IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 3.2 == .i^ III (0 3 IM |||M 120 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 — ^ 6" — ► Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ '^^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 r<^ Canadian y V W^.. i-- #? ^ ///// L^*- /!<'. i/x fA J CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographicially unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommag6e □ Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pellicul6e D Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ 0- Cartes g6ographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) □ Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur n n n Bujnd with other material/ Reiid avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serrde peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int6rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se pout que certaines pages blanches ajout^es lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela dtait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 film^es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl6mentaires: L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mdthode normale de filmage sont indiqu6s ci-dessous. □ Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur D Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur^es et/ou pellicul6es Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es, tachet^es ou piqu6es Pages detached/ Pages ddtach^es Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of print varies/ Quality indgale de I'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel supplementaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 filmies d nouveau de fapon d obtenir la meilleure image possible. □ This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 2SX 30X / The copy fill to the gener Metro Canad The images possiole con of the origin filming cont Original cop beginning w the last pag« sion, or the other origini first page w sion, and en or illustratec The last rec( shall contair TINUED "), whichever a Maps, plates different red entirely incli beginning in right and to| required. Th method: 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X 9mplaire . Les details uniques du jvent modifier It exiger une lie de filmage »d/ 6es oxed/ i piqu^es iai/ nentaire ured by errata refiimed to »/ )llement ata, une pelure, J de fa^on d sible. 30X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Metropolitan Toronto Library Canadian Hiittory Department The images appearing here are the best quality possiole considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol ^^> (meaning "CON- TINUED "), or the symbol y (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: 1 2 3 L'exemplaire filmi fut reproduit grAce d la g6n6rosit6 de: Metropolitan Toronto Library Canadian History Department Les images suivantes ont 6td reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de l'exemplaire film^, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim^e son* film6s en commen^ant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmds en commenqant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dernidre image de chaque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ". le symbols y signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds i des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est filmd d partir de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 -^ \ :' I :r i t » 'I ir< 1 5 Canada's OUVENIR Cities, Lakes and Rivers '^1y'>-^1^<^'1^'^y>'!^^S<^1y^^'S'^<>^^(y^1^'j^'^'j^ The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company. / 'h , '.» AMERICA'S SCENIC LINE The Richelieu & Ontario Owning and operating the greatest Line of Steamers on inland waters .... Navigation Co. 800 MILES OF LAKES, RIVERS AND RAPIDS. From Toronto to Montreal, Quebec p^'^the Far-famed Saguenay rassiTijj through the charming scenery of the Thousand Islands and the world-renowned Rapids of the St. Lawrence. :►<: TORONTO-MONTR EAL LINE V!? ^"^ ' °".?r"^ %;^py^,?"; — .^— — — ^— ^^— ^— — — ^-^^^ Corsican, Passport and Al- gerian," leaving Toronto daily (Sundays excepted) at 2 p.tn.. arriving at Mont- real 6.30 p.m. the following day, calling at Bownianville, Port Hope, Cobourg, Kingston, Clayton, Round Island, Thousand Island Park, Alexandria Hay, Brockville, Prescott and Cornwall, and connecting at Montreal with steamers for Quebec and the Saguenay. This service will commence about June the 1st and end September 30th. KI NGSTON-MONT REAL LINE ;,^«1""; '^» ^"^ Bohemian — ^^■^— ^— ^^^— ^^^^— — ^-^— — ^^^ Those steamers are in addition to the regular line from Toronto and leave Kingston daily (except Sunday) at 5.15 a.m., making connections with Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific Rail- ways at Kingston, and Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg