he knew, would as his superior have all the merit and r»fward of inocuring them, though he had not any share of the tiouble. The invention of this loss at sea was, however, well imagined. For there had lately been very blow- ing weather, insomuch that the King and oth«i chiefs, who had followed us Juke 1777.] from Hapaee to Kotoo, had been left there, not carmg to ventxire to sea when we did ; but desired 1 might wait for them at Aunaniooka, Ahich wa3 the reason of my anchoring there this second time, and of my not pro- ceeding directly to Toiigatahoo. The following morning, Poulaho and the other chiefs who had been windbound with liim arrived. I hap- pened, at this time to be ashore in company with Feenou, who now seemed to be sensible of the impro- priety of his conduct in assuming a character that did not belong to him. For he not only acknowledged Poulaho to bo King of Tongataboo and the other isles, but affected to insist much on it, which no doubt was with a view to make amends for his former pre- sumption. 1 left him to visit this greater man, whom I found sitting with a few people before him. But, every one hastening to pay court to him, the circle increased pretty fast. I was very desirous of observing Fee- nou's behaviour on this occasion ; and had the most convincing proof of his inferiority, for he ])laced himself amongst the rest that sat before Pou- laho as attendants on his majesty. He seemed at iirst rather abashed, as some of us were present who had been used to see him act a different part ; but he Soon recovered himself. Some little conversation passed between these two chiefs, which none of us understood ; nor wore we satisfied with Oraai's interpretation of it We were, however, by this time sufficiently u n deceived as to Feenou's rank. Both he and Poulaho went on board with me to dinner ; but only the latter sat at table. Feenou, having made his obeisance in the usual way, saluting his sovereign's foot with his head and hands, retired out of the cabin. The King had before told us that this would happen ; and it now appeared that Feenou could not even eat nor drink in his royal prosenou. At 8 o'clock next nioniing we ARRIVAL AT T02TGATAB00. 123 out us ; but every one of them outrun the ships considerably. Feenou waa to have taken his passage in tlie Resolution, but preferred his own canoe, and put two men on board to conduct as to the best andiorage. Wo steered S. by W. by compass. We continued the same courso till Z o'clock next morning, when, seeing some lights ahead, and nf>t knowing wlietlijr they were on shore or on board the canoes, wo hauled the wind, and made a short trip each way till daybreak. We then re- sumed our course to the S. by W. ; anpe:irance having satisfied us that we had ^jeen under a mistake in considering Feenou as the sovereign of theae islands, we had been at first much puzzled about his real rank ; hut that was by this time ascertained, Feenou was one of Mareewageo's sons, and Toohoueitoa was anotlier. On my landing I found the King in the house adjoining to our tent, along with our people who resided on shore. The moment 1 got to him, he bestowed upon me a present of a large hog and a quantity of yams. About the dusk of the evonmg a number of mo off the outer rind with a mussel -shell. The bark is then rolled up to take off the con- vexity which it had round the stalk, and macerated in water for some time (they say a night). After this, it is laid across the trunk of a small tree squared, and beaten with a square wooden instrument, about a foot long, full of coarse grooves on all sides; but sometimes with one that is plain. According to the size of the bark, a piece is soon produced ; but the operation is often repeated by another hand, or it is folded several times and beaten longer, which seems rather intended to close than to divide its texture. When this is sufficiently eifected, it is spread out to dry ; the pieces being from four to six or more feet in length, and half as broad. They are then given to another per- son, who joins the pieces, by smear- ing part of them over with the viscous juice of a berry called "to-oo," which serves as a glue. Having been thus lengthened, they are laid over a large piece of wood, with a kind of stamp, made of a fibrous substance pretty closely interwoven, placed beneath. They then take a bit of cloth, and dip it in a juice expressed from the bark of a tree called " kokka," which they rub briskly upon the piece that is making. This at once leaves a dull brown colour and a dry gloss upon its surface; the stamp Pt the same time making a slight impres- sion, that answers no other purpose that I could see but to make the several pieces that are glued together stick a little more fimlv. In this manner they proceed, joining and staining by degrees, till they produce a piece ot cloth of such length and breadth as they want; generally leaving a border of a foot broad at the sides, and longer at the ends, unstained. Throughout the whole, if any parts of the original pieces are too tnin, or have holes, wkich is often the case, they glne spare bill 12& opon them till COOK'S VOYAGES. {■I '!' they become of an equal thickness, when they want to produce a black colour, they mix the soot procured from an oily nut called "dooe dooe," with the juice of the '* kokka," in different quantities, according to the proposed depth of the tinge. They say that the black sort of cloth, which is most commonly glazed, makes a cold dress, but the other a warm one; and, to obtain strength in both they are always careful to join the small pieces length- wise, which makes it impossible to tear the cloth in any direction but one. On our return from the country we met with Feenou, and took him and another young chief on board to dinner. "NVlicn our fare was set upon the table, neither of them would eat a bit ; saying that they were " taboo avy." But after inquiring how the victuals had been dressed, having found that no **avy" (water) had been used in cooking a pig and some yams, they both sat down and made a very hearty meal; and, on being assured that there was no water in the wine, they drank of it also. From this we conjectured that on some account or another they were at this time forbidden to use water; or, which was more probable, they did not like the water we made use of, it being taken up out of one of their bathing places. This was not the only time of our meeting with people that were "taboo avy ;" but for what reason we never could tell with any degree of certainty. Kext day, the 17th, was fixed upon by Mareewagee for giving a grand "Haiva," or enteitainment, to which we were all invited. For this purpose \ large space had been cleared before the temporary hut of this chief near our post, as an area where the per- formances were to be exhibited. In the morning great multitudes of the natives came in from the country, every one carrying a pole about six feet long upon his shoulder; and at each end of every pole a yam was suspended. These yams and poles were deposited on each side of the [V0Y.III.B.II.CH.VII. area, so as to forui two large heam, decorated with different sorts 01 small fish, and piled up to the greatest advantage. They were Mareewagee's present to Captain Clerke and me ; and it was hard to say whether the wood for fuel or the yams for food were of most value to us. As for the fish, they might servo to please the sight, but were very offensive to the smell ; part of them having been kept two or three days, to be presented to us on this occasion. Everything being thus prepared, about 11 o'clock they began to exhibit various dances, which they call "mai." The music ^ consisted at first of seventy men as a chorus, who sat down; and amidst them were placed three instruments which we called drams, though very unlike them. They are largo cylindrical pieces of wood, or trunks of trees, from three to four feet long, some twice as thick as an ordinary- sized man, and some smaller, hol- lowed entirely out, but c- so at both ends, and open only by a chink about three inches broad running almost the whole length of the drums; by which opening the rest of the wood is certainly hollowed, though the opera- tion must be diflBcult. This instru- ment is called "naffa;" and with the chink turned toward them, they sit and beat strongly upon it with two cylindrical pieces of hard wood about a foot long and as thick as the wrist ; by which means they produce a rude though loud and powerful sound. They vary the strength and rate of their beating at different parts of the dance ; and also change the tones, by beating in the middle or near the end of their drum. The first dance consisted of four ranks of twenty-four men each, hold- ing in their hands a little, thin, light wooden instrament, above two feet long, and in shape not unlike a small oblong paddle. With these, which * Mr Anderson's description of the entertainments of this day, being much fuller than Captain Cook's, has been adopted, ua on % former occa- sion. MAREEWAGEE'S ENTERTAINMENT, they made Junk 1777.] great many diQ'erent motions ; such as pointing them towards the ground on one a*de, at the same time mclin- ing their bodies that way, from which they were shifted to the opposite side in the same manner ; then pas.iing them quickly tVora one hand to the other, and twirling them about very dexterously, with a variety of other manoeuvres, all which were accom- panied by conespouding attitudes of the body. Their motions were at first slow, but quickened as the drums beat faster ; and they recited sen- tences in a musical tone the whole time, which were answered by the chorus ; but at the end of a short apace they all joined, and finished with a shout. After ceasing about two or three minutes, they began as before, and continued, with short in- tervals, above a quarter of an hour, when, the rear rank dividing, shifted themselves very slowly round each end, and meeting in the front, formed the first rank, the whole number con- tinuing to recite the sentences as before. The other ranks did the same successively, till that which at first was the front became the rear ; and the evolution continued in the same manner till tho last rank regained its first situation. They then began a much quicker dance (though slow at first), and sang for about ten minutes, when the whole body divided into two parts, retreated a little, and then ap- proached, forming a sort of circular figure, which finished the dance, the dnmis being removed, and the chorus going off the field at the same time. The second dance had only two drums, with forty men for a chorus ; and the dancers, or rather actors, consisted of two ranks, the foremost having seventeen and the other fifteen persons. Feenon was at their head, or in the middle of the front rank, which is the principal place in these cases. They danced and recited sen- tences, with some very short intervals, for about half-an-hour, sometimes quickly, sometimes more slowly, but with such a degree of exactness as if ^ Hm motions mm made by one 129 great credit man, which did them Near the close, the back rank divided, came round, and took the place of the front, which again resumed its situa« tion, as in the first dance ; and when thoy finished, the drums and chorus, as before, went off. Three drums (which at least took two, and sometimes three, men to carry them) were now brought in, and seventy men sat down as a chorus to the third dance. This consisted of two ranks of sixteen persons each, with young Toobou at their head, who was richly ornanientod with a sort of garment covered with red feathers. These danced, sang, and twirled the " pngge " as before, but in general much (luickor, and performed so well that they had the constant applauses of the s})ectJitors. A motion that met with particular approbation was one ii which they held the face aside as if ashamed, and the **pagge" before it. The back rank closed before the front one, and that again resumed its place, as in the two former dances ; but then they began again, formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each end of the area, and left the greatest part of the ground clear. At thai instant two men entered very hastily, and exercised the clubs which they use in battle. They did this by first twirling them in their hands and making circular strokes before them with great force and quickness, but so skilfully managed that though standing quite close they never inter- fered. They shifted their clubs from hand to hand with great dexterity; and after continuing a little time, kneeled and made different motions, tossing the clubs up in the air, which they caught as they fell, and then went off as hastily as they entered. Their heads were covered with pieces of white cloth tied at the crown almost like a nightcap, with a wreath of foliage round the forehead ; but they had only very small pieces of white cluth tied about 'licir waists, probably that they might be cool and free from every encumbrance or weight. A person with a spear, dressed like the former, then came in, and in the siuim I ! K 130 hasty mauiHrr, looking ahout eagerly as if in search of someltody to throw it at. He then ran liastily to one side of tho crowd in the front, and put himself in a threatening attitude, as if he meant to strike with Lis spear it one of them, bending tho knee a little, ind trembling as it were with rags. Me continued in this manner only a few seconds, when ho moved to the other side, and having stood '.n tlie same posture there for tlie same short time, retreated from the ground IS fast as when he made his appear- ince. The dancers, who had divided nto two parties, kept repeating some- Uiing slowly all this while, and now adviinced and joined again, ending with nniversara])i)lause. It should seem that this dance was considered as one of their capital performances, if we miglit judge from some of the principal people being engaged in it. For one of the drums was beat by Futtafaihe, the brother of Poulaho ; another by Feenou ; and the third, which did not belong to the chorus, by Mareewagee himself, at the entrance of his hut. The last dance had forty men and two dnims as a chorus. It consisted of sixty men who had not danced be- fore, disposed in three rows, having twenty-four in front. But before they began we were entertained with a pretty long preliminaiy harangue, in which the whole body made re- sponses to a single person who spoke. They recited sentences (perhaps verses) alternately with the chorus, and made many motions with the "pagge,"in a very brisk mode, which were all applauded with *' maroeai " and " fy- fogge," words expressing two different degrees of praise. They divided into two bodies, with their backs to each other, formed again, shifted their ranks as in the other dances, divided and retreated, making room for two cham])ions, who exercised their clubs as before ; and after them two others, the danceih all the time reciting slowly in turn with the chorus, after which they advanced and finished These dances, if they can properly be called so, lastod from 11 till near 3 COOK'S VOYAGES. IToy.III.B.I1.Ch.VIL o'clock; and though they were donlit* less intended particularly either in honour of us, or to show a specimen of their dexterity, vast numbers of their own people attended as specta- tors. Their numbers could not be computed exactly, on account of the ineciuality of thf ground ; but by reckoning the inner circle, and th» number in depth, which was between twenty and thirty in many places, we supposed that there must be near 4000. At the same time there were round the trading place at the tent and straggling about, at least as mnny more ; and some of us comjmted that at this time there were not less than 10,000 or 12,000 peojde in our neigh- bomhood — that is, within the com- pass of a quarter of a mile, — drawn together for the most part by mere curiosity. At night we were entertained with the "bomai," or night dances, on a space before Feenou's temporary habitation. They lasted about three hours, in which time we had about twelve of them performed, much after the same manner as those at Hapaee. But in two, that were performed by women, a number of men came and formed a circle within theirs ; and in another, consisting of twenty-four men, there were a number of motions with the hands that we had not seen before, and were highly apjdauded. The music was also once changed in the course of the night, and in one of the dances Feenou appeared, at the head of fifty men who had performed at Hapaee, and he was well dressed with linen, a large piece of gauze, and some little pictures hung round his neck. But it was evident, after the diversions were closed, that we had put these poor people, or rather that they had put themselves, to much inconvenience; for being drawn to- gether on this uninhabited part of their island, numbers of them were obliged to lie down and sleep under the bushes, by the side of a tree, or of a canoe — na3% many either lay down in the open air, wliich they ire not fond of, or walked about all th-s night. Tho whole of this entertain JirNEl777.] THEFTS COMMITTED BY THE NATIVES. 181 on luze, lund ifter we fcher Uich to- of rore ider or riay fire I the ihv ment was conducted with far better order tlian could liave been expected in BO large an assembly. Amongst 8nch a multitude there must be a number of vU-disjmsed people, and we hourly experienced it. All our care and attention did not prevent their plundering us in every quarter, and that in the most daring and insolent manner. There was hardly anything that they did not attcnij)t to steal ; and yet, as the crowd was always so great, 1 would not allow the sentries to fire, lest the innocent should suJlVr For the guilty. Tliey once, at noon- day, ventured to aim at taking an anchor from off the Discovery's bows, and they would certainly have suc- ceeded if the iluke had not hooked oue of the chain plates in lowering down the shiji's side, from which they could not disengage it by hand, and tackles were things they were unacquainted with. The only act of violence they were guilty of was the breaking the shoulder-bone of one of our goats, so that she died soon after. This loss fell upon themselves, as she was one of tliose that I intended to leave upon the island ; but of this the person who did it was ignorant. Early in the morning of the 18th, an incident happened that strongly marked oue of their customs. A man got out of a canoe into the quarter- gallery of the Resolution, and stole from thence a pe^vter basin. He was discovered, pursued, and brought alongside the ship. On this occasion three old women who were in the canoe made loud lamentations over the prisoner, boating their breasts and faces in a most violent manner with the inside of their fists, and all this was done without shedding a tear. This mode of expressing grief is what occasions the mark which almost all this people bear on the face over the cheek-bones. The repeated blows which they inflict upon this part abrade the skin, and make even the blood flow out in a considerable quantity ; and when the wounds are recent they look as if a hollow circle had been burned in. On many occa- noas they actually out this part of the face with an instrument, in the same man net' as the people of Otaheite cut their heads. This day I bestowed on Mareewa* gee some presents in return for those we had received from him the day be- fore ; and as the entertainments which he had then exhibited for our amuse* ment called upon us to make some exhibition in our way, 1 ordered the party of marines to go through their exeivise on the spot where his dances had heon performed, and in the even- ing ]ilayea off some fireworks at the same place. Foulaho, with all the principal chiefs, and a gre;it number of people of all denominations, were present. The platoon firing, which was executed tolerably well, seemed to give them pleasure ; but they were lost in astonishment when they be- held our water rockets. They paid but little attention to the fife and drum, or French horns, that played durin" the intervals. The King sat behind everybody, because no one is allowed to sit behind him, and, that his view might not be obstructed, nobody sat immediately before him ; but a lane, as it were, was made by the people from him quite down to the space allotted for the fireworks. In ex])ectation of this evening show, the circle of natives about our tent being pretty laige, they engaged the gieatcst part of the aftenioon in box- ing and \NTestling ; the first of which exercises they call "fangntooa" .and the second "fooboo." When anj' of them choosesto wrestle, hegotsu]) from one side of the ring, and crosses the ground in a sort of measured pace, clapping smart 1 J' on the elbow joint of one arm, which is bent, and pro- dufjes a hollow sound ; that is reck- oned the challenge. If no person comes OTit from the oppnsite side to engage him, he returns in the same manner and sits down ; but sometimes stands clapping in the midst of the ground to provoke some one to come out. If an opponent appear, they come together with marks of the greatest good-ntfiure, generally smil- ing, and taking time to adjust the piece of cloth which is fastened romid I , •II I'l 132 the wdat. They then lay liold of each other hy this cirdle, viiih a hand on each side ; anu he who succeeda in drawing; his antagonist to him, im- mediate 1, tries to lilt him upon liis breast and throw him upon his back ; and if he be able to turn round with him two or three times in that jwjsi- tion before he throws him, liis dex- terity never fails of procuring jdau- dits from the spectators. If they be more equally matched, they close soon, and endeavour to throw each other by entwining th«ir legs, or lift- ing each other from the ground, in which struggles they show a prodigi- ous exertion of strength, every muscle, as it were, being ready to burst w ith straining. Wli.cn one is thrown, he immediately quits the field ; but the victor sits down for a few seconds, then gets up and goes to the side he came from, who proclaim the victory aloud, in a sentence delivered slowly and in a musical cadence. After sit- ting a short space, he rises again and challenges, when sometimes several antagonists make their appearance ; but he has the privilege of choosing which of them he pleases to wrestle with, and has likewise the i>refercnce of challenging again, if he should throw his adversary, until he himself be vanquished ; and then the opposite side sing the song of victory in favour of their chamjnon. It also often happens that live or six rise from each side and challenge together, in which case it is common to see three or four couple engaged on the field at once. 13ut it is astonishing to see what temper they preserve in this exercise, for we observed no instances of their leaving the spot with the least displeasure in their countenances. When they find that they are so equally matched as not to be likely to throw each other, they leave off by mutual consent. And if the fall of one is not fair, or if it does not appear very clearly who has had the advantage, both sides sing the victory, and then they engage again. Bat no person who has been van- quished can engage with his conqueror a second time. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. II. Cm. VII, The boxers advance sideways changing the side at every pace, with one arm stretched fully out before^ the other behind, and holding a piece of cord in one hand, which they wrap finnly about it when they find an antagonist, or else have done so before they enter. This I imagine they do to prevent dislocation of the hand or fingers. Their blows are directed chiefly to the head, but sometimes to the sides, and are )y readily consented. But some having after- ward objected to the King's going, he instantly rose up and declared he would be tho first man. Accordingly we came on board. I kept them there till near 4 o'clock, when I conducted them ashore, and soon after the kid and one of tho turkey cocks were brought back. The other, they said, should be restored the next morning. I believed this would happen, and re- leased both them and the canoes. After the chiefs had left us, I walked out with Omai to observe how the people about us fared, for this was the time of their meals. I found that in general they were at short commons. Nor is this to be wondered at, since most of the yams and ether provisions which they brought with them were sold to us ; and they never thought of returning to their own habitations while they could find any sort of sub- sistence in our neighbourhood. Our station was upon an uncultivated point of land, so that there were noo'j If 1 I !l « 1' It i ! Hi I .1 I ; Ml ] i^ 11: ;( i I ■ ■? i 134 COOK'S yOYAGES. of tlio islaii.l-jis who, properly, resided witliia half-a-milo of us. But even at tliia distance, the multitudo of strangers being so great, one uiiglit have expected that every house would have been mnc'li crowded. It was quite other.vise. The families resid- ing there were as iiiuch left to them- selves as if there had not been a supernumerary visitor near them. A 11 the straijgers lived in little temporaiy sheds, or under trees and bushes ; and the cocoa-trees were stripped of tlieir branches to erect habitations for tlie cliiefs. In this walk we met with about half-a-dozen women in one place at supper. Two of the company, I observed, being fed by the others, on our asking the reason they said *' taboo mattee.'* On fuiiher inquiry v.o found that one of them had two months before washed the dead cor'^/ e of a chief, and that on this accoui^c she was not to handle any food for live months. The other had performed the same office to the corpse of an- otlier pe.son of inferior rank, and was now under the same restriction, but not for so long a time. At another place hard by we saw another woman fed, and we learned that she had as- sisted in washing the corpse of the fibove-mcntiuned chief. Early the next morning the King came on board to invite me to an entertainment which ha proposed to give the same day. He had already been under the barber's hands, his head being all besmeared with red pigment in order to redden his hair, which was naturally of a dark brown 3Plour. After breakfast i aLlended him to the shore, and we found his people very busy, in two places in the front of our area, fixing in an up- right 3nd square position, thus [° J, four very long posts near t%vo feet from each other. The space between the posts was afterwards filled up with yams, and as they went on filling it, they fastened pieces of sticks across from post to post at the distance of about every four feet, to prevent the posts from separating by the weight of the enclosed yams, and also to get up by. When the yam» had reached the [Voy.III.B.II.Ch.VIL top of the first posts, they fastened others to them, and so continued till each pile was the height of thirty feet or upwards. On the top of one they placed two baked hogs, and or, the top of the other u living one ; ai,d another they tied by tiie legs half- way up. It was mutter of curiosity to observe with wliat facility and de- spatch these two } ;los were raised. Had our seauien been ordered to exe- cute such a work, they would have sworn tiiat it could not be perlbrmed without carpenters ; and the carpen- ters would htf.ve called to their aid a dozen dilferent sorts of tools, and have expended at least a hundred- weight of nails; and after all it would have employed them as many days as it did these people hours, iiut sea- men, like most other amphibious, ani- mals, are always the most helpless on land. After tiiey had completed these two piles, they made several other heaps of yams and bread-fruit on each side of the area, to which were added a turtle and a large quantity of excel- lent fish. All this, with a piece of cloth, a mat, and some red feathers, was the King's present to me ; and he seemed to pique himself on exceeding, as he really did, Feenou's liberality which I experienced at Hapaee. About 1 o'clock they beg-an the "mai," or dances, the first of which was almost a copy of the first that was exhibited at Mareewagee's enter- tainment. The second was conducted by Captain Furneaux's Toobou, who, as we mentioned, had also danced there ; and in this four or five women were introduced, who went through the several parts with as much exact- ness as the men. Towards the end, the performei's divided to leave room for two champions, who exercised their cl''bs, as described on a former occasion. And in the third danc«, whicli was the lest now presented, two more men with their clubs displayed their dexterity. The dances were succeeded by wrestlinsr and boxing, and one man entered tne lists vith ft sort of club made from the stem of a cocca-leaf, which is firm and heavy, but could find no antagonist to engage Jinnsl777.] SOME OF THE OFFICERS PLUNDERED. 135 a him at so rough a sport. At night we had the " bomai " repeated, in which Poulaho himself danced, dressed in English luanufacture. But neither thes» nor the dances in the daytime were so considerable, nor carried on with so much spirit, as Feenou's or Mareewagee's ; and tliercfore there is las occasion to be more particular in our description of them. In order to be present the whole time, I dined ashore. The King sat down with c!s, but he neither ate nor drank. I found that this was ovviiig to the presence of a female whom, at his desire, I had admitted to the dining party, and who, as we after- wards understood, had superior rank to himself. As soon as this great persouagij had dined, she stepped up to the King, who put his hands to her feet, and then she retired. He imme- diately dipped his f.ugers into a glass of wine, and then received the obeis- ance of all her followera. This was the single instance we ever observed of Lis paying this mark of reverence to any person. At the King's desire I ordered some fireworks to be played off in the evening, but nnfoi Innately being damaged, this exhibition did not answer expectation. CHAPTER Vin. As no more eutei'tainments were to be expected on either side, and tlio curiosity of the populace was by this time pretty well satisfied, on \.he day after Poulaho's " Haiva," moct of th.em left us. We still, however, had thieves about us ; and, encouraged by the negligence of our own peop.'e, we had continual instances of their de- predations. Some of the oUIcers be- longing to both ships, who had made AD excursion into the interior parts cf the island without my Itiave, and indeed without my knowledge, re- turned this evening, after an absence of two days. They had taken with them their muskets, with the neces- sary ammunition, and several small articles of the favomite comiuoiiities ; all which the natives had tHo dexterity to steal from them in the course ol their expedition. This affair was likely to be attended with incon- venient consequences. For our plun- dered travellers, upon their returu, without cousuUing me, employed Oniai to complain to the King of the treatment they had met witj. He, not knowing what step I should take, and, from what had already liappencd, fearing lest I might lay hiui again under restraint, went oif early the next morning. His example was fol- lowed by Feenou ; so that we had not a chief of any authority remaining in our neighbourhood. I was very much displeased at this, and repri- manded Oiaai for having presumed to meddle. This re[irimand put him upon Ills metal to bring his friend Feenou back ; and he succeeded in the negotiation, having this powerful argument to urge, tliat he might depend upon my usin» no violent measures to oblige the natives to restore waat had been taken from the gentlemen. Fee- nou, trusting to this declaration, re- turned toward the evening ; and, encouraged by his reception, Poulaho favoured us with his company the day after. Both these chiefs, upon this occa- sion, very justly observed to me that if any of my people at any time wanted to go into the country, they ought to be acquainted with it ; in which case they would send proper people along with them, and then they would be answerable for their safety. And 1 am convinced from experience that, by taking this very reasonable pre- caution, a man and his property may be as safe among these islanders as in other pails of the more civilised world. Though I gave myself no trouble about the recovery of the things stolen upon this occasion, most of them, through Feenou's interposition, were recovered, except one musket and a few other articles of inferior value. By this time also we had recovered the tu; - key cock and most of the tools and other matters that had been stolen from our workmen. We had now recruited the ships with wwml and ,1 !i ^5 : ! I 1 136 water ; we had finished the repairs of our sails ; and had little more to ex- Sect from the inhabitants of tho pro- uce of their island. However, as an eclipse of the sun u'as to happen upon the 5th of the next month, I resolved to defer sailing till that time had elapsed, in order to have a chance of observing it. Having therefore some days of leisure before me, a party of ns, accompanied by Poulaho, set out early next morning in a boat, for Mooa, the village where he and the other gieat men usually reside. As we rowed up the inlet, we met with fourteen canoes fishing in company, in one of which was Poulaho's son. In each canoe was a triangular net, extended between two poles, at the lower end of which was a cod^ to re- ceive and secure the fish. They had already caught some fine mullets, and they put about a dozen into our boat. I desired to see their method of fish- ing, which they readily comy>lied with. A shoal of fish was supposed to be upon one of the banks, which they instantly enclosed in a long net like a seine or set-net. This the fishers, one getting into the water out of each boat, surrounded with the tri- angular nets in their hands ; with wMch they scooped the fish out of the seine, or caught them as they at- tempted to leap over it. They showed Ufl the whole process of this operation (which seemed to be p sure one), by throwing in some of the fish they had iiiCady caught, for at this time there happened to be none upon the bank that was enclosed. Leaving the prince and his fishing party, we jr eeded to the bottom of the bay, and landed where we had done before on our fruitless errand to see Mareewagee. As soon as we got on ahore, the Kino ^.jsired Omai to tell me that I need be under no ap- prehensions about the boat or any- thing in her, for not a single article would be touched by any one ; and we Afterward found this to be the case. We were immediately conducted to one of Poulaho's houses not far off, ^ A bag, or pocket. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.III.B.II.Ch.VIII and near the public one, or '*malaee,' in which we had been, when we firs visited Mooa. This, though prett> lar^e, seemed to be his private habi- tation, and was situated withii: s plantation. The King took his seal at one end of the house, and the people who came to visit him sat down, as they arrived, in a semicircle at the other end. The first thin// done was to prepare a bowl of "kava, ' and to order some yams to be baked for us. While these were getting ready, some of us, accompanied by a few of the King's attendants, and Omai as our interpreter, walked oat to take a view of a "fiatooka," oi burying- place, which we had observtf to be almost close by the house, and was much more extensive, and seem- ingly of more consequence, than anj wo had seen at the other islands. We were told that it belonged to tht King. It consisted of three prettj large houses, situated upon a risinp ground, or rather just by the brink ol it, with a small one at some distance, all ranged longitudinally. The mid- dle house of the three first was by much the largest, and placed in a square, twenty -four paces by twenty - eight, raised about three feet. The other houses were placed on litth mounts raised artificially to the sami height. The floors of these houses, as also the tops of tlif' m.ouuts round them, were covered with loose, fim {)ebbl3s, and the wliole was enclosed )y large flat stones of hard coral rock, properly hewn, placed on their edges ; one of which stones measured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thickness. One of th< houses, contrary to what we had seen before, was open on one side; and within it were two rude wooden bust."- »/f men, one near the entrance and the Mlier farther in. On inquiring of the natives who had followed us to the giound, but durst not enter here, what these images were intended for, they made us as sensible as we could wish, that they were merely memo- rials of some chiefs who had beea buried there, and not the represent** tions of any deitv. Such monomonts, JrNK 1777.] it shouM seem, i'e seldom raised ; for these had probably been erected several ages ago. We were told that the dead had been buried in each of these houses; but no marks of this appeared. In one of thenx was the carved head of an Otaheite canoe, which had been driven ashore on their coast, and deposited here. At tli^ foot of the rising ground was a lorge area or grass plot, with ditVerent trees planted about it; amongst which were several of those called "etoa," very lar^e. These, as they resemble the cypress, had a fine effect in such a place. There was also a row of low palms near one of the houses, and be- hind it a ditch in which lay a great number of old baskets. After dinner, or rather after we had refreshed ourselves with some provi- sions which we had brought with us from our ship, wo made an excursion into tlie country, taking a pretty large circuit, attended by one of the King's ministers. Our train was not great, as he would not suffer the rabble to follow us. He also obliged all those whom we met upon our pro- gress to sit down till we had passed ; which is a mark of respect due only to their sovereigns. We found by far the greatest part of the country cul- tivated, and planted with various sorts of productions; and most of these plajitations were fenced round. ■^'.-.n,:: spots, where plantations had o n: formerly, now produced nothing, Iviv.;^ fallow ; and there were places tLa b«>d never been touched, but lay in a state of nature; and yet even these were useful in affording them timber, as they were generally covered with trecii. We met with several large uninhabited houses, which, wo were told, oelonged to the King. There were many public and well- beaten roads, and abi.ndance of foot- paths leading to every part of the island. The roads being good and tlie country level, travelling was very easy. It is remarkable that when wu were on the most elevated parts, at least 100 feet above the level of the loa, we often met with the same coral rock which is found at the shore, pro- AT POULAHO'S HOUSE. 137 jecting above the surface, and perfor- ated and cut into all those inequalities which are usually seen in rocks that lie within the wash of the tide. And yet these very spots, with hardly any soil upon them, were covered with luxuriant vegetation. We were con- ducted to several little pools and to some springs of water ; but in general they were either stinking or brackish, though recommended to us by the natives as excellent. The former were mostly inland, the latter near the shore of the bay and below high-water mark; so that tolerable water could be taken up from them only when the tide was out. When we returned from our walk, which was not till the dusk of the evening, our supper was ready. It consisted of a baked liog, some fish, and yams, all excellently well cooked after the method of these islands. A« there was nothing to amuse us after supper, we followed the custom of the countr}-, and lay down to sleep, our beds being mats spread upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The T^ing, who had made himself very happy with some wine and brandy which we had brought, slept in the same house, as well as several others of the natives. Long befoi« daybreak he and they all rose, and sat conversing by moon- light. The conversation, as might well be guessed, tuiaed wholly upon us, the King entertaining his company with an account of what he had seen or remarked. As soon as it was day, they dispersed, some ouo way and some another ; but it was not long before they all returned, and with them several more of their country- men. They now began to prepare a bowl of " kava;" and leaving them so employed, I went to pay a visit to Toobou, Captain Furneaux's friend, who had a house hard by, which for size and neatness was exceeded by few in the place. As I had left the others, so I found here a company pre- paring a morning draught. Thif chief made a present to me of a living hog, a baked one, a quantity ofyanuL and a large piece of cloth. YHien I returned to th* King, I found hir^ 188 If;' ' ■ ' ' i and his circle of attendants drinking the second bowl of "ktiva." That being emptied, he told Omai that he was going presently to perform a mouruiug ceremony, called "tooge," on account of a son who had been dead some time, and he desired us to accompany him. Wo were glad of the opportunity, expecting to see somewhat new or curious. The first thing tho chief did was to step out of the house, attended by two old women, and put on a new suit of clothes, or rather a new piece of cloth, and over it an old ragged mat that might have served his great- grandfather on some such occasion. His servants, or those who attended him, were all' dressed in the ;• ^' manner, excepting that none of , mats could vie in anticjuity with Uu of their master. Thus equipped, we marched off, preceded by about eight or ten persons, all in the above habits of ceremony, each of them besides having a small green bough about his neck. Poulaho held his bough in his hand till we drew near the place of rendezvous, when he also put it about his neck. "We now entered a small 9Uclosure, in which was a neat house, and we found one man sitting before it. As the comx>auy entered, they pulled off the green branches from round their necks and threw them xw&J. The King having first seated limself, the others sat down before um in the usual manner. The circle ncreased, by others dropping in, to ;he number of 100 or upwards, mostly jld men, all dressed as above described. The company being completely as- sembled, a large root of " kava," brought by one of the King's servants, was produced, and a bowl which con- tained four or five gallons. Several persons now began to chew the rout, and this bowl was made brim-full of liquor. While it was preparing, ethers were employed in making drinking-cups of plantain leaves. The first cup that was filled was presented to the King, and he ordered it to be given to another person. The second WM alao brought to him, which he irwuk, and the third was offered to COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. 13. II. Ch. VIII. Afterward, as each cup me. AttcrwarO, as eacn cup wai filled, the man who filled it asked who was to have it. Another then named the person, and to him it was carried. As the bowl giew low, the man who distributed the liquor seemed rather at a loss to whom cups of it should be next sent, and frequently cotihfultcd those who sat near him. This mode of distribution continued while any liquor remained, and though not half the com[iany had a share, yet no one seemed dissatisfied. About half-a-dozen cups served for all, and each, as it was emptied, was thrown down upon the ground, where the servants picked it up and carried it to be filled again. Duilng the whole time the chief and his circle sat, as was usually the case, with a great deal of gravity, hardly speaking a word to each other. We had long waited in expectation each moment of seeing the mourning ceremony begin, when, soon after the "kava was drank out, to our great surprise aud disappointment they all rose up and clispei'sed, and Poulaho told ua he was now ready to attend us to the ships. If this was a mourning cere- mony, it was a strange one. Perhaps it was the racond, third, or fourth mourning; or, which was not very uncommon, Omai might have misun- derstood what Poulaho said to him. For, excepting the change of dresa and the putting the green bough round their necks, nothing seemed to have passed at this meeting but what we saw them practise too frequently every day. As soon as this monming ceremony was over, we left Mooa and set out to return to the ships. While we rowed down the lagoon or inlet, w^e met witb two canoes coming in from fishing. Poulaho ordered them to be called alongside our boat, and took from them every fish and shell they had got. He afterwards stopped two other canoes and searched them, but they had nothing. Why this was done I cannot say, for we had plenty of pro> visions in the boat Some of this fish he gave to me, and his servants sold the rest on board the ship. A« w* wt /ULY 1777.] NATIVES FIRED proceeded da^n the inlet we over- took a large sailing cauoe. Every person on board lier that was upon Lis legs when we canio up sat down till we had passed, even the man yeho steered, though he could not mannge 'ho helm except in a stand- ing posture. When we got on board the ship I found that everything had been quiet during my absence, not a tlieft having been committed, of which Feenou an«l Futtafaihe, the King's brother, who had undertaken the management of his countrymen, boosted not a little. This shows what power the chiefs have when they have the will to execute it, which we were seMom po expect, since whatever was stoj.ew JTrom us generally, if not always, was conveyed to them. The good con- duct of the natives Wi^ of short dura- jtion, for the i;iext day six or eight of them assaulted some of our peo[)lo yyho were sawing pLanks. They were J5red upon by the sentry, and one was supposed to be wounded and three others taken. These I kept confined till night, and did not dismiss them jrithout punishment. After this they behaved with a little more circumspec- tion, and gave us much less trouble, ^his change of behaviour was cer- tainly occasioned by the man bein wounded, for before they had been told of the effect of fireaims, but now they bad felt it. The repeated insolence of the natives had induced me to order the muskets of the sen- tries to be loaded with small shot, and to authorise them to fire on par- ticular occasions. I took it for granted, therefore, that this man hail only been wounded with small shot. But Mr King and l^lr Andei-son, in an ex- cursion into the country, met with him, and found indubitable marks of his having been wounded, but not dangerously, with a musket ball. I never could find out how this musket nappened to bo charged with ball, (^id there were people enough ready tf) swear that ita contents were only jjOaaU shot.^ ^ Hr ^Aderson's accoont 9i Uie ex- AT BY A SENTI^T.L. 139 I had prolonged my stay ht thif only island on account of tlie approaching eclipse ; but on the 2a of July, oa looking at the niioroinoter belonging to the Board of Longitude, I found Pome of the rack-woiic broken, and the instrun:ent useless till repaired, which there was not time to do before it was intendeil to be used. Pfepiif- ing now for our departure, I got ou board this day all the cuttle, poultry, and other animals, except such us were destined to remain. 1 had de- signed to leave a turkey cock and hen ; but having now only two of each undisposed of, one of tlxo hens, through the ignorance of one of my people, was strangled, and died upon the spot. 1 had brought tluce tur- key hens to these islands. One waa killed as above meutioued ; and the other by a uteloss dog belonging to one oftheoUicers. These two accidents put it out of my power to leave a pair here, and at the same time to carry the breed to Otuheite, for which island they were originally intended. I wag sorry afterwards that I did not give the preference to Tongataboo, as the present would have been of more val^e there than at Otaheite ; for the natives of the former island, I am persuaded, would have taken more pains to mul- tiply the breed. The next day we took up our anchor, and mov,ed the ships behind Pangimodoo, th^at we might be ready to take the advantage of the first favourable wind to get through the narrows. The King, whp was one of our company this day at dinner, I observed took particular notice of the plates. This occasioned me to make him an offer of one, either of pewter or of earthenware. He chose the first, and then be^an to tell us the several uses to which he in- tended to apply it. Two of them are so extraordinaxy that I cannot omit mentioning them. He said that, whenever he should have occasion to visit any of the other islands, ha would leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo^ as a sort of rc^esenta* cursion just mentioned, containing little or nothing new, is oiaittMl. 't ;i 140 tire in his absence, that the people might pay it the same obeisance they do to himself in person. He was asked what liad been usually employed for this purpose before he got this f>late ; and we had the satisfaction of earning from him that this singular honour had hitherto been ecuferred on a wooden bowl in which he washed his hands. The other extraordinary use to which he meant to apply it, in the room of his wooden bowl, was to discover a thief. He said that when anything was stolen, and the thief could not be found out, the people were all assembled together before him, when he washed his hands in water in this, vessel ; after which it was cleaned, and then the whole mul- titude advanced, one after another, and touched it in the same manner that they touch his foot when they pay him obeisance. If the guilty per- son touched it, he died immediately upon the spot, not by violence, but by the hand of Providence ; and if any one refused to touch it, his refusal was a clear proof that he was the man. In the morning of the 5th, the day of the eclipse, the weather was dark and cloudy, with showers of rain, so that we had little hopes of an ob:^jr- vation. About 9 o clock the sun broke out at intervals for about half- an-hour; after which it was totally obscured till within a minute or two of the beginning of the eclipse. We were all at our telescopes, viz., Mr Bayly, Mr King, Captain Gierke, Mr Bli^h, and myself. I lost the obser- vation by not having a dark glass at hand suitable to the clouds that were continually passing over the sun ; and Mr Bligh had not got the sun into the field of his telescope ; so that the commencement of the eclipse was only observed by the other three gentle- men, and by them, with an uncer- tainty of several seconds, as follows : Ho. Min. Sec By Mr Bayly, at 11 46 234 Mr King, at 11 46 28 Capt. Gierke, at 11 47 6 Apparent time. Mr Bayly and Mr King observed COOK'S VOYAGES. (Tot. III. B. II. Ch. IX. with the achromatic telescopes be- longing to the Board of Longitude, ol equal magnifying powers ; and Cap- tain Lhnke observed with one of the reflectors. The sun appeared at in- tervals till about the middle of the eclipse ; after which it was seen no more during the day, so that the end could not be observed. The disap- piointment was of little consequence, since the longitude was more than sufficiently determined, independently of this eclipse, by lunar observations. As soon as we knew the eclipse to be over, we packed up the instruments, took down the observatories, and sent everj'thing on board that had not been already removed. As none of the natives had taken the least notice or care of the three sheep allotted to JMareewagee, I ordered them to be carried back to the ships. I was apprehensive that if I had left them here they run great risk of being de- stroyed by dogs. iThat animal did not exist upon this island when I first visited it m 1773 ; but I now found they had got a good many, partly from the breed then left by myself, and partly from some imported since that time from an island not very re* mote, called Feejee. The dogs, how- ever, at present had not found their way into any of the Friendly Islands except Tongataboo ; and none but the chiefs there had as yet got possession of any. ^ CHAPTER IX. Wb were now ready to sail ; bat the wind being easterly, we had not sufficient daylight to turn through the narrows, either with the morning or with the evening flood ; the one falling out too early, and the other too late. So that, without a leading wind, we were under a necessity of waiting two or three days. I took ^ The remainder of the Chapter, taken up by Mr Anderson's notes on the physical formation and features and natural products of Tongataboo or Amsterdam Island^ ia oinUt«l SOLEMNITY IN HONOUR OF KING'S SON. Ml Jttly 1777.J iho opporttmity of this delay to be present at a public solemnity to which the King bad invited us when we went last to visit him, and which, he had informed us, was to be performed on the 8th. AVith a view to this, be and all the people of note quitted our neighbourhood on the 7th, and re- paired to Mooa, where the solemnity was to be exhibited. A party of us followed them the next morning. We understood from what Poulaho had snid to us that his son and heir was now to be initiated into certain privi- leges ; amongst which was that of eating with his father, an honour he hail not as yet been admittcii to. "We arrived at Mooa about 8 o'clock, and found the King with a large circle of attendants sitting before him, with- in an enclosure so small and dirty as to excite my wonder that any such could be found in that neighbourhood. They were intent upon their usual morning occupation, in preparing a bowl of "kava." As this was no liquor for us, we walked out to visit fcome of our friends, and to observe what preparations might be making for the ceremony which was soon to begin. About 10 o'clock, the people began to assemble in a large area which is before the * ' malaee, " or great house, to which we had been con- ducted the first time we visited Alooa. At the end of a road that opens into this area stood some men with spears and clubs, who kept constantly recit- ing or chanting short sentences in a mournful tone, which conveyed some idea of distress, and as if they called for something. This was continued about an hour ; and in the meantime many people came down the road, eacli of them bringing a yam tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down before the persons who con- tinued repeating the sentences. While this was going on, the King and prince arrived, and seated themselves upon the area ; and we were desired to sit down by them, but to pull oflf onr hats, and to untie our hair. The bearers of the yams being all come in, each pole was taken up ^tween two men, who carried it c u- their shoulders. After forming themselret into companies of ten or twelve per- sons each, they marched across the place with a quick pace ; each com- pany headed by a man bearing a club or spear, and guarded on the right by several others armed with different weapons. A man carrying a living ]>igeon on a i)erch closed tlie rear of the procession, in which about 250 persons walked. Omai was desired by me to ask the chief to what jdaco the yams were to be thus earned with so much solem- nity. But, as ho seemed unwilling to give us the information we wanted, two or three of us followed the pro- cession, contrary to his inclination. We found that they sto])ped before a *' moral " or " fiatooka." of one house, standing upon a mount, which was hardly a quaxter of a mile from the place where they first assembled. Here we obsei*ved them depositing the yams, and making them up into bundles ; but for what purpose we could not learn. And as our presence seemed to give them uneasiness, we left them and returned to Poulaho, who told us we might amuse ourselves by walking about, as nothing would be done for some time. The fear of losing any part of tlie ceremony pre- vented our being long absent. When we returned to the iving, he desired me to order the boat's crew not to stir from the boat ; for as everything would very soon be "taboo," if any of our people, or of their own, should be found walking about, they would bo knocked down with clubs, nay, "ma- teed," that is, killed. He also ac- quainted us that we could not be present at the ceremony ; but that we should be conducted to a place where we might see everything that passed. Objections were made to our dress. We were told that to qualify us to be present it was necessar}'that we should be naked as low as the breast, with our hats off and our hair untied. Omai offered to conform to these rec^uisites, and began to strip ; other objections were then start.. ', so that the excla- sion was given to him eqnally with oarselveM. •t ^ ^N I' ti.*'i 1;:;; i i ! I 142 I did not mQch like tliis restriction, and tLerefore stole out to see wJiat miglit now be going forward. 1 found very few people stirring, except those dressed to attend the o(^rpmony ; some of whom had in their hands small poles about four feet long, and to the under-part of these were fast- ened two or three other sticks, not bigger than one's finger, and about six inches in length. These met) were going toward the "morai " just mentioned. 1 took the SHiiie road, and was several times stopped by them, all crying out "taboo." llov/- cver, I went forward without much roganling them, till I came in sight of the " morai,." .and of the people who were sitting before it. I was now urged ver}' strongly to go back ; and not knowing what might be the con- scfiuence of a refusal, I comi)licd, I Lad observed that the people who earned the poles passed this " morai," or what I may as well call temple ; and guessing from this circumstance that something was transacting beyond it which might be worth looking at, I had thoughts of advancing, by making a round, for this pur]>ose ; but I was so closely watched by three men that 1 could not jmt my design in execution. In order to shake these fellows off, I returned to the "ma- laee " where I had left the King, and from thence made an elopement a second time ; but I instantly mot the same three men, so that it seemeil as if tliey had been ordered to watch my motions. 1 paid no regard to what they said or did, till I came within sight of the King's jirincipal " fia- tooka " or ** morai," which I liave already described,^ before which a gieat number of men were sitting, being the same persons whom 1 had just before seen pass by the other "morai," from which this was b\it a little distant. Observing tliai 1 could watch the proceedings of tliis companj' from the King's plantation, I repaired thither, very much to the ■atisfacti " of those who attended me. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Yot.III.B.II.Ch.IX. As soon as 1 got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had come with me from the ships with what I had seen ; and we took a proper station to watch tlie result. The number ol people at the "fiatooka" continued * In the Chapter immediately pre- ceding. to increase for some time ; and at length we could see them quit their sitting posture and march off in pro- cession. They walked in ]iairs, one after another, every pair carrying be- tween them one of the small polos above mentioned, on their shoulders. We were told that the small pieces of sticks fastened to the poles were yams ; so that probably they were meant to represent this root emblema- tically. The hindmost man of each couple, for the most part, placed one of his hands to the middle of the pole, as if without this additional sap])Oi-t it were not strong enough to carry the weight that hung to ii, and under which they all seemed to bend as they walked. This pro- cession consisted of 108 pairs, and all or most of them men of rank. They came close by the fence behind which we stood ; so that we had a full view of them. Having waited here till they had all passed, wo then repaired to Poulaho's house, and saw him going out. We could not be allowed to follow him ; but were forthwith conducted to the place al- lotted to us, which was behind a fence adjoining to the area of the *' fiatooka" where the yams had been deposited in the forenoon. As we were not the only people who were excluded from being publicly present at this ceremony, but allowed to peep from behind the curtain, we had & good deal of company ; and 1 ob- served that all the other enclosures round the place were fdlcd with people. And yet all imaginable care seemed to be taken that they should see as little as possible ; for the fences had not only been repaired that morn- ing, but in many places raised higher than common, so that the tallest man could not look over them. To remedy this defect in our station, we toot the liberty to cut holes in the fonot with our knives ; and by this meani PROCESSIONS AND CEREMONIES. 143 JlTLT 1777.1 wp could see pretty distinctly every- thing tliat was transacting; on the other side. On onr arrival at our station, we fonnd two or tliree hundred i>cople sitting on the grass near the end of the road that opened into the area of the "morai;" and the number continually increased by others join- ing them. At length arrived a few men carrjang some small poles, and branches or leaves of the cocoa-nut tree ; upon their first appearance an old man seated himself in the road, and with his face toward them, pronounced a long oration in a serious tone. He then retired back, and the others advancing to the middle of the area, began to erect a small shed, employ- ing for that pur}»ose the materials above mentioned. When tliey had finished their work, they all squatted down for a moment before it, then rose up and retired to the rest of the company. Soon after came Poulaho's son, preceded by four or five men, and they seated themselves a little aside from the shed, and rather behind it. After them appeared twelve or four- teen women of t-^e first rank, walking slowly in pairs, each pair canying "between them a narrow piece of white cloth extended, about two or three yards in length. These marched up to the pririce, squatted down before him, and, having wrapped some of the pieces of the cloth they had brought, round his body, they rose up and re- tired in the same order to some dis- tance on his left, and there seated themselves. Poulaho made his appearance, four men, who walked abreast, and sat down left hanil, about twenty paces from him. The young prince then quitting his first position, went and sat down under the shed with his attend- ants ; and a considerable number more placed thoniselves en the grass before this ro3'al canopy. The prince himself sat facing the people, with Lis back to the "moral. This being done, three companies of ten or a dozen men in each stdirted up from amongst the large crowd^ a himself soon preceded by two and two his son's on little after each other, and running hastily to the opposite side of the area, sat down for a few seconds ; after which they returned in the same manner to thoir former stntiona. To them succeeded two men, each of whom held a small green branch in his hand, who got uj) analace to dinner. Several of our gentlemen had returned this morning from the sliips ; and we were all iiivited to the CONTINUATION OF TTTE CEREM0NIV3. luLY 1777.] feast, which was ]trc3ently served up, and consisted of two pigs and yams. I roused the drowsy monarch to par- take of what he had provided for our entertainment. In the meantime two mullets and some shell-fish were brought to him, as I 8ii[»posed, for his separate portion. But ho joined it to our fare, sat down with us, and made a hearty meal. When dinner was over, we were told that the ceremony would soon begin, and were strictly enjoined not to walk out. I had resolved, how- ever, to peep no longer from behind the curtain, but to mix with the actors themselves if possible. With this view I stole out from the planta- tion, and walked toward the "morai," tlie scene of the solemnity. I was several times desired to go back by people whom I met; but I paid no regard to them, and they suffered me to pass on. When I arrived at the ••morai," I found a number of men seated on the side of the area, on each side of the road that leads np to it. A few were sitting on the opposite side of the area, and two men in the middle of it, with their faces turned to the "morai." When I got into the midst of the first company, 1 was desired to sit down, which I accordingly did. Where I sat there were lying a num- ber of small bundles or j)arcel3, com- posed of cocoa-nut leaves, and tied to sticks made into the form of hand- barrows. All the information I could get about them was that they were *' taboo." Our number kci)t contin- ually increasing; every one coming from the same quarter. From time to time, one or another of the com- pany turned himself to those who were coming to join us, and made a short speech ; in which I could remark that the word *'arakee, " that is, King, was generally mantioned. One man said something that produced bursts of hearty laughter from all the crowd ; othera of the speakers met with public ajtplause. I was several times de- sired to leave the place ; and at last, when they found that I would not stir, after some seeming consultation they .4r» applied to me to uncover my shoulders as theirs were. With this request I complied, and then they seemed t* be no longer uneasy at my i»resence. 1 sat a full hour without anytliiiig more going forward, beside what I have mentioned. At length the prince, the women, and the King all caino in, as they had done the day before. The prince being placed under the shed, after his father's arrival, two men, each carrying a piece of mat, came repeating some- thing seriously, and put them about him. The assembled people now began their operations; and first three companies ran backwards and forwards across the area, as described in the account of the proceedings of the former day. Soon after, the two men who sat in the middle of the area made a short speech or prayer ; and then the whole body amongst whom I had my place started up, and ran and seated themselves before the shed under which the prince and three or four men were sitting. I was now partly under the management of one of the company, who seemed very assiduous to serve me. By his means I was placed in such a situation, that if I had been allowed to make use of my eyes, nothing that passed could have escaped me. But it was neces- sary to sit with down-cast looks, and demure as maids. Soon after, the procession came in, as on the day before ; each two persons bearing on their shoulders a pole, round the middle of which a cocoa-nut leaf was plaited. These were deposited with ceremonies similar to those observed on the preceding day. This first pro- cession was followed by a second ; the men composing which brought baskets such as are usually employed by this peojile to carry provisions in, and made of palm leaves. These were followed by a third procession, in which were brought different kinds of small fish, each fixed at the end of a forked stick. The baskets were carried up to an old man, whom I took to be the chief priest, and who sat on the prince's right hand, with- out the shed. He lield each in his If I 340 hand, while he nuido a short speech or prayer; tlicn luid it down find ill If COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vox. III. B. II. Cii.IX. Ills face to the "inorai:" l.nt tlii« last moveniont hvl bronj,'ht so many poojilo betwoon him ami nic, that I could not {»i!rc('ivo whut was doinj?. I wa.s afliMwaid assured tliat at tlda very time (ho })rinco wa.s admitted to the high honour of eatiu;^ with his father, wliicli till tunv had never been penult ted to hiju ; a ])iece of roasted yam being presented to each of them for tliis purpose. This was the more Erobablo, as we had been told before- and that this was to happen during the Solemnity ; and as all the people turned their backs to them at tliis time, which they always do when their 7nonarch eats. After some little time we all faced about, and formed a semicircle before the prince, leaving a large open space between ns. Presently there appeared some men coming to- ward us, two and two, bearing large sticks or poll's uy»on their shoulders, making a noise that might be called singing, and waving their hands as they advanced. "When they had got close up to us, thoy made a show of walking very fiist, without proceeding a single step. Innnediately after« three or four men started up from the crowd, with large sticks in their hands, who ran toward those new- comers. The latter instantly threw down the poles from their shouldcra anil scampered off ; and the othere attacked the i.oles, and, having beat them most unmercifully, returned to their places. As the jiolo-bearers ran off, they gave the challenge that is usual here in wi-estling ; and not long after, a number of stout fellows came from the same quarter, repeating the challenge as they ailvanced. These were opposed by a ]>arty who came from the opposite side almost at the same instant. The two parties par- aded about the area for a few minutes, and then retired each to their own sitle. After this there were wrestling and boxing matches for about half-an- hour. Then two men seated them- selves before the prince, and made speeches addressed, as I thoaght, entirely to him. With thia the solemnity ended, and the whole af cahed ioT another, repeating the same words as before ; and tlius lie went through the whole numbei' of baskets. The mh were i)i('S('nted, one by one, in th» forked aiicks, as they came in, to two men who sat on the left, and who till now held green branches in their hands. The lirst fish they laid down on their right, and the second on their left. "When the third was presented, a stout-looking man who sat behind the other two reached his arm over between them and made r snatch at it; as also did the other two at the very siimo time. Tims they seemed to contend for every fish that was presented ; but as there wee two hands against one, besides the advantage of situation, the man be- hind got nothing but pieces ; lor he never quitted his hold till the fish was torn out of his hand, and what little remained in it he sliook out behind him. The others laid what they got cn the right and left alternately. At length, cither by accident or design, the man behind got possession of a whole fish without either of the other two so much as touching it. At this the word " Mareeai," which signifies •' "Very ^ood ! " or " Well done ! " was uttered in a low voice throughout the whole crowd. It seemed that he had performed now all that was expected from him, for he made no attempt upon the few fish that came after. These fish, as also the baskets, were all delivered, by the persons who brought them in, sitting ; and in the Aarae order and manner the small poles, which the first procession car- ried, had been laid upon the ground. The last procession being closed, there was some speaking or praying by differenc persons. Then on some signal being given, we all started up, ran several paces to the left, and sat down with our backs to the prince and the few who remained with him. I was desired not to look behind me. However, neither this injunction, nor the remembrance of Lot's wife, dis- ooaraged me from facing about. 1 now aaw that the prince had turned I sembly broke up. I h luiY 1777.] REMARKS ON NATURE OP CRREMONIF.a 14: I now went and oxaniined the several baskets wliicli iiad been |)re.sentod ; a eurioaity that I was not allowed buforo to indulge, becauso everything? was then "taboo." IJut tlio solenniity being now ovor, they luicatno sinjjtly what I found them to bo, onipty baskets. So that whatever tliey were suniJOSfd ti» contain Wiis eniblfmati- cally re[>r(',sented. And so iiulced was ftvcrv otiior tliin;' wliloli hnd boon brought in procession oxtept the lish. We endeavoured in vain lu iiiid out the meaning, not only ul" the ceremony ingeneial, whicli is called " Nntche," but of its (lillerent parts. We seldom Sot any other answer to our inquiries, ut "Taboo ;" a word wliii h, I have before observed, is aii|iiio(.l to many other things. Uut as the jirince was evidently the principal luirion con- cerned m it ; and as wo had been told by the King, ten days l)efore the celebration of the ** Kalche," that the people would bring in yams for him and his son to eat togetlier ; and as he even described some part of the cere- mony, we concluded from what he had then said, and from what we now flaw, that an oath of allegiance, if I may so express myself, or solemn promise, was on this occasion made to the prince, as the immediate suc- cessor to the regal dignity, to stand by him and to furnish him with tlie ieveral articles that were here emble- matically represented. That seems the more probable, as all the principal people of the island whom we had ever seen assisted in the processions. But be this as it may, the whole was conducted with a great deal of mysteri- OQS solemnity ; and that there was a mixture of religion in the institution was evident not only from the placje where it was performed, but from th^ manner of performing it. Our dress and deportment had never been called in question upon any fonner occasion whatever. Now it was expected that we should be uncovered as low as the waist ; that our hair should be loose and flowing over our shoulders ; that we should like themselves sit cross- l^^ed, and at times in the most humble posture, with down -cast eyes and hands locked together r all which retpiisites were most ilevoutly observed by the whole assembly. And, lastly, every one was excluded from tho solemnity but tho ])rinci|);il j>eople and th(is(> who assisted iu the celeVtra- tion. All tl.i'Sf ciiruiMstances wero to me a suHii'ient testimony that u[Mm this occiisioii they considered them- selves as noting under the immediate inspection of a Su[)iemo Being. Tho f>resent "Natche" may bo considered, rom the above account of it, as merely figurative. For the small (juantlty of yams which wo saw the first day could not bo intended as a general contribution ; and indeed wo were given to Jinderstand that they were a [(ortion «^ousecrated to the "Otooa," or divinity. IJut we were informed that in ab(jut three months there would be performed, on tho same account, a far more important and grander solemnity ; on which occasion not only tue tribute of Tongataboo, but that of liapaee, Vavaoo, and of all the other islands, would be brought to the chief, and confirmed more aw- fully by sacrificing ten human victims from amongst the inferior sort of people. A horrid solemnity indeed ! which is a most significant instance of the influence of gloomy and ignor- ant suj^erstition over the minds of one of the most benevolent and humane nations upon earth. On inquiring into the reasons of so barbarous a practice, they only said that it was a necessary part of the " Natche ; " »nd that if they omitted it the deity would certainly destroy their king. Before the assembly broke up, the day was far sjjent ; and as we were at some distance from the ships, and had an intricate navigation to go through, we were in haste to set out from Mooa. When I took leave of Poulaho, he presa- ed mo much to stay till the next day, to be present at a funeral ceremony. The wife of Mareewagee, who was mother-in-law to the King, had lately died ; and her corpse had, on account of the "Natche, been carried on board a canoe that lay in the lagoon. Poiilaho told me that as soon as he had paid the last offices to her he '1 i'..'r I , 148 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. II. Ch. IX. m- mi i would attend me to Eooa ; but, if I did not wait, that he would follow me thither. I uuderstood at the same time, that if it had not been for the death of this woman most of the chiefs would have accompanied us to that island, where, it seems, all of them have possessions. I would gladly have oraited to see this cere- mony also, had not the tide been now favourable for the ships to get through the narrows. The wind, besides, which, for several days past liad been very boisterous, was now moderate and settled ; and to have lost this opportunity might have detained us a fortnight longer. But, what was decisive against my waiting, we under- stood that the funeral ceremonies would last five days ; wliich was too long a time, as the ships lay in such a situation that I could not get to sea at pleasure. I however, assured the King that if we did not sail I should certainly visit him again the next day. And so we all took leave of him, and set out for the ships, where we arriv d about 8 o'clock in the evening. I had forgot to mention that Omai was present at this second day's cere- mony as well as myself ; but we were not together, nor did I know that he was there till it was almost over. He afterwards told me that as soon as the King saw that I had stolen out from the plantation, he sent several people one after another to desire me to come back. Probably these messengers were not admitted to the place where 1 was ; for I saw uothlug of them. At last intelligence was brought to the chief that 1 had actually stripped in conformity to their custom ; and then he told Omai that he might be present also, if he would comply with all the necessary forms. Omai had no objection, as nothing was required of him but to conform to the custom of his own country. Accordingly he was furnished with a proper dress, and appeared at the ceremony as one of the natives. It is likely that one reason of our being excluded at first was an apprehension that we would not submit to the requisites to qualify OS to assist While I wasattendiugthe "Natche** at Mooa, I ordered the horses, bull and cow, and goats, to be brought thither, thinking that they would be safer there, under the eyes of the chiefs, than at a place that would be in a manner deserted the moment after ou: departure. Besides the above-mentioned animals, we left with our friends here a young boar and three young sows of the £nglish breed. They were exceedingly desir- ous of them, judging, no doubt, that they would greatly improve their own breed, which is rather small. Feenou also got from us two rabbits, a buck, and a doe; and before we sailed we were told that young ones had been already produci^d. If the cattle suc- ceed, of which I make no doubt, it will be a vast acquisition to ^hese islands ; and as Tongataboo is a fine level country, the horses cannot but be useful. [Weighing anchor on the morning of the 10th, the ships got with some difficulty through the channel, and did not weather the east end of Ton- gataboo before 10 o'clock next night. On the morning of the 12th they anchored ofif Middleburg Island, called by the natives Eooa, or English Road — the name Cook had given to his station in 1773.] We had no sooner anchored than Taoofa the chiefs and several other natives visited us on board, and seemed to rejoice much at our arrival. In a little time I went ashore with him in search of fresh water, the procuring of which was the chief object that brought me to Eooa. 1 had been told at Tongataboo that there was here a stream running from the hills into thj sea, but this was not the case now. I was first conducted to a brackish spring, between low and high water mark amongst rocks in the cove where we landed, and where no one would ever have thought of looking for what we wanted. However, I be- ^ In the account of Captain Cook's former voyage, he calls the only chief he then met with at this placs Tioony. —iVo<« in Original Edition. ring that Ibeeu was Ihills case to a ligh Icove one ing bc- JULY 1777.] lieve the water of this spring might be good, were it possible to take it up before the tide mixes with it. Find- ing that we did not like this, our friends took ns a little wiv into the island, where in a deep chasm we found very good water, which, at the expense of some time and trouble, might be conveyed down to the shore by means of spouts or troughs that could be made with plantain leaves and the stem of the tree. But rather tliDii undertake that tedious task I resolved to rest costented with the supply the ships had got at Tongata- boo. Before I returned on board I set on foot a trade for hogs and yams. Of the former we could procure but few, but of the latter plenty. I put ashore at this island the ram and two ewes of the Cape of Good Hope breed of sheep, entrusting them to the care of Taoofa, who seemed proud of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewagee, to whom I had given them, as before mentioned, slighted the present. Eooa, not having as yet got any dogs upon it, seems to be a prr perer place than Tongataboo for the rearing of sheep. As we lay it anchor, this island bore a very dif- ferent aspect from any we had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful landscape. It is higher than any we had passed since leaving New Zea- land (as Kao may justly be reckoned an immense rock), and from its top, which is almost flat, declines very gently toward the sea. As the other isles of this cluster are level, the eye can discover nothing but the trees that cover them ; but here the land, rising gently upward, presents us with an extensive prospect, where groves of trees are only mterspersed at irregular distances in beautiful disorder, and the rest covered with ^ass. Near the shore, again, it IS quite shaded with various trees, amongst which are the habitations of the natives ; and to the right of our station was one of the most ex- tensive groves of cocoa-palms we had ever seen. . . . Soon after we weighed, and with a li;;'ht breeze at SE. stood out to sea ; ARRIVAL AT EOOA. 149 and then Taoofa and a few other natives that were in the ship left ua. On heaving up the anchor, we found that the cable had suffered consider- ably by the rocks, so that the bottom in this road is not to be depended upon. Besides this, we experienced that a prodigious swell rolls in there from the SW. We had not been long under sail before we observed a sail- ing canoe coming from Tongataboo^ and entering the creek before which we had anchored. Some hours after, a small canoe, conducted by four men, came off to us, for as we had but little wind, we were still at no great distance from the land. These men told us that the sailing canoe which we had seen arrive from Tongataboo had brought orders to- the people of Eooa to furnish us with a certain number of hogs, and that in two days the King and other chiefs would be with ns. They therefore desired we would return to our former sta- tion. There was no reason to doubt the truth of what these men told us. Two of them had actually come from Tongataboo in the sailing canoe, and they had no view in coming off to ue but to give this intelligence. How- ever, as we were now clear of the land, it was not a sufficient inducement to bring me back, especially as we had already on board a stock of fresh pro- visions sufficient in all probability te last during our passage to Otaheite. Besides Taoofa's present, we had got; a good quantity of yams at Eooa in exchange chiefly for small nails. Our supply of hogs was also considerably increased thrre, though doubtless we should have got many more if tho chiefs of Tongataboo had been with us, whose property they mostly were. At the approach of night these men, finding that we would not return, left us, as rlso some others who had como off in two canoes with a few cocoiv nuts and shaddocks to exchange tbeoi for what they could get; thj eager* ness of these people to get into tneir possession more of our commoditier inducing them to follow the ships mil to sea, and to continue their inter* course with us to tb« last moment. • n {;.' . I ''< : 160 CHAPTER X.» Thus we took leave of the Friendly Islands and tlieir inhabitants, after a stay of between two and three moutl is, during which time wo lived together in the most cordial friendship. Some accidental dilFcrences, it is true, now and then happened, owing to their great propensity to thieving, but too often encouraged by the negligence of our own people. But these differ- ences were never attemled with any fatal consequences, to prevent wliich all my measures were directed ; and I believe few on board our ships left our friends here without some regret. The time employed amongst them was not thrown away. We expended very little of our sea provisions, sub- sisting in general upon the produce of the islands while we stayed, and carrying away with us a quantity of refreshments sufficient to last till our arrival at another station, where we could depend upon a fresh supply. I was not sorry, besides, to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of these good people, by leaving the useful animals before mentioned among them ; and at the same time those designed for Otaheite received fresh strength in the pastures of Towgata- boo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we received by touching here were veiy great ; and I had the additional satisfaction to reflect that they were received without retarding one moment the prosecution of the great object of our voyage ; the season for proceeding to the north being, as * This, and the subsequent Chapter of Book II., devoted to an account of the Friendly Isles and their inhabit- ants, although obstructing uot a little the course of Cook's narrative, have been retained with some unimportant or desirable omissions, condensa- tions, and as giving, mainly from his own pen and his own observation, a lively picture of one of the great Australasian communities which he firat unveiled to the knowledge of the «orlid. COOK'S VOYAGES. |Tov. III. B. II. Ch. X. has been already observed, lost be- fore I took the resolution of bearing away for these islands. But besides the immediate advantages which both the natives of the Friendly Islands and ourselves rece?'"'ed by this visit, future navi;,Mtors from Europe, if any such should ever tread our steps, will profit by the knowledge I acquired of the geography of this part of the Pacific Ocean ; and the more philoso- phical reader, who loves to view human nature in new situations, and to s[)eculate on singular but faithful representations of the persons, the customs, the arts, the religion, the government, and the language of uncultivated man in remote and fresh discovered quarters of the globe, will perhaps find matter of amusement, if not of instruction, in the information which I have been enabled to convey to him concerning the inhabitants of this archipelago. I shall suspend my narrative of the progress of the voy- age, while 1 faithfully relate what I had opportunities of collecting on these several topics. [Best articles for traffic at Friendly Islands : iron, tools, and nails of all kinds, red cloth, linen, looking- glasses, and beads — useful and orna- mental commodities not always sway- ing the market with equal power, though the useful have generally the preference. In exchange may be pro- cured hogs, fowl, fish, yams, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, sugar-cane, and everything that can be got at the Society Islands, though not all of equally good quality. Good water is scarce, but indifferent may be had on all the islands.] Under the denomination of Friendly Islands we must include not only the group at Hapaee which I visited, but also all those islands that have been discovered nearly under the same meridian to the north, as well as some others that have never been seen hitherto by any European navi- gators, but are under the dominion of Tongataboo, which, though not the largest, is the capital and seat of government According to the in- formation that we received there, this t' /FLY 1777.^ REMARKS ON FRIENDLY ISLANDS. archipelago is very extensive. Above 150 islands were reckoned up to us by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to ascertain their number ; and Mr Anderson, with his usual dili- gence, even procured all their names. Fifteen of tliem are saiil to be high or hilly, such as Toofoa and Eooa ; and thirty-five of them large. Of theso only three were seen this voyage : Hapaee (which is considered by the natives as one island), Tongataboo, and Eooa ; of the size of the unex- plored thirty-two ncithing more can be mentioned but that they must be all lartjer than Annamooka, which those n-om whom we had our inform- ation ranked amongst the smaller isles. Some, or indeed several, of this latter denomination are mere spots without inhabitants.