at Clayton, calling at Round Island, Thousand Island Park and Alexandria Bay, arriving at Montreal at 6.30 p.m., and m-iking close connections with steamers for Quebec and the Saguenay. MONTREAL-Q UEB EC LINE ^l^f palatial iron steamers "Quebec" — 2^^ and "Montreal" leaving Montreal daily (Sundays excepted) for Quebec and calling at intermediate ports, reaching Quebec the following morning. MO NTREAL-SAGUENAY LIN E composed of the magnificent iron _^— ^-^^^^^^— ^^^^^^^— ^^— ^-— — steamers Carolina, ' Canada and the "Saguenay," the two former leaving Montreal Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, upon the arrival of the Western Steamers, for the Saguenay without change. The steamer "Saguenay " leaves Quebec on Wed- t?esdays and Saturdays at 7.30 a.m. for the Saguenay, calling at usual ports, the three steamers forming a daily line between Quebec and the Saguenay. lid ickctS and informat'on may be obtained from the principal Railway ► and Ticket Offices throughout the United States and Canada. Staterooms can be secured upon application to J. F. DOLAN. No. 2 KINQ STREET EAST. TORONTO. ONT. H. FOSTER CHAFFEE. 128 ST. JAMES St., MONTREAL. QUE. J. MCCONNIFF. WINDSOR HOTEL. MONTREAL. QUE. L. H. MYRAND, QUEBEC. QUE. ALEX. MILLOY, Traffic Manager. CHABOT, W. F. General Mana er. CLONEY, Passenger Agent. N. K. CONNOLLY, President. General Offices : 228 St. Paul Street, Montreal. •WVv -V. «1 * ( Beauties of the St. Lawrence. THE TOURIST'S IDEAL TRIP ;K The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's Steamers. «■ * MAISONNEUVE MONUMENT. |T is strange that people rush away across the Atlantic to enjoy the mountain glories of Switzerland, or the rugged grandeurs of the historic and castellated Rhine, while within a few hours of their homes, here upon the American continent, in the Dominion of Canada, are to be found scenes of interest and wonder, as well as of instruction and amusement, far surpassing the vaunted attractions of old Eu- rope. Any person who would read the beauti- fully illustrated souvenir books of Canadian cities, cannot fail to feel that there is not, perhaps, in the world to-day a more attractive trip than that of the St. Lawrence, the Thousand Islands, the famous rapids, Montreal, Quebec and the celebrated Saguenay River. We have but short space at our disposal, still we purpose drawing the attention of the public to a few of the most interesting facts connected with these places, and to some of the most striking features in the unsurpassed scenery of the land through which we invite the reader to hurry with us. We say hurry, for we can but mention a few of the beauties that crowd in on the view from the time we embark on one of the Richelieu Company's splendid steamers at Toronto, until a landing is made at Quebec, the Gibraltar of America. The steamer keeps closely to the north shore of Lake Ontario all the way from Toronto to Kingston, a distance of over one hundred and fifty miles, and as our staunch boat glides quickly over the placid waters of this, the most 2 The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's beautiful of all the great chain of lakes; the cool, invigorating breezes, and the town-dotted shore line ever in view, add to the enjoyment of a trip that will long be remembered as one of the best " outings " to be had on the American continent. \t the foot of the lake, where the majestic St. Lawrence begins, is that famous old lime- stone city, Kingston, with its Martello towers, its Military College, its magnificent public buildings and beautiful homes. A day might well be spent there, but we must hasten on, for an all-day sail of /'•5V, NIAGARA FALLS. Souvenir of Canadiaa Scenery. reezes, lyment :ings" ; lake, [ lime- oUege, might sail of .,r-'<''W^^''^^'' '"^'c,:. A GROUP OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. unusual interest and keenest de- light lies before us in the de- scent of the noble river. For forty miles, of the hundred and sixty from Kingston to Montreal, the path of the steamer is through the labyrinthine windings of the far-famed Thousand Islands. These are scattered over the bosom of the river with a prodigality which Nature has hardly elsewhere shown, id which is equalled only by variety, in size, form, color and general aspect, of the islands themselv'-s. In number, they are reckoned to exceed 1,750, the largest being some hundred acres in extent, the smallest, a mere speck of verdure- clad rock, crowned, it may be, by a single tree, proudly reflecting its autumnal glory in the gleaming expanse of the lake. From the deck of the Richelieu Company's steamers the tra- veller has a glorious opportunity of becoming acquainted with the beauties, the ever changing, kaleidoscopic attractions of that won- ful natural panorama. At times the speed of the vessel is slackened in order to afford the tourist ample time to drink in all the glories of the ever shifting scene. Now and again the steamer runs past a timber raft, and the fire in the "cookerie," the smoke over the "camboose," the bending oars, the singing raftsmen, all contribute to the novelty of the picture. He hears snatches of the Canadian boat songs, the characteristic beguilement of the voyageur, as he "poles" his raft or bends, with rhythmic meas- ure to the dripping oar. Very musical _ are those old Norman and Breton chansons, — though rude are their couplets. * • . 