^ I have not the least doubt that Prince William's Islands, discovered and so named by Tasman, are in- cluded in the foregoing list. For while we lay at Hapaee, one of the natives told me that three or four days' sail from thence to the NW. there was a cluster of small islands consisting of upwards of forty. This situation corresponds very well with that assignedj in the accounts we have of Tasman 's voyage, to his Prince William's Islands.' We have also very good authority to believe that Keppel's and Bos- cawen's Islands, two of Captain Wallis's discoveries in 1765, are com- prehended in our list ; and that they are not only well known to these people, but are under the same sove- The following information reign ^ Follows in the original a list of ; ninety-five islands of the group, men- i tioned by the inhabitants of the j islands which Cook visited ; but we i mercifully spare the reader the inflic- > tepresenteil as much 151 seemed to lae d(;cisive m to thit. Upon my inquiring one day of Poa- laho, the King, in what manner th« inhabitants oi Tongataboo had ac- quired the knowledge of iron, and front wliatquarter theyhad procureda small iroji tool which I had seen amongst Ibom when I first visited their island during my former voyage, he informed me that they had received this iron from an island which he called Nee- ootabootaboo. Carrying my inquiriei further, I then desired to know wliether he had ever been infor'ned fiom whom the people of Neeoota- bnotaboo had got it. I found him perfectlv acquainted with its history. He said tliat one of these islander^ sold a club for five nails to a ship which had touched there, and that th^se five nails afterwards were sent to Tongataboo. He added that this was the fii-st iron known amongst them ; so that wliat Tasman left of that metal must have been worn out and forgotten long ago. I was very particular in my inquiries about the situation, size, and form of the island ; expressing my desire to know when this ship hnd touched there, how long she stayed, and whether any more • re in company. The leading facts MTieared to be fresh in his memor. H.' said that there was but one ship ; that she did not com* to an anchor, uut left the island after her boat had been on bore. And from many circumstances which he mentioned, it could not be uiavy years since this had happened. Ac- cording to his information there are two islands near each otlier, which he himself had been at. The one he described as high and peaked ike Kao, and he called it Kootnh , the other, where the people ot .mi ship landed, called Xeeootabootuboo, he lower. Ho tion of the soft but unwieldy poly- syllables. ^ Tasman saw eighteen or twenty of these small islands, every one of which was surrounded with sands, 'Shoals, and rocks. They are also CP.iled, in some charts, Heemskirk's Banks, — Note in Original Edition, added that the natives of both are the Siime sort of peofde with those of Ton- gataboo, built their canoes in the same maimer, that their islands had hogs and fowls, and in general the same vegetable productions. The ship so pointedly referred to in thk conversatiou could be no othor that) 1 ^ ,1^ »l m I ' *• 152 *ix9 Dolphin ; th« only single ship from Europe, as far as wo have ever learned, that had touched of late fe&rs at any island in this part of the 'acific Ocean prior to my former visit to the Friendly Islands.* But the most considerable islands in this neighbourhood that we now heard of (and we heard a great deal about them) are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and Feejee. Each of these was represented to us as larger than Tonga...ooo. No European that we know of has as yet seen any one of them. Tasman, indeed, lays down in his cliart an island nearly in the situation where I suppose Vavaoo to be ; that is, about the Latitude of 19°. But then tliat island is there Inarked as a very small one ; whereas Vavaoo, according to the united testimony of all our fiiends at Tongataboo, exceeds the size of their own island, and has high moun- tains. I should certainly have visited it, and have accompanied Feenou from Hapaee, if he had not then discour- aged me by representing it to be very inconsiderable and without any har- bour. But Poulaho, the King, after- wards assured me that it was a large island, and that it not only produced everything in common with Tonga- taboo, but had the peculiar advantage of possessing several sti earns of fresh water, with as good a harbour as that which we found at his capital island. He oifered to vttend me if I would visit it ; adding that if I did not find everything agreeing with his repre- sentation, I might kill him. I had not the least doubt of the truth of his * See Captain Wallis's voyage, in Hawkesworth's Collection. Captain Wallis there calls both these islands high ones. But the superior height of one of them may be inferred from his saying that it appears like a sugar- loaf. This strongly marks its re- semblance to Kao. From comparing Poulaho's intelligence to Captain Cook, with Captain Wallis's account, it seems to be past all doubt that Boscawen's Island is our Kootahee, And Eeppel's Island our Neeootaboo- tiboo. — Note in Original Edition. COOK'S VO YAGEfi. [Vot. III. B. II. Ch. X intelligence; and was satisfied that Feenou, from some interested view, attempted to deceive me. Hamoa, which is also nnder the dominion of Tongataboo, lies two days' sail NW. from Vavaoo. It was described to me as the largest of all their islands, as affording harbours and good water, and as producing in abundance every article of refresh- ment found at the places we visited. Poulaho himself frequently resides there. It should seem that the peoj)le of this island are in high esti- mation at Tongataboo, for we were told that some of the songs and dances with which we were entertained had been copied from theirs, and we saw some houses said to be built after their fashion. Feejee, as we were told, lies three days' sail from Tongataboo in the direction of NW. by W. It was described to us as a high but very fruitful island, al)ounding with hogs, dogs, fowls, and all kinds of fruit and roots that are found in any of the others, and as much larger than Tongataboo, to the dominion of which, as was represented to us, it is not subject, as the other islands of this archipelago are. On the contrary, Feejoe and Tongataboo frequently make war upon each other ; and it appeared from several circumstances that the inhabitants of the latter are much afraid of this enemy. They used to express their sense of their own inferiority to the Feejee men by bending thei' body forward, and coveriii!:,' the face with their hands. And it is no wonder that they should be under this dread, for those of Feejee are formidable on account of the dexterity with which they use their bows and slings, but much more so on account of the savage practice to which they are addicted, like those of New Zealand, of eating their ene- mies whom they kill in 1 .ttle. We were satisfied that this was not a mis- representation ; for we me* with seve- ral Feejee people at Tongataboo, and on inouiring of them uiey did not deny tne charge. Now that I am again led to speak July 7 777. NATIVES OP FEEJEE. 153 fti csnnihals, let me ask those who mairitain thcat the w nt of food first brings men to feed on human flesh, What is it that induceth the Feejee people to keep it up in the midst of plenty? This practice is detested very much by those of Tongataboo, wlio cultivate the friendship of their savage neighbours of Feejee apparently out of fear, tliough they sometimes venture to skirmish with them on their own ground, and carry oft' red feathers as their booty, which are in ereat plenty there, and, as has been frequently mentioned, are in great estimation amongst our Friendly, Is- landers. When the two islands are at peace, the intercourse between *hem seems to be pretty frequent, though they have doubtless been but lately known to each other, or we may suppose that Tongataboo and its adjoining islands would have been supplied before this with a breed of dogs which abound at Feejee, and had not been introduced at Tonga- taboo so late as 1773, when I first visited it. The natives of Feejee whom we met with here were of a colour that was a full shade darker than that of the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands in general. One of them had his left ear slit, and the lobe was so distended that it almost reached his shoulder, which singu- larity I had met with at other islands of the South Sea during my second Toyage. It appeared to me that the Feejee men whom we now saw were much respected here, not only per- haps from the power and cruel man- ner of their nation's going to war, but also from their ingenuity. For they seem to excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in that respect, if we might judge from several specimens of their skill in workmanship which we saw, such as clubs and spears, which were carved in a very masterly manner, cloth beautifully chequered, variegated mats, earthen pots, and some other articles, all which had a east of superiority in the execution. I have mentioned that Feejee lies three days' sail from Tongataboo, because these people have no other method of measnring the distance from island to island but by express- ing the time required to make the voyage in one of their canoes. In order to ascertain this with some pre- cision, or at least to fn m some judg- ment how far these canoes can sail in a moderate gale in any given time, I went on board one of them when under sail, and by several trials with the log found that she went seven knots or miles in an hour, close-hauled in a gentle gale. From this I judge that they will sail on a medium, with such breezes as generally blow in their sea, about seven or eight miles in an hour. But the length of each day is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hours , for when they spoke of one day's sail, they mean no more than from the morning to the evening of the same day — that is, ten or twelve hours at most ; and two days' sail with them signifies from the morning of the first day to the evening of the second ; and so for any other number of days. In these navigations the sun is their guide by day, and the stars by night. When these are ob- scured they have recourse to the points from whence the winds and the waves come upon the vessel. If during the obscuration both the wind and the waves should shift (which, within the limits of the trade-wind, seldom hap- pens at any other time), they are then bewildered, frequently miss their in- tended port, and are never heard of more. The history of Omai's coun- trymen, who were driven to Wateeoo, leads us to infer that those not heaixl of are not always lost. Of all the harbours and anchoring places I have met with amongst these islands, that of Tongataboo is by far the best, not only on account of its great security, but of its capacity, and of the goodness of its bottom. Although Tongataboo has the best harbour, Annaniooka furnishes the best water, and yet it cannot be called good. However, by digging holes near the side of the pond we can get what may be called tolerable. This island, too, is the best situated for drawirg refreshments from aU Uir \','. \ ! I! 1- r - '' 154 ©there, u being nearly in the centre of the whole grDUp. It may be expected that after spend- ing between two and three months amongst the [natives] I should be enabled to give a tolerably satisfactory account of their customs, opinions, and institutions, both civil and reli- gious, especially as we had a person on board who might be supjiosed qualified to act tlie part of an inter- preter, by uiulerstanding their lan- guage and others. But poor Oniai was very deficient ; for unless the object or thing we wanted to inquire about was actually before us, we found it difficult to gain a tolerable know- ledge of it from inforniation only, without falling into a hundred mis- takes, and to such mistakes Omai was more liable than we were ; for having no curiosity, he never gave himself the trouble to make remarks for himself; and when he was dis- posed to explain matters to us, his ideas ajjpeared to be so limited, and perhaps so difierent from ours, that his accounts were often so confused as to perplex instead of instructing us. Add to this, that it was veiy rare that we found amongst the na- tives a person who united the ability and the inclination to give us the infonnation we wanted ; and we found that most of them hated to he troubled with what they probably thought idle questions. Our situation at Tongata- boo, where we remained the longest, was likewise unfavourable. It was in a part of the country where there were few inhabitants except fishers. It was always holiday v/ith our visit- ors, as well as with those we visited ; 80 that we had but few opportunities of observing what was really the do- mestic way of living of the natives. Under these disadvantages it is not surprising that we should not be able to bring away with us satisfactoiy accounts of many things ; but some of us endeavoured to remedy those disadvantages by diligent obi:ervation ; and I an- indebted to Mr Amlcrson for a considerable share of what fol- lows in this und in the following Chapter. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. I II. B. 11. Ck. X. The natives of the Friendly Islands seldom exceed the common stature (though we have measured some who were above six feet), but are very strong and well made, especially aa to their limbs. They are generally broad about the shoulders, and though the muscular disposition of the men, which seems a consequence of much action, rather conveys the appearance of strength than of beauty, there are several to be seen who are really handsome. Their features are very various, iusonmch that it is scarcely possible to fix on any general likeness by which to characterise them, unless it be a fulness at the point of the nose, whicli is very common. But, on the other hand, we met with hun- dreds of truly European faces, and many geniiine Roman noses amongst them. Their eyes and teeth arc good, but the last neither so remarkably white nor so well set as is often found amongst Indian nations, though, to balance that, few of them have any uncommon thickness about the lips, a defect as frequent as the other per- fection. The women are not so much distinguished from the men by their features as by their general form, which is for the most part destitute of that strong fleshy firmness that appears in the latter. Though the features of some are so delicate as not only to be a true index of their sex, but to lay claim to a con- siderable share of beauty and expres- sion, the rule is by no means so general as in many other countries. But at the same time this is frequently the most exceptionable part, for the bodies and limbs of most of the females are well proportioned, and some absolutely perfect models of a beautiful figure. But the most re- markable distinction in the women is the uncommon smallness and deli- cacy of their fingers, which may be put ill com[)etition with the finest in Europe. The geneual colour is a cast deeper than the co]>per brown, but several of the men and women have a true oL/a complexion ; and some of the last aro even a great deal fairer, which is nrob- JULT1777.] OF THE MORE PREVALENT DISEASES. con- cpres- is so ries. ently )r the the and of a t re- len ia deli- ly be est in ably the effect of being less exposed to the sun, as a tendency to corpulence in a few of the principal people seems to be tho consequenoe of a more in- dolent life. It is also amongst the last that a soft clear skin is most fre- quently observed. Amongst the bulk of the jjeoplo the skin is more com- monly of a dull hu(j, with some doc^ree of roughness, especially the parts that are not covered, which perhu])3 may be occasioned by some cutaneous dis- ease. We saw a man and boy at Ha- paee, and a child at Annamooka, per- fectly white. Such liave been found amongst all black nations, but I ap- prehend that their colour is rather a disease than a natural phenomenon. There are, nevertheless, upon the whole, few natural defects or defor- mities to be found amongst them, though we saw two or three with their feet bent inward, and some afflicted with a sort of blindness oc- casioned by a disease of the cornea. Neither are they exempt from some other diseases, the most common of which is the tetter, or ring-worm, that seems to affect almost one-half of them, and leaves whitish serpentine marks everywhere behind it. But this is of less consetiuence than an- other disease which is very frequent, and appears on every part of the body in large broad ulcers with thick white edges, discharging a thin, clear mat- ter, some of which had a very virulent appearance, particularly those on the face, which were shocking to look at. And yet we met with some who seemed to be cureil of it, and others in a fair way of being cured ; but this was not effected without the loss of the nose, or of the best part of it. As we know for a certainty^ (and the fact is acknowledged by tliemsolves) that the people of these islands were subject to this loathsome disease be- fore the English first visited them, notwithstanding the similarity of * Captain Cook, in the account of his Second Voyage, gives a iwtrticular account of meeting with a pei"son afflicted with this disease at Anna* inooka on hia binding there iu 1773. 155 symptoms, it cannot be the effect of the venereal contagion, unless we adopt a supposition, wliich I coiUd wish had sutlicient foundation in truth, that the venereal disorder was not introduced here from Europe by our ships in 1773. It assuredly was now found to exist amongst them, for we had not been long there before some of our people received the infec- tion ; and I had the mortification to learn from thence that all tho care I took when I first visited these islands to prevent this dreadful disease from l)cing communicated to their inhabit- ants had proved ineffectual. What is extraordinary, they do not seem to regard it much ; and as we saw few signs of its destroying effects, prob- ably tho climate and the way of living of these people greatly abate its viru- lence. [Two other diseases are fre- quent amongst them. ] But in other respects they may be considered aa uncommonly healthy, not a single person having been seen during our stay confiiicd to the house by sickness of any kind. On the contrary, their strength and activity are every way answerable to their muscular appeai'- ai? id ; and thej^ exert both in their usual employment and in their diver- sions, in such a manner that there can be no doubt of their being as yet little debilitated by the numerous diseases that are the consequence of indolence and an unnatural method of life. The graceful air and firm step with which these people walk are not tho least obvious proof of their personal accomplishments. They con- sider this as a thing so natural or so necessary to be acquired that nothing used to excite their laughter sooner than to see us frequently stumbling upon the roots of trees or other in- equalities of the ground. Their countenances very remarkably ex])ress the abundant mildness or good-nature which they possess, and are entirely free from that savage keenness which marks nations in a barbarous state. One would indeed be apt to fancy that they had been bred up under the severest restric- tions to acquire an aspect so settled. I \ p 156 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Toy. III. B. 11. Ch. X. and such a command of their pas- sions, as well as steadiness in conduct. But they are at the same time frank, cheerful, and good-humoured, though sometimes in the presence of their chiefs tliey put on a degree of gravity and such a serious air ns becomes stiif and awkward, and has an appearance of reserve. Their peaceable disposi- tion is sufficiently evinced from the friendly reception all strangers have met with who have visited them. Instead of offering to attack them openly or clandestmely, as has been the case with most of the inhabitants of these seas, they have never appeared in the smallest degi-ee hostile ; but on the contrary, like the most civilised peoi)le, have couited an intercourse with their visitors by bartering, which is the only medium that unites all nations in a sort of friendship. They understand barter (which they call "fukkatou") so perfectly that at first we imagined they might have acquired this knowledge of it by com- mercial intercourse with the neigh- bouring islands, but we were afterward assured that they had little or no tratfic except with Feejee, from which they get the red feathers and the few other articles mentioned before. Per- haps BO nation in the world traffic with more honesty and less distrust. We could always safely permit them to examine our goods, and to hand them about one to another ; and they put the same confidence in us. If either party repented of the bargain, the goods were re-exohanged with mutual consent and good-humour. Upon the whole, they seem possessed of many of the most excellent quali- ties that adorn the human mind, such as industry, ingenuity, perseverance, afiability, and perhaps other virtues which our short stay with them might prevent our observing. The only de- fect STillpng their character that we know of is a propensity to thieving, to which we found those of all ages and both sexes addicted, and to an uncommon degree. Their hair is in general straight, thick, and strong, though a few have it buhy or frizzled. The natural colour, I believe, almost without ex- ception, is black ; but the greatest part of the men and some of the women have it stained of a brown oi purple colour, and a few of an orange cast. The first colour is produced by applving a sort of plaster of burned coral mixed with water ; the second by the raspings of a reddish wood, which is made up with water into a poultice and laid over the hair ; and the third is, I believe, the eft'ect of turmeric root. When I first visited these islands I thought it had been a uni- versal custom for both men and women to wear the hair short, but during our present longer stay we saw a great many exceptions. Indeed they are so whimsical in their fashions of wearing it that it is hard to tell which is most in vogue. Some have it cut olf one side of the head, while that on the other side remains long; some have only a portion of it cut sliort or per- haps shaved ; others have it entirely cut off except a single lock, which is left commonly on one side ; or it is suffered to grow to its full length with- out any of these mutilations The women in general wear it short. The men have their beards cut short, and both men and women "*rip the hair from their arm -pits, xne operation by which this is performed has been already described.* The men are stained from about the middle of the belly to about half way down the thighs with a deep blue colour. This is done with a flat bone instrument cut full of fine teeth, which, being dipped in the staining mixture pre- pared from the juice of the "dooe dooe," is struck into the skin with a bit of stick, and by that means indel- ible marks are made. In this manner they trace lines and figures, which in some are very elegant, both from the variety and from the arrangement. The women have only a few small lines or spots thus imprinted on the inside of their hands. Their kings, as a mark of distinction, are exempted from this custom, as also from inflict- * In Chapter Y I. of tbU Book. July 1777.J CLEANLINESS OF THE NATIVES. are Ing on themselves any of those bloody jiarks of mourning which shall ho mentioned in anotlier place. The dress of both men and women is the same, and consists of a piece of cloth or matting (but mostly the former), about two yards wide and two and a half long ; at least, so long as to go once and a half round the waist, to which it is confined by a girdle or cord. It is double before, and hangs down like a petticoat as low as the middle of the leg. The 11'^ per part of the garment above the girdle is plaited into several folds, so that when unfolded there is cl'^th sufficient to draw up and wrap round the shoulders ; which is very seldom done. This, as to form, is the general dress; but large pieces of cloth and fine matting are worn only by the Buj)erior people. The inferior sort are satisfied with small pieces, and very often wear nothing but a cover- ing made of leaves of plants, or the •' maro," which is a narrow piece of cloth or matting like a sash. This they pass between the thighs and wi-ap round the waist; but the use of it is chiefly confined to the men. In their great ** Haivas," or enter- tainments, they have various dresses made for the purpose, but the form is always the same, and the richest dresses are covered more or less with red feathers. On what particular oc- casion their chiefs wear their large red feather-caps 1 could not learn. Both men and women sometimes shade their faces from the sun with little bonnets made of various mate- rials. As the clothing, so are the ornaments worn by those of both sexes the same. The most common of these are necklaces made of the fruit of the Fandanus and various sweet-smellingflowers, which go under the general name of *' kabuUa. " Others are composed of small shells, the wing and leg-bones of birds, sharks' teeth, and other things ; all which hang loose upon the breast. In the same manner they often wear a mother-of-pearl shell neatly polished, or a ring of the same substance carved, mi Uie upper part of the arm ; rings 157 of tortoise-shell on the fingers ; and a number of these joined together ai bracelets on the wrists. The lobee of the ears (though most frequently only one) are perforated with two holes, in which they wear cylindrioal bits of ivory about tliree inches long, introduced at. one hole and brought out of the other, or bits of reed of the same size filled with a yellow pigment. This seems to be a fine lH>wder of turmeric, witli which the women rub themselves all over in tihe same manner as our ladies use thfcir dry rouge upon the cheeks. Notliing appears to give them greater pleasure than personal clean- Guess ; to produce wnich they fre- quently bathe in the ponds, which seem to serve no other purpose. Though the water in most of them stinks intolerably, they prefer them to the sea ; and they are so sensible that salt water hurts their skin, that when necessity obliges them to bathe in the sea they commonly have jome cocoa-nut shells filled with fresh water poured over them to wash it off. They are immoderately fond of cocoa- nut oil for the same reason ; a great quantity of which they not only pour upon their head and shouldei'S, but rub the body all over briskly with a smaller quantity. And none but those who have seen this practice can easily conceive how the appearance of the skin is improved by it. This oil, however, is not to be procured by every one, and the inferior sort of people doubtless appear less smooth for want of it CHAPTER XI. Their domestic life is of that middle; kind, neither so laborious as to be disagreeable, nor so vacant as to suffer them to degenerate into indolence. Nature hrs done so much for their country that the first can hardly oc- cur, and their disj)osition seems to be a pretty good bar to the last By this happv combination of circum- stances their necessary labour seema to yield in its turn to their recre*- w l/)8 COOrS VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. II. Ch. XI. V : tions in sacli • manner, that tlie latter aro never intorrupted by the thoughts of being obliged to recur to the former, till satiety makes them wish for such a transition. The oniploymeat of the women is of the easy kind, and for tlie most part such as may be executed in tlio nouse. The manufacturing their cloth is wholly consigned to their care. Having already describeil the process, I shall only add that they have this cloth of dillerent degrees of liueuess. The coar.ser sort, of which they make very large pieces, does not receive the impression of any pattern. Of the finer sort they have some that is striped and chequered, and of other pat1;erns diffiiiently coloured. But how these colours are laid on I canuut say, as I never saw any of this suit made. The cloth in general Avill resist water for some time, but that which has the strongest glaze will resist longest. The manufacture next in consequence, and also within the department of the women, is that of their mats, ^vhieh excel everything I have seen at any other place both as to their texture and their beauty. In particular, many of them are so superior to those made at Otaheite, that they are not a bad article to carry thither by way of trade. Of these mats they have seven or eight different sorts for the purposes of wearing or sleeping upon, and many are merely ornamental. The last are chiefly made from the tough, mem- braneous part of the stock of the })lantain tree ; those that they wear, rom the Pandanus, cultivated for that purpose, and never sulFered to shoot into a trunk ; and the coarser sort, which they sleej) upon, liom a plant called "evarra." There are many other articles of less note that employ the spare time of their females, as combs, of which tliey make vast numbers, little baskets made of the same substance as the mats, and others of the fibrous cocoa-nut husk, either plain or interwoven with small beads, but all finished with such neatness and taste in the disposition of the Ytiions parts, thftt a stranger cannot help admiring their assiduity and dexterity. The province allotted to the men is, as might bo expected, far more laborious and extensive than that of the women. Agriculturo, architec- ture, boat-building, lishing, and other tilings tliat relate to navigation, are the objects of their care. Cultivated roots and fruits being their principal su]>port, this requiies their constant attention to agriculture, which they ttui-sue very dih'gently, and seem to lave brought almost to as great per- fection as circumstJinces will permit. The large extent of the plantain fields has been taken notice of already ; and the same may be said of the yams, these two together being at least as ten to one with respect to all the other articles. In planting both those, they dig small holes lor their reception, and afterwards root up the surrounding grass, which in this hot country is quickly deprived of its vegetating power, and, soon rotting, becomes a good manure. The instru- ments they use for this purpose, which they call "hooo," are nothing more than pickets or stakes of different lengths, according to the depth they have to dig. These are flattened and sharpened to an edge at one end, and the largest have a short piece fixed transversely tor pressing it into the ground with the foot. With these, though they are not more than from two to four inches broad, they dig and plant ground of many acres in extent. In planting the plantains and yams they observe so muclx exact- ness, that whichever way you look the rows present themselves regular and complete. The cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees are scattered about without any order, and seem to give them no trouble after they have attained a certain height. The same may be said of another large tree, which produces great numbers of a large, roundish, compressed nut, called " eeefee ;" and of a smaller tree that bears a rounded oval nut two inches long, with two or three triangular kernels, tough and insipid, called '^mabba," most fre- CONSTRUCTION OF NATIVE HOUSES. 150 trees der, )uble tain d of /T7LT 1777.] ?aently phnted near their houses. 'he "kappe" is, commonly, regu- larly planted, and in pretty large ■pots; but the "mawhaha"i8 inter- spersed amongst other tilings, as the " jeejee " and yams are ; the last of which I have frcfiuently hocn in the interspaces of the plantain trees at their common distance. Suj,'ar-cane is commonly in small spots, ciowilcd closely together; and the mulberry, of which the cloth is made, tliou;;h without order, has sulliciont room allowed for it, and is kept very clean. The only other plant that they culti- vate for their manufactures is the Pandanus, which is generally phi n ted in a row close together at the .'.ides of the other fields; and they con-sidt-r it as a thing so di.stim^t in this state, that they have a dili'erent Uiinie for it, which shows that they are very sensible of the great changes brought about by cultivation. It is remarkable that the.-^e peo]>le, who in many things show mucii taste and ingenuity, should show little of either in building their houses ; though the defect is rather in the design than in the execution. Those of tlie lower people are poor huts, scarccily suffi- cient to defend them from the weather, and verj'^ small. Those of the better sort are larger and more comfortable ; but not what one might expect. The dimensions of one of a middling size are about thirty feet long, twenty broad, and twelve high. Their hou.se is, properly speaking, a thatched roof or shed, supported by posts and rafters disposed in a very judicious manner. The floor is raised \\ith earth smoothed, and covered witli strong, thick matting, and kept very clean. The most of them are closed on the weather side (and some more than two-thirds round) with strong mats, or with branches of the cocoa- nut tree plaited or woven into each other. These they fix up edgewise, reaching from the eaves to the ground, and thus they answer the purpose of a wall. A thick, strong mat, about two and one-half or three feet broad, bent into the fonn of a semicircle, and set upon its edge with the ends touching the aide of the honse, in Bha]io res^abling the fender of a fire- hearth, encloses a space for the master and mi-stres.s of the fundly to sleep in. The lady, indeed, spcnd-s most of her time during the day within it. The rest of the family sleep upon the lloor wherever they please to lie dowu ; the unmarried men and women apart from t'iich other. Or, if the family be lai-^e, tlure arc small huts adjoin- ing to which the swrrants retire in the night; so that privacy is as much ol (served here as one could expect. They have mats made on purpose for sleeping on ; and the chjthes that they wear in the day servo for their covering in the night. Their whole furniture consists of a buwl or two, iu which they -.iiake "kava;" a few gourds, cocoa-nut shells, some small wooden stools wh'.ch servo them for pillows, and, i)erhaps, a largo stool for tlie chief or muster of the fiunily to sit upon. The only ])robable reason I can atisign for their neglect of orna- mental architecture in the construc- tion of th(!ir houses, is their being fond of living much in the open air. Indeed, they seem to consider their houses, within which they seldom eat, as of little use but to sleep in aad to retire to in bad weather. And the lower sort of people, who spend a great part of their time in close attend- ance upon the chiefs, can have little use for their own houses but in the lust case. They make amends for the defects of their houses by their gi-eat atten- tion to and dexterity in naval archi- tecture, if I may be allowed to give it that name. But I refer to the narrative of my last voyage for an account of their canoes, and their manner of building and navigating them. The only tools which they use to construct these boats are h.itchets, or rather thick adzes, of a smooth black stone that abounds at Toofoa; augers made of sharks' teeth fixed on small handles ; and rasjts of a rough skin of a fish, fastened on fiat pieces of wood, thinner on one side, wliich also have handles. The labour and time employed in finishing their !•<. '•\' III [ ii 160 COOK'S VOYAGES. canoes, which arc tho most perfect of their mechatiicnl productions, will account for their buing very careful of them. For they are built and pre- served under sheds; or they cover the decked part of them witli cocoa- loares when they are hauled on shore, to prevent their being hurt by the sun. The same tools are all they liave for other works, if wo except different shells, which they use as knives. But there are few of their productions that r^^uire these, unless It be some of their weapons ; the other articles being chiefly their fishing materials, and cordsige. The cordage is made from the fibres of the cocoa- nut husk, which, though not more than nine or' ten inches long, they plait, about the size of a quill or less, to any length that they please, and roll it up in balls, from which the larger ropes are made by twisting several of these together. The lines that they fish with are as strong and even as the best cord we make, resem- bling it almost in every respect. The other fishing implements are large and small hooks. The last are com- posed entirely of pearl-shell, but the first are only covered with it on the back, and the ])oints of both com- monly of tortoise-shell ; those of the small being plain and the others barbed. With the large ones they catch bonitos and albicores, by put- ting them to a bamboo rod twelve or fourteen feet long, with a line of the same length, which rests in a notch of a piece of wood fixed in the stern of the canoe for that puri>ose, and is dragged on the suiface of the sea as she rows along, without any other bait than a tuft of flaxy stuff near the point. They have also great numbers of pretty small seines, some of which are of a very delicate texture. These they use to catch fish with in the holes on the reefs when the tide ebbs. The other manual employments con- sist chiefly in making musical reeds, flutes, warlike weapons, and stools or rather pillows to sleep on. The reeds have eight, nine, or ten pieces placed parallel to each other, but not m any [VoY.lII.B.II.Cu.Xl regular profession, havkig the longeal sometimes m the middle, and several of the same length; so that 1 have seen none with mure than mx notes ; and they seem incapable of ]>laying any music on them tliat is distin- guishable by our ears. The flutes are a joint of bamboo, close at both ends, with a hole near each, and four others; two of which, and one of the first only, are used in playing. They aj)i)ly the thumb of the left hand to c use the left nostril, and blow into the hole at one end with the other. The middle finger of the left hand ia applied to the first hole ou the left, and the forefinger of the right to tho lowest hole on that side. In this manner, though the notes aro only three, they produce a pleasing yet simple music, which they vary much more than one would think possible with so imperfect an instrument. Their being accustomed to a music which consists of so few notes is per- haps the reason why they do not seem to relish any of ours, which is so complex. But they can taste what is more deficient than their own ; for we observed that they used to bo well pleased with hearing the chant of our two young New Zealanders, which consisted rather in mere strength than in melody of expression. The weapons which they make are clubs of different sorts (in the ornamenting of which they spend much time), spears, and darts. They have also bows and arrows; but these seemed to be designed only for amusement, such as shooting at birds, and not for military purposes. The stools are about two feet long, but only four or five inches high, and near four broad, bending downward in the middle, with four strong legs and circular feet ; the whole made of one piece of bkck or brown wood, neatly polished and sometimes inlaid with bits of ivonr. They also inlay the handles of flyflaps with ivory, after being neatly carved ; and they shape bonea into small figures of men, birds, and other things, which must be very difficult, as their carving instrument is only a shark's tooth. M are /m.Tl777.j FOOD AND Tamg, plantains, and cocoa-niits, compose the greatest part of their regetable diet Of their animal food, the chief articles are hofre, fowls, fish, and all sorts of slndl-hsh ; but the lower people eat rats. Tie two first regetaole articles, with Sroad-fri.ii, are what may be called tiie basis of their food at different titiiCa of tlie J ear, with fish and shell-fish ; Tor ogs, fowls, and turtle, seoni only to be occasional dainties reserve* I for their chiefs. The intervals let ween the seasons of these vegetable produc tions must be somotimos considerable, as they prepare a sort of artificial bread from plantains, which they put nnder ground before ripe, and suffer them to remain till they ferment, when they are taken out and made up into small balls ; but so sour and indifferent, that they often said our bread was preferable, though some- what musty. Their food is, generally, dressed by baking, in the same man • ner as at Otaheite ; and they have the art of making from different kinds of fruit several dishes which most of >i3 esteemed very good. I never saw thorn make use of any kind of sauce ; nor drink anything at their meals but water or the juice of the cocoa- nut ; for the ** kava " is only their morning draught. I cannot say that they are cleanly either in their cook- ery or manner of eating. The gener- ality of them wiU lay their victuals npon the first leaf they meet with, however dirty it may be ; but when food is served up to the chiefs it is commonly laid upon green plantain leaves. When the King made a meal, he was for the most part attended upon by three or four persons. One cut large pieces of the joint or of the fish ; another divided it into mouth- fols ; and others stood by with cocoa- nuts and whatever else he might want. I never saw a large comjjany •At down to what wo should call a sociable meal, by eating from the aame dish. The food, he what it vnll, is always divided into poi-tions, aach to serve a certain number ; these portions are again subdivided ; so that one seldom sees above two or COOKERY. Ifll three ])er8on8 eating togetlier. The women are not excluded from eating with the men, but there are certain ranks or orders amongst them that can neither eat nor drink to<,'t'ther. This distinction begins with the King, but where it ends I cannot say. They seem to have no set time for meals ; thuugh it should bo observed that during our stay amongst tlieui their domestic economy was ntuch dis- turbed by their constant attention to u\ A4 far as we could remark, those of the superior rank only drink *' kava " in the forenoon, and the others eat perhaps a bit of yam ; but we commonly saw all of them eat sometliing in the afternoon. It is probable that the practice of making a meal in the night is pretty common ; and their rest being thus interiiipted tlioy frequently sleep in the day. They go to bed as soon as it is dark, and rise with the dawn in tlie morning. They ai'e very fond of associating together, so that it is common to find several houses emi)ty, and the owners of them convened in some other one, or rather upon a convenient spot in the neighbourhood where they recreate themselves by conversing and other amusements. Their private diversions are chiefly singing, dancing, and music performed by the women. When two or three women sing in conceit, and snap their fingers, it is called "oobai ;" but when there is a greater number they divide into several ])artie3, each of which sings on a dilferent key, which makes a very agi eeable music, and is called ^'heeva" or "haiva.'* In the same manner, they vary the music of their flutes, by playing on those of a different size ; but their dancing is much the same as when they perform publicly. The dancing of the men (if it is to be called danc- ing), although it does not consist much in moving th?^ feet as we do, has a thousand difl'erent motions with the hands to which we are entire strangers ; and they are perfonned with an ease and grace which ar«i not to be described nor even conceived but by those who have seen them. But I need add nothing to what has vj V T mi I ill'' ■ (.'I 162 COOK'S VOYAGES. iVoT. III. B. 11. Ch. XI. been already said on this subject in the account of the incidents that hap- pened during our stay at the islands. Whether their marriages be made ijisting by any kind of solemn con- tract, v>e could not determine with Ereviisiou ; but it is certain, that the ulk of the people satisfiod themselves with one wife. Tlie chiefs, however, have common lysevenil woniOi: • though some of us were of opinion tliat tlioro was only one that was looked upon us the mistre.^s of the family. As female chastity at hrst si<^ht seemed to be held in no great estimation, we expected to have found frequent breaches of their conjugal fidelity ; but we did thom groat injustice. I do not know that a single instance happened dur- ing our whole stay. Neither are those of the better sort that are unmarried moro free of their favours. It is true, there was no want of those of a diifer- ent character ; and perhaps such are more frequently met with here in pro- portion to the number of people, than in many other countries. But it appeared to me that tlie most, if not all of them, were of the lowest class ; and such of them as permitted fami- liarities to our people were prostitutes by profession. Nothing can be a greater proof of the humanity of these people than the concern they show for the dead. To use a common expression, thoiv mourning is not in words but deeds. For, besides the " tooge" mentioned before, and burnt circles and scars, they beat the teeth with stones, strike a shark's tooth into the head until the blood flows in streams, and thrust spears into the inner part of \ the thigh, into th.eir sides below the arm-pits, and through the cheeks into the mouth. All these operations con- vey an idea of such rigorous discipline as must require either an uncommon degree of affection, or the grossest superstition, to exact. I will not say that the last has no share in it ; for Bometimes it is so universal that many oonld not have any knowledge of the person for whom the concern is ex- pressed. Thus we saw the people of Tongataboo mourning the deatli of a chief at Vavaoo ; and other simila* instances occvuTed during our stay. It should be observed, however, that the more painful operations are only practised on account of the deatl oif those most nearly connected with the mourners. When a person dies, ho is buried, after being wrapped up in mats and cloth, mucli after our man- ner. Tlie chiefs seem to have the "fiatookas" appropriated to them as their burial-places ; but the common people are interred in no particular spot. What part of the moiiming ceremony follows immediately after is uncertain ; but that there is some- thing besides the general one, which is continued for a considerable length of time, we could infer from being informed that the funeral of INIaree- wagee's wife, as mentioned before, was to be attended with ceremonies that were to la&t five days, in which all the principal people were to com- memorate her. Their long and general moiirning proves that they consider death an a very great evil. And this is con- firmed by a very odd custom which they practise to avert it. Wiien I first visited these islands, during my last voyage, I observed that many of the inhabitants had one or both of their little fingers cut off; and we could not then receive any satisfactory account of the reason of this mutila- tion. But we now learned that tins operation is performed when they labour under some grievous disease and think themselves in danger of dying. They suppose that the Deity will accept of the little finger as a sort of sacrifice efficacious enough to procure the recovery of their health, 'i'hey cut it olf with one of their stone hatchets. There was scarcely one in ten of them whom we did not find thus mutilated in one or both hands ; which has a disagreeable effect, especi- ally as they sometimes cut so close that they encroach upon the bone of the hand which joins to the ampu- tated finger.^ ^ It may be proper to mention here, on the authority of Captain King, that MOURNING CEREMONIES FOR THE DEAD; 163 OS a ampo- here, g. that /VLT 1777.] From the rigid severity with which jome of these mourning and religions ceremonies are executed, one would expect to find that they meant there- by to secure to themselves felicity heyoiiil the grave ; but their jirinci- pal object rehitcs to things merely tcm[toial, for they soem to have little conception of future punishment for faults committed in this life. They believe, however, that they are justly punished upon earth ; and conse- quently use every method to render tlioir Divinities propitious. The Su- preme Author of most things they call "Kallafootonga," who, they say, is a female residing in the sky and directing 'Jie thunder, wind, rain, and in general all the changes of weather. They believe that when she is angry with them the productions of the earth are blasted ; that many thing:s we destroyed by lightning ; and that they themselves are afflicted with sick- ness and death, as well as their hogs lind other animals. When this anger abates, they suppose that everything is restored to its natural order; and it should seem that they have a great reliance on the efficacy of their en- deavours to appease their ollcnded Divinity. They also admit a plurality of deities, though all inferior to lafootonga." Amongst them mention "Toofooa-boolootoo," god of the clo\;ds and fog; "Talleteboo," and some others, residing in the heavens. The first in rank and power, who has the govennuent of the sea and its productions, is callo'l "Futtafaihe," or, as it was sometimes pronounced, "Footafooa," who, they say, is a male, and has for his wife "Fykavakajeea ;" and here, as in heaven, there are several inferior potentates, such as " Vahaa-fonooa," "Tareeava," "Mattaba," "Evaroo," and otiiers. The same religious sys- tem, however, does not extend all ove>' the cluster of tiie Friendly Lslos ; " Kal they it is common for the inferior people to cut off a joint of their little finger, on account of the sickness of the chiefs to whom they belong. — NoU m Ori' ffinal Edition. for the supreme god of Hapaee, for instance, is called "Alo Alo;" and other isles have two or three of dilfer- ent names. But their notions ol' the power and other attributes of these beings are so very absurd, that they suppose they have no fui'ther concern with theju after death. They have, however, very proper sentiments about the immateriality and the i mmortality of the soul. They call it life, the living principle, or, what is more agreeable to their notions of it, an *' Otooa ;" that is, a divinity or invisible being. They say that immediately uj^on death the souls of their chiefs separate from their bodies, and go to a place called " lioolootoo," the chief or god of which is ' ' Gooleho. " This "Gooleho" seems to be a per- sonification of death ; for they used to say to us, " You and the men of Foejee " (by this junction meaning to pay a compliment expressive of their confession of our superiority over themselves) "are also subject to the power and dominion of 'Gooleho.'" His country, the general receptacle of the dead, according to their mytho- logy, was never seen by any person ; yet it seems they know that it lies to the westward of Feejee, and that they who are once transported thither live for ever, or, to use their own expres- sion, are not subject to death again, but feast upon all the favourite pro- ducts of their own country, with which this everlasting abode is supposed to abound. As to the souls of the lower sort of peo])le, they und -rgo a sort of transmigration ; or, as they say, are eaten up by a bird called "loata," which walks upon their graves for that pur])os(', I think I may venture to assert that they do not worship anything that is the work of their own hands, or any visible part of the creation. They do not make ofi'orings of hogs, dogs, and fruit, as at Otaheite, unless it be emblematically, for their " mor- als " were perfectly free from e\-ery- thing of the kind. But that they oiler real human sacrifices is with mo beyond a doubt Their " morais " or ' ' fiatookas " (for they are called hy : lil m i?i 164 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY.IlI.B.II.Cn.Xl. ti:.!l' I : both names, but mostly by the latter) are, as at Otaheite and many other parts of the world, burying-grouuds and places of worship, though some of them seemed to be only ujipropri- ated to the first purpose, but these were small, and in every other respect inferior to the others. Of the nature of their government we know no more than the general outlme. A subordination is estab- lished among them that resembles the feudal system of our progenitors in Europe. But of its subdivisions, of the constituent parts, and in what manner they are connected so as to form a body politic, I confess myself totally ignoraut. Some of them told us that the power of the King is un- limited, and that the life and property of the subject is at his disposal. But the few circumstances that fell under our observation rather contradicted than confirmed the idea of a despotic government. Mareewagee, old Too- bou, and Feenou, acted each like petty sovereigns, and frequently thwarted the measures of the King, of wlxich he often complained. Neither was his court more splendid than those of the two first, who are the most powerful chiefs in the islands ; and next to them Feenou, Mareewa- gee's son, seemed to stand highest in authority. But however independent on the despotic power of the King the great men may be, we saw instances enough to prove that the lower order of people have no property nor safety for their persons but at the will of the chiefs to whom they respectively be- long. Tongataboo is divided into many districts, of above thirty of which we learned the names. Each of these has its particular chief, who decides differences and distributes justice within his own district. But we could not form any satisfactory judgment about the extent of their power in ^neral, or their mode of proportion- ing punishments to crimes. Most of ihese chiefs have possessions in other islands, whence they draw supplies. At least we know this is so with re- spMsfc ko th« King, who at certain established times receives the product of his distant do\nains at Tongataboo, which is not only the principal place of his residence, but seemingly of all the people of consequence amongst these isles. Its inhabitants in com- mon conversation call it the Land of Chiefs, while the subordinate isles are distingiiished by the appellation of Lands of Servants. These chiefs are by the people styled not only Lords oi the Earth, but of the Sun and Sky ; and the King's family assume the name of Futtafaihe, from the god so called, who is probably their tutelary patron and perhaps thel; common ancestor. The Sovereign's peculiar earthly title is, however, simply *'Tooee Tonga." There is a decorum observed in the presence of their principal men, and particularly of their King, that is truly admirable. Whenever he sits down, whetlier it be in a house or without, all the attendants seat them- selves at the same time in a semicircle before him, leaving always a conveni- ent space between him and them, into which no one attempts to come unless he has some particular business. Neither is any one allowed to pass or sit behind him, nor even near him, without his order or pennission ; so that our having been indulged with this privilege was a significant proof of the great respect that was paid us. When any one wants to speak with the King, he advances and sits down before Mm, delivers what he has to say in a few words ; and, haviag re- ceived his answer, retires again to the cu'cle. But if the King speaks to any one, that person answers from his seat, unless he is to receive some order, in which case he gets up from his place and sits down before the chief with his legs across, which is a posture to which they are so much accustomed that any other mode of sitting is dis- agreeable to them.^ To speak to the King standing would be accounted here as a striking mark of nidenesa, ^ This is peculiar to the men, Hik women always sitting with both legp thrown a little on one aid*. OBEISANCE PAID TO THE KING. 165 i0iT 1777.] M it would be with us for ono to nit down atul put on his hat when he ad- dresses himself to hissupcrior, and that superior on his feet and uncovered. It does not indeed appear that any of the most civilised nations have ever exceeded this people in tlie great order observed on all occasions, in ready compliance with the commands of their chiefs, and in the harmony that subsists throughout all ranks, and unites them as if they were all one man, informed with and directed by the same principle. Such a behavi- our is remarkably obvious whenever it is requisite that their chief should harangue any body of them collected together, which is frequently done. The most profound silence and atten- tion ate observed during the harangue, even to a much greater degree than is practised amongst us on the most interesting and serious deliberations of our most respectable assemblie-j. And whatever might have been the subject of the speech delivered, we never saw an instance when any indi- vidual present showed signs of his being displeased, or indicated the least inclination to dispute the de- clared will of a person who had a right to command. Nay, such is the force of these verbal laws, as I may call them, that I have seen one of their chiefs express his being aston- ished at a person's having acted con- trary to such orders, though it ap- peared that the poor man could not possibly have been informed in time to have observed them. Though some of the more potent chiefs may vie with the King in point of actual possessions, they fall very short in rank and in cei'tain marks of respect which the collective body have agreed to pay the monarch. It is a particular privilege annexed to his sovereignty not to be punctured nor circumcised as all his subjects are. Whenever he walks out, every one whom he meets must sit down till he ha« passed. No one is allowed to be over his head ; on the contrary, all must come under his feet, for there cannot be a greater outward mark of lubmiuion than that which is paid to the Sovereign and other great peopl? of these islands by their inferiors. The method is this : the person who is to pay obeisance squats down before the chief, and bows the head to the sole of his foot, which when he sits is so placed that it can be easily come at ; and having tapped or touched it with the under and upper side of the fingers of both hands, he rises up and retires. It should seem that the Kin|( cannot refuse any one who chooses to pay him this homage, which is called *' moe moea," for the common people would frequently take it into their heads to do it when he was walking ; and he was always obliged to stop and hold up one of his feet behind him till they had performed the ceremony. This to a heavy unwieldy man like Poulaho nmst be attended with some trouble and pain ; and I have some* times seen him make a run, though very unable, to get out of the way or to reach a place where he might con- veniently sit down. The hands, after this application of theia to ths chief's feet, are in some cases rendered use- less for a time, for until they be washed they must not touch ai ^ kind of food. This interdiction, in a country where water is so scarce, would seem to be attended with some inconvenience; but they are never at a loss for a suc- cedaneum, and a piece of any juicy plant, which they can easily procure immediately, being rubbed upon them, this serves for the purpose of purifica- tion as well as washing them with water. When the hands are in thui state they call it "taboo rema." "Taboo," in general, signifies for- bidden; and "rema" is their word for hand. When the " taboo " is incurred by paying obeisance to a great personage, it is thus easily washed off. But in some other cases it must necessarily continue for a certain time. We have frequently seen women who hav? been "taboo rema" fed by others. At the expiration of the time, the in- terdicted person washes herself in ono of their batlis, which are dirty holes, for the most part, of brackish water. She then waits upon the Kin^^ and, I I'.'': ill 166 aftur making her obeisance in the usual way, lays hold of his foot and applies it to her breast, shoulders, and other parts of her body. He then embraces her on each shoulder, after which she retires purilied from her uncleanness. I do not know that it is always necessary to come to the King for this purpose, though Omai assured me it was. If this be so, it may be one reason why he is for the most part travelling from island to island. I saw this ceremony peiibnued by him two or three times, and once by Feenou to one of his own women ; but as Omai was not then with me I could not ask the occasion. " Ta- boo," as I have before observed, is a word of an extensive signification. Human sacrifices are called " tangata taboo ; " and when anything is for- bidden to be eaten or made use of, they say that it is "taboo." They tell us that if the King should happen to go into a house belonging to a sub- ject, that house would be "taboo," and could never more be inhabited Ly the owner, so that wherever he travels there are particular houses for his re- ception. Old Toobou at this time presided over the "taboo," that is, if Omai comprehended the matter rightly, he and his deputies inspected all the produce of the island, taking care that every man should cultivate and plant his quota, and ordering what should be eaten and what not. By this wise regulation they effectu- ally guard against a famine, a sutfi- cient c^uantity of ground is employed in raismg provisions, and every article thus raised is secured from unneces- sary waste. By another prudent regulation in their gOYomment, they have an officer over the police, or something like it. This department when we were amongst them was administered by Feenou ; whose business, we were told, it was to punish all offenders, whether a^inst the State or against indi- viduals. He was also generalissimo, and commanded the warriors when called out upon service ; but by all accounts this is very seldom. The King fipequently took som.e pains to COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vov. III. B.IT. Ch. XI. inform us of Feenou's office ; and, among other things, told us that if he himself should become a bad man, Feenou would kill him. What I understood by this expression of being a bad man was, that if he did not go- vern according to law or custom, Feenou would be ordered by the other great men, or by the poople at large, to put him to death. There should seem to be no doubt that a sovereign thus liable to be controlled and pun- ished for an abuse of power, cannot be called a despotic monarch. When we consider the number of islands that compose this little state, and the distance at which some of them lie from tlie seat of government, attempts to throw off the yoke and to acquire independency, it should seem, might be apprehended. But they tell us that this never happens. One reason why they are not thus disturbed by domestic quarrels may be this, that all the powerful chiefs, as we have already mentioned, reside at Tongata- boc. They also secure tiie independ- ence of tiie other islands by the celerity of their ojMjrations ; for if at any time a troublesome and popular man should start up in any of them, Feenou, or whoever holds his office, is immediately despatched thither to kill him. By this means they crush a rebellion in its very infancy. The ordei-s or classes amongst their chiefs, or those who call themselves such, seemed to be almost as numer- ous as amongst us ; but there are few in comparison that are lords of large districts of territory, the rest holding their lands under those principal barons, as they may be called. I was, indeed, told that when a man of pro- perty dies, ever}'thing he leaves be- hind him falls to the Khig ; but that it is usual to give it to the eldest son of the deceased, with an obligation to make a provision out of it for the rest of the children. It is not the cus- tom here, as at Otaheite, for the son, the moment he is bom, to take from the father the homage and title, but he succeeds to them at his decease ; so that their form of government is not only monarchical but hereditary. SVLY 1777.] AN The order of succession to the crown has not been of late interrupted ; for we know from a ])arlirular circum- stanco tliat tbo rultafaihcs (Poulaho being only an additicn to distinguisli the King from the rest of liis family) have reigned in a direct line for at least 135 years. Upon inquiring whether any account had been ])re- served amongst them of tlie arrival of Tasman's ship-:, we found that this history had been handed down to them from their ancestors with an accuracy which marks that oral tradi- tion may sometimes be depoiidod upon. For they described tlif two sliips as resembling ours ; nifciitioning the Elace where they had anchored ; their aviug stayed but a few days ; and their raovijig from that station to Annamooka. And, by way of in- ACCOUNT OF THE ROYAL FAMILY. of this 167 forming us how long a^o this had happened, they told us the name of the Futtafaihe who was then king, and of those who had succeeded, down to Poulaho, who is the fifth since that period ; the first beijig an old man (it the tin\e of the arrival of tho ships. From what has been said of the present King, it would be natural to suppose that he had the highest rank of any person in the islands. But to our great surprise we foimd it is not so ; for Latoolibooloo, the person who . is pointed out to me as King when 1 first visited Tongataboo, and three women, are in some resfiects superior to Poulaho himself. On our inquir- ing who these extraordinary y)erson- ages were whom they distinguish by the namo and title of "'J'ammaha," we were told that the late King, Pou- laho's father, had a sister of equal rank, and older than himself; th.it she, by a man who came from tlie island of Feejee, l)r>d a son and two daughters ; and tb t these three ])er- sons, as well as iludr mother, rank above Futtafaihe, the King. We en- deavoared in vaiu to truce the reason singular pre-eminence of the '* Tammahas;" for we could learn nothing besides this account of their jiedijrree. The mother, and one of the daughters, called Tooeela-kaipa, live at Vavaoo. Latoolibooloo, tho son, and the other daughter, whoso name is Moungoula - kaipa, reside at Tongataboo. The latter is the wninan who is mentioneil to liave diiietl with mo on the 21st of June.^ Tlii.s gave occasion to our discovering her superiority over tho King, who would not eat in her presence, though site made no scruple to do so before him, and received from him the cus- toijiary obeisance by touching her foot. We never had an opportunity of see- ing him jjay this mark of respect to Latoolibooloo; but we have observed him leave olf eating, - and have his victuals put aside, when the latter came into the same house. Latooli- booloo assumed the privilege of taking anything from the people, even if it I'cloiiged to the King ; and yet, in the ceremony called "Natche," he assisted only in the same manner aa the other principal men. He was looked upon by his countrjnnen as a madman ; and many of his actions seemed to confirm this judgment. At Eooa they showed me a good deal of land said to belong to him ; and I saw there n son of his, a child whom tliey distinguished by the same title as liis father. The son of the greatest prince in Europe could not be more humoured and caressed than this little «'Tammaha"wa3.- 1 Tn Chapter VII. of this Book, ante, p. 11)5. ^ The remainder of the Chapter ii omitted ; it is taken up with linguis- tic speculations, and lists of similar words current at the Friendly Island.i and Otaheite ; and with a technical record of the nautical and astronomi- cal obser\ atious made dui'ing ibe *> journ at Tuuuuta,boa It .11 :!m m Sc i I i I l(i8 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. U, 111. Ch. 1 BOOK IIL TRANSACnomi AT OTAHEITE, AND THE SOCIETT ISLANDS ; AND PROSECUTION OP THE YOTAOE TO THE COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. fi CHAPTER I. Havino taken our final leave of the Friendly Islands, I now resume my narrative of the voyage. In the even- ing of the 17th of July, at 8 o'clock, the body of Eooa bore NE. by N., distant three or four leagues. The wind was now at E., and blew a fresh gile. With it I stood to the S. till alf-an-hour past 6 o'clock the next morning, when a sudden squall from the same direction took our ship aback ; and before the sails could be trimmed on the other tack, the main- sail and top-gallant sails were much torn. The wind kept between the SW. and SE. on the 19ih and 20th ; afterward it veered to the ENE., and N. The night between the 20th and 21st an eclipse of the moon was observed. I continued to stretch to the ESE., with the wind at NE. and N., without meeting with anything worthy of note till 7 o'clock in the «?ening of the 29th, when we had a •udden and very heavy squall of wind from the N. At this time we were under single reefed topsails, courses, and stay-sails. Two of the latter weio blown to pieces ; and it was with difficulty that we saved the other sails. After this squall, we observed several lights moving about on board the Discovery, by which we concluded that something had given way ; and the next morning we saw that her main -topmast had been lost. Both wind and weather continued very un- settled till noon this day, when the latter cleared up, and the former •ettled in the NW. quarter. At this time we were in the I^atitude of 28° 6' S., and our Longitude was 198° 23' E. Here we saw some pintado birds, being the first since we left the land. On the 31st at noon Captain Clurkfl made a signal to speak with me. By the return of the boat which I sent on board his shi]), ho informed me that the head of the mainmast had been discovered to be sprung in such a manner as to rendor the rigging of another topmast very dangerous, and that therefore he must rig something lighter in its place. He also informea me thfit he nad lost his maintop- gallantyard, and that he neither had another nor a spar to make one on board. The Resolution's spritsail and topsail-yard, which I sent him, supplied this want. The next day we got up a jury topmast, on which he set a mizzen topsail, and this en* abled him to keep way with the Re- solution. The wind was fixed in th« western board — that is, from the N. round by the W. to S., and I steered E. and NE., without meeting with anything remarkable, till 11 o'clock in the morning of the 8th of August, when the land was seen bearing NNE. nine or ten leagues distant. At first it appeared in detached hills, like so many separate islands, but as we drew nearer we found that they were all connected, and belonged to one and the same island. I steered directly for it, with a fine gale at SE. by S., and at half-past 6 o'clock in the afternoon it extended from N. by E. to NNE. three-quarters E., distant three or four leagues. The night was spent standing off and on, and at daybreak the next morning I steered for the NW., or leeside of the island ; and as we stood round its S. or SW. part, we saw it everywhere ^larded by a reef of coral rook, extendmg in some places a full mile from the land, and a hieh surf beating upon it. Some thougnt that they saw laud to the southward of this island, but as that was to th« windward it wba left nndetennined. THE ISLAND TOOBOUAI DlaeOVEREl>. 169 Aug. 1777.3 As we drew near we saw peojile ou several parts of the coast, walking or running along shore, and in a little time after we had reached the leeside of the island we saw them launch two canoes, into which above a dozen men got, and paddled toward us. I now •hortened sail, as well to give these canoes time to come up with us, as to sound for anchorage. At the distance of about half-a-mile from the reef we found from forty to thirty-five fathoms water, over ^ bottom of fiue sand. Nearer in, ' "i bottom was strewed with corul , 'he canoes having advanced I - • the distance of a pistol-shot from •, - ship, there stop- ped. Omai was employed, as he usually had boen on such occasions, to use all his eloquence to prevail npon the men in them to come nearer, but no entreaties could induce them to trust themselves within our reach. They kept eagerly pointing to the shore with theu" paddles, and calling to us to go thither ; and several of their countrymen who stood upon the beach held up something white, which we considered also as an invitaticm to land. We could very well have done this, as there was good anchorage without the reef, and a break or open- ing in it, from whence the canoes had come out, which had no surf upon it, and where, if there was not water for the ships, there was more than suffi- cient for the boats. But 1 did not think proper to risk losing the advan- tage of a fair wind for the sake of examining an island that appeared to be of little consequence. We stood in no need of refreshments, if I had been sure of meeting with them there ; and having already been so unexpect- edly delayed in my progress to the Society Islands, I was desirous of avoiding every possibility of further letardment. For this reason, after making several unsuccessful attempts to induce tliese people to come along- side, I made sail to the north, and left them, but not without getting from them during their vicinity to OUT ship the name of their island, which they called Toobouai. It is situated in the Latitude of 22' W S., and in 210° 37' E. Longitude. Its firreatest extent in any direction, ex- clusive of the reef is not above five or six miles. After leaving this island, I steered to the N. with a fresh gale at E. by S., and at daybreak in the morning of the 12th we saw the island of Maitea. Soon after Otaheite made its appearance, and at noon it ex- tended from SW. by W. to WNW., the point of Oheitepeha Bay, bearing W., about four leagues distant. I steered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order to draw what refreshments I could from the SE. part of the island before 1 went down to Matavai, from the neighbourhood of which station I expected my prin- cipal supply. We had a fresh g.ile easterly till 2 o'clock in the afternoon, when, being about a league from the bay, the wind suddenly died away, and was succeeded by baflling light airs from every direction, and calms by turns. This lasted about two hours ; then we had sudden squalls, with rain, from the east. These carried us before the bay, where we got a breeze from the land, and at- tempted in vain to work in, to gain the anchoring place ; so that at last, about 9 o'clock, we were rbliged to stand out and to spend thv night at sea. When we first drew near the island several canoes came off to the ship, each conducted by two or three men. But as they were common fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him. They did not even seem to perceive that he waa one of their countrymen, although they conversed with him for some time. At length a chief whom I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three or four more persons, all of whom knew Omai before he embarked with Caj»tain Furneaux, came on board. Yet there was nothing either tender or striking in their meetine. On the contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifference on both sides^ till Omai, having takan his brothw COOK'S VOYAGES. V i ( \ I I I 170 dowu into the cabin, opened the drawer where he kopt bis red featnera, and gave him a few. This being pre- sently known amongst the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely turned, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Ouiai before, now begged that they might be "tayos,"^ and exchange names. Omai accepted of the honour, and confirmed it with a present of red feathers, and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a hog. Hut it was evident to every one of us that it was not the man, but liis property, they were in love with. Had ho not shown them his treasure of red fea- thers, which is the commodity in greatest estimation at the island, I question much whether they would have bestowed even a cocoa-nut upon him. Such was Omai's first reception among his countrj'men. I own I never expected it would be otherwise, but still I was in hopes that the valuable cargo of presents with which the liberality of his friends in England had loaded him would be the means of raising him into consequence, and of making him respected and even courted by the first persons throughout the ex- tent of the Society Islands. This could not but have happened had he conducted himself with any degree of prudence. But instead of it, I am sorry to say that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice of those who wished him well, and suffered himself to be duped by every design- ing knave. From the natives who came off to us in the course of this day we learned that two ships had twice been in Oheitepeha Ray since my last visit to this island, in 1774, and that they had left animals there such as we had on board. But on further inquiiy we found they were only hogs, dogs, goats, one bull, and the male of some other animal, which from the imper- fect description now given us we could not find out. They told us that these ships had come from a place called *' Keema," by which we guessed that * Friends. [Voy.ITI.B.III.Ch.1. Lima, the capital of Peru, was meant, and that these lato visitors were Spaniards. Wo were informed that the first time they came they built a house, and left four men behind them — viz., two priests, a boy or servant, and a fourth person, called Mateema, who was much spoken of at this time, caiTying away with them when they sailed ifour of the natives ; that in about ten months the same two 6hi])s returned, bringing back two of the islanders, the other two having died at Lima ; and that after a short stay th(?y took away their own peo})le, but that the house which they had built was left standing. The important news of red feathers being on board our ships having been conveyod on shore by Omai's friends, day had no sooner begun to break next morning tlian wo were surrounded by a multitude of canoes crowded with people, bringing hogs and fruit to market. At first, a quantity of feathers not gi'eater than what might be got from a torn -tit would purchase a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight. But as almost everybody in the ships was jiossessed of some of this precious article in trade, it fell in its vt.lue above 500 per cent, before night. How- ever, even then the balance was much in our favour ; and red feathers con- tinued to preserve their superiority over every other commodity. Some of the natives would not part with a hog unless they received an axe in exchange ; but nails, and beads, and other trinkets, which during our for- mer voyages had so great a run at this island, were now so much desj)ised that few would deign so much as to look at them. There being but little wind all the morning, it was 9 o'clock before we could get to an anchor in the bay, where we moored with two bowers. Soon after we had anchored, Omai's sister came on board to see him. I was happy to observe that, much to the honour of them both, their meet-* ing was marked with expressions of the tenderest affection, easier to be conceived than to be described. This moving scene having closed, and tha I I I the Atto. 177*.J TRACES OF A VISIT •hip beiiiy proporly moored, Omai and I went ashore. Aly lirst object was to pay a visit to a man whom my friend reprosonted as a very extra- ordinary personage indeed, for he said that he wa;H the god of 13ohibola. "We found him seated under one of those small awnings which they usually carry in their larger canoes, lie w.w an elderly man, and had lost the use of his limbs, so that he was carriid from place to place upon a liaiid-bar- row. Some calh'd liim "Uiia" or "Orra," which is the name of the god of Bolabola ; but his own proper name was Etary. From Omai's ac- count of this pei-son I expected to have seen some religious adoration paid to him ; but excepting some plantain trees that lay before him Rud upon the awning under which he sat, I coidd observe nothing by which he might be distinguished from tlieir other chiefs. Oiuai presented to him a tuft of red feathers tied to the end of a small stick ; but, after a little conversation on indilFerent matters with this Bolabola man, his attention was drawn to an old woman, the sister of his mother. She was already at his feet, and had bedewed them plen- tifully with tears of joy. I left him with the old lady, in the midst of a number of people who had gathered round him, and went to take a view of the house said to be built by the strangers who had lately been here. I found it standing at a •mall distance from the beach. The wooden materials of which it was com- posed seemed tc have been brouglit hither ready prepared, to be set up occasionally ; for all the planks were numbered. It was divided into two small rooms ; and in the inner one were a bedstead, a table, a bench, some old hats, and other trifles, of which the natives seemed to be very careful, as also of the house itself, which had sulferod no hurt from the weather, a shed having been built over it. There were scuttles all around which served as air holes ; and per- haps they were also meant to tire from with muskets, if ever this should be found necessary. At a little distance MADE BY SPANIAKDS. 171 from the front stood a wooden cross, on the transverse part of wliich was cut the following inscrijjtiou : " Cliristua vhicit." And on the ])erpendicular part (which confirmed our oonjecture that the two shijts were Si)anisii) : " Carolus III. Imperat. 1774." On tlie other side of the post I pre- served the memory of the prior visits of the English by inscribing : **Gconjius Tcrtias A'eaj, Annis 1767, 1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777." The natives pointed out to us, near the foot of the cross, the grave of the Commodore of the two ships, who had died here while they lay in the bay the first time. His name, as they pronounced it, Wtos Oreede, What- ever the intentions of the Spaniards in visiting this island mii;lit be, tiiey seemed to have taken great pains to ingratiate themselves with the inha- bitants ; who upon every occasion mentioned them with the strongest expressions of esteem and veneration. I met with no chief of any consider- able note on this occasion excepting the extraordinary pei-sonago above de- scribed. Waheiadooa, the sovereign of Tiaraboo (as this part of the island is called), was now absent ; and I afterwards found that he was not the same person, though of the same name, with the chief whom I had seen hero during my last voyage, but his brother, a boy of about ten years of age, who had succeeded upon the death of the elder AVaheiadooa, about twenty months before our arrival. We also learned that the celebrated Oberoa was dead, but that Otoo and all our other friends were living. When I returned from viewing the house and cross erected by tho Spaniards, I found Omai holding forth to a large company ; and it was with some diffi- culty that he could be got away to accon\pany me on board, where I had an important affair to settle. On our landing [on tho 17th] we first visited Etary, who, carried on a % ■I J' \ fi. 172 COOK'S VOYAGEa [Voy. III. B. III. Cn. 1. ( ] hand-barrow, attended us to a largo house, where he was set down, and we seatod ourselves on e.ach side of him. I caused a piece of Tongataboo cloth to be spread out before us, on which I laid the presents I intended to make. Presently the young chief came, attemled by his mother and several principal men, who all seated themselves at the otiier end of the cloth, facing us. Then a man who sat by me made a speech, consisting of short and separate sentences, part of which was dictated by those about him. He was answered by one from the opposite side, near the chief. Etary spoke next, then Omai ; and both of them were answered from the same quarter. These orations were entirely about my arrival, and con- nections with tliem. The person who spoke last told me, amongst other things, that the men of "Reema," that is, the Spaniards, had desired them not to suffer me to come into Oheitepeha Bay if I should return any more to the island, for that it belonged to them ; but that they were so far from paying any regard to this request, that he was authorised now to make a formal surrender of the province of Tiaraboo to me, and every- thing in it ; which marks very plainly that tliese people are no strangers to the policy of accommodating them- selves to present circumstances. At length the young chief was directed by his attendants to come and em- brace me ; and by way of confirming this treaty of friendship we exchanged names. The ceremony being closed, he and his friends accompanied me on board to dinner. Omai had prepared a *' marc," com- posed of red and yellow feathers, which he intended for Otoo, the King of the whole island ; and, considering where we were, it was a present of very great value. I said all that I could to per- snade him not to produce it now, wishing him to keep it on board till an opportunity should offer oi pre- senting it to Otoo with his o\m hands. But he had too good an opinion of the honesty and fidelity of his country- men to take my adyioe. Nothing would serve him but to carry it ashort on this occasion, and to give it to Walioirtdooa, to be by him f(»rwarded to Otoo, in order to its being added to the royal "maro." He thought by this management that he should oblige both chiefs; whereas he highly disobliged the one whose fayonr was of the most consequence to him, with- out gaining any reward from the other. What I had foreseen hap- pened ; for Waheiadooa kept the "maro" for hiT^''"lf, and only sent to Otoo a very small piece of feathers, not the twentieth part of what be- longed to the magnificent present. On the 19th this young chief made me a present of ten or a dozen hogs, a quan- tity of fruit, and some cloth. In the evening we played off some fireworks, whicli both astonished and entertained the numerous spectators. This dav some of our gentlemen in their walks fonri'^ what they were pleased to call Roman Catholic chapel. Indeed, from their account, this was not to be doubted, for they described the altar and every other constituent part of such a place of worship. However, as they men- tioned at the same time that two men who had the care of it would not suffer them to go in, I thought that they might be mistaken, and had the curiosity to pay a visit to it myself. The supposed chapel proved to be a ** toopapaoo," in which the remains of the late Waheiadooa lay as it were in state. It was in a pretty large house, which was enclosed with a low palisade. The " toopapaoo " was un- commonly neat, and resembled one of those little houses, or awnings, be- longing to their large canoes. Per- haps it had originally been employed for that purpose. It was covered, and hung round with cloth and mats of different colours so as to have e pretty effect. There was one piece of scarlet broad-cloth four or five yards in length conspicuous among the other ornaments, which no doubt had been a present from the Spaniards. This cloth, and a few tassels of feathers which our gentlemen supposed to be silk, suggested to tiiem the idea of n 'i f. be- Auo. 1777.] A MAD PROPHET. chap«l ; for whaterfcr else was want- ing to create a resemblance, their im- agiuation supplied ; and if tliey had not previously known that there had been S]>aniards lately here they could Bot nossibly have nindo the mistake. 8mall otTerings of fruit and roots seemed to be daily made at this shrine, AS some pieces were quite ireali. These were deposited upon a " whatta," or altar, which stood without the pali- sades ; and within these wo were not permitted to enter. Two men con- •tantly attended night and day, not only to watch over tne place, but also to dress and undress the *' toopapaoo. " For when 1 first went to survey it, the cloth and its appendages were all rolled up ; but at my request the two attendants hung it out in order, first dressing themselves in clean white robes. They told me that the chief had been dead twenty months. Having taken in a fresh supply of water, and finished all our other ne- cessary operations, on the 22d I brought off the cattle and sheep which had been put on shore here to graze, and made ready for sea. In the morning of the 23d, while the ships were unmooring, Omai and I landed to take leave of tho young chief. While we were with him, one of tliose enthusiastic j)ersous whom they call *' Eatooas," from a persuasion that they are possessed with the spirit of the Divinity, came and stood before us. He had all the appearance of a man not in his right senses, and his only dress was a large quantity of plantain leaves wrapped round his waist. He spoke in a low squeaking voice so as hardly to be understood, at least not by me. But Omai said that he comprehended him perfectly, and that he was advising Waheiadooa not to go with me to Matavai, an ex- pedition which I had never heard he intended, nor had I ever made such a {>roposal to him. The " Eatooa " also bretold that the ships would not get to Matavai that day. But in this he was mistaken, though appearances jovr rather favoured his prediction, there not being a breath of wind in tny direction. While he was propbe- 173 syin^, there fell a very heavy shower of ram, which made every one run for shelter but himself, who seemed not to regard it. Ho remained squeaking by us about half-an-hour, and then retired. No one paid any attention to what he uttered, though some laughed at him. I asked the chief what ho was, whether an " Earee " or a " Towtow," and the answer I received was, that he was "taatoeno," that is, a bad man. And yet, notwith- standing this, and the little notice any of the natives seemed to take of the mad prophet, superstition has so far got the better of their retison that they firmly believe such persons to be possessed with the spirit of the '* Ea- tooa." Omai seemed to be very well instructed about them. He said that during the fits that cai&e upon them they knew nobody, not even their most intimate acquaintances ; and that if any one of them happens to bo a man of property he will very often give away every movable he is pos- sessed of if his friends do not put them out of his reach ; and when he recovers, will inquire what had be- come of those very things which he had but just before distributed, not seeming to have the least remenibrance of what he had done while the fit was upon him. As soon as I got on board a light breeze springing up at E., we got under sail and steered for Matavai Bay, where the Resolution anchored the same evening. But the Discovery did not get in till the next morning, so that half of the man's prophecy was fulfilled. CHAPTER 11. About 9 o'clock in the morning, Otoo^ the King of the whole island, attended, by a great number of canoes full of people, came from Oparre, his place of residence ; and having landed on Matavai Point, sent a message on board expressing his desire to see mt there. Accordingly I landed, accoiu* panied by Omai and some of the offi< 174 COOK'S VOYAO KS. [Voy. III. B. III. Ch. It i\ cerg. We found a prodigious munbor nf people asseniblea on this occasion, and in the 'nidst of tbum was tlie King, attended by lii.i fiithcr, bis tv.o brothers, and three siHtors. l went np first and saluted him, being fol- lowed by Onuii, who kneeled and em- braced liis logs. He had prepand himself lor this ceremony by dressing hiniseir in his very best suit of elothes, and biduived with a great deal of re- sjioct and modesty. Nevertheless, very little notice was taken of him. Perhaps envy had some share in j)ro- dncing this cold reception. lie nuulo the chief a present of a large jtioco of red feathers and about two or tlirec yards of gold clotli ; and I gave him a suit of lino linefi, a gold-laced hat, some tools, and, what was of moro value than all the other articles, a quantity of red feathers and one of the bonnets in use at the Friendly Islands. After tlio hurry of this visit was over, the King and the whole roynl family accompanied me on board, fol- lowed by several canoes hiden ^^ ith ail kinds of provisions, in quantity sulli- cieut to have served the companies of both ships for a week. Each of the family owned, or pretended to own, a part, so that I had a present from every one of them ; and every one of them had a separate present in retuni from me, which was the great object in view. Soon after, the King's mother, who had not been present at the first interview, came on board, bringing with her a quantity of pro- visions and cloth, which she divided between me and Omai. For although he was but little noticed at first by his countrymen, they no sooner gained the knowledge of his riches than they began to court his friend- ship. I encouiaged this as much as I could, for it was my wish to fix him with Otoo. As I intended to leave all my European animals at this island, I thought he would be able to give some instruction about the manage- ment of them and about their use. Besides, I knew and saw that the farther he was from his native island be would be the better respected. But unfortunately poor Omai rejected my advice, and conducted liimself in so imprudent a manner that he soon lost tlie fricmdship of Otoo, and of every other ])erson of note in Otaheite. He associated with none but vagabonds and strangers, whose sole views were to [)lin)der him ; and if I had not in* terl'ered they wouM not have loft him a single article \;orth the carry- ing fioni tlie ialanil. This necessarily dnw upon him the ill-will of the |)riiicipnl chiefs, who found that they could not procure from any one in the ships such valuable presents as Omai bestowed on the lowest of the people, his com[>anions. As soon as wo had dined, a party of us accompanied Otoo to Ojjarre, taking with us the poultry with which we were to stock the island. They consisted of a peacock and hen (which Lord Bessborough was so kind as to send me for this purpose a few days before I left London), a turkey cock and hen, one gander and three geese, a drake and four ducks. All these I left at Oparre in the j)ossession of Otoo; and the geese and ducks began to breed before we sailed. We found there a gander which the na- tives told us was the same that Cap- tain Wallis had given to Oberea ten years before, several goats, and the Spanish bull, which they kept tied to a tree near Otoo's house. I never saw a finer animal of his kind. Ho was now the property of Etary, and had been brought from Oheitcpeha to this place i;i order to be shipped for Bolabola. But it passes my com- prehension how they can contrive to carry him in one of their canoes. If we had not arrived, it would have been of little consequence who had the property of him, as without a cow he could bo of no use, and none had been left with him. Though the natives told us that there were cows on board the Spanish ships, and that they took them away with them, I cannot believe this, and should rather suppose that they had died in the passage from Lima. The next day 1 sent the three Cows that I had on board to this bull ; and the bull which I I Aro. 1777.1 WJROPEAN ANTMAI.S LANDED. ( had brought, the hone and mnre, and Bheop, I put uslioro nt Mtituvai. Karing thus diHj)03od of tlicse pas- sengers, I found myself liglitonod of troul' 17.T a Tory hoavy burthen. The irouoio and vexation tlmt attended the Wring- ing of this living cargo thus far is hardly to bo contMiived ; Itut the satis- faction that 1 felt in having been so fortunate as to fulfil his Majt'sty's humane design in scmling such valu- able animals to supply the wants of two worthy nations, sulHciently re- compensed me for the many anxious hours I had passed before tliis subor- dinate object of my voyage could bo carried into execution. As I intended to make some stay here, we set up the two observatories on Matavai Point. Adjoining to thera two tents were pitclied for the recep- tion of a guard, and of such people as it might be necessary to leave on shore in different departments. At this station I entrusted tlie command to Mr King, who, at the same time, attended the observations for ascer- taining the going of the time-keeper and iiJier purposes. During our stay Various necessary operations employed the crewa of both ships. The Dis- covery's mainmast was carried ashore and made as good as ever. Our sails and water-casks were repaired ; the ships were calked ; and the rigging all overhai\led. We also inspected all the bread that we had on board in casks, and had the satisfaction to find that but little of it wa.'j damaged. On the 26th I had a piece of ground cleared for a garden, and planted it with several articles, very few of which I believe the natives will ever look after. Some melons, potatoes, and two pine-apple plant? were in a fair way of succeedin'^ be. >re we left the place. I had brought from the Friendly Islands several shaddock trees. These I also planted here, and they can hardly fail of success, unless their growth should be checked by the same premature curiosity which destroyed a vine planted by the Spaniards at Oheitepeha. A number of the natives got together to taste tKt first fniit it bore : but as the prapes wore still sonr they considered It as little better than poison, and it was unanimously detennined to tread it under foot. In that state Omai fouiul it by chance, and was overjoyed at the discovery; for he had a full coulideuce that if be had but grapes he could easily make wine. Accord- ingly he had several slips cut from olF the tree to carry away with him, and we i)runed and put in order the re- mains of it. Trobably grown wise by Omai's instructions, they may now suller the fruit to gi-ow to perfection, and not pass so hasty a sentence upon it again. We had not been eight -and -forty hours at anchor in Matavai l'>ay be. fore we were visited by our old friends whose names are recorded in the ac- count of my last voyage. ■ Not one of them came empty-handed, so that we had more provisions than we knevr what to do with. Wiiat was still more, we were under i.o apprehen- sions of exhausting the island, which presented to our eyes every mark of the most exuberant plenty in every article of refreshment. Soon after our arrival here, one of the natives whom the Spaniards had carried with them to Lima paid us a visit ; but in his external appearance he was not distinguishable from the rest of his countrymen. However, he had not forgot some Spanish words which he had ac(iuired, though he pronounced them badly. Amongst them the most frequent were '* Si, Seftor; " and when a stranger was introduced to him he did not fail to rise up and accost hin? as well as he could. We also found here the young man whom wo called Oorlidee, but whose real name is Heete-heete. I had carried him from Ulietea in 1773, and brought him back in 1774, after he had visited the Friendly Islands, New Zealand, Easter Island, and the Marquesas, and been on board my ship in that extensive navigation about seven months. He was at least as tenaci- ous of his good breeding as the maa who had been at Lima, and " Yes, Sir," or "If you please, Sir," were as frequentlv repeatetl by him as •' Si. ^ %. 176 I '. I. •'\ Seflor" was by Uie other. Heete- hcete, who is a native of Bolabola, had arrived in Otaheite about three months before, with no other inten- tion tliat we conld learn than to gra- tify his curiosity, or perhaps some other favourite passion, which are very often the only object of the fursuit of other travelling gentlemen, t was evident, however, that he pre- ferred the modes and even garb of his countrymen to ours ; for though 1 gave him some '.''othes which our Ad- miralty Board aad been j)leased to send for his use (to which 1 added a chest of tools and a few other articles as a present from myself), he declined wearing them after a few days. This instance, and that of the person who had been at Lima, may be urged as a proof of the strong propensity natiu'al to man of returning to habits acquired at an early age, and only interrupted by accident. And perhaps it may be concluded that even Oiuai, who had imbibed almost the whole English manners, will in a very short time after our leaving him, like Oedidee and the visitor of Lima, return to his own native garments. In the morning of the 27th a man came from Oheitepeha, and told us that t^vo Spanish ships had anchored in that bay the night before ; and in confirmation of this intelligence he produced a piece of coarse blue cloth, which he said he got out of one of the ships, and which, indeed, to ap- pearance was almost quite new. He added that Muteema was in one of the ships, and that they were to come down to Matavai in a day or two. Some other circumstances which he mentioned with the foregoing ones, gave the story so much the air of truth, that I despatched Lieutenant Williamson in a boat to look into Oheitepeha Bay ; and in the mean- time I put the ships into a proper posture of def'^Tice. For though England and bpain were in peace when I left Euroiie, for aught I knew a dilferent scene might by this time have opened. However, on further inquiry wa had reason to think that the fellow who brought the intelli- COOK'S V0YAGE3. (Toy. IIL B. IIL Cfl. IL gence had imposed upon us ; and thia was put beyond all doubt when Mr Williamson returned next day, who made his report to VLa that he had been at Oheitepeha, and fouTid that no ships were there now, and that none had been there since we left it The people of this part of the island where we now were, ind»,ed, told us from the beginning that it was a fiction invented by those of Tiaraboo. But what view they could have we wore at a loss to conceive, unless they supposed that the report would have some effect in making us quit the island, and by that means deprive the people of Otaheite-nooe of the advantages they might reap from our ships continuing there; the inhabi- tants of the two parts of the island being inveterate enemies to each other. From the time of our arrival at Matavai the weather had been very unsettled, with more or less rain eveiy day, till the 29th ; before which we were not able to get equal altitudes of the sun for ascertaining the going of the time-keeper. The same cause also retarded the calking and other necessary re])airs of the ships. In the evening of this day the natives made a precipitate retreat both from on board the ships and from our station on shore, for what reason we could not at first learn, though in general we guessed it arose from their knowing that some theft had been committed, and apprehending punish- ment on that account. At length I understood what had happened. One of the surgeon's mates had been in the country to purchase curiosities, and hail taken with him four hatchets for that purjtose. Having employed one of the natives to carry them for him, the fellow took an opportunity to run off with so valuable a prize. This was the cause of the sudden flight, in which Otoo himself and his whole family had joined; and it was with diflHoulty that I stopped them, after following them two or three miles. As I had resolved to take no measures fur the recovery of the hatchets, in order to put my peo])l6 upon their guard against such negli- our we L in their One n in ties, ;heta oyed I for nity rize. Iden his was lem, Ihree no the legli- Sept. 1777. 1 WAR WlTli EIMEO gencp for the future, I found no dilR- culty in bringing the natives haok and in restoring everything to its usual tranquillity. Hitherto tlie attention of Otoo and his people had been confined to us; but next morning a new scene of business opened by the arrival of some messengers from Eimeo or (as it is much oftcner called by the na- tives) Morea,^ with intellii^cneo that the peo])le in that island were in arms, and that Otto's partisans there had been worsted and obliged to re- treat to the mountains. The quarrel between the two islands, which com- menced in l??!, h»d, it seems, partly subsisted ever sinc^. . . . On the arrival of these messengers, all the chiefs who happened to be at Matavai assembled at Otoo's house, where I actually w us at the time, and had the honour to be admitted into their council. Onu of the messengers opened the business of the assembly in a speech of consideiable length ; but I understood little of it besides its general purport, which was to ex- plain the situation of atlairs in Eimeo, and to excite the assembled chiefs of Otaheite to aim on the occasion. This opinion was combated by others who were against commencing hos- tilities ; and the debate was carried on with great order, no more than one man speaking at a time. At last tliey became very noisy, and I ex- pected that our meeting would have ended like a Polish Diet. But the contending great men cooled as fast as they grew warm, and order was soon i-estored. At length the party for war prevailed, and it was deter- mined that a strong force should be sent to assist their friends in Eimeo. But this resolution was far from being unanimous. Otoo during the whole debate remained silent, except that now and then he addressed a word or two to the speakers. Those of the council who were for prosecuting the war applied to me for my assistance ; and all of them wanted to know what * Morea, according to Dr Forster, is a district in Eimoo. DETERMINED UPON. 177 [art 1 would take. Omai was sent for to be my iiitei ]ireter ; but as he could not be found I was obliged to speak for myself, and told thein, as well as I could, that as 1 was not thoroughly acquainted with the dispute, and as the people of Eimeo had never offended me, I could not think myself at liberty to engage in hostilities against them. With this declaration they oitlier were or seemed satisfied. The assembly then broke up ; but before 1 left them Otoo desired me to come to him in the afternoon, and to bring Omai with me. Accordingly, a party of ti^" waited upon him at the ap- pointed time, and we were conducted by him to his father, in v;hose pre- sence the dispute with Eimeo was again talked over. Being very desir- ous of devising some method to bring about an accomnudation, I sounded the old chief on that head ; but we found him deaf to any such proposal, and fully determined to prosecute the war. He repeated the solicitations which I had already resisted about giving them my assistance. On our inquiring into the cause of the war, we were told, that some years ago a brother of Waheiadooa, of Tiaraboo, was sent to Eimeo, at the request of Maheine, a popular chief of that island, to be their king ; but that he had not been there a week before Maheine, having caused him to be killed, set up for himself, in opposi- tion to Tierataboonooe, his sister s son, who became the lawful heir, or els9 had been pitched upon by the people of Otaheite to succeed to the govern- ment on the death of the other. Towha, who is a relation of Otoo and chief of the district of Tettaha, a man of much weight in the island, and who had been commander-in- chief of the armament fitted out against Eimeo in 1774, happened not to be at Matavai at this time, and consequently was not present at any of these consultations. It, however, appeared that he was no stranger to what vas transacted, and that he en- tered with more spirit into the aflair than any other chief. For early in the morning of the Ist of September a 178 COOK'S VOYAGES. if U I IMi n-.. messenger arrived from him to ac- quaint Otoo that he had killed a man to be sacrificed to "Eatooa," to im- plore the assistance of the god against Jilimeo. This act of worsliip was to \te perlbnned at the groat "morai" at Attahooroo, andOloo's presence, it seems, was absolutely necessary on that Bolemn occasion. That the olFering of human sacrifices is part of the religi- ous institutions of this island had been mentioned by M. do Bougain- ville on the authority of the native whom he carried with him to France. During my last visit to Otaheite, and while I had opportunities of convers- ing with Omai on tlie subject, 1 had satisfied myself that there was too much reason to admit that such a practice, however inconsistent with the general humanity of the people, was here adopted. But as this was one of those extraordinary facts al,>out which many are apt to retain doubts unless the relater himself has had ocular proofs to confirm what ho had heard from others, I thouc,ht this a good op])ortunity of obtaining the highest evidcnoo of its ceil.ainty by being present myself at the solemnity, and accordingly pro])osed to Otoo tliat I might be allowed toaccoiii]tany him. To this he readily consented, and we immediately set out in my bont, with my old friend Potatou, IVl r Anderson, and Mr Webber, Omsii followMig in a canoe. In our way we hiiided upon a little island which lies olf Tettalia, where we found 'i'owha and liis re- tinue. After some little conversation between the two chiefs on the subject of the war, Towha addressed himself to me, asking my assistance. Wlien I excused myself, he seemed angry ; thinking it strange that 1, who had always declared myself to be the friend of their island, would not now go and fight against its enemies. Belbre we parted, he gave to Otoo two or three red leathers tied up in a tuft, and a lean, half-starvod dog was put into a canoe that was to accompany us. "\V(! then em- barked again, talcing on board a i wriest who was to assist at the solemnity. As soon as we lauded at Attahooroo, l/hioh was about 2 o'clock in th« [VoY.lII.B.Ulf.eH.II. afternoon, Otoo expressed his desire that the seamen mi.tjht be ordered to remain in the boat ; and that Mr Anderson, Mr Webber, and my.self, might take otl our hats as soon as we should come to the "morai," to which we immediately proceeded, at- tended by a great many men and some boys, but not one woman. We found four [)riests and their attend- ants or assistants waiting Tor us. The dead body, or sacrifice, was in a small cauoo that lay on the beach, and partly in the wash of the sea, fronting the "niorai." Two of the priests, with some of their attendants, were sitting by the canoe ; the others at the "niorai." Our company stopped about twenty or thirty paces from the jiiiests. Heic Otoo placed himself; we and a few others standing by him, while the bulk of the people remained at a greater distance. The ceremonies now began. One of the priest's attendants brought a young ]»lantain tree and laid it down before Otoo. Another approached with a small tuft of red feathers, twisted on some fibres of the cocoa- nut husk, with which he touched one of the King's feet, and then retired with it to his companions. One of the priests seated at the " morai," facing those who were upon the beach, now began a long prayer, and at certain times sent down young plantain trees, which were laid upon the sacrifice. During this prayer, a man who stood by the officiating priest held in his bunds two bundles, seemingly of cloth. In one of them, as we after- ward found, was the royal "maro," and the other, if I may be allowed the exju'ossion, was the ark of the "Eatooa." As soon as the prayer was ended, the priests at the " morai," with their attendants, went and sat down by those upon the beach, carry- ing with them the two bundles Hero they renewed their prayers, dur- ing which the plantain trees were taken one by one, at ditVerent times, from off the sacrifice, which was partly wrapped up in cocoa leaves and smaU branches. It was now taken out of the canoe, and laid upon the beach, A HUMAN SACRIFICE. 179 liira to comi»ly with snch requests. raver jvai," sat Sept. 1777.] with the feet to the sea. The priests placed themselves around it, smne sitting and others standing, and one or more of them repeated sentences for about ten minutes. The dead body was now uncovered, by remov- ing the leaves and branches, and laid in a parallel direction with the sea- shore. One of the })riests then, stand- ing at the feet of it, ^i<»nounced a long prayer, in which ho was at times joined by the others, each holding in his hand a tuft of rod feathers. In the course of tliis prayer, some hair was pulled olf the head of the sacri- fice, and the left eye taken out ; both which were presented to Otoo, wrap- ped up in a green leaf. He did not, however, touch it, but gave to the jnan who presented it the tu/t of leathers whicli he haii. received from Towha. This, witli the hair and eye, was carried back to the priests. Soon after, (Jtoo sent to tiiem another piece of feathers, which he had given me in the morning to keep in my pocket. During some part of this last cere- mony, a kinglisher making a noise in the treepi, Otoo turned to me, saying, "That in the 'Eatooa,'" and seemed to look upon it to be a good omen. The body was then carrietl a little way, with its head toward the * moral," and laid under a tree; near which were tixed three broad thin piwes of wood ditl'erently but rudely ';arved. The bundles of cloth were laid on a part of the " morai ;" and the tufts of red feathers were placed at the feet of tho sacrifice, round which the j)riests took tlieir stations; and we were now allowed to go as near as we pleased. He who seemed to be tht chief priest sat at H small dif^.tance, and spoke for a quarter of an hour, but with different tones and gestures ; so that he seemed often to expostulate with tlie dead person, to whom he constantly ad- dressed himself; and sometimes asked several questions, seen)ingly ;vith re- spect to the propriety of his having been killed. At other timet, he made several demands, ai if t\u deceased cither now had power himself, or interest with the Divinity, to engage I sat pi-aying round the grave. They Amongst which, we understood, he asked him to deliver Eimeo, Maheine its chief, the hogs, women, and other things of the island, into their hands ; which was, indeed, the express inten- tion of the sacrifice. He then chanted a prayer, which lasted half-an-hour, in a whining, melancholy tone, ac- companied by two other priests ; in which Potatou and some others joined. In the course of this prayer some more hair was plucked by a priest from the head of the corpse, and put upon one of the bundles. After this the chief ]tMcst prayed alone, holding in his liand tlie feathers which came from Towha. When he had finished, he gave them to another, who prayed in like manner. Then all the tufts of feathers were laid upon the bum lies of cloth ; which closed the ceremony at this place. The corpse was then carried up to the most conspicuous ])art of the "morai," with the feathers, the tw« bundles of clolh, and the drums ; the last of which boat slowly. The feathers and bundles vvere laid against the ])ile of stones, and the corpse at the foot of them. The prii;sts, having again seated themselves round it, re- newed their prayers; while some of the attendants dug a hole about two I'eet deep, into which they threw the unhappy victim, and covered it with earth and stones. While they were [•ulting him into the grave, a boy S(pieaked aloud, and Oniai said to me that it was the "Eatooa." During this time, a tire having been made, the dog before mentiuncd was pro- duced, and killed by twisting his neck and sutlbcating him. The hair was singed olf, and the entrails taken out and thrown into the fire, where they were left to consume. 13ut the heart, liver, and kidneys were only roasted by being laid on the stones for a few minutes ; and the body of the dog, after being besmeared with the blood which had been collected ilk a cocoa-nut shell and dried over the fire, was, with the liver, &c., carried and laid down before the priesta, who S9E A !if: 1 i ! 1 : 180 continued their ejaculations over the dog for some time, while two men, at intervals, beat on two drums very loud ; and a boy screamed, as before, in a loud, shrill voice three different times. This, as we were told, was to invite the "Eatooa";""© feast on the banquet that they had prepared for him. As soon as tlie priests had ended their prayers, the carcase of the dog, with what uslonged to it, were laid on a *' whatta," or scaffold. about six feet high, that stood close by, on which lay the remains of two other dogs and of two pigs which hail lately been sacrificed and at this time emitted an intolerable stench. This kept us at a greater distance than would otherwise have been required of us. For after the victim was re- moved from the seaside toward the '* moral, " we were allowed to approach as near as we pleased. Indeed, after that, neither seriousness nor attention were much observed by the specta- tors. When the dog was put upon the "whatta," the priests and attend- ants gave a kind of sliout, which closed the ceremonies for the present. The day being now also closed, we were conducted to a house belonging to Potatou, where we were entertained and lodged for the night. "We had been told that the religious rites were to be renewed in the morning ; and 1 would not leave the place, while anything remained to be seen. Being unwilling to lose any part of the solemnity, some of us repaired to the scene of action pretty early, but found nothing going forAvard. How- ever, soon aiter, a pig was sacrificed and laid upon the same "whatta'' with the others. About 8 o'clock, Otoo took us again to the "moral," where the priests and a great number of men were by this time assembled. The two bundles occupied the place in which we had seen them deposited the preceding evening ; the two drams stood in the front of the "moral" but soinewiiat nearer it than before ; and the priests were beyond them. Otoo placed himself between the two drums, and desired me to stand by him. The ceremony began as usual COOK'S VOYAGES. [Tot. III. B. III. Ch. II. with bringing a young piantain-tree and laying it down at the King's feet. After this a prayer was repeated by the priests, who held in their hands several tufts of red feathers, and also a jtlume of ostrich feathers, which I had given to Otoo on my first arrival, and which had been consecrated to this use. When the priests had made an end of the prayer, they changed their station, placing then j selves be- tween us and the " moral ;" and one of them — the same person who had acted the principal part the day before — began another prayer, which lasted about half-an-hour. During the continuance of this, the tufts ot feathers were one by one carried and laid upon the ark of the " Eatooa." Some little time after, four pigs wore produced ; one of which was immediately killed, and the others were taken to a sty hard by, probably reserved for some future occasion of sacrifice. One of the bundles waa now untied, and it was found, as I have before observed, to contain the "maro," with which these people invest their kings ; and which seems to answer in some degree to the Euro- pean ensigns of royalty. It was care- fully taken out of the cloth in which it had been wrapped up, and spread at full length upon the ground before the priests. It is a girdle about five yards long and fifteen inches broad. ; and from its name seems to be put on in the same manner as is the com- mon "maro," or piece of clota, used by the.se people to wrap round the waist. It was ornamented with red and yellow feathers, but mostly with the latter, taken from a dove found upon the island. The one end was bordered with eight pieces, each about the size and shape of a horse-shoe, having their edges fringed with black feathers. The other end was forked, and the points were of diiferent lengths. The feathers were in square compartments, ranged in two rows, and otherwise so disposed as to pro- duce a pleasing effyci. They had been first pasted or fixed upon some of tlieir own country cloth, and then sewed to the upper end of the pen* i ^ OTHER CEREMONIES AT THE "MORAI." ive ped, rent pre jws, )ro- lad len SEPf. 1777.] dant which Captain Wallis had dis- played, and left flying ashore, the tirst time that he landed at J^latavai. This was what they told us ; and we had no reason to doubt it, as we could easily trace the remains of an English pendant. About six or eight inches square of the " maro " was uu- ornamented ; there being no feathers upon that space, except a few that had been sent by Waheiadooa, as already mentioned. The priests made a long prayer relative to this part of the ceremony, and, if 1 mistook not, they called it the prayer of the "maro." When it was finished, the badpe of royalty was carefully folded up, put into the cloth, and deposited again upon the * ' morai. " The other bundle which I have distinguished by the name of the ark, was next opened at one end ; but we were not allowed to go near enough \o examine its myster- ious contents. The information we received was, that the "Eatooa" to whom they had been sacrificing, and whose name is " Ooro," was concealed in it ; or rather what is supposed to represent him. This sacred repository is made of the twisted fibres of the husk of the cocoa-nut, shaped some- what like a large fid, or sugar-loaf — that is, roundish, with one end much thicker than the other. We had very often got small ones from different people, but never knew their use before. By this time the pig that had been killed was cleaned, and the entrails taken out. These ha])pened to have a considerable share of those convul- sive motions which often appear in different parts after an animal is kille . and this was considered by the sjectators as a very favourable rmeu to the expedition on account of Wijicli tf'e sacrifices had been offered. Jter being exposed for some time, that those who choose might exariiine their api)earances, the entrails wore carri; \ to the priests and laid down before them. While one of tlio num- ber prayed, another inspuctod the entrails more nan-owly, and kept taming them gently with a stick. ^ * There is a grotesque analogy be- 181 When they had bciA sufficiently examined, they were thrown into the fire and left to consume. The sacri- ficed pig, and its liver, &c., were now put upon the "whatta" where the dog had been deposited the day be* fore ; then all the feathers, except the ostrich plume, were enclosed with the " Eatooa" in the ark ; and the solemnity finally closed. Four double canoes lay upon the beach before the place of sacrifice all the morning. On the fore-part of each of these was fixed a small platform covered with palm-leaves tied in mysterious knots; and this also is called a "morai." Some cocoa-nuts, plantains, pieces of bread-fruit, fish, and other things, lay upon each of these naval ' * morals. " .W^e were told that they belonged to the '* Eatooa;" and that they were to attend the fleet designed to go against Eimeo. The unhappy victim ofiered to the object of their worship upon this oc- casion seemed to be a middle-aged man, and, as we were told, was a tow- tow — that is, one of the lowest class of the people. But, after all my inquiries, 1 could not learn that ha had been pitched upon on account of any particular crime committed by him meriting death. It is certain, however, that they generally make choice of such guilty persons for their sacrifice ; or else of common low fel« lows, who stroll about from place to place anvl from island to island with- out having any fixed abode or any visible way of getting an honest live- lihood ; of which description of men enough are to be met with at these islands. Having had an opportunity of examining the appearance of the body of the juior sufferer now offered up, 1 could observe that it was bloody about the head and face, and a good deal bruised upon the right temple, which marked the manner of hLs being tween these South Sea soothsayers and the Roman " haruspices," whose never highly -honoured craft it was to draw omens of good or ill from tho entrails of victims slain in the same sort of interrogatory sacrifice. I I n 182 Killed. And we were told that lie had oeen privately knocked on the head with a stone. Thoso who are devoted to suffer, in order to i>erlorin this bloody act of worsliiji, are never ap- prized nj' their fate till the blow is given that puts an end to their exist- ence. Whenever any one ol' the great chiefs thinks a luinian sacrilice nei-es- sary on any particular emergency, ho E itches upon the victim. Some of is trusty servants are then sent, \viio fall upon him suddenly and put him to death with a club or by stoning him. The King is next acquainted with it, whose presence at the soienm rites that follow is, as I was told, absolutely necessary ; and indeed on the present occasion we could o])sorve that Otoo bore a principal part. The solemnity itself is called " Poor© Eree," or chief's prayer ; and the victim, who is otlerod up, "Taata- taboo," or consecrated man. T!js is the only instance where we have heard the word "taboo " used at this island, where it seems to have the same mysterious signification as at Tonga ; though it is there applied to all cases where things are not to be ionched. But at Otaheite the wcrd yma." serves the same purpose, and is full as extensive in its meaning. The "moral " (which, undoubtedly, is a place of worship, sacrifice, and burial, at the same time) where the sacrifice was now offered, is that where the supreme chief of the whole island is always buried, and is ap))ropriated to his family and some of the princi- pal people. It differs little from the common ones except in extent. Its principal part is a large, oblong pile of stones, lying loosely upon each other, about twelve or fourteen feet high, contracted towards the to}>, with a square area on each side loosely pavod with pebble stones, under which the bones of the chiefs are buried. At a little distance from the end nearest the sea is the jilace where the sacri- fices are offered ; which, for a con- Biderable extent, is also loosely paved. There is liere a very large sc.diold, or "whatta," on which the offerings of fraits and other vegetables are laid. COOKS VOYAGES. [Vot.III.B.III.Ch.IL But the animals are deposited on a smaller one, already mentioned, and the human sacrifices are buried under different parts of the pavement. There arc several other relics which ignorant superstition had scattered about this place ; such as small stones, raised in different parts of the pavement, some with bits of cloth tied round them, others covered with it ; and upon the side of the large pile which fronts the area are placed a great many pieces of carved wood, which are supposed to be sometimes the residence of their divinities, and consequently held sacred. But one place, more particu- lar than the rest, is a heap of stones, at one end of the large "whatta," before which the sacrifice was offered, with a kind of platform at one side. On this are laid the skulls of all the human sacrifices, which are taken up after they have been several months under ground. Just above them are placed a great number of the pieces of wood ; and it was also here where the "maro" and the other bundles supposed to contain the god "Ooro" (and which I call the ai^) were laid during the ceremony, a circumstancA which denotes its agreement with the altar of other nations. It is much to be regretted that a practice so horrid in its own nature, and so destructive of that inviolable right of self- preservation which every one is born with, should be found still existing ; and (such is the power of superstition to counteract the first principles of humanity !) existing amongst a people in many other re- spects emerged from the brutal man- ners of savage life. "What is still worse, it is probable that these bloody rites of worship are prevalent throughout all the wide extended Islands of the Pacific Ocean. The similarity of cus- toms and language which our late voyages have enabled us to trace be- tween the most distant of these islands, makes it not unlikely that some of the most unportant articles of their religious institutions should agree. And, indeed, we have the most aa- theutio information that human sacri- fices continue to be offered at thi k Sept. 1777.] HKMARKS 0"^ BAT?RAT?OUS CERFMONTF.S. ]83 I Friendly Islands. "When I described the "Natche" at Tongntahoo, I men- tioned tliat, on the appronching stvjnfl of that festival, we hail been tuld thn*^ ten men were to be sanrilicod. Thi.sin.iy give us an idea of iW extent of this religious massacre in that island. And though we should suppose that never more than oiki person is saeriliced on any single occasioii at OUiheite, it is more than probable that these occa- sions happen so frequently as to make a shocking waste of the linman race ; for I counted no less than forty-niiic sknlls of fonncr victims lying before the "morai " where we saw one more added to the number. And as none of those skulls had as yet sulfcjed any considerable chnnge from the weather, it may hence be inferred that no great length of time had elai)sed since ;it least this considerable number of un- happy wretches had been offered upon this altar of blood. The custom, though no considera- tion can make it cease to be abomin- able, might bethought less detrimental in some respects if it served to ini])ress any awe for the Divinity, or reverence for religion, upon the minds of the multitude. But this is so far from being the case, that though a great number of people had assembled at the "moral" on this occasion, tliey did not seem to show any pro{)(;r reverence for what was doing or sny- ing during the celebration of the rites. And Omai happening to arrive after they had begun, many of the spec- tators flocked round him and wore engaged the remainder of the time in making him relate some of his adviMi- tures, which tliey listened to with great attention, regardless of the solemn offices performing by their priests. Indeed, the priests them- selves, exc(>pt the one who chielly repeatoil the prnyeis, either from their being familiarised to such objects, or from want of confidence in the efficacy of their institutions, observed very little of that solemnity which is nec(!S- sary to give to religious performances their due weight. Their dress was only an ordinary one ; they conversed together without scruple ; and the only attempt made by them to preserve any appearance of decency was by exerting their authority to prevent the people from coming upon the very sjiot where the ceremonies were ])erformed, and to sutler us as .str:tngers Ici iidvance a little forward, 'fhey were, however, very cundid in their answers to any questions that were put to them con- cerning the inslilution ; and particu- larly on being asked what the intention of it wa-s. They said that it was an old custom, and \\iis agreeable to their god, who delighted in, or in other words came and fed upon, the sacri- fices ; in consequejiee of which he complied with their petitions. Upon its being objected that he could not feed on these, as he was neither seen to do it, nor were the bodies of the animals quickly consumed ; and that as to the human victim they pre- vented iiis feeding on him by burying him : to iill this they answered, that he came in the ni.j;ht, but invisibly ; and fed only on the soul or immaterial pai't, which ace.oiding lo their doctrine rem^^iins about the place of sacrifice until the body of the victim bo entirely wasted by piitrei'action. It were much to be wished that this deluded peo[)le may learn to entertain the .same horror of murdering their fellow-creatures, in order to furnish such an invisible banrpiet to their god, as they now have of feeding corporeally on human flesh themselves. And yet wo have gieat reason to believe that there was a time when they were can- nibals. "We wcie tohi (and indeed partly saw it) that it if a necessary ceremony, when a poor wretch is sacrificed, for th-a priest to take out the left eye. This he presents to the king, holding it to his mouth, which he desires him to o[)en ; but instead of putting it in, immediately with- draws it. This tijev enil " eatinj' the man,' or "food for tlie chief;" and ]>i'rliaps we may observe here some traces of foi'iner times, when the dead lnjdy was really feasted upon. Hut, not to insist upon this, it is certain that human sAerifices ivv not the only barbarous custom we find still prevail- "r.fj amongst this benevnlont, humanrt !' it I- : i' 'I ■ !i < 1"^ ■ . I ii 11 i 184 people. For besides cutting out the law-bones of thoir enemies slain in Dattle, which they carry about as trophies, they in some measure olFer their dead bodies as a sacrifice to the "Eatooa." Soon after a battle in which they have been victors, they collect all the dead that have fallen into their hands, and bring them to the "morai," where with a great deal of ceremony they dig a Lole and bury them all in it, as so many offerings to the gods ; but their skulls are never after taken up. Their own great chiefs that fall in battle are treated in a different man- ner. We were informed that their late King Tootaha, Tubourai-tamaide, and another chief who fell with them in the battle, fought with those of Tiaraboo, and were brought to this *' morai," at Attahooroo. There their bowels were cut out by the priests before the great altar ; and the bodies afterward buried in three different places, which were jKjinted out to us, in the great pile of stones that com- pose the most cons]»icuous part of this "morai." And their common men who also fell in this battle were all buried in one hole at the foot of the pile. This Omai, who was present, told me was done the day after the battle, with much pomp and cere- mony, and in the midst of a great concourse of [)eople, as a thanksgiving offering to the " Eatooa," f« the vic- tory they had obtained ; iiile the vanquished had taken re ^^e in the mountains. There they lemained a week or ten days, till the fury of the victors was over, and a treaty set on hot by which it was ngieed that Otoo should be declared King of the whole island ; and the solemnity of invest- ing him with the "maro" was per- formed at the same "morai," with great pomp, in the presence of aU the principal men of the country. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Toy. III. B. III.Ch. II L CHAPTER 111. The close of the very singiilar scene exhibited at the "moral, which I have faithfully described in the laal Chapter, leaving us no other business in Attahooroo, wo embarked about noon in order to return to Matavai, and in our way visited Towha, who had remained on the little island where we met him the day before. Some conversation passed between Otoo and him on the present posture of public affairs, and then the latter solicited me once more to join them in their war against Eimeo. By my positive refusal I entirely lost the good graces of this chief. . . . On the 14th, a party of us dined ashore with Omai, who gave excellent fare, consisting offish, fowls, pork, and pudiUngs. After dinner, I attended Otoo, who had been one of the party, back to his house, where I found all his servants very busy getting a quantity of provisions ready for me. Amongst other articles there was a large hog, which they killed in my presence. The entrails were divided into eleven portions, in such a man- ner that each of them contained a bit of everything. These portions were distributed to the servants, and some dressed theirs in the same oven with the hog, while others carried off un- dressed what had come to their share. There was also a large jmdding, the whole process in making which 1 saw. It was composed of bread-fruit, ripe plantains, taro, and palm, or Pan- dantis, nuts, each rasped, scraped, or beat up fine, and baked by itself. A quantity of juice expressed from cocoa-nut kernels was put into a large tray or wooden vessel. The otlier articles, hot fl-ora the oven, were de- posited in this vessel, and a few hot stones were also put in, to make the contents simmer. Three or four men made use of sticks to stir the several ingredients, till they were incoqio- rated one with another, and the juice of the cocoa-nut was turned to oil ; so that the whole mass at last became of the covisistency of a hasty-pudding. Some of these puddings are excellent, and f(!W that we malce in England etj^ual them. 1 seldom or never dined without one when I could get it, which was not always the cane. Otoo's hog REMARKABLE PRESENT OP CLOTH. 185 10- ica so of ut, ind led ich log Sept. 1777.] being baked, and the pudding which I h& ner. When we arrived ut the placo, the body was nnder cover and wrap' . (1 tvj -^A I hi 186 pod up in cloth within the "toopa- paoo ;" but at my deairo the man wlio COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY.TIT.B.in.Cn.III. death are preserved in tliis manner; had the care of it brought it out and laid it u])ou a kind of bier, in such a manner tliat we had as full a view of it as we could wish ; but we wore not allowed to go within the pales that enclosed the " toopapaoo." After he had thus exhibited the corpse, he hung the place with mats and cloth, ■o disposeil as to produce a very pretty elfect. We found the body not only entire in every ]>art, but what surprised us much more, was that putrefaction seemed scarcely to be begun, as there was not the least disngreeable smell proceeding fiom it, though the climate is one of tJie hottest, and Tee had been dead above four months. The only remarkable alteration that had liappened was a shrinking of the lauseular ])arts of the eyes ; but the hair and nails were in their original state, and still adhered firmly; and tlie several joints 'vere quite pliable, or in that kind ol re- laxed state which hap])en3 to persons who faint suddenly. Such were ISIr Anderson's remarks to me, who also told me, that on his inquiring into the method of etfccting this preserva- tion of their dead l)odies, ho nad been informed that soon after their death they are disembowelled by drawing the intestines and other viscera out at the anus, and tlie whole cavity is then filled or stufi'ed with cloth intro- duced through the same part ; that when any moisture appeared on the skin it was carefully dried up, and the bodies afterward rubbed all over with a large quantity of perfumed cocoa-nut oil, wliich being frequently repeated, preserved them a great many months, but at last they gi-a- dually moulder away. This was the information Mr Anderson received ; for my own part I could not learn aty more about their mode of opera- tion than what Omai told me, who said that they made use of the juice of a plant which gi'ows amongst the mountains ; of cocoa-nut oil ; and of ft-equent washing with sea-water. 1 was also told that the bodies of all their great men who died a natural and that they expose them to public view for a considerable time after. At first they are laid out every day wlien it does not rain, afterwards the intervals become greater and greater, and at last they are seldom to be seen. In the evening we returned from Oparee, where wo left Otoo and all the royal family ; and I saw none of them till the I'ith, when all but the chief himself paid me a visit. He, as they told me, was gone to Atta- hooroo to assist this day at another human sacrifice which the chief of Tiaraboo had sent thither to be offered up at the '* moral. " This second instance within the course of a few (lays was too mehiticholy a ])roof how numerous the victims of this bloody suiierstition are amongst this himiane p*>oj»le. I would have been present at this sacrifice too had I known of it in time, for now it was too late. From the very same cause I missed being present at a public transaction which liad passed at Oparre the pre- ceding day, wlien Otoo, with all the solemnities observed on such occa- sions, restored to the friends and fol- lowers of the late King Tootaha the k/ids and possessions wliich had been withheld from them ever since his death. Probably the new sacrifice was the concluding ceremony of what may bo called the reversal of attainder. The following evening Otoo returned from exercising this most disagreeable of all his duties as Sovereign; and the next day, being now honoured with his company, Captain Gierke and I, mounted on horseback, took a ride round the plain of Matavai, to the very great suiiirise of a great train of people who attended on the occasion, gazing upon us with as much astonish- ment as if we had been Centaurs. Omai, indeed, had once or twice be- fore this attempted to get on horse- back, but he had as often been thrown off before he could contrive to seat himself; so that this was the first time they had seen anybody ride a horse. What Captain Clerke and I began was after this repeated every Sept. 1777.7 AVIMALS <>IVEN TO OTOO. U7 the lish- urs. be- )rse- own seat first c a d I ery day while wo stayed, by one or anot lier of our jx-ople, and yet t)ie 'ni >si-y of the niilivoscontinuedstill uiid »ivtL'id at* far as I could judge tlfy conveyefl to them a better idea of tJie trrcutir's* vel- ties put together that ti.^-n- Euiopean visitors had carried uuiougat them. Both the horse and mare were in good case, and looked extremely well. The next day, Etary or 011a, the god of Bolabola, who had for se\efal days past been in the neighbourhood of Matavai, removed to Oparro, at- tended bv several sailing canoes. We were told that Otoo did not ay^prove of his being so near our aia; >ti, where his people could more easily invade our j)roperty. I must do Otoo the justice to say that he toDk every method prudeiioe could suggest to prevent thefts and robberies; and it was more owing to his regulations than to our circumspection that so few were committed. He liad taken care to erect a little house or two on the other side of the river behind our post, and two others close to our tents on the bank between the river and the sea. In all these places some of his own people constantly kept watch, and his father generally resided on Matavai Poiut, so that we were in a manner surrounded by them. Thus stationed, they not only guarded us in the night from thieves, but <;ould observe everything that passed in the day, and were ready to collect contri- butions from such girls as had private connections with our people, which was generally done every morning. So thai the measui>;3 adopted by tiim to secure our safety ' the same time served the more et senti:ii purpose of enlarging his own profit •. Otoo in- forming me that iua pt'esence was necessary at Oparre, where ho was to give audi ." nee to the great personage from Bolabola, and asking me to ac- company him, I readily consented in hopes of meeting with something worth our notice. Accordingly I went with him in the morning of the 16th, att^fi'l'd by Mr Andorson. Nothirx, Jiowevor, occurred <>u this ow'caair.« that was either intert'sting or ^Mious, We saw F-tary and his .//•lowers present Homn coarse cloth Slid hogs to Ot. ">, and each article was delivcrod «ith soin^ cereinDny and a >»«t speech. After this, they and grjji* dlifr chiefs hold a cunaul- tilion aik«nl the I'xiiodition to Kimeo. fctrtry atllrst aicm.d to disapprove ot vt, but «t lt\si his objections writ ovemdod. Indeed it a]»peared next d;iy that it was too late to deliberalo ar.out tins measure; and that Towha, Potatou, and another thief had already gone upon the expeiiition, with the lleet of Attahooroo. For a messenger Hirivfxl in t}ie evening with intelli- f^;f^Tice that they had reached Eimeo, and that there had been some skir- mishes without much loss or advan- tage on either side. In the morning of the 18th Mt Anderson, myself, and Omai went again with Otoo to Oparre, and took with us the sheep which I intended to leave upon the island, consisting of an English ram and ewe and three Cape ewes, all which I gave to Otoo. As all the three cows hail taken the bull, I tho\ight 1 might venture to divide them and carry some to Ulie- tca. AVith this view I had them brought before us, and proposed to Etary that if he would leave his bull with Otoo, he should have mine and one of the tliree cows, adding that I would carry them for him to Ulietea ; for I was afraid to remove the Spanish bull, lest some accident should hap- pen to him, as he was a bulky, spirited bea.st. To this proposal of mine Etary at first nuide some objections, but at last agreed to it, partly through the perviasion of Omai. However, just ax the cattle were putting into the boat, one of Etary's followers valiantly opposed any exchange whatever being made. Finding this, and suspecting that Etary had only consented to the proposed arrangement for tlu ^^rCuent moment to please me, and that after I was gone he might take away hia bull, and then Otoo would not have one, I thought it best to drop the "^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 11.25 ■ 1^ 1^ ■^ 12.2 m 1.4 11.6 6" (^ m A '^ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation V ^ [V ■1>' \\ :." WfST MAIN STREET WEttSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 872-4503 v\ ■Tl V 188 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY.III.B.IILCn.lIL ! I I I m-- \ i , 1 - 1 S i 1 i 1 i ,1 i 1 J f ♦ 1 J : bl ^ idea of an exchange, as it could not be mado with the mutual consent of both parties, and finally determined to leave them all with Otoo, strictly enjoining him never to sulfer them to be lemoved from Oparre, not even the Spanish bull, nor any of the ■heep, till he sliould get a stock of young ones, which he might thon dispose of to his friends, and send to the neighbouring islands. This being settled, we left Etary and his i>arty to ruminate upon their folly, and attended Otoo to anotlier place hard by, where we found the servants of a chief whose name I for- got to ask, waiting with a hog, a pig, and a dog, as a present from their master to the Sovereign. These were delivered with the usual ceremonies, and with an barangiie in form in which the speaker in his master's name inquired after the health of Otoo and of all the principal people about him. This compliment was echoed back in the name of Otoo by one of his ministers, and then the dispute with Eiineo was discussed, with many arguments for and against it. The deputies of this chief were for prosecuting the war with /igour, and advised Otoo to offer a human sacrifice. On the other hand, a chief who was in conistant attendance on Otoo's person opposed it, seemingly with great strength of argument. This confirmed me in the opinion that Otoo himself never entered heartily into the spirit of this war. He now received repeated messages from Towha strongly soliciting him to hasten to his assistance. We were told that his fleet was in a manner surrounded by that of Mahciue, but that neither the one nor the other durst hazard an engagement. After dining with Otoo, we returned to Matavai, leaving him at Oparre. This day, and also the 19th, we were very sparingly supplied with fruit. Otoo liearing of this, ho and his brother, who had attached himself to Captain Clerke, came from Oparie between 9 and 10 o'clock in the even- ing with a large supply for both ships. TiUB marked his humane attention more strongly than anything he had hitherto done for us. The next day all the royal family came with pre* sents, so that our wants were not only relieved, but we had more pro- visions than we could consume. Having got all our water on board, the ships being calked, the rigging overhauled, and everything put in order, I began to think of leaving the island, that 1 might have sulh- cient time to spare for visiting others in this neighbourhood. With this view we removed from the shore onr observatories and instruments, and bent the sails. Early the next mom* ing Otoo came on board to acquaint me that all the war canoes of Matavai and of the three other districts ad- joining were going to Oparre to join those belonging to that part of the island, and that there would be a general review there. Soon after the squadron of Matavai was all in motion, and, after parading a while about the bay, assemlilcd ashore near the middle of it. 1 now went in my boat to take a view of them. Of those with sUtges on which they fight, or what they call their war-canoes, there were about sixty, with near as many more of a smrJler size. I was ready to have attended them to Oparre, bu'i soon after a resolution was taken by the chiefs that they should not move till the next day. I looked upon this to be a fortunate delay, as it afforded me a good opportunity to gut some insight into their manner (>f fighting. With this view I expressed my wish to Otoo that he would order some of them to go through the necessary manoeuvres. Two were accordingly ordered out into the bay, in one of which Otoo, Mr King, and t yself embarked, aiul Omai went on board the other. When we had got suffi- cient sea-room, we faced and advanced ujwn each other, and retreate J MOCK FIGHT OF Otoo stood by the side of our statue, and gave the necessary orders when to advance and when to retreat. In this groat judgment and a quick eye combined together seemed reciuisito to seize every advantage that might ofler, and to avoid giving any advan- tage to the adversary. At last, after advancing and retreating from eacii other at le.ist a dozen times, the two canoes closed, head to head or stage to stage; and after a short coutlict the troops on our stage were supposed to be all killed, and we were boarded by Omai and his associates. At that very instant Otoo and all our paddlers leaped overboard, as if reduceil to the necessity of endeavouring to save their lives by swimniiiig. If Omai's information is to be de- pended u|>on, their naval engagements are not always conducted in this man- ner. He told me that they sometimes begin with lashing the two vessels together, head to head, and then fight tiU all the warriors are killed on one side or the other. But this close com- bat, I apprehend, is never jtractised but when they are determined to con- quer or die. Indeed, one or the other must happen, for all agree that they never give quarter, unless it bo to reserve their prisoners for a more cruel death the next day. The power and strength of these islands lie entirely in their navies. I never heard of a general engagement on land, and all their decisive battles are fought on the water. If the time and place of con- flict are fixed upon by both parties, the preceding day and night are spent in diversions and feasting. Toward morning they launch the canoes, put everythmg in order, and with the day begins the battle, the fate of which generally decides the dispute. The vanquished save themselves by a precipitate flight, and such as reach the shore fly with their friends to the mountains, for the victors, while their fury lasts, spare neither the women, nor children. The next AVAR CANOl=:S. ]89 thoy have any. After this a treaty ia set on foot, and the conquerors for the most part ol)tain their own terms, by which particular districts of lan«l, and sometimes wliole islands, change their owners. Omai told us that ca was once taken a prisoner by the men of Bolabola, and carried to that island, where he ami some others would have been put to death the next day if they had not found means to escajje in the night As soon as this mock-fight wa« over, Omai put on his suit of armour, mounted a stage in one of the canoes, and was paddled all along tbn shore of the bay, so tliat every one had a full view of him. His coat of mail did not draw the attention of his countrymen so much as Tuight have been expected. Some of them, indeed, had seen a part of it before ; and there were others, again, who had taken such a dislike to Omai, from his im- prudent conduct at this place, that they would hardly look at anything, however singular, that wm exhibited by him. day they assemble at the *' moral," to return thanks to the " Eatooa " for the victory, and to offer up the slain an iMinrifices, and the prisoners also if CHAPTER IV. F.ARLT in the morning of the 22d, Otoo and his father came on board to know when I proposed sailing. For having been informed that there was a good harbour at Eimeo, I had told them that I should visit that island on my way to Huaheine; and they were desirous of taking a passage witn me, and of their fleet sailing at the time to reinforce Towha. As I was ready to take my departure, I left it to them to name the day; and the Wednesday following was fixed upon, when I was to take on board Otoo, his father, mother, and in short the whole family. These points being settled, I proposed setting out immediatfly for Oparre, where all the fleet fitted out for the expedition was to assemble this day and to be reviewed. 1 had but just time to get into my boat when news was brought Umt Towha had concluded a treaty with Vl ' i ! lyo Maheine, ana hnd retunifil with his fleet to Attuhooroo. This unexiKJcted event made all further proceeding in the military way quite unnecessary; and the war-canoes, instead of reiidcz- vousing at Oparre, were ordered home to their respective districts. This alteration, however, did not hinder me from following Otoo to Oparro, accompanied by Mr King and Omai. Soon after our arrival, and whilediuner Wiis preparing, a njcsscn.ijer arrived frt»m Einieo and related the conditions of tiie i>eace, or rather of tlie truce, it being only for a limited time. The terms were disadvanta^'eous to Ota- lieito, and much blame was thrown upon Otoo, whose delay in sending reinforcements had obliged Towha to submit to a disgraceful acconimoda tion. It was even currently reported that Towha, resenting his not being supported, had declared that &s soon as I could leave the island ae would join his forces to those of Tiuraboo, and attack Otoo at J^Iatavai or Opaire. Tliib called upon nie to declare in the most i»ublic manner tl^at I was deter- mined to espouse the interest of my friend against any such combination, and that whoever presinned to attack him should feel the weiglit of my heavy displeasure when I returned again to their island. My declaration probably had the desired effoct, and if Towha had any such hostile intention at lir.st, we soon heard no more of the rcpurt. Whappai, OtDo's father, highly dis- approved of the peace, an»l blamed Towha very much for concluding it. This sensible old man wisely judged that my goin«j down with them to Eimeo must have been of singular service to their cause, though I should take no other part whatever in the quarrel. And it was upon this that he built his arguments, and main- tained that Otoo had acted proi>erly by waiting for me, though this had prevented his giving assisUmce to Towha so soon as he expected. Onr debates at Oparre on this sub- ject were hardly ended before a mes- Mnger arrived from Towha, desiring Otoo's attendance the next day at the ** moral " in Attahooroo, to give COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. B. III. Ch. IV. thanks to the gods for the peace ho had concluded ; at least such waa Omai's account to me of the object of this solemnity. I was asked to go, but being nmch out of order was ob- liged to decline. Desirous, however, of knowing what ceremonies might be observed on so memorable an occ^ision, I sent Mr King and Omai, and returned on board my ship, attended by Otoo's mother, his three sisters, and eight more women. At first I thought that this numerous t'^ain of females came into my boat wfJi no other view than to get a passage to Matavai. Hut when we arrived at the ship they told me they in'^ended jtassing the night on board for the express pur|>ose of undeitaking the cure of the disorder I complained of, which was a pain of the rheumatic kind extending from the hi]) to the foot. I accepted the friendly olfer, had a bed spread for them ui)on the cabin Hoor, and sub- mitted myself to their directions. Iwaa desired to lay myself down amongst them. Then as many of tliem aa could get round me be,t;aii to s(pjeez« me with both hands hum head to foot, but more particularly on the jiarts where the pain was lodged, till ihey made niy bones crack and ray llesli became a perfect mummy. In short, after undergoing this discipline about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to get away from them. How- ever, the operation gave me immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit to another rubbing-ilown before I went to bed ; and it was so elfi^ctual that 1 found myself pretty easy all the night after. &Iy female physicians repeated their prescription the next morning before they went ashore, and again in the evening when they ro- tuined on board, after which I found the i>ains entirely removed ; and the cure being perfected, they took theii leave of me the following morning. This they call " romce," an operation which in my opinion far exceeds the flesh-brush, or anything of the kind that we make use of externally. It is universidly practised amongst theae islanders, being sometimes performed by the men, but more generally by Lorning. leratiou eds the le kind lly. It sttheM rformed ally by Sept. 1777.] FKESKIfT TO OMAI the woii'.-'ri. If at nny tiiiio one aji- pears languid and tired, Jiiul sits down hv any one of thcni, they im- mediately hegin to ]irnctisi' the " roinee " upon his legs ; ami I have always found it to have an exceeding good effect. . . . [On the 27th] I accomManied Otoo toOparre; and before 1 lelt it 1 looked at the cattle and poultry which I find con.signed to my friend's care at that place. Evervtliiiij» was in a promising way, and properly attended to. Two of the geese and two of the ducks were sitting ; but the pea and turkey hens had not begun to lay. I got from ()too four goats, two of whi(;li I intended to leave at Ulietoa, where none had as yet been introduced ; and the other two I proj»osed to reserve for the use of any other islands I might meet with in my passage to the north. Our friend Omai got one good thing at this island for the many good tilings he gave away. This was a very fine double sailing canoe, completely equipped, and fit for the sea. Some time before 1 had made up for him a suit of English colours ; but he thought these too valuable to be u.sed at this time, and patched u}) a parcel of colours, such as flags and pendants, to the number of ten or a dozen, which he spread on dilferent parts of this vessel all at the same time, and drew together as many people to look at her as a man-of-war would, dressed, in a European port. These streamers of Omai were a mixture of English, French, Spanish, and Dutch, which were all the European colours that he had seen. When I was last at this island, 1 gave to Otoo an English jack and pendant, and to Towha a [len- dant ; which I now found they had preserved with the greatest care. Omai had also provided himself with a good stocli of cloth and cocoa-nut oil, which are not only in greater plenty, but much better, at Otuheite than at any of the Society Islands, irsomuch that they are articles of trade. Omai would not have behaved •o inconsistently, and so much unlike himaelf as he did in many instances, OF A WAR CANOE. lUl but for his sister and brother-in-law, who, together with a few more of their acquaintance, engrossed him entirely to themselves, with no other view than to strip him of every tiling he had got. And they would undoubtedly nave succeeded in their .scheme, if 1 h;vd not put a stop to it in time, by taking the most useful articles of his pro])erty into my posses.sion. B>it evr'n this would not have saved Omai from ruin, if I had suflered these rela- tions of his to have gone with or to have followed us to his intended place of settlement, llu.ilieine. This they had inteiuled, l)Ut I disappointed their further views of plunder by forbid- ding them to show themselves in that island while I remained in the neigh- bourhood ; and they knew mc too well not to comply. On tln^ 28th Otoo came on board, and inf'iirmed me that he had got a canoe, v/hich he desired I would take with me, and carry home as a ]»resent from him to the " Earco rahie no Tre- tane;" it being the only thin«(, he said, that he could send worth his Majesty's accefitanee. I was not a little pleased with Otoo for this mark of his gi-.ititude. It was a thought entirely his own, not one of us having given him the least hint about it ; and it showed that he fully understood to whom he was indebted for the most valuable presents that he had received. At first I thought that this canoe had been a model of one of their vessels of war ; but 1 so jnds for a present or 8up])ly whe. /re could not get our wants relieved by any other method ; and therefore, upon the whole, this way of traffic was full as advantageous to us as to the natives. For the most part, I paid for each separate article as I received it, except in my intercourse with Otoo. His presents generally came so fast upon me, that no account was kept between us. Whatever he asked for that I could spare, he bad whenever he asked for it ; and I alwavs found him moder- ate in his demtnos. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot.III.B.III.Ch.IV. If 1 could have prevailed ui)on Oinai to fix himself at Otaheite, I should not have left it so soon as 1 did. For there was not a probability of our being better or cheaper sup. plied with refreshments at any othei place than we continued to be here even at the time of our leaving it. Besides, such a cordial friendship and confidence subsisted between ns and the inhabitants as could hardly be expected any where else ; and it was a little extraordinary that this friendly intercourse had never once been sus- pended by any untoward accident, nor had there been a theft committed that deserves to be meationed. Not that I believe their morals in this respect to be much mended, but am ratner of opinion that their regularity of conduct was owing to the fear the chiefs were under of interrupting a traffic which they might consider as the means of securing to themselves a more considerable share of our com- modities than could have been got by plunder or pilfering. Indeed, this }M)int I settled at the first interview with their chiefs after my arrivah For observing the great plenty that was in the island, and the eagerness of the natives to possess our various articles of trade, 1 resolved to make the most of these two favourable cir- cumstances, and explained myself in the most decisive terms that 1 would not suffer them to rob us as they had done upon many former occasions. In this Oinai was of great use, as 1 instructed him to point out to them the good consequences of their honest conduct, and the fatal mischiefs they must expect to suffer by deviating from it. It is not always in the powei of the chiefs to prevent robberies ; they are frequently robbed themselves, and complain of it as a great evil. Otoo left the most valuable things he had from me in my possession till the day befoTi: we sailed; and the reason he gave for it was that tho^ were no- where so safe. Since the bringing-in of new riches, the inducements to pilfering must have increased. The chiefs, sensible of this, aie naw ex- tremely desirous of chests. They Sept. 1777.1 ACCOUNT OP THE seemed to set mnch . alue upon a few the Spaniards had left amongst them ; and they wore continually asking us for some. I had one made for Otoo, the dimensions of which, according to his own directions, were eight feet in length, five in breadth, and about three in depth. Locks and bolts were not a sulficient security ; but it must be large enough for two people to sleep upon, by way of guarding it in the night. It will appear a little extraordinary that we, who had a smattering of their language, and Omai besides for an interpreter, could never get any clear account of the time when the Spun- ianis arrived, how long they stayed, and when they departed. The more we inquired into this matter, the more we were convinced of the inability of most of these people to remember or note the time when past events happened; especially if it exceeded ten or twenty months. It, however, appeareu by the date of the inscrip- tion upon the cross, and by the iu- fonnation we received from the most intelligent of the natives, that two 8hii»s arrived at Oheitepeha in 1774, soon after I left Matavai, which was in May the same year. They brought with them the house and five stock before mentioned. Some said that after landing these things, and some men, they sailed in quest of me and returned in about ten days. But 1 have some doubt of the trutli of this, as they were never seen either at Huaheine or at Ulietea. The live stock they left here consisted of one bull, some goats, hogs, and dogs, and the male of some other animal ; which we afterward found to be a ram, and at this time was at Bolabola, whither the bull was also to have been trans- ported. The hogs are of a large kind, have already greatly improved the breed originally found by us upon the island, and at the time of our late arrival were very numerous. Goats are also in tolerablo plenty, there being hardly a chief of any note that has not some. As to the dogs that the Spaniards put ashore, which are of two or three aorts, I think they SP.WLSH K.XI'EDITIOV 113 would have done the island a great deal more service if they had hanged them all, instead of leaving them ui)on it. It was to one of them that my young ram fell a victim. When tlicse ships left the islands four Spaniards remained behind. Two were priests, one a servant, and the fonitli made himself very popular among the natives, who distingui!»h him by the name of Mateema. Ha seems to have been a person who had studied their langtm^'e, or at least to have spoken it so as to be understood ; and to have taken uncommon pains to impress the minds of the islanders with the most exulted ideas of the greatness of the Spi aish nation, and to make them think meanly of the English. He even went so far as to assure them that we no longer existed as an indei^cndent' nation ; that " Pretane" was only a small island which they (the Spaniards) had entirely destroyed; and for me, that they had met with me at sea, and with a few sliot had sent my ship and every soul in her to the bot- tom, so that my visiting Otaheite at this time was of course very unex- pected. All this and many other improbable falsehoods did this Span- iard make these people believe. If Spain had no other views in this ex- pedition but to de[)reciate the English they had better have kept their ships at home ; for my returning again to Otaheite was considered as a complete confutation of all that Mateema had said. With what design the priests stayed we can only guess. If it was to con* vert the natives to the Catholic faith, they have not succeeded in any one instance. But it does not appear that they ever attempted it; for, if the natives are to be believed, they never conversed with them either ob this or on any other subject. The priests resided constantly in the house at Oheitepeha; but Mateema roved about, visiting most parts of the island. At length, after he and his companions had stayed ten monthi, two ships came to Oheiteneha, took them on board, and sailea again ia N '!=3P' n i I I i i 194 COOK'S V fiveday«. Thisliasty dojtarturcsliuw.s that wliatcvor dcsi^^Mi tin; Spaniards might liave liad upon this island, they had now laid it usido. Ami yet, as I was inrunnod hy Otoo and ninny others, belore they went iiw.iy tiny would have tlic natives helieve that tluiy still meant to return, and In bring with them houses, all kinds of animals, and men and wonn'n who were to settle, live, and die on the island. Otoo, wdien he told me this, added that if the Spatnards should return he would not let them come to Matavai Fort, which, ho said, was ours. It was easy to see that the idea pleased him, little thinking that the comi)letion of it would at once deprive him of his kingdom and the people of their liberties. Tliis shows with what laeility a settlement might be made at Otaheite ; which, grateful as I am for re])eated good ollices, I hope will never happen. Our occasional visits may in some respects have benefited its inhabitants ; but a ])er- manent estal)lishment amongst th'-m conducted as most Euro]>ean estab- lishments amongst Indian nations have unfortunately been, would, I fear, give them just cause to lament that our ships had ever found them out. Indeea, it is very unlikely that any menaure of this kind slioiild ever be seriously thought of, as it can neither serve the purposes of public ambition nor of private avarice -, and without such inducements 1 may pro- nounce that it will never be under- taken. I have already mentioned the visit that 1 had from one of the two natives of this island who had been cari-ied by the Spaniards to imm. I never saw him afterward; which I rather wondered at, as I had received him with uncommon civility. 1 believe, however, that Omai had ke])t him at a distance from me by some rough usage, jealous that there should be another traveller upon the island who might vie with himself. Our touch- ing at Teneriffe was a fortunate cii- cumstance for Omai, as he prided himself in having visited a place be- loDgiog to Spain as wall m tois man. wri OYAHES. [Vov. III.R. III.Ch. V. I (lid not meet with the other who had returned iioni Lima ; but Cajitain Clerke, who ha 1 seen him, spoke of him as a low fellow, and as a little out of his senses. His own country- men, I found, agreed in the same account of him. In short, these two adveiiturers seeiu'd to be held in no esteem. They had not, indeed, been so fortunate as to return home with such valuable acquisitions of i>ro- jierty as we had bestowed ujion Omai, and with the advantages he reaped from his voyage to England, it must be his own fault if ho should sink into the same state of insigniticance. CHAPTER V. As I did not give up my design of touching at Eimeo, at daybreak in the morning of the 30th, after leaving Otaheite, I stood for tlie north end of the island ; the harbour which I wished to examine being at that part of it. Omai, in his canoe, having arrived there long before us, had tttken some necessary measures to snow us the place. However, we were not without pi'ots, having seve< ral men of Otaheit.6 on board, and not a few women. Not caring to trust entirely to these guides, I sent two boats to examine the harbour; and on their making the signal for safe anchorage, we stood in with the shii)S, and anchored close up to the head of the inlet, in ten fathoms water. We had no sooner anchored than the ships were crowded with the inhabitants, whom curiosity alone brought on board ; for they had nothing with them for the purposes of barter. But the next moniing this dcficieucj" was sup]»licd ; several canoes then arriving from more distant parts, which brought with them abundance of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs. These they exclianged for hatchets, nails, and beads ; for reti feathers were not so much sought after here as at Otaheite. The ship being a good deal i)estered with ratib I hauled her withu thirty yardc oC sign of 'Ocik in leaving ■tl> end I'hich I I at ])art having IS, Iiad res to , we seve- and ig to I sent rl)our ; ml for ith the to the ithoms hored ith the alone had irposos ig this canoes parts, idance a few d for ■or r«(i ought I ship . ratik rdc o( Oifi. 177;.) VISIT FROM the shore, as sear an the depth of water would allow, and made a path for them to got to the land, hy fas- tening hawsers to the trees. It is said that this cx{)eriment has some- times succeeded, Imt I believe wc got clear of very f»!W, if any, of the numer- ous tribe that haunted us. In the morning of the 2d, Maheine, the chief of the island, paid me a visit. He apj»roached the ship with great caution, and it required some tiersiiasion to got him on board, ^robably he was under some a]»])re- hensions of mischief from us as friends of the Otahoiteaus ; these i)eople not being able to comprehencl how we can be friends with any one without adopting at the siime time his cause against liis enemies. Muhoine was accompanied by his wife, who, as I was informed, is sister to Oanio of Otaheite, of whoso death we had an account while we were at this island. I made presents to both of them, of Bucli things as they seemed to set the highest value upon ; and aftar a stay of about half-on-hour they went away. Not long after, they returned with a large hog, which they meant as a re- turn for my present, but I made them another present to the full value of it After this they paid a visit to Captain Gierke. This chief, who, with a few fol- lowers, has made himself in a manner independent of Otalieito, is between ibrty and fifty years old. He is bald-headed, which is rather an un- common appearance in those islands at that age. He wore a kind of turban, and seemed ashamed to show his head ; but whether they them- selves considered this deficiency of hair as a mark of disgrace, or whether they entertained a notion of our con- sidering it as such, I cannot say. We judged that the latter 8up])Ositi on was the truth, from this circumstance, that they had seen us shave the head of one of their peo])le whom we had caught stealing. They therefore con- clmled that this was the punishment usually inflicted by us upon all thieves ; and one or two of our gentle- men, whose heads were not overlmr- MAHKINR. 1D6 thoned with hair, we conid observe, lay under violent suspicions of Uinc '* totns." In the evening, Omai and 1 moiiDted on horseliack, and lrudence as to gain resjicct. Our anding drew most of our visitors from the ships, and they, as well as those that were on shore, assembled in a large house. The concourse of people on this occasion was very great ; and amongst them there appeared to be a greater proportion of personable men and women than we had ever seen in one assembly at any of these new islands. Not only the bulk of the people seemed in general much stouter and fairer than those of Ota- heite, but there was also a much greater number of men who appeared to be of consequence, in proportion to the extent of the island ; most of whom had exactly the corpulent ap> pearance of the ohiafa oi WateeOb Oct. 1777.] OMAIS SPEECH Wo waited some time fur Taireetareea, M I wuuid do uothitii{ till the " Earee rahio " came ; but whcu he apiivanrd I fuuud that hia preseuce ini^ht have been dispensed with, as he was not above eight or ten years of a^e. , Omai, who stood ut a little di.stauce from this circle of ^reat men, lic<;an | with making his oli'cring tu the guds, consisting ut' red feathers, cloth, kc. Then followed another otfering, which was to be given to the gods by the chief, and after that several other small pieces and tufts of reil ftnithers were presented. Each article vais laid before one of the company, who, I understood, was a ]triuht, and was de> livered with a set speech or prayer, spoken by one of Oiaai's friends who •at by hun, but mostly dictutol by himself. In these prayers he did not forget his friends in England, nor those who had brought him safe i»ack. The " Earce rahie no Tretane," Lord Sandwich, "Toote," " Tatee, " » were mentioned in every one of them. When Omni's ofTerings and nraycrs were finished, the priest took each article, in the same order in which it had been laid before him, and after repeating a prayer, sent it to the *'morai," which, as Omai told us, was at a great distance, otherwise the offerings would have been made there. These religious ceremonies having been performed, Omai sat down by me, and wo entered uj>on business by giving the young chief my present, and recAiviniT his in return ; and, all things considered, they were liberal enough on both sides. Some arran;;'^- ments were next a<,'reed upon o^ to the manner of carrying on the inter- course betwixt us; and 1 pointed out the mischievous consequences that would octend their robbing us as they had done during my former visits. Omai's establishment was then pro- posed to the assembled chiefs. He acquainted them " that he had been carried by us into our country, where he was well received by the great King and his ' Earees,' and treated with every mark of r<^rd and affec- ^ Cooke and Gierke. TO THE CHIEFS. 197 tion while he stayed amongst as ; that be had been brought buck again, en* riihea by our liberality with a variety of articles which would prove very useful to his countrymen ; and that, besides the two horses which were to remain with him, several other new and valuable animals had been left at Otaheite, which would soon nmltiply and furnLsh a sutlicient number for the use of all the islands in the uei;;h)Hiurhood. Ho then signified to them that it was my earnest re* quest, in return for all m^ friendly otiiccs, that thcv would give him a piece of land to build a house upon, and to raise provisions for himself and servants, adding that if this could not be obtained for him in Iluaheine, either by gift or by purchase, I was determimd to carry him to Ulietea and tix him there." Perhaps I have here mode a better sfteech for my friend than he actually deliveieii, but these were the toftios I dictated to him. 1 observed that what he concluiled with, about carry- ing him to Ulietea, seemed to meet with the approbation of oil the chiefs, and 1 instantly saw the reason. Omai had, as 1 have already mentioned, vainly flattered himself that I meant to use force in restoring him to his father's lands in Ulietea, and he had talkeon the Bolabola men aa their conqueror. This declaration gave a new turn to the sentiments of the council. One of the chiefs immediately ex* pressed himself to this effect : "That the whole island of Huaheine, a>gi ^y A fortunate connection with us, got into his possession an ac- cumulated quantity of a species oi treasure which none of his country- men could create by any art or in- dustry of their own, while all coveted a share of this envied wealth, it was natural to apprehend that all would be ready to join in attempting to strip its sole proprietor. To prevent this, if possible, I desired nim to make a pro{>er distribution of some of his movables to two or three of the principal chiefs, who, being tliua gratitiod themselves, might be induced to take him under their patronage and protect him from the injuries of others. He promised to follow my advice ; and I heard with satisfaction before I sailed that this very [)rudent step had been taken. Not trusting, however, entirely to the operation of Ot?. 1777.] DAMAGE ffratitmlc, I had rpcnurse to the inoro forc.il>leMi(itivcMit"imiiiii(lati(»ii. U'itli thiH view I toiik very opjioittiiiity of nolifyiii;^' to the iiiliiiliit;iiit!i that it was my intoiilioii to rc^liirii t tht-ii" ihliiinl rt'^iiiii, iifttT htiiit,' iilisciit till UHtiiil titiif, aiitl that if i e im|iri'SSi'il with sorh a notion, whii:h 1 ihuu;,'ht it a fair stratugeiu to eoiilirm, Ouiai has ^ome |»ros|)ect of being ivcnnitteJ to llaivo uiuiu hi.s new {tlantalion.