4 T/u' Richelieu & Ontario A\ivi,i>ation Compayiy' s To the lover of Nature, in her placid moods and restful tran- quillity, we are not sure that the intrusion of the thousands who now gather at the several great denominational camps on the Island THOUSAND ISLAND SCENERY. Parks in the vicinity of Alexandria Bay, will by any means be an attraction. But man is a social animal. In the main, he loves a crowd and high excitements, with proximity to hotel comforts and even luxuries. So the vogue has to be fallen in with, though the excite- ment, we should imagine, must pall, and the temptation soon assert .. ( IN THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. I tran- s who Island Soiivcnif of Canadian Sroirry. 5 its force, to steal away to the repose and beauty of the many delight- ful sylvan retreats in the ([uieter parts of the river. Meanwhile the afternoon sun finds our steamer unconsciously increasing her pace, as she nears the rapids, and excitement among all on board arises as the traveller feels the novel sensation of "going down hill by .. s be an a crowd id even excite- a assert A STREET IN TORONTO. water." These descents in the bed of the St. Lawrence are, like descents in the bed of other rivers, no scientific marvel ; but it is a marvel, and an exhileration of more than usual novelty, to sweep down them, not in a canoe, but in a large and densely crowded steamer. But while there is the maximum of excitement, there is, 6 The Riilu'Ucu & Ontario Navij>aiioH Company s we believe, the luinimum of danger, though the experience is ofteti trying to the nerves, especially when the steamboat makes a lurch in the chaotic waters and a volume of spray is dashed in the faces of the thrilled voyagers. Nor are the nervous reassured by a glance at the extra-manned wheel-house, and from that to the foam-lashed avenues of waters, down which the vessel speeds as if to certain destruction. The situation becomes more thrilling with the descent of the rapids nearer to Montreal. These increase in violence in their headlong course down the river, while the danger seems to A VIEW ON THE ST. LAWRENCE, FROM THE STEAMER'S DECK. become more appalling as the channel is hidden in spraj'. At last, comes a return to still water — that is, still in comparison with the maelstrom from which the vessel has emerged. Proceeding onward we catch sight of that modern structure, the Canadian Pacific Railway Bridge, which spans the St. Lawrence at Lachine and connects the Canadian Pacific Railway with Montreal. This bridge illustrates in a striking manner the change that has taken place in engineering methods of bridge building since the erection of the Victoria Bridge. It is constructed on the cantilever prmc to th mun . * , SoKzriiir of Ca>iadian Scciicn'. often lurch ICC'S of glance ashed •ertain escent nee in nis to t last, th the re, the ice at itreal. it has ■e the ilever !■ CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY IIKIDUB, LACHINH. principle ; its light, airy, seemingly fragile spans offer no resistance to the wind, and combine the minimum of weight with the maxi- mum of stability. This bridge gives Montreal an alternative trans- VirTORIA BRIDGE. G. T. R., MONTREAL. The Richelieu & Ontario A\rvi,i^atio)i Company s continental route by rail, and confirms the c o m - manding po- sition of the city as an entrepot at the head of ocean navig- ation for the commerce of the East and West. A little farther on we recognize at a glance the celebrated Victoria Bridge, one of the greatest, if not the greatest engineering feat of the age, connect- ing the Grand Trunk Railway with the Island of Montreal and the south shore of the St. Lawrence. It is built of iron on the tubular principle. There are two long abutments and twenty-four piers of solid masonry. The length of the bridge is two miles. The tube through which the railway track is laid is twenty-two feet high and sixteen wide. The total cost of the structure was $6,300,000. It is the creation of the same genius that spanned the Menai Straits, Robert Stephen.son and A. M. Ross having been the engineers who planned this great work. To look from one of the openings in the SllOOTINi; THE LACHINE RAI'IDS — I'AST. 9 centr far b burst the n away one carrK gram ' ^-m INOIAN \ILLA(;E of CAIHIHNAWAC.A, OIM'OSITK LACHINE. From Harp« dian once flooi goiv so f edif Ion J tion 55 " Souvenir of Canadian Scenery. 