* While wo lay in this harbour we earried ashore the breiul remaining in tho bread-room to clear it of vermin. The number of cock roue lies that in- fested the ship at this time is incred- ible. The damage they did us w:is very considerable, and every method levised by us to destroy tlicm proved ineircctual. These aninnds, which at tirst were a nuisance like all other insects, had now Ixicome a real pest, and 30 destructive that few tilings were free from their ravages. If fooil of any kind was exposed only for a few minutes, it was covered with them ; and they soon pierced it full of holes resembling a boueycomb. They were particularly destructive to birds which had been stiitied and preserved as curiosities, and, what was worse, were uncommonly fond of ink, so that tho writing on the labels fastened to dif- ferent articles and the only was quite eaten out ; thing that preserved books from them was the closeness of the binding, which prevented these devourers getting between the leaves. According to Mr Anderson's observations, they were of two sorts, the Ulalta orientalis and gennanica. DONE BY COCKROACHES. Idq Tho fust of thi so halii( was in dock all the time. Tho oth'.'iH had oidy n-ade their ap. jH'aranro since our leaving New Zea- land, but had in<;reas*'d so fast, that they now not only did all the mischief mentionetl above, but iiad even got anioiiu'st the rigging, so that when a sail WIS lo'isoned ihoiisandsof them fell upon tiiedocks. ' i' ho one ntalc.s, though in infinite numbens, scarcely eamo out but in the night, when they maile everytiiing in the cabins seem as if in motioii from the particular noise in crawling about. And, besides their di.sagieeaoi.. appearance, they diil great mischi-. to our bread, which was so bo«^pi,ttered with their excre- ment that it wotdd have been badly relislit'd liv delicate feeders. Theinti nou I. se of trade and friendly ollices was carried on between us and the mitives without being disturbed by any one accident till the evening of the 2'2d, wiien a man found niean.i to get into Air Hayly's observatory, and to cany olf a sextant unobserved. As soon as I was made ac4|uainted with tho theft, I went ashore and got Omai to apply to tlie chiefs to procure rcstiiutiou. He diil so, but they took no steps toward it, being more attentive to a " haiva " that was then acting, till 1 ordered the performers of the exhibition to desist. They were now convinced that I was in earnest, and began to make some in- quiry after the thief, who was sitting in the midst of them quite uncon- cernod, insomuch that I was in great doubt of hia being the guilty i)ei-sou, especially as he denied it. Omai, however, assuring me that ho was the man, I sent him on board the ship and there couiined him. This raised a general ferment amongst the as- sembled natives, and the whole body iled in spite of all my endeavours to stop them. Having emph)yed Omai * See Xote pt end of Chapter on the sa'beequent fortunes of Omai. to examine the prisoner, with some dilllculty he was brought to confcsa where he had laid the sextant ; but ■\H it was now dark he could not find I l;1 ■'P 200 >; f .) it till daylight tho next morning, when it was brought back unhurt. After this the natives recovered from llieir fright and began to gather about us as usual. Anil as to the th'ef, he appearing to bo a hardened scoundrel, I punished him more severely than I had done any culprit before. Besides having his head and beard shaved, I ordered both his ears to be cut off, and then dismissed him. This, however, did not deter him from giving us further trouble ; for, in the night between the 24tli and 26th, a general alarm was spread, occasioned as was said by one of our goats being stolen by this very man. On examination we found that all was safe in that quarter. Probably the goats were so well guarded that he could not put his design in execution. Hut his hostilities had succeeded against another object, and it appeared that he had destroyed and carried off several vines and cabbage-plants in Omai's grounds ; and he publicly threatened to kill him and to burn his house as soon as we should leave the island. To prevent the fellow's doing me and Omai any more mis- chief^ 1 Imd him seized and confined on board the ship with a view of car- rying him off the island ; and it •eemed to give general satisfaction to the chiefs that I meant thus to dis- pose of him. He was from Bolabola, but there were too many of the natives here ready to assist him in any of his designs whenever he should think of axecuting tliem. I had always met with more troublesome people in Iluaheine than in any other of the neighbouring islands ; and it was only fear, and the want of opportunities, that induced them to behave better now. A narchy seemed to prevail amongst them. Their nominal Sovereign, the " Earee rahie, " as I have before observed, was but a child ; and I did not find that there was any one man, or set of men, who managea the government for him ; so that whenever any misunderstand- ing happened between us, I never knew with sufficient precision where to make application in order to bring •bout an accommodation or to procure COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. III. Ch. VI. redress. The young chief's mother would, indeed, sometimes exert her- self ; but I (lid not i>erceive that she had greater authority than many otliers. Omai's house being nearly finished, many of his movables were carried ashore on the 26th. Amongst a variety of other useless articles was a box of toys, which when exposed to public view seemed greatly to please the gazing multitude. But as to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drinking- mugs, glasses, and the whole train of our douicstic accommodations, hardly any one of his countrymen would so much as look at them. Omai himself no\7began to think that they were of no manner of use to him ; that a baked hoff was more savoury food than a boiled one ; that a plantain-leaf made ai good a dish or plate as pewter ; and that a cocoa-nut shell was as conveni- ent a goblet as a black-jack. And therefore he very wisely disposed of as many of these articles of English furniture for the kitchen and pantry as he could find purchasers for amongst the people of the ships, receiving from them in return hatchets and other iron tools, which had a more intrinsic value in this part of the world, and added more to his distinguishing superiority over those with whom he was to pass the remainder of his days. In the long list of the presents be- stowed upon him in England fire- works had not been forgotten. Some of these we exhibited in the evening of the 28th before a great concourse of people, who beheld them with a mixture of pleasure and fear. What remained after the evening's entertain- ment were put in order and left with Omai, agreeably to their original des- tination. Perhaps we need not lament it as a serious misfortune that the far greater share of this part of his cargo had been already expended in exhibi- tions at other islands, or rendered ue«- less by being ke])t so long. Between midnight and four in the morning of the 30th the Bolabola man whom I had in confinement found means to make his escape out of thi ship. H« caiTied with him tlie shackU Oct. 1777.J ANIMALS LEFT WITH OMAI. 201 of the bilbo-boIt that was about his leg, which waa taken from him as ■oon as he got on shore by one of the chiefs, and given to Omai, who came on board very early in tho morning to acquaint me that his mortal enemy was again let loose upon him. Upon inquiry it apiMjared that not only the sentry placed over the prisoner, but the whole watch upon the quarter- deck where he was confined, had laid themselves down to sleep. He seized the opportunity to take the key of the irons out of the binnacle-drawer, where he had seen it put, and set himself at liberty. This escape con- vinced me that my people had been very remiss in their night-duty, which made it necessary to punish those who were now in fault, and to establish some new regulations to prevent the like negligence for the future. 1 was not a little pleased to hear aflerw of nis house : i i 202 •* Georgiut Terthis Hex, 2 Novembris, 1777. j^ j Resolution, Jae. Cook, Pr. ^^^" \ Discovery, Car. CLerke, Pr:' Ou the 2(1 of November, at four ir; the afternoon, I took the ailvantage of a breeze which then sprung up at E., anil sailed out of the harbour. Most of our friends remained on board till the ships were under sail ; when, to gratifj' their curiosity, I ordered five guns to be fired. They then all took their leave, except Oinai, who re- mained till we were at sea. We had come to sail by a hawser fastened to the shore. In casting the ship it parted, being cut by the rocks, and the outer end was left behind, as those who ca.st it off, did not perceiye that it was broken ; so that it became necessary to send a boat to bring it on boanl. In this boat Oniai went ashore, after taking a very aflectionate farewell of all the officers. He sustained himself with a manly resolution till he came to me. Then his utmost eftbrts to conceal his tears failed ; and Mr King, who went in the boat, told me that he wept all the time in going ashore. It was no small satisfaction to re- flect that we had brought him safe back to the very spot from which he waa taken. And yet such is the strange nature of human alfairs, that it is probable we left him in a less desirable situation than he was in before his connection with us. I do not by this mean that, because he has tasted the sweets of civilised life, he must become more miserable from being obliged to abandon all thoughts of continuing them. I confine myself to this single disagreeable circum- stance, that the advantages he receiv- ed from us have placed him in a more hazardous situation with respect to his personal safety. Omai, from be- ing much caressed in England, lost sight of his original condition, and never considered in what manner his acquisitions either of knowledge or of riches would be estimated by his oountryraen at his return ; which were the only things he could have COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. I II. Cn. VL to recommend him to them now mors than before, and ou which he could build' either his future greatness or haj)pine8s. He seemed even to have mistaken their genius in this re-spcct, and, in some measure to have for- gotten their customs ; otherwi.se he must have known the extreme dilli- culty there would be in getting him- self admitted as a person of rank, where there is ]>erhaps no in.>;tance of a man's being raised from an infer- ior station by the greatest merit. Rank seems to be the very foundation of all distinction here, and of its attendant, power ; and so pertinaci- ously or rather blintUy adhered to, tluit unless a person has some degree of it, he will certainly be despised and hated if he assumes the appear- ance of exercising any authority. This was really the case in some measure with Omai ; though his countrymen were pretty cautious of expi-essing their sentiments while we remained among them. Had he made a propet use of the presents he brought with him from England, this, with the knowledge he had acquired by travel- ling so far, might have enabled him to form the most useful connections. But we have given too many instances, in the course of our narrative, of his childish inattention to this obvious means of advancing his interest. His schemes seemed to be of a highw though ridiculous nature ; indeed I might say meaner ; for revenge, rathw than a desire of l>ecoining great, ap- peared to actuate him from the begin- ning. This, however, may be excused if we consider that it is common to h:«> countrymen. His father was doubtless a man of considerable pro- perty in Ulietea when that island was con([uered by those of Bolabola ; and, with many others, sought refuge in Huaheine, where he died and left Omai with some other children, who by that means became totally depend- ent, lu this situation he was taken up by Captain Furueaux and carried to England. Whether he really ex- pected, from his treatment there, that any assistance would be given him against the enemies of his &ther and was y ex- thai him and Jfov. 1777.] REMARKS ON THE his country, or whether he imagined that his own personal courage and iuporiority of knowlotlge would he Butficieut to dispossess the contiuerora of Ulietea, is uncertain ; but from the beginning of tlio voyage this was ids constant theme. He would not listen to oiir remonstrances on so wiM a detemunatiou ; but Hew into a passion if more juoderate and reasonable coun- sels were proposed for his advantayt;. 'Nay, so infatnated and attached to his favourite scheme was he, that lie alfected to believe these people would ceii;ainly quit the conquered islaml as soon as they should hear of his anival at Otaheite. As wo advc:: ed, however, on our voyage, he became more sensible of his error ; ami by the time we roached the Friendiy Islands had even such apprehensions of his reception at home, that, as I have mentioned in my journal, he would fain have stayed behind at Ton- gataboo under Feenou's protection. At these islands he squandered away much of his European treasure very unnecessarily ; and he was equally im- prudent, as I also took notice of above, at Tiaraboo, where he could have no view of making friends, as he had not any intention of remaining there. At Matavai he continued the same incon- siderate behaviour till I absolutely [)Ut a stop to his profusion ; and he tormed such improper connections there, that Otoo, who was at first much disposed to countenance him, afterward opeiUy expressed his dislike of him on account of his conduct. It was not, however, too late to re- cover his favour ; and he might have settled to great advantage in Otaheite, as he had formerly lived several years there, and was now a good deai noticed by Towha, whose valuable present of a very large double canoe we have aeen above. The objection to admit- ting him to some rank would have also been much lessened if he had ■fixed at Otaheite ; as a native will always find it more difficult to accom- plish such a change of state amongst bis countrymen, than a stranger, who oaturally claims respect. But Omai remained undetermined to the last, CONDUCT OP OMAI. 208 and wouhl not, I believe, have adopted my plan of settlement in Huaheine, if 1 had not so explicitly refused to employ force in restoring him to his father's possessions. Whether the remains of his European wealth, which after all liis imi>roviilent waste was still considerable, will be more pru- dently administered by him, or whether the steps I took to insure him protec- tion in lluaheine shall have proved effectual, must be left to the decision of future navigators of this ocean; with whom it cannot but be a prin- cipal object of curiosity to trace the future fortunes of our traveller. At present I can only conjecture that ins greatest danger will arise fr(»m the very impolitic declarations of his an- tipathy to the inhabitants of Bola- bola. For these people, from s principle of jealousy, will no doubt endeavour to render him obnoxious to those of lluaheine, as they are at peace with that island at present, and may easily etl'ect their designs, many r- of them living there. This is a cir- cumstance which, of all others, 'le might the most easily have avoided. For they were not only free from any aversion to him, but the person men- tioned before, whom we found at Tiaraboo as an ambassador, priest, or god, absolutely offered to reinstate him in the property that was formerly his father's. But he refused thig peremptorily ; and to the very last continued determined to take the first opportunity that offered of satisfying his revenge in battle. To this, 1 guess, he is not a little spurred by the coat of mail he brought from Eng- land ; clothed in which, and in posses- sion of some fire-arms, he fancies that he shall be invincible. Whatever faults belonged to Omai'a character, they were more than over- balanced by his great good-nature and docile disposition. During the whole time he was with me 1 veiy seldom had reason to be seriously dis- pleased with his general conduct . H is grateful heart always retained th« highest sense of the favours he had received in England ; nor will he «v«r forget those who honoured him i ! 11 - ( 204 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. 111. Ch. VII. with their protection and friendship duriug his stay there. He had a tolerable share of understanding, but wanted application and perseverance to exert it ; so that his knowledge of things was very general, and in many instances impeifect. He was not a man of much observation. There were many useful arts, as well as elegant amusements, amongst the people of the Friendly Islands, which he might liave conveyed to his own ; where they probably would have been readily adopted as being so much in their own way. But 1 never found that he quently put me in mind that Lord Siindwich had told him no others of his countrjmicn were to come to England, If there had been the most di.st.int probability of any ship being again sent to New Zealand, 1 would have brought the two youths of that country home with me, as both of them were very dco. rous of continuing with us. Tiarooa, the eldest, was an exceedingly well disposed young man, with strong natural sense, and capable of receiving any instruction. He seemed to be fully sensible of the in- foiiority of his own country to these used the least endeavour to make islands, and resigned himself, though himself master of any one. This kind of indifference is, indeed, the charac- teristic foible of his nation. Euro- peans have visited them at times for these ten years past, yet we could not discover the slightest trace of any attempt to jirofit by this Intercourse ; nor have they hitherto cojiied after us in any one thing. We are not, there- fore, to expect that Omai will be able to introduce many of our arts and customs among them, or much ini- {)rove those to which thi y have been ong habituated. I am confident, however, that he will endeavour to bring to perfection the various fruits and vegetables we planted, which will be no small acquisition. But the greatest benefit these islands are likely to receive from Omai's travels will be in the animals that have been left upon them ; which probably they never would have got had he not come to England. When these multiply, of which I think there is little doubt, Otaheite and the Society Islands will equal, if not exceed, any place in the known world for provisions. Omai's return, and the substantial proofs he brought back with bim of our liberality, encouraged many to offer thems3lves as volunteers to attend me to "Pretane." I took every oppor- tunity of expressing my determination to reject all such applications. But notwithstanding this, Omai, who was Tery ambitious of remaining the only great traveller, being afraid lest I might be prevailed upon to y>at others perhaps with reluctance, to end his days in ease and plenty in Huaheine. But the other was so strongly attached to us, that he was taken out of the ship and carried ashore by force. He was H witty, smart boy , and on that account much noticed on board. ^ CHAPTER VII. The boat that carried Omai ashore, never to join us again, having returned to the ship with the remainder of the 1 " Omai did not live long to enjoy his good fortune ; it does not appear that he had any reason to complain of the rapacity or covetousness of his neighbours. The numerous articles of European manufacture which were in his possession rendered his house a splendid museum of curiosities in the eyes of a South Sea islander ; and it is possible that his pride felt gratified in being thus able to minister to their wonder and admiration. He con- ducted himself prudently, and gained the esteem of his neighbours by the aifability with which he recounted his voyages and adventures. About two years and a half after Captain Cook's departure, Omai died a natural death ; nor did the New Zealanders survive him long enough to furnish European navigatora with an ampler account of the influence which his experience and observations abroad may uave exerted Ui a situation of riyalling him, fro' on his countrymen." Nov. 1777.1 INSTRUCTIONS TO hawser, we hi isted her in and imme- diately stood over for Ulietea, whore I iuteuded to touch next. At 10 o'clock at night we hroiight to till four the next morning, when we made sail round the south end of the island for the harbour of Ohamaneno. We met with calms and light airs of wind from diirorcnt directions by turns, so that at noon we were still a league from the entrance of the harbour. "While we were thus detained, my old friend Oreo, chief of the island, with his son, and Pootoe, his son-in-law, came off to visit us. . . . Though we Vad separated from Omai, we were still near enoi gh to have intelligence of his proceeding ; and I had desired to hear from him. Accordingly, about a fortnight after our arrival at Ulietea he sent two of his people in a canoe, who brought me the satisfactory intelligence that he remained undisturbed by the people of the island, and that everything went well with him, except that his goat had died in kidding. He accompanied this intelligence with a request that 1 would send him another goat and two axes. Being happy to have this additional opportunity of serving him, the messengers were sent back to Hua- heine on the 18th with the axes, and two kids, male and female, which were spared for him out of the Discovery. The next day I delivered to Cajjtain Gierke instructions how to proceed in case of being separated from me after leaving these islands ; and it may not be improper to give them a place here. "By Captain James Cook, Commander f Ilis Majesty's Sloop the Besolu- tion. "Whereas the passage from the Society Islands to the northern coast of America is of considerable length both in distance and in time, and as ft part of it must be performed in the very depth of winter, when gales of wind and bad weather must be ex- pected, and may possibly occasion a separation, you are to take all imagin- able care to prevent this. But if, not- withstanding all our endeavours to keep company, you should be 8eparat(>d CAPTAIN CLEllKK. 205 from me, you are first to look for me where you last saw me. Not seeing me in live days, you arn to proceed (as directed by the instructions of their Lordships, a copy of which you have already received) for the coast of New Albion, endeavouring to fall in with it in the Latitude of 45°. •'In that latitude, and at a con- venient distance from the land, you are to cruise for me ten days. Not seeing me in that time, you are to put into the firat convenient port, in or to the north of that latitude, to recruit your wood and water, and to procure refreshments. "During your stay in port, you are constantly to keep a good look- out for me. It will be necessary, therefore, to make choice of a station situated as near the sea-coast as is possible, the better to enable- you to see me when I shall appear in the offing. "If I do not join you before the 1st of next April, you are to put to sea, and proceed northward to the Latitude 56° ; in which latitude, and at a convenient distance from the coast, never exceeding fifteen leagues, you are to cruise for me till the 10th of May. ** Not seeing me in that time, you are to proceed northward, and endea- vour to find a passage into the Atlantic Ocean, tlirough Hudson's or Baffin's Bays, as directed by the above-men- tioned instructions. *• But if you should fail in finding a passage through either of the said bays, or by any other way, as the season of the year may render it unsafe for you to remain in high latitudes, you are to repair to the harbour of St Peter and St Paul in Kamtsihatka, in order to refresh your people and to pass the winter. " But nevertheless if you find that you cannot procure the necessary re- freshments at the said port, you are at liberty to go where you shall judge most proper ; taking care, before you depart, to leave with the governor an account of your intended destination, to be delivered to me upon my arrival ; and in the spriii; of the eiuuinj^ year, TF \ i ] t \ ■ i H i •■ 1 COOK'S VOYAGES. TPj-air liar.k to the 206 1779, you are to abovo-mnntioned port, endeavouring to be there by the 10th of May, or sooner. " If, OTi your arrival, yen receive no orders from, or account of lue, so aa to justify your pursuing any other measures than what are pointed out in the before-mentioned instructions, your future proceedings are to be governed by them. " You arc also to comply with such Earts of said instructions as have not ocn executed, and are not contrary to these orders. And in case of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, to carry these and the instructions of tlieir Lordships into execution, you are to be careful to Ipave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby required to execute them in the beat manner lie can. ** Given under my hand, on board the Ilesolutioii, at Ulietea, the 18th day of November 1777. "J. Cook. '• To Captain Cfharles Gierke, Commander of His Majesiy't Sloop the Discovery" While we lay moored to the shore, we heeled, and scrubbed both sides of the bottoms of the ships. At the same time, we iixed some tin plates under the binds ; first taking olf the old sheathing, and putting in a piece unfilled, over which the plates wore nailed. These jdntes I had from the ingenious Mr I'elhaui, Secretary to the Commissioners for Victualling his Majesty's Navy, with a view of trying whether tin would answer the same end as copper on the bottoms of ships. On the 24th in the morning 1 was informed that a midshipman and a seaman, both belonging to the Dis- covery, were missing. Soon after, we learned from the natives that thoy went away in a canoe the preceding evening, and were at this time at tiie other end of the island. As the mid- shipman waa known to have expressed a desire to remain at these islands, it »9omed pretty certain that he njid his I and, as soon as they arrived there, [Voy.III.B.ITI.Ch. Hi companion had gone off with this in« tention, and Cujitain Gierke set out in quest of them with two armed boats and a party of innrines. His ex[»edi- tion proved frxiitlcss, for he returned in the evening without having got any certain intelligence where they were. From the conduct of the natives. Captain Clerke seemed to think that they intended to conceal the deserters, and with that view had amused him with false information the whole day, and directed him to search for them in places where they were not to bo found. The captain judged right, for the next morning we were told that our runaways were at Otaha. As these two were not the only persons in the shijjs who wished to end their days at these favourite islands, in order to put a stop to any further desertion it was necessai*y to get them l>ack at all events, and that the natives might be convinced that 1 was in earnest, I resolved to go after them myself, having c'-<-orvea, from repeated instances, that they seldom offered to deceive me wita false infoiraation. Accordingly 1 set out the next morning with two armed boats, being accompanied by the chief himself. I proceeded, as he directed, without stopping anywhere till we came to the middle of the east side of Otaha. There we put ashore ; and Oreo despatched a man before us with orders to seize the deserters and keep them till we should arrive with the boats. But when we got to the place where we expected to find them, we were told that they had quitted this island and gone over to Bolabola the day bof jre. I did not think proper to follo\7 them thither, but returned to the ships, fully determined, how- ever, to have recourse to a measure v.hich 1 guessed would oblige the natives to bring them back. Soon after daybreak the chief, hi* son, daughter, and son-in-law cama on board the Resolution. The three last I resolved to detain till the two deserters should be brought back. With this view Captain Clerke in- vited them to go on board his ship ; M Nov. 1777.1 CONFINEMENT OF THREE OF THE N/ TIVES. 207 eonfined them in his ca1)in. The chief was witli mo when the news reached him. He immediately ac- quainted m*' with it, supposing that tliis stej) had been taken without mj' knowledge and consequently without my approbation. 1 instantly unde- ceived him ; and then lie begjm to have iJjiprehensions as to liis own situation, and his looks expressed the utmost perturbation of mind. But I soon made him easy as to this, by telling him that he was at liberty to leave the ship whenever he pleased, and to tiike such measures as he should judge best calculated to get our two men back; that if he suc- ceeded, his friends on board the Dis- covery should be delivered up ; if not, that ] was determined to carry them away with me. I added that his own conduct, as well as that of many of his people, in not only assisting these two men to escape, but in being even ftt this very time assiduous in enticing others to follow them, would justify uny step I could take to put a stop to such proceedings. This explanation of the motives upon which 1 acted, and whicli we found means to make Oreo and his people who were present fully com- prehend, seemed to recover them in a gieat measure from that general con- sternation into which they were at first thrown. But, if relieved fiom apprehensions about their own safety, they continued under the deepest conceiTi for those who were prisoners. Iflany of them went under the Dis- covery's stern in canoes to bewail their cajjtivity ; which they did with long and loud exclamations. ** Poe- dooa!" for so the chief's daughter was called, resounded from e/cry quarter, «nd the women seemed to vie with each otlier in mourning her fate with more signiiicant expressions of their grief than tears and cries, for there were many bloody heads upon the occasion. Oreo himself did not give way to unavailing lamentations, but instantly began his exertions to re- cover our de^ertera by dispatching a canoe to Bolabola with a message to Opoony, the Sovereign of that island, acquainting him with wliat had hap- pened, and requesting him to seize the two fugitives and send them back. The nu'ss(Mi<;er, who was no less a man than tin- father of Pootoe, Oreo's son-in-law, bel'ure he sot out came to receive my commands. I strictly enjt'ined him not to return without the deserters; and to tell Opoony from me that if they had left Bohi- bola he must send canoes to bring them back ; for 1 susjicctod that thty would not long remain in one place. The consequeiuto, however, of the ]irisoncrs was so great that the natives did not think proper to trust to the return of our j»eopIe for their release ; or at least their imjiaticnce was so great, that it hurried tlieni to make an attempt which might have involved them in still greater distress had it not been fortunately prevented, lie- tween 6 and 6 o'clock in the evening I observed that all their canoes in and about the harbour, began to move off as if some sudden panic had seized them. I was ashore, abreast of the ship at tlie time, and in- quired in vain to find out the cause ; till ovir people called to us from the Discoveiy, and told us that a pai ty of th'j natives had seized Captain Gierke and Mr Gore, who had walked otit a little way from the ships. Struck with the boldness of this plan of retaliation, which seemed to coun- teract me so effectually in my own way, there was no time to deliberate. 1 instantly ordered the people to arm, and in less than five minutes a strong party under the command of Mr King was sent to rescue our two gentlemen. At the same time two armed boats, and a party under Mr Williamson, went after the flying canoes to cut off their retreat to the shore. These several detachments were hardly out of sight before an account arrived that we had been misinformed ; upon which 1 sent and called them all in. It was evident, however, from seve- ral corroborating circumstances, that the design of seizing Captain Gierke had really been in agitation amongst the natives ; nay, they mads no ! 111. f . I ) 1 It ». ; 208 secret in sneaking of it the next day. But their tirst and great plan of oper* ations was to have laid tiold of ino. It WHS my custom eveiy evening to bathe in the fresh water. Very often 1 went alone, and always without arms. Expecting to go as usual this even* ing, they had uetcnnined to seize me, and Captain Clerke too, if he had accompanied me. But I had, after confining Oreo's family, thought it prudent to avoid putting myself in their power ; and had cautioned Cap- tain Clerke and the offuors not to go far from the ships. In the course of the afternoon the chief asked me three several times if I would not go to the bathing-place ; and when he found at last that I could not be prevailed upon, he went off wfth the rest of hia people, in spite of all I could do or say to stop him. But as I had no suspicion at this time of their design, I imagined that some sudden fright had seized them, which would aa usual soon be over. Finding them- selves disappointed as to me, they fixed on those who were more in their power. It was fortuna te for all parties that they did not succeed, and not less fortimate that no mischief was done on the occasion. For not a musket was fired, except two or three to stop the canoes. To that firing, perhaps, Messrs Clerke and Gore ov. >?d their safety ;^ for at that very instant a party of the natives armed with cluns were advancing toward them ; and on hearing the report of the muskets they dispersed. This con- spiracy, as it may be called, was first discovered by a girl whom one of the officers had brought from Hua- heine. She, overhearing some of the Ulietoans say that they would seize Captain Clerke and Mr Gore, ran to acquaint the first of our people that ^ Perhaps they owed their safety principally to Captain Cletko's walk- mg with a pistol in his hand, which he once fired. This circumstance is omitted both in Captain Cook's and in Mr Anderson's journal, but is here nentioned on the authority of Cap- tnin King.'^Notein Original Edition. COOK'S VOYAGFJ?. [Voy. 1 11. B. III. Cn. VII. she met with. Those who charged with the execution of the design threatened to kill her, as soon as we should leave the island, for dis- appointing them. Being aware of this, we contrived that ner friends should come some days after, and take her out of the ship to convey her to a place of safety, where she might lie concealed till they should have an opportunity of sending her back to Huaheine. On the 27th our observatories were taken down, and everything we had ashore carried on board; the moor- ings of the ships were cast off; and we transported them a little way down the harbour, where they came to an anchor again. Toward the afternoon the natives began to shake off their fears, gathering round and on board the ships as usual ; and the awkward transaction of the day be- fore seemed to be forgotten on both sides. The following night the wind blew in hard squalls from S. to £., attended with heavy showers of rain. In one of the squalls the cable by which the Resolution was ridings parted just without the hawse. We nad another anchor ready to let go ; so that the ship was presently brought up again. In the afternoon the wind became moderate, and we hooked the end of the best small bower cable and got it again into the hawse. Oreo, the chief, being uneasy, as well as myself, that no account had been received from Bolabola, set oat this evening for that island, and de- sired me to follow down the next day with the ships. This was my inten- tion, but the wind which kept us in the harbour brought Oreo back from Bolabola with the two deserters. They had reached Otaha the same night they deserted ; but finding it iin|)ossible to get to any of the islands to the eastward (which was their in- tention) for want of wind, they had proceeded to Bolabola, and from thence to the small island Toobaee, where they were taken by the father of Pootoe, in consequence of the first message sent to Opoony. As soon as they were on board, the three pri- D«c. 1777. OOROO, THE DETHRONED KING OF ULIETEA. 2i9 ■oners were released. Thus ended an a/Fair which hud given me much trouhle and vexation. Nor would I Lave exerted ujyself so resolutely on tlie occa.si()U but lor the reiisou before lueiitioued, and to save the sou of a brother otiicor from being lost to his country. The wind continued con- stantly between the N. and W., and confined us in theharbourtill 8 o'clock in the morning of the 7th of Decem- ber, when we took the advantage of a light breeze which then sprung up at NE., and with the assistance of all the boats got out to sea, with the Discovery in company. During the last week we had been visited by people from all parts of the island, who furnished us with a large stock of hogs and green idantains ; •o that the time we lay wind-bound in the harboiu' was not entirely lost, green plantains being an excellent substitute for bread, as they will keep good a fortnight or three weeks. Be- sides this supply of provisions we also completed our wood and water. The inhaoitants of Ulietea seemed in general smaller and blacker than those of the other neighbouring islands, and appeared also less orderly, which perhaps may be considered ns the consequence of their having be- come subject to the natives of Bola- bola. Oreo, llu-ir chief, is only a sort of deputy of the Sovereign of that island, and the conquest seems to have lessened the number of sub- ordinate shicfs resident among them ; so that they aio less immediately under the insi)eotir>n of those whose interest it is to (mi force due obedience to authority. Ulietea, though now reduced to this humiliating state, was formerly, as we were told, the most eminent of thb cluster of islands, and probably the first seat of govern- ment ; for they say that the pre'ient royal family of Otaheite Lj desoiuled from that which reigned here oefore the late revolution. Ooroo, the de- throned monarch of Ulietea, w^as still alive when we were at Huaheine, where he resides, a royal wanderer, himishing in his person an instance of the instability of oower, but what b more remarkable, of the respect paid by these ))eople to particului families, and to the customs which have once conferred sovereignty ; for tlipy sullcr Ooroo to piiserve all the ensigns which they aj'propri.tte to majesty, though he has lost his do- miiiiuiis. Nv s.iw a similar instance of this while we were at Ulietea. One of the occasional visitors 1 now had was my old friend Oieo, the Lite chief of Huaheine. He still preserved his consequence, came always at the head of a numerous body of attend- ants, and was always provided with such presents as were very acceptable. This chief looked much better now than I had ever seen him d urine either of my former voyages. ' I could account for his improving in health as he grew older only from his drink- ing less copiously of the "ava" in his present station as a private gentle- man than he had been accustomed to do when he was regent. CHAPTER Vin. As soon as we had got clear of the harbour we took leave of Ulietea and steered for Bolabola. The chief, if not sole, object I had in view by visiting that island was to jtrocure from its monarch, Opoony, one of the anchors which M. de Bougaindlle had lost at Otaheite. This having afterwards been taken up by the natives there, had as they informed me been sent by them as a present to that chief. My desire to get posses- sion of it did not arise from our being in want of anchors. But having ex- pended all the hatchets and other iron tools which we had bi-;«ight from England in purchasing refreshments, we were now reduced to the necessity of creating a fresh assortment of trad- * Captain Cook had seen Oree iu 1769, whcu ho commanded the En- deavour ; also twice during his second voyage in 1772,— Note in Oriqimmi Edition. O k fi i I 210 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.TII.R.ITT.Ch. Vlll ing artidos bv fabricating thorn out I anchor, and [)roduccd tlie prcaeul I of the spare iron we had on board ; had proy)ared lor him, consisting of a and in such conversions, and in tlio linon night-t;own, a sliirt, some jjanzc occasion;tl UHPSol' the sliijis, K'''''*^ P'"'^ hamlken^hicrs, a lookiiii^-gliisa, some of that luid been alruaily expcndi'd. , bonds and otlier toys, and six axos. I thought that M. de IJougainvillo's At the siirht of these last there whs a anchor would supply our want of this useful material, ami I made no doubt that 1 bhonld be able to tempt 0[)<)ony to part with it. Uroo, and six or eight men move from Ulietea, took a passage with us to Bolabola. Indeed, most of the natives in general, exoept the chief himself, would have gl idly taken a passage with us to Enghuul. Al sun- sot, bein;,' the length of the south point of Dolabolu, we shorteiied (sail, and spent the night making short twards. At ihiybreak on the 8th we made sail for the harbour, which is on the west side of the ishiml. The wind was scant, so that we li::d to jdy up, and it was 9 o'clock before wu got near enough to send away a boat to sound the entrance ; for I had thoughts of running the ships in and anchoiing for a day or two. When the boat returned, the master, w!io was in her, re]torted that though at the entrance of the harbour the bottom was rocky, there was good ground within, and the depth of water twenty- seven and twenty-five fathoms, and that there was room to turn the shijis in, the channel being one-third of a mile broad. In consequence of this report we attempted to work the shijts in ; but the tide as well as the wind being against us, after making two or three trijis I found that it could not be done till the tide should tui-n in our favour. Upon this I gave up tli(; design of carrying the ships into the harbour, and having ordered the boats to be got ready, 1 embarked in one ol them, accompanied by Oreo and his companions, and was rowed in for the island. We landed where the natives di- rected us, and soon after I was intro- duced to Opoony, in the midst of a great concourse of people. Having nij time to lose, as soon as the neccs- SKTx formality of compliments was 9I!-:t I asked the chief to give me the general outt-iy. 1 could only gi'.ess the eausp by Opoony 's absolutely re- fusing to receive my present till I should get the anchor. He ordered three men to go and deliver it to nie, iud, as 1 UTiderstood, I v.ms to sond by them what 1 thoug!:t proper in return. With the.se ine.ssenL;i'rs wc set out in our boats for an ii.land lying nt the north .side of thecntjance iIlt«^ the harbour, whore the anchor had been deoosiled, 1 iouud it to be neither so large nor so perfect a.s 1 expected. It had originally weighed 700 pounds, according to the inaik that was upon it ; but the ring, with part of tlic .shank, and the two points, were now wanting. 1 was no longer at a loss to giuss the reason of OpnoTiy's rern^iiiL' my ]iresent ; he douhlltss thoiiglii th.it ii so much exceeded the value ol' the anchor in its present state that 1 should be dis- plea.sed when 1 saw it. Be thi.s as it may, 1 took the anchor as I fuund it. and sent him every article of the pre- sent that I at first intended. Having thus completed my negotiation, I re- turned on board, and having hoisted in the boats, made sail from the island to the north. While the boats were hoisting in, some of the natives came oft" in three or four canoes to see the slaps, as they said. They brought with them a few cocoa-nuts and one ])ig, which was the only one we got at the island. I make no doubt, however, that if we had stayed till the next day we should have been plentifully supplied with jirovisions ; and I think the natives would feel themselves disap- pointed when they found that we were gone. But as we had already a very good stock both of hogs and of fruit on board, and very little of anji,hing left to purchase more, I could have no inducement to defei any longer the prosecution of our voyage. [An account is here omitted ring, Dkc.1777.] KKrUTATION op THK nOKAnoi.A ilKN. £11 of the circum.stii.ucos uttumliiiit the i ation for a bre.-I of shoep at DoU> conquest of Ulictta uiiv the peoj)lfa of Bolaltola — those two inlands rcMiainiii.,' under tlie sway of Kin'^ Opouny, wiiilu iliiabcinu, witiob L.td also boon poni|iuirt'(l, thanks to the aiil of tho oi.iiii'iLoana, ri-,L,';iinoJ an>l retained tliuir indcpcnduuce. 'lnv rcidcr will rt-eall Oin;ii's rancour a;{ainst the IJolaljolans, tliroui^h whose Iircdoniinanco in the conteat be lost lis [tatriniuny in Ulietea.J boia. 1 hIho ktl at Uliutea, under the care of Oreo, an Kn^'liah boar and sow and tuo ;{<)ats; 8^ill iu a f«'w years have their i r.ue of bo^h considi-rably ininroved, . and inub.ibiy '"e 8;o.'ked with all t!ie I valuable animals which have bocn ' tian^jhjrted hither by their l'iUro}>eau visiiurs. When once this comes to pass, no Ever since Ibo comiuest of Uliet«-a i mrt of tiie world will o(|uai these and Otaha, the Bolalxda men have i island:! in variety and abundance of been considered by their noi^hi"Jura I refrcbhrnents for navigators. Indeed, as invincible; and such is tiu extent i even in their present state I know no of their fame, that even at OLaheite, i pbice that excels them. After repeated which in almost out of their reach, if 1 tiials iu tho course of several voyau'es, thoy are not dreaded, they are at lex-A \ we find when they are not dislusbctl rocipectcd for their valour. It in siid • by intestine broils, but live in amity thiit they never lly in battle, and I'uut they always beat an equal number of tho other islaiidera. But, b»-.i-.l'.ts these advantages, their neighljour** seem to ascribe a great deal to tiie sui>eriority of their god, who, they believed, detained us at Ulietea by contrary winds, as being unwilling that we should visit an island under his special protection. How high the Bolauola null uie now iu cstii.i.kJnn at Otaheite may be inferred from M. de Rougaiuville's anchor having bi^ -u conveyed to them. To the same can >e we mast iiscribe the iutentiu:i uf with one another, which has been tho «:jLse for sume ytiais jiist, that theh" prwductious are in the git-alest ph'Uty, and particularly the most valuable of ail their ariiius, their bogs. If we had had a larger assortment of goods and a sullieient quantity of salt on board, I make no doubt that we might have salted as much pork as would have served both ships near twelve months. r»ut our visiting the Friendly Islands, and (»ur ly thv! present I have laid the found- return of the Spaniards every day ; and they will look for the Eugliah two or three, years hence not onlv there, but at tlie other islands. It i? 212 ) ii to no purpose to tell them that you will not return. They think you muiit, though not ono ot lUeni knows or will give himself the troublo to inquire the reiuuii of yuur uoniing. I own I cannot avoid exiMussing it as my real opinion, that it would have been far better for these \)oot people never to have known our superiority in the accomiiiodutions and orts that make life comfortable, thun alter once knowing it to be a^ain left and abandoned to their origmul incapacity of improvement. Indeed, they can- not be restored to that happy medi- ocrity in which they lived l)efore we discovered them, if the intercourse between us should be discontinued. It seems to me that it has become in a manner incumbent on the Euro- }>eans to visit them once in three or bur years, in order to supply them with those conveniences which we have introduced among them and have given them a predilection for. The want of such occasional supplies will probably be very heavily felt by them, when it may be too late to go back to their old, less perfect con- trivances which they now despise and have discontinued since the introduc- tion of ours. For by the time that the iron tools of which they are now possessed are worn out, they will have almost lost the knowledge of their own. A stone hatchet is at present as rare a thin^ amongst them as an iron one was eight years ago, and a chisel of bone or stone is not to be seen. Spike-nails have supplied the place of the last ; and they are weak enough to fancy that they have got an inexhaustible store of them, for these were not now at all sought after. Sometimes, however, nails much smaller than a spike would still be taken in exchange for fruit. Knives happened at present to be in great eateein at Ulietea, and axes and hatchets remained unrivalled by any other of our commodities at all the islands. With respect to articles of mere ornament, these people are as changeable as any of the polished nations of Europe ; so that what pleases their fancy while a fashion is COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT.lII.n.ia.CH.IX. in vogue may bo rejected when another whim iia.1 supplanted it. But our irun touls aiti i>o strikingly useful that they will, we may coniidently pro- nuunce, cuutinue to prize them highly, and be completely miserable if, neither possessing the materials nor trained up to the art of fabricating them, they slum Id cesise to receive supplies of what may now be consi«leretl as having licouine necessary to their comfortable existence.^ CHAPTER IX.» Perhaps there is scarcely a spot in the universe that affords a more luxuriant prospect than the south-east part of Otah' "*e. The hills are high and steep, and . nauy places craggy ; but they are C( ed to the very sum- mits with trees :ind shrubs, in such a manner that the spectatorcan scarcely help thinking that the very rocks possess the property of producing and supporting their verdant clothing. The flat land which bounds those hills toward the sea, and the inter- jacent valleys, aljo teem with various productions, that grow with the most exuberant vigour, and at once fill the mind of the beholder with the idea that no place upon earth can outdo this in the strength and beauty of vegetation. Nature has been no less liberal in distributing rivulets, which are found in every valley, and, as they approach the sea, often divide into two or three branches, fertilising the flat lands through which they run. The habitations of the natives are scattered without order upon the flats, and many of them appearing ^ The rest of the Chapter, chiefly consisting uf the record of astrono- mical and nautical observations, is omitted. ' This Chapter, contributed by Mr Anderson's pen, has been consider- ably curtailed by omission of the more uninteresting technical, natn- ralistic, linguistic, and professional passages. inter- Duo. 1777.] PRODUCTIONS townrd tlin shore proscn^.ptl a delij^ht- fill scene viewed from our sliips, fsitc- daily as the si'ii, within the rvx( which bounds the coast, is perfectly still, and atforda a safe navigation at all times for the inhahitants, who are often soon padiUing their canoes indo- lently along, in passing from ]dace to place, or in going to fish. On view- ing these charming scenes, I have often regretted tny inability to trans- mit to tnose who have had no op|>or- tunity of seeing thcin such a descrip- tion as might in some measure con- vey an impression similar to what must be felt by every one who has been fortunate enough to be upon the spot. It is doubtless the natural fertility of the country, combined with the mildness and serenity of tlie climate, that renders the natives so careless in their cultivation that in many places, though overflowing with the richest productions, the smallest traces of it cannot be observed. The products of the island are not •0 remarkable for their variety as great abundance ; and curiosities of any kind are not numerous. Amongst these we may reckon a pond or lake of fresh water, at the top of one of the highest mountains, to go to and to return from which takes three or four days. It is remarkable for its depth, •nd has eels of an enormous size in it, which are sometimes caught by the natives, who go npon this water in little floats of two or three wild plan- tain trees fastened together. This is esteemed one of the greatest natural curiosities of the country, insomuch that travellers who come from the other islands are commonly asked, amongst the first things, by their friends at their return, if they have seen it. There is also a sort of water, of which there is only one small pond upon the island, as far distant as the lake, and to appearance very good, witli a yellow sediment at the bottom ; but it has a bad taste, and proves fatal to those who drink any quantity, or makes them break out in blotches if they bathe in it. Nothing could make a stronger im- pression at first sight, on our arrival OF OTATTEITf. 213 here, than tlio remarkable contrast between the robust make and dark colour of the people of Tonj,'i»taboo, and a sort of uelJcacy and whiteness which distinguish the inhabitants of Otaheite. It was even some time bef, ^™^m« ■ 214 COOK'S VOYAGRfl. tity of oJothftp, a?'y frequently varied them to more n^tined sul>jects, and had much pleasure in chanting their triumphs in war and their occupa- tions in peace, their travels to other islands and adventures there, and tli* peculiar beauties and superior advau tages of their own island over the rest, or of diiTcrent parts of it over other less favourable districts. This marks that they receive great delight from music ; and though they rnther ex- pressed a dislike to our complicated compositions, yet were they always delighted with the more melodious sounds produced singly on our instru* ments, as approaching nearer to the simplicity of their own. Neither are they strangers to the soothing eftccts produced by particu- lar sorts of motion, which in some crises seem to allay any perturbation (.f mind with as much success aa music. Of this 1 met with a remark- al)le instance. For on walking one day about Matavai Point, where our tents were erected, I saw a man [)ad- dling in a small canoe so (piickly, and hjoking about him with such eagerness on each side, as to command all my attention. At first I imagined that he had stolen something from one of the ships, and was pursued ; but, on waiting patiently, saw him repeat his amusement. He went out from the sh^re till he was near the place wherr ffrave Deo. 1777.] LANGUAGE OF THE OTAHEITEANS. 215 the swell begins to take its rise ; and, | " yearning of the bowels." They use watching its first motion v. ^y atten- : it on all occasions when the passions tively, paddled before it with great ' give thorn uneasine.ss ; as they con- quickness, till he found that it over- ; stantly refer pain from grief, anxious looked him, and had acquired sulti- desire, cient force to carry his canoe before it without passinji; undenieath. He then sat motionless, and was canied along at tlie sa:nc swift rate as the wave, till it laiulod him upon the beach. Then he started out, emptied his canoe, and went in search of iiu- otlier swell. I could not help con- clnding that this man felt the most supreme [jleasnre while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly, by the sea; especially as, though the tents and ships were so near, he did not 8eem in the least to envy or even to take and other aflections, to the bowels as its scat ; where they like- wise suppose all operations of the mind are performed. Their language admits of that inverted arrangement of words which so much distinguishes tiie Latin and Greek from most of our modcin Euro])ean tongues, whose iiiiperfections reipiire a more orderly construction, to prevent ambiguities. It is so copious that for the breati- fruit alone, in its different states, they have above twenty names ; as many for the " taro " root ; and about ton for the cocoa-nut. Add to this, any notice of the crowds of his country- j that besides the common dialect they men collected to view them as objects which were rare and curious. During my stay, two or three of the natives came np, who seemed to share his felicity, and always called out when there was an appearance of a favour- able Srt'ell, as he sometimes missed it by his back being turned, and looking abont for it. liy them I undcrstrod that this exercise, which is called "choroee," was frequent amongsl them; and they have probably more amusements of this sort which atford them at least as much plejisure as skating, which is the only one of ours with whose effects I could compare it. The language of Otaheite abounds with beautiful and figurative expres- sions which, were it peif'octly known, would, I have no doubt, put it upon a level with ninny of the languages that are most in esteem for their warmth and bold iuiagcs. For in- stance, the Otaluitcai-.fA express their notions of death very emphatically by saving "that the .soul ffoes into dark- ness," or rather " into night." And if you seem to euteitain any doubt in asking the question, "If such a person is their mother?" 'hey imme- diately reply with sur],rise, " Yes, the mother that bore me." They have one expression, that corresponds exactly with the phraseology of the ScriptureS| where we read uf the often expostulate in a kind of stanza or recitative, which i3 answered in the same nuinner. Their .arts are few and simple ; yet, if we may credit them, they perfonn cures in surgery which our extensive knowledge in that branch has not as yet owabled us to imitate. In simple fractures they bind them up with .splints ; but if pai-t of the sub- stance of the ;)one be lost, they insert a piece of wood between the fractured ends, made hollow like the deficient part. In five or six days the * ' rapaoo, '* or surgeon, inspects the wound, and finds the wood partly covered with the growing flesh. In as many more days it is generally entirely covered ; after which, when the patient has acquired some strength, lie bathes in the water, and recovers. We know that wounds will heal over leaden bullets ; and sometimes, though rai-ely, over other exti'aueous bodies. But what makes me entertain some doubt of the truth of so extraordinary skill as in the above instance is, that in other cases which fell under my own obsor^'iition they are far from being so dexterous. 1 have seen the stump of an arm, which was taken otf after be- ing shattered by a fall from a tree, that bore no marks of skilful opera- tion, though some allowance be made for their defective instruments. And I met a man going about with a dis< I? \ t, , 1 i 1 1 1 111 I I ■I :ii i I I IIP! ,S ii< Pii; f I 216 COOK'S VOYAGES. located shonlder, some monflis after the accident, from their being ignor- ant of a method to reduca it ; though this be considered as one of the sim- plest operations of our surgt ry. They Know that fractures or Inflations of the spine are mortal, but not fractures of the skull ; and they likewise know from experience in what parts of the body wounds prove fatal. They have sometimes pointed out those inflicted by sjwars, which, if made in the direc- tion they mentioned, would certainly have been pronounced deadly by us ; and j'ct these people have recovered. Their physical knowledge seems more confined ; and that, probably, because their diseases are fewer than their accidents. The times of eating 'at Otaheite are very frequent. Their first meal, or (as it may rather be called) their last, as they go to sleep after it, is about 2 o'clock in the morning ; and the next is at eight. At eleven they dine ; and again, as Omai expressed it, at two and at five ; and sup at eight. In this article of domestic life they have adopted some customs which are exceedingly whimsical. The women, for instance, have not only the mor- tification of being obliged to eat by themselves, and in a different part of the house from the men ; but, by a strange kind of policy, are excluded from a share of most of the better sorts of food. They dare not taste turtle, nor fish of the tuncy kind, which is much esteemed, nor some particular sorts of the best plantains ; and it is very seldom that even those of the first rank are suffered to eat pork. The children of each sex also eat apart, and the women generally serve up their own victuals ; for they would certainly starve before any grown man would do them such an office. In this, as well as in some other customs relative to their eating, there is a mysterious conduct which we could never tlioroughly compre- hend. When we inquired into the reasons of it, we f.onld get no other answer but that it in right and neces- sary it should be so. In other customs respecting the [Vot.III.B.III.Ch.IX. females there seems to be no such obscurity ; especially as to their con- nections V7ith the men. If a young man and woman, from mntnal choice^ cohabit, the man gives the father t4 the girl such things as are necessary in common life, as hogs, cloth, or canoes, in proportion to the time they are together ; and if he thinks that he has not been sufficiently paid for his daughter, he makes no scruple of forcing her to leave her friend and to coliabit with another person who may be more liberal. The man, on hia part, is always at liberty to make a new choice ; but, should his consort become pregnant, he may kill the child, and after that either continue his connection with the mother cr leave her. lint if he should adopt the child, and suffer it to live, the parties are then considered as in the married state, and they commonly live together ever after. However, it is thought no crime in the man to join a more youthful partner to hia first wife, and to live with both. The custom of changing their connections is, however, much more general than this last ; and it is a thing so common that they speak of it with great indif- ference. The "Erreoes,' ^ are only those of the better sort who from their fickleness, and their possessing the means of purchasing a succession ol fresh connections, are constantly roam- ing about, and, from having no par- ticular attachment, seldom adopt the more settled method mentioned above. And so agreeable is this licentious plan of lire to their disposition, that the most beautiful of both sexes thus * Otherwise spelt "Arreoys." In the Original Edition there is a lo; and learned note at this point, the only part of wliich really pertinent is the citation of Father le Gobien's ** History of the Ladrone Islands," where be describes a similar society under the substantially identical de- signation of "Urritoes." His words are: "Les Urritoes sent parmi eux les jei;nes gens qui vivent avec des maltresties, sans vouloir s'eugager danc les liens du maricge. " l( IX. Dkc. 1777.] commonly spend their youthful days, habituated to the practice of enor- mities which would disgrace the most aavagis tribes, but are peculiarly shock ing amorgst a people whose general character, in other respects, has evi- dent tracesof the prevalence of humane and tender feelings. When an " Er- reoe " woman is delivered of a child, a piece of cloth dipped in water is ap])lied to the mouth and nose, which ■uirocates it. As in such a life their women must contribute a very large share of its hap])iness, it is rather suriirising, besides the humiliating restraints they are laid under with regard to food, to find them often treated with a degi'ee of harshness, or rather brutality, which one would scarcely suppose a man would bestow on an object for whom he had the least affection. Nothing, however, is more common than to see the men beat them without mercy; and unless this treatment is the eifect of jealousy, which both sexes at least pretend to be sometimes infected with, it will be difficult to admit this as the motive, as I have seen several instances where the women have preferred personal beauty to interest. Though I mu^t own, that even in these cases they seem scarcely susceptible of those delicate sentiments that are the result of mutual affection ; and I believe that there is less Platonic love in Otaheite than in any other countiy. Their religious system is extensive, find in many instances singular ; but few of the common people have a per- fect knowledge of it, that being con- fined chiefly to tlieir priests, who are pretty numerous. They do not seem to pay any respect to one god as pos- tessing pre-eminence, but believe in f ]>lurality of divinities who are all Tery powerful ; and in this case, as different parts of the island, and the other islands in the neighliourhood, have different ones, the inhabitants of each no doubt think that they have chosen the most eminent, or at least one who is invested with power sulh- cient to protect them and to supply all their wants. If he should not answer their expectations, they think SYSTEM OF RELIGION. 217 it no impiety to change ; as very lately hapi)ened in Tiaraboo, where in the room of the two divinities formerly honoured there, Oraa,^ god of Bola- bola, has been adopted, 1 should sup- pose because he is the protector of s people who have been victorious iix war ; und as, since they have made this cliange, they have been very stio- cessful themselves against the inhahJ* tants of ' ' Otaheite-nooe, " they imputs it entirely to "Oraa," who, as they literally say, fights their battles. Their assiduity in serving their gods is remarkably conspicuous. Not only the " whattas," or offering places of the ' * morals, " are commonly loaded with fruit and animals ; but there are few houses where you do not meet with a small place of the same sort near them. Many of them are so rigidly scrupulous, that they will not begin a meal without first laying aside a morsel for the "Eatooa;" and we had an opportunity during this voyage of seeing their superstitious zeal car- ried to a most pernicious height, in the instance of human sacrifices, the occasions of offering which I doubt are too frequent. Perhaps they have recourse to them when misfortunes occur J for they asked if one of our meu who hai)peued to be confined when we were detained by a contrary wind was "taboo."' Their praycre are also very frequent, which they chant much after the manner of the songs in their festive entertainmenti. And. the women, as in other cases, are also obliged to show their inferiority in religious observances ; for it is re- quired of thcra that they should partly uncover themselves as they j)ass the "morais," or take a considerable cir- cuit to avoid them. Though they have no notion that their god must always be conferring benefits, without sometimes forgetting them, or suffer- ^ We have here an instance of the same word being differently pro- noimced by the people. Captain Couk speaks of OUa as the Bolabola god. » That is, if he had been killed for a sacrifice. T 218 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.III. B. lIT.Cn. IX , ' n If I m it I ing evil to befall them, they seem to rogard this less than the attempts of some more inanspioioiis ))(iiig to hurt them. They tell us that "Kteo" is ftn evil spirit, who sometimes doos them mischief, and to Avhom, as well as to their .c;o(J, they make oUerings. But the uiiKchiiTs they apprehend from (>ny su[>erior invinciLlo beings are coutined to things merely tem- poral. They believe the soul to be both immaterial and immortal. Tbcy .say that it keeps H'.ittt.'ring about '.':•* ]'\[>s during the pings of death ; and that then it ascends and mixes with, or as thej' express it, is eaten by the di'ity. In this state it remains for some time, after which it depart^ to a certain place destined for the reception of the souls of men, where it exists in eternal ni,!,dit, or, as they sometimes say, in twilight or dawn. They have no idea of any permanent puni&huient after death for crimes that they have committed on earth ; for the souls of good and bad men are eaten indiscri- minately by God. But they certainly consider this coalition with the Deity as a kind of purification necessary to be undergone bei'oie they enter a stiite of bliss. For, according to their doc- trine, if a man refrain from all con- nection, with women some months meeting of man and wife. If th« husband ilies first the soul of his wife is known to liim on its am'val in the land of spirits. They resume their fonner acquaintance in a spacious house called "tourooa," where the .souls of the deceased fissemblo to re- create themselves with the gods. She then retires with him to his se[>arate habitation, where they remain for over, and have an otrsiiring, which, however, is entirely spiritual, r.s they are neither married, nor are their em- bracer) .->uj.[.(>.se>i to i}e the same as with corporeal beings. Some of their notions about the Deity are extravagantly absurd. They believe that he is sul)ject to the power of those very spirits to whom ho has given existence ; and that, in their tuni, thi\v frequently eat or devour idm, though he possess the power of re-creating himself. They, doubtless, use this mode of expressi(jn, as they seem incapable of conversing about immaterial things without constantly referring to material objects to convey their meaning. And in this manner tiiey continue the account, by saying that in the "tourooa" the deity in- ([uires if they intend or not to destroy him ; and that he is not able to alter their determination. This is known to the inhabitancs on earth, as well as before death, he passes immediatel}' I to the spirits ; for wlicn the moon is into his eternal mansion without such • previous union, as if already, by this abstinence, he were pure enough to be exempted from the general lot. They are, however, far from enter- taining those sublime conceptions of happiness which our religion and, in its wane it is snil tlint they are then devouring their " Katooa ;" and that, as it inci'easos. he is renewing himself. And to this accident not only the inferior but the most eminent gods are liable. They also believe that thei'e are other places for the re indeed, reason give us room to expect i ception of souls at death. Thus those hereafter. The only great privilege they seeTn to think they shall acquire by death is immortality ; for they speak of s])irits being in some measure not totally divested of tho.se passions which actuated th cautiously he woman taring of « Dec. 1777.] PROGRESS AFTER LEAVING SOCIETY ISLANDS. 221 boy, who informed her father. In consequence of this, the Mataeevans fell upon them ; but these warlike people killed three times their own number, though with the loss of all their party, except five. These hid themselves in the woods and took an opportunity, when the others were burying their dead, to enter some houses, where, having provided them- selves with victuals and water, they carried them on board a canoe, in which they made their esca])e ; and after passing Mataia, at which they would not touch, at last arrived safe at Eimeo. The Bolabolans, however, were sensible enough that their tra- vellers had been to blame ; for a canoe from Mataeeva aiTiving some- time after at Bolabola, so far were they from retaliating upon them for the death of their countrymen that they acknowledged that they had de- served their fate, and treated their visitors kindly. These low isles pjre, doubtless, the farthest navigation \?hich those of Otaheite and the Society Islands per- form at present. It seems to be a groundless supposition made by M. de Bougainville that they made voy- ages 01 the prodigious extent^ he mentions, for 1 found that it is reck- oned a sort of prodigy that a canoe once driven by a storm from Otaheite should have fallen in with Mopeeha, or Howe's Island, though so near and directly to leewtud. The knowledge they have of other distant islands is no doubt traditional, and has been communicated to them by the natives of those islands driven accidentally upon their coasts, who, besides giving them the names, could easily inform them of the direction in which the places lie from whence they came, aid of the number of days they had Deen upon the sea. In this manner it may be supposed that the natives of AVateeoo have increased their cata- logue by the addition of Otaheite and its neighbouring isles from the {leople we met with there, and also of the other islouda those had heard ot * In Bougainville's '* Voyage autour du Monde we are told that these people sometimes navigate to the dis- tance of moiu than 800 leagues. CHAPTER X. After leaving Bolabola I steered t<» the northward, close hauled, with tha wind between NL. and K. Though seventeen mouths had now elapsed. since our departure from England, during which we had not upon the whole been unprofitably employed, 1 was sensible that, with regard to the principal object of my instructions, our voyage was at this time only be- ginning, and therefore my attention to every circumstance that might contribute toward our safety and our ultimate success was now to be called forth anew. With this view I had examined into the state of our pro- visions at the last islands ; and as soon as I had left thom and got be- yond the extent of my former dis- coveries, I ordered a survey to be taken of all the boatswain's and car* penter's stores that were in the ships, that I might be fully informed of the quantity, state, and condition of every article, and by that means know how to use them to the greatest advantage. Before I sailed from the Society Islands, I lost no opportunity of in- quiring of the inhabitants if there were any islands in a north or north- west direction from them, but I did not find that they knew of any. Nor did we meet with anything that in dicated the vicinity of land till we came to about the Latitude of 8° 3., where we began to see birds, such as boobies, tropic and man-of-war birds, tern, and some other sorts. At this time our longitude was 205° K Men- dana, in his first voyage in ISBSj discovered an island which he named Isla de Jesus in Latitude 6° 45' S., and 1450 leagues from Cnllao, which is 200° E. Longitude from Greenwich. We crossed this latitude near lOU leagues to the eastward of this longi- tnde. and saw there many of thj ^'\ ff I;! T 222 alwve-mentioned birds, which are sel- dom known to go very far from laud. In the ni/^ht between the 22d and 2;5(l we crossed the Line, in the Loii;,'itudeol'203''15' E. On the 24tli, about half-an-hour after dayliieak, laud was discovfinnl, bciiring NE. by K. half E. Ujion a nearer ajjproacli it was found to be one of those low islands so common in this ocean, that is, a nan-ow bank of land enclosing the sea within. A few cocoa-nut trees were seen in two or three places, but in geneinl the land had a very barren appuarance. At noon it extended from NE. by E. to S. by E. half E., aboui ion;- miles distant. The wind was at ESE., so tiiat we were under a iietu;.-i.,ity of making a few boards to^et up to the lee or W. sid*?, whore we i'onnd from forty to twenty and Iburt'.'cn fatlioms water, over a bottom of tine sand — the least depth about half-a-mile from the brealceis, and the greatest about one mile. The meeting with sound- ings determined mo to anchor, with a view to try to get some turtle ; for the island seemed to be a likely place to meet with them, and to be without inhabitants. Accordingly we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms, and then a boat was despatched to examine whether it was practicable to land, of which I had some doubt, as the sea broke in a dreadful surf all along the shore. When the boat returned, the officer whom I had entrusted with this examination reported to me that he could see no place where a boat could land, bat that there was great abundance of fish in the shoal water without the breakers. In the morning of the 27th the pinnace and cutter, under the com- mand of Mr King, were sent to the south-east part of the island, within the lagoon, and the small cutter to the northward, where I had been the day before — both parties being ordered upon the same service, to catch turtle. Oftptain Gierke having had some of his people on shore all night, they had been so fortunate as to turn be- tween forty and fifty on the sand, whioh were brought on board with COOK'S VOYAGES. fVoT. III. B. III. Cn. X. all expedition this day; and in the afternoon the party i nad sent north- w^ard returned with six. They were sent back again, and remained there till we left the island, having in general pretty good success. On the 2Sth I lauded, in comi)any with Mr liayly, on the island which lies be- tween the two clianncls into the lagoon, to prepare the telescopes foi observing the approaching eclipse oi the sun, which was one great induce- ment to my anchoring here. About noon Mr King returned with one boat and eight turtles, leaving seven be- hind to be brou.^ht by the other boat, whose jieople were employed in catch- ing more ; and in the evening the same l)oat was sent with water and jtrovisioris lor them. Mr Williamson now went to su]ierintend this duty in the room of Mr King, who remained on board to attend the observation of the eclipse. The next day Mr Wil- liamson despatched the two boats back to the ship laden witH turtle. At the same time he sent nic a mes- sage desiring that the boats might be ordered round by sea, as he had found a landing-place on the south-east side of the island, where most of the turtle were caught; so that by sending the boats thither the trouble would be saved of carrying them over the land to the inside of the la':;oon, as had been hitherto done. The boats were accordingly despatched to the place which he pointed out. On the morning of the 30th, th* day when the eclipse was to happen, Mr King, Mr Bajdy, and myself went ashore on the small island above mentioned, to attend the observation. The sky was overcast till past 9 o'clock, when the clouds about the sun dispersed long enough to take its altitude, to rectify the time by the watch we made use of. After this it was again obscured till about thirty minutes past nine, and then we found that the eclipse was begun. We now fixed the micrometers to the telescopes, and observed or measured the un- eclipsed part of the sun's disc. At these observations I continued about three-quarters of an hour before th# ■ 'n.X. vera there Jan. 1778.] end, when I AN rlOLIPSE OF THE RUN OBSERVEr). 223 loft off, hfiTij; in fact unoble to continue thcin longer on account of the great heat of the sun, increased by tlie rt'flor,tiou from the sand. The sun was clouded at times ; but it was cKtiir wlien the eclipse ended, the time of which was observed as follows : By Jlr liayly, at Mr King, no. Mill. 26 25 Sec. 3 1 37 Myself, Apparent time p.m. Mr Bayly and 1 observed with the large achromatic t('k'Sco|ics, and Mr King with a relK'ctor. As Mr Bayly's telescojie and mine were of the same niiignifying power, I ought not to have diHerod so much from him as 1 did. Perhaps it was in part, if not wholly, owing to a j.rotuberance in the moon wiii<'}i fsia[iod my notice, but was seen by liotli tiie otlicr gentle- men. . , . Having some cocoa-nuts and yams on board in a state ol' vegetation, I ordered them to be planted on the little island where we had observed the eeliji.se, and some nielon-.seeds were sown in another place. I also left on the little island a bottle con- taining this inscription : ' Georgius Tertius Jlcx, 31 JJecemlris 1777. ,;• ( Reslution, Joe. Cook, Pr. \ Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr." On the 1st of January 1778, 1 sent boats to bring on board all our parties from the land, and the turtle they had caught. Before this was com- pleted it was late in the afternoon, so that 1 did not think proper to sail till next morning. We got at this island, to both ships, about 300 turtle, weighing one with anothei- about 90 or 100 pounds. They were all of the green kind, and perhaps a.s good as any in the world. vVe also caught with hook and line as much fish as we could consume during oui- stay. They consisted principally of cavallies of dilferent sizes, large and small gnappers, and a few of two sorts of ri>ck-li.sh, one with numerous snots of blue, and the other with whitish streaks scattered about. . . . As we kejit our Christmas here, I called this discoveryChri.^tiiius Island. I jiid'^'e it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference.' It seemed to be of a semicircular form, or like t^e moon in the hi.st quarter, the two horns l)eing the noitli and south points. Christmcs Island, like most others in this ocean, is bounded by a reef of coral rocks, which extends but a little Way I'ii^m the shore. Farther out than this reef, on the west side, is a bank of sand extending a mile into the sea. On this bank is good an- chor;i;jo in any dejith between eighteen and thirty fathoms. In less than the lirst-mentioned depth the reef would be too near ; and in more than the last the cilirt! of the bank would not be at a sullioient distance. JJuring the tim<' we lay here, the wind 'blew constan y a fresh gale at E. or E. by S., except one or two days. We had always a great swell from the north- ward, which bioke upon the reef, in a ])rodigious surf. We had found this swell before we came to the i:sLind ; and it continued for eoine days after we left it. CHAPTER XI. Ox the 2d of .TariiKiry at daybreak vra weiglied anchor and resumed on? course to the N,, having fine weather. We continued to see birds every day, of the sort.s last mentioned, some- times in greater numbers than others, and between the latitude of 10° and 11° we saw several turtle. All these are looked upon vicinity of land, covered none till as signs of the However, we dis- daybreak in the morning of the ISth, when an i.sland made its ajipearanco bearing NE. by E., and soon after wo saw more land beni'ing N. and entirely detached 'It lies, according to Cook's ob- servations, in 1" 59' N. Latitude, aiSii 202° 30' E. Longitude. i ill i ? i II i-i ?2t from the frmner. Both had the ap- pearance of l)eing high land. Wo had now liglit airs and calms hy turns ; so that at sunsi!t we were nut less than nine or ten leagues from the nearest land. On the 19th at sunrise the island first seen bore E. several leagues dis- tant. This being directly to wind- ward, which prevented our getting near it, I stood for the other, which we could reach ; and not long after ^-•-.r.Qvered a third island in the direc- tion of WNW., as far distant as land could be seen. We had now a fine breeze at E. by N. ; and I steered for the east end of the second island. At this time we were in some doubt whether or no the land before us was inhabited; but this doubt was soon cleared up by seeing some canoes coming off from the shore toward the ships. I immediately brought to, to give them time to join us. They had from three to six men each, and on their approach we were agreeably sur- prised to find that they spoke the language of Otaheite and of the other islands we had lately visited. It re- quired but very little address to get them to come alongside ; but no en- treaties could prevail upon any of them to come on board. I tied some brass medals to a rope and gave them tc those in one of the canoes, who in return tied some small mackeiel to tlie rope as an equivalent. This was repeated, and some small nails or bits of iron, which they valued more than any other article, were given them. For these they exchanged more fish, and a sweet potato ; a sure sign that they had some notion of bartering, or at least of returning one present for another. They had nothing else in their canoes except some large gourd shells, and a kind of fishing-net; but one of them offered for sale the piece of stuff that he wore round his waist after the manner of the other islands. These people were of a brown colour, and though of the common size, were stoutly made. There was little differ- \»nce in the cast of their colour, but a ^nsiderable variation in their features; AMfio of their visages not being very COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.HI.B.III.Ch.XI unlike those of Europeans. The hail of most of tliom was cropped nretty short ; others had it flowing loose ; and with a few it was tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. In all it seemed to be naturally Hack ; but most of them had stained it, as is the practice of the Friendly Islanders, with some stuff which gave it a brown or burnt colour. In general they wore their beards. They had no or- naments about their persons, nor did we observe that their ears were \>er' forated ; but some were punctured on the hands, or near the groin, though in a small degi-ee; and the bits of cloth which they wore were curiously stained with red, black, and white colours. They seemed very mild, and had no arms of any kind, if we except some small stones which they had evidently brought fur their own defence ; and these they threw over- board when they found that they were not wanted. [Fiiuling no proper anchoring- place at the eastern extreme of the island, they bore away tc the middle of the NW. side, where they stood ofl" in five fathoms, over a sandy bottom. The natives who afterwards came on board showed great ignorance of everything Euro- pean, and proved themselves to be great thieves.] "While the boats were occupied in examining the coast, we stood on and oir with the ships, waiting for their retain. About noon Mr William' son came back and reported that he had seen a large pond behind a beach near one of the villages, which the natives told him contained fresh water, and that there was anchoring- ground before it. He also reportwi that ho had attempted to laud in another place, but was prevented by the natives, who, coming down to the boats in great numbers, attempted to take away the oars, muskets, and in abort everything that they could lay h*»ld of, and pressed so thick upon iiim that he was obliged to fire, by which one man was killed. But this unhappy circumstance I did not know till after we had left the island, so that all my measures were directed a» ■ A WATERING.PL.\CE FOUND. 22.') Jak. 1778.1 If nothing of the kind had happened. Mr Williamsoa told me th;it alter the man fell, hia countrymen took him up, carried him olf, and then rt tired from the boat ; but still they made signals for our people to land, which he ile- clined. It did not appear to Mr Williamson that the natives had any design to kill or even to hurt any of his party; but they seemed excited by mere curiosity, to get from them what they had, being at the same time ready to give in return anything of their own. After the boats were on board, I despatched one of them to lie in the best anchoring-grouml ; and as soon as she had got to this station, I bore down with the shij^, and anchored in twenty-five fathoms water. The Discovery anchored to the eastward of us, farther from the land. The ships being thus stationed between 3 and 4 o'clock, I went .ishore with three armed boats and twelve marines, to examine the water, and to try the disposition of the inhabit- ants, several hundreds of whom were assembled on a sandy beach before the village ; behind itT was a narrow ralley, the bottom of which was occu- pied by the piece of water. The very instant I leaped on shore, the collected body of the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble posture till by expressive signs I jircvailed upon them to rise. They then brought a great many small pigs, which they pre- sented to me, with plan tain -trees, using much the same ceremonies that we had seen practised on such occa- sions at the Society and other islands, and a long prayer being spoken by a single person, in which others of the assembly sometimes joined. I ex- pressed my acceptance of their prof- fered friendship, by giving them in return such presents as I had brought with me from the ship for that pur- pose. When this introductory busi- ness was finished, I stationed a guard upon the beach, and got some of the natives to conduct me to the water; which proved to be very good, and in a proper situation for our purfx^se. It was so considerable that it may be ,' this valley. calleil a lake, and it cxtendtd fuitliei up the country than we could see. Having satisfied myself about this Tery e8.seiitial point, and about the peaceable disposition of the natives, 1 returned on board, and then gave orders that everything should be in readiness for landing and filling our water-coijks in the morning; when I went ashore with the people emjj'ioyed in that service, haying a party of marines with us for a guard, who were stationed on the beach. As soon as wo landed, a trade was set on foot for ho^s and potatoes, which the people or the island gave us in exchange for nails and pieces of iron formed into something like chisels. We met with no obstmction in watering ; on the contrary, the natives a.ssLsted our men in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and readily performed whatever we requir- ed. Everything thus going on to my satisfaction, and considering my pre- sence on the spot unnecessary, I left the command to Mr Williamson, who had landed with me, and made an excursion into the country up the valley, accompanied by Mr Anderson and Mr Webber ; the former of whom was as well qualified to describe with the pen as the latter was to represent with his pencil everything we might meet with worthy of observation. A numerous train of natives followed us ; and one of them, whom I had distinguished for his activity in keep- ing the rest in order, I made choice of as our guide. This man from time to time proclaimed our approach ; and every one whom we met fell prostrate upon the ground and remained in that position till we had passed. This, as I afterward understood, is the mode of paying their respect to their own great chiefs. As we ranged down the coast from the east in the ships, we had observed at every village one or more elevated white objects,like pyra- mids or rather obelisks ; and one of these, which I guessed to be at least fifty feet high, was very conspicuous from the ship's anchoring station, and seemed to be at no great distance np To have a nearer inspeo P 1 r r: i I i 1 ■■ '■' i 1 1 i i 1 ; 1. h 1 <li I 22 rt tfon of it WM thfl ]irinoiy)al filijoct of my walk. Our guule porfiictly under- stood that we wished to ho conducted to it; but it hn|)])ened to hu su phicod that we couM not. ^ct at it, being separated f'l i u.s l»y tlic jinol of wntcr. However, tin ro being audtlicr of tlin same kind within our roach, about half-a-mile olf upon our side of the valley, we set out to visit that. The moment we got to it we saw that it stood in a burying- ground, or "morai,"thercsenibianceof which in many respects to tliosc we were so well acquainted with at other islands in this ocean, and p.-irticularly Otaheite, could not but strike us ; and wo also soon found that tlie several pnrts that compose it wore called by the same names. It was an oblong space, of considerable extent, surrounded ])y a wall of stone about four feet high. The space enclosed was loosely [)aved with smaller stones ; and at one end of it stood what I call the pyramid, but in the language of the island is named "henananoo ; " which appear- ed evidently to be an exact mod(il of the larger one observed by us from Hie ships. It was about four feet square at the base, and about twenty feet high. The four sides were composed of small poles interwoven with twigs and branches, thus forming an in- dilFerent wicker-work, hollow or o}»(!n within from bottom to top. It seemed to be rather in a ruinous state ; but there were sufficient remaining marks to show that it had originally been covered with a tliin, light, gi-ey cloth, which these people, it should seem, consecrate to religious purposes ; as we could see a good deal of it hanging in different parts of the "moral," and some of it had been forced upon me when I first landed. On each side of th»» pyramid were long pieces of wicker-work called "hereanee," in the same ruinous conieces of wood e.irved into something ike human fiinnes, which, with a stone near two l'e»;t high, covered with piecesof cloth callod "holio," andcon- secrated to " Tongaroua," >*ho is the god of these jieoplo, still more and more reminded us of what we used to meet with in the "morals" of the islands wo had lately left. Adjoin- ing to tliese, on the outside of the "moiai," was a small shed no bigger than a d(ig-kenn''l, which they called " hareepahi.'o;" and before it was a giave, where, as we were told, the remains of a woman lay. On the farther side of the area of the " moral " stood a house or shed about forty feet long, ten broad in the middle, each end Ixting narrower, and about ten feet high. This, which though much lonwr was lower than their common dwelling-places, wo were informed was called "hemanaa." The entrance into it was at the middle of the si]e way down. At the side of eadi was also a piece of carved wood, with bits of the cloth hung on them in the same manner ; and be- tween or before the pedestals lay a quantity of fern in a heap. It was ol)vious that this had been deposited there piece by piece and at ditlerent times ; for there was of it in all slates, from what was quite decayed to what was still fresh and gi'een. In tlie middle of the house, and before the two images, was an oblong space enclosed byalowedging (;f stoa(i» T ■ r.XL lie. BUKIAL-PLACE OF THE HUMAN SACRTFTrFA we /AN. 1778.1 find coven-'l with shr<;. tiie wind Peered to the E., which made it neces- sary to set all the siiil wa conld in order to clear thn shore ; so that before we had tolerable sea-room we were driven ■ome distance to leeward. We made a stretch off with a view to regain the road ; but having very little wind, and a strong curient against us, I found that this was not to be effected. I therefore despatched lilessrs King and Williamson ashore with three boats for water, and to trade for re- freshments. At the same time I sent an order to Captain Clerke to put to sea after me, if he should see that I could not recover the road. Being in hopes of finding oue^ or perhaps a harbour, at the wesb end of the island, I was the less anxious about gettir," 1»ack to my former station. But as i had sent the boats thither, we kept to windward as much as possible ; notwithstanding which, at noon we were thrt^ leagues to leeward. As we drew near the west end of the island, we found the coast to round gradually to the north-east, without forming a creek or cove to shelter a vessel from the force of the swell v7l)ioh rolled in from the noith, and broke upon the shore in a prodigious surf ; BO that all hopes of finding a harbour here vanished. Several canoes came off in the morn- ing, and followed us as we stood out to sea, bartering their roots and other articles. Being very averse to believe these people to be cannibals, notwith- standing the suspicious circurustance which had happened the day before, we took occasion now to make some more inquuies about this. A. small wooden instrument, beset with sharks' teeth, had been purchased ; and from Its resemblance to the saw or kuife used by the New Zealanders to disect the bodies of their enemies, it was suspected to have the same use here. One of the natives being asked about this., immediately gave the name of the instrument, and told us that it was used to cut out the tleshy nart of Uitt boUy when any person was killed. COOK'S VOYAGES. [Tot. IH. B. III. C?h. ik- This explained and confirmed the cir- cumstance above mentioned of the person pointing to his belly. The man, however, from whom we had this infnrmiifion, beintr asked if his countrymen eat the p-rt thus cut ou*", denied it strongly ; but, upon '.he question being repeated, showed some degree of fear and swam to his canoe. Just before he reacl'^id it, he made signs as he had done before, expres- sive of the use of the instrument. And an .Id man, who sat foremost in the canoe, being then asked whether they ate the flesh, answered in the affirmative, and laughed, seemingly a; the simplicity of such a question. He affirmed the fact on being asked again ; and also said it was excellent food, or, as he expressed it, "eavoury eating." At 7 o clock in the evening ihe boats returned, with two tons of water, a few hogs, a quantity of plan- tains, and some roots. Mr King in- formed me that a great number of the inhabitants were at the watering or landing-place. He supposed that they had come from all parts of the island. They had brought with them a great many fine fat hogs to barter ; but my people had not commodities with them equal to the purchase. This, however, was no great loss, for we had already got as many on board as we could well manage for imme- diate use ; and wanting the materials we could not havv" salted them. Mr King also told mc> that a great deal of rain had fallen ashore, whereas out at sea we had only a few showers ; and that the surf had run so high that it was with great difficulty our men landed and got back into the boats. We had light airs and calms by turns, mill showers of rain, all night ; and at daybreak in the morning of the 24th we fonnd that the currents had carried the ship to the NW. and N. ; so that the west end of the island, upon which we 1 ad been, called Atooi by the natives, bore E. one league uistaut ; another island, called Oree- houa, W. by S. ; and the high land of a third island, called Oueeheow, from SW. by W. to W3W. Soon after, a breeze sprang up at N. ; tiud us ] f bring the Ui*. 1778.] expected that this would Discovery to sea, I steered for Onee- heow, in order to take a nearer view of it, and to anchor there if 1 should find a convenient place. I continued to steer for it till past 11 o'clock, at which time we were about two leagues from it. But not seeing the Discovery, hi A being doubtful whether they could see us, I was fearful lest some ill con- sequence might attend our separating 80 far, I therefore gave up the design of visiting Gneeheow for the present, and stood bs,ck to Atooi, with an in- tent to anchor again in the road to complete our water. At 2 o'clock in the afternoon the northerly wind died away, and was succeeded by variable light airs and calms that continued till eleven at night, with which we stretched to the SE. till daybreak in the morning of the 25th, when we tacked and stood iu for Atooi road, which bore about N. from us ; and soon after we were joined by the Dis- covery. We fetched in with the land about two leagues to leeward of the road, which, though so near, we never could recover ; for what we gained at one time we lost at another, so that by the morning of the 29th the cur- rents had carried us westward within three leagues of Oneeheow. ^ieing *ired w' «h plying so unsuccessfully, I gave up all thoughts of getting back to At( oi, and came to the resolution of trying whether we oould not procure what we wanted at the other island^ which was within our reach. With this view I sent the master in a boat to sound the coast, to look out for a landing-place, and, if he should find one, to examine if fresh water could be conveniently got in its neighbourhood. To give him time to execute his com- mission, wo followed under an easy sail with the ships. At 10 o'clock the master returned, and reported that he had landed in one place but could find no fresh water ; and that fiiere was anchorage all along the coast. Seeing a village a little farther to leeward, and some of the islanders who had come off to the ships inform- ing us that fresh water might be got there, I ra» down and came to an THE NATIVES OF ONEEHEOW. 229 anchor before it, in twenty -six fathoms water, about three-quarters of a mile from the shore. Six or seven canoes had come off to us before we anchored, bringing some small pigs and potatoes, and a good many yams anu mats. The j>eople in them resembled those of Atooi, and seemed to be equally well acquainted with the use of iron, which they asked for also by the names of *' hamaite " and "toe;" parting readily with all their commodities for pieces of this precious metal. Several more canoes boon reached the ships after they had anchored, but the natives in these seemed to have no other object than to pay us a formal visit. Many of them came readily on board, crouch- ing down upon the deck, and not quitting that humble postore till they were desired to get up. They had brought several females with them, who remained alongside in the canoes, behaving with far less modesty than their countrywomen of Atooi ; and at times all joining in a song not re- markable for its melody, though per- formed in very exact concert by beating time upon their breasts with their hands. The men who had come on board did not stay long ; and be- fore they departed some of them requested our permission to lay down on the deck locks of their hair. These visitors furnished us with an opportunity of agitating again this day the curious inquiry whether they were cannibals, and the subject did not take its rise from any questions of our?, but from a circumstance that seemed to remove all ambiguity. One of the islanders who wanted to get in at the gun-room port was refused, and at the same time asked whether, if he should come in, we would kill and eat him, accompanying this question with signs so expressive that there could bo no doubt about his meaning. This gave a proper opening to retort the question as to this practice ; and a person behind the other in the cano , who paid great attention to what wjia passing, immediately answered that if we were killed on shore they would certainly eat ua. He spoke with so \v 4k.?J WF r t n 1 •:il| 2b0 little emotion that it appeared plainly to be his meaning that they would not destroy us for that purpose, but that their eating us would be the con- se(juence of our boiug at enmity with them. I haveavailedmyself of Mr An- derson's collections for the decision of this matter, and I am sorry to say that I cannot see the least reened to our people who lutd landed with Mr Gore, the communi- cation between them and the shi[)3 by our own boats being soon sto]>ped. In LiiC evening they made a signal for the boats, which were sent accord- ingly ; and not long after they returned with a few yams and some salt. A tol<^rable quan .y of both had been procured in the course of the day, but the surf was so gi*eat that the greatest {)art of both these articles had been ost in conveying them to the l^oats. The officer and twenty men, deterred by the danger of coming olf, were left t^shoi-e all night ; and by this unfor- tunatecircumstancetheveiy thing hap- peiisd which, as I have already men- tioned, 1 wished so heartily to prevent, and vainly imagined I had effectually guarded against The violence of the COOK'S VOYAGES, [Toy. III. B. III.Ch. XI. aurf, which our own boats could not act against, did not hinder the uatirea from coming off to the ships in their canoes. Tl'ey brought refreshments with them, which were purchased in exchange for nails and pieces of iron hoops ; and I distributed a good many pieces of ribbon and some buttons as bracelets amongst the women in the canoes. One of the men had the figure of a lizard punctured upon his breast, and upon those of others were the ligures of men badly imitated. These visitors infor;:.';d us that ther? was no chief, or " Htiiree," of this island, but that it was subject to Teueooneoo, a chief of Atooi ; which island, they said, was not governed by a single chief, but that there were many to whom they paid the honour of "moe," or prostration ; and among others they named Otaeaio and Terarotoa. Amongst other things which these people now brought off was a small di'uui, cilun.si liiA- u.osi' of Otulieite. About 10 or 11 o'clock at night the wind veered to the soutn, and the sky seemed to forebode a storm. With such appearances, thinking that we were rather too near the shore, I ordered the anchors to be taken up ; and having carried the ships into forty-two fathoms, came to again in that safer station. The precaution, however, proved to be unnecessary, for the wind soon afterveer.-d toNNE., from which quarter it olew a fresh gale, with squalls, attended with very heavy shovvera of rain. This weather continued all the next day, and the sea ran so high that we had no man- ner of communication with our party on shore ; and even the natives them- selves durst not venture out to the shiiis in their canoes. In the evening 1 sent the master in a boat up to the soulli-east head or point of the island to try if he could land umler it. He returned with a favourable report; but it was too late now to send for our party till the next morning, and thus they had another night to im- prove their intercourse with the natives. Encouraged by th« mafiter's report, I sent a boat to the south-east point as soon as daylight returned Kbb. ITTSJ ACCOUNT OF WHAT PASSED ON LANDING. 231 with an order to Afr Gore if he could ^ot embark his p^ "ple from the spot where they now were to march them «!> to the point. As the boat could jiut got to the be;ic]i, one of the crew swam ashore ami carrieed round them, reaching from just be- ow the breasts to the hams, or lower ; and several were seen with pieces thrown loosely about the shoulders, which covered the greatest part oi' the body ; but tho children, when very young, are quite naked. They wear nothhig upon the liead, but the hair In both sexes is cut in dlHcrent forms ; and the general fashion, espe- cially among the women, is to have it long before, and short behind. The men often had rt cut or shaved on each side, in such a manner that the remaining part in some measure resembles the crest of their caps or helmets formerly described. Both sexes, however, seem very careless about their hair, and have nothing like combs to dress it with. Instances of wearing it in a siiiijular manner were sometimes met with among the men, who twist it into a number of separate parcels, like the tails of a wig, each about the thickness of a finger, though tho greatest part of these, which are so long that they reach far down the back, we observed were artificially fixed upon the head over their own hair. It is remarkable that, contrary to the general practice of the islands we had hitherto discovered in the Pacific Ocean, the people of the Sandwich Islands have not their ears perforated, nor have they the lea.st idea of wear- ing ornaments in them. Both sexes, nevertheless, adorn themselves with necklaces made of bunches of small black cord, like our hat-string, often above a hundred- fold, exactly like those of Wateeoo, only that instead of the two little balls, on the middle before, they fix a small bit of wood, stone, or shell, about two inches long, with a broad hook, turning forward at its lower part, well polished. They have likewise neck laces of m any strings of very small shells, or of the dried flowers of the Indian mallow ; and sometimes a small human image of bone, about three inches long, neatly polished, is hung round th< '.eclc. The women also wear bracelets of a single shell, pieces of black wood witli bits of ivory interspersed, and well polished, fixed by a string dravm very close througli them ; or others of hogs' teeth, laid jtaralh'l to each other, with the concave part outward, and the points cut oil", fastened to- gether as the former ; some of which, made only of largo boars' tusks, are very elegant. The men sometimes wear plumes of the tropic birds' feathers stuck in their heads, or those of cocks f:istei;ed round neat i)olished sticks two feet long, commonly de- corated at the lower part with ** oora ;" and, for the same purpose, the skin of a white dog's tail is sewed over a stick, with its tuft at the end. They also frequently wear on the head a kind of ornament of a -ringer's thickness or more, covered with red and yellow feathei-s, curiously varied, and tied behind ; and on the arm, above the elbow, a kind of broad shell-work grounded upon net-work. The men are frequently punctured, though not in any particjilar part, as the Otaheiteans and those of Tonga- taboo. Sometimes there are a few marks upon their hands or arms, and near the groin; but frequently we could observe none at all, thougn a few individuals had more of thij sort of ornament than we had usuall/ seen at other places, and ingeniously executed in a great variety of lines and figures on the arms and forepart of the body, on which latter some of them had the figure of the " taame," or breastplate of Otaheite, though we did not meet with the thing itself amongst them. Though they seem to have adopted the mode of living in villages, there is no appearance of defence or fortifi- cation near any of them ; and the houses are scattered about without any order either with respect to their distances from each other, or their position in any particular direction. Neither is there any projMjrtion as to their size ; some being large and com- modious, from forty to fifty feet long and twenty or tu.rty broad, while others of them are mere hovels. Their 2{i6 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. III. Ch. XII il 'i i :M In figure is not unliko oblong com or bay stacks ; or perhaps a better idea may be conceived of them if wo sup- pose the roof of a bam jjlaced on the ground in such a manner as to foi-m a high, aciite ridge, with two very low sides hardly discernible at a dis- tance. The gable at each end, cor- responding to the sides, makes these habitations perfectly close all round ; and they are well thatched with long grass, which is laid on slender poles, disposed with some regularity. The entrance is made indilferently in the end or side, and is an oblong hole so low that one must rather creep tlian walk in, and is often shut up by a board of planks fastened together, which serves as a door, but having no hinges, must be removed occa- sionally. No light enters the house but by this opening; and though such close habitations may afford a comfortable retreat in bad weather, they seem but ill-adapted to the warmth of the climate. They are, however, kept remarkably clean, and their floors are covered with a large quantity of dried grass, over which tliey spread mats to sit and sleep upon. At one end stands a kind of bench about three feet high, on which their household utensils are placed. The catalogue is not long. It con- sists of gourd-shells, which they con- vert into vessels that serve as bottles to hold water, and as baskets to con- tain their victuals and other things, with covers of the same ; and ot a few wooden bowls and trenchers of different sizes. Judging from wliat we saw growing, and from what was brought to market, there can be no doubt that the greatest part of their vegetable food consists of sweet pota- toes, ** taro," and plantains, and that bread-fruit and yams are rather to be esteemed rarities. Of animal food they can be in no want, as they have abundance of hogs, which run without restraint about the houses ; and if they eat dogs, which is not improb- able, their stock of these seemed to be very c nsiderable. The great number c ^shing-hooks found among tlnKTi ahovted that they derive uo in- considerable supply of animal food from the sea. But it should seeis, from their practice of salting fish, that the openness of cheir coast often interrupts the business of catching them ; as it may be naturally sup])08ea that uo set of people would ever think of preserving quantities of food arti- ficially if they could dej>end upon • daily regular supply of it in its fresh state. This sort of reasoning, bow- ever, Avill not account for their custom of salting their pork as well as their fish, which are preserved in gourd- shells. The salt, of which they use a gieat quantity for this purpose, is of a red colour, not very coarse, and seems to be much the same with what our stragglers found at Christmas Island. It has its colour, doubtless, from a mixture of the mud at the bottom of the part where it is formed ; for some of it tliat had adhered in lumps was of a sufficient whiteness and purity. They bake their vegetable food with heated stones as at the Southern Is- lands ; and from the vast quantity which we saw dressed at one time, we suspected that the whole village, or at least a considerable number of people, joined in the use of a common oven. We did not see them dress any animal food at this island, bat Mr Gore's party, as already men- tioned, had an opportunity of satis- fying themselves that it was dressed in Oneeheow in the same sort of ovens, which leaves no doubt of this being also the practice in Atooi, es- pecially as we met with no utensil there that could be applied to the purpose of stewing or ooiling. The only artificial dish we met with was a *• taro " pudding, which, though a disagreeable mess from its sourness, was greedily devoured by the natives. They eat off a kind of wooden plates or trenchers ; and the women, as far as we could judge from one instance, if restrained from feeding at the same dish with the men, as at Otaheite, are at least {Mrmitted to eat in the same place near them. Their amusements seem prettv vari* cos, for during our stay several were Feb. 1778.] AMUSEMENTS OF THE NATIVES. discovered. The dances at which i in their diversions. they use the feathered cloaks and caps were not seen ; but from the motions which they made with their hands on other occasions when they sang, we could form sonic judgroent that they are in some degree at least similar to those we had met with at the Southern Islands, though not executed so skilfully. Neither had tliey amongst them either iiutes or reeds ; and the only two musical in- struments which we observed were of an exceedingly rude kind. One of them does not produce a melotly ex- ceeding that of a child's rattle. It consists of what may be culled a conic cap inverted, but scarcely hollowed at the base above a foot high, made of a coarse sedge-like plant ; the upper part of which and the edges are or- namented with beautiful red feathers, and to the point or lower part is fixed a gourd -shell larger than the list. I nto this is put something to rattle, which is done by holding the instrument by the small part, and shaking or rather moving it from plaoo to place briskly, either to different sides, or backward and forward just before the face, strik- ing the breast with the other hand at the same time. The other musical instrument (if either of them deserve that name) was a hollow vesse? of wood like a platter, combined with the use of two sticks, on which one of our gentlemen saw a man perform- ing. He held one of the sticks, about two feet long, as we do a fiddle, with one hand, and struck it with the other, which was smaller and re- sembled a drumstick, in a quicker or slower measure; at the same time beating with his foot upon the hollow vessel that lay inverted upon the ground, and thus producing a tune that was by no means disagreeable. This music was accompanied by the vocal performance of some women, whose song had a pleasing and tender eflfect. We observed great numVters of small polished rods abont four or five feet long, somewhat thicker than the rammer of a musket, with a tuft of long white dogs' hair fixed on the 4uudi eiiiLi TWmc are probably used 237 We saw A pcrsoB take one of them in his hand, and, holding it up, give a smart stroke till he brought it into a horizontal posi- tion, striking with the foot on the same side upon the ground, and with his other hand beating his breast at the same time. They play at bowls with pieces of whetstone of about a pound weight, shaped somewhat like a small cheese, but rounded at the sides and edges, which are very nicely polisheil ; and they have other bowls of the same sort, made of a heavy reddish brown clay, neatly glazed over with a composition of the same colour, or of a coarse, dark grey slate. They also use, in the manner that we throw quoits, small, flat, rounded pieces of the writing slate, of the diameter of the bowls, but scarcely a quarter of an inch thick, also well polished. From these circumstances one' would be induced to think that their games are rather trials of skill than of strength. In everything manufactured by these people there ap^iears to be an uncom- mon degree of neatness and ingenuity. Their cloth, which is the princif»l manufacture, is made from the Monu papyri/era, and doubtless in the same manner us at Otaheite and Tongata- boo ; for we bought some of the grooved sticks with which it is beaten. Its texture, however, though thicker, is rather inferior to that of the cloth of either of the other places ; but in colouring or staining it the [)eopIe of Atooi display a superiority of taste, by the endless variation of figures which they execute. One would sup- pose, on seeing a number of their pieces, that they had bonowed their patterns from some mercer's shop in which the most elegant productions of China and Europe are collected , besides some original patterns of their own. Their colours, indeed, except the red, are not very bright ; but the regulaiity of the figures and stripes is truly surprising, for, as far as wo knew, they have nothing like stamps or prints to make the impressions. In what manner they produce their colours we had not opportonities 1, t 2o8 of learning; but besides tlio party- coloured sorts tlioy have soino pieces of plain white cloth, and dthers of a siii^'le colour, paiticularly daiU brown and liglit blue. In general, the pieces which they brought to us wcro about two feet broad, and four or five feet long, being the form and quantity that they use for their common dress or " maro ;" cud even these we some- times found were composed of pieces sewed together, an art which we did not find to the southward, bl^• is strongly thoKgli not very neatly per- formed here. There is also a part icu- lar sort that is thin, much resembling oil-cloth ; antl which is actually either oiled or soaked in some kind of var- nish, and seems to resist the action of water i)retty well. They fabricate a great many white mats, which are strong, with many red stripes, rhom- buses, and other figures interwoven on one side, and often pretty large. These, probably, make a part of their dress occasionally; for they i)Ut them on their backs when they oiferod them for sale. But they make others coarser, plain and strong, which they spread over their floors to sleep upon. They stain their gourd-shells pret- tily with undulated lines, triangles, and other figures of a black colour, instances of which we saw practised at Now Zealand. And they seem to possess the art of varnishing ; for some of these stained gourd -shells are covered with a kind of lacquer ; and on other occasions they use a strong size, or gluey substance, to fasten their things together. Their wooden dishes and bowls, out of which they drink their "ava,"areof the "etooa" tree, or cordia, as neat as if made in our turning-lathe, and perhaps better polished. And amongst their articles of handicraft may be reckoned small ••quare fans of mat or wicker-work, vith handles tajjering from them of Jhe same, or of wood, whicli are neatly vrought with small cords of hair and 5bres of the cocoa-nut coir intennixed. The great variety of fishing-hooks are ingeniously made ; some of bone, etbprs of wood pointed with bone, wni many of jieari shell. Of the Inst, COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoY.III. B.TII.Cn. XIL some are like a sort that wc saw at Ton- gata])oo ; and others simply curved, as the common sort at Otaheite, as well as the wooden ones. The bones aro mostly small, and comi'oseii of two pieces ; and all the diU'croiit sorts have a barb, cither on the inside like ouri, or on the outside opposite the sanja part ; but others have both, the outer one being farthest from the point. Of this laat sort one was ]trocnred, nine inches l«ng, of a single piece of bone, which doubtless belonged to some largo fish. The elegant form and polish of this could not certainly be outdone by any European artist, even if he should add all his know- ledge in design to the number and convenience of his tools. They polish their stones by constant friction with immicc-stone in water ; and such of their working instruments or tools as 1 saw resembled those of the Southern Islands. Their hatchets, or rather adzes, were exactly of the same pat- tern, and either made of the same sort of blackish stone or of a clay-coloured one. They have also little instru- ments made of a single shark's tooth, some of which are fixed to the fore- part of a dog's jaw-bone, and others to a thin wooden handle of the same sha[>e ; and at the other end there is a bit of string fastened through a small perforation. These servo sis knivea occasionally, and are perhaps used in carving. The only iron tools, or rather bita of iron, seen amongst them, and which they had before our arrival, weio a piece of iron hoop about two inches long, fitted into a wooden handle ;* and another edge-tool which our people guessed to be made of the point of a broad-sword. Their having the actual possession of these, and their so gene- rally knowing the use of this metal, inclined some on board to think that we had not been the first European visitors of these islands. But it seems to me that the very great st.rprise ex- pressed by them on seeing our ships, and their total ignorance of the use of ^ Captain King purchased this, and brought it to England. i i \ Feb. 1773.] THEIR KNOWT-EDOF. flre-arms, cannofc be reconciled with such a notion, Tiiere are nmiiy ways by which such {)eople may ,t,'et nieces of iron, or uccjuiro the kno\v|pi(<»e of the existence of such a metal, withont ever having ha' I an imuMdintr' con- nection with nations that n.s»> it. It can hanlly be doubted that it was unknown to all the inhabit-.nts of this sea before M;igellan led the way into it ; for no discoverer, immediately after his voyaf^e, ever found any of this nietul in their possession, though in the course of our late voyajjes it has been observed that the use of it was known at several islands to which no former European ships had ever, as far aa we know, found tneir way. At all the places where Mendana* touched in his two voyages, it nnist have been seen and left ; and this would extend the knowledge of it, no doubt, to all the various islands with which those whom ht; had visited had any imme- diate intercourse. It might even be carried farther ; and where specimens of this article conld not be procureook II., Chapter X., p. 1.51. • Believed to be the Palliser's Islc!» of English maps. The wreck hap]>en.-5d in 172'2. vl il I, I 240 tJOOK'S VOYAGES. Islands, whom we found at Wateeno, had been driven thither long after the knowledf^'e and nse of iron had been introduced amongst tlieir oouiitry- men ; and though probably they hud no specimen of it with tliem, they would naturally and with ease com- municate at that island their know- ledge of this valuable material by description. From the peo])le of Wateeoo, again, those of Ilervey's Island might derive that desire to possess some of it, of which we had proofs during our short intercourse with them. . . . The verj' short and imperfect inter- course which we had with the natives put it out of our power to form any accurate judgment of the mode of government established amongst them, but from the general" resemblance of customs, and narticularly from what we observed of the honours paid to their chiefs, it seems reasonable to believe that it is of the same nature with that which prevails throughout all the islands we had hitherto visited, and probably their wars amongst theiBselves are equally frequent. This indeed, might be inferred from the number of weapons which we found them possessed of, and from the ex- cellent order these were kept in. But we had direct proof of the fiict from their own confession, and as we under- stood these wars are Itetweon thedilfer- ent districts of their own island , as well as between it and their neiglilioius at Oneeheow and Orrehoua, Wo need scarcely assign any other cause besides this to account for the appearance, already mentioned, of their population bearing no proportion to the extent of their ground capable of cultivation. Besides their spears or lances, made of a fine chesuut-coloured wood beauti- fully polished, some of which are barbed at one end and flattened to a point at the other, they have a sort of weapon which we had never seen before, and not mentioned by any navigator as used by the natives of the South Sea. It is somewhat like a dagger, in general about a foot and a half long, sharpened at one or both mda, and veciired to the hat:d by a [VoT.III.B.ITI.ry.XTI. string. Its use is to stab at cloM fight, and it seems well adapted to the puri)Ose. Some of these may be called double daggers, having a handle in the middle, with which they are b«;tter enabled to strike different ways. They have also bows and arrows; but both from their a[ipar- ent scarcity and their slender make it may almost be presumed that they never use them in battle. The knife or saw formerly mentioned, with which they dissect the dead bodies, may also be ranked amongst their weapons, as thev both strike and cut with it when closely engaged. It is a small flat wooden instrument of an oblong shape, about a foot long, rounded at tne corners, with a handle almost like one sort of the "patoos" of New Zealand; but its edges are entirely surrounded with sharks' teeth strongly fixed to it, and point- ing outward, having commonly a hole in the handle through which passes a long string which is wianped several times round the wrist. VVe also sus- pected that they uss slings on some occasions ; for we got some pieces of the hcBmatites or blood-stone, artifici- ally made of an oval shape, divided longitudinally, with a narrow groove in the middle of the convex part. To this the person who had one of them applied a cord of no great thickness, but would not part with it, though he had no objection to part with the stone; which must prove fatal when thrown with any force as it weighed a pound. We likewise saw some oval pieces of whetstone well polished, but somewhat pointed toward each end, nearly resembling in shape some stones which we had seen at New Caledonia in 1774, and used there in their slings. What we could learn of their relig- ious institutions, and the manner of disposing of their dead, which may properly be considered as closely con- nected, has been already mentioned. And as nothing more strongly points out the affinity between the manners of these people and of the Friendly and Society Islands, I must just mention some other oircumatttncett tv I f KB. 1778.] LANGUAGE OP TONOATAHOU AND OTAlIElTE. 2»i place this in a strong loiiii of view; and at the snmo time to show huw a few of the infinite modifications of wliioh a few leading principles aro capiible, may distinguislj any particu- lar nation. The people of Tong.ita- boo inter their dead in a very dcrent manner, and they also iutor their human sacrifices; but they do not ofl'er or expose any other animal or even vegetable to their gods, as far as we know. Those of Otaheite do not inter their dead, but expose them to waste by time and putrefaction though the bones are afterward buried; and as this is the case, it is very remark- able that they should inter the entire bodies of their human sacrifices. They also offer other animals and vegetables to their gods, but are by no means attentive to the state of the sacred places where those solemn rites are performed; most of their " morais " being in a ruinous condi> tion and bearing evident marks of neglect. The people of Atooi, again, inter both their common dead and human sacrifices as at Tongataboo; but they resemble those of Otaheite in the slovenly state of their religi- ous places, and in offering vegetables and animals to their gods. The " taboo " also prevails in Atooi in its full extent, ana seemingly with much more rigour than even at Tongata- boo. For the people here always asked, with great eagerness and signs of fear to offend, whether any particu- lar thing which they desired to see, or we were unwilling to show, was "taboo," or, as they pronounced the word, "tafoo." The "maia raa," or forbidden articles, at the Society Islands, though doubtless the same thing, did not seem to be so strictly observed by them, except with re- spect to the dead, about whom we thought them more superstitious than any of the others were. But these are circumstances with which we are not as yet sufficiently acquainted to bo decisive a'.' ut; and I shall only just observe, to show the similitude m other matters connected with re- ligion, that the priests or "tahounas" here, are as numerous as at the other islands, if wo may jud^'o from owi being able, during our stay, to dis- tinguish several saying their "pooro" or prayer. Hut whatever resemblance we might discover, in the general manners of the i)cople of Atooi, to those of Ota- heite, these of course were less strik- ing than the coincidttico of language. Indeed, the languages of both places may be said to be almost word for word tlie same. It is true that we sometimes remarked paiiiicular words to be pronounced exactly as we had found at New Zealand and the Friendly Islands ; but though all the four dialects are indisputably the same, these, people in general have neither the strong guttural pronunci- ation of the former, nor a less degree of it which also distinguishes the latter ; and they have not only adopt- ed the soft mode of the Otaheitoans in aroiding harsh sounds, but t^e whole idiom of their language, using not only t Im same affixes and suffixes to their words, but the same measure and cadence in their songs, though in a manner somewhat less agreeable. There seems indeed, at first nearing, some disagreement to the ear of u stranger ; but it ought to be con- sidered that the people of Otaheite^ from their frequent connections with the English, had learned in some meastire to adapt themselves to our scanty knowledge of their language, by using not only the most common but even cormpted expressions in conversation with ns ; whereas when they conversed among themselves, p id used the several parts necessary to propriety of speech, they were scarcely at all understood by those amongst us who had made the greatest proficiency in their Tocabulary. How shall we account for this nation's having spread itself in n many detached islands so vridely dis- joined from each oLher in every quarter of the Pacific Ocean ? We find it from New Zealand in the south as far as the Sandwich Islands to the north ; and, in another direction, froia Easter Island to the Hebrides, that is, over an extent of sixty degrees of ■ ii < 1 n2 COOK'S VOYAGES. FVot. HI. B. TIL Ch. Xlll r I IJ i latitude or 1200 leagues north and Ronth, and eighty-three degrees of longitude or 1660 leagues east and west. How much farther in eitlier direction its colonies reach, is not known; but what we know already, in consequei'-ce of this and our former voyage, warrants our pronouncing it to be, though perhaps not the most nmnerous, certainly by far the most extensive nation upon earth. Had the Sandwich Islands been dis- covered at an early period by the Spaniards, there is little doubt that tney would have taken advantage of so excellent a situation, and have made use of Atuoi or some other of the islands as a refreshing-place for the ships that sail annually from Acapulco fcr Manilla. They lie almost midway between the first place and Guam, one of the Ladrones, which is at present their only port in tra- versing this vast ocean ; and it would tot have been a week's sail out of their common route to have touched at them, which could have been doi.a without running the least hazard of losing the passage, as they are suSi- ciently within the verge of the easterly trade-wind. An acquaintance with the Sandwich Islands would have been equally favourable to our Buc- janeers, who used sometimes to pass from the coast of America to the Ladrones with a stock of food and water scarcely sufficient to preserve Ufe.* Here they might always have found plenty, and have been within a month's sure sail of the very part of California which the Manilla ship is obliged to make,' or else have re- turned to the coast of America, thoroughly refitted, after an absence of two months. How happy would Lord Anson have been, and what hardships would he have avoided, if he had known that there was a group of islands half way between America and Tinian, Tvhere all his wants could * "Witness Dampier's description of the weary and perilous passage, ' Cape San LuMi, tho southernmost J^int. have been effectually supplied, and in describing which the elegant his- torian of that voyage would have pre- sentod his reader with a more agree- able picture than I have been able to draw iu this Chapter ?' CHAPTER XIII. After the Discovery bad joined ua, we stood away to the northward, close hauled, with a gentle gale from the east. On the 7th, being in the Latitude of 29" N. , and in the Longi- tude of 200° E., the wind veered to SE. This enabled us to steer NE. and E., which course we continued till the 12th, when the wind had veered round by the S. and vV^. to NE. and ENE. I then tacked and stood to the northward, our Latitude being 30° N., and our Longitude 206" 15' E. Notwithstanding our advanced latitude, and its being the winte* season, we had only begun for a few days past to feel a sensation of cold in the mornings and evenings. Thia is a sign of the equal and lasting in- fluence of the sun's heat at all seasons to 30' on each side the Line. The disproportion is known to become very great after that. This must be attributed almost entirely to the direc- tion of the rays of the sun, independ- ent of the bare distance, which is by no means equal to the effect. On the 19th, being now in the Latitude of 37° N., and in the Longi- tude ( 206° E., the wind veered to SE. ; and I was enabled again to steer to the E., inclining to the N, » W'.th all deference to Mr Walter, the Narrator of Anson's voyage — or to Captain Cook's self-humbling esti- mate of his own performance, we think most will prefer the plain un- varnished tale, full of new and in- teresting facts, told by the unlettered sailor to the eloquent flourishes of the Centurion's Chaplain, whose glowiu)^ descriptions of Tinian were sailly dis- credited by the subsequent experienc« and report of practical, prosaic mes. Mail 1778.] PROSECUTIOIT OF V We had on the 25th reached the latitude of 42° 30' and the Longitude of 219', and then we hegan to meet ?rith the rock-'w eed mentioned by the Wiitor of Lord Anson's voy;i;;o, ujider the name of sea-leek, which the Man- illa ships gt'r\erally fall in with. Now and then a piece of wood also appoau'd ; but if we had not known that the Continent of North America was not far distant, we might, from the few signs of tlie vicinity of Lnd hitlierto met .v^ith, liiive concluded that tlinie wasnonewitliiii some thousand leagues of us. "We hiid hardly seen a bird or any other oceanic animal since we left the Sandwich Islands. On the Iso of Match, our Latitude being now 44° 49' N., and our Longi- tude 228* R., wo had one calm day. This was succeeded by a wind from the north, with which I stood to the east, close hauled, in order to make the land. According to the charts, it ought not to have been far from us. It was remarkable that we should still be attended with such moderate and mild weather so far to the northward, and .so near the coast of an extensive contineut, at this time of the year. The present season either must be un- common for its mildness, or we can assign no reason why Sir Francis Drake should have met with such severe cold about this latitude in the month of June.** Viscaino, indeed, who waa near the same place in the depth of winter,' says little of the • Cook even understates the case again.st his own oxperieiire, for it was only in the i.atitudeof 38' 30' N. tliat Drake found the "convenient and tit harbour," where he continued from the 17th of June till the 23d day of July 1579, " during all which time we VFere constantly visited with like nip- ping colds as we had never felt before " — more intense than some of his people had felt at Wardhys, in 72°, not at the height of summer, but at the end of it. See ajiie, pp. 73, 75. • Sent from Acapidco in May 1602 to search the Californian coast for a secure harbour in which tae galleons OYAGE NORTHWARD. J43 cold, and speaks of a ridge of snowy mountains somewhere on the coast aa a thing rather remarkable. Our see- ing so few birds in comparison of what we met with In the same lati- tudes to the south of the Line, is another singular circumstance, which must either proceed from a scarcity of the ditforent sorts or from a deficiency of places to rest upon. From henco we may conclude that beyond 40° in the southern hemisidieve the species are much more numerous, and the isles where they inhabit also more plentifully scattered about than any- where lietween the coast of California and Japan iu or near that latitude. During a calm on the morning of the 2d, some parts of the sea seemed ''overed with a kind of sljme, and some small sea animals were swim- ming about, the most conspictious of which were of the gelatinous or Medusa kind, almost globular ; and another sort smaller, that had a white or shining appearance, and were very numerous. Some of these last were taken up ami put into a glass cup with some salt water, in which they appeared like small scales or bits of silver when at rrst in a prone situa- tion. When they began to swisa about, which they did with equal ease upon their back, sides, or belly, they emit ted the brightest colours of the most precious gems, ai-cording to their position with respect to the light. Sometimes they appeared quite })ellucid, at other times assuming various tints of blue, from a pale sapphiiine to a deep violet colour, wliich were ■"'■equently mixed with a ruby or op'dino redness, and glowed with a strength sullicient to illuminate the vessel and water. These colours ajipeared most vivid when the glass was held to a strong light, and mostly vanished on the subsiding of the ani- mals to the bottom, when they had a brownish cast. But with candb light the colour was chieHy a ^'autiful pale green, tinged with a burnished glass ; and in the dark ii; had a faint might find refuge. The settlement and fortification of Monterey was the result. '!' i i !5 I II ;f, 244 COOK'S VOYAGES. appearance of glowing fire. They proved to be a new species of Oniscus, and from their properties were by Mr Anderson (to wnom we owe this ac- count of them) called Oniscttsfulgens, being probably an animal which has a share in producing some sorts of that lucid appearance often observed uear ships at sea in the ni^ht. On the same day two large bircb settled on the water near the ship. One of those was the Procellaria maxima (the "quebrantahuesos"^), and the other, wnich was little more than half the size, seemed to be of the albatross kind. The upper part of the wings and tip of the tail were black, with the rest white ; the bill yellowish ; upon the whole not unlikb the sea- gull, though larger. On the 6th at noon, being in the Latitude of 44° 10' N. and the Longi- , tude of 2344° £., we saw two sails and several whales ; and at daybreak I the next morning the long-looked-for ! coast of New Albion' was seen, ex- tending from NE. to SE., distant ten t or twelve leagues. At noon our Lati- I tude was 44 33' N. and our Longi- \ tude 235" 20' E.; and the land ex- I tended from NE. half N. to SE. by I S., about eight leagues distant. In 5 this situation we had seventy-three I fathoms water over a muddy bottom, \ and about a league farther off found ninety fathoms. The land appeared to be of a moderate height, diversified with hills and valleys, and almost everywhere covered with wood. There ^vas, however, no very striking object on any part of it except one hill, whose elevated summit was flat. This bore east from us at noon. At the northern extreme the land formed a point, which I called Cape Foul- weather, from the very bad weather that we soon after met with. I judge ^ The Spanish name for the sea- eagle, or osprey ; literally, *' the bone- breaker;" Latin, " ossifrago," so called from the great strength of its beak. • This part of the west side of North /jnerica was so named by Sir Francis Drake in 1579. [V0T.III.B.III.CH.XIII. it to lie in the Latitude of 44° 65' U. and in the Lon^tude of 236° 64' E. We had variable light airs and calms till 8 o'clodk in the evening, when a breeze sprung up at SW. With it 1 stood to the NW. under an easy sail, waitirT for daylight to range alon^ the coast. But at four next morning the wind shifted to NW., and blew in squalls, with rain. Our course was NE. till near 10 o'clock, when, finding that I could make no progress on this tack, and seeing nothing like a harbour, I tacked and stood off SW. At this time Cape Foulweather bore NE. by N., about eight leagues distant. Towards noon the wind veered more to the W., and the weather became fair and clear, so that we were enabled to make lunar observations. Having reduced all those that we had made since the 19th of last month to the present ones, by the time-keeper, amounting in the whole to seventy-two sets, their mean result determined the Longitude to be 235° ±5' 26" E., which was 14' 11" less than what the time-keeper gnvek This longitude is made use of foi settling that of the coast, and I havf not a doubt of its being within a reiy few miles of the tnith. Our difficulties now began to in« crease. In the evening the wind came to the NW., blowing in squalls, with hail and sleet ; and the weather being thick and hazy, I stood out to sea till near noon the next day, when I tacked and stood in again for the land, which made its appearance at two in the afternoon, bearing ENE. The wind and weather continued the same, but in the evening the former veered more to the W., and the latter grew worse, which made it necessary to tack and stand off till four the next morning, when I ventured to stand in again. At four in the after- noon we saw the land, which at six extended from NE. half E. to SE. by S., about eight leagues distant. In this situation we tacked and sounded, but a line of 160 fathoms did not reach the ground. I stood off till midnight, then stood in again; and at half-past lix W4 wen wiuiin three thret Mab. 1778.5 APPEARANCE OP leagues of the land, which extended from N. by E. half E. to S. half E., each extreme about seven leagues dis- tant Seeing no signs of a harbour, and the weather being still unsettled, I tacked and stretched olf SW., having then fifty-five fathoms of water over a muddy bottom. That part of the land which we were so near when we tacked is of a moder- ate height, though in some places it rises higher within. It was diversified with a great many rising grounds and small hills, many of which were en- tirely covered with tall straight trees, and others, which were lower, and ^w in spots like coppices ; but the interspaces and sides of many of the rising grounds were clear. The whole, though it might make an agreeable summer prospect, had now an un- comfortable appearance, as the bare grounds toward the coast were all covered with snow, which seemed to be of a considerable depth between the little hills and rising grounds, and in several places towards the sea might easily have been mistaken at a distance for white cliffs. The snow on the rising grounds was thinner spread, and farther inland there was no appearance of any; from whence we might pprliaps conclude that what we saw towards the sea had fallen during the night, which was colder than any we had experienced since our arrival on the coast, and we had sometimes a kind of sleet. The coast seemed everywhere almost straight, without any opening or inlet ; and it Appeared to terminate in a kind of white sandy beach, though some on board thought that appearance was owing to the snow. Each extreme of the land that was now before us seemed to shoot out into a point. The north- ern one was the same which we had first seen on the 7th, and on that account I called it Cape Perpetua. It lies in the Latitude of 44° 6' N*. and in the Longitude of 235° 62' E. The southern extreme before as I named Cape Gregory.^ Its Latitude is 43" ^ In the English calendar the 7th of March is distinguished by the name AMERICAN COAST. 5:45 30' N. and its Longitude 235' 57' E., It is a remarkable point, the land of it rising almost directly from the sea to a tolerable height, while that on each side of it is low. I continued standing off till one in the afternoon. Then I tacked and stood in, hoping to have the wind off from the land in the night. But in this I was mistaken ; for at 5 o'clock it began to veer to the W. anc" S\V., which obliged me, once more, to stand out to sea. At this time Cape Per- petua bore NE. by N. ; and the tuv- thest land we could see to the south of Cape Gregory bore S. by E. , perhaps ten or twelve leagues distant. If I am right in this estimation, its Lati- tude will be 43° 10' N. and its Longi- tude 235° 55' E., which is nearly the situflion of Cape Blanco discovered or seen by Martin d'Aguilar on the 19th of January 1603. It is worth observing that in the very latitude where we now were geographers have been pleased to place a large entrance or strait, the discovery of which they take upon them to ascribe to the same navigator ; whereas nothing more is mentioned in the account of his voy- age than his having seen, in this situa- tion, a In. go rivf^r which he would have 6 red, but was prevented by the curreii d. The wind, as I h ive observed, had veered to the S\V. in the evening; but it was very unsettled, and > lew in squalls, with snow showers. In one of these, at midnight, it shift(3d at once to WNW., and soon ir reasod to a very hard gale, with heavy scjualls, attended with sleet or snow. There was no choice now ; and we were obliged to stretch to the southward ia order to get clear of the coast. ' "ais was done under courses and two oiose- reefed topsails, being rather more sail than the ships could safely bear ; but it was necessary to carry it to avoid the more pressing danger of being forced on shore. This gale continued till 8 o'clock in the morning of the 13th; when it abated, and I stood in again of Perpetua M., and the 12th by thai of Gregory B. H' ik 246 COOK'S VOYAGES, (Tot. III. B. III. Ch. XIU. I 1 ill = i) for the land. "We had beeD forced a considerable way backward ; for at the time of our tacking we were in tlie Latitude of 42° 45' and in the Longi- tude of 233° 30'. The wind continued at W. and NW., stonns, moderate weather, and calms, succeeding each other by turns till the morning of the Hist ; when, after a few Lours' calm, a breeze sprung up at SW. This bringing with it fair weather, I steer- ed NE, in order to fall in with the land beyond that part of it where we had already so unprotitably been tossed about for the last fortnight. In the evening the wind veered to the west- ward ; and at 8 o'clock the next morn- ing we saw the land, extending from NE. to £. nine leagues distant. At this time we were in the Latitiul'^ of 47° 6' N. and in the Longitude of 235' 10' E. I continued to stand to the north with a fine breeze at W. and WNW., till near 7 o'clock in the evening, when I tacked to wait for daylight. At this time we were in fbrty-eight fathoms water, and about four Iea'.,^ues from the land, which extended from N. to SE. half E., and a small round hill, which had the appearance of being an island, bore N. three-quar- ters £., distant six or seven leagues, as I guessed ; it 2 ppears to be of a tolerable height, and was but just to be seen from the deck. Between this island or rock, ? nd the northern ex- treme of the laud, there appeared to be a small opening, which flattered us with the ho])es of finding a har- bour. These hopes lessened as we drew nearer, and at last we had some reason to think that the opening was closed by low land. On this account I called the point of land to the north of it Cape Flattery. It lies in the Latitude of 48° 16' N., and in the Longitude of 235° 3' E. There is a round hill of a moderate height over it, and all the laud upon this pait of the coast is of a moderate and jnetty equal height, well covered with wood, and had a very pleasant and fertile appearant>o. It is in this V')ry latitude where we now were, that geographers have placed the pretcnearances, we were not yet sure that there were any inlets ; but, as we were in a deep bay, I resolved to anchor, with a view to endeavour to get some water, of which by this time we were in great want. At length, as we advanced, the existence of the inlet was nu longer THE NATIVES. 247 doubtful. At 5 o'clock we xwched the west point of it, where we were becalmed for some tinje. While in this situation I ordered all the boats to be hoisted out to tow the shijw in. But this was hardly done before a fresh breeze fipruugup ; ;ain at NW., with which we were enabled to stretch up into an arm of the inlet that was observed by us to run in to the north- east. There we were again becalmed, and obliged to anchor in eighty-five fathoms water, and so near the shore as to reach it with a hawser. The wind failed the Discovery before she got within the arm, where she anchor- ed, and found only seventy fathoms. We no sooner drew near the inlet than we found the coast to be in- habited ; and at the place where wt were first becalmed three canoes came off to the ship. In one of these were two men, in another six, and in the third ten. Having come pretty neai us, a person in one of the two last stood u]" and made a long harangue, inviting us to land, as we guessed bj his gestures. At the same time h« kept strewing haudliils of feather; towards us;* and some of his com panions threw haudluls of red dusl or powder in the same manner. The person who played the orator wore the skin of some animal, and held in each hand something which rattled as he kept shaking it. After tiring himself with his repeated exhorta- tions, of which we did not under- stand a word, he was quiet ; and then others took it by turns to say some- thing, though they acted their part neither so long nor with so much vehemence as the other. We observed that two or three had their hair quite strewed over with small white feathers, and others bad Itiige ones stuck into ditlerent parts of the head. After the tumultuous noise had ceased, *hey lay at a little distance from the ship, and conversed with each other in a very easy manner ; nor did they seem ^ The natives of this coast twelve degrees farther south, also brought feathers as presents to Sir Fraucin Drake on his arrival. Si .;) ^i! 'I ^ 'M i! I U 24 R to show the least rarprise or distrust. Some of them now and then got up and said something after the manner of their first harangues ; and one sung a very agreeahle air, with a degree of softness and melody which we could not have expected, the word "haela" being often repeated as the burden of the song. The breeze which soon after sprung up bringing us nearer to the shore, the canoes began to come off in greater numbers ; and we had at one time thirty-two of them near the ship, carrying from three to seven or eight Sersons each, both men and women, evcral of these stood up in their canoes haranguing and making gestures after the manner of our first visitors. One canoe was remarkable' for a singular head, which had a bird's eye and bill of an enormous size painted on it ; and a person who was in it, who seemed to be a chief, was no less re- markable for his uncommon appear- ance, having many feathers hanging from his head, and being painted in an extraordinary manner.^ He held in his hand a carved bird of wood, as large as a pigeon, with which he COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. IV. Cr. I rattled as the person first mentioned had done ; and was no less vociferous in his harangue, which was attended with some expressive gestures. Though our visitors behaved very peaceably, and could not be suspected of any hostile intention, we could net prevail uT)on any of them to come on board, "rhey showed great readiness, however, to part with anything they had, and took from us whatever we ofiered them in exchange ; but were more desirous of iron than of any other of our articles of commerce, appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the use of that metal. M any of the canoes fol- lowed us to our anchoring-place ; and a group of about ten or a dozen of them remained alongside the Resolu- tion most part of the night. These circumstances gave us a rea- sonable ground of hope that we should find this a comfortable station to sup- ply adl our wants, and to make us forget the hardships and delays ex- perienced during a constant sncces- sion of adverse winds and boisterous weather almost ever since oxvc arrival upon the coast of America. BOOK IV. TRANSACTIONS AMONGST THE NATIVES OP NORTH AMERICA J DIS- COVERIES ALONG THAT COAST, AND THE EASTERN EXTREMITY OP ASIA, NORTHWARD TO ICY CAPE ; AND RETURN SOUTHWARD TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. CHAPTER I. The ships having happily found so excellent shelter in an inlet, the coasts of which appeared to be inhabited by a race of people whose inoffensive ^ Viscaino met with natives on the coast of California, while he was in the harbour of San Diego, who were painted or besmeared with black and mrhite, and had their heads loaded fith feathers. behaviour promised a friendly inter- course, the next morning, after com- ing to anchor, I lost no time in en- deavouring to find a commodious harbour where we might station our- selves during our continuance in the sound. Accordingly )' sent three armed boats under the command of Mr King upon this service ; and soon after, I went myself ia a small boat on the same search. I had very little trouble in finding what we wanted. On the north-west of the arm we w^H Wak. 1778.] ARTICLES BKOrronT TO BARTER. 24d aow in, and not far from the shipa, I met with a convenient snng cove well suited to our purpose. JVlr King was equally successful ; for he returne witli the great- est freedom. We soon discovered by tliis nearer intercourse that they were as light-fingered as any of our friends in the islands we Lad visited in the course of the voyage. And they wore far more dangerous thieves, for pos- sessing sharp iron instruments, they could cut a hook from a tackle, or any other piece of iron from a rope, the instant that our backs were turned. A large hook weighing be- tween twenty and thirty pounds, several smaller ones, and other articles of iron, were lost in this manner ; and as to our boats, tliey stripped them of every bit of iron that was worth carrying away, though we had always men left in them as a guard. They weredextrous enough in eflectingthcir purpostc, for one fellow would con- trive to amuse the boat-keeper at one end of a boat, while another was fulling out the iron -work at the other. f we missed a thing immediately after it had been stolen we found little difficulty in detecting the thief, as they were ready enough to impeach one another. But the guilty person generally relinquished his prize witli reluctance, and sometimes we found it necessary to have recouise to force. The ships being securely moored, we began our other necessary business the next day. The observatories were carried ashore and ])laced upon an elevated rock on one side of the cove close to the Resolution. A party of men, with an officer, was sent to cut wood and to clear a place for the con- ▼eniency of watering. Others were employed to brew spruce-beer, as ])ine- trees abounded here. The forge was also set up to make the iron-work wanting for the repairs of the fore- mast. But, besides one of the bibs being defective, the laiboard trestle- ^i tree and one of the cross-trees were -is '; sprung. . . . "'i y^ After a fortnight's bad weather, the * .J Idth proving a fair day, we availed ourselves of it to get up the top-nuksts and yards, and to gut up the rigging. And having now finished moat of our heavy work, I set out the next morn- ing to take a view of the sound. 1 first went to the west point, where 1 found a large village, and before it a very snug harbour, in which was from niiio to four fathoms water over a bottom of fine sand. The people of this village, who were numerous, and to most of whom I was well known, received me very courteously; every one pressing me to go into his house, or, rather, his apartment, for several families live under the same roof. I did not decline the invitations, and my hospitable friends whom I visited spread a mat for me to sit upon, and snowed me every other mark of civility. In most of the houses were women at work making dresses of the plant or bark before mentioned, which they executed exactly in the same manner that the New Zealanders manufacture their cloth. Others were occupied in opening sardines. I had seen a large quantity of them brought on shore from canoes, and divided by measure amongst several people, who cjuried them up to their houses, where the operation of curing them by smoke- drying is performed. Tb^" hang them on small rods at first about a foot from the fire, afterward they remove them higher and higher to make room for others, till the rods on which the fish hang reach the top of the house. When they are completely dried, they are taken down and packed close in bales, which they cover with mats. Thus they are kept till wanted, and they are not a disagreeable article of food. Cod and other large fish are also cured in the same manner by them, though they sometimes dry these 111 the open air without fire. Fioni this village I proceeded up the west side of the sound. For about three miles I found the shore covered with small islands, which are so situ* ated as to form several convenient harbours, having various depths of water from thirty to seven fathoms, with a good bottom. Two leagues within the sound on this west aidet 1 i April 1778.] BEHAVIOUR OF NATIVES AT TREIR VILLAGES. 251 there runs in an arm in tlie direotiou of NNW. ; and two luik's faiilier ia anutlior nearly in the aajim direction, with a pretty large island before it. I had uo time to examine cither of these aims, but have reason to believe that they do not extend far inland, OS the water was no more than brackish at their entraucea. A nnle above the second arm I found the remains of a village. The lo^s or IVamings of the houses were standing, but the boards that had composed their sides and roofs did not exist. }3eforo tlds vil- la e were some large lisliing weirs, but I saw nobody attending them. These weirs were composed of pieces of wicker-work made of small rods, some closer than others, accortliiig to the size of the fish intendid to be caught in them. Tiieso jieccs of wicker-work (some of whose supei lioies are at least twenty feet by twelve) are fixed up edgewise in shallow water by strong poles or pickets that stand firm in the ground. Behind this ruined village is a plain of a few miles' ex- tent, covered with the largest pine- trees that I ever saw. This was the more remarkable Jis the elevated ground on most other parts of this west side of the sound was rather naked. From this place I crossed over to the other, or east siile of the sound, passing an arm of it that runs in NNE., to appearance not far. I now found, what 1 had before conjectured, that the land under which the ships lay was an i^^Iand, and that there wore many smaller ones lying scattered in the sound on the west side of it. Opposite the north end of our lai^^e island, upon the mainland, I ob- served a village, and there I landed. The inhabitants of it were not so polite as those of the other 1 had just visited. But this cold reception seemed in a great measure, if not en- tirely, owing to one surly chief, who would not let me enter their houses, following me wherever 1 went ; and several times by expressive signs marking his impatience that I should be 2one. I attempted in vain to Moiha him by presents, but thonjrh he did not refuse them, they did not alter his behaviour. Some of the young women, better ]>leased with lu than Wiis their iuho.-;[>iiabk' cliitf, diossed themselves expeditiously in their best apparel ; and, assumbliug in a body, welcomed us to their vilhtge by joining in a song which was f;ur from harsh or disagreeable. The da)' being now far spent, 1 proceedeil for the sliips round the north end of the large island, UK^eting in my way with several canoes laden ^nth sardintu which had been just caught some- where iu the east corner of the sinind. When I got on board, I was informed that v.-hilo I was absent the ships had been visited by some strangers in two or three large canoes, who by sij^ns made our people understand that they had come from the sontli-f-ast beyond tiie b.'iy. They brouL^ht strve- ral skins, garments, and other ui tiles, which they bartered. But, what was most singular, two silver table-s] toons were juirchased from them, which, from their peculiar shape, we supposed to be of Spanish manufacture. One of these strangers wore them round his neck by way of ornament. Thosa visitors also appeared to be more ]>lHn* tifully supplied with iron than tire inhabitants of the sound. The mizzen-mast being finished, it was got in and rigged on the 21st; and the carj>entevs were set to work to make a new fore-topmast to re- place the one that had been carried away some time before. Next morn* ing, about 8 o'clock, we were visited by a number of strangers in twelve or fourteen canoes. They came into the cove from the southward, and as soon as they had turned the point of it, they stopped and lay drawn up in a body above half-an-hour about 200 or 300 yanls from the ships. At first we thought that they were afraid to come nearer, but we were mistaken in this, and they were only preparing an in- troductory ceremony. On advancing toward the ships, they all stood up is their canoes and began to sing. Some of their songs, in which the whole body joined, were in a slow and others iu quic' 37 time; and they accom- 1 : il : \ ■•w n- w 262 COOK'S VOYAGES. [VoT. II!. B. IV. C». !. 1^ ii! I' l! I i j i panied thei/ iiotes with the most regu- lar motions of their hands, or beating in concert with their paddles on the sides of the canoes, and making other very expressive gestures. At the end of each song they remained silent a few seconds, and then began again, sometimes pronouncing the word *' hooee ! " forcibly, as a chorus. After entertaining us with this specimen of their music, which we listened to with admiration for above halfan- hour, they came alongside the ships and bartered what they had to dispose of. Some of our old friends of the sound were now found to be amonjjjt them, and they took the whole man- agement of the traffic between us and the strangers, much to the advantage of the latter. Our attendance on these visitors being finished. Captain Gierke and I went in the forenoon with two boats to the village at the west point of the sound. When I was there the day be- fore, I had observed that plenty of giass crew near it ; and it was necessary to lay in a quantity of this as food for the few goats and sheep which were still left on board. The inhabitants received us with the same demonstra- tions of friendship which I had ex- perienced before ; and the moment we landed I ordered some of my pteople to begin their operation of cut- ting. I haa not the least imagina- tion that the natives could make any objection to our furnishing ourselves with what seemed to bo of no use to them, but was necessary for us. However, I was mistaken ; for, the moment that our men began to cut, some of the inhabitants interposed, and would not permit them to proceed, saying they must "makook," that is, must first buy it. I was now in one of the houses, but as soon as I heard of this I went to the field, where I found about a dozen of the natives, each of whom laid claim to some part of the grass that grew in this place. I bargained with them for it, and having completed the purchase, thought we were now at liberty to cut wherever we pleased. But here again it appeared that I was under a mis- take, for the liberal manner in which I had paid the first pretended pro* prietors brought fresh demands upon me from others ; so that there did not seem to be a single blade of grass, that had not a separate owner, and so many of them were to be satisfied that I very soon emptied my pockets. When they found that I really had nothing more to give, their impor- tunities ceased, and we were permitted to cut wherever we pleased, and as much as we choose to carry away. Here I must observe that I have no« where in my several voyages met with any uncivilised nation or tribe who had such strict notions of their having a right to the exclusive pro- perty of everything that their country produces, as the inhabitants of this sound. At first they wanted our people to pay for the wood and water that they carried on board ; and had I been upon the spot when these de- mands were made, 1 should certainly have complied with them. Our work- men in my absence thought ditfer- ently, for they took but little notice of such claims ; and the natives, when they found that we were determined to pay nothing, at last ceased to apply. But they made a merit ol necessity ; and frequently afterwards took occasion to remind us that they had given us wood and water out of friendship.^ When we had completed all our operations at this village, the natives and we i)arted very good friends, and we got back to the ships in the after- noon. The three following days were em- ployed in getting ready to put to sea ; the sails were bent ; the observatories and instruments, brewing vessels, and other things were moved from the shore ; some small spars for different 1 Similar to the behaviour of the natives of Nootka on this occasion was that of another tribe of Indians farther north, in Latitude 57° 18', to the Spaniards who had preceded Cap- tain Cook only three years, in a voy- age to explore the coast of America northward of California. April 1778.] PRESKKTS GlVEr a!7T) KECEIVKD AT PAKTINO. 263 as nses, and pieces of timber which might be occasionally sawn into boards wei-o preimred and put on board ; and both ships were cleared and put into a sailing condition. Everything being now ready, in the morning of the 26th I intended to have put to sea ; but both wind and tide being against us, was obligetl to wait till noon, when the south-west wind was suc- ceeded by a calm, and, the tide turn- ing in our favour, we cast off the moorings, and with our boats towed the ships out of the cove. After this we had variable light airs and calms till four in the afternoon, when a breeze sprung up northerly, with very thick hazy weather. The mercury in the barometer fell unusually low ; and we had every other forerunner of an approaching storm, which we had reason to expect would be from the southward. This made nie hesitate a little, as night was at hand, whether I should venture to sail, or wait till the next morning. But my anxious impatience to proceed upon the voy- age, and the fear of losing this oppor- tunity of getting out of the sound, making a greater impression on my mind than any apprehension of im- mediate danger, 1 detennined to put to sea at all events. Our friends the natives attended us till we were almost out of the sound ; some on board the ships and others in their canoes. One of their chiefs, who had some time before attached himself to me, was amongst the last who left us. Having before he went bestowed upon him a small present, I received in return a beaver-skin of much greater value. This called upon me to make some addition to my present, which pleased him so much that he insisted upon my acceptance of the beaver-skin cloak which he then wore, and of which I knew he was particularly fond. Struck with this instance of generosity, and de- sirous that he should be no sufferer by his friendship to me, I presented to him a new broadsword with a brass hilt ; the possession of which made him completely happy. He, and also many others of his countrymen, im- portuned us much to pay them an- other visit ; and by way of encour- agement p- -^mised to lay in a good stock of hkins. I make no doubt that wlioever comes after me to this place will lind the natives prepared ac- cordingly, with no inconsidenible supply of an article of trade which, they could observe, we were eager to IK)ssess, and which we found could be purcliased to great advantage. Such particulars about the country and its inhabitants us came to our knowledge during otir short stay, and have not been mentioned in the course of the narrative, will furnish materials for the two following Chap- ters. CHAPTER IL - On my arrival in this inlet I had honoured it with the name of King George's Sound, but I afterwards found that it is called Nootka by the natives. The entrance is situated in the east corner of Hope Bay, in the Latitude of 49° 33' N. and in the Longitude of 233° 12' E. The east coast of that bay, all the way from Breakers Point to the entrance of tlie sound, is covered by a chain of sunken rocks that seemed to extend some distance from the shore ; and near the sound are some islands and rocks above water. We enter this sound between two rocky points that lie ESE. and WNW. from each other, distant be- tween three and four miles. Within these points the sound widens con- siderably, and extends in to the north- ward four leagues at least, exclusive of the several branches towards its bottom, the termination of which wo had not an opportunity to ascertain. But from the circumstance of finding that the water freshened wliere our boats crossed their entrance, it ia probable that they had almost reached, its utmost limits. And this proba- bility is increased by the hills that bounded it toward the land, being covered with thick snow, when those toward the Mea, or where we lay, had fc ' I 254 COOK'S VOYAOES. i iiol 4 spftck remaining (ui tliem, i Mniyh in general they wero much hii^her. In the middle of th« sound are a num- ber of islunds of vuiious sizes. TIio de]>th of water in tht; middle of the sound, and even closo hiiiiio to some parts of its shore, i.s froiji forty-seven to ninety futhoms, and pcrhfips more, 'i'he liarbourH and ancliorin^i,'- places within its circuit are numerou i, but •A'o had no time to survey them. The covo in whicli our ships lay is on the east side of the sound and on the oast aide of the hirgcst of the islands. It is covered I'rom the sea, but has little else to recommend it, being exposed to the south-east winds, wliich we found to blow with ^'reat violence ; and the devastation they make 'sometimes was apparent in many [jjuces. The land bonleriii^j upon the sea- coast is of a middling h';i[,dit and level, but within the sound it rises almost evsrywliere into steep hills, which agree in their general formation, •ending in round or blunted tops, with some sharp though not very ])rominent ridges on their sides. Some of these hills may be reckoned high, while others of them are of a very modciate height; bat even tlie highest are en- tirely covered to their tops with the thickest woods, as well as every flat part toward the srM. There are some- times spots upon the sides of some of the hills which are bare, but they are few ill comparison of the whole, though they sufficiently point out the general rocky disposition of these hills. Pro- perly speaking, they have no soil upon them except a kind of compost |)roduced from rotten mosses and trees of the depth of two feet or more. Their foundations are therefore to be considered as nothing more than stu- pendous rocks of a whitish or grey cast where they have been exposed to the weather; but when broken they appeared to be of a bluish-grey colour, lilce that universal sort which were found at Kerguelen's Land. The rocky shores are a continued mass of this, and the little coves in the sound have beaches composed Zi irag- mtats of it, with a few other pebbles. AH these coves are furnished with a [Voy.ITT.B.IV.Ch.IL L,'rciit ipi.Mitity of iiilleii wood lying in them, which is enrrifd in bj' the tide, and v.ith rills of frosh water .suHii:ient for tlie use of a ship, wliich seem to be supplied entirely from the nuns and fo^'s that hover about the tops of the hill:). For few sj»ri)i,c,'-i can becx- j)ecte;l in so rocky a i.'