9 centre piers on to the St. Lawrence rushing past in one grand stream far below, sweeping under the bridge in eddies and whirlpools, or bursting into spurts of angry foam as it strikes the sharp edges of the masonry, — to look along the sides of the iron tube, which tapers away at each end in the distance till it seems a mere rod of metal, one cannot but be astounded, not only how such a design was carried out, but how it could ever have been conceived as practicable. Our interest increases as the fair, royal city of Montreal comes grandly into view. Froon H«rp«r*k Mj^^vuiit.- v.'oi>vrlght, 18«l, by Harjiur it. tiothan. A RICIIELIEf STEAMEK SHOOTING THE I.ACHINE RAPIDS— PRESKhJT. Montreal, the City of de Maisonneuve, the Hochelaga of the In- dian, the commercial metropolis of Canada to-day, nestles, or rather, once nestled, between the foot of majestic Mount Royal and the giant flood of the still more majestic St. Lawrence. It was so in days gone past, but in our time the city has so expanded, its avenues have .so far .stretched in all directions, save to the southward, its ri.sing edifices have so usurped the surrounding country, that nestle is no longer the expression ; we should say that it crowds its huge propor- tions in between river and mountain and bursts out towards the east lii < Z O o at X y. o - 1 • 1 • and Mou • I* est I driv ' i' rour that . 1 . O X o 'A' ai o Souvenir 'of Canadian Scenery. i '. and west, running riot into the adjoining districts. It is from the Mountain Park, upon the summit of Mount Roj'al, one of the grand- est parks on the continent, led up to by one of the most charming drives in the world, that the best coup d'veil of the cit}- and its sur- roundings is to be obtained. While awaiting the palace-like steamer, that will carry us forth, this evening, upon the waters of yonder mighty flood, and bear us seaward to Quebec, let us, from the top of the mountain, pause and catch a glimpse of the panorama before i^s. MOUNT ROYAL PARK DRIVE. Beneath our feet, and spreading out upon all sides, in grand and solid proportions, with broad-paved avenues, maple-adorned streets, brilliant squares, open parks, hundreds of spires, cupolas and domes, and high above all, rising conspicuously, the huge towers of Notre Dame and the colossal form of St. Peter's, we be- hold the Montreal of to-day. Montreal with its wealth and its poverty, its grandeur and its beauty, its wonderful paintings, its museums, galleries and libraries ; Montreal with its banks, its vast warehouses, its rush and noise ; Montreal, in all its attractions, is there before us, not a sound ascending from its life-filled streets, not I • 12 The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's iliii (the centuhyJ a move perceptrble in that endless hive of human indus- try. Away beyond the din and clatter, the dust and flurry, we can calmly count the objects of attraction, and our guide-book, " Illustrated Montreal," tells us the his- torical event connected with every temple and edifice. Away to the right run the two picturesque roads to La- chine, and between is the famed canal, where the steam- ers ascending, seem to be run- ning on dry land, while, from the distance, the world-re- nowned rapids appear within a stone's throw of the canal boats. Lower down, like a huge leviathan of the prehistoric epochs, THV, ciTAUKi. yr]';iii';c. \ '1 •i- < 1 I « Souvenir of Canadian Scenery. 13 (% in that 1 indus- the din St and • count on, and jstrated he his- id with ce. run the to La- is the I steam - be run- le, from trld-re- l boats, epochs, /(•* stretched fully across the broad St. Lawrence, pier after pier, and span after span, the great Victoria Bridge flings its huge proportions, its diminishing tail touching the shore at St. Lambert and its mon- ster head swallowing up a train that rushes from St. Cunegonde into its iron jaws. And lower still we behold St. Helen's Island, once famed as a military stronghold, now a gem-like park, within a few acres of the vast wharv'es. Over its magazine-crowned hil- locks, we catch a glimpse of the slender and elegant spire of the Longueuil church, one of the finest in Canada, and the blue back of towering Belceil Mountain, the summer resort, f>ar excellence, of Montreal's citizens. Broader grows the St. Lawrence, and faintly distant appear the sparkling steeples of Vareiuies and Boucherville, as they scintillate in the beams of the setting sun. Yonder, between the two temples, like the Pillars of Hercules at the entrance of an- other Mediterranean, comes a dark object with its curling column of smoke. It is an ocean steamer ploughing its way against the mighty force of the current. It reminds us that away down the river, in the regions which that vessel passed, other scenes and other events await our coming. From our eyrie-like outlook we take one more part- ing glance at the city of the Royal Mountain, and then, in the sheets of glory that the setting sun has flung around the blue summits, between the two grand cemeteries of the city, we descend into the life and noise of the world below, we drive along the clean and man- sion-adorned streets, on towards the wharf. There we go on board a really floating palace, and in a few moments are seated upon deck, looking back at the mountain, the city, the sleeping ocean steamers and the imposing iron structure of the Victoria Bridge. At seven o'clock our magnificent palace steamer, "Montreal," " Quebec " or " Carolina," swings out majestically from the wharf, W^^: H The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's and in a few moments we are glid- ing past Hochclaga and approach- ing Longue Pointe. We look back, and the monster bridge is disap- pearing behind St. Helen's Island, the sun has gone down beyond Mount Royal, the top of that vast upheaval giows bluer and darker, the city's form be- comes less and less distinct : but still high over every- thing, rise the twin towers of Notre Dame, and from them, as daylight fades away, out upon the waters comes the solemn rumble of the ' ' Great Bourdon," like the peal of distant thun- der re-echoed in the caverns of the north and wafted out upon the bosom of the Arctic Sea. In another half hour Mont- real is lost in the distance, and we turn towards the prow, as our good steamer cuts her \\z.y through the crests of wavelets and dashes foam for a hundred yards on either side. Gradually the evening shades thicken as we plough past bay and promontory, church spire and hamlet, as we meet the crafts of every kind from the lumbering barge to the ocean greyhound, and silence falls upon the ever changing scene. " It was on such an evening that we once entered upon the heaving bosom of Lake St. Peter, that immense expansion of the St. Lawrence, midway be- tween Montreal and Quebec." What an evening that was. Behind us the receding shores of the great river, before us that immense lake, where the descending waters commence their first struggle with the fringes of the Atlan- KANDUM SKETCHES OF QUEBEC. V>*i^ I m \ daylight ■ay, out waters :" Great lilt thuu- he north n of the Lir Mont- we turn nier cuts slets and tier side. 1 as we rch spire from the i silence 1 such an Lake St. iway be- shores of iscending le Atlan- SoHvemr of Canadian Scenery 15 tic's tide. To us, as to Chateaubriand, "it seemed as if the Almighty were bending over the abyss of th(; sky, staying with one hand the sun as it descended in the west, rai.sing the moon with the other, in the east, and lending, throughout all immensity, an attentive ear to prayers of the humble peasants, summoned by the tinkle of the little bell that comes to us from yonder hamlet." There is some- thing surpassingly grand in the passage across Lake St. Peter. By midnight we retire for a few hours repose. At dawn we are again on deck, for, as the sun that set last night behind Mount Royal appears this morning over the battlements of old Levis, our steamboat plashes past New Liverpool on the one side, and Sillery on the other, while away above Wolfe's Cove, upon the historic Plains of Abraham, is to be seen the monument that stands upon the spot where that heroic leader fell. The number of ves.sels riding at anchor in mid-stream, or loading timber in the coves, the dark frowning rocks, the seemingly inaccessible heights, the houses of ancient build huddled along the narrow strips of shore at the bottom of the cliff, the grey walls and sombre citadel, all tell, in the lan- guage of silent eloquence, that we are nearing Quebec. In a few moments we round the great head of Cape Diamond, and the ancient city of Cliamplain appears before us in all its picturesqueness and antiquated attractions. " See Naples and die," is an Italian saying ; " See Quebec and live " would be more appropriate. Let us at once land, and through narrow, winding streets, up mountainous hills, between rows of ancient looking structures we climb, for half a mile, until we reach the most magnificent promenade in the world, the Dufferin Terrace. Higher still, if you like, we will work our way up to the foot of the hoar}' old citadel, and there look down upon a .scene that cannot be duplicated, either in the Old World or in the New. Beneath us is Quebec, an historical hyphen, a connecting link between the days of the old le^inie ,y _ , and the present. All the memory -haunted scenes of a glorous past, in panoramic succession, sweep before our gaze. Under our view are the antique gables, the peculiar OLD STAIKWAV FROM ,WOLK COVE TO THE HEIGHTS OP ABRAHAM, QUEBEC. I i6 The Richelieu & Ontario Navif^atiou Company s I roofs, the quaint spires and the historic walls that transport us one hundred years into the past ; side l)y side with them, the grand structure of Laval, the new Parliament Buildings, the renovated gates, the Court House and all these modern edifices that tell of nineteenth century advancement and civilization. Once more we take our guide-book, " Illustrated Quebec," in hand and commence a leisurely survey of the picture before us. Every stone in the walls of Quebec has a history, and every spot of ground is rendered sacred by the souvenirs of the past. Behind us rise the grey walls of the ancient citadel and immedi- ately under us is the city with it strange confusion of b'tild- ings, all cast, as it were, at random up- on the declivities of a mountain and tum- bling down in wild confusion to the shores of the great river below. We do not propose going into any details as to the peculiar his- torical attractions of Quebec; we will take a rapid glance at the scene before us, and then proceed on our hurried trip towards the Saguenay. Quebec, in many ways, surpas.ses Na- ples for beauty of scenery ; it is an- other Heidelberg, if viewed from the standpoint of ancient buildings and medi- eval aspect ; it is a CALECHK DRIVING, yUEBEC. \ Souvenir of Canadian Scenery. 17 second Gibraltar, if considered as an impregnable fortress ; it is a Dubliti and Paris combined, if considered from a social point of view. In fact, it is a unique city, standing alone in all the world as a bond between the days that are and the days gone by. Looking away beyond the churches and monuments, the ram- parts and gates, we behold a picture that no pencil could delineate and no poet could de- scribe. Over the heights of Levis, and above its frow- ning fortifica- tions, rises the summer sun ; his beams gild the spires of a hundred his- toric build- ings, each with a .story that might be the basis of a real romance. Still looking to the right, the Isle of Orleans divides the waters of the {^t. Lawrence, and looks up to the citadel as a child to a protecting parent. Then across the stream " Where yonder mountains cracked And sundered by volcanic fire, Sings Montmorency's cataract ; Fit chord for such a granite lyre." Then the long thin village of Beauport stretches its serpentine length along the shore and basks in the rays of the rising sun. Beyond the Beauport Flats arise the blue Laurentians, mound over mound, till they blend with a few fleecy clouds upon the distant horizon. From out the forests and fields glances the steeple of the Charlebourg church, a hamlet with a history of its own ; behind this again appears the more humble but still more interesting chapel of the Indian village of Lorette. Lorette, the home of the Huron, the last resting place of that warrior tribe as its braves disappear like the snow before the sun of civilization. Of yore. The Huron of Lorette ST. LOUIS GATE, gUEllEC. i8 The Richelieu & Ontario Navii^alion Company s i treated with Montcalm, and fired his arrows at the invader ; to-day the old chief sits at his door and teaches the rising generation to shoot arrows at the cop- pers and silver pieces that the traveller sets up ♦o test their skill. Still turning westward , we no- tice the sinuosities of the St. Charles, as it rolls through green meadows down to us continence with the St. Lawrence. Yonder is the "Monu- ment of the Brave ' ' on the St. Foye Road, be- side it is a Martello tow- er, nearer still is the Wolfe Shaft on the Plains ; scenes once glorious and terrible in the [days of immemor- able conflict. But if we linger too long in our contemplation of old Stadacona, we may risk encroaching upon the tour- ist's guide and charming souvenir book "Illustrated Quebec" — and we might miss the Saguenay boat that is about to leave the wharf below. Let us take a time- honored caleche and drive down Mountain Hill to the landing. Keep your breath as the peculiar vehicle dances down the incline plane of the main street from the Upper to the Lower Town, and close your eyes, unless you are accustomed to trapeze exercise or balloon ascensions. At last, heaven be praised ! our jehu dismissed, we are safely on board the Saguenay River palace steamboat, and are bid- ding farewell to the city of historic memories. One more glanoe at the frowning citadel and we turn our faces seaward. Leaving the Island of Orleans to our right, we glide along past villages, pointed spires, towering hills and on towards the Cape of Torments. Montmorency, like a snow-white curtain, drops its two hundred feet of folds and prismatic fringes over the rock formations. Chateau Richer appears in the distance, and the mind's eye can catch a glimpse of the armed guards of France's famed Intendant, as MONTMCtENCI FALLS they arou acce! Ann look: Ther else greei at Bi past Gros pie s Over \ Souvenir of Canadian Scenery «9 to-day ion to le cop- pieces iets up Still weno- , of the t rolls cadows tluence ivrence. ' Monu- ve " on )ad, be- llo tow- ill aft on ous and imemor- y in our :ona, we the tour- souvenir aguenay : a time- landing, e incline and close r balloon d, we are . are bid- glanoe at long past : Cape of >s its two rmations. eye can :ndant, as they hover about the nieinory-haunted ruin. Yonder is a blue peak ; around it the clouds roll and the mountain birds sail towards its in- accessible eyries. It is Beaupre. Beneath it, is the vShrine of Ste. Anne, the Mecca of so many pilgrims of our day. How attractive it looks with its gorgeous church, its sacred grotto, its "air of sanctity." There is a rough but sublime grandeur about the place. Nowhere else could we meet with a more variegated landscape, bluer hills, greener woods, neater cottages, brighter skies and purer waters than at Beaupre. But " time, tide " and steamboats wait for nobody, and we glide past this most fascinating resort. Still moving downward we pass Grosse Isle, I" one gazes upon that speck of green in the pur- ple scarf of the St. Lawrence, the memories of '47 and '48 arise. Over that .spot hung the scarlet bird of fever, and beneath the shadow of its wing thousands of emigrants perished. The ^ '- island, so far, is their only monument, but some day a cairn may rise over their commingled dust to mark how far they came from home to only find a grave. It is evening when we reach that beautiful summer resort Riviere du Loup, five miles from the famed watering place, Cacouna, the New- port of Canada. Across the river, twenty odd miles, we steer towards the little town of Tadousac, at the mouth of the Saguenay. It is an ancient village where stands the first church ever built in Canada. What weird memories and ghost- ly phantoms arise as one enters that little church, where the first grand prayers were offered up, and where the children of the "forest- primeval" first learned to chant those hymns wherewith David once made melody amongst the hills of Zion. At half-past eight we return to the steamer and she prepares to face the mysteries of the world- famed Saguenay. ON A COUNTKY ROAD. i ao The Richclit'u df Onlan'o Navii;;alion Company s We move slowly out from the wharf, round a cape and then enter, as it were, "the jaws of death." We fairly plunge into a cavern of darkness. The sound of the engine, the numherle.ss echoes on all sides, the awful height of the rocks, the very blackness ahead, all combine to render the first moments fearful. vSuddenly. where the rocks are farther apart, a flood of moonlight falls upon the waters ahead. Like a silver mirror set in a frame of ebony appears the brightness before us. Into it we plunge, dashing white spray on all sides and ploughing up brilliant waters. Again ahead the rocks seem to clo.se in and our ve.ssel appears to be running up against the mountain barrier. Hut no ; on we move and the steamer seems fol- lowed and surrounded bv a do/en other steamers. No pen can picture a moonlight trip on the Saguenay. We will leave it to the imagination of tho.se who ne'er enjoyed one, and to the memory of those who have taken the trip. But let us glance at the Saguenay in daytime. The touri.st may object and say that the weather is uncertain. Even .so ; whether it be gloomy or bright, a trip up to Saguenay, from Tadousac to Ha! Ha! Bay, is worth half a life-time of labor to secure and enjoy. One feels incapable of doin^ justice to the panorama of that river. It is easy to admire, to .stand in awe, to feel, as Arthur Buies says, "as bewildered as tho.se giant rocks when first they arose from the convulsions of the cataclysm in which they had birth ; " this is all easy, but to pen tho.se feelings language .seems inade- quate. Is it u; on a dark daj' that you ascend the Saguenay ? Then gloomy black clouds rest on the mountains and seem to double their height, pouring over the rugged cliffs in a stream of mi.st, till, lift- ing .suddenly with the hoarse gusts of wind, they allow short glimpses into what may be called the terrors of the Saguenay scen- ery. It is on such a day, above all others, that the .savage wildness and gloom of the extraordinary river are seen to best advantage. The tourist emerges from the darkness of long lengths of sombre moun- tain tunnels, and looks back upon them as great vaults, nature's sarcophagi, where life and sound, save the puff of the engine and the endless echoes, seem never to have entered. "Compared to the Saguenay, under these circumstances, the Dead Sea is blooming and the wildest ravines are smiling, It is wild without variety and grand in spite of itself." At two places, Ste. Marguerite, aud between Capes Trinity and Eternity, where small tributaries pour into the deep, dark stream, a breach occurs in 1 Souvenir of Canadian Scenery 91 the walls of rocks, as if some V J. McCONNIFF, IN THE OFFICE OF THE MlNKTEN Of AOOICULTURE, AT OTTAWA. — .iH. — 0E8BARAT8 A CO., ENGRAVERS AND PRINTFR6. /■■' i