(Miiitry, and the fresh water found fiiither up the aoiiiid most j)robably arose from the melting of the snow, there being no room to suspect that any large river falls into the sound, either from strangers coming down it or from any other circumstance. The water of these nils is pcjfectly clear, and dis- solves soap easily. The weather 'luring our stay corre- sponded pretty nearly with that which we had experienced oil' the coast. That is, when the wind v/ns anywhere between N. and "W. tlie weather was fine and clear; but if to tlio S. of W. hiizy, with rain. The climate, as far as we had any ex|)erieiico of it, is in- finitely milder than that on the east coast of America under the same parallel of latitude. The mercury in the therm on Jeter never even in the ni-ht fell lower than 42", and very often in the day it rose to 60°, No such thing as tro.st was perceived in any of the low ground, on the con- trary, vegetation had made a consider- able progress, for I met with grass that was alreadj' above a foot long. The trees which chielly compose the woods are the Canadian pine, white cypress, Oyprcsms thyoides, the wild pine, with two or three otlier sorts of pine less common. The first two make up almost two-thirds of the whole, and at a distance might be mistaken for the same tree, as they both run up into pointed spire-like tops; but they are easily distinguished on coming nearer from their colour, the cypress being of a much paler green, or shade, than the other. The trees in general grow with great vigour, and are all of a large size. There is but little variety of other vegetable pro- ductions, though doubtless several had not yet sprung up at the early season when we visited the place ; ana many more might be hid f^om ^Sl<^ i.lL /?in ie name of Virciiii.in (her. The foxes are in great pltiity, niid uf sovt-ral varieties; tome of thtii skins being quite yellow, with a black tip to the tail; olhcrs of a deep or reddish yellow interniixt'd with black ; and a third sort of a whitish grey ot ash-colour, also intermixed with black. Our people used to apply the name of fox or wolf imiiscrimiuately when the skins were so mutilated as to leave room for a doubt; but we got at last an entire wolf-skin with the head on, and it was grey. Besides tlie common sori of marten, the pine-marten is also here, rnd another, whose skin is of a lighter brown colour than either, with coarser hair ; but is not so common, and is perhaps only a mere variety arising from age or some other acci- dental circumstance. The ermine is also found at this place, but is rare and small ; nor is the hair remarkably fine, though the animal appeared to be perfectly white ; and squirrels are of the common sort, but the latter is rather smaller than ours, and has a deeper rusty colour running along the back. We were clear a.s to the existence of all the animals already mentioned, but there are two others besides which we could not distinguish with suflS- cient certainty. Of the first of tlicse we saw none of the skins but what were dressed or tanned like leather. The natives wear them on some occa- sions, and from the size as well as thickness they were generally con- cluded to belong to the elk or moose- deer, though some of them perhaps might belong to the buffalo. The other animal, which seems by no means rare, was guessed to be a species of the wild cat or lynx. The length of the skins without the head, which none of them had, was about two feet two inches. They are covered with a very fine wool or fur of a very light brown or whitish yellow colour, inter- mixed with long hairs, which on the back, where they are shortest, are blackish ; on the sides, where they are longer, of a silver white ; ard on the belly, where they are longest, of 1l» colour of the wool ; but the whitish ic ), , vhvi i' ''.111 I ■ li I ! Wi \f ill i 1 256 silver hairs are often so predominant that the wholb animal acquires a cast of that kind. The tali is only three inches long, and has a black tip. The whole fikin beinjr by the natives called "wanshee," that most probably is thc»ir name tor this animal. Hogs, dog.', and goats have not as yet found their way to this place. Nor do the natives seem to have any knowledge of our brown rats, to which when they saw one on board the shipa, they applied the name they give to squir- tliough »r COOK'S VOYAGES. CYo^.I!!. B.IT.Cm.II. without at tho base of the two middle ones. In these cir our. stances it seems to disagree with those found by the Faissians, and also in not having the outer toes of the hind feet skirted with a membrane. There seemed also a greater variety in the colour of the skins than is mentioned by the describers of the llussian seaotters. These changes of colour certainly take place at the different gradations of life. Tho very young ones had brown hair, which was coarse, vrith, rels. And though they called "our { very little fur underneath, but those goats "eineetla,' this most probably | of the size of the entire animal which is their name for a young deer or came into our possession had a con- fawn, siderable quantity of that substance ; The sea-animals seen off the coast and both in that colour and state the were whales, porpoises, and seals, sea -otters seem to remain till they The last of these s6em only of the have attained their full growth. After common sort, judging from the skins that they lose their black colour, and which we saw here ; their colour being either silvery, yellowish, plain, or spotted with black. The porpoise is the Phocena. I have chosen to refer to this class the sea-otter, as living mostly in the water. It might have been sufficient to have mentioned that this animal abounds here, as it is fully described in different books taken from the accounts of the Rus- sian adventurers in their expeditions eastward from Kamtschatka, if there had not been a small difference in one that we saw. We for some time entertained doubts whether the many skins which the natives brought really belonged to this animal, as our only reason for being of that opinion was founded on the size, colour, and fine- ness of the fur ; till a short while be- fore our departure, when a whole one that had been just killed was pur- assume a deep brown or sooty colour ; but have then a greater quantity of veiy fine fur and scarcely any long hairs. Others, which we suspected to be still older, were of a chestnut brown; and a few skins were seen that had even acquired a perfectly yellow colour. The fur of these ani- mals, as mentioned in the Russian accounts, is certa'nly softer and finer than that of any others we know of, and therefore the discovery of this part of the continent of North Ame- rica, where so valuable an article of commerce may be met with, cannot be a matter of indifference. Birds in general are not only rare as to the different species, but very scarce as to numbei-s, and these few are so shy, that in all probability they are continually harassed by the nc- tivei:, perhaps to eat them as food, chased from some strangers who camo ! certainly to get possession of their to barter. It was rather young, ! feathers, which they use as ornaments, weighing only twenty-five pounds » of i Those which frequent the woods are a shining or glossy black colour; but I crows and ravens, .lOt at all different many of the hairs being tipt with white, gave it a greyish cast at first sight. The face, throat, and breast wore of a yellowish white or very light brown colour, which in many of the skins extended the whole length of the bell^. It had six cutting-teeth in each jaw ; two of those of the lower JAW being very minute^ md placed from our English ones ; a bluish jay or magpie ; common wrens, which are the only singing bird that we hear ; the Canadian or migrating thrush; and a considerable uumber of brown eagles with white heads and tails, which, though they seem principally to frei^uent the coast, come into the sound in bad weather and sometinMi iPRiLl778.] OF TIIK BIRDS, WATERFOWL. AND KiSil. >57 perch upon the treos. Amongst some other birds of which the natives either brought fragments or dried skins, we could distinguish a small species of hawk, a heron, and the Alcyon or large-crested American kingfisher. There are also some which, I believe, are not mentioned, or at least vary very considerably from the accounts civen of them by any writers who have treated professedly on this part of natural history. The first two of these are species of woodpeckers; one less than a thrush, of a black colour above, ^vith wliite spots on the wings, a crimson head, neck, and breast, and a yellowish, olive-coloured belly, from which last circumstance it might perhaps not improperly be called the yellow-bellied woodpecker. The other is a larger and much more elegant bird, of a dusky brown colour on the upper part, richly waved with black, except about the head, the belly of a reddish cast, with round black spots, a black spot on the breast, and the under side of the wings and tail of a plain scarlet colour, thoi gh blackish above; with a crim- son streak running from the angle of the mouth a little down the neck on each side. The third and fourth are a small bird of the finch kind, about the size of a linnet, of a dark dusky colour, vhitish below, with a black head and neck and white bill, and a 8and-][ c<»- R ■« 1 258 I) ^i :i ijidcrable nnnibos of tho.so fish called the Chhtiwra;, or little sea-wolvos, by Attme, wliicli is akin to aud dbout the si/f of tlio *' j»ezef,'aIlo '* or elephaut- tish. Sliiirks likowiso sometitrios fre- quent the sound, for the natives have some of their teeth in their possession ; and we saw some jiieces of ray or skate which seemed to have been pretty large. The other marine ani- mals that ought to be mentioned here are a small cruoiated Mcdiu^a or blub- ber; star-iish which dilFer somewhat from the common ones ; two small sorts of crabs, and two others which the natives brouf];ht, one of them of a thick, tough, gelatinous consistence, md the other a sort of membranaceous tube or ])ipe ; both wkich are probably taken from the rocks. An(l we also purchased from them once a very largo cuttle-fish. There is abundance of large mussels about the rocks ; many sea-ears ; and we often saw shells of pretty large plain Chamve. The smaller sorts are some Trochi of two species ; a curious Murcj), rugged wilks, and a snail, all whic.li are jjrobably pecu- liar to this place ; at least 1 do not recollect to have seen them in any country near the same latitude in either hemisphere. There are besides these some small plain cockles, lim- pets ; iind some strangers who came into the sound, wore necklaces of a small bluish volute, or Faiia7>ice. Many of the mussels are a span in length, and some having pretty large pearls, which, however, are both badly shaped and coloured. We may con- clude that there is red coral in tlie sound or somewhere upon the coast ; some thick pieces or branches having been seen in the canoes of the natives. The only animals of the reptile kind observed here, and found in the woods, were brown snakes two feet long, with whitish stripes on the back and sides, which are narmless, as we often saw the natives carry them alive in their hands ; and brownish water-lizards, with a tail exactly like that of an eel, which frequented the small st:inainted in ditferent com- partments, and is not only sufficiently strong to resist arrows, but, as they informed us by signs, even spears cannot })ierce it, so tliat it may be considered as their coat of mail or most complete defensive armour. Upon the same occasion they some- times wear a kind of leathern cloak, covered with rows of dried hoofs of deer disposed horizontally, appended by leathern thongs covered with quills ; which when they move make a loud rattling noise, almost equal to that of many small bulls. It seems doubtful, however, whether this part of their garb be intended - to strike terror in war, or only is to be con- sidered as belonging to their eccentric ornaments on ccremonioirs occatiions, for we saw one of their musical en- tertainments conducted by a man dressed in this sort of cloak, with hia mask on, and shaking his rattle. Though these ])eople cannot be viewed without a kind of horror when equipped in such extravagant dresses, yet when divested of them and beheld in their common habit and actions, they have not the least appearance of ferocity in their countenances; and seem on the contrary, as observed already, to be of a quiet, phlegmatic, and inactive disposition, destitute in some measure of that degree of ani- mation and vivacity that would render them agreeable as social beings. If they are not reserved, they are far from being loquacious; but their gravity is perliaps leather a conse- quence of the disposition just men- tioned than of any conviction of its propriety, or the effect of any parti- cular mode of education. For even in the greatest paroxysms of their rage they seem unable to expiess it sufficiently, mther with warmth of language or significaucy of gestured. Their orations, which are made eithe? when engaged in any altercation or '-ill i FA elk or buffalo tanned This they dispute, or to explain their sentiments 1 1 1 'I 262 COOK'S VOYAGES. publicly OR r;thle, as soon for- getting it. I never found that these fits of passion went further than the parties immediately coneemed ; the spectators not ti'oubling themselves about the quarrel, whether it was with any of us or amongst their own body, and preserving as much indif- ference as if they had not known any- thing about it. I have often seen one of them rave and scold, without any of his countrymen paying the least tottentiou to his agitation, and when none of us could trace the cause or the object of his displeasure. In such cases they never discover the least symptom of timidity, but seem deter- mined at all events to punish the insult. For even with respect to us they never appeared to be under the least apprehension of our superiority ; but, when any difference happened, were jiist as ready to avenge the wrong as amongst themselves. Their other passions, especially their euriosity, appear in some measure to Ue dormant. For few expressed any tVoY. IIl.B.IV.Ch.IL desire to see or examine things wholly unknown to them, and which, lo those truly possessed of that i»assioa, would have appeared astonishing. They were ftlways contented to pro- cure the articles they knew and wanted, regarding everything else with great iudilference ; nor did our persons, apimrel, and manuejs, so dif- ferent from their own, or even the extraordhiary size and construction of our shi])s, seem to excite admirotion or even engage attention. One cause of this may be their indolence, which seems considerable. Hut on the otlier hand they are certainly not wholly unsusceptible of the tender passions, if we may judge from their being so fond of music, which is mostly of the grave or serious but tnily pathetic sort. They keep the exactest concert in their songs, which are ofton sung by great numbers together, as those already mentioned with wJ:ich they used to entertain us in their canoes. These are generally slow and solemn; but the music is not of that confined sort found amongst many rude nations, for the variations are very nunjerous and expressive, and the cadence oi melody powerfully soothing. Besides their full concerts, sonnets of the same gi'ave cast were frecjuently sung by single performers, who keep time by striking the hand against the thigh. However, the music was sometimes varied from its predomi- nant solemnity of air, and there were instances of stanzas being sung in a more gay and lively strain, and even with a degree of humour. The only instruments of music (if such they may be called) which 1 saw amongst them were a rattle, and a small whistle, about an inch long, incapable of any variation, from having but one hole, I'hey use the rattle when they sing ; but upon what occasions they use the whistia I know not, unless it be when they dress themselves like particular ani- mals, and endeavour to imitate their howl or cry. I once saw one of them dressed in a wolf-skin, with the head over his own, and imitating that animal by making a squeaking nois* April 1778.:- 2AGERNESS TO POSSESS IRON ANP RRASFI. 2C3 with one of these whistles, which ho had in his mouth. I'he mttles are for the most part madw in the shape of a bird, with a few pbbles in the belly ; and the tail is the handle. They have others, liowever, that bear rather more resemblance to a child's rattle. In trafficking with us, some of them would betray a knavish disposition, and carry off our goods without making any return. But in general it was otherwise ; and we had abun- dant reason to commend the fairness of their condnr^,. However, their eagerness to " ^sess iron and brass, and indeed «. •' of metal, was s(.» great, '■''at i .. em could resist the ten .station to & al it whenever an opportunity offered. The inhabitants of tb'' South Sea Islands, as appears from a variety of instances in the course of this voyage, rather than be idle, would steal anything that they eould lay their hands upon, without ever considering whether it could be of use to them or no. The novelty of the object with them was a suffici- ent motive for endeavouring by any indirect means to get possession of it ; which marked that in such cases tlioy were rather actuated by a childish curiosity than by a dishonest disposi- tion, regardless of the modes of sup- plying real wants. The inhabitants of Nootka, who invaded our projierty, cannot have such apology made for them. They were thieves in the strictest sense of tho word ; for they pilfered nothing from us but what they knew could be converted to the purposes of private utility, and had a real value according to their estima- tion of thines. And it was lucky for us that nothing was thought valu- able by them but the single ariicles of our metals. Linen and such like things were perfectly secure from their depredations ; and we could safely leave them hanging out ashore all night without watching. Tiie same principle which prompted our Nootka triends to pilfer from us, it was na- tural to suppose, would produce a similar conduct in their intercourse with each other. And accordingly we had abundant reason to boliove that stealing is much practised aiiiLiiif^st them, and that it cliiefly gives rise to tlieir qnanels, of which wo saw moN than one instance. CHAPTER 11!. TnE two towns or villages men- tioned in the course of my Journal seem to be the only iiiliabitcd parts of the sonnd. The number of in- habitants in both might be pretty exaetly computed frojii the canoes that were about tho ships the second day after our arrivnl. Tiiey amounted to about a humlrt'(l, which, at a very moderate allnw.'ince, must upon au average have held five persons each. But as there were scarcely any women, very old men, children, or youths amongst them at that time, I think it will rather be rating the number of the inhabitants of the two towns too low if we snppoGo they could be leas than four times the number of our visitors, that is, 2000 in the whole. The village at the entrance of tho sound stands nn the side of a rising ground, which has a pretty steep ascent from the beach to the verge of the wood, in which space it is situated. The houses are disposed in three ranges or rows, rising gradually be- hind each other, the largest being that in front, and the others less ; besides a few straggling or single ones at each end. These ranges are interrupted or disjoined at irregular distances by narrow paths or lanes that pass upward ; but those which run in the direction of the houses between the rows are much broader. Though there be some appearance of regularity in this disposition, there is none in the single houses ; for each of the divisions made by the paths may be considered either as one noose or as many, there being no regular or complete separation eitner without at within to distinguish them by. They are built of very long and broad pianks, resting upon the edges oi each other, fastened or tied bv withes • I ■f 1 I ^l iei COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.III. B.IV.Ch. Ill, M: f >f T)iue* bark ixtre and there, aud have only slender posts, or rather polos, at considerable distances on the outside, to which they are also tied ; but within are some larger poles placed aslant. The lieight of the sides and ends of these habitations is seven or eight feet ; bat the back part is a Uttle higher, by which means the planks that conii)ose the roof slant forward, and are laid on loose so as to be moved about, either to be put close to exclude the rain, or in fair weather to be separated to let in the ligUt and carry out the smoke. They are, how- ever, upon the whole, miserable dwellings, and constructed with little care or ingenuity. For though the side planks be made to fit i)rctty closely in some places, in others they are quite open ; and there are no regular doors into them, the only way of entrance being either by a hole, where the unequ^ length of the planks has accidentally left an open- ing ; or in some cases planks are made to pass a little beyond each other, or overlap, about two feet asunder, and the entrance is in this space. There are also holes or win- dows in the sides of the houses to look out at, but without any regu- larity of sha^e or disposition ; and these have bits of mat hun^ before them to prevent the rain getting in. On the inside o:ie may frequently see from one end to tlie other of these ranges of building without interrup- tion. For though in general there be the rudiments, or rather vestiges, uf separations on each side for the accommodation of different families, they are such as do not intercept the sight ; and often consist of no more than pieces of plank running from the side toward the middle of the house, so that, if they were com- plete, the whole might be compared to a long stable, with a double range of stalls, and a broad passage in the middle. Close to the sides, in each of these parts, is a little bunch of boards, raised five or six inches higher tlian the rest of the floor, and covered with mats, on which the family sit and sleep. These lenchos are commonly seven or eight feet long, and four o;* five broad. 7d the middle of the floor, between them, is the fireplace, which has neither hearth nor chimney. In one house, which was in the cud of a middle range, almost quite sepai-ated from the rest by a high close parti* tion, and the most regular as to de- sign of any that I saw, there were four of these benches, each of which held a single family at a corner, but without any separation by boards; and the middle part of the house ap« peaved common to them all. Their furniture consists chiefly of a gieat number of chests and boxes of all sizes, which are generally piled upon each other close to the sides or ends of the house, and contain their spare garments, skins, masks, and other things which they set a value upon. Some of these are double, or one covei-s the other as a lid ; others have a lid fastened with thongs ; and some of the very large ones have a square hole or scuttle cut in the upiwr part, by which the things are put in and taken out. They are often painted black, studded with the teeth of difler- ent animals, or carved with a kind oi' frieze-work, and figures of birds or animals, as decorations. Their other domestic utensils are mostly square and oblong pails or buckets to nold water and other things ; round wooden cups and bowls, and small shallow wooden troughs about two feet long, out of which they eat their food ; and baskets of twigs, bags of matting, &c. Their fishing implements and other things also he or nang up in di£ferent {)arts of the house, but without the east order, so that the whole is a complete scene of confusion ; and the only places that do not partake of this confusion are the sleeping-benches, that have nothing on them but the mats, which are also cleaner or of a finer sort than those they commonly have to sit on in their boats. The nastiness and stench of their houses are, however, at least equal to tlie confusion. For as they dry their fish withindoors, they also gut them there ; which, with their bones and fragmentfi thrown i^own at meals, and the addi- APKIL1778.] WOODEN tion of other soits of filth, lie every- whert iu Leaps, and are, I believe, never carried away till it becomes troublesome from their size to walk over them. In a word, their booses are as filthy as hog-sties ; everything in and about them stinking of fish, train-oil, and smoke. But amidst all the filth and confu- sion that are found in the houses, many of them are decorated with images. TJiese are nothing more than the trunks of very large trees, four or five het high, set up singly or by pairs at the upper end of the apartment, with the front carved into a human face, the arms and hands cut out upon the sides, and variously painted ; so that the whole is a truly monstrous figure. The general name of these images is "klunima;" and the names of two particular ones, which stood abreast of each other, three or four feet asunder, in one of the houses, were "Natchkoa" and **Matseeta." A mat, by way of curtain, for the most part hung before them, which the natives were not willing at all times to remove; and when they did unveil them they seemed to speak of them in a very mysterious manner. It should seem that they are at times accustomed to make offerings to them; if we can draw this inference from their desir- ing ns, as we interpreted their signs, to give something to these images when they drew aside the mats that covered them. It was natural from these circumstances for us to think that they were representatives of their gods, or symbols of some religious or superstitious object ; and yet we had proofe of the little real estimation they were in, for with a small quantity of iron or brass I could have purchased all the gods (if their images were such) in the place. I did not see one that was not offered to me ; and I actually got two or three of the very smallest sort. The chief employment of the men seems to be that of fishing, and killing land or sea anicnals, for the sustenance « be suid of tlio lond-auimals, which, though doubt- loss the natives sometimes kill them, appeared to be scarce at this tinjo, as we did not see a sinj^le [)ieoe of the flosh belonging to any of them ; and thougli their skins be in tolerable plenty, it is prol)!iblo that many uf these are procured by trail. ; i'luui other triljes. V2)on the whole, it seems ])lain from a variety of circumstances that these people procure almoi-t ail their utiimal food from the sea, if we except a few birds, of which the gulls or sea-fowl, whicli they shoot witlj their arrows, are the most material. As the Canadian pine-braiiohes and 8ca-grass on which the fish-roe is strewed may be considered as their only winter vegetables, so as the Rl>ring advances they m:ike use of several others as they come in season. The most common of these whicli we observed were two sorts of liliaceous roots, one simply tunicated, the other granulated upon its surface, called *' mahkatte " and " koohquopp-:," which have a mild sweetish tJiste, aiul are mucilaginous and eaten raw. The next which they have in great quan- tities is a root called "aheita," re- sembling in taste our liquorice, and another fern root whose leaves were not yet disclosed. 'I'hey also eat raw another small, sweetish, insipid root about the thickness of sarsaparilhi, but we were ignorant of the plant to which it belongs ; and also of another root, which is very large and palmated, which we saw them dig up near the village and afterward eat it. It is also probable that as the season ad- vances thar- iiig their porpoise broth is such ; and iuileed tlieir vessels, being all of wotul, nrofjuite insntlioient lor tliis purpose. Tinir manner of eating is exactly cou- .-..:;. lut to the nastinesh of their houses and persons ; for tiio trouglis and platters in which they put their food ajq-ear never to have been washed from the time they were first made, and the dirty remains of a former meal are only swept away by the succeeding one. They also tear everything solid or tough to pieces with their hands and teeth ; for though they make use of their knives to cut off the larger jiortions, they have not as yet thought of reducing tho'=e to sr.iriHci pieces and mouth fuls by the same means, though obviously more convenient and cleanly. But they seem to have no iiiea of cleaidiness ; for they eat the roots which they dig from the groujid without so much as shaking off the soil that adheres to them. We are uncertain if they have any set time for meals ; for we have seen them eat at all hours in their canoes. And yet, from seeing several messes of the por- poise broth preparing towards noon, when we visited the village, I should suspect that they make a principal meal about that time. Their weapons are bows and arrows, slings, spears, short truncheons of bone somewhat like the "patoo patoo " of New Zealand, and a small pick-az« not unlike the common American tomahawk. The spear has geueraUy a long point made of bone. Some of the arrows are pointed with iron ; but !i 1 Hi ! I * < IS U S < ! ■M 2G8 most rornmoiily their points were of i indeiital bone. The tuinahawk is a stone, aix or eight inch<'s lung, point* ed at one ond, and the other end fixed into a handle of wood. This handle resembles the head and neck of the human figure ; and the stone is fixed in the mouth, so as to represent an enormously large tongue. To make the ri'semblance still stronger, human hair is also fixed to it. This weapon they call *'taaweesh"or •'tsuskeeali." They have another stone weapon celled "seeaik," nine inches or a foot long, with a square jioint. From the num- ber of stone weapons and othoi-s, we might almost conclude that it is their custom to engage in close fight ; and we had too convincing proofs that their wars arc both frequent and bloody, from the vast number of human skulls which they brought to sell. Their manufactures and nieohanio arts are far more extensive and ingeni- ous, whether we regard the design or the execution, than could have been expected from the natural dis- position of the people and the little progress that civilisation has made amongst them in other respects. The flaxen and woollen garments with which they cover themselves must necessarily engage their first care, and are the most material of those that can be ranked under the head of manu- factures. The former of these are made of the bark of a pine-tree, beat into a hempen state. It is not spun, but after being properly prepared is spread upon a stick wliich is fastened across to two others that stand upright. It is disposed in such a manner that the manufacturer, who sits on her hams at this simple machine, knots it across with small plaited threads at the dis- tance of half-an-inch from each other. Though by this method it be not so close or firm as cloth that is woven, the bunches between the knots make it sufficiently impervious to the air, by filling the interstices ; and it has the additional advantage of being softer and more pliable. The woollen garments, thougn probably manufac- UterA in the siune manner, have the COOK'S VOYAGES. [YoY.lil.B.iV.Cu.lIl, strongest resemblance to woven cloth* lUit tlio various figures which are very artificially inserted in them destroy the supi)osition of their being wrought in a loom ; it being extremely unlikely that these {leojde should be so dox* terous as to be able to finish such a complex work unless iminediattdy by their hands. They are of different degrees of fineness ; come resembling our coarsest rugs or blankets, and others almost equal to our fine^^t sorts, or even softer, and certainly warmer. The wool of which they are made seems to be taken from animals, as the fox and brown lynx, the last of which is by far the finest sort, and in its natural state dilfers little from the colour of our coarser wools ; but the hair with which the animal is also covered being intermixed, its appearance when wrought is somewhat diifereut. The ornamental parts or figures in these gai-ments, which are disposed with great taste, are commonly of a differ* ent colour, being dyed chiefly either of a deep brown or of a yellow ; the last of which, when it is new, cnuals the best in our cari)ets as to brightness. To their taste or design in working figures upon their garments, corre* sponds their fondness for carving in everything they make of wood. No- thing is without a kind of frieze- work or the figure of some animal upon it ; but the most general repre- sentation is that of the human face, which is ofter cut out upon birds, and the other monstrous figures men- tioned before, and even upon their stone and f.heir bone weapons. The general design of all these things is perfectly sufficient to convey a know- ledge of the object they are intended to represent ; but the carving is not executed with the nicety that a dex- terous artist would bestow even upon an indifferent design. The same, however, cannot be said of many o£ the human masks and heads, where they show themselves to be ingenious sculptors. They not only preserve with exactness Uie general character of their own faces, but finish the mora minute parts with a degree of accuracy in proportion and neatness in exeofi* Arn[Ll778.i Hon. The stronj; nroi>nnsity of \hU people to works of tliissort is roinark- »l)lc, in a vast vuricty of particulars, fl.ninll whole hutiiau figiiros ; repro- stMitntions of birds, Hsh, nnroces3 of their whale- fishery painted on the caps they wear. This, though rudely executed, serves at least to show that though there be no appearance of the knowledge of letters amongst them, they have some notion of a method of commemorating and representing actions in a lasting way, independently of what may bo recorded in their songs and traditions. They have also other figures painted on some of their things ; but it is doubtful if they ought to be considered as ^ymbds that have certain establish- ed significations, or only the mere creation of fancy and caprice. Their canoes are of a simple struc- ture, but, toapnearance, well calculated for every useful purpose. Even the largest, which carry twenty peoj)le or more, are formed of one tree. Many of them are forty feet long, seven broad, and about three deep. From the middle towards each end they become gradually narrower, the after- part or stem ending abruptly or per- pendiculnrly, with a small knob on the top ; but the forepart is lengthened out, stretching forwards and upwards, ending in a notched point, or prow, considerably higher t) «,n the sides of the canoe, which run nearly in a straight line. For the most part they are without any ornament, bat some hive a little carving, and are decorated by setting seals' teeth on the surface, like studs ; as is the practice on their masks and weapons. A few have likewise a kind of additional head or prow, like a large cutwater, which is V«unted with the figure of some ani- NATIVE CANOKS. •J69 mal. Tlicyhave no 8catH,noT any other sujiportors on the insitle than several round sticks, little thicker than a cane, placed across at mid depth. They are very light, and their breadth antl flatness enable them to swim firmly withoiit nn outrigger, which none of them havo; a remarkable distinction between the navigation of all the Ame- rican nntions, and that of the Southern parts of the East Indies and the islands in the Pacific Ocean. Their paddles are small and light ; the shape in some measure resembling that of a lar<^ leaf pointed at the bottom, broadest in the middle, and gradually losing itself in the shaft, the whole being about five feet long. Tliey have acquired great dexterity in managing these paddles by constant use ; for sails are no part of their art of navigation. Their implements for fishing and hunting, which are both ingeniously contrived and well made, are nets, hooks and lines, hnipoons, gigs, and an instrument like nn oar. This last is about twenty feet long, fo ir or five inches broad, and about half-an-inch thick. Each edge, for about two- thirds of its length (the other third being its handle), is set with sharp bone teeth about two inches long. IfeiTings and sardines, and such other small tish as come in shoals, are at- tacked with this instrament, which is struck into the shoal, and the fish are caught either upon or between the teeth. Their hooks are made of bone and wood, and rather inartificially ; but the harpoon with which theystrike the whales and lesser sea animals shows a great rer.ch of contnvance. It is com- posed of a piece of bone, cut into two Darbs, in which is fixed the oval blade of a largo mussel shell, in which is the point of the instrument. To this are fastened about two or three fathoms of rope ; and to throw this harpoon they use a shaft of about twelve or fifteen feet long, to which the lino or rope is made fast, and to one end of which the harpoon is fixed, so as to separate from the shaft, and leave it fioating upon the water as a buoy wlien th« animal darts away with the harpoon. We can say nothing as to the ma»< 1 I i ' i'< ! 1 270 COOK b VOYAG FiIS. [ Vor. ill. B. IV. (H. 1 1 1. Ki^ ii i' i ^1= \ ! 'I :■' 'i I f I' : ucr of tlioJr catohiri'j; or lcillir;f» lar.d animals, unless we usay suppose that they shoot the snia'jer sorts with their arrows, and engage l)ears or wolves and foxes wnth their spears. They have, indeed, several nets, which are probably applied to that purpose, as they frequently threw them over their heaids, to show their use, when they brought them to us for sale. They alao sometimes decoy animals by covering themselves with a skin, and running about upon all fours, which they do very nimbly, :■:. appeared from the specimens of tiicir skill which they exhibited to us, making a kind of noise or neighing at the same time ; and on these occasions the masks, or carved heads, as well as the real dried heads, of the different animals are put on. As to the materials of which they make their various articles, it is to be observed that eveiything of the rope kind is formed either from thongs of skins and sinews of animals, or from the same ilaxen substance of which their mantles are manufactured. The sinews often appeared to be of such a length, that it might bo presumed they could be of no other animal than the whale. And the same may be said of the bones of which they make their weapons already mentioned ; such as their bark-boating instru- ments, the points of their spears, and the barbs of their harpoons. Their great dexterity in works of wooel may in some measure be ascribed to the assistance they receive from iron tools. For as far as we know they use no other ; at least we saw only one chis-l of bone. And though ori- ginally their tools must have been of ditfereut niiiteiials, it is not imjiro- bable that many of their improve- ments have been made since tliey acquired a knowledge of that metal, V hich is now universally used in their various wooden works. The chisel ftnd the knife are the only forms, as far as we saw, that i m assumes amoni'st them. The chisel is a long flat piece fitted into a hornne (if wood. A stone serves for a mallot, and a piece of fish skin for a polisher. I have seen some of these chisels that were eight or ten inthos long, and three or four inches bioad ; but in general they were smaller. The knives are of various sizes ; some* very largo ; and their blades ari; crooked, somewhat likeoiir praning-knife, but the edge is on the back or convex part. Most of them that vre saw were about the breadth and thickness of an iron hoop ; and their singular form marks that they are not of European make. Probably they are imitations of their own ori- ginal instruments used for the earae purposes. They sharpen the.se iron tools upon a coarse slate whetstone, and likewi.se keep the whole instru- ment constantly bri^'ht. Iron, which they call "seekemaile" (which name they also give to tin and all white metals), being familiar to these people, it was very natural for us to speculate about the mode of its being conveyed to them. Ujion our arrival in the sound they imniediately discovered a knowledge of trallic and an inclination for it, and we were con- vinced aftenvards that they had not received this knowledge from a cursory interview with any strangers ; but, from their method, it seemed to be an established practice of which they were fond, and in which they were also well skilled. With whom they carry on this trafRc, may perhaps ad- mit of s(mie doubt. For though we found amongst them things doubtless of European manufacture, or at least derived from some civilised nation, such as iron and brass, it by no means apr'cars that they receive them imme- diately from these nations. For we never observed tlie least sign of their having seen ships like ours before, nor of their having tradiid with such people. Many circumstances serve to prove this almost beyond a doubt. They were earnest in their inquiries, by signs, on our arrival, if we meant to settle amongst them, and if we cv.ma as friends ; signifying, at the same time, that they gave the wood and water freely, from friendi5hip. 'J'hia not only jtroves that they consideied tlie place as entirely their property, without fearingany superiority ; but the inquiry would have been an unnatural AruiL 1778.> one, on a su))po3itioa that air/ ships had been Lore bel'ore, had tiaificked audsuj)plied themselves with wood and water, and had then departed ; for in that case they might reasonalily expect Vb would do the same. Tiicy iudt^ed expressed no marks of surpri-se at see- ing our sliips. But this, as I observed before, may be imputed to their natural indolence of temper and want of (Miri- osity. Nor were they even startled at the report of a musket ; till one day, upon their endeavouring to make us sensible that their arrows and spears could not penetrate the hide dresses, one of our gentlemen shot a musket bidl through one of tiiem folded six times. At this they were so much staggered that thoy plaiiiiy discovered their ignorance of the ellect of tire- arms. This was very often confirmed afterwards, when we used them at their village and other places to shcut birds, the manner of which plainly confounded them ; and our explana- tions of the use of shot and ball were received with the most significant marks of their having no previous ideas on this matter. Some accounts of a Spanish voyage to this coast in 1774 or 1775 had reached England before I sailed, but the foregoing circumstances suffi- ciently prove that these ships had not been at Nootka.^ Besides this, it was evident that iion was too common here, was in too many hands, and the uses of it were too well known for them to have had the first knowledge of it so very lately, or indeed at any earlier period, by an accidental supply from a ship. Doubtless, from the ^ We now know that Cai^tain Cook's conjecture was well founded. It ap- pears from the Journal of this Voyiige, already referred to, that the Spaniaids had interc 'urse with the natives of this coast only in three places — in Latitude 41" 7', in Latitude 47" '^1', and in Latitude {57" 18'. So that they wore not within two degrees of Kootka ; and it is most probable that tlie jjcople there never heard of tliese Spanish slips. — Note in Original Edi- THE! il IRON TOOLS. 271 general use they make of this metal« it maybe supposed tocorne from some constant source by way uf tratfic, and that not of a very late date, I'ur they are as dexterous in using their too& as the longest piactico can make them. The must [Jiiibnble way, there- fore, by which wecan suppose tliat they get their uon, is by trailing for it with other Indian tribes, who either have immediate communication with Euro- pean settlements upon the continent, or receive it perhaps through several interuiediate n;itious. The same might l»e said of the brass and co})[)er found amongst them. Whether these things be ULVodueed by way of Hudson's 15 ly and Can;ida from the iihliaaa who deal witli our traders, ond so .successively across from one irit:e to the other, or wliether they he brought from the north-western parts of ilexioo in the same manner, perhaps caniiot be easily determined. But it sliould seem that not only the rude materials, but some articles in their manufiic- tured state, find their way hither. The brass ornaments for noses, in }>ar- ticular, are so neatly made that I am doubtful whether the Indians are capable of fabricating them. The materials certainly are European, as no American tribes have been founsl who knew the method of making brass; though copper has been coni- monly met with, and from its softnese might be fashioned into any shape, and also polished. If our traders to Hudson's Bay and Canada do not use such articles in their traffic with the natives, they must have been intro- duced at Nootka from the (juarter of Mexico, whence no doubt the two silver table-spoons met with here were originally derived. It is most prob- able, however, that the Si)aniards are not such eager traders, nor have formed such extensive connections with the tribes north of Mexico as to supply them with quantities of iron, from which they can spare so much to the people here.* I . ' Though the two silver table-spoo!Si found at Nootka Sound m'.'ith some showers of hail, snow, andsleot. Between 11 and 12 o'clock we passed a group of small islands lying under the mainland, iu the Latitude of 56° 48', and off, or rather to the northward of, the south {)<)int of a large bay. An arm of this »ay, in the northern part of it, seemed to extend in towards the north, be- hind a round elevated mountain that lies between it and the sea. This niountxiin I called Mount Edgcumbe ; and the point of land that shoots out from it Cape Edgcumbe. The latter lies in the Latitude of 57° 3', and in the Longitude of 224° 7'; and at noon it bore N. 20°, W. six leagues dis- tant. The land, except in some places cloje to the sea, is all of a con- siderable height, and hilly ; but Mount P'dgcumbe far out-tops all th* other hills, it woa wliolly covered with snow, a* were also all the other elevated hills ; but the lower ones, and the Hatter spots bordering upon the sea were free from it, and covered with wood. As we advanced to the north, we I < ♦ 1 H .M M !l' 274 COOK'S VOYAGES. (Toy. III. B. IV. Ch. IT. found the coast from Cape Edgcumbe to trend to north and north-easterly for six or seven leagues, and there form a large bay. In the entrance of tliat bay are some islands, for which reason I named it the Bav of Islands. It lies in the Latitude of hr" 20V and seemed to branch into several arms, one of v.hich turned to the south, and may probably comnmnicatt witli the bay on the east side of Caj)e Edg- cumbe, and make the land of that Oape an island At half-an-hour past four in the morning on the 3d, Mount Edgcumbe bore S. 64" E. ; a large inlet N. 50° E., distant six leagues ; and the most advanced point of the land to the NW., lying under a very high peahcd mountain, wliich dbtained the name of Mount Fairweather, bore N. 32° W. The inlet was named Cross Sound, as being first seen on that day •0 marked in our Calemlar. It ap- peared to branch in several arms, the largest of which turned to the north- ward. The south-east point of this sound is a high promoutoiy, which obtained the name of Cross Cape. It lies in the Latitude of 57° 57', and its Longitude is 223° 21'. At noon it bore SE. ; and the point under the g naked mountain, which was called ape Fairweather, N. by W. quarter W., distant tliirteen leagues. Here the NE. wind left us, and was succeeded by light breezes from the NW., which lasted for several days. I stood to the SW. and WSW. till 8 o'clock the next morning, wheji we tacked and stood towards the shore. At noon the Latitude was 68° 22', and the Longitude 220° 45'. Mount Fairweather, tl)o peaked moun- tain over the cape of the same name, bore N. 63° E. ; the shore under it twelve leamios distant. This moun- tain, which lies in the Latitude of * It should seem that in this very bay the Spaniards in 1775 found their port whicn they call De los Remedios. The Latitude is exactly the same ; and their Journal mentions its being protected by a long ridge of high Islands. — Note in Original Edition. 58° 52', and in the Longitude of 222', and five leagues inland, is the highest of a chain, or rather a ridge, of moun- tains that rise at the NW. entrance of (.'ross Sound, and extend to the NW. in a parallel direction with the coast. These mountains were wholly covered with snow, from the highest summit down to the sea-coast, some few places excepted, where we could perceive trees rising, as it were, out of the sea ; and which, therefore, we supposed grew on low land, or on islands bordering upon the shore of the continent. At five in the after- noon our Latitude being then 58° 53', and our Longitude 220 52', the sum- mit of an elevated mountain appeared above the horizon, bearing N. 26° W., and, as was afterward found, forty leagues distant. We supposed it to bo Behring's Mount St Elias ; and it stands by that name in our chart. This day we saw several wliales, seals, and porpoises ; many gulls, and several flocks of birds, which had a black ring about the head, the tip of the tail, and u^jper part of the wings, with a black band, and the rest bluish above and white below. We also saw a brownish duck, with a black or deep blue head and neck, sitting upon the water. Having but light winds, with some calms, we advanced slowly ; so that, on the 6th, at noon, we were only in the Latitude of 59° 8', and in the Longitude of 220° 19'. Mount Fair- weather bore S. 63° E., and ilount St Elias N. 30° W. ; the nearest land about eight leagues distant. In the direction <»f N. 47* E. from this station, there was the appearance of a bay, and an island off tho south point of it, that waa covered with wood. It is here where I suppose Commodore Behring to have anchored. Beliind the bay (which I shall distinguish by the name of Behring's Bay, in honour of its discoverer), or rather to the south of it, the chain of mountains before mentioned is interrupted by « plain of a few leagues' extent, beyond which the sight was unlimited ; so that there is either a level country or water behind it. In the alternoon, f Mat 1778.] KAYE'S having a few hours' calm, I took this 1 opportiiniry to souud, and found twenty tdthoms water over a muddy bottom. The calm was succeeded by a light breeiio from the north, with which we stood to the westward ; and at noon the next day we were in the Latitude of 59° 27', and the Longi- tude of 219° 7'. We now found the coast to trend very much to the west, inclining hardly anything to the noith ; and as we had the wind mf stly from the we-stward, and but little of it, our progress was slow. On the 9th, at Dooii, the Latitude was 59° 30', and the Longitude 217°. In this '5itua- tion the nearest land was nine leagues distant, and iMount St Klias bore N. 30° E., nineteen leagues distant. This mountain lies twelve leagues inland, in the Latitude of 60° 27', and in the Longitude of 219°. It belongs to a ridge of exceedingly high moun- tains, that may be reckoned a con- tinuation of the former, as they are only divided from them by the plain above mentioned. They extend as far to the west as tlie Longitude of 217°, where, although they do not end, they lose much of their height, and become more broken and divided. At noon on the 10th our Latitude was 59" 51', and our Longitnde 215° 66', being no more than three leagues from the coast of the continent, which extended from E. half N. to NW. half \V., as far as the eye could reach. To the westward of this last direction waa an island that extended from N. 52° W. to S. 85° W., distant six leagues. A point shoots out from the main toward the KE. end of the ishunl, "bet. ag at this time N. 30° "VW, live or fiis leagues distant. This point I named Cajie Suckling. The point of the ca^e is low ; but within it is a tolerably high hill, which is disjoimil from the mountains by low land, so that at a distance the cape looks liko an .sland. On the north side of Ca[)o Suckling is a bay that appeared to be of some extent, and to be covered from most winds. To this bay I had some thoughts of going to stop our leak, as all our endeavours to do it at ISLAND. 275 sea had proved ineffectual. With this view 1 steered for tiie Cape : but as we had only variable light breezes w** approached it slowly. However, be- fore night we were near enough to see some low land spitting out from the ca]»e to the NW., so as to cover the east part of the bay from the south wind. We also saw some small islands in the bay, and elevated rocks between the cape and the north-east end of the island. But still there appeared to be a passage on both sides of these rocks ; and I continued steer- ing for them all night, having from forty-three to twenty-seven fathoms water, over a muddy bottom. At 4 o'clock next morning, the wind, which had been mostly at NE., shifted to N. This being against us, I gave up the design of going within the island or into the bay, as neither could be done without loss of time. I therefore bore up for the west end of the island. The wind blew faint, and at 10 o'clock it fell calm. Being not far IVom tlie island, I went in a boat, and landed upon it with a view of seeing what lay on the other side; but finding it farther to the hills than I expected, and the way being steep and woody, I was oV)liged to drop tb.e design. At the foot of a tree, on a little eminence not iar from the shore, 1 left a bottle with a pa))er in it on which wore inscribed the names of the ships and the date of our dis- covery ; and along with it I enclosed two silver twopenny pieces of hia Slajesty's coin, of the date 1772. Those, with many otliers, were fur- nished me by the Rev. Dr Kaye;^ and as a mark of my esteem and re- gard for that gentle I nan I named the island, after him, K aye's Island. 1\ is eleven or twelve leagues in lengtL in the direction of NE. and SW., but its breadth is not above a league or a league and a li«lf in any part of it. The SW. point, which lies in the Latitude of 59° 49' and the Longitude of 216' 68', is very remarkable, being if m' * Then Sub-almoner and Chaplain his Majesty, aftervtrardji Dean of to Lincoln. ffi i I '1 ' Ui J: ' ■'■t i 1 ■ ■; I! li ; : 1 1 if |! 11 i I ^^ 276 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot.III.B.1V.Ch.IV. a naked i«^k elevated considerably above the land within it. There is also an elevated rock lying off it, which from some points of view ap- pears like a rained castle. Towards tlie sea the island terminates in a kind of bare sloping cliffs, with a beach, only a few paces across to their foot, of large pebble stones, intermixed in some places with a brownish clayey sand which the sea seems to deposit after rolling in, having been washed down from the higlier parts by the rivulets or torrents. The cliffs are composed of a bluish stone or rock, in a soft or mouldering state, except in a few places. There are parts of the shore interrupted by small valleys and gullies. In each of these a rivu- let or torrent rushbs down with con- siderable impetuosity, though it may be supposed that they are only fur- nished from the snow, and last no longer than till it is all melted. These valleys are filled with pine- trees, which grow down close ^o the entrance, but only to about half-way up the higher or middle part of the island. The woody part also begins everywhere immediately above the cliffs, and is continued to the same height with the former, so that the island is covered as it were with a broad girdle of wood spread upon its side, included between the top of the cliffy shore and the higher parts in the centre. The trees, however, are far from being of an uncommon growth, few appearing to be larger than one might grasp round with his arms, and about forty or fifty feet high ; so that the only purpose they could answer for shipping would be to make top-gallant-masts and otlier small things. How far we may judge of the size of the trees which grow on thrj neighbouring continent it may be difficult to determine. But it was observed that none larger than those we saw growing lay upon the beach amongst the drift-wooa. The pine- trees sei'med all of one sort, and there W8ij neither the Canadian pine nor cypress to be seen. But there were a (ev, >vliich appeared to be the alder, that were but small, and had not vet shot forth their leaves. Upon th« edges of the cliffs, and on some slop- ing ground, the surface was covered with a kind of turf about hall-a-foot thick, which seemed composed of the common moss, and the top or upper part of the island had almost the same appearance as to colour, but whatever covered it seemed to be thicker. I found amongst the trees some cununt and hawberry bushes, a small yellow- How ered violet, and the leaves of some other i)lants not yet in flower, parti- cularly one which Mr Anderson sup- posed to be the Hcracleum of liin- naeus, the sweet herb which Steller, who attended Behring, imagined the Americans here dress for food in the same manner as the natives of Kamts- chatk'i. We saw flying about the wood a crow, two or three of the white-headed eagles mentioned at Nootka, and another sort full as large, which ap- peared also of the same colour, or blacker, and had only a white breast. In the passage from the ship to the shore we saw a great many fowls sit- ting upon the water, or fl3ang about in nocks or pairs ; the chief of which were a few *'quebrantahuesos,"divere, ducks or large petrels, gulls, shags, and burres. The divers were of two sorts : one very large, of a black col- our, with a white breast and belly ; the other smaller, and with a longer and more pointed bill, which seemed to be the common guillemot. The ducks were also of two sorts, one brownish, with a black or deep blue head and neck, and perhaps the stone duck described by Steller. The others fly in larger flocks, but are smaller than these, and are of a dirty black colour. The gulls were of the common sort, and those which fly in flocks. The shags were large and black with a white spot behind the wings as they flew, but probably only the larger water connorant. There was also a single bird seen flying about, to ajv pearance of the gull kind, of a snowy white colour with black alon^ part of the up|)er side of its wings. 1 owe all these remark a to Mr Anderson. At the place where we landed, a fox came I oDf^er one blue stone othcra mailer black larger ilso a o ajv uowy [irt of ve all At came Mat 1778.] VISITED from the verge of the wood, and eyed us with very little emotion, walking leisurely without any signs of fear. IIo was of a reddiah-yellow colour, like some of the skins we bought at Nootka, but not of a large size. We also saw two or three little seals off shore, but no other animals or birds, nor the least signs of inhabitants hav- ing ever been upon the island, I re- turned on board at half-past two in the afternoon, and, with a light breeze easterly, steered for the SW. of the island, which we got round by 8 o'clock, and then stood for the westernmost land now in sight, which at this time bore NW. half N. On the NW. side of the NE. end of Kaye's Island lie?; another island, stretching SE. and NW. about three leagues, to within the same distance of the NW. boundary of the bay above mentioned, which is distinguished by the name of Comptroller's Bay. Next morning at 4 o'clock Kaye's Isknd was still in sight, bearing E. quarter S. At this time we were about four or five leagues from the main ; and the most western part in sight bore NW. half N. We had now a fresh gale at ESE ; and as we advanced to the NW., we raised land more and more westerly, and at last to the southward of west ; so that at noon, when the Latitude was 61° 11' and the Longitude 213° 28', the most advanced land bore from us SW. by W. half W. At the same time, the E. point of a large inlet bore WN W., three leagues distant. From Comp- troller's Bay to this point, which I name Cape Hinchingbroke, the direc- tion of the coast is nearly E. and W. Beyond this it seemed to incline to the southward; a direction so con- trary to the modem charts founded upon the late Russian discoveries, that we liad reason to expect that by tha inlet before us we should find a passage to the N., and tliat the land to the W. and SW. was nothing but a group of islands. Add to this, that the wind was now at SE., and we were threatened with a fog and a storm ; aid I wanted to get into some place to stop the leak before we encountered BY THE NATIVES. 277 another gale. These reasons induced me to steer for the inlet, which we had no sooner reached than the weather became so foggy that we could not see a mile before us, and it became necessary to secure the ships in some place to wait for a clearer sky. With this view I hauled close under Cape Hinchingbroke, and anchored before a small cove a little within the cape, in eight fathoms water, a clayey bottom, and about a ouarter of a mile from the shore. The boats were then hoisted out, some to sound and others to fish. The seine was drawn in the cove, but with- out success, for it was torn. At some short intervals the fog cleared away and gave us a sight of the lands around us. The cape bore S. by W. half W., one league distant ; the W. point ot the inlet SW. by W., distant five leagues ; and the land on that side ex- tended as far as AV. by N. Between this point and NW. by W. wo could see no land ; and what was in the last direction seemed to be at a great dis* tance. The westernmost point we had in sight on the north shore bore NNW. half W., two leagues distant. Between this point and the shore under which we were at anchor, is a bay about three leagues deep ; on the south-east side of which there are two or three coves such as that before which we had anchored, and in the middle some rocky islands. To these islands Mr Gore was sent in a boat, in hopes of shooting some eatable birds. But he had hardly got to them before about twenty natives made their appearance in two large canoes ; on which he thought proper to return to the ships, and they fol- lowed him. They would not venture alongside, but kept at some distance, hallooing aloud, and alternately clasp- ing and extending their arms ; and m a short time began a kind of song, exactly after the manner of those at Nootka. Their heads were also pow- dered with feathers. One man neld out a white garment, which we inter- preted as a sign of friendship; and another stood up in the canoe, quit«> raked, for almost a quarter of an hour, ■a. p I M Ah '.M ! 278 with hifl anns stretched out like a cross ;miJ motionless. The canoes were not constructed of wood as «t Kill/,' George's or NootKa Hound. Tlie framo only, being slenilfr lafhs, was of that Hul'stsiiicc; tlio outside con- sisting of Uie sldns of sejils or of such like auiinals.' Though we returned all their signs of friendship, and by every expressive gesture tried to en- courage them to come alongside, we could not prevail. Some of our peo- ple repeated several of the common words of the Nootka language, such as " seekeniaile " and "niahook;"' hut they did not seem to understand them. i\fter receiving some presents which wcio tlirown to them, they retired toward that part of the short- whence they came ; giving us to understaml by signs that they would visit us again the next morning. Two of them, however, each in a small canoe, waited upon us in the night ; probably with a design to jiilfcr some- thing, thinking we should be all asleep, for they retired as soon as they found themselves discovered. Duiing the night the wind was at SSE., blowing liard and in squalls, with rain and very tbirk weatlser. At 10 o'clock next mori 'Ug the wind became more moderate, and the weather being somewhat clearer we S;ot under sail, in order to look out or some snug place where we might (Search for and stop the leak^ our present station being tno much ex- posed for this purpo' At firet I proposed to have g' up tlie bay before which we hac mchored ; but the cioamess of the wcutlier tempted me to steer to the northward, fiiithcr up the great inlet, as being all in our way. As soon as we had passed the north-west point of the bay above mentioned, we, found the coast on that side to turn short to the east- ^ Like the **oomyaks,"or women s canoes, of the Greenlanders ; as to which Dr Rae, of Arctic renown, has given such a pleasant description of COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. II I. B. I V. Cb. 17. ward. I did not follow it, but con- tinued our course to the north, for a point of land which we saw in that direction. The natives who visited us the preceding evening came oil again in the morning, in fivo or six canoes, but not till we were under sail ; and although they followed us for some time they could not get up with us. Before two in the afternoon the bad weather returned again, with so thick a haze that we could see no other land besides the point just men- tioned, which we rea(died at half- past four, and found it to be a small island, lying about two miles from the ad- jacent coast, being a point of land on the east side of which we discovered a fine bay or rather hiirbour. To this we plied up under reefed topsails and courses. The wind blew strong at SE., and in excessively hard squalls, with rain. At intervals we could see land in every direction ; but in general the weather was so foggy that we could see none but the slioies of the bay into which we were plying. In pass- ing the island the depth of water was twenty-six fathoms, ivith a muddy bottom. Soon after the depth in- creased to sixty and seventy fathoms, a rocky bottom ; but in the entrance of the bav the depth was from thii-ty to six fatfioms, the last very near the shore. At length, at 8 o clock, the violence of the squalls obliged us to anchor in thirteen fathoms, before we had got so fjir into the bay as I intend- Ui in "The Land of 18 experiences, Desolation." ■ •* Iron " or m^tal ; and "barter." ed ; but we thoiight ourselves fortunate that we had already sufiiciently secured ourselves at this hour, for the night was exceedingly stormy. The weatiior, bad as It was, did not hinder three of the natives from pay- ing us a v'sit. They came oft" in two canoes ; two men in one, and one in the other, being the number each could carry. For they were built and constructed in the same manner with those of the Esquimaux ; only in the one were t^o holes for two men to sit in, and in the other but one. Each of these men had a stick about three feet long, with the large feathers or wing of birds tied to it. These they freijueutly held up to us, with a view, Mat 1778.] ATTEMPT TO PLUNDER THE DISCOVERY. 270 88 we jessed, to express their pacific disposition. The treatment these men met with induced many more to visit ns, between one and two the next morning, in both great and small canoes. Some ventured on board the ship, but not till some of our people had stepped into their boats. Amongst those who came on board was a good* looking middle-aged man, whom we afterward found to be the chief. He was clothed in a dress made of the spa-otter's skin, and had on his head such a cap as is worn by the people of King George's Sound, ornam ented with sky-blue glass beads about the size of a large pea. He seemed to set a much higher value upon these than upon our white glass beads. Any sort of beads, however, appeared to be in high estimation with these people ; and they readily gave whatever they had in exchange for them, even their tiue sea-otter skins. But here I must ob- serve that they set no more value upon these than upon other skins, which was also the case at King George's Sound till our people set a liigher price upon them ; and even after that the natives of both places would sooner part with a dress made of these than with one made of the skins of wild- cats or of martins. These people were also desirous of iron ; but they wanted pieces eight or ten inches long at least, and of the breadth of three or four fingers ; for they absolutely rejected small pieces. Consequently they got but little from us, iron having by this time become rather a scarce article. The points of some of their spears or lances were of that metal, others were of copper, and a few of bone, of whicli the points of their darts, arrows, &c., were com- posed. I could not prevail upon tlie chief to trust himself below the uppor deck ; nor did he .and his companions remain long on board. But while we had their company it was necessary to watch them narrowly, as they soon betrayed a thievislx disposition. At length, after bein^ about three or four hours alongsiile the Resolution, they all leit her and went to the Discovery ; none liaving been there before except one man, who, at this time came from her, and immediately returu )d thither in company with the rest. When 1 observed this, I thought this man had met with something there which he knew would please his countrymen better than what they met with at our ship. But in this I was mis- taken, as will soon appear. As soon as they were gone I sent a boat to sound the head of the bay. ^'or as the wind was moderate I had oughts of laying the ship ashore, a a convenient place could be found where I might begin our operations to stop the leak. It was not long before all the Americans left the Dis- covery, and, instead of returning to us, made their way toward our boat employed as above. The officer la her, seeing this, returned to the ship, and was lul lowed by all the canoes. The boat's crew had. no sooner come on board, leaving in her two of their number by way of a guard, than some of the Americans stepped into her. Some presented their spears before the two luen ; others cast loose the rope which fastened her to the ship ; and the rest attempted to tow her away. But the instant they saw us preparing to oppose them they let her go, stepped out of her into canoes, and made signs to as to lay down our arms, having the appearance of being as perfectly unconcerned as if they haa done nothing amiss. This, though rather a more daring attempt, was hardly equal to what they had mili- tated on board the Discovery. The man who came and carried all his countrymen from the Resolution to the other Sulp had first been on board of her ; where, after looking down all the hatchways, and seeing nobody but the otficer of the watch and one or two more, he no doubt thought they might plunder her with ease ; especially as she lay at some distance from us. It was unquestionably with this view that they all repaired to her. Several of them, without any ceremony, went on board, drew their knives, made signs to the officer and people on deck to keep off, and began to look about them for plunder. The first thing ^( iH I' «! 11 f'! 280 \ t Uiey met with wai the t adder of one of the boats, which they threw over- board to those of their {mrty who had remained in the canoes. Refore they had time to find another object that pleased their fancy, the crew were alarmed, and began to come upon deck arme >ats, ^^ g(H to an anchor iindef tho «Ms»>*m *iiore in tiiirtcon fathoms prater, umd about four leayues to the ii^»rth of our last Statiou. In the morning the weather had been very liazy, hut it aff<*rwanl« cleared u/> so as to give us « >'.. iiut view of all the land round u«, jiarti- cularly to the northward, whtnre it seemed to close. This hft ns but little hopes of finding a }>assage that PklXCE WILLIAMS SOUND. \'look, with ti. 2S1 part of Haffin's or of Hudson's r>ay; Mid wb*tever passage there may l>e, it m(M< lif, or at least part of ii must lie. lo the north of Latitude 72*. W iitj cuuld exi»ect to fiud • paaMgc «f strait of such ext<^nt ? ' "[To this wi«lrt inlft which he had entered, (Joolc gavej the name of Pnw* William's Soun 1, and here w*» mirpriRed to find that the natives, in (t-'ess, langnage, and physical pecu* of Hudson's Bay. Beautiful were obtained in plenty from way, or indeed in any other directiou, lianmes, were exactly like the Esqui without putting out a;;;ain to sea. To enable me to form a better ju'i fo- ment, 1 despatchetl Mr Gore witjj twi> armed boats to examine the northern arm, and the master with two other boats to examine another arm that seemed to take an easterly direction. Late in the evening they both r^rturned. The master rejiorted thai the arm he had been sent to communicatpd with that from which he had la.st come, and that one side of it was only formed by a group of islands. Mr Gon* in- fcu'med me that he had seen tiie en- trance of an arm which, he was of opinion, exteiulcd a long way to the north-east, anil that probably by it a Eassage might be found. On the other and, ^Ir Iloborts, one of the mates whom I had sent with Mr Goro to sketch out the parts they had ex- amined, was of opinion that they saw the head of this arm. Tlie disagree- ment of these two opinions, and the circumstance already mentioned of the flood-tide entering the sound from the south, rendered the existence of a passage this way very doubtful. And as the wind in tho morning had be- come favourable for getting out to sea, I resolved to spend no more time in searching for a pa.ssage in a place that promised so little success IV^sides thi?, I considered that if the lariea- mea to salt provisions." We now stood to ilie southward, and afti-r ruuiiin;; six l;agues shoaled the water to seven fath(»ins ; but it soon deepened to nine fathoms. At this time the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up a little; we miw land extending from S. to SIC. by E. about thiec or four mih's iii>timt. The eastern extreme forms a point which was much encumbered with ice; for whii;h reason it obtiiined the name of Icy Cape. Its latitude is 70° 29' and its longitude 198° 20'. The other e.\tronio of the land was lost in the horizon, so that there can be no doubt of its being a contniuation of the American c atinent. The Discovery being about a mile astern and tc» leeward, found less vvat'ir than we did ; and tacking on that account, I was obliged to tack also to prevent sepantion. Our situa- tion was now more ami more critical. We were in shoal water, upon a lee shore, and the main body of the ice to windward, driving down upon us. It was evident that if we remained much h)nger between it and the laud, it would force us ashore, unless it should happen to take the ground befoie us. It seemed nearly to join the land to leeward, and the only di- rection that was open was to the SW. After Tuaking a short board to tho north ward, 1 made tlie signal for the Discovery to tack, and tacked myself at the same time. The wind proved rather favourable; so that we lay up «W. uy\ aW. by W. Ateight in the morning of the 19th, ll'e wind veeiiuu' back to VV., 1 tacked (o tho ■lurthwarl; and at noon tho too close, and in too largo pieces, to attempt forcing the slii])S throiigh it. On the ice lay a prodigious number of sea-horses;' and as we were in want of fresh provisions, the boats from each .-.hip were sent to get some. I'y 7 o'clock in the evening wo had received on board the llesolution nine of these animals, which till now we had supposed to be sea-cows; so that we were not a little disajtpointed, es]ieci!illy some of the soinien, who for the iioveltv of the thing had been fi'fwting thtir eyes for sonu! days past. Nor would they have been disap- ji'iinted now, nor have known tl.a dillerence, if wo had not haj)pened to have one or two on board who had bii-n in Greenland, and declared what animals these were, and that no one ever ate of them. Hut notwithstand- ing this we lived ui)on them aa long as they lasted; ana there were few on board who did not prefer them to our salt uteat. The fat at first is as sweet as Jnarrow, but in a few days it grows rancitl, unless it be salted ; in which state it will keep much longer. The lean llesh is coarse, black, and has rather a strong tjuite ; and tho heart is nearly as well tasted as that of a bullock. The fat, when melted, yields a good deal of oil, which burns very well in lamps; and their hides, which are very tliick, were very use- ful about our rigging. The teeth or tusks of most of tlnjin were at thif time very small; even some of the largest snd oldest of these animals had them not exceeding six inches in length. From this we concluded that lliey had latel}' shed their i/ld teeth. They lie in herds of many hundreds upon the ice, huddling one over tha other like swine; and roar or bray very load, so that in the night or in » Walrut. \vo. 1778.] rriE 8EA.H0RS ft.g-jy weather th^y oave iis notice of j thi- vioiiiity jf tlie i(*e Ixjfore we could I M-e it. We n-'Vcr found the whole ' lienl asleep, somp being always iijion i the watch. These, on the apiuo.ich vf the boat, wotild wak** those iit'xt to them, and the aliinn beinj^ thiu gradiLilly coninmni'.'ated, the whole ijerd would be awakn itieseiitly. I'ut they wt'i-f st'Mom in a hurry to gt-t ftw;iy till after tlicv had been once fired at. Tlien lliey would tinnble OTie over the otlicr int'i *!ie. sea in the utmost confusion ; ami if we did not at the first disehari,'e kill tlioso we tired at, wo generally lost tliein, though mortally woiitided. They •lid not ajijiear to us to be that daii- ^;<'i'»iis animal some authors h;ive de- .'•cribcd, ni't even when attat^ked. They are ratiier iiiore so to appear- a'lee than in reality. VaNt numbers of them wouhl follow and eome idoso n\} to the Ixjats ; but the Hash of a niusket in the pan, or even the bare p<»intiiig of one at tliem, woidd send them down in an instant. Tlie fenmle will defend the young one to the very la.st, and at the expense of her own lile, whether in the water or upon the ice. Nor will the young one (juit the dam though she be dead ; 80 that if you kill one you are sure of t' 3 other. The dam, when in the water, holds the young one between her fore-fins. "Why they should be calletl sea-horses is hard to say, unless the word be a corruption of the Rus- sian name "morse," for they have not the lea.«t resemblance of a horse. This is without dou!it the same ani- mal that is found in the Oulf of St Lawrence, and there called sea-cow. It is ceitainly m"ri; like a cow than a hoi-se, l)tit this likeness consists in nothing but the suout. lu short, it is an animal like a seal, but incom- paribly larger. The dimensions and weight of one, which was none of the large.<»t, were as follows : I't la. L«:igtb from tlio snout to the tail 4 Length of the neck from tbe snout to the .shoulder-bone, 2 6 Height of the s}"»ulder, . 5 Ft h. 2 4 2 6 1 24 2 H 1 3 2 7 7 10 5 A 7 U>. e r.4 4U K, OR WALKUS. -83 I*:>gth -t the fina, * f,"^": * Breadtli ot the fiu.->, •, ,,' ', I li.'eS, . Snout, \ ^^'^^ ' ' • ( Peptn, Circumference of tli- ur>]i close to til** er-.rs, Circumrerpnoe of tii«; ^ • dy at the sliuuMer, . Circumference near tLe hind fins, .... From the snout to the ryes, . Weight of the c;uc;i.->«-, .vithxut the head, skiu, ur «t.truiis. Head, Skill, "JOii I cnnid no* fir* 1 out ^Lat t'.ese ani- maN feed i\[» Jatc we ii.t-l fre- iiueiitly st.en flock* of 'iuck-s flying to tlie southward. Th< y weie fif two sort^, tile one mnrh 1 iTg«'r than the other. The largest were of a brown colour ; and of the 8n.:iil sort either the duck or drake w:t8 black aud white, and tlie otht-r brown. Some said they saw geese hIsu. Does not this indicate that there nir.;»t be laTid to the north where tliex- birds find shelter in the pro{»er s»-:t.>- n, to breed, and whence they \ver« now returning to a waimier climate * liy the time we l.aareiit ice, except the upper surface, which was a little porous. It apjieared to be entirely coniitosed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed at sea. For setting aside the improbability, or rj-.taer im- possibility, of such huge mf sses tluat- ing out of rivers in which there is hudly water for a boat, none of the productions of the land were found iucor{H)rated or fixed in it, which must have unavoidably been the case had it been formed in rivers either sreat or small. The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the field were from forty to filty yards in extent to four or five ; and I judged that the larger pieces reached thirty feet or more under the surface of the water. It also appeared to me very improb- able that this ice could have been the production of the j»receding winter alone ; I should suppose it rather to huve been the production of a great many winters. Nor was it less im- probable, according to my judgment, that the little that remained of the summer could destroy the tenth part of what DOW subsisted of this mass ; for the sun had already exerted ui>on it the full influence of its rays. Indeed I am of opinion that the sun contri- butes very little toward reducing these great nuisses. For although that luminary is a considerable while above the horizon, it seldom shines out for more than a few hours at a time, and is not seen for several days in succes- sion. It is the wiud, or rather the waves raised by the wind, that bring down the bulk of these enormous masses, by grinding one piece against another, and by undermining and washing away those parts that lie ex- posed to the surge of the sea. This was evident from our observing that the upper surface of many pieces had been partly washed away, while the bahe or under part remained firm for several fathoms round that which ap- peared above water, exactly like a shoal round an elevated rock. We measured the depth of water upou one. and fonnd it to bo fifteen feet, so that the shim might have saile a blulT point, being one of the hills ahuve mentioned. The weather at tliis time was very hazy, with drizzling raiti, hut 80(»n after it cleared, especially !> tho southward, westward, and nurtli- ward. Tliis enabled us to have a pretty good view of the coast, which in every respect is like the opposite one of America; that is, low land j next the sea, with elovatod land far- ther back. It was j)erlt'ctly destitnte of wood, and even snow, but was probably covered with a mossy sub- stance tliat p);ve it a brownish cast. In the low ground lying between the higli land and the sea was a lake ex- tending to the SE. farther than we could see. As we stood off, the westernmost of the two hills before mentioned came open off the blnlf iKiint in the direction of NW. It had the appearance of being an island ; but it might be joined to the other by low land, though we did not see it; and if so there is a two-fold point, with a bay Iwtween thorn. This point, which is steep and rocky, was named Cape North. Its situation is nearly in the Latitude of 68" 66', and in the Longitude of 180" 51'. The coast beyond it must take a very westerly direction, for we could see no land to the northward of it, though the hori- zon was there pretty clear. Being desirous of seeing more of the coast to the westward, we tacked again at 2 o'clock in the afternoon, thinking we could weather Cajte North ; but finding we could not, the wind fresh- ening, a thick fog coming on with much snow, and being fearful of the ice coming down upon us, 1 gave up the design I had formedof plying to the westward, and stood oif shore again. The sea.son was now so far advanced, and the time when the frost is ex- pected to set in so near at hand, that I did not think it consistent with pradence to make any further at- tempts to find a passage into the Atlantic this year in any direction, 10 little was the prospect of succeed- ing. My attention was now directed toward finding out some place where wo might supply ourselves with wood and water; and the object upiK>rin<)«t in my tliought^j w;is how I should spent! the winter so as to make some improvements in g.'(.grii|>hy and navi- gation, and .it the. s.iiiie time be in a condition to return to tho north in further bcarch of a ])assiigc' the ensuing* summer. CIIAPTEU V.» Aftrr liaving stood off till wn (rot into eighteen fathoms water, I bore up to the eastward along the coast, which by this time it was pretty cer- tain could only be the continent of Asia. As the wind blew fresh, with a very heavy full of snow atd a thick mist, it was necessary to ]>roceed with great caution. I therefore brought to for a few lioura in the night. At daybreak ou the 30th we made Kail, ans a narrow channel leading into some water that we saw over the point. Probably the lake before mentioned communicates here with the sea. At noon, the mist dispersing for a short interval, we had a tolerably good view of the coast, which extended from SE. to NW. by W. Some parts ap- l>eared higher than others, but in general it was very low, with high land farther up the country. The whole was now covered with snow, which had lately fallen, quite down to the sea. I continued to range along tie coast at two leagues' dis- tance till ten at night, when we hauled off; but we resumed our course * Chapter X. in Original Editioa. ap« SErT.1778.] nETITRN ALONG next morning soon aftor .layl'ro.ik, whea we got sight of the coiist again, extending from W. to jK. by S. At eight tho eastern ]»art bore S., and proved to be an ishmd, which at noon bore SW. half S. four or five niih-s distant. It is abont four or five miles in circuit, of a middling height, with a steejs rocky coast, situated about three Ifagucs iVoiu the main, in the liHtitudo of 67° 45', and distinguished in the chait by the name of Hurney's Island. The inland country here- abouts is fall of hills, some of which are of a :;onsiderable height. The land was covered with snow, except » few spots upon the sea-coast, which still continued low, but less so than farther westward. For the two ()re- ceding days the main height of tiu* mercury in the thermometer had been very liltK' above tlm freezing point, and often below it; so that tije water in the vessels upon the deck was fre- quently ct>vered with a sheet of ice. I continued to steer SSF^., nearly in the direction of the coast, till five in the afternoon, when land was seen bearing S. 50° E., which we presently found to be a continuation of tht^ GOa.st, and hauled up for it. Being abreast of the eaatern land at ton at night, and in doubts of weathering it, we tacked and made a board to the westward till past one the next morn- ing, when we stood again to the K, and found that it was as much as we could do to keep our distance from the coast ; the wind being exceedingly unsettled, varying continually from N. to NE. At half-an-hour past eight, the eastern extreme above mentioned bore S. by E. six or seven miles distant. At the same time a headland appeared in sight bearing E. by S. hall S., and soon aftor we could trace the whole coast lying be- tween them, and a small island at some distance from it. The coast seemed to form several rocky points, connected by a }}W shore, without the least appearr.iice of a harbour. At some distance from the sea the low land appeared to swell into a number of hills. The highest of these were covered with snow, and in other COAST OF APIA. 2fi7 rosiMscts the whole country ee* n»oi naked. At seven in tho evening two points of land, at some distant' be- yond the eastern head, opened olf it in the direction of S. 37 E. 1 was now well assured of what 1 b;ul be- lieved before, that this was th*; coun- try of the Tschutski, or tin? nortlj-east coast of Asia, and th.;t tiius far Heh- ring proceeded in 17-S ; that is, to this head, which MuUor says is called Serdze K.inien, oji aiictmnt of a roclv upon it shapid like a heart i'ut I conceive that Mr Chiller's knowledge of the geography of these j'arts is very irar»errect. There are many elevated rocKs uj>on this cape, and possibly some one or other of them may have the shape of a heart. It is a j)retty lofty promontory, wila a steep rocky clid" facing the sea, and lies in the Latitude of 67° 3', and in the. I.ongi- tude of 1 >^S° 1 1 '. To the eastward' of it the coast is high and bold ; but to the westward it is low, and trends NNW. and XW. bv W., which is nearly its (iirection all the way to C'aj»e Nortli. The soundings are everyAvhere the same at the same distance from the shore, which is also tho case on the opposite shore of America. Tho greatest depth we found in ranging alojig it was twenty-three fathoms. And in tho night, or in foggy weather, the soundings are no bad guide in sailing along either of these shores. At 8 o'clock in the morning of the 2d the most advanced laud to the 8 \i. bore S. 25° E., and from this point of view had the appearance of being an island. But tae thick snow showers which succeec ed one another pretty fsist, and settled upon the land, hid groat part of the coast at this time from our sight. Soon after, the sun, whose face we bad not seen for near five days, broke out at intervals l)e- tween the showers, and in some measure freed the coast from the fo^ so that we had a sight of it, and found the whole to be connected. The wind still continued at N., the air was cold, and the mercury in the thermometer never rose above 85° and was sometimes as low as 80'. At noon, the observed Latitude was 66* I 4 I! i ill H I i < ■ ■■1 . i 1 5 iiL 288 COOK'S yoVAORS. [Voy.III. B.iV.CJL V. 87'. We had now fair weather and bi^ants at the place u-hcro I iiad scoo sunshine; and ns wo r(iij^<'il along them before, as well ns sevt-ral »ither& tlio coast, at the distniice c-f tour nnica, on the opjHJsite side of ihu bay. None wa saw several of the inhnbitanta, I of them, liowuver, attempted to come and some of their habitations, whirh oifto us ; which seemed a little extra- louked like little hillocks of e.irtii, In the evening wu passed the Eustern Cajte, or the point above mentioned, from which the cotust changes it>s diiec'tion and trends SVV. It is the Kitiie point of land which we had pasM'd on the 11th of Augtist. They who believed ini]ilicitly in l^lr Stieh- lin's map then thought it the east fiuint of his island Alashka ; but we lad by this time satisfied ourselves that it is no otlier than tlie eastern promontory of Asia, and probably the proper Tschukotskoi Noss, though the promontory to which Hehring gave thai name is farther to theSW. It is a peninsula of considerable height, joined to the continent by a very low and, to aftpcarancc, narrow neck of lond. It shows a steep rocky cliif next the sea, and off the very point are some rocks like spires. It is situated in the Latitude of 66* 6', and in the Longitude of 190° 22', and is distant, from Cape I'riuce of WaN^s, on the American coast, thirteen leagues, in the direction of N. 63" W. The land about this promontory is com- posed of hills and valleys. The former terminate at the sea in steep rocky points, and the latter in low shores. The hills seemed to be naked rocks, but the valleys had a greenish hue, but destitute of tree or shrub. ^ After ))iissing the cape, I steered 8W. half W., for the northern point of St Laurence Bay, in which wo had smchored on the 10th of last month. Wo reached it by 8 o'clock next morning, and saw some of the iuha- ^ Deshniew's voyage in 1648, in auest of the Anadir Kiver, is consi* ered the only one before Cook's in which the north-eastern extremity of Asia was doubled. The Cossack navi- gator set out from the Kolima river in northern Siberia, and passcul .south- wards through Behring's Straits — not then, of course, su named, or named at all — to the mouth of the Anadir. ordinary, as the wejither was favour- able enough, and those whom we had lately visited had no reason that I know of to dislike our company. These people must be the Tschutski ; a nation that, at the time Mr Muller wrote, the Russians had not been able to concpier. And from the whole of their conduct with us it appears that they have not as yet brought them under subjection ; though it is obvious that they must have a trade with the Russians, either directly or by nieans of some neighbouring nation, as we cannot otherwise account for their being in jvosseshiun of the sjiontoons, in jiarticular, of which we took notice. I'liis Bay of St Laurence" is at least five leaj^nes broad at the entrance, a:jd four leagues deep, narrowing to- ward the bottom, where it appeared to be tolerably well sheltered from the sea-winds, jirovided there be sullicient d(qith of water for sliips. I did not wait to examine ii, altliough I was very desirous of finding an harbour in those parts to which I might resort next spring. But I wanted one where wood might be got, 8 td I knew that none was to be found here. From the south i)oint of this bay, which lies in the Latitude of 65° 30', the coast trends \V. by S. for about nine leagues, and there forms a deep bay or river ; or else the land tliere is so low that wo could not see it. At one in the afternoon, in the direction of our course, we saw what was first taken for a rock ; but it proved to bo a de-id whale, which some natives of the Asiatic coast had killed and were tow- ' Ca[)tain Cook gives it this name, having anchored in it on St Laurence's day, August 10. It is remarkable that Behriiig sailed past this very place on the 10th of August 1728 ; on which account the neighbouring island was named by him after the same saint — NoU in OrigincU Edi- tion. \ river ; iiiime. I Srpt. 1778.] REMAltKS ON ing aaliore. They seenied to conceal themselves behind the fish to avoid being seen by us. This whs unnecps- saiy ; for we pursued our lourse with- out taking any notice of thfin. At daybreak on the 4th 1 hauled to the NW., in order to get a nearer yiew of the inlet seen the jiroceding day ; but the wind soon after veering to that direction 1 gave uj» the design, and, Bteering to the Hoiithwartl along thfi coast, passed two bays, earh aliout two leagues deep. The noilliernmost lies before a hill which is remarkable by being rounder than any other upon the const ; and there is an island lying before the other. It may be doubted whether there be a sufficient depth for ehips in t'itli»*r of these bays, as we always met with slioal water when we edged in for thf shore. The country here is exceedingly hilly and naked. In several places on the low ground next the tea were the dwell- ings of the natives : and near all of them were erected stages of bones, Buch as before described. These may be seen at a great distance on account of their whit* iiess. At noon the I.ati- tude was 64° 68' and the Longitude 188° 15' ; the southernmost point of the main in sight bore S. 48° W., and tlie nearest shore about three or four leagues distant. By this time the nrind had veered again to the N., and blew a gentle breeze. The weather was clear, and tlie air cold. 1 did not follow the direction of the coast, as I found that it took Ta westerly ditection toward the Gnlf of Anadir, into which I had no inducement to go, but steered to the south waid, in order to get a sight of the Islam! of St Ijaurence, discovered by Hehriug ; which accordingly showed itself, and at 8 o'clock in the evening it bore S. 20° E., by estimation, eleven leagues distant. At the same time the Routh- emmost point of the mainland bore S. 83° W., distant twelve leagnes. I take this point to be the point which Behring calls the Kast Point of Su- chotski, or Cape Tschukotskoi; a name which he gave it, and with propriety, because it was from tliis part of the i^Qijat that the natives came off to him P.ETTRINO'S VOVAOK. 2S0 who called themselves of the nation oi the Tschntski. I make its Latitude to be 64° 13' and its Longitude lf6* 36'. In justice to the memory of Reh- ring, I must say that he has delineated tlie coast very well, and fixed the latitude an ^(i ill oiiici t filled with ja'ople coining oil toward us. I bion^dit to, that tliey might have time to conte iij*. Pint il was to ijo Tjuirposo ; fur, resi.>tit.^j:ill llie si;^Mis of friendship we i:joiut lying iu the i.atitude '21', and in the Longitude of 197 ; .eyond which the coast take, a more northerly direc- tion. At eight this ]»oint, which obtained the name of ''aj-e T):iiliy, bore S. 62° W, ; the nuiihcruni.jst w:id in sight, N. 32° E. ; uud tho nearest shore three miles distant. In this situation we anchored in thir- teen fathoms water, over a muddy bottom. Next morning at daybreak we weigh- ed and sailed along the c(»ast. Two islands, as we supposed them to be, were at thi.s time seen ; tlie une n-ur- ing S. 70' v.. and tlie other E. Soon after, we found ourselves upon a const covered with wood; an agreeable sight, to which of Lite we had not been accustomed. As we advanced to tl:« north, wo raised land iu the direction of NE. liidf N., whicli jirove^'i,'e.r th m broom stntF. Wf observed traiks of deer and loxes ou tlie beach, on which aIho lay a grnat qu:intity of (Irilt-wui.d ; and tlaMo wiis no want of fresh water. I rcturnetl on Ijoard with an inteiition to brini; the ships to an anchor here ; but the wind then veering to SI'.., which blew rather on this sliore, I Btretchcd over to the opjKtsite one in the expectation of finding wood there also, and nnchored at 8 o'clock in the evening under the soutli end ol the northernmost island. So wo then 8upp<»sed it to be : but n>'xf Tii.'>ri)iii'^' wo found it to be a peninsula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, on each .sill.; of which the co;ust forms c bay. We ])licd into the southern- most, and about noon anchored in five fathoms water, over a bottom of mud ; the ]»oint of the jveninsula, which obtained the name of Cape Denbigh, bearing N. 68° W., three miles distant. Sorcral |>cople were seen upon the peninsula ; and one man came otf in a s!ii:ill cunut^. I gave him a knife anil a tew beads, with which he soemed well pleased. Having niade signs to him to bring ns something to eat, he immediately left us and paddled tr.ward the shore. But meeting another man coming otf, who happened to have two dried sal- mon, he got them from him, and ou returning to the ship would give tliem to nobody but me. Some of our peo])le thouglit that h*i asked fur me under the name of "Capitane;" but in this th.*y were probably mistaken. He knev^ who had given him the knife and bev-d.s, but I do not see how he could know that I was the captain. Others of the natives soon after c;ime olT, and exchanged a few dry ti.->!i for auch trifles as they could get or we had to give them. They were most dtwirous of knive.s ; and tbey hail no dirlike to tob:icco. Kttar dinner Lieutenant Qore was DENRIOH. sent to the i>«ninf»ula, to t: .N.I Jf WOOil nni w;iter were l^icre to Iw ^ot, or raih.r \v)iter, for th" wholo beach rouini the li.'V .seemed to tie covered wit.'j dntt-Wdiid. At the siinie time a boat was si lit from each .>-.hip to sound round the biv ; and at three in the arterno-in, the wind freshening at N'K., we weigh(»l in order to work farther in. lint it was .soon found to lie impossible, ou account of the shoals, which exti'iidod tiuite round the l»iiv to the dist anco ot two or three inih^s from til'.' shi'jv, lis the olli.urs who had b.'cn sent to sound reported. We liierelore kept standing uiX and on with the shi]>s, waiting for Mr (Vuc, who n^turneil about 8 o'l luck with the launch laden with wood, lie reported tiiat there was hut little fnish water ; and that wood was dilli'ult to be got at, by reiuson of the boats grounding at some di.staru'e from tluvbeach. Thi.s being the ca.se, 1 stood back to the olher shore ; and at 8 o'clock the I n(!Xt morning sent all the boata and I a party of men, with an olHcer, to j get wootl from the place where I had ] landed two days before. W^e con- tinued for a while to stand on and oil with the ships, but at length came to an anchor in one-fourth less than five fathom ^, balf-a-lc igue from the coast, the soutli jioint of which bore S. 26° W., and n.ild Head N. 6{f K., nine l.aguesdistant. Cape Denbigh bore 8. Ti"" E., twenty-six miles distaut ; and the island uiuler the east shore, to the southward of Cape Denbigh, named IJessborough Island, S. 52' E., tifteen leagues distaut. As this was a very open roa*l, and consequently not a .safe station, I re- solve.-I not to wait to complete water, &.< that w(uild require some time ; but only to suftply the ships with wood, and then to go in search of a more convenient place for the other article. "We took oil the drift-wood that lay upon the beach ; and as the wind blew along shore the boats could sail both ways, wiiich enabled us to make great despiitch. In the afternoon I went asliore and walked a little into the country ; wliich, where there was no wood, wjis covered with heath and other plants, soue of which produce berries in abundance. All the berries were ripe, the hurtle-berries' too mucli so ; and iiardly a Hin^'le plant was in flower. The uinlerwotMi, such as birch, willows, a!)d alders, rondoreil it very trotiblesoine walkir.^ utnonj; the trees, which were all spDiee, and none of them al>ove six or ei^ht intdie.s in dia- meter. But we f()unorod ; and they had in their possession some such glass beads as I liad met with before amongst their neighbours. Hut iron was their beloved article. For four knives, which we had made out of an old iron hoop, I got from them near 400 pounds weight of fish, which they uad caught on this or the )>re- ceding day. Some were trout, and the rest were in size and taste some- what between a mullet and a herring. I gave the child, who was a girl, a few beads ; on which the niotner burst into tears, then the father, then the cripide, and at last, to complete the concert, the giil herself; but this music continued not long. I>efore night we had got the ships amply supplied with wood, and had earned on Doard about twelve tons of water to each. On the 14th a party of niMi were sent on shore to cut brooms, which we were in want of, and the branches of spruce trees for brewing beer. To- wards noon everybody was taken on * "WhortJe-berrieSj bilberries. COOK'S VOYAHKS. fVoT.Tn.B.IV.CH. V. board ; for the wind freshening had raised such a surf on the beach that the lioats could not continue to land without great difliculty. Some doubts being still entertained whether the coast we were now upon bclong<'d to an island or the American continent, and the shallowness of the water ]>ut- tin^ it out of otir power to detenrine this with our slips, 1 sent Lieutenant King with two boats under his com- mand to make such sean'lie.s as might leave no room for a variety of opinions on the subject. Next day the shiiis removed over to the bay which is on the south-east side of Cape Denbigh, where we anchored in the afternoon. Si»on after, a few of the natives came oir in their small canoes, and l-artcrcl soiiio dried salmon for such trilles tta our people had to give rl:ein. At daybreak on tiie Ititli, nine men, each in his canoe, paid us a visit. They approached the ship with some caution, and evidently came with no other view than to gratify their curi- osity. They drew up abieast of each other under our stern, and gave us a song ; while one of their number beat upon a kind of drum, and another made a thousand antic motions with his hands and body. There was, how- ever, nothing savage either in the song or in the gestures that accom- panied it. None of us could perceive any difference between those i)eople, either as to their size or features, and those whom we had met with on every other part of the coast. King George's Sound excepted. Their clothing, which consisted principally of deer-skins, was made after the same fashion ; and they observed the custom ofboring their under lips, and fixing ornaments to them. The dwellings of tliese people were seated close to the beach. They consist simply of a sloping roof, without any side walls, composed of logs and covered with grass and earth. The floor is also laid with logs ; the en- trance is at one end, the fireplace just within it, and a small hole is made near the door to let out the smoke. After breakfast a T>arty of men were sent to the peninsula for brooms ^j\^ 8«rr. 1778.] f qTUce. At the B;inie time Imlf the n'liiaiuder of the i»ou|>Io in each nhip hail leave to go and |iick berries. These returnod o.i board at uoon, when the other halt' went on the same errand. The berries to \o got hero were wild currant- 1 terries, part- ridge-berries, and heath -berries. I also went ashore myself and wr.lked over part of the peninsula. In several i)laoes there was very good grass, and hardly saw a spot on which some vegetable was not growing. The low land which connects this peninsula with the continent is full of narrow creeks, and abounds with ponds of water, some of which were already frozen over. There were a great many geese and bustanls, but so shy that it was not possible to get within tnas- ket-shot of them. We also met with some snipes, and on the high ground were partridges of two sorts. Where there was any wood, niostjniloes were in plenty. Some of the oilicei's, who trfi/«jlled farther than I did, met with a few of the natives of both sexes, who treated them with civility. It appeared to me that this peninsula must have been an island in remote times ; for there were marks of the sea having flowed over the isthmus ; and even now it appeared to be kept out by a bank of sand, stones, and wood, thrown up by the waves. By this bank it was evident that the land was here encroaching upon the sea, and it was easy to trace its giadual formation. About seven in the evenin;^ Mr King returned from his expedition, and reported that he proceeded with the boats about three or fcvr leagues farther than the ships had been able to go ; that he then landed on the west side ; that, from the heights ho could see the two coasts join, and the inlet to terminate in a suall river or creek, before which were banks of sand or mud, and everywhere shoal water. The land, too, was low and swampy for some distance to the northward ; then it swelled into hills ; and the complete junction of those on each sLle of the inlet was easily traced. From the elevated spot on PRODUCE OF THE COUNTRY. JlJy which idr King surveyed fhm eonnd. hu could distinguish many extensive valleys, wiih rivers running through tliein, well wnuded, and bounded by hills of a gentle ast cut and nuMlerate In i;4lit. One of these rivers to the tioith-west appeared to be consider- alile ; and fr«»!a its direction he wa« inclined to think that it en)i>tied its(;lf into the sea at the liead of the bay. Some of his people, who pene- trated l>eyond this into the country, found the trees larger the farther they advanced. In honour uf Sir Fletcher Norton,' Speaker of the House of Commons, and Mr King's near rela- tion, 1 named this inlet Norton SouncL It extends to the northward as far as the Latitude of 64" 55'. The bay I; which we were now at anchor lies >! the south-east side of it, and is oil'ed by the natives (Jliack- toolc. It IS b\it an indiM'erent station, being exposeil lo the south and south- west winds ; nor IS there a harbour in all this soumL But we were so for* tunate as to have the wind from the north and north-eaiit all tl.'e time, with remarkably fine weather. Having cow fully satisfied myself that Mr Staihlin's map must be erroneous, and, having restored the American continent to that space which ho had occupied with hi« imaginary island of Ahushka, it wae high time to think of leaving these noithem regions and to retire to some place dnring the winter, where I might procure refreshments for my people, and a small supply of provi- sions. Petropaulowska, or the har- bour of St I'eter and St Paul, in Eamtschatka, did not ap^Ksar likely to furnish eitlier the one or the other for so large a number of men. I had, besides, other reasons for not rejiair- ing thither at this time. The tirst, on which all the others depended, was the great dislike I had to lie in- active for six or seven months, which would have been the necessary conse- quence of wintering in any of these northern parts. No place was ra onveniently within our reach, when* ^ Afterwurda Lord Orantley. I I f i hi ;!, 1: Mi! 5 : ! t ' '" u . li If i \ lusv ia:i-l, but we Siiw high land up 204 COOKS VOVAOKS. [Vov.TII. R.IV.Ch. VI. we could erptvt to have our wants ■ of it are of a ni!y plan was then to jiroceedto 8ai!iL,',;noodha, which was fixed upon as our place of rendezvous in case of separation. CHAPTEli VI. IlAvrao weighed on tlio 17th in the a light breeze at E., we steered to the southward and at- with a light bieezi I to the southward tempted to pass within r.ossborongh Ihlaiid ; but though it lies six or seven miles from the continent, were pre- vente-*!iuitude 197° 41'. Some driit-vvoud w.is swn upon the sli«proach them. As soon as we were without the islaml, we steered S. by W. for the southern- most point of the continent in sight, till S o'clock in the evening, when, having shoal-^d the water from six fatliinns to less than four, I tack.il and stood to the northward into fivo fathoms, and then spent the niglit lying otf and on. At the time we tacked, the southernmost point of land, the same which is mentioned above, and was named Point Shallow Water, bore S. half E. seven leagues distant. We resumed our course to th« southward at daybreak next morning, but shoal water obliged us to haul more to the westward. At length we got so far advanced upon the bank, that we could not hold a NNW. course, meeting sometinuis with only four fathoms. The wind blowing fresh at ENE., it was high time to look for deep water, and to quit a coast upon which wo could no longer navigate with any degree of safety. I therefore hauled the wind to the northward, and gradually deep- tha » «*r.i'T. 1778.] SHOALS ON TIIK ened tlie water to ei,<,'':t fathums. At the timo Wi^ hauled tin? wind we were Bt l«>ast twelve leagues from thft (.'oii- tiaent and nine to tlie westward of Stuart's Island. No land was seen to the southward of Point Shallow Wiiter, wliich I jud;;e to lie iu the Latitude of G'J"; so that hetween tliis hititude ami Shoal Ness, in f/ititude 60", the coast is entirely iincxploii'd. Prohahly it is accessildo only to hoats or very small vessels, or at le.i.st, if there be channels fur larger vessels it would require some time to fiiiil them; ami I ara of o{>ini )!i that they must he looked for near the coast. From the ma.'^t-head, the sea within us appeared to he clmiuored with shoals; the water was vi ry much dis- coloured and muddy, and consider- ably fresher than at any of the places where we had lately anchored. From tliis I inferred that a considerable river runs into the sea in this un- known part.^ As soon ap we got into eight fathoms water I steered to the west- ward, and afterwards more southerly, for the land discovered on the 5th, which at noou the next day boro SW. by W., ten or eleven leagues distant. At this time we had a fresh gale at N., with showers of hail and snow at intervals, and a pretty high sea ; so that we got clear of the shoals but just in time. As I now found that the land before us lay too far to the westward to be Anderson's Island, I named it Gierke's Island. It lies in the Latitude of 63° 15', and in the Longitude of 190° 30'. It seemed to bo a pretty large island, in which ai" four or more hills, all connected by low ground ; so that at a distaiico it looks like a group of islands. Near its east part lies a small island remark- able by hav'ng upon it three elevateil rocks. Not only the grer^er island * In modern mKj>8 a large river named the Kwichpak, taking its rise far inland to the east and south-east, and debouching by several mouths into the sea north of Cape Komanzov, is marked just where Cook conjectured the existence of such a stream. AMERICAN COAST. 2J»5 but t'lis small sj'ot was inhabiteect liad no existence, at least not in the latitude and longi- tude where modern map-makera have thought proper to place them. In the evening of the '24th the wind veered to SW. aud S., and iucreused to a fresh gale. We continued to stretch to the east- ward till 8 o'clock in the moruing of the 25th, when, in the Latitude of 58* 82', and in the Longitude of 191° 10', we tacked and stood to the west ; and soon after, the gale increasing, we were reduced to two courses and close-reefed maintop-sails. Not long after, the Resolution sprang a leak under the starboard buttock, which filled the 8i)irit-room with water before it was discovered ; and it waa so consider- able as to keep one pump constantly employed. We durst not put the ship upon the other tack for fear of getting upon the shoals that lie to the NW. of Cape Newenham ; but continued standing to the west till six in the evening of the 26th, when we wore and stood to the eastward, and then the leak no longer troubled us. This proved that it was above the water line, which was no small satisfaction. The gale was now over, but the wind remained at S. and S W. for some days longer. At length, on the 2d of October at daybreak, we saw the island of Oona- lashka bearing SE. But as this was to us a new point of view, and the land was obscured by a thick haze, we were not sure of our situation till noon, when the observed b^itude de- termined it. As all the harbours were jdike to me provided they were equally safe and convenient, 1 hauled into a bay that lies ten miles to the west- ward of Siimganoodha, kno^n by the name of £goochshac ; but we found very deep water, so that we were glad to get out again. The natives, many of whom lived here, visited us at dif- ferent times, bringing with them dried lalmcn and other fish, which they ex> changed with the seamen for tobacco. Bat a few days before, every ounce of tobacco that was iu the ship had been distributed among them ; aud the quantity was not half ciuificient to answer their demands. Notwith* standing this, so improvident a crea« turc is an English sailor, that they v.'cre as profuse in making their bar- gains as if we had now arrived at a ()ort in Virginia; by which means, in ess than eight-and-forty hours the value of this article of barter was lowered above 1000 per cent. At 1 o'clock iu the afternoon of the 3d we anchored in Samganoodha harbour ; and the next morning the carpenters of both ships were set to work to rip off the sheathing of and under the wale on the starboard side abaft. Many of the seams were found quite oi)en, so that it was no wonder that so much water had found its way iuto the ship. While we lay here we cleared the fish and spirit rooms and tlie after-hold, disposing things in such a manner, that in case we should happen to have any more leaks of the same nature the water might find it way to the pumps. And besides this work, and completing our water, we cleared the forehold to the very bottom, and took in a ([uantity of ballast. The vegetables which we had met with when we were here before were now mostly in a state of decay, so that we were but little benefited by the great quantities of hemes everjrwher* found ashore. In order to avail oii.r- selves as much as ])ossibleof this useful refreshment, one- third of the people by turns had leave to go and pick them. Considerable quantities of them were also procured from the natives. If there were any seeds of the scurvy in eitiiui ship, these berries, and the use of spruce beer, which [the crews] had to drink every other day, effectually eradicated them. We also got plenty of fish, at first mostly salmon, both fresh and dried, which the natives brought us. Some of the fresh salmon was in high perfection ; but there was one sort, which we called hook-nosed, from the figure of its howl, that waa but indifferent. We drew the seine several times at the head of the bay, and caught a good many salmon-trout, I (V.T.1778.J INTKl.'COURSK WITH anil ouce a halibut tluit \v»'iglmil *254 pouuiLs, The lishery failiii;,', we had recourse tohooksand lines. A boat was sent out every looming, and seldom returned without eight or ten halibut, whicli was more than sutlicicnt to serve all oiu* jK'onle. Tlie halibut were ex- cellent, and there were lew who did not prefer them to salmon. Thus we uot only iiru*'.ured a supply of fish for present consumption, but had some to carry with us to sea. This enabled ns to make a considerable saving of our provisions, which was an object of no small impoilance. On the 8th I received by the hands of an Ounalashka man, named Derra- moushk, a very singular present, con- sidering the place. It was a rye loaf, or rather a pie made in the form of e loaf, for it enclosed some salmon highly seasoned with pepper. This man had the like present for Captain Gierke, and a note for each of us written in a character which none of ns could read, it was natural to sup- g)se that this present was from some us.sians now in our neighbourhood ; and therefore we sent by the same hand, to these our unknown friends, a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter, which we thought would be as accept- able as anything we had beside ; and we soon knew that in this we had not been mistaken. I also sent, along with Derramoushk, Corpoi'al Lediard of the marines, an intelligent man, in onler to gain some further informa- tion, with orders that if he met with any Russians he should endeavour to make them understand that we were English, the friends and allies of their nation. On the 10th, Lediard returned with three Russian seamen or furriers, who with some others resided at Egcoch- shac, where they had a dwelling* house, some store-houses, and a sloop of about thirty tons burthen. One of these men was either master or mate of this vessel ; another of them wrote a very good hand and under- stood figures ; and they were all three well-behaved, intelligent men, and very ready to give me all the informa- don I oould deiira. But te want N ATI V K.S OF OONALASHKA. LI/ of an intcrprt-ter we had some diffi- culty to uudorstand each other. They appeared to have a thorough know* Icd^e of the attempts that had been made by their countrymen to navigate the Frozen Ocean, and of the dis* coveries which had been nia*le from Kamtschatka by Behring, TscherikofT, and SpanbtTg. But they seemed to know no more of Lieutenant Syndo, or Synd, than his name. Nor had they the least idea what ]iart of the world Mr Stahlin's man referred to when it was laid before them. When I t)ointed out Kamtschatka and some other known places upon that map, they asked whether I had seen the islands there laid down ; and on my answering in the negative, one of them put his finger Ufion a part of this map where a number of islands was repre- sented, and said that he had i-ruised there for land but never could find any. I then laid Wforc them my own chart, and found that they were Strang* rs to every part of the Ameri- can coast except what lies opjMjyite this island. One of these men iaid that he had been with Bnhring in iiia American voyage, but he must then have bfcu very young, for he had not now, at the distance cf thirty-seven years, the aj>[n.-ardnce of being aged. Never was there greater respect jiaid to the memory' ot any distinguished person than by these men to that of Behring. The trade in which they are engage*! is very beneficial ; and its being undertaken and extended to the eastward of Kamtschatka was the immediate consequence of the second voyage of that able navigator, whose misfortunes proved to be the source of much private advantage to indi* viduals and of public utility to tha Russian nation. And yet, if his dis- tresses had not aecidentally carried him to die in the island which bears his name, and whence the miserable remnant of his ship's crew brought back sufficient specimens of its vain* able furs, ]>robabiy the Russians nevor woidd have undertaken any future voyages which could lead them to make discoveries in the irit uf i)riviite traders, encouraged, however, by the superintending care of the Court of Petersburg. The three Russians liaving rtiniained with mo all night, visited Captain Gierke next morning, and then left us, very well satisfied with the recej)tion they had mot with, promising to return in a few days and to bring with them a chart of the islands lying between Oon:ila.s]ika and Kmntschatka. On the 15th, in the evening, while Mr Weliber and I were at a village at a small distance from Samganoodha, a Russian lauded there who, I found, was the principal ))erson amongst his countrymen in this and the neigh- bouring islands. His name was Era- sim Gregorioff Sin IsmylofF. He arrived in a canoe carrying three per- sons, attended by twenty or thirty other canoes, each conducted by one man. I took notice tlmt the first thing thoy did after landing was to make a small tent for IsmylnfF of materials which they brought with them, and then they made others for themselves of theircanoesand paddles, which they covered with grass, so that the people of the village were at no trouble to find them lodging. Is- myloff, having invited us into his tent, set before us some dried salmon and berries, which, i was satisfied, was the best cheer he had. He appeared to he a sensible, intelligent man ; and I felt no small mortification in not being able to converse with him unless by signs, assisted by figures and other characters, which, however, were a very gieat help. I desired to see him on V)oard the next day, and accordingly he came, with all his at- tendants. Indeed he had moved into our neighbourhood for the express purpose of waiting upon us. I was in ho])es to have had by him the chart whicn his three countiymen had pro- mised, but I was disappointed. How- ever, he assured me I should have it, and ho kept his word. I found that hfi VM ifx^ well acquainted ^ith the geugraj'hy of these parts, and with all the discoveries that had been made in them by the Hu;-'' \n8. Ou seeing the modern maps, ho at once pointed out their enors. He told me he had accompanied I,ieutenant Syndo, or Synd, a.s he called him, in Ilia expedition to the north ; and, according to his account, they did not proceed ♦'urther than the Tschukotskoi Nos, or rather than the Bay of St Laurence, for he pointed on our chart to the very place where I landed, From thence, he said, they went to an island in Latitude 03", upon which they did not land, nor couhl he tell mo its name ; but I sliould guess it to be the same to wliich I gave the name of Gierke's Island. To what place Synd went after that, or in what manner he spent the two years during which, as Ismy- loir said, his researches lasted, he either could not, or would not, inform us. Perhaps he did not comprehend our intiuiries about this; and yet in almost every other thing we could make him understand us. Thiscreated a suspicion that he had not really been in that ex7)edition« notwithstand ing Ivis assertion. Both Ismylotf and the others af- firmed that they knew nothing of the continent of America to the north- ward, and that neither Lieutenant Synd nor any other Russian had ever seen it of late. They call it by the same name which Mr Staehlin give* to his great island, that is, Alashka. Stachtan Nitada, as it is called in the modern maps, is a name quite un- known to these people, natives of tlw islands as well as Russians: but both of them know it by the name of America. From what we could gather from IsmyloiT and his countrymen, th« Russians have made several at- tempts to get a footing upon that part of this continent that lies contiguous to Ok nalashka and the adjoinine islands, but have always been repulsed by the natives, whom thoy describe as a very treacherous people. The/ mentioned two or three captains, or chief men, who had been murdered by them ; and some of the Russians ^ I 7 VI. CHARTS OF RUSSIAN DfSrOVKRlF.S. t 'I Oct. 1778.: showed U8 wounds which they said they had received there. Some other information which we got i'roiu Isiuy- loll" is worth recording, wliethor true or I'alse. He told us tliat ia tiie year 1773 an exjieilition had beta made into the Frozen St;a in sleil^ts over the ice to three large islaiius that lie oi»|K).site the inoutli of the Iliver Ivoli- ma. We were in vSume tlouht whether he ilid nut mt.-aii the same expciiilioii of wiiicli Muller gives an aii\eriising it said had been written atOomanak. It was, how- ever, from him that we got the name of Kodiak,' the largest of Schumagin's Islands ; for it had no name upon the chart produced by him. The names of all the other < islands were taken from it, and we wrote them down as pronounced by him. He said they were all such as the natives tliein- selves called tlieir islands by ; but, if so, some of the names seem to have been strang(?ly altered. It is worth observing, that no names were put to the islands which Ismylotl'told us were to be struck out of the chart ; and I considered this as some confirmation that they were not in existence. I have already observed that the Ameri- can continent is here called by the Russians, as well as by the islanders, Alashka ; which name, though it pro- perly belong only to the country ad- joining to Ooneemak, is used by them when speaking of the American con- tinent in general, which they know prfectly well to be a great laud. This IS all the information I got from these people relating to the gnography of * The Halibut Isles, and the Island of Ooneemak, forming — the latter especially— a westward continuation of the peninsula of Alashka ; from which it is divided by a narrow and uhallow channel, impracticable for shi|>s. ' A Russian ship had been at Eodi- ack, in 1776 ; it lies south of the middle of the Alashkan peninsula, Nome distance westward from the witrance to Cook's inlet COOK'S VUVAOES. [Vov. IlI.B.IV.Cn.Vl. I this part of the world ; and 1 have reason to believe that this was all the information they were able to give. For they assured me over and over again that they knew of no other islands besides those which were laid down upon this chart ;' and that no Rus.sian had ever seen any part of the continent of America to the north- ward, except that which lies opposite the country of the TschutskLa. Mr Isinylotf remained with us till the 21st in tlie evening, when he took his final leave. 'J'o his care I entrusted a letter to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, in which was en- closed a chart of all the northern coa.sts I had visited. He said there would be an o]iportunity of sending if to Kamtschatka or Okotsk the en- suing spring ; and that it would be at St i'etersburg the following winter. He gave me a letter to Major Behm, Governor of Kamtschatka, who resides at Bolscheretsk ; and anotlier to the commandingofficeratPetropaulowska. Mr Ismyloli seemed to have abilities that might entitle him to t higher station in life than that in which we found him. He was tolerably well versed in astronomy and in the most useful branches of the mathematics. I made him a present of a Hadley's octant ; and though probably it was the first he had ever seen, he made himself acquainted in a very short time with most of the uses to which that instrument can be applied. In the morning of the 22d we made an attempt to ^et to sea, with the wind at SE., which miscarried. The following afternoon we were visited by one Jacob Ivanovitch Soposuicoff, a Russian who commanded a boat or small vessel at Oomanak. This man had a great share of modesty, and would drink no strong liquor, of which the rest of his countrymen whom we had met with here were immoderately fond. He seemed to know more " They were Behring's Island, Cop- per Island, and the Aleutian chain, as far as the channel between Oonee> mak and the peninsula of Aliwihkii on the American mainland* 1 Oat. 1778.] THE RUSSIAN SETTLEMENTS. Accurately what supplies could be got at the harbour of Peiropaulowska, and the price of the different articles, than Mr Ismyloff. But, by all ac- counts, everything we should want at that place was very scarce and bore a high price. Flour, for instance, was from three to five roubles the j)Ood ;^ and deer from three to five roubles each. This man told us that he was to be at Petropaulowskain May next ; and, as I understood, was to have the charge of my letter. He seemed to be exceedingly desirous of having some token from me to curry to Major Behm; and to gratify him I sent a small spy- ing -glass. After we became acquainted with the.se Russians, some of our gentlemen at different times visited their settle- ment on the island ; where they always met with a hearty welcome. This settlement consisted of a dwelling- house and two store-houses. And besides the Russians tliere was a num- ber of the Kamtschadales and of the natives, as servants or slaves to the former. Some others of the natives, who seemed indei»endent of the Rus- sians, lived at the same place. Such of them as belonged to the Russians were all males ; and they are taken, or perhaps purchased, from their par- ents when young. There were at this time about twenty of these, who could be looked upon in no other light than as children. They all live in the same house, the Russians at the upper end, the Kamtschadales in the middle, and the natives at the lower end ; where is fixed a large boiler for preparing their food, which consists chiefly of what the sea produces, with the addi- tion of wild roots and berries. There is little difference between the first and last table besides what is produced by cookery, in which the Russians have the art tc make indifferent things palatable. I have eaten whale's flesh of their dressing which I thought very good ; and they made a kind of pan- pudding of salmon roe, beaten up fine and fried, that is no bad succudaneimi for bread. They may, now and then, * Thirty -^^x po^ndit. 301 taste real bread, or hare a dish in which flour is an ingrr Uent ; but thin can only be an occasional luxury. Lf we except the juioe of berries, which they sip at their meals, they have mt other lujuor besides pure water ; ami it seems to be very happy for them that they have nothing stronger. As the island supplies them with food, so it does in a great measure with cloth* ing. This consists chiefly of skins, and is perhajKs the best they could have. The upper garment is made like our waggoner's frock, and reaches as low as the knee. Besides this they wear a waistcoat or two, a pair of breeches, a fur cap, and a pair of boots, the soles and upper Ic.itljers of which are of Russian leather, but the legs are made of some kiml of strong gut. Their two chiefs, Ismyloff and Ivano« vitch, wore each a calico frock ; and they, as well as some others, had skirts, which were of silk-. These, perhaps, were the only part of their dress not made amongst ihemselves. There are Russians settled upon all the principal islands between Oon- ala.shkaand Kamtschatka, for the sole purpose of collecting furs. Their great object is the sea-lieaver or otter. I never heard them inquire after any other animal ; though those whcse skins are of inferior value are also made part of tlieir cargoes. I never thought to ask how long they have had a settlement u])on Oonalashka and the neighbouring isles ; but, to judge from the great subjection the natives are under, this cannot be of a very late date.' All these furriers are relieved from others. Those we here from Okotsk to return in 1781 ; at the island will least. It is now time to give some account of the native inhabitants. To all appeaj^ance they are the most peace- able, inoffensive people 1 ever met with, and as to honesty they might serve as a pattern to the most civilised ' The Russians began to fireaaei}) OopaliMihka ip 1761^ time to time by met with arrived in 1776, and are so that their stay be four years at 1^ 1 ' .(> a ?('2 COOK'S VOYAGES. (T^^. III. R IV. Ch. VL nation opon earth. But, from what 1 gaw of their neighbours, with whom lh(! KussianH have no cormoctinn, 1 douht whetlior tliia was their original Uisjio.sitioii, uiid rather think that it has Ixcii tho coiisoqiiciico of their itresojit state of .sunj^ction. Indeed, if some of our gonthunen did not mis- understand tho Hussians, they had Iwon obliged to uiako 8on\o severe examples before they oonld bring the islanders into any order. If there were severities intlicted at first, the best apology for them is that they have produced the ha]tj»iest conse- quences ; and at present the •'reati.'st liarnio;iy subsists between the two nations. Tiie natives have their own chiefs in each island, and seem to enjoy liberty and ])roperly unmolest- ed. But whctlier or no they are tributaries to the llussians, we could never find out. There was some reason to think that they are. These p(;ople are rather low of sta- ture, but plnmp and well shaped, with rather short necks, swartliy cliubl)y faces, black eyes, small beards, and long, straight, black hair ; wLich the men wear loose behind and cut before, but the woun ii tie up in a bunch. Their dress has been occa- sionally mentioned. Koth sexes wear the same in fashion ; the only differ- ence is in the materials. The women's frock is made of sealskin, and that of the men of the skins of birds ; bc*^h reaching below the knee. This is the whole dress of the women. But over the frock the men wear anotlier, made of gut, which resists water, and has a hood to it which draws over the head. Some of them wear boots ; and all of them have a kind of oval snouted cap, made of wood, with a rim to admit the head. The caps are dyed with green and other colours ; and round the upper part of the rim are stuck the long bristles of some sea-animal on which are strung glass beads, and on the front is a small image or two made of bone. They make use of no ])aint ; but the women puncture their faces slightly, and both men and women bore the under lip, to which tiiev fix nieces of bone. But it is as uncommon at Oonalashka to see a n isn with this ornament, as to see a womau witlio'.it it. Sonte &x beads to the ui)j)er lij\ under the nostrils ; and all of them hang oruumcutb in thuii ears. Their food consists of fish, sea- animals, birds, roots, and berries, and even of sea-weed. They dry large quan- tities of fish in summer, which they lay up in small huta for winter use, and probably they preserve roots and berries for the same time of scarcity. They eat almost ever}'thing raw. Boiling and broiling were the only method^a of cookery that I saw them make use of; aiiil ll:-' fust was probably leuruetl from the Uussians. Some have got little brass kettles ; and those who have not, make one of a flat stone, with sides of clay, not unlike a stand- ing pie. I was once present when the chief of Oonalashka made his dinner ofi'the raw head of a large halibut, just caiight. Before any Wiis given to the chief, two of his servants ate the gills, without any other dressing besides S(iuec7,ing out the slime. This done, one of tht!m cut off the head of tho fish, took it to the sea, and wasi'ied it, then came with it, and sat down by the chief ; fii-st pulling up some grass, ui)on a part of which the head was laid, and the rest was strewed before the chief. He then cut large pieces off the cheeks, and laid these within reach of the gieat man, who swallowed them with as much satis- faction as we should do raw oysters. When he had done, the remains of the head were cut in pieces and given to tho attendants, who tore on the meat with their teeth, and gnawed the bones like so many dogs. As these people use no paint, they are not so dirty in their persons aa the savages who thus besmear them- selves ; but they are full as lousy and filthy in their houses. Their method of building is as follows : They dig in the ground an oblong square pit, the length of which sel- dom exceeils fifty feet and the breadth twenty, but in general the dimensions are smaller. Over this excavation they fonn the Piof, of wood which Oct. 1778.} HOMR LIFE OF the sea tlirows ashore. This roof ia covered first M'itli prass, and then witli earth, no that the uutwanl ap- jieariiuc'e is like a tlunyhilL In the r.»i(hlle of V.n' rwof, towards each end, is left a sniiaiv u|iei)in.,' hy which the light is adiiitted ; one of these open- injx>i l>i-iii,Lr Itu- this purjinto only, and the tiiluT b<'iu'5 also u.scl to go in ami Diu by, uitTi the help of a ladd<;r, or ratlit r a pnst with steps cut in it. In some liou.ied there is another en- trance hulow, hilt this is noi ronunou. Round the sides and enils of the huis the faniilios (for several are loili^'ed together) have their seiiantte apirt- ments, whore tliey sleep and sit at work, not upon benches, but in a kind of a concave trench, which is dug all round the inside of the house, and covered with nnits, so that this part is kept tolerably decent. But the middle of the house, which is common to all the families, is far otherwise. Foralthoui^h it be cover- ed with dry grass, it is a receptacle for dirt of every kind, and the place for the urine trough, the steiicli of which is not mended by raw hides or leather being almost continually Bteejied in it Behind and over the trench are placed the few elTects tbey are possessed of, such as their clothing, mats, and skins. Their household fui nitiire consists of howls, spoons, buckets; piL,'.L;iiis, or cans, matted baskets, and perhaps a Russian kettle or pot. All these utensils aie very neatly made and well-formed ; and yet we saw no other tools among them but the knife and the hatchet, that is, a small Hat piece of iron made like an adze by fitting it into a crook- ed wooden handle. These were the only instruments we met with there made of iron. For although the Kussians live amongst them, we found much less of this metal in their possession than we had mot with in the possession of other tribos on the American continent who had never seen, nor perhaps had any in- tercourse with, the Russians. Pro- bably a few Iteads, a little tobacco and snuff, purchase jdl they have to vpare There are few, if any of them, THE NATIVES. .^on tlint do not both smoke pnl chew tiihucco, and tike snuff; a luxury that bids fair to keep them always poor. They did not utjom to wisli for more iron, or to want any other id strunieiits e.vcept sewing needles, tiicir own bi'iiig innde of hone, With these they not only sew their canoiiH and make their clothes, but also vi!ry curious emliroidoiy. Instead of thread they use the fibres of simws, which they split to the thiekuess which each sor^ of work requires. All sewing is ])crformed by the women. They are the tailora, shoe- makers, and boat-builders or boat- covereis, for the men most ]>robably construct the frame of wood over which the skins are sewed. They make mats and baskets of grass that are both beautiful and strong. In- d<'ed, there is a neatness and perfec- tion in most of their work that shows they neither want ingenuity nor [Hjr- severance. I saw not a fireplace in any one ot their houses. They are lighted a& well as heated by lamps, which are simple, and yet answer the purpose very weU. They are made of a flat sk»ne, hollowed on one side like a I plate, and about the same size, or rather larger. In the hollow ])art they put the oil, mixed with a little dry grass, which serves the purpose of a wick. Both men and women frequently warm their bodies over one of these lamps, by placing it hetween their legs, under their gar- ments, and sitting thus over it for a few minutes. They produce fire both by collision and by attrition ; the former by strikijig two stones one against another, on one of which a good deal of brimstone is first rubbed. The latter method is with two pieces of wood, one of which is a stick of about eigliteen inches in length, and the other a Hat piece. The pointed end of the stick they press upon the other, whirling it nimbly round as a drill, thus producing fire in a few minutes. Tiiis method is common in many parts of tlie world. It is pnw- tised by the Kamtschadales, by tbes« 1^ ■•I T m ' I 501 COOK'S yOVAGES. peoitlA, by the Oreenlandera, hy tlie BrazilianH, by the Otftheitcans, by the New Hollniitlers, and probably by many otlior nations. Yet some learned and ingenious men hiivo founded an arfpimcnt on this custom to prove that this and that nation are of the same extraction. l»ut accidental agreements, in a few par- ticular instances, will not authorise such a conclusion ; nor will h dis- agreement either in nnnii<;rs or cus- toms between two dilfcrcnt nations of course prove that they are of different extraction. I could support this opinion by many instnnccs be- sides the one just mentioned. No such thing as an offensive or even defensive weapon was seen amongst the natives of Oonnlashka. We cannot suppose that the Kussi.iiis found them in such a defenceless state; it is more probable that, for their own security, they have dis- armed them. Political reasons, too, may have induced the Russians not to allow these islanders to have any large canoes ; for it is dillicult to believe they had nonesuch originally, as wo found them amongst all their neighbours. However, we saw none here but one , r two belonging to the Russians. The canoes made use of by the natives are the smallest we had anywhere seen upon the American coast, though built after the same manner, with some little difference in the constmction. The stern of these terminates a little abruptly ; the head is forked, the upper point of the fork projecting without the under one, which is even with the surface of the water. Why they sliould thus con- struct them is dillicult to conceive, for the fork is apt to catch hold of everything that comes in the way, to prevent which they fix a i)iece of small stick from point to point. In other res])ects their canoes are built after the manner of those used by the Greenlauders and Esquimaux, the framing being of slender laths, and the covering of seal-skins. They are about twelve feet long, a foot and a half broad in the midK>ut which is sewed gut skin, that can be drawn toi^othor or opene*! like a purse, with leathern thongs fitted to the outer edge. The man seats himself in this Elace, draws the skin tight round is body over his gtit frock, and brings the ends of the thongs or nurse-string over the shoulder to keep it in its place. The sleeves of his frock are tied round his wrists ; and it being close round his neck, and the hood drawn over his head, wliere it is confined by his cap, water can scarcely penetrate either to his body or into the canoe. If any should, however, insinuate itself, the boat- man carries a piece ol" sytonge with which he dries it up. Ilo uses the double-blade«l paddle, which is held with lx)th hands in the middle, striking the water with a quick re- gular motion, first on one side and then on the other. By this means the canoe is imjicUed at a great rate, and in a direction as straight as 3 line can be drawn. In sailing from Egoochshac to Samganoodha, two or three canoes kept way with the 8hi[», though she was going at the rate ol seven miles an hour. Their fishing and hunting implements lie ready upon their canoes, under straps fixed for the purpose. They are all made, in great perfection, of wood and bone, and differ very little from those used by the Greenlanders, as they are described by Crantz. The only dif- ference is in the point of the missile dart, which in some we saw here is not above an inch long ; whereas Crantz savs, that those of the Green- landers are a loot and a half in length. These people are very expert in strik- ing fish, both in the sea and in rivers. They also make use of hooks and lines, nets and wears. The hooks are com})Osed of bone, and the lines of sinews. The fishes which are common to other northern seas are found ber«. : ( )0T. 1778. ] . iN I MA T.y S F, E N such as whales, granipuaos. por- poises, sword-fish, lialihut, cocurvv> grass, creHSHH, and sonie fitliers. All llies« we found very paln^alde dicsn»'d I'ithi^r in 8oU|»h or in '<:»1mi|h. On tl.'o low ground and in tliu valleys is plenty of grass, whi(;li grows very thi(!k and to a great lent,'i;h. I am of opinion that cattle might subsist at Oonalaahka all the yt^ar round without being houspd. And the soil in many places seemed ca|>alile of producing grain, roots, anil voge- tables. But at present the Kussian traders and the natives seem satisfied with what Nature brings forth. Native sulphur was men amongst the inhabitants of the island, but I had no <)i»]>ortunity of learnitig where they got it. We found also ochre, a stone that gives a purple colour, and another that gives a very good green. It may be doubted whether this last is "own. In its natural state, it is of reyish green colour, coarse and he, y. It easily dissolves in oil; but when put into water it entirely loses its properties. It s(!omed to be scarce iu Oonalashka ; but we were told that it was in greater plenty on the Island Oone- mak. As to the stones about the shore and hills I saw nothing in them that was uncommon. The people of Oonalashka bury their dead on the summits of hills, and raise a little hillock over the grave. In a walk into the country one of the natives who attended me pointed out several of these recep- tacles of the dead. There was one of them by the side of the road leading from the harbour to the village, over which was raised a heap of stones. It was observed that every one who passed it added one to it.^ I saw in the country several stone hillocks that seemed to have been raised by art. Many of them were apparently of grep*- antiquity. What their notions are of the Deity and of a ^ It is almost superfluous to recall here the ancient Celtic practice, and modem Scottish proverb of "addini? a stone to the cairn " of any one to whose memory honour was intendod. ' w I ( Oct. 1778.] ftature atnte, I know not. Ji aia •qually uimi' .nullierly, stood away to tlie Wfstwaid. .Nly intiMition was now to pioceid to Sand- wich Islands, then; to spend A few of the winter mnntlis, in ease we slmul I mt';!t witti the iiecfssary refresh men t.s, .md then to direct our rourse to Kamts- I'h.itka, so as to endeavour to be there by the middle of .Mav the ensuiny summer. In conseijui-nee of this ro- sohition, I gave Captain ( lerke orders attacks aro very careful to conceal. , how to proceed in <'aao of sep.iratioa ; They do not s^'eni to be long-lived. aj)pointing Sandwich Islands for the I nowUere saw a person, man or woman, whom I could suppose to bo sixty years of ago ; and but very few who appearecl to bo above tifty. Probably their hard way of living may be tho means of shortening their days. 1 have frequently had occasion to mention, from tho time of our arrival in Prince William's Sound, how re- markably the natives on this nt^ith- wtst side of America resemble the Greenlanders and Hsquiniaux, in various particulars of p' i-son, dress, weapons, cunoes, and the like. How- ever, I was much less struck with this than with the alHnity which we found subsisting between the dialects of the Greenlanders and Ksquimaux and those of Norton Sound r.ud Ooii- alashka. This appears from a table of corresponding words which I put together. Enough is certain to war- rant this judgment, that there is great reason to believe that all these nations are of the same extraction ; and if so, there can be little doubt of there being a northern ccunmuni- cation of some sort by sea between this west side of America and the east side through Baton's Bay, »vhich communication, however, may be etfectually shut up against ships by ice and other impediments. Such lirst place of rendezvous, and tlui har- bour of I'etropaulow.ska .in KaniLs. ch.it ka for the second. Soon after w«i were out of the harbour, the wind veered to tho SK. and KSE., which by the evening carried us as far as the western part of Oon.ilashk.a, where we got the wind at 8. With this we stretched to the westward till 7 o'clock tho next morning, when we wore and stood to the iii. The wind by this time had increased in such a manner as to reduce us to our three cours&s. It blew in very heavy squalls, attend- ed with rain, hail, and snow. At 9 o'clock in the morning of the 28th, the Island of Oonalashka bore SE., four leagues distant. We then wore and stood to the westward. The strength of the gale was now over, and towards evening the little wind that blew iiise.iisibly veered round to the E., where it continued but a shott time before it got to NK. and in- creased to a very hard gale with rain. 1 steered Mrst to the southward ; and as the wind inclined to the N. and NW., I steered more westerly. On * Tho justice of Ca[)tain Cook's inference has been amply demon- strated since his time by the success of those expeditions, the history of which is familiar to alL i •! J li-i. i-\ «0H COOK'S VOYAGES the 29th, at half -past six in the mcm- ing, we saw land extending from E. by S. to S. by W. , supposed to be the Island Amoghto. At eight, finding luai w« couiu noc weatner tne island, as the wind had now veered to the westward, I gave over ] dying, and bore away for Oonalashka, with a view of going to tlie northward and east- ward of that island, not daring to attempt a passage to the S£. of it in so hard a gale of wind. At the time we bore away, the land extended from E. by S. half S. to SSW., four leagues distant. The Longitude by the time- keeper was 191° 17' and the Latitude 63° 38'. At 11 o'clock, as we w^ere steering to the NE., we discovered an elevated rock, like a tower, bearing NNE. half E., four leagues distant. It lies in the Latitudeof 53° 57' and in the Longitude of 191° 2'. We must have passed very near it in the night. We could judge c*" its steepness from this circumstance, that the sea, which no\^ ran very high, broke nowhere but against it. At three in the afternoon, after getting a sight of Oonalashka, we shortened sail and hauled the wind, not having time to get through the passage before night. At daybreak the next morning we bore away under courses and close-reefed topsails, hav- ing a very hard gale at WNW., with heavy squalls attended with snow. At noon we were in the middle of the strait between Oonalashka and Con- ella, the harbour of Samganoodha bearing SSE. , one league distant. At three in the afternoon, being through the strait and clear of the isles, Cape Providence bearing WSW., two or three leagues distant, we steered to the southward under double-reefed to^isails and courses, with the wind at WNW., a strong gale and fair weather. On Mouday the 2d of November, the wind veered to the southward, and before night blew a violent storm, which obliged us to bring to. The Discovery tired several guns, which we answered, but without knowing on what occasion they were fired. At 8 o'clock we lost sight of her and did iwfc 8M her again till eight the next [VoY. m. B. rv. cu. vu. morning. At ten she joined us ; and as the height of the gale was now over, and the wind had veered back to WNW. . we madesailaud resumed onr course to tne soutnward. Th« 6th in the evening, being in the Lati< tude of -12° 12' and in the Longitude of 20 r 26', the variation was 17° 15' E. The next morning, our Latitude being 41° 20' and our Longitude 202°, a shag or cormorant ti> w several times round the ship. As these birds are seldom if ever known to fly far out of sight of land, I judged that some was not far distant However, we could see none. In the afternoon, there being but little wind. Captain Clerke came on board and informed me of a melancholy accident that liJijipent'd on board his ship the second night after we left Samganoodha. The main-tack gave way, killed one man, and wound xi the boatswain and two or three more. In addition to this misfortune, I now learned that on the evening of the 3d his sails and rigging received considerable damage; and that the guns which he fired were the signal to bring to. On the 8th the wind was at N., a gentle breeze, with clear weather. On the 9th, in the Latitude of 394°, we had eight hours' calm. This was succeeded by the wind from the S. attended with fair weather. Availing ourselves of this, as many of onr people as could handle a needle were set to work to repair the sails ; and the carpenters were employed to put the boats in order. On the 12th at noon, being then in the Latitude of 38° 14' and in the Longitude of 206° 17', the wind returned back to the northward; and on the 15th, in the Latitude of 33" 30', ic veered to the E. At thij time we saw a tropic-bird and a dol- phin ; the first that we had observed during the passage. On the 17th the wind veered to the southward, where it continued till the afternoon of the 19th, when a squall of wind and rain brought it at once round by the W. to the N. This was in the Latitude of 32° 26', and in the Longitude uf 207° 30'. The wind presently in- creased to a veiy strong gale, attended ; Nov. 1778.1 LAND IN SIGHT. 309 H 1- with rain, so as to bring us under double-reefed top-sails. In lowering down the main-topsail to reef it, the wind tore it quite out ot the foot- rope ; and it was split in several other parts. This sail had only been brought to the yard the day before, after having had a repair. The next morning we got auother topsail to the yard. This gale proved to be the forerunner of the trade-wind, which in Latitude 25" veered to the E. and ESE. I continued to steer to the southward till daylight in the morn- ing of the 25th, at which time we were iu the Latitude of 20'' 23 . I now spread the ships* and steered to the west. In the evening we joined, and at midnight brought to. At daybreak next morning land was seen extending from SSE. to W. We made sail and stood for it. At eight it extended from SE. half S. to W., the nearest part two leagues distant It was sup- posed that we saw the extent of the land to the £., but not to the W. We were now satisfied that the group of the Sandwich Islands had been only imperfectly discovered ; as those of them which we had visited in our progress northward all lie to ;.ae lee- ward of our present station. In the country was an vlevated saddle hill, whose summit :*ppeared above the clouds. From thit niU the land fell in a gentle - on a trial made but a few days before found that a stiong decoction of it produced a very palatable beer, 1 ordered some more to l)e lirewed for our general use. But when the ciisk was now broacbed not one of my crew would eve- so much as taste it. As I had no motive in preparing this beverage but to save our spirit for a colder climate, I gave myself no trouble, either by exerting authority or by having recourse to persuasion, to prevail upon them to drink it, knowing that there was no danger of the scurvy so long as we conld get a plentiful supply of other f ■ h. Dm. 1778.] ▼agetables. But that I might not be disappointed in my views, 1 gave orders that no grog should be served in either ship. I myself and the officers continued to make use of this sugar-cane beer whenever we coiild get nxa trials for brewing it. A few Lops, of which we had some on board, inii>roved it much. It has the taste of new malt beer, and I believe no one will doubt of its being very whole- some. And yet my inconsiderate crew alleged that it was injurious to their Le;iltli. They had no better rea.son to support a resolution which they took on our first arrival in King George's [Nootka] Sound, not to drink the spruce-beer made there. But whether i SE. by S, niost part of the 16th from a consideration that it was not the first time of their being required to use that liquor, or from some other reason, they did not attempt to carry their purpose into actual execution ; and I had never heard of it till now, when they renewed their ignorant o]i- position to niy best endeavours to serve them. Every innovation whatever on board a ship, though ever so much to the advantage of seamen, is sure to meet with their highest disapproba- tion. Both portable soup and sour krout ' were at first condemned as stuff unfit for human beings. EFFORTS TO PRESEUVE HEALTH OF CREWS. 311 de^itroyod more of our s Jlors in their peaceful voyages thau have fallen by the enemy in military expeditions. I kept at some distance from th« coast till the 13ih, when I stood in again siix leairnes farther to windward tiian we had as y- 1 r»ra>'hed ; and after having some trade with the natives who visited us, returned to sea. I should have got near the shore again on the loth for a supply of fruit or roots, but the wind hapj>ening to b« atSE. byS. and S-SK., I tiiought this a good time to stret-ih to the eastward, in ord'jr to get round, or at leji.st to get a sight of the s^iuth-east ei>d of the i.sland. The wind contintied at It was variable between S. and E. on tlie 17th, and ou the 18th it was con- tinually veering from one quarter to another, blowin:^ sometimes in hanl stpialls, and at i>tlier times calm, with thunder, lightning, and rain. In the iifteniooii we had the wfnd westerly lor a tew lii.>ur8, but in the evening it shifted to E. by S., and we stood to the southward close-hauled, under an easy sail, a.s th-' Discovery was at some distance asti-rn. At this time the south-east point of the island bore SW. by S., about five leagues dis- tant ; and 1 made no doulit that I should be able to weather it. But at 1 o'clock next morning it fell calm, and we were '.'ft to the mercy of a north-easterly swell which impelled us fast toward the land ; so that long before daybreak we saw lights u[)on the .shore, which was not more than a league distant. The night was dark, with tliunder, licrhtning. and rain. At 3 o'clock the c^diij was succeeded by a breeze from E. blowing in squalls, with rain. "We stood to the NE., thinking it the l»ost tack to clear the coa.st ; but it it hnd Uen daylight, we should have ciiosen the other. At davltreak the coii.sl was .seen extend* ing from X. by W. to SW. by W,, a dreiidful su: f breakins: ujton the shore, which was not more th.an half-a-league distant. It was fnMent that we had been in the niu^t imndneut danger. Nor were we yet in safety, the wind veering mr>re easterly, so that for some Few commanders have introduced into their ships more novelties, as useful varieties of food and tlrink, tli^ui I have done. Irideed few commanders have had tlie same opportunities of trying such experiments, or been driven to the same necessity of trying them. It has, however, been in a great measure owing to various little deviations from establislied practice that 1 have been able to ])reserve my ]>uo])le, generally speaking, from that dreadful dis- temper the scurvy, which has perhajts * Cook on his second voyage took a quantity of this with him. He d"- scribes it as cabbage cut small, to v.hieji is put a little salt, junijier-berries, and nidseed ; it is tlien fermented, and close packed in casks, where it will keep a long time, retaining its virtues as a wholesome vegetable food And a great anti-scor1iUti«% I I ;:■ 312 III \i , 111 mil 1 : ^ 1 COOK'S VOYAGES. time w« did but just keep our distance from the coast. What made our situ- ation more alarmiug was the leach- rope of the main-topsail giving way, which was the occasion of the sail's being rent in two ; and the two top- gallaut-sails gave way in the same manner, though not half worn out. By taking a ravourable opportunity, we soon got others to the yards, and then we left the land astern. The Discovery, by being at some distance to the north, was never near the land, nor did we see her till 8 o'clock. As soon as daylight appeared tun natives ashore displayed a white flag, which we conceived to be a signal of peace and friendship. Some of them ventured out aftpr us, but the wind freshening, and it not being safe to v/ait, they were soon left astern. In the afternoon, after making another attempt to weather the eastern ex- treme, which failed, I gave it up and ran down to the Discoveiy. Indeed it was of no consequence to get round the island, for we had seen its extent to the south>east, which was the thing I aimed at ; and according to the in- formation which we had got from the natives, there is no other island to the windward of this. However, as we were so near the south end of it, and as the least shift of wind in our favour would serve to carry us round, I did not wholly give up the idea of weather- ing it, and therefore continued to ply. On the 20th at noon this south-east point bore S. three leagues distant, the snowy hills WNW., and we were about four miles from the nearest shore. In the afternoon some of the natives came in their canoes, bring- ing with them a few pigs and plan- tains. The latter were very acceptable, having had no vegetables for some days ; but the supply we now received was so inconsiderable, being barely sufficient for one day, that I stood in again the next morning till within three or four miles of the It&nd, where we were met by a number of canoes laden with provisions. We brought to and continued trading with the people in tliem till four in the after- «», when, having got a pn|ty good (Tot. III. B. IV. Cb. VII. supply, we made sail and stretched off to tne northward. 1 had never met with a behaviour so free from reserve and suspicion in my intercourse with any tribes of savages as we experienced in the people of this Island. It was very common for them to send up into the ship the several articles they brought off for barter ; afterwards they would come in themselves and make their bargains on the t^uarter-deck. The people of Otahftite, even after our repeated visits, do not care to put so much confidence in us. I infer from this that those of Owhyhee must be more faithful in their dealings with one another than the inhabitants of Otaheite are. For if little faith were observed amongst themselves they would not be so ready to trust stran- gers. It is also to bo observed, to their honour, that they had never once attempted to cheat us in ex- changes, nor to commit a theft. They understand trading as well as most people, and seemed to comprehend clearly the reason of our joying upon the coast. For though they brought off provisions in great plenty, particu- larly pigs, yet they kept up their price ; and rather than dispose of them for less than they thought they were worth, would take them ashore again. On the 22d, at eight in the morn- ing, we tacked to the southward, with a fresh breeze at £. by N. At noon the Latitude was 20° 28' 30", and the snowy peak bore SW. half S. We had a good view of it the preceding day, and the quantity of snow seemed to have increased and to extend lower down the hill. I stood to the SE. till midnight, then tacked to the N. till four in the morning, when we re- turned to the SE. tack; and as the wind was at NE. by E., we had hopes of weathering the island. We should have srjceeded if the wind had not died away and left us to the mercy of a great swell, which carried us fast toward the laud, which was not two leagues distant. At length we got our head off, and some light pnffs of wipd, which came with showers of rain, put im out of danger. While Dec. 177S.] RESOLUTION GETS TO we lay, an it were, becalmed, several •f the islanders came off with hogs, fowls, fruit, and roota. Out of oue canoe we got a goose, which was about the si2e of a Muscovy dnck ; its i)lum- age was ti* k firey, nnd the bill and legs black. At four iu the afternoon, after pur- chasing ever}'thiug that the natives had brought off, which was full as much as we had occasiou tor, we made sail and stretched to the N., with the wiuil at EN E. At midnight we tacked and stuud to the SE. Upon a suppo- sitiuu that the Discovery would see us tack, the signal was omitted ; but she did not see us, as we afterwards found, and continued standing to the N., for at daylight next morning she was not in sight. At this time, tlie weather being hazy, we could not see far, so that it was possible the Dis- covery might be following us; and being past the north-east part of the island I was tempted to stand on till, by the wind veering to NE., we could not weather the land upon the other tack. Consequently we could not stand to the N. to join or look for the Discovery. At noon we were by ob- r-ervation in the Latitude of 19" 55' and iu the Longitude of 205' 3' ; the south-east point of the inland bore S. by E. quarter E. , six leagues distant ; the other extreme bore N. 60° W., and we were two leases from the nearest shore. At six m the evening the southernmost extreme of the island bore SW., the nearest shore seven or eight miles distant, so that we had now succeeded in getting to the wind- ward of the island, which we had aimed at with so much perseverance. The Discovery, however, was not yet to be seen ; but the wind, as we had it, being very favourable for her to follow us, I concluded that it would not be long before she joined us. I therefore kept cruising oiT this south- east point of the island, which lies iu the Latitude of 19' 34' and iu the Longitude of 205° 6', till I was satis- fied that Captain Clerke could not (oin me here. I now conjectured that le had not been able to weather the north-east part of the islandt ^d had WINDWARD OP OWHYHEE. SIS gone to leeward in order to meet me that wny. As I generally kept from five to teii leagues from the land, no canoes ex- cept one came ot) to us till the 28th, when T/a were visited bv a iic7<«n or fourteen. The people who conducted them brought, as usual, the produce of the island. I was very sorry that they had taken the trouble to come so tar. For we could not trade with them, our old stock not being as yet consumed; and we Ikad found by late exi)erience that the hogs could net be kept alive, nor the roots preserved from putrefaction many days. How- ever, I intended not to leave this part of the island before I got a supply, as it would not be easy to return to it again in case it should be found neces- sary. We began to be in want ou the 30th, and I would have -stood in near the shore but was prevented by & calm; but a breeze springing up at midnight from S. and SW., we were enabled to stand iu for the land at daybreak. At 10 o'clock in the morn- ing we were met by the islanders witb fruit and roots, but in all the canoet were only three small pigs. Our not having bought those which had been lately brougLt otfmay be supposed to be the reason of this very scanty supply. We brought to for the pur- poses of trade, but soon after oui marketing was interrupted by a very hard rain, and besides we were rather too far from the shore. Nor durst I go nearer, for 1 could not depend upon the wind's remaining where it was for a moment ; the swell also being high, and setting obliquely upon the shore, against which it broke in a frightful surf. In the evening the weather mended, the night was clear, and it was s|)eut in making short boards. Before daybreak the atmosphere was again loaded with heavy clouds, aud the New Year was ushered in with very hard rain, which continued at intervals till past 10 o'clock. The wind was southerly, a light breeze with some calms. When the rain ceased, the sky cleared and the breeze freshened. Being at this time about five miles from the land, several S14 COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.III.B.IV.Ch. VIL m V< -■!■ cano«j iiTivod with fruit and roots, and at last some hogs were brought oir. We lay to, trailing with them, till 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when, having a tolerable snpjdy, we made < with a vie..' of ytrooecding to the n^ .,h-we.st or leeside of the island, to look for i]v) Discovery. It was necessary, howovci-, the wind being at S., to stretdi first to the eastwanl, till midnight, when the wind came more favourable, and we went upon the otlusr tack. For several days past both wind and weather had been ex- ceedingly unsettled, and there fell a great deal of rain. The three follow- ing days were spent in running down the south-east side of the island. For during the nights we stood off and on, and ])art of each day was employed in lying to, in order to furnish an opportunity to the natives of ti;i(iiii!,' with us. Tliey sonu'tinies came on board while we were live leagues from the shore ; but whether from a fear of losing their goods in the sea, or from the uncertainty of the market, they never brought much with them. The principal article procured was salt, which was extremely good. On the 5th, in the morning, "we passed the south point of the island, which lies in the Latitude of 18° 54', and beyond it we found the coast to trend N. 60° W. On this point stands a pretty large v'llage, the in- habitants of which thronged olf to the ship with hogs and women. It was not possible to keep the latter from coming on board ; and no women I ever met with were less reserved. Indeed it ajipcared to me that they visited us Avith no other ^iew than to make a surrender of their persons. As I had now got a quantity of salt, I purchased no hogs but such as were fit for salting, refusing all that were under size. However we could seldom get any above fifty or sixty ]>ounds weight. It was happy for us that we ■^till had 8or egetables on board, . r we now received few such produc- tions. Indeed this part of the country, from its appearance, did not seem capable of affording them. Marks of Its having Deen laid waste by the explosion of a volcano every when l»resented themselves; and though we had as yet seen nothing like ono upon the i.sland, the dova.station that it had made in this neighbourhood was visible to the naked eye.' This jiart of the coast is sheltered from the reigning winds ; but we could find no bottom to anchor upon, a line of 160 fathoms not reaching it, within the distance of half-r-mile from tlie shore. The islanders having all left us towards the evening, we ran a few miles down the coast, and then spent the night standing off and on. Thenextmoming the natives visited us again, bringing with them the same articles of commerce as before. Being now near the shore, 1 sent Mr Hligh, the master, in a boat to sound the coast, with orders to land and to look for fresh water. Upon his return he rejiorted tliat at two cables' length from the shore he had found no soiind- ings with a line of 160 fathoms ; that when he landed he found no stream or spring, but only rain water de- posited in holes upon the rocks, and even that was brackish from the spray of the sea ; and that the surface of the country was entirely composed of slags and ashes, with a few plants here and there inters])ersed. Between ten and eleven we saw with ])leasure the Discovery coming round the south point of the island ; and at one in the afternoon she joined us. Ca])tain Gierke then coming on board, in- fonned me that he had cruised four or five days wliere we were separated, and then jdied round the east side of the island ; but that, meeting with unfiivoui-able winds, he had been c-ar- ried to some distance from the coast, lie had one of the islanders on board all this time, who had remained there from dioice, and had refused to quit the ship tliongh op])oi'tunitie8 had ott'ored. Having sjient the night standing off and on, we stood in again * Several volcanoes are .still active in the islands ; and t^vo of them, Morena Loa and Morena Kea, rise i» the very respectable altitude of somo 15.000 feet. IV.Ch.VIL every w lien and though ing like ono istatiou that ighbourhood eye. J This eltered from it we could upon, a line ngit, within ile from tlie ving all left we ran a few i then spent d on. itives visited em the same sfore. Heing it Mr HIigh, ) sound the I and to look is rotum he bles' length id no sound- thorns ; that i no stream 1 water de- rocks, and •m the spray le surface of composed of few plants id. Between ith j)leasure nd the south it one in the Ca])tain board, in- jruised four e separated, east side of eeting with id been car- 1 tlie coast, rs on board lainedthere ised to quit mities had the night 3od in again still active ) of them, Cea, rise to de of BOTMi Jan. 1779.] VAST CONCOURSE the ue\t uioriilii^, ami wiu-n we Averu about a league trom the shore many of tho native.-:; vixitcd us. At daybriMik on the 8th we found that the currents during tlie night, which we spent in pl^nng, had carried us back considerably to windward ; 80 that we Awre now ofl' the sdiilli- west point ol' tiio inland, 'iiuio wi brou^^'ht to, in order to give the ni- tives r ' opi>urtunity of tr;idiug with U3 '" standing V.'o spiut the niglit a-s usual, and on. It hapi»cii Oil aim on. it iiaj^iieii.-u tluit four men and ten women who had come on l)oard the i»reeeiliiig day still roniainetl with us. As 1 did uut like the conipai-y (»!' the lattei, I stood inshore tjwards noon, ])riiici- pally with a view to get them out of the slii[i, and some (.;aniies coming otl' I took that opportunity of sending away our guests. We had light airs from NW. and SW., and o.ilnis, till eleven iu the morning uf tli(i lOtii, when the wind freshened at \VN W., which, with a strong current setting to the SE., fio mu'jh retaided us that iu the evening between 7 and 8 o'cluck the south point of the island bure N. 104"' ^V., four leagues distant. Tiie south snowy hill now bore N. At lour in the morning of the 11th, the wind having fixed at W., I stood in for the land in order to get some refreshments. As we drew near the shore the natives began to cotm; oil'. We lay to, or stood on and o:!, trad- ing with them all the day, but gat a very scanty supply at last, ilany canoes visited us v;hose people had not a single thing to barter, which convinced us that this part of tiie island must be very jioor, and that we had already gut ail that they could spare. We s])entthe 12th ]>ly- ing oil' and on, with a Iresh gale at ^V. A mile from the shore, and to the N E. of the south ])oint of the island, havnig tried soundings, we fouml giound at fifty-five fatliums de; tli, the uottom a fiue sand. At five iu the evening wo stooil to the SW., with tlie wind at WNW., and soon after midnight we had a calm. At d f 'clock next morning, having got a OF TITK NATIVES. 31 f. small breeze at SSE., w<» fltoered to the NNW. in for the land. Soov after, a few canoes came alongside with some hogs, but without any vegetables, whieh articles we most wanted. We had xiow made some progress ; for at noovi the south point of the island bore S. 864° E., the south-west jioint N. 13° W., the nearest shore two leagues distant, Latitiide by observation 18° 56', and our Longitude by x}i« tiniekeep«T -0.i° 40 . We had got the length oi the south-west point of the island in the evening ; but the wind now veer- ing to the westward and northward, during the night we lost all that we had gained. Next morning, being still oil' the south-west point of the island, some canoes came oil", but they brought nothing tiiat we were in want of. \N'e had now neither fruit nor loots, and were under a necessity of making use of some of our sea provi- sions. At length .some canoes from the northwanl brought us a small sujtply of hogs and roots. \Ve had variable light airs, next to a calm, the following day, till five in the afternoon, when a small breeze at ENK. springing uj), we wwe at last enabled to steer along shore to the northward. The weather being fine, we had plenty of comi)any this day, anri8ed to see them jninp overbonrd without a moment's 'lesitntion, all exeept one man, who i.iitering behind and sliov\in<^ some unwillingness to obey, Kaneena took him up in his arms and tlirew him into the sea. Both these chiefs were men of strong and well-proportioned bodies, and of countenances remark- ably pleasing. • Kaneena especially was one of the finest men I ever saw. He was about six feet hif,'h, had regular and expressive features, with lively, dark eyes ; his carriage was easy, firm, and graceful. it has l)een already m.'^n tinned that during our long cruise olf this island the inhabitants had always behaved with great fairness and honesty in their dealings, and had not shown the slightest propensity to theft ; which appeared to us the more ex- traordinary, because those with whom we had hitherto held any intercourse were of the lowest rank, either ser- vants or fisherman. "We now found the ca.se exceedingly altered. The immense crowd of islanders which blocked up every part of the ships, not only afforded frequent opportunity of pilfering without risk of discovery, but our inferiority in number held forth a prospect of escaping with im- punity in case of detection. Another circumstance to which we attributed this alteration in their behaviour, was the presence and encouragement of their chiefs ; for, generaUy tracing the booty into the possession of some men of consequence, we had the strongest reason to suspect that these depredations were committed at their instigation. Soon after the Resolution had got into her station, our two friends, Pareaaand Kaneena, brought on board thitd chief named Koah, who, we COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. IH. B. V. Lh. were told, was a priest, and h:ul been in his youth a distinguished warrior, lie was a little old man, of an emaci- ated figure ; his eyes exceedingly sort) and red, and liis body covered with a white leprous .scurt, thoelfects ot"an inuiioilerate use of the " ava." Heing led into the cahiu, he ap- pioaeheil Ca[)tain ("ook with great veneration, and tliKiW over his shoul- ders a piece of red cloth which he had brought along with him. Then step- l)ing a few paces back, he made an otfering of a small pig which he held in his Land, whilst he pronounced a discourse that lasted for a consider- able time. This ceremony was fre- quently repeated during our stay at Owhyhee, and ap])eiired to us fvoic many circumstances to he a sort oi' religious adoration. Their idols wo found always arrayed with red cloth in the same manner as was done to Ca]'tain Cook ; and a small pig was their usual oU'eriiig to the " Eatooa.s," Their speivUes, or prayers, were uttered, too, with a readiness and volubility that indicated them to be according to some formulary. When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eatiug plentifully of what was set before him ; but, like the rest of the inhabitants of the islands in these seas, could scarcely be prevailed on to taste a seeond time our wine or spirits. In the evening. Captain Cook, attended by Mr l>ayiy and myself, accompanied him on shore. We lauded at the beach, and were received by four men who carried wands tipped with dog's hair, and marched before us, pronouncing with a loud voice a short sentence, in v/hich we could only distinguish th« word "Orono."^ The crowd which ^ Captain Cook generally went by thi« name amongst the natives of Owhyhee ; but we could never learn its precise meaning. Sometimes they applied it to an invisible being, who, they said, lived in the heavens. We also found that it was a title belonging to a per- sonage of gi'eat rank and power in the island, who resembles pretty much the Delai Lama of the Tartars^ Jan. 1779.] CKKCMON1E9 AT COOK'S f.ANOIxa. 319 had boon collecten WM to be so(;n, except a few lyiii«? prostrate on tho ;;roinul near the Imu of tho adjoininj? village. Before I proceed to relat« the •tain Cook. In his first trials, which were made in 1774 during his second voyage to the Pacific Ocean, the success he met with, though very imperfect, was yet suffi- cient to convince him of the error of the received opinion. As the voyage in which he was now engaged was likely to be protracted a year beyond the time for which the ships had been victualled, he was under the necessity of providing by some such means for the subsistence of the crews, or of relinquishing the fur- ther prosecution oi his discoveries. He therefore lost no opportunity of renewing his attempts, and tho OF PRIESTS. jjoj ' event answered his most sanguine ( xiiectations.' I I shall now return to our transac* I tions on Hlujre at the observatory, I wliere we had not been long settlcil I before wo discovered in our neighbour- ! hood the habitations of a society of priests, whose regular attendance at the "moral " had excited ourcuriosity. Tlieir huts stood round a pond of water, and were surrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut trees, which separ- ated them from the beach and the rest of the village, and gave the place an air of religious retirement. On my .acquainting Captain Cook with theiie circumstancca, he resolved to pay them a visit. On his arrival at the beach he was conducted to a sacred building called Harre-no-Orono or the house of Orono, and seated before the entrance, at the foot of a wooden idol of the same kind with those on the "moral." I was here again made to support one of his anns, and alter wrapping him in red cloth, Kaiieekeea, acconipanied by twelve priests, made an offering of a pig with the usual solemnities. The 1)i<' was then strangled, and a fire )eing kindled, it was thrown into the embers ; and after the hair was singed oir it was again presented, with a repetition of the chanting in the man- ner before described. The dead pig was then held for a short time under the Captain's nose, after which it was laid, with a cocoa-nut, at his feet, and the performers sat down. The "ava" was then brewed and handed round, a fat hog ready dressed waa brought in, and we wore fed as be- fore. During the rest of the time wc remained in the bay, whenever Cap- tain Cook came on shore he was at- tended by one of these priests, who went before him giving notice that After describing the process, King says I brought home with me some baiTels of this pork which wiid pickled at Owhyhee in January 1779, and was tasted by several persons in England about Christmas 1780, and found perfectly sound and w holesome. " COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy.III. B. V.Ch.L had landed, and ordor- [ to tholr own interests ; and besidoa V F, H'h i>,'; i m :U 322 thfc "Orono" mrj the pei)[i](' to j)r()-itrate. tliemselves. The same poison also constantly ac- coinpaiiiod him on the water, stand- ing in the how of tl:<> hnat with a wand in hij hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives who were in canoes, on which they imme- diately left off paddling and lay down on their faces ..ill he had passed. Whenever he stojiped at the observa- tory, Kaireekeea and his brethren im- mediately made their appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bread-lruit, kc, and presented them with the usual solem- nities. It was on these occasions that some of the inferior chiefs frequently requested to be permitted to make an offering to the "•Orono." 'NVheu this was granted, they j)rcseDted the hog themselves, generally with evif^"Pl marks of fear in their countenan' js, whilst Kaiieekeca and the jtriests chanted their accustomed hjTnns. The civilities of this society were not, howeve.', confined to mere ceremony and parade. Our jKirty on shore re- ceived from them every day a const^mt supply of hogs and vegetables more than sufficient for our subsistence, and several canoes loaded with pro- visions were sent to the ships with the same punctuality. No return was ever demanded or even hinted at in the most distant manner. Tlieir prescTits were made with a regularity more like the discharge of a religious duty tha n the effect of mere liberality ; and when we inquired at whose charge all this munificence was displaj'ed, we were told it was at the expense of a great man called Kaoo, the chief of the priests and grandfather to Kairee- keea, who was at that time absent atterv.Iing the King of the island. As ever)i;hing relating to the char- actor and bchanour of this people must be interesting to the reader on account of the tragedy that was after- wards acted here, it will be proper to acquaint him that we had not ahvay . yo much reason to be satisfied with tiift conduct oi the warrior chiefs, or "Eareos," as with that of the priests. In all our dealings with the former W« found them sufficiently attentive *heir habit of stealing, which inay ad- mit of some ex<'use from the univer- sality of the practice amongst th'j islanders of these s^ns, they made y.M of other artifices equally dishor.ad- dling rruud the ships, instead of going on board as was expected, they made toward the shore at the beach wiiere ive were staticjed. As soon as 1 saw them approaching I ordered out our little guard lO receive the Kiiii; ; and Captain Cook, perceiving that ho was going on shore, followed Iil'ii nnd anived nearly at the same time. We conducted them into the tent, whore they had scarcely been seated when the King rose up and in a very grace- ful manner threw over the Captain's shoulders the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helmet on his hc;id, ar.'l a curious fan into his hand. He ol.so sjtread at his feet five or si.\ dlier (;lo>iks, all exceedingly beautiful and i)\' the greatest value. His attendants then brought four very lai-ge hogs, with sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit ; and this part of the ceremony was concluded by the King's or THK lWf,.'.N"D. r-2.3 exchanging nil mes with Captain Cook, which amongst all tlie islaiKh'rs of tlie I'acifie Oeean is esteemed the strongest pledge of fiiendship. A ]>rooession of priest.s, v/ith a venerable old personage at their head, now ap- peared, followed by a lung train of men leading large hogs, and others c.'iriying j^Lmtains, sweet p..t"toe8, kc. Hy the looks and gestures oi Kaireekeea I iminodiateiy kiiew the old man to he tlie chief of the })riest8 bet'uro mentioned, on whose bounty we had .so long suhsi.sted. He had a })iv-ce of red clotli in his hands, which le wra])ped round Cai)tain Cook's shoulders, and afterward presented him with a small pig in the usual form. A .seat was then made for him ne::t to the King, after whieh Kairee- 'Kcea and his followers began their cere- moni(!S, Kaoo and the Chiefs joining in the responses. I was surprised to see in the person of this King the same infirm and emaciated old man that came on board the Kesolution when we wei-e off the noilh-east side of the Island of Mowee ; and we soon discovered amongst his attendants mo.st of the persons who at that time had remained with us all niglit. Of this number were the two younger sons of the King, the eldest of wliom wa.s sixteen years of age, and \m nejihew M;iilia-Maiha, whom at first we had .soriio dilHculty in recol- lecting, his hair being ]>la.stered over with a dirty brown paste ajid powder which was no inean heightening to the most savage face 1 ever be 1 1 eld. As soon as the formalities of the meeting were over, Caj^tain Cook car- ried Teneeolioo, and as many chiefs as tlie jiinnace could hold, on board the Resolution. They were received with every mark of respect that could be shown them ; and Captain Cook, in retuni for the feathered cloak, put a linen i^hirt on the Ki'ig, and girt his own hanger round him. The ancient Kaoo, and about half-a-dozen more old chiefs, remained on shore and took uji their abode at the priests' houses. During all this time not a canoe was seen iu the bay, and the natives either kept within their hutr 824 COOK'S VOYAGES. rVoT.Iir.B.V.CH.Il. ■ 'H ' or lay prostrate on the ground. Re- fore the King left the Resolution, Captain Cook obtained leave for the natives to come and trade with the Khips as nsiial ; but the women, for what reason we could nut learn, still continued nnder the effects of the "taboo," that is, were forbidden to stir from home or to have any com- munication with us. CHAPTER 11. TbB quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the natives having taken away every app»-ehension of danger, we did not hesitate to trust ourselves amongst them at all times and in all situa- tions. The officers of both ships went daily up the country in small parties, or even singly, and frequently remained out the whole night. It would be endless to recount all the instances of kindness and civility which we re- ceived upon those occasions. Wher- ever we went the people flocked about us, eager to offer every assistance in their power, and highly gratified if their services were accepted. Various little arta were practised to attract our notice or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran before as we walked through their villages, and 8top])ed us at every oi>ening where there was room to form a gioup for dancing. At one time we were invited to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk '>r some other refresliment, under the Hhade of their huts ; at another we were seated within a circle of young women, who exerted all their akill and agility to amuse us with songs and dances, 'i ^e satisfaction we derived from their gentleness and hospitality was, however, frequently interrupted by that proi^nsity ^'» stealing wnich they have in common with all the other islanders of these seas. This circumstance w^as the more distressing as it sometimes obliged us to have recourse to acts of severity which we !^ould willingly have avoided if the necessity of the case had not absolutely oalled for them. Some of their moat expert swimmers were one day dis- covered under the ships drawing out the filling-nails of the sheathing, which they performed very dextj- ously by means of a short stick with a flint stone fixed in the end of it. To put a stop to this practice, which endangered the very existence of the vessels, we at first fired small shot at the offenders ; but they easily got out of our reach by di\nng under the ship's bottom. It was therefore found necessary to make an example by Hogging one of them on board the Discovery. About this time a large party of gentlemen from both ships set out on an excursion into the interior parts of the country, with a view of examin- ing its natural productions. [This] afforded Kaoo a fresh opportunity o\ showing his attention and generosity. For as soon as he was informed of their departure, ho sent a large supply of provisions after them, together with orders that the inhabitants of the country through which they were to pass should give them every assistance in their power. And to complete the delicacy and disinterestedness of his conduct, even the people he employed could not be prevailed on to accept the smallest present. After reinaiu- ing out six days our officers returned without having being able to penetrate above twentv miles into the island ; [)artly from want of prftper guides, and partly from the impracticability of th« country. The head of the Resolution's rudder being found exceedingly shaken, and most of the pintles either loose or broken, it was unhung and sent on shore, on the 27th in the morning, to undergo a thorough repair. At the same time the carpenters were sent into the countiy, under conduct of some of Kaoo's people, to cut planks for the head rail -work, which was also entirely decayed and rotten. On the 28th Captain Clerke, whose ill health confined him for the most part on board, paid Ten-eeoboo his first visit at his hut on shore. He was received with the same formalitios as were ob- served with Captain Cook ; and oa I f Jan. 1779.] A BOXINQ-MAllJU. his coming away, though the visit was quite unexp-^ted, he received a present of thirty large hogs and as much fruit and roots as his crew could coQsume in a week. As we had not yet seen anything of their sports or athletic exercises, the natives, at the request of some of our oilicers, entertained us this evening with a boxiug-match. Though tliese games were much inferior, as well in point of solemnity and magnificence, as in the skill and powers of the com- batants, to what we had seen exhibited at the Friendly Islands, yet as they differed in some particulars, it may not be impro])er to give a short account of them. We found a vast concourse of people assembled on a level spot of ground at a little distance from our tents. A long space was left vacant in the midst of them, at the upper end of which sat the judges, under three standards, from which hung slips of cloth of various colours, the skins of two wild geese, a few small birds, and bunches of feathei-s. When the sports were ready to begin, the signal was given by the judges, and immediately two combatants appeared. They came forward slowly, lii'ting up their feet very high beliind, and draw- ing their hands along the soles. As they ajtproached, they frequently eyed each other from head to foot in a con- temptuous manner, casting several i^roh looks at the spectators, straining ia \r muscles, and using a variety of it!<>cted gestures. Being advanced -v iin reach of each other, they stood T- ch l)oth arms held out straight be- fore tiieir faces, at which part all their blows were aimed. They struck iu what ap])eared to our eyes an awkward manner, vith a full swing of the arm ; made no attempt to parry, but eluded their adversary's attack by an inclina- tion of the tody or by retreating. The battle was quickly decided ; for if either of them was knocked down, or even fell by accident, he was considered as ^ranquished, and the victor expressed hia trium])h by a variety of gestures, which usually excited, as was in- tended, a loud laugh among the spec- ttittors. He then waited for a second 325 antagouist ; mid if again rictorious, for a third, till he was at last in hia turn (lefeatf-d. A singular rule ob- serveil in these combats is, that whilst any two are pre[»aring to fight, a third pei"soii may step in and choose either of them for his antagonist, when the other is obliged to withdraw. Some- times three or four folluwed each other in this manner before tiic match was settled. When the combat proved longer than usual, or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs generally stepped in and ended it by putting a stick between the combatants. The same good humour was preserved throughout which we before so much admired in the Friendly Islanders. As these games were given at our desire, we found ii, A-as universally expected that we should have borne our part in them ; but our people, though much pressed by the natives, turnnl a deaf ear to their challenge, remembering full well the blows tiiey got at the Friendly Islands. ThLs day died William Watman, a seaman of the gunner's crew ; an event which i mention the more particularly as death had hitherto been vei/ rare amongst us. He was an old man, and much respected on account of hia at* tachment to Captain Cook. He had formerly served as a marine twenty- one years ; after which he entered as a seaman on lioard the Resolution in 1772, and served ""ith Captain Cook in his voyage towards the South Pole. At tl:eir return he was admitted into Greenwich Hospital, through the Cap- tain's interest, at the came time with himself ; and being resolved to follow throughout the fortunes of his bene- factor, he also quitted it along with him on his bt-ing appointed to the command of the present expedition. During the voyage he had frequently been subject to slight fevers, and was a convalescent when we came into the ba} , where being bent on shore for i^ fev days he conceived himself per- fec tly recovered, and at his own desir* returned on board ; but the day foi< lowing he hada i>aralytic stroke, which in two days more carried him off. At the request of the King of the inland K i ; ■ 320 COOK'S VOYAGES. he was buried on the "morai," and the ceremony was performed with as much solemnity as our situation per- mitted. Old Kaoo and his brethren were spectators, and preserved the raost profound siltMice and attention whilst the strvice was loading. When we began to lill u]i tlie grave, they approaolied it witli great reverence, threw in atJcad pi^, smne oocou-nuts, and plaiituiiis ; ami lur three nights afterwards tlicy surrounded it, sacri- ficing hogs a)id pel forming their usual ceremonies of hymns and prayers, which continued till dayl)reak. At the head of the grave we erected a post, and nailed ujjon it a sijuare piece of •board, on which was inscribed the name of the deceased, his age, cud the day of his death.' This they pro i' ' not to remove; and sve have no di^ but that it will be sulfired to remain, M long as the frail materials of which it is made will permit. The ships being in great want of fuel, the Captain desired me on the 2d of Febmary to treat with the [)riest3 for the purchr^se of the rail that sur- rounded the top of the "moral." I must confess I had at first some doubt about the decency of this proposal, and was apprehensive that even the bare mention of it might be considered by them as a piece of shocking im- piety. In this, however, I found my- self mistaken. Not the smallest sur- prise was expressed at the a}t})lication, and the wood was readily given, even without stipulating for anything in retuiu. Whilst the sailors were tak- ing it away, I observed one of them carrying off a carved image ; and on farther inquiry I found that they had conveyed to the boats the whole semi- circle.* Though this was done in the presence of the natives, who had not shown any mark of resentment at it but had even assisted them in the removal, I thouglit it proper to speak to Kaoo on the subject, who appeared very indifferent about the matter, and only desired that we would restore the centre image I have mentioned ^ Of twelve images, described in tti« preceding Chapter. [VoY.lII. B.V.Cu.11, before, wliich he carried into one of the priest's huus'is. Terreeoboo and his chiefs had for some days past been very inquisitive about the time of our departure. This circumstance had excited in me a great curiosity to know what opinion this people Jiad formed of us, and what were tht-ir idciis respecting the cause and objects of our voyage. I took some })aiiis to satisfy myself on these points, but could never learn anything further than tiiat they imagined we came from some country where pro- visions had failed, and that our visit to them was merely for the purpose of filling our bellies. Indeed, the meagre appearance of some of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we sat down to their fresh provisions, and our great anxiety to purchase and carry off as nuich as we were able, led them naturally enough to such a con- clusion. To these may be added a circumstance which puzzled them ex- ceedingly — our having no women with us, together with our f^uiet coniluct and unwarlike appearance. It was ridiculous enough to see them strok- ing the sides and patting the bellies of the sailors (who were certainly much improved in the sleekness of their looks d^aiug our shoit stay in the island), aad telling them, partly by signs and partly by words, that it was time for them to go ; but if they would come again the next bread-fruit seiison they should be better able to su[)ply their wants. We had now been sixteen days in the bay, and if our enormous consum}>tiou of hogs aiid vegetables be considered, it need not be wondered that they should wish to see us take our leave.' It is ' It is shrewdly enough suggested, in a note in Kerr's Collection (voL xvi., page 439), that the subsequent unexpected returu of the ships to Karakakooa Bay may have alarmed the natives for the security of their own sustenance until the next season of plenty, and in a certain rnejisur* predisposed them to deal with the strangers in a less '"nendly, trustful, and respectful way. t I i PRESENTS FROM TERR EEO BOO TO COOK. Fkb. 1770.] rery probable, however, that Terreeo- boo had no other view in his inquiries at present than a desire of njaking Bufiicieut prepuratiuu for disniissiug OS with presents suitable to the respect and kiuUucss with which he hail re- ceived us. For ou our telling hiiu we shouM leave the island on the next day but uue, we observed that a sort of proclamation was immediately luade through the villages to require the people to bring in their hogs and vegetables for the King to present to the " Orono " on his departure. We were this day much diverted at the beach by the buifooueries ol one of the natives. He held in his haul an instr.:.'uent of the sort described [in Book 111., Chapter XII.']; some bits of sea-weed were tied round his ueck ; and round each leg a piece of strong netting about nine inches deep, ou which a great number of dogs' teeth were loosely fastened in rows. His style of dancing was entirely bur- lew^ue, and accompanied with strange grimaces and pantumimical distor- nons of the face, which, though at times inexpressibly ridiculous, yet on the whole were without much mean- ing or expression. In the evening we vere again entertained with wrestling and boxing-matches, and we displayed in return the few fireworks we had left. Nothing could be better cal- culated to excite the admiration of these islanders, and to impress them with an idea of our great superiority, than an exhilntion of this kind. Cap- tain Cook has already described the extraordinary effects of that which was made at Hupaee; and though the present was in every respect infinitely inferior, yet the astouismnent of the natives was nut les». 1 have before mentioned that the carpenters frum both ships bad been sent up the country to cut [>lanks for the head-rail work of the Resolution. This was the third day since their devartme, and having received no in- telligence from them, we began to be very anxious for their safety. We were communicating our uppreheu- ^ AnU, page 240. 327 sions to old Kaoo, who appeared as much concerned as ourselves, and were concerting measures with him for sending after them, \v\i>in they arrived all safe. They 'lad been ob- liged to go farther into the country than was expected before they met with trees tit for their purpose, and it was this circumstance, together with the biuiuess of the roads, and the dithcuUy of bringing back the timber, which had detained them so long. They spoke in high terms of their guides, who both supplied them with provisions, and guarded their tools with the utmost iiJ ( m 11 I ( 328 COOK'S were picked out to be salted for sea- store, and upwards of thirty smaller Cigs and the vegetables were divided etween the two crews. The same day we quitted the " morai " and got the tents and astro- nomical instruments on board. The cliarm of the taboo was now removed ; and we had no sooner left the place than the natives rushed in and search- ed eagerly about in expectation of finding something of value that we might have left behind. As I hap- pened to remain the last on sliore, and waited for the return of the boat, several came crowding about me; and haying made me sit down by them, began to lament our separation. It was, indeed, not without difficulty I was able to quit tliem. And here I hope 1 may be permitted to relate a trifling occurrence in which 1 was principally concerned. Having had the command of the party on shore during the whole time we were in the ba7, Ihad an opportunity of becom- ing better acquainted with the natives, and of being better known to them, than those whose duty required them to be generally on board. As I had every reason to be satisfied with their kindness in general, so I cannot too often nor too particularly mention the unbounded and constant fri»ixid- shij) of their priests. On my part, 1 spared no endeavours to conciliate their affections and gain their esteem ; and I had the good fortune to succeed so far, that when the time of our departure was made known I was strongly solicited to remain behind, not without offers of the most flatter- ing kind. When I excused myself by saying that Captain Cook would not five his consent, they proposed that should retire into the mountains, where, they said, they would conceal me till after the departure of the ships; and on my further assuring them that the Captain would not leave the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, whose son they supposed I was, with a formal request that I might be left behind. The Captain, to avoid giv- ing a positive refusal to an ofl'er so VOYAGES. [VoY. III. B.V. Ch.il kindly intended, told them that h« could not part with mo at that time, but that he sliould return to the island next year, and would then endeavour to settle the matter to their satisfac- tion. Early in the morning of the 4th we unmoored and sailed out of the bay, with the Discovery in company, and were followed by a great number of canoes. Cajttain Cook's design was to finish the survey of Owhyhee before he visitod the other islands, in ho})es of meeting with a road better sheltered than the bay we had just left ; and in case of not succeeding here, he pur- posed to take a view of the south-east )art of Mowee, where the natives in* brmed us we should find an excellent larbour. We had calm weather all this and the following day, which made our progress to the northward very slow. We were accompanied by a great number of the natives in their canoes, and Terreeoboo gave a fresh proof of his friendship to Captain Cook by a large present of hogs and vegetables that was sent after him. In the night of the 6th, having a light breeze off the land, we made some way to the northward ; and in the morning of the 6th, having passed the westernmost point of the island, we found oui-selves abreast of a deep bay called by the natives Toe-yah- yah. We had great hopes that this bay would furnish us with a safe and commodious harbour, as we saw to the north-east several fine streams of water, and the whole had the appear- ance of being well sheltered. These observations agreeing with the ac- counts given us by Koah, who accom- panied Captain Cook, and had changed his name, out of compliment to us, into "Britannee," the pinnace was hoisted out, and the master, with " liritannee" for his guide, was sent to examine the bay, whilst the ships worked up after them. In the after- noon the weather became gloomy, and the gusts of wind that blew off the land, were so violent as to make it necessary to take in all the sails, and bring to under the mizzen-staysail, All the canoes left us at the begin* : ! f r Feb. 177».1 RL'SOLUTION DAMAGED IN A GALE. 329 ning of thfl gale, and Mr IJligh, on his retaru, had tlie satisfaotion of saving an old womiui and two men, whose canoe had been overset by the violence of the wind as they were endeavourincf to gain the shore. Be- sides those distressed people, we had A great many women on board whom the natives had left behind in their Lurry to shift for themselves. The master reported to Captain Cook that he had landed at the only village he saw, on the north side of the bay, where he was directed to some wells of water, bnt found tbey would by no means answer our purpose ; that he afterward proceeded farther into the bay, wliieh runs inland to a great depth, and stretches toward the foot of a very conspicuous high mountain, situated on the north-west end of the island; but that instead of meeting with safe anchorage, as "Britannee " had taught him to expect, he found the shores low and rocky, and a flat bed of coral rocks running along the coast and extendi) ig upwards of a mile from the land, on the outside of which the depth of water was twenty fathoms over a sandy bottom; and that, in the meantime " Britannee " had con- trived to slip away, being afraid of returning, as we imagined, because his information had not proved true and successful. In the evening, the weather being more moderate, we again mado sail ; but about midnight it blew so vio- lently as to split both the fore and mpoituiiity of releasing their friends on bouid I'rom their cun- imenieut; and at uoon, being within a mile of the shore, a few canoes came oflf to us, but so crowded with people that there was not room in them for any of our guests. We therefuie hoisted out the pinnace to CJiiTy them on shore ; and the master who wont with them, had directions to exanane the south coasts of the bay for water, but returned without finding any. The winds bping variable, and a cuireiit setting strong to the nurth- wartl, we made but little progress in our leturn ; and at 8 o'clock in the evening of the 9th it began to blow very hard from the SE., which ob- liged lis to close reef the top-sails; and at two in the morning of the 10th, in a heavy squall, wo found nirselves close in with the breakers that lie to the northward of the west point of Owhyhee. We had just room to haul off and avoid them, and fired several guns to apprise the Discovery of the danger. In the forenoon, the weather was more moderate, and a few canoes came otf to us, from which we learned that the late storms had done much mischief, and that several large canoes had been lost. During the remainder of the day we kept beating to windward, and before night we were within a mile of the bay; but not choosing to run on while it was dark, we stood off and on till daylight next morning, when we dropped anchor nearly in the same place as before. CHAPTER III. ITe were employed the whole of the 11th and i)art of the 12th in getting out the fo e-mast and sending it with the car -^♦^♦^rs on shore. Besides the damage which the head of the m:ist had sustained, we found the heel ex- ceedingly lotten, having a large hole up the middle of it capable of hohling four or five ci»ooa-m:ts. It was not however, thought necessary to shorten it, and fortunately the kigs of red toa-wood wliich had been eut at Eimeo for anchor-stocks were found fit to rfpluce the sprung pait of the fishes. As these repairs were likely to take up several days, Mr liayly and myselt got the astronomical ap- paratus on shore, and pitched our tents on the "morai;" having with us a guard of a cor])oral and siz marines. We renewed our frien'lly correspondence with the priests, wlio, for the gi'eiiter security of the work- men and tlieir tools, taboot^d the place where the mast lay, sticking their wands round it as before. The sail- makers were also sent on shore to re- pair the damages which had taken ()lace in their department during the ate gales. They were lodged in a house adjoining to the *' moral," that was lent us by the priests. Such were our arrangements on shore. I shall now proceed to the account of those other transactions with the natives which led by degrees to the fatal catastrophe of the 14th. Upon coming to anchor we were surprised to find cur reception very diflerent from what it had been on our first arrival ; no shouts, no bustle, no confusion, but a solitaiy bay, with only here and there a canoe stealing close along the shore. The impulse of curiosity, which had before operated to so great a degree, might now in- deed be supposed to have ceased ; but the hospitable treatment we had in variably met with, and the friendly footing on which we parted, gave us some reason to expect tliat they would again have flocKed sibont us with great joy on our return. We were forming various conjectures upon the occasion of this extraordinary appear- ance, when our anxiety was at len^h relieved by the return of a boat which had been sent on shore, and brought us word that Teireeoboo was absent and had left the buv undor tlie taboo. \- SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. 331 Feb. 1779.] Though this accoiuit appeared very satisliu-tdry to most of us, yet others were of uniiuon, or rather perhaps hace heeu led by subsu<[ueut events to imagiuo, that there was soiiiethiag at this tiiue, very suspicions in the behaviour of the natives; md that the interdiction of all intercourse with us, on pretence of the King's ab.M-nce, was only to give him time tu c.iisult with his chiefs in what maiiiiur it might be proper to treat us. Whether these suspicions were well founded, or the account given by the natives was tlie truth, we wore never able to ascertain. For thoui;h it is not im- probable that our &upre- hended any change of conduct. In support of this opinion I may add the account of another accident, Erecisely of th. same kind, which ap[>ened to us on uur fust visit, the day before the arrival of the King. A native had sold a hog ou boaid the Besolution, aud taken the price agreed on, when Pareea, jiassiug by, advised the man not to part with the hog without an advanced price. For this he was sharply spoken to aud pushed away ; and the taboo being soon after laid on the bay, we had at firet no doubt but that it wivs in cunsenuence of the otfence given to the chief. Both these accidents serve to show how very difficult it is to di-aw any certain conclusion from the actions of people with whose customs as well as umguage we are so imperfectly ac- quainted ; at the same time, some idea may be formed from them of the difficulties, at the first view, perhaps, not very apparent, which those have to encounter who, in all their trans- actions with these iitraugers, have to steer their coiurse amidst so much nu< certainty, where a trilling eiTor may be attuuded witli even the most fatal consei pierces. However true or false our conjectures may be, things weut on in their usual quiet course till the afternoon of the loth. Towards the evening of that «lay, the olhcer who commanded the water- ing [larty of the Discovery, came to inform me that sever.il chiefs had cU) senibled at the well uear the beach« driving away the natives whom he had hired to assist the sailors in roll ing down the casks to the shore, lie told me, at the same time, that hit thought their behaviour extremely susiiicious, aud that they meant Ic give hiiu some further disturbauce. At his lequest therefore, I aent a marine along with him, but sutl'ered him to take only his side arms. In a short time the officer returned, aud ou his acquainting me that the islanders had armed themselves with stones, and were growing very tumul- tuous, 1 went myself to the si)ot, attended by a marine with his mus- ket. Seeing us approach, they threw away their stones, and on my speak- ing to some of tlie chiefs, the mob were driven away, and those who chose it were sutfercd to assist in fill- ing the casks. Having left things quiet here, I went to meet Captain Cook, whom I saw coming on shore in the pinnace. 1 related to him what had just passed ; and he ordered me, in case of their beginning to throw stones or behave insolently, immedi- ately to fire a ball at the otienders. I accordingly gave orders to the cor- poral to have the pieces of the sen- tinels loaded with ball instead of small shot. Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a con- tinued fire of muskets from the Dis- covery, which we observed to be directed at a canoe that we saw pad- dling towards the shore in great haste, pursued by one of our smah boats. We immediately conchuled that the firing was in consequence of some theft, and Captain Cook ordered me to follow him with a marine armod, and to endeavour to seize tiie |,>$o)>l« I tr !^^ 882 COOK'S VOYAOES. [Vot.iii.b.v.ch.ih. 11'^ as they came on shore. Accordingly wo ran towards the place where we supposetl the canoe would laud, but were too lato, the peojdu havin",' quit- ted it and made their escajie iiito tlie country before our arrival. NVe were at this time ignoraut that the goods had been already y;storod ; and as we thought it probaldc, from the circum- stances we had at Urst observed, that they might be of impoitauce, were unwilling to reliuquish our hopes of recovering them. Having therefore inquired of the natives whicli way the people had fled, we followed them till it was near dark, when, jud-^ing our- selves to be about three milts from the tents, and suspecting that the natives who frequently encouraged us in the pursuit were aniusing us with false information, we thought it in vain to continue our search any longer, and returned to the beach. During our absence, a difference of a more serious and unpleasant nature had happened. The officer who had been sent in the small boat, and was returning on board witii the goods which had been restored, observing Captain Cook and me engaged in the {mrsuit of the offenders, thought it lis duty to seize the canoe, which was left drawn up on the shore. Un- foituuately this canoe belonged to Pareea, who, arriving at the same moment from on board the Discovery, claimed his property with many pro- testations of his innocence. The officer refusing to give it up, and being joined by the crew of the pin- nace, which was waiting for Captain Cook, a scufHe ensued, in which Pa- reea was knocked down by a violent blow on the head with an oar. The natives who were collected about the spot, and had hitherto been peaceable spectators, immediately attacked our people with such a shower of stones, as forced them to letreat with groat precipitation, and swim off to a rock at some distance from the shore. The Einnace was immediately ransacked y the islanders ; and but for the timely interposition of Pareea, who spomeid to have recovered from the blow, and forgotten it at the same instant, would soon have been entirely demolished. Having driven away the crowd, he made signs to our people that they might come and take Itosstission of the ])innace, and that le would endeavour to get back the things which had been taken out of it. After their departure, ho followed them in his canoe with a midshi{>- man's cap, and some other trifling articles of the i»luudor, and, with much apparent concern at what had hapi)encd, asked if the " Orono " would kill him, and whether he would permit him to come on board the next day ? On being assured that he should be well received, he joined noses (as their custom is) with the officers in token of friendship, and pad- dled over to the village of Kowrowa. When Captain Cook was informed of what had passed, he expressed much uneasiness at it, and as we were returning on board — " I am afraid," said he, "that these people will oblige me to use some violent measures; for," he added, "they must not be left to imagine that they have gained an advantage over us." However, as it was too late to take any steps this evening, he contented himself with giving orders that every man and woman on board should be immediately turned out of the ship. As soon as this order was executed, I returned on shore ; and our former confidence in the natives being now much abated by the events of the day, I posted a double guard on the "moral," with orders to call me if they saw any men lurking about the beach. At about 11 o clock five islanders were observed creeping round the bottom of the " moral ; ' they seemed very cautious in approaching us, and at last, finding themselves discovered, retired out of sight About midnight, one of them venturing up close to the observatoiy, the sentinel fired oVtiT him, on which the man fled and we passed the remainder of the night without further disturbance. Next morning, at daylight, I went on board the Resolution for the time* keeper, and in my way was hailed by the Discovery, and informed ibiU 111. Tlir. CUTTRR OF TIIK DiSOUVERY STOLKK. (luring I Feb. 1779.] their cittor Lid been stolen the night from the buoy whtTC it wis mooreil. When I arriveil on boanl I found the marines arming, and Cap- tain Cook loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilst I was relating to liini what had happened to us in the night, he interrupted me with some eager- ness, and acquainted me with the loss of the Discovery's cutter, and with the preparations he was making for its recovery. It had been his usual practice, whenever anything of consequence was lost at any of the islands in this ocean, to get the king or some of the principal *' Erees," on board, and to keep them as hostages till it was restored. This method, which had been always attended with success, he meant to pursue on the present occasion ; and, at the same time, had given orders to stop all the canoes that should attempt to leave the bay, with an intention of seizing and destroying them if he could not recover the cutter by peaceable means. Accordingly, the boats of both ships, well manned and armed, were sta- tioned across the bay ; and before I left the ship some great guns had been fired at two large canoes that were attempting to make their escape. It was between 7 and 8 o'clock when we quitted the ship together ; Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr Phillips and nine marhies with him, and myself in the small boat. The last orders I received from him were to quiet the minds of the natives on our side of the bay, by assuring them they should not be hurt ; to keep my people together ; and to be ot ng tlie shore, and hiia« liooa"), came up to the Captain, flourishing his weapon by way of de- fiance, and threatening to throw the stone. The Captain desired him to fK'sist ; but the man persisting in his insolence, he was at length provoked to fire a load of snrill sliot. The man liiiviiig his mat on, which the shot was not alili' to ]ienetrate, this had no other ellect than to iiritato and en* courage them. Several stones were thrown at the marines ; and one of the •• Erees " flttenj])ted to stab Mr rhillipswith his " pahooa," but failed in the attempt, and received from him a blow with the l)utt end of his mus- ket. Captain Cook now fired liia second barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremost of the na- tives. A general attack with stoneii immediately followed, which was an- swered by a discharge of musketry from the mariues and the people in the boats. The islaudeis, contrary to the expectations of every one, stood the fire with great finnness ; and be- fore the marines had time to reload they broke in upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What followed w m a scene of the utmost horror and con- fusion. Four of the marines were cut off amongst the rocks in their retreat, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy ; three more were dangerously wounded ; and the lieutenant, who had received a stab between the shoulders with a "pahooa," having fortunately reserved his fire, shot the man who had wounded him just as he was going to re]>eat his blow. Our unfortunate commander, the last time he was seen distinctly, was standing at the water's , r,F. V:9.} DKATll OF CA •«lg(! and calling out to the boats to Ct'.'we firing and to pull in. If it be trne, ns sniiie of those who were pro- B«'rit hiire ima<;inHd, that tho nmniios and boatmen had fired without liis ordiTH, and tliat he was desirous of preventing any further bloodshed, it is not improbable that hia humanity on this occasion jiroved fatal to liiin. For it waa remarked that wliilst he faced the natives none of them had offered him any violence, but lliat hav- itig turned about to give his orders to the boats, he was stabbed in tlie back, and fell with his face into the water. On seeing liini fall, the islanders set up a great shout, and his body was immediately dragged on shore and sur- rounded by the enemy, who, snatching the dagger out of each other's hands, •howen a savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction. Tluis fell our great and excellent commander ! After a life of so much distinguished and successful enter- {>rise, his death, as far as regards limself, cannot be reckoned prema- ture, since he lived to finish the great work for which he seems to have been designed, and was rather removed from the enjoyment than cut off from the acquisition of glory. How sincerely bis loss was felt aiid lamented by those who had so long found their general security in his alcill and conduct, and every consolation under their hard- ships in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor possible for me to describe ; much less shall I attempt to paint the horror with which we were stru« '-. ard the universal de- jection and ilismay which followed ao dreadful and uuexitected a calamity.' CHAPTER IV. It has been already related that fo'.ir * Captain King occn]»ios tlie rest of the Cliapter v ith a sketch of his groat chief's career and an eulogium on his ahilities, achievements, and character, that is stamped with the eloquence of heartfelt affection and esteem. PTATN COOK. [!35 of the marines who attended C>«.pU»in Cook were killed by the isl,T.nder« on tliesjiot. The rest. "wit* Mr IMiillijw, their lioutenaiit, threw tlieni-clvos into the water, and escaped under covt-r of a smart fire from the boats On this occasion a remarkable instance of gal- lant behaviour and of all'ection for his men was shown by tlwit odicer ; for he had scarcely got into the boat, wlien seeing one of the marines, who was a bad swiitmier, stniggling in the water, and in danger of lieing tikeu by tlie enemy, ho imuiodiately jumped into the sea to his assistance, though much woundcil himself; and alter receiving a blow on the head from a stone, which had nearly sent him to the bottom, he caught the man by the hair and brought him safe oil'. Our people continued for some time to keep uj> a constant fire from the Iwats (which during the whole transaction were not more than twenty yards from the land), in order to afford their un- fortunatf companions, if any of them should still remain alive, an oppor- tunity of escaping. Tiiese efforts, seconded by a few guns that wei-e lired at the same time from the Resolu- tion, having forced tiie natives at bust to retire, a small boat manned by five of our young midshipmen pullod to- wards the shore, where tliey saw the bodies, v/ithout any signs of life, lying on the ground ; but judging it dan- gerous to attempt to bring them oil mth so small a force, and their am- munition being nearly expended, they returned to tlie ships, leaving them in possession of the islanders, together A'ith ten stands of arms. As soon as the general consternation which the news of this calamity occa- sioned throughout both crews had a little subsided, their attention was called to our party at the " moral," where the mast and sails were on shore with a guard of only six marines. It is iinf»ossible for me to describe the emotions of my own mind during the time these transactii^iis had been car- rj-ing on at the other side of the bay. Being at the distance only of a short mile from the village of Kowrowa, we could see distinctly an immense crowd ! I' H m •i ii I i ;' ii •> \mi 836 collected on the spot where Captain Cook had jnst before lantled. Wa heard the firing of the musketry, and could perceive some cxtiuordinary bustle aiid agitation in the multitude. Wo afterward saw the natives flying, the boats retire from the shore, and passing ar.d repassing in great stillness between the ships. I must confess that my heart soon misgave me. Where a life so dear and valuable was con- cerned, it was impossible not to be alarmed by appearances both new and threatening. But besides this, I knew that a long and uninterrupted coui-se of success in his transactions with the natives of these seas had given the Captain a degree of confidence that I was always fearful might, at some un- lucky moment,' put him too much off his guard ; and I now saw all the dan- f;ers to which that confidence might ead, without receiving much conso- lation from considering the experience that had given rise to it. My first care, on hearing the muskets fired, was to assure the people who were assembled in considerable numb '^ round the wall of our consecrated field, and seemed equally at a loss with ourselves how to account for what they had seen and heard, that they should not be molested ; and that at all events I was desirous of con- tinuing on peaceable terms with tbeui. We remained in this posture till the Doats bad returned on board, when Captain Gierke observing through his telescope that we were sun-ounded by the natives, and apprehending they meant to attack us, ordered two^four- pounders to be fired at theni; Tor- tunately these guns, though well aimed, did no mischief, and yet gave the natives a convincing proof of tneir power. One of the balls broke a cocoa- nut tree in the middle under which a party of them were sitting ; and the othor shivered a rock that stood in an exact lino with them. As I had just before given them the strongest assur- ances of their safety, I was exceedingly mortified at this act of hostility ; and, to prevent a repetition of it, imme- diately despatched a boat to acquaint Oaptain Gierke that at present I was COOK'S VOYAGES. [Voy. III. R. V. Gh. IV, on the most friendly terms with the natives ; and tliat, if occasion should hereafter arise for altering my conduct toward them, I would hoist a jack as a signal for him to afford us all the assistance in his power. We expected the return of the boat with the utmost impatience ; and after remaining a quarter of an hour under the most torturing anxiety and sus- pense, our fears were at lengtli oon- hnned by the amval of Mr Bligh, with orders to strike the tents as qnickly as possible and to send the sails that were repairing on board. Just at the same moment our friend Kaireekeea, having also received in- telligence of the death of Captain Cook from a native who had arrived from the other side of the bay, came to me with grerit sorrow and dejection in his countenance, to inqu'":. if it was true. Our situation was at this time extremely critical and import- ant ; not only our own lives, but the event of the expedition and the return of at least one of the ships being in- volved in the same common danger. We had the mast of the Resolution, and the greatest part of our sails, on shore, under the protection of only six marines; their loss would havo been irreparable; and though tho natives had not as yet shown tho smaliv^Bt disposition to molest us, yet it was impossible to answer for the alteration which the news of the trans- action at Kowrowa might produce. I therefore thought it prudent to dis- semble my belief of the death of Cap- tain Cook, and to desire Kaireekeec, to discourage the report 'est either the icar of our resentment, or the successful example of tlieir country- men, might lead them to seize tho favour -able opportunity v»rhich at thic time offered itst)f of giving us & second blow. At the same time, I advised him to bring old Kaoo and tho rest of the priests into a large house that was close to the ** moral," partly out of regard to their safety in case it should have been found necessary to Eroceed to extremities, and partly to ave him near us in order to make use of his authority with tho people } \ Frb. 1779.3 WARLIKE ATTITUDE if it could be instrumental in preserv- ing peace. Having placed the marines on tlie top of the "morai," which formed a strong and advantageous post, and left the command with Mr Bligh, giving him the most positive dircc- uons to act entirely on the defensive, I went on board the Discovc/y in order to represent to Captain Gierke the dangerous situation of onr aflairs. As soon as I quitted the spot the natives began to annoy our people with stones, and I had scarcely reached the chip before I heard the firing of the marines. I therefore returned instantly on shore, where I found things growing every moment more alarming. The natives were arming and putting on their mats, and their numbers increased very fast. 1 could also perceive several large bodies marching towards us along the clitT which separates the village of Kakooa from the north side of the bay, where the village of Kowrcwa is situated. They began at first to attack us with stones from behind the walls of their enclosures, and findingnoresistanceon our part, they soon grew more daring. A few resolute follows, having crept along the beach unilcr cover of the rocks, suddenly made their appearance at the foot of the "morai," with a design, as it seemed, of storming it on the side next the sea, which was its only accessible part ; and were not dislodged till after they had stood a considerable number of shot and seen one' of their party fall. The bravery of one of these assailants well deserves to be particularly mentioned. For having returned to carry off his com- panion amidst the fire of our whole party, a wound which he received made him quit the body and retire ; but in a few minutes he again ap- E eared, and being again woimdcd, e was obliged a second time to re- treat. At this moment I arrived at the "moral," and saw him return the third time, bleeding and faint ; and being informed of what had happened, I forbade the soldiers to fire, and he was sulFered to carry off bis friend, which he was just able OF THE NATIVES. ;«? to perform, and then fell down him- self and expired. About this time, a strong reinforce- ment from both ships having landed, the natives retreated behind tlunrwalla, which giving me access to our friendly priests, I sent one of them to endea- vour to bring thoij" countrymen to some terms, and to |.ropoae to them that if they would desist from throw- ing stones I would not permit our men to fire. This truce was agreed to, and we were sulTcred to launch the mast and carry off the sails and our astronomical apparatus un molest e»l. As soon as we had quitted the "moral," they took possession of it, and some of them threw a few stones, but with- out doing us any mischief. It was half-an-hour past 11 o'clock when I got on board the Discovery, whevo I found no decisive plan had been adopted for our future proceedings.. The restitu- tion of the boat, and the recovery of the body of Ca]>tain Cook, were the objects which on all hands wo agreed to insist on ; and it was my opinion that some vigorous steps should be taken in case the demand of them was not immediately coni])lied with. Though my feelings on the death of a beloved and honoured friend may be suspected to have had some share in this opinion, yet there were cer- tainly other reasons, and those of the most serious kind, that had con- siderable weight with me. The con- fidence which their success in killing our chief and forcing us to quit the shore must iiatarally have inspired, and tho advantage, howpA'er tnfling, which they had obtained over us the preceding day, wouhl, I had no doubt. encourage them to m-»Ve Home furth^ dangerous attempts; and the mora especially as they had little reason, from wliat they had hitherto seen, to dread the effects of our fire-arms. In- deed, contrary to the expectations of every one, this sort of weapon had produced no signs of terror in them. On onr side, such was the condition of tlic ships, and the state of discipline amongst us, that had a vigorous attack been made on us in the night it would have been impossible to I ' !« t>' II vh m COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. B. T. Ch IV. answer for the consequences. In these apprehensions I was supported by the opinion of most of the officers on board, and nothing seemed to me BO likely to encourage the natives to make the attempt as the appearance of our being inclined to an accommo- dation which they could only attri- bute to weakness or fear. In favour of more conciliatory mea- sures, it was iustly urged that the mischief was (lone, and irreparable ; that the natives had a strong claim to our regard on account of their fonner friendship and kindness, and the more especially as the late melancholy accident did not a])pear to have arisen from any premeditated design ; that, on the part of Terrceoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his readiness to accompany Captain Cook on board, and his having actually sent his two sons into the boat, must free him from the smallest degree of suspicion ; that the conduct of his women and the " Erees " might easily be ac- counted for, from the apprehensions occasioned by the armed force with which Captain Cook came on shore, and the hostile preparations in the bay, appearances so dilFerent from the terms of friendship and confidence in which both parties had hitherto lived, that the arming of the natives was evidently with a design to resist the attempt, which they had some reason to imagine would be made, to carry off their King by force, and was naturally to be expected from a people full of af- fection and attachment to their chiefs. To these motives of humanity others of a pnidential nature were added; that we were in want of water and other refreshments; that our fore-mast would require six or eight days* work before it could be stepped ; that the spring was advancing apace, and that the speedy prosecution of our next northern expedition ought now to be our sole object ; that therefore to en- sage in a vindictive contest with the mnabitants might not only lay us under the imputation of unnecessary cruelty, but would occasion an un- avoidable delay in the equipment of Uie ships, lu this latti oi^inion Cap- tain Gierke concurred, and though I waa convinced that an early display of vigorous resentment would more effec- tually have answered every olyect both of prudence and humanity, I was not sorry that the measures I had recommended were rejected. For though the contemptuous behaviour of the natives, an' their subsequent opposition to our necessary operations on shore, arising I have no doubt from misconstruction of our lenity, compelled us at last to have recourse to violence in our own defence ; yet I am not so sure that the circumstances of the case would, in the opinion of the world, have justified the use of force on our part in the first instance. Cautionary rigour is at all times in- vidious, and has this additional ob- jection to it, that the severity of a preventive course, when it best suc- ceeds, leaves its expediency the least apparent. During the time we were thus en- gaged in concerting some plan for our future conduct, a prodigious concourse of natives still kept possession of the shore ; and some of them came off in canoes, and had the boldness to ap- proach within pistol-shot of the ships and to insult us by various marks of contempt and defiance. It was with great difficulty we could restrain the sailors from the use of their arms on these occasions; but as pacific mea- sures had been resolved on, the canoes were suffered to return unmolested. In pursuance of this plan, it was de- termined that I should proceed to- wards the shore with the boats of both ships, well manned and armed, with a view to bring the natives to % parley, and if possible to obtain a conference with some of the chiefs. If this attempt succeeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, and particu- larly that of Captain Cook ; to threaten them with our vengeance in case of a refusal ; but by no means to fire un- less attacked, and not to land on any account whatever. These orders were delivered to me before the whole party and in the moat positive manner. I left the ships about 4 o'clock in tH aftei-noon, and as we approached i I PliI?F?r>Y OK KOAH AND THE CHIEFS. Fbb. 1779. j the shore I perceived every indication of a hostile reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion, the women and children retiring, the men putting on their war^raats and arm- ing themselves with long spears and daggers. We also observed that since the morning they had thrown up stone breastworks along the beach whore Captain Cook had landed, probably in expectation of an attack at that place ; and as soon as we were within reach they began to throw stones at us with slings, but without doing any mischief. Concluding, therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in vain unless I first gave them some ground for mutual confidence, I ordered the armed boats to stop and went on in the small boat alone, with a white flag in my hand, which, by a general cry of ioy from the natives, I had the satisfac- tion to find was instantly undei'stood. Thewomen immediately returned from the side of the hill whither they had retired ; the men threw off their mats ; and all sat down together by the water-side, extending their arms and inviting me to come on shore. Though this behaviour was very expressive of a friendly disposition, yet I could not help entertaining some suspicions of its sincerity. But when I saw Koah, with a boldness and assurance altogether unaccount- able, swimming off towards the boat with a white flag in his hand, I thought it necessary to return this mark of confidence, and therefore re- ceived him into the boat, though armed, a circumstance which did not tend to lessen my suspicions. I must confess I had long harboured an un- favourable opinion of this man. The priests had always told us that he was of a malicious disposition, and no friend of ours ; and the repeated detec- tions of his fraud and treachery had convinced us of the truth of their re- presentations. Add to all this, the shocking transaction of the morning, in which he was seen acting a princi- gal part, made me feel the utmost error at finding myself so near him ; Mid as h0 came up to me with feigned 'M9 tears and embrartHl me, I wan so dis- trustful of his intentions that I could not help taking hold of the point of the '* pahooah which he held in his hand and taming it from me. I told him that I had come to demand th^ body of Captain Cook, and to declare war against them unless it was in- stantly restored. He assured me this should be done as soon as pos- sible, and that he would go himself for that purpose ; and, after begging of me a piece of iron witli much atr surance, as if nothing ex (ordinary had happened, he lea|>ed into the sea and swam ashore, calling out to his countrymen that we were aU friends again. We waited near an hour with great anxioty for his return, during which time the rest of the boats had ap- proached so near the shore as to enter into conversation witli a party of the natives at some distance from us, by whom they were plainly given to understand thdt the body had been cut to pieces and carried up the country ; but of this circumstance I was not informed tUl oar return to the ships. I began now to expresn some impatience at Koah's delay, upon which the chiefs pressed me exceedingly to come on shore, assur- ing m«i that if 1 would go myself to Tp' ^eoboo the body would certainly b«r tored to me. When they found they could not j ovail on me to Innd, they attempt<>.i, under a pretence of wishing to converse with n ore ease, to decoy our boat among sujue rocks where they would have had it in their power to cut us off" from the rpst. It was no difficult matter t' ce tli rough these artifice^ and I aa therefore strongly inclined to break off all further communication with them, when a chief came to ns who jts th« particular friend of Caj Clerke and of the officers of the Discovery, on board which ship he had sailed when we last left the bay, intending to takvi his passage to Mowee. Hu told us he came from Terreeoboo to acquaint us, that the body was car- ried up the country, but that it should be brought to us the next morning. I ti 340 COOK'S VOYAGED. There appeared b great deal of sin- cerity in his matnier, and being asked if he told a nilsehood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, \*hich is understood amongst these islanders as the sign of truth, in tlio use of which they are veiy scrupulous. As I was now at a loss in what manner to proceed, I sent ilr Van- couver to acquaint Captain Clcrlce with all that had passed; that my ojpinion was, they meant not to keep their word with us, and were so far from being sorry at wlmt had hap- pened, that on the contrary they were full of spirits and confidence on ac- count of their late success, and sought only to gain time till they could con trive some scheme for getting us into their power. ^r Vancouver camo back with orders for me to return on board ; having first given the natives to understand that if the body was not brought the next morning the town should be destroyed. When they saw that we were going off they endeavoured to provoke us by the most insulting and contemptuous ges- tures. Some of our people said they could distinguish several of the na- tives parading about in the clothes of our unfortunate comrades ; and among them a chief brandishing Captain Cook's hangar, and a woman holding the scabbard. Indeed, there can be no doubt but that our behaviour had given them a mean opinion of our cour- age ; for they could nave but little no- tion of the ni dves of humanity that directed it. In consequence of the report I made to Captain Clerke of what I conceived to be the present temper and disposi- tion of the islanders, the most effect- ual measures were taken to guard against any attack they might make in the night. The boats were moored with top-chains ; additional sentinels were posted on both ships ; and gu.ard boats were stationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives from cutting the cables. During tlie night we ooserved a prodigious num- ber of lights on the hills, which made some of us imagine they were remov- ing Iheir eflecte back into the country [VoT.TTI.aV.CK.TT. in conseqi'dnce of our threats. But 1 ratluT Relieved them to have been the saf-ritices tliut were performing na at'Count of the war in which they iniagined themselves about to be en- gaged ; and most pro])al)ly the bodieu of our slain countrymen were at that time burning. We afterward saw fires of the same kind as we passed the Island of Morotoi, and which, we were told by some natives then on board, were made on account of the war they had declared iigainataneijj:li- bouring island. And this agrees with what we learned amongst the Friendly and Society Isles, that previous to any expedition against an enemy, the chiefs always endeavoured to animate and inflame the courage of the people by feasts and rejoicings in the ni^ht. We remained the whole night un- disturbed except by the bowlings Bnd lamentations which were heard on sliore ; and early the next morning, Koah came alongside the Resolution with a present of cloth and a small pig, which he desired leave to present to me. I have mentioned before that I was STipposed by the natives to be the son of Captain Cook ; and as he in his lifetime h*^,d always suffered them to believe it, I was probably considered &£ the chief after his death. As soon as I came on deck I questioned him about the body ; and, on his returning me nothing but evasive answers, I refuse»i to accept his presents, and was going to dismiss him with some expressions of anger and resentment, nad not Captain Clerke, judging it best at all events to keep up the appearance of friendship, thought it more proper that ho should be treated wiwi the usual respect. This treacherous fel- low came frequently to us during the course of the forenoon with some trifling present or other ; and a.s I always observed him eyeing every part of the ship with great attention, I took care he should see we were well prepared for our defence. He was exceedingly urgent both with Captain Gierke and myself to go on shore, laying all the blame of the detention of the bodies on the other chiefs, and aasuring w that every- RECOVERY OP PART OF COOK'S BODY. 341 i Fiaj. r/VF.J thin; might be settled to our satis- fiict'ju by a personal interview with Tfii'iceoboo. However, bis conduct 7.0^ too suspicious to make it pru.lt'ut to comply with t»iis request ; and, indeed, a fact came afterward ti» <>ur knowleil<,'o which proved the entire falsi.'bood of his ]»reteusiou3. Fur we were told that immediately after the action iu which Captain Cook was killed, the old King had retired to a cave in the steep part of the moun- tain that hangs over the bay, which was accessible only by the help of ropes, and where he remained for many days, having his victuals let down to him by cords. When Koah returned from the ships, we could perceive that his countrymen, who had been collected by break of day in vast crowds on the shore, thronged about him with great eagerness, as if to learn the intelli- gence he had acquired, and what was to be done in consequeuceof it. It is very probable that they expected we should attempt to put our threats in execu- tion ; and they seemed fully r;.rfclved to stond their ground. During the rhole morning we heard couches blowing in different parts of the coast ; large parties were seen march- ing over the hills ; and, in short, ap- pearances were so alarming that we carried out a stream anchor, to enable us to haul the ship abreast of the tow.i in case of an attack, and sta- tioned boats oli the north point of the bay to prevent a surprise from that quarter. The breach of their enijage- ment to restore the bodies of the slain, and the warlike posture in which they at this time appeared, occasioned fresh debates amongst us concerning the measures next to be pursued. It was at last determined that nothing should be sulicred to interfere with the repair of the mast, and the preparations for our depart- ure ; but that we should nevertheless continue our negotiations for the re- covery of the bodies. The greatest part of the day was taken up in getting the fore-mast into a proper situation on deck for the carpenters to work upon it, and in makiug the ntititsst>ar7 alterations in the commissions of the oflicers. The commnnd of the expe- dition having devolved upon Captain Gierke, he removed on board the Re- solution, appointed Lieutenant Gore to be captain of the Discovery, ard promoted Mr Harvey, a midshipman who had been with Captain Cook in his two hist voyagf , to the vacant lieutenancy. During the whole day we met with no interruption from the natives ; and at night the launch was again moored with a top-chain, and guaid boats stationed round both ships as before. About 8 o'clock, it being very dark, a canoe was lic-ard paddling toward the ship, and m soon as it was seen both the sentinels on deck fired into it. There were two persons in the canoe, and they immediately roared out "Tinnee" (which was the way in which they pronoimced my name), and said they were friends, and had something for me belonging to Cap- tain Cook. When they came on board, they threw themselves at our feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily neither of them was hurt, notwithstanding the balls of both pieces had gone through the canoe. One of them was the person whom I have before mentioned under the name of the taboo man, who constantly attended Captain Cook, with the cir- cumstances of ceremony I have already described, and who, though a man of rank in the island, could scarcely be hindered from performing the lowest offices of a menial servant. After lamenting with abundance of tears the loss of the "Orono," he told us that he had brought us a part of his body. He then presented to us a small bun solutely necessary, as the completing our supply of water would not admit of any longer delay. However, it must be observed, in justice to the conduct of Captain Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great numb ars of the natives and from the resolution with which they seemed to expect us, an attack could not have been made wiliiuut some danger ; and that the loss of ^ I IV. lOUl 30Ut US, that tUl lest Fe2. 1779.] very few men might have been severely felt by us during the remaining course of our voyage. Whereas the delaying the execution of our threats, though on the one hand it lessened their opinion of our prowess, had the effect of causing tliem to disperse on the other, lor this day, about noon, finding us persist in our inactivity, great bodies of them, after blowing thoir conches and using every mode of defiance, marched off over the hills, and never appeared afterward. Those, however, who remained were not the less daring and insolent. One man had the audacity to come witliin mus- ket shot, aliead of the ship ; and after slinging several stones at us, he waved Ca})tain Cook's hat over his head, whilst his countrymen on shore were exulting and encouraging his bold- ness. Our people were all in a flame at this insult, and coming in a body on thequarter-deck, begged thiy might no longer be obliged to put up with these repeated provocations, and re- a nested me to obtain permission for iem from Captain Clerke to avail themselves of the first fair occasion of revenging the death of their com- mander. On my acquainting him with what was passing, he gave orders for some great guns to be fired at the natives on shore, and promised the crew that if they should meet with any molestation at the watering-place the next day they should then be left at liberty to chastise them. It is somewhat remarkable that be- lore we could bring our guns to bear the islanders had suspected our inten- tions, from the stir they saw in the ship, and had retired behind their houses and walls. We were therefore obliged to fire, in some measure, at random ; notwithstanding which our shot produced all the efl'ects that could have been desired. For soon after we saw Koah paddling toward us with extreme haste, and on his arrival we learned that some people had been killed, and amongst the rest Maiha- maiha, a principal chief and a near relation of the King.^ Soon after the ^ The word "matee" is commonly STRANGE BEHAVIOUR OF TWO BOYS. tH3 arrival of Koah, two boys swam oil from the "morui" toward the ships, having each a long spear in his hand ; and after they had approached pretty near they began to chant a song in a very solemn manner, the subject of which, from their often mentioning the word **Orono" and pointing to the village where Captain Cook was killed, we concluded to be the late calamitous disaster. Having sung in a plaintive strain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the whole of which time they remained in the water, they went on board the Dis- covery and delivered their spears ; and after making a short stay returned on shore. Who sent them, or what was the object of this ceremony, we were never able to learn. At night, the usual precautions were taken for the security of the ships ; and as soon as it was dark our two friends who had visited us the night before came off again. They assured us that though the effects of our great guns this afternoon, had terrified the chiefs exceedingly, they had by no means laid aside their hostile inten- tions, and advised us to be on our guard. The next morning the boats of both shins were sent ashore for water; and the Disco veiy was warpea close to the beach in order to cover that service. We soon found that the intelligence which the priests had sent us was not without foundation ; and that the natives were resolved to take every opportunity of annoying us when it could be done without much risk. Throughout all this group of islands, the villages for the most part are situated near the sea, and the ad- jacent ground is enclosed with stone walls about three feet high. Theso we at first imagined were intended for the division of property ; but we now discovered that they served, and pro- used, in the language of these islands, to express either killing or wounding ; and we were afterward told that this chief had only received • •licrb*^ blow on the face from a stone whicn bfti been struck by one of the bal]&-r- Note in Original Edition. 344 COOK'S VOYAGES. ("^ov. III. B. V.Ch. IV. bably were nrlncipally dosignoKl, ilefence a«'!iinst invasioij. Tb('\ hi! m for a 'y con- sist of looso atoues, and the inhabitants are very dexterous in shifting tliom vath great (quickness to such situations as the direction of the attack may re- quire. In the sides of the mountain which hansH over the bay they have also little holes or caves of consider- able depth, the entrance of which is secured by a fence of the same kind. From behind both these defences the natives kept perpetually harassing our waterers with stones ; nor could the small force we had on shore, with the advantage of muskets, compel them to retreat. In this exjjosed situation our peof>le were so taken up in attending to their own safety, that, they employed the whole forenoon in fi 11 ing only one ton of water. As it was therefore inii)ossible to perform this service till their assail- ants were driven to a gi eater distance, the Discovery was ordered to dislodge them with her great guns ; which beinjj effected by a few discharges, the meu landed without molestation. However, the natives soon after made their appeaiance again in their usual mode 01 attack ; and it was now found absolutely necessary to burn down some straggling houses near the wall behind which they had taken shelter. In executing these orders I am sorry to add that our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty and devastation. Something ought cer- tainly to be allowed to their resentment of the repeated insults and contempt- uous behaviour of the islanders, and to the natural desire of revenging the loss of their conmiauder. But at the same time their conduct served strongly to convince me that the utmost precaution is necessary in trusting, though but for a moment, the discretionary use of arms in the hands of private seamen or soldiers on Buch occasions. The rigour of disci- pline and the habits of obedience by which their force is kept directed to its proper objects lead them naturally enough to conceive that whatever they have the power thev have also the righ t to do. Actual disobedience being almost the only crime for which they are accustomed to ex]>(ict punishment, they learn to consider it as the only measure of right and wrong ; and hence are apt to conclude that what they can do with impunity they may do with justice and hontjur. So that the feel- ings of humanity which are insepar- able from us all, and that generosity toward an unresisting enemy which at other times is the distinguishing mark of brave men, become but weak restraints to the exercise of violence when opposed to the desire they natur- ally have of showing their own inde- pendence and power. I have already mentioned that orders had been given to burn only a few straggling huts which afforded shelter to the natives. We were therefore a good deal surprised to see the whole village on fire ; and before a boat that was sent to stop the pro- gress of the mischief could reach the shore, the houses of our old and con- stant friends the priests were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illness that confined me on board this day. The priests had always been under n.y protection ; and unluckily the officers who were then on duty, having been seldom on shore at the "moral," were not much acquainted with the circumstances of the place. Had I been present myt.-.f, I might probably have been the means of sav- ing their little society from destruc- tion. Several of the natives were shot in making their escape from the flames ; and our people cut off the heads of two of them and brought them on board. The fate of one poor islander was much lamented by us all. As he was coming to the well for water he was shot at by one of the marines. The ball struck his calibash, wliich he immediately threw from him and fled. He was pursued into one of the cpves I have before described, and no lion could have defended his den with greater courage and fierceness ; till at last, after having kept two of our Eeoplo at bay for a considerable time, e expired, covered with wounds. It was this accident that first brought us acquainted with the ust; of thesf I P»b."i770.'j ftrrURN OF cuv«rns. At this time, an eldorly man was taken prisoner, bound, and sont on board in the same boat with the heads of his two cuuntrymen. I nover saw horror so strongly pictxu'ed a^ in the face of this man, nor so violent a transition to extravagant joy as when he wa? untied and told he might eo away in saloty. He showed us he did not want gratitude, as ho frequently afterward returned with presents of provisions, and also did us other services. Soon after the village was destroyed we saw coming down the hill a man attended by fifteen or twenty boys 'lolding pieces of white cloth, green boughs, plantains, kc, in their hands. I knew not how it ha])|)eued that this peaceful emba«»y, as soon as tJiey were mthin reach, received the fire of a party of our men. This, how- ever, did not stop them. They con- tinued their procession, and the ofiicer on duty came ux> in time to prevent a second discharge. As they approached nearer, it was found to be our much- esteemed friend Kaiieekeea, who had fled on our first setting fire to the village, and had now returned and desired to be sent on boaid the Ke- solntiou. When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thought- ful We endeavoured to make him understand the necessity we were under of setting fire to the village, by which his house and those of his brethren were unintentionally con- sumed. He expostulated a little mth us on our want of friendship and on our ingratitude. And indeed it was not till now that we learned the whole extent of the injury we had done them. He told us that, relying on the pro- mises I had made them, and on the assurances they had afterward receiv- ed from the men who had brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their effects back into the country with the rest of the inhabitants, but had put everything that was valuable of their own, as well as what they had collected from ns, into a house close to the " moral, " where they had the moi'tification to '(*ii ' that it waa not the want of ability to imniMli them which had hitherto inailo us tolerate their {irovocatious, desisted from giving us any further molesta- tion ; and in the evening a chief called Eappo, who had seldom visited us, but whom we knew to be a man of the very first conseiiuencc, came with presents from Teireeoboo to sue for peace. These presents were received, and he was dismissed with tiie same answer which had before been given, tliat until the remains of Captain Cook should be restored no peace would be granted. We learned from this person that the flesh of all the bodies of our people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been burned ; that the limb bones of the marines had been divided ^mongst the inferior chiefs ; and that those of Captain Cook had been disposed of in the following Aianner: the head, to a great chief called Kahoo-o])eon ; the hair, to Maia- mala ; and the legs, thighs, and arms, to Terreeoboo. After it was dark, many of the inhabitants came off with roots and other vegetables, and we also received two large presents of the same articles from Kaireekeea. The 19th Wiis chiefly taken up in sending and receiving the messages which passed between Captain Clerke and Terreeoboo. Eappo was very prussing that one of our ollioers should go on shore, and in the meantime oflured to remain as a hostage on board. This request, however, it was not thought proper to comply with ; and he left us with a promise of bringing the bones the next day. At the beach the waterers did not meet with the least opposition from the natives, who, notwithstanding our cautious behaviour, came amongst us again without the smallest a])pearance of diffidence or apprehension. Early in the morning of the 20th we had the satisfaction of getting the fore- mast stepped, it was an operation attended with great difficulty and some danger, our ropes beiiig so ex- ceedingly rotten that the purchase gave way several times. Between 10 and 11 o'clock we saw ^ ^at numbsr of people descending the hill which is over the beach in e kind of procession, each man carrying a sugar-cuno or two on his shoulders, and bread-fruit, "taro,"and plan- tains in his hand. They were nro- ceded by two drummers, who, when they came to the water-side, sat down by a white flag, and began to beat their drums, while those wlio had fol- lowed them advanced one by one; and, having deposited the presents they had brought, retired in the same order. Soon after, Eappo came in sight in his long feathered cloak, bearing something with great solem- nity in his hands ; and having ))laced himself on a rock, he made signs for a boat to be sent him. Captain Clerke conjecturing that he had brouglit the bon(!S of Captain Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himself in the pinnace to receive him, and ordered me to attend him in the cutter. When we arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace and delivered to the Cai>lain the bones, wrapped ui> in a large quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers. He afterward alteuded ns to the llesolution, but could not be prevailed upon to go ou board ; probably not choosing, from a sense of decency, to be present at the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known from a remarkable scar on one of them that divided the thumb from the forefinger the whole length of the metacarpal bone ; the skull, but with the scalp sejmrated from it, and the bones that form the face wanting ; the scalp, with the hair upon it cut short, and the ears adhering to it ; the bones o( both arms, with the skin of the fore- arms hangin» to them ; the thigh and leg bones joined together, but with- out the feet. The ligaments of the joints were entire, and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and were cut in several places and crammed with salt, apparently with an intention of pre- serving them. The scalp had a out in the back part of it, but the skull li m e "Ting luleis, pluu< e mo- whcn down o beat ad fol. fn. 1779.] LOOK'S REMAINS COMMITTtlD TO THK DKKP. .'{47 was fr«o ftom any fracture. Tho lower jfiw aud foL't, whirh wert* waiitiiif^, KisplK) told us bad been bfi/id by dif- ferent chiefs, aud that Turroeoboo waa using every means to rei-over them. The next uioruiiig Eupiw ami tlic King's son cuute on board, and brought with them the remaining bouos of Ca|»tain Cock, the barrels of his gun, his shoes, aud some other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took great pains to convince us that Terreooboo, Maiha-uutiha, and him- self were most heartily desirous of peace ; that they had given ua the most convincing proof of it in their power ; and that they had been pre- vented from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still our enemies. He liuiiented with the greatest s(roceeding8 should reach the islands to leewai'd before us it might have a bad effect, gave orders to unmoor. About eight in the evening we dismissed all the natives, and Eappo and the friendly Kaireekeea tf.'ok an aHectionate leavw of us. We immediately weighed and stood out of the bay. The natives were collected on the shore in great numbers, and as we passed along, received our last farewells with every mark of alToction and goodwill. CONCLUSION. [Nothing now remains but to give an outline of the last twenty-one months' voyage of the Resolution and Discovery, until their arrival in Eng- land in October 1780; and, as before, the synopsis has been taken from the Cabinet CyclojKedia, " Maritime and Inland Discovery," vol. iii., pp. 86- 92.] " After leaving Owhyhee, the ships touched at the Island of Atooe, which was found desolated by a war origi- nating in the claims of different chiefs to tho goats which Captain Cook had put on shore. Those animals had in- creased to six when the war broke out on their account, in the course of which they were all destroyed. The histoiy of the introduction of useful animals into the South Sea Islands affords many parallel instances of human blindne.ss, and of that bsirbgf - 1 . ■), if 348 0U8 dcyroe of euvy aiul rajmnity wliich s, I am confident, did not fall short of £2000 sterling; and it was generally supposed that at least two-thirds of the ([uantity wo had originally got from the Americans were spoiled and worn out, or had been given away, or otherwise disposed of in Kamtschatka. AVhen, in addition to these facta, it is remembered that the furs were at first collected without our having any idea of their real value; that tht greatest part had been worn by the Indians from whom we pmchased them ; that they were afterwards pre- ^rved with little care, and frequently 1770.] OOOK'S MEFUTS AS A us'-d for liodclothos mid poses; nnd that jirobaKlv we othor pur- iiii'l imt got the full value for tlioia in Cliin.i; the ndv.'intftfjcs that might be derived from a voyage to that part of tho American copat. undertaken with commercial views, appeared to me of a dc^'rce of importance sufEciont to call for the attention cf the y»uMic..' These observationsof Lieutenant King jtoint to that which eve.itually proved to bo the most important re.sult of this expedition. A great bra»^ch of trade in the Pacific Ocean, which had hitherto escajted tho notice of ihe nations most interested in its devei- opment, and possessing establish- ments most conveniently situated for carr3'ing it on, was .suddenly dis- covered, and soon after vigorously jirosecuted by a maritime people from the opposite side of the globe. The crews of both ships were astonished, as well as overjoyed, at the j»rice paid them for their furs by the Chinese; and thoir rage to return to Cook's River, in order to procure a cargo of skins, proceeded at one time almost to mutiny. A few, indeed, contrived to desert, and were among the first atlvcnturers who crossed the Pacific Ocean in the newly discovered fur trade. The seamen thns unexpect- edly enriched soon underwent a total metamorphosis; they arrived at Slacao in rags, many of them having incon- siderately sold their clothing in the South Sea Islands; but, before they left that harbour, they were decked oxit in gaudy silks and other Chinese finery. Nothing of importance oc- curred during the remainder of their voyage home; and on the 4th of October, the ships arrived safe at the Nore, after an absence of four years, two months, and twenty- two days. In the whole course of the voyage the liosolution lost but five men by sickness, of whom three were in a firecarions state of health when the expedition left England ; the Dis- covery did not lose a man " In order to estimate the merits of Captain Cook, it will be only neces- wury to survey generally the extent DISCO VEUKR. 34i» and nature of his (liH0ov«»n»*«, ami to examine what iiilluonce tiny exerted immediately on the comniorcial en- terprise of nations. In the extent of tlio coasts which ho surveyed or dis- covpHid, he far surpasses eveiy other navigiitor. Tho e.nstern coast of New Holland, 2000 miles in extent, wivs totally unknown till he traced it ; escaping from tho dsingers of that in- tricate navigation solely by his cool intrepidity and tho resources of his skill. Ho also circumnavigated New Zealand, the eastern and southern parts of which were quite unknown, nnd supposed by many to be united to the Terra Australis Incognita. New Caledonia and Norfolk Island were both discovered by him ; nnd tho Now Hebrides, from his labours, first as- sumed a definite shape in our maps. He rendered an essential service to geography also by his circumnavigat- ing the globe in a high southern lati- tiule ; for, though the exertions and dangers of that dilficult navigation were not repaid hy any brilliant dis- coveries, it set at rest a question which had for ages divided the opinions of speculative geogray»hers. Sandwich Land, or Southern Thule, maybenum- V)ercd among his discoveries, although it is probably the land which Gemtz had descried a century before. " His discoveries ou the north-west coast of America were still more im- portant and more extensive. In ono voyage, he elTected more than tho Spanish navigators had been able to accomplish in the course of two cen- turies. In sailing through Behring's Strait, ho derermined the proximity of Asia and America, which Behring himself had failed to perceive ; and he assigned the coast of tho Tshuktzki to its true place, which, in many maps of his time, was placed some degrees too far to the westward. " It is needless to recapitulate here the large additions which he made to our knowledge of the groups of islands scattered through tho Pacific Ocean. Some of the Society and Friendly Islands were known before his time ; but he carefully surveyed those archi' p«»lagoes. «n«* fixed the positions of tho I ' PBO chief islandd, rach as Otaheite and Ton^talioo, with an accuracy equal to that of a European observntory. He prided himself especially on hav- ing discovered the Sandwich Islands, and there is no good reason to refuse him that honour ; for even if it be J:ruo thot a Spanish navigator, named Gali, discovered those islands in 1576, and that he gave to Owhyhee the name of Mesa or Table Mountain, which is marked in old Spanish char^ - twenty- two dv^grees to tne west of the Sand- wich Islands, but in the same latitude with them ; yet no stress can be laid on a discovery from which mankind derived no knowKdge. The Spaniards seem soon to i)ave totally forgotten the Sandwich Islands, if they ever knew them, notwithstanding the advan- tages which they might have derived from those islands in their frequent voyages from New Spain to Manilla. Anson and many other navigators might have been spared infinite dis- ti'ess and suffering in their voyages •cross the Pacific had anything cer- tain been known of the existence and rituation of the Sandwich Islands. "But Cook's merit is not more conspicuous in the extent of his dis- coveries, than in the correctness with which he laid down the position of every cofist of which he caught a glimpse. His surveys afford the materials of accurate geography. Ho adopted in practice every improvement su^ested oy Uie progress of science ; and instead of committing errors amounting to two or three degrees of longitude, like most of his predecessors, his determinations were such as to be considered accurate even at the present day. Nor w.is this the merit of the astronomers who accompanied him on his expeditions. He was himself a skilful observer, and at the same time so vigilant and indefatigable, that no opportunity ever escaped him of ascertaining his tnie place. He possessed in an emi- nent degree the sagacity peculiar to seamen ; and in his conjectures re- specting the configurations of coasts he very rarely erred. La Perouse, who was a highly accomplished sea- man, always mentions the name of COOK'S VOYAGES. [Vot. III. CoNOLtrsiow. Cook with the warmest admiration, and freqvicntl/ alludes to the re- mark?.ble corre;tn«s3 of his surveys. Crozct, also, %bo wrote the narrative of Marion's voyage, speaking of Cook's survey of the shores of New Zealand, says — • That its exactness and mir ute- ness of detail astonished him beyond expression ; ' but Cook's skill as a marine surveyor may be still better estimated from the chart which, at the commencement of his career, he constructed of the coasts of Newfound- land ; and of that chart, Captain Frederick Bullock, the able oflBcer who has recently completed the survey of Newfoundland, speaks in those terms of warm commendation which a man of ability naturally bestows on what- ever is excellent. ** From the second expedition of Cook may be dated the art of preserv- ing the health of the seamen in long voyages. Before that time, navigatora who crossed the Pacific hurried preci- titately by the shortest course to the ladrones or the Philippine Islands ; and yet they rarely reached home without the loss of a large proportion of their crew. Cook, on the other hand, felt himself perfectly at home on the ocean ; ha did not care to limit bis voyages either in space of time or of distance ; he sailed through every climate, crossing both the arctic and antarctic circles ; and proved that a voyage of four years' duration does not necessarily affect the health of seamen. This was a discovery of far greater importance than that of a new continent could have been. By his banishing the terror that arose from the frij^htful mortality that previously attended on long voyages, he has mainly contributed to the boldness of navigation which distinguishes the present day. " Among the immediate effects of Captain Cook's voyages, the most im- portant was the establiahment of a colony at Botany Bay. That great navigator seems to have contracteAl a partiality towards the New Zea- landers ; he admired their generosity, This was published in 1831. ir7».] THE their manly carriage, and their intelli- gence. Their country appeared to him fertile; abounding in commodities which might become valuable in com- merce ; and he hints, though with diffidence, at the possibility of a trade being carried on between Europe and New Zealand. His observations on this subject had influence, no doubt, on the minds of the English ministers, ard they resolved on establishing a colony at New Holland ; and the re- sult has justified Cook's sanguine an- ticipations. ^ The fur trade also, which 9oon caused such a concourse of Euro- pean shipping in the Pacific Ocean, * Infinitely more so, in this third .\tiftTfi«r of the lineteenth century. END. 351 originated with this third voynge ; but his familiarity with the South Sea Islanders, the trade which be estab- lished with them, and the practice which he commenced of purchasing sea stores from them, have had, per- haps, a still stronger influence on navigation in the Pacific. " Finally, to complete the eulogium on this groat navigator, it will be sufficient to enumerate some of the dis- tinguished seamen who served under him, such as Vancouver, Bronghton, Bligh, Burney, Colnctt, Portloi-k, Dixon, &c. ; these men learned under Cook the arduous duties of their pro- fession, and they always spoke of him with unqualified admintion and respect." Printed by Morrison & Gibs Limited